T O ^ U R 
 
 Thro' the Whole ISLAND of 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 Divided into 
 
 Circuits Journeys. 
 
 GIVING 
 
 A Particular and Entertaining AccouNTof 
 whatever is Curious., and ^onh.0bfervatio7t ; 
 
 VIZ. 
 
 I. A Description of the Prin- i IV. The Sea Ports and Fortifi< 
 
 cipaJ Cities and Towns, then 
 Situation, Gaveinment, and 
 Commerce. 
 
 II. The Cuftoms, Manners, Exer- 
 ciies, Diverfions, and Imp!oy- 
 ment of the People. 
 
 HI. The Produce and Improve- 
 ment of the Lands, the Trade, 
 and Manufadures. 
 
 cations, the Courfe of Rivers 
 and the Inland Navigation. 
 
 V. The Publick Edifices, Seats, 
 and Palaces of the Nobility 
 and Gentry. 
 
 VI. The Illcs of Wight, Port- 
 land, yerjey, Guerrifey, and xhs 
 other Englijh and Hcotijh Ifles 
 of moft Note. 
 
 Interfperfed with L7/^/«/ Observations. 
 
 Particularly fitted for the Perufal of fuch as defire to 
 ' Travel over the ISLAND. 
 
 By a G E N T L E M A N. 
 
 The T H I R D EDITION. 
 
 With very great Additions, Improvement?, and Corredlions ; which 
 bring it down to the Year 1742. 
 
 In Four Vo e u m e s. 
 
 IFith a Copious I N D E X to each Volume. 
 
 ITolTT 
 
 LONDON: 
 Printed for J. Os BORN, S.Birt, D.Browne, J. Hod-gbs, 
 A.Millar, J. Whis ton, and J. Robinson. 
 M.DCC.XLIl. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 H E kind Reception which the 
 lall Edition of this Work haS 
 met with, determined the Pro- 
 prietors to fpare no Expence 
 to make the prefent as com- 
 plete as the Nature of the Work v/ould 
 admit; and the Editor, in purfuance of 
 their Intention, has (befides his own Ob- 
 fervations and Experience) been favour'd 
 -'with fuch ample Materials by feveral carious 
 Gentlemen, as have made it impoffible to 
 comprize the Whole in Three Volumes, as 
 before; altho' he omitted all that could* be 
 fpared, and abftraded whatever would bear 
 ir. He was therefore obliged to add a 
 Fourth Volume. 
 
 And this he found himfelf under the 
 greater Neceility of doing; becaufe, whtn 
 he came to compare the former Edition will ' 
 A 2 . h\^, 
 
iv PREFACE. 
 
 his own Notes and the Maps, he difcovered 
 many very mflterial Omiffions ; particularly 
 that the whole County of Hertford w^as 
 omitted, excepting St. Albam, and one or 
 two Villages, as alfo the liles of Wight, 
 Portland, Guernfey, Jerfey^ Alderney, and 
 Sarke-, together with that of Man, and 
 the Scots TJles : That the Defcription 
 of the Northern Counties of England, 
 which abound with great Numbers of Re- 
 markables, was alfo very defedive : and. 
 That the firft Author had direded his Tour 
 in feveral Places in fuch a manner, as to 
 pafs wholly by feveral of the beft Towns, 
 and moft Remarkable Places, and quite out 
 of any Geographical Courfe or Order. ^ 
 
 Then the Materials which the Editor 
 was fupplied with for Scotland, he found 
 would fwell that Part of the United King- 
 dom to one intire Volume j which before 
 made not half a one j and he was glad of 
 the Opportunity of doing fome further 
 Tuftice to that Country, whichhas generally 
 been flightly confidered by thofe who know 
 
 little of it. , , , r n. 
 
 It muft alfo be obferved, that the hrlt 
 Author had, in many Places, difclaimed 
 Antiquities, as a Subjed out of his 
 Piovliice ; Whereas we have thought 
 
 ourfelves 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 ourfelves obliged, fo far as our Limits 
 would permit, to take Notice of fuch, as 
 (ftill remaining) may be confidered as a 
 Part of the Prefent State of the Counties 
 and Places where, at this Day, they conti- 
 nue vifible ; and which may, moreover, 
 merit the Attention of a curious Traveller j 
 and particularly of fuch Antiquities as have 
 been brought to Light fmce the lall Edition 
 of Camden^ Britannia. 
 
 For the above Reafon, we have been 
 pretty ample in our Accounts of the famous 
 Stonehenge, and the Barrows in Wilts; and 
 confefsour Obligations on this Head, to the 
 Learned Dr. Stukeley in his late Work on 
 that Subjeift, to whom we are alfo beholden 
 in feveral other Places, 
 
 We have likewife thought ourfelyes 
 obliged to take Notice of the Benefits which 
 feveral Port and Trading Towns in this 
 Kingdon), as well in its Northern as Sou- 
 thern Farts, have of late Years received 
 from Ads of Parliament for inlarging and 
 reftoring of Piers and Harbours, Repairs of 
 Roads, ahd for making Rivers navigable, 
 where the Face of Affairs in their parti- 
 cular Neighbourhoods have been any way 
 altered or effeded by thofe laudable 
 WorkSr 
 
 We 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 We have, moreover, fubjoined to this 
 Edition, Lifts of the Cities and Boroughs 
 which return Members to the Parliament 
 of Great Britain ; the Lifts of fuch Gen- 
 tlemens Seats in each County, as v^^e had not 
 room to defcribe ; likewife a brief Account 
 of the Englijh Biftiopricks, and Lifts of 
 the Peers of England and Scotland, in fuch 
 a manner as will not be fubjed: to any other 
 Variations than that of the total Extinction 
 of Families j for our Intention was to carry 
 this Piece, as much as the Nature of the 
 Work would admit, beyond the Reach of 
 temporary Flu(ftuations and Changes. 
 
 By what we have faid, it will appear, 
 that this will have the Face of a new 
 Work, and indeed more than the Face, as 
 will be feen by.any who will take the Pains 
 to compare the different Editions j and 
 that tlierefore it was impoffible to print by 
 themfeives, for the Ufe of the Purchafers 
 of the laft Edition, thofe new Obferva- 
 tions, Defcriptions and Corredions which 
 are incorporated in the prefent 5 as the 
 Proprietors were very defirous to have 
 done, had it been pradicable. But this 
 we may venture to promife, that tho' the 
 Nature of this¥/ork is fuch, that there 
 muft be always Room for Additions, ^c. 
 
 as 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 
 as new Difcoveries may be made, or Alter- 
 ations happen by Time ; yet, that all fuch 
 neceflary Alterations and Additions fhall, 
 for the future, be printed by themfelves, 
 (after the manner of the Appendix to 
 Vol. III. of this Edition) that the Rea- 
 der may not be under the Neceffity of re- 
 purchaiing the whole Work. 
 
 But left it (hould be imagined, from any 
 thing we have faid above , that we have 
 been fo ungenerous, as to endeavour to 
 raife a Merit to the prefent Edition, at the 
 Expence of the former, we fliall obferve. 
 That the good Reception which the La- 
 bours of the Original Author met with in 
 his firft Edition, (and which alfo attended 
 the fecond, which was printed with very 
 great Additions and Improvements) is no bad 
 Aro-ument of the Value of his Performance. 
 And indeed He well deferved that Succefs, 
 who could with Juftice give fuch an Ac- 
 count of his Abilities for the Undertaking, 
 as is contained in the following Paragraphs. 
 
 ' The Preparations for thisWoik, fays 
 
 * he, have been fuitable to the Author's 
 
 * earneft Concern for its Ufefulnefs. Se- 
 
 * venteen very large Circuits, or Journeys, 
 ' have been taken thro' divers Parts fepa- 
 < rately, and Three general Tours over 
 
 * almoA 
 
viii PREFACE. 
 
 * almaft the whole EngUjh Part af the 
 
 * Ifland J in all which the Author has not 
 ' been wanting to treafure up juft Remarks 
 ' upon particular Places and Things ; fo 
 ' that he is very little in Debt to other 
 
 * Mens Labours,, and gives but very few 
 ' Accounts of Things but what he has 
 ' been an Eye-witnefs of himfelf. 
 
 * Befides thefe feveral Journeys in Eng- 
 
 * landy he has alfo lived fome time in 
 ' Scotland^ and has travelled critically over 
 
 * great Part of it: He has viewed the 
 ' North Part of England, and the South 
 ' Part Scotland^ Five feveral times over. 
 ' All which is hinted here, to let the 
 
 * Readers know, what Reafon they have 
 
 * to be fatisfy'd with the Authority of the 
 
 * Relation j and that the Accounts here 
 
 * given are not the Produce of a curfory 
 ' View, or raifed upon the borrow'd 
 
 * Lights of other Obfervers.' 
 
 We iliall only add, That if the Firil 
 Edition had all thefe Advantages, we may 
 very fafely fubmit the Merit of the prefent 
 to. the Judgment of the candid Reader. 
 
 A 
 
TOUR 
 
 Through the I s l a N d of 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 ^Description of Fart of the County 
 of Essex, and of the County of S uf- 
 
 FOLK, ^C, 
 
 I S E T out from London on my firft 
 Journey, Eaftward j and took a Cir- 
 cuit down by the Coaft of the Thames 
 thro' the Marflies or Hundreds, on 
 the South fide of the County of Ejfex^ 
 to Maiden^ Colchejier^ and Harwich^ 
 thence continuing on the Coaft of Suffolk to Tar- 
 mouth J thence round by the Edge of the Sea, on 
 ^hl^?^'''^ ^""^ Weft-fide of Norfolk, to Lynn, 
 fPifitch, and the PTaJh; thence back again on the 
 ^^^"1. B North- 
 
£ AT OVK thro' Effex. 
 
 North-fide of Sufolk ; thence into the County of 
 Cambridge i and fo to the Weft-part of Efex, end- 
 ing it in Middlefex, near the Place where I began : 
 referving the Middle or Centre of the feveral Coun- 
 ties to fome little Excurfions, which I made by 
 
 ,lhemfe]ves. . r r/r 
 
 Faffing Bow-Bridge., where the County of EJac 
 ^begins, I came firft to the Village of S.tratford^ 
 which is greatly increafed of late Years in Houfes 
 ^nd Inhabitants, every Vacancy being filled up, in a 
 .manner with the Addition of two little new-built 
 Hamlets, as they may be called, on the Foreft-fide of 
 the Town ; namely, Mary land- Point, and the 
 ^ravA-Pits, ojie facing the Road to Woodford and 
 Emng, and the other that to llford. As for the 
 iHither-part, it is almoft joined to Bow, in fpite of 
 Rivers, Caruiis, Marfhy-groujids, ^c. 
 
 The fame Increafe of Buildmgs , may be feen 
 proportionally in the other Villages adjacent, efpe- 
 ciallv on the Foreft-fide j as at Low-Layton, Lay 
 ' -ton-done, Walthamjiow, Woodford, Wanjied, and 
 The To™ of Wefl-Ham, Plaijiow, Upton, he, 
 and this, generally fpeaking, of handfome large 
 Houfes from 20 I to 50 /. a Year ; bemg chiefly 
 the Habitations of the richeft Citizens, fuch as are 
 ^ble to keep a Country, as well as a Town Houfe 
 fuch as have left off Trade altogether. Tins is 
 ?n\ooarent, that they tell me, there are no lefs than 
 tZ' wi-^ Coaches kept by the Inhabitants 
 within the Circumference of the few Villages 
 Tamed above, befides fuch as are kept by accidental 
 Cdaers: the Caufe of which I ftiall inlarge upon 
 
 I come to fpeak of the like in the Counties of 
 Mddlefe., Surrey, &c. where there will be ftill 
 more Occafion to take notice of it. 
 
 There have been difcerned withm thefe few Years, 
 in the l>.ottom<^i Hackney- Marjh, between Old-ford 
 U the IVyck, the Remains of a great Stone Caufe- 
 
Effex. Great Britain. 5 
 
 way, which is fuppofed to have been the High- 
 way, or great Road, from London to Ejex, inftead 
 of that which now leads over the Bridge between 
 • Botv and Stratford. 
 
 That the great Road lay this Way, and that the 
 great Caufeway continued juft over the River, where 
 ,now th^ Temple- Mills ftand, and paflbd by ^[r Henry 
 Htckes s Houfe at Ruckholls, is not at all doubted - 
 and that it was one of thofe famous Highways made 
 by the Ro?nans, there is undeniable Proof, bv the 
 feveral Marks of Work, and hy Lman 
 
 l^oms, and other Antiquities found there, fome of 
 which were collefted by the late Reverend Mr. Stryte 
 Vicar of Low- Lay ton. * 
 From hence the great Road pa/Ted up to Layton- 
 Jtone, a Place by fome known now as much by the 
 feign of the Green- Man, formerly a Lodge upon the 
 i^^dge of the Foreft ; and croffing by Wanfied- 
 houfe the noble Seat of Earl (of which 
 
 hereafter) went over the fame River, which we now 
 Til' y""^ that Part of the great 
 
 l-oreft, cz\\td Henault-Forejl, came into the pre- 
 fent great Road a little on this fide the maleLe, 
 
 WK i'^^ ^""t "^^^^^ ^^^^"^^ ^ Rib-bone of a large 
 Whale taken in the River of Thames the Year thtt 
 Oliver Cromwell died, 1658. was fixed there. 
 
 ^ According to my firft Intention, of efFeaually 
 ■viewing the Sea-coafts of Suffolk, and Norfo l 
 
 I went from Stratford to Marking, a hrge Market 
 town but chiefly inhabited by FifheriSen, whofe 
 bmacks ride mtherWx, at the Mouth of Bark- 
 ing ^xjk ; from whence their Fifti are fent up 
 Boats ' Market at Bllllngfgat., in (ml 
 
 ^'^'y "^^^'"1 VefTels to 
 the Pubhck upon many Occafions ; as particularly 
 in time of War they are ufed as Prefs-fmacks, run- 
 ning to all the Northern and Weftern Coafts to pick 
 B 2 
 
4 A TO VK thro ElTex. 
 
 up Seamen to m'an the Navy, when any Expedition 
 is at hand, that requires a fudden Equipment At 
 other times, being ex&ellent Sailors, they are Ten- 
 ders to particular Men of War; and on an Expe- 
 dition, they have been made ufe of as Machmes, for 
 •the blowing up fortified Ports j as formerly at i>t. 
 Af^/^?, and other Places. , i 
 
 The PariOi of Barhng is very large ; and by the 
 Improvement of Lands recovered out of th^Thamei, 
 and out of the River which runs by the Town, the 
 great and fmall Tithes, as the Townfm^n aflured 
 me, are worth above 600 /. per Annum. This Parilh 
 has two Chapels of Eafe, -ol'z. one at Ilford zxid 
 one on the lide of the Foreft, called New-chapel 
 
 A little beyond the Town, on the Road to Va- 
 genham, ftood a great old Houfe, where, Tr^^^tion 
 favs the Gunpovoder-Treafon was contrived, and 
 where all the firft Confultations about it were 
 
 ^'^This Side of the County is rather rich from the 
 Nature of its Land, than from the Number of its 
 Inhabitants, which is occafioned by the Unhealth - 
 nefs of the Air; for thefe low Marfti Grounds, 
 which, with all the South-fide of the County have 
 been gained, as it were, out of the River Thames 
 and the Sea, where the River wide enough to b. 
 called fo, begin here, or rather at Weji-Ham^ by 
 iZtforl and extend themfelves from hence Eaft- 
 ward ; growing wider, till we come beyond Ttl- 
 T; ry, when the flat Country lies fix feyen, or eight 
 Miles in Breadth, and is both unhealthy and un- 
 
 'How;ver it is verygood Farming in theMarfc, 
 becaufethe Landlords let good Peny-worths, t o 
 the Land is rich ; for It being a Place where every 
 body cannot live, thofe that .venture it, will have 
 Encouragemeiit i and it is but reafonable they 
 fhould. 
 
EfTex. Gr E A T B R I T A r N. 5 
 
 In paffing from Barking to Dagenham^ W€ faw the 
 Place where was the famous Breach, that laid near 
 5000 Acres of Land under Water ; but which,, 
 after near ten Years Inundation, and the Works 
 being feveral times blown up, was at laft efFe£tually 
 flopped by Captain Perry, who for feveral Years had 
 been employed in the Czar of Mufcovf% Works, at 
 Veronitxa, on the River Don. 
 
 Great Part of the Lands in thefe Levels, efpecially 
 fhofe on this fide Eaji-Tilbury, are held by the 
 Farmers, Cow-keepers, and Grafmg-butchers, who 
 live in and near London, who generally ftock them 
 With Line olnjhire 2^nA LeiceJierpireV^&thtrs, (which 
 tliey buy in Sjnithfield, in Septejnber and OSlober, 
 when the Grafiers fell off their Stocks) and feed 
 here till Chrijimas or Candlemas ; and tho' they are 
 not made much the fatter here, than v/hen bought 
 in, yet very good Advantage accrues by the Differ- 
 ence of the Price of Mutton between Michaelmas, 
 when cheapeff, and Candlemas^ when dearefr ; and 
 this is what the Butchers call, by way of Excellence, 
 right Marjh Mutton,. 
 
 At the End of thefe Marfhes, clofe to the Edge 
 of the River,, ftands Tilbury-fort, which may juftly 
 be looked upon as the Key of the City of London : 
 It is a regular Fortification-, the Defign of it was a 
 a Pentagon, but the Water-baftion, as it would have 
 been called, was never built ; the Fhn was laid 
 out by Sir Martin Beckman, chief Engineer to 
 King Charles II. who alfo defigned the Works at 
 Sheernefs. The Efplanade of the Fort is very large, 
 and the Baftions the largeft of any in England. The 
 Foundation is laid upon Piles driven down two an 
 end of one another, fo far, till they were aflured 
 they were below the Chanel of the River, and that 
 the Piles, which were pointed with Iron, entered 
 into the folid Chalk-rock adjoining to the Chalk- 
 hills on the other fide. 
 
 B 3 " The 
 
'6 
 
 ^ T O U R fhro' 
 
 EfTex. 
 
 The Works to the Land-fide are complete ; the 
 Baftions are faced with Brick. There is a double 
 Ditch, or Moat, the innermoft of which is i8o 
 Feet broad ; a good Counter fcarp, and a Covered 
 Way marked out, with Ravelins and Tenaillesj but 
 they have not been completed. 
 
 On the Land-fide there are alfo two fmall Re- 
 doubts of Brick, but the chief Strength of this Fort 
 on the Land-fide confifts in being able to lay the 
 whole Level under Water, and fb to make it im- 
 polTible for an Enemy to carry on Approaches that 
 way. 
 
 On the Side next the River, is a very ftrong Cur- 
 tain, with a noble Gate called the Water-gate in the 
 Middle, and the Ditch is palifado'd. At the Place 
 where the Water-baftion was defigned to be built^ 
 and which by the Plan fhould run wholly out into 
 the River, fo to flank the two Curtains, on each 
 fide, (lands a high Tower, v/hich they tell us was 
 built in Queen Elizabeth's Time, and was called the 
 Bbck-houfe j the Side next the Water is vacant. 
 
 Before this Curtain, above and below the faid Va- 
 cancy, is a Platform in the place of a Counterfcarp, 
 on which are planted io6 Cannon, generally carry- 
 ing from 24 to 46 Pound Ball ; a Battery fo terrible, 
 as well imports the Confequence of that Place : be- 
 fides which, there are fmaller Pieces planted between, 
 and the Baftions and Curtain alfo are planted with 
 Guns ; fo that they muft be bold Fellows who will 
 venture in the biggeft Ships to pafs fuch a Battery, if 
 the Men appointed to ferve the Guns, do their Duty, 
 as becomes them. 
 
 From hence there is nothing for many Miles 
 together remarkable, but a continued Level of un- 
 healthy Marfhes, called The three Hundreds^ till 
 we come before Leigh^ and to the Mouth of the 
 Rivers Chelmer and Black-water ^ faving that the 
 To^N'sx^oi Harndoriy Rayley znd Rochford, lie near 
 
EfTex. Great Britaij?-.' f 
 
 the Sea-coaft, extending in the order I have named ; 
 but are of no Note. The above Rivers, united,, 
 make a large Firth, or Inlet of the Sea, vi^hich our 
 Fifliermen and Seamen, who ufe it as a Port, call' 
 Maiden-water. 
 
 In this Inlet is Ofey or Ofyth Ifland, fo well known- 
 by our London Men of Pleafure, for producing fuch 
 vaft Numbers of Wild- Ducks, Mallards, Teals and 
 Wigeons, that the Ifland feems covered with them 5 
 at certain Times of the Year, and they go from Lon- 
 don for the Pleafure of Shooting ; and often come 
 home very well loaden with Game j and fometimes 
 too with an Effex Ague on their Backs, which tliey 
 find a heavier Load than the Fowls they have (hot. 
 
 On the Shore, beginning a little below Candy 
 Ifland, or Leigh Road, lies a great Shoal or Sand, 
 called the Black Tayl, which runs out nfear three 
 Leagues into the Sea due Eaft ; at the End of it 
 ftands a Pole or Maft, fet up by the Trinity "houfe of 
 London, as a Sea-mark : this is called Shoe-beacofi^- 
 from the Point of Land, where this Sand begins, 
 which is called Shocherry-nefs, from a Town of that 
 N-ame, which ftands by it. From this Sand, and on 
 the Edge of Shoeberry, before it, or South-weft of 
 it, all along, to the Mouth of Colchejier-water, the 
 Shore is full of Shoals and Sands, with fome deep 
 Chanels between ; all which are fo full of Fifli, 
 that the Barking Smacks are well employed here, 
 and the Shore fwarms, befides,. with fmall Fiflier- 
 boats, belonging to the Villages and Towns on the 
 Coaft, which come in every Tide with what they 
 take : and felling the fmaller Fifti in the Country, 
 fend the beft and largeft upon Horfes, which travel 
 Night and Day to London Market, 
 
 On this Shore alfo are taken the beft and moft 
 relifliing, tho' not the largeft, Oyfters in England : 
 The Spot from whence they have their Appellation is 
 a-little Bank cajled Woeljieet, in the Mouth of the 
 
 B 4 River^ 
 
S T O U R thro' ElTex-. 
 
 River Crouch^ called Crookfea-water ; but the chief 
 Place where thefe Oyfters arc now had, is from 
 Wyvenhoe^ and the Shores adjacent, whither they are 
 brought by the Fifliermen, who take them at the 
 Mouth of Cokhejier-water, and about the Sand they 
 call the Spits, and carry them up to Wyvenhoe, 
 where they are laid in Beds or Pits on the Shore to 
 feed, as they call it ; and then being barrelled up, 
 and cartied to ColcheJ}er\ which is but three Miles 
 olF, they are fent to London by Land, and are from 
 thence called Colchejier Oyfters. 
 
 They take alfo here fine Soals, which generally 
 yield a good Price at London Market : alfo fome- 
 times middling Turbut, with Whitings, Codling, 
 and large Flounders. 
 
 In the feveral Creeks and Openings, on this Shore, 
 are alfo other Iflands, but of no great Note, except 
 Merfey^ which lies between the two Openings of 
 Maiden-water and Colchejier -water \ and is a Place 
 of fuch difficult Accefs, that 'tis thought a thoufand 
 Men might keep Pofleffion of it againft a great Force, 
 whether by Land or Sea. On this account, and 
 becaufe if pofleffed by an Enemy, it would fliut.up 
 all the Navigation and Fifhery on that Side, a Fort 
 was built on the South-eaft Point of it ; and gene- 
 rally, in a !)«/<: War, a ftrong Garifon is kept there 
 to defend it. 
 
 At this Place may be faid to end, what we call 
 the Three Hundreds of EJfex^ which include the 
 marlhy Country, vi%. Barjiable Hundred, Rochejier 
 Hundred, and Dengy Hundred. 
 
 One thing deferves mention here ; which is, 
 That all along this County it is very frequent to 
 meet with Men that have had from Five or Six, to 
 Fourteen or Fifteen Wives ; and I was informed, that 
 in the Marfhes, over-againft Candy IJland, was a 
 Farmer, who was then living with the five-and- 
 twentieth ; and that his Son, who was but Thirty- 
 five 
 
Great Britain. 
 
 9 
 
 five Years old, had already had about Fourteen. In- 
 deed, this Part of the Story I only had by Report, 
 tho' from good Hands : but the other is well known, 
 and will be attefted, about Fobbing, Curringham^ 
 Thunder jly , Benfleet, Prittlewell, IVakering, Great 
 Stambridge, Cridfea, Burnham, Dengy, and other 
 Towns of the like Situation : the Reafon, as a 
 merry Fellow told me, who faid he had had about 
 a Dozen, was this. That they being bred in the 
 Marflies themfelves, and feafoned to the Place, did 
 pretty well ; but that they generally chofe to leave 
 their own LalTes to their Neighbours out of the 
 Marflies, and went into the Uplands for a Wife : 
 That when they took the young Women out of the 
 wholfome frefli Air, they were clear and healthy ; 
 but when they came into the Marflies among the- 
 Fogsand Damps, they prefently changed Complexion, 
 got an Ague or two, and feldom held it above 
 half a Year, or a Year at moft : And then, faid 
 he, we go to the Uplands again, and fetch another. 
 So that marrying of Wives was reckoned a kind of 
 good Farm to them. Nor do the Men in thefe 
 Parts hold it out, as in other Countries ; for we 
 feldom meet with very ancient People among the 
 Poor ; infomuch, that hardly one half of the In- 
 habitants are Natives of the Place ; but fuch as come 
 from other Parts for the Advantage of good Farms. 
 
 From the Marflies and low Grounds, being not 
 able to travel without many Windings and Inden- 
 tures, by reafon of the Creeks and Waters, I came 
 up to the antient Town of Maiden, fituate at tlie 
 Conflux of two principal Rivers, the Chelmer and 
 the Black-water, where they enter into the Sea. 
 It is built in the Form of a Crofs, is a Liberty in itfelf, 
 and has a convenient Haven for Ships ; it conUflis of 
 one Street near a Mile long, befides Lanes, ^r. It is 
 governed by Two Bailiff^s, Aldermen, Steward, Re- 
 corder, i^c. Here is a good publick^ Library, for 
 
 5B 
 
 the 
 
10 ^ T O U R thro' EfTex.. 
 
 the Ufe of the Minifter and the Clergy of the Hun- 
 dreds adjoining to the Sea, and any Gentleman may 
 borrow a Book, upon depofiting the Value of it. 
 
 The Chanel called Maiden-water is' navigable to 
 the Town ; where, by that means, is a great Trade 
 for carrying Corn by Water to London ; the Coun- 
 ty of EJfex being (efpecially on that Side) a great 
 Corn Country. King Edward the Elder refided^ 
 here vvhilft he built the Town and Caftle of Witham^ 
 in this County, and alfo Hertford Caftle. 
 
 Maiden was a Roman Colony, which Camden 
 diffidently conjectures to be the antient Camalodunum. 
 But Mr. Salmon will have it to be the Villa Faujliniy 
 which has been fo long attributed to St. Edmund' s- 
 hury : but however that be, it was here the Bri- 
 tons, under the valiant Qiieen Boadicea, cut in 
 Pieces the tenth Legion, killed above 80,000 Ro- 
 mans, and deflroyed the Colony ; bat (he was after- 
 wards overthrown herfelf in a great Battle, 6e,ooo 
 Britons flain, and herfelf and Daughters moft in- 
 humanly treated and difgraced, by thofe great Re- 
 formers of the World, who, in her Cafe, forgot not 
 only the Honour due to the Sex, but that which 
 the truly Brave (hew to the Brave in Misfortune. 
 
 Being obliged to come thus far into the Uplands, 
 I made it my Road to pafs thro' fFitham, built, as I 
 mentioned, by Edward the Elder. 'Tis a pleafant, 
 well-fituated Market-town, in which, and in its 
 Neighbourhood, are many Gentlemen of good For- 
 tunes and Families. 
 
 Nearer Chelmsford, hard by Boreham, is the fa- 
 mous Seat of Beaulieu, in which King Henry Vni. 
 very much delighted. It is the largeft Edifice in the 
 County next Audley-end, where lived the late Lord 
 Vifcount Barrington, who had the Advantage to 
 be twice made Heir to the Eftates of Gentlemen 
 not at all related to him, at leaft one of them, as is 
 mentioned in his Patent of Creation, He changed 
 
 the 
 
Efc. Great Britain. n 
 
 the Name ofShute for that of Barrlngton, by an 
 
 of Parliament, and had the Dignities of a Baron and- 
 
 Vifcount oi Ireland conferred on him hy lL. Geo. I. 
 
 The Produa of all this Part of the Country is 
 Corn, as that of thl marfhy feeding Grounds is 
 Grafs, where their chief Bufmefs is breeding of Calves, , 
 which I need not fay are the beft and fattcft, and the 
 largeft Veal in England^ if not in the World. 
 
 Kehedon, or, as it is commonly called, Keldon^ 
 lies within three Miles of Witjoam ; which, as it is 
 faid, derives its Name from ^///-D^zw^, tlieMafiacre 
 of the Danes being begun here by the Women j but 
 as neither Mr. Camden nor any Author of Credit 
 mentions it, I think the Story is not to be heeded. 
 
 Colchejier^ the Iciani of the Romans, according, 
 to Mr. Salmon, is pleafantly fituated upon an Emi- 
 nence above the River Coin. It is a large and 
 populous Town, adorned with handfome Streets, 
 and, tho' it cannot be faid to be finely built, yet 
 there are abundance of good Houfes in it. In 
 the Conclufion of the late'Civil War it fufFered a 
 fevere Siege ; which, as it made a refolute Defence, 
 was turned into a Blockade, wherein the Garifon, 
 and Inhabitants alfo, fufFered the utmoft Extremity 
 of Hunger, and were at laft obliged to furrender at 
 Difcretion ; when their two chief Officers, Sir 
 Charles Lucas, and Sir George Lijle, were fhot to 
 Death under the Caftle-wall. 
 
 The battered Walls, the Breaches in the Turrets, 
 and the ruined Churches, ftill (hew Marks of this 
 Siege, except that the Church of St. Mary (where 
 they had the Royal Fort) is rebuilt ; but the Steeple, 
 which was Two-thirds battered down, (the Befieged 
 having a large Culverin upon it, which did much 
 Execution) remains (fill in that Condition. 
 
 The Lines of Contravallation, which furrounded 
 the whole Town, and the Forts of the Befiegers, 
 remain very vifible in many Places. 
 
 B 6 The 
 
12 ^ T O U R thro' EfTex. 
 
 The River Coln^ which pafles through the Town, 
 encompafTes it on the North and Eaft ; and ferved, 
 in Times of War, for a complete Defence on thofe 
 Sides. There are three Bridges over it, and it is 
 navigable within three Mile? of the Town, for 
 Ships of large Burden ; a little lower it may receive 
 even a Royal Navy : and up to that Part called the 
 Hithe^ clofe to the Houfes, it is navigable for Hoys 
 and fmall Barks ; for which it is indebted to three 
 A&s of Parliament pafled for that purpofe, one in 
 the Reign of King William 111. one in that of 
 King George I. and the other in that of King 
 George-W. 
 
 This Hithe is a long Street, pafling from Weft to 
 Eaft, on the South-fide of the Town, and is fo po- 
 pulous towards the River, that it may be called. The 
 IVapping of Colchejier. There is one Church in 
 that Part of the Town, a large Quay by the River, 
 and a good Cuftom-houfe. 
 
 The Town chiefly fubfifts by the Trade of making 
 .Bays, tho' indeed all the Towns around carry on the 
 iame Trade; zsKelvedon^ TVitham, CoggJhallyBrain- 
 iree. Backing, &c. and the whole County, large as 
 it is, may be faid to be employed, and in Part 
 maintained, by the Spinning of Wool, for the Bay- 
 Trade of Colchejier, and its adjacent Towns. 
 
 The Town of Colchejier has been fuppofed to con- 
 tain about 40,000 People, including the Out-vil- 
 lages within its Liberty, of which there are a great 
 many, the Liberty of the Town being of a large 
 Extent. The Government is by a Mayor, High- 
 Steward, a Recorder or his Deputy, Eleven Alder- 
 men, a Chamberlain, a Town-clerk, Afliftants, 
 and Eighteen Common-council-men. 
 
 There are in Colchejier Eight Churches, befides 
 thofe which are damaged, and Five Meeting-houfes, 
 whereof two for Quakers ; befides one Dutch, and 
 one Fremh Church, Its other publick Edifices are, 
 
 I, Bay- 
 
EfTex. Great Britain. 
 
 1 . Bay-hall^where the Goodnefs of the Manufa£}:ure 
 of Bays made in this Town is afcertained by a Corpo- 
 ration eftabhflied for this Purpofe, confifting of a Set 
 of Men, called Governors of the Dutch Bay-hall. 
 
 2. The Guild-hall of the Town, called by them 
 the Moot-hall ; contiguous to which is theT'own-gaoJ. 
 
 3. The Work-houfe for the Poor, which has been 
 inlarged of late Years. 
 
 4. A Grammar Free-fchool ; which has good Al- 
 lowance to the Mafter, who ischofen by the Town. 
 
 5. The Cajile of Colchejier is a Monument of the 
 Antiquity of the Place, it being built, as the Walls 
 of the Town alfo are, with Roman Bricks ; and the 
 Roman Qowi'i dug up here, and ploughed up in the 
 Fields adjoining, confirm it. The Inhabitants boaft 
 much, that Helena^ the Mother of Conjiantine the 
 Great, firft Chriftian Emperor of the Romans, was 
 born there : but it would be hard to make it out ; 
 and indeed, were it our Bufinefs, we could produce 
 ftrong Proofs to the contrary. Mr. Camden fays. 
 That this Caftle was, in his Time, ready to fall with 
 Age ; and yet it has ftood above 120 Years fince, 
 and perhaps is not much worfe than it was then, 
 aitho' it received feveral Cannon Shot in the laft 
 Siege of the Town, which made no Impreffion 
 upon it, as the Befiegers found, and therefore left 
 off firing againft it, and the rather, as the Gat ifon 
 made no great Ufe of it againft them. The Queen's 
 Head in the Market-place, and the Stable, are alfo 
 Roman Buildings. There was likewife a Roman 
 Military Way from Colchejier, by Bramtree, Dun- 
 mow, and farther that Way. ' 
 
 There are two Charity-Schools fet up here^ 
 and carried on by a generous Subfcription, with vei y 
 good Succefs. 
 
 From Colchejier I took a Turn down to the 
 Coaft. The Land running out a great way into 
 the Sea, South, and South-eaft, makes that Pro- 
 montory 
 
14.' ATOURfbro ElTex; 
 
 montory of Land, called the Nafe, well-known to 
 Seamen who ufe the Northern Trade. Here one 
 fee§ a Sea open as an Ocean, without any oppofite 
 Shore, tho' it be no more than the Mouth of the 
 Thames. This Point, called the Nafe, and the 
 North-eaft Point of Kef2t, near Margate, called the 
 North- Foreland, make the Mouth of the River, and 
 the Port of London, tho' it be here above 60 Miles 
 over. 
 
 But as it is pretended by Tome, that according to 
 the prefenfUfage of the Cujiom-houfe, the Port of 
 London is not allowed to extend fo far ; 'tis thought 
 proper to infert the Claufe taken from the Afl of 
 Parliament, eftablifhing the Extent of that Port. 
 
 *' To prevent all future Differences an'd Difputes, 
 ** touching the Extent and Limits of the Port of 
 '* London, the {zid Port is declared to extend, and 
 ** be accounted from the Promontory, or Point, 
 
 called the North- Foreland, in the lile of Thanety 
 
 and from thence Northward, in a right Line, to 
 " the Point called theNASE, beyond the Gunfieet,, 
 *' upon the Coaft of Ejfex ; and fo continued w eft- 
 <* ward throughout the River T^^7?/z^j, and the feve- 
 
 ral Chanels, Streams and Rivers falling into it, 
 *' to London-bridge ; faving the ufual and known 
 " Rights, Liberties and Privileges of the Ports of 
 " Sandwich and Ipfwich, and either of them, and 
 ** the known Members thereof, and of the Cuftom- 
 " ers. Comptrollers, Searchers, and their Deputies, 
 ** of and within the faid Ports of Sandwich, and 
 
 Ipfwich, and the feveral Creeks, Harbours and 
 " Havens, to them, or either of them, refpcdtively 
 " belonging, within the Counties of Kent and 
 " EJexy 
 
 Notwithftanding which, the Port of London, as 
 in Ufe fmce the faid Order, is underftood to reach 
 no farther than Grave/end in Kent^ and Tilbury-point 
 
 in 
 
Ellex. Gr E A T B R I T A I N. rj; 
 
 in EJfex ; and the Ports of Rochejier^ Milton, and 
 Fever Jham, belong to the Port of Sandwich. 
 
 In like manner xht. Yoxt% oi Harwich ^ Colchejier^. 
 Wyvenhoey Maiden, Leigh, &c. are faid to be Mem- 
 bers of the Port of Ipfwich, 
 
 This Obfervation may fuffice for what is needful 
 to be faid upon the fame Subjeft, . when I come to 
 fpeak of the Port of •S'^w^wzV^, and its Members, 
 and their Privileges with refpeft to Rochejier, Milton^ 
 Fever/ham, &c. in my Circuit thro' the County of 
 Kent. ^ 
 
 At Walton, under the Nafe, they find on the 
 Shore Copperas-ftones in great Quantities ; and 
 there are feveral large Works called Copperas-houfesj 
 where 'tis made with great Expence, 
 
 On the North- Foreland is a new Mark, erefted 
 by the Trinity- houfe Men, at the publick Expence, 
 being a round Brick Tower, near 80 Feet higli. 
 The Sea gains fo much upon the Land here, by the 
 continual Winds at South-weft, that within the 
 Memory of fome of the Inhabitants, above 30 Acres 
 of Land have been loft in one Place. 
 
 From hence we go back into the County about 
 four Miles, becaufe of the Creeks which lie between ; 
 and turning Eaft again, come to Harwich, on the 
 utmoft Eaftern Point of this large County. 
 
 Harwich is a Town, ftrong by Situation, and 
 may be made more fo by Art. The Harbour or 
 Road is one of the fecureft in England, and covered 
 at the Entrance by Landguard-fort, and a Bat- 
 tery of Guns to the Seaward, juft ' as at Tilbury, 
 and which fufficiently defend the Mouth of the 
 River. Tho' the Entrance or Opening of the 
 River into the Sea is very wide, efpecially at 
 High-water, at leaft two Miles, if not three, 
 over; yet the Chanel, in which the Ships muft keep 
 and come to the Harbour, is deep, narrow, and lies 
 only on the Side of the Fort 3 fo that all the Ships 
 
 which 
 
i6 ^ TOUR thrd Eflex. 
 
 which come in, or go out, muft come within Gun- 
 ftiot of the Fort. 
 
 The Fort is on the Suffolk Side of the Bay, but 
 ftands fo far into the Sea, upon the Point of a Sand 
 or Shoal running out towards the Ejfex Side, that, 
 in a manner, it covers the Mouth of the Haven ; 
 and our Surveyors of the Country affirm it to be in 
 the County of EJfex. The making this Placcj 
 which was formerly no other than a Sand in the Sea, 
 folid enough for the Foundation of fo good a Fortifi- 
 cation, coft many Years Labour, frequent Repairs, 
 and a prodigious Expence ; but 'tis now fo firm, that 
 neither Storms nor Tides afFeft it. 
 
 The Harbour is of a vaft Extent ; for the River 
 ^tour from Mantngtree, and River Orwel from 
 Ipfwich, empty themfelves here ; and the Chanels of 
 both are large and deep, and fafe for all Weathers ; 
 and where they join, they make a large Bay, or 
 Road, able to receive the biggefl: Ships of War, and 
 the greateft Number that ever the World faw to- 
 gether. In the DutchV^dir, great Ufe was made of 
 this Harbour ; and there have been i oo Sail of Men 
 of War with their Attendants, and between 3 and 
 400 Sail of Colliers, all riding in it at a time, with 
 great Safety and Convenience. 
 
 Harwich is the Port where the Packet-boats be- 
 tween England and Holla7td, go out and come in : 
 the Inhabitants are far from being famed for good 
 Ufage to Strangers, but on the contrary, are efteemed 
 a little extravagant in their Reckonings, in the Pub- 
 lick-houfes ; this has encouraged the fetting up of 
 Sloops, which they now call Paffage-boats, to go 
 diredly from the River of Thames to Holland : tho' 
 the PalTage may be fomething longer, yet the 
 Matters of the Sloops are faid to be more obliging 
 to Paffengers, and more reafonable, in the Expence, 
 and the Veflels good Sea-boats. Harwich has been a 
 Sufferer on this Account. . 
 
 The 
 
Effex. Gre at Britain. 17 
 
 The People of Harwich boaft, that their Town is 
 walled, and their Streets paved with Cla}', and yet 
 that one is as ftrong, and the other as clean, as thofe 
 that are built or paved with Stone. The Fadl is 
 indeed true ; for there is a fort of Clay in the Cliff, 
 between the Town and the Beacon-hill adjoining^ 
 which, when it falls down into the Sea, where it is 
 beaten with the Waves and the Weather, turns gra- 
 dually into Stone. But the chief Reafon affigned 
 is from the Water of a certain Spring or Well, which 
 rifing in the Cliff, runs down into the Sea among 
 thofe Pieces of Clay, and petrifies them as it runs ; 
 and the Force of the Sea often ftirring, and perhaps 
 turning the Lumps of Clay, when Storms of Wind 
 may give Force enough to the Water, caufes them 
 to harden every- where alike ; otherwife thofe which 
 were not quite funk in the Water of the Spring, 
 would be petrify'd but in part. Thefe Stones are 
 gathered up to pave the Streets, and build theHoufes, 
 and are indeed very hard. 'Tis alfo remarkable, 
 that fome of them, taken up before they are thoroughly 
 petrify'd, will, upon breaking them, appear to be 
 hard as a Stone without, and foft as Clay in the 
 Middle ; whereas others, that have lain a due time, 
 ftiall be thorough Stone to the Centre, and full as 
 hard within as without. The fame Spring is faid to 
 turn Wood into Iron : but this I take to be no more 
 or lefs than the Quality, which (as I mentioned of 
 the Shore at the Nefs) is found to be in much of 
 the Stone along this Shore, of the Copperas Kind : 
 and 'tis certain, that the Copperas-Jione (fo called) is 
 ^ found in all that Cliff, and even where the Water of 
 this Spring has run ; and I prefume, that thofe who 
 call the hardened Pieces of Wood, which they take 
 out of this Well, by the Name of Iron, never 
 tried the Quality of it with the Fire or Hammer ; 
 if they had, it is not unlikely, that they would have 
 given fome other Account of it. 
 
i8 A TOVR thro' Efc. 
 
 On the Promontory of Land, which they call 
 Beacon- hi/I, which lies beyond or behind the Town, 
 toward the Sea, is a Light-houfe, to give the Ships 
 Direction in their failing by, as well as their coming 
 into the Harbour at Night. 
 
 This Town was formerly fortify'd ; but in the 
 Reign of King Charles I. the Fortifications were 
 demolifhed. It has fmce been ordered to be fortify'd 
 again, and Ground has been bought accordingly, to 
 the King's Ufe,- by A<51 of Parliament : but there is 
 nothing more done in it yet ; and indeed it is many 
 Years fmce the Government, having a better Secu- 
 rity in the Bi itijh Shipping, have had Occafion to 
 fortify Towns to the Landward. 
 
 It was incorporated in the 13th of Edward IL 
 The HarwichlS/len pretended a Grant from Edw, IIL 
 to take Cuftom-duties for Goods coming into the 
 Haven, till on a Complaint made by the Town of 
 Ipfwich, that it was an Infringement upon their Li- 
 berties, an Inquifition was appointed by that Prince 
 at Ipfwlch in the 14th of his Reign, by which it was 
 determined againft Harwich, in favour of Ipfwich. 
 
 Harwich^ after all, may be faid to be a neat, clean^, 
 well-built Town, enjoys a good Maritime Trade, is 
 governed by a Mayor, bfc. has a Market every Tuef- 
 day and Friday, and two annual Fairs, one on May- 
 day, the other on OSiober the i8th. 
 
 Landguard-fort was built in the Reign of King 
 'James I. and was a much more confiderable Forti- 
 fication than at prefent ; having had four Baftions, 
 named the King's, the ^een's, Holland's, and 
 JVarwick's, mounted with 60 very large Guns, par- 
 ticularly thofe on the Royal Bajiion, where the 
 King's Standard was difplay'd, which would throw 
 a 28 Pound Ball over Harwich ; and it had a con^ 
 ftant Garifon, with a Chapel and many Houfes, for 
 the Governor, Gunners, and other Officers. But it 
 bas been demolifhed^and a fmall Platfoiyn made inftead 
 
Effex. Great Britain. 19 
 
 of It by the Water-fide ; but yet, as the particular 
 Current of the Chanel, which Ships muft keep in, 
 as I have faid, obliges them to pafs juft by the Fort, 
 the Harbour is fufficiently defended on the Sea-fide 
 from fudden Invafion. 
 
 And now, being at the Extremity of the County 
 of EJ]ex^ of which I have given you fome View, 
 as to that Side next the Sea only ; I fhall conclude 
 this Part of my Circuit, by telhng you, that I will 
 take the Towns which lie more towards the Centre 
 of the County, in my Return by the North and 
 Weft Part, that I may give you a few Hints of 
 fome Towns which were near me in my Rout this 
 way. 
 
 On the Road from London to Colchejler^ before 1. 
 cime into it at Witham^ lie four good Market- 
 towns at near equal Diftance from one another; 
 vl%. Rumford^ Brentwood^ Ingatjione^znd. Chelmsford. 
 Rumford ftands firft, and is noted for two Markets, 
 one for Calves and Hogs, the other for Corn and 
 other Provifions, moftly bought up for London 
 Market. 
 
 At the farther End of this Town, in the Middle 
 of a ftately Park, flood Guldy-hall, v\x\g^r\y Giddy- 
 hall^ an antient Seat of one Sir Thomas Coke, Lord- 
 Mayor of London Anno 1462. in; the Reign of 
 Edward IV. whofe great Riches being his principal 
 Crime, expofed him in bad Times to fo great Suf- 
 ferings, that tho' he was acquitted, by the In- 
 tegrity of his Judge, of the Crimes laid to his 
 Charge, yet he was fined to the Value very nearly 
 of his whole Eftate. It is fince pulled down to the 
 Ground, and there now ftands a ftately Minfion- 
 houfe, built upon the Spot by Sir 'John Eyles, lately 
 Lord- Mayor of London. 
 
 Brentwood and tngatjlone are two others, and are 
 large thorough-fare Towns, full of good Inns, 
 chiefly maintained by the Multitude of Carriers and=: 
 
 Paflengersj, 
 
20 T O U R thro' Effex; 
 
 Paffengers, conftantly palling this Way to London, 
 with Droves of Cattle, Provifions and Manufactures. 
 
 Chelmsford is the 4th, chiefly fupported by the 
 fame Buiinefs. It is the County-town, where the 
 A/Iizes are often held, and ftands on the Conflux of 
 two Rivers, the Chelmer, whence the Town derives 
 its Name, and the Cann; and has agood Free-fchool 
 belonging to it. 
 
 South-eaft of Brentwood lies Billiricay, a pretty 
 confiderable Market- town. 
 
 Near Chelmsford ftands a Seat of the Right Ho- 
 nourable the Earl of Fitzwalter, which is feen on 
 the Left-hand of the Road, jufl: before you enter 
 the Town. The Houfe is large, and hath been 
 lately new fronted, fo that it makes a handfome 
 Appearance. There are alfo feveral new Planta- 
 tions about it, and in time, if his Lordfhip con- 
 tinues his Defign of improving it, it will become a 
 fine Seat. 
 
 I (hall take notice, in my Return through thefe 
 Parts, of the noble Seat of the Lord Petre, and his 
 Lordlhip's great Improvements in this County. 
 
 At Lees, or Lee's- Priory, as fome call it, is to be 
 feen an antient Houfe, in the Middle of a beautiful 
 Park, formerly the Seat of the Duke of Manchejier ; 
 but after the Death of the Duke it was fold to the 
 Duchefs Dowager of Buckinghamjhire, and fince 
 purchafed by Mr. Hoare. 
 
 Five Market- towns fill up the reft of this Part of 
 the Country ; Dunmow, Braintree, "Thaxted, Hal- 
 Ji'ed, and Coggjhall ; all noted for the Manufa£lure 
 of Bays, But Dunmow I muft particularly mention, 
 on account of its famous old Story of its Flitch of 
 Bacon ; which is this : 
 
 One Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful Baron in this 
 County, in the Time of Henry III. inftituted a 
 Cuftom in the Priory here ; That whatever married 
 JUan did not repent of his. being married, or differ and 
 
 difpute 
 
Effex. Great Britain. 2i 
 
 difpute with his Wife within a Tear and a Day after 
 his Marriage^ and would fwear to the Truth of^ it^ 
 kneeling upon two hard pointed Stones in the Priory 
 Church-yard, [et up for that Purpofe^ in Prefence of 
 the Prior and Convent, fuch Perfon fhould have a 
 Flitch of Bacon, 
 
 This has been a£lually claimed and received, as 
 appears by Record there ; but the Priory being dif- 
 folved, there is an End of the FHtch ; and it were 
 well, if no worfe Confequence had attended the Dif- 
 folution of Religious Houfes. For as there was no 
 Danger of many Claimants, there were the fewer 
 to regret the Lofs. 
 
 Of Braintree and Backing I ftiall take notice in 
 ■my Return to London. 
 
 Formerly, 'tis thought, the Forefts of and 
 Henault took up all the South Part of the County i 
 but particularly we are alTured, that it reached to 
 the River Chelmer, and into Dengy Hundred ; and 
 from thence again Weft to Epping and JValthatn, 
 where it continues to be a Foreft ftill. 
 
 Probably that of Epping has been a Weald or Foreft 
 ever fmce this Ifland has been inhabited, and may 
 (hew us, in fome Parts of it, where Inclofures and 
 Tillage have not broke in upon it, what the general 
 Face of this Ifland was, before the Romans landed 
 in Britain. 
 
 The Conftitution of this Foreft is beft feen, as to 
 its Antiquity, by the pleafant Grant of it from 
 Edward the Confeffor, before the Norman Conqueft, 
 to Randolph Peperking, one of his Favourites, who 
 was after called Peverell, and whofe Name remains 
 ftili in feveral Villages in this County ; as particu- 
 larly that of Hatfield Peverell, in the Road from 
 Chelmsford to Witham, which is fuppofed to be 
 originally a Park (called a Field in thofe Days) ; 
 and Hartfield may be as much as to fay, a Park for 
 Deer , for the Stags were in thofe Days called Harts ; 
 
22 
 
 ^ T O U R tbro' Suffolk. 
 
 fo that this was neither more n®r lefs than Randolph 
 Peperking's Hart-field^ or Deer-park, 
 
 This Randolph or Ralph Peverell had, it feems, 
 a beautiful Lady to his Wife, who was Daughter of 
 Ingelrick^ one of Edward the Co77fe£or's Noblemen : 
 He had two Sons by her, IVUllam Peverell^ a famed 
 Soldier, and Lord or Governor of Do'uer-cajile ; 
 which he furrendered to William the Conqueror^ after 
 the Battle in Suffix ; and Pain Peverell, his youngeft, 
 who was Lord of Cambridge, When theeldeft Son 
 delivered up the Caftle, the Lady above-named was 
 there ; and the Conqueror fell in Love with her, 
 and had a Son by her, who was called William^ 
 after the Conqueror's Chriftian Name, but retained 
 the Name of Peverell, and was afterwards, as Hi- 
 ftory acquaints us, created by the Conqueror Lord of 
 Nottingham, 
 
 This Lady, as is fu^pofed, by way of Penance for 
 her Frailty, founded a Nunnery at the Village of 
 Hatfield- Peverell, mentioned above, where ftie lies 
 buried in the Parifh- church, and her Memory is 
 preferved by aTombftone under one of the Windows* 
 The Grant I have mentioned being to be found in 
 Camden, I ftiall not tranfcribe it here. 
 
 I fhall now, in purfuance of my firft Defign, pro- 
 ceed to the County of Suffolk. 
 
 From Harwich therefore, having a mind to view 
 the Harbour, I fent my Horfes round by Maning- 
 tree, a good, but dirty Market-town, where there 
 is a Timber-bridge over the Stour, or, as it is more 
 iifually called, Maningtree-water ; and took a Boat 
 for Ipfwich up the River Orwel, known beft by the 
 Name of Ipfwich-water, by which Paffage {xomHar- 
 wich to Ipjwich, it is about twelve Miles. 
 
 In a Creek in this River called Lavington-creek^ 
 we faw at low Water fuch Shoals of Mufcles, that 
 great Boats might have loaded with them and the 
 
 Quantity 
 
Suffolk. G R E A T B R I T A I N. 2^ 
 
 Quantity fcarce diminiftied to the Eye. Near this 
 CteekSiY Samuel Barnardijion had a fine Seat, as alfo 
 a Decoy for wild Ducks, and a very noble Eftate ; 
 but it is divided into many Branches fince his Death. 
 
 Ipfwich is feated at the Diftance of 12 Miles from 
 Harwich^ upon the Edge of the River, which take- 
 ing a {hort Turn to the Weft, the Town forms 
 there a kind of Semi-circle, or Half-moon, upon 
 the Bank of the River. It is very remarkable, that 
 tho' Ships of 500 Tuns may upon a Spring-tide come 
 up very near this Town, and many Ships of that 
 Burden have been built there 3 yet the River is fcarce 
 navigable above the Town, not even for the fmallefl: 
 Boats J nor does the Tide, which rifes fometimes 
 13 or 14 Feet, and gives them 24 Feet Water very 
 near the Town, flow much farther up the River 
 than the Town. 
 
 No Place in Britain is qualified like Ipfwich^ for 
 carrying on the Greenland Fifhery ; whether we re- 
 fpe<£t the Cheapnefs of building and fitting out their 
 Ships and Shalloops ; furniftiing, vi<5lualling, and 
 providing them with all kind of Stores ; Conveni- 
 ence for laying up the Ships after the Voyage ; Room 
 for erecting their Magazines, Ware-houfes, Roap- 
 walks. Cooperages, &e. on the eafieft Terms ; and 
 efpecially for the noifome Cookery, which attends the 
 foiling their Blubber, which may be on this River, 
 remote from any Places of Refort : then the Near- 
 nefs to the Market for the Oil, v/hen it is made, 
 and, which above all ought to be regarded, the 
 Conveniency that arifes from this Confideration, 
 that the fame Wind which carries them from the 
 Mouth of the Haven, is fair to the very Seas of 
 Greenland. 
 
 Ipfwich was formerly much more confiderable for 
 Trade than at prefent ; but yet it may be accounted 
 a very neat and well-built Town, and much larger 
 than many Cities ; carries on ftill a confiderable Ma- 
 ritime 
 
24 ATOVKfhro' SufFolk. 
 
 ritrme Trade; andtho' it is but thinly inhabited, to 
 what it has been, yet whoever looks into the Churches 
 and Meeting-houfes of a Sunday^ will not, even in 
 t]iis Particular, think fo meanly of it as fome have 
 done. 
 
 It has a very fpacious Market-place ; in the midfl: 
 of that is a fair Crofs, in which is the Corn-market. 
 Adjoining is the Shambles or Butchery, very com- 
 modious, and vulgarly, but erroneoufly, fuppofed 
 to have been built by Cardinal Wolfey ; for it 
 owes its Original to a much later Date, vi'z. to the 
 40th Year of Queen Elizabeth. Behind this is the 
 Herb-market, and in a fpacious Street a little diftant, 
 K a Market for Butter, Poultry, and other Country 
 Provifions, and another for Fifli, with which the 
 Town is ferved in great Plenty. It has five Market- 
 days weekly ; Tuefday and Thurfday for fmall Meat ; 
 IVednefday and Friday for Fifti ; and Saturday for all 
 forts of Provifions. It has alfo five annual Fairs j 
 one on April 23. one on May 7. and 8. one on 
 Julyi^. one on the nth and 12th of Augu/i for 
 Cattle alfo ; and the fifth on September 14. which 
 is a very confiderable one for Butter and Cheefe, 
 to which the whole Country round refort, to furnifh 
 tliemfelves with Winter Stores ; as do alfo many of 
 the London Dealers in thofe Commodities, who, 
 however, are not fuffered to buy till after the firft 
 three Days of the Fair. 
 
 There are even now in this Town 12 Parifti- 
 churches, out of 14, which there once were j and 
 two Chapels in the Corporation-liberty, out of 
 feveral which have been demolifhed, befides Meeting- 
 houfes, t^c. and it once abounded with Religious 
 Houfes, which have yielded to the Fate of the 
 Times. 
 
 Here is alfo a fair Town-hall, with a fpacious 
 Council-chamber, and other commodious Apart- 
 ments i a Shire-hall, where the County Seflions are 
 
 held 
 
SufFolk. GreatBritain. 
 
 held for the Divifion of Ipfwich ; a large publick 
 L&rary, adjoining to a noble Hofpital founded by 
 the Town, czWqA Chriji's Hofpital^ for the Mainte- 
 nance of Poor Children, old Perfons, Maniacks j 
 and in it Rogues, Vagabonds, and fturdy Beggars, are 
 kept to hard Labour. AJfo adjoining to this is a 
 good Free-fehool ; and there is like wife the noble 
 Foaiidation of Mr. Henry Teoly^ Anno 1556, foi,' 
 poo-r old Men and Women. 
 
 It is a Town Corporate, governed by two Bailiffs, 
 a Recorder, 12 Portmen, four of which, behdes the 
 Bailiff's, are Juftices of the Peace, two Coroners, 
 24 Cofiamon-council-men, who arealfo High-con-' 
 ftabies, and 12 of them Headboroughs, and 15 Petty 
 Conftables. 
 
 Its Privileges are extraordinary ; for the EailiiKj 
 pafs Fines and Recoveries, hear and determine Caufes^ 
 as well Criminal as Civil, arifing in the Town, and 
 even Crown Caufes, preferably to any of his Ma- 
 jefty's Courts at Wejiminjler, They appoint the 
 AfTize of Bread, Wine, Beer, ^c. No Freeman, 
 can be obliged to ferve on Juries out of the Town, 
 or bear any Offices for the King, without his own 
 Confent, Sheriffs for the County excepted. Nor arc? 
 they obliged to pay any Tolls or Duties in any othei: 
 Parts of the Kingdom, having caft the City of Lon-> 
 don in a Trml at Law for Duties demanded by the 
 City of Freemens Ships, in the River Thames, 
 They are intitled to all Waifs, Eftrays, l^c. to all 
 Goods caft on Shore within their Admiralty- Jurif- 
 diaion, v/hich extends on the Coaft of Ejfex be- 
 yond Harwich^ and on both Sides the Suffolk Coaft ; 
 and their Bailiffs even hold their Admiraltv-co.urt 
 beyond Z-^wr/^M^rci Fort, i3c. Ajid by a Yr ](.mn. 
 Decffion in their P'avour bv an Inquifition takeii at 
 Jfjwkh. in the 14th of Edward IIT. they caj-fied 
 the Pouu, vvl- ich Harwich with them, of 
 
 taking Cvffoin-duues for Goods coming intQ Har- 
 
^6 ./f T O U R tbro* Suffolk. 
 
 ^ich Haven, which was determined to belong folely 
 to the Bailiffs and Burgeffes of Ipfwtch, as I before 
 Jiinted. In King John's Reign, there was a Mint 
 in this Town. 
 
 J fhall juft mention, in this Place, tho* it be ge- 
 nerally known, that the famous Cardinal IVolfey^ 
 Archbifhop of Tork^ was born in this Town, his 
 Father being a Butcher in it, tho', according to 
 Pr. Fiddes, who publiftied his Will, he feems to 
 have been a Man of Subftance for thofe Times. This 
 Prelate rofe to the higheft Pitch of Honour and 
 Grandeur, that it was polTible for a Subje£l to attain 
 to, and was fuddenly ftripped of all, having been 
 caft in a Praemunire, whereby he incurr'd a Forfeiture 
 of all his Effe6ls and Preferments ; and being after- 
 wards par4oned and reftored to fome Part thereof, 
 particularly to the Archbifhoprick of Tork^ he was 
 ^rreftedfor High-Treafonat his Arch iepifcopal Palace 
 yitCa'Wood ip Torkjhlre ; and died at Leicejier Abbey, 
 as he was carrying to J^ondon, where he was buried. 
 
 The French Refugees, when they firft came over 
 to England began a little to take to this Place ; and 
 fome Merchants attempted to fet up a Linpn Ma- 
 nufacture in their Favour ; but it did not meet with 
 the expeded Succefs, and at prefent I find very lit- 
 tle of it. The poor People are however employ'd, 
 ?is they are all over thofe Counties, in fpinning 
 Wool! for other Towns where Mi^nufadtur^s are 
 
 fettled. . 
 
 The Country round Ipfxvkh^ as are all the Coun- 
 ties fo near the Coaft, is applied chiefly to Corn, of 
 which a very great Quantity is continually fhipped 
 off for London ; and fometimes they load Corn 
 her^ for Holland^ efpecially if the Market abroad is 
 pncouraging, 
 
 There is a great deal of very good Company m 
 thU 'Town > and tho' here are not fo many of the 
 Qentty as at Bwq, yet it has more than ^nj other 
 'J' .own in the County. I take 
 
Suffolk. Great Britai N. 27 
 
 I take this Town to be one of the mofl: ao-reeable 
 Places in England, for Families who have lived well , 
 but may be reduced to live within a narrow Com- 
 pafs ; for 
 
 1 . Here are good Houfes, at very eafy Rents. 
 
 2. An airy, clean, and well-govern'd Town, 
 
 3. Very agreeable and improving Company ' al- 
 moft of every Kind, 
 
 4. Plenty of all Manner of Provifions, whether 
 Fifli or Flefli, very good of the Kind, and very 
 cheap. ' 
 
 5. Eafy Paflage to London^ either by Land orWater 
 the Coach going thro' to London in a Day. ' 
 
 The Lord Vifcount Hereford had a very fine Seat 
 and Park in this Town ; thelioufe indeed was built 
 
 ^^'^y commodious ; 'tis 
 called Chrijl-church, and had been a Prior v, or Re- 
 ligious Houfe, in former Times. The dreen and 
 Park IS a great Addition to the Pleafantnefs of this 
 1 own, the Inhabitants being allowed to divert them- 
 felves there with Walking, Bowling, This'Seat 
 has been lately purchafed by, and is now in the Pof- 
 feffion of Claude Fanner eau, Efqj * 
 
 The Country round Ipfwich, is an inexhauftible 
 ^jtore-houfe of Timber ; of which, now their Trade 
 of building Ships is abated, they fend very Prcat 
 Quantities to the King's Building-yards at Chatham ; 
 which by Water is fo little a Way, that they often 
 run to it from the Mouth of the River at Harwich 
 in one Tide. 
 
 I cannot omit in this Place the following Account 
 T f cellent Charity for the Relief and Support of 
 the Widows and Orphans of poor Clergrym^n of 
 the County of Sufolk, which was beguri in the 
 jrear 1704. a voluntary Subfcription of a fmall 
 
 IpfwKh an4 Woodhrtdge, and has fince that Time 
 beencgrned on wth Tuch great 3ucgefs, tliat the 
 
J 8 T O U R thro' Suffolk; 
 
 yearly Collc£llon, which in 1704. was but 6 /. by 
 srradual Advances eveiy Year, amounted in the Year 
 174G. to 312/. ^s. bcL and in the Whole 37 
 
 ears to the Sum of 4416 I. g s. g d. 
 
 Befides the yearly Subfcriptions, there have been 
 divers Gifts and Legacies given to the faid Society, 
 to the Ufes above-mentioned, to the ^Amount of 
 cr 4. /. 175. So much of which is laid out in South- 
 'i'!-.f Annuities, and kept for raifmg a capital Stock 
 for the general Benefit of the Charity ; and the In- 
 tereft arifing^ from it hath been, and ftill is, every 
 Ycv^r applied to the Relief and Support of the faid 
 Widows and Orphans, that they may not mourn 
 without a Comforter, and thattheSons and Daughters 
 of the poor Clergy intitled to this Relief, may not 
 be fufFcre(.l to wander as Vagabonds up and down the 
 Earth, expofed to thofe Miferies and Temptations 
 which attend upon extreme Poverty. 
 
 From Ipfiuich I took a Turn to Hadley, famous 
 for the Martyrdom of Dr. Rowland Taylor, who 
 was burnt at Aldham Common, Anno 1555. On the 
 Plice where he was martyr'd, I obferved a Stone, 
 V jih this Infcription : 
 
 Anno 1555- 
 Br. Taylor, for defending what was good, 
 Jn this Place 'jhed his Blood, 
 
 It lias been a Town Corporate, governed by a 
 Mnvor, y'r. But a ^40 Warranto being brought 
 a^p.'inft their Charter, in tjie Reign of King JomesU. 
 k h^ not been renewed fmce. Here arc two weekly 
 Tvl iikets, and two annual Fairs, It deals rauch m 
 Co'-P aiKi abounds with aP. manner of Provifions. 
 THc Tow;i is larger and tolerably well built ; but 
 bciu'^ in a Bottom, is generally dirty. Its Cnurch is 
 ^ vmv b^nafome Building;' graced with a Spirc 
 It^epji^/iiud bving aear the Mi4JIe ot the Toa^h, 
 
Suffolk. GREAt B riTain. 
 
 •an Ornament to it. 'Tis of feme Note ftill for the 
 Manufa6lure of Woollen Cloths, but not fo much 
 as formerly. 
 
 A little to the South-weft lies Ncyland^ a large 
 Market-town, in a Bottom, upon the Stour \ o\'er 
 which is a very good Bridge. The Bays- trade is car- 
 ried on here too. 
 
 Higher up to the North- Weft, upon the fame 
 River, ftands Sudbury, fituate on the Stottr ; which 
 'is now made navigable for Barges from Maningiree 
 hither, and gives a great Addition to their l>ade. 
 It is a very antient Town, governed by a Mayor, 
 and at prefent confifts of three diftin£l: Pariilics, 
 which have each a handfome and large Church ; 
 the Names of which are St. Gregory^ St. Petcr^s, 
 ■and All-Saints ; tho' St. Peterh is rather a Chapel nf 
 Eafe to St. Gregory^s. This Town is pretty well 
 built, but the Streets, being unpaved, are dirtV. 1c 
 has an handfome Bridge over the Stour, leadijiginto 
 £j/ex. This Town was one of the firft Pir.ccs 
 where King £'<:/it'^7r^ III. placed the Flemings, wJicni 
 he allured hither to i^d^ch th? EnsUlh the Art cf 
 manufa£luring their own Wool, of Vv'hich bcfcre 
 they knew nothing j and here the Woollen 'i r 
 hath continued ever fince in a flourifning Wa-/. 
 The Inhabitants at prefent employ themitlves ia 
 making Sajs, Perpetuanas, l3c. 
 
 Simon Theobald, furnamed Sudbury, Archbiflicp 
 of Canterlmry, tranflated thither from London Anno 
 1375. was a Native of this Town. He was mur- 
 dered at the Inftigation of one John Ball, a feditioi s 
 and fanatical Preacher in Wat Tyler's Rebellion. 
 He was a Prelate of very good Charaaer for Learn- 
 ing and Charity. He built the Upper-end of St. 
 Gregory's Church in Sudbury, where his Head is 
 ftill ftiewn: it was, not long fmce, intire, covered 
 with the Flefli and Skin dried by Art, the Mou^h 
 WKle open, occafioned by Convulfions thro' the liard 
 C 3 Death 
 
50 T O U R tM Suffolk. 
 
 Death he died, having fufFered eight Blows before 
 his Head was cut off. He founded in the Place 
 where his Father's Houfe flood, a neat College, 
 v/hich he furniflied with Secular Priefts, and other 
 Minifters, and likewife endowed it bountifully. 
 
 Near Sudbury is Melford, a pleafant Village, 
 and perhaps the largeft in England, being about 
 a Mile in Length. The Church is a very- 
 fine Edifice, and ftands at the North-end of it. 
 There were two Chantries in it. Weaver fays. 
 That on fome Part of the Outfide of the Church are 
 thefe Words : Pray for the Souls of John Clopton, 
 and Richard Boteler, of whofe Goodys this Chapel 
 •was built ; and that feveral of the antient Family of 
 Clopton are there buried. This Town has given 
 two Lord Mayors to London, Sir John Milburn, 
 Draper, in 152 1. and Sir Roger Martin, Mercer, ia 
 1*567. It has an annual Fair, divers good Inns, 
 many handforae Houfes, and creditable Inhabitants. 
 Here lived the unhappy Mr. Drew, who in the 
 Year 1739. was barbaroufly murdered ; and his Son, 
 Mr. Charles Drew, executed for it, who effected it 
 either with his own Hands, or by thofe of another 
 Perfon, whom he procured to do it, for the fake of 
 enjoying his Eftate. The Parricide was attended 
 v/ith Circumftances of great Horror ; but the Parti- 
 culars being well known, and the Fa<3: fo recent, 
 I fnall not Gxy any more of it here. 
 
 In my Way from hence to St. Edmond^^s-bury, I 
 pafTed due North thro' Lavenham, or Lanham, a 
 pretty good Town, flanding upon a Branch of the 
 River Breton. It has a fpacious Market-place, 
 which was formerly of much better Account than 
 at prefent. It had many Years ago great Advantage 
 from its Trade in Blue Cloths ; but tho' this is loft, 
 yet it has a good Trade for Serges, Shalloons, Says, U c. 
 made here ; fpins a great deal of fine Yarn for Lon- 
 don, and has of late flouriftied much, by fetting up 
 
 a Hall 
 
iSutfolk. Great Britaii^. 
 
 a Hall for felling Wool, the Town being conveni- 
 ently fituated for that Purpofe. 
 
 The Church and Steeple here are juftly accounted 
 the fineft in the County. It is fituate on a Hill on the 
 Weft-fide of the Town, the Steeple being 137 Feet 
 high. It has Six tuneable Bells in it, and the Inha- 
 bitants boaft much of their Tenor, which, they fay ^ 
 out-does all the B&lls in England iox its deep Note ; 
 and tho' it weighs but 23 Hundred Weight, they fay 
 it founds like a Bell of 40 Hundred. This Town is 
 alfo remarkable for the many charitable Bequefts 
 made to its Poor ; and gave London a Lord Mayor 
 in 1462. in thePerfonof ^ixThomas Cooke, Draper, 
 the Son of Robert Cooke of this Town. 
 
 Eaft of Lavenham^ and pretty near it, Is hlldejhn^ 
 a Market-town, noted for the Cloathing- trade, its 
 good Church, its mean Buildings, and Dirtinefs. 
 
 Bury St. Edmunds is fituate on the Wefl-fide of 
 the River Lach, which within thefe few Years has 
 been made navigable from Lynn to Fornham, a MiliJ 
 North of the Town. It is fo regularly built, that 
 almoft all the Streets cut one another at Riglit An- 
 gles. It iTunds on ?.n Cr..ry Afcciit, ov-ilooks a 
 moft fruitful inclqfed Country on the South and 
 South- weft ; on the North and North- weft the nioft 
 delightful champain Fields, WMiich extend themfelves 
 to Lynn, and that Part of the N-jrfolk Coaft ; and 
 on the Eaft the Country is partly inclofed, and 
 partly open. No wonder then that it is called the 
 Montpellier of Suffolk, and even of England : and 
 indeed a certain antient Author fays no more than 
 it deferves ; " That the Sun fhines not upon a 
 *' Town more agreeable in its Situation." 
 
 It is governed by an Alderman, which is their 
 chief Magiftrate, a Recorder, 1 2 capital Burgefies, 
 and 24 common Burgefles. 
 
 It has two plentiful weekly Markets on Wednefdays 
 and Saturdays ; and three annual Fairs j one three 
 
 C 4 Days 
 
32 J TOVR thro' Suffolk. 
 
 Days before end three Days after the Feaft of St, 
 ui-datthew ; and it is generally protracted to an un- 
 certain L(fngth, for the Diverlion of the Nobility 
 and Gentry that refort to it, in great Numbers. 
 
 The Abbey, once fo famous, was firft built of 
 ^Vood by Sigebcrt King of the Eaji- Angles, foon 
 rfter Chriftianity was planted here ; and when 
 finifhed, about the Year 638, that King retired into 
 it, and fnut himfelf up from the World. 
 
 King Edmund, from whom the Town takes its 
 Name, began to reign over the Eaji- Angles Anno 
 855, in the 14th Year of his Age, and reigned 
 1 5 Years ; being killed Anno 870, as fuppofed, at 
 Hoxne, at 29 Years old, and his Corps was 33 Years 
 after removed to Bury. The Abbey being much 
 enriclied thereby, the Monks, who were of the 
 BenediSJine Order, found means, about the Year 
 1020, to get it intirely to themfelves, excluding the 
 Seculars ; and King Canute, in the 4th Year of his 
 Reign, founded a moie magnificent Church, in 
 Honour of St. Edmund, which was finiflied in 
 12 Years, and dedicated to Chrjjl, St. Mary, and 
 St. Edmund. 
 
 Uvhis, Prior of Hulm, who was confecrated the 
 firft Abbot, Anno 1020, got the Abbey exempted 
 from Epifcopal Jurifdi£lion, and encompafled that 
 and the Town with a Wall and Ditch ; the Ruins 
 of which, in feveral Places, are ftill to be feen : 
 and the Abbots afterwards were made Parliamentary 
 Barons. But in the Reign of King Henry VIII. it 
 run the common Fate of all Religious Houfes, and 
 that Prince put an End to all its Glory. 
 
 When the Abbey was in its Profperity, there was 
 a Chapel at every one of the five Gates, and the 
 Town abounded with Chapels and Oratories. 'Tis 
 poiTible thefe might be Hofpitals ; for there was an 
 Hofpital of St. Peter's without Ri/^y gate ; an 
 Hofpital of St. Saviour's without North-gate ; an 
 
 Hofpital 
 
Suffolk. Gr EAT Br I TA I N. ;3 
 
 Hofpital of St. Nicolas at or near Eaji-gate ; and 
 God's-houfe, or St. yahn's, at the South-gate ; a 
 College of Priefts with a Gild to the Holy or Siih-ct 
 ISlame of y efus^ the Situation of which 1 could n .t 
 find ; and an Floiife of Grey Friers at Babtucll, cr 
 the Toll-gate. But at this time there are only 
 two Churches, which indeed are very beautiful and 
 ftateiy, and ftand in the fame Church-yard 5 the one 
 dedicated to St. -M?ry, the other, built in theRcija 
 of Edtvard VL to St. yames. The latter has a 
 convenient Library ; and at the Weft En { of the 
 South Ifle are interred yames Reynolds, Efq; late 
 Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer, and his Lady, to 
 whofe Memories two large Monuments are erefted. 
 The Church of St. Mary has, on the North-fido' 
 of the Altar, (to which we approach by a fine y\rccnt 
 of Six Steps) the Tomb of J^^ry Queen of France, 
 Sifter to Henry VIIL and Wife to Charles Brandon, 
 Duke of Suffolk. Her Coffin is of Lead, and has 
 this Lifcription on it; Aiary ^leen, 15 33. cf 
 France. Edmund H~—-. Thzxt are ether hand- 
 fome Monuments in this Church. ^ 
 
 The other moft remarkable publick Bulldinp-s are 
 the Abbey-gate, which is ftill a fine Ivlonument of 
 what the Abbey once was ; the Guild-iiall; the 
 Wool-hall ; the Shire-houfe ; the Market-crofi ; 
 and the Grammar-School, endowed by Kjn<-f Ed- 
 "ward VL 
 
 Such as is tlie Town for Situation, is the 
 Neighbourhood and Gentry about it k,x P ditenefL 3 
 and no Place glories in brighter Ladles, or b.t.xr 
 Families. 
 
 In the Path-way between the two Clvrcres it 
 was that Arundel Coke, Efq; a Barrifter at Lavv, in 
 the Year 1721, attempted (with the Afiiftance o: 
 owQ Wosdbo a me, a barbarous AfiafTin) an unhcarJ-Dr 
 Outrage on his Brother-in-law, Edzv.ird Crif\-S:,; 
 for the lake of polTeffing what he had. He> • . irl ' 
 C 5 ■ viicd 
 
^4 t O U R thro' Suffolk. 
 
 vited him, his Wife and Family, to Supper with 
 him; and in the Night, on Pretence of going to fee 
 a Friend to them both, he led him into the Church- 
 yard, when, on a Signal he gave, the Aflaflin made 
 at Mr. Crlfp with a Hedge* bill, and in a mofl: ter- 
 rible manner mangled his Head and Face ; and fup- 
 pofing him dead, there left him ; and Coke returned, 
 as if he knew nothing of the Matter, to the Com- 
 pany. But it happening that Mr. Crifp was not 
 killed, and coming back to Coke's Houfe to the 
 Company all bloody, and cruelly mangled, the 
 fhocking Sight apiazed and confounded them all ; 
 Coke, that he was not dead ; the reft, that he had 
 met with fo ftrange a Difafter. Mr. Crifp has 
 furvived this Outrage many Years, and Coke and 
 IVoodhurnc, the hired Afiaffin, were juftly executed 
 for a Villainy fo deteftable, that it hardly had its 
 Parallel. The Gentleman being not killed, the 
 Afiaffins were tried and condemned on the Statute 
 for defacing and difmembring, called The Coventry 
 A£i: And Coke was {ogood a Lawyer, and fo hardened 
 a Wretch, that he thought to have faved himfelf, by 
 pleading that he intended not to deface, but to kill. 
 Some nice People fay, the Law was a little ftrained in 
 their Puniftiraent, as the Gentleman recovered ; but, 
 furely, if in any Cafe the Letter might be difpenfed 
 with, and the B-pirit be brought in Aid of it, it 
 was right in this : and it would have been next to a 
 national Difgrace, not to have a Law that would 
 reach fo flagrant and complicated a Wickednefs. 
 
 There is very little or no Manufadluring in this 
 Town, except Spinning ; the chief Bufmefs of the 
 Place depending upon the neighbouring Gentry, 
 who cannot fail to caufe Trade enough by the Ex- 
 pence of their Families and Equipages, among the 
 People of a Country Town.. Our Monarchs, 
 Edward L and IL had a Mint at Bury, and fome 
 of their Pennies coined there, are yet remaining. 
 
Suffolk, Great Britain. Sf 
 
 Stow, in his Survey of London, p. 83. fays, That 
 here was alfo a Mint in King John's Time. 
 
 This Town is famous for two great Events: 
 One, That a Parliament was held here in the 
 Year 1447. in the 25th Year of Henry VI. The 
 other. That at the Meeting of this Parhament, the 
 good Humphry, Duke of Gloucejier, Regent of the 
 Kingdom, during the Abfence of King Henry V. 
 and in the Minority of his Son Henry VI. and, 
 to his laft Hour, the Safeguard of the whole 
 Nation, and Darling of the People, was bafely 
 murdered here ; by whofe Death the Gate was 
 opened to that dreadful War between the Houfes of 
 Lancajier and York, which ended in the Confufion of 
 the very Race, who are fuppofed to have contrived 
 that Murder. 
 
 As I made fome Stay at Ipfwich and Bury, being 
 obliged to wait the Leifure of a Gentleman who 
 accompanied me Part of this Journey, I made feveral 
 Excurfions more Inland than I had at firft intended 
 when I fet out, and vifited the following Towns : 
 
 As, firft, Boxford, which is about Seven Miles 
 from Sudbury, and is a neat and well-built Village, 
 and carries on a confiderableTraffick. 
 
 At Bures on the Stour King Edward wascrown'd, 
 and not at Bury. It has a good Bridge on that River, 
 j^nno 1733. the Spire of the Steeple of the handfome 
 Church here was burnt by Lightning, the Bell- frames 
 deftroyed, and the Bells melted. 
 
 ■Clare is fituate on the Stour, about 14 Miles from 
 Bury, and is but a poor Town, and dirty, the 
 Streets being unpaved. But yet the Civil and Spiri- 
 tual Courts are held at it, and it has a good Church ; 
 and {hews ftill the Ruins of a ftrong Caftle, and an 
 old Monaftery. It gives Title of Earl to his Grace 
 the Duke of Newcajile of the Pelham Family, as it 
 did to that of Holies before. 
 
 C 6 Not 
 
36 T O U R thro - SafFolk, 
 
 Not far from Clare is Hanedon^ whert, in the 
 Year 1687. the Sexton, digging a Grave, found a 
 Jarge Quantity of Saxon Coins. 
 
 Cavendijh upon the Stour deferves Mention, for 
 giving Name to the Noble Family of the Dukes of 
 Devonjhire. 
 
 Haverhill ftands partly in Eflfsx^ and partly in 
 Suffolk. By the Ruins of a Church and Caftle ftill 
 to be feen here, it appears to have been of greater 
 Confequence formerly, than at prefent. Now I am 
 at rliis Place, I fhall juft mention 
 
 Ledgate^ on account of its giving Birth and Name 
 to the famous Poet, Orator, Mathematician and Phi- 
 lofopher, John Ledgate., v/ho died in 1440. Here 
 are to be feen the Ruins of a ftrong Caftle. 
 
 Stoke juxta Neyland gave a Lord Mayor to London 
 jn 1503. vi%. Sir IVtlltam Capel^ of the Drapers 
 Company, from whom is defcended the prefent Earl 
 of EJex. It has a fair Church and Steeple. Gif- 
 fard\-hall inthisParifh is a noble old Seat belonging 
 to Sir F'l a icis Mannock^ Bart. And Pendering-hall 
 is the new-built fair Seat o{?>ix John TFiiria?ns^ Alder- 
 man of London. 
 
 Stratford is a thorough-fare Village of great Traf- 
 flck, and is employed in the Woollen Manufaftures. 
 
 Jiajhrhergholt., near four Miles from Stratford^ 
 and half a Mile North of the Stour., is a large and 
 handfome Village, employ'd in the Woollen Way, 
 hut not to fo great a Degree as formerly. It has a good 
 Church, but the Steeple is in Ruins, and the Bells are 
 rung by Hand, in a kind of Cagefet up in theChurch- 
 3 ard. ' A little South of the Church is an elegant 
 Houfe of Sir Jofeph Hankey., Alderman of London. 
 
 Hem 'ingjion ma^ bear the Mention for the merry 
 i enure by which that Manor was held, according 
 to Ca7ndm^hY Serjeanty, the PofiefTor bemg^ obliged 
 cvt^xy -Chrtjlmas-day to pe'rform' before' the King one 
 S'.ihus, one SuJJlatm^ >md one Bombulus ; 'cr, as is 
 
 read 
 
SufFolk. Great Britain. 37 
 
 read elfewhere, it was held by a S alius, a Sufflatus, 
 znda Pet ; that is, as Carnden interprets the Words, 
 he was to dance, make a Noife with his Cheeks 
 pufFed out, and let a F--t. 
 
 Neeclham is a thorough-fareTown, about nine Mi es 
 North-weft from Ipfwich. It is tolerably well built, 
 has feveral confiderable Dealers in it, and formerly 
 carried on a large Trade in the Woollen Manu- 
 faaures, which it has loft for fome Years. 
 
 Bildejlon is a meanly built, dirty Town, but has a 
 good Church. 
 
 Stow-market, about three Miles fromNeedham, is 
 a tolerable Town, with a fpacious Church and Spire- 
 Steeple. 
 
 And five Miles further, being eight from Bury, is 
 Wiilpit, famous for the white Bricks made there. 
 It has a handfome Church and Spire-Steeple. 
 
 At Norton, near Wulpit., King Henry VIII. was 
 induced to dig for Gold. He was difappointed, but 
 the Diggings are vifible at this Day. 
 
 Ixworth, about feven Miles from Bury, is a dirty, 
 ill-built Town, with a mean Market ; but is a 
 thorough-fare Town, and has two annual Fairs. 
 
 Botcfdale is a long, mean-built, dirty, thorough- 
 fare Town ; yet it is remarkable for a Grammar 
 Free-fchool founded by Sir Nicolas Bacon, and 
 eftabliftied by Queen Elizabeth. The Mafter and 
 Uftier are to be elefted out of Bennet College 
 Cambridge, where Sir Nicolas was educated. The 
 Mafter enjoys a Salary of 20 Pounds per Annum, 
 befides the Benefit of the School-houfe, and the 
 Uftier eight Pounds, with a Houfe and Yard. The 
 School-houfe is now in the Gift of Edmund Britiffe, 
 Efq; Sir Nicolas alfo bequeathed 20 /. aYearto tb.e 
 faid College for fix Scholars out of this School, to 
 whom llkewife Archbiftiop Tenifon was faid to have 
 given fix Pounds annually. There is a mean Market 
 here tvcxy Thurfday, and an annual Fair on Holy 
 rhurfday, Milden- 
 
38 T O U R thro' Suffolk. 
 
 Milden-hall, about 12 Miles from is fituate 
 
 on the River Larke j it is a Town of very extenfive 
 Limits, pleafant and well-built, and has a noble 
 Church, and lofty Steeple. It has 9 plentiful Friday 
 Market, and a very confiderable annual Fair, which 
 lafts four Days. A little North of the Church is 
 the Manfion-houfe of Sir Thomas Hanmer^ Bart 
 who in the Reign of Queen Anne was Speaker of 
 the Houfe of Commons. In the Year 1507. a great 
 Part of this Town was confumed by Fire. It 
 furniflied the City of London with two Lord Mayors 
 Henry Bart on y Skinner, Anno 1428. and ^'ir Wil- 
 liam Gregory^ of the fame Company, 145 1. 
 
 Ickworth was once a Parifh, but now is a noble 
 Park, in which is the Seat of the Earl of Brijiol. It 
 is a Place of great Antiquity, and what confirrns it 
 is, what that learned Antiquarian Dr. Battley, Arch- 
 deacon of Canterbury, writes. That in his Memory 
 a large Pot of Roman Money was found here. 
 
 Debenham is a tolerably clean, tho' mean-built 
 Town, and among very dirty and heavy Roads, beino- 
 feated on a Hill. The Church is a good Building, the 
 Market-place tolerable, and there is a Free-fchool 
 founded by Appointment of Sir Robert Hitcham. 
 
 Crows-hall, about a Mile South-eaft ofthisTown, 
 was formerly the Seat of the Gawdies ; till Sir 
 Charles Gawdy, Bart, convey'd it to John Pit, Efq; 
 in a Defcendant of whofe Family itftill remains. 
 
 Msndlejham is a dirty and poor Town, but has a 
 handfome Church, and a fmall Tuefday's Market. 
 
 Eye is aTown Corporate, governed by two Bailiffs, 
 ten principal Burgefles, and 24 Common-council- 
 men, and gives Title of Baron to the Lord Corn- 
 wallis. It is fituate in a Bottom between two Rivers, 
 is meanly built, and the Streets dirty. Near the 
 Weft-end of the Church are ftill to be feen fome of 
 the ruinous Walls of the Caftle. 
 
 My 
 
Suffolk. Great Britain. 39 
 
 My Friend having finiftied his Bufinefs in thofe Perts 
 of Suffolk^ which lie round the Towns of Bury and 
 Ipfwich, gave me an Opportunity of refuming my 
 Journey according to the Plan I laid down at the 
 Beginning of the Letter ; and fo from the former 
 of'thefe Towns I returned by S taw-market^ and 
 Needham, to Ipfwich, that I might keep as near the 
 Coaft as was proper to my defigned Circuit ; having 
 determined to take the Opportunity, which he told 
 me his Affairs would give me, of making two or three 
 Excurfions from Woodbr'idge^ Aldborough^ and Sauth- 
 would^ to make my Obfervations on that Part of 
 Suffolk^ which I have not yet touched upon. From 
 IpJ'wicb therefore I went to vifit the Sea again, and 
 fo to Woodhridge^ and from thence to Orford on the 
 Sea Coaft. 
 
 JVoodbr'idge is a Market-town, fituate on the 
 River Deben, about 1 1 Miles from the Sea. This 
 River being navigable to the Town for Ships of con- 
 fiderable Burden, it drives a pretty good Trade with 
 Holland, Newcajile, and London, and has Paflage 
 Hoys, that go to and return from London weekly. 
 It has a fine Church and Steeple, and traded formerly 
 in Sackcloth, and now in refining Salt. The 
 Shire-hall is a handfome Pile of Building, where the 
 Qiiarter-Seffions for this Part of the County are 
 held, and under it is the Corn-crofs. One Street in 
 it, called Stone-Jireet, is well-built and paved, but 
 the reft are dirty. The Market-place and Thorough- 
 fare are alfo well enough built ; but the reft of the 
 Town is mean. The Quays and Ware-houfes are 
 very commodious, and here isaGrammar-fchool, and 
 an Alms-houfe, ere£led in 1587. by Thomas Seckford\, 
 Mafter of the Requefts, for Thirteen Men and Three 
 Women, which is well endowed. It has a pretty good 
 Market on TVednefdays, and two annual Fairs. 
 
 Walton has been an antient Market-town, and 
 tlio' the Market is now difufed, the Crofs is ftill re- 
 
 maining* 
 
'40 ^ TOUR thro' Suffolk. 
 
 m*ining. In the neighbouring Parifli of FeUyftoiv 
 on the ChfF by the Sea, and about a Mile from the 
 Colne Side of Woodbridge-haven^ are difcerned the 
 Ruins of a quadrangular Caftle advantageoully fitu- 
 ated ; of tvhich nothing now remains but the Foun- 
 dation of one Side of the Wall. The reft has been 
 devoured by the Sea ; and in all Probability thefe 
 Remains muft in a few Years undergo the fame Fate 
 It was built principally of Rock-ftones; but the 
 many Roman Bricks ftill to be feen, and Roman 
 Coins, which have been difcovered amonc^ the Ruins 
 of the Side Walls, as they have been waflied away 
 by the Sea in the prefent Age, are an undeniable 
 Evidence, that it was a Place of confiderable Anti- 
 quity, probably a Colony, which might give 
 Name to the Hundred of Colnies, in which it flood. 
 
 Now begins that Part which is ordinarily called 
 High- Suffolk ; which being a rich Soil, is, for a lono- 
 Way wholly employed in Dairies j and famous for 
 the beft Butter, and perhaps the worft Cheefe in 
 England : the Butter is barrelled, and fometimes 
 pickled up in fmall Cafks, in which it keeps fo well, 
 that I have know a Firkin of Suffh/k Butter fent to 
 the Wejl-Indies^ and brought back to England ac^ain, 
 perfeaiy good and fweet, as at firft. 
 
 From hence turning down to the Shore, we fee 
 Orfordnefs, a noted Point of Land for the Guide of 
 the Colliers and Coafters, and a good Shelter for them 
 to ride under, when a flrong North-eaft Wind 
 blows, and makes a foul Shore on the Coaft. 
 
 Orford is fituate on the North- v.'eft Side of the 
 River Ore, whence it had its Name. It v/as formerly 
 a Tov/n of good Account, having a flrong CaRle of 
 reddifli Stone for i^s Defence, of which,"^ and of a 
 ^enediame N unnery near the Quay, there are flill to 
 be feen confiderable Ruins. The' Sea has fo much 
 withdrawn itfelf from this Town, that it is robbed 
 of Its chief Advantage, and deferves not the Name 
 
 of 
 
Suffolk. Gre AT Britain. 41 
 
 of a Harbour. The Town is mean, and no one 
 contends for an Intereft in it, but fuch as want to 
 malce themfelves a Merit in the Choice of the two 
 Members which it returns to Parhapent. It is a 
 Town Corporate, and is governed by a Mayor, 
 eight Portmen, and twelve Burgeffes ; it has alfo a 
 mean Monday Market, and an annual Fair. It 
 had the Honour to give Title of Earl to the brave 
 Admiral Ruffel : but that is now extind. 
 
 About three Miles from Orford^ is Aldhurgh^ a 
 Town pleafontlyfituated in a Valley. It has two 
 Streets, each near a Mile long ; but its Breadth, 
 which was more confiderable formerly, is not pro- 
 portionable, and the Sea has of late Years-Swallowed 
 up one whole Street. The Town, tho' meanly 
 built, is clean and well peopled in the Sea- faring 
 way. The Sea wafties the Eaft-fide of it, and the 
 River Aid runs not far from the South-end of it, 
 affording a good Quay. In the adjacent Seas, 
 Sprats, Soles, and Lobfters, are caught in abun- 
 dance. The Town trades to Newcajile for Coals i 
 and from hence Corn is tranfported. The Manor 
 of Aldburgh^ as alio the Manors of Scots and Tajkards 
 in the Neighbourhood, formerly belonged to the 
 Monaftery of Snape^ and were firft granted with that 
 Monaftery, to Cardinal Wolfey^ and foon after to 
 Thomas Duke of Norfolk. Aldburgh is pretty well 
 fituated for Strength, and has feveral Pieces of 
 Cannon for its Defence. The Church, which is a 
 good Edifice, ftands on a Hill, a little Weft of the 
 Town. It is a Town Corporate, governed by Two 
 Bailiffs, Ten capital Burgefies, and Twenty-four 
 inferior Officers. 
 
 From Aldburgh, I pafTed thro' Saxmlnden, a little 
 ^irty Market- town, to Dunwich, a very antient 
 Town, which, by Roman Coins dug up there, is 
 fuppofed to have been a Roman Station. In the 
 Reign of the Conqueror y it was fo confiderable a PJace, 
 
 that 
 
42 ^ TOUR thro* Suffolk. 
 
 that It had 1 30 Burgefles, and was valued to that 
 King at 150 /. and 60,000 Herrings. We read that 
 in the Reign of Henry II. it was a very famous 
 Village, well ftored with Riches, and fortified with 
 a Rampart, fome Remains of which ftill appear. 
 
 Before thefe Times, in the Reign of King Sige- 
 herty Jnno 630. Dunwich was a Bifhop's See ; and 
 fo continued, till the Conqueror made his Chaplain 
 Bifhop of it, and tranflated the See to Thetford, 
 which was afterwards tranflated from thence to 
 Norwich. 
 
 There were feveral Religious Houfes in Dunwich^ 
 and, fome pretend, no lefs than fifty Churches : but 
 there is a certain Account of fix Parifti-churches, 
 and three Chapels, befides the feveral Religious 
 Houfes. Four of thefe Parifh-churches, and the 
 three Chapels, have been long devoured by the Sea ; 
 and one of the others met with the fame Fate in this 
 Age, fo that there is only one now ftanding j and 
 what remains of this once famous Place, is but a 
 pitiful Parcel of forry Cottages. 
 
 Hereabouts they begin to talk of Herrings, and 
 the Fifhery. And here alfo, and at Swole or South- 
 would^ the next Sea-port, they cure Sprats in the 
 fame manner as they do Herrings at Tarfuouth. 
 
 From Dunwich we went to Southwould, pleafantly 
 fituated on a Hill, and almoft furrounded with the 
 Sea, and the River Blyth, over which it has a 
 Bridge. It drives a confiderable Trade in Salt and 
 old Beer, and in Herrings, Sprats, ^^c. The Church 
 is large, and very ftrong. The Bay, called corruptly 
 Sowl or Sole-bay, is a commodious Place for Anchor- 
 age, and occafions a great Refort of Mariners to it, 
 which adds greatly to its Trade and Commerce. 
 
 The Traffick of my Friend at Woodhridge, Ald- 
 burgh^ and this Place, gave me the Opportunity I 
 hinted at, of making Excurfions into the main in- 
 land Parts of Suffolky adjacent to thofe Towns, 
 
 which 
 
Suffolk. Great Britain. 43 
 
 which I (hall tranfcribe from my Memorandum- book, 
 in the Order I fet them down. 
 
 Ufford is at prefent of no great Remark ; but has 
 the Ruins of a Chapel, called Sogenhoc Chapel. 
 Richard Lufkin was Re<aor of this Parifh 57 Years, 
 and was buried 5^'/»?m^<?r 23. 1678. in the 11 ith Year 
 of his Age. He performed all the Offices of his 
 Function to the laft, and preached the Sunday before 
 his Death. He was plundered in the grand Rebellion, 
 and loft all that he had except a Silver Spoon, which 
 he prefervedby hiding it in his Sleeve. 
 
 In the Hundred of Ha rtfmer e Q^Tin^s Broome, a 
 noble old Manfion, which for many Ages has been 
 the Seat of the noble Family of Cornwallis. In 
 this Parifh Broome is an Alms-houfe for poor 
 Widews, fronting the Hall ; but not endowed. 
 
 Wkkham Market is fituated about four Miles from 
 Woodhridge, The Church is built on a Hill, and 
 tho' but 23 Yards high, affords the beft Profpedl of 
 any in Suffolk ; for in a clear Day, near 50 Parifh- 
 churches may be feen from it. It is now only a 
 Village, but has fome Trade, and the Civil and 
 Spiritual Courts are held in it. 
 
 Snape was once noted for a famous Monaftery, 
 few Remains of which are to be feen. It has a con- 
 ' fiderable annual Fair for Horfes, which lafts four 
 Days, beginning Auguji 11. to which the London 
 Jockeys refort. 
 
 At Sudbourne is a fine Seat of the Lord Vifcount 
 \ Hereford. 
 
 At Eajion is the Seat of the Earl of Rochfordy 
 formerly belonging to the Wingfield Family. 
 
 Letherlngham was of Note for a little Priory, 
 which was obtained at the Diffolution by Jntony 
 \ TVingfield ; and Sir Henry Spelman tells us, that, as 
 ■ a Judgment for the Sacrilege, he died without IfTue 
 Male. It was converted into a Manfion-houfe, 
 and is now the Seat of the antient Family of the 
 
 Nauntons, 
 
44 ^ T O U R thro Suffolk. 
 
 Nauntons. Sir Roger Naunton was in the Reign of 
 King James 1. Secretary of State, and Mafter o1' the 
 Court of Wards and Liveries. He died Jnm 1630. 
 In the Abbey is a long Gallery, adorned with feveral 
 valuable Piftures : And in Letheringham Church 
 are, fome elegant and magnificent Monuments of 
 the Wingfields and Nauntons. 
 
 Rendeljham was antiently famous for being the 
 Royal Refidence of Redwald, King of the Eajl- 
 Angles. Hugh Fitz-Otho procured a Market and 
 Fair for this Town, from King Edward I. Digging 
 here about 50 Years ago, an anticnt Silver Crown 
 was found weighing about 60 Ounces, fuppofed to 
 have^belonged to Redwald^ or fome other King* ot 
 the Eajl- Angles j which was fold and melted down 
 for the fake of the Metal. 
 
 At Biitley was a Priory of Canons Regular 
 founded by Ranulph de Glanville^ chief Jullice cj 
 England, to the Honour of the Blefied Virgin 
 The Ruins of the Abbey, which are ftill to be feen, 
 ftiewit to have been very large 5 and the Gate-houfe 
 is a magnificent Building : it remains intire_, and is 
 embellifhed in the Front with many Coats of Arms, 
 finely cut m Stone. 
 
 Framlingham is fituate North of Jldburgh, a 
 large Town, well-built, and. pleafantly feated near 
 the Head of the River Ore ; it has a fpacious Market^ 
 place; the Church is built of black Flint, and Is a 
 very ftately and noble Edifice, wherein feveral of 
 the Mowhrays Dukes of Norfolk lie buried. The 
 Caflle is a fair Piece of Antiquity, being a 
 large, beautiful and flrong Building ; and contains 
 within the Walls now ffanding an Acre i Rood 
 II Perches, and was formerly much larger. Its 
 Walls are 44 Feet high, and thick, and are ftandlng 
 pretty intire ; and it has 13 Towers, 14 Feet higher 
 than the Walls, two of which are Watch-towers. 
 It was both by Art and Nature formerly ver)' ftrong. 
 
 There 
 
Suffolk. Great Britain. 45- 
 
 There are two good Alms-houfes, and a Free-fchool, 
 founded by Sir Robert Hitcka7n^ (who is interred in 
 the Church) for 40 poor Boys, who are taught to 
 read, write, and caft Accounts, and 10 /. is given to 
 fettle each of them Apprentice. This Gentleman 
 bought of the Duke of Norfolk the Caftle, Manor, 
 ijc. and gave them to Pembroke-hall m Cambridge. 
 To this Caftle Qiieen Alary \. retired, when the 
 Lady Jane was proclaimed Queen by the Ntrthim- 
 berland FatStion. 
 
 Blithburg was formerly a Place of good Note, but 
 now has nothing to recommend it but its Church, 
 which is a fine old Building, and kept in good 
 Repair, 
 
 At Chedijion^ Is the fine Seat of Walter Plumer, 
 Efq; who bought it lately, and rebuilt the Hall in 
 a beautiful manner. 
 
 Hale/worth \sl>iovih-e^{i of Framlinghamy a large 
 and good Marft;et-town, fituated upon the River, 
 Blythy which runs thro' it. The Streets are clean, 
 and partly paved. It has a very neat Church, beauti- 
 fully decorated within, and Is noted for Linen-yarn, 
 which is fpun in the Neighbourhood, and fold here. 
 
 Hoxne is the Place where Edmund King of the 
 Eajl- Angles was murdered by the Pagan Danes^ be- 
 caufe he would not renounce his Faith, 870. ar^d 
 his Body was removed to ^r^rji, as above-mentioned. 
 
 Bungay is a well-frequente(d Market- town, plea- 
 fantly iituate upon and almoft furrounded with the 
 Waveney^ which is navigable thither for Barges. It 
 lies North-eaft of Halefworth. Its Streets are moftly 
 impaved; but the Town is handfome and well-built 
 fince the great Firc^ which broke out about Sun- 
 j-ifing on March i. i6j8d-Q. in a fmall uninhabited 
 Houfe; and in four Hours time confumed the whole 
 Town, except one fmall Street. The whole Lofs 
 was computed at 29,896 /. and upv/ards. It has 
 p^o Parilh-churchcsj one of which is a very noble 
 
 one J 
 
46 
 
 jiTOVK thro' 
 
 Suffolk, 
 
 one ; and has a beautiful Steeple. The Ruins of a 
 Benedt£line Nunnery, and a very flrong Caftle, are 
 ilill to be feen here. The latter was fo ftrong, that 
 Hugh Bigodt its Owner, in the Wars between the 
 Emprefs Maud and King Stephen, with the latter of 
 whom he fided, made this Boaft upon it ; 
 
 Were I In my Cajile of Bungay, 
 
 Upon the River Waveney, 
 
 / would not care for the King of Cockney^ 
 
 But yet he was forced afterwards to compound with 
 King i/^«ry II. for its Prefervation. It has a Gram- 
 mar-fchool with lo Scholarfliips, for Emanuel 
 College Cambridge. 
 
 In this Excurfion I ftretched to Beccles, ftill fur- 
 ther North-eaft ; a large ill-built Market-town, 
 fituate on the Waveney, which is navigable hence 
 from Tarjnouth to Bwigay, as I hav^ faid, It has a 
 noble Church and Steeple, and a Grammar and 
 Englijh School, well endowed. It has a plentiful 
 Market, and a Common of above looo Acres. The 
 Streets are well paved and clean, but the Houfes are 
 but ordinary. The Ruins of another Church, called 
 Jngate Church, are to be feen here, which was for- 
 pierly the Parifti Church to the Town. 
 
 Burgh-cajile fcituate at the Mouth of the Wave^ 
 ney, was a Place of confiderable Note in the Time 
 p/ the Romans. The Walls on the Eaft, North, 
 and South Sides, are ftiJl ftanding, pretty intire ; and 
 tht River being a Defence on the Weft, no Wall 
 was wanting there. 
 
 I returned from thefe Excurfions to Southtvould, 
 in order to proceed on my Journey, according to 
 li\y firftPlan. But it may not be amjfs to mention, 
 before J proceed. That this Town is made famous 
 by an Engagement at Sea, in theYear 1672, between 
 
 fthg Englijh 
 
SufFolk. GreatBritain. 47 
 
 the Town ; in which the brave Montague Earl of 
 Sandwich y Admiral under the Duke of Tork^ loft 
 his Life : his Ship, Royal Prince^ carrying loo 
 Guns, which was under him commanded by Sir 
 ■ Edward Spragg, was burnt, andfeveral other Ships 
 loft, and about 600 Seamen. 
 
 At this Town in particular, and fo at all theTowns 
 on this Coaft, from Orfordnefs to Yarmouth^ is the 
 ordinary Place where our Summer Friends the Swal- 
 lows firft land when they come to vifit us ; and 
 here they may be faid to begin their Voyage, when 
 they go back into warmer Climates. I was fome 
 Years before at this Place, about the Beginning of 
 October J and lodging in a Houfe that looked into 
 the Church-yard, I obferved in the Evening an 
 unufual Multitude of Swallows fitting on the Leads 
 of the Church, and covering the Tops of feveral 
 Houfes round about. This led me to inquire what 
 was the Meaning of fuch a prodigious Multitude of 
 Swallows fitting there : I was anfwered. That this 
 was the Seafon when the Swallows, their Feod fail- 
 ing here, began to leave us, and return to the 
 Country, where-ever it be, from whence they came i 
 and that this being the neareft Land to the oppofite 
 Coaft, and the Wind contrary, they were waiting 
 for a Gale, and might be faid to be Wind-bound, 
 
 This was more evident to me, whgn in the Morn- 
 ing I found the Wind had come about to the North- 
 weft in the Night, and there was not one Swallow to 
 be feen, 
 
 Certain It is, that the Swallows neither come 
 iiither naerely for warm Weather, nor retire merely 
 from Cold : they, like the Shoals of Fifti in the Sea, 
 purfue their Prey i being a voracious Creature, and 
 feeding as they fly ; for their Food is the Infe<5ls, of 
 svhich, in our Summer Evenings, in damp and moift 
 Places, the Air is full. ; ^nd when cold Weather 
 pomes i^^ and kills the Infers, tben Neceffity 
 
48 T O U R thro' Suffolk. 
 
 compels the Swallows to quit us, and follow their 
 Food to fome other Climate. 
 
 This pafling and repafling of the Swallows is 
 obferved no- where fo much as on thisEaftern Coaft ; 
 namely frona above Harwich to the Eaft Point of 
 Norfolk, called Wintertonnefs, North ; which is 
 oppofite to Holland. We know nothing of them 
 any farther North ; the Paffage of the Sea being, as 
 I fuppofe, too broad from Flatnbro' Head, and the 
 Shore of Holdernefs in Torkjhire, Sec. 
 
 This Part of England is remarkable for being the 
 firft where the Feeding and Fattening of Sheep and 
 other Cattle, with Turneps, was firft pra£lifed iu 
 England, which is made a very great Part of the 
 Improvement of their Lands to this Day ; and from 
 whence the Practice is fpread over moft of the Eaft 
 and South Part of England, to the great enriching, 
 of the Farmers, and Increafe of fat Cattle : and 
 tho' fome have obje£ted againft the Goodnefs of the 
 Flefli thus fed with Turneps, and have fanfied it 
 would tafte of the Root ; yet upon Experience 'tis 
 found, that there is no Reafon for this Fancy. 
 
 The County of Suffolk is particularly famous for 
 furniftiing the City of London, and all the Counties 
 round, with Turkeys ; infomuch that anore Turkeys 
 are bred in this County, and the Part of Norfolk 
 that joins to it, for Sale, than in all the reft of 
 England, 
 
 Nor will this be found an inconfiderable Article, 
 if it be true, that 300 Droves of Turkeys haye 
 pafted, in one Seafon, over Stratford-bridge on the 
 River Stour, on the Road from Ipfzvich to London ; 
 each Drove generally containmg from 30Q to 1000 
 Turkeys, v/hich at 500, one with another, will be 
 150,000 in all ; and yet the Nambers which are 
 driven by New Market-'heath, and the open Country^ 
 an.d the Foreft, and al|p tibpig by ^'udbur^ and Clare^ 
 are much greater. 
 
Suffolk. GreatBritain. 
 
 49 
 
 For the further Supplies of the Markets of London 
 with Poultry, in which thefe Countries particularly 
 abound, they have within thefe few Years found it 
 pra<3:icable to make the Geefe travel on foot too, 
 and prodigious Numbers are brought up to London 
 in like Droves from the fartheft Parts of Norfolk^ even 
 from the Fen- Country, about Lynn^ Downham^ 
 TViJbich, and the Wajhes ; as alfo from all the Eaft- 
 fide of Norfolk and Suffolk ; and 'tis very frequent 
 now to meet looo, or 2000, in a Drove. They begin 
 to drive them generally in Auguji^ when the Harveft 
 is almoft over, that the Geefe may feed on the Stub- 
 ble as they go. Thus they hold on to the End of 
 OSiober^ when the Roads begin to be too ftifF and deep 
 for their broad Feet and fliort Legs to march in. 
 
 Befides fuch Methods of driving thefe Creatures 
 on Foot, they have of late invented a new kind of 
 Carriage, being Carts formed on purpofe, with four 
 Stories or Stages, to put the Poultry in, one above 
 another, whereby one Cart will carry a very great 
 Number ; and for the fmoother going, they drive 
 with two Horfes abreaft, like a Coach; thus quarter- 
 ing the Road for the Eafe of the Poultry, and 
 changing Horfes, they travel Night and Day ; fo 
 that they bring the Fowls 70, 80, or 100 Miles 
 in two Days and one Night : T he Horfes are faften'^d 
 together by a Piece of Wood lying crofs-wife upon 
 their Necks, by which they are kept even and toge- 
 ther, and the Driver fits on the Top of the Cart, as 
 in the publick Carriages for the Army, ISc 
 
 In this manner vaft Numbers of Turkey-poults 
 and Chickens are carried to London every Year, 
 which yield a good Price at Market ; and more out 
 of this County than any other Part of England^^ 
 which is the Reafon of my fpeaking of it here. 
 
 In this Part, which we call High Suffolk^ there 
 are not fo many Families of Gentry or Nobility, as 
 in the other Side of the Country ; But 'tis obferved. 
 
 Vol, I, D that 
 
5-0 ^ T O U R thro' Suffolk. 
 
 that tho' their Seats are not here, their Eftates are ; 
 and the Pleafure of Weft Suffolk is much of it fup- 
 ported hy the Wealth of High Suffolk : For the 
 Richnefs of the Lands, and Application of the Peo- 
 ple to all Kinds of Improvement, are fcarce credible. 
 The Farmers alfo are fo very confiderable, and their 
 Farms and Dairies fo large, that 'tis very frequent for 
 a Farmer to have loco /. Stock upon his Farm in 
 Cows only. 
 
 From Southtuould^ Coaft-wife, I proceeded to 
 Leoftof^ a confiderable Market-town, landing near 
 the Sea. It is indifferently well built. The Church, 
 which is fituate near a Mile on the Weft-fide of the 
 Town, is a good Building ; but for the Eafe of its 
 Inhabitants, there is a Chapel in the Town, wherein 
 divine Service is fometimes celebrated. The Nefs 
 below the North- end of the Town is (fince the 
 walhing away of Eajlonmfs ) the mofl; Eaftern Point 
 of Land in Great Britain. Its principal Trade is 
 Fifliing for Herrings and Maycril. It has a noted 
 Market weekly on~Wednefdays ; and two fmall Fairs 
 yearly, the one on the ift Day of May-, and the 
 other on the 29th of September, Befides the prefent 
 Chapel, here was formerly, at the South-end of the 
 Town, a Chapel called Good-crofs-chapely which 
 h/a'th lono- fmce been deftroyed by the Sea. This 
 Town, having been Part of the antient Demefnes 
 of the Crown, hath a Charter, and a Town-feal : 
 But the greatefl Privilege they now enjoy from their 
 Charter, is, that of not ferving on Juries, either 
 at the Seffions or Affizes, 
 
 From High Suffolk^ I pafled the TFaveney, near 
 Schole-Inn, and fo came into NORFOLK. 
 
 But, I believe. Sir, you will allow, that I have 
 written enough in all Confcience for one Letter. I 
 will therefore only further add, that I am. 
 
 Tour humble Servant. 
 
 L E T- 
 
LETTER II. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A Defcription of the Counties of Nortolk 
 Cambridge, and that Partof'Ess'E:^ 
 not touched on in the former. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 N my Journey from High Suffolk^ to 
 Norfolk^ I faw at Redgrave (the Seat 
 of the Family) a beautiful Monument 
 of that excellent Judge %\xJohn Holt^ 
 with the following Infcription upon 
 
 M. s. 
 
 D. Johannis Holt, Equith Aur. 
 'lori-.is Anglise in Banco Regis 
 per a I Annos contiruos 
 Capitalis Juttitiarii ; 
 Gulielmo Reo^i, Annaeq; Regina, 
 
 ConfiUarii ferpetiti ; 
 Libert atis ac Legum Anglicarum 
 AJfertoris, Vindicis, Cuftodis, 
 Vigilis,Acris, & Intrepidi. 
 Rolandas Frater Unicus & Hares 
 Optime dc fe Merita 
 Pofuit. 
 
 Die Martii Vto. 1 709. fublatus e/i 
 
 ex Ocuirs noftris. 
 Natu: 30 Decmiris, Anno 1640. 
 
 In Engli/h thus : 
 Sacred to the Memory of Sir John 
 i/o/r, Knight, Lord Chief Juftice 
 of the King's-bench, fortheSpace 
 of 21 Years fucceffively, and of 
 the Privy Council to King Wil- 
 liam and Queen Anne. A vigi- 
 lant, penetrating and intrepid 
 Affertor, Vindicator and Guar- 
 dian of the Liberty and Laws of 
 England, 
 Rowland, his only Brother and 
 Heir, erefted this Monument to. 
 him, who deferved all things at 
 his Hands. He departed this Life 
 the fifth Day of March, Anno 
 1709. And was born the 30th 
 of December^ Am? 1642. 
 J-> 2 WhcJl 
 
5^ 
 
 T O U R thro Norfolk. 
 
 Thetford^ 
 Dis, 
 Harling, 
 Bucknam, 
 
 Harlejion, 
 Eaft Deerham, 
 Watton, 
 Loddon, &c. 
 
 When we come into Norfolk, we fee a Face of 
 Diligence fpread over the whole Country ; the vaft 
 •Manufa£lures carried on chiefly by the Norwich 
 ■ Weavers, employ all the Country round in fpinning^ 
 • Yarn for them ; and alfo ufe many thoufand Packs of 
 Yarn, which they receive from other Countries, even 
 ,from as far as Torkjh'ire and JFeJimorland, of which 
 lihall fpeak in its Place. 
 
 This Side of Norfolk is very populous, and hlled 
 with a great Number of confiderablc Market-towns ; 
 infomuch that between the Borders of Sufolk and 
 the City of Norwich on this Side, which is not 
 above 22 Miles in Breadth, are the follewing Mar- 
 jket- towns, viz. 
 
 Hingham, 
 Wejl Deerham^ 
 Attlehoro\ 
 Ducxnurny JVindha?n, 
 Moft of thefe Towns are very populous and large ; 
 but that which is moft remarkable is, that the whole 
 Country round them is interfperfed with Villages fo 
 larcre, and fo full of People, that they are equal to 
 Market- towns in other Counties. 
 
 An eminent Weaver of Norwich gwe me a Scheme 
 of their Trade on this Occafion, by which, calcu- 
 lating from the Number of Looms at that time 
 ^mploy'd in the City of Norwich only, he made it 
 -^nnear very plain, that there were 120,000 People 
 bufv'd in the Woollen and Silk Manufaaures of 
 that City only ; not that the People all lived in the 
 Citv tto' Norwich is very large and populous ; but 
 they were employ'd for fpinning the Yarn ufed f(w: 
 fuch Goods as were all made in that City. , 
 
 This (hews the wonderful Extent of the Norwich 
 Manufaaure, or Stuff- weaving Trade by which fo 
 many thoufand Families are maintamed. 
 
 This Throng of Villages continues thro all th» 
 Faft Part of the Country, which is of the greateit 
 
Norfolk. Gr e a t B r I tain. 5' j 
 
 Extent, and where the Manufacture is chiefly carried 
 on : If any Part of it be thin of Inhabitants, it is 
 the Weft Part, drawing a Line from about Brandon, 
 South, to Walfmgham^ North. This Part of the 
 Country indeed is full of open Plains, and fome- 
 what fandy and barren, but yet feeds great Flocks 
 of good Sheepi 
 
 NORWICH is the Capital of the County, and 
 the Centre of all the Trade and Manufactures which 
 I have juft mentioned ; an antient, large, rich, and 
 populous City : If a Stranger was only to ride thro' 
 er view the City of Norwich on ordinary Days, he 
 would be induced to think it a Town without Inha- 
 bitants ; but on the contrary, if he was to view the 
 City, either on a Sabbath-day^ or on any publick 
 Occafion, he would wonder where all the People 
 eould dwell, the Multitude is fo great : But the Cafe 
 is this ; the Inhabitants being all bufy at their Ma- 
 nufactures, dwell in their Garrets at their Looms, 
 and in their Combing- {hops, as they call them, 
 Twifting-mills,- and other Work-houfes ; almoft all 
 the Works they are employ'd in, being done within 
 Doors. There are in this City 32 Parifhes, befides 
 the Cathedral, and a great many Meeting-houfes of 
 Diflenters of all Denominations. The Caftlc is 
 antient and decayed, and now for many Years paft 
 made ufe of for a Gaol. 
 
 This City, as 'tis faid, was built by the Saxons 
 eut Of the Ruins of Venta Icenorum, now called 
 Cajin\ where feme Years fince were found feveral 
 Roman Urns. In the Time of the Saxons it was the 
 principal Seat of the Eaji Angles^ and was reduced to 
 Afties by Sueno the Dane. It was re-edified, and 
 Famine only compelled it to yield to William the 
 Conqueror, 
 
 The famous Rebellion of Kett, the Tanner of 
 Windham^ in the Reign of Edward VI. reduced it 
 again to a ruinous State j but it was j»ppily reftored 
 D 3 
 
54 T O U R thro' Norfolk, 
 
 by Qiieen Elizabeth, who fent hither Part of the 
 Flemings, that came over from the cruel Perfecution 
 of the Duke of Jha ; to whofe Induftry and Ex- 
 ample is owing the rich Manufacture of StufFs, for 
 which this City is fo famous. 
 
 The Walls of this City are reckoned three Miles 
 in Circumference, taking in more Ground than the 
 City of London, within the Walls 5 but much of 
 that Ground lies open in Pafture-fields and Gardens ; 
 nor does it feem to be, like fome antient Places, a 
 decayed declining Town, the Walls only marking 
 out its antient Dimenfions ; for we do not fee room 
 to fuppofe, that it was ever larger or more populous 
 than it is now. But the Walls feem to be placed, 
 as if it was expe61;ed, that the City would in time in- 
 creafe fufficiently to fill them up with Buildings* 
 There are 12 large Gates, v/hich give Entrance to 
 the City. 
 
 The Cathedral is a fine Fabrick, and the ^pire- 
 Scecple beautiful, and, next Salt/bury^ the higheft in 
 Er.gland. It is not antient, the Bifibop's See having 
 been firft at Thetford, from whence it was not 
 tranllated hither till the 12th Century; yet the 
 Church has fo many Antiquities in it, that our late 
 great Scholar and Phyfician, Sir Thomas Brown, 
 thought it worth his while to write a whole Book 
 to collect: the Monuments and Infcriptions in this 
 Church, to which I refer the Reader. It has an 
 Hofpital in it, for loopoor Men and Women, and 
 a fine Market-crofs. That called Bridewell is a 
 large and moft beautiful Building of fquare Flint. 
 
 The River Tare runs through it, and is navigable 
 thus far without the Help of Locks or Stops ; and 
 being increafed by other Waters, pafTes afterwards 
 through a long Track of the richeft Meadovrs, and 
 the largeft, take them all together, tha. are any- 
 where in England, lying for 30 Miles in Length, 
 from this Ciy^ to Yarmouth, including the Return 
 
orfolk. GreatBritain. 5f 
 
 of the faid Meadows on the Bank of the Waveney, 
 cSouth, and on the River Thyrn, North. 
 
 Inhere are Six large Bridges over the River running 
 thro' the City, called Hellefden, Cojlany, Black- 
 fryers^ Tye-bridge, White-friers, and Bijhopfgate 
 'Bridges ; and to repair thefe Bridges, as alio the 
 Walls and Gates, and the City Waftes, Stathes and 
 Wharfs, (which were become fo ruinous, that the 
 ordinary Revenue of the City was infufficient for 
 that Purpofe) an Adi of Parliament paffed in the 
 Year 1725-6. which laid divers Tolls and Impofts 
 on particular Goods and Merchandizes brought into 
 the City ; the Produce of which were alfo to repair 
 the great Roads leading from Norwich towards Lon- 
 don 5 by which means thefe Roads, Bridges, Walls, 
 i^c. were put into good Condition, and kept fo. 
 
 One thing is proper to be mentioned here, which 
 Fliftory accounts not for. It is this : The River 
 JVavcmy is a confidc-rable River, and of a deep and 
 full Chanel, navigable for large Barges as high as 
 Beccles zwH Bungay ; it runs for a Courfe of about 
 50 Miles, between the two Counties of Suffolk and 
 Norfolk^ as a Boundar / to both ; and pulliing for- 
 ward, tho' with a gentle Stream, no one would 
 doubt, when they fee the River growing broader 
 and deeper, and going diredlly towards the Sea, even 
 to the Edge of the Beach, and within a Mile of the 
 main Ocean, but that it would make its Entrance 
 into the Sea at that Place, and afford a noble Harbour 
 for Ships at the Mouth of it ; when, on a fudden, 
 the Land rifing high by the Sea-fide, croffes the 
 Head of the River, like a Dam, checks the whole 
 Courfe of it, and it returns, bending its Courfe 
 W eft, for two Miles, or thereabouts ; and then 
 turning North, thro' another long Courfe of Mea- 
 dows, ( joining to thofe juft now mentioned) feeks 
 out the River Tare^ joins its Water with hers, and 
 both find their Way to the Sea together. 
 
 D 4 Some 
 
f 6 T O U R thro Norfolk. 
 
 Some of our Hiftorians tell a long fabulous Story 
 of this River's being once open, and a famous Har- 
 bour for Ships belonging to the Town of Leoflof 
 adjoining ; but that Yarmouth envying the Prospe- 
 rity of Leojtof^ made War upon them; and that 
 after many bloody Battles, asw^ell by Sea as by Land, 
 they came at laft to a decifive Adtion at Sea with 
 their rcfpeilive Fleets ; but the Leojiof Fleet being 
 overthrown, and utterly deftroyed, the Yarmouth 
 Men either actually flopped up the Mouth of the 
 faid River, or obliged the vanquifhed Leojiof Men 
 to do it themfelves, and bound them never to attempt 
 to open it again. 
 
 I fee no Authority for this Relation, neither do 
 the Relators agree either in the Time or in the Par- 
 ticulars of the Fa£l:. 
 
 In this vaftTra(St of A'leadows are fed a prodigious 
 Number of Black Cattle, which are faid to produce 
 ti^e httt'A Beef, tho' not the largeR, in England > 
 ?nd the Quantity is fo great, as that they not only 
 ft pply the City of Norwich^ the Town of Yarmouth, 
 snd the County adjacent, but fend great Quantities 
 of them weekly, in all the Winter Seafon, to London. 
 
 And this in particular is worthy Remark, That 
 the grofs of all the Scots Cattle, which come yearly 
 into England, are brought to a fmall Village lying 
 North of the City of Norwich, called St. Faith's, 
 where the Norfolk Grafiers go and buy them. 
 
 Thefe Runts, as they call them, coming out 
 of the cold and barren Mountains of the Highlands 
 in Scotland, feed fo eagerly on the rich Pafture in 
 thefe Marflies, that they thrive in an unufual man- 
 ner, and grow very fat ; and the Beef is fo delicious 
 for Tafte, that the Inhabitants prefer them to the 
 Englijh Cattle, which are much larger and fairer to 
 look at. Some have told me, and I believe with 
 Truth, that there are above 40,000 of thefe Scots 
 Cattle fed in this County every Year, and moft of 
 
 them 
 
Norfolk. Great Br I TA IN. 57 
 
 tliem in the Marfhes between Norwich^ Beccles^ and 
 Yarmouth. 
 
 Yarmouth is an antient Town, much older than 
 Norwich j and tho' not extending over fo much 
 Ground, yet better built, and more complete, and 
 not much inferior in Number of Inhabitants ; and 
 for Wealth, TrafEck, and Advantage of its Situation, 
 infinitely fuperior to Norwich. 
 
 It is fituated on a Peninfula between the River 
 Yare and the Sea ; the two laft lying parallel to one 
 another, and the Town in the Middle : The River 
 lies on the Weft-fide of the Town, and being grown 
 very large and deep, by the Receiving of air the 
 Rivers on this fide the County, forms the Haven ; 
 sirnd the Town facing to the Weft alfo, and open to 
 the River, makes the fineft Quay in England^ if not 
 in Europe^ at leaft equalling that Marfeilks itfeif. 
 
 The Ships ride here fo clofe, as it were, keeping 
 up one another, with their Head-fafts on Shore, that 
 for half a Mile together, they goicrofs the Stream 
 with their Boltfprits over the Land, their Bows or 
 Heads touching the very Wharf ; fo that one may 
 walk from Ship to Ship as on a floating Bridge, all 
 along by the Shore-fide, The Quay reaching from 
 the Draw-bridge almoft to the South-gate, is fo 
 fpacious and wide, that in fCme Places *ti.s near lOO 
 Yards from the Houfes to the Wharf. In this 
 pleafant and agreeable Range of Houfes are fome 
 very magnificent Buildings, and, among the reft, the 
 Cuftom-houfe and Town-hall, and fome ATerchants 
 Houfes, which look like little Palaces, rather than 
 the Dwelling-houfes of private Men, 
 
 The greateft Defe6l of this beautiful Town feems 
 to be, that tho' it is very rich, and increafing in 
 Wealth and Trade, and confcquently in People, 
 there is not Room to inlarge it by new Buildings; 
 being precluded on the Weft and South-fides by the 
 River, and on the Eaft-fide by the Sea, fo that there 
 
58 T O U R thro" Norfolk. 
 
 is no Room but on the North-end without the Gate ; 
 and there the Land is not very agreeable : but had 
 they had a larger Space within the Gates, there would 
 feefore now, have been many fpacious Streets of 
 Buildings erefted, as we fee is done in fome other 
 thriving Towns in England. 
 
 During the Fi{hing-fair, as they call it, one fees 
 the Land covered with People, and the River with 
 Barks and Boats, bufy Day and Night, landing and 
 carrying off the Herrings, which they catch "here 
 in almoft incredible Quantities. I happened to 
 be there during their Fifliing-fair, when I told, in 
 one Tide, One hundred and ten Barks and fifning 
 Veffels coming up the River, all leaden with lier- 
 rings, taken the Night before ; and this, over and 
 above what was brought on Shore on the Dean 
 (that is the Sea-fide of the Town) by open Boats, 
 which they call * Cobles, and which often bring in 
 two or three f Lafts of Fifh at a Time. The || Barks 
 often bring ten Lafts apiece. 
 
 This Fiftiing-fair began on Michaehnas-day, and 
 lafts all the Month of OSiober, by which time the 
 Herrings draw off to Sea, fhoot their Spawn, and 
 are no more fit for the Merchants Bufmefs j at leaft 
 not thofe that are taken hereabouts, 
 '-^We have very different Accounts of the Quantity 
 of Herrings caught here, in this Seafon ; fome have 
 faid, that the Tov/ns of Tar?nouth and Leojioff only, 
 have t?.ken 40,000 Lafts in a Seafon : I will not 
 venture to confirm that Report j but I have heard 
 
 * The Cihks ave open Boatf, which come from the North, from 
 Scarhro\ Whitby, &c. and come to Tannouth to let themfelves out 
 to fiih for the Merchants during the Fair-time. 
 
 f A La it is. ten Barrels, each Barrel containing a thoufand 
 Herrings. 
 
 II The B-irks come from the Coaft of Kent and Suffix, as from 
 Faikfloti, Dover, and Rye in Kent, and from Brighthehnjlon in Suffix, 
 and let themfeives out to fifli for the Meichants during the faid 
 fair, as the Coblci do from the Nortli, 
 
 the 
 
Norfolk. Great Britain. 59 
 
 the Merchants themfelves fay, that they have cured 
 lo'ooo Barrels of merchantable red Hernngs m one 
 Scafon, which (tho' far ftort of the other) js a very 
 conuderable Article ; and it is to be added, that thefe 
 are over and above all the Herrings confumed in the 
 Country Towns of both thofe populous Counties^ 
 for -20 Miles from the Sea, whither very great 
 Quantities are carried every Tide during the whole 
 
 ^'fiut* this is only one Branch of the great Trade 
 carried on in this Town ; another Part of its Com- 
 merce is in the exporting thefe Herrings after they 
 are cured ; and for this its Merchaji^ have a great 
 Trade to Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Mejfina, ^nd Femce 
 asalfoto%/« and Portugal; exporting likewife 
 with their Herrings great Quantities of Worfted 
 Stufts, and Stuffs made of Silk and Worfted ; Cam- 
 blets, yc. the Manufaftures of the neighbouring 
 City of Norwich, and of the Places adjacent. 
 
 Befides this, they carry on a very confiderable 
 Trade with Holland, exporting a vaft Quantity of 
 Woollen Manu fadurcs every Year. Alfo they have 
 a Fiftiing-trade to the North Seas for white _b ilh, 
 which from the Place are called the North Sea Cod. 
 
 They have likewife a confiderable Trade to Nor- 
 way, and to the Baltkk, from whence they bring 
 back Deals, and Fir Timber, Oaken Plank, Baulks, 
 Spars, Oars, Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Flax, Canvas, 
 and Sail-cloth ; with all manner of Naval Stores, 
 for which they generally have a Confumption in their 
 own Port, where they build a very great Number 
 of Ships every Year, befides refitting and repairing 
 the old. J 
 
 Add to this the Coal- trade between Newcajile and 
 the River of Thames, in which they are fo improved 
 of late Years, that they have now a greater Share of 
 it than any other Tomi in England; and have 
 quite worked the Ipfxvkh Men out of it, who had 
 D 6 formerly 
 
6o T O U R thro' Norfolk. 
 
 ormerly the chief Share of the Colliery \n their 
 Hands. 
 
 For the carrying on all thefe Trades, they have a 
 very great Number of Ships, either of their own, 
 or employed by them ; and it may in fome meafure 
 be judged of by this. That in the Year 1697. I ^ad 
 an Account from the Town Regifter, that there 
 vvere then 1 123 Sail of Ships ufing the Sea, belonging 
 to the Town, befides fuch Ships as the Merchants 
 of Yarmouth might be concerned in, and be Part- 
 owners of, belonging to any other Ports. 
 
 To all this I muft add, without Compliment to 
 the Town, that the Merchants, and even the gene- 
 rality of Traders of Yarmouth^ have a very good 
 Reputation in Trade, as well Abroad as at Home, 
 for fair and honourable Dealing j and their Seamen 
 as well Mafters as Mariners, are juftly efteemed 
 among the ableft and moft expert Navigators in 
 England. 
 
 This Town, however populous and large, had till 
 lately but one Parifh-church, dedicated to St. Nicolas ^ 
 tho' it is very large. It has a high Spire, which is 
 an ufeful Sea-mark. It was built by that famous 
 Bifhop of Norwich^ William Herbert^ who flourifhed 
 in the Reign of William II. and Henry I. WiUiatn 
 of Malmjbury calls him Vir pecuniofus, from the 
 Works of Charity and Munificence, which he has 
 left as WitnelTes of his immenfe Riches j for he 
 built the Cathedral Church, the Priory for 60 Monks, 
 the Bifliop's Palace, and the Parifh-church of St. 
 Leonard^ all in Norwich ; this great Church at 
 Yarmouth.^ the Church of St, Margaret at Lynn^ 
 and of St. Mary at Elmham. He removed the 
 Kpifcopal See from Tloetford to Norwich., and infti- 
 tuted the Cluniack Monks at Thetford, and gave 
 them, or built them, a Houfe. 
 
 But in the Reigns of Queen Jnne, and the late 
 King Gforge I. two ASis paffed for Building a new 
 
 Churcli 
 
Norfolk. Great Br IT A IN. ^ 6i 
 
 Church or Chapel of Eafe in Tarmoutb, and for 
 enlightening the Streets of the Town, and other 
 Purpofes, all which is performed in fo complete a 
 manner as is worthy of the Place. 
 
 Alfo in the Year 1723. an A(St pafTed for Clearing, 
 Depthening, Repairing, Extending, Maintaining and 
 Improving the Haven and Piers of Yarmouth, and for 
 depthening and making more navigable the feveral 
 Rivers emptying themfelves at that Town ; and alfo 
 for preferving of Ships wintering in the Haven from 
 Accidents by Fire : This Provifion was a very ne^ 
 ceflary one ; for the Haven is fb very commodious 
 for the fecure and fafe lying of Ships in the Winter 
 Seafon, that feveral hundred Sail are yearly laid up 
 and winter in it, which lie fo contiguous to one an- 
 other, and fo near the Houfes, that in cafe of Fire, 
 not only the Ships, but the Town, would be in 
 Danger of being totally deftroyed. 
 
 Here is one of the fineft Market-places, and the 
 beft ferved with Provifions in England, London ex- 
 cepted. The Streets are all exa6tly ftrait from North 
 to South, from Lanes or Alleys, which they call 
 Rows, croffing them in ftrait Lines alfo from Eaft to 
 Weft ; fo that it is the moft regular-built Town in 
 England, and feems as if it had been ereded all at 
 once upon one uniform Plan. 
 
 They have particular Privileges in this Town, and 
 a Jurifdi6lion by which they can try, condemn, 
 and execute in efpecial Cafes, without waiting for 
 a Warrant from Above ; and this they exerted once 
 very fmartly, in executing a Captain of one of the 
 King'sShips of War in the Reign of King Charles 1^.' 
 for a Murder committed in the Street ; the Cir- 
 cumftance of which did indeed call for Juftice : but 
 feme thought they would not have ventured to exert 
 their Power as they did ; however, I never heard 
 that the Government refented it, or blamed them 
 for it. 
 
 It 
 
6i ^ T O U R thro' Norfolk. 
 
 It is a very well governed Town ; and I have no- 
 where m England obferved the Sabbath-day (oGxzGdy 
 kept, or the Breach of it fo conftantly puniQied, as in 
 this Place, which I mention to their Honour. 
 
 From Tarynouth I refolved to purfue my firfl: De- 
 fign, vi%. To view the Sea-fide on thisCoaft-, which 
 is particularly noted for being one of the moft dan- 
 gerous and moft fatal to the Sailors in all Britain ; 
 and the more fo, becaufe of the great Number of 
 Shi^^s Tvhich are continually going and coming this 
 Way, in their Paflage between London and all the 
 Northern Coafts of Great Britain. 
 
 The Reafon of which is, that tlie Shore from the 
 Mouth of the River of Thames to Yarmouth Road, 
 lies in a ftrait Line from South-fouth-eaft to North- 
 north- weft, the Land being on the Weft or Larboard 
 Side. From Winter tonne fs^ which is the utmoft 
 eafterly Point of Land in the County of Norfolk., 
 and about four Miles beyond Yarmouth.^ the Shore 
 falls off for near 60 Miles to the Weft, as far as Lynn 
 and Bojion, till the Shore of Lincolnjhire tcmh'Noxth 
 again for about 60 Miles more, as far as the Humber ; 
 whence the Coz^ of York/hire, or Holdernefs^ which 
 is the Eaft-Riding, fhoots out again into the Sea, to 
 the Spurn, and to Flatnbro^ Head, as far Eaft almoft 
 as the Shore of Norfolk had given back at JVinterton, 
 making a very deep Gulph, or Bay, between thofe 
 two Points of Winterton and the Spurn Head 3 fo that 
 the Ships going North are obliged to ftretch away 
 to Sea from Winterionmfs ; and leaving the Sight of 
 Land in the deep Bay I have mentioned, that reaches 
 to Lynn, and the Shore of Lincoln/hire, tbey go, as I 
 obferved. North or ftill North-north-weft, to meet 
 the Shore of Holdernefs, which, as I faid, runs out 
 into the Sea again at the Spurn ; this they leave alfo, 
 and the firft Land they make, is called as above, 
 Flambro'' Head ; fo that IViniertonnefs and Lla?n- 
 hro' Head are the two Extremes of this Courfe. 
 
 There 
 
Norfolk. Great Britain. 6j 
 
 There is, indeed, the Spurn Head between ; but as 
 it lies too far in towards the Number, they keep out 
 to the North to avoid coming near it. 
 
 In like manner the Ships which come from the 
 North, leave the Shore at Flambro' Head, and 
 ftretch away South-fouth-eaft for Yarmouth Roads ; 
 and the firft Land they make is JVintertonnefs, as 
 above. Now, the Danger of the Place is this : If 
 the Ships coming from tiie North are taken with a 
 hard Gale of Wind from the South-eall, or from 
 any Point betv/een North-eaft and South-eair, fo 
 that they cannot weather Wintertonnefs^ thev are 
 thereby kept within that deep Bay \ aiid if the Wind 
 blows hard, are often in Danger of running on Shore 
 vipon the Rocks about Cromere, on the North-coaft 
 g{ Norfolk, or ftranding upon the flat Shore between 
 Cromere and IVelJs. All the Relief they have, is good 
 Ground-tackle to ride it out, which is very hard to 
 do there, the Sea coming very high upon them ; or 
 if they cannot ride it out, then to run into the Bot- 
 tom of the great Bay, to Lynn or Bojlon, which is a 
 very difficult and defperate Pufti : fo that fometimes 
 in this Diftrefs whole Fleets have been loft here all 
 together. 
 
 In the fame Danger are Ships going Northv/ard ; 
 for if, after paffing by Winterton, they are taken 
 fiiort with a North-eaft Wind, and cannot put back 
 into the Roads, which very often happens, they are 
 driven upon the fame Coaft, and embay 'd juft as 
 the latter. The Danger on the North-part of this 
 Bay is not the fame, becaufe if Ships going or coming 
 fliould be taken fhort on this fide Flambro' , there is 
 the River Huniber open to them, and feveral good 
 Roads to have rccourfe to ; as Burlington Bay, 
 Grlmfby Road, tl^e Spurn Head, and others, where 
 they ride under Shelter. 
 
 The Dangers of this Place being thus confidered, 
 'tis no V7onder, that upon the Shore beyond Tar- 
 mouthy 
 
64 TOUR thrcf. Norfolk. 
 
 mouthy there are no lefs than Four Light-houfes kept 
 flaming every Night, befides the Lights at Cajfor^ 
 North of the Town, and at Gouljlon^ South. All 
 which are to dire£l the Sailors to keep a good Offing, 
 in cafe of bad Weather, and to prevent their running 
 into Cromere-bay, v/hich the Seamen call the DeviN 
 'Throat. 
 
 As I went by Land from Yarmouth North-weft, 
 along the Shore towards Cromere aforefaid, and was 
 not then fully Mafter of the Reafon of thefe things-, 
 Lwas furprifed to fee, in all the Way from IVinterton^ 
 that the Farmers, and Country People had fcarce a 
 Barn, Shed, Stable, or Pales to their Yards and 
 Gardens, or a Hog-ftye, or Neceflary-houfe, but 
 what was built of old Planks, Beams, Wales and 
 Timber, ^c. the deplorable Wrecks of Ships, and 
 Ruins of Mariners and Merchants Fortunes ; and in 
 fome Places were whole Yards filled, and piled up 
 very high, with the fame Stuff laid up. for the like 
 building Purpofes. 
 
 About the Year 1692. there was a melancholy 
 Example of what I have faid of this Place : A Fleet 
 of 200 Sail of light Colliers went out of Yarmouth 
 Roads with a fair Wind, to purfue their Voyage, 
 and were taken ftiort with a Storm of Wind^^at 
 North-eaft. After they were pz{ilVintertonnefs^ :i 
 few Leagues, fome of them, whofe Maflers made a 
 better Judgment of Things, or who were not fo far 
 out as the reft, tacked and put back in time, and 
 got fafe into the Roads ; but the reft, pufliing on, in 
 hopes to keep out to Sea, and weather it, were by 
 the Violence of the Storm driven back, when they 
 were too far embay'd to weather TVintertotinefs^ a 
 above ; and fo were forced to run Weft, every one 
 Ihiftingfor themfelves, as well. as they could i fome 
 run away for Lynn Deeps, but fev/ of them (the 
 Night being fo dark) could find their Way thither; 
 fome, but very few, rid it out, at a Diftance ; the 
 
 reft, 
 
 I 
 
Norfolk. Gre AT Britaik. 65 
 
 reft, being above 140 Sail^ were all driven on Shore, 
 and dafhed to Pieces, and very few of the People on 
 Board were faved. At the very fame unhappy 
 Juncture, a Fleet of loaden Ships were coming from 
 the North, and being juft croffing the fame Bay,, 
 were forcibly driven into it, not able to weather the- 
 Nefs, and fo were involved in the fame Ruin as the 
 light Fleet was ; alfo fome coafting Veffels loaden 
 with Corn from Lynn and JVells, and bound for 
 Holland, were with the fame unhappy Luck juft 
 come out, to begin their Voyage, and fome of them 
 lay at Anchor : thefe alfo met with the fame Mif- 
 fortune, fo that in the whole, above 200 Sail of 
 Ships, and above 1000 People, were loft in the 
 Difafter of that one miferable Night, very few 
 cfcaping. 
 
 Cromere is a T^darket-town clofe to the Shore of this 
 dangerous Coaft : I know nothing it is famous for 
 (belides its being thus the Terror of the Sailors) 
 except good Lobfters, which are taken on thatCoaft 
 in great Numbers, and carried to Norwich, and in 
 fuch Qiiantities fometimes too, as to be conveyed by 
 Sea to London. 
 
 Farther within the Land, and between this Place 
 and Norwich, are feveral good Market-towns, and a 
 great many Villages, all diligently applying to the 
 Woollen Manufadture, and the Country is exceeding 
 fertile, as well in Corn as Pafture ; particularly, 
 (which was very pleafant to fee) the Pheafants were 
 in fuch great Plenty, as to be feen in the Stubble like 
 Cocks and Hens ; a Teftimony tho' (by the. way) 
 that the County had more Tradefmen than Gentle- 
 men in it. Indeed this Part is fo intirely given up to 
 Induftry, that v/hat with the Seafaring-men on the 
 one Side, and the Manufactures on the other, we 
 faw no idle Hands here, but every Man bufy. Some 
 of the principal of thefe Towns are j. 
 
 I. Hickling 
 
66 ^ T O U R thro' 'Norfolk. 
 
 1. HicHing and North-Waltham^ noted only for 
 a Market each. 
 
 2. Aljham^ a poor Town, noted for Knitters. 
 
 3. J'VorJled^ for tJie Invention and twifiincr of 
 Yarn, fo called ; alfo famed for Stockens and Stuffs. 
 
 4. Cation, noted for a brazen Hand being carried 
 before the Steward of the Demefne, inftead of a 
 Mace, and for a Bridge over the Duze. 
 
 5. -^^^'/i/'(7;;2, for a good Malt-market; having; no 
 Church at all out of three: for there are only the 
 Ruins of one of them ftanding. 
 
 6. Holt, for giving two Lord Mayors of the 
 Name of Gj-efiam (who were Brothers) to London, 
 in 1532. ^547- 
 
 7. Fakcnham, noted for nothing at all, but for- 
 merly for h.aving Salt-pits ; and, 
 
 8. St, Faiths, whither the Drovers bring their 
 Black Cattle to fell to the Norfolk Graziers, as I 
 cbferved above. 
 
 Not far from Cromere is Grejham, the Birth-place 
 of the generous Founder of the P..oyal Exchange and 
 Grejham College, London. 
 
 Irom Cromere v/e rode on the Strand or open 
 Shore to IVeyburn Hope, the Shore fo flat, that in 
 fome Places the Tide ebbs out near two Miles : 
 From /;^_)/ii«r« Weft lies C.}-^, where there are large 
 Salt-works, and very good Salt made, which is fold 
 all over the County, andfometimes fent to Holland, 
 and T.O V) '::-:}ck. From Clye we go to Mar ham, 
 and to Wells, all Towns on the Coaft, in each 
 whereof there is a very confiderable Trade carried on 
 with Holland for Corn, which that Part of the 
 County is very full of, befides the great Trade driven 
 here from Holland, back again ; which I take to be 
 a Trade carried on v/ith much lefs Honefty than Ad- 
 vantage, efpecially while the Art of Smuggling was 
 fo much in Practice, which the Laws have of late 
 
 rendered 
 
Si'orfolk. Great Britain. 
 
 rendered more difficult than it was ; tho' far from 
 fuppreffing it. 
 
 The Seven Burnhajns, which are fo many fmall 
 Towns called by the fameName, and each employed 
 in the fame Holland Trade as Marhamznd TVelh^ lie 
 on and neai: the Sea-ccaft to the North-weft of 
 Walfingham. 
 
 From the Sea-coaft we turned to the South-weft^ 
 thro' Snetham^ a fmall Market- town, to Cojlle- 
 Rifing^ an old decayed Borough Town, with hardly 
 Ten Families in it, which yet fends Two Members 
 to Parliament ; but (hews a great many Marks of 
 
 I Roman^ Saxon, and DaniJI) Antiquities in and about 
 
 * it. 
 
 On our Left we faw JValfingham, an antient 
 i Town, famous for the old Ruins of a Monaftery 
 there, and the Shrine of our Lady, as noted as 
 that of St. Thomas-a-Becket at Canterbury ; hence" 
 called. Our Lady of Walfingham. Two Wells here 
 are ftill called by the Name of the Blejfed Virgin. 
 
 Near this Place, ztRaynham, is the Seat of the Lord 
 Y\{co\xntTownJhend ; and not far diftant, ?itHoughtonj 
 that noble new-built one of Sir Robert Walpole ; the 
 Gardens and Plantations of which are very large and 
 beautiful. 
 
 The general Plan and Front of the Houfe and 
 Offices extend to 450 Feet ; the great Hall is a 
 Circle of 40 Feet ; the Salon 40 by 30 Feet ; and 
 all the other Rooms in the four great Apartments 
 are 18 Feet high ; the Attick Story is 12 Feet high, 
 , and the Ruftick Story the fame, all above Ground, 
 under which is an intire Story of Cellars all arched. 
 The Front to the great Entrance extends to 166 
 Feet, lying open to the Park. The Building is 
 finiflied with two Towers, drefted with two Ruftick 
 Venetian Windows. The Sedion of the great Hall 
 all in Stone, the moft beautiful in England. The 
 whole Building is of Stone, and without pretending 
 
68 T O U R thro' Norfolk. 
 
 to excufe any Teeming or real Defect, it may be 
 truly faid to be a Houfe of State and Conveniency 
 worthy of a Prince's Refidence. 
 
 Thisftately Structure, begun in the Year 1722, v/as 
 completely finifhed, Infide and Outfide, in the Year 
 1735. the noble Founder having had the fmgular 
 Felicity all the time to continue at the Helm of 
 Affairs, as he does frill, Anno i-^^i. 
 
 On the Foundation-ftone, placed in the South- 
 cafl. Angle, is this Infcription : 
 
 Wc me ppjuit 
 ROBERTUS ilk WALPOLE, 
 tu non refcies, Pofteritas] 
 Ftmdamen ut e£'erH Domus 
 In Agro Natali extruenda, 
 24« die Maii, A, D. mdccxxji. 
 
 Faxit Deus, 
 Pojlquam maturus avi Dcmivu: 
 Diu latatu fuerit, abfoluta, 
 Jncolumem tueantur incolumes^ 
 Ad fummam Diem, 
 Et Nati Natorj/m, & qui nafcetttur 
 ah illis. 
 
 Which may be EnglifTied thus. 
 Here that Sir ROBERT WAL^ 
 POLE, with whom, O Pofte- 
 rity! thou lhalt not be unac- 
 quainted, has fixed me to ftand 
 as the Foundation of a Seat de- 
 figned to be built in his nativa 
 County, the 24th Day of May 
 in the Year 1722. God grant, 
 that after its Matter, to a ma- 
 ture OJd Age, fhall have long 
 enjoy'd itin Perfeftion, hislatelt' 
 De.'cendants may fafely and fe- 
 curely poffefs it to the End. of ) 
 Time. 
 
 The noble Founder had doubtlefs in his Thoughts, 
 in this Infcription, the uncertain State of Prime Mi- 
 niflers, and of the fuperb Struftures built by them in 
 the Height of their Power in all Ages and Countries ; 
 and we hope the Merits of him and his Defcendants 
 to their native Country mayindiice the, Almighty to 
 give a Fiat to. his Prayer. 
 
 We proceeded hence to Lynn, another rich and 
 populous Port-town, well built, and well fituated, 
 at the Mouth of the River Oufe ; which lias the 
 greatefl Extent of inland Navigation, of any Port 
 in England, London excepted. The Reafon vvherer 
 of is, that more navigable Rivers empty them- 
 felv.es here into the Sea, including the Waflies, 
 
 whicli 
 
Norfolk. Great Britain. 6p 
 
 which are Branches of the fame Port, than at any 
 •one Mouth of Waters in England^ except the 
 Thames and the Humber. By thefe navigable Rivers 
 the Merchants of Lynn fupply about fix Counties 
 wholly, and three Counties in Part, with their 
 Goods, efpecially Wine and Coals ; vi%. By the 
 little Oufe, they fend their Goods to Brandon and 
 Thetford y by the Lake, to Mildenhall, Barton- 
 Mills, and St. Edmund/bury ; by the River Gr^«/ to 
 
 ■ Cambridge j by the great Oufe itfelf, to Ely, io St. 
 > Ives, to St. Neots, to Barford-bridge, and to Bed- 
 
 ■ ford ; by the River Nyne, to Peterboro' ; by the 
 Drains andWafhes to mjbich, to Spalding, Adarket- 
 deeping, and Stamford ; befides the feveral Counties, 
 into which thefe Goods are carried by Land Carriage, 
 from the Places where the Navigation of thofe 
 Rivers ends ; which has given Rife to this Obferva- 
 
 i tion on the Town of Lynn, That they bring in 
 more Coals, than any Sea-port between London and 
 Newcajile, and import more Wines than any Port 
 in England, except London and Brijiol i their Trade 
 to Norway, and to the Baltick Sea, is alfo great in 
 I Proportion, and of late Years they have extended it 
 I farther to the Southward. 
 
 There are many Gentry, and confequently more 
 ' Gayety, in this Town than in Yarmouth, or even 
 \ Norwich, the Place abounding in very good Com- 
 ' pany ; and indeed it is fo confiderable, that it merits 
 ' as particular a Defcription as the Nature of this 
 Work will admit ; and which, therefore, I will 
 give as fuccin£tly as I can. 
 
 To begin then : This Town was firft called 
 Lynn-Epifcopi, as the Property of the Biftiop of 
 Norwich, till the Diflblution of Monafteries by 
 King Henry VIIL when that Prince, becoming its 
 Poffeflbr, conferred oii it the Name of Lynn 
 Regis, 
 
 It 
 
70 ^ T O U R thro' Norfolk. 
 
 It is fituated towards the Mouth of the Great Oufc^ 
 encompaffed with a deep Trench, walled almoft all 
 round, containing about 2400 Houfes, and divided 
 by four Rivulets arclied over with about 15 Bridges. 
 It extends along the Eaft-fide of the River ; which 
 in high Spring-tides flows above 20 Feet perpendi- 
 cular, and is about the Breadth of the Thames ?^hovQ 
 Bridge, for the Length of a Mile, and is divided 
 into nine Wards. On the North-end, towards the 
 Sea, ftands St. Anne's Fort^ with a Platform of 12 
 large Guns, commanding all Ships which pafs by the 
 Harbour; and towards the Land, befides the Wall, 
 there are nine regular Baftions and a Ditch, nearly 
 in the Form of a Semicircle, which make it above 
 half a Mile in Breadth. The Town is fo antient as 
 to be fuppofed the fame with Maiden- Bower., ac- 
 cording to feveral old Hiftorians. 
 
 It has many remarkable Places, which deferve m 
 more particular Defcription than I have Room for 
 however, I fhall touch upon them briefly ; as, 
 St. Margaret's Church, the Town-hall, Bridetvell, 
 the Cujlom-houfe and Exchange., the Market- crofs 
 St. Nicolas's Chapel, All-Saints Church, the Free 
 School thQ Hofpitals, the Statue of King James II, 
 Kmg John's Sword and Cup, the common Stath- 
 yard,^ the Ladfs Mount, the publick Libraries, the 
 Y^\n^sStath-yard, and other Remarkables, ofwhic: 
 in their Order ; and firfl: of St. Margarets Church. 
 
 This Church, which was formerly an Abbey, and 
 is one of the largeft Parochial Churches in England, 
 IS adorned with a very fair and high Lanthorn, 
 covered with Lead, containing the Clock-bell, lately 
 caft, which may be heard all over the Town. Its 
 Height is 132 Feet. At the Weft-end ftands a 
 Stone Tower, 82 Feet high ; and facing the Street a 
 Moon-dial, defigned to tell the Increafe andDecreafe 
 of that Planet, with the exaft Hour of the Day. 
 It moves by Clock-work. Over the Tower is a 
 
 Spire 
 
Norfolk. G R E A T B Ri TAi N. 71 
 
 Spire 193 Feet high in form of a Pyramid ; near to 
 which is the Bell- cower built of Free-ftone, 86 Feet 
 high, containing a Ring of eight Bells. In this 
 Church is kept the Bilhop's Court, when he comes 
 hither on his Vifitation. 
 
 ■^■"TheTown-houfe, cdlled Trinity- ha 11^ isanantient 
 aiul noble Building, which makes a fine Appearance. 
 
 Adjoining to it is the Houfe of Correilion called 
 Bridewell^ with Apartments proper for the Reception 
 of fuch as are put there ; who beat and drefs Hemp 
 during their Confinement. 
 
 The Exchange is a fair Structure of Free-ftone, 
 with two Orders of Columns, fituated in the Middle 
 of the Town, and built at the Expence of Sir John 
 Turner^ Knight ; and within it is the Cnjiom-houfe, 
 containing feveral commodious Apartments. 
 
 The Market-houfe is a new Edifice of Free-ftone, 
 in the modern Tafte, 70 Feet high, ere£led on four 
 Steps, neatly adorned with Statues, and other Em- 
 bellifhments ; with an Infcription giving an Account 
 of its former Condition, and prefent Rebuilding. 
 
 St. Nicolas^s Chapel is very antient, and ftands at 
 the North-end of the Town. It is an Appendage 
 to St. Margaref^., and is efteemed one of the faireft 
 and largeft religious Fabricks in England ; it has a 
 Bell- tower of Free-ftone, and a pyramidical o6lan- 
 gular Spire over it, both which together are 170 
 Feet from the Ground. 
 
 Jll-Saints Church, in South- Lynn, belonged for- 
 merly to the Carmelite and fVhite Friers, on the 
 Ruins of whofe Monaftery it is built. Tho' not 
 large, it is neat, folid and regular, in form of a 
 Crofs, within a Church-yard well walled in. 
 
 On the North-fide of St. Alargaret's Church-yard 
 is the Free-fchool, a ftrong and beautiful Building. 
 
 The only Fabrick formerly belonging to any re- 
 ligious Order, now ftanding, is the Grey- Fryers 
 Steeple, a noted Sea-mark j which was repaired and 
 
 amended 
 
72 T O U R thro' Norfolk. 
 
 amended out of the Ruins of a demolifhed Chapel 
 in the Year 1539. It may not be amifs to mention 
 here a remarkable and laudable Order, that was made 
 in the Year 1588. That on every firft Monday in 
 the Month there fliould be a Meeting of the Mayor, 
 Aldermen, fome of the Common-Council, and the 
 Preachers, in order to fettle Peace and Quietnefs be- 
 tween Man and Man, and to decide all manner of 
 Controverfies : this was called The Feaji of Recori' 
 dilation. 
 
 In the Parifh of All- Saints is a fmall Hofpital 
 for four poor Men to live rent-free. St. Mary 
 Magdalen's Hofpital^ founded in the Reign of King 
 Stephen, for a Prior, and 12 Brethren and Sifters, 
 continued in a flourifhing Condition about 400 
 Years ; and devolved to the Crown at the making 
 the Statute for Diftblution of religious Houfes in the 
 Reign of Edward VL in whofe Time it was robbed, 
 and almoft levelled with the Ground, by Ketfs 
 Mutineers, at their Return from their fruftrated At- 
 tempt to furprife Lynn : fo that it remained deftitute 
 of Brethren and Sifters, except fome poor People, 
 whom the Mayor and Burgefles maintained with 
 Defign to fupport the antient Hofpital, till King 
 James I. upon Petition reftored them their Lands, 
 granted them many Privileges, and incorporated 
 them : but in the Year 1643. it was a fecond time 
 d-^ftroy'd by Fire by the Earl of Manchejier'% Forces, 
 v/hen they befieged Lynn, then ftanding out for the 
 King. In the Year 1649. the Corportation rebuilt 
 it very commodioufly, as at prefent, with two Courts, 
 a Chapel, and convenient Apartments for theMaftery 
 Brethren, and Sifters, and feveral Infcriptions com- 
 memorating the late Difafter. It is now committed 
 to the Care of Two of the Elder Aldermen, chofen 
 for that Purpofe by the other Governors. 
 
 There is in the great Market-place a Statue erased 
 in the Year 1686. to the Honour of King 11. 
 
 a with 
 
Norfolk. GreatBritain. 73 
 
 with an Infci ipdou that may fcrvc for a Satire on the 
 undue Conophments which are frequently paid to 
 Princes, during the Time of their Profperity. It 
 ftands on a Pedeftal, which has fcveral Embelhfli- 
 ments, and is inclofed within a Palifade of Iron, 
 The Infcription is as follows : 
 
 Kon iv'.memor 
 QuartumDi'uiiiis iirviFtijJ'.Principii 
 J A C O B I JI. 
 Virtutibits deheat, 
 Hanc Regies Mj]:lictt:< F.ffi^hm, 
 ^teimim Fidii a Q!'fcquii 
 M'jnurr.entum, crcxit 
 
 S. P. i^., L. 
 Anno ^aluiis i6S6. 
 
 In Englifn, thus : 
 T'le Aldeimen and Common Coun- 
 cil of I.'/nn, not forgetting how 
 much they owe to tha divine 
 Virtues of the invincible King 
 javies II. as a lifting Monu- 
 ment of thL'ir Faith and Loyalty , 
 Imvc ercded this Statue of his 
 Rcyal Majcfty, Anno i5S6. 
 
 In 1682. an old ruinous Building, which was once 
 a Chapel, was, by the Corporation, and other In- 
 habitants, made a publick Pveceptacle for poor Chil- 
 dren to learn to fpinWooll : here they are alfo taught 
 to read. It is now, by A£l of Parliament, fettled 
 and vefted in the Guardians of the Poor, 
 
 There was a Church formerly in the Town, dedi- 
 cated to St. John, and belonging to the Hofpital of 
 that Name, both which arealike extin61:. 
 
 The Corporation boafts of having been prefenteS 
 by King John with a very rich double-gilt Cup and 
 Cover, weighing 73 Ounces, which is preferved to 
 this Day, and ufed on publick Occafions ; and at 
 the fame time a large Sword, with a Silver Mount- 
 ing, from his own Side, as is engraven on the In- 
 fcription on the Hilc. 
 
 The Entrance into tlie commori Sto.i])-yard from 
 the Tuefday Market is by two large Gate-v/ays witli 
 habitable Rooms over them. It is a beautiful large 
 fquare Area, vt'ith a commodious Quay or Wharf, 
 furrounded with Ware- houfes and Granaries for all 
 forts of Merchandize with fpacious Vaults. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 E 
 
 At 
 
74 ^ T O U R thro Norfolk. 
 
 At a fmall Diflance from the Town, ftands a 
 ruinous Pile, called The Lady's Mounts or Red 
 ' Mount ; wherein formerly was a Chapel dedicated 
 to the Blefled Virgin, which ferved as a Rcceptacl-e 
 tor Pilgrims travelHng this Way towards the eel Vi- 
 brated Convent of Our Lady at Walfingham. 
 
 'J.'he Library at St. JSIicolas was ere£ted by a vo- 
 luntary Subfcription of fevcral Hundred Pounds ; to 
 which the late Lord Townjhend, (who took his Titlj 
 of Baron from this Town) Sir Robert Walpole^ Sir 
 CJ)arles Turner, TunA Robert Br itiffe, Efq; deceafed, 
 were confiderable BenefaiSlors. There is alfo another 
 Library at St. Margaret's., to which the late Thomas 
 Thiirlin, D. D. Prefident of St. John's in Cam- 
 bridge, bequeathed all his Books ; and alfo left an 
 Exhibition of Six Pounds a Year to a poor Scholar, 
 who Ihould go from the Grammar-fchool to St. 
 John's Colh2,c .Ca?nbridge ; and forty Shillings 
 Yearly towards the Cloathing three of the pooreft 
 Inhabitants of, Gayivood, . & c . 
 
 The Lihab;tants oiLynn fufFer great Inconvenience 
 from the want of frelh-water Springs within the 
 Town ; v/ith .which Element, however, they are 
 fupplied from a River running by Gaywood, and by 
 leaden Pipes from Mlddleton and MlntUng. 
 
 ^Y\itQ\\mz\\o{ St.. Edmund^ m North- Lynn., was 
 lojiz ago intirely fvvallowed up by the Sea. 
 
 'Fhe King's Stath-yard is a very handfome Square, 
 with Brick Buildings fronting each Way ; in the 
 Centi e of v/hich ftands the Statue of James I. in a 
 Nich fronting the Weft. Here the greateft Part of 
 imnorttd Wines are landed, as it has a convenient 
 Qi^lay, and large Wine-vaults. 
 
 At the South-end of the Town ftood an OjI- 
 riill, framed in Holland, and brought over hither 
 iv-;ir ICO Years ago. It gave a pleafant Profped to 
 c ■ Part of the Town ; but in the Year 1737. 
 •.v..s'c ^n fumed by Fire 
 
 From 
 
Norfolk. Great Brita I N. 75" 
 
 From what has been faid, it will be dbferved, 
 that the Situation of this Town renders it capable 
 of being made very flrong ; and in the late Wars it 
 was fo, a Line of Fortification being drawn round 
 it at a Diftance from tiie Walls ; the Ruins, or 
 rather Reeiains of which Works appear to this Day ; 
 nor would it be a hard Matter to reftore theBaftionr, 
 with the Ravelins and Counterfcarp, upon any fud- 
 den Emergency, to a good State of Defence ; efpe- 
 cially becaufe they are able to fill all their Ditches 
 with Water from the Sea, in fuch a manner as that 
 it cannofbe drawn off. 
 
 Xhey pafs over here in Boats into the Fen Coun- 
 try, and over the famous Wafiies into L'mcolnj})ire ; 
 but the Paflage is very dangerous and uncafy ; for 
 here Paflengers often mifcarry, and are loft ; but 
 then it is ufually on their venturing at improper 
 times, and without the Guides, whidi if they 
 would be perfuaded not to do, they would very rarely 
 fail of going or coming fafe. 
 
 From Lynn^ I bent my Courfe Southward to 
 Downham^ where is an uglv wooden Bridge over 
 the Oufe \ at which, as HoUlngfliead informs us, in 
 OSiober i c;68. were taken 17 monftrous Fillies, from 
 20 to 27 Feet long. 
 
 When we were at Doivnham^ we took a Turn to 
 the antient Town of Thetford, fituated partly in 
 JNorfolk, and partly in Suffolk. It was raifed on the 
 Riiins of the antient Sitomagiis, which was deftroy'd 
 by the Danes. It is at prefent but meanly built ; 
 but by the Ruins of Churches and Monafteries ftill 
 remaining, appears to have been formerly of great 
 Account ; and even fo far back as theTim^ of King 
 Edward the Confe [for ^ it had 947 Burgefies, and in 
 that of William the Conqueror 720 Manfions, Oil 
 the Suffolk Side there now remain the Ruins of fix 
 Churches and Monafteries, and there were feveral 
 Others in the Town i but now there are but three 
 E 2 Parlih 
 
76 ^ T O U k thro Norfolk. 
 
 Parifli Churches {landing intire, one on the Suffolk^ 
 and two on the Norfolk Side. It is, however, a 
 Town Corporate, governed by a Mayor, Alderme]i 
 and Common-council ; has three annual Fairs, a 
 plentiful weekly Market, and is a kind of See 
 lufFragan to that of Norwich. In the 7th Year of 
 King "James I. an A61 paffed for the Founding of an 
 Hofpital, a Grammar-fchool, and Maintenance of a 
 Preacher in this Town for ever, according to the lail 
 Will of Sir Richard Fulmarjion : And Sir jfofiph 
 TViiliamfon, Secretary of State to King Charles 11. 
 built here a new Council-houfe, and was otherwifea 
 good Benefa6lor to the Place. The Lent Aixizts are 
 ufually held here. 
 
 From Thetford we crolTed the Oufe., to Brandon^ 
 which gives the Title of an EngliJh]J\ik& to Duke 
 Hamilton of Scotland. This is no ill-built Town, and 
 has a good Church belonging to it. It gave a Lord 
 Mayor to London, Anno 1445 ' '^'*^' '^^^ Simon Eyre, 
 Draper, who built Leadenhall for the Ufe of the 
 City, and left 5000 Marks, a very great Sum in 
 thofe Days, to charitable Ufes. Brandon has lof!; 
 its Market, but ftands conveniently upon the Oufe, 
 over which it has a Bridge, and a F'erry, to convey 
 Goods to and from the Ifle of Ely, to v/hich we 
 direilly bent our Courfe. . 
 
 We made an Excurfion from Ely Northwards up 
 to the/>;;j ; but we faw nothing that Way worth 
 our Curiofity, or remarking, but deep Roads, vafb 
 Drains and Dykes of Water, which arc all navigable ; 
 but with all this, a very rich Soil, bearing a great 
 Quantity of Hemp, but a bad unwholfome Air. 
 
 IViJbich, however, which lies on the Northern 
 Extremity of the County, has not only been of 
 Note in the Conqueror's Time, who built a Caflle 
 here \ but is now a well-built Market-town, has a 
 good Tov/n-hall, and is efteemed the bcfl Trading- 
 town in the Ifle, as having the Convenience of good 
 
 Water- 
 
Norfolk. Great Britain. 77 
 
 Water-carriage to London, whither they fend great 
 Quantities of Oil and Butter, and bring back all 
 'forts of Commodities, with v/hich the whole Ifle is 
 furniftied ; for it has a plentiful Market. 
 
 A good way lower down, to the South, are the. 
 two Market-towns of Merjlo and Thorney ; the firft 
 is very inconfiderable, the other is delightfully fitu- 
 ated ; and the Land about it very fruitful in Grals 
 and Trees. 
 
 The Ip of Ely is encompafied with the Oufey 
 -and other Waters. The City is fituated on a Hill, 
 * in the Middle of a great Plain. It is full of Springs, 
 infomuch that in the principal Street, in the Eaft 
 Part of the Town, there are Wells bricked upKnce- 
 high almoft at every hundred Yards, which the 
 whole Year generally overflow from one to another., 
 all the way down the Declivity of the Hill on which 
 the Town ftands. The Soil is exceeding rich, and 
 the City is encompafied with Gardens, the Produce 
 of which is fo excellent, that it furniihes all^ the 
 County for 20 Miles round, even as far as Cajnbrldge, 
 and St. Ives ; the former of which has almoft all its 
 Garden-ftufF from hence. Great Quantities of 
 . Strawberries are cultivated here, particularly of the 
 white Wood fort. 
 
 The moft remarkable thing that I obferved of 
 the Minfter was, that it is feen for many Miles 
 round ; but is fo old, that it feems to- totter with 
 every high Guft of AVind. 
 
 On the Eaft-fide of the Cam, a little below 
 Ely, ftands Soharn, a little Market- town towards 
 the Borders of Suffolk, near the Marfiies, which 
 were formerly dangerous to pafsj but now there is a 
 Caufey made, which leads very fecurely over them. 
 Here are the Remains of an antient Church, which 
 was ruined by the Danes. 
 
 ^Ne proceeded from hence to Newtnarket. 'Near 
 Snaybell, as we went, we faw a noble Seat of Ad- 
 
 E 3 miral 
 
78: ^TOUR thro' Cambr. 
 
 m\rz\ Rupl^ created Earl of Qrford, for the glorious 
 Vi£lory cbtained under his Command over the French 
 Fleet, and the burning their Ships at La Hogue. 
 
 The Situation of this Houfe is low, and on the 
 Edge of the Fen Country ; but the Building is fifie, 
 the Apartments noble, and the Gardens well- 
 fin ifhed. On the Earl's Death it devolved to Samud 
 Sandys^ Efq; in Right of his Wife, one of the Earl's 
 Heirs, who now pofTefles it. 
 
 Arri\^ing at Nc-tumar-kct in the Month of Ostober, 
 I had the Oi-)portunity to fee the Horfe-races, and a 
 great Concourfe of the Nobility and Gentry, as well 
 from London, as from all Parts «>f England ; but they 
 were all fo intent, fo eager, fo bufy upon what is 
 called the fbarping Part of the Sport, of Wagers and 
 Bets, that to me they feemed rather like f© many 
 Horfe-courfers in Smithfeld^ than Perfons of Dig- 
 nity and Qi^iality, who defcend fo low as even to 
 circumvent one another ; and, if I may fpeak it, 
 pick one another'^ Pockets. To fee a Perfon of 
 Diuincflion who, perhaps, being ennobled, his Word 
 <^-f Plonour, hv the Eaws of the Land, is to be 
 efleemed and received with equal San£l:ion as an 
 Oxxh in our Courts ©f JufUce, level himfclf with a 
 C.Trooni, or a Riding-bov, and put his Credit and 
 Honour in his Hands with a Bribe^ to betray his 
 Mafter and his Truft, is a thing fcarce credible among 
 thofe who are really Men of Flonour ; and yet it is 
 too often the Cafe, to the indelible Shame of Men 
 of Rank and Qiiality be it fpokcn in particular, and 
 to the Reproach of the Nation in general ! How 
 different is this Condu6l from that of thofe In the 
 Circus at R.ome ? How much more different froni 
 thofe who gained fo much Honour in the Grecian 
 PvT-ces ? What Pindar couU be found in thefe Days 
 to celebrate them ? What mufl his Subje(£i: be. 
 Tricks and Circumventions ! Alas ! How dege- 
 nerate ! And yet thefe Races were i-nftituted witlV 
 
 a very 
 
Cambr. Great Britain. 7^ 
 
 a verv good Intent, to raife an Emulation In our 
 Nobility and Gentry, to keep up and prcferve a Race 
 of o-ood Horfes, in Honour of the Nation hi general ; 
 but as the Inftitution is debafed, it is not the belt 
 Horfethat winstheRace j but that- which. is deltinea 
 for it by a Combination, 
 
 Before I was let into the Secret, as tis called, 
 which is indeed nothing but the knavifli Part of the 
 Sport, I was much diverted- with thefe Races ; but 
 ■ when I was, I rejoiced not a little at the Regulation 
 that it has met with from the Power that only had 
 Authority to make it. For this Diverfion becoming 
 a publick Nuifance, by fpreading itfelt in little 
 Matches all over the Kingdom, the Legiflature took 
 Cognizance of it, and in the 1 3th of King George il. 
 a Law pafTed, which injoins as follows ; viz. 
 
 That none but the Owners^of Horfes fhall enter 
 
 them, and but one Horfe at a Time,- 
 That no Plate under 50 /. Value (hall be run for, 
 
 on Penalty of 200 /. and 100 /. to fuch^^as 
 
 {hall advertife, print, or publilh any Advertife- 
 mcnt of a Plate to be run for of Icfs Value 
 than 50/. 
 
 Five Years old Horfes to carry 10 Stone ; Six, 1 1 ; 
 Seven, 12 ; on the Forfeiture of the Horfe, 
 and 200 /. The Race to be begun and ended in 
 one Day. 
 
 Matches to be at Newmarket ; and Black- Ham- 
 bleton, Torkjhire^ only ; on Penalty of 200 /. 
 
 But Gifts left for annual Races not to be alter'cK 
 
 Sotnerfeijhire Penalties to go to Bath Hofpitai. 
 
 Entrance Money to be paid to the fecond-beffc 
 Horfe. 
 
 I, went in the Intervals of the Sport to fee^thefins 
 Seats of the Gentlemen in the neighbouring County ; 
 for. this Part, of Suffolk^ being an open champaiu- 
 Country, and in a healthy Air, is formed for Plea- 
 fure, and all kinds of rural Diveriion ; Nature, 
 E 4 as. 
 
8o 
 
 ^ T O U R thro 
 
 Cambr. 
 
 as It were, inviting the Gentlemen to vifit her, 
 where &e is plentifullv furniilied to receive them ; 
 and the Country is accordingly in 'a manner covered 
 with fine Palaces of the Nobifity, and pleafant Seats 
 of the Gentry. 
 
 Eiifion-hall^ the Seat of the Duke of Grafton^ 
 lies in the open Country towards the Side of Norfolk^ 
 not far from ThelfcrJ ; a Place capable of all that is 
 pleafant and delightful iii Nature, and greatly im- 
 proved by A rt. 
 
 From thence I went fo Rvjljhrook^ formerly the 
 Seat of the noble Family of Jemyns^ lately Lord 
 Dover^ and now of the Houfe of Davers. Then 
 we fiiw Brently^ the Seat of the Earl of Dyfcrt^ 
 and theantient Palace of my Lovd Cormvallis, with 
 feveral others moft agreeably fituated, and adorned 
 with the Beauties both of Art and Nature. 
 
 Newmarket is a liandfome well-built 7'own, and 
 teing a Thorougli-fare, reaps no fmall Advantage 
 by that means as v/ell as from the Races. It con- 
 iifts chiefly of one long Street, the North-fide of 
 which is in Suffolk^ and the SoutH in Cambridge/hire. 
 The King has a Houfe of his own, where he refides 
 when he thinks fit to come to the Races. The 
 Town has two Churches belonging to it, and a 
 Free-fchool endowed by King Charles II. 
 
 We entered Cambridge/hire out of Suffolk with all 
 the Advantage that can be imagined ; juft upon thofe 
 pleafant and agreeable Plains, called Newmarket- 
 Heath, Acrofs which extends a Fortification, or 
 Ditch, with a Rampart, commonly called The 
 Devil's Dyke, as Works of an extraordinary Nature 
 are generally, by theVulgar, attributed to that Prince 
 ofDarknefs thro' the Nation; but among the Gentry 
 it is beft known by theNamc of Rech Dyke, {romRech, 
 a fmall Market-to7/n lying near the Heath. It is fup- 
 pofed to have been the Boundary of the Kingdom of 
 
 the Eaji-J?iglcs. 
 
 Faffing 
 
Cambr. Gr eat Br i ta in. 8i 
 
 Pafling this Ditch, we fee from the Hills called 
 Gogmagog^ or rather Hogmagog^ a rich and pleafant 
 Vale Weftward, covered with Corn-fields, Gentle- 
 mens Seats, Villages ; and at a Diftance, to crown 
 all the reft, that antient and truly famous Tovm and 
 Univerfity of Cambridge^ Capital of the County. 
 
 Camhridgejhire^ except the Fen Country, is almoft 
 wholly a Corn Country ; and of that Corn five Parts, 
 in fix of all they fow, is Barley, which is generally 
 fold to Ware and Roy/Ion^ and other great Making- 
 towns m Hertfordflnre, and is the Fund from whence 
 that vaft Quantity of Malt, called Hcrtfordjhire 
 Malt, is made, which is efteemed the heft in Eng^ 
 land. As EJJex^ Suffolk and Norfolk^ are taken 
 up in Manufactures, and famed for Induftry, this 
 County has no Manufacture at all ; nor are the Poor, 
 except the Hufbandmen, noted for any thing fo 
 much as Idlenefs and Sloth, to their Scandal be it 
 fpoken ! What the Reafon of it is, I know not. 
 
 On the Top of Hog-magog Hills appears an antient 
 Camp, or Fortification, with a treble Rampart and 
 Ditch, which moft of our Writers fay was neither 
 Roman nor Saxon, but B?'itijh. King James II. 
 caufed a fpacious Stable to be built in the Area of this 
 Camp, for his Running-horfes, and made old Mr. 
 Frajnpton Mafter or InfpeCtor of them : The Stables 
 remain ftill there, tho' they are not often made ufe 
 of. The Earl Godolphin has here a fine Houfe on 
 the very Summit of the Hill, to which his Lordfliip 
 frequently reforts, efpecially in the Racing-feafon. 
 
 As we defcended Weftward, we faw the Fen 
 Country on our Right, almoft all covered with 
 Water like a Sea, The Michaelmas Rains, having 
 been very great that Year, fent down vaft Floods of 
 ^Vater from the Upland Countries; and thofe Fens 
 beiiig the Sink of no Itfs than 13 Counties, they are 
 often thus overflowed. The Rivers which thus 
 empty themfelvcs into thefe Fens, and carry off" the 
 E 5 Water, 
 
82 ^ T O U H thro Cambr. 
 
 Water, are the Ccnn or Grants the Great Oufe, and 
 Little Oufe, the Nerie^ the JVelland^ and the River 
 which runs from Bury to Milden-hall. The Counties 
 which thefe Rivers drain, as above, are thofe of 
 
 Lincoln^ Warwick^ Rutland^ 
 
 * Ccnvihridge^ Oxford^ Norfolk^ 
 
 * Huntingdon^ Leicejlsr\ Suffolk^ and 
 
 * Bedford^ * Northampton, Ejfrx. 
 
 'Thofe mark' d with ) empty all their Pf aters this 
 JPay^ the reft hut in Part. 
 
 In a Word, all the W ater of the Middle Part of 
 England^ which docs not run into the Thames or 
 the Trent ^ conies down into thefe Fens. 
 
 In tliefe Fens are abundance of thofe admirable 
 Pieces of Art call'd Duckoys^ and it is incredible what 
 Q^iantities of Wild-fowl of all forts, Duck, Mal- 
 lard, Teal, Vv^'igeon, lj?c\ they fake in them every 
 Week during th.e Seafon : It may indeed be guefTed 
 at in fome mcafure by this, that there is a Duckoy 
 not far from Ely^ which yielcls the Landlord 500 /. 
 a Year clear of the Charge of maintaining a great 
 Number of Servants for the Management ; fronv 
 v/hence alone they allured me at Bt. Ives, (a Town 
 on the Oufe, whither the Fowls are always brought 
 to be conveyed to Lcndon ) that they generally fent 
 up ;:^ooo Couples a Week. 
 
 There are more of thefe about Peterborough, from^ 
 whence Waggon Loads are fent up twice a Week fo^ 
 London. I have fecn thefe Waggons, before the A£l 
 of Parliament to regulate Carriers, drawn by ten or 
 twelve Horfcs apiece, they were loaden fo heavy. 
 
 As thele Fens appear overwhelm'd with Water, 
 .1 obfervcd that they generally at' this latter Part of 
 the Year appear alfo covered with Fogs ; fo that, 
 when the Downs and higher Grounds of the adja- 
 ."ent Country gli'lcrcd Nvitli the Beams of the Sun, 
 
 the 
 
Cambr. Great Britain. 8? 
 
 the Ue of Ely feemed wrapped up in Mift and 
 Darkneis, that nothing could be difcerned but. 
 now and then the Cupola of Ely Mairter. 
 
 One could hardly iee this from the Pldls, without 
 Concern for the many thoufand Families conlined to 
 thofe Fogs, who had no other Breath to draw, than 
 what muft be mixed with the choaking Vapours, 
 which fpread over all the Country : but notwith- 
 flandino- this, the People, efpccially thofe that are 
 ufed to^it, live as healthy as thofe in a clearer Air, 
 except now-and-thenan Ague, which they make light 
 of; and there are great Numbers ot veryantient- 
 People among thera. An Ad palled a_ few_^ ear?< 
 ao-o for the effectual Draining and Preiervation of 
 liaddenham Level in the Ijle of Ely, which conmins 
 6500 Acres, which were overflowed chiefly thro 
 tiie Nesjlea of prefervins aud clearing the Out- fells 
 into the Sea; and as;thefc Grounds are naturally 
 very rich and fertile, it may be • imagined what a 
 Benefit muft accrue to the Pubiick by this means, 
 when the Draining and Recovery of them can bo 
 
 completed.. . . 
 
 Having been at Snirhridge-falr^when -it was m its 
 TIeisht in-: the Month of September, the-Year before 
 I twos at Newmarket, I muft fay, that it is not-only 
 the greateft in the whole Nation, but- I- think nv 
 Europe; nor is the Fair at ■ in Saxony, the 
 Mart at Frankfort on. t\^c- Main, or the tairs £t 
 Nuremberg, - or Jujburg, reputed any way com- 
 parable to this a.t Sturbridge *. 
 
 It is kept in a large Corn-field, near Cajhrtoa, 
 extending from the Side of the River Ca?n, towards 
 the Road, for about half a Mile fquare. 
 
 If the Field be not cleared of the Corn befcre a 
 certain Day mAuguJl, the Fair-keepers may trample 
 it under-foot, to build their Booths or Tents. On 
 
 * This Fair is pretty much dwindled fuice this Acccual of k ; iho' 
 jl ii ftill very conliJerable; 
 
 E 6- iH^- 
 
84 ^ T O U R thro Canibr. 
 
 the other hand, to b.ilance that Severity, if the Fair- 
 keepers have not cleared the FitlJ by another certain 
 .Day in September^ the Plow^men may re-enter with 
 Plow and Cart, and overthrow all into the Dirt ; 
 and as for the Filth, Dung, Straw, tffr. left behind 
 b^^ the Fair- keepers, v/liich is very confiderable, thefe 
 become the Farmers Fees, and make them full 
 Amends for the trampling, riding, carting upon, 
 and hardening the Ground. 
 
 It is impoffible to defer i be all the Parts and Cir- 
 cumftances of this Fair exa£lly ; the Shops are placed 
 in Rows like Streets, whereof c-ne is called Cheap- 
 fide; and here, as in feveral other Streets, are all 
 Sorts of Traders, who fell by Retale, and come 
 chiefly from London. Here may be feen Goldfmiths, 
 Toymen, Brafiers, Turners, Milaners, Haberdafhers, 
 Hatters, Mercers, Drapers, Pewterers, China-ware- 
 houfes, and, in a Word, all Trades that can be 
 found in London ; with Coftee-houfes, Taverns, 
 and Eating-houfes in great Nuir.bers and all kept in 
 Tents and Booths. 
 
 This great Street reaches from the Road, which, 
 as I faid, goes from Cambridge to Newmarket^ turn- 
 ing fhort out of it to the Right towards the River, 
 and holds in a Line near half a Mile quite down to 
 the River-fide. In another Street parallel with the 
 Road are the like Rows of Booths, but fomewhat 
 larger, and more intermingled with Wholefale 
 Dealers ; and one Side, paffing out of this laft 
 Street to the Left-hand, is a great Square, formed of 
 the largeft Booths, called the Duddery ; but whence 
 fo called, I could not learn. The Area of this 
 Square is from 80 to 100 Yards, where the Dealers 
 have room before every Booth to take down and 
 open their Packs, and to bring in Waggons to load 
 and unload. 
 
 This Place being peculiar to the Wholefale 
 Dealers in the Woollen Maiiufa<5lure, the Booths, 
 
 or 
 
Cambr. Great Britain. 85 
 
 or Tents are of a vaft Extent, have different Apart- 
 ments, and the Quantities of Goods they brn.g are 
 fo great, that the Infides of them look like fo many 
 Blackwell-halh, and are vaft Warehoufes piled up 
 with Goods to the Top. In this Duddery, as I have 
 been informed, have been fold 100,000 Pounds- worth 
 of Woollen Manufaftures in lefs than a Week s time ; 
 befides the prodigious Trade earned on here by 
 Wholefale-men {xomLondon, and all Parts of Eng- 
 land, who tranfaa their Bufinefs wholly in their 
 Pocket-books, and meeting their Chapmen from all 
 Parts, make up their Accounts, receive Money 
 chiefly in Bills, and takfe Orders. Thefe, they 
 fay, exceed by far the Sales of Goods a^ually brought 
 to the Fair, and delivered in Kind ; it being freqv.ent 
 for the London Wholefale-men to carry back Orders 
 from their Dealers, for 10,000 Pounds- worth of 
 Goods a Man, and fome much more. 1 his 
 efpecially refpefts thofe People, who deal in heavy 
 Goods, as Wholefale Grocers, baiters, Brahers, 
 Iron-merchants, Wine-merchants, and the like ; 
 but does not exclude the Dealers in Woollen Manu- 
 faaures, and efpecially in Mercery Goods _ of all 
 forts, who generally manage their Bufinefs in this 
 
 manner. ^ r j irr i 
 
 Here are Clothiers from Halifax, Leeds, Wake- 
 field and Huthcrsfield in Torkjhire, and from Roch- 
 dale, Bury, &c. m LancaJlAre, with vaft Quantities 
 of Yorkjhire Cloths, Kerfeys, Penniftons, Cottons, 
 ^r. with all forts of Mancheftet^^^^^, Fuftians, 
 and Things made of Cotton Wooll; of which the 
 Quantity Is fo great, that they told me there were 
 n^ar 1000 Horfe-packs of fuch Goods from that 
 Side of the Country, and thefe took up a bide and 
 Half of the Duddery at leaft ; alfo a Part of a Street 
 of Booths were taken up with Upholfters Ware ; 
 fuch as Tickens, Sackens, Kiddermmjier btufts. 
 Blankets, Rugs, Quilts, i^c. 
 
8(5 ^ T O U R thro' Cambr. 
 
 In the Duddcry I faw one Warchoufe, or Booth 
 confifling offix Apartments all belon-inji to a Dealt? 
 m Norwich StufFs oiilv, who, tlieyYaid, had there 
 above 20,000 /. Value in thofc Goods. 
 
 VVeftern Goods had their Share here alfo, and fe- 
 veral Booths were filled with Serges, Duroys, Drucr- 
 gets, Shalloons, Cantabons, Devonfnire Kerfies, 
 i\om Exeter, Taunton, Br'iflol, and other Parts vVeft' 
 and Ibmc from London alfo, ' 
 But all this is ftill out-done, at Icaft in Appear- 
 ance,^ by two Articles, which are the Peculiars"of 
 this Fair, and arc not exhibited till the other Part 
 of the Fair, for the Woollen Mannfaaure, be^nns to 
 clofe up: Thefc are thcWooLL, and the Hops 
 1 here- is fcarce any Price fixed for Hops in England 
 trir they know how they fell at Sliirhrld'fe-fair ; the 
 Qiiantity that appears in the Fair is indued prodia'iocs 
 and they take up a large Part of the Field, on which 
 the fair is kept, to thcmfelves ; they are brought 
 direaiy from Chelmsford in Epx, from Canterkiry 
 a-nd Maidjlone m Kent, and from Farnhcnn in Surrey ; 
 befides whatare brought from London, of the Growtl'i 
 of thofe and other. Places. 
 
 Inquiring why this Fair fhould be thus, of all other 
 Places HI England, the Centre of that Trade and 
 fo great a Qi.antity of fo bulky a Commodity be 
 earned thither fo far ; I was informed bv one 
 thoroughly acquainted with that Matter, 'l>.at- 
 Hops, for this Part of England, grow principalis 
 m the two Counties of Surrey and Kent, with an 
 Exception only to the Town of Chelmsford m- Efjex 
 and there are very few planted any- where elfe. ' 
 
 There are indeed in the Weft of E?/gland fomc- 
 Hops growing; as at Wlltan, near SaUJhury ; ?t 
 Hereford and Broonfgrove, near IPales, and the- 
 like ; but the Qiiantity is inconfideKabJe, and the 
 Places fo remote, that none of them come to 
 London. 
 
 Formci-I^ 
 
Cambr. Great Bxtitain. 8/ 
 
 rly in the North of England, few Hops 
 were ufed, their Drink benig chiefly pale fmooth 
 Ale, which required but little Hops ; and confe- 
 quently they planted none North of Trent. But as 
 for fome Years paft, they not only brew great 
 Quantities of Beer in the North, but alfo ufe Hops 
 in the Brewing their Ale much more than they did 
 before, fo they all come South of Trent to buy their 
 Hops ; and here being vaft Quantities brought, 'tis 
 great Part of their back Carriage into Torkjlnre, 
 and Northarrvptonjh'ire, Derhyjhire, Lanca/hlre, and 
 all thofe Counties ; nay, of late, fmCe the Union, 
 even fo far as Scotland ; for I muft not omit here 
 alfo to mention, that the River Grant, or Cam^ 
 which runs clofe by the North-weft Side of the Fair, 
 in its Courfe from Cambridge to Ely, is navigable ; 
 and' that by this means, all heavy Goods are brought 
 to the Fair-field, by Water-carriage from London, 
 and other Parts ; firft to the Port of Lynn, and then 
 in Barges up the Oufe, from the Onfe into the Cam, 
 and fo to the very Edge of the Fair. 
 
 In like manner great Quantities of heavy Goods, 
 and Hops among the reft, are fent from the Fair to 
 Lynn by Water, and fliipped there for the Humber, 
 to Hull, York, &c. and for Newcajlle upon Tyne, and 
 by Newcaftle, to Scotland. Now, as they do not 
 yet plant "Hops in the North, tho' the Confumption 
 there is great and increafmg daily, this is one Reafon 
 why at Sturbridge-fair there is fo great a Demand 
 for them : befides, there were very few Hops, if any 
 worth naming, growing in all the Counties even on 
 thij fide Trent, above 40 Miles from London, thofe 
 Counties depending on Sturbridge-fair for their 
 Supply ;-fo the Counties of Suffolk, Norfolk., Cam- 
 bridge, Huntingdon, Northampton, Lincoln, Leicejhr, 
 Rutland, and even to Stafford, JVariuick and IVor- 
 cefterjhire, bought moft of, if not all, their Hops at 
 Sturbridge-fair, 
 
 This 
 
88 ^ T O U R thro Cambr. 
 
 This is a Teftimony of the prodigious Refer t of 
 the trading People of aJl Parts of England to tliis 
 Pair; where furprifing Q^iantities of Hops formerlv 
 have been fold. 
 
 The Article of Wooll is of feveral Sorts - but 
 principally Fleece Wooll, oxxt o\' LincolnJJjire, where 
 the longeft Staple is found, the Sheep of thofe Parts 
 being of the largeft Breed. 
 
 The Bu)-ers are chiefly the Manufadurers Nor- 
 folk, Suffolk, and Ejjex, and it is a prodigious Q'.ian- 
 tity they buy. ^ 
 
 Flere 1 faw what I have not obferved in any o^her 
 County of England, a Pocket of Wooll, which 
 feems to have been at firft called fo in Mockery this 
 Pocket being fo big, that it loads a whole Waggon 
 and reaches beyond the moft extreme Parts of it' 
 hanging over both before and behind ; and thefe 
 ordinarily weigh a Ton or 2500 ft. Weight of Wooll 
 all in one Bag. ' 
 
 The Qimitity of Wooll only, which has been 
 fold at this Place at one Fair, has been faid to amount 
 to 50 or 6o,coo /. in Value ; fome fay, a great deal 
 more. 
 
 By thefe Articles a Stranger may make fomeGuefs 
 at the immenfe Trade which is carried on at this 
 Place ; what prodigious Quantities of Goods are 
 bought and fold, and what a vaft Concourfe of Peo- 
 ple are feen here from all Parts of England. 
 
 I might proceed to fpeak of feveral other Sorts of 
 E77glijh Manufaaures, which are brought hither to 
 be fold ; as all Sorts of wrought Iron, and Brar9 
 Ware from Birmingham ; ed^ed Tools Knives 
 hom Sheffield, Glafs Wares, and Stockens, 'from 
 Nottingham and Leicejler ; and unaccountable 
 Qiiantities of other Things of fmaller Value every 
 Morning. 
 
 To attend this Fair, and the prodigious Crouds of 
 People which refort to it, tkre are feme times no 
 
Cambr. GreatBritain. 8p 
 
 lefs than 50 Hackney Coaches, which come from 
 London^ and ply Night and Mc-rning to carry the 
 People to and from Cambridge ; for there the Grcfs 
 of them lodge ; nay, wliich is ftill more ftrange, 
 there are Wherries brought from London on Wag- 
 gons, to ply upon the little River Cam, and to row 
 People up and down, from the Town, and from the 
 Fair, as Occafion prefents. 
 
 It is not to be wondered at, if the Town of 
 Caffibridge cannot receive or entertain the Numbers 
 of People that come to this Fair ; for not Cambridge 
 only, but all the Towns round are full ; nay, tfi* 
 very Barns and Stables are turned into Inns, to 
 lodge the meaner Sort of People : As for the Fair 
 People, they all eat, drink, and fleep^in their Booths, 
 which are fo intermingled with Taverns, Cofiee- 
 houfes, Drinking-houfes, Eating^houfes, Cooks 
 Shops, &c. and fo many Butchers and Higglers 
 from all the neighbouring Counties come in every 
 Morning with Beef, Mutton, Fov^ls, Butter, 
 Bread, Cheefe, Eggs, and fuch Things, and go 
 ■with them from Tent to Tent, from Door to Door, 
 that there's no Want of Provifions of any Kind, 
 either drefled, or undreffed. 
 
 In a Word, the Fair is like a well-governed City, 
 and there is the leaft Diforder and Confufion (I be- 
 lieve) that can be feen any-where, with fo great a 
 Concourfe of People. 
 
 Towards the latter End of the Fair, and when 
 the great Hurry of Wholefale Buhnefs begins to be 
 over, the Gentry come in, from all Parts of the 
 County round ; and tbo' they come for their Diver- 
 fion, yet 'tis not a little Money they lay out, which 
 generally falls to the Share of the Retalers ; fuch 
 as the Toy-fhops, Goldfmiths, Brafiers, Ironmongers, 
 Turners, Milaners, Mercers, ^c. and fome loofe 
 Corns they referve for the Puppet-fhews, Drolls, 
 Rope-dancers, and fuch-like ; of which there is no 
 
 Want, 
 
po ^ T O U R tLro' Cambr. 
 
 Want. The laft Day of the Fair is the Horje-j^ctir^ 
 where the Wliolc is clofed both with Horfe and Foot- 
 races, to divert the meaner Sort of People only; for 
 nothing confiderable is offered of that Kind, and the 
 late A£t, I prefumc, muft have put an End to the 
 former. Thus ends the u'hole Fair, and in lefs thaiv 
 a Week more, fcarce any Sign is left,-, that fuch a 
 thing has been there, except by the Heaps of Dung 
 and Straw, and other Pvubbifti which is left behind, 
 trod into the Earth, and is as good as a Summer's 
 Fallow for the Land ; and as I have faid above, pays 
 the Hufbandman well for the Ufc of it. 
 
 I fiiould have mentioned, that here is a Court of 
 Juftice always open, and held every Day in a Shed 
 built on purpofe in the Fair : this is for keeping 
 the Peace, and deciding Controverfies in Matters 
 arifingfrom the Bufmefs of the Fair. The Magi- 
 ftrates of the Town of Carnbridge are Judges in this 
 Court, as being in their Jurifdi(Slion, or they holding 
 k by fpecial Privilege. Here they determine Mat- 
 ters in a fummary way, as is praflifed in thofe we 
 call Pye-Poivder Courts in other Places, or as a Court 
 sf Confcience \ and they have a final Authority with- 
 out Appeal. 
 
 Having juft mentioned the Puppet fhews. Drolls, 
 ^'c. with which the People are entertained during 
 the Time of this Fair, I cannot but relate a deplorable 
 Accident that happened on thi:>-Occarion^ at.^ffr-Vr 
 ^y^:// in this. Neighbourhood, as follows. 
 
 On the 8th of September^ 1727. about. Eight at 
 Night, a Puppet-fliew being to be a£led in a Barn 
 built of Barnwc W^itonc^ and thatched with Straw, 
 a Fellow attempted to thruft himfelf in without pay- 
 ing ; but being refufed, and the Door locked, and^ 
 fome report, nailed, to keep out Intruders, the 
 Villain threatened he would fet tlie Barn on Fire over 
 their Heads, in Revenge. There was a Place ad- 
 Joining to the Barn, where were Hay and Straw ; and 
 
 a Boy 
 
Gimbr. Great Britain. 91 
 
 a Boy fetting down a wooden Lantern with a fliort 
 Candle in it at a little Diftance, whilft he was look- 
 ing thro' a Hole at the Sight, the villainous Fellow 
 aforefaid beat the Lantern about, till the Fire took 
 the Straw, which he left burning, and run away. 
 There was a Floor above them, and the Flame, 
 getting into the falfe Roof, fpread like Wildfire. 
 The People, intheutmoft Confternation, all makjng 
 to the Door, which opened inwards, fell upon one 
 another, and became, as it were, fo many Barri- 
 cadoes to hinder its being opened : and juft at this 
 fatal Crifis, the Fire having feized fome, and dread- 
 ful Shrieks and Cries refounding from all, the Floor 
 fell in, and fmothercd almoft all ; for not above five- 
 ■ or fix efcaped of the Whole, and about 120 Men, , 
 I Women, and Children, miferably periflied. The 
 next Day it was one of the moft fliccking Sights 
 that ever was beheld, to fee the Relations of the- 
 unhappy Perfons flocking thither, to find and own- 
 the Bodies, fome of their Brothers, fome of theif- 
 Children, fome of their Wives and Hufbands, which 
 they found Difficulty enough to difcover ; for fome- 
 of them had their Heads burnt off, fome their Lcgs^ 
 fome their Hands and Arms, and others, in a man- 
 ner, confumed to Aflies. And at laft, moft of the 
 maneled Bodies were carried in Carts, and put pro- 
 mifcuoufly into a large Hole dug in the Church-yard- 
 for that Purpofe. Among the unfortunate Sufferers- 
 ' were feveral young Gentlewomen of confiderable- 
 i Fortunes. About^four Years after this, another 
 terrible Fire happened, which almoft confumed the 
 whole Town of Barnwell. 
 
 Within thefe few Years, a fine Road, of about 
 four Miles in Length, is completed, from the Town 
 of Catnbridge to Hognwgog-hills ; which, by reafon 
 of the Badnefs of the Way in that Place, is an ex- 
 ceeding ufeful Benefaaion to the Town ; which 
 generous Work was done in purfuance of the Will 
 
 of 
 
5)2 ^ T O U R thrd . Cambr. 
 
 of WilUam Wortes, Efq; of Cambridge, as I think 
 they told me tlie Gentleman's Name was. 
 
 The Two Univerfities cf Cmnbnd?e and Oxford 
 are fo much the Glory of this Nation" that it would 
 be an almoft unpardonable Defedl in me, not to take 
 particular Notic" of them. I fliall refer that of Ox- 
 ford to its proper Places and here give as brief an 
 Account as I can of this of Camhrtds^e^ and of the 
 Originals and Founders of the feveral Colleges, to- 
 gether with the Favours and Advantages that have 
 been within thcfe few Years conferred upon it by his 
 late Ml j^fty, and other Benefaaors. 
 
 The Town is governed by a A/laj'or and Alder- 
 men ; but with regard to tl}e Government of the 
 Univerfity, that has a Chancellor^ eligible every three 
 Years, aut ?nanerc in eodcm Officio dura^ite tacito 
 conjenfu Benatus Cantabr. He hath under him a 
 Commlffary, who holds a Court of Record of Civil 
 Caufes for all privileged Perfons and Scholars, under 
 the Degree of Mafter of Arts. 
 
 They have a!fo a High Steivard, chofen by the 
 Senate, and holding by Patent from tlie Univerfitv. 
 
 The Vice-Chancellor is annually chofen on the 4th 
 
 November, by the Body of the Univerfity, out of 
 Two Perfons nominated by the Heads of Colleges. 
 
 Two ProSiors are alfo annually chofen, as* at 
 Oxford \ as alfo are Two Taxers, who, with the 
 Proarors, have Cognizance of Weights and Meafures, 
 as Clerks of the Market. 
 
 The Univerfity has alfo a Cujlos Archivorum., or 
 Regifier ; Three Efquire Beadles, One Teaman Bea- 
 dle, and a Library- keeper. 
 
 The Vice-chancellor fometimes vifits the Taverns 
 ajid other Publick-houfes in his own Perfon : but 
 the Prodlors do it very frequently, and have Power 
 to punifii offending Scholars, and to fine the Publick- 
 houfes who entertain them after Eight at Night in 
 the Winterj or Nine in Summer. 
 
 A5 
 
Cambr. G r e a t B r i t a i n. 5)3 
 
 As to the Antiqinty of the Univerfity of Cam- 
 hr'idge ; the Scbry goes, Thvit Cantaber^ di Spaniaj-d^ 
 270 Years before Chrift, firft founded it ; and that 
 Sebcrt^ King of the Eajl- Angles^ reflored it, Anno 
 Chrifti 630. Afterwards, as tlie learned Camden 
 obferves, it lay a long time, negle6fed, and was 
 overthrown by the Dan'ifo Storms, till all Things 
 revived under the i*^r;«(7;2 Government. Soon after 
 Inns, Hoflels, and Flails were built for Students, 
 tho' without Endowments, There are now i6 Col- 
 leges and Halls, which differ only in Name, being 
 equally endov/ed and privileged ; i6 Mafters, 406 
 P^ellowfnips ; about 662 Sciiolarfliips, 236 Exhi- 
 bitions j and the whole Number of Mafters, Fellows, 
 Scholars, Exhibitioners, and other Students, are 
 about 1500. 
 
 I {hall now give a brief Account of the Colleges, 
 and begin with 
 
 1. Peter-FIouse. 
 
 Which was founded by Hugh Baljham^ Bifhop of 
 Ely^ Anno 1257, when only Prior of Ely. But at 
 firff the Scholars had no other Conveniences than 
 Chambers, which exempted them from the high 
 Rates impofed on them by the Townfmen for 
 Lodgings. The Endowment was fettled by tlie 
 fame v/hen Bilhop, Anno 1284, for a Mafter, 
 
 14 Fellows, WhichNumber might be increafed 
 or diminiihed according to tiie Improvement or Di- 
 minution of their Revenues. It feems to have taken 
 'its Name from the Church of St. Petcr^ in its 
 Neighbourhood. 
 
 2. Clare-Hall 
 
 Was founded in the Year 1340, hy Richard Ea- 
 detv^ Chancellor of the Univerfity, with the Affift- 
 ance of the Lady Eli%aheth Clare., Countefs of L7- 
 Jler, Fie had before built a Houfe called Vnivcrfity- 
 ball., wherein the Scholars lived upon their own 
 Expence for 16 Years, till it was accidentally de- 
 
 ftroyed 
 
9+ ^ T O U R thro' Cambr, 
 
 flroyed by Fire. The Founder, finding the Charge 
 of Rebuilding would exceed his Abilities, had the 
 kind AfTiftance of the faid Lady, thro' whofe Libc 
 rality it was not only rebuilt, but endov/ed. It has 
 been lately new-built, all of Free-ftone, and is one of 
 the neateft and moft uniform Houfes in the Uni- 
 verfity, and delightfully fituated on the Banks (^f 
 the River, which forms for it a Kind of natural 
 Canal. 
 
 3. PeMBROKE-FI ALL 
 
 Was founded in the Year 1347, by the Ladv 
 ^MarySt. Paul^ Countefs of Pembroke^ third Wife to 
 Audomare de Valcntia^ Y.^xXo'i P embrokc \ who having 
 been unhappily flain at a "Filting on his Wedding 
 day, (he intirely fequeftered herfelf from all worldly' 
 Delights, and, amongft other pious A6ls, built this 
 College, which has been much augmented fince by 
 the Benefactions of others. 
 
 4. St. B e n n e t's, or C 0 r p u s-C h r I s t I 
 College, 
 
 Was founded by the Society of Friers in Corpus- 
 Chr'ijli^ in the Year 1346. This arofe out of Two 
 Cjuilds or Fraternities, one of Corpus Chrljii^ and 
 the other of the Bkjfed Virgin, which after a long 
 Emulation, being united into one Body, by a joint 
 Intereft built this College, which took its Name from 
 the adjoining Church of St. Benedict. Their greateft 
 modern Beneiador was Dr. Matthew Parker., once 
 Mafter of the College, and afterwards Archbiihop 
 of Canterbury, who by his prudent Management 
 recovered feveral Rights of the College ; and, befides 
 Two Fellowfl:iips, and Five Scholarftiips, gave a great 
 Number of excellent MSS. to their Library, which 
 were moilly collefled owt of the Remains of the old 
 Abbey-Libraries, Colleges, and Cathedrals, and 
 chiefly relate to the Hilloryof England. 
 
 5. Tri 
 
Cambr. GreatBritain. 95 
 
 5. Trinity-Hall 
 Was founded about the Year 1353, bv WilUain 
 Bateman^ Bifhop of Norwich. It was built upon a 
 Place which once belonged to the Monks of Ely.^ 
 and was a Houfe for Students before the Time of 
 Eifhop Bate?nan^ who by Exchange for the Advow- 
 fons of certain Re6lories, got it into his own Pof- 
 fefiion. Pie was a great Mafter of Civil and Canon 
 Law ; whereupon the Mafter, two Fellows, and 
 three Scholars, (the Number appointed by him at the 
 firft Foundation) were obliged to follow thofe two 
 Studies. It has been fince much augmented by 
 BenefaiSlors, and the Number of its Members is pro- 
 portionably increafed. 
 
 6. Gone viL and Caius College. 
 Anno 1348) Echnund Goneml founded a HaM, 
 called after his Name, upon the Place where now 
 are the Orchard and 'Fennis-court of Bennet-college. 
 But within Five Years after it was removed into the 
 Place where it nov/ ftands, by Bifhop Bate?nan^ 
 Founder of Trinity-hall. Anno 1607, yohn Caius., 
 Doctor of Phyfic, improved this Hall into a new 
 College, fince chiefly called by his Name ; and it has 
 of late Years received confiderablc Embellilhments, 
 
 y. King's College 
 Was founded in the Yean 45 1 ,bv King Henry VI, 
 It was at lirft but fmall, being built by that Prince 
 for a Reftor and 12 Scholars only. Near it was a 
 little Hoftcl for C/rammarians, built by William 
 Bingham., which wa? granted by the Founder to King 
 Henry ^ for the Inlargement of his College. Where- 
 upon he united thefe two, and having inlarged them 
 by adding the Church of St. 'John Yjachary^ founded 
 a College for a Provoft, yo Fellows and Scholars, 
 tliree Chaplains, The Chapel belonging to 
 
 this College is dcfcrvedly reckoned one of the fineft 
 Buildings of its Kind in the World, It is 304 Feet 
 
5>6 ^ T O U R thrd Cambr. 
 
 long, 73 broad, and 91 high to the Battlements, and 
 has not one Filiar in it. It has 12 large Windows 
 on each Side, finely painted, and the Carving, and 
 other Workmanfliip of the numerous Stalls, fur- 
 paffes any thing of the Kind. It conftitutes one 
 S:t!e of a large Square ; for the Royal Founder de- 
 ligned, that the College fliould be a Qiiadrangle, all 
 of equal Beauty : but the Civil Wars in v/hich he 
 was involved v/ith the Houfe of Tork^ prevented his 
 arcomplifting it ; and the Profecution of his good 
 Defign was referred to our own Time ; for what 
 has been added within thefe few Years paft, is not 
 only an Ornament to the College, but to the whole 
 Univerfity : and it is to be hoped, that the College 
 will be enabled, in Time, to finifh the noble Work. 
 This new Part runs from the "Weft-end of the 
 Chapel, a little detached from it to the Southv/ard, 
 and makes another Side of the Square, ^nd contains 
 fpacious Chambers and Apartments, being 236 Feet 
 in Length, and 46 in Breadth, built with great 
 Regularity, and modern Beauty. 
 
 Fehr, 1734, the Workmen digging for the Foun- 
 dation of the new Buildings of this College, found 
 a great Number of Broad Pieces of Gold, of the 
 Coin of King Henry V. exceeding fair. As foon as 
 it was known, the Governors of the College got 
 out of the Wcrkmens Hands a confiderable Number, 
 which they made Prefents of to their particular 
 Benefa£tors, and divided among thcmfelves, and the 
 Fellows of the College ; but it is fuppofed, that the 
 Workmen fecreted many; for this Coin was very 
 fcarce before, but after this v/as much eafier to be 
 met with. 
 
 8. Queen's College 
 Was founded by Queen Afcirga ret of Jnjou^ Wife 
 of King Henry VI. in the Year 1448 ; but the trou- 
 blefome Times that followed, would not give her 
 leav{E to complete the Fabrlck. The fiiil Mafter 
 
 of 
 
Cambr, G r e at B r i t a i n. 97 
 
 of it, Andrew Ducket, procured great Sums of Mo- 
 ney from well-difpofed Perfons, towards finifhing of 
 this Work, and fo far prevailed with Queen Eliza-- 
 beth. Wife of King Edward IV. that (he perfected 
 what her profeffed Enemy had begun. The Reve- 
 rend Mr. Ferdinando Smithes, Senior Fellow of 
 ^een's College, who died in November 1725. gave 
 1500 /. to the fame, to be appropriated to the Ufe of 
 three Batchelors of Art, till the Time of their taking 
 their Mafters Degree, 
 
 9. Catharine-Hall 
 
 Was founded in the Year 1459 ^7 ^^^^^'f TVood- 
 lark, third Provoft of King's College, and the Hall 
 was built over-againft the Carmelites Houfe,_ for one 
 Mafter and three Fellows ; and the Numbers have 
 been fmce greatly increafed, as well as the Revenues. 
 A great Part of it is lately new-built, and may be 
 faid to be a b.eautiful and regular Fabrick. 
 
 10. Jesus College 
 
 Was founded Jnno 1497 by y 5/^72 Alcocke, Bifliop 
 of Ely, out of an old Nunnery dedicated to St. Rade- 
 gimd, given him by King Henry VH. and Pope 
 Julius 11. on account of the fcandalous Incontinence 
 of the Nuns, in order to be by him converted to this? 
 Ufe. And this Prelate eftabliihed in it, a Mailer, 
 JSix Fellows, and Six Scholars. But their Numbers 
 have been much increafed by great Benefactions. 
 IT. Christ's College 
 
 Was founded by the Lady Margaret Countefs of 
 Richmond, Mother to King Henry VII. Anno 1506, 
 ypon the Place where God.''s Houfe formerly ftood. 
 She fettled there a Mafter and 12 Fellows, lufc. which 
 Number in King Edward VPs Time being com- 
 plained of as favouring of Superftition, by alluding 
 to our Saviour and his 12 Difciples, that Prince added 
 a 13th Fellowfliip, with fome new Scholarfhips, 
 This College has been within thefe few Years paft 
 c.dorned with a very fine new Building. 
 
 Vol. L iC ^ ^ 12. St, 
 
c)8 T O U R thro" Cambr. 
 
 12. St. John's College 
 
 Was founded about the Year 1506 by the fame 
 Lady, upon the Place where. Anno wi^a^^ Nigel ox 
 Ncal fecond Bifhop of El^ founded an Hofpital for 
 Canons Regular ; which by Hugh de Baljham was 
 converted into a Priory dedicated to St. "John^ and 
 by the Executors of the faid Countefs of Richmond^ 
 into a College, under the Name of the fame Saint. 
 For fhc died before it waft finifhed, which retarded 
 the Work for fome Time ; but it was afterwards 
 carried on by her faid Executors : And in the Begin- 
 ning oflhe Reign of King James I. was greatly 
 inlarged with fair new Buildings. This College, 
 pleafantly fituated by the River, is no Icfs remarkable 
 for its Number of Students, and its beautiful Groves 
 and Gardens, than for its ftridl and regular Difcipline. 
 It h.as a noble Library, which has been of late Years 
 greatly augmented, by the Acceffion of the Library 
 of Dr. Gunnings late Bifhop of Ely., who bequeathed 
 the fame to it. 
 
 13. Magdalen College 
 
 Was founded Anno 1542 by' Thomas Audley^ 
 Ivord Chancellor of England^ and was afterwards 
 inJ-^rsed and endowed by Sir Chrijlopher TVrey^ Lord 
 Chief Juilice of England. This College ftands by 
 itf-lf on the Nprth-wcft Side of the River, and hath 
 been of late Ye.irs improved and adorned by a 
 handfome Piece of Building. A Fellowfhip of 
 a confiderable Value has been lately founded at 
 this College, which is appropriated to Gentlemen 
 ijf the County of Norfolk, and called Tie Travelling 
 Norfolk Fello-vjlip. 
 
 To the Library of this College was left a valuable 
 
 Collection of Pamphlets, by Pepys, Efqj as 
 
 gifo great Numbers of Papers relating to the Navy 
 tind Admiraltv. The Benefactor bequeathed the 
 P.uties as well as the Books and Papers, and they 
 ufc k-eps: in tl^v mi^nner he lei't ih^m? 
 
Cambr. GreatBritain. 
 
 14. Trinity College. 
 
 ' 'Was founded Anno 1546 by King Henry VITI. 
 out of three others : St. Michael's College built by 
 Hervie of Stanton., in the Time of Edward II. 
 King' s-hall, founded by ^V-ic^rir/ III. znd Fifowick' s 
 Hojiel. Its worthy Mafter, 'T. Nevil^ Dean of Can- 
 terbury^ repaired or rather new-built this College, 
 with that Splendor and Magnlricence, that for Spa- 
 cioufnefs, and the Beauty and Uniformity of its 
 Buildings, it is hardly to be outdone. All wljich 
 has been fmce ftill further improved, by a moll noble 
 and ftately Library, begun by the late fomous Dr. 
 Ifaac Barrow : A Building, for the Bignefs and De- 
 fign of it, fays a Right Reverend Prelate, perhaps 
 not to he matched in thefe Kingdoms. Nor is the 
 Learning of the prefent Mafler eafily to be parallel'd, 
 any more than the Troubles given to the College by 
 the Contention between him on the one Side, and the 
 College and Biihops of Ely^ itsVifitors, on the othef : 
 which, take them all together, in their Caufs;s, 
 Progrefs, and invalid Decifion againft him, as 'it 
 hitherto proves, is one of the moll extraordinary 
 Affairs that ever happened in the Univerfity, 
 
 15. Emanuel College 
 
 Was founded Amio 1584 by Sir Walter Mi hhnay. 
 Chancellor of the Exchequer to Qiieen EH7^abethj 
 in a Place where was formerly a Convent of Domi^ 
 tiicans., founded in the Year 1280. by the Lady 
 Alice., Countefs of Oxford. After the Suppreffion 
 of Monalleries it came into the Pofleffion of Mr. 
 Sherwood, of whom Sir Walter feem,s to have bought 
 it. It has a very near Chapel, built not m.any 
 Years ago, by the Bounty of Dr. William Sancroff, 
 Archbifliop of Canterbury., and others. And the 
 Library belonging to it has received of late Years a 
 fine Addition, by tlis valuable Colledion of Books of 
 the fame Archbifliop, given to it on the Deceafe of 
 fhat Prelate, 
 
 f 7- 16, Sidney- 
 
if'oo ^ T O U R thro Cambr. 
 
 16. Sidney-Sussex College 
 Was founded by virtue of the Will of the Lady 
 Frances Sidney^ Countefs of Sujfex^ who died Anna 
 3589, and by her Will left 5000/. for the founding 
 of a College, to be called Sidney- Sujfex. It was 
 created on ^the Place where formerly the Monaftery 
 of Grey Friers built by King Edward I. had flou • 
 j-iflied. But tho' this College owes its Rife to the 
 Bequeft of this Lady, and the Care of her Execu- 
 tors, it is exceedingly improved by the Benefactions 
 of Sir Francis Clerk^ who befides erecting a Set of 
 new Buildings, augmented ihe Scholarihips, and 
 founded four FeUovvfhips with eight Scholarfhips 
 more ; and moreover Sir John Brereton left to it 
 above 2000 /. 
 
 Thefe are the Sixteen Colleges or Halls in this 
 XJniverfity, 
 
 The New Senate-honfe is a fine Edifice, and with 
 tli Schools, the Univerfity-Library, and fome other 
 Jjuildings intended to be erc6ted oppofite to it, will 
 .form a itately Qiiadrangle. It is in Length lOT 
 Feet, and in Breadth 42 , and is adorned with flute4 
 Pillars, a triangular Pediment, and other beautiful 
 Pecorations. 
 
 The Schools of this Univerfity were at firft in 
 private Houfes, hired from Ten Years to Ten Years 
 for that Purpofe, by the Univerfity, in v/hich Time 
 they might not be put to any other Ufe. After- 
 v/ards Publick Schools were built at the Charge of 
 the Univerfity, in or near the Place where they now 
 ftand J but the prefent Fabrick, as it is now burlt of 
 Brick and rough Stone, was ereiEted partly at the 
 E;:pcnce of the'Univerfity, and partly qy the Con-f. 
 tributions of feveral BenpfatStors. 
 
 The Univerfity Library was firft built by Ret he-, 
 ram Archbifnop of York, who, with Tonjial Blfhop 
 pf Durha?n, furnifi-ied it with choice Books; few 
 vvhereof are to be found ^t prefect, ^ut it con- 
 
 tametf^ 
 
Cambf. IDreat Britain. loi 
 
 tained neverthelefs about 14000 Books, when hiS 
 late Majefty King George I. was gracioufly pleafed, 
 in the Beginnhigof his Reign, to purchafe the large 
 and curious Library of Dr. John Moor, Bifhop of 
 Ely, who died July 30. 1714 ; and as a Mark of 
 his Royal Favour, to beftow it upon this Uni- 
 Verfity. 
 
 There have been very lately great Additions and 
 Alterations made in the Library, for the better Di(- 
 {)ofition of this valuable Royal Prefent, which con- 
 fifted of upwards of 30,000 Volumes, and coft the 
 King 6000 Guineas. And we cannot but obferve, 
 in this Place, That the late Lord Vifcount Townf- 
 hend, having underftood that the Univerfity, tofhev/ 
 their Gratitude, and do Honour to the Memory of 
 his late Majefty King George I. intended to ercdl a 
 Statue of that Prince in the faid Library, was 
 pleafed to offer to caufe the fame to be cai'ved and 
 fet up at his own Expence ; which generous Tender 
 was received by the Univerfity in the Manner it 
 deferved, and v/ith Circumftances equally to their 
 own and his Lordfhrp's Honour. And in the Month 
 of OSioher 1739. in purfuance thereof, a fine Marble 
 Statue of this great Prince was accordingly erefted in 
 the Senate-hall of King's College; on which are the 
 following Infcriptions i viz. On the Front : 
 
 GEORGIO 
 
 Optimo Principi, 
 Magna Britannia Rsgt, 
 Ob irifigma ejus ir. hancAcademiam 
 Merita, 
 Seisatus Cantabrigienjis 
 In ferpetuum 
 Cratt jinimo T'ejiimonium 
 Stafuam 
 Mortuo ponendam 
 Decrcvit, 
 
 That IS, 
 
 The Senate of Cambridge has de- 
 creed. That this Statue fliould 
 be erefted to his late moll ex- 
 cellent Majefty George I. King 
 of Great Britain, as a perpetual 
 Monument of their Gratitude, 
 for his fignal Benefits to thi« 
 Univerfity, 
 
 On 
 
102 T O U R l/jro' Cambr. 
 
 On the Left : 
 
 CAROLUS 
 
 P}crccmes To-^ciy/jri-d, 
 Summum tun; /fcj.dem: ce , turn 
 Rcipubtica Dect/s, 
 Fro Exinua, q::a Rcgcm Cc'ui'fcTt , 
 Ficlj^i, Prorue Jl'^ip'.lurt, 
 '^ua Aiadcir.iam fcvcrr-.t y 
 Car / •, r . Sta! u a rn 
 A Scr.atu Academkc Decretam 
 S!i/}:pt:bus fuis e Mamiore 
 Faciendam Loca-vit, 
 
 CAROLUS Fa"«j 
 
 Vicccomes Toivnjhevd, 
 Virtutuni <xque ac Hcnorum 
 Faterfio! unt Hares, 
 Statu am, 
 £^am Pater Morte Jubita abrrptus 
 ImperfeSlam reliquerat , 
 
 Perficiendam, 
 At que in hoc ornatijjimo 
 Academiie Loco coUocandam, 
 Curaw't. 
 
 7ha^ ix, 
 
 Charles Lord Viicuu. t rcivnj}:e)id, 
 a pi-ncipj] Ornament bptr/ot the 
 rniverfity, and the State, ngree- 
 f.biy to his f;ngular Loyrjty to- 
 w.r.i'i h'f Prince, ami the par- 
 tituhr .AiT;:clion, wherewith he 
 hndchiriihed rhc Uiiiver(it\ , en- 
 gaged to i.avc the Statu-, vvh;ch 
 was d'cr;td by the Senate of 
 Can-.brid e, rrc'.de of Marble at 
 his own Expjr.ce. 
 
 lhat-is, 
 
 CharLs. the Cu.-i. Lord ■ ViYcount 
 1in:\ji:cr.d, J-.'r r alike to the 
 Virtues n, • i; , -;:»sof his Pa- 
 th' r, h.5 r ] the Statue, 
 'vh'c!. )us"-'K^, , il-ized by f\!d- 
 den Dciiili, D.^i Jeft iinperfeft, 
 to be fifiiftedj ?:id ered^ed in this 
 moft honourabie Place of the 
 Univetfity. 
 
 This great King was not contented with having 
 
 fiven this noble Inftance of his Royal Bounty to the 
 Jniverfity of Cambridge^ but in the Year 1724 
 was gracioufly pleafed to confer another Mark of his 
 Favour upon them, and which extended not only 
 to that, but to the Univerfity of Oxford ; in creating 
 a new Eftablifliment in a moft ufeful Branch of 
 Learning, which was much wanted, and for which 
 till then there had been no Provifion : - which vv'as 
 to appoint two Perfons not under the Degree of 
 Mafter of Arts, or Batchelor of Laws, fkilled in 
 Modern Hiftory, and in the Knowledge of Modern 
 Languages, to be nominated King's Profeflbrs of 
 Modern Hijftory, one for the Univerfity of Cainhridgey 
 and the other for that of Oxford ; who are obliged 
 to read Ledlures in the Publick Schools, at parti- 
 cular Times, each of which Profeflbrs to have a 
 
 Stipend 
 
.Jambr. Grea T Britain. io^ 
 
 Stipend of 400/. per Annum ; out of which each 
 Profeffbr is obliged to maintain, with fufficient Sala- 
 ries, Two Perfoas at leaft, well qualified to teach and 
 inftru£l in writin^y and fpeaking the laid Languages 
 gratis. Twenty Scholars of each Univerfity, to be 
 nominated by the King, each of which is obliged to 
 learn Two, at Ic-^ft, of the faid Languages. 
 
 The fame excellent Prince alfo was ple^fed to ap- 
 point Twelve Perfons, cliofen out of each of the 
 Univerfities, to be Preachers in the Royal Chapel-of 
 Whitehall, ^at {'ated Times, with handfome Salaries ; 
 and declared that he would caufe a particular Regard 
 to be had to the Members of the Two Univerfities 
 in the Difpofitions of thofe Benefices which fell in 
 the Royal Gift. / 
 
 Some other Benefaaions to this Univerfity, with- 
 in thefe few Years paft, are as follow. 
 
 Dr. John V/oodward, who died Jpril 25. 1728, 
 left to the Univerfity of Cambridge a Sum of Money, 
 for erefling a Profefforftip for Natural Philofophy, 
 with a Provifion of 150/. per Annum for theSupport 
 and Maintenance of the fame for ever. He likewife 
 ' bequeathed to the faid Univerfity his Collecftion of 
 Foffils, and other natural Curiofities, and fuch a 
 Part of his Library moreover, as was neceffary to 
 illuftratc his faid Colleftion. 
 
 On the Death of Mrs. Addenbroke ( Mar. 1720) 
 AVidowof an eminent Phyfician of that Name, the 
 Sum of about 4000 /. devolved to this Univerfity ; 
 which, by the Dodor's Will, is to be applied to the 
 ' Building and Furniiliinga Phyfical Hofpital in Cam- 
 bridge, "in which poor difeafed People are to be ad- 
 mitted for Cure, gratis. The Mafler and Fellows 
 of Catharine-hall are appointed Truflees of this 
 Charity. 
 
 I {hall not here enter into the puerile Cifpute, 
 (which has fo much engaged feveral learned Pens, 
 that might have been better employed) whether this 
 F 4 Univerfity, 
 
1C54 A TOUR thrd Cambr. 
 
 TJniverfity, or that of Oxford^ Is the moft ancient. 
 Their Emulation ought to be more worthily founded ; 
 and indeed they have fo much to boaft, as to the 
 great and fhining Ornaments they have refpe£lively 
 produced to Church and State, and the Figure they 
 make in the Commonvi'ealth of Learning, that it is 
 ihange fo trifling a Contention fhould have been fo 
 warmly maintained. 
 
 C antbi-'idge-cajile was built by William the Con- 
 queror^ as one of thofe many which he ere6^:ed in 
 <iivers Parts, to curb his newly conquered Pc-ople. 
 It was ftrong and ftately, and had in it, among other 
 •fpacious Apartn;^pnts, a moft magnificent Hall. Thi* 
 being neglefted, the Stones and Timber of it were 
 afterwards begged of Henry IV. by the Mafter and 
 Fellows of King's-hall^ towards the Building of their 
 Chapel. Nothing is now flanding but the Gate- 
 lioufe, which is the Prifon, and an artificial high 
 Hill of a fteep Afcent, and level at Top. 
 
 The Town of Cambridge is very large, moft of 
 its Streets are narrow, the Houfes very ill-built, and 
 the greateft Part of them much out of Repair ; fo 
 that, were it not for the Colleges, and other publick 
 idifices, it would make a very mean Appearance. 
 
 From Cambridge the Road lies North- weft," oft 
 the Edge of the Fens, to Huntingdon ; on which 
 'ftands the little Market-town of Caxton^ remark- 
 able for the Birth-place of Caxton, the firft Printer 
 3n England. The Roman Way pafles from Arington 
 fi. E. thro' Holm into this Town, and fo on to 
 Papworth, higher up on the fame Road ; which 
 three laft-mentioned Places are Villages only. On 
 this Side, 'tis all an agreeable Corn Country, 
 {idorned with feveral Seats of Gentleman ; but the 
 chief is Wimple- Hall^ formerly built at a vaft Ex- 
 pence, -by the late Earl of Radnor. It was after- 
 wards bought by his Grace yohn Holies Cavendijh., 
 -late Duke of NewcaJiU j in a Partition of whofe vaft 
 
 Eftat^, 
 
EiTex. Great Britain. 105 
 
 Eftat^, it fell to Edward late Earl of Oxford and 
 Mortimer^ in Right of his I-ady, the only Daughter 
 of the faid Duke; who brought the Earl this Eltate, 
 and many others, fufficient to denominate her one 
 of the richeft Heirefles in Great Britain \ but his 
 Lordfliip parted with^ it a little beforehis Death, to the 
 Right Hon. the Lord Chancellor i/arr/tczV/^, who now 
 poffeffes it. It is fituated in a very dirty Country ; 
 and notwithftanding the Coft beftowed upon it from 
 its firft Owner to this Time, the Gardens and Build- 
 ings are both in a very bad Tafte. 
 
 From Cambridge^ my Defign obliging me, and 
 the dire£t Road in part concurring, I cam.e back 
 thro' the Weft Side of the County of EJfex^ to 
 Saffron-Walden^ paffing by Linton, a fmall Market- 
 town of no Note, faving that a Roynan Military 
 Way falls into the Ikening here. 
 
 Saffron-JValden is a fair Town, with a good Church, 
 •where ftands a Monument of the Lord Audley, 
 Chancellor to King Henry VIIL who made him a 
 Grant of certain Lands belonging to a diflblved 
 Monaftery near this Town, which takes its Name 
 from the great Qiiantities of Saffron which formerly 
 grew in the Grounds, and were cultivated here- 
 abouts, and anfwered exceeding well in the Manu- 
 fadfuring ; but how it came into Decav, nobociv 
 could account to me, though there may be flill 
 feen a great many Acres of Saffron-ground about 
 this Town. This Commodity was never known 
 to grow in England^ till the Reign of Edward IW. 
 This Town givesTitleof Baron to the Earl of Suffolk,^ 
 whofe eldeft Son is by Courtefy called Lord IValden. 
 
 Near this Town, on the Side of Cambridge Road, 
 ftands the noble and ftatelv Palace Audley- Inn ^ cr 
 Audley~end, formerly the laroeft Palace of anv in 
 England ; and tho'agreat Part of it has been pulled 
 down> is ftill one of themoft magnificent Strudturre 
 
 F 5 in 
 
io6 T O U R thro" EiTex. 
 
 the whole Kingdom. It was built out of the Ruins 
 of the above-mentioned Monaftery, hyThomas^tcond^ 
 Son of 'TboTiias Duke of Norfolk, who married the 
 only Daughter and Heir of the afore-named Lord 
 Audley. This Thomas was fummoned into Parlia- 
 ment in Queen Elizabeth'sli^'ime, as Lord Audley of 
 JValden ; and was afterwards created Earl of Suffolk 
 by Kin^ yames 1. to whom he was firll: Chamber- 
 lain, and afterwards Lord High-Treafurer. It was 
 defigned for a Royal Palace for that King, and when 
 it was finiihed with all the Elegance and Politenefs 
 of Tafte of the Times, the King was invited to fee 
 it ; and as he palled to Newmarket, he took up a 
 Night's Lodging there. And after having viewed it 
 w'ith great Surprife and Aftonifhment, the Earl 
 afked him. How he approved of it? Who anfwer'd. 
 Very well. But troth, Pv'Ian, faid he, 'tis too much for 
 a Fung \ but it may do for a Lord High-Treafurer ; 
 and fo left it upon the Earl's Hands, who is reported 
 to have had then anEftate of 50,000 /. aYear, which 
 has been gradually decaying ever fmce, and is now 
 reduced to about 3000 /. a Year v/ith Incumbrances 
 upon it.- King Charles II. purchafed this Houfe, 
 and fo it became, what it was originally defigned 
 for, a Royal Palace. The King mortgaged the 
 Hearth-tax to the Earl, to anfvver the Purchafe- 
 money ; and appointed James, then Earl of Suffolk, 
 Houfe-keeper thereof, with a Salary of 1000 /. a 
 Year ; which Office continued in the Family till 
 the Revolution, when the Hearth-tax was abolifhed. 
 And the Exigence of the State being fuch as it could 
 not afford to pay the Purchafe-money, King 
 William III. regranted the faid Houfe to the Family ; 
 upon which Henry, Earl of Suffolk, (who in his 
 Father's Life- time was created Earl of Bindon, to 
 qualify him to hold the Marfhal's Staff) pull'd down 
 a great Part of this noble Edifice, and reduced it 
 coniiderably. And yet it is ftill very large, and 
 
 makes 
 
EfTex. Great Britain. 107 
 
 makes a grand Appearance. You enter in at a large 
 wide Pair of Iron Gates into a moft Tpacious Court- 
 yard, on each Side of which was formerly a Row 
 of Cloyfters, in v/hich flood the Out-oifices belong- 
 ing to the Houfe ; which have been all pulled down, 
 and fupplied with a Stone Wall. You pafs in at the 
 Fore-front, thro' Part of the Houfe, into a large 
 open Quadrangle, inclofed by four different Parts of 
 the Houfe, and almoft furrounded with Cloyflers. 
 The Apartments above and below are very lofty 
 and fpacious ; and there is a very long wide Gallery, 
 which extends the whole Length of the Back-front 
 of the Houfe, The Gardens are very indifferent, 
 but very capable of Improvement. Behind the 
 Houfe is a fine Park, extending to Saffron-Walden^ 
 well ffored with Deer, but not over-burdened with 
 Timber ; in which there is a rifing Spot of Ground, 
 whereon if the Houfe had been erefted, it would 
 have had a much better Effeft as to Profpeft ; for 
 its prefent Situation is low, neither are the Grounds 
 about it very fertile, or, I think, healthy. 
 
 But however greatand magnificent this noble Houfe 
 appears, it bears an indelible Stain, if what is faid 
 be true, That it was built with Spanifo Gold, upon 
 the Ruin of the Great and Learned Ralegh^ who 
 fell by the Revenge of Spain^ the Arts of Gundanior, 
 the Avarice of Suffolk^ and the unpardonable W cak- 
 nefs of his own King. But the prefent Earl's Mind 
 is more nobly endowed than that of his great An - 
 ceftor, as being a generous and truly charitable 
 Nobleman, which he has teftified by many bene- 
 ficent Afts among his poor Neighbours, efpecially 
 during the great Froft in the Winter of 1739. 
 
 At°a little Town called LiUlebury^ not far from 
 Audley-Inn^ is a Ploufe which was ereded by the 
 famous Mr. TVinJIanley, who built Eddy-Jione Light- 
 houfe, and perilhed in it, as I (hall mention in its 
 Place. Here he had made many odd Contrivances 
 
 F 6 of 
 
io8 T O U R thro" EfTex. 
 
 of Chairs running on Springs, Cfff. which ufually 
 much fufprifed Strangers, who came to fee the Houfe. 
 The Perfon appointed to fhew it generally placed 
 the greateft Stranger into a particular Chair, which, 
 on touching the Spring, ran backward thro' the Houfe 
 into the Garden. The fame Gentleman was famous 
 alfo for his Water-works, full of whimfical, but 
 ingenious Contrivances. 
 
 But I ought not to omit, that near Icleton and 
 Strethal, upon the River Cam, lies Chejierford ; 
 where, in the Year 17 19, were difcovered the 
 Vejiig'ia of a Roman City. The Foundation of 
 the Walls is very apparent quite round, tho' level 
 with the Ground, including about 50 Acres. Great 
 Part of it ferves for a Caufeway to the publick 
 ■Cambridge Road from Londo7i. The Crown- Inn is 
 tuilt upon it. In the North-weft End of the Town 
 is the Foundation of a Roman Temple, Many Ro- 
 man Coins have been found in the Borough-field, as 
 they term the antient City, whofe Name was Cam- 
 horitian, according to Dr. Stukely. In this Parifli, 
 ihey fay, has been a Royal Manor. Not far off, 
 by ' Aii 'dley-Inn, is a great Roman Camp, upon an 
 Eminence, where now ftands an Hunting-tower of 
 Brick. 
 
 A little North of this Part of the Country rifes 
 the River ^tour, which, for a Courfe of fifty Miles 
 or more, parts the two Counties of Suffolk and EJJ'ex ; 
 paffing thro' or near Haveril, Clare, Cavendijh, 
 Haljled, Sudbury, Buers, Nayland, Stretford, Ded~ 
 ham, Mannlngtree, and into the Sea at Harwich. 
 
 As we came on this Side, we faw at a Diftance 
 Braintree and Backing, two large and populous 
 Towns, which join together, being parted by a little 
 Stream of Water. Thefe were formerly very rich 
 and ftourifhing, occafioned by the great Trade for 
 Bays, which were manufa£lured in fuch Qiiantities 
 in thefe two Towns, as tp fend weekly to London 
 
 Fpur, 
 
Effex. Great Britain. lop 
 
 Four, Five, or Six Waggons l^^en with them^ but 
 this Trade having greatly decreafed m a few Year 
 the Inhabitants are in a very miferab e 
 prefent; for by an Increafe of ^^eir Poor tneir 
 PariOi Rates are rifen fo high, as m the Year 7 38 
 
 the Poors Rate in Booking P^-^^^^ fj^^/^^er S 
 inthePound; which, together with their othe^^^^^^^ 
 
 and Taxes, rendered it very burdenfome to aU the 
 Inhabitants : and at the fame t^me t^^ ^^^^^^^^ 
 having infefted boththe Towns, thei Markets were 
 almoftdeferted by the Country People. ^^^^^ 
 of Becking is a Deanery, and the Uving is valued at 
 
 "^rrtri TthtS of Blf Nouly. in 
 which aVe a few fcattered Houfcs, fcarcely worth 
 noticing except for the Memory of the late learned 
 Mr ^X who refided many Yeursm this Place, and 
 wa buried in the Church-yard, over whofe Grave a 
 Monument was ereaed, with an 
 Latin; which being long, ^^^^ f ^f. .iv^'^ 
 to the Original, and content ourfelves with giving 
 the Endilh:; for the fake of our common Readers, 
 and tn f ega'rd to fo great a Man, who was an Ho- 
 nour to his Country. It may be thus rendered 
 
 " The mortal Part of the moft learned J.^/z 
 « Ray A M. is depofited in this narrow 1 omb ; 
 
 but his Writings are not confined to one lSation ; 
 - and his Fame, every-where moft iHuftrious, 
 renders them immortal. Formerly he was Fellov/ 
 " oiTrinity-CoUegemCambridge, and of the Royal 
 Society in London, a fingular Ornament of both. 
 « In every kind of Science, as well divine as human, 
 « moft expert. And, like afecond _5.W, (to 
 « whom alone, perhaps, he was inferior) from the 
 «c Cedar to the Hyffop, from the largeft of Ani- 
 « mals tothefmalleftlnfeas, he arrived at a con- 
 ic fummate Knowledge. And not only did he 
 moft accurately difcQurfe pf Plants fpread oyer the 
 
no ^ TOUR thro" Efe. 
 
 " Face of the whole Earth ; but, makhig a moft 
 ftna Search, even into its inmoft Bowels what- 
 
 " ever deferved Difcuffion throughout all N^fnrr^ 
 hedefcrib'd. While on his Travis abroad, "iJe d -' 
 gently difcovered -vvhat had efcaped the Obfervation 
 
 ' of others, and firft brought to Light many things 
 
 " moft worthy of Remark. Firrther than this he 
 was endowed with fo unaffefted a manner of 
 Behaviour that he was learned without Pedant- 
 
 7 i X. ^- T V'"^"'' ^"^ ^^^^ time 
 
 (which is rarely known) of an humble and 
 
 mo^eft Difpofition. Not diftinguifned by an 
 " illuftrious Extradion ; but (what is greater) by 
 
 Z 1 ^^"J" ^"/'"'^^"^ obtaining 
 
 Wealth and Titles, he chofe rather to defervS 
 " than to polTefs them. Content with his own Lot 
 « he grew old in a private Station, worthy a more 
 " ample Fortune. In every other refped he readily 
 " oblerved Moderation ; in Study, none 
 
 " To conclude: To all thefe Perfedions he added 
 " a Piety free from Artifice ; bearing an. intire ?nd 
 « hearty Veneration for the Church of England 
 " which he confirmed with his laft Breath. Thus' 
 *' happily, in a virtuous Retirement, lived he, whom 
 " the prefent Age reveres, and Pofterity will 
 " admire." ^ 
 
 N. B. This Monument beginning; to want Repair 
 by {landing expofed in the Church-yard, hath been 
 lately removed, and fet up in the Chancel of Black 
 Notely Church. To the former Epitaph is added 
 on the Table on the Eaft-fide, a Latin Infcription' 
 which may be thus rendered : 
 
 This Cenotaph, formerly expofed to the open 
 ' Air in the Church-yard, defaced by the Injuries 
 ' of the Weather, and juft falling into Ruins, was 
 * by 7. Legge M. D. repaired, and removed under 
 ' Shelter, March I'j, 1737, Xhe 
 
ElTex. Great Britain. hi 
 
 The Country hereabout is very pleafant, having 
 many Rifings and Falls, with great Plenty of Water. 
 The Fields are well cultivated, fo as to render the 
 whole Face of the Country like a Garden. But 
 what is often very furprifing to Strangers, is, the 
 Nakednefs of moft of the large Trees growing in 
 their Hedge Rows, and on the Sides of the Road, 
 even in the Month of May \ at which time few of 
 them have put out any Leaves; but, upon Inquiry, 
 I found they were a peculiar Sort of Elm, which 
 rarely puts out Leaves before the Middle of May ; 
 and this is one of the moft common Trees of this 
 Country. 
 
 Near Braintree is Feljied, a fmall Place, but 
 noted for a flouriftiing Free-School, of an antient 
 Foundation. 
 
 Near to this is the Priory of Lees, which I men- 
 tioned before (P.20.) ; and hence keeping the Lon- 
 don Road, I came to Chebnsford, mentioned alfo 
 before, and Ingatejlone, five Miles V/eft, which I 
 mention again, as I promifed, {Pag. 20.) to have an 
 Opportunity to fpeak of the noble Family of Lord 
 Petre, and of the Lnprovements making at his Seat 
 near this Place, by the prefent Lord, who is a Noble- 
 man of fine Tafte, and great Qualities. 
 
 Ligaiejfone-hall, one of his Lordfliip's Seats, lies 
 at a fmall Diftance from the publick Road, on the 
 Right-hand, about a Qiiarter of a Mile fliort of 
 Ingatejione Town. 
 
 The Houfe is fituated very low, fo as not to be 
 feen at a fmall Diftance. It is a very large, irregular 
 Building, and the Gardens are old ; tho' there were 
 many Alterations made in them for the better, by the 
 prefent Lord, before he came of Age ; but as this 
 was not the Seat where he intended to refidc, fo his 
 Lordftiip did not employ his fine Genius in modelling 
 of thefe Gardens ; but his whole Thoughts were 
 bent to embeliifh noble Seat at Thomdon^ which 
 
 ie 
 
112 ^TOUR//W EfTex. 
 
 is fituated on a rifing Ground, about three Miles on 
 the Right-hand of Brentwood in Ejex : where his 
 Lordftiip has been fome Years laying of a Plan for 
 a Houfe and Gardens, which when executed will 
 be an Honour to the Nation. ' 
 
 The Houfe, when finiflied, will be 265 Feet in 
 Front, exclufive of the Offices. The principal 
 Front IS to the South-eaft Afped, where is defigned 
 a fpacious Court. Before this is defigned a Ter- 
 race-walk near 200 Feet broad, and of a great 
 Length ; on the other Side of this, will be a Lawn 
 of Grafs, containing near 200 Acres of Land, which 
 IS bounded by Plantations of Trees, and handfome 
 r arms. 
 
 On the Back-front of the Houfe is a noble Range 
 of Stoves, for tender Exotick Plants ; which when 
 £niftied will far exceed whatever has been done 
 of this Nature, even by the greateft Princes in 
 Jiurope. 
 
 The Park, which lies on the North-eaft and 
 North- weft Side of the Houfe, is very larcre, and 
 well ftocked with Timber, which, fully grown' adds 
 greatly to the Beauty of the Place. In many Parts 
 of this Park are large Liclofures, which have been 
 made by the prefent Lord, and are converted to 
 Nurferies, which are completely ftored with all 
 Trees and Shrubs, that will live in the open Air in 
 this Climate ; fo that when thefe Trees are planted 
 out, according to his Lordftiip's Defian, it will be 
 the moft beautiful and complete Plantation perhaps 
 in Europe. 
 
 Thro' the Park there is already an Avenue cut, 
 leaduig from Brentwood to the Houfe, three Miles 
 in Length ; cn each Side of it are defigned Planta- 
 tions of Trees, in regular Clumps, which, when 
 Jinifhed, will have a noble Effect, as People pafs 
 thro', up to the Houfe. 
 
 The 
 
EiTex. Great Britain. 113 
 
 The Kitchen-garden Is already finiftied, and laid 
 out with equal Eles;ance and Ufefulnefs. This is 
 fituated behind the Offices, fo that it does not ap- 
 pear in Sight from the Houfe, and is detached from 
 the other Gardens ; and thereby is not expofed to 
 Strangers, who may have Admittance to walk thro 
 the Pleafure- garden and Plantations. 
 
 In fhort, the whole Plan is the moft extenhvc 
 and grand of any yet executed in this Kingdom. 
 
 In the Parifh-church of Ingatejione are to be 
 feen the Monuments of his Lordfhip's Anceftors, 
 who by a conftant Series of beneficent Aaions to 
 the Poor, and Bounty upon all charitable Occafiom, 
 gained to themfelves an afFeaionate EfVeem thro' all 
 that Part of the Country, fuch as no Prejudice arifmg 
 from a Difference in Religion could or ought 
 to impair ; for great and good Adions command 
 our Refpea, whatever the Opinions of the Donors 
 may be. 
 
 From hence we crolTed the Country to the great 
 Foreft, called Epping Foreji^ reaching almoft to Lon- 
 don. The Country on that Side of EJfex is called 
 , the Roodings^ I fuppofe becaufe there are no lefs than 
 ten Towns almoft together, called by the Name of 
 Roding ; and is famous for good Land, good Malt, 
 and dirty Roads ; the latter being in the Winter 
 hardly paffable for Horfe or M^n. In thie Midft of 
 this we fee Chipping Onger^ Hatfield Broad-Oak, 
 Epping, and many Foreft- towns, famed alfo for 
 Huft)andry, and good Malt. On the South-fide of 
 the County is Waltham- abbey, which was formerly 
 a Monaftery, built by Harold Son to Earl Godwin^ 
 in Honour of the Crofs. The Town is faid to be 
 built and peopled by one Tovius towards the Latter- 
 end of the Saxons Reign. This Town is featcd on 
 the River Lee, where the Streams, being divided, in- 
 clofe feveral fmall Iflands, which in times of great 
 Floods are commonly overflowed : but thefe Meadows 
 
 produce 
 
114 ^rOVK fhro' E/Tex. 
 
 produce great Plenty of Grafs in Summer, fo 
 that here are many Dairy Farms which turn to 
 good Account. 
 
 The Abbey is turned into a Seat, which is now in 
 
 the Poffeffion of Jones, Efq; The Gardens 
 
 belonging to this Houfe, were, fome Years fmce, 
 in great Repute ; but ilnce the Tafte for inclofed 
 Gardens has been condemned, they have been little 
 frequented, unlefs^by fome curious Perfons, to fee 
 the Tulip-tree, which grows on a Grafs-plat near 
 the Houfe, and is one of the fineft and moft flourifh- 
 Jng of the Kind in England, producing annually a 
 great Qiiantity of Flowers in the Month of July. 
 
 At this Abbey was bury'd the Body of King 
 Harold, flain in the great Battle in Suffex againft 
 William the Conqueror, whofe Mother begged that 
 Favour g{ the Conqueror-^ but no Monuinent was 
 built for him, only a flat Grave-ftone, on which 
 was fignificantly enfiraven, Harold Infelix ! 
 
 From hence 1 came again over the Lower or 
 Weftern Part of the Foreft, where it is befpangled 
 with Villages, filled with fine Seats, moft of them 
 built by Citizens of London ; but the Luftre of them 
 feems to be intirely eclipfed by the magnificent 
 Palace of Earl Tilney, which I barely mentioned, 
 (P'^S' 3- j an<i intimated that I would touch upon it 
 again ; as I fhall now briefly do. This noble Seat 
 was prepared by his Lordfliip's Father Sir J ofiah 
 Child, in his Life-time, who added to the Advantage 
 of its Situation a vaft Number of Rows of Trees, 
 planted in curious Order for Avenues and Vifta's, all 
 leading up to the Spot of Ground where the old 
 Houfe ftood. 
 
 In the Place adjoining, the prefent Lord, before 
 he .was ennobled, and fomeYears before he began the 
 Foundation of his new Houfe, laid out the moft 
 fpacious Pieces of fine Ground in Gardens, that are 
 to be feen in this Part of England, The Green- 
 
 houfe 
 
EfTex, Great Britain. 115 
 
 houfe is an excellent Building, fit to entertain a 
 Prince ; 'tis furniftied with Stoves, and artificial 
 Places for Heat, from an Apartment which has a 
 Bagnio, and other Conveniencies, which render it 
 both ufeful and pleafant ; and thefe Gardens h^^.vc 
 been fo much the Admiration of the Publick, that 
 it has been the general Diverfion of the Citizens to 
 go out to fee them, till the Crouds grew fo great, 
 that his Lordfhip was obliged to reftrain the (hewing 
 them to particular and flated Times. 
 
 The Houfe v/as built fince thefe Gardens were 
 finifhed. It is all of Portland Stone in the Front, 
 which gives it a moft magnificent Effeil at a Diftance j 
 as the Nature of that Stone, except in London^ 
 where it is tinged with Smoke, is to grow whiter 
 and whiter, the longer it ftands in the open Air. 
 
 As the Fore-front of the Houfe looks through a 
 long Row of Trees, reaching to tlie great Road at 
 Leighton-Jlone ; fo the Back-front refpe6ls the Gar- 
 dens, from which you fall down an eafy Defcent, 
 which lands you upon the Terrace, and gives a 
 moft beautiful Profpeft to the River, which is all 
 formed into Canals and Openings, to anfwer the 
 Views from above ; and beyond the River, the 
 Walks and WildernelTes go on to fuch a Diftance, 
 and in fuch a Manner, up the Hill, as they before 
 went down, that the Sight is loft in the Woods 
 adjoining, and it looks all like one continued planted 
 Garden, as far as the Eye can fee. 
 
 I have not Room in this Letter to fay half what 
 might be faid^ of this truly noble Palace, nor for a 
 particular Defcription of the beautiful Houfe and 
 Gardens ere£led at Low-Layton^ by the late Sir 
 F'ijl:)cr Tench ; which the Duke d'Autnont^ Embaf- 
 fador from France^ about the Year 17 ii, faid 
 was one of the neateft Boxes he had feen in Eng- 
 land ; and fo fliall haften to conclude this Letter. 
 
 From 
 
Ii6 '^TOUR/W EfTe^f. 
 
 From Earl Tilney's Houfe, and the reft of the 
 fine Dwellings on that Side of the Foreft, (for there 
 are feveral very good Houfes at Wanftead^ only that 
 they feem, as I have faid, all loft in the Luftre of 
 his Lordfhip's Palace) I went South, towards the 
 great Road over that Part of the Foreft called the 
 Flats : And by this Turn came necefiarily on to 
 Stratford y w^here I fet out. And here I fhall 
 conclude my fecond Letter, with afluring you, 
 that I am 
 
 Tour moji Hihnhle Servant* 
 
 LET- 
 
Kent, Great Britain. ii^ 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A Description of the County of 
 Kent, 
 
 SHALL begin my Account of the 
 famous County of Kent at Deptford. 
 It was antiently called Weji-Greenwich, 
 and is a very large Town, and of late 
 fo very much improved, that a hand- 
 fome new Church has been built there, 
 dedicated to St. Paul. 
 
 ' Here was built, by King Hemy VIII. a btore- 
 houfe, who alfo incorporated certain Officers by the 
 Name of Mafter and Wardens of the Holy Trinity : 
 Thefe were to take care of the Building, Keeping 
 and Conduaing of the Royal Navy, Their Hall or 
 Houfe was adjoining tp the Church : and the Trea- 
 furer of the Navy had alfo a convenient Houfe at the 
 Dock for his Refidence. 
 
 Here is a Foundation belonging to the faid Cor- 
 poration Trinity- houfe, by whom it was built at 
 SifFerent Times, and in two Places, not quite con- 
 tiguous. The eld Part contains 21 Houfes, the 
 new for decayed Pilots or Mailers of Ships, 
 
II 8 ^TOVKtM Kent. 
 
 or the Widows of fuch ; the Men are allowed 20 s. 
 the Women 16 s. per Month. 
 
 But what Deptford is moft noted" for, is its 
 noble Dock, where the Royal Navy was ufed to be 
 built and repaired, till it was found more convenient 
 to build the larger Ships at Woolwich^ as Ifiiall men- 
 tion in its Place : notwithftanding which, the whole 
 Area of the Yard is now inlarged to more than 
 double what it formerly was : it has a wet Dock of 
 Two Acres, for Ships, and another of an Acre and 
 half, forMafts^ befides an Inlargement of its Storc- 
 houfes, Dwelling-houfes, Launches, ^c. fuitable 
 to it. 
 
 Near the Dock is a Seat belonging to Sir John 
 Evelyn^ which is called Say^s-court. This was ori- 
 ginally in the Family of the Magmenots^ who were 
 Normans^ one of whom was Lord Warden of the 
 Ports, and Governor of Dover-cajile. 
 
 The Red Houfe at Deptford was a noted Colle£lion 
 of Warehoufes, and Storehoufes for many Sorts of 
 Merchandizes, and particularly Hemp, Flax, Pitch, 
 Tar, &c. But on Thurfday the 5 th of July 1739, 
 a dreadful Fire broke out there, which confumed 
 the fame. The Lofs was incredible ; for the Ma- 
 terials were fo combuftible, that nothing could be 
 favcd, nor could the Flames be extinguiflied, till 
 they had nothing to prey upon. 
 
 From Deptford I proceeded to Greenwich^ one of 
 the moft delightful Spots of Great Britain. The 
 P'ark, in which is the fine Obfervatory called Flam- 
 Jlead-houfe., from the late famous Mathematician of 
 that Name, the Royal Houfe, but more efpccially 
 the noble Hofpital, deferve particular Notice. 
 
 The Ground on which Part of this Hofpital now 
 ftands, is the fame on which was formerly fituatcd 
 the Royal Palace of our Kings. Here Henry VKI. 
 held his Feafls with Joufls and Tournaments ; 
 and the Ground^ which was called the Tilt-yard, is 
 
 the 
 
Kent. Great Bri TAIN. 119 
 
 the Spot on which the EaftWing of the Hofpital 
 is built. 
 
 The Park was inlarged, walled about, and planted, 
 by King Charles II. foon after the Reftoration ; and 
 the Deliga or Plan of a Royal Palace was then laid 
 out, one Wing of which was finilhed in a magni- 
 ficent Manner, and makes now the Firft Wing of 
 the Hofpital, towards London. 
 
 The Royal Palace now remaining was originally 
 built by Humphrey Duke of Gloucejier, furnamed the 
 Good^ Brother of Henry VI. and called by him 
 Placentia. King Henry VII. much inlarged it, 
 added to it a fmall Houfe of Friers- Mendicant^ and 
 finifhed a Tower begun by Duke Humphrey on the 
 Top of the Flill, where now ftands the Royal Obfer- 
 vatory ; from which is a moft pleafant Profpcdt down 
 to the winding River, and the green Meadows. It 
 was completed by King Henry VIII. and afterv/ards 
 much inlarged and beautified by Henry Howard^ 
 Earl of Nartharnpton^ who dwelt in it. Here Queen 
 Mary and Queen Elizabeth were born, and here 
 died King Edward VI. 
 
 The Hofpital was founded by King TVilliam and 
 Queen Mary^ in the Year 1694, for the Relief of 
 Seamen, their Widows, and Children, and Encou^ 
 ragement of Navigation. Three Tables are hung up at 
 the Entrance into the Hall, which record the Names 
 of feveral generous Benefadlors to this noble Charity, 
 amounting in the Whole to the Sum of 58,209/, 
 And in the Year 1732, the forfeited Eftate of the 
 late Earl of De.rvjentwater^ (being, by means of the 
 Right Honourable the Lord V ifcount Gage^ a Peer of 
 Ireland^ recovered out of the Hands of certain pri- 
 vate Perfons, who had purchafed the fame at a Rate 
 vaflly difproportioned to the Value) amounting to 
 near 60CO /. per Annum, v»'as given by Parliament to 
 carrv on and complete this Work ; which will en- 
 able them to profegute it v/ith .Vigour aiid Succefs j 
 
I20 
 
 ^ T O U R thro' 
 
 Kent. 
 
 and accordingly they have made a great Progrefs fince 
 that time in the fecond Wing, and other Parts of 
 this fumptuous Edifice. 
 
 The Hall is very noble, and finely painted by the 
 late Sir 'James ThornhiU. At the Upper-end of it, 
 in an Alcove, are reprefented the prefent Royal 
 Family, the JatePrincefs Sophia^ King Georgel^K.mg^ 
 Georgell. and Qu.eenCaroIme^the Queen Dowager of 
 Pruffia, the Prince of Wales, the Duke, and the five 
 Princefles. On the Ceiling, over the Alcove, are 
 Jier late Majefty Queen Anne, and Prince George of 
 Denmark. And on the Ceiling of the Hall, are King 
 JVilliam, and Queen Mary, with feveral fine em- 
 blematical Figures. 
 
 On a Pedeftal in the Middle of the Area of the 
 Hofpital, fronting the Thames, is a Statue of his 
 Majefty King George II. 
 
 Jnno 1705, 100 difabled Seamen were the firfi: 
 that were received into this Hofpital ; but the prefent 
 Number was made up in December 1737, a complete 
 1000. To each 100 Penfioners Six Nurfes are 
 allowed, who are to be Seamens Widows, at 10/, 
 per Annum, and 2 s. ^^rWeek more to thofe who 
 attend in the Infirmary. Their common Cloathing 
 is Blue, with Brafs Buttons. 
 
 The Church of Greenwich is a very handfome new- 
 built Edifice, dedicated to St. Alphage, Archbifhop 
 of Canterbury, who is faid to have been killed by 
 the Danes on the Spot where the Church ftands, 
 Anno 1 01 2. 
 
 There are two Free-Schools in this Parifh, on? 
 founded by Sir William Boreman, Kt. ' Fhe other was 
 fet up by Mr. John Roan, who left his Eftate for 
 Teaching Boys in Reading, Writing, and Arith- 
 metick ; allowing 2 /. per Annum for each Boy's 
 Cloaths : their Number is Twenty. 
 
 There is alfo a handfome College in this Town, 
 which fronts the Riyer, for the Maintenance of 
 ' * Tw?ntjr 
 
Kent. 
 
 Great Britain. 
 
 121 
 
 Twenty poor Men and a Mafter, founded and well 
 endowed by Henry Earl of tNorthampton, and com- 
 mitted by him to the Care of the Mercers Company 
 of London. A Chapel belongs to this College, 
 where the Earl's Body is laid, which, as well as his 
 Monument, was removed hither a few Years ago, 
 from the Chapel of Dover Caftle, whereof he was 
 Conftable. 
 
 . This Town may be faid to be one of the genteeleft, 
 as well as pleafanteft, in England; the Inhabitants 
 are many of them Perfons of Note and Fafhion, 
 who have ferved abroad in the Fleets or Armies, and 
 here pafs the Remainder of their Days in Eafe and 
 Delight, having the Pleafure to reflect upon the 
 Dangers they have gone thro', and the faithful and 
 honourable Parts they have zStcd on the publick 
 Stage of Life, in their Country's Caufe. 
 
 A Market was ere£led in the Year 1737, at this 
 Town , the Direilion of which is in the Governors 
 of the Hofpital ; and the Profits which ftiall arife 
 from it, are to be carried to the Ufe of that fine 
 Foundation. 
 
 The River of Thames is here very broad, and the 
 Chanel deep, and the Water at fome very high 
 Spring- tides is fait ; but in ordinary Tides, fweet 
 and frefti. 
 
 The Country behind Greenwich adds to the Plea- 
 fure of the Place : Black-heath., both for Beauty of 
 Situation, and an excellent Air, is not out-done by 
 any Spot of Ground in England. 
 
 Near this is a vaft Hill, ufed as a Butt for Archers, 
 and in great Requeft among the neighbouring People, 
 till King Henry VIII's Time ; whence it took the 
 Name of Shooters-hill. 
 
 On the Eaft-fide of Black-heath ftands the Hofpital 
 built by Sir John Morden., Bart, a Turkey Merchant. 
 Several Years before his Death, which happened in 
 1708, he ereded this fpacious Structure, in form of a 
 
 Vol. I. G College, 
 
122 ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 College, folely at his own Charge, in a Field called 
 Great Stone Fields not far from his own Habitation, 
 for the Reception of poor, decayed, honeft Mer- 
 chants, whereof in his Life-time he placed Twelve 
 there. But by reafon of great Lofles, they were 
 reduced to Four in the Lady Morden*s Time, 
 who was forced to retrench the Expences of the 
 Houfe, becaufe the Share allotted her by the laft 
 Will of Sir John^ and fome Parts of his Eftate, did 
 not anfwer fo well as was expedled. 
 
 When fhe died. Sir John's whole Eftate coming 
 to the College, the Number was again increafed, and 
 there are at this Time 35 poor Gentlemen in the 
 Houfe ; and the Number not being limited, they 
 are to be increafed as the Eftate will afford ; for the 
 Building was defigned for, and will conveniently 
 hold 40. 
 
 Seven Turkey Merchants have the Diredlion and 
 Vifitation of this Hofpital, and the Nomination of 
 the Perfons to be admitted into it ; and as often as 
 any of thefe Seven die, the Survivors are to chufe 
 others to fill up that Number. 
 
 Every Treafurer of this Hofpital has 40 /. per 
 Annum. There is alfo a Chaplain, who is to read 
 Prayers twice a Day in the Chapel, and to preach 
 twice every Sunday. His Salary at firftwas3o/. 
 a Year 3 but the Lady Morden doubled it at her 
 Death. She was in other refpetSls a Benefadirefs to 
 the College j and as fhe put up her Hufband's Statue 
 in a Niche over the Gate of the College, the Truftees 
 have alfo put up hers in another Niche adjoining to 
 that of her Hufband. 
 
 The Penfion is 20 /. per Annnm each. At firffc 
 they wore Gowns, with the Founder's Badge ; 
 which they have not done for fome Years. 
 
 The Chapel within the College is neatly wain- 
 fcotted, and hath a coftly Altar-piece, and it has a 
 Burying-place adjoining, for the Members of the 
 
 College. 
 
Kent. Great Britaik. 123 
 
 College. The Founder, according to his own De- 
 -fire, was buried in a Vault under the Communion- 
 table of this Chapel. 
 
 The Chaplain, the Treafurer, the Merchants, arc 
 all indifpenfably obliged to be refident there ; and 
 unlefs in cafe of Sicknefs, no other Perfons are to 
 refide, live, or lodge there ; and no Perfon is to be 
 admitted as a Penfioner, who cannot bring a Certi- 
 ficate to prove himfelf upwards of 60 Years of Age. 
 
 In a Word, as the Situation of the Place is pleafant, 
 [the Air very good, and the Endowment very fuffi- 
 cient, this may be faid to be one of the moft com- 
 fortable and elegant Pieces of Charity in England. 
 
 Near this College is the noble Houfe, or rather 
 Palace, of Sir Gregory Page^ Bart, whofe Father 
 was a Brewer at Greenwich^ a few Years ago. It is 
 one of the fineft Seats in England^ belonging to » 
 private Gentleman ; and the Park, Gardens, and 
 Country round it, contribute to make it a mofl: de- 
 lightful and truly noble Habitation. 
 
 It was begun and intirely raifed and Covered in the 
 Space of Eleven Months, which fhews how foon a 
 large Building may be finifhed, where Money, the 
 Sinews of Building, ^c. is not wanting. 
 
 Over this Heath the famous Roman Watling-Jlreet 
 ran, towards Shooters-hill ; and fo on to Rochejler^ 
 Canterbury^ andi^cwr. Here are great Numbers of 
 fmall Tumuli^ with fome large and eminent ones, 
 out of which Bones have been dug by the late 
 learned Dr. Gale, (who refided many Years on this 
 Heath) which ftiew that many Perfons of Eminence 
 have been formerly buried here. 
 
 On this Heath the Dan'ijh Army lay a great while 
 encamped, A. D. loii; and many Trenches, and 
 other Remains of the Lines of Camps, aie ftill 
 vifible. 
 
 On the other Side of the Heath, North, is Charl- 
 ton^ a well-built pleafant Village. The Church -w-c,^ 
 G 2 beautifieJ 
 
124 ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 beautified and repaired by Order of Sir Edward 
 Netvton^ Bart, who was Tutor to King James the 
 Firft's Son, Prince Henry ; and it is one of the 
 fineft Churches in this County. 
 
 At the Entrance of this Village, fronting Black- 
 heathy ftands the antient Houfe built by Sir Edward 
 Newton, who had this Manor granted to him by King 
 "James I. It is a long Pile of Building in a Gothick 
 Tafte, having Four Turrets on the Top : the Court 
 before the Houfe is fpacious, at the Entrance of 
 which are too large Gothick Piers to the Gates, and 
 in a Line on the Out-fide of the Wall is a long 
 Row of Cyprefs Trees, which are fome of the oldeft 
 in England. On the Back of the Houfe are large 
 ■Gardens, remaining in the fame Tafte in which 
 they were formerly laid out ; and behind thefe is a 
 fmall Park, which joins to Woolwich Common. This 
 Houfe is now in the PoflTefiion of the Earl of 
 E^mont. 
 
 Near the Church are two fine Houfes, one of 
 which was built by the late Lord Romney, who 
 married a Daughter of Sir CloudeJIy Shovel j the 
 other was in the PofleiHon of the late Governor 
 Hunter, before he went to Jafnaica. 
 
 Thefe Houfes iland on the Edge of the Hill, 
 having their Gardens Hoping down towards the 
 River, which, tho' it renders the Profpedt to the 
 River very delightful in the Heat of Summer, yet as 
 it expofes their Gardens to the North Winds, their 
 Fruit-trees are generally blighted ; and in the Spring, 
 when the Wind ufually blows from the North, and 
 Eaft, thefe Gardens are fo much expofed to them, 
 that it is very few Days, during that Seafon, that 
 Perfons can v/alk with any Pleafure in them. 
 
 It is true, that in thefe Gardens you have a large 
 Reach of the River in View, fo that every Tide of 
 Flopd, a great Number of Ships are generally faifing 
 by to London ; as in the Tide of Ebb, many are 
 
 pafling 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 12 f 
 
 paffing toward Grave/end ; which afFords a very de- 
 lightful Sight, as it (hews the great Trade carried on 
 by the Metropolis : yet as the Country on the other 
 Side of the Water is a dead Flat for a great Number 
 of Miles, and this often covered with Water in 
 Winter, fo the Winds not only come very cold 
 over this Flat, but alfo bring Fogs, Damps, and a 
 very unwholfome Air with them, which greatly 
 diminifhes the Pleafure of thefe Seats. 
 
 Charlton is noted for the Fair held in its Neigh- 
 bourhood on St. Luke\-day^ OSlob. i8. cA\t^ Horn- 
 fair \ the Rudenefs of which, in a civilized, well- 
 governed Nation, may well be faid to be unfufferable. 
 The Mob at that Time take all Kinds of Liberties, 
 and the Women are efpecially impudent that Day ; 
 as if it was a Day that juftified the giving them- 
 felves a Loofe to all manner of Indecency with- 
 out any Reproach, or without -incurring the Cen- 
 fure which fuch Behaviour would deferve at another 
 time. 
 
 And this in a Circumftance, which (far from be- 
 ing to be gloried in) ought to be difcountenaneed by 
 the Sex, as fixing the Brand of Incontinence on too 
 many of them, which they have little Reafon to b/ 
 proud of. 
 
 A vulgar Tradition gives the following Origin to 
 this diforderly Fair : It pretends to fay, that one of 
 the Kings of England^ fome fay, King John^ who 
 had a Palace in this Neighbourhood, at Eltham^ 
 being a hunting near Charlton^ then a pitiful Ham- 
 let only, and feparated from his Attendants, entered 
 into a Cottage, and found the Miftrefs of it alone j 
 and fhe being handfome, the King took a Liking to 
 her, and having prevailed over her Modefty, jult in 
 the critical Moment, her Hufband came in ; and 
 vowing to kill them both, the King was forced to 
 difcover himfelf, and to compound with Gold for 
 his Safety, giving him moreover all the Land from 
 G 3 thence 
 
126 ATOVRf^ro' Kent. 
 
 thence as far as the Place now called Cuckold^ s Point ; 
 and making him Mafter of the whole Hamlet, 
 eftablilhed a Fair in favour of his new Demefne ; 
 and in. Memory thereof, Horns, and Wares, and 
 Toys of all Sorts made of Horn, are fold at this 
 Fair. 
 
 Thro' this Town lies the Road to Woolwich, a 
 Town fituated on the Bank, of the River, and wholly 
 taken up by, and in a manner raifed from, the Yards 
 and Works erefted there for the Naval Service. 
 For here, when the Bufmefs of the Royal Navy in- 
 creafed, znd Queen Elizabeth built larger and greater 
 Ships of War than were ufually employed before, 
 new Docks and Launches were eredled, and Places 
 prepared for the Building and Repairing Ships of the 
 largeft Size ; becaufe here was a greater Depth of 
 Water, and a freer Chanel, than at Deptford. 
 
 The Docks, Yards, and all the Buildings belong- 
 ing to it, are encompaffed with a high Wall, and are 
 exceeding fpacious and convenient ; and fo prodigi- 
 oufly full of all Sorts of Stores of Timber, Plank, 
 Mafts, Pitch, Tar, and other Naval Provifions, as 
 can hardly be calculated. 
 
 Befides the Building-yards, here is a large Rope- 
 walk, where the biggeft Cables are made for 
 the Men of War ; and on the Eaft, or Lower-part 
 of the Town, is the Gun-yard, commonly called 
 the Park^ or the Gun-park ; where is a prodigious 
 Quantity of Cannon of all Sorts for the Ships of 
 War, every Ship's Guns apart ; heavy Cannon for 
 Batteries, and Mortars of all Sorts and Sizes ; info- 
 much that, as I was inform'd, here have been fome- 
 times laid up, at one Time, between feven and eight 
 Thoufand Pieces of Ordnance, befides Mortars and 
 Shells almoft beyond Number. 
 
 Here alfo is the Houfe where the Firemen and 
 Engineers prepare their Fire-works, charge Bombs, 
 Carcafles, and Granadoes for the publick Service. 
 
 Here 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 127 
 
 Here is ufually a Guard-fhip riding, efpecially 
 in time of War. The Town of late Years is much 
 inlarged and beautified, feveral fine Docks, Rope- 
 yards, and capacious Magazines added and the 
 Royal Foundery for Cannon repaired and improved. 
 The Thames is here at high Water near a Mile over, 
 and the Water fait upon the Flood ; and as the 
 Chanel lies ftrait Eaft and Weft for about three 
 Miles, the Tide runs very ftrong, and the River is 
 intirely free from Shoals and Sands, and has feven or 
 eight Fathom Water ; fo that the biggeft Ships may 
 ride here with Safety, even at low Water. 
 
 The Parifii-church of Woolwich has been lately re- 
 built as one of the Fifty new Churches, in a very 
 handfome manner. 
 
 From this Town, till we come to Grawfend, the 
 whole Shore is low, and fpread witk Marfties and 
 unhealthy Grounds, except fome few Intervals, 
 where the Land bends inward, as at Erith, Green- 
 hythe^ North- fleet, &c. in which Places the Chalk 
 Hills almoft join the River ; and from thence the 
 City of London, the adjacent Countries, and even 
 Holland and Flanders, are fupplied with Lime, or 
 with Chalk to make it. 
 
 From thefe ClifFs on the River-fide, the Rubbifli 
 of the Chalk, which they muft be otherwife at the 
 Charge of removing, is bought and fetched away by 
 Lighters and Hoys, and carried to all the Forts and 
 Creeks in the oppofite County of EJfex, and even to 
 Sufolk and Norfalk, and fold there to the Farmers 
 to lay upon their Land, which they do in prodigious 
 Quantities ; and are glad to give from is. 6d. to 
 4 J. a Load for it, according to the Diftance. 
 
 This is the Praftice in all the Creeks and Rivers in 
 Ej/ex, even to Maiden, Colchejler, the Nafe, and 
 into Harwich Harbour up to Maningtree, and Ipf- 
 tvich ; as alfo 'n\ Suffolk, to Aldborough, Orford, Dun:' 
 zvichy Swsld, and. as high as Tarmouth in Norfolk. 
 
 Q 4 Thuj 
 
12 8 u4 rOVR thro' Kent. 
 
 Thus the barren Soil Kent (forfuch the chalky 
 Grounds are efteemed) make the ftrong clayey Lands 
 of EJJex rich and fruitful ; and the Mixture of Earth 
 forms a Compofition, which out of two barren Ex- 
 tremes, makes one prolifick- Medium. 
 
 Behind ihefe marfny Grounds in Kent^ at a fmall 
 Diftance, lies the Road from London to Dover^ on 
 which, or near it, are feveral good Towns ; for 
 Example, Eltham^ formerly a Royal Palace, when 
 the Court was kept at Greenwich ; and Queen Eli- 
 zabeth^ who (as before faid) was born at Greenwich^ 
 was often carried to Eltham by her. Nurfes, to draw 
 in the wholfome Air of that agreeable Place ; but 
 at prefent there are few or no Signs of the old Palace 
 to be feen. 
 
 It is now however a pleafant Town, very hand- 
 fomely built, full of good Houfes ; and many Fa- 
 milies of rich Citizens inhabit there, who bring a 
 great deal of good Company with them. 
 
 Near Eltham lies Chefilhurji^ where is the Bury- 
 ing-place of the Family of the PFalftnghams , who 
 reiided in this Parifh for feveral Generations. 
 
 In this Parifh is an antient Seat called Frog-pool^ or 
 Fr agnail^ which in the Reign of King Henry III. 
 was in the Pofleflxon of Thomas le Barbur, who in 
 the 38th Year of the late King's Reign, had a 
 Charter of Free-Warren for his Lands here. This 
 Seat is now in the Pofleflion of Mr. Tryon^ a 
 Merchant of London. 
 
 This Village is famous for the Retirement of the 
 famous Mr. Camden, who refided here for feveral 
 Years, and here compofed the greateft Part of his 
 Jnnals of ^een Elizabeth. 
 
 Near this are feveral other Towns and Villages, 
 as Bexley, Cray ford, Wilmington, Foots-cray, North- 
 cray, kc. which being Places of little Note, I Ihall 
 pafs over with only obferving, that about thefe Vil- 
 lages are many Woods, chiefly of Birch , from vrhence 
 
 the 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 129 
 
 the Broom-makers in Kent-Jireet^ Southward, are 
 fupplied with their Birch, which bring in a con%ler- 
 able Profit to the Land-owners. 
 
 From this Side of the Country, all pleafant and 
 gray, we go over Shooter's-hilly where the Face of 
 Things fcems quite altered ; for here we have but a 
 chalky Soil, and far from rich ; much overgrown 
 with Coppice-wood, which is cut for Faggots and 
 Bavins, and fent up by Water to London. Here they 
 make thofe Faggots which the Wood-mongers call 
 Oftrey-wood, and in particular thofe fmall light 
 Bavins which are ufed in Taverns in London to light 
 their Faggots, and are called in the Taverns a BrJifljy . 
 and by the Wood- men Pimp's. 'Tis incredible what 
 vaft Quantities of thefe ufed to be laid up at TVool- 
 uuich^ Erith., and Dartford ; but fince the Taverns 
 m London are come to make Coal-fires in their. upper 
 Rooms, that Trade declines; and tho' that Article 
 would feem to be trifling in itfelf, 'tis not immate- 
 rial to obferve what an Alteration it makes in the. 
 Value of thofe Woods in Kent^ and haw many more 
 of them than ufual are yearly grubbed up, and the 
 Land made fit for the Plough. 
 
 In July 1739, a very good Defign was begun to 
 be put in Execution on Shooters-hill^ a Number 
 of Hands being employ'd in cutting a new Road, 
 wide enough for three Carriages to pafs abreaft on 
 the Eaftern Defcent of the Hill, which was formerly 
 fo narrow that it was impoffible for a Paffenger, if 
 way-laid, to efcape falling into a RujfRan's Hands, 
 and which gave Occafion to many Robberies Being 
 committed here. 
 
 Dartford is a handfome large Town, hiving 
 many good Houfes in it, and is finely watered by two 
 or three very good Springs ; the River goes thro' the 
 Town, and difcharges itfelf into the 'Thames. On 
 this River the firft Paper-mill in England was built, 
 by Sir John SpiUman, in the Reign of King Charles I. 
 
 G 5 w ho 
 
130 ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 who granteti him a Patent, with a Salary of 200 /. 
 •per Annum for his Encouragement. 
 
 The firft Mill alfo for Slitting of Bars of Iron for 
 making of Wire, was on this River. 
 
 There are two Church-yards here, one about the 
 Church, and the other on the Top of the Hill to- 
 wards North-fleet ; in the latter of which you may 
 look over the Tower of the Church, the Ground 
 riling fuddenly fo very high. 
 
 Here is a very good Market for Corn on Satur- 
 days, and an annual Fair on the 22d of July. 
 
 January 31. 1737-8, the Powder-mill zt Dart- 
 ford blew up, with this remarkable Circumftance, 
 That tho' all the Servants were about their refpedive 
 Employments, not one of them received any Hurt. 
 And it is further remarkable, that within eight 
 Years, this is the fourth Time that this Mill has 
 been blown up, and no Damage done by theDifafter 
 to the Perfons of the People belonging to it. 
 
 Grave [end lies on the North- fide of Kent, on the 
 River Thames, about fix Miles North-eaft from 
 Dartford, and about the fame Diftance ivomRocheJier. 
 The Town of Gravefend and Milton were incorpo- 
 rated in the loth Year of Qiieen Elizabeth, by the 
 Name of the Port-Reeve, Jurats and Inhabitants of 
 the Towns of Gravefend and Milton. As this Place 
 is the moft frequented Paflage of taking Boat for 
 London, by Perfons who come from Z)^7^'^r, Rochefer, 
 &c. or thro' any Part of Kent, from foreign Parts, 
 fo Queen Elizabeth ordered the Mayor^ Aldermen, 
 and Companies of the City of London, to receive 
 all eminent Strangers and EmbafTadors here, in 
 their Formalities, and fo to attend them to London 
 in their Barges, if they came up by Water : and if 
 they came by Land, they were ordered to meet them 
 on Black-heath, on Horfe-back, in their Gowns. So 
 much did that wife Queen confult the Honour and 
 Grandeur of the City ! 
 
 King 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 131 
 
 King Henry YIU. raifed here a Platform of Guns, 
 and another at Milton, as well as two others over- 
 agauift them on the Ejpx Side, for the Security of 
 the River. But fmce the Eredion of Tilbury-fort^ 
 thefe have been demoliftied. 
 
 In the Year 1380, this Town was burnt by the 
 French and Spanijh Galleys, and the Enemies carrieH 
 away moft of the Inhabitants Prifoners. 
 
 Here is a very handfome Charity, given by one 
 Mr. Henry Pinnock, in the Year 1624, of 21 Dwel- 
 lings, and a Houfe for a Matter Weaver to employ 
 the Poor : And a good Eftate is alfo fettled for the 
 Repairs. 
 
 In this Town, on the Eaft-fide, is ftill {landing 
 the Body of an antient Chapel., which feems to have 
 belonged to fome Religious Houfe, for Places in the 
 Walls of the Vault remain ftill for Holy Water. A 
 Market is kept here on Wednefdays and Saturdays, 
 and an annual Fair on the 1 3th of October , which 
 Jails a Week. 
 
 There have been very great Improvements made of 
 the Lands near this Town within a few Years paft, 
 by turning them into Kitchen-gardens, the Land 
 being freih for this Purpofe, as alfo pretty moift, 
 and the Town having good Quantity of Dung made 
 in it, with which they manure the Land : it pro- 
 duces very good Garden-ftuff in great Plenty, 
 wherewith they not only fupply the Towns for 
 feveral Miles round, but alfo fend great Quantities 
 to the London Markets ; particularly Jfparagus, 
 which is fo much efteemed, that the Name of 
 Gravefend will bring a better Price than what is 
 brought from any other Place, this having obtained 
 a much greater Reputation thzw Batterfea, which 
 was fome Years fmce famous for AJparagns. 
 
 As Gravefend is the great Ferry (as they call it) 
 between London ^.n^Eafi- Kent. It is hardly credible 
 what Numbers of People pafs here every Tide, as 
 G 6 well 
 
1.32 ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 \vell by Night as by Day, between this Town and 
 London. Almoft all the People of Eaji-Kcnt, when- 
 they go for London, go no farther by Land than this 
 / own ; and thea for bd. in the Tilt-boat, or i j- 
 m a fmall Boat or Wherry, are carried to London by 
 Water. ^ 
 
 Another Thing for which this Town is worth 
 notice, is, that all the Ships which go to Sea from 
 London, take, as we fay, their Departure from hence ; 
 for here all outward-bound Ships muft ftop, come to 
 an Anchor, and fufFer what they call a fecond Clear- 
 ing J (viz.) here a Searcher of the Cuftoms comes 
 on board, looks over all the Coquets or Entries of 
 the Cargo, and may, if he pleafes, romage the whole 
 Ladmg, to fee if there are any more Goods than are 
 entered ; which however they feldom do, tho' they 
 forget not to take a Compliment for their Civility, 
 r.nd befides being well treated on board, have gene- 
 rally Three or Five Guns fired in Honour to them, 
 when they go off. 
 
 The Method of caufmg all Ships to flop here is 
 worth obferving, and is as follows : 
 
 When a Merchant-fliip comes down from Zo«- 
 don, (if they have the Tide of Ebb under Foot, or 
 a trefii Gale of Wind from the Weft, fo that they 
 iiave what they call Frefti-v/ay, and the Ships come 
 dov/n apace) they generally hand fome of their Sails,- 
 haul up a P^ore-failor Main-fail, or lower the Fore- 
 top-fail, fo-to fiacken her Way, as foon as they come 
 to the Old Man's Head; when they open the Reach, 
 %vi-:;ch they call Grave/end Reach, which begins 
 sbout a Mile and half above the Town, they do the 
 like, to fignify that they intend to bring to, as the 
 Sailors call it, and come to an Anchor. 
 
 As foon as they come among the Ships that are in 
 the Road, (as there are always a great many) tLc 
 Centinel at the Block-ho-ufe on Grave/end Side iires 
 i)is Mufket, which is to tell the Pilot he muft bi-in:^ 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 133'. 
 
 to ; if he comes on, as foon as the Ship paiTes Broad- 
 fide with the Bloek-houfe, the Centinel fires again, 
 which is as much as to fay, JVhy don't you bring to? 
 If he drives a little farther, he fires a third time, and 
 the Language of that is, Bring to immediately, ami 
 let go your Anchor, or we will make you. 
 
 If the Ship continues to drive down, and does not 
 let go her Anchor, the Gunner of the Fort is call'd ; 
 and he fires a Piece of Cannon, tho' without Ball j 
 and that is ftill a Threat, tho' Avith fome Patience, 
 and is to fay, TVill you come to an Anchor, or will you 
 not ? If he ftill ventures to go on, by which he gives 
 them to underftand he intends to run for it, then 
 the Gunner fires again, and with a Shot ; and that 
 Shot is a Signal to the Fortrefs over the Rivfer, viz. 
 lilhury Fort, (which I defcrib'd in my Account of 
 Ejfex, p. 5. j and they immediately let fly at the Ship 
 from the Guns on tlie Eaft Baftion, and after from all 
 the Guns they can bring to bear upon her : It is very 
 feldom that a Ship will venture their Shot, becaufe 
 they can reach her all the Way to the Hope, and round 
 the Hope-Point almoft to Hole-Haven ; tho' 'tis " 
 faid, this has been done once or twice : but the Oc- 
 cafion mufl: be very extraordinary to make a Siiip run 
 the Rifque. As for Ships coming in, they all go by 
 here without any Notice taken of them, unlefs it be 
 to put Waiters on board, if they are not fupply'd be- 
 fore. 
 
 On the 24th of Auguji 1727, a dreadful Fire 
 happen'd here, which burnt down and deftroyed the 
 Church, and the greatefl Part of the Town ; and in 
 1 7 31, an Aftof Parliament palled for rebuilding the 
 Church, as one of the Fifty new ones ; and the Town 
 too, being moftly rebuilt, makes a better Appearance 
 ior the Calamity it underwent. 
 
 The Paffage to and from Grave/end to London is 
 r;Ow made more commodious and fare for Pafi'engers 
 Ll.an before, by KOi of Parliament palled in ij'^b-j, 
 
 for 
 
134* ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 for regulating the Company of Watermen, ^c, be- 
 tween Gravefend and Windfor ; which limits the 
 Number of PafTengers to Forty at the moft, on board 
 the Tilt-boats, and Ten at moft by the Wherries j di- 
 rects the Burden of the faid Boats ; prohibits clofe 
 Decks and Bails nailed down in the Wherries ; pre- 
 fcribes the Times of Departure of the Tilt-boats and 
 Wherries, and the Age of the Watermen navigating 
 the faidBoats,anddire(3:saPunifhmentagainft fuch Wa- 
 termen as wilfully lofe their Tide, or fet the PafTen- 
 gers on Shore two Miles fliort of the Place to which 
 they are bound. And the Rulers of the Watermens 
 Company are thereby obliged to provide Officers at 
 Billinfgate^ and at Gravefend^ who, as near as is 
 poffible. Night and Day, at every Time of High- 
 Water, and firft of Flood, are, at the refpedive 
 Places, to ring publickly a Bell fet up for that Pur- 
 pofe, for Fifteen Minutes, to give Notice to the Tilt- 
 boats and Wherries to put off, and make the beft of 
 their Way, v/ithout lying by, or putting on Shore, 
 being within two Miles of their refpedtive Ports. 
 Which excellent Provifions muft be a great Eafe and 
 Safety to all Perfons who are obliged to ufe this Paf- 
 fage. 
 
 A remarkable Occurrence happening the laft Time 
 I was at Gravefend^ deferves to be mentioned here in 
 Honour to a brave and excellent Englijh Mariner. 
 The Cafe was thus : 
 
 On Saturday^ December i6. 1738, the Ship Jnne 
 and Thomas, Captain Ogi/vie, Commander, outv/ard- 
 bcund for Jfrtca, lying at Gravefend, was, by the 
 boiling over of a Kettle of Pitch, fet on Fire : to ex- 
 tinguilh which, the Crew at firft made an Attempt ; 
 but finding the Flames increafe upon them, they were 
 all upon the Point of leaving her, for Fear of 100 Bar- 
 rels of Gunpowder which were on board : when hap- 
 pily the Mate, returning from a Vifit he had been 
 making to a Brother Officer of a neighbouring Ship, 
 
 Itopp'd 
 
Kent. Great Britain. i^f 
 
 ftopp'd tlieir Defign, and with a noble Refolution, 
 cutting the Boats clear of the Ship, told them they 
 had no Means left to efcape periftiing, either by Fire 
 or Water, but by heartily joining their Endeavours to 
 extinguifli the Flames. When they found themfelves 
 in fo bad a Dilemma, they unanimoufly attempted it,, 
 and after fome time providentially got it under, to the 
 no fmall Joy of the Town of Gravefend^ as well as- 
 of all the Ships near tliem, who were in the utmoft 
 Confternation for Fear of the Gunpowder, and every 
 Moment in Expeftation of tlie terrible Blow. 
 
 W e fee nothing remarkable on the Road hereabouts 
 but Gad's-Hill, a noted Place for robbing of Seamen, 
 after they have received their Pay at Chatham. Here 
 it was that a famous Robbery Avas committed in or 
 about the Year 1676, which deferves to be men- 
 tioned : It was about Four o' Clock in the Morning, 
 when a Gentleman was robb'd by one Nicks on a Bay 
 Mare, juft on the Declivity of the Hill, on the Well 
 Side. Nicks came away to Gravefend^ and, as he 
 faid, was ftopp'd by the Difficulty of getting the Boat, 
 near an Hour, which w^as a great Difcouragement to 
 him ; but he made the beft Ufe of it, as a kind of Bait 
 to his Horfe : from thence he rode crofs the County of 
 EJJex^ to Chelmsford : here he ftopp'd about half an 
 Hour to refrefh his Horfe, and gave him fome Balls ; 
 from thence to Braintree^ Backings JVethersjield ; 
 then over the Downs to Cambridge^ and from thence, 
 keeping ftill the crofs Roads, he went by Fenny 
 Stratford to Godmanchejler and Huntingdon^ where he 
 baited himfclf and his Mare about an Hour ; and, as 
 he faid himfelf, flept about half an Hour ; then, hold- 
 ing on tlie North Road, and keeping a full Gallop 
 moft of the Way, he came to York the fame After- 
 noon ; put off his Boots and riding Cloaths, and went 
 drefs'd as if he had been an Inhabitant of the Place, to 
 the Bowlirg-green, where, among other Gentlemen, 
 was tlie Lord-Mayor of the City. He, Tingling out 
 
1^6 TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 his Lordfhip, ftudied to do fomething particular, that 
 the Mayor might remember him by ; and then talces 
 Occafion to afk his Lordfliip what o' Clock it was, 
 who pulling out his Watch, told him the Hour, which 
 was a Quarter before, or a Qiiarter after Eisht at 
 Night. ^ 
 
 Upon a Profecution for this Robbery, the whole 
 Merit of the Gafe turn'd upon this fmgle Point ; the 
 Perfon robb'd fwore to the Man, to the Place, and 
 to the Time, in which the Fa^t was committed ; but 
 iV/rii, proving by the Lord-Mayor, that he was as 
 far oft as Jork/hire at that Time, the Jury acquitted 
 him on a bare Suppofition, tloat it was impoilible the 
 Man could be at two Places fo remote, on one and the 
 fame Day. 
 
 On the Road from Gad-s-HUl to Rochejier, are 
 very large Cherry- Orchards, efpecially on the Rrght- 
 hand of the Road: thefe Cherries are 'fent up to Lon- 
 don in Hoys, and were formerly a great Branch of 
 Trade to the Land-owners of this Country ; but 
 of late Years there has been fuch Plenty of this Fruit, 
 that they have fcarce paid for gathering and fending 
 to London, which has occafioned many of the Owners 
 Oft thefe Orchards to deftroy them. 
 
 From Gad's- Hi II we come to Rochejler-Bridge, 
 the longefl, higheft, and the ftrongeft built of all the 
 Bridges in England, except that of London. Some 
 indeed fay, the Bridge of Newcojile upon Tyne ex- 
 ceeds all' the Bridges in England for Strength ; but 
 then it is neither fo high, nor fo long, as this at Ro- 
 chefter. Jt is fuppoited by eleven Arches, and was- 
 built by Sir Robert Knowles in the Reign of Henry IV. 
 and railed in with Iron at the Charge of Archbifhop 
 iVarham. 
 
 Tiie River Medvjay, at this Place, is very broad 
 and rapid, foaming moft violently. Rochejler was' 
 tile Roman City Durobrivis, and was very flrong, be- 
 ing wall'd abQut and ditch'd. Many Anti<]uities iiave 
 
 been 
 
Kent; Great BRitAiN. 137 
 
 been found hereabouts. This City ftands in an An- 
 gle of the River, and feems to have been of a fquare 
 Form, the Watling-Jireet running dlreftly thro' it. 
 Mod of the Walls IHll remain ; and a large Piece of 
 the Roman Wall, made of Rubble-ftone laid Hoping 
 fide-v/ays, is to be feen near that Angle below the 
 Bridge, enconipafled by tlie River with Roman Brick% 
 in feveral Places. 
 
 Rochejler, Stroud, and Chatham, are three_^ di- 
 ftinil Places, but in a manner contiguous. 
 , Rochejier has fufFer'd very much by Fire and War. 
 It confifts chiefly of a large ill-built broad Street. 
 Stroud is feparated from it only by a Bridge, and may 
 alone pafs for a fmall City, and is well-built, but has 
 nothing very remarkable in it. 
 
 The Caftle, of Rochejier was erected by King Wil- 
 liam. I. out of one Angle of the River. The Walls 
 of the great Tower now left, are four Yards thick. 
 The Body of the Cathedral is of the original Stru- 
 cture before the Conqueft, and repair'd by BifhopGww- 
 dulph, an Architect, who likewife built the Caftle. 
 The great Tower is call'd Gundulph's Tower. The 
 chalky Cliff under the Caftle Wall, next the River, 
 is a romantick Sight. The Rapidity of the Stream 
 waftes it away, and then huge Trails of the Wall 
 fall down. On the North Side of the_ North-weft 
 Tower of the Church is Gundulph''s Effigies. The- 
 Front of the Church is of the old Work, but a nev/ 
 Window put in the Middle. The Eaftern.Gate of 
 the City was pull'd down- not very long ago, the 
 Stones. of which were of a Roman Cut. The Town- 
 houfe and Charity- fchool are two of the beft pub- 
 lick Buildings in Rochejier and Stroud, except the- 
 Churches. 
 
 But Chatham being the chief Arfenal of the Royal 
 Navy of Great Britain, is the moft confiderable of 
 the Kind in the World. The private Buildings, as 
 the Houfes of the Sea-Officers, Directors, Infpecl-- 
 
 ors. 
 
13 B -ATOVRfM Kent. 
 
 ors, and Workmen belonging to the Royal Navy, 
 are well-built, and many of them ftately. But the 
 publick Edifices there are indeed, like the Ships 
 themfelves, furprifingly large, and in their feveral 
 Kmds beautiful. The Ware-houfes, or rather Streets 
 of Ware-houfes, and Store-houfes for laying up the 
 Ijfaval Treafure, are the largeft in Dimenfion, and 
 the moft in Number, that are any-where to be feen 
 in the World. The Rope-walks for making Cables, 
 and the Forges for Anchors and other Iron-work, 
 bear a Proportion to the reft ; as alfo the Wet-dock, 
 Canals, and Ditches, for keeping Mafts and Yards 
 of the greateft Size, where they lie funk in the Wa- 
 ter to preferve them : The Boat-yard, Rope-yards, 
 the Anchor-yard, Forges, Founderies, all not eafy 
 to be defcribed. 
 
 We come next to the Stores themfelves, for which 
 all this Provifion is made ; and firft, to begin v/ith 
 the Ships that are laid up there : The Sails, the Rig- 
 ging, the Ammunition, Guns, great and fmall Shot, 
 fmall Arms, Swords, Cutlalfes, Half-pikes, with 
 all the other Furniture bejonging to the Ships that 
 ride at their Moorings in the River Medway^ Powder 
 excepted, which is generally carried to particular Ma- 
 gazines, to avoid Difafter, all thefe Stores are re- 
 ported in feparate Buildings and Store-houfes appro- 
 priated for the Furniture of every Ship, and may be 
 taken out on the moft emergent Occafion, without 
 Confufion, 
 
 Befides thefe, are W are-houfes for laying up the 
 Furniture, and Stores for Ships in general, and for 
 the furnlfhing other Ships to be built, or for repair- 
 ing and fupplying the Ships already there, as Occa-^ 
 fion may require. 
 
 For this Purpofe there are feparate and refpeftive 
 Magazines of Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Flax, Tow, Refm, 
 Oil, Tallow ; alfo of Sail-cloth, Canvas, Cables, 
 ftanding and running Rigging, ready fitted, and Cor- 
 dage 
 
Kent. Great Britain. J39 
 
 dage not fitted ; with all Kinds of Ship- chandlery 
 Keceffaries, fuch as Blocks, Tackles, Runners, i^c. 
 with the Cooks, Boatfwains, and Gunners Stores, 
 and alfo Anchors of all Sizes, Grapnells, Chains, 
 Bolts, and Spikes, wrought and unwrought Iron, 
 Caft-Iron Work, fuch as Pots, Caldrons, Fur- 
 naces, ^c. alfo Boats, fpare Mafts and Yards, with 
 a great Quantity of Lead and Nails, and other Ne- 
 celfaries, too many to be enumerated. 
 
 To obferve thefe Things deliberately, one would 
 almoft wonder what Ships they were, and where they 
 fhould be found, which could either for Building or 
 Repairing, Fitting or Refitting, call for fuch a Quan- 
 tity of all thefe Things ; but when, on the other 
 hand, one fees the Ships, and confiders their Dimcn- 
 fions, and confequently the Dimenfions of all Things 
 which belong to them ; how large,- how ftrong every 
 thing muft be ; how much of the Materials mult go to 
 the making every thing proportionable to the Oc- 
 ' cafion, the Wonder would change its Profpea, and 
 one would be as much amazed to think how anci 
 where they fhould be fupplyM. 
 
 The particular Government of thefe Yards is very 
 remarkable, the Commiflioners, Clerks, Accomp- 
 j tants, ^c. within Doors ; the Store-keepers, Yard- 
 keepers, Dock-keepers, Watchmen, and all other 
 Officers without Doors, with the Subordination of 
 all Officers one to another refpeftively, as their De- 
 grees and Offices require. The Watchmen are fet 
 duly every Night at ftated and certain Places within 
 the feveral Yards, with every one a Bell over his 
 Head, which they ring or toll every Hour, giving 
 fo many Strokes as the Hour reckons ; and then one 
 taking it from another through every Part of the 
 Yard, and of all the Yards, makes the Watch be 
 perform'd in a very exaft and regular manner. In 
 the River is a Guard-boat, which, like the Main- 
 guard in a Garifon, rows the Grand Rounds at cer^ 
 
HO ./^ TOUR thr(^' Kent. 
 
 tain Times, by every Ship in the River, to fee that 
 the 1 eople on board are at their Poft • If the Man 
 placed to look out in each Ship, does not call. Who 
 comes there? the Guard-boat boards it immediatelv, 
 to examine into the Defeft of Duty. 
 
 The Expedition that has been fometimes ufed here- 
 in fitting out Men of War, is fcarce credible i for 
 the Workmen told us. That the Royal Sovereign, a 
 lirlt Kate of io6 Guns, was riding at her Moorings 
 intirely unrigg'd, and nothing but her three Mafts 
 Itanding, as is ufual when a Ship is laid up ; and that 
 Ihe was completely rigg'd, all her Mafts up, her Yards 
 put to her Sails bent, Anchors and Cables on board, 
 and the Ship failed down to Black- Stakes in Three 
 -Uays, Sir Cloudejly Shovell being then her Captain. 
 
 1 do not vouch the Thing; but when I confider, 
 lirlt, that every thing lay ready in her Store-houfes, 
 and wanted nothing but to be brought out and car- 
 ried on Board ; a Thoufand or Fifteen hundred Men 
 to be employ 'd in it, and more, if they were wanted ; 
 and every Man knowing his Bufinefs perfedly well 5 
 Boats, Carriages, Pullies, Tackles, Cranes, and Hulk 
 all ready \ I do not know but it might be done in one 
 Day, if it was tried. Certain it is, the Dexterity of 
 the Englijh Sailors in thofe things is not to be 
 matched by any in the World. 
 
 The Building-yards, Docks, Timber-yard, Deal- 
 yard, Maft-yard, Gun-yard, Rope-walks, and all 
 the other Yards and Places fet apart for the Works 
 belonging to the Navy, are like a well-order'd City ; 
 and tlio' you fee the whole Place, as it were, in the 
 utmoft Hurry, yet you fee no Confufion ; every Man 
 knows his own Bufinefs ; the Mafter-builders appoint 
 the Working or Converting, as they call it, of every 
 Piece of Timber, and give to the other Head- work- 
 men or Foremen, their Moulds for the fquaring and 
 cutting out of every Piece, and placing it in its pro- 
 per Byrth (fo tliey call it) in the Ship that is in 
 
 i>\\\. 
 
 LUli \\ 
 
Kent. Great BritaIk. ^41 
 
 Building ; and every Hand is bufy in purfuing thofe 
 Directions, and fo in all the other Works. 
 
 Rochejier has a Market on Fridays^ and it hath, by 
 Grant from King Henry I. two annual Fairs, vi%. 
 May the 19th, and Nov. the 30th. The Ground on 
 that Side of the Town next the River is very low 
 and marfhv, being overflowed by every high Tide, 
 which renders the Situation unpleafant, and the Air 
 unwholfomej from the Vapours which arife from thefe 
 fait Marfnes. 
 
 It may not be amifs in tliis Place to take Notice, 
 that there is in the River Medivay^ at Rochejier., and 
 in feveral of its Creeks and Branches within the Ju- 
 rifdi£l:ion of the City, an Oyfter-Fifliery, which is 
 free to every one who has ferved Seven Years Appren- 
 ticeftiip to any Fifherman or Dredger, who is free of 
 the faid Fiftiery ; and the Mayor and Citizens of Ro- 
 chejier hold a Court, commonly call'd Jn Admiralty- 
 Court., once a Year, or oftener, when Occafions have 
 required it, for the regulating of the faid Fifhery, 
 and to prevent Abufes committed in it. In thefe 
 Courts they appoint, from Time to Time, when 
 Oyfters fhall and fhall not be dredged and taken,which 
 they call Opening and Shutting the Grounds ; after 
 the Quantity each Dredgerman fhall take in a Day, 
 which is ufually called Setting the Stint. They have 
 a Power to go on board, and enforce thefe Orders ; and 
 when they have found them not duly obferved, or that 
 the Brood or Spat has been taken which fliould have 
 been preferved, they feize and throw into the River 
 and Creeks the Brood, or fuch Oyfters as have ex- 
 ceeded the prefcribed Quantity. 
 
 Perfons ^yho dredge or fifli for Oyfters; not being 
 Free of the Fiftiery, are called Cable-hangers^ and 
 are prefented and puniftied by the Court. E^very li- 
 cenfed Dredger pays fix Shillings and Eight-penCe 
 yearly to the Support of the Courts. But feveral licen- 
 tious Perfons having, in Procefs of Time, contefted 
 
 the 
 
142 ^ T O U R thr(> Kent. 
 
 the Authority of this Court, and great Inconveniences 
 arifing from it, to the endangering the Fifliery, and to 
 the Deftrudtion of all good Order and Rule, the Cor- 
 poration and Free Dredgernien apply'd to Parliament, 
 and an A£l pafTed, Anno 1729, eftabliftiing the Jurif- 
 didtionof the City of Rochejhr, and enforcing the Au- 
 thority of the faid Courts ; and fmce that another ASt 
 explaining and fupplying Defeats ; fo that at prefent 
 thisFiftiery is in a flourifhing Condition, and all the fair 
 Dealers in this Commodity find tlieir Account in it. 
 
 It is about fixteen or eighteen Miles from Rochejler 
 Bridge to Sheernefs Fort by Water, on the River 
 Medway ; of this it is about fourteen Miles to Black- 
 Jiakes J the Chanel is fo deep all the Way, the Banks 
 fo foft, and the Reaches of the River fo fhort, that, 
 in a Word, 'tis the fafeft and beft Harbour in the 
 World ; and we faw two Ships of eighty Guns, each 
 riding afloat at Low-water, wijhin Mufquet-fhot of 
 Rochejler Bridge. The Ships ride as in a Mill-pond, 
 or a Wet-dock, except that being moored at the 
 Chains, they fwing up and down with the Tide ; but 
 as there is Room enough, they are moored in fuch 
 manner, that they cannot fwing foul of one another j 
 nor did I ever hear of any Accident that befel any of 
 tlie King's Ships here by Storms and Weather , ex- 
 cept in that dreadful Tempeft in 1703, when the 
 Royal Catharine was driven on Shore, and, receiving 
 fome Dam2ge, funk ; and the Ship alfo being old, 
 could not be weigh'd again. 
 
 There are Two Caftles on the Shore of this River, 
 the one at Upnor, where is a good Platform of 
 Guns, and which guards Two Reaches ef the Ri- 
 ver, and ie fuppofed to defend all the Ships which ride 
 above, between that and the Bridge ; alfo on the 
 other Shore is Gillingham Caftle, form'd for the fame 
 Purpofe, and well furnifli'd with Guns which com- 
 mand the River ; befides which there is a Fort or 
 Platform of Guns at a Place call'd Th( Swampy and 
 
 another 
 
Kent. Gr EAT Britain. 143 
 
 ftnother at Cockham Wood. But thefe are principally- 
 added fince the Time that the Dutch made that me- 
 morable Attempt upon the Royal Navy in tliis Paver 
 on the 22d of June^ in the Year 1667 ; for at that 
 Time all v^^as left unguarded, and there were but Four 
 Guns that could be ufed at Upnor^ iand fcarce fo many 
 at Gillingham, tlie Carriages being rotten and broken ; 
 and, in a Word, every thing concurring to invite 
 the Enemy. There were about Twelve Guns at the 
 Ifle of Shepeyy where now Sheernefs Fort is built ; but 
 the Dutch foon difmounted moft of them ; after 
 which they went boldly up to Black-Jiakes with their 
 whole Squadron ; and after that Seven of their bjggeft 
 Men of War went up as high as Upnor^ where they 
 did what Mifchief they could, and went away again, 
 carrying off the Royal Charles^ a Firft-rate Ship of 
 ioo Guns, amd burning the London^ and feveral 
 others, befides damaging moft of tlie Ships that were 
 within their Reach j and, all things confider'd, it 
 was a Wonder, that tliey went away without ruining 
 all the reft of the Navy that was in that River. 
 
 This Alarm gave England fuch a Senfe of the Con- 
 fequence of the River Medway^ and of the Docks, 
 and Yards at Chatham^ and of tlie Danger the Royal 
 Navy lay expofed to there, that all thefe Doors, which 
 were open then, are lock'd up and fufEciently barr'd 
 fmce ; and 'tis not now in the Power of any Nation, 
 unlefs they were Mafters at Land as well as Sea, to 
 give us fuch another Affront ; for befides all thefe Ca- 
 Itles, Lines of Guns, and Platforms on each Side 
 the River Medway^ as we go up, there is now a 
 Royal Fort built at the Point of the Ifle of Shefey^ 
 call'd Sheernefs^ which guards that Entrance into the 
 River. This is a regular Fortification, and has fuch 
 a Line of heavy Cannon commanding the Mouth of 
 the River, that no Fleet of Men of War could at- 
 tempt to pafs by, as the Dutch did, without hazarding 
 being torn to pieces. I took a View, while I was in 
 
 thefe 
 
•144^ rOVR tbro' Kent. 
 
 thefe Parts, of Cobham-hall, fix Miles from Chatham^ 
 the Seat of the Earl of Darnley, a handfome Brick- 
 houfe, remarkable for the excellent Marble Chunney- 
 pieces in moft of the Rooms. 
 
 At Raynham Church near Rochejier^ we faw fe- 
 veral Monuments of the Family of the Earl of Tha- 
 net ; and the Steeple is reckoned a Sea-mark, 
 
 SHEERNESS is not only a Fortrefs, but a good 
 Town with feveral Streets in it, and Inhabitants of 
 feveral Sorts, but chiefly fuch whofe Bufinefs oWiges 
 them to refide here. The Officers of the Ordnance 
 have here an Office ; they being often obliged to be 
 at this Place many Days together, efpecially in Time 
 of War, when the Rendezvous of the Fleet is at the 
 Nore, to fee to the furnifliing every Ship with mi- 
 litary Stores, as Need requires, and to cheque the 
 Officers of the Ships in their Demands of thofe Stores, 
 and the like. 
 
 Here is alfo a Yard for building Ships, with a 
 Dock, intended chiefly for repairing Ships that may 
 meet with any fudden Accident. But then it is to 
 cbferved, that thofe are generally but for Fifth and 
 Sixth-rate Ships, fmall Frigates, Yachts, and fuch 
 Vefl'els ; tho' once, when I was there, I faw one upon 
 the Stocks of Sixty-four Guns. This Yard is a late 
 Thing alfo, and built many Years fince the Fort. 
 
 Shepey-Ip is fuppofed to be fo called from its being 
 one of the firft Places in England, where Sheep were 
 kept, or from its affording a great Plenty of thofe 
 ufeful Animals. This Ifland is encompafl~ed with the 
 mix'd Waters of the Thames^ and the Medway on 
 the Weft ; with the Swalle on the South, and with 
 the main Ocean on the North and Eaft. It hath 
 great Plenty of good Corn, but wants Wood. It 
 is about twenty-one Miles in Compafs, ' 
 
 Here are feveral Tumuli in tl>e marfliy Parts all 
 over the Ifland, fome of which the Inhabitants call 
 Cot ere Is; thefe are fuppofed to have been caft up in 
 
 Memory 
 
Kent. GreatBritain. 145' 
 
 Memory of feme of the Danijh Leaders, who were 
 buried here ; for the Danes have often made this 
 Ifland the Scene of their Ravages and Phmder. 
 
 There was antiently a Bridge and Caufeway, be- 
 tween this IJIe and Harty : this was called Threm- 
 bethe-brtdge, as afterwards the Ferry was calJed Tre- 
 mod-Ferry : The common Way into this Ifland, from 
 tlie main Land of Kent^ is by King^s- Ferry, where a 
 long Cable of about a hundred and forty Fathom, 
 being faftened at each End acrofs die Water, ferves 
 to get over the Boat by hand. 
 
 On the main Side of the Ferry is a fmall Stone- 
 building, which will hold Nine or Ten Perfons : this 
 is faid to have been erected by one Geor-g£ Fox, who 
 flaying once there a long while in the Cold, wait- 
 ing for the Ferry-boat, and being much afFe<Slcd with 
 it, he built this Place to fhelter others from the like 
 Inconvenience. For the Maintenance of this Ferry, 
 and keeping up the Highway leading to it, thro' the 
 Marfties for above a Mile in length, the Land Oc- 
 cupiers tax themfelves one Vtnm per Acre for frefli 
 Marfli-land, and one Penny for every Ten Acres of 
 fait M?.rfh-land per Ann. This Tax, together with 
 fome Lands belonging to the Ferry, has from time 
 to time kept the faid Ferry and Caufeway, with a 
 Wall againft the Sea, in good Repair ; as alfo the 
 Boats, enables, and a Houfe for the Ferry-keeper, 
 who is obliged to tow all Travellers over free, except 
 on four Days yearly, viz. Palm-monday, Whit-mon^ 
 day, St. James's-day and Michaelmas, when a Horfe- 
 man pays Two-pence, and a Footman one Penny : 
 But on Sundays, or after Eight o'Clock at Night, 
 there is no Paflage gratis j fo that at fuch Tim,es, 
 the Ferry-keeper will demand Six-pence of every 
 Horfeman, and Two-pence of every Footman ; and 
 in thefe Cafes the Land Occupiers pay as well as 
 Strangers. The Keeper of this Ferry is allowed 
 514 /. per Ann. by the Land Occupiers, befide what he 
 
 Vol. L H makes 
 
146 ^ T O U R thro" Kent. 
 
 makes In carrying over Paffengers in the Night-time, 
 and on Sundays : And to this he has another Perqui- 
 fite added ; which is to dredge for Oyfters within the 
 Compals of his Ferry-loop^ which extends one Tow's 
 Length, (as they term it) i. e, fixty Fathoms on each 
 Side of the Caftle. . m , • 
 
 In the upper Groimds of this IQand, is great 
 Plenty of good Corn ; but equal Scarcity of 
 frefh Water, moft of tlieir Springs being brack ifli ; 
 tho' within a few Years paft, a Well was funk fo 
 deep as to lie below the Bed of the Sea, which has 
 furnifti'd the Garifon at -.She^rnefs v/ith frefh Waa- 
 ler • but before this the People -of the Garifon had 
 a Yacht, which was employ'd in bringing frefti Water 
 
 from Deptford. , , • -n, 
 
 A great Number of Marine Plants grow in 
 the fait Marfties, which occafions the Curious 
 in Botany to vifit this Kand frequently in the midft 
 of Summer, when the Plants are in their Per- 
 
 fe£li0n. ^ , -rn r CT . 
 
 At the South-weft Point of the Ifle of bhepey, 
 
 where the Eaft Swale parts from the Weft, and pailcs 
 
 on as above, ^ueenborough ; fo called by King 
 
 Edward III. .in Honour of his Qnctn Pbthppa 
 
 Daughter to William Earl of Hamault and Holland. 
 
 Here^was a Caftle ereaed by King Edward, as_a 
 
 Defence of the Mouth of the River Mcdway. In 
 
 th" Building of this Caftie that Prince was affifted 
 
 by JVllliam of Wukham, who was then Surveyor of 
 
 the Kin<y's Works, and afterwards made Biftiop 
 
 of Wlnchefter. This Caftie was afterwards repaired 
 
 in the Year 1536, by King VIII. who at the 
 
 fame time built others at Deal^ maimer, h<:. for . the 
 
 Defence of the Sea-coafts. The Governors ^iccn- 
 
 horou^h Caftle were formerly honou-red with the 
 
 Title of Conftable ; and by the Lift of them, it 
 
 appears, that many of them were Men of great 
 
 Confideration. ' — ,. 
 
 This 
 
Kent. G R E A T B R I T A I N. I'47 
 
 *i his Caftle was ftanding in the Year 1629 ; for 
 'M.x.yohnjion^ in his little Boole, intituled, IterPlan- 
 tarum Inveji'tgctionis ergo fufceptian^ tells us, That 
 he faw there a noble large Dining-room, or Hall, 
 round the Top of which were placed the Arms of the 
 Nobility and Gentry of Kent \ and, in the Middle, 
 ■ thofc of Queen Elizabeth, xnth the following Latin 
 Verfes under, in great Letters : 
 
 Lilia virgincuni peSJus regale leonis. 
 
 Significant ; vivas vlrgo, regafq; ho : 
 XJmbra placet vultns, vultus quia ?nentis Imago ; 
 Mentis imago placet^ mens quia plena Dca : 
 . Virgo Deum vita^ rcgina imltata regendo^ 
 
 Viva mihi vivi fiat imago Dei. 
 ■ ^ui Leo de fuda eji, et Flos tie J'ejfe^ Uoiies 
 Protegat et fiores, Elizabetha, tuos. 
 A.D. 1593. 
 
 -In E'liglijh thus : 
 Lilies the Lion's Virgin Breaft explain ; 
 Then live r Virgin, and a Lion reign. 
 Pictures are pleailng; for the Mind they fhe\V'-s 
 And in the Mind the Deity we view. 
 May (he, who God in Life and Empire fhows, 
 To me th' eternal Deity difclofe ! 
 May Jeje's Flow'r, and Judah''?, Lion, deign 
 Thy Fiow'rsand Lions to protect, O Qi_ieen ! 
 J. D. 1593. 
 
 •At prefent there are not any Remainfor thisCadle 
 be feen ; the Ground v/here "it flood is moated 
 found ; and there is a WeH about 40 Fathom deep, 
 ftill remaining. By the feveral Ordinances \v\\\d\ 
 were made by King Ediuard IIL relating to Naval 
 Affairs, it appears this Place vs?as then very fahious ; 
 but at prefent it is a miferable dirtv Fifl^unq;-toxvn ; 
 yet has a Maj-^r, Aldermen, and fciidsTvTO Rur^ 
 
 H 2 ■ - o-viiis 
 
148 ^ T O U R thro" Kent. 
 
 geffes to Parliament ; altho' the chief Traders of this 
 Town feem to be Ale-houfe-kecpers, and Oyfter- 
 catchers, apd their Voters at an Eledtion for Parlia- 
 ment-men are the principal Branch of their fcanda- 
 lous TrafRck. A pernicious Practice ! too much fol- 
 lowed in better Towns, and which may one Day be 
 of fatal Confequence to the Liberties of Britain, 
 
 Here we took Boat, and went up the Eaji Swak^ 
 to Milton^ or Middleton, as formerly called, which 
 lies, as it were, hid among the Creeks j for 'tis al- 
 moft out of Sight as well by Water ashy Land, and 
 yet it is a large Town, has a confiderable Saturday 
 Market, for Corn, Fruit, and other Provifions ; 
 S,nd the Oyfters tajcen in the Grounds about this 
 Town, are the moft famous of any in Kent. This 
 Town is governed by an Officer, who is called by 
 the old Saxon Name Port-reve ; he is chofen an- 
 jiually on St. James's-day, and he fupervifes the 
 Weights and Meafures all over the Hundred of 
 Milton. It had antiently a Royal Palace for the 
 JientiJ}} Kings, 
 
 from hence, keeping the Coaft, and the great 
 Road together, for they are flill within View of one 
 jiiiother, we come to Sittingburn, formerly a Market^ 
 town, but ftill a confiderable Thorough- fare, and 
 full of good Inns. 
 
 Juftby theTown are the Ruins of a Fortification 
 raifed by KingJ/fred, when inPurfuit of the Danes^ 
 Callod JSavord-caJJie. They boaft here much, of one 
 Norwood having eiitertajned King Henry V. on his 
 triumphant p.<iturn from France ; and tho' the 
 Jlntertainrnent was, according to the Times, very 
 elegant, yet the whole Expence of it amounted to 
 jio more than 9 -f. and 9 d, 
 
 Vrom Sitting-burn y/e czme to FeverJJj(i?f2 which 
 js a large fair Tov/n, having one long and broad 
 ptreet : it has a very good Market-houfe, where the 
 lyjfirket is kept on IV(dnffdays and Saturclffys ; and 
 
 ^h?rQ 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 145^ 
 
 there are Two annual Fairs in this Town, of Ten 
 Days each; viz. on February the 14th, and on 
 Auguji the ift. This Town is well peopled, and 
 in a very flourifliing State, being in the Neighbour- 
 hood of one of the heft Parts of Kdnt^ and" having 
 a very commodious Creek to bring in, or carry out 
 their Goods ; but many of the Inhabitants have 
 carried on the Smuggling Trade for Years, for which 
 this Creek lies very convenient. Brandy^ and often 
 French IVines, are fold here at very low Rates, 
 efpecially at fuch times as the Smugglers have been 
 apprehenfive of Difcovery 5 to prevent which they 
 have been known to fell their Wines to any Perfons 
 who would venture to purchafe them, for 2 d. per 
 Quart. 
 
 The Fifliermen here have a very good Cuftom • 
 They will admit no one to take out his Free- 
 dom, unlefs he be a married Man. The Trade 
 for Oyfters here with the Dutch is fo large, as to 
 bring in between 2 and 3000/. per Annum ^ read/ 
 Money, from Holland^ for this Commodity only. 
 
 At Feverjham are the Remains of a Monaftery 
 founded by King Stephen, where he was buried with 
 his Family. At prefent nothing is left but two 
 Gate-houfes, of mean Strudure. At the Diflblution, 
 they fay, the CofEn of Lead, which held the Royal 
 Body, was taken up and fold ; but the Corps was 
 tiirown into the Thames, and taken up by fome 
 Filhcrmen. Here, in the Year 903, King Etheljian 
 enabled Laws. 
 
 It was at the Mouth of this Swale, namely, at 
 Shellnefs, fo called from the Abundance of Oyfter- 
 Ihells always lying there, that the Smack in which 
 the late King James II. embarked for his Efcape into, 
 France, ran on Shore, and being boarded by th^' 
 Fiftiermen, the King was taken Prifoner ; and I 
 mufl- mentiw it to the Reproach of the People of 
 Feverjham, whatever the Condud of that unfortunate 
 H 3 Prince 
 
150 ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 Prince had been, that the Fiihermen and Rabble 
 treated him, even after they were told who he was, 
 ■\yith the utmoft Indecency, ufing his Majefty with 
 fuch perfonal Indignity, and giving him fuch oppro- 
 brious and abufive Language, and fearching him in 
 fo rude a manner, that the King himfelf faid, he 
 was never more apprehenfiye of lojing his Life than at 
 that Time. He was aftei^v/ard'S carried by them up to 
 the Town J v.'here he was not much better treated 
 for fome time, till fome neighbouring Gentlemen of 
 the County came in, wh.o underftood their Duty 
 better, by whom he was preferved from farther Vio- 
 lence, till Coaches and a Guard came from London^ 
 by the Prince of Omnge's. Order, to condu£t him 
 with Safety and Freedom to London ; where he was 
 much better received. 
 
 V/hile I wss near this Town fome Years before, a 
 terrible Accident happened ; namely, the blowing up 
 of a Powder-mill, which {lood upon the River, clofe, 
 to the Town ; the Blaftiftiattcr'd the whole Town, 
 broke the Windows, blew down Chimneys, and 
 Gable-ends ; and feveral People v/cre killed at the 
 Powder- houfe itfelf, tho' not any, as I remember, 
 m the Town. But what was moft remarkable in is 
 iill, v/as, that the eldtft Son of the Mafter of the 
 Powder-mill, a Youth of about Fifteen Years of 
 Ao-e, who was not in the Mill, or near it, when it 
 blev/ up, but in a Boat upon tbe.Ris^erj rowing crofs 
 jbr his Diverfion, v-^as kiHed by a Piece of' the Ma- 
 terials of the Mill, which v/ere blown up into the 
 Air, and fell 'down upon him in the Boat. 
 
 After r have mentioned the Tombs of King 
 Stephen and hisQiiecn, in Fever/ham, I knownothing 
 elfe thisTown is remarkable for, except the moft no- 
 torious Smuggling Trade, v/hich I have mentioned, 
 ^nd which is carried on partly by the Affiftance of 
 the Dutch^ in their 0\fter-boats; nay, even the 
 Owlino- Trade, or clandeftine Exporting of Wool, 
 
Kent. Great Britain. ifi 
 
 feems removed from Romney Marjh, to this Coaft ; 
 and a great deal ofit has been carried on between the 
 Mouth of the Eq/i- Swale and the North Foreland. 
 
 From this Eaji-Swale, and particularly from thefe 
 laft Thre2 Towns, ^leeTihorough^ Milton^ and f 
 verjloam, the Fifti-market at h'lUir.fgate is iupphed 
 v/ith feveral Sorts of Fifti ; but particularly with the 
 beft and largeft Oyflers, fuch as foirje call Stewing;, 
 others, MUton Oyfters ; as they are from tdie Ejji^ 
 Side with a fmaller and greater Sort, called JFalWcct, 
 I fhall now crofs the Hills from Milton to Maid- 
 Jions^ on thz/S-AMtr Medway^ near lo Miies duiaiit 
 from Rochcjler to the South-ealt ^ 
 
 Muudjlone is a very anticnt Town : the River 
 Medway^ over which it has a Bridge, is nav Igable iip 
 to it by large Hoys, of 50 cr 60 Tons Burden, 
 Tide flowing quite up to the I'ow'i. In 173'.}, aa 
 A6t pafied for making it further na\ igable, of whicii 
 I fhall take proper Notice, when I come to lpca;< , 
 of the Timber in SiiJJ'cx. 
 
 Here is carried on a Manufaclure of Linen- thix:adj 
 and likev/ife, in the Neighbourhood, are great Plaa- 
 tation'S of Hops, which were fuppoftd to be firil- 
 planted here at the Beginning of the Reformation j 
 which gave Occafion to that old Diftich, 
 
 Hops, Reformation, Bays, and Beer, 
 Came into England all in a Tear. 
 
 Maidjlone is eminent for Plenty of Provifions, for; 
 Richneis of Lands, ami for. the beft Market in tht« 
 County, not excepting either Rochejler or Canicr- 
 hury. It has alfo a handfome Bridge, which, in tiie 
 Opinion .of fome, is inferior only in Length to that 
 ©r Rochejler. 
 
 From this Town, and the neighbouring Parts, 
 London is fnpplied with more Partifiulars than from 
 any fingle Market-town in England; which I men- 
 tion in purfuance of my firft liefolutiou of obferving 
 H 4 hoW 
 
2 f 2 T O U R thro" Kent. 
 
 how every Part of England furniflies fomething to 
 the City of London. 
 
 1. From the JVeald of Kent, which begins but 
 about Six Miles oft, and particularly from that 
 Part which lies this Way, they being the large 
 Ketitifi Bullocks. 
 
 2. From hence are broughti^reat Quantities of the 
 largefb Timber for Supply of the King's Yards at 
 Chathajn, arid often to London ; moft of which is 
 at prefent brought by Land-carriage toMaidJfone. 
 
 3. From the Country adjoining, great Quantities 
 of Corn are brought up to London ; alfo Hops, 
 Apples, and Cherries. 
 
 4. A Kind of Paving Stone, al30ut Eight or Ten 
 Inches fquare, exceeding durable, ufed to pave 
 Court-yards, &c. 
 
 5. Fine white Sanifor the Glafs-houfes, efteemed 
 the beft in England for melting into Flint-glafs, 
 and Looking-glafs Plates ; and for the Stationers 
 Ufe alfo, vulgarly called Writing-fand. 
 
 All that Side of the County which I have men- 
 tioned, as it is marftiy and unhealthy, by its Situa- 
 tion among the Waters, is chiefly inhabited by Ship- 
 Kuilders, Fifhermen, Seafaring-men, andHufband- 
 jnen, and fuch as depend upon them j and very few 
 Families of Note are found among them. But as 
 foon as w€ come down Boxley-h'tli from Rochejier, 
 or HoUrngbourn-hill from Milton, to the well- 
 watered Plain on the Banks of the Medway, we 
 find the Country every-where befpangled with po- 
 pulous Villages, and delicious Seats of the Nobility 
 and Gentry ; and efpecially on the North-fide of the 
 River, beginning at Aylesford on the Medivay, the 
 Seat of the Earl of that Name, and looking Eaft 
 towa rds the Sea, to Eajlwell nzzx JJhford, the Seat 
 of the Earl of Wincheljea . 
 
 Among thefe are the antient Families of Fane, 
 Colcpeter, Deerham^ Honywood^ f Fatten, Roberts, 
 Haiesy &c. This 
 
Kent, Great Britain. 153 
 
 This genteel Neighbourhood makes Alaidjlone 
 very agreeable Place to live in ; for liere is what is 
 not often found, namely, a Town of very great 
 Bufinefs and Trade, and yet full of Gentry, and 
 good Company. 
 
 There is not much Manufacturing in this County : 
 what is left is chiefly at Canterbury^ and in^this 
 Town of Maid/lone, and its Neighbourhood. The 
 Manufacture of this Town is principally Linen- 
 thread, as I have faid, which they make to pretty 
 good Perfection, tho' not extraordinary fine. At 
 Cranbrook^Tenterden^ Goudhurji, and other Villages 
 in the Neighbourhood of this Place, was once a 
 confiderable Cloathing-trade carried on ; and the 
 " Teamen of Kent, of whom fo much has been famed, 
 and who inhabited thefe Parts, were generally 
 much enriched by it ; but that Trade is now quite 
 decay'd, and fearce Ten Clothiers left in all the 
 County. 
 
 The Farmers, and Defcendents of thefe Clothiers, 
 upon the Elections of Members for the County,, 
 ftiew themfelves ftill there ; for there are ordinarily 
 14 or 1500 Freeholders brought from this Side of the 
 County, v/ho for the Plainnefs of their Appearance 
 are called the Grey Ccats of Kent ; but are fo con- 
 fiderable, that whoever they vote for, is fure to carry 
 it ; and therefore the Gentlemen are very careful to 
 preferve their Intereft among them. 
 
 This Town of Maidflone is a Peculiar of the 
 Archbilhop of Canterbury, who is the proper in- 
 cumbent, and puts in a Curate to officiate for him. 
 The Archbifhop has a Palace here, which is eftcemM 
 very antient, to which there is a Chapel belonging. 
 The Architecture \sGothick, but good of the Kind ; 
 and fome Parts of it have been retired after tlie mo- 
 dern Manner. Maidjionc is a Roman Station, named 
 Vagniacis or Madviach^ frorrt. the BritiJJ) Word 
 Madwag tlie Meadow's on the River Vaga, which 
 H 5 are 
 
1-54 r O U R thro" Kent. 
 
 arc here bcvjiifu]. The Arch icpifcopal Palace was 
 founded by John i'prd, and finiflied by Simon Ipp,. 
 The College or Hofpital was ereded by Archbifhop 
 'Boniface^ and a Chaiitry by Thomas Anindel^ now 
 the P'ree-fchool.. Mout the Year 1720, feveral 
 Canoes , were dug up, made, of hollowed Trees, in 
 the Marfhes of the River Medway above Matdfione-^ 
 one of Vv?hich is ufed for a Boat to this Day. In the 
 Hands of Dr. DoddTsX. Addmgton^ near Mailings in 
 the Year 1720, a Britijh Coin of Amber was found, 
 in t-he Foundation of a Stone Wall. The convex 
 Side was pl^iih .; on the Concave was a BrhiJhMoxic.., 
 rude enough. The. Affizcs are generally held here, 
 and always the Coun,ty Elections j and it is governed 
 by a Mayor, and Tweh/^ Jurats. 
 
 Charing, not far off, w,a§ the antient DuroUnuniy 
 fituated upon a Spring of the River Len. Here the 
 Arehbifliops of Canterbury haJ a caftellated Palace, 
 given tbpni by fome of the fifft tof^ Kings, of 
 which there.are large Ruins. 
 
 In my Way to Maidftone^ on a former Journey, 
 I . faw Marnvorth i^^'^XQ., a pretty Fabric^, belong- 
 ing to the Earl of Wijlraorland \ and on a rifing 
 Ground, within a Mile, of ^y^'/i'i/'W, viewed an 
 Antiquity, vulgarly called Ketts-cotty-houfe, which 
 are three great, Stones piled on each other, and 
 deemed the Tombs of Kentigern and Horbus, two 
 Dani/b Princes, flain in Ba.ttk, and there bury'd. 
 
 In profecuting, my Journey from Maidjlone to 
 Canterbury, I cannct lielp mentioning Lenham, a 
 Town about 17 Miles diftant from that City ; in re- 
 lation- to which the R,t. Rev, Continuator of Camden 
 records the following extraordinary Circumjftance. 
 
 " At Ls^^Jxim, fays he, is a thing exceeding 
 ** remarkable, mentioned on the Tomb of Robert 
 •* Thompfan^, E% ip the Church there, who wa^ 
 *' Grandchild to that tndy religious Matron, Mary 
 *' HoneyuMod^Wl^coi Robert Hgneywood, of Charing^ 
 
Kent. Great Britain. iff 
 
 *' Efq; She had at her Deceafe, lawfully defcended 
 *' from her, 367 Children; 16 of her ov/n Body; 
 *' 1 14 Grandchildren ; 228 in the tliird Generatioii ; 
 " and 9 in the fourth. Her Renown livcth with her- 
 " Pofterity : her Body lieth in this Church, and 
 " her Monument may be feen in Marks-hall^ m. 
 Ejfcx^ where Ihe died."' 
 
 From hence I pu-rfaed rny Journey to Canterbury^ 
 which all Writers agree was called, by the Brims^ 
 Kent, and is thtDuroverno of the Romans ; of which 
 Town, and its Antiquities, fo much has been faidy 
 and fo accurately, that I need do no more than 
 mention it briefly. However, I obferve here, 
 
 1. Thzt Augiijline, the A/Ionk, the firft Chriflian 
 Preacher that came h-oxw,- Rme into this Iflar:d, 
 fettled' in this Place : But that he was the firft that 
 preached Chriftianity in the Ifland (as fome have 
 fug2;efted) is a Miftake ; as the famous Conference 
 betvveen him and the Monks oi B anchor in IFales^ 
 fufHciently teftify. 
 
 2. That Seven-' BlOiops -of ■■C'7«/t-'r//«;7, includiag 
 t\rut' Jugujfine:, lie buried ii^re in one Vault. 
 
 3. Th7itTho?nas a B'lxket, Archbifliop of this See, .. 
 infulted the King his- Sovereign in an iinfufterable 
 Manner ; infomuch- that in the Reign of Hefiry 11. 
 he was iiere murdered by the Connivant^e, as i'ome 
 fay, of the King ; and they fhew what they call his 
 Blood upon the Pavement at thfe Day. 
 
 4. That they fhev/ theStone-fteps afcending to hi« 
 Shrine, (he being afterwards- canonized) v/orn away 
 to a Slope, by the Knees of the Pilgrims', who 
 vifited it. 
 
 5. That the Bodies of King HcnrylY. and of 
 Edivard the Black Prince, are buried here, and tlig ., 
 nmgnificent Effigies of the latter, very curioufly 
 
 Kes on his Tomb or Monument, riere is a 
 p ■-.■!cl, originally de^gn d' for theCclebratioH 
 
 oj r.*;ii»-.'s for the Soul -of- Kmg Hinvy IV . 
 
 H 6 6, That 
 
156 ^ T O U R thro Kent. 
 
 6. That the immenfe Wealth offered by Votaries 
 and Pilgrims, for feveral Ages, to the Shrine of 
 Becket^ was fuch, that the famous Erafmns^ who 
 faw it, fays of it thus : " All fhone, fparkled, 
 
 glittered with rare and very large Jewels ; and 
 ** even in the whole Church appeared a Profufenefs 
 
 above that of Kings." In fliort. Gold was one of 
 the mcaneft Treafures of his Shrine : and at the 
 Diffoliition, as Dugdale obferves, the Plate and 
 Jewels filled Two great Chefts, each whereof re- 
 quired Eight Men to carry out of the Church. 
 And Camden fays, the Name of Chriji, to whom it 
 was dedicated, was alnioil laid afide for that of 
 St. Thomas. 
 
 7. That all this immenfe Treafure, with the Lands 
 and Pv£V'tnues of the whole Monaftery, were feized 
 upon by King //^'wry VIII. at the general SuppreiEon 
 e-f Pvcli-^ious Houfes, except fuch as are annexed to 
 the Deanery and Chapter, and to the Revenue of 
 ti:c Aichhillicprick, which are not very conhderable. 
 There is an old Pi(£lure of Beckst's Martyrdom, and 
 aiTantient Painting upon the Wall, of the Siege of 
 yeri/faitvjj, in the Habits of our Anceftors., 
 
 8. Here are alfo to be feen the Monuments of 
 Cardinal Courhcello, Cardinal Pole, Archbifiiop 
 Chichky ; Bp. PecJchotn's, carved in Wood upwards 
 of 450 Years ago ; Bilhop Wlmrton., the Duke of 
 Clarence., Archbifhop Langton; with many others 
 of lefs Account. 
 
 The Cathedral is a large and noble Pile of Build- 
 ing : very curious Remnants of painted Glafs are 
 Uill to be feen in the Windows. It is intirely 
 vaulted with Stone,, and of a very pretty Model ; 
 but much too high for its Breadth, as all Gothick 
 Buildings were. The Metropolitan Chair is of grey 
 Marble, {landing behind the High Altar. The 
 Cloiflers are pretty good, and near them a very 
 large Chapel, called the Scnnm-houfe, wainfcotted 
 
 with 
 
Kent. Great Britain. if7 
 
 with Irljh Oak. Under it is a large Proteftant 
 French Church, given firft by Queen Ehzabeth to 
 the Walloons, who fled hither from the PerfecaUon 
 of the Duke d'Alva. The Number of thefe Re- 
 fugees has been fmce very much mcreafed by French 
 Proteftants obliged to leave their native Country, 
 thro' the Cruelty of Louis XIV. ^ , _ , , . 
 
 The Clofe where the Houfes of the Prebendaries 
 ftand, is very fpacious and fair, and a great many 
 very good Houfes are built in it, and fome with good 
 
 Gardens. ■ „ , n 
 
 Here are many Remains of Roman and Saxon 
 Buildings. The City is ftrongly walled about, and 
 many Towers at due Intervals, a deep Ditch clofe 
 underneath, and a great Rampart of Earth.within. 
 The xMaterials of the Walls are chiefly P lint. _ 
 
 The Caftle was built in the Reign of King 
 miliaml. of the fame Form, and the Walls of the 
 fame Thicknefs, with that of Rochejier Dungeon- 
 hill, a very high Mount, feems to have been Part of 
 the old Caftle. Oppofite to it, without the Walls, 
 is an Hill, feeming to have been raifed by the Danes, 
 when they befiec^ed the City. The Top of Dun- 
 geon-hill i equal to the Top of the Caftle, and ex- 
 hibits a fine Profped over the City and Country. 
 
 Of Auruftine's Mnnafttrv, two Gates remain next 
 the City; and both very ftitely. Perhaps one be- 
 longed to King Ethelberth Palace, the other to the 
 Monafterv, which doubclefs was very fplendid ; tor 
 it covers 'a great Compafs of GroAUid, and is fur- 
 rounded with a verv hi^h Wall. There were con- 
 tinual Qiiarrels between the Monks ot Augujine raid 
 of Thomas a Beckei, both very rich, and very con- 
 tentious. 1 T>- f ^ 
 Near this Monafterv is a vaft angular . lece ot a 
 Tower, (befides half of another) about 30 cct high, 
 which has been undermined by digging away a 
 Courfe at Bottom, in order to be thrown down ; 
 
1^8 A TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 hut it happened onif to disjoint itfelf from the Foun- 
 dation, and lodged itfelf in the Ground in the pre- 
 fent inclining State. Thus being equally poifed, it 
 prefents a View of Terror, and forbids a too near 
 Accefs. 
 
 The adjacent Clofe is full of religious Ruins, and 
 in a. Corner of it are the Walls of a Chapel, faid to 
 have been a Chriftian Temple before ' Jugu/fme's 
 Time, and reconfecrated by him to St. Pancras. 
 Near it is a little Room, faid to have been Kino- 
 Ethglhrfs Pagan..Chapel . T'he V u Igar fay-, here are • 
 the Marks of the Devil's Claws. 
 
 Eaftward of this, and farther out of tire City, is 
 St. Martin's Church, faid to be Atiguji'me's firfts'ee, 
 and "the Place whither King EthelberthQn^QY^. ufeid 
 to repair to divine Service. It is built moftly of 
 Brick. In the Middle is a very large old-fafhioned 
 Font, fuppofed to be tha.t v/here"the King was 
 baptized. 
 
 North of the City is a very fmall Remainder of 
 St. Gregory's Chapel, founded probably by Ai-gujUne 
 to the Honour of that Pope, his Patron. ^ 
 
 The City has been much advantaged by the Set- 
 tlement in it of Two or Three thoufaiid French 
 Proteftants, Men, Women, and Children, ovviii;^ 
 to the above-mentioned'Expulfion of the Proteftant^ 
 under Zo?i/V XIV". 
 
 The Employment of thofe Refugees was chief]-/ 
 Bread Silk Weaving^ which has fuitered fever/l 
 Changes and Alterations ; but is ftill carried on here 
 to fome Account. 
 
 But what has added moft to the Advantage ( 
 Canterbury^ is the Hop-grounns'all round the p]ac( 
 to- the Amount of feveral Thoufand Acres, ina. 
 much that Canterbury was,, for fome time, the 
 greateft Pjantation of Hops iirthe whole Ifiand'; bur 
 novf they have a Rival, if ,i®t an Over-matchj ..:.d)out 
 Farnha7ny as i lhall ob/erve in its Place. 
 
 In 
 
 ct 
 
Kent. Great Britain^ if^ 
 
 In January 1738, were found in a Shave belong- 
 ing to the Eftate of. Sir John Hales, who lives in 
 this Neighbourhood, arud within his Manor of Tun- 
 Jiall near ^ittinghourn^. feveral Hundreds of broad 
 Pieces of Gold, which were thought to be con- 
 cealed in the Time of the late Civil Wars by an An- 
 ceftor ol^wjohn. They were found by a. poor 
 Boy, who was rambling in the. Coppice ; and not 
 knowing v/iiat to make of themv was playing with 
 fome of them at a Farmer's? in .the Neighbourhood 
 of Canterbury, and, the Farmer got PofTeffion of 
 them; but not being able to keep the Secret, he 
 refunded 624 of . the Broad-pieces for the Ufe of 
 the Crown : Tho'. Sir John ,laid Claim to. the 
 Whole. 
 
 The Shore from JVhitJldMe^ and the Eajl-Swale, 
 affords nothing remarkable but Sea-marks, andfmall 
 Towns on the Coaft, till we came to MargaU, noted 
 for King William^ frequently Landing here in his 
 Returns from Hollancly and for (hipping a vaft 
 Quantity of Corn for Market, moft, if not 
 
 all of Lt, the Produ6t of the Ifle of Thanet,- in which 
 it ftands. There- ia lately erected .here a Salt-water 
 Bath, which has performed, gi^at Cures in nervous 
 and paralytick Cafes, and in Numbnefs of the Limbs ; 
 and feems every Day to become more and more 
 in Requeft. 
 
 But it may not be unacceptable to tranfcri.be a few 
 Lines from Camden, in Honour to the Induftry of 
 the Inhabitants in this Part of the Ifle of Thanet, 
 which I recommend to the Admiration, , for I doubt 
 it would be too much to fay Imitation, of the reft of 
 Britain, both North and South. It is as follows : 
 
 " Nor muft I here omit the mention of a Thing 
 *^ very much to the Honour of the Inhabitants of 
 *' Thanet, thofe efpecially who live near the Roads 
 
 or Harbours, of Margate^ Ri^infgate, and. Brod- 
 
 Jl^^t" i njimely, that they are exceeding induflrious, 
 
 and. 
 
i6o ./f T O U R thro' Kent. 
 
 *' and are, as it were, amphibious Creatures, and 
 *' get their Living both by Sea and Land : they deal 
 *' in both Elements, are both Fiftiers and Plough- 
 " men, both Hufbandmen and Mariners ; and the 
 " felf-fame Hand that holds the Plough, fteers the 
 " Ship. According to the feveral Seafons, they make 
 " Nets, fifti for Cod, Herring, Mackarel, iJc. go 
 " to Sea themfelves, and export their own Com- 
 *' modities. And thofe very Men alfo dun^ their 
 
 Ground, plough, fow, harrow, reap, inn, be- 
 «♦ ing quick and adive in both Employments j and 
 " fo the Courfe of their Labours runs round. And 
 *« when there happen any Shipwrecks, as there do 
 «' here now and then, (for thofe Shallows and 
 •* Shelves fo much dreaded by Seamen lie ©ver- 
 
 againftit; namely, the Godwin^ tht Brakes, the 
 " Four-foot, the Whitdick, &c.) they are extremely 
 " induftrious to fave the Lading." I fhall only 
 add. That it is highly to the Reputation of thofe 
 People, if they continue to deferve this excellent 
 Charafter ; but I have heard of fome late Inftances, 
 that are not at all to their Honour in this latter 
 Particular. 
 
 At Stanar in the Ifle of Tlanet, the Rutupia of 
 the Romans, is to be feen the Sepulchre of Vortimer^ 
 King of the antient Britons, who having vanquifhed 
 the Saxons in many Battles, and at laft driven them 
 out of the Ifland, ordered, before his Death, that 
 he fhould be buried here, on a fond Conceit that his 
 Ccrpfe would friglu tiiem from landing any more 
 upon this Coaft. Like the great Scipio^ who having 
 fubducd the Carthaginians, oi-dered his Tomb to be 
 turned towards Africa, to fright them from the 
 Coaft of Italy. But the poor Britons foon found the 
 Difference between a King in the Field, and one in 
 the Grave. 
 
 On the North-eaft Point of this Land, is the 
 Promontory, or Head-land, which I have often 
 
 mentioned. 
 
Kent. Great Britain. i6i 
 
 mentioned, called the iV-.r/Z.-i^<^r^W i wh 
 a Line drawn due North to the Nafe in^#^, about 
 Six Miles Ihort of Harwich, makes the Mouth of 
 the River of Thames, and the Port London. As 
 foon as any Veffels pafs this Foreland from London, 
 they are properly faid to be in the open Sea ; if to 
 the North, tliey enter the Ocean ; if to the 
 
 South, the Chanel, as 'tis called, that is, the narrow 
 Seas between England and France ; and all tne 
 Towns or Harbours before we come this -Length 
 whether on the Kentijh or Efex Shore, are called 
 Members of the Port of London. 
 
 From this Point Weftward, the firft Town of 
 ^oto \sRamfg^te, afmallPort; the Inhabitants are 
 mighty fond of having us call it Romans-gate ; pre- 
 tending that the Romans, under Jultus Cafar, made 
 their firft Attempt to land here, and that^ being 
 driven back hy a Storm, he foon returned, and 
 coming on Shore with a good Body of Troops, beat 
 back the Britons, and fortify'd his Camp, juft at the 
 Entrance of the Creek, where the Town now ftaiids ; 
 while others as pofitively aflert, that that great Com- 
 mander firft landed at Deal ; asl fiiall obferve anon. 
 
 Richboromh-cajile is a Mile diftant from Stanar 
 and Sandwich. At the Foot of it runs the River 
 coming from Canterbury. This River firft dH- 
 charged itfelf into the Sea by Ebbesfiete, North of 
 the Roman City Rutupia, now Stanar y till the 
 Sand pouring fo direaiy upon it, obliged the Stream 
 to Aide under the Cliff by Richborough-cafe and 
 fo by Sandwich. The Caftle Is a moft noble Rem- 
 nant of Roman Antiquity. The Walls on Three 
 Sides are pretty intire, and in fome Places ft-ll abo"t 
 2C or 30 Feet high, without any Ditch. The bide 
 next the Sea being upon a kind of Cliff, the Top of 
 the Wall is but level with the Ground. Here, in 
 the latter Times of the Empire, the Legio II. Jug. 
 was quartered. And from the Condition of the 
 
 Walls 
 
t6-2 ^ T O U R thrd Kent. 
 
 Walls it muft have been deftroy'd with great Vio- 
 lence, probably by the Saxons. In the' Way to 
 Sandwich^ upon an Eminence, is the Remainder of 
 an Amphitheatre made of Turf, probably for the 
 Exercife and Diverfion of the. Garifon. Before 
 Sandtvich Gates are two Roman Tumuli^ on one of 
 which ftands a Windmill. And South Sandvjkh., 
 on the Sea-fhore, are Six large and broad Celtic Tu~ 
 mjdli, at equal Diftances. • Tiiis flat Coaft is-fenced 
 againft the Ocean by the Sand-downs. Y torn Sand- 
 wich i^s far as Hythe, the Coaft of France was vifible 
 all the Way as we rode. The Reverend Mr. Levjis 
 has publifhed, within thefe few Years, a curious 
 Hiftory of the Ifle of fhanet^ to which I fhal] refer 
 for feveral Particulars, which deferve the Attention 
 of a Traveller. 
 
 Sandwich, one of the Cinque-ports, lies in the 
 Bottom of a Bay, at the Mouth of the R\vtx Stcur, 
 formerly, a Town of great Repute and Trade. It 
 AecTiy' d m ih& Saxons T\mQ, and was utterly ruined 
 by the Danes. Being raifed again, it had the Mif- 
 fortune to be reduced to Afhes in King John's Reign ; 
 after which it was rebuilt. But in the Reign of Q. 
 Mary, the Mouth of its' Harbour was fo choaked up 
 by a Ship of great Burden, which funk in it, and 
 gave Opportunity to the Sands and Beach fo to fill 
 it up, that it was incurable : the Town of confe- 
 quence fell to Decay, and it is now a very poor 
 Place. 
 
 Sandwich Is noted for Carrots, which are brought 
 to London during the Winter Seafon ; and from 
 hence it is that moft of the Markets are fupplied with 
 thefe Roots, which are efteemed the fweeteft, as 
 they are alfo the largeft which are produced in Eng- 
 land, or perhaps in Europe. ^ 
 
 From this Place alfo the Seedfmen hvXondon are 
 furnilhed with the greateft Quantity of their Seeds: 
 the Land being light, f^tndy, and frefh, is very good 
 
 for 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 
 
 for producing moft Sorts of Sseds, and the Ground 
 being pretty'low, the Seeds do not fo oiten receive 
 laBlMit, as In many other Places. _ T-,vii, 
 
 Not far from hence is ^^.V.^^.-, which givesT,t , 
 of Baron to Earl Cowper. h rom hence I vent to . 
 Deal, called by C^fir Dcla, havmg l^^df 
 far fr^m this Place. It Is the famous ^oad^i Ship- 
 nine, fo well known all over the ^radmg World by 
 ?he%ame of the Do^.s, and where almoft all Ship3 
 which arrive from Foreign Parts ^^j^^/^f 
 from London to Foreign Parts, ar.a pafs the Chanel, 
 pcnerally ftop ; the Homeward-bound, to difpatcli 
 I et?e • fend their Merchants .nd Owners the good 
 New 'of their Arrival, and fet their Pafengers on 
 ShoTe- and the Outward-bound, to, take m frefli 
 ptmo^s, to receive tl^rlaft Orders, Letters and 
 Fircwels from Owners, and Inends, ^^. ^ome 
 times when the Wind prefents fair, Sh.ps ccme m 
 hSe 'ari Tafs thro' at o'nce without -mmg to an 
 Anchor ; for they are not obliged to flop, but for 
 their own Convenience. ^.naprnus 
 The Downs would be a very wild and dangerous 
 Road for Ships, were It not for the Scuth-Foreland 
 a Head of L a'nd forming the Eaft Point o f ^ 
 Shore ; and is called the South its Situation re 
 Las the North- Foreland ; and which breaks tl^ 
 ItoV which would otherwife come rollu.g urf-- 
 the Weft, to the Flats or Bank of Sands wh>eh for 
 Three L^gues together, and at about a League, or 
 tea<rue and half Diftance, run parallel with the 
 ShoTanfare dry at low Water : fo that thefe two 
 break nc all the Forceof the Sea,, on the taft. South 
 and SouVweft, make the D.^n. accounted a very 
 
 '^And'yeton fome particular Winds, and efpecially 
 if they over-blow, the Downs proves fuch a wild 
 Road,^ that Ships are driven from their Anchors and 
 6fteo run on Shore, or are forced on the faid Sands 
 
1 64 ^ T O U R thro' Kent. 
 
 or into Bandwlch-bay, or Ramfgate-pier, in ^reat 
 Diftrefs ; this IS particularly when the Wind Wow 
 hard at South.eaft,or at Eaft4y-north,or E ft-noX 
 eaft, and feme other Points , and terrible Havock has 
 been made in the Downs at fuch times 
 
 n-^r^ ""happy Inftance that can be eiven 
 ternl rf '^l^^^-^' the time oFdS 
 
 i-o^'. Yfnf ^''^'Son the 27th of Nov. 
 
 y"^'-PPZ'"P'^'''^"^-'^'^«^fhatti^erc chanced 
 at that tHTie to be a great Part of the Royal n"v 
 
 bHaidu;;'^ "'^"^^^ ^^^^'^ - - 
 
 pum thro the the Day before, finding the 
 
 Wmdthen blew very hard, and were come to an 
 Anchor at the Gunjili , and had they haTbu one 
 fair Day more, they had been all fafe at the AW 
 or m the R.ver ^.^z^^;, at Black-flakes ' 
 
 thic . '^Kr^^'"^^A^/^^^™^'^°"t 12 Sail, when 
 
 th s terrible Tempeft began, at which time 
 
 niay be faid to have received thegreateft Lofs thaf evi> 
 
 ev/r «r by any Accident whatfo- 
 
 ever The fhort Account of it is as follows • 
 
 I he Northumberland, a Third Rate, carryin2 7a 
 Guns, and 353 Men , thei2.>.^,/,„, a Second Rlt^e 
 carrying 76 Guns, and 386 Men ; t\:, Sterling C a ftl^ 
 a Second Rate carrying 80 Guns, and 400 MenTbu 
 
 Rate of 61^?^^'" T ' '""'^^n. aThird 
 
 Kate, of 64 Guns, having 273 Men on board : thefe 
 
 ""'r f.^'V'^^^^" their'Men, except one Man 
 out of the Mary, and 70 Men out of the Sterling- 
 Lajile who were taken up by Boats from Deal. 
 
 wht wn' v" Merchants Ships, 
 
 which was exceedmg great, not here only, but in 
 almoft all the Ports in the South aad Weft of Eng- 
 land^ and alfo in Ireland, ^ 
 
 The 
 
Kent. Great Britain. i6f 
 
 The Town of Deal carries on feme Foreign 
 TraHe, and is very much improved of late Years, 
 to vv^hich the great Refort of Seamen to it from the 
 Ships in the Downs has not a httle contributed. 
 
 I took aNiew oi Sandouun-caftle, Deal and TVal- 
 mcr-cajlles. 
 
 Sandown-ca/lle is compofed of four Lunetsof very 
 thicic arched Work of Stone, w^ith many Port-holes 
 for great Guns. In the Middle is a great round Tower, 
 with a Ciftern at-top ; and underneath, an arched 
 Cavern Bomb-proof. A Fofs encompafies the Whole, 
 to w^hich is a PalTage over a Draw-bridge. 
 
 Deal-cajile and Walmer-cajlle are, like the former, 
 all built, as I have faid, by K. Henry VIII. to guard 
 ' this Coaft. Between Walmer-cajile and Deal was 
 probably the Spot where Ccefar landed in his firft Ex- 
 pedition, becaufe it is the firft Place where the Shore 
 can be afcended North of Dover ; and exaftly anfwers 
 his affigned Diftance of eight Miles. In his fecond Ex- 
 pedition, with many more Ships, and upon a perfect 
 Knowledge of the Country, he might land -^xtDeal. 
 
 Dover ftands in a moft romantick Situation : it is 
 a great Valley, and the only one about this Coaft, 
 where Water is admitted inwards of the Cliff, which 
 is here very high. The Sea formerly came a good 
 way higher up, and made a large Port. Anchors 
 have been found above the Town. The Rotnan 
 City Dubris was to the South of the River. The 
 TVatlbig- Jlreet enters it as Bigin-gaie, coming very 
 flrait from Canterbury over Barham-do'wn^ where it 
 is very perfe<Sl:. Some of the Walls are left. The 
 Churches are of a very antique Make : that of St. 
 Martin is Collegiate, founded by JFightrcd King 
 of Kent^ and is a venerable Ruin. It was built in 
 Form of a Crofs. Of the Priory, now a Farm- 
 houfe, are large Remains. The Flofpital over- 
 againfl: it is made a Store-houfe. Here the Knights 
 JJpfpitalers or Ternplers lodged, as t^ey came into. 
 
i66 T O U R ^hro' Kent. 
 
 or went out of the Kingdom. The Piers \<fl^kh 
 form the Haven or large Bafon, are coftly and great 
 Works. Above is a Fort with four Baftions of mo- 
 dern Date. The broad Beach, which hes at the 
 Mouth of this great Valley, and was the Harbour 
 in Ctsfar's Time, is very delightful. One long 
 Street here is nam'd Snaregate^ from the moft tre- 
 mendous Rocks of Chalk, which .project dire£lly 
 over the Houfes. 
 
 ■Dover Caftle is very large, and fituated upon a 
 Rock rugged and fteep on every Side ; but towards 
 the Sea it rifes to an extraordinary Height. Tho' of 
 late Years negleded, it was once fo well fortify'd, 
 and of fuch Importance, as to be accounted the Key 
 of England. And William the Conqueror^ when he 
 had an Eye upon the Kingdom, took an Oath of 
 Harold^ that he fhould deliver into his Hands this 
 Caftle with the Well, which is Sixty Fathoms deep, 
 and faid to be the Work of JhVms Cafar. In fhort 
 it was t\\Q ftrongeft old Fortification in the World ; 
 and takes up thirty Acres of Ground. 
 
 In the late War with France., 1500 Prifoners were 
 confined in the great Caftle. The Brafs Gun, call'd 
 ^een Elizabeth'^ Pocket-Pijiol., is a great Curiofi- 
 ty, twenty-two Feet long. It is excellently well 
 wrought, requires Fifteen Pounds of Powder, and 
 carries a Ball Seven Miles. Here are Tvro very old 
 Keys, and a brafs Horn, which feein to be the En- 
 figns of Authority belonging to the Conftable of the 
 Caftle, or Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. One 
 Part of the Fortifications confifts of a circular Work, 
 in which ftands an old Church, faid to have been 
 built by Lucius, the firft Chriftian King in Britain., 
 out of fome of the Roman Ruins ; for there are 
 hugeQiiantities of Roman Brick laid into the Work ; 
 and the Remainder is of Stone, originally cut by the 
 Ro?nans. It is in Form of a Crofs, and has a fquare 
 Tower in the Middle. The Stone Windows are of 
 
 much 
 
Kent. Great Britain. i^/ 
 
 niuch later Date than the Building: but the greateft 
 Curiofity is the Pharos or Roman Watch-tower, 
 ftanding at the Weft-end of the Cliurch. This 
 Building was made ufe of as a Steeple, and had a 
 pleafant Ring of Bells, which Sir George Rooke pro- 
 cur'd to be carried away to Portfmouth. Since when, 
 the Lead which cover'dit, has been taken away by 
 Order of the Officers of Ordnance ; fo that this 
 rare Piece of Architeaure is left expofed to the Sea 
 and Weather. Here was found a Coin of Diocle- 
 fian. The Erpinghams Arms are patch'd up againft 
 one Side of the Pharos ; fo that it feems to have 
 been repair'd in the Days of King Henry V. when 
 the Lord Erpinghayn was Warden of Dover-cajile. 
 
 Upon another Rock over-againft that on which 
 the Caftle is fituated, and almoft as high, are the 
 Remains of an old Watch-tower, now vulgarly 
 called Bredenjlone, otherwife Devil's-drop, from the 
 Strength of the Aiortar. Here the new Conftable 
 of the Caftle is fworn. Under this Place King 
 Henry VIII. built the Mole or Pile called the P/Vr, 
 that Ships might ride therein with great Safety. But 
 tho' it was done with vaft Labour and Expence, 
 by large Beams faftened in the Sea, bound together 
 with Iron, and great Piles of W ood and Stone heap'd 
 tipon all ; yet the Fury of the Sea was foon too 
 hard for the Work, and the Timbers beginning to 
 disjoint, Queen Elizabeth expended great Sums upon 
 it. And feveral Ads have pafled to repair and re- 
 ftore the fame ; which alfo including the Reftora- 
 tion and Prefervation of the Harbour of Rye, I fhall 
 take Notice of both, when I mention that of Rye. 
 
 Dover, the Partus Dubris of the Romans, is oh5 
 of the Cinque Ports, and was formerly bound to 
 fend twenty-one Ships for the Wars. It aff"ords a 
 See to the Suftragan of the Archbifhop of Canter- 
 bury, as often as any fuch is appointed. Moft of the 
 Bufinefs relating to thefe Ports in general is done. 
 
1 68 ^ TO U R thro' Kent. 
 
 and all the Courts kept here. The other Cinque Ports 
 are Hajiings^ Hythe, Romney and Sandwich. Hajl- 
 ings has two Appendages, namely, Winchelfea and 
 Rye., which, as well as Hajiings, are in Su^ex^ and 
 the others in Kent ; they have all great Privileges : 
 their Burgefles are called Barons ; who on the Co- 
 ronations of our Sovereigns, fupport the Canopies , 
 over their Heads, have a Table at the King's Right 
 Hand, the Canopy for their Fee, and enjoy other 
 Privileges. The Lord Warden of thefe P'ive Ports 
 is generally one of the firft Noblemen in the King- 
 dom. 
 
 The Packets for France go ofF here, as alfo thofe 
 for Ojlend, with the Mails for Flanders, and all 
 thofe Ships which carry Freights from New-York to 
 Holland., and from Virginia to Holland, come gene- 
 rally hither, and unlade their Goods, enter them 
 with the Cuftom-houfe Officers, pay the Duties, 
 and then enter them again by Certificate, reload 
 them, and draw back the Duty by Debenture, and 
 fo they go away for Holland. 
 
 As we pafs from Dover to the fmaller Cinque 
 Ports of Hythe, Romney, and Rye, we fee Folkjione, 
 a little Village now, which the Sea has made great 
 Inroads upon j but which formerly made a greater 
 Figure. A copious Spring went thro' the Town, 
 Two Pieces of old Wall , feemingly Roman , 
 hang frightfully over the ClifF. Here are fonie old 
 Guns, one of Iron of a very odd Caft, doubtlefs a? 
 old as the Time of King Henry VIII. Many Ro- 
 man Coins have alfo been found. And here a Nun- 
 nery was built by Eanfivide, Daughter of Eadbald, 
 King of Kent. This Place is now principally of 
 Note for a Multitude of Fifhing-boats belonging 
 to it, which are one Part of the Year employed in 
 catching Mackarel for the City oi London . The 
 Folkjione Men catch them, and the London and 
 Barking Mapkarel-Smacks, of which I have fpoken 
 
 at 
 
Kent. Great Britain. i6p 
 
 at large in EJJ'ex, come down and buy them, and 
 whifk away to Market under fuch a Croud of Sails, 
 that one would wonder they could bear them. About 
 Jldkhaelmas thefe Folkjlone Barks, among others from 
 Shoreharn, Br 'tghthehnjion and Rye^ go away to Yar- 
 tnouth and Leojioff^ on the Coaft of Suffolk and Nor- 
 folk^ and catch Herrings for the Merchants there. 
 It hath been obferved of fome Hills in the Neigh- 
 bourhood of Folkjione^ as the Right Rev. Continu- 
 ator of Camden takes Notice, that they have vifibly 
 funk and grown lower, within the Memory of 
 Man. 
 
 Sandgate Caftle, fituated in the Bottom of Twal 
 Hills, on the Sea-fhore, hath about Sixteen Guns to 
 defend the Fiihing-craft from the Infults of Priva- 
 teers, in Time of War : it hath feveral good Houfes 
 about it, and was built by King Henry VIII. 
 
 After we have pafled this Caftle, we enter upon the 
 Beach. Here are many Springs, which defcending 
 from the higher Ground, fink immediately into tliis 
 Beach, rendering it a little boggy. 
 
 Hythe, one of the Cinque Ports, ftands on the 
 Edge of the lefs Ridge j but the Marfli has inter- 
 cepted it from the Sea. 
 
 Hythe in Saxon fignifies a Port or Station ; but at 
 prefent it hardly anfwers the Name ; for the Sands 
 have fo choaked it up, that the Sea is fhut out from 
 it to a great Diftance. This Town, as alfo fFeJl- 
 Hythe^ from which the Sea retir'd above 200 Years 
 ago, owe their Original to Lemanis, or Limne^ a 
 Roman Port, of which more anon, now a little 
 Village adjoining, which was formerly a very fa- 
 mous Port, before it was fhut up with Sands, thrown 
 in by the Sea, which gave Rife to the two Hytbes 
 before-mentioned, which, in their Turns, have met. 
 with the fame Fate. A particular Providence hap- 
 pened at Hythe ^ April 24. 1739. About Eleven 
 ©'Clock the Steeple of their Church, in which were 
 
 Vol. I. I Six 
 
lyo ^ T O U R thro' Kent 
 
 Six Berts, fell down. About Ten Perfons were pre- 
 fent when it fell, waiting in the Church-porch for 
 the Keys to go up into the Steeple for a View ; but 
 fome Delay being made in bringing them, they hap- 
 pily rec^iv'd no other Damage tJian being terribly 
 frightened. In a Vault under the Church we faw a 
 vaft Heap of human Bones, fome of an extraordi- 
 nary Size, faid to be gathered up after a bloody Bat- 
 tle fought between the Britons and Danes. 
 
 About a Mile diftant from it is Saltwood-Cajile^ 
 a very ftrong Seat of the Archbifliop of Canterbury, 
 The outer Wall has Towers and Battlements, and a 
 deep Ditch. Within, and on one Side, ftands the 
 main Body of the Palace. There are two great and 
 high Towers at the Gate of this, cvtr which are 
 the Arms of Archbifliop Courtney., the Founder, 
 This inner Work has a ftronger and higher Wall, 
 with a broad embattled Parapet at top. _ Within is 
 a Court, but the Lodgings are all demolifti'd. The 
 Floor of the ruinous Chapel is ftrongly vaulted. In 
 the Middle of the Court is a large fquare Well, 
 feemingly Roman. They fay that Anchors have 
 been dug up hereabouts, which makes it likely that 
 the Romans had here an Iron Forge ; and fome will 
 have it, that the Sea came up formerly to it, and 
 ground this Opinion on thefe Anchors found here. 
 
 A little Way further, at the End of the Stane- 
 freet, the Roman Road from Canterbury., is the 
 Port of Lemanh or Z/w«^ mention'd above. At Limne 
 Church, from the Brow of the Hill, may be dif- 
 ccrn'd the ruinous Roman Walls, fituate almoft at 
 the Bottom of the Marfties. A pretty Brook, which 
 rlfes from the Rock, Weft of the Church, runs for 
 fome Space on the Eaft Side of the Wall ; then 
 pafies thro' it, and fo along its lowermoft Edge, 
 by the Farm-houfe at Bottom : here Coins have 
 been found. Once the Sea-bank broke, and ad- 
 mitted the Ocean into all the adjacent Marfties 
 
Kent. Great Britain 171 
 
 The Port is now call'd Shipway^ where the Lor# 
 Warden of the Cinque Ports was formerly fworn, 
 the Courts kept, and all the Pleas relating thereto, 
 till Dover fuperfeded it. The People of Limne had 
 a Horn and Mace, the remaining Enfigns of their 
 Authority. 
 
 Romney is a large fine Village, and like wife a 
 Cinque Port ; it is the chief Town of the Marfli- 
 Grounds,- which were antiently part of the Sea, 
 called Romney Marjh^ and has Old Romney and 
 Lech for its Members. It is feated on a high Hill 
 of Gravel and Sand, and on the Weft Side of it, 
 had a pretty large Harbour guarded againft moft of 
 the Winds, before the Sea retir'd from it. In the 
 Year 1287, when the Town was at its Height, it 
 ^yas divided into Twelve Wards, had Five Pa- 
 rifli Churches, a Priory, and an Hofpital for the 
 Sick. But it has been dwindling till it came to its 
 prefent low Condition, ever fmce the Reign of Ed- 
 ward I. when an Inundation of the Sea deftroy'd 
 Men, Cattle and Houfes, threw down a whole po- 
 pulous Village called Prom-Hill^ and remov'd the 
 Rother^ (in Britljh Yz Odz) which ufed to empty 
 itfelf into the Sea at Romney y out of its Chanel, 
 flopping up its Mouth, and opebing it a nearer Paf- 
 fage into the Sea by Rye j leaving here only a little 
 Bay for Fiftiing-boats. 
 
 From Romney- Mar Jh the Shore extends itfelf a 
 great way into the Sea, and makes that Point of 
 Land called Dengynefs. Juft by the River Rother^ 
 ftands the little Town of Jppledore, which, by Dif- 
 ufe, has loft its Market, and is of no Note now. The 
 Sea formerly came up to it. 
 
 Tenterden, a Mayor Market-town, lies a little to 
 the N. W. of Appledore, near the Weald. It has 
 a very good and high Steeple, which they fay was 
 the Laufe of the Godwin-Sands, which was an Eftate 
 that belonged to Earl Godwin., and was guarded 
 
 I 2 fiom 
 
172 ^ TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 from the Sea by a Wall j but they were fo intent 
 on building the Steeple, that the Wall was neglefted, 
 and the Land overflowed, which they could never 
 afterwards recover. 
 
 JJhford, alfo a Mayor-town, ftands on the great 
 Road, upon the River Stour. It is a pretty well 
 built Market-town. The Church is large, and was 
 formerly Collegiate : they hold Pleas for any thing 
 not exceeding twenty Marks. 
 
 Newenden deferves to be mentioned for what it 
 once was, having been formerly a fine City, which 
 Camden calls Anderida. It was deflrroy'd by the 
 Saxons, but rebuilt in the Reign of Edward I. and 
 called Newenden, as much as to fay, according to 
 Camden's Etymology, a new City in a little Val- 
 ley. It had then an Harbour much frequented ; 
 but it is now a mofl: miferable Village, with a few 
 poor Houfes in it i the beft an Ale-houfe, and the 
 Church is ill-built, and out of Repair. It has a 
 very indifferent Bridge over the Rother, a rapid Ri- 
 ver, which divides at this Place Kent from Suffex, 
 and about Nine Miles ofF empties itfelf into the 
 Harbour of Rye. Roman Coins have been dug up 
 
 here. ^ , , , 
 
 North^weft of Newenden is Cranhrook, a large 
 Market-town, noted for having been one of the firtt 
 Places where the Cloth-manufafture was fet up in 
 England, which is now very much in its Wane 
 here. But here I will conclude my Third Letter \ 
 and am, 
 
 Yours, Sec, 
 
 h E T- 
 
SufTex. Great Britain. 173 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A Description of the County of 
 Sussex, other Parts of Kent, and 
 PartofHA-iiiTs, Surrey, ^c. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 NOW enter the County of Sujfex^ 
 and fliall begin my Letter Vith the 
 Account of Rye. 
 
 It is fituated in the moft Eaftern 
 Part of SuJJex\ upon an Kill, which 
 is encompaffed with Rocks, that are 
 linacceffible on the Sea-fide. There is nothing now 
 but fome Remains of its old Walls to be feen, and 
 the Ditches are almoft filled up. Its Trade is in 
 Hops, Wool, Timber, Kettles, Cannon, Chim- 
 ney-backs, i^c. which are caft at the Iron-works 
 at Bakely, about Four Miles from Rye, on the 
 North-weft, and Breed, about Five Miles diftant 
 South-v/eft. It is a very great Misfortune, that its 
 Harbour has been fo much damaged by the Sea, and 
 negledted j for it is almoft filled up in feveral Places, 
 where it was formerly the deepeft, and moft con- 
 venient. Some confiderable Families, who have 
 Lands near, have taken Advantage of this, to ex- 
 I 3 tend 
 
174 ^ T O U R thrd Suffex. 
 
 tend them further upon thofe Sands, which the Sea 
 in Storms has thrown up againft them j and by 
 digging Ditches, and making Drains, there are now 
 Fields and Meadows, where antiently was nothing 
 but Water. By this means Ships only of a middle 
 Size can come within any convenient Diftance of 
 the Town, whereas formerly the largeft VefTels, 
 and even whole Fleets together, could anchor juft 
 by the Rocks, on which the Town ftands ; and as 
 this Port lies over-againft Dieppe in France^ and that 
 there is no other Port between Port/mouth and Do- 
 ver, which can receive Ships of Burden, not only 
 the Danger of the Sea, but in Time of War, of 
 the Enemy, were efcaped by the Conveniency of 
 this Harbour. But it being by the Means I have 
 mentioned, and by the Inning of the Chanel and 
 wafte Lands, (which prevented the Flux and Re- 
 flux of the Tide) in Danger of being utterly loft, 
 an A£lof Parliament pafTed in 1721, which enads. 
 That no new Walls, Banks, Dams, or Stops, fhall 
 thereafter be ere£led on either Side of the Water, 
 that might flop or alter the Flux or Reflux of the 
 Sea, between the Mouth of the Harbour, bounded 
 by the Camber and CaJile-PoinU^ and New Shutt 
 near Craven Sluice. 
 
 In 1723 another Ad paflTed for completing the 
 Repairs of the Harbour of Dover, and for reftore- 
 ing the Harbour of Rye to its antient Goodnefs, 
 which fl:ill continued to be choak'd up, and almoft 
 ruin'd, by the Shifting of the Beach with6ut, and 
 •Settling of the Sullage within, and fl:opping the 
 Flux of the Tide, which this Adc propofed fhould 
 hive its free Courfe thro' the Scotch-fiat and Craven 
 Sluices, or into fuch other Cut or Chanel as fliculd 
 be found mofl: proper and expedient. 
 
 And in 1724 another KQl pafled for making the 
 laft A61: more eflFedual, fo far as it related to the 
 Harbour of Rye^ in which a Power was given to 
 
 ^ change 
 
SufTex. Great Britain. 17 f 
 
 change the Defign of making a PafTage by the above- 
 named Sluices, and to open a new Cut from the 
 Wtnchelfea Chanel, right out to the Sea. And 
 they actually began, in purfuance of this A£l, to 
 cut a broad and deep Canal, which was to be car- 
 ried to the Sea on the Side of Winchelfea^ for the 
 Ufe of the two Boroughs. But ftill thefe Provifions 
 being found infufficient,another AxSt pafs'd in 1737-8, 
 for continuing the Term and Powers granted by the 
 former A£ls, for repairing the Harbour of Dover^ 
 and for reftoring that of Rye to its antient Goodnefs, 
 to which I muft refer the Reader. 
 
 The Houfes of Rye are well-enough built, and of 
 Brick, tho' generally old-faftiion'd ; but there are 
 fome very neat ones of a modern Tafle. There is 
 a fmall Settlement of French Refugees in this Town, 
 nioftly Fifhermen ; they have a Minifter of their 
 own, who is paid by the Archbiftiop of Canterbury, 
 The Church is handfome and large j but there are fo 
 many Diflenters in the Town, and fo few of the 
 Eftablifh'd Church, that they have wall'd ofF, and 
 converted the Weftern Part of it into a Magazine 
 for Planks. But there are two well-built Meeting- 
 houfes, one for the Prefbyterians, and the other for 
 the Quakers. Another Church, which belong'd to a 
 Monaftery now demolifti'd, is alfo turn'd into a kind 
 of Store-houfe for Planks, Hops, and other Mer- 
 chandize. At the North-eafl of Rye are the Re- 
 mains of an old Fort, which commands the Tov/n 
 and Harbour, and ferves for the Town-gaol. 
 
 His late Majefty King George I. on his Return 
 from Hanover^ January 3. 1725-6, was obliged to 
 put in here, after a very dangerous and tempeftuous 
 PaiTage, the Fleet being unable to make Dover j 
 and it was then experienced, what a Benefit it would 
 have been to have had this only confiderable Haven, 
 as it formerly was, between Portfmouth and Dover ^ 
 reftor'd to its priftine flourifhing State ; for his Ma- 
 I 4 jefty 
 
176 ^ T O U R thro' SulTex. 
 
 jefty was unJer great Difficulties to land''there, and 
 the larger Ships v/ere unable to follow him. 
 
 This Town was, as I have faid, one of the Ap- 
 pendages, as Winchelfea was the other, to Hajiings^ 
 as a Cinque-port, and enjoy'd the fame Privileges. 
 
 Old Winchelfea flood upon the Sea-fhore, about 
 Two or Three Miles from the Place where the New 
 ftands. It had formerly a large and fpacious Haf- 
 hom, was a Place of great Trade, and had no lefs 
 than Eighteen Churches in it. But it was intirely 
 deftroyed by the Sea, and that fmall Part Which is 
 not bury'd in the Sands, is now Marfli and Mea- 
 dow-land, To the S. E. of Rye^ and the N. W. 
 of Neiv Winchelfea^ is ftill to be feen, in the Midft 
 of a large Plain, an old Tower, which probably 
 ftood by the Sea. 
 
 NcDu Winchelfea is faid to have been built by King 
 Edward I. partly on a Hill about Two Miles from 
 the Old^ and the like Diftance from Rye^ and partly 
 in a little Valley, where it had an Harbour j but 
 Anno 1250, the latter Part of this met with the fame 
 Fate as the former. It never was comparable to the 
 old Town, having but three Parifh Churches when 
 it Hourifh'd, and now there only remains the Chan- 
 cel of one, which is more than large enough for 
 the Inhabitants. But yet the Town was every- 
 where accommodated with fine ftone arch'd Vaults 
 for flowing of Merchandize, and was laid out with 
 admirable Regularity, the Streets being divided into 
 32 Qi^iarters. Some of the Stone-work of the Three 
 Gates are ftill to be feen. The Sea is now above 
 a Mile diftant from it, the Harbour being choaked 
 up with Sands ; and Grafs grows not only where 
 the Harbour was, but even in the Streets ; and in- 
 deed there are only a few Houfes remaining in the 
 upper Part of the Town. Among the Ruins of the 
 Walls to the S. E. are the Remains of a Caftle, as 
 fome fay \ or of a Monaftery, as others will have it. 
 
 Hajiings 
 
SufTex. Great Britain. 177 
 
 Hajljngs^ is the Chief of the Five Cinque- ports, 
 and with its Two Members above, was obliged to 
 furnifh the King with Twenty Ships for any Naval 
 Fxpedition, in Recompence for the ample Immuni • 
 nities it enjoy'd, as one of the Five Ports. It is 
 about Eight Miles from Winchelfea. It confifts of 
 Two great Streets, with a Parifli Church in each, 
 and has feveral good Houfes j but its Harbour, for- 
 merly fo famous, is now a poor Road for fmall 
 Veflels, having been ruined by the Storms that from 
 time to time have been fo fatal to its neighbouring 
 Ports of Rye and Winchelfea. We faw here the 
 Rums of an ancient Caftle j and about Three Miles 
 off, Bull-hide Haven, where JVilliam the Con- 
 queror is faid to have landed in his Invafion of Eng- 
 land^ tho' fome fay it was at Hajiings, and others 
 at Pevenfey, an Harbour more Weftward, which 
 has hkewife been deftroy'd by the Sea ; but be that 
 as ]t will, it was at Hajlings that he mufter'd his 
 Army, after he had burnt his Ships, being deter- 
 mm'd to conquer or perifh in the Attempt j or 
 rather, as another Author has obferv'd, that he 
 might not be obliged to divide his Army, which 
 muft have been theCafe,if he had preferv'd his Ships; 
 aiid probably, while he made an Advance into the 
 Country, at the Head of part of his Anny, Harold 
 might have ftepp'd in between, and cut oiF thofe 
 who were left to guard the Ships, and then with 
 more Lafe have attack'd, and, perhaps, beat that 
 Part commanded by the Norman himfelf. 
 
 1 he decifive Battle which he fought Anno 1066, 
 with king Harold, was upon a Plain call'd Heath- 
 jield, about Seven Miles from Hajlings, for an Ac- 
 count of which I (hall refer to the Hiftorians. In the 
 Place where Harold'^ Body was found, the Norman 
 inlhtuted an Abbey of Bencdiaine Monks, dedicatino- 
 It to bt Martin ; and from the Fight aforefaid, \t 
 IS called Battle- Abhey ; and foon drew to it, by a 
 I 5 Fair 
 
178 ^ T O U R thro' Suffex. 
 
 Fair held every Sunday and Holiday, fuch a Refort, 
 that it hecame a handfome Town. It ftill retains 
 the Name of Battle, and fome Remains of the Ab- 
 bey are yet to be feen, and make Part of the Houfe 
 of the Lord Vifcount Montacute, a Roman-catho- 
 lick Peer ; of which more in another Place. 
 
 A little beyond HaJIings to Bourn, we ride upon 
 the Sands in a ftrait Line for Eighteen Miles, all upon 
 the Coaft of Sufex, pafling by Pemfey, or Peven- 
 fey Haven afore- mentioned, and the Mouth of 
 the River, which comes from Battle, without fo 
 much as knowing, that there was a River, the 
 Tide being out, and all the Water fmking away 
 in the Sands. This Town of Battle is remarkaWe 
 for little now, but making the fineft Gun-pow- 
 der, and the beft perhaps in Europe. Near Battle 
 they (hew us a Hill with a Beacon upon it, now 
 called Beacon-hill, but was formerly caH'd Standard- 
 hill ; where the Norman fet up his Great Standard 
 6f Defiance, the Day before the decifive Battle with 
 Harold and the Englijh. . 
 
 From the Beginning of Romney-marjh, that is to 
 fay, at Sandgate, or Sandfoot Caftle, near Hythe, to 
 this Place, the Country is a rich fertile Soil, full of 
 feeding Grounds ; and an incredible Number of large 
 Sheep are fed every Year upon them, and fent up 
 to London Market. Thefe Romney-marjh Sheep are 
 counted rather larger than the Leiceprjhtre and 
 Lincolnjhire Sheep, of which fo much is faid elfe- 
 where. 
 
 Befides the vaft Flocks of Sheep, as above, abun- 
 dance of large Bullocks are fed in this Part of the 
 TTountry; and efpecially thofe they call Stall d or 
 Houfe-fed Oxen, from their being kept within the 
 Farmers Sheds or Yards all the latter Seafon, where 
 they are fed for the Winter- market, and generally 
 deemed the largeft Beef in England, 
 
 Li 
 
Kent.. Great Britain. 175^ 
 
 In Romney-marjb^ as in other Parts of England^ 
 are found great Timber- trees, lying at Length under 
 Ground, as black as Ebony, and fit for Ufe, when 
 dried in the Sun. 
 
 From hence it was that, turning North, and tra- 
 verfmg the deep, dirty, but rich Part of thefe Two 
 Counties, my Curiofity led me to fee the great 
 Founderies, or Iron-works, which are in this Coun- 
 ty, and where they are carried on at fuch a pro- 
 digious Expence of Wood, that even in a Country 
 almoft all over-run with Timber, they begin to 
 complain of the great Confumption of it by thofe 
 Furnaces, and the Apprehenfion of leaving the next 
 Age to want Timber for building their Navies. 
 I muft own however, that I conceived that Com- 
 plaint was intirely groundlefs, the Three Counties of 
 Kent^ Sujfex^ and Hampjhire, (all which lie con- 
 tiguous one to another) being an inexhauftible Store- 
 houfe of Timber for this Purpofe. 
 
 After I had been fatigued in paffing this deep and 
 heavy Part of the Country, I thought it would not 
 be foreign to my Defign, if I refrefhed myfelf with 
 a View of Tunhridge-wells^ which were not then 
 above 1 2 Miles out of my Way. 
 
 When I came to the Wells ^ which were Five Miles 
 nearer to me than the Town, fuppofmg me then at 
 Battle^ to the Southward of them, I found a great 
 deal of good Company there ; and particularly 
 made an Obfervation, tliat thofe People who have 
 nothing to do any- where elfe, feem to be thebufieft 
 People at Tunbridge. 
 
 After the Appearance is over at the Wells, (where 
 the Ladies are all in Dejhabile ) and at the Chapel, 
 the Company go home ; and, as if it was another 
 Species of People, or a Colle6i:ion from another 
 Place, you are furprifed to fee the Walks covered 
 with Ladies completely dreffed, and gay to Profu- 
 
i8o ^rOUK thro' Kent. 
 
 fion ; where rich Cloaths, Jewels, and Beauty, 
 dazzle the Eyes from one End of the Range to the 
 other. 
 
 As for Gaming, Sharping, Intriguing, asalfoFops, 
 Be uix, and the like, Tunbridge ufed to be as full of 
 thefe as moft other publick Places ; but the kSt 
 lately paffed againfl: Gaming has, in a great meafure, 
 cured this Evil. Of this AQt I fhall fay more, when 
 I come to Bath. 
 
 The Air here is excellent, and the Provifions of 
 all Sorts very reafonable t particularly they are fup- 
 plied v/ith excellent Fifh, of almoft all Sorts, from 
 Rye., and other Towns on the Sea-coaft ; and I faw a 
 Turbut of near tweniy Pounds Weight fold there for 
 Three Shillings. In the Seafon of Mackarel, they 
 have them here from Hafttngs., within three Hours 
 of their being taken out of the Sea ; and the Differ- 
 ence which that makes in their Goodnefs, I need 
 not mention. 
 
 They have likewife here abundance of Wild- fowl, 
 of the beft Sorts j fuch as Pheafants, Partridges, 
 Woodcocks, Snipes, Qiiails, i^c. particularly they 
 have from the South-downs the Bird called liWheat- 
 ear., or which I think I may call the EngUJh Orto- 
 lan, the moft delicious Tafte for one Mouthful, 
 
 (foi *tis hardly more) that can be imagined ; but 
 thefe are very dear at Tunbridge : they are much 
 cheaper at Seaford, Lewes, and that Side of the 
 Country. 
 
 Tunbridge is fituated upon the little River Tunn, 
 which runs into the Medway hard by. On the 
 Southern Bank of the River are to be feen the Ruins 
 of an old Caftle, built by a natural Son of Richard\, 
 Duke of Normandy, who, as Mr. Camden tells us, 
 exchanged his Lordfhip of Bryony in that Duchy for 
 Tunbridge. The Church is a modern Building ; 
 the Houfes in the Town are moftly ill-built, and the 
 Streets forrily paved. 
 
 The 
 
Kent. Great Britain. i8i 
 
 TheWells are about Four Miles from the Town, 
 and the Rocks about Ten Miles from them, and 
 worth aTraveller'sCuriofity to fee, as they are feveral 
 prodigious Heaps of firm Stone Rocks, tho* fome 
 Miles diftant from the Sea. 
 
 The Buildings at the Wells have much the Ad- 
 vantage of thofe in Tunhridge^ and may be faid to 
 conftitute a large and populous Town themfelves. 
 There is a Church, or rather Chapel of Eafe, 
 which is very neat. This new Town, as I 
 may call it, ftands in a Bottom between Two 
 Hills, one of which is called Mount Sioti^ and the 
 other Mount Ephraim, which are generally covered 
 with good Houfes, fine Gardens, and Fruit-trees. 
 The Wells might be more properly called Spelhurjf 
 Weils ; for the Water rifes in a Parifti of that Name. 
 The Well which contains them is well-paved, like 
 a Ciftern, and furrounded with a low Wall, with a 
 Pair of Stairs to go dov.'n. The Company walk 
 upon the Two above-named Hills, after they have 
 drank the Waters, and divert themfelves with Bowls, 
 Dancing, or other Exercifes, as the Weather will 
 permit, and the Phyficiansprefcribe. Near the Well 
 is a long Gallery, paved and covered over, wherein 
 to walk in bad Weather, and while they are taking 
 the Waters, and where likewife the Band of Mufick 
 have place. There are alfo Rooms to drink Choco- 
 late or CofFee, and to play at Cards, ^c. likewife a 
 Hall to dance in. Not far off the Well is a Market 
 well flored with Provifions of all Sorts. 
 
 A very eminent Phyfician is of Opinion, that 
 the Waters of Bath^ Tunbridge, Chilteriham^ (or 
 Scarborough, which partake of the fame Qualities) 
 and Br'iJioL make the general Kinds of mofl of 
 the various Mineral Waters on the Globe ; and 
 that he therefore who underftands thefe, cannot 
 be much at a Lofs to determine theVirtues and Effi- 
 cacy 
 
i82 TOUR thro' Kent. 
 
 cacy of any new Kind. And as this learned Gentle- 
 man has favoured me with his Opinion of thefe 
 feveral Waters, I fhall communicate the fame in 
 their refpeftive Places. 
 
 And, firft, this is what he fays of the Nature, 
 Efficacy and Qualities of thefe of Tunhridge. 
 
 " Tunhridge Waters, fays he, are nothing but an 
 " Impregnation of Rain, or compreffed Cloud- 
 " waters in fome of the Eminencies of the neisih- 
 " bouring Country. And indeed all Hills, and 
 ** confpicuous Elevations, are mere hollow Nefts of 
 " fome Minerals. Iron and Sulphur are the moft 
 " common and univerfal Minerals ; and almoft all 
 " Kinds of Stone fit for making Fences or Edifices, 
 *' h9.ve in their Compofition one or both of them. 
 ** All the Varieties of hard, black, dark or greyifh 
 ** Stones, abound with ferrugineous Particles ; and 
 *' Iron is fo neceffary, efpecially in Countries be- 
 " tween the Tropicks and the Poles, for Hufbandry, 
 *' that there is fcarce a Mile fquare within this Com- 
 " pafs, where it may not be found with its im- 
 *' pregnated Waters. This is demonftrable by the 
 A£tion of the Loadftone on moft Minerals, the 
 ** Magnet itfelf feeming to be fcarce any thino- but 
 ** a purer Clod of Iron : and pure poliflicd Iron, 
 ** we know, with very fimple Management, be- 
 ** comes highly magnetick. Hence we account for 
 the Frequency of chalybeat Mineral Waters, of 
 " fome Degree of Strength or other, fo readily to be 
 " found between the Poles and Tropicks. And this 
 is a bountiful Provifion of Nature to thofe colder 
 " Climkes, where animal Food, and fermented 
 *' Liquors, are fo neceffary for the Support, Com- 
 " fort, and greater Proportion of animal Force 
 *' required in them, for their Defence from the 
 " Swarming of ravenous Animals, and for hunting 
 " animal Food, where the Vegetable is neither fo 
 " proper, nutritive, nor abounding, as in thefe 
 
 ** kindlier 
 
Kent. Great Britain. 183 
 
 " kindlier Climates between the Troplcks to- 
 « wards each Side of (the Equator. Mineral 
 " Chalybeat Waters brace the Solids, which animal 
 " Food, and fermented Liquors, in any Plenty, 
 " are apt to relax; and wind up the Springs of 
 « animal Motion, to keep the Blood fluid, which 
 « the juft mentioned Indigencies are difpofed to 
 *' thicken. Soft Stone, Marl, alkalious Clay, and 
 « all Kinds of bituminous Earths, have a larger 
 " Quantity of Sulphur in them i for Sulphur, Oil, 
 " and Bitumen, always leave Earth brittle, fpongy, 
 « and alkalious (Alkalies being only an harder 
 " earthy Sponge) ; and when the watry Impregna- 
 " tionsmeet, they naturally produce by Fermentation 
 " fome Degree of Heat in the Mixture. There is 
 " in Nature, as this learned Gentleman thinks, but 
 *' one kind of Salt, which is Nitre ; and that the 
 ** Variety arifes from a Mixture of Sulphur, Earth, 
 " or Iron, in different Proportions combined in 
 " their Compofition. Nitre however, and Sea- 
 " fait, have their principal Efficacy from the pre- 
 dominant Principle in their Texture and thus 
 " Tunbridge Waters are only a finer Solution of blue 
 " Vitriol, or natural Salt of Steel, or Rain-waters» 
 " inimitable by Art in fuch falutary Effects as 
 " Nature always produces. For Example : Tho' 
 ♦* Art may imitate, in precious Stones, all the Va- 
 ■ ** rieties of Colours, Reflexions, Refradlions, and 
 " Emiffions of Light ; yet there is always fome 
 *' one peculiar Property, as of Hardnefs, Weight, 
 " or Water, which difcovers the Sophifl:ication. 
 " In like manner, all the Wines on the Globe may 
 *' be fo imitated, that neither Eye, nor Palate, nor 
 " the Perception of their EfFecfts on Animal Bo- 
 *< (^ies, can difcover the Fiftion ; and this without 
 ** one Drop of the Juice of the Grape, from the 
 faccharine Quality only of almoft all Fruits, Seeds, 
 
 ** or 
 
 X 
 
i84 ^rOVKt^ra' Rent. 
 
 or Herbs : yet by analyfing them in fome proper 
 Menltruum, the Cheat may be found out. Thus 
 we may imitate all the feveral Mineral Waters on 
 the Earth, and pretty nearly conciliate all their 
 general or grolTer falutary Virtues on difeafed Ani- 
 mals : yet there is an unaccountable Something 
 m the Tafte, Lightnefs on the Stomach, Chear- 
 fulnefs and Alacrity they give, which all our 
 Skill can never beftow. The Principle of In- 
 dividuation, the Size of tlieir laft and leaft Par- 
 ticles, the Proportion of the feveral Parts of the 
 Compofition to the watry Menftruum, and the 
 due Time of their Impregnation, are and ever 
 will be unknown to us ; as will confequently the 
 Degree required to wind up, ftrengthen and con- 
 trad the relaxed Solids of difeafed human Bodies, 
 to_ fuch a Height, that they may be enabled to 
 grmd, diflblve, and thin the concreted Juices, 
 as thefe aaive, ftrong, and invigorating Waters 
 of Tunbridge ufually do : for in all robuft Con- 
 ftitutions but partially depraved, in the cold 
 chronical Diftempers of fuch Habits, in nervous 
 Diforders, and low Spirits, hi weak Digedions, 
 and grofs Habits, they are extj-emely fuccefsfui, 
 efpecially in the hotter Seafons of the Year." 
 Thus far this learned Gentleman. 
 
 During the time I was at Tunbridge formerly, I 
 made an Excurfion to Knowl-houfe ^ about Seven 
 Miles from Tunbridge^ and One from Sevenoak, be- 
 longmg to the Duke of Dorfet : it is fituated in the 
 Middle of a Park, and at that time was an antient 
 Stone Fabrick ; but had nothing more remarkable in 
 it, than fome excellent Pidlures. 
 
 I left Tunbridge, and came to LeweSj through the 
 deepeft, dirtieft, but in manyrefpeas the richeft, 
 and moft profitable Country in all that Part of 
 England, 
 
 The 
 
Suffex. Great Britain. iSf 
 
 The Timber I faw here was prodigious, as well 
 for Size as Plenty, and feemed in fome Places fufFered 
 to grow, only becaufe it was fo far off of any Na- 
 vigation, that it was Aot worth carrying away. In 
 dry Summers, indeed, a great deal is carried away 
 to Maidjione, and other Places on the Medway ; 
 and fometimes I have feen one Tree on a Carriage, 
 which they call there a Tug^ drawn by 22 Oxen ; 
 and even then 'tis carried fo little a Way, (being 
 thrown down, and left for other Tugs to take up, 
 and carry on) that fometimes 'tis Two or Three 
 Years before it gets to Chatham ; for if once the Rains 
 begin, it ftirs no more that Year, and fometimes a 
 whole Summer is not dry enough to make the Roads 
 palTable. 
 
 And here I fhall obferve, according to my Pro- 
 mife, p. 151. That in the Year 1739-40, an A(ft 
 pafled, intituled. An ASl to revive^ explain and amend 
 an A61 made in the i6th and iph Tears of the Reign 
 of his lateMajeJiy K. Charles II. intituled. An A£i for 
 making theRiver of yiedvf^Lj navigable, inthe Counties 
 of Kent and Suflex : And which, when completed, 
 muft be of very great Ufe to the Publick, as well as 
 to the Counties of Kent and SufJ'ex in particular. 
 
 The Preamble to this Aft will fet this Matter in 
 a proper Light, and it is to this EfFe£t ; That the 
 above-mentioned A6t of Parliament of the i6th and 
 17 th of Charles II. was never yet carried into Exe- 
 cution ; altho' the making the faid River navigable 
 was likely to be of great Utility to the Publick, by 
 reafon of great Quantities of Timber growing on 
 the Wealds of Kent and Suffex, which is allowed to 
 be the beft in the Kingdom, for the Ufe of the 
 Royal Navy, and which now, thro' the Badnefs of 
 the Roads in thofe Parts, cannot be convey'd to any 
 Market but at a large Expence. 
 
 That therefore the prefent Undertakers, bsing 
 defirous to begin, carry on and complete the Navi- 
 gation 
 
1 86 ^ TOUR thro SufTex. 
 
 gation of fuch Part of the antient River Medway. 
 and Streams falling into it, as run ixomFor eft-row in 
 Sujex, to Ma id/tone in Kent^ this A<St incorporates 
 them for that Purpofe, by the Name of The Com- 
 pany of Proprietors of the Navigation cf the River 
 Medway. 
 
 We muft refer to the A£l itfelf for f^irther Parti- 
 culars, and fhall only obferve. That when this 
 Work is completed, it will be of inconceivable Ad- 
 vantage to the Publick ; not only for the excellent 
 Timber which it will be a Means of conveying to 
 proper Markets, but for the eafy and fpeedy Carriage 
 of Iron, Ordnance, Balls, and other Materials of 
 War forged in or near the faid River, which at fome 
 times of the Year cannot be brought thro' the Wealds 
 oftheTwo Counties; and for the Carnage of Wood » 
 Corn, Grain, Hay, Hops, Wooll, Leather, and all 
 manner of Provifions, as alfo of Coals, Lime, Stone 
 Wares, and all other Neceflaries and Commodities, 
 to the great Improvement of Trade and Commerce. 
 
 A few Miles North- weft of Tunbridge lies Seven- 
 oak^ fo called from Seven large Oaks that grew near 
 the Place. It is a Market- town, governed by a 
 Warden and Affiftants ; but is noted for nothing 
 more than being a great Thorough-fare Town. It 
 has a good Hofpital for maintaining and teaching 
 poor Children, ere^ed by Sir William Sevenoak^ 
 Lord Mayor of London^ who was a Foundling, and 
 took his Name from the Town. 
 
 Lewes is a pleafant Town, large, well-built, agree- 
 ably fituated in the Middle of an open Champain 
 Country, and on the Edge of the South- downs, the 
 moft delightful of their Kind in the Nation ; it lies 
 on the Bank of a little wholfome frcfh River, 
 within 12 Miles of the Sea, and was formerly in- 
 compafled with a Wallj but there are few Re- 
 mains of it now to be feen. But what contributes 
 to the Advantage of this Town is, that both it and 
 
Suffex. Great Britain. 187 
 
 the Country adjacent, are full of Gentlemen of good 
 Families and Fortunes ; of which the Pelhams muft 
 be named with the firft, whofe Chief is his Grace 
 the Duke of Newcaftle. Here are alfo the antient 
 Families of Gage, Shelly, &c. formerly Roman- 
 catholicks, but now Proteftants, with many others. 
 Lewes has Five Churches in it. Near it is an old 
 demolifli'd Caftle, in the Neighbourhood of which 
 was fought that bloody Battle between King 
 Henry III. and his Barons ; the Event of which 
 conftrained the King to accept of hard Conditions of 
 Peace, and to give his Son as an Hoftage for Per- 
 formance. 
 
 I ought not to forget, that Newhaven in this 
 Neighbourhood was formerly noted for its fafe and 
 good Harbour for Ships of confiderable Burden ; 
 but for want of a Provifion for maintaining the 
 Timber Piers, which it had for Time immemorial, 
 it was quite negleiled,. and the Harbour choaked up 
 with Sand and Beach, and the Piers were rotten and 
 decay'd. To remedy thefe Evils, an hSt pafled, 
 jinno 1 7 31, for Repairing and Keeping in Repair the 
 faid Piers and Harbour. And when brought to 
 Elfeft, not only Lewes, but the adjacent Parts, as well 
 as the whole Kingdom, will be the better for it. 
 
 From Lewes, following ftill the Range of the 
 South-Downs, Weft, we ride in View of the Sea, 
 and on a fine Carpet Ground, for about 12 Miles to 
 Brighthehnjlon, a poor Fiftaing-town, old-built, 
 and on the very Shore of the Sea. Hence again, as 
 I mentioned at Folkjione and Dover, the Fifhermen, 
 having large Barks, go away to Yarmouth, on the 
 Coaft of Norfolk, to the Fifliing Fair there, and hire 
 themfelves out for the Seafon to catch Herrings for 
 the Merchants ; and they tell us, that thefe make a 
 very good Bufmefs of it. 
 
 The Sea is very unkind to Brtghthelmjion, having 
 by its continual Encroaclunents, fo gained upon 
 
 the 
 
1 8 8 ^ T O U R thro' SufTex. 
 
 the Town, that in a little time more the Inhabitants 
 may reafonably expedl: it will eat away the whole 
 Place, above loo Houfes having been devoured by 
 the Water in a few Years paft. 
 
 From hence, ftill keeping the Coaft on the Left, 
 we come to Shoreham, a Sea-faring Town, chiefly 
 inhabited by Ship-carpenters, Ship-chandlers, and 
 all the feveral Trades depending upon the Building 
 and Fitting up of Ships, which is their chief Bufinefs. 
 They are indeed juftly noted for good Sailors, and 
 for building neat and ftout Sea-boats, which yet, in 
 Strength and Duration, do not come up to thofe of 
 Yarmouth^ Ipfwich, and the North. 
 
 TheBuilders of Ships feem to have fettled here chiefly 
 becaufe of the exceeding Qiiantity and Cheapnefs of 
 Timber in the Country behind them ; being the 
 fame wooded Country I mentioned above, which 
 ftill continues thro' this County and the next. The 
 River this Town ftands upon, tho' not navigable for 
 large Veflels, yet ferves to bring down this large 
 Timber in Floats from Bramber, Steyning, and the 
 Country adjacent ; which is, in a manner, all co- 
 vered over with Timber. 
 
 Here in the Compafsof about Six Miles are Three 
 Borough Towns, fending Members to Parliament, 
 (viz.) Shoreham, Bramber, and Steyning. Shoreham 
 and Steyning are pretty little Market-towns ; but 
 Bramber., after I have mentioned the Ruins of an 
 old Caftle, hardly deferves the Name of a Town, 
 having not above 20 Families in it, and of them but 
 few above afking Alms, as you ride by. The chief 
 Houfe in the Town, when I was there, was a Pub- 
 lick-houfe, the Landlord whereof boafted, that upon 
 an Election, juft then over, he had made 300 /. of 
 one Pipe of Canary. 
 
 This is not the only Town in this County, where 
 the Elections have been fcandaloufly mercenary, in- 
 fomuch that it has been faid, there was in one King's 
 
 Reiga 
 
Suffex. Great Britain. 189 
 
 Reign more Money fpent at Eleftions than all the 
 Lands in the Pariflies were worth, at 20 Years 
 Purchafe. I fhall name in particular but one more, 
 and that is JVinchelfea, which is rather the Skeleton 
 of an antient City, than a real Town, where the old 
 Gates ftand near Three Miles from bne another over 
 the Fields, and the very Ruins are fo buried, that 
 they have made good Corn Fields of the Streets, and 
 the Plough goes over the Foundations, nay, over the 
 firft Floors of the Houfes, and where nothing of a 
 Town feems to remain ; yet at one Eleftion for 
 Members, the Struggle was fuch, between Sir John 
 B-anhy and Colonel Draper a neighbouring Gentle- 
 man, that I was aflured the latter fpent i i,ooo /. and 
 loft it too. What the other fpent, who oppofed him, 
 rriay be gueffed at, feeing he who fpent moft was 
 always fure to carry it. 
 
 Near Steyning^ the famous Baronet of the Name 
 of Fagg hath an antient Seat. And thence paffing 
 by the Seat of Sir John Shelly, prettily fituated in the 
 Middle of a Grove, we come to Arundel, z decay'd 
 Town alfo. It ftands near the Mouth of the River 
 Arun, which heretofore had a good Harbour called 
 Arundel Port, or the Harbour of Little Hampton, 
 capable of receiving Ships and Veffels of a con- 
 fiderable Burden ; but a Beach being thrown up bv 
 the Sea, it was quite choaked up, and the Navigation 
 of the Arun obftrudted, fo that the Harbour was 
 rendered in a manner ufelefs. But in the Year 1733, 
 an A£l: paffed for eredling Piers in, and for Repair- 
 ing and Keeping in Repair the Harbour there, by 
 cutting a Chanel thro' the Beach and old Piers, and 
 credling Locks, i^c. 
 
 One great Advantage to the Country from this 
 River, is the Shipping off great Quantities of large 
 Timber here ; which is carried up the Thames to 
 Woolwich and Deptford, and up the Medway to 
 Chatham 3 as alfo Weftward to Portfmouth, and even 
 
 to 
 
ipo ^ T O U R thro* SufTex. 
 
 to Plymouthy to the new Dock there, and indeed to 
 all the King's Yards, where the Bufinefs of the Navy 
 is carried on. The Timber fhipped off here is 
 efteemed the heft and largeft that is brought by Sea 
 from an^ Part of England ; alfo great Quantities of 
 Knee Timber are had here, the largeft of which is 
 valuable in its kind above the ftrait Timber. 
 
 This River, and the old, decay'd, once famous 
 Caftle at Arundel, which has the Privilege to give to 
 its Pofleflbr the Title of an Earl and Peer of the 
 Realm, without Creation, and which belongs to the 
 noble Family of Howard, Earls of Arundel, and 
 Dukes of Norfolk, is all that is remarkable here j 
 except it be, that in the Church are Four old and 
 ftately Monuments of the Earls of Arundel, and that 
 in this River are catch'd the beft and largeft Mullets 
 in England, a Fifli very good in itfelf, and much 
 valued by the Gentry round, and often fent up to 
 London. 
 
 From hence to the City of Chichefier are 12 of 
 the moft pleafant and beautiful Miles in England^ 
 whether we go by the Hill, or Downs, or by the 
 Plain, or inclofed Country. 
 
 To the North of Arundel, and at the Bottom of 
 the Hills, andconfequently mxhtWeald, istheTown 
 of Petworth, a large handfome Country Market- 
 town, and very populous ; and as it ftands upon an 
 Afcent, and is dry and healthy, it is full of Gentle- 
 mens Families, and good well-built Houfes, both in 
 the Town and Neighbourhood ; but the Beauty of 
 Petworth is the antient Seat of the old Family of 
 Piercy, Y^zxhoi Northumberland, nowextin£t ; whofe 
 Daughter, the fole Heirefs of all his vaft Eftates, 
 married Charlh Seymour Duke of Somerfet ; and 
 among other noble Seats brought his Grace this of 
 Petworth. 
 
 The Duke pull'd down the antient Houfe, and on 
 the fame Spot built from the Ground one of the 
 
 beft- 
 
Suffex. G R EAT Brita IN. ipi 
 
 beft-modell'd Houfes then in Britain: it had the 
 Misfortune to be once ahnoft demohfhed by Fire, 
 but the Damage has been fully repaired. 
 
 The Apartments are very noble, well contrived, 
 and richly furnifhed ; but it cannot be faid, that the 
 Situation of the Houfe is chofen fo happily, as to 
 boaft of equal Judgment with the reft ; the Avenues 
 to the Front want Space, the Houfe ftands, as it 
 were, with its Elbow to the Town ; its Front 
 has no Vi/la anfwerable, and the Weft Front 
 look'd not to the Parks or fine Gardens, but to the 
 old Stables. 
 
 To rectify this, when it was too late to order it 
 any other way, the Duke was obliged to pull down 
 thofe noble Buildings ; I mean. the Meufe, or Stables, 
 the fineft of their kind in all the South of England^ 
 and equal to feme Noblemens whole Houfes : and 
 yet even the demoliftiing the Pile has done no more 
 than opened a Profpedt over the Country, whereas, 
 had the Houfe been fet on the rifing Ground, on the 
 Side of the Park, over-againft the North Wing of 
 the Houfe, and a little more to the Weftward, the 
 Front had been South to the Town, the back Front 
 to the Parks ; but now all thefe Advantages lie on 
 one Angle, or oppofite to one Wing of the Houfe. 
 Neverthelefs it is a noble Pile of Building, and by 
 far the fineft in all this Part' of Britain. 
 
 From Petworth Weft, the Country is a little lefs 
 woody than the PFeald ; and a great many fine Seats 
 begin to fliew their Heads above the Trees ; as the 
 Duke of Richmond's Seat at Goclwood^ near Chi- 
 chefter ; the Seats of the late Earl of Tankerville^ 
 and the Earl of Scarborough ; and a great many 
 others. 
 
 But the Seat of the Right Honourable the Lord 
 Vifc. Montacute., called Cowdrey^ ne<ixMidhurft, the 
 Midaofthe Romans^ deferves a particular Mention. 
 It is fituated in a Valley encompafled with Lawns, 
 
 Hills, 
 
192 ^ TOUR thro' Suffex. 
 
 Hills, and Woods, thrown into a Park, the River 
 running underneath, which renders the Place very- 
 agreeable in Summer, but makes itdampifti inWinter. 
 The Houfeis fquare, and at each Corner is 2>.Gothick 
 Tower, which have a very good Effedl, when 
 viewed from the rifing Grounds. The Hall is ceiled 
 with Ir'jjh Oak, after the antient manner. The 
 Walls are painted with Architefture by Roberti, the 
 Statues by Goupe, the Stair-cafe by Pelegrini. The 
 large Parlour or Room at the End of the Hall, is of 
 Holbein's Painting; where that great Artift has 
 defcribed the Exploits of King Henry VIII. before 
 Boloigne^ Calais^ his Landing at Port/mouthy his 
 magnificent Entry into London^ &c. In the other 
 Rooms are many excellent Pictures of the Anceftors 
 of the Family, and otlier Hiftory Paintings of Hol^ 
 bein^ relating to their Actions in War. The whole 
 Circuit of Rooms are ftately and well-furniflied, 
 adorned with many Pi<Stures. There is a long Gallery 
 •with theTwelve Apoftles as big as the Life ; another 
 very neat one, wainfcotted with Norway Oak, where 
 are many antient Whole-length Pidlures of the Fa- 
 mily, in their proper Habits. There are four Hiftory- 
 pieces, two Copies of Raphael's Marriage of Cupid 
 and Pfyche ; feveral oid religious and military Paint- 
 ings from Battle-abbey. 
 
 The Park is very noble, having a great Variety 
 of Grounds in it, and is well wooded with Pines^ 
 Firs, and other Evergreen-trees, which are grown 
 to a large Size i and here are fome of the largeft 
 Chefnut-trees perhaps in England. The Valleys 
 which run thro' the Park, are well fupplied with 
 Water, which keeps the Grafs in a conftant 
 Verdure. 
 
 Chichefter is a neat and pretty large City walled 
 round. The River Lavant runs under Part of the 
 Walls. Two principal Streets crofs it at right Angles 
 upon the cardinal Points, where ftands a curipus 
 
 Crofs, 
 
SulTex. GreatBritain. 193 
 
 Crofs, and Market-houfe upon Pillars, erefted by 
 Bifhop Read. The Church takes up one of tliefe 
 Qiiadrants. It is remarkable for Two Side-ides on 
 both Sides, and the Pictures of all the Kings and 
 Queens of England fince CiJJa^ (the South Saxon 
 Monarch,who made this his Royal Seat ; and repaired 
 the antient Roman Caftle or Walls, leaving his Name 
 to the Place) on the Southern Wall, as on the op- 
 pofite Wall, all the Bifliops. The Spire is a Piece 
 of excellent Workmanlhip, but it received fuch a 
 Shock fome Years ago, that it was almoft miracu- 
 lous, that the Steeple did not fall down ; which, if 
 it had, would probably have demoliflied the whole 
 Church. 
 
 It was what the Inhabitants call a Fire-ball, or 
 rather Lightning, which broke upon the Steeple, 
 with fuch irrefiftible Force, that it drove feveral 
 great Stones out of it, and carried them clear off, to 
 a prodigious Diftance from the Steeple. One of 
 thefe Stones, of at leaft a Ton Weight, was blown 
 over the South Side or Row of Houfes in the Weft 
 Street, and fell on the Ground in the Street, at a 
 Gentleman's Door, on the other Side of the W ay : 
 and another of them, almoft as big, was blown over 
 both Sides of the faid Weft Street, into the fame 
 Gentleman's Garden, and no Hurt done by either 
 iof them. This Account I relate from a Perlbn of 
 undoubted Credit, who was an Eye-witnefs, and 
 faw the Stones. The Breach made thereby in the 
 Spire, tho' within about 45 Feet of the Top, was 
 incredibly large, and yet the Steeple ftood faft, and 
 is now very fubftantially repaired ; which fliews, 
 that it was originally an admirably found and well 
 finiftied Piece of Workmanfhip. The Monuments 
 of Biftiop Carleton and Bifhop King are in this 
 Church, whofe Effigies are curioufly done in Marble. 
 
 In the Year 1723, in digging a Foundation at 
 Chichejier^ was found, pretty deep in the'Ground, a 
 Vol. I. K large 
 
I5>4 ^ T O U R thro' Suflex. 
 
 large. Stone Six Feet long and Three broad, with a 
 Roman Infcription on it. In digging up the Stone, 
 a few of the Letters were eras'd, but they were eafily 
 fupplied. 
 
 Septum e.t Mlnervce Templum, pro fa lute domus^ 
 Jiving, ex auElor'itate Tiber ii Claudii^ Cogiduhni 
 regis^ legati Augujli in Britannia^ Collegium fa- 
 hrorum, et qui in eo a facris, vel honorati junt, 
 de fuo dedicaverunt ; donante aream Pudente 
 Pudentini filio. 
 
 That isy 
 
 This Temple was dedicated to Neptune and Mi- 
 nerva, for the Safety of the Imperial Family, 
 by the Authority of Tiberius Claudius. It was 
 ereaed by the College of Artificers of King 
 Cogidubnus, Jugujlus's Lieutenant in Britain, 
 and by thofe who officiated as Priefts, or were 
 honoured in it, at their own Expence ; the 
 Ground being given by Pudens, the Son of Pii- 
 dentinus. 
 
 This Stone was prefented to his Grace the Duke 
 of Richmond, who has placed it in a Temple on a 
 Mount in his Garden at Godwood, between two Sta- 
 tues of Neptune and Minerva. 
 - This City is not a Place of much Trade, nor is 
 it very populous ; but within thefe few Years they 
 are fallen into a new way of managing the Corn 
 Trade here, which turns very well to Account ; for 
 whereas the Farmers, generally fpeaking, ufed to 
 carry all their Wheat to Farnham Market, which 
 is very near Forty Miles by Land -carriage, and 
 from fome Parts of the Country more than that, 
 fome money'd Men of Chichejler, Emfworth, and 
 other Places adjacent, join'd their Stocks together, 
 and built large Granaries near the Crook, where the 
 Veffels come up j and here they buy and lay up all 
 
Suffex. Great Britai N. ipf 
 
 the Corn which the Country on that Side can fpare 5 
 and having good Mills in the Neighbourhood, they 
 grind and drcfs the Corn, and fend it to London in 
 the Meal, by long Sea. 
 
 This is a great leflening to Farnham Market ; 
 but if the Market at London is fupply'd, the coming 
 by Sea from Chichejier is every whit as much a pub- 
 lick Good, as the encouraging of Farnham Market, 
 which is of itfelf the greateft Corn-market in Eng- 
 land ; Hempjlead in Hertfordjhire^ and London^ ex- 
 cepted. This carrying of Meal by Sea is now pra- 
 £tifed from feveral other Places on this Coaft, even 
 as far as Southampton. 
 
 Chichejier, befides the Cathedral, has Five fmall 
 Churches. About Three Miles from it, is a Houfe 
 of his Grace the Duke of Richmond^ called Godwood, 
 It was the antient Seat of the Earls of Northum- 
 berland, and in a very ruinous Condition ; but the 
 Duke of Richmond has lately built fome Offices, 
 which are to correfpond with a Manfion-houfe de- 
 fign'd by Colin Campbel, and publifti'd by him in his 
 Vitruvius Britannicus. 
 
 His Grace has a noble Menagerie, where he keeps 
 a great Variety of foreign Animals and Birds j but 
 the Park is fmall and ill-planted. 
 
 However, it has an eafy Defcent to the Eaft, South 
 and South-weft, with the Profpe£t of a rich and 
 beautiful Landlkip, bounded by the Sea for Thirty- 
 Miles in Length. The Ijle of Wight terminates 
 the South-weft Profpeft, and the famous St. Rooks- 
 hill covers it from the North. 
 
 About Three Miles to the Eaft of Godwood, lies 
 Charlton, a fmall Village, remarkable for being the 
 Seat of Fox-hunters ; here are many fmall Hunting- 
 houfes built by Perfons of Quality, who refide there 
 during the Seafon for Fox-hunting; but the moft 
 beautiful of thefe Buildings, is that of his Grace the 
 Duke of Richmond, 
 
 K 2 Here 
 
ip6 T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 Here is alfo a large Room, which was defign'd 
 by the Right Hon. the Earl of Burlington^ where 
 the Gentlemen Fox-hunters dine every Day toge- 
 ther, during their Stay at the Village. 
 
 By the Side of this Village is a Foreft, which was 
 formerly in the Poffeffion of the Lumlies^ but has 
 been for fome Years his Grace the Duke of Rich- 
 mond^Sy who has greatly beautified it, by cutting fine 
 Ridings thro' the feveral Parts of it, and making 
 jnany new Plantations therein. 
 
 From Chichejier^ the Road lying ftill Weft, we 
 pafs in Sight of the Earl of Scarborough' & fine 
 Seat at Stanjied, a Houfe furrounded with thick 
 Woods, thro' which there are the moft agreeable 
 Vifta's cut, that are to be feen any-where in Eng- 
 land ; and particularly at the Weft Opening, which 
 is from the Front of the Houfe, they fit in the Dine- 
 sng-room, and fee the Town and Harbour of Port/- 
 mouthy the Ships at Spithead, and alfo at St. Helen's ; 
 which, when the Royal Navy happens to be there, 
 is a moft glorious Sight. 
 
 In our Pafl^age to Portfmouth, we pafs'd by Fare- 
 Jmm^ and by Portchejiery a Caftle built out ofj 
 Roman City. 
 
 In Portfmouth Haven a Thoufand Sail of the big- 
 geft Ships may ride fecure. The Mouth is not fo 
 broad as the Thames at Wejiminjler^ and that fecur'd 
 on Gofport Side by Charles Fort, James Fort, Bo- 
 rough Fort, and Block-houfe Fort, which has a Plat- 
 form of above 20 great Guns level with the Water. 
 On the other Side by Portfmouth^ ftands South- fea 
 Caftle, built by King Henry VIII. The Govern- 
 ment has within thefe few Years bought more 
 Ground for additional Works, and no doubt it may 
 be made impregnable ; for a fhallow W"ater inay be 
 brought quite round it. The Yards, the Docks, 
 tlie Store-houfesj where all the furniture is laid up 
 
Hants. Great Britain. 197 
 
 in the exa£l:efl: Order, fo that the Workmen can 
 find any Implement in the Dark, exceed Imagina- 
 tion ; as do the immenfe Quantities of all forts of 
 military and naval Stores, The Rope-houfe is 870 
 Feet long, one continued Room, almoft a Qiiarter 
 of a Mile. I had the Pleafure of feeing a great Cable 
 made here : it requires 100 Men to work at it, and 
 fo hard is the Labour, that they can work but Four 
 Hours in the Day. The fmalleft Number of Men 
 continually employed in the Yard is looo, and that 
 but barely fufficient. 
 
 Here is alfo a good Counterfcarp, and double 
 Mote, with Ravelins in the Ditch, and double 
 Palifadoes, and advanc'd Works to cover the Place 
 from any Approach, where it may be pradicable. 
 The Strength of the Town is alfo confiderably aug- 
 mented on the Land-fide, by the Fortifications raifed 
 of late Years about the Docks and Yards ; and thofe 
 Parts made a particular Strength by themfelves ; and 
 tho' they are indeed in fome Senfe independent one of 
 another, yet they cover and ftrengthen one another,, 
 fo that they cannot be feparately attack'd on that 
 Side, while they are both In the fame Hands. 
 
 Edw. IV. began thefe Fortifications ; Henry VII. 
 confiderably augmented them j Charles II. much Iot- 
 prov'd them ; and King James II. greatly added to^ 
 them. I was forry to leave this amazing Scene of 
 naval Grandeur, for the Sight of a wretched Sta- 
 tue of King William III. gilt indeed in an extraor- 
 ■ dinary manner, but the very worft of all the bad 
 Works of this kind I have yet feen. I obferv'd the 
 great Quantity of Water and Ditches hereabout is. 
 apt to render the Place aguifh. 
 
 Thefe Docks and Yards are now like a Town by 
 themfelves, and are a kind of Marine Corporatioa 
 within themfelves ; there being particular large Rov/s 
 of Dwellings, built at the publick Charge, within 
 the new Works, for all' the principal Officers of the 
 K 3 Place i 
 
.15)8 T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 Place; efpecially the Commiffioner, the Agent of 
 the Vi£tualling, and fuch-llke. 
 
 T h^li awn Port fmouth is a well inhabited, thriving 
 Corporation ; and hath been greatly enriched of late 
 by the Fleet's having fo often and ib long lain there, 
 as well as large Fleets of Merchant-men ; befides, the 
 conftant fitting out of Men of War here, and the 
 often paying them at Port/mouth, has made a great 
 Refort of People to it. Mr. Camden^ fo long ago as the 
 Reign of Queen Elizabeth, takes notice, that Portf- 
 mouth was populous in time of War, hut not fo in time 
 of Peace : but now the Bufmefs of the Navy is fo 
 much increafed, and fo much of it always done here, 
 that it may be faid, that there is more to do at Portf- 
 mouth now in time of Peace, than was then in time 
 of War. 
 
 The Government of the Place is by a Mayor and 
 Aldermen, ^ c. and the Civil Government is no more 
 interrupted by the Military, than if there was no 
 Garifon there : fo that we have very feldom had any 
 Complaint either of Want of Difcipline among the 
 Soldiers, or Want of Prudence in the Magiftrates. 
 
 Since the Increafe of Bufinefs at this Place, the 
 Confluence of People has been fo great, that the 
 Tcv/n not ndrriitting any Inlargement for Buildings, 
 a kind of Suburb, or rather a new Town, has been 
 built on the heathy Ground adjoining, which is fo 
 confiderable, that it threatens to outdo, for Numbers 
 of Inhabitants, and Beauty of Buildings, even the 
 Town itfelf ; and the rather, as it is unconfin'd by 
 the Laws of the Garifon, and unincumber'd with the 
 Corporation Burdens, Freedoms, Town-duties, Ser- 
 vices, and the like. 
 
 Next we arriv'd at the Portfdown Hills, which are 
 of Chalk, and at a reafonable Diftance from the Shore 
 extend themfelves into Suffex. 
 
 Here we turn'd to admire the Face of the Ground 
 we had pafs'd. The Ports, Creeks, Bays, Ocean, 
 
 Caftle 
 
Hants. Great Britain. 
 
 Caftles and Ships, the ip of Wight, Portchefier, the 
 confiderable Town oiGofport, Port/mouth, Southamp- 
 ton, Chichefler, and all -the Coaft from Portland 
 We to SufTex, were comprehended under one View. 
 
 Yxom Portfmouth, Weft, the Country lies low and 
 flat is full of Creeks and Inlets of the Sea and Ki- 
 vers, all the Way to Southampton, fo that we ferry 
 over three times in about i8 Miles ; befides going 
 over the Bridge at Tkhfield. The firft of thefe Fer- 
 ries is at Port/mouth itfelf, (viz.) crofs the Mouth 
 of the Harbour, from the Point above-mention d to 
 Gofbort, a large Town, and of great Trade, elpe- 
 ' cially in time of War. From thence we ride to T^r/^- 
 field 2.^ above, where we pafs the River Aire, which 
 rifes in the fame County at Alresford, or near it, 
 which is not above Twenty-two Miles ofF ; and yet 
 it is a large River here, and makes a good Road 
 below, call'd Tichfield-bay . Thence at about Four 
 Miles we pafs another River at BuJJelton, narrow 
 in Breadth, but exceeding deep, and eminent for its 
 beincr able to carry the largeft Ships: here is a Build- 
 incr-yard for Ships of War; and in King Wdliam s 
 Tune, Two Eighty-gun Ships were launch'd here. 
 It feems, the Safety of the Creek, and the Plenty 
 of Timber in the Country behind it, is the Realon 
 of Building fo much in this Place. ^ 
 
 From hence, when we come oppohte to hout,]- 
 arnpton, we pafs another Creek, being the Mouth of 
 the River ^/r^, which comes down from IVincbeJtery 
 and is both very broad and deep ; and the Ferry- 
 men having a very forry Boat, we found it tlanger- 
 ous enough paffing it. On the oppofite Bank Itands 
 the antient Town of Southa?npton, on the other Side 
 of which comes down another large River, called 
 the Teft, entring Southampton Water by Red-bridge ; 
 fo that the Town of Southampton ftands upon a Point 
 running out into the Sea, between Two very fine 
 Rivers, both navigable for fome Way up the Coun- 
 
 K 4 t^X' 
 
200 T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 try, and particularly ufeful for the bringing down 
 Timber out of one of the beft wooded Counties in 
 Britain ; for the River on the Weft-fide of the Town 
 comes by the Edge of New-foreji : here we faw a 
 prodigious Quantity of Timber, of an uncommon 
 Size, vaftly large, lying on the Shore of the River, 
 for above Two Miles in Length, which they told 
 us was brought thither from the Foreft, and left there 
 to be fetch'd by the Builders at Port/mouth-dock, as 
 they had Occafion for it. 
 
 In riding over the South Part of Hampjhire, I 
 made this Obfervatlon, That notwithftanding tl/t* 
 very great Confumption of Timber fmce the Revo- 
 lution, by Building or Rebuilding almoft the whole 
 Navy ; and notwithftanding fo many of the King's 
 Ships were built hereabouts, befides abundance of 
 large Merchant-fliips, which were about that time 
 built at Southampton^ at Red-bridge, and at Bujfelton, 
 & c. yet I faw the Gentlemens Eftates, within Six, 
 Eight, or Ten Miles of Southampton, fo over-grown 
 v^ith W ood, and their Woods fo full of large well- 
 grown Timber, that it feem'd as if they v/anted 
 Sale for it, and that it was of little Worth to them. 
 In one Eftate at Hurfeley in particular near JVin- 
 chejler, formerly belonging to Mr. Cromwell, Grand- 
 fon to Oliver Cromwell, tho' the whole Eftate was 
 not above 800/. per Ann. in Rent, they might have 
 cut Twenty thoufand Pounds worth of Timber 
 down, and yet have left the Woods in a thriving Con- 
 dition ; in another Eftate between that and Peterf- 
 field, of about looo/. per Ann. they told me they 
 could fell a Thoufand Pounds a Year in good laro-e 
 Timber fit for Building, for Twenty Years together, 
 and do the Woods no E[arm. The late Colonel 
 Norton alfo, whofe Seat Southwick was within Six 
 Miles of Port/mouth, and within Three of the Wa- 
 ter-carriage, had, as I was told, at that time, an 
 immenfe Quantity of Timber upon it, fome growing 
 
 within 
 
Hants. 
 
 Great Britain. 
 
 201 
 
 within Sight of the very Docks in Portfmouth. Far- 
 ther Welt it is all the lame, and as I rode thro' New-' 
 forej}^ I faw the antient Oaks of many hundred 
 Years ftanding, grown white with Age, and perifli- 
 ing with their wither'd Tops in the Air. 
 
 I fhall give other Hints of the like, when I come 
 to fpeak of Hertfordjhire, Buckingham/hire^ Berk- 
 Jhire, and the Counties which we call Inland, where 
 the Timber is but of fmall Value, for want of Wa- 
 ter-carriage to bring it away ; likewife again of the 
 Counties Northward, bordering upon the Hurnber^ 
 and upon all the Northern Rivers, not to fay a Word, 
 of Ireland ; which is ftill a Store-houfe of Timber, 
 more inexhauftible, if poflible, than England^. 
 
 But having mention'd the late Col. Norton, we 
 cannot pafs over in Silence his extraordinary Will,, 
 which made fo much Noife in the World. 
 
 This Gentleman dy'd in Dec. 1732, and left his 
 Real Eftate of about 6000/. per Ann, and a Per- 
 fonal, faid to be to the Value of 60,000/. to the 
 " Poor, Hungry, and Thirfty, Naked and Stran- 
 " gers, Sick and Wounded, and Prifoners, to the 
 " End of the World." And appointed the Parlia- 
 ment of Great Britain to be his Executors; and in 
 cafe of their Refufal , the Bilhops ; and left his 
 Pictures, and other Valuables to the King. But his 
 Will has been fince fet afide on the fcore of Infanity,. 
 ftrong Marks of which it carry'd in the Face of it. 
 
 This Gentleman was famous for a£ting feveral 
 Parts in Plays with great Propriety, particularly the 
 Part of Falftaff' in Shake/pear's Henry the Fourth, 
 and the Merry Wives of Windfor, at a neat Theatre 
 erected by himfelf, at his Houfe at Southwick, to 
 which, in a Vacation, he often drew down and eur 
 tertain'd the molt celebrated London A6tors. 
 
 This Gentleman's Seat at Southiuick was formerly 
 an old Monaftery, and many of die Walls of it are yet 
 remaining ; the Houfe being a Part of it ; the Situar 
 K 5 tion 
 
202 
 
 ^ T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 tion is very low and wet, having a great deal of boggy 
 Ground about it ; h\it from the Houfe the Park rifes 
 to the higheft Point of Port/down^ mention'd above, 
 where there are two very large Clumps of Scots Fir- 
 trees, which were planted by the late Col. Norton^ 
 and have thriven fo well (tho* greatly expofed to the 
 Sea Winds) as to become a Land-mark at a confider- 
 able Diftance at Sea, and may be feen near Twenty 
 Miles at Land. Between thefe two Clumps of Trees, 
 I was informed, that Gentleman intended to have 
 erected a lofty Building ; which muft have had an 
 exceeding good EfFe6l : for from the level Ground' 
 on this Spot, you have a full View of Portf- 
 mouth Town, Harbour and Docks, under the Eye ; 
 and St. Helenas in the Ijle of Wight is another Point 
 of View, with an unbounded Profpe<Sl: of the Sea 
 to the South-eaft ; and on the Land-fide, a large ex- 
 tenfive Vale, well planted and cultivated, bounded 
 with Hills fpread with Woods, and the South downs 
 covered with Sheep, juft under the Eye ; fo that 
 this Profpe6tmay be juftly efteemed one of the fineft 
 in England. 
 
 Southampton is a truly antientTown, which hav- 
 ing been many Years decaying in its Trade, of late 
 has very much improv'd in that of Portugal Wines, 
 which are imported here and fent into many Places 
 inland, where formerly the London Merchants ufed 
 to deal ; and that in great meafure owing to the Du- 
 ties being eafier at Southampton than at London. They 
 alfo carry on fome Trade with the Ifles of ^erfey 
 and Guernfey ; and not a little, as their Enemies fay, 
 of the Smuggling Trade, The Town is large and 
 populous, has a fair High-ftreet, a fpacious Key ; and, 
 if its Trade fhould thoroughly revive, is able to con- 
 tain great Numbers of People. There is a French 
 Church, and no inconfiderable Congregation belona:- 
 ing to It. Here are llill fome Merchants who trade 
 to Nexufoundland for Fifti , which they carry to 
 
Hants, Great Britain. 203 
 
 the Streights, &c. and fomc Ship-building alfo is 
 carried on here, tho' not near fo much as formerly. 
 
 This Town had formerly the fole Privilege from 
 the Crown of importing Wines from thence ; which, 
 tho' a vaft Advantage to it, the Corporation either 
 wantonly or corruptly fold to London. 
 
 The Situation of Southampton between two Rivers 
 was to its Advantage formerly, in point of Strength ; 
 and is befides ftrongly wall'd with very large Stones, 
 full of thofe little white Shells, like Honey-combs, 
 which grow upon the Back of Oyfters. This is a 
 fort of Stone extremely hard, and Teems to be ga- 
 ther'd near the Beach of the Sea. Thefe Walls have 
 many Lunets and Towers, in fome Places double 
 ditch'd ; but the Sea encompafTes near half the Town. 
 It was built in the Reign of Edward III. 
 
 I obferve they have a Method of breaking the Force 
 of the Waves here, by laying a Bank of Sea-ore, as 
 they call it. It is compofed of long, flender and 
 ftrong Filaments, like pill'd Hemp, very tough and 
 durable ; I fuppofe thrown up by the Sea : aiid this 
 performs its Work better than Walls of Stone, or na- 
 tural ClifF. 
 
 At the South- eaft Corner, near the Qiiay, is a 
 Fort with fome Guns upon it, call'd the Tower, 
 On one was an Infcription, denoting its being erected 
 by King Henry VIII. in the Year 1542. In the 
 North-weft Corner was a ftrong Caftle, with a 
 Mount, wall'd about at- top as a Keep : upon this a 
 round Stone Tower, with a winding Afcent. 
 
 The Main of this Town confifts of one broad 
 Street, running thro' its Length. There are many 
 old religious Ruins, and great Ware-houfes, Cellars, 
 Store-houfes, ^c. The old Roman City call'd Trau- 
 fantum^ ftood more Eaftward upon the Banks of the 
 River Itching, coming from Winchejier, v/here now 
 is a Hamlet nam'd St. Mary^s. There is a handfome 
 new Church built upon the Ruins of an old one, 
 )L 6 whichj 
 
^ T O U R thro" Hants. 
 
 which, they fay, was burnt in fome French Wars. 
 It is near theprefent Ferry, and oppofite to Bittern, 
 where was an old Roman Caftle, furrounded with a 
 Ditch, into which the Sea-water flow'd. It was 
 ruin'd in the Danijh Wars, and Southampton arofe 
 from its Afhes. This Place is memorable for the Ex- 
 periment of King Canute, who to filence the vain 
 Flattery of his Courtiers, feated himfelf on the Banks 
 of the River, with all his Regal Apparatus, and 
 commanded the Tide not to approach his Footftool. 
 
 About a Mile from this Town, on the Banks of 
 the River Itching, is a vaft large Pile of Earth, which 
 rifes in the Form of a Cone, from a large wide Foun- 
 dation of great Extent and Circumference, which 
 they call Bevis-Mount. It is fuppofed to be an an- 
 tient Fortification, thrown up by the Saxons, under 
 the Command of Bevis, to oppofe the Paffage of the 
 Danes over the River, who lay encamp'd on the other 
 Side. The River is not very large, but tlie Tide 
 running up into it a good Way beyond the l^own, 
 forms a kind of Bay juft under this great Mount, 
 which being contiguous to an Eftate belonging to the 
 late Earl oi Peterborough, his Lordfhip purchafed it, 
 and converted it into a kind of Wildernefs ; and as 
 it is full of Trees and Brambles,* he has cut through 
 them divers circular Walks and Labyrinths, fo very 
 intricate, that it Ls hardly poffible to avoid being loft 
 in them. His Lordfhip ufed frequently to divert 
 himfelf by dropping his Friends in the midft of this 
 Wildernefs, and, ftealing away, let tliem wander up 
 and down, till they found their Way out of it. The 
 Mount terminates above, as is feign'd of Parnajfus, 
 in a kind of Fork ; and between the two Spires is a 
 Bowling-green or Parterre, adorn'd with fine Italian 
 Marble'^Statues, brought by his Lordfhip from abroad. 
 It lies open on the Side facing the River, and when 
 the Tide is in, gives a moft agreeable Pro fpe£f. On 
 one Side of this Parterre, declining gradually from the 
 
Hants. Great Brit AiN. lof 
 
 Top of one of the Spires to the Green, is planted a 
 little Vineyard, expofed to the South ; and on the 
 other Side, on the very Summit of the Spire, Hands 
 a fine Summer-houfe , very elegantly built and 
 contrived, with a good Cellar under it, where liis 
 Lordfliip kept his Wines, having no good Cellerage 
 at his Houfe, which is near a quarter of a Mile from 
 the Mount, from which his Lor-dfhip called it Bevis- 
 Mount. He intended to rebuild the Houfe, and 
 convert all the Grounds lying between it and the 
 Mount, into Gardens, had he lived a little longer. 
 The Beauty of the Improvements which his Lordlhip 
 has made in this Mount, are hardly to be conceived. 
 He has adorn'd it with Statues, Grottoes and Alcoves, 
 and diverfify'd it up and down with fomething new 
 and furprifing, at every turn, peculiar to his own 
 fine Tafte and Genius in Gardening, wherein no 
 Nobleman excell'd, and few equall'd him in Europe. 
 He left this little Seat, and Lands about it, to his 
 Lady, who now enjoys them. 
 
 There are as many things fabled here of Bevis, as 
 there are in Wales and Cornwall of King Arthur^ 
 both of whom have fufFer'd much from Legendary 
 Writers and Tradition j for as King Arthur per- 
 form'd many brave and valiant A<£ls in War, and was 
 of great bodily Strength, fo Bevis, who was a 
 Saxon Lord, was a Man of much military Courage 
 and Conduct, as well as perfonally ftrong. He was 
 a great Oppofer of the Normans^ and followed them 
 down to Wales, and gave them Battle, near Caerdiff\, 
 in Glamorgan/hire, but was there defeated. 'Tis 
 faid his Sword may be ftill feen at Arundel Caftle ; 
 yet there are fome who, from the Fables, with which 
 their Stories are mingled, doubt whether ever there 
 were fuch Perfons as either of them. 
 
 I here took a Paffage over to the Ijle of Wight, and 
 in Two Hours arriv'd at Cowes, by the Way paiBng 
 by Caljhof Caftle, where fome Years ago were to be 
 
 feen 
 
206 ^ T O U R thro Hants. 
 
 feen the Main-top-maft Head of a Dutch Man of 
 War, funk in that Place, a very dangerous Sand 
 lying there in the middle of the Current. 
 
 Cowes is the chief Sea-port Town in this Ifland ; 
 and in Time of War the general Place of Rendez- 
 vous for Merchant-fhips waiting for Convoys, bein^T 
 fecur'd, in fome meafure, by the Guns of the Ca- 
 ftle, but more by the Neighbourhood of Portf??iouth. 
 We walked Four Miles, and came to 
 
 Newport, the principal Town in the Ifland ; large 
 and populous. At a pretty ftrong Caftie, about a 
 Mile dilrant, refides the Governor. 
 
 The Ifland is very pleafant, and fo fruitful, that 
 one Year's Crop will ferve the Inhabitants for Seven 
 Years ; who therefore fupply Port/mouth, and the 
 Parts adjacent, witli the Surplus. It abounds par- 
 ticularly in Corn, Cattle, Hares, Rabbets, Wild- 
 fowl, Fift), ^c. It is Sixty Miles in Circumfe- 
 rence : its Militia is the beft difciplined in England. 
 Its Wool, in Finenefs, is next to that of Cotfwold. 
 Car'ijbrook Caftie is famous for being the Place of Im- 
 prifonment of King Charles I. Sanham, in this 
 Ifland, has alfo a Caftie ; fo has South-Yarmouth^ fo 
 called, to diftinguifti it from Great-Yarmouth, in 
 Norfolk. Spithead between Port/mouth and this 
 Ifland, and St. Helenas, near to the Ifle of Wight, are 
 famous for the Rendezvous of the Royal Navy of 
 England. Jppledore-come is a very beautiful Seat in 
 this Ifle, belonging to Robert JVorfl;y.^ B. rt. 
 
 This Ifland is alfo noted for having been once ad- 
 vanced to the Title of a Kingdom, by King Hen- 
 ry VI. in behalf of Henry Beauchamp, Earl of IVar- 
 'wick, his great Favourite, who was crown'd King" 
 of Wight, and of the Ifles of Jerfey and Guernfey, 
 in 1445, but dying Two Years after, the Ifle lolt 
 the Title of a Kingdom. For King Edward IV. 
 who fiicceeded Henry, beftow'd this Ifland upon 
 his Father-in-law, Richard Woodville, Earl Rivers, 
 
 widi 
 
Sarrey. Great Britain. 207 
 
 with the Title of Lord of Wight ^ as the late Earl of 
 Derby was Lord of the IJle of Man. 
 
 Returning to Southampton^ I was at the Extent 
 of my intended Journey Weft, intending to look no 
 farther this Way for the prefent. I went North-eaft, 
 leaving Wlnchejier a little on the Left, and came into 
 the Portfmouth Road at Petersjield, a Town chiefly 
 noted for good Inns, and ftanding in the Middle of 
 a Country overgrown with a prodigious Quantity of 
 Oak-timber. From hence we came to Alton^ and 
 in the Road thither began a little to tafte <-he Pleafure 
 of the Weftern Downs, which reach from Winchejler 
 almoft to that Place. 
 
 The Duke of Bolton has Two very noble Seats in 
 this Country, one between Alton and Alresford 
 and one at Bafing^ of which hereafter. Alton is a 
 fmall Market- town, of no Note, neither is there 
 any confiderable Manufacture in all this Part of Eng- 
 land^ except a little Drugget and Shalloon-making ; 
 otherwife the whole Counties of Kent., Sujfex., Sur- 
 rey and Hajnpjhire^ are not employ'd in any confider- 
 able Woollen Manufacture. 
 
 From Alton we came to Farnham., a large populous 
 Market-town, the fartheft that Way in the County of 
 Surrey^ from London ; and, excepting Hempjiead and 
 London., as we obferv'd above, the greateft Corn- 
 market in England.) particularly for Wheat, of which 
 fo vaft a Quantity is brought hither every Market- 
 -day, that a Gentlen^an told me, he once counted 
 1 1 00 Teams of Florfe, all drawing Waggons, or 
 Carts, loaden with Wheat ; every Team of which 
 is fuppofed to bring a Load, which is Forty Bufhels, 
 in the whole 44,000 Bufhels; but I do not take upon 
 me to affirm this for Truth of my own Knowledge, 
 tho' I know fome have thought the Qiiantity has been 
 much more ; but this alfo was, I fuppofe, before 
 the People of Chichejler and Einfworth on one Side, 
 
 and 
 
20 8 ^ T O U R thro Surrey. 
 
 and Southampton^ Tichfield, and Redbridge on tlie 
 other, took to the Trade of fending tlieir Wheat in 
 Meal to London by Sea, as I mentioned before. 
 
 The Toll-difh, fome Market-days, ufed to amount 
 to above a Load of Wheat ; and yet about loo Years 
 ago, it was fo fhort of it, that one Bi^Jk^ whofe Pro- 
 perty it was, fold it for Forty Shillings ; fo greatly 
 was this Manufiifture increafed within that Period. 
 But if Farnham has been aLofer by the Method late- 
 ly fallen upon by the People of Chichejhr and South- 
 ampton^ it has made itfelf amends by another Pro- 
 duct, which it has taken to within thefe Twenty 
 Years paft, and that is Hops, which it has fo vaftly 
 improved in, that it may be faid to outdo Canter- 
 bury^ Maidjione^ and any of the Places in Kent^ 
 moft noted for that Commodity ; and this not only 
 in Quantity, but Goodnefs. In fliort, all the Neigh- 
 bourhood about Farnham is one general Hop-ground ; 
 and to fhew the Excellency of the Produft, Farn- 
 ham Hops now lead the Price at all the Markets in 
 England. 
 
 At this Town is a Caftle built by a Bifhop of 
 JVinchefter^ which has been in a conftant Succeffion 
 polTefied by the Biftiops of the Diocefe ever fmce 
 King Stephen's Time to this Day, and is their ufual 
 Place of Refidence. This Palace is a magnificent 
 Stru<!:l:ure, deeply moated, and ftrongly wall'd, with 
 Towers at proper Diftances. It ftands upon the 
 Edge of an Hill, where is a fine Park. One large 
 and broad Street of the Town below-hill fronts the 
 Caftle. The Main of the reft of the Town, con- 
 fifts of a long ftrait Street, crofting it at right An- 
 gles. The River went parallel to it on the South., 
 
 About Two Miles from Farnham, is More-park, 
 formerly the Seat of Sir Wiltia7n Temple, who, by 
 his Will, ordered his Heart to be put into a China- 
 bafon, and buried under a Sun-dial in his Garden, 
 which was accordingly perform'd. This Houfe is 
 
 fituated 
 
Surrey. Gre a T Br i ta IN. 209 
 
 fituated in a Valley, furrounded on every Side with 
 Hills, having a running Stream thro' the Gardens, 
 which, with a fmall Expence, might be made to 
 ferpent thro' all the adjoining Meadows, in a moft 
 delightful manner. At about a Quarter of a Mile 
 from the Houfe, is a large Grotto in the Side of a 
 Hill, from whence you may command a Profpedl 
 of the Meadows and Woods which lie below it ; 
 and thefe are bounded again by Hills, which makes 
 the whole one of the moft romantick Places imagin- 
 able. 
 
 From Farnham^ that I might take in the whole 
 County of Surrey^ I took the Coach Road over 
 Bagjhot-heath, and that great Foreft, as it is call'd, 
 of Windfor. 
 
 Bagjbot-heath, which at prefent is a horrid bar- 
 ren Country, is capable of great Improvement, as 
 may be judg'd by the feveral Inclofures on the Bor- 
 ders of it, and fome in the Centre alfo, which from 
 bemg in the fame Condition, (as we at prefent fee 
 the whole Face of the Country thereabouts, very 
 barren, producing nothing but Heath and Whorts) 
 now produces good Corn and Grafs, and in fome 
 Parts are good Plantations of Trees, which thrive 
 well. 'On the Edge of this Heath are feveral Seats 
 of Noblemen ; but thofe which require Notice are, 
 firft, the Right Hon. the Earl of Jrran's^ which is 
 a large Irxlofure, the Wood-walks and other Plan- 
 tations being lipward of Two Miles in Circum- 
 ference ; and the Park, which runs on the other Side 
 of the Houfe, is upward of Three Miles. The 
 Plantations in this Inclofure have made good Pro- 
 grefs, which is a Proof, that the Soil thereabout is 
 capable of great Improvement. 
 
 The next Seat is that of the Right Hon. the Earl 
 of Anglefea^ which is an antient Houfe, fituated verv 
 near the Church, and almoft furrounded with large 
 1 recsj fo that only the Front appears to View. 
 
 The 
 
21© ^ T O U R thro Surrey. 
 
 The Duke of Roxlorough has alfo a Seat in this 
 Place, where his Grace ufed to refide a grest Part 
 of the Summer and Autumn, for the Pleaiure of 
 Shooting, being very fond of that Sport. 
 
 This Defert hes extended fo much, that feme fay 
 there is not lefs than 100,000 Acres of this barren 
 Land that lies all together, reaching out every Way 
 in the Three Counties of Surrey^ Hampjhlre^ and 
 Berk/hire ; befides a great Quantity of Land, almoft 
 as bad as that between Godalmin and Petersfield^ on 
 the Road to Portfmouth, including fome Hills call'd 
 the Hind-head, and others. 
 
 It may not be amifs to take notice of a common 
 Miftake in relation to Bag/hot Mutton, fo much 
 valued by the Gentry, which they fuppofe to 
 be fed there, and from the Poornefs of the Soil, 
 render'd fmaller than moft other Mutton in Eng- 
 land, whereas I am credibly inform'd, that none of 
 the Sheep are fed at Bagjhot, being brought^ from and 
 fed upon Ha?npjhire Downs, and all kill'd by the 
 Butchers of Ba?Jhot, and fent to London. 
 
 Thro' this Defert, for I can call it no lefs, we 
 come into the great Weftern Road, leading from 
 London to Salijbury, Exeter, he. and pafs the 
 Thames at Stanes. 
 
 The Bridge of Stanes, and Egham Cauieway, 
 which are part of the Highway from London, to the 
 Weft of England, having been, for fome time, m 
 a ruinous and dangerous Condition, and the Tolls 
 and Duties laid by an Ad paffed in the Reign of 
 Henry VHI. and another in that of Queen Eliza- 
 beth, amounting to no more than the clear Sum of 
 45 /. per Annu?n, the Bridgemafters were obliged to 
 exaa at the Ferry there exorbitant Rates for con- 
 veying Paflengers over the Thames, in order the bet- 
 ter to fupport the fliid Bridge and Caufeway ; and 
 yet all proving infufficient, as well as burdenfome, 
 an Aa paffed in theSeffion of r739-40> fo^^ ^^^^T"'', 
 
Surrey. Great B ritain. 211 
 
 efFe£tual Maintenance and well -keeping of them 
 both ; and will be a great Benefit to Paffengers, as 
 alfo to the River, and the Towns adjacent ; and the 
 Ail provides, that in cafe of the Reparation of the 
 Bridge, or any other Accident which fhall hinder 
 Paffengers or Carriages going over the Bridge, the 
 Ferry fhall exadl no higher Rate for conveying over 
 fuch Paffengers, iffc. than are laid for paffing over 
 the Bridge. 
 
 Here recollecting that I had yet left the Inland 
 Towns of the Two Counties of Kent and SuJ/ex, and 
 great Part of the County of Surrey, out of my Ac- 
 count ; and that having, as it were, taken a Circuit 
 round the Coaft only, I had a great many Places 
 worth viewing to give an Account of ; I therefore 
 left Wind/or, on one Side of the River, and Hafnp- 
 ton-Court on the other, to be the Subjed^: of another 
 Letter ; and refolv'd to finifh my prefent Purpofe in 
 the Order I had begun it, that is to fay, to take in 
 the whole Country as I came on ; that I might make 
 as few Tranfitions as poffible from one remote Part 
 of England to another. 
 
 From Stanes therefore I turn'd S. and S. E. to 
 Chertfey^ another Market-town, and where there 
 is a Bridge over the Thames: this Town is noted for 
 the Burial-place of Henry VI. whence his Sones 
 were afterwards removed to Windfor by Henry VII. 
 and alfo by its being the Retreat of the incomparable 
 CowTey, where he lived diftant from the Hurries of 
 the Court and Tov/n, intirely taken up in Country 
 Bufinefs, Farming and Hufbandry, for his Diver- 
 fion, and v\Khere he alfo dy'd. 
 
 From this Town, wholly employ 'd in Malting, 
 and in Barge Carriages down the River to London^ I 
 went away South to Woking, a private Country 
 Market-town, fo out of the Way, that 'tis very 
 little heard of in England, It claims however fome 
 Flonour, from its being once the Refidence of a 
 
 Royal 
 
212 ^ T O U R thro" Surrey. 
 
 Royal Branch of the Family of Plantagenet, the old 
 Countefs of Richmond, Mother to King Henry VII. 
 who made her laft Retreat here, where the King 
 her Son built, or rather repair'd, an old Royal Houfe, 
 on purpofe for her Refidence, and where flie ended 
 her Days in Honour and Peace ; the former Part of 
 her Life having been much expofed to Storms and 
 Dangers under the turbulent Reigns of the Two 
 preceding Monarchs. 
 
 From hence we came to Guilford, a well knc.vn 
 and confiderable Market-town. Here fometimes 
 the Affizes are held, but always Elections for Par- 
 liament Men for the County. The River, which, 
 according to Mr. Camden, is called the Wey, and 
 which falls into the Thames at Oatlands, is made 
 navigable to this Town, which adds greatly to it's 
 Trade ; and by this Navigation a very great Quan- 
 tity of Timber is brought down to London, not from 
 the Neighbourhood of this Town only, but even 
 from the woody Parts of SuJJex and Hampjhire above 
 Thirty Miles from it, the Country Carriages bring- 
 mg it hither in the Summer by Land. This Navi- 
 gation is alfo a great Support to the Corn-market 
 at Faniham : for as the Meal-men, and other Deal- 
 ers, buy the Corn at that Market, a good deal of it 
 is brought to the Mills on this River ; which is net 
 above Seven Miles diftant, and being firft ground 
 and drefs'd, is then fent dov^n in the Meal by Barges 
 to London, ,at a fmall Expence. 
 
 Here is a fmall Remainder of an old Manufailure, 
 in the Clothing- trade ; and it , extends itfelf to 
 Goda/znin, Hafehnere, and the Vale Country, on 
 the Side of the Holmwood, (of which I fhall fpeak on 
 another Occafion) quite to Z)<?r/^/«^. Thefe Cloths 
 of a middling Price have formerly been in great Re- 
 pute, but afterwards loft their Credit for fome time, 
 till, by the Application and Skill of the Clothiers, 
 ©f late they revived, whilft the Clothiers of Cran- 
 
 brook 
 
Surrey. Gr eat Britain. 213 
 
 ^rook and Tenter den in Kent^ whofe Goods are of the 
 fame Kind, are almoft funk to nothing, as I have 
 already obferved. 
 
 This Clothing-trade, however fmall, is yet very 
 aflifting to the Poor of this Part of the Country, 
 where the Lands, as I have noted, are but indifferent, 
 the Inhabitants generally Cottagers, living chiefly by 
 the Commons and Heath Ground thereabouts. 
 
 On Wednefday the 23d of April 1740, the Upper 
 Church at Guilford in Surrey fell down. It was 
 an antient Building, and, not long before, 750 /, was 
 expended upon it in Repairs ; there was Preaching in 
 \X.Q>r\\.\\^ Sunday before, and Workmen were em ploy 'd 
 in taking down the Bells, who providentially had 
 xjuitted the Spot about a Quarter of an Hour before 
 the Accident happened, fo that not one Perfon re- 
 ceived any Hurt, tho' great Numbers were Spectators : 
 Three Bells had been taken down, and the other 
 Three fell with the Steeple, which broke the Body of 
 the Church to Pieces, tho' the Steeple received but 
 Jittle Damage by the Fall. 
 
 From Guilford the Road to Farnham is very re- 
 jnarkable ; for it runs along Weft from Guilford^ 
 upon the Ridge of a high chalky Hill, no wider 
 than the Road itfelf, and the Declivity begins on 
 either hand, at the very Hedge that bounds the 
 Highway, and is very fteep and high. From this 
 Hill is a Profpeft either way, fo far, that 'tis fur- 
 prifmg ; infomuch that one fees to the North, or 
 North-weft, over Bag/hot-heath, one way, to the 
 South-eaft into Suffex, the other way, almoft to the 
 South-downs^ and Weft to an unbounded Length, 
 where the Horizon only reftrains the Eye. This 
 Hill being all Chalk, a Traveller feels the Effbd of 
 it in a hot Summer's Day, when the Reflexion of 
 the Sun make the Heat almoft infupportable. This 
 Hill reaches from Guilford fo far as within a Mile 
 and a half of Farnham, 
 
 The 
 
214 T O U R thro' Surrey. 
 
 The Hill, or rather the Afcent of it from Guil^ 
 ford^ is called Catharine' s-hill ; on the Summit 
 whereof Hands the Gallows, which is fo placed, 
 that the Towns-people, from the High-Jlreet^ may 
 fit at their Shop-doors, and fee the Criminals 
 executed. * 
 
 Near Guilford^ on the Left-hand Side of the 
 Road leading to Godalmin, are the Remains of an 
 antient Chapel, fituated on the Summit of a Hill, fo 
 as to be feen at a confiderable Diftance every wayi 
 This is called St. Catharine's Chapel. The Mate- 
 rials with which this was built, are a fort of Tile, 
 which when broken, has the Appearance of Iron 
 within ; and the Cement which joins thefe Titles, 
 is now fo hard, as fcarcely to be penetrated with the 
 ftrongeft Inftrument. The only Remains of this 
 Chapel, are the outfide Walls, which being built 
 with thefe Materials, have refifted the Weather, and 
 the common Fate of Things. 
 
 The great Road from London to ChicheJIer, and 
 from London to Port/mouth, lying thro' Guilford, it 
 is confequently a Town very well furniflied with 
 Inns for Accommodation of Travellers, as is God- 
 almin alfo, the next Town, within Three Miles 
 of it, noted likewife, of late Years, for the Place 
 of Refidence of the Impoftor Mary Tofts, who fo 
 long amufed Statefmen, Phyficians, Anatomifts, 
 and, in fliort, all Degrees of Men, learned and un- 
 learned, with her infamous Rabbet-produ<a:ions,f5'<:. 
 
 From Gudford lies a Crofs-road, as it may be 
 called, to London, not frequented by Coaches or 
 Carriers, or the ordinary Faffengers to London, tho' 
 *tis by fome reckoned the neareft Way, and is with- 
 out Queftion much the pleafanter Road, if not the 
 pleafanteft in this Part of England ; vi%. From 
 this Town to Leatherhead, lo Miles ; from Leather- 
 head to London, over Banftead- downs, 15 Miles ; 
 or, if youpleafe, hy Epfo?n, 17 Miles j which, tho* 
 
Sarrey. GreatBritain. 21 f 
 
 it is called the fartheft Way, makes Amends abun- 
 dantly by the Advantage and Pleafantnefs of the 
 Road. 
 
 In the Road from Guilford to Epfom, being 15 
 Miles, you meet with a Town almoft at every Two 
 Miles End, in or near which is a handfome Seat. 
 The Road is always good, being a very h\rd Gravel. 
 On the Right-hand of tlie Road lie the Downs^ 
 which have conftantly a great Number of Sheep 
 feeding on them ; and on the Left, the Parks, 
 Gardens, and cultivated Fields, belonging to the 
 feveral Gentlemen who inhabit thofe Seats ; all which 
 render the Road very pleafant and agreeable. 
 
 The Seat of the Lord Onjloiv^ which is the firft 
 on the Road from Guilford^ is but indifFerentlv 
 fituated ; the Front which faces the Road, is ob- 
 fcured by the Wood, fo that it can be feen only in 
 one Point of View; and the Houfe ftanding very 
 low, does not command any Profpe6l from the 
 neighbouring Downs: the Avenues to it are very 
 narrow, and the Building, the' very large, is exe- 
 cuted in a very jjad Tafte. 
 
 On the fame Road lies an antient Seat, now in 
 the PofTeflion of James Fox^ Efq; which tho' an old 
 Building, yet having an open Situation, in Front, 
 toward the Downs, is rendered very pleafant ; and 
 the prefent PofTeflbr, being a Perfon of fine Tafte, is 
 beautifying the Houfe within, and making pleafant 
 Plantations about it; which will be a great Embellifti- 
 ment to the Seat. 
 
 Near this Road alfo lies the Seat of the Honourable 
 Sir Conyers Darcy ; which is fituated on an Emi- 
 nence, fo as to be feen many Miles diftant. The 
 Houfe is a large new Edifice, having a Park behind 
 it, and is pretty well timbered on every Side. I ought 
 not to omit mentioning the Seat of the late Arthur 
 Moore, Efq; at Fetcham, ne2iT Leatherhead, now 
 in the PoffefTion of Thomas Revel, Efq; where no 
 
 Coft 
 
2i6 ^ T O U R thro" Surrey. 
 
 Coft has been fpared to make a moft beautiful Situ- 
 ation by Nature more delightful by Art. 
 
 Two Miles from Guilford^ on the Banks of the 
 Wey^ is a fine Seat, which belonged, M^hen I faw 
 it, to the late Denzil Onflow^ Efq; called Pyrford, 
 and is exceeding pleafant, efpecially for the beautiful 
 Intermixture of Wood and Water in the Park, 
 Gardens, and Grounds adjoining ; whereby that 
 Gentleman, whofe Genius lay wonderfully in im- 
 proving Lands, and rendering Things more profitable 
 and pleafant, brought Pyrford to fuch a Perfedlion, 
 as to be inferior to very few, if any, of the fineft 
 Houfes in Surrey. Adjoining to the Park is a very 
 convenient and ingenious Decoy, the firft of the 
 Kind in this Part of England. 
 
 At the North- eaft End of this Range of fine Seats, 
 h Leatherhead, a little Thoroughfare-town, with a 
 Stone Bridge over the Mole, a River fo called, from 
 its remarkable Sinking into the Earth, at the Foot 
 of Box-hill, near a Village called Mlckleham, and 
 working its Way under Ground like a Mole, rifing 
 again at or near this Town of Leatherhead ; where 
 its wandering Streams are united again, and form a 
 pretty large River, as they were before, running to- 
 gether under LeatherheadBndge, and from thence to 
 Cobham, and fo it purfues its Courfe to the Thames^ 
 which it joins at Molefey, which doubtlefs takes its 
 Name from the River. 
 
 And here I cannot but take Notice of an unac- 
 countable Error, into which all the Writers I have 
 met with have unwarily fallen, on account of this little 
 River hiding itfelf in the Earth, and finding its Way 
 under Ground, from the Foot of Beechworth, or 
 Betfworth-caftle, near Box-hill, and then rifing again 
 at Leatherhead, as above ; as if the Water had at 
 once ingulph'd itfelf in a Chafm of Earth, or funk 
 in a Whirlpit. The great Camden Ihas not a little 
 contributed to this Error in his Account thereof ; 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 217 
 
 but as he is in fome meafure fet right by an Obfcr- 
 vation and Note in the hi\ Edition of his Britannia, 
 by the Right Rev. Continuator, I fhall have the lefs 
 Occafion to infift upon the Matter ; and ftiall there- 
 fore refer to them, and only mention what I have 
 myfelf obferved on this Occafion, having refided 
 fome time in the Neighbourhood. 
 
 The Current of the River being much obftrufted 
 by the Interpofition of Box-hill^ which, interrupt- 
 ing its free Courfe, forces the Waters to find their 
 Way thro' as well as they can ; and in order to this, 
 coming near that Part called the Stomacher^ the 
 Waters fink infenfibly away, lefiening the Stream 
 for near Two Miles, and thefe Chanels they call tJie 
 Swallows ; and the whole Ground on the Bank of 
 the River, where it is flat and low, is full of thefe 
 fubterraneous PafHiges ; fo that if on any fudden 
 Ram the River fwells over the Banks, it is obferved 
 not to go back into the Chanel again when the Flood 
 abates, but to fmk away into the Earth in the Mea- 
 dows, where it fpreads. 
 
 Thefe Swallows^ for there are many, and not one 
 called the Swallow^ as is faid in Mr. Camde?: ; tho' 
 they diminifti the Stream much, do not fo driV.k it 
 up, ^ to make it difappear : but when it crofTcs 
 the Roof near Micklehaiyi^ it runs very fiiarp and 
 broad, nor did I ever know it without Water in the 
 drieft Summer in that Place. On tiie contrary, I 
 have known it fo deep, the Waggons and Carri'a'es 
 have not dared to go thro'. 
 
 . Below this Place the Hills rife ajiain on the other 
 bide very high, and particularly on t1ie Ridge, which 
 the Country People call the AJhcomh-hilh , and they- 
 feem to force the River again Weft ; fo it furrounds 
 molt of the Park formerly belonging to Sir Richard 
 btuddolph^ and has feveral Bridges upon it ; and by this 
 time indeed, fomuch of it is funk away, that fometimes 
 the Chanel tho' full of Water in Pits and Holes. 
 
 V O L. I. T * 
 
 • ^ cannot 
 
J I S ^ T O U R thro' Surrey, 
 
 cannot be perceived to run ; but this muft be in ^ 
 very dry Seafon, and ftill theChane] is vifible, where 
 it runs at other times rapidly enough. 
 
 This Part, which has the leaft Water, continuing 
 about half a Mile, we then perceive the Stream very 
 vifibly to be increafed ; fo that it takes Vent again, 
 jiow, in thoufands of little Springs, till, in another 
 half Mile, it is an ample River again, and palles in 
 full Streams under Leatherhead Bridge, as above. 
 
 A further Proof of the gradual fmking away of the 
 Water, take as follows : In OSlober 1676, there 
 Jr-ippened a very fudden hafty Land-flood, which 
 fvv-elled the River to a very great Height ; and parti- 
 cularly fo high, that at Beechwcrth-cafile, and at 
 other Gentlemens Seats, near the River, where they 
 had Fifti-ponds that were fed by the River, it over- 
 flowed their Ponds, and carried off all their Fifli. 
 Sir Adam Broivn lived then 2.X.Beechworth~caJlle ; and 
 his Son, and the. young Gentlemen of the neighbour- 
 ing Families, difturbed at the Lofs of their Fifh, came 
 alfdown to Dar king; where theyraifed alittleTrocp 
 of the young Fellows and Boys of the Town, and all 
 went together, to that Part of the River which run^ 
 by the P^oot of the Stomacher of Box-hill. 
 
 ' There was a. low flat Piece of Meadow-ground, 
 Iving clofe to the River on one Side ; juft oppofite to 
 which, the Hill, lying alfo clofe to the River, made 
 up tlie Bank on the other : this Piece of Ground 
 niight contain about Four or Five Acres, and lying 
 hollow in the Middle, like the Shape of a Dripping- 
 p.in, was by the Overflowing of the River fo full of 
 Water, that the Bank, which lay clofe to the River, 
 tho' higher than the reft, was not to be feen. 
 
 The Gentlemen fet themfelves to raife this Bank, 
 fo as to feparate theWater in tlie hollow Part of the 
 Field, from that in the River, and then m^^de a Re- 
 turn to it, at the Upper, or Eaft-end of the Field ; 
 (b that no more Water could run into the Field from 
 
 ^7 
 
Surrey. Great Britain 219 
 
 any Part of the River. And the Event was, that 
 in about Two Nights and a Day, exclufive of the 
 Time they took in making their Dams, the Water 
 funk all away in the Field ; and the Fifh being fur- 
 rounded, were caught, as it were, in a Trap"; and 
 the Purchace fully recompenfed their Labour ; for 
 the like Qiiantity of Fifti, great and fmall, I believe, 
 was never taken at once in this Kingdom, out of fo 
 fmall a River. 
 
 This Story I mention, as a Demonftration of the 
 Manner of this River lofmg itfelf under Ground, or 
 being fivalloived up, as they call it ; for this Field, 
 where the Water funk away is juft at the Place, 
 which Mr. Ca7ndcn calls Svjallow^ near the Village 
 of Aikklehajn, and under the Precipice of the Hrll ; 
 and yet the Water was Two Nights and a Day fink- 
 ing leifurely off. And in this manner, and no other, 
 does fo much of the River as paffes under Ground, 
 fmk away. 
 
 The Town of Darkmg is eminent fcsr fevcral little 
 Things v/orth Obfervation ; as, firft, for the greac 
 Roman Flighway, caUed Stoney-Jlreet, which paflVs 
 thro' the Church- yard of this Town : Secondly, for 
 a little Common or Fleath, called the Cotiman Deaf;, 
 or the Heath of Poor Cottages^ (for fo the Word 
 fignifies) belonging to the Town ; and where their 
 Alms-houfe ftar.ds, which fome learned Phj'ficians 
 believe to be the beft Air in England : Thirdly, for 
 Tvlr. Hotuard's Houfe and Garden, called Deepdcn ^ 
 which ftand in a fmall Valley, environed with fteep 
 Hills on every Side ; the Level-ground about the 
 Floufe was laid oit into pleafant Walks and Gardens,, 
 which were planted with a great Variety of Exptick 
 Trees and Plants, and the Hills were planted with 
 Trees on every Side (excepting the South Afpeft) 
 which was planted with Vines; and formerly there 
 has been fome tolerable good Wine made there, tho' 
 the Flill is lb ftee?, that it is very difficult to walk up 
 
2 20 J r on Rtbro' Surrey, 
 
 it. At prefent the Gardens and Vineyard are neg- 
 le£ted, and many of the Exotick Trees have been 
 deftroy'd. On the Summit of the Hill, above the 
 Vineyard, is a Summer-houfe, from which, in a clear 
 Day, you may difcern the Sea oyer the Sonth-dcwns, 
 near Arundel. 
 
 The Market of Darking is the moft famous in 
 England.^ for Poultry ; and. particularly for thefatteft 
 Gecfe, and the largeft Capons. They are brought 
 hither from as far as Horjham in Sujfex ; and 'tis the 
 Bufinefs of all the Country, on that Side, for many 
 Miles, to breed and fatten them up ; and fome are fo 
 larore, as to be little inferior to Turkevs ; 1 have feen 
 them fold for 41. to4J. b d. each, and weighing 
 from 4 to 5 or 6 ft. a-piece. 
 
 On Holy Thurfday^ here is alfo a Fair, chiefly for 
 X/ambs, and the greateft in England of that Kind : I 
 have palled over the fo much celebrated Houfe of 
 Mr. Evelyn at Wotton, near Darking, not that it is 
 not worth Notice ; but becaufe fo many others have 
 faid fo much of it. 
 
 From Box-hill, and particularly from this Part of 
 it, is a fair Viev/, in clear Weather, quite over the 
 I'/cald of iSw^.v, to the South-downs ; and by the 
 Help of Glall'es, the Town of Horfnam, Jjhdown 
 Foreft, the Duke of So?nerfet's Houfe at PeHuorth, 
 and the South-downs, as they range between Bright- 
 helmjlon and Arundel, may be plainly feen ; belidcs 
 an unbounded Profpe£t into Kent. 
 
 The Vale beneath this Hill is, for many Miles 
 Eaft and Weft, called the Holmward, or Holmfdale ; 
 in the woody P.\rt of which are often found Out- 
 lying Red Deer ; and in the Days oiK.\n% James II. 
 or "while he was Duke of York, they have hunted the 
 largeft Stags here that have been feen in England. 
 The Duke took great Care to have them preferved 
 for his own Sport ; but they have, fince that, been 
 pgft of them deftroy'd. 
 
 Tills 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. ill 
 
 This, Hohnward h now chiefly overgrown with 
 Furz ; \,ut was famous for producing fuch Qi^iantities 
 of Strawberries, that they were carried to Marlcct 
 by Horfe-loads. 
 
 It is fuggefted, that this Place was in antient 
 Times the Retreat for nlany Ages of the nativa 
 Britons^ whom the Romans could never drive out ; 
 and, after that, it was the like to the 5'<^'X(J«j, wlrm 
 the Danes harafled the Nation, and ravaged the 
 Country where-ever they came. On this Account 
 they retain here in Memory the following Lines : 
 
 This is Holmefdale, 
 
 Never conquer^ never Jhalt, 
 
 The Country, tho' wild ftill, and perhaps having 
 the fame Countenance now in many Places, as it had 
 a thoufand Years ago ; yet in other Places is culti- 
 vated, and has Roads pafiable enough in the Summer 
 quite thro' it, on every Side, and the Woods are 
 in a great meafure cleared off. 
 
 Keeping along the Bottom of thefe Hills, and yet 
 not entering into this Vale, the Country is dry, knAy 
 or gravelly, and full of Gentlemens Houfes, and 
 good Towns ; tho' if we go but a little to the Right- 
 hand South, into the wild Part, 'tis a deep, ftrong, 
 and, in the wet Seafon, an unpaffable Clay. 
 
 In pafTing thro' Holmefdale (upon the Ridge of 
 Mountains which extend {YomKent to thtLand's-end) 
 you come to IVotton^ a fmall Village, near which is 
 the antient Seat of the Evelyns^ which is fituated 
 amongft Meadows, having pleafant Streams of Wa- 
 ter paffing thro' them, and the neighbouring Hills 
 covered with Woods, which renders the Situation 
 pleafant in the Summer-feafon ; but the Roads about 
 it being very bad in Winter, it is not fo convenient 
 an Habitation at that Seafon. 
 
 Near this Place is fituated Lith-hill, which rifcs 
 gradually from hence, for near Three Miles to the 
 L 3 South i 
 
2 22 * ^ TOUR tbro' Surrey. 
 
 South ; from the Top of which you have a full 
 Profioecl of the whole Counties of Surrey and SuJ/ex, 
 p;;rt of Ha?npfi)ire, EerkJIrire, OxfordJ})lre, Bucking- 
 hcanjblre, Hertfordjlnrc^ Middkfex, Kent, and Ej/ex ; 
 the whole Extent of this Profpe£l being thought 
 vicar 2C0 Ivliles, and that without the Help of 
 Gladys. 
 
 'iVavellingEaft at the Foot of the Hills, we came 
 to Rygate, a large Market-town, fituated in the 
 Valley of Holme jdale ; where are ftill to be feen 
 the Ruins of a Caftle, with a long Vault, and a 
 Room at the End of it ; in which 'tis faid the Barons 
 who were in Arms againft King John^ held their 
 private Meetings. 
 
 Near this alio are two miferable Borough Towns, 
 which neverthelefs fend each of them Two Members 
 to Parliament, to wit, Gatton under the Side of the 
 Hill, ?i\mo{i 2,t Rygate and Bieechingly more Eaft- 
 ward. 
 
 At Nuffield, between Rygate and Beechingly, is 
 another Branch of the Family of Evelyn, who have 
 ilourifhed there many Years. 
 
 From hence, croffing ftill all the Roads leading 
 from Loyidon into SuJJ'ex, we came again to a Village 
 called Godjione, which lies on the Road from London 
 to Lewes. 
 
 And keeping on Eaft, we came to Wejterham, 
 a near, handfome, well-built Market-town, the 
 iirft in Keyit on that Side. The late Earl of 
 "Jerfey built (or rather finiftaed, for it was begun by 
 a private Gentleman) a very noble Houfe here, 
 called Squ'irrles, which is now in the Pofleffion of 
 John Warde, Efq; Son to Sir Jehn Warde, who 
 v/as Lord Mayor of London in the Year. 1724. 
 The Houfe ftands on a fmall Eminence, regarding 
 the Land in the Front; but on the Back of the 
 Houfe, the Ground rifes very high, and is divided 
 into feveral fteep Slopes, which renders the Situation 
 
 damp 
 
Suffey. Great BRitAlN. 22^ 
 
 damp and cold. Near the Houfe are fome Woods, 
 thro' which the prefent PoileiFor has cut feveral 
 Ridings ; and on the other Side of the Hill, behind 
 the Houfe, arife Nine confiderable Springs, whicti 
 unite at a fmall Diftance ; and thefe form the River 
 Dart^ which runs thro' Dartford^ and afterwards 
 difcharges itf:;lf into the Thames. 
 
 All this Part of the Country, from Guilford tc> 
 this Place, is very agreeably pleafant, healthy, arid 
 fruitful ; and is overfpread with good Towny, 
 Gentlerrtens Houfes, populous Villages, abundance 
 6f Fruit, with Hop-grounds and Cherry-orchards, 
 and the Lands well cultivated ; but ail on the 
 Right-hand, that is to fay. South, is over-growu 
 with Timber, has abundance of wafte and wild 
 Grounds, and Forefts, and Woods, with majiy 
 large Iron- works, at which they call Iron-caldrons, 
 Chimney-backs, Furnaces, Retorts, Boiling-pots, 
 Iron Cannon, Bomb-fhelrs, Stink-pots, Hand-gre- 
 iiadoes, Cannon-ball, ^c. 
 
 From hence going forward Eaft, we come to 
 Riverhead^ a Town on the Road from London to 
 Tunbr.ldge ; and then having little to fpeak of in 
 Kent, except fome petty Market-towns, fuch as 
 Wrotham, commonly called Rootham^ Tcvon- Mailing, 
 Cranhrook, and the like, of which I have taken 
 fome Notice before ; I turned North, and came to 
 Bromley, a Market- town, made famous by an 
 Hofpital, or College, built there by Dr. John^ 
 Warner, Lord Bifhop of Rochejier, for the Relief 
 of 20 poor Widows of loyal and orthodox Clergy- 
 men, who are allowed each 20 /. per Annum, and a 
 Chaplain 50/. and has had many Gifts and Charities 
 beftov/ed on it fmce. 
 
 Near this Town we turned aw^ay by Beckenham, 
 and thro' Norwood to Croyden ; in the Way we faw 
 Dulwich or Sydenham-wells, v/here great Crouds of 
 the lower Clafs of People throng every Summer from 
 
 L 4 London, 
 
2 24 ^ T O U R thro' Surrey. 
 
 London^ to drink the W aters there and at Strethain ; 
 and the rather, becaufe it lies fo near London^ that 
 they can walk to it in the Morning, and return 
 at'Night. 
 
 Croydon has a great Corn-market, but chiefly for 
 Oats and Oatmeal for the Service of London. The 
 Town is large, and full of Citizens from London : 
 in it is the antient Palace of the Archbifhops of Can- 
 terbury, and feveral of them lie buried in the Church 
 iiere ; particularly Archbifliop Whitgift^ who not 
 only repaired the Palace, but built and endowed the 
 famous Hofpltal, (which is for a Warden and 28 Men 
 aiid Women) and the Free-fchool. 
 
 From hence we pa fled by Beddington, where is the 
 Seat or Manfion-houfe of the antient Family of the 
 Carews. The Houfe is noble, and the Gardens 
 fine ; yet Architefts fay, that the two Wings are 
 too deep for the Body of the Houfe j that they fliould 
 either have been more afunder, or not fo long. 
 The Court before them is extremely fine, as is the 
 Canal in the Park, before the Court, having a River 
 running thro' it ; the Gardens take up all the flat 
 Part of the Park, with Vifta's, or ProfpecSts, 
 for Two or Three Miles. The Orange-trees con- 
 tinue, and are the only ones in England that grow 
 in the natural Ground : they have moving Houfes 
 to fhelter them in the Winter from the Inclemencies 
 of our Climate, and are loaded with Fruit in the 
 Summer. They have flood in the Ground where 
 they now grow, above 100 Years. 
 
 From hence it is but a little Mile to Cajhalton^ a 
 Country Village fituate among innumerable Springs 
 of Water, which, all together, form a River in the 
 very Street of the Town, and joining the other 
 Springs, which come from Croydon and Eeddtngton^ 
 make one Stream, called theJVandell. This Village, 
 tho' lying among fuch delightful Springs, is yet upon 
 firm Chalk; and having the Z)<?tf«j adjoining, makes 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 22f 
 
 the moft agreeable Spot on this Side of London, as is 
 abundantly teftify'd by its being crouded, as it were, 
 with fine Houfes of the Citizens of London j feme 
 of which are built with fuch a Profufion of Expencc, 
 that they look rather like Seats of the Nobility, than 
 the Country-houfes of Citizens and Merchants. 
 Mr. Scawen, Knight of the Shire for this County, 
 defign'd a noble Houfe here ; but it is not proceeded 
 with. That which once belonged to Sir John Fel- 
 lows, Sub-governor of the South-Sea Company in 
 the fatal Year 1720, v/as built by Dr. RatcUJf; but 
 the Gardens were made by Sir John. It was 
 purchafed by tlie Right Honourable Philip Lord 
 Hardwick, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, 
 by whom it was lately fold to William Alitchcl of 
 Huntingdon, who now pofleffes it. I cannot dwell 
 on the Defcription of all the fine Houfes in this and 
 the neighbouring Villages : I (hall fpeak of them 
 again in bulk v/ith their Neighbours of Mitcham, 
 Streiham, Tooting, Clapham, and others ; but I muft 
 take a Trip here crofs the Downs to Epfom. 
 
 Banjiead-downs need no Defcription other than 
 this, that being fo near London, and furrounded 
 as they are witli pleafant Villages, the Ground 
 fmooth, foft, level and dry, (even in but a fev/ Hours 
 after Rain) they confpire to make the moft de- 
 lightful Spot of Ground of that Kind, in all this 
 Part of Britain. 
 
 About four Miles over thofe delicious Doivns 
 bring us to Epfom, a well-built, large, and hand- 
 fome Village, which abounds v/ith fine Houfes, the 
 Retreats principally of the London Merchants. It 
 was very much frequented a few Years ago, on 
 account of its Mineral Wateis, which iffue from 
 a rifing Ground nearer Jfited than Epfom : but they 
 are now, tho' not impaired in their Virtues, yet 
 pretty much fo in their Reputation ; poffibly owing, 
 more than any thing elfe, to the Place being too near 
 
226 ^TOUR thro" Surrey. 
 
 London for a Journey for the Qimlitv and Gentry j 
 according to the old Saying, Far-fetch' d and dear- 
 hoiight is fittcftfor the Ladies. The Hall, Galleries, 
 ajid other, publick Apartments, are run to Decay ; 
 and there remains but one Houfe on the Spot, which 
 is inhabited by a Countryman and his Wife, who 
 carry the Waters in Bottles to the adjacent Places. 
 
 There are a great many fine Seats around this 
 Place, which we have not Room to defcribe : fuch 
 as the Lord Baltimore' Lady Fielding?,., Mr. 
 Mitcheir%2,t C a/halt on, ]\x9c mcntion'd, Mr.Scawen's, 
 and many others ; particularly that formerly 
 called Nonfuch, which was once a Royal Palace, and 
 finely fituated. King Charles IL gave it to the 
 Duchefs o^i Cleveland, and fhe fold it to my Lord 
 Berkeley, who built a fine Seat with the Materials 
 of it, nzzxEpfom, Dur darts. Nonfuch is now 
 
 but a Farm-houfe, zndDurdans is in the Pofleflion 
 of tiie Lord North and Guilford ; but his Royal 
 Highnefs Frederick Prince of PFales has lately taken 
 it for a pleafurable Retreat, when he is not difpofed 
 to go fo far as C lief den in Bucks. 
 
 From Epfofn, that I might thoroughly vifit the 
 County of Surrey, I rode over fliff Clays, and thro' 
 very bad Roads, to Kingflon ; from whence I had a 
 fine View of Hampton- court, at a Diftance ; but 
 that 1 referve for another Journey, 
 
 Kingflon is a good Market-town, remarkable for 
 a Free-fchool, ereded and endowed by Queen 
 Elizabeth ; an Alms-houfe built in 167® by Alder- 
 man Cleaver of London, and endowed with Lands 
 of 80 /. a Year, a Houfe were formerly refided the 
 great Earl of Warwick, furnamed Make-king, be- 
 iides Coo7nh, v/hich was likewife his, but now in 
 the Family of the Harvey s ; from whence the Wa- 
 ters of certain Springs are faid to be conveyed in 
 leaden Pipes under the Road, 2,nd. t\\Q Thames, to 
 Hampton- courts Three Miles in Length. Several of 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 227 
 
 the old Saxon Kings were not only crowned, but 
 had their adlual Refidence here ; whence it to:)k 
 its Name of Kingfiotvn. It had once the Privilege 
 of fending Burgeffes to Parliament, but now that is 
 loft. 
 
 From hence turning Southward, on the Road to 
 Guilford^ we come to EJher\ where was formerly a 
 Seat built by Cardinal Wolfey^ to which, during his 
 Miniftry, he frequently retired for Amufement. 
 The Gate to this Gothick Building remaining, was 
 turned into a Dwelling-houfe, which was lately fold 
 to the Right Honourable Henry Pelham, Efq; who 
 has beautified the old Part, and made additional 
 Buildings to it in the fame G<?//^/ci Style, and laid out 
 the Grounds about it in fo elegant a Tafte, as makes 
 It one of the fineffc Seats in the Neighbourhood of 
 London : but the Houfe ftands fo low, as not to be 
 feen until you come very near it ; and the River 
 Mole, running near the Back of the Houfe, renders 
 it very damp, which greatly diminiflies the Pleafure 
 of the Place, tho' there has been no Coft fpared to 
 render it elegant. 
 
 Near Efier, on the Left-hand of the great Road, 
 lies Claretnont, wliich was a fmall Floufe built under 
 a Hill covered with Wood, by the late Sir "John 
 Vanbrngh, and purchafed by his Grace the Duke of 
 NeivcaJIle^ who has been at a great Expence in beau- 
 tifying the Gardens, ^c. and has added to the Houfe 
 a great Extent of Buildings, in the fame Style witii 
 the original Houfe ; and has alfo built one large 
 Room, in which his Grace entertains Foreign Em- 
 bafTadors, and where all the magnificent Dinners 
 which the Duke makes in the Country, are fcrved 
 up. The Houfe is fituated fo near the Hill, that 
 the Moifture ifluing from thence, cccafions it to be 
 very damp ; and theWinds, being reverberated back 
 from the AVoods on the Houfe, caufe moft of the 
 Chimneys to fmoke, fo that this is a bad Habitation 
 L 6 la 
 
22 8 ^ TOUR thro' Surrey. 
 
 in Winter : but as it is the Place to which his Grace 
 iifually retires from publick Bufinefs, whenever his 
 Leifure will permit, he has not fpared Expence to 
 render it as agreeable as pofTible ; tho', as feveral Per- 
 fons have had the Contrivance of his Gardens and 
 Buildings, there is not any uniform Tafte to be 
 found in either, which is greatly to be regretted, 
 fince the noble Owner has been fo much intent on 
 having it worthy of himfelf. 
 
 From hence, turning on the Right towards the 
 River of Thames, we pafs Walton^ and Weybridge^ 
 where are feveral fine Seats ; but particularly thofe 
 of the Earls of Lincoln^ and Portmore. 
 
 In tlie firft of thefe is a noble Terrace-walk, ele- 
 vated fo high above the Level of the neighbouring 
 Ground, as to afford a Profpeft of the Country, as 
 alfo a View of the River. 
 
 The other Seat was beautified by the Countefs of 
 Dorchejler, in the Reign of King James II. Here 
 is a Walk planted with Acacia Trees, which at that 
 Ti me were eftecmed great Curiofities. 
 
 The Country hereabout is very low and flat, fo 
 that jn Winter the Meadows are generally flooded, 
 whicli renders the Air damp and cold, and the Roads 
 are fometimes almoft impafi:able ; but in Summer 
 the Meadows afford a good Qiiantity of Hay, which 
 fufficiently recompenfes the Owner for the Difad- 
 vantage of Situation. 
 
 Near Weyhridge is a pleafant fmall Seat, now in 
 the Poffeffion of Ph'tUp Soiithcoat, Efq; called Wo- 
 hQurn-far7n. The Houfe is fituated low, but is not 
 very damp ; and has the Advantage of being fcreen'd 
 from the Violence of ftrong Winds, by tall Trees in 
 the Neighbourhood. In the Front of the Houfe is 
 a fmall Ifland, which in Summer is ftocked with 
 Sheep, who are confl:antly feeding in View of the 
 principal Rooms of the Houfe. The Water fur- 
 rounding this Ifland is conduced in a ferpentine 
 
 Form, 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 229 
 
 Form, fo as to have little Refemblance to Art. The 
 Fields above the Houfe are kept very neat, being 
 rolled and fed ; fo that there is a fine Carpet of 
 Grafs, the Walks round them being made dry by 
 Gravel, and, on each Side, planted with fweet 
 Shrubs and Flowers, in a rural manner. At the 
 Upper-part of thefe Fields, is a Spot of Ground laid 
 out in Gardens, which, being too regular, do not 
 fo well correfpond with the other Parts, which are 
 laid out to anfwer the Name of a Farm, very pro- 
 perly : but this Part has fomething of too much 
 Stiffnefs and Regularity to agree with the reft. 
 
 From this Spot of Ground is a moft delightful 
 Profped over a large Extent of Meadows bounded 
 by the River Thames, which winds in an agreeable 
 manner ; and having frequently large Weft Country 
 Barges floating in it, with their broad Sails, appear 
 as fo many moving Objeds in a Pi£lure, and greatly 
 enliven the Profpe61:. 
 
 From hence alfo are feen Ten or Twelve Villages, 
 and feveral fine Houfes ; and Chertfey Bridge appears 
 as if it were intended for a principal Objeil. Indeed 
 the whole Spot may juftly be deemed one of the 
 fweeteft Retirements near London. 
 
 Keeping the River now on my Left, as I did be- 
 fore on my Right-hand, drawing nearer to London, 
 we came to Ham and Peterjham, little Villages ; the 
 firft, famous for a moft pleafant Palace of the late 
 Duke Lauder dale, clofeby the River, now poflelTed 
 by the Earl of Dyfert ; a Houfe King Charles II. 
 ufed to be frequently at, and was exceedingly pleafed 
 with. The Avenues of this fine Houfe to the 
 Land-fide, lead up to the End of the Village of 
 Peterjham, where the Wall of New Park comes alfo 
 clofe to the Town, on the other Side ; in an Angle 
 of which ftood a moft delicious Houfe, built by the 
 late Earl o'i Rochejler, Lord High Treaftirer in King 
 James II. 's Reign, as alfo in Part of Queen Anne\ 
 
 Reign, 
 
230 -.^ TOUR thro" Surrey; 
 
 Reign. This fine Houfe was burnt down in the 
 Year 1720, by an accidental Fire, fo fudden and 
 furious, that the Family, who were all at home 
 had Icarce time to fave their Lives 
 
 Nor was the Houfe tho' fo exquifitely finiflied, 
 fo beautiful withm and without, the greateft Lofs 
 fuftamed; the rich Furniture, the curious Colleftion 
 of Paintings, and the ineftimable Library of the firft 
 Larl of Clarendon,\.oxA Chancellor of England, and 
 Author of that moft excellent Hi^ry of the Rebellion, 
 of which the World knows fo much, were here wholl^ 
 confumed ; a Lofs irreparable, as the latter contained 
 among other valuable Things, feveral Manufcripts 
 relating to thofe Times, and to Things tranfaded 
 by himfelf and by the King his Mafter, both at 
 Home and Abroad, befides other rare and curious 
 Colledions made by that noble and learned Author 
 m foreign Countries. 
 
 The Offices efcaped the Fate the Houfe met with • 
 and on the fame Spot of Ground, where the Houfe 
 flood, the Right Honourable the Lord Harrington, 
 Secretary of State, erefted another, after the Defign 
 ot the Right Honourable the Earl of Burlington : and 
 when I have faid this, I need not fay it is equally a 
 convenient and elegant Edifice. The Front indeed 
 next the Court, has not a very ftrikipg Appearance, 
 being very plain, and the Entrance into the Houfe 
 not greatly tobepraifed : But the South Front next 
 the Garden, tho' very plain, yet is bold and regular. 
 1 he Apartments next the Garden, which are chieflv 
 defigned for State, are alfo very elegant, and beauti- 
 lully hnilned. 
 
 l^he Gardens, which before were crouded with 
 Pluntations near the Houfe, are now laid open in 
 Lawns of Grafs; and the Kitchen-garden, which 
 was fituated on the Eaft-fide of the Houfe, 15 re- 
 moved out of Sight, and that Ground is now con- 
 verted to an open Slope of Grafs, which leads up to 
 
 a Ter- 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 231 
 
 aTerrace of great Length ; from which is a Profped 
 of the River Thames, the Town oi Twickenham, Tind. 
 all the beautiful Seats round about that Part of the 
 Country, almoft to Kingjion-brtdge. On the other 
 Side of the Terrace, on a rifing Ground, is a large 
 Plantation of Wood ; and on the Summit of the 
 Hill is erefted a finePleafure-houfe, which commands 
 a Profpea of the Country every Way, for many 
 Miles ; fo that by Foreigners this View is efteemed 
 the moft beautiful of any near London 
 
 From hence we came to Richmond, lately the de- 
 licrhtful Retreat of his Majefty and his Royal Con- 
 fo'^rt the Queen, who took great Delight therein to 
 the Time of her Death ; and made not only valt 
 Improvements and Alterations there, but purchafed 
 feveral fine Houfes on Kew-green ; as that of Lady 
 - Eyre, for his Royal Highnefs the Duke ; that of Sir 
 Thomas Abney for the Princeffes ; and his Royal High- 
 nefs Prince Frederick, meanwhile, made confiderable 
 Improvements in the fine Houfe and Gardens belong- 
 in^ formerly to the Lady Capll ; while her Majefty 
 w?s ufed to divert herfelf at her Royal Dairy-houfe, 
 and in her beautiful Hermitage, Merlin's Cave, and m 
 other charming Improvements, which fhe made in 
 the Park and Gardens of this delightful Place. All 
 which are fo well known, that we need not infill 
 
 upon them. rn i 
 
 The Court, being fo near, muft needs have hlled 
 Rich?nond, which was before a moft agreeable Re- 
 treat for the firft and fecond-rate Gentry, with a 
 great deal of the beft Company in Engla?id. And 
 indeed this Town, and the Country all round it, 
 have much increafed in Buildings lately. 
 
 The Lord Vifcount Palmerjion, the worthy Son 
 and Succeflbr to the Honour and Eftate of the great 
 Sir TViUiam Te Ae, has a fine Seat and Gardens 
 (hard by) Sheen: The Gardens were finifiied, as 
 well as contrived, by the great Genius of ^kJViUiom, 
 
 and 
 
212' ^ TOUR thro" Surrey. 
 
 and as they were his laft Delight in Life, fo they were' 
 every way fuited to be fo, to a Man of hisSenfe and 
 Capacity, who knew what kind of Life was beft 
 fitted to make a Man's laft Days happy 
 
 .1.^^'' J'^V^f^S '^'^''i?' '^'^ beauty with which 
 the Banks of the Thames fhine on either Side of the 
 Kiver from hence to London, much more than our 
 Anceftors, even but one Age ago, knew any thing 
 of. If for pleafant Villages, great Houfes, Palaces! 
 Gardens, it was true in Queen Elizabeth'l 
 1 ime, according to the Poet, that 
 
 The Thames with Royal Tyhex may compare ; 
 
 What may be faid of it now ? when, for One fine 
 Houfe to be feen then, there are, for aught I know, 
 an hundred even as you fit in a Boat, and pafs up 
 and down the River. 
 
 ^^/5%''^SiP"'"g Ham-houfe, as above, Rich- 
 mond Palace falutes the Eye, being formerly no more 
 than a Lodge in the Park, but now makes a Royal 
 rigure. ^ 
 
 y'^'J^^f^^'^^'^d to London the River Sides abound 
 with Villages, and thofe Villages fo full of beautiful 
 Buildings, charming Gardens, and rich Habitations 
 of Gentlemen of Quality, that nothing can equal it ; 
 no, not the Country for 20 Miles round Paris, tho' 
 that indeed is a kind of Prodigy. 
 
 It is^ impofTible to view th?fe Countries from any 
 f , I ^/''^J'^'^^^J^^^ be raviflied with the delight- 
 ful Profpea. For Example, Suppofe you take your 
 View from the little rifmg Hills about ClapharL if 
 you look to the Eaft, there you fee the pleafant 
 Villages of P.,^/,.^;;^ and Camherwell, with fome of 
 the fineft Dwellings about London : then turning 
 bouth, we {tt Loughborough Houfe near Kennington\ 
 tne Duchefs of Bedfordh at Btretham ; other fine 
 beats about Croydon ; a whole Town of fine Houfes 
 at Lq/ha/ton i Sir Nico/as Carew's and others, at 
 
 Bedding fon j 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 233 
 
 Beddington ; Sir Theodore Janjfen% and that lately 
 built by the Duchefs Dowager of Marlborough, at 
 mmbleton ; other fine Houfes at Tooting ; befides a 
 very great Number in C/^/)/'^;;? itfelf.. On the South- 
 weft alfo you have Mr. Harvey's at Coo?nb, formerly 
 the Palace of the afore-mentioned Make-king, Earl 
 of Warwick, and from him cdXltdiCoombnevil ; with 
 all the Villages mentioned above, and the Country 
 ' adjoining, filled with the Palaces of the Britijh No- 
 biUty and Gentry already fpoken of ; looking North, 
 behold, to crown all, a fair Profpeft of the City of 
 London, the moft glorious Sights without Exception, 
 that the World at prefent can fliew, or perhaps 
 could fince the Sacking of Rome. 
 
 It is impoffible in one Journey to dcfcribe efFedtu- 
 ally this Part of the County of Surrey, lying from 
 Kingflon to London and Greenwich, where I fet 
 out : that is, including the Villages of R{ch?nond, 
 PeterJham,EaJiJheen, Mortlake, Putney, Wandfworth, 
 \ Barn- elms, Batterfea, Wimbleton, Tooting, Clapham, 
 Camberwell, Peckham and Deptford ; and I muft 
 therefore quit the ample Subjeft, and come to South- 
 wark, a Suburb to, rather than a Part of London^ : 
 but of which this may be faid with Juftice, that it 
 would be 
 
 J Royal City, were not London hy. 
 To give you a brief Defcription of Southwark, it 
 might be called a long Street, of about Nine Miles 
 in Length, as it is now built on Eaftward ; reaching 
 from Vaux-hall to London-bridge, and from the 
 Bridge to Deptford, and up to Deptford Bridge, 
 which parts it from Greenwich, all the Way wind- 
 ing and turning as the River does ; except only in 
 that Part, which reaches from Cuckold's- point to 
 Deptford^ which winds fomewhat more than the 
 River. 
 
 In 
 
m ^TOUR/W Sarrey. 
 
 T/'ich is oppofite to the Bridge it 
 
 near a Mile broad; t./^. from the Bridge to the End 
 and BlacMan-Jirea, and about the 
 
 TheBorough of Southward is exceeding populous. 
 Nine P..-n''T b«""^ed, it contained 
 
 with DA ?''^' IS no^ extended, and joins 
 
 With D./>/W contanis Eleven large Parifhes. 
 
 fl./?. • ; "^'^^^'^^ confulerable, is at 
 
 Koad turns away t« go from Faux- I / Turnpike 
 towards iV....;.^/.;,. There are the Remains of the 
 l^ines caft up m the Time of the which 
 
 7o 'Zrr^ VV^'^ ^'''^ ^ Fortification 
 
 to this Part of the Town ; at the Corner was a very 
 large Baftron, or Fort, which commanded the Pafs 
 on tnat Side ; and farther on, at the Corner of 
 George s-fields, by the Ducking Pond, was an- 
 other ; the Water of what is now called the Duck- 
 tng Fond Ml appears to have been the Moat to the 
 i;ort ; and the Lines are ftill fo high, and undemo- 
 Jilhed, that It would be no difficuk Matter to repair 
 and perfea them again. 
 
 ^ That this was formerly a Roman Camp or Station, 
 IS plain from the many Roman Urns and Coins, 
 Upera Tejfellata, and other Antiquities, which have 
 been frequently dug up hereabouts. And as there 
 are pretty good Authorities of antient Zi.«^^« Ivin? 
 on the South-fide of the Thames, it is but a rea- 
 lonable Conjefture, that thefe Lines were caft up 
 and fortified, to prevent thelncurfions of the Britons 
 mto Kent-, for the Mihtary Way crofTed the River 
 at the Horfe-ferry at Lambeth, from thence pro- 
 ceeded to Faux-hall, then turned round to the 
 nuckmg Pond, went on to the Wind-mill in St 
 ^eorge s-fields, where it croffed the Road to the 
 l^-nd of Kent-Jlreeti where there was a very ftrong 
 
 Forti- 
 
Surrey. Great Britain. 2^$ 
 
 Fortification of Stone, the Foundations of which 
 were dug up in the Year 1685 ; this ran crofs a 
 Garden about a Qciarter of a Mile from the Stories- 
 end. In digging up of this Foundation there appeared 
 two antient Pillars of a large Gate ; upon each of 
 them had been placed Heads with two Faces cunou ly 
 cut in Stone, one of which was taken up ; but the 
 other lying in a Quickfand, fi'om whence the Sprmgs 
 flowed ou? pretty freely, was rendered more difficult 
 to be taken up ; and the Curiofity of the People be- 
 ing not very great, they contented themfelves with 
 getting up one of the Heads ; which was placed 
 over the Gardener's Door, where it remained for 
 feveral Years, until it was known to the Learned 
 Dr. Woodward, who purchafed it, and kept it m 
 his valuable Colleaion of Curiofities. Thefe Lines 
 were drawn from hence to tht Grange near Bermond- 
 fer/ireet ; where you fee another Fort fo plain, and 
 fo undemoliihed, (the Grafs now growing over the 
 Works, and tho', on the Baftion itfelf, there is 
 frequently Corn fowed) that it is almoft as viiible 
 as it was when it was firft thrown down. By the 
 Direftion of thefe Lines, it is very manifest, that 
 Southwark was once well fortified ; for thefe Lines 
 feem to have been thrown up from the Ibames at 
 Lambeth, quite round to the Thames zt Deptford', 
 which takes in the whole Extent, on the Lands and 
 the rha7nes was a Barrier on the other Side. 
 
 A farther Defcriptlon of Southwark I refer till I 
 come to fpeak of London, as one general Appellation 
 for the Two Cities of London and Wejiminjter ; tor 
 all the Borough of Southwark, and all the Buildmgs 
 and Villages included within the Bills of Mortality, 
 make but one London, in the general Appellation, 
 I am, (5V. 
 
 LET, 
 
Middx.' 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 ABefcription of Fart of the County of 
 Middlesex, Fart of Hants, and the 
 County of Wilts, ^g. 
 
 S I came down from Kingjion, in my 
 laft Circuit, by the South Bank of the 
 Thames, on the Surrey Side of the 
 River ; fo I go up to Hampton-court^ 
 "o^' on the North Bank, and on 
 u r , J ? Middlefex Side ; which I mention, 
 becaufe, as the Sides of the Country bordering on thi 
 Xiver he parallel, fo the Beauty of the Country, the 
 pleafant Situations, the Splendor of innumerable fine 
 Buildings NoblemensandGentlemens Houfes, and 
 Citizens Retreats, are fo equal a Match to what I 
 had defcribed on the other Side, that one knows 
 not to which to give the Preference : but as I muft 
 Ipeak of them again, when I come to write of the 
 bounty oi Middlefex, which I have now purpofely 
 omitted ; I pafs them over here, except the Palace 
 Hampton only, which I mentioned m Middle- 
 Jexy for the Reafons above. 
 
 Hampton^ 
 
Middx. Great Britain. 237 
 
 Hampton- court lies on the North Bank of the 
 River Thames^ about Two fmall Miles from Ktngjlon. 
 It was built by Cardinal Wolfey, and fell to the- 
 Crown, when the King feized his EfFeds and Eftate, 
 as did alfo Whitehall, another Houfe of the Cardinal's 
 building. 
 
 Whoever knew Hampton-court before it was begun 
 to be rebuilt, or alter'd, by the late King JVilliam, 
 muft acknowledge, it was a very complete Palace 
 then, and fit for a King ; and tho' it might not, 
 according to the modern Method of Building, or of 
 Gardening, pafs for a'Thing exquifitely fine, yet it 
 fhewed a Situation exceedingly capable of Improve- 
 ment, and of being made one of the moft delightful 
 Palaces in Europe. 
 
 This her Majefty Queen Mary was fo fenfible of, 
 that while the King had ordered the pulling down 
 the old Apartments, and building them up in that 
 moft beautiful Form, which we fee them now 
 appear in, her Majefty, impatient of enjoying fo 
 agreeable a Retreat, fixed upon a Building formerly 
 made ufe of chiefly for landing from the River, 
 and therefore called the Water Gallery ; here (he 
 ordered all the little, neat, curious Things to be done, 
 which fuited her own- Conveniency, and made it the 
 pleafanteft little Place within Doors, that could pof- 
 fibly be made; tho' its Situation would not allow it 
 to ftand after the great Building was finifhcd. 
 
 The Qiieen had here her Gallery of Beauties, 
 being the Piaures, at full Length, of the principal 
 Ladies in her Retinue. Her Majefty's Apartments 
 for her private Retreat only, were exquifitely fur- 
 nilhed, and there were among the Furniture leveral 
 curious Pieces of her own Work. 
 
 The Ground on the South-weft Side of the 
 Building, has received many Alterations fince the 
 pulling "down of the Water-gallery (which ftood 
 before this handfome Front of the Houfe, and inter- 
 cepted 
 
238 ^TOUR/W Mlddx. 
 
 cepted the Profpeft of it from the River) This 
 bpot was then laid out into fmalJ Inclofures, fur- 
 rounded wzth tall Hedges, to break the Violence of 
 theWinds, and render them proper for the Reception 
 of fuch Exotick Plants in Summer, as were removed 
 out of the Confervatones during that Seafon. In 
 each of thefe Places is contrived a Bafon, which is 
 conftantlyfupplied with Water for the Support of 
 thefe Plants m dry Weather; and as thefe are fituated 
 near the great Apartments, moft of the Plants 
 may be viewed from the Windows : and the lower 
 ^art of the Houfe, imder the great Apartments, 
 bemg contrived for a Greenhoufe, the Plants need 
 Tiot be carried far, when they are removed out 
 or into the Confervatory, which was very properly 
 contrived by the Defigners. J f t y 
 
 At the Weft-end of this Spot was a large Plot- 
 hqule, for the maintaining fuch tender Exotick 
 riants, as require a large Share of Warmth to pre- 
 ferve them in this Climate. Of all thefe Parts of 
 Gardening Queen Mary was fo verv fond, that fhe 
 allowed a handfome Salary to Dr. P/uj^enet, ; very 
 
 learned Botanift, for overlooking and reajfte'rincr the 
 curious Colleaion of Plants, which w°ere then in 
 ur^!: ''\ ^>nce the Death of that Qiieen, 
 thefe Things have been fo much neglefted, tlmverv 
 tew of the moft curious Plants are now in Being 
 there, which is much to be lamented ; for, Iiowever 
 theTafte for this Part of Gardening may have with 
 Reafon been neglefted by private Perfons, yet, 
 ■furely, at a Royal Palace, all thefe Things ftiouldbe 
 kept up in the utmoft Magnificence, as an Encou^ 
 mgement to Ingenuity, and for the Honour of the 
 Kmgdom. 7 his Tafte was, by Lewis XIV. of 
 I^rance, carried to a very great Height; and had the 
 lerfons employed by that Prince been fo well ac^ 
 quamted with the Conftruaion of thefe Conferva-^ 
 tones, as many of the are at this Day, w^ 
 
Middx. Great Britain. 239 
 
 mieht have expefted, in his Royal Gardens, to have 
 feen moft of the curious Plants in the known Parts 
 of the World. 
 
 Here fland advanced, on Tvi'o Pedeftals of Stone, 
 Two Marble Vafes, or Flower-pots, of exquifite 
 Workmanftiip ; the one done by an EngUJhman^ and 
 the other by a German. 'Tis hard to fay which is the 
 beft Performance, tho' the doing of it was a kind of 
 Trial of Skill between them ; but it gives us room, 
 without any Partiality ^ to fay they were both Matters 
 
 of their Art. , r i. 
 
 The Parterre on that Side defcends from the 1 er- 
 race-walk by Steps, and on the Left a Terrace 
 goes down to the Water-fide, overlooking the Garr 
 den on the Eaftward Front, and affords a moft plea? 
 fant Profpeft. 
 
 This Part of the Garden was at firft laid out m a 
 Parterre of Scroll-work in Box, which was not only 
 very coftly at firft making, but was alfo very cxt 
 penfive in keeping conftantly clipped ; which, to- 
 gether with the ill Scent, which frequently reached 
 ^o the Royal Apartments, pccafioned its being de- 
 molifhed, and the Grounddifpofed into another Form. 
 And if at the fame time all the fhorn ever-green 
 Trees had been thrown out, and a finer Difpofition 
 made of the Ground, it would have much better 
 correfponded with the noble Apartments which over- 
 look it, than it does at prefent. 
 
 On the North Side of the Houfe, where the 
 Chapel, and fome Part of the old Buildings, required 
 to be covered from View, the Ground was laid out 
 in a Wildernefs, with ^ Labyrinth furrounded by 
 high Efpalier Hedges ; and this was, at that time, 
 thought one of the fineft difpofed Parts of the Gar- 
 den. But as the whole Contrivance of the Plan- 
 tations is in regular ftrait Walks, bounded on each 
 Side by tall clipped Hedges, which divide the whole 
 iLiround into angular Quarters,, to every Perfon of 
 
 Tafte 
 
240 ^rOVKtbro' Middx. 
 
 Tafte it muft be very far from afFording any Pleafure 
 fince nothing can be more difagreeable than to be 
 imniured between Hedges, fo as to have the Eve 
 confined to a ftrait Walk, and the Beauty of the 
 Irees growmg in the Quarters, intirely fecluded 
 from the Eye And at the fame time as you are 
 walking m this unmeaning Plantation, you are 
 denied the Benefit of Shade, by being confined to 
 thefe regular Walks, where it would be deemed an 
 unpardonable Fault, to fufFer the neighbouring Trees 
 to difFufe their Branches over thefe fliorn Hedges: 
 fo that, in the midft of a Wood, a Perfon may hm[ 
 for Shade in a fultry Day, the Air being excluded 
 from thefe Walks by the taller Trees in the Quarters : 
 and pent up Air is much more troublefome in hot 
 Weather, than the Heat of the Sun in the moft 
 open expofed Plain. 
 
 As this Wildernefs lies oppofite to Bufhy-park, fo 
 there was defigned a grand Entrance thro' it to the 
 Palace fronting the Gates of the Park ; where 
 1 wo large Pillars were ereaed, to fupport a mao-- 
 nihcent Iron Gate, which was defigned to have beSi 
 put up there ; but how it came to be left unfiniflied, 
 and the pitiful low Gates (which by no means cor- 
 refpond with the Pillars) put in the Place, I could 
 never learn. 
 
 The Houfeitfelf is every way anfwerable on the 
 Outiide to the beautiful Profpe^, and the Two 
 fronts are the largeft, and, beyond Comparifon, the 
 lineft of the kind in England. The great Stairs go 
 up from the fecond Court of the Palace on the Rio-ht- 
 hand, and lead you to the South Profpea. 
 
 King William brought into England, and placed 
 here inaGallery, built purpofejyfor them,the famous 
 Cartoons, as they are called, which are Five Pieces 
 of fuch 1 amtings, as are not to be match'd in En- 
 rope. It is reported, but with what Truth, I know 
 not, that the late French King offer'd 100,000 Louis 
 
Surrey. GreatBritain. 241 
 
 ^'Ors for thefe Pidures. The King brought a great 
 many other fine Pieces to England^ and from him 
 the Love of fine Paintings fo univerfally fpread itfelf 
 among the Nobility and Perfons of Figure all over 
 the Kingdom, that it is incredible what Colle£tions 
 have been made by EngUJ}) Gentlemen fince that 
 Time ; and how all Europe has been romaged, as 
 we may fay, for Piftures to bring over hither, where, 
 for Twenty Years together, they brought in vaft 
 Profit to fuch as colleded them for Sale. But the 
 Rates are abated fince, and we are now glutted with 
 the Copies and Frauds of the Dutch and FlemiJI) 
 Painters, who have impofed grofly upon us. 
 
 Queen Mary lived not to fee this Palace com- 
 pletely finifh'd ; and, 'tis faid. King WiUia?n de~ 
 fign'd to have made it more capacious and noble, had 
 he lived. 
 
 After the Death of King William ^ Ha7npton^ 
 Court feem'd in a manner neglected. It is an Ob- 
 fervation made by fome, that Hampton Court has, 
 ever fince the Time of King Charles I. been fa- 
 voured by every alternate Prince ; King Charles I. 
 delighting in Country Retirements, took great Plea- 
 fure here, and, had he liv'd, had purpofed to im- 
 prove it confiderably j but it became at laft one of 
 his Prifons. 
 
 King Charles II. may well be faid to have a Dif- 
 like to the Place, for the Treatment his Royal Fa- 
 ther met with there ; and particularly as Cromwell 
 afterwards made it his Summer Refidence. He there- 
 fore chofe Windfor^ and beftow'd a vafi: Sum in beau- 
 tifying the Caftle there, which brought it to the 
 PerfeSion we fee it in at this Day, fome few Al- 
 terations excepted, made in the Time of King Wil- 
 liam. 
 
 King James took but little Delight in retired 
 Palaces, his Bent and Tafte incliniiig another way. 
 Vol. I. M £ut 
 
242 ^ T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 But King William fix'd upon Hatnpton- Court, and 
 improv'd it as before-mention'd. 
 
 Queen Anne being taken up for one Part of her 
 Reign, in her kind Regards to the Prince her Spoufe, 
 was obliged to confult his Health, and refide where 
 that confin'd him, which for the moft part was at 
 Kenftngton^ where he died ; but her Majeftv always 
 difcover'd her Delight for Windfor^ where fhe chofe 
 the little Houfe, as 'twas call'd, oppohte to the 
 Caftle, and frequently took the Air in her Chaife in 
 the Parks and Foreft. 
 
 In the Reign of King George 1. Ha?npton-Court 
 came into Requeft again. 
 
 From Hampton-Court^ I direfted my Courfe for a 
 Journey into the South-weft Part of England \ and, 
 to take up my Beginning where I concluded my laft, 
 I crofs'd to Chertfey on the Thames^ a Town I men- 
 tion'd before ; from whence croffing the Black De- 
 fart of Bagjhot^ I took in my Way to Hampjhire^ 
 Ockingham in Berkjhire, lying on the Skirts of JVind- 
 for Forejl : it is a pretty large Town, and has a 
 well-frequented Market, and a good Market-houfe 
 in the Middle. It is govern'd by an Alderman, 
 Recorder and Burgefles, has a Free-fchool, and like- 
 wife an Hofpital, with a Chaplain belonging to it. 
 It carries on a good Trade in Silk Stockens and 
 
 Cloth. -n r a r 
 
 From hence I fell down towards Bafingjloke ^ 
 which is fituate in the midft of Woods, and rich 
 fertile Paftures : the Country round about is fpread 
 with the Houfes of the Nobility and Gentry. A 
 little before we came to the Town, we pafs'd by 
 a Houfe built out of the Ruins, and on the Scite 
 ^iOld Bafmg-houfe^ a famous Fortrefs in the Time 
 of the Civil Wars, belonging to the then Marquis 
 of Winchejler^ Anceftor of the Duke of Bolton. 
 
 This 
 
Hants, Great Britain, 245; 
 
 This Houfe, garifori'd by a refolute Band of 0I4 
 Soldiers, under the Command of the Marquis, was 
 a great Curb to the Parliament Party throughout 
 that whole War ; till, after a vigorous Defence, ii; 
 Was taken, and the brave Mar4uis in it, by Crom-^ 
 well, who, in Revenge for the obftinate Refiftance 
 it made, put almoft all the Garifon to the Sword, 
 and burnt down the noble Fabrick to the Ground, 
 which he faid was fitter for the Refidence of zv% 
 Emperor than a Subjeft. The prefent Houfe is in 
 no wife equal to the Magnificence which Fame gives 
 to the antient Houfe ; whofe Strength of Building 
 was fuch as to refift the Battery of Cannon in feve^ 
 ral Attacks. 'Tis incredible what Booty the Gari-» 
 fon of this Place pick'd up, lying, as they did, juft 
 on the great Weftern Road, where they intercepted 
 the Carriers, plunder'd the Waggons, and fufFer'di 
 nothing to pafs ; to the great Interruption of thq 
 Trade of the City of London. 
 
 Baftngjioke is a Corporation, and a large populous 
 Town: it has a good Market for Corn, efpe-^ 
 cially Barley, as there are a great many Maltfters 
 there. Some few Years agoa Manufaftureof making 
 Druggets and Shalloons, was fet up here, and as 
 fuccefsfully carried on, which employs a great Num- 
 ber of poor People. 
 
 Near this Town a bloody Battle was fought in 
 871, between the Saxons and Danes. 
 
 From this Town the great Weftern Road goes on 
 to Whitchurch, a. mean Town, which however has a 
 Market, and is govern 'd by a Mayor. North -eaft 
 of which lyes Kingfclere, a pleafant Market- town 
 on the Oxford Road from Bafin^Jloke. It was an- 
 tiehtly famous for having been the Seat of the Saxon 
 Kings, and from thence" takes its Name. 
 
 But I had like to have forgot the famous 
 domia, or SUcheJier, which is fituated in Hants., 
 M 2 on 
 
244 ^ T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 on the Borders of Berk/hire^ and is famous for its An- 
 tiquity.' 
 
 Its Situation is very high, hid with Wood. Many 
 were the Roman Roads which met here, tho' now 
 fcarce any ; which is one Reafon why 'tis fo httle 
 known : another is its want of Inns for the Accom- 
 modation of Travellers ; for Alderniajton^ a pretty 
 neat Village, beautifully fituated, which is Three 
 Miles diftant, is the neareft Town where Lodging 
 is to be found. The W alls of this City are ftanding, 
 more or lefs perfed, quite round j perhaps the moft 
 intire in the Roman Empire, efpecially the North- 
 fide, which is a moft agreeable Sight. It is com- 
 pofed of Flint and Rag-ftone. There was a broad 
 Ditch quite round, and now almoft impaflable, and 
 full of Springs. Here-and- there Roman Bricks are 
 left in the Walls. Tho' on the Outfide they are of 
 a confiderable Height, yet the Ground within is fo 
 raifed, as nearly to be equal to the Top, and that 
 quite round cover'd with Oaks, and other Timber- 
 trees, of no mean Bulk. Conjiantius, the Son of 
 Conjlantine the Great, is faid to have built it, and 
 fow'd Corn in the Track of the Walls, as an Omen 
 of their Perpetuity. Now indeed the whole City 
 is arable, and in the Fields Roman Bricks, and other 
 Reliquesj are fcatter'd, and Coins daily found. It 
 has only one Farm-houfe and a Church. The 
 Reverend and Learned Mr. Betham, late Minifter of 
 this Place, is buried under the North Wall of the 
 Chancel without-fide ; within is another Monu- 
 ment of a Perfon of Quality. They both were 
 drown'd in Fleet-ditch. A Spring rifes from under 
 the Wall of the Church-yard. 
 
 Five hundred Feet without the City, on the 
 North- eaft Side, is a great Curiofity, which the Vul- 
 gar think was a Caftle, but in reality an Amphi- 
 theatre, in all refpe(^s like th^t of Dorchejier. This 
 
 jioble 
 
Hants. Gr EAT B R I TAIN. 
 
 noble Antiquity has from Time immemorial been a 
 Yard for Cattle, and a Watering-pond ; fo that it is 
 a Wonder their Trampling has not defaced it much 
 more than it has. My Refolution being to take in my 
 Way what I had pafs'd by before, I was obliged to go 
 off to the Left-hand, to Alresford and Winchcjler. 
 
 Alresford was a flourifliing Market- town, and tho' 
 it had no great Trade, and very little, if any, Ma- 
 nufaftures, yet, what is very remarkable, there was 
 no Colledtion made in tlie Town for the Poor, nor 
 any low enough to take Alms of the Parifti. 
 
 But this happy Circumflance, which fo diftin- 
 guifh'd Alresford from all her Neighbours, was 
 brought to an End in 1710, when, by a fudden and 
 furprifmg Fire, the whole Town, with both the 
 Church and Marke--houfe, was reduced to a Heap 
 of Rubbifti ; and, except a few poor Huts at the 
 remoteft Ends of the Town, not a Houfe left {land- 
 ing. The Town is fmce very handfomely rebuilt, 
 and the neighl^uring Gentlemen contributed largely 
 to the Relief of the People, efpecially by fending 
 in Timber towards their Building. 
 
 Here is a very large Pond, or Lake of Water, 
 kept up to a Head by a ftrong Battre d'eau^ or 
 Dam, which, 'tis faid, was made by the Romans ; 
 and is part of the great Roman Highway, which 
 leads from JVincheJler to Alton^ and, as fuppofed, on 
 to London^ tho' we no-where fee any Remains of 
 it, except between Winchejier and Alton^ and chiefly 
 between this Town and the laft mention'd. 
 
 Near this Town, a little North-weft, the Duke 
 of Bolton has another Seat, which tho' not large, is 
 a very handfome beautiful Palace, and the Gardens 
 not only very exadt, but very finely fituate, the Pro- 
 fpeft and Vifta's noble and great, and the Whole 
 very well kept. His Grace has no lefs than Three 
 Seats almoft within Sight of one another, viz. Ab- 
 botjioney Bajing, and Hawkwood. 
 
 M 3 From 
 
54^ ^ T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 From hence at the End of , Seven Miles over the 
 iDowns^ we come to the very antient City of Win- 
 thejier, called in Britijh Caer Gwent^ which figni- 
 lies the white Town, from the chalky Hills near 
 it. Not only the great f!hurch, which is fo famous 
 all over Europe^ and has been fo much talk'd of, but 
 even the whole City, has, at a Diftance, a venerable 
 and antient Face ; and yet here are many modern 
 Buildings too, and fome very handfome ; as the 
 College Schools, with the Epifcopal Palace, built 
 by Bifliop Morley^ fmce the Civil Wars ; the old 
 Palace of the Bifhop having been ruined by that 
 known Church-Incendiary, Sir William Waller^ and 
 his Crew of Plunderers ; who, if my Information 
 \t riot wrong, deftroy'd more Monuments of the 
 Dead, and defac*d more Churches, than all theRound- 
 hedds in England befide, 
 
 This Church, and the Schools alfo, are accurately 
 defcrlb'd by feyeral Writers, efpecially by the Mo- 
 najikon, where their Antiquity and Original is fully 
 fet forth : the Outfide of the Church is as plain and 
 coarfe, as if the Founders had abhorr'd Ornaments. 
 There is neither Statue, nor a Niche for a Statue, to 
 be feen on all the Outfide, no carv'dWork, no Spires, 
 Towers, Pinacles, Baluftrades, or any thing but mere 
 Walls, ButtrefTes, Windows, and Quoins, necef- 
 fary to the Support and Order of the Building : it 
 has no Steeple, but a fhort Tower coverM flat, as 
 if the Top of it had fallen down, and it had been 
 tover'd in hafte to keep the Rain out, till they had 
 Time to build it up again. 
 
 But the Infide of the Church has many very good 
 things in it, and worth Obfervation ; it was for 
 fome Ages the Burying-place of many Englijh y 
 Saxon^ and Norman Kings ; whofe Remains the im- 
 pious Soldiers, in the Civil Wars, threw againft the 
 painted Glafs. The Reliques of fome of thefe, at 
 the Repair of the Church, were collected by Bifhop 
 
Hants. Great Britain. 247 
 
 Fox^ and, being put together into Six large wooden 
 Chefts, lin'd with Lead, were again interr'd at the 
 Foot of the great Wall in the Choir, Three on one 
 Side, and Three on the other ; with an Account 
 whofe Bones are in each Cheft, viz. Rufus^ Egbert^ 
 Jdulphus, Edredus^ Edmundus^ Canutus, and thofe 
 of Qiieen Emma. Queen Mary was here marry'd 
 to Philip of Spain. The Chair ufed in that Cere- 
 mony is ftill preferv'd. In the Body of the Church 
 is a pretty Crofs of Gothick Workmanfhip, but ill 
 repair'd. The Steps afcending to the Choir make a 
 hne Shew, having the Statues of King Jam(S I» 
 and his Son Charles, in Copper, finely caft ; the 
 firft on the- Right-hand, and the other on the Left, 
 as you go up to the Choir. 
 
 The Choir is faid to be the longeft in England. 
 The Ornaments of the Choir are the EfFeds of the 
 Bounty of feveral Bifhops; the fine Altar (the no- 
 bleft in Englandhy much) was given byBifhop Mor- 
 ley j the Roof, and the Coat of Arms of the Saxoii 
 and Norman Kings, by Biftiop Fox ; and the fine 
 Throne for the Bi&op in the Choir, was given by 
 Bifiiop Mew in his Life- time; and it was well it 
 was ; for if he had order'd it by Will, there is Rea-- 
 fon to believe it had never been done ; that Reverend 
 Prelate, notwithftanding he enjoy'd fo rich a Bi- 
 ihoprick, fcarce leaving Money enough behind him 
 to pay for his Coffin. 
 
 There are a great many Perfons of Rank buried 
 in this Church, befides the Saxon Kings mention'd 
 above ; particularly, here lies, as they told us, un- 
 der a grey Marble, Lucius, the firft Chriftian King 
 of this Ifland, who dy'd i8o Years after Chrift ; 
 and, as is pretended, founded the Church where the 
 Cathedral nowftands. There are alfo the Monuments 
 of Bifoop Fox, Founder of Corpus Chrijii College, 
 Oxon ; Biftiop Wainfleet., Founder of Magdalen Col- 
 lege, in the fame Univerfity ; in Regard to whofe 
 M 4 Memory 
 
248 ^ T O U R thro' Hants. 
 
 Memory the faid College keep his Monument in 
 lieat Repair. He is reprefented lying at length with 
 a Heart in his Hand. The Tomb of William of 
 Wickham^ the magnificent Founder of this Cathe- 
 dral, very richly gilt. Juft under the Altar lies a 
 Son of William the Conqueror^ without any Monu- 
 ment ; and behind the Altar, under a very fine Mo- 
 nument, lies the famous Lord Treafurer Wejlon^ 
 Earl of Portland^ Lord High Treafurer of England in 
 the Reign of King Charles \. His Effigies is in 
 Copper Armour, at full Length, with his Head 
 rais'd on Three Curnions of the fame, and is a very 
 magnificent Work. There is alfo a very fine Monu- 
 ment of Cardinal Beaufort^ in his Cardinal's Robes 
 and Hat. 
 
 The Monument of Sir John Cloberry deferves 
 Notice more for his Story, than for any thing ex- 
 traordinary in the Figure. This Gentleman was the 
 Perfon folely entrufted with the Secret of the Re- 
 ftoration of King Charles H. as the Meflenger that 
 pafs'd between General Monk on one hand, and 
 Mr. Montague, and others intrufted by King Cha. 11. 
 on the other ; by which Service Sir "John, then a 
 private Mufqueteer only, raiTed himfelf to the Ho- 
 nour of a Knight, with the Reward of a good 
 Eftate from the Bounty of the King. 
 
 It may not be amifs to fay a Word or two of the 
 famous William of Wickham, who built the Body of 
 the Church. 
 
 He was a Courtier before a Bifliop ; and tho' he 
 had no large Share of Learning, he was a great Pro- 
 moter of it : his natural Genius was much beyond 
 his acquired Parts, and his Skill in Politicks beyond 
 his Ecclefiaftick Knowledge. He is faid to have put 
 his Mafter, King Edward 111. to whom he was 
 Secretary of State, upon the Two great Proje6i:s 
 which made his Reign fo glorious ; viz. (i.) Upon 
 fetting up his Claim to the Crown of France, which 
 
 brought 
 
Hants. Great Brita IN. 249 
 
 brought on the War with France^ in which that 
 Prince was three times vi£lorious in Battle. (2.) 
 Upon inftituting the Order of the Garter ; in which 
 he obtain'd the Honour for the Bifhops of Winchc- 
 Jier to be always Prelates of the Order, as an Ap- 
 pendix to the Bifhoprick ; and he himfelf was the 
 firft : the Enfigns of that Honour are join'd with 
 his Epifcopal Ornaments, in the robing of his Effi- 
 gies on the Monument above. 
 
 To the great Honour of this Bifhop there are 
 other Foundations of his, as much to his Fame as 
 that of this Church, of which I fliall fpeak in their 
 Places, but particularly the College in this City, 
 - which is a noble Foundation indeed. The Buildmg 
 confifts of Two large Courts, in which are the 
 ' Lodgings for the Maiters and Seventy Scholars, and 
 in the Centre a very noble Chapel ; beyond that, in 
 the fecond Court, are the Schools, with a large 
 Cloifter beyond them, and fome Inclofures laid open 
 for the Diverfion of the Scholars. There alfo is a 
 great Hall, where the Scholars dine. In the Chapel 
 ■ Window belonging to the College is good painted 
 Glafs of Imagery. In the middle of the Cloiflers is 
 the Library, a ftrong Stone Building, well Gontriv'd 
 to prevent Fire. 
 
 In digging the Foundation of a Houfe near the 
 College, in a Stone Coffin, was found a Stone fet in 
 a Gold Ring, with this Infcription in very odd Cha- 
 raaers ; fuppofed to be about the Sixth Century, 
 Domino Comlte fidele m^o, i. e. The Lord being ^ny 
 Guide and faithful Companion. 
 
 Over the Door of the School ftands a very good 
 Statue of the Founder, made by Gibber^, whofe 
 Workmanffiip are the two excellent Figures over 
 Bethlehem-gate^ the Father of that excellent Come- 
 dian Colley, Gibber-., Poet-Laureat, 
 
 The Scholars have Exhibitions at a certain time 
 ef Continuance here, if they pleafe to ftudy, in 
 
 M 5 the 
 
2fo ^TOUR thro' Hants. 
 
 Bene" aao^'"'^' ^^^^ "^ble 
 
 The Clergy here live very elegantly in the Clofe 
 belonging to the Cathedral / whfre, Lfidi the fit 
 ftops Palace, mentioned above, are very good 
 Houfes and very handlomely built, for the Preben- 
 ^ries, Canons, and other Dignitaries of this Church • 
 1 he Deanry is a very pleafant Dwelling, the Gar- 
 dens are large, and the River runs thro' Ihem , but 
 the Jloods ,n Winter fometimes much incommode 
 
 This School has fully anfwerM the End of the 
 Founder, who tho' he was no great Scholar 
 lefolv'd to erea a Houfe for making the Aaes 
 to come more learned than thofe that went before • 
 and niany learned and great Men have been edu- 
 cated here. 
 
 As the City ftands in a Vale on the Bank, and at 
 the Conjundion of Two fmall Rivers, fo the Coun- 
 try nfmg every way, but juft as the Courfe of the 
 Water keeps the Valley open, you muft necefTarily 
 as you go out of the Gates, go up Hill everyway 
 but when once afcended, you come to the moft 
 charmmg Plams and moft pleafant Country of that 
 Kmd in which continues, with very fmall 
 
 Interfeftions of Rivers and Valleys, for above Fifty 
 Miles as I ftiall obferve more particularly in the 
 Sequel of this Journey. ^ 
 
 At the Weft Gate of this City was antiently a 
 Caftle in which, 't.s faid, the Saxon Kin^s kept 
 their Court which however is doubtful, and muft 
 be meant of the only. As to the Tale 
 
 of King s round Table, and his Two Dozen 
 
 of Kmghts which Table being one Piece of Wood 
 fupported by Marble Pillars, they ftiH fhew in th^ 
 Town-hall, faid to be Part of the faid Caftle, as a 
 Piece of Antiquity of 1200 Years ftanding, and has 
 as they pretend, the Names of the faid Knights S 
 
 Saxon 
 
Hants. Great Britain. 251 
 
 5.x.«Charaaers, andyet fuch as "^Man ^ read : all 
 this Story I fee no Ground to give the leaft Credit to. 
 
 Where this Caftle was faid to ftand the late King 
 Charles II. mark'd out a very noble Defign ; which 
 had he lived, would certainly have made that Part of 
 fhe Cointry' the Refort of the Quality and Gentry of 
 all Parts of the Kingdom ; for the Country hereabout 
 far exceeds that of Newmarket-heath, for all kmds 
 
 of Sport and Diverfion. r . ^ ^Uoc fl.^ 
 
 The Building was fo far profecuted, that the 
 Front next the City was carried up to the Root 
 and cover'd ; but what was further mtended was not 
 proceeded on. There was a Street of Houfes de- 
 ftgned from the Gate of the Palace down to the 
 Town, but it was never begun to be built ; the^arJc 
 mark'd out was exceeding large, near Ten Miles m 
 Circumference, and ended VVeft upon the open 
 Downs, in View of Stockbndge. 
 
 This Houfe, with a Royal Revenue, was after- 
 wards fettled by Parliament, as an Appenage upon 
 Prince George of Denmark for his Life, m cafe he 
 had out-liv'd the Queen: but his Royal Highnefs 
 dying before her Majefty, aU Hope of feeing this 
 Defi?n perfefted, or the Houfe finifh'd, is now va- 
 nifh'd. And his late Majefty King G..r^. I. made 
 a Prefent to the Duke of Bolton of the fine Pillars 
 of Italian Marble, which were to have fupported its 
 
 Stair-cafe. , ^,.r • l- r-.. 
 
 There are feveral other publick Edifices in this City, 
 and in the Neighbourhood, which I have not Room 
 to defcribe, as the Hofpitals, and Building adjoining 
 near the Eaft-gate. Towards the North is a Piece 
 of an old Monaftery undemolifti'd, and which is 
 {till preferv'd to the Religion, being the Refidence of 
 fome private Roman Catholick Gentlemen, where 
 they have an Oratory, and, as they fay, live ItiU ac- 
 cordincx totheRulesofS^.^W/^. This Building is 
 call'd Hide-houfe i and as they live very ufefully, 
 M 6 and 
 
2f2 yl r OVK thro' Hams. 
 
 and to the higheft Degree obliging among their 
 Neighbours, they meet with no Obftruaion from, 
 any body. 
 
 Beyond the River Eaftward is a high Hill call'd 
 St. Giles's, from an Hofpital whofe Ruins only are 
 now vifible; and a Church-yard feeming to have 
 been a Camp, befides the Marks of Baftions, and 
 Works of Fortifications in the modern Style Here 
 Waltheof, Earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, 
 was beheaded by Order of King miliam I. whofe 
 Body was carried to Crowland, and faid to work Mi- 
 racles. 
 
 Winchejier is a Place of no Trade, other than is 
 naturally occafion'd by the Inhabitants of the City, 
 and neighbouring Villages, one with another : here 
 is no Manufaaure, no Navigation ; there was in- 
 deed an Attempt to make the River navigable from 
 Southajnpton, and it was once made praaicable ; but 
 It never anfwered the Expence, fo as to give En- 
 couragement to the Undertakers to keep it up. 
 
 Here is a great deal of good Company ; and 
 Abundance of Gentry being in the Neighbourhood, 
 it adds to the Sociablenefs of the Place : the Clergy 
 alfo here,, are, generally fpeaking, rich, and very 
 numerous. 
 
 The magnificent Hofpital called Holy-crofs, on 
 the South of this City, at a Mile's Diftance on 
 the Road to Southampton, is worth Notice : it was 
 foun<led byBifliop^/w. The Church is in the Form 
 of a Crofs, and has a large fquare Tower. Every 
 Traveller, that knocks at the Door of this Houfe, 
 in his Way, and alks for it, claims the Relief of a' 
 Piece of white Bread, and a Cup of Beer ; and 
 this Donation is ftill continued. A Quantity of good 
 Beer is fet apart every Day to be given away 5 and 
 what is left is diftributed to other Poor, but none 
 ©f it kept to next Day, 
 
 How 
 
Hants. Great Britain. 25:3 
 
 How the Revenues of this Hofpital, which fhould 
 maintain the Mafter, and Thirty private Gentlemen, 
 whom they call Fellows, but ought to call Brothers, 
 are now reduced to maintain only Fourteen, while 
 the Mafter lives in a Figure equal to the beft Gen- 
 tleman in the County, would be well worth the 
 Inquiry of a proper Vifitor, if fuch can be nam'd. 
 'Tis a Thing worthy of Notice, when publicic 
 Charities, defign'd for the Relief of the Poor, are 
 imbezzled by the Rich, and turn'd to the Support 
 of Luxury and Pride. 
 
 An Infirmary is effabliftiM lately m this Town, By 
 voluntary Subfcription, after the laudable Examples 
 • of thofe of St. James's mjimmpr, and St. George's 
 at Hyde- Park Corner, and has met with great 
 Succefs, being principally owing to the Zeal and 
 Pains of the Reverend Do6lor Alured Clarke. I 
 have not room to fay all that might be faid on this 
 Head, and fo muft refer you to the Account given 
 by the Dodtor, of the Rife and Progrefs, Rules and 
 Orders, of this excellent Inftitution. 
 
 I made an Excurfion from Winchepr, to fee the 
 antient Town of Romfey, noted for its delightful 
 Situation,, having all round it Woods, Corn-fields, 
 Meadows and Paftures. The River, and Rivulets, 
 which are many, have a rapid Courfe. The Town was 
 queftionlefs Roman, and its Name declares as much. 
 The Church is ,a noble Pile of Architefture, arch'd 
 with Stone, in Form of a Crofs, with Semi-circu- 
 lar Chapels in the upper Angles. The Churches 
 hereabouts called Min/iers, as Wimburn-minpr, in 
 the neighbouring County of Dorfet, were built by 
 the Saxon Kings, as foon as they became Chriftian. 
 At the Weft-end is the Piece of an old Wall, pro- 
 bably belonging to the Nunnery built here by King 
 Md^ar. 
 
 Returning 
 
ATOVRf&ro' Hants. 
 
 Returning to Winchejier we ftruck up North- weft 
 and came to Stokebridge^ a poor forry Borough Town 
 noted for its Corruption in ele<fting Members of Par- 
 liament, and being a great Thorough-fare on the 
 South-weftern Road : it has however a great many 
 good Inns, and as well provided as any on that Road, 
 tho' it has no Market. 
 
 The ingenious ^'n- Richard Steele once reprefented 
 this Town in Parliament ; and tho' he was power- 
 fully oppofed, yet carried his Eleaion by a Stra- 
 tagem, which made all the Women of his Side: Hav- 
 ing made a great Entertainment for the Burgeffes 
 and their Wives, and after having been very free 
 and facetious among them, he took up a large Ap- 
 ple, and ftuck it full of Guineas, and declared it the 
 Prize of that Man, whofe Wife fliould be firft 
 brought to-bed after that Day Nine Months. This 
 occafioned a great deal of Mirth, and what with 
 the Entertainment, and with the Hopes of getting 
 the Prize, the good Women prevailed on their Huf- 
 bands to vote for Sir Richard, whom they to this 
 Day commemorate ; and, as it is faid, once made a 
 ftrong Pulh to get a ftanding Order of the Corpora- 
 tion made, that no Man jfhould be received as a Can- 
 didate for that Borough, who did not offer hinifelf 
 upon the fame Terms. 
 
 Still rifing Northward, we arriv'd at Jndover, a 
 Mayor, Market and Borough Town, and alfo noted 
 for being a great Thorough-fare on the direft JVeJiern 
 Road, as well from Newbury to Salijhury, as from 
 London to Taunt on^Txndi all the manufaduring Towns 
 ofSomerfetJhire, whereby it is greatly inriched, and is 
 a thriving, handfome, well built and populous Town. 
 It is very healthy and pleafantly fituated juft on the 
 Borders of thoie Downs, which are commonly, 
 tho' not properly called Salijhuyy-plain. Near this 
 Town is a Village called Weyhill, where the open 
 Down Country begins i and here upon thefe Downs 
 
 is 
 
 m 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 255 
 
 is the famous Weyhill, where the greatefl: Fair for 
 Sheep in the Nation is kept ; and principally of 
 Ewes for Store -llieep for the Farmers of the 
 Counties of Berks^ Oxford, Bucks, Bedford, Hert- 
 ford, Middlefex, Kent, Surrey and Sujfex, who fend 
 for them to this Place. 
 
 From Andover we b^t our Way towards Wilt- 
 /hire, by parley-hills, on the Weft-fide of which 
 are the Remains of a great Fortification, confifting 
 of two outward Trenches, and other Works of 
 great Strength ; and then entering that County, 
 and leaving Lugger/hall (a fmall Hamlet-town, 
 noted only for having been formerly the Caftle of 
 Jeoffrey Fitzpiers, on the North of us, we came 
 to Ambrejbury, a very antient Town, pretty large, 
 ftanding on the River Avon, and having feveral good 
 Inns, but its Market is much decayed, and almoft 
 difcontinued. It is faid to have taken its Name 
 from Ambrius, who founded here a Monaftery of 
 BenediSfines, long before the coming in of the Saxonsy 
 who deftroyed it, or from Aurelius Amhrofe, a Bri- 
 tijh Prince, who rebuilt it, and fill'd it with 300 
 Monks, to pray for the Souls of thofe noble Britons 
 who were flain by the Treachery of the perfidious 
 Hengifi, the Saxon, who mafTacred here 300 of 
 the antient Britijh Nobility, in cold Blood, whom 
 he had invited with their King Vortigern, to meet 
 him there without Arms, to treat of a League of 
 Amity, and rejoice together. 
 
 The treacherous Saxon favM only the King, whom 
 he obliged to give him near a Third of his King- 
 dom Eaftward, before he would fet him at Liberty. 
 
 The Monaftery at A?nhrefhury was converted into 
 a Nunnery, and Eleanor, King Henry III.'s Queen 
 retir'd and dy'd here ; whofe Example induced the 
 Princefs Mary^ King Edward's fecond Daughter, 
 and Thirteen Noblemens Daughters, to take the Veil 
 together in this Houfe. 
 
 The 
 
2f6 ^ TO UR thro' Wilts. 
 
 The ftupendous Piece of Antiquity called Btone- 
 henge, deferves our particular Notice ; and I (hall 
 therefore borrow from Dr. Stukeley's Piece lately 
 publiftied, intituled, Stone-hengey a Temple rejiored 
 to the Britijh Druids^ the following brief Account 
 and Defcription of it, referring to that elaborate 
 Performance itfelf (which well deferves the Atten- 
 tion of the Learned and Curious) for a more fatif- 
 fadlory Account, and for the Dodor's Reafons for 
 his Hypothefis, which we think he has made out 
 with as much Certainty, as the Nature of the Subject 
 will admit. 
 
 The Wiltjhlre Tiovfm^ or Salijhury-Plain, as this 
 Gentleman obferves, is one of the moft delightful 
 Spots in Britain ; and Stone-henge^ by the extravagant 
 Grandeur of the Work, has attracted the Admira- 
 tion of all Ages. Mr. Camden himfelf fays of it. 
 That he was grieved, that the Founders of it could 
 not be traced out : but Dr. Stukeley has very happily 
 made it more than probable, that it was a Temple 
 of the Britijh Druids, and (the Cathedral, as it may 
 be called) the chief of all their Temples in this 
 Ifland. 
 
 The Stones of which it was compofed are not 
 factitious J for that would have been a greater Won- 
 der, than to bring them together to the Place where 
 they are ; but undoubtedly were brought Fifteen or 
 Sixteen Miles ofF, prodigious as they are, from thofe 
 called the Grey Weathers, near Jbury on Marlbo- 
 rough Downs, all the greater Stones, except the 
 Altar, being of that fort ; for that, being defigned 
 to refift Fire, is of a ftill harder kind ; 'tis a Com- 
 pofition of Gryftals of red, green, and" white Co- 
 lours, cemented by Nature with opaque Granules, 
 of flinty or ftony Matter. The Stone at the upper 
 End of the Cell, which is fallen down and broken 
 in half, the Doftor tells us, weighs above Forty 
 Tons, and would require above 140 Oxen to draw 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 257 
 
 it and yet is not the heavieft Stone neither. Judge 
 then what a ftupendous Labour it was to bring toge- 
 ther, fo many Miles, fuch a Number as were ufed 
 here ; and this has induced many inconfiderate Peo- 
 ple to imagine, that the Founders had an Art oi 
 making Stone, which has been loft for fo many 
 
 ^ The prefent Name is Saxon, tho' the Work is be- 
 yond all Comparifon older, fignifying a hangmg Rod 
 or Pole, i. e. a Gallows, from the hangmg Parts, 
 Architraves, or rather Impofts ; and pendulous Rocks 
 are ftill in Tork/hir^ called Henges. But the an- 
 tient Name was moft probably the Jmbres, for 
 which our learned Author, to whom we refer, gives 
 very fatisfaftory Reafons ; and hence the adjacent 
 Town oUmbreJiury, which I have taken Notice ot, 
 
 has its Name. , • r u-n 
 
 Stone-heme ftands not upon the Summit of .a Hill, 
 but near it, however: at half a Mile Diftance the 
 Appearance is awful ; but as you come up the Ave- 
 nue, in the North-eaft of it, which Side is nioft 
 perfea, the Greatnefs of its Contour fills the Lye 
 in an aftoniftiing manner. It is inclofed in a circular 
 Ditch, which having paffed, we afcend Thirty-hve 
 Yards before we come at the Work. The Stones are 
 chiffell'd, and far from rude, tho' not cut to that 
 Precifenefs as the Ruins in Old Rome, and the in- 
 fide of them had more Pains taken with them then 
 the Outfide ; for fo, as our Author obferves, the 
 polite Architeas of the Eaftern World were wont 
 to do ; not like our London Builders, who carve 
 every Moulding, and croud every Ornament they 
 borrow from Books, on the Outfide of the P"Wick 
 Strudures, that they may the more commodioufly 
 gather the Duft and Smoke. 
 
 When you enter the Building, whether on t oot 
 or Horfeback, and caft your Eyes around upon the 
 yawning Ruins, you are ftruck into an ecftatick Re- 
 
2^5 ^rOVR fLro' Wilts. 
 
 vere, which no one can defcribe, and they only 
 can be fenfible of, who feel it. Other Buildings fall 
 by piece-meal, but here a fingle Stone is a Ruin, 
 Yet IS there as much undemolifh'd as enables us fuf- 
 hciently to recover its Form when in its moft perfeft 
 istate. When we advance farther, the dark Part of 
 the ponderous Imports over our Heads, the Churns of 
 bky between the Jambs of the Cell, the odd Conflru- 
 ttion of the Whole, and the Greatnefs of every Part, 
 lurpnfes.^ If you look upon the perfed Part, you 
 tanfy mtire Qiiai-ries mounted up into the Air ; if 
 wpon the rude Havock below, you fee, as it were, the 
 iSowels of a Mountain turn'd infide out. 
 
 The whole Work, being of a circular Form, is 
 about 1 08 Feet m Diameter, from out to out. The 
 Intention of the Founders was this : the whole Circle 
 was to confift of Thirty Stones, each Stone to be * 
 ^our Cubits broad, each Interval Two Cubits ; 
 I hirty times Four Cubits is twice Sixty: Thirty times 
 Two Cubits k Sixty ; fo that thrice Sixty Cubits 
 completes a Circle, whofe Diameter is Sixty. A 
 btone being Four Cubits broad, and Two thick, is 
 double the Interval, which is a Square of Two Cu- 
 bits. Change the Places between the Stones and their 
 intervals, and it will make a good Ground-plot for a 
 circular Portico of Gree^ or Roman Work. Tho' 
 thefe Bodies of Stone, which are in the Nature of 
 Impofts or Cornices, never had, or were intended 
 to have, any Mouldings upon them, like Greei and 
 Roman Works, they are wrought perfedly plain, and 
 fuitable to the Stones that fupport them ; and the 
 Chifleling of the uprightStones is only above Ground ; 
 for the Four or Five Feet in Length below Ground, 
 is left m the original natural Form. The upright 
 Stones are made very judicioufly to diminifli a little 
 
 * This Cubit is the old Hebrew, Phoenician, or Egyptian Cubit, and 
 what the Founders of Stone-henge went by, and amounts to Twenty 
 inches Four-fifths Englijl) Meafure. 
 
 every 
 
^Wts. Great Britain. 2S9 
 
 jvery way ; fo that at-top they are but Three Cu- 
 )its and a half broad, and fo much nearer as to fut- 
 ^r their Imports to meet a little ever the Heads ot 
 the Uprights, both within-fide and ^A ithout ; by which 
 means the Uprights are lefs liable to fall or fwerve. 
 
 It is to be fear'd fome indifcreet People have been 
 digging about the great Entrance, with ridiculous 
 Hopes of finding Treafure, and fo have Icofen'd the 
 chalky Foundation ; for the upper Edge of the Im- 
 poft overhangs no lefs than Tv^^o Feet Seven Inches, 
 which is very confiderable in a Height of Eighteen. 
 The whole Breadth at the Foundation is but Two- 
 Feet and an half ; and this noble Front is now 
 chiefly kept up by the Mafonry of the Mortaife, 
 and Tendon of the Impofts. 
 
 The Contrivance of the Founders in making Mor- 
 taifes and Tenons between the upright Stones and the 
 Impofts, is admirable ; but fo contrary to any Praaice 
 of the Romans, that it alone overfets their Claim to 
 the Work. Thefe Tenons and Mortaifes of this 
 , outer Circle are round, and fit one another very aptly, 
 i They are Ten Inches and one half in Diameter, and 
 ' refemble half an Egg, rather than an Hemifphere, 
 and fo effeaually keep bo:h Uprights and Impofts 
 from Luxation, that they muft have been thrown 
 down with great Difficulty and Labour. The whole 
 Height of Upright and Impoft is Ten Cubits and an 
 half ; the Upright, Nine ; the Impoft over the grand 
 Entrance is in its middle Length Eleven Feet Ten 
 Inches, and fo is larger than the reft, and it is alfo a, 
 little broader, meafuring on the Ii^fide. . ^ , , 
 
 Of the outer Circle of Stone-henge, which in its 
 Perfeaion confifted of Sixty Stones, Thirty Up- 
 rights, and Thirty Impofts, there are Seventeen 
 Uprights left ftanding, Eleven of which remain con- 
 tinuous by the grand Entrance, Five Impofts upon 
 them. One Upright at the Back of the Temple, 
 leans upon a Stone of the inner Circle. There are 
 
 Six 
 
26o ^TOUR/W Wilts. 
 
 ^nZT^^'''^ "Pr " ^^^""'^^ «^ in Pieces, 
 
 at the PJace. There is but one Import more in its 
 proper Place, and but Two lying upon the Ground ; 
 An.r T^^^ty-^^o are carry'd off. Hence our 
 Author infers, this Temple was not defac'd when 
 Chnftianity prevailed J but that fome rude Hands- 
 carried the Stones away for other Ufes. So muc]> 
 tor the larger Circle of Stones with Imports " 
 
 As to the lefl-er Circle, which never had any Im- 
 fi? T /5 ^%f«/"ewhat more than Eight Feet from- 
 the Inlide of the outward one, and eonfifts of Forty 
 leller Stones, forming, with the outward Circles, as 
 It were, a circular Portico, a moft beautiful Work, 
 and of a pretty Effed ; they are flat Parallelograms, 
 as thofe of the outer Circle; and their general and 
 defign d Proportion is Two Cubits, or Two and an 
 halt, as fuitable Stones were found. They are a 
 Cubit thick, and Four and one half high, which is 
 more than Seven Feet; this was their ftated Propor- 
 tion, being every way the half of the upper Uprights. 
 1 hefe Stones are of a harder Compofition than the 
 reft, as the better to refift Violence, as they are leffer, 
 aiid they have fufficient Faftenings in the Ground. 
 There are but Nineteen of the Forty left ; but 
 Eleven of them are ftanding in fttu. Five in one Place 
 contiguous. Three in another. Two in another. 
 
 The Walk between thefe Two Circles, which is 
 300 Feet in Circumference, is very noble, and very 
 delightful. ^ 
 
 The Adytum, or Cell, into which we may fup- 
 pofe none but the upper Order of Druids were to 
 enter, is compofed of certain Compages of Stones, 
 which our Author calls Trilithom, becaufe made each 
 of two upright Stones, with an Import at top, and 
 there are manifertly Five of thefe remaining ; Three 
 of which are intire. Two are ruin'd, in fome mea- 
 fure, but the Stones remain in fitu. It is a magni- 
 ficent 
 
^Vilts. Great Britain. 261 
 
 ficent Niche Twenty-feven Cubits long, and as 
 much broad, meafuring in the wideft Place. The 
 Stones that compofe it, are really ftupendous ; their 
 Height, Breadth, and Thicknefs are enormous, and 
 to fee fo many of them placed together in a nice and 
 critical Figure, with Exa£lnefs ; to confider, as it 
 were, not a Pillar of one Stone, but a whole Wall, 
 a Side, an End of a Temple, of one Stone ; to view 
 them curioufly, create fuch a Motion in the Mind as 
 Words cannot exprefs. One very remarkable Par- 
 ticular in the Conftitution of this Adytum^ has 
 ' efcap'd all Obfervers before our Author, which is 
 this : as this Part is compofed of Trilithons fet two 
 and two on each Side, and one right before, they rife 
 in Height and Beauty of the Stones, from the lower 
 End of the Adytum to the upper End. That is, 
 I the two hithermoft Trilithons correfponding, or thofe 
 1 next the grand Entrance, on the Right-hand, and 
 ' on the Left, are exceeded in Height by the Two 
 next in Order ; and thofe are exceeded by that be- 
 hind the Altar, in the upper End of this Choir ; and 
 their Heights refpeftively are Thirteen Cubits, Four- 
 teen Cubits, Fifteen Cubits. 
 
 The Impofts of thefe are all of the fame Height, 
 and Ten Cubits may be fuppofed their medium Mea- 
 fure in Length. The Artifice of the Tenons and 
 Mortaifes of thefe Trilithons and their Impofts, 
 what Conformity they bear to that of the outer 
 Circle, is exceedingly pretty, every thing being done 
 I very geometrically, and as would beft anfwer every 
 Purpofe from plain and fimple Principles ; and 'tis 
 I wonderful, that in the Management of fuch prodi- 
 gious Stones as thefe are, fix'd ia the Ground, and 
 ramm'd in like Pofts, there is not more Variation in 
 the Height, Diftance, ^c. 
 
 Of thefe greater Stones of the Adytum^ as is ob- 
 ferved before, there are none wanting, being all on 
 the Spot, Ten Uprights, and Five Cornices, The 
 
 Trili- 
 
262 ^ T O U R f!oro' Wilts. 
 
 Trilithon firfl: on the Left-hand is intire in fitu, but vaft- 
 ly decay 'd,efpecially the Cornice, in which fuch deep 
 Holes are corroded, that in fome Places the Daws 
 make their Nefts in them. The next Trilithon on 
 the Left is intire, compofed of three moft beautiful 
 Stones. The Cornice, happening to be of a very du- 
 rable Englijh Marble, has not'been much impair'd 
 by the Weather. Our Author took a Walk on the 
 Top of it, but thought it a frightful Situation. The 
 Trilithon of the upper End was an extraordinary 
 Beauty ; but probably, thro' the Indifcretion of fome 
 body digging between them and the Altar, the noble 
 Impoft is diflodg'd from its airy Seat, and fallen upon 
 the Altar, where its huge Bulk lies unfraftur'd. 
 The Two Uprights that fupported it, are the moft 
 delicate Stones of the whole Work. They were, our 
 Author thinks, above Thirty Feet long, and 'well 
 chifrell'd, finely taper'd and proportion'd in their 
 Dimenfions. That Southward is broken in two, \ymz 
 upon the Altar. The other ftill ftands intire ; but 
 leans upon one of the Stones of the inward Oval ; 
 the Root-end, or unhewn Part of both, is raifed fome- 
 what above Ground. The Trilithon towards the 
 Weft is intire, except that fome of the End of the 
 Impoft is fallen clean off, and all the upper Edge ; 
 very much diminifh'd by time. The laft Trilithon 
 on the Right-hand of the Entrance into the Adytum. 
 has fufter'd much. The outer Upright, being the 
 jamb of the Entrance, is ftill ftanding ; the other 
 Upright and Impoft are both fallen forwards into the 
 Adytum, and broke each into Three Pieces, as fup- 
 pofed, from digging near it. That which is ftand- 
 ing has a Cavity in it. which Two or Three Perfons 
 may fit in warm from the V/ eather. 
 
 Stone-henge is compofed of Two Circles and Two 
 Ovals, refpedively concentrick. The Stones that 
 form thefe Ovals rife in Height as nearer the upper 
 End of the Adytum i and their mediate Meafure is 
 
 Four 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 263 
 
 Four Cubits and Four Palms. They are of a much 
 harder Kind than the larger Stones in the lefler Cir- 
 cle ; the Founders no doubt intending, that their lefler 
 ; Bulk ftiould be compenfated by Solidity. Of thefe 
 there are only Six remaining upright ; the Stumps 
 of Two are left on the South- fide by the Altar ; one 
 lies behind the Altar dug up, or thrown down, by the 
 Fall of the Upright there. One or Two were pro- 
 bably thrown down by the Fall of the Upright of the 
 firft'Trilithon on the Right-hand ; a Stump of an- 
 other remains'by the Upright there ftill ftanding. 
 
 The whole Number of Stones may be thus com- 
 puted. The great Oval confifts of Ten Uprights ; 
 the inner with the Altar of Twenty j the great Cir- 
 cle of Thirty ; the inner of Forty, which are One 
 hundred upright Stones ; Five Imports of the great 
 Oval ; Thirty of the great Circle ; the Two Stones 
 on the Bank of the Area ; the Stone lying within the 
 Entrance of the Area, and that ftanding without ; 
 there feems to be another lying on the Ground, by 
 the Vallum of the Court, directly oppofite to the 
 Entrance of the Avenue : all added together make 
 juft One hundred and forty Stones, the Number of 
 which Stone-henge, a whole Temple, is compofed. 
 Behold the Solution of the mighty Problem ! the 
 magical Spell, which has fo long perplex'd the Vulgar, 
 is broken ! They think it an ominous thing to fount 
 the true Number of the Stones, and whoever does 
 fo lhall certainly die after it ! 
 
 As to the Altar, it is laid toward the upper End of 
 the Adytum, at prefent flat on the Ground, and 
 fqueez'd into it, as it were, by the Weight of the 
 Ruins upon it. 'Tis a kind of blue coarfe Marble, 
 fuch as comes from Derby/hire, and laid upon Tombs 
 in our Churches and Church-yards. Our Author- 
 believes its Breadth is Two Cubits Three Palms, an l 
 that its firft intended Length was Ten Cubits, equal 
 to the Breadth of the Triiithon, before which it lies. 
 
 But 
 
2 64 T O U R thro" Wilts. 
 
 But it is very difficult to come at its true Length. 
 'Tis Twenty Inches thick, a juft Cubit, and has been 
 fquar'd. It lies between the two Centres, tliat of 
 the CompafTes and that of the String ; leaving a con- 
 venient Space quite round it, no doubt as much as 
 was neceffary for this Miniltration. 
 
 The Heads of Oxen, Deer, and other Beafts have 
 been found upon digging in and about Stone-henge^ 
 undoubted Reliques of Sacrifices, together with Wood- 
 afhes. Mr, Camden fays. Mens Bones have been 
 found hereabouts ; he means in the adjacent Bar- 
 rows, and fuch our Author faw thrown out by the 
 Rabbets, which have been brought hither of late Years, 
 and by their burrowing threaten thefe noble Ruins j 
 as the greedy Plough more and more invades the neigh- 
 bouring Plain. 
 
 But eternally, as he obferves, is to be lamented 
 the Lofs of that Tablet of Tin, which was found at 
 this Place in the Time of Henry VIII. infcribed with 
 many Letters ; but in fo ftrange a Charafler, that 
 neither Sir Thomas Elliot., a learned Antiquary, nor 
 Mr. Lilly, Firft High Mafter of St. Paul's School, 
 could make any thing out of ; and which, no doubt, 
 was a Memorial of the Founders, written by the 
 Druids ; and had it been preferv'd till now, would 
 have been an invaluable Curiofity. 
 
 In tl5e Year 1635, as they were plowing by the 
 Barrows about Normanton-Ditch, they found fo large 
 a Quantity of excellent Pewter, as, at a low Price, 
 they fold for Five Pounds. There are feveral of 
 thefe Ditches, being very narrow, which run acrofs 
 the Downs, which perhaps are Boundaries of Hun- 
 dreds, Parifhes, iSc. Thefe Pewter Plates might 
 very poffibly have been Tablets, with Infcriptions ; 
 but falling into fuch rude Hands, they could no more 
 difcern thu Writing, than interpret it. No doubt, fays 
 Dr. Stukeley, this was fome of the old Britijh Stan- 
 nuniy which the Tyrian HmuleSi furmm'd Mekar- 
 
 thuSi 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 265 
 
 thus, firft brought ex Cajfiteride Infula^ ox Britain: 
 Which Hercules lived in Abraham's Time, or foon 
 after. 
 
 Mr. Webb tells us, the Duke of Buckingham dug 
 about Stone-henge, perhaps much to the Prejudice of 
 the Work. Mr. Webb alfo did the like, and found 
 what he imagined was the Corner of a Thuribulum. 
 Mr. Hayward, late Owner of Stone-henge, like- 
 
 ;wife dug about it, and found Heads of Oxen, and 
 
 ;Other Beafts Bones, and nothing elfe. 
 
 . Dr. Stukeley hinifelf, in 1723, dug on the Infide 
 of the Altar, about the middle. Four Feet along the 
 
 ! Edge of the Stone, Six Feet forward toward the mid- 
 dle of the Adytum : at a Foot deep he came to the 
 folid Chalk, mix'd with Flints, which bid never 
 been ftirr'd. The Altar was exactly a Cubit thick, 
 
 j i. e. Twenty Inches Four-fifths, but broken in Two or 
 
 i Three Pieces by the ponderous Maflesof the Imports, 
 and one upright Stone of tliat Trilithon, which flood 
 at the upper End of the yfi/j/z/z/z, being fallen upon it. 
 Hence appears the Commodioufnefs of the Founda- 
 
 I tion for this huge Work ! They dug Holes in the fo- 
 
 ' lid Chalk, which would of itfelf keep up the Stones 
 as firm as if a Wall was built round them ; and na 
 doubt but they ramm'd up the Interftices with Flints. 
 But he fays, he had too much Regard to the Work, to 
 dig any- where near the Stones. He took up an Ox's 
 Tooth above Ground, without the Adytmn, on the 
 Right-hand of the lowermoft Trilithon Northward/ 
 
 Fhe Time our Author afligns for the building of 
 Stone-henge is not long after Qambyfes's Invafion of 
 Egypt ; when he committed fuch horrid Outrages 
 there, and made fuch difmal Havock with the Priefls 
 and Inhabitants in general, that they difperfed them- 
 felves to all the Parts of the World s fome as far as 
 the Eaji-lndies ; and fome, it is not queftioned, as far 
 Weft ward, into Britain, and introduced fome of 
 tlieir Learning, Arts and Religion among the Druid;, 
 Vol. I, N ~ ai4 
 
266 
 
 T O U R fbro' Wilts. 
 
 end perhaps had a Hand in this very Work, the only 
 CU i where the Stones are chiflell'd ; all other Works 
 of tiieirs being of rude Stones, untouch'd of the Tool, 
 exactly after the Patriarchal and 'Jiwijh Mode, and 
 therefore older than this ; and this Conjecture is the 
 jnore probable, becaufe, at the time mention'd, the 
 Phcenician Trade was at its Height, v/hich afforded a 
 readier Conveyance hither. This was before the fe- 
 cond Temple at Jerufahm was built ; before tl>e 
 Grecians had any Hiftory. 
 
 For farther Particulars of this ftupendous Work, 
 nnci other curious Matters relating and adjacent to it 
 ( fuch as its Antiquity before the Time of the Beiges^ 
 the Romans, the Saxons, and Danes ; of tl:ie Wanf- 
 dike j of Vefpafian\ Camp at J?nbresbury_ ; the Intro- 
 duClion of the Druids into Britain, which he puts 
 about Abrahatri -^ Time ; its antient Name, [the Am- 
 hres^ ; the Water V'afes of Stone- henge ; the Avenue 
 to it ; the Curfus)',' niuft refer our Readers to the 
 Work itfelf, having already exceeded die narrow 
 ]5ounds to which the Nature of our Defign confines 
 lis. But this v/e may add, that doubtlefs they had 
 fome Method in former Days, ia foreign Countries, 
 as well as here, to move heavier Weights than we 
 riow find practicable. How elfe did So!o?non's Work- 
 men build the Battkment, or additional Wall, to 
 fupport the Precipice of Mount- Moriah^ cn which 
 the Temple was ere6ted > which was all built of Pa- 
 rian Marble, each Stone being Forty Cubits long. 
 Fourteen broad, and Eight Cubits thick. And io 
 much for this cel-brated Temple of Stone-henge. 
 
 We fhall now proceed to giye fome Account of 
 the famous Barrows on thefe ]3ov/ns, and we fhall 
 borrow from the fame learned Author, the following 
 curious Particulars relating to then), 
 
 The Tops of all the Hills, or rather eafy Eleva-- 
 tions, round Stone-henge, are in a manner cover'd 
 '.)Vfr with thefe Barrows, \Yl^ich make an agreeable 
 
 Appearance, 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 267 
 
 Appearance, adorning the bare Downs with their 
 Figures. This Ring of Barrows, however, reaches 
 no farther, than till you lofe Sight of the Temple, 
 as we now make no doubt to call Stone-henge^ or 
 thereabouts. Many, frorn the great Number of 
 thefe fepulchral Tumuli here, injudicioufly conclude, 
 that there have been great Battle^ upon the Plain, 
 and that the Slain are buried there ; but they 
 are really no other than Family Burying- places 
 fet near this Temple, for the fame Reafon. 
 as we bury in Church-yards, and confecrated 
 Ground. 
 
 We may readily count Fifty at a time in Sight 
 from the Place, efpecially in the Evening, wher^ 
 the flopingRays of the Sun fhine on the Ground be- 
 yond them. They are moft of them of a very ele- 
 gant Bell-like Form, and done with great Nicety ; 
 in general they are always upon elevated Ground, and 
 in Sight of the Temple, as we have faid ; for they all 
 regard it, and are afluredly the fmgle Sepulchres of 
 Kings and great Perfonages buried, during a con^ 
 fiderable Space of Time, and in Peace. There are 
 jnany Groups of them together, as if I'amil)'- 
 Burial-places j and the Variety in them feems to 
 indicate fome Pre-eminence in the Perfons interred. 
 Moft of them have little Ditches around ; in many 
 is a circular Ditch, 60 Cubits in Diameter, with a 
 very fmall Tumulus in the Centre. Sixty, or even 
 100 Cubits, is a very common Diameter in the large 
 Barrows. Often they are fet in Rows, and equi- 
 diftant, fo as to produce a regular and pretty Ap- 
 pearance, and with fome particular Regard to the 
 Parts of the Temple, the Avenues, or the Ciirfuu 
 Upon every Range of Hills, quite round Stone-henge^ 
 are fucceffive Groups of Barrows for fome Vliles ; and 
 even that nam'd King-barrow., by Lord Pembroke'?^ 
 Park Wall nt Wilton, which our Autlior calls tha 
 N 21 " Tomb 
 
2<5S A TOUR thro" Wilts. 
 
 Tomb of Carvilius, is fet within View of Stone^ 
 henge. 
 
 In 1722, the late Lord Pe?nbroke opened a Bar- 
 row, in order to find the Pofition of the Body ob- 
 ferved in thofe early Days. He pitched upon one of 
 the double Barrows, where two are inclofed in one 
 Ditch. He made a Se6tion from the Top to the 
 Bottom, an intire Segment from Centre to Circum- 
 ference. T])e Compofitioii was good Earth quite 
 t;hro', except a Coat of Chalk of about Two Feet 
 thick, covering it quite over, under the Turf, 
 Hence it appears, that the Method of making thefc 
 Barrows, was to dig up the Turf for a great Space 
 round, till the Barrow was brought to its intended 
 Bulk ; then with the Chalk dug out of the inviron- 
 ing Ditch, they powder'd it all over. And the No- 
 tion of San6lity annexed to them, forbad People 
 trampling on them till perfeftly fettled and turfed 
 over ; whence the Neatnefs of their Forni to this 
 Day. At the Top or Centre of this Barrow, not 
 above Three Feet under the Surface, my Lord found 
 the Skeleton of the Interred, perfe61:, of a. reafon- 
 pble Size, the Head lying Northward towards 
 Stone-henge. 
 
 The Year following, by my Lord's Order, Dr. 
 Stiikeley began upon another double Barrow. He 
 began upon the leffer, and made a large Cut on the 
 Top from Eaft to Weft. After the Turf, he came 
 to the Lfiyer of Chalk, as before, then fine Garden 
 Mould. About Three Feet below the Surface, a 
 Layer of Flints humouring the Convexity of the 
 Barrow, which are gathered from the Surface of the 
 Downs in fome Places, efpecially where it has been 
 ploughed. This being about a Foot thick, refted on a. 
 Layer of foft Mould another Foot ; in which was 
 Inclofed an Urn full of Bones. The Urn was of 
 ynbaked Clay, of a dark redd ifh Colour ; crumbled 
 ipto pieces, It had been rudely wrought with fmall 
 
 Mouldinf;'^ 
 
rWiits. G REAt Britain". 169 
 
 Mouldings round the Verge, and other circulal* 
 Chanels on the Outfide, with feveral Indentions 
 between, made with a pointed Tool. The Bones 
 had been burnt, and crouded all together in a little 
 Heap, not fo much as a Hat-crown would contain ; 
 the Collar-bone, and one fide of the Under-jaw 
 remaining very intire. It appears to have been a Girl 
 of about Fourteen Years old, by their Bulk, and 
 the great Qiiantity of Female Ornaments mixed 
 with the Bones ; as great Numbers of glafs Beads 
 of all Sorts, and of divers Colours, mod yellow, one 
 black J many fmgle, many in long Pieces, notched 
 '; between, fo as to refemble a String of Beads, and 
 , thefe were generally of a blue Colour. There were 
 I jnany of Amber, of all Shapes and Sizes, flat Squares, 
 long Squares, round, oblong, little and great ; like- 
 wife many of Earth, of different Shapes, Magni- 
 tude and Colour j fome little and white, many 
 large and fiattifti, like a Button, others like a 
 Fully ; but all had Holes to run a String thro', 
 \ either thro' their Diameter or Sides : Many of the 
 I ButtonSort feem'd to have been. covered with Metal, 
 j there being a Rim worked in them, wherein to turn 
 ' the Edge of the Covering. One of thefe was 
 covered with a thin Film of pure Gold. Thefe 
 were the young Lady's Ornaments, and had all 
 undergone Fire, fo that what would eafily con fume, 
 fell to-pieces as foon as handled ; much of the 
 Amber burnt half thro' ; thisPerfon was a Heroine ; 
 for we found the Head of her Javelin in Brafs. At 
 Bottom are two Holes for the Pin that faftened it to 
 the Staff ; befides, there was a fharp Bodkin, round 
 at one End, fquare at the other, where it went into 
 the Handle. Our Author preferved whatever is 
 permanent of thefe Trinkets ; but recompos'd the 
 Afhes of the illuftrious DefuntSl, and covered them 
 with Earth, leaving vifible Marks at Top of the 
 Barrow having been open'd (to difluade any other 
 
 N 3 from 
 
12/0 ^ TOUR thrd Wilts; 
 
 from again difturbing them) : and this was his 
 Practice in all the refl:. 
 
 He then opened the next Barrow to it, inclofed 
 in the fame Ditch, which he fuppofed the Hufband 
 or Father of this Lady. At 14 Inches desp, the Mould 
 being mixed with Chalk, he came to the intire 
 Skeleton of a Man, the Skull and all the Bones 
 exceedingly rotten and perlfhed, thro' Length of 
 Time : tho' this was a Barrow of the lateft Sort, 
 as he conjectured. The Body lay North and South, 
 the Head to the North, as that Lord Pembroke 
 opened. 
 
 Next he went Weftward to a Group of Barrows, 
 whence 5^i?n^-/><?«'^^' bears Eaft-north-eaft. Here is a 
 large Barrow ditch'd about, but of an antientMake. 
 On that Side next Stone-henge are Ten lefier, fmall, 
 and as itv/ere, crouded together. South of the great 
 one is another Barrow, larger than thofe of the 
 Group, but not equalling the firft : it would feem, 
 that a Man and his Wife were buried in the Two 
 larger, and that the reft were of their Children or 
 Dc^pendents. One of the fmall ones, 20 Cubits in 
 Diameter, he cut thro', with a Pit Nine Feet in 
 Diameter, to the Surface of the natural Chalk, in 
 the Centre of the Barrow, where was a little Hole 
 cut. A Child's Body, as it feems, had been burnt 
 liere, and covered up'in that Hole ; but thro' Length 
 of Time confumed. From Three Feet deep he 
 found much Wood-afhes, foft, and black as Ink, 
 fome little Bits of an Urn, and black and red Earth 
 very rotten ; fome fmall Lumps of Earth red as 
 Vermilion ; fome Flints burnt thro' ; tov/ard the 
 Bottom, a great Quantity of Afhes, and burnt Bones, 
 From this Place he counted 128 Barrows in Sight. 
 
 Going from hence more Southerly, is a circular 
 difh-like Cavity, 60 Cubits In Diameter, dug in the 
 Chalk, like a Barrow reverfed. 'Tis near a great Bar- 
 row, the leaft of the South-weftexn Group. This 
 
 Cavity 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. ijt 
 
 Cavity Is Seven Feet deep in the Middle, extremely 
 well turn'd ; and out of it, no doubt, the adjacent 
 Barrow is dug. The Ufeof it feems to have been z. 
 Place for facrificing and feafting in Memory of the 
 Dead, as was the antient Cuftom. 'Tis all over- 
 grown with that pretty Shrub Erica Vulgaris, then 
 in Flower, and fmelling like Honey, He n'iade a 
 large crofs Sedion in its Centre, upon the Cardinal 
 Points, and found nothing but a Bit of red earthen 
 Pot. 
 
 He then dug up one of thofc he callsZ>n«Wj Barrows, 
 a fmall Tumulus, inclofed in a large circular Ditch. 
 Stone-hengc bears hence North-eaft. He made a crofs 
 Sedion Ten Feet each way. Three Feet broad over 
 its Centre upon the Cardinal Points : At length he 
 found a fquarifli Hole cut in the folid Chalt:, in the 
 Centre of the Timiulus; it wasThree Feet and an half, 
 
 e. Two Cubits long, and near Two Feet b;oad, 
 i.e. One Cubit, ^oiniingto Stone-henge dhti&Xy . It 
 was a Cubit and an half deep from the Surface. This 
 was the Domus exilis Plutonia, covered with artifi- 
 cial Earth, not above a Foot thick from the Surface. 
 In this little Grave he found all the burnt Pmes of a 
 Man, but no Signs of an Urn. The Bank of the 
 ch-cular Ditch is on the Outfide, and is 12 Cubits 
 broad'. The Ditch is Six Cubits broad, (the DruicPs 
 Staff) ; the Area is 70 Cubits in Diameter. The 
 Whole 100. 
 
 He opened another of thefe of like Dimenfions, 
 next to that Lord Pembroke firft opened, South of 
 Stone-henge ; and found a burnt Body in a Hole in the 
 Chalk, as before. 
 
 In fome other Barrows he opened, were found 
 large burnt Bones of Horfes and Dogs, along with 
 human ; alfo of other Animals, as feem'd of Fowl, 
 Hares, Boars, Deer, Goats, or the like ; and in a 
 great and very flat old-fafliioned Barrow, Weft from 
 Stone-henge, among fuch Matters, he found Bits of 
 
 N 4 red 
 
272 JlTOVRfhro' Wilts. 
 
 red and blue Marble, Chippings of the Stones of the 
 Teinple, fo that probably the Interred was one of 
 the Builders. Homer tells of Achilles flaying Horfes 
 and Dogs at the Funeral of his Friend Patrodus. 
 
 Lord Pembroke told the Do£tor of a Brafs Sword 
 ilug up in a Barrow here^ which was fent to Oxford. 
 In that very old Barrow near Little Jmbre/bury, was 
 found a very large Brafs Weapon of 20 Pounds 
 Weight, like a Pole-ax, faid to be given to Colonel 
 Wyndham. In the great long Barrow farthefl North 
 from Stone-henge, which our Author fuppofes to be an 
 jirchdruid's^ was found one of thofe Brafs Inftru- 
 ments called Celts^ which he thinks belong'd to 
 the Druids, wherewith they cut off the Mifleto. 
 Mr. Stallard of Ambrejbiiry gave it to Lord Bur- 
 lington, now in Sir Hans S loam's Cabinet, 13 Inches 
 long. They dug a Cell in a Barrow Eaft of J?nbref- 
 hiiry, and it was inhabited for fome time. There ttiey 
 faw all the Bones of a Horfe. We find evidently, 
 adds the Doctor, thefe antient Nations had the 
 Cuftom of burning their dead Bodies, probably before 
 the Name of Ro?ne. So Lacrymatories we read of 
 in Scripture, antienter than Greek or Roman Times. 
 Pfalm Ivi. 8. 
 
 Salifbury Plains are certainly the moft charming 
 that can any-where be feen. The numerous Flocks 
 of Sheep all around, which way foever we turn, are 
 a fine Sight ; 'tis ordinary for thefe Flocks to con- 
 tain from 3000 to 5000 each ; and feveral private 
 Farmers hereabouts have Two or Three fuch Flocks. 
 
 But 'tis more remarkable ftill, how a great Part of 
 thefe Downs comes, by a new Method of Hufbandry, 
 not only to be made arable, but to bear plentiful 
 Crops of Wheat, tho' never known to our Anceftors 
 to be capable of any fuch Thing ; nay, they would 
 probably have laughed at any one that had gone 
 about to plough up the wild Downs and Hills, which 
 they thought only fit for Sheep-walks j but Experi- 
 ence 
 
Wilts; Great Britain.' 273 
 
 ence has made the prefent Age wlfer, and more Ikilful 
 in Hulbandry ; for by only folding the Sheep upon 
 thofe Lands, after they are, turn'd up with the 
 Plough, (which generally goes within Three or Four 
 Inches of the folid Rock of Chalk) they become 
 abundantly fruitful, and bear very good Wheat, as 
 well as Rye and Barley. I ftiall fay more of this, 
 when I come to fpeak of the fame Pradlice farther in 
 the Country. 
 
 This plain open Country continues in Length from 
 Winchejier to Salijbury 25 Miles, from thence to 
 Dorchejier 22 Miles, thence to Weymouth fix Miles, 
 fo that they lie near 50 Miles in Length and Breadth ; 
 they reach alfo in fome Places fron 35 to 40 Miles : 
 Thofe who would make any prailicable Guefs at the 
 Number of Sheep which ufually feed on thefe 
 Downs, may take it from a Calculation made, as I 
 was told, at Dorchejier^ that there were 600,000 
 Sheep fed within the Circumference of Six Miles 
 around that Town. 
 
 As we pafled this open plain Country, we faw the 
 Ruins of a great many old Roman and Britifi Camps^ 
 and otlier Remains of the antient Inhabitants of this 
 Kingdom, and of their "VV ars, Battles, Entrench- 
 ments, Encampments, Buildings, and other Forti- 
 fications, v/hich are indeed very agreeable to a Tra- 
 veller, that has read the Hiftory of die Country. 
 
 Old Sarum^ which is the next Place we come to, 
 is as remarkable as any of thefe, v^^here there is a 
 double Entrenchment, with a deep Graff, or Ditch, 
 to either of them. 'Tis faid it was a Roman Station, 
 and the antient Sorhioduninn. It was deferted m 
 King Henry III.'s Time, for want of Water, when 
 the Inhabitants founded Netv Sarum. The old City 
 is of an orbicular Form, erected on one of the moil 
 elegant Defigns imaginable. It was, firft, a Fortrefs 
 of the antient Britons. The Profpecl of this Place 
 is at prefent very auguft, and would have afforded us 
 
 N 5 a mo{^ 
 
2 74 TOUR thro' Wilts. 
 
 a moft noble Sight, when in Perfeilion. In the 
 Angle to tiie North-wefl flood the Cathedral, and 
 Epifcopal Palace. The City fills up the Summit ol" 
 an high and fteep Hill, near the Bottom of which 
 runs the River Avon, Here Synods and Briii/J) Par- 
 liaments have formerly been held ; and hither the 
 States of the Kingdom were fummoned to fwear 
 Fealty to WtlUam I. In this City was the Palace of the 
 Britijh and Saxon Kings, and of the Roman Em- 
 perors. Near it is one Farm-houfe, and that is all 
 which is left of this antient City : yet this is called 
 the Borough of Old Sarum, and fends Two Mem- 
 bers to Parliament, v/ho are chofen by the Proprietors 
 of certain Lands, Whom thofe Members can juftly 
 fay they reprefent^ woijd however be hard for them, 
 to anfvver. 
 
 Salijhury is a large, well-buSt, and pleafant City ; 
 and tlie Founders of it feemed to have run from one 
 Extreme to another ; for as the old City wanted 
 Water, this has rather too much, the Water run- 
 ning thro' the Middle of every Street, which, I 
 think, docs not add to the Beauty of the Town, 
 but jjft the contrary; for it keeps the Streets always 
 dirtv, full of Wet and Filth, and Weeds, even in 
 the Middle of Summer. 
 
 The City lies at the Confluence of Two Rivers, 
 the Avon, and the JVilly^ each of them fingly a con- 
 fiderable River, but very large, when joined to- 
 gether ; and yet much larger, when they receive the 
 Nadder, a third River, which joins them near Cla- 
 rendon Park about Three Miles below the City ; 
 when, with a deep Chanel, and a Current lefs rapid, 
 rhey run down to Chrijl- churchy where they empty 
 themfelves into the Sea.. From that Town upwards, 
 to within Two Miles of Salijhury, they are made 
 navigable; but the Strength of the Stream would not 
 permit to make them fo up to the City. • 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 275* 
 
 Salifbury, and all the County of TVilts^ are full 
 of a great Variety of Manufa61:ures ; and thofe too 
 of the moll confiderable in England ; as the Cloath- 
 ing Trade, and that of Flanels, Druggets, and alfo 
 feveral other Sorts of Manufa£tures, of which in 
 their Place. 
 
 Salijhury has, in particular, Two remarkable Ma-- 
 nutailures that flourifli in it, which employ the Poor 
 all around ; namely, fine Flanels, and Long Cloths 
 for the Turkey Trade, called Salijbury Whites. 
 
 The Clofe adjacent to the Cathedral, in which 
 live the Canons and Prebendaries, is fo large and 
 well-built, that it looks like a fine City of itfelf. 
 
 The Cathedral is famous for the Height of Its 
 Spire, which is without Exception the higheft and 
 the handfomeft in England, being from the Ground 
 410 Feet, and yet the Walls fo exceeding thin, that 
 at the Upper-part of the Spire, upon a View made 
 by the late Sir Chrijiopher Wren, the Wall v/as found 
 to be lefs than five Inches thick ; upon which a 
 Confultation was had, whether the Spire, or at leaft 
 the Upper-part of it, fliould be taken down, it being 
 fuppofed to have received fome Damage by the great 
 Storm in the Year 1703 ; but it was refolved in the 
 Negative, and Sir Chrijlophcr ordered it tj be 
 ftrengthen^d with Bands of Iron Plates, which have 
 efiredtually fecured it ; and I have heard fome of the 
 beft Archite£fs fay, it is ftronger now than when it 
 was firft built. 
 
 They tell us here long Stoi-ies of the great Art 
 vifed in laying the firft Foundation of this^ Church, 
 the Ground being marfhy and Vv^et, occafioned by t!ic 
 Chanels of the Rivers ; that it was laid upon Pilcs, 
 according to fome ; and upon Woolpacks, according 
 to others : But this is not to be believed by thofe who 
 know, that the whole Country is one Rock of 
 Chalk, even from the Tops of the higheft Hills, to 
 the Bottom of the deepeft Rivers. A^nd the Foun- 
 
 N 6 (iuiion. 
 
276 
 
 ^ T O U R thro' 
 
 Wilts. 
 
 dation of Woolpacks is, no doubt, allegorical, and 
 has refpecSl to the Woollen Trade. 
 
 This Church v/as begun by Bifhop Poore, continu'd 
 by Robert Binghafn, and TVilUam of Tork^ and 
 finiftied by Giles de Bfideport^ Bifliop of this See, 
 all in the Space of 40 Years. The Model is after 
 the Figure of a Crofs ; and it coft an immenfe 
 Sum of Money ; but it muft be acknowledged, that 
 the Infide of the Work is not anfwerable, in the 
 Decoration of Things, to the Workmanlhip with- 
 out. The Painting in the Choir is mean, and more 
 like the ordinary Method of a common Drawing- 
 room, or Tavern-painting, than that of a Church. 
 The Carving is good, but there is very little of it, 
 and it is rather a fine Church, than finely fet off. 
 But it now makes a better Appearance than it has 
 
 hutions of- fhe B ifhop and Prebendaries, fet on foot 
 by Bifl)0p Sherlock, who, it feems, thought that the 
 Dignifaries ought to fvpport what fupported them ; 
 and that all they got by the Church was not defigned 
 merely to make or inrich their Families. 
 
 The ordinary Boaft of this Building, in the fol- 
 lowing Verfes, muft not be omitted : 
 
 As many Days as in One Tear there he^ 
 
 So ?na?iy Windows in One Church we fee ; 
 
 As many Marhle Pillars there appear. 
 
 As there are Hours throughout the fleeting Yeari 
 
 As many Gates as Aloons One Tear do view : 
 
 Strange Tale to tell, yet not more flrange than true ! 
 
 Some of the Windows which efcaped the Fury of 
 the Zealots of 1641, are well painted. 
 
 There are fome very fine Monuments in this 
 Church ; particularly in that they call the Virgin 
 Mary^s Chapel, behind the Altar, is a noble Monu- 
 ment for a late Duke and Dychefs of Somerfet, with 
 
 done, havi. 
 
 lately been repaired by the Contri- 
 
 their 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 277 
 
 their Pourtraits at full Length. The late Duchefs of 
 Somerfet, of the Piercy Family, alfo her Daughter 
 the Marchionefs of Caermarthen, and a fecond Son 
 of her Grace, both by the prefent Duke, are like- 
 wife interred here. 
 
 The Figure of .one Bennet, who endeavoured to 
 imitate our Saviour in Failing Forty Days and Forty 
 Nights, as is there reprefented, carried his Point fo 
 far, that being reduced to a Skeleton, he fell aViftim 
 to his prefumptuous and enthufiaftick Folly. The 
 Bodies of the Biftiops Jewell, Uvall, Chejl, were alfo 
 interred here. Here is likewife a Monument to the 
 beneficent Dr. Seth IVard, Biftiop of this See, who 
 founded (amidft other Benefaftions, which we fli'all 
 take notice of in Hertfordjhire ) a handfome College 
 for the Widows of Ten Minifters, allowing to each 
 15 /, per Annum ; and which has been fince obliged to 
 Dr. Gilbert Burnet, Bifliop of this See. 
 
 They {hew you alfo the Monument of the Lord 
 Stourton, in the Reign of Philip and Mary, which 
 is made remarkable by a particular Incident ; as 
 follows : 
 
 This Lord Stourton, being guilty of a Murder, 
 which was aggravated with very bad Circumftances, 
 could not obtain the ufual Grace of the Crown, to 
 be beheaded ; but Queen Mary pofitively ordered, 
 that, like a common Malefador, he ftiould die at 
 the Gallows. After he was executed, his Friends 
 defiring to have him bury'd at Salifiury, the Bifliop 
 would not confent, that he fhould be buried in the 
 Cathedral, unlefs, as a farther Mark of Infamy, 
 they would fubmit to this Condition, (viz. ) That 
 the filken Halter in which he was hanged, fhould be 
 placed over his Grave in the Church, as ^ Monu- 
 ment of his Crime ; which was accordingly done, 
 and there it is to be feen at this Day; 
 
 The putting this Halter up here, was not fo won- 
 derful to me, as it was, that the Pofterity of that 
 
 - Lord, 
 
^rouR^Lro' Wilts; 
 
 Lord, who remained in good Rank fome Time after 
 fliould never prevail to have that Mark of Infam^ 
 taken from the Tomb of their Anceftor. 
 
 The Cloifter is i6o Feet fquare, the inner Cioifter 
 30 l^eet wide, with 10 Arches on each Side, the Top 
 vaulted, and covered with Lead. Over the Eaft 
 Walk of the Cloifter, is a fpacious Library, but 
 not over- well flocked with Books. The Chapter 
 houfe is Oaagon, and is 150 Feet in Circumference j 
 the Roof bearing all upon one fmall Marble Pillar 
 m the Centre, which feems fo feeble, that it is 
 hardly to be imagined it can be any great Support to 
 It, which makes it the more curious j and indeed I 
 believe, it is hardly to be matched in Europe. ' 
 
 The Corporation of have lately purchafed 
 
 a ver^ fine Original Piece of Painting of her late 
 Majelty Qiieen Jnne, drawn by the celebrated Z)^/^/ 
 and Im^e put it up in the Council-chamber of the 
 City. This Pidure formerly belonged to the Society of 
 Gentlemen (all Members of Parliament) known by 
 the Name of the O^ohr Club, and was fet up in the 
 great Room belonging to the Bell (now Crown) 
 Tavern in Wejlminjler, where they ufed to meet 
 till the Death of Queen Anne. 
 . In 1736-7, an Aa pafTed for the better Repair- 
 ing and Paving the Highways, Streets, and Water- 
 courfes Within this City, and for Enlightening the 
 Streets, Lanes, and Pafiages, and better resulatino- 
 the Nightly Watch. 
 
 _ From hence direfting my Courfe to the Sea-fide, 
 in Purfuit of my firft Defign of viewing the whole 
 Coalt of England ; I left the great Road^ and went 
 down the Eaft-fide of the River to wards New-Foreft 
 ^nALymington ; and here Ifawthe an tient Houfe and 
 Seat of Clarendon, which gives Title to the Earl of 
 that Name. This Place fh^ould be called Clorendon, 
 from the mcmoxMQRoman Camp,half a Mile ofF the 
 Park,, near the Ro?nan Ryad, made vr repaired by 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. s/p 
 
 Con/lant'ius Chkrus, Father of Conjiantine. It is a 
 beautiful Fortification, of a round form, upon a 
 dry chalkv Hill. Within is a circular Ditch, fup- 
 po'fed to be a lefs Sort of Camp for the Summer. 
 l"he Park is a fweet and beautiful Spot. Here King 
 John built a Pahce, where feveral Parliaments have 
 been held. Part of the Fabrick is ftill left, tho' they 
 have for many Years been pulling it down. The 
 Meterials are chiefly Flint, and it was built upon the 
 Sideof anFIill, but no way fortified, tho' it took up 
 much Ground. This Palace is called the Manor^ 
 and from it lies a fubterraneous Paflage to xht ^een' s 
 Manor. Between the Camp and the Park, was a 
 Roman Road, from Sorbiodununiy or Old Sarum^ to 
 Winchejier. 
 
 But this being a large County, and full of memo- 
 rable Branches of Antiquity, and modern Curiofity, 
 I made feveral little Excurfions from this beautiful 
 Spot, to view the Northern Parts of the County. 
 
 I have mentioned, that this County is generally 
 a vafi: continued Body of high chalky Hills, whofe 
 Tops fpread themfelves into fruitful and pleafant 
 Downs and Plains, upon which great Flocks of 
 Sheep are fed, i^c. But the Reader is defired to 
 obferve, thefe Hills and Plains are mcfl: beautifully 
 interfeaed, and cut thro', by the Courfe of divers 
 pleafant and profitable Rivers ; along, and near 
 the Banks of which, there always is a Chain 
 of fruitful Meadows, and rich Paftures, and thofe 
 interfperfed with a great many pleafant Towns, 
 Villages, and Houfes, and among them many of 
 confiderable Magnitude ; fo that, while you view 
 the Downs, and think the Country wild and unin- 
 habited, yet when you come to defcend into thefe 
 Vales, you are furprifed with the mofl: pleafant and 
 fertile Country in England. 
 
 No lefs than Four of thefe Rivers meet all to- 
 gether, at or aear the City gf Sali^ury, the Waters 
 
 of 
 
2 8o j4 rOVK thro' Wiltg^ 
 
 of Three of which run thro' the Streets of the City ; 
 viz. the Nadder, the PFi/fy, mid the Jvon. i. The 
 Nadder rifes near the End of the Blow Mill Courfe 
 and paffes by C/^/'W/f, a pleafant Village, noted for 
 its Quarries of very good white Stone, which rifes 
 in many Dimenfions, infomuch that there is now 
 a fingle Stone lying over the Mouth of the Quarry 
 like an Architrave, full 60 Feet long, 12 inThick- 
 nefs, and perfedly without Flaw. 2. The Willy 
 rifes about Warminjier ; runs by Tarnbury, a vaft 
 Roman Camp (where fome diftinguifti Vefpafian'^ 
 Name j a great femicircular Work at the Entrance , 
 over-againft which, on the other Side the Willy ^ is 
 another Camp) ; then running by Orchejlra^ re- 
 markable for a Kind of Grafs 25 Feet in Length, 
 with which they fatten Hogs, it gives Name to 
 Wilton., and forms the Canal before the Front of 
 Wilton Houfe ; and then joining the Nadder., runs 
 thro' the Gardens at the End of the Avenue. 
 3. The Avon rifes from under a great Ridge of Hills j 
 which divide Wiltjhire into North and South, adorn'd 
 with the Wanfdike. It paffes Southward thro' a 
 great Number of Villages to Ambrefhury. 
 
 What is moft worth a Man of Curiofity's feeino- 
 in this County, is Wilton Houfe. It is fituated in a 
 pleafant Vale, having Wilton Town on one Side, 
 and a fpacious Park on the other. 
 
 The Building was begun in the Reign of T/^-;?. VIII. 
 The great Quadrangle was finilhed m the Time of 
 Edward VI. and the Porch was defxgned by Hans 
 Holbein. The Hall-fide, being burnt down fome 
 Years ago, was rebuilt by the late Thomas Earl of 
 Pembroke^ then Lord High- Admiral of £;z^/^?W, in 
 a very noble and fumptuous manner. The other 
 Parts, rebuilt by the firft Philip Earl of Pembroke, 
 were all defigned by the famous Inigo Jones, and 
 Jfinifhed by him in the Year 1640, 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 281 
 
 The Canal before the Houfe lies parallel Xvith the 
 Koad, and receives into it the v/hole River /F/V/y, 
 or at leaft is able to do fo j it may indeed be faid, 
 that the River is made into a Canal. When we 
 come into the Court-yards before the Houfe, there 
 are feveral Pieces of Antiquity to entertain the Cu- 
 rious ; as particularly a noble Column of Porphyry, 
 with a Marble Statue of Venus on the Top of it ; 
 which, as they told me, is 32 Feet high, and of 
 excellent Workmanfhip, and that it came laft from 
 Candia, but formerly from Jlexandria. 
 
 As the late Earl of Pembroke was a Nobleman of 
 great Learning, beyond moft Men of his high Rank, 
 and a Mafter of Antiquity, he took Delight in col- 
 lecting fuch valuable Pieces of Painting and Sculpture, 
 as made fFilton Houfe a perfedl Mufeum, or Re- 
 ceptacle of Rarities ; and we meet with feveral 
 Things there, which are to be found no- where elfe 
 in the World. I ftiall particularize but a few; for 
 a Volume might be employ'd in a full Defcription of 
 them. 
 
 The Piece of our Saviour's wa&ing his Difciples 
 P^eet, which they-fliew you in one of the firft Rooms 
 you go into, is admirable. At ' the Foo of the 
 great Stair-cafe is a Bacchus as large as the Life, 
 done in fine Peloponnefian Marble, carrying a young 
 Bacchus on his Arm, the young one eating Grapes, 
 and {hewing by his Countenance, he is pleafed with 
 the Tafte of them. One ought to flop every Two 
 Steps of this Stair-cafe, as we go up, to contemplate 
 the vaft Variety of Pidures that cover the Walls, 
 and of fome of the beft Mafters in Europe ; and yet 
 this is but an Introduction to what is beyond them. 
 
 The great Geometrical Stair-cafe itfelf is defervedly 
 admired, and was the firft of this Kind in England; 
 and the rich and magnificent Door- cafe can hardly 
 be parallell'd. 
 
 'Tis 
 
2B2 TOUR thro" Wilts; 
 
 'Tis univerfally acknowledged, that the rrrand 
 ^g^^tment is one of the nobleft Pieces of Archi- 
 tedure that has been hitherto produced j particularly 
 the^^/,«; which is 60 Feet long, 30 high, and 
 30 broad ; and when you are enter'd thefe errand 
 Apartments, fuch Variety ftrikes upon vou every 
 Way, that you fcarce know to which Hand to turn 
 yourfelf firft. On one Side you fee feveral Rooms 
 hlled with Paintings, all fo curious, and various, 
 that It IS with Reluaance 'you leave them ; and 
 looking another way, you are called ofF by a vaft 
 Colleaion of Bufts, and Pieces of the greateil 
 Antiquity of the Kind, both Greek and Roman. 
 
 In one End of the grand Room is the celebrated 
 •tamily-pidure by Vandyke., 20 Feet long, and li 
 i^eet high, containing 13 Figures as big as the Life ; 
 which rather appear as fo many real Perfons^ than 
 the Produdion of Art : and all the other Piftures 
 there are of the fame incomparable Pland. It 
 would be endlefs to defcribe the whole Se't of the 
 i^amily-piaures, which take up this Room, unlefs 
 we would enter into the Roof-tree of the Family, 
 and fet down a Genealogical Line of the whole 
 Houfe. 
 
 After this fine Range of Beauties are feen, we are 
 far from being at an End of our Surprize : there are 
 three or four Rooms ftill upon the fame Floor, filled 
 with Wonders : nothing can be finer than the 
 Piaures themfelves, nothing more furprifing than the 
 Number of them. At length you defcend the Back- 
 Itairs, which are large, tho' not like the other, 
 where not a Hand's Breadth is left vacant between 
 the Piaures ; and even the upper Rooms have fome 
 very good Pieces in them. 
 
 _ In moft of the Apartments are Marble Chimney- 
 pieces of the moft exquifite Workmanfliip, all carv- 
 ed in Italy^ with many curious Statues, Bafib Re- 
 lievo's, and Fiaures of the moft famous Mafters. 
 
 The 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. 283 
 
 The Logglo in the Bowling-green, (which has Pil- 
 lars beautifully rufticated, and is inriched with Niches 
 and Statues) the Grotto, (the Front of which is 
 curioufly carved without, as it is all Marble within, 
 and has black Pillars of the Ionic Order, with Capi- 
 tals of white Marble, and Four fine BalTo Relievo s 
 from Florence) the Stables, and other Offices, are 
 all Beauties in their Kind, which would tire De- 
 
 icription. r T\/r -i 
 
 The Colkaion of Head-pieces, Coats of Mail, 
 and other Armour for both Horfe and Man, are alfo 
 a Curiofity. They ftiew thofe of King Henry VIII. 
 Edward VI. and of an Earl of Pembroke, nick- 
 named Black Jack, which he wore when he befieged 
 and took Bulloign in France, being the General who 
 commanded in chief under the King; they are very 
 curious and imbofs'd. Twelve otl>er complete Suits 
 of Armour, of extraordinary Workmanfliip, are alfo 
 there; the reft, being about lOO, are only for 
 common Horfe-men. 
 
 The Garden Front is juftly efteemed one of the 
 beft Pieces of the renowned Inigo Jones, and is 194 
 
 Feet long. tt r j 
 
 The Gardens are on the South of the Houfe, and 
 extend themfelves beyond the River, a Branch of 
 which runs thro' one Part of them ; and ftill South 
 of the Gardens is the great Park, which reaches be- 
 yond the Vale; the View opens to the great Down, 
 which is properly called, by way of Diftinftion, 
 Salisbury-plain, and leads from the City of Salijbury^ 
 to Shaftjbury. Here alfo his Lordfhip has a Hare- 
 warren, as 'tis called, tho' improperly. It has 
 indeed been a Sanduary for the Hares for_ many 
 Years; but the Gentlemen complain, that it mars 
 their Game ; for that, as foon as they put up a Hare 
 for their Sport, if it be any-where within two or 
 three Miles, away flie runs for the Warren, and 
 there is an End of 'their Purfuit. On the other hand, 
 
 it 
 
2S4 jirovRf^ro' Wilts: 
 
 it makes all the Countrymen turn Poachers, and 
 deftroy the Hares, by what Means they can. The 
 prefent Earl of Pembroke^ who,- as his Father 
 had, has alfo a fine Tafte in Architeaure, has made 
 a further Improvement with regard to Profped, at 
 this noble Houfe, throwing down the Walls of the 
 Garden, and making inftead of them the newly in- 
 troduced Haw-haw Walls, which afford a boundlefs 
 View all around the Country from every Quarter. 
 HisLordfliip has alfo built a moft magnificent Bridge 
 over the River in his Garden, which is efteemed the 
 principal Ornament without Doors of this noble 
 Seat. 
 
 From this pleafant and agreeable Place I returned 
 to Clarendon. The Road from Wilton to Shaftf- 
 hury, called The Ten Mile Courfe, is a fine Ridge of 
 Downs, continued upon the Southern Bank of the 
 River Nadder^ with a fweet Profped to the Right 
 and Left all the way over the Towns and the 
 Country on both Sides. The late Earl of Pembroke 
 has placed a number'd Stone at every Mile, for the 
 Benefit of Travellers. Between the 5th and 6th 
 Mile is a pretty large Camp, called Chifelbury, 
 probably Ro?nan in the Decline of the Empire. At 
 the End of this Courfe are three or four Celtic Bar- 
 rows. In this Hill is a Quarry of Stone very full of 
 Sea Shells. Not far off, in the Parifli of Tishury, 
 near Warder-cajile^ is a great Entrenchment in a 
 Wood, which was probably a Briti/h Town near 
 the Nadder. 
 
 Returning, we fee, upon the higheft Eminence 
 which overlooks Wilton^ and the fertile Valley at 
 the Union of the Nadder and Willy^ the noted 
 Place called Kjng-harrow^ mentioned p. 267. This 
 is certainly Celtick^ hy^Dt. Stukeley, and, with great 
 Probability, the very Tomb of that Carvilius^ who 
 attacked Cafar's Sea-camp in ordor to divert his 
 renown'd Enemy from his clofe Purfuit oi Cafibelan. 
 
 This 
 
Wilts. Great Britain. i^f 
 
 This Prince is fuppofed to have kept his Royal Re- 
 fidence at Carvilium, now PFilton, near which Place 
 King Edgar's Queen fpent the latter Part of her 
 Life in a religious Retirement, and for that Purpofe 
 built a Houfe there. 
 
 The Downs and Plains in this Part of England 
 being fo open, and the Surface fo little fubjed to 
 Alteration, there are more Remains of Antiquity to 
 be feen upon them, than in other Places ; and, as 
 they tell us, no lefs than Three-and-fifty antient 
 Incampments, or Fortifications, in this one County^ 
 ibme of which are very vifible, and are of different 
 Forms, and ere(Sted by different Nations ; asBritl/h, 
 Danijh, Saxon, and Roman ; particularly at Ebb' 
 down, Burywood, Oldburgh-hill, Cummer ford. Rounds 
 way-down, St. jnne's-hiil, Bratton-cajile, Clay-hill^ 
 Stonrnton-park, Wh'itecole-hall, Battlebiiry, Scrath- 
 bury, Tanesbury, Frippsbury, Suthbury-hill, Ambref- 
 bury, mentioned before ; Great Bodwyn, Eajierley, 
 Merdon, Aubery, Martenfcil-hill, Barbury-cajile, &c, 
 At Aubery, or Aukbury, in particular, on the Eaft 
 Side of the Avon, by Great Dornford, is a very 
 large Camp, covering the whole Top of a Hill. 
 On the other Side of the River, a little higher up, 
 is Vefpafian's Camp, called The Walls. Near thefe 
 are two other Camps, which feem Remains of 
 Vefpafmi's Viftories, and intimate that he fubdued 
 the Country by Inches. 
 
 North of thefe is Martin' s-hall-hill, a vaft Sta- 
 tionary Roman Camp. On two Sides the Precipice 
 is dreadfully fleep. The Earl of Winchelfea has a 
 Brafs Alexander Severus found here ; on tlieReverfe, 
 Jupiter fulminans. On the Wefl Side, at Top of 
 the Hill, without the Camp, is a round Pit full of 
 good Spring-water, always to the Brim (but never 
 overflowing) jn the dryeft Sunimers ; which at thofe 
 Seafons is of the greateft Service to the Country 
 round \ and 7^houfands of Cattle are every Day 
 
 driven 
 
2S6 ^ T O U R thro" Hants. 
 
 driven thither, from a confiderable Diftance, to 
 drink. I am informed, there is fuch another upon 
 the Top of Chute-hill^ South-eaft from hence, very- 
 high, and no other Water within fome Miles of it. 
 The Profped from Martin's- hall is exceeding fine. 
 
 At Farlo, not far from Clarendon-Park^ was the 
 Birth-place of Sir Stephen Fox, and vi'here the Town, 
 fharing in his good Fortune, fhews feveral Marks of 
 his Bounty ; as particularly the" building a New 
 Church from the Foundation, and getting an A61 
 of Parliament paiTed, for making it Parochial, it 
 being but a Chapel of Eafe before to an adjoining 
 Parifh : zKo ^iv Stephen built and endowed anAlms- 
 houfe here for Six poor Women, with a Mafter and 
 a Free-fchool. The Mafter is to be a Clergyman, 
 and to officiate in the Church, which, including the 
 School, is a very good Maintenance. 
 
 I am now. to purfue my firft Defign, and fhall 
 take the Weft Part of Wiltjhire in my Return, where 
 are feveral Things to be ftill taken notice of. In the 
 mean time I went on to Langbro\ a fine Seat of my 
 Lord Colerain, which is very well kept. 
 
 From hence in my Way to the Sea- fide I came to 
 New-Foreji, of which I have fajd fomething already 
 with relation to the great Extent of Ground ; which 
 Jies wafte, and has a vaft Quantity of large Timber. 
 
 This Part of the Country is a lafting Monument 
 of the Conqueror's Tyranny and Oppreffion,who laid 
 it open and wafte for a Foreft, and for Game ; for 
 which Purpofe he unpeopled the Country, pulled 
 down the Houfes and the Churches of feveral 
 Parifhes and Towns, and of abundance of Villages, 
 turning the poor People out of their Habitations and 
 Pofleffions, for the fake of his Deer. The fame 
 Hiftories likewife record, that Two of his own Sons, 
 and parlicLiIarly his immediate Succeftbr William 
 Rufus, loft their Lives in this Foreft \ William Ru- 
 
 fta 
 
Hants. Great Britain. 287 
 
 fus being fhot with an Arrow directed at a Deer, 
 whicii glancing on a Tree, changed its Courfe, and 
 ftriking the King full on the Breaft, killed him. 
 And another Son, whilfi: in hct Purfuit of the Game, 
 was caught up by the Bo'^ghs of a Tree, and 
 hanged like Ahfalom. Tliefe they relate as juft 
 Judgments of God on the cruel Devaftation made 
 here by the Conqueror, and they ftill fhew the 
 Tree on which the Arrow glanced. In King 
 Charles IPs Time, the Tree was ordered to be fur- 
 rounded with a Pale, great Part of which is now 
 fallen down ; and whether the Tree be really fo old 
 or not, is to me a great Qiieftion, the Action being 
 about 700 Years ago. 
 
 I cannot omit mentioning here a Propofal made 
 fome Years ago to the Lord Treafurer Godolphln^ for 
 repeopling this P^oreft, which I can be more particular 
 in than any other Man, becaufe I had the Honour 
 to draw up the Scheme, and argue it before that 
 noble Lord, and fome others who were principally 
 concerned at that time in bringing over, or rather 
 providing for, when they were come over, the poor 
 Inhabitants of the Palatinate j a Thing in itfelf 
 commendable ; but, as it was managed,, made of 
 no Benefit to England^ and miferable to thofe poor 
 People. 
 
 Some Perfons being ordered by the noble Lord 
 above-mentioned, to confider of Meafures how thofe 
 poor People fhould be provided for, v/ithout Injury 
 to the Publick, New Forest in Hampjhire was 
 finQ;led out to be the Place for them. 
 
 Here it was propofed to draw a great fquarc Line, 
 containing 4000 Acres of Lgnd, marking out Two 
 large Highways or Roads thro' the Centre, crofiing 
 both Ways, fo that there fliouM be 1000 Acres 
 in each Divifion, exclufive of the Land contained In 
 the (aid Crofs-roads. 
 
 l^hcn 
 
288 ^TOUR thrd ' Hants. 
 
 Then to fingle out 20 Men and their Famihes, 
 who ftiould be recommended as honeft induftrious 
 People, expert in, or at leaft capable of being in- 
 ftruded in Hufbandry. To each of thefe fhould be 
 parcelled, but in equal Diftributions, 200 Acres of 
 this Land ; fo that the whole 4000 Acres fhould be 
 diftributed to the faid 20 Famihes, for which they 
 Ihould have no Rent to pay, and be liable to no 
 Taxes, but fuch as would provide for their own 
 Sick or Poor, repairing their own Roads, k^c. This 
 Exemption to continue for 20 Years, and then to 
 pay each 50 /. a Year to the Crown. 
 
 To each' of thefe Famihes, it was propofed to 
 advance 200 /. in ready Money, as a Stock to fet 
 them to work, and to hire and pay Labourers, to 
 inclofe, clear, and cure the Land ; which it was 
 fuppofed, the firft Year, could not be fo much to 
 their Advantage as following Years, allowing them 
 Timber out of the Foreft to build themfelves Houfes 
 and Barns, Sheds and Offices, as they fhould have 
 Occafion j alfo for Carts, Waggons, Ploughs, 
 Harrows, and the like neceflary Things. 
 
 Thefe 20 Families would, by the Confequence of 
 their own Settlements, employ and maintain fuch 
 a Proportion of others of their ov/n People, that the 
 whole Number of Palatines would have been provided 
 for, had they been many more than they were, and 
 that without being any Burden upon, or Injury to the 
 People of England \ on the contrary, they would 
 have been an Advantage, and an Addition of Wealth 
 and Strength to the Nation, and to the Country in 
 particular, where they fhould be thus feated. 
 
 Two Things would have been anfwered by the 
 Execution of this Scheme 3 wz. 
 
 I. That the annual Rent to be received for all 
 thofe Lands after 20 Years, would abundantly 
 I pay the Publick for the firft Difburfes, which 
 
 would 
 
Hants. GfREAT BRitAiN. .^^y. 
 
 would amount to 80,000 /. that Rent being 
 then to amount to 40,000 /. per Annum. ' 
 2. More Money than would have done this, waS'' 
 thrown away upon them here, to keep them -in 
 Sufpenfe, and afterwards ftarve them ; fending 
 them a begging all over the Nation, and (hip- 
 ping them off to perifh in other Countries, 
 
 The Spot where the Defign was laid out^ was near 
 'Lindhurjl, in the Road from Ru7nfey to Lymington : 
 whither I now directed my Courfe. 
 
 Lymington is a little, but populous Sea-port, flrand- 
 ing oppolite to the Ifle of Wight ^ in the narrow Part 
 pf the Streight, which Ships fometimes pafs thro' in 
 fair Weather, called the Needles \ and right againft 
 the antient Town of '^ou{h-Yarm'outh ^ in that Iflc 
 which I have mentioned before. This Town of 
 Lymington is chiefly noted for making excellent Salt ; 
 from whence all thefe South Parts of Englsnd are 
 fupplied, as well by Water as Land- carriage. 
 
 From hence are but few Towns on the Sea-coaft 
 Well, tho' feveral confiderable Rivers empty them- 
 felves into the Sea ; nor are there any Harbours or 
 Sea-ports of Note, except Pool. As for Chrijl- ' 
 church.^ tho' it ftaTids at the Mouth of ^^-^Jrjon-^ 
 which, as I have faid, comes down from Salisbury., 
 and brings with it all the Waters of South and Eafb 
 Parts of Wiltflnre., and receives alfo the Stow and 
 Piddle.^ Two Dorfetjhire Rivers, which bring witli 
 them all the Waters of the North Part of Dorfetjhire -^ 
 yet it is a very inconfiderable poor Place, I'carce 
 worth feeing, and lefs worth mentioning in this 
 Account. But here I will clofe this my fiftli Let- 
 ter, with affuring you, that i am 
 
 O 
 
^rOVK thro' 
 
 Porfet. 
 
 LETTER VL 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A Description of the County of 
 Dorset, Fart ^Somersetshire, 
 Devonshire, Cornwai^l, ^c, 
 
 SIR, 
 
 NOW enter into the County of Dor- 
 fet j and firft I rode North- weft into 
 it, to fee the antient Town of mm-r, 
 hiivn^ or Wmhurnmi7Tfler, It ftands 
 in a large extended fertile Vale, like a 
 Meadow, with much Wood about it, 
 Thefe Rivers abound with Fifti. Here was a Nun- 
 nery built in the Year 712, by Cuthherga^ Sifter to 
 King Ina.^ The Church is a very great one, an-* 
 tient, and well-buik, with a vei^ firm ftrong fquare; 
 Tower, confiderably high ; but was, without doubt^ 
 much finer, when on the Top of it flood a moft ex- 
 quifite Spire, finer and taller, if Fame may be cre- 
 dited, than that of Salifbury y and, by its Situation 
 in a plainer, flatter Country, vifible, no queftion, 
 much farther : but this moft beautiful Ornament v/as 
 blown down by a fudden Tempeft of Wind, as ihty 
 CpU us, in the Year 1622. 
 
Dorfet. Great Britain. 291 
 
 In this Church are the Monuments of feveral noble 
 FamUies, and of King Etheldred, who was flain in 
 Battle by the Danes. He was a Prince fam'd for 
 Piety and Religion, and, according to the Zeal of 
 thofe Times, was efteem'd a Martyr ; b-caufe he 
 died fighting for his Religion and his Country, againft 
 the Pagan Danes. The Infcription upon his Gra\'e is 
 prefcrv'd, and has been carefully rej)air'd fo as eafily 
 to be read, and is as follows: 
 
 In hoc loco qu'icfclt Corpus S, Etheldredi, Regis 
 Weft Saxonum, Martyris ^ qui Anno Dotn. 
 DCCCLXXII. xxiii. Aprilis, per Alanus Da- 
 norum Paganorum Occubuit. 
 
 That isy 
 
 Here refts jthe Body of St.* Etheldred^ King of 
 the TVeJi Saxons^ and Martyr, who fell by the 
 Hands of the Pagan Danes ^ in the Year of our 
 Lord 872, the 23d of April. 
 
 Here alfo are the Monuments of the great Mar- 
 chionefs of Exeter, Mother of Edward Co/irtnty^ 
 Earl of Devonjhire, and hil of the Family of Court- 
 ney s, who enjoy 'd that Honour ; as alfo of 'John dn 
 Beaufort^ Duke of Somerfet^ and his Wife, Grand- 
 mother of King Henry V II. by her Daughter Alar- 
 garet Countefs of Richmond, 
 
 This laft Lady I mention, becaufe fhe was Foun- 
 drefs of a very fine Free-School, which has fmcc 
 been inlarg'd, and had a new Benefa£l:refs in Queen 
 Elizabeth^ who augmented the Stipend, and annex'd 
 ■it to the Foundation. The famous Cardinal Pool 
 was Dean of this Church before his Exaltation, 
 
 The Inhabitants of JVimburn?ninJier are numerous, 
 but poor, and chiefly maintain'd by the Manufa6lure 
 of knitting Stockens, which employs great Part of 
 O 2 the 
 
292 A TOUR thro' Dor fet. 
 
 the County of Dorfet^ of which this is the firftTowii 
 Eaftward. 
 
 Wimhourn St. Gileses, in this Neighbourhood, is a 
 very handfome Seat belonging to the Earl of Shaftef- 
 hury. 
 
 From hence I went to Rlngwood^ upon the River 
 Avon^ over a deep fandy Moor. 'Tis a large thriving 
 Place, full of good new Brick Houfes, feated by the 
 Side of a great watry Valley, the River dividing it- 
 felf into feveral Streams, and frequently overflowing 
 large Quantities of the Meadow. Here they deal 
 pretty much in Leather, Stockens, Druggets, and 
 narrow Cloth. 
 
 South of IVimburn, over a fandy, wild and barren 
 Country, we came to Pool^ a confiderable Sea-port, 
 and indeed the moft confiderable in all this Part of 
 England ; for here 1 found fome Ships, fome Mer- 
 chants, and fome Trade ; efpecially here was a good 
 Number of Ships fitted out every Year to the New- 
 foundland Fifhing, in which the Pool Men have been 
 particularly fuccefsful for many Years paft. 
 
 The Town fits in the Bottom of a great Bay, or 
 Inlet of the Sea, which, entering at one narrow Mouth, 
 opens to agreat Breadth within the Entrance, and comes 
 up to the very Shore of this Town ; it runs alfo Weft 
 up almoft to Wareham., a little below which it re- 
 ceives the Froorn and Piddle^ ihe Two principal Ri- 
 vers of the County. 
 
 This Place is famous for the befl: and biggeft Oy- 
 fters in all this Part of England:^ which the People 
 of Pool pretend to be famous for pickling ; and they 
 are barrell'd up here, and fent not only to London, 
 but to the Wejl-Indies, and to Spain, Italy, and 
 other Parts. 'Tis obferv'd, more Pearl are found 
 in the Pool Oyfters, and larger, than in any others 
 in England. 
 
 As the Entrance into this large Bay is narrow, fo 
 it is made narrower by an Ifland called Brankfey, 
 
 which 
 
Dorfet. Great Britain. 293 
 
 which lying in the very Mouth of the PalTage, divide^ 
 it into two, and where there is an old Caftle, call'd 
 Brankfey Caftle, built to defend the Entrance, and 
 was of no fniall Advantage to the Trade of this Port, 
 in the time of the late War with France. 
 
 Wareham ha& been a Roman Town. There has 
 been a Gaftle by tlie Water- fide. Weft of the Bridge, 
 built by King William I. perhaps upon the Roman, 
 'Tis an old Corporation, now decay 'd, the Sands 
 obftrudting the PafTage of the Veflels, And Pool 
 being better feated, from a F iflier- To wn, has'ri fen 
 to be a rich Sea-port. They fay here have been 
 a Mint, and many Parifli-Churches, of which Three 
 remain. I faw a ruinous Religious Houfe, as I 
 pafs'd by the River Frome. This Haven is of vaft 
 Extent, like a Sea, having a narrow Entry. Two 
 Rocks about Corf-Cajik have an odd Appearance 
 hence. 
 
 South of Wareham^ and between the Bay I have 
 mention'd, and the Sea, lies a large Track of Land, 
 which being furrounded by the Sea, except on one 
 Side, is call'd an Ifland, tho' it is really more pro- 
 perly a Peninfula. This Track of Land is better 
 inhabited than the Sea Coaft of this Weft End of 
 Dorfetjhire generally is, and the Manufacture of 
 Stockens is carry'd on there alfo. It is call'd The 
 Ifle of Purbeck, and has in the middle of it a large 
 Market-town, call'd Corf ; and from the fomous 
 Caftle there, the whole Tawn. is now call'd Corf- 
 Caftle. 
 
 This Part of the Country is eminenf for vaft 
 Qiiarries of Stone, which is cut out flat, and ufed in 
 London in great Quantities, for paving. Court-yards, 
 Alleys, Avenues to Houfes, Kitchens, Foot-ways 
 on the Sides of the High-ftreets,- and the like ; and 
 is very profitable to the Place, as alfo in the Num- 
 ber of Shipping employed in bringing it to London; 
 Tiiere are alfo feveral Rocks of very good Marble,. 
 
 O 3 only 
 
2 5)4, ^ T O U R thro Doffet. 
 
 only th?.t the Veins in the Stone are not black and 
 white, as the Italian^ but grey, red, and other Co- 
 lours, It is alfo noted for excellent Tobacco-pipe 
 Clay, fold at Londoyi for Thirty Shillings per Ton, 
 
 From hence to Weymouth we rode in View of 
 the Sea. The Country is open, and in fome re- 
 fpe6l:s pleafant, but not like the Northern Parts of 
 the Country, which are all fine Carpet Ground, and 
 the Herbage fo fweet, that their Sheep are efleem'd 
 the beft in Enjland, and their Wool extremely fine. 
 
 Fro n hence we turned up to Dorchejier, the 
 County Town. It is regular and clean. The 
 Jfening-jireet enters it by the North of Winterhurn 
 at IVeji-gate. This is by the ignorant Country- 
 people referr'd to- the Work of the Devil, who, they 
 lay, caft it up in a Night's time. The Foundations of 
 the antient Roman Vv^all appear quite round the 
 Town ; but Eaftward a Street is built upon it, and 
 the Ditch fill'd up : 'tis ftill call'd The Walls ; for 
 that way the Town is fwell'd out into a confiderable 
 Village, with a Church, and handfome Tower, 
 nam'd Fordington or Far'ington. There are Three 
 other Churches in the Town, and the Streets are wide 
 and handfome. On the South and Weft Side, with- 
 out the Walls, a handfome Walk of Trees is planted, 
 looking pleafantly into the Country ; the' being com- 
 mon S) camores, they are inconvenient by harbouring 
 Flies. The Banks of the River here are fteep ; for the 
 Town ftands on high Ground. Beyond the River 
 tire Meadows, and warm fandy Lands ; on this Side, 
 the fine chalky Downs, pleafant for riding, and pro- 
 fitable in excellent Grain. The Air muft needs be 
 wholfome, the Climate warm, and a fufBcient Di- 
 ftance from the Sea. The People of Fordington rofe 
 in Arms, and prevented the Farmers from levelling a 
 great Barrow. The late Rev. Mr. Place^ known 
 for his Philofophical Works, liv'd here, and pofTefs'd 
 a great Quantity of Roman CoinSy call'd here Dorn- 
 
 moneys 
 
Dorfet. Great Britain. iqI 
 
 money^ or King Dor's Money. Near this Place is a 
 noble Roman Amphitheatre. The Vulgar call it 
 Maumhury ; but have no Notion of its Purpofc, 
 tho' 'tis a common Excuriioa for the Inhabitants ; 
 and the Terrace on the Top is a noted Place of Ren- 
 dezvous, affording an agreeable circular Walk, a Pro- 
 fpea of the Town, and wide Plains of Corn Fields , 
 all around. 
 
 Dorcbejier is a regular Town, with handfonie wide 
 Streets, but the Houfes, tho' built of Stone, are old 
 and low. It is kept very clean, by rcafon of its high 
 Situation, and the River on which it is fituated. 
 
 The Inhabitants Care in fetting the able Poor to 
 work, and relieving the Aged and Impotent, is high- 
 ly praife-worthy. And Sir Jcjlah Child^ in his 
 Treatife on Trade, recommends their Example as 
 worthy to be followed by other Places. It is famous 
 alfo for excellent Beer. 
 
 On the pleafant Downs round this Town, they 
 told me, there were 600,000 Sheep fed within Six 
 Miles of the Town every way, which is 12 Miles 
 in Diameter, and 36 Miles in Circumference ; and 
 when I viewed the Country round, I confefs I could 
 not but incline to believe it. 
 
 It is obfervable of tliefe Sheep, that they are ex- 
 ceedingly fruitful j and the Ewes generally bringing 
 Two Lambs, they are for that Reafon bought by all 
 the Farmers thro' the Eaft Part of England, who 
 come to Burford Fair in this County for that Pur- 
 pofe ; and carry them into and Surrey Eaftward, 
 and into Buckinghamjhire, Bedford/hire, and Oxford- 
 Jhire North. Even our Barijie ad-Downs in Surrey^ 
 (o fam'd for good Mutton, is fupplied from this 
 Place, The Herbage of thefe Downs is full of the 
 moft aromatick Plants, fuch as nourifti the Sheep to 
 a great Degree, and the Sheeps Dung again nourifhes 
 that i fo that the Vallevs are render'd extremelv 
 O 4 fruitful 
 
^9(> ^ T O U R fhro'' Dorfet. 
 
 fruitful by the wafhing of the Water in hafty 
 Showers from ofF thefe Hills. 
 
 From Dorchejier it is Six Miles to the Sea-fide 
 South, and the Ocean in View almoft all the Way: 
 The firfjt Towns we come to are Weymouth and Mel- 
 comb, two Towns lying at the Mouth of a little 
 JRivulet, call'd The Wey, for it fcarce deferve,s the 
 Name of a River : hov/ever, the Entrance makes a 
 very good, tho' fmall. Harbour, and they are join'd 
 by a wooden Bridge, fo that nothing but the Har- 
 bour parts them ; yet they are feparate Corporations, 
 and choofe each of them Two Members of Parlia- 
 ment. 
 
 Weymouth is a fweet, clean, agreeable Town,, 
 (coniidering its low Situation) and clofe to tht Sea : 
 'tis well-built, and- has. a great many fubftantial 
 .li^erchants in it, who drive a confiderable Trade,, 
 and^ have a great Number of Ships belonging to the 
 Town: they carry on, in time of Peace, a Trade 
 with France ; but befides this, they trade alfo to. 
 ^dr-t7!gal^ Spain, Newfoundland, and Virginia ; and 
 !52vc a large Correfpondsnce up in the Country for 
 i^iQ Confumptlon of their Returns. The Wine and, 
 Newfoundland Trade are both confiderable here ; and 
 they have a Cuftom-houfe and, good Key. 
 
 Without the Ha: hour is an old Caftle, call'd 
 Sandfoot CafiU j and over-againft them is Portland 
 Cajile, fituated in the Me of that Name, and the 
 i^oad called Portland Road, which affords a fafe. 
 Harbour for Ships in bad Weather. 
 
 From this Ifle of Portland comes our beft and 
 whiteft Free-ftone, with which the Cathedral of 
 St. Paul's, the Monument, and all the publiclc Edi- 
 fices in the City of London, are chiefly built ; and 
 the Quarries whence thefe Stones are dug, are well 
 worth the Obfervation of a Traveller. 
 
 The Ifland is indeed little more than one conti- 
 nued Rock of Free-ftone, about Seven Miles in Com- 
 
 pafsj. 
 
Dorfet. Great Britain* 2pf 
 
 pafs, and the Height of the Land Is fuch, that from 
 this Ifland they fee, in clear Weather, above half 
 over the Chanel to France, tho' here 'tis very 
 broad. The Sea ofF this Ifland, and efpecially to 
 the Weft of it, is counted the moft dangerous Part 
 of the Britijh Chanel. Due Souths, there is almoft 
 a continued Difturbance in the Waters, by reafon 
 of what they call Two Tides meeting,; which I 
 take to be no more than the Sets of the Currents 
 from the French Coaft, and from the Engl'ijh Shore : 
 this they call Portland Race ; and feveral l^ips, not 
 aware of thefe Currents, have been embay'd to 
 the Weft of Portland, and driven on Shore on the^ 
 Beach^ (of whichl fliall fpeak prefentk) where tliey- 
 have been loft. 
 
 To prevent this Danger, and guide the Mariner 
 in thefe Diftrefles, they have fet up Two Light- 
 houfes on the Two Points of that Ifland, whicfe 
 are very ufeful and ferviceable to Ships. 
 
 This Ifland, tho' feemingly miferable, and thinly 
 inhabited, yet the Inhabitants being almoft all Stone- 
 cutters, we found there were no very poor People 
 among them ; and when they collected Money for 
 the rebuilding St.' Paul's, they got more in this Ifland 
 than in the great Town of Dorchejier. 
 
 Tho' Portland ^zniiS a League from the main 
 Land of Britain, yet it is almoft join'd by a pro- 
 digious Riff of Beach, that is to fay,.of fmall Stones 
 caft up by the Sea, which runs from the If -^nd fo 
 near the Shore of England, that they ferry over with 
 a; Boat and a Rope, the Water not bSing abo\ e 
 half a Stone's-throw over ; and the faid Riff of 
 Beach ending;, as it were, at that Inlet of Water, 
 tarns away and runs parallel with the Shore 
 
 ouite to Ahhotjkiry, a Town about Seven Miles 
 beyond JVeymoiith, 
 
 I name this to explain what I faid before, of Ships 
 being embay'd and loft here : this is when, coming 
 O 5 from 
 
298 A rOVK thro Dorfet 
 
 from the Weftward, they omit to keep a good OJing^ 
 or are taken fliort by contrary Winds, and cannot 
 weather the high Land of Portland ; but are driven 
 between Portland and the main Land, and run on 
 Shore on that vaft Beach. 
 
 On the Infide of this Beach, and between it and 
 the Land, is the faid Inlet of Water, which they 
 ferry over, , as above, to pafs and repafs to and from 
 Portland. This Inlet opens at about Two Miles 
 grows very broad, and makes a kind of 
 Lake within the Land of a Mile and a half broad, 
 and near Three Miles in Length, the Breadth un- 
 equal. At the fartheft End Weft of this Water is 
 a large Decoy, and the Verge of the Water well 
 grown with AVood, and proper Groves of Trees 
 for Cover' for tTie Fowl. In the open Lake, or 
 broad Part, is a continual Affembly of Swans : 
 here they live, feed and breed ; and the Number of 
 them is fuch, that, I believe, I did not fee fo few 
 as 7 or 8000. We faw feveral of them upon the 
 Wing, very high in the Air ; whence we fuppofed, 
 they flew over the Riff of Beach, which parts the 
 Lake from the Sea, to feed on the Shores. 
 
 From this Decoy Weft, the Lake narrows, and 
 at laft almoft clofes, till the Beach joins the Shore ; 
 and fo Portland may be faid not to be an Ifland, 
 but Part of the Continent. And now we came to 
 Abbotfoury., a Town antiently famous for a great 
 Monaftery, and now eminent for nothing but its 
 Ruins. 
 
 From hence we went on to Bridport^ 2l pretty 
 large, but not well-built Corporation Town on the 
 Sea Shore ; here we faw Boats all the way on the 
 Shore fifliing for Mackerel, which they take in the 
 eafieft manner imaginable, and in fuch prodigious 
 Plenty, that there has been a Watch fet to prevent 
 Farmers dunging their Land with them, which, it 
 was thought, might be apt to infed the Air, 
 
Dorfet. Great Britain. 299 
 
 In the Year 1722 an A8: paffed for reftoring and 
 rebuilding the Haven and Piers of Bridport, in or- 
 der to bring it to its antient flourifhing State ; for 
 heretofore it was a Place of great Trade and Com- 
 merce ; but by reafon of a great Sicknefs, which 
 formerly fwept away the greateft Part of its moft 
 wealthy Inhabitants, and by other Accidents, the 
 Haven became neglected, and choaked with Sands ; 
 the Piers fell to Ruin, and the Town, of confe- 
 quence, to Decay ; fo that there was no Security for 
 Ships that happened to be driven by Strefs of Wea- 
 ther into the deep and dangerous Bay, wherein the 
 Haven formerly was, which occafioned frequent 
 Shipwrecks. The Ad: therefore authorizes the Bai- 
 liffs and Burgefles of Brtdport to levy certain Tolls 
 and Duties on divers Merchandizes, ^c. in order to 
 reftore the faid Piers and Harbour. 
 
 Brtdport was formerly the only Place for twifting 
 of Ropes for the Royal Navy : and it is ftlU ufed for 
 that Purpofe, the neighbouring Lands yielding plen- 
 ty of Hemp. 
 
 From Bridpcj't we came to Lyme, a Town par- 
 ticularly made famous by the Landing of the Duke 
 of Monmouth, June 11. 1685, in the Time of King 
 James II. with only Twelve Men. Many of his 
 Party were afterwards put to Death on the Spot, 
 and their Limbs hung up in the Tov/n. Before that 
 Time the Duke ofTufcany fet Footii^ liere in his 
 Tour to England. 
 
 This is called Lyme - Regis : it is 9 Town of good 
 Figure, and has in it feveral ei^nent Merchants, 
 who carry on a confiderable Tra^e to France, Spain, 
 Newfoundland, and the Stre^hts ; and tho' they 
 have neither Creek or Ba/, Road or River, they 
 have a good Harbour ; 'an/ fuch as is not in all Bri- 
 tain behdes, if in the Vorld. 
 
 It is a maffy Pile Building, confifting of high 
 and thick Walls c/Stone, raifed, at firft, with all 
 O 6 the 
 
3 GO ^ T O U R thro' Dorfet- 
 
 the Methods that Art could devife, and maintain'd 
 nqw with very little Difficulty : the Walls are raifcd- 
 in the main Sea, at a good Diftance from the Shore. 
 It coniifts of one main and folld Wall of Stone,, 
 large enough for Carts and Carriages to pafs on the 
 Top, and to admit Houfes and Ware-houfes to be 
 built on it ; fo that it is broad as aStreet. Oppofite 
 to this, but farther into the Sea, is another Wall of 
 the fame Workmanfhip, which croffes the End of 
 the fifft, and cpiiies about with a Tail, parallel to 
 that.. 
 
 Between the Point of the firft or main Wall, is 
 theyEjitrance into the Port ; and the fecond or op- 
 pioj^te Wall breaking the Violence of the Sea from 
 thq. Entrance, . the. Ships go into. the Bafm, and ride 
 there as fecure. as in a Mill-pond,, or Wetrdock. 
 
 This Work is call'd the Cohb:. the Cuftom-houfe 
 ©fficers have a Lodge and Ware-houfe upon it. It 
 snight be ftrengthen'd with a Eort, and the Walls . 
 ;themfelves are firm enough to carry what Guns they 
 pleafe to plant upon it ; but they did not feem to 
 ^bink it needful : and as the Shore is convenient fo» 
 batteries, they have fome Guns planted in proper 
 Places, for the Defence of the C<?^^, ; and the 
 Towrt. 
 
 Thiis Town is under the Government of a Mayor 
 arid Aldermen, and may pafs for a Place of Wealthy 
 conhdering the BJgnefs of it. Here we found the • 
 Merchants legan to trade in the Pilchard Fifliing, 
 tho' not to fo f onfiderable a Degree as they do farther 
 Weft ; the Pilci^ards feldom coming up fo high Eaft- 
 ward as PortlanMi and not very often fo high as 
 Lyme. 
 
 I vifited from-hent^ fomC; of the Towns in the 
 IJortii-weft Part of this Country, as Blandford, on 
 the River Stour^ in the Rc^ between Salijlmry and 
 f>{>rchef[er, a handfome well-built Town, plcafantly 
 leaied^^tn a Plexure of the RWer, before charmiiig 
 
 Meadows, 
 
Dorfet. Great Britain. ^oi 
 
 Meadows, and rich Lands. Wood thrives exceed- 
 ingly here. Indeed this County is a fine Variety of 
 Downs, Woods, Lawns, Arable and Pafture Land, 
 rich Valleys, and an excellent Air. The dry Eafter- 
 ly Winds, the cold Northern, and the Weftern 
 Moifture, are temper'd by the warm Southern faline 
 Breezes, wafted hither from the Ocean. But Bland- 
 ford is chiefly famous for making the fineft Bone- 
 lace in Englandy where they fhewed me, in my 
 firft Vifit to it, forae fo exquifitely fine, as I think I 
 never faw better in Flanders, France, or Italy, and 
 which they faid they rated at above 30/. Sterling a- 
 Yard. 
 
 This was the State and the Trade of the Town,, 
 when I was there in my firft Journey : but June 4. 
 1731, the whole Town, except Twenty- fix Houfes,. 
 was confumed by Fire, together, with the Church. 
 The Confternation of the People was fa great, and 
 the Fire fo furious, that few faved any Goods. 
 
 An Aa pafled in 1732,. for the better and more 
 eafy Rebuilding of this Town, and for determining 
 Differences touching Houfes and Buildings burnt 
 down ordemoliflied therein ; and aS' feveral wife Re- 
 gulations were made by it,. Blandford now makes a 
 much better Appearance than ever. 
 
 From Blandford I went Weft to Stourbridge, which, 
 and the Country round, is employ'd in the Manu- 
 fadure of Stockens ; it was once famous for making 
 the fineft, heft, and higheft-pric'd knit Stockens in 
 England ; but that Trade is much decay 'd, by the 
 Increafe of the Knitting-ftocken Engine, or Frame, 
 which has deftroyed the Hand Knitting-trade for fine 
 Stockens thro' the. whole Kingdom, of which I fhall 
 fpeak in another Place. 
 
 From hence I came to SA/V^^wrn, a large and po- 
 pulous Town, with One Coljegiate or Conventual 
 Church, andmay juftly claim to have more Inhabit- 
 ants in it than any Town in Dorfetjhire, tho' it is 
 
 neither 
 
302 >^TOUR thro" Dorfet. 
 
 neither the County Town, nor fends Members to 
 Parliament. It was once a Bifliop's See, which was 
 removed to Salt/bury. The Church is ftill a Reve- 
 rend Pile, and fhews the Face of great Antiquity. 
 Here begins the Medley Cloathing, tho'this 
 
 Town be in Dorfetjhire j of which I fliall fpeak at 
 large in its Place. 
 
 Shaftefhury is alfo on the Edge of this County, ad- 
 joining to Wiltjhire and Dorfetjhire^ being Fourteen 
 Miles from Salijbury, over that fine Down or Car- 
 pet Ground, call'd Salijbury-plain. It is not an 
 extraordinary Town ; but fituated upon the Top of 
 a high Hill, and which clofes the Plain or Downs, 
 and whence a new Scene is prefented, {viz.) a Pro- 
 fpe(a of Somerfet and Wiltpnre, where 'tis all in- 
 clofed, and grown with Woods, Forefts, and planted 
 Hedge-Rows ; the Country rich, fertile and popu- 
 lous, the Towns and Houfes ftanding thick, and 
 being large and full of Inhabitants, ami thofe Inha- 
 bitants fully employ'd in the richeft and moft valua- 
 ble Manufafture in the World, {vi%.) the Englijh 
 Cloathing, as well the Medley, or mix'd Cloathing, 
 as Whites, both for the Home and foreign Trade ; 
 on which I fhall be more particular in my Return 
 thro' the W eft and North Part of Wiltjhire. 
 
 Shaft ejbury has however lately received fome Im- 
 provements from the Generofity of a neighbouring 
 Gentleman, and particularly in a fine Plantation on 
 the Top of Park-Hill ; which he was fo kind as to 
 indulge the Inhabitants with for a Place of Walking 
 and Diverfion ; but attempting, on the Strength of 
 his good Offices to the Town, to prefcribe to them 
 in the Choice of a Member of Parliament, he has 
 not met with the grateful Return he might have 
 expedled. Violence having been done to the very 
 Plantation he had fo generoufly devoted to the pub- 
 lick Service and Pleafure of the Inhabitants. 
 
 In 
 
Somerf. Great Britain. 303 
 
 In my Return to my Weftern Progrefs, I pafs'd 
 fome little Part of Somerfetjhire^ as thro' Evil^ or 
 Teovil, upon the River Ivil ; in going to which we 
 defcend a long fteep Hill, called Babylon-hill; but 
 from what Original,! could find none of the Country 
 People able to inform me. 
 
 Northward upon an high fandy Hill, by the Bank 
 <$f the River /w/, is z Roman Camp called CbeJIerton; 
 under which lies the Town of Sandy, the Salinas of 
 the Romans, where abundance of Roman a.nd Britijh 
 Antiquities have been found, and immenfe Quantities 
 of Coins. 
 
 Teovil is a Market- town of good Refort, and 
 fome little Cloathing is carried on, in and near it. 
 Its main Manufacture at this Time is Gloves. It 
 deals alfo in Corn, Cheefe, Hemp, and all Sorts of 
 Provifions. 
 
 It cannot pafs my Obfervation here, that when we 
 are come this Length from London, the Dialeil: of 
 the EngllJhTongue, or the Country way of exprefling 
 themfelves, is not eafily underftood. It is true, that 
 it is fo in many Parts of England befides, but in none 
 in fo grofs a Degree as in this Part. As this Way of 
 boorifh Speech is in Ireland called the Brogue upon 
 the Tongue, fo here 'tis named Jouring. It is not 
 poffible to explain this fully byWriting, becaufe the 
 Diiference is not fo much in the Orthography, as in 
 the Tone and Accent ; their abridging the Speech, 
 Cham, for / am ; Chill, for / will ; Don, for do on, 
 or put on j and Doff, for do off, or put off; and the 
 like. 
 
 From Evil or Teovil we came to Crookorn, thence 
 to Chard, which immediately brought me into 
 Devon/hire. 
 
 It may not be unacceptable here to infert a general 
 Defcription of this large County, which may con- 
 vey to the Reader fome Jdea gf the Nature of the 
 
 Soil, 
 
3~o4 T O U R thro' Derom 
 
 Soil, its Produftions, and the Method of Improve- 
 ment as well as the Manufadtures, and Merchandizes,, 
 on which the Trading Part of the Inhabitants 
 fubfift. 
 
 To begin then : The Weftern Part of the County 
 bordering on Corww^?//, Wz. zhowtTavyJHck., Brid- 
 deflow^ Oakhampton, Holfworthy^ Bideford^ Great 
 TorringtonyChulmleigh, Chagford, Moreton,.Hamp- 
 Jied, and all round the Skirts of Dartmore^ as well 
 as that large Foreft itfelf, confifts of a very coarfe, 
 moory, or fenny Soil, very barren in its Nature ; in 
 fome Places produdive of nothing but a dwarf 
 Kind of Furze of little or noValiie. At other Places 
 grow nothing but Rufties, or a coarfe, four Kini 
 ©f Pafturage, which the Cattle will not feed upon ; 
 and therefore it dries up and withers into a Sedge. 
 The Soil here is generally a ftiff Clay, thro' which 
 the Water cannot 'foak away :. this renders it very 
 unhealthy, efpecially to Sheep, which in- thofe Parts 
 are of a fmall Kind, and very fuhje6l to the Rot, which 
 (in wet Seafons efpecially) deftroys them in great 
 Numbers: and what adds to the Malady is, that 
 neither the Induftry of the Hufbandman (for which 
 this County is defervely famous) nor any Com- 
 poft that has yet been found out, will to anypurpofe 
 cure this Sterility. 
 
 The principal, and indeed the only profitable 
 Return that the Inhabitants can make out of thofe 
 Lands, x% by breeding Black Cattle, for which 
 they are very well adapted ; for here are bred thofe 
 fine Oxen, iri great Numbers, which, by the Drovers 
 of Sdmerfetjhire, and thereabouts, are brought up, 
 ajd in their flat Feeding Lands, betwixt Bridge^ 
 zvater and Wells, (which I have feen almoft covered 
 with them) fattened fit for Smithfield Market, where 
 they drive, and fell them to the Londoners, who 
 have not fo gftod Beef from any other Part of the 
 Kingdom, 
 
 The 
 
Devon. Great Britaii^. 305 
 
 The Northern Parts of the County are of a quite 
 different Nature from the former j for this generally 
 eonfifts of a dry healthy Soil, efpecially about llford- 
 combe, South Moulten, Dtiherton, and all along 
 the Brim of the For.eft of Exmore. Thofe Downs 
 are far from being a luxuriant Feeding, but are very 
 good Grazing. for Sheep ; and being well drefled with 
 Lime, (which is brought over hither by Water from 
 Wales ) Dung^ Sand, and other Compoft, manured by 
 the indefatigable Labour of the Lihabitants, produce 
 tolerable Crops of Corn. I fay tolerable ones ; for 
 tho'they far exceed the Productions in Dorfet, Wilts, 
 Hants, &c. (where Sluggiftinefs fo far prevails as to 
 leave Dame Nature dettitute of the leafl human 
 Affiftance) the Fertility is by no means comparable 
 to that of the Eajlern and Middle Parts of the 
 County, in the former of which a rich Marl, in. 
 fome Parts, and a fertile, fandy Soil in others ; 
 and in the latter a fat, ft^ong Soil, of a deep-red 
 Colour, intermixed with Veins of different Kinds 
 of Loam, produce very great Crops of Corn, and 
 Peafe of the beft Kind, not to be excelled in the 
 whole Ifland. Neither doth it fall behind in Mea- 
 dow Ground, and Pafturage, Clover, Eaver, and 
 Trefoil Grafs, and Turneps ; as is evident to a Per- 
 fon who goes thro' any of the Markets, and beholds 
 the fine, well-fed Beef and Mutton, with which, 
 they are plentifully flored. 
 
 Ahont Teingmouth, Dartmouth, Toines, Modbury^ 
 Plymouth, AJhburton, and all the South Parts of the 
 County, (called the S-outh-Hams ) the Lands are ge- 
 nerally of a different Kind from any of the former ; 
 in mofl: Places very good for Arable and Paflure, but 
 efpecially for Cyder Fruits. A great Part of this 
 large Track lies on a Stratum of Marble, which the 
 Inhabitants break up, and burn into Lime ; and 
 therewith drefs their Lands, to their very great Im- 
 grovement. Neither is this aril the Advantage they 
 
 make 
 
306 ^ T O U R thro" Devon. 
 
 make of thofe Quarries ; for in many of them is 
 found Stone, which for its Hardnefs, Soundnefs, and 
 beautiful Veinings, rivals the beft Italian Marbles, 
 and falls very little, if any thing, fhort of them in 
 Luftre. Great Qiiantities of this Stone are fent to 
 London^ and other Places, where they are wrought 
 up for the nobleft Purpoles. At other Places on this 
 South-coaft, are Qiiarries of Slate, for covering 
 Houfes, and this likewife of the beft Kind ; which 
 are not only fetched away by Land-carriage, to the 
 Diftance of Ten, Twelve, and Sixteen Miles, but 
 great Quantities of them are fent Coaft-wife, to a41 
 the ToM^ns on the Britijh Shore ; and exported to 
 Holland, Flanders, and other Places beyond Sea. 
 
 The Reader will not, by this Defcription, con- 
 clude that the Lands in any Part of the County 
 are all one and the fame Kind ; Downs, Fens, Rocks, 
 and Wood- grounds, are interfperfed among the beft 
 Lands ; as there are alfo fome good Arable and 
 Pafture, amongft the moft defolate and barren ; and 
 whoever looks round him in his own Situation, will 
 know in what Senfe to take this general Defcription. 
 To proceed : 
 
 At divers Places are found large Quantities of very 
 good Oak Timber, as well as Afh, Elm, Beech, ^c. 
 and fuch of it as grows in Places whence it can be 
 convey'd either by Land or Water-carriage, to Ply- 
 mouth Dock, are there ferved in for the Ufe of his 
 Majefty's Navy. 
 
 Coppice-ivood is fo very plenty, that altlio' the 
 Woollen Manufacturers take off great Quantities in 
 Charcoal, and yet greater Quantities are expended 
 in common Firing, (there being no Coal raifed in 
 this County) yet the Price is fo low, that the 
 Lands where it thrives well, will not generally pro- 
 duce more than 5 j. ^^-r Acre (communibus annis). 
 The Lands in Devonjhire, fave only the Foreft of 
 Dartmore^ Hallden-hill^ and fome Heaths, Moors, 
 
 and 
 
Devon. Great Britain. 307 
 
 and coarfe Downs of no very large Extent, (which^ 
 for the moft part, are not capable of Improveiijjelit, 
 not twenhy Devonjhire Hufbandry) are— divided into 
 fmall Inclofures, and (in Places where any Shrubs 
 will grow) by quickfet Hedges, banked up Four or 
 Five Feet high with Earth. And as the Inclofures 
 are fmall, fo are the Farms or Tenements in thef6 
 Parts, even to a very manifeft Inconvenience : for 
 the general Method here is, for Gentlemen to leafc 
 out the Tenements of their Manors for 99 Years, 
 determinable on Three Lives ; taking Fines for 
 fuch Leafes, and referving no more than about One 
 Shilling in the Pound of the yearly Value. 
 
 By this means, Men of fmall Fortunes find an 
 Opportunity to lay out the little Money they have, 
 in what they call Purchafmg an Ejiate^ which like- 
 wife ferves for a Settlement upon a Wife, for the 
 Money (he brings. Hence a Family comes on, and 
 craves a Maintenance out of a Farm of perhaps 20 /. 
 a Year ; which furely can produce but a very poor 
 one : whereas 2 or 300 /. funk in this Purchafe, 
 would have enabled him to manage a Farm of 200 /. 
 a Year ; out of which, by Induftry and good Ma- 
 nagement, the Family might not only live in a more 
 plentiful manner, the Children be better educated, 
 and inftrudled to underftand the Bufinefs of tlie 
 Farm j but Money like wife laid up every Year to- 
 wards fetting them out in the fame Method of 
 living. This I take to be the principal Caufe of the 
 Poverty and Hardfliip that appears in Country Places, 
 and of the Difficulty of getting a good Tenant at 
 Rack-rent, for any Farm whofe Value exceeds 100/. 
 a Year. 
 
 I ftiould have mentioned, that in my Way to 
 Chard, I paffed thro' Axminjier, a pretty confiderable 
 Market-town, and the firft in the County of Devon. 
 The great Weflern Road to London goes thro' this 
 Town. Here my Curiofity led me to go into the 
 
 Church, 
 
30^ T O U R thrd Devon; 
 
 Church, and view the Monuments of the Saxon 
 Princes (or rather the Bifhop of Sherburne and Two 
 Dukes) who were flain at the Battle oiBrunahurgh in 
 t'hat Neighbourhood, fought by King Atheljiane with 
 Seven Danijh Princes ; over whom he obtained the 
 Vidlory, in a Field thence calJed' Kinfs- field to this 
 Day. The Monuments of thofe ^^zA-fjw Worthies 
 were under Arches in the Walls of the Church, Two 
 of which have been lately filled up. 
 
 Here, in Memory of the Vidory, King Athel- 
 jiane founded a Minfter for Seven Priefts, which in 
 After- ages were reduced to Two ; for whom a 
 Portion of Land was allotted called Prieji-aller, 
 which, with the Parfonage, no^y belongs to Two 
 Prebendaries of the Church of York. The Manor 
 continued in the Crown till the Reign of King- 
 John^ who gave it to the Lord Brewer, a Daughter 
 and Coheir of which Family ( Alicia ) brought it in 
 Marriage to Lord Mohun Dunjlar, whofe Pofte- 
 rity, with Confent of King Henry TIL Anno Gra- 
 tice, 1246. 8. Id. yan. regnant. H. Fil. 'Johann. 
 Reginaldus Mohun filius Reginaldi & Alicia Brewer 
 fundavit Ahbatiam de Newnham in IlAaner. de Ax- 
 minjier in Com. Devon. Abbot <?///, the 8th of 
 March., 31 Hen. VIII. furrendered it to the King. 
 The yearly Value, at that time, was 227 /. 7 s. 7 d. 
 
 Ford Abbey is in this Neighbourhood, heretofore a 
 ftately Fabrick, lofty and very magnificent, adorned 
 with curious Carvings and Embellifhments of the 
 Gothick kind, fome of whofe Beauties ftill remain, 
 as may be feen in a modern Print thereof, publifhed 
 by Mr. Buck. It was firft founded by Adeliza, 
 Daughter of Baldwin de Brioniis, Baron of Oak- 
 hampton. Anno 1140, and dedicated to the Virgin 
 Mary, for Cijlercian Monks : At the Surrender it 
 was valued at 38 1 /. 10 s. Sd. Half-penny, yearly. 
 
 Near Axminjler lies Kilmington., quafi Kill-men- 
 iowrt, from, the great Slaughter there made at the 
 
 Battle^ 
 
Devon. Grbat Britain. 30^ 
 
 Battle before-mentioned ; and Membury^ i. e. 
 Malm-burgh^ whither the Maimed in that Battlo 
 were fent to be relieved ; now famous for the beft 
 Devonjhire Cheefe. 
 
 At Northleigh, or rather, ^tUplime, (which Ma- 
 nor was formerly the Inheritance of the Abbey of 
 Glajionbury) was born Mr. Nathanael Carpenter, the 
 Author of the Treatife of Geography, and divers 
 ■others Tracts that bear his Name. 
 
 CuUyford^ in this Neighbourhood, was the Habi- 
 tation of Sir Thomas Gates, who in 1609, bound to 
 Virginia, (of which Colony he was then made Go- 
 vernor) was in a violent Tempeft fhipwreck*d, 
 and with Sir George Somers caft on Shore, by which 
 Accident they were made the firft Pofleflbrs of the 
 Ifland of Bermudas, or Summer IJJand. 
 
 This Track abounds with Lands, which were 
 formerly appropriated to Churches and Religious 
 Houfes ; viz. at Smailridge^ Axmouth, Farivood, 
 Salcombe, Dunkerwell, (a Monaftery of Cijiercian 
 Monks) Sidbury, Sid?nouth, Branfcombe, Monketon, 
 Luppit, Awlfcombe, and at divers other Places ; 
 which from the Richnefs of the Soil makes good the 
 Obfervation, That the Religious of thofe Days, 
 made it their chief Endeavour to poflefs themfelves 
 o£ the beft Things of this World. 
 
 At 'Tidwell, alias Tidefuuell, is a Pond or Pool, 
 which boils up like that of the fame Name at Weeden, 
 in Derbyjhire. The fame Road I was before in, 
 brought me from Axminjier to Honiton. 
 
 This is a large and beautiful Market-town, very 
 populous and well-built ; and is fo very remarkably 
 paved with fmall Pebbles, that on both Sides the 
 Way a little Chanel is left fliouldered up ; fo that 
 it holds a fmall Stream of fine clear running Water, 
 with a little fquare Dipping- place left at every Door ; 
 fo that every Family in the Town has a clear clean 
 running Rivulet (as it may be called) juft at their 
 
 own 
 
310 ^ TOUR thro Devon. 
 
 own Door ; and this is much finer, pleafanter, and 
 more agreeable to look on, than that at Salisbury, 
 which they fo much boaft of. 
 
 Here we fee the firft of the Serge- manufafture of 
 Devonjhire ; a Trade too great to be defcribed in 
 Miniature. It takes up this whole County, which is 
 the largeft and moft populous in England, Torkjhire 
 excepted ; but Devonjhire is fo full of great Towns, 
 and thofe Towns fo full of People, and thofe People 
 fo univerfally employ'd in Trade and Manufadures, 
 that it cannot be equall'd in England, nor perhaps in 
 Europe. 
 
 Honiton ftands in the beft and pleafanteft Part of 
 the whole County ; and I cannot but recommend 
 it to Gentlemen who travel this Road, that if they 
 obferve the Profpedt at Honiton for half a Mile, 
 till they come down the Hill, and to the very 
 Entrance into Honiton, the View of the Country is 
 the moft beautiful Landfkip in the World, and I do 
 not remember the like in any one Place in England. 
 'Tis obfervable, that the Market of this Town was 
 kept originally on the Sunday, till it was changed by 
 the Direction of King John. This Town is now 
 much employ'd in the Trade of Lace-making. 
 
 On the Road from Honiton they have a beautiful 
 Profpe£l almoft all the Way to' Exeter, which is 
 12 Miles. 
 
 On the Left-hand of this Road lies the Town 
 of St. Mary Ottery, fo called, as fome fay, from 
 the River Otter, and that from the Otters found 
 formerly in it. This Town was given by King 
 Edward the Confejfor to the Church of St. Mary 
 at Roan in Norfnandy ; but was afterwards bouglit 
 by Grandifon, Bifliop of Exeter, who made of it a 
 Quarter College in lo Edrjard III. and therein 
 placed fecularPriefts, witJi other Minifters, to whom 
 he gave the whole Manor, Pamh,Tythv.*3, Fines, Spi- 
 ritual Profits, &C: .yh.ich amounted to 304 /. 2s. 10 s. 
 yearly. ' Bi^on, 
 
Devon. G r eat Brita i n. 311 
 
 BiSlon^ formerly Bicheton^ was given by William 
 the Conqueror^ to one of his Servants, czWtA William 
 Porto. It afterwards reverted to the Crown, and by 
 Henry I. was given to one John Janitor^ fo called 
 from his Office ; for by his Tenure, he was to keep 
 the Prifon for this County, by which Service it is 
 held to this Day, by the worthy Owner thereof 
 Henry Rolk^ Efq; who is at this time Knight of 
 this Shire. His Anceftor, Sir Henry RoUe, Efq; 
 had it by Marriage with Jnne, the Daughter of Sir 
 Thomas Dennis^ to whofe Family it came from the 
 before- mentioned Janitor^ thro' BalUjler^ Sackville, 
 and Coplejione. 
 
 From hence we came to Exeter., the Capital of 
 the County of Devon., a City which hath often 
 changed its Name : for it was the Pen-Caer and 
 Caer-Eske of theBritons ; the Jugujla of the Romans ; 
 the Ifca Ptokmy ; the Ifca-Damnoniorum of An- 
 tonine ; the Exancejler of the Saxons, which was 
 afterwards abreviated to Excejier and Exeter, from 
 the great Number of Monks tiiere. It had for fome 
 time the JsTame of Monketon, but at length, from 
 that large River which wafties its Walls,, and bears 
 the Name of Exe, (whether from the Foreft of that 
 Kame where it rifes, or the Foreft from it, I can- 
 not determine) it retains that of Exeter, which it 
 feems now to be varying for Exon. It was firfl: 
 fortified with a Stone Wall (which ftill remains in- 
 ^ tire) by King Atheljlane j and v^as for fome time 
 the Seat of the IFeJi-Saxon Kiiigs. 
 
 I'hat the Romans were here, is highly probable, 
 among other Proofs, from their Coins, that have been 
 dug up at divers Places : in particular, a Gold one 
 of JSero at Exeter ; one of Theodofms, near Barn- 
 Jiaple; feveral Silver ones of Scvcrus, and other 
 Emperors ; but efpecially from a great Qiiantity of 
 them dug up about Twenty Years fmce at Exeter, 
 within the Clofe, together with the Urn in which 
 
 they 
 
312 ^ T O U R ihrS Devon. 
 
 they were buried. I faw a great Number of thofe, 
 fome of which were of Silver ; but the greateft Part 
 of them were a Mixture of Tin and Copper ; they 
 had the Impreflion of Gordianut^ Philippus, and 
 other Emperors. 
 
 King Athelftane founded here a Monaftery to St. 
 Mary and St. Peter, for Monks of the Order of St. 
 BenediSl. The Chapel of St. Mary noW fitted up 
 for a Library, and furnifhed with a pretty great 
 Number of Books, (which are but of little Ufe, 
 bccaufe placed in a very confufed "Order) is the very 
 Eaftermoft Part of the Cathedral, and was doubtlefs 
 the firft Beginning of that now handfome Fabrick, 
 King Etheldred founded alfo, within the Clofe, a 
 Houfe for Monks, and another for Nuns. Divers 
 other ReligiouSoHoufes, as the Priories of St. James, 
 St. Nicolas, St. John Baptijl ; the Grey Fryers, &c. 
 were the Work of After-ages. 
 
 The Walls are in pretty good Repair, and make a 
 Walk round the City, with the Pleafure of feeing a 
 fine Country on oppofite Hills, full of Wood, rich 
 Ground, Orchards, Villages, and Gentlemens 
 Houfes. The Beauty of the Place confifts of one 
 long Street, called High-Jireet, broad and ftrait. 
 The Houfes are of a very old, but good Model, 
 fpacious, commodious, and not inelegant. This 
 Street is full of Shops well furniflied, and all forts of 
 Trades look brifk. The People are induftrious and 
 courteous : the Fair Sex are truly fuch, as well as 
 numerous j their Complexion, and generally their 
 Hair, of a fair Caft : they are genteel, difengaged, 
 of eafy Carriage, and good Mien. There has been 
 of late a vaftlncreafe of Buildings within and with- 
 out the City. The Situation renders it of Neccflity 
 clean, dry and airy The Soil thither from Honyton 
 is rather fandy than ftony ; whence it muft needs be 
 very healthful. Tht re are man^- •Bockfellers. In 
 Dr. Mufgrave's Garden ^n Head of the Emprefs 
 
 4 
 
Devon. GreatBritain. 313 
 
 JuUa Domna^ of a Coloflean Size, was dug up. 
 The Head-drefs is fui table to thofe Times ; and 
 neither the Manner nor Carving are defpicable, tho' 
 the Graver has not done it Juftice. 'Tis the nvbleft 
 Reliqiie of BritiJ}} Antiquity which we know of this 
 Sort : 'tis 21 Inches from the Top of the Attire to 
 the Chin, and belonged to a Statue of 12 Feet Pro- 
 portion, originally fet upon fome Temple or Palace. 
 There is alfo an Infcription of Carnillus. 
 
 This Country remarkably abounds with Perfons 
 affli6led with the Gout ; which is attributed to the 
 Cuftom of marling the Lands with Lime, and the 
 great Ufe of poor, fvveet Cyder, efpecially among 
 the meaner People. 
 
 Li the Northern Angle of the City, and higheft 
 Ground, {{.d.nA?> Rugemont-cajlle, once the Refidence 
 of the JVeJ}-Saxon Monarchs, afterwards of the 
 Earls of Cornwall. 'Tis of a fquarifh Figure, not 
 very large, inviron'd with a high Wall, and deep 
 Ditch, It has a Rampire of Earth parallel to tlie 
 Top of the Wall, forming a Terrace, v^hich over- 
 looks the City and Countr)-. Here are tlje Affile- 
 houfe, and a Chapel. 
 
 The Bridge over the Exe is of great Length, and 
 has Houfes on both Sides, and at both Ends, with a 
 confiderable Vacancy in the Middle. In the Guild- 
 hall are the Pic^iures of General Monk, and the 
 Princcfs Henrietta- Maria . 
 
 The Bifliop's See of this Weftern Diocefe hath 
 liad feveral Removes ; for it was firfl: at Bodwjn for 
 the County of Cornwall, and fince that at Tatuton 
 for this County. Afterwards both were joined and 
 placed at Crediton. And laftly, about the Year 
 1050, King Edtvard the Confejjhr, and his Queen 
 Edyth, inthroned Leofrlcus (who had been 'I hree 
 Years Bifhop of Crediton) into the See of Exeter, 
 in the following very folemn manner : 
 
 Vol. L F 0«i 
 
314 ^ T O U R thro' Devon. 
 
 On the South-fide of the high Altar, in the Ca- 
 thedral, were ere£led (and are there ftill to be feen 
 perfect, as when firft made) Three Seats, or Alcoves, 
 adorned with Gothick Carvings, to the Height of 
 about 25 Feet, which are fupported with Brafs 
 Pillars ; in the Middle of thefe was the Bifliop 
 rnftalled, by the King and Queen. The Form of 
 Words thus : 
 
 31 JltpngeCSDtoarti, taking iieofricke hvtt^z Epgi)te 
 i-juinCie, atiD ci!;r!)>ttie my ^ueene hvt t()e ?lefte. Doe 
 
 Cif (^x'0«, Uiptl]e a g^ate ^efj>re of ^boiuioance of 
 Bieffpnges; to alt fuel] a5 fijail fiivDer anDencreafe 
 tl)z fame \ but Invtlie a fearful anD ejcecrable Curfe 
 en ail fuel) ti0 fijall Dimmifl) o,i take anpe tt)pn2e 
 from it* 
 
 The Church was about 400 Years in building, 
 and very remarkable it is to behold the Uniformity 
 with which it was carried on ; for nobody can dis- 
 cover the leaft Incongruity in the Parts ; fo much 
 is it like the Workmanfhip of one and the fam? 
 Architedi. 
 
 There are fome ^ntient funeral Monuments iathe 
 Cathedral ; but firft, as Matter of the greateft An- 
 tiquity, let me take notice of the Bifhop's Throne 
 in the Choir, which, at the DifTolution of Epifco- 
 pacy in King Charlesl's Time was (as a ufelefs 
 Thing) taken down ; but whether the -Workman 
 imploy'd to do it were v/ell affected to that Order, 
 or elfe had fome private Inftrudions from fom.e- 
 body in Power, who forefaw that it would fome time 
 or other be of Ufe again, certain it is, that a great 
 deal of Care was taken of the Materials ; for it is 
 now replaced, and every Part of it as found and 
 good as when firft made. The Gothick Carvings 
 about the Canopy are at leaft 60 Feet high, and a 
 vuft deal of good Workmanftiio (of that Kind) 
 
 there 
 
Devon. Great Brita i n. 315 
 
 there is about it : it is, I believe, coeval with the 
 See. 
 
 The antique Monuments, as I before mentioned 
 to be feen here, are particularly thofe of Humphry 
 Bohun Earl of Hereford, Hugh Courtenay, Earl of 
 Devon, and his Lady ; the Lord Chichcfxer, Sir 
 Peter Carew, ?>\vThomas Speke, Sir Richard Simpleton 
 Dowrich of Dowrich ; the Bilhops Lepfricus, Staf- 
 ford, Branfcombe, Oldham, Bradbridge, Lacy, Gary 
 and others, efpecially that of Bifhop Stapleton, the 
 pious Founder of Exeter-college in Oxford ; whicli 
 Society, in grateful Remembrance of their Bene- 
 feaor, have lately repaired and beautified his Monu- 
 ment, which in regard to fome of the Carvings about 
 It, excels any thing I ever faw of fo old a Date in 
 the Gothick way. 
 
 The Altar-piece, done loo Years ao-o, is a Re- 
 prefentation of the Infide of the Church inPerfpeaive 
 an exquifitely fine Piece of Painting, and (excepting 
 only a little Injury it received from the Swords of the 
 Saints Militant in the great Rebellion) exceedingly 
 well preferved. The fine painted Glafs, of which 
 there is a great deal, underwent the Fury of the fame 
 pious Reformers, who after they had made a forcible 
 Entry, and " taken to themfelves^/;;VHoufeof Godin 
 Poffeffion," under the Umbrage of an Ordinance of 
 Parliament of the 28th of Augufi 1643, J>roke out 
 thebeltof thofe Paintings, and irretrievably ruined 
 all the Scripture Hiftory therein reprefented • neither 
 was their Rage confined to thofe brittle Materials ; 
 for the carved Figures of the Patriarchs, Prophets, 
 Kmgs, effr. of which there were a great many, be- 
 came Objeas of their furious Zeal and Ignorance ; 
 tor there the maimedBodies are now to be feen, fome 
 without the Head ; others have loft one or both 
 Legs or Arms, ^c, all of them fome way or other 
 niangled. And liaving by this means taken away 
 what they feared would draw them into Idolatry, th/7 
 P 2 divided 
 
j 
 
 ^ T O U R thro 
 
 Devon. 
 
 (jivided this Cathedral by a Partlticn-wall betVv'ixt the 
 Choir and the main Body of it, one of which Di- 
 vilions was made ufe of by an Independent, and the 
 other by a Prefbyterian Congregation. 
 
 And now, that I am takipg notice of the Deco- 
 rations of this magnificent Piece of Antiquity, let me 
 jufi mention, that in one of its To\vers is ai'erylarge 
 ^ell of about Sixty hundred Weight ; and, in the 
 other, a nne Ring of Ten large ones. An Organ of 
 very good VVorkmanfhip, and fupported byaTetra- 
 ftyle of very beautiful Gothkk Columns, ftands where 
 the before-mentioned Partition- wall did. The largeft 
 Pipes in this Inftrument are of a great Length, and 
 15 Inches in Diameter, which is faid to be Two 
 Inches more than thofe at LVw, which is fo famed for 
 its Largenefs. 
 
 The well-finiflied Alcove of modern Work, for 
 the Biftiop, and the Pulpit, and Pevv'S of the like, in 
 the Nave or Body of the Church, together with the 
 neat Marble Font, and the Tvyo Suits of Hangings 
 for the Choir, one of Tapeftry, and the other of 
 Velvet, and the fine Suit of gilt Plate for the Com- 
 munion Service, is all that I fhall further add about 
 the grave and well-adapted Ornaments and Furniture 
 of this Tem.ple, or Houfc of God. 
 
 To complete this Defcription with a Circumflance 
 which I think ought by no means to be pafled over : 
 The Solemnity, becency, and affc(rcing Harmony, 
 Vv'ith which the Service, and Mufick vocal and i^llru- 
 niental, is generally performed, by the Choral- vicars, 
 Organift, and Choriilers; and (which is well worthy 
 of Imitation *) the numerous Congregati'pn, which, 
 
 * 'Tis no uncommnn Th'ng to fee 500 People here in a Mri ni/i?;, 
 which is at leaft five times as many as ufiully attend at St. PauPf., or 
 jtnv fther Six o'clock Chapel I was ever at : And 'tis commendsble, that 
 the Reoda- doth jn..t hers curtail the Morning Seivice, by leavip'g but 
 any P-.ut thereof, as in other Places they do. I^t-re are Two Morning 
 
 L^-c^.urts preached weekly 5 I'ix, Tucjd, 
 
 Winter 
 
Devom GREAt Britain. it'/ 
 
 Winter and Summer, attend the daily Prayers at Six 
 in the Morning ; and their grave and pious Behaviouf 
 there ; I fay, all this together, render this Cathedral 
 a Glory to the Diocefe, the Envy of other Choirs, 
 and the Admiration of Strangers. 
 
 Other antique Buildings of a publiclc Nature -are 
 the Chapter-houfe and Cloifters, the Bifhop's Pahce, 
 the Houfes belonging to the Dean, the Chancellor^ 
 Treafurer, and other Dignitaries of the Church ; the 
 Guildhall, the Walls, and Gates of the City, with 
 thofe of the Caftle, and the Clofe ; the Hofpital of 
 St. John the Baptij?, 20 Parilh Churches within the 
 City and Liberties thereof, the Bridge over the River 
 Exe., a large and very handfome Conduit fof W ater, 
 in the Cemre of the Four principal Streets 3 to whicii 
 maybe added, fome Chapels and Alms-houfes yet 
 handing, and the Ruins of divers others j which are 
 Monuments of the Piety of their Founders, and the 
 Impiety of thofe who neglc6l them. 
 
 Modern Buildings of a publick Nature this City 
 liath not many to boaft of ! St. Paul's., (one of the 
 Twenty Churches before-mentioned) the Chancellor's 
 Houfe, a very handfome and well contrived Work- 
 houle for the Poor, Three or Four Meeting- houfes, 
 a Qiiay for landing Goods, and a Cuftom-houfe, in- 
 clude ail that have been ereded within 40 Years 
 pail. 
 
 The Civil Government of this City is by a Mayor, 
 Aldermen, and Common- council ; a Recordef , Sheriff, 
 Four Stewards, a Chamberlain, and Town-clerk, 
 who are attended by a Sword-bearer, who wears 
 the Cap, and carries the Sword given by King 
 Hemy VII. before them to Church, and on all pub- 
 lick Proceffions ; Four Serjeants at Mace, and as 
 many StafF-bearers ; the former in Gowns, and the 
 latter in Liveries, with Badges ; and, which adds not 
 a little to their Splendor, they keep a Band of Four 
 Muficians in conftant Pay. 
 
 P 3 There 
 
3^8 ^TOUR/W Devon, 
 
 Tliere are, moreover, Twelve Companies of in- 
 corporated Trades, who, on publick Occafions, and 
 on Gaudy-days, walk in the Mayor's Train, drefl'ed 
 in Gowns, each Company having a Beadle, in a 
 laced Cloak, bearing the Enfigns of their 'feveral 
 i'rofelnons, to ufher them. 
 
 For fupplying the Inhabitants with Water, there 
 IS brought-in a pretty large Qiiantity by fubterraneous 
 Fipes, from fome Springs in the Parifli of St. SldwelL 
 without Ea/i~gate, Part of which is repofited for com- 
 mon Ufe m the Conduit before-mentioned, and an- 
 other Partis conveyed to the Houfesofthe Bifhop,Dean, 
 Canons, ^c. within the Clofe, and to a common 
 Pump, juft at the Weft Entrance of the Cathedral. 
 But all this would be far fhort of a fufficient Supply, 
 and therefore an exceeding good Engine is fixed in the 
 River, the great Wheel of w!iich working by the 
 fame Water, forces the River Water thro' Elm-trees 
 bored for that Purpofe, into a large Relervoir, fixed 
 :.ibout 20 Feet above Ground, in the highefi Part of 
 the City adjoining to th& - Guildhall from whence, 
 ti<ro' other Pipes, it is difperfed to all Parts of the 
 City in great Plenty. The Expence of which, to 
 each Houfe-keeper that will have it, "is from 15 to 
 30 s. a Year, according to the Quantity their Oc- 
 cafions require. 
 
 The River Exe was, heretofore, in its main 
 Stream navigable to the Walls of the City; but, on 
 a Difference between the Mayor, and the then Earl 
 of Devon^ on a very trifling Occafion ; viz. Which 
 of their Purveyors fhould be firft ferved with a Pot of 
 Fifh in the Market, that Earl revenged himfdf by 
 choaking the Mouth of the River, and by making 
 Weirs with Timber, Sand, thereby intirely 
 
 rummg the Navigation thereof farther up than Top- 
 fiam. And fo great was the Power and Obftinacy 
 of the Earl at that time, that tho' the Citi:&ens ob- 
 tained 
 
Devon. Great Britain. 319 
 
 tained a Decree in Equity for their Relief, it was 
 never executed. 
 
 To remove this Inconvenience, the Inhabitants, 
 about 40 Years fince, by Aid of an A£l of Parha- 
 ment, at a great Expence perfeaed a Work^ which 
 had been begun above lOO Years before ; they cut a 
 new Chanel for the Water, crofs which they placed 
 Sluices or Flood-gates : thro' the lov/ermoft of 
 thofe Gates, they let in the flowing Tide, the Ebb 
 of which immediately ftiuts the Gate, and that keeps 
 up a Body of Water for about Two Miles, fufficient 
 to carry up the Veflels fo far in their Way ; at which 
 Place another of thofe Gates fhuts, after the Veflcl 
 is paft it, by Capfterns there fixed for. that Piirpofe. 
 It muft be confidered, that the Floorof the Dyke is 
 thus far on a Level, and confequeritly the Water of 
 an equal Depth, without, the Inconvenience of any 
 Current, the lower Sluice being fhut as before. 
 
 The whole Declivity from the Quay at Exeter^ to 
 the lowermoft Flood-gate at Topjham^ which gives 
 the River its Current, is about Eight or Ten Feet, 
 all which is funk at once here, above this fecond 
 Sluice ; and therefore, in order to bring up Ships 
 over this Fail, it v/as necefiary, that a third Flood- 
 gate ftiould be' added ; which is accordingly done, at 
 about 200 Feet from the former. And now, the 
 Ship being between thefe two Flood-gates, (the 
 lower being kept ftiut) the uppermoll of the two is 
 opened, and by this means the Water between them 
 raifed to a Level with that of the Remainder of the 
 Dyke above ; and the Ship, by this Contrivance, 
 Boats freely over the rifing Ground ; and thence, on 
 the frefh Water, (for the Tide is of no farther Ufe) 
 for about Two Miles more, which brings her to 
 the Head of the Works, where there is another 
 Flood-gate ; and this ponds the whole River, fo as 
 to throw the wafte Water, over a ftrong Stone Weir, 
 into its natural Chanel. The Water fo kept back 
 
 P 4 by 
 
920 ^ T O U R thro' Devon, 
 
 by this • Upper-fluice, and the Weir, makes a ftag- 
 nant Pool above ; and here the Veffels lie at their 
 Moorings, and unload at a Quay adioinina; to the 
 City Walls. 
 
 Semper fidelis, is the Motto to the City Arms ; 
 and how juft a Title they have thereto, will appear 
 from their Behaviour, when they have been attacked 
 by the Enemies of their lawful Sovereign, of which 
 take the following ftiort Sketch : 
 
 1. When the Town was quitted by the Romans^ 
 the Citizens defended it againft the Saxcns for their 
 then lawful Mafters, the Britons ; and held it out 
 for 3C0 Years, after the Eaftern Parts of the Ifland 
 iiad fi-ibmittq.d. 
 
 2. When they had been compelled to admit the 
 Saxons into a fort of Co-ordinate Power with them, 
 they courageoufly withftood the Danes, and tho' at 
 Life overcome by them, they took the firfl: Oppor- 
 tunity, and joined with King Alfred, who with 
 their Affiftance routed the Danes. 
 
 3. After this, as long as they were able, they up- 
 held a Share of Government with the Saxons^ un- 
 til King Atheljlane wholly fubdued them, and (as 
 before -mentioned) fortified the Town with a Wall 
 and Gates. This generous Prince was fo well pleafed 
 •with their Bravery, that he granted them many 
 Privileges and Immunities. 
 
 4. In the Year 875, the Citizens again defended 
 themfelvcs ftoutly againft the Danes, who came upon 
 them by Sea, but landed, and formed a Camp on 
 the North-fide thereof, in a Place called Danes- 
 cajlle to this Day, where their Trenches are yet to 
 be feen. 
 
 5. The Town held out for a Month, againft 
 Swain King of Denmark, and was at laft taken by 
 Treachery. 
 
 6. When 
 
Devon. Great Bri tain. 521 
 
 6. When Willia7n the Conqiiertr came againft it, 
 the Citizens defended themfelves until a Part of 
 the City Wall fell down. 
 
 7. The loyal Townfmen took Part with Maud 
 (their undoubted Sovereign) againft King Stephen^ 
 and were at laft reduced by Famine. 
 
 8. In 1469, the Earl of Devan came before it in 
 behalf of the then rightful Claimant King Edw. IV. 
 and the Citizens delivered it up, fervding away the 
 Lords and others of the Lancajirian Party to 
 Calais. 
 
 9. They fhew'd their Loyalty to K.\ng HenryVil, 
 by defending the Town againft Perktn IFarbeck, the 
 Pretender of that Time. In Teftimony whereof, 
 that King gave them the Sword and Cap ; which 
 Regalia are no fmall Part of their Pomp, to this 
 Day. 
 
 10. The rebellious Commons of Devon and 
 Cornwall met with a very ftout Refiftance here, and 
 tho' grievoufly pinched with Famine, the Town 
 held it out until the 6th of Auguji ; when they were 
 relieved by the Lord Rujfel. In Memory of which 
 that is ftill a Gaudy-day, and a Sermon is preacheti 
 yearly on the Occafion, by the Mayor's Chaplain. 
 
 11. In the grand Rebellion it was twice befieged, 
 and held out for the Royal Caufe until the King's 
 Affairs grew every-where'defperate. And as foon as 
 General Monk appeared in Oppofition to the illegal 
 Powers, the Citizens alTembled themfelves, and de- 
 clared for a free Parliament. 
 
 12. When the Prince of Orange landed at Torhajy 
 and fent a Detachment to take Pofieffion of this 
 City, the Inhabitants received them but coldly j, 
 and tho* they knew themfelves incapable of making 
 any Refiftance, and were as fenfible as otiier Parts of 
 the Kingdom, of the Danger they were in from_ 
 
 ■ arbitrary Power \ yet were they very tender of 
 
 P 5 joiiv- 
 
322 T O U R thro' Devon; 
 
 .fining in any Affair that might be conftrued a 
 Kebelhon to their lawful Prince. 
 
 To the Account of Religious Houfes, and Lands 
 formerly appropriated thereto, let me add here, the 
 Priory of P./^/,,, and that of C.zt;/.^, each of them 
 but one Mile from ^-.r^/^r J at a greater Diftance, (but 
 mult be mentioned here, or not at all) Canons-lelgh. 
 Lanons-Teing.Indio-, and larger than either of thefe, 
 the Abbey of Buckfajlkigh, Part of whofe Ruins are 
 yet to be feen, and not one Inftance is there amongft 
 them all, that contradidls my former Obfervations in 
 relation to the Goodnefs of the Soil. 
 
 Near the Mouth of the River Exe^ on the Weft 
 Banks thereof, is Povoderham-caJlU^ now, and for 
 many Ages paft, the Seat of a Family of Courtenays^ 
 i^efcendants from the Earl of Devon of that Name. 
 Fhis Seat, built in the manner of a Caftle, is a very 
 prand Piece of Antiquity ; and was the Work of 
 ijabcl, the Daughter of Bald%vin de Rhers, and 
 VV -dow of WiUiajn de Fortibu'j, in the Reign of 
 King Henry III. 
 
 Halldown is a pretty large, dry, heathy Common 
 of about Seven Miles in Length, and about Three 
 in Breadth, which, tho' feparated by fome inclofed 
 ( jroLinds of a pretty good Nature, feems to be the 
 i^rie Vein of Land, of which the Foreft of Dart- 
 mere and the downy Part of Jjhburton, Ilfington, 
 Bridjord, l^c. confift. ' y <S > 
 
 On the North, and quite home to the Brink of 
 this Down, is that rich Track of Land which I have 
 a ready defcribed, as Part of the moft fertile Soil in 
 this County. 
 
 Tho' this Down is in itfelf a very flinty barren 
 boil ; yet IS its Situation fo delightful, the open 
 Frofpea, both by Sea and Land, fo engaging, and 
 the whole Circuit thereof fo adapted to rural Re- 
 creations, that the like Number of Gentlemens 
 i)eat3 as he rgund th« Skirts tijireof within fo little 
 
 Compafs 
 
Devon. Great Britain. 3^3 
 
 Campafs of Ground, are not to be met with at any 
 Place that I know of, faveonly about London ; which 
 is not only a Confirmation of what I have obferved, 
 but a very great Addition to the Dehght arifmg from 
 the large Extent of the View. c xi. 
 
 And here it cannot be foreign to my Subject to 
 infert the Names of thofe genteel Habitations, and 
 that of their feveral worthy Owners and Poflellors 
 
 1. Ugbrook, the Lord CbYord, Baron of C hud- 
 high ; a Family of great Honour and Worth, tho 
 of the Perfuafion. 
 
 2. Dawlijh, the Country Seat of the Right Reve- 
 rend Dr. Wejion, prefent Lord Bifhop of Exon. 
 
 3. Powderham-caftle, the Honourable Sir Wilham 
 Courtnay^ Bart. 
 
 4. Hallden^ Thomas Chudleigh. 
 
 5. Lyndrldge, the Reverend Dr. JoZ^w 
 
 6. MowUJh, J ^^^.^^^ Oxenham, Efq; 
 
 7. JSewhouJe^ 3 t rr e 
 
 8. Peamore, thr two Daughters and Heirefics ot 
 the late Stephen North leigh, Efq; 
 
 9. Canons-Teingy Hellyar, Efq; 
 
 [O. Oxton, William Martyn^ Eq; 
 II. Trehill, Waltham Savery, Efq; 
 [2. Kenbiiry^ Samuel Cooke, Efq; 
 13. Kenn, John Short, Efq; 
 
 [4. Holloway, Geare, Eftj; 
 
 [5. JVhiteivay, Gilbert Yard, Efq; 
 [6. Doddefcombleigh, Richard Duck, Efq; 
 17. Maurhead, Thomas Balle, Efq; 
 t8. Wood, Thomas Comyns, Efq; 
 19. Place, formerly a Houfe of the Bifiiops of 
 
 Exon, late Robert Woolcomhe, Efq; 
 
 10. Indio, Caleb Juglett, Efq; 
 
 2T. Park-place, John Langdon, Efq; 
 
 22. Bellemarjh, 1 j^^^^ Shepherd, Efq; 
 
 23. Lowell, } 
 
 24. Burrcugh, - Davenport, E^q; . 
 
 P 6 25. ■D<'«^-' 
 
5 24 u4 r OVR thro' Devon. 
 
 25. Boivhay, formerly the Seat of - Petre^ 
 Anceftor of the prefent Lord Petre, 
 
 Exeter is particularly famous for two Things, 
 ■which we feldom find united in the fame Town; 
 viz. That it is full of Gentry, and yet full of Trade 
 and Manufadlures. sr. 
 
 The Serge-market held here every W eek, is very 
 well worth a Stranger's feeing, and, next to the 
 Brigg Market at Leeds in Torkjhire., is the greateft in 
 England. The People afTured me, that at this 
 Market is generally fold from 60 to 70 to 80, and 
 ibmetimes a Hundred thoufand Pounds Value in 
 Serges in a Week. 
 
 The £'av, or Ejk^ is a very confiderable River, 
 and the principal in the whole County, and by the 
 Contrivance we have mentioned. Ships of 150 Tons 
 now come up to the City. 
 
 Exeter drives a very great Correfpondence with 
 'Holland^ as alfo direilly to Portugal., Spain and 
 Italy ; fhipping off vaft Quantities of their Woollen 
 Manufa6lures, efpecially to Holland, the Dutch 
 giving very large Commiffions here for the buying of 
 Serges, Perpetuanas, and fuch Goods ; which are 
 made not only in and about Exeter, but at Crediton, 
 Honiton, CulUton, St . Mary Ottery, Nevjton-bujhell^ 
 JJhburton, and efpecially at Tiverton, Cullumpton, 
 Bampton, and all the North-eaft Part of the 
 County ; wliich Part is, as it may be faid, fully 
 imploy'd, the People made rich, and the Poor well- 
 maintained by it. Some are of Opinion, however,, 
 that Exeter has of late Years vifibly diminifhed in its 
 Trade, fome Part of ^hich has, it is faid, removed 
 itfelf to other Qiiarters. 
 
 On the North-fide of the Caftle, (and which was 
 formerly its Cbunterfcarp) is a very beautiful Terrace- 
 walk, bounded by a double Row of fine Elms, and 
 extended round one Quarter of the City ; viz. from 
 die Eaft-gate to the North-gate, This, for the 
 
 Finenefc. 
 
Devon. Great Britain. 32^ 
 
 Finenefs of the Air, Length of the Walk, and the 
 Landfchape in View, is not perhaps inferior to any 
 thing of the kind in England. 
 
 This County, and this Part of it in particular, has 
 been famous for the Birth of feveral Perfons, eminent 
 as well for Learning and Arts, as for War : Parti- 
 cularly, I. Sir /!^77//^7W P^/r<?, who was Secretary of 
 State, and Privy- Counfellor to King Henry Ylll. 
 Edward VI. Qiieen Mary^ and Queen Elizabeth ; 
 and Seven times fent Embaffador into foreign 
 Countries. 
 
 2. Sir Thomas Bodley^ famous, and of grateful 
 Memory to all learned Men, and Lovers of Letters, 
 for his collefting and eftablifhing the beft Library in 
 Britain^ which is now at Oxford, and is called after 
 his Name the Bodleian Library. 
 
 3. Sir Francis Drake^ born at Plymouth. 
 
 4. Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 
 5. The learned Mr. Richard Hooker, Author of 
 the Ecclef.ajiical Polity, &c. 
 
 6. Dr. Arthur Duck, a Civilian, well known by 
 his Works among the learned Advocates of Dollars 
 Commons. 
 
 7. Dr. John Moreman of Southold, famous for 
 being the firft Clergyman in England, who ven- 
 tured to teach his, Parifhioners th^ Lord'' s Prayer, 
 Creed, and Ten Commandments in the EngUJhT ongxxc i 
 and reading them publickly in the Parifh Church 
 of Mayenhennet, in this County, of which he was 
 Vicar. 
 
 8. T>x.John de Brampton, a Man of great Learn- 
 ing, who flourifhed in the Reign of Henry VL was 
 famous for being the firft that read Arijlotle publickly 
 in the Univerfity of Cambridge, and for writing, 
 feveral learned Books, which are now loft. 
 
 9. Peter Blundel, a Clothier, who built the Free- 
 School at Tivertony and endowed it very hand- 
 ioHiely, 
 
 10. Sir 
 
326 v^TOUR thro' Devon, 
 
 10. ^xxJohn Glanvill, a noted Lawyer, and one 
 of the Judges of the Common-Pleas. 
 
 1 1 . Serjeant Glanvill^ his Son, as great a Lawyer; 
 as his Father. 
 
 12. Sir John Maynard, an eminent Lawyer of 
 later Years ; one of the Commiffioners of the Great 
 Seal under King TVilliam III. All thefe Three were 
 born at Taviftock. 
 
 13. Sir Peter Ktng^ Recorder of London^ Lord 
 Chief Juftice of the Common- Pleas, feveral Years 
 Lord High- Chancellor of England, and created a 
 Peer of this Realm. 
 
 14. General Monk, the great Inftrument in the 
 Reftoration of our Civil and Ecclefiaftical Govern- 
 ment, Laws and Liberty. 
 
 15. The great Duke of Marlborough, Captain- 
 General of the Englijh Forces in ^««(f'sWars. 
 
 I fhall take the North Part of this County in my 
 Return from Cornwall ; fo I muft now lean to the 
 South-coaft, for in going on indeed we go South- 
 weft. 
 
 About 22 Miles iromExeter, and thro* NewtonhuJJiel, 
 a large, but meanly built Market- town,we go into the 
 antient Town of Totnefs, on the River Dart. It was 
 formerly of great Note, and ftili is a pretty good 
 Town, and has fome Trade, but has more Gentlemen 
 in it than Tradefmen of Note: they have a very fine 
 Stone Bridge here over the River, which being within 
 7 or 8 Miles of the Sea, is very large, and the Tide 
 Hows 10 or 12 Feet at the Bridge. Here we had the 
 Diverfionof feeing them catch Fifti, with theAffift- 
 ance of a Dog ; in this manner : On the South Side 
 of the River, and on a Slip, or narrow Cut or 
 Chanel made on purpofe, ftands a Corn- mill ; the 
 Mill-tail, or Floor for the Water below theWheels, 
 is wharfed up on either Side with Stone, above High- 
 water Mark, and for above 20 or 30 Feet in Length 
 below it, on that Part of the River toward the Sea. 
 
 At 
 
Devon. Great Britain? 327 
 
 A t the End of this Wharfing is a Grating of Wood, 
 the Crofs Bars of which ftand bearing inward, fliarp 
 at the End, and pointing towards one another, as 
 the Wires of a Moufe-trap. 
 
 When the Tide flows up, the Fifli can with Eafe 
 go in between the Points of thefe Crofs-bars, but 
 the Mill being fhut down, they can go no farther 
 upwards ; and when the Water ebbs again, are left 
 behind, not being able to pafs the Points of the 
 Grating, which like a Moufe-trap keeps them in ; 
 fo that they are left at the Bottom with about a Foot, 
 or a Foot and half Water. We were carry 'd hither 
 at Low- water, where we faw about 50 or 60 fmall 
 Salmon, from 17 to 20 Inches long, which the Coun- 
 try-people call Salmon Peal ; and to catch thefe 
 they throw in a Net on a Hoop at the End of a Pole' 
 the Pole going crofs the Hoop, which, in fome Places^ 
 they call a Shove Net. Tlw Net being fix'd at one 
 End of the Place, they put in a Dog, who is taught 
 his Trade before-hand, at the other End, and he drives 
 all the Fifh into the Net ; fo that only holding the 
 Net ftill in its Place, the Man took up Two or 
 Three-and-thirty Salmon Peal at the firft time. 
 
 Of thefe we had Six for our Dinner, for whi«h 
 they afk'd a Shilling only; and for fuch fiz'd Fifh, 
 and not fo frefli, I have feen bs. 6d. each given at 
 a London Fifli- market, whither they are fometimes 
 brought from Chkhepr by Land- Carriage. They 
 have alfo delicate Trouts here. 
 
 This exceffive Plenty of fo good Fifh, (other 
 Provifions being cheap in Proportion) makes the 
 Town of Totnefs a very good Place to live in ; efpe- 
 cially for fuch as have large Families, and but fmall 
 Eftates ; and many fuch are faid to come into thofe 
 Parts on purpofe for faving Money. 
 
 This Town made itfelf remarkable for the Ad- 
 drefs of the Inhabitants to King George I. on the 
 ynion of the Emperor and King of Spain, by the 
 
 Treaty. 
 
:/^TOUR thro De7on„ 
 
 Treaty of Vienna', they profefs'd their Zeal and 
 Loyalty to his Perfon ; and when the good Town 
 of Totnefs had but a very infignificant Share of Pro- 
 perty, aflur'd the King of their Readinefs to grant 
 not only 41. a Pound Land-tax, but to give into 
 the Bargain the other ibs. if his Majefty's Service 
 requir'd it ; together with feveral other extravagant 
 Declarations of Zeal and Oftentation, which made 
 them the Subje£l of Ridicule all over the Kingdom, 
 for being fo lavifti in their Profeffions, when, as a 
 Corporation, they had little or nothing to give. 
 
 About Ten Miles North of Totnefs^ lies JJhbur- 
 toHy a good Market-town, and Thoroughfare from 
 Exeter to Plymouth. This is one of the Four Stan- 
 nary Towns for the County of Devon^ and lies but 
 a little Way in from the Foreft of Dartmore. The 
 principal Trade of this Town, and indeed all the 
 Towns and Villages in the whole County,, is in the 
 Woollen Manufadure. 
 
 The Three other Stannary Towns are Tavijiock, 
 Plympton, and Chagford^ the laft of which is a 
 very poor inconfiderable Place, and neither that nor 
 Plympton are capable of entertaining the Suitors, if 
 the Lord Warden {hould be ever Inclined to ad- 
 journ the Court thither. 
 
 And now having mentioned this Court of Stan- 
 mry, it may not be improper to give a further D^- 
 fcription thereof. 
 
 By divers Charters granted to the Tinners by 
 King EdvjardY. l^c. the Court is to be held at 
 Crocker en Torr^ a noted Hill and Rock in the mid- 
 dle of the Foreft, far diftant from any Floufe : the 
 Lord Warden of the Stannaries is the Judge of 
 this Court, on whofe Summons the Jurors appear,, 
 who are generally Gentlemen within the Jurif- 
 diftion. I had my Information from a Gentleman, 
 who, if I miftake not, told me he had ferved as a 
 juror i and that when the Earl of Bath was Lord 
 
 Wardenj 
 
Devon. Gre at Br itain. 329 
 
 Warden, and held a Court there, he was attended 
 by 300 Gentlemen well mounted. 
 
 At this defolate Place (where no Rcfrefliment is 
 to be had, but what the Company bring with them, 
 no Shelter from the Weather, nor any thing to fit 
 upon, but a Moor-ftone Bench) the Court is called : 
 but then the next Ad: of the Steward is to adjourn 
 to one of the Stannary Towns, {u^mzWy Tavi/iock)^ 
 and the Company immediately makes the beft ot 
 their Way thither. 
 
 At this Court, in former Times, when the Tin 
 Mines in this County were in a flourifhing State, 
 a great deal of Bufinefs was difpatched ; the Price of 
 the' Tin was fix'd. Differences in relation to the 
 Works adjufted, and A£ls made for Regulation of 
 every thing relating thereto. Several Prefentments of 
 the Jurors are printed, and this Meeting is vulgarly 
 called. The Farliament for the Stannaries \ the Place 
 of Meeting in the Foreft, The Parliament Houfe ; 
 and the Prefentment of the Jurors, JSts of Parlia- 
 ment. 
 
 The Abbey of Taviftock, the Priory at Plympton^ 
 and the Monaftery at Buckland Monachorum^ were 
 very large Endowments ; and their Scite v.'-ell efta- 
 blifties the Obfervation I have feveral times before 
 made, in relation to the Fertility of the Soil where 
 thofe Orders of Men generally feated thcmfelves. 
 An Obfervation, I have made rather to confirm that 
 of other Writers, than as Matter of W onder or 
 Reflexion ; for would it ndt be ftrange, if the Ec- 
 clefiafticks fhould not be as capable of chufmg for 
 themfelves as other People ? or that they fhould 
 chufe the worft, if they might have the beft \ 
 
 At Taviftock I faw fome ftately Remains of that 
 grand Building ; and among other things, part of 
 the Butments of the Arch of a Bridge over the Tavy^ 
 which the Inhabitants call Guile-bridge^ and relate 
 the following Story ; viz. That one Childe, Owner 
 
 of 
 
530 T O U R thro Devon. 
 
 of the Manor of Plymftock, made his Will, and 
 gave the faid Lands to the Church where his Body 
 fhould be buried ; and that afterwards, hunting in 
 the Foreft, he loft his Company and his Way, and 
 tho', as his laft Shift, he kill*d his Horfe, and got 
 into the warm Belly of him, he at length died 
 there with the Extremity of Cold. The Body, after 
 fome Search, was found by the TaviftocklS/len, (who 
 had, by fome means, come to the Knowledge of 
 liis Will) and by them carried away towards their 
 Abbey. The Ply7nftock Men, hearing thereof, lay 
 in Ambufh for them at a Bridge, where they appre- 
 hended they muft pafs : but in this they were de- 
 ceived ; for the Priefts built a flight Bridge bn Pur- 
 pofe, over which they carried the Corps ; by which 
 Statagem they obtain'd the faid Land ; and hence, 
 fays the Tradition, this is called Guile-bridge. 
 
 From Totnefs we went ftill South about Seven 
 Miles (all in View of the River) to Dartmo-ath, a 
 Town of Note, feated at the Mouth of the Rivef 
 Dart, where it empties itfelf into the Sea, at a very 
 narrow, but fafe Entrance. The Openin* into 
 Dartmouth Harbour is not broad, but the Chanel 
 deep enough for the biggeft Ship in the Royal Navy : 
 The Sides of the Entrance are high mounded W'ith 
 Rocks ; without which, juft at the firft Narrowing 
 of the PafTage, ftands a good ftrong Fort beyond -a 
 Platform of Guns, which commands the Port. 
 
 The narrow Entrance is not much above half a 
 Mile, and then it opens and makes a Bafin, or Har- 
 bour, able to receive 500 Sail of Ships, where they 
 may ride with the greateft Safety, and the Entrance 
 may be chain'd up on Occafion. I went out in a 
 Boat to view this Entrance, and the Caftle or Fort 
 that commands it ; and coming back with the Tide 
 of Flood, I obferv'd fome fmall Fiih to (kip and play 
 upon the Surface of the Water ; upon which I alk'd. 
 What Fifh they were? Immediately one of the 
 
 Rower-? 
 
Devon. Great Britain. 5^1 
 
 Rowers or Seamen ftarted up in the Boat, and tlifov/- 
 ing his Arms abroad, as if he had been mad, cries 
 out as loud as he could bawl, A Scool! a Scool f 
 The Word was taken on the Shore as haftily as it 
 would have been on Land, if he had cry'd Fire ; and 
 by that Time we reach'd the Quays, the Town was 
 all in a kind of an Uproar. 
 
 The Matter was, that a great Shoal^ or, as they 
 call it, a Scool of Pilchards, came fwimming with the 
 Tide, directly out of the Sea into the Harbour. The 
 Boat-owner lamented his being unprepared for them ; 
 for he faid, that if he could but have had a Day or 
 two's Warning, he might have taken 200 Tun of 
 them ; in ftiort, nobody was ready for them, ex- 
 cept a fmall Fifhing-boat or Two ; one of which 
 went into the Middle of the Harbour, and at Two 
 or Three Hawls took about 40,000. 
 
 It was obferv'd, that beyond the Mouth of the Har- 
 bour was a whole Army of Porpoifes,' which, it 
 feems, purfu'd thefe Pilchards, and, 'tis probable, 
 drove them into the Harbour. The Scool drove up 
 the River a great Way, even as high as Totnefs Bridge, 
 as we heard afterwards ; fo that the Country -people, 
 who had Boats and Nets, caught as many as they 
 knew what to do with. 
 
 Dartmouth is fituated on the Weft-fide of this Ba- 
 fin, or Harbour, in a kind of a Semicircle, on the 
 Afcent of a fteep Hill, which, tho' large and popu- 
 lous, is but meanly built ; yet the Qiiay is large, and 
 tlie Street before it fpacious. Here live fome very 
 flouriftiing Merchants, who trade very profperoufly, 
 and to the moft confiderable trading Ports of Spain, 
 Portugal, Italy, and the Plantations ; but efpecially 
 to Newfoundland, and from thence to Spain and Italy 
 with Fifh ; and they drive a good Trade alfo in their 
 own Fifliery of Pilchards, which is hereabouts car- 
 ried on with the greateft Number of Veflels of any 
 Port in the Weft, except Falmouth. 
 
 Dart- 
 
S33i T 6 U R thro' Ibevort; 
 
 Dartmouth^ like other Towhs in Devonjhire, i' 
 full of DilTenters, who have here a very large Meet- 
 ing-houfc. The French burnt it in Richard I/s Time, 
 and attempted it afterwards, but were bravely re- 
 pulfed, and chiefly by the Women, who fought de~ 
 fperately, and took Monfieur Cajiel;, their General, 
 Three Lords, and Twenty-three Knights Priforiersj 
 and made a great Slaughter among them befides ; but 
 how this glorious A£lion fell to tht Share of the 
 Women, and whether the Men were inactive, ot 
 abfent, is not mentioned. 
 
 A little to the Southward of this ToWft, and to 
 the Eaft of the Port, is Torbay^ a very good Road 
 for Ships, about Twelve Miles in Circuit, tho' 
 fometimes, efpecially with a Southerly or South- eaft 
 Wind, Ships have been obliged to quit the Bay, and 
 put out to Sea, or run into Dartmouth for Shelter. 
 
 In the Bottom of this Bay is a beautiful^ well-built, 
 and finely-fituated Houfe, call'd Torr-Abhey^ for- 
 merly a Religious Houfe ; but now the Inheritance 
 
 of Cary^ Efq. Vefpafian is faid to have 
 
 landed her6, v/hen he came to attack Armragus^ Kii^g 
 of Britain. And here it was that King William III. 
 enter'd with a Fleet of 60QO Tranfports, and 50 Sail 
 of Men of War, under the GonJu6t of Admiral 
 Herbert^ fmce Lord Torrlngton. 
 
 About Three Miles to the Weft of Dartmouth, is 
 a little Fifhing-^town, call'd Brlxham^ remarkable 
 for a Spring of Water, that ebbs and flows very fenfi- 
 bly ; a Defcription of which may not be unacceptable, 
 efpecially as the Account I give of it is the Refult of 
 my own Obfervations ; for 1 bad To much Patience as 
 to fit by it for Fourteen Hours together, and carefully 
 obferve its Periods, and the Quantity of its ebbing 
 and flowing. 
 
 The Situation of this Spring is pretty near the Foot 
 of a large Ridge of Hills, and tlie Quantity of Wa- 
 ter that flows from it is confiderable. It falls into 
 
 a large 
 
Devon. Great Britain, 333 
 
 a large Bafin, v/here it is very eafy to obferve (by- 
 lying in an inclining Plain) the perpendicular Height 
 of its Ebbing and Flowing, as well as the Time be-» 
 tween high and low Water. 
 
 By a careful ObfeiTation of a great Number of 
 Fluxes and Refluxes, I find, that when it proceeds 
 regularly, (as it does fometimes for Eight Hours to- 
 gether) it is Eleven times in an Hour : for thus the 
 10th of July 1733, I obferv'd it higli Water at 
 B^. 31' in the Morning, and continued to obferve it 
 until 3^1. 3' in the Afternoon ; in which Interval of 
 Seven Hours it had ebb'd and flow'd exaftly Seventy- 
 feven times. 
 
 There happens fcmetimes an Intermiflion of thofe 
 Ebbings and Flowings ; for in the Mcrning of the 
 fame Day, I obferv'd that from 6^ 37', to 6^. 58', it 
 had no Motion at all 5 and at another time I found it 
 to intennit for an Hour, or more. 
 
 The Bafm which recei\^es the Water, contains, as 
 I guefs, about Tv/enty P'ect in Area ; and the pcr-i 
 pendicular Height of the Flowing, when I obferv'd it, 
 (which was in the Middle of Summer, and at a dry 
 Seafon) was various, viz. fometimes an Inch and 
 three Quarters, and at other times pot above half an 
 Inch ; but generally about one Inch and one Eighth. 
 
 The Reader will be rather pleafed with this De- 
 fcription, as It may, in fome meafure, confirm 
 that ingenious, and very probable Hypothefis, whicn 
 v/as read by Dr. At-well before the Royal Society, 
 and is publilhM in their TranfaiHons, touching reci- 
 procatijig Springs ; and of this (which is called Lay- 
 ivell) in particular. 
 
 From Dartmouth v/e went to Plyjnpton before- 
 mentioned, as a poor Town, though it v/as formerly 
 of great Account, and th: Glory of the antient Earls 
 of Dcvon^ \''here are Tenures at this Dav, called 
 Cajile-gua- 'U for defending and repairing the Walls 
 of the C ■'■ ' ; which however is now in Ruins. From 
 
 thence 
 
334 ^ T O U R thro" Devon, 
 
 thence the Road lies to Plymouth^ Diftance about Six 
 Miles. 
 
 Plymouth is indeed a Town of Confideration and 
 Importance. The Situation of it is between Two 
 very large Inlets of the Sea, and in the Bottom of a 
 large Sound or Bay, which is incompafs'd on every Side 
 with Hills, and the Shore generally fteep and rocky, 
 tho' the Anchorage is good, and it is pretty fafe Rid'e- 
 ing. In the Entrance to tliis Bay, lies a large and 
 moft dangerous Rock, which at High-water is co- 
 ver'd, but at Low-tide lies bare, where many a good 
 Ship has been loft, when they have thought all tlieir 
 Dangers at an End. 
 
 Upon this Rock, which was called the Eddyjione^ 
 from its Situation, the ingenious yix.WinJlanley^ whom 
 I have mention'd before, p.io'j. undertook to build a 
 Light-houfe for the Diredion of Sailors, and with 
 great Art and Expedition finifli'd it : which Work, 
 confidering its Height, the Magnitude of its Building, 
 and the litde Hold tliere was to faften it to the Rock, 
 flood to Admiration, and bore out many a bitter 
 Storm. 
 
 Mr. Winjlanley often vifited , and frequently 
 ftrengthen'd the Building by new Works j and was 
 fo confident of its Firmnefs and Stability, that he 
 ufually faid, to thofe who doubted its Standing in 
 hard Weather, that he only dgfir'd to be in it, when 
 a Storm ftiould happen. 
 
 But in the dreadful Tempeft of Nov. 27. 1703, 
 when he happen'd to be fo unhappy as to have his 
 Wifh, he would fain have been on Shore, making 
 Signals for Help; but no Boats durft go off" to him ; 
 and in the Morning after the Storm, nothing was to 
 be feen but the bare Rock, the Light-houfe being 
 gone, in which Mr. TVlnftaydey ^ and all that were 
 with him, pcrifh'd ; and a few Days after, a Merchant's 
 Ship, cali'd the IFtnchelfea, Homeward-bound from 
 yirginia, not knowing ti>e Light-houfe was down, 
 
 ran 
 
Devon. G r e a t B ri tai n. 335 
 
 ran foul of the Rock, and was loft with all her Lade- 
 ing, and in< i - if her Men : but there is now another 
 Light-b v ' > :li on the fame Rock by the Corpo- 
 ration : .ity-houfe, in Purfuance of an A61 of 
 Parlian:.:: .; ..aed in the Fifth of Queen y^nne. 
 
 As Plymouth lies in the Bottom of this Sound, in 
 the Centre between the Two Waters, fo there lies 
 againft it, in the fame Pofition, an Ifland which they 
 call St, Nicolas, on which is a Caftle that commands 
 the Entrance into HaTn-Ouze, and indeed that alfo into 
 Catwater in fome Sort. On the Shore, over-againft 
 this Ifland, is the Citadel of Plymouth, a fmall, but 
 regular Fortification, inacceffible by Sea, but not ex- 
 ceeding ftrong by Land except that they fay the 
 Works are of a Stone hard as Marble, and would 
 not foon yield to the Batteries of an Enemy : but that 
 is a Language our modern Engineers laugh at. It is 
 furrounded with a deep Trench, out of which was 
 dug the Stone that built the v/hole Citadel, which is 
 about three Quarters of a Mile in Circumference, 
 and has 300 great Guns on its Walls, which ftand 
 thickeft towards the Sea. Several Guns are alfo planted 
 on part of the old Fort, lying almoft level with the 
 Water, all which gives the greateft Security to the 
 Ships in the Harbour. 
 
 The Town ftands above the Citadel, upon the fame 
 Rock, and lies floping on the Side of it, towards the 
 Eaft, the Inlet of the Sea (which is call'd Catwater, 
 and is a Harbour capable of receiving any Number 
 of Ships, and of any Size) wafhing the Eaftern Shore 
 of the Town, Vv'here they have a kind of natural 
 Mole, or Haven, with a Quay, and all other Con- 
 veniencies for bringing in Veffels for loading and un- 
 loading ; nor is the Trade carried on here inconfi- 
 derable in itfelf. 
 
 The other Inlet of the Sea, as I term it, is on the 
 other Side of the Town, and is call'd Ham-Ouze, 
 being the Mouth of the fliver Tamar, a confiderable 
 
 River, 
 
536 ^ T O U R thro' Devon. 
 
 River, which parts the Two Counties of Devon and 
 Cornwall. Here the War with France making it 
 neceffary, that the Ships of War fhould have a Re- 
 treat nearer Hand than at Portfmouth^ the late King 
 William order'd a wet Dock, with Yards, dry Docks, 
 Launches, and Conveniencies of all kinds for build- 
 ing and repairing of Ships, to be built. Thefe wet 
 and dry Docks are about Two Miles up the Ham- 
 Ouze, and for the Neatnefs and Excellency of the 
 Work, exceed all that were ever built of the Kind, 
 being hewn out of a Mine of Slate, and lin'd with 
 Portland Stone. The dry Dock is built after the 
 Mould of a Firft-rate Man of War, and the wet 
 Dock will contain Five of the fame Bignefs. What 
 follow'd thefe, as it were of Courfe, was the Build- 
 ing of Store-houfes and Ware-houfes for the Rigging, 
 Sails, naval and military Stores, &c. of fuch Ships 
 as may be appointed to be laid up there, with very 
 handfome Houfes for the Commiffioners , Clerks, 
 and Officers of all kinds ufual in the King's Yards, 
 to dwell in. It is, in (hort, now become as com- 
 plete an Arfenal, or Yard, for building and fitting 
 out Men of War, as any the Government are Ma- 
 frers of ; and perhaps much more convenient than 
 feme of them, tho' not fo large ; and this has occa- 
 fion'd a proportional Increafe of Buildings to the 
 Town. 
 
 Here are Two fine Churches, and Two or Three 
 Meeting-houfes for Diffenters, and French Refugees 5 
 as alfo a Free-fchool, and an Hofpital for Blue-coat 
 Boys. 
 
 Oppofite to tl:iis Place, on the other Side Ham- 
 Ouze, is fituated Mount Edgcmnhe^ the Seat of Richard 
 Edgcumhe, Efq; deem'd one of the nobleft Profpecls 
 in England ; overlooking at once the Sea, the Har- 
 bour, Citadel, and Town of Plyrnouth^ and the 
 County adjacent for a great Way. 
 
 Fr Hi 
 
Cornw^ Great Britain. 337 
 
 From Plymouth we pafs the Tamar^ over a Ferrj 
 'to Saltajh, a little poor ftiatter'd Town, the firft 
 we fet Foot on in the County of Cornwall. The 
 Tamar here is very wide, and the Ferry-boats bad, 
 fo that I thought myfelf well ofF, when I got faf« 
 on Shore in Cornwall. 
 
 Mr, Carew publifh'd, in the Reign of King 
 'James I. a very judicious Survey of this County, 
 dedicated to Sir Walter Raleigh. The Reader may- 
 there inform himfelf, in a very particular manner, of 
 its Natural Hiftory, and the Produce, Cuftoms, and 
 Rarities, which it abounds with. Among other Cu- 
 riofities, he may there find complete Lifts of the 
 Knights Fees, Barons, Knights, and Men at Arms, 
 together with the Survey of the Acres taken by So- 
 lomon de Roff^y and his Fellows, Juftices itinerant, 
 at Launcejion, in the Reign of King Edward I. by 
 which Survey it appears, that this County contain'd, 
 at that Time, 5555 Acres ; and the Author tells us, 
 that a Cornijh Acre, or one fourth Part of a Knight's 
 Fee, contained Nine Farthings Land, each of which 
 was , as he thinks, about Thirty of our Statute 
 Acres. If all this be true, then that County con- 
 tained, at that time. One million and Five hundred 
 thoufand Acres, which is more, by one Third, than 
 it is now eftimated to be, and doth, in fome mea- 
 fure, ftrengthen the Conjedlure, that a great Part 
 of the Land on this Coaft is devoured by the Sea, 
 and that the Scilly Rocks were formerly a Part of 
 the Land, tho' now Ten Leagues diftant. 
 
 Among the natural Productions of this County, 
 ought not to be omitted their Slate, the beft in 
 Europe for covering of Houfes ; the Moor-Jione^ 
 which, by a very laborious Poliftiing, (a Matter very 
 lately attempted) .equals in Beauty the Egyptian 
 Granate. I take no Notice of the Gold, Silver, 
 Copper, Tin, Lead j the Marble, Agat, Coral , 
 
 Vol. L Q, and 
 
338 'ATOVRfM Cornw. 
 
 and even Diamonds, which are here found, becaufe 
 thefe have been obferv'd by all who mention the 
 Produaions of this Weftern County ; and for the 
 fame Reafon fliall omit the manner of their working 
 their Mines, and refining the Ore. 
 
 The Inhabitants have been remarkable for their 
 Strength of Body j witnefs, among numberlefs 
 others, John Bray, who carried on his Back Six 
 Bufhels of Meal, of Fifteen Gallons to the Bufhel, 
 and the Miller, a Man of Twenty-four Years of 
 Age, on the Top of it ; alfo John Roman, who 
 carried, at one time, the whole Carcafe of an Ox. 
 
 Saltajb feems to be the Ruins of a larger Place, 
 it is govern'd by a Mayor and Aldermen, has many 
 Privileges, fends Members to Parliament, has the 
 fole Oyfter-Fi&ing in the whole River, which is 
 confiderable. It has alfo Jurifdidion upon the Ri- 
 ver Tamar, down to the Mouth of the Port, fo 
 that they claim Anchoiage of all fmall Ships, that 
 enter the River : their Coroner fits upon all Bodies 
 that are found drown 'd in the River, and the like. 
 Here is a good Market, and it is very much 
 benefited by the Increafe of the Inhabitants of Ply- 
 mouth, as lying near the Dock at theMouth of Ham- 
 Oze ; for thofe People choofe rather to go to Saltajh 
 to Market by Water, than to walk to Plymouth by 
 Land for their Provifions : becaufe, firft, as they go 
 in the Town-boat, the fame Boat brings home what 
 they buy, fo that it is much lefs Trouble ; fecondly, 
 becaufe Provifions are bought much cheaper at Sal- 
 tajh than at Plymouth : and of late, they have fome 
 Ships that ufe the Newfoundland Fifhery. 
 
 There is no other Town up the Tamar, till we 
 come to Launcejion, the County Town, which I 
 fliall take in my Return, except Kellington, a pretty 
 good Market and Portreve Town, where is a good 
 Market-houfe, and a neat Church, which, as well 
 as the other Buildings in the Town, are in good Con- 
 dition i 
 
Cornw. Great Britain. 339 
 
 dition ; fo I turn'd Weft, keeping the South Shore 
 of the County, to the Land's-end. 
 
 From Saltajb I went to Lejkard^ about Seven 
 Miles. This is a confiderable Town, well-built, has 
 People of Faftiion in it, and a very great Market : 
 it is one of the Five Stannary Towns, and was once 
 ftill more eminent, and had a good Caftle, and a 
 large Houfe, where the antient Dukes of Cornwall 
 kept their Court : it alfo enjoy'd feveral confiderable 
 Privileges, efpecially by the Favour of the Black 
 Prince, who, as Prince of Wales, and Duke of 
 Cornwall, refided here : and in Return, they fay, 
 this Town, and the Country round it, raifed a great 
 Body of ftout young Fellows, who entered into his 
 Service, and followed his Fortunes in his Wars. But 
 . thefe Buildings are fo decay'd, that there are now 
 I fcarce any of the Ruins of the Caftle, or of the 
 ' Prince's Court, remaining. Here was alfo antiently 
 a Chapel, much reforted to by Pilgrims in Po~ 
 pifti Times ; and in the Town is a Fountain of very 
 clear Water, to which many miraculous Cures were 
 attributed. 
 
 It ftill boafts of its Guilds or Town-hall, on which 
 j is a Turret with a fine Clock ; a good Free- 
 School, well provided ; a very fine Conduit in the 
 Market-place ; an antient large Church, dedicated 
 to St. Martin j and a large new-built Meeting-houfe 
 for the Diflenters ; which I name, becaufe they 
 alfured me there were but Three more, and thofe 
 inconfiderable, in all the County of Cornwall ; 
 whereas in Devon/hire, which is the next County, 
 there are reckoned about 70, fome of which are 
 exceeding large and fine. 
 
 This Town is alfo remarkable for the Defeat of 
 the Parliament Army by Sir Ralph Hopton, and for 
 a very great Trade in all Manfa6tures of Leather, 
 fuch as Boots, Shoes, Gloves, Purfes, Breeches, t9*f. 
 and fome Spinning of late Years is fet up here, 
 
 2 encourag'i 
 
340 TOUR thro' Cornw. 
 
 encourag'd by the Woollen Manufacturers of 
 Devonjhire. 
 
 Between thefe Two Towns of Saltajh zndLeskard, 
 is the Borough of St. Germans, now a Village,, de- 
 cay M, and without any Market, but the largeftParifli 
 in the whole County ; in tlie Bounds of which are 
 contained 17 Villages, and the Town of Saltq/h 
 among them j for Saltajh Church, it feems, was 
 but a Chapel of Eafe to St. Germans. It has been 
 antiently a Bifhop's See, which was tranflated from 
 Bodmyn hither, and afterwards from St. Ger?rians to 
 Crediton^ then one of the beft Towns in the County, 
 and thence to Exeter. This Town takes its Name 
 from St. Germany Bifhop of Auxerre in Burgundy, 
 who came over from France, to preach againft the 
 Herefy of Pelagius, which then began to fpread in 
 England, and took up his Refidence here. The 
 Ruins of the Epifcopal Palace at Cuttenbeck, a .Milc 
 and half from the Town, which afterwards dwindled 
 into a Farm-houfe, are ftillvifible. A Gentleman of 
 the Name of Elliott was lately a great Benefactor to 
 this Town, having endowed a publick School there, 
 uepaired theSeflions-houfe, and beautify'd the Church ; 
 where he was buried, and has a fine Italian party- 
 coloured Marble Monument ereCled to his Memory 
 by his Widow. There is ftill an Epifcopal Chair in 
 the Church, and feveral other Seats belonging to 
 Canons. The Town ftands on a rifing Ground, arid 
 is built in the Form of an Amphitheatre. 
 
 In the Neighbourhood of thefe Towns are many 
 pleafant Seats of Cormjh Gentry, who are indeed 
 very numerous, and the mofl: fociable, generous, and 
 kind Neighbours to one another that are to be found ; 
 and ufually intermarry among themfelves ; from 
 whence, they fay, the Proverb, That all the Cornifh 
 Gentlemen are Coufins. It is the very fame in Wales, 
 ^here the greateft Compliment that one Gentleman 
 can make to another of the fame County, is to call 
 
Cornw. GRiEAr Britain. 541 
 
 him Coufin. There is a great Conformity of Man- 
 ners, Cuftoms, and Ufages between theJVelJh and 
 Cornijb, who are accounted of the fame Origin, and 
 Defcendants alfo of the antient Bntons ; and there 
 is likewife a great Affinity between the old Cormjh 
 
 and Pf^eljh Language. , , , , ■ , txt 
 
 On the Hills North of Leskard, and in the Way 
 between that Town and Launcejlon, are many Tin 
 Mines, and fome of the richeft Veins of that Metal 
 in the whole County ; which when caft at the Blow- 
 ing-houfes into Blocks, are fent to Leskard to be 
 
 coined. ^ ttt n 
 
 From Leskard, in our Courfe Weft, we are ne- 
 ceflarily carried to the Sea-coaft, becaufe of the 
 River Fowey, which empties itfelf into the Sea, at a 
 very large Mouth ; and hereby, this River rifing in 
 the Middle of the Breadth of the County, and run- 
 ning South, and the River Camel rifing not far from 
 it, and running North, with a like large Chanel, 
 the Land from Bodmyn to the Weftern _ Part of the 
 County, is almoft made an Ifland, and in a manner 
 cut off from the Eaftern ; the Ifthmus, or Neck 
 of Land between, being not above Twelve Miles 
 
 over. _. ^ » . . 
 
 In the Parifli of St. Cleer is a Piece of Antiquity, 
 which they call, The other Half-pne, which are 
 indeed Two Stones fixed in the Ground ; and by 
 Mortaifes in each, they feem to have been heretofore 
 joined together. Both of them were curioufly 
 wrought by Diaper-work-carvings ; but one of them 
 hath an Infcription in very antique Charaaers, a» 
 follows : 
 
 0.3 
 
342 
 
 ^ TOUR thro' Cornw. 
 
 J! o n ? 
 
 5^ oc jj / 1: 
 pj?-o cc n 
 I m ex. 
 
 Which feem to exprefs thus much ; Doniert. Rogavlt 
 pro^ Anima ; implying that Dungarth or Doniert 
 (King of Cornwall^ who was drown'd A, D. 872.) 
 gave this Land for the Good of his Sou]. 
 
 Not far diftant is a Heap of large Stones, under 
 which lies a great Stone,fafhioned like aCheefe, and 
 ^eemsto the Eye, as if it were prefs'd into that Form 
 by the Weight that lies upon it i and hence they call 
 it Wring-cheefe. 
 
 On the South from Leskard we come to Foy^ or 
 Fowey, an antient Borough-town, and formerly- 
 very large and potent \ for the Foyens^ as they were 
 then call'd, were able to fit out large Fleets, not only 
 for Merchants Ships, but even of Men of War ; and 
 with thefe, not only fought with, but feveral times 
 vanquiftied and routed, the Squadron of the Cinque- 
 port Men, who in thofe Days were very powerful. 
 
 Mr. Camden obferves, that theTown Foy quar- 
 ters fome Part of the Arms of every one of thofc 
 Cinque-ports with their own ; intimating, that they 
 had at feveral times triumph'd over them all : and 
 indeed they were once fo powerful, that they fitted 
 out their Fleets againft the French, and took feveral 
 of their Men of War, when they were at Variance 
 whhEngland, and enriching their Town by the Spoil 
 of their Enemies. 
 
 £dzvard 
 
 B 
 
Cornw. Great Britain. 343 
 
 Edward IV. favour'd them much ; and becaufe 
 the French threaten'd to come up their River with 
 a powerful Navy to burn their Town, he caufed 
 Two Forts to be built at the publick Charge, for its 
 Security, the Ruins of which are ftill to be feen : 
 but the fame King Edward was fome time after fo 
 difgufted at the Townfmen, for officioufly Falling 
 upon the French^ after a Truce was proclaimed, that 
 he effectually difarmed them, took away their whole 
 Fleet, Ships, Tackle, Apparel and Furniture ; and 
 fmce that time we do not read of any of their Naval 
 Exploits, nor that they ever attempted to recover 
 their Strength at Sea. However, Foy^ at this time, 
 is a very fair Town ; it lies extended on the Eaft Sid, 
 of the River, for above a Mile, the Buildings fair, 
 and there are a great many fiourifhing Merchants in 
 it, who have a great Share in the Fifhing- trade, efpe- 
 cially for Pilchards. In this Town, is alfo a Coinage 
 for the Tin, of which a great Quantity is dug up ia 
 the Country North and Weft of the Town. The 
 Church at Fowey is antient, and very fine. 
 
 The River Fowey, which is very broad and deep 
 here, was formerly very navigable by Ships of good 
 Burden as high as the Borough-town of Lejiwithiel, 
 an antient, and once a fiourifhing, but now a decay 'd 
 Place, and as to Trade and Navigation quite defti- 
 tute ; which is occafioned by the River being filled 
 up with Sand. 
 
 Lejlwithiel was called, in the Britijh Times, Pen 
 Vchel Coed, i. e. an high Place with Wood. It be- 
 came fince the antient Refidence of the Dukes of 
 Cornwall. The Ruins of a Caftle belonging to them 
 are ftill to be feen, on a rifing Ground, at a little 
 Diftance from the Town. The Church is an hand- 
 fome Edifice ; but the Steeple carries the Marks of 
 the Civil Wars in the Reign of Charles I. when the 
 great Hall and Exchequer of the faid Dukes of 
 Cornwall were alfo utterly:_defaced. Some fay this 
 
 Q„ 4 Town 
 
344 T O U R thro' Cornw. 
 
 Town was formerly the County Town and ftill 
 retains feveral Advantages which fupports its Figure; 
 as, I. That it is one of the Coinage or Stannary 
 Towns. 2. The common Gaol for the whole Stan- 
 nary is here, as are alfo the County Courts for 
 Cornwall, 
 
 There is a mock Cavalcade kept up at this Town 
 which is very remarkable ; the Particulars, as they 
 are related by Mr. Carew^ in his Survey of Cornwall^ 
 take as follows : 
 
 '•^ y^onXittX^ Eajier Sunday^ the Freeholders of 
 ** this Town and- Manor, by themfelves, or their 
 " Deputies, did there aflemble: amongft vi^hom, one, 
 " (as it fell to his Lot by turn) bravely apparell'd, 
 " gallantly mounted, with a Crown on his Head, a 
 *' Sceptre in his Hand, and a Sword borne before 
 " him, and dutifully attended by all the reft, alfo 
 " on Horfeback, rode thro' the principal Street to 
 " the Church : theCurate in his \>^'i}^Befeen folemnly 
 " received him at the Church-yard Stile, and con- 
 " duded him to hear Divine Sen'ice. After which, 
 *' he repaired with the fame Pomp to a Houfe 
 " provided for that Purpofe, made a Feaft to his 
 *« Attendants, kept the Table's-end himfelf, and was 
 " ferved with kneeling Affay, and all other Rights 
 ** due to the Eftate of a Prince : with which Din- 
 " ner the Ceremony ended, and every Man re- 
 *< turned Home again. The Pedigree of this Ufage 
 " is deriv'd from fo many Defcents of Ages, that 
 ** the Caufe and Author out-reach Remembrance. 
 ** Howbeit, thefe Circumftances afford a Conjcdure, 
 ** that it fhould betoken Royalties appertaining to 
 " the Honour of Cornwall.''* 
 
 Behind i^^jy, and nearer totheCoaft, at the Mouth 
 of a fmall River, which fome call Loe^ tho' with- 
 out any Authority, ftand Two Borough-towns op- 
 pofite t6 one another, bearing the Name of Eaji 
 Loe^ and WeJlLoe, Thefe are both good trading 
 
 Towns, 
 
Cornw. Great Britain.' 345 
 
 Towns, and efpecially for Fifti j and, which is very- 
 particular, are, like Weymouth and Melcomb in 
 Dorfetjhire, feparated only by the Creek or River ; 
 and yet each of them fends Members to Parliament. 
 Thefe Towns are joined together by a very beauti- 
 ful and ftately Stone Bridge, having 15 Arches. 
 
 Eaft Loe was the antienter Corporation of the Two, 
 and fome Ages ago the greater and more confidcrable 
 Town ; but now they tell us Weft Loe is the richeft, 
 and has the moll Ships belonging to it ; but has 
 neither Church or Chapel, nor Meeting-houfe in it^ 
 Were they put together, they would make a very 
 handfome Sea- port Town. 
 
 Faffing from hence, and ferrying over Foy River, 
 'we come into a large Country without many Towns 
 in it of Note, but very well furniftied with Gentle- 
 mens Seats, and a little higher up with Tin Works. 
 
 The Sea making feveral deep Bays here, they who 
 travel by Land are obliged to go higher into the 
 Country, to pafs above the Water, efpecially at Tre- 
 wardreth-hay^ which lies very broad, above Ten 
 Miles within the Country ; which paffing at Tre- 
 wardreth, z Town of no great Note, tho' the Bay 
 takes its Name from it, the next Inlet of the Sea is 
 the famous Firth, or Inlet, called Falmouth Haven. 
 It is certainly, next to Milford Haven in South 
 Wales, the faireft and beft Road for Shipping that is 
 in the whole Ifle of Britain ; whether we confider the 
 Depth of Water for above 20 Miles within Land ; 
 the Safety of Riding, (helter'd from all kind of Winds 
 or Storms ; the goodAnchorage, and the many Creeks, 
 all navigable, where Ships may run in and be fafe. . 
 
 There are Six or Seven very confiderable PlaceS; 
 upon this Haven, and the Rivers from it : vi%, 
 Grampound, Tregony, T'ruro^ Penryn, Falmouth, St, 
 Mawes, and Pendennis. The Four firft of thefe^ 
 fend Members to Parliament ; altho' the Town of 
 Falmouth, as big as all of them together, (Truro ex- 
 0^5 cepted) 
 
34^ ^ T O U R thro' Corn w. 
 
 cepted) and richer than Ten fuch, fends none. But 
 how fo confiderable a Sea-port and Town, comes to 
 be debarr'd that Privilege, doth not appear. 'Tis 
 certain, that a great Number of fmall inconfiderable 
 lioroughs in this County do now enjoy it ; but 
 until the 6th of EdwardVl. non^ hut Launcefton, 
 J^eskard, Leftwtth'tel, Truro^ Bodmyn, Helfton, and 
 Bojfmey, fent any. And whether it were then im- 
 pofed on the reft as a Punifliment, or conferred as a 
 ravour, is uncertain. I cannot agree with thofe 
 who think it was obtain'd at their Requeft, by the 
 Intereft of their Dulce, becaufe they were invefted 
 with It by King Edward VI. and Queen Elizabeth^ 
 when no Perfon bore that Title. 
 
 St, Mawes^ and Pendennh or Pen-d'mas, (which 
 fignifies in the old Britijh, the End or Head of a 
 City) are Two Fortifications placed at the Points, or 
 Entrance, of this Haven, oppofite to one another, 
 tho' not with a Communication or View. They are 
 very ftrong ; the former principally by Sea, having 
 a good Platform of Guns, pointing 'thwart the Cha- 
 nel, and planted on a Level with the Water j but 
 Pendennis Caftle is ftrong by Land as well as by 
 Water, is regularly fortified, has good Out-works, 
 and generally a ftrong Garifon, and each of them 
 has a Governor. 
 
 St. Mawes, otherwife called St. Mary's, has a 
 Town annex'd to the Caftle, and is a Borough, 
 fending Members to Parliament ; but has neither 
 Church, Chapel, Meeting- houfe. Fair, or Market, 
 in it. 
 
 The Town of Falmouth is by much the richeft, 
 and beft trading Town in this County, tho' not fo 
 antient as its Neighbour Town of Truro; and in- 
 deed, is in fome things obliged to acknowlege its 
 Seigniority, and the Truro Men receive fevera? Du- 
 ties colkdedm Falmouth; particularly Wharfage for 
 the Merchandizes landed, or fhipped off : hSt the 
 
 Town 
 
Cornw. Great Britain-. 347 
 
 Town of Falmouth has gotten the Trade, at leaft the 
 beft Part of it, from the other, which is chiefly 
 owing to the Situation ; for lying upon the Sea, 
 but within the Entrance, Ships of the greateft Bur- 
 den come up to the very Quay, and the whole Royal 
 Navy might ride fafely in the Road ; whereas tha 
 Town of Truro, lying far within, and at the Mouth 
 of Two frefh Rivers, is not navigable for Veffels of 
 above 150 Tons,, or thereabouts ; the Trade at 
 Truro being chiefly, if not altogether, for the Ship- 
 ping ofF of Block Tin and Copper Ore, the 
 latter being lately found in large Quantities in fome 
 of the Mountains between Truro and St. Michaers^. 
 and which is much improv'd fmce the feveral Mills 
 are eredled at Brijiol^ and other Parts, for the Ma- 
 nufactures of Battery-ware, as 'tis called. 
 
 Falmouth is well-built, has abundance of Shipping 
 belonging to it,, is full of rich Merchants, and has 
 an increafmg Trade, becaufeof the fetting up of late 
 Years the Englijh Packets between this Port and 
 Lisbon, which occafions a nev\r Commerce between^ 
 Portugal and this Town, amounting to a very great 
 Value. 
 
 It is true. Part of this Trade was founded in a 
 clandeftine Commerce, carried on by the faid Packets 
 at Lisbon; where being the King's Ships, and claim- 
 ing the Privilege of not being fearched or vlfited by 
 the Cuftom-houfe Officers, they found Means to 
 carry off great Quantities of Brltijh Manufactures,, 
 which they fold on Board to the Portuguefe Mer- 
 chants, and they convey'd them on Shore,, as 'tis 
 fuppofed, v/ithout paying Cuftoni. 
 
 But the Government there getting Intelligence of 
 it, and Complaint ' being made in England alfo, 
 where it was found to be prejudicial to the fair Mer- 
 chant, tliat Trade has been effeClually ftopp'd ; but 
 the F^7/;«o«^Z» Merchants, having by this means gotten 
 a Tafte of the Portuguefe Trade, have maintained it 
 
 Q^ 6 ever 
 
348 T O U R thro" Cornw. 
 
 ever fince in Ships of their own. Thefe Packets brin^^ 
 over vaft Quantities of Gold in Specie, either iS 
 Motdores, or in Bars of Gold, on Account of the 
 Merchants at London. 
 
 The Cuftom-houfe for all the Towns in this Port, 
 and the Head-colleaor, is eftablifhed at this Town, 
 where the Duties, including thofe of the other Ports, 
 are very confiderable. Here is alfo a very great Fifh- 
 ing for Pilchards, and the Merchants of Falmouth 
 have the chiefeft Stroke in that gainful Trade. 
 
 Truro, tho' it gives Place to Falmouth, is however 
 a confiderable Town. It ftands up the Water North- 
 and-by-eaft from Falmouth, in the utmoft extended 
 Branch of the Haven, at the Conflux of Two 
 Rivers, which, tho' not of any long Courfe, have a 
 very good Appearance for a Port, and make a large 
 Wharf between them in the Front of the Town ; 
 and the Water here makes a very good Port for fmall 
 Ships, tho' it be at the Influx, but not for Ships of 
 Burden. There are at leaft Three Churches in it, 
 but no Diflbnters Meeting-houfe, that I could hear 
 of. 
 
 TregonyyOxTregenen, (which in Britijh fignifics the 
 Mouth- town) is a Borough- town upon the fame 
 Water North-eafl: from Falmouth, diftant about 16 
 Mile3^ from it, but is a Town of very little Trade ; 
 nor indeed have any of the Towns fo far within the 
 Shore, notwithftanding the Benefit of the Water, 
 any confiderable Trade, but what is carried on under 
 the Merchants of Falmouth or Truro. 
 
 Grafjipound is a Market-town and Borough, about 
 Four Miles farther up the Water. This Place indeed 
 has a Claim to Antiquity, and is an Appendix to the 
 Duchy cf Cornwall, of which it holds at a Free- 
 farm Rent, and pays to the Prince of Wales, as 
 Duke, 10/. II J. id. per Annum.. It has no 
 Parifh-church, but only a Chapel of Eafe to an 
 adjacent Parifh. Here are fome Remains to be feen 
 
 of 
 
Cornw. Great Britain. 349 
 
 of the famous Coedfala, which, in the Brltijh, 
 fignifies Felon-wood, granted, with all the Lands 
 in it, to the Town, in King Edward III.'s 
 Time. 
 
 Penryn, another Borough-town, is up the fame 
 Branch of the Haven as Falmouth, but Hands Four 
 Miles higher towards the Weft, upon a Hill ; yet Ships 
 come to it of as great a Size as can come to Truro. It 
 is a very pleafant agreeable Town, and for thatReafon 
 has many Merchants in it, who would perhaps other- 
 wife live at Falmouth, The chief Commerce of thefe 
 Towns, as to their Sea-affairs, is the Pilchards, and 
 Newfoundland Fiftiing, which is very profitable to 
 them all. It had formerly a Conventual Church, 
 with a Chantry, and a Religious Houfe, a Cell to 
 Klrton ; but they are all demoliftied, and fcarce the 
 Ruins of them diftinguifliable enough to know one 
 Part from another. This Town is full of Orchards, 
 and looks like a Town in a Wood. The Sea em- 
 braces it on each Side. Its Name is Briti/h, as all 
 thofe Words beginning with Pen, and Tre, and Lan^ 
 (which occur often in this County) are. 
 
 Quitting Falmouth Haven, from Penryn Weft, 
 we came to Helfton, another Borough-town, at 
 about Seven Miles Diftance : It ftands upon the little 
 River Cober, which however admits the Sea fo into 
 its Bofom, as to make a tolerable good Harbour for 
 Ships, a little below the Town. It is the Fifth 
 Town allowed for the Coining Tin, and feveral of 
 the Ships called Tin Ships are laden here. 
 
 This Town is large and populous, and has Four 
 fpacious Streets, an handfome Church, and a good 
 Trade. Beyond this is a Market- town, tho' of no 
 Refort for Trade, called Markel-J ew : it lies indeed 
 on the Sea-fide, but has no Harbour or fafe Road for 
 Shipping. 
 
 At Helford is a fmall but good Harbour, between 
 Falmouth and this Port, where many times the 
 
 Tin 
 
S5^> ^rOVR f^ro' Cornw. 
 
 Tin Ships go in to load for London ; a]fo here are a 
 good Number of Fifhing VelTels for the PJkbard 
 1 rade, and abundance of fkilful Fifhermen 
 Penfance, in BritJA Pen/and, i. e. the" Head, 
 
 XT T?r nK^.^""^* IS the fartheft Town, of any 
 Note, Weft, being 254 Miles from London, and 
 within about Ten Miles of the Promontory called 
 die Lands-end ', fo that this Promontory is from 
 London 264 Miles, or thereabouts. This is a Mar- 
 ket-town of good Bufinefs, well-built and populous, 
 has a good Trade, and a great many Ships belonmn^ 
 to It, notwithftandmg it is fo remote. Here are alfo 
 a great many good Families of Gentlemen, tho' in 
 this utmoft Angle of the Nation : and, which is yet 
 more ftrange the Veins of Lead, Tin, and Copper 
 Ore, are faid to be feen, even to the utmoft Extent 
 of Land at Low- water Mark, and in the very Sea. 
 bo rich, fo valuable a Treafure is contained in thefe 
 Parts of Great Britain, tho' they are fuppofed to be 
 very poor, becaufe fo remote from London, which is. 
 the Centre of our Wealth. 
 
 Between this Town and St. Eurien, a Town 
 midway between it and the Land's-end, ftands a 
 circular Temple of the Druids, confifting of iq 
 Stones, theDiftance between each being i2Feet, and 
 a 20th in the Centre, much higher than the reft • and 
 are not unlike thofe at Stonehenge in Wiltjhire. The 
 Parifti where they ft and is called Bifcard-woune, from 
 whence the antient and now noble Family of Bof- 
 cawen derives its Name. 
 
 In C/^^rParifli in this County, Six orEi^ht Stones 
 of prodigious Bigncfs likewife ftand up in^a Circle : 
 a Monument of the like Nature. 
 
 Thefo are probably, as thofc at Stonehenge and 
 Burien, Remains of Druids Temples. 
 
 And we fliall mention in this Place, t\\?±2itStantQn~ 
 drew, in Somerfetfnire, is another Temple of the 
 Druids, called The Weddings, 
 
 The 
 
Cornw. Great Britain. ^jt 
 
 The Maen-ambery near this Town of Penfancey 
 was alfo a very remarkable Stone, which, as Mr. 
 Camden tells us, tho' it be of a vaft Bignefs, yet 
 might be moved with one Finger, notwithftandmg 
 a great Number of Men could not remove it from 
 its Place. It was deftroy'd, as one of the fame Sort 
 was in Flfejhire^ Scotland^ by one of Oliver's Go- 
 vernors : for thefe Reformers had a Notion of thefe 
 Works being of a fuperftitious kind. 
 
 Maen is a Britijh Word for a great Stone : There 
 is one of thefe Stones, as Dr. Stukely tells us, in, 
 Tyerhyjhire ; and Mr. Toland acquaints us, that there 
 are alfo fuch in Ireland^ as well as Wales ; he gives 
 the following Account of this Piece of Antiquity. 
 
 " At a Place called Maen-amber^ fays he, is a 
 " Heap of Stones roundifti, and of vaft Bulk ; but 
 " fo artificially pitch'd on flat Stones, fometimes 
 " more, fometimes fewer in Number, that touching 
 *' the great Stone lightly, it moves, and feems to 
 " totter, to the great Amazement of the Ignorant ; 
 " but ftirs not, at leaft not fenfibly, when one ufes 
 " his whole Strength." 
 
 Near Penfance^ but open to the Sea, is that Gulph 
 they call Mounts-bay^ named fo from a high Hill 
 ftanding in the Water, which they call St. Michael's 
 Mount \ the Seamen call it only the Cornijh Mount. 
 It has been fortify'd, tho* the Situation of it makes 
 it fo difficult of Accefs, that, like the i5^/^ in Scotland., 
 there needs no Fortification. Like the Bafs too, it 
 was once made a Gaol for Prifoners of State, but 
 now it is wholly negledled. Here is a very good Road 
 for Shipping, which makes the Town of Penfance 
 a Place of good Refort. 
 
 A little up in the Country towards the North-weft 
 is Godolchan., which tho' a Hill, rather than aTown, 
 gives Name to the antient and now noble Family of 
 Godolphin ; and nearer on the Northern Coaft is 
 Ryalton^ which gives the fecond Title to the Earl 
 
 Godolphin. 
 
352 ^rOVR&iro' Cornw. 
 
 ufni^'"' ^^^'^ ^"^"'teJynch in Tin 
 
 But I muft not end this Account at the utmoft 
 Extent of the Ifland of Great Britain Weft, withlu 
 ^.fitmg thofe kmd of E.crefcences of the Ifland the 
 conHnnl where many good Ships are almoft 
 
 ^ ^"'^ many brave Lives 
 
 loft, in fpite of the Manner's beft Skill, or the 
 
 #u"?°T?' other Sea-marks beft Notice. 
 Ihefelfles cMm Latin, Silurum Infula, are 
 fuppofed by fome to be the Cajftterides of the An- 
 tients : they he about 60 Miles from the Land's-cnd, 
 and are a Clufter of fmall Iflands, to the Number 
 as fome reckon, of 145. SciUy was once the chief 
 in Eftimation But 5/. Mary being the fruitfulleft 
 and largeft, tho' but Nme Miles aboSt, has now the 
 rre-eminence j and it has a very good Harbour 
 fom y'd with a Caftle built by ^Q_ueen EulaZl] 
 i hefe Ifles were conquer'd by Atheljiane, one of the 
 l^^xon Kings and from his Time they are deemed a 
 i'art of the County of Cornwall. 
 
 Thefe Iflands lie fo in the Middle between the 
 1 wo vaft Openings of the North and South narrow 
 Seas, or, as the Sailors call them, thQ Brijiol Cha- 
 nel, and The Chanel, (fo called by way of Eminence) 
 that It cannot, or perhaps never will be avoided, Jbut 
 that feveral Ships in the Dark of the Night, and in 
 Strefs of Weather, may by being ou? in their 
 Keckonings, or other unavoidable Accidents, miftake; 
 and if they do, they are fure, as the Sailors cafl it, 
 to run Bump ajhore upon SciUy, where they find 
 no Quarter among the Breakers ; but are beat to 
 pieces, without any Poflibility of Efcape. 
 
 One can hardly mention the Rocks of Seilly, with- 
 out letting fall a Tear to the Memory of Sir CW./7y 
 5W, and all the gallant Spirits with him ; who, 
 'n^^ ^"'''^^^^^P' with Three Men of War, and 
 all their Men, running upon thefe Rocks, right afore 
 
Cornw. Great Britain. 353 
 
 the Wind, in a dark Night, were loft, and not aMan 
 faved, in his Return from a fruitlefs Expedition 
 
 aeainft Toulon. , , , • 
 
 They tell us of Eleven Sail of Merchant Ships 
 Homeward-bound, and richly laden from the South- 
 ward, who had the like Fate, in the fame Place, a 
 great many Years ago ; and that fome of them com- 
 ing from Spain, and having a great Quantity of Bul- 
 lion or Pieces of Eight on board, the Money frequently 
 drives on Shore ftill, and that in good Quantities^ 
 efpecially after ftormy Weather. 
 
 This may be the Reafon why, as we obferved 
 during our ftiort Stay here, feveral Mornings after it 
 had blown fomething hard in the Night, the Sands 
 were covered with Country People, running to and 
 fro to fee if the Sea had caft up any thing of value. 
 This the Seamen call going a jhoring-y and it feems 
 they often find good Purchace. Sometimes alfo dead 
 Bodies are caft up here, the Confequence of Ship- 
 wrecks among thofe fatal Rocks and Iflands ; as alfo 
 broken Pieces of Ships, Cafks, Chefts, and almoft 
 every thing that will float, or roll on Shore by the 
 Surges of the Sea. 
 
 Nor is it feldom that the favage Country People 
 fcuflle and fight about the Right to what they find, 
 and that in a defperate manner j fo that this Part of 
 Cornwall may truly be faid to be inhabited by a fierce 
 and ravenous People, like thofe on the Coaft of 
 Sujfex ; for they are fo greedy and eager for Prey, 
 that they are charged with ftrange, bloody, and 
 cruel Dealings, even fometimes with one another ; 
 but efpecially with poor diftrefled Seamen, when they 
 are forced on Shore by Tempefts, and feek Help for 
 their Lives, and where they find the Rocks them- 
 felves not more mercilefs,' than the People who 
 range about them for their Prey. 
 
 Here alfo, as a farther Teftimony of the immenfe 
 Riches which have been loft at times upon this Coaft, 
 
 we 
 
55*4 ^rOVRfhro' Cornw. 
 
 we /ound feveral Engineers and Projeaors with 
 IJiving £.ng,nes, attempting to recover what had been 
 JOit, and that not always unfuccp<:sfu]ly 
 
 From the Top. of the Hills, on this Extremity of 
 tne i.and, you may fee cut into what they call the ■ 
 Chaps oj the Char.cl; which, as it is the greateft 
 inlet of Commerce, and the moft frequented by 
 Merchant Ships of any Place in the World ; fo oni 
 leluom locks out to Sea-ward, but fomething new 
 prefents of Ships paffing, or repairing, either on the 
 great or le/Ter Chanel. 
 
 This Point of the Lizard, which runs out to the 
 bouthward, and the other Promontory mentioned 
 above, make the Two Angles, or Horns, as they are 
 called, from whence 'tis fuppofed this Country re- 
 ceived its firft Name of Cornwall, or, as Mr. Camden 
 %s, Cornubia in the Latin, and in the Briti^y 
 Kerneu, as running out in two vaftly extended 
 Horns. 
 
 The Lizard Point is flill more ufeful (tho' not fo 
 fer Weft) than the other, which is more properly 
 called the Land's-end, being more frequently firft 
 difcovered from the Sea ; and is therefore the general 
 Guide, and the Land which the Ships chufe to make 
 hrft ; being then fure, that they are paft Scilly. 
 
 Nature has fortify'd this Part of thelfland olBri- 
 tain in a ftrange manner, and fo as is worth a Tra- 
 veller's Obfervation. 
 
 Firft, there are the IHands of Scilly, and the 
 Rocks about them ; which are placed like Out- works 
 to refift the firft Aflkults of this Enemy the Ocean, 
 and fo break the Force of it ; as the Piles or Stirling^ 
 (as they are called) are placed before the folid Stone- 
 work o{ London-bridge, to fence off the Force, either 
 of the Water, or Ice, or any thing elfe that might be 
 dangerous to the Work. 
 
 Then there are a vaft Number of funk Rocks, (fo 
 the Seamen call them) befides fuch as are vifible, and 
 
 above 
 
Cornw. Great Britain. 355* 
 
 above Water ; which gradually leflen the Quantity 
 of Water, that would otherwife lie with an infinite 
 Weight and Force upon the Land. 'Tis obferved, 
 that thefe Rocks lie under Water for a great way off 
 into the Sea on every Side the faidTwo Horns or Points 
 of Land ; fo breaking the Force of the Water, and 
 leflening the Weight of it. 
 
 But befides this, the whole Terra Firma, or Body 
 of the Land, which makes this Part of the Ifle of 
 Britain, feems to be one folid Rock, as if it was 
 formed by Nature to refift the otherwife irrefiftible 
 Power of the Ocean. And indeed, if one was to 
 obferve with what Fury the Sea comes on fometimes 
 againft the Shore here, efpecially at the Lizard Point, 
 where there are but few, if any Out-works, (as I 
 call them) to refift it ; how high the Waves come 
 rolling forward, ftorming on the Back of one an- 
 other, particularly when the Wind blows off" Sea, 
 one would wonder, that even the ftrongeft Rocks 
 themfelves fhould be able to refift and repel them. 
 But, as I faid, the Country feems to be one great 
 Body of Stone, and prepar'd fo on purpofe. 
 
 And yet, as if all this was not enough. Nature has 
 provided another ftrong Fence, and that is, that 
 thefe vaft Rocks are, in a manner, cemented toge- 
 ther by the folid and weighty Ore of Tin and Cop- 
 per, efpecially the latter, which is plentifully found 
 upon the very outmoft Edge of the Land, and with 
 which the Stones may be faid to be folder'd together, 
 left the Force of the Sea (hould feparate and disjoint 
 them, and, breaking in upon thefe Fortifications of the 
 Ifland, deftroy its chief Security. 
 
 This is certain, that there is a more than ordinary 
 Quantity of Tin, Copper, and Lead alfo, fixed by the 
 Great Author of Nature in thefe very remote Angles i 
 fo that the Ore is found upon the very Surface of the 
 Rocks a good way into the Sea, and does not only lie, 
 as it were, upon or between the Stones among the 
 
 Eafthj^ 
 
35<5 ^ T O U R thro\ &c. Comw. 
 
 Earth, which in that Cafe might be wafli'd ftom it 
 by the Sea i but is even blended or mix'd in with the 
 Stones themfelves, fo that the Stones muft be fplit into 
 Pieces to come at it. By this Mixture the Rocks are 
 made exceedingly weighty and folid, and thereby ftill 
 the more qualified to repel the Force of the Sea. 
 
 Upon this remote Part of the Ifland we faw great 
 Numbers of that famous kind of Crows^ which is 
 known by the Name of the Cornijh Chough : they are 
 the fame kind which are found in Switzerland among 
 the Alps^ and which, ?liny pretended, were peculiar to 
 thofe Mountains, and calls the Pyrrhocorax. The Body 
 is Blacky the Legs, Feet, and Bill, oi 2i Yellow, almoft 
 to a Red. I could not find, that it was affeded for 
 any good Quality it had, nor is the Flefti good to eat, 
 for it feeds much on Fifh and Carrion j it is counted 
 little better than a Kite, for it is of a ravenous Quality, 
 and is very mifchievous ; it will fteal and carry away 
 any think it finds about the Houfe, that is not too 
 heavy, tho' not fit for its Food ; as Knives, Forks, 
 Spoons and Linen Cloths;, or whatever it can fly 
 away with; fometimes, they fay, it has ftolen Bits of 
 Firebrands, or lighted Candles, and lodged them in 
 the Stacks of Corn, and the Thatch of Barns and 
 Houfes, and fet them on Fire. 
 
 I might take up many Sheets in defcribing the va- 
 luable Curiofities of this little Cherfonefe, called the 
 Land's-end, in which lies an immenfe Treafure, and 
 many Things worth Notice, befides thofe to be found 
 upon the Surface : but I am too near the End of this 
 Letter. If I have Opportunity, I fhall take Notice 
 of fome Part of what I omit here, in my Return 
 by the Northern Shore of the County. In the mean 
 time, 
 
 I amy &c. 
 
 ^he End of Vol, I. 
 
 index: 
 
INDEX 
 
 TO THE 
 
 FIRST VOLUME 
 
 ABbotfbury Page 297, 
 298 
 
 Addenbroke, Dr. 103 
 Addington 154 
 Alcocke, Bijhop of Ely 97 
 Aid, Rimer 41 
 Aldburgh ihid. 
 Aldermafton 244 
 Aldham Common 28 
 Alexander S.everus, his Coin 
 285 
 
 Alfred, King^ raifes a For- 
 tification 148. Routs the 
 Danes 3 20 
 
 Alphage, Bt. Archhijhop of 
 Canterbury, kiird \ 20 
 Aire, River 199 
 Alresford '245 
 Alfliam 66 
 Alton 207 
 Alva, Duke de, his Perfe- 
 cution 157 
 Ambrefbury 255 
 Ambrius founds a Monaftery 
 ihid. 
 
 Amphitheatre 162. An- 
 other Page 294 
 Anderida 172 
 Andover 254 
 Anglefey, Earl of his Seat 
 209 
 
 Anindel, Thomas 154 
 Anne and Thomas, Accident 
 cwhich hefel that Ship 
 134. 
 
 Anne, ^een, delights in 
 Windfor 242 
 St. Anne's Fort 70 
 Appledore 1 7 1 
 
 Appledore-come 206 
 Arington 1 04 
 
 Arran, Earl of his Seat 209 
 Arthur, King, his round 
 Table 250, 251 
 
 Arun, River 1 89 
 
 Arundel ihid. 
 Arundel, Earl of uoithout 
 the Royal Creation igo 
 Afhburton 328 
 Alhcomb-hills 2 1 7 
 
 Afhford 152, 172 
 
 Afparagus 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Afparagus, the heft p. 1 3 1 
 Athelftane, King^ uohere he 
 etiaSled Laucs 149. Founds 
 a Minfter 308. A Mo- 
 naftery 3 1 2. Subdues Exe- 
 ter 320. Conquers the 
 IJles of Scilly 3(^2 
 Aubery 285 
 A udley,Thomas, Lord Chan- 
 cellor 98. His Monument 
 105 
 
 Audley-end i©^ 
 Auguftine, the Monk 155. 
 His Monaflery 157. Cha- 
 158. 
 
 Aumont, Z)a/f(? de, his Opi- 
 nion of Sir Fifher TenchV 
 Seat \\^ 
 Avon, River 274, 280, 
 285, 292 
 Aurelius Ambrofe, King, 
 rebuilds a Monaftery 255 
 Axminfter 307 
 Aylesford 1^2 
 
 B 
 
 Bacon, Nicolas 37 
 Badew, Richard 93 
 Bag (hot-heath 209,210 
 Bakely 173 
 Ball, John, a feditious 
 Preacher 29 
 Balfham, Hugh, Bijhop of 
 Ely 93. Inftitutes a Pri- 
 ory 98 
 Banliead-downs 225 
 Barham-downs \ 65 
 
 Barking Z *° 1 
 
 Barnardifton, Sir Samuel, 
 his Seat 23 
 
 Barnwell p, ^q, 91 
 
 Barrington, lordVifcount 10 
 Barrow, Ifaac 99 
 Barrows defcrib'd 266 ta 
 272 
 
 Barnftable Hundred 8 
 Barton, (S/r Henry 38 
 Bafmgftoke 242, 243 
 Bateman, William, Bijhop of 
 
 Norwich 
 Battle-abbey 
 Battley, Archdeacon 
 Bavard -caftle 
 Beacon-hill Light-houfe 
 
 95 
 178 
 
 38 
 143 
 18, 
 
 178 
 
 Beaufort, Cardinal^ his Mo- 
 nument 248 
 Beaulieu 1 o 
 
 Beccles 46 
 Beckenham 223 
 Becket, Thomas a 155, 156 
 Beckman, Sir Martin 5 
 Beddington, 124., 232, 233 
 Beechworth-caftle 2 1 8 
 Bennet, his Enthufiafm 277 
 Bentley, Dr. Richard 99 
 Bevis-mount 204, 205 
 Bidlon 3 1 1 
 
 Bigin-gate 165 
 Bigod, Hugh, hisBoaft 46 
 Bildefton 
 Billericay 
 
 Bingham, William 
 Birch Woods 
 Bittern 
 Black-heath 
 
 Black Jack, Earl of Pem- 
 broke 283 
 Black-Notely 109 
 Blackftakes 1 42 
 
 Black TayJ, the Sand 7 
 Blacks 
 
 31 
 20 
 
 95 
 128 
 204 
 121 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Blackwater, River p. 6 
 Jlandford 300, 301 
 
 Bleechingley 222 
 Blithbury 45 
 Blois, Bipop 252 
 Blow-mill-courfe 280 
 Blundel, Peter 325 
 Blyth, Ri'ver 42, 45 
 Boadicea, ^een 10 
 Bocking 108, 109 
 
 Bodley, Sir Thomas 325 
 Bolton, Duke of, his Seats 
 207, 245 
 Boniface, Archhijhop of Can- 
 terbury 154 
 Boreman, i'/r William 120 
 Bofcawen, Family 350 
 Botefdale 37 
 Boxford 35 
 Box-hill 216 
 Boxley-hill 1^2 
 Braintree loS 
 Bramber 188 
 Brampton, Dr. Johnde 325 
 Brandon - 76 
 
 Brankfey 292, 293 
 
 Bray, John, his Strength 
 338 
 
 B.edenftone 167 
 Breed 
 Brentley 
 
 Brentwood 
 
 173 
 80 
 
 19 
 
 Brereton, Sir John 1 00 
 Bridport 298, 299 
 
 Brighthelmfton 187, 188 
 Eriftol, Earl of his Seat, 38 
 BritifFe, Edmund, Efqi 2,7 
 BritifFe, Robert, Efq; 74 
 Britilh Camps 273 
 Brixham 332, 333 
 
 Bromley 223 
 
 Broome P- 43 
 
 Brown, iSzVThomas 5^ 
 
 Brunaburgh Battle 308 
 
 Buckfaftleigh 322 
 Buckland Monachorum 329 
 Bull-hide 177 
 
 Bungay 45 
 
 Bures ^5 
 
 Burgh-caftle 46 
 
 St. Burien 3^0 
 
 Burnet, Bljhop zjj 
 Bury St. Edmunds 31 /a 35 
 
 BulTelton 199 
 
 Butley 44 
 
 C. 
 
 CaHhot-caftle 205 
 Cam, Ri'ver 77, 82, 108 
 Camalodunum 10 
 Camberwell 232 
 Camboritum 108 
 Cambridge To^n and Uni- 
 'verjity gz to 104. Cajlle 
 104 
 
 Cambridgefhire, defcribed 
 80, 8 1 
 
 Camden, the Place of his 
 Retirement 128. ^oted 
 159. Re^i/y'd 216, ziy 
 Camel, Ri'ver 341 
 Candy I/land 7 
 Cann, Ri'ver 20 
 Canons-ieigh, and Canons- 
 teing 322 
 Canterbury 155/0158 
 Canute, King, founds a 
 Church 32. Bb Com- 
 mand to the Ti,:^; 204 
 Capel, Sir Williani 36 
 
 Carew, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Carew, Mr. his Surmey of 
 Cornwall P- 337 
 
 Carisbrook-caftle 206 
 Carleton, Bijhop, his Monu- 
 ment 1^3 
 Carrots, the hejl, njobere 162 
 Carvilium 285 
 Carvilius, his Tomb 268, 284 
 Cafhalton 224, 225, 232 
 Caffiterides 352 
 Cafter 5 3, 64 
 
 Caftle-Rifing 67 
 5/. Catharine's Hill 2 1 3,2 14 
 Catton 66 
 Cawtater 33^ 
 Cavalcade, an extraordinary 
 one 344 
 Cavendilh 36 
 Caxton,/;^ Englifli Printer 
 104 
 
 Chagford 
 Chanel 
 
 Chaps of the Chanel 
 Chard 
 Charing 
 
 Charlton in Kent 123, 124, 
 /« Suffex 195 
 Chatham i^J to 141 
 Chedifton 45 
 Chelmer, River 6, 20 
 
 328 
 
 352 
 354 
 303 
 154 
 
 Chelmsford 
 Chertfey 211, 
 
 20, III 
 
 Its Bridge 
 229 
 
 128 
 277 
 108 
 
 Chefilhurft 
 Cheft, Bijhop 
 Chefterford 
 
 Chefterton 303 
 
 Chichefter 192 to 1,95 
 
 Chichley, Jrchbtjhop, his 
 
 Monument 156 
 
 Child, Sir Jofiah 141 
 
 Chilmark p. 280 
 
 Chipping-Onger 1 1 3 
 
 Chiielbury 284 
 Choughs, Cornifhtfwj 356 
 Chrift-church, /sWilts 274, 
 289 
 
 Chute-hill 286 
 Cibber, Statues made hy him 
 H9 
 
 Cmque-ports 
 Cifla, King 
 Clapham 232, 
 Clare 
 
 Clare, Lady Elizabeth 
 Claremont 227, 
 
 168 
 «9S 
 
 233 
 35 
 93 
 
 228 
 
 Clarence, Duke ofy his Mo- 
 
 278 
 259 
 226 
 
 350 
 100 
 
 nument 
 Clarendon-houfe 
 Clarke, Dr. Alured 
 Cleaver, Alderman 
 St. Cleer 341, 
 Clerk, Sir Francis 
 Cloberry, Sir John, his Mo 
 
 248 
 
 212, 213 
 
 .66 
 goo 
 
 349 
 216 
 
 144 
 
 58 
 
 »43 
 
 Ef^i con- 
 barbarous 
 33> 34 
 19 
 
 Colchefter 11 to 
 
 Colchefter- water 7. Oyjiers 
 taken there 8 
 Coin, River 12 
 Colnies Hundred 40 
 Con- 
 
 nument 
 Clothing Trade 
 Clyde 
 Cobb 
 
 Cober, River 
 Cobham 
 Cobham-hall 
 Cobles, nuhat 
 Cockham Wood 
 Coke, Arundel, 
 
 demrCd for a 
 
 Outrage 
 Coke, Sir Thomas 
 
I N D 
 
 Conftantius builds Silchefter 
 p. 244 
 
 Conftantius Chlorus makes a 
 Road 278, 279 
 
 Coombe 226, 233 
 
 Corfe 293 
 Cornilh Choughs 356 
 Cornwall defcrihedT^'ij'j, 338 
 Cornwallis, Ld. hts Falace 
 80 
 
 Coterels, nvhat 144 
 Cottman, Dean 219 
 Courticello, Cardinal, his 
 
 Monument 1^5 
 Courtney, Archhijhop 170 
 Cowdrey 191, 192 
 
 Cows 205, 206 
 
 Cowick Priory 322 
 Cowley, his Retirement 2 1 1 
 Cranbrook 1^3^ 172 
 
 Crockhaven Torr 328, 329 
 Cromere 5^ 
 CromereBay, ^johat called 
 
 by the Sailors 64 
 Crook, Ri-ver 
 Crookhorn 303 
 Crookfea-water 8 
 Crouch, Rinjer {hid. 
 Cows-hall 33 
 Croydon 224^ 232 
 
 Cuckold's Point 1 26 
 
 Cully ford 30 
 Cuthberga builds a Mona- 
 
 fi'^'y zqo 
 Cuttenbeck 240 
 
 D 
 
 Dagenham ^ 
 ^ihl, his fine Painting of 
 
 ^usen Anne 27 3 
 
 \oi. 1. 
 
 E X. 
 
 Darcy, Sir Conyers, his Seat 
 p. 215 
 
 Darking 219,220 
 Dart, Riqjer 223, 326, 330 
 Dartford 129,130 
 Dartmouth 330/0332 
 Davers, their Seat 80 
 peal 163 to 165 
 
 Deben, River 3^ 
 Debenham 3 g 
 
 Deepden 2 1 9 
 
 Dengy Hundred g 
 Dengynefs i j ^ 
 
 Depttbrd 117,118 
 Devil's-drop ig^ 
 Devil's -dyke go 
 Devonfhire defcrihed 307 
 Devonfhire, Earl of, his 
 'Violent Refentment on a 
 trifling Account 3 1 g 
 
 Dioclefian, his Coin \ 67 
 Dola 
 
 Dorchefter 294, 295 
 
 Dorn-money, <njohat ibid. 
 Dover 165 tt 168* 
 
 Dover C«/?/^ 
 Downham 
 
 Downs 163 to i6e 
 
 Drake, Francis 32 - 
 Drew, Mr. murdered 30 
 Druids, one of their Temples 
 3 ro 
 
 Dubris 
 
 Duck, Dr. Arthur 325 
 Ducket, Andrew 07 
 Duckoys 
 
 Dulwich-wells 223, 2^4 
 Dungarth, A^V^r^ir ^y^- Corn- 
 v/all, dmri-nd ^a-, 
 Dungeon-xhili j -j 
 
 R 
 
I N D 
 
 Dunmovv, the Flitch of 
 Bacon in the Priory there 
 p. 20 
 
 Dunwich 4' 
 Durdans 226 
 Durobrivis 13^ 
 Durolenum ^54 
 Duroverus ^55 
 Dutch, their jIt tempt on the 
 Royal Nanjy I43 
 Duze, River 66 
 Dyfert, Earl of, his Seat 
 80 
 
 Eanfwide, Princefs, builds n 
 
 Nunnery 
 Eaft- Angles, the Boundary of 
 
 that Kingdom 80 
 Eafterbergholt 3^ 
 Eaft-Loe 344> 345 
 
 Eafton 43 
 Eaft-Tilbury f 
 Eaftwell 
 
 Ebbesflete ^oi 
 Eddyftone 334 
 Edgar, King, builds a Nun- 
 nery f53 
 Edmund, King 32. ^here 
 vturdered 45 
 Edward the Elder, King 
 10 
 
 Edward III. places the Fle- 
 mings at Sudbury 29. 
 /o««^^ro/King's-hall 99. 
 Builds Queenborough and 
 tU Caftle 146. Makes 
 fe-veral Ordinances re- 
 ,ktiag to Sea Jffairs I47 
 
 E X. 
 
 Edward the Black Prince 
 P- ^55 
 
 Edward IV. begins Portf- 
 mouth Fort if cations 197. 
 His capricious Conduii to 
 the Foy-men 343 
 
 Edward VI. his Benef anions 
 to Chrift's-coliege 97. His 
 Armour 283 
 
 Egham Caufway 210 
 
 Egmont, Earl of, his Seat 
 124 
 
 Eleanor, Confort of Henry 
 III. 255 
 Elizabeth, Confort of Ed- 
 ward IV. 97 
 Elizabeth, ^een, fends the 
 Flemings to Norwich 54. 
 Builds larger Ships than 
 nvere ufed before 126. 
 Her Care for the Gran- 
 deur of the City of hori- 
 zon 130. Infcription to 
 her Honour 147. Gives 
 the Walloons a Church 
 157. Her Pocket-piftol 
 166. She builds a Caf- 
 tle 352 
 Elliott — a BenefaBor ta 
 St. Germans 34° 
 Eltham, i25' ^^8 
 
 Ely 77 
 Epping Foreft 2 1 , 1 1 3, i H' 
 116 
 
 Epfom 225, 226 
 
 Erafmus, his Defcription of 
 Thomas a "^toket'sShrtne 
 
 Erpingham, lord 
 
INDEX. 
 
 JCex ^e/cnPJ p. 2, 4, 1 1 , 1 1 1 FifliwickV Hop/ 
 lithelbert King, his Palace Fitzwalter, Earl 
 
 ^57- Pagan Chapel 158. 
 His ^een ibid. 
 Etheldred, King, his Monu- 
 ment 2gi. Founds Two 
 Connjents ^ 1 2 
 
 Exe, River 311, 317, 318, 
 322, 224 
 Exeter, Marchionsfsof, her 
 Monument 291 
 Exeter City to ^zz 
 
 fiy« 38 
 Eyles, Sir John, his Houfe 
 
 Eyre, Simon 76 
 
 f'agg, Sir Kohcrt, Bart, his 
 Seat igg 
 St. Faith'j 56, 66 
 
 Fakenham 6t5 
 Ealmouth and Town 
 
 346 348 
 r arnham i q6 
 
 Farlo 286 
 Farnham 207, 208 
 
 iFarnham Af^rif/ i94> 195 
 Feaft of Reconciliation <z/ 
 Lynn 72 
 ' Felixftow 4.0 
 Felfted Cii 
 Fens 75,76,81,82,83 
 retcham 215 
 Feverfliain 148/0151 
 Filhes, Seventeen monjirons 
 ones taken 75. Great 
 Number caught at once 
 218, 219 
 
 IE 
 
 5^«/ 20 
 Flamftead-houfe 1 1 8 
 
 Flats ,16 
 Fleet-ditch, a Perfin of 
 ^ality, and the Reverend 
 Mr. Betham, dronvned 
 i^^^re 244 
 Folkftone i68 
 Fonnereau, Claude, Efq; his 
 Seat 27 
 Ford-abbey joS 
 Fordington 294, ^95 
 
 Fornham ^ i 
 
 Fowey, River 345' 
 Fox, Bijhof, his Monument 
 
 Fox,George, his Stont Build' 
 
 Fox, James, 215 
 Fox, Sir Stephen, his Benefi- 
 cence 286 
 
 l^y , 342, 34? 
 
 Framhngham 4^ 
 Frampton, Mr. gj 
 Fulmeribn, -^/VRichard, /^/x 
 
 Frog- pool 
 
 Froom, River 292, 295 
 
 Gad's-hill 
 
 Oale, Z>r. digs Bones oiit of 
 fe ver al Tumuli 1 2 -» 
 
 Gates, Sir Thomas, Jhip- 
 vjrech'd 309 
 
 Gat ton 2 2Z 
 
 R 2 George 
 
I D E X, 
 
 George I. his BenefaSliom 
 to theUni'verJities of Cam.' 
 bridge and Oxford p. i o i , 
 102, 103. His dangerous 
 Voyage 175, 176. Brings 
 Hampton-court into Re- 
 quejl 242 
 George II. his Statue at 
 Greenwich 1 20 
 
 St. Germans 340 
 Giffard's-hall 36 
 St. Giles's-hill 252 
 Gillingham-caftle 141 
 Glanvill, 5z> John, and Ser- 
 geant 3^^ 
 Godalmin 214 
 Godolchan 35^ 
 Godolphin, Earl, his Seat 
 81 
 
 Godftone .222 
 Godwood 191, i94j ^95 
 Gt)gmagog-hilis 8 1 
 
 Gonevil, Ednvund 95 
 Goodwin Sands 1 7 1 
 
 Gofport 1 99 
 
 Goudhurft 
 
 Grampound 345 
 Grant, Rimer 82 
 Gravel-pits 2 
 Gravefend 130/0 135 
 Green-Man 3 
 Greenwich uSi'o 121 
 Gregory, Sir William 38 
 Grefliam, the Tonjjn 66 
 Grefhams, Brothers, Lord- 
 Mayors of London ibid. 
 Grey-coats of Kent 153 
 Guile-bridge 329, ^^o 
 Gailford 212, 213, 214 
 Guldy-hall 19 
 
 Gundulph, Bijhop, his Ef- 
 figies p. 137 
 Gunning, Bijhop of 'EXy 98 
 Gunpowder Treafon, where 
 contrived 4 
 
 D 
 
 Stone 
 
 28 
 
 '59 
 45 
 322 
 
 229 
 
 Hackney Marfh, 
 
 Caufe-ivay there 
 Haddenham Le-vel 
 Hadley 
 
 Hales, Sir John 
 Halefworth 
 Halldown 
 Ham 
 
 Ham-Ouze 335' 3 3^ 
 
 Hsmpton-court 236 to 242 
 Hankey, Sir Joleph, his 
 
 Seat 36 
 Hanmer, Sir Thomas, his 
 
 Seat ibid. 
 Harold, King, builds a Mo- 
 
 naftery 113. His Granje- 
 
 fto7ie 1 1 4 
 
 Harrington, Lord, his Seat 
 230, 231 
 
 Hartfmere Hundred 43 
 Harwich 15/017 
 Haftings i77 
 Hatfield-Peverel 21,22 
 Haverhill 3^ 
 St. Helens 206 
 Helford 349' 35° 
 
 Hellion 346 
 Hemingfton, its merry Te- 
 nure 3^ 
 Henault Foreft 3, 21 
 Hengift, his 'Treachery 255 
 
 Henry 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 Henry II. 46. Conni'ves at 
 the Murder of Thomas a 
 Becket P- ^55 
 
 Henry III. his Battle nvith 
 the Barons 1 87 
 
 Henry V. fame of his Broad- 
 pieces found 96 
 
 Henry VI. the Founder of 
 King's College g^. Makes 
 
 ■" the Ife of Wight a King- 
 dom 206 
 
 Henry VII. aholipes a Nun- 
 nery 97. hilar ges Green- 
 wich Palace, &c. 119. 
 Augments PortfmouthFor- 
 tif, cat ions 1 97. Remo'ves 
 the Bones of Henry VI. 
 211. Gi-ves the Sivord to 
 the City- of Exeter 3 1 7 
 
 Henry VIII. his Seat 10. 
 Demolifies the Ahhey at 
 Bury 32. L)igs in vain 
 for Gold 37. Chaitges 
 the Name of Lynn Epi- 
 icopi to Regis 69. Foun- 
 der of Trinity College 
 Cambridge 99. Builds 
 a Store-houfe, and ejia- 
 hlifl/es the Corporation of 
 Trinity-houfe at Dept- 
 ford 117. Holds his Feajls 
 Greenwich 118. Com- 
 pletes Greenwich Palace 
 119. Repairs Queenbo- 
 rough Cajile, and builds 
 ethers 1^6. Seizes on the 
 Monajlery at Canterbury 
 156. Builds Dover-pier 
 167. Builds Sandgate- 
 caftle 169. ^aZ/^/j South- 
 
 ampton Fort 203. His 
 
 Armour p. 283 
 
 Herbert, William, Bijhop 
 
 of Norwich 60 
 Hereford, Lord Vifcount, his 
 
 Seat 27 
 Hertford-caftle 10 
 Hervey of Stanton 
 Hickling 
 
 Hide-houfe 25 1 
 
 Hitcham, Sir Robert 
 Hithe, at Colchefter 
 Hoare, Mr. his Seat 
 Hogmagog-hills 
 Hollingbourn-hill 
 Holm 
 
 Holmward 220, 221 
 
 Holt, Lord Chief Jujlice, 
 
 his Monument 
 Holt, the Toivn 
 Holy-crofs Hofpital 
 Honedon 
 
 Honiton 309 
 Hooker, Mr. Richard 
 Hop-grounds 
 
 Hops, great Plantations of 
 them 151 
 Hopton, Sir Ralph, defeats 
 the Parliament Army 33^ 
 Horndon 6l 
 Horn-fair 125^ 
 Horfe-races 78 
 Houghton 67 
 Hoxne 32, 45 
 
 Humphrey, Duke of Glou- 
 cefter 35, 119 
 
 Hunter, Governor, his Seat 
 124 
 
 Hurfeley 200 
 Hythe i6g 
 
 R 3 I. 
 
 99 
 66 
 
 252 
 
 38 
 1 2 
 20 
 81 
 152 
 104 
 
 51 
 
 66 
 
 252 
 
 310 
 
 325 
 
 158 
 
INDEX. 
 
 James I, huorporates St. 
 Mary MagdalenV Hofpi- 
 tal P- 72 
 
 James II, deprlt'ss Hadley 
 of its Charter 28. His 
 Statue, and its fernjile 
 Infer iptio7i 72, 73. Builds 
 a Stable on Ilogmagog- 
 hills 81. Ill treated 149, 
 150. Mds toVott(mQ^\.\i 
 Fortificationt 197 
 
 Jane, Lady , proclaimed on 
 
 '. . 45 
 Icani 1 1 
 
 Ick worth 38 
 
 Icleton to8 
 
 Jewell, £ipS><f Z77 
 
 I J ford 4 
 
 indio 322 
 
 Infirmary at Winchelter 
 
 Ingateftcne 1 9 
 
 Ingateftone Hall and Toivn 
 1 1 1 
 
 Inigo Jones 283 
 John, King, his Gifts to the 
 Corporation of Lynn 73. 
 His amorous Ad'-uenture 
 at Charlton 125. Builds 
 a Palace 279. Changes 
 the Day of Honiton Mar- 
 ket 310 
 
 Jones Efq; his Seat 1 14 
 
 Jouriag, ivhat 303 
 Ipfwich 23 to 27 
 
 Ifening-ftreet 294 
 Iflip, Simon, Archhijhop of 
 
 203, 204 
 82 
 
 Canterbury 
 Itching, Ri-oer 
 St. Ives 
 Ivil, Rinjer 303 
 Julia Domna, her Head 3 1 2, 
 
 Julius Casfar, tvhere fuppofed 
 to land 161, 163, 165 
 Julius II. Pope, ahoiijbes a 
 Nunnery 97 
 
 Ixworth 
 
 37 
 
 Kellington 338^ 
 Kelvedon 1 1 
 
 Kennington 232 
 Kent defcribed 117, 127, 
 128, 129, 152 
 Kentigern «W Morbus, their 
 Tomb 1^4 
 Kett, his Rebellion 53, 72 
 Kett's-cotty-houfe 154 
 Kew-grcen 231 
 Kilmington 308" 
 King, Bijhopy his Monument 
 195^ 
 
 King, Lord Chancellor 326 
 King-barrow 267, 284 
 Kingfclere 245, 
 King^s-ferry 145- 
 Kingfton 226' 
 Knowles, Sir Robert 136 
 Knowl-houfe 184 
 
 L. 
 
 Lack, River 31 
 Landguard Fort 15, 16, iS 
 L?.nd's-end 354, 356 
 
 Lang' 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Langbro' P- 286 
 
 Lahgton, Bi^opr his Monu- 
 ment 15^ 
 Larke, River 38 
 A Laft, ^vhat 58 
 Lavant, Rinjer 
 Lavenham 3° 
 Lavington-creek 22 
 Launcellon 33^ 
 Layton, or Leighton-ftone 
 
 Leaden-hall 7^ 
 Leatherhead 2 1 6 
 
 Lech 171 
 Ledgate 36 
 Lee, River 1 1 3 
 
 Lee'i Prisry 20, 1 1 1 
 
 Leigh 6 
 Lemanis 169 
 Len, River 154 
 Lenham il>id. 
 Leoftoff 50 
 Lelkard 339 
 Leftwithiel 343, 344 
 
 Letheringham 43 
 Lewes 186, 187 
 
 Limne 169, 170, 171 
 
 Linton 105 
 Lifle, 5/r George 11 
 Lith-hill 221,222 
 Littlebury 107 
 Lizard Point 354, 355 
 Loe, River 344 
 London, theShipyhurnt 143 
 Lo ughbo rough-houfe 232 
 Low-Lay ton 115 
 Lucas, Sir Charles 1 1 
 Lucius, King, 1 66, 247 
 Lufkin, Richard 43 
 Luggerlhall 255 
 
 Lyme-Regis p. 299, 3P0 
 Lymington 289 
 Lynn 68 ^« 75 
 
 M. 
 
 Madviaci» ^ 5 3 
 
 Maen-amber 35 * 
 
 Magmenots, a Nonnan Fa 
 mily ' ^ ^ 
 
 Maiden-bower 7^ 
 Maidftone 15 ^'^53 
 
 Maiden 9 
 Maiden-water 7 
 Manchefter, Earl of 72 
 Maningtree 22 
 Mareworth-caftle 154 
 Margaret, ^een 96 
 Margaret, Countefs of Rich- 
 mond 97' 9^ 
 Margate ^59 
 Marham 66 
 Market-Jew 349 
 Marlborough, Duke of 326 
 Martin, Sir Roger 30 
 Martin's-hall-hill 285, 286 
 Mary, ^eenofYrzncc 33 
 Mary 1. retires /'oFramling- 
 ham-caftle 45. Orders 
 the Lord Stourton to be 
 hanged 277 
 Mary 11. founds the Hofpital 
 Greenwich I ig. Her 
 Apartments at Hamptori- 
 eourt 237. Fond of Gar- 
 dening 238 
 Mary, Princefs, becomes a 
 Nun 255 
 St. N ary'j Hamlet 203 
 St. Mary Ifle 352 
 R 4 St. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 5/. Mary Ottery P-3io 
 Maryland Point 2 
 Maud, Empre/s 46. AJJlJled 
 
 Exeter 321 
 Maumbury, wohat 295 
 ^t. Mawes 346 
 Maynard, Sir John 3 26 
 Med way, Ri<ver 13^, 141, 
 
 142, 143, 146, 151, 152, 
 154, 180, 185, 186 
 Melcomb 296 
 Melford 30 
 Membury 309 
 Mendleftiam 38 
 Merlin' J C<zTy<r 231 
 Merfey IJland 8 
 Merfh 77 
 Mew, Bi/hop 247 
 St. Michael'j College 99 
 iS/. Michael'j Mw«/ 351 
 Mickleham 2 1 6 
 
 Midae 191 
 Midhurft ibid. 
 Milburn, Sir John 30 
 Milden-hall 38 
 Mildmay, Sir Walter 99 
 Milton 148 
 Mineral Waters, their V ir- 
 
 tues i8i to 184 
 
 Mines, Tin, Copper, and 
 
 Lead 227 
 Mole, Ri'ver 216 2 1 9 
 Molefey 216 
 Monk, General, his TiSiiire 
 
 313. Where horn 326 
 Monmouth, Duke of 299 
 Montacute, Lord Vifcount 
 
 178. His Seat igi, igz 
 Moor, 5 j/^o/i 0/ Ely I o I 
 Moor-ftone P- 337 
 
 Morden, John, his Ha- 
 Jpital at Black-heath 121 
 to 123 
 
 More-park 208, 209 
 
 Morley, Bijhop of Win- 
 
 chelter 246 
 Mount-Edgcumbe 336 
 Mount's-bay 351 
 Mullets, rvohere the heft 
 
 caught 1 90 
 
 N. 
 
 Nadder, Ri'ver 274, 280, 
 284 
 
 Nafe, the Promontory 14 
 Needham 37 
 Needles, the Streight fo 
 called 289 
 Nene, Rinjer 82 
 Nero,, his Gold Coin 311 
 Nevil, Dean o/'Canterbuiy 
 
 99 
 
 New-chapel, ( a Chapel of 
 Eafe) 4 
 Newenden 172' 
 New Fore It :?oo. Propo- 
 fal for fettling the Pala- 
 tines there 287 /o 289 
 Newhaven 187 
 Newmarket 78, 80 
 
 Newmarket Heath 80 
 New Park 229 
 Newport 206 
 Newton, Sir Henry, his 
 Seat 1 24 
 
 Newton -bulhel 326 
 Neyland 29 
 Nicks, the Highwayman, 
 his 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Ms prodigiops Expedition 
 p. 135, 136 
 J?/. Nicolas 335 
 Nigel, fecond Bijhop of Ely 
 98 
 
 Nonfuch 226 
 Norfolk defcriU'd 52, 53, 
 56, 65. Duke of, his 
 extraordinary Privilege 
 190 
 
 Northampton, Henry How- 
 ard Earl of, founds a 
 College at Greenwich 
 120, 121 
 
 North-Foreland 14. Brick 
 Toiler there 15. Its Si- 
 tuation r 6 1 
 Northleigh 309 
 North Wakham 66 
 
 Norton 
 
 37 
 
 Norton, Colonel 200 to 202 
 Norwich ^3, 54 
 
 Norwood 223 
 
 O. 
 
 Ockingham 242 
 Old Bafing-houfe 242 
 OldSarum 273,274 
 Onflow, Lordy his Seat 2 1 5 
 Orcheftra 280 
 Ore, River 40, 44 
 
 Orford 40 
 Orford, Earl of 78 
 Orfordnefs 40 
 Orwel, River 16,22,23 
 Ofey I/land 7 
 Oufe, River 68, 77 
 
 Oufe, Great and Little 82 
 Oyfter-fifliery at Rochefter 
 1 4 1 . The heji ivhere 1 5 1 
 
 Palmerflon, Lord Vifcomt, 
 his Seat p. 231, 23 z 
 Paper-mill, the firji in Eng- 
 land 1 29 
 Papworth 1 04 
 Parker, Archhijhop of Can- 
 terbury 94 
 Park-hill 302 
 Peckham 232 
 Peckham, Bijhop, his Mo- 
 nument 1 1; 6 
 Pelham, Henry, Efq; his 
 Seat 227 
 Pembroke, Earl of, his Im- 
 provements at Wilton- 
 hoafe 281 
 Pendennis 346 
 Pendering-hal! 36 
 Penryn 349 
 Penfance 350 
 Pepys — - Efq; 98 
 Perry, Captain, fops Da- 
 genham Breach j 
 Peterborough 8 2 
 Peterborough, Earl of, his 
 Maze 204 
 Petersfield 207 
 Peterfham 229 
 Petre, Lord 1 1 1 
 Petre, -SzV William 325 
 Petworth 1 90 
 Vevenky Harhour 177, 178 
 Peverell, Randolph, his Story 
 22 
 
 Pheafants, vuhere in great 
 Plenty 65 
 Philippa, ^een 146 
 Piddle^ 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Piddle, Ri'ver p. 289 
 Piercies, ^/ar/fo/" Northum- 
 berland, their Seat 1 90 
 Pilchards, a great Shoal of 
 them 331, Fijhing for 
 them 348, 349, 350 
 Pinnock, Mr. Henry 131 
 Placentia 119 
 Plymouth 334 to 336 
 
 Plympton 328, 329, 333 
 Pole, Cardinal, his Monu- 
 ment 1 5 6 
 Polefloe Priory 322 
 Pool 289, 292 
 Poore, Bijhop 276 
 Port of London, its Extent 
 H 
 
 Portchefter 196 
 Portland and Caftle 296 to 
 298 
 
 Portfdown-hills 198 
 Portfmouth 196^0198 
 Powder ham -caftle 322 
 Powder-mill j^/ij<iu« a/ 150 
 Prom-hill overflow'' d 171 
 Purbeck 293 
 Purford 2 1 6 
 
 Pyrrhocorax 356 
 
 Quarley-hills 25^ 
 Queenborough 146 ta 149 
 
 R. 
 
 Raleigh, .S/> Walter 325 
 Ramfgate 1 6 1 
 
 Ray, the learned Mr. his 
 
 Monument p. 1 09, 1 1 0 
 Rayley 6 
 Raynham 67, 144 
 
 Rech 80 
 Rech-dyke ibid. 
 Redbridge 1 99 
 
 Redgrave 5 1 
 
 Redhoufe at Deptford hurjit 
 118 
 
 Redwald, King of the Eaft- 
 Angles 44 
 Reepham 66 
 Rendleham 44 
 RichboroHgh-caftle 161 
 Richmond 231 
 Richmond, Duke of his 
 For eft 1 96 
 
 Richmond, Countefs of her 
 Retirement 2 1 2 
 
 Ringwood 292 
 Riverhead 223 
 Roan, Mr. John 120 
 Rochefter 136, 137, 141, 
 142 
 
 Rochefter 5r/<a^<? 136 
 Rochefter, Earl of, his 
 Houfe burnt 229, 230 
 Rochefter Hundred 8 
 Rochford 6 
 Rocks, the natural fortifi- 
 cation of Britain 354 to 
 
 Roding 1 1 3 
 
 Rolle, Henry, Efq\ his te- 
 nure 311 
 Roman Camp, and Military 
 Way 234,235,273 
 Roman Infcription 194 
 Roman, John, his Strength 
 
 338 
 Romney, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Romney, Ld. his Seat p. 1 24 
 Romney, the Village 1 7 1 
 Romney Marjh ibid. 
 Old Romney ibid. 
 Romfey 253 
 Roodings 1 1 3 
 
 Rooke, ^zV George 167 
 Rother, Rinjer 171, 172 
 Rotherham, Archbijhop of 
 York 1 00 
 
 Roxborough, Duke of, his 
 
 Seat 210 
 Royal Catharine funk 142 
 Roy alCharles carrfd 0^ 1 4 3 
 Royal Sovereign, hoixi foon 
 
 fitted out 140 
 Rufus, William, his Fate 
 286, 287 
 
 Rugemont-caftle 3 1 3 
 
 Rumford 19 
 Ruffel, Lardy relievesExeter 
 321 
 
 Ruftibrook 80 
 Rutupiaa r6o 
 Ryalton 35 1 
 
 Rye 173 
 Rygate 222 
 
 105 
 
 303 
 
 Saffron-Walden 
 Salinae 
 
 Salilliury 272 to 278 
 Salifbury Plains 272, 273 
 Saltafli 337 
 Saltwood-caftle 170 
 Bancroft, Archbijhop of Can- 
 terbury c)9 
 Sand for t-callle 296 
 
 Sandgate-caftle p. 169 
 Sandown-caftle 165 
 Sandwich 162 
 Sandy 303 
 Sandys^ Samuel, Efq^i 7 8 
 Sanham 206 
 Saxminden 4 1 
 
 Say's-court, the Seat of Sir 
 John Evelyn 1 1 8 
 
 Scarborough, Earl of, his 
 Seat 1 9 1 
 
 Scilly Rocks 352 
 Scots Runts, ivhere and how 
 fattened 5 6 
 
 Sea-coaft of Yarmouth 'very 
 dangerous 62 to 64. dread- 
 ful Injiances of it 64, 65 
 Seckford, Thomas 39 
 Seven Buraharas 67 
 Sevenoak 1 86 
 
 Sevenoak, Sir William ibid. 
 Severus, his Silnjer Coins 
 
 ShaftelBury 302 
 Sheen 231 
 Sheep, great Numbers of 
 them 29^ 
 Sheernefs 142, 143, 144 
 Shelly, Sir John, his Seat 
 189 
 
 Shelnefs 149 
 Shepey Ifie, 143 to 146 
 Sherlock, Bijhop 276 
 Ships, howj caufed to fiop at 
 Gravefend 132, 133 
 Shipway 171 
 Shirebourn 301, 302 
 
 Shoe-beacon 7 
 Shoeberry ibid. 
 
 Sliee- 
 
I N D 
 
 Slioeberrynefs' p. 7 
 
 Shooters-hill , 121, 129 
 Shoreham 188 
 Shovel], 5i:VCloudefly 140. 
 
 His Fate 352*353 
 Sigebert, King 32 
 >*-ilchefter 243, 244 
 
 Siliirum Infulae 352 
 Sitomagus 75 
 Sittingbury 14S 
 Slate, the befl 337 
 Smithies, Mr. Ferdinando 
 97 
 
 Sii^L^e. Monaftery 41? 43 
 Snare-gate 166 
 Snaybell 77 
 Snetham 67 
 Sogenhoc Chapel 43 
 Sohan 77 
 Somers, Sir George, Jlip- 
 
 ixjreck^d 309 
 SoCmerfet, Duke of, his noble 
 
 Seat 190, igi 
 
 Sorbiodunum 27 j 
 
 South-Foreland 163 
 Southampton, 199, 202 to 
 204 
 
 South wark 233 iff 235 
 Southwick 200 
 Southwould 42. Sea-fight 
 in its Bay 461 47 
 
 Sowl bay 42 
 Spillman, Sir John 1 29 
 Spithead 206 
 Spits, Sands fo called 8 
 Spring-garden 234 
 Squirrics 222 
 Stanar 1 60 
 
 Standard-hill 178 
 Stanes-bridge 210, 211 
 
 E X. 
 
 Stane-ftreet p. 170 
 
 S tann ary Towns 328,329 
 Stanfted-houfs 1 96 
 
 Stanton-drew 359 
 Steele, Sir Richard, his 
 Stratagem 250 
 Stephen, Ki-ng 46. Founds 
 a Monafiery at Feverfhanl 
 149. His and his ^een''s 
 Tombs 150 
 Steyning 188 
 Stoke juxta Neyland 36 
 Stokebridge 254 
 Stomacher 217 
 Stone-henge 256 to 266 
 Stoney-ilreet 219 
 Storm, the great 1 64 
 
 Stour, River 16, 22, 35, 
 36, 10^, 172, 289, 300 
 Stourbridge 301 
 Stourton, Lord, his Crime, 
 Execution, and Monu" 
 ment 277 
 Stow-market J7 
 Stratford, in Efiex 2 
 Stratford, in Suffolk 36 
 Strethal 108 
 Stretham 224, 232 
 
 Stroud 137 
 Sturbridge Fair 83 90 
 Sudbourne 43 
 Sudbury 29 
 Sudbsry, Simon Theobald, 
 Jrchbijhop of Canterbury 
 ibid. 
 
 Suffolk, Subfcription for the 
 Widows and Orphans of 
 Clergymen there 27, 28 
 
 Suffolk, High, defcribed 40, 
 49, 50. For 'what par- 
 ticularly 
 
INDEX. 
 
 iiculai-ly famous P- 4^ 
 Suffolk, V/efi, hoiu fup- 
 ported 50. Part of it de- 
 fcribed 79 
 S)\xSex defcribed 185 
 Swain, King, takes Exeter 
 320 
 
 Swale, Ri-ver 146 
 Swallows, Account of their 
 Departure 47 
 Swallows in the Ri-verMo\e 
 217, 219 
 
 Swamp 142 
 
 Tamar, Riwr 335, 336, 
 337. 338 
 
 Tankerville, Earl of, his 
 Seat 1 9 1 
 
 Taviftock 328, 329 
 
 Tavy, Riwr 329 
 Taylor, Dr. Rowland, mar- 
 tyr d 28 
 Temple, Sir William, his 
 Will 208 
 Tench, Sir Fifher, his Seat 
 
 Ten-mile-courfe 284 
 Tenterden 153, 171 
 
 Teri, River 199 
 Thames, River 121, 124, 
 127, 229, 232 
 Thanet, Earls of, fcveral 
 
 of their Monuments 144 
 Thanet Ifle 159 
 Theodofius, his Coin 3 1 1 
 Thetford 54j 75 
 
 Thompfon, Robert, Efq; his 
 
 7omb 154 
 
 Thorndon p. 1 1 1 to 11^ 
 Thorney Ife 77 
 Thornhill, Sir James, his 
 fine Paintings at Green- 
 wich 1 20 
 Three Hundreds, Marjhes 
 in Effex fo called 6. Their 
 Names 8. Fatal to the 
 Fair Sex, and <why ibid. 
 Thrembethe-bridge 145 
 Tichfield 199 
 Tidwell 309 
 Tilbury Fort 5, 6 
 Tilney, Earl, his Seat 1 1 4, 
 115 
 
 Timber, prodigious ^anti- 
 ties fill remaining in Eng- 
 land 185, 19 b 
 
 Tin Mines 355, 356 
 
 Tofts, Mary, the Rabbet- 
 ixiomaM 214 
 
 Tonftal, iJj/^'o/. 0/ Durham 
 100 
 
 Tooting 233 
 Torbay 332 
 Torr-abbey ibid. 
 Totnefs 326/0 328 
 
 Town-Mailing 223 
 Townfhend, late Lord V if- 
 count, his Benefactions 
 74, 101 
 
 Travelling Norfolk Fellow- 
 ftiip 98 
 Traufantum 203 
 Tregony 345, 348 
 
 Tremod-ferry 1 4 5 
 
 Trewardreth Bay and Tovjn 
 
 345 
 
 Truro 345, 346, 347, 348 
 Tulip-tree, a fine one 1 1 4 
 Tun- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Tunbridge p. 1 79 /« 1 84 
 Tunn, River 180 
 Tunftall, Broad-pieces found 
 
 there 159 
 Turkeys, prodigious Droves 
 
 of them 48, 49 
 
 Turneps, njohere firji ufed for 
 
 feeding Cattle 48 
 
 V. 
 
 153 
 
 ibid. 
 
 Vaga 
 Vagniacis 
 Venta Icenorum 53 
 Venus, her Marble Statue, 
 281 
 
 Vefpafian, nvhere he landed 
 332 
 
 UfFord 43 
 UfFord, John, Archbipop of 
 Canterbury 154 
 Villa Fauftini i o 
 
 Vindomia 243 
 Vortimer, King, his Sepul- 
 chre 1 60 
 Uplime 309 
 Upnor 142 
 Uvall, Bijhop 277 
 Uvius, Prior <j/" Hulm 32 
 
 W 
 
 Wainfleet, Bijhop, his Mo- 
 nument 247, 248 
 Waller, Sir William, ruins 
 theBif>op's Palace «/Win- 
 chefter, l^c. 246 
 The Walls 285, 294 
 Walmar-caftle 1 65 
 Walpole, 'S';> Robert, his 
 
 Seat p. 67. His fingular 
 Felicity 68. Infcriptiox 
 on the Foundation Ji one of 
 his Houfe ibid. 
 Walfingham 67 
 Waltham-abbey 1 1 3 
 
 Waltheof, Earl, beheaded 
 /^William I. 252 
 W^ton, in Effex, Copperas 
 found there 15 
 Walton in Suffolk 39 
 Walton in Surry 228 
 Wanfdike 280 
 Wanfted-houfe 3, ii6 
 Ward, Bijhop, his Bene- 
 faSlion, and Monument 
 277 
 
 Wareham 293 
 Warham, Archbifljop, rails 
 Rochefter Bridge uoith 
 Iron 136 
 Warminfter 280 
 Warner, Rochefter 
 223 
 
 Warwick, Earl of and 
 King of Wight , his Pa- 
 lace 206, 233 
 
 Watermen, for regu' 
 lating them 134 
 
 Watling-ftreet 123, 137, 
 165 
 
 Waveney, Ri'ver 45, 46, 
 5o» 55 
 
 Weald 190 
 The Weddings 350 
 Welland, Ri'ver S2 
 Wells 66 
 Wefterham 222 
 Weft-Hythe 169 
 Weft-Loe 34+' 3+5 
 
 Wey, 
 
 4 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Wey, River p. 212, 216, 
 296 
 
 Wey bridge 228 
 Weyburn-Hope 66 
 Wey hill 254, 255 
 
 Weymouth 294, 296 
 
 Whalebone 3 
 Wheatear, the Bird 180 
 Whitchurch 243 
 Whitgift, Archbijhop, his 
 Charities 224 
 Wickham Market 43 
 Wight, IJle 205 to 207 
 Wightred, King ofYLtxit 1 65 
 William the Conqueror 
 tranjlates the See of 
 Dunvvich to Thetford 42. 
 Tahs Norwich 53. Builds 
 a Cajlle at Cambridge 
 104. Obliges Harold to 
 take an Oath 166. Where 
 he landed 177. His de- 
 ciji've Battle, ibid. Lijii- 
 tutes an Abbey ibid. His 
 Tyranny 286 
 William of Wickham, Af- 
 Jijlant to Edward III. in 
 building '■' Windfor - caftle 
 146. His Momonent 248. 
 His Hijlory 248, 249 
 William III. refiores Aud- 
 ley-end to the Earl o/Suf- 
 folk 106. Founds Gxt&VL- 
 yiioh Hgfpital Im- 
 proves Hampton - court 
 237. His Tajie for Paint- 
 ing 240, 241 Where 
 he landed 332. C aufes a 
 Doet Dock to be built at 
 Plymouth 336 
 
 Willy, River 274, 280, 
 p. 281, 284 
 Wilton-houfe, and Toivn 
 >-28o, 285 
 Wilts defcriVd 279 
 Wimbleton 233 
 Wimbourn, St. Gyles'x 292 
 Wimburn-minfter 253, 290, 
 291, 292 
 
 Wimple-ball 1 04 
 
 Winchelfea, Old and ISIew 
 
 i']6, 189 
 Winchelfea, the Ship, lojl 
 
 334' 335 
 
 Winchefter, Bijhop of, his 
 Palace 208 
 Winchefter 246/0253 
 Windfor Foreji 209 
 Wingham 163 
 Winltanley, Mr. his inge- 
 nious Contrivances 107, 
 108. His unhappy Fate 
 334 
 
 Wintertonnefs 62 
 Wifbich 76 
 Witham Tovjn and Cajlle 
 10 
 
 Wobourn-farm 228, 229 
 Woel fleet Bank and Oyjiers 
 7 
 
 Woking 211, 212 
 
 Wolfey, Cardinal, his Birth, 
 
 and various Fortunes 26. 
 
 His Seat 227 
 Women, their Bravery and 
 
 Succefsat Dartmouth332 
 Woodbridge 39 
 Woodlark, Robert 97 
 Woodward, Dr. his Bene- 
 
 f anions to the XJniverfity 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 o/* Cambridge p. 103 Wulpit P- 37 
 
 Woolwich 126, 127 Wyvenhoe i 
 Worfted 66 
 
 Wotton 220, 221 Y 
 Wren, Sir Chriftopher , 
 
 JirengtheiJsSdXiG^my Spire Yare, Rin;er 54,55, 57, 
 
 275 58 
 
 Wrey, Lord Chief Jujiice Yarmouth 57 to (iz 
 
 98 Yarmouth, South 206 
 
 Wring-cheefe, luhat 342 Yarnbury 280 
 
 Wrotham 223 Yeomen o/" Kent 153 
 
 Yeovil 330 
 
V'l 
 
 THE GETTY CENTER