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1 
 
A TREATISE ON WEAVING, 
 
 BY 
 
 HAND AND POWER LOOMS. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/practicaltreatisOOwhit_0 
 
A PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ON 
 
 WEAVING, 
 
 BY 
 
 HAND AND POWER LOOMS: 
 
 INTENDED AS A 
 
 TEXT BOOK 
 
 FOE 
 
 MANUFACTURERS by HAND and POWER LOOMS, 
 
 AND 
 
 POWER LOOM ENGINEERS; 
 
 AND ESPECIALLY DESIGNED TO FORWARD THE EXTENSION OF 
 MACHINERY TO ALL KINDS OF PLAIN WEAVING. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS 
 
 ILLUSTRATIVE ENGRAVINGS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 MACHINERY AND IMPLEMENTS AS THEY SHOULD BE USED IN WEAVING, 
 ACCORDING to the ACKNOWLEDGED PRINCIPLES of the ART. 
 
 BY 
 
 GEORGE WHITE. 
 
 GLASGOW : 
 JOHN NIVEN, 46 ARGYLL STREET. 
 
 LONDON: WHITTAKER & CO. 
 MANCHESTER : J. & J. THOMSON, MARKET STREET. 
 EDINBURGH : OLIVER & BOYD. NEW YORK : D. APPLETON & Co. 
 
 MDCCCXLVI. 
 
PRINTED BY JOHN NIVEN AND SON 
 GLASSFORD STREET. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Weaving, as an art, grew out of rude and simple 
 elements ; and although the means became more and 
 more complex as the art advanced to maturity, its cha- 
 racter was, nevertheless, homogeneous in the whole, 
 so long as it continued to be carried on by hand 
 agency. But when machinery was brought to bear 
 upon it, the agency became of a highly compound 
 character : — the art of weaving became allied with 
 engineering ; and the manufacturer by machinery, 
 therefore, was required to combine the knowledge 
 of the weaver with that of the engineer ; and, to 
 carry him successfully through the difficulties inci- 
 dent to all new applications of power, to be gifted 
 with ample mechanical resources. These are quali- 
 fications, however, which are rarely combined; and 
 indeed the necessary knowledge of the two arts is not 
 easily obtained, from the manner in which they exist 
 in relationship to each other. Weaving, as an art, 
 is nowhere brought within the reach of the engineer : 
 books do not even inform him what it is, and it is 
 rarely well exemplified by the weavers themselves. 
 The manufacturer has thus no available means of 
 enabling him to judge of the requirements of the 
 art, and supposing he had the advantage of a good 
 practical knowledge of weaving, which is more 
 than he can be expected to possess, machinery is a 
 widely different subject, and in advancing into it, 
 he can have little practical assistance from a party 
 who is ignorant of the common ground between 
 
Yi 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 them. A compromise is the only course that can 
 take place in these circumstances. The subject is 
 skirted ; — the manufacturer shrinks from the diffi- 
 culties which the engineer cannot meet, and the fa- 
 brics, therefore, which are attended with the least 
 difficulty in the weaving, are selected. Hence the 
 application of machinery to the finer and more diffi- 
 cult fabrics of weaving is retarded, from a want of 
 confidence, and apprehensiveness as to the result, 
 which is natural in these circumstances ; and thus a 
 great part of the subject remains unaffected by power. 
 
 This is the state in which the art of weaving still 
 exists with relation to machinery, and it is the object 
 of the following work to assist in the removal of 
 these unfavourable circumstances, for the purpose of 
 facilitating the extension of machinery to weaving 
 throughout : — 
 
 First, — By presenting to the engineer a clear 
 and distinct outline of the principles and best prac- 
 tice of the art, by which he must be guided in mak- 
 ing and applying his machinery as it ought to be to 
 weaving. 
 
 Secondly, — By presenting the art to the trade so 
 as to lead to the correction of bad and indifferent 
 practice in weaving, by which the success of the best 
 constructed machinery can be but partial. 
 
 Thirdly, — By presenting to the manufacturer and 
 the engineer, the best construction and adaptation of 
 machinery for effecting the required purpose in weav- 
 ing, in accordance with the acknowledged principles 
 of the art. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Preface, v 
 
 Introduction, xvii 
 
 WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 Plain Weaving— definition of, 17 
 
 Weaving by Darning — representation of — note on, - 18 
 Weaving perfected in principle by the invention of the 
 
 Heddles, - 20 
 
 Description and representation of the Heddles, - - 21 
 The origin of Heddles — unknown, - — 
 The primitive state of Weaving with Heddles in India- 
 representation of the Indian Loom — Note on Indian 
 
 Weaving, 23 
 
 The Motions included in Weaving or Shuttling, - 24 
 The manner of Weaving as commonly practised till the 
 
 year 1738, 26 
 
 Description of the Loom as commonly used till this pe- 
 riod, — representation of this Loom in two views — a 
 Section in page 22 — and a Plan in page 27 
 The arrangement of the Web in the Loom for Weaving : 
 Beaming — the Drawing of the Yarn through the Hed- 
 dles — the Reeding of the Web — representation of the 
 instruments for Heddling and Reeding — the Mounting 
 of the Heddles by the Roller — the tying up of the Web 
 — the attachment of the Treadles for Shedding with the 
 
 feet, 28 
 
 The manner of throwing the Hand Shuttle — representa- 
 tion of the Shuttle and Lathe as required for it, - 29 
 Description of the Hand Lathe — manner of working with 
 
 it, 30 
 
 Mode of Pacing the Web with the Bore Staff, — 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Great improvement in Weaving by the invention of the 
 Fly Shuttle in 1738 — Description of this improvement 
 as connected with the Lathe and the Shuttle, - - 31 
 Representation of the Fly Shuttle Lathe, page 31 — 
 of the Fly Shuttle and Drivers, page 32. 
 Manner of working with the Fly Shuttle — its advantages, 33 
 Improvement in Weaving by the substitution of the Fric- 
 tion Pace for the Bore Staff, - 34 
 Representation of the modern Hand Loom for fine 
 work, as including these improvements, in two 
 views — a transverse section taken immediately in 
 front of the Lathe, page 33 — and a lateral section 
 taken near the middle of the Loom, page 38. 
 State of the Yarn in the Loom as best fitted for Weav- 
 ing, — as to Dressing — as to its position in the Loom, 
 as avoiding strain in Weaving — and as affected by the 
 motions of Weaving, 35 
 The state of the Yarn as it comes from the Spinner — the 
 
 change intended to be effected on it by Dressing, - 36 
 The length of Stretch as suited to the Yarn in being 
 
 dressed in the Loom, - 37 
 The preparation of the Yarn for being Dressed, - — 
 
 The Material or Paste as used in Dressing, 38 
 The state of the Paste as fitted for use, - - - 39 
 Effects of defective Brushing — the make of the Brush as 
 
 fitted for acting on the Paste and the Yarn, - - 40 
 The proper mode of working the Brush, - - - 41 
 The drying of the Yarn and finishing the Dressing, - 43 
 Note — on the errors of popular writers with respect to 
 Weaving, and the effects of Dressing as to its being 
 supposed to produce Spangs on the cloth in the. process 
 of Bleaching, - -- -- -- - — 
 
 The position of the Yarn in the Loom as adapted for 
 
 Weaving, 46 
 
 As to its direction in the Loom, - - 49 
 
 As to Tension, ------- 50 
 
 As to length of Stretch — dependent on difference of 
 Fabric — in what difference of Fabric consists, - 51 
 
CONTENTS. IX 
 
 Page 
 
 Of the adaptation of the Loom and Implements to differ- 
 ent Fabrics in Weaving, ------ 55 
 
 Of the manner of performing the motions in Weaving 
 
 with the least strain on the Yarn, 57 
 
 Of Shedding, 58 
 
 Representation of the Shed at a good working angle 
 for fine Weaving, page 64. 
 
 Of the make of the Heddles as suitable for fine Weaving, 61 
 
 Of the Draught of the Heddles, - 62 
 Of the Mounting of the Heddles by Jacks, as suitable 
 for fine Weaving, - -- -- --64 
 
 Plan of the Jacks, page 65. 
 
 Of the adjustment of the Heddles, ... 66 
 
 Of the proper distance of the Heddles from the Slabstock, 67 
 
 Of the proper distance of the Rods from the Heddles, - 69 
 
 Of the make of the Lathe as adapted for Weaving, - ■ — 
 
 Of the adaptation of the Lathe to different Fabrics, - 72 
 Of the position of the Lathe in the Loom as adapted for 
 
 Weaving, - 73 
 
 Of the adaptation of the Lathe to the Shuttle, - - 74 
 
 Of the Shuttle as made for keeping the Race, - 75 
 Of the position of the Weaver on the Loom as best suited 
 
 for action in Weaving, 76 
 
 Of the proper motion of the Lathe — illustrated by Fig. 30th, 78 
 
 Of the conjoint performance of the motions in Weaving, 
 — the great rule as regulating the throwing of the 
 
 Shuttle, 80 
 
 Of the Selvage as affected by the throwing of the Shuttle, 
 — of the use of the Temples on the Selvage, — of the 
 Cord as affecting the Selvage, ----- — 
 Of the Winding of the Pirns as affecting the Selvage — 
 description of the operation of Pirn Winding, - - 82 
 Illustration of Winding, page 81. 
 Of Weaving as depending on Art, - — 
 Of the velocity at which the Loom may be worked, - 83 
 Of the Lathe as adapted to speed in Weaving, - - 
 Of the mode of working with it as adapted to different 
 Fabrics, - - - - 84 
 
 A 
 
X 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Of the peculiarities in Weaving different Fabrics, - 86 
 
 WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 Invention of the Power Loom by Dr. Cartwright, 92 
 Its improvement by Messrs. Grimshaw, - 97 
 The invention of the Power Loom in Scotland by Dr. 
 
 Jeffray, 98 
 
 The great defect of both Power Looms remedied by the 
 
 invention of the Protector — the Protector patented by 
 
 Mr MiUer, 99 
 
 The origin of the Wiper Loom, and the establishment of 
 
 Power Loom Weaving in Scotland, - - - - 100 
 Of the Crank Loom in England, - — 
 Description of the Wiper Loom, - - - - - 106 
 Representation of the Wiper Loom — Front view, 
 page 105 — End elevation, page 110. 
 Of the conjoint performance of the motions of weaving 
 
 by the Power Loom, 116 
 
 Of the action of the Protector as connected with the mo- 
 tion of the Loom, - - - - - 117 
 Of the speed of the Loom, and manner of calculating it, 118 
 Disadvantage attending the construction of the Wiper 
 
 Loom, 119 
 
 The Wiper Loom supplanted by the Crank Loom, - 120 
 Fig. 43rd, illustrative of the construction of the Crank 
 Loom, page 120— Plates V. VI. VII. and VIII. 
 present different views of this Loom. 
 
 Description of the Crank Loom, 121 
 
 Note — on faults in Weaving, - - - - i - 122 
 Weaving by Power defective for want of Machinery to 
 
 Dress the Yarn by Power, - - - - - 124 
 The circumstances which gave rise to the invention of a 
 
 Dressing Machine, 126 
 
 Mr Radcliffe's efforts to supply the defect, - 127 
 Engages Mr Johnson for that purpose — the invention of 
 
 the Dandy Loom by Mr Johnson, - - - - 128 
 Illustration of the Dandy Loom, page 122. 
 The Invention of the Cylinder Dressing Machine by Mr 
 
 Johnson, 129 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 The Invention of the Crank Dressing Machine T)y Mr 
 Johnson, ------- 130 
 
 Illustration of the Crank Dressing Machine, page 131. 
 Plates II. III. and IV. present three views of the 
 Machine. 
 
 Description of the Crank Dressing Machine, - - - 131 
 
 Its defects, 141 
 
 Its improvement by Mr Buchanan, - - - 143 
 The difficulties experienced by Mr RadclifFe in applying 
 
 the Dressing Machine to practice, - - - - 144 
 The state of the Yarn as fitted for receiving the Dressing, 146 
 Note — on the technical meaning of the words, warp, 
 web, and chain, - — 
 
 The Starching of the Yarn, 147 
 
 Origin of the idea of Sizing as a substitute for Dressing, 148 
 Description of the process of Sizing, - 150 
 Illustrated by Plate XI. — descriptive reference in 
 the Index to the Plates, page 349. 
 Size-making as adapted for the Sizing Machine, page 349. 
 The Invention of the Tape Sizing Machine, - - 152 
 Illustrated by Plate XII. — descriptive reference in 
 the Index to the Plates, page 351. 
 The state of the Power Loom considered as adapted to 
 Weaving, - 153 
 As to the motions of the Loom, - • - - 154 
 
 As to the Protector, 155 
 
 As to the Lathe as fitted for its work, — as to mechan- 
 ism, page 156 — as to motion, - - - 158 
 As to the Heddles as connected with the motion of 
 
 the Lathe, 162 
 
 As to the motion of the Heddles, - - - 163 
 As to Picking, ------- 165 
 
 As to the make of the Loom as best fitted to with- 
 stand the reaction of the motions, - - - 170 
 Of the movement of the Cloth Beam, - - - 176 
 Of the completion of the motions of Weaving by Ma- 
 chinery, — invention and description of the Weft Shot 
 Protector, - 178 
 
xii 
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 Page 
 
 Pacing of the Web by Machinery, 
 
 - 182 
 
 Mr Stone's Letting-off Motion, - 183 
 
 Representation of Mr Stone's Loom, Plate XIV. 
 The invention not an improvement in common Weaving, 187 
 Of Temples as Self-acting, - - - - - 188 
 Of the three sorts of Self-acting Temples, — the Nipper — 
 the Rotatory — and the Roller, - - - - 189 
 Representation of these Temples in Plate XV. 
 Of the duties of the Weaver in attendance on the Loom, 197 
 Summary of the principles involved in the construction of 
 the Loom, as adapted for Weaving, - - - 198 
 As applied to Calicoes, - 202 
 As applied to Linen and Woollen, - - - 207 
 
 Of Check Weaving, 208 
 
 The Drop and Swing Boxes, ...... 209 
 
 The Invention of Check Weaving by Power, by Dr Cart- 
 wright, - - - - - - - -211 
 
 Check Weaving, by the Author, - - - •• 214 
 Description of the Author's Check Power Loom, - - 215 
 Illustrated in Plate XIII. — descriptive reference in 
 Index to the Plates, page 354. 
 
 Of Sail-cloth Weaving, 220 
 
 Description of the Author's Power Loom for Sail-cloth 
 
 Weaving, 222 
 
 Illustrated in Plate XVI. — descriptive reference in 
 Index to the Plates, page 358. 
 Of Fine Weaving, ... . - - 224 
 
 Description of the Author's Power Loom for Fine Weaving, 227 
 Illustrated in Plates IX. and X. — descriptive refer- 
 ence in the Index to the Plates, page 345. 
 Of the Loom as adapted for Fine Weaving, - - 230 
 Of the state of Fine Yarn in the Loom as fitted for 
 
 Weaving, - 233 
 
 Of the Dressing of the Yarn as fitted for Fine Weaving, 234 
 Of the action of the Machine as necessary to dress Fine 
 
 Yarn, 
 
 Modification of the Crank action of the Brush, - 
 Illustrated by Fig. 46th. 
 
 235 
 240 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Xlll 
 
 Page 
 
 Description of the Author's Dressing Machine for Fine 
 
 Yarn, - 241 
 
 Illustrated in Plates XVII. and XVIII. — descrip- 
 tive reference in Index to the Plates, page 361. 
 Note — on Flour as suited as to its chemical qualities for 
 
 making Dressing, 253 
 
 Of the kind of Housing as fitted for Weaving, - - 265 
 
 Of the arrangement of the Looms in the Factory, - 266 
 Plan of the Factory in Plate I. and the supple- 
 mentary Plates XIX. and XX. 
 
 Of the Shafting of the Factory, 271 
 
 Of the Cost of the Factory, ------ 
 
 The Selection of the Yarn, - - - - - - 273 
 
 The Sizing of the Yarn, 275 
 
 The Reel for Cotton Yarn, ------ — 
 
 The Reel for Linen Yarn, 276 
 
 The Reel for Woollen Yarn, — 
 
 Of the Scale to which the Reeds are made, according to 
 
 the Scotch and English Counts, - - - - — 
 
 Caaming, - - - - - - - 278 
 
 Of the construction of Tables for Caaming, - 281 
 
 Calculations connected with the work, - - - 289 
 
 Of calculations for Warps, - - - — 
 
 Warp Tables, 293 
 
 Of calculations for Weft, 304 
 
 Weft Tables, 305 
 
 Lists of Prices of Cotton and Linen Yarns, •• - 315 
 
 Warping for Hand Loom Work, - - - - - 320 
 Fig. 47th, Warping Mill, page 320. 
 
 Description of the operation of Warping, - - 321 
 
 Beaming — description of the operation of Beaming, 327 
 
 Of Machine Warping, 328 
 
 Of the Management of the Hands, - 329 
 
 Descriptive Index to the Plates, - 334 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 WOOD ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 Page 
 
 . 1, Weaving by Darning, - - - - 18 
 
 2, Single Heddle— Fig. 3, Single Leaf, - - 21 
 
 4, Lateral Section of the Old Hand Loom, - - 22 
 
 5, Indian Loom, ------ 23 
 
 6, Reed, 26 
 
 7, Heddle Hook— Fig. 8, Reed Hook, - - — 
 9, Section of Plan of the Old Hand Loom, - - 27 
 
 10, Hand Shuttle, 29 
 
 11, Hand Shuttle Lathe, — 
 
 12, Front View of Fly Shuttle Lathe, - - 31 
 
 13, Section of Plan of do. do. - - - — 
 
 14, 15, 16, 17, different forms of Drivers, - - 32 
 
 18, Fly Shuttle, - - - - - — 
 
 19, Transverse Section of the Modern Hand Loom, 33 
 
 20, Lateral Section of do. do. - 38 
 
 21, Fan, - - - - - - - - 43 
 
 22, Iron Loom, 56 
 
 23, Draught in Heddles, 62 
 
 24, Clasped Heddle, - - 63 
 
 25, View of the Shed at a good working angle for 
 
 Fine Weaving, ------ 64 
 
 26, Plan of Jacks, ------ 65 
 
 27, 28, 29, Single and Double Flyers, - 71 
 
 30, Illustrative of the Motion of the Lathe, - 78 
 
 31, Temples, - - - - - - - 80 
 
 32, Wheel and Whisks, 81 
 
 33, Shuttle for heavy work, ----- 88 
 
 34, Modification of the Bore Staff as applicable to 
 
 heavy and rigid work, - - - - - 89 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. XV 
 
 Page 
 
 Fig. 35, Protector, - - - - • - - - 103 
 
 — 36, Front View of the Old Wiper Loom, - - 105 
 
 — 37, 38, 39, Pulley and Shaft of do. - - 107 
 
 — 40, Illustrative of the action of the Protector, - 108 
 
 — 41, End View of the Old Wiper Loom, - - - 110 
 
 — 42, Mounting of the Picking Pin, - - - 113 
 
 — 43, Section of Moving Parts of the Crank Power 
 
 Loom, 120 
 
 — 44, Dandy Loom, 122 
 
 — 45, Side View of Dressing Machine, without the 
 
 Framing, - - 131 
 
 — 46, The action of Levers as exemplifying the stroking 
 
 motion of the Brush in the Crank Dressing 
 
 Machine, 220 
 
 — 47, Warping Mill, 320 
 
 PLATES. 
 
 I. Plan of a Weaving Factory. 
 
 II. III. IV. Crank Dressing Machine. 
 
 V. VI. VII. VIII. Power Loom, for Heavy Domestics. 
 IX. X. Power Loom for Muslins, by the Author. 
 XI. Sizing Apparatus. 
 
 XII. Messrs. Hornby & Kenworthy's Tape Sizing Machine. 
 
 XIII. Power Loom for Check Weaving, by the Author. 
 
 XIV. Mr Stone's Loom, and Weft Shot Protector. 
 XV. Self-acting Temples. 
 
 XVI. Vertical Power Loom for Sail-cloth, &c. by the Author. 
 XVII. XVIII. Dressing Machine for Fine Yarn, by the 
 Author. 
 
 XIX. XX. Supplementary to the Plan, Plate I. 
 
ERRATA. 
 
 Page 133, line 14 from bottom, for Plate IV. read Plate III. 
 133, line 6 from bottom, for u' read a'. 
 136, line 13 from top, for r' r' read Tc' k'. 
 136, line 15 from top, for Plate IV. read Plate II. 
 164, line 5 from bottom, for h read f". 
 166, line 1, for Fig. 4th read Fig. 5th. 
 
 168, line 8 from bottom, read " Fig. 1st, Plate VIII. and transverse 
 section of the Power Loom, Fig. 1st, Plate VII. effects," &c, 
 
 178, line 13 from bottom, for Fig. 1st read Fig. 2nd. 
 
 179, line 17 from bottom, for Fig. 2nd read Fig. 5th. 
 
 179, line 11 from bottom, for Fig. 2nd read Fig. 5th. 
 
 180, line 16 from bottom, for Fig. 3rd read Fig. 6th. 
 
I 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The progress of civilization is attended with great 
 changes, both in the mode and the means, for effect- 
 ing a supply of the necessaries and luxuries of life, 
 dependent chiefly on the development of chemistry 
 and mechanics. These two agencies, as affecting 
 production, are of recent origin ; and present us 
 with a world of new means, by which the old agency 
 of animal power is being relieved from drudgery, to 
 assist in originating and superintending the new. 
 
 Mechanics, as applied to manufactures, led the 
 way ; and with a success so pre-eminent, as adapted 
 to spinning by Arkwright, that we had previously 
 no idea of a production so enormous by any agency. 
 This department, therefore, became quickly occu- 
 pied ; and, whilst machinery was branching out in 
 numberless new directions over the industrial field, 
 in this it was brought so quickly to maturity, that 
 its growth and development were regarded as tests 
 by which its progress was to be estimated in other 
 directions. 
 
 The importance of machinery was thus appreci- 
 ated from the first, and its application to Weaving 
 
xviii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 was expected to be attended with the same imme- 
 diate and triumphant results. But as this was far 
 from being the case, it countenanced the idea — 
 which is not yet exploded — that the subject was 
 unsuitable to the agency. This notion respecting 
 the unfitness of machinery arises from overlooking 
 the distinction between the production of motion 
 and the adaptation of motion — so that errors origi- 
 nating in the application of the means, are regarded 
 as inherent defects in the agency. 
 
 Weaving, comprehensively considered, however, 
 is a difficult subject for machinery. The motions 
 themselves are reciprocating — a kind of motion not 
 easily produced without some injurious disturbance, 
 from the reaction arising from the irregularity of 
 the resistance. The yarn, therefore, may be broken 
 inweaving from the motions, according to the manner 
 in which they are performed ; and both breakage 
 and bad work may result from inadaptation of the 
 tools. 
 
 In spinning again, almost the whole of the beauti- 
 fully wrought out agency is the expression of two 
 ideas — namely, draught, admirably brought out by 
 fluted rollers, and twist, on the fibres forming the 
 threads, in the direction of their axes. The motions 
 in spinning are, therefore, rotatory, and free from 
 the disturbing influences attending the application of 
 motion to weaving. Hence the strain on the yarn in 
 weaving is relatively great; and, accordingly, whilst 
 machinery has done almost all that can be expected 
 from it, at least all at present required of it, in cotton 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xix 
 
 spinning, — in weaving, although the power loom 
 has been more than fifty years in use, from the time 
 of its being invented by Doctors Cartwright and 
 Jeffray, it has as yet established its influence over 
 those fabrics only in which breakage is not to be 
 apprehended from the performance of the motions. 
 The finer departments of goods, which require nice 
 adaptation in the means, have hitherto been unap- 
 proachable by it — so great is the difference between 
 the motions as performed in weaving, and the mo- 
 tions as adapted to the weaving. For although cloth 
 may be made by both modes of working, the one 
 effects its object in dependence on the absolute 
 strength of the yarn ; whereas, by the other, the 
 yarn is subjected to the least possible strain in weav- 
 ing. This adaptation is, therefore, the expression 
 of the art of weaving, by which the motions are 
 adapted to the yarn, and the tools to both. 
 
 The Power Loom, from the first, has been chiefly 
 in the hands of those who by circumstances were 
 necessarily little acquainted with weaving as an art. 
 Weavers, in general, who have the greatest know- 
 ledge of weaving, have the least acquaintance with 
 machinery ; and engineers and mechanics, to whom 
 the superintendence of weaving by power properly 
 belongs, are necessarily ignorant of weaving. There 
 is thus a want of communication between them, by 
 which the progress of power loom machinery has 
 been very much retarded ; and hence a general 
 coarseness of expression characterizes all this sort 
 of agency as applied to weaving. 
 
XX 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 No attempt has been made in books to communi- 
 cate this art. Treatises on weaving have, hitherto, 
 confined themselves to the description of the cord- 
 ings for the formation of figures, in fancy weaving, 
 and tweelings ; or calculations connected with the 
 warp. The art of managing the yarn in the loom 
 has been left in the hands of the weavers, untouched 
 by them. 
 
 But although the art is to be found among the 
 weavers only, it is very rarely to be met with among 
 them in a state properly or fully exemplified. There 
 is generally so much of a rude and indistinct ex- 
 pression given to the art in their practice, as scarcely 
 to preserve the lineaments of the system, so that a 
 considerable knowledge of weaving is necessary to 
 trace it properly, as even presented by them. 
 
 The subject is, therefore, inaccessible to the engi- 
 neer, and the manufacturer by power looms has no 
 sufficient assistance of which he can avail himself. 
 The method of working out his object by experi- 
 ment is uncertain, expensive, and too slow for his 
 immediate purpose. He therefore follows the track 
 as it has been opened up, and is followed by others; 
 and as the knowledge by which they are led is 
 chiefly borrowed, it is of little use, (even supposing 
 it were the result of experience obtained in this se- 
 cond-hand manner,) out of the direction from which 
 it was taken. 
 
 Hence weaving by power has, almost from neces- 
 sity, been confined to coarse and heavy fabrics; and 
 the adaptation of the loom even to these, has but 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xxi 
 
 lately begun to assume a general character of fit- 
 ness. At first, the arrangements as used in weaving 
 by the hand loom were closely imitated, and with 
 little success, as the difference in the agency, as in- 
 fluenced by power, was not sufficiently understood. 
 This result, however, gave rise to the reaction in 
 opinion, which is at present so frequently met with, — 
 that they are guided by dissimilar principles. But 
 this opinion arises from attending to the dissimilarity 
 only, as presented in the means, and not to the prin- 
 ciples as affecting both. 
 
 In hand weaving the weaver is the machine on 
 which the power acts by will at various points on 
 the apparatus, for effecting his purpose. This is 
 done by motion adapted to the work, which is 
 learned by practice, and tools adapted to both by 
 experience. These two conjunctions in art must 
 be present to ensure success, in a high degree, to 
 weaving by either mode. 
 
 But as the power loom springs from the hand 
 loom, and is indeed merely the completion of the 
 combination of motions as begun bythe use of levers 
 — as treadles, and the invention of the fly shuttle, 
 the same general principles of weaving are applica- 
 ble to both. The power loom, accordingly, may be 
 so far complete as to motion, and yet inapplicable to 
 the work from a want of adaptation. The motions 
 of weaving are necessary to the loom in any kind of 
 work, to weave at all ; and the adaptation of both 
 the motions and the machinery is necessary to weav- 
 ing, treated as an art. The adaptation of the loom 
 
xxii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 is thus the completion of the machinery as applied 
 to weaving, and requires both a sufficient power in 
 dealing with the capabilities of machinery for the 
 purpose, and a sufficient knowledge of the art of 
 weaving to apply the machinery in accordance with 
 it. This conjunction of machinery with art has 
 never been sufficiently attended to in weaving by 
 power ; or, rather, the means have been supposed 
 to be incompatible with it ; and, accordingly, weav- 
 ing by machinery has been confined to work which 
 requires the least art in the adaptation of the means; 
 and hence, from the difficulty of combining a suffi- 
 cient knowledge of both weaving and machinery, 
 the power loom is still inapplicable to fabrics in 
 which the greatest adaptation is necessary. Fine 
 muslins, for example, in its present state, are be- 
 yond its reach ; and little has been done with it in 
 the weaving of checks. In the linen manufacture, 
 although it is in use, its success has been much more 
 limited than in the cotton trade ; and in the silk, it 
 is perhaps still more so, although it is not less 
 adapted to it. The woollen trade is a more extensive 
 branch of our manufacture than either of the pre- 
 vious two, — employing probably about 50,000 hand 
 looms, and the proportion of the power looms may 
 be about 1 0 per cent. 
 
 Much, therefore, remains to be done with the 
 power loom ; and as the art of weaving, by which it 
 must be directed, is best exemplified in connexion 
 with the development of the means, I have endea- 
 voured in this work to trace the progress of weaving 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xxiii 
 
 from its commencement, for the purpose of pointing 
 out the agency in its simplest state, and the improve- 
 ments and modifications made in it, to adapt it to 
 the various fabrics which come under the denomin- 
 ation of plain weaving. This forms the subject of 
 the present volume ; and as the great design of the 
 work is to forward improvements in the manufac- 
 turing of cloth by machinery, the line in the order 
 of their proceeding from hand to power is thus pre- 
 served, and, it is hoped, presented sufficiently clearly 
 to enable the engineer, and the manufacturer by 
 power looms, to see what is required in adapting this 
 machinery to the various fabrics to which it is at 
 present applied, as well as to those fabrics to which, 
 as yet, it has made no successful approach. The art 
 of weaving is therefore treated on common princi- 
 ples, and in detail, as applicable to the various 
 fabrics made of the usual materials as worked in the 
 loom; and with the view of facilitating the extension 
 of machinery to the subject, the author has presented 
 drawings of his power loom for fine goods, and like- 
 wise of his dressing machine to act in conjunction 
 with it. These two machines are fitted, it is hoped, 
 to bring the muslin trade within their influence ; 
 and his loom for weaving checks will, it is presumed, 
 do what the trade requires of it. 
 
 The loom for fine goods is worked by springs ; and 
 that which he has presented as adapted to sail-cloth, 
 is constructed on the vertical principle of weaving, 
 with the lathe horizontally placed, so as to strike 
 the fell in a manner similar to the tilt hammer. 
 
xxiv 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Three kinds of looms are thus recognised as neces- 
 sary to bring all the fabrics of weaving successfully 
 under machinery first, The common power loom, 
 for the fabrics to which it is at present applied: 
 secondly, The vertical loom, to the coarsest textures 
 made of the most rigid fibres ; and thirdly, The 
 spring loom, to the finest and most elastic, — as mus- 
 lins, &c. 
 
 Thus plain weaving by machinery will be com- 
 pleted ; and fancy weaving considered with reference 
 to power, will form the subject of a second volume. 
 
 As the hand loom is likely to continue in use for 
 two or three ages, the usual tables are subjoined, 
 which may still be useful in manufacturing by it. 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ON 
 
 WEAVING. 
 
 ■ ♦ 
 
 Plain weaving consists in the interlacing together 
 of two lines of threads at right angles to each other. 
 The long threads running from end to end of the piece 
 are called the Warp; and the cross ones from selvage 
 to selvage, or from side to side, the Weft. The in- 
 terlacing of the warp with the weft by picking up 
 each individual thread with some instrument, such 
 as a needle, on which the weft may be wound, as 
 represented in Fig. 1st, is darning, which is merely 
 weaving in its first stage, and is the state in which 
 weaving exists among all barbarous nations. 
 
 2. Any art in this state of society, is necessarily 
 carried on by tedious methods with rude tools ; and 
 
 B 
 
ll " PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 in weaving by darning, the production is so dis- 
 proportionate to the time employed in it 3 that the 
 
 Fig. 1. Loom of the Middle Ages. 
 
 The figure introduced above as illustrative of weaving by 
 darning, is taken from a copy as presented by Mr Baines in his 
 History of the Cotton Manufacture, from Montfoucon's Antiquity 
 Explained. It is a representation of European weaving as it 
 may be supposed to have been practiced in the 3d or 4th cen- 
 tury, on the authority of some illuminated designs in old books, 
 which are regarded by Montfoucon as belonging to that period. 
 
 The figure represented in the act of weaving is a woman stand- 
 ing in front of the frame, which consists of two upright posts 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 19 
 
 attention could not be long directed to it without 
 perceiving that the process was capable of great im- 
 provement. 
 
 3. Accordingly we find that society had not ad- 
 vanced even into the semi-barbarous state, before 
 it was discovered that by attaching a tool to a certain 
 quantity of the warp, that portion of it could be in- 
 stantaneously raised to open a passage through the 
 yarn for the introduction of the needle, or shuttle, 
 and thus the weft shot could be thrown across the 
 
 connected together by a transverse one at the top and the bottom. 
 
 The web is extended in a vertical position ; the upper end of 
 it being attached to a transverse rod at the top, and the other 
 end to a rod similarly placed below at the middle of the frame. 
 
 But it will be seen that there are several rods here ; and about 
 this part of the frame, and the tackling represented below as 
 treadles, there is considerable doubt as to the manner in which 
 they effect their purpose. 
 
 Mr Baines speaks of the loom as distinguished by little pecu- 
 liarity, or as similarly constructed to the common hand loom. 
 But if there is any thing more clear than another about it, it 
 is the dissimilarity as contradistinguishing the two frames, ap- 
 parent even at first sight, and this impression is not diminished 
 by an attentive examination of it. 
 
 European weaving at the time to which we refer, and long 
 afterwards, was a domestic employment carried on chiefly by 
 women ; and as the fabrics were designed for their own circle, 
 and frequently for their own personal ornament, the loom con- 
 trived for the purpose was rudely made, as might be expected, 
 and intended both for plain and fancy work, according to their 
 notion of the art of weaving ; as figures in the cloth were effec- 
 ted rather by the needle than the shuttle. 
 
 The art, accordingly, was in that transitory state between 
 darning and the use of some sort of means for shedding the web 
 
20 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 whole web as soon as one thread of the warp could 
 be picked up in the process of weaving by darning. 
 
 4. This shedding tool is called the Heddles, or 
 Healds, and consists of at least two pieces, or leaves, 
 containing together as many heddles as there are 
 threads in the warp. Fig. 2d. is a representation of 
 an individual heddle, with the thread drawn through 
 its eye ; and the range of these, as seen in Fig. 3d, 
 connected together and extended on two thin rods, 
 
 with treadles, as the representation above evidently indicates. 
 
 The loom seems likewise to be designed for two persons to 
 work at it, on different pieces, or on the same piece as might 
 be required, on opposite sides of the frame ; otherwise there seems 
 to be no use in representing a pair of treadles on each side of 
 the loom. If the treadles are brought to act on the web here, 
 it follows that the rods are used for the purpose of deflecting 
 the warp, and that the manner in which the treadles act in shed- 
 ding it, is by a sort of heddles, not represented, but acted upon, 
 by what seems to be, or may be, something like rectangular 
 levers put there for that purpose. 
 
 The drawing is doubtless not a correct representation of the 
 art which it endeavours to portray, or it is an imperfect one. 
 
 If the view of the matter which is here represented be correct, 
 the web will be drawn from the rod or roller above, as it is 
 wrought, and there seems to be some sort of leverage on the 
 end of it for that purpose ; but it does not seem to be wound on 
 any roller below, as the end of it appears to be hanging loose. 
 
 The figure is not represented as using the treadles, but in 
 the act of picking up the warp with a spindle in the right hand, 
 which is probably likewise used for squeezing up the shot. 
 The shuttle is in the left hand. But it is not unlikely that 
 this mode of weaving may have been used in conjunction with the 
 treadles for forming a figure on the cloth, and in that case, the 
 pattern may have been drawn from the cross cords at the top of the 
 framing, which do not seem to be there for any other purpose. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 21 
 
 or shafts, a «, is a leaf. The two leaves D 
 D, making, in this case, a set, are represented 
 in a working state as seen in an end view, in 
 Fig. 4th, having one half of the warp through 
 the fore leaf, and the other through the back 
 leaf ; one thread being taken through each 
 heddle of the back and fore leaves alter- 
 nately; so that by raising either of the 
 leaves, an accurate division of the warp, 
 
 Fig. 3. Single Leaf. Heddle. 
 
 with one thread up and one down all over, is instan- 
 taneously formed. 
 
 5. This beautiful method of shedding the web 
 with heddles, therefore, effects an immense saving 
 of time in the process of weaving ; and is so great an 
 improvement, that it perfects the principle on which 
 weaving is to be carried on, and renders all further 
 improvement applicable only to the manner in which 
 the motions of weaving are to be performed, or to 
 the instruments for effecting the motions. 
 
 6. This method of shedding the web was in use 
 among all the semi-barbarous nations of antiquity, 
 before any record was preserved of their transact- 
 ions; and when, or where, this great improvement 
 was first invented, is therefore unknown. Weaving 
 with heddles was so generally in use among the 
 
22 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 Chinese, Indians, and Egyptians, at a very remote 
 period, that no special notice is taken of it by the 
 
 o 
 
 Fig. 4. Lateral Section of the Old Hand Loom. 
 
 oldest writers. Indeed, it is rather from incidental 
 notices of the subject, and representations of the 
 Arts in old prints and hieroglyphics, that we have 
 some distinct notion of the state of weaving among 
 the ancients. 
 
 7* Fig. 5th is a representation of an Indian 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 Loom,* as it now is, and as it was, thirty centuries 
 ago ; from which it is quite apparent, that little or no 
 further improvement of it was made among those 
 nations that were formerly so celebrated for their 
 skill in manufactures, from a period long before our 
 acquaintance with them commences, to the present 
 day. 
 
 Fig. 5. Indian Loom. 
 
 * Among the many passing notices which are frequently met 
 with in books of travel, and in popular works on the state of 
 weaving in the East Indies, there is none that conveys such a 
 notion of it, as a person practically acquainted with the sub- 
 ject can say what really is the state of the art, as it exists among 
 them. A rough outline of the mechanical means is given, bui 
 the points of value as determining the question are wholly lost 
 
24 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 8. Weaving as carried on by this almost univer- 
 sal method, consists in the performance of three 
 motions in succession, and these are : — 
 
 First, — The shedding of the web, for the intro- 
 duction of the shuttle with the weft shot. 
 
 Second, — The throwing of the shuttle through 
 the shed. 
 
 Third, — The striking home of the shot. 
 
 sight of ; namely, the adaptation of the tools to the varieties of 
 work, and the skill as manifested by them in the management 
 of the yarn. 
 
 It is true that a certain lauding style has long been fashion- 
 able in speaking of Indian weaving ; and the weaver is represented 
 as being fitted with an organization peculiarly adapted for his 
 work. This sort of testimony, however, is nothing to the point 
 in question, and indeed, in any case, is valueless, from the in- 
 competency of the parties to give an opinion on the subject. 
 
 The points in question can be known and estimated aright 
 only by those who are thoroughly acquainted with weaving. 
 Travellers, and mere bookmakers, cannot be expected to possess 
 such a knowledge ; and hence the state of the means by which 
 the art is properly exemplified, as used for fine or coarse work, 
 such as the size of the shuttle — the build of the heddles — the 
 depth of the shed — the tension of the web — the length of the 
 stretch — the state of the paste, and manner of using it in the 
 process of dressing, are nowhere noticed, so far as I have seen, as 
 of any specific value in weaving ; so that we can have no idea, 
 relatively, of the quantity of work so far as labour is considered, 
 which an Indian weaver may be able to turn out, compared with 
 an English one. The tools, doubtless, are in a primitive state, 
 but such a condition is by no means incompatible with some 
 degree of skill in the management of the yarn, although it is 
 unavoidably attended with the use of expedients in weaving by 
 which time is lost, and thus the quantity of the work is diminished, 
 and its quality impaired, notwithstanding every care that can 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 25 
 
 9. The manner in which these motions are per- 
 formed varies in different countries, according to the 
 advancement of the art, or the skill of the weaver. 
 But as his object in all the arrangements which he 
 may make for so doing, is to be enabled thereby to 
 obtain the greatest speed in weaving with the most 
 
 be taken with it in the weaving. The web is woven, as repre- 
 sented in the above sketch, which is a common print illustrative 
 of Indian weaving, very near the ground, and in that respect, 
 the yarn is placed where it is most easily kept in a proper state 
 for weaving, a circumstance of great importance to the work in 
 a country so warm as India. 
 
 The weaver, accordingly, that he may get sitting at his work' 
 digs a hole or ditch, in the ground, immediately under the place 
 where he extends his web. Having suspended the heddles from 
 jacks above, he attaches the leaf of each shed to the respective 
 great toe of each of his feet ; or, in some cases, he uses treadles 
 in a rude manner, with the one end resting on the ground, and 
 the other suspended to the heddle cords in place of his toes, on 
 which his feet rest in weaving. 
 
 The lathe, or rather the reed, is suspended by a cord at each - 
 end to the upper framing of the shed in which he works, or, in 
 case it be in the open air, to the branch of some tree which has 
 been selected on account of its fitness for that purpose. 
 
 The shuttle is, in some cases, long, so as to extend from side 
 to side of the web, and is used in that case, for squeezing up the 
 shot to the fell, as well as for introducing it into the shed ; in 
 other cases it is short, like the old hand shuttle, and is thrown 
 in a similar manner. 
 
 The paste for dressing is stated by some to be made of rice, 
 by boiling it in a little water and using the decoction without 
 the grains ; and, according to others, as seen in Mr Baines 
 History of the Cotton Manufacture, the dressing is made from 
 a root called Kandri, which yields, by preparation, a starchy 
 matter, used by the weavers of Bengal for that purpose. 
 
26 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ease, that method is adopted which he thinks will 
 best enable him to effect his purpose. 
 
 10. Accordingly, as it would be inconvenient to 
 have the warp for a long piece stretched out at its 
 full length, the weaver invariably has it wound on a 
 roller, or beam, which he puts in a frame to pre- 
 serve the uniformity of its tension in weaving; hav- 
 ing previously drawn the yarn through the heddles, 
 and what is called the reed, represented in Fig. 6th. 
 
 Fig. G. Rood, 
 
 This frame is called the loom, of which Fig. 4th is 
 a lateral section. A A is the frame ; B, the yarn 
 beam ; C, the warp line : and a section of the plan 
 is seen in Fig. 9th, in which the corresponding parts 
 are referred to by the same letters. 
 
 Fig. 7. Heddlc Hook, and 
 
 Fig. 8. Reod Hook, half tlio usual size. 
 
 11. The two operations of heddling and reeding 
 are performed separately with athin hook, which, for 
 the heddles, is such as that represented in Fig. 7th, in 
 this manner. The weaver hangs the heddles imme- 
 diately in front of the yarn beam, and commences the 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. #7 
 
 operation on the right hand side, by taking the first 
 heddle on the back leaf, into the eye of which he 
 
 Fig. 9. Section of Plan of the Old Hand Loom, taken im- 
 mediately above the Heddles. 
 
 puts the hook, when an assistant immediately places 
 in its bight the first thread of the selvage, which the 
 weaver pulls through, and then another heddle, the 
 first on the fore leaf, is taken in like manner, and so 
 on alternately, till all the yarn is drawn through. 
 
 12. The reeding of the web is more quickly per- 
 formed than the heddling, inasmuch as two threads, 
 the one from the fore leaf and the other from the 
 back leaf, are taken together with a similar instru- 
 
28 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 merit, (represented in Fig. 8th,) through hefcween 
 each split or dent of the reed in succession, till the 
 whole of the warp is reeded. The ends of the 
 threads thus drawn through, are then neatly and 
 evenly fastened to the cloth beam E in front of the 
 loom, as seen in Fig. 9th, by being attached to a rod /, 
 which is connected by the cords k k k to the groove 
 y, in the beam for that purpose; and the web, which 
 is tightened by what is technically called the bore- 
 staff, F, is then in a fit state to be mounted, 
 that is, to have those appliances put up and adjusted, 
 with which the weaver performs the motions of 
 weaving. 
 
 13. The heddles are the first of these, and are 
 mounted in such a manner, that either the back or 
 fore leaf may be instantly raised with an alternate 
 motion perpendicular to the yarn. 
 
 14. This is frequently done, as represented in 
 Fig. 4th, by suspending them from a roller H, 
 attached to the bearer J, the back and fore leaves 
 being on its opposite sides ; and as the heddles are 
 worked by the weaver's feet, he places for that pur- 
 pose two levers, called treadles, G G, so far under the 
 web in the direction of the yarn, that when sitting 
 on his loom at work, his right foot may rest on the 
 one treadle, and his left on the other; and as the 
 treadles are suspended from the under side of the 
 heddles by the cords, b b, c c, d d, the one treadle 
 being attached to the back, and the other to the fore 
 leaf, and therefore balanced by the roller above, 
 the weaver has only to press down the one treadle 
 and the other alternately, as the shot is thrown in, 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 29 
 
 and the shedding with one thread up, and one down, 
 according to the draught in the heddles, is thus 
 easily and beautifully effected. 
 
 15. The throwing of the shuttle is done without 
 the aid of any mechanical contrivance. Fig. 10th 
 is a represention of the shut- 
 tle. The weaver merely 
 takes it in his hand, and 
 throws it through the shed 
 from the point of his fore Fig. 10. Hand Shuttle, 
 finger, catching it with the 
 
 fingers of the other hand, as it emerges from the 
 shed on the opposite side. He then strikes the shot 
 home, and the reed is the instrument with which 
 this is done; but as it is slight in its make, like a long 
 comb, its pressure is rendered effective, and weight 
 imparted to it, by its being put in a frame. * 
 
 16. This frame is called the Lathe, seen de- 
 tached in Fig. 11th, and suspended from its place 
 
 
 
 1 i — ti 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 0 
 
 p 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 
 0* 
 
 1 
 
 Fig. 11. Hand Lathe. 
 
30 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 in the loom at O, Fig. 4th, and moves or oscillates 
 perpendicularly, in the space between the fell or verge 
 of the cloth n, and the heddles, like a pendulum. 
 The two arms pendant o o, are called the swords 
 and the transverse piece o\ the sole. The reed is 
 set in the groove e, seen in Fig. 4th, in the sole be- 
 tween the swords; and forms a wall behind to guide 
 the shuttle in its passage through the shed; whilst a 
 projecting piece of the sole in front, or rather a thin 
 strip of hardwood f, nailed at this part of it, to prevent 
 the lathe from being worn by the shuttle, and called 
 the race, supports it beneath. Above the reed is sup- 
 ported in a groove in the upper shell P, which like- 
 wise forms a handle, by which the weaver, as soon as 
 he has thrown in the shuttle, seizes the lathe with 
 the hand thus disengaged, and drives or strikes the 
 shot up to the fell. 
 
 17. Thus each hand is alternately used in 
 throwing the shuttle and working the lathe; and 
 as the operation is carried on, the space in front of 
 the heddles gets worked up, so that the room be- 
 comes insufficient for the motion of the lathe. 
 The weaver therefore stops as every two inches or 
 thereabouts of cloth are worked, and withdrawing 
 the bore-staff, turns the cloth beam so much with 
 the handle K, whilst its return is prevented by the 
 click L, acting on the ratchet placed at the end of it 
 for that purpose. This operation is called drawing 
 the bore. 
 
 18. This is the manner in which weaving was 
 carried on, with some variation, among all nations 
 down to the year 1738, when a great improvement 
 
ON WEAVING BY II AND. 
 
 31 
 
 was made in the working of the hand loom, which 
 rendered it three times more productive than it was 
 before. This was the invention of the fly-shuttle. 
 
 19. This great invention, for which we are in- 
 debted to Mr John Key, an ingenious weaver, a 
 native of Bury, in Lancashire, consists merely in 
 adding to the sole of the lathe on each side or end 
 a small box u u, made in continuation of the race 
 beyond the swords, for the reception of the shuttle, 
 with a spindle to each tt, fixed above it parallel with 
 the race, as seen in elevation in Fig. 12th, and in 
 
 EE \ / 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 0 
 
 =&n — = 
 
 \ 
 
 M 
 
 
 r ? 
 
 0 
 
 \ ? 
 
 iLJxasci r -f — r~ — j 
 
 m ~~ * l 
 
 Fig. 12. Fly Shuttle Lathe. 
 0 0 
 
 u u 
 
 Fig. 13, Section of Plan. of do. 
 
 section of the plan in Fig. 13th. There is then a bit 
 of wood called the driver or picker, variously made, 
 as represented in Figs. 14, 15, 16, and 17, fitted to 
 slide on the spindle in each box ; and to keep it steady 
 
32 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 in motion, it is furnished with a tongue or tenor y, at 
 its lower end, so as to work in a groove or slit, made 
 
 Figs. 14, 15, 16, and 17, Drivers, one fifth of the common size. 
 
 in the race immediately under it for that purpose. 
 The two drivers q q are connected together with 
 the fly-cords/?/?, which the weaver when at work on 
 his loom, holds in his hand by a handle n, called the 
 fly-pin. The shuttle, made as seen in Fig. 18, is then 
 
 Fig. 18. Fly Shuttle, one fifth of the common size for Muslin. 
 
 put in the box in front of the driver; and as the cord is 
 so long as to permit that driver only, with the shuttle 
 before it, to move to the end of the box, whilst the 
 other driver is at the entrance, the weaver has there- 
 fore merely to jerk the fly-pin gently in the direction 
 across the web, and the shuttle is thrown through 
 the shed into the opposite box, pushing the driver 
 before it. 
 
 20. The shot thus thrown in, is then struck home 
 with the left hand, which always rests on the lathe 
 for that purpose. 
 
 21. These motions by this method of weaving are 
 performed in a very short space of time ; usually, on 
 yard wide work, at about the rate of an 100 shots 
 per minute. In broad work where the shuttle re- 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 33 
 
 quires a longer time to traverse the web, the speed 
 is, of course, diminished, perhaps to about 80. But, 
 in work of this sort especially, an increase of speed 
 is not the only gain derived from the employment 
 
 Fig. 19. Transverse Section of the Modern Hand Loom. 
 
 of the fly-shuttle, inasmuch as all work woven by 
 the old method, of a greater width than the weaver 
 could embrace within his extended arms, was ne- 
 cessarily done by two weavers, one at each side of 
 the web to receive and return the shuttle, and this 
 they could not do at a rate exceeding 40. Whereas 
 by the fly shuttle, speed is obtained to such a degree, 
 
 c 
 
34 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 that it is limited only by the strength of the weaver 
 to maintain it, or by his art in managing the yarn 
 and the implements so as to fit them for sustaining 
 a very high rate of working : and in respect to speed 
 in shuttling, therefore, the hand loom is perfected 
 by this invention. 
 
 22. But although the success of this very simple 
 contrivance was complete, and effected the greatest 
 possible saving of time in shuttling, a loss was ne- 
 cessarily experienced every bore in withdrawing and 
 adjusting the bore-stafF, which was felt to be the 
 more inconvenient, from the very efficiency of this 
 new method of weaving. Attempts, accordingly, 
 were soon made to get rid of this inconvenience, 
 and these ended in the displacement of the bore-stafF 
 altogether, by the introduction of that beautiful me- 
 thod of tightening the web, by what is technically 
 called the friction pace, seen in Fig. 19th, on prev- 
 ious page, which is a transverse section of the com- 
 mon hand loom, with the roll removed, to show a 
 full front view of this apparatus. 
 
 23. This method of pacing the web consists 
 merely in passing a cord v, two or three times round 
 the end of the beam, and attaching to it a weight or 
 loaded lever Y, hung in opposition to the warp, by 
 which the tension of the web is maintained and ad- 
 justed, whilst this lever-weight is balanced by a small 
 counter-weight Z, suspended from the other end of 
 the cord in front of the beam. The beam is, there- 
 fore, by this means, converted into a friction roller, 
 which not only permits the bore to be drawn with- 
 out any of the inconveniences and loss of time at- 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 3.5 
 
 tendant on the use of the bore -staff, but with the 
 additional advantages of a uniformity of tension, 
 sufficiently so, at least, for practical purposes; and a 
 resilliance in action to the motion of the shed, un- 
 attainable by the other means. 
 
 24. This method of pacing the web was, therefore, 
 highly succesful in practice ; not only because of its 
 saving time for shuttling, which is a positive gain, 
 but from its being so completely adapted to weaving, 
 that it has become as essential to it as the fly-shuttle 
 itself. 
 
 25. But speed in shuttling is merely a means to 
 speed in weaving ; and will be effective in produc- 
 ing the greatest quantity of cloth in a given time, 
 only in so far as the breakage of the yarn is pre- 
 vented, that the rate of shuttling may be well kept 
 up. For this purpose, therefore, the weaver exerts 
 his utmost skill to devise and employ every means 
 in weaving to save the yarn : — 
 
 First, — In preparing the yarn, dressing it in such 
 a manner, as to impart the utmost strength to it of 
 which the process is capable. 
 
 Secondly, — As to the position of the yarn or web 
 in the loom, that it suffer the least strain necessary 
 in weaving — and 
 
 Thirdly, — That all the motions of weaving are 
 performed with the least possible injury to the yarn. 
 
 26. This view of the subject leads us to the con- 
 sideration of weaving as a process carried on by art; 
 and dressing, as a preparatory process essential to 
 weaving : — and 
 
 27. First, then, — With reference to dressing, we 
 
36 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 may observe ; — that threads made of any fibrous ma- 
 terial, such as Cotton, Linen, Flax, or Wool, are 
 formed by laying the filaments of which they are com- 
 posed parallel to each other, and then locking them 
 together by imparting twist to them. But as the ends 
 of the filaments which are not secured by twisting are 
 thrown from the surface of the thread by the centri- 
 fugal force of its rotation on its axis, the yarn comes 
 from the spinner in a rough and woolly state, in 
 which it is unfit for being woven, from the unavoid- 
 able interuption and breakage of the yarn by these 
 filaments in shedding, especially where the work 
 is fine. 
 
 28. Now the process of dressing consists in lay- 
 ing these filaments along the surface of the yarn, 
 and securing them in this position, by the application 
 of paste with a brush. Dressing is, therefore, a pre- 
 paratory process to weaving properly so called, and 
 so highly necessary to it, especially to fine work, 
 whether cotton or linen, that the success of the 
 weaver may be ascertained from his manner of per- 
 forming it; and, as the object of the process in giving 
 it a smooth surface, is to impart to the yarn the 
 utmost strength of which it is capable, this must be 
 done with the least waste of its strength in the per- 
 formance of the process. 
 
 29. Now the web is dressed in the loom, stretch 
 after stretch as it is worked, leaving about two inches 
 of the old dressing behind the heddles, to which the 
 new is to be joined ; and the general practice in 
 working with clasped heddles, is to draw over the 
 web at the end of the dressing to increase the length 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 37 
 
 of the stretch, from the supposition that a dressing* 
 a little longer may be done as soon as a shorter one. 
 But this practice is over-done, so that the yarn is 
 very frequently strained from the length of the 
 stretch. Two feet two inches is a sufficient length 
 of dressing for very fine yarn ; but for common or 
 coarse fabrics, the weaver may take as much of a 
 stretch as he conveniently can, which is about three 
 feet. 
 
 30. As the yarn is warped, of which we shall 
 speak by and by, in half gangs, each consisting of a 
 certain number of threads run together from be- 
 ginning to end of the web, for the convenience of 
 beaming, and starched after it comes off the mill, the 
 threads of the half gangs cohere together as the 
 strands in an untwisted cord ; and were the paste 
 applied to them in this state, the brush could not 
 sufficiently reach them to lay the fibres, notwith- 
 standing that the yarn would suffer severely from 
 its friction in working through them, without being 
 able to clear them out individually ; and thus much 
 time would be wasted in separating them, when the 
 yarn, after all, would be in an unfit state to be woven. 
 
 31. The yarn must, therefore, be prepared for 
 the application of the paste — it must be opened up, 
 so that the threads may, as much as possible, be in- 
 dividually clear of each other. This clearing up of 
 the threads is called redding the web, and for the 
 facility of doing so chiefly, a third rod, the lease rod 
 A, Figs. 19th and 20th, is used, and put in a shed 
 
 * That portion of the weh which is dressed at a time, is 
 called a dressing. 
 
38 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 formed with the threads, in couples up and down 
 alternately. This shed or rod, is cleared down to 
 
 Fig. 20, Lateral Section of the Modern Hand Loom. 
 
 the beam ; all the rods are then taken out, and the 
 web is effectually cleared up by brushing it once or 
 twice over with a dry brush. The yarn is next ex- 
 amined for the purpose of picking it of any knots, 
 and piecing any threads, otherwise faulty, which 
 might give way in weaving ; and the web is now in 
 a fit state for the appliaction of the paste or dressing. 
 
 82. The dressing is made of flour and water 
 boiled together, till the glutinous and starchy matter 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 39 
 
 of the flour are thoroughly incorporated. The 
 time necessary for effecting this properly, will vary. 
 It may be sufficiently done with about half an hour's 
 boiling ; but the process will be facilitated, and the 
 paste improved, by previously soaking the flour in 
 water for a day or two. The dressing, as made up 
 for use, should be about the thickness of good honey; 
 and as the quality of the paste is essential to the 
 strength of the yarn, it must be made of the best 
 material — of the best American wheat flour. 
 
 33. Weavers in general, prefer old dressing, from 
 its being less apt when softened by age to twist the 
 yarn together, or plait it, as it is called, in dressing. 
 But as this quality of the paste is the result of a loss 
 of tenacity or strength, the yarn when dressed by it 
 is weak in a proportionate degree ; and, moreover, as 
 plaiting is but indirectly dependent on the quality 
 of the paste, and directly on the manner of applying 
 it, and is, after all, an indication of ineffective brush- 
 ing — either that the dressing is unequally, or too 
 slowly applied, the remedy must be sought for in the 
 working of the brush. 
 
 34). As the brush is the great instrument in dress- 
 ing, on w T hich the quantity and quality of the work 
 directly depends, it must be made of the best strong 
 boar's hair ; long in the staple for fine yarn, and of 
 a length and breadth such as the weaver can handle 
 with ease; 12 inches by 2 is the common size as 
 used in Scotland, although they are generally a 
 little larger in England; and as the dressing is more 
 easily seen on black hair, it is preferable, perhaps, on 
 that account, from its colour. Although plaiting, 
 
40 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 except from accident, will not take place with a bad 
 brush in a good hand, bridging, that is, two or more 
 threads connected together by the filaments trans- 
 versely, to a greater or less degree, is inevitable 
 from the weakness of the brush. But besides the 
 weakness of the brush from its being made of insuf- 
 ficient stuff, or from the failure of the hair by split- 
 ting from use, bridging, like plaiting, will take place 
 from ineffective brushing, by weakness in its action 
 from working it in a sloping direction on the yarn. 
 
 35. Now as the filaments on the surface of the 
 yarn must be laid in the direction of the threads, 
 the brush in laying them, must move in the same 
 direction, with the force of its bristles acting as much 
 as possible at right angles to the threads. The 
 face of the brush must therefore be flat, to have 
 the greatest acting surface on the yarn, and the 
 bristles should be set perpendicularly in the stock, 
 that they may act in the required direction with the 
 utmost effect. 
 
 36. This right angular position of the brush in 
 working on the yarn is thus the best, both for lay- 
 ing the filaments and applying the paste; but as the 
 securing of them in this position, so as to impart the 
 utmost strength to the yarn from the paste, is de- 
 pendent on its quality, the dressing should be as 
 strong as the brush can lay it on, without injuring 
 the yarn by the friction of spreading it. 
 
 37. Now this friction is chiefly dependent on the 
 adhesion of the paste to the brush, and the cohesion 
 of the paste itself; and both of these kinds of friction 
 may be much diminished with advantage to the yarn ; 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 41 
 
 that from the cohesion, by rendering the dressing 
 friable by thoroughly working it with a flat stick on 
 the board, on which it is made up in small quantities 
 for immediate use. The dressing thus prepared will 
 have a creamy pulpy appearance ; and as it will be 
 used before fermentation affects it, it will have the 
 friability, without the weakness, induced by that 
 process. And as the adhesion of the dressing to the 
 brush is increased by using it with its bristles cloated 
 with old paste, it must be kept clean, washed at 
 least every day ; and it will be found highly bene- 
 ficial in dressing, as it diminishes the friction, and 
 facilitates the distribution of the paste, to wet the 
 brush slightly immediately before it is to be used in 
 applying the paste when commencing to dress. 
 
 38. The web and the dressing being thus pre- 
 pared, the weaver dips the brush lightly in the paste; 
 and as there are two brushes, one for each hand, he 
 spreads the paste orer the face of the brushes by 
 rubbing them lightly together, and commences 
 dressing, by stroking the yarn gently near the tail 
 or termination of the stretch towards the yarn beam, 
 against which he is standing in a stooping posture 
 to work the brushes. The next stroke or two is 
 taken a little higher, till he reaches the heddles, 
 when he begins to double the brushing by using 
 both of the hands alternately ; always taking care 
 at the end of every stroke, to raise the brush out of 
 the yarn in a sloping direction, to prevent the form- 
 ation on the threads, of little sliding lumps, from 
 the loose filaments and paste, called beads ; and to 
 keep the web as much as possible undisturbed by 
 
42 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the brushing, the one brush should not be raised out 
 of the yarn, till the other has entered upon it in 
 commencing the new stroke ; and entered likewise 
 as it left it, but with less obliquity. The motion of 
 the brush should be quick, steady, and light, and 
 carried freely along the yarn; and as there is a tend- 
 ency in the web, from the want of support, to yield 
 under the brush, however lightly handled, an addi- 
 tional tension must be given it ; and this should be 
 done by the bore-staff, which, when thus used, in 
 conjunction with the pace, has an advantage in 
 dressing, that the pace used singly does not possess; 
 inasmuch as the web is brushed in brush-breadths 
 at a time, and there are always three or more in the 
 breadth of the web, the stretching of the portion un- 
 der the action of the brushes does not expose the rest 
 of the web to the additional tension ; and thus, in 
 beginning to weave the new dressing, there is less 
 variation from the straight line of the fell, as left at 
 the previous dressing, and, therefore, less difficulty 
 in joining the new cloth to the old, than if the 
 tightening of the web had been wholly effected by 
 the pace. 
 
 39. The paste is applied in repeated portions 
 according as the yarn may have taken it on ; and 
 in such quantities at a time, as neither to weaken 
 the yarn by over-loading it with the paste, or by 
 over-wetting it, to strip it ; nor in so small quan- 
 tities as to fret the yarn by the friction of brushing it. 
 
 40. By this manner of applying the paste, layer 
 after layer, the yarn is strengthened as the process 
 proceeds, and by the time a sufficiency of paste has 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 43 
 
 been applied, the body of the thread has acquired a 
 firmness by which it is prepared to undergo the 
 action of drying ; and thus, plaiting, which takes 
 place only in this stage, in changing from the wet to 
 the dry, and chiefly from being over-wetted irregu- 
 larly, is prevented. 
 
 41. The drying of the web is facilitated with ad- 
 vantage to the yarn by slightly raising one of the 
 sheds, the lease-rod chiefly, so as to assist the action 
 of the brush, which is used occasionally with the 
 one hand, in clearing the yarn, whilst the other is 
 moving the fan over the web to remove the damp 
 atmosphere from it. The yarn thus managed, is 
 dried equally throughout the stretch, so as to pre- 
 vent plaiting either by the action of the fan or the 
 atmosphere. 
 
 42. Fig. 21, is a representa- 
 tion of the fan, which, it will be 
 seen, is wing shaped ; and to 
 prevent the yarn from being in- 
 jured by the ruffling of the fila- 
 ments, any thread which may 
 give way in the latter part of 
 the process of brushing should not be tied, nor 
 should the yarn be touched, if possible, in any man- 
 ner that may disturb the threads till it is nearly dry, 
 when it is stroked once or twice over with a brush 
 rubbed with grease, and all danger is then over.* 
 
 43. The lease rod is now put in, and cleared 
 
 * Dr. Ure in his Dictionary of Manufactures, page 136, 3d 
 edition, article Bleaching, in speaking of the origin of spangs, 
 
44 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 down to the beam ; and so should the second rod, 
 lest there be some obstruction. But if the process has 
 
 i. e. stains arising in the cloth in the process of bleaching, gives 
 his opinion decidedly, that they result from the grease made use 
 of by the weaver in the process of dressing the yarn, and in sup- 
 port of that opinion he says, — 
 
 " The stains which come out upon maddered goods, in con- 
 sequence of defective bleaching, are called in this country 
 Spangs. Their origin is such as I have described above, as the 
 following statement of facts will show, The weaver of calicoes, 
 receives frequently a fine warp so tender from bad spinning or 
 bad staple in the cotton, that it will not bear the ordinary strain 
 of the heddles, or friction of the shuttle and reed, and he is 
 obliged to throw in as much weft as will compensate for the 
 weakness or thinness of the warp, and make a good marketable 
 cloth. He of course tries to gain his end at the least expense 
 of time and labour. Hence, when his paste dressing becomes 
 dry and stiff, he has recourse to such greasy lubricants as he 
 can most cheaply procure ; which are commonly either tallow 
 or butter in a rancid state, but the former being the lowest priced 
 is preferred. Accordingly, the weaver, having heated a lump 
 of iron, applies it to a piece of tallow held over the warp in the 
 loom, and causes the melted fat to drop in patches upon the 
 yarns, which he afterwards spreads more evenly with his brush. 
 It is obvious, however, that the grease must be very irregularly 
 applied in this way, and be particularly thick on certain spots. 
 This irregularity seldom fails to appear when the goods are 
 bleached or dyed by the common routine of work. Printed 
 calicoes examined by a skilful eye, will be often seen to be stain- 
 ed with large blotches evidently occasioned by this vile practice 
 of the weaver." 
 
 The above passage is a striking example of the errors which 
 are frequently committed by men even of great intelligence, in 
 the description of processes with which they are practically 
 unacquainted, in trusting to casual observation only. The 
 description, indeed, is founded on a misconception of the process 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 45 
 
 been properly done according to the manner here re- 
 commended, and with good brushes, the dressing may- 
 be finished with scarcely a thread sticking together. 
 
 of dressing. The grease is not only nowhere used in the man- 
 ner represented by the Dr., but it is not even used for the object 
 for which he imagines it designed. 
 
 The iron is made use of by the weavers in England for no 
 other purpose than to dry the yarn ; and in Scotland it is 
 not used at all, because, in general, as the goods made there are 
 lighter set, and, indeed, in the cotton line, almost altogether of a 
 lighter kind of fabric, than in England, the yarn can be dryed 
 with sufficient ease by the fan, and in a manner more suitable 
 to the yarn. But grease used in any manner in a considerable 
 quantity, is injurious to the yarn ; the object in the use of it 
 as a finishing to the dressing, is to prevent the yarn from hard- 
 ening by desiccation, which is effected by coating the surface 
 slightly with fatty matter. But if it be used in any considerable 
 quantity, so as to affect the body of the thread, it does so by 
 diminishing the cohesion of the paste, and by that means weak- 
 ens the yarn. It is, therefore, used in small quantities by all 
 weavers, and chiefly to soften the surface filaments, so as to 
 facilitate the gliding of the heddles over them, that the eyes 
 and the yarn in working with clasped heddles, be as little as 
 possible injured by the friction in putting them back. 
 
 Muslins are generally wrought in Scotland with clasped hed- 
 dles, and on that account the grease is the more necessary to the 
 work. But in Lancashire, where the eyed kind is commonly 
 used, it is often dispensed with altogether ; and, indeed, this is 
 the case in both countries, when the work is wrought in this 
 manner, from motives of economy. When, however, it is used 
 in either England or Scotland, it is applied with a brush, and 
 the quantity required is so small, that two or three ounces even 
 for Muslins, which relatively need the most, are sufficient, 
 according to the common practice, for a web of 120 yards in 
 length. 
 
 The grease used is generally tallow, sometimes palm oil ; but 
 tallow is preferred, because as it is harder, it is better adapted on 
 
46 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 44. With reference to that position of the yarn 
 in the loom as best adapted for weaving, we may 
 
 that account, for being used as required in a sparing manner. 
 The object in the use of the tallow is thus chiefly to soften 
 the surface filaments of the yarn, so as to prevent them from 
 acting in a filing manner on th e heddle eyes in passing over them. 
 
 If grease were in any degree a remedy for bad yarn, the weaver 
 would, no doubt, have much occasion for it. The spirit of 
 competition in the struggle for cheap production, throws into his 
 hand a great quantity of stuff which is unfit for weaving. The 
 weft, too, in many cases, is so bad, that it can scarcely be wound. 
 Goods so made, it is obvious, cannot give satisfaction to the 
 consumer, and tend to injure the trade by limiting the demand 
 for the article. This practice is more especially confined to in- 
 ferior houses, and, no doubt, in time, it will correct itself, like 
 all other evils. But without waiting for the remedy in the 
 usual way, the introduction of machinery to the muslin depart- 
 ment, where the practice is attended with the greatest injury, 
 by rendering it directly the interest of the manufacturer to use 
 good yarn, will, by and by, place the trade permanently in a 
 state advantageous for all parties. But at present the manu- 
 facturer has little direct interest in the quality of the yarn which 
 he purchases. His object is to get it woven, which he can easily 
 do, and that of the spinner to get it sold. In both cases, com- 
 petition forces them to produce their respective goods at the 
 least cost. The quality of the yarn is, therefore, too much a 
 secondary consideration with each of them ; and must continue 
 to be so, so long as the weaving of it is done by hand. Hence 
 the spinner is induced to work up short stapled, and inferior 
 cotton, which is weakened by overdrawing it for numbers of 
 yarn for which it is not fitted ; and the same principle which 
 urges the manufacturer to adopt every means to cheapen his 
 goods, forces the weaver, in the very unfavourable circumstances 
 in which he is placed, to weave it. Thus, there is a general 
 tendency throughout the manufacture by hand looms, to use in- 
 ferior stuff. But the practice is less general in England than 
 in Scotland, and is accounted for, independently of a greater 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 47 
 
 observe, that, as a certain degree of strain must be 
 borne by it, all tbat we can do, supposing this strain 
 
 tendency to liberality in the* southern mode of doing business, 
 by the manner in which the work is engaged for by the weavers 
 there. In England, the weaver who has a loom-shop engages 
 the work from the warehouse at so much a piece, in which pirn 
 winding is included. The manufacturer furnishes him with the 
 heddles and reed for each respective web, and the pirns are 
 wound in the weaver's family, The journeyman weaver takes 
 the work thus brought to him from the master of the shop, and 
 is charged some threepence or fourpence out of the shilling of 
 his earning, or the gross sum drawn from the warehouse, for 
 the pirn winding and loom rent. If the web should not turn 
 out favourably, he wont go on with it when business is in its 
 usual way, as he can get a piece ready to his hand any where ; 
 and as it is not the interest of a master weaver to lose a good 
 hand, nor even to go on with the weaving of a bad piece, from 
 which he receives a diminished return, the web is hurried back 
 by mutual consent, unless the manufacturer agrees to make an 
 arrangement suitable to the parties. But in Scotland, circum- 
 stances render this course a matter of much greater difficulty. 
 Each weaver there, in general, engages for his own work. The 
 heddles and harness are his own ; and a practice is growing up 
 of late, I understand, of making him furnish his own reed. 
 The manufacturer, in case the weaver should return the work 
 on account of its being bad, generally endeavours to bind him 
 in the agreement for it, to do so with the heddles and reed in 
 it. The weaver is, therefore, should he adopt this course to 
 get quit of a bad piece, parting with implements which may be 
 necessary to the next web ; and, at any rate, as he cannot lose 
 less than a week by the change, he is induced in most cases, in 
 compliance with his own quiet disposition, to go through with 
 the work without receiving any adequate compensation for his 
 loss, or, indeed, any compensation at all. 
 
 Fine yarn, when bad, requires great skill in the management 
 of it in weaving, and is always attended with a great loss of 
 time. The Scotch weavers have so much to do with fine and 
 
4cS 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 at its minimum, is to place it in such a position in 
 the loom, that the strain may be as equally as possi- 
 ble diffused throughout the stretch. 
 
 indifferent yarn, that they are greatly superior to the English 
 in the management of it. But it is a matter of regret, that 
 they are called upon to exercise so much skill to so little pur- 
 pose. Their vocation is, doubtless, in a state of transition, as 
 is the case, indeed, with every class which society has yet 
 formed. Machinery is stepping in to do the labour for them, 
 and till once they find their true places, as managers, attend- 
 ants, and makers of this agency, they must suffer morally and 
 physically in their relationship in life. The class, indeed, as at 
 present constituted, must disappear, and, by the change, be 
 placed in a position more favourable for the exercise of the 
 faculties which have been already developed, as well as for the 
 improvement of other powers necessary to the individual in 
 maintaining him in a proper relationship in society, so as to fit 
 him for still higher purposes in the changes or phases which the 
 body politic may assume in the further progress of civilization. 
 
 There seems to be a tendency in the popular treatises con- 
 nected with the subject, in accounting for the causes which 
 effect the condition of the hand loom weaver, greatly to under- 
 rate the difficulty of acquiring the art of weaving. Mr Baines 
 in his history of the Cotton Manufacture, speaks of cotton weav- 
 ing as an easy sort of employment, requiring little strength, and 
 less skill, which may be performed by boys and girls of twelve 
 years old, and may be quickly learned by men who have been 
 brought up to any other employment ; and this statement is 
 quoted as conclusive so far as it goes, by the Edinburgh Review, 
 Vol. 58, page 46, in accounting for the over-stocking of a depart- 
 ment with labour in which it is so ill requited. But the anomaly 
 is fully accounted for, by the relative freedom which the weaver 
 enjoys in following his vocation, compared with that of most 
 other trades, especially of those connected with the factory sys- 
 tem, without grounding it on any distinctive difference in the 
 relative difficulty of acquiring the respective mechanical arts. 
 No doubt, if by weaving be merely understood the perform- 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 49 
 
 45. Now, as the yarn is kept tight by extension 
 between the two beams, it forms a straight line from 
 Q to B, as represented in Fig. 20th ; and as this 
 
 ance of the motions so as to be able to turn out cloth in some 
 marketable state, it is true ; but it is equally true of any art, as 
 understood in a similar sense. Boys and §irls of this age are 
 able to do a certain description of work belonging to every 
 trade ; and so may men who have been brought up to some other 
 employment. But both the strength and the skill of such boys 
 and girls will be very soon overdrawn upon, in the weaving of 
 very common fabrics ; and men who have been brought up at 
 some other business, rarely or rather never acquire the art of 
 weaving, although they may contrive to make cloth. 
 
 In point of fact, cotton weaving is one of the most difficult 
 of all the mechanical arts ; and if we estimate the highest ex- 
 cellence in it, as consisting in being able to turn out the 
 greatest quantity of work of the best quality which the utmost 
 strength of the yarn can be made to produce, very few are en- 
 titled to the name of good weavers. I have seen a good deal 
 of weaving, but I cannot say that I ever saw two good weavers, 
 in this high sense in which I am considering the art ; and, 
 indeed, if I were to be more explicit, I should be obliged to 
 acknowledge, that I never saw one who altogether attained this 
 high standard in weaving. 
 
 Hand weaving, to be carried to the highest improvement in 
 practice of "which it is capable, must be accomplished by weavers 
 placed in the most favourable circumstances for it. The weaver 
 must be exclusively employed at one kind of fabric — never, on 
 any account, changing his hand to any other description of work ; 
 and he must, likewise, be naturally well adapted for the 
 peculiar kind of work to excel in it : he must have a nice per- 
 ception of weight ; great command over the muscular system ; 
 and sufficient energy to use his faculties in an effective manner. 
 
 The number of good weavers, even in a modified sense, is 
 very few. There may be in the Glasgow district, that is through- 
 out Scotland, some six or seven in the muslin department, 
 coming under this description ; and, in the same line, about 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 line is merely the result of an attempt made by all 
 the fibres of the yarn to equalize the tension among 
 them, or, in other words, as the strain is in the 
 direction of the warp line, it is in the best position 
 in which the web can be put for weaving. 
 
 46. But it is not enough that the warp line is 
 horizontally placed in the direction of the strain, it 
 must also be in the direction of the stroke of the lathe. 
 
 47. Now as the lathe, it will be seen by Fig. 
 20th, is not hung from a point, or rather a line 
 perpendicular to the commencement of its stroke at 
 the fell, for reasons which we shall presently notice, 
 but at about half of the length of the stroke from it, 
 the warp line dips so much from the horizontal line, 
 as to bring it to a rectangular line with the lathe 
 when it strikes the fell, and, therefore, in the direc- 
 tion of the stroke. 
 
 48. But although this is the best position in 
 which the web can be put for resisting strain in 
 weaving, the yarn may nevertheless be injured in 
 this position by over-tension, and likewise by an 
 injudicious length of stretch ; and therefore some 
 practical knowledge of the strain which yarn is ca- 
 pable of sustaining, becomes here absolutely neces- 
 
 Manchester, perhaps, one. There is then a considerable class 
 under these, respectable in their mode of working, in botii 
 districts ; and, below these, again, the great body of the weavers 
 may be ranged ; but out of this body, there is a large proportion 
 who are not, nor never can be, weavers — they are merely labour- 
 ers. In the coarser descriptions of weaving, again, such as 
 calicoes and very heavy cambrics, a man has not sufficient 
 strength to bring out the quantity of work which the yarn can 
 easily be made to produce. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 51 
 
 sary to the weaver. He knows that much of the 
 beauty of the cloth depends on the web being well 
 paced ; and that under-pacing invariably imparts 
 to the fabric a raw unskinned look and slack feel ; 
 on the other hand, breakage in weaving is the in- 
 evitable consequence of over-pacing. 
 
 49. The rule, therefore, is — That the web is to 
 be paced as highly as it can stand, without injuring 
 the yarn in weaving. 
 
 50. The proper length of stretch is far from be- 
 ing an unimportant consideration in weaving ; as 
 the yarn may be injured by its being either too long 
 or two short. If it is too long, it must be weak- 
 ened by the unnecessary continuance under strain 
 in the loom ; or it may be strained, from an insuf- 
 ficiency of spring for the shedding of the web, occa- 
 sioned by the shortness of the stretch. Both of these 
 extremes must be avoided; but when it is recollected, 
 that the length of stroke of the lathe and depth of 
 shedding vary very much with the kind of work in 
 weaving, and that, as that portion of the stretch from 
 the fell to the rods for preserving the lease behind the 
 heddles, is taken up by these motions, its length 
 must be regulated entirely by their size ; and so must 
 the other portion, extending to the beam, that a suf- 
 ficiency of spring to the yarn under the action of 
 shedding maybe obtained: and therefore the proper 
 length of stretch, it will be evident, can be deter- 
 mined only as to the kind of work under consider- 
 ation, — both with reference to material and make. 
 
 51. The materials in common use are cotton, 
 linen, silk, and woollen ; and each of them has 
 
52 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 some peculiarities in the weaving, which must be 
 attended to, dependent on the rigidity of their fibres. 
 Cotton in this respect may be regarded as the mean 
 of these materials ; and as it is by far the most ex- 
 tensively manufactured, and presents the greatest 
 variety of fabric, some of the finer sorts of which, 
 as pieces of art, requiring a skill in the management 
 of yarn altogether unequalled in weaving, we shall 
 begin with it; because we shall thereby gain a much 
 better knowledge of the principles of the art, as exem- 
 plified in its practice, than by selecting for that pur- 
 pose the peculiarities of the others, which, after all, 
 will be best brought out and illustrated as varieties 
 of the subject. 
 
 52. Of the cotton fabrics, some are very heavy 
 in their make — such as moleskins, corduroys, and 
 imitations of woollen goods for mens' garments : 
 some sailcloth is likewise made of it, although it is 
 not well fitted for that purpose.* Then there 
 
 * I am not aware that any sailcloth is made in this country 
 from cotton, but a patent was taken out some few years ago in 
 France, by a house at Rouen, in Normandy, for the manufacture 
 of sailcloths from this material, and the patentees were en- 
 deavouring to force the article into notice, by circulating printed 
 testimonials from several marine officers and other masters of 
 vessels who had tried it, and who spoke highly favourably of it ; 
 but it did not seem to be taking well with ship-masters generally. 
 
 The work was well enough woven, but whatever may be said 
 of cotton as to its being used in fabrics which are so liable to 
 great and sudden strain as ships' sails, the relative weakness. of 
 its fibre, compared with linen, is a great objection to it ; and, 
 moreover, as it absorbs much more moisture, the sails made from 
 it must thereby be rendered heavy in the handling in wet weather, 
 although, it is true, the cloth is more flexible than linen. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 53 
 
 are counterpanes, sheetings, shirtings, heavy domes- 
 tics, and calicoes. There is next a class of goods 
 made of dyed yarn, comprehended under the names 
 of pullicates, ginghams, and furniture cloth. And, 
 lastly, muslins, the finest of all makes : besides, 
 mixed and fancy goods, of which at present we take 
 no notice. Of all these makes there are a great 
 many varieties. In the muslin alone there are at 
 least six distinct fabrics; such as cambrics, jaconets, 
 mediums, light jaconets, lawns, and books. 
 
 53. Now all these sorts of goods and fabrics, 
 made of whatever material, are measured, with re- 
 ference to fineness, by the reed, and with reference 
 to make, by the grist of yarn in the reed. The reed 
 is made to contain a certain number of dents or splits 
 in a given space, which, in England, is generally 36 
 inches, but it is counted by the threads in an inch, or 
 according to another scale, by the number of beers 
 in 24 inches and a quarter ; and in Scotland by the 
 the splits in 37 inches.* 
 
 54. The primary distinction then, between one 
 fabric and another, is a difference in the grist of 
 yarn, for the same count of reed. For example ; a 
 1400 calico, Scotch count, might be made of yarn 
 No. 40 s j but the yarn for a cambric may be about 
 60 s , for a jaconet, 80 s , 100 s for a medium, for a 
 light jaconet 120 s , for a lawn 140 s , and for a book 
 of this count of reed, perhaps 200 s . 
 
 55. In all this adaptation, however, of the yarns 
 to the reeds and makes, which is called setting or 
 
 * The Beer is 20 dents, equivalent to what is called a Porter, 
 in Scotland: 
 
54 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 caaming, there is a considerable difference among 
 manufacturers, occasioned chiefly by the market for 
 which the goods are made. 
 
 56. The range of reeds from sailcloth makes, up 
 to the finest muslins, is from 300 s to 3000 s Scotch 
 count ; and in the yarns for warp, from 7 lbs. in the 
 spindle linen, to about 450 hanks in the pound 
 cotton.* 
 
 57. This prodigious variety of reeds and yarns, 
 presents us with varieties of makes in weaving of a 
 character almost opposite to each other. The one 
 
 * Cotton and linen yarn, and even woollen, are sized or 
 gristed on reels of different lengths, used exclusively for the 
 respective kinds of yarn ; so that the count, or number of the yarn 
 by which it is known, varies accordingly. This part of the sub- 
 ject is explained in the latter part of the work in treating of the 
 sizing of the yarn for different makes of cloth. 
 
 Yarn so extremely fine as 450 hanks in the pound, has never 
 yet been used in the making of muslins. Some of it is spun 
 and doubled for the lace trade, as will be seen by Mr T. Houlds- 
 worth's list. Bnt for muslins, yarn even so fine as 250 s is very 
 rarely used. Such yam is necessarily made of the best of Sea 
 Island Cotton, and the cloth as made from it, from the quality 
 of the cotton, when well finished, has something of the lustrous 
 appearance of silk. Were a piece of goods made from 450 s , and 
 woven by one of our best weavers, and properly finished, it 
 would be the most exquisite piece of cloth of the sort, that the 
 world ever saw. But work so exquisitely fine is beyond the 
 demands of the trade ; not that the difficulty of weaving it is 
 any obstacle to its production, but it is not wanted. The public 
 taste is not sufficiently improved to appreciate the value of such 
 exquisite pieces of art ; and plied as it is, by the most vulgar 
 spirit of competition, puffing, it has fewer opportunities of 
 judging of the relative quality of goods than it otherwise 
 might, from the quantity of trash which is so generally met with 
 every where. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 55 
 
 kind of goods so strong and heavy, that weaving in 
 any common manner, can scarcely produce breakage 5 
 and power ) therefore, is the chief element in its pro- 
 duction. In the other, where both reed and yarn 
 are very fine, skill is the indispensible requisite in 
 weaving, so as to save the yarn. 
 
 58. In all this variety of weaving, there must be 
 an adaptation of tools to the w r ork, dependent chiefly 
 on these two characteristics in the makes. But as 
 this adaptation is more especially necessary in fine 
 weaving, where so much depends on the fitness of 
 the implements, and w T here, therefore, the art of 
 weaving will be exemplified in the highest degree, 
 we shall begin with it : — and first, then, with the 
 tools and their adaptation. 
 
 59. As the loom is common to all kinds of weav- 
 ing, and within a certain range of work, requires 
 no other adaptation to the fabric than merely the 
 necessary strength to stand the work, it should al- 
 ways be substantially made, on the square, and of a 
 sufficient width for common purposes. If iron is 
 preferred, which is incomparably the best material 
 for it, Fig. 22d (on next page,) is a representation 
 of a very good form of hand loom. 
 
 60. But whether it is made of wood or of iron, 
 the beams, it may be observed, must be in the same 
 plane, parallel to each other, and above all, true, or 
 of the same diameter throughout. This latter con- 
 dition is absolutely necessary to make good w r ork ; 
 and that they may be kept true, they should be made 
 of wood, quite dry, and not liable to warp, such 
 as good American fir. 
 
56 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 61. For this reason, built beams are better than 
 those made out of the solid ; and, as an additional se- 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 curity in all cases where heavy work is to be done 
 with them, the gudgeons must be in one piece 
 throughout the length of the beam. The diameter 
 of the beams may, to a certain extent, be regulated 
 by convenience; but as they are liable to some un- 
 equal pressure in weaving, which is very apt to 
 produce unequal drawing of the cloth, more especially 
 with a small beam towards the end of the piece, or 
 when its diameter is much increased by the web, and 
 therefore, influenced by the unequal pressure, some 
 attention to their diameter is advantageous in prac- 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 57 
 
 tice. Six inches may be given as a very good thick- 
 ness of beam, for common work, with a gudgeon 
 of about an inch. 
 
 62. The tools, however, which require adaptation 
 in an especial degree, are the heddles, the lathe, and 
 the shuttle ; and we shall suppose that they are de- 
 signed for the weaving of a fine lawn. This kind 
 of fabric, as we have observed, is very light set, and 
 invariably what is called in the trade, even wefted; 
 that is, that the number of threads of the warp and 
 weft in a given space, is equal. This space is 
 measured with a small microscope, the hole of which, 
 through which the weft is counted, is the 200th part 
 of 37 inches in Scotland; and in England, the mea- 
 sure is a part of an inch, usually a quarter. Were 
 this lawn then an 18 00 Scotch, there should be on it, 
 as seen through the glass, 18 shots; and so accurately 
 and evenly, are these shots laid side by side in the web, 
 that the eye can discover no inequality in their texture. 
 
 63. The tools, therefore, by which work of this 
 sort is so beautifully woven, must be nicely adapted 
 to the fabric; and, if both art and power in perform- 
 ing the motions of weaving are combined in an equal 
 degree with the adaptation of the tools, so that a 
 high rate of speed is effectively maintained, the pro- 
 duction of cloth will be the greatest as to quantity, 
 and the best as to quality. 
 
 64. This combination of skilful efficiency in the 
 use of the means, is the perfection in the practice of 
 weaving ; and in directing our attention to the 
 adaptation of the tools, and to the manner in which 
 the motions are performed, for the purpose of attain- 
 
58 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ing it, we must bear in mind, that the production of 
 all motion is attended with a certain tear and wear, 
 or waste of the strength of the material; and, there- 
 fore, we have merely the difference between the 
 waste necessarily produced by the motions, and the 
 absolute strength of the yarn, as a security against 
 breakage ; and hence this difference must be increased 
 as much as possible, by diminishing the tear and wear 
 to the lowest degree compatible with the effective 
 performance of the motions in weaving. 
 
 65. Now supposing this minimum degree of 
 waste to be 25, which is more than it really is, and 
 the absolute strength of the yarn 100, breakage 
 in weaving should result only from accidents and 
 faultiness of the yarn. This is the fact in coarse 
 weaving, and should be as invariably so in fine weav- 
 ing, were the tools, and especially the motions, 
 adapted to the fabric. Increased breakage is not, 
 then, a result to be expected from the fineness of 
 the yarn, but directly dependent on the waste of 
 strength that it suffers in the process of weaving. 
 
 66. Now the motions of weaving that directly 
 affect the yarn, are those of the shed and the lathe ; 
 and in performing them so as to render their action 
 as little injurious as possible, all excessive motion 
 must be avoided, more especially in shedding, as this 
 action is by far the most severe on the yarn. 
 
 67. As the shed is formed by drawing up the yarn 
 in a state of tension perpendicularly with the h ed- 
 dies, to a certain height, varying in practice from 
 about an inch, to perhaps three inches in very coarse 
 fabrics, the strain from the motion will be not only 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 59 
 
 in proportion to the space travelled through by the 
 yarn in a given time, but also, to the angle which it 
 forms to the direction of the force ; and, therefore, 
 the action of a large and rapidly formed shed, must 
 be very severe on the yarn. 
 
 68. Excessive shedding is productive of more 
 breakage in weaving, than all other causes put to- 
 gether ; and a very great deal of unnecessary strain 
 on the yarn, arising from the common practice of 
 shedding, will be prevented by acting on the rule, — 
 That the size of the shed must be the smallest that 
 can be rendered sufficient. 
 
 69. Bat it is not enough that the strain depend- 
 ant on the size of the shed is diminished to the 
 utmost ; we must also diminish as much as possible, 
 the strain arising from time in the motion ; and this 
 can be done to a very considerable degree, by dimin- 
 ishing the velocity at which the shed is raised as 
 it approaches its height. 
 
 70. Now as the shed is formed on the principle 
 of saving time for the working of the shuttle, whilst 
 it also saves the yarn, the velocity of the shedding is 
 accelerated from its commencement, where there is 
 little angular strain, till it is sufficiently formed for 
 the entrance of the shuttle. The portion of shed 
 thus raised before the shuttle enters, should be about 
 two-thirds of its whole depth, when the motion runs 
 into the retarded form, terminating in a pause, be- 
 fore the shuttle has reached the middle of the web. 
 
 71. Now, as about two-thirds of the time taken 
 in performing the motions of weaving, are required 
 by the shuttle in traversing the web, the pause should 
 
riiACTICML TREATISE 
 
 extend over a considerable portion of this space. A 
 third of the breadth of the web may be taken as a 
 very good proportion ; and as the depth of the shed 
 during the pause, should be barely sufficient to clear 
 the shuttle, some trifling additional force will be re- 
 quired in throwing it; but which will be amply 
 repaid by the yarn being thereby saved from a great 
 deal of unnecessary strain in working. 
 
 72. This form of shedding, it will be observed, 
 is not the regularly accelerated and retarded motion 
 of the crank where the greatest velocity is midway be- 
 tween two pauses, practically speaking, equal. The 
 pauses here, on the contrary, are unequal, about as 
 one to two ; and the accelerated and retarded portions 
 are respectively as two to one, with a considerable 
 increase of motion, as compared with the crank, 
 immediately after the short pause, and a proportion- 
 ate decrease in running into the long pause. 
 
 73. These two forms of motion in shedding should 
 be so nicely blended and united with the pauses, that 
 not the slightest disturbance of the heddles should 
 be perceptible. 
 
 74. The three motions of weaving are performed 
 in a certain relationship to each other with regard 
 to time, which contributes very much to their easi- 
 ness in action, as well as to the safety of the yarn ; 
 and, in this respect, the shed, which is entirely re- 
 gulated by the motion of the lathe, completes its ris- 
 ing and falling, from the time that the lathe strikes 
 the fell, till it returns to it again. 
 
 75. We observed that the yarn was raised in a 
 state of tension by the heddles ; and, it is obvious, 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 01 
 
 that there must be a considerable friction and dis- 
 turbance suffered by the threads in passing each 
 other, where the heddle eyes meet in turning the 
 shed. Now, as this tension is relaxed by the lathe 
 in striking the fell, advantage is to be instantly 
 taken of it to start the shed, so as to clear the hed- 
 dle eyes before the yarn has recovered from the 
 blow; and if this is properly done, the practice will 
 be found to be highly beneficial as a means of saving 
 the yarn. Much, indeed, of the success in shuttling 
 depends on the manner in which this rule is exem- 
 plified in working. 
 
 76. But the yarn may suffer unnecessary friction 
 in shedding, from the make of the heddles. Either 
 the eyes may be too bulky, from the coarseness and 
 unevenness of the twine, or the heddles may be too 
 rigid, from the shallowness of the build, to give suf- 
 ficient freedom to the yarn in turning the shed. 
 
 77* Both of these evils are corrected by the 
 adaptation of the heddles to the fabric. The twine 
 of which they are made should be smoothly laid, 
 and neither so fine that the heddles may fail in 
 working, by twisting or early breakage ; nor so 
 coarse as to obstruct the yarn in shedding. 
 
 78. As heddle-making has become a trade, the 
 setting of the twines to the different makes is sys- 
 tematised, and generally well done ; but from a 
 narrowness of economy, the depth of the heddles is 
 almost always too shallow. Ten inches is the usual 
 depth ; but no set of heddles is sufficiently deep for 
 any shedding, with less than twelve inches. 
 
 79. In the old system of weaving, Indian and 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 European, shedding was performed with two leaves, 
 as seen in Fig. 4th; and were the reed fine, the hed- 
 dles would necessarily he so closely set on each leaf, 
 that there would scarcely be room for them to stand 
 together. The friction, therefore, of working with 
 such a set of heddles, even at a low speed, would be 
 sufficient to produce a very great deal of breakage 
 on any ordinary yarn ; and the increased difficulty 
 experienced more especially in the weaving of fine 
 fabrics with them, gave rise to the introduction of 
 a great improvement in he d die-making, which, prac- 
 tically speaking, removed this difficulty ; and that 
 was the division of the heddles into four lines or 
 leaves, by which twice the space was gained to each 
 hecldle, so that all interference with each other at 
 the eyes, was thus avoided. 
 
 80. The increased space thus occupied by the 
 four leaves, is divided equally among the four threads 
 composing the draught in 
 the heddles, in the man- 
 ner represented in Fig. 23rd, 
 
 by taking, first, the fourth 
 
 Fio- 23 
 
 leaf ; next, _ the second leaf ; Draugllt ° in Heddles . 
 then, the third; and the first, 
 
 last. The fourth and the second, make the splitful; 
 and the third and first to the second split, complete 
 the draught in the heddles. 
 
 81. This method of shedding the web by four 
 leaves is so great an improvement, that it is almost 
 universally adopted in this country, although the 
 old method is still commonly used on the continent 
 of Europe. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 63 
 
 -_ 
 
 82. There are two kinds of h eddies in common 
 use — the eyed, already noticed; and the clasped, as 
 seen Fig. 24th, to which we have scarcely alluded, 
 because it is designed only for a stationary state of 
 weaving, and must ultimately, be entirely supplanted 
 by the eyed kind. But whichever of the kinds is 
 used, if they are properly made on this prin- | 
 ciple, they will pass so freely through the 
 yarn in any common fabric, that scarcely any 
 obstruction from the eyes in turning the 
 shed, will be felt by the feet. 
 
 83. But if some little sensation of that sort 
 should be perceptible, which will be chiefly on 
 heavy set fabrics, arising from the coarseness 
 and closeness of the^yarn, it will be suffi- 
 ciently relieved by working with one of the 
 leaves of each shed perceptibly above the 
 other, so as to divide the resistance of the 
 yarn at the turning of the shed, into two Fig. 24. 
 lines. The smallest rise of one of the leaves ^ a c |^ 
 of each shed, the 16th of an inch, will be 
 sufficient for this purpose, as represented in Fig. 
 25th, on the next page. 
 
 84. It will be highly desirable then, that the 
 weaver be brought closely into contact with the 
 yarn, that the resistance made by it in shedding, 
 may be easily felt by him ; and, therefore, the hed- 
 dles should be mounted in such a manner, as to 
 combine as much as possible, firmness, with sus- 
 ceptibility of motion. 
 
 85. Although the common roller represented 
 in Fig. 4th, partakes in its motion of firmness in a 
 
64 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 high degree, and is, on that account, well adapted 
 for heavy work ; yet, as it is inferior in the other 
 
 Fig. 25, View of the Shed at a good working angle for fine 
 weaving, scale f of an inch to the inch. 
 
 quality, to the method known in the trade hy the 
 name of the Jacks, it is less adapted to fine weaving. 
 
 86. The jacks a a a a, Fig. 19th, are merely 
 two pairs of levers suspended separately from the 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 65 
 
 heddle-bearer in pairs, by their centres, one pair to 
 each side or end of the heddles, and balanced by 
 attaching the two back and the two fore leaves to 
 opposite ends of each of their respective jacks. They, 
 therefore, cross each other, as seen in the plan, Fig. 
 26th, so that the hedclle shafts may be equally sup- 
 
 Fig. 26. Plan of Jacks. 
 
 ported ; the upper jack being attached by its left arm, 
 to the two front leaves, and by its right, to the two 
 back ones; and the under one, on the contrary, by its 
 right, to the two front leaves, and its left to the 
 two back ones ; and so, in like manner, with the 
 other pair. The two pairs are kept sufficiently apart 
 from each other by a thin rod, which is hung between 
 them at each end for that purpose. 
 
 87. This method of mounting, secures in a suf- 
 ficient degree, both of the qualities essential to the 
 motion of the heddles, viz. firmness and suscepti- 
 bility in action ; and it is, therefore, almost univer- 
 sally adopted by fine weavers, who are careful as to 
 the mounting of their webs. 
 
 88. Of the attachment of the heddles to the 
 treadles, nothing particular need be said, which Figs. 
 19th and 20th do not sufficiently convey. The spring 
 staffs u u, are used, it will be seen, to strengthen the 
 shafts in their connexion with the treadles ; whilst 
 the short marches T T, maintain the stability of 
 the mounting below. 
 
 89. But as the yarn will be strained in working 
 with clasped heddles hung out of the perpendicular 
 
66 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 line, the weaver must be careful in attaching them 
 to the treadles so as to preserve accurately their 
 vertical position when at work. Eyed heddles, in 
 this respect, correct themselves ; and as there is no 
 strain in working with them, except in drawing the 
 bore, a little obliquity or slope in the direction of 
 the motion of the yarn, as it facilitates the passage 
 of the threads through the eyes, may advantageously 
 be given them. 
 
 90. The adjustment of the heddles is an import- 
 ant part in the process of fine weaving, and consists 
 in nicely placing them in the position the most ad- 
 vantageous for work. This position must be such 
 as to secure for them the two conditions essentially 
 necessary to the heddles for this purpose, viz. their 
 proper level, and their proper place in the stretch ; 
 and, first, as to their proper level. 
 
 91. On this important point, the plane of the 
 cloth beam is the line by which the heddles must be 
 leveled ; but to prevent the level of the web from 
 varying, as the diameter of the beam is affected by 
 the quantity of cloth on it, afixed beam called the slab- 
 stock, Q, Fig. 20th, is interposed on the same plane, 
 between it and the lathe, on which the web is sup- 
 ported at an elevation merely sufficient to maintain it 
 under all working circumstances, at apermanent level 
 above the beam. The slabstock, therefore, as it is 
 the fixed line at which the stretch commences, is 
 the proper gauge by which the heddles are leveled, 
 and set parallel with it at the required height to 
 support the warp line in the direction of the stroke 
 of the lathe, according to the rule in section 46, as 
 illustrated in Fig. 20th. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 67 
 
 92. The proper place, again, for the heddles in 
 the stretch, or their proper distance from the slab- 
 stock, is determined by some nice considerations, 
 dependent on the strain on the yarn by the motions of 
 the shed and the lathe. As the yarn suffers severely 
 from excessive shedding, and, likewise, although in a 
 much smaller degree, from the friction of the reed 
 in working the lathe with a long stroke, these 
 motions must be diminished, according to the rule 
 in section 68, to the smallest size that can be ren- 
 dered sufficient ; and the heddles must be set so as 
 to render the motions as effective as possible. 
 
 93. For this purpose, there must be no unneces- 
 sary space between the slabstock and the heddles ; 
 but as the length of the stretch must bear some 
 proportion to the size of these motions, the proper 
 distance at which the heddles must be set from the 
 slabstock, will depend on what is admitted in prac- 
 tice, as the best working size for the motions; and as 
 the general practice of the trade is the highly injuri- 
 ous one, that of working with too much motion, both 
 of the shed and the lathe, it must be carefully avoided. 
 Three inches for a fine lawn may be taken as a suf- 
 ficient length of stroke for the lathe; and supposing 
 the breadth of the sole to be two inches and three 
 quarters, and the bore an inch and a half, the dis- 
 tance at which the heddles should be placed from the 
 slabstock for work of this sort, making enough of 
 allowance for spare space, will be about nine inches. 
 
 94. The distance of the heddles from the slab- 
 stock affects the yarn in shedding, chiefly by the angle 
 at which it stands to the direction of the force. This 
 
68 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 angle need, in no kind of weaving, be more than twelve 
 degrees; and for a fine lawn, seven may be taken as a 
 very good working angle for the shed. Now, as a 
 shuttle of a full half inch in thickness, is sufficiently 
 large to carry weft enough for a fine web ; and as 
 its distance from the heddles in crossing the web 
 when the lathe is fully back may be two inches, the 
 whole depth of the shed at the heddles, as seen in 
 Fig. &5th, will be about an inch, or seven-eighths ; 
 making an angle at the commencement of the bore, 
 of about seven, and about eight at the termination. 
 
 95. The other portion of the stretch extending 
 to the beam, is necessary in weaving only as it 
 affords a sufficiency of spring to the yarn in shed- 
 ding; and two feet, or less with very fine yarn, is a 
 sufficient length for this purpose — making the whole 
 stretch from the slabstock to the beam, about two 
 feet nine inches. 
 
 96. But the yarn should be supported midway, 
 or about twelve inches from the heddles, in the 
 direction of the stroke of the lathe, at a fixed level, 
 which is generally done by a small roll, w 9 as repre- 
 sented in Fig. 20th ; and to preserve the straight 
 line from beam to beam throughout as much as 
 possible, the elevation of the slabstock should be 
 merely sufficient to prevent the increase of the beam's 
 diameter by the cloth, from affecting the level of the 
 web. Three-eighths of an inch are sufficient for this 
 purpose; and as the support of the roll will be more 
 fully imparted to the web, by placing the yarn beam 
 perceptibly below its level, this should be done, but 
 in so small a degree as not to affect the rule in 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 69 
 
 practice ; whilst that part of the stretch under the 
 action of weaving, is carefully preserved in the 
 required line. 
 
 97« The rods g g h, for preserving the lease, 
 should be kept at such a distance from the heddles, 
 as to prevent the yarn from being either strained 
 or chaffed, in shedding. Three or four inches, will 
 be about the proper mean between these extremes. 
 
 98. From Fig. 25th it will be evident, that to 
 make the most of the smallest shed, the shuttle must 
 be brought in crossing the web to run as closely to 
 the heddles, as the lathe can be made to permit it. 
 That portion, therefore, of the sole, behind the reed, 
 or from the groove e towards the heddles, as seen in 
 the section of the plan of the lathe, Fig. 13th, page 
 31, must be narrow, in no case projecting beyond 
 the swords. 
 
 99. Now, as the resistance of the weft shot in 
 most kinds of weaving, is sufficiently overcome by 
 working the lathe on the principle of the pendulum, 
 rather than according to the impulsive momentum 
 of the hammer; and as the weft shot, in lawn weav- 
 ing especially, offers very little resistance to the 
 lathe, the chief object in its construction is to gain 
 
 firmness with lightness in action, so as to be un- 
 affected with tremor in working at any speed. 
 
 100. For this purpose, therefore, the leverage of 
 the swords should be short, but strong, and the 
 sole light. Two feet three inches from the rocking- 
 tree centre to the race, is a sufficient length of 
 leverage for the lathe ; with a strength of sword, of 
 inch and quarter by six inches ; and of sole, of inch 
 and half, by inch and half. 
 
70 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 101. As the rocking-tree forms a band and sup- 
 port to the lathe, it should be sufficiently strong to 
 resist the reaction of its motion ; and plain, at least 
 on that side by which it is attached to the swords, so 
 as not to twist them out of the parallelism of their 
 pendulous position. Shaking of the lathe in strik- 
 ing up the shot, is the inevitable consequence of 
 strain in its attachment to the rocking-tree, arising 
 from the change thereby produced in the parallelism 
 of its line to the direction of its motion, in gravit- 
 ating to the fell. Much, therefore, of the firmness 
 in action of the lathe, depends on the rocking-tree. 
 Its depth should be, at least, equal to the breadth of 
 the swords, from six to eight inches, by two in thick- 
 ness ; and to guard as much as possible against 
 warping, arising from the material, the wood of which 
 it is made, especially that of the lathe, should be well 
 seasoned, and not liable to twist or cast, such as 
 good American fir. 
 
 102. From this construction of lathe it will be 
 seen, that the intervening space between the shuttle 
 and the heddles, must be at least an inch and a 
 quarter, equal to the thickness of the swords ; and 
 as the lathe, in working, must never touch the hed- 
 dles, an additional half inch must be allowed for that 
 purpose ; making an inch and three quarters of 
 necessary space between the reed and the heddles, 
 when the lathe is fully back. The medial line of 
 the shuttle will then be very nearly as represented 
 in Fig. 25th, two inches from the heddles. 
 
 103. For very broad work, it will be foundbeneficial 
 to increase the breadth of the swords to about seven 
 or eight inches; and instead of making a proportion- 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 71 
 
 ate increase to the sole, to trust to an increased 
 strength of the pull-to or handle, to keep the lathe 
 firm in action. 
 
 104. By this mode of making the lathe, with 
 the sole light, but the handle strong, and the swords 
 short, the momentum of the leverage at the sole is 
 diminished, by which it is rendered workable with 
 less fatigue to the weaver ; and is, besides, attended 
 with this great advantage, that it enables him to 
 feel more easily the resistance of the weft shot in 
 striking it home. This consciousness of the reaction 
 of the shot is of essential importance in fine weaving; 
 and to render it as complete as possible, the weaver 
 constantly superintends with his ear, to modify the 
 force of the lathe by its sound in striking the fell. 
 But as a very small difference in its force is pro- 
 ductive of unevenness in the texture, and it is not 
 possible for any hand, however well regulated, con- 
 stantly to bring the lathe in varying circumstances 
 with the same force to the fell, recourse is had to a 
 contrivance for the purpose of weakening its direct 
 influence ; and this is done by placing the reed in a 
 spring frame, called a flyer, of which there are two 
 
 Fig. 27. Single Flyer, Fig. 28. Front View 0 f Double Fig. 29. End View 
 
 End View. Flyer without the Cap. with the Cap. 
 
 sorts. The one called a single flyer, represented 
 in Fig. 27th, permits of the motion of the reed 
 
72 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 on the upper side only; and the double flyer, which 
 it will be seen by Fig. 28th, and end view Fig. 29th, 
 is merely a small lathe within the lathe, with its 
 swords so thin, that they yield, or rebound, with 
 the reed, at every stroke on the fell. 
 
 105. The direct force, from this indirect applica- 
 tion of the stroke of the lathe, is barely equal to 
 the reaction of the springs or swords of the flyer ; 
 and these are regulated as to their tension, by a 
 thumb screw attached to each, as seen in Figs. 25th, 
 19th and 20th, according to their effect on the 
 work. But if the fabric is light, such as a book 
 or a lawn, the reaction of the weft shot is very 
 slight ; and to reduce or relax the tension of the 
 , springs to the required resistance of the shot, would 
 . ^injure their stability in action, and produce an irre- 
 gular and vibratory pulsation by the motion of the 
 lathe, injurious to the evenness of the fabric, and to 
 the motion of the shuttle; and, therefore, the weaving 
 of this sort of work even with the double flyer, with 
 anything like evenness of texture, would be a very 
 difficult thing indeed. This difficulty, however, is 
 completely removed, by a simple contrivance, ad- 
 mirable from its effectiveness, called the cord. This 
 contrivance consists merely in using a cord instead 
 of the cap, with the double flyer, to which the reed is 
 attached by small bands, as seen in Fig. 19th imme- 
 diately under the pull-to ; and as the cord is secured 
 between the swords of the lathe, and twisted in its 
 place till it is sufficiently tight to restrain the rebound 
 of the flyer, and thus keep it in a highly active, or 
 elastic state, with little reacting force, whilst, at the 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 73 
 
 same time, it permits a sufficiency of resilience to 
 the reed, to secure all the advantages sought for by 
 an indirect application of power. 
 
 106. The cord is so effective an adaptation to 
 the weaving of lawns and books, and fabrics in 
 which the resistance of the weft shot is slight, that 
 it is the only method in use for work of this descrip- 
 tion ; and so happily does it accomplish its object, 
 that the evenness of the texture is such, as to excite 
 the admiration of even those who are accustomed to 
 the work. 
 
 107. We have observed that the lathe is hung on 
 the principle of the pendulum, because this arrange- 
 ment of leverage is the most susceptible of motion, 
 and, therefore, necessary to work requiring so 
 
 an adaptation of power ; and as the most easily ap- 
 plied motion will be that in which the arcs described 
 by the lathe are equal on each side of the vertical 
 line in which it is hung, this consideration of itself 
 points out the medial line as the proper place for the 
 lathe, with the reed midway between the fell and 
 the heddles. But as the fell varies with the working 
 of the bore, and cannot at its commencement be 
 nearer the slabstock than somewhat more than the 
 breadth of the race, or about two inches, and as 
 the bore, when in, will make an additional distance 
 of an inch and a half, the medial line in which the 
 lathe is to be hung, may be measured from the half 
 of the mean length of the bore — making the whole 
 distance in this case, from the slabstock to the 
 reed, about four and a half inches. 
 
 108. It will be seen from this position of the lathe, 
 
74 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 that the arc at the commencement of the bore, mea- 
 suring from the vertical line on the side towards the 
 fell, is greater than that on the opposite one by nearly 
 a fourth of the whole length of the stroke. But as the 
 momentum is diminished in proportion to this excess 
 of motion, the force with which the lathe strikes the 
 fell, is thus in some measure equalized, throughout the 
 variations in its position arising from the working 
 of the bore. 
 
 109. The adaptation of the lathe to the motion 
 of the shuttle, is a part of its mechanism of essential 
 importance to the success of the weaver. The lathe 
 must be made so as to keep the shuttle in its course. 
 
 110. Now, as the shuttle is shot from the box by 
 the driver, it endeavours to proceed in the direction 
 of the force, which is that of the spindle and the 
 driver ; and as it is guided across the web by the 
 reed behind, and the race below, these guides must 
 be accurately placed in the direction of the shuttle ; 
 or, in other words, the reed and back boxing must 
 form a straight line parallel with the spindle verti- 
 cally, and in like manner, the race must be parallel 
 with it in the horizontal direction. 
 
 111. These are conditions essentially necessary 
 to keep the shuttle in its course; and they must, 
 therefore, be carefully preserved. These conditions 
 may, however, be secured, so as to prevent the shut- 
 tle from being thrown from its course, and yet a 
 disagreeable twist may be imparted to its motion, 
 from the obliquity or unevenness of the race groove, 
 in which the tongue of the driver runs, to the 
 spindle. This is a frequent cause of serious injury 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 75 
 
 to the yarn. The shuttle is thereby thrown in a 
 line between that of the spindle and the groove, and 
 pitching heavily against the reed, it rebounds against 
 the race, beating the yarn at every alternate shot, till 
 it is flattened at a particular place, as if struck with a 
 hammer; and before the bore is in, breakage there 
 becomes inevitable, as the yarn is literally cut by the 
 repeated strokes of the shuttle-wheels, in this manner, 
 against the race. This source of mischief is the more 
 annoying to the weaver, as the cause is generally 
 unknown. All the evil, however, will be entirely pre- 
 vented, by placing the groove in the direction of the 
 spindle — care being taken that both spindle and 
 groove are straight. 
 
 112. The shuttle will thus have a steadiness of 
 motion, imperturbable in running in the lathe at any 
 speed. But still it may be tripped by the shed in 
 its course ; or the work may be scobbed by the shut- 
 tle running under, or over, the shed; and to prevent 
 either of these accidents from taking place, the lathe 
 must be set with the race below the warp line, so 
 far only as to permit the shed to be fully formed, and 
 beveled or sloped towards the reed in accordance 
 with the angle of the shed, so that no part of the 
 yarn may suffer an undue strain from the pressure 
 of the shuttle in crossing the web, whilst its own 
 motion is likewise benefited by this adaptation. 
 
 113. It is usual to give a bias to the shuttle, so 
 as to make it in running, keep towards the reed, by 
 placing its wheels or rollers, a little obliquely to its 
 course. If this is done, it should be only in a very 
 small degree. 
 
7& 
 
 rilACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 1 1 4. The connexion of the drivers with the fly-pin 
 is made so as to fit the convenience of the weaver, 
 whose seat is in front of the loom opposite the mid- 
 dle of the cloth beam, and as near it as possible not 
 to press on it in sitting, that its diameter may not 
 thereby be affected ; and that he may have a full 
 command of himself in working, and bear lightly on 
 the treadles, he should sit as on a chair, with his 
 whole weight on the seat. In this position his feet 
 are manageable, so that he can work the treadles in 
 the gentlest manner, with the advantage of being 
 fully sensible of the resistance of the yarn in tread- 
 ling ; and as the left hand works the lathe, and the 
 right the shuttle, the left flycord should be as much 
 longer than the right, as the distance from the ster- 
 num, or middle line in which the weaver sits, to the 
 shoulder joint — or about eight inches. The short 
 fly-cord will thus permit the fly-pin to move no 
 further towards the left hand than the middle of the 
 web; but the left fly-cord, of course, is long enough, 
 with the driver attached, barely to reach to the end 
 of the box, which, in weaving, it should never touch. 
 
 115. The side cords b b, are used merely to keep 
 the fly-cords, in working, from getting entangled 
 with the shuttle or the work; but they likewise facil- 
 itate, when used as seen in Fig. 20th, the backward 
 motion of the lathe. 
 
 116. The weaver having thus loomed his web — 
 that is, having drawn it through the h eddies and the 
 reed, and tied it up ; — mounted and adjusted the 
 heddles; — hung and set the lathe; — put up the pace; 
 — fitted the drivers, and attached the fly-cords ; — 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 77 
 
 and having, likewise, dressed the neck of his web, is 
 ready to commence weaving. 
 
 117. Taking his seat, therefore, as already no- 
 ticed, close to the beam, that his work may be fully 
 within his reach, he commences, by putting his feet 
 on the treadles ; and as all the motions of weaving 
 are carried on in a certain relationship to each other 
 with regard to time, but regulated by that of the 
 lathe, its motion, therefore, is the first in order in 
 the process of weaving. Speed in shuttling is indis- 
 pensible to speed in weaving; but as its full effective- 
 ness in the production of cloth, is dependent on the 
 rate of shuttling as kept up throughout the work, 
 or, which is the same thing, on the number of shots 
 continuously thrown in for a length of time, a 
 maximum rate of speed can be maintained only in 
 so far as interruptions arising from breakage, or 
 from the performance of the motions, are as much 
 as possible prevented ; and, therefore, the motions 
 of the lathe and the shuttle, like that of the shed, 
 must be performed individually and conjointly, on 
 the principle of saving time, to the utmost degree 
 compatible with their own steadiness of action, so 
 that the yarn may thereby suffer no unnecessary 
 disturbance. 
 
 118. Now, as the stroke of the lathe on the fell 
 is the signal for the turning of the shed, and as all 
 that has been done is merely preparatory to the mo- 
 tion of the shuttle, without which it is of no avail, it 
 must be brought into play as soon as the lathe and 
 the shed can be properly formed to receive it. For 
 this purpose, advantage is to be taken of the reaction 
 
78 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 of the lathe on the fell, so as to run it back into the 
 accelerated form of motion as quickly as possible, 
 without disturbance to itself, that no time may be 
 lost in gaining a sufficient distance from the fell for 
 the entrance of the shuttle. This distance at which 
 the shuttle should be entered, may be about a third of 
 the length of its stroke, and as the lathe is then mov- 
 ing at its greatestspeed, the distance quickly increases, 
 till it has gone over about two thirds of its whole 
 length of stroke, when it runs into the retarded 
 form, preparatory to the long pause, during which, 
 the shuttle is traversing the web. The length of this 
 pause must be in proportion to the width of the work; 
 a sixth is probably sufficient, as there is a tendency 
 to angularity in the motion when the pause is long 
 kept up, productive of disturbance to the lathe. 
 
 119. It will be observed, then, from this form of 
 motion, that the lathe is accelerated from the fell 
 for about two thirds of its 
 length of stroke, and re- ^ 
 tarded during the other 
 third, in running into the 
 longpause, which extends 
 over nearly a sixth of the 
 circle, taking the space c 
 as the measure, from b to d 
 c on the line tangent with 
 the circle, as seen in Fig. 
 30th; and as the lathe Fi g- 30 - 
 should now be brought home as quickly as the shut- 
 tle will permit it, its motion is accelerated from this 
 point, till it discharges its force on the fell. 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 79 
 
 120. The chief circumstance to be attended to 
 in the motion of the shuttle, is to prevent its rebound 
 from the driver ; and as this is a circumstance of es- 
 sential importance to the quality of the work, it 
 must be completely effected. As the shuttle is thrown 
 with a jerk of the fly-pin gently given, and caught 
 by the driver on the opposite side, the slightest re- 
 bound, or even disturbance, that it may meet with 
 in entering the box, will throw the weft shot loose 
 in the shed, and purling at the selvage, from too 
 much weft being unwound from the pirn, is inevit- 
 able from this fault in shuttling. This inconve- 
 nience, however, is prevented with a little practice, 
 without much difficulty, by slightly dropping the hand 
 towards the end of the throw, so as to check the 
 shuttle as it comes into contact with the driver; and 
 if this is properly done, the shuttle will be brought 
 to a dead stand at the end of the box, so that purling 
 from its motion, will be completely prevented. 
 
 HI. Much of the easiness of motion from this 
 manner of throwing the shuttle, will, it is evident, 
 depend on the proportion of the length of the spin- 
 dle to that of the lathe ; a circumstance not suffi- 
 ciently attended to in practice; and hence the harsh 
 and heavy action in picking, so frequently met with, 
 disturbing both to the motions of the shuttle and 
 the lathe. For common widths, no spindle or box 
 should be less than sixteen inches ; and for broad 
 work, eighteen inches are barely sufficient. As to 
 the shuttle, it should not be short — never less than 
 twelve inches ; and for work of great width, an ad- 
 ditional length of two inches should be given it. 
 
80 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 122. The individual and conjoint performance 
 of the motions in shuttling in the manner here 
 pointed out, are essential to success in weaving; and 
 as they embody the principles and best practice of 
 the art, they should be strictly followed. The great 
 rule in the conjoint performance of the motions is, — 
 That the shed is to be turned on the stroke of the 
 lathe on the fell, whilst the weaver's feet are resting 
 lightly on the treadles, to keep them steady, and 
 render their action instantaneous. The projection 
 of the shuttle is the last in order, and is effected as 
 speedily as the safety of the yarn will permit the 
 other motions to be formed for its reception. 
 
 123. In fine cotton weaving, the weft shot is 
 always thrown in wet, to tighten the selvage and 
 soften the yarn, and thus, what is called a clothy 
 appearance is given to the work, which it retains, if 
 the web has been well paced. But as the contraction 
 of the cloth by the wet weft, acts severely on the sel- 
 vage splits, and besides, renders the weaver less 
 sensible of the reaction of the lathe on the fell, he 
 employs a stretching frame, called temples, Fig. 31st, 
 consisting of two pieces, usually of wood, jointed near 
 the middle by a cord, and furnished at the butt ends 
 with pin teeth, by which they are fixed on the selvage, 
 soas to keep the web stretched at its width in the reed. 
 
 1 c v^P-.- 1 ^ ' % 
 
 Fig. 31. Temples. 
 
 124. The temples are shifted as the cloth is 
 worked, every bore, but not too closely to the fell ; 
 as, by doing so, there is a tendency to press forward 
 
ON WEAVTNG BY HAND. 81 
 
 the selvages, so that something like clouding, or a 
 thickening of the cloth at each side, for a few shots, 
 is then apt to take place in the work." An inch is 
 near enough for light work. But clouding in this 
 manner, may, nevertheless, be produced by the out- 
 side reed bands, and is an indication that they are 
 
 Fig. 32. Wheel and Whisks. 
 
 too far from their respective selvages. The contrary 
 fault produces jesping, which is the counterpart of 
 clouding; and they must, therefore, be regulated 
 accordingly. About two inches will, in general, be 
 
 F 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 found to be about the proper distance at which the 
 bands should be set from the selvage. But this will 
 vary a little with the fabric, and according to the 
 tension or strength of the cord. 
 
 125. The evenness of the work is, besides, affected 
 by the weft shot, as it increases in tension with the 
 friction, towards the end of the pirn ; and the cloth 
 frequently, from this cause, gets thinner as the shot 
 runs towards the bottom of the pirn. This, how- 
 ever, will be sufficiently prevented in practice, by 
 using short pirns of a uniform length, wound in the 
 form of a cone, at an angle of about twenty. For very 
 fine weft, they should never exceed an inch and a half 
 in length, with a thickness varying according to the 
 size of the shuttle — in this case, about half an inch. 
 
 126. The pirns are usually wound by the females 
 of the weaver's family, on a wheel such as that re- 
 presented in Fig. 32nd. The yarn, in small portions 
 of about a skein or cut at a time, is put on the whisks 
 A; the pirn is stuck on the spindle, and motion is 
 communicated to it by the wheel, which is turned by 
 the right hand, whilst the left is engaged in guiding 
 the thread on the pirn, so as to build it of the proper 
 size and shape, and with as much firmness as can be 
 given it, without breaking the thread by the friction 
 in passing between the fore and middle fingers, and 
 the thumb. 
 
 127. The yarn thus managed, according to the 
 principles and practice of weaving here laid down, 
 is saved from unnecessary strain in the loom, and 
 dressed in such a manner as to have the full benefit 
 of that process. The method which thus combines 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 83 
 
 these advantages, is, therefore, peculiarly adapted to 
 fine fabrics. And as the yarn thus prepared is 
 quite able to stand the process of weaving carried 
 on in this manner, it would be a waste of time to 
 shuttle at a low speed, when the web is as it ought 
 to be for turning out the greatest quantity of cloth, 
 a result which is wholly dependent on the rate of 
 speed as kept up throughout the work. 
 
 128. The velocity, however, at which it will be 
 most profitable to weave, will vary with the width 
 of the web ; and, in practice, it will be regulated by 
 the energy of the weaver, and his command over his 
 work. But supposing his power in action equal to 
 his skill in managing the yarn in the best manner, 
 a fine yard-wide lawn need never be wrought at a 
 lower speed than a hundred shots per minute. 
 
 129. But although breakage is not a consequence 
 of speed in shuttling, the weaver may, nevertheless, 
 fail in maintaining it with advantage to the work, 
 from the inadaptation of the lathe to the speed. Its 
 momentum may be too great, and thus, fatigue and 
 encumber him in restraining it in throwing on the 
 weft. In this respect, the lathes as usually made 
 are ill adapted for speed in fine weaving. The soles 
 are too heavy, and the leverage of the sw T ords, as 
 used, is too long. The common low rate of speed 
 in shuttling on such work, is, therefore, so far a con- 
 sequence of this injudicious mode of using the lathe; 
 and in connection with the common practice of 
 working with too much motion, especially of the 
 shed and lathe, it becomes necessary for the safety 
 of the yarn. Thus a slow and timid style of weaving 
 
84 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 characterises the common practice, arising both from 
 the defective adaptation of the motions to the work, 
 and a want of sufficient skill in the adaptation of 
 the tools. 
 
 130. As the lathe is the great instrument in 
 throwing on the weft, its action, to have the desired 
 effect, with advantage to the work and ease to the 
 weaver, should be neither forced nor restrained in 
 working. Its weight, therefore, must be adapted 
 to the fabric, so as thereby to regulate its momentum 
 independent of its speed. 
 
 181. As the cord is admirable for its adaptation 
 to light and fine work in which the reaction of the 
 weft shot is slight, and capable of being applied to a 
 considerable range of fabrics by varying its strength, 
 light jaconets and mediums are wrought by it with 
 great advantage ; although, like cambrics and com- 
 mon jaconets, these fabrics are invariably over- 
 wefted, having two, three, four, or more shots over 
 even on the glass, and, in this respect, contradis- 
 tinguished from lawns, independent of the distinction 
 already noticed as to the warp. 
 
 132. But common jaconets are too heavy for it, 
 and are usually worked by the single-flyer, and 
 cambrics with the upper shell. The Manchester 
 goods, however, which pass by the same names, are 
 much heavier set, and, in general, heavier wefted, 
 than the Scotch muslins ; and hence their jaconets 
 are always wrought with the upper shell, and their 
 cambrics in the same manner, but with a very heavy 
 lathe. 
 
 133. In heavy set fabrics much over-wefted, the 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 85 
 
 reaction of the weft shot is a great draught on the 
 strength of the weaver ; and he endeavours to lessen 
 its exhausting effect, hy diminishing the friction of 
 the weft, — soaking it in soap leys ; and to diminish 
 the resistance of the warp, he frequently has re- 
 course to the expedient of raising the wheep-roll 
 above the horizontal line of the heddles and beam, 
 so that the half of the warp in shedding, sustains, 
 from this mode of working, the whole, or a very 
 considerable portion of the strain and friction, arising 
 from the throwing on of the weft shot. 
 
 134. This mode of weaving, with the roll above 
 the plane of the beams, is, therefore, severe on the 
 yarn ; and is rendered still more so, by the practice 
 of those who adopt it generally treading on the shot, 
 that is, turning the shed before the weft shot is 
 struck home. This practice is excusable only in so 
 much as the yarn thus worked is strong and coarse, 
 to be able to stand so harsh a mode of weaving. 
 
 135. Ginghams and pullicates are usually wrought 
 in this manner ; because, as fabrics with fugitive 
 colours are not generally washed in coming from 
 the loom, the treading on the shot spreads the warp, 
 as if the cloth had been wetted. 
 
 136. As the difficulty of weaving is as the fine- 
 ness of the yarn and reed to the number of shots on 
 the glass, a fine jaconet Scotch, a 27°° for example, 
 where both reed and yarn are fine, with about thirty 
 shots on the glass, is not easily woven. To get 
 through the work with effect, the yarn must be well 
 managed. The difficulty, however, lies chiefly in 
 the dressing, so as to prepare it in the best manner 
 
86 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 for working. As every little lump, or knot, on the 
 thread, is almost certain to occasion breakage at the 
 reed, from the closeness of the splits to each other, 
 the yarn, in such makes, must be very well picked. 
 Great care must be taken in this part of the process; 
 and the paste must be well prepared — of the best 
 and strongest wheat flour, and well brushed in on 
 the yarn ; and of course in greater quantity than 
 is sufficient for a lawn. The practiced eye of the 
 weaver very soon knows when the web has had 
 enough of brushing and dressing to fit it for weaving. 
 
 137. Cotton is difficult to dress. From the 
 shortness and spongyness of its fibres, it requires 
 more brushing and paste than linen, whilst silk again 
 scarcely requires any dressing at all. As its threads 
 are formed by doubling the threads already made by 
 the silk-worm, preparation for weaving consists in 
 picking it of the knots, which might obstruct the 
 shed, and then applying a little thin glue or size, 
 with a few strokes of the brush, or simply with a 
 strip of list dipped in it, and used, stretched on a rod, 
 like a fiddle bow, to harden the body of the thread, 
 and bind the filaments together. In the weaving of 
 some kinds of silk for certain fabrics, even this 
 amount of dressing is not needed ; and, of course, the 
 process varies a little as with cotton or linen, accord- 
 ing to the quality of the yarn and work. 
 
 138. In the manufacture of woollens, as the cloth 
 is woven so as to preserve the nap on its surface, no ' 
 attempt is made to lay the fibres as a preparation 
 for dressing ; and, as the reed is not fine, the yarn 
 in the raw state is sufficiently strong to stand the 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 87 
 
 weaving. The shed in these stuffs is large, and the 
 filaments on the yarn are not sufficient to prevent 
 the rising of the threads in shedding, or offer much 
 interruption to them. But as the loose fibres on the 
 yarn, by the action of the reed, would soon accumulate 
 so as to impede the shedding, this is prevented by their 
 being swept up by a cord, which is tied loosely be- 
 twixt the swords, under the upper shell, so as to 
 roll on the yarn between the heddles and the reed, 
 by the motion of the lathe. 
 
 139. This contrivance is thus used with advan- 
 tage in the weaving of most fabrics, linen and 
 cotton, in which the yarn is too coarse to need dres- 
 sing, such as sail-cloths, &c. 
 
 140. In the weaving of these heavy fabrics, and, 
 indeed, of all dry wefted work, some fringyness at 
 the selvage is apt to take place, from the facility with 
 which the weft is unwound from the pirn ; woollen 
 and linen in a greater degree than cotton, but, par- 
 ticularly, silk. Its smoothness is such, that without 
 some contrivance for increasing the friction of the 
 weft shot, purling could not be prevented. This is 
 done, however, in a manner that answers the pur- 
 pose, by merely interposing a tuft or two of hair, 
 fixed inside of the shuttle, in the line through which 
 the thread passes between the shuttle-eye and the 
 pirn. In woollen goods, purling is little attended 
 to except in mixed makes, as the beauty of the cloth, 
 in a great measure, depends on the milling and 
 dressing, in which it shrinks so much, that anything 
 of this sort disappears, or is of no consequence. But 
 this is far from being the case with cotton, silk, or 
 
88 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 linen fabrics. With them, the quality of the selvage 
 is generally taken as a test of the character of the 
 work, and care is, therefore, taken in the weaving, 
 to have it clear and clean. 
 
 141. As linen, from its wiryness, is more apt to 
 purl than cotton, some means to increase the friction 
 of the shot in coming from the shuttle, is necessary 
 to prevent it. In sail-cloth work, in which the weft 
 is very coarse and heavy, a small roller is placed in 
 the shuttle for this purpose, immediately behind the 
 eye, under which the thread runs in coming through 
 it; and, in other cases, the same thing is endeavoured 
 to be effected by the increased friction from the an- 
 gular and deflected manner in which the weft shot 
 is led through the shuttle, as seen in Fig. 33rd. 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 /In this shuttle there are two eyes, the one perpen- 
 dicular, andthe other horizontal, marked respectively 
 1, 2. The weft is taken through the perpendicular 
 one, under the shuttle, and up and out at the side 
 through the horizontal one. 
 
 142. In the weaving of these heavy fabrics, as the 
 yarn requires little care to preserve it from breakage, 
 the great desideratum is power ; and its application 
 so as to overcome the reaction of the work, in such 
 a manner as to obtain the greatest quantity of cloth 
 with the least expenditure of strength in the weav- 
 ing of it. 
 
 143. Accordingly, as a very heavy lathe would be 
 
ON WEAVING BY HAND. 
 
 89 
 
 necessary to drive home the weft on such a fabric as 
 a No. 1 sail-cloth, with 18 or 20 pounds to the spyn- 
 dle ; heavier, indeed, than a weaver could work with 
 effect, he has recourse to the expedient of giving a 
 double blow to each shot, with a lathe such as he 
 can manage — thus gaining power, but losing time. 
 
 144. In such a mode of weaving, with the double 
 stroke, it would be of less advantage to use the fly- 
 shuttle, more especially as the work is very narrow 
 — two feet generally; and hence the weaver usually 
 retains the old method of throwing it by hand. 
 
 145. Linen and silk, from the rigidity of their 
 fibres, require to be heavier paced than cotton, which 
 is a sort of mean in this respect between linen and 
 woollen ; and hence, to keep these powerful fabrics 
 firm in the loom, so as to hold the shot on the 
 blow, a very heavy pace is necessary; and the incon-' 
 venience of managing it, from its weight, has induce 
 the weaver to continue a method of tightening th 
 web by a modification of the bore-staff. The yarn 
 beam B, as is the case with the plan as seen in Fig. 
 34th, is furnished with a ratchet wheel with large 
 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 / Q ) 
 
 
 / 1 / 
 
 / 2 y 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 teeth, by means of which it is held in check by a 
 transverse sloat which acts upon it between the post 
 
90 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 A and the teeth, for that purpose. The weaver has, 
 therefore, to lift the sloat when about to draw the 
 bore. But the plan, as presented in the figure, 
 enables the weaver to manage the operation with 
 less inconvenience to himself, as he has only to press 
 down the lever D, from the upper to the under catch, 
 marked respectively 1, 2, in passing his hand to the 
 beam to draw the bore ; and the inconvenience of 
 lifting it again will be prevented, by loading the 
 short arm, or otherwise acting on the long one, so 
 that the lever may fall again into gear, on the with- 
 drawal of the hand. 
 
WEAVING 
 
 BY 
 
 POWER LOOMS. 
 
 146. Power, and the resources of art, in the 
 production of cloth, being thus exhausted, a further 
 increase of the quantity can be made, only in so far 
 as we succeed in combining the motions of weaving, 
 so as to work the loom by a cheaper and more 
 powerful agency than the human hand. This com- 
 bination of means is machinery, and leads us directly 
 to the invention of the power loom — a machine 
 which is designed to supersede hand labour in the 
 weaving of cloth, so as to furnish an abundant sup- 
 ply of one of the principal necessaries and luxuries 
 of mankind, with greatly diminished labour on their 
 part. The power loom, is, therefore, one of the 
 most important inventions that has emanated from 
 the ingenuity of man. 
 
92 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 147. The idea of inventing such a machine is 
 not of recent origin. More than a century and a half 
 ago an attempt was made, as is shown by Hutton, 
 from drawings in the possession of the Royal So- 
 ciety, to combine the motions of weaving in such a 
 manner, as to produce a power loom. In this 
 invention the shuttle was worked with a crooked 
 wire, which entered the shed, and pulled the shuttle 
 after it. The machine, of course, was practically 
 useless, and the idea of weaving by power seems to 
 have excited little notice, till it was brought out by 
 Dr. Edmond Cartwright, a clergyman of the church 
 of England, and brother of the well known Major 
 Cartwright, the political reformer — in the year 
 1785, or 1786. The Dr. happened then to be on a 
 visit at Matlock, in the neighbourhood of which Mr 
 Arkwright had erected one of his large factories on 
 the Derwent, for spinning with fluted rollers ; and 
 the extraordinary success with which his inventive 
 genius was attended, together with the beautifully 
 effective combination of machinery, as presented by 
 Watt in his steam engine, drew the public attention 
 to an agency which seemed alike boundless in the 
 creation of power, and inimitable in its adaptation 
 to art ; and this theme chanced to be the subject of 
 conversation at the public table of the inn at which 
 the Dr. was dining. Since the success of machinery 
 is so great as applied to spinning, it was asked, why 
 may it not be made to weave ? and so strongly was 
 Dr. Cartwright impressed, in the discussion of the 
 question, with the adaptability of machinery, that 
 he immediately set about the invention of a power 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 93 
 
 loom, and succeeded in bringing it out with a patent 
 in the same, or the following year. 
 
 148. Dr. Cartwright was naturally possessed of 
 great fertility of genius in mechanical creation, aided 
 by a highly finished education, and nothing was 
 wanting which an ample fortune could supply ; and 
 yet with these capabilities, he failed to render the 
 power loom effective, although with the true ardour 
 of an inventor, he spent, in his attempts to apply it 
 to practice, and in other mechanical projects, the 
 most of his fortune, £30 or £40,000, and the best 
 of his life.* 
 
 149. The Dr.'s failure with the power loom, 
 however, originated entirely from his inacquaintance 
 with weaving. He had at this time, it appears, 
 scarcely seen a hand loom, or, at least, practically 
 knew nothing about it, and imagined that nothing 
 was necessary to complete his success, but the per- 
 formance, by machinery, of the three primary 
 motions of weaving. 
 
 150. The loom, therefore, as brought out in 
 these circumstances, could not have succeeded, from 
 a want of adaptation ; and its failure convinced the 
 
 * Dr. Cartwright made an application to parliament when 
 the power loom had boen brought into use, and some years after 
 his patent right had expired, for some compensation for the loss 
 he had sustained, on the ground, that although he had failed to 
 render it successful, the loom had since become valuable to the 
 public ; and as he was backed by considerable influence, he 
 obtained a grant of £10,000, on the evidence, as to the value of 
 the invention, chiefly of Mr Radclilfe, the originator of the 
 dressing machine, and of a Mr Taylor, a mechanic, who had 
 given useful assistance to the Dr. in the working out of his plans, 
 
94 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 Dr. of the necessity of some knowledge of weaving, 
 to guide him in the contrivance of his means. Accord- 
 ingly, such an acquaintance with the subject as he 
 thought would be sufficient for the purpose, as it 
 was chiefly from observation, was soon gained ; and 
 with this preparation, he set about the readaptation 
 of his machinery to weaving, and brought out, and 
 patented, his improved power loom, in 1787. He 
 then removed to Doncaster for the purpose of 
 applying his invention to practice, but the Dr. found 
 that his difficulties were now only commencing with 
 it, when he thought he had surmounted them. 
 
 151. Machinery is not easily applied to weaving. 
 Its success in this department is dependent on the 
 quality of the motions, as to their being properly 
 performed, and the adaptation of the agency, or 
 tools, to the fabric; and neither of these requirements 
 can be judged of, nor properly conceived, without a 
 practical knowledge of weaving. This the Dr. might 
 eventually have acquired, but he never sufficiently 
 got over the difficulties attendant on the motions, so 
 as to be able to avail himself of improvements 
 which might be suggested by experience. He was, 
 therefore, perplexed by the recurrence of unfore- 
 seen difficulties, arising chiefly from the rebound of 
 the shuttle from the driver, and from its accidental 
 stoppage in the shed ; so that his attention was 
 necessarily engrossed with the means of remedying 
 this defective mode of shuttling. 
 
 152. To prevent the rebound, or rather to pre- 
 vent the purling of the cloth from it, he interposed 
 between the shuttle and the side of the box, a 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 95 
 
 small friction pulley, covered with soft leather. 
 The rebound itself was endeavoured to be stopped 
 by a hook-shaped catch, formed something like a 
 heddle-jack, and placed in the box, to vibrate on its 
 centre under the race, so that on the shuttle reach- 
 ing its destination, the hooked end rose in front of 
 the tip by the action of a lever connected with the 
 picking apparatus, and of course the return of the 
 shuttle was thereby prevented till it was released for 
 the next shot. Neither of these means was prac- 
 tically fitted for effecting its object. The pulley 
 could have little certain effect upon the purling, and 
 its liability to entangle and break the weft shot 
 rendered it wholly inapplicable to the purpose. The 
 catch, again, was unsuitable from the complication 
 in the arrangement of the contrivance. 
 
 153. From these defects alone, the loom could not 
 possibly make good work ; but the accidental stop- 
 page of the shuttle in the shed was attended with 
 still more serious consequences, as the yarn of 
 any ordinary fabric which covered the shuttle, 
 was liable to be broken should it be caught in this 
 situation, by the lathe striking on it in coming to 
 the fell. 
 
 154. The breakage thus produced, is called a 
 smash, and might require a worker a long time to 
 repair it ; the piece was thereby damaged, and the 
 next shot might produce the disaster again, so far 
 as the loom had any means of preventing it ; and, 
 therefore, unless this defect could be remedied, all 
 attempts at weaving by power were fruitless. An 
 expedient was adopted, that of slackening the web 
 
96 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 when the shuttle was caught in this situation, by 
 which the breakage was partially prevented. But 
 nothing short of a remedy for these defects in shut- 
 tling could ensure success ; and this did not appear 
 to be easily effected. Moreover, as experimenting 
 in machinery is expensive, the Dr. must have worked 
 the looms at a heavy loss ; and as his acquaintance 
 with weaving was not sufficient to prepare him for 
 what was wanted, his confidence in the successful 
 termination of his labours must have been a good 
 deal abated ; more especially as the opinion of 
 the trade itself, was almost universally against the 
 possibility of applying machinery successfully to 
 weaving. It is not, therefore, surprising, that the 
 Dr. was forced in these circumstances to abandon 
 the loom, when it is recollected, that although it has 
 been fifty years in use, it is not long since it has 
 been adapted in a proper manner, to any kind of 
 work ; and still, the fabrics to which it is applied 
 with the most success, are those which require the 
 least art in weaving — such as calicoes, heavy domes- 
 tics, sheetings, shirtings, furniture cloth, moleskins, 
 and work in which there is little apprehension 
 of breakage. In the heaviest of work, where the 
 yarn is rigid — sail cloth, for example, it has not suc- 
 ceeded; and generally in the linen manufacture, the 
 adaptation of the loom is far from being complete. 
 
 155. The extraordinary extension of cotton spin- 
 ning, however, in all its branches, fine and coarse, 
 by the happy genius of Arkwright, Crorapton, and 
 others, attended with a productiveness of nearly 300 
 fold compared with hand labour, and wholly incon- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 97 
 
 ceiveable as the result of any agency with which we 
 were previously acquainted, imparted an impetus to 
 trade, which ill assorted with the languid unproduc- 
 tive manner in which weaving was carried on by 
 hand. The manufacturer, therefore, looked with 
 great interest to the approaches of machinery to 
 weaving, as the means to work up the surplus 
 production of the spindle, and thus bring the two 
 departments of spinning and weaving into a fitting 
 state of relationship to each other. But although 
 machinery was regarded, by those who were best 
 acquainted with the manufacture, as inapplicable 
 to weaving, individuals were found sufficiently en- 
 terprising to take up a subject, which, if it could be 
 rendered successful, was likely to be so highly 
 beneficial ; and hence the loom was not suffered to 
 fall into disuse. 
 
 156. Two gentlemen of the name of Grimshaw, 
 spinners and printers, I believe of the house of 
 Taylor, Grimshaw, & Co., Manchester, took up the 
 loom by licence from Dr. Cartwright, and made 
 some improvements on it, it is said. But so highly 
 was the popular feeling alarmed by the approaches 
 of machinery, that the workmen, fearing lest it 
 should deprive them of a means of living, by dimin- 
 ishing the demand for hand labour, formed secret 
 associations for its destruction ; and the looms made 
 by these gentlemen were destroyed by fire, origin- 
 ating, it is supposed, in this manner, before they 
 were fullv tried. 
 
 157. Mankind have hitherto been much more 
 influenced by fear, than reason : — a state of society 
 
 G 
 
93 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 very unfavourable to improvement, and indicative 
 of a defective and vitiated education among the 
 people. But as the nature of improvement is pro- 
 gressive, whatever machinery may have been estab- 
 lished is safe, because it has become necessary. 
 The loom, however, was not yet in this condition, 
 and experimenting with it was hazardous. 
 
 158. But this was not the case in Scotland, 
 where we find that the power loom was at this time 
 making its way as a native invention, favoured by 
 the circumstance, that mechanical improvements 
 were suffered to be tried without risk to person or 
 property, although the opinion of the people was 
 frequently strongly expressed against what they con- 
 ceived to be the dangerous results of machinery. 
 
 159. It happened by a curious coincidence, not 
 uncommon in the history of inventions, that Dr. 
 James JefFray, the learned Professor of Anatomy in 
 the University of Glasgow, conceived the idea of 
 weaving by power, about the very time that the 
 same idea was engaging the attention of Dr. Cart- 
 wright, and brought out his power loom in I787 9 
 without being aware of what was doing in England. 
 
 160. Dr. JefFray was then practising as a phy- 
 sician in Paisley — a town remarkable above almost 
 every other for the weaving of fancy goods — and had 
 thus an opportunity of obtaining some knowledge of 
 the art, of which he availed himself in the construc- 
 tion of the loom. The loom of Dr. JefFray, as well 
 as that of Dr. Cartwright, was constructed so that 
 the shuttle and lathe were worked by the reaction 
 of springs ; and the power applied to them consisted 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 99 
 
 in repressing them, so as to bring them into a state 
 fit for reacting at the proper time. 
 
 161. Dr. JefFray, however, did not prosecute his 
 invention ; and his application to the subject was 
 undertaken in the midst of professional business, and 
 seems to have resulted rather from an extraordinary- 
 mental capacity, by which he is distinguished, than 
 perhaps, from any peculiar direction of the mind to 
 the application of machinery to manufacturing pur- 
 poses. The Dr. is, however, the unacknowledged 
 author of several machines in use ; and in one very 
 important respect, his loom was superior to Dr. 
 Cartwright's, viz. as to the means for preventing the 
 smashes caused by the stoppage of the shuttle in the 
 shed, and its rebound from the driver. This was 
 managed by a spring on the side of the shuttle box, 
 which, by its pressure, kept the shuttle from recoil- 
 ing ; and from which a motion was taken, for the 
 purpose of stopping the lathe from getting to the 
 fell, when the shuttle was accidentally caught in the 
 passage. 
 
 162. The idea of protecting the yarn from these 
 accidents was perfected by the late Mr Robert Mil- 
 ler, then manager of the Milton Print-field, Dum- 
 barton-shire, near Glasgow, who applied it so as to 
 stop the loom altogether, when the shuttle, in being 
 thrown, was prevented by any cause from entering 
 the opposite box. 
 
 163. The loom, by this means, was brought into 
 a state in which the chief difficulty connected with 
 the motion was got over, so that it could now be 
 applied to work without any risk of seriously dam- 
 aging the warp. 
 
100 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 164. This improvement, which was effected by 
 a contrivance called the protector, was patented in 
 1796, by Mr Miller, who, besides, changed the prin- 
 ciple on which the loom was hitherto constructed ; 
 substituting for the springs for throwing the shuttle, 
 the direct action of the motive power, the principle 
 on which all power looms have since been made, but 
 carried further in England, by Mr. H. Horrox, of 
 Stockport, who dispensed with the springs altogether 
 in the construction of the power loom. 
 
 165. The power loom, as brought out by Mr. 
 Miller, was called the Wiper, from the motion of the 
 shuttle being effected by eccentric wheels of this de- 
 scription ; and that of Mr Horrox, the Crank, from 
 this agency being the means for working the lathe. 
 
 166. Both of these descriptions of looms are still 
 in use, although the distinctive peculiarities of each 
 have disappeared in the common makes, which are 
 in some measure a combination of both. Thus, the 
 protector, which was so valuable in the loom as 
 brought out by Mr Miller, became indispensable to 
 the loom as constructed by Mr Horrox, where the 
 direct power of the engine, or prime mover, was 
 used, through the crank, in bringing the lathe to 
 and from the fell.* The shuttle in this case, should 
 
 * The early state of the power loom, as it appeared in coming 
 from the hands of Drs. Cartwright &> Jeffray, and the changes 
 which it underwent in being applied to practice in England and 
 Scotland, are matters that are now fast settling in obscurity. 
 No doubt Dr. Cartwright's loom can be traced by means of his 
 specifications and the drawings connected with them ; but as 
 even the last specification connected with weaving, so late as 
 1792 — 11th June, is not free from a representation of parts 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 101 
 
 it be struck by the lathe, was almost certain to carry 
 away the yarn which covered it ; but in the wiper 
 
 practically unfit for their purpose, it is not unlikely that further 
 changes may have been suggested by the Dr. although we have 
 no notice of them. The real state of the loom as it may have come 
 into the hands of the Messrs. Grimshaw, may so far be a mat- 
 ter of some uncertainty ; and so indeed is the improvement 
 which they are said to have made upon it. These points could 
 no doubt still be cleared up, but only, I apprehend, through 
 private sources ; and these are now in a great measure closed by 
 the course of time. 
 
 The state of the loom as left by Mr Horrox is better known, 
 but the various changes which it underwent in his hands, are 
 not so easily ascertained. Mr Horrox was personally unfortunate 
 in his connection with the loom, and this circumstance may 
 have had some effect in depressing the self-satisfaction that ho 
 might otherwise have had in recurring to the subject, and tended, 
 no doubt, to obscure the merit to which he is justly entitled. 
 The same feeling was doubtless experienced by Dr. Cartwright, 
 especially before he received the grant from Parliament. 
 
 The early inventors and improvers of a great subject, are 
 seldom aware of the importance of leaving the traces behind 
 them by which they endeavour to attain their object ; and as 
 their course is frequently darkened by the spirit of selfishness, 
 the true end and object of their labours are rarely appreciated even 
 by themselves. The immediate or selfish relationships in life 
 are generally enough felt, but the influence of the great univer- 
 sal nature of truth, as affecting every relationship, past, present, 
 and to come, as it points to a higher nature in man than the 
 spirit of commerce, in its present state, is capable of recognising, 
 is distinctly exemplified by very few, 
 
 Dr Cartwright has left little direct information respecting his 
 work, except what is met with in his specifications, and from his 
 literary habits and long connection with the subject, it might 
 have been expected to have been otherwise. His letter to Mr 
 Bannatyne, as published in the Encyclopaedia Britannica, con- 
 
102 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 loom, where the power of the spring only was acting 
 on the lathe, the breakage, when an accident of this 
 sort occured, was, of course, much more partial. 
 
 tains little of importance connected with his invention, although 
 the subject in itself is a highly important one. 
 
 Dr. Jeffray, again, does not appear to have taken any trouble 
 at all to preserve his invention. I am not aware that he has 
 ever even recorded it, or that it has appeared in print except 
 through myself. 
 
 The changes through which it passed in the hands of Mr 
 Miller, Mr Austin, and others, are so far known, at least the 
 looms as made by them are still preserved. A model of Austin's 
 loom may be seen at the Society of Arts, in the Adelphi, Lon- 
 don. Miller's looms are still at work in various places — in the 
 Abbey- Mill at Paisley, and in the Mill at Pollockshaws, near 
 Glasgow. Mr Miller at first set up four looms on the premises at 
 Milton, and very soon afterwards the factory at Pollockshaws 
 was commenced. The looms used there were partly Miller's 
 construction, and partly Austin's, although I believe Austin's 
 were soon set aside, in consequence of some difference at law. 
 Now it happens that three out of the four persons who wrought 
 the first four looms at Milton are still alive. Mr John Barclay, 
 the eminent manager of the Catrine Cotton Works, is one of them. 
 He was then a boy ; but before he left Milton he had the charge 
 of the power looms there, and I believe contributed to their 
 success. He is therefore necessarily intimately acquainted 
 with the loom as brought out at Milton, and the state of weaving 
 as it was then carried on there. I am indebted to Mr Barclay 
 for much minute information respecting the early state of power 
 loom weaving, as commenced by Mr Miller. 
 
 But as the object of this work, is not the narration of the 
 various changes which power loom machinery may have under- 
 gone, but the successive improvements as made upon it progres- 
 sively considered, and tested by the principles of weaving, which 
 are presented for that purpose, so that by fixing the attention 
 on what the art requires for accomplishing its operations succes- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 103 
 
 167. This circumstance of itself, gave a prefer- 
 ence, in the estimation of many manufacturers, to 
 the wiper loom, for common calico makes, even after 
 the protector was made available to both ; and this 
 preference was not wholly fanciful, at a time when 
 machinery was ill made and imperfectly understood, 
 and, therefore, liable to frequent casualties. 
 
 168. The protector, which thus established the 
 efficiency of the power loom as a machine for weav- 
 ing, is itself a very simple contrivance. It consists 
 merely of an iron rod a', of about three quarters of an 
 inch thick, with two short arms fixed on it, d c', and 
 made as seen in Fig. 35th. This apparatus is to be 
 
 t 
 
 Fig. 35. Protector. 
 
 fully, improvements are both suggested and corrected by this 
 course, so as ultimately to lead to the completion of machinery 
 as a means for weaving ; the details, therefore, connected with 
 the loom, which may be merely curious, are avoided as leading 
 into too wide a field. 
 
 Mr Barclay states that Mr Miller was not in the high sense 
 of the word, an ingenious man. That he depended much on 
 others, and acted rather on their suggestions than on his own. 
 But this, in a great measure, is as might be expected, as Mr- 
 Miller was a printer, and I suppose knew little of weaving. 
 
 But this circumstance imparted to the proceedings at Milton, 
 much of the experimental character. Project after project was 
 tried both with reference to weaving and dressing. The incon- 
 venience attending the dressing of the yarn in the loom, was 
 endeavoured to be got rid of by sizing the yarn before the web 
 was put into the loom, as a substitute for dressing, a process 
 which afterwards succeeded in Manchester by the adoption of 
 steam-heated cylinders to dry the yarn. 
 
104 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 worked by the shuttle, for the purpose of maintain- 
 ing, or disconnecting, the communication with the 
 power, according as the shuttle may be in a condi- 
 tion to require it. 
 
 169. With this view, accordingly, it is placed 
 horizontally, in this case in front of the sole of the 
 lathe, so as to vibrate on its axis, as seen in Fig. 36th ; 
 and the manner in which it is acted on will be ap- 
 parent, when it is observed that the arms are so 
 placed on it, that each of them rests against the re- 
 spective shuttle spring of each box. Now the spring 
 is so made as to bend horizontally by the pressure 
 
 V Of -the shuttle, in entering the box. It is, therefore, 
 ,<tfdrmed like the blade of a table knife, of thin steel, 
 and fixed with its flat side against the front of the 
 box, immediately above the race, and in such a man- 
 ner, that the one end projects inwards within the line 
 of the shuttle. When, therefore, the shuttle enters 
 either box, it, of course, presses back the spring, and, 
 consequently, the protector, which is resting against 
 it, follows the motion. 
 
 170. Now as to the manner in which this move- 
 ment of the protector effects the communication with 
 the power : — and this 2 likewise, is both simply accom- 
 plished, and easily understood. But, indeed, there 
 is no difficulty in understanding any machine, if the 
 individual movements of which it consists, be traced 
 out conjointly from the centre of motion ; and as the 
 protector leads us directly to the communication by 
 the power, we come at once, by this course, to the 
 source or centre of action in the power loom. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 105 
 
 Fig. 36. Front View of the Old Wiper Loom. 
 
106 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 171. According to this view, therefore, in exam- 
 ining the power loom, we have 
 
 First, to trace out the connection of the protector 
 with the power : 
 
 Secondly. The manner in which the three move- 
 ments included in shuttling are produced by the 
 machinery ; 
 
 1st, That of the lathe, 
 2nd, That of the shed, 
 3rd, That of the shuttle : and 
 Lastly, the movement of the cloth beam. 
 These are the common movements, as performed 
 by machinery, which constitute the power loom. 
 
 172. Machines are usually driven by rotatory 
 motion, as is the case with the loom, because it is 
 the most convenient mode of communicating power. 
 The lying shafts, as seen in the ground plan of the 
 factory, Plate I. are interposed to regulate the direc- 
 tion and velocity of the motion, between the prime 
 mover and the machinery. The power is thus 
 brought to the house, and the further distribution 
 of it, and direct communication with the machinery, 
 are effected by what are called drum shafts. 
 
 173. These shafts, it will be seen, receive their 
 motion by geared wheels from the lying shafts, but 
 transmit it to the machinery by belts, from pulleys 
 fixed on them, called drums. Fig. 36th is a front 
 view illustrative of this mode of communication, and 
 an end view is represented in Fig. 41 st. The letters 
 n h! g' n' refer respectively to the shaft, drum, belt, 
 and end gallows for supporting the shaft from the 
 roof. The loom is likewise furnished with a sim- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 107 
 
 ilar pulley F, and shaft, s f s 7 , placed in a parallel 
 plane below it, to receive the belt and transmit the 
 motion which is communicated by it, and, of course, 
 this shaft is the source of all action in the loom, and 
 whence all the movements originate. 
 
 174. Now, in order to suspend this action, so as 
 to stop the loom without stopping the power, it was 
 usual to make the shaft feathered, as it is called ; 
 that is, a slip of metal is let into it by a longitudinal 
 groove made in it for that purpose, as seen in Fig. 
 37th, and in an end view of the shaft, Fig. 38th, and 
 left to project above its surface, so as to key the pulley 
 loosely on it, by entering into a corresponding slit, 
 as seen in Fig. 39th, made along the inside of the 
 centre hole for that purpose. 
 
 Fig 38. Fig 39. Fig 37. 
 
 175. When, therefore, the loom was to be stop- 
 ped, the pulley was slipped off the feathered part of 
 the shaft, and thus, although it might continue to 
 revolve with the power, it had no effect on the 
 machine. 
 
 176. This slipping of the pulley off the feather, 
 is effected by a spring, e' Fig. 36th, and the object 
 in the action of the protector is to set this spring into 
 action, when the shuttle may be in a position danger- 
 ous to the yarn, or, which is the same thing, when 
 it has been prevented from getting home to its pro- 
 per box. 
 
108 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 177* The manner in which the protector effects 
 this action on the spring e'> will be apparent from 
 Fig. 40th, when it is observed that this figure is an 
 end view of the protector, representing its connex- 
 ion with the lathe, as fitted for acting on the 
 spring. One arm only, c ; , effects this connection with 
 the spring, and that arm, it will be 
 seen, is curved or bent over the 
 box, and formed of two pieces 
 hinged together. The second piece 
 V 9 is pendulous, and jointed to a 
 lever or catch, d' 9 placed at right 
 angles to it, below the sole of the 
 lathe. Fig. 40. 
 
 178. Now the weight of this hanging apparatus 
 keeps the protector arm against the shuttle spring, 
 and therefore when the shuttle enters the box, the 
 catch d' is lifted, by the pressure of the shuttle against 
 the spring, above the level of the latch f ; , so that the 
 lathe gets to the fell without any interruption from 
 it. But should the shuttle not enter the box, the 
 catch is not lifted, and the lathe, in coming forward, 
 strikes against the latch, by which the spring is 
 forced forward off the outer notch % in which 
 it rests when the loom is in gear ; and thus, as the 
 spring is made to bend both forward and laterally, 
 as soon as it is freed from the outer notch in which 
 it is then resting, it springs in towards the side of 
 the loom, against the inner notch, 1, Fig. 36th, and 
 by this movement forces the pulley off the feather, in 
 consequence of the connection between them by the 
 lever V so that the loom is thereby immediately 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 109 
 
 stopped. The distance between the two notches is 
 merely such as to allow the spring to move the 
 pulley off or on the feather, so as thereby to put the 
 loom in gear or out of it. 
 
 179. The spring is thus the handle for engaging 
 and disengaging the loom from the power, and as it 
 must bend in doing so both forward and laterally, it 
 is made, for that purpose, as seen in Fig. 36th, as if 
 two blades were joined together longitudinally by 
 the ends at right angles, or in a transverse direction 
 to each other. 
 
 180. The movements of shuttling, in the wiper 
 loom, are all directly produced from the revolution 
 of the wiper shaft. That of the lathe is easily traced. 
 We have observed that the distinguishing peculiarity 
 in the construction of the wiper loom, is that the 
 lathe is brought forward to the fell by a spring, and 
 counteracted, or taken back again, by the power. The 
 spring is seen in an end view of the loom, by the 
 dotted lines at 6, Fig. 41st, and at 6 6, in the front 
 view Fig. 36th, extending from side to side of the loom 
 horizontally, and held fast by the middle by being 
 bolted to the framing. The spring is attached to 
 the lathe at both ends, by a strap or cord 5 f 5', which 
 is passed over the roller m' 9 placed in front of the 
 sole of it to change the direction of the force in the 
 direction of the motion of the lathe. 
 
 181. The lathe is thus held to the fell ; and the 
 withdrawing of it from it again is effected by a wiper 
 or eccentric-shaped wheel or cam, as seen in the end 
 view of the loom, Fig. 41st, marked 7 7- The wiper is 
 made fast to the shaft, so as to act on a treadle w', for 
 
110 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 Fig. 41. End View of the Old Wiper Loom. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 Ill 
 
 immication changed by the roller m, in a manner 
 similar to that with the spring. The lathe is thus 
 placed between two forces, and as the treadle is al- 
 ternately depressed by the revolution of the shaft, 
 the spring brings it forward to the fell in the inter- 
 val between the depressions; and thus the vibrating 
 motion, as necessary to the lathe in weaving, is 
 produced between the action of the power and the 
 reaction of the spring. 
 
 182. The kind of motion, as proper for the lathe 
 in weaving, depends on the form of the wiper. 
 The comparative length of its long radius to its short 
 one, and the angle of inclination at which it is 
 brought to act on the treadles, determine both the 
 length of its stroke and the degree of acceleration 
 in its motion from the fell. The duration of its long 
 pause again, for the traversing of the shuttle, depends 
 on the relative length of the circular part of its curve. 
 The absciss at the termination of the curve, is made 
 for the purpose of giving freedom to the action of 
 the spring in bringing the lathe to the fell. It will 
 be seen from Fig. 36th, that there are two wipers and 
 two treadles for working the lathe ; but they are 
 made to act simultaneously on it at each end of the 
 sole, and used only with the view of rendering its 
 motion more steady in action. A bracket, it will be 
 observed from Fig. 41st, is interposed behind the 
 lathe at the end of its stroke, to prevent it from re- 
 bounding, from the action of the wiper, against the 
 heddles. 
 
 183. The movement of the shed is likewise pro- 
 duced by wipers, made more or less eccentric, 
 
112 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 according to the form as seen in Fig. 43d, to suit 
 the work. The wipers necessary in treading are 
 two, made on the semicircle, to act on opposite sides 
 of the shaft, on their respective treadles, G G, Fig. 
 36th ; and for the convenience of fixing them, the 
 two are formed together so as to make a double one. 
 As the shaft revolves, therefore, the depression of 
 the treadles is alternate ; and to prevent strain on 
 the heddles from the action of the wipers, their short 
 radius should give what their long one requires, so 
 as to render their action properly reciprocal. 
 
 184. The picking* is likewise effected by a sim- 
 ilar means. Two treadles, H H, Fig. 36th, con- 
 fined in a frame k\ to keep them steady, are attached 
 to the fly-pin, or picking-pin L, by straps, represented 
 by the dotted lines, so as to make it vibrate alternately 
 from side to side, by their alternate depression. 
 The picking-pin is placed, so as to suit this arrange- 
 ment, loosely on a stud, fixed in the middle framing of 
 the loom, in front of the lathe below the web ; and the 
 two fly-cords, or picking cords t' t', are taken down to 
 it, and attached to the top of it. It thus stands ver- 
 tically, when the drivers are in the middle of their 
 respective spindles; and of course the length of its 
 vibration from side to side, should be about the length 
 of the box, minus the space taken up by the driver. 
 This vibrating action, so as to throw the shuttle, 
 
 * The throwing of the shuttle, in connection with the other 
 two motions included in weaving, is called shuttling in Scotland, 
 and in England picking. But in weaving by power the term 
 picking is used in both ends of the Island, but restricted rather 
 to the movement of the shuttle only. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 113 
 
 must be quickly effected, more so than can be easily 
 accomplished by eccentrics as commonly made. 
 Tappets, or short arms fixed on the shaft, are there- 
 fore employed for this purpose ; or, which is the 
 same thing, the wipers themselves are made to act 
 as tappets, by fixing a stud on them, so as to impart 
 the sudden action on the treadles, as necessary in 
 picking, through the intervention of a friction pulley 
 h', as seen in Fig. 43d. 
 
 185. But as the treadles should act uniformly on 
 the picking pin throughout the length of its vibra- 
 tion, the pin is mounted for that purpose on a pulley 
 L', Fig. 42nd, as a centre to it, on which it vibrates 
 on its stud ; and the strap n n 9 from each 
 treadle, is attached to the circumference 
 of it with a small screw bolt, at the pin, 
 but of course from opposite sides of the 
 pulley, as seen detached in Fig. 42nd, 
 and in its place in the loom in Fig. S6th. 
 The stirrups x cc 9 by which the straps 
 n n are hooked to the treadles, are Fig. 42. 
 screwed and secured to them by a nut on each 
 side, so as thereby to keep the treadles at the re- 
 quired level for the action of the tappets. When, 
 therefore, the shaft revolves, the picking treadles by 
 this arrangement are struck alternately by their re- 
 spective tappets, so that the fly pin is jerked from 
 side to side, by this means, in a manner similar to 
 the movement of the fore arm of the weaver in 
 working by the action on the elbow joint. 
 
 186. Thus the three reciprocal motions included 
 in shuttling, are directly produced from the wiper 
 
 H 
 
114 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 shaft ; and so is the movement of the cloth beam — 
 but its motion is rotatory. 
 
 187. The rotatory motion of the beam is here 
 effected by the action of an endless screw. The 
 screw is fixed on an axle M, and placed horizontally 
 at the side of the loom, as seen in Fig. 41st, so as to 
 rotate in gear with the spur wheel W, fixed on the 
 end of the axle of the cloth beam. 
 
 188. Now as the lathe, in weaving by power, 
 comes up to a point or line, which is the fell, with 
 very little variation, the cloth must be taken away 
 from it as it is wrought in very small portions, of 
 two or three shots at a time, or it may be done by a 
 slow continuous motion. 
 
 189. The motion in this case is intermittent, and 
 produced by the vibration of the horizontal lever 1, 
 Fig, 41st, from its working in contact with the wiper 
 r', on the end of the shaft outside of the loom. This 
 vibrating motion is applied so as to turn the screw 
 axle M ; and this it does through the intervention of a 
 ratchet wheel M', fixed on it for that purpose, and a 
 vertical catch % to act on the wheel from the horizon- 
 tal lever. 
 
 190* The wheel is formed, it will be seen, like the 
 crown wheel of a watch, and as the catch is jointed to 
 the horizontal lever below, and placed so as to act 
 on the teeth in one direction only, every vibration 
 turns the wheel a tooth or so, according to the man- 
 ner in which it is made to act on it. 
 
 191. The thickness of the cloth, by this move- 
 ment, will depend entirely on the rate at which it is 
 withdrawn from the fell by the motion of the beam, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 115 
 
 supposing the power of the lathe equal to the reaction 
 of the weft shot. But as this rate will vary with the 
 varying diameter of the beam by the cloth, a means 
 is introduced to prevent the web from being affected 
 by it, or getting thinner towards the end of the piece, 
 as it otherwise must, by prolonging the intervals 
 between the action of the wiper on the crown wheel. 
 This action or regulating movement is managed by 
 the lathe itself, in consequence of a peculiarity in its 
 motion which is taken advantage of for this pur- 
 pose ; and that peculiarity is this, that between the 
 striking of the lathe on the fell and the withdrawing 
 of it from it, there is an interval varying according 
 to the liberty given the lathe between the action of 
 the two forces ; and the object is to render this cir- 
 cumstance the means of correcting the variations in 
 the withdrawing of the cloth within certain limits. 
 The lathe, accordingly, is set to act on the fell at the 
 commencement of the interval, where there may be 
 an allowance of some ten shots arising from it, to 
 followthe variations in the motion of the fell forward; 
 and in order to correct the excess of these variations 
 by the corresponding variations in the motion of the 
 lathe, the vertical rod 4, is connected with the crown 
 wheel catch % and set, it will be seen from Fig. 
 41st, so as to come nearly in contact with the sole 
 of the lathe in front, when it strikes the fell in its 
 usual way of working. When, therefore, the cloth is 
 withdrawn from this point or line but a little, the 
 lathe comes in contact with the vertical rod, and with- 
 drawing the catch from the crown wheel, the action 
 of the wiper upon it is interrupted, and of course the 
 
116 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 uptaking motion is suspended for that shot, and may- 
 be so, in the same manner, for the next, according 
 as it may require it. 
 
 192. The four principal motions, in weaving by 
 this power loom, are thus directly produced from the 
 revolution of the wiper shaft ; and the secondary 
 one, that of the protector, from the shuttle by the 
 action of the lathe. 
 
 193. But the individual movements must be 
 combined, so as to be produced in the proper order 
 of succession : 
 
 First, The shed should be started at the stroke of 
 the lathe on the fell, according to the great rule, ex- 
 pressed in section 75th, for the conjoint performance 
 of the motions in weaving. 
 
 Secondly, The shuttle must be brought into play, 
 to gain speed in shuttling, in accordance with the 
 rule in section 118th, as soon as the shed and lathe 
 are in a state to receive it : and 
 
 Thirdly, The protector must be set, so as to stop 
 the lathe, at such a distance from the fell as is merely 
 sufficient to clear the shuttle, should it be stopped in 
 the shed, so as to prevent breakage from it, 
 
 194. The fell is, therefore, the starting point or 
 line from which all the motions relatively spring; 
 and in adapting them for this conjoint action, the 
 lathe is set at the fell, and its treadles adjusted for 
 immediate contact with their wipers. The shedding 
 wipers are set, in like manner, on the shaft, so as to 
 be in the act of commencing to depress one of the 
 treadles. These two actions thus follow each other 
 so closely as to seem instantaneous , and are so, ex- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 117 
 
 cept as to the effect on the yarn, as some motion is 
 necessary, in working with eyed heddles, to bring 
 the two lines of threads in contact in turning the 
 shed ; but that of picking is attended with a longer 
 interval, inasmuch as the lathe and shed are during 
 this time to be put in a state for the passage of the 
 shuttle. The impulse on the picking pin is, therefore, 
 to be imparted so as to have the shuttle on its pas- 
 sage at the selvage, when the shed and lathe are 
 ready for it. The picking pulley is therefore set to 
 act on its treadle accordingly. But as some time is 
 necessarily lost in bringing the shuttle to the selvage, 
 the time 'thus taken nearly equalizes that required for 
 the shed and lathe, and therefore the interval between 
 this action of the shedding wiper, and that of the pick- 
 ing pulley is likewise short, more so than should 
 otherwise be necessary, 
 
 195. Fig. 43rd represents the relationship in 
 which they may be set for working, in accordance 
 with the rules already laid down, although the re- 
 presentation may vary a little. O' is the lathe at 
 the fell, q' the shedding wiper in the act of commenc- 
 ing to depress the treadle G. One treadle only is 
 seen in the representation, h' is the picking pulley in 
 its relative place in the circle nearly perpendicular 
 to the treadle pulley. But the position of the pick- 
 ing pulley will, of course, be varied, according to its 
 action on the shuttle. 
 
 196. The protector, again, must be set to inter- 
 cept the lathe as required, at a little more than the 
 breadth of the shuttle from the fell. The catch, 
 accordingly, is set to make the latch stop the loom, 
 
118 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 by disengaging the pulley with the spring, when 
 the lathe is at that point. 
 
 197* As the velocity of the shuttle must vary 
 with the width of the work, and the speed at which 
 the loom is driven, the impulse is adapted to it ac- 
 cordingly, by screwing the treadle with the stirrup 
 closer to the wiper, or the contrary, as the picking 
 may require it. 
 
 198. The speed of the loom, again, is directly 
 dependent on the velocity of the drum shaft, and 
 relative diameters of the drum and wiper pulley. 
 For example, if the drum shaft makes forty revo- 
 lutions per minute, and the diameter of the drum is 
 sixteen inches, the revolutions of the wiper shaft, 
 as driven from it with a pulley of fourteen inches, will 
 be forty-five ; and as there are two shots on each 
 revolution of the wiper shaft, the speed of the loom 
 will be ninety shots per minute. The question, as 
 worked, will therefore stand thus, 40 X 16 = 640 
 14 = 45 x 2 = 90 ; and the mode of the operation 
 is applicable to all similar questions, where the result 
 sought is merely the relative yelocity of two cylin- 
 ders rolling together. Some allowance of course is 
 to be made, in such cases, for the slipping of the belt 
 in working. 
 
 199. But the force of the lathe must likewise be 
 varied according to the work, and the speed at which 
 the loom is driven. Its momentum must be suffi- 
 cient to overcome the reaction of the weft shot; and 
 as this reaction varies exceedingly, in the different 
 makes of heavy calicoes, beyond the range within 
 which the same spring can be adapted to the work, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 119 
 
 the loom is much limited, on that account, in its 
 application to different fabrics. 
 
 200. This was an inconvenience which was com- 
 pensated by no advantage that such work was capa- 
 ble of receiving from the motion of springs, effected in 
 anymanner, and as they were liable to breakage, and 
 expensive on that account, it was obviously a great 
 improvement, where force was chiefly required, to 
 substitute the direct application of the motive power 
 in the working of the lathe. 
 
 201. This seems to have been the view very 
 early entertained of the subject by Mr Horrox, 
 which led him to dispense with springs altogether in 
 the construction of the loom, by applying the motion 
 of the crank to the lathe, so as to work it by the 
 direct action of the motive power. By this means, 
 he not only got rid of the springs, but of the two 
 wipers connected with them, the two treadles, the 
 straps, and the two rollers for changing their direc- 
 tion to the lathe. 
 
 202. In their stead, this new construction re- 
 quired an additional shaft, the crank, used exclu- 
 sively for the lathe, two connecting rods to attach it 
 to the swords, and two spur wheels, to work the 
 crank in gear with the wiper. One turn of the 
 crank is necessary to complete the stroke of the 
 lathe, or its motion to and from the fell; and as the 
 shedding wipers are constructed on the semicircle, 
 two shots make the circle, and therefore the crank 
 shaft revolves twice for once of the wiper. This is 
 effected by the relative sizes of the two wheels ; 
 that of the crank is exactly half the size of the 
 wiper. The crank shaft is usually the driving one. 
 
120 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 203. Fig. 43rd is a transverse section of this con- 
 struction of loom, which is called the Crank ; and as 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 43. Section of Moving Parts of the Crank Power Loom, 
 without the Frame. 
 
 it has superseded the Wiper, and is almost the only 
 one in use, it is the one with which we have espe- 
 cially to deal in the further consideration of power 
 loom weaving, o, d\ e\ f, refer respectively to the 
 sword of the lathe, the connecting rod attached to it, 
 the crank pinion, and the wiper wheel. The other 
 letters refer to parts which have been already 
 described in connection with weaving by hand. 
 
ON WEAVING BY TOWER. 
 
 121 
 
 Plates V, VI, VII and VIII, present two end views 
 right and left, a transverse section, a front elevation, 
 and a plan, of this constrnction of loom, in its best 
 state as at present used. 
 
 204. The lathe, according to this construction, 
 is limited in its adaptation to the work only by its 
 strength in resisting the reaction of the weft shot ; 
 so that within this limitation, which is wide enough 
 for common use, all that is required in adapting it 
 to different makes requiring more or less weft, is a 
 corresponding difference in the pacing, to keep the 
 web sufficiently firm to the stroke of the lathe — of 
 course the motion of the beam must be adapted to 
 the shotting. 
 
 205. The movement for the beam which Mr 
 Horrox adopted and patented, is similar to that re- 
 presented in Fig. 44th, with this difference, that in 
 his case the motion was taken from the rocking-tree 
 to the hanging catch C, instead of, as represented, 
 from the end of the marches T T, outside of the bolt. 
 
 206. This hanging catch, or bended lever, is put 
 loosely on the axle of the cloth beam, outside of the 
 framing of the loom, so that it may vibrate freely 
 by the lifting of the lower arm. This vibrating 
 motion is to produce the rotatory motion of the beam ; 
 and for this purpose the upright arm of the bended 
 lever is furnished with two catches, made to work 
 the ratchet wheel D, whose pinion acts on the spur 
 wheel E, fixed on the axle of the beam. When 
 therefore the bended lever is lifted, as is done in the 
 power loom by the sword, the ratchet wheel is turned 
 so much by the catches, and so must the beam, whilst 
 
122 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the recoil from the action of the pace is prevented 
 by the stationary catches, fixed from the side of the 
 
 Fig. 44. Dandy Loom. 
 
 loom on studs for that purpose. The weight F on the 
 horizontal arm keeps it to the motion of the lathe. 
 
 207. The motion thus given to the beam is uni- 
 form; and to stop it from going on, so as to prevent 
 gaws* from being made by the intermittent break- 
 
 * There are four descriptions of faults to which the work is 
 more or less liable in weaving, namely, clouds, jesps, gaws, and 
 scobs. A cloud, as has been already noticed, is a thickening of 
 the cloth, either throughout its whole breadth, or, as is com- 
 monly the case, at the selvage only. A jesp, on the contrary, 
 is a thinning of the cloth, or rather merely a greater space be- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 123 
 
 age of the weft shot, the weight is used so as to act 
 as a counterpoise to the pace, and the balance is 
 turned by the stroke of the lathe on the fell. If then 
 
 tween two shots than ought to be, at some particular part of the 
 web — whereas a gaw is this space continued over the whole 
 breadth of the web, or it may be partially interrupted by a 
 broken shot. A scob, again, is a blemish in the cloth arising 
 from the interruption of the threads in shedding, preventing 
 the proper interlacing of the warp and the weft. 
 
 These faults affect both hand and power loom goods, but not 
 equally so : scobbing, indeed, is equally common to both, but 
 gawing, as it arises almost wholly from an ill regulation of the 
 hand in working the lathe, to a degree beyond what is to be met 
 with in the trade, is not to be looked for in work of average 
 quality. Clouding and jesping are, however, frequently trace- 
 able to the practised eye ; and, in a great measure, arise from 
 the stoppages in working to dress and draw the bore ; as in these 
 cases, should the diameter of the beam be unequal, the line of 
 the fell is not straight, in commencing again ; and where it is 
 concave towards the reed, it will jesp, and cloud, where it is 
 convex. The weaver endeavours to prevent these faults, by 
 squeezing forward the cloth where the fell is off, and taking out 
 a couple of shots at the selvage in its being forward, as it may 
 require it. But the right remedy is true beams, placed in par- 
 allel directions to each other, and light and equal brushing in 
 dressing, that the yarn be not unequally stretched, as has been 
 noticed in weaving by hand. But jesping may nevertheless 
 take place from unequal strain on the lathe in its attachment to 
 the rocking-tree. In that case, the fell, although it may be 
 straight, will be in a somewhat slanting direction, not parallel to 
 the lathe when brought slowly forward, more especially if the 
 weaver works at a great speed. The jesping will then be apt to 
 take place at one side only, in commencing again after a stop of 
 any kind, when the lathe has not acquired its full momentum. 
 
 But as the power loom is free from the injurious effects on 
 the cloth resulting from the dressing of the yarn in the loom ; 
 and likewise from the variations arising from the bore, the 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the cloth, from the want of weft, recedes a shot or 
 two from the reed at the fell, the catches are ren- 
 dered ineffective in moving the beam further, from 
 the want of the impulse of the lathe, and the rip tak- 
 ing motion ceases. The weaver, on seeing this, 
 stops the loom ; and lifting the check catch, lets back 
 the beam so much, according as the cloth may require 
 it, and having supplied the lack of weft, it is ready to 
 begin again. This uptaking motion is uniform, and 
 to prevent the cloth from being affected by the in- 
 crease of the beam's diameter by the cloth, the pace 
 is increased towards the end of the piece, so as to 
 check the uptaking motion by the increased resist- 
 ance thus given to the stroke of the lathe. 
 
 208. Although the loom was thus brought into 
 a state capable of weaving, it was still attended with 
 no success, nor could it possibly be, so long as there 
 were no means for dressing the yarn by power. 
 
 209. Hitherto this important process was done 
 in the loom, as in weaving by hand. A portion 
 of the stretch, that from the wheep roll to the beam, 
 which was lengthened for that purpose, was reserved 
 for dressing ; and the weaver was engaged, when 
 his attendance could be dispensed with in front of 
 
 cloth is more evenly than that made by hand, although gaws are 
 more liable to take place with it than in hand made goods. 
 But jesping may, and does, take place, in the power loom, from 
 strain on the lathe in its attachment to the rocking-tree, or from 
 its connection with the crank shaft, by their not being parallel ; 
 and there is another cause which is not sufficiently attended to, 
 namely, the vibration of the drum shafts from unequal weakness 
 in working, which very injuriously affects the lathe, in case it 
 should be suffering from any strain in the loom. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 125 
 
 the loom, behind the heddles preparing and dressing 
 the warp, so as to keep time with the loom : and to 
 prevent as much as possible interruptions in weav- 
 ing from the breakage of the yarn in dressing, in 
 some instances a heavy roll was placed upon the 
 warp, above the wheep roll, so as to keep the threads 
 that might give way between the two beams from 
 coming in in the act of weaving. The yarn was thus 
 suffering the action of two processes at the same 
 time ; and was not only injured by the strain from 
 this mode of working, but neither of the processes 
 could be sufficiently attended to, nor properly done. 
 
 210. There is a total want of adaptation be- 
 tween machine and hand labour, as applied in com- 
 bination to work out the same process ; and the 
 manufacture by power looms was, on that account, 
 in a very unsatisfactory state, — it could not even 
 have maintained itself against hand competition. 
 
 211. The gain in working by machinery consists 
 in the excess of production over hand labour, com- 
 pared with the difference between the cost of the 
 agency ; and in this case, as there was one person 
 to each loom, with the expense of machinery to keep 
 up out of a production which could scarcely be 
 greater, all things considered, than a weaver could 
 produce without the machinery, the gain could not 
 be depended on. The average daily production of 
 the power loom was about 14 yards of a 10 00 even 
 wefted yard wide calico. And this a weaver, even 
 then, might have done in the hand loom — or at least 
 the difference in favour of the power loom in this 
 respect could not be much. 
 
126 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 212. The power loom was thus still in a proba- 
 tionary state, and as yet wholly unfit to work up the 
 extraordinary production of the spindle. But as the 
 return in the spinning department was great, that 
 branch of the business was engaged in by men of 
 talent and energy, who extended their business till 
 it was in some measure circumscribed by the diffi- 
 culty of disposing of the produce. Foreign markets 
 were largely supplied with English yarn. Its ex- 
 portation to the continent of Europe was very 
 great ; and likewise to America ; and some was even 
 sent to India itself. It therefore became highly de- 
 sirable to increase, if possible, the consumption at 
 home ; and the power loom was kept in use in the 
 hope of rendering it the means, which might ulti- 
 mately, effect this object. 
 
 213. But as depressions were frequently expe- 
 rienced in the trade, and some of them to an alarm- 
 ing extent, they were almost universally attributed 
 to foreign competition, arising from the exportation 
 of our yarn. 1799 was a year of great general de- 
 pression in the cotton trade, and meetings were held 
 by the manufacturers throughout the country to see 
 what should be done to mitigate the distress, and if 
 possible, prevent the recurrence of these periodical 
 stagnations, which were regarded as signs of the de- 
 cline of the British trade. It was urged at these 
 meetings, that as the foreign cotton trade depended 
 on English yarn, the sure way of cutting it up by 
 the roots was to prohibit its exportation ; or at least 
 to load it with heavy protecting duties, so as to 
 counterbalance the advantage, as to cheapness of 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 127 
 
 food, possessed by the foreign manufacturer : — and 
 that petitions and memorials embodying resolutions 
 to that effect should be immediately forwarded to 
 Parliament from all the manufacturing districts in 
 England and Scotland. No one was more zealous 
 and disinterested in advocating this policy and pro- 
 moting meetings for this purpose, than Mr William 
 Radcliffe, a manufacturer at Melor, about 1 1 miles 
 from Manchester. He officiated as Secretary to the 
 Association which was formed for carrying these reso- 
 lutions into effect, and was appointed one of the deput- 
 ies to wait on the leading ministers, to impress upon 
 them the necessity of acting in accordance with their 
 views. In this way he had several interviews with 
 the principal statesmen of the day — such as Sidmouth, 
 Castlereagh, and others, and although the deputies 
 w r ere generally very favourably received, nothing 
 w r as ever recommended to be done by the Committees 
 of the House of Commons, before whom the subject 
 had several times been brought — clearly because the 
 exportation of yarn, as of every thing else which we 
 could produce cheaper than our neighbours, was 
 advantageous to the country. Mr Radcliffe however 
 attributed the failure of his representations to the 
 sinister influence of the spinners engaged in the ex- 
 port trade ; and called another meeting to see what 
 should be done in these circumstances, when it was 
 agreed that there was no way left for them so as to 
 save the trade, but to cheapen production by the 
 application of machinery to weaving — and he again 
 offered to lead the way ; the meeting pledging itself 
 to reimburse him for any loss that he might sustain 
 
128 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 in carrying out his plans for that purpose, His ob- 
 ject was to dress the yarn by machinery, and give 
 the web out to the weaver ready for working, on the 
 beam, so as to simplify the process of weaving, that 
 it might be easily carried on, according to the cottage 
 system, at home. For the purpose of strengthening 
 himself in his proceedings, he formed a partnership 
 with a Mr Ross; and commenced his new career by 
 engaging a young weaver of the name of Johnson, 
 whom he had in his employment, and whom he knew 
 to be ingenious, to construct a neat hand loom made 
 in such a manner that the cloth beam should be 
 turned by the action of weaving, so as to prevent the 
 necessity of stopping to draw the bore. 
 
 214. Mr Johnson was an engineer by nature ; — 
 indeed mechanical invention was the peculiar mode 
 of action for which his mind was best fitted ; and he 
 entered upon the work which Mr Radcliffe pointed 
 out, with a devotion that knew no bounds. The 
 loom as required, was constructed by him in a satis- 
 factory manner ; and some hundreds of them were 
 made, and put up in a factory of Mr RadclifFe's at 
 Stockport, for the purpose of training the people to 
 this new mode of weaving, preparatory to their be- 
 ing used by them in their own houses. 
 
 215. The loom thus invented by Mr Johnson is 
 known in the trade by the name of the Dandy Loom, 
 and effects almost all that can be done for the hand 
 loom as to motion. 
 
 216. The movement of the cloth beam was 
 effected by wratchet wheels, to which motion was 
 given by a hanging catch, from a lever attached at 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 129 
 
 right angles to the upper extremity of the swords of 
 the lathe, above the centres, in a manner similar to 
 that already described as belonging to the power 
 loom ; and indeed the principle part of that motion 
 was borrowed from this loom by Mr Horrocks* of 
 Stockport, as an application to the power loom. 
 
 217. The dandy loom has been, and is yet, a good 
 deal used in the factory system for coarse goods : 
 but as the motion of the beam effected in this man- 
 ner, to some extent disturbs the lathe in its action, 
 and, besides, renders the weaver less sensible of the 
 reaction of the weft shot, it is felt as an incumbrance 
 on the hand, and not, therefore, adapted for fine 
 weaving. Fig. 44th, page 122, is a representation 
 one of of the best forms of this kind of loom. 
 
 218. The great difficulty, however, in carrying- 
 out this plan of manufacturing, lay in devising 
 the means to dress the yarn by power. Mr Johnson 
 proposed and tried the application of cylindrical 
 brushes made to revolve on their axles, so as to 
 dress the yarn by drawing it over the top of them. 
 But as the breakage from the action of the cylin- 
 drical brushes was considerable, it was discontinued 
 on that account ; although it was afterwards rein- 
 vented and patented by a Mr Quinten Macadam, 
 a Manufacturer in Glasgow, since which it has con- 
 tinued in use, under the name of the circular dress- 
 ing machine. But the principle of circular brushing 
 is defective ; and this will be obvious when we con- 
 sider that, as the object of brushing is to lay the sur- 
 face filaments of the thread in the direction of the 
 
 * This name was previously printed Horrox, by mistake. 
 
 I 
 
130 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 yarn, the application of circular brushing for this 
 purpose is an attempt made to act on the yarn in 
 straight lines by the arcs of a circle ; and as this is an 
 impossibility, the filaments, therefore, cannot by this 
 action be laid in the required direction. 
 
 219. There is only one point in circular brushing, 
 viz., when the staples in action are at right angles 
 to the yarn, that the brushing is in the proper direc- 
 tion ; and although the filaments may have been laid 
 by this right angular action, they are again ruffled by 
 the oblique direction of the bristles in entering the 
 warp, — just at the time too that the yarn is passing 
 from the brush in a finished state : and, moreover, as 
 the brushes, to be effective, must revolve at a consider- 
 able speed, there is thereby communicated to the yarn 
 a tendency to follow this motion ; and the filaments 
 which are raised by the obliquity of the bristles in 
 leaving the warp act as handles by which the threads 
 are pulled in the direction of the brush. This mode 
 of brushing is, therefore, very ineffective from its 
 obliquity, and severe on the yarn from the form of 
 the motion. 
 
 220. As the proper motion of the hand in brush- 
 ing partakes of neither of these defects, it was 
 therefore attempted to be imitated : but at first sight 
 it did not seem likely to be easily effected. Mr 
 Johnson, however, who was called upon to devise 
 means for the removal of all the mechanical difficul- 
 ties as they occurred, and on that account passed in 
 the work by the name of the conjurer, has the merit 
 of accomplishing this movement also. 
 
 221. He placed the brush, which, of course, was 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 131 
 
 a little longer than the breadth of the web, trans- 
 versely on a frame, so as to slide, in the direction of 
 the yarn, on two spindles, one supporting it at each 
 end, and communicated the stroking motion to it, by 
 which it brushes the yarn, from a crank. 
 
 Fig. 45. Side View of Dressing Machine, without the Framing. 
 
 222. But as the brushing is to be double, so as to 
 act alternately on the upper and under sides of the 
 warp, two brushes of course are used for that purpose, 
 and placed on spindles in different planes, with their 
 faces towards each other, and the warp line between 
 them, as seen in Fig. 45th, and in the side views 
 of the machine, Plates III. and IV. a a is the 
 brush frame, b b the ends of the brushes, c c the warp 
 line ; and the manner in which they are fitted for 
 working alternately on the yarn, will be apparent 
 from this representation, when it is observed that they 
 are connected together by the strap d which passes 
 over and embraces the two pullies e e, placed singly 
 between the opposite ends of the two pairs of spindles 
 on which they slide. Motion, as communicated to 
 
132 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 either of the brushes, according to this arrangement, 
 will move them in opposite directions, from the 
 one pulley towards the other ; but as they must 
 act on the yarn in one direction only, they are 
 lifted alternately out of the warp line, at the ter- 
 mination of the stroke, so as to allow each brush to 
 act on the yarn in the direction towards the end of 
 the frame. 
 
 223. For this purpose the brush frame is placed 
 in the frame of the machine, so as to vibrate on its 
 centre like the beam of a balance, that the brush 
 may thereby, be raised out of the warp line at the 
 termination of its stroke; and it must be kept raised, 
 clear of the yarn, whilst the other brush, which has 
 been brought into action by the same vibration, is, in 
 like manner, completing its stroke on the opposite 
 side of the warp. 
 
 224. This motion, by which the brush frame is 
 raised in this manner, is effected by two pairs of 
 eccentrics, acting alternately in pairs, on opposite 
 ends of the brush frame ; and the manner in which 
 this is done will be evident from the plan of the 
 machine presented in Plate II. A A, is the machine 
 frame ; a a the brush frame ; b b are the upper brushes 
 on the upper spindles ff, at each end of the frame ; 
 k f k f the two eccentric shafts ; k k the eccentric 
 wheels, better seen in the side elevation of the 
 machine, Fig. 45th, and so placed on their respec- 
 tive axles, that the increase and decrease of their 
 relative action are reciprocal, as seen from their 
 position in the figure. 
 
 225. This machine, from the manner in which 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 133 
 
 the brush is worked, is called, in contradistinction 
 to the Circular, the Crank dressing machine ; and 
 in both the Circular and the Crank, the warp, to in- 
 crease the facility of the brushes in getting through 
 it, is always put into the machine in two portions ; 
 one or more reels containing the half of the warp 
 are put in at each end of the machine, and the united 
 portions making the whole web, are wound from 
 them, on the yarn beam of the loom v % which has 
 been put in the machine for that purpose, in the act 
 of being dressed. 
 
 226. Each half of the warp is thus dressed 
 singly, but at the same time, in passing separately 
 to the yarn beam where they are united ; so that 
 the machine consists of a double apparatus for 
 dressing, worked from a common centre. The 
 pulley shaft a f , which receives its motion from 
 the power, seen in the plan of the machine, Plate 
 II. and one of the side views, Plate IV. is the centre 
 from which all its motions proceed. 
 
 227. These motions, as essential to dressing, 
 are the two in brushing — the stroking, and lifting ; 
 — the applying of the paste ; — and the drying of the 
 yarn. The winding of the warp on the beam, and the 
 measuring of the quantity as done, are properly 
 secondary motions, — making six in all as included 
 in dressing by power. Of these, the driving shaft v! 
 directly produces but one, viz. the motion of the fan 
 for drying the yarn ; and the crank shaft r one di- 
 rectly, — the stroking of the brush ; and three in- 
 directly, — the lifting of the brush, — the applying of 
 the paste, — and the motion of the beam. The mea- 
 
134 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 swing of the yarn is done by the motion of the web 
 itself in passing to the beam. 
 
 228. As the movements dependant on the crank 
 are much slower than that of the fan, the motion of 
 the driving shaft, as communicated to the crank, is 
 diminished accordingly by the difference in the size 
 of the respective spur wheels by which they are con- 
 nected. That of the driving shaft is 40 teeth, and 
 that of the crank shaft with which it works in gear 
 is 120. 
 
 229. The crank shaft is made, like that of the 
 loom, with two cranks, one on opposite ends of the 
 shaft, and from the same side to act in the same di- 
 rection. The throw is five inches, and the stroke of 
 the brush, as worked from it, is about twentytwo. 
 This difference between the motion of the crank and 
 the brushes is made up in the communication by the 
 leverage of the side vertical levers. There are two 
 of these levers, one of course to each crank, and at 
 opposite sides of the machine. Each lever has thus 
 two connections to maintain, one with the crank, 
 from which it receives its motion, and one with the 
 brushes, to which it communicates it. 
 
 230. This double communication of the side ver- 
 tical levers is well seen in Fig. 45th, as it is a side 
 view of the dressing machine without the framing ; 
 and, likewise, although less distinctly, in the two op- 
 posite side views in Plates III. and IV. t is the 
 vertical lever, r the crank, s its connecting rod, and 
 x the brush frame connecting rod. The length of 
 the arc described by the radius of the lever is the 
 length of the stroke of the brush. The brush con- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 135 
 
 necting rod is therefore attached to the top of 
 the lever, and the crank connecting rod at such a 
 distance from its centre as is sufficient to give the 
 required length of stroke for the brush. The slit in 
 the lever is left for the adjustment of the motion, 
 that the stud of the connecting rod may be fixed at 
 the proper place for producing it. 
 
 231. It will be seen that motion is to be com- 
 municated simultaneously to the brushes at both 
 ends of the machine, and for that purpose the under 
 stocks, on which the brushes rest, are connected to- 
 gether, so as thereby to form a frame in the figure 
 of a parallelogram. 
 
 232. Now it is to the opposite sides of this fram- 
 ing, which may be called the stock frame, that the 
 respective brush connecting rods are attached. The 
 stock frame is seen in the plan of the machine, and 
 a side view of it in Fig. 45th ; b b may be taken to 
 represent the stocks forming the ends of the frame, 
 and q the side to which the one connecting rod is 
 attached. Both sides q q are seen in the plan, with 
 their respective connecting rods x x. 
 
 233. By this arrangement, it is clear that the 
 brushes at each end of the machine will be slidden 
 backward and forward on their respective spindles, 
 by the throw of the crank, in opposite directions ; 
 but as they must slide on the yarn in one direction 
 only, they are lifted out of it alternately for that 
 purpose by eccentrics; and this action is accom- 
 plished by the intervention of three shafts — a vertical, 
 and two horizontal ones. The two horizontal ones 
 run from end to end of the machine, except where 
 
130 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 they are separated at the middle to receive the com- 
 munication from the crank shaft by the vertical 
 one. This communication is effected by bevel gear- 
 ing, as the action throughout is rectangular in its 
 direction. 
 
 234. Plate IV. presents a good view of this com- 
 munication of the crank shaft with the eccentric 
 one. The vertical shaft l\ it will be seen, receives 
 its motion from the crank one by the bevel wheel 
 f, and transmits it to the horizontal one by the 
 bevel wheel g'. The two horizontal ones, h' h' in like 
 manner, by the same sort of gearing, convey it to 
 their respective eccentric shafts, r' r f . 
 
 235. The eccentric shafts, it will be seen from 
 the plan in Plate IV. extend from side to side of the 
 machine like the crank ; and that they may act on 
 the brush frame without straining it, two eccentrics 
 are put on each shaft, and set immediately under the 
 opposite ends of the frame, to act together in the 
 same direction ; but the shafts themselves are set 
 to act on the brush frame in opposite directions, at 
 the respective ends of the machine ; so that when 
 the one shaft is lifting the frame at the one end, the 
 other by the reverse position of its eccentrics is 
 permitting its descent. The relative position, in 
 which they are placed for this action, is seen in the 
 side views, more especially in Fig. 45th. 
 
 236. The application of the paste to the yarn is 
 effected by rollers. Two are used for this purpose, g, 
 h, to each portion of the warp, and placed immediately 
 above each other, in a horizontal direction, across 
 the machine, near the termination of the stroke of 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 137 
 
 the brushes, in front of the reels o o, on which the raw 
 yarn is wound. The yarn from the reels is led 
 through between the two rollers in its way to the 
 beam in the middle of the machine. The two rol- 
 lers lie together in contact, with the yarn between 
 them ; and as the under roller is half sunk in a 
 trough filled with paste, the paste is applied to the 
 yarn merely by the rotation of the rollers, in its 
 passing to the beam. 
 
 237. Motion for this purpose is applied to the 
 under roller only, as the upper one, by lying upon it, 
 revolves with it; and this is done directly from the 
 eccentric shaft with a pinion and spur-wheels work- 
 ing in gear. 
 
 238. This gearing is well seen in the side view , 
 of the machine, Plate III. It will be observed from\ 
 it that the speed of the eccentric shaft, as applied to > 
 the rollers, is diminished by it ; and, therefore, the 
 pinion is put upon the eccentric shaft, and the 
 other wheel and pinion between it and the wheel 
 on the axle of the under roller are interposed to 
 regulate the velocity as communicated to it. 
 
 239. By this means the yarn is brought forward 
 by the revolution of the rollers, coated with paste, 
 and the brushes meet it towards the end of the 
 stroke, and rub the paste into the yarn over the 
 range of their action. The pinion of the eccentric 
 shaft has 16 teeth, and that of the intermediate one 
 16 likewise. The two wheels have each 80 teeth ; 
 and as the diameter of the rollers is 4^ inches, the 
 delivery of the yarn accordingly will be nearly § ths 
 of an inch to each stroke of the brush. The move- 
 
138 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE. 
 
 merit as expressed in figures, may stand thus — 
 80 -j- 16 = 5 
 80 16 = 5 
 
 25 and the circum- 
 ference of the rollers, say 14 inches, divided by 
 25, = .56. 
 
 240. The yarn is thus delivered to be wound on 
 the beam in a measured quantity, which is varied 
 according as it may require more or less brushing 
 to fit it for weaving, by changing the pinion <z, so 
 as to give more or less motion to the rollers, ac- 
 cording as it may be necessary for that purpose. 
 
 241. The motion thus imparted by the gearing 
 is uniform, but the motion of the beam itself must 
 be proportionally decreased as its diameter increases 
 by the yarn, to equalize the uptaking of the warp ; 
 and this is accomplished by rendering its motion 
 dependant on friction. It is so arranged that the 
 beam cannot get more than is given it by the rol- 
 lers, and when its rate exceeds their delivery, a 
 slipping takes place between the motion as received 
 from the vertical shaft, and the motion as communi- 
 cated to the beam. Two views illustrative of this 
 motion are given in Plate IV. The first is the side 
 view of the machine, which represents the motion 
 as transmitted by the vertical shaft from the crank, 
 and the second is a view of the communication of 
 the vertical shaft with the beam. 
 
 242. The vertical shaft runs its uniform rate of 
 motion through its pinion of 20 teeth, and the inter- 
 posed bevel wheel of 40, and its pinion of 20, on to 
 the plate spur-wheel of 90 teeth, at which the slip- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 139 
 
 ping takes place. This slipping is effected by inter- 
 posing a disc or collar shielded by oiled pasteboard 
 or cloth, between the wheel and the two pinching 
 screws / I. The beam is placed in the plane of the 
 axis of the plate wheel, with the one gudgeon in the 
 socket of the catch, and its stud, as seen in the plan 
 of the machine, Plate II, entered into the end of the 
 beam. The motion thus communicated to the beam 
 will be resisted, so as to produce slipping, by the 
 tension of the yarn, as it is wound upon it, accord- 
 ing as the pinching screws, by their pressure, keep 
 the friction surfaces of the plate-wheel and its col- 
 lar together. The delivery of the warp is thus 
 directly dependant on the motion of the rollers, and 
 the tension, on the friction of the plates. 
 
 243. As weight or pressure on the yarn, between 
 the rollers, is necessary to its regular delivery, as 
 well as to maintain the required tension of the warp 
 in dressing, the rollers are made heavy ; — of cast 
 iron with malleable axles turned on their journals ; 
 and to prevent oxidation from the paste, closely cased 
 in copper, and fitted for work by being covered with 
 a thick roll of woollen cloth sewed firmly on their 
 circumferance. The paste is thus retained on the 
 surface of the rollers ; and the yarn in passing be- 
 tween them is imbedded in the dressing. 
 
 244. But the quantity of dressing, as applied to 
 the yarn, must be regulated, as well as the brushing ; 
 and this is effected by regulating the pressure be- 
 tween the two rollers. For this purpose, a pace 
 lever m is hung from the journal of the upper roller, 
 on each side, as seen in the side views of the ma- 
 
140 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 chine ; and loaded, so as to regulate the quantity of 
 paste between the rollers, as required in dressing, 
 according to the quality of the yarn, or the fabric 
 intended to be made from it. 
 
 245. It will be seen by a reference to either of 
 the side views, that the warp line is preserved in 
 the direction of the brushes, by the lower dressing 
 rollers, at each end of the stretch towards the reels ; 
 and at the other two, towards the middle of the ma- 
 chine, by the wooden rolls, w w; and that the beam is 
 elevated above the plane of the brushes, to get a suffi- 
 ciency of space for the convenience of drying the 
 yarn, before it reaches it, without lengthening the 
 machine for that purpose. 
 
 246. The drying is effected partly by heat from 
 steam pipes, and partly by the removal of the damp 
 atmosphere by fans. There are two fans in the ma- 
 chine under consideration, one to each half of the 
 warp ; and these are seen from the end, in the side 
 views, Plates III. and IV. ; and from the front, in 
 the plan, Plate II. From these views, it will be seen 
 that the fan consists of a shaft p extending from side 
 to side of the machine horizontally, and turned at its 
 extremities, so as to rotate in its bushes. The shaft is 
 furnished with two arms, fixed upon it at right an- 
 gles, for supporting a leaf or board y y on each side 
 of its diameter, (as seen in all the views of the ma- 
 chine,) with which it strikes the air as it rotates in 
 its axle. The rotation of the fan is effected by a 
 strap l', from a pulley m ! fixed on the driving 
 shaft, and a corresponding one, of course, on the 
 shaft of the fan. Both of the fans are driven in 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 141 
 
 the same manner, but from opposite sides of the ma- 
 chine, and therefore they have each their respective 
 pulley on the driving shaft. As the action of the 
 fan must not be directed against the yarn under the 
 brushes, a screen n' n' is interposed at that part of the 
 machine behind each fan, to prevent it from affect- 
 ing the yarn there. 
 
 247. The steam pipes are powerful auxiliaries to 
 the fan in drying the yarn. Three branches are 
 usually used in the machine for that purpose ; one 
 near each fan, and the other between the two 
 divisions of the warp, where they turn up from the 
 rollers to the beam. 
 
 248. The warp is measured in the machine, in 
 the lengths in which the pieces are intended to be 
 woven, by the larger roll iv, as it is turned by the 
 friction of the yarn in passing under it. As its dia- 
 meter is known, so many revolutions make a piece ; 
 and these are indicated by the horizontal spur-wheel 
 o r , which is worked from the worm p f , on the axis of 
 the roll w. The number of teeth therefore is a 
 measure of the yarn ; and one revolution makes a 
 piece. When this has been done, to prevent it from 
 being overlooked, it is made to tingle a bell q f , by 
 touching the spring on which it is hung with the 
 steady pin fixed in the periphery of the wheel 
 for that purpose. 
 
 249. This description of the dressing machine re- 
 fers to it as it is now used, rather than as patented 
 by Mr Johnson, for Mr RadclifFe As Mr Johnson 
 left it, the paste was applied by one roller only ; and 
 the yarn was drawn over it, in being dressed, by 
 
142 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the rotatory motion of the beam. It was therefore 
 strained from the length of the stretch, in which it 
 was exposed to this traction ; and unequally sup- 
 plied with paste, by receiving it from an exposed 
 surface, as the absorption was thereby partially pre- 
 vented, 
 
 250. These defects were severely felt by Mr 
 Johnson ; and considerable as was the annoyance 
 from the breakage of the yarn by the traction, the 
 application of the paste in this manner was attended 
 with the still more injurious consequences from 
 plaiting. This tendency of the threads to run to- 
 gether in twists directly arises from the drying of 
 the yarn unequally, chiefly from its being unequally 
 supplied with paste ; and so much was Mr Johnson 
 impressed with the difficulty of working the machine 
 so as to prevent plaiting, that he endeavoured to 
 dissuade Mr Radcliffe from proceeding any further 
 with this new mode of manufacturing, as it was 
 likely to be attended with a useless expenditure of 
 money. Mr Radcliffe however was full of confi- 
 dence as to the success of the result ; and Mr John- 
 son continued to do his endeavour to bring it to 
 pass. The expedient of using reeds of different 
 fineness, through which the yarn was drawn, so as 
 to keep the threads apart, was tried ; and with so 
 much success as to encourage them to proceed with 
 it. But still there were serious inconveniences at- 
 tending the use of reeds in this manner, from their 
 ruffling the fibres of the yarn by their friction, and 
 from their liability to get clotted with the dressing; 
 and with the view of obviating these inconveniences, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 143 
 
 and preventing plaiting by completely isolating the 
 yarn, the late Archibald Buchanan, Esq., of Catrine 
 works, employed a copper plate, in place of them, 
 with a hole drilledfor each thread, through which the 
 yarn was individually drawn — and this means for that 
 purpose still continues in use. The plate, of course, 
 is a little longer than the breadth of the web ; and 
 the holes are placed in rows diagonally, as seen in 
 Fig. 2d, Plate II., and marked s' in the several 
 views of the machine. 
 
 251. But the great improvement in dressing by 
 the machine was the substitution of the double rol- 
 lers ; and Mr Buchanan likewise was the first to 
 originate and apply it to practice. By this means 
 the yarn, by being imbedded in the paste in its pas- 
 sage from between the rollers, is placed in the most 
 favourable situation for saturating itself with the 
 dressing, and, therefore, has the chance of being 
 more uniformly supplied with paste ; and so far as 
 that is accomplished, the yarn is not only better 
 when dressed, but the tendency to plaiting during 
 the process, is thereby proportionally diminished. 
 
 252. The lease of the yarn is preserved in the 
 machine by a set of heddles v\ placed to slide hori- 
 zontally in the framing, a little below the beam, 
 with one thread from each half of the warp drawn 
 alternately through each of the two leaves. 
 
 253. Thus the dressing machine, so essential to 
 the power loom, was brought out by the enterprise 
 of Mr Radcliffe, and his own mode of manufacturing 
 established by it. But he was far from being for- 
 tunate as a manufacturer. This, however, is attri- 
 
144 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 butable rather to his personal character than to the 
 expense he incurred in originating and maturing his 
 machinery. As he engaged in the enterprise from 
 a notion of the necessity of originating some such 
 mode of manufacturing, to meet foreign competition, 
 by which he thought our trade in piece goods was 
 depressed, arising from the vast exportation of our 
 yarn to countries in which hand labour was relatively 
 cheap, he regarded the spinners who supplied the 
 foreign market as fostering a traffic for selfish ends 
 destructive of the public good ; and in his public 
 addresses, and in pamphlets which he published on the 
 subject he characterized them as the hirelings of 
 foreign interests, suffered to carry on a trade which 
 they knew to be ruinous to the country, only from 
 their power in bribing or quieting a feeble 
 administration. 
 
 254. Mr RadclifFe was of opinion that yarn was 
 not in a sufficiently manufactured state to admit of 
 its being exported under the name of manufactured 
 goods ; and that, by prohibiting it altogether, a 
 greatly increased trade would be raised at home, 
 from the employment which would thus he given to 
 our people in manufacturing it into cloth, that the 
 foreigner would be obliged to buy, when he could 
 not get the yarn. 
 
 255. This result, from the prohibition of our 
 yarns, was regarded by Mr Radcliffe as a self evident 
 proposition, and, as he was highly honourable him- 
 self, from constitutional temperament, he threw a 
 great deal of unnecessary acrimony into the contro- 
 versy, arising from the motives which he thought 
 actuated the opposite party. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 145 
 
 256. Mr Radcliffe was ill fitted for reasoning. 
 He lacked comprehensiveness, and had little regular 
 training, by which it could be much assisted. His 
 activity with his narrowness of perception, therefore, 
 hurried him into conclusions inconsistent with fact ; 
 and there was thus a total want of maturity of 
 thought in his views. His decision of character, 
 however, was great; and as he had considerable per- 
 ception and shrewdness, and a sufficiency of intelli- 
 gence to render his statements effective, his energy 
 and moral courage made an impression on the public, 
 which his views considered by themselves, without 
 reference to his advocacy of what was supposed to be 
 the rights of native industry, could not have effected. 
 
 257. This mode of proceeding, however, created 
 him many enemies ; and some of the wealthy spin- 
 ners are supposed to have taken advantage of an 
 unfavourable turn in trade to whisper down his 
 credit. At all events a run was made upon him ; 
 and he met it by converting all his available means 
 into cash, and was thereby enabled to pay about 
 £30,000 in a few months ; but he was at length ob- 
 liged to stop, although the balance which was then 
 against him was not heavy. This balance, however, 
 was paid in full, except some comparatively small 
 sums, towards the last, which were paid with 18s. 
 in the pound. 
 
 258. Mr Jones, the banker, of Manchester, and 
 Mr Duckworth and some few friends, set him up 
 again ; but he never recovered himself, and died 
 a few years ago at Stockport. Mr Johnson was 
 more fortunate, I believe, inasmuch as he made 
 some money in business. 
 
 K 
 
146 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 259. The difficulties attending the application 
 of a new invention are not always wholly attribu- 
 table to the machine, as much of its success in prac- 
 tice frequently depends on the state of the material 
 submitted to it, as best fitted for its action ; and this, 
 in a high degree, was the case both with the power 
 loom, and the dressing machine. 
 
 260. The chief difficulty in dressing, either by 
 hand or power, is in applying the paste, so as to get 
 it to act properly on the yarn ; and not a little of 
 the difficulty is attributable to the state of the yarn 
 itself, as there is in all cotton more or less of an es- 
 sential oil, which, in so much as it is present, resists 
 the paste. 
 
 261. In weaving by hand, the oil is endeavoured 
 to be removed by boiling tbe warp in the chain* for 
 a few hours in water ; and in order to strengthen 
 the yarn after being boiled, it is put in a copper of 
 very thin boiling paste or starch ; and that portion 
 which is not absorbed is expressed from it again by 
 drawing the warp through the bore of a brass plate, 
 fixed in a frame for that purpose. 
 
 * The words, warp, web and chain are all used as referring 
 to the same thing, but understood in a special sense as appli- 
 cable to different stages of the manufacture. The web is a 
 general term ; and is used in reference to the web in the woven 
 or unwoven state. But the warp is specific, and is used as con- 
 tradistinguishing the one portion of the web from the other, or 
 the warp from the weft. The chain, again, refers to the warp 
 only as it comes from the warping mill, before it is beamed for 
 weaving. The yarn is the material in a state either for warp or 
 weft ; and a thread is an individual portion of the yarn referred 
 to. The yarn, however, for warp and weft is never mixed, 
 because as the warp sustains the strain of weaving, it is made of 
 better material, and with more twist than is necessary for the weft. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 147 
 
 262. This process is called starching the web ; 
 and is almost universally resorted to by hand weav- 
 ers, — except where colours may be affected by the 
 boiling — as a preparation for dressing. But in 
 weaving by power, as the yarn is wound on the reels, 
 for dressing, directly from the bobbin, as it comes 
 from the spinner, starching in this manner is not 
 adapted to this mode of manufacturing — and much 
 of the difficulty in dressing by the single roller must 
 have arisen from the state of the warp as effected by 
 the oil. For although plaiting might not proceed 
 from this cause alone, much more brushing was 
 neccessary in consequence of it, to get the paste to 
 act on the yarn so as to fit it for working. But in 
 dressing with the two rollers, the yarn in passing 
 between them is imbedded in the paste, and must 
 absorb a portion of the thinner part of it, and thus 
 form a ground on which the brush can act with in- 
 creased facility in laying on the more substantial 
 part of it. The double rollers are therefore a great 
 improvement in the mode of applying the dressing ; 
 and are besides necessary in delivering the warp, so 
 as to prevent the strain on the yarn by the traction 
 in dressing by the old method. 
 
 263. The benefit, however, which the yarn 
 receives from this process is so decided that it begot 
 a notion among those who were engaged with power 
 loom weaving, that starching in some modified way, 
 or sizing, was all that the yarn stood in need of to 
 fit it for weaving, as a substitute for dressing ; and 
 the attempts have been numerous to construct an 
 apparatus, so that the paste may be applied by it, 
 
148 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 and dried in such a manner, as to preserve the free- 
 ability of the yarn. 
 
 264. This idea, of sizing as a substitute for 
 dressing, originated with a manufacturer of Stock- 
 port, I believe, who was endeavouring to carry it 
 into effect, at the time Mr Radcliffe was engaged 
 with the dressing machine ; and the trade was very 
 much divided in opinion as to which of the modes of 
 preparation, dressing or sizing, was likely to be the 
 proper one for their purpose. No doubt the difficul- 
 ties attending the dressing machine in practice coun- 
 tenanced the attempts at finding a substitute for it ; 
 but the grand distinction between dressing, as to 
 its effects on the yarn, and what under any modifi- 
 cation could be expected from sizing, was ill under- 
 stood by the manufacturers themselves. Effects by 
 some were expected from sizing which dressing only 
 could impart, and dressing, again, was regarded by 
 others as unaffected by sizing. 
 
 265. The object of dressing, as we have already 
 seen, is to strengthen the yarn by incorporating the 
 filaments on its surface with the body of the thread 
 by the application of paste in brushing. But that 
 of sizing is to gain such an advantage from the 
 hardening of the thread by some sort of paste, as to 
 prevent the opening out of the filaments in weaving. 
 
 266. In very coarse work, therefore, where the 
 yarn in a raw state is sufficiently strong, or nearly 
 so, to stand the weaving, sizing, so as to prevent 
 interruption in shedding, is a sufficient preparation 
 of the warp for the loom ; and this will appear 
 evident when we consider that the loose or surface 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 149 
 
 filaments in yarn for work of this sort, are few 
 compared to those composing the body of the thread; 
 and the benefit, therefore, from their being laid with 
 paste, is comparatively little, either as to the 
 strength which it receives, or the strain which is 
 avoided, by the smoothing of the thread. But this 
 is far from being the case with fine yarn. The sur- 
 face filaments of it bear relatively a great proportion 
 to those forming the body of the thread ; — so much 
 so that the friction and traction from them in shed- 
 ding it in a rough state are insurmountable obstacles 
 to the weaving of it in a fine reed ; and the difficul- 
 ties become less in proportion as the yarn and the 
 reed in which it is used are diminished in fineness. 
 
 267. The utmost strength, therefore, and the ut- 
 most smoothness which can be given it are both 
 required as a preparation for weaving fine yarn ; and 
 this preparation can be obtained only from dressing. 
 
 268. It is evident, then, that fine yarn receives a 
 greater accession of strength in dressing than coarse 
 yarn, and it needs it, to fit it for the increased 
 tear and wear which it suffers in weaving. Hence 
 dressing and sizing do not interfere with each other, 
 and are merely modifications of means for effecting 
 the same end ; but adapted to different qualities or 
 numbers of yarn. 
 
 269. The first attempts at sizing were not suc- 
 cessful. The object of the process, of course, was 
 to turn out a greater quantity of work than could be 
 produced, at the same cost, with thedressingmachine. 
 But the great difficulty, in rendering it effective, 
 was to dry the yarn sufficiently quickly without 
 plaiting it, or injuring it in the process. 
 
150 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 270. Heat is the most efficient agent for this 
 purpose, provided it is properly applied. But so 
 long as it was used, as in the dressing machine, for 
 evaporating the moisture from the yarn by drying 
 the atmosphere around it, there could be no great 
 difference, as to the amount of the production, be- 
 tween the two agencies on similar kinds of yarn. 
 But when the yarn was brought to be dryed in con- 
 tact with steam-heated cylinders, the relationship 
 between them was very much altered, as there was 
 no longer any difficulty in drying the yarn much 
 faster than the brushes could lay the fibres; and for 
 coarse yarn, therefore, which requires sizing or 
 starching rather than brushing, the application of 
 steam-heated cylinders for this purpose is so great 
 an improvement, that it practically established the 
 existence of this process, as a distinct one from 
 dressing. But by whom this improvement was first 
 originated, I do not know. It seems to have been 
 suggested for that purpose to several individuals 
 throughout the country, from its being used in calico 
 printing to dry the cloth. The Manchester district, 
 however, is no doubt its birth place. 
 
 271. But among those who were instrumental 
 in bringing it into practical operation, none seems 
 to have had so great a share as Mr Holroyd of Colne 
 or Manchester. Sizing from him became a separate 
 business for preparing the warps both for hand and 
 power loom weaving. 
 
 272. In the process as carried on by Mr Holroyd 
 for the hand loom department, the saturating of the 
 warp with the size or starch, and the drying of it 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 151 
 
 with steam-heated cylinders, are done separately, and 
 in different rooms. 
 
 273. The sizing is effected in a chest a a, of about 
 fourteen feet longand twofeetdeep. Thechestis about 
 half filled with size, as seen by the dotted lines, Fig, 
 1 st, Plate XL The size or paste is kept in a boiling 
 state with steam, and the warps are carried through 
 it, over and under a succession of rollers b b 9 in the 
 box, as seen in the longitudinal section of the appar- 
 atus in the same plate. Two warps are led in at a 
 time, in lengths of two webs each. These are put on 
 a bench or table d, in front of the apparatus, and 
 carried up in the direction of the arrow over the 
 horizontal framing c c, out of the way, from which 
 they descend into the box at e, and are led through it, 
 and out of it at f, by the rotation of the two squeez- 
 ing rollers g, k, which are designed to express the 
 loose size from them before they are delivered in to 
 the receiving can i, placed in front of them for that 
 purpose. 
 
 274. The squeezing rollers are made, the lower 
 one of iron, and the upper one of hard wood. The 
 upper one is loaded at its journals with a weighted 
 lever k, to regulate the pressure between them, accord- 
 ing to the quantity of size which the yarn is sup- 
 posed to require. The paste is supplied to the box 
 from two tubs m, n, placed above it, and communicat- 
 ing with it by stop cocks p. These stoppers are 
 unturned to replenish the waste, as the warps seem 
 to require it from the appearance of paste upon them 
 as they come to the squeezing rollers. Both of these 
 portions of paste are kept boiling. A steam pipe q 
 for that purpose, is led over the upper tubs, into each 
 
152 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 of which a branch is sent, and down into the box, 
 where it terminates at the further end. The holes 
 by which the steam makes its escape from the pipe 
 in the box are placed so that it strike against the bot- 
 tom of it, to prevent it from blowing up the paste. 
 
 275. The warps are then removed in the can to 
 the drying room, to be run over and under a succes - 
 sion of 23 steam-heated tin cylinders, 36 inches in 
 diameter ; or, as represented in Fig. 2nd, as used by 
 others, 24, each 16 inches. The velocity of the rollers, 
 in this latter case, is about 40 revolutions per minute, 
 and the convolutions of the warp 19 times repeated. 
 
 276. But in preparing the warp for the power 
 loom, the yarn is run into the machine from reels, 
 and has to be received at the other end on a beam. 
 The two departments of the process, therefore, of 
 sizing and drying, are run together, or rather con- 
 tinuously, in the same machine ; at the one end the 
 yarn is sized, and at the other dryed on the cylinders, 
 and delivered on the beam. 
 
 27J. A few years ago a machine of this kind was 
 patented by Messrs. Kenworthy and Hornby, which 
 has come much into use, and is called the Tape sizing 
 machine. The peculiar object of this invention is 
 to deliver the threads run together in bands like a 
 tape or spread half gang ; and the benefit from this 
 arrangement, is, in so far as it may enable the one 
 thread to support the other behind the heddles in the 
 weaving, by the cohesion between the threads from 
 the size in connecting them by the surface filaments. 
 A representation of this machine is given in Plate 
 XII. which will be further noticed when we come to 
 the reconsideration of the process of dressing. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 153 
 
 278. Thus the power loom was furnished with 
 an agency for dressing equally efficient, in its own 
 department, for carrying on the manufacture in con- 
 junction with it, — so that its usefulness was estab- 
 lished by its co-operation. 
 
 279. The practical existence, therefore, of the 
 power loom, properly commences with the applica- 
 tion of the dressing machine ; and, as this agency was 
 now brought extensively into operation both in Eng- 
 land and Scotland, its capabilities and defects began 
 to develope themselves. 
 
 280. The construction of the power loom had 
 hitherto been based, as closely as possible, on the 
 arrangements of the hand loom. But it was soon 
 found that there was a great difference between the 
 action of the two agencies ; and changes were early ? 
 made in the power loom with the view of accom- 
 odating it accordingly. 
 
 281. The inverting of the position of the lathe, 
 as seen in Fig. 43rd, was one of the earliest of these 
 changes ; and as it improved the machine in com- 
 pactness of form without being attended with any 
 injury to the motion of the lathe, as impelled either 
 by the crank or the wiper for calico weaving, it 
 became almost universally adopted in the construction 
 of the power loom. 
 
 282. One improvement followed another, and led 
 to a thorough revision of the whole of the mechan- 
 ical means as applied to weaving : — 
 
 Firsts As to the throwing of the loom out of gear 
 by means of the shuttle protector. 
 
 Secondly > As to the motion of the lathe. 
 Thirdly, As to the means for shedding, 
 
154 
 
 PRACTICAL TKEATISE 
 
 Fourthly, As to the means for picking. 
 
 Fifthly, As to the make of the loom — as best fit- 
 ted to withstand the reaction of these motions. 
 
 Sixthly, As to the motion for winding the cloth 
 on the beam. 
 
 Seventhly, As to the devising of a means for stop- 
 ping the loom on the discontinuance or breakage of 
 the weft shot. 
 
 Eighthly, As to the invention of a means to 
 render the temples self-acting, so as to keep the cloth 
 at its proper width at the fell without hand inter- 
 ference, so as to save time and save the reed. 
 
 283. These are important objects, as compre- 
 hended in the foregoing heads, since the completeness 
 in the success of the power loom depends in a great 
 measure on the manner in which they are accom- 
 plished by machinery. But as the right origination 
 of the means, as well as the appreciation of the fit- 
 ness of their application, depends on a knowledge of 
 weaving, the principles of the art, which are detailed 
 in the previous part of the work, must be insepar- 
 ably associated with the consideration of the state of 
 machinery as effecting it. 
 
 284. In all kinds of weaving the lathe is a most 
 important implement ; and its steadiness of action 
 in working at any speed, is highly advantageous to 
 the work. All causes, therefore, injuriously affect- 
 ing its motion must be avoided ; and in weaving by 
 power its action must be as little as possible inter- 
 fered with by other movements, that it be not 
 thereby injured. 
 
 285. In the early state of the power loom, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 155 
 
 when the art of weaving itself was imperfectiy devel- 
 oped, the fitness of the motion as applicable to it, 
 was, as might be expected, imperfectly conceived ; 
 and as the art of constructing machines was equally 
 imperfect, the highly important practice of making 
 one motion as much as possible unaffected by another 
 was not sufficiently considered in the construction of 
 the loom, nor has it yet been sufficiently attended to. 
 It was soon evident, however, that the lathe suffered 
 a considerable shock from the interference of the 
 protector in throwing the loom out of gear by 
 the sliding pulley ; and this particular defect, 
 was so far early remedied by the introduction of 
 that elegant mode of stopping the loom by using two 
 pulleys — a fast and a loose one ; so that the lathe 
 had merely to overcome the reaction of a spring 
 sufficient to transfer the strap from the fast to 
 the loose pulley. 
 
 286. This method, seen in all the five views of the 
 loom, as presented in Plates V. VI. VII. and VIII, 
 in which the corresponding parts are referred to by 
 the same letters, is a great relief to the lathe, and to 
 the machine generally ; and has been almost univer- 
 sally adopted from its first introduction, in disen- 
 gaging the loom ; and, for a similar purpose, in 
 almost all other machinery, a' V are respectively 
 the fast and the loose pulleys, d the spring, and d! 
 the strap or belt lever. 
 
 287. The protector itself was likewise better 
 accomodated in its connection with the lathe. The 
 pendulous part of the arm overhanging the box was 
 removed, so as to make the two arms alike, as seen 
 
156 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 in Fig. 2d, Plate VIII. ; and instead of the box springs 
 for staying the rebound of the shuttle, a lever or 
 si oat was used, formed as seen in Fig. 3rd, with its 
 belly a projecting within the shuttle line ; so that on 
 the entrance of the shuttle into the box, as there was 
 a third arm fixed on the protector, nearly at right 
 angles to the other two, to act on the latch for dis- 
 engaging the spring, it was raised by this action, 
 and thus the rebound of the shuttle was prevented 
 by the weight alone on the third arm of the protec- 
 tor. By this means the pressure on the shuttle in 
 each box was equalized, and the shuttle thereby 
 rendered less liable to be tripped in its course, whilst 
 the apparatus itself was somewhat simplified by the 
 change. 
 
 288. The mechanism of the lathe, as affecting 
 the motion of the shuttle, is subject to the same rules 
 as explained in reference to the hand lathe, and 
 these are : — 
 
 I. The reed must be in a straight line with the 
 back boxing at the shuttle line : 
 II. The race must be level throughout : 
 
 III. The spindles must be straight : 
 
 IV. They must be in the direction of the shuttle 
 line, — 
 
 1st, Parallel with the race ; 
 
 2nd, Parallel with the back boxing : 
 
 V. The race groove must be in the direction of 
 the spindles : and 
 
 VI. The race should be beveled to the angle of 
 the shed. 
 
 289. But besides these rules, which must be 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 157 
 
 carefully exemplified in the construction of the lathe, 
 as necessary to keep the shuttle in its course, there 
 is the proportion of the parts, which must be pre- 
 served as adapted to the work ; and the proper 
 length of box, as best adapted for shuttling, is the 
 most important of these. 
 
 290. As easiness in picking cannot be effected 
 with a short box, it should be rather too long than 
 too short. The specific length of box, as proper for 
 shuttling, will, however, depend on the width of the 
 web and the size of the shuttle. For common yard 
 wide calicoes it should be about nineteen inches. 
 
 291. But it is not enough that the lathe is made 
 in this manner ; it must also be made so as to be 
 kept in this manner, to effect what is required of it 
 in working. The sole, therefore, if it is made of 
 wood, should be of such as is well seasoned, and not 
 liable to warp ; and, as a further security from casu- 
 alties of this sort, it should be cased in front, from 
 end to end, with an iron plate. 
 
 292. It would however be better for all purposes, 
 and attended with little additional expense in the 
 first cost, to make the sole wholly of iron, with 
 merely a groove or space in the upper side for a 
 wooden bedding on which the race should be laid, as 
 seen in the transverse section of the loom, Plate VII. 
 By this means the sole could be better formed for 
 the placing of the protector, so that it would require 
 110 additional room for itself between the shuttle line 
 and the heddles ; and the space, therefore, need not 
 be greater than the thickness of the sword may re- 
 quire it for the sake of strength. 
 
158 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 293. The length of the stroke of the lathe in 
 yard wide calico weaving should be about five inches, 
 or about three times the width of the shuttle ; but in 
 broad work an additional half inch may be advanta- 
 geously given it. 
 
 294. The proper position of the lathe, again, in 
 acting on the cloth, is, as in hand weaving, at right 
 angles to the fell. But as it is liable, in the inverted 
 position, to be disturbed in its motion, in describing 
 its arc on each side of the vertical line, by the vibra- 
 tion of the centre of gravity from side to side of 
 the centre of motion, it is placed, to prevent this, so 
 as to make the commencement of its stroke spring 
 from the vertical line at the fell. Hence the direc- 
 tion of the warp line, as suited to this position, 
 should be exactly horizontal ; and that of the rock- 
 ing-tree accordingly, perpendicular to the reed at 
 the fell. 
 
 295. The length of stroke of the lathe is in some 
 measure affected by the leverage of the swords, ac- 
 cording to the distance between the connecting rod 
 and the race. But as this distance when considerable, 
 has a tendency to weaken the action of the lathe on 
 the cloth, it should be made to affect the stroke as 
 little as possible. The connecting rods, accordingly, 
 should be attached to the lathe as near the warp line 
 as they can be made to act; and were the sole made of 
 iron, instead of wood, the lathe would not only stand 
 better to its work, but it would admit of a better 
 connection with the crank and therefore be more 
 effective with the same power. 
 
 296. The lathe can thus be made the most effee- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 159 
 
 tive with the least motion, as space is economised 
 to the utmost ; and what is next required is to 
 economise the time in the motion of the lathe so as 
 to gain the greatest speed in shuttling with the 
 least injury to the yarn or the machinery ; and here, 
 again, the motion of the lathe, as worked by a good 
 hand weaver, is the best example for imitation by 
 power. 
 
 297- Such a motion to a certain extent, is repre- 
 sented in Fig. 30th, which, as has already been 
 observed, is not the common motion of the crank, 
 where the pauses, theoretically speaking, are equal. 
 
 298. The objects in view by the motion of the 
 lathe are two-fold ; — First, to bear the shuttle across 
 the web at the proper place ; and secondly, to strike 
 home the shot. In accomplishing the first, time 
 must be given the shuttle to cross the web, and in 
 proportion to its width. But for the second, the 
 object in almost every case, is best effected by quick- 
 ness of motion. The pauses, therefore, to effect 
 these objects aright, should be unequal ; and hence 
 by shortening that of the crank at the fell, time will 
 be gained with advantage to the work ; and if the 
 time thus gained, or a portion of it, can be applied 
 so as to increase the pause at the the full stroke in a 
 certain proportion as required by the shuttle, the 
 motion, as to form, will be such as is desired for 
 the lathe. 
 
 299. Power loom mechanicians were long in 
 quest of a means by which this form of motion could 
 be effected. The celebrated James Watt furnished 
 a plan to Mr Peter Marslandof Heaton-Norris, which 
 
160 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 he patented in 1806, for running the motion of the 
 lathe towards the fell, when near the cloth, into a 
 quickly accelerated form. This was effected by what 
 is commonly called the double crank ; and although 
 the motion is good as to quality, very little saving is 
 gained from it as to time. It is not the form of 
 motion for speed in shuttling, and has not I believe 
 been much used. 
 
 300. Mr Horrocks patented another modification 
 of the crank in 1813, for effecting the required 
 motion of the lathe by a similar combination of 
 levers, which, by adjustment, increased or diminished 
 the duration of the long pause. But this contriv- 
 ance likewise failed in its object, — it was too com- 
 plicated for general use. 
 
 301. The next attempt to effect the motion re* 
 quired was by eccentric wheels. That of the wiper 
 shaft was formed with a depression on each side of 
 the circumference opposite each other ; and the 
 pinion of the crank was made somewhat heart shaped, 
 and set so that the apex worked into the depressed 
 part of the wheel ; and thus the eccentricity in the 
 motion of the lathe was obtained to any required 
 degree by the relative forms of the two wheels. 
 
 302. This method of effecting the motion was 
 brought out and patented by Mr A. Buchanan of 
 Catrine ; but it happened that a similar means for 
 the same purpose had been made in Glasgow many 
 years before Mr Buchanan's invention of it, and 
 applied to canvas weaving in the north of Scotland ; 
 so that the patent right was on that account invali- 
 dated. But as the motion of the lathe by this means 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 161 
 
 is somewhat harsh and constrained, from the irregular 
 reaction between the wheels in working, it never 
 came much into use ; — and, as it was by and bye dis- 
 covered, that eccentricity in the motion of the lathe, 
 could be obtained without either eccentricity of the 
 wheels, or combination of levers with the crank, 
 the three preceding kinds of movements may be said 
 to have become obsolete. 
 
 303. The new mode of obtaining eccentricity in 
 the motion without eccentricity in the wheels, or 
 complexity of the means, was a valuable discovery as 
 applied to the lathe in weaving ; but by whom it was 
 first pointed out, I do not know. It will be seen 
 from Fig. 43d to be effected by merely placing the 
 connecting rods, as attached to the lathe, in a sloping 
 direction to the crank shaft. The crank shaft is, 
 therefore, on a lower plane than the studs of the 
 lathe, on which the connecting rods at that end are 
 hinged, and the degree of obliquity thus given them 
 determines the amount of eccentricity as imparted to 
 the lathe, in connection with that which takes place 
 from the revolution of the shaft. The eccentricity 
 from the shaft in working, will be as the length of 
 the connecting rod to the diameter of the circle as 
 described by the crank. 
 
 304. This will appear plain from the inspection 
 of Fig. 30th, page 78 ; as it will thereby be seen that 
 the space from e to f, as indicating the duration of 
 the short pause, at the beginning of the stroke, is 
 only about half the length of the long pause, as 
 measured from b to c, the points by which it is 
 bounded towards the end of the stroke : and as the 
 time required by the crank, in describing; these 
 
 L 
 
162 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 respective spaces, is as their relative lengths, the 
 duration of the pauses is as the length of the spaces. 
 The length of the pause at the end of the stroke will 
 depend in some measure on the direction in which 
 the crank shaft is turned, and this, it will be observed 
 by a little reflection, is occasioned by the shortening 
 of the connecting rods from the increase of their 
 obliquity in following that part of the circle described 
 by the crank in taking the lathe from the fell ; and 
 as there must be a corresponding increment, at the 
 opposite side of the circle, the lathe is therefore nearly 
 stationary, whilst the crank is describing that part of 
 the circle from b to c, so that time in the required 
 proportion can thus be given the shuttle for travers- 
 ing the web. The degree of obliquity, thus obtained, 
 should, of course, be proportioned to the breadth of 
 the web. 
 
 305. As the space, as taken up by the motion of 
 the lathe, is invariable, and the fell, therefore, a fixed 
 line, the heddles, in weaving by power, can be 
 brought nearer the slabstock than in hand weaving; 
 and as the swords of the lathe are made of iron, 
 the space between the reed or shuttle line and the 
 heddles may be diminished on that account, and thus 
 a smaller shed is rendered sufficient for such work, 
 than would be the case, with a similar fabric, in 
 hand weaving. Advantage, however, is not suffi- 
 ciently taken of this circumstance, and the coarse 
 practice of over-shedding generally prevails, from 
 the attention not being sufficiently directed to the 
 mischievous nature of it, although perhaps it is met 
 with in a less degree than in weaving by hand. 
 
 306. But although the yarn were unaffected by 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 163 
 
 this severe practice of over-shedding, it is attended 
 with a great deal of tear and wear of the heddles, 
 and this is still further increased by the shortness of 
 the stretch, as the power loom is commonly made 
 too much with a view to economize room in the 
 factory ; so that there is an insufficiency of spring 
 given the yarn to meet the action of the heddles, and 
 they must, therefore, effect their purpose in shed- 
 ding through the resilience of the pace. 
 
 307. The proper length of stretch, as already 
 noticed, will depend on the grist of the yarn. 
 For calicoes the distance of the beam from the hed- 
 dles may be from about twenty inches to two feet ; 
 and, for coarser work, the stretch should be increased 
 in proportion to the size of the shed. It would, 
 therefore, be as well to make the loom frame as seen 
 in the side views of the loom, Plates VII and VIII, 
 with an accomodation for the beam at different 
 stretches as the work may require it. 
 
 308. In the motion of the heddles as worked by 
 eccentrics, there is frequently some unsteadiness 
 manifested in their action, partly from irregular 
 pressure by the angularity of the wipers, — promoted 
 in a small degree, no doubt, by the curving motion 
 described by the treadles themselves, and the motion 
 of the yarn through the heddle-eyes. 
 
 309. Mr Roberts of Manchester, with the view 
 of improving their action, adopts the method of 
 hanging the heddles between two rollers ; and sheds 
 them by working the lower roller with a rack and 
 pinion from the wiper shaft, This method was very 
 early used for this purpose by Mr Johnson, in his 
 
164 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 invention of the vertical loom ; but as the diameter 
 of the roller is limited by the space between the 
 middle of the two front and that of the two back 
 leaves, so that each half of the set of heddles be merely- 
 kept clear of each other in working, a rather incon- 
 venient amount of traversing motion is required to 
 turn the roller as much as is necessary for shedding, — 
 and in heavy work, this limitation in the size of the 
 roller is apt to be attended with some unsteadiness 
 of motion in shedding. 
 
 310. These inconveniencies, however, are obvi- 
 ated by that method as presented by the author in 
 Plates IX and X, which is unattended with any 
 disadvantage from the motion. By this method it 
 will be seen, Plate IX, that the heddles are hung from 
 jacks above in the usual manner (except that they 
 are mounted on studs,) only because this mounting 
 for the heddles is more especially applicable to fine 
 work; but below they are attached to two rollers or 
 axles b c, better seen in the end view, Plate X, one 
 for each shedding. These two rollers are set par- 
 allel to each other ; and have each two arms d e, 
 formed at the end into quarter circles, by which 
 they are attached to their respective pairs of leaves, 
 and an arm f, vertically set at right angles with the 
 other two, by which they are connected together, and 
 worked by a connecting rod g from an eccentric or 
 rather a tappet h, with a friction pulley acting on the 
 wiper shaft like a crank. The tappet is seen as act- 
 ing on the connecting rod in Fig. 2nd, Plate X; and 
 the traversing motion, it will be observed, as necessary 
 from it in shedding, is less than the depth of the shed 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 165 
 
 by the difference between the arc described by the 
 heddle arms and that by the vertical one. 
 
 311. The modes of picking, like the contrivances 
 for producing the other movements of the loom, 
 are various. At first the picking pin was hung 
 in the middle of the loom above the pull-to. But 
 this arrangement was soon thrown aside in con- 
 sequence of its inconveniencing the weaver in attend- 
 ing the work ; although it has since been revived, 
 and even patented, in 1833, by Mr Smallcross. 
 
 3l°2. Next it was placed, as already noticed, ver- 
 tically under the web, and formed like the capital 
 letter T inverted. As the stud, on which it was 
 made to vibrate, passed through it where the two 
 lines intersect each other, motion was communicated 
 to it, by its being alternately struck on the cross- 
 tails by the respective tappets, on the revolution of 
 the wiper shaft. 
 
 313. This is a harsh communication of motion, 
 and it, therefore, soon fell into disuse for that modi- 
 fication of the same means for effecting its purpose, 
 by the action of the wipers on two separate treadles. 
 The cross-tail is here formed, as seen in Fig 42d, 
 into rather more than half a circle, and attached 
 by a strap from the circumference to the treadles. 
 But as the action of picking is apt to communicate 
 some disturbance to the shuttle, even after it is boxed, 
 by the dangling of the treadles, so as to occasion 
 purling at the selvages, this defect is remedied by 
 the form of the sweeps, which are interposed on the 
 treadles to receive the action on the tappets. 
 314. The curve of the sweep G', it will be seen from 
 
166 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 Fig. 4th, Plate VIII* is intended to prolong the 
 action of the wipers on the treadles, so as to keep 
 them still, till the shuttle has been staid in the box ; 
 and, therefore, the curve should be a part of a circle 
 of which the wiper is the radius, or more correctly, 
 it should be somewhat elliptically formed, as the 
 treadle recedes from it in shedding. The face on 
 which the wiper acts, is more or less oblique, or inclined 
 to the action of the w T iper, that a sufficient impetus 
 may be imparted to it in throwing the shuttle. 
 
 315. But there is still some vibration from the 
 length of the fly-cords unaccounted for by this means, 
 besides a great deal of tear and wear which they 
 suffer from friction by rubbing along the sides of the 
 boxes, and likewise from their being tucked to the 
 lathe to prevent them from jerking against the work; 
 and three modes of picking have been brought 
 into use by which these objections are completely 
 obviated. 
 
 316. By one of the modes, the picking is at the 
 side from a pendulous picking pin above the driver ; — 
 by another, at the side, from a vertical picking pin 
 under the driver; — and by the third, at the side, from 
 a horizontal picking pin above the driver. All the 
 three modes, therefore, have two picking pins, one at 
 each side ; but they differ from each other as to the 
 direction in which they act in throwing the shuttle. 
 They are, therefore, differently placed for that pur- 
 pose. By the pendulous mode, in working with 
 the pendulous lathe, the picking pins are hung from 
 the framing near the rocking-tree, each above its 
 respective box, and attached to its respective driver 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 167 
 
 by a short cord of about eight inches long; and, as 
 the picking pins are made to hang obliquely towards 
 the ends of their respective boxes by being drawn in 
 that direction by a spiral spring connecting the two 
 together, that they may not interrupt the entrance of 
 the shuttle, the wipers are so placed above the web 
 as tostrikethem alternately out of their way, and thus 
 throw the shuttle across the web ; or by a variation 
 in the mode of driving it, a strap is made to com- 
 municate from it with a treadle below, on which the 
 wiper acts in the usual manner under the web. 
 
 317. This mode of communicating motion to the 
 picking pins, according to the first variation, is not 
 altogether free from harshness of action from the 
 obliquely transverse direction of the force of the 
 wipers to the picking pins ; but, as the picking pins 
 themselves oscillate in the direction of the shuttle, its 
 motion is not affected by it. 
 
 318. The arrangement, however, of the means, in 
 both of the variations of picking, is defective rather 
 than the motion. The distant connexion between the 
 wiper and the driving shaft is an inconvenience ; 
 and as both the weight and action of the picking ap- 
 paratus, in one of the variations, is placed above the 
 web, it is apt to be attended with some little disturb- 
 ance and encumbrance to the machine in working. 
 
 319. The vertical picking pin, under the box, is 
 merely the pendulous one reversed as to position. 
 It is placed on a stud near the rocking-tree, as seen 
 in the transverse section of the power loom for 
 working checks, Fig. 1st, Plate XIIL and conse- 
 quently its action, from the curve it describes in 
 
168 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 throwing the shuttle, is forward and a little down- 
 wards. The direction, however, is but little out of 
 the line of the driver and does not affect the shuttle; 
 and where several shuttles are used, the arrangement 
 is a convenient one, more especially where the work 
 is not very heavy. 
 
 320. But for very heavy work, the horizontal 
 mode of picking is preferable, from the impulse being 
 directly applied to the picking shaft; and indeed this 
 mode is unobjectionable either as to arrangement, or 
 motion ; and effects its object by a resolution of the 
 same means. Instead of the picking pins being 
 pendulous, they are here placed to vibrate horizon- 
 tally on a vertical shaft, immediately above their 
 respective boxes, and are attached to their respec- 
 tive drivers by a cord q, Plate VI, so long only as is 
 sufficient, as in the other two modes, to preserve the 
 flexibility and easiness of their action. 
 
 321. The picking pins, therefore, act in this posi- 
 tion similarly to the weaver's arms in hand shuttling; 
 only that the motion is communicated to the drivers, 
 and from behind the lathe for the convenience of 
 arrangement, that the wiper shaft may be properly 
 placed both for picking and shedding. The position 
 of the wiper, as seen in Fig. 1st, Plate VIII, lateral 
 section of the power loom, effects both of these 
 advantages, inasmuch as it is well placed to act with 
 facility both on the treadles G G, for shedding, and 
 the picking shafts n' n' . 
 
 322. The form of the picking shaft, as adapted 
 for this action, is seen detached in Fig. 4th in the 
 same plate. It consists of a round malleable iron rod 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 169 
 
 of about two feet six inches long with a short arm n 
 drawn out from it at right angles, to which the pick- 
 ing pin is bolted. This shaft is placed vertically in 
 the loom, and made so long that its lower end reaches 
 the transverse back framing A', near the ground, 
 where it rests in a socket which is bolted to the 
 framing there, and so near the wiper shaft that it 
 may be brought to act upon it, whilst the upper end 
 is supported in a bush. 
 
 323. Now the most effective action of the wiper 
 on the picking shaft, when placed in this manner, will 
 be at right angles to the picking pin. Accordingly 
 the sweep G', it will be seen from Fig. 4th, is fixed 
 upon it nearly in this position, and formed some- 
 thing like a bat's wing, that its curvature may b 
 adapted to the action imparted to it by the circular 
 motion of the wiper. The picking shafts are of 
 course made right and left handed, to fit them for 
 their respective sides ; and kept at the proper work- 
 ing angle to receive the action of their respective 
 wipers, by a spiral spring extended between them, 
 and attached to each by its respective ends. As 
 the wiper shaft, therefore, revolves with the wipers 
 in their relative places, the sweeps are alternately 
 struck by them out of their circle, and the picking 
 pin by this action describes an arc, of nearly the 
 length of the box, in throwing the shuttle, of which 
 the picking pin is the radius, and as it is advantageous 
 to have the motion of picking in the direction of the 
 shuttle, the pin, therefore, to prevent the curvature 
 of its motion from injuriously affecting the action 
 of the driver, should not be short. About two feet 
 
170 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 is a good length for common purposes. But this, of 
 course, should vary a little with the box itself, accor- 
 ding to the width of the work. 
 
 324. The motion of picking, from the suddenness 
 of the tug, is a severe kind of action on a machine, 
 and so are the other motions included in shuttling : 
 and as the efficiency and durability of the machine 
 depend on its stability in action, the loom should be 
 sufficiently made to resist reaction. 
 
 325. Now as the reaction of the work is a cer- 
 tain amount of weight which must be overcome by 
 the power applied to the machine, and as the ma- 
 chine is the instrument by which it is transmitted, it 
 should be strong enough to stand between the two 
 forces, the action and the reaction, undisturbed by 
 either, so as to go through its work without any 
 appearance of effort. Should weakness be any 
 where present in it, it will manifest itself in work- 
 ing, either to the eye or the hand, by tremor — a state 
 of reaction highly injurious to the journals, bushes, 
 and joints. 
 
 326. This reaction may be general, arising from 
 the weakness of both the moving parts and the 
 frame ; or it may be partial, from the defectiveness 
 of either — and hence the stability in action of the 
 machine depends on the proportion between its 
 relative parts, and the power, and the reaction of the 
 work. A practical knowledge of the work, as to its 
 weight, and the effects of overaction on it, is thus 
 necessary to enable the engineer to adapt the machine 
 to the special fabric under consideration. This know- 
 ledge is comprehended in the art of weaving ; and the 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 171 
 
 principles of mechanics must guide him in the con- 
 struction of the machine, so as to maintain a due 
 proportion of the parts throughout — a combination of 
 skill of great value in the application of this machinery. 
 
 327. As the frame sustains the several parts in 
 their relative places, and the sum of their reaction, 
 it must be made strong enough on the whole; and to 
 avoid unnecessary weight, the strength must be 
 adapted to the strain. Sufficient material must 
 therefore be put, both where and as the strain requires 
 it, that the greatest strength may be obtained with- 
 out waste. Wood in this respect is ill adapted for 
 machine framing, but the engineer has all that he 
 stands in need of for perfecting the proportion of his 
 work, from iron mouldings. By this means he is 
 enabled to combine both weight and strength in the 
 construction of the machine, in a manner the most 
 effectual for overcoming reaction. 
 
 328. Hence he must make his arrangements, so 
 as to throw the action, and as much of the reaction 
 as possible, on the central line ? of gravity in the 
 machine ; and both as near the base line as circum- 
 stances will permit. 
 
 329. The wiper shaft is, therefore, very properly 
 placed, so as to impart its action in picking below 
 the centre of motion in the machine towards the 
 base line. 
 
 330. The form of the frame, as best fitted to re- 
 sist reaction in working, and the disposition of the 
 moving parts, as best adapted for obviating strain, 
 are very important considerations in machine mak- 
 ing. But nothing must be sacrificed for the sake of 
 
172 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 form, which is advantageous to the machine as re- 
 quired for the work. 
 
 331. By the inverted position of the lathe, the 
 frame is improved in compactness of form, so that 
 the height of the loom, in so far as it is affected by 
 the reaction of the work, is limited by the warp line, 
 which should not be higher than is sufficient to sup- 
 port the web at an elevation the most convenient for 
 the weaver in attending to the work. This will be 
 about three feet, measuring from the slabstock to 
 the floor. 
 
 332. As the wiper shaft performs the actions of 
 picking and shedding, it sustains the greatest share 
 of the strain from the motions of weaving, and it 
 should, therefore, be well supported by the frame. 
 
 333. The form of frame as best fitted to resist 
 reaction from motion, is such as has its greatest 
 strength in the direction of the strain. 
 
 334. Now the direction of the strain on the 
 wiper shaft in shedding is upwards, and that from 
 picking is forwards, and, therefore, that form of frame 
 which is best calculated to sustain perpendicular, as 
 well as diagonal pressure, is best adapted for the 
 support of the wiper shaft. 
 
 335. Mr Roberts of Manchester uses a diagonal 
 form for this part of the framing, and that which 
 I have presented in the several views of the loom in 
 Plates V, VI, VII, & VIII, is the arch, drawn chiefly 
 from the loom as made by Mr Grandison, Glasgow. 
 
 336. The strain on the crank shaft from the 
 action of the lathe on the fell is backwards and a 
 little downwards, nearly in the opposite direction to 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER, 
 
 173 
 
 that of picking; but this part of the framing which 
 supports the crank, from the arch upwards, is so 
 much intersected, that reaction from the work can 
 affect it only from general weakness arising from a 
 deficiency of material. 
 
 337. Every machine should have so much strength 
 and weight in its framing as to be wholly unaffected 
 by its own motion — rockfast within itself ; and few 
 machines, from the nature of the motions in weaving, 
 require so much of both of these qualities to with- 
 stand reaction in working as the loom. 
 
 338. But besides the strain from the separate 
 action of the moving parts, there is that resulting 
 from their conjoint action, which should be disposed 
 of in a manner that the loom is best enabled to re- 
 sist. This will be effected by throwing this sort of 
 strain as much as possible on the central line of 
 gravity in the machine ; and as the greatest portion 
 of it results from the conjoint action of the crank 
 and w 7 iper shafts, it will fall, so far as they affect it, 
 on a point in the framing, somewhere relatively dis- 
 tant from each, in proportion to the amount of in- 
 dividual reaction comparatively sustained by them. 
 
 339. Machine makers, from their unacquaintance 
 with weaving, have not sufficiently attended to the 
 kind of motions of which it consists, nor to their 
 quality ; and have thus been led to estimate the 
 strength, both for the frame and the moving parts, 
 by the power as necessary to work the machine, 
 rather than by the reaction arising from the pecu- 
 liarity of the motions ; and the cloth manufacturer, 
 again, is apt to judge of the strength as necessary 
 
174 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 for it, by what knowledge he may have of weaving 
 by hand; and thus the power loom is almost univer- 
 sally too light made for its work. 
 
 340. As the conjoint action of the motions in 
 weaving by power is subject to the same rules as in 
 weaving by hand, and is performed in the same 
 order of succession, — viz. first, the lathe strikes the 
 fell, — secondly, the shed instantly begins to open as 
 by its action, — and lastly, picking follows on the 
 rising of the lathe from the cloth, the reaction from 
 these motions, therefore, takes place at three points 
 in the circle ; and as little power is necessary to 
 keep the machine a-going till their recurrence 
 again, the suddenness of their return, from its being 
 attended with a great discharge of force, requires 
 much weight and strength, aided by all the advan- 
 tages of art, in the construction of the loom, to pre- 
 vent it from suffering from tremulous reaction in 
 working. 
 
 341. To effect this object fully, the weight of the 
 loom frame, as properly made for common calico 
 weaving, independent of that of the moving parts, 
 should not be much under half a ton. Whatever 
 error is committed, it should be on the safe side of 
 weight. 
 
 342. But the loom may be well made as to the 
 frame, and yet unfit for its work from a want of 
 strength, and weight, or proportion, in the moving 
 parts ; and from an unsuitable disposition of them 
 for action. 
 
 343. The weight proper for the shafting of the 
 loom will depend much on its width. But for com- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 175 
 
 mon yard wide calicoes, the iron for it should be 
 about If inch in diameter, and properly speak- 
 ing, to be made in proportion, increased towards the 
 middle to meet the increased strain which it there 
 sustains from turning. This especially should be the 
 form of the crank shaft. But for the wiper shaft it 
 would be inconvenient to be so formed, as it would 
 interfere with the fixing of the wipers. This shaft 
 however should be thicker than the crank, perhaps 
 about one-eighth of an inch. 
 
 344. The action of the wiper shaft in picking is 
 at each end, as near the bushes as it can be conveni- 
 ently taken from it. But that of shedding is from 
 the middle of the shaft, where it is very properly 
 supported in a bush h\ as seen in Plate VI. from a 
 transverse piece of framing put up for that purpose. 
 
 345. The crank is exclusively employed to work 
 the lathe, and is likewise formed on the shaft as 
 near each of its bushes as it can be made to work. 
 
 346. The wheels both of the crank and the 
 wiper, from the reaction which they have to en- 
 counter, should be strong and heavy, and formed 
 with their arms set in the direction of the strain ; 
 and their momentum will be still further increased, 
 and their steadiness in action improved, by making 
 them of a good size, — nine or ten inches, and eigh- 
 teen or twenty respectively. For the same reason the 
 driving pulleys should be neither small nor light — 
 smaller than seventeen or eighteen inches should not 
 be recommended. By using the wheels made in 
 this manner they act on their respective shafts with 
 something of the effect of a fly-wheel, which tends 
 
176 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 greatly to carry them undisturbed over the reacting 
 points in their revolutions. 
 
 347. The movement of the cloth beam is unat- 
 tended with any injurious reaction to the machine, 
 as its motion is rotatory. The grand desideratum 
 in this movement is that the cloth be withdrawn 
 from the lathe at the fell regularly as it is wrought, 
 without being affected by the varying diameter of 
 the beam by the cloth. But neither of the two 
 movements for this purpose, which have already been 
 described, fully accomplish this object. That noticed 
 in connection with the old wiper loom is objection- 
 able, chiefly, on account of the number of joints in 
 the contrivance, and the consequent looseness be- 
 tween the parts in communicating the motion : 
 whilst that described with the crank loom is defective, 
 more especially on account of its being influenced by 
 the varying diameter of the beam by the cloth. 
 
 348. The lathe, within certain limits, regulates 
 the motion of both these movements — on that with 
 the screw, by interrupting its action so as thereby to 
 diminish the excess of its motion arising from any 
 cause, — and on that with the hanging catches and 
 weight, by acting with its stroke on the fell as a 
 counteraction to the pace, so as to assist in giving 
 motion to the beam, according to the impulse as 
 communicated to the cloth. 
 
 349. In working, therefore, with this latter 
 method especially, the cloth is prevented from get- 
 ting thinner towards the end of the piece, by in- 
 creasing the pace as the diameter of the beam 
 increases. This is done by the worker. But as the 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 177 
 
 diameter of the yarn beam itself decreases with the 
 increasing diameter of the cloth beam, although in 
 a less relative degree, this circumstance tends to in- 
 crease the tension, as the motion requires it, without 
 any change of the pace, and, therefore, renders less 
 change necessary in working with it than otherwise 
 would be the case. It is, however, desirable that the 
 machine should effect its work independent of hand 
 intervention, and, accordingly, a motion was early 
 brought out for the purpose of preventing the texture 
 of the cloth from being affected by the varying diam- 
 eter of the cloth beam. 
 
 350. This was accomplished by making the cloth 
 beam a friction roller, which retains its hold on the 
 cloth by the roughness of its surface, and delivers it 
 to another beam, placed below it, (or it may be, as it 
 sometimes is, above it, although that is a more incon- 
 venient arrangement for the worker) but parallel with 
 it and in contact, on which it is wound by the rota- 
 tion of the two rollers together. The surface of the 
 delivering roller is made sufficiently rough for the 
 purpose by coating it with emery, which adheres to 
 it by being laid on a ground of glue or size, whilst 
 it is as yet in a soft state. The contact of the two 
 beams is maintained by placing the under one on two 
 balance levers, and loading their opposite ends so as 
 to keep the receiving beam against the delivering 
 one, as seen in Fig. 3rd, Plate XIII ; or it may be 
 effected, as in other cases, by two springs used instead 
 of the two levers, on which the beam is supported, 
 as required, to rotate on its gudgeons, as seen in Fig. 
 4th. B, C, D and E are respectively the deliver- 
 
 M 
 
178 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ing beam, as seen from the end, the receiving beam, 
 the lever, and the weight ; the corresponding parts 
 in the two figures are marked by the same letters. 
 The beam by this means merely delivers, and its de- 
 livery will be uniform with the motion as imparted 
 to it — as its acting diameter throughout is the same. 
 
 351. The motion, as imparted, may either be 
 intermittent, from the hanging catch and weight, or 
 it may be continuous or intermittent, from the action 
 of the crank or wiper shaft. In working with an 
 intermittent motion from the hanging catch and 
 weight, the movement, as actuated by the lathe, is 
 still influenced by the stroke of the lathe on the 
 fell, — but with a continuous or intermittent motion 
 from the crank or wiper shaft, it is independent of 
 the lathe. In the former case, therefore, its motion 
 must be qualified by the pace to prevent the cloth 
 from getting rather thicker as the yarn beam decreases 
 in diameter by the delivery of the warp, — but in the 
 latter case, as represented in Fig. 1st, Plate XIII, 
 where the motion is intermittent from the action of 
 the wiper shaft, the thickness of the cloth is altogether 
 dependent on the motion as communicated to the 
 beam ; and will, therefore, continue to deliver by the 
 working of the loom, whether the weft shot is thrown 
 in or not. 
 
 352. This is a disadvantage in practice, which 
 is attended with more inconvenience than is sought 
 to be remedied by the improvement itself — and it 
 has not, therefore, been a favourite with the trade. 
 Something was still wanting to complete its useful- 
 ness, and this desideratum has of late been supplied 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 179 
 
 by the invention of what is called the weft shot pro- 
 tector. By this means, the breakage or discontin- 
 uance of the weft shot is made to stop the machine, 
 and thus the inconvenience of turning back the 
 movement, when the breakage of the shot is not 
 immediately perceived, is prevented. 
 
 353. This action is effected by the weight or 
 reaction of the weft shot itself. For this purpose, 
 therefore, a very slight lever, highly susceptible of 
 motion, and so balanced on its pivots that the weight 
 or resistance of the weft shot is sufficient to lift it, 
 is placed horizontally, in the direction of the yarn, on 
 a fulcrum in front of the reed, with the end next the 
 reed bent, so as to hang in a transverse slit in the 
 race between the selvage and the sword, as seen in 
 Fig. 2d, Plate XIV, in such a manner that the weft 
 shot, in following the shuttle into the box, is almost 
 certain to press against it by the motion of the lathe, 
 and thus lift the opposite end out of a notch, or pro- 
 jection, against which it must otherwise strike, and 
 thereby throw the loom out of gear. 
 
 354*. Fig. 2nd is a side view of the manner in 
 which this apparatus effects its action, and from 
 which it will be seen that the motion for disengag- 
 ing the loom by it, is taken from a tappet fixed on 
 the wiper shaft, which acts, for that purpose, on a 
 two-armed lever, a is the wiper, b the tappet, o 
 and d respectively the lower and upper lever arms, 
 and e is their centre. 
 
 355. Now it is the upper arm d that acts directly 
 on the weft shot protector lever, or fork, as it is 
 called, which is likewise formed with two arms. The 
 
180 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 forked arm or end is marked f and the opposite one 
 f\ and for the purpose of fitting them for acting to- 
 gether, both the end of the fork f and that of the 
 upper arm d y where they come into contact, are each 
 furnished with a corresponding ratchet tooth projec- 
 tion by which they are locked, or fitted for acting 
 against each other without slipping. When, there- 
 fore, the tooth of the upper arm d is brought into 
 contact with that of the fork yby the motion of the 
 wiper, the fork moves with it, in consequence of its 
 being placed on a lever, as its fulcrum, which admits 
 of this motion. 
 
 356. This lever which supports the fork is marked 
 g in the three views as given of the weft shot protec- 
 tor, but as it is placed for the required action, at 
 right angles to the upper arm, and likewise to the 
 fork, it is better seen in the plan Fig. 3rd, where it 
 will be observed to lie close along-side of the spring 
 h above the breast beam or slabstock J, so that as 
 soon as the upper wiper arm moves it, the spring 
 is slipped off its notch in the rest, and the loom is 
 immediately stopped in the usual manner. 
 
 357. Now as the weft shot prevents this action 
 from taking place, by lifting the toothed end of the 
 fork clear of the tooth of the wiper arm, by the 
 reaction of its weight against it from the motion of 
 the lathe, — the whole efficiency of this means depends 
 on the certainty with which the weft shot is made 
 to act upon the fork; and, accordingly, it is formed 
 with the view of obtaining such a resistance from 
 the shot, as will insure the desired result. This 
 is effected by making that end of the fork f 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 181 
 
 which comes in contact with the weft, with prongs like 
 an eating fork, and setting it so that they may go 
 through the reed, at least partially, at the upper bend 
 o, with the weft between them, or rather so as to be 
 resisted by the weft shot in doing so; and thus the 
 pressure is increased in proportion to the number 
 of prongs used, and the relative spaces between the 
 dents of the reed through which they pass. Three 
 are commonly used — and that part of the reed 
 through which they go is made with splits sufficiently 
 strong to be uninjured by their action in working. 
 
 358. The space between the dents may vary 
 according to the work, from one-eight of an inch to 
 three-sixteenths or more: and the fork should be set 
 as near the selvage as the temples will permit it, 
 that it may not keep the weft shot too far off, and 
 thus have a tendency to produce purling. 
 
 359. In working with the friction rollers, where 
 the number of shots entirely depends on the velocity 
 as imparted to the delivering beam, greater care is 
 necessary with it, to prevent unevenness of the cloth 
 at the joining of a broken shot, as the cloth, in this 
 case, if it should be overdrawn, must be more accur- 
 ately let back to the line of the lathe at the fell, than 
 is necessary with the ratchet wheel and weight 
 movement worked bythe lathe ; — and, therefore, the 
 weft shot protector is more especially necessary to 
 it. The utmost overdrawing that can take place in 
 working with this useful little invention is one shot ; 
 and even this amount of aberration maybe prevented, 
 if it be thought necessary to construct the contriv- 
 ance for acting at each side of the web. This 
 
182 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 invention was made the subject of a patent by 
 Messrs. Bullough and Hamsbottom in 1836. 
 
 360. But it will be observed, that the friction 
 roller movement, as worked from the wiper shaft, 
 although it produces a uniform texture of cloth, 
 does not obviate the necessity of shifting the pace to 
 equalize the tension on the web as the yarn beam 
 decreases in diameter by the delivery of the warp, 
 and, therefore, this adjustment is still to be done by 
 hand. It might very easily be done by machinery 
 if it were thought desirable, by merely effecting the 
 change in the pace by the decreasing diameter of 
 the beam itself. A bell crank or rectangular lever 
 would do it, by placing it in the direction of the 
 beam above the pace lever, and connecting the pace 
 weight to the vertical arm, whilst the horizontal arm 
 was kept by a spring or weight against the under 
 side of the beam, so as to regulate the removal of 
 the pace weight towards the pace cord in the pro- 
 portion that was found sufficient to equalize the 
 tension of the warp for practice in working : or it 
 might be effected by a rack acting on a pinion in 
 such a manner as to shift the pace weight as the 
 decrease of the beam's diameter gives it the motion 
 to do so. In this case the end of the rack which 
 comes in contact with the beam, should be shielded so 
 as to prevent it from injuring the yarn by the pres- 
 sure against it. But as the shifting of the pace is 
 attended with so very little trouble, especially in com- 
 mon fabrics where it is not unhandy from its weight, 
 and is hardly even an inconvenience, the effecting of 
 it in this manner seems not to be thought of. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 183 
 
 36 1 . Schemes, however, have been numerous for 
 regulating the delivery of the warp to the uptaking 
 motion of the cloth beam ; and Mr Amos Stone of 
 Rhode Island, America, seems to have been the 
 leader in inventing contrivances for this purpose. 
 
 362. The principle of the movement as brought 
 out by Mr Stone, is that of making the cloth beam 
 deliver the warp by the rebound of the reed on the 
 fell. The reed is, therefore, set, to render its motion 
 effective for the purpose, in a flyer, which vibrates 
 on pivots by the stroke of the lathe on the fell. Fig. 
 1st, Plate XIV. is a back view of the flyer in con- 
 nection with the lathe, a, b, cc 9 d d, represent the 
 reed, the flyer, the swords of the lathe and pivots of 
 the flyer respectively ; e is the sole of the lathe and 
 the two springs which keep the flyer to its work 
 are marked ff. The swords or arms of the flyer, 
 it will be observed, are long — extending from the 
 reed to the rocking- tree, and supported midway on 
 their pivots from brackets h h, attached to the swords 
 of the lathe. The lower arm, therefore, of the flyer, 
 from this arrangement, vibrates in an opposite direc- 
 tion from the reed ; and it is from this lower arm 
 i, that the motion is taken to unwind or deliver the 
 warp from the beam. There is no pace in this 
 movement. The warp is kept at the required 
 degree of tension and the yarn beam is turned or 
 unturned by a screw or worm. The beam is, there- 
 fore, furnished with a spur wheel fixed on the gud- 
 geon, in which the worm works at right angles to it. 
 The worm shaft is, therefore, vertically placed, and 
 supported, at each end in bushes from brackets 
 
184 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 fixed to the side framing of the loom, as seen in the 
 end view of Mr Stone's loom, Fig. 2nd in the same 
 Plate ; j, f 9 k k, and are respectively the worm, 
 worm-shaft, the two brackets bushed for supporting 
 it, and the yarn beam spur-wheel. 
 
 363. The motion for turning the worm shaft is 
 communicated to it by a sliding connecting rod m, — 
 the one end of which is slit and attached by the slit 
 to a stud in the lower arm of the flyer, whilst the 
 other end is furnished with a catch, or according to 
 another modification, Fig. 3rd, catch-shaped, and free 
 to act by sliding on a ratchet wheel n, fixed for 
 the purpose on the worm axle. This sliding con- 
 necting rod catch is placed horizontally under the 
 web a little above the plane of the rocking-tree, and 
 is, therefore, subject to the action of two motions — 
 that of the lathe, and that of the flyer, The motion 
 of the lathe is used directly to push back the con- 
 necting rod with its catch, so as thereby to turn the 
 wheel ; and that of the flyer is simply to bring it 
 forward, so as to put the catch in a proper condition 
 to act on the wheel again at the next stroke of 
 the lathe. 
 
 364. The connecting rod is fitted for this double 
 action by being made to slide in a slit in the sword 
 at the one end, and at the other, in a slit in a bracket 
 connected with the framing near the ratchet wheel ; 
 and kept down in contact with the teeth by a spiral 
 spring o. 
 
 365. The motion, as communicated by the slid- 
 ing catch to the worm shaft, is retained by another 
 lever catch p, acting on another ratchet wheel q, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 185 
 
 which is fixed upon the shaft, hut at the upper end 
 of it, for that purpose. Both wheels have, there- 
 fore, the same diameter and pitch of tooth to work 
 in conjunction with each other. 
 
 366. Now Mr Stone regulates the uptaking mo- 
 tion of the cloth beam by the action of the upper 
 lever catch, so that, when there is no weft thrown 
 in sufficient to produce the necessary reaction on the 
 reed to effect the motion on the yarn beam, there 
 will be no motion of the cloth beam. The opposite 
 end p l of the lever, from that which has the catch upon 
 it, is, therefore, made to act on the end of the hang- 
 ing catch arm r, with which the beam is furnished for 
 its own movement, so as to raise it, and thus move 
 forward the hanging catch click s 9 on its own ratchet 
 wheel t, and thereby put it in a condition to act in 
 turning the cloth beam in the usual manner, as pre- 
 viously noticed in describing the ratchet wheel move- 
 ment by the backward stroke of the lathe in receding* 
 from the fell. 
 
 367. The cloth beam, according to this move- 
 ment, cannot, therefore, be affected by the delivery 
 of every shot, — as some space must intervene before 
 a tooth be acted on by the pressure of the cloth upon 
 the reed at the fell. This space, of course, will be 
 equal to the length of the ratchet tooth divided by 
 the number of catches that are set at equal distances 
 to act upon it; and, therefore, this peculiarity of action 
 is more or less inseparable from all ratchet wheel 
 movements. It is not, however, an objection of any 
 practical importance, as the spaces may be so small as 
 to produce no inequality in the cloth in the working. 
 
186 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 368. An attempt has, however, been made to re- 
 move it, or rather perhaps to improve it, but this 
 improvement is deserving of attention rather from 
 the simplicity of the contrivance than from any other 
 superiority attendant on its mode of action. This 
 improvement consists in directly acting on the hang- 
 ing catch of the cloth beam with the flyer-lever, 
 instead of acting on it indirectly as in Mr Stone's 
 loom, through the medium of the upper catch lever 
 of the worm shaft. The flyer-lever is, therefore, 
 placed as seen in Fig. 4th, to act on the hanging 
 catch in the front of the sole of the lathe, with the 
 one end resting on the sole of the flyer against which 
 it is kept there by a spring, and, therefore, influ- 
 enced by the rebound of the reed, whilst the other 
 arm, extending downwards, is by that very action 
 brought directly on the hanging catch to depress it, 
 so as thereby to withdraw the catches on the ratchet 
 wheel, and thus put them in a state to move the 
 beam by the action of the lathe. 
 
 369. The lower arm, therefore, of the flyer lever 
 is bent to act in this manner, as seen in the end view 
 of the apparatus, Fig. 4th. a is the flyer lever placed 
 to vibrate on its centre vertically in front of the 
 sword of the lathe, and in contact with the hanging 
 catch arm b, of the ratchet wheel c. The hanging 
 catch arm at the one end is furnished, in the usual 
 manner, with clicks e e, to act in turning the beam 
 by the ratchet wheel, and at the other, with a small 
 weight to keep them engaged with the teeth. The 
 apparatus is not represented in connection with the 
 letting-off motion of the yarn beam, nor is it neces- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 187 
 
 sary, as that movement may be as well effected, if 
 it be desirable to effect it at all, by the cloth beam 
 itself. 
 
 370. But what advantage, it may very properly 
 be asked, has the action of the letting-off motion over 
 that of the pace in the weaving? and this question 
 can be best answered by considering the effect of the 
 pace on the yarn in weaving compared with that by 
 the worm and ratchet wheel movement. 
 
 371. By both modes of pacing, the yarn is to be 
 kept sufficiently tight to retain the shot by the stroke 
 of the lathe on the fell, and this is effected with the 
 pace by a continuous tension, interrupted only by the 
 stroke of the lathe on the fell ; but with the ratchet 
 wheel and worm movement — by intermittent ten- 
 sion from fitful action. The yarn by this latter 
 method is, therefore, alternately tight and slack, and 
 this result, from what we have seen, is inseparable 
 from ratchet wheel movements. The cloth may be 
 sufficiently tight when the lathe strikes the fell, and 
 the slackening of the web, by being effected imme- 
 diately after the stroke, will so far act beneficially 
 as a relief to the heddles and the yarn in the 
 shedding. But when it is recollected that the deli- 
 very can only be in proportion to the uptaking of 
 the warp by the weft shot, and that the delivery is 
 commonly intermittent for several shots together, a 
 strain in shedding must take place somewhere on 
 the warp (unless the web is altogether too slack 
 worked to make a good piece,) and that strain it has 
 no means of meeting but by its own elasticity. But 
 in weaving with the pace it has the resilience of the 
 
188 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 beam, in addition to its own elasticity, as a complete 
 security against strain from over tension in shed- 
 ding — and if advantage is taken of the relaxation 
 of the yarn by the stroke of the lathe on the fell, 
 the heddles and the yarn will have all the advantage 
 that the letting-ofF motion can offer, without the 
 heavy drawback unavoidable from the rigidity of its 
 action. Strong yarn may stand much strain with- 
 out injury, but the principle, as applied, is inad- 
 missable for common and light work. 
 
 372. This objection arising from its rigidity has 
 been met by putting the warp over a whiproll which 
 is made to spring by the reaction of the yarn in 
 shedding. But this method of obviating the objec- 
 tion, not only tends to disturb the proper position 
 of the yarn in the loom, but is adding complexity 
 to a means to attain an end, which is already 
 sufficiently done by the pace beam without it. 
 The only kind of work in which the letting-off 
 motion may have some advantage, is where the 
 weight of the pace, as necessary to keep the web 
 sufficiently tight in weaving, is so great as to be in- 
 convenient, on that account, in the handling. 
 
 373. The only regularly recurring action as neces- 
 sary to the cloth in weaving, which we have not yet 
 noticed, to complete the motions as effected by the 
 loom, is temple shifting. 
 
 374. We have seen that the temples are neces- 
 sary as stretchers to protect the reed at the selvages, 
 so as to prevent it from being too soon worn out, or 
 cut there, by the shrinking of the cloth in working ; 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 189 
 
 and, as the loom is not stopped whilst they are being 
 shifted, two pairs are used in weaving by power; — the 
 one to keep the web on the stretch whilst the other 
 is fetched forward on the cloth, as it is wrought in 
 front of it, towards the fell. 
 
 375. This operation requires very little time of 
 the weaver — about five seconds to each shifting. 
 But as it should be regularly done, and as soon as 
 a sufficiency of cloth is wrought in front of the tem- 
 ples to admit of the next shift, it occurs frequently, 
 and is liable when neglected to injure the reed. It 
 is, therefore, desirable, as a saving to the reed, that 
 this operation should be thrown on the machine, 
 and several attempts have accordingly been made to 
 invent contrivances for doing so. 
 
 376. Three are in use — one is called the nipper 
 temple— another the rotatory temple — and the third 
 the roller temple. Each of these inventions has some 
 peculiarity in its working dependent on its mode of 
 action. 
 
 377* By the nipper temples the cloth is kept 
 extended by being seized in the jaws of a nipper 
 sort of apparatus placed to act on the selvages op- 
 posite each other, near the fell ; and the jaws are 
 opened for being shifted, so as to permit the motion 
 of the cloth to the beam, by the lathe in striking 
 the fell. 
 
 378. Fig. 1st, Plate XV. represents a side view 
 of one of these nippers consisting of the two jaws, 
 marked respectively, a and b } between which the sel- 
 vage is held. The under jaw for this purpose is made 
 to spring against the upper one, so as thus to hold the 
 
190 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 cloth by the pressure between the two surfaces ; and 
 the better to effect it, they are toothed where they 
 come into contact, like a rasp or file. Fig. 2nd, 
 represents the same view of the temple but with the 
 jaws in an open state. 
 
 379. This nipper is made right and left handed 
 for its respective sides ; and fixed on the slabstock or 
 breast-beam c, as seen in Fig. 3rd. This represen- 
 tation is, therefore, a plan of this sort of temple, as 
 fitted for acting on the cloth. Now as the cloth 
 must be permitted to move towards the cloth beam 
 through the jaws, they are opened, for this purpose, 
 by the lathe in its striking the fell. This is done 
 through a lever d 9 seen in the plan, and placed to 
 vibrate horizontally on its centre on the same plate 
 with the nipper, but behind it nearer the slabstock. 
 The one end of this lever is armed with a wedge- 
 shaped blade, which the lathe, in striking the fell, 
 forces in between the jaws by coming into contact 
 with the other end. 
 
 380. The cloth is thus released when the reed is 
 at the fell, and allowed to move onwards towards 
 the beam. But by this very means the reed is left 
 unprotected, and at the time too when it stands 
 most in need of assistance from the temples ; as 
 there is a tendency in the cloth to shrink at the fell 
 immediately on its being left to itself. This however 
 is not allowed to have its full effect, as the temples 
 close again upon it almost as soon as the lathe rises 
 from the fell, or, at least, when it is clear of the lever. 
 So far however as this circumstance affects the cloth, 
 it is an objection to the action of the nipper temples. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 191 
 
 38 1 . The rotatory temple, however, is so far free 
 from this objection, inasmuch as it does not release 
 the cloth from it in working. But it is liable to an- 
 other of a more serious kind, and one which does 
 not affect the nipper sort — namely that it is apt to 
 injure or tear the cloth and loose hold of it by its 
 mode of acting on it. 
 
 382. This will be evident if we consider the 
 manner in which it effects its action on the selvage 
 from the form of the temple. The rotatory temple 
 is a small wheel of about two inches in diameter, 
 furnished on the one side of the rim with sharp 
 pointed spur-teeth. The teeth are set obliquely 
 to the plane of the wheel's axis, so as to enter 
 the selvage as the cloth passes over it — one half 
 of the wheel accordingly, or rather, merely a seg- 
 ment of its circle, is exposed to the cloth. The 
 other portion of the wheel is shielded by an exterior 
 rim, which indeed encircles the whole, but does not 
 exclude the cloth from the segment. 
 
 383. The wheel, thus made, is placed to rotate 
 on its centre in front of the breast beam, so that the 
 teeth of the segment only may come in contact with 
 the cloth, and keep it at the required width. The 
 selvage is thus held on the teeth in the arc of a 
 circle, and as neither the teeth, nor the selvage in 
 contact with the teeth, sustain by this action a uni- 
 formity of strain, the selvage is apt to be torn 
 between the teeth, or injured from the size of the 
 punctures which they make; and as the teeth are 
 constantly changing their relationship to the cloth, — 
 entering and leaving it as it passes over them in its 
 
192 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 way to the beam, they are apt thus to loose hold of 
 it, and the more especially at the striking of the lathe 
 on the fell. 
 
 384. Much of the objection, however, attending 
 this mode of action is obviated by a very simple con- 
 trivance for taking the strain off the temple-teeth. 
 This improvement is effected merely by a projection, 
 on the exterior rim of the temple, which is made to 
 lap the selvage over it. The strain is thus chiefly 
 borne on the shoulder of the projection, whilst the 
 overlapping by it presents the selvage properly 
 deflected to the teeth. 
 
 385. Fig. 4th Plate XV, is a representation of 
 the rotatory temple, as it is placed on the breast 
 beam to act on the cloth, a is the exterior rim, b 
 the projection on it, c the wheel, and the oblique 
 dotted lines point to the segment of it which acts on 
 the selvage. One temple is placed opposite each 
 other to act on its respective selvage ; and to guard 
 against injury from the shuttle being driven against 
 it by the reed, the temple is made to slide back 
 in the frame in which it is placed, on such an 
 accident taking place. The frame is consequently 
 made to permit the temples to slide on it in the 
 direction of the warp, simply by its edges overlapping 
 the edge of the plate to which the temple is screwed 
 with the centre pin on which it rotates, so as to guide 
 it in the required direction ; and to keep it steady 
 in its sliding-place, the temple plate is pressed up 
 against the overlapping edges of the plate in which it 
 slides by a spring acting from the under side. 
 
 386. Fig. 5th is a view of the temple apparatus 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 193 
 
 from the under side, or the plan as seen in Fig. 
 4th reversed ; and a side view is given in Fig. 6th. 
 The spring is, therefore, seen in both these views. 
 The overlapping plate c, again, is seen both in the 
 plan, Fig. 4th, and in the edge, or side view, Fig. 
 6th. The overlapping plate, it will be observed, is 
 slotted as well as the frame /, which carries it, that 
 it may be both set at the required distance from the 
 fell, and adapted as to its position laterally, to 
 different widths of work, so far as the slit in the 
 frame will permit it. The thumb-screw f regulates 
 or adjusts the temples as to the width at which they 
 are to be set for acting on the selvage, according to 
 the breadth of the web and the degree of extension 
 that they may be required to make ; — whilst the two 
 bolts g <7, seen in all the views here presented of the 
 temple, secure the overlapping plate to the frame, 
 and thus keep the temple firmly in its place as set 
 for acting on the selvage. The slit or slot, therefore, 
 in the frame, is designed to adapt the temples to 
 different widths of work, and the slot in the over- 
 lapping plate, to the distance at which they are to 
 be set from the fell. When the temple in any case 
 is driven back by the accidental stoppage of the 
 shuttle between it and the reed, (which may happen 
 in consequence of the protector not doing its duty,) 
 it must be set forward again by the worker. 
 
 387. The roller temple, again, is different from 
 either of these, both as to construction and action, — 
 it consists simply of a roller and a half tube. Both 
 the roller and the half tube are of the same length, 
 a little longer than the width of the web. The rol- 
 
 N 
 
194 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ler is made to turn on its pivots longitudinally in the 
 half tube, with the web between them. The roller 
 is on the upper side of the web, as seen in Fig. 8th, 
 and placed across it, as near the fell as the half tube 
 will permit it. The exterior edge of the half tube, 
 next the fell, supports the web at the required level 
 in front of the lathe. The half tube is, therefore, 
 a fixture, whilst the roller turns by the pressure of 
 the cloth under it in its way to the beam. 
 
 388. The web is thus deflected over the edge of 
 the half tube by the roller, as seen in Fig. 9th ; and 
 kept distended by the friction which it suffers in 
 passing over it. But as the cloth shrinks more 
 readily towards the selvage, the roller is roughened 
 there like a file, to prevent it; or, what seems to do 
 better, a layer of India rubber about an eighth of 
 an inch thick is run round it for about a fourth of 
 its length towards each end. 
 
 389. Fig. 8th is a bird's eye view of the roller in 
 contact with the cloth, and Fig. 9th is an end view. 
 a 9 b, c, are respectively the cloth, roller, and half 
 tube. The roller is about an inch in diameter, and 
 of course the concavity of the half tube is some- 
 what more. 
 
 390. The roller temple is thus simple in its con- 
 struction and action, — more so than either of the 
 other two, and, therefore, less liable to derangement; 
 and in one respect it has an advantage in its action, 
 inasmuch as it restrains the cloth from shrinking by 
 pressure, in some measure, throughout its width, — 
 whilst the nipper and rotatory temples, we have seen, 
 keep the cloth extended by pulling the selvage only ; 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 195 
 
 the latter depending entirely on the strength of the 
 selvage threads to withstand the transverse strain 
 which it brings upon them. 
 
 391. Neither of the temples, according to their 
 mode of acting, can do more than retain the cloth 
 at the width at which they receive it ; and as the 
 cloth shrinks so far according to the distance from 
 the fell at which it is taken hold of, the temples 
 should therefore be set as near the fell as they can 
 be made to work : this is especially necessary for 
 heavy work. The nipper temple may be set at about 
 ^ or § of an inch from the fell; and the rotatory and 
 roller about -§. There must thus be some shrinking 
 of the cloth before it reaches the temples, and, of 
 course, the reed will so far suffer a degree of strain 
 whichever of the temples is used. 
 
 392. To do their work aright the temples should 
 keep the cloth at the fell in weaving at the width of 
 the web in the reed. Neither of the temples can 
 effect this fully. The nipper temple like the others 
 not only cannot take it at this width, but it looses 
 hold of it when most needed — at the very time the 
 reed is about to strike the fell. The action of the 
 nipper temple, however, is attended with no injury 
 to the cloth, and as it is direct in its contact with 
 the selvage it has a considerable command over the 
 work during its action on it. The rotatory temple 
 in this latter respect is a medium between the nipper 
 and the roller sort; — less efficient perhaps than either, 
 and more liable to injure the cloth, and certainly less 
 simple than the roller, it has no special claim to 
 attention. Its adaptation is to light work, and that 
 
196 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 of the nipper is more generally applicable, without 
 being more especially so ; whilst the principle of the 
 roller is better fitted for a wider range of work 
 than either of them. But as the roller effects its 
 purpose merely by the friction on the cloth by 
 deflecting it over a fixture, it has no direct power 
 of extension within itself ; and were the work very 
 heavy it would be difficult to keep it extended and 
 steady in the deflected state. 
 
 393. This objection might be obviated, however, 
 by making the roller a screw-worm with the threads 
 right and left handed, running of course in opposite 
 directions from the centre, and acting on the cloth 
 with little deflection. Motion in this case should be 
 communicated to the roller so as to turn it some- 
 what faster than the web is moved by the beam, and 
 the threads should be rounded to prevent them 
 from injuring the cloth. The extension from this 
 roller will thus be direct, and in proportion to its 
 speed. The speed, however, should be slow, so as 
 not to injure the cloth ; and if the effect require to 
 be increased, this may be done to any degree by using 
 two rollers screwed in the same manner, to work 
 together with the cloth between them. 
 
 394. These three temples are the subjects of 
 patents. The two first seem to be American in 
 their origin ; but improved and patented in this 
 country. The nipper, by William Graham Esq. 
 Lancefield, Glasgow, in 1834; and the rotatory in 
 1841, by Messrs. Craig and Cochran of Stockport. 
 The roller temple is of a still more recent date, and 
 is the invention of Mr Bullouch of Blackburn. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 197 
 
 395. The power loom is thus brought to such a 
 state that the duty of the weaver is limited to the 
 general superintendence of the work, so as to manage 
 it in such a manner as to keep the loom a-going with 
 the least possible discontinuance. Unavoidable inter- 
 ruptions in working it, take place from breakage in 
 weaving, and from the discontinuance of the weft 
 shot ; and as unobserved breakage of the yarn is 
 generally attended with scobbing, and always at least 
 with some injury to the cloth if it were merely from 
 the want of the thread, the weaver has to pay an 
 especial attention to the yarn ; because if scobbing has 
 taken place, that part of the cloth should be taken out 
 again, which is time lost; and in either case, the bro- 
 ken thread must be immediately tied, and as quickly 
 as possible. And that no time be lost in supplying the 
 loom with weft, two shuttles are furnished to each 
 loom, one of which is kept ready with a fresh cope to 
 supply the place of the one in use as soon as it may 
 have run out. 
 
 396. Little time is lost in taking the cloth from 
 the loom. This operation is usually done at the end 
 of every piece. The pieces are generally, in calico 
 goods, 9,5 yards in length, or double that number : 
 and as a single piece may be about the daily average 
 production of a power loom, it recurs only once or 
 twice in two days ; and five minutes will then be 
 sufficient for effecting it. 
 
 397* Thus the business of the weaver in attend- 
 ance on the power loom, is not laborious ; nor do 
 the duties require much time in the aggregate for 
 their performance ; nor skill, but rather a nimble- 
 
198 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 ness of hand ; and hence young women are almost 
 universally the weavers by power in the factories, 
 and each person manages two looms. But although 
 the duties are not toilsome, they are far from being 
 unattended with fatigue, arising from the strain on 
 the arterial system in maintaining the upright or 
 standing position so long at the work. 
 
 398. When the web is wrought out, the new 
 one is put in by a manager called the Tenter, who 
 has the charge of a certain number of looms — as 
 many as he can well attend to. 
 
 399. The reeding and drawing of the web are 
 done out of the loom, in a frame in a separate room, 
 usually by boys. These two processes, however, are 
 necessary only when the heddles are worn out; other- 
 wise at the end of the web, the new warp is joined 
 to the old one, by twisting each individual thread of 
 the old warp behind the heddles, to a corresponding 
 one of the new. This process is likewise clone by 
 boys ; and at a separate frame, that no time be lost 
 by keeping the loom idle. 
 
 400. The warps thus prepared are put into the 
 loom, as required, by the tenter, whose business it is 
 to mount the webs, and keep the driving straps and 
 tackling of the looms under his charge in order. 
 
 401. The tenter is, therefore, properly speaking, 
 the weaver ; and as he has the control of the loom, 
 supposing it properly made, the production of the 
 cloth as to quantity, and even as to quality, will very 
 much depend on the manner in which he exemplifies 
 the art of weaving in his management of it : — 
 
 Firsts As to the yarn, that it suffer no unnecessary 
 strain in the loom ; — 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 199 
 
 I. As to position — That the warp be in a straight 
 line : 
 
 II. As to stretch — That it be of the proper length: 
 
 III. As to direction — In the line of the stroke of 
 the lathe : 
 
 IV. As to support — That it be maintained in the 
 proper line : 
 
 V. As to tension — That it be properly paced : — 
 
 Secondly, That it suffer no unnecessary strain 
 from the motions in weaving ; — 
 
 I. As to size — That the motions be the smallest 
 that can be rendered sufficient : 
 
 II. As to the arrangement as affecting the mo- 
 tions of the shed and the lathe — That there be no 
 unnecessary space between the heddles and the fell: 
 
 III. As affecting the shed — That the shuttle be 
 as thin as is barely sufficient for a pirn or cope not 
 inconveniently small : 
 
 IV. That the size of the shed be barely sufficient 
 to receive the shuttle : 
 
 V. That the shuttle line in working be as near 
 the heddles as the lathe can be made to permit it : 
 
 VI. That the lathe be properly constructed for 
 that purpose ; 
 
 1st, As affecting the shuttle line and the 
 shed — That that part of the sole from the 
 reed to the back of the swords be as narrow 
 as is compatible with the requisite strength ; 
 
 2dly, That the protector be so placed as 
 to require no additional space between the 
 swords and the heddles ; 
 
200 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 3dly, That the sole in front of the race 
 be not inconveniently broad : 
 VII. As to the stroke of the lathe — that it be of 
 the proper length — about three times the breadth of 
 the shuttle : — 
 
 Thirdly, That the motions, as to quality, be 
 good ;— 
 
 I. As to the lathe — Steady and firm in action : 
 
 II. As to the shed — Steady and easy in motion : 
 
 III. As to picking — Free and easy in action : — 
 
 Fourthly \ That the form or kind of the motions 
 be such as is best adapted for speed in weaving; and 
 performed so as to save the yarn, and as quickly as 
 is compatible with their own stability in action ; — 
 
 I. That of the lathe — eccentric without angularity : 
 
 II. Timed in its eccentricity to the motion of the 
 ' shuttle ; 
 
 1st, As to the length of the pauses at the 
 full stroke and the fell ; 
 
 Sdly, As to the acceleration of its motion 
 from the fell to receive the shuttle ; 
 
 3dly, As to its acceleration to the fell : 
 
 III. That the shed be eccentric in accordance 
 with the eccentricity of the lathe: — 
 
 Fifthly, That the motions be performed conjointly 
 in the proper order of succession — so as to save 
 time and save the yarn ; — 
 
 I. As to the lathe — Regulating, as by its action, 
 the other motions of weaving: 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 201 
 
 II. As to the shed — That it rise as by the stroke 
 of the lathe on the fell : 
 
 III. As to the shuttle — That the action be im- 
 parted to it at the proper time, as the lathe is rising 
 from the fell. 
 
 402. The manager of a weaving factory, who 
 has the charge of the establishment, should be well 
 acquainted with the principles and practice of weav- 
 ing, and with the capabilities of machinery. But 
 these qualifications are not easily acquired, and are 
 rarely combined. Weaving as an art is seldom well 
 exemplified. The management of the yarn in the 
 loom, so as to effect all that can be clone with it, de- 
 pends in a high degree on a nice perception of the r 
 strain which yarn is capable of bearing, compared^ ^ 
 
 with what it must neccessarily suffer in the process of \ j x 
 
 weaving ; and this talent in discriminating weighty * f 
 is best brought out by practice on the hand loom. Vr£ 
 
 403. But the ability to distinguish with niceness V V> ( 
 and precision the difference between relative forces, 
 
 and the ability to dispose of them to the most advan- 
 tage, are not common qualities of mind; and as they 
 are both necessary to the attainment of eminence in 
 the art, it is not surprising that a high degree of 
 skill in the management of the yarn should be rarely 
 exemplified in practice. 
 
 404. Hence the practice, so commonly met with, 
 of working with excessive motions ; — and as a con- 
 sequence of its severity on the yarn, a low speed 
 becomes advantageous, as necessary ,to prevent 
 excessive breakage in weaving. 
 
202 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 405. Thus the practice becomes established by- 
 common usage, and is adopted as a matter of course 
 in weaving by power ; and hence the rule as acted 
 upon in a general way by Mill managers, that the 
 size of the shed is to be sufficient to clear the shuttle. 
 
 406. The principles of weaving are homogene- 
 ous, and admit of no special exception in their ap- 
 plication to fabrics made either by hand or power 
 looms. But they are limited in their adaptation by 
 the qualities of the yarn, and the texture of the 
 cloth. From sailcloths to the finest muslins, the 
 gradation is great. These are extremes in make ; 
 and the chief element in the one, as necessary to 
 effect the texture, is power to get through the work : 
 the object, therefore, as most advantageous in such 
 fabrics, is to economize the power. But in the other, 
 where the power expended on the texture is com- 
 paratively small, the saving to be effected is chiefly 
 through the means as preventing the breakage of 
 the yarn, so as to maintain the utmost speed in 
 weaving. 
 
 407. Calicoes are a sort of mean between these 
 extreme fabrics — requiring neither special power to 
 get on the weft, nor a special arrangement of the 
 means to save the yarn : and the object sought, as 
 necessary to turn out the greatest quantity of cloth, 
 is the highest speed in weaving which the yarn and 
 the machinery can be made to maintain. 
 
 408. Now it must never be overlooked, that, in 
 good practice, breakage of the yarn in weaving is 
 not a consequence of speed in shuttling. The only 
 additional strain deserving of notice, which the yarn 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 203 
 
 sustains from speed in shuttling, is that resulting 
 from the diminution of time in the formation of the 
 shed ; and as the strain on the yarn in shedding is 
 as the square of the distance passed over by the 
 warp, divided by the time, this additional strain 
 from the speed — if the shed is properly formed, so as 
 to increase the time from the entrance of the shuttle 
 at the selvage as the strain increases, and above all, 
 if the size of the shed is the smallest that can be 
 rendered sufficient — will be a very small fractional 
 quantity, of no value compared with the absolute 
 strength of the yarn ; and, therefore, practically 
 speaking, productive of no breakage. 
 
 409. The great source of breakage in weaving 
 arises from overshedding ; and this will appear evi- 
 dent if we consider the relative strain, as borne by 
 the yarn in working two similar fabrics, where all 
 things are equal except the shedding, which is two 
 inches and one and a half respectively — a difference 
 such as results from the common practice, that the 
 shed is to clear the shuttle, and the rule as laid down 
 by the author, — that the shed is to be the smallest 
 that can be rendered sufficient to receive the shuttle. 
 In this case these two rules will exemplify a dif- 
 ference of strain on the yarn in working as 9 is to 16. 
 
 410. This mode of weaving, in accordance with 
 the practice as presented by the author, will require 
 a very trifling additional force to throw the shuttle, 
 but this deduction will be nearly equalized by the 
 diminished power required in shedding, and an ample 
 return will be made by the saving effected on the 
 yarn. 
 
204 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 411. The proper position of the yarn in the power 
 loom is less attended to than its importance requires. 
 Too much is trusted to the absolute strength of the 
 yarn ; and hence success in weaving by power has 
 hitherto depended more on the quality of the yarn 
 than on its management in the loom. 
 
 412. That harsh method of working with the 
 heddles sunk, as adopted by coarse hand-loom 
 weavers from the ease it affords them in treading 
 heavy work, is frequently met with in weaving by 
 power; and as the injury done to the yarn, from the 
 obliquity in which the warp line is placed by this 
 mode of weaving to the stroke of the lathe, is com- 
 pensated by no advantage received by the work, ft 
 should be discarded from power-loom practice. 
 
 413. The object of this arrangement of the hed- 
 dles, it is true, is to facilitate the action of the lathe 
 on the fell ; but the lathe should be sufficient to 
 effect its purpose without any arrangement injurious 
 to the yarn. 
 
 414. This harsh mode of working is frequently 
 accompanied by another injurious practice borrowed 
 likewise from coarse Gingham weaving, namely that 
 of treading on the shot. The yarn is thereby deprived 
 of the assistance which it should receive from the 
 stroke of the lathe, in turning the shed, and subjected 
 to severe traction and friction from the driving up 
 of the weft shot, so that a knot or lump on the yarn, 
 such as is frequently met with, in coming within the 
 path of the reed is very liable to occasion the break- 
 age of the thread behind the heddles. This mode 
 of weaving, which is admissible only where the yarn 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 205 
 
 is sufficiently strong to stand it as a means of spread- 
 ing the weft in coloured work, or such as has little 
 subsequent dressing in coming from the loom, must 
 not be confounded with the art of weaving as neces- 
 sary to save the yarn. 
 
 415. If then the yarn in the loom, for work of 
 this sort, is favourably placed, as to position, and 
 the motions good as to quality and proportion, and 
 performed in the proper order of succession, speed in 
 shuttling will be limited only by the action that the 
 machine is fitted for undergoing. Time must be 
 given the shuttle to cross the web. This is a 
 measure, which although compressible, has its maxi- 
 mum and minimum, by which the duration of the 
 other motions of shuttling must be regulated ; and 
 therefore, to gain the highest speed in shuttling, the 
 motions of the lathe and the shed must be eccentric 
 to the greatest degree compatible with their own 
 stability in action ; so as to economize time for the 
 transit of the shuttle. The lathe, therefore, as it leads 
 the shuttle into action, must have such a degree of 
 eccentricity as fits it for the speed imparted to the 
 shuttle. 
 
 41 6. All things being as they ought to be, this 
 speed at which the shuttle may be thrown for 
 yard wide calicoes, may be safely calculated at about 
 120 shots per minute — a low degree of speed is 
 incompatible with a high degree of art in the make 
 and management of the loom. 
 
 417. Some machine makers construct their looms 
 for great speed, with very short connecting rods to 
 increase the eccentricity of the lathe ; but as there 
 
206 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 is some weakness and hesitancy in the action of 
 the crank in passing its centre of motion, especially 
 when the obliquity in working is great from the 
 shortness of the connecting rods, they therefore 
 employ a small fly-wheel to counteract it, which is 
 placed on the crank shaft inside of the driving pulley 
 for that purpose. But it would be better to make 
 the shaft with its gearing heavy enough for its own 
 action, so as to require no assistance from superad- 
 ded weight to increase its momentum. In that case 
 a connecting rod and shaft such as those presented 
 in the drawing of the loom as made by Mr Grandi- 
 son, are sufficient. The bend in the connecting-rod 
 is to clear it of the heddle shafts in working. 
 
 418. This loom weighs about thirteen hundred- 
 weight in all, and is fitted to work a considerable 
 range of fabrics. Heavy calicoes or domestics with 
 a grist of yarn of about 20 s is the sort of work for 
 which it is especially fitted. 
 
 419. But if the work is very much coarser, the 
 loom should be still heavier made ; and for the weav- 
 ing of linen especially, even of the same grist of 
 yarn, it should be not only heavier than is sufficient 
 for a similar fabric of cotton, but likewise longer in 
 the stretch on account of the greater rigidity of the 
 fibres of flax. 
 
 420. The quality of the yarn as to its elasticity 
 has not been sufficiently considered in the applica- 
 tion of the power loom to linen and woollen weaving. 
 The arrangement and construction of the loom as 
 adopted in cotton weaving have been too closely imi- 
 tated, and with less success, as might be expected 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 207 
 
 from the greater defectiveness in the adaptation of 
 the machinery. 
 
 421. All fabrics have some peculiarity in the 
 mode of working them dependent on the quality of 
 the material of which they are made. 
 
 422. Linen from the strength and rigidity of its 
 fibres requires to be heavily paced in weaving, and 
 as the heddles in shedding have little relief from the 
 elasticity of the yarn, an increased length of stretch 
 of perhaps about six inches should be given the 
 web as an accommodation to their action. And as 
 an assistance to the pace, the beams, especially the 
 yarn roll, should be strong and heavy, with a 
 diameter of nine or ten inches ; and for the beam- 
 heads on which the pace runs, from about fourteen to 
 sixteen inches. The inertia of the rolls is thus 
 brought by the action of the pace to counteract the 
 weight of the yarn, by which it is more easily kept 
 in a proper state of tension for weaving. 
 
 423. From the rigidity of the yarn in linen 
 weaving the shuttle is apt to be thrown out by any 
 trifling obstruction in the shed. This is a source of 
 considerable annoyance to the trade. In similar 
 cases in cotton and woollen weaving the yarn yields 
 to the force of the shuttle ; but in linen weaving by 
 power, as the shuttle used is the same as to size and 
 weight as that adapted for cotton, it is too light to 
 make its way undisturbed by superior resistance 
 frequently obliquely placed to its course, and must 
 in such cases be thrown out. 
 
 424. The size and weight of the shuttle should 
 in all fabrics be proportioned to the weight of the 
 
208 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 yarn; and in linen an additional allowance of length, 
 breadth, and especially weight should be given it, so 
 as to enable it to overcome any little obstruction in 
 the shed, and keep its course unaffected by it, from 
 its own momentum. 
 
 425. In woollen weaving, from the elasticity of 
 the yarn, especially if the fabric is light, the stroke 
 of the lathe on the fell is rendered more effective by 
 its partaking somewhat of the action of a squeeze. 
 This kind of action is easily imparted by diminish- 
 ing the motion of the lathe a little at the fell, and 
 keeping the cloth forward to it in the working. 
 
 426. The flyer, in weaving in this manner by 
 power, is well adapted for producing this action by 
 pressure. But in blanket weaving and in the other 
 heavy sorts of woollen or mixed fabrics such as are 
 made in Trowbridge, any adaptation of this sort, 
 or especial arrangement in the motion of the lathe, 
 except that dependent on the width of the work, 
 is wholly unnecessary. 
 
 427. That description of goods which is known 
 by the name of checks is made of all materials in 
 common use for cloth, as cotton, woollen, linen and 
 silk, or a mixture of them. 
 
 428. The check is formed by having the warp 
 striped in a certain order by warping yarn of dif- 
 ferent qualities, either as to grist or colour, and 
 crossing these stripes in weaving, at the proper inter- 
 vals to form the squares, with the corresponding 
 kinds of weft. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 209 
 
 429. Checks are, therefore, woven with a variety 
 of shuttles corresponding to the number of colours, 
 or kinds of yarn, used as weft, to form the pattern 
 with the warp. 
 
 430. The shuttles must, therefore, be changed for 
 this purpose in weaving with them, and this is done 
 by rendering the box moveable at least at one end 
 of the lathe, and forming it with a separate berth or 
 box for each of the shuttles intended to be used in 
 the work. The movement of the whole box is, there- 
 fore, made in a certain measured manner correspond- 
 ing to the breadth or depth (according as the box is 
 made) of each of the separate boxes — so that any of 
 the shuttles may be brought as required to the plane 
 of the race and the reed, and used till another change 
 becomes necessary. 
 
 431. In check weaving by hand, there are two 
 methods in common use in which the box is made 
 for effecting the required change of the shuttles. 
 By the one method it is made to slide vertically on 
 guides or spindles, as seen in the transverse section 
 of the power loom, Fig. 1 st, Plate XIII, with the 
 shuttle boxes shelving above each other parallel 
 with the race. This is called the Drop box, and 
 was invented by Mr Robert Key, son of the inventor 
 of the fly shuttle, in I76O. 
 
 432. The other is the Swing box, seen Fig. 5th, 
 in the same plate, which is made to vibrate horizon- 
 tally, with the boxes placed in the plane of the race, 
 by being attached to a pendulous framing supported 
 on pivots from a bar made fast to the sword of the 
 lathe for that purpose. 
 
 o 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 433. Both of these kinds of boxes are worked 
 with the weaver's hand as it is engaged with the 
 lathe. The motion of the hand for this purpose is 
 a traversing one, but in so small a degree as to be 
 attended with little inconvenience to the weaver. 
 
 434. In working the drop box, as it requires 
 merely to be raised, and falls by its own weight, the 
 action of the thumb in moving to and from the other 
 fingers of the hand is usually sufficient for this purpose. 
 
 435. The communication with the box for effect- 
 ing the motion in this manner is maintained by a 
 lever, which is placed above it so that it may vibrate 
 horizontally ; and from which the box is suspended 
 at the one end like a balance. A cord is attached to 
 it at the other end, and made fast to a sliding catch 
 which moves in a groove in the upper shell, and on 
 which the weaver's thumb rests in working, so as to 
 act upon it by drawing it in towards the other fingers 
 of the hand, as the required movement of the box 
 may render this motion of the thumb necessary. 
 The direction of the catch-cord is changed of course 
 to suit the direction in which the catch slides, by the 
 pulley in the upper shell. 
 
 436. The swing box is better fitted than the other 
 for work requiring many shuttles, as their weight in 
 this case in moving them, does not rest on the 
 thumb. But as the motion is greater in proportion 
 to the number of boxes, the radial range of the 
 movement of the thumb becomes insufficient for 
 effecting it, and the swing box is, therefore, usually 
 shifted by a sliding catch in which the whole hand is 
 placed in working with it. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 211 
 
 437. The connection of the box with the sliding 
 catch is effected with a cross-cord, by which it is 
 pulled back or forward, as required for the change of 
 the shuttle, according to the direction in which the 
 slider or sliding catch is moved by the hand. This 
 movement is effected by the opposite directions in 
 which the two ends of the cord are attached to the 
 slider, from where the pulley by which they are 
 deflected is fixed on the upper shell. 
 
 438. The range in the motion of the box is thus 
 dependent on the number of shuttles it contains, and 
 each move is measured in spaces equal to the breadth 
 of each box by a check^catch, which stops it at the 
 proper place, that any of the shuttles may be brought 
 to run in the plane of the reed and race, as required 
 by the weaver. The check-catch is likewise worked 
 by a cord, which passes over the weaver's hand, and is 
 fixed to the upper shell so that by the motion merely 
 of the finger, it is allowed to act at the first move 
 or not, according as the change in the pattern may 
 render it necessary. 
 
 439. Checks are generally heavy made fabrics, 
 about the set of calicoes, especially those of Carlisle 
 and Manchester ; and, therefore, no special adap- 
 tation of the loom from what has been already 
 described for such work, is necessary for them, 
 except that dependent on the motion for changing 
 the shuttles. 
 
 440. Accordingly, this sort of work was very 
 early attempted to be done by power ; and Dr. Cart- 
 wright has the merit of being the first experimen- 
 talist in check weaving by machinery. In his plan 
 
212 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 for effecting it, which he patented in 1792, he adopted 
 the swing-box in connecting it with the power ; and 
 communicated motion to it from a ratchet wheel, 
 which was turned by the action of the lathe. 
 
 441. This movement was effected from tappets, 
 or projections fixed on the same axle with the 
 ratchet, which acted on a lever connected to the 
 box by cords, for moving it in the required direc- 
 tion. The number of these tappets gives a cor- 
 responding number of changes to the pattern, whilst 
 the number of teeth, or moves, between the tappets, 
 determines the number of shots in the change, or 
 stripe of the check. The size of the pattern, of 
 course, is limited by the number of teeth, or moves, 
 made in the circumference of the wheel. 
 
 442. Dr. Cartwright's plan, however, was not 
 successful ; and fell into disuse, or rather never 
 came into use, and indeed was totally neglected. 
 The difficulties under which the power loom itself 
 was labouring were sufficient to account for a result 
 of this sort, without recurring in explanation of it 
 to defects in its construction. 
 
 443. But although the loom had been prepared 
 for it, the manner in which the movement was 
 effected was ill adapted for power. The communica- 
 tion by means of cords for effecting a certain measure 
 of motion is inapplicable to machinery, from the alter- 
 ations as to their length which they undergo in 
 working. But besides, they are attended with a dis- 
 turbing influence in their action from the dangling 
 of their weight, whilst the vibrating action of the 
 box is that most likely to be affected by the injurious 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 213 
 
 influence inseparable from this means of communi- 
 cation. 
 
 444. The box was thus liable to be affected both 
 by disturbance in its motion and uncertainty in its 
 action. But supposing the loom had been prepared 
 for it, and the defects which we have noticed 
 entirely remedied, it would have been greatly over- 
 drawing on the best construction of which the means 
 was capable, to expect much success from it, so long 
 as the box, or the machinery, was exposed to damage 
 or breakage by any accidental stoppage of the driver 
 or the shuttle in working; — and so it was, when the 
 subject was again recurred to by various mechanics 
 throughout the country, (after the loom itself had 
 been brought into a better working condition,) 
 although their contrivances were free from these 
 objections, so little success was experienced in work- 
 ing by it from this defect alone, that the produc- 
 tion of the loom could not be depended on ; and 
 notwithstanding that the whole of the time of the 
 weaver was engaged with one loom, he could not be 
 set on piece-work with it. Check weaving by power 
 was long in this condition ; and of course the pat- 
 terns as wrought in this manner are of the simplest 
 kind, — eight or ten shots about with two shuttles. 
 
 445. The method adopted and used in various 
 places is that of raising the box by a ratchet wheel, 
 which is worked from the motion of the lathe. The 
 box used is the drop one, as being best fitted from 
 its stability in action for weaving by power. The 
 ratchet wheel is placed horizontally under the box, 
 with a projection on its surface, which raises the 
 
214 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 box to the level of the race, and keeps it there as 
 long as the rotation of the wheel is made to do so. 
 The projection on the face of the wheel thus raises 
 the under box to the level of the race, and it drops 
 of course from its own weight on being withdrawn 
 from it as the wheel turns round. 
 
 446. In weaving with the drop box, the driver, 
 of course, is placed on its side to slide horizontally 
 on the spindle, with its tongue resting in a small 
 groove in the back of the box. This is an unfavour- 
 able arrangement, both for the driver and for its 
 action on the shuttle. The groove gets wide by wear, 
 and gets so unequally, and thus the shuttle, in being 
 thrown by the driver, is disturbed in the plane of its 
 course ; besides, the driver is frequently tripped or 
 stopped, from this and other causes, in passing from 
 the groove of the moveable box to the fixed groove 
 at the end of it in the frame, in which it rests till 
 the next shot is to be thrown ; and in this case some- 
 thing must then give way, as there is here no means 
 for preventing it. A long spring was used in some 
 cases, it is true, as in check weaving by hand, but 
 this is an inconvenient means, as its action is most 
 exerted where it is useless or mischievous to act at 
 all, and, therefore, it was liable to give way, and 
 attended with other disadvantages, so that a lower 
 speed becomes necessary in working with it than the 
 box is otherwise fitted to bear. A spiral spring 
 w r as afterwards used, and applied to act on the pick- 
 ing pin placed at the side of the loom, with partial 
 success ; but these defects are entirely obviated by 
 the method invented by the author for weaving 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 215 
 
 work of this sort, and which is more extensive in 
 its range, — adapted indeed to any description of 
 check with any required number of shuttles — by 
 which the apparatus connected with the box is as 
 manageable and as safe as any other part of the 
 machinery. 
 
 447. Fig. 1st, Plate XIII, is a transverse section 
 of this check power loom, taken immediately in front 
 of the lathe, and Fig. 2nd is an end elevation. 
 The letters A A A in both diagrams, refer to 
 the loom frame ; and the corresponding parts in 
 each are distinguished by the same letters. 0 is 
 the lathe, u the drop box, q the driver placed to 
 slide on two spindles so as to require no tongue, 
 as seen in the end view of the driver, Fig. 7th. 
 The end of the driver which strikes the shuttle 
 is thus made to need no support either from the box 
 or the end framing, and has no connection with it. 
 The shuttle is, therefore, free from any disturbance, 
 to which it would otherwise be exposed, from the 
 wearing of the tongue or groove, or accidental trip- 
 ping by the driver. 
 
 448. The means for preventing the stoppage of 
 the driver in the way of the box, and, therefore, of 
 preventing the damage and breakage arising from it, 
 without the intervention of a spring, consists of a 
 light lever rod made to communicate both with the 
 driver and the treadle nearest it. 
 
 449. The lever is, therefore, formed with two arms 
 set nearly at right angles to each other, and put on a 
 stud near the rocking-tree under the box, in the 
 plane of the treadles, as seen in Fig. 1st. The 
 
216 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 long upright arm v f reaches to the driver, to which 
 it is attached ; and the short one w' communicates 
 by another lever x' to the nearest treadle, by which 
 on its being depressed by the wiper, the driver is, 
 of course, pulled back to the end of the box ; and 
 thus all interference with its movement is effectually 
 prevented, without any strain or inconvenience to 
 the apparatus in picking, 
 
 450. The manner in which the movement of the 
 box is effected is evident from Fig. 1st. The power, 
 it will be seen, is employed to raise the box to the 
 level of the race, as the shuttles are to be succes- 
 sively changed ; and it falls again in repeating the 
 changes by its own gravity. 
 
 451. The box, therefore, requires to be kept up 
 t^b the level of the race, during the working of each 
 successive change from the first ; and this is effected 
 by means of a treadle on which the power is brought 
 to act. 
 
 452. The best place for the communication of 
 the treadle with the box is perpendicularly below it, 
 as near the rocking-tree as the space required for its 
 own motion will permit, as there is there little motion 
 of the lathe. A connecting rod accordingly reaches 
 downwards from the box to the treadle, and supports 
 it at right angles, t' is the treadle placed, as seen 
 in Fig. 2nd, Plate XIII, with its centre on a stud 
 on the lower framing of the loom — y' is the connect- 
 ing rod kept in its place by the guide studs 1, 2, 
 which are screwed to the sword. 
 
 453. The treadle is worked, so as to raise the 
 boxes successively as the shuttles require to be 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 217 
 
 changed, by the pattern wheel itself, which receives 
 its motion for that purpose from a small pinion on 
 the wiper shaft. This motion of the treadle is effected 
 by the segments, 3, 4, screwed to the face of the 
 wheel ; and as each segment gives exactly so many 
 shots, according to the pattern, the number of seg- 
 ments in the circle gives the number of changes 
 in the pattern for that shuttle. 
 
 454. The next shuttle is brought up by another 
 segment concentric with the last ; and so far within 
 its circle as merely to bring the box for which it 
 acts to the level of the race. 
 
 4.55. The number of concentric circles deter- 
 mines the number of shuttles which it is fitted for 
 working; and the number of segments in each circle 
 the changes in each of the shuttles respectively. 
 
 456. When the pattern is larger than the whee 
 can be made to receive it, another wheel 5 should be 
 interposed between the pattern wheel and the wiper, 
 so as to increase the range for action by diminishing 
 the space for each change, as seen in Fig. 2nd. 
 The circumference of the wiper gives of course 
 but two shots.— Hence the range in the pattern 
 which the wheel is fitted for working will be as the 
 number of times in which two are repeated in its 
 circumference. Pullicate patterns are, however, 
 frequently formed with large bases — so large that 
 the space occupied by them will be more than can be 
 conveniently compressed within the limits of this 
 arrangement, without unfitting the movement for 
 the required action on the treadle. 
 
 457. In this case, it would be better to work the 
 
218 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the broad bases by measure, from the motion of the 
 cloth beam, and throw the check or pattern wheel 
 out of gear or in it, as required for the small check- 
 ing, at the proper intervals. This action may per- 
 haps be best accomplished by working the pattern 
 wheel as a ratchet ; and engaging or disengaging it 
 by a catch, with which it may be worked from the 
 motion of the beam. 
 
 458. As the working of the boxes, however well 
 managed, is necessarily attended with some loss of 
 time in shifting them, the speed of the loom should 
 be decreased according to the number of shuttles 
 which the box is made to work. Eighty shots a 
 minute may be taken as a good working speed for 
 two shuttles — diminishing the velocity at the rate 
 perhaps of about ten shots per cent, for each ad- 
 ditional shuttle used. 
 
 459. The box, with the view of diminishing its 
 motion within the narrowest limit possible, should 
 be made with its individual boxes as shallow as the 
 shuttle will permit them to be ; and it might be 
 desirable, as it is attended with a saving in this re- 
 spect, to make the shelves for the shuttles of metal — 
 plate brass. In that case, the outsides of the boxes 
 will be formed by bending down the plate as far as 
 the driver will permit it, which will be sufficient 
 lateral security for the shuttle, without any edging 
 under the driver ; and, that the shuttle be prevented 
 from getting through the box, the side at the end 
 may be bent inwards, and secured in that position 
 by soldering a band to it, so as to catch the shuttle by 
 the shoulder when it reaches the end of the box. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 219 
 
 460. By making the shuttle shelves in this man- 
 ner, of metal instead of wood (and indeed the whole 
 of the box should be of the same material) a saving 
 of about one and a half inches in the working of the 
 range of three or four shuttles will be effected, 
 which is of consequence, chiefly as it diminishes the 
 shock to which the box is exposed at the final shift, 
 in falling down upon the under framing ; and as a 
 further security in working with many boxes, it 
 may be found beneficial to counterbalance their 
 weight at the opposite end of the lathe, — and it 
 may likewise be advantageous to regulate their 
 weight, as effecting their descent, by the box treadle 
 t f , on which the power acts. The author, in work- 
 ing with two boxes, used a lever-spring to raise the 
 box and the power to depress it, — as a means of 
 obtaining stability of action, so as to gain great 
 speed in shuttling, — with the desired effect. 
 
 461. As the integrity of the pattern in check 
 weaving depends on each stripe having its exact 
 complement of shots, the attention of the weaver is 
 necessarily much engaged in looking after the shut- 
 tles, to prevent the piece from being damaged by 
 unobserved breakage of any of the shots in weaving. 
 The weft shot protector in work of this sort is, 
 therefore, peculiarly serviceable in weavingby power; 
 and valuable, as it may relieve the attention of the 
 weaver by depending on its assistance, so that he 
 may be able to attend to another loom, which with- 
 out it he could not safely engage with. 
 
 462. A loom similarly constructed to that here 
 presented, was patented by Mr Thomas Yates of 
 
220 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 Bolton in 1839, several years after it was invented 
 by the author, but without the means for taking back 
 the driver, or the mode of working it on two spindles 
 without a tongue. — Mr Yates uses a spiral spring 
 attached to the picking pin for taking back the 
 driver. 
 
 463. The power loom was early applied to sail- 
 cloth and canvas weaving, but hitherto it has been 
 attended with little success. 
 
 464. We have observed that in sail-cloth weaving 
 by hand the shot is driven home by two strokes of 
 the lathe — the first on the open, and the next on the 
 cross shed, and that this mode of weaving is adopted 
 in consequence of the insufficient power of the wea- 
 ver to work with advantage a lathe sufficiently heavy 
 to strike the shot up at once. 
 
 465. Now the power loom for sail-cloth weaving 
 is constructed on the same principle, of working 
 with the double stroke (which is effected by a third 
 wheel driven from the wiper,) although the condition 
 as to power in which these two agencies exist is 
 nearly the reverse of each other. In the one there 
 is a deficiency, and in the other, an ample sufficiency 
 of power. 
 
 466. But the power, to be effective, must be pro- 
 perly directed. The lathe must have weight enough 
 with its motion to strike the shot home at once ; and 
 the yarn sufficient tension to retain the shot on the 
 blow. 
 
 467. In the construction of the loom, as already 
 described, neither of these conditions is fully effected 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 221 
 
 without a waste of power corresponding to the 
 reaction of the work in weaving. 
 
 468. From the inverted position of the lathe, its 
 centre of gravity is below the fell, and it strikes it, 
 therefore, with diminished effect, whilst the action 
 of the pace on the web is diminished likewise, by 
 the amount of the weight of the yarn between the 
 two beams. 
 
 469. The best position of the web for the action 
 of the pace on the yarn is in the direction of the 
 weight of the warp, as extended between the two 
 beams. This position is a vertical one ; and it is 
 also the best for the required action of the lathe on 
 the fell. 
 
 470. In this position, the lathe must be horizon- 
 tally placed, to act on the web at right angles, so that 
 its whole weight may be thrown on the weft shot in 
 working. 
 
 471. A loom constructed on this principle was 
 very early invented by Mr Johnson, the inventor of 
 the dressing machine, and patented by Mr SherrifF 
 of Glasgow, as an improvement in general weaving 
 by power ; — only that the power was used to force 
 the lathe up against the cloth. It was applied to 
 calicoes, but it was not successful. Nor indeed could 
 it be otherwise ; for independent of defects in its 
 construction, its failure as a general application to 
 weaving was certain, from the position of the yarn 
 in the loom. The facility with which the broken 
 threads come in, in the direction of their own weight, 
 brings them quickly to the fell ; or they are pre- 
 vented only by entangling themselves with other 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 threads in shedding, by which the damage is apt to 
 be immediately increased. 
 
 472. The vertical position of the web in weav- 
 ing is, therefore, unfavourable for preventing the 
 extension of damage from breakage that has taken 
 place ; and it is likewise the worst in which the 
 web can be placed for repairing the damage when 
 done. 
 
 473. This principle of weaving is, therefore, 
 applicable especially to fabrics in which breakage is 
 not to be apprehended from the working of the cloth, 
 both from the strength of the yarn, and the fewness 
 of the threads composing the warp. Sail-cloth is in 
 every respect such a fabric ; and it is a special one 
 for such a construction of loom. 
 
 474. Plate XVI represents a transverse section 
 of the vertical loom, as constructed by the author, for 
 work of this sort, from which it will be seen that 
 two looms are included in the same framing. And 
 as the work can be better attended to when the webs 
 are a little inclined towards each other at the top, a 
 few degrees of angular deviation from the vertical 
 line in that direction is, therefore, given it. 
 
 475. As the object in the placing of the lathe in 
 this arrangement of the loom is to gain the utmost 
 effect from its action, which its weight and motion can 
 impart to the fell, a right angular position to the 
 web, as near the horizontal line as possible, is there- 
 fore chosen for it, — with a sufficient leverage of the 
 swords to render the weight effective. 
 
 476. Mr Johnson, from his view of weaving, 
 constructed his loom so that the lathe was worked 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 223 
 
 in opposition to its weight from a crank below. 
 The lathe had no swords, and the sole was made to 
 move in the required direction, by being guided in 
 shears. This method of working the lathe in shears 
 or on spindles, has been adopted in the common 
 horizontal mode of weaving ; but as it wants that 
 firmness and stability in action, which can be ob- 
 tained only from leverage, it has found few imita- 
 tors, and in fact is properly out of use. 
 
 477* The force of the lathe in acting on the fell 
 in this manner, is then directly dependent on its 
 weight ; and that the momentum be not weakened 
 by interruption in the motion, the wiper, by which 
 the lathe is raised, is so formed as to let it fall with 
 its whole accelerated force on the fell at once. 
 
 478. The form of the wiper by which this is 
 effected has the curvature of its circumference in- 
 creasing in diameter from the centre, till the length 
 of the radius is sufficient for the length of the stroke 
 of the lathe, when the curve becomes circular to 
 produce the pause at the full stroke, and then it 
 terminates abruptly in a cut off portion for the fall 
 of the lathe. 
 
 479. The manner in which this is effected will 
 be seen by a reference to the Plate. A A is 
 the frame, B the yarn beam, E the cloth beam, o 
 the sword of the lathe, o' the sole, g' the wiper shaft, 
 f the wiper, which it will be perceived is in contact 
 
 with the sword, only that the pulley R is interposed to 
 diminish the friction. There are, of course, two wi- 
 pers, one to act, in the same manner, on each sword; 
 and by the revolution of the shaft, the required mo- 
 tion is imparted to the lathe. 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 480. The shuttle is thrown in the same manner 
 as that already described and represented in the 
 check power loom, Figs, 1st and 2nd, Plate XIII. 
 But as the fell is below the reed, the race between 
 the swords is moveable to clear it of the weft shot, 
 and permit the reed, on the fall of the lathe, to 
 strike it up. 
 
 481. The motion of the moveable race is back- 
 wards, in the plane of the race and the boxes, and so 
 far only as is sufficient to clear the web, on the 
 falling of the lathe at the fell. The motion for this 
 purpose will be about half the width of the shuttle 
 or a little more ; and as the race enters the shed in 
 a parallel direction to the reed, and is withdrawn from 
 it every shot, it is formed for going through the yarn 
 by being made like a long comb, with the teeth split- 
 shaped, and of sufficient strength to support the 
 shuttle when set at intervals of half an inch apart 
 from each other. 
 
 482. The race is fitted for moving in this man- 
 ner by being fixed in a frame from the swords, and 
 vibrates within them on its axis vertically something 
 in the manner of a flyer, as seen in the transverse 
 section of the loom, Plate XVI. f is the race, 
 h the vertical lever, i the loaded arm by which the 
 race is kept forward whilst the shuttle is crossing the 
 web, j is the guide by which it is pressed back on 
 the falling of the lathe to strike up the shot. 
 
 483. Thus the principle, as involved in the con- 
 struction of the loom for these heavy and powerful 
 fabrics, is weight so applied as to turn out the 
 greatest quantity of cloth by overcoming the reac- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 tion of the work in such a manner as to be attended 
 with the least injury to the machinery* 
 
 484. But as the work increases in fineness, we 
 have observed that the reaction from it diminishes 
 in the same ratio ; and, therefore, in very fine work — 
 muslins for example, the difficulty in weaving is re- 
 versed. It is no longer the reaction of the work on 
 the machinery, but the reaction of the machinery on 
 the work, that constitutes the difficulty of bring- 
 ing it successfully under the influence of this agency. 
 
 485. The power loom for muslins, therefore, must 
 be constructed so as to obviate all injurious reaction 
 on the work from the motion of the machinery; and 
 susceptible likewise of the nicest adaptation of the 
 tools by which the essential operations in weaving are 
 effected, viz. the lathe, the shuttle, and the heddles. 
 
 486. Now we have seen that the motions in- 
 cluded in shuttling are reciprocating, and discharge 
 their forces in working by power at three different 
 points in the circle ; and, therefore, as the power 
 necessary to keep the machine a-going till their 
 recurrence again is not great, a considerable degree 
 of tremulous or vibratory reaction is necessarily 
 inherent in the action of the loom, arising from this 
 irregularity of the resistance to the motive power. 
 
 487. This sort of reaction is a certain amount 
 of disturbing influence which is unavoidable, and 
 which can only be relatively diminished, or appar- 
 ently neutralized or suppressed, in the loom as di- 
 rectly impelled by power (as is already done in its 
 application to canvas and calico weaving) by increas- 
 ing the weight of the moving parts, so as to render 
 
 p 
 
226 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 their momentum, from the greatness of the weight, 
 little affected comparatively by the variable resist- 
 ance from the work. 
 
 488. The loom, therefore, as constructed to 
 work from the direct impulsion of the power, in be- 
 ing applied to fine goods is subject to one or other 
 of two defects, by either of which it is unfitted for 
 the work. It must either be made strong and heavy 
 enough to resist the reaction of its own motion, by 
 which, in fitting the tools to work in unison , with 
 the power, they are unfitted, from their weight, for 
 acting on the yarn ; or if this defect is sought to be 
 avoided, by making both machinery and tools light 
 enough for the fabric, the work suffers in a greater 
 degree by the deterioration of the motions arising 
 from the deficiency of weight in the parts to with- 
 stand the reaction of their own motion. 
 
 489. This construction of loom is, therefore, un- 
 fitted for muslin weaving. But if, instead of the 
 direct application of power, we substitute springs for 
 the movements of the shuttle and the lathe, what- 
 ever vibratory reaction may attend the motive power 
 in acting on the machine, the parts as impelled by 
 the springs will act by their own agency, uninflu- 
 enced by it. 
 
 490. We shall thus obtain by this means, a con- 
 struction of loom admitting, in the moving parts, of 
 the utmost susceptibility of motion and steadiness in 
 action, and in the tools, of the utmost adaptation to 
 the fabric. If then this principle of construction is 
 well carried out, so as to combine with these essential 
 qualities durability in working, we shall have the 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 227 
 
 loom all that it ought to be, as adapted for fine 
 weaving. 
 
 491. Such a loom, so constructed by the author 
 for muslin weaving, is represented in a front and 
 side or end view, in Plates IX and X. The lathe, 
 it will be seen, is hung in the pendulous manner, as 
 being the best adapted for susceptibility of motion ; 
 and that its action be unconstrained, the spring ope- 
 rates on it, in the direction towards the fell, at the 
 middle of the sole immediately under the reed, 
 with a pressure sufficiently uniform for practical pur- 
 poses ; whilst it is withdrawn from the fell again by 
 the action of the crank with a flexible connector R 
 attached to the lathe at each side or end for that 
 purpose. 
 
 492. The uniformity of pressure from the action 
 of the spring r 1 on the lathe, is effected by means of a 
 lever t f 9 from the manner in which the spring is 
 brought to act upon it, as seen more especially in 
 the side or end view of the loom, Plate X, Fig. 1st. 
 
 493. The lever acts as a connecting rod to the 
 lathe, and is fixed, it will be seen, Plate IX, upon a 
 horizontal axle T', which extends from side to side 
 of the loom framing, and is placed near the floor, 
 so as to vibrate with its lever t' perpendicularly to 
 the lathe. The short arm I" is fixed on the axle, 
 nearly at right angles to the connecting rod behind 
 the lathe, and on this arm the lathe spring operates 
 in the required direction to strike home the shot. 
 
 494. The motion of the spring by this means is 
 little, so as to prevent it from being liable to break- 
 age ; and as it is made lever-shaped and set on a stud 
 
228 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 r" as its fulcrum, its tension is easily regulated by the 
 end opposite the blade being furnished with a pinch- 
 ing screw r" 1 for that purpose, as seen in Fig. 1st, 
 Plate X. 
 
 495. The two springs v' v' by which the shuttle is 
 impelled, are made in the same manner, and .placed 
 to act on their respective picking shafts n at each side 
 of the loom, by means of a small arm attached to 
 each shaft for that purpose. The picking shafts 
 themselves, both as to position and form, are similar 
 to that represented in the loom for calicoes in Plates 
 V, VI, VII, and VIII. Fig. 3rd, Plate X, is a 
 detached view of the picking shaft as it is acted on 
 by the wiper f" and the spring v f 9 the greater por- 
 tion of which is broken off. n ,f is the small arm 
 with a friction pulley on which the wiper acts, and 
 n m is another small arm on the picking shaft, which 
 receives the action of the spring. 
 
 496. The form of the wipers by which the shuttle 
 springs are counteracted, and left in the proper state 
 for acting on the shuttle, is similar to that represented 
 for the motion of the lathe in canvas weaving. 
 
 497* The motion of the shed, as to the manner 
 in which the movement of the heddles is effected, is 
 of primary importance in fine weaving. To save 
 the yarn, the heddles should be worked with a 
 movement as smooth and steady as the means can 
 be contrived to make them, and as free as possible 
 from strain, that the twine of the heddles may not 
 require to be heavier to withstand the working than 
 is sufficient for effecting the shedding of the web. 
 
 498. The means here represented for effecting 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 229 
 
 this important motion, have been already described 
 in section 310 ; and in order to render their action 
 free, and as little affected as possible by any distur- 
 bance in the communication of motion, the arms ff 
 of the heddle rollers are not jointed to the connect- 
 ing rod g, but notched; and for the same reason the 
 connecting rod itself is relatively heavy, and mounted . 
 on friction rollers g' g f , so that in transmitting the 
 motion from the tappet f" of the wiper, it is not 
 liable to be affected by vibration. 
 
 499. As the lathe in this construction of loom 
 is assimilated, as to its motion, to that of the hand 
 loom, it is, therefore, subject to the same rules of 
 construction which have been already considered in 
 reference to it, as to length of sword, strength of rock- 
 ing-tree, and weight of sole, as fitting it for its work. 
 
 500. As to the use of the cord and flyer in 
 weaving by power, it may be observed that as the 
 fell is nearly an invariable line, and the force of the 
 lathe practically speaking a uniform quantity, the 
 equalizing influence of the cord is limited, compared 
 with its action in hand weaving, to a very narrow 
 range. 
 
 501. But as there is still some disturbance una- 
 voidable from every movement, and some irregu- 
 larity in the withdrawing of the cloth, which the best 
 adapted means cannot wholly obviate; and as in fine 
 textures the beauty of the work depends on fine 
 touches, the cord should be employed ; and it will 
 be found, if it be properly managed, to have a bene- 
 ficial effect in spreading the weft and giving a good 
 skin or clothy appearance to the web, in proportion 
 as the work increases in fineness. 
 
230 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 502. In applying the loom to muslins, the skill 
 of the mechanic, as to his knowledge of weaving, is 
 put to a severe test. It is not enough that he have 
 such a knowledge of the principles of the art as may- 
 be sufficient for calico and coarse weaving. His 
 success in this nice and delicate department of the 
 
 • subject will mainly depend on his clearness of per- 
 ception as to the relative strain which the yarn is 
 capable of bearing in weaving, so as to adapt his 
 means in accordance with its strength. 
 
 503. This ability to estimate resistance in this 
 practical manner is of preeminent value in the origi- 
 nation and application of machinery to a subject so 
 susceptible of strain as fine weaving : the talent of 
 inventing itself, as applied to it, is useful only as it 
 is under its guidance. This faculty, however, in the 
 high sense in which we are considering it, is rarely 
 possessed in such a degree as to be equally applicable 
 to a great variety of fabrics. It may be well fitted for 
 that to which it may have become accustomed, but it 
 is generally inefficient, both in hand and power loom 
 weaving, when applied to fabrics dissimilar either 
 as to make or material. Hence the necessity of a 
 division of labour as a means of cultivating this per- 
 ception of force, both as applicable to the performance 
 of motion and to the adaptation of it; — and the more 
 so in some respects in weaving by power, as there is a 
 tendency from the habit of handling machinery to 
 blunt its sensibility. 
 
 504. Fine and coarse weaving by power, as by 
 hand, should be under separate management, that 
 the work may not suffer from the inadaptation of the 
 means, which otherwise is certain to take place, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 231 
 
 arising from an indistinctness thereby produced in 
 the perception of the principles and practice of 
 weaving, as applicable to each. 
 
 505. Fine weaving is especially dependent on 
 the niceness in the fitness of the agency as applied 
 to it, so as to prevent breakage and favourably effect 
 the work. It is not enough that every thing injuri- 
 ously affecting the yarn should be avoided ; — the 
 art of weaving must if possible be exemplified, in 
 work of this sort, in the utmost state of improve- 
 ment to which it can be carried. 
 
 506. Especial attention must, therefore, be paid 
 to the position of the yarn in the loom — to the length 
 of the stretch — the tension of the web — the man- 
 ner in which it is supported by the roll, and kept in 
 the direction of the stroke of the lathe — to the level 
 of the heddles and their distance from the fell — to 
 the thickness of the rods, that the yarn be as little 
 as possible deflected by them, and to the distance 
 at which they are kept from the heddles in working. 
 
 507. When these arrangements have been pro- 
 perly made, according to the theory and practice of 
 weaving as already explained in reference to mus- 
 lins, the next grand consideration is as to the per- 
 formance of the motions ; and the first great rule 
 w^hich must be carried out, especially in this sort of 
 weaving, to the utmost extent, is that the size of the 
 motions, especially that of the shed, must be the 
 smallest that can be rendered sufficient. 
 
 508. All the arrangements in weaving must be 
 made in accordance with this rule. The size of the 
 shuttle, — the length of stroke of the lathe, — the 
 
232 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 distance of the heddles from the fell, must be carefully 
 attended to, as affecting it. The depth of the shut- 
 tle, as it chiefly determines the size of the shed, 
 should not be more, especially for this sort of work, 
 than is sufficient in weaving by hand — viz. a full 
 half inch. But its weight in working by power, to 
 act effectively on the protector, should be a little more 
 than is necessary in hand weaving. Its length and 
 breadth should likewise for the same reason be pro- 
 portionally greater. 
 
 509. The quality of the motions, as effected by 
 the springs, is wholly uninfluenced by the motive 
 power; and as their action is susceptible of the nicest 
 regulation, the tools or weaving implements through 
 w T hich they effect their purpose are capable of being 
 made as the work requires them. Adaptation can 
 thus be carried to the utmost, so that practically 
 speaking the two agencies of hand and power are 
 thus assimilated in action. 
 
 510. In setting the machine to perform the 
 motions conjointly in shuttling, so as to save the 
 yarn, the great rule that the shed is to be started at 
 the stroke of the lathe on the fell must be carefully 
 and well exemplified in working. 
 
 511. The importance of this rule as a means of 
 saving the yarn is not appreciated, or rather is not 
 known ; and, is therefore, loosely acted on, as a 
 matter of convenience, both in hand and power loom 
 weaving. But so great is its value, that, all other 
 things being as they ought to be, the success of the 
 weaver may be estimated from the manner in which 
 he acts upon it in practice. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 233 
 
 512. But although the motions in weaving may 
 be performed in a manner altogether faultless, and 
 the position of the yarn in the loom the best for 
 sustaining and avoiding strain, there is still another 
 consideration connected with the yarn of essential 
 importance to success in muslin weaving, both as 
 affecting the quality of the work and the quantity — 
 namely, the state in which the yarn is submitted in 
 the loom to the operation of weaving. 
 
 513. Two conditions are included in the state of 
 the yarn as fitted for fine weaving. It must be pro- 
 perly dressed, and it must be in a proper state as to 
 elasticity in being woven. It must neither be im- 
 paired by insufficient dressing, nor by brittleness as 
 affecting it in the working. Both of these conditioner—^ 
 must be secured to the yarn, so as to fit it for uo/\ *Xo 
 ing what is required of it in fine weaving. 
 
 514. The elasticity of the yarn is preserved, in A 
 weaving by hand, by the dampness of the atmospheres^ 
 in the shop in which it is wrought. On this account 
 a ground floor is universally used as the only kind 
 of housing adapted for fine weaving, and it is endea- 
 voured as much as possible to keep it from being 
 affected by the changes in the atmosphere without. 
 For this reason the floor is generally the bare earth. 
 
 515. Frost and drought act very injuriously on 
 the yarn, — both, in preventing it from taking on the 
 paste, and especially the latter, in rendering it very 
 brittle after being dressed. 
 
 516. Many weavers, with the view of preventing 
 these injurious effects, use paste which has been 
 weakened by age and impregnated with some salt, 
 
234 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 generally common salt. But this is a bad practice ; 
 the yarn is thereby injured by the want of strength 
 from the weakness of the paste ; and as it is kept in 
 a clammy state by the salt, it never acquires a pro- 
 per degree of firmness to render it sufficiently elastic 
 in working, so that the heddles and reed get clog- 
 ged with refuse from the yarn. Hence the yarn 
 suffers an increased strain in weaving, with a di- 
 minished strength to sustain it. 
 
 517. As the drought acts injuriously on the yarn 
 in being dressed, by depriving it of the necessary 
 moisture to fit it for uniting with the paste, the 
 remedy is simply to supply it again as it is wanted ; 
 and this is effected in hand loom dressing by merely 
 wetting the brushes slightly with water before com- 
 mencing to use them in dressing. This practice, 
 although perhaps not known, is highly beneficial; and 
 if properly done, is attended with the desired effect. 
 As the yarn in the hand loom is worked in imme- 
 diately after being dressed, this is done, when the shop 
 is good and the weaver clever, before it gets time to 
 become hard and brittle by exposure to the air. 
 
 518. But this method of working up the yarn 
 immediately on its being dressed is not practicable 
 by power, nor is it necessary ; as the yarn will keep 
 in a dressed state for any required length of time, 
 the object is the simple one of bringing it back to a 
 damp state, as it comes from the beam, in being 
 woven in the loom. This can be easily effected in 
 a variety of ways ; by steam, — or merely by a damp 
 woollen cloth, made continuous by passing it over 
 two rollers in contact with the yarn ; the one of which 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 235 
 
 may be the wheep-roll, as already used, and another 
 may be put up at the yarn beam for that purpose. 
 
 519. As heat in the air of the room is not at all 
 injurious to the yarn, provided there is a supera- 
 bundance of moisture with it, it should be such merely 
 as is sufficient to render the place comfortable to the 
 workers. 
 
 520. The yarn can thus, according to a variety 
 of modes of managing it, be kept in the required 
 condition for working better than if it were dressed 
 and woven in the hand loom. But although the 
 yarn can be managed in the loom as it ought to 
 be for fine weaving, the great consideration is as 
 to the dressing of it, — and the question is, Can the 
 dressing machines as already used, properly pre- 
 pare fine yarn for weaving ? The answer is No, 
 
 521 . But this answer can be rendered intelligible, 
 so as to lead to the improvement of the machines, 
 only by an examination of their action as it affects 
 the yarn, compared with what is required of it in 
 effecting the process according to the principles as 
 already explained in considering it as performed by 
 hand, and applied in dressing by machinery. 
 
 522. We have observed that the object of the 
 mechanical means in dressing, is to lay the surface 
 filaments of the yarn in the line of the thread, and 
 secure them in this position in an effectual manner 
 by the application of some paste, with the least 
 possible waste of the strength of the yarn : — and the 
 means will be successful only in so far as they ac- 
 complish these objects. 
 
 523. Brushes and the application of the common 
 
236 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 paste effect the object sought in the process as to 
 the laying and the securing of the filaments ; and 
 the question that requires to be considered is as to the 
 manner in which these actions are performed by the 
 machinery as affecting the yarn. 
 
 524. The action of the brushes on the yarn is 
 merely a means of traction effecting their object by 
 drawing or spreading a portion of the paste along 
 the surface of each individual thread ; and their 
 effect will therefore be proportional to the quantity 
 of motion in the direction of the threads from each 
 point or hair of the brush in contact with the yarn. 
 
 525. Now in the circular dressing machine the 
 action of the brush is not in the direction of the 
 yarn, except at that point at which it is perpendicular 
 
 ~" v 4o the warp, when its action is rectangular ; and as 
 > this action bears a small proportion to the sum of the 
 .oblique action, the required action in the direction 
 4 'of the yarn is very imperfectly produced ; and what 
 / little effect it has in the laying of the fibres, al- 
 though it is assisted in a small degree by the motion 
 of the yarn itself, is produced with a great waste 
 of the strength of the yarn. 
 
 526. At best this mode of brushing is merely an 
 approximation towards the required action. And 
 where merely something like a direction is all that 
 is intended to be given to the fibres, from the pro- 
 cess partaking more of the nature of sizing than 
 dressing, it may be used with advantage, from the 
 facility with which it can be applied. 
 
 527. Hence in the Tape sizing machine a small 
 rotatory brush is used, and, very properly, at a very 
 
ON WEAVING BY TOWER. 
 
 237 
 
 slow speed. But its effect is increased by the mo- 
 tion of the yarn in passing through it, being as four 
 to one compared with that in the crank or cylinder 
 dressing' machines. Where, however, the yarn from 
 its fineness requires all the aid which it can receive 
 from the incorporation of the surface filaments, and 
 with the least expenditure of its own strength in the 
 process, circular brushing, from its severe and in- 
 effective action, is unfitted for the work. 
 
 528. The brushes to effect what is required of 
 them must move in the direction of the yarn, and 
 their movement must be accompanied with the least 
 possible disturbance to it. But this is not the case 
 with the movement of the brushes in the crank dres- 
 sing machine. Although their motion is in. the plane 
 of the yarn, their movement is disturbed and tremu- 
 lous in a high degree ; and, from the manner in 
 which the motion is produced, it cannot be other-i> 3, ^ 
 wise. The brushes, we have seen, are placed tow^ *«\ 1 
 slide in the direction of the yarn on a spindle and X* 
 eye, and the motion is communicated to them by ^^^^^^ 
 means of straps. 
 
 529. Now all motion from straps, horizontally 
 placed especially, is attended with vibration arising 
 from their own vibratory action in working; and in 
 this case, the brush is placed in a manner very liable 
 to be affected by this action. The connection of the 
 straps to the sliding eye is not quite in the line of 
 the spindles, and there is, therefore, some disturbance 
 from this arrangement at each change in the direc- 
 tion of the stroke, which the shortness of the dis- 
 tance from eye to eye in the breadth of the slider is 
 
238 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 not fitted to prevent. And it is evident, as there 
 must be some looseness between the eye and the 
 spindles which is increased in working, the brush is 
 thus in a condition in which the communication of 
 the vibration from the belt is unavoidably transmit- 
 ted to it in the course of its stroke. 
 
 530. But the movement of the brush is liable to 
 still further injury from the manner in which the 
 crank communicates its motion. We have seen that 
 the throw of the crank is five inches, and that the 
 length of stroke of the brush is about twenty. The 
 power is therefore imparted to the brush-lever at a 
 fourth of its length from the fulcrum ; and as the 
 vibration which this arrangement of leverage is in 
 a condition to impart to the brush, is as the square 
 of its length divided by that of the distance of the 
 power from the fulcrum, the sum of disturbing influ- 
 ence with which it is charged, and which the brush 
 is in a fitting condition to receive, is as 4 to 16. 
 
 531. The movement of the brush would be con- 
 siderably improved by increasing the throw of the 
 crank ; — indeed no communication of motion in 
 similar circumstances, to effect a tolerable movement, 
 should be imparted at less than two thirds of the 
 length of the lever from the fulcrum. But the 
 means for producing the movement are altogether 
 indifferent. 
 
 532. We have observed that the traction in 
 brushing is proportional to the motion and the 
 quantity of brushing surface exposed to the yarn ; 
 and, therefore, the effect of the action of brushing 
 on the yarn is as the sum of these two quantities. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 239 
 
 Hence to bring out the greatest quantity of work 
 which the brush is fitted to dress, the velocity of its 
 motion should be proportioned to the strength or 
 grist of the yarn. 
 
 533. Now to gain the utmost advantage from the 
 motion of the brush, its stroke should be as long as 
 the yarn is well fitted to bear in working; so that it 
 may be attended with no unnecessary ruffling of the 
 threads in entering and leaving the warp. 
 
 534. Twenty inches is much too short a stroke 
 for effective action on calico or coarse yarn. Time 
 is lost in working with it by the number of turns 
 unavoidable from it in changing the direction of the 
 brush at the commencement and end of its stroke ; 
 and its effect is impaired by the amount of oblique 
 action with which it is attended. 
 
 535. In hand weaving, yarn much finer, and of 
 inferior quality, can well stand a stroke of three 
 feet in dressing ; and in dressing by power, the 
 stroke of the brush on calico yarns, to do what it is 
 fitted for effecting, should not be less. In adopting 
 a full length of stroke for the brush, the yarn, if the 
 process is properly done, is improved under it, as 
 it should be thereby rendered firmer and drier as 
 a preparation for the fan ; and, therefore, less liable 
 to be ruffled from any necessary handling in pas- 
 sing to the beam. 
 
 536. But not only is the stroke of the brush 
 much too short, but the motion of it is likewise 
 much too slow. Forty-five strokes a minute may be 
 about the average speed of the brush in the crank 
 dressing machine, although the yarn which the ma- 
 
240 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 chine dresses is well able to stand the double of this 
 speed in brushing. 
 
 537. Forty-five three feet strokes may be about 
 the velocity at which the brush should be worked on 
 yarn of this sort, to turn out what it is capable of 
 producing. 
 
 538. But the machine is not in a condition for 
 maintaining this action, either with advantage to 
 itself or to the yarn, and a lower rate of working is 
 necessary, as advantageous to both. Hence the pro- 
 duction of the machine is greatly less than by a 
 proper application of the means it is fitted for dres- 
 sing. The brush, as worked on spindles in this 
 manner by belts, is ill adapted for steadiness of ac- 
 tion, and it is as ill fitted for speed in motion. 
 
 539. Attempts have been made to improve the 
 action of the brush by the substitution of another 
 arrangement of means for working it. Fig. 46 is 
 
 Fig. 46. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 241 
 
 a representation of a mode of brushing in which 
 the horizontal or stroking motion of the brush is 
 effected by jointed levers, b b are the ends of the 
 under and upper brushes ; a is the warp line ; g re- 
 fers to the connecting rod for giving the stroking 
 motion to the brush, as applied to the levers k m, 
 from the crank I; and f, to that for raising the brush 
 out of the yarn by the rectangular lever n, counter- 
 balanced by the weight o. 
 
 540. This arrangement of means is objectionable 
 on account of the number of moving parts essential 
 to the primary motion. Simplicity is the life of me- 
 chanical action. But this arrangement of leverage, 
 when fully resolved into the simplest modification of 
 which it is susceptible for effecting the required ac- 
 tion in brushing, presents itself in the form of a car- 
 riage with four wheels fitted to run on rails. 
 
 541. The brush is placed at the ends of the car- 
 riage, and of course transversely — extending from 
 side to side of the web ; and the rails are fixed on 
 their respective sides of the machine framing in the 
 plane of the yarn opposite each other, where the 
 brushes are to act on the warp. 
 
 542. The carriage carries the brushes in the 
 direction of the yarn, by being made to run on the 
 rails, and the motion for this purpose is communi- 
 cated to it from the crank. The length of the rail 
 is, of course, equal to that of the stroke of the brush; 
 and as its form guides the brush in entering and 
 leaving the warp, the rail is made inclined at each 
 end, as seen in the longitudinal section of the ma- 
 chine for dressing fine yarn, as invented by the 
 
 Q 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 author, Plate XVII. A A is the machine framing ; 
 a a the carriage % b b the two brushes, placed 
 singly at each end of the carriage to act on their 
 respective portion of the warp ; c c is the warp-line; 
 dd the rails ; e e the crank-lever ; and f the connect- 
 ing rod between the crank-lever and the carriage. 
 
 543. Thus it is evident from this arrangement, 
 that the brush is carried with the carriage by the 
 motion of the cranky, in the plane of the yarn. But 
 as it must brush in one direction only, and its ac- 
 tion must, therefore, be alternately in and out of 
 the yarn, it is raised at the termination of the stroke 
 by the inclination at that end of the rails in the 
 direction towards the reels, so as to clear the warp 
 before commencing to make the return stroke. 
 
 544. Now the return stroke is made on move- 
 able rails put up for that purpose ; and as they bear 
 the carriage so as to clear the brush of the yarn, 
 they are set accordingly, to act in a higher plane, as 
 seen in Plate XVII. h h are the moveable rails placed 
 with their axles under the carriage wheels vertically, 
 so that when the carriage rises on the inclination at 
 the end of the fixed rails, above their level, they fall 
 in under the wheels ; and are thus in a condition to 
 bear it at the required level over the yarn. 
 
 545. The moveable rails are kept in their ver- 
 tical position, and fitted for acting in this manner, 
 by being furnished each with a short loaded rectan- 
 gular arm set on their axles so as to keep the 
 rails steadily against the side framing in the way of 
 the wheels ; or the same effect is accomplished, as 
 represented in Plate XVII, by the springs i i. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 243 
 
 546. But as the ends of the carriage must work 
 alternately on their respective fixed and moveable 
 rails — on the fixed rails in moving towards the reels, 
 and on the moveable rails on returning from them 
 — this alternate action is effected by the manner in 
 which the moveable rails are withdrawn from under 
 the end wheels of the carriage to which they respec- 
 tively belong. 
 
 547. This alternate action of the moveable rails 
 is effected by the wiper shaft which is placed near 
 each end of the machine framing, as in the crank 
 machine, so as to act alternately on its respective 
 pair of moveable rails, and, by withdrawing them 
 when the return stroke has been completed, allow 
 that end of the carriage to descend with the brush 
 into the yarn so as to act in the required direction 
 towards the reels. 
 
 548. The tire of the carriage wheels k k, accord- 
 ingly, should be broad enough to extend over both 
 rails, as seen in the plan, Plate XVIII ; and formed 
 so as to act on each — grooved for the fixed rail, and 
 flat for the moveable rail, to admit of its lateral 
 motion from the wheel ; and to guide the end of the 
 carriage in passing over by it, the side of the groove 
 in the middle of the wheel should be left as a flange 
 to keep it steadily on the line. 
 
 549. The end of the carriage on the return 
 stroke is thus kept steadily on the moveable rail, 
 and does not quit it till it has reached the fixed rail, 
 when it is again withdrawn to descend into the yarn. 
 The wheels of the carriage, to prevent it from being 
 disturbed by their looseness, should be well fitted 5 
 
244 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 and it would perhaps be better, as it is attended with 
 more stability of motion, to mount them on pivots 
 rather than centre pins. 
 
 550. The motion of the brush, by this arrange- 
 ment for working it, is steady and fluent to a degree 
 unequalled by the best hand brushing, and it is 
 therefore applicable either to coarse or fine yarn. 
 
 551. The mode of working the carriage in a 
 similar manner was in use in Lancashire before, I 
 believe, the author's attention was directed to the 
 subject. But I have not had an opportunity of see- 
 ing it, and am uncertain of the manner in which it 
 is applied. I understand, however, that the ends of 
 the carriage are raised alternately out of the yarn, 
 by the action of eccentrics, in a manner similar to 
 the brush-frame in the crank dressing machines — a 
 mode of movement unfavourable both to the sta- 
 bility of the brush, and to its action on the yarn. 
 
 552. The value of an invention depends on its 
 adaptability to the subject. But ere its fitness can 
 be appreciated, or properly brought out, the sub- 
 ject matter must be practically well understood ; and 
 hence, as the great design of this work is to present 
 the theory and practice of weaving combined in 
 such a manner as to assist the manufacturer in the 
 selection and application of his machinery, in ac- 
 cordance with the principles of the art, the mere his- 
 tory of the agency is quite a secondary consideration. 
 
 553. In no part of our subject is the right ap- 
 plication of the means of more importance than in 
 dressing. If the brushing is not effective, no man- 
 agement can render the process successful. For 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 245 
 
 this purpose, brushing should be performed with 
 the least amount of friction necessary to lay the 
 fibres, and hence, double brushing acting alternate- 
 ly on opposite sides of the warp, is necessary to turn 
 out the greatest quantity of work which the increased 
 effectiveness of the action can be made to produce ; 
 and it is besides advantageous, as it diminishes the 
 friction to which the yarn would otherwise be ex- 
 posed, from the extra action necessary to prepare 
 it when finished altogether from the one side. 
 
 554. The double brushing, in the machine 
 under consideration, is effected with two carriages 
 a a\ seen in the plan, Plate XVIII, which act alter- 
 nately on opposite sides of the warp. The lower 
 carriage for the under brushing is driven, of course, 
 from the crank formed on the opposite semi-diameter 
 of the crank shaft. 
 
 555. The strokes are of course alternate by this 
 means ; and as the brushes may be worked at a 
 sufficient velocity, without injury to the yarn or the 
 machinery, the brushing, as to the velocity, and 
 likewise as to the quality of the motion, is all that 
 the yarn requires from it in dressing. 
 
 556. The quantity of brushing as necessary to 
 the yarn, depends directly on the fineness of the 
 reed in which it is to be woven, and the number of 
 shots thrown on it in the glass, or in other words, 
 on the amount of friction which it suffers in weav- 
 ing. In common calico dressing, the yarn passes to 
 the beam at the rate of about five-eights of an inch 
 to each stroke of the brush. But in working with 
 the carriage machine, according to the stroke and 
 
246 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 velocity of the brush here recommended, the rate in 
 the delivery of the yarn will be nearly doubled in 
 corresponding qualities of work, In all cases the 
 yarn passed to the beam should be proportional to 
 the effectiveness of the brushing. 
 
 557. On the other hand, the quantity of paste, 
 as necessary to the yarn, is directly dependent on its 
 grist, and, therefore, in dressing coarse numbers at 
 a high working speed, the difficulty in getting 
 through the work will rest mainly with the means 
 for drying it. 
 
 558. But the effectiveness of the brush must 
 not be limited by the defectiveness of the apparatus 
 for drying the yarn. Whatever be the quantity 
 which the brush can be made to turn out, it must 
 be dried in reaching the beam. 
 
 559* Now as the space in the machine between 
 the dressing rollers and the beam, contains the two 
 portions of yarn undergoing the two actions of dry- 
 ing and brushing, its length, as fitting it for these 
 operations, must it is obvious be adapted both to the 
 strength of the yarn, that it suffer no unnecessary 
 strain in the process, and to the efficiency of the 
 agency to act on the yarn, so as to get the utmost 
 quantity from it which its strength can be made to 
 yield. 
 
 560. Both of these portions of stretch are there- 
 fore limited by the fineness of the yarn. There 
 must be a sufficiency of stretch for the stroke of the 
 brush which the yarn is enabled to bear, and like- 
 wise for the drying of the yarn, in passing from the 
 brush to the beam— but no more ; and that it sus- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 247 
 
 tain no unnecessary strain throughout the stretch, 
 the process should be conducted in such a manner 
 as to supply the yarn with increasing strength, for 
 the successive action in dressing, from its com- 
 mencement to its completion. 
 
 561. The action of the machine, in withdrawing 
 the yarn from the reels to the beam as it is 
 dressed, is highly favourable to this mode of con- 
 ducting the process ; and the manner in which the 
 paste is applied by the rollers is likewise very suit- 
 able to it. 
 
 562. Each stroke of the brush is thereby made 
 to act on a small additional portion of raw warp 
 brought forward by the rollers, so as to prepare it 
 for the increased action of the succeeding stroke, 
 till it reaches the middle of the stretch, when the 
 action again diminishes in the same ratio ; and with 
 the diminished supply of paste, especially when the 
 stretch is a long one, the latter part of it is thus 
 undergoing a preparation to meet the fan. 
 
 563. The process of drying must likewise be 
 conducted on the same principle of progressive ac- 
 tion. As the yarn is weak in a wet state, and 
 there is a want of congeniality between the rapidly 
 drying portion and the wet, inducing a tendency 
 to plait or twist, arising from the contraction of 
 the surface of the threads unequally by desiccation, 
 there must be no strongly marked line between the 
 wet and the dry portions of the yarn, in passing to 
 the beam. The process, therefore, should be com- 
 pleted only when it reaches it. 
 
 564. Hence in bringing the fanner to bear upon 
 
248 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the yarn, in coming from the brush, the current of 
 air from it should not be directed against a particu- 
 lar line of the warp, as was the case in some old 
 machines, and is rather a favourite practice it seems 
 in working with them in America, but diffused 
 throughout the portion of the stretch set apart for 
 drying, that there be as little unequal strain as 
 possible thrown upon the yarn, in the traction 
 which it suffers in passing to the beam. 
 
 565. That portion of the stretch, however, which 
 is under the brush, must be carefully screened from 
 the effects of the fan ; and as the object of its action 
 is to dry the yarn by the removal of the damp at- 
 mosphere from it, its velocity should not be very 
 great, as it has a tendency when over driven to 
 encircle itself with the same atmosphere, and thereby 
 weaken its own effect. 
 
 566. The fan forms a very good link in acting 
 on the yarn, between the brush and the steam-pipe. 
 Heat must finish the process of drying coarse yarn ; 
 and its effect should be increased as it approaches 
 the beam. For this purpose, the steam chests or 
 pipes should be inclined towards the yarn in that 
 direction, and if necessary the yarn should finally 
 he brought in contact with some steam-heated sur- 
 face, as it cannot then be injured by abstraction or 
 abrasion of the paste, or otherwise, as it must already 
 have been sufficiently secured in the previous part 
 of the process. 
 
 567. Dressing is thus completed on the principle 
 of progressive action throughout, so as to impart a 
 gradual increase of strength to the yarn in its pas- 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 249 
 
 sage from the reels to the beam. This practice is 
 of great importance as a means of saving the yarn 
 from unequal strain ; and in applying the machine 
 to fine yarn this principle must be well exemplified. 
 The utmost resources of the art must be drawn 
 upon to save the yarn from all unnecessary strain, 
 so as to be enabled to get the greatest quantity from 
 it which its strength can be made to yield ; and the 
 utmost strength must be imparted to it, to fit it 
 for weaving. 
 
 568. This manner of conducting the process 
 affects, therefore, to secure two great advantages of 
 essential importance to a high degree of success 
 in fine wearing — viz. to supply the yarn with an 
 increase of strength, as the draught is made upon it, 
 for the necessary strain attendant on the per- 
 formance of the process ; and to leave the yarn in 
 possession of the utmost strength which the process 
 can impart to it, to fit it in the best manner for 
 weaving. 
 
 569. All the arrangements, therefore, for carry- 
 ing on the process must be made so as to effect this 
 grand combination of purpose in dressing. The 
 yarn must neither suffer unnecessary strain from the 
 length of the stretch, nor from causes producing un- 
 equal strain throughout the stretch ; 1st, from the 
 deflection of the warp ; 2nd, from the friction of the 
 brush ; 3rd, from the drying of the yarn ; 4th, from 
 the application of the paste ; and 5th, from the 
 motion of the machinery. 
 
 570. These are saving conditions valuable in so 
 far as they are made to economise the strength of 
 
250 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 the yarn ; and next as to the means as directly im- 
 parting strength to the yarn. 1st, The paste made 
 use of must be made of the best material, and used 
 in the most fitting state as adapted for the yarn. 
 2ndly, It must be applied to it as the yarn requires 
 it, 1st, as to quantity, and 2nd, as to the mode of 
 applying it — it must be brushed so as to impart to the 
 yarn the full benefit of its strengthening influence. 
 And 3rdly, It must be dried so as to secure the 
 benefit which the yarn has received. 
 
 571. As to the proper length of stretch for fine 
 yarn, it may be observed, that, as the yarn suffers 
 more from an undue length of stretch than from its 
 being too short, it should be no longer than is 
 necessary for effective brushing and drying. The 
 object is to make the most of a stretch barely suf- 
 ficient for these purposes, so as to get the greatest 
 possible portion of it under effective action. There 
 must, therefore, be no spare space in the stretch, 
 and hence the brush in working should be brought 
 as near the dressing rollers as convenience will 
 permit it. 
 
 572. Now, as fine yarn is well able to stand a 
 stroke of 20 inches in brushing, we shall have a 
 length of stretch for this part of the process of two 
 feet, measuring from the centre of the rollers to 
 where the brushes commence to act on the yarn ; 
 and as fine yarn is easily dried, more need not be 
 allowed for this action than perhaps two feet, making 
 the whole necessary stretch which the yarn has to 
 suffer from the beam to the rollers about 4^ feet. 
 But the actual length, it must be observed, as most 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 251 
 
 beneficial for the purpose, must be finally determined 
 by practice, and varied with the fineness of the yarn, 
 
 573. This measurement, as given, confines us within 
 about the narrowest portion of space compatible with 
 effective action on yarn of this sort, with the view 
 of saving it from unnecessary strain occasioned by 
 over extension of the stretch ; and that it may be 
 saved from that arising from deflection, the warp 
 must be kept as much as possible in a straight line 
 from the rollers to the beam. 
 
 574. Now, as there must be some deflection, to 
 the extent of half the diameter of the beam, unless 
 the two portions of warp are placed on different 
 levels, as is here done, the roll is interposed to keep 
 the warp in the required direction \ but as there 
 should be as little interference as possible with the 
 yarn, especially in a wet state, it is placed where 
 it can least injure it in the contact with it. This is 
 near the beam. 
 
 575. The yarn is thus supported in the required 
 direction for the action of the brush, and as the suc- 
 cess of dressing chiefly depends on its instrumen- 
 tality, its action, as required in the process, must be 
 well understood. 
 
 576. We have observed that the brush acts by 
 traction in laying the fibres and the paste along the 
 surface of the yarn, and of course the friction of the 
 traction from it in the operation should be adapted 
 to the strength of the material. 
 
 577* Now as the friction of the brush is as its 
 velocity multiplied by the mass of bristles in action 
 on the yarn, it may be diminished by diminishing its 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 motion. But as this mode of adapting the action of 
 the brush to the yarn is attended with a proportion- 
 ally diminished production, it must be resorted to 
 as a qualifying means for this purpose, only in so 
 far as is necessary when the adaptation of the brush 
 itself has been rendered all that it ought to be, as to 
 make and material, for the required action on the 
 yarn. 
 
 578. Now the object sought for in adapting the 
 brush to the twofold purpose of laying the fibres and 
 spreading the paste, is strength of bristle sufficient 
 to resist the cohesion of the paste without abrading 
 or tearing the fibres of the yarn by its action in 
 dressing. The brush should, therefore, have strength 
 sufficient to spread the paste effectively, in a state 
 as strong as the yarn can be made to bear it \ and 
 elasticity so as to save the yarn from all unnecessary 
 severity from its action. 
 
 579. Strength and elasticity of bristle in due 
 proportion are thus the proper qualities in the brush 
 as fitted for going through the greatest quantity of 
 work with the most ease to the yarn. 
 
 580. These qualities are obtained in adapting 
 the brush for fine yarn, chiefly from the length of 
 the cut. Its breadth for effectiveness in action should 
 not be diminished \ but it would perhaps be advan- 
 tageous to increase the space between the two mid- 
 dle rows of staples from end to end of the brush, as 
 a means by which its elasticity may be still further 
 increased without weakening its effect in working ; 
 and to facilitate the entrance of the bristles into the 
 yarn, they may be slightly ground at the points ; 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 253 
 
 and when they begin to split by wear, they may be 
 recut so as to adapt the brush for coarser work. The 
 brush may thus be fitted with the required strength 
 and elasticity for any quality of yarn, so as to pre- 
 vent unnecessary strain upon it from its action. 
 
 581. Fine dressing is a delicate process, requir- 
 ing for its successful accomplishment a nice distri- 
 bution of the paste in connection with the action of 
 the brush, to prevent abrading, so as to get the 
 greatest quantity of work turned out by it, with the 
 least possible action on the yarn. 
 
 582. Abrading or the stripping of the yarn in 
 the dressing, can be effectually prevented only by 
 proportioning the quantity and the quality of the 
 paste to the action of the brush, according to the 
 fineness of the yarn. 
 
 583. The quality of the paste is a very important 
 consideration in dressing fine yarn. Too much 
 attention can hardly be paid to it. As to the flour 
 for it, care must be taken that it be of the best quality; 
 and even of this quality there is a great difference in 
 flour as fitted for making dressing. This difference 
 is chiefly dependent on the relative proportion in 
 the wheat of the three great constituent materials 
 of which it is composed as necessary to the making 
 good paste — namely, mucilage, starch, and gluten.* 
 
 * Several of the varieties of wheat, as well as other corn, 
 have been chemically analysed ; but the examination does not 
 seem to have been directed with the view of testing all the va- 
 rieties of wheat, as best fitted for making paste. But so far as 
 it has been carried, it presents us with a great difference in the 
 constitution of wheat, which quite accounts for the difference in 
 
254 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 Some flours make a stringy fiery paste which is 
 highly glutenous, but not freeable ; and as it is very 
 
 the qualities of the paste as made from it. The best American 
 wheat flour is superior to every other sort which has yet been 
 found for the purpose that we have in view, and I regret that 
 I cannot present the reader with an analysis of it. 
 
 The following tabular view of the analyses of several kinds 
 of grain is taken from Dr. Ure's Dictionary of Manufactures, 
 article Bread, Page 173, 3rd edition : — 
 
 Species of Wheat. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Gluten. 
 
 Starch. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 Gum. 
 
 Bran. 
 
 Total. 
 
 Water of 
 dough. 
 
 French wheat flour 
 
 10-0 
 
 10-96 
 
 71-49 
 
 4-72 
 
 3-32 
 
 
 10049 
 
 50-3 
 
 Hard wheat of Odes- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sa flour - - - 
 
 12-0 
 
 14-55 
 
 56-50 
 
 848 
 
 4-90 
 
 2-3 
 
 98-73 
 
 51-2 
 
 Soft wheat of Odessa 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 flour - - - - 
 
 10-0 
 
 12-00 
 
 62-00 
 
 7-56 
 
 5-80 
 
 1-2 
 
 98-42 
 
 54-8 
 
 Same sort of flour - 
 
 8.0 
 
 12-10 
 
 70-84 
 
 4-90 
 
 4-60 
 
 
 100-41 
 
 37-4 
 
 Same sort of flour - 
 
 12-0 
 
 7-30 
 
 72-00 
 
 5-42 
 
 3-30 
 
 
 100-02 
 
 37-2 
 
 Wheat of the French 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 bakers - - - - 
 
 10-0 
 
 10-20 
 
 72-80 
 
 4-20 
 
 2-80 
 
 
 100-00 
 
 40-6 
 
 Flour of the Paris 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 hospitals (2d quality) 
 
 8-0 
 
 10-30 
 
 71-20 
 
 4-80 
 
 3-60 
 
 
 97-90 
 
 37-8 
 
 Ditto (3d quality) - 
 
 12-0 
 
 9-02 
 
 67-78 
 
 4-80 
 
 4-60 
 
 2-0 
 
 100-21 
 
 37-8 
 
 The following table of analyses merits also a place here : — 
 
 Species of flour. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Gluten. 
 
 Starch. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 Gummi- 
 gluten. 
 
 Albu- 
 men. 
 
 Bran. 
 
 Flour of the triticum spelta 
 
 1 
 
 22- 
 
 74. 
 
 5-50 
 
 1- 
 
 1-50 
 
 
 Ditto triticum hybernum 
 
 1 
 
 24- 
 
 68- 
 
 5-0 
 
 1- 
 
 1-50 
 
 
 Ditto common wheat 
 
 
 12-5 
 
 74-5 
 
 12- 
 
 2- 
 
 
 
 Ditto wheat and rye mixed 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (mastlin) - - - - 
 
 6 
 
 9-80 
 
 75-50 
 
 4-22 
 
 3-28 
 
 
 1-2 
 
 The first two of the above analyses were made by Vogel, the 
 third by Proust, and the fourth by Vauquelin. 
 Analyses of the flour of some other corns : — 
 
 Species of flour. 
 
 Starch. 
 
 Muci- 
 lage. 
 
 Gluten. 
 
 Albu- 
 men. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 Husk. 
 
 Hor- 
 dein. 
 
 White oatmeal - 
 Barley meal - - - 
 
 59 00 
 32-00 
 
 2-5 
 9- 
 
 3- 
 
 4-30 
 
 8-25 
 
 Of resin, 
 2 
 
 Of a fat oil. 
 2 
 
 55 
 
 The first analysis is by Vogel, the second by Proust, 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER, 
 
 255 
 
 difficult to spread, and generally wants body 
 from a deficiency of starch, the yarn is injured by 
 the action of brushing it, and comes from the pro- 
 cess in a raw, bare, husky, and brittle state, very ill 
 fitted for weaving. 
 
 584. Other flours, on the contrary, yield a paste 
 the reverse of this as to quality, which is distin- 
 guished by body with deficient strength. The 
 object sought for, in paste for fine yarn especially, 
 is body and strength combined with the utmost 
 mildness in its action on the yarn. 
 
 585. But the mode of making the paste very 
 much affects its quality. The soaking of the flour 
 well in water before making it into dressing, brings 
 out its mucilage, and improves the glutenous quality 
 of the paste by a thorough incorporation with the 
 starch in the boiling. It tends, moreover, to tem- 
 per its action on the yarn. 
 
 586. Fine yarn, when dressed, should be as 
 pliant as possible — strong and well skinned, or 
 clothed with the paste. A glutenous good body of 
 paste is necessary for the clothing of the yarn in a 
 proper manner to fit it for weaving, especially in a 
 fine reed ; and freeability, to effect the covering of 
 the thread with the least waste of its strength in 
 the process. 
 
 587. The qualities of the paste, therefore, as 
 especially necessary for dressing fine yarn, are body, 
 strength^ and freeability. The last of these qua- 
 lities is of great importance for work of this sort, 
 and is very much affected by the manner in which 
 the paste is prepared for use, after it is made. The 
 
256 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 object sought, in the preparation of it for immediate 
 use, is to break up the cohesion of the mass so as to 
 facilitate the adhesion of the particles of the paste 
 to the threads. In this respect the action of the 
 dressing rollers in the machine is highly advan- 
 tageous, as a means of preparing it both for the 
 yarn and the brush. By their rotation, the yarn 
 passes through a bed of paste in which the particles 
 are so far individualized and comminuted, and thus 
 put in the proper state for adhering to the threads. 
 
 588. The rollers are thus a good means both for 
 preparing the paste and applying it to the yarn. 
 But although a uniformity in the application of the 
 paste is effected by them, a redistribution, to a cer- 
 tain extent, again takes place by the action of the 
 brush; because towards the termination of its stroke 
 
 , it receives that portion of paste which has been 
 I brought forward by the advance of the yarn during 
 the previous stroke, and applies it at the commence- 
 ment of the succeeding one, where it is least wanted. 
 
 589. Now towards the middle of the stroke or 
 stretch, according to this application of the brush, 
 the yarn is receiving the least paste where it is 
 sustaining the most action. This means, therefore, 
 does not apportion the supply of paste throughout 
 the stretch according to the action of the brush on 
 the yarn ; and in dressing fine yarn, abrading to 
 an extent proportional to the irregularity in its 
 distribution by this means is inevitable. 
 
 590. This defect must be remedied in the mode 
 of conducting the process for dressing fine yarn, so 
 as to prevent it from suffering any unnecessary 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 257 
 
 waste of strength from this mode of treating it ; and 
 the manner in which I have effected it, as seen in the 
 longitudinal section of the machine, Plate XVII, 
 is by making the strokes of the two brushes of un- 
 equal length — that of the under brush being about 
 three-fourths of the upper one; and so placed in the 
 machine that, from the greater length of its carriage, 
 it may extend its stroke a little beyond the upper 
 one towards the rollers, so as always to receive the 
 loose paste, as the yarn brings it forward ; and by 
 applying it at the commencement of its own stroke, 
 which will be about one-third from that of the other, 
 the supply of the paste is thus apportioned to the 
 action of the brushes throughout the stretch. 
 
 591. By this mode of working them, the yarn, 
 as it recedes from the under brush, is receiving the 
 action of the upper one, chiefly as a means of pre- 
 paring it for the fan, whilst a quantity of paste suf- 
 ficient to lubricate the friction of the brushes, so 
 as to prevent abrading, and thereby render their 
 action, as to effectiveness in laying the fibres, such 
 as it ought to be, is thus obtained without the inter- 
 vention of a separate means for effecting it. 
 
 592. By the yarn being thus strengthened 
 under the brushes, and prepared for the fan, it is 
 better fitted for passing through the copper plate 
 with less injury to itself ; and as it has little ten- 
 dency to plaiting from this mode of treating it, 
 the threads should be kept by it very little apart 
 in drying, that the yarn be not strained by un- 
 necessary deflection. 
 
 593. But it would perhaps be better to dispense 
 
 1 
 
 it 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 with the copper plate altogether, and substitute a 
 needle frame consisting of at least two rows of cop- 
 per needles, through which the threads should be 
 alternately drawn as in the heddles; and by render- 
 ing the rows or leaves separately moveable, chiefly 
 perpendicularly, the space between them could be 
 increased or diminished according to the discretion 
 of the dresser in working ; and thus, by this means, 
 any necessary raising of either of the leaves, to enter 
 broken yarn or otherwise, would be attended with 
 no ruffling, to that portion of the warp at least which 
 is not attached to it. 
 
 594. Every precaution should be taken that the 
 yarn suffer as little handling and friction in passing 
 to the beam as possible ; and to ensure the smooth- 
 ness of the needle eyes, they should be previously 
 used in a similar manner for coarse yarn. 
 
 595. The preservation of the yarn in the line of 
 its own motion throughout, and especially from de- 
 flection at the copper plate, is a highly important 
 object ; and if properly effected, is a means of saving 
 it from much unnecessary strain. Hence (for a 
 similar reason) all the moving parts affected by the 
 yarn should be made highly susceptible of motion. 
 The friction plates of the beam for regulating the 
 tension of the warp ought to be nicely fitted, as to 
 their interposed surfaces; and the wooden rollers for 
 measuring and leading the yarn to the beam would 
 perhaps be as well to be mounted on centre screws. 
 
 596. The strain on the yarn in dressing is so 
 much diminished by the dressing rollers being made 
 to deliver it to the beam, that no dressing machine 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 259 
 
 for any quality of yarn should be made without 
 this highly important motion. Any attempt, indeed, 
 to dress on the old drag system, is merely working 
 on the absolute strength of the yarn in defiance of 
 art, — and although such a practice is out of use in 
 this country, or nearly so, it seems to be highly popu- 
 lar and extensively used in America. Mr Mont- 
 gomery, in his * 'Cotton Manufacture of Great Britain 
 and America Contrasted," speaks of it with approba- 
 tion, as preferable to those of this country. But this 
 manner of stating the subject originates from a mis- 
 conception of the object as sought to be effected by 
 dressing. 
 
 597* The warp in these machines is divided into 
 a number of parts (four in the machines as used at 
 Lowell,) each being taken through a separate pair of 
 rollers, and drawn forward from between them by 
 the traction of the beam. The several portions of 
 yarn in passing to the beam are dried by the fan and 
 steam conjointly. The fan for this purpose is en- 
 closed, except at the ends, and the upper side where 
 its blast is directed against the particular part of the 
 warp to be dried, as was the case here in some of the 
 early practice with the dressing machine ; and, to 
 secure its being effectually dried, to get the quantity 
 out of it, it is passed over a steam-heated cylinder. 
 
 598. The cylinder used in this manner is patented 
 there by an American gentleman, Mr Batchelder, 
 agent of the Saco Cotton Works, and is a good 
 means, especially for coarse yarn ; but the consi- 
 deration of the other parts of the machine, as 
 favourably affecting the production, is going back- 
 
260 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 wards in the consideration of progressive im- 
 provement. 
 
 599. The yarn which these machines are ap- 
 plied to dress is coarse — from 10 s to 20 s , for heavy 
 domestics ; and as it requires little laying of the 
 fibres — chiefly hardening, and is strong, the object 
 is to make its strength subservient, in the utmost de- 
 gree, to the bringing out of the greatest possible 
 quantity of work with that preparation only which 
 is sufficient to fit it for weaving. The tape sizing 
 machine is, therefore, the proper means for pre- 
 paring it for the loom ; and thus, by throwing it aside 
 altogether, a good method of starching may be ob- 
 tained in exchange for a bad mode of dressing. 
 
 600. But, in dressing fine yarn, there is another 
 part of the process so necessary to success in fine 
 weaving — especially with a fine reed, that it must be 
 done in a careful manner, — and that is picking the 
 yarn before being dressed. This must be done by 
 hand ; and for that purpose the reels should be 
 placed at a convenient distance from the dressing 
 rollers, so as to expose a suitable portion of the warp 
 to the eye, that the lumps and especially the snarls 
 may be detected before they reach the dressing rollers. 
 
 601. It might perhaps be beneficial to make the 
 reed which is used for guiding the yarn into the rol- 
 lers act as a detector, by making it much finer than 
 the reed intended for weaving it, so as to break the 
 threads by the lumps ; and, as a means of preventing 
 the yarn in breaking from springing in against the 
 dressing rollers, a small round rod may be laid on the 
 warp between them and the reed for that purpose. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 261 
 
 602. Thus the dressing machinery which we 
 have been considering, as applied to fine yarn, is 
 merely a better and a nicer adaptation of the same 
 or a similar means than what may be necessary to 
 coarse yarn ; but its application must be guided by 
 a full knowledge of the subject, so as to adapt the 
 means in accordance with the art, to the relative 
 strain which the yarn is capable of bearing. 
 
 603. In this manner, by adapting the machine 
 and the material to the work, any quality of yarn, 
 however fine, may be dressed, and in a superior 
 manner to what can be effected by hand. Hence 
 dressing machines differing from each other in the 
 principle of their construction are not necessary for 
 dressing any quality of yarn, but differing merely 
 in the adaptation of their means. 
 
 604. The Carriage machine is well fitted for 
 dressing any kind of yarn, fine or coarse. But 
 as the numbers descend to perhaps below 20 s — 
 where hardening is the chief object sought as fit- 
 ting the yarn for weaving, the end will be cheaper 
 effected by using a starching means for that pur- 
 pose — the tape sizing machine. In this machine, 
 as the yarn passes through boiling paste, the 
 essentia] oil in the cotton, as well as that which it 
 imbibes in the spinning, is dissipated by the heat, 
 and the paste sinks into the heart of the thread, 
 saturating it to the utmost ; but as the strain which 
 the yarn suffers in passing through it, is great, 
 the coarser the yarn is it is obviously the more 
 peculiarly adapted for this machine. 
 
 605. The dressing machinery is thus adapted to 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 all qualities of yarn, cotton and linen, as a means 
 of preparing it for the loom, and in a manner so as 
 to effect what the manufacture requires of it. It 
 is, therefore, fitted as it ought to be for working in 
 conjunction with the power loom ; so that muslins, 
 checks, pullicates, ginghams, calicoes, heavy domes- 
 tics, and goods that require little or no dressing, 
 such as canvass, sail-cloth, and silk and woollen 
 makes, which are not affected by it, are brought 
 within the range of the power loom, in the view in 
 which we have been considering it, so that all 
 fabrics coming under the denomination of plain 
 weaving are thus within its reach. 
 
 606. The object sought, in the adaptation of all 
 the means throughout, is to get the greatest quan- 
 tity and best quality of work turned out at the least 
 cost. The dressing, in work in which that process 
 is of primary importance, must be well done, to 
 obtain either quantity or quality of cloth. In mus- 
 lin weaving the work can neither be clear, nor gone 
 through with in a workmanlike manner otherwise. 
 The selvage, if the yarn is not well dressed, is cer- 
 tain to be bad — purled from the roughness of the 
 warp preventing the weft shot from catching it — 
 whatever other faults the work may have ; and this 
 in a description of goods which is chiefly tested by 
 the appearance of the cloth there, renders it in a 
 great measure unsaleable. 
 
 607. The web, besides, from the yarn being too 
 lightly dressed, has a rough, woolly, and loose ap- 
 pearance — wanting the clear, tight, glossy, and well 
 skinned or silky look of a well dressed and well 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 263 
 
 woven piece. The weft, from this condition of the 
 yarn, is not sufficiently straightened in weaving. 
 But purling may nevertheless take place in a small 
 degree, however well the yarn may be dressed, from 
 weaving with the weft too dry ; aiad softness in the 
 appearance of the cloth, from the pirns being too 
 loosely wound. In muslin weaving, the weft should 
 always be used in so damp a state as to tighten the 
 selvage by the increased friction which it thereby 
 acquires in coming off the pirn, and through the 
 shuttle-eye ; and to give a firmness to the weft 
 throughout, it should be wound on the pirn with as 
 much tension as the yarn can well bear. 
 
 608. We have observed, in treating of hand 
 weaving, that the uniformity in the tension of the 
 weft shot is affected by the size of the pirn, and the 
 form in which the weft is wound on it, and that, as 
 the manner in which this process is performed may 
 affect the safety of the weft shot, and, in a small de- 
 gree, the evenness of the work, the winding of the 
 pirns as they ought to be is an important auxiliary 
 process to weaving. 
 
 609. They may be wound in a proper manner 
 by hand certainly, but this means of production is 
 uncertain, and so liable to great inequality in the 
 mode in which the work is done, that it is quite un- 
 suitable to weaving by the power loom. Machinery 
 is the only means for effecting the process in a 
 manner so as to accomplish all that the power loom 
 requires of it; and in this respect the cope winding 
 machine in common use is a good means for the 
 purpose. It is capable of making a hard and well 
 
264 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 built pirn, and is applicable to any quality of yarn. 
 
 610. In yarn, however, where the fibres are 
 smooth — such as silk and linen, and in very coarse 
 yarn, as in sail-cloth weaving, the shot must be 
 prevented from purling by the intervention of 
 some means to hinder it from flowing too freely 
 from the pirn, as already noticed in weaving 
 by hand. But the means for doing so must be 
 more effective for power loom weaving than is 
 merely sufficient for the purpose in weaving by 
 hand. A few tufts of hair fixed in the shuttle in 
 the direction of the thread, as in weaving by hand, 
 effects the object in the common qualities of yarn of 
 this sort ; but where the weft is both very coarse 
 and very rigid, as in sail-cloth work, this means is 
 not sufficiently effective for the purpose. Nor is 
 the method in common use, of preventing it by the 
 roller placed in the line of the shuttle-eye, unob- 
 jectionable, as it acts in an irregular and jerking 
 manner. But if the traction were made contin- 
 uous, and according to the strength of the yarn, it 
 would be as the shot requires it ; and such a kind of 
 action is precisely that which results from the draw- 
 ing of the thread through between the staples of two 
 brushes clasped together. In this case a few strong 
 staples fixed in the sole of the shuttle between the eye 
 and the pirn, in the line of the thread, with a few sta- 
 ples above them attached to a spring-presser, jointed 
 like that of the pirn skewer, to keep the bristles in 
 contact and the thread between them, would give 
 quite the kind of traction for strong yarn of any 
 sort, to prevent it from purling. The upper 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 265 
 
 bristles may, indeed, be unnecessary, as sufficient 
 friction may be obtained by adapting the under 
 ones for the purpose, and using the presser merely 
 as a means of keeping the thread in contact with 
 them in passing to the eye, as seen in Fig. 2d, Plate 
 XVI. a is the presser, formed where it meets the 
 thread into an oval ring through which the weft 
 passes to keep it in the right direction ; b is the under 
 staples ; and of course the friction of the weft is 
 regulated, by the strength and numberof the bristles, 
 as required to prevent purling. 
 
 611. The kind of housing as best fitted for a 
 weaving factory is a matter of importance. It 
 should be such as is best adapted for preserving a 
 uniformity in the temperature of the air within, 
 that the yarn may have the best chance of being 
 thereby kept in a mild state for weaving, and ad- 
 mitting of an arrangement in the machinery the 
 most convenient for the workers with the least ex- 
 pense or cost in the building. 
 
 612. In all these respects a ground floor, as 
 in weaving by hand, is the proper one for the pur- 
 pose. It is accessible — well fitted for obtaining the 
 stability of motion in working with such machinery — 
 and above all, it is the only one adapted for pre- 
 serving in the best manner that equality in the 
 humidity of the atmosphere so beneficial to the 
 yarn in working. 
 
 613. In cases, therefore, where the situation 
 admits of the necessary ground for building the fac- 
 tory, so as to receive all the looms on the ground 
 
266 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 floor, no upper apartment should be taken for cot- 
 ton or linen weaving. But where this arrange- 
 ment cannot be fully carried out, the heaviest and 
 the lightest work, if there are extremes in the fine- 
 ness of the cloth made in the same factory — such 
 as muslins and very heavy domestics — should be 
 wrought on the ground floor. The former, because 
 of the saving of labour with which it may be attended 
 in to the workers, and likewise for the advantage 
 an engineering point of view, in having the 
 heaviest machinery and greatest mechanical action 
 nearest the base of the house ; and the latter, because 
 although the machinery may be the lightest, yet the 
 advantage to the yarn, by its being better preserved 
 in such a situation from the changes in the atmos- 
 phere without, outweighs every thing else, and 
 renders it, in the weaving of fine yarn, a matter 
 of necessity rather than choice. 
 
 614. In large establishments, where spinning 
 and weaving are carried on conjointly in the same 
 premises, it is in general advantageous to have the 
 weaving department in a separate building. This 
 arrangement enables the manufacturer to have such 
 a size of room as is most suitable to the looms for 
 any kind of work which he may possibly want, and 
 which he cannot have, with equal advantage to both 
 kinds of machinery, by placing them in the same 
 building. 
 
 615. The house must be such as admits of the 
 best arrangement of the looms with the least ex- 
 pense of gearing as necessary to drive them. With 
 this view the looms are placed, end to end, in parallel 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 267 
 
 rows extending across the breadth of the house, as 
 seen in the plan of the Factory, Plate I, and in 
 Plate XX, so that one drum-shaft drives two rows. 
 The looms are, therefore, made right and left handed, 
 that they may be placed back to back in the required 
 position for being driven by the same shaft. 
 
 616. A drum-shaft is thus placed between each 
 two rows of looms in the breadth of the house; and, 
 as the shaft must be supported where it communi- 
 cates with the looms, two rows are likewise placed 
 together in the length of the house, as closely as the 
 lathes will permit them, that four looms may be 
 driven from the same drum — or what is better, from 
 two drums, one placed on each side of the gallows, 
 as seen in the plan, that the danger to which the 
 straps are liable from the accidental breakage of any 
 of them in the working, where so many are driven 
 together, may be so far avoided. 
 
 617. As four looms are thus connected with the 
 same part of the shafting, the width of the 
 house, therefore, should be adapted for so many 
 double rows of looms. Less than two such rows, 
 or four looms, should not be thought of — from the 
 increased expense attending the gearing for such 
 an arrangement. But where the number of looms is 
 considerable, the breadth of the house should be made 
 to admit of eight or twelve looms or more, according 
 to circumstances. Twelve is the arrangement as 
 presented in the plan of the Factory, Plate I ; and 
 eight in the supplementary Plates, XIX and XX. 
 
 618. Several fine weaving establishments are 
 arranged according to both of these plans. But 
 
208 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 whatever plan is adopted, room enough must be 
 given in the passages to the workers to go about 
 their work. Less than two feet on each side of the 
 double row of looms cannot be allowed, and sup- 
 posing the middle passage for an arrangement of 
 eight looms to be four feet, there will thus be twelve 
 feet for passages, and, with seven feet for each loom 
 — the usual width for yard wide work — the breadth 
 of the house will be sixty-eight feet within the walls. 
 
 619. The length of the room again for a cer- 
 tain number of looms, will dependon their length and 
 the space allowed for passages in front and behind 
 them. The front passage should be wider than the 
 back one, as it is there that the weavers chiefly re- 
 quire to be in attending to their work. Twenty or 
 twenty-two inches may be allowed for the front pas- 
 sage, and about sixteen or eighteen for the back one - p 
 and if the length of the loom be four feet, such as 
 represented in Plates V, VI, VII, and VIII, the 
 space between the two drum-shafts will be eleven 
 feet two inches. The room is made up of a repeti- 
 tion of this arrangement of looms, and the length 
 necessary for the required number will be deter- 
 mined by the number of feet between each drum- 
 shaft, with an allowance for the two end passages, 
 and the number of repetitions necessary to include 
 the whole. 
 
 620. The height of the rooms, as affecting the 
 work, is of advantage chiefly as it affords a suffi- 
 ciency of space between the drum-shafts and the 
 looms. When the distance between them is too 
 little, the strap is not readily transferred from 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 269 
 
 the one pulley to the other, and, therefore, the pro- 
 tector is not apt to be well answered. The height 
 of the shafting from the floor, in the room as pre- 
 sented in the Plates, I, XIX, and XX, is fourteen 
 feet, and is taken from a factory in which the gear- 
 ing is well arranged. The room is a ground floor, 
 as being the best adapted for the yarn and the most 
 suitable for the machinery. 
 
 621. As the reaction from looms in working is 
 irregular, the mill shafting for them must be heavy — 
 much more so than is necessary for the work as 
 calculated by the power required to work it. The 
 common practice is faulty in this respect — the 
 loom shafting, as commonly used, is made too light. 
 Such a practice not only injures the machinery by 
 the vibration with which it is attended, but it like- 
 wise injures the work, as it has a tendency to pro- 
 duce jesping, especially where there is some angular 
 strain on the crank shaft as attached to the lathe* 
 
 622. Too much care can hardly be bestowed on 
 the generally finishing of the machinery and the 
 mill gearing, as to the bearings of the shafts and 
 their bushes. The crank and wiper shafts of the 
 the loom should not only be parallel to each other, 
 but especial care should be taken that they be 
 embedded in the plane of their bushes, so as 
 to be as free as possible from angular strain. 
 The bushes should, therefore, be opened up, after 
 they are bolted in their places to their respec- 
 tive sides of the loom, with a widener run 
 through them and extending from side to side, 
 so as to fit them accurately for their respective 
 shafts j and the drum-shafts likewise, for the same 
 
270 
 
 PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 reason, should be accurately placed on their respec- 
 tive bushes — parallel to the loom shafts; and turned 
 throughout, so as to guard against any possible vi- 
 bration from untruthfulness, either of the shafts or 
 wheels, as to their centre of motion being out of 
 their centre of gravity. 
 
 623. The admirable tools which are now brought 
 to bear on machine-making render the making and 
 finishing of machinery a very different sort of thing 
 from what it was a number of years ago. The 
 self-acting turning lathe — the planing machine — 
 the boring machine — the slotting machine — and the 
 wheel tooth-cutting machine, have become necessary 
 to the machine-maker ; and, therefore, the require- 
 ments of the trade are raised by the quality of the 
 tools which they have to deal with. High finishing 
 has thus become more or less necessary to all sorts 
 of machinery. 
 
 624. But the tools are not only fitted to finish 
 well at a small cost, but to finish accurately in 
 either the large or the small departments of the 
 trade. The loom, however, was long in being 
 much effected by them. It was thought to be a 
 sort of machine for which any kind of fitting was 
 good enough — and it is only lately, comparatively, 
 that a different opinion is taking hold of the trade. 
 Weight in the parts of the loom and good fitting, 
 we have seen, from the kind of motions of which 
 weaving consists, are especially necessary to the 
 effective action of the loom in weaving by power ; 
 and as turned shafting can be produced at so small 
 a cost compared to the value of the work, that the 
 additional price required for it is not a consideration 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 271 
 
 worth the attending to, the loom should have the 
 advantage of it. 
 
 625. The diameter of drum shafting as proper 
 for looms depends on several circumstances, hut 
 chiefly on the width of the house (according to the 
 arrangement that we have been considering) or the 
 length of the shaft — the make of the looms — the 
 weight of the work or web — and the velocity at which 
 the looms are driven. The tendency of the shafting to 
 twist by the action of the power and the reaction of 
 the machinery, will be of course directly as its length 
 and inversely as its diameter. And hence the rule 
 for shafting, as acted on by engineers, is — multiply 
 the power in lbs. by the length of the shaft in feet, 
 and the leverage in feet, divide the product by fifty- 
 five times the number of degrees in the angle of 
 torsion, and the fourth root of the quotient is the 
 shaft's diameter in inches. 
 
 626. The drum shafts, for the plan of the factory 
 as presented in Plate I, strike off from the lying shafts 
 with a diameter of two and a half inches, which di- 
 mimishes proportionally at every range till at the 
 last it is one and three-fourths. The looms which 
 they drive are light calico ones — speed 120 or '30, 
 and this shafting, it must be admitted, is sufficient 
 for them. The lying shafts are six inches in dia- 
 meter. But it should never be overlooked by engi- 
 neers, that the shafting, for looms especially, should 
 in every case be rather too heavy than too light. 
 
 627. The cost of a weaving shed such as that 
 presented in Plate I, may be estimated at about 22s. 
 the square yard, including ground, and the gearing 
 at £2 10s. per loom. 
 
PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 The looms for light calico may be £9 each, or 
 including what is necessary to complete them for 
 work, perhaps £10. If they are made for heavy 
 work, such as that presented in Plates V, VI, VII, 
 VIII, the price will be about £12 each. 
 
 The complement of dressing machines as ne- 
 cessary to the looms will vary with the work, 
 according to its thickness and the fineness of the 
 reeds, or as the yarn may require more or less dres- 
 sing to fit it for weaving. For common calicoes, in 
 the usual way of working, a machine may dress for 
 twenty or twenty-five looms. The price of the crank 
 dressing machine is £45, and of the cylinder a pound 
 or two less. 
 
 The power required to drive the looms is as their 
 speed, make, and the weight of the work to which 
 they are applied. One horse power is sufficient 
 to drive ten common calico looms at a good speed — 
 120 or '30 — with preparation, that is, dressing, 
 warping, and reeling. The cost of steam power from 
 acondensing enginewillbe about£2 10s for eachloom. 
 
 A reeling machine should be sufficient for fifty 
 looms, and a warping machine for an equal num- 
 ber. The reeling machine will cost about £7* 
 and the warping machine £17. 
 
 The cost of the factory as presented in the plan, 
 Plate I, may therefore be estimated as follows : — 
 
 Housing and Ground, about 3600 square yards, £3960 
 
 384 Looms, 3840 
 
 Condensing Steam-Engine, 38 horse power @ £25, 950 
 
 Shafting, 950 
 
 Dressing Machines, 16 @ £45 each, .... 720 
 AVarping and Reeling Machines, 10, . . . . 240 
 
 £10,660, 
 
 Exclusive of Gas Fittings, Steam Pipes, Leather, Furniture, &c. 
 
ON WEAVING BY POWER. 
 
 273 
 
 628. A thorough knowledge of weaving is in- 
 valuable to the manufacturer by power looms. It 
 forms the stock in trade on which his success in the 
 making cf cloth directly depends; and on that account 
 the principles and practice cf the art have been de- 
 duced in the previous part of the work with a care in 
 some measure proportionate to their importance. 
 
 629. But there are other matters connected with 
 a weaving establishment, either by hand or power 
 looms, which are not, strictly speaking, included in 
 the art of weaving, although essential to the general 
 success of the business. Such as — 
 
 First, — The selection of the yarn and the setting 
 of it to the reeds so as to produce the required 
 fabric cf cloth. 
 
 Second, — Calculations connected with the work. 
 
 Third. — The warping or preparation of the 
 webs, and the adaptation of the work to the looms 
 so as to keep them a-going with the hands at the 
 fabrics fcr which they are best fitted. 
 
 Fourth^ — The management of the hands so as to 
 employ the skill which they possess to the most 
 advantage. 
 
 630. A large manufacturing establishment should 
 present in the whole combination of its operations, 
 an epitome of the principles of political economy. 
 Its professed object is to turn out the greatest pro- 
 duce at the least cost. Its agency and means are, 
 therefore, to be the best and the cheapest. But in 
 many cases the exemplification of the principle is 
 restricted to the cheapest as to money price that 
 can possibly be worked with. The labour is sup- 
 
 s 
 
TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 posed to be cheap if it be purchased, in any circum- 
 stances, at the lowest rate ; and from the same mis- 
 taken policy, the machinery is good enough if it 
 can be got for little money. In many cases, ac- 
 cordingly, the looms are hardly worth house room. 
 Nor does it seem to be sufficiently considered that 
 under-paid labour inevitably weakens the recoil of 
 individual energy, and that in every case a narrow 
 niggardly economy defeats its own object. Articles 
 insufficient for the purpose are dear at any price — 
 no management can render their employment pro- 
 fitable. 
 
 631. In the selecting of the yarn for manufactur- 
 ing purposes, a greater error can hardly be made 
 than the preference of indifferent to good yarn for 
 the difference in the price. Such a practice is in- 
 evitably attended with faultiness in the workmanship, 
 and increased waste of stuff in the working of it up. 
 
 632. The yarn, to be used with the best economy, 
 should be adapted to the work required of it in the 
 weaving. Fine yarn for overwefted work in fine 
 reeds, should be of the best quality that can be made, 
 and so should very fine yarn for any reed. 
 
 633. But there is a great difference in the 
 quality of the best yarn as produced, even by the 
 best spinners, at different times, dependent chiefly 
 on the selection of the raw material. In spinning, 
 the selection and preparation of the wool are almost 
 every thing. Those, therefore, who have large 
 establishments, and make extensive purchases of 
 the raw material, from which they can select the 
 best that can posssiMy be had on all occasions for 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 275 
 
 fine spinning, by disposing of the inferior sort for 
 coarser purposes — such as Mr Thomas Houlds- 
 worth of Manchester — possess advantages in the 
 making of the article with which it is hard to com- 
 pete. The yarn, accordingly, which Mr Houlds worth 
 produces is perhaps unequalled, and it has long main- 
 tained this very high character. It is remarkable 
 for the uniform goodness of its quality. 
 
 634. The yarn is made up for the cloth manu- 
 facturer in measured quantities, and numbered as an 
 index to its fineness according to the weight of a 
 given length of its thread. The measure for cot- 
 ton in universal use is a reel whose circumference 
 is one and a half yards = fifty-four inches. That 
 for linen, as fixed by act of parliament, is two and a 
 half yards, == ninety inches. For woollen, the reel 
 is usually two yards, == seventy-two inches. For 
 silk, the cotton reel is generally adopted ; and for 
 yarn of a mixed make, sometimes one measure, and 
 sometimes another seems to be used in the making 
 of it up. 
 
 635. The portions reeled are known by different 
 names as containing a certain number of yards; those 
 for cotton are as follow : — 
 
 One circumference of the reel = 1^ yds. = one thread. 
 80 Threads = 1 Skein =3 120 Yds. 
 7 Skeins = 1 Hank = 840 — 
 18 Hanks = 1 Spjndle = 15,120 — 
 
 The spyndle is the highest denomination of yarn, 
 and is made up of separate skeins tied together in a 
 cluster to form the hank. Twenty of these are put 
 
276 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 together to make a head of yarn in bundling it for 
 the market. The fineness of the yarn, however, in 
 cotton, is always indicated by the number of hanks in 
 the pound weight avoirdupois. 
 
 636. For linen, again, the circumference of the 
 reel is 2| Yds. = 1 Thread:— 
 
 120 Threads = 1 Cut == 300 Yds. 
 
 2 Cuts = 1 Heer = 600 — 
 
 3 Heers = 1 Slip = 1,800 — 
 2 Slips = 1 Hank = 3,600 — 
 2 Hanks = 1 Hesp = 7,200 — 
 2 Hesps = 1 Spyndle = 14,400 — 
 
 Fine linen yarn is counted by the leas or cuts 
 in the pound ; and the coarse, such as is used for 
 sail-cloth and canvas fabrics, by the spyndles in the 
 pound, or the pounds in a spyndle. 
 
 637. The woollen spyndle is divided into 24 
 heers of 600 yards each ; and the yarn is sized and 
 counted, as in coarse linen, by the weight of the 
 spyndle. 
 
 638. The reeds in which the different fabrics of 
 cloth are woven, differ as to the scale to which they 
 are made in different places, and even in the same 
 place for different and similar kinds of work. 
 
 639. The Scotch, that is to say the Glasgow 
 manufacturers, make their muslins and all their 
 cotton goods in reeds made to the scale of thirty- 
 seven inches = their yard; and the reeds, as well as 
 the webs woven in them, are counted by the hundred 
 splits in that measure. Thus, what is called a six- 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 277 
 
 teen hundred (written l6 00 ,) is the number of splits 
 in thirty-seven inches. The difference between one 
 hundred and another is called a set. The reeds are, 
 however, frequently made to half sets ; that is to 
 say, so many hundreds and fifty more in the same 
 space. In the last case it v/ould be called a 16 00 and 
 a half. 
 
 640. In the Scotch linen manufacture, the scale 
 generally used, especially for coarse makes, is thirty- 
 six inches. Thus a sail-cloth may be wrought in a 
 3 00 reed, which, of course, refers in every case to the 
 number of splits in the scale, without any reference 
 to the number of splits in the breadth of the web. 
 
 641. The muslins of Manchester are wrought in 
 reeds made to the same scale, thirty-six inches, but 
 counted by the number of threads in an inch. Thus 
 an 130 Manchester Jaconet means 130 threads 
 in the inch, and is equal in fineness to a Glasgow 
 24°° and five splits more. This scale of reeds is called 
 the Stockport count. The other cotton goods of 
 Manchester, however, are usually made to the scale 
 of 24^ inches ; and counted by the number of beers 
 in that measure. The beer is twenty dents or splits. 
 This scale is called the Manchester and Bolton 
 count. Thus 50, according to this scale, is equal 
 to a Glasgow 15 00 and twenty-five splits more. 
 
 642. The hundred splits in all kinds of reeds is 
 nominally divided into five equal portions for the 
 sake of calculation, called porters in Scotland and 
 beers in England, each porter consisting, of course, 
 of twenty splits. The English beer and Scotch 
 porter are, therefore, synonymous. In the flannel 
 
278 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 manufacture of Rochdale, the beer is but 17 dents, 
 and the work is counted by the number of beers in 
 36 inches. 
 
 643. The following Table exhibits a compara- 
 tive view of the Scotch thirty-seven inch reed with 
 the two English counts. The first column con- 
 tains the hundreds in the Scotch reed, the second 
 the splits or dents in an inch, the third the beers 
 in the Manchester and Bolton reed of 24^ inches, 
 and the fourth the threads in an inch, according 
 to the Stockport count : — 
 
 Hundreds. 
 
 Splits 
 in 
 
 an inch. 
 
 Manches- 
 ter and 
 Bolton. 
 
 Stockport. 
 
 Hundreds. 
 
 Splits 
 in 
 
 an inch. 
 
 Manches- 
 ter and 
 Bolton. 
 
 Stockport. 
 
 500 
 
 13 
 
 16| 
 
 26 
 
 Igoo 
 
 49 
 
 59 
 
 98 
 
 6 00 
 
 16 
 
 20 
 
 32 
 
 I900 
 
 51 
 
 
 102 
 
 
 19 
 
 23 
 
 38 
 
 20°° 
 
 54 
 
 m 
 
 108 
 
 goo 
 
 22 
 
 26 
 
 44 
 
 2loo 
 
 57 
 
 69 
 
 114 
 
 900 
 
 24 
 
 29| 
 
 48 
 
 22 00 
 
 60 
 
 72 
 
 120 
 
 IO 00 
 
 27 
 
 33 
 
 54 
 
 23 00 
 
 62 
 
 75i 
 
 124 
 
 Hoc 
 
 30 
 
 36 
 
 60 
 
 24°° 
 
 65 
 
 79 
 
 130 
 
 12°° 
 
 32 
 
 39i 
 
 64 
 
 25°° 
 
 68 
 
 82 
 
 136 
 
 13°° 
 
 35 
 
 42| 
 
 70 
 
 26 00 
 
 71 
 
 85| 
 
 142 
 
 14°° 
 
 38 
 
 46 
 
 76 
 
 2700 
 
 74 
 
 89 
 
 148 
 
 I500 
 
 41 
 
 49 
 
 82 
 
 28 00 
 
 76 
 
 72 
 
 152 
 
 I6 00 
 
 43 
 
 m 
 
 86 
 
 29 00 
 
 79 
 
 95 
 
 158 
 
 1700 
 
 46 
 
 56 
 
 92 
 
 30°° 
 
 82 
 
 m 
 
 164 
 
 644. The art of adapting the yarn to the dif- 
 ferent sets of reeds, so as to make fabrics of different 
 fineness, proportional to each other in the relative 
 degree in which the reeds differ from each other 
 respectively, is called setting, caaming, or sleying. 
 The reed, or as it is called in the woollen manufac- 
 
CALCULATIONS, 
 
 279 
 
 ture, the sley, is the measure, and the relative grist of 
 yarn for different sets of reeds is the proportion 
 sought. 
 
 645. Now as the threads are cylinders whose 
 bases are to the measure of the reed, to produce a 
 relative closeness of texture, as the squares of their 
 diameters, the rule will be that — As the square of 
 any given set of reed is to the grist of yarn as adapted 
 for that reed, so will the square of any other set of 
 reed be to the grist of yarn for making the same 
 fabric. Thus, for example, if a 16 00 Jaconet is 
 made with yarn No. 130, what number should be 
 used to make a similar fabric in an 18 00 reed? In 
 this case the question is one of proportion direct,— 
 16 is to 130 what 18 is to the number sought. The 
 square of 16 or 16 multiplied into itself is 256, and 
 that of 18 is 324. The operation will, therefore, 
 stand thus — 
 
 162 _ 256 : 130 : : 18 2 = 324 : 164 
 
 130 
 
 9720 
 324 
 
 256)42120(164 
 256 
 
 1652 
 1536 
 
 1160 
 1024 
 
 136 17 
 
 256 32 
 
 The fractional quantity may be thrown away, 
 and 164 s will be the number of yarn required for a 
 similar fabric in an 18 00 reed. 
 
280 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 646. In cases where odd porters occur in the 
 scale to which the reed is made, and these cases are 
 very frequent, the reed must be thrown into porters, 
 or half porters as in calculating half sets. Thus, if a 
 16 00 lawn were made with yarn No. 200, what should 
 be the number of yarn for a l6 00 and half of the 
 same make ? 
 
 Hundreds. 
 
 Hundreds. 16! 
 
 16 10 half porters in hundreds. 
 
 10 T65~ 
 
 160 165 
 
 160 825 
 
 9600 990 
 
 160 165 
 
 25600 : 200 : : 27225 
 
 200 
 
 256|00)54450|00(212 
 512 
 
 325 
 256 
 
 690 
 512 
 
 178 = T %% 
 
 647. When the grist of the yarn is given, to find 
 the reed for which it is required to be used, the pro- 
 portion of the yarn to the reed given is as that of 
 the yarn to the reed sought; and, therefore, the pro- 
 portion of the terms must be inverted, and the square 
 root of the fourth term extracted for the answer. 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 281 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 If yarn No. 70 make a 16 00 cambric, what set 
 will No. 93 make ? 
 
 16 2 = 256, then the proportion will be 
 
 70 : 256 :: 93 : 340 . . 
 
 93 and 340.8(18.46 
 768 1 
 
 2304 28)240 
 
 7|0)23S0|8 8 224 
 
 340-8 364(1680 
 
 4 1456 
 
 3686(22400 
 22116 
 
 284 
 
 That is an 18 hundred reed and 46 splits, or 
 nearly. 
 
 648. Caaming Tables may likewise be easily colC^ 
 structed by taking the difference between two adja 
 cent squares. The mean proportional m n between 
 any two of the natural series of squares, as l 2 , 2 2 , 3 2 , 
 4 2 , = 1, 4, 9, 16, &c. is equal to the less square plus its 
 root multiplied by the difference of the roots; or equal 
 to the greater square minus its root multiplied by 
 the difference of the roots. That is m n — m 2 -f d 
 m = n 2 — d n ; where d === n — m is the difference 
 of their roots. Thus, 16 is the square of 4, and if the 
 root is added to its square and that sum divided by 
 the same root, and the quotient again added to the 
 
282 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 dividend, the sum will be the square of a root greater 
 by one than that of the given square ; for example, 
 
 4)16 is the square of 4 
 4 
 
 4) 20 
 
 5 
 
 5) 25 is the square of 5 
 
 5 
 
 5)30 
 6 
 
 36 is the square of 6, &c. &c. 
 
 649. Having fixed on the number of the yarn for 
 the required fabric in the given set of reed, divide 
 that number by the set of the reed, and to the divi- 
 dend add the quotient ; and this sum is the number 
 of the yarn for the next half set. Divide again the 
 number thus found by the same set of reed and add 
 the quotient as before, and the sum will be the re- 
 quired number of yarn for the full set. The opera- 
 tion is thus a repetition of the question for each set 
 and half set; the divisor, it must always be observed, 
 is the set or number of the reed for the required set 
 and half set. The numbers are thus ascending in the 
 scale by addition, but where the series is a descending 
 one, from a higher to a lower set, the operation must 
 be done by subtracting the quotient from the divi- 
 dend: as in the following example, where the opera- 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 283 
 
 tion is presented both for ascending and descending 
 sets, commencing with a 12°°, yarn No. 72 s . 
 
 acta 
 
 12)72 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 act a. 
 
 12)78 for a 
 
 XJ.D 
 
 m 
 
 Slit). 
 
 12)72 
 6 
 
 
 acid 
 
 13)84.5 — 
 a Pi 
 
 0.0 
 
 13 
 
 sub. 
 
 12)66 for an 
 
 in 
 
 aau. 
 
 13)91 — 
 
 7 
 
 131 
 
 sub. 
 
 11)60.5 — 
 5 5 
 
 11 
 
 auu. 
 
 14)98 — 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 en n 
 dUU< 
 
 11)55 — 
 5 
 
 101 
 
 
 14)105 — 
 
 7 
 
 141 
 
 cnT"» 
 
 bUU. 
 
 10)50 — 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 add 
 
 15)112.5 — 
 7.5 
 
 15 
 
 sub. 
 
 10)45 — 
 4.5 
 
 9£ 
 
 add 
 
 i km on 
 
 8 
 
 i £i 
 102 
 
 
 AC) Pi 
 
 0 
 
 add 
 
 16)128 — 
 __8 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 add 
 
 16)136 — 
 8.5 
 
 16| 
 
 
 
 
 add 
 
 17)144.5 — 
 8.5 
 
 153 — 
 
 17 
 
 171 
 
 
 
 
 650. Mr Murphy, in his "Art of Weaving," gives 
 two tables of the logarithms of the reeds and yarns, 
 for the purpose of facilitating calculation in con- 
 structing caaming tables, which may be useful. 
 
 The first table refers to the reeds, and the second 
 to the yarns. The first two columns of the first 
 table contain the two English counts, and the third 
 the Scotch. The fourth is the log. of the hun- 
 dreds, and the five following the log. of the porters. 
 
284 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 The second table contains the log. of the yarn from 
 Nos. 1 to 264. 
 
 651. In calculating by them, subtract the logar- 
 ithm of the given set of reed from 10,000, and to 
 the remainder add the logarithm of the numbers of 
 yarn, as a constant quantity for the construction of 
 the table. The number of yarn for any other set 
 of reed is then found by adding the log. of the required 
 reed to this constant quantity, and their sum will be 
 the log. of the numbers of yarn for the reed sought. 
 
 652. For example — Suppose acaamingtablewere 
 required for Jaconets commencing with a 7 00 reed, 
 and the fabric were 7^ s in a 12°°, wefted with 80 s . 
 Then take the log. of 12°°, which is 2158, and which 
 will be found in the 4th column, opposite its set of 
 reed, and subtract this number from 10,000 and the 
 remainder will be 7842. Then the log. of the number 
 of yarn 7^ s taken from the second table is 1857, and 
 their sum is 9699, the constant quantity for the con- 
 struction of the table, 
 
 Then the log. of the 7 00 reed is 1690, and 
 this number added to the constant quantity gives 
 1389 by omitting the first figure at the left hand, 
 when the sum of the addition exceeds four figures. 
 Now the nearest log. to this number in the table is 
 1380, and its number 24 is the required number of 
 yarn for a 7 00 reed. 
 
 653. Then again for a 7 00 and a half, the log. 
 for which is 1750, found in the 7th column opposite 
 the full set of reed, and that number added to the 
 constant quantity gives, by omitting the first figure 
 as before, 1449 ; and the nearest number of yarn to 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 285 
 
 it in the table is 28 s , the number required for a 
 7 00 and a half — and so on according to the following 
 example, where the construction of a caaming table 
 is shown as formed in this manner from the tables. 
 
 Reed. 
 
 Warp. 
 
 Weft. 
 
 700 
 
 24 
 
 27 
 
 71 
 
 28 
 
 31 
 
 goo 
 
 32 
 
 36 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 45 
 
 :o 00 
 
 50 
 
 56 
 
 noo 
 
 61 
 
 67 
 
 1200 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 13 oo 
 
 84 
 
 94 
 
 1400 
 
 98 
 
 109 
 
 1500 
 
 112 
 
 125 
 
 I600 
 
 128 
 
 142 
 
 Constant 
 quantity 9699 
 
 1690 warp. 
 
 Constant 
 quantity 9745 
 
 1690 weft. 
 
 700 
 
 11389 = 
 
 24 
 
 700 
 
 11435 
 
 = 27 
 
 
 9699 
 1750 
 
 
 
 9745 
 1750 
 
 
 71 
 
 11449 = 
 
 28 
 
 n 
 
 1141)5 
 
 = 31 
 
 
 9699 
 1806 
 
 
 
 9745 
 1806 
 
 
 goo 
 
 11505 = 
 
 32 
 
 goo 
 
 11551 
 
 = 36 
 
 
 9699 
 1908 
 
 
 
 9745 
 1903 
 
 
 900 
 
 11607 = 
 
 40 
 
 900 
 
 11653 
 
 = 45 
 
286 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 TABLE I. 
 
 REEDS. 
 
 inch. 
 
 0 
 
 Ck 
 
 Hund. 
 
 on 37 
 inches* 
 
 Log. 
 
 Log. 
 
 Log. 
 
 Log. 
 
 Log. 
 
 Log. 
 
 & W 
 
 s 
 
 hund. 
 
 1 por. 
 
 2 por. 
 
 2fc por. 
 
 3 por. 
 
 4 por. 
 
 o? 
 
 ft 
 u 
 
 1 00 
 
 JL \J \J 
 
 0000 
 
 yjyjyjyj 
 
 01 58 
 
 0292 
 
 0352 
 
 0408 
 
 OilO 
 
 \j 0 x yj 
 
 ftl 
 02 
 
 1 0 
 
 200 
 
 0602 
 
 0884 
 
 0780 
 
 0795 
 
 0830 
 
 0394 
 
 1 0 
 
 1 ft 
 
 300 
 
 0954 
 
 1010 
 
 1081 
 
 1088 
 
 1112 
 
 1159 
 
 1 3 
 
 99 
 — — 
 
 400 
 
 1204 
 
 x Li yjrt 
 
 1 24ft 
 
 X Z/ TtU 
 
 1 98ft 
 
 1 30ft 
 
 1 324 
 
 X OLl^L 
 
 1462 
 
 JLL>2 
 
 9ft 
 
 500 
 
 1397 
 
 X %J U J 
 
 1432 
 
 X ^cOLl 
 
 14fi4 
 
 1 480 
 
 1496 
 
 1526 
 
 90 
 li\) 
 
 32 
 
 600 
 
 X rJUU 
 
 1 584 
 
 1 fil 2 
 
 1 fi28 
 
 1 639 
 
 x yjtj u 
 
 1664 
 
 93 
 
 38 
 
 700 
 
 1690 
 
 x yj 0 yj 
 
 1714 
 
 X 1 x<± 
 
 1738 
 
 1750 
 
 x 4 uyj 
 
 1760 
 
 x t yjyj 
 
 1784 
 
 9ft 
 
 44 
 
 800 
 
 1806 
 
 1 827 
 
 X Oa; 1 
 
 1848 
 
 X (J 
 
 1858 
 
 1868 
 
 1888 
 
 9Q1 
 
 48 
 
 900 
 
 1908 
 
 X t/UO 
 
 1 927 
 
 X O ~ 1 
 
 1 94 ft 
 
 1 955 
 
 X tJOO 
 
 1 9ft4 
 
 1982 
 
 33 
 
 54 
 
 1 000 
 
 X WW 
 
 2000 
 
 201 7 
 
 2034 
 
 2042 
 
 2050 
 
 2066 
 
 3ft 
 
 fiO 
 
 1 100 
 
 2083 
 
 l. yJ<oo 
 
 2098 
 
 21 1 3 
 
 21 21 
 
 X — X 
 
 2128 
 
 2143 
 
 QOl 
 
 oy 2 
 
 fi4 
 
 1200 
 
 jl li \j \j 
 
 2158 
 
 21 72 
 
 21 86 
 
 21 93 
 
 
 2214 
 
 4^2 
 
 70 
 
 1 300 
 
 2227 
 
 — • M* Li 1 
 
 2241 
 
 2254 
 
 &L/O 
 
 22ft0 
 
 2287 
 
 ^279 
 
 Aft 
 
 7ft 
 
 1 400 
 
 JL lUu 
 
 2292 
 
 2304 
 
 2318 
 
 2322 
 
 2328 
 
 2340 
 
 
 89 
 
 Oli 
 
 1 500 
 
 ±0\J\J 
 
 2352 
 
 2383 
 
 2375 
 
 2380 
 
 238ft 
 
 2397 
 
 KOI 
 
 Oa 2 
 
 8ft 
 
 1 ftOO 
 
 2408 
 
 241 9 
 
 2429 
 
 2434 
 
 2440 
 
 2450 
 
 oft 
 
 92 
 
 Vli 
 
 1700 
 
 2400 
 
 2471 
 
 — JL i X 
 
 2481 
 
 248fi 
 
 2491 
 
 (C>X:i7 X 
 
 2500 
 
 59 
 
 98 
 
 1 800 
 low 
 
 251 0 
 
 2590 
 
 9^99 
 
 2^34 
 
 9^39 
 
 2'i48 
 
 62^ 
 
 1 09 
 
 1 900 
 
 x ijyjyj 
 
 2557 
 
 2^88 
 
 LiOyJyj 
 
 2^75 
 
 2^80 
 
 2584 
 
 2 593 
 
 65| 
 
 108 
 
 2000 
 
 2602 
 
 2610 
 
 2619 
 
 2623 
 
 2627 
 
 2636 
 
 69 
 
 114 
 
 2100 
 
 2644 
 
 2652 
 
 2660 
 
 2664 
 
 2668 
 
 2676 
 
 72 
 
 118 
 
 2200 
 
 2684 
 
 2692 
 
 2700 
 
 2704 
 
 2708 
 
 2715 
 
 75| 
 
 124 
 
 2300 
 
 2723 
 
 2730 
 
 2738 
 
 2742 
 
 2745 
 
 2753 
 
 781 
 
 130 
 
 2400 
 
 2760 
 
 2767 
 
 2774 
 
 2778 
 
 2781 
 
 2788 
 
 82 
 
 134 
 
 2500 
 
 2795 
 
 2802 
 
 2809 
 
 2813 
 
 2816 
 
 2823 
 
 S5 
 
 140 
 
 2600 
 
 2829 
 
 2836 
 
 2843 
 
 2846 
 
 2849 
 
 2856 
 
 88| 
 
 146 
 
 2700 
 
 2862 
 
 2869 
 
 2875 
 
 2878 
 
 2881 
 
 2888 
 
 92 
 
 152 
 
 2800 
 
 2894 
 
 2900 
 
 2906 
 
 2909 
 
 2912 
 
 2918 
 
 95 
 
 156 
 
 2900 
 
 2924 
 
 2930 
 
 2936 
 
 2939 
 
 2942 
 
 2948 
 
 98i 
 
 162 
 
 3000 
 
 2954 
 
 2960 
 
 2965 
 
 2968 
 
 2971 
 
 2977 
 
 102 
 
 168 
 
 3100 
 
 2982 
 
 2988 
 
 2993 
 
 2996 
 
 2999 
 
 3004 
 
 105 
 
 172 
 
 3200 
 
 3010 
 
 3015 
 
 3021 
 
 3023 
 
 3026 
 
 3031 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 TABLE II. 
 
 NUMBERS OF COTTON YARN. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 I 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 1 
 
 0000 
 
 34 
 
 1531 
 
 67 
 
 1826 
 
 100 
 
 2000 
 
 2 
 
 0301 
 
 35 
 
 1544 
 
 68 
 
 1832 
 
 101 
 
 2004 
 
 3 
 
 0477 
 
 36 
 
 1556 
 
 69 
 
 1838 
 
 102 
 
 2008 
 
 4 
 
 0602 
 
 37 
 
 1568 
 
 70 
 
 1845 
 
 103 
 
 2012 
 
 5 
 
 0698 
 
 38 
 
 1579 
 
 71 
 
 1851 
 
 104 
 
 2017 
 
 6 
 
 0778 
 
 39 
 
 1591 
 
 72 
 
 1857 
 
 105 
 
 2021 
 
 7 
 
 0845 
 
 40 
 
 1602 
 
 73 
 
 1863 
 
 106 
 
 2025 
 
 ft 
 
 o 
 
 0903 
 
 41 
 
 1612 
 
 74 
 
 1869 
 
 107 
 
 2029 
 
 9 
 
 0954 
 
 42 
 
 1623 
 
 75 
 
 1875 
 
 108 
 
 2033 
 
 10 
 
 1000 
 
 43 
 
 1633 
 
 76 
 
 1880 
 
 109 
 
 2037 
 
 11 
 
 1041 
 
 44 
 
 1643 
 
 77 
 
 1886 
 
 110 
 
 2041 
 
 12 
 
 1079 
 
 45 
 
 1653 
 
 78 
 
 1892 
 
 111 
 
 2045 
 
 13 
 
 1114 
 
 46 
 
 1662 
 
 79 
 
 1897 
 
 112 
 
 2049 
 
 14 
 
 1146 
 
 47 
 
 1672 
 
 80 
 
 1903 
 
 113 
 
 2053 
 
 15 
 
 1176 
 
 48 
 
 1681 
 
 81 
 
 1908 
 
 114 
 
 2056 
 
 16 
 
 1204 
 
 49 
 
 1690 
 
 82 
 
 1913 
 
 115 
 
 2060 
 
 17 
 
 1230 
 
 50 
 
 1699 
 
 83 
 
 1919 
 
 116 
 
 2064 
 
 18 
 
 1255 
 
 51 
 
 1707 
 
 84 
 
 1924 
 
 117 
 
 2068 
 
 19 
 
 1278 
 
 52 
 
 1716 
 
 85 
 
 1929 
 
 118 
 
 2071 
 
 20 
 
 1301 
 
 53 
 
 1724 
 
 86 
 
 1934 
 
 119 
 
 2075 
 
 21 
 
 1322 
 
 54 
 
 1732 
 
 87 
 
 1939 
 
 120 
 
 2079 
 
 22 
 
 1342 
 
 55 
 
 1740 
 
 88 
 
 1944 
 
 121 
 
 2082 
 
 23 
 
 1361 
 
 56 
 
 1748 
 
 89 
 
 1949 
 
 122 
 
 2086 
 
 24 
 
 1380 
 
 57 
 
 1755 
 
 90 
 
 1954 
 
 123 
 
 2090 
 
 25 
 
 1398 
 
 58 
 
 1763 
 
 91 
 
 1959 
 
 124 
 
 2093 
 
 26 
 
 1415 
 
 59 
 
 1770 
 
 92 
 
 1963 
 
 125 
 
 2096 
 
 27 
 
 1431 
 
 60 
 
 1778 
 
 93 
 
 1968 
 
 126 
 
 2100 
 
 28 
 
 1447 ! 
 
 61 
 
 1785 
 
 94 
 
 1973 
 
 127 
 
 2103 
 
 29 
 
 1462 
 
 62 
 
 1792 
 
 95 
 
 1977 
 
 128 
 
 2107 
 
 30 
 
 1477 
 
 63 
 
 1799 
 
 96 
 
 1982 
 
 129 
 
 2110 
 
 31 
 
 1491 
 
 64 
 
 1806 
 
 97 
 
 1986 
 
 130 
 
 2113 
 
 32 
 
 1505 
 
 65 
 
 1812 
 
 98 
 
 1991 
 
 131 
 
 2117 
 
 33 
 
 1518 
 
 66 
 
 1819 
 
 99 
 
 1995 
 
 132 
 
 2120 
 
288 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 TABLE II. CONTINUED. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 No. 
 
 Log. 
 
 133 
 
 2123 
 
 
 
 166 
 
 2220 
 
 199 
 
 2298 
 
 232 
 
 2365 
 
 134 
 
 2127 
 
 167 
 
 2222 
 
 200 
 
 2301 
 
 233 
 
 2367 
 
 135 
 
 2130 
 
 168 
 
 2225 
 
 201 
 
 2303 
 
 234 
 
 2369 
 
 136 
 
 2133 
 
 169 
 
 2227 
 
 202 
 
 2305 
 
 235 
 
 2371 
 
 J37 
 
 2136 
 
 170 
 
 2230 
 
 2C3 
 
 2307 
 
 236 
 
 2373 
 
 138 
 
 2139 
 
 171 
 
 2232 
 
 204 
 
 2309 
 
 237 
 
 2374 
 
 139 
 
 2143 
 
 172 
 
 2235 
 
 205 
 
 3311 
 
 238 
 
 2376 
 
 140 
 
 2146 
 
 173 
 
 2238 
 
 206 
 
 2313 
 
 239 
 
 2378 
 
 141 
 
 2149 
 
 174 
 
 2240 
 
 207 
 
 2315 
 
 240 
 
 2380 
 
 142 
 
 2152 
 
 175 
 
 2243 
 
 208 
 
 2318 
 
 241 
 
 2382 
 
 143 
 
 2155 
 
 176 
 
 2245 
 
 209 
 
 2320 
 
 242 
 
 2383 
 
 144 
 
 2158 
 
 177 
 
 2247 
 
 210 
 
 2322 
 
 243 
 
 2385 
 
 145 
 
 216L 
 
 178 
 
 2250 
 
 211 
 
 2324 
 
 244 
 
 2387 
 
 146 
 
 2164 
 
 179 
 
 2252 
 
 212 
 
 2326 
 
 245 
 
 2389 
 
 147 
 
 2167 
 
 180 
 
 2255 
 
 213 
 
 2328 
 
 246 
 
 2391 
 
 148 
 
 2170 
 
 181 
 
 2257 
 
 214 
 
 2330 
 
 247 
 
 2392 
 
 149 
 
 2173 
 
 182 
 
 2260 
 
 215 
 
 2332 
 
 248 
 
 2394 
 
 150 
 
 2176 
 
 183 
 
 2262 
 
 216 
 
 2334 
 
 249 
 
 2396 
 
 151 
 
 2178 
 
 184 
 
 2264 
 
 217 
 
 2336 
 
 250 
 
 2398 
 
 152 
 
 2181 
 
 185 
 
 2267 
 
 218 
 
 2338 
 
 251 
 
 2399 
 
 153 
 
 2134 
 
 186 
 
 2269 
 
 219 
 
 2340 
 
 252 
 
 2401 
 
 154 
 
 2187 
 
 187 
 
 2271 
 
 220 
 
 2342 
 
 253 
 
 2403 
 
 155 
 
 2190 
 
 188 
 
 2274 
 
 221 
 
 2344 
 
 254 
 
 2405 
 
 156 
 
 2193 
 
 189 
 
 2276 
 
 222 
 
 2346 
 
 255 
 
 2406 
 
 157 
 
 2195 
 
 190 
 
 2278 
 
 223 
 
 2348 
 
 256 
 
 2408 
 
 158 
 
 2198 
 
 191 
 
 2281 
 
 224 
 
 2350 
 
 257 
 
 2410 
 
 159 
 
 2201 
 
 192 
 
 2283 
 
 225 
 
 2352 
 
 258 
 
 2411 
 
 160 
 
 2204 
 
 193 
 
 2285 
 
 226 
 
 2354 
 
 259 
 
 2413 
 
 161 
 
 2206 
 
 194 
 
 2287 
 
 227 
 
 2356 
 
 260 
 
 2415 
 
 162 
 
 2209 
 
 195 
 
 2290 
 
 228 
 
 2358 
 
 261 
 
 2416 
 
 163 
 
 2212 
 
 196 
 
 2292 
 
 229 
 
 2359 
 
 262 
 
 2418 
 
 164 
 
 2214 
 
 197 
 
 2294 
 
 230 
 
 2361 
 
 263 
 
 2420 
 
 165 
 
 2217 
 
 198 
 
 2296 
 
 231 
 
 2363 
 
 264 
 
 2421 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 289 
 
 654. The calculations connected with the work 
 are chiefly such as are necessary for ascertaining 
 the cost of the goods ; or the quantity of yarn, as 
 necessary to make them, without any reference to 
 the cost. 
 
 655. In estimating the cost of any description 
 of cloth, the quantity of yarn as necessary to make 
 it must be known, as well as the price of the yarn, 
 and the price of the weaving. 
 
 656. The quantity of yarn, as necessary for any 
 given piece of cloth, is dependent on the length of 
 the piece, the number of porters or beers in its 
 breadth, and the number of shots on the glass. 
 The calculations for cotton, linen, and woollen 
 cloth, &c, are based on the length of the spyndle. 
 Thus the cotton spyndle is 15,120 yards, and the 
 linen 14,400. The length of the cotton spyndle is, 
 therefore, to that of the linen as 21 to 20. 
 
 657. Now as the piece or web in Scotland is 
 measured in hand loom work by the ell (which is 
 five-fourths or 45 inches,) one round of the reel in 
 calculations for linen warps will make exactly a 
 splitful an ell long, — a cut, 6 porters, — a heer, 12, — 
 a hank, 7% — a hesp, 144, — and a spyndle, 288. 
 Hence the rule to find the number of spyndles in a 
 given length of linen warp is to multiply the ells by 
 the porters and divide by 288. 
 
 For example, — How many spyndles will it re- 
 quire to make a web 100 ells long — with seventy 
 porters ? 
 
 T 
 
290 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 100 
 
 70 
 
 288)7000(24 spyndles. 
 576 
 
 1240 
 1152 
 
 72)88(1 hank. 
 72 
 
 6)16(2f cuts. 
 12 
 
 4 = § 
 
 658. If the yarn is given, to find the ells it will 
 make with a given number of porters, — multiply 
 288 by the spyndles, and divide by the porters. 
 
 659. If the warp is to be calculated by the yard, 
 36 inches, instead of the ell, the number 360 must 
 be substituted for 288 ; — because 36 are to 45 as 
 288 to 360. And thus the last example if wrought 
 accordingly will be as follows : — 
 
 100 ells = 125 yards. 
 
 70 
 
 36|0)875|0(24 spyndles, 1 hank, 2§ cuts, 
 72 the same answer as before. 
 
 155 
 144 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 )44(1 
 36 
 
 8 
 12 
 
 )96(2 
 72 
 
 24 = f 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 291 
 
 660. The rule for the calculation of cotton 
 warps is the same as for linen ; only that the divi- 
 sor is different in consequence of the difference in 
 the length of the spyndle. The cotton spyndle 
 makes 302.4 porters an ell long, and the hank six- 
 teen porters and sixteen splits, and, therefore, the 
 divisor for cotton warps is 302.4. The fraction, 
 however, may he thrown away as unnecessarily 
 accurate for practice, and the more so if the re- 
 mainder is divided by 20 for hanks instead of 16.8, 
 which makes an allowance for it. 
 
 661. These calculations are made to show the 
 nett produce of the yarn, but some allowance must 
 be made for waste ; and five per cent, is generally 
 deducted on that account. 
 
 662. To avoid the trouble of calculation as much 
 as possible, tables have long been in use for show- 
 ing the quantity of yarn as necessary for any length 
 of warp with any number of porters which is com- 
 monly made ; and likewise for the weft, according 
 to the breadth of the web, and the number of shots 
 on the glass. The following tables for the warp 
 and the weft are taken from Mr Macfarlane's Cal- 
 culator, and are given as being as good as any 
 other. But where indeed the subject is so much 
 restricted, and has been so long before the trade, 
 there can be little novelty or improvement expected 
 in them. 
 
 The first two tables give the number of porters 
 and splits in the given breadth as expressed by the 
 figures in the two top lines, from one nail or 2* 
 inches, to 24 nails, = % of a yard or 54 inches The 
 
TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 first top line gives the inches in the nail or fraction 
 of the yard as placed in the second line immediately 
 under it; and under these inches and fractions of the 
 yard in their several columns, are found the num- 
 ber of porters and splits respectively in each, ac- 
 cording to the fineness of the reed as indicated by 
 the hundreds in the first column, 
 
 In the tables for warp the quantity of yarn 
 is given as required for the web from one ell to 
 205, and from one porter to 150. The weft tables 
 are calculated from eight to 23 shots on the glass, 
 (exclusive of 20 and 22, which are easily found by 
 doubling the quantity of their respective halves 10 
 and 11, and which have been omitted for the con- 
 venience of having the whole line of the shots pre- 
 sented on the same page;) and forwidths of 24inches, 
 27, 30, 33, 36, 37, 40, 46, 48, and 54. The lengths 
 of the pieces are given from 1 yard to 125, rising by 
 tens after the first denary period. 
 
 The warp tables are calculated for the nett quan- 
 tity of yarn as required for linen, but they are appli- 
 cable to cotton, especially as they make the usual 
 allowance in the trade, of 5 per cent, for waste. 
 
CALCULATIONS. 293 
 TABLE OF PORTERS AND SPLITS. 
 
 24 
 
 ^4 
 
 22 
 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 <h 
 
 27 
 
 29J 
 
 31* 
 
 33| 
 
 36 
 
 
 
 1 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 3 
 
 JJ 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 4 
 
 Tfi 
 
 
 Tfi 
 
 
 Tfi 
 
 Tfi 
 
 1 fi 
 
 i fi 
 
 1 fi 
 
 1) 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Pr, 
 
 op. 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Pr. Sp. 
 
 1 
 l 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 X 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 6 
 
 21 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 9 
 
 25 .. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 7 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 ou • • 
 
 9 
 
 
 21 
 
 17 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 28 
 
 8 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 
 32 
 
 16 
 
 35 .. 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 25 
 
 
 27 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 
 32 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 
 37 
 
 10 
 
 40 .. 
 
 9 
 
 1 fi 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 
 18 
 
 33 
 
 15 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 7 
 
 42 
 
 3 
 
 45 
 
 Q 
 
 9 
 
 31 
 
 5 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 37 
 
 10 
 
 40 
 
 12 
 
 43 
 
 15 
 
 46 
 
 17 
 
 ou • • 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 u 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 37 
 
 16 
 
 41 
 
 5 
 
 44 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 51 
 
 11 
 
 55 *.. 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 37 
 
 10 
 
 4,1 
 
 5 
 
 45 
 
 
 48 
 
 15 
 
 52 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 5 
 
 60 .. 
 
 i< 
 
 1 
 
 40 
 
 12 
 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 15 
 
 52 
 
 16 
 
 56 
 
 17 
 
 60 
 
 18 
 
 65 .. 
 
 
 7 
 
 43 
 
 15 
 
 TO 
 
 2 
 
 52 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 17 
 
 61 
 
 5 
 
 65 
 
 12 
 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 46 
 
 17 
 
 51 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 5 
 
 60 
 
 18 
 
 65 
 
 12 
 
 70 
 
 6 
 
 75 .. 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 55 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 70 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 80 .. 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 ^8 
 
 8 
 
 63 
 
 15 
 
 69 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 8 
 
 79 
 
 13 
 
 85 .. 
 
 
 12 
 
 56 
 
 5 
 
 61 
 
 17 
 
 67 
 
 10 
 
 73 
 
 2 
 
 78 
 
 15 
 
 84 
 
 7 
 
 90 .. 
 
 
 18 
 
 59 
 
 7 
 
 65 
 
 5 
 
 71 
 
 5 
 
 77 
 
 7 
 
 83 
 
 3 
 
 89 
 
 2 
 
 95 
 
 
 5 
 
 62 
 
 10 
 
 68 
 
 15 
 
 75 
 
 
 81 
 
 5 
 
 87 
 
 10 
 
 93 
 
 15 
 
 100 .. 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 65 
 
 12 
 
 72 
 
 3 
 
 78 
 
 15 
 
 85 
 
 6 
 
 91 
 
 18 
 
 98 
 
 8 
 
 105 .. 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 68 
 
 15 
 
 75 
 
 12 
 
 82 
 
 10 
 
 89 
 
 7 
 
 96 
 
 8 
 
 103 
 
 3110 .. 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 71 
 
 17 
 
 79 
 
 1 
 
 86 
 
 5 
 
 93 
 
 9 
 
 100 
 
 12 
 
 107 
 
 17115 .. 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 75 
 
 
 82 
 
 10 
 
 90 
 
 
 97 
 
 10 
 
 105 
 
 
 112 
 
 10120 .. 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 78 
 
 2 
 
 85 
 
 19 
 
 93 
 
 15 
 
 101 
 
 11 
 
 109 
 
 8 
 
 117 
 
 4 
 
 125 .. 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 GO 
 
 5 
 
 89 
 
 8 
 
 97 
 
 10 
 
 105 
 
 12 
 
 113 
 
 15 
 
 121 
 
 18 
 
 130 .. 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 84 
 
 7 
 
 92 
 
 17 
 
 101 
 
 5 
 
 109 
 
 13 
 
 118 
 
 3 
 
 126 
 
 12 
 
 135 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 87 
 
 10 
 
 96 
 
 5 
 
 105 
 
 
 113 
 
 15 
 
 122 
 
 10 
 
 131 
 
 5 
 
 140 .. 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 91 
 
 12 
 
 99 
 
 14 
 
 108 
 
 15 
 
 117 
 
 16 
 
 126 
 
 18 
 
 135 
 
 19 
 
 145 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 94 
 
 15 
 
 103 
 
 3 
 
 112 
 
 10121 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 131 
 
 5 
 
 140 
 
 13 
 
 150 .. 
 
 It will not be overlooked by the manufacturer, that the web 
 shrinks in the weaving ; and more especially wet and overwefted 
 wrought work. If then the cloth is intended to stand at a cer- 
 tain width when woven, an allowance of some additional yarn 
 
294 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 TABLE OF PORTERS AND SPLITS. 
 
 Nails, 
 
 Kunds 
 
 5 
 6 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 10 
 11 
 12 
 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 16 
 
 17 
 18 
 19 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 
 
 1 7 
 
 1 G 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 26 
 
 1 1 
 
 31 
 
 17 
 
 37 
 
 3 
 
 42 
 
 10 
 
 47 
 
 16 
 
 53 
 
 2 
 
 58 
 
 8 
 
 63 
 
 15 
 
 69 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 7 
 
 79 
 
 13 
 
 85 
 
 
 90 
 
 6 
 
 95 
 
 12 
 
 100 
 
 19 
 
 106 
 
 5 
 
 111 
 
 11 
 
 116 
 
 18 
 
 122 
 
 3 
 
 127 
 
 10 
 
 132 
 
 16 
 
 138 
 
 2 
 
 143 
 
 8 
 
 148 
 
 15 
 
 154 
 
 1 
 
 159 
 
 7 
 
 403r 
 
 ill 
 ] 6 
 
 Pr. Sp 
 
 28 3 
 
 45 
 
 56 5 
 61 17 
 
 73 2 
 
 78 15 
 
 84 7 
 90 
 
 95 12 
 
 101 5 
 
 106 17 
 
 112 12 
 
 118 2 
 123 15 
 129 7 
 135 .. 
 140 13 
 
 146 5 
 
 151 18 
 
 157 10 
 
 163 3 
 
 168 15 
 
 42 
 
 5 
 4« 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 G 
 
 Pr. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 29 
 
 14 
 
 35 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 12 
 
 47 
 
 1 1 
 
 53 
 
 9 
 
 59 
 
 8 
 
 65 
 
 7 
 
 71 
 
 6 
 
 77 
 
 4 
 
 83 
 
 3 
 
 89 
 
 2 
 
 95 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 19 
 
 106 
 
 18 
 
 112 
 
 17 
 
 118 
 
 16 
 
 124 
 
 14 
 
 130 
 
 13 
 
 136 
 
 12 
 
 142 
 
 11 
 
 148 
 
 9 
 
 154 
 
 8 
 
 160 
 
 7 
 
 166 
 
 6 
 
 171 
 
 4 
 
 177 
 
 3 
 
 45 
 
 Pr . Sp 
 
 31 5 
 
 37 10 
 
 43 15 
 50 
 
 56 5 
 
 62 10 
 
 68 15 
 75 
 
 81 5 
 
 87 10 
 
 93 15 
 
 100 .. 
 
 106 
 112 
 118 
 125 
 
 49| 
 
 2JL 
 1 G 
 
 Pr. Sp. 
 
 22 
 1 fi 
 
 51| 
 
 23 
 Tfi 
 
 Pr. Sp 
 
 Pr. Sp. 
 
 32 161 34 8 35 14 
 
 39 7! 41 5 42 18 
 
 45 18 48 2 
 
 52 9 55 
 
 54 
 
 59 1 
 65 12 
 72 3 
 78 14 
 
 85 6 
 91 17 
 98 
 105 
 
 89 
 96 
 8103 
 110 
 
 5111 
 10118 
 
 11 
 
 162 10170 13 
 
 168 15 177 
 
 175 ..183 16 
 
 181 5 190 7 
 
 192 
 199 
 
 187 10 196 18 206 
 
 61 17 
 68 15 
 75 12 
 82 10 
 
 7 
 
 5100 
 2107 
 
 116 17121 
 
 2123 15 129 
 15124 14136 13 
 131 5 
 
 131 5 137 16 144 7 150 14 
 
 137 10144 8 151 5 157 18 
 
 143 15150 19 158 2 165 2 
 
 150 ..157 10 165 ..172 6 
 
 156 5 164 2 171 17 179 9 
 
 178 15 186 
 4 185 12 193 
 
 50 
 57 
 
 64 9 
 71 13 
 78 17 
 86 1 
 
 93 4 
 8 
 12 
 114 16 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 136 7 
 137 10143 11 
 
 13 
 17 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 5215 8 
 
 10201 
 
 7 208 
 
 Pr. Sp. 
 
 37 10 
 45 
 52 1 
 60 
 
 67 1 
 75 
 82 10 
 90 
 
 97 1 
 105 
 112 10 
 120 
 
 127 1 
 135 
 142 1 
 150 
 
 157 10 
 165 
 172 10 
 180 
 182 10 
 
 185 
 187 10 
 190 
 192 10 
 L95 
 
 must be made for the shrinking in warping the web. A yard 
 wide web will shrink from about half an inch to an inch, accord- 
 ing to the kind of fabric and manner in which it is woven. 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 295 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 1 1 
 
 91 
 
 Q3 
 6 t 
 
 K 
 O 
 
 
 
 XL.113, 
 
 i 
 
 X 
 
 o 
 
 <c 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 ft 
 
 f; 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 .. 12| 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 13| 
 
 2 2 
 
 2 14! 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 .. 12 
 
 1 . . 
 
 1 12 
 
 2 ! 
 
 2 12 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 .. Ill 
 
 .. 23| 
 
 1 11 
 
 1 22! 
 
 2 10 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 .. 11 
 
 .. 22| 
 
 1 10 
 
 1 21 
 
 2 8 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 .. 11 
 
 .. 2H 
 
 1 8! 
 
 1 19 
 
 2 6 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 .. 101 
 
 .. 21 
 
 1 7 
 
 1 17! 
 
 2 4 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 10 
 
 . . 20 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 16 
 
 2 2 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 .. 9| 
 
 .. 19 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 14! 
 
 2 .. 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 .. 9 
 
 .. 181 
 
 1 3! 
 
 1 12! 
 
 1 22 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 .. 8| 
 
 .. 17| 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 11 
 
 1 20 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 .. 8| 
 
 .. 16! 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 9! 
 
 1 17! 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 8 
 
 .. 16 
 
 1 .. 
 
 1 7! 
 
 1 15* 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 .. 7| 
 
 .. 15 
 
 .. 22! 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 13! 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 .. 7 
 
 .. 14 
 
 21 
 
 1 4! 
 
 l 11! 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 .. 6| 
 
 .i 13| 
 
 .. 20 
 
 1 2! 
 
 1 9! 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 .. 6 
 
 .. 12! 
 
 .. 19 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 7 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 .. 6 
 
 .. 11! 
 
 .. 17! 
 
 .. 23! 
 
 1 5 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 .. 5| 
 
 .. 11 
 
 .. 16' 
 
 .. 21! 
 
 1 3 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 .. 5 
 
 10 
 
 .. 15 
 
 . . 20 
 
 1 1 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 .. 4| 
 
 .. 9 
 
 .. 14 
 
 .. 18! 
 
 .. 23 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 .. 4 
 
 .. 8! 
 
 .. 12! 
 
 .. 16! 
 
 .. 21 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 .. 4 
 
 .. 7! 
 
 .. Ii' 
 
 .. 15 
 
 19 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 3| 
 
 6! 
 
 .. 10 
 
 .. 13! 
 
 16! 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 .. 3 
 
 .. 6 
 
 .. 9 
 
 . . 11! 
 
 .. 14! 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 .. 2| 
 
 .. 5 
 
 . . 7! 
 
 . . 10 
 
 .. 12! 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 .. 4 
 
 .. 6 
 
 8! 
 
 .. 10* 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 .. n 
 
 .. 3! 
 
 .. 5 
 
 . . 6! 
 
 .. 8! 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 .. i 
 
 .. 2! 
 
 . . 4 
 
 • • 5 
 
 .. 6 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 .. i 
 
 1! 
 
 . . 2! 
 
 
 .. 4 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 i 
 
 . . 1 
 
 . . H 
 
 . . 11 
 
 . . 2 
 
 100 
 
 41 
 
 
 
 
 
 .. 2 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 .. i 
 
 .. 1 
 
 .. 1 
 
 .. l! 
 
 .. U 
 
 80 
 
 3| 
 
 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 .. \ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 60 
 
 2| 
 
 
 
 
 
 . . l 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 .. * 
 
 .. i 
 
 \ 
 
 
 i 
 
 40 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 .. \ 
 
 20 
 L5 
 10 
 
 5 
 
296 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WARP TABLES, 
 
 Yards, 
 
 12| 
 
 18| 
 
 25 
 
 3H 
 
 371 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 O 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 1 
 
 4\) 
 
 I U 
 
 1 A 
 1U 
 
 1 Q 
 
 lo 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 (X 
 
 10 
 
 1 K 
 
 10 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 1 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 14 
 
 1 A 
 
 14b 
 
 10 
 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 91 
 
 ,cl 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 i 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 1 7 
 1 / 
 
 1 O 
 14 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 l /i 
 
 14b 
 
 14b 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 41) 
 
 1 7 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 y 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 7 
 1 / 
 
 1 A 
 
 14b 
 
 4 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 A, 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 4 
 
 0 
 
 1 Q 
 
 iy 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 4 
 
 1 1 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 1 Q 
 
 lo 
 
 i /I 
 
 14b 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 4b 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 0 
 
 1 9 
 14 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 i p. 
 lo 
 
 l n 
 lu 
 
 on 
 
 1 q 
 lo 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 4b 
 
 4b 
 
 p. 
 0 
 
 Pi 
 0 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 i n 
 
 i n 
 lu 
 
 1 9 
 
 1<£ 
 
 1 O 
 14 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 
 a 
 D 
 
 
 O 
 O 
 
 
 i n 
 
 1U 
 
 
 1 9 
 14 
 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 
 O 
 
 I ft 
 lo 
 
 7 
 
 1 £ 
 
 lo 
 
 Q 
 
 l q 
 
 Lo 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 O 
 
 1 ft 
 10 
 
 o 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 7 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 1 A 
 1U 
 
 OQ 
 /CO 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 q 
 
 O 
 
 1 l 
 
 1 1 
 
 o 
 
 0 
 
 P 
 0 
 
 no 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 i r 
 lo 
 
 i n 
 
 1U 
 
 U 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 7 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 9q 
 
 46 
 
 0 
 
 1 ,1 
 
 14b 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 O 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 oo 
 44 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 4b 
 
 1 7 
 1 / 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 on 
 4\) 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 ]800 
 
 85 
 
 o 
 
 4 
 
 90. 
 
 <CO 
 
 A 
 
 4fc 
 
 i n 
 
 c 
 O 
 
 99 
 44 
 
 7 
 
 q 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 Ol 
 
 /4l 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 o 
 
 i& 
 
 1 Q 
 iy 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 o 
 
 1 Q 
 
 lo 
 
 p. 
 D 
 
 oq 
 
 4o 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 IO 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 99 
 44 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 D 
 
 1 9 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 on 
 4\) 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 9 
 
 1U 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 lb 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 Ol 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 9 
 
 o 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 y 
 
 A 
 4b 
 
 1 o 
 
 l-o 
 
 O 
 
 1 t» 
 IO 
 
 D 
 
 1 Q 
 
 iy 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 A 
 4b 
 
 c 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 D 
 
 o 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 99 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 91 
 
 /Cl 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 on 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 1 0 
 
 i y 
 
 K 
 O 
 
 i ft 
 
 lo 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 ft 
 
 lo 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 1 K 
 
 lo 
 
 Q 
 
 O 
 
 1 1 
 
 A 
 4b 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 14b 
 
 9 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 oo 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 1 7 
 1 / 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 Q 
 
 e/ 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 o 
 
 9 
 4 
 
 1 Q 
 
 iy 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 1 1 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 A 
 
 4b 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 
 4 
 
 i n 
 
 1U 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 lo 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 /! 
 
 14b 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 O 
 4 
 
 1 ^ 
 10 
 
 q 
 O 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 • • 
 
 Ol 
 
 41 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 1 Q 
 
 lo 
 
 4 
 
 4b 
 
 4 
 
 l X 
 
 lo 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 
 i >v 
 
 JL 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 Q 
 
 y 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 Q 
 
 lo 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 • • 
 
 lo 
 
 • • 
 
 1 o 
 
 iy 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 1 A 
 
 14b 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 1 7 
 
 • • 
 
 <ol 
 5sl 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 81 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 13 
 
 100 
 
 4 \ 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 11 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 
 si 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 61 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 10 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 41 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 9 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 71 
 
 60 
 
 Or 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 6 
 
 ^n 
 
 ou 
 
 2 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 n 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 4 
 
 30 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 I* 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 21 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 JL 
 4 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
CALCULATIONS. 297 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 43| 
 
 50 
 
 
 62| 
 
 68| 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 35 
 
 40 
 
 45 
 
 50 
 
 55 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Krs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 lOU 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 28 
 
 16 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 17 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 16 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 27 
 
 17 
 
 9Q00 
 
 1 40 
 
 17 
 
 
 19 
 
 1 1 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 26 
 
 18 
 
 9800 
 
 135 
 
 xoo 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 19 
 
 9700 
 
 i 30 
 
 ±OU 
 
 15 
 
 19 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 22 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 9fi00 
 
 1 95 
 
 1 /CO 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 21 
 
 9500 
 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 22 
 
 22 
 
 9400 
 
 115 
 
 13 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 23 
 
 19 
 
 23 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 9300 
 
 1 1 0 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 
 9900 
 
 1 05 
 
 1 \JO 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 91 00 
 
 i on 
 
 1 uu 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 9000 
 
 /CUUU 
 
 95 
 
 *v o 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 1 900 
 
 1 cuu 
 
 90 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 1 800 
 
 o 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 I 700 
 
 I I uu 
 
 80 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 1 fiOO 
 
 1UUU 
 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 1 500 
 
 70 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 1 400 
 
 65 
 
 \jO 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 1 300 
 1 ouu 
 
 60 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 1 900 
 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 I 1 00 
 
 I I uu 
 
 50 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 1 000 
 1 uuu 
 
 45 
 
 rto 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 Q00 
 
 4,0 
 
 t:U 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 800 
 OUU 
 
 35 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 700 
 / UU 
 
 30 
 
 3 
 
 Id 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 fiOO 
 DUU 
 
 25 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 500 
 OUU 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 4,00 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 300 
 ouu 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 22 
 
 900 
 <cuu 
 
 5 
 
 
 1 a 1 
 
 14a 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 23 
 
 1 OO 
 
 1UU 
 
 41 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 19 
 
 . . 
 
 21 
 
 QO 
 
 4j 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 18 
 
 so 
 ou 
 
 3^ 
 0 2 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 16 
 
 *70 
 
 3 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 12| 
 
 
 14 
 
 fiO 
 uu 
 
 2| 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 10| 
 
 
 11 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 61 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 8* 
 
 
 9 
 
 A ft 
 
 U 
 
 
 41 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 5| 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 7 
 
 30 
 
 l 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3| 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 • • 
 
 4| 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 31 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 
 If 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 9i 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 u 
 
298 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 75i 
 
 
 87| 
 
 93f 
 
 100 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 60 
 
 65 
 
 70 
 
 75 
 
 80 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 33 
 
 21 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 16 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 32 
 
 17 
 
 35 
 
 6 
 
 37 
 
 18 
 
 40 
 
 7 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 29 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 14 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 38 
 
 21 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 32 
 
 20 
 
 35 
 
 4 
 
 37 
 
 12 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 8 
 
 31 
 
 14 
 
 33 
 
 21 
 
 36 
 
 3 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 28 
 
 5 
 
 30 
 
 9 
 
 32 
 
 13 
 
 34 
 
 17 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 25 
 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 4 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 33 
 
 8 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 23 
 
 23 
 
 25 
 
 23 
 
 27 
 
 23 
 
 29 
 
 23 
 
 31 
 
 23 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 22 
 
 22 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 26 
 
 18 
 
 28 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 13 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 25 
 
 13 
 
 27 
 
 8 
 
 29 
 
 4 
 
 2100 
 
 108 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 22 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 27 
 
 19 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 26 
 
 9 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 19 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 19 
 
 17 
 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 19 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 23 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 100 
 
 41 
 
 
 22 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 80 
 
 31 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 23 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 20 
 
 60 
 
 2\ 
 
 
 12 
 
 * • 
 
 14 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 17 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 14 
 
 40 
 
 U 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 • • 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 2\ 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 31 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ii 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 u 
 
 5 
 
CALCULATIONS. 299 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 106 
 
 im 
 
 118 
 
 125 
 
 131i 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 85 
 
 90 
 
 95 
 
 100 
 
 105 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 44 
 
 7 
 
 46 
 
 21 
 
 49 
 
 12 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 17 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 42 
 
 19 
 
 45 
 
 8 
 
 47 
 
 20 
 
 50 
 
 8 
 
 52 
 
 21 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 41 
 
 8 
 
 43 
 
 18 
 
 46 
 
 4 
 
 48 
 
 15 
 
 51 
 
 1 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 39 
 
 20 
 
 42 
 
 5 
 
 44 
 
 13 
 
 46 
 
 21 
 
 49 
 
 5 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 38 
 
 9 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 
 42 
 
 21 
 
 45 
 
 3 
 
 47 
 
 10 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 36 
 
 21 
 
 39 
 
 1 
 
 41 
 
 6 
 
 43 
 
 10 
 
 45 
 
 14 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 37 
 
 12 
 
 39 
 
 14 
 
 41 
 
 16 
 
 43 
 
 18 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 33 
 
 23 
 
 35 
 
 23 
 
 37 
 
 22 
 
 39 
 
 22 
 
 41 
 
 22 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 32 
 
 11 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 36 
 
 7 
 
 38 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 3 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 31 
 
 
 32 
 
 20 
 
 34 
 
 15 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 38 
 
 7 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 29 
 
 12 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 33 
 
 
 34 
 
 17 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 28 
 
 1 
 
 29 
 
 17 
 
 31 
 
 8 
 
 33 
 
 
 34 
 
 15 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 26 
 
 14 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 29 
 
 17 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 20 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 14 
 
 28 
 
 1 
 
 29 
 
 12 
 
 31 
 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 25 
 
 
 26 
 
 9 
 
 27 
 
 19 
 
 29 
 
 4 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 22 
 
 3 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 27 
 
 8 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 25 
 
 13 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 19 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 14 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 10 23 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 4 23 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 100 
 
 4| 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 80 
 
 3| 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 21 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 22 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 18 
 
 Aft 
 
 n 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 13 
 
 30 
 
 i 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 3i 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
300 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 137| 
 
 itef 
 
 150 
 
 156i 
 
 162| 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 110 
 
 115 
 
 120 
 
 125 
 
 130 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Sp. Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 57 7 
 
 59 22 
 
 62 12 
 
 65 3 
 
 67 17 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 55 9 
 
 57 22 
 
 60 10 
 
 62 22 
 
 65 11 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 53 11 
 
 55 22 
 
 58 8 
 
 60 18 
 
 63 5 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 51 14 
 
 53 22 
 
 56 6 
 
 58 14 
 
 60 23 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 49 16 
 
 51 22 
 
 54 4 
 
 56 10 
 
 58 16 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 47 18 
 
 49 22 
 
 52 2 
 
 54 6 
 
 56 10 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 45 20 
 
 47 22 
 
 50 .. 
 
 52 2 
 
 54 4 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 43 22 
 
 45 22 
 
 47 22 
 
 49 22 
 
 51 22 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 42 .. 
 
 43 22 
 
 45 20 
 
 47 18 
 
 49 16 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 40 3 
 
 41 22 
 
 43 18 
 
 45 14 
 
 47 10 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 38 5 
 
 39 22 
 
 41 16 
 
 43 10 
 
 45 3 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 36 7 
 
 37 22 
 
 39 14 
 
 41 6 
 
 42 21 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 34 '9 
 
 35 23 
 
 37 12 
 
 39 2 
 
 40 15 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 32 11 
 
 33 23 
 
 35 10 
 
 36 21 
 
 38 9 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 30 13 
 
 31 23 
 
 33 8 
 
 34 17 
 
 36 3 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 28 16 
 
 29 23 
 
 31 6 
 
 32 13 
 
 33 21 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 26 18 
 
 27 23 
 
 29 4 
 
 30 9 
 
 31 14 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 24 20 
 
 25 23 
 
 27 2 
 
 28 5 
 
 29 8 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 22 22 
 
 23 23 
 
 25 e. 
 
 26 1 
 
 27 2 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 21 .. 
 
 21 23 
 
 22 22 
 
 23 21 
 
 24 20 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 19 2 
 
 19 23 
 
 20 20 
 
 21 17 
 
 22 14 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 17 5 
 
 17 23 
 
 18 18 
 
 19 13 
 
 20 8 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 15 7 
 
 15 23 
 
 16 16 
 
 17 9 
 
 18 1 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 ]3 9 
 
 13 23 
 
 14 14 
 
 15 5 
 
 15 19 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 11 11 
 
 12 . . 
 
 12 12 
 
 13 1 
 
 13 13 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 9 13 
 
 10 .. 
 
 10 10 
 
 10 20 
 
 11 7 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 7 15 
 
 8 
 
 8 8 
 
 8 16 
 
 9 1 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 5 18 
 
 6 .. 
 
 6 6 
 
 6 12 
 
 6 19 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 3 20 
 
 4 .. 
 
 4 4 
 
 4 8 
 
 4 12 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 1 22 
 
 2 .. 
 
 2 2 
 
 2 4 
 
 2 6 
 
 100 
 
 41 
 
 1 17 
 
 1 19 
 
 1 21 
 
 1 23 
 
 2 1 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 1 13 
 
 1 14 
 
 1 16 
 
 1 18 
 
 1 19 
 
 80 
 
 31 
 
 1 8 
 
 1 10 
 
 1 11 
 
 1 13 
 
 1 14 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 7 
 
 1 9 
 
 60 
 
 21 
 
 .. 23 
 
 1 .. 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 .. 18 
 
 .. 19 
 
 20 
 
 .. 21 
 
 .. 22 
 
 40 
 
 H 
 
 .. 14 
 
 14 
 
 .. 15 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 .. 9 
 
 .. 10 
 
 .. 10 
 
 .. 11 
 
 . . 11 
 
 20 
 
 
 7 
 
 .. 7 
 
 7 
 
 . . 8 
 
 .. 8 
 
 15 
 
 
 .. 5 
 
 . . 5 
 
 5 
 
 .. 5 
 
 . 5 
 
 10 
 
 
 .. 2 
 
 .. 2 
 
 .. 2 
 
 .. 2 
 
 .. 3 
 
 5 
 
CALCULATIONS. 301 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 
 175 
 
 1«* 
 
 187| 
 
 193| 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 135 
 
 140 
 
 145 
 
 150 
 
 155 
 
 
 Porters 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 70 
 
 8 
 
 72 
 
 22 
 
 75 
 
 13 
 
 78 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 oU 
 
 18 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 67 
 
 23 
 
 70 
 
 1 o 
 
 12 
 
 wo 
 
 73 
 
 
 W C 
 
 7o 
 
 13 
 
 7o 
 
 1 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 65 
 
 15 
 
 68 
 
 1 
 
 70 
 
 12 
 
 72 
 
 act 
 
 22 
 
 H C 
 
 Q 
 
 0 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 63 
 
 7 
 
 65 
 
 15 
 
 67 
 
 23 
 
 70 
 
 o 
 
 8 
 
 
 1 p 
 
 lb 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 60 
 
 23 
 
 63 
 
 5 
 
 65 
 
 11 
 
 67 
 
 17 
 
 pa 
 by 
 
 OQ 
 
 23 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 58 
 
 14 
 
 60 
 
 18 
 
 62 
 
 22 
 
 65 
 
 3 
 
 an 
 
 7 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 56 
 
 6 
 
 58 
 
 8 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 62 
 
 12 
 
 a a 
 64 
 
 14 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 53 
 
 22 
 
 55 
 
 22 
 
 57 
 
 22 
 
 c a 
 
 59 
 
 22 
 
 p l 
 01 
 
 0 1 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 51 
 
 14 
 
 53 
 
 11 
 
 55 
 
 9 
 
 5 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 5 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 49 
 
 5 
 
 51 
 
 1 
 
 52 
 
 21 
 
 r A 
 
 54 
 
 17 
 
 5b 
 
 1 O 
 
 12 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 46 
 
 21 
 
 48 
 
 15 
 
 50 
 
 8 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 CO 
 
 53 
 
 OA 
 
 20 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 44 
 
 13 
 
 46 
 
 4 
 
 47 
 
 20 
 
 49 
 
 12 
 
 C 1 
 
 51 
 
 Q 
 
 3 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 42 
 
 5 
 
 43 
 
 18 
 
 45 
 
 8 
 
 /I o 
 
 4o 
 
 21 
 
 A Q 
 
 4o 
 
 1 1 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 39 
 
 20 
 
 41 
 
 8 
 
 A O 
 
 42 
 
 19 
 
 44 
 
 7 
 
 /I C 
 
 1 Q 
 
 lo 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 37 
 
 12 
 
 38 
 
 21 
 
 40 
 
 7 
 
 41 
 
 16 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 35 
 
 4 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 18 
 
 39 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 y 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 32 
 
 20 
 
 O A 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 6 
 
 3b 
 
 11 
 
 3 / 
 
 i p 
 
 lb 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 14 
 
 32 
 
 17 
 
 33 
 
 21 
 
 0 C 
 35 
 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 29 
 
 4 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 3.C 
 
 7 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 25 
 
 19 
 
 26 
 
 18 
 
 city 
 
 27 
 
 17 
 
 28 
 
 16 
 
 2y 
 
 1 A 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 2b 
 
 00 
 22 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 o i 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 OO 
 
 22 
 
 16 
 
 23 
 
 1 1 
 
 0,1 
 
 O 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 oa 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 0 i 
 
 13 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 
 17 
 
 15 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 i u 
 
 OA 
 
 20 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 1 A 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 1 p 
 lb 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 11. 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 i o 
 12 
 
 1 A 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 1 / 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 1 A 
 
 lo 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 L3 
 
 7 
 
 OA 
 
 20 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 0 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 1 / 
 
 4 
 
 Ol 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 e 
 
 A 
 
 y 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 i a 
 JO 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 1 c 
 15 
 
 Q 
 
 1 / 
 
 100 
 
 41 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 o 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 A 
 1U 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 91 
 A L 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 9^ 
 
 9 
 
 
 o 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 TP 
 
 80 
 
 31 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 60 
 
 2| 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 19 
 
 OU 
 
 1 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
302 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 200 
 
 2061 
 
 212| 
 
 218f 
 
 225 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 160 
 
 165 
 
 170 
 
 175 
 
 180 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sd 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sr> 
 op. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sn 
 op. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 op. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 83 
 
 8 
 
 85 
 
 23 
 
 88 
 
 13 
 
 91 
 
 4 
 
 93 
 
 18 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 80 
 
 13 
 
 83 
 
 2 
 
 85 
 
 14 
 
 88 
 
 3 
 
 90 
 
 15 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 77 
 
 19 
 
 80 
 
 5 
 
 82 
 
 15 
 
 85 
 
 2 
 
 87 
 
 12 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 75 
 
 
 77 
 
 8 
 
 79 
 
 17 
 
 82 
 
 1 
 
 84 
 
 9 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 72 
 
 5 
 
 74 
 
 12 
 
 76 
 
 18 
 
 79 
 
 
 81 
 
 6 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 69 
 
 11 
 
 71 
 
 15 
 
 73 
 
 19 
 
 75 
 
 23 
 
 < 8 
 
 3 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 66 
 
 16 
 
 68 
 
 18 
 
 70 
 
 20 
 
 72 
 
 22 
 
 75 
 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 63 
 
 21 
 
 65 
 
 21 
 
 67 
 
 21 
 
 69 
 
 21 
 
 71 
 
 21 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 61 
 
 3 
 
 63 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 22 
 
 66 
 
 20 
 
 68 
 
 18 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 58 
 
 8 
 
 60 
 
 4 
 
 62 
 
 
 63 
 
 19 
 
 65 
 
 15 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 55 
 
 13 
 
 57 
 
 7 
 
 59 
 
 1 
 
 60 
 
 18 
 
 62 
 
 16 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 52 
 
 19 
 
 54 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 2 
 
 57 
 
 17 
 
 59 
 
 9 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 50 
 
 
 51 
 
 14 
 
 53 
 
 3 
 
 54 
 
 17 
 
 56 
 
 6 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 47 
 
 5 
 
 48 
 
 17 
 
 50 
 
 4 
 
 51 
 
 16 
 
 53 
 
 3 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 44 
 
 11 
 
 45 
 
 20 
 
 47 
 
 5 
 
 48 
 
 15 
 
 50 
 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 41 
 
 16 
 
 42 
 
 23 
 
 44 
 
 7 
 
 45 
 
 14 
 
 46 
 
 21 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 38 
 
 21 
 
 40 
 
 3 
 
 41 
 
 8 
 
 42 
 
 13 
 
 43 
 
 18 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 36 
 
 3 
 
 37 
 
 6 
 
 38 
 
 9 
 
 39 
 
 12 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 33 
 
 8 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 12 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 30 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 12 
 
 32 
 
 11 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 27 
 
 19 
 
 28 
 
 16 
 
 29 
 
 12 
 
 30 
 
 9 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 25 
 
 
 25 
 
 19 
 
 26 
 
 14 
 
 27 
 
 8 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 25 
 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 100 
 
 4| 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 K 
 O 
 
 A 
 
 n 
 i 
 
 9 
 
 
 9 
 
 x u 
 
 9 
 
 1 9 
 
 80 
 
 3| 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 60 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 30 
 
 n 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 23 
 
 30 
 
 i 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
CALCULATIONS, 
 
 303 
 
 WARP TABLES. 
 
 Yards, 
 
 231* 
 
 237| 
 
 243 1 
 
 250 
 
 2561 
 
 
 Ells, 
 
 185 
 
 190 
 
 195 
 
 200 
 
 205 
 
 
 Porters. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Sp. 
 
 Hrs. 
 
 Splits. 
 
 150 
 
 96 
 
 9 
 
 98 
 
 23 
 
 101 
 
 14 
 
 104 
 
 4 
 
 106 
 
 19 
 
 3000 
 
 145 
 
 93 
 
 3 
 
 95 
 
 16 
 
 98 
 
 4 
 
 100 
 
 17 
 
 103 
 
 5 
 
 2900 
 
 140 
 
 89 
 
 22 
 
 92 
 
 9 
 
 94 
 
 19 
 
 97 
 
 5 
 
 99 
 
 16 
 
 2800 
 
 135 
 
 86 
 
 17 
 
 89 
 
 2 
 
 91 
 
 10 
 
 93 
 
 18 
 
 96 
 
 19 
 
 2700 
 
 130 
 
 83 
 
 12 
 
 85 
 
 18 
 
 88 
 
 3 
 
 90 
 
 9 
 
 92 
 
 13 
 
 2600 
 
 125 
 
 80 
 
 7 
 
 82 
 
 11 
 
 84 
 
 15 
 
 86 
 
 19 
 
 88 
 
 23 
 
 2500 
 
 120 
 
 77 
 
 2 
 
 79 
 
 4 
 
 81 
 
 6 
 
 83 
 
 8 
 
 85 
 
 10 
 
 2400 
 
 115 
 
 73 
 
 21 
 
 75 
 
 21 
 
 77 
 
 21 
 
 79 
 
 21 
 
 81 
 
 21 
 
 2300 
 
 110 
 
 70 
 
 16 
 
 72 
 
 14 
 
 74 
 
 12 
 
 76 
 
 9 
 
 78 
 
 7 
 
 2200 
 
 105 
 
 67 
 
 11 
 
 69 
 
 6 
 
 71 
 
 2 
 
 72 
 
 22 
 
 74 
 
 18 
 
 2100 
 
 100 
 
 64 
 
 10 
 
 66 
 
 3 
 
 67 
 
 21 
 
 69 
 
 15 
 
 71 
 
 4 
 
 2000 
 
 95 
 
 61 
 
 1 
 
 62 
 
 16 
 
 64 
 
 8 
 
 65 
 
 23 
 
 67 
 
 15 
 
 1900 
 
 90 
 
 57 
 
 20 
 
 59 
 
 9 
 
 60 
 
 23 
 
 62 
 
 12 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 1800 
 
 85 
 
 54 
 
 14 
 
 56 
 
 2 
 
 57 
 
 13 
 
 59 
 
 1 
 
 60 
 
 12 
 
 1700 
 
 80 
 
 51 
 
 9 
 
 52 
 
 19 
 
 54 
 
 4 
 
 55 
 
 13 
 
 56 
 
 23 
 
 1600 
 
 75 
 
 48 
 
 4 
 
 49 
 
 12 
 
 50 
 
 19 
 
 52 
 
 2 
 
 53 
 
 9 
 
 1500 
 
 70 
 
 44 
 
 23 
 
 46 
 
 4 
 
 47 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 15 
 
 49 
 
 20 
 
 1400 
 
 65 
 
 41 
 
 18 
 
 42 
 
 21 
 
 44 
 
 , , 
 
 45 
 
 3 
 
 46 
 
 6 
 
 1300 
 
 60 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 39 
 
 14 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 
 41 
 
 16 
 
 42 
 
 17 
 
 1200 
 
 55 
 
 35 
 
 8 
 
 36 
 
 7 
 
 37 
 
 6 
 
 38 
 
 5 
 
 39 
 
 4 
 
 1100 
 
 50 
 
 32 
 
 3 
 
 33 
 
 . . 
 
 33 
 
 20 
 
 34 
 
 17 
 
 35 
 
 14 
 
 1000 
 
 45 
 
 28 
 
 22 
 
 29 
 
 17 
 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 1 
 
 900 
 
 40 
 
 25 
 
 17 
 
 26 
 
 9 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 27 
 
 19 
 
 28 
 
 11 
 
 800 
 
 35 
 
 22 
 
 12 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 24 
 
 22 
 
 700 
 
 30 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 9 
 
 600 
 
 25 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 19 
 
 500 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 400 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 300 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 200 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 100 
 
 4i 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 80 
 
 81 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 70 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 2| 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 17 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 • • 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
304 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 663. The calculation as required for the weft of 
 the web is simply the multiplication of the shots on 
 the space measured by the breadth of the web, and 
 the division of the length of the thread thus found by 
 some suitable denominator of the yarn table — to as- 
 certain the quantity. The portion measured by the 
 English web glass is an aliquot part of an inch — 
 usually a quarter ; and by the Scotch glass the 
 200th part of 37 inches. There are therefore five 
 and four-tenths of the Scotch glass-measure in an 
 inch. And therefore the number of shots on an inch 
 by either count may be taken for the multiplier, 
 and the number of inches in the breadth of the 
 web for the multiplicand. This product is then to 
 be divided by some of the denominators in the yarn 
 table, to obtain the quantity of the yarn in the space 
 measured. But as the quantity of yarn for warp and 
 weft in even-wefted work is nearly the same, it is 
 better to take the difference in over or under-wefted 
 work, and add it to the sum, or substract it as it may 
 be, than to make calculations, in a small space, 
 which are liable to errors incident to fractional 
 numbers, &c. But the readiest way is to have re- 
 course to the tables. 
 
CALCULATIONS. 305 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 24 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 125 
 
 spy 
 
 9 
 
 hk. 
 
 4 
 
 spy. 
 10 
 
 hk. 
 
 7 
 
 spy. 
 11 
 
 hk. 
 
 10 
 
 spy. 
 12 
 
 hk. 
 
 13 
 
 spy. 
 
 13 
 
 hk 
 
 16 
 
 spy. 
 
 15 
 
 hk. 
 1 
 
 spy. 
 16 
 
 hk. 
 
 4 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 96 
 
 1]0 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13| 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16! 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 1 
 
 n 
 
 u 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 u 
 
 10 
 
 A 
 
 y) 
 
 1 7 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 l 
 
 L 
 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10| 
 
 0 
 
 11! 
 
 0 
 
 13~ 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 H 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 1 4 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6| 
 
 0 
 
 *1 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6! 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9! 
 
 H 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4| 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5! 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6* 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 H 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3! 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4! 
 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 1! 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2! 
 
 4 
 
 T 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 125 
 
 spy. 
 
 17 
 
 hk. 
 
 6 
 
 spy. 
 
 18 
 
 hk. 
 
 9 
 
 spy. 
 
 19 
 
 hk. 
 
 12 
 
 spy. 
 
 20 
 
 hk. 
 
 15 
 
 spy. 
 
 21 
 
 hk. 
 
 17 
 
 spy. 
 
 24 
 
 hk. 
 
 5 
 
 spy. 
 
 26 
 
 hk. 
 11 
 
 EUs. 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 16 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 8 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 17 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 12| 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 7! 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8! 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9! 
 
 0 
 
 10! 
 
 0 
 
 11! 
 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 n 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3! 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 X 
 
306 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 27 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on| 
 the Glass] 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 "IOC 
 
 125 
 
 spy. 
 i rv 
 
 10 
 
 hk. 
 
 7 
 
 spy. 
 1 1 
 
 hk. 
 
 1 0 
 
 13 
 
 spy. 
 
 13 
 
 hk. 
 
 0 
 
 spy. 
 14 
 
 hk. 
 
 6 
 
 spy. 
 
 15 
 
 hk. 
 
 1 1 
 
 11 
 
 spy. 
 16 
 
 hk. 
 17 
 
 spy. 
 lo 
 
 hk 
 
 4 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 1 rv 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 rv 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 rv 
 
 0 
 
 lo 
 
 5 
 
 1 / 
 
 rv 
 9 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 i rv 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 1 A 
 
 14 
 
 1 A 
 
 14 
 
 lb 
 
 Lb 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 rv 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 i rv 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 1 1 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 1 1 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 1 0 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 rv 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 i rv 
 
 10 
 
 rv 
 
 0 
 
 i rv 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 1 1 
 
 12 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 r» 
 0 
 
 i rv 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 A 
 
 14 
 
 rv 
 
 9 
 
 rv 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 rv 
 9 
 
 Q 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 f rv 
 
 50 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 1 0 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 lo 
 
 r* 
 O 
 
 5 
 
 r» 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 / 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 3 
 
 1 A 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 1 rv 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 er 
 O 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 r 
 O 
 
 15 
 
 32 
 
 O /"V 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 lo 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 6 
 
 1 /I 
 
 14 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 
 4* 
 
 / 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 lb 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 rv 
 
 y 
 
 0 
 
 Id 
 
 0 
 
 1 / 
 
 16 
 
 i rv 
 
 10 
 
 rv 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 1 / 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 D 
 
 1 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 rv 
 
 9 
 
 U 
 
 14 
 
 r» 
 
 u 
 
 
 rv 
 0 
 
 1 iy 
 1 / 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 O 
 
 4, 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 b 
 
 7 i 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 ? 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 5 f 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 y 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 ^5 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3| 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 1£ 
 
 *4 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 2| 
 
 4 
 
 3"! 
 
 Shots onl ir 
 the Glass! 10 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 125 
 
 spy. 
 
 19 
 
 hk. 
 
 10 
 
 spv. 
 
 20 
 
 hk. 
 
 15 
 
 spy. 
 
 22 
 
 hk. 
 2 
 
 spy. 
 
 23 
 
 hk. 
 
 8 
 
 spy. 
 
 24 
 
 hk. 
 
 13 
 
 spy. 
 
 27 
 
 hk. 
 
 6 
 
 spy. 
 
 29 
 
 hk. 
 
 17 
 
 E1K 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 23 
 
 9 
 
 23 
 
 13 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 28 
 
 14 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 21 
 
 IS 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 26 
 
 6 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 10 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 7i 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 61 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 5| 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 4 4 
 ^5 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 13| 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 31 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 91 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 2! 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6* 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8i 
 
 1! 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3i 
 
 0 
 
 Si 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 41 
 ^4 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
CALCULATIONS* 307 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 30 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 [shots oi 
 Ithe Glas 
 
 ! 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 11 
 
 io' 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 9' 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 15 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 7-L 
 
 ' 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 n 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 54 
 
 it 
 
 n 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 171 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 HI 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 13| 
 
 0 
 
 141 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5* 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 2f 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4| 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 5 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 U 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 21 
 
 13 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 11 
 
 26 
 
 0 
 
 27 
 
 9 
 
 30 
 
 7 
 
 33 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 24 
 
 17 
 
 26 
 
 7 
 
 29 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 17 
 
 
 110 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 22 
 
 16 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 26 
 
 13 
 
 29 
 
 5 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 0 
 
 24 
 
 6 
 
 26 
 
 11 
 
 
 90 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 to 
 
 50 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 39 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9/L 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 IO 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 °j 
 5 f 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 ** 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17| 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10| 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 n 
 if 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 41 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 & 
 
308 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 33 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. , 
 
 py- 
 
 hk. s 
 
 py- 
 
 hk. i 
 
 py- 
 
 hk. spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy- 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy- 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 ID 
 
 1 7 
 1 / 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 (£ 
 O 
 
 ID 
 
 15 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 A 
 K) 
 
 1 £ 
 ID 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 
 1 A 
 
 l*i 
 
 0 15 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 1 9 
 
 H 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 q 
 
 1 1 
 J 1 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 
 Q 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 1 9 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 K 
 □ 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 A 
 <1J 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 1 ft 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 K 
 O 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 16i 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 u 
 
 
 u 
 
 1 O 2 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 a 
 
 D 
 
 i 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 6| 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14| 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17| 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 5f 
 
 I 6 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13i 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16| 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 A 4 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 121 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 Q 1 
 
 Oj 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 5| 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 41 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 If 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2! 
 
 0 
 
 2| 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 A. 
 
 T> 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 25 
 
 13 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 28 
 
 12 
 
 30 
 
 4 
 
 33 
 
 8 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 23 
 
 9 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 26 
 
 0 
 
 27 
 
 9 
 
 29 
 
 0 
 
 32 
 
 2 
 
 35 
 
 2 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 21 
 
 10 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 15 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 26 
 
 11 
 
 29 
 
 7 
 
 32 
 
 4 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 19 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 26 
 
 13 
 
 29 
 
 5 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 21 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 26 
 
 6 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 8 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 9 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 ' 4 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 61 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5* 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 I 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 141 
 
 0 
 
 151 
 
 0 
 
 161 
 
 0 
 
 171 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 Si 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 111 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 141 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 2f 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 81 
 
 0 
 
 91 
 
 0 
 
 101 
 
 i! 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3| 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 S 
 
CALCULATIONS. 309 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 36 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. Ispy. 
 
 hk. spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 5 Py* 
 
 hk f 
 
 
 hk. Ispy. 
 
 hk. [spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 El Is 
 
 125 1 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 15 !22 
 
 10 
 
 24 
 
 6 
 
 ioo' 
 
 120 13 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 24 
 
 
 o 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 1 9 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 71 
 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 6# 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 *i 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 161 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 c; 
 
 iJ 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 171 
 
 4 
 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 101 
 
 n 
 
 o 
 
 A 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5* 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 if 
 
 1 
 
 J. 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 4 
 
 J 
 
 |Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 lik. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spv. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Klls. 
 
 125 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 27 
 
 14 
 
 29 
 
 9 
 
 31 
 
 5 
 
 33 
 
 0 
 
 36 
 
 8 
 
 39 
 
 17 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 25 
 
 0 
 
 26 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 6 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 12 
 
 35 
 
 0 
 
 38 
 
 6 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 26 
 
 0 
 
 27 
 
 9 
 
 29 
 
 0 
 
 32 
 
 2 
 
 35 
 
 3 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 
 26 
 
 7 
 
 29 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 17 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 : 
 
 23 
 
 14 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 28 
 
 14 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 16 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 I 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 3 | 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 131 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 2f 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 ?i 
 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 81 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 91 
 
 0 
 
 101 
 
 0 
 
 HI 
 
 l l 
 
 ' 1 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 o 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4* 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 
310 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 37 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. 
 19^ 
 
 1 /CO 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 1 
 
 1 o 
 
 hk. 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 spy. 
 
 17 
 
 hk. 
 
 15 
 
 spy. 
 
 19 
 
 hk. 
 1 1 
 
 spy. 
 
 21 
 
 hk. 
 
 7 
 
 spy. 
 
 23 
 
 hk. 
 
 4 
 
 spy. 
 25 
 
 hk. 
 
 o 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 1 90 
 
 1 <£U 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 o 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 ^ 
 1 o 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 24 
 
 0 
 
 96 
 
 1 1 o 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 0 
 
 1U 
 
 
 o 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 0 
 
 88 
 
 i on 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 ^ 
 IO 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 80 
 
 QO 
 
 1 0 
 1 u 
 
 K 
 o 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 0 
 1 u 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 o 
 
 72 
 
 Of 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 1 0 
 1 u 
 
 K 
 O 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 64 
 
 / U 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 u 
 
 q 
 
 o 
 u 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 o 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 o 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 56 
 
 AO 
 
 OU 
 
 a 
 u 
 
 1 O 
 
 7 
 i 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 1 D 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 48 
 
 £»0 
 
 O 
 
 1 3 
 
 J. O 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 AO 
 
 /I 
 
 1 0 
 
 L U 
 
 t; 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 ou 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 Q 
 
 o 
 
 Q 
 o 
 
 IO 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 24 
 
 90 
 
 9 
 
 t; 
 
 9 
 
 1 0 
 1 u 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 0 
 
 1 
 
 L 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 l 
 
 X 
 
 K 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 Q 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 7) 
 
 Q 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 1 U 2 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 61 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 5| 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15| 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4! 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 in 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 154 
 
 0 
 
 16| 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 31 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 81 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 2f 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4| 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 2 - 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6| 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 If 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2| 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3|r 
 
 4 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds 
 1 9^ 
 
 1 /CO 
 
 spy. 
 
 26 
 
 hk 
 
 14 
 
 spy. 
 28 
 
 hk. 
 
 10 
 
 spy. 
 
 30 
 
 hk. 
 
 6 
 
 spy. 
 
 32 
 
 hk. 
 
 0 
 
 spy. 
 
 33 
 
 hk 
 
 16 
 
 spy. 
 37 
 
 hk. 
 8 
 
 spv. 
 
 41 
 
 hk. 
 
 0 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 1 90 
 
 25 
 
 13 
 
 27 
 
 7 
 
 29 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 32 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 0 
 
 39 
 
 7 
 
 96 
 
 1 1 0 
 
 23 
 
 10 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 13 
 
 28 
 
 5 
 
 29 
 
 15 
 
 33 
 
 0 
 
 36 
 
 2 
 
 88 
 
 1 00 
 1 uu 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 15 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 25 
 
 12 
 
 27 
 
 0 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 32 
 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 QO 
 yu 
 
 19 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 15 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 27 
 
 0 
 
 29 
 
 10 
 
 72 
 
 £0 
 ou 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 13 
 
 24 
 
 0 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 64 
 
 U a 1 
 
 70 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 23 
 
 0 
 
 OU 
 
 AO 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 £»0 
 OU 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 AO 
 
 ^bU 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 
 30 
 ou 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 94 
 
 90 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 1 fi 
 
 1U 
 
 1 0 
 1 u 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 Q 
 
 q 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 7i 
 
 « 5 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 6l 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 5! 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 41 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 31 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 81 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10| 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 if 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4| 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 1 
 
 4 
 5 
 
CALCULATIONS. 311 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 40 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds 
 
 125 
 
 spy. 
 
 15 
 
 hk. 
 
 8 
 
 spy. 
 
 17 
 
 hk. 
 
 7 
 
 spy. 
 
 19 
 
 hk. 
 
 5 
 
 spy. 
 
 21 
 
 hk. 
 
 4 
 
 spy. 
 
 23 
 
 hk. 
 
 3 
 
 spy. 
 
 25 
 
 hk. 
 1 
 
 spv. 
 
 27 
 
 hk. 
 
 0 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 17 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 1 
 
 23 
 
 14 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 ]7 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 61 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 15| 
 
 0 
 
 171 
 
 ] 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 5| 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 4f 
 
 c 
 O 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15| 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 4* 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 if 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 125 
 
 Ts 
 
 hk. 
 
 17 
 
 spy 
 
 30 
 
 hk. 
 
 16 
 
 spy. 
 
 32 
 
 hk. 
 
 14 
 
 spy. 
 
 34 
 
 hk. 
 
 13 
 
 spy. 
 36 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 40 
 
 hk. 
 
 9 
 
 spy. 
 
 44 
 
 hk. 
 
 7 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 27 
 
 14 
 
 29 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 9 
 
 33 
 
 6 
 
 35 
 
 
 38 
 
 16 
 
 42 
 
 11 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 25 
 
 8 
 
 27 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 32 
 
 ? 
 
 35 
 
 12 
 
 39 
 
 1 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 12 
 
 26 
 
 4 
 
 27 
 
 14 
 
 29 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 7 
 
 35 
 
 9 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 26 
 
 7 
 
 29 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 17 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 
 25 
 
 17 
 
 28 
 
 7 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 12 
 
 24 
 
 15 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 7} 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 6| 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 5| 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4| 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 16| 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17| 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10| 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 1| 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 41 
 
 0 
 
 4^r 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 61 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
312 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 46 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 
 Lilt- VJlrtoB 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 | 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 'spy. 
 
 hk. spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. ' 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 17 
 
 22 
 
 3 24 
 
 7 
 
 26 
 
 11 
 
 28 
 
 15 31 
 
 1 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 21 
 
 O 
 
 9Q 
 46 
 
 8 25 
 
 10 
 
 27 
 
 12 '29 
 
 15 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 19 
 
 Q 
 
 91 
 
 8 |23 
 
 8 25 
 
 7 
 
 97 
 
 6 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 1 ^ 
 1 O 
 
 1 Q 
 
 1 y 
 
 Q 
 
 91 
 
 5 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 9/1 
 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 1 7 
 
 1 7 
 1 / 
 
 1 ft 
 
 1 Q 
 
 3 20 
 
 14 
 
 99 
 
 6 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 ]4 
 
 e i> 
 
 ID 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 7 
 
 i 
 
 lo 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 1 Q 
 
 16 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 1 Q 
 
 1 9 
 1 4 
 
 
 l « 
 
 ID 
 
 l 
 
 Q 
 o 
 
 1 7 
 
 7 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 1 9 
 
 J 4, 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 1 Q 
 la 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 JL 
 
 J 6 
 
 1 
 
 
 16 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 1 (K 
 
 Q 
 
 1 zL 
 1* 
 
 1 O 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 1 0 
 
 1 9 
 
 8 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 H 
 1 
 
 ID 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 
 Q 
 
 Zf 
 
 17 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 EC 
 D 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 l n 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 7] 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 65 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 51 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 A 4 
 ^5 
 
 K 
 *j 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 HI 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16| 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 1 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 7\ 
 
 0 
 
 8| 
 
 0 
 
 91 
 
 0 
 
 10| 
 
 0 
 
 m 
 
 0 
 
 12| 
 
 0 
 
 13| 
 
 0 2 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 6| 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 1 3 
 1| 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4i 
 
 4 
 5 
 
 Shots on 
 th€? GIciss 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spv. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 33 
 
 3 
 
 35 
 
 9 
 
 37 
 
 13 
 
 39 
 
 17 
 
 42 
 
 3 
 
 46 
 
 11 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 31 
 
 VI 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 36 
 
 4 
 
 38 
 
 6 
 
 40 
 
 8 
 
 44 
 
 14 
 
 49 
 
 0 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 29 
 
 5 
 
 31 
 
 4 
 
 33 
 
 3 
 
 35 
 
 3 
 
 37 
 
 2 
 
 41 
 
 1 
 
 44 
 
 16 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 26 
 
 11 
 
 28 
 
 7 
 
 30 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 17 
 
 33 
 
 13 
 
 37 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 27 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 14 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 13 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 13 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 26 
 
 17 
 
 29 
 
 15 
 
 32 
 
 12 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 26 
 
 2 
 
 28 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 9 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 fi 2 
 o« 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 5| 
 
 n 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 4! 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 14| 
 
 0 
 
 15| 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2f 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 91 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 Hi 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 If 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6| 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 313 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 48 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots or 
 the Glas 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 ! ii 
 
 12 
 
 1 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 125 
 
 spy. 
 
 18 
 
 hk. 
 
 9 
 
 spy. 
 
 20 
 
 hk. 
 
 15 
 
 spy. 
 
 23 
 
 hk. 
 3 
 
 spy. 
 
 25 
 
 hk. 
 
 8 
 
 spy. 
 
 27 
 
 hk. 
 
 14 
 
 .spy. 
 30 
 
 hk. 
 2 
 
 spy. 
 
 32 
 
 hk. 
 
 7 
 
 Ells. 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 26 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 16 
 
 31 
 
 2 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 26 
 
 9 
 
 28 
 
 9 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 17 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 19 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 13 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 7j 
 
 8 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 q 
 o 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 D 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 
 
 x 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 1 7 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 61 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 I 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 5| 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 *i 
 
 if 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3| 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 2| 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8| 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 if 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 4 
 I 
 
 Shots on 
 
 the folate 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 125 
 
 spy. 
 
 34 
 
 hk. 
 
 13 
 
 spy. 
 
 37 
 
 hk. 
 
 0 
 
 spy. 
 
 39 
 
 hk. 
 
 6 
 
 spy. 
 41 
 
 hk. 
 
 12 
 
 spy. 
 44 
 
 hk. 
 
 0 
 
 spy. 
 48 
 
 hk. 
 11 
 
 spy. 
 
 53 
 
 hk. 
 
 4 
 
 Ells. J 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 33 
 
 6 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 37 
 
 14 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 42 
 
 4 
 
 46 
 
 12 
 
 51 
 
 2 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 32 
 
 11 
 
 34 
 
 11 
 
 36 
 
 12 
 
 38 
 
 12 
 
 42 
 
 14 
 
 46 
 
 15 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 27 
 
 14 
 
 29 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 9 
 
 33 
 
 6 
 
 35 
 
 3 
 
 38 
 
 16 
 
 42 
 
 10 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 25 
 
 0 
 
 26 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 12 
 
 35 
 
 0 
 
 38 
 
 6 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 23 
 
 13 
 
 25 
 
 
 26 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 13 
 
 22 
 
 o 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 11 
 
 27 
 
 4 
 
 29 
 
 14 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 17 120 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 121 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 6| 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 A 4 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 I 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 02 
 
 A s 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 I 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 1\ 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 Y 
 
314 TREATISE ON WEAVING, 
 
 WEFT FOR CLOTH, 54 INCHES WIDE. 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 23 
 
 8* 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 28 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 5 
 
 33 
 
 15 
 
 36 
 
 8' 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 22 
 
 9 
 
 25 
 
 0 
 
 27 
 
 9 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 32 
 
 9 
 
 35 
 
 0 
 
 96 
 
 110 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 27 
 
 9 
 
 29 
 
 14 
 
 32 
 
 2 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 17 
 
 25 
 
 0 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 3 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 9 
 
 24 
 
 7 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 7i 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 6# 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5 f 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 71 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10| 
 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 41 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 •J 
 
 Shots on 
 the Glass 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 
 Yds. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spv. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy- 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 spy. 
 
 hk. 
 
 Ells. 
 
 125 
 
 39 
 
 1 
 
 41 
 
 12 
 
 44 
 
 5 
 
 46 
 
 16 
 
 49 
 
 9 
 
 54 
 
 12 
 
 59 
 
 16 
 
 100 
 
 120 
 
 37 
 
 9 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 42 
 
 9 
 
 45 
 
 0 
 
 47 
 
 9 
 
 52 
 
 9 
 
 57 
 
 9 
 
 96 
 
 ] 10 
 
 34 
 
 7 
 
 36 
 
 l l 
 
 38 
 
 17 
 
 41 
 
 5 
 
 43 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 52 
 
 13 
 
 88 
 
 100 
 
 31 
 
 5 
 
 33 
 
 6 
 
 35 
 
 
 37 
 
 9 
 
 39 
 
 11 
 
 43 
 
 14 
 
 47 
 
 17 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 o 
 
 31 
 
 16 
 
 33 
 
 14 
 
 35 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 7 
 
 43 
 
 2 
 
 72 
 
 80 
 
 25 
 
 0 
 
 26 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 6 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 12 
 
 35 
 
 0 
 
 38 
 
 6 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 23 
 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 14 
 
 26 
 
 5 
 
 27 
 
 13 
 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 60 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 9 
 
 23 
 
 13 
 
 26 
 
 4 
 
 28 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 10 < 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 4 :f 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 3.} 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 ■i 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 51 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6| 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 81 
 
 7 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 315 
 
 PRICES OF COTTON YARN. 
 
 MR. THOMAS HOULDSWORTH'S LIST, 
 
 MANCHESTER. 
 
 NET CASH PRICES. 
 
 NO. 
 
 SINGLE YARN OE TWIST. 
 
 DOUBLED YARN OR THREAD. 
 
 
 5. 
 
 d. 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 120 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 130 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 140 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 150 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 160 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 170 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 180 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 190 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 200 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 210 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 220 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 230 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 240 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 3 
 
 250 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 280 
 
 37 
 
 0 
 
 28 
 
 0 
 
 300 
 
 57 
 
 0 
 
 37 
 
 0 
 
 320 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 0 
 
 350 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 0 
 
 400 
 
 
 
 120 
 
 0 
 
 450 
 
 
 
 227 
 
 0 
 
316 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 PRICES OF COTTON YARNS, 
 GLASGOW. 
 
 The following List is given as an average of the Net Cash Prices of 
 Yarns in the Glasgow market. 
 
 NO. 
 
 BEST SECOND WEFT. 
 
 BEST SECOND WARP. 
 
 DOUBLED YARN. 
 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 S. 
 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9| 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 
 0i 
 
 50 
 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 
 70 
 
 
 3| 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 7 
 
 80 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 
 10 
 
 90 
 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 100 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 110 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 120 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 130 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 140 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 150 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 160 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 170 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 180 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 190 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 200 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 210 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 220 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 230 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 317 
 
 PRICES OF LINEN YARN. 
 
 Messrs. BAXTER, BROTHERS & Co.'s LIST, 
 
 DUNDEE. 
 
 REEL. 
 
 120 Threads of 2£ Yards = 300 Yards = 1 Lea. 
 
 12 Leas = 3,600^ = 1 Hank. 
 
 50 Hanks = 180,000 =3 Bundles. 
 
 Prices quoted Bundle of 60,000 Yards. 
 
 Discount 5 & cent, for Cash. 
 
 PATENT WET SPUN LINE YARNS. 
 
 Leas or 
 Cuts 
 in the 
 Pound. 
 
 GREY. 
 
 BLEACHED. 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Half Bleach. 
 
 Full Bleach. 
 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 S. 
 
 d 
 
 5. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 d. 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 22 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 28 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 35 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 45 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 55 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 60 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 . 7 
 
 3 
 
 65 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 75 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 85 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 90 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 100 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 110 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 120 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
318 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 Messrs. Baxter, Brothers & Co.'s List continued. 
 
 DRY SPUN LINE YARNS. 
 
 FIRST QUALITY. 
 
 GREY. 
 
 Dark. 
 
 S. d 
 
 8 10 
 8 6 
 8 3 
 8 0 
 7 8 
 7 6 
 
 Yellow. 
 
 9 0 
 
 8 8 
 8 5 
 
 BLEACHED. 
 
 Half Full 
 cream. Bleach< Bleach. 
 
 SECOND QUALITY. 
 
 GREY. 
 
 BLEACHED. 
 
 Dark 
 
 s. d. 
 
 8 6 
 8 2 
 710 
 7 8 
 7 4 
 
 Yellow. Cream 
 
 Half 
 Bleach 
 
 Full 
 Bleach 
 
 DRY SPUN TOW YARNS. 
 
 Leas. 
 
 FIRST QUALITY, 
 
 GREY. 
 
 S. d. 
 
 2, 2| 
 
 
 
 3,4 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 BLEACHED. 
 
 Half Full 
 Cream. Bleach. Bleach. 
 
 SECOND QUALITY. 
 
 BLEACHED. 
 
 GREY 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Half Full 
 Bleach. Bleach 
 
CALCULATIONS. 
 
 319 
 
 The prices of Sailcloth and Canvass Yarns run 
 from about 8d. to 4d. per pound, according to the 
 quality. 
 
 Navy Canvass is made wholly of Flax — both warp 
 and weft. The grist of the warp is from three to 
 nine pounds in the spyndle, according to the kind of 
 canvass which is intended to be made with it, and 
 is sold by the Gourock Company at 8d. per pound. 
 The weft varies likewise with the fabric from ten 
 to twenty-four pounds in the spyndle, and may be 
 bought for 7id. 
 
 Mercantile Canvass is made of Flax warp, but 
 with Tow weft. The weft will be about 3d. per 
 pound. 
 
 Inferior descriptions of Canvass are made with 
 both warp and weft of Tow, and the price may be 
 stated at about 4d. per pound. 
 
320 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 664* Warping is the making of the webs or 
 warps for being woven, and the process consists in 
 winding the yarn so as to form the warp of the 
 length and breadth for the required web, in the best 
 manner to suit the weaver for weaving it into 
 cloth. Warping, therefore, precedes the weaving, 
 in the same manner as the spinning of the yarn 
 must precede the warping. 
 
 Fig. 47. Warping Mill. 
 
 66o. Warping for hand loom work is effected 
 on a reel called the warping mill, as seen in Fig. 
 47th; and as the yarn is usually wound on the hank 
 in coming from the spinner, especially fine yarns, it 
 must be unwound again on bobbins for the warper. 
 
WARPING. 
 
 321 
 
 666. This operation of bobbin winding is done 
 by women, on a wheel such as that represented for 
 pirn winding, and is indeed the same operation, ex- 
 cept that yarn for fine cotton goods is generally 
 slightly starched with a little flour, after being 
 boiled, to strengthen it, and wound on bobbins with 
 a certain quantity on each — usually five or six hanks. 
 A certain number of bobbins, from 80 to ISO per- 
 haps, is given to the warper to form the warp, with 
 a ticket specifying the length of the web in ells, 
 and the breadth in porters. 
 
 667. The first object of the warper is to calculate 
 the number of turns of his mill that will be necessary 
 to make the length and breadth of the web, as re- 
 quired from the given number of bobbins. This is a 
 very simple matter. The number of turns to make 
 the length of the web is found by dividing it by the 
 circumference of the reel or mill, which is generally 
 five ells in Scotland — each ell five quarters, the mea- 
 sure by which the weaver is there paid for his work ; 
 and as the web is generally 100 ells, twenty turns 
 in this case will give the required length of piece 
 which is to be woven ; but there must be an allow- 
 ance for a thrumb, and a few inches as a neck for 
 tying up the web — about three-fourths of a yard in 
 
 all — and an equivalent portion of a turn must be • 
 given for these purposes. Then the number of re- 
 petitions of this length to form the breadth of the 
 web will be as the number of threads in this section 
 to the number required for the whole breadth. But, 
 as each bobbin makes two threads of warp, when the 
 mill has been returned on the first repetition of the 
 
 z 
 
322 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 length, the calculation is performed in splitfuls. 
 Thus, for example, supposing the breadth of the 
 web eighty-five porters and the number of bobbins 
 100— then 85 X 20 = 1700 + 100 = 17 is the 
 number of repetitions or turns and returns, which 
 are called races, necessary to make this breadth of 
 web. 
 
 668. The warper then commences the operation 
 of warping by putting the bobbins on skewers in a 
 frame called the bank, marked A, which is made to 
 receive the bobbins in rows placed above each other 
 in parallel lines, — and is usually formed in the seg- 
 ment of a circle, with the concave side towards 
 the mill, so as to allow the bobbins to be unwound 
 freely at right angles to the direction in which 
 the threads are taken from them. The yarn must 
 be warped or wound on the mill in such a man- 
 ner as to preserve the parallel direction of the 
 threads throughout for the weaver. This is a mat- 
 ter of essential importance ; and for that purpose, 
 the lease of the yarn must be preserved, as the only 
 key by which the weaver can prevent the entangle- 
 ment of the threads, till the yarn is drawn through 
 the heddles for weaving. The heck is the means 
 by which the lease is formed ; and performs the 
 function of a sort of heddles to the warper. It con- 
 sists of two rows of steel needle pins, so placed in a 
 frame that the rows may be raised or sunk sepa- 
 rately; and as the threads from the bobbins are 
 drawn through the eyes alternately of each row 
 successively, one thread through each needle eye — 
 the lease is formed by raising and reversing either of 
 
WARPING. 
 
 323 
 
 the heck frames. There must of course be as many 
 needles in the heck as there are bobbins or runners 
 in the bank. 
 
 669. The yarn, thus drawn through the heck 
 pins, is knotted together, and put on the upper pin a, 
 of the mill. The mill is then turned, till the upper 
 lease pins b, are nearly opposite the heck, when the 
 warper raises one of the heck leaves, and introduces 
 the fore finger of the left hand to preserve the shed 
 till he has reversed the lease by raising that half 
 which was previously down, and sinking the other 
 to its former level. He then secures it in a similar 
 manner with the thumb of the same hand, and 
 carefully transfers both sheds to the two lease pins b, 
 by which they are preserved during the subsequent 
 operations. 
 
 670. But as the yarn must be wound on the 
 weaver's beam after the warper has done with it, 
 he introduces an arrangement in the yarn to faci- 
 litate that operation ; that is, he forms the threads 
 into what is called pins or half gangs, so that the 
 weaver, in knowing the number of pins in his web, 
 can thereby spread it equally in the beaming to the 
 required breadth, by putting each pin into a separate 
 tooth of a kind of coarse reed like a comb called a 
 ravel, which has a corresponding number of teeth to 
 that of the pins for the required breadth of web. 
 
 671. This arrangement of the yarn into pins is 
 effected in warping by dividing the threads equally 
 into a certain number of portions, each of which 
 forms a half gang. These portions are kept sepa- 
 rated, by being put individually between two small 
 
324 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 wooden pullies ; a row of which are placed for that 
 purpose behind the heck towards the mill, with one 
 half gang between each pulley. 
 
 672. The warper then commences to wind the 
 yarn on the mill by turning the trundle with which 
 it is connected with his left hand ; and thus, though 
 the yarn is led on the mill through the heck from 
 the pullies, in half gangs run together in the aggre- 
 gate, yet they afterwards preserve their individu- 
 ality, and open out freely in the beaming. 
 
 673. But as the circumference of the mill is the 
 measure by which the length of the web is ascer- 
 tained, it must be prevented as much as possible 
 from increasing by the winding on of the web ; and 
 that is effected by coiling it spirally from top to 
 bottom of the reel or mill. 
 
 674. This uniform distribution of the yarn in 
 this manner over the surface of the mill is accom- 
 plished by the motion of the heck ; and for this 
 purpose it is made to slide up and down on its 
 standard or post, by being suspended from a cord 
 which is attached to the centre pivot or spindle of 
 the mill A. When the mill is turned round, it de- 
 scends by its own gravity ; and when a sufficient 
 number of turns are taken to make the length of 
 the web, the warper forms the half gangs into a 
 lease, and transfers them to the lower lease pins. 
 He then reverses the motion of the mill, till he has 
 got the same length run back again, and the heck of 
 course is wound up by the cord on the spindle, as 
 the mill is turned round, in the same manner as it 
 descended. 
 
WARPING. 
 
 325 
 
 6J5. The yarn is thus coiled spirally on the 
 mill ; but, as it is not to be run in ridges, it must 
 not be always run in exactly the same tract. It is 
 therefore to be run so as to spread the warp like a 
 band over the mill ; and this is done by altering the 
 height of the heck with respect to the several races. 
 For this purpose the heck is hung with a cord over 
 a pulley. The cord is attached to a spindle or axle, 
 which is furnished with a ratchet wheel, and, as the 
 heck is to be raised or lowered, a tooth or so of 
 the wheel is to be taken accordingly, and secured 
 with a click which is attached for that purpose. 
 The edge of the ratchet wheel is seen at g> and the 
 pulley from which the heck is suspended — at n. 
 
 676. When the required number of races have 
 been run to make the breadth of the web, the two 
 leases are secured by being firmly tied with a cord. 
 The thread lease at the top is the beginning of the 
 web, and the half gang lease at the bottom is the 
 end of the web. The warper, therefore, begins to 
 take the web off at the top, and, as he draws it off, 
 coils it into a succession of loose loops like a chain. 
 Hence the web is called a chain in coming from the 
 warper. 
 
 677* I n warping stripes or ginghams, the several 
 variable stripes composing the pattern must be mul- 
 tiplied into the length of the web to get the quantity 
 of yarn for each, just as it were a separate web. 
 Thus, supposing in a gingham 100 ells long there 
 are 10 porters red, 8 porters 10 splits blue, 12 por- 
 ters orange, and 30 porters white, the yarn for each 
 individual stripe is to be found separately, and the 
 
326 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING, 
 
 quantities of the several stripes composing the pat- 
 tern added together make the whole. 
 
 100 
 10 red. 
 
 302.4)1000.0(3 spyndles. 
 9072 
 
 168)928(5 hanks. 
 840 
 
 24)88(3 skeins. 
 72 
 
 100 
 
 12 orange. 
 
 302.4)1200.0(3 spyndles. 
 9072 
 
 168)2928(17 hanks. 
 168 
 
 1248 
 1176 
 
 24)72(3 skeins. 
 72 
 
 100 
 
 8 10 blue. 
 
 302.4)850.0(2 spyndles. 
 6048 
 
 168)2452(14 hanks. 
 168 
 
 772 
 672 
 
 24)100(4 skeins. 
 96 
 
 100 
 
 30 white. 
 
 302.4)3000.0(9 spyndles 
 27216 
 
 168)2784(16 hanks. 
 168 
 
 1104 
 1008 
 
 24)96(4 skeins. 
 96 
 
 The several quantities thus are : — 
 
 Spyndles; Hanks. Skeins. 
 
 3 5 3 Red. 
 
 2 14 4 Blue. 
 
 3 17 3 Orange. 
 9 16 4 White. 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 0 in all. 
 
WARPING. 
 
 678. The web after it comes from the warper is 
 usually to be starched, but it is returned to the 
 weaver in the same manner as the warper made it 
 up. The weaver's business is then to beam it, 
 that is to wind it on the beam at the proper width, 
 and sufficiently firm to withstand the tension of weav- 
 ing. This operation is usually done by a person 
 called a beamer, who makes a business of it, in a 
 room which he keeps for the purpose. The beamer 
 commences the operation by winding the yarn like 
 a rope, on a winch friction roller, beginning with 
 the neck of the web. When this is done, he takes 
 the end of the web which is outwards, and puts the 
 beam shaft through the loop formed there by the 
 doubling of the half gangs. He then spreads the 
 yarn on the shaft, and puts each individual half 
 gang into a separate tooth of a kind of coarse reed 
 like a long comb, called a ravel. The ravel is made 
 to consist of two parts, which clasp together to faci- 
 litate the operation, — the comb-like part with the 
 teeth exposed, over the ends of which the half gangs 
 are entered, and the sheath which encloses the ends 
 so as to prevent the half gangs from coming out 
 in the beaming. The shaft is put in the groove of 
 the beam. The beam is put into a frame at the end 
 of the room opposite the friction roller on which the 
 web is wound. The beam is then attached to a 
 winch handle in the frame, and turned round, till the 
 web is wound on it from the roller at the other end 
 of the room. The tension of the web on the beam 
 is regulated by the weight as hung on the friction 
 roller 5 and to prevent the selvage half gangs from 
 
328 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 slipping down in the weaving, the yarn is built on 
 the beam, with the selvages sloping inwards. This 
 is managed by holding the ravel more or less obli- 
 quely in the beaming, so as to narrow the breadth of 
 the web a little as the operation proceeds. For this 
 purpose the ravel is hung, and a person stands at 
 each side of the web, to guide or build the selvage, 
 as the beam is being turned, 
 
 679. The ravel is, therefore, the instrument by 
 which the web is beamed at the proper width, and 
 the number of half gangs in the width of the web is 
 the guide by which the beamer adapts the ravel to 
 the required width. The half gangs in the web are 
 therefore entered in the weaver's ticket, and the 
 beamer has a variety of ravels, of different degrees 
 of fineness, to suit the work. The ravels are num- 
 bered according to the teeth, or scores of teeth, in 
 37 inches. When, therefore, the web is of any 
 other width than 37 inches or yard, the half gangs 
 or pins, multiplied by 16, the nails in the yard, and 
 divided by the nails in the breadth, will give the 
 number of the ravel required for beaming it. Thus, 
 if the web is 19 nails broad, with 236 half gangs, or 
 pins, as they are frequently called — the ravel re- 
 quired will be a 9 score and 18 pins — because 236 x 
 16 = 3776 -r- 19 = 198 if = 9 score and 18 pins, 
 besides the fraction, which is of no value here. 
 
 680. In manufacturing by machinery, this ope- 
 ration of beaming is entirely avoided, and that of 
 warping is much simplified. The yarn in power 
 loom weaving is taken directly from the spinner, and 
 reeled by the winders, and from them to the warpers. 
 
MANAGEMENT. 
 
 329 
 
 The warper winds it in large quantities on a beam 
 or reel, which is taken directly to the dressing ma- 
 chine. It is advantageous to have few changes of fa- 
 brics in weaving by power, and certain descriptions 
 of goods are made continuously. There is thus 
 little calculation required in warping for it, and little 
 variety in the operation. 
 
 681. In the management of men so as to turn 
 their talent and energy to the most advantage, the 
 means for doing so must effect their purpose 
 through the instrumentality of the will. The grand 
 distinction between a leading and a forcing direc- 
 tion in the management of people should never be 
 lost sight of, as the consequences, as affecting both 
 parties, are of the utmost importance. According 
 to the manner of proceeding by the former method, 
 the power of both parties is combined so as to act 
 with the utmost effect for the advantage of both. 
 But in the latter case, so far as the object is effected 
 at all, it is done in spite of the instrumentality of 
 the individuals acted on, and, in such a case, is al- 
 ways attended with some reaction which, in so far 
 as it exists, counteracts the controlling power. 
 
 682. The art of directing people, so far as it is 
 an art at all, consists in securing their confidence 
 and rendering the discharge of their duties as 
 pleasurable to them as possible. A good practical 
 knowledge of the business in question is indispen- 
 sable in effecting these results. But as the implicit 
 acquiescence by the governed in the conduct of the 
 
 2 a 
 
330 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 governing party rests on the conviction of their 
 being dealt with in the spirit of truth and justice, 
 intelligence without moral integrity can never fully 
 secure the supremacy of the will. 
 
 683. Truth is to the moral nature of man what 
 gravitation is to the physical. It secures the sta- 
 bility of his social relationships — and wherever it is 
 lacking, in whatever degree, confidence in their 
 stability is proportionally weakened ; and both par- 
 ties betake themselves to shifts in self-defence in the 
 spirit of destructive selfishness. Artificial unions, 
 strikes respecting wages, and eye-service giving, 
 have their origin in violations of these principles; 
 and their effects are nearly equally injurious to both 
 parties. 
 
 684. In a population so variously constituted as 
 ours, made up, indeed, of elements jn very different 
 stages of improvement, as for example in the inter- 
 mixture of the Irish with the Scotch, and of the 
 Irish with the English, the character of the more 
 improved must be deteriorated ; and the effect, ac- 
 cordingly, has been prejudicial to the habits and 
 character of both the Scotch and English working 
 people. Degradation, indeed, cannot be long sus- 
 tained by any people without debasing their charac- 
 ter. But this state of the population has given a 
 sort of countenance to a coarse coercive system of 
 control which seems more or less to taint the sys- 
 tem of factory management, arising in some mea- 
 sure from the difficulty in discriminating individual 
 character in otherwise dealing with it ; and perhaps 
 
MANAGEMENT. 
 
 331 
 
 such a state of society where, as with us, labour 
 generally exceeds the demand for it, has a tendency 
 to beget an indifference to its improvement, and it 
 becomes treated as a state of things in necessary 
 association together. 
 
 685. Mankind, in the main, have more sagacity 
 and instinctive perception of character, and above all 
 a greater capability of improvement than they are 
 commonly believed to possess. But, indeed, an exten- 
 sive perception of purpose is not a party accom- 
 plishment. In the keenness of the struggle for the 
 possession of the immediate object of pursuit, the 
 ulterior purpose of all actions seems to be almost 
 wholly overlooked — namely, the individual cultiva- 
 tion of the faculties in society — and the consideration 
 of the intercourse as taking place in every relation- 
 ship among mankind, as the means for effecting that 
 purpose — primarily or more remotely, in so far as 
 they immediately affect the elements from which 
 improvement derives its growth, or originate the 
 power for preserving and enjoying them. 
 
 686. All the action of social life, therefore, how- 
 ever directed, tends to the development and im- 
 provement of individual character, so as to fit it for 
 the efficient discharge of the duties of life ; and that 
 system is the best which enables the individual under 
 its influence the most effectually to acquire the 
 power of self-government, in connexion with the 
 knowledge of his true relationship in society. 
 
 687. The duties of life are various, and the 
 ability as given to discharge them is no less various. 
 
332 
 
 TREATISE ON WEAVING. 
 
 But talent is not only various as possessed by dif- 
 ferent individuals, but even by the same individuals 
 at different times, dependent on education as well 
 as the disposition to exercise it, and other circum- 
 stances: and the manifestation of it again is still 
 more various — by the mode of presenting it. 
 
 688. Few individuals seem to be what they 
 really are, without alluding to intentional disguise. 
 Some invariably act below themselves from the pe- 
 culiarity of their mental constitution, and although 
 capable of great improvement and actually making 
 great advances, are apt to be misunderstood, as 
 they are solicitous about that chiefly which has not 
 been gained. They have little concern about ap- 
 pearances. Superficial and casual observers are 
 liable to make great mistakes in their estimation of 
 such a character. They proceed on the presumption 
 that the most pains is taken with that which is most 
 seen, and for the sake of appearance ; and accord- 
 ingly, a character the reverse of this is generally 
 over-estimated. The buoyant self-satisfied presen- 
 tation of mind, with a capacity, as is generally the 
 case, adapted for seizing on individual incidents only, 
 is generally mistaken, in the favourable estimation 
 of it, for a manifestation of character indicating 
 considerable mental power. It may amount to cle- 
 verness ; but it ends there. Such characters, more 
 or less marked, are met with in the every-day inter- 
 course of life, among the educated and uneducated 
 classes of society. All are useful in their relative 
 spheres ; and in applying them aright in almost 
 
MANAGEMENT. 
 
 333 
 
 any business, even those who act from enlightened 
 and conscientious motives, have frequent occasion 
 to regret their inability sufficiently to discriminate 
 character, so as to direct it so well as they other- 
 wise might, to the duties for which it is more espe- 
 cially fitted. 
 
DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 INDEX TO THE PLATES. 
 
 The forty-seven Wood Engravings require little special notice. 
 
 The 4th and 9th Figures are sections of the old hand loom, as 
 it was used before the invention of the fly shuttle ; and Figs. 
 10th and 11th are its shuttle and lathe. 
 
 The Figures from 14 to 20 refer to the hand loom, as fitted 
 for working with the fly shuttle. Fig. 18th is a view of the fly 
 shuttle as seen from the under side. The roller at each end is 
 for the purpose of diminishing the friction of the shuttle in 
 traversing the web, and, that it may turn freely, it is mounted 
 on centre screws. The roller should barely project from the 
 under side. On the upper side it is not seen at all, as the mor- 
 tice in which it is set is not run quite through the shuttle ; but 
 as near it as will merely leave a whole surface, that the roller 
 may be as large in diameter as possible for the shuttle. 
 
 Figs. 14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th, represent different forms of 
 drivers. The first and third are for heavy work, and the second 
 and fourth for light. Fig. 19th is a transverse section taken im- 
 mediately in front of the lathe, of the common hand loom in its 
 best state as fitted for weaving light work, and Fig. 20th is a 
 lateral section taken near the middle of the loom. 
 
 Fig. 22nd is an end elevation of an iron loom for hand weaving. 
 There are many iron looms in use in the trade, but chiefly in 
 factories ; and notwithstanding that the material is unquestion- 
 ably better than wood for a loom, the hand weavers do not in 
 general seem to be fully satisfied with them. Iron looms, as 
 they are generally made, are not sufficiently convenient for 
 different weavers to suit different work, or their various habits 
 of working it. 
 
 There are three things that especially require to be attended 
 to in making the loom for hand weaving so as to fit the weaver, 
 and these are — 
 
 1st, — That the bearings for the lathe and the heddles be made 
 
DESCRIPTIVE INDEX TO THE TLATES. 
 
 335 
 
 that they may be easily shifted to any suitable distance from 
 the fell, according as the fabric may require it in working. 
 
 2d, — That the loom may admit of any suitable length of 
 stretch, and the yarn beam be easily adapted to any proper level 
 in working ; and, 
 
 3d, — That the treadles be easily fitted to the level of any 
 weaver's feet in sitting on his seat in the loom, and the seat 
 easily adapted to suit the level of the hand in working the lathe 
 and throwing the shuttle. 
 
 With regard to the placing of the lathe, it will be observed from 
 Fig. 22nd that the socket in which the gudgeon of the rocking 
 tree rests is made to slide in a slit in the bracket by which it is 
 supported from the post of the loom, and fixed, at the required 
 place where the lathe is intended to work, with a nut. The 
 socket is, therefore, screwed at its lower end, and has a shoulder 
 at the top, above the bracket by which it rests on the bearing, 
 and is thus jammed by the nut, which acts upon it on the under 
 side. 
 
 The yarn beam is supported on side levers, in which there 
 are several notches to suit any proper length of stretch ; and 
 the level of the beam is adjusted by pinching screws — one for 
 each side, which runs through the framing and supports its 
 respective side lever. 
 
 The treadle brackets are bolted to the lower bar, and rise 
 behind the weaver so as to support the treadles at any level that 
 any weaver may require to have them in working ; — or, for very 
 heavy work, the treadles may be reversed by bolting the brackets 
 to the lower back bar. 
 
 Fig. 34th is a representation of a contrivance for disengaging 
 the yarn beam in weaving heavy goods, such as sail-cloth, where 
 the pace is not used, and with little trouble to the weaver. The 
 long lever d which acts on the yarn beam is so placed as to be 
 convenient to the hand in turning the cloth beam, and may be 
 kept in gear by a spring, weight, or click, acted on by the foot 
 or otherwise. 
 
336 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 PLATES I. XIX. XX. 
 PLAN OF A WEAVING FACTORY. 
 
 Plate I. is the plan of a factory in which the looms are ar- 
 ranged with twelve in the breadth of the shed or house, with 
 the shafting in relation to the spaces as required by the looms. 
 
 Plates XIX. and XX. are supplementary to a plan in which 
 the looms are arranged with eight in the breadth, for the pur- 
 pose of showing the relationship of the looms to the gearing. 
 
 Plate XX. is a portion of this plan, and Plate XIX. is a side 
 elevation of that portion as taken from the intermediate passage 
 opposite the side wall of the shed or factory. 
 
 The shed or factory both in Plate I. and the supplementary 
 Plates is lighted from the roof. 
 
 PLATES II. III. IV. 
 CRANK DRESSING MACHINE. 
 
 The Crank Dressing Machine is presented in three Plates, a 
 Plan in Plate II., and the two reverse side views in Plates III. 
 and IV. All the corresponding parts referred to in the three 
 plates are marked by the same letters. 
 
 The Machine Frame is marked, - - - A A 
 
 The Warp, cc 
 
 in the act of being dressed, extending from the 
 
 Reels, - - - - - _ _ - oo 
 on which it is taken to the machine to be wound on the 
 
 Beam, _ v 
 
 in a dressed state. 
 
 The Driving Shaft, a > 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 337 
 
 whence all the six movements included in dressing by power 
 originate, communicates the motion by the 
 
 Pinion, -------- b' 
 
 to the 
 
 Spur Wheel, c' c' 
 
 on the 
 
 Crank Shaft, r 
 
 by which the stroking motion is imparted to the 
 
 Brushes, bb. 
 
 The parts essential to this motion are, the Crank shaft, its two 
 
 Connecting Rods, - - - - - - S S 
 
 which are jointed to the two 
 
 Upright Levers, tt 
 
 by which it communicates, by the two 
 
 Stock Connecting Rods, x x 
 
 with the 
 
 Stock Frame, qq. 
 
 The Stock Frame is thus connected at each side with its respec- 
 tive crank, as seen by the two opposite side views, Plates III. 
 and IV., and partially in the plan. 
 
 The Stock Frame is supported in its place at each end of the 
 brush frame by being placed on 
 
 Two pairs of Spindles, - - - - - // 
 a pair at each end of the frame. A brush is placed on each 
 end of the stock frame under the web, with its face towards the 
 yarn ; and another brush is placed above it, mounted on an upper 
 pair of spindles, with its face towards the under one. 
 
 The upper and under spindles are to be placed so that each 
 of the brushes may move in the plane of the yarn when brought 
 in contact with it. But the brushes must move in opposite 
 directions, and on the yarn alternately. 
 
 The reverse sliding action of the two brushes is obtained from 
 the crank, by connecting them together by a strap which passes 
 over a pulley placed at each end of the two spindles, to change 
 the direction of the motion. 
 
 The Pulley is marked, - 
 and the 
 
 Strap, - - d d. 
 
 2 B 
 
338 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 The parts of this movement are distinctly seen in the side 
 view of the machine, page 131, where the stock frame is more 
 especially seen, which will show it sufficiently in connection 
 with the view of it as presented in the plan, and in the two side 
 views, Plates III. and IV. 
 
 The alternate lifting movement is derived through the crank 
 by the 
 
 Vertical Shaft, tf 
 
 from the 
 
 Horizontal Shafts, - - - - - - h' h' 
 
 working in gear by the 
 
 Bevel Wheels, f'g" 
 
 with the 
 
 Eccentric Shafts, - - - h' Jcf 
 
 which are furnished with 
 
 Eccentric Cams or Wheels, - - - - h h 
 for effecting the required action on the 
 
 Brush Frame, a a. 
 
 Fig. 45, page 131, presents a good side view of the brush 
 frame, and a bird's eye view is seen in the plan, Plate II., 
 from which it will be seen that it vibrates on its centres by the 
 revolving of the eccentric shaft by the reverse position of the cams. 
 
 The means for applying the paste are the pairs of dressing 
 rollers, — the 
 
 Upper Rollers, h h 
 
 the 
 
 Under Rollers, g g 
 
 The Dressing Troughs, K K 
 
 from which they receive the paste ; and the 
 
 Levers, mm 
 
 and 
 
 Weights, n n 
 
 connected by the 
 
 Hooks, II 
 
 (seen in Fig. 45, page 131,) for regulating the supply of the paste. 
 
 The Small Rollers, j j 
 
 at each end of the machine, lead the yarn forward from the 
 reels. 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 339 
 
 Motion is communicated to the rollers so as to apply the paste 
 by two wheels and two pinions. 
 
 The Eccentric Shaft Pinion is marked, - 16 
 
 the number of its teeth, 
 
 The Spur Wheel, 80 
 
 on the end of the under roller — and the intermediate wheel 80 
 likewise, with its 
 
 Pinion, a" 
 by the changing of which the velocity is altered. There is 
 therefore a slit in the frame of the machine to admit of adjust- 
 ing its position according to its size. 
 
 This gearing is seen in the plan, and especially in the side 
 view, Plate III. 
 
 The two Rollers, - - - . - - w w 
 are for deflecting the warp towards the beam, and supporting it in 
 the direction of the brushes. They turn with the yarn, and the 
 large one accordingly is used as a means for measuring the warp 
 as it is dressed. A 
 
 Worm, p' 
 
 is therefore fitted on the gudgeon, which turns a 
 
 Spur Wheel, o' 
 
 which is made to indicate the revolution by ringing a 
 
 Bell, q'. 
 
 The Spur Wheel is therefore furnished with a small stud fixed 
 on the rim, so that when it comes to a certain point in its revolu- 
 tion, it touches the handle from which the bell is hung, and thus 
 
 causes it to tingle. 
 
 The Heddles for the lease are marked v' 
 
 The Holey Plates, s's' 
 
 The Screens, n' n' 
 
 for screening the yarn under the brushes from the blast of the 
 fans. There are two fans in the machine, each consisting of a 
 
 Shaft, p 
 
 as seen especially in the plan, and the 
 
 Two Boards or Arms, y y 
 
 with which it strikes the air. It receives its motion from the 
 
 driving shaft by the 
 
 Strap, V 
 
 from the driving shaft 
 
 Pulley, m'. 
 
340 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 The two fans are driven from the opposite sides of the machine 
 by their respective driving pullies, as seen in the plan. 
 
 The end of the main steam pipe for drying the yarn is seen 
 behind the bell in Plate IV. 
 
 The beam receives its motion from the vertical shaft by the 
 bevel gearing at the top. 
 
 The Bevel Pinion, 20 
 at the top of the shaft, works into a 
 
 Bevel Wheel of 40 
 
 teeth, and transmits its motion to the 
 
 Spur Wheel of 90 
 
 teeth, against which the slipping takes place, as the motion is in 
 excess between the wheel and the 
 
 Collar, - d'. 
 
 This slipping is regulated by 
 
 Pinching Screws, II 
 
 which press against the collar d' . 
 
 The view of the machine in Plate IV. Fig. 1st, presents a 
 front view of this movement, and Fig. 2d a side view. 
 The Stud fixed in the flange of the socket, is marked e' 
 
 and the 
 
 Socket which receives the gudgeon of the beam 
 
 when in its place in the machine, i. 
 The Stud enters the end of the beam, and carries it round with 
 the motion of the socket flange, the centre of which is also the 
 centre of the spur wheel 90. 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 341 
 
 PLATES V. VI. VII. VIII. 
 POWEE LOOM. 
 
 The Power Loom, for Heavy Domestics, is presented in four 
 Plates, containing five views of the loom, — a Plan, in Plate V. — 
 a Front elevation, in Plate VI. — an End elevation, in Plate 
 VIII, — and an opposite End view and Lateral Section taken near 
 the middle of the loom, in Plate VII. The corresponding parts 
 referred to in the four Plates are marked by the same letters. 
 
 The Frame of the Loom is marked, - - AAA' 
 
 The Warp, - - - - - - C 
 
 The Cloth, - - - ' - - - C 
 
 The Cloth Beam, B 
 
 The Yarn Beam, B' 
 
 The Pace Lever, - - - - - Y 
 
 The Pace Cord, v 
 
 The Pace Weight, - V 
 
 The Balance Weight, Z'. 
 The several parts of the Lathe are as follow : — 
 
 The Swords, marked - - - - o o 
 
 The Sole, o' 
 
 The Boxes, uu 
 
 The Spindles, tt 
 
 The Drivers, q q 
 
 The Upper Shell, - - - - P. 
 
 The Race, the groove in the box for the tongue of the 
 driver, and the groove between the swords for the reed are not 
 marked for want of room. But they are referred to in the 
 hand lathe, Fig. 12th, and in the section of the lathe taken im- 
 mediately under the spindles, Fig. 13th, page 31. 
 The Race is there marked, f 
 The Reed Groove, _-_ _ e 
 
 and the black line near w 
 is the driver-tongue groove. 
 
 The Rocking-tree is marked, S 
 
 Its Centres, - S'. 
 
 The lathe is worked by the 
 
 Crank Shaft, E 
 
I 
 
 342 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 which is furnished with two pullies, a fast and a loose one, for 
 connecting and disconnecting it with the power. 
 
 The Fast Pulley is marked - - - - a' 
 
 The Loose one, V. 
 
 The Crank Shaft communicates with the lathe by two 
 
 Connecting Rods, RR 
 
 one to each sword. The one end of each connecting rod is at- 
 tached to its respective sword by an axle joint, and, at the other 
 end, to the crank by a strap-bush, keyed with a gibb and cat- 
 teral, as seen in the transverse section of the loom, Fig. 1st, 
 Plate VII, and partially in the other views. 
 
 The movement of the heddles is directly effected by the 
 
 Wiper Shaft, F 
 
 from the action of the crank shaft, by the intervention of two 
 wheels — a pinion on the crank and a wheel of double the size on 
 the wiper shaft. 
 
 The Crank Shaft Wheel is marked, - - e' 
 The Wiper Shaft Wheel, - - - - /' 
 The Bushes by which these Shafts are secured in 
 their relative places, are marked respectively eefh'f 
 and formed so that the flat piece by which they are bolted to 
 the framing of the loom is confined within the beading, whilst that 
 part which embraces the shaft, or through which it passes, is 
 long — about five inches, and bored out of the solid, so as to make 
 a good fit and secure bedding to the shaft. 
 
 The Heddles are marked, D 
 
 The Heddle Shafts, a a 
 
 The Roller from which they are suspended, - H 
 by the 
 
 Straps, - - H'. 
 
 The Shedding is effected by the alternate action of the 
 
 Wipers, /"/" 
 
 on the 
 
 Treadles, G G 
 
 as seen in the Front elevation, Plate VI. and in the section, 
 Fig. 1st, Plate VII. 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 343 
 
 The intervening parts between the 
 the Spring- Staff Cords, - 
 the Spring- Staff, 
 the Treadle Hooks, 
 
 heddles and the treadles, are 
 
 - bb 
 
 C G 
 
 - gg- 
 
 The Picking is effected by the 
 
 Tappets, /"' /"' 
 
 of the Wiper Shaft, acting on the 
 
 Sweep, - G' 
 
 of the 
 
 Picking Shaft, n' 
 
 in the direction of the Arrow, as seen in Fig. 5th, Plate VIII. 
 
 The shuttle is thrown by the 
 
 Arm, n 
 
 in consequence of its being attached to the 
 
 Driver, q 
 
 by the 
 
 Cord, p 
 
 as seen in all the views of the Loom, 
 
 The two Picking Shafts are connected together by the 
 
 Spiral Spring. n " 
 
 seen in the Front elevation of the loom, to keep the sweeps in 
 the right position for being struck by the tappet. 
 
 The parts for disengaging the loom, in connection with the pro- 
 tector and the fast and loose pullies, are the 
 
 Spring, c ' 
 
 the upper end of which is formed as a handle by which the 
 
 Strap or Belt, d" 
 
 is transferred from the fast pulley to the loose one, by the 
 
 Belt Lever, d'. 
 
 This is done by hand when the loom is designed to be stopped 
 by the worker, as the lathe, is rising from the fell ; and as a 
 precaution he puts his other hand on the lathe, to prevent it 
 from being brought forward \>j any portion of spent power with 
 which it may be influenced. But when the shuttle is not boxed, 
 the protector stops the loom by putting the spring into action 
 without the interference of the worker. 
 
 The protector, for this purpose, has three arms — two are 
 
344 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 duplicates, for acting on their respective boxes, and the third 
 for communicating with the spring. The third arm is to be 
 allowed to act on the spring as the shuttle permits it. Accord- 
 ingly, when the shuttle is right and in the box, the spring is left 
 untouched by it ; but if it is not there as it should be, the third 
 arm throws the spring off the notch in the rest in which it is 
 guiding the belt on the fast pulley to that for the loose. 
 
 But as the protector is too weak to effect the action on the 
 spring of itself, and if it were made sufficiently strong for the 
 purpose it would be too heavy for the shuttle, a catch is inter- 
 posed, on which it acts so that it has merely to lift it. This 
 catch is marked h' , and is well secured to the sole of the lathe — as 
 seen in the End view of the loom, Fig. 2d, Plate VII. — and 
 vibrates in a horizontal position vertically. But as the spring 
 moves in a vertical position laterally, the catch is brought to 
 act on a sliding catch, horizontally placed, which we may call 
 the latch, and is marked V. The latch lies in contact with the 
 spring — when, therefore, the catch is not lifted as the lathe is 
 approaching the fell, it will strike the latch as it is designed, 
 and instantly dislodge the spring. The distance at which the 
 catch is set to act on the spring, or protect, as it is called, 
 should be such only as is sufficient to clear the shuttle of the fell. 
 There is an inconvenience attending the protecting of the shuttle 
 too soon. 
 
 The lathe thus receives the shock in dislodging the spring on 
 the one side only, and to prevent it from being unequally strained, 
 the third arm of the protector is likewise made a duplicate, to 
 act on a catch at the opposite side of the lathe, so as to stop it 
 almost at the same instant by falling in a notch on the side of the 
 framing there, which notch is seen in Fig. 1st, Plate VIII, im- 
 mediately above the stationary catches. 
 
 The parts of the Cloth-beam movement are the 
 
 Spur Wheel, - - - - - M 
 
 on the Axle of the Beam, the 
 
 Ratchet Wheel, M' 
 
 its Pinion, m 
 
 and the 
 
 Hanging Catch, w! 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 345 
 
 which works the movement from the motion of the lathe. 
 
 A Stud o" 
 
 is fixed in the sword of the lathe for that purpose. The two 
 
 Stationary Catches or Clicks, - - - - m" m" 
 to prevent the recoil of the beam, are set to divide the ratchet 
 teeth in working into two equal portions, so that the one is 
 alternately out of gear and in it in working. The two 
 
 Moveable Clicks, ----- m"' m'" 
 on the hanging catch m', are set in like manner to work in 
 co-operation with them. 
 
 Far too little importance is attached to the Rods in weaving 
 by power, — they seem to be regarded merely as Lease Pins. 
 Their use in supporting the yarn and binding it together is 
 greatly overlooked, and, therefore, from this mistaken view, two 
 only are used. In work where breakage is not to be appre- 
 hended, this practice may do little harm, but in every other des- 
 cription of work three should invariably be used, as a means of 
 strengthening the yarn. 
 
 The Rods are marked by the numerals, - 1, 2, 3. 
 The third is the lease rod, and its shed is two threads up and 
 two down alternately, — a good binding lease to the other two. 
 
 The Reed is marked, p'. 
 
 PLATES IX. X. 
 POWER LOOM FOR MUSLINS. 
 
 The parts of the Loom for Muslins which are common with the 
 loom as presented in the previous four plates for calicoes, are 
 almost all marked with the same letters. The parts, accordingly, 
 
 2 c 
 
346 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 in which it differs from the common power loom, only require 
 to be especially pointed out. These are the parts connected with 
 the movements of the lathe and the shuttle, as both these move- 
 ments are effected by springs, that no disturbance injurious to 
 the work be imparted to either of them. 
 
 The Lathe Spring is marked, r' 
 and communicates its action to the lathe at the middle of the 
 sole, under the web, by the 
 
 Lever, t'. 
 
 This lever is fixed on an 
 
 Axle, T 
 
 on which it vibrates ; and that the spring may have as little 
 motion as possible, it is brought to bear on a 
 
 Short Arm, - , - - t" 
 
 fixed on the axle T, so that as the lathe vibrates, the tension is 
 equalized by the spring tending in its action towards the centre 
 of the axle. 
 
 The spring is mounted on a 
 
 Stud, r" 
 
 and acts on a lever. The one end or arm being a spring blade, 
 and the other end or arm is only used for regulating the tension 
 of the blade by the 
 
 I Pinching Screw, - - - - . - r" f . 
 A side view of the spring in its connection with the lathe is very 
 .Well seen in Plate X. Fig. 1st, and the connection of the spring 
 •with the axle T, in Plate IX. 
 
 The lathe is thus impelled by the force of the spring, and, of 
 course, is independent of the motive power as to its effects on the 
 cloth. It is withdrawn from the fell by a 
 
 Flexible Connector, ----- R. 
 The length of the stroke of the lathe is regulated by the distance 
 at which the 
 
 Stud, i 
 
 on which the flexible connector is hinged, is set from the centre 
 of the driving shaft. 
 
 The shuttle is thrown by a spring of a similar construction to 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 347 
 
 that for the lathe. There are two of these springs, one for each 
 side of the loom, to act on its respective picking pin, n' n r , as seen 
 more especially in Plate IX. Fig. 3d, Plate X. is a detached 
 view of the picking pin, with the wiper shaft as shown acting upon 
 it. The picking pin is similar to that represented in the loom for 
 calico weaving. The object in using a spring for throwing the 
 shuttle, in fine weaving, in preference to the direct action of the 
 motive power, is that it be nicely regulated as to its force, that 
 the lightest shuttle, such as is suitable to the work, may be used 
 for it as in weaving by hand. 
 
 But as the protector mars the action of the shuttle, in some 
 measure, and more especially a light one, it would be well to 
 construct it so as to take its action off the shuttle, after it is 
 stayed in the box. This could be easily done, and with very little 
 expense, from the movement of the lathe itself. For instance, 
 as the lathe strikes the fell, it could be made to raise a light 
 spring lever in contact with the lower arm of the protector, and 
 thus support it till it should be disengaged by the backward 
 movement of the lathe. The protector by this means would be 
 prevented from acting obliquely on the tapering end of the 
 shuttle, so that it could not alter its course, and if the movement •* 
 were properly done, this source of disturbance from the action 
 the protector would be prevented. The shuttle could thus vfa 
 made as light as any kind of work would require it. «4 
 
 The parts for shedding are the two 
 
 Rollers, - - -- -- 6c 
 
 with their two 
 
 Arms, - - -- -- -- de 
 
 which are, properly speaking, the treadles. Their connection 
 with the heddles is by means of 
 
 Cords, d' e' 
 
 attached to the 
 
 Spring- Staffs, d" e" 
 
 and the 
 
 Spring- Staff Cords, - d'" e'". 
 
348 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 The connection of the heddle rollers with the power is main- 
 tained by two 
 
 Short Arms, ------ ff 
 
 one on each rod, and placed exterior to the loom, for the con- 
 venience of communicating with the power by the 
 
 Crank, /'" 
 
 Fig. 2d, Plate X. presents a good end view of the connection 
 of the wiper shaft with the heddles. 
 
 - 9 
 
 is the connecting rod between them, supported bj the two 
 
 Friction Pullies, - - - - - g' g' 
 
 which are attached to the outside of the framing of the loom, as 
 seen in the front elevation of the loom, Plate IX. The two 
 arms, //, of the heddle rollers, maintain their connection with 
 the connecting rod ; and for this purpose each is furnished with 
 a stud, which is screwed to the arm /, and which enters the pro- 
 jecting notch of the connecting rod to be affected by its motion. 
 Each of the arms /is likewise slotted, that the size of the shed 
 may be regulated by the distance at which the studs are set 
 from their centres. The depending part of the connecting rod 
 below the shaft F, is designed merely to keep the rod steady by 
 sliding in a groove or guide. 
 
 There is nothing peculiar in the movement of the cloth beam. 
 The only circumstance that especially requires to be attended to 
 in deriving motion to it, is that it be not so taken as to mar the 
 movements of the lathe. For this purpose it is represented as 
 taken from the driving shaft. It could, however, be taken from 
 the rocking tree without affecting the lathe. 
 
 The reed is mounted with the cord. 
 
 The web is paced on the one side of the loom only. A fine 
 web does not require to be paced on both sides. 
 
TO THE *LATES. 
 
 349 
 
 PLATE XI. 
 
 SIZING APPARATUS. 
 
 Plate XI. presents four views of the apparatus for sizing the 
 webs for hand work. 
 
 Fig. 1st is a longitudinal section of the dressing chest, with 
 the apparatus connected with it for sizing the warps. The 
 chest is marked a a, and is represented shorter than is given in 
 the text, to avoid the inconvenience which would otherwise have 
 been unavoidable of having it presented in a folding plate. The 
 chest, as represented, is nearly 9 feet long. Several sizers use 
 them shorter than this ; but the practice is not a good one. The 
 yarn, to be thoroughly sized, must be saturated with the paste 
 to the heart of the thread. This can hardly be effectually done 
 in a short box. The yarn requires to be freed as much as pos- 
 sible from the essential oil that may be present with the cotton 
 — to fit it for receiving the paste, — and a long bath is advan- 
 tageous in this respect, both as it facilitates the removal of the 
 oil by the continued exposure to the heat in the boiling paste, 
 and fits the yarn for receiving it. Hence the advantage of a 
 long dressing bath or chest, both as affecting the quantity and 
 quality of the work. 
 
 But the quality of the work is much dependent on the quality 
 of the paste. Sizers differ as to their mode of making the paste, 
 and even as to the materials for making it ; and, as the business 
 is as yet recently established, there is a good deal of experi- 
 mental practice resorted to by the trade in the making of the 
 size. 
 
 The following is a recipe for size making, which is adopted 
 by some good sizers, both in England and Scotland : — 
 Take 1 pound of soft soap, 
 2 pounds of tallow, 
 2 pounds of soda ; 
 mix them well with as much boiling water as will reduce the 
 mixture to the consistence of cream — then take 70 or 80 gallons 
 of water, milk- warm, put in it about 240 pounds of good flour, — 
 
350 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 and then add the mixture, taking care to stir all well toge- 
 ther ; and in three or four days the size will be fit for use. It is 
 then to be reduced as the work may require it, on being put 
 into the tub. 
 
 The soap, tallow, and soda are designed to qualify the huski- 
 ness of the paste as it affects the yarn, and no doubt, when pro- 
 perly used, are highly beneficial in that respect. 
 
 The relative proportion in which these lubricants are used by 
 different sizers varies in some measure, in consequence of the 
 quality of the work for which they are used ; and likewise, from 
 the notion as to their manner of acting on the work. Some do 
 not use the soda at all, — but this practice is not commendable. 
 If any of the lubricants were to be omitted, the absence of the 
 soap would be less injurious than that of the soda. When the 
 greasy lubricants are in excess, they have a tendency to dimi- 
 nish the cohesion of the paste, as has been noticed in the text ; 
 but the soda is attended with little injury to the cohesion of the 
 paste, and imparts a smoothness to the thread which is bene- 
 ficial to it in the weaving. 
 
 Some, again, for the improvement of the colour of the work, 
 substitute white soap for soft ; and a practice seems to be 
 adopted by some of using small portions of nitric acid in the 
 paste, to incorporate the ingredients more fully together, — but 
 the practice is a dangerous one. It has undoubtedly done in- 
 jury to the yarn, and I am not aware of its having done any 
 good. 
 
 The sizing is usually done, as represented, on the ground 
 floor, where the boiler is likewise placed ; and, for the econo- 
 mizing of the heat, the drying apparatus is placed on the floor 
 above it. The sized warp is led through the floor from the can 
 as it has been received from the sizing apparatus, and carried 
 through the drying machine by the rotation of the cylinders on 
 their axes. 
 
 The motion as communicated from the engine to the cylinders 
 by bevel gearing is represented in Fig. 2d, and the direction in 
 which the cylinders turn by the arrows. The gearing is ap- 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 351 
 
 plied to only two of the rows of cylinders — the first and the 
 third. The second is drawn in connection with the first by the 
 warp passing between them ; and the fourth in like manner 
 from the third. Fig. 4th represents the manner in which the 
 warp passes over the cylinders, as seen from the opposite side 
 of the machine from that represented in Fig. 2nd. ; but without 
 the framing. The warp is led in over the pulley a' at each side 
 of the machine, as seen in the front view of the machine, Fig. 
 3d, till it passes over and under each of the cylinders of the 
 two lower rows alternately. It then passes up to the fourth 
 through the ravel or guide w', and over and under in like man- 
 ner the 4th and the 3d rows, and down again to the first ; and so 
 on till it is run in this manner to the middle of the roller, where 
 the warps are delivered in a dried state through the eye guide, 
 as represented by w" . 
 
 The steam is introduced into the cylinders through their 
 centres by pipes. The main steam pipe is marked s, and the 
 offset to each cylinder s'. At each offset where it communi- 
 cates with the cylinder there is a valve for regulating the ad- 
 mission of steam. The pressure of the steam is ascertained by 
 a valve at the opposite end of the cylinder, as seen in Fig. 4th, 
 where the two little circles on each side of the central one repre- 
 sent the valve. The water from the condensation of the steam is 
 allowed to escape from the centre of the cylinder at the side 
 through the framing. 
 
 PLATE XII. 
 TAPE SIZING MACHINE. 
 
 Three views of the Tape Sizing Machine, as it is given, with 
 the specification of the Patentees, in Newton's Journal of Patent 
 Inventions, are presented in Plate XII. 
 
352 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 Fig. 1st is a Plan, 
 
 Fig. 2d is a side view, and 
 
 Fig. 3d is a longitudinal section of the Machine. 
 Sizing by this means is a combination in principle of the two 
 Machines, designed more especially for hand loom work, as re- 
 presented in Plate XI. 
 
 The Machine, as represented in Plate XII. consists chiefly of 
 a modification of these two operations. The yarn is led into the 
 Machine in the usual manner as in dressing by power, from 
 Reels marked - - - - - - a a a 
 
 placed on the 
 
 Frame of the Machine, A 
 
 at the end towards the left hand. 
 
 The portion of the machine from / to h inclusive, is the appar- 
 atus for sizing. It consists of a dressing trough, or rather two 
 separate ones, in which the size is kept boiling by steam, and four 
 rollers by which the warp is deflected in and out of the size 
 trough, by their rotation on their axes. 
 
 A view of this apparatus is very well seen in the section of the 
 Machine. 
 
 eg e' g' 
 
 are the deflecting rollers, and the direction of tho yarn as pass- 
 ing over them is pointed out by the direction of the arrows. 
 The yarn as it leaves the two 
 
 Delivering Rollers, - - - - - g' g' 
 has the superfluous size squeezed out of it by the pressure be- 
 tween them, and passes onwards by their rotation to be dried. 
 
 The two Tin Cylinders, i i 
 
 are the means for that purpose. The yarn passes to the second 
 cylinder first, where, in approaching it, it undergoes a slight 
 brushing from the circular brush marked 15. It passes from 
 the first to the second, and, from it, is deflected by the three 
 
 Rollers, - - m, m } o, 
 
 to the 
 
 Yarn Beam, - - P 
 
 at the right end of the machine. 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 353 
 
 The tension of the warp is regulated by the pressure between 
 the two receiving and the two delivering rollers, e g, e' g' , in the 
 sizing apparatus, by their connexion with the winch lever 11. 
 14, 14, are racks on which the pivots of the upper rollers are 
 mounted, and are worked from the winch handle by small pin- 
 ions 13, 13. 2 is a loaded lever for increasing the pressure on 
 the delivering rollers. 
 
 The chief feature of novelty in the Tape Sizing Machine, or 
 that in which its peculiarity chiefly consists, is that of sizing 
 the yarn in bands, like half gangs or tapes, in passing through 
 the Machine to be wound on the beam. 
 
 The object by this arrangement of the threads, is to strengthen 
 them in the weaving by the cohesion between the fibres of the 
 yarn from the action of the paste ; and doubtless such an ar- 
 rangement of the yarn is advantageous in the weaving. But if 
 a proper attention is paid to the use of the rods in weaving, as 
 already pointed out, this peculiarity in the sizing will be of less 
 consequence. 
 
 The means for effecting this division of the yarn in the Tape 
 Sizing Machine, is a kind of ravel or reed, marked b in the sec- 
 tion of the Machine, and seen detached in Fig. 5th. Figs. 4th 
 and 6th are two other forms for the same thing. 
 
 The ravel is placed immediately in front of the small roller 
 from which the yarn is deflected into the sizing trough, and the 
 heddles for preserving the lease are placed between it and the 
 nearest reel, at d. The reed for keeping the yarn steady, as it 
 enters the heddles, is, of course, on the other side of them to- 
 wards the reels, at c. 
 
 The heddles by this arrangement are put in the best place for 
 keeping the yarn clear or unintangled in the process. 
 
 The yarn is heeled, in this machine, by a revolving self-acting 
 marker. The roller o, from which the yarn is deflected to the 
 yarn beam, is the measure from which the motion for that pur- 
 pose is taken. The roller axle is, therefore, furnished with a 
 worm on its pivot, which gives motion by the shaft 4 to the shaft 
 7 at right angles to it, by the small bevels 5 and 6. The worm 8 
 on the shaft 7 is the marker, which touches the yarn with the 
 colour — and which receives it as it revolves below the yarn. 
 
 2 D 
 
354 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 Motion is imparted to the machine by the shaft r, which is 
 furnished with the usual means for receiving it — a fast and a 
 loose pulley, q, and is disconnected from the power by the rod s. 
 
 The driving shaft is furnished with a conical drum for com- 
 municating its motion to the beam, so as to regulate its uptaking 
 action according to its varying diameter. There is therefore 
 interposed between it and the beam another transverse shaft sim- 
 ilarly furnished with a cone drum or pulley of the same diameter, 
 but with its apex reversed. The two are connected together with 
 a strap, — and the beam is made to shift the strap, as its diameter 
 varies, so as to obtain a uniformity in its acting circumference 
 unaffected by its varying diameter, — sufficiently so for practical 
 purposes. The interposed shaft v is furnished with a pinion w, 
 which drives a train of three spur wheels x, y, z, by which the 
 rotatory motion is imparted to the beam. 
 
 It will be observed that the web is narrowed as it approaches 
 the beam from the roller ra, and that is done by a ravel n, to bring 
 as much warp as conveniently can be done into a sufficiently nar- 
 row space for weaving. Two of these reels or beams are often 
 put together on the same arbor or beam-shaft, to make one web 
 in weaving. The beams therefore are made to slip off their arbor 
 in the machine like a bobbin — and, as their centre hole is square, 
 they are fitted on the square axle of the loom beam without any 
 trouble, and paced together. 
 
 PLATE XIII. 
 
 POWER LOOM FOR CHECKS. 
 
 Plate XIII. presents two views of the power loom for working 
 checks. Fig. 2nd is an end view, and Fig. 1st a front view, 
 but without the parts exterior to the left framing of the loom. 
 Both of these views are presented merely for the purpose of 
 showing the apparatus as constructed for check weaving by 
 power. 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 355 
 
 The Shuttle-box represented is the drop one, 
 
 and is marked u' 
 
 as seen in Fig. 1st. It is fitted for three shuttles. The spin- 
 dles on which it slides are marked - 6, 7. 
 It communicates with the power by the 
 
 Sliding Connecting Rod, - - - - y'. 
 This rod is jointed to the under shelf of the box, and hangs 
 perpendicularly to it, and freely, by being supported in the 
 
 Two-eyed brackets, 1,2, 
 
 which are bolted to the 
 
 Swords of the Lathe, 0 0. 
 
 This connecting rod communicates with the power by the 
 
 Two-armed Lever, t'. 
 On the one end of this lever the box connecting rod y' rests, and 
 the other end works the box by coming into contact with the 
 pattern wheel. For this purpose the pattern wheel has two 
 
 Projecting ledges, bolted on its face, marked - 3, 4, 
 as seen in Fig. 2d. 
 
 The ledges are parts of concentric circles, and are, therefore, 
 interior and exterior to the centre of the pattern wheel. As 
 the pattern wheel is turned round, they therefore come succes- 
 sively into contact with the end of the lever t' , which is fur- 
 nished with the pulley t'\ and depress it to a fixed level while 
 they continue to act upon it. The box is thus raised, and suc- 
 cessively by the action of the respective ledges, and falls 
 by its own gravity when the lever has escaped from their ac- 
 tion. The upper box is then level with the race, — the first 
 ledge raises the second box, and the second ledge, the third. 
 Two ledges are thus sufficient for three shuttles. The circular 
 form of the ledges is necessary to maintain their respective 
 boxes at a uniform level throughout the action of each respec- 
 tively, and the depression of each ledge must be equal to the 
 height of its box, to bring it to the level of the race. The pat- 
 tern wheel is made to admit of an adjustment of the ledges for 
 this purpose, and, still further, by the pulley as attached to the 
 lever t'. 
 
 The power is communicated to the pattern wheel by the 
 Wheel, ------- 5 
 
356 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 and its pinion, from the pinion of the wiper shaft, seen imme- 
 diately behind the rod marked - - - - o". 
 The other parts of the loom are referred to in the text, and in 
 the previous portion of the Index by letters which distinguish 
 the corresponding parts. 
 
 Fig. 7th is the end view of the driver for the drop box. The 
 dark sectional lines in the middle, marked t, are the spindles. 
 
 Figs. 3rd and 4th are for the purpose of showing the action 
 of the friction beam in taking up the cloth. D is the spring 
 which keeps the receiving beam C against the delivering beam 
 B. 
 
 Fig. 5th is a front view of the swing box, as made for the 
 hand loom lathe. 
 
 PLATE XIV. 
 
 MR STONE'S LETTING-OFF MOTION, AND WEFT SHOT PROTECTOR. 
 
 Plate XIV. presents seven figures. The second is an end 
 view of Mr Stone's loom, for the purpose of showing the letting- 
 {■ j [ off motion as brought out by that gentleman. 
 
 Fig. 1st is a view of a part of the lathe as connected with the 
 t letting-off motion, and Figs. 3rd' and 4th are modifications of 
 this connection. 
 
 The other figures are for the purpose of representing the Weft 
 shot Protector. Fig. 5th is a side view of this useful contri- 
 vance, as seen by a section taken near the middle of the loom. 
 Fig. 6th is a plan, and Fig. 7th a front elevation. 
 
 The weft shot protector lever is shaped something like an 
 eating fork with long prongs ; but the prongs are bent down 
 nearly at right angles to the shank, as seen in the end view, 
 Fig. 5th ; /' is the bent arm. The shank is supported so 
 that it may vibrate on pivots horizontally as a lever with two 
 arms. The bent arm /' comes in contact with the weft shot, 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 357 
 
 as carried by the shuttle, in front of the reed, and thus raises 
 the other end, /. It does not, then, affect the loom ; but 
 when this escape does not take place, the fork is caught by the 
 
 Lever, ------- $ 
 
 and in consequence of the motion which it receives from the 
 
 Wiper, a 
 
 by the 
 
 Tappet, - -- -- -- 6 
 
 through the 
 
 Arm, c 
 the spring is thrown out of gear, and the loom is stopped. The 
 three views in the Plate sufficiently show the contrivance for 
 this action. The hooked lever d, as connected with the fork/, 
 and the arm c, with the wiper a, are fixed on the same centre, 
 e, as seen in the three views. 
 
 The Lever, g 
 
 alongside of the 
 
 Spring, h 
 
 bears the Weft Shot Lever or Fork, /. 
 
 And if, therefore, the fork is drawn forward by the action of 
 as it must be if not disengaged from it, the spring h will be 
 thrown forward, according to this action, into the front notch, 
 as will be seen more especially by a reference to Fig. 6th. 
 
 PLATE XV. 
 TEMPLES. 
 
 Plate XV. presents views of three sorts of Temples, — the 
 nipper, the rotatory, and the roller, for acting on the cloth. 
 
 Fig. 1st is a single temple of the nipper kind, consisting of 
 two jaws — the upper and the under, between which the cloth is 
 held, and allowed to open by the under one being a spring. The 
 under one is marked ------ a 
 
 and the upper one -------6. 
 
358 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 Fig. 2nd is the temple in an open state, and Fig. 3d is the 
 plan of the temple, as fitted on the breast beam for acting on 
 the cloth. This temple is opened every shot to allow the cloth 
 to move to the beam, and that is done by the sole of the lathe 
 striking the curved end of the 
 
 Lever, d 
 
 and thus forcing the opposite end, which is wedge-shaped, be- 
 tween the jaws. - 
 
 Four views are given of the rotatory temple — a plan as at- 
 tached to the breast beam in Fig. 4th, — the plan reversed in 
 Fig. 5th, — a side view of the temple in Fig. 6th, — and an end 
 view, as seen from the side of the loom, in Fig. 7th. c is the 
 rotatory temple. 
 
 Two views are given of the roller temple, b is the roller, — a 
 the cloth passing under it, — c the half tube in which it revolves 
 by the passing of the cloth to the beam, — d is the attachment 
 of the half tube to the breast beam, e. 
 
 PLATE XVI. 
 
 VERTICAL POWER LOOM FOR SAIL-CLOTH, <ftc 
 
 Plate XVI. presents a lateral section of the vertical power 
 loom for sail-cloth or very heavy work. 
 
 It will be observed that the construction of the loom, as pre- 
 sented in the Plate, is little else than the common power loom 
 laid on its face. The beams are, therefore, relatively in a ver- 
 tical direction. The cloth beam E is below the lathe, and the 
 yarn beam B above it. 
 
 The object of this arrangement is to gain the utmost effect 
 in driving home the weft, with the least reaction on the machi- 
 nery and the power. The lathe is, therefore, to have sufficient 
 weight in itself, and sufficient leverage to render its weight 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 359 
 
 effective on the weft shot. To obtain such a construction of lathe 
 with the utmost economy of room, two looms are constructed in 
 the same framing. The leverage of the swords of each of the 
 lathes is thus made equal to the length of the two looms — as 
 shown in the Plate. The lathe is marked as in the other 
 looms, — o' is the sole, — o the sword, — and P is the upper shell. 
 There is only one shaft in each loom — the driving one, marked g'. 
 This shaft works the lathe, the shuttle, and the treadles, by 
 Cams. 
 
 The Cams of the lathe are marked - - - /'/' 
 and raise it gradually, according as they are made for the speed 
 at which the loom is to be driven, and let it fall on the fell like 
 a tilt hammer. 
 
 Thus arranged, the race is between the fell and the reed, and 
 it must, therefore, be made moveable to allow the reed to strike 
 up the shot. The race is, therefore, fixed in a swing frame h, 
 which vibrates on its centre within the swords, but above the web. 
 It, therefore, hangs pendent, like a little lathe within the lathe, 
 and the sword is formed with a raised part to support it in 
 this hanging position. The form of the race frame is some- 
 thing like a rectangular lever, with the centre of motion at the 
 angle of the square. The upper rectangular arm is loaded, and, 
 therefore, from the position in which it is hung, presses the pen- 
 dent arm, or tends to keep it against the sole of the lathe. The 
 pendent arm projects forward under the sole, forming a line 
 parallel with the reed, with a space merely sufficient for the 
 shuttle to pass. The end of this projecting piece will be seen, 
 marked /, and is in fact a kind of open reed like a comb. This 
 reed part is the race, and must of course be pressed back, as 
 the lathe is descending on the fell, after the shuttle has passed 
 over it, so as to clear it of the cloth. 
 
 The projecting part of the frame below the race is the means 
 for effecting this motion. As the lathe is descending, it comes 
 in contact with the pulley j, and is thus carried back to the re- 
 quired extent, which should not be more than what is necessary, 
 < — a little more than the half of the shed. 
 
 If the lathe is constructed on the principle of forcing the 
 weft home by the power in opposition to its weight, the race 
 
360 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX 
 
 frame will, in that case, be unnecessary, as the shuttle will run 
 on the reed. But it will probably be found, that the advantage 
 arising from the action of the lathe, as represented in the Plate, 
 will more than compensate for the inconvenience attending an 
 additional moving part. 
 The treadles are at the side of the loom, and marked G G 
 
 and the 
 
 Cams by which they are worked, - - g g. 
 
 The treadles communicate with the heddles in the usual man- 
 ner, — by marches c c. The marches of course extend from the 
 other side of the loom, and are attached to the springstaffs, b h, 
 at the middle of the heddles, and at the further end, to the 
 treadles, G. 
 
 The treadles are vertically placed in the loom, and kept 
 steady by the guide framing, A', in which they move. 
 
 The connection of the cams with the Picking shaft n' is not 
 seen. The sweep, similar to that represented in the loom for 
 calicoes, is bolted to the shaft ; and on this, as a leverage, the 
 cam acts in the usual manner. 
 
 The driver is of the usual form, and may be attached to the 
 fly-cord in the usual manner, by means of a button-headed 
 wooden screw pin, screwed into the side of the driver. 
 
 There is nothing peculiar about the pacing — v is the pace 
 cord. It is attached to a lever in the usual manner. The 
 lever is represented as broken off, and may be placed either to 
 hang in the direction of the swords or transversely to them, 
 with the end outwards ; which last arrangement is perhaps the 
 best. 
 
 The protector is not represented. 
 
TO THE PLATES. 
 
 361 
 
 DRESSING MACHINE FOR FINE YARN. 
 
 The Plates XVII. and XVIII. present two views of the Dress- 
 ing Machine for fine yarn. Plate XVII. presents a longitudinal 
 section of the machine, and Plate XVIII. a plan of so much of 
 it as is not of a duplicate kind. The parts of the machine 
 which are common with the Crank Dressing Machine, are gen- 
 erally marked with the same letters. 
 
 The Driving Shaft is marked r 
 The chief peculiarity in the Fine yarn Dressing Machine is 
 with respect to the action of the brush. There are 
 
 Two Carriages, respectively marked - - a a'. 
 The one carriage performs a shorter stroke than the other; 
 they pass in the yarn and out of it by inclined planes, and re- 
 turn to repeat their action on moveable rails. The 
 
 Fixed Rail is marked d 
 
 and the 
 
 Moveable Rail, h. 
 
 The corresponding parts at each end of the machine are dis- 
 tinguished by the same letters. 
 
 The carriages are driven in reverse directions from opposite 
 cranks on the driving shaft, and from opposite sides of the ma- 
 chine. In the longitudinal section, therefore, one only of the 
 carriages can be seen connected with the driving shaft, but both 
 are partially seen in the plan. 
 
 The Moveable Rail for the under carriage is marked h ac- 
 cented. Both the upper and under moveable rails are opened 
 for the admission of their respective carriages in opposition to 
 the action of their respective springs or weights (whichever 
 may be used,) by the revolution of what corresponds to the 
 eccentric shaft in the Crank Dressing Machine — here marked 
 k' . The eccentric is here formed into a disc with two project- 
 ing faces in opposite sides of the plate. Each face occupies 
 nearly the half of the disc, as denoted by the line with which 
 it is bisected. The upper moveable rail is brought in contact 
 with the disc by a short arm, pendent, — not seen, but fixed to 
 the centre of the rail behind the disc. The lower rail is acted 
 on by the disc, as seen in the longitudinal section, on the inner 
 
 2 E 
 
362 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE INDEX TO THE PLATES. 
 
 side near the top of it, The disc thus acts with its face on 
 the one rail below its centre, and with the reverse face on the 
 other above it. The disc is fixed for this purpose on the spot, 
 so that each of the moveable rails, when brought against its re- 
 spective face, is clear of its respective carriage wheel. The 
 revolution of the shaft will thus allow the moveable rails to fall 
 alternately under their respective carriage wheels, in being left 
 to the influence of their weight or spring i. 
 
 GLASGOW: 
 PHI N TED BY JOHN NIVEX AND SO », 
 GLASSFORD STItEET. 
 
PLATE VHI. 
 
 E^D ELEVATION Of THE POWER LOOM. 
 
 PLLblishedtyy John Niven Glasgowl846 
 
PLATE X. 
 
 PuHishedtvJolml liven Glasgow 1846 
 
EnaViear of the, Cylinders t in, Hie. Djyuig JfcLcTdrie, wi&v 
 PLATE Jl2 . tJte ll'arp <zs seezz, passing oi-er lAem, 
 
 JSdotishs&hy John Mven Glasgow 1846 , 
 
plate jxnr. 
 
 END ELEVATION OF THE POWER LOOM FOR WORKING CHECKS. 
 
 Scale, of Fact 
 
 TRANSVERSE SECTION, TAKEN LN FRONT OF THE LATHE, OF THE CHECK POWER LOOM. 
 
si 
 
TLATE XV. 
 
 Published by Jolm ISTiven Glasgow 1846 
 
 Geo^dikman Sc , 
 
PIATE XY1. 
 
 TRANSVERSE SECTION OE THE 
 
 Publisher 
 
A 
 
 John H iven, Glasgow- 1846. 
 
i 
 
 ' zzmx aiv r id 
 
PUBLISHED BY JOHN NIVEN, 46 ARGYLL STREET, GLASGOW 
 
 WHITTAKER & CO., LONDON: J. & J. THOMSON, MANCHESTER: D. APPLETON & CO., NEW YORK. 
 
 In One Volume 8vo, Price 6s. bound in cloth, 
 With numerous illustrative Plates and Wood Cuts, 
 
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 BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 In one Volume 8vo, Price 9/6, third edition, greatly enlarged and improved, and 
 Illustrated by numerous Appropriate Engravings, 
 the 
 
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PUBLISHED BY JOHN NIVENT, 46 ARGYLL STREET, GLASGOW : 
 
 WHITTAKER & CO., LONDON; J. & J. THOMSON, MANCHESTER: D. APPLETON & CO., NEW YORK. 
 
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/ 9 n fQ