. 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 SICILY GREECE AND ALBANIA 
 
 REV. THOS. SMART HUGHES 
 
 LATE FELLOW OF SAINT JOHN'S AND NOW FELLOW OF EMMANUEL COLLEGE 
 
 CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH 
 
 ENGRAVINGS OF MAPS SCENERY PLANS &c. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES 
 
 VOL II. 
 
 LONDON 
 PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN 39 LUDGATE STREET. 
 
 1820. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 VOLUME II. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAes 
 
 Difficulty of procuring Historical Records for a History of Ioannina— Cursory View of the dif- 
 ferent Nations who have inhabited Epirus— Conjectures on the Origin of Ioannina— Its 
 History in the Middle Ages— Its Capture by the Turks— Story of Dionysius the Skeloso- 
 phist — Present Condition of Ioannina in Public Buildings, Schools, &c. — Commerce — 
 Produce of its Soil — Food of the Inhabitants — Climate— Diseases— Cruel Instance of Ali 
 Pasha's Tyranny 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Marriage Procession of Giovanni Melas— Marriage Feast and various Entertainments—Reflec- 
 tions upon the State of Female Society in Greece — Story of Fhrosini —Story of Gelisem — 
 Marriage Ceremonies— Albanian Wedding 29 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Shooting Excursion with Mouchtar Pasha upon the Lake— Dinner on the Island— Invitation to 
 a grand Entertainment by the Vizir — Description of it — Visits from the chief Greeks of 
 Ioannina — Signore Alessio, the Governor of Zagori— Visit of Ceremony to the Vizir— His 
 Skill in Geography— Shooting on the Lake— Thalassopuli— Police of Ioannina — Review 
 of Albanian Troops by the Vizir— Our general Manner of Living— Manners and Customs 
 of the Greeks— Marriage Procession of one of Ali Pasha's Concubines— Ali's Harem— His 
 Court and Officers 45 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 State of Literature in Ioannina — Romaic Language— Turkish Society— Anecdote of a Greek 
 Papas— Vespers at the Cathedral— Church of Sta. Marina— Vizir's Baih— End of Carni- 
 val — Tyrannical Acts of Ali Pasha— Tenure of Land in Albania— Chiflicks — Comparative 
 State of Albania with the rest of Turkey— Greek Funeral— Expedition of Ali against Parga 
 — Dinner with Mr. Pouqueville— Ali's Council — Visit to Mouchtar Pasha — Occurrence 
 at his Serai — Festival at the Church of St. Theodore — Greek Superstitions, Clergy, &c. . . 71 
 
 a2 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Difficulties which occur to the Writer of Ali Pasha's early History — Prefatory Remarks respect- 
 ing the Country called Albania and its Inhabitants— Ali's Birth-place and Family— His 
 Situation at the Death of his Father— Character of his Mother — Ali's Education— His 
 Mother and Sister carried off by the Gardikiotes — Ali's first Attempts at Warfare and va- 
 rious Success — His Adventures in the Mountains of Mertzika — Throws off his Depen- 
 dence on his Mother— Turns Kleftes — Taken by Kourt Pasha and released— Again turns 
 Kleftes— Taken by the Pasha of loannina but released — Is again attacked by Kourt, but 
 succeeds in gaining his Favour— His Adventures at Berat— Enters into the Service of the 
 
 Pasha of Negropont— Gains Wealth and attempts to seize upon Argyro-Castro, but fails 
 
 Takes Libochobo, &c. — Destroys the Town of Chormovo— Attacks the Pasha of Delvino 
 whom he assassinates, but is driven from the Place— Is made Lieutenant to the Derven- 
 Pasha— His Conduct makes the Pa3ha lose his Head— Serves against the Russians— En- 
 ters into Correspondence with Potemkin— Gains the Pashalic of Triccala— Attacks loan- 
 nina— Gains a Battle over the Beys— Succeeds by Stratagem in taking the City— Appoint- 
 ed by the Porte Derven-Pasha of Rumelia— Conquers the Pasha of Arta— Takes Klissura 
 Premeti, Ostanizza and Konitza, and secures the Course of the Vo'iussa from Mount Pin- 
 dus \o Tepelen^ ...,., , 09 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Account of the Suliots— Country, Government, Habits, Manners, and Customs Ali's first At- 
 tempts against them— His Stratagem— How defeated— Anecdote of Tzavella and his Son 
 
 — Ali attacks Suli— Desperate Resistance of the Suliots — Heroine Mosco Ali's Defeat 
 
 and Flight to loannina— Peace concluded-— Ali's Policy with regard to foreign Powers 
 and his own Government — French Occupation of the Ionian Islands— Ali's Intrigues with 
 Bonaparte— Attends the Grand Vizir against Paswan Oglou— War between Turkey and 
 
 France— -Ali takes Advantage of it — Ionian Isles pass under the Protection of Russia 
 
 Ali takes all the Continental Dependencies except Parga— Terms on which these are con- 
 ceded to the Porte— Ali, for his Services, is made Rumelie-Valisee, with the Title of Vizir 
 — Commences a second War with the Suliots— Interprets the Prophecies of the Koran to 
 
 encourage his Adherents— Leads his Troops against Suli — Joined by the Traitor Botzari 
 
 Bad Success in several Engagements — Turns the Assault into a Blockade 121 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Ali turns the Siege of Suli into a Blockade— Brave Action of the Suliots, in which Foto Tza- 
 vella is wounded— Stratagem of the Suliots— Treachery of Ali— Letter of the Suliots— 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PARE 
 
 Proposal of Ali to purchase Suli — Answer of the Suliots — Attempt made to bribe Dimo 
 Zerva, but fails — Distress of the Suliots— Assistance sent by the French — Effects of Famine 
 
 Supplies gained by a desperate Effort— Two Suliot Captains yield to the Vizir's Bribes 
 
 —One of them repents— Stratagem of Strivinioti— Confederacy of the Tzamouriot Beys 
 against Ali— How dissolved— Ali joins the Army of the Grand Vizir against Paswan Oglou 
 —Endeavours to impose upon the Suliots at his Return— Persuades them to banish Foto 
 Tzavella— Foto goes to Ioannina— Thrown into Prison there— Attack of the Fortress of 
 Villa by the Suliots — The Vizir, indignant at their Valour, collects a vast Army under the 
 Command of his Son Vely— Kiaffa taken— Foto Tzavella being released, returns to his 
 Country— Last Action of the Suliots— Kako-Suli surrenders — People emigrate— Treacher- 
 ous Conduct of the Albanians — Suliots attacked— Affair of Zalongo— Desperate Revenge of 
 Samuel the Caloyer— Suliots again attacked— Affair of Rhiniasa— Action at Vurgareli— 
 Emigration of the Suliots — Song of Suli— Story of the Traitor Palasca— Ali's Quarrel with 
 the Beys of Tzamouria— Suliots return from Corfu, in hopes of recovering their Mountains 
 —111 treated, and regain the Islands— Enter the Russian Service — Ali alarmed at the Pro- 
 gress of the French arms in Dalmatia— Recovers the goodwill of Bonaparte— French Con- 
 sul established in Albania— Ali gains Pashalics for his two Sons by the Interest of Sebastiani 
 — Rupture between Turkey and Russia — Ali reoccupies the Continental Dependencies of 
 the Seven Islands — Ruins Prevesa-— Receives Artillery-men and Stores from his French Allies 
 —Colonel Vaudoncourt is sent to Ali — His Opinion of the Vizir — Fortifies Prevesa— Joint 
 Insurrection of Tzamouria, Delvino, and Berat against Ali— Reduced by him— Admiral 
 Duckworth's Expedition against Constantinople 152 
 
 CHAPTER VEIL 
 
 Ali deserted by his French Allies— Sends an Envoy to the Conference at Tilsit— Seven Islands 
 conceded to the French— Ali endeavours to gain Parga, but fails— His impolitic Revenge — 
 Admits an English Agent to a Conference— Assists the English in making Peace with Tur- 
 key, and publicly espouses the British Interests— Expulsion of the French from five of the 
 seven Islands — Ali takes Berat — Endeavours to gain possession of Santa Maura and Parga, 
 but fails— Makes a Gain both of the English and the French— Conquers the Tzamouriot 
 Beys— Subdues Kimarra— Mission of Mr. G. Foresti as English Envoy to Ioannina — Ali 
 escapes the Danger of a powerful Invasion by the French Troops from Dalmatia and Corfu 
 — Avlona taken and Ibrahim Pasha made Prisoner — Ali attacks Gardiki, conquers it, and 
 massacres the Inhabitants— Murders the Pasha of Delvino — Takes Measures preparatory 
 to putting Ibrahim to death— The Porte sends an Officer to inquire into his Conduct— 
 Ali's Cunning— His Treatment of the French Consul — Alarmed at the Conduct of the 
 Porte-— Averts the Storm — Ep.deavours to bribe General Denzelot and Mr. Pouqueville to 
 surrender up Parga to his Arms — Failing in this Attempt he attacks it with his Troops — 
 Defeated before the City— Parga surrenders itself to English Protection— Subsequent 
 Transactions relative to its History and final Delivery into the Hands of its inveterate Foe — 
 Summary of Ali's Character— Views regarding his Successor, &c. &c 182 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 PACK 
 
 Visit to Mr. Pouqueville— His Opinion respecting Parga— Visit to Mouchtar Pagha--- Adventure 
 of a Robber— Accident at Signore Nicolo's House— Superstitions of Mustafa— Old Tatar 
 sets out on his Pilgrimage to Mecca-— Spring at loannina — Appearance of Hawks and 
 Storks— Excursion to the North of Albania— Zitza— Fall of the Kalamas or Thyamis— 
 Tzarovina— Vizir's Powder-Mills — Delvinaki — Misery of its Inhabitants- -Inscription upon 
 a Church — Violent Conduct of Mustafa— Valley of Deropuli - Reflections thereon— Palaia- 
 Episcopi— Snuff Manufactory— Libochobo -Remains of Adrianopolis— Appearance of Ar- 
 gyro-Castro — Albanian Soldiers— Captain Gianko- -Cries of Women for the Dead -Descrip- 
 tion of Argyro Castro— Inspection of the Fortress— Visit to Salee Bey the Vizir's youngest 
 Son— The unfortunate Demetrio Anastasi- Statistical Paper sent by the Bishop of Argyro- 
 Castro — Mistake of the Author respecting the Bearer 225 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure from Argyro-Castro— Fortress of Schindriada— Fountain of Viroua— Visit to the 
 Ruins of Gardiki— Han of Valiare— Road to Tepeleni- -Arrival there and Reception at the 
 Grand Serai— Hospitality of the Sultana— Ibrahim the Albanian Governor— Description of 
 Tepeleni— Serai burnt down— Curious Anecdote of Ali Pasha connected therewith— Excur- 
 sion to Jarresi— Gardens of the Serai-- Departure from Tepeleni— Mad Dervish -Route to 
 Berat— Magnificent Scenery, curious Dwelling-Houses and Manners of the People- 
 Approach to Berat up the Valley of the Apsus- Lodging in the Suburb of Goritza— Curious 
 Fashions of the Women— Visit to Hussein Bey— Old Usuff Araps — Turkish Chargers — 
 Ascent up the Acropolis -Buffaloes— Ancient Isodomon in the Fortress- Historical Accounts 
 —Great Plain— Ali's Character in Berat— Extract from Mr. Jones's MS. Journal relating 
 to Apollonia, Delvino, Phcenike, &c 243 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Departure from Berat- Route to Klissura— Description of the Town and Fortress — Fauces An- 
 tigonese— Route to Premeti- Lustral Eggs— Town of Premeti, Serai, and curious Rock on 
 the Bank of the Vo'iussa--Interesting Route to Ostanitza- Castra Pyrrhi -Ostanitza- Route 
 to Konitza -Picturesque Situation of that City— Mountain of Papingo— Albanian Governor's 
 Hospitality— Ascent to the ancient Fortress- Beautiful Crystals found on the Hill— Route to 
 Mavro-vouni, and from thence to loannina— Ceremonies of Easter— Greek Fasts — Visit to 
 the Vizir, Mouchtar and Mahmet Pashas -Money Affairs at loannina, Rate of Interest, &c. 
 —Visit to Signore Logotheti of Livadia— Excursion to the Island in Search of MSS.— 
 Dinner with Mouchtar Pasha— Vizir sends his Chaoushes for us— Translation of his Papers 
 --Interesting Conversation with Ali— Sudden Change of Weather— Visit to the Convent of 
 2 
 
CONTENTS. rii 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Saint George, on Occasion of its Festival— Moonlight Scene from the Heights of Mitzikeli — 
 Anecdote of Mustafa — Scene with the Hegumenos — Greek Convents and Caloyers--Last In- 
 terview with Ali Pasha, &c.~Departure from Ioannina 270 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Departure from Ioannina — Cassopaea — Route to Paramithia — Grecian Spring— Vlakiote Shep- 
 herds — Pass of Eleftherochori — Plain of Paramithia — City — Visit from the Primate and 
 Bishop— Ascent to the Castle — Route along the Plain to Glyky-— Plutonian Temple— -Dis- 
 trict of Aidonati — San Donato and the Dragon — Monastery of Glyky — Waterof the Acheron 
 — Fortress of Glyky and its Albanian Commander — Excursion over the Plain of Phanari — 
 Village of Potamia— River Cocytus — Convent of St. George— Monastery of St. John, on 
 the Site of the ancient Necyomanteum— Greek Papas— Ruins of Cichyrus or Ephyre in 
 the District Elaiatis — Theseus and Pirithous — Acherusian Lake — Malaria of the Plain 
 — Conjectures on its Mythology— Ancient City of Buchetium— Return to Glyky— Sleep 
 under the Tent, surrounded by Albanian Palikars— Fine Night-scene— Poetical Address to 
 the Acheron — Curious Dream of the Author's — Ascent up the Pass of Glyky — Arrival at the 
 Vizir's great Fortress of Kiaffa — Salute from the Fort— Scenery described— Adventure of 
 the Author — Suicide committed by an Albanian Palikar— Ceremonies before Interment — 
 Ascent to the highest Summit of the Suliot Mountains — Grand Panoramic View 301 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Departure from Suli— District called Laka— Forests of Oaks in the Route to Lelevo-~Fire-flies 
 —Route to Castri — Ruins — Albanian Wedding— Route to the Village of St. George — 
 Enormous Plane Trees — River of Luro— Description of the great Aqueduct— Route to 
 Eleftherochori— Bridge of the Pasheena— Greek Monastery— Route through the Woods of 
 Arta — Guard of Albanian Peasantry— Dogana and Canal of Luro — Castle of Rogous— 
 Serpents— Cangia — Traces of the Aqueduct — Luro— Arrival at Camarina— Captain Gian- 
 naki— Visit to the ancient Ruins at Rhiniassa— Cyclopean Walls, Citadel, Theatre, Plan of 
 the City, &c. — Route through Nicopolis to Prevesa— Visit to Ali Pasha's Frigate — Punta 
 and Fortress— Excursions to Nicopolis and Santa Maura— Difficulty in procuring Means of 
 Conveyance— Departure from Prevesa 326 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Departure from Prevesa — Porto Phanari— Arrival at Parga— Description of its Site, &c— Cha- 
 racter of the People— Historical Details of Parga — Conduct of the Russian Cabinet— Walk 
 in the Environs— Departure to Paxo— Description of that Island— Ancient Legend— Sail 
 through the Channel of Corfu— Coast of Epirus— Acroceraunian Mountains— Celebration 
 
Tiii CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 of the King's Birthday on the little Isle of Marlera— Tent Scene— Reflections thereon— - 
 Cross the Adriatic— Coast of Italy— Ruins of Egnatia— -Bari— Barbary Corsair — Bar- 
 letta — Quarantine 346 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Release from Quarantine — Description of Barletta — Excursion to the Site of Cannae — Cannosa — 
 Church of St. Sabinus — Sepulchre of Bohemond — Ancient Tomb, Armour, and Vases dis- 
 covered in an Excavation — Curious Mistake made by the Author and his Friend — Departure 
 for Naples — Banditti~Ponte di Bovino — Settlements of Albanians— Naples— -Rome— Flo- 
 rence — Passage over the Alps — Lyons— Paris — Arrival in England — Conclusion 364 
 
 Appendix, containing an Inscription on the Han of Valiare ; and a Translation into Romaic of 
 
 Lord Wellington's Dispatch on the Battle of Waterloo, extracted from an Ionian Gazette. . . . 383 
 
TRAVELS, 
 
 <§fC. SfC. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Difficulty of procuring Historical Records for a History of Ioannina — ■ 
 Cursory View of the different Nations who have inhabited Epirus — Con- 
 jectures on the Origin of Ioannina — Its History in the Middle Ages — 
 Its Capture by the Turks — Story of Dionysius the Skelosophist — Pre- 
 sent Condition of Ioannina in Public Buildings, Schools, tyc. — Commerce 
 — Produce of its Soil — Food of the Inhabitants — Climate — Diseases — 
 Cruel Instance of Ali Pasha's Tyranny. 
 
 1 HOPE I shall not act contrary to the reader's inclination by 
 commencing this volume with a few historical details respecting the 
 city in which we at this time resided; especially since it has been 
 hitherto very slightly noticed by travellers. Indeed the difficulty of 
 collecting any accurate information respecting it is very great, since 
 neither in its origin, nor in its early progress towards grandeur, was it of 
 consequence enough to engage the particular attention of historians : 
 they merely mention it casually, and in a very unsatisfactory manner. 
 Many historical documents however are said to have once existed in 
 the archives of Ioannina; but I was informed that all or greatest part 
 of these had been destroyed by Mahomet Effendi, Ali's prime minister, 
 to shew his sovereign contempt for the literature of the Franks. I paid 
 a visit to this extraordinary character for the purpose of rescuing, if 
 
 VOL. II. B 
 
2 VIEW OF THE DIFFERENT NATIONS 
 
 possible, some of these records from destruction, but he put me oft' with 
 a declaration that he had none at all in his possession : the vizir himself 
 had no better success, although he condescended to make an applica- 
 tion to the minister in my behalf. Just before we lef: Ioannina however 
 I was fortunate enough to procure a considerable r.umber of extracts 
 relating to its annals which had been copied at various times by a very 
 learned and respectable Greek gentleman, before :he originals came 
 into the possession of Mahomet : of these I shall make considerable 
 use in the latter part of the present memoir. 
 
 Before however we enter upon the particular history of this city, it 
 will be right to advert, as briefly as is consistent vith the connexion 
 Of events, to the various tribes who have acted a part upon the 
 theatre in which it is situated. In very early ages Epirus was in- 
 habited, as I have before observed, by fourteen semibarbarous nations, 
 intermingled with many Grecian colonies. North of these lay the still 
 more rude and savage Illyrians, with whom the Epirotic tribes became 
 insensibly intermingled*. They were long defended from invaders 
 not more by their own valour than by the lofty chains of moun- 
 tains that intersect their rugged country, and prevented the Greeks 
 from subduing them. In process of time the Molossi first emerged 
 from the state of surrounding barbarism : Tharyps, their patriotic 
 prince, improved both the manners and the language of this nation ; 
 Philip king of Macedonia raised them into notice by his union with 
 Olympias, sister of Alexander their sovereign, and Pyrrhus spread 
 around them the glory of martial exploits and consummate military 
 skill. Before this time however the Illyrian provinces had been 
 united, though with no very firm bond, to the Macedonian dynasty, 
 under which they remained till the defeat of Perseus : but the period 
 now approached when the Romans, those inveterate enemies of every 
 thing great, and noble, and free in all other nations, took a severe re- 
 
 ' \> apifiiKTUi ci T&Totc ra IXKvptKa iSyq, Sec. Strab. 1. yii. p. 502. 
 
WHO HAVE INHABITED EPIRUS. 3 
 
 vcnge for the invasion of Pyrrhus : after various and cruel ravages in 
 the Illyrian, iEtolian, and Macedonian wars, the whole country was laid 
 waste by the Consul iEmilius Paulus, whose fierce army in one day 
 sacked seventy cities*, sold 150,000 of the wretched inhabitants into 
 slavery, overthrew their walls, and left them in a state of ruin which at 
 this day attests the fury of those inhuman conquerors. 
 
 After this scene of destruction the Epirotic nations were governed by 
 Roman prefects, Macedonia being divided into four distinct provinces, 
 called Macedonia the First, Second, Third, and Fourth ; in which latter 
 were comprised the Illyrian tribesf. When Augustus separated the 
 provinces of the empire into Imperial, and Praetorian or Senatorial, he 
 left amongst the latter class Macedonia and Illyria, with Epirus, 
 which, conjointly with Acarnania, iEtolia, Thessaly, and the rest of 
 Grecia Propria, formed the province of Achaiaj.. Tiberius took Mace- 
 donia and Achaia into the number of Imperial provinces^, but they 
 were restored again to the senate by Claudius||. Under the reign of 
 Constantine the Great, Illyricum and Epirus were comprised in the 
 province of P.'annonia and governed by an officer with the appellation 
 of vice-prsefect^f- In the division of the empire after the death of 
 Constantine, Illyricum Macedonia and Greece, with Italy and Africa, 
 acknowledged the sovereignty of Constans his youngest son, who after- 
 
 * A.A.C. 166. 
 
 + MAKEAONIA nPflTH, AEYTEPA, TPITH, TETAPTH. I have seen many medals relating to 
 these divisions. One is in the possession of my friend Mr. Parker, on the obverse of which is a beauti- 
 ful female head with a diadem, and on the reverse a knotted club surrounded with an oak garland and 
 the legend — 
 
 HP 
 MAKEAONQN 
 nPiiTHS 
 N. 
 % Dion Cass. 1. liii. § 12. Strab. 1. xvii. sub fin. 
 § Tac. Ann. 1. i. c. 76. 
 || Dion Cass. lx. § 24. Sueton. c. 25. 
 
 i Rome and Constantinople at this time were governed by prafects, under whom vice-praefects adr 
 ministered justice in the provinces. Zosimus, 1. ii. p. 109. Pancirolus, p. 161. Cod. Justin. 1. xii. 
 tit. 56 and 57. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 VIEW OF THE DIFFERENT NATIONS 
 
 wards put his elder brother to death and seized upon the throne of 
 Constantinople : after his own murder by Magnentius, the veteran 
 general Vetranio, who had been governor of the Illyrian provinces, 
 usurped the purple. Epirus, with the rest of Greece, appears to have 
 benefited by the taste and liberality of Julian, who repaired many of 
 its cities, especially Nicopolis, where he celebrated and restored the 
 Actian games to a considerable degree of splendour. 
 
 At the elevation of Theodosius to a participation of imperial honours, 
 the prefecture of Illyricum was dismembered, whilst Thessalonica was 
 strongly fortified against the incursions of barbarians, and made the capi- 
 tal of all the Illyrian provinces. No ravages which these countries suffer- 
 ed since the days of iEmilius Paulus, are to be compared with those in- 
 flicted on them by Alaric in his invasion of Greece at the latter end 
 of the fourth century, when he retreated from Peloponnesus, after his 
 defeat by Stilicho : through the timid policy of the Byzantine court this 
 Gothic general was himself created prefect of Illyricum, from whence 
 he issued to plunder the fruitful plains of Italy. 
 
 In the middle of the fifth century, under the contemptible reign of 
 Theodosius the younger, these provinces were again afflicted by the 
 scourge of war in the hands of Attila, nor did they suffer much less 
 in the subsequent devastations committed by Genseric and his Van- 
 dals. 
 
 Near the middle of the sixth century they were laid Avaste, together 
 with the rest of the European empire, by a terrible incursion of Huns 
 or Bulgarians, so dreadful, says Gibbon, as almost to efface the memory 
 of past inroads* : these barbarians spreading from the suburbs of Con- 
 stantinople to the Ionian gulf, destroyed thirty-two cities or castles, 
 razed Potidcea to the ground, and then repassed the Danube, dragging 
 at their horses' tails 120,000 subjects of Justinian, whilst 3,000 Sclavo- 
 nians plundered with impunity the cities of Illyricum and Thrace. 
 
 * Vol. iv. p. 221. 
 
WHO HAVE INHABITED EPIRUS. .5 
 
 On the contraction of the Byzantine empire after the death of 
 Heraclius, it was divided into districts called Themes, seventeen of 
 which were included in the Asiatic, and twelve in the European part. 
 One of these was called the Macedonian Theme, another the Theme of 
 Nicopolis, comprising old Epirus and Acarnania, another of Thessalo- 
 nica,and a fourth of Dyrachium, which was the capital of those southern 
 Illyrian tribes, comprehended under the title of New Epirus or 
 Provincia Praevalitana. 
 
 Of all the barbarous nations which overran that part of the Byzan- 
 tine empire now called European Turkey, none sent forth such im- 
 mense and continual hordes as the Bulgarians. From the middle of 
 the sixth century to the fall of Constantinople in the fifteenth, this wild 
 and fierce people issuing from the vast plains of Russia, Lithuania, and 
 Poland, spread themselves over the finest provinces, sometimes being de- 
 feated with terrible slaughter, at others obtaining settlements by force 
 of arms or the weak policy of the emperors, to whom they paid a no- 
 minal subjection, or exacted tribute from his coffers according to their 
 own circumstances. They occupied very considerable districts in 
 Epirus and Ulyricum, in which country, about the latter part of the 
 ninth century they established their capital at Achris or Ochris, the 
 ancient Lychnidus, to whose ruler, named Peter, the emperor Ro- 
 manus gave the title of king, together with his grand-daughter in mar- 
 riage. This capital was in the beginning of the 10th century destroyed 
 by Basil II. surnamed the Bulgarian-Killer*. ([IxxyapoxTivos.) At the 
 sacking of the city, he found a treasure consisting of 10,000 pounds 
 weight in gold, but his cruelty left an indelible stain upon his charac- 
 ter which no valour could obliterate : he blinded 15,000 of his captives, 
 leaving a single eye alone to one out of each hundred, that he might 
 lead his companions to the presence of their sovereign : that com- 
 passionate prince is said to have died with grief at the sight, but the 
 
 * Acropolita, c. xi. 
 
6 VIEW OF THE DIFFERENT NATIONS 
 
 unfortunate victims lived to excite the spirit of revenge in a succeeding 
 generation, and bequeath it to their posterity. But though the Bul- 
 garians lost Achris they still continued in possession of other districts, 
 and by the end of the tenth century had extended themselves to the 
 most southern parts of Epirus, being masters of the city of Nicopolis*. 
 Probably at this time the Albanians were driven by these and other 
 invaders into the more inaccessible parts of the country, from whence 
 they emerged about a century after the destruction of Achris and began 
 to act a more important part upon this theatre. 
 
 Conjointly with the Bulgarians we often find the Servians mentioned 
 by the Byzantine historians as making inroads and establishments in 
 the eastern empire. These people were of a Sclavonian origin, and 
 chiefly established themselves upon the Danube, in that district which 
 still bears their name : they were governed by an hereditary monarch, 
 under the title of Cral, a Sclavonic word signifying king, and in the 
 twelfth century they are mentioned by Cantacuzene as having colonies 
 and settlements in the southern part of Macedonia, towards the borders 
 of Thessaly, where a city remains to this day, which testifies their domi- 
 nion by its appellation of Servia. Even so early as in the tenth cen- 
 tury there is reason to believe that nearly all Greece was colonised and 
 interspersed with various tribes of Sclavonian descent, who contributed 
 to alter the manners and debase the language of its people-h. Among 
 these tribes a very curious people were found, who still exist in con- 
 siderable numbers, retaining all their peculiarities of language habits 
 and customs, amidst the mountain ridges of Epirus and Macedonia. 
 These were the Vlakhi or Valachians, whose dialect, containing a large 
 intermixture of Latin words, supplies a reason for referring their origin 
 to the Roman colonies planted in Dacia and Mcesia by Trajan and his 
 
 * Cedrenus, p. 628. 
 
 ' Kat vvv hi ira.crav"Hinif>ov kch 'EXXatia a^thov niu^HKoTTOvyqiJov Kat NlaKtdoviav Scu^tu IkXapoi 
 vcjiovrac Epit. Strab. Geog. I. vii. p. 99. ed. Huds. 
 
WHO HAVE INHABITED EPIRUS. 7 
 
 successors. The original Valachians were so warlike that they fre- 
 quently endangered the very seat of empire*, but their descendants 
 are a peaceable, inoffensive race, addicted principally to pastoral occu- 
 pations. They were extirpated in the more northern districts by the 
 conquering arms of the Turks, and the remnant now found were pre- 
 served in the mountain fastnesses of the south. 
 
 It seemed as if each tempest of war that troubled Europe cast a 
 wave upon the devoted shores of this country, and that every emigratory 
 inundation left a portion of slime upon its plains. In the latter part of 
 the eleventh century Robert Guiscard and his son Bohemond led their 
 fierce adventurous Normans out of the kingdom of Apulia, in which 
 they had been firmly established, to attack the frontiers of the eastern 
 empire on the other side of the Adriatic. Their first enterprise Avas the 
 siege of Durazzo, which was bravely defended by its governor George 
 Palaeologus till the arrival of the Emperor Alexius Comnenust. This 
 enterprise not only introduces the Albanians for the first time into his- 
 torical notice, a people destined hereafter to act so conspicuous a part 
 in the annals of Epirus, but occasions the earliest mention of Ioannina, 
 the capital of their extended empire. 
 
 After an unsuccessful battle fought by Alexius under the walls of 
 Durazzo, he iled to Achris, leaving a Venetian garrison in command 
 of the citadel, and the city itself under the government of Comiscorta 
 an Albanian chieftain :\,- The victorious Robert deliberated for some 
 time whether he should press the siege, as the season was far advanced, 
 or retire into winter quarters at Glabinitza, and re-commence opera- 
 tions in the ensuing spring. A secret correspondence which he entered 
 into with one of the Venetian garrison determined him to remain, and 
 
 * They contributed chiefly, with the Bulgarian and other northern tribes, to gain the battle of Adri- 
 anople, which led to the expulsion of Baldwin from the Byzantine throne, A. D. 1205. The Vlakhi of 
 Epirus are called K«-£o-BXax<H (or lame Vlakhi) to distinguish them from the original settlers on the 
 Danube named Maioo-BXa^oi (or black Vlakhi.) 
 
 + Father of the ctlebrated Anna the historian. The siege commenced in June, A. D. 1081. 
 
 t Anna; Comn. Alex. 1. iv. sub fin. 
 

 8 EARLY HISTORY OF IOANNINA. 
 
 the city was delivered up on the 8th of February, 1082. After this 
 success he was recalled to Italy by a rebellion among his own states*, 
 and left his son Bohemond to prosecute the war. 
 
 This celebrated warrior trod in the footsteps of his victorious father. 
 According to the account of Anna Comnena he led his troops through 
 the heart of Epirus, and occupied a most important and advantageous 
 station at Ioannina, fortifying its castron or citadel -f and repairing the 
 walls, whilst he entrenched his army amongst the beautiful vineyards 
 in its vicinity. From this post he sent out parties to ravage the adja- 
 cent towns : these committed so many enormities that the emperor once 
 more collected an army with all possible expedition and marched forth 
 to give them battle. In the conflict which ensued under the walls of 
 Ioannina, and which lasted from the rising to the setting of the sun, 
 the imperial forces were totally routed, although Alexius, according 
 to the partial but very pardonable account of his filial historian, per- 
 formed prodigies of valour, standing like a vast tower opposed to the 
 raging waves of battle, remaining till his best troops and officers were 
 all cut in pieces around him, and then only flying to preserve himself 
 for better hopes and greater dangers. 
 
 The course of events hath thus brought us to the city of Ioannina: 
 we shall however have occasion to dwell for a short time only upon its 
 early annals; since no historian has left us any account of its origin, 
 or progress, or the character of its people, in those ages when human 
 beings were reduced to the lowest point of degradation and all the 
 energies of mind corrupted or destroyed by the enervating influence of 
 the Byzantine government: neither does it derive any importance 
 from its connexion with literature and the fine arts, nor claim a share 
 
 • In 1084 he marched to the relief of Pope Gregory VII. of whom he declared himself the pro- 
 tector, though he had formerly been excommunicated by that pontiff". He died in Cephalonia, July 
 17th, 1085, as he was preparing a renewal of his attack upon the eastern empire. 
 
 + That incomparable geographer Meletius says it was fortified by Michael Ducas, the sebastocrator 
 (read protostrator), uncle of the Princess Anna Comnena. 
 
CONJECTURES ON THE ORIGIN OF IOANN1NA. <t 
 
 of that partiality which we so indelibly acquire for the Grecian name, 
 Its annals are enveloped in an obscurity which I am afraid no labour 
 of research can now dissipate: its inhabitants have passed from the 
 face of the earth without leaving any traces of their existence that can 
 enable us to enjoy their triumphs or sympathize in their misfortunes, 
 and even those which an imperfect history endeavours to designate, 
 appear like shadows in the twilight, which the eye can barely distin. 
 guish from the surrounding gloom. The sole interest connected with 
 Ioannina rests, for a basis, upon the character and exploits of its pre- 
 sent ruler, who, during a series of the most eventful circumstances, has 
 raised it from the head of a small pashalic to be the capital of Old and 
 New Epirus. 
 
 Respecting the first foundation of this city nothing is certain. 
 Some refer it to the celebrated John Cantacuzene, others to Michael 
 Ducas and an unknown despot Thomas*, others again to an equally 
 unidentified despot John : but many things seem to denote that its 
 foundation took place long before the title of despot was given to the 
 ruler of a province : nor can it be surprising that the security of its 
 site, the fertility of its plains, the advantage of its spacious and mag- 
 nificent lake, the barriers of its mountain ridges, should attract the eye 
 of the citizen and the soldier, both as an agreeable residence and an 
 impregnable fortress. There can be no doubt but that it was occupied 
 in very early ages of the Byzantine empire. From Anna Comnena, who 
 first makes mention of it in the eleventh century, we find that its castron 
 or citadel was then dilapidated and repaired by the gallant Bohemond : 
 many centuries therefore had probably elapsed before this dilapidation 
 took place, through neglect and confidence ; for the very silence of his- 
 tory concerning it affords presumptive evidence that its commanding 
 
 * This opinion seems to have arisen from a monumental inscription discovered in digging lor the 
 foundations of a house n Ioannina, which signifies HERE LIES DUKE THOMAS, COVER- 
 NOUR OF IOANNINA, This Mr. Jones saw, but I did not: it however proves nothing with re- 
 gard to the foundation of the city. 
 
 VOL. II. C 
 
10 
 
 CONJECTURES ON THE ORIGIN OF IOANNINA. 
 
 situation imposed awe and respect upon invaders. A minute inspec- 
 tion of some ancient ruins still remaining in the castron inclined me 
 to refer the original edifice to the age of Justinian, who, as we learn, 
 from Procopius, erected innumerable castles and fortresses throughout 
 all parts of his dominions, particularly in Epirus and Macedonia*: 
 the style of building too very accurately coincides with other edifices 
 attributed to that emperor, especially with one at Konizza, situated at 
 the distance of one day and a half from Ioannina. What light may 
 be thrown upon the matter by the following inscription, -which I 
 copied at the mosque of the serai, which stands upon the site of an 
 ancient church, is left to the decision of those who are better ac- 
 quainted with palaeography than myself-f-. 
 
 fOV 
 
 BUOG \^&¥Ah&66KCZMJl<> 
 
 s-*'Ato&»- 
 
 izwrnmenn 
 
 [H ffl ^TtoSIAWXAftjKfc' 
 
 * He is mentioned by this author as S\i)v 71/v EXUJa irtpifiukwv role 6\vpwfiatrf he gives lists of 
 the forts built and repaired, of which those in Old and New Epirus alone amounted to 44 built, 
 and 50 repaired. De iEdif. 1. iv. c. 1. firw avi'e^rj rh ipifiara tv to'iq %wpioif cnrtpyaaaiiivoq, 
 w« aypog tia^oc V <l>p»pwi> airoTf.ropvEVTm, y\ T<j> Tiiyj.anivii> TrporroiKos kiv, EirtiuSa rt Kat iv 'Hxt'ipu rfj 
 re viq nai rrj itaXaiq. KaKafiivn. Lib. iv. c. 2. 
 
 + The name, which is always written in the plural number ra 'luavviva, leads us to suppose that its 
 immediate founder was some person of the name of 'Iwavvrjc, or John : otherwise we might suspect, 
 connecting other circumstances with it, that its appellation was derived from Ioannina, the daughter 
 and sole heiress of the Great Belisarius, who was forcibly married to Anastasius, who is called the 
 grandson (^uyarpi^c) of the Empress Theodora. (Procop. Hist. Arcan. c. iv. v.) Gibbon would 
 
ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. ] 1 
 
 From the time of the Norman invasion, Ioannina seems to have 
 been totally unnoticed by historians till the capture of" Constantinople 
 by the Franks, and the consequent foundation of the great despotate 
 of Epirus, or of the West, as it is sometimes called, by Michael An- 
 gelus, a bastard son of John the Sebastocrator. This Michael had 
 married a daughter of the governor of Durazzo, which gave him such 
 an interest in the western provinces, that he quickly subdued and 
 united under his sway Epirus, Acarnania, and iEtolia, with the strong 
 cities of Ioannina, Arta, and Naupactus*. Michael having sent for 
 his brother Theodore, who resided at the court of Lascaris in Nicaea, 
 and declared him his successor in the despotate, was soon afterwards 
 murdered in his bed, together with his wife, by one of his own domes- 
 tics named Romaeus. 
 
 Theodore augmented his possessions by conquest, subduing not only 
 Thessaly but the Bulgarian district of Achris, Albanon, or Albanopo- 
 lis, and many other strong places in that vicinity f: he defeated and 
 took prisoner Peter of Courtenay, the newly-crowned Emperor of 
 Constantinople, in the strong defiles of the Albanian mountains be- 
 tween the territories of Durazzo and Thessalonicalj". ; and from the 
 dark expressions of Acropolita the historian, I agree with Gibbon in 
 supposing that he put him treacherously to death : having afterwards 
 conquered Demetrius son of the Marquis Bonifaccio, and taken pos- 
 
 translale the word -?uyarpt?ac a nephew, contrary to its meaning, which signifies a grandson by the 
 daughter's side ; and the historian in the very next chapter calls this Anastasius Tov Otociwpae 
 enyovov. 
 
 * 'lhxxvvlvwv yap i'ip\c teat " AprrjQ kcu jut'^pi NawTrdiTB. Acropolitae Hist. c. viii. Nicet. Ann. Bal- 
 duin. c. ix. p. 410. See also Du Cange Fam. Aug. Byzant p. 208. Ioannina and Arta are mentioned 
 as the two principal cities of this despotate, in an anonymous poem written about the year 1300, 
 quoted by Colonel Leake in his Researches, p. 166. 
 
 'llrov av$iVTT)Q r?je BXo^tac teat o\»)c "7c 'EA\a£o£, 
 T);s "Aprrjs Kat tu>v 'luawtVuv Kai oKa rS AfirirorciTB. 
 
 r Acropolita, c. xiv. 
 
 X 'Ec TaiQ to AXpava SvcrxwpiaiQ. Acropol. c. xiv. 
 
 c 2 
 
12 ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. 
 
 session of Thessalonica, Theodore caused himself to be crowned em- 
 peror in that city by Demetrius Archbishop of Achris, on the refusal 
 of Constantine Metropolitan of Thessalonica*. 
 
 When Theodore assumed this empire it would seem that he left the 
 despotate of Epirus to Michael Angelus, son of Michael Angelus No- 
 thus, who was confirmed in his title by the Emperor Vataees. He 
 was a very warlike prince, valiantly opposing and retaking many 
 possessions from the great Manuel Palaeologus, who recovered the By- 
 zantine throne from the usurpation of the Latins. At his death he left 
 his Epirotic and iEtolian dominions to his son Nicephorus Angelus, 
 surnamed Ducas, together with the islands of Corcyra, Cephalonia and 
 Ithacaf . Du Cange seems to be in error respecting the death of Ni- 
 cephorus, which, according to him, took place A. D. 1288; whereas 
 he is described by Cantacuzene as taking an active part in the iEtolian 
 Avars during the reign of Andronicus junior, who was not crowned till 
 the year 1325 if.. 
 
 His son Thomas, by Anna Palaeogina, succeeded him in the despo- 
 tate of Epirus, being confirmed in its possession by Andronicus the 
 eider, whose grand-daughter he married. He was slain by John 
 Count of Zante and Cephalonia, who invaded his dominions and mar- 
 ried his widow. 
 
 After the death of the Emperor Andronicus junior, and during the 
 commotions that ensued upon the usurpation of the Imperial throne 
 
 * After this he conquered many cities of Thrace, among which was Adrianople, and advanced even 
 to the suburbs of Constantinople itself. He was diverted from his conquests by a rupture with his ally 
 Azan king of the Bulgarians, by whom he was defeated in battle, taken prisoner, and deprived of his 
 sight. Being afterwards liberated (vid. Acropol. c. 38) he recovered the kingdom of Thessalonica from 
 his brother Manuel, who had usurped it in his absence, and transferred the title of emperor to his son 
 John, retaining for himself that of despot, with the secret management of affairs. This John however 
 was obliged by the Emperor Vataces to lay aside his imperial title, though he was allowed to retain 
 that of despot together with his government. His piety and virtues are much eulogized by the histo- 
 rian Acropolita. He died A. D. 1224. 
 
 + Niceph. Gregoras, 1. iv. pp. 79. 93. 
 
 J Cantacuzene also makes him son of the despot John, so it is possible there may have been two cf 
 this name. 
 
ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. IS 
 
 by Jolin Cantacuzene, Stephen Duscian, cral or prince of Servia, over- 
 ran Macedonia, Thessaly, and Epirus, assumed the title of Emperor of 
 the Romans, and instituted an order of knighthood with all the dignita- 
 ries of a Byzantine court. He united the districts of Ioannina, Triccala, 
 and Larissa under the command of one of his satraps, called Prelupus, 
 constituting liis brother Simon, or Sinissa, as he is sometimes called, 
 despot of iEtolia and Acarnania. After the death of Stephen, this 
 Simon contended with his son, the Cral of Servia, named Uresis, or 
 U rosins, for the throne, at which time, Prelupus also being dead, 
 Nicephorus* took this opportunity of regaining greatest part of the 
 despotate of the west, forcing Simon to fix his residence at Castoria 
 in Macedonia: from thence however he returned upon the death 
 of Nicephorus, who was slain in a battle with the Albanians near the 
 source of the Achelousf, that people having now become very power- 
 ful, and extended themselves over the greatest part of EpirusJ. 
 
 Simon, upon these tidings, returned into that part of his former 
 territory, which was called Grecian Vlakia, of which Triccala was 
 the capital : in this city he fixed his wife Thomais, and proceeded 
 himself against iEtolia, which received him submissively, as also did 
 Arta and Ioannina. From these successes he was soon called away 
 by the insurrection of a Servian chief named Clapenus, who had 
 married the widow of Prelupus and taken up his residence in Berrhcea; 
 from thence he made incursions upon the possessions of Simon, insti- 
 gated in all probability by his wife ; for his enmity was soon appeased 
 when Simon gave his daughter, the beautiful and accomplished Ange- 
 lina, to Thomas, her son by Prelupus. 
 
 * Cantacuzene calls this Nicephorus a son o,f John Duke of Acarnania, whose death he mentions 
 lib. ii. c 32. 
 
 + So I lake the expression of Cantacuzene, who says the battle took place irtp< n ^uplov 'A^ckdov 
 npoaayopevofiirov L. iv. c. 43. He employed some Asiatic Turkish auxiliaries in this engage- 
 ment. 
 
 X Cantacuz. Hist, passim. 
 
14 ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. 
 
 Simon now confined his attention chiefly to the affairs of Vlachia, 
 being unable to resist the arms of the Albanians*, who took possession 
 of iEtolia and Acarnania, which were divided into two districts, under 
 command of the chieftains Ghinos Buias and Peter Leoses. Ioannina 
 however resisted all their attempts to subdue it, and its spirited 
 citizens being reduced to great straits, sent a deputation to Simon, im- 
 ploring his assistance. But in avoiding a lesser evil they unfortu- 
 nately fell into a greater! Simon, with the forces for their protection, 
 sent back also as their governor, his son-in-law Thomas, whom my 
 MS. designates by the gentle titles of, an imp of darkness, and a son of 
 Satan. With his princess Angelina, he made a triumphant entry into 
 Ioannina amidst the acclamations of the populace ; he conducted him- 
 self for a short time with candour and moderation, but soon threw off 
 the mask, and appeared in all his native depravity. 
 
 The fust attack made by this tyrant was upon the church and its 
 treasures, which he pillaged to enrich his Servian followers, driving 
 the excellent bishop, Sebastian, into exile, and turning the cathedral, 
 after he had stripped it of its ornaments, into granaries and store- 
 houses. He next raised his hand against the principal ami wealthiest. 
 of the inhabitants, confiscating their estates, and driving into exile, 
 without mercy, all except a few, who, by the basest compliances and 
 vilest flattery ingratiated themselves into his favour. Amongst, 
 these unworthy citizens are particularized one Bardinus, governor of 
 San. Donatotj and John Capsocavades, who commanded in Rako- 
 vitza ; these men were his chief counsellors in iniquity and his asso- 
 ciates in debauchery. Amidst the tyrannical acts of this monster, 
 which became so great that even his own Servians deserted the city, 
 none excited greater horror than that which he committed against 
 
 * Not long before this time they had greatly annoyed the imperial possessions and fortresses in the 
 lilyrian provinces, but had been severely chastised for their audacity by Audronicus jun. assisted by 
 a formidable auxiliary force of Asiatic Turks. Cantacuz. 1. ii. c. 32. 
 
 t A place iu the neighbourhood of Paramithia. 
 
ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. |j 
 
 Elias Clauses, one of the best and richest of the citizens, whom 
 he compelled to reveal his treasures by unheard-of cruelties, making 
 him drink water mingled with ashes, and burning his naked body with 
 torches and brimstone, till he expired under the torment. 
 
 During the government of this wretch in the year 1368, a terrible 
 pestilence invaded Ioannina, and swept off great numbers of inha- 
 bitants : at its conclusion he forced all the rich widows who survived, 
 to marry his despicable companions, and appropriated to his own 
 use the property of the orphans. Whilst the unfortunate city was 
 reduced to a state of misery by the oppressive laws, taxation, mono- 
 polies, and other burthens of its domestic tyrant, it was exposed to tin- 
 greatest external calamities by an Albanian invasion, under Peter 
 Leoses, who was; induced to retire by receiving great bribes, and the 
 hand of Irene, Thomas's daughter, in marriage. During the five 
 succeeding years, in which the city was free from all incursions of the 
 Albanians, tlhe depravity of its governor continued to increase. 
 
 In the m«ean time a second pestilence broke out in these parts, 
 raging with particular violence in Ioannina and Arta. At the latter 
 place Leo§g§s himself fell a victim to it; after whose death a very 
 celebrated chieftain } named Spatas, usurped the sovereignty, and 
 joined together under his now formidable dominion, the two Alba- 
 nian principalities of iEtolia and Acarnania. This warrior came up 
 against Ioannina soon after its sufferings by the plague, and was only 
 diverted from sacking the city by receiving Helen, the tyrant's sister, 
 in marriage, with a regal dowry. 
 
 The despot, liberated from this last and most pressing danger, sunk 
 deeper and deeper in iniquity, giving himself up to the guidance of 
 a most abandoned miscreant named Michael Apsaras, who not only 
 led him into the commission of the most enormous and unnatural 
 vices, but alienated his affections from his wife Angelina, a woman 
 who, to great beauty, added the most angelic disposition, and who 
 
16 ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. 
 
 had hitherto been able to afford protection to many suppliants against 
 the tyranny and brutality of her husband*. 
 
 In the year 1378 the Albanians of Malacassif under Ghino Frati 
 made an irruption into the territories of Ioannina during the season of 
 vintage, but were defeated and lost a great number in killed and 
 prisoners. In the month of February the following year, a tower of the 
 castron was betrayed by one Nicephorus a native of PerainasJ, to 200 
 Albanians, who next morning were joined by a large body of their 
 countrymen from the island of the lake, with Valachians and Bulga- 
 rians mixed, when the whole castron, with its principal gula or citadel, 
 fell into their hands. During three days the most terrible commotions 
 ensued, and a general assault was prepared against the city by the Al- 
 banians in the fortress and their allies in the island. From this danger 
 the citizens were delivered by the interposition of Michael the arch- 
 angel, who appeared at the head of their armament with his flaming 
 sword, and still continues to be the patron of the city. The expedi- 
 tion from the island being thus met and defeated, the Albanians in the 
 castron surrendered at discretion, all of whom were put to death 
 except a certain number who were sent back as a warning to their 
 countrymen, with the loss of eyes, ears and noses : from this massacre 
 Thomas took the surname of the Albanian-killer ('Ax|3aK»cToi«>?)§. 
 
 In the ensuing month of May Spatas took revenge for these enor- 
 mities by laying waste the vineyards and corn-fields in the vicinity of 
 Ioannina, in spite of the mean vengeance of Thomas, who hung up 
 before the city walls all the Albanians that fell into his power, or sent 
 
 * She is styled in my Ioannina MS. "H rw uvtk \pvaii rat ivaefit^drri flaaiXiaaa. 
 
 + A large town of the Pindus about ten miles beyond Mezzovo. 
 
 X A village at the north end of the lake. 
 
 % The Albanians became very formidable in the fourteenth century, at the latter end of which two of 
 their chiefs shone very conspicuously, Balza in the north and Spatas in the south. Chalcocondyl. 1. iv. 
 p. Ill : they gained possession of many strong holds and cities in Illyricum, Macedonia, Epirus, The? 
 saly, jEtolia, and Acarnania. Chalcocond. ibid. 
 
ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. 17 
 
 them mutilated into the enemy's camp. Nor did his cruelty towards 
 his own subjects cease : in this very year he put to death Elias, the 
 venerable Bishop of Mezzovo, at the instance of his confidant Apsaras, 
 cut alive into small pieces Theochores an excellent citizen, and dragged 
 another, named Gastiziotes, to death at a horse's tail : many lost 
 their eyes or were kept in miserable dungeons till they discovered their 
 riches to the tyrant. In the year 1380 he fortified various strong castles 
 of his own district*, called in the assistance of the Turks, and carrying 
 fire and sword into the territories of Malacassi and its vicinity in- 
 flicted the most horrid cruelties upon the victims who fell into his 
 hands. In 1382 he repeated these incursions with the assistance of the 
 same allies, conquered the cities of Velas, Drynopolis, Bagenetia, and 
 Catuna : he repelled also an incursion of Spatas, who came to demand 
 his wife's dowry which had not all been paid. 
 
 In the saime year this apostate, by which title he is chiefly designated, 
 received the; title of despot from the Emperor Manuel, son of John 
 Palaeologus ; a nd his associate on the throne. 
 
 In the yeJar 1S85 the Turks made an incursion against Arta and car- 
 ried away miany Christian captives. Spatas on this occasion dispatched 
 Matthew Airchbishop of Ioannina, who happened to be in Arta, to 
 request the assistance of Thomas against these fierce invaders : this was 
 refused, and the poor archbishop banished for his interference. At 
 length his eniormities became so revolting that four of his own body-guard 
 conspired to» rid the world of such a monster, and effected their design 
 by stabbing him in his bed on the night of December 20, 1385. 
 
 This wretch having been buried with the obsequies due to royalty-}-, 
 his widow Angelina in the month of January 1386, to the great joy of 
 her subjects espoused Izaus Count of Cephalonia, an excellent and 
 virtuous prince : amongst his first acts was the recall of the archbishop 
 
 * Amongst these are mentioned Boursina, Critzounista, Dragomi, Velchista and Rakovitza. 
 
 + In all probability it is his sepulchre to which the monumental inscription mentioned in p. 9, refers. 
 
 VOL. IT. D 
 
18 ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. 
 
 from exile, the restoration of the dilapidated walls and revenue of the 
 churches, the destruction of those horrid dungeons in which the late 
 tyrant confined his wretched prisoners, and the punishment of his vile 
 counsellors, the infamous Apsaras being deprived of his eyes and 
 banished with all his family from the realm. After this he protected 
 his country from the depredations of Albanian marauders, many of 
 whom he subjected by his arms, and conciliated others by treaties 
 which were faithfully observed. His good character procured for him 
 the approbation of the Byzantine court and the regal title, the cere- 
 mony of his coronation being performed in the cathedral by the arch- 
 bishop and two of his suffragans, the Bishops of Velas and Dryno- 
 polis. 
 
 In the year 1387 the good Archbishop Matthew died, and was suc- 
 ceeded by Gabriel prior of the ancient convent called the Archiman- 
 dreion; its tower was this same year struck by lightning, and falling 
 down crushed fourteen persons to atoms under the ruins. 
 
 Izaus entering into alliance with the rulers of Vlakia and Thessalo- 
 nica, governed his states in peace and tranquillity till the year 1395, 
 when he had the misfortune to lose his wife Angelina, whose remains 
 were followed to the grave by a vast concourse of citizens uttering the 
 most unfeigned accents of grief and lamentation. In 1397, at the instiga- 
 tion of his council, he espoused Irene, the daughter of his old antagonist 
 Spatas, a woman of great beauty and talent : soon after his nuptials he 
 lent his assistance to his Albanian father-in-law against an invasion of 
 the Turks, who were defeated in a bloody battle near Drisco. In the 
 following year Izaus having collected a large force marched against a 
 powerful chieftain of Albania named Ghioni Zenevisi, in the province of 
 Lower Dibra : by him he was defeated and taken prisoner. The news 
 of his captivity being carried to Florence, where he had relations of 
 high rank, they, with the assistance of the Venetian government at 
 Corfu, procured his release by a ransom of 10,000 florins, which was 
 paid at the city of Argyro-Castro, whither Izaus was brought and Jibe- 
 
ITS HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES. ig 
 
 rated : from thence in company with his brother Sghurus, he passed 
 over to Corfu, Santa Maura, and Arta, where he was kindly received 
 by Spatas and conducted to Ioannina, in which city he died peaceably 
 on the 2.9th of April, 1401. 
 
 So-hurus succeeded by will to the dominions of his brother, and at the 
 death of Spatas to the government of Arta. Against him came up a cele- 
 brated chieftain named Bonghoes, heading a large army of Servians, Al- 
 banians, Bulgarians, and Valachians* who drove Sghurus from his do- 
 minions, laid waste the country, burned whole towns and villages, and 
 massacred the inhabitants by thousands ; so that the MS. concludes 
 this part of its history with a pathetic exclamation of Acarnania weep- 
 ing for her children and refusing comfort because they are not-f-. Ac- 
 cording to my documents this Sghurus was the last Christian prince 
 who reigned at IoanninaJ, which was thenceforth governed by an aris- 
 tocracy. In the year 1432, the inhabitants, alarmed by the extensive 
 conquests of Murat or Amurath II. in Greece and Macedonia, sent 
 out a detachment of their best troops to guard the passes of Mount 
 Pindus, who cut to pieces all the Turks that were opposed to them. 
 Oil this occasion the sultan sent the following epistle to the city : 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " Sultan Murat Sovereign of the East and West, to the People of Ioan- 
 nina, greeting : 
 
 " I counsel you to deliver up to me with good will your fortress, and 
 to receive me as your sovereign, lest you should move me to great 
 
 * At least this seems implied by the surname given by the MS. to this leader, who is styled Mwoy- 
 yd>;e o 2epfioa\ftavofiu\yapol3\a , )(OS. 
 
 + This expulsion of Sghurus did not take place till after the year 1413, if he be the same governor 
 who is mentioned by the historian Ducas as having sent, as well as some other states, an envoy to con- 
 gratulate Mahomet I. on his restoration to the throne of Adrianople. Dues Hist. Byz. c. xx- 
 
 % Phranza however makes mention of a despot Charles who disd at Ioanniaa A, D. 1430, jmst before 
 it fell into the possession of the Turks. 
 
 D 2 
 
80 ITS CAPTURE BY THE TURKS. 
 
 wrath, and I should come up against you with ray army and take your 
 city with the sword : then you will suffer all the calamities that other 
 places have suffered, which refusing to acknowledge my power, have 
 been conquered by my arms ; whose inhabitants have been sold into 
 slavery through the East and through the West, Come then, let us 
 make a treaty and ratify it with an oath, I on my part that I will re- 
 spect your rights, and you on yours that you will obey me faithfully." 
 
 Upon receipt of this letter the principal inhabitants of loannina took 
 counsel together, and fearing to bring down upon themselves the re- 
 sentment of so powerful a prince sent an embassy to Thessalonica, 
 where he then resided, who delivered the keys of their fortress into his 
 hands*. On their return he sent back with them a Turkish garrison 
 who took possession of the castron with great rejoicings, but soon 
 shewed their enmity against the Christian faith by razing to the ground 
 the ancient church of St. Michael near the great gula or tower. 
 
 In a short lapse of time these Mahometans built houses in that part 
 of the city which is now called Turcopalco, and wishing to domiciliate 
 here, obtained the Sultan's permission to take for themselves wives 
 among the daughters of the Greeks. Despairing, however, of success 
 with the ladies, they devised the following scheme to effect their 
 purpose. 
 
 Watching the opportunity of a great festival at which the Greek 
 families attended divine service in the cathedral, they armed them- 
 selves secretly, and waited at the doors of the church till the congrega- 
 tion came out; then, each person seizing upon the damsel that pleased 
 him best, carried her off in defiance of her relatives and friends. The 
 parents, after a short time, seeing no remedy for the evil, consented to 
 the nuptials, and gave the customary dowry to the husbands. 
 
 * Phranza, however reports, that the city was taken by Sinan, general of Murat, in 1431, 1. ii. c. 9. 
 Chalcocondilas gives a different account, and says, that it was at this time under the government of 
 Charles, who was called Duke or Prince of loannina, a city at that time Considered the most important 
 in Greece, next to Thessalonica. Chalcocond. 1. v. p. 126. 
 
STORY OF DIONYSIUS THE SKELOSOPHIST. 21 
 
 After this event the Mahometan population of course increased ; 
 but, the Greeks still retained possession of the city or castron, though 
 not of the gula or citadel, paying a very moderate tribute and being 
 free from many vexations to which other cities under the Turkish do- 
 minion were subject. At length, in the year 1611, the evil star of the 
 Greeks gained the ascendancy and brought upon them such a train of 
 calamities that my MS. can trace them to no other cause but the per- 
 sonal interference of the arch-fiend himself. Their immediate author, 
 or satanic instrument, was Dionysius*, called the Dog-sophist (ixn- 
 *6<ro<po<;) a fit vessel of evil, who had been ejected from his bishopric of 
 Triccala for practising the arts of astrology and necromancy. This per- 
 sonage had the misfortune to dream a dream, in which he saw the Sul- 
 tan himself rise up in his presence to receive him ; and hence conjectured 
 that he was fated by the stars to deliver his country from the Ottoman 
 yoke. Full of this chimerical project, he roamed about the country, 
 with a wallet behind his back and a large flaggon of wine slung by his 
 side, gaining proselytes to his opinion and adherents to his cause. In 
 the course of these wanderings he arrived at the monastery of San De- 
 metrio in the vicinity of Delvinaki, at the distance of about ten hours 
 from Ioannina : understanding that the Turks were less numerous in 
 this city than elsewhere, and that they dwelt for the most part outside 
 the fortress, he determined to make this the scene of his first operations. 
 Having by his pretended skill in astrology and predictions of the fall 
 of the Byzantine empire, as well as by the application of money, collected 
 together a large crowd of followers, he led them by night against the 
 city of Ioannina, which they entered singing the Kyrie Eleison ; there 
 they put to death about a hundred Mahometans, and burned several 
 houses, Asuman Pasha the governor, escaping with great difficulty by a 
 secret passage into the citadel. 
 
 * The MS. by a play upon (he word, calls him Aaifiovvtrwr. 
 
32 STORY OF DIONYSIUS THE SKELOSOPHIST. 
 
 This infatuated mob soon turned their hands to plunder, and became 
 inebriated by the contents of the wine casks which they broke open : 
 this gave the Turks an opportunity to rally, and make a charge upon 
 the rebels, when they slew a great multitude and took many prisoners, 
 whom they reserved for the most exquisite tortures. Dionysius in the 
 tumult escaped, and hid himself in a deep cavern under the north-east 
 precipice of the castron, which is to this day called the cave of the 
 Skelosophist. 
 
 Here he eluded for a considerable time the diligent search that was 
 made for him by the Turks, being supplied with bread by a baker, who 
 was acquainted with his place of concealment : he was at last dis- 
 covered by some Jews of the fortress, and delivered up to his enemies. 
 By them this arch-rebel was Hayed alive, and his skin stuifed with 
 straw, sent to Constantinople, and carried into the Seraglio : there it is 
 said, that the Sultan having heard of the singular character of the man, 
 rose up from his divan to view the spectacle, and fulfilled the pre- 
 dictions of the astrologer. 
 
 After this rebellion Ioannina was treated by the Turks like all other 
 conquered cities. The principal conspirators, together with many in- 
 nocent persons, were subjected to extreme punishments, some being 
 impaled, others sawn asunder, and many burnt alive: every Greek 
 church within the castron was then razed to the ground, from which 
 place all Christians were banished for ever by a special firman of the 
 Sultan ; but the Jews were allowed to retain their habitations, and re- 
 ceived various immunities in consequence of the assistance they had 
 rendered to the Mahometans*. 
 
 This expulsion of the Greeks from the castron tended greatly to 
 
 * This accounts for the residence of great numbers of Jews here in the present day, and the total ex- 
 clusion of the Greeks. I find this sedition of Dionysius alluded to in Knolles's History of the Turks, 
 p. 1308. It happened in the reign of Achmet the eighth emperor of Constantinople. The stuffing of the 
 Bishop is also mentioned, but he is there styled a patriarch : it is also added, that the co-operation of 
 some Maltese knights, Neapolitans and Spaniards was expected. Here the Ioannina MS. ends: the 
 rest is collected entirely from the accoucts of living persons, or from my own observation. 
 
PRESENT CONDITION OF IOANNINA. gg 
 
 increase the city, which soon began to extend its arms along the banks 
 of the lake. It seems to have enjoyed a considerable degree of tran- 
 quillity amidst the convulsions that agitated this part of the world 
 during the last efforts made by the Christian powers to preserve 
 some portion of European Turkey from the overwhelming force of its 
 Ottoman invaders. It was governed by beys, and pashas of two tails, 
 sent by the Porte, but never became the head or capital of a sandgiac 
 till the time of its present sovereign*. His experienced eye soon saw 
 the advantages of its strong central situation, and from the first he de- 
 termined to make it the focus of his extended dominion. Under him 
 it has risen to that degree of splendour, importance, and population 
 which it now possesses. The number of inhabitants is computed, ac- 
 cording to the best calculations that can be made, at forty thousand : 
 since the insulation of the castron and the fortification of Litaritza, it 
 maybe saiid to have two citadels, three palaces, besides a vast number 
 of small se:rais, eighteen mosques,and six Greek churches. There are also 
 three tekets or Turkish monasteries, and two Jewish synagogues within 
 the castro in . The hospital, which was founded through the exertions 
 of Signore Nicolo's father, is capable of receiving 150 patients, who are 
 comfortablly lodged and attended by a surgeon, a chaplain, and regular 
 nurses : an annual governor is appointed who inspects the accounts 
 and superintends the whole concern. The public prison is a dreadful 
 place, sufficient to make the stoutest person's heart sink within him. 
 A procuratore attends there daily to administer food and raiment to 
 the wretched prisoners, many of whom would otherwise inevitably perish 
 with hunger and cold : to the credit of the Greek inhabitants they make 
 no distinction in this distribution between Christian, Jew, or Mahometan. 
 Ioannina contains two schools in which the ancient languages are 
 taught. The first was founded about one hundred and thirty years ago by 
 
 * This pashalic is divided into four districts or provinces called Palaio-Pogogianni, Zagori, Kurren- 
 das, and Grevena. 
 
34 ITS PUBLIC SCHOOLS, &c. 
 
 one Ghioni, a merchant of this city, who had acquired a large fortune 
 by commercial speculations in Valachia. He placed the funds for the 
 support of this foundation in the bank of Venice, which being confis- 
 cated when the French took possession of that republic, ihe school has 
 since been supported by the genuine liberality of an excellent family 
 named Zosimas, long settled in Russia, Poland and Austria, and who 
 being free from the oppression of despotic power, and enlightened by an 
 intermixture with more civilized nations, seek, in their enthusiastic love 
 for their native country, to pour the treasures of literature into her 
 bosom ; and as they are unable to assist her degraded sons by arms, 
 aim at supplying them with the more sure, though slow remedies of 
 knowledge*. About 300 scholars are taught in this seminary, at the 
 head of which is Signore Balano, a most venerable man and excellent 
 scholar: his long white beard descending to his waist, with his mild, 
 amiable manners, brings forcibly to the mind a picture of an ancient 
 philosopher f. At the school over which Signore Psalida presides, 
 about one hundred boys are educated : it was founded only thirty 
 years ago by a rich merchant named Picrozoe, born at Grame- 
 nou, a smali viiiage in the vicinity of Ioannina. To both these semi- 
 naries are attached excellent libraries : that of Psalida's possesses also a 
 pair of fine globes, and some good astronomical instruments. A 
 system of teaching, partly similar to that instituted by Dr. Bell, has 
 been long established in this place. The Turks do not give themselves 
 
 * These benevolent brothers have deposited a large sum for this purpose in the bank of Moscow : 
 by their exertions and munificence a vast number of Romaic books are constantly published and dis- 
 tributed over Greece, with grammars and elementary treatises; they afford assistance for any promising 
 literary publication, and supply many young men of talent with the means of travelling for improvement, 
 or studying at foreign universities. I believe that excellent patriot and accomplished scholar Korai, who 
 is using every exertion to clear his native language from the corruptions of the mixobarous style into 
 which it had fallen, owes his fir«t patronage to the benevolence of the Zosimades. 
 
 + The geographer Miletius, a native of Toannina, and afterwards archbishop of Athens, was master 
 of this school, as also was the celebrated Engenitis of Corfu, who translated the ^Eneid into Greek hexa- 
 meters. Signore Balano has published a Treatise on Algebra and Arithmetic. His father and his 
 brother were both masters of the school before him. The principal Greek schools ia Turkey besides 
 these of Ioannina are at Constantinople, Smyrna, Buckarest, Kidhonies, Salonica, Milie; on Mount 
 Pelion, Mount Athos, Athens, Chios and Patmos. Venice and Vienna are the chief marts for books. 
 
 2 
 
ITS COMMERCE. $S 
 
 much trouble about the education of their children : a man amongst 
 them who is able to write, is looked on as a being of a superior order, 
 and assumes vast importance by carrying a calamboio, or silver ink- 
 stand, as the sign of his mystery, stuck in his girdle. Still there are 
 two laro-e buildings in loannina appropriated to this purpose, and to 
 every mosque a small room is attached, in which children are taught 
 to read the Koran. The Greek churches of loannina are in general 
 large and ornamented with much gilding : they form a striking con- 
 trast with the Turkish mosques, which are singularly plain. As the 
 vizir cares very little about any religion, he is extremely tolerant of all, 
 and in no part of Turkey are the Greeks allowed so many privileges : 
 that which they seem to value most, is the power of calling together 
 their congregations by a bell : the Mahometans disdain to do this 
 by any other sound than that of the human voice ; and certainly the 
 sonorous tones of their muzzeins issuing from the light galleries of the 
 airy minarets, wafted over all the city at the hours of prayer, produce 
 an extraordinary and sublime effect. 
 
 The chief commerce of loannina is carried on with Constantinople, 
 Russia, Venice, and Malta. From the first it procures shawls, tur- 
 bans, amber, and a variety of toys ; from the second oxen, horses, 
 skins, and ermine; from Venice come rich velvets, red skull-caps, and 
 many articles of hardware; from Malta various English manufactures 
 and colonial produce : many houses of loannina have a partner, or 
 some connexion, established in these places. Every article pays an 
 ad valorem duty at the Dogana of four per cent. The chief exports 
 sent in exchange are, cotton from the plains of Triccala, Zeitun, and 
 Livadia, raw silk from Thessaly, Lepanto, and Salona, Valonean bark 
 from Acarnania, prepared goat and sheep skins, and sometimes, 
 though not very frequently, grain. Great profit accrues to the mer- 
 chants of loannina from the distribution of their imports over the 
 smaller towns and villages of Epirus : their domestic manufactures are 
 not numerous : indeed here, as in other countries, the state of manu- 
 
 VOL. II. e 
 
$6 PRODUCE OF THE SOIL— FOOD OF THE INHABITANTS. 
 
 factures is a fair criterion of the state of civilization : whilst the work- 
 manship of all articles that may conduce to general comfort, conve- 
 nience, and utility, or to the interests of philosophy and science, is 
 quite contemptible, great industry and considerable skill is exhibited 
 in the embroidery of cloth, in filagree, in working silver handles for 
 pistols, muskets, and ataghans, and in ornamenting pipe-heads. 
 
 The soil around loannina yields grain of most kinds, viz. wheat, 
 barley, arabositi, calamboci, beans and peas : its fruits are grapes, 
 figs, peaches, apricots, plums, almonds, cherries, quinces, oranges, 
 lemons, pears and apples; great abundance of the latter are imported 
 from the district of Zagori, on the other side the lake, and conveyed 
 in boats across the water*: hemp and very fine tobacco is also grown 
 in certain spots. The town is plentifully supplied with fish and wild- 
 fowl from the lake, and the surrounding plains and mountains furnish 
 abundance of game : hares, however, owing to a particular super- 
 stition, are never eaten either by Turks or Greeks. Very little 
 animal food is consumed here comparatively, as in other Grecian 
 cities. The diet of all ranks is rather spare and simple : oil enters 
 into almost every article of culinary composition, and is relished 
 the better for a slight taint or haut-gout. Botargo, which is the roe 
 of the red or grey mullet, and caviar, which is that of the stur- 
 geon, imported from the Black Sea, form a very favourite diet, espe- 
 cially during the season of religious fasts. Cow's milk is never used for 
 diet ; only that of sheep and goats, from which also a cheese is 
 made which is very pungent and disagreeable to the taste. Ducks 
 and geese are scarce, but fowls and turkeys very plentiful: turtle-doves 
 are also plentiful and much esteemed, as also beccaficos at the proper 
 season of the year : the wine used at table is less impregnated with 
 
 * Epirus was celebrated in ancient times for fine apples, called orbiculata. " Orbiculata ex figura 
 orbis in rotunditatem circumacti : haec in Epiro primum provenisse arguinento sunt Grseci qui Epirotica- 
 TOeant." Plin. N. Hist. 1. xv. c. 14. 
 
CLIMATE-DISEASES. 27 
 
 resin than in other parts of Greece, except what is drank by the poorer 
 classes, which is a villanous compound, and like most other market- 
 able commodities, bought by weight: the chief food of these classes 
 consists of a coarse yellow polenta made of arabositi, which looks very 
 like a rice-pudding*; under an idea that it might resemble it also in 
 taste, I once purchased a lump for a para, and was nearly choked by 
 the first mouthful, being obliged to wash it down with a most nau- 
 seous draught of resined wine from the same shop, almost as bad as 
 spirits of turpentine. 
 
 The climate of Ioannina is more variable than is generally found in 
 Greece : in the summer the heat is quite oppressive : the winter is 
 sometimes very rainy, at others extremely cold, and the inhabitants, 
 who at one season of the year clothe themselves in the lightest ap- 
 parel, at the other wrap themselves up in robes lined with furs : the 
 common people preserve their shivering limbs from the severity of the 
 weather beneath cloaks of thick homespun fleecy cloth. Earthquakes 
 are common, and most frequent in the autumn : they sometimes 
 throw down the houses, and the fish have been known cast out of the 
 lake upon dry ground. 
 
 Amongst the maladies generally prevalent in large cities, fevers of 
 all kinds are common at Ioannina, especially nervous ones : these 
 arise chiefly from insalubrious dwellings, dirty habits of life, accumu- 
 lation of filth in the streets, deficiency of wholesome nutriment, and 
 above all from the great number of Albanese troops which are quar- 
 tered by the vizir upon the houses of the citizens : this is, without 
 exception, the most grievous and vexatious imposition to which these 
 poor people are subject ; and nothing tends so much to corrupt their 
 morals and to vitiate their manners : indeed all domestic comfort and 
 
 * This polenta resembles the fia(a dfioXyaiy] of Hesiod,a cake made of milk and maize for labouring 
 people. Athenaeus mentions a maize cake as the food of the lower classes, who could not afford to buy 
 bread. (Lib. xiv. 663. 6.) Such an one as eat it was sometimes called ^a£«yperj)e, which signifies a 
 voracious fellow, that would devour any thing that came in his way. Lib. xv. 686. 
 
 E 2 
 
28 CRUEL INSTANCE OF ALI PASHA'S TYRANNY. 
 
 purity of life must necessarily be destroyed in that family upon 
 which ten, twenty, thirty, or even forty of the most abandoned sol- 
 diery are quartered, who join, both officers and men, in the most wan- 
 ton exercise of power without any responsibility or dread of punish- 
 ment: sometimes they are sent for the very purpose of gratifying the 
 vizir's resentment, whether just or unjust. The venerable old Turkish 
 gentleman whom I have before mentioned as having been sent to play 
 at chess with Mr. Parker, had been obliged for many months to sup- 
 port fifty of these soldiers; they had broken every window in his 
 house, destroyed all his furniture, torn down his portico for fire- wood, 
 and obliged him to reside in the confined apartments of his harem, 
 from whence not a female of his family dare stir out; and all this for 
 some imaginary offence which he had given to the pasha : yet this per- 
 son was universally considered the most inoffensive and amiable Ma- 
 hometan in Ioannina. Such are the blessings of tyranny ! 
 

 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Marriage Procession of Giovanni Melas — Marriage Feast and various 
 Entertainments — Reflections upon the State of Female Society in 
 Greece — Story of Phrosini — Story of Gelisem — Marriage Ceremonies 
 — Albanian Wedding. 
 
 OUR friend Mr. Cockerel! had not left us many days before we 
 had opportunities of witnessing many interesting and curious scenes, 
 in the enjoyment of which we would most gladly have had his parti- 
 cipation. One of these was the marriage feast of Giovanni Meias, a 
 young Greek merchant, one among the best educated, most intelli- 
 gent, and most respectable men of the city. It was on a Saturday 
 evening that we went with Signore Nicolo to view the nocturnal pro- 
 cession which always accompanies the bridegroom in escorting his 
 betrothed spouse from the paternal roof to that of her future hus- 
 band : this consisted of near a hundred of the first persons in Ioannina 
 with a great crowd of torch-bearers and a band of music. After 
 having received the lady they returned, but were joined by an equal 
 number of ladies, who paid this compliment to the bride ; these were 
 also attended by their maid-servants, many of whom carried infants in 
 their arms dressed in prodigious finery. The little bride who appeared 
 extremely young, walked with slow and apparently reluctant steps, 
 according to custom, supported by a matron on each side and aijO her 
 behind*. The streets were crowded with people, among whom 
 
 * This ceremony may throw some light upon the expression of St. Paul, yvvaiKa jrepidytiv (Cor. i. 
 ix. v. 5.) misunderstood by many commentators. 
 
3() MARRIAGE FEAST AND ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 Signore Melas threw several handfuls of money at the door of his 
 dwelling: we ourselves were here introduced to him, and with great 
 politeness he ordered the band of music to accompany us back. 
 
 Next day, being Sunday, we understood that the Archbishop of loan- 
 nina attended at the house of Signore Melas to place the tinsel crowns 
 upon the heads of the new couple, light the tapers, put the rings on the 
 fingers, and perform all the other tedious ceremonies of a Greek wed- 
 ding. The consummation of the marriage rite and the unloosening of 
 the mystic zone is deferred till the third day of the ceremonials. 
 
 On this day a grand nuptial entertainment was given, as is usual, to 
 which all the particular friends and connexions of the bride and bride- 
 groom were invited. In the evening we sent our congratulations to 
 Signore Melas, with an intimation that if agreeable we would pay our 
 respects to him personally on his marriage. This, as we had foreseen, 
 was considered as a compliment; the band of music was sent to pre- 
 cede us to the house, at the door of which we found our host waiting 
 to receive us : from thence he led us into the festive chamber and in- 
 troduced us to his guests, I mean to the male part of them, since, as it 
 has been before observed, in this semi-barbarous country the sexes are 
 separated at all convivial entertainments ; a custom which, more than 
 every other, stops the progress of refinement, throwing over the amuse- 
 ments of society languid insipidity or tainting them with sottish de- 
 gradation. We found Signore Melas's friends, after having partaken of 
 the equal feast, pouring out copious libations to the rosy god, and sing- 
 ing hymeneal songs to the discordant harmony of fiddles and guitars. 
 All rose up at our entrance, receiving us with every mark of attention, 
 and seating us at the upper end of the divan, one on each side of Sig- 
 nore Alessio, the governor of Zagori, a great favourite with the vizir, 
 who it seems acted for the bridegroom as master of the ceremonies*. 
 
 * He was the chief bridesman or irapdvvfjfog on this occasion. 
 
MARRIAGE FEAST AND ENTERTAINMENTS. 31 
 
 In the interval between our introduction and supper, a fool or zany 
 was called in to divert the company by acting with a clown a kind of 
 pantomime, the ludicrous nature of which consisted in practical jokes 
 and hard knocks upon the clown's pate, which strongly excited the risi- 
 ble faculties of the spectators. 
 
 We were much more pleased with the next species of entertain- 
 ment, which consisted of an exhibition of the Albanitico or national 
 dance of the Albanian palikars, performed by several of the most 
 skilful among the vizir's guards who had been invited to the feast. The 
 evolutions and figures of this exercise served to display the astonishing 
 activity and muscular strength of these hardy mountaineers, who grasp- 
 ing each other lightly by the hands, moved for a time slowly back- 
 wards and forwards, then hurried round in a quick circular movement 
 according to the excitement of the music and their own voices, whilst 
 the coryphaeus or leader, who was frequently changed, made surpris- 
 ing leaps, bending backwards till his head almost touched the ground, 
 and then starting up into the air with the elastic spring of a bow, 
 whilst his long hair flowed in wild confusion over his shoulders*. After 
 
 * This AlbaniticX) has been considered by many as a remnant of the ancient Pyrrhic dance : but it is 
 astonishing how anicient authors differ amongst themselves regarding the nature of the Pyrrhic, which 
 seems generally allowed to have had its origin in Crete, or at least to have been first made known to the rest 
 of Europe from that island. Tjjv Xlvppf%r)v irpwrof Ivpr. TIvppi-xps KuiWictrijc Kp>)e -o ytVoc. Nic. Dama- 
 sen. de Mor. Gent, in Stobaei, Serm. xlii. See also Lucian, wlio refers it to Crete, though he derives it from 
 the sacred dances of the Curetes: de Saltatione, ^ S. Aristoxenus, quoted by Athenaeus (lib. xiv. c. T.) says 
 it was an invention of Pyrrhicus, a Spartan at Lacedasmon, and calls it a military exercise: but as the 
 laws and constitution of this country were brought from Crete, a mistake concerning the origin of a 
 custom might easily arise. Slrabo asserts (lib. x. p. 701, ed. Ox.) that the Pyrrhic was different from 
 the armed dance, ivoirkioQ 6pyj]<ng, and Aristophanes refers it to a species of that lascivious and immo- 
 dest dance called the Kop£a£, for delighting in which Philip of Macedon is so severely upbraided by 
 Demosthenes : and hence the satirical poet condemns all those who practise it to punishment in the in- 
 fernal regions. Ran 153. Most authors however consider the Pyrrhic as a military dance, and many 
 ascribe its origin to Pyrrhus the son of Achilles, who is said greatly to have excelled in it. From a con- 
 sideration of all circumstances I should think it not improbable that there were two kinds of Pyrrhic, 
 the one a vile lascivious movement, the other a manly and martial exercise : and this latter was chiefly 
 practised at Sparta, where children were taught it at the early age of five years ; and of this latter 
 Pyrrhic it is not improbable that, the Albanitico is a remnant, since we learn from Lucian that the Spar- 
 tans in their dance began like wrestlers, catching fast hold of each others hands, which practice was 
 called aKpo^eipia/ioc. It is also singular that amongst the Mainotes or Eleuthero-Lacones, as they are 
 called, the Albanitico or military dance is still best performed and held in highest repute. lit the wild 
 
Si MARRIAGE FEAST AND ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 this was finished, the bridegroom with several of his guests imitated their 
 example, with less agility, but with much more grace and elegance. 
 Dancing is still considered by the moderns as it was by the ancient 
 Greeks, a requisite accomplishment in the composition of a gentleman*. 
 When supper was announced we all sat down, except the bride- 
 groom, whose presence was excused, at a long table plentifully sup- 
 plied frith poultry, game, pilau, various made-dishes, and pastry. In 
 token of extreme civility, every person near us heaped food upon our 
 plates, which sometimes presented such an heterogeneous mixture of 
 fish, flesh, and fowl, that if we had been obliged to eat it this proba- 
 bly would have been our last meal. I observed a beautiful boy about 
 six years old who sat next me cramming himself till he could scarcely 
 breathe ; the little urchin seemed so determined that I should follow his 
 example that he generally put half his mess upon niy plate. Mr. Parker 
 happening to sneeze at this entertainment, he was quite electrified by 
 the boisterous congratulatory twos of the guests. This custom is very 
 general in the south of Europe, and seems to be a remnant of a very 
 ancient superstition-]--. In the mean time the guests poured down co- 
 
 songs and intensely stretched voices of these palikars during the exercise, one may perhaps recognise those 
 dp-i/wc pv$p6Q which Athenaeus says ought to accompany the Pyrrhic. That the name of this dance at 
 least was acknowledged as coinciding with a mariial exercise in the time of the Byzantine emperors 
 appears from a passage of Curopalatas, who says, speaking of it as an occupation of the soldiers under 
 Romanus Diogenes, ^aav yap bi tHjv a\\wv fid\i<;a ri\v Uvppi^tov cK^f/wAtri/Koree opxrjaiv. Except, 
 app. ad Hist. Comp Cedreni, p. 839. 
 
 * By similar feats was Ulysses entertained at the Court of Alcinous, who seems to have spoken of his 
 dancers with a regal pride. 
 
 'AM' ayf 4>atr)Kiav firfrdpfwvtc iitrooi. apiroi 
 
 Tiaiaarc u>s ■% ° fewot ivitnrq oiai flXoitii, 
 
 "QiKctct P0T$i<raQ, oaaov irepiyiyvoue^' ciAAwi* 
 
 NavnAi'ij kui iroaai Kai opxri^vi Kai iioiSrj' Od. v. 250. 
 + The custom of " adoring the sneeze" is alluded to by many authors. Athenaeus mentions it by 
 the phrase -n-Tappis irpocKvvt'iv, referring the origin of the custom to that general idea of sanciity which 
 was attached to the head : on iepov ivout&v t>)v Ka<pa\t]V lib. ii. c. 25. Xenophon in his Expedition of 
 Cyrus (lib. iii.) relates the curious effect which an accidental sneeze had upon the whole Grecian 
 army, who all with one accord adored it as a deity — pp opurj (Se &ioy. By many however the 
 sneeze was considered rather in the light of a disease, or at least as the indication of one, and thence 
 arose the ancient form of civility from the bystanders in the words ZEY Zii20N, from which the Italian 
 Viva is derived, and the English expression of " God bless you." 
 
 3 
 
MARRIAGE FEAST AND ENTERTAINMENTS. 33 
 
 pious draughts of wine, toasting the bride and bridegroom, the English 
 Milordi, Signore Alessio, and others : and now it was that I fancied I 
 could discover the meaning of old Anacreon in some of his Bacchana- 
 lian expressions from the manner in which these Grecian topers drank, 
 (*>urO many of whom filled two and others even three goblets with 
 wine* ; then taking up one with the right hand they applied it to their 
 lips pouring the contents of the other two into it with the left, and 
 never moving the cup from the mouth till the whole of the liquor was 
 dispatched : these triplets were received by the rest of the company 
 with unbounded applause. Possibly the celebrated Thracian Amystis 
 may have been a similar trial of Bacchanalian skill, and not a goblet, as 
 it is generally rendered. 
 
 Neu multi Damalis men 
 Bassum Threicia vincat AMYSTIDE. 
 
 The feast was kept up with great merriment and noise till Signore 
 Melas came in to pay us the highest compliment in his power, by in- 
 troducing us into the gynaeconitis, where the ladies were assembled. 
 
 * A great distinction between the ancient and the modern topers of Greece seems to be, that ths 
 latter never mingle water with their wine, though the former observed this custom as a very general 
 rule: 
 
 'Oi /xiv up oivov ifiiayov tvl KptjTrjpiri rat v$u>p' 
 They even worshipped the Acrotopotes or pure-wine-drinker as a being so superior in strength of head 
 as to be worthy of divine honours (Athenaei, lib. ii. p. 39) : they classed their wines into two sorts, the 
 6\iyof6poi and TroXvfopot, according to the proportion of water they would bear. Plutarch mentions 
 three different mixtures in use amongst wine-drinkers: 1st. Three parts of water to two of wine: 2d. 
 Two of water to one of wine : and 3d. Three of water to one of wine (Symp. 1. iii. Q. 9). Athenaeus 
 however reports that there was another mixture in vogue amongst the determined votaries of Bacchus; 
 this was the vivTi-tcai-cvia or five parts of wine to two of water. Some Wines are repoi ted to have been 
 so strong as to admit of twenty parts of water to one of wine ! Vid. Od. t. 209, and Hippocrat. lib. ii. 
 de Morb. in fin. The ancients tempered their wines with cold or warm water, according to the season 
 of the year or the state of their stomachs ; but that custom which sounds the most extraordinary to a 
 modern ear, is the mixture of sea-water with the wine, the bivov ^uXaatro/xtyov, as it is called by Hippo- 
 crates. 1 used to have my doubts about the passage of Horace respecting the Chium maris expers, and 
 was inclined to agree with those commentators who considered it as home-brewed, until I found the 
 custom most explicitly mentioned by Athenaeus (lib. i. c. 19), who says that under it the allegory of 
 Bacchus flying to the sea is veiled : jjtSuv yap etvat rbv oivov, irapzy\tOjxivr]Q SaXdooriQ- Certainly this 
 mixture could not be more revolting or nauseous than the vino resinalo of the moderns, which becomes 
 palatable by habit. It is curious that the Romaic name for wine is KpaaX, which, like the word crater, 
 is derived from the ancient custom of mixing water with it. 
 
 VOL. II. V 
 
34 MARRIAGE FEAST AND ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 In passing through the gallery or portico we observed a great quantity 
 of rich bed-furniture, consisting of purple velvet embroidered with gold, 
 which is always sent with the bride and displayed for public admiration 
 upon these occasions. We had heard that Ioannina was celebrated for 
 the beauty and fine complexion of its females; and certainly we were 
 not disappointed when we entered into the apartment where a party of 
 the most charming women in this capital were collected together. 
 They sat in a large circle round the room, superbly attired ; but the 
 liquid lustre of their eyes put to shame the jewels that sparkled in their 
 raven tresses. The reflection came forcibly across the mind, what 
 brutes the men must be who could desert the society of such master- 
 pieces of excelling nature, to indulge in the low gratifications of 
 riotous intemperance! By the smiles and whispers that went round 
 the circle, we soon perceived that our appearance excited much 
 curiosity, and that our persons and every article of our dress became 
 subjected to the minutest scrutiny. We were seated on each side the 
 little bride, who was scarcely twelve years of age, and was comparatively 
 so girlish that it required a great stretch of imagination to consider her 
 in the character of a matron. She was magnificently dressed, the value 
 of the jewels with which she was adorned being estimated at about 
 2000/. ; an ancient family appendage (that -rruxxilv xt^« of the Greek 
 tragedians) in the shape of an old nurse, stood near her, and this 
 Argus was actively employed in guarding her charge and repelling the 
 advances of Signore Melas, who was anxious to impress the marks of 
 his affection upon the lips of his betrothed. One of the Albanian 
 guards having brought in coffee, the young lady arose and with a very 
 pretty air handed it to Mr. Parker and myself, who were obliged to 
 surfer this inversion of the right order of things and accommodate our- 
 selves to the custom of the place. We observed that her manners and 
 deportment were accompanied with a great share of mildness and affa- 
 bility; but her features had not sufficiently expanded to judge of their 
 expression : it appeared to us that her countenance might become in.- 
 


 REFLECTIONS ON FEMALE SOCIETY IN GREECE. 35 
 
 teresting but by no means handsome. She was a daughter of the chief 
 primate of Ioannina, and her dowry was said to be very considerable. 
 After remaining about an hour in the Gynaeconitis we took our leave ; 
 but in quitting the room we remarked a number of faces peeping 
 out of an opposite latticed window, and found that a large party of 
 young unmarried girls had been keeping the feast in a different apart- 
 ment, separated both from men and women. The band of music ac- 
 companied us back to our lodging, where we arrived about midnight. 
 
 The scene we had witnessed naturally gave rise to some reflections 
 upon the degraded state of that sex whose influence has, in general, 
 so great an effect upon society. This degradation in Greece is owing 
 principally to a want of education amongst the females, and an early 
 seclusion from that society which they are intended to ameliorate and 
 adorn : but indeed if the first of these evils were removed, the second 
 would soon vanish — for when good principles and a sense of moral 
 duties are early instilled into the mind, there is no need of seclusion 
 or confinement. Women who know their duties are full as apt to prac- 
 tise them as men, and possessed as they are of a greater share of sensi- 
 bility, are much more easily led to cultivate the mild and social virtues. 
 Of all the countries which we visited, I saw none where this false 
 system of treatment was more to be regretted than in Greece. To 
 judge from the countenances of the Grecian females, they exhibit a 
 vivacity and brilliancy of expression that denotes a high degree of 
 sentiment and genius: they appear also naturally to possess affec- 
 tionate and kind dispositions, without any tendency to that spirit 
 of profligacy which characterizes the sex in many countries of the 
 South. But what can be expected from the system that is pursued ? 
 As soon as a girl approaches the age of puberty, she is more studiously 
 shut up from public sight than a catholic nun. In the interior of the 
 Gynekaios she is confined, but taught nothing beyond the art of em- 
 broidery or a few other such frivolous accomplishments, and, if her 
 nurse or mother should be able to read, is instructed in the science of 
 
 f 2 
 
36 REFLECTIONS ON FEMALE SOCIETY IN GREECE. 
 
 relics, the history of miracle-mongers, and other absurdities which su- 
 perstition has engrafted upon religion. As soon as she arrives at a 
 marriageable age, she is affianced by her family, as a matter of conve- 
 nience or sordid contract, and may be reckoned lucky if she find a 
 parity of age in her partner for life. Very rarely indeed is the hyme- 
 neal torch lighted here at the altar of love : all preliminaries are 
 carried on by the intervention of a third party ; no opportunity is 
 given to a young couple of studying each other's disposition, and ac- 
 quiring that knowledge of each other's character which is so essential 
 to connubial happiness ; there is nothing to excite those tender anxie- 
 ties and delicate attentions which interest and refine the soul : the in- 
 clinations of the parties most intimately concerned are not thought of; 
 the suitor expects nothing from his bride but a silent acquiescence in 
 the will of others, and the girl herself, anxious for liberty, gives her 
 consent without consulting or even knowing the inclinations of her 
 heart. Very curious surprises sometimes take place, when the bride- 
 groom goes to fetch his affianced spouse. The beautiful infant turns out 
 a picture of deformity ; or the plain child is transformed into an angelic 
 woman. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the anxiety of parents and friends in this country 
 to contract a marriage for their girls*. The brothers in a family, 
 make it an invariable rule, never to marry until their sisters are 
 disposed of; the truth of which was frequently confirmed to me by 
 most respectable authority. The strongest instance I ever met with 
 of this zeal was in a poor decayed tradesman of Ioannina, whom the 
 
 * Thus it was with the ancient Greeks : nothing seems to have been deprecated among them so 
 much as for a female to remain unmarried. 
 
 'AvvyubtvTOQ duv oi%yu> 
 SaKpvirt fiviaXea' 
 Says the wretched Electra in Euripides; and so also the Antigone of Sophocles, 
 "OvS' vfitvaiivv 
 tycXTjpoy, St' emvvfi(j>iit6s 
 
 its) fie tic viivog 
 vfivt}<riv, a'W 'AyipovTi vvfHpf.v<r<o 
 
REFLECTIONS ON FEMALE SOCIETY IN GREECE. 37 
 
 exactions of the vizir, and failures in commercial speculations, had re- 
 duced to the last stage of poverty : his still venerable, though melan- 
 choly appearance, so strongly excited our compassion in his behalf, 
 that we contributed a sum of money for his relief, which might possi- 
 bly, with good management and good fortune, have enabled him to 
 regain a tolerable livelihood ; but he chose rather to give it all as a 
 dowry with his eldest daughter, a very beautiful girl, to a young 
 Greek, who, according to custom, refused to marry her without one. 
 
 If the system pursued with regard to females in Greece were found 
 efficient in preserving the morals uncorrupted, and the inclinations 
 steady on the side of virtue, something might be said in its favour : 
 but I am afraid that ignorance and seclusion are quite as bad safe- 
 guards of innocence as freedom and cultivation : there Avill be this 
 difference indeed, that in one case vice will exist divested of all refine- 
 ment, and immorality exhibit itself in the grossest form : the mind too, 
 unaole to enjoy intellectual pleasures, will yield more easily to the 
 seductive influence of the passions. One of the few Greeks whom I 
 found aware of this injurious tendency, was Signore Melas, the very 
 person whose marriage gave rise to the foregoing observations. A 
 more frequent intercourse having subsequently made me better ac- 
 quainted with this intelligent young man, I discovered that the real 
 motive of his marriage with such a youthful bride, was a wish to 
 release her from the fetters of prejudice, that he might place her under 
 the care of his own mother, cultivate her talents, study her temper, 
 direct the rising energies of her mind, make the first years of matri- 
 mony only the latter end of courtship, and thus qualify his wife to 
 become his companion and his friend. These enlightened views of 
 Signore Melas may in great measure be attributed to that intercourse 
 with society to which his continental travels had introduced him. 
 
 It is a curious fact that the ancient Greeks, like the moderns, were 
 guilty of similar errors in the education of their women: they seem to 
 have been quite careless of all qualities and endowments in a wife, 
 
38 STORY OP PHROSINI. 
 
 except modesty and domestic management*. Those women amongst 
 them who are noted for talent, and conspicuous in the list of fame, 
 are for the most part of that class who acquired cultivation at the ex- 
 pence of virtue: they were a superior kind of courtesans, forming a 
 middle rank between the prostitute and the wife, and designated by 
 the title of 'E-rai'pai, or female companions: these women, knowing 
 that to gain universal admiration they must also acquire the polish of 
 education and accomplishment, boldly threw off restraint, and asso- 
 ciated freely with the men, studied their tastes, infused life into their 
 convivial entertainments, and splendour into their establishments : 
 hence they became not only mistresses to the young and dissi- 
 pated, but the instructresses of statesmen, and the companions of 
 philosophers. 
 
 Such examples are sometimes met with amongst the modern Greeks, 
 though the difficulties in the way of emancipation and the cultivation 
 of talent are now much greater than they were formerly. The tragic 
 story of the unfortunate Phrosini is already known to the English 
 reader ; but many circumstances connected with it have been so inac- 
 curately detailed that I shall here venture upon its repetition. This 
 young beauty was highly celebrated in Ioannina, not more for the 
 attractive graces of her person, than for that elegance of manners and 
 vivacity of wit, which made her the life and soul of society with 
 which she freely mixed. I have heard the gravest personages dwell 
 with rapture upon the remembrance of her talents, and the pleasure of 
 her conversation, With this accomplished female, Mouchtar Pasha 
 the vizir's eldest son, had formed an intimate connexion. The 
 
 * The following speech of Telemachus to his mother, the prudent Penelope, puts this in a strong 
 point of view. 
 
 'AXX' tic Imcov liaa ra travrfjt ipya Ktfyinjt 
 'I^ov t iiXaxdrriv re, Kai d[i<pnr6\oi<rt Ki\ive 
 "Epyov iirdi\ia$ai. fiv$0£ & avipiaai /ue\tj<rti, &c. 
 
 Od. a. 356. 
 
STORY OF PHROSINI. 59 
 
 estrangement which thence ensued between him and his wife excited 
 the most violent jealousy in the mind of that imperious woman, who 
 also interested her sister, the wife of Vely Pasha, in her cause. Some 
 time elapsed before they could gain any proof against the object of 
 their hatred, but at last an opportunity occurred which they eagerly 
 seized. A jeweller one day brought to Mouch tar's wife a brilliant ring 
 of great value, which she recognised as a wedding present made to her 
 faithless spouse, and which she found, on questioning the jeweller, had 
 been left with him for sale by her beautiful rival. Having gained 
 possession of the ornament, she sent instantly for her sister, who pro- 
 ceeded with her to the palace of the vizir : admitted into his pre- 
 sence, they raised a terrible outcry and demanded redress for the con- 
 tempt thus brought upon them by the machinations of Phrosini. Ali, 
 who at this time preserved his influence in Upper Albania by means of 
 his daughters-in-law, and had actually contrived through their aid to 
 cheat poor Ibrahim Pasha, their father, out of some very important ter- 
 ritory, felt unwilling to displease them: and therefore, raising them 
 from the ground, he swore by the beard of Mahomet that their just 
 desires of revenge should be indulged : it is also confidently reported 
 that he had at this time a criminal intrigue with the wife of Vely, and 
 that he could refuse nothing to her solicitations. 
 
 Trusting none of his officers with the execution of his commands, lest 
 they might either give alarm to Mouchtar Pasha, or become the ob- 
 jects of his future resentment, he went himself at the dead of night, 
 attended by his body-guard, to the house of the unsuspecting victim. 
 Having gained admittance, and procured a lamp, he proceeded at 
 once into her chamber, awoke her from sleep, and holding out the 
 ring in his hand, inquired if she recognised it. The unfortunate crea- 
 ture immediately read her fate in the stern countenance of the tyrant, 
 deceit was useless, and she confessed the fact. In a severe tone of 
 voice he then ordered her to arise, put on her clothes and follow him. 
 At the folding doors of the court he delivered her into the custody of 
 the patrole, permitting one favourite maid alone to attend her mistress. 
 
40 STORY OF GELISEM. 
 
 They were conducted to a Greek church on the borders of the lake 
 near the gardens of the Kiosk, and presently afterwards about twenty 
 frail women of the lower ranks were conveyed to the same place of 
 confinement. There they all passed the night in prayer, expectino- 
 every moment to be their last. The next day however came to a 
 close without the fatal order being given. The despot himself seemed 
 struck with remorse, and hesitated before he could sign the sentence of 
 death : he has even declared since, that he waited only for proper in- 
 tercession to spare their lives. One man indeed, a poor Greek, did 
 present himself before him to beg the lite of his guilty spouse, who was 
 one of the unfortunates locked up with Phrosini. The vizir laughing 
 aloud, asked him if lie were content to live in wedlock with a whore? 
 and on the man's replying in the affirmative, he gave an order for her 
 release. The execution of the rest took place at night : they were 
 taken in a barge from the church to some distance on the lake, tied up 
 in sacks, and precipitated into the deep : Phrosini and her faithful 
 maid, watching an opportunity, before the guards could prevent them, 
 clasped each other in their arms and plunged into the water to rise no 
 more. 
 
 Drowning is the general punishment for incontinency inflicted by 
 the Mahometan rulers upon their female subjects both Turkish and 
 Greek : but if one of their own women should be caught intriguing 
 with a Christian, such an insult upon the faith is not to be expiated but 
 by the severest retribution, and the most public example. The follow- 
 ing scene is copied from Mr. Jones's MS. Journal, having occurred 
 during his residence in Ioannina. 
 
 " The day on which I took my leave of Ali Pasha for the north 
 of Albania, a Turkish girl, of extraordinary beauty, was stoned to 
 death. As my two friends and myself were proceeding to the 
 palace, we heard a person proclaiming something in the Turkish lan- 
 guage, and on inquiring of our interpreter, we found it was an order 
 
STORY OF GELISEM. 41 
 
 for ' every true believer in the faith of Mahomet' to go and throw a 
 stone at this poor girl. Her crime was that of intriguing with a Chris- 
 tian (a Neapolitan in the vizir's service) for which the laws of Turkey 
 subjected her to this horrible punishment. 
 
 " The interviews between herself and her lover had been facilitated 
 by a Jew; but this worthy descendant of Iscariot was the first person to 
 betray them. He supped at the Neapolitan's table on the fatal 
 evening, and he had scarcely retired from it half an hour before his in- 
 formation caused them to be arrested by the Turkish guard. The fol- 
 lowing morning, Gelisem (this was the unfortunate girl's name) was 
 condemned to die. Soon after sentence was passed, her face was un- 
 covered and exposed to the public gaze, which is the greatest indignity 
 that can be offered to a Turkish female. SheAvas then conducted, 
 amidst the groans and curses of the Mahometans, to a plain at a short 
 distance from the town. She had no sooner reached the fatal spot 
 than she was partly stripped, and her long black tresses loosened 
 about her neck and shoulders. One would suppose that her appear- 
 ance at this moment might have disarmed even Turks of their venge- 
 ance. But no! she was obliged to descend into a hole dug for the 
 purpose, when these barbarians began to pelt her with stones, uttering 
 at the same time a volley of groans and curses. She was tortured in 
 this manner for nearly a quarter of an hour, the pebbles being incon- 
 siderable in size and striking her mostly about the neck and shoulders. 
 At length an Albanian soldier, who had probably more humanity than 
 the rest, took up a large stone, and, throwing it upon her head, put an 
 end to her misery. She was then left buried under the mass. 
 
 " The fate of the Neapolitan can be considered as little less severe. 
 After having been permitted to remain at Ioannina long enough to wit- 
 ness the cruelties exercised upon his mistress, he was himself sent in 
 charge of an Albanian escort to the town of Argyro-Castro, in the in- 
 terior of Albania, where the plague was violently raging, and where 
 two-thirds of the inhabitants had already fallen victims to its fury. 
 
 VOL. II. g 
 
42 STORY OF GELISEM. 
 
 " What rendered the fate of these unfortunate persons more melan- 
 choly was, that the girl, who was but nineteen years old, was in a state 
 of pregnancy, and the Neapolitan wished to marry her ; but this could 
 not be permitted, according to the laws of the country. I was in- 
 formed, however, at Ioannina, that he might have saved her life as 
 well as his own by renouncing his religion. The girl too, had means of 
 escaping the punishment of death ; but she afforded a singular instance 
 of female heroism as well as of that extraordinary attachment which all 
 the Turks bear to the religion of Mahomet. When she arrived at the 
 fatal hole dug in the ground, she was desired by the priest to leap into 
 it, ' if a true believer in Mahomet : — if not, to leap over it.' She took 
 the former resolution, though the consequence of her not doing so 
 would have been the preservation of her life. She would indeed have 
 been degraded, scouted, and spit upon by the Turks; but her life 
 would have been spared. 
 
 " Of course, we had no wish to be spectators of this horrible scene; 
 nor should we have been permitted if we had had that wish, so enraged 
 were the Mahometans against the Christians, or, as they are pleased to 
 term them, ' the Infidels/ Indeed it was said at the time (and con- 
 sidering the source from whence I received the information, I have reason 
 to believe it true) that a dervish went to the vizir next day, and repre- 
 sented to him the necessity of sacrificing thirty Christian heads, in or- 
 der to save the girl's soul ; but the vizir had him turned immediately 
 out of the room. Had this measure been adopted, my head might 
 possibly have counted one. 
 
 " We walked through the streets on this day as usual ; but we 
 were afterwards told that we had acted imprudently in doing so. 
 There are certainly many parts of Turkey where we might have 
 been exposed to the fury of the Mahometans. But considering the high 
 authority of Ali Pasha at Ioannina, as well as his extreme care not 
 only to protect but even to please the English, I believe we incurred 
 very iittle danger on this occasiou." 
 
MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 
 
 43 
 
 Thus it is these barbarians treat that weak and gentle sex, whom 
 they themselves drive into error, instead of endeavouring to retain them 
 within the path of virtue : not only do they totally neglect their edu- 
 cation and improvement, but by their polygamical institution, that 
 gross violation of Nature's law* and the social compact, they destroy 
 at once all those tender affections which are the strongest induce- 
 ments to chastity and virtue. The emancipation of females from 
 tyrannical prejudices will be slow but certain among the Greeks, and 
 they Avill ultimately attain the proper station to which they are en- 
 titled ; but with the Turks the case is very different, and almost hope- 
 less: there amelioration is opposed by the detestable principles of re- 
 ligion, if indeed it can be called a religion, which teaches that wo- 
 men are born but for the gratification of man and the propagation of 
 the species, which turns them into slaves, and perpetuates the de- 
 grading inferiority by denying them participation even in the public 
 worship of their Creator. 
 
 The marriage ceremony among the Mahometans is extremely 
 simple, being merely a civil contract signed and witnessed before the 
 cadi. The Greek rites are numerous and absurd in the highest 
 possible degree ; they have been so often described that a repetition is 
 unnecessary, but as an Albanian wedding may possibly be new to the 
 reader, I shall finish this chapter with the description of one which I 
 received from a friend who was present at the ceremony. 
 
 "The bridegroom goes on horseback to the dwelling of the bride: 
 he is there presented with an immense loaf, which he breaks into pieces 
 and throws to the spectators at the door, who are all very eager to pro- 
 cure a piece. When he enters he is invited by the parents to sit down 
 to eat and drink, a ceremony which is generally most voraciously com- 
 
 * Polygamy must be considered as an infringement of the law of Nature from the general equality of 
 males and females born inio the world, in all places, and in all climates: the preponderance indeed, 
 though small, is said to be on the side of the males, which seems a wise and providential regulation to 
 counterbalance the dangers and accidents to which this sex is so much more exposed than the other. 
 
 G 2 
 
44 ALBANIAN WEDDING. 
 
 plied with. The mother kisses the bridegroom, and ties round his neck 
 a handkerchief, a present from his fair one and sometimes embroidered 
 by her hands. The duty of the priest is generally performed in the 
 house or garden, it not being at all necessary that it should take place 
 in the church. They then mount on horseback, the bridegroom first 
 dressed in his best apparel, and carefully wrapped in cloaks, looking 
 very downcast, and supported by his friends, as if he were unable to en- 
 dure so awful a ceremony : the bride is veiled, but loaded with finery, 
 which is either her own, or borrowed for the occasion : at some dis- 
 tance from the house they are met by their friends and the young girls 
 of the neighbourhood, who dance before them to music, which is ac- 
 companied by the voices of the party : this is by far the most interest- 
 ing part of the ceremony. On arriving at the house, the father of the 
 bride receives her in his arms at the door, and while she is apparently 
 forced to enter, throws a pomegranate against the wall as an omen of 
 fertility ; the mother of the bridegroom presents her with honey, corn 
 and oil, and winding a shawl round them both, she, together with the 
 relations, drag them into the apartment, the bride affecting great re- 
 luctance and resistance She is there unveiled, and is obliged to stand 
 with downcast eyes, like a statue, against the wall. She is then saluted 
 by the relations and friends, and is ready to receive any little presents 
 which they may be generous enough to offer. After this they sit down 
 to a feast, prepared according to the means of the family, all except 
 the bride, who frequently remains standing many hours whilst the com- 
 pany eat, and bows with great complaisance to every one that drinks 
 her health." 
 

 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Shooting Excursion with Mouchtar Pasha upon the Lake — Dinner on 
 the Island — Invitation to a grand Entertainment by the Vizir — De- 
 scription of it — Visits from the chief Greeks of Ioannina — Signore 
 Alessio, the Governor of Zagori — Visit of Ceremony to the Vizir — 
 His Skill in Geography — Shooting on the Lake — Thalassopidi — Police 
 of Ioannina — Review of Albanian Troops by the Vizir — Our general 
 Manner of Living — Manners and Customs of the Greeks — Marriage 
 Procession of one of AH Pasha's Concubines — Ali's Harem — His 
 Court and Officers. 
 
 1 HE day after Signore Melas's marriage feast, we received an invi- 
 tation at about nine o'clock A. M. to accompany Mouchtar Pasha in 
 a grand shooting excursion upon the lake. We lost no time in pre- 
 paring our fowling pieces, and descended to the quay accompanied 
 by Signore Nicolo and his brother Giovanni, where we found two 
 caiques waiting for us by the Pasha's orders : all the others belonging 
 to Ioannina, amounting to more than 100, were engaged for the sport. 
 We observed them already moving towards the southern extremity 
 of the lake like a Lilliputian fleet, and our boatmen redoubling their 
 efforts, we soon overtook them. Each caique, besides the rower, con- 
 tained one or more sportsmen, with as many guns as they could 
 collect. For a considerable distance the squadron moved forward in a 
 strait line, driving before it myriads of wild fowl of every species, until 
 at length the boats at the extremities shot a-head, and formed a 
 curvilinear line, enclosing a large space of water. As this circle 
 narrowed itself, the birds confined within began to rise in dark masses 
 
46 SHOOTING EXCURSION WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. 
 
 like clouds, and to fly over our heads. Then the firing commenced 
 from one extremity of the line to the other, and continued about ten 
 minutes or a quarter of an hour, until the surface of the water was 
 literally strewed with wild-fowl. We were stationed near the centre 
 of this circle, close to the Pasha, who had about twenty guns in his 
 boat, with one of his Albanians to load them as quick as they were 
 discharged. He is an excellent shot, and very rarely missed his bird; 
 it is said that he can shoot a hare when he is on horseback at full 
 gallop, but this feat we never witnessed : if practice however can 
 make perfect, he ought to be the best marksman in Albania. Some 
 of his guns were of a great length, and he was so surprised at seeing 
 me bring down a bird at a long shot with a very short fowling piece, 
 that he requested me to send it for his inspection into the caique. 
 After the sportsmen had picked up their game, the squadron was 
 again set in motion, to pursue the wild fowl who had retreated to a 
 different part of the lake : the scene was exceedingly beautiful, for the 
 sun shone brilliantly, and the snow-capt mountains, with the convents 
 villages and cypress groves upon the banks, were finely reflected in the 
 transparent water : the firing from the boats had the effect of a naval 
 engagement in miniature, the echoes of the musketry being increased 
 and prolonged amidst the folds of the surrounding hills : hundreds of 
 eagles and vultures flying around the shores of the lake, flapping their 
 enormous wings, and screaming as it were with delight in the prospect 
 of their prey, added much to the grandeur of the scene. After we had 
 been thus engaged about four hours, the vizir himself made his appear- 
 ance in his state barge, but did not join in the sport ; soon afterwards 
 the wind began to rise, and occasioned rather a heavy swell ; the 
 signal was then given for dispersion, and the caiques all hastened with 
 their loads towards the city. Mouchtar however had prepared a dinner 
 at the house of one of his retainers on the island, of which he invited 
 us to partake : accordingly we landed at the village, and found very 
 excellent fare provided in a house remarkable for its extreme neat- 
 
 3 
 
SHOOTING EXCURSION WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. 47 
 
 ness and cleanliness. We were placed on each side the Pasha at the 
 corner of the divan, whilst two Albanian officers and Signore Nicolo, 
 who was honoured with an invitation, knelt upon the floor, to bring 
 their mouths on a level with the little round table, or tin tray, upon 
 which the provisions were laid. My friend and myself alone had 
 plates, and we all helped ourselves without reserve by means of our 
 fingers from the same dish, except that now and then the Pasha and 
 his guests, for the sake of compliment, dabbed a few handfuls of a mess 
 upon our plates. A young Albanian Ganymede, with flowing hair 
 and embroidered apparel, stood behind Mouchtar, with a pitcher of 
 wine and goblet, from which he helped his master and the rest of the 
 party: our fare was pilau, excellent ragouts, fish boiled and fried, fowls 
 and pastry, to the number of about thirty dishes. Soon after we had 
 dispatched our meal, we left the pasha to the enjoyment of his siesta 
 and strolled about the village; whose neat comfortable mansions and 
 clean streets, as well as the orderly behaviour and industrious habits of 
 the people, put to shame all other places which we visited in this 
 country. Passing by a decent church we came into a pretty square, 
 where we observed several stone seats, in which the old men of 
 the village sit basking in the evening sun, after their daily labours, 
 and witness the sports and enjoyments of the youth*. I never observed 
 a greater appearance of contentment and happiness than among this 
 people; it is so favourite a place of resort to Mouchtar, and so useful 
 to him in the pursuit of his sport, that he governs it not only with 
 mildness, but with great partiality. Prom the village we wandered 
 over the island, delighted with the fine prospects which its eminences 
 afford, and on returning to the house took coffee and smoked several 
 pipes with the pasha before we separated. As the night was fine and 
 clear, Mouchtar, who is insatiable in all amusements, ordered his 
 
 * Upon mentioning this circumstance to a learned friend, he suggested that it was a good commentary 
 upon a passage ot the Medea : 
 
 Ilto-fl-BC irpoae\$wv tv&a <Sr; iraXairarot 
 GgVtWfTi ptfkvov dn<fi Iltipi'jojt iidwp. 
 
48 GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR, 
 
 caique to row towards the upper lake, where he intended to spend 
 some hours in shooting : we bent our course towards the city, listen- 
 ing to the songs of the Albanian boatmen, and viewing the reflection 
 of the hghts from the castron in the rippling surface of the water. Foi 
 several days after this excursion we were nearly confined to the house 
 by continual rain, though the time was in some measure lightened by 
 the society of Mr. Foresti and Mr. Pouqueville, and by occasional 
 visits from the friends and connexions of our host. 
 
 February 10th. — On this day we received a compliment which we 
 little expected, and for which we were indebted to the kind interces- 
 sion of Mr. Foresti : it was an invitation from Ali Pasha to accom- 
 pany him to a splendid feast given at the house of Signore Alessio 
 and to dine at his own table : to this honour he had never before ad- 
 mitted any foreigner, of the highest distinction, except the present 
 Lord Guilford: even Sir John Stuart, and General Airey governor of 
 the Ionian Isles, though invited to a dinner, were seated at different 
 tables apart from the vizir. We received intimation of the honour 
 awaiting us just after we had finished our own dinner, but we willingly 
 took the chance of death by a surfeit, for the satisfaction of dining 
 with Ali Pasha. We had scarcely time to array ourselves in our best 
 apparel before one of the chaoushes was at the door to precede us 
 through the streets, and we set out accompanied by our host. 
 
 All the approaches to Signore Alessio's mansion, as well as the 
 court and galleries, were crowded with Albanian guards and others in 
 the pasha's train. The rooms were brilliantly lighted up, and the 
 clang of cymbals, drums, and Turkish instruments of music, denoted 
 the presence of a potentate. We stopped for a short time in a large 
 ante-room, where the vizir's band was playing to a troop of dancing 
 boys, dressed in the most effeminate manner, with flowing petticoats 
 of crimson silk, and silver-clasped zones around the waist: they were 
 revolving in one giddy and interminable circle, twisting their pliant 
 bodies into the most contorted figures, and using the most lascivious 
 gestures, throwing about their arms and heads like infuriated Baccha- 
 
GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR. 49 
 
 nals, and sometimes bending back their bodies till their long hair 
 actually swept the ground, illustrating thereby a distich of Clau- 
 dian which has not unfrequently been misunderstood by his commen- 
 tators. 
 
 Quis melius vibrata puer vertigine molli 
 
 Membra rotet? verrat quis marmora crine supino 1 
 
 In Eutrop. ii. 359. 
 
 Another Latin poet describes these dances so accurately, that I can- 
 not forbear quoting the lines. 
 
 Juvat et vago rotatu 
 Dare fracta membra ludo, 
 Simulare vel trementes 
 Pede, veste, voce Bacchas. 
 
 As we entered into the banqueting room we observed the vizir 
 seated as usual, at a corner of the divan, upon cushions of rich silk. 
 Next to him sate a Turkish nobleman, named Mazout Effendi, one of 
 the most venerable men I ever beheld, with a long white beard hang- 
 ing over his breast, that exceeded even the vizir's by at least six 
 inches : this old gentleman lived at Constantinople, but generally 
 came to spend a few months in the year with Ali, being a vast 
 favourite on account of his convivial propensities. Below Mazout 
 sate the Archbishop of Ioannina, with the two epitropi or Greek pri- 
 mates ; so that the whole party, with ourselves, made up seven, the exact 
 number of the Platonic symposium. Signore Alessio, the owner of the 
 mansion, coming out from the midst of a crowd of Greeks who stood at 
 the lower end of the divan, advanced with us towards the pasha, who 
 received us with every mark of civility, and motioned us to sit down 
 upon the sofa at his right hand. He then ordered Signore Psalida to 
 act as interpreter, who came up with a face decked in smiles and re- 
 verently kissed the hem of his master's garment, in token of submis- 
 sion to his commands. Ali was evidently in extreme good humour, 
 
 VOL. II. H 
 
50 GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR, 
 
 and dealt out his jokes and sallies of wit profusely, which of course 
 had the effect of producing peals of laughter. At last, turning to my- 
 self, and stroking his long white beard, he asked if the people in Eng- 
 land vore beards. I replied, only the Jews; at which he seemed as if 
 he scarcely knew whether to smile or frown. Old Mazout in the mean 
 time preserved the most dignified silence and demeanour, nor did his 
 impenetrable countenance once relax into a smile*. I scarcely 
 thought it was in the power of Bacchus himself to turn this venerable 
 Polysperchon -f into such a merry rogue and very buffoon as he after- 
 wards exhibited himself. In fact, we learned that the striking contrast 
 between his extreme gravity when sober and his boisterous vivacity 
 when half seas over, renders him so great a favourite with the vizir that 
 he never goes to an entertainment without him whilst he resides in 
 Ioannina. 
 
 After the lapse of about half an hour the lady of the house came 
 forward with a silver pitcher and ewer, and a finely embroidered nap- 
 kin thrown over her arm : having advanced to the vizir and made her 
 obeisance she poured out warm water into the basin, with which he 
 washed his hands, turning up his loose sleeves for this purpose, and 
 washing half way up to the elbowj: after he had finished his ablution, 
 the water was brought to us and the other guests: this custom certainly 
 seems requisite in a country where the modern use of knives and forks 
 is entirely precluded by a partiality for the fingers. The vizir now 
 motioned us to draw round a circular tin-tray which had been scraped 
 bright for the ceremony (£i r * r^i^a), and we accordingly ranged our- 
 selves at his highnesses right hand upon rich velvet cushions, several of 
 
 * His appearance might be accurately designated by the words of Lucian, who is describing a philo- 
 sophic character at an entertainment. 2£^*y<Jc rte tdctv nai Scoirpeiriic kiti jtoXu to koojxwv iiritydivutv r«j> 
 irpoai>Tc<f. Conviv. §. 7. 
 
 + Vid. Athen. Dt'ipn. I. iv. 155. 
 
 % Does not this tend to confirm the interpretation which some commentators give to the word irvy/xij 
 in St. Mark's Gospel, c. vii. v. 3, which seems wrongly translated in our version by the expression 
 " oft"? 
 
 2 
 
GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR. $ t 
 
 which were placed one upon the other for our accommodation : on his 
 left sat Mazout Effendi, the rest of the space being filled by the arch- 
 bishop and the primates. Rich scarfs were now thrown over our 
 shoulders, and napkins placed before us, so embroidered with gold as to 
 serve for no earthly purpose but that of decoration : a fine silken shawl 
 being laid upon the vizir's knees, he courteously spread it out and ex- 
 tended it to Mr. Parker and myself. 
 
 Before dinner a dessert, or anteccenium, was placed upon the table, 
 consisting of apples, dried fruits, and sweetmeats. After some of 
 the party had nibbled an almond or swallowed a raisin, this quickly 
 disappeared, and a tureen of thick soup was placed by the mistress of 
 the family before the guests ; into this the vizir first dipped his wooden 
 spoon, and was followed by the rest of the company : next came a 
 roasted lamb, brought in by a servant, to which all fingers round 
 the table were immediately applied, stripping the meat from off 
 one side till the ribs were fairly exposed to view : I ought to observe 
 that in deference to our customs knives and forks were placed before 
 the Englishmen, which however they thought proper to dispense with 
 as much as possible: the lamb was followed by a brace of partridges, 
 which the vizir took up in both his hands and placed one upon 
 Mr. Parker's plate and the other upon my own, as a token of ex- 
 treme condescension : scarcely however had they lain there a moment 
 when they suddenly disappeared like Sancho Panza's delicacies, being 
 snatched up by the dirty fingers of the bare-legged Albanian guards 
 who stood around us: this however was done merely to relieve us from 
 the trouble of carving, for when they had pulled them limb from limb, 
 they very carefully and respectfully replaced them upon our plates ; 
 and in this manner was every fowl, or duck, or any other species of 
 poultry served which the courtesy of the vizir and of the other guests 
 induced them to offer us : and indeed these marks of civility were 
 showered down so thick upon us that I was quite surprised how we 
 survived this day's cramming, especially when it is considered that we 
 
 h 2 
 
53 GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR. 
 
 had eaten our regular dinner before we came to the feast, and that 
 etiquette in this country demands that the guests should at least taste 
 all the dishes set before them. 
 
 No liquor was drank at this entertainment but wine, which several 
 beautiful youths from the vizir's seraglio stood to pour out from 
 pitchers into glass goblets. Two pages would scarcely be sufficient to 
 describe the different viands which were placed upon the table singly 
 and separately, and upon which the first-rate culinary science in Tur- 
 key seemed to have been lavished ; some of the ragouts and piquant 
 sauces would not have disgraced the civic table of a lord-mayor : the 
 most insipid article was the pastry, which was nothing more than 
 cakes of meal, honey, and pistachio nuts. We had to run the gaunt- 
 let for about two hours through eighty-six dishes, all placed singly 
 before the guests in a varied succession of roast and boiled meats, 
 fish, stews, pastry, game, and wild-fowl, &c. until the dessert again 
 appeared. In the mean time the Ganymedes had not been idle with 
 their pitchers and goblets, and Signore Alessio, the imovrrK of the 
 feast, supplied them with his best quadrimum. Old Mazout had 
 once or twice during dinner shewn symptoms of the Bacchic fury 
 rising within him, by throwing open a sash window behind the divan, 
 and joining in chorus with the Albanian band that was playing and sing- 
 ing in the anteroom. The vizir however now ordered him to be plied 
 with larger and more frequent goblets ; and, as he is very fond upon 
 these occasions of seeing every one around him inebriated, he com- 
 manded the crowd of Greeks to advance from the lower end of the 
 room and to drink like fishes. As for himself he took only a mode- 
 rate portion of wine, and very considerately requested Mr. Parker 
 and myself to follow his example. 
 
 The fames of the wine began at length to operate so strongly upon 
 old Mazout that his tongue seemed resolved to make amends for the 
 silence to which it had previously been doomed : he sang droll songs 
 in the Turkish language, exerted his lungs in the most violent shouts, 
 
GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR. S3 
 
 rolled about upon the divan, and throwing off his turban exhibited 
 his bare head to view, whilst the spectators, and especially the vizir, 
 were convulsed with laughter. Soon afterwards he called the dancing 
 boys into the room, and snatching a tambourine from the hands of 
 their leader, jumped and capered about, beating the instrument like 
 an ancient Silenus: he then endeavoured to catch the boy, who eluded 
 his grasp with the pliability of an eel, whilst the old fellow, failing in 
 many of his attempts, fell flat upon the ground to the no small merri- 
 ment of the by-standers. In the midst of this interlude however 
 Mazout several times ran up to Ali, caught him with his arms round 
 the neck, and almost suffocated him with embraces, kissino- him 
 on the forehead and bosom, and addressing him with expressions of 
 the most fond attachment: from the vizir he ran off again to the 
 dancing boys, and at last seizing their coryphaeus, he nearly stilled him 
 with caresses; then dragging him up to the divan, he coaxed Ali to 
 give him a handful of small gold coins, which he wetted with his 
 spittle and stuck like spangles over the boy's face, who struggled very 
 hard to get free, that he might pocket the affront. 
 
 When the dancers had quitted the room the toasts began to circulate 
 with great rapidity, all of which were drank in full bumpers. Ali gave 
 the health of the Prince Regent, and the Royal Family of Great 
 Britain ; in return for which we drank to the prosperity of his house 
 and dynasty, and to the immortal memory of Pyrrhus, his heroic 
 ancestor. At length 1 proposed a toast by way of experiment, to see 
 the effect which it would produce: this was — health and prosperity to 
 Salee Bey — the vizir's youngest and favourite son, who, as it is 
 strongly conjectured, is designed for his successor. This proposal was 
 received with evident satisfaction by the vizir, and by the most raptu- 
 rous applause from all the company ; Ali took a full bumper, old 
 Mazout three, and the archbishop, who had for some time fought 
 shy, demanded two; Psalida reiterated his shouts with Stentorian 
 lungs; Signore Alessio ordered a fresh barrel to be tapped, that all 
 3 
 
54 GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR. 
 
 might do justice to the toast, and the Greeks encircling the vizir and 
 kissing the hem of his robes, tossed off glass after glass till he desired 
 them to forbear. This toast, by-the-bye, was proposed and drank 
 twice again during the evening, but no one thought of giving the health, 
 either of Mouchtar or Vely Pasha. Soon after this ebullition, the 
 archbishop prudently decamped, and Psalida, who had for some time 
 been guilty of clipping the vizir's Greek, being led off the field hors de 
 combat, our host Nicolo occupied his place as interpreter of tongues. 
 
 During a short interval of quiet, I took the opportunity of asking 
 Ali whether there was any truth in the report that he intended Salee 
 Bey to enjoy the advantages of foreign travel by visiting the different 
 European courts : to this he answered, that the plan had been strongly 
 recommended to him, and that he had taken it into serious considera- 
 tion, but it was so contrary to the custom of his countrymen that he 
 felt obliged to decline it. He asked how we liked Ioannina, and whether 
 our host conducted himself well towards us : upon our answering that 
 he was a good fellow (xaxoc *»8 ? w7roc), he shook his head and said — " His 
 father was." He then desired us, in his usual hyperbolical style, to 
 consider all his possessions as our own, and commanding silence in the 
 room, he declared in a loud tone, that he should consider no man his 
 friend who did not shew us civility and attention. Some time before 
 this speech was ended old Mazout began to be very impatient, and at 
 length commenced a humorous song, which alas ! he was unable to 
 finish, for unfortunately overbalancing himself in one of his outrageous 
 attitudes, he fell off the sofa and rolled under the table : whilst he lay 
 there, the Greeks seeing how the vizir was inclined, seemed to forget that 
 awe which the presence of an autocrat, upon whose breath their very 
 lives depended, might inspire, and began to play all sorts of practical jokes 
 upon each other, tripping up heels, knocking off calpacs, and exploding 
 detonating balls close to the ear : the noise and confusion thus occa- 
 sioned roused old Mazout Effendi from his trance ; for, starting up in 
 a species of delirium, he thrust his hand and arm through the sash win- 
 
GRAND ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIR. 55 
 
 dow behind him : the joke seemed to be relished ; Signore Alessio thrust 
 his arm through another pane, and Mazout immediately broke in the 
 whole sash with his hands and feet : all the Greeks now fell to, and in 
 like manner demolished every window in the apartment, amidst the 
 loud laughter of Ali, and the Bacchanalian triumph of theEfFendi, who 
 ran to caress the vizir after every feat which he performed. 
 
 When this work of destruction was finished Ali gave the signal for 
 breaking up the party, and silence immediately succeeded to the yells 
 which a few minutes before would have astounded an Indian war-tribe. 
 The Greeks now retired to the bottom of the room, the pitcher and 
 ewer with warm water Avere again introduced, and the customary 
 ablutions performed : then several guards entered and preceded the 
 vizir with long wax tapers to the head of the staircase, where he stopped 
 a few minutes, asked for his English friends, and took a very courteous 
 leave of us. At the outer door, in the area, stood several hundreds of 
 his Albanian retinue with a fine Arabian charger richly caparisoned: 
 vaulting into his saddle he set off in a gallop towards the serai of Lita- 
 ritza, followed by his motley crew, shouting, waving their torches, and 
 running at full speed to keep up with their chief. Mr. Parker and my- 
 self walked silently home, listening to the retreating uproar as it lessened 
 on the ear, and when we arrived at Signore Nicolo's mansion we 
 stared at each other and asked mutually whether it was not all a 
 dream* ? 
 
 * 1 subjoin to this account one out of many passages in th<! Odyssey which mark a strong similarity 
 between ancient and modern customs at convivial entertainments: 
 
 Xtpvi/Ga fr d[i<piiw\oe itpo\6<j> £;t£'y£ue fiptura 
 KuAjj xpvaiiq, vwcp apyvpeoio XefttjTOQ, 
 fthfiaaStW Trapix ci Ifi^W travvaoi rpdiriZav' 
 YItov S' dwolt) rafiir] irapi^r)Kt ipepoaa, 
 Eifara irv\X iirtiiiaa, ■^apt^Ofiivr] TraptovTtov. 
 AiitTpij? Si KpuCiv trlyaxae irapicr)Kiv aiipag 
 II«f7-oi«ji', iruph Si cr<pt riSei xpvaua niiirikAa. 
 K>/pi'£ $ aiiTOtert -Sa^' iirif\eTO otvo^otvui^. 
 'Ec S' /{A-Joy iu/r)OTrjpes a'yr/i opfe' 01 fiiv tirtira 
 'E&tije i(ovto Kara kXkt/xbc re ;pvvus re* 
 To7(Ti Si rcfovKft fiiy vSwp tVi \itpag txsvav, 
 
56 SIGNORE ALESSIO, GOVERNOR OF ZAGORI. 
 
 Next day I believe the sun had not run through half his course ere 
 it was known to every person of note in Ioannina that the two English 
 milordi had dined with the vizir : in consequence our room for several 
 successive mornings was crowded with visitors, and from this time we 
 enjoyed the most free and uninterrupted intercourse with the society of 
 the place. Amongst the earliest arrivals was our late host Signore 
 Alessio, who was evidently considered first amongst the Greeks of 
 Ioannina, and stood highest in the despot's favour: ibis favour how- 
 ever he was obliged to retain by great sacrifices : it was but a short 
 time since he had presented him with a complete service of plate, exe- 
 cuted in the most superb style at Vienna; and yesterday very mag- 
 nificent gilts were sent to the inmates of his harem, as is customary 
 when he honours one of his subjects with his company at dinner. Ales- 
 sio's father had been the principal instrument in gaining the Pashalic of 
 Ioannina lor its present ruler: in remembrance of which service he had 
 made the son governor of Z i£ori, one of the four districts into which 
 the province is divided, it lies north-east oi the city on the other side 
 of Mitzikeli, extending up towards Konitzaaud Grevna, and including 
 forty-eight towns and villages, over which Alessio has almost sovereign 
 sway, and from which he draws a prince ly revenue. At Ioannina his 
 levees are attended by the principal inhabitants, and his society is as 
 much courted as if he were a pasha himself. I have often seen him 
 mounted upon a richly caparisoned white charger, taking his morning 
 ride, followed by young men of the first Greek families in his train. 
 Many persons however augur no good from this ostentation, knowing 
 the capricious disposition of Ali, as well as that crafty policy of his 
 
 "Z'itov Si Ofiwai iraptVYiveov iv KavioiaiV 
 
 Oi % it' oviiui' tro'tfia irpoKiifieva ylipaz taXXor. 
 
 KSpot Si KpriTrjpae iirite^avTO irorow 
 
 Aurap itrii irooior Kai ecijrvos e£ tpov tvro 
 
 Myjjurijpcc, to'iuiv fiiv ill <j>pcalv «XXa fitfiriXtt, 
 
 MoXxi) t dpvijTuc TV (ra yap r dvac/mara Cairos - ) 
 
 Od.A. 136. 
 
VISIT OF CEREMONY TO THE VIZIR. 57 
 
 which leads him sometimes to strike down the towering eagle that the 
 smaller birds may be kept in awe : in the mean time Alessio sticks to 
 the old maxim of living whilst he can, endeavours to keep his master in 
 good humour, and sacrifices a part of his fortune to retain the rest. In 
 the list of our other visitors may be distinguished Signore Colovo, 
 the vizir's dragoman ; Signore Sakellario, one of his physicians, who 
 possesses a superb collection of coins and antiques, but seems totally 
 ignorant of the value they might acquire by arrangement, since he 
 keeps them all mixed together in a leathern bag, and looks at them as a 
 child does at his playthings ; Signore Giovanni Melas, who has been 
 already introduced to the reader's notice ; the two primates of the city; 
 Signore Stavro, a merchant of great opulence ; Demetrio Droso, chief 
 secretary of Mouchtar Pasha, whose mother is a branch of the noble Ve- 
 netian family of Maruzzi ; he came accompanied by two beautiful little 
 girls his daughters, the one five and the other six years old, whom we 
 made very happy by a present of some English toys. It is scarcely 
 possible to conceive any thing more lovely than these children : their 
 parents seem extremely fond of them, dressing them in the richest gar- 
 ments, carrying them in processions, and exhibiting them to stran- 
 gers, though they take good care to immure them from sight as soon as 
 their beauties begin to expand. 
 
 February 12. — This afternoon we thought proper to call and pay 
 our respects to the vizir after the extraordinary civilities we had re- 
 ceived. We found him at his serai of Litaritza, in his favourite little 
 Albanian room, the only one in which we ever saw him more than 
 once. His prime minister was with him, named Mahomet Effendi, a 
 silly old man who studies astrology and occult sciences till he thinks 
 himself gifted with inspiration, and will pore for many hours together 
 over an old globe, though he knows not whether the earth moves round 
 the sun, or the contrary : it would be well if he were content to pro- 
 nounce oracles upon science and politics ; but he is withal a violent bigot, 
 
 vol. 11. 1 
 
58 HIS SKILL IN GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 fierce and implacable against heretics or unbelievers, and ready to exe- 
 cute the most horrid commands of his despotic ruler. 
 
 The dress of the vizir both now and at other times appeared costly 
 but never gaudy ; his magnificence shone rather in the brilliants that 
 actually covered the walls of this apartment. He is extremely fond of 
 thus concentrating his wealth into a small compass ; certainly it is use- 
 ful to guard against the possible effects of a reverse of fortune : a little 
 before our arrival in his dominions he had purchased six pearls, said to 
 be the largest in Europe, and since our departure he has bought a dia- 
 mond from the ex-King of Sweden at the price of 13,000/., which, with 
 a number of others, he has had formed into a star, in imitation of one 
 which he saw upon the coat of Sir Frederic Adam : this he now wears 
 upon his breast, and calls it " his order." 
 
 He was in such good humour this day that he would not suffer us to 
 depart when we had finished our first pipe, but ordered a second and a 
 third : he spoke freely upon the reverses of Bonaparte, informed us of 
 the defection of Murat from the French cause, and called for a very 
 fine Turkish map of Europe that we might point out to him the geo- 
 graphical situation of the armies at this time contending about the 
 liberties of the world. He appeared very ignorant, like all the Turks, in 
 geography, not knowing where to look for Malta, or even for Ancona, 
 which it behoved him much to know as an important seaport opposite 
 his own coasts. 
 
 Dalmaticis obnoxia fluctibus Ancon. 
 
 Mr. Pouqueville indeed assured me, that Ali once questioned him 
 upon the expediency of sending a ship of war to be coppered and 
 rigged at Paris, and at another time wished the French army a fair 
 •wind to carry them to Vienna. Constantinople being a seaport, the 
 Turks presume to think that every other capital city must necessarily be 
 so too. Our conversation turned chiefly upon the great military events 
 
SHOOTING ON THE LAKE. 59 
 
 at this time pending, and he seemed well aware of the tottering power 
 of the French emperor : he spoke of his own wars as petty actions in 
 comparison with the extensive operations of the great continental 
 armies ; though subsequently, when I was better able to converse with 
 him in Romaic, he related some of his adventures with great apparent 
 satisfaction. He asked us how we liked his Albanian room, and upon 
 our expressing approbation of its comfortable appearance, he said, 
 with some degree of vanity, that in this he was his own architect. At 
 our leaving the palace he requested us to call frequently upon him, 
 and as usual made us an unqualified offer of all his possessions. 
 
 On the day after this interview we made a shooting excursion with 
 Giovanni Melas, and our two hosts : having received permission to shoot 
 in the upper region of the lake, which, according to the game laws 
 established by Mouchtar Pasha, is preserved for his private amuse- 
 ment, we had excellent sport, and Mr. Parker had the luck to shoot 
 what is called a thalassopuli, or bird of the sea. One or two of these 
 fowls are generally seen in every flock : it is nearly twice the size of a 
 duck, and is decked with a superb top-knot of scarlet feathers upon 
 its head, whilst its wings are beautifully variegated with purple and 
 white: it is sometimes called the "Pasha's bird," (ttsai ™ n«<n«) : no 
 one presumes to kill it if the pasha be present, but each endeavours to 
 procure him a shot by separating it from the rest, and whoever suc- 
 ceeds is sure of being liberally rewarded. We returned to dine upon 
 the island, in a very neat and comfortable mansion, and were so 
 pleased with our accommodations that we sent for our trunk-beds from 
 the city, and Antonietti to dress the wild-fowl. Next day we made a 
 second excursion upon the water, visiting several monasteries, and the 
 ruins of Gastrizza. In the evening, as we returned to Ioannina by 
 moonlight, I ordered my boat with Signore Nicolo, to row round the 
 precipices of the castron, which beautifully overhang the lake : as we 
 glided gently over the surface, and had just passed a high projecting 
 angle, we heard a sudden plunge, as if some heavy body had fallen into 
 
 I 2 
 
60 REVIEW OF ALBANIAN TROOPS, 
 
 the water. I inquired of Nicolo what this might be, who coolly replied, 
 " he supposed it was some incontinent lady tied up in her sack and 
 thrown over the rock;" for thus it is that the inhabitants of these 
 regions, in the solemn stillness of the night, hear — 
 
 Plunged amid the sullen waves, 
 The frequent corpse *. 
 
 We returned immediately to the spot, but the water was extremely 
 deep, and the unfortunate victim, if such it was, was then hid from 
 mortal view. We landed on the south side of the fortress, and in 
 passing through the narrow intricate lanes in this part of the city, we 
 observed the patrole carrying off a man to prison who had wounded 
 another in a quarrel. My guide assured me that these occurrences, 
 are very rare in Ioannina, since the vizir has instituted the strictest 
 police regulations, and acts with great impartiality, as far as regards 
 the different classes of his subjects, in punishing the disturbers of 
 public tranquillity. 
 
 Next morning after this excursion, we went to see a grand re- 
 view of Albanian troops, which for the last month had been drawn 
 together from all parts into the capital, to the terrible annoyance of 
 the poor inhabitants, upon whom they were quartered. It was sus- 
 pected that the vizir had some deep and important design in view, 
 upon which conjecture was very busy. The review, if such it can be 
 called, took place in the paddock adjoining the kiosk. The soldiers 
 stood conversing in groups, strolling about, or lying down upon the 
 ground, all except one regiment which contained many Franks, and was 
 
 * This punishment for the same crime seems once to have been known in England. See Chaucer's 
 Marchante's Tale, where May says to January, 
 
 And if I do that lakke, 
 Do stripen me and put me in a sakke, 
 And in the next river do me drench. 
 
 Col. Leake, in his Researches (p. 410), adduces some instances to prove that it existed also among the 
 ancient Greeks. 
 
REVIEW OF ALBANIAN TROOPS. (Jj 
 
 about half disciplined : to this a band of heterogeneous music was 
 attached. Mr. Pouqueville once asked AH how he procured these 
 musicians : his answer was — T a f 'Uxt^x " I stole them :" that is, he in- 
 duced them by promises and bribery, to desert from various regiments 
 in the Ionian islands. No military evolutions took place, but the 
 names of the men were called over, and those who wanted money for 
 arms or other accoutrements, or had great arrears of pay due to them, 
 or any grievances to complain of, were allowed to make their com- 
 plaints, or offer their petitions to the vizir, who sat in a small room 
 with large heaps of money near him, and his secretary by his side. 
 He once endeavoured to discipline more of his troops according to the 
 system of European tactics, but was too prudent to persevere in this 
 plan, when he saw how extremely adverse it was to the prejudices of 
 his Albanian palikars, and how it interfered with their customary and 
 almost natural system of warfare. The troops which struck us most in 
 this assemblage were the Miriditi or Mirdites, the bravest of all the 
 tribes settled in Albania, and who wear the red shawl, and the vest 
 a la Tancrede. They inhabit the country between Tiranna and 
 Alessio, bordering upon the pashalic of Scutari, and can arm 10,000 
 men against an invading enemy. They are supposed to be descend- 
 ants of those Latins who fled towards the west after their expulsion 
 from Constantinople by Lascaris, and those whom Roger II. king of 
 Apulia, employed in his unfortunate Thessalian expedition : their 
 language is full of Latin and Italian terms. They profess the Roman 
 Catholic rites, and are governed in religious matters by a bishop, called, 
 in their own language, Knez, and by priests sent from the Society de 
 Propaganda : they are much more intolerant and bigoted than either 
 their Turkish or Albanian neighbours; and very few instances ever 
 occur of their changing their religion. Their temporal chief is deno- 
 minated Pringlass : they live in small villages and are very poor, but 
 honest : they acknowledge the nominal authority of the pasha of 
 Scutari, and send him a small annual tribute; but they never admit 
 
£g OUR GENERAL MANNER OF LIVING. 
 
 his troops within their territories. The predecessor of their present, 
 chief v/as treacherously assassinated in the very palace of Scutari : 
 this one never enters the pasha's dominions without an escort of three 
 hundred men, fifty of whom attend him in the audience chamber, with 
 their hands upon the triggers of their muskets, ready to fire upon the 
 first appearance of treason. On another occasion the pasha hung one 
 of their priests, for which they immediately retaliated by catching and 
 gibbeting three Turkish dervishes. Ali has contrived to gain them 
 over to his interests by distributing presents among their chiefs and 
 priests, and giving double pay to the private individuals : he always 
 employs them in his most desperate undertakings, and I understand 
 that, without them, he would have found it difficult to have taken 
 Gardiki. We soon returned home from this exhibition to superintend 
 the operations of Antonietti, whom we had left preparing a dinner in 
 the Frank fashion, to which we had invited several of our Greek ac- 
 quaintance. 
 
 Our general style of living in Ioannina varied but little from that we 
 were accustomed to in our own country. We had coffee to breakfast, 
 and French bread from a baker established here by Mr. Pouqut-vilie, 
 with which we used an excellent substitute for butter in a species of 
 scalded cream called caimac*. At dinner we generally eat stewed 
 meats, varied with pilau, poultry, hares, partridges both of the com- 
 mon and the red-legged species, snipes, plover, and wild fowl ; of 
 these latter we shot so many, that after dressing them in every possible 
 manner, and even making pies of them, we became so tired of ducks, 
 that we distributed all in future amongst our friends. Mutton is 
 the best meat in this country : the beef is hard and void of fat : the 
 pork is often extremely good. I never recollect seeing veal at any 
 table whatever. For vegetables we generally eat boiled onions, the 
 cultivation of the potatoe not yet having been introduced at Ioan- 
 
 » Tbis cream is produced from the miJk of sheep and goats, but partieularly of the former. 
 
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE GREEKS. 6$ 
 
 nina ; but in the spring we procured very fine greens and lettuces : the 
 Greeks are as yet extremely deficient in the art of making cheese, it 
 being very salt and crumbling, without possessing any distinguishing 
 flavour: it is made from the milk of sheep and goats, which is turned by 
 a rennet from the intestines of a lamb : our wine was generally the pro- 
 duce of the islands, which is better than that made on this part of the 
 continent : in the evening we took a cup of coffee, and prepared our- 
 selves for repose by the narcotic influence of the most fragrant tobacco. 
 In this sj^stem we deviated from the habits of the people among whom 
 we sojourned. 
 
 The modern, like the ancient Greek, is abstemious in his mode of 
 living. He rises very early in the morning, the dawn of day being the 
 most delightful part of it in these climates, where all the business of 
 the market is generally done long before an Englishman has taken his 
 breakfast. After a pipe and cup of coffee, with which alone the 
 Greek breaks his fast, he saunters about, calls upon his friends, or at- 
 tends to business till noon, when his principal meal is served up : he 
 generally takes this with his family alone, friends being rarely invited, 
 except on particular festive occasions like a marriage or the anniver- 
 sary of a birth-day. The fare consists of boiled rice, sometimes mixed 
 with oil and vinegar, vegetables dressed with oil. an article which enters 
 largely into all their dishes, mutton baked with almonds or pistachio 
 nuts, stewed meats, pilau, olives called columbades, thin pastry made 
 of eggs, flour and honey : the wine of the country is generally drank, 
 and the fruits of the season are served up as a dessert : the dishes are 
 placed separately upon the table, and each member of the family Ik lps 
 himself with fork, or spoon, or fingers, out of the same receptacle*. 
 
 * The times of taking food seem to correspond very accurately with those observed by the ancients, 
 viz. the api-ov early in the morning, the duirvov in the middle of the day, and the cip-rov in tfifi even- 
 ing, according to Athenaus (lib i. c. 10.) who quotes the following fragment of /Eschylus in support 
 of the fact. 
 
64 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE GREEKS. 
 
 After dinner the females retire to the gi/nekaios, and the men indulge 
 in a siesta; in the afternoon visits are generally made or received, at 
 which sweetmeats, pipes and coffee are presented to the guests. If the 
 weather be fine, parties are made to walk in the environs of the city, to 
 row upon the lake, to visit the island, or the monasteries on its banks, 
 and about sunset they return to supper, which, for the most part, is a 
 very frugal meal. At some houses cards are introduced, and many 
 French and Italian games are in vogue. This amusement was very 
 common at the mansion of Signore Alessio, from which our host Ni- 
 colo frequently returned with lighter pockets. Those who rise early 
 generally retire early to rest, and this is the case with the Greeks, who 
 rarely keep late hours. 
 
 We were now in the latter end of the carnival, when the severity of 
 the police laws is a little relaxed, and the inhabitants are allowed to 
 parade the streets at all hours of the night, singing to their guitars, after 
 having sacrificed to Bacchus. As the upper ranks indulge now and then 
 in masquerading at their convivial parties during this season, we en- 
 
 XXtov 2" eiScvai $«Lp«7a 
 "Apcra, £i~nrva, <Sdp7ra ff aiptiaSat, rpUf 
 
 This distribution is also confirmed by Julius Pollux (lib. vi. c. 17.) who says the first meal was called 
 api^ov, the second fotirvov, and the third, which only certain persons and not all took, ra i?op7ra, idpiros, or 
 coprifroe - it is also the case among the modern Greeks that many abstain from this meal. The gourmand 
 of ancient times appear to have eat four times a day, since Philemon quoted by Athenaeus (inloc. cit.) 
 speaks of the dKpdriafia, ape?oi', i(nripiafia, and h'nrvov. In the heroic ages two meals seem to have 
 sufficed, the first called aV-panir^a or api^ov (for Plutarch, Symp. 1. viii. Q. vi. thinks the terms syno- 
 nymous, arguing from Eumaeus in the Odyssey preparing the apisov at the dawn of day) and the cfiTrcoi', 
 taken after the business of the day was over, 7 H/«>c Hi BpvTOfiog Tcep dvi]p unr\ioaTohei-Kvov. Civilization, 
 with its consequent luxury, introduced three general meals ; but the nebulones or bon-vivants indulged in 
 four, whilst some abstemious venerators of antiquity adhered to two. I cannot agree with the opinion 
 of those who think that at any time the ancients made only one meal, except a few eccentric charac- 
 ters, called fiovooiTuvrtg, whom we find ridiculed on this very account by the satiric poets (vid. frag. 
 Alexid. apud Athenaeum, 1. ii. c. 8.) Those of the ancients, who ate thrice a day, seem, like the moderns, 
 to have made but one hearty meal, the first and second being slight repasts, just sufficient to prevent 
 uneasy sensations, the effects of fasting, since we find Plato severely reprehending the Syracusaus, who 
 dined and supped freely on the same day, and Cicero inveighs against the Romans, who encouraged a 
 similar practice. 
 
MA.RRIAGE PROCESSION OF ONE OF ALPS CONCUBINES. $5 
 
 tercd into the spirit of the custom, and arrayed ourselves in assumed 
 characters, Nicolo as an English officer, Mr. Parker as a Turk, and 
 mj'self as an old Greek lady, decked out in the rich .velvet clothes of 
 our venerable hostess. My two companions were frequently discovered, 
 but my own disguise was so complete that we nearly made the whole 
 circuit of our visits before I was unmasked : this occurred in the last 
 house we entered, belonging to a sister-in-law of Signore Nicolo : 
 here I was at first permitted freely to sit amongst a large party of fe- 
 males, until a fine young girl, named Alessandra, eyeing me attentively, 
 cried out, I»mu av^w™?, " it is a man," and the whole party scampered 
 off as if they had been stung by a gad-fly, hiding themselves in every 
 nook and corner of the house. 
 
 The same evening, after changing our dress, we witnessed a very ex- 
 traordinary marriage procession from the window of another of Nico- 
 lo's relatives. I never recollect seeing such a crowd in the streets of 
 Ioannina as on this occasion, which was the deportation of one of 
 Ali's own concubines from his harem to the house of an officer to whom 
 he had given her in marriage. One would have thought it impossible 
 that a victim who had escaped from the bars of such a prison, in which 
 sensuality reigns without love, luxury without taste, and slavery with- 
 out remission, could have complied so far with custom as to walk, in 
 the first ecstasies of liberty, with a motion not much quicker than the 
 minute hand of a town-clock : she was attended by no persons of her 
 own sex, but her train-bearer and supporters were Albanian soldiers, 
 friends of her future spouse ; from the great number of torches carried 
 in procession, we were enabled to get a perfect view of her face, which 
 was by no means handsome: her figure was very lusty, but this 
 amongst the Turks is considered more beautiful than the proportions 
 of the Medicean Venus. She was superbly attired, but we were 
 informed that the pearls and brilliants which adorned her head and 
 neck were only lent for the occasion, and would be returned next day 
 
 VOL. II. K 
 
66 ALI'S HAREM. 
 
 to the seraglio. The dress she wore, and two other suits, which, to- 
 gether with the furniture of the bridal bed were carried after her by the 
 Albanian guards, was all the dowry she received from her former 
 master. 
 
 It is not by any means an unusual thing with Ali Pasha thus to dis- 
 pose of the females of his harem ; he gives them not only to his Turkish 
 Greek and Albanian retainers, but very willingly to Franks who enter 
 into his service. At Tepeleni we saw two Italian gardeners who had 
 been thus generously provided with consorts : but, as I have before ob- 
 served, he is free from many Turkish prejudices, and is very ready to 
 dispense with any forms, civil or religious, if he thinks his own interest 
 can be thereby promoted : perhaps some of my readers may not give 
 him much credit for liberality in this case, when they are informed that 
 he possesses about oOOfemale victims, guarded by eunuchs,and immured 
 within the impenetrable recesses of his harem ; though it may be sup- 
 posed that most of these are retained merely to augment his dignity*, 
 and to wait upon his favourites. Before age had chilled his blood his 
 sensuality was unbounded. Wherever his satellites heard of a beauti- 
 ful chiid, of either sex, they dragged it from the paternal roof, and 
 massacred the family or burned the village if any resistance was 
 offered. One of his most beautiful females was torn from the hymeneal 
 altar whilst she was pledging her vows to a fine young man, son of the 
 primate of Vonizza, who, unable to bear the loss, or to avenge it, blew 
 out his own brains with his pistol. Such disgusting scenes are reported 
 
 * Thus it seems to have been in ancient times, to instance only Agamemnon, of whose harem, men- 
 tioned in the following lines of Homer, 
 
 nXttai rot ^aXcS n\i(rlai TroXXat Be yvvaiKeg 
 Eiirii' ivt kXkt/jjc efatperoi, ac rot A'j(aiot 
 npwriorw SiSo/xev 
 
 Aristotle makes the following remark : 'AXX' hk Iiko£ «e \gr\atv eji/at to irXij^or tuv Vwcukuv, a'XX" 
 ficyqpae' Ath«n«ei, lib. xii. p. 556. 
 
HIS COURT AND OFFICERS. 67 
 
 to be acted within his harem, and especially that of his son Mouchtar, 
 as are little fit for description in these pages : even the Turks themselves 
 are accustomed to speak of them with astonishment and abhorrence. 
 His present favourite is a young Greek slave, named Vasilikee, born 
 at Paramithia and brought up in the serai from a child : she is said 
 to be extremely beautiful, and bears an excellent character for charity ; 
 her kind disposition is frequently shewn in mitigating the severities of 
 her lordly lover over his subjects. In her patronage also she has been 
 thought remarkably judicious, for greatest part of the offices about 
 court and other provincial appointments are settled in the harem, 
 where Turkish and Greek ladies daily attend to visit the inmates, 
 and to promote the views of their husbands and relations. Wherever 
 Ali goes Vasilikee constantly attends him ; she has retained his affec- 
 tions longer than any other woman, and in 1816 he married her with 
 great pomp and ceremony, and permits her to retain her own religious 
 rites and doctrines. At Tepeleni also there is an establishment of 
 women, over which the mother of Salee Bey, a Circassian slave, for- 
 merly a favourite mistress and still highly respected by the vizir, pre- 
 sides. 
 
 In other respects Ali's court is supported with a great degree of 
 splendour and expense far exceeding those of many princes in the Ger- 
 manic confederacy. I was informed that provisions were cooked in his 
 palaces at Ioannina for near 1500 persons daily, amongst whom are 
 found visiters and retainers from all parts of the globe, attracted hither 
 by his fame, and whose services he seldom refuses to accept. At the 
 time of our residence he had for a guest one of the khans or princes of 
 Persia. 
 
 His three principal secretaries of state were at this time old Mahomet 
 Effendi the astrologer, chief of the divan, who had the general manage- 
 ment of affairs in his master's absence*; Sechri Effendi, the most violent 
 
 * This old gentleman is since dead. 
 K 2 
 
68 HIS COURT AND OFFICERS. 
 
 Mahometan bigot in Ali's dominions, who generally accompanies him 
 in his excursions and executes his most important commissions ; Dwann 
 Effendi, who carries on his correspondence with the Porte, for which 
 purpose a capi-kehagia or procurator is appointed at Constantinople. 
 Besides these he has four under-secretaries, all Greeks, whose business 
 it is to correspond with the beys, agas, and governors in the different 
 Albanian provinces ; the two first of these named Mantho and Costa 
 are men of the most crafty and subtile disposition, the ready instru- 
 ments of all the pasha's schemes of vengeance and of power*. 
 
 His two dragomen, or interpreters, are also Greeks, the first Sig- 
 nore Colovo, and the second Beyzady, the son of a prince of the 
 Fanar. 
 
 He has four regular physicians, who serve him also in the capacity 
 of secretaries and interpreters, as occasion may require: for every 
 person attached to Ali's service must be able to walk out of his own 
 particular course. 
 
 Besides all these, there are many sage counsellors who take their 
 places at his divan, though they are not dignified by any peculiar 
 office : in these he places the most implicit confidence, for they are 
 all tried men. The principal of them are Mezzo Bonno, Dervish 
 Hassan, Agho Mordari, and Athanasi Vaya, his favourite and most 
 successful general, who might indeed be styled commander in chief. 
 This person is intrusted with his master's most intimate secrets, and has 
 free access to him in the hours of his most perfect retirement. 
 
 In addition to the above-mentioned officers employed in affairs of 
 council he has a multitude who attend to those of ceremony. There 
 is the 
 
 Selictar-Aga, who carries the sword of state, 
 
 * Vely Pasha after his reconciliation with his father so abhorred these men that he requested as a 
 favour that his correspondence with the vizir might not be carried on through their agency. Mantho 
 •vas his agent in the affair of Parga. 
 
HIS COURT AND OFFICERS. 69 
 
 Bairactar-Aga, who carries the standard, 
 
 Devichtar-Aga, who carries the inkstand, and 
 
 Mouchourdar-Aga, who bears the signet. 
 
 The Capi-Baloukbashee lodges in the palace and superintends the 
 police-guards. 
 
 The Ibroghor-Aga is the chief groom of the stables. 
 
 The Capsilar-Aga is master of the ceremonies. 
 
 The Caftan-Aga throws the pelisse over such as are so honoured 
 by the vizir. 
 
 The Rachtivan-Aga has the care of the silver bridles and housings 
 for the stud. 
 
 The Shatir-Agas are four in number, who attend the vizir in pro- 
 cessions, carrying a species of halbert by the side of his horse. 
 
 The two Bouchurdan-Agas perfume him when he goes to mosque. 
 
 The Shamdan-Aga. precedes the wax candles into the apartment. 
 
 The Sofrageebashi sets out the table. 
 
 The Ibriktar-Aga pours the water from the golden pitcher over the 
 vizir's hands, and the Macramageebashi holds the towels. 
 
 The Peskir-Aga throws the silken shawls round him and his guests. 
 
 The Cafigeebashi superintends the coffee, and the Tutungeebashi the 
 pipes. 
 
 Two high officers are the Mechterbashi or chief of the band, and 
 the Tatar-Aga, who is at the head of one hundred tatars. 
 
 There are about twenty Chaoushes, and the same number of Kai- 
 vasis, who carry silver-knobbed sticks before the vizir in procession, 
 and are the porters or keepers of his door : whenever he puts to death 
 a great man he sends a Kaivasi to act as executioner. 
 
 The house-steward or officer who superintends the general expences 
 is called Vechilhargi, and has many subordinate persons under him. 
 
 It would be tedious to pursue this detail further, neither can I 
 answer for the accurate orthography of all the names already quoted, 
 
70 HIS COURT AND OFFICERS. 
 
 though I took them down with as much care as possible from the 
 mouth of a person high in office at the seraglio. 
 
 In addition to his proper officers, the court of AH is crowded with a 
 multitude of dependants and others, skilled in every art of adulation 
 and mean compliance. Some of these turn him to good account by 
 working upon his superstition. At this very time a Turkish dervish 
 and a Greek artisan had conspired together to cheat him, and had 
 persuaded him they were able to make a panacea or essence which 
 should render him immortal : they had been working a long time in 
 the serai with crucibles and alembics, and will probably continue to 
 gain money from him for their pretended preparations, until death 
 shall cure all his complaints. 
 
 The retinue of Mouchtar Pasha is very large, though inconsiderable 
 when compared with that of his father. He supports two hundred 
 officers and others of his household, and a thousand troops or Alba- 
 nian guards. His annual income is estimated at about 350,000 
 dollars, though the vizir takes to himself the greatest part of his re- 
 venue from the pashalic of Berat. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 State of Literature in Ioannina — Romaic Language — Turkish Society — 
 Anecdote of a Greek Papas — Vespers at the Cathedral — Church of 
 Sta. Marina — Vizir's Bath — End of Carnival — Tyrannical Acts of 
 Ali Pasha — Tenure of Land in Albania— Chiflicks — Comparative State 
 of Albania with the rest of Turkey — Greek Funeral — Expedition of 
 Ali against Parga — Dinner with Mr. Pouqueville — All's Council — 
 Visit to Mouchtar Pasha — Occurrence at his Serai — Festival at the 
 Church of St. Theodore — Greek Superstitions, Clergy, §c. 
 
 IT may perhaps be expected that I should say something respecting 
 the literary society of Ioannina: but to confess the truth, I saw very 
 little to describe; and if this city is called by some writers the Athens 
 of modern Greece, I must own the term seems to me no bad specimen 
 of the figure of speech called amplification. 
 
 Literature throughout Greece is but beginning to awake from 
 that lethargy in which she has lain so many centuries: at present her 
 motion is feeble and weak, she creeps on with torpid languor instead 
 of soaring aloft, as formerly, in eagle flight. The minds of the people 
 have been too long debased with sordid cares, and fettered too heavily 
 with the manacles of despotic power, for sublime aspirations at present; 
 they no longer possess, nor can they possess, that creative fire of genius, 
 that untrodden soul (the v^w afi*™) which characterized their great 
 prcgenitors. In their writings we observe at present only feeble copies of 
 the ancients, or vain attempts at originality, wherein all true taste and 
 simplicity is violated. Elaborate truisms, superficial remarks, metaphy- 
 2 
 
7g STATE OF LITERATURE IN IOANNINA. 
 
 sical absurdities, inaccurate details deform the pages of their historian*, 
 politicians and philosophers, whose writings give but little colour to 
 policy, consistency to facts, or propriety to character; whilst the tire 
 and spirit, the igneus vigor et calestis origo, of antiquity, is totally ab- 
 sent from the conceptions and expressions of their poets. 
 
 Yet is not this said for the purpose of censure so much as of com- 
 miseration. In estimating the literary character of a people, we must 
 take into consideration the circumstances which surround them. 
 Nothing is great but by comparison, and if we perceive the modern 
 Greeks deficient in that powerful talent, that extent of information, 
 that accuracy of criticism, that eloquence and discriminating judgment 
 which distinguish the polished capitals of civilized Europe, we must re- 
 flect also upon their misfortunes and debasement, we must remember 
 that security is necessary for speculative abstraction, that the prin- 
 ciples of truth are essential to eloquence, that independence of charac- 
 ter is the nurse of Science, and that Poesy extends her impetuous 
 flight only upon the wings of Liberty. But in these unfortunate realms, 
 where tyranny has so long been established, suspicion, like the sword 
 of Damocles, has uniformly banished joy from the hearts of the people ; 
 self-interest, and the acquisition of wealth, have been their ruling 
 passions; superstition has long lent its assistance in blunting all the 
 energies of mind; few have been the aids which education has given 
 to talent ; few the rewards proposed to emulation. 
 
 Still it would be wrong to say that the germ of genius no longer ex- 
 ists among the Greeks, whilst the substratum of their character seems 
 to remain very similar to that of their ancestors. We may remark in 
 the moderns the same perspicacity and pliability which distinguished 
 the ancients, the same ingenuity in supplanting a rival, the same ap- 
 petency for honours and distinctions however dangerous, the same de- 
 sire of pomp and magnificence, the same liveliness and gaiety of heart 
 when relieved from the presence of tyranny : the chief difference 
 seems effected by external circumstances ; the ancients were masters. 
 
ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 73 
 
 but the moderns are slaves ; those moved in conscious dignity over a 
 land immortalized by their valour, these are obliged to bow the neck 
 beneatli the foot of every petty tyrant. In such an atmosphere it is 
 impossible for genius to bloom; yet when her scions are transplanted 
 into a more genial climate we find them vigorous and full of sap* ; and 
 whilst such noble-minded men as the Zosimades continue to pour the 
 stream of bounty over their native land, planting the seed, though the 
 time of harvest may be far distant, and whilst such patriotic souls as 
 that of the venerable Korai exert their energies to infuse purity into the 
 language, good taste into the writings, and generosity into the senti- 
 ments of their countrymen, we need not despair. Knowledge is in- 
 creasing and will increase ; with knowledge not only the desire of free- 
 dom but the fitness for it will increase also ; true patriotism will 
 spread through all ranks ; and when Greece shall escape from bondage 
 corporeal and intellectual, then its genius will revive ; the Memnonian 
 statue, now mute, when struck by the rays of Liberty will again utter 
 its harmonious sounds. 
 
 Perhaps there is no part of Greece where its language has been pre- 
 served in greater purity than the mountainous districts of Epirus, or 
 where more efforts have been made to restore it than in Ioannina. It 
 is here much less mixed with Oriental barbarisms, or exotic Frank 
 and Italian terms. Though the Romaic in its idioms, terminations, and 
 phraseology has never departed so far from its original, as the Italian has 
 from its mother tongue, it may be doubted whether this be an ad- 
 vantage or the contrary. The latter language, after a succession of 
 foreign intermixtures and a variety of changes, was regenerated, as it 
 were, in the sudden regeneration of the people, and assumed at once a 
 noble consistency, copious expression, and delightful harmony : but the 
 former has remained, and must ever remain, a debased enervated dia- 
 
 * The transcendant abilities of Ugo Foscolo, a Grecian born, but educated in Italy, may be cited a» 
 
 an illustration of this truth. 
 VOL. II 
 
74 ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 
 
 lect of the most glorious language ever yet formed by the ingenuity of 
 mankind, eclipsed for ever by the brightness of its original. Still the 
 i I its made to repair its defects and eradicate its barbarisms are ex- 
 tremely praiseworthy, especially since every good composition we can 
 expect from the modern Greeks must be written in Romaic: if they 
 attempt the HeHenic they will surely fail : no language can well express 
 the genuine dictates of the heart in the eloquence of genius, but that to 
 which we have been accustomed from our infancy, that in which we 
 have listened to the accents of maternal tenderness, the admonitions of 
 paternal care, the sentiments of friendship, or the soft whispers of a still 
 sweeter affection. 
 
 Yet reform in the Romaic language, like all other reforms, ought 
 to be gradual and not violent. Above all things it must not be com- 
 mitted to such a set of radical reformers as appeared no long time ago 
 in Ioannina, who formed themselves into a committee of management 
 for this purpose, and published a number of small works in their new- 
 fangled dialect, the ?o^cwn y\o<rx, as they chose to call it; in which, by 
 universal consent, they banished poor w from his alphabetic associates 
 for no fault at all ; i for that system of iotacism to which he had given 
 rise ; punished the diphthongs «i and «, by making them change places 
 with t and n, whose sound they had usurped, using /3 for u wherever this 
 latter was pronounced as a consonant, with many other alterations, 
 which may be observed in the ode which I have subjoined, composed 
 by the physician Velara, who was at the head of this association. 
 His principal coadjutors were Signore Psalida, and an ignorant pre- 
 tender in the medical line named Sakellario, who writes sonnets upon 
 love and ladies' eye-brows, in default of prescriptions. The species of 
 reform introduced by these innovators would soon put a final stop to 
 all improvement in the language. 
 
 ■ Non defensoribus istis, 
 
 Tempus eget. 
 
ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 
 
 75 
 
 But let the Romaic scholar judge for himself*. 
 
 1. rfaXaici) ijfJ'o 
 Siyt)Ttfievo 
 IIbX); yafiivo 
 
 n» va <ra£o; 
 
 n« va Ka^rjao 
 Na fyvriyrrioo 
 
 Na ^17; x a *°J 
 
 4. Kjjrafo t aypa 
 IleXia ££/3yapjj 
 Afrriv ti\ ya.pi\ 
 
 Aev t\o ffXta. 
 
 Nijicra //e Stpij 
 Me ^ijx°C rt P"l 
 
 Xopjje ^oXta. 
 
 nXaiT). 
 
 2. Bpaciaf ij '/UEpa' 
 Ztora^t; ff£p>j, 
 K.E Si)X<>Q Ttpr\, 
 
 IIb va ?a5o ; 
 
 llti va <pu\uiao 
 
 Na /*ij xa$o ; 
 
 5. Vripr)£o vafipo 
 IIb va Ka$r)<ro 
 Na i,evr)^Ti]ao 
 Kavfiovaxp' 
 
 KaSt KXtjpamj 
 Ba<ra 7raXaKj/ 
 Ze/Jyaporo" 
 
 3. 'II 'fiepa ijttpyrj 
 'H vuvra /3iaf») 
 Na ti<Tnx a ^V 
 
 KaSe ;tbXj)* 
 
 'Eyo ?£vafo 
 To r£p»; Kpafo 
 
 StVOTtuXl)' 
 
 6. Aev fit yvopirfuv 
 K' ecSo ^e iioyvuv 
 K' ectj ^1' aTroxvHr' 
 n« va Ta5oj 
 
 Aj(! toc va ysvo* 
 IIb va TrqyEvo, 
 
 Na fit) x a ~" 5 
 
 The style of conversation amongst a people is generally found to be 
 a good criterion of their literature ; and as I have before observed, that 
 of Ioannina, though superior to what is met with in the rest of Greece, 
 is not much distinguished for brilliancy and flow of soul. We cer- 
 tainly met with many persons who had improved their manners by an 
 inspection of foreign countries, as well as their faculties by the acqui- 
 
 * I have neither time nor inclination to enter into a long discussion respecting the origin and pro- 
 gress of the Romaic language and literature : neither could I add much to the copious account 
 already given by Col. Leake in his ' Researches in Greece,' a work which is well worth the attention of 
 all who intend to prosecute inquiries in this branch of literature, or who are desirous of travelling in 
 Greece with advantage. I think however that the modern dialect, or Romaic, might easily be shewn to 
 have been chiefly formed from the writings of ecclesiastics, and the text of the New Testament : num- 
 berless terms for the common articles of life are derived from that source, where indeed very near ap- 
 proaches are found to the Romaic infinitive, and to the use of the auxiliary verbs ; besides numerous 
 examples of Latin and other foreign words, Grecized and incorporated into the new dialect by a mere 
 literal change. With regard to the present confusion of accent and quantity, or the way in which the 
 ancients themselves distinguished them, I know nothing about the subject, and never met with any 
 person who did. 
 
 L 2 
 
76 TURKISH SOCIETY. 
 
 sition of modern languages and some few other accomplishments , 
 but we neither saw nor heard of any that were noted for attainments 
 beyond mediocrity : we found some who had gained a smattering of 
 philosophy, falsely so called, and who had paid very dear for it by 
 acquiring a scepticism on more serious subjects. Upon the whole 
 therefore, the chief interest in the society of Ioannina is derived from 
 novelty, and when this wears off, nothing succeeds to relieve its mono- 
 tony, agitate the stagnant ideas, and occupy the faculties of a reflec- 
 tive being; no musical or theatrical exhibitions, no exhibitions of the 
 fine arts, no political discussion, no courts of law, not even a new 
 book or a pamphlet ; for neither a printing press nor a bookseller's 
 shop is to be found in this capital *. 
 
 For the sake of variety we sometimes paid visits of ceremony to some 
 of the Turkish beys and agas, by whom we were invariably received 
 with urbanity and politeness. We generally found the master of the 
 house seated, according to custom, at the corner of his divan, dressed 
 in that rich oriental garb, whose graceful folds confine, without dis- 
 figuring the limbs : pipes and coffee, sherbet and sweetmeats, were 
 always introduced as a matter of course, and the conversation, though 
 it might not be enlivened by that play of fancy in which its greatest 
 charm consists, was frequently rendered interesting by the sensible and 
 acute observations of our dignified host. 
 
 The Turk, though he applies neither to philosophy nor science, is 
 well versed in the knowledge of the human heart, inasmuch as he 
 studies men much more than books, and he frequently displays a per- 
 spicacity of intellect, which, with due cultivation, might enable him to 
 shine a distinguished ornament of society. The most insuperable 
 obstacle to his progress in refinement is the system of his religious 
 faith ; this is so identified with his political institutions, as to fix an 
 
 * Books however may sometimes be procured at the shops of different trades: for instance, I my- 
 self purchased a Romaic translation of the Persian Tales at the window of a tobacconist. 
 
ANECDOTE OF A GREEK PAPAS. 77 
 
 indelible stamp upon all his habits, manners, and customs, which ac- 
 cordingly are found at the present day to vary very little, if at all, 
 from the accounts transmitted to us by Besbequius and other early 
 writers. 
 
 Feb. 19- — This morning we received a letter, dated Prevesa, from 
 Mr. Foresti, who had left loannina for that place several days before; 
 and we were highly gratified by the intelligence of our army having 
 passed the Pyrenees and entered France. This departure of the 
 English envoy, the great accumulation of troops in the capital, the 
 employment of a large body of Miriditi, together with several obscure 
 hints from Mr. Pouqueville, all announced that some important 
 action was near at hand, and various rumours were afloat upon the 
 subject. 
 
 After breakfast I made an excursion upon the lake with Signore 
 Nicolo, and in returning shot a fine eagle just as he was about to pounce 
 upon a duck : this bird measured five feet eight inches from the extre- 
 mities of his extended wings, and three feet two inches from the beak to 
 the end of his claws: poor Antonietti in attempting to take him up 
 received bloody marks of his talons upon his hand ; he was then se- 
 cured by one of the boatmen. On landing we were met by a priest 
 with a long black beard, and a box, into which he requested us to put 
 alms for the Panagia. I begged Signore Nicolo to repeat to him the 
 reply of Antisthenes upon a similar occasion : 'Ou rpi/pu th\ f*Wf« rw Sew 
 n» e» Beat -rp^o-n*- " For which," replied the papas in his zealous indig- 
 nation, " he is undoubtedly damned ;" appealing to Signore Nicolo 
 for a confirmation of his assertion : Nicolo however, who is rather scep- 
 tical on these points, chose to leave the matter in doubt with the in- 
 terrogative answer, ttcTo; uin t " who can tell V 
 
 In the afternoon we went to hear vespers or evening service at the 
 cathedral, called the Metropolis, adjoining to which is the palace of the 
 archbishop: the edifice itself is neither large nor handsome; all that 
 can be said of the chaunting is, that it was not disagreeable, though, 
 
78 VIZIR'S BATH— END OF CARNIVAL. 
 
 like the Greek singing in general, it was much indebted to the nasal 
 organs of the performers : the women were all separated from the men 
 in a gallery appropriated to them at the west end of the church, whose 
 thick lattice-work hides ail particular observation from the male con- 
 gregation below. From hence we adjourned to the church dedicated to 
 Santa Marina, which was founded by the father of our host, old Anas- 
 tasi Bretto: this is the handsomest place of Christian worship that we 
 saw in Turkey, and as profusely adorned with gilding as the second 
 rate churches of Spain and Portugal. The singing was just concluded, 
 but a deacon observing our entrance, came up with a large silver plate, 
 upon which lay a wax taper and two pictures of the patron saint : we 
 deposited thereon two dollars, and received in return each a picture; 
 probably the offerings were not thought considerable enough to de- 
 serve the taper. 
 
 At night I went to the public bath, whilst Mr. Parker, who had long 
 been disgusted with its filthy appearance, adjourned to one which is 
 annexed to the palace of the vizir : but the state of his clothes when he 
 returned home evidently proved that in this country no rank is a pro- 
 tection against the intrusion of certain animaicuiae that carry on a con- 
 stant war against mankind. This being the last day of carnival we 
 were kept awake great part of the night by drunken parties of Greeks 
 and Albanians, who seemed eager to seize that shadow of gaiety to 
 which the real austerities of superstition were so soon about to succeed : 
 the night was rainy, yet even this could not damp the ardour with 
 which Bacchus had inspired them. 
 
 We were this time particularly unfortunate, for at the very dawn of 
 day, when the Bacchanals had retired and we were just beginning to 
 enjoy the comfort of repose, the loud and piercing shrieks of iem.le 
 distress prompting the idea that nothing less than murder was goiag 
 forward under the roof, impelled us instantaneously from our beds : 
 but before we had advanced so far as the outer gallery, whence the 
 noise proceeded, Antonietti met and informed us that all this outer;; 
 
 3 
 
TYRANNICAL ACTS OF ALI PASHA. 79 
 
 arose from our old hostess, Nicolo's mother, to whom his highness the 
 vizir had that morning sent a present of ten kiloes of wheat. He had 
 scarcely finished his speech belbre the old lady herself ran up howling 
 and crossing herself, entreating us to have compassion upon her and 
 interfere in her behalf with the pasha. We were at first quite astonished 
 how all this affliction could be caused by so handsome a gift, and 
 were inclined to reproach her with madness or ingratitude, until the 
 bystanders informed us that this present must be paid for at double the 
 market price, and that the messenger was then in the house waiting for 
 the money. Upon this the old lady began to renew her lamentations, 
 which we thought best to quiet by assisting her in paying for the 
 wheat, rather than by annoying the vizir in what he might think 
 an impertinent application. We found also that the calamity was 
 common to all the inhabitants of Ioannina, each of whom had re- 
 ceived a present according to his reputed means or the esteem in 
 which he was held by his sovereign. The great extent of this avania 
 tended still more to strengthen our conjectures that some im- 
 portant blow was about to be struck ; for Ali never engages in 
 an expedition or levies any troops without contriving some s ;ch 
 method as this for the ways and means. Sometimes he takes similar 
 measures merely to increase the contents of his treasury and improve 
 his finances : once however he had nearly gone too far even for the 
 most obdurate patience and well-practised slavery to bear. This 
 occurred in the year 181'J, when he took advantage of a deficient 
 harvest to establish a monopoly of corn, prohibiting at the same time 
 its importation from the fertile plains of Thessaly, whence Epirus is 
 always in some measure supplied. On the 2'3d of June the poor 
 people were reduced to such an extremity that they assembled in vast 
 crowds around the serai of Litaritza, unawed by the presence of the 
 tyrant, and with the most clamorous importunities demanded bread 
 or death. One of the Albanian guards, of the tribe of Dgeges, fired 
 his pistol amongst the multitude, and the rest were on the point of 
 
80 TYRANNICAL ACTS OF ALT PASHA. 
 
 following his example; but Ali foresaw the consequences, and was 
 alarmed; he ordered them to forbear, hung up the offender instantly 
 in sight of all the people, and told them that if they would disperse 
 they should be satisfied. They did so, and he sent 2000 horse-loads of 
 wheat immediately to be sold at a very low price, lowered his demand 
 for the contents of his store-houses, and opened the communication 
 with Thessaly. About a fortnight after this affair, determining not to 
 be a loser by his humanity, he laid a heavy contribution upon all the 
 principal Turks of Ioannina who derived any salary or emolument 
 from his government. His own son, Mouchtar Pasha, was made to 
 pay 150 purses; Gelalim Bey, and Mahomet Bey of Kastoria, two 
 very rich men, disbursed twenty each; old Mahomet and Sechri 
 Effendi fifteen ; Agho Mordari, Mezzo Bono, and Dervish Hassan 
 were amerced in twelve, and others in due proportion. 
 
 For these contributions, vexatious as they appear, he may have 
 some plea, of financial regulation ; but the tricks to which he some- 
 times descends for the purpose of amassing money, are so mean and 
 absurd as to be quite unworthy of one who assumes the character of a 
 sovereign. For instance, he wishes to borrow a large loan from his 
 subjects; he orders them to pay it in gold, and lie returns it in silver, 
 not according to the value of this metal at Ioannina, but at Constan- 
 tinople, where it bears a much less ratio to that of gold. 
 
 He once purchased at a very reduced price a cargo of coffee, which 
 had been totally spoiled by the entrance of the sea water into an 
 English brig. He then sent for some coffee-dealers and Jews of Ioan- 
 nina, and thus opened the conference with the principal tradesman: 
 
 " At what price now is coffee, Murrie*?" 
 
 " Please your highness, we purchase it at Malta for three piastres 
 
 * The expression is one which he constantly uses to almost all that approach him : it is one, not 
 quite of contempt, but of a familiarity that borders on it, and is only used by a superior to his inferior 
 in rank : it is derived from the vocative of the Greek word [iiapog. 
 
TENURE OF LAND IN ALBANIA. 81 
 
 the pound, but the freight and duties oblige us to sell it again for four 
 and a half." 
 
 " Well, Murrie, I have some excellent coffee which I will sell you 
 at five piastres, by which you will avoid all trouble and risk." 
 
 " Please your highness, we have a great quantity at this time on 
 hand, and it is quite a drug in the market." 
 
 " Haithe haithe, keratades — get out, you horned rascals, you shall 
 purchase it for six." 
 
 It is almost needless to add that the coffee was sent and the money 
 paid. On a similar occasion he sold some hundred dozens of sword 
 blades which he had purchased from a villain who, not being able to 
 sell them on account of the badness of their manufacture, went to the 
 vizir and offered them to him at half price. In like manner he bought 
 a large assortment of watches made to sell, as well as snuff-boxes, 
 rings, and toys, from a travelling Geneva merchant. He then sent 
 for the Archbishop of loannina — " Here is a watch for you, very 
 beautiful and very excellent: I expect that to-morrow you will make 
 me a present of sixty sequins." 
 
 The two Greek primates next received each a gratuitous snuff-box, 
 and almost every Greek possessed of wealth and reputation in the 
 place, was gratified by his sovereign's gracious condescension and 
 a present, with which, after receiving it in silence, he touched his fore- 
 head and lips, in token of respect, and departed. 
 
 These however are only a few trifling modes of tyranny with which 
 Ali amuses himself in drawing money out of the pockets of his sub- 
 jects. His grand and truly oppressive system is that of the chiflicks : 
 this will best be understood if I explain the tenure under which land in 
 Albania is held. All the villages then are either free villas or chiflicks. 
 The free villa is divided into certain portions according to the number 
 of proprietors, and a tenth of the whole produce is due to the sultan 
 for the maintenance of the spahis, a species of military force somewhat 
 resembling our yeomanry cavalry, except that they are liable to serve 
 
 VOL. II. M 
 
88 CHIFLICKS. 
 
 in foreign warfare either personally or by deputy. The vizir, in qua- 
 lity of collector for the sovereign, generally doubles this impost, though 
 he sends but a very small part of it to Constantinople. He appoints a 
 baloukbashee, with a party of soldiers, to govern the village and receive 
 the taxes, who are paid by the poor inhabitants: these latter also are 
 subject to the expenses of lodging and boarding all officers civil or 
 military, all soldiers upon their march, and all travellers, whether na- 
 tives or foreigners, who are furnished with a bouyourdee : neither is 
 any transfer of land allowed to take place without the vizir s per- 
 mission. 
 
 Can an Englishman credit it? These poor people, when allowed to 
 possess their property on this tenure, consider themselves under the 
 peculiar favour of Heaven ! But the insatiable avarice of their despot 
 urges him daily to strip them even of these scanty privileges. Ali's 
 aim is to become the greatest landed proprietor in his dominions, and 
 I think I shall not err if I assert that he possesses at least one third of 
 the whole cultivated territory : he is little aware how much more 
 rapidly his treasures would increase, by the encouragement of arts, 
 agriculture, and commerce, and by the promotion of happiness 
 amongst his subjects. To gain possession of a villa he generally con- 
 trives to purchase the portion of some indigent landed proprietor, 
 which is not very difficult on account of his severe ordinance respect- 
 ing the sale of estates ; then, when the porcupine is once settled in the 
 nest, the snakes may hiss, but they are soon dispossessed. If this 
 plan does not succeed, and he is unable to make any purchase, he 
 sends Albanian troops in succession through the district, with orders 
 that they shall make a long sojourn among the unfortunate inhabi- 
 tants of the villa, which is the object of his cupidity. It may easily 
 be conceived in such a case how the injuries of a savage undisciplined 
 soldiery are connived at and encouraged, rather than restrained or 
 punished. Indeed the accumulated miseries to which the wretched 
 victims are thus cruelly exposed can scarcely fail of its proposed 
 
CHIFLICKS. 83 
 
 effect: they throw up all their land into the hands of their tyrant, 
 remaining upon it as tenants at will, to receive a certain portion of the 
 produce in return for the labour of cultivation, expenses for seed, and 
 implements of husbandry. The free villa then loses all its ancient 
 rights and becomes what is called a chiflick. 
 
 The condition of a chiflick is as follows. The vizir first takes one 
 tenth of the whole produce, to which he would be entitled were it a 
 free villa. The remainder is divided into three portions, of which he 
 receives two, and if he should have furnished the seed and stock, he 
 also takes half the remaining third. Some of these chiflicks are let 
 annually at a certain price, either to Greeks, Turks, or Albanians, 
 the vizir keeping a large book in which the names and prices are regu- 
 larly enrolled. Our kaivasi Mustafa had hired a small one for the 
 next year, at the rate of 800 dollars : but Ali having transferred it 
 before our departure to Mouchtar Pasha, he took it into his own hands, 
 and poor Mustafa lost an excellent bargain. The purchaser generally 
 resides upon the spot, is dignified by the title of Shubashee, and has 
 the command of the village under the vizir. At those chiflicks which 
 Ali keeps in his own hands he builds large barns and granaries, in 
 which the produce is kept under the care of the codgid-bash.ee, until 
 some pressing occasion raises the price of grain ; and if this should 
 not happen, he fixes an arbitrary value upon the article and forces 
 his subjects to become purchasers. The greatest evil to which the in- 
 habitants of chiflicks are subject is their frequent transportation, like 
 herds of cattle, to different parts of the country, according to the 
 caprice or supposed interest of their master. The pictures of these 
 clans leaving the mansions of their ancestors and those spots which 
 have become endeared to them by the earliest associations, are de- 
 scribed as being sometimes very affecting. 
 
 In considering these details one is naturally tempted to ask why do 
 not his subjects quit for ever such an inhospitable country, and emi- 
 grate to happier climes ? Alas! this is impossible. Not to mention 
 
 m 2 
 
84 GREEK FUNERAL, 
 
 that affection for the natal soil which binds down the will in spite of 
 all the inclemency of nature and the injustice of a tyrant, surer 
 measures of prevention are adopted in Albania. No man can leave 
 these realms, even for the shortest time, without a special licence from 
 their ruler, whilst the frontiers and passes are most diligently guarded: 
 if any one should escape these barriers, his property would be for- 
 feited and his relatives cast into prison, to be made answerable for his 
 return : besides, after all, the government of Ali Pasha is upon the 
 whole beneficial to Albania, in comparison with that state under 
 which it existed previously to his reign, and it is happiness itself 
 when opposed to the government of the Morea and most other parts 
 of Turkey. Here indeed one tyrant reigns supreme, but there every 
 petty Mussulman can lord it over the miserable rayahs. 
 
 February 20th. — This afternoon, as I was taking a walk round 
 the city with Giovanni Argyri, we observed a funeral procession mov- 
 ing from a Greek house of respectable appearance : the corpse was 
 richly decked, and had a crucifix placed upon its breast, its face 
 being uncovered as it lay upon the bier : this was preceded by the 
 relations, priests, and deacons, and surrounded by hired female mourn- 
 ers who acted all the motions of distracted grief and made the air 
 resound with the most horrid and disgusting lamentations, crying 
 out, " Why did you die ? why did you leave your wife and family 
 and all your possessions ? who shall now bring you coffee and tobacco 
 from the Bazar?" with many more queries to the same effect. A 
 very considerable crowd joined the procession which we accompanied 
 to the church of Panagia, when the bier was set down : the service for 
 the dead was then read over the body, which after its mouth and fore- 
 head had been kissed by the relations was wrapped up in a winding 
 sheet and rolled into the grave. After the ceremony, the party, as I 
 understood from my guide, would return and feast at the house of 
 the deceased, where his friends would also meet again on the ninth day 
 after the funeral to make merry, whilst the women would renew their 
 
GREEK FUNERAL. 85 
 
 doleful cries and lamentations in concert with the widow. On that 
 day a mess of boiled wheat, mixed up with almonds and raisins, is 
 sent to the church, where prayers are put up for the soul of the de- 
 parted. The same ceremony is observed also on the fifteenth day, on 
 the twenty-first, and the fortieth. Then a repetition on\y takes place 
 at the end of three, six, nine, and twelve months, and lastly at the expira- 
 tion of three years, when the bones of the corpse are disinterred, wash- 
 ed carefully with wine, and, being tied up in a bag, deposited in the 
 church for three days before they are placed in the common cemetery, 
 at which time a solemn mass is performed, and a number of wax tapers 
 are distributed amongst the by-standers. An entertainment also is 
 given by the relations in proportion to their circumstances. 
 
 Observing an extraordinary number of graves in this cemetery, whereas 
 the church is very small, I inquired the reason from Giovanni, and learn- 
 ed that it is the favourite place of burial with the principal families of 
 Ioannina, with whom itis the fashion todeposit the mortal remains of their 
 friends, out of sight, lest the mournful recollection of their loss should 
 obtrude itself upon their minds when they go to divine worship at their 
 own churches. The greatest part of these graves are decorated with a 
 small stone or marble monument, in appearance like a square pilaster, 
 surmounted by a cross ; itis hollow within, having a little wooden door 
 attached, and containing a lamp which is lighted on certain festivals, as 
 well as on the anniversary of the deceased's birth and death: this ser- 
 vice is undertaken by a priest who is paid for his trouble by the 
 family. 
 
 Feb. 21. — Early this morning Antonietti came into our room, to 
 say that all the military of Ioannina was in motion, that the vizir had 
 just left the capital in his old German coach, escorted by a body guard 
 of 500 palikars, whilst the hen-coops were preparing for the ladies of 
 his harem to follow him. I immediately arose, and as soon as I was 
 dressed, walked out into the environsof the city, where I beheld immense 
 multitudes of Albanian troops spreading themselves over the plain, or 
 
86 EXPEDITION OF ALI AGAINST PARGA. 
 
 ascending the hills, and rushing, like ravenous wolves in search of prey, 
 towards their place of rendezvous. Nothing could he more wildly 
 picturesque than the appearance they made in their white fleecy capotes 
 and national costume, strutting in a kind of martial pride as though 
 they disdained to touch the earth with their tread. Few circumstances 
 could have imparted greater joy to the people of Ioannina than this 
 departure of the military, for whom they had been so long constrained 
 to find quarters, to the utter destruction of domestic comfort, and in 
 many instances to the ruin of moralily amongst their families : the re- 
 lief now experienced was like the removal of an incubus. Luckily it 
 happened to be the cold season, or the most destructive fevers might 
 have been the fatal consequence of this military occupation of the 
 capital. 
 
 We dined this day with the French Consul, and from him learned 
 what we before suspected, that the march of Ali's troops was directed 
 towards Parga. That heroic little republic had to this time withstood 
 all attempts of the tyrant to subdue it. He had tried every means, 
 and had recourse to every art which he had hitherto employed with so 
 much success : but the Parghiotes defied his threats, despised his arms, 
 and rejected his bribes: with them a generous patriotism triumphed 
 over every mean and selfish consideration, supported them in calamity, 
 animated them with hope, and burned like the vestal's fire perpetually 
 in their breasts. Every other inch of ground in Epirus was under the 
 dominion of Ali : he had subdued and concentrated the various realms 
 of Pashas, Agas, or free republics, round the focus of his power, 
 and he was indignant that this little rock should defy his efforts and 
 preserve its independence; that the flame of liberty should burn upon 
 this last altar in poor enslaved Greece, like a beacon to excite her sons 
 to shake off the yoke of tyranny. 
 
 Impressed with these ideas and accurately informed as to the state of 
 continental affairs, he had been for some time engaged in assiduous. en- 
 deavours to persuade Mr. Pouqucville and General Denzelotthe gover- 
 
DINNER WITH MR. POUQUEVILLE. 87 
 
 nor of Corfu, to cede this fortress to him for a valuable consideration. 
 But in this negociation he was cruelly disappointed. Those honourable 
 men, though they well knew the preponderance of British arms, and that 
 Parga must eventually be lost, steadily refused under any conditions to 
 deliver up 5000 Christians to their sanguinary and atrocious enemy, or to 
 sacrifice the lives and fortunes of those whom they had once taken under 
 their protection, and upon whose citadel they had hoisted the standard 
 of France. Who can reflect without honor that the British flag, which 
 succeeded it, proved the winding-sheet of Parghiot independence? 
 
 Our conversation to-day turned naturally upon this interesting sub- 
 ject, and never shall I forget the exultation which that excellent man 
 Mr. Pouqueville shewed at the very thought of Parga falling under 
 the power of England so well able to protect it. He described the 
 character of its inhabitants in such favourable terms as made us ex- 
 tremely desirous of visiting the place, and this wish eventually was gra- 
 tified. In spite of the vast number of troops which Ali had now led 
 against them, he secretly suspected that shame and defeat would be the 
 result of his attempts, and he paid a compliment to the patriotism of 
 Mr. Foresti which subsequent events shewed was well deserved. 
 
 Our host informed us that the priest or chaplain of the Miriditi had 
 been with him this morning to borrow one of his rooms, with various 
 other accommodations, for the celebration of mass. Thus those very 
 barbarians, after participating in the benefit of their Saviour's redemp- 
 tion, had gone willing instruments in a tyrant's hand to massacre 
 without the least personal provocation, a set of Christians whose only 
 fault was their hatred and opposition to tyranny. What a labyrinth is 
 the human heart ! 
 
 During the absence of his father, Mouchtar acted as caimacam or 
 vice-pasha ; but the pressure of public business did not seem to lessen 
 his avidity for amusements, or interrupt him in the enjoyment of them. 
 The divan or council, at which old Mahomet Eflendi presided, met 
 every day ; but its members were mere puppets, and could do no act 
 
88 VISIT TO MOUCHTAR PASHA. 
 
 without the permission of their master : accordingly all the tatars were 
 put in requisition and were in constant motion between the capital and 
 Prevesa. AH indeed sometimes contrives to throw the odium of op- 
 pressive and disagreeable measures upon his council, though he never 
 allows it free agency. His insatiable love of power makes him anxious 
 that all the minutest springs of state machinery should depend upon 
 himself: and this desire is seconded by that knowledge which he 
 has acquired of his territories during his extensive peregrinations, 
 and by his extraordinary memory, which enables him to remember 
 persons and facts at a wonderful distance of time. Every one seems 
 conscious of the power which this knowledge gives him, and when 
 absent, his presence is still, as it were, felt : nothing can illustrate this 
 so admirably as the expression made use of by the physician Metaxa 
 to Dr. Holland, " that there was a cord tied round every individual in 
 his dominions, longer or shorter, more or less fine ; but every one of 
 which cords went to him and was held in his hand*." 
 
 One day, during Ali's absence, having paid a visit to Mouchtar Pasha, 
 as we were sitting in his saloon such violent shrieks and outcries from a 
 female were heard beneath the window, that he ordered her to be brought 
 up. The poor creature being introduced, ran and threw herself at his 
 feet kissing the hem of his garment and imploring him, with the most 
 moving lamentations, to save her daughter, a young girl only fourteen 
 years old, whom Sechri Effendi, one of Ali's chief secretaries, and a 
 violent bigot, had seduced to the Mahometan faith. Can it be believed 
 that this brute in a human shape set up a loud laugh and ordered his 
 chaoushes to turn the poor suppliant out of his serai? 
 
 February 26. — This day a festival or fair was held in booths upon a 
 vacant space, about a mile from the city, at the church of St. Theodore, 
 and in honour of its patron. At about eleven o'clock A. M. we set out 
 for the scene of action, and were passed on the road by Signore Alessio 
 
 * Holland's Travels, p. 187. 
 
FESTIVAL AT THE CHURCH OF ST. THEODORE. go 
 
 mounted upon a finely caparisoned white charger, and accompanied 
 by a long train of Greek gentlemen. We found the people amusing 
 themselves in various sports and pastimes, and the priests just ready to 
 begin a service, which was delayed only till Alessio should arrive. At 
 length he entered and the church was soon crowded with people, each of 
 whom, as he came in, paid adoration to a dirty picture of the saint placed 
 in triumph on a frame in the middle of the aisle : this he kissed with 
 great reverence, crossing him both before and after the ceremony. So 
 much had this painting suffered from the lips of its admirers that scarcely 
 a feature could be traced upon the canvass. The women were as usual 
 concealed from public view by the lattice-work of the gallery. Various 
 mummeries were now exhibited at the great altar which stands at the 
 east end of the church before the Holy of Holies, a place venerated like 
 the adytum of an ancient temple, through the apertures of which the 
 priests ran in and out, like puppets in a show, dressed in their most 
 gaudy habiliments : the Kyrie Eleeyson was sung and a few psalms 
 chaunted, duringwhich process boys in surplices came up to receive our 
 contributions, swinging incense in brazen censers till the whole church 
 was filled with smoke : this custom is observed as some say on account 
 of its grateful odour and utility in a hot climate, or, according to others, 
 to drive away demons and evil spirits: 
 
 My friend and myself put each a dollar into the chalice, for which we 
 received three puffs of frankincense; but Signore Alessio, who contri- 
 buted a whole handful of sequins, was literally enveloped in a cloud* 
 Other chaunts were afterwards sung in honour of different saints, and 
 at the conclusion of each the chalice for contributions was brought 
 round with the censer as before : these worthies however were enriched 
 only with a few paras. So ridiculous and absurd are the mummeries of 
 
 * Plat. Com. in Athen. lib. x. p. 442. 
 YOL. II. N 
 
90 GREEP; SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 Greek worship within their churches, that in all probability nothing but 
 Mahometan austerity prevents them from practising more nonsense in 
 public than their catholic brethren of the west. The Turks indeed hold 
 the Greek rites in the utmost contempt, and their picture-worship in 
 perfect abhorrence, their own faith being intimately Connected with 
 the spirituality of the Deity, of whom they cannot endure any corporeal 
 representations. I once had a conversation with a most respectable 
 Turkish ag& upon this subject, who assured me that if the " Greek 
 dogs" were not such idolaters he should have some respect for them, 
 but when he saw them led by such ignorant and sordid impostors as he 
 knew their priests to be, he could not possibly restrain his indignation 
 and contempt. He then asked me why the English Franks never 
 bowed down to kiss pictures, and why they did not cross themselves? 
 and when I explained to him some of the chief articles of the Protestant 
 faith and the discipline of our church, which discards all ceremonies 
 that tend to debase the mind, and retains those only which are neces- 
 sary to add dignity to religious worship, he exclaimed that all this was 
 very good (xuxx h«a«) ; but that we were no more Christians than he 
 was ; meaning to pay us the greatest compliment in his power. 
 
 Certainly the Greek priests exert very few endeavours to enlighten 
 their countrymen, whoee ignorance and credulity is the source from 
 which they derive the greatest part of their revenues. They teach their 
 flocks therefore just as much of Christianity as is necessary for their 
 craft, instruct them more in legends and miracles of saints than in the 
 life and doctrines of their Saviour, inculcate a lively faith in purgatory, 
 with the efficacy of masses, crossings, and the tedious repetition of 
 prayers, just as if divine like human charity could be forced by sturdy 
 importunity : hence attendance upon ceremonious institutions coun- 
 terbalances the neglect of religious duties, and the people, unimpressed 
 with the true stamp of devotion, possess a most adulterated system, 
 not only of faith, but of morality. I trust however that the time is not 
 far distant when these abominations shall cease for ever. 
 
CLERGY, &c. yi 
 
 The Greek clergy of Ioannina are very numerous and many of them 
 very poor: some follow various kinds of professions, but especially hus- 
 bandry and fishing : these are distinguished from the laity only by a 
 high round cap and beard flowing over the breast : they despise the 
 tonsure as an innovation of the Latin church. A priest is only al- 
 lowed to marry once, and his wife must be a virgin : if he marries a 
 second time he is silenced, and is termed an apopapas. The monks or 
 caloyers are bound by a vow of continency, and from them the bishops 
 and other dignitaries of the church are generally selected. The Arch- 
 bishop of Joannina is appointed by the Patriarch of Constantinople, on 
 the recommendation of the vizir : he has four suffragan bishops under 
 him, viz. of Vellas (or Konizza), Argyro-Castro (or Drinopolis), Del- 
 vino, and Paramiihia. His jurisdiction is very limited, for Ali Pasha 
 will permit neither priests nor laity to possess more power than is 
 absolutely necessary within his dominion*. 
 
 k 2 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Difficulties which occur to the Writ a- of AH Pashas early History — Pre- 
 fatory Remarks respecting the Country called Albania and its Inha- 
 bitants — Ali's Birth-place and Family — His Situation at the Death of 
 his Father — Character of his Mother — Ali's Education — His Mother 
 and Sister carried off by the Gardikiotes — Ali's first Attempts at War- 
 fare and various Success — His Adventures in the Mountains of Mertzika 
 - — Throws off his Dependence on his Mother — Turns Kleftes — Taken by 
 Kourt Pasha and released — Again turns Kleftes — Taken by the Pasha of 
 Ioannina but released — Is again attacked by Kourt, but succeeds in 
 gaining his Favour — His Adventures at Berat — Enters into the Service 
 of the Pasha of Negivpofit — Gains Wealth and attempts to seize upon 
 Ar gyro-Castro, but fails — Takes Libochobo, fyc. — Destroys the Town of 
 Chormovo — Attacks the Pasha of Delvino whom he assassinates, but is 
 driven from the Place — Is made Lieutenant to the Derven-Pasha — His 
 Conduct makes the Pasha lose his Head — Serves against the Russians 
 — Enters into Correspondence with Potemkin — Gains the Pashalic of 
 Triccala — Attacks Ioannina — Gains a Battle over the Beys — Succeeds 
 by Stratagem in taking the City — Appointed by the PorteDerven Pasha 
 of Rumelia — Conquers the Pasha of Arta — Takes Klissura, Premeti, 
 Ostanizza andKonitza, and secures the Course of the Voiussa from Mount 
 Pindus to Tepeleni. 
 
 JjLAVING proceeded thus far in the journal of our residence at 
 Ioannina, during the course of which I have been necessarily led to 
 bring forward many characteristic traits as well as some political and 
 
DIFFICULTIES IN WRITING ALI PASHA'S EARIA HISTORY. 93 
 
 domestic anecdotes relating to its celebrated ruler, I am induced to 
 think that a more regular and detailed account of the adventurous life of 
 this extraordinary man, in which the causes of his uncommon success 
 may be connected with their effects, will not prove an unacceptable 
 document to the generality of my readers. The earlier parts of this 
 wild romantic history never can be very accurately and authentically 
 described, since they rest almost entirely upon oral traditions, or ac- 
 counts which have been compiled from those traditions after a long 
 intervening time : and though I have perused probably fifty of such 
 records, yet I never met with two that agreed with each other, either in 
 the relation of facts or the development of motives. In all such cases 
 it is necessary to be well acquainted with the character of the persons 
 from whom we receive information, and to know what opportunities 
 they themselves have enjoyed of acquiring it. For my own part, I 
 found no persons more able or more willing to impart this information 
 than the old Albanian governors of cities, fortresses, and seraglios 
 which we visited in our excursions through the country: these men were 
 the early friends of Ali in his youth, sharers of his toils, and partners 
 of his success: still even their accounts are subject in a great degree to 
 exaggeration from vain-glory, and their chronological arrangement to 
 disorder from defect of memory : the errors therefore that proceed 
 from these sources must be corrected by a careful and discriminating 
 comparison of written documents*, as well as from the observations of 
 those persons who have had the good fortune to view and sagacity to 
 connect the chain of political events, in the secluded seats of literature 
 and science. On one occasion, which will be hereafter mentioned, 
 I was fortunate enough to gain some elucidation of All's early history 
 from the chief actor in its scenes : had I been a greater adept in the 
 
 * I met with a detailed account of the Life of Ali Pasha written by an Albanian poet in Romaic 
 verse, and procured a transcript of it from some of Signore Psalida's scholars ; but the young rogues, 
 in their hurry to get the reward, wrote it in so confused and illegible a hand that it Has been of little 
 or no service to me in my labours. 
 
94 REMARKS RESPECTING ALBANIA AND ITS INHABITANTS. 
 
 Romaic language, I should not have despaired of receiving an authentic 
 detail of the whole from his own mouth. The latter portion of his his- 
 tory, after its hero had established a name, and connected his domi- 
 nions in political union with surrounding nations, offers itself much 
 more advantageously to investigation and research. 
 
 However before we enter upon tlie biographical part of this memoir 
 it will not be irrelevant if we take a cursory view of that curious and 
 warlike people, whose valour formed the basis of their chieftain's ag- 
 grandizement, and still remains the bulwark of his power. But in this 
 description it will be necessary for the reader lo bear in mind that the 
 character of this people is referred back a few years, to that time when 
 the Albanian, like the Indian hunter, stalked free and lawless over his 
 native mountains. His peculiar habits, manners, and customs have 
 been considerably altered by the despotic sway and consolidated power 
 of Ali Pasha : though the general elements of his character may 
 remain the same, yet the strong collision of external circumstances has 
 worn down many rough points and prominent features in its con- 
 figuration. 
 
 The country now called Albania is extremely difficult of defini- 
 tion. It was originally confined to the little district of Albanopolis*, 
 (now Albassan) in Southern Illyricum or that region which was after- 
 wards denominated New Epirus. From this insignificant origin, the 
 courage and increase of its inhabitants, shewn especially during the 
 weak disorderly reigns of the Byzantine emperors, have extended the 
 limits, or rather the name of AlbaxMA over greatest part of Illyricum 
 and Epirus ; so that in the present day it borders to the north upon 
 Bosnia, to the east upon Macedonia and Thessaly, to the south upon 
 
 * Ptolemy the geographer, who flourished in the reigns of Hadrian and Antoninus is the first upon 
 record who makes miention of it. AXfidviov AA/3a>o7ro\<e' 1. Hi. c. 12. Dion Cassius enumerating the 
 Roman conquests in Asia Minor, makes mention of Albania and calls it AXfluviav tt\v iku., as if in con- 
 tradistinction to an Albania elsewhere. 
 
REMARKS RESPECTING ALBANIA AND ITS INHABITANTS. 95 
 
 Acarnania and the Ambracian Gulf, to the west upon the Ionian 
 Sea and the Adriatic ; though the Albanians by no means form the 
 chief population within these limits, being interspersed with nu- 
 merous tribes of Servians, Bulgarians, Valachians, Osmanlis, and 
 Romaic or modern Greeks : so that in the same town it is not un- 
 common to hear spoken the Turkish, Romaic, Bulgarian, Valachian, 
 and Albanian languages, and sometimes a patois, or mixture of them 
 all. Albania is not unfrequently divided into Upper and Lower, 
 though the boundary line of these divisions is very undefined : they 
 might perhaps with greater propriety be styled Illyrian and Epirotian 
 Albania. The districts which are generally acknowledged in the 
 country are as follow. Scutari, Upper and Lower Dibra, Croia, 
 Dulcigno, Duratzo,Tifanna, Albassan, Ochri, Avlona, Berat, Musachia, 
 Desnitza, Scrapari, Koritza, Kolonia, Konitza, Dangli,Toskaria, Ma- 
 lacastra, Arberi or Liapurid, Argyro-Castro, Kimarra, Delvino, Liut- 
 zaria, Zogoi ia, Palaio-Pogojanni, Ioannina, and Tzamouria : to which 
 might now be added Arta, and Luro, since as many Albanians are 
 settled in these provinces as in most of the others abovementioned. 
 
 Witn regard to the origin of this people, who lay as it were dormant 
 so many centuries, " occulto velut arbor aevo," during the incursions 
 of the barbarians by whom at various times the Eastern Empire 
 was overrun*, history is quite silent ; all is left to conjecture, and con- 
 jecture itself has in this instance but slight grounds for the formation 
 of an hypothesis. Their language being entirely oral, no written do- 
 cuments can remain to aid us in our researches. In the opinion of 
 Col. Leake, than whom few persons are better able to judge, they are 
 the descendants of some ancient Illyrian nation, preserved by their 
 mountain barriers from the intermixture of Goths, Huns, Sclavonians, 
 and other invading tribes who settled in the country; and the only 
 
 * From the time of Ptolemy the geographer till the 11th century I beliere they are not mentioned 
 by any historian. 
 
96 REMARKS RESPECTING ALBANIA. AND ITS INHABITANTS. 
 
 hypothesis which seems able to stand against this, refers them to an 
 emigration of Asiatic Albanians, concerning whom Strabo has left us 
 a copious narrative, wherein some traits of character curiously coin- 
 cide with these Europeans, modified by the inventions of modern 
 science and the introduction of different religious rites. 
 
 The features of the Albanian, his narrow forehead, keen grey eye, 
 small mouth, thin arched eyebrow, high cheek bones, and pointed 
 chin, give him a very marked Scythian physiognomy; but as I am 
 ignorant of the language [which by the best judges is considered a 
 dialect of the Sclavonic with an intermixture of many other tongues], 
 and have no other data of any consequence, I feel myself unquali- 
 fied to offer any opinion upon this point. The name of Albanians 
 seems to have been taken from Ptolemy by the Byzantine writers*; 
 for the Turks call them Arnaouts, whilst their appellation in their 
 own language is Skypetars, their country Skyperi, and their 
 dialect Skyp. They are divided into four great tribes, or clans, called 
 Dgedges, Toskides, Liapides, and Tziamides-j-. The first of 
 these occupy the northern districts of Scutari, Dibra, Dulcigno, and 
 Durazzo. The second dwell in the great plains of Albassan, Musakia, 
 and Malacastra, stretching from the hills of Durazzo to Berat and 
 Avlona, and along the banks of the Volussa, or Aous, to Tepeleni and 
 Klissura (the ancient Fauces Antigoneae), and from thence to the 
 boundaries of Koritza eastward. The third are a race of wild moun- 
 taineers spread over the country between Toskeri& and the great plain 
 of Delvino, bounded by the Ionian sea : they are so dirty in their 
 habits and so addicted to plunder that the derivation of their name is 
 commonly referred to the Lapithae of antiquity. The fourth tribe ex- 
 
 * The titles given them by the Byzantine historians are 'AXfldvot, 'Apfidvot, 'AXfiav'trat, 'Apfiav'irai, 
 
 + Called by the Romaic writers, TiciyKiits, ToaxiSes, AidmSes, Tfta/it&s - The Albanian pronun- 
 ciation, according to Colonel Leake, whom I consider as the best authority, is NGEGE, TOSKE, 
 LIAPE, TZAMI. There are many subordinate tribes ; most of which the reader may see in the 
 map. 
 
REMARKS RESPECTING ALBANIA AND ITS INHABITANTS. 97 
 
 tends over that part of ancient Thesprotia which lies chiefly to the 
 south of the river Kalamas or Thyamis, comprehending Philates, 
 Margariti, and the Cassopaean mountains. In all these tribes there are 
 certain shades of difference with regard to language and manners, that 
 render it possible for a native to distinguish them from each other : 
 but the principal traits of the Albanian character seem to have 
 remained unaltered since the time of Alexius Comnenus*, when they 
 begin to be noticed by historians as a hardy and nomad, but cruel, ra- 
 pacious, and insubordinate people. After the death of the great Scan- 
 derbeg, when the Albanians, who had made a most brave resistance, fell 
 beneath the Ottoman yoke, an innovation was introduced into their 
 religious faith : till this time they at least professed Christianity, how- 
 ever uninstructed they might have been in its peculiar tenets and doc- 
 trines: the progress of apostacy however was at first very slow, and the 
 religion of Mahomet did not gain many adherents till about the end of 
 the sixteenth century : at this time a law was promulged which 
 secured their estates in the possession of all those Albanian families 
 who should bring up one of their members in the Mahometan faith. 
 This had the double effect, of keeping the country more clear of Os- 
 manli settlers than the rest of Turkey, and of soon transferring the 
 chief property into the hands of the new proselytes. At various times 
 however whole villages, towns, or districts, for political advantages, 
 have voluntarily renounced the religion of their ancestors ; and these 
 instances occur not unfrequently at the present day. Yet the Alba- 
 nian Mahometan is not more observant of doctrines, rites, and cere- 
 monies under his new law than he was under his old one, and is looked 
 upon with great contempt by the rigid Osmanli. He frequently 
 takes a Christian woman to his wife, carries his sons to mosque, and 
 
 * 'Ot rdg AeafioXug refto/itvoi AXfiavot vo/idBtg. L. ii. c. 55. AX/3av»e 61 irtpi QerraXlav oiK&trtv 
 ivrovofioi vo/idSeg. L. ii. c. 24. 'Ot rd opuvd rfjg QtrraXlag vifiofievoi AXfSavbi dftaaiXevroi, &c. 
 L. ii. c. 28. 'Ev^fpuc ovrtg irpog fierafioXdg xdi <j>vtr£i. veiDTcpoirowl. Cantacuzeni. Hist. 1. ii. c. 32 
 sub init. 
 
 VOL. II. O 
 
98 REMARKS RESPECTING ALBANIA AND ITS INHABITANTS. 
 
 allows his daughters to attend their mother to church ; nay, he even 
 goes himself alternately to both places of worship, and eats with his 
 family out of the same dish, in which are viands forbidden to the disci- 
 ples of Mahomet. Very few of them undergo the rite of circumcision : 
 hence when the pasha, in a fit of religious zeal, has sent sheiks to per- 
 form the operation throughout certain districts, many of the adults 
 have died in consequence. They are in general too poor to avail 
 themselves of the licence which their religion grants for polygamy, but 
 are content with one wife, who is chosen, like any other animal, more 
 for a slave or drudge than for a companion : they are by no means 
 jealous of their women, nor do they confine them like the Turks and 
 Greeks. The wretched creature of a wife, with one or two infants tied 
 in a bag behind her back, cultivates the ground and attends to the 
 household affairs by turns, whilst her lordly master ranges over the 
 forest in search of game, or guards the flocks, or watches behind a 
 projecting rock with his fusil ready to aim at the unwary traveller. 
 These women are in general hard-featured, with complexions rendered 
 coarse by exposure to all varieties of weather, and with persons ex- 
 tenuated by constant toil and scanty fare. In some districts they meet 
 with better treatment, and are found ready to share the dangers of 
 war with the men as well as the labours of agriculture. One fault of 
 very ill savour attaches itself to both sexes, being dirty in their habits 
 to a proverb, and never laying aside their apparel either by day or 
 night. Having no such conveniences as beds, they sleep on the 
 ground, with skins or mats for covering, in the midst of filth which 
 might turn the stomach of an Esquimaux : their huts or cabins have 
 no chimney, but plenty of crevices are left in the roof and walls for 
 the egress of smoke and the admission of rain. Scarcely ever is any 
 other furniture seen than a little earthenware, with an iron pot to cook 
 their victuals: they are far from being luxurious in their food, and in- 
 toxication is a vice of rare occurrence : yet at times they will both eat 
 and drink immoderately, especially if it be at another person's cost : 
 
REMARKS RESPECTING ALBANIA AND ITS INHABITANTS. 99 
 
 they are very greedy of gain and will almost starve themselves to pro- 
 cure money, which they readily expend in the purchase of arms : 
 many of their tribes never lay aside their weapons, even during the 
 time of sleep : when an Albanian is completely armed, he carries a 
 musket over his shoulder, a pistol and an ataghan in his belt, with a 
 narrow crooked sabre slung at his side in a manner somewhat similar to 
 our hussars ; thus equipped and shorn after the fashion of the Aban- 
 tes, with his little red skull-cap on his head, his fleecy capote thrown 
 carelessly over his shoulder, his embroidered jacket, his white camise, 
 or kilt, and his scarlet buskins embossed with silver, he calls himself a 
 palikar, or warrior, looks with infinite disdain upon all the world be- 
 sides, and in his gait assumes that haughty strut which so strongly cha- 
 racterizes the nation, and which is observable, though in a less degree, 
 amongst our own Caledonian highlanders. 
 
 A martial spirit and eager thirst after gain lead the Albanian to en- 
 gage very readily in the service of foreign states* ; but like the genera- 
 lity of mountaineers, his attachment to his native land is so strong that 
 he will never enlist but for a limited time, and the idea of returning 
 to his native hills alone supports him under all privations and disasters. 
 When he serves under the beys or chiefs of his own country, his enrolment 
 is sometimes voluntary, for the hope of booty or revenge, and sometimes 
 purchased, in which case the pay is proportioned to the valour and merit 
 of the individual. His school of war is one of unbridled licence 
 more than of military discipline, of cunning more than magnanimity; 
 and the chiefs having only an imperfect authority over their 
 vassals, these latter will sometimes disband themselves during a cam- 
 paign and return to their own homes : there they may be seen in- 
 dulging in perfect indolence, stretched out in the sun to sleep, or tun- 
 ing their guitars to their wild music in songs that celebrate the actions 
 
 * It would seem that the people of Epirus, like the inhabitants of Switzerland, always had a pro- 
 pensity for foreign mercenary warfare. Vid. Diod. Sic. vol. ii. p. 494. ed. Wessel. 
 
 o 2 
 
 
100 ALI'S BIRTH-PLACE AND FAMILY. 
 
 of favourite chieftains or of themselves ; for as their valour is stained 
 by perfidy, so is their merit by presumption, and they delight iu 
 boasting of deeds done either in fact or imagination. The retribution 
 of blood was in full force amongst them until the despotism of Ah 
 Pasha put a stop to this evil as well as to that system of brigandage 
 which made robbery a profession and removed from it every token of 
 disgrace*. 
 
 The Albanian coslume, especially that of the women, retains a singu- 
 lar resemblance to the antique. The abdominal system of the men seems 
 greatly compressed by the tight ligature of the zone about their loins ; 
 this however, together with constant practice, enables them to bear 
 long and difficult journeys on foot ; and their activity in climbing 
 rocks and mountains is quite extraordinary. In temper they are some- 
 what irritable, and very rarely forgive a blow : they are by no means 
 deficient in talent and acuteness, and it is a remarkable fact that the 
 three greatest men produced in Turkey during the present age, have 
 all derived their origin from Albania. These are the late celebrated 
 Vizir Mustafa Bairactar, Mohammed Ali Pasha of Egypt, and, the 
 greatest of them all, the subject of this present memoir. 
 
 Tepeleni, a small town of theToskides, situated on the left bank of 
 the Aous or Voiussa, soon after that river emerges from the straits of 
 Klissura, was the birth-place of Ali about the year 1750 f. Its beys 
 held it in a kind of feudal tenure under the pasha of Berat. The 
 family % of Ali, whose surname is Hissas, had been established for 
 several centuries in this place, and one of its members, named Muzzo, 
 having been very successful in the honourable profession of a kleftes, 
 
 * A favourite Albanian proverb says, " He that knows not how to take away another man's pos- 
 sessions deserves not to retain his own." 
 
 + The exact year of his birth is not known : nor can the information be procured from Ali himself, 
 for he is always anxious to be thought younger than he really is. 
 
 % It is thought very probable that this family was one of those which when Albania fell beneath the 
 Ottoman yoke changed their religious faith to retain their possessions. 
 
CHARACTER OF HIS MOTHER. 101 
 
 or robber, secured the lordship of Tepeleni to himself and transmitted 
 it to his descendants. Ali's grandfather, after whom he is named, was 
 considered the greatest warrior of his age. He fell bravely fighting at 
 the celebrated siege of Corfu, just as he had scaled the ramparts 
 sword in hand and was animating his troops to follow his example. 
 His sword was long kept as a relic in the armoury of Corfu, from 
 whence it suddenly disappeared during the occupation of that island 
 by the French. I have heard that Ali offered a large sum of money 
 to gain possession of it, but without success. The father of our hero, 
 named Vely Bey, was a man of humane disposition and excellent 
 character, extremely well disposed towards the Greeks, by whose inte- 
 rest in the Fanar he was appointed to the pashalic of Delvino. From 
 this post however he was subsequently removed by the intrigues of a 
 cabal and retired to his native lordship of Tepeleni : in his misfor- 
 tunes he was cruelly attacked and harassed by the neighbouring beys 
 and agas, chiefs of petty districts, who at that time abounded in Al- 
 bania and were always engaged in a state of warfare amongst each 
 other for the purposes of pillage, or revenge, or extension of territory. 
 Unable to make head against his enemies, it is said that he died of 
 grief, leaving two wives and three children, a daughter and two sons. 
 The mother of Ali and of his sister Shainitza, was a woman of uncom- 
 mon talents, undaunted courage, and determined resolution, but fierce 
 and implacable as a tigress. Her first act was to get rid of her rival, 
 whom together with her child she took oft" by poison, thus securing 
 all the rights and property of her husband to Ali, who at this 
 time was about fourteen years of age. Far from yielding under the 
 disastrous circumstances of fortune, she armed herself with double 
 fortitude, and rising superior to the weakness of her sex, carried a 
 musket against her enemies in the field at the head of her faithful 
 clan, performing all the duties both of general and soldier. In most 
 of these enterprises she took Ali as an associate, though she kept him 
 
102 ALI'S EDUCATION. 
 
 within the strictest limits of obedience. Plainly foreseeing that his 
 security depended chiefly upon his military education, she accus- 
 tomed him early to the perils of an active and romantic life, and 
 improved his naturally strong constitution by exercise and tempe- 
 rance: she engaged the oldest and most faithful retainers of her family 
 to animate his zeal b\ a recital of the history and exploits of his an- 
 cestors, to correct his rash impetuosity by their experience, to in- 
 struct him in all the manly exercises of an Albanian palikar, and to 
 school him in knowledge of mankind and the arts of governing them, 
 rather than in the lore of book-learning and science. 
 
 Ali's progress kept pace with her most sanguine hopes ; and to the 
 habits of his early life many traits in his future character may easily 
 be traced. His great object was to secure the attachment of his 
 Albanian clansmen : in this he completely succeeded by assidu- 
 ously cultivating their society, by partaking of their dangers in war 
 and amusements in peace, by listening to their wants, deciding their 
 quarrels, flattering their prejudices, and imitating their customs. 
 During his military excursions he traversed this rugged country on 
 foot with his musket over his shoulder, and thence acquired a most 
 useful knowledge of all the mountain fastnesses and every opening for 
 advance or retreat: by constant intercourse with his military compa- 
 nions, whose histories and adventures he was accustomed to learn by 
 heart, he so improved his naturally strong memory that on some oc- 
 casions, when an old associate in the profession of kleftes has been 
 taken and brought before him, he has astonished the culprit, before 
 condemnation, with a recital of all the principal events of his life, 
 and in the same manner he has enumerated the merits of those whom 
 he has rewarded : with regard to bodily exercises, he soon became the 
 best horseman, the swiftest runner, and the most expert marksman of 
 his day. The old governor of Tepeleni, when we visited that place, 
 spoke in raptures of the young bey's proficiency in these arts at an 
 
HIS MOTHER AND SISTER CARRIED OFF BY THE GARDIKIOTES. 103 
 
 early age, and his eyes glistened as he recounted his gallant exploits 
 and the fine manner in which he would lead up his troops to the as- 
 sault of a town. 
 
 In the mean time Ali's mother, who had resisted the attacks of her 
 confederated enemies with various success, fell at once, by one blow of 
 fortune, into the lowest abyss of misery. The inhabitants of Gardiki, 
 a large town situated at no great distance from Argyro-Castro, amidst 
 the wild mountains of Liapuria, made a secret expedition by night 
 against Tepeleni, and succeeded in carrying oft' both the mother and 
 daughter: Ali himself narrowly escaped the snare by a fortunate 
 absence in a marauding expedition, or, as others report, by his attend- 
 ance at a marriage least. The women were carried to Gardiki, and 
 there treated in a manner unbecoming the most rude and savage bar- 
 barians, being kept in close confinement during the day, and at night 
 led round the city by a guard to every house in rotation, and subjected 
 to the brutal passions of its masters. They continued more than a 
 month in this dreadful situation, when their misfortunes excited com- 
 miseration in a bey of the family of Dosti*, whose turn it was to re- 
 ceive them into his dwelling. This generous man, with a few confi- 
 dential servants, conducted them, at the hazard of his life, out of the 
 city, and brought them in safety to Tepeleni, where they found the 
 indignant Ali just preparing to attempt their liberation with a large 
 body of troops which he had collected together. The Gardikiotes, 
 when they discovered the flight of the captives, pursued them, but in 
 vain ; after which they returned home, and burned to the ground the 
 mansion of their benevolent preserver. 
 
 This stain upon the honour of Ali's house was considered indelible 
 but by blood. The authority of his mother, and the never-ceasing en- 
 treaties of his sister, who inherited all her mother's spirit (and who, as 
 
 * It is a curious circumstance that the ablest general with whom Ali ever contended, and who com- 
 manded against him in the siege of Gardiki, forty years after, was of this family, named Demir Dost or 
 Dosti. 
 
l0 4 ALI'S FIRST ATTEMPTS AT WARFARE. 
 
 the old governor of Tepeleni told us, had she been a man, would have 
 fought with Ali inch by inch for his dominions) were exerted to keep 
 alive, within his heart, the flame of vengeance. The former on her 
 death-bed conjured her son, with her last breath, never to rest till he 
 had exterminated the guilty race; and the latter, in all her conversa- 
 tions with him, ended every speech by the expression that she never 
 could know peace of mind, or die with satisfaction, till she had 
 stuffed the couches of her apartment witli the hair of the Gardikiote 
 women. After a lapse of forty years the vengeance of these furies was 
 executed to the full by Ali's stern decree — the guilty, but unfortunate 
 Gardiki is no more, and Shainitza's head reclines upon the raven 
 tresses of its daughters*. 
 
 Soon after this adventure Ali was desirous of leading forth the 
 troops which he commanded, and of trying his strength with the ene- 
 mies of his house. Naturally of an ardent temper, and impatient of 
 controul, he burned to escape from those trammels of dependence 
 in which he was kept by his mother, and at length extorted from her 
 an unwilling consent that he should take the field. He was fortunate in 
 his first attempts, but had neither troops nor money enough to pro- 
 secute his success : he was then defeated in his turn, and wandering 
 about the country to escape his pursuers, was indebted for his safety to 
 the benevolence and fidelity of several individuals. 
 
 On his return to Tepeleni he was received with the most indignant 
 reproaches by his mother, who it is said threatened to clothe him in 
 female attire, and shut him up in the harem or apartment of the wo- 
 men; and when, after the most ardent solicitations, he gained from her 
 fresh supplies, and permission again to try the fortune of war, she 
 
 • The temper of this woman is said to be most cruel and inexorable. Once, when the emissaries of 
 h«r brother had carried off a beautiful virgin from the town of Kalarites, to be imprisoned in his detes- 
 table harem, the women of the place formed a deputation to Shainitza to entreat her intercession with 
 Ali, to restore the damsel to her disconsolate parents. Her answer to their request was, " Get ye gone. 
 She would have married a ploughman, and now she will lead the life of a queen." 
 
HIS ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF MERTZIKA. ]05 
 
 added, in the true laconic style, that she expected to see him return 
 upon the shoulders of his troops, either as a conqueror or a corpse. 
 
 In the campaign which ensued, his evil genius at first predominated : 
 he was defeated in battle, but in his retreat, having entered within 
 the ruins of a deserted monastery, he there accidentally discovered a 
 treasure that relieved him at once from his distresses, appeased the 
 anger of his mother, and enabled him, young as he then was, to con- 
 nect himself very advantageously in a matrimonial alliance. He now 
 determined to make one last and desperate effort against his ancient 
 foes. He raised fresh levies, and departed eager for revenge, at the 
 head of a considerable force. In this expedition however he was ac- 
 companied both by his mother and his bride. The former still held 
 the reins of government, endeavouring to curb the impetuosity of her 
 son, and direct him by her counsels and experience. Still every thing 
 appeared unavailing ; the confederate beys of Argyro-Castro, Gardiki, 
 Kaminitza, Goritza, Chormovo, and some others, brought an over- 
 whelming army into the field ; the Tepelenites were routed and dis- 
 persed amongst the mountains of Mertzika, whose barriers alone saved 
 them from the fury of the conquerors. At this critical juncture, when 
 the star of Hissas seemed inclined to set in darkness, Ali planned and 
 executed a manoeuvre which shews at once his sagacity and decision 
 of character in those trying circumstances which tend to call forth all 
 the latent energies. Himself, his mother, and his wife, were quartered 
 in the house of some friendly partisan, amidst the remains of his little 
 army, collected together after his defeat. Knowing that a very con- 
 siderable detached portion of his enemies were also encamped lower 
 down upon the plain, and that the chiefs of Argyro-Castro and Gardiki, 
 the most powerful of his opponents, had retired to their respective 
 cities, he at once determined upon his mode of action. 
 
 Leaving his bed about midnight he gave strict orders to his wife 
 that she should keep the door of their apartment locked, and that 
 when his mother came, according to custom, very early in the morning 
 
 VOL. II. p 
 
106 HIS ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF MERTZIKA, 
 
 to inquire after her son, she should answer that he was asleep and 
 wished not to be disturbed. He then departed alone and unprotected, 
 gained the camp of the confederates, and soon after the dawn of day 
 stood in the presence of those who sought his life. Astonished at his 
 appearance they demand the motives of his conduct ; when the young 
 chieftain with a modest but undaunted air thus addresses them : 
 " The life and fortunes of Ali are in your hands; the honour and exist- 
 ence of his house depends upon your will : here I am, driven to de- 
 spair : I have fought till my means are exhausted ; I now throw myself 
 into your power, and you must either destroy or support me against 
 my enemies : but do not deceive yourselves and suppose that you would 
 derive benefit from the death of Ali : my enemies are in fact your 
 own, and they seek my destruction only to be enabled more easily to 
 place the yoke upon your necks. The chiefs of Argyro-Castro and 
 Gardiki, already too formidable for the liberty of their neighbours, will 
 profit by my fall to gain the sovereignty of the whole district. Tepe- 
 leni, strong by nature, fortified by art, and garrisoned by my faithful 
 Arnaouts, might, if I were supported, present an invincible barrier 
 against their ambitious designs : but if they once gain possession of this 
 fortress they will not only have the means of annoying their neighbours, 
 but of securing themselves from all retaliation. Destroy me then, if 
 you please, but be assured that my destruction will be the prelude to 
 your own." Ali well knew that he had no danger to apprehend from 
 thus placing himself in the power of his foes. The voluntary suppliant 
 of an Albanian chieftain, is sure, not only of protection in his presence, 
 but of an escort on his return : this security is accorded even to a 
 robber, or to the greatest outcast of society. The grandeur of Ali's re- 
 solutions, his manly open countenance, the fame of his valiant deeds, 
 the name of his family, and, above all, the jealousy which he artfully 
 contrived to insinuate into the minds of the beys, excited in all an in- 
 terest for his welfare, and determined them not only to spare his life, 
 but to range themselves under his standard. 
 
THROWS OFF HIS DEPENDENCE ON HIS MOTHER. 107 
 
 In the mean time his mother came as usual to his chamber door, and 
 was answered by the wife according to her instructions. In about an 
 hour she returned and received a similar answer : this being repeated a 
 third time, she began to be alarmed, and suspecting that all was not 
 right, ordered the door to be broken open. Not finding Ali within, 
 and learning in what manner he had departed, she tore her hair, and 
 rushing out of the house in wild disorder, took the same route her son 
 had taken, shrieking violently, and calling upon his name till the 
 mountains echoed with her cries. No long time elapsed before she 
 met the object of her search returning to her presence at the head of 
 those very troops who had espoused his cause, and whose assistance 
 enabled him so effectually to make head against his remaining ene- 
 mies, that he obtained a peace, strengthened the fortifications of his 
 native place, and secured his family and fortune. It is from this deci- 
 sive act that he dates the commencement of all his future glory. 
 
 Ali now resolved to take the management of affairs into his own 
 hands; he no longer suffered his mother's interference in war and 
 politics, but confined her to the apartments of the harem. Her death, 
 which happened soon afterwards, has been ascribed by some to his 
 jealous policy : but this accusation I totally disbelieve. From a con- 
 sideration of his character and a review of his acts, one would be in- 
 clined to think that no fear of remorse, no tie of humanity, no impulse 
 of affection, would be an obstacle to him in the perpetration of any 
 atrocity. Yet, after all, Ali has scarcely ever shewn himself, like many 
 oriental tyrants, wanton in the waste of cruelty : let his own interest 
 indeed be concerned, let his safety in the remotest degree be threatened, 
 and woe be to the victim whom he suspects, or the criminal whom he 
 has discovered. But I cannot consent to brand his name with the 
 crime of matricide. Crimes of the deepest dye he has committed, but 
 the fierceness of his nature seems to relax when he is approached by 
 the objects of natural affection ; and to his children and their offspring 
 he appears most sensibly and cordially attached. I have read in an 
 
 p 2 
 
108 TURNS KLEFTES. 
 
 account which pretends to be genuine, that he shot his favourite 
 nephew in one of the apartments of his palace of Litaritza. But mark 
 the difference! I once spent an hour in that very apartment with Ali's 
 chief physician waiting for an audience. This gentleman, in whose 
 arms the young bey expired, gave me the particulars of his death, 
 which was the consequence of a fever : he informed me that the vizir 
 was so doatingly fond of the youth that he could scarcely be induced 
 to quit his bedside, and so inconsolable at his loss that he had never 
 once entered into the room from that time to the present : and this re- 
 lation was amply confirmed to me by others. I feel the more anxious 
 to rescue Ali's fame from those unmerited aspersions, because my duty 
 to the reader and my regard for truth will necessarily lead me to exhibit 
 his character sometimes in very unfavourable points of view ; so that I 
 can scarcely help reproaching myself with a species of ingratitude, 
 when I recollect the good offices and protection we received in his do- 
 minions. Such feelings however receive some alleviation from the 
 consciousness that Ali would consider himself flattered by that picture 
 from which an Englishman starts back in horror. In Turkey the life 
 of man is estimated by a very different standard from our own, and 
 those deeds which we should designate as crimes of the blackest dye, 
 would be extolled by their perpetrator as acts of the most refined 
 policy. Another thing, now I am upon this subject, let me be per- 
 mitted to mention. In all the anecdotes relating to this extraordinary 
 personage, no pains have been spared to sift the truth from what was 
 false or doubtful, and to penetrate into the real motives of his actions, 
 nor have any been introduced into these pages but such as I had the 
 means of authenticating fully to my own satisfaction. Could the 
 reader see but half the stories I possess respecting Ali Pasha, collected 
 both from friends and foes, he would be convinced that I might have 
 compiled a history of his life, in comparison with which that of Jona- 
 than Wilde himself would have appeared like the memoirs of a Saint. 
 Ah being now free from all immediate danger, determined to pursue 
 
TAKEN BY KOURT PASHA AND RELEASED. 109- 
 
 that path which at this time frequently conducted its followers to the 
 highest honours of the state*. He became a leader of banditti, and 
 in his capacity of kleftes so infested the mountainous districts of Zagori 
 and Kolonia, that Kourt Pasha of Berat took up arms to defend the 
 country, defeated his band, and captured their chief. His youth and 
 the beauty of his person recommended him strongly to the favour of his 
 conqueror, who, instead of treating him like a rebel, retained him in 
 his court and honoured him with his confidence : nor, if reports be 
 true, was the wife of this pasha insensible to the charms of the young 
 hero. In a war which soon afterwards broke out between Kourt and the 
 pasha of Scutari, the most powerful of all the Albanian chieftains, Ali 
 distinguished himself by so many acts of bravery and ingratiated him- 
 self thereby so much with the soldiery, that Kourt's hasnadar or trea- 
 surer, a man of deep policy and great experience, strongly advised his 
 master either to put him to death or to secure his fidelity by giving him 
 his daughter in marriage-f-. The first part of this counsel was incom- 
 patible with the pasha's notions of honour and his humane disposition; 
 the second was rejected, on account of the indignity of taking a needy 
 adventurer into alliance with one of the first families in the Ottoman 
 empire, whose pedigree could shew at least ten individuals dignified with 
 the title of vizir. A middle course therefore was pursued, and Ali 
 being honourably dismissed from Berat, was sent back to his native 
 place with presents of considerable value: the daughter of Kourt, 
 much to her dissatisfaction, for she had seen Ali and heard of his valiant 
 deeds, was affianced to Ibrahim Bey, whose family was equal to 
 her own. 
 
 It was impossible for a youth of Ali's disposition to remain long in- 
 active. Being at peace with his neighbours, and scarcely strong 
 
 * Sometimes indeed this exaltation was upon a gibbet ; so true is the old adage — " Ille crucem sceleris 
 pretium tulit hie diadema." 
 
 + Exactly similar advice was given to Augustus by Maecenas with respect to Agrippa. Tj/X<(.Stov 
 dvrov irmoiriKuc wit q yafxfipov an yivioSai r) <povi.v$ijpai. Dion Cass, c. liv. 6. 
 
110 AGAIN TURNS KLEFTES. 
 
 enough to commence offensive operations against them, he resumed 
 his former occupation of kleftes, and ravaging the mountains of Epirus 
 was taken prisoner by the pasha of Ioannina. Earnest application 
 was now made to this chieftain by his own beys, as well as by the 
 pasha of Delvino, and some other governors of the neighbouring dis- 
 tricts, to consign the young robber over to condign punishment, and 
 Ali had an hair-breadth escape from death in that very capital where 
 he was destined to reign as sovereigu. The pasha long hesitated, but 
 conceiving it more consistent with good policy in the turbulent state 
 of his own territories and of Epirus in general, to permit his prisoner to 
 live, he not only liberated him, but supplied him with the means of 
 carrying on his future operations. These he employed in embodying a 
 large band of freebooters, Avho committed so many depredations in the 
 various districts of Epirus, Thessaly, and Macedonia, and rendered the 
 country so unsafe for merchants and travellers of every description, that 
 the Porte found it necessary to take cognizance of their outrages, and 
 sent an order to the derven-pasha of Rumelie to attack and exterminate 
 the offenders. 
 
 The derven-pasha at this time happened to be that very Kourt in 
 whose service we have seen Ali once engaged. He marched against 
 the banditti with a considerable force ; but the tried courage of these 
 wild Arnaouts, their intimate acquaintance with the mountain passes, 
 and above all the abilities of their chief, were more than a match for 
 the vizir, who thought it advisable to attempt by negociation what he 
 was unable to effect by force of arms; and he accordingly desired a 
 conference. The acuteness and natural eloquence of Ali were as con- 
 spicuous in debate as was his valour in the field. He recovered the 
 good will and confidence of Kourt, who he knew was about to march 
 against some rebels of the Porte, and persuaded him not only to secure 
 his pardon at Constantinople, but to accept of his services for the war : 
 in this his military skill and courage contributed mainly to the success 
 of his protector, who not only represented his conduct in a most fa- 
 
HIS ADVENTURES AT BERAT. i j i 
 
 vourable light at Constantinople, but gave him a high military com- 
 mand at his own court. This however he did not retain long : the 
 daughter of Kourt, who had been married against her own inclina- 
 tion to Ibrahim, made overtures to Ali which were answered by him with 
 proportionate alacrity. Ibrahim soon became suspicious of their in- 
 trigues and laid a plan to surprise them in the hour of dalliance. Ali's 
 good fortune again prevailed : he received notice of his enemy's ap- 
 proach, made his escape with great precipitation, and fled : a wall of 
 great height is shewn to this day at Berat which he scaled in his flight. 
 Arrived at Tepeleni he did not think it prudent to remain so near the 
 powers whom he had offended ; on which account he entered into the 
 service of the pasha of Negropont,who, being a stranger, and having just 
 entered upon his government, was glad to purchase the assistance of so 
 experienced and brave a palikar as Ali Bey. From this engagement 
 he reaped considerable advantages in point of wealth, which enabled 
 him on his return to Tepeleni to commence the execution of those 
 projects which he always meditated, and to become a robber on 
 so extended a scale that the magnitude of his crimes should hide 
 their natural deformity. His first attempt was too daring for his 
 means : he endeavoured to take advantage of internal sedition in the 
 great city of Argyro-Castro and to introduce his own troops into 
 the place ; but his designs were opposed by a momentary concurrence 
 of all parties, and he was obliged to retreat. He next fell upon the 
 town of Libochobo, on the other side of the plain, upon the mountain 
 chain of Mertzika, which, being unprepared to resist him, submitted to 
 his arms ; in a similar manner Lekli, Giates, and some others were sub- 
 dued. He now determined to attack the strong place of Chormovo, the 
 inhabitants of which had irreconcilably offended him, not only because 
 they had been amongst the earliest confederates against his family, but, 
 as it is said, because some of its citizens instigated and accompanied 
 the Gardikiotes in the expedition wherein they carried off his mother 
 and sister. 
 
 His operations against this city strongly indicate the character and 
 
112 DESTROYS THE TOWN OF CHORMOVO. 
 
 disposition of the man, his settled principle of revenge, and his prefer- 
 ence of artifice above open force. Whilst he was collecting troops for 
 the enterprise, the Chormovites in alarm sent their two primates, 
 named Gicca Dillos and Gicca Allio, to Tepeleni, requesting to know 
 the cause of his threatened hostilities, and the methods by which they 
 might be averted. Ali received the deputies with great civility, re- 
 plying that he had no cause at all for hostilities against Chormovo, but 
 merely of complaint against certain families, Avhom he named, and 
 assured them that if these persons were expelled from the city, and 
 their habitations burned, he would not molest them. The primates 
 then returned, assembled the citizens, and gave in their report. To 
 save their country, the families thus designated, unanimously consented 
 to expatriate themselves, and retired to Argyro-Castro, having first re- 
 ceived ample compensation for their houses and effects. The pri- 
 mates now returned to the presence of Ali, and informed him of the 
 result. His reply was — " I am pleased with your conduct; you have 
 shewn yourselves my friends indeed : go back to your fellow citizens, 
 and say, that in a few days I will pay them a visit in person, and as I 
 wish not to put them to expence, will bring with me only 200 men : in 
 the mean time take back with you some of my people, for as yet I can 
 scarcely trust those who have so often deceived me." Accordingly the 
 poor primates were obliged to accept this guard of honour, and soon 
 afterwards Ali paid them his promised visit, iiccompanied not by 200, 
 but by 1200 of his best troops. He was nevertheless received with 
 every demonstration of feigned joy, magnificently treated, and his 
 troops put into the best quarters possible. These, however, after a lapse 
 of four or five days, began to pick quarrels with their hosts, for which 
 many of them were severely reprimanded, and even punished by their 
 hypocritical master, who asked how they dared to insult the good peo- 
 ple of Chormovo, his excellent friends, who had invited him so kindly 
 into their city? Soon afterwards he called the principal inhabitants 
 together, and thus addressed them : " My good friends, I teel greatly 
 for your situation, as my residence amongst you must embarrass your 
 
DESTROYS THE TOWN OF CHORMOVO. 113 
 
 finances : I will therefore relieve you by retiring, with the greatest part 
 of my attendants, to the monastery of Tribuchi*, where you shall 
 come to me, that we may draw up and sign articles of friendship and 
 alliance." 
 
 Accordingly, to the convent he went, and next day about one hun- 
 dred of the principal citizens were summoned to attend the conference. 
 The treaty, for the appearance of greater solemnity, was to be drawn 
 up and signed in church, and the hegumenos, or prior, in full robes, 
 was seen standing at the great altar with all due preparations for its 
 formal execution. It is a custom with the Greeks never to enter into 
 a place of religious worship armed : they unfortunately, therefore, de- 
 posited their weapons at the church door as they advanced towards 
 the priest; and these were all seized immediately by Ali's orders. In 
 the mean time the solemn farce of the treaty was acting at the high 
 altar, when one of the Chormovites having occasion to quit the 
 church, perceived the seizure of the arms, and ran back to his friends, 
 crying out — " that the priest might stop proceedings, for the infidel 
 had betrayed them." His troops then rushed in, tied them together 
 with ropes, and dispatched them to Tepeleni : they then marched, 
 under the conduct of Ali, and fell upon Chormovo itself, massacred a 
 great multitude of its unfortunate inhabitants, sold the women and 
 children into slavery, and razed the town down to the ground. Having 
 taken one man, the head of a family named Prifti, particularly 
 obnoxious to Ali, he ordered a spit to be run through his body, 
 and roasted him alive : it is asserted by many that he performed the 
 inhuman office of executioner with his own hands: but this is not true; 
 it was done by his foster-brother, named Usuf-Araps, the son of a black 
 slave in his father's harem. 
 
 By this horrid act of vengeance he spread a terror of his name 
 
 * Dedicated to the Paoagia, in the mountains, only a short distance from Chormovo. 
 VOL. II. Q 
 
1 14 ATTACKS AND ASSASSINATES THE PASHA OF DELVING. 
 
 throughout the surrounding tribes, many of whom submitted without 
 resistance to his power. Being now comparatively wealthy, he beoan 
 to practise that art to which he owes so many of his subsequent suc- 
 cesses, the art of bribery. By means of his emissaries at Constanti- 
 nople he procured a commission for attacking Selim Pasha of Del- 
 vino, who, for some reason or other, was obnoxious to the Porte, and 
 made himself secure of being appointed to the vacant pashalic. Re- 
 sorting to his favourite measures of deceit, he carried with him only a 
 small band of troops, under pretence of flying from his enemies : with 
 these he was received into Delvino, and gained the confidence of the 
 unsuspecting Selim. He then contrived to surround him with his own 
 creatures, fomented cabals amongst the officers and soldiers of his 
 guard, and at length assassinated the pasha and arrested his son, 
 whom he carried off, when the people of the city rose upon him with 
 indignation and compelled him to retreat. They were however 
 obliged to ransom his prisoner for a large sum of money, which at 
 this particular crisis very materially contributed to the aggrandize- 
 ment of the captor : for a new Derven-Pasha of Rumclie having been 
 just appointed, Ali, by aid of large bribes, was nominated his lieute- 
 nant. In this post he determined to pursue his favourite maxim — " Get 
 money, and that will procure all things." Instead of attempting to 
 clear the district of banditti, he traded in licences, which he sold regu- 
 larly to the kleftes, receiving not only a certain sum, but a share of the 
 booty they might obtain. These worthies now pursued their course 
 with such unbridled insolence and rapacity, that in a short time the 
 country became quite impassable, and the Pasha being recalled, lost 
 his head at Constantinople, for the fault of his lieutenant. Ali him- 
 self was obliged to expend a great share of his illicit gains to secure 
 his indemnity ; but so high did his character now stand for bravery 
 and success, that in the year 1787, when war broke out between 
 Turkey and the allied powers of Austria and Russia, he was invited to 
 
GAINS THE PASHALIC OF TRICCALA. [ ] > 
 
 fill an important command in the army of the Grand Vizir, Usouf: 
 under this general he behaved with great gallantry, and was considered 
 one of the most promising officers in the Ottoman service. 
 
 An event however occurred in this campaign which led to the early 
 development of his ambitious views. His favourite nephew Mahmoud, 
 whom I have before alluded to, was taken prisoner by the Russians. 
 It is said, and I believe with truth, that in the negociations which en- 
 sued respecting his release between Ali and Potemkin, each of these 
 ambitious men contrived partially to discover their particular projects 
 of aggrandizement to the other. Certain it is that an interchange of 
 presents took place, and a regular correspondence between them was 
 commenced, from which Ali entertained strong hopes of beino- acknow- 
 ledged sovereign of Epirus when his friend should be seated upon 
 the throne of Constantinople. This correspondence which Potem- 
 kin held with Ali, as well as with many other Greek and Turkish 
 chieftains, became known to Catherine and probably precipitated 
 his fate. 
 
 Ali now employed the wealth which he possessed and the credit he had 
 gained by his military talents, in procuring for himself the government 
 of Triccala* in Thessaly, to which he was nominated by the Porte with 
 the title of pasha of two tails. The situation of Triccala was peculiarly 
 adapted to his views. It commands the passage of merchandise from 
 Ioannina to Constantinople, and whoever possesses this country can 
 stop all supplies of corn from the fertile plains of Thessaly, upon which 
 the pashalic of Ioannina frequently depends for the support of its popu- 
 lation. Here then he planted himself at a time when anarchy and con- 
 fusion reigned in the last mentioned city. The authority of its pasha 
 was at best almost nominal : its turbulent and powerful beys were not 
 
 * It has succeeded in site and almost in name to the ancient Tricca, concerning which vid. Strah. 
 lib. ix. p. 437. Iliad, ft. 729. 
 
 Q 2 
 
116 SUCCEEDS BY STRATAGEM IN TAKING IOANNINA. 
 
 only in rebellion against him, but engaged in the most fierce and im- 
 placable quarrels amongst themselves. 1 have been assured by most 
 respectable people in loannina who remembered those times, that it was 
 frequently unsafe for a person to stir out into the public streets. Each 
 head of a party had converted his house into a species of fortress, from 
 whence his adherents used to fire upon their opponents if they ap- 
 proached too near; the most atrocious murders were daily committed 
 in open day, till the very bazar itself became almost deserted : at this 
 time however, the pasha was dead, and every rival chieftain was ca- 
 balling to succeed him. 
 
 Ali employed all the agents in his power to promote these dissensions 
 and to increase the public distress. When he thought iiffairs were ripe 
 enough for his presence, he collected aconsiderable number of troops, pass- 
 ed the chain of Mount Pindus and made his appearance on the plains to 
 the north of loannina. This manoeuvre caused great consternation in the 
 city : the beys, in imminent danger, stifled their enmity towards each 
 other, joined their forces together, and advanced to meet the invader. 
 In a great battle which was fought at the head of the lake, they were 
 beaten and driven back into the city by Ali, who encamped before it 
 with his victorious troops. Not being strong enough to attempt it by 
 storm, he employed a surer method for success. He had already 
 gained a considerable number of adherents amongst the Greeks in the 
 city, and especially in the district of Zagori : these by bribery and 
 large promises he engaged to enter into his views and send a deputa- 
 tion to Constantinople to solicit for him the pashalic. They acted as 
 he requested ; but the opposite interest proved too strong for them at 
 the Porte, and they were made the bearers of an order to their prin- 
 cipal to retire immediately to his own government and disband his 
 troops. One of the deputies, most attached to his interest, rode forward 
 night and day, to give him early information of the failure of their 
 mission, and on this occasion Ali executed one of those strokes of po- 
 
 3 
 
SUCCEEDS BY STRATAGEM IN TAKING IOANNINA. 117 
 
 licy which have given him such advantage over the imbecility of the 
 Ottoman Porte. After a short consultation with his friend, he dis- 
 missed him to return and meet the deputies, who waited a i'ew days on 
 the road, and then proceeded straight toloannina. The beys, to whom 
 its contents had been already intimated, advanced as far as the suburbs 
 to meet, the finnan. It was produced and drawn out of its crimson 
 case ; when each reverently applied it to his forehead, in token of 
 submission to its dictates. It was then opened, and to the utter con- 
 sternation of the assembly it announced Ali, pasha of Ioannina, and 
 ordered instant submission to his authority. 
 
 The forgery was suspected by many, but some credited it ; whilst 
 others, by timely submission, sought to gain favour with the man who 
 they foresaw would be their ruler: in short, his partisans exerted 
 themselves on all sides, the be_ys were dispirited, and whilst they were 
 irresolute and undetermined, Ali entered the city amidst the acclama- 
 tions of the populace : his chief enemies in the mean time sought their 
 safety by flight, passing over the lake and taking refuge in the districts 
 of Arta, Etolia and Acarnania. 
 
 All's first care was to calm the fears of all ranks: to the people he 
 promised protection, to the beys Avho remained rich offices and plunder: 
 his friends were amply recompensed, and his enemies reconciled by his 
 frankness and engaging affability : in the mean time he put a strong 
 garrison into the castron or fortress, and thus acquired firm possession 
 of the pashalic before the imposture of the firman was discovered. It 
 was now too late to dispossess him of his acquisition : his adherents in- 
 creased daily, a numerous and respectable deputation, led by Signore 
 Alessio's father, carried a petition to Constantinople, and seconding it 
 with bribes to a large amount vdiimately prevailed in establishing his 
 usurped dominion. Thus, according to custom, despotism succeeded 
 to the turbulence of faction, and the people not unwillingly submitted 
 to the change. 
 
J 18 HIS PLAN FOR FORMING AN INDEPENDENT POWER IN EPIRUS. 
 
 Soon afterwards Ali obtained from the Porte the important office of 
 Derven-Pasha of Rumclie, which not only materially increased his re- 
 venue but gave him the means of creating an influence in many pro- 
 vinces of the Turkish empire. That proud family which had formerly 
 rejected his alliance now gladly accepted his overtures, and Ibrahim 
 pasha of Berat affianced his three daughters to the two sons of Ali, and 
 his favourite nephew Mahmoud. 
 
 Having thus established his interest on a firm footing as well in 
 Constantinople as Albania, and wielding the resources of an extensive 
 dominion, he began to act upon a larger scale, and to pursue his grand 
 plan of consolidating an independent power in Epirus, a country 
 which nature herself seems to have marked out for independence by 
 the impregnable mountain barriers with which she has surrounded and 
 protected it. The means which he resolved to take for the completion 
 of this plan, were to amass treasures, to keep agents in pay at the Otto- 
 man court, to infuse suspicion of other powers into the minds of the 
 Divan, to render himself useful to whatever European state was most 
 able to return his services, and finally to seize upon the property of his 
 neighbours whenever and by whatever methods he could. In the exe- 
 cution of these measures, his rapacity has been boundless, his penetra- 
 tion deep, his aggressions innumerable, his perfidy more than Punic, 
 but his success complete. 
 
 After the projects of Russia with regard to Greece had failed, and 
 all confidence in that power was lost by the insensible and cruel conduct 
 of its agents, Ali's enemies at Constantinople endeavoured to undermine 
 his credit, by disclosing as much as they knew or suspected of his cor- 
 respondence with Poteinkin : fertile however in expedients, and fearful 
 of a rupture with his sovereign, he found means to counteract these 
 plots, and allay the coming storm, principally, as it is asserted, by the 
 good offices of the French minister at the Porte, whom he contrived to 
 engage in his interests. Being now secure in his most important posi- 
 
 1 
 
TAKES KLISSURA, PREMETI, OSTANIZZA AND KONITZA. 119 
 
 lion lie soon found a pretext for quarrelling with his neighbour the 
 Pasha of xlrta, conquered his territories, and annexed them, as well as 
 the whole of Acarnania, to his own dominions. Thus he secured the 
 free navigation of the Ainbracian Gulf and gained possession of many 
 valuable ports in those districts. His next step was to open a free and 
 safe intercourse between Ioannina and his native territory of Tepeleni. 
 To this end he attacked and took possession of the strong post of Klis- 
 sura, where the Aous or Voiussa enters that deep defile called the 
 Fauces Antigoneae, or StenaAoi, which was occupied by Philip in the 
 first Macedonian war, where he stopped the advance of the Roman 
 legions, until the key of his position being betrayed to Flaminius by a 
 shepherd of Charopus he was driven from this strong post and obliged to 
 evacuate Epirus*. The occupation of Klissura was followed by the 
 reduction of Premcti, Ostanizza and Konitza, all capitals of most im- 
 portant districts which secured the whole course of the Voiussa from 
 its source in Mount Pindus as far as Tepeleni. 
 
 Wo have now traced the course of this extraordinary personage by 
 that imperfect light which his early annals afford, from his infancy to 
 the time when he fixed his seat in the Great Despotate of Epirus. 
 One would have thought that this success might have satisfied the am- 
 
 * His occupation of this pass is thus described by Livy, lib. xxxii. c. 5. " Principio veris (Philippus) 
 cum ^thenagora omnia externa auxilia, quodque levis armatura erat, in Chaoniam per Epirum ad. oc- 
 cupandas, qiuc ad Antigoniam Fauces sunt (Stena vocant Graci) misit. Ipse post paucis diebus graviore 
 sccutus agmine, quum situm omnem regionis aspexisset, maxime idoneum ad muniendum locum credidit 
 esse prater amnem Aoum : is inter montes, quorum alterum iEropum, alterum Asnaum incolae vo- 
 cant, angusta valle iluit, iter exiguum super ripam prabens." The mountains forming the defile are 
 now called, those on the north side Trebechina and Mejourani, those on the south Melchiovo. The 
 defile is about ten miles in length from Klissura (which from the remains of Cyclopean masonry ob- 
 servable there I take to have been Antigonea) to the junction of the Aous with the river of Argyro- 
 Castro, above Tepeleni. The precipices on each side are tremendous, being apparently more than a 
 thousand feet in perpendicular height. The positions of Philip and Athenagoras must have been about 
 mid-way in the defile, as Flaminius, when he arrived at the Aous with his army is said by Livy to 
 have encamped at the distance of five miles from the- Macedonians, (cap. 6.) Many persons have fixed 
 upon Premeti, about twelve miles higher up the Aous, for Antigonea ; but I am confirmed in my opinion 
 of its being succeeded by Klissura, from a passage of Polybius, who speaks of these straights as being 
 close to Antigonea: $ui riiv 7rop 'Avriyivtiav ceiw. 1. ii. c. 5. 
 
120 SECURES THE COURSE OP THE VOIUSSA, 
 
 bition of an Albanian kleftes ! but ambition's path is deceitful as the 
 mountain, which tempts the traveller's ascent to its false summit, and 
 then exhibits to his view another equally precipitous and lofty, to which 
 it served but as a base. 
 
 The remainder of his history, when it became connected with Euro- 
 pean politics and important enough to engage the attention of his con- 
 temporaries, offers itself much more readily to historic elucidation. 
 

 Ptoin of Partmithia and Course of the Acktron, 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Account of the Suliots— Country, Government, Habits, Manners, and 
 Customs— All's first Attempts against them — His Stratagem — Hoz» 
 defeated Anecdote of Tzavella and his Son — Ali attacks Suli — Des- 
 perate Resistance of the Suliots — Heroine Mosco — All's Defeat and 
 Flight to Ioannina— Peace concluded— AW s Policy with regard to 
 foreign Powers, and his own Government — French Occupation of the 
 Ionian Islands— Ali 's Intrigues with Bonaparte— Attends the Grand 
 Vizir against Paswan Oglou—War between Turkey and France— Ali 
 takes Advantage of it— Ionian Isles pass under the Protection of 
 Russia— Ali takes all the Continental Dependencies except Parga— 
 Terms on which these are conceded to the Porte— Ali, for his Services, 
 is made Rumelie-V alisee, with the Title of Vizir— Commences a second 
 War with the Suliots — Interprets the Prophecies of the Koran to en- 
 courage his Adherents— Lead^ his Troops against Suli— Joined by the 
 Traitor Botzari—Bad Success in several Engagements— Turns the 
 Assault into a Blockade. 
 
 TOL. II. 
 
122 ACCOUNT OF THE SULIOTS, 
 
 W HILST Ali was extending the limits of his sway towards the 
 north, the southern districts of his dominions were subjected to the in- 
 cursions of a clan, contemptible to all appearance for their numbers, 
 but impregnable in their mountain-holds, and capable, by their daring 
 courage and enthusiastic love of liberty, of attacking him in his capital, 
 and alarming him in the very recesses of his harem. These were the 
 Suliots : a people which sustained the character of ancient Greece, 
 and assumed the spirit of its independent sons. Their abode was like 
 the dwelling of a race of genii, upon a kind of natural citadel, amidst 
 the wild Cassopsean mountains, where the Acheron rolls down a dark 
 and truly infernal chasm, overhung with rocks and woods of deepest 
 gloom. The high peaks of precipices bounding this mysterious 
 glen were surmounted by fortified towers, whilst the paths leading to 
 the impending heights above scarcely admitted two persons to walk 
 abreast. During the worst eras of Grecian slavery, the flame burned 
 bright upon this hill-altar of liberty, and its worshippers breathing a 
 purer air, and excited as it were by those stupendous energies of 
 nature which they constantly had in view, preserved their physical and 
 moral strength unimpaired, not only defying tyranny, but pouring 
 down from their rocky fastnesses over the plains of the oppressor, and 
 carrying off that booty which was considered as their lawful property. 
 At Suli the rebellion was planned, under Lambro Canziani, to liberate 
 Greece from the Ottoman yoke, and the conspirators had their head- 
 quarters in these impregnable fastnesses. 
 
 Four large villages constituted the principal seats of this independent 
 clan, in a situation so singular, as probably to be unique*. They 
 lay upon a fine concave plain at the perpendicular height of about 
 2000 feet above the bed of the Acheron ; a grand natural breast-work 
 descended precipitously to the river ; whilst behind them rose a tower- 
 
 * The distance of Suli from Toannina is 14 hours; from Prevesa 13; from Arta 14; from Parga 
 8 ; from Margariti 6 ; from Paramithia 8. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. 123 
 
 ing chain of mountains, at once an ornament and defence. The 
 Acheron, after passing through the valley of Dervitziana, first enters 
 the Suliot chasm, where it is called the Gorge of Skouitias, from a 
 small village of that name : a narrow path, which winds amidst the 
 darkest woods upon the right bank, conducts the traveller in about two 
 hours to a narrow cut across his path, called Klissura, admirably cal- 
 culated to stop the progress of an enemy. This defile was commanded 
 by a fort called Tichos, and near it was the first village of the Suliot 
 republic, called Navarico or Avarico. From hence a gradual ascent 
 leads to the deserted site of Samoniva ; thence to Kiaffa, signifying a 
 height, and lastly to Suli, the capital of the tribe, which was generally 
 styled Kako-Suli, like the Kaxoixiov of Homer, from the difficulties it op- 
 posed to a conqueror. Near the spot where the mountain -path leaves 
 the side of the Acheron, to wind up the precipices between KiafTa and 
 Kako-Suli, a conical hill overhangs the road, called Kunghi, on which 
 stood the largest of the Suliot fortresses, named Aghia Paraskevi*, or 
 Saint Friday. At the same spot another small river, flowing from the 
 Paramithian mountains, joins the Acheron, which, descending down 
 the romantic defile of Glykl, enters the great Paramithian plain, and 
 empties itself, after flowing through the Acherusian lake, into the 
 Ionian sea, near the ancient city of Cichyrus or Ephyre. (See the 
 plan at the head of this chapter.) 
 
 Such was the situation of the Suliot republic : no vestiges of any 
 ancient cities have been discovered within its boundaries, nor is it 
 clear to what tribe of former ages they have succeeded, though the 
 Selli of Homer apparently offer the fairest claim to pre-occupation of 
 the soil-f*. The date of the Suliot settlement on these mountains is 
 
 * Tlapaaricevrj and KvptaKri, i. e. Friday and Sunday, are among the common names given to the 
 Greek girls. 
 
 + Homer certainly places the Selli somewhere in this neighbourhood, in the 16th book of the 
 Iliad, 1. 233. 
 
 Zev, &va Awcwvaie, TlcXatryuci, rrjKoBi vaiwv, 
 
 Xoi vaiua t/Tro^rJTai, driirroiroetq, ^afiaevvat' 
 And these very Selli appear to have taken their name, or given it, to the river Acheron, the identical 
 
 r2 
 
124 GOVERNMENT.- 
 
 referred by tradition to the middle of the 17th century, when some 
 goat and swine-herds having led their animals to feed upon the heights 
 of Kiaffa, were struck with the eligibility of the situation, and occupied 
 it with their families. 
 
 As the population of this small and humble colony increased, it 
 attracted the attention of its neighbours, and sustained many wars with 
 the beys of Paramithia and Margariti, as well as the pashas of 
 Ioannina and Arta. In all these however it was defended by the in- 
 accessible nature of its rocky site, whilst the determined bravery of its 
 citizens enabled it to wrest numerous possessions from the hands of its 
 opponents, and to extend the limits of its sway far beyond the bound- 
 aries of its original territory. Before their first war with Ali Pasha, the 
 Suliots possessed sixty-six villages, all conquered by their arms. The 
 citizens of the republic were classed in divisions called faras: each fara 
 contained a certain number of families, and was commanded by its own 
 chief or captain. Of these 
 
 Kako-Suli contained 19 faras and 425 families. 
 Kiaffa _--- 4 — and GO — 
 
 river of Suli, in very early times. See a passage in Homer's Catalogue, v. 166, where the poet says that 
 Hercules carried off Astyochea out of the city of Ephyre, from the river 2tXXj/£<e' 
 
 T»)v ayir it, 'E^uprje nora/iS find ZtWiievTOS' 
 
 Strabo, indeed, places Ephyre and this river in Elis, where I find no mention made of such by Pau- 
 sanias or any other author : but the Scholiast intimates the probability of this being the Thesprotian 
 Ephyre, which is frequently mentioned by Homer under this appellation, or that of Cichyrus : and 
 Strabo himself, unconsciously enough, gives good reasons for agreeing with the Scholiast : for he says, 
 that the expeditions of Hercules were frequent in this region, and that it was celebrated for poisons : 
 now we know, that Hercules was the friend and guest of Aidoneus or Pluto, king of the Molossi, 
 who reigned in this neighbourhood, from whom he liberated his friend and companion Theseus; 
 and Homer has particularly distinguished this Ephyre for its production of poison, making Ulysses 
 go there for the very purpose of procuring it. 
 
 "ili^fro yap Kqceiae Sofje tin ri/os 'OivaatvQ 
 QapftaKou avipo(j>6vov Btiri/iivog, o<j>pd it Hi} 
 las \pica$at ^aXKripcae. Cd. a. 260. 
 
 With regard to the names of ScXXoi and StXXj'/tic, I know not whence they are derived ; but it is pro- 
 bable that they may allude to some religious rites. Eustathius, in his Commentary upon Homer, ob- 
 serves, that wherever there was an Ephyre, there was also a river named SeXXjjeij. 
 
HABITS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS. 125 
 
 Avarico contained 3 faras and 55 families. 
 Samoniva 3 — and 30 — 
 
 When the inhabitants of these towns increased beyond the means of 
 support, seven were selected out of their sixty-six tributary villages, 
 to which they sent colonies of native Suliots, who were exempted 
 from paying either forced contributions, or the regular tribute, which 
 was a tenth of all produce. Thus in the village called Tzicuri five 
 faras were settled ; in Pericati two ; in Villa two ; in Alsocori three ; 
 in Kondati one; in Gionala three; and in Tzephleki two. 
 
 The character of this people was warlike in the extreme; and martial 
 exercises comprised almost the whole system of their education. Their 
 chief amusements were the dance and song, the former of which con- 
 tributed to increase their bodily strength, and the latter to animate their 
 zeal and feed their national enthusiasm: they were passionately attach- 
 ed to their country, which, in spite of traitors who were seduced by the 
 gold of the pasha, would probably have continued to defy his power, 
 but for the pressure of political circumstances. They had a chosen 
 band of 1000 palikars, all citizens of the four principal towns; but 
 1500 more were embodied from the seven colonies and the other de- 
 pendencies, during their contests with Ali Pasha. The plan of their 
 warfare, as was the case in ancient times, consisted more in skirmishes 
 than pitched battles, in daring expeditions, sudden attacks, and quick 
 retreats: great examples of heroic devotion were exhibited by indivi- 
 duals; and their harangues breathed in a great degree the fire and spirit 
 of antiquity. The women of this republic were scarcely interior to the 
 men in bravery, or less eager to share in all the perils of war. Troops 
 of heroines constantly attended upon the soldiers, to carry provisions 
 and ammunition, to assist the wounded, and, if necessary, to engage in 
 battle. The most celebrated of these amazons was Mosco, the wife of 
 Captain Tzavella, and mother of the gallant Foto, the Hector of this 
 
126 KA3ITS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 new Troy, whose name is still celebrated in many a Greek and Alba- 
 nian song. Her exploits might rival those of the heroine of Zaragossa. 
 
 The Suliots had no written law, but many customs handed down 
 from time immemorial served to regulate their conduct: judicial affairs 
 were generally referred to the captain of the fara, or in cases of diffi- 
 culty to a council of chiefs, convened from the four towns, in Kako- 
 Suli. To animate their men the more, the women took precedence at 
 the wells and fountains, according to the character which their hus- 
 bands bore for bravery, and if a woman had the misfortune to be 
 wedded to a coward, she was obliged ignominiously to wait till the rest 
 had filled their pitchers. It was found that few men could endure the 
 torrent of reproaches that was generally poured upon them at the 
 return of their indignant spouses. The females of this republic 
 were held in such esteem that no man was allowed, under the severest 
 penalties, to interfere even in their quarrels, lest by accident a woman 
 might be killed ; and whoever committed such an act was put to 
 death as a patricide, with the execrations of all the citizens. They 
 had an extraordinary custom in their wars of sending out a small body 
 of troops against a superior force, and, on the contrary, a large body 
 against a small one. In the first instance, they intimidated their foes, 
 who knew they were prepared to conquer or to die; in the latter, they 
 were able to secure more prisoners, and gain a greater ransom for the 
 purchase of arms and ammunition. Like the ancient Spartans, they 
 never inquired about the numbers of an enemy, but only where that 
 enemy might be found. 
 
 Such was the republic with which now Ali prepared to engage : 
 without its destruction he foresaw that all his future plans must fail, 
 since the Suliots were not only the best soldiers in the ranks of his 
 enemies, but were possessed of the strongest hold in the very midst of 
 his dominions, where they gave refuge to the discontented, and from 
 whence they issued to ravage his territories whenever he was engaged 
 
ALI'S FIRST ATTEMPTS AGAINST THEM. 127 
 
 in distant warfare. The preparations for his first expedition were made 
 in 1792. He then assembled an army of about 10,000 men, all tried 
 Albanian troops, giving out his intentions of attacking the town of 
 Argyro-Castro, the beys of which had been his most inveterate ene- 
 mies in the early stages of his career. Under this pretext he endea- 
 voured to lull the Suliots into a fatal security, requesting their alliance 
 and co-operation, with the offer of double pay and rewards propor- 
 tionate to their acknowledged valour. The following is a copy of the 
 letter which he wrote on this occasion to their two most celebrated 
 captains, named Botzari and Tzavella. 
 
 " >t>l\oifiu Kairirdv Mirdr^apr; teat Kairirdv T£a/3e'\\«, 'Eyii 6 'A\>; Tlaoae trac \aiptriii, Kai <rac 
 AtXw ra yuaria. 'EirttS^ Kai tyio £et/pti> iroXKa na\a Ttjv dvipayaBiav aag, nai vaXiKapiavaaQ, fiu 
 ^aivtrai vd t^ai fxeydXrjv ypiiav airi) Xoynaae' Aonrvv /iq Kufierc dXXiwg irapaKaXd, o'XX' evSvg 07r« 
 Xdfitre riiv ypatyqv fit* vd /xaZwfeTt iiXaaas rd iraXiKapia icdi vd iX&e-c vd fit evptrt Sio vd irdyw vd ttc 
 Xeu)'i<T(t) thc cyflpuf fiu' T«r>) eivai >; &pa Kai 6 caepoc, virS tyy) ^piiav otto Xoya <raf, Kdi jiivw vd liH 
 rijv ftXiav <xa£, Kdi Tr)v dydirrjv bira ix tTt *> l< * ^>yt) (*"' O Xmpic »«C ~tXei etvai hirXotj our* oaov BlBia 
 its t«c ' Apfiaviraf dtari icdt >j iraXtKapid <rac ftpai 7r«c livat 7ro\\ci fityaXtiTtpij aVo rr)v iciktjv r»f, 
 Aoivbv kyi> Sty vt]ydivo> vd itoXefiifaia irplv rd ZXStrc laitg, Kdi <rac KapTtpH oyXriympa vd ZXSiTt' 
 Tavra, Kdi adg ^aipCTUi. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " My friends Captain Botzari and Captain Tzavella — I, Ali Pasha, 
 salute you and kiss your eyes. Since I am well acquainted with your 
 courage and spirit, it appears to me that I have great need of your 
 assistance. Wherefore I beseech you take no other resolution when 
 you receive my letter, but assemble together all your palikars and 
 come to meet me, that I may march to combat against my enemies. 
 This is the very season and the time in which I need your help, and I 
 expect to see the friendship and the love you bear towards me. Your 
 pay shall be double that which I give to my Albanians, for I know 
 your valour is superior to theirs. As I shall not go to war before you 
 arrive, I entreat you to come quickly. This, and farewel." 
 
128 HIS STRATAGEM. 
 
 The Captains Botzari and Tzavella called a council of their coun- 
 trymen upon the receipt of this epistle. It was read before them, but 
 very few were dupes of its artifice and insincerity. They returned for 
 answer that their warriors were always necessary at home for the de- 
 fence of their country, but that anxious to oblige his highness and 
 secure his friendship, they had given Captain Tzavella permission to 
 lead out seventy palikars and attend him to victory. 
 
 Ali, as soon as he received this force, that he might conceal his 
 designs from all suspicion, began his march in the direction of Ar- 
 gyro-Castro, but scarcely proceeded twenty miles before he halted 
 and encamped. On such occasions it was a custom with the Suliots 
 to exercise themselves in running, leaping, wrestling, and other 
 manly sports ; and for this purpose, they had now unsuspectingly laid 
 aside their arms, when orders were suddenly given to arrest them. 
 All were immediately seized and bound with fetters, except three; 
 two of these snatching up their weapons fought desperately till they 
 fell covered with wounds, whilst the other, a man remarkably swift 
 of foot, made his escape, unhurt by a thousand shots that were fired 
 after him, swam over the river Kaiamas, and directing his course to 
 Suli, arrived in time to put his countrymen upon their guard against 
 their insidious enemy. 
 
 In fact, the pasha made his appearance in their district the very 
 day after, with his whole army. But finding the Suliots advised of 
 his intentions, and fully prepared to give him a warm reception, he 
 deferred his attack until he could try the effect of artifice and deceitful 
 negotiation. Having ordered Captain Tzavella to be brought into his 
 presence, he promised him the most ample rewards upon condition of 
 his procuring the submission of the republic, with the horrible alter- 
 native of being flayed alive if his fellow-citizens continued obstinate 
 in their opposition. " Release me from my fetters then," said Tza- 
 vella, " for my countrymen will never submit whilst I am in your 
 power." Ali however, too wary to let his prey escape him thus, 
 
ANECDOTE OF TZAVELLA AND HIS SON. 129 
 
 demanded what security he would give for his return if his mission 
 should prove unsuccessful. " My only son Foto, who is a thousand 
 times dearer to me, and more valuable to his country, than my own 
 life." Upon these conditions Tzavella was released, and an equal 
 number of Albanians and Suliots met at the bottom of the moun- 
 tain to exchange the prisoners. 
 
 As soon as the chief arrived in Suli he convoked all the other 
 captains in council, explained fully the conduct and motives of the 
 pasha, assured them that they had nothing to hope from his promises 
 or his clemency, exhorted them to prepare for a vigorous defence, and 
 be under no concern for him or his family, every member of which 
 would feel a pride in sacrificing his life for the safety of his country. 
 In the mean time he contrived to gain a delay for the purposes of 
 defence, by protracting negotiations with the pasha ; and not before 
 Suli was armed at all points did he transmit the following letter to the 
 tyrant. 
 
 " 'AX?j TTaod, ■)(atpofiai otra eytXaaa 'iva idXtoV T Et^at l$u> va iia<pcvTtvao> Ttjv irarplda ftu Ivavrlov 
 its iva K\i(fiTr)v' '0 vwg fin SiXei diroSdvu, lyio ojjiioq diriXirfcwg SiXei tov leiiKiiato Ttp\v va diroQdvtif 
 Kairoioi TSpnoi, Ka$&>Q laiva, SiXvv liiruv, oti et/xai aaTtXayxyos iraripaQ, fie to vd Svaiaati) tov 
 vwv jxa Sid tov icjikov fin Xvrpwfiov' d-KOKplvOfiai Sri av lav irappe to f3uvbv, BiXeig a^oTuaei tov ihov ixu 
 fit to IvlXotrrov rrjg (pautXlag fin, Kat Tug avfiirarpiiiTag fin' Tore <5ev Bd yfiiropfiabj va ekc?(/o/o-(<i tov 
 Suvutov rn' dfif) av yucrjawfitv, •Je'Xei 'i%0) dXXa ?rai<W' f] yvvaiKa fin k ivat via- 'Eciy 6 iiwg fin, viog 
 Ka&iig livai Scv fiivu Iv-^api^iffiivog va $vot.aa$ij Sid Ttfv iraTpiCaru, avTog Stv Itvat a^iog va £i}<n), Kat 
 vd yvwpl&Tai uig vwg fin, firjre irpiirci vd ovofidfcrai d^tog vwg rfjg 'EXXa^oc irarpiSog fiag, lav fie 
 ytwatOTrira dev vwoQtpu tvv Savarov. Tlpo-)(uipTiaai Xourbv, dtri^e, eifiai dvvmfiovog vd ckSikti^H' 
 
 'Eyoj 6 Sifiwofilvog l%$p6g an 
 KairtTav Adfiwpog T£a(iiXXac. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " Ali Pasha, I rejoice that I have deceived a deceiver. I am here 
 to defend my country against a robber. My son is doomed to death, 
 
 VOL. II. s 
 
130 A|il ATTACKS SUM. 
 
 but i will desperately avenge him before I die. Some Turks, like 
 yourself, will say that I am a merciless father to sacrifice my child for 
 my own liberation. I answer, that if you had taken the mountain 
 you would have massacred my son with all the rest of my family 
 and my countrymen. In that case I could not have revenged his 
 death. If we are victorious, I shall have other children ; my wife 
 is young. If my boy be not willing, young as he is, to sacrifice himself 
 for his country, he is not worthy to live or to be acknowledged as a 
 child of mine ; nor ought he to be named as a worthy son of Greece, 
 unless he can meet death with fortitude. Advance then, thou traitor, 
 I am impatient for revenge ; I, your sworn enemy, 
 
 " Captain Lambro Tzavella." 
 
 The pasha, as it may be supposed, was highly indignant at this answer 
 and the failure of his insidious schemes. He did not however put the 
 boy to death, but sent him to Ioannina, to be confined there with the 
 rest of his countrymen. On his arrival he was brought into the pre- 
 sence of Ali's chief minister Mahomet Effendi, and his son Vely, who 
 put his constancy to the proof by informing him that they had received 
 the pasha's orders to roast him alive. " Have you ?" replied the undaunt- 
 ed youth. " Then if my father conquers he will serve you the same." 
 His heroic answer pleased Vely, who is by no means of a cruel dispo- 
 sition, and Foto was merely sent into confinement at one of the monas- 
 teries of the island. 
 
 In the mean time the pasha prepared to attack Suli by force of 
 arms; though an occurrence had well nigh taken place which would have 
 rid the Suliots at once of this dangerous enemy. A band of these brave 
 mountaineers, to the number of 200, having learned that Ali was en- 
 camped with his body-guard alone at some little distance from his 
 main army, marched out with a firm determination to take him, alive 
 or dead : but the pasha was informed of the plot by a traitor to the 
 cause, and removed his head-quarters to a place of safety : the dis- 
 
DESPERATE RESISTANCE OF THE SULIOTS. 13] 
 
 covery however animated his fury to such a pitch that he gave orders 
 to enter the defiles, and put his troops immediately in motion. 
 
 The Suliots were obliged to retreat before superior numbers from 
 their southern frontiers in the district called Laka, which lies towards 
 Arta and Prevesa. The Turks pursued them with great spirit down 
 the valley of the Acheron, but received a check at the pass of Klis- 
 sura, being there met with such volleys of musketry from the fortress 
 of Tichos by which it is commanded, as well as from behind the 
 rocks and precipices, that the passage became nearly choked up 
 by their dead bodies. The pasha, who had taken his station upon one 
 of the opposite mountains called Bogoritza, observed a strange confu- 
 sion amongst his troops, and sent to inquire the cause : when it was 
 told him he was unable to restrain his fury, but ordered the tower to be 
 taken at any expence, offering various rewards, and one of 500 purses to 
 that man who should first enter Kako-Suli. The Albanians now fought 
 like lions under the inspection of their chief and upon the strength of 
 his promises ; but the pass of Thermopylae itself could not have been 
 more bravely defended than was Klissura by the gallant Suliots, Avho had 
 this advantage on their side, that they fought under cover of the rocks, 
 huge fragments of which were hurled down upon their assailants by the 
 very women and children. The Albanians now fell in such numbers 
 that the- dead bodies formed, as it were, a wall between the combatants, 
 and choked up the pass : the ammunition of the Suliots at length be- 
 gan to fail, their fire slackened, and fresh troops of their enemies con- 
 stantly succeeding, they retired towards Kiaffa. The Turks did not 
 wait to carry the fortress of Tichos, but leaving it in their rear, set up 
 the yell of war and rushed after the Suliots, whilst the pasha, viewing 
 all these actions from his position through a telescope, was already in 
 imagination master of the capital. In this attack Pronio Aga of Para- 
 mithia, a man of great courage and gigantic stature, who was attended 
 to the war by several of his sons, all noted warriors, highly distinguished 
 himself: so also did Hassan Zapari, the most powerful bey of Margaritk 
 
 s 2 
 
132 HEROINE MOSCO-ALPS DEFEAT. 
 
 a large Turkish town in the district of Tzamouria. Kiaffa was soon 
 found to be untenable by the Suliots ; it was therefore deserted by all 
 the inhabitants, who took refuge in their inaccessible mountains, whilst 
 the troops of the republic, followed by the pasha's army, retreated 
 towards Kako-Suli. The great fort of Aghia Paraskevi upon Kunghi, 
 which commands the Tripa, a deep chasm between Kiaffa and the capi- 
 tal, was at this time so thinly garrisoned as to be unable to intercept 
 the pursuers ; and Suli would have been lost but for an act of fe- 
 male valour which well deserves comparison with that of Telesilla and 
 her Argives. The heroine Mosco arming all her female warriors, 
 rushed out of the town sword in hand, stopped the retreat of husbands 
 and brethren, headed them in a valiant attack upon the assailants, who 
 were nearly breathless by their pursuit up these steep acclivities, and in 
 a moment turned the tide of war. The Albanians in their turn 
 retreated and fled ; the garrison of Paraskevi, which had received a 
 number of fugitives, made a sally to increase their confusion ; heaps of 
 stones, which stood ready piled upon the edges of the precipices, were 
 rolled down upon the flying foe, who were again intercepted at the 
 foot of Tichos and almost annihilated : hundreds of dead bodies were 
 rolled into the bed of the Acheron, whose torrent was encumbered with 
 the slain and whose waters were dyed with blood. 
 
 Arrived at this tower Mosco discovered the body of her favourite 
 nephew, a youth of great promise, who had been killed in the first 
 attack of the position. Animated with a desire of vengeance at this 
 sight, she kissed the pale lips of the corpse, and crying out, " Since I 
 have not arrived in time to save thy life, I will yet avenge thy death," 
 she called on the Suliots to follow her example, and led them like a 
 tigress that has lost her whelps, against those troops of the enemy who 
 remained about the pasha in the upper regions of the valley. These 
 being dispirited and terrified by the fate of their companions, took im- 
 mediately to flight, and Mere pursued by the victorious Suliots as far as 
 the village of Vareatis, which is within seven hours of Ioannina : they 
 
PEACE CONCLUDED. 133 
 
 lost all their baggage, ammunition, and arms, which were thrown away 
 in the flight, besides an immense number of prisoners, whose ransom 
 served to enrich the conquerors. Ali himself killed two horses in his 
 precipitate escape, and when he arrived at his capital he shut himself 
 up in his harem for several days, where he admitted no one to his pre- 
 sence except a few of his most confidential friends*. 
 
 Scarcely a thousand men returned from this expedition with their 
 arms : about 6000 are said to have been slain or taken prisoners, and 
 the other 3000 having been dispersed over the woods and mountains, 
 did not collect together again at Ioannina before the expiration of 
 several weeks. Ali having now given up the conquest of Suli as hope- 
 less for the present, entered into negotiation with its citizens and con- 
 cluded a peace upon condition of ceding to them possession of their 
 acquired territory as far as Dervitziana, of restoring his seventy pri- 
 soners, together with Tzavella's son, and of paying a very large sum as 
 a ransom for his captive troops. The beys of Paramithia and Marga- 
 riti, who had been induced by his wiles to assist in this war, made a 
 separate treaty, by which they bound themselves in future to become 
 allies instead of enemies to the republic. 
 
 About this time the political horizon became darkened with the har- 
 bingers of those storms and tempests that so long convulsed every state 
 in Europe. French revolutionists were very busy around Ali; great 
 hopes were held out to make him throw off the yoke of obedience to 
 the Porte and assume the independent sovereignty of Epirus; and it is 
 supposed that one of his chief reasons for attacking Suli was, that he 
 might, in case of revolt, have established himself in so impregnable a 
 fortress. Failing however in his projects, he became wary of his new 
 friends, and was too crafty to commit himself with his own govern- 
 ment before he had sufficiently consolidated his power: his great aim 
 was to dispossess the Venetians of their settlements upon the coast; for 
 
 * T s slaughter occurred July 20, 1792. 
 
134 ALPS POLICY WITH REGARD TO FOREIGN POWERS. 
 
 he plainly saw that whilst these afforded a rendezvous to the discon- 
 tented who fled from his government, as well as arms and ammunition 
 to his enemies, he never could raise that fabric of power of which he 
 had already laid the foundation : but as yet he had neither means nor 
 opportunity : many powerful independent clans were interposed be- 
 tween them and his territories : he had no marine, nor the means of 
 forming one : he had no ports, except one for small craft at Salagora on 
 the gulf of Arta ; neither had he the power of protecting the small share 
 of commerce which he possessed; for the politic Venetians had procured 
 a clause to be inserted in their treaty with the Porte, that no subject of 
 that state should build a fort within a mile of the Ionian coast, nor 
 sail with any armed vessel through the channel of Corfu. In this state 
 of things he armed himself, as he knows well how to do upon occasion, 
 with patience: his penetrating mind could clearly foresee the future 
 disunion of political engagements and the distraction of foreign powers. 
 He determined therefore to wait for the appointed time, and instead of 
 acting in opposition to his government, to use it as the chief instru- 
 ment of his aggrandizement, making his own acts of usurpation appear 
 like its equitable claims or fair reprisals. 
 
 In the mean time he turned his attention to the improvement of his 
 capital, in which he laid the foundations of the new fort surrounding the 
 palace of Litaritza, to the construction of roads for the greater facility of 
 internal commerce, to the extirpation of robbers who at this time infested 
 all parts of the country, to the formation of alliances with neighbouring 
 chiefs, and most particularly to the accumulation of wealth, well know- 
 ing the efficacy of that powerful engine which is not unaptly termed 
 the sinews of war : his subjects however had no great reason to bless 
 the ambitious designs of their ruler, being ground down by his oppres- 
 sive avanias, and put to great inconvenience by the diminution of the 
 circulating medium : at present however he did not think proper to 
 shew fully that severity of character which has since been displayed in 
 so many acts of consummate cruelty. 
 
HIS INTRIGUES WITH BONAPARTE. 13,5 
 
 At this time the convulsions of revolution agitated the whole conti- 
 nent of Europe, and possessions soon began to change their masters. 
 In 1797 Ali saw the Venetians driven from the Ionian islands and their 
 continental dependencies, whilst the French flag waved upon the shores 
 of Epirus* : this was the moment for which he had anxiously waited. 
 Suspecting that the Great Republic entertained views against the totter- 
 ing power of Turkey, which political circumstances at this time tended 
 strongly to promote, he began to intrigue with its victorious general, 
 and accordingly sent a confidential agent to Bonaparte's head quarters 
 in the north of Italy. The French general, who had received accurate 
 information respecting the character and conduct of the Albanian chief- 
 tain, entered with alacrity into negotiations and proposed to make 
 use of him as a powerful instrument in the promotion of his ulterior 
 designs. Thus these two great and crafty personages were now 
 matched ; each anxious to deceive the other and turn him to his own 
 particular advantage. The benefits Avhich Ali received from this alli- 
 ance were certain and immediate. He gained permission to sail with 
 his flotilla through the channel of Corfu in spite of former treaties : he 
 surprised the two independent towns of Aghio Vasili and Nivitza, 
 massacred the poor inhabitants in church whilst they were celebrating the 
 festival of our Lord's resurrection, and having thus established himself 
 upon the sea coast opposite Corfu, in the midst of the most formidable, 
 wealthy and independent tribes of Albania, was ready to seize upon every 
 advantage that futurity might hold forth : in fact he very soon took 
 possession of the important fishery at Santa Quaranta as well as the 
 large and excellent harbour of Porto Palermo, where he afterwards 
 built a large fort, and thus drew, as it were, a cordon round the Pashalic 
 of Delvino : at the same time his agents made a merit of these acts at 
 Constantinople, by representing them as done solely for the advantage 
 
 * The Ionian isles, together with the continental towns of Prevesa, Vonizza, Butrinto, Parga, and 
 Gomenizza, were placed under the dominion of the French Republic by the treaty of Campo Formio. 
 
 1 
 
jg6 ATTENDS THE GRAND VIZIR AGAINST PASWAN OGLOU. 
 
 of the Porte and the subjugation of infidels; Ali himself confirmed their 
 report by paying tribute to the Sultan for every place he conquered, 
 and acknowledging the feudal tenure under which he held the 
 government. 
 
 Still further to ingratiate himself with his sovereign he headed his 
 contingent of Albanian troops, joined the Grand Vizir in his campaign 
 against the rebel Pas wan Oglou, and highly distinguished himself in 
 the unsuccessful attack of Vidin. An anecdote is related of him at this 
 period which clearly shews the line of conduct he had resolved to pur- 
 sue with regard to his flattering but insidious court. The Grand Vizir, 
 under pretence of bestowing public approbation upon his conduct, 
 requested his attendance in full divan. Ali, conscious how much 
 more he merited the bowstring than half the victims upon whom that 
 punishment has fallen, went boldly, but surrounded the vizir's tent with 
 six thousand faithful Albanians: as might be expected, his reception was 
 courteous, but the conference was short. Soon after this event he re- 
 ceived intelligence of the invasion of Egypt and the probable rupture 
 between France and Turkey. Ever anxious to turn the course of 
 events to his own advantage, and conjecturing that another transfer of 
 the Ionian islands might possibly take place, he returned in great haste 
 to loannina, leaving his eldest son Mouchtar in command of his troops. 
 As was foreseen, the Porte declared war against the French republic, 
 and a combined armament of the Russians and Turks was prepared to 
 wrest the seven islands from a power which had shewn evident inten- 
 tions of making this a focus from whence European Turkey might be 
 attacked. Ali however, before he took part against his French allies, 
 was anxious to know in what state of defence the Ionian government 
 stood, and whether it was capable of resisting the force about to be 
 employed against it; for this purpose, under pretence of giving some 
 important information to the commandant of Corfu he requested a 
 conference with the Adjutant General Rosa, naming him because he 
 had resided for a long time at loannina, had married a wife in that city, 
 3 
 
WAR BETWEEN TURKEY AND FRANCE. 137 
 
 and was a personal acquaintance. The place of conference was at 
 a small dogana, or custom-house, near the town of Philates : having 
 there gained from the general all the information possible by fair 
 means, he extorted by torture a declaration of the defenceless state 
 to which the French in the islands were reduced ; after which he dis- 
 patched him to Constantinople, under plea of his being a spy sent from 
 Corfu to excite a revolt among the Albanians. Soon after his arrival 
 at that city he died in consequence of his ill treatment. 
 
 The information which Ali had thus gained decided his political con- 
 duct : pretending a vehement zeal for the good of his country and the 
 honour of the crescent, he offered a cordial co-operation with the allied 
 powers, by undertaking the reduction of the ex-Venetian towns upon 
 the continent, and his offer was unfortunately accepted. 
 
 The three great powers at this time engaged in active operations 
 against France, were England, Russia, and Turkey. The plan pur- 
 sued by them in the Ionian Sea deviated a little from its original des- 
 tination. It was at first resolved that Russia and Turkey should act 
 together in Egypt, and that England should take upon herself alone the 
 task of expelling the French from their Septinsular possessions; in 
 consequence of which arrangement instructions were sent out to 
 Lord Nelson to dispatch a division of his fleet for this service under 
 the command of the gallant Sir Sidney Smith. Proclamations were 
 issued by his lordship inviting the islanders to take up arms in vin- 
 dication of their rights and liberty, whilst a strong exhortation to the 
 same effect was procured from the Patriarch of Constantinople, and ex- 
 tensively circulated. The expedition was on the point of sailing when 
 the scheme was disconcerted by the cunning policy of one of the con- 
 federates. The Russians ever on the alert to seize any opportunity of 
 distinguishing themselves on this theatre and of amalgamating them- 
 selves with the cause of Greece, waited only till they had obtained a 
 passage through the straits of the Dardanelles before they declared 
 their intention of sailing immediately for the Ionian Isles instead of 
 
 VOL. II. T 
 
13S ALI TAKES ADVANTAGE OP IT. 
 
 Egypt ; and this they did under pretext of many strong invitations sent 
 them by the inhabitants, who desired liberation and protection at the 
 hands of a nation which professed the same religious faith as them- 
 selves : but that it was only a pretext, appeared evident from the 
 circumstance that greatest part of their crews and land forces in the 
 expedition, both officers and men, were composed of Greeks. It 
 was however now too late for the other allies to raise objections 
 and hazard a rupture. The English squadron was cheerfully dispatch- 
 ed to the shores of Egypt, since our interests were much more con- 
 cerned in that quarter, and the Porte, though duped, determined to 
 yield with a good grace and to accompany the Russian fleet with a 
 portion of its own, though they sent the greatest part to co-operate 
 with the British admiral. 
 
 Long before the arrival of the allied fleets in these seas, Ali who had 
 his own interest alone in view, determined to commence operations. I 
 have before mentioned that the strongest and most advantageous of 
 all the ex-Venetian towns upon his coast was Prevesa; a city which is 
 now the key of his marine, the Portsmouth of Albania. To prepare 
 this place for an easy surrender he had long employed all his talents, 
 craft, and ingenuity; the principal agents in his secret treacheries 
 were, shame to say ! a Christian bishop, and Captain Botzari, that 
 distinguished Suliot whom we have before seen fighting brave- 
 ly on the side of liberty and honour ! By the first of these instru- 
 ments he sowed dissensions among the Prevesans and gained over 
 with deceitful promises a large party to his interests, persuading them 
 that their good and the destruction of the French were his only objects : 
 by the second he procured a free passage for his troops, all of whom 
 might have been intercepted and cut to pieces in the dangerous defiles 
 of the Cassopaean mountains. If indeed the Suliots had taken ad- 
 vantage of this opportunity, when Ali was engaged with Prevesa and 
 the regular troops of France, they might have crushed that viper from 
 whose deadly fangs they have since suffered so grievously. 
 
CAPTURES PREVESA. 139 
 
 The detention of one of his brigs sailing into the gulf of Arta, unless 
 the story, as some believe, was forged for the purpose, gave the pasha 
 a nominal pretext for attacking his former allies. Rapid in execution 
 as he is quick in design, he put his army, consisting of about 5000 men, 
 instantly in motion, and gave the command to his son Mouchtar. The 
 unfortunate Prevesans, taken unprepared, had scarcely time to send 
 their families and moveable property to the neighbouring islands; whilst 
 many actually discrediting the report of the pasha's approach retained 
 them unfortunately at home. General Salsette however, who com- 
 manded the French garrison, had better information, and summoned 
 the principal citizens to take into consideration measures of defence : 
 at this council it was determined, under the joint influence of ignorance 
 and treachery, to throw up works and defend the Isthmus of Nicopolis, 
 over which it was necessary for the Albanians to march in their ap- 
 proach to Prevesa. A great portion of the people seconded the deter- 
 mination with ardour, and applied themselves to the fortification of this 
 ' Plain of Victory :' unfortunately the engineer officer who had the di- 
 rection of the works died within a few days of their commencement, 
 and scarcely time was left to throw up two weak redoubts, before the 
 pasha's troops appeared, covering the range of hills that rises to the 
 north of Nicopolis. 
 
 Expedition is the very soul of Ali's warfare ; having ordered his tent 
 to be fixed upon an eminence, whence he could see all the operations, 
 and where the tent of Augustus probably stood before an action of 
 much greater importance in the affairs of the world, he gave orders for 
 the attack of the French and Prevesans in their position. The Alba- 
 nian infantry set up the yell of war, and poured down from the heights 
 upon their intimidated foes, whilst Mouchtar charged the French 
 troops in one of the redoubts at the head of his cavalry: these 
 latter capitulated after an honourable resistance, but the wretched 
 Prevesans were soon routed and driven in precipitate flight towards 
 the city: it was entered at the same moment by the pursuers and 
 
 t 2 
 
140 PUTS HIS PRISONERS TO DEATH. 
 
 pursued, and given up to all the horrors that could proceed from a sa- 
 vage and infuriated soldiery, who continued the scenes of murder, rape, 
 and pillage during this and the succeeding day*. Whatever excuse 
 Ali might endeavour to make for this gratification of vengeance, in the 
 impracticability of restraining his soldiers and breaking those promises 
 which he made to them before the expedition, his most zealous partisans 
 would find it difficult to frame one for the inhuman act which it be- 
 comes our duty now to relate. On the third day after the victory, his 
 Episcopal ally undertook a mission to Vonizza, which lies in a beautiful 
 recess of the Ambracian Gulf, whose inhabitants he persuaded to sub- 
 mit to the pasha and to cut off the heads of four Frenchmen who lay 
 sick in the hospital. With this bloody present he was returning to his 
 master, when he found at the punta or point at the other side of the bay 
 opposite Prevesa, a multitude of poor wretches who had escaped from 
 the slaughter and were hiding themselves, half-naked and famished, 
 among the bushes that cover the spot. The unfortunate creatures 
 crowded round him and entreated his good offices with the pasha. 
 These he promised, gave them great consolation in the assurance of suc- 
 cess, and advised them to return with him to Prevesa. Accordingly 
 they accompanied him, contrary to the warning voice of a benevolent 
 Turk who happened to be present, and who knew intimately the cha- 
 racter of him they were about to trust. On their arrival at the city, 
 they were, in spite of promises and assurances, thrown into prison 
 by the inexorable Ali, and next day transported with about two 
 hundred more victims across the gulf of Arta to his dogana of Sala- 
 gora, there to suffer death in cold blood by the hands of an execu- 
 tionerf ; the only criminal act imputed to them being their union with 
 
 * Had Prevesa been defended, as it ought to have been, under its own walls, such a check might 
 have been given to Ali as would have induced many places to revolt against him, or at any rate have 
 given time for the succours to arrive which were actually on their way from Santa Maura under a gal- 
 lant young Prevesan captain named Cristachi, and which were only detained by a contrary wind. 
 
 + It is but justice to the bishop to say that this massacre, which he little expected, lay so heavy on 
 nis mind, that he took advantage of a mission upon which he was soon after sent by Ali to Corfu, to de- 
 sert his patron and his native country : nor was the pasha ever able to induce him by any offers or bribe* 
 to return. 
 
SINGULAR INSTANCE OF PRESENCE OF MIND. 141 
 
 the French in opposing his occupation of their city. I was informed 
 of a singular instance of self-command and presence of mind connected 
 with this massacre that is deserving orrecord. 
 
 One Gerasimo Sanguinazzo, a native of Ithaca, happening at this 
 time to reside at Santa Maura, and being informed that his brother 
 and cousin, inhabitants of Prevesa, had been included in the num- 
 ber of these victims, collected a considerable sum of money upon 
 his own responsibility and m a swift-rowing vcss< I set out instantly for 
 Prevesa : there throwing himself at the feet of the pasha and offering 
 him his wealth as a random, he piocured a pardon for his relations 
 from the tyrant who was assured in his own mind that they were beyond 
 the reach of human mercy. Nevertheless a bouyourdee was signed 
 for their release, and Gerasimo, whose boat was in readiness, departed 
 with all possible • °ed. Arrived at Salagora, he found, as the pasha 
 had expected, that the work of death was nearly complete; and the 
 ghastly heads of those who had been so dear to him lay weltering 
 with 300 others in a pool of blood : about ten of these unfortunate 
 Prevesans however were still alive, and waiting their doom ; the 
 wrists of the executioner being so much swollen by his exertions that 
 it was with difficulty he could perform his bloody office. With ad- 
 mirable promptitude and presence of mind Gerasimo stept forward, 
 presented his bouyourdee to the officer of the guard, and claimed 
 two of these persons, whom he pointed out, for his brother and his 
 cousin : they were delivered to him on the spot, and carried back in 
 safety to Santa Maura. 
 
 This island, very soon after the capture of Prevesa, was in imminent 
 danger from the designs of Ali : had he once gained possession it would 
 have been extremely difficult for any power to have recovered it from 
 his grasp. It Was saved by one of those singular and surprising inci- 
 dents which are beyond all human calculation. Whilst the fleet of 
 the Russians, who were as dilatory in their movements as Ali was ex- 
 peditious, made a long delay about the islands of Cerigo and Zante, he 
 3 
 
142 ALI'S ATTEMPT ON SANTA MAURA. DEFEATED. 
 
 suddenly appeared upon the strand of Playa, which is opposite the 
 city of Santa Maura, with all his army, and summoned it to an imme- 
 diate surrender; threatening to treat it like Prevesa in case it should 
 provoke his attack. Fear operating with dissensions among the citi- 
 zens induced many of them to promote his wishes, and the French 
 garrison had great difficulty in preventing a revolt. In the mean time 
 Giovanni Vlassopulo, a Greek captain in the Russian service, having 
 been dispatched by Admiral Uczakoff in a swift sailing vessel to 
 arrest the small French garrison upon the isle of Ithaca, accidentally 
 heard the dangers to which Santa Maura was exposed. As soon 
 therefore as he had executed his commission, instead of returning to 
 the fleet, he set sail in a contrary direction, and arrived just in time to 
 intercept Air's flotilla, which had taken about fifty boats full of 
 miserable Prcvesans, who were endeavouring to make their escape to 
 Santa Maura and the other islands. With prompt decision he ran 
 alongside the commandant of the flotilla, threw himself on board 
 dressed in his Russian uniform, and through the medium of an inter- 
 preter, commanded the release of all the boats, and the restoration of 
 their property, under threats of the Russian admiral's displeasure. The 
 commandant, taken by surprise, complied instantly with these orders, 
 and Vlassopulo accompanied the fugitives to a place of safety ; after 
 this he hastened to Santa Maura, and stopped the pasha's operations 
 by a similar manoeuvre, whilst he was engaged in the very act of 
 stipulating with the inhabitants for an unconditional surrender. No 
 failure in his schemes ever annoyed Ali so much as this : he still con- 
 tinues to think, or pretends to think, that he has an undoubted right 
 to the possession of this island, and I know some persons to whom he 
 has declared, that he keeps an agreement signed by its inhabitants for 
 a surrender, next his heart, and that he will keep it there till his dying 
 hour. 
 
 The place to which the pasha turned his views for consolation in his 
 disappointment was Parga, a name, at the very mention of which every 
 
THE CONTINENTAL TOWNS CEDED TO THE PORTE. 143 
 
 Englishman must now feel the blush of shame tingle on his cheek : but 
 of this hereafter. He had written a letter to the primates of this 
 place immediately after the storming of Prevesa, demanding their sub- 
 mission to his authority ; receiving no answer to this he dispatched a 
 second epistle, to which the Parghiotes returned a firm and spirited 
 reply, rejecting his overtures, and despising his threats: they more- 
 over entered into a league, offensive and defensive, with the Suliots, 
 who had by this time seen their folly in trusting to so deceitful an 
 enemy, ever most dangerous when he seems most pacific. In the 
 mean time the islands had all fallen before the combined forces of 
 Russia and Turkey, and Ali, foiled in his attempts upon Parga, car- 
 ried the smaller towns of Gomenitza and Butrinto, at which latter 
 place the French garrison, as it retired, blew up the fort. 
 
 In March 1800, a treaty was concluded between Russia and 
 Turkey, by which the independence of the Ionian republic was gua- 
 ranteed, under protection of the former power, upon payment of an 
 annual tribute of 75,000 piastres to the Ottoman Porte, whilst the 
 continental dependencies were all annexed to the dominions of the 
 Sultan, except Parga, whose citizens, in spite of leagues and treaties, 
 continued to preserve their freedom, in the spirited determination to 
 fall only under the ruins of their citadel. The following are the terms 
 which tended to lighten the yoke of servitude imposed upon the three 
 other cities. 
 
 That the same privileges relating to religious worship, and the ad- 
 ministration of justice, which prevail in Moldavia and Valachia, shall 
 be preserved to them. That no Mahometan shall be allowed to 
 settle or acquire property in them, but it shall be lawful to establish 
 in them a governor, who must absolutely be of the Mahometan reli- 
 gion. That the inhabitants shall have free intercourse with the 
 islands, permission to rebuild their churches, construct new ones, and 
 ring their bells without any interruption. That the Porte shall exact 
 

 144 • THE CONTINENTAL TOWNS CEDED TO THE PORTE. 
 
 a moderate tribute from the rayahs of these places, not exceeding that 
 which was paid to the Venetian republic, and in consideration of the 
 calamities they have suffered, no tribute at all shall be demanded for 
 the two first years after the signature of this convention. 
 
 This destiny at first sight may not appear a very hard one, but in fact 
 it was soon felt otherwise ; for it opened a door, as might have been 
 foreseen, to all the enormities which have since ensued, in the solemn 
 transfer of Christian states to an infidel power that respects neither 
 oaths nor treaties, when made with the professors of a different 
 religious faith. The advantages thus gained by Turkey were strong- 
 ly suspected to have been procured by bribery, and these suspi- 
 cions were not a little strengthened by the dismissal of the Russian 
 envoy from the councils of the emperor, who it is thought would have 
 refused to ratify the treaty had he not been alarmed at the vast prepa- 
 rations making by England at this lime for the expedition against 
 Copenhagen, and perceived that it was his interest to caress the Porte. 
 The old Count Capo d' I stria, chief deputy from the islands to the 
 court of Constantinople, was also believed to have had far too great 
 a share in these disgraceful transactions, and was looked upon with 
 such an evil eye on this account in his native place, that when the 
 rebellion broke out in 1803 at Corfu, his life would have been sacrificed 
 to the popular indignation, and his house burnt to the ground, but for 
 the intercession of the British resident, who saved both. 
 
 Ali was now obliged to withdraw his troops from these continental 
 dependencies; but he conceived a hatred on that account against 
 the Russians, the flame of which has never been extinguished in his 
 bosom: this was not a little augmented by Admiral Uczakoff, who 
 procured the restoration of the pashalic of Delvino to Mustafa its 
 former ruler, from whom it had been lately taken by the Porte and 
 given to Ali. This ambitious chieftain, however, was now gratified 
 by the public thanks of his sovereign for his eminent services, as 
 
ALI COMMENCES A SECOND WAR WITH THE SULIOTS. 145 
 
 well as by a present of the Kelich-Caftan, a fine ermine pelisse, and 
 a sword richly decorated with brilliants; and, to complete his ele- 
 vation, he was made Rumelie-Valisee, or viceroy of Rumelia, an 
 office which confers upon its bearer the high title of Vizir. His re- 
 sidence was now fixed at Monastir, a large city about one day's 
 journey west of the Lake of Ochrida. This unfortunate place he 
 pillaged in the most scandalous manner, not only levying heavy con- 
 tributions upon the inhabitants, but actually carrying away their 
 very implements of household furniture, Avhich he sent to his stores in 
 Ioannina and Tepeleni. Amongst the plunder, as I was informed, 
 were twelve beautiful busts of bronze, eleven of which have been 
 barbarously melted down ; but the twelfth was fortunately rescued, 
 and is now in England. Ali at that time was no connoisseur in the fine 
 arts. 
 
 At the place of his birth he built a fine seraglio, with an immense 
 tower in the garden, wherein he deposited, and still continues to 
 deposit, his wealth, keeping the keys constantly in his own possession. 
 Those treasures, upon which he placed his great reliance for future 
 success, were augmented by the most rigorous and cruel avanias upon 
 every district over which his authority as derven-pasha extended. 
 His extortions were so terrible that if he had held his viceregal office 
 long, it is thought all this part of European Turkey would have risen 
 in open rebellion. 
 
 Upon his return to Ioannina he determined to recommence opera- 
 tions against the Suliots, several of whose chief families had proved 
 accessible to his arts and bribery. Tzavella had been dead some 
 years, but the glory of his race was nobly upheld by young Foto, 
 who, under the guidance and example of his mother, the heroine 
 Mosco, had grown up into the most, perfect palikar that modern 
 Greece could boast, distinguishing himself not more by his signal acts 
 of courage, his success in audacious enterprises, his strength of 
 body improved by temperance and hardships, his Achillean swiftness 
 
 VOL. II. v 
 
146 INTERPRETS THE PROPHECIES OF THE KORAN. 
 
 of foot, his expertness at the mark, and all those other qualities 
 which are so admirable in the eyes of a rude and warlike people, 
 than by his sagacity, acuteness, generosity of disposition, and above 
 all, by his honour and good faith, in which he may put to shame many 
 heroes of more polished nations. 
 
 Ali's resolution to subdue Suli was not a little strengthened by its 
 intimate connexion with Parga and Corfu, affording means to the 
 Russians for sowing dissensions in his states, stirring up a spirit of 
 hostility against his power, and dispersing arms and ammunition 
 amongst his enemies. His principal reliance Avas upon the effect of 
 his bribery and the exertions of the traitor Botzari and his fara, 
 which had been corrupted through his influence. This man had 
 greatly distinguished himself in the former war, and from his age and 
 experience, was looked upon by his countrymen as head of the re- 
 public. But as the terror of the Suliot name was great throughout 
 Albania, and the remembrance of former defeats not yet obliterated 
 from the minds of his people, Ali thought it advisable to interest 
 them, if possible, by some stronger motives than those of conquest or 
 revenge. To this end he convoked an assembly of agas and beys, 
 the chiefs of his allies in the ensuing war, at loannina. There, when 
 they were met together in the castron, he produced the Koran and a 
 venerable sheik, or minister of religion, who undertook to interpret 
 several of its obscure passages as prophetical of the present state of 
 Albania, and indicating their success in the approaching contest : 
 they were exhorted to enter upon it with that enthusiastic zeal which 
 distinguished the first Ottoman conquerors, whilst the rewards of 
 victory and the glories of martyrdom were placed before their eyes in 
 the most glowing colours. 
 
 " Come, then, my agas," said Ali, rising up from his seat, " as 
 many as are true and faithful followers of the Prophet, and wish to 
 preserve both life and property, let us swear a solemn oath, invoking 
 the name of Mahomet, that nothing but death shall divert us from 
 
JOINED BY THE TRAITOR BOTZAR1. 147 
 
 warring upon Suli until that haughty republic fall beneath our arms." 
 The assembly, urged more by fear of the vizir than by faith in his 
 prophecies, bowed the head in token of compliance, and took the oath 
 which he required. 
 
 Ali now lost no time in collecting together his troops to the number 
 of about 18,000 men : having taken care to spread abroad various re- 
 ports, first that he intended to lead them against Corfu, next against the 
 French in Egypt, and lastly against Santa Maura, he marched on a 
 sudden against Suli, took and plundered several of its external depen- 
 dencies, and occupied every pass leading to its mountain holds. The 
 people were taken in a great measure unprepared, having been de- 
 ceived by the artifices of Botzari, who had for some time studiously 
 kept his fellow-citizens in ignorance of Ali's views, converting the 
 revenues of the republic to the use of himself and his friends, and 
 neglecting to purchase stores and ammunition with the money he re- 
 ceived for that purpose from Russia : now on the appearance of the 
 enemy at the foot of the mountain this traitor deserted with all the men 
 of his fara to the Albanian camp. He was joyfully received by Ali, 
 whom he buoyed up with hopes that Suli would surrender on the first 
 attack, deprived as it was of a leader, and unprovided with all the 
 means of defence. The event however proved how little this base 
 traitor and his employer knew what an unconquerable spirit of liberty 
 is able to effect. The rest of the Suliots, though deserted, did not 
 despair. They convoked a council of their captains ; they animated 
 each other by the heroic deeds of their ancestors, whose valour had so 
 often been invincible ; and they determined, that as they had hitherto 
 existed in freedom, they would endure every extremity before they sub- 
 mitted to the yoke. 
 
 The principal leaders named in this war were Foto Tzavella, *Dimo 
 Zerva, Diamante Zerva, Giovanni Zerva, Dimo Draco, Cuzzonica, 
 
 * Dimo is a diminutive from Demetrio. 
 
 u 2 
 
148 BAD SUCCESS IN SEVERAL ENGAGEMENTS. 
 
 Giorgio Calespera, Chitzo Pandasi, Giannachi Sefo, Anastasio Cascan, 
 and some others, besides the amazon Mosco, and Samuel a caloyer or 
 monk, a man of wild enthusiastic character, who ran about animating 
 the citizens with a Bible in one hand and a sword in the other, cut- 
 ting off heads and explaining texts or prophecies^ but whose courage 
 and patriotism were more conspicuous than his prudence and discre- 
 tion. The number of Suliots enrolled for the defence of their country 
 never exceeded at any time three thousand men. 
 
 The army of the vizir marched from the district of Luro along the 
 Ionian shore, and some skirmishing took place in the region of ancient 
 Acherusia. The Suliots retreated before superior numbers, and the 
 Albanians, setting up the yell of war, endeavoured in the pursuit to 
 penetrate the great Acherontian chasm of Glyky. Here however they 
 met with a most determined resistance ; the Suliots overwhelmed their 
 advance with huge stones from the overhanging precipices, and thousands 
 of unerring musket balls issued from behind rocks which screened the 
 marksmen from the view of their enemy. Whilst the contest on this side 
 was hottest, a large body of 3000 Albanian troops under the selictar or 
 sword-bearer of the vizir, endeavoured to pour down upon the rear of 
 the Suliots from the mountain Bogoritza, where they had lain in am- 
 buscade. These were met by Foto Tzavella with about 200 of his 
 bravest palikars and put to rout with great slaughter. The vizir then 
 gave orders for a retreat, after having lost about 500 of his men, whilst 
 the whole loss of his enemies did not exceed twenty*. In his disap- 
 pointment he ordered Captain Botzari to be brought into his presence, 
 reproached him with bringing false intelligence and raising delusive 
 hopes, and in the end commanded him to give a proof of sincerity and de- 
 votion to the cause by heading his party of traitors against their valiant 
 
 * It is scarcely possible to conceive how the loss on each side could be so disproportionate, nor did I 
 believe it myself until I saw the scenes of action, where numbers must have created confusion instead 
 of being advantage, aud where the party attacked had such a superiority from its power of conceal- 
 ment. 
 
BAD SUCCESS IN SEVERAL ENGAGEMENTS. 149 
 
 countrymen. Botzari, whose life or death depended upon the nod of 
 Ali, dare not refuse, although, as it easily may be supposed, he had 
 but little heart for the service. Being well acquainted with all the 
 passes of his native hills he led his band over the great summit called 
 Raithovuni*, with the intent of falling upon Kiaffa and Kako-Suli by 
 surprise, whilst the troops of the vizir advanced to create a diversion 
 and draw off the attention of the enemy. The enterprise however 
 entirely failed: the Suliots were apprized of his approach, and whilst 
 the main body of their forces kept Ali irom penetrating the ravines, 
 a small division met the traitors in their descent, put the greatest part of 
 them to the sword, and drove the rest, with their infamous captain, 
 fairly off their territories. This wretch died, as it is said, of grief and 
 disappointment about five months after his defeat, an object of scorn 
 and detestation to all parties, though some report that he hastened his 
 own end by poison. Many skirmishes ensued after this affair, in which 
 the Suliots were invariably successful, and the vizir suffered such losses 
 in his army that he almost despaired of the event. 
 
 In the mean time the ancient spirit of Corcyrean sedition began to 
 manifest itself in Corfu, the Russian and Ottoman interests were found 
 to be totally at variance, and Ali did all in his power to promote and 
 take advantage of this jealousy : he persuaded the Porte how necessary 
 was the extension and consolidation of his own power in Epirus, to 
 counteract the influence of the Russians in the islands, and prevent them 
 from fomenting dissensions amongst the minor states. Hence he pro- 
 cured a firman from his government ordering Hassan Bey of Margariti, 
 Pronio Aga of Paramithia, and several other independent chiefs, to assist 
 him in his conquests ; whereas it was their interest, as it was the secret 
 wish of their hearts, to have leagued together for his annihilation. 
 
 Two of these agas, Pronio of Paramithia and Mahmout Daliani of 
 Konispoli, were obliged to lead 1500 men in a grand attack which Ali 
 now meditated. The vizir himself encamped at Lippa near the sources 
 
 * See the plate representing the mountains of Suli, and the exit of the Acheron, 
 
]50 BAD SUCCESS IN SEVERAL ENGAGEMENTS. 
 
 of the Acheron, sending about halt" his army to Cestnuii (the ancient 
 district of Cestrine) under his favourite general named Mustafa Ziguri. 
 Against these forces the gallant Foto Tzavella inarched with a 
 body of Suliots, few indeed in number but all animated with pa- 
 triotic ardour and burning for revenge upon their invaders. Hav- 
 ing advanced within a short distance from the vanguard of the 
 Albanians they laid an ambuscade, which they managed very adroitly 
 from their perfect knowledge of the country, and then sent forward 
 a few of their swiftest palikars to insult and provoke the enemy: this 
 conduct had the effect desired ; the Albanians, irritated by their taunts, 
 ran swiftly after them, fell into the ambuscade and perished without 
 having seen their enemies. The report of musketry reaching the ears 
 of Ziguri, he hastened to the encounter, and as he approached the am- 
 buscade waving his sword and encouraging his men, a shot from the 
 musket of Tzavella pierced his heart and he fell dead upon the spot. 
 An incident of this kind is very apt to strike with consternation the 
 troops of a semi-barbarous people : a sudden panic spread itself from 
 rank to rank, when a general volley from the Suliots and a fearful shout 
 raised as a prelude to victory, put them all to flight and occasioned a 
 loss in killed and prisoners that far exceeded in numbers the sum total 
 of their antagonists. 
 
 The vizir indignant at this defeat upbraided his troops with pusilla- 
 nimity and ordered a general attack on the morrow, that they might have 
 an opportunity of wiping away their disgrace. The Suliots however 
 were apprized of his design by their secret friend Pronio of Paramithia, 
 and were advised by him, if they wished to escape the danger, that they 
 should muster all their forces and boldly meet the foe already dispirited 
 by his late disasters. The republic followed this judicious counsel, 
 and placed the flower of their army under the command of its two 
 best captains, Tzavella and Dimo Draco. These excellent and expe- 
 rienced officers led their forces through the defiles of the Cassopaean 
 mountains, and came right upon the line of the enemy in his advance: 
 at this moment a tremendous shower of hail poured down, which was 
 
TURNS THE ASSAULT INTO A BLOCKADE. 151 
 
 driven by the Avind into the faces of the Albanians. The Suliots 
 taking advantage of the moment, descended with terrific shouts upon 
 their assailants, who scarcely stood the shock, but throwing away their 
 arms, fled with precipitation over the mountains, where great num- 
 bers fell into the hands of their pursuers ; the main body rested not 
 till it arrived, after immense loss, at the corps of reserve under Ali at 
 Lippa. 
 
 The vizir, now totally dispirited, and despairing to conquer Suli by 
 assault, determined to alter his manner of warfare, and proceed ac- 
 cording to the method of blockade. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Ali turns the Siege of Suli into a Blockade — Brave Action of the Suiiots, 
 in which Foto Tzavella is wounded — Stratagem of the Suiiots — 
 Treachery of Ali — Letter of the Suiiots — Proposal of Ali to purchase 
 Suli — Answer of the Suiiots — Attempt made to bribe Dimo Zerva, but 
 fails — Distress of the Suiiots — Assistance sent by the French — Effects 
 of Famine — Supplies gained by a desperate Effort — Two Suliot Captains 
 yield to the Vizir s Bribes — One of them, repents — Stratagem of Stri- 
 vinioti — Confederacy of the Tzamouriot Beys against AH — How 
 dissolved — Ali joins the Army of the Grand Vizir against Paswan 
 Oglou — Endeavours to impose upon the Suiiots at his Return — Per- 
 suades them to banish Foto Tzavella — Foto goes to Ioannina — Thrown 
 into Prison there — Attack of the Fortress of Villa by the Suiiots— The 
 Vizir, indignant at their Valour, collects a vast Army under the Com- 
 mand of his Son Vely — Kiaffa taken — Foto Tzavella being released, 
 returns to his Country — Lust Action of the Sidiots — Kako-Suli stir- 
 renders — People emigrate — Treacherous Conduct of the Albanians — 
 Suiiots attacked— Affair of Zulongo — Desperate Revenge of Samuel 
 the Caloyer — Suiiots again attacked — Affair of Rhiniasa — Action at 
 Vurgareli — Emigration of the Suiiots — Song of Suli— Story of the 
 Traitor Palasca — Ali's Quarrel with the Beys of Tzamouria — Suiiots 
 return from Corfu, in hopes of recovering their Mountains — III treated, 
 and regain the Islands — Enter the Russian Service — Ali alarmed at 
 the Progress of the French Arms in Dalmatia — Recovers the goodwill 
 of Bonaparte — French Consul established in Albania — Ali gains 
 Pashalics for his two Sons by the Interest of Sebastiani — Rupture 
 between Turkey and Russia — Ali rcoccupies the Continental Depend- 
 
ALI TURNS THE SIEGE OF SULI INTO A BLOCKADE. 1.53 
 
 encies of the Seven Islands — Ruins Prevesa — Receives Artillery-men 
 and Stores from his French Allies — -Colonel Vaudoncourt is sent to Ali 
 — -His Opinion of the Vizir — Fortifies Prevesa — Joint Insurrection of 
 Tzamouria, Delvino, and Berat against Ali — Reduced by him — Admiral 
 Duckworth's Expedition against Constantinople. 
 
 AGREEABLY to the determination of Ali, alluded to in the pre- 
 ceding chapter, he divided his army into five columns, with which he 
 occupied the entrances of the principal defiles leading into the 
 recesses of the Suliot mountains, throwing up, in the course of one night, 
 sixty-four small towers, which were soon afterwards replaced by a 
 smaller number of redoubts or forts, capable of containing from 200 
 to 400 men. The leaders of the republic were of course necessitated 
 to adopt similar measures of defence ; they therefore divided their 
 army into five separate battalions to oppose the enemy, and attached 
 to each a troop of female warriors, who provided them with food, 
 relieved tbem frequently from the duty of sentinels, and on occasions 
 of attack supplied them with ammunition, or even mingled in the 
 contest. As soon as the forts were constructed, a general assault was 
 made by the vizir's troops, who again suffered a total defeat, and were 
 saved from destruction only by the protection of their new fortifica- 
 tions. Nothing but the oath taken by the beys, previous to the com- 
 mencement of this war, could have kept them firm in their allegiance. 
 In the mean time a fresh firman was obtained from the Porte, and 
 amongst other beys and pashas who were required to furnish con- 
 tingents, even Ibrahim Pasha of Berat was obliged to dispatch 2000 
 men to the assistance of his bitterest enemy and rival : so completely 
 was the Divan deluded by the craft and cunning of this extraordinary 
 man ! 
 
 To these soldiers of Berat, who are very warlike in their nature, a se- 
 parate station was assigned at their own request, to give them an oppor- 
 tunity of distinguishing their superior prowess. This station lay oppo- 
 
 vol. n. x 
 
154 STRATAGEM OF THE SULIOTS. 
 
 site to one of the advanced guai-ds of the republic, which occupied a hill 
 called Curilla. Of this hill the Beratians determined to dispossess the 
 Suliots, and prepared themselves for a fierce attack : timely intelli- 
 gence of these motions being sent to Foto Tzavella, he hastened with a 
 select corps to the relief of his friends, when, after three hours hard 
 fighting, he succeeded in driving the assailants down the heights. In 
 the eagerness of pursuit this young Achilles far outstripped his com- 
 panions, which being observed by one of the fugitives who was in 
 danger of being overtaken and cut down, he slunk unperceived behind 
 a rock, fired off his musket with deliberate aim, and Foto fell : the 
 man then ran after his companions, who, elated by this event, rallied, 
 and turned their faces again to the enemy, when a fierce conflict ensued 
 over the body of the fallen chief, like that which the poet has described 
 over the corpse of Patroclus: not a musket was now fired, but each 
 party fought desperately with their sharp Albanian sabres. Foto 
 being only wounded, and not dead, earnestly entreated his compa- 
 nions to sever his head from his body, to prevent the possibility of his 
 being carried alive to the pasha; but his gallant comrades replied, 
 that they would carry him back in triumph to his friends; and in this, 
 after the most prodigious efforts, they finally succeeded. Immediately 
 on the fall of Tzavella, a soldier ran off to convey the welcome tidings 
 of his death to the pasha, who rewarded him with a hundred sequins 
 upon the spot, and promised him four hundred more if his news should 
 prove correct. 
 
 Soon after this occurrence, and whilst Foto's wound was cured, an 
 ingenious stratagem was played off upon a large body of the new 
 levies, by a Suliot whose name is not recorded. Hearing that they 
 were on their march to join the main army, he concerted measures 
 with his countrymen, and then throwing himself as if by accident into 
 their way, suffered himself to be made prisoner : presently, as they 
 advanced on their route, a sharp firing was heard on a mountain at a 
 little distance, and the Suliot being questioned as to the cause, an- 
 
 3 
 
TREACHERY OF ALL 
 
 155 
 
 swered, that a party of the vizir's troops were engaged with those of 
 the republic, and advised them strongly, if they wished to shew their 
 zeal, and gain great honour and rewards from their commander, to run 
 instantly to the assistance of their allies. The infatuated Albanians 
 take his advice, and ascend the hill ; in the hurry of this manoeuvre 
 their insidious adviser steals aAvay ; they soon find themselves placed 
 between two fires, lose half their men in killed and wounded, and 
 almost all the rest in prisoners. 
 
 This affair terminated for a short time all active contests between the 
 parties. Ali, despairing to subdue such valiant and determined ene- 
 mies in open warfare, turned the siege into a blockade, during the 
 delay of which he hoped that famine and treachery might effect what 
 he was unable to do by force of arms. The Suliots however, ac- 
 quainted with various mountain passes unknown to him, found means 
 to procure food, and in the dark nights they sallied out in parties of 
 fifty or sixty, falling upon the surrounding villages, from whence they 
 carried off corn and cattle, even pillaging the very camps of their 
 enemies, who dared not leave their entrenchments in the darkness for 
 fear of ambuscade. The vizir at length, tired of so protracted a 
 contest, proposed a truce, and demanded twenty-four hostages as a 
 security against the violation of his territory. Strong necessity urged 
 the Suliots to accept his terms, and the hostages were delivered up. 
 Then the deceitful Ali threw off the mask, imprisoned these unfortu- 
 nates, and threatened them with death by torture, unless the republic 
 should surrender unconditionally. To his perfidious proposals the 
 following answer was returned. 
 
 " Bf£ip 'AXij Ilaffd at xaipcTupcv. 
 " Mt r»s cutiVhc rpoirus 07r» fipctjai, Hey Kcifivrje ix\\o, irapd va oXiyortvrie ti)v v7roKr)^/ly an, xiu vtt 
 dv£,dvr)s Tr\v \liKr\v fiug oicXijpoKapSiav kvavriov an' "lfcvpeoTi ox« i^o/itv tcKacirrit $vaia$ rrjc irarpiioe, 
 at yivuv fit dvTuc; aapavnuvaQ Sid irepioaoTzpav iv$vfxri<riv Sri 17 7rarpic Bid dvrds rdc Jvffiac Ztv ?ra- 
 paSiSorac 6$ev tic to i^fje dyinrrtv nXiov Siv e\o/jev, art tt)v SiXo/xtv jjiatyau' twiili) \iaai awisos (card 
 ■xavTO. Ka3w£ xdi wavTOTt." 
 
 x 2 
 
156 LETTER OF THE 8ULIOTS. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " Vizir Ali Pasha, we greet you. 
 " By such treacherous conduct you do nothing else but sully your 
 own reputation and increase our determined resistance against you. 
 Know this, that we have already lost seventeen victims sacrificed in 
 their country's cause; let these other twenty-four then be added to the 
 number: their memory will live in the breasts of their fellow-citizens. 
 But the republic will not on their account surrender itself. Hence- 
 forward we neither desire, nor will we entertain any friendship with 
 you; since in all transactions, and on every occasion, you are a vio- 
 lator of good faith." 
 
 This infamous behaviour of Ali so exasperated the Suliots that they 
 prohibited all correspondence with him and threw his letters unopened 
 into the fire. The hostages in the mean time were sent to Toannina, 
 Avhere, as it was a custom with the Suliots never to deliver up their 
 arms, and no one was found daring enough to demand them, a stra- 
 tagem was devised for this purpose. Being all sent to the island in 
 the lake, the hegumenos or prior of a convent there invited them to 
 attend divine service on occasion of a solemn festival : his proposal 
 was unwarily accepted by the Suliots who, according to custom, de- 
 posited their weapons in the church-porch under the pledged faith of 
 the hegumenos : one man, however, named Fotomara, retained his 
 arms, and in reply to the remonstrances of the monk observed, 
 " Whilst my country is at war, caloyer, I lay not down my arms, 
 nor do I commit impiety, in my opinion, by entering armed into the 
 temple of God under such circumstances." 
 
 At their egress out of church they found their arms conveyed away 
 and a party of Albanian soldiers ready to seize and bind them : the 
 
PROPOSAL OF ALI TO PURCHASE SULI. 157 
 
 commander then approached Fotomara, and desired him to surrender 
 his weapons. The gallant youth made a motion as if he would have 
 shot the person who made this request, but in a moment the probable 
 fate of his companions flashed across his mind : he restrained himself, 
 and thus calmly replied : " The worthless coward lays down his arms 
 to preserve an ignoble life, the palikar in death alone : see then how a 
 Suliot lays down his arms." At these words he turned the pistol to his 
 own breast and fell shot through the heart. His companions were all 
 kept in close confinement, distributed amongst the different convents of 
 the island. 
 
 In the mean time Ibrahim Pasha, disgusted not more at the want of 
 success than of good faith which marked Ali's conduct, withdrew from 
 the confederacy and secretly supplied the Suliots with stores and am- 
 munition : but the conduct of Pronio Aga of Paramithia, who en- 
 deavoured secretly to befriend the republic, being disclosed to the 
 vizir, he demanded and obtained the son of that chieftain as an 
 hostage for his future behaviour. During a cessation of hostilities he 
 dispatched his selictar aga, accompanied by Kitzio Botzari, a brother 
 of the late traitor, to Suli, with proposals for the surrender of their 
 mountain citadels for the sum of 2000 purses, with permission to 
 settle in any part of his dominions free from all taxes and contribu- 
 tions. The Suliots, being so often forewarned, easily penetrated into 
 his intentions and returned the following spirited reply : 
 
 " Btii'p AXij n«(7a ai. \atpeTBfitv 
 " 'H TLuTpit flag eivai dirtiputg y\vKv-ipa /cat airo ra aerxpa an, icat aVo r»e ivrvvcK Tome, btra 
 'vKoa\t<Tai yet fx&Q Bwtjijt;' o&ev juartuwc roxiufeif, tiru$>) i; IXivSepia jjiuq Siv iroikiirai, art dyopa£trat 
 ir^ccvv fit SXne tuq 5>;<7avp«c rijg yijg, Trapd fit to ilifia Kctt Savarov itiiQ ruv v^epov 2*Ai<ir>)v." 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " Vizir Ali Pasha, we greet you. 
 " Our country is infinitely more dear to us than your wealth, or 
 
158 ANSWER OF THE SULIOTS. 
 
 the fine territory which you promise to bestow upon us. You labour 
 therefore in vain. Liberty is not to be bought by all the treasures of 
 the earth. We will fight till there exists not a Suliot to defend his 
 country." 
 
 After the failure of these public proposals, Ali turned all his 
 thoughts to excite individual treachery within this brave republic. 
 Accordingly he dispatched a letter secretly to the valiant Captain 
 Dimo Zerva, promising him 800 purses, with all the honours he could 
 desire, if he would betray the republic. Zerva immediately convened 
 the chiefs, read the letter in their presence, and returned the following 
 answer on the spot. 
 
 " I thank you, vizir, for the kind regard you express towards me, 
 but I beseech you not to send the purses, for I should not know how 
 to count them ; and if I did, believe me that one single pebble be- 
 longing to my country, much less that country itself, would in my 
 eyes appear too great a return for them. Equally vain are the 
 honours you offer to bestow upon me. The honours of a Suliot lie in 
 his arms. With these I hope to immortalize my name and preserve 
 my country/' 
 
 Ali, fertile in expedients, now tried the effect of hierarchical inter- 
 position, and a long correspondence took place between the Arch- 
 bishop of Ioannina and the Bishop of Paramithia, in wtiose diocese Suli 
 is situated. This was carried on by means of an infamous monk, called, 
 
ASSISTANCE SENT TO THEM BY THE FRENCH. 159 
 
 for his wicked character, Kako-Joseph (KaxoiWap) : but the good bishop, 
 who deservedly bore the appellation of Chrysanthes, steadily rebutted 
 all attempts to corrupt his principles: he was afterwards obliged, 
 through fear of his lite, to escape and fly to Parga. Ali's troops now 
 bewail to desert : he had lost, it is said, near 4000 in the last nine 
 months of the war, whilst only twenty-five Suliots had perished*. 
 These latter however became greatly distressed for want of provi- 
 sions, being closely blockaded by the besieging army and deprived of 
 all their external dependencies: yet never at any period did the flame 
 of liberty burn more brightly in their bosoms, nor did they ever make 
 greater sacrifices for the love of their country. Contriving to send off 
 their useless mouths to Parga and the Ionian islands, they distributed 
 their provisions to the different captains of the republic in proportion 
 to their number of followers. 
 
 About this tune they received a quantity of arms and other stores 
 from Bonaparte, by the French brig of war, the Arab, which landed 
 them at Porto Panari, from whence they were secretly conveyed to 
 Suli. This circumstance however proved rather a misfortune than a 
 benefit, since it produced a jealousy of their cause in the minds both 
 of the Russians and the English, who might otherwise have assisted 
 them in their desperate emergency. 
 
 Alter a year's siege their condition became so lamentable that they 
 were obliged to live upon acorns, herbs, and roots, and to grind and 
 mix up the bark of trees with a very scanty proportion of meal ; yet 
 under all these calamities their enemies could gain no advantage over 
 them when they came to engage in conflict. In their extreme distress 
 
 * I take some of these relations from the work of a Parghiote, published in Venice A. D. 1815, 
 upon the wars of Suli. I hive altricd many irom more accurate information: indeed the writer, 
 though he gives the chief events ot the war, seems very igiora>it of motives and political causes; 
 and I cannot help suspecting that in many other instances besides the one referred to in the text, he 
 errs greatly in the number of Suiiots who tell in different encounters with the pasha's troops. In spite 
 of all advantages of situation or superiority of courage, the difference could not.be so great. 
 
1G0 SUPPLIES GAINED BY A DESPERATE EFFORT. 
 
 the following is one of the manoeuvres which they executed to obtain 
 supplies. 
 
 Four hundred of their bravest palikars, with 170 female heroines, 
 headed by Mosco, sallied out by night, escaped under cover of the 
 darkness through the defile of Glyky, and arrived in safety at Parga. 
 There they were joyfully received by the compassionate inhabitants, 
 fed for the space of four days, and on the fifth dismissed with as much 
 provision as they could carry for their famished countrymen. One 
 hundred of this troop, with lighter burdens, marched as an adva 
 guard, to protect the convoy ; next came the women in the centre, and 
 then the rest of the men, each carrying as much as he could possibly 
 support. The Albanians, to the number of more than a thousand, 
 endeavoured to intercept their return, but either through fear of the 
 men, or from that respect towards the women which is carried in liiis 
 country to such an excess that the soldiers sometimes fire from behind 
 them without fear of a return, they refrained from attacking the 
 party ; its arrival was most welcome to the Suliots, reduced as they 
 were almost to skeletons, through famine : yet even in this extremity 
 their constant cry was liberty or death. 
 
 In the mean time the vizir was constantly at head quarters with the 
 army, except when his presence was required in his capital ; nor did 
 he omit any of those allurements and seductive arts which he so well 
 knows how to apply, for bringing over some of the Suliot captains to 
 his interests. Among these, two only were found capable of listening 
 to his promises and of preferring the favour and money of a tyrant to 
 a sense of honour and patriotic devotion. These two, viz. Cuzzonica 
 and Diamante Zcrva, held frequent interviews with the common 
 enemy, and carried messages and proposals from him to the council of 
 the republic : these were all indignantly repelled by the strenuous exer- 
 tions of Foto Tzavella and Dimo Draco, or by the patriotic exhorta- 
 tions of Samuel the caloyer, to whom the Suliots paid the highest re- 
 verence. These brave captains took a solemn oath, in which they 
 
STRATAGEM OP STRIVINIOTI. \6l 
 
 invited many of the citizens to join, that they would war with the 
 tyrant till victory or death should release them — they dared all dangers 
 in defence of their country — they animated the brave — they encou- 
 raged the timid — and by their experience, sagacity, and courage, 
 fully justified the implicit confidence reposed in them by their coun- 
 trymen. 
 
 In the mean time Diamante Zerva repented of his conduct, and 
 broke off all connexion with the enemy : he endeavoured to persuade 
 the Suliots that his motives for engaging in it, were to gain money for 
 the public service, and to procure the release of their hostages from 
 Ioannina. Notwithstanding this he was never able to regain the 
 confidence or good opinion of his fellow-citizens. The worst horrors 
 of famine now began to appear again at Suli : but the misery of 
 the people made them ingenious, and many stratagems were exe- 
 cuted for procuring food even from their besiegers. Amongst these, 
 the contrivance of one Gianni Strivinioti is particularly recorded. 
 This man having received intelligence that the Turks had lately 
 procured a large supply of cattle from the neighbouring pastures, 
 dressed himself in his white capote and camise, and concealing 
 himself till the shades of evening had descended, walked out on all 
 fours from his lurking place, and mingling with the herds, enter- 
 ed together with them into the stalls when they were shut up. 
 In the dead of night he arose silently, opened the doors, unloosed 
 the oxen, and drove them towards a party of his friends, who were 
 in waiting to receive them. The Albanians heard the noise, but 
 were so alarmed by suspicion of an ambuscade, that they lay still, and 
 preferred the loss of their cattle to the danger of their lives. At an- 
 other time some troops of the vizir took an ass belonging to the Suliots, 
 which had strayed near their camp. At the earnest request of the 
 latter by a flag of truce, it was restored under promise of an equiva- 
 lent, when one of their Mahometan prisoners of the highest rank was 
 in consequence released, with an intimation, that if the exchange were 
 
 VOL. II. Y 
 
162 CONFEDERACY OP THE BEYS AGAINST ALL 
 
 not thought equal, the Suliots were ready to make more ample com- 
 pensation. When the vizir, enraged at their obstinate defence, offered, 
 by proclamation, a reward of fifty piastres for ever} r head of a Suliot, 
 they in return, by a counter proclamation, made light of this reward, 
 and proposed ten charges of gunpowder to every citizen who should 
 bring in the skull of an enemy. 
 
 About this time a bright speck appeared in the midst of that 
 political gloom which hung over the crags of Suli. The ambi- 
 tious and exterminating designs of Ali became apparent to many 
 other states, and they hastened to form an alliance, offensive and 
 defensive, with this intrepid republic. Amongst these new allies were 
 numbered Ibrahim Pasha of Bcrat, Mustafa of Delvino, Pronio Aga 
 of Paramithia, Mahmout an independent bey of Tzamouria, and 
 Daliani Ag& of Konispoli ; and thus the whole coast, from Avlona 
 to Suli, was now engaged in arms against the tyrant. Against this 
 torrent he opposed the invincible force of gold: by vast largesses, 
 distributed among the independent beys, he soon excited a civil war 
 in the states of Ibrahim, and drew him into his own dominions : by 
 opening a secret communication with its governor, he introduced a 
 large body of troops into the fortress of Delvino, carried off some 
 Suliot hostages from thence, and obliged Mustafa to make a separate 
 peace. The other allies however continued true to their engagements. 
 The Suliots, in order that the zeal of these might not have time to cool, 
 planned an immediate attack, in concert, upon the Albanian out- 
 posts : in the execution of this they partially succeeded, taking a 
 considerable number of prisoners, whom they disarmed and released, 
 telling them to go home, provide fresh weapons, and then return, for 
 that the Suliots still wanted arms. Soon after this attack Ali sent a 
 large force against Paramithia, which would probably have succeeded, 
 had not Tzavella and Dimo Draco poured down with their troops like 
 a mountain torrent upon the invading enemy, whom they totally de- 
 feated, and liberated their ally from his dangerous situation. Ali, in 
 
HE PERSUADES THE SULIOTS TO BANISH FOTO TZAVELLA. 163 
 
 revenge, cut off the heads of all the Suliot hostages which he had taken 
 at Delvino, except two, the brother of Tzavella, and the son of Draco, 
 hoping, by this reservation, to bring the characters of these chieftains 
 into suspicion amongst their countrymen. In this however he failed. 
 They called together the people, and after a most animated harangue, 
 in which they declared that they considered these dear relatives as 
 victims sacrificed upon the altar of their country, they persuaded the 
 Suliots to arm and follow them against the foe, where, by a terrible 
 slaughter, they took ample revenge for the innocent blood which had 
 been shed. Whilst Ali was preparing a blow of retaliation for this 
 disgrace, he suddenly received orders from the Porte to lead his con- 
 tingent to the army of the grand vizir, which lay before Adrianople, 
 against the rebel Paswan Oglou. These orders he did not think fit to 
 disobey. During his absence the Suliots laid in stores of provisions 
 and arms, and by the advice of Samuel, greatly enlarged the strong 
 fort of Agia Paraskevi, upon the hill of Kunghi. 
 
 Ali, at his return, began his usual arts of negotiation, endea- 
 vouring to impose upon the Suliots with a false and treacherous pro- 
 posal of peace, under condition of their allowing him to build and 
 garrison one tower in their district, and banishing from their territories 
 the brave Eoto Tzavella, as the chief impediment in the way of tran- 
 quillity. 
 
 His ambassadors on this occasion were Kitzo Botzari and Cuzzo- 
 nica, who, by dint of threats and promises, hopes and fears, prevailed 
 upon the republic to request the secession of their bravest captain 
 from those mountains of which his valour was the noblest ornament. 
 
 Foto, like an ancient Roman in the early times of the republic, ad- 
 dressed the assembly on this occasion in a speech full of dignity, as 
 well as of compassion for his deluded countrymen; he exhorted them 
 to beware of their inveterate enemy's insidious designs, but disdained 
 to plead in behalf of himself. Alter the council had broken up, he 
 proceeded to his dwelling, and taking a torch in his hand, he set fire 
 
 y 2 
 
164 FOTO GOES TO IOANNINA, AND IS IMPRISONED THERE. 
 
 to the roof, and waited till it was burnt to the ground; declaring, that 
 no enemy of Suli should ever cross the threshold of the Tzavellas : he 
 then buried his sword, and taking an affectionate leave of his friends 
 and family, bid adieu to the mountains which his valour had so long 
 defended, and left his countrymen much in the same state as the silly 
 sheep who were persuaded by the wolves to dismiss their guardians. 
 
 The vizir now set every engine to work that might bring Foto into 
 his power, and the reader will be able to form some idea of the artifice 
 and cunning of this man when he learns that success attended his en- 
 deavours. Tzavella however did not proceed to Ioannina before he 
 had made the' offer of returning to his country, upon condition that 
 certain traitors, whom he named, were banished : this being negatived, 
 he went to the desired conference upon the most solemn protestations 
 of Ali's good faith : he soon however found upon what a frail founda- 
 tion he had built his hopes, for when he refused to enter into the 
 tyrant's views of enslaving his country, he was thrown, in spite of faith 
 and promises, into prison. 
 
 May 12th, 1803. — About this time the Suliots, having received some 
 supplies, made their last attempt against their besiegers. The most im- 
 portant post occupied by the Albanians was that of Villa, where 
 they had built a large square fortress with a strong tower at each 
 angle, and a lofty central one in the area, which served as the princi- 
 pal magazine for the vizir's army. This fortress it was determined to 
 attack, and 200 picked men set out upon the expedition in a very dark 
 and windy night. Having made their approaches unperceived by the 
 enemy, one of them, named Metococcales, took a spade and pick-axe, 
 with which he worked patiently and perseveringly until he had exca- 
 vated a large hole under the foundation of a corner tower. In this he 
 deposited a barrel of gunpowder, lighted a slow fusee, and returned to 
 his companions who had concealed themselves behind a rock. They 
 then set up a tremendous shout which brought the garrison quickly to 
 the suspected place of attack, where they had scarcely arrived before 
 
ALI COLLECTS A VAST ARMY. Jg5 
 
 an explosion took place which buried them beneath the ruins of the 
 angle. The Suliots then rushed like a torrent through the breach and 
 gained possession of the great central tower ; this they emptied of all 
 its stores, which they delivered to their women and children, who ar- 
 rived in great numbers, and the whole time till the dawn of day was 
 occupied in their removal. That part of the garrison which escaped the 
 effects of the explosion had retreated into the three remaining angular 
 towers which they strongly barricadoed. In the morning they were 
 summoned to surrender, and required in token of submission to cast 
 down their arms at the foot of each tower. This the Albanians pre- 
 tended to do, but when the Suliots came to pick them up, they were 
 fired upon by a reserve and great numbers killed. This want of faith 
 so enraged them that they sent for a large reinforcement of their coun- 
 trymen, upon whose arrival they applied a vast heap of pitch and 
 other combustibles to the entrances of the towers and burned alive or 
 suffocated these perfidious enemies. 
 
 This however was the last action of any consequence that they per- 
 formed and the evil star of Suli now began to predominate. The vizir 
 in the fury of his indignation sent forth proclamations calling upon 
 every Mahometan throughout his dominions and amongst his allies, in 
 the name of their great prophet, to avenge this slaughter upon the heads 
 of the Suliots. Having by these means collected a large army, he 
 placed it under the command of his son Vely, who encamped in the 
 neighbourhood of Glyky. Besides these, 5000 troops were stationed 
 under two distinguished captains named Mezzo Bonno and Agho 
 Mordari, at Villa; 4o00 at Zabruco under Hassan Zapari and Ibrahim 
 D( mi ; 3000 at Syritziana under Bekir Giogadorus, and 4000 at 
 Tzecurati under Usuff Aga surnamed 'The Arab.' 
 
 Even against this overwhelming force the Suliots did not despair, 
 but engaged bravely in conflict both day and night, and by the most 
 daring stratagems and surprises reduced their enemies to such a pitch 
 of despair that they began to consider them as invincible and to desert 
 3 
 
166 KIAFFA TAKEN -FOTO RETURNS TO SULI. 
 
 in considerable numbers. At last however Kitzio Botzari by large 
 bribes and larger promises prevailed upon Cuzzonica and one Pylio 
 Gusi to betray their native mountains. Just before this time the vizir 
 had liberated Foto Tzavella upon condition of sending his wife and 
 children to Ioannina as hostages and settling himself with the rest of 
 his family, either at Pargaor one of the Ionian islands. In the month 
 of September, 1803, this gallant chieftain came to Suli for the last 
 time : assembling the council of the republic in Kiaffa he gave them all 
 the information possible respecting the state of affairs, exhorted them 
 to defend their liberties unto death, and advised them to send away all 
 useless hands under plea of his relationship and the security of his con- 
 duct. The Suliots followed his advice, and Foto led these unhappy exiles 
 to Parga, from whence they embarked for Corfu. In the mean time 
 Cuzzonica and Gusi having had several conferences with Vely Pasha at 
 Glyky, and engaged the whole fara of the Zervas to act as their base ac- 
 complices, led a body of 200 Albanians through some secret passes of 
 the mountains and concealed them in the houses of the conspirators. 
 Next day Vely made a general attack and the Suliots while they were 
 engaged in the defiies were assaulted in the rear and dispersed ; great 
 numbers were killed and the rest either retreated into Kako-Suli or shut 
 themselves up with Samuel in the tower of Kunghi, whilst Kiaffa itself 
 fell into the hands of the enemy. News of this unfortunate event reaching 
 the ears of Foto Tzavella he was unable to restrain his ardour, and al- 
 though his dearest pledges were in the power of the tyrant, he resolutely 
 abandoned them to their fate, and departing for Suli passed unper- 
 ceived through the enemy's guards by night and threw himself into the 
 fort of Kunghi with the caloyer. From that place he headed a des- 
 perate sally against a large body of troops under the immediate con- 
 duct of Ah himself, who came to attack Kako-Suli over the mountains 
 of Dervitziana, and put them so completely to the rout, that the vizir 
 retired to Ioannina and left the whole conduct of the war to his son. 
 The poor Suliots were at last so worn down by war and famine, and so 
 
KAKO-SULI SURRENDERS— TREACHERY OF THE ALBANIANS. 167 
 
 strictly blockaded on every side by their inveterate enemies that they 
 were reduced to the necessity of accepting terms of capitulation, which 
 were proposed and ratified on the 12th of December 1803 : yet even in 
 this their distressed situation the terror of the Suliot name was so great 
 that the whole population was permitted quietly to emigrate and 
 settle wherever they might please. 
 
 And now follow the most bloody and perfidious scenes in the ca- 
 tastrophe of this tragic history. Men, women, and children being 
 gathered together, they were separated into two bodies, the largest of 
 which under the conduct of Tzavella and Dimo Draco bent their steps 
 towards Parga, whilst the other marched in the direction of Prevesa 
 with the intention of embarking for Santa Maura. Both were attacked 
 on their road by the troops of the perfidious t} r rant. The first men- 
 tioned corps having formed a hollow square, and placed their wives, 
 children, and cattle in the midst, gallantty fought their way through the 
 enemy and effected their retreat. The other party were not equally 
 fortunate. Being overtaken by their pursuers at the monastery of Za- 
 longo, they entrenched themselves in its court and prepared for a stout 
 defence: so many troops however were brought, against them that the 
 gates of the monastery were soon forced and an indiscriminate slaughter 
 commenced; those that could escape took the road to Arta, but a 
 party of about 100 women and children, being cut oft' from the rest, 
 fled towards a steep precipice at a little distance from the convent: 
 there the innocent babes were thrown over the rocks by their despair- 
 ing mothers, whilst the women themselves, preferring death to the 
 dishonour that awaited them, joined hand in hand, and raising their 
 minds to the highest pitch of enthusiasm by songs in honour of their 
 lost country, they whirled round and round in a species of frantic 
 dance like ancient Thjades, till they approached the very edge of 
 the cliff; then with a loud shout of defiance, and as it were by a precon- 
 certed signal, one and all threw themselves headlong down. 
 
168 DESPERATE REVENGE OF SAMUEL THE CALOYER. 
 
 After the evacuation of Suli, Samuel the caloyer with four privates 
 remained in the great fortress of Aghia Paraskevi upon Kunghi, to de- 
 liver up an inventory of its stores to the commissioners appointed by 
 Vely Pasha. Having received intelligence of the vizir's perfidy to- 
 wards his countrymen, he determined to take the only revenge that 
 now lay in his power. Accordingly as soon as the Albanian bey and 
 his attendants entered, he descended into the subterranean vaults with 
 a lighted torch, and plunging it into the gunpowder of the magazine 
 blew up the fortress and all it contained into the air; by which terrible 
 act of retribution he avoided the horrid fate prepared for him by the 
 vizir, who had sworn, if he took him, to flay him alive and stuff his skin 
 as a curiosity. 
 
 Those of the Suliot exiles who escaped from Zalongo pursued their way 
 through storms of wind and rain aided by the darkness of night, fathers 
 leading their children in one hand and carrying their naked swords in 
 the other, mothers tying their infants on their backs, and some even 
 putting them to death lest their cries should attract the attention of their 
 pursuers. Next day however they were discovered by the Albanians, 
 surrounded and made prisoners ; but subsequently were released and al- 
 lowed by the vizir to settle at Vurgareli which is at the foot of Mount 
 Tzumerka, six hours distant from Arta. After their surrender a party 
 of the Albanians withdrew to a place called Rhiniasa, near the ruins 
 of an ancient city, supposed to have been Elatria: here was a small 
 settlement of Suliots, most of whom had fled, except the family of one 
 Giorgaki Botzi, whose wife and children inhabited a large pyrgo or 
 tower, called the Gula-rS AnpsxZ, which was barricadoed against attack. 
 The barbarous soldiers surrounded their habitation and called upon 
 these unhappy females to yield : the mistress, named Despo, then 
 assembled her family together and asked them if they preferred 
 death to dishonour? Being unanimously answered in the affirmative, 
 she ordered them to fire off all the ammunition which had been left in 
 
EMIGRATION OF THE SULIOTS. \6g 
 
 the tower against the ruffians, except one barrel of gunpowder : to this 
 she herself applied a match and blew up the tower with all its tenants 
 into the air. 
 
 But the scene is not yet to close over the miserable remnant of Suli. 
 Ali, whose revenge was still unsatiated, sent a considerable body of 
 forces against the colony of Vurgareli with orders for its extirpation. 
 The unfortunate colonists having received intimation of his design de- 
 camped suddenly, and took up a strong position at the monastery of 
 Seltzo, at the foot of a mountain called Fruzia, not far from the 
 Achclous. In the latter end of January, 3804, they were attacked 
 here by an army of Albanians, which for the horrid purpose of 
 revenge had been picked out of the relatives and friends of those 
 who had fallen in the wars of Suli. After a siege of several months, in 
 which these miserable exiles bravely resisted the attempts of their 
 enemies, Ali sent strong reinforcements with a severe reprimand to his 
 officers, and orders for a general assault. Thus stimulated, the bar- 
 barians made another attempt which was attended with success : the 
 Suliots were all put to the sword, except a few that escaped into Acar- 
 nania, whilst the women in a fit of desperation ran towards the Achelous 
 and cast both their children and themselves into its stream. 
 
 The Suliot mountains being evacuated by their brave defenders, Ali 
 repaired the towers and forts, and laid the foundation of that splendid 
 fortified serai which now adorns the highest top of KiafFa, and is the 
 strongest post in all his dominions. In the mean time the poor Suliots, 
 dispersed abroad amongst the neighbouring tribes, took refuge, some at 
 S anta Maura and others with the Albanian beys ; but the greatest part 
 retired to Parga and Corfu : here they subsisted upon charity, or 
 enrolled themselves in the service of their protectors, whilst the sight 
 of their dark mountains towering above the Tzamouriot hills, and the 
 thoughts of those days when they wandered about their native rocks 
 free as the mountain storm, filled their hearts with melancholy recol- 
 lections. A source from which they endeavoured to draw consolation 
 
 VOL. II. z 
 
170 
 
 SONG OF SULT. 
 
 in their misfortunes was the composition of patriotic songs, which they 
 sung upon the downfal of their country and the valour of her sons. 
 The principal one of these, denominated (x aT ' s^w) the Song of Suli, 
 and still a great favourite in Albania, will be found subjoined in the 
 margin below*, whilst a translation of it is offered to the English 
 reader, in which the sentiments are all preserved, though in a few in- 
 stances it was found impossible to adhere strictly to the simplicity of 
 the original. 
 
 SONG OF SULI. 
 
 Shall Suli submit to the foe? 
 Shall her brave palikars bend the knee ? 
 Shall the fire in their hearts cease to glow, 
 Whilst Foto is gallant and free 1 
 
 Foto lives and is free — let them sneer : 
 He bows not his neck to a lord ; 
 For his musket is Foto's vizir, 
 And Foto's pasha is his sword. 
 
 Mi^v irpoeKvva/rt irpk vaitla' 
 'Vaiafieg priv ytvj/rf 
 Elvat 6 4><3roj favravbg, 
 \laaia Stv npotrKwatu 
 llaaia tx ei 'btorog rd airaSl 
 Bff^pi rd Ttupini' 
 Etc tt)v <bpayyidv t6v '{<i>pt£ov 
 Kdt lie tiXXa rd pijydra* 
 npt v avaStfxa at M?rorfap« 
 Kdt ioiva Kur^oiao 
 Me ri)v tibXidv rflv Kaficrav 
 TSro to KaXonaipr 
 'Tin fiTraotTt BfXiJ llama 
 Mie-a 'ord Kaco<r»\f 
 "Eva iruXaKi 'tfvyavt 
 'Avd fiiea ei? T))y napyav. 
 
 2«Xio«c tov poriiaave, 
 SsXidrff tov poTriaayt, 
 TlnkaKi iroSey i'pYfirSt 
 Kdi «■« Si Karafldiyeic ; 
 'Aird rd ShXi ipypp.ai 
 Kai 'trTf)v fypayyiav ita.ya.ivii>. 
 lltiKdm ■niafiag tLttotcq 
 Kavtv icaXd j^a/xjSepq* 
 Tt rd xetfifiipr} vd a&e ww 
 Kdt rd (toe ' ' ftoKoyiiau ; 
 n^pay rd 26Xt, HTjpavr 
 Hypav tov Ajiapinov 
 n^pov rqv Ktdfpa r»)v Kani/v, 
 Td Kcdyyi 'faicuo-fitvo- 
 Kdi ticdibav tov na\6ycpe 
 Mi rleaapus vofturtic' 
 
SONG OF SULI. 171 
 
 To Franghia* the hero is sped. 
 
 Oh ! curse on each traiterous slave ! 
 
 Creel Cutzo and Botzari fled 
 
 From the ranks of the faithful and brave. 
 
 4. 
 
 To Parga's dark rock in the sea 
 
 A bird has directed its flight; — 
 
 " Bird, bird, from what crag dost thoa flee? 
 
 Where ends thy sad journey to-night?" 
 
 " On Suirs high crag is my nest : 
 To yonder green isle I repair.' 
 " So peace on thy downy wings rest, 
 Sweet bird, as its message they bear. 
 
 6. 
 
 M Then what news from dark Suli, sweet bird !" 
 •What news? Thou art free, palikar, 
 But at Suli no more shall be heard 
 Thy shout in the frenzy of war. 
 
 * For Suli lies low and forlorn ; 
 Avarico and Kiaffa renowned; 
 And Kunghi's high ramparts are torn 
 Into fragments and scattered around. 
 
 ' For the gallant Caloyer was there ; 
 And he laughed as he lighted the train : 
 Oh ! he laughed ere he soared up in air 
 To escape from the conqueror's chain.' 
 
 * i. e. to Corfu, for the Ionian islands are included in Franghia or the land of the Franks. 
 
 z 2 
 
173 STORY OF THK TB \ITOR PALASCA. 
 
 The generous mind, which knows how to respect valour and detest 
 that baseness which can betray it, may feel some relief at knowing that 
 of all those who sold themselves to Ali Pasha for the reduction of Suli 
 not one escaped retribution by the rapacious fangs of him for whom 
 they had thus stained their souls with crime. The chief instrument and 
 prime mover of this treachery, who first induced Botzari to turn traitor, 
 was named Palasca. A brief narrative of the principal events of this 
 man's life may not prove uninteresting to the reader. He was first 
 known as a robber at the head of a gang that infested the mountains 
 of Zagori and Kolonia, where he pillaged caravans and plundered tra- 
 vellers to such a degree that Ali was obliged to send a large force 
 against him and offer a considerable reward to the person who should 
 take him prisoner. After a desperate conflict he was at length secured, 
 brought to Ioannina, and condemned to the stake. On the morning 
 however which was to have seen his execution, a person found means 
 to interest the father of our host, old Anastasi Argyri, in his behalf, 
 and induce him to request a pardon from the vizir. Anastasi accord- 
 ingly went to the serai and urged his petition upon his knees before 
 Ali. " Leave him to his fate, <pi\i ps, leave him to his fate, for he is an 
 incorrigible rascal," said the vizir. Anastasi however renewed his entrea- 
 ties, which he seconded by slipping a diamond ring of great value upon 
 a finger of the hand which he held in supplication. " Well then/' re- 
 plied Ali, " if it must be so, I give you the man ; take him and do 
 what you please with him : but I know you will repent this inter- 
 ference." Upon this the old gentleman went to the prison, carried oft' 
 the culprit to his own house, kept him there for a month, and then dis- 
 missed him with a sum of money and abundance of good counsel. 
 The first news he heard afterwards of Palasca, was, that he had organized 
 a large band of desperadoes in the woods about Arta and Salagora, 
 which they rendered almost impassable ; and two months had scarcely 
 elapsed before several bales of rich Genoa velvet, the property of 
 Anastasi himself, were seized by this banditti. The old gentleman made 
 
 1 
 
STORY OF THE TRAITOR PALASCA. 173 
 
 bitter complaint of this when he next visited his friend at the seraglio, 
 but gained no other kind of pity except a loud laugh and a taunt re- 
 specting the caution which he had received. " Well, well," said Anastasi, 
 " I will at least make one attempt for the recovery of my property." 
 Upon this he went home and dispatched a messenger to Palasca with 
 a letter, to which he received an immediate answer from the robber 
 informing him that his goods were all restored at the dogana of Sala- 
 gora, and that if the bales had been full of sequins not one should have 
 been taken : he made an apology for neglecting his advice and follow- 
 ing such a life, but pleaded the impossibility of inaction, or pursuing 
 any other course but that to which he had been so long habituated. The 
 outrages of this gang at length became so daring that Ali was obliged 
 to send a little army against them, when Palasca was so hotly pursued 
 that he deserted his company and fled for refuge to the rocks of 
 Suli. There he lived for some time in good repute, married a daughte r 
 of the Captain Botzari, and led many parties of Suliots with great 
 success against the forces of the vizir. At last it struck Ali, who 
 knew the character of the man, that he might be converted into a fit 
 instrument for the promotion of his designs. He therefore entered into 
 communication with him by means of his selictar-aga, with whom Pa- 
 lasca was before acquainted, gained him over to betray those who had 
 so hospitably received him, and through his influence persuaded Bot- 
 zari also to act as a traitor to his country. Palasca was now not only 
 pardoned but received into high honour by the vizir; was made a cap- 
 tain in his army, and accompanied him in his expedition against 
 Paswan Oglou : there he so distinguished himself that he was soon 
 promoted to a still higher command, and taken completely into con- 
 fidence. Upon their return to Ioannina he was made a member of 
 the divan and intrusted with many important commissions : amongst 
 others was that of collecting the tribute in one of the districts of the 
 pasbalic. Here however the temptation became too strong, his old habits 
 returned in full vigour, he ran off with the money, and again took 
 
174 ALI'S QUARREL WITH THE BEYS OF TZAMOURIA. 
 
 refuge in Suli. At the capture of this place he was one of that party 
 who were attacked by the Albanians at the monastery of Seltzo, but 
 Avith about fifty others made his escape and fled into the forests of 
 Acarnania : there he took up again his old trade of robber with a 
 large brigade, but was at last routed by Ali's troops, discovered by a 
 shepherd amidst the reeds of a marsh, and carried off to Ioannina. 
 There he found no Anastasi again to plead for him ; but having had 
 his skin flayed from his face, and his hands and feet chopped off, he was 
 left to die by the side of the public road, a miserable spectacle to all 
 beholders. 
 
 The Suliots had not long been banished from their country before 
 they were engaged by Hassan Zapari and the beys of Tzamouria to 
 attempt its recovery. Ali, after the reduction of Suli, refused to 
 withdraw his troops from the Tzamouriot district, before all its sea- 
 ports should be delivered into his power. In fact, for political pur- 
 poses, he entered into an agreement to rent the duties of these ports 
 from the Capudan Pasha; but the beys refused to pay the revenue into 
 his hands, or allow his garrisons to collect it, though they expressed a 
 perfect readiness to receive and pay any other officer whom the Porte 
 should appoint. They now brought into the field about 7000 men, and 
 retook the important fortress of Leftherochori, which Ali had occupied 
 by a coup de main : but still fearing the event of the contest, they ap- 
 plied to the Russians in Corfu for assistance, and allured the Suliots to 
 -join their cause, with the hope of recovering their native mountains. 
 From Count Mocenigo at Corfu, they received an auxiliary force of 
 Albanian warriors, and the Suliots landed to the number of about 
 1500, at the mouth of the Acheron or Porto Fanari. The issue of this 
 contest however turned out most disastrous to the independent cause. 
 Ali took about forty towns and villages, with much plunder and many 
 prisoners, and would at this time have conquered all Tzamouria, but 
 that he thought it his best policy to act with forbearance and yield to 
 
SULIOTS ENTER THE RUSSIAN SERVICE. 175 
 
 the desire of his adversaries for peace, which was mediated by the 
 Turkish admiral Seramet Bey : thus he deceived the Porte by shewing 
 a deference to its authority and pleading his own wish to preserve order 
 and tranquillity as the sole inducement for taking up arms. 
 
 The Suliots in the mean time were very ungenerously treated by 
 their allies, having been left in total want of clothes, ammunition, 
 provisions, and every kind of assistance ; nor was any attempt ever 
 made to reinstate them in the land of their ancestors, though this had 
 been held out as the chief inducement for their services. Thus de- 
 serted they fought their way back to Parga, repelling their enemies 
 wherever they met them, and from thence retreated again to Corfu : 
 there they accepted an offer of the Russian authorities to form a regi- 
 ment in the Albanian battalion*, just as they were deliberating upon a 
 plan of emigration, for the purpose of founding a republic in some other 
 district of Greece. 
 
 The part taken in these affairs by the Russians served but to aug- 
 ment Ali's hatred against them ; and his jealousy was this year (1805) 
 still further alarmed by an event in the north of Albania, where the 
 republic of Monte Negro, which is able to bring 20,000 muskets into 
 the field, voluntarily took the oath of allegiance to the Russian govern- 
 ment. The Russians on their part were equally jealous of Ali Pasha's 
 increasing power, from whence they foresaw the most serious ob- 
 stacles against their own designs upon European Turkey: hence they 
 
 * This battalion was commanded by a Russian officer named Bekendorff ; and was increased and 
 recruited by exiles from all parts of the continent who fled either from the tyranny or the justice of Ali 
 Pasha. Each regiment consisted of nine companies, each company being commanded by a captain, 
 two lieutenants and one ensign: the pay of a captain was only sixty piastres per month, of a lieutenant 
 forty, of an ensign twenty-five, and a private nineteen. In the war which soon ensued between Russia 
 and France this corps was employed in the Neapolitan expedition, and after the peace of Tilsit it passed 
 into the service of the French under the command of Col. Minot. Foto Tzavella and Mosco his mother 
 bolh held commissions, the former that of a captain, the latter of a major in this battalion, but re- 
 signed them, like many others from disgust at ill treatment, as well as from that inherent love in the Al- 
 banian for his native soil, which, as in the case of the Swiss, never forsakes him. Foto with forty men 
 passed over to loannina, threw himself at the feet of the pasha, made the irporrKvvrims or adoration, and 
 was received into his service. Mosco who accompanied him married a second husband, and was living 
 in that capital at the time of our residence there. 
 
176 ALI RECOVERS THE GOODWILL OF RONAPARTE. 
 
 sought by every method to counteract his designs and controul his 
 movements; but not succeeding in any of their enterprises for want of 
 spirit, activity, and proper intelligence, they always involved the poor 
 Greeks in the most serious calamities, and promoted the very plans 
 which it was their intention to oppose. The}' did however succeed in 
 counteracting his machinations at Constantinople, where he began to 
 put all his arts in practice to gain permission for re-occupying the ex- 
 Venetian towns, or at least to get the appointment of the commissioner 
 vested in himself, which would have led to the same result. 
 
 About this time also the rapid progress of the French arms in Dal- 
 matia excited his apprehensions, and in this dilemma he turned his 
 views towards the English government, with which he had continued to 
 carry on an active correspondence through Lord Collingwood, the suc- 
 cessor of Lord Nelson in command of the Mediterranean fleet. Hence 
 it was that Major Leake, who had this year been sent upon a com- 
 mission to Ioannina, was detained to take a military survey of the 
 country and point out the best means of defence against an invading 
 enemy. In these measures Ali was employed, building fortresses, re- 
 forming his police, clearing the country of banditti, and above all en- 
 deavouring to sow dissensions in the neighbouring states, of which he 
 might take advantage, when the victory of Austerlitz, which was followed 
 by the union of Illyricum and Dalmatia with the French empire, made 
 him think it prudent to recover the favour of the Emperor. Bonaparte 
 having at this time serious designs upon European Turkey, did not 
 think proper to repel his advances, but even sent him some very valu- 
 able presents through General Massena. Ali himself declares that he 
 offered to make him independent king of Epirus; but he has no do- 
 cument to prove the truth of this assertion. 
 
 As Russia still continued in hostility with France and at the same 
 time manifested designs of aggrandizing herself at. the expence of 
 Turkey, Ali thought the opportunity was now arrived for attacking that 
 power in the Ionian islands, and of establishing an authority there 
 
ALI OCCUPIES THE CONTINENTAL DEPENDENCIES. 177 
 
 which he had long ardently desired. He sent a request to Bonaparte 
 that a French resident might be established in his capital, and Mr. Pou- 
 queville was selected for that important office with the title of consul 
 general, whilst his brother was appointed vice-consul under him at 
 Prevesa. 
 
 The French minister at the Porte at this time governed the councils 
 of the Divan, not only by the influence of his emperor's success but by 
 the bribes which he distributed amongst its members. Through his in- 
 terest Ali procured the pashalic of Lepanto for his son Mouchtar and 
 that of the Morea for Vely : in return he assisted Sebastiani in pro- 
 moting the rupture which succeeded between Turkey and Russia, at the 
 very commencement of which he obtained the permission he so eagerly 
 coveted of re-occupying the continental dependencies of the Ionian 
 islands. Upon taking possession of Prevesa he reduced that unfortu- 
 nate place by systematic oppression to the state of abject misery in 
 which it is now seen. Having, in defiance of the treaty of 1800, de- 
 prived most of the original proprietors of their lands and houses, 
 which he distributed amongst his Mahometan followers, he demolished 
 two-thirds of the city, overthrew the churches, laid the foundation of 
 a splendid seraglio for his own residence, and built a spacious mosque 
 All this was clone not only to prevent any European state from taking 
 an interest in its restitution, but to furnish a plausible pretext to the 
 Ottoman Porte for refusing ever after to restore a Turkish city to the 
 protection of an infidel power. Vonizza also and Butrinto were in 
 like manner ruined, though these places in the height of their prosperity 
 were insignificant if compared with Prevesa. Parga luckily escaped 
 this storm by receiving a Russian garrison from Corfu into its fortress. 
 Ali nevertheless anticipating the completion of his views upon the 
 Seven Islands, strenuously urged Mr. Pouqueville to furnish him with 
 artillery and engineers, engaging to push the war in this quarter so 
 vigorously against the Russians, that they should be unable to annoy 
 the French army of Dalmatia, or send any reinforcements to Cattaro, 
 
 VOL. II. A A 
 
178 COLONEL VAUDONCOURT'S OPINION OF THE VIZIR. 
 
 the siege of which was now meditated by the French who were in great 
 force at Ragusa. At the commencement of 1807 his wishes were gra- 
 tified ; he received both artillery-men and stores, conveyed in a gun- 
 boat and a corvette from the kingdom of Naples, whilst Colonel Vau- 
 doncourt, a skilful engineer, who had been dispatched upon a mis- 
 sion by Marmont to the beys and pashas of Erzegovina, Albania 
 and Epirus, remained in his dominions to superintend operations. 
 This officer in a dispatch to Marshal Marmont, which I have seen, 
 affirms that he had no difficulty in developing the motives and esti- 
 mating the probable services of all the other chieftains whom he 
 visited, but he describes Ali Pasha as a man arrived at the head 
 of an independent state by a complicated series of the most enor- 
 mous crimes, during which he had by forty years practice acquired 
 a dissimulation perfectly impenetrable: falsity had become his ha- 
 bitual character and his hardened soul never betrayed by the least ex- 
 ternal agitation the passion lurking within : accustomed to sacrifice 
 without mercy all the agents in those transactions which he was not 
 willing to avow, a bloody and impervious veil covered all his ma- 
 noeuvres. In the commencement of his residence at Ioannina this 
 officer proceeds to say that he was deceived by the vizir's apparent 
 symptoms of good faith, by the frankness of his protestations and the 
 calm physiognomy of his open countenance; but he soon began to en- 
 tertain suspicions of his character and designs by the solicitude shewn 
 to mislead him with regard to his military resources, by the discrepancy 
 observable between his discourse and actions, by the constant fears 
 expressed lest the French Emperor should demand the restoration of 
 the ex- Venetian towns, by the merit he made of the fortress which he was 
 constructing at Prevesa, and the fluctuation of his projects regarding 
 Parga and Santa Maura: all which things proved that Ali had views 
 and interests perfectly distinct from his allies, and he soon found that 
 these centred in his own occupation of the septinsular republic at the 
 conclusion of the war. Every subtile art was put in practice to dis- 
 1 
 
ALI FORTIFIES PREVESA. I79 
 
 cover whether Moris. Vaudoncourt possessed any secret order respect- 
 ing such an arrangement; in the mean time Ali was constantly making 
 a display of his services, agitating his presumed rights over the islands 
 which he affects to say constitute an integral part of the Epirotic ter- 
 ritory, expressing his expectations of a recompence, or endeavouring at 
 any rate to elicit a promise of reimbursement in case the cession of any 
 place should be required. The colonel did not think proper to destroy 
 these hopes lest he should detach him at once from the French in- 
 terests, and though he longed to send a statement of his surmises to 
 Marshal Marmont, he was restrained by knowing that his dispatches 
 would be opened, and he was not in possession of a cipher. A single 
 intercepted dispatch might have caused Ali to take measures injurious 
 to the welfare of the Dalmatian army, whilst his ulterior views could 
 do no harm, and the very belief felt throughout Europe that he was 
 attached to the French cause might in reality prove beneficial to it. 
 
 In the mean time Ali continued his exertions with extraordinary 
 activity : he endeavoured to intrigue with the Tzamouriots and Parami- 
 thians, for the purpose of carrying Parga by a coup de main, but in 
 this he failed. Under the direction of Colonel Vaudoncourt he threw 
 up works round loannina, strengthened his serai of Litaritza, and 
 constructed those forts and lines at Prevesa which have been already 
 described, and which are formidable when compared with Turkish 
 fortifications in general : but his unconquerable avarice, and his inse- 
 curity with regard to indemnification, upon the restoration of the 
 place being demanded, caused him to thwart his engineer in every 
 plan : however as the object of this latter was only to keep the 
 Russians in check, he submitted quietly to all the vizir's caprices, and 
 left him a work which is but partially constructed according to the 
 rules of art. Having thus secured Prevesa, he prosecuted the siege of 
 Santa Maura with all possible activity, hoping to gain possession of 
 that island before any general cession should be made, as no one 
 knows better the value of previous occupation. His army encamped 
 
 a a 2 
 
180 INSURRECTION OF TZAMOURIA, DELVING, AND BERAT 
 
 on the beach of Playa, where the channel of the Dioryctos is narrow- 
 est; it consisted of 8000 Albanians under command of his old general 
 Usuf Araps, and to this were opposed on the side of the Russians 
 about 2000 troops of the line, with a multitude of the Suliots, Ali's 
 inveterate enemies, augmented by numerous deserters who fled from his 
 injustice or his tyranny. 
 
 It is doubtful whether he would not have attained this object of his 
 most ardent wishes, had it not been for a well-timed diversion promoted 
 by the Russians, which menaced the internal tranquillity of his states. 
 This arose from a general insurrection of the Tzamouriots and Parami- 
 thians, in league with the pashas of Delvino and Berat, and if this 
 latter had been a man of more decided character, Ali, instead of 
 gaining Santa Maura, might have been driven out of Epirus. But he 
 soon found means to divert Ibrahim from the alliance, sowed dissen- 
 sions amongst the others, or checked them by his arms. 
 
 About this time our celebrated naval expedition sailed against Con- 
 stantinople, the motives and conduct of which have been so mistaken 
 and misrepresented by politicians on this side the water, that I think it 
 right to state what opinions were entertained respecting it by those 
 nearer to the scene of action. 
 
 Russia, in all her enterprises and political schemes, ever keeps her 
 eye fixed upon the possessions of Turkey : she is also aware that she 
 never can gain her point unless England be willing to assist or unable 
 to oppose her. In the year 1806 that great northern power saw a 
 favourable opening in affairs of which she endeavoured eagerly to 
 take advantage. Knowing that England was alarmed at the prepon- 
 derating influence of Bonaparte, she entered into an alliance with 
 her offensive and defensive, and then succeeded in forcing Turkey 
 into a contest by demands which she never would have made had she 
 not been sure of the assistance of her new ally. At the very com- 
 mencement of this war a powerful Russian army took military pos- 
 session of the important provinces of Moldavia and Wallachia, and 
 
 3 
 
BRITISH EXPEDITION AGAINST CONSTANTINOPLE. 181 
 
 the very existence of the Turkish empire in Europe was threatened- 
 It was not long before England saw the ultimate aim of Russia, but 
 she could not refuse her co-operation without a risk of throwing Alex- 
 ander into the arms of Bonaparte ; accordingly Admiral Duckworth 
 received orders to advance with his fleet against the Dardanelles. 
 That officer sent a frigate to Corfu, with an intimation to Admiral 
 Siniavin that he expected his contingent, which was supposed to con- 
 sist of about six ships of the line : instead of this however the Russian 
 admiral immediately bent the sails of nearly thirty; which when our 
 resident in that island observed, he instantly dispatched a confidential 
 messenger overland, in the disguise of a Turkish dervish, to inform the 
 British admiral of the fact, who, upon this intelligence, made all pos- 
 sible expedition, whilst his Russian ally delayed his course at the isles 
 of Hydra, Spezie, and Poros, to procure additional vessels and to man 
 his own. Admiral Siniavin was quite astounded when he met our fleet 
 at the mouth of the Dardanelles, on its return from Constantinople, 
 against which it had not fired a shot: by this circumstance, whether it 
 may be styled a lucky incident or a masterly manoeuvre, the Turkish 
 capital was saved from that destruction to which it had been devoted 
 by the cabinet of St. Petersburg!]. Had the Russian fleet once been 
 permitted to anchor before Constantinople, an immense force was pre- 
 pared in the Black Sea to co-operate from that quarter, and the 
 armies on the Moldavian and Wallachian frontiers were ready to pour 
 down upon their prey. At no time before was the Crescent ever 
 in such danger, and it may be long ere Russia shall again be able to 
 drive her adversary so far into the toils. The treaty of Tilsit took 
 place soon after these events. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Ali deserted by his French Allies — Sends an Envoy to the Conference at 
 Tilsit — Seven Islands conceded to the French — Ali endeavours to gain 
 Parga, but fails — His impolitic Revenge — Admits an English Agent 
 to a Conference — Assists the English in making Peace with Turkey, and 
 publicly espouses the British Interests — Expulsion of the French from 
 five of the seven Islands — AH takes Berat — Endeavours to gain pos- 
 session of Santa Maura and Parga, but fails — Makes a Gain both of 
 the English and the French — Conquers the Tzamouriot Beys — Subdues 
 Kimarra — Mission of Mr. G. Foresti as English Envoy to Ioannina — 
 AH escapes the Danger of a powerful Invasion by the French Troops 
 from Dalmatia and Corfu — Avlona taken and Ibrahim Pasha made 
 Prisoner — Ali attacks Gardiki, conquers it, and massacres the Inhabi- 
 tants — Murders the Pasha of Delvino — Takes Measures preparatory 
 to putting Ibrahim to death — The Porte sends an Officer to inquire into 
 his Conduct — Ali's Cunning — His Treatment of the French Consul — 
 Alarmed at the Conduct of the Porte — Averts the Storm — Endeavours 
 to bribe General Denzelot and Mr. Pouqueville to surrender up Parga 
 to his Arms — Failing in this Attempt he attacks it with his Troops — 
 Defeated before the City — Parga surrenders itself to English Protec- 
 tion — Subsequent Transactions relative to its History and final Delivery 
 into the Hands of its inveterate Foe — Summary of Ali's Character — 
 Views regarding his Successor, fyc. fyc. 
 
 W HEN the armistice was concluded between Russia and France, 
 Ali was still occupied in prosecuting the siege of Santa Maura and 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS CONCEDED TO THE FRENCH. 183 
 
 forming schemes for the extension of his power. But upon that event 
 taking place, his French allies withdrew from the contest, and left him 
 to his own resources. A Turk either has, or pretends to have, no no- 
 tion of this etiquette and delicacy of conduct; Ali therefore affected 
 great surprise at what he termed a base desertion, discovered traits of 
 extreme ill humour, and spread the most extraordinary rumours and 
 alarms throughout Albania, being almost thrown off the balance of 
 that equilibrium which it was still necessary for him to sustain. He 
 however dispatched a messenger to the congress at Tilsit, endeavour- 
 ing to gain by negotiation what he had failed to take by force. His 
 envoy had formerly been in the service of Bonaparte himself. He 
 was originally an Italian friar, and chief inquisitor at Malta, from 
 whence he accompanied the French army to Egypt, as interpreter of 
 languages : on his return to Europe, after the battle of the Nile, he 
 was taken by a Turkish privateer, and sent as a present to Ali Pasha 
 at Ioannina : there he met with a call to the Mahometan faith, into 
 which he was admitted under the name of Mahmet; he insinuated 
 himself into the good graces of a beautiful young Turkish damsel 
 whom he married, and of his sovereign whom he served with such 
 iieal in various negotiations that he was now appointed ambassador 
 and plenipotentiary at this important conference. Here, however, 
 his eloquence was of no avail, and he returned to Ioannina, an- 
 nouncing the cession of the Septinsular republic to the dominion of 
 France. 
 
 As soon as this cession was made, and the arrival of Caesar Ber- 
 thier as governor-general made known, Ali thought it a favourable op- 
 portunity of attempting to gain possession of Parga. With that view 
 he sent his second minister of state, Sechri Effendi, to Corfu, accom- 
 panied by the schoolmaster Psalida, who urged his demands with so 
 many plausible pretexts, and supported his claims so adroitly from 
 the tenor of that treaty which he had himself so shamefully violated, 
 that Berthier, who had received orders from Bonaparte to humour 
 
184 
 
 ALrS IMPOLITIC REVENGE. 
 
 the vizir, and concede to him any reasonable request, was upon the 
 point of surrendering np the place. Just at this time a deputation 
 arrived from Parga to counteract the wiles of their inveterate adver- 
 sary, and so forcibly did these patriots display his insidious arts, their 
 own lon» attachment and connexion with the Ionian government, and 
 their unshaken determination to shed the last drop ol their blood in 
 defence of their independence, that even Berthier was moved to com- 
 passion, and felt his soul animated by certain feelings of generous en- 
 thusiasm. He entered heartily into the cause of the Parghiotes, and 
 exerted himself so effectually with the French emperor, that the city 
 and territory were taken under protection, and definitively annexed to 
 the Ionian government. 
 
 Ali's ambassadors returning with the purpose of their mission un- 
 effected, excited in his mind a strong feeling of hatred against the 
 French interests ; at present however he did not dare to break with 
 them ; but it is scarcely possible that he should long remain amicable 
 with any power that possesses the Ionian islands. Soon after the 
 failure of these negotiations, he took an opportunity of retaliating in a 
 manner not quite consistent with his interests. The authorities in 
 Corfu became so distressed for money, owing to a strict blockade by 
 the English fleet, that they sent a deputation to the vizir requesting 
 him to accommodate them with a loan. His refusal was accompanied 
 with a haughty intimation, that the pasha of Ioannina was neither a 
 banker nor a merchant. Now if Ali had not thus permitted his feel- 
 ings of hatred or avarice to counteract his schemes of policy, he would 
 have rather doubled the sum required, and made the French his debtors 
 to as large an amount as possible: then a prohibition of supplies, 
 aided by the English blockade, would soon have upset French philan- 
 thropy, and Parga would have been transferred to him as a redemp- 
 tion of the debt. Instead of this he irritated them by every method 
 in his power, imposing enormous duties upon the corn and cattle ex- 
 ported from Albania, and demanding the money to be paid in advance. 
 
HE ADMITS AN ENGLISH AGENT TO A CONFERENCE. 185 
 
 At length, Berthier, incensed in his turn, declared his intention of 
 forcing Ali to restore the other three continental dependencies, and 
 Butrinto first, that being situated exactly opposite Corfu, at the 
 narrowest part of the channel, and called the key of the island which 
 itself is styled the gate of the Adriatic. Had the French general at 
 this time acted with promptitude, he might have taken the place with 
 500 men ; but he delayed till the vizir had thrown a garrison into it of 
 6000 Albanians, and the opportunity was lost. Ali then openly defied 
 all attempts, and in 'addition to his hatred, conceived a contempt for 
 his adversary. Lest the French should attempt to recover Prevesa, 
 he moved his army from Playa into that place, and completed the sum 
 of its misfortunes. In the autumn of 1808, a British agent was dis- 
 patched to hold a conference with him at this place, and take advan- 
 tage of the growing inclination which he daily felt towards the English, 
 whose naval power he foresaw would prove the greatest obstacle, or the 
 best auxiliary to his future designs. Our envoy landed, and was met 
 at midnight by Ali, upon the ruins of Nicopolis. There they con- 
 certed their plan of operations, and parted before the morning dawned. 
 This secrecy was adopted to keep all knowledge of the fact from the 
 French consul, whom the vizir had invited that day to a rural f£te near 
 Vonizza, on the gulf of Arta. He there left his guest in the midst of 
 amusements : a swift-sailing boat conveyed him across the gulf, where 
 a horse was in readiness, upon which he mounted and galloped to- 
 wards the plain. 
 
 Ali now became actively engaged in close correspondence with the 
 commanders of our fleet, for the purpose of bringing about that peace 
 between Turkey and Great Britain, which Sir A. Paget endeavoured 
 in vain to negotiate. Mr. Adair, who arrived at the Dardanelles in the 
 latter end of 1808, had just opened a communication with the Turkish 
 Divan, when the insurrection of the janissaries, and the death of the 
 Vizir Mustafa Bairactar threw every thing into confusion. Our 
 minister was upon the point of quitting his station in despair, but Ali, 
 
 VOL. II. B B 
 
186 PUBLICLY ESPOUSES THE BRITISH INTERESTS. 
 
 who is suspected, and I believe not without reason, of having assisted 
 in fomenting this insurrection, as well as that of the Nizam Djedid 
 under Sultan Selim*, wrote instantly to Mr. Adair, and earnestly 
 requited him to wait the event. His advice was followed; his interest 
 had groat weight in the Divan, and in a short time the peace was con- 
 cluded. During this negotiation AH took advantage of the opportu- 
 nity it afforded of attempting to engage Mr. Adair in a promise of 
 co-operating with him in the reduction of Parga : that gentleman, 
 however, not only contrived to elude so disgraceful a compact, but 
 very adroitly prevented the vizir from attempting it alone and un- 
 assisted. As soon as preliminaries of* peace were signed, Ali dis- 
 patched an envoy named Seid Achmet Etfendi to England, to en- 
 hance as much as possible the services rendered by his master to the 
 British cabinet. These indeed were considered so important, that by 
 way of acknowledgment a very fine park of artillery, with several 
 hundreds of the newly-invented Congreve's rockets, were sent him on 
 board a transport : Major Leake, who had the care of this artillery, 
 was ordered to remain, to teach his Albanian troops the use of it, and 
 to act as English resident. 
 
 Ah now publicly espoused the interests of Great Britain ; opened 
 his ports to our merchants or cruisers, and granted supplies on the 
 most liberal terms for our navy, and the armies in Spain and Portugal. 
 Availing himself of the importance which this new alliance gave him, 
 as well as the co-operation of our blockading squadron, which pre- 
 vented the French or Russians from furnishing his enemies with any 
 species of assistance, he began to attack them in good earnest. An- 
 other event soon occurred, in the autumn of 1809> which gave addi- 
 
 * His motive is evident. The Nizam Djedid, as well as the regulations of Mustafa Bairactar, were 
 calculated to infuse new vigour and energy into the Turkish state, by reforming the army, abolishing 
 the janissaries, and introducing European improvements into all branches of the government. The old 
 system of things is much more agreeable to a rebellious pasha, who sets up a sovereignty independent 
 of the PcrtQ. 
 
BESIEGES AND TAKES BERAT. 187 
 
 tional strength to his hopes and energy to his measures. This was the 
 expulsion of the French from Zante, Cephalonia, Ithaca, and Cerigo, 
 and the consequent occupation of these islands by the English. At this 
 time he was engaged in the siege of Berat, in the north of Albania, 
 whose citadel, planted upon a lofty hill on the right bank of the river 
 Apsus, was hitherto considered as impregnable. Ali however pressed 
 the siege with so much vigour, bombarding the citadel and town from the 
 opposite heights, and terrifying both the garrison and inhabitants with 
 those newly-invented instruments of destruction the Congreve rockets, 
 under the direction of an English engineer officer, that Ibrahim Pasha 
 was obliged to capitulate upon condition of retiring with his suite and 
 treasures to Avlona. Ali, in his carriage, surrounded by his troops, 
 waited on the left bank of the river till Ibrahim had passed over the 
 bridge, then entered and took possession of Berat, not only without 
 the sanction but even without the knowledge of the Porte. He 
 thought it proper however to send a dispatch to Constantinople, 
 informing his sovereign that a great part of Upper Albania being in a 
 state of revolt, and Ibrahim Pasha not only incapable, by reason of his 
 age and other infirmities, to restore order, but lying under strong sus- 
 picions from his attachment, first to the Russians, and lately to the 
 French, he had thought proper to secure this important fortress with 
 troops that could be relied on. He also sent very large sums of money 
 to be distributed among the members of the Divan, and thus procured 
 not only pardon, but approbation from the Sultan, who yielded imme- 
 diately to his request of conferring the government upon his son 
 Mouchtar. The three tails however were not taken, as is usual in case 
 of losing a pashalic, from Ibrahim, whose character was held in high 
 esteem both at Constantinople and in his own dominions. This suc- 
 cess threw into the hands of Ali, not only the strongest fortress, but 
 the finest province of Upper Albania, for the great plain of Musakia 
 is the very granary of the country. He at first used his victory with 
 great moderation, lest the people, if persecuted, should join the stand- 
 
138 ENDEAVOURS TO GAIN SANTA MAURA AND PARGA. 
 
 ard of their former chief, the remembrance of whose virtues could not 
 soon be eradicated from their minds. 
 
 Leaving this new acquisition in the hands of his faithful follower 
 Usuff Araps, Ali returned speedily to his capital, to take every possi- 
 ble advantage of our success in the Ionian sea. During the bombard- 
 ment of Santa Maura by the British troops, he encamped opposite 
 that island with a large force, anxious to find some opportunity of 
 mingling in the affray, and urging his own claims to the occupation of 
 the island : these he pressed vehemently after its surrender, but being 
 unable to substantiate them, he deceived our commanders, by cun- 
 ningly gaining permission to build barracks for his soldiers ; instead of 
 which he threw up two strong fortresses, each of which commands an 
 entrance into the Dioryctos or channel, and one of them even the castle 
 of Santa Maura. 
 
 But though Ali could neither gain from his British allies the posses- 
 sion of Santa Maura, nor persuade them at this time to drive the 
 French out of Parga, that he might himself occupy that fortress, he 
 did not think it his interest to shew any signs of ill humour at present : 
 he still had a great game to play, in which no ally could afford him 
 such material assistance as England. He was placed in a most advan- 
 tageous position between the great rival powers, and he was deter- 
 mined to make the most of it. Five of the islands were under the pro- 
 tection of the British, and two under that of the French ; the former 
 courting his assistance, and the latter dreading his enmity. In this 
 conjuncture of circumstances he played his cards admirably. He en- 
 couraged us to blockade Corfu under promise of co-operation, whilst 
 he took advantage of its distress to introduce provisions secretly for his 
 own gain and profit. Forging letters of correspondence between the 
 French generals and Ibrahim Pasha, or the rulers of other states upon 
 the coast of Albania, he very easily procured the assistance of our 
 naval commanders in all his enterprises ; whilst those hardy and war- 
 like tribes who had hitherto resisted his aggressions, because their own 
 
CONQUERS THE TZAMOURIOT BEYS— SUBDUES KIMARRA. 189 
 
 valour had been seconded by the powers which possessed the Ionian 
 Isles, finding their succours from thence cut off, and their offers of 
 devotion rejected, were obliged to surrender unconditionally to his 
 arms, or run the chance of war and extermination. Amongst those 
 who chose the former alternative, was Pronio Aga of Paramithia, and 
 the famous Hassan Zapari of Margariti, both of whom, after capitu- 
 lation, were thrown into a dungeon at Ioannina, where probably they 
 still remain. The Kimarriots, descendants of the ancient Chaonians, 
 and the bravest people of Epirus, whose very trade was war, defended 
 their rugged mountains to the last extremity, fighting sword in hand 
 with very little intermission for three successive days, after they had 
 expended all their ammunition. Ali however had gained possession of 
 their principal village, called Vouno, by his old art of bribery*, and 
 falling upon the rear of these warriors, cut the greatest part of them to 
 pieces. The country then surrendered, and the vizir having garrisoned 
 its strong holds, carried 250 hostages to Ioannina, for the peaceable 
 conduct of the inhabitants : he has since thought proper to wreak his 
 vengeance upon this unfortunate tribe, banishing them all to various 
 parts of his dominions, and burning all their villages to the ground, 
 except one only, named Cutzi, containing about a hundred Greek 
 families, whom he permitted to remain, upon condition of their con- 
 version to the faith or Mahomet. The great protector of the Kimar- 
 riots in former wars had been Gi ffer Pasha of Avlona, a man of great 
 talents and high reputation, whose death Ali procured by poison, in a 
 bath at St. SupKiu. 
 
 It was during i hrse operations, in the spring of 1810, that Mr. George 
 Foresti arrived at Ioannina in character of English resident, whose ser- 
 vices to this country during the time he held so delicate and even dan- 
 
 * It was put into his Lands bv means of four brothers of the name of Casnezzi, who resided for 
 gome yeais afterwards in °;reat disti iction at Ioannina : when however Ali thought proper to lay waste 
 Kimarra, he deprived these men ol all their wealth, and threw them, with their wives and families, into 
 prison, where they still remain : and thus he generally serves the traitors whom he has employed. 
 
 J 
 
190 ESCAPES AN INVASION BY THE FRENCH TROOPS. 
 
 gerous an appointment, have been such as no one can well appreciate 
 who is not acquainted with the difficulties he had to encounter. A Greek 
 by birth, and endowed with the sagacity of his nation, possessing the 
 advantages of a liberal education, wary, cautious, and indefatigable in 
 labour, intimately acquainted with the character of the vizir, he never 
 ceased to penetrate his designs, avert his indignation, and keep him 
 constant in that line of policy which ultimately contributed to preserve 
 Europe from the degrading yoke of French tyranny. Nor was his si- 
 tuation by any means an enviable one : many incautious promises 
 which it was impossible to perform, had been made to Ali by our 
 agents, for securing his support, and there were not wanting persons 
 who gladly took advantage of such cases to prejudice the vizir's mind 
 and avert his favour from the English minister. That gentleman how- 
 ever having adopted a plan of great forbearance and inflexible fortitude, 
 defeated every attempt made to counteract his influence with the pasha, 
 and though he constantly exhibited an inclination of bettering the con- 
 dition of his own country as well as of guarding strictly the interests 
 of that which he had the honour to serve, he continued till the very 
 end of the war to possess "reater influence over the mind of this ex- 
 traordinary potentate than was ever exercised by any other human 
 being. 
 
 In this year Ali escaped the greatest danger with which he had 
 hitherto been threatened. This was no less than a plan of operations 
 concerted between the French generals, and sanctioned by the Porte, to 
 attack him by a force from the island of Corfu and at the same time 
 by a large corps under Marshal Marmont from Dalmatia. Nothing 
 but our success in Spain, which called Marmont's army to that quarter, 
 preserved him from destruction : the French however never totally gave 
 up the plan, and would have made the attempt from Corfu alone but 
 for the intervention of a British fleet. 
 
 Poor Ibrahim Pasha had been implicated in the formation of this 
 enterprise, and was now left alone to resist the attack of his irritated 
 
TAKES AVLONA, AND MAKES IBRAHIM PASHA PRISONER. IQ1 
 
 and powerful adversary. Ali besieged him so closely in Avlona, 
 whilst two English frigates blockaded the port against the introduction 
 of supplies from the French, that Ibrahim fled Avith a few of his 
 principal followers, in disguise, and took refuge in the mountains 
 of Arberi or Liapuria. There he was soon after betrayed, and con- 
 ducted by his conqueror in a species of mock triumph to the city of 
 Konitza, from whence, after the lapse of a year, he was conducted to 
 Ioannina and confined a close prisoner in a solitary tower, where this 
 venerable old man, the father-in-law of Ali's two sons, may be seen 
 like a wild beast through the iron bars of his dungeon. 
 
 The Pasha of Delvino, with the chiefs of Liapuria, Argyro-Castro and 
 Gardiki, alarmed at the storm which they saw gathering around them, 
 speedily assembled their forces, which were attacked and defeated by 
 Ali in the plains between Argyro-Castro and Delvino. He then en- 
 tered and took possession of this latter place, making prisoners two 
 sons of Mustafa whom he sent to Ioannina and confined in a convent 
 of the island. There these unfortunate youths languished in close 
 custody at the time of our residence, shut out from every consolation 
 of society and deprived of the sight of all human beings except their 
 gaolers. Two others made their escape to Corfu where they were soon 
 assassinated by an emissary of the vizir, whose bouyourdee was found ih 
 the villain's pocket, who confessed the fact just before his execution. 
 Mustafa himself retired to Gardiki, and thus deferred the fate which ulti- 
 mately awaited him. The great city of Argyro-Castro next surrendered 
 after a short conflict, upon condition of becoming achiflick,and the whole 
 valley of the Druno, the richest and most populous in all Albania, fell 
 entirely under the vizir's subjection. No place now remained for him 
 to conquer except Gardiki : this had first offended him, and upon this 
 he purposed to pour the vial of his wrath to the very dregs. 
 
 Gardiki, whose population Was entirely Mahometan, surmounted a 
 fine conical hill surrounded by an amphitheatre of the most splendid 
 mountain scenery. Its constitution was a species of republic, each fa- 
 
lg2 ALI ATTACKS GARDIKI. 
 
 mily sending a representative to the general council, out of which 
 thirteen members were chosen by vote to form the executive government. 
 Their office was annual and they had power of life and death, though 
 it was necessary for eight of them to concur in cases of capital con- 
 demnation. No person was allowed to carry arms within the city 
 walls, and a murderer not only forfeited his life to the state, but also 
 his property, both personal and real, to the family of his victim. 
 
 The Gardikiotes well knowing what they had to expect from the re- 
 sentment of their ancient foe, prepared for the most vigorous defence, 
 giving the command of their troops, amongst which were many chiefs 
 and distinguished officers of other clans, to Demir Dosti, a general of 
 consummate prudence and exalted courage, a descendant of that very 
 person who had rescued Ali's mother and sister from the shameful 
 treatment of his fellow citizens. The vizir's army was commanded by 
 two of his most experienced officers, UsufF Araps and Emir Bey, and 
 was so large that 500 horse-loads of calamboci were distributed daily 
 in rations to the troops. 
 
 For a long time operations went on slowly and little more was 
 effected towards the subjugating of Gardiki than the capture or de- 
 struction of its dependent villages and advanced posts. This delay 
 was occasioned by Ali's own generals, who being aware of his vindic- 
 tive intentions and willing to spare a population who professed the 
 same religious faith as themselves, dispatched messenger after messenger 
 to their master, representing the extreme difficulty of storming the 
 place and requesting his permission to offer to the Gardikiotes the 
 same terms of capitulation as were accepted by Argyro-Castro. Ali 
 soon penetrated their designs, and determined to counteract them. 
 Accordingly he sent for Athanasi Vaya, that military officer upon 
 whose fidelity and discretion he can most rely, and dispatched him to 
 the army with a large body of Greek and Albanian troops, giving him 
 instructions to act promptly in combination with all the other Greeks 
 of the army. Athanasi on his arrival at the camp assembled together 
 
CONQUERS IT, AND MASSACRES THE INH ABIT ANTS. 193 
 
 certain officers, shewed them the vizir's bouyourdee couched in the 
 strongest terms, attached them to his OAvn forces, and without the 
 slightest communication with the Turkish generals, who dared not in- 
 terfere, led them sword in hand against Gardiki. He first carried a 
 large farm house at the bottom of the hill which had been entrenched 
 and converted into a strong out -post: from thence he drove its defenders 
 up a steep and narrow path leading towards the city, in which they 
 took refuge as well as in a small fortress which commanded the ascent. 
 The Greeks animated by the example of their leader, and joyful at an 
 opportunity of exterminating a Mahometan tribe, followed through 
 every difficulty and danger, forced the citadel, and soon gained pos- 
 session of the city itself, which was given up to all the horrors of an 
 assault in the very sight of the Turkish troops below. Very few per- 
 sons escaped from slaughter or captivity. Amongst the prisoners were 
 Mustafa Pasha, Demir Dosti, and a great train of beys and agas: these 
 were sent immediately under a strong escort to Ioannina, whither they 
 were brought in a species of mock triumph and treated at first not only 
 with kindness but munificence. This refinement in cruelty is not un- 
 usual with Ali when he wishes to make his victims feel more keenly a 
 reverse of fortune. The other citizens of Gardiki were distributed 
 through the different towns and villages in the vicinity, which became 
 answerable for their appearance under the most dreadful penalties; 
 whilst the unfortunate females, they who least deserved it, became con- 
 versant with calamity in its most frightful forms : after having been sub- 
 jected to the brutal passions of the soldiery, they were conducted to 
 that tigress in a human shape, Shainitza, at her palace in Libochobo: 
 there their beautiful flowing hair was cut off close to their heads in the 
 presence of that sanguinary monster, who first stamped it contemptuous- 
 ly under foot and then ordered that part of her divan to be stuffed with 
 it upon which her unwieldy form is accustomed to repose : these inno- 
 cent and unfortunate victims of inhuman cruelty were afterwards 
 vol. 11. c c 
 
19 4 MASSACRES THE INHABITANTS. 
 
 turned out destitute upon the mountains, when the penalty of death had 
 been proclaimed against any one who should harbour or relieve them. 
 After a few weeks Ali departed, at the head of a large body of troops, 
 to Libochobo, to pay his sister a visit and congratulate her upon the 
 satisfaction made to her violated honour. We may well suppose that 
 the storm of vengeance now raging in his bosom was not allayed by 
 the soothing entreaties of feminine compassion. Before he left Ioan- 
 nina he gave orders that all the Gardikiote beys should be cast into 
 close confinement in the monasteries of the island, whilst secret in- 
 structions concerning them were left with his agents. During his resi- 
 dence at Libochobo he commanded all the prisoners to be brought from 
 the surrounding districts on a certain day and hour into the court of a 
 large han called Valiare in the valley of Deropuli, about five miles from 
 Argyro-Castro, near the commencement of the Gardikiote territory. 
 Thither he proceeded at the appointed time with about 3000 of his troops. 
 Seated in his carriage at the gate of the han he ordered each person to 
 be called out separately before him, and when he had minutely investi- 
 gated his age, parentage and profession, he ordered a few to be carried 
 into a place of security (those probably who had been settlers in the 
 place since the insult which he was about to revenge) and the rest he 
 remanded back into the court of the han. He then commanded his 
 troops to advance, who were well aware of the service upon which they 
 were about to be employed: the Mahometans all held back, but the 
 Greeks eagerly mounted the walls which surrounded the area wherein the 
 prisoners were enclosed. Ali then took a musket from the hands of a 
 soldier, and having ordered the han gates to be thrown open, discharged 
 the first shot into the crowd of victims: this was the signal for a general 
 massacre; the surrounding troops fired amongst them till their ammuni- 
 tion was expended, when others succeeded and continued the work of 
 death. The fury of despair ministered arms to some of these wretched 
 prisoners, who with stones torn from the pavement and the walls wounded 
 
DEMOLISHES THE CITY. 
 
 19& 
 
 many of their destroyers : others retreated into one of the apartments of 
 the han, to which fire was immediately applied, and those who escaped 
 the volleys of musketry fell a sacrifice to the flames. In the mean time, a 
 few having burst out of the area, came in despair and flung themselves 
 at the feet of the vizir and cried for mercy in accents that might have 
 moved a heart of flint ; but Ali's heart is harder than flint, and not a 
 single rill from the fount of mercy flows into his soul : he ordered his 
 chaoushes and kaivasis to cut the imploring suppliants in pieces with 
 their ataghans before his face. The bloody work was thus completed, 
 when the bodies, amounting to between seven and eight hundred, were 
 left unburied to rot upon the spot where they had fallen ; the gateway of 
 the area was walled up and an inscription placed over it cut in stone, 
 which signifies, thus perish all the enemies of ali's house*. 
 
 On the very day of this butchery the Gardikiote beys who had been 
 left at Ioannina to the number of seventy-two, were brought down to 
 a convent upon the island opposite Mitzikeli, where they were all 
 strangled, their bodies conveyed in boats to the opposite shore and 
 buried at the foot of the mountain. From the han Ali proceeded with 
 his troops to the once flourishing city of Gardiki, which he laid in ruins, 
 placing it under an anathema or curse, and prohibiting it from ever 
 again becoming the habitation of man during the continuance of his 
 dynasty in Albania. The property of its citizens he had before converted 
 to his own use, and as they were great merchants, he kept an accurate 
 account of all the debts found due to them, and exacted the most punc- 
 tual payment. This then is the fate of Gardiki : its walls demolished, 
 its policy dissolved, its riches dispersed and its people massacred, it has 
 
 * An Albanian poet afterwards wrote a long inscription in Romaic verse, which with Ali's sanction 
 was placed over the door of this han. The reader will find it in the Appendix with a translation. The 
 whole transaction at the han may be compared with one related by his biographer of the deified Au- 
 gustus. " Perusia capta. in plurimos animadvertit : orare veniam vel excusare se conantibus una voce 
 cccurrens moriendum esse. Scribunt quidam trecentos ex dedititiis electos utriusque ordiuis, ad aram 
 Divo Julio extructam Idibus Martiis hostiarum more mactatos." 
 
 c c 2 
 
196 MURDERS THE PASHA OF DELVINO. 
 
 become a dwelling place for owls and the coiled serpent basks within 
 its desolated courts. 
 
 Every Gardikiote that was subsequently discovered within the domi- 
 nions of Ali was arrested and put to death, when his corpse was sent 
 to augment the mouldering heap of his unfortunate countrymen at the 
 han of Valiare. The vizir was grievously offended with his son Vely, 
 who refused to put to death some Gardikiotes in his service or surrender 
 them up. It is scarcely necessary to observe that Ali glories in this 
 deed, which he considers one of just and pious retribution. It 
 occurred on the 15th of March, 1812. 
 
 When the 'izir returned to Ioannina he gratified a revenge, not less 
 bitter from its being protracted, upon his old antagonist Mustafa 
 Pasha of Deivino. This wretched victim he confined in the same 
 convent with his two sons, and gradually starved him to death, allow- 
 ing him only one small piece of calamboci bread and one draught of 
 water for his daily fare. His body was then publicly exposed in pre- 
 sence of the cadi and mufti, as is customary on the death of a pasha, 
 to see whether there be any marks of violence upon the corpse : it was 
 reported that he had died a natural death ; but this report was little 
 credited at Constantinople. A few months after this horrid murder, 
 his cruelty or his policy demanded another sacrifice, and the destined 
 victim was no other than the venerable Ibrahim. However, before he 
 ventured to imbrue his hands in the blood of this respectable character 
 he thought it necessary to discover whether such a deed were likely to 
 arouse the indignation of the Porte. In order therefore to sound the 
 feelings of the Divan, he put in practice the following manoeuvre. On 
 a certain day Ibrahim Pasha disappeared from his apartment in the 
 tower. The messenger who was sent every morning by his daughters 
 to inquire after their father's health, came back and reported the cir- 
 cumstance of his absence, adding that he had made all possible inqui- 
 ries without being able to discover his abode. The daughters hearing 
 this, and feeling convinced that their father had been secretly put to 
 1 
 
HIS CUNNING WITH RESPECT TO IBRAHIM PASHA. 197 
 
 death, set up the Albanian howl for the dead, in which they were 
 joined by all the slaves of their harems as well as by the women of the 
 adjoining mansions : from thence the cry was spread from house to 
 house, and the whole city of Ioannina rung with lamentations during 
 three days for this imaginary death of Ibrahim. The occurrence 
 indeed was generally believed, and the French consul dispatched a 
 courier with the intelligence to Constantinople. This messenger was 
 stopped by the agents of Ali, his dispatches were read, and he was 
 allowed to proceed. The news occasioned a strong prejudice against 
 Ali in the minds of all. A council was called, and a capigi-bashee of 
 the highest rank was sent to Ioannina with the sultan's commands to 
 investigate the affair and bring back the depositions of the great 
 officers of religion and the law. The messenger arrived, and being 
 introduced into Ali's presence surrounded by all his ministers, stated 
 the object of his mission, and produced his credentials, attested by the 
 signet of the sultan. Ali affecting great surprise, exclaimed, " Dead! 
 Ibrahim, my father, dead!" whilst all his divan followed him in expres- 
 sions of incredulity and astonishment. Then turning to his two 
 ministers, Mahomet and Sechrl Effendi, he added, " Go and accom- 
 pany this officer of the Porte to the apartment of Ibrahim, and let 
 him see what falsehoods have been circulated respecting us/ J Ac- 
 cordingly they went and found the object of their visit in the very best 
 apartment of the seraglio, surrounded by every thing which could 
 minister to his comfort. Ibrahim being instructed in what to say, and 
 threatened with the extremity of torture, if he should disclose the 
 truth, requested the capigi-bashee to say to his lord the sultan — that 
 he kissed the ground on which he trod, and was penetrated with the 
 deepest gratitude for the honour of his kind inquiries ; but that he was 
 perfectly well and more than content with his condition at Ioannina, 
 being treated in the kindest manner by the vizir, and rendered happy 
 in the society of his daughters and their children ; that he felt himself 
 now grown too old for the cares of government, and that his domi-» 
 
198 HIS TREATMENT OF THE FRENCH CONSUL. 
 
 nions could not possibly be under better administration than that of his 
 dear friend Ali Pasha. 
 
 The capigi-bashee, having received this most unexpected answer, 
 returned to the council-room, where he was thus addressed by the 
 crafty Ali : " See," said he, " how I am surrounded by enemies! it is 
 my misfortune always to excite suspicion, and to have my mo- 
 tives and actions misrepresented; and this was the case lately, on 
 the death of Mustafa Pasha of Delvino: go now and report to my 
 master the sultan all you have seen and heard, and assure him that 
 Ali, in his old age, will not dishonour his grey hairs, nor act in oppo- 
 sition to the wishes of his sovereign." The capigi-bashee in the mean 
 time was loaded with presents and magnificently entertained, but he 
 was not allowed to be for a minute absent from Ali's satellites, who 
 surrounded him and prevented the access of all who could have told 
 him the truth : in like manner he was attended by a guard of honour 
 to the very suburbs of Constantinople, where he gave a most favour- 
 able report of Ali's conduct, who in consequence received a letter of 
 thanks from the grand signor. Ibrahim still remains alive in close 
 confinement, from which, as far as he himself is concerned, death 
 would be a fortunate release. 
 
 This affair being concluded, Ali, glad of the opportunity, resolved 
 to retaliate upon the consul-general for his interference. Accordingly 
 he interdicted all his subjects, except those who were employed as 
 spies and informers, from holding the least communication with his 
 dwelling, and thus, in the midst of a large capital, Mr. Pouqueville 
 lived in a species of the most distressing solitude. To speak the truth, 
 Ali had more reason for this conduct and for his irritation against the 
 French, than for many other acts. A regular system had been for 
 some time, and still continued to be carried on, between Monsieur 
 Andreossy French minister at the Porte, the Due de Bassano at 
 Paris, and General Denzelot at Corfu, with the Consul-general of 
 Albania, to create every species of annoyance in their power against 
 
ALARMED AT THE CONDUCT OF THE PORTE. 199 
 
 Ali Pasha, to stir up rebellion against him in his own country, or hos- 
 tility from without, and most especially to represent him in his true 
 character at Constantinople, to draw down upon his head the ven- 
 geance of insulted majesty. All this was well known; for not a single 
 courier did Monsieur Pouqueville ever dismiss from Ioannina who was 
 not arrested, and not a single dispatch did he write that was not 
 copied for the vizir's inspection, who possessed the key of his cipher. 
 It is also a fact that the Porte, irritated by the deceitful conduct of 
 Ali during the whole of his eventful life, and instigated by these 
 representations, did actually entertain serious ideas, in the year 1813, 
 of attacking him in his strong holds. But, not to compromise the 
 character of the Ottoman government in attempting what it might be 
 found impossible to effect, commissioners were sent to inspect his 
 country and make returns of his forces, his military and naval stores, 
 castles, fortresses; all of which were freely and immediately offered to 
 inspection. 
 
 Ali was at first alarmed by these demonstrations of energy, and 
 assured a Greek gentleman of my acquaintance that he would defend 
 himself to the last extremity, and if then pressed, would blow himself 
 up, with his serai of Litaritza, rather than fall into the hands of his 
 enemies. Things however were not likely to arrive at this pass ; he 
 had made himself too useful to the English, and was considered 
 likely to be too efficient in their cause, to be neglected when he had 
 need of their assistance : it was thought therefore that the representa- 
 tions of our ambassador to the Divan had no little influence in averting 
 this storm from the dominions of our ally. The arrival of a secretary 
 from the English ambassador, a few months before our visit to Ioan- 
 nina, was considered intimately connected with these arrangements, 
 and this, amongst other things, contributed probably to the marked 
 civility with which we were treated by the vizir. 
 
 During our residence in his capital those great events occurred which 
 led to the destruction of Bonaparte's authority, and the ultimate re- 
 2 
 
 A 
 
L 
 
 o o DEFEATED BEFORE THE WALLS OF PARGA. 
 
 nioval of the French from the Albanian confines. He knew that the 
 English would soon either by force or treaty occupy the remainder of the 
 Ionian islands, and he was now most anxious to take advantage of the 
 declining state of French affairs to gain possession of Parga ; that 
 single solitary rock, which alone, throughout the whole extent of his 
 dominions, was illuminated by the rays of liberty. Having failed 
 however in the alluring temptations which he held out to Monsieur 
 Pouqueville and General Denzelot, he determined upon one of those 
 prompt movements which are so habitual to him, and for which he had 
 been some time prepared, feeling little doubt but that if he should once 
 gain possession of the place, he could find means to justify his conduct 
 or appease resentment. Unauthorized then by his government, which 
 at this time was at peace with France, and without any declaration 
 of war, he moved that overwhelming force against unhappy Parga 
 in the month of February, 1814, to which I have before alluded : at the 
 same time he ordered his flotilla to sail from Prevesa for the purpose of 
 aiding in the siege and intercepting all the inhabitants that might 
 endeavour to escape to the islands : these directions, however, were 
 rendered nugatory by the spirited conduct of some English cruisers, 
 who refused to let his vessels approach. 
 
 On the 28th of February Ali's troops carried by assault Aja and Ra- 
 pesa, two frontier villages of the Parghiot territory, putting to death 
 many of the inhabitants, and sending the remainder into a slavery 
 still worse than death. After this a small fort was erected and the 
 army advanced upon Parga ; but the French garrison retired into 
 the citadel without any show of resistance ; the only opposition 
 was made by the bravery of the inhabitants. These marched out 
 with exultation to the defence of their country, accompanied even 
 by their women and children, who handed ammunition and loaded the 
 muskets of their husbands and their parents. The contest was nei- 
 ther long nor sanguinary ; for the Parghiots having the advantage of 
 ground and shelter, effectually checked the vizir's troops, especially his 
 
PARQA SURRENDERS ITSELF TO ENGLISH PROTECTION. 201 
 
 cavalry, as they charged up a narrow causeway leading to the city, 
 that they were obliged to retreat after losing several of their com- 
 panions, among whom was a near relation of Ali's, the commander of 
 the Albanian forces : the body of this young man was buried on the 
 frontier, and a mausoleum erected over his remains, at which it is 
 thought that Ali was resolved, if he took the place either by storm or 
 capitulation, to immolate his adversaries in what he would call an ex- 
 piatory sacrifice. 
 
 In spite of this victory, however, the poor Parghiotes had sufficient 
 cause to tremble, while such numerous and active enemies remained 
 hovering over their borders, and their defenders were so inert in their 
 behalf. They had still further reason for alarm, when they discovered 
 that a secret correspondence was carried on between their inve- 
 terate foe and the commandant of the French garrison. In this di- 
 lemma they dispatched a message to Captain Garland, who had 
 lately taken possession of the little island of Paxo, and requested 
 to be received under British protection. This was referred to 
 General Campbell, the governor of the Ionian isles, who immediately 
 dispatched the Honourable Sir C. Gordon with a force ready to take 
 advantage of any favourable circumstances. Captain Hoste, of the 
 Bacchante frigate, and Captain Black, of the Havannah, met this officer 
 at Paxo, and entered into consultation respecting the proper measures 
 to be pursued ; when it certainly does appear to have been deter- 
 mined that if the Parghiotes would, as of their own accord, disarm 
 the French garrison and give guarantees for the sincerity of their in- 
 tentions, they should be taken under British protection and follow the 
 fate of the Ionian islands*. 
 
 * " The fortress of Parga is considered as an appendage of the Government of the Seven Io- 
 nian Islands, and more particularly as an outwork of the garrison of Corfu towards the Turkish 
 frontier. In consequence of its situation on the main land of Greece, its commanding position as 
 a place of strength, and the increased preponderancy the possession of it would not fail to throw into 
 the hands of the Turks, and more particularly the vizir Ali Pasha of Ioannina, whose pashalic sur- 
 rounds it, it has ever been an object of much jealousy with those powers, who have made many efforts 
 to obtain a footing in Parga, and, vice versa, for these same motives, it has been equally the wise 
 
 VOL. II. D D 
 
202 ITS SUBSEQUENT HISTORY, AND FINAL DELIVERY 
 
 To these conditions the Parghiotes cheerfully consented, and with 
 the utmost secrecy they organized a plot for taking possession of the 
 citadel. An English flag, concealed under the girdle of a boy, was 
 brought into the fortress without exciting suspicion ; a signal was 
 given by ringing a bell to the conspirators, who rushed forwards, dis- 
 armed the centinels, seized upon the rest of the garrison, and hoisted the 
 British standard in place of the tri-coloured flag. Only one man lost 
 his life in this almost bloodless conspiracy ; he was a Cephalonian in 
 the French service, and commissary of police, who thrusting his 
 head out of a window, with loud exhortations to blow up the 
 magazine, was instantly shot. The inhabitants being now in full 
 possession of the place, Sir Charles Gordon landed with a detachment 
 of British troops from the Bacchante, sent off the French garrison 
 under terms of capitulation to Corfu, and took possession of the place 
 on the 22d of March, 1814. 
 
 The subsequent history of this unhappy state is as difficult to handle 
 as it is painful to dwell upon : for the Englishman who shall record 
 its annals will find himself constantly perplexed by an apparent 
 breach of faith and violation of a compact which is complained of, 
 
 policy of the powers occupying the Seven Islands, and Corfu in particular, to maintain firmly their 
 hold of that fortress and its territory." These are General Campbell's Instructions to Lieut. Brutton, 
 who commanded at Parga in May 1815, and General Campbell was the officer and High Commis- 
 sioner with whom the Parghiotes treated for the surrender of their country to the British flag. See 
 Col. de Bosset upon Parga, p. 90. The main point upon which this question turns, is the compact, 
 made or implied, between General Campbell and the Parghiotes, respecting their surrender to the Bri- 
 tish flag. If their surrender was conditional, as the instructions of that officer above quoted seem to 
 prove, it will follow that our delivering up Parga to Ali Pasha was unjust, and it will not be enough to 
 say that no mention was made of Parga in the treaties of Paris or Vienna. Turks alone would justify 
 such a proceeding by such an argument. If the surrender of the Parghiotes was unconditional, I still think 
 the measures pursued were cruel and impolitic, cruel, because the inhabitants did not receive full com- 
 pensation for their property, and could receive none for the rupture of moral ties and associations; im- 
 politic, because the tide of feeling among the inhabitants of the Levant has been thereby turned against 
 Great Britain ; because some port on the Epirotic coast is absolutely necessary for the well-being of the 
 Ionian Islands; and because Ali Pasha, so far from having a claim upon Parga, was rather bound to re- 
 store all the other continental dependencies to their original constitution, since he, in the name of the 
 Ottoman Porte, so inhumanly violated the treaty of March 1800; above all, because a Christian power 
 is thus exhibited to the world as yielding up the rights of Christians to an infidel tyrant, rights which the 
 very name of that power could have defended, and whose flag waving upon the fortress of Parga would 
 have been a sufficient protection. 
 
INTO THE HANDS OF ITS INVETERATE FOE. 203 
 
 whether justly or unjustly, by the Parghiotes; whilst he will have need 
 of extreme caution to prevent his involving innocent parties with the 
 guilty, and to guide him in affixing blame where blame is due. In 
 spite of this, the duty of an historian, when undertaken, must be impar- 
 tially fulfilled. 
 
 Under the powerful aegis of Great Britain, Parga remained for about 
 three years comparatively happy, increasing both in wealth and popu- 
 lation, although the mention of its name was omitted in the treaties of 
 Vienna and Paris, which consigned to English protection the Septin- 
 sular republic. Strange rumours however were soon set afloat, highly 
 calculated to disturb the tranquillity of its citizens; but they were 
 still unable to believe that a Christian power, so noted for its integ- 
 rity, would give them up to their bloody and inveterate enemy : under 
 this conviction their devoted attachment to their protectors was shown 
 in every mode that a grateful, industrious, and moral people, like the 
 Parghiotes, could possibly devise*: but whoever has perused the 
 
 * General Campbell, in his instructions to Lieut. Brutton, gives the following testimony to their 
 fharacteri " The inhabitants are Albanian Greeks, extremely tenacious of their freedom, and of the 
 liberty of their small community, and habitually adverse to the dominion of the Turks. They are a 
 spirited and independent people, though at the same time docile and easy of command when treated 
 liberally and justly ; and all the male population are trained to arms, and expert in the use of them." 
 
 The following is Colonel Leake's opinion of the Parghiotes (Researches in Greece, p. 413), in 
 reference to an unfavourable notion of their character, which Mr. Hobhouse had unwarily contracted. 
 " This character of the Parghiniotes is not just, and they are Greeks, not Albanians. Parga is one of 
 those places which, being in a state approaching to independence, may be supposed to furnish the 
 strongest resemblance to the ancient republics of Greece. Under the Venetians they enjoyed a munici- 
 pality of their own and certain privileges, which, when they became vassals of Turkey, were secured to 
 them by the powers who guaranteed the Septinsular republic. Hence at Parga property was more secure 
 and industry more encouraged than at any place upon the continent of Greece; but their situation has 
 been altered since the arrival of the French." Col. de Bosset's opinion of this unfortunate people is thus 
 expressed : nor had any one ever a better opportunity of discovering their character than that officer. 
 " The state of hostility which has always prevailed between the Parguinotes and the Turks, has rendered 
 them brave, and has familiarized them to arms and dangers ; they are temperate, and commonly attain 
 an advanced age. The women of Parga are generally handsome ; their dress is a jacket of cloth or silk, 
 embroidered or trimmed with gold, with a long plaited petticoat. The hair is entwined with a double 
 cord of red silk, and gracefully fastened up behind." 
 
 " The foreign garrisons which have occupied Parga at different periods, have had little influence on 
 the manners of the inhabitants. They are attached to their ancient usages : their mode of life is simple; 
 their women are chaste, though they enjoy the greatest degree of social freedom." 
 
 " They are hospitable, and one of the reasons for which Ali Pasha hates them and wishes to possess 
 their country, is, that it afforded an asylum to the victims of his tyranny. Many examples might be 
 
 D D 2 
 
204 ITS SUBSEQUENT HISTORY, AND FINAL DELIVERY 
 
 foregoing history of Ali Pasha, will be prepared to believe that his am- 
 bitious mind would not rest quietly when disappointed in a design 
 which lay nearest his heart. His gold proved in this, as in many 
 other instances, all-powerful at Constantinople. Parga was demanded 
 by the Porte as the price of her acquiescence in our occupation of the 
 Ionian isles; and a secret treaty consigned over to Mahometan des- 
 potism the last little spot of ancient Greece which had remained un- 
 polluted by her infidel conquerors. 
 
 An article however was inserted in this treaty which provided that 
 every person who emigrated should be remunerated for the loss of his 
 property ; and if the terms of this agreement had been fairly and 
 strictly adhered to, the Parghiotes would not have had so much ap- 
 parent reason to accuse their protectors of adding injustice to a cruel 
 policy. The resolution of the high contracting powers was not com- 
 municated to this people before the month of March, 1817- It was 
 then announced to them by the Lord High Commissioner of the Ionian 
 islands through the medium of Lieut. Col. de Bosset, with whom a 
 reinforcement of 300 British troops were sent to repress all commo- 
 tions, and secure the garrison from danger. It is but justice to that 
 excellent officer to say that in this delicate situation, obliged by military 
 duty to fulfil his orders, and urged by a natural generosity to give ear 
 
 adduced of their hospitality. The protection which they afforded to the unhappy Suliotes who had 
 escaped the sword of Ali, would alone establish their reputation for this virtue. 
 
 " Considered with respect to their neighbours and to their fertile soil and mild climate, they may be 
 pronounced an industrious people. To be convinced of this, we have only to view the prosperity and 
 smiling aspect of this little country, and to observe that by which it is bounded. Beyond the boundaries 
 of the territory of Parga, every thing bespeaks desolation and tyranny. The eye discovers nothing 
 but waste lands, abandoned to some scattered flocks, of which the shepherds are wretched slaves. 
 Ruined and deserted dwellings announce to the traveller, that this country, ere it belonged to the Pasha 
 of Ioannina, was less unhappy. 
 
 " Within these few years the inhabitants of that region have been torn from the land of their birth and 
 transported to remote countries, without succour, without means of subsistence, and a great proportion 
 of them have been already destroyed by sickness, want, and despair." 
 
 These accounts of the character of the Parghiotes were amply confirmed to me when I visited their 
 country, by that excellent officer the Hon. Sir Charles Gordon, under whose government the people 
 appeared to enjoy as great a degree of rational civil liberty, supported by firmness, and dignified by 
 urbanity, as I ever recollect witnessing in any settlement occupied by the British arms. 
 
INTO THE HANDS OF ITS INVETERATE FOE. 20.5 
 
 to the pathetic remonstrances and despairing resolves of the miserable 
 suppliants, he shaped his course in such a manner as to entitle him to 
 the praise of the good and virtuous, the approbation of his own con- 
 science, and the eternal gratitude of the unfortunate Parghiotes. 
 
 Considerable pains were taken in persuading this people to transfer 
 allegiance to that intriguing foe who wished to become their sove- 
 reign ; but in vain : a thorough knowledge of his character acquired by 
 an experience of thirty years, saved them from this extremity of cala- 
 mity. With one voice they resolved, if the decree against their be- 
 loved country was irrevocable, to beg their bread in foreign lands 
 rather than be butchered in cold blood by a tyrant who had sworn 
 to sacrifice every Parghiot to his implacable revenge. Who that has 
 perused these pages will be surprised at their resolution ? Under such 
 circumstances Colonel de Bosset ordered an estimate to be taken of 
 public and of private property. This amounted, on a very moderate 
 calculation, to more than 500,000 pounds, a very small pittance for a 
 well-built city* containing near 4000 inhabitants, and villages peopled 
 with many more, in a tract of the most fertile territory that can be 
 imagined, within a circuit of twenty miles, enriched with 81,000 olive 
 trees, from which the finest oil in the Levant was made and exported 
 on the most advantageous terms. 
 
 With this sum however the poor inhabitants professed themselves 
 satisfied, and consented to be transported from the land of their birth, 
 the sepulchres of their forefathers, the edifices of their religious worship, 
 and all those sweet associations which render the name of our country 
 so sacred. Ali Pasha however was not quite so contented, as he 
 thought it very hard to pay any thing at all for a place which he 
 always affects to consider his own by right of promise. Agents there- 
 fore were sent to him at Ioannina, who entered into a long and 
 tedious negotiation, which was studiously protracted by Ali, for the 
 
 * The author has resided in Parga, and here speaks generally from observation. 
 
206 ITS SUBSEQUENT HISTORY, AND FINAL DELIVERY 
 
 purpose of gaining time and watching any opportunity that might 
 occur for seizing his unguarded prey. In the mean time the poor 
 victims had been deprived of their best friend : Colonel de Bosset, 
 being considered an unfit agent in these transactions, was relieved 
 from his post and departed for England : other commissioners were 
 appointed to value the property of the Parghiotes; Ali poured his 
 troops around their frontiers, and exerted every nerve to gain pos- 
 session of the place by endeavouring to sow dissensions, to poison 
 the water and bread of the inhabitants, to introduce a number 
 of his adherents into the city by stratagem, and to terrify the people 
 by the most horrid threats and menaces of vengeance unless they sub- 
 mitted to his authority. All these efforts however were rebutted 
 by their constancy and vigilance: but being in daily expectation 
 of seeing their country delivered over to their persecutor, they ne- 
 glected either to sow the ground or to engage in commercial specula- 
 tions ; so that in addition to the rest of their miseries, famine and 
 want began to stare them in the face. In this state of distress, aug- 
 mented to the utmost by Ali's agents, who prohibited all supplies 
 wherever his authority extended, the ministers of religion, joined by the 
 primates, set a noble example of patriotism and liberality for the 
 relief of their suffering brethren ; and by their means a supply of corn, 
 though scanty, was procured. 
 
 At length appeared the new valuation of property, for which a 
 sum less than 150,000/. sterling was deemed an equivalent*! and 
 
 * This valuation was, I believe, made between British and Albanian commissioners alone ! and no 
 Parghiot was allowed a voice in what so intimately concerned his interests. If a fair estimate had been 
 made of Parghiot property, I know Ali Pasha enough to say, that he never would have become the 
 purchaser. Will any traveller in Greece, or any other person acquainted with the subject, say that 
 81,000 of the finest olive trees in the world (as the district in which Parga is situated is called 
 Elaiatis by Thucydides, icar i&xiiv, for the abundance and excellence of these trees) are not alone 
 worth more than the whole sum given by Ali Pasha for the Parghiote territory ? This I will venture 
 to say, without fear of contradiction, that the gathering of the fruit alone in an abundant season is 
 worth more than was given for the trees. " An acre planted with vines or olives, however arid or 
 rocky the soil may be, will very easily be made worth ten times as much as an acre of the richest corn 
 land." Michaelis on the Laws of Moses, vol. iii. p. 138. 
 
 2- 
 
INTO THE HANDS OF ITS INVETERATE FOE. 207 
 
 after some further delay, during which all remonstrances were answered 
 only by threats, preparations were at length made for the evacuation 
 of Parga, which took place on the 10th of April, 1819, during the 
 festival of Easter. 
 
 The concluding details of this mournful history are extracted chiefly 
 from the papers of the day, confirmed by the best authorities which 
 I could procure. By the Lord High Commissioner's orders, the officer 
 commanding the British garrison at Parga made known to the in- 
 habitants, that according to arrangements made with Ali Pasha, a 
 Turkish force was to enter their territory without delay ; but that the 
 English troops would remain for their protection until the emigration 
 was completed. On receiving this intimation, which was confirmed by 
 the appearance of a large Ottoman force, the Parghiotes, having held 
 a consultation, sent to inform the commandant, that such being the 
 determination of the British government, they had unanimously re- 
 solved, that should one single Turk enter their territory before all of 
 them had a fair opportunity of quitting it, they would put to death 
 their wives and children, and defend themselves to the last extremity 
 against any force, Turkish or Christian, that should violate the solemn 
 pledge which had been given them. 
 
 The English commandant, perceiving by the preparations that 
 their resolution was fixed, instantly dispatched information to the 
 Lord High Commissioner at Corfu, who sent to expostulate with the 
 Parghiotes. When the British officers arrived at Parga, the inha- 
 bitants were disinterring the bones of their ancestors from the churches 
 and cemeteries, and burning or burying them in secret places to prevent 
 their profanation by the Turks. The primates, with the protopapas at 
 their head, assured the officers that the meditated sacrifice would be im- 
 mediately executed, unless they could stop the entrance of the Turks 
 who had already arrived near the frontier, and effectually protect their 
 embarkation. This appeared to be no idle threat, and fortunately 
 means were found which prevailed with the Ottoman commandant 
 
208 ITS SUBSEQUENT HISTORY, AND FINAL DELIVERY 
 
 to halt his forces : in the mean time the Glasgow frigate, which had 
 been sent from Corfu, having arrived, the embarkation commenced. 
 It is said that the appearance of this brave people, kneeling down to 
 kiss for the last time the land which gave them birth, and watering it 
 with their tears, was a most affecting scene : some of them carried 
 away a handful of the soil, to be a solace in their misfortunes, an 
 inheritance to their children, a memento of their wrongs, and a stimu- 
 lus to the recovery of their country : others took for the same pur- 
 pose a small portion of those sacred ashes from their pile, which had 
 been once animated by the spirits of their forefathers, and many carried 
 away the bones which they had not time to burn. When the bands of 
 Ali Pasha reached the walls, all was solitude and silence. The city, 
 as it has been observed, received its infidel garrison as Babylon or 
 Palmyra salutes the Christian traveller in the desert — nothing breathed, 
 nothing moved ; the houses were desolate, the nation was extinct, the 
 bones of the dead were almost consumed to ashes, whilst the only sign 
 that living creatures had been there was the smoke slowly ascending 
 from the funeral piles*. 
 
 * In the above details, I profess myself to have been uninfluenced by any party feelings, and unex- 
 cited by any motives to detraction. I am totally unacquainted with the individuals connected, or 
 supposed to be connected, with the cession of Parga, and no one, I think, who has read these pages, 
 will accuse me of a desire to calumniate my country ; a country whose constitution I venerate and 
 whose very soil I love ; but he who loves his own country best will be most tender of the rights of 
 others, and I own I have been anxious that every shadow of reproach should vanish fiom the name of 
 that country amongst foreign nations, and that its ancient character for honour and generosity should 
 be preserved inviolate : having moreover been a resident upon the rock of Parga and also resident 
 in Albania, when the tyrant, whose history I have undertaken to portray, made his first attempts 
 against that republic, I felt called upon to detail fearlessly and impartially every circumstance 
 of this unfortunate case, upon the authenticity of which I could rely. I presume not to blame 
 any individual, I wish not to exasperate any party ; but I wish earnestly to impress upon a Govern- 
 ment which is always ready to correct any oversight in its political meusuresf the necessity of inquiring 
 strictly and impartially into the conduct of its agents: it is very easy to oppress the oppressed, and it 
 is certain that the whole continent rings with exclamations, not more at the decrees made against 
 Parga than at the extreme harshness with which those decrees have been put into execution : a harsh- 
 ness very different from that humanity and liberality which appear so prominent in the speech of the Lord 
 High Commissioner before the Legislative Assembly of the Ionian states, on the 7th of April, 1820. 
 Let the reader weigh well in his mind the following paragraphs, which appeared in the same paper with 
 his Excellency's speech, and then say whether some inquiry upon this important subject, which com- 
 promises the honour of a great nation, is not indispensable. 
 
INTO THE HANDS OF ITS INVETERATE FOE. .J09 
 
 The unfortunate exiles are now principally at Corfu and Paxo, 
 no longer a nation, no longer united by the same public and pri- 
 vate ties; but houseless wanderers, either waiting for the distribu- 
 tion of that miserable pittance which is called a compensation 
 for the loss of property, natal soil, and social existence, or living 
 upon their capital, already drained down by many expenses, and 
 reducing themselves slowly to want and beggary. In the mean time 
 the fierce implacable tyrant triumphs in their ruin and glories in 
 his success at having wrested this last tract of Christian land from 
 the hands of Christians. " As we pursued our way," says an en- 
 lightened English traveller*, " over the Thessalian plain, the Alba- 
 nians frequently burst forth into clamorous war-songs in praise of the 
 
 " On the 23d of November last a notification on the part of Sir Thomas Maitland was made to the 
 Parguinote emigrants who are still at Corfu, informing them that, upon consideration, his excellency 
 intended to reimburse to them the deduction made for freightage of the money brought on board the 
 English frigate Ganymede', Captain Spenser, from Prevesa to Corfu, and other expenses; but that he 
 should expect from them, after such reimbursement, a receipt in full for the value of the property they 
 had left at Parga. They were also informed that, should the Ionian government have any unoccupied 
 lands, a grant would be made to them, and a church built at the expense of that government. 
 
 " The answer of the Parguinotes was, that if the deduction in question had been improperly exacted, 
 they did not conceive that any conditions could be imposed on restoring the amount to them ; that no 
 consideration, not even the distress which many of them were suffering at the time, should induce them 
 to give an acknowledgment for an indemnification of which they had received only a part. That if it 
 was his excellency's intention to grant them lands, they begged that such lands should be specifically 
 pointed out, that it might be seen whether they were really susceptible of cultivation, or sterile and un- 
 cultivatable, like the little island of Meganizi, of which mention had originally been made ; that they had 
 sent deputies to England to obtain redress for the wrongs they had sustained ; and that, until an answer 
 was received, it was not in their power to enter into any new arrangements. 
 
 " Anothe'r account states, that Ali Pasha has lately made an official application to the British govern- 
 ment, for reimbursement of the money which he has paid into the hands of Sir Thomas Maitland, for the 
 indemnification of the Parguinote emigrants who abandoned their property. The reasons assigned by 
 him for this extraordinary reclamation are said to be principally founded on the violation of two secret 
 agreements made between him and Sir Thomas Maitland. The first relates to a promise which he pre- 
 tends to have been made to him, that the British government should assist him in paying the indemnity 
 due to the Parguinotes, which promise was not fulfilled, he having been obliged to pay the whole of the 
 reduced indemnity, amounting to 150,000/. The second refers to a compact made at Prevesa, at the 
 time Sir Thomas Maitland received the abovementioned sum, according to which Ali was authorized to 
 send to Corfu one of his agents, to be a member of the commission appointed to settle the claims of the 
 Parguinotes ; and this compact he declares to have been violated also, since his deputy was not allowed 
 to continue in that commission, although he wa6 received and installed as one of its members, on which 
 exclusion the agent entered a formal protest." 
 
 * J. B. Wright, Esq. fellow of Jesus college, Cambridge. 
 
 VOL. II. E E 
 
210 SUMMARY OF ALPS CHARACTER. 
 
 great deeds of Ali Pasha. The chorus of one was — That his last action 
 had surpassed all the preceding, for he had made the Christians Land 
 become a part of Turkey — alluding to that brilliant achievement the 
 cession of Pargu." 
 
 Soon after the evacuation of this unfortunate city, it is said that Ali 
 came to view his newly acquired territory, with the beauty, fertility, and 
 happy situation of which he was so much struck as to confess he was 
 not surprised at the determined resistance made by the inhabitants 
 against his attacks. But it is not the occupation of Parga that will 
 content his ambitious mind, although its possession makes him master 
 of continental Greece from the Attic boundary of Parnes to the rugged 
 mountains of Illyricum. As long as he lives he will exert all his 
 energies to gain a footing in the Ionian islands, and upon his death-bed 
 he will bequeath these sentiments to his successor. The late insur- 
 rections in Santa Maura, which have not been quelled without much 
 bloodshed, may shew upon what a frail tenure this island is held in the 
 vicinity of so powerful and ambitious a potentate whom England has 
 taught to despise rather than to fear her. 
 
 We have thus brought the history of this extraordinary man to a 
 close. In estimating his character we must not be dazzled by a name : 
 the splendour of conquest is too apt to mislead the judgment and 
 throw into shade those vices which darken and deform the portrait. 
 The epithet " great" must not be indiscriminately applied to the hero 
 who treads the strait path of glory in labouring for the advantage of 
 his fellow-creatures, and to the daring adventurer, who, following the 
 crooked ways of an interested policy, and unrestrained by any con- 
 scientious scruples, practises upon the simplicity and abuses the con- 
 fidence of mankind, for the organization of individual despotism. 
 
 The great basis of Ali's character is extreme selfishness, and he pos- 
 sesses many qualities positive and negative, natural and acquired, 
 which are well adapted to promote this ruling passion. He has few 
 
SUMMARY OP ALI'S CHARACTER. 21 1 
 
 feelings in common with the vest of men : he regards all human beings 
 as objects calculated to advance his own views and interests, whilst his 
 very successes have resulted as much from a deficiency in human sym- 
 pathies and moral virtues, as from his talents and his courage. No pity, 
 no remorse ever turned him aside from the object of his pursuit : with 
 him faith and justice are but terms invented to dupe the ignorant or 
 unsuspecting ; and the most favourite art with which he is acquainted 
 is that of deceiving all mankind. 
 
 Deprived of the advantages of early education, his study has been 
 the human heart, and with the intricacies of that complicated labyrinth 
 he is well acquainted : the native vigour of his genius readily supplies 
 expedients for the suggestions of his ambition, and his moral courage 
 always rises in proportion to the exigencies that require it. He has a 
 quick perception of circumstances, and very rarely allows the oppor- 
 tunities of action to escape him : he possesses decision, and that deci- 
 sion is followed by the most indefatigable perseverance : he feels his 
 ground before he commences operations, but never neglects to go 
 where fortune seems to point : he is gifted with the talent of discover- 
 ing amongst his followers the fittest instruments to be employed and 
 the most faithful guardians to be intrusted; nor does he allow the 
 etiquette of oriental dignity to prevent his communication with society 
 and intercept the knowledge thence to be acquired. He has dexterity 
 enough to dazzle the multitude, and strength of mind to discard many 
 national prejudices which might oppose his advancement. He attaches 
 his troops to his interest not more by a ready participation in their 
 hardships, difficulties, and dangers, than by the easy familiarity with 
 which he engages their confidence or flatters their vanity, and by the 
 ability with which he associates their military enthusiasm with his suc- 
 cess and identifies their glory with his own. He is a great master of 
 political intrigue, and so versed in the arts of simulation and dissimula- 
 tion, that he has not only deceived his own government, but every 
 
 E E 2 
 
2 j2 SUMMARY OF ALl'S CHARACTER. 
 
 other which has attempted to turn him to its advantage: each in 
 turn has discovered its plans betrayed and itself deserted, as soon as a 
 more powerful ally or a more beneficial cause attracted his regards. 
 " Divide and conquer," is his favourite motto : he has no remorse in 
 setting father against son and son against father, brother against 
 brother, and friend against friend : in every town or district which 
 attracts his cupidity, dissensions are studiously promoted, jealousy and 
 distrust increased, and intestine wars excited to disunite the inhabit- 
 ants and desolate the country : he then procures for himself an invita- 
 tion as an ally or arbitrator, when he contrives to eject both the innocent 
 and guilty, and remains master of the contested territory. His perfidy 
 is more than Punic : he will make a treaty and violate it in the same 
 hour: he will allure his adversaries into his power by the kindest words 
 and fairest promises, and then destroy them without compunction. 
 His desire of vengeance is deeply seated, knows no limits, and in- 
 creases by delay; neither does he possess the least portion of that 
 magnanimity of soul which can requite valour and generosity in a foe. 
 In discourse he is equally skilful at discovering the sentiments of 
 others, and veiling his own amidst impenetrable obscurity. As his 
 actions seldom correspond with his promises, so his looks rarely indi- 
 cate his thoughts: he can throw into his manners and his countenance 
 the appearance of frank honesty and an affectation of gentleness, 
 whilst rage and fury fester in his heart : he frequently seems most gay, 
 when he is inwardly torn by chagrin, and most courteous when he 
 meditates the darkest deeds. Yet Ali is not wantonly savage, nor 
 does he require, like a Djezzar Pasha, to be lulled to rest with the 
 cries of innocent and agonized victims ; let his own safety or even 
 his interest be endangered or threatened, and no principles of religion, 
 no ties of friendship, no dues of gratitude, will restrain him in his 
 sanguinary career. 
 
 As Ali gazes at power with an eagle's eye, so he clings to wealth with 
 
SUMMARY OF ALI'S CHARACTER. 213 
 
 the appetite of a vulture. His avarice is so excessive that one might 
 almost think his desire of dominion proceeded from the wish of grati- 
 fying this insatiable cupidity. In procuring wealth he has recourse not 
 only to a legal revenue, but to the meanest artifices and the most 
 shameful extortion. He has not political knowledge enough to see 
 that the encouragement of commerce and agriculture, with equitable 
 laws and financial arrangements, would, by an increase of capital and 
 extension of credit, augment his revenue and support his government; 
 but he prefers to fill his treasury by forced avanias and grievous exac- 
 tions, annihilating industry and stifling all the bounties of nature in 
 their birth. A vast deposit is always kept unemployed and used as the 
 exigency of the times may require; when this is satisfied, the expendi- 
 ture is replaced by additional contributions. The great repository of 
 this stationary wealth, to the amount, as I was informed, of more than 
 two millions sterling, is a lofty tower in the garden of his seraglio at 
 Tepeleni; but he possesses also jewels of immense value, with nume- 
 rous stores of furniture and utensils of all kinds, which he has pillaged 
 not only from individuals but from cities and towns taken by assault 
 or received under his protection. On one occasion he distributed 
 many thousand pounds weight of brass kettles, pots, and such imple- 
 ments, to the French engineers at loannina, for the purposes of a 
 cannon foundery which they had established by his orders. 
 
 To no art does he owe more of his success than to that of bribery, and 
 his gold has often penetrated into those places which were proof against 
 his arms: neither does his inordinate avarice repress, but rather pro- 
 motes this system, for he scarcely ever fails to recover the bribes sooner 
 or later with interest, whilst the life or liberty of the traitor is sacrificed 
 to his skilful hypocrisy: yet with the power of assuming the most win- 
 ning manners and clothing his stern countenance in complacent smiles, 
 he contrives to draw fresh victims into his fatal snares, directs their 
 villany to his own advantage, and persuading each deluded votary that 
 
2J4 SUMMARY OF ALI'S CHARACTER. 
 
 his fortune will be more prosperous than that of others, overwhelms 
 at last both adversaries and adherents in a common ruin. He once 
 gave a man a bouyourdee to kill another who was obnoxious to him: 
 the bloody deed was perpetrated, but the assassin found in the pocket 
 of his victim a similar boujourdee for his own destruction. He car- 
 ried it to the vizir, and expressed some signs of astonishment; when 
 Ali, laughing, replied, " He3 r murrie, if I had not given him this, he 
 would never have put himself in your way, and you would have had 
 no chance of effecting your purpose." In fact, the tyrant wished to 
 get rid of both or either of them. 
 
 Let us now contemplate the portrait in a light which will perhaps 
 show some of its features in a more agreeable point of view. Though 
 we cannot give our unqualified admiration to any man, however bril- 
 liant may have been his career, whose actions have been directed 
 solely by self-interest and discoloured by the most glaring vices, and 
 though it is easy for a despotic tyrant to benefit one part of the com- 
 munity by oppressing another, or excite the admiration of future 
 generations, by adding to the miseries of the present race, still we 
 ought to estimate the character of a person with a reference to the habits 
 of his country, the system of his education, and the principles of his 
 religion, keeping in view also the example which others, placed in 
 similar situations, exhibit for his imitation. 
 
 Bearing in mind these considerations, I should pronounce the 
 people of Albania comparatively happy, whether reference be made to 
 their own state before the consolidation of Ali's power, or to that 
 which still exists in other parts of the Turkish empire. In one case 
 the contiguity of many small, fierce, independent tribes, engendered 
 constant and implacable discord. If blood was shed even by acci- 
 dent, vengeance, uncontrouled by law and intrusted to individual 
 discretion, swallowed up all other passions and rendered society a 
 scene of terror and suspicion. So lawless were the natives of these 
 
SUMMARY OF ALI'S CHARACTER. Z \S 
 
 wild mountains that every defile and rock was rife with muskets 
 aimed against the unwary traveller or the unprotected merchant ; if 
 he escaped with life, his property was plundered and his person sold 
 into slavery : to such an extent did brigandage prevail that agriculture 
 was neglected, commerce languished, the very arts of civilization 
 began to disappear, and the whole land to present one unvaried scene 
 of poverty and wretchedness. In the other case, I mean that which 
 regards the general state of the Ottoman empire, it is sufficient to 
 allude only to that horrible theocratic principle which makes power 
 depend solely upon faith, and converts every Mahometan zealot into a 
 remorseless tyrant. On the contrary, in Albania, though all are sub- 
 ject to one mighty despot, no petty tyrants are permitted to exist, and 
 protection is given equally to the Turk, the Greek, and the Albanian, 
 against the aggressions of each other. Religious toleration is freely 
 granted, and the regularity of monarchical power has in some measure 
 succeeded to the factions of aristocracies and republics. There exists 
 at presemt a security in these dominions which we should seek in vain 
 where the baneful influence of the Crescent elsewhere extends : a 
 police i§ organised, robbers are extirpated, roads and canals are made 
 or repaired, rivers are rendered navigable, so that the merchant can 
 now traverse the Albanian districts with safety, and the traveller with 
 convenience; agriculture in spite of all obstacles improves, commerce 
 increases, and the whole nation advances perhaps unconsciously to- 
 wards higher destinies and greater happiness. 
 
 With regard to the domestic habits of Ali Pasha, his attention to 
 business, and the distribution of his time, are amongst the most ex- 
 traordinary. So jealous is he of power, that he rarely calls upon 
 the services of his ministers, but transacts all affairs of government 
 himself. He rises very early in the morning, and takes a cup of 
 coffee with his pipe : he then gives audience to his various officers, re- 
 ceives petitions and decides causes, pronounces judgment, settles the 
 concerns of his army, navy, and revenue, till noon; he then dines upon 
 
516 SUMMARY OF ALI'S CHARACTER. 
 
 very frugal fare, a few plain dishes, and a moderate portion of wine. 
 After dinner he sleeps for an hour or two, and then smokes his houka 
 whilst he is occupied in similar occupations till six or seven o'clock at 
 night, or even much later : he afterwards takes his supper and retires to 
 his harem. In the expeditions which he frequently makes through vari- 
 ous parts of his dominions, he will sometimes partake of the frugal fare 
 of a cottager, and sleep beneath his humble roof. No one knows be- 
 forehand where he intends to transact the business of the day : some- 
 times he fixes upon the Serai of Litaritza, sometimes that of the 
 Castron, and often he retires to the gardens of the Kiosk, or to some 
 one of the numerous tenements which he possesses both within and 
 without the city. Wherever he may be, a large quantity of Albanian 
 troops are generally seen scattered about, in their white capotes, wait- 
 ing for his exit. This extraordinary attention to business is produc- 
 tive of great inconvenience to his subjects, for in spite of all his quick- 
 ness in decision, and the impossibility of appeal, a vast accumulation 
 necessarily takes place, especially during his frequent absence from the 
 capital. 
 
 He is not at all strict, and is thought by no means sincere, in the 
 article of religion. He visits a mosque but once in the year, at the 
 festival of the Ramazan, when he goes in grand procession. His 
 mind, strong as are its natural faculties, being untutored in philosophy 
 or science, and unaided by religious truths, clings to the marvellous 
 and bends beneath the power of superstition : hence it is that he is 
 greatly alarmed at thunder and earthquakes, at which times probably 
 remorse finds an opportunity of applying her vindictive lash. 
 
 Hi sunt qui trepidant et ad omnia fulgura patient 
 
 He believes in charms, and thinks that chemical combinations of 
 matter might be discovered, which would cure all diseases, and pro- 
 long life to an indefinite extent; this makes him often the dupe of 
 cunning and designing men. 
 
SUMMARY OF ALI'S CHARACTER. 217 
 
 Though strongly addicted to sensual lusts, and proud of the success 
 which formerly attended his amours, he pretends to take great concern 
 in the morals of his people, and perhaps no town exists where public 
 prostitution is so severely punished as at Ioannina. In his exterior de- 
 portment he discovers little of that ostentation which often sits so awk- 
 wardly upon persons who have risen to very exalted stations. AH on 
 the contrary is affable and condescending as well to strangers as to his 
 own subjects. His firmness of mind and command over himself is 
 well illustrated in the following anecdote. In the year 1813, as he 
 was inspecting some repairs in the great serai of the Castron, a large 
 block of stone fell from a scaffold upon his shoulder, and laid him 
 prostrate on the ground. Every one present thought he was killed, 
 and a general alarm was spread : but Ali, though seriously hurt, 
 ordered a horse to be equipped instantly, upon Avhich he mounted and 
 rode round the city, with a single Albanian attendant, without dis- 
 covering the least mark of pain, though he had received a wound 
 which confined him several weeks to his bed. After his recovery he 
 told Mons. Pouqueville that he acted thus to assure his people of his 
 safety, and to deprive his enemies of the pleasure of thinking he was 
 likely to die. The consul replied, that every man had his enemies, 
 but he could not think those of his highness went so far as to desire 
 his death. " What?" said Ali, " there is not a minute of the day in 
 which they do not offer up prayers to heaven for my destruction : how 
 can it be otherwise ? for forty years I have been doing every thing bad 
 to every body : in this period I have caused 30,000 persons to be 
 hung and put to death in various ways ; and they know that if I live 
 longer I shall do more: would you have them not hate me then? their 
 hatred however will not affect my health," — and upon this he burst 
 into his usual Sardonic laugh*. In his dress Ali is generally plain and 
 
 * I had this anecdote, not from Mr. Pouqueville, but from another person who was present at the 
 conference. 
 
 VOL. II. F F 
 
218 SUMMARY OF ALPS CHARACTER. 
 
 simple, although some particular parts of it display the magnificence of 
 a sovereign. In person he is about the middle size, but his body being 
 long in proportion to his legs, he appears to the greatest advantage on 
 horseback, or when seated upon the sofa of his divan. He was ex- 
 tremely active in his youth, but had become unwieldy by reason of his 
 corpulency several years before our arrival in Ioannina; and I under- 
 stand, that since our departure, his increased bulk has tended so greatly 
 to sour his temper, and urge him on to so many acts of wanton cruelty, 
 that his character is likely to take a stain of much deeper dye than it 
 had before acquired. One of my Albanian correspondents, in a letter 
 which I have lately received, expresses a sentiment on this subject, 
 very similar to that of the Persian grandee, who never left his mo- 
 narch's apartment without being inclined to feel with his hand 
 whether his head was upon his shoulders. The following instances 
 have been related to me of his atrocious ferocity. In the year 1816" 
 he laid waste, without any pretext, the whole canton of Kimarra, 
 burning all the villages, and turning the poor inhabitants adrift upon 
 the wide world, to suhsist upon the charity of their neighbours. In 
 the year following, one of those young Albanian pages whom I have be- 
 fore mentioned as belonging to the Seraglio, stole some article of 
 trifling value. The chief eunuch reported it to the vizir, who ordered 
 the poor yonth to be cast into the leopard's den at the entrance of 
 the Kiosk. This cruel command was immediately put into execution ; 
 but the animal, by constant association with the guards had become so 
 tame, that he began to fawn upon his victim, and play with him, in- 
 stead of tearing him in pieces. The circumstance was reported to 
 Ali ; and the tyrant, more ferocious than the beast of prey, ordered 
 the wretched boy to be cut alive into small pieces, and then thrown 
 back to be devoured. 
 
 As Ali is now more than seventy years of age, and has for many 
 years past been the prey of a mortal disease, his dissolution cannot be 
 far distant, when the reins of power must drop from that iron hand 
 
VIEWS REGARDING HIS SUCCESSOR. 219 
 
 which has long held them with so firm a grasp. On this event his 
 three sons will probably be competitors for his throne. Mcuchtar the 
 eldest, having not one virtue to recommend him but hs martial 
 courage, has made no progress at all during his residence n Albania 
 to secure the affections of any class among his father's subjects, ex- 
 cept perhaps a portion of the Albanian soldiery. Brutal feocity, de- 
 grading sensuality, and monstrous perfidy, are the leading features of 
 his character : he is considered as forgetful of favours and a deserter 
 of his friends, without any portion of that political talent wiich might 
 enable him to retain dominion, if fortune gave it into his hards. 
 
 Vely Pasha, the vizir's second son, is in many points of character 
 totally different both from his father and his elder brother. He is con- 
 sidered the most accomplished gentleman in the Turkish dominions, 
 and though a strong bigot to the Mahometan faith, has a decided taste 
 for the habits, arts, and luxuries of civilized Europe. Dissipated to 
 excess, he is generous in his prodigality, though the indulgeace of his 
 inordinate passions often urges him on to acts of the most rapacious 
 injustice. He has a fine person, aided by the most engaging man- 
 ners, with much natural sagacity and good sense : nor is he devoid of 
 courage, or uninfluenced by the love of military glory. In hs political 
 career he has devoted himself constantly to the interests of his lawful 
 sovereign, and probably there does not exist a more attached and 
 faithful subject of the Porte. When he held the government of the 
 Morea, be received a proposal from the inhabitants of the iourishing 
 isles of Hydra Spezie and Poros, to place themselves under his pro- 
 tection, and pay the tribute to him instead of the Capudan Pasha. His 
 father Ali would have gladly accepted such an offer, and fought with 
 the Capudan Pasha for his possession; but Vely, in a courteous and 
 conciliatory manner declined it, and recommended the islanders to re- 
 main peaceable and submissive to lawful authority. Vely aspires to 
 the highest posts in the empire, but the Porte hitherto has not thought 
 proper to indulge him in his wishes; it prefers keeping h.m in the 
 
 f f 2 
 
220 VIEWS REGARDING HIS SUCCESSOR. 
 
 vicinity of his father, since there is no doubt but that the Sultan would 
 support him in his attempt to succeed Ali in his dominion, in order, 
 by his means, to recover those provinces which are now in some mea- 
 sure disjointed from the Ottoman empire. In that event Vely would 
 abandon all those foreign relations which are courted by his father, 
 and wou 1 -! own implicit allegiance to the Sultan : on this account 
 there is a large party of Osmanli Turks who favour his pretensions, 
 and exult secretly in the hope of recovering that power which they used 
 formerly to exercise over their Christian slaves. 
 
 Salee Bey, the vizir's youngest son, whom he himself evidently 
 designs for his successor, is now about twenty-one years of age, the 
 son of a Circassian slave. When we were introduced to him at his 
 residence in the fortress of Argyro-Castro, he appeared to be a youth 
 of good understanding and amiable disposition, but his character was 
 not then developed : it is said that he possesses most of his father's 
 good qualities and some of his vices. He has a fair complexion, with 
 a pleasing countenance, very much resembling that of Ali in his 
 youthful days. Those who are best acquainted with the vizir's cha- 
 racter and sentiments are decided in their opinion that he intends 
 Salee Bey for his successor, and that if he lives five years longer he 
 will ensure the accomplishment of this design. It is supposed that 
 the great fortress of Argyro-Castro was built on purpose to give him 
 that strong hold as a residence amidst his father's faithful clan, and an 
 opportunity of rendering himself his successor in their affections: the 
 mode of his education, which, whilst it improved his mind, hardened 
 his constitution, tended to qualify him for this undertaking. His food 
 was plain, and his exercise regular; he was obliged even to carry 
 bricks and stones, and submit to the same labour as the common work- 
 men, in the construction of the fortifications, whilst his tutors and the 
 governor were enjoined to exact the most implicit deference to their 
 commands. For several years past all the landed property purchased 
 by Ali has been registered in the name of Salee Bey, whilst his im- 
 
VIEWS REGARDING HIS SUCCESSOR. 
 
 221 
 
 inense stock of jewels and the contents of his treasuries are all in- 
 tended to support this son's pretensions after his own decease. With 
 this view also he has put to death so many pashas and beys, and 
 endeavoured to exterminate all those independent Albanian chiefs 
 whose struggles to regain their power might interfere with the in- 
 terests of his heir. If he lives much longer, the whole race will be 
 extinct. As they are nearly all Mahometans, the indignation of the 
 Turks against Ali is far greater than that of any other class amongst 
 his subjects, and they would gladly join any power that would give 
 them assistance in throwing off his yoke. 
 
 The Ottoman Porte, which has been long convinced of his insi- 
 dious designs and treacherous system, and has long lamented its own 
 blindness, inactivity, and temporizing policy, would gladly hurl him from 
 that pinnacle of power to which his vices and his valour have raised 
 him : but this is now impossible ; the old eagle is too strong upon his 
 pinions for the Porte to curb his flight, and the mountain barriers of 
 Epirus, defended by their Albanian palikars, are not to be scaled by a 
 set of Turkish janissaries. No man knows better than Ali this decre- 
 pitude and imbecility of the Ottoman empire, the want of prompt 
 decision in its councils and of communication with its provinces, the 
 relaxation of that military system which once kept the world in awe, 
 the rapacity of its officers, the dissatisfaction of its subjects, the dimi- 
 nution of its population, and every other sign of a state tottering upon 
 the very brink of destruction : it is said that he entertains serious ideas 
 of throwing off that nominal allegiance to the Porte which he has 
 hitherto professed, and of assuming the title, as he has long assumed the 
 authority, of an independent sovereign. In the mean time the follow- 
 ing anecdote, which is extracted from a letter dated Constantinople, 
 April, 1820, and inserted in the Star, will shew with what audacity he 
 dares insult his sovereign, and beard the lion in his very den : 
 
 " An affair has just occurred here which has caused a great deal of 
 noise. Two Albanians, on horseback, rode briskly up to the door 
 
222 VIEWS REGARDING HIS SUCCESSOR, 
 
 of the Grand Signer's chamberlain, Pashow Bey, and on the 
 chamberlain's looking out at his window to know what they want- 
 ed, they both fired their pistols at him. The balls whizzed past the 
 bey's head, fortunately without touching him. The assassins in- 
 stantly scampered off at full gallop by the road to Adrianople. A 
 well-mounted party was in a few minutes in pursuit of them, and at 
 a village about sixty miles off they came up with one of the fugitives, 
 whom they seized and brought back to Constantinople; the other 
 effected his escape. The Albanian in custody refused at first to say 
 a word in explanation of the extraordinary and daring adventure in 
 which he had been engaged, but, on being put to the rack, he con- 
 fessed, what was generally believed to be the case, that he and his 
 companion had been hired by the famous Ali Pasha to murder Pashow 
 Bey. 
 
 " The fact, I understand, is, that this is only one of many machi- 
 nations on the part of Ali Pasha to take away the life of the cham- 
 berlain, against whom he appears to have conceived an unextinguish- 
 able hatred. The history of Pashow Bey, for years past, has been 
 nothing but a narrative of hair-breadth escapes from the vengeance of 
 his persecutor. At one time, by means of bribery and intrigue, Ali 
 Pasha contrived to procure a sentence of death from the Porte against 
 him, to escape which Pashow Bey fled into Egypt, from the viceroy 
 of which he received protection. 
 
 " While residing at Alexandria, some Albanian mariners called on 
 him, and solicited his advice, as a countryman, as to the disposal 
 of some goods which they said they had just brought into the harbour, 
 and which they wished him to go on board their small bark to inspect. 
 Pashow had learnt by this time the danger of being too confiding ; he 
 sent a person to make a private survey of the Albanian vessel, who re- 
 ported that, instead of being laden with goods, she was all in sailing 
 trim, ready to start at a moment's notice. Pashow, of course, declined 
 the friendly invitation of his countrymen, who, finding themselves 
 
VIEWS REGARDING HIS SUCCESSOR. 223 
 
 baulked in their too obvious design, left the port with all possible ex- 
 pedition. The circumstance coming to the ear of the viceroy so 
 strengthened the interest which he had taken in Pashow Bey, that he 
 applied in his behalf to the Grand Signor, from whom he obtained a 
 revocation of the sentence of death, and permission to Pashow to re- 
 turn to Constantinople, where he has since resided. 
 
 " The Sultan, I am told, was so incensed at this last audacious at- 
 tempt of Ali Pasha's that he had determined to visit him with his 
 utmost displeasure ; but he has since adopted a more cautious but per- 
 haps as severe a policy. He has appointed new governors to a num- 
 ber of military posts, particularly of the principal passes into Albania, 
 which have been hitherto allowed to be held by persons of Ali's ap- 
 pointment. This is supposed to be a great step towards the ultimate 
 downfal of this formidable partisan. His agents have been also sent 
 away from the capital, and all property of Ali's in their hands has been 
 seized." 
 
 The Sultan has acted wisely in adopting the more cautious line of 
 policy. It is perhaps practicable for him to dispossess Ali Pasha of 
 those governments which he holds, by means of subordinate agents, on 
 the eastern side of Pindus: but an attempt to eject him from Epirus, 
 would probably have no other result than to show the real weak- 
 ness of the Ottoman government and to hasten its downfal. Even the 
 governors who shall be appointed to the Thessalian or Macedonian dis- 
 tricts taken from Ali must hold them at his discretion, for no force 
 which they, or even the Porte can establish, will prevent him from 
 thundering down upon their plains from his mountain holds, wasting 
 their territories, burning their cities, and carrying off their persons to 
 imprisonment or death. The gradual and natural decay of Ali's 
 powers seems to be the only remedy which the Porte can now con- 
 template for those evils to which its unguarded policy gave rise : this 
 decay indeed has been for some time past perceptible, and though the 
 faculties of his mind are still in full vigour, his corporeal strength is 
 
224 VIEWS REGARDING HIS SUCCESSOR. 
 
 daily yielding before the attacks of an incurable disease : so that before 
 these memoirs meet the public eye, there is an equal chance, whether 
 he be seated on a throne, or the tenant of a tomb. 
 
 Such is the present state of Ali Pasha, his sons, his subjects, and his 
 government: probably by this time he finds, or if he lives much longer 
 he will find, that the elevated station to which his talents aided by his 
 crimes have raised him, is unable to secure for him so much happiness 
 as falls to the lot of an humble and contented peasant upon his wild 
 mountains; for if injustice is ever visited with punishment, or crimes 
 made their own ministers of vengeance in this world, it is when the in- 
 firmities of age creep slowly on a tyrant, when activity and bustle are 
 no longer suited to his strength, and his habitual restlessness cannot be 
 appeased ; when a sense of approaching death excites a certain indescrib- 
 able fear of retribution, and conscience holds a mirror to his view where- 
 in every action is reflected which was instigated by the selfish and male- 
 volent passions. 
 

 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 t '„ ' P °^ uevdk ~ His Opinion respecting Parga-Visit to 
 Mouchtar Pasha-Adventure of a Robber- Accident at Signore Ni- 
 colos House-Superstitions of Mustafa-Old Tatar sets out on his 
 Pilgrimage to Mecca-Spring at Ioannina- Appearance of Hawks 
 and Storks-Excursion to the North of Albania-Zitza-Fall of the 
 Kalamas or Thyamis-Tzarovina-Vizir's Powder-Mills-Delvinaki- 
 Misery of its Inhabitants-Inscription upon a Church-Violent Conduct 
 of Mustafh-Valley of Deropuli-Refections thereon-Palaia-Epis- 
 copi-Snuff Manufactory-Libochobo-Remains of Adrianopolis- Ap- 
 pearance of Argyro-Castro-Albanian Soldiers-Captain Gianko- 
 CriesoJ Women for the Dead-Description of Argyro-Castro-Inspec- 
 hon of the Fortress-Visit to Salee Bey the Vizirs youngest Son-The 
 ^fortunate Demetrio Anastasi-Statistical Paper sent by the Bishop 
 of Argyro-Castro— Mistake of the Author respecting the Bearer. 
 
 u A ^ CH 5th '~ This m °mi»g we received an invitation to dinner 
 with Mons. Pouqueville, at which time we learned all the particular, 
 
 VOL. rT 
 
 II. 
 
 G G 
 
526 "V' ISIT T0 MOUCHTAR PASHA. 
 
 of Ali's attack and massacre at Aja, as well as his defeat by the valiant 
 and patriotic Parghiotes. Our conversation to-day turned chiefly 
 upon this event, and the consequences that might be expected to 
 ensue from it. It is not very consoling now to reflect upon the sen- 
 timents of the French consul upon this subject. He seemed fully 
 aware that Parga would eventually change French for British protec- 
 tion, but he exulted in the prospect of its fate, and paid those compli- 
 ments to our national faith which are particularly gratifying from the 
 acknowledgment of a generous enemy. I recollect the almost enthu- 
 siastic fondness which he expressed for the character of the Parghiotes, 
 with which his frequent residence amongst them had made him well 
 acquainted ; a character which we invariably found acknowledged by 
 all who had similar opportunities of observing it, and which our own 
 sojourn upon their rock tended strongly to confirm. And for whom 
 did British authorities think proper to expatriate this interesting people, 
 and to rivet the fetters of Greece! 
 
 Next day we called upon Mouchtar Pasha at his serai. He received 
 us with civility, and confirmed the intelligence of the capture of Aja, 
 though he studiously concealed the defeat before Parga. The mention 
 of these events turned the conversation to his own exploits at the 
 attack of Prevesa, where he headed the charge of Albanian cavalry, 
 and drove in the out-posts. Like the generality of these warriors he 
 boasted much of his own valour, and expressed a contemptuous opi- 
 nion of the French which they little deserved : had they possessed a 
 single troop of cavalry, probably Mouchtar would not have lived to 
 tell the tale ; nor would Prevesa have fallen so easy a prey, had the 
 French troops been properly supported. As we sat smoking our pipes 
 in social converse, a secretary of the pasha's came to inform him that 
 a desperate leader of banditti, who had long infested the forests of 
 Acarnania, had voluntarily surrendered himself, and desired to make 
 the adoration (^0**™^) upon condition of receiving pardon and em- 
 ployment. In this ceremony the criminal prostrates himself before 
 
 2 
 
ACCIDENT AT SIGNORE NICOLO'S HOUSE. 357 
 
 the chief and kisses the hem of his garment, after which his life is safe 
 whatever may have been the crimes he has committed. Mouchtar 
 admitted the man to this expiatory rite, but in so doing he incurred 
 the displeasure of his father, whose vengeance was implacable against 
 this individual, who had committed the most atrocious excesses and 
 long eluded all attempts to take him. To give up the pleasure of 
 revenge is not compatible with Ali's nature ; whilst, on the other hand, 
 to violate the customs of his country and destroy all confidence be- 
 tween himself and his old companions the kleftes was thought adverse 
 to good policy. In this dilemma therefore he released the man, and 
 gave him safe conduct to the haunts of his associates, determining to 
 wait patiently until chance or a diligent police should again bring the 
 culprit into his grasp. 
 
 Having left Mouchtar we paid a visit to young Mahmet Pasha, 
 with whose conversation, as at all other times, we were highly in- 
 terested, and then returned home to be witnesses of a catastrophe 
 which had nearly laid all Ioannina in ashes. On this day we had in- 
 vited a party of natives to dinner, and Antonietti, that he might 
 do honour to us and give satisfaction to our guests by his skill in 
 cookery, had lighted a fire to which the vizir's kitchen itself could 
 scarcely have afforded a parallel : but the houses in this country are 
 not built to stand fire ; indeed, so seldom is a Grecian hearth iliumi- 
 nated by any thing like a blaze, that the architect takes no precaution 
 to secure the beam ends of the upper story which may jut into the 
 chimney. Such was the case in the present instance; a large dry 
 beam coming into contact with Antonietti's flame, took fire, and the 
 smoke soon ascended through the roof: luckily this was formed of pan- 
 tiles instead of thatch, or the next messenger dispatched to the vizir 
 might have told him ' half his Troy was burnt :' for as more than one 
 half the house, in all instances, is constructed of wood, whilst the 
 modern invention of a water-engine has not yet found its way to Ioan- 
 nina, and moreover, as a high wind finely calculated to spread a con- 
 
 g g 2 
 
228 SUPERSTITIONS OP MUSTAFA. 
 
 flagration was then blowing, Antonietti very narrowly escaped gaining 
 a niche in the Temple of Fame by the side of Erostratus. On our arrival 
 we found every body and every thing in confusion ; but Signore Nicolo 
 alarmed not less for his head than for his house, mounted the roof with 
 uncommon agility, and acted the part of fireman : tearing off some 
 dozens of the tiles, and exposing the enemy to view, he cooled his 
 courage by the application of successive buckets of water, which we 
 handed up to him, and Ioannina was saved : but the dinner was 
 spoiled ; and our guests were taught to sympathise with the Horatian 
 party in their misfortune at Beneventum. 
 
 Ubi sedulus hospes, 
 Paene arsit macros dum turdos versat in igne. 
 
 This however was not the only misfortune we experienced : the 
 French consul, having understood that we gave an entertainment, 
 kindly sent some sausages to garnish a turkey : these having been 
 saved from the wreck, were amongst the articles dressed for dinner, 
 none of the party recollecting that pork was a principal ingredient in 
 their composition : but Mustafa was too good a Mussulman to forget 
 it, and no sooner did his olfactory nerves give him notice that this 
 infernal viand was to compose a part of our feast, than he consigned 
 us all over to perdition, and with every mark of horror and disgust 
 pictured in his countenance, packed up his goods and retreated to 
 his little den within the castron. At the expiration of two days, when 
 he thought the house was tolerably purified, he re-appeared, but 
 refused to break bread With us until Demetrio had washed every dish 
 and platter in his presence, and we assured him that no more of this 
 abomination should come under our roof. Mr. Parker indeed con- 
 trived to persuade him that he had not partaken of the sausages, and 
 by that means gained a step over me in his affections which I was 
 never able to recover : as for Antonietti, who cooked the trash, he 
 looked upon him with infinitely greater abhorrence than if he had 
 
OLD TATAR SETS OUT ON HIS PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA. 229 
 
 roasted a Christian, nor could he ever after hear the name of M. Pou- 
 queville mentioned with any degree of patience. This was not the 
 only time when we were amused by the superstitious peculiarities of 
 poor Mustafil. One day as he was putting in order a houka for Mr. 
 Parker he happened to break the glass vase : for this he took not the 
 least blame to himself, but ascribed all the fault to a Greek gentleman 
 who had left the room ten minutes before, and whom he had observed 
 to look at it with an evil eye (kxko ^a-i-i) : he said he was well aware that 
 some mischief would befal him, and was glad it was no worse ; for in 
 going to the bath the day preceding he had broken the ribbon which 
 fastened his amulet round his neck, and was thus left defenceless against 
 the glances of every wicked eye that might be cast upon him. The 
 fear of this eye-battery is equally prevalent amongst the Greeks, many 
 of whom are struck with horror if a stranger praises any article of their 
 property, or one of their children, for its beauty; they generally observe 
 the ancient method of averting this evil by spitting upon the admired 
 object, or into their own bosom. 
 
 On the morning after this conflagration scene we were awoke early 
 from sleep by a violent outcry in the street, which we found to pro- 
 ceed from a long procession that was convoying the vizir's favourite 
 tatar, named Delhi Yachj^ Aga, out of the precincts of the town on 
 his road to Mecca, where he was going to be made a hadjee, or " holy 
 man/' He was accompanied on this occasion by all the different trades 
 of the city with silken banners flying, and the college of dervishes 
 carrying axes and halberts ; these were preceded by a chorus of young 
 men singing hymns in a fine sonorous strain, relieved at intervals by a 
 band of music : his horse, magnificently caparisoned, was led by two 
 tatars, his ataghan and pistols being tied to the saddle, whilst a large 
 body of the tatarian fraternity in their picturesque attire closed up the 
 rear. When he arrived at the outside of the town, near the plain of 
 Bonila, he took an affectionate leave of his relations and friends, each 
 of whom he kissed upon the cheek, then mounted his steed, and de- 
 
MO APPEARANCE OF HAWKS AND STORKS. 
 
 parted on the road to Prevesa, where a ship was waiting in which he 
 intended to embark for Alexandria. This man was very celebrated 
 and highly valued by his master for the astonishing journeys which he 
 had performed in his service : he had the faculty of sleeping on horse- 
 back, which enabled him to make the greatest possible dispatch, since 
 he never stopped longer than was necessary to take the refreshment of 
 food. He was now sixty years old, and so anxious to make this grand 
 composition for sin, and secure a safe entrance through the gate of Para- 
 dise, that no entreaties of friends, not even those of Ali himself, could 
 divert him from his pilgrimage. 
 
 It was near the end of March before the germs of vegetation began 
 to appear and serenity was restored to the atmosphere. The first har- 
 bingers of spring at Ioannina are innumerable flights of small hawks, 
 extremely beautiful in appearance, of a lighter colour, but about equal 
 in size to the common sparrow-hawk : they come in such numbers that 
 they may be seen upon every tree and every house of the city : no 
 doubt this bird is sent by Providence for some useful purpose like its 
 immediate successor the stork, which is called by way of eminence, the 
 bird of Mahomet, and held so sacred in many parts of Turkey, that he 
 who kills one is subjected to the severest penalties : this is not indeed 
 the case at Ioannina, though even here its murderer is looked upon with 
 an evil eye. Nothing can add more to the picturesque appearance of 
 Turkish cities than the frequent occurrence of this majestic bird 
 either standing upon a mosque with all the solemnity of an irnaun, or 
 seated like a moralist amidst the ruins of antiquity. The veneration 
 paid to the stork however proceeds not so much from its appearance as 
 its utility ; it is furnished by nature with that long formidable bill for 
 the destruction of serpents and other reptiles with which the country 
 abounds. I have seen many desperate struggles in the air between 
 these implacable combatants. 
 
 The weather now appearing settled and the snow partially dissolved, 
 we became anxious to seize the earliest opportunity of making an ex- 
 
EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF ALBANIA. 23 \ 
 
 cursion into Albania for the purpose of viewing its noble scenery and be- 
 coming better acquainted with its singular inhabitants. Our first inten- 
 tion was to have visited the monasteries of Meteora on the eastern side 
 of Pindus, from which we were diverted by the earnest representations 
 of Mouchtar Pasha, who gave us a lamentable account of the ravages 
 made in that district by the plague. But the North or Upper Alba- 
 nia lay open to our researches, and its banditti being dispersed from 
 all the provinces subjected to the vizir's authority, every possible faci- 
 lity and accommodation was offered to the traveller. 
 
 On the 28th of March therefore at noon, one fortnight before the 
 festival of Easter, we commenced our expedition, attended by Signore 
 Nicolo, Antonietti, Demetrio, four suradgees,. and Mustafa, armed 
 with the plenipotential powers of his bouyourdee. In our first day's 
 journey we advanced no further than to Zitza, which is four hours north- 
 west of Ioannina, situated upon some turfy knolls so as to command a 
 fine view of that mountainous region through which the Thyamis flows 
 into the Thesprotian plains ; those plains wherein it once imparted 
 verdure and luxuriance to the groves of platani that sheltered the Amal- 
 theunv*. To their umbrageous shade the munificent Atticus retired a 
 voluntary exile from the calamities of his country : there he endea- 
 voured to forget his sorrows in the exercise of generous hospitality, 
 in philosophical studies, and rural amusements, amidst scenery whose 
 soft features were so congenial to the amenity of his own disposition. 
 At the entrance of the village we passed a monastery on our left hand, 
 situated in a tuft of fine trees upon a lovely eminence, and on the right 
 a small serai belonging to the vizir, to which a granary is attached for 
 containing the produce of his chiflick : throughout the whole of our 
 route we constantly observed similar mementos of tyrannic power. 
 Zitza contains about 150 houses, with four Greek churches : it is cele- 
 
 Cave putes Attici nostri AmaltHeo, platanisque illis quidquam esse praeclarius. 
 
 Cic. Proem, lib. ii. de Leg, 
 
8S2 FALL OF THE KALAMAS.. OR THY AMIS. 
 
 brated for a very excellent and fragrant species of white wine, made 
 from grapes which have been exposed for about three days to the sun. 
 and which has a peculiar flavour from the absynthus employed in its 
 preparation. We procured from the convent a copious supply of this 
 nectar, in which Signore Nicolo indulged his genius so freely as to 
 bring on certain symptoms of an incipient fever, which, in the course 
 of a few days, prevented our having the benefit of his company during 
 the rest of this excursion. Next morning we resumed our journey 
 through an undulating tract of country covered with vineyards : at one 
 hour's distance from Zitza we passed a beautiful cascade on the left 
 hand, called the fall of Glizani, where the river Thyamis rolls over a 
 rock about fifty feet in height and thirty in breadth, adorned on one 
 side by a fine wooded knoll, and on the other by a picturesque water- 
 mill : the sun was shining brilliantly and a fine iris playing over the 
 spray. The scenery down the valley of the Thyamis would probably 
 afford ample gratification to the lovers of the picturesque : our route 
 lay upwards in a more northerly direction, which brought us in about 
 four hours to the lake of Tzarovina, which is said to be unfathomable, and 
 seems as if it filled up the vacuum of an exhausted crater; its great depth 
 gives a deep azure to the transparent water, whose gloom is increased 
 by some trees and shrubs which bathe their branches in its margin. 
 Tzarovina is the place which Ali Pasha first occupied in his advances 
 against Ioinnina, and here he has built a small serai and fortress, which 
 is mounted by a few cannon : below the lake, near the channel of the 
 Thyamis, his largest powder-mills are situated; but the article is 
 wretchedl/ manufactured. Advancing about one hour further we 
 turned suddenly to the right, up a very precipitous and magnificent glen, 
 down which a small river flows into the Kalamas ; at this point of the 
 road we net a company of Albanian soldiers escorting several French 
 and ItaliaL prisoners who had been taken in league with some brigands 
 in Northern Albania. Antonietti entered into conversation with his 
 countrymen, who did not much enjoy the prospect of an interview with 
 
 1 
 
DELVINAKI— MISERY OF ITS INHABITANTS. 333 
 
 the dreaded chieftain : as we did not hear of any punishment being in- 
 flicted upon these rogues, it is very probable that he received them into 
 his service. After proceeding about a quarter of a mile up the valley, we 
 crossed it and ascended a steep hill towards the town of Delvinaki. 
 Here we met a number of women returning from the toils of agriculture 
 with hoes, spades, and other implements of husbandry in their hands: 
 one poor creature had two infants tied in a kind of bag over her 
 shoulders. Almost all the cultivation of the ground in this district is 
 left to women, whilst the men are absent during greatest part of the 
 year at Constantinople, Adrianople, Saloniki, and other large cities, 
 where they carry on the trades of butchers and bakers. Many of these 
 sun-burnt daughters of labour had very fine features, the place being 
 noted for the beauty of its women : some of them accosted us with 
 great frankness and were very inquisitive as to the objects of our 
 journey, and the place from whence we came. 
 
 At the top of the hill we burst suddenly upon the town of Delvinaki, 
 seated in a large circular coilon, around which nothing but bleak and 
 barren rocks appear. It contains four churches and about 350 houses, 
 built for the most part in a style of neatness and comfort : but at least 
 a hundred were at this time uninhabited, owing to the cruel exactions 
 of Ali Pasha. He has long been desirous of converting the place into 
 one of his detestable chiflicks, but has been constantly opposed in his 
 endeavours by the inhabitants, who are equally desirous of retaining 
 their independence : to subdue this spirit he has had recourse to the 
 most oppressive avanias, and the most odious impositions, quartering 
 several thousands of his Albanian troops for six months together upon 
 the unfortunate district, and removing them only to introduce a fresh 
 set and subject the inhabitants to greater misery. No resolution can 
 withstand a force like this; and probably long before this time the 
 miserable Delvinaki has sunk into insignificance. Its site has been 
 by some mistaken for Niceeum, and for Omphalium by others who 
 have been misled by its umbilical appearance; but after a diligent 
 
 VOL. II. H H 
 
234 VIOLENT CONDUCT OF MUSTAFA. 
 
 investigation we could not discover a single trace of antiquity upon 
 the spot. The only inscription we observed was one in modern Greek, 
 carved upon the entrance of a new church and signifying that this 
 sacred edifice had been erected in the year 1812, at the expense of the 
 primates, in the reign of the high and mighty Ali Pasha. 
 
 At Delvinaki two principal roads branch off, one towards Delvino and 
 Butrinto, in the direction of Corfu ; the other towards the great plain of 
 Argyro-Castro and the north of Albania. We took this latter, and 
 enjoyed a superb prospect when we arrived at the highest point above 
 Delvinaki, where the eye is carried down the vast chasm that we had 
 passed the day before, and from thence over the extensive mountain 
 6cenery of the Kalamas. After passing through a wild rugged country 
 for one hour and a half north-west, we arrived at the han of Xero- 
 Valto, or the dried marsh, where the process of drainage lias been 
 carried on to a considerable extent, and a large quantity of very pro- 
 ductive land brought into a state of cultivation. Near this place I had 
 a serious altercation with our kaivasi Mustafa. He had just discovered 
 that a Greek lad by whom he was attended on the journey, had lost a 
 small parcel containing a shawl which had been committed to his 
 custody. Irritated at this accident he drew his ataghan and beat the 
 poor fellow most unmercifully about the head and shoulders with the 
 back part of it : this passed over, but in a short time the Turk's rage 
 suddenly broke out afresh like a smothered flame; he began to repeat 
 the castigation with double fury upon the unfortunate offender, and 
 would probably have soon proceeded to use the edge of his scymitar, 
 had I not thought proper to interfere; but it was only by a threat of 
 complaining to the vizir that he could be persuaded to remit his indig- 
 nation. 
 
 Soon after this affair we entered into the magnificent and spacious 
 valley of Deropuli, on the western side of which stands the large city 
 of Argyro-Castro. This plain, as enchanting as any which Arcadia itself 
 can boast, is watered by the river Druno, commonly mistaken for the 
 
 1 
 
VA.LLEY OF DEROPULI. v 35 
 
 Celydnus of antiquity : it extends in length more than thirty miles, 
 and varies from four to six in breadth . it is inhabited by a population 
 probably of 80,000 souls; near a hundred towns and villages may be 
 enumerated, which are seen partly studding the sides of its huge 
 mountain barriers that rise above them in Alpine grandeur, partly hid 
 within their sinuous recesses, or embosomed in thick foliage: flocks of 
 sheep and large Epirotic herds range through the green pastures, and nu- 
 merous goats browse upon the lofty precipices. A degree of animation is 
 thus communicated to the solemn and impressive features of nature 
 that is perfectly delightful; nor can I recal to mind a view which 
 unites so much of the pleasing with the grand. In contemplating this 
 scene imagination could not help picturing to itself the still more bril- 
 liant colours it may assume when the golden wings of Liberty shall be 
 spread over its soil, when wisdom and justice shall direct the energies, 
 restrain the vices, and encourage the emulation of its inhabitants : 
 when industry shall lead into this terrestrial paradise the sister arts, 
 teaching the transparent stream to fertilize every corner which is now 
 deserted, mingle the various hues of every opening flower, spread the 
 umbrageous grove along the plain, and cover the huge sides of every 
 hill with foliage : when architecture shall distribute all around its elegant 
 appendages of decoration, in the splendid dome, the lofty tower, and 
 the columnated portico, scenes adapted to philosophical meditation 
 or scientific research; and above all, when true religion shall once more 
 raise her awful head amidst these shades, diffusing moral happiness 
 amongst the people, recalling them from their long slumber of ignor- 
 ance and barbarism, and animating their hearts to adore the Author 
 of all good! 
 
 No district in Albania is half so populous as this, though the 
 miserable tenure of the land, which is chiefly that of the chiflick, 
 tends greatly to diminish its inhabitants. The principal articles 
 of produce are corn, rice, and tobacco, besides vast flocks of sheep 
 and goats, which are seen scattered over the mountains. We re-* 
 
 h h 2 
 
236 PALAIA-EPISCOPI-REMAINS OF ADRIANOPOLIS. 
 
 mained for about an hour at the beautiful village of Palaia-Epis- 
 copi, which is intersected by many transparent rills flowing from the 
 upper parts of the mountain Mertzika, which turn the wheels of a 
 number of water-mills, where the best snuff in ail Albania is manu- 
 factured. A few miles beyond Episcopi we descended into the vale, 
 and soon afterwards crossed the river nearly opposite the large scat- 
 tered town of Libochobo, lying upon a steep acclivity of Mertzika, 
 ans near a vast chasm in that mountain chain, through which a tor- 
 rent pours its tribute into the Druno. This town, with its territory, is a 
 chiflick belonging to Shainitza, the sanguinary sister of the Albanian 
 tyrant, and at this time she occupied a large seraglio which had been 
 constructed for her by the vizir. On the western side of the valley, 
 nearly opposite Libochobo, and at no great distance from the river, 
 Signore Nicolo pointed out the ruins of a small Roman theatre with a 
 few vestiges of other ancient foundations, upon a spot which he desig- 
 nated by the name of Drinopolis, an evident corruption of Hadriano- 
 polis, which in very early ages was called Phanote, and in later times 
 of the Eastern Empire Justinianopolis*. Argyro-Castro has suc- 
 ceeded to its consequence, though not to its site, upon which it is erro- 
 neously placed in the maps. In a little more than one hour Ave ar- 
 rived under that city, whose unequal rocky acclivities, intersected by 
 deep chasms and dividing it into several distinct partitions, give it a 
 truly grand and imposing aspect. The houses, which are generally 
 good, and belong chiefly to Turkish proprietors, are not contiguous, 
 but stand in various positions, some on commanding eminences, 
 others beneath projecting crags, many on the ridges of precipices, 
 but the greatest part upon the flat surfaces of rock, between its deep 
 ravines : the whole appearance is singularly striking, and its fine effect 
 is augmented not only by the minarets of its mosques, but by the 
 
 * 7 0u Sri nat ffoXic dvrif (sc. Justiniano) ntiroirjTai lu^iviayuiToXtc, ^ nporepov ' A%piav(nro\i£ ko\»- 
 idvii' Procop. de /ixiif. !. iv. c. 1. 
 
ALBANIAN SOLDIERS— CAPTAIN GIANKO. 237 
 
 grand fortress of Ali Pasha, which was at this time nearly completed, 
 upon a much larger scale than has ever been adopted in this country 
 for works of a similar description. At about five o'clock in the after- 
 noon we entered this city and obtained excellent lodgings in a house 
 belonging to a friend of Signore Nicolo. 
 
 After dinner we took a walk into the city, accompanied by a 
 fine youth, the son of our host : our appearance attracted great 
 notice and curiosity from the inhabitants. Many Albanian guards 
 came up and entered into familiar converse with us, but there was no- 
 thing uncivil or impertinent in their address, and they very freely 
 communicated all they knew respecting the works going forward, 
 the views of the vizir, his wars with the Argyro-Castrites, and their 
 subsequent capitulation. Amongst these troops it was difficult to 
 distinguish the officers from the privates, by dress, by style of con- 
 versation, or by any assumption of superiority. A captain of artillery, 
 named Gianko, was extremely civil, and accompanied us during the 
 whole of our walk. This man stood high in the confidence of Ali 
 Pasha, and was present with him at the massacre of the Gardiki- 
 otes, where he led on the first body of troops to fire into the court of 
 the Han. In the minute circumstantial account which he gave us of 
 that horrid catastrophe, he said not more than eighty persons were 
 selected by the vizir as objects of clemency, whom he spared. During 
 our excursion we heard many doleful cries and loud lamentations, pro- 
 ceeding from several houses : we inquired the reason of this circumstance 
 from our guides, who informed us that the women were still wailing for 
 their husbands and sons who had fallen in battle against the vizir: now 
 many of these had been thus occupied at least seven years previous to the 
 time we heard them ; yet no one appeared surprised at the folly of this 
 observance. So powerful is the force of custom ! I remember listening 
 frequently at Ioannina to the cries of a matron who had lost her hus- 
 band seventeen years before in a Russian campaign, but had never 
 
"238 DESCRIPTION OF ARGYRO-CA8TRO. 
 
 omitted howling three times a day after she received the tidings of his 
 death*. 
 
 v<f>' tfiepov Jipae yooio. 
 
 The weather being extremely fine we never thought of abridging our 
 excursion, by which means we considerably fatigued ourselves in 
 making the circuit of this craggy city, standing, as it does, upon a 
 steep acclivity and occupying a very extended space sufficiently 
 large for double its population, which is not computed at more 
 than about 15,000 souls. The bazar is spacious, and appeared very 
 well supplied with articles of commerce. The inhabitants, before the 
 vizir's conquest, were the greatest merchants in this part of Albania, 
 and Argyro-Castro was a great dep6t for internal trade. AH con- 
 trived to seize the persons of many of these traffickers, who were 
 scattered about the country, and by this means facilitated greatly the 
 reduction of the place. The most picturesque parts of its site are the 
 chasms which intersect it, whose sides are lined with habitations beau- 
 tifully intermingled Avith trees, shrubs, and gardens : these situations 
 however, are exposed to great dangers from the mountain torrents, 
 which, after heavy rains, or the melting of snow, sometimes sweep 
 down with such a swell and impetuosity as to carry every thing 
 before them. About three years ago a terrible inundation of this 
 kind swept away more than sixty houses, with their inhabitants, in 
 the deep ravine which lies to the north of the castle, where the ruins 
 still attest the extent of the calamity. On our return home we found 
 that poor Nicolo, being unwell, had retired to bed. An officer also 
 
 * In a similar manner the wandering Ulysses seems to have been lamented by his faithful Penelope. 
 
 'Ec S' V7rtp<5' arnfiaaa avv dfi^moKoiai yvvaiQ., 
 KXaitv iirtir' 'Odvtrija &i\ov iroaiv, otypa 01 virvov 
 'H^vv t7ri (IXtfapoioi jSdXe yXavK<Jjri£ 'A^cjj. 
 
 Od. a. 362, 
 
INSPECTION OF THE FORTRESS. 339 
 
 had arrived from young Salee Bey to inquire after our health, and 
 offer his congratulations upon our arrival. 
 
 Next morning, after having sent a messenger to the young bey, to 
 apprize him of our visit and deliver a letter from his brother Mouchtar 
 Pasha, we set out to view the fortress. We were received at the great 
 entrance by our friend Gianko, and conducted into the apartment of 
 the governor Hassan Bey, an elderly man, who had accompanied the 
 vizir in most of his early campaigns : no greater mark of confidence 
 could have been placed in him by his sovereign than the command of 
 this fortress and the care of his favourite son and successor. The per- 
 son of this old chief was fine, though his apparel was coarse, and 
 even dirty ; he wore a little red skull-cap on his head, and a large 
 coarse cloak of goat's hair thrown over his shoulders : he treated us 
 with pipes and coffee, but spoke to us through the medium of an in- 
 terpreter, as he was unacquainted with any other but the Albanian 
 language. After remaining about half an hour in his little dirty 
 apartment, which was totally devoid not only of grandeur but even of 
 neatness and comfort, we departed, under escort of Gianko, to view 
 the fortifications, deferring our visit to Salee Bey for the present, that 
 wc might not interrupt him in his studies. The area of this castle is 
 extremely spacious, containing not only barracks for the accommoda- 
 tion of five thousand troops, but a very large seraglio and a mosque. 
 The magazines are subterranean and well calculated to secure not only 
 ammunition but provisions: the walls are of great thickness, though 
 in some places they display too much haste in their construction : sub- 
 terranean passages lead to all parts of the building, and water is 
 brought by an aqueduct, from the hills that back it on the west, over a 
 space of about six miles. In one apartment we were shewn a curi- 
 ous mill for grinding corn without either wind, water, steam or any 
 other power but that of clock-work : it requires to be wound up only 
 once in twenty-four hours, during which time the stone makes 42,000 
 
240 VISIT TO SALEE BEY. 
 
 turns and grinds 1400 ochas of flour : it is the invention of a poor Greek 
 artificer, who had worked with some Frenchmen at Taigan in the Cri- 
 mea. From the battlements of this castle we had a noble view of the 
 grand plain of Derc-puli, presenting an appearance of fertility and 
 animation that is wonderful in this country. Forty cannon only were 
 as yet mounted, but forty-five more were expected: that end of the 
 fortress which is turned towards the mountain was defended solely 
 by one large traversing gun at the south-west bastion; amongst others 
 we remarked several pieces of English and French ordnance, together 
 with about a dozen brass field-pieces standing on their carriages upon a 
 platform near the south-east corner. I observed to Captain Gianko 
 that the whole castle was commanded by a position on the south-west, 
 and he said it was in contemplation to secure that by the erection of a 
 strong outwork. If artillery could be brought to pla}' upon it from the 
 heights above, on the western side, it could not sustain a siege of two 
 hours: but whilst Turks only are the enemies to attack it, its deep ra- 
 vines are a sufficient defence against this danger. About 1500 pea- 
 sants were busily employed in various labours about this building, and 
 by a shamefully oppressive avania were allowed only rations of coarse 
 calamboci bread, by way of remuneration : and this for the forgery of 
 their own fetters! 
 
 After having minutely inspected the works, we adjourned to a small 
 house adjoining the serai, for the purpose of paying our respects to 
 Salee Bey, whom we found seated on the divan in company with his 
 tutor. He received the respectful obeisance of our attendants with a 
 dignity that would have surprised us, if we had not known that lessons 
 in etiquette are among the first in which youth of high rank in 
 these countries are instructed : he appeared pleased to see us, and asked 
 many questions respecting his father and brother ; but we thought him 
 deficient both in manner and acquirements when compared with his 
 nephew little Mahmet Pasha, who is about his own age. Motioning 
 
VISIT TO SALEE BEY. 241 
 
 Nicolo to sit near him on the sofa, he questioned him, in a low tone of 
 voice, respecting a difference which he observed in Mr. Parker's dress 
 and mv own, as why he wore a sabre and I did not, why his pantaloons 
 were blue and mine white; but he desired his informant not to look at us, 
 lest we might think he was discoursing about us, which, he added, 
 would not be courteous towards strangers. The completion of this 
 youth was fair, his hair and eyes light, and his physiognomy bore a very 
 strong resemblance to that of his father ; he was considered docile, and 
 rather of a mild disposition, although 1 understand he has iince shewn 
 some traits of that vindictive spirit which distinguishes tie paternal 
 character. No pains appeared to be spared in his education ; he was not 
 only instructed in the Turkish, Albanian and Romaic languages, but 
 was daily trained in bodily exercises, whilst every oppoitunity was 
 taken to ingratiate him with the Albanian tribes that wee to be his 
 future subjects. At our departure he promised to send us letters to 
 various governors of cities that might lie in our route, as wdl as one to 
 his mother, resident at Tepeleni, who, he added, would be y roud to en- 
 tertain Englishmen as her guests. We then took our leave, when the 
 young bey arose and accompanied us to the door of his apartment, 
 wishing us a pleasant journey and every kind of prosperity. 
 
 In the evening an Albanian colonel, accompanied by ado:en guards, 
 brought the promised letters to our lodging : our friend Gianto also call- 
 ed, and two or three Greek gentlemen dropping in, we detained them 
 all to pipes and coffee and discussed the valour and politics of Ali Pasha 
 over a flowing bowl of punch made in Antonietti's best manier. 
 
 Next morning we intended to have resumed our journey, lut Signore 
 Nicolo complained so much of the state of his health, that ve thought 
 it right to remain another day in Argyro-Castro, to see what turn his 
 complaint might take. Early in the morning, being accompanied by 
 Demetrio, I ascended the mountainous steep behind the city with an in- 
 tention of gaining the summit; but we found this quite impracticable, 
 on account of so many deep chasms which presented themsdves in our 
 
 VOL. II. i i 
 
242 THE UNFORTUNATE DEMETRIO ATHANASI. 
 
 path. We returned therefore, after having enjoyed a view of the plain 
 which fully recompensed us for our trouble. About noon, Nicolo feeling 
 better, I walked out with him, and we paid a visit to poor Demetrio 
 Athanasi, whose fine house at Ioannina the reader may recollect was 
 seized by Ali for the sake of his nephew the Pasha of Ochrida. A small 
 miserable tenement was now the residence of this wretched family who 
 had been long accustomed to all the comforts and the luxuries of life. 
 Its master appeared gradually sinking under the attacks of a slow fever, 
 nor did any consolation or any medicine afford him relief. The cause 
 of this worthy man's exile and the confiscation of his property, when ex- 
 plained, is enough to make one shudder at the insufferable tyranny 
 under which he was doomed to breathe : it was a refusal to let one of 
 his beautiful children become a victim to the despot's lust within the 
 walls of his accursed harem ! 
 
 Soon after our return, a person was introduced who had brought, at 
 my request, a paper from the Bishop of Argyro-Castro, containing the 
 number of villages and inhabitants in the valley of theDruno. As I un- 
 derstood the bearer had taken the trouble to copy out this document 
 for my use, I presented him with a small pecuniary remuneration; this 
 he accepted with great good-nature, for I found afterwards, to my utter 
 confusion, that I had been feeing one of the most dignified canons of 
 the church. I had not made such a mistake since the time when I gave 
 a pair of English razors to the old dragoman at Tripolitza, who prided 
 himself upon the longest beard in the Morea, which steel had never 
 touched since it first sprouted from his chin and which he nourished 
 with more than parental attachment. Besides the statistical paper, 
 my friend the canon gave me a curious history of the settlement of 
 Argyro-Castro, or rather of Drinopolis, written in excellent Romaic, 
 which refers its foundation to Theseus King of Athens, and contains 
 numberless inconsistencies and absurdities. 
 
tand Fort of Schindru 
 
 i the Valley of Argyro-Caitm, 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure from Argyro-Castro-Fortress of Schindriada-Fountain of 
 Viroua— Visit to the Ruins of Gardiki—Han of Valia^—Road to 
 Tepeleni— Arrival there and Reception at the Grand S>rai— Hospi- 
 tality of the Sultana—Ibrahim the Albanian Governor—Description of 
 Tepeleni— Serai burnt down— Curious Anecdote of Ali Paiha connected 
 therewith— Excursion to Jarresi— Gardens of the Serai— Departure 
 from Tepeleni— Mad Dervish— Route to Ber at— Magnificent Scenery, 
 curious Dwelling- Houses and Manners of the People— Approach to 
 Berat up the Valley of the Apsus-Lodging in the Suburb tfGoritza- 
 Cunous Fashions of the Women-Visit to Hussein Bey-Old Usuff 
 Araps— Turkish Chargers— Ascent up the Acropolis-Buffaloes— 
 Ancient Isodomon in the Fortress-Historical Accounts-Great Plain 
 —Ah's Character in Berat— Extract from Mr. Jones's MS. Journal 
 relating to Apollonia, Delvino, Phcenike, $c. 
 
 i i 2 
 
244 FOUNTAIN OF VIROUA. 
 
 APRIL 2d.— Signore Nicolo being still indisposed, it was settled that 
 he should remain a few days at Argyro-Castro and then join us on our 
 return at Konitza, where he had a sister married and settled. Accord- 
 ly we set out this morning, without him, in a northerly direction alono- 
 the western side of the valley. We left at some distance on our right 
 the fortress of Schindriada crowning the summit of an eminence which 
 rises abruptly out of the plain. This was built by the vizir about nine 
 years before the surrender of Argyro-Castro, for the purpose not only 
 of annoying his enemies but protecting that line of country through 
 which he was obliged frequently to pass. In one hour and a half we 
 came to a deep fountain, close to the road, called Viroua, where the 
 water rises, as it were, out of a profound crater, curling at the surface 
 in broad eddies : it then flows precipitously over a steep rock and forms 
 at once a river : this I have endeavoured to represent in the vignette pre- 
 fixed to this chapter. In about half an hour more we turned suddenly to 
 the left, through an opening in the mountain barrier; the road was no 
 more than a fiumara, over which at this time a torrent from the melted 
 snow was flowing rapidly towards the plain, and made it sometimes very 
 difficult for our horses to keep their legs. The ruins of many villages both 
 on the right and left scathed by the destructive flames of war, testified the 
 cruel mode of warfare practised by the Albanian soldiery. We toiled for 
 more than an hour up this wild and rugged glen, when the mountains, sud- 
 denly takingoneachsideabold sweep, formed a perfect amphitheatre and 
 displayed to view the ruins of Gardiki spread over the sides and summit 
 of a conical hill which rises in the very centre of its vast area : high 
 above this fine circumference of hills appeared the huge summits of 
 Acroceraunia whose wintry snows, now melting, allowed the spiry fir 
 here and there to peep out from beneath its resplendent mantle : few 
 cities could boast of so superb a situation. At a little distance from 
 the foot of the hill we passed a large farm house which once served as 
 an outpost to the garrison: the doors and walls, pierced with ten thou- 
 sand bullets, testified the sharp conflicts it had lately sustained. In the 
 
VISIT TO THE RUINS OF GARDIKI. 345 
 
 plain beyond we observed a small village peopled by Suliots, who have 
 been congregated together in this spot by the pasha's orders; it is 
 thought he meditates to take some signal vengeance upon these unfor- 
 tunate victims when he has got as many as possible within his grasp. 
 
 Having crossed a deep ravine, which defended the city of Gardiki 
 towards the south and east, we ascended up its steep hill by the wind- 
 ing narrow path which but a short time before led All's troops to 
 victory. Upon a detached eminence on the right hand stood a small 
 citadel, whose ruined walls present nothing worthy of notice: after 
 inspecting them we entered at once into the mournful skeleton of 
 Gardiki, " a peopled city made a desert place," where no living 
 beings disturb the solitude, except serpents, owls, and bats. A chill- 
 ing kind of sensation, like the fascination of some deadly spell, be- 
 numbs the senses, and almost stops the respiration of the traveller, who 
 treads as it were, upon the prostrate corpse of a great city, just aban- 
 doned by the animating spirit. The feeling is far different from that 
 which he experiences amidst the fine ruins of antiquity, whose aspect, 
 mellowed down by time and unconnected with any terrible convul- 
 sion, inspires only pleasing melancholy, or animating reflections : but 
 here the frightful contrast of a recent and terrible overflow appals him; 
 his heart sickens at the sight; and whilst the deep silence is broken only 
 by the breeze which sighs around the ruins or amidst the funereal 
 cypresses which here and there wave over them, he almost expects to 
 meet a spectre at every step he takes. 
 
 Amidst these monuments of destruction we found our progress often 
 barred by vast heaps of ruins ; nor after an hour's ramble did we dis- 
 cover one habitation which had not suffered in the work of demolition; 
 even the tombs were razed to their foundations, and the very mosques 
 themselves had not escaped profanation ; so duly had the vengeance 
 of an implacable enemy been executed : one minaret alone peered out 
 amidst surrounding masses, to the top of which we ascended, that we 
 might contemplate the whole extent of this melancholy scene. From 
 
246 HAN OF VALIARE. 
 
 hence we observed a solitary dervish stealing gently from the covert of 
 some ruins at a distance. Probably the poor man had come, in spite 
 of Ali's dire anathema, to live and die amidst the relics of this once 
 populous city, to weep over the memory of former days, of friends de- 
 parted, and connexions broken. Yet the heart of him who has thus 
 rudely torn asunder all the bands of social life, glories in the dreadful 
 deed of vengeance, the memory of which, instead of festering like a 
 canker in his bosom, seems rather a source of joy and exultation. 
 
 In our return down the fiumara we marked with surprise the im- 
 mense quantity of sand and pebbles which a wintry torrent in these 
 mountainous countries will carry down into the plain, overwhelming 
 many acres of fine land at its mouth with the most unfruitful 
 materials. 
 
 d' infeconda arena 
 
 Sermna i prati e la campagne amene. 
 
 Opposite, in the plain, we observed the deserted han of Valiare, 
 whose walls enclose the mouldering bones of the murdered Gardikiotes. 
 The door is nailed up, over which an inscription openby testifies the 
 bloody deed, and gives warning that a similar punishment awaits the 
 wretch who shall dare to offer any dishonour to the family of Ali. 
 
 At about eleven miles from Argyro-Castro, and nine from Tepeleni, 
 the great plain contracts itself into a narrow valley, where a good 
 han appears, near a lofty bridge of a single arch, thrown across the 
 Druno. Soon afterwards this valley becomes a narrow defile, com- 
 pressing the bed of the river into a very narrow compass between its 
 parallel ridges of mountains. At the distance of a mile from Tepeleni 
 we passed that magnificent defile called anciently the Fauces Anti- 
 goneae, where Philip was attacked by the Consul Flaminius, and 
 where the rapid Voiussa, the iEas or Aous of antiquity*, receives the 
 
 Flumen Aous a quibusdam iEas appellatum. 
 
 Plin. N. H. lib. iii. o. 23. 
 
RECEPTION AT THE GRAND SERAI OF TEPELENI. 247 
 
 tributary stream of the Druno between the opposite heights of 
 Asnaus and iEropus: it flows from seven fountains on Mount Pindus, 
 beneath the town of Mezzovo, and passing near the cities of Konitza, 
 Ostanizza, Premeti, Klissura, and Tepeleni, falls into the Adriatic 
 below the ruins of Apollonia. 
 
 The shades of evening almost hid Tepeleni from the view as we enter- 
 ed the town, where we were received into the grand seraglio, and ac- 
 commodated with the best apartments : as soon as we were settled, the 
 Albanian governor entered to offer his congratulations upon our 
 arrival, bringing also those of the Sultana, with an intimation that her 
 ladies were preparing to send us a dinner from the harem. We re- 
 turned a proper acknowledgment of this unexpected favour, together 
 with a letter which we had brought from Salee Bey to his mother : 
 and to say the truth, nothing could exceed the civilities paid us during 
 our stay by this unseen benefactress : we learned however that female 
 curiosity prompted her to take a transient view of her guests, through 
 a latticed window, as they passed into the great court of the seraglio. 
 Our unexpected arrival obliged us to wait a considerable time for 
 dinner, which was announced by musical instruments and brought in 
 by a crowd of slaves and Albanian guards, who nearly filled the room, 
 and stood around the table during the time of our repast : Ibrahim, the 
 Albanian governor of the serai and town, dined with us, and paid due 
 respect to the dainties of the harem : he was an intelligent man, full of 
 conversation, and well acquainted with the early life of Ali, concern- 
 ing whom he amused us with many interesting anecdotes; for he remem- 
 bered the vizir when he had not where to lay his head. He spoke to 
 us also of his mother, whom he described as possessing all the martial 
 qualities of an Amazon, with the spirit of a Laconian matron: he ex- 
 tolled the good qualities of Salee Bey, and appeared as if he entered 
 into his master's projects respecting the future destiny of that youth. 
 Thus the evening passed very agreeably till bed-time, when a party of 
 slaves came into the room, bearing in their hands, and on their heads, 
 
248 DESCRIPTION OF TEPELENI. 
 
 silken mattresses, rich coverlets of embroidered velvet, pillows of the 
 same material, with a species of fine Constantinople gauze for sheets, 
 and all the apparatus of bed-furniture, fit for princes in magnificence : 
 ia-rriaxc xai tcix/ai* ir(io<r>c{^aAai«. These articles were spread out upon the 
 sofas of the divan*, and we retired to the comfort of sleep, which re- 
 quires not much wooing from those who have undergone the fatigues of 
 travelling in this country : not even the novelty of the scene or the rough- 
 ness of the sheets could long keep us awake. As soon however as we 
 were laid out it) state, the governor, with several other officers of the pa- 
 lace, came into the room under pretence of wishing us good night; but in 
 reality to satisfy their curiosity regarding the mode in which English- 
 men lie in bed. I observed them sneering a little at our effeminacy; 
 their own custom being to throw off merely the upper garment and 
 recline upon the cushions of the divan, with no covering but a thick 
 paploma, and that only during the cold season. From this cause, and 
 their great aversion to a change of linen, the hircinus odor attaches 
 itself very strongly to Albanian society. 
 
 Next morning we took a view of the town, which is only interesting 
 as the birth-place of the present ruler of Epirus. It stands upon the 
 high bank of the Voiussa, which is here about as broad as the Thames 
 at Kew, and like the Araxes indignant at a bridge : a very fine struc- 
 ture of this kind, which was thrown across it during the times of the 
 Lower Empire, had been left in a ruinous state by the violence of the 
 stream, and though the vizir expended 1500 purses in repairs, all 
 his efforts were in vain ; not quite two years before our visit, a dreadful 
 inundation swept away the new works and left the old broken arches 
 
 * Had the season been more advanced, and the weather sultry, we should have requested to sleep in 
 the portico, like the Ithacensian prince in the palace of Alcinous. 
 
 HiKXtro S 1 'AprjDj \cvku\ivos tlfiynruXoioi 
 At'/jri' vtt diSuari Sifievai, kcii pi'iyca Ka\a 
 Hoptyvpi epflaXittv, sopioai r i<pvirtp$r rdTtirae, 
 XXdivaj t ivSifievai ti'Xac, tcaSvirtpSiv ioaoSai. 
 
 Od. 7i. 355, 
 
SERAI BURNT DOWN. 249 
 
 in their former state of a picturesque ruin. A very handsome reward 
 is still proposed by AH to any engineer who shall enable him to defy 
 the current. Tepeleni contains about 200 houses, with a population 
 exclusively Albanian : it possesses no architectural beauties, if we ex- 
 cept the grand seraglio which Ali has built upon the site of bis paternal 
 mansion. This is a very spacious edifice standing upon a fine rock 
 at the edge of the cliff: I speak indeed of the seraglio which then 
 was, for a new edifice has lately been erected upon the ruins of the 
 former, which was accidentally burnt by fire in 1818. The account 
 of this conflagration, which I received from an Albanian correspondent, 
 is worthy of detail, since it tends strongly to illustrate the character 
 of Ali, which these pages are intended principally to portray. 
 
 The mischief was occasioned either by the negligence of some at- 
 tendants in the train of Salee Bey, who was at Tepeleni on a visit to 
 his mother, or by a storm of thunder and lightning which occurred at 
 the time. However this may be, about the middle of the night the 
 whole palace was in flames. In the horror of the scene the Sultana, 
 with all the other ladies of the harem, endeavoured to make their 
 escape through the doors of the apartments, but were actually met 
 and driven back again by the ataghans of the eunuchs appointed as 
 their guards : these wretches would rather have seen them all fall a 
 prey to the devouring element, than exposed to the lawless gaze of 
 public curiosity : such is the force of Mahometan prejudice ! in this ex- 
 tremity they let themselves down through the casements of the windows 
 which they broke and tore away for that purpose. Before morning 
 scarce a vestige was left of that superb edifice which Ali had raised upon 
 the residence of his forefathers. His rage and fury were so dreaded, 
 that it was thought proper at once to ascribe the cause of this misfor- 
 tune to the effect of lightning, without hinting at the possibility of any 
 other. As soon as he received intelligence of the misfortune he set off in- 
 stantly, and scarcely rested day or night till he arrived at Tepeleni : there 
 he felt some consolation when he found that the subterranean cham- 
 
 VOL. II. K K 
 
fiO CURIOUS ANECDOTE OF ALI PASHA. 
 
 bers in which he kept his plate and other valuables were uninjured, as 
 well as the great tower in the garden which is the depository of his trea- 
 sures. He now set his head at work to contrive some plan for restoring 
 the edifice without incurring any expense. His first care was to issue 
 proclamations throughout his dominions stating that the vengeance of 
 heaven had fallen upon him, and that Ali had no longer a home in the 
 place of his ancestors. He called therefore upon his loving subjects 
 to assist him in his distress, and fixed a day on which he expected 
 their attendance. On the day appointed Tepeleni was crowded with 
 deputies from the various districts of Albania, with his old associates 
 and intimate friends, his children, and relations of every degree. At 
 the outer gate of the seraglio Ali was seen seated upon a dirty mat, 
 cross-legged and bare-headed, with a red Albanian cap in his hands to 
 receive contributions. He had been cunning enough to send large 
 sums of money beforehand to several of his retainers, from whose 
 poverty little could be expected ; and these they now brought and 
 restored to him as if they had been voluntary presents from their own 
 stores. When therefore any bey or primate offered a sum inferior to 
 his expectations, he compared his niggard avarice with the liberality of 
 others, who he felt certain had deprived themselves even of the neces- 
 saries of life for his sake, refusing the present in the following terms : 
 " What good will this offering do for Ali, a man afflicted by the 
 Divine vengeance ? Take it back murrie, take it back, and keep it for 
 your own necessities/' This hint was quite sufficient to double or 
 even treble the contribution, and by such means he collected a sum of 
 money which enabled him not only to rebuild his seraglio, but to add 
 very considerably to the treasures in his garden. 
 
 After breakfast this morning we set out to investigate the ruins 
 of a palaio-castro, which, as we heard, lay at about one hour's distance 
 from Tepeleni. The road led us for about a mile up the stream of the 
 Bentza, a small river which flows into the Voiussa below the town. 
 At a village of the same name, its bed is contracted by two con- 
 
GARDENS OF THE SEKAI. 151 
 
 verging ridges of Mount Argenick, a branch of the great Acroceraunian 
 mountains. Here the vizir has established extensive powder-mills, 
 and the scenery is very romantic. We crossed the river by a hand- 
 some bridge of a single arch, and proceeded in an easter3y direc- 
 tion to the object of our excursion. This we soon discovered upon a 
 moderate eminence, in a small district called Jarresi, but we were 
 disappointed in our expectation of finding either a Greek or Roman 
 fortress: it appeared from its mode of construction scarcely so 
 ancient as the time of Justinian, and may possibly have been erected 
 by the Norman invaders of this country in the reign of Alexius Com- 
 nenus. 
 
 On our return to Tepeleni we took a walk in the gardens of the 
 seraglio, which are extensive, and laid out by two Italian gardeners, 
 somewhat in the style of their own country. These men were de- 
 serters from the French army at Corfu, whom Ali received gladly 
 into his service, giving them houses, with a good salary, and wives 
 from his own harem of Tepeleni. 
 
 T Oa-ov re KXijpov re voKvjivrj^rtv re yvvaiKa. 
 
 We caught a view of these liberated captives during our walk, but 
 they seemed to possess neither beauty nor elegance. The great tower, 
 or treasur}', in which more than two millions of money are withdrawn 
 from circulation, is a vast oblong building three stories in height, and 
 secured by ponderous doors, of which Ali alone keeps the key. Such 
 are the resources of ambitious tyrants who are unable to establish 
 or sustain public credit by any constitutional guarantees, and are 
 dependent upon their people's fears rather than their love for sup- 
 port. 
 
 This day the sultana sent us a very excellent dinner from the harem, 
 consisting of soup, ragouts, pilau, and various kinds of pastry, at which 
 we were again gratified by the company of the governor. When the 
 wine, of which he partook freely, had opened the heart of this worthy 
 
 k k 2 
 
252 DEPARTURE FROM TEPELENI. 
 
 old Mussulman, his tongue became very fluent, and he entertained us 
 with many curious and highly interesting anecdotes. This night we 
 slept in splendid misery, and if I had not feared it might have been 
 taken for incivility, I should have made a retreat into my snug 
 little trunk-bed. 
 
 Early in the morning, after sending our best acknowledgments to our 
 kind hostess for the hospitality we had experienced, we departed for 
 Berat, taking Demetrio alone to attend us, and sending Antonietti 
 with greatest part of the luggage through the defile of Antigonea 
 to wait our arrival at Premeti. Upon mature consideration we pre- 
 ferred this tour to one which we at first contemplated along the coast 
 of the Adriatic through Avlona and Delvino. That part of Epirus 
 however has been subsequently visited by my friend the Rev. William 
 Jones, who has kindly permitted me to make an extract from his 
 manuscript journal, which will be found at the end of this chapter. 
 As we descended towards the river, a mad dervish came jumping out 
 of the portico of a new mosque near the serai, vociferating the most 
 horrid imprecations against our Christian heads : the application of some 
 paras quickly changed his tone, and the poor wretch remained dancing 
 in the wild manner of his fraternity upon the bank, and eulogizing us in 
 a most Stentorian voice till we were out of sight. 
 
 We crossed the Voiussa in a curious kind of trough, scarcely oblong 
 in shape, but broader at one end than the other: the horses were driven 
 with great shouts and cracking of whips into the river, and made to 
 gain the opposite bank by swimming: much confusion ensued, as some 
 of the animals swam to a considerable distance down the stream, and 
 others turned back when half way over : at length all arrived safe at 
 the other side, when, the saddles and luggage being replaced, we pro- 
 ceeded on our journey, and followed the course of the Voiussa north, 
 to the distance of six miles, where it takes a sweeping turn westward, 
 in the direction of Apollonia. The country now began to lie in a 
 regular ascent, the road winding along the side of continued chains of 
 
MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. 253 
 
 low hills, rising one above the other. Nearly half way between Tepe- 
 leni and Berat we gained the highest point, when the views both before 
 and behind us were extremely grand. In front we looked over a moun- 
 tainous country, which cau be compared to nothing so well as to the 
 Atlantic in a storm : the extreme horizon verging to the left was 
 bounded by the hills around Durazzo, that on the right by the mighty 
 Tomour, which in bulk and general outline bears a greater resem- 
 blance to iEtna than any mountain I have seen. His huge head, 
 clothed in a bright snowy mantle, rose splendidly sublime, like a cita- 
 del which the mountain Genius of this wild territory might fix upon for 
 his dwelling. Behind us was a spectacle still more superb: the 
 Voiussa pouring down its foaming torrent between its Alpine bounda- 
 ries; the distant summits of Pindus ; the noble scenery of Deropuli; 
 and the vast mountains of Kimarra, those dreaded heights of Acroce- 
 raunia, little inferior to the huge Tomour itself, which reflected in 
 their snow-capt peaks the brilliant tints of the rising sun. After hav- 
 ing feasted our eyes some time with these enchanting prospects, we de- 
 scended into a deep fiumara, through which the road continues for 
 about two hours : from this point all the rivers take a different direc- 
 tion, and instead of flowing towards the bed of the Voiussa, seek to 
 pour their tribute into the river of Berat, the ancient Apsus*. The 
 manners of the people in these northern regions seemed much more 
 wild and barbarous than those to which we had hitherto been accus- 
 tomed. The peasants stared at us with a curiosity bordering upon in- 
 solence, whilst the women and children ran away, or if we came 
 upon them unawares, turned their faces from us till we had passed. 
 
 * There can be little doubt respecting this identity. The river of Berat is the only one of any con- 
 sequence between Durazzo and Apollonia, through the intermediate territory of which places it flows 
 into the Adriatic sea. That this was the direction of the Apsus, vid. Liv. lib. xxxi. c. 27. " Consul 
 Sulpicius eo tempore inter Apolloniam ac Dyrrachium ad Apsum flumen habebat campum." See also 
 Caes. de Bell. Civ. 1. iii. c. 13. It was on the banks of this river that the first actions took place 
 between Caesar and Pompey. " Inter bina castra Pompeii atque Caesaris unum flumen tantum intere- 
 st Apsus," &c. DeBell. Civ. lib. iii. c. 19, &c. 
 
 2 
 
254 CURIOUS DWELLING-HOUSES AND MANNERS OP THE PEOPLE. 
 
 The villages, some on the declivities of the mountains, and others in 
 the valleys, had a very dull and gloomy appearance, the houses being 
 built of a dark red stone, all widely distant from each other : their 
 construction served to give us a proper notion of that dreadful insecu- 
 rity which must have rendered society a perfect state of misery before 
 the conquests of Ali Pasha : each mansion was formed like a tower, the 
 entrance to which was in the second story, at least three yards from the 
 foundation, and whenever any member of the family wanted ingress or 
 egress, a rope ladder was lowered and drawn up again by the rest : no 
 apertures admitted the free light of heaven to these keeps, or dun- 
 geons, except a few loop-holes pierced in the wall, from whence the 
 family muskets might be pointed against an advancing foe. Almost 
 all the inhabitants of these regions profess the Mahometan faith, 
 though they know as much about Mahomet as the Grand Lama : they 
 abjured Christianity to save their possessions, and are despised 
 equally by the Osmanlis and Greeks. A few years ago this country 
 was quite impassable to a foreigner ; every house which he had ven- 
 tured to approach would have teemed with muskets aimed against his 
 life. Surely even the tyranny of Ali Pasha is happiness compared 
 with such a state as this ! 
 
 When we arrived within a few miles of Berat, which is distant 
 twelve hours from Tepeleni, the aspect of the country appeared more 
 pleasing and cultivated, and the manners of the people more civilized. 
 Just about sun-set we entered a charming valley extending towards 
 the north, through which a gentle stream flows into the Apsus and 
 distributes verdure and fertility in its course. Here we observed, in 
 several instances, a nearer approach to the country villa than we had 
 before seen in Turkey : some houses on the banks of the river were 
 surrounded by a lawn, plantations, and fences, which, with a little 
 more taste, miight have been rendered most agreeable retreats. The rich 
 mellow tints of the sky shed an additional lustre upon the landscape, 
 as we turned to the right up the magnificent valley of the Apsus, where 
 
 1 
 

 
APPROACH TO BEHAT. 855 
 
 the towers and minarets of Berat burst full upon the view, with huge 
 Tomour rearing his gigantic head into mid-air: the grandeur of the 
 view was so striking, that we should have thought this alone a suffi- 
 cient recompence for every fatigue in our journey from loannina. 
 
 Such scenes as these will justify the bard, who thus describes them 
 after his inspection of the most classic regions that have been cele- 
 brated in the songs of poets. 
 
 From the dark barriers of that rugged clime, 
 Ev'n to the centre of Illyria's vales, 
 Childe Harold pass'd o'er many a mount sublime, 
 Through lands scarce notic'd in historic tales ; 
 Yet in fam'd Attica such lovely dales 
 Are rarely seen ; nor can fair Tempe boast 
 A charm they know not; lov'd Parnassus fails 
 Though classic ground and consecrated most 
 To match some spots that lurk within this lowering coast. 
 
 At the distance of about half a mile up the valley a fine bridge of 
 eight arches thrown across the Apsus, leads into a picturesque burial- 
 ground and suburb of Berat, to the east of which rises a noble 
 hill crowned by the fortifications of the citadel and serai of the 
 pasha* ; both of these have been lately much enlarged by their 
 conqueror. From the bridge a road runs along the right bank of 
 the river to the city, which is higher up the valley, and lies chiefly 
 around the south-east side of its acropolis. The inhabitants of 
 Berat being almost entirely Mahometan, we were lodged with a 
 Greek merchant named Nicolachi, in the large suburb of Goritza, 
 on the left bank of the Apsus, where the Christian part of the 
 population have their dwellings. Though this house was one of the 
 
 * The annexed plate was slightly sketched by the author from the window of his lodging in the 
 suburb : it received the high and beautiful finish which it now possesses from the pencil of the same 
 gentleman to whom these volumes are so much. indebted. 
 
256 CURIOUS FASHIONS OF THE WOMEN. 
 
 best in the place, and the family turned out of the best room in it for our 
 accommodation, its filth and suffocating smell was quite appalling ! 
 We found the master seated round the fire with half a dozen loungers 
 who were nearly hid from our view by a dense smoke which issued into 
 the room instead of passing through the chimney. How insignificant 
 such trifles appear to those who are accustomed to them, may be inferred 
 from the following short dialogue which took place between Mr. Parker 
 and our host: — " C e fumo qui, Signore." — " Si, Signore, dal fuoco." 
 The night did not pass without our apprehensions being fulfilled re- 
 garding the nocturnal enemies which assailed our quarters, and next 
 morning the Augean stable was cleansed by our attendants, to the per- 
 fect astonishment of the host, who appeared to glory in the antiquity 
 of his dirt. 
 
 Unable to sleep I arose with the sun and accompanied Mustafa to 
 the city. In passing over the bridge, as well as in the suburbs, we met 
 several parties of Turkish ladies riding out on horseback to take 
 the morning air : they sat astride upon the saddle with their feet in 
 stirrups, whilst a male attendant generally walked before each horse 
 and carried a short stick in his hand. Some of them were unveiled, 
 not expecting, I suppose, to meet the polluting eyes of a Christian at 
 this time in the day. Throughout Upper Albania it seemed as if a cer- 
 tain colour predominated in female apparel as connected with parti- 
 cular districts. In Argyro-Castro this was a light straw colour : here 
 at Berat it was blue ; in which latter city a fashion also prevailed in the 
 head-dress of the women which was very singular and striking : this 
 consisted of a cap or bonnet, nearly two feet in height, in the shape 
 of a bishop's mitre: it was made generally of blue cloth, well stuffed, 
 and fastened under the chin by ribbons. 
 
 The bazar, which is an extremely handsome and spacious quarter 
 of Berat, lies close to the river and abounds in all sorts of articles 
 brought from Constantinople and the large towns of Macedonia, as 
 well as in foreign goods which are imported through the sea-port of 
 
VISIT TO HUSSEIN BE\. 337 
 
 Avlona. It was now full market, and the appearance of a foreigner 
 excited no small degree of curiosity. Mustafa however, who is of Ma- 
 cedonian origin, was soon recognised, and kissed upon the cheek ac- 
 cording to custom by many old acquaintances, and before we thought 
 of returning to our lodging, his brother, who had heard of his approach, 
 and made a journey from the city of Monastir to meet him, alighted 
 from his horse at the door of a han. The affectionate embraces and 
 tears of joy shed by these two semi-barbarians at this rencontre were so 
 affecting, that I felt loth to separate them and returned home alone. 
 
 Soon after breakfast our kaivasi rejoined us, and we proceeded to 
 pay a visit to Hussein Bey, eldest son of Mouchtar Pasha, who resided 
 here in quality of his father's caimacam, under the guidance of old 
 Usuff-Araps, in whose fidelity the most unlimited confidence could be 
 placed. The young bey was lodged in the old seraglio at the foot of 
 the acropolis. He received us very civilly, and expressed a wish of 
 rendering us all the services in his power : there was nothing remark- 
 able either in his person or his manners, but his disposition seemed 
 more amiable and his mind more cultivated than that of his father. 
 Though not nineteen years old he had been married two years, but as 
 yet remained without any progeny. Before our departure he inti- 
 mated that some ancient remains might be seen within the fortifications 
 of the acropolis, and made an offer of sending us upon his own horses 
 up the heights. This we accepted and orders were given for the steeds 
 to be brought immediately out of the stables where they generally stand 
 ready caparisoned. Before we mounted we adjourned to the apart- 
 ments of Usuff-Araps, but were unable to see him, as the old gentle- 
 man was indisposed*. He was flattered however by our intention, for 
 he sent us a magnificent turkey for dinner. In descending doAvn the 
 staircase we heard the prancing and neighing of the horses in the 
 court, and observed two cream-coloured chargers, destined for Mr. 
 
 * This sanguinary character and faithful adherent to the vizir is since dead. 
 VOL. II. L L 
 
258 ASCENT UP THE ACROPOLIS. 
 
 Parker and myself, plunging about with an appearance of ungovern- 
 able fury : they were the most picturesque animals I ever beheld, and 
 in their broad haunches and chests, thick curved necks and waving 
 manes, small heads and eyes of fire, finely illustrated that splendid 
 oriental description of the war-horse in the book of Job. Our ride was 
 not the most agreeable one that we had experienced ; nor was it very 
 easy to sit these spirited animals upon a Turkish saddle, that precludes 
 all pressure of the knee, which in our own style of riding contributes 
 chiefly to a good seat. My steed became so ungovernable in ascending 
 the acropolis, that if his groom had not ran and seized the bridle, I be- 
 lieve we should have both made a precipitate descent down a chasm 
 many hundred feet in depth : when I dismounted, this vicious beast 
 thi-ew out his heels and then ran at me open-mouthed, when I only 
 escaped by running up the staircase of the serai. Another source of 
 alarm also occurred at this time: great repairs and augmentations 
 being carried on in the fortress, the court was nearly filled with carts and 
 sledges drawn by buffaloes : these animals have a decided antipathy to 
 the colour of scarlet, in which Mr. Parker and myself, having just paid 
 a visit of ceremony to the bey, were dressed. Pidcock's menagerie 
 broke loose would give but a faint idea of the noise and tumult which 
 ensued. Some of the beasts even upset their carriages and broke their 
 yokes in the exertions which they used to get free. To quiet this 
 affray we made a speedy retreat into the interior of the serai, where we 
 were courteously received by Ismail Bey, a rich Turk of Ioannina, the 
 father-in-law of Hussein Hey, who was now upon a visit to his daughter. 
 After the usual refreshment of pipes and coffee, and a very interesting 
 conversation with this polite and high bred Osmanli, he accompanied 
 us through the seraglio and fortifications, pointing out a hill, about 500 
 yards distant, from whence Ali battered these works in the time of 
 Ibrahim Pasha with four pieces of ordnance, and forced him to a capi- 
 tulation. Ibrahim had not recourse to this measure before the balls 
 began to penetrate into his own apartment, where we still saw the 
 
ANCIENT ISODOMON IN THE FORTRESS <259 
 
 vestiges, which are designedly preserved. In our egress from the grand 
 entrance of the citadel, we observed some massive buildiug of the 
 ancient Greeks, which formed the lower part of its construction, and 
 extended to some distance in the adjoining walls. It is a rough species 
 of Isodomon, and the blocks employed are of immense size. From 
 hence we made a circuit of the hill, to which the title of acropolis well 
 applies, since a small town is contained between its lines of circumval- 
 lation, wherein are many Greek churches of the Lower Empire: indeed 
 I entertain very little doubt but that anciently the whole city occupied 
 this site, and that the lower town is an addition since the Turkish con- 
 quest*. What the ancient city was called, I confess myself unable to 
 decide-f- ; nor is it at all certain at what time it received its present ap- 
 pellation. It is mentioned by many of the Byzantine historians under 
 the title of Balagrada and Balagrita, and is now called Arnaout Bel- 
 gradej to distinguish it from the celebrated city of this name upon the 
 banks of the Danube. The Greek emperors sometimes made this their 
 
 * Indeed I find it asserted in the Life of Scanderbeg that the city was situated upon the top of the 
 mountain. By Meletius it is called, 7ro\tc TtTU-^iafxivrt iir\ tt}q Kopv<j>fjt rivoj (iuvov, fit OpoVoc 
 'E7ri<rk'07rB. 
 
 + Some have ascribed it to Eordea, erroneously, as I think, because Pliny places the Eordenset 
 among the tribes of Pasonia (lib. iv. c. 10.), in which he is confirmed by Strabo, who, in describing the 
 
 freat Ignatian road, says it ran from Apollonia through the Candavian mountains of Illyricum to 
 -ychnidus and Pylon, at which latter place were the conterminous borders of Illyricum and Macedonia; 
 from thence it led through Heraclea to the country of the Lyncestae, next that of the ljordi, and then 
 Edessa and Pella, till it ended at Thessalonica. Polybius also places Eordea in Macedonia (lib. xxii.), 
 and so does Thucydides (lib. ii. p. 164, ed. Duk.) Moreover I do not find any mention in ancient 
 authors of a city called Eordea, but only a country (vid. Steph. Byz. in Voce.) Amongst the many un- 
 certain names of the cities of this region, I should be inclined to fix upon Antipatria for the site of Berat, 
 a city which was taken by Apustius, a lieutenant of Sulpicius, in the war between the Roman republic 
 and Philip King of Macedonia ; for Livy speaks of this place as being on the borders of Macedonia, as 
 situated in faucibus angustis, and as inspiring confidence into its inhabitants by the strength of its walls 
 and site, (magnitudine ac moenibus situque urbis,) lib. xxxi. c. 27 : but all the topography of this country 
 is extremely obscure, and it is much easier to find fault with the conjectures of other people than to form 
 a good one. 
 
 J Nomen habet hoc Albania? vel Arbaniae (sicut vulgus Graecorum vocat) Beligradum. hoc est, arx 
 Alba. Quippe conjuncta cum oppido arx est, qua? a Valona, celeberrima nunc etiam Epiri civitate (Lea 
 Imperator Auloniam, veteres Aulonem dixerunt) unius itinere diei distat. Leunclavii, Pand. Hist 
 Turc. p. 444. 
 
 L L2 
 
260 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 'OF THE CITY. 
 
 head-quarters when they came to chastise the revolted Albanians or 
 other lawless tribes among these districts. It is a most important post, 
 the key of all this part of the country. The great Scanderbeg himself 
 failed in his attempts to recover it from the Turks, though he encamped 
 against it with 8000 horse and 7000 foot, amongst which was reckoned 
 a strong corps of Italians sent by Alfonso King of Naples, " men 
 skilful," as the historian observes, " in the assaulting of walles and 
 holdes." The defeat he suffered here from the Pasha Sebalias, wherein 
 he lost nearly all his Neapolitan auxiliaries, was amongst the severest 
 by which his almost uninterrupted career of success was checked*. 
 The battle was most bloody : Musache de Thiopie, brother-in-law of 
 Scanderbeg, being killed, with 3000 foot and 2000 horse ; though Scan- 
 derbeg in some measure restored the fortune of the day by pouring 
 down from the hill, on which he was encamped with a select corps, 
 upon the rear of the victorious enemy, and slaying with his own hand 
 two desperate Osmanli captains who had sworn his destruction. The 
 bodies of the Christians slain in this battle were shamefully mutilated, 
 and their heads carried in triumph to Constantinople. Berat was 
 conquered by the great Sultan Amurath II., since whose time it has 
 never been freed from the Ottoman yoke. 
 
 After having surveyed the fortifications of this citadel and enjoyed 
 a view of the splendid scenery which it commands on all sides, 
 we remounted our steeds at the door of the serai and descended 
 down the acropolis: I own I had no great zest for mounting my 
 Bucephalus, but amongst these people it is quite necessary to shew 
 no signs of fear. When we had thanked Hussein Bey for his civi- 
 lities, and distributed the customary presents amongst his retainers, 
 we took a walk through the city, which is large and contains thir- 
 teen Turkish mosques : from thence we strolled through the beau- 
 
 * Knolles's Hist, of the Turks, p. 370, &c. 
 
A LI'S CHARACTER IN BERAT. 261 
 
 tiful cemetery represented in the annexed plate: beyond this are 
 numerous and extensive gardens bordering on the great plain, which 
 extends to Valona on the west and very near to Albassan and Kavaia 
 on the north : we observed large droves of buffaloes cropping the 
 herbage, or cooling themselves in the river, which is here about as 
 broad as the Thames at Richmond. 
 
 On our return home we dined sumptuously upon old Usuff's 
 turkey, and in the evening received visits from some respectable 
 Greek gentlemen : they were the only persons we had met with who 
 spoke with any degree of satisfaction at the government of Ali Pasha ; 
 but they contrasted it with the turbulent insecure state in which they 
 existed, owing to his aggressions, during the latter years of Ibrahim's 
 reign : besides which, it is certain that the despot's views still turn 
 northward, and that he is very anxious to gain possession of the 
 pashalic of Scutari ; the advantages therefore of a good character in 
 this part of the country are not to be overlooked. We retired to rest 
 early, having a long journey to perform next day in the direction of 
 Klissura, Premeti and Konizza, up the valley of the Voiussa. I now 
 gladly use the kind permission of my friend Mr. Jones, to take an ex- 
 tract from his MS. journal, feeling confident that in this I do but anti- 
 cipate the wishes of my reader. 
 
 Berat, Oct. 2d, 1815. — The pasha having sent horses, according to 
 his promise, we left Berat about nine o'clock in the morning for the 
 ruins of Pollina, the ancient Apollonia. Below the hL., upon which 
 stands the great fortress and seraglio, we passed through a Turkish 
 cemetery, containing an astonishing number of tombs, unaerthe shade 
 of which the Albanians, employed upon the works, were eating their 
 breakfast. Our road lay in a direction nearly N. W. until we crossed 
 
2&2 EXTRACT FROM MR. JONES'S MS. JOURNAL 
 
 the river, which is the Apsus of antiquity. After this we entered into 
 an immense plain covered with all kinds of cattle, buffaloes, horses, 
 sheep, and goats. At about the middle of this plain we again reached 
 the banks of the Apsus, and followed its course till it took a sudden 
 turn to the N. W. It was our intention to have reached the monas- 
 tery of Payane, which lies close to the ruins, this evening, but night 
 coming on, we took up our quarters in a wretched village called 
 Shaelk : our lodging, which was the best in the place, was a miserable 
 hut built of the stalks of Indian corn, twigs, and mud ; three large 
 openings in the wall serving for door, windows, and chimney. Early 
 next morning we left these quarters and reached the monastery in two 
 hours, where an old monk undertook to be our guide to the ruins of 
 Apollonia. 
 
 A single Doric column forms the sole vestige of this once great and 
 populous city, the theatre of Caesar and Pompey's contests, and the 
 place of Augustus's early education. A few other relics remain in the 
 walls of the monastery, and in some Turkish sepulchres on the road 
 from Berat there are several inscriptions, but all sepulchral. In 
 every map which I have seen, Pollina is placed too far from the sea, 
 and too near to the Voiussa. From hence we pursued our course in a 
 southern direction through the small village of Lievano, crossed the 
 Voiussa in a ferry-boat, and proceeding along a fertile plain, arrived at 
 Avlona in the evening. This town contains about a thousand houses, 
 almost all Turkish. From hence we crossed over the hills just behind 
 the town, and proceeding in a S. E. direction, came to the river 
 Susitza, a considerable stream, nearly as large as the Voiussa, into 
 which it flows just below the village of Armen: this is probably the 
 Celydnus of antiquity: it takes its rise in the mountains of Kimarra. 
 From the village we proceeded nearly in an eastern direction, till we 
 came near to the Voiussa, and then turning to the right, arrived at the 
 village of Selenitza, about half a mile from which is the principal shaft 
 
RELATING TO APOLLON1A, DELVINO, &c. qQ$ 
 
 of the great pitch mines, which bring in a considerable revenue to the 
 vizir*. Placed in the noose of a rope I descended down this shaft : 
 it was about forty feet deep, and of recent formation. Advancing 
 near two miles further up the Voiussa, I came to a spot of ground 
 devoid of all vegetation, from whence proceeded a strong sulphureous 
 smell. My servant struck a light with which I set fire to the gas that 
 issued out of the crevices ; the flame spread rapidly in different direc- 
 tions, and burned with great fury at the time of my departure. I 
 perceived a number of bees and reptiles lying dead upon the ground 
 near these crevices. Close to the spot are three oblong blocks of 
 stone worked with great nicety, which had been turned up out of the 
 ground by people digging for sulphur : these probably are fragments 
 of the ancient oracular Ny mphaeum -j~. From the village of Romous in 
 this vicinity, we proceeded through Carbonara to the ferry of Lundra, 
 for the purpose of crossing the Voiussa and visiting the ruins at 
 Gradista on the right bank of that river. This ancient city sur- 
 mounted the summit of a lofty hill, round which the outer wall may 
 still easily be traced : a transverse one of later date runs across the site 
 formed of small stones and mortar. In a westerly direction from this 
 transverse wall are the remains of a temple, and on turning southward 
 I found a long subterranean chamber of an oblong shape, but narrow 
 in proportion to its length : at no great distance from the southern 
 wall of the city stood evidently a theatre; the angular corners of the 
 proscenium are visible, and the ground is seen rising in a graduated 
 manner. 
 
 * This pitch seems to have been celebrated in ancient times. 
 
 Fusca vocetur 
 Nigrior ILLYRICA cui pice sanguis erit. 
 
 Ovid, de Arte Amandi. ii. 657. 
 
 + Concerning this spot Strabo thus writes. 'Ec £e rjj x^ff T ® v AiroWioviaTiiv KaXtirdi ti Jivftipatov 
 
 jrerpa 2' E?t irvp dvaciiaaa' vif dvri) Ci Kprivai fiiueri ^XiapS dcnpaXru Katofttvrn; we tiKog Trje jiw\a -T}e 
 
 a<rij>a\T(riSoe. L. vii. p. 316. A more full description may be found in Dion Cassius, who gives an 
 
 account of the oracle, 1. xli. § 45. See also liv. xlii. 36. Plin. iii.26. Van Dalede Orac. p. 287, &c. 
 
264 EXTRACT FROM MR. JONES'S MS. JOURNAL 
 
 From Gradista I meant to have proceeded by the direct road to 
 Tepeleni ; but my Albanian guard had lately taken a wife, and as he 
 had not seen her for some time, I indulged him by passing the night in 
 his house at the village of Fratari, on the mountains which lie to the 
 left of the road. The customs of the country did not permit me to see 
 the lady who was the object of our visit. 
 
 In the course of the evening several of his Albanian friends came to 
 see him, in their large shaggy capotes, with long pipes and white staves 
 in their hands. Some of these were the wildest looking fellows I ever 
 beheld. A wandering dervish passed the night with us. He was 
 above eighty years of age, wore a very long white beard, and was ex- 
 tremely talkative till about the hour of going to rest : then he assumed 
 a sudden seriousness preparatory to his prayers. I could not help 
 feeling a degree of respect mingled with pity, when I saw this venera- 
 ble old man go through his ablutions and prayers : he performed part 
 in silence and part loud enough to be heard, repeating the name of 
 Mohammed two or three times with great solemnity. 
 
 From Fratari we did not arrive at Tepeleni till the second day, as the 
 roads became extremely bad on account of a heavy fall of rain. The 
 vizir is fortifying this town and has already cut a deep trench at the 
 back of it. The direct route from hence to Ioannina is through Argyro- 
 Castro and Delvinaki ; but as the plague was now raging at the former 
 place, I deviated to the once beautiful city of Gardiki, now utterly 
 overthrown or rendered desolate by the vizir, Avho has vowed that it 
 shall never again become the habitation of man. From hence I con- 
 tinued my route between two high mountain ridges till I descended 
 into the plain of Delvino; but here also I found the plague broken 
 out and the city surrounded with troops to prevent all communica- 
 tion. The sick were in a kind of barrack on the hills behind the 
 town. Being told there was a palaio-castro or some ancient ruins at 
 the village of Phenike, about half an hour distant, I proceeded 
 
RELATING TO APOLLONIA, DELVINO, &c. Q65 
 
 thither, sending my guard forward to inquire if any symptoms of the 
 plague were known to be in the place. Upon receiving assurance that 
 all was right, I determined to take up my quarters there for the night. 
 Soon after my arrival a large fire of wood was lighted at the foot of 
 the hill, and a goat roasted whole to welcome me. The whole village 
 formed a circle round the fire and I seated myself amongst, them. It 
 was a beautiful moonlight, and in spite of that unwelcome visiter the 
 plague being so near, I could not help enjoying the singularity of the 
 scene. 
 
 Early next morning, being told there was a curious fountain on the 
 eastern side of the hill, I ascended thither; but found in it nothing ex- 
 traordinary, though the inhabitants assured me that it had a regular in- 
 crease and diminution daily during the summer. From hence I 
 ascended the hill by a steep path covered with fern and briars to an 
 ancient wall, which highly gratified my curiosity. I found it in a very 
 perfect state to the distance of sixty yards in length, and twenty-three 
 feet in height. The stones employed in its construction are immensely 
 large. I measured one which was seven feet long, twenty-one feet high, 
 and three feet two inches broad : another was nine feet eight inches 
 in length by seven feet two inches in breadth ; and in one spot three 
 stones alone form a piece of wall thirteen feet in extent. These blocks 
 are cut with great accuracy and seem as firm as if they had been 
 placed here but a few days. In the interior, the ground is almost on a 
 level with the top of the wall. I entered by what appears to have been 
 the principal gateway, and soon observed two octagonal columns about 
 ten yards distant from each other, the fragment of a fluted pillar, and 
 some other relics. The area is covered with briars and herbage, and 
 exhibits evident marks of its having been occupied at two distinct 
 periods by more modern inhabitants than the ancient Hellenes. 
 Thinking it probable, from the appearance of the stones, that some in- 
 scription might be discovered, 1 procured assistance from the peasants 
 
 VOL. II. M M 
 
266 
 
 EXTRACT FROM MR. JONES'S MS. JOURNAL 
 
 in removing several, and discovered one inscribed Avith the following- 
 word in large characters : 
 
 A M B P A 
 KlftTA 
 
 Excavations here in all probability would be very successful. Not far 
 distant I found two other octagonal columns standing, like the others, 
 erect, and about two feet in height, with many other architectural 
 fragments, and foundations of several edifices. There is also what I 
 take to be the site of an immense theatre, facing the west, where the 
 ground is seen to rise like a succession of steps one behind the other. 
 The wall is most perfect on the eastern side of the hill along its brow: 
 it appears also at intervals on the western side: the whole circum- 
 ference seems about two miles: in some parts it is scarcely thirty 
 yards in breadth, and is intersected in its sides by deep hollows: at its 
 north-west extremity (for it runs north-west and south-east) it is lower 
 and terminates almost in a point : towards the other end and on each side 
 it is so steep as to make the ascent extremely difficult. The whole rises 
 quite abruptly near the centre of the plain of Delvino; at the south-east 
 end of which is the little village of Phenike. This situation is assigned 
 by Signore Psalida to the ancient oracle of Dodona; but the only fea- 
 tures which appear to correspond with Strabo's account are the follow- 
 ing: — 1. The plain, very marshy, particularly towards the south, where 
 two rivers lose themselves in a considerable lake, viz. theBistntza, which 
 flows from Mourzina five hours south-east from Phenike, and the 
 Kalesproti which runs on the west side of the hill.--- 2. The hill itself, 
 surrounded on all sides by magnificent mountains, except towards the 
 south where the sea and the island of Corfu are seen above the low 
 eminences. — 3. The fountain on the east side of the hill. 
 
RELATING TO APOLLONIA, DELVINO, &c. 267 
 
 The epithets Jug-^Vh/xk and ^.Trui/wro?, which Homer and iEschylus ap- 
 ply to Dodona well accord with this situation : there are many trees, 
 principally willows and poplars, on the plain; but I could discover no 
 traces of the prophetic oaks*. 
 
 From Phenike I went along the banks of the Bistritza to its source. 
 I visited in my way an old Greek church, dedicated to Saint Nicolo, 
 distant about one hour from the village; it is. evidently constructed 
 with materials brought from the ruins : the interior is supported by 
 granite columns some of which are twenty inches in diameter, but 
 others less : they are not more than seven feet in height : in the walls 
 are several blocks sculptured in relief with figures of a lion, an eagle, &c. 
 well executed. Amongst others I found one with an inscription de- 
 faced, but terminated by the word xAipete " Farewell" The source 
 of the river is just below the village of Mourzina. Half issues 
 out of the rock in at least fifty streams of the sweetest and most trans- 
 parent water: the other half proceeds from a pool, which appears very 
 deep, as the surface is not ruffled by the least ebullition. I was shewn 
 at another place a round hole in the rock, from which a few years ago 
 water also flowed ; but this is now dry. The rock appears of limestone: 
 the water issues out in most places with great velocity and forms a 
 stream as large as the Avon at Bath. 
 
 From hence, passing through Mourzina, we proceeded between two 
 immense ridges of mountains branching off from that which forms the 
 western boundary of the great vale of Deropuli, whose scenery soon 
 
 * From this accurate account of Mr. Jones, the classical reader will, I think, agree with me in what I 
 have before observed regarding the fallibility of Signore Psalida's opinion regarding the site of Dodona. 
 In fact, the ruins above mentioned belong to the ancient city of Phoenice, whose very name is still pre- 
 served in the modem village : it was the strongest and richest city of all Epirus ; (ttoXu fi QoivLkti Sdipepe 
 TOTt twv Kara Tijv 'llweipov -xoXtiov c.vSatfior>i<p Polyb. I. ii.) : it was betrayed by some Gaulish merce- 
 naries to the Illyrians in the reign of Queen Teuta, a circumstance which Polybius says struck terror 
 into the Grecian cities when they saw ri)v o\vpioTg.Triv afia kcu Sovo.tu>t6.tt\v ttoXiv rwv iv rij 'Hircipgi 
 7rapo\o'ywe Stoic iiqvlga-Koh'Cofiivqv' (1. ii.) and from hence he takes occasion to blame the Epirots for 
 relying on such a faithless crew as the Gauls, and hints at the danger of trusting an opulent city to the 
 protection of mercenaries. 
 
 M M 2 
 
268 EXTRACT FROM MR. JONES'S MS. JOURNAL 
 
 burst upon our view, exhibiting a prospect of unparalleled magni- 
 ficence in its noble mountains and its numerous towns and villages. 
 We passed across it to a village on its eastern side, but the inhabitants 
 would not receive us when they heard we came from the neighbourhood 
 of Del vino : we were obliged therefore to keep on our course, and as it 
 was a fine moonlight night, and we were travelling under a Grecian sky, 
 we scarcely regretted our disappointment. We rested at Pondicatis, 
 and next day reached Zitza, a place celebrated in the stanzas of Childe 
 Harold, though I think his encomium is much too lavish. The view is 
 certainly fine, but far inferior to the vale of Deropuli and many others 
 of Epirus. Here is made the best wine in Greece, and this was the time 
 of vintage. All the wine is made out in the fields, where the grapes are 
 put into large casks and trod upon by men bare-footed, till the juice is 
 quite expressed : it is then carried in goat skins to the village, put into 
 barrels, and left to ferment and settle : it is removed in this manner 
 four or five times before it is put into the cask for drinking. 
 
 In my way from Zitza to Ioannina I passed through the village of 
 Protopapas, which some consider as the site of Dodona : I made dili- 
 gent inquiries for ruins, but could find none. The approach to Ioan- 
 nina from the north appeared to me much finer than that from the 
 south, its grand seraglio, fortress, minarets, and cypress groves being 
 seen from this quarter to great advantage. The last few days I passed 
 in Ioannina were rendered melancholy to me, from a very distressing 
 circumstance. On my arrival, October 12th, I was informed that two 
 English gentlemen were in the city, one of whom lay dangerously ill. 
 I went immediately to visit them and found the sick person to be a 
 Mr. King whom I had known at Corfu, and from whom I experienced 
 many civilities. He was chaplain to the Ionian forces, and had come 
 with his friend Captain Scrivcn of the Royal Artillery, to sec Ioannina 
 and pay a visit to Ali Pasha. Great alarms were expressed, for fear his 
 disorder might be the plague, and I was earnestly requested to leave 
 the place ; this however I could not consent to do, especially as I per- 
 
RELATING TO APOLLONIA, DELVINO, &c. oQg 
 
 ceived Mr. King's illness was the malaria fever, which he, as well as his 
 servant, had caught at Prevesa. He was apparently about forty years 
 of age, and possessed of as strong and robust a constitution as I ever 
 met with ; but he died in my arms on the 15th, and I buried him next 
 evening in the cemetery of the Greek church of St. Nicolo. On the 
 following day I procured a stone slab, which, after I had inscribed upon 
 it the name and titles of the deceased, I placed at the head of his grave. 
 The day before I quitted Ioannina I visited the vizir in company with 
 Captain Scriven. The chief subject of our conversation related to the 
 unfortunate death of Mr. King : he appeared affected by the event; but 
 whether this proceeded from humanity I will not pretend to say. The 
 same day we also paid a visit to Salee Pasha, the vizir's youngest son. 
 He had lately received two tails from the Porte and been created Pasha. 
 He received us sitting like his father, and asked us several pertinent 
 questions respecting our own country and our opinion of Albania. Next 
 day I departed for Athens over the mountain barrier of the Pindus. 
 
Fortified Rock in the Suburbs of Fremiti— Turkish Burial Ground, and Bridge over the Voiussa, 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Departure from Berat — Route to Klissura — Description of the Town and 
 Fortress — Fauces Antigonecr, — Route to Premeti — Lustral Eggs — Town 
 of Pretneti, Serai, and curious Rock on the Bank of the Voiussa — In- 
 teresting Route to Ostanitza- — Castra-Pyrrhi — -Ostanitza — Route to 
 Konitza — Picturesque Situation of that City — Mountain of Papingo — 
 Albanian Governor's Hospitality — Ascent to the ancient Fortress — Beau- 
 tiful Crystals found on the Hill — Route to Mavro-vouni, and from thence 
 to Ioannina — Ceremonies of Easter — Greek Fasts — Visit to the Vizir, 
 Mouchtar and Mahmet Pashas — Money Affairs at Ioannina, Rate of 
 Interest, §c. — Visit to Signore Logotheti of Livadia — Excursion to the 
 Island in search of MSS. — Dinner with Mouchtar Pasha — Vizir sends 
 his Chaoushes for us — Translation of his Papers — Interesting Conversa- 
 tion with Ali — Sudden Change of Weather — Visit to the Convent of 
 Saint George, on Occasion of its Festival — Moonlight Scene from the 
 Heights of Mitzikeli — Anecdote of Mustafa — Scene mth the Hegume- 
 nos — Greek Convents and Caloyers — Last Interview with Ali Pasha, fyc. 
 — Departure from Ioannina. 
 
ROUTE TO KLISSURA. 271 
 
 APRIL 6. — This morning we started on our return. For a short 
 distance we ascended up the fine valley of the Apsus, terminated far 
 off by the huge Tomour*, and then turning to the right proceeded in 
 a southerly direction through a valley of two hours in length, bounded 
 by moderate hills covered with evergreens, and interspersed with man} r 
 cultivated spots, but few habitations. We then ascended upon higher 
 ground and had not only a noble prospect in front of the dark moun- 
 tains of Kolonia, but a very fine retrospective view of Berat Avith its 
 fortified citadel, and the gigantic Tomour. For the next three hours we 
 proceeded in a general descent of country through valleys and beds of 
 torrents, and found the country exhibiting signs of greater population : 
 at the end of five hours we passed the large Turkish village of Tojar, 
 upon the side of a mountain on the right, where about fifteen years 
 before Ali and Ibrahim had fought several sanguinary battles; about 
 two miles further appeared a small fort built by the vizir upon the 
 summit of a hill, at the bottom of which stood a spacious han called 
 the Han of Ali; we had passed another called the Han of Ibrahim near 
 an hour before. For the next four hours the road was generally unin- 
 teresting, up and down hills and in the beds of torrents ; only a few 
 houses were scattered about, and each of those generally occupied 
 the summit of an eminence, isolated as it were for the sake of se- 
 curity. We crossed at least as many as thirty streams, and two of those 
 nearly thirty times. At the end of these last four hours we arrived at a 
 han, but so disgustingly filthy and miserable that we determined to pro- 
 ceed to another about two hours further on. The latter part of this 
 
 * This mountain is called by Strabo To/jopoe orTyudpoc ; but Eustathius ad Od. 7r. gives it an appella- 
 tion much nearer its modern sound, TofihpvQ. It is olten mentioned by the Byzantine historians, and 
 seems to have hud a strong citadel or fortress in its vicinity. Xifitapov <frp»p«o»' ri xiu itvro loiripiov vepl 
 BaX&ypira u k iruivov (Cantacuz. Hist. p. 301.) If the Tomarus of Dodona be c< nfined to this spot it 
 will upset ali ire theories yet formed upon the subject: but as this latter place is always reckoned in 
 Epirus, and Tomour is far beyond its limits, some other range of hills must have had this appellation: 
 in fact the mountains of Kolonia and Zagori appear to be but branches of this enormous trunk. 
 
270 DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND FORTRESS 
 
 route lay through a lovely plain under a magnificent mountain on the 
 right called Trebesheena, opposite to which we found the han destined 
 for our resting place, situated in one of the most picturesque sites that 
 can be imagined. 
 
 Next morning we resumed our journey for one hour through a 
 beautiful valley, under Mount Trebesheena to Klissura, which is 
 situated on a tremendous precipice of that mountain, where the 
 Voiussa pours its foaming waters through the great defile, anciently 
 known by the name of " Stena Aoi," or " Fauces Antigoneae." 
 
 The situation of this town is singular in the extreme. It lies at a 
 considerable height up the mountain, which is a rock totally bare of 
 vegetation, and beyond it appears a large fortress, built by Ali, to 
 curb the spirit of this district, upon the very edge of a precipice more 
 than a thousand feet in perpendicular height. We rode up to the 
 town, which contains about two hundred inhabited houses, which are 
 certainly amongst the most miserable tenements we beheld in all our 
 travels, and their occupants exhibited such a picture of misery as was 
 frightful to the imagination. A few dirty rags served as an apology 
 for clothing to the adults, and the children absolutely went stark 
 naked ; though the thick coating of dirt with which their bodies were 
 lined might almost be said to stand in the stead of garments. A large 
 colony of gypsies still more wretched in appearance, if possible, were 
 mingled with the inhabitants. In ascending to the fortress Ave ob- 
 served a great number of ruined habitations, amounting to between 
 three and four hundred, which gave a still more desolate ap- 
 pearance to the view of this arid rock*. The castle is large, though 
 not built for long duration ; artillery could with difficulty be brought 
 to bear against it. Near the foundation of the first entrance are 
 
 * A very extensive cemetery in the plain below Klissura, where a large Teke or Turkish monastery 
 was just erected, denotes the former population of this place. The people are said to have emigrated 
 about half a ceatury ago to the mountains of Kolonis. 
 
 1 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND FORTRESS. 273 
 
 several layers of Greek masonry, which shew that this important post 
 was not neglected by the ancient masters in the art of war. If a city 
 ever existed in their time upon this spot, it was probably Antigonea. 
 Before we entered into the castle we ventured as near as safety allowed 
 to the giddy height upon which it stands. Looking down we beheld 
 the Aous still chafing its channel between two tremendous walls of 
 rock, which scarcely leave room for the river and the narrow road 
 which winds along its side*. The noise of the foaming torrent at this 
 height is heard only in gentle murmurs. Beyond the Trebesheena, 
 upon which Klissura is situated, another lofty mountain runs parallel 
 to it from north to south called Mesgourani, both of which form one 
 side of this contracted defile. The opposite heights are called Mel- 
 chiovo, and are branches of the vast chain of Mertzika. From this ad- 
 vantageous position the Roman Consul Flaminius drove Philip King of 
 Macedon by means of treachery, and thus gained an inlet into the 
 interior of his territories. We were received into the fortress by its go- 
 vernor, and conducted over the fortifications. To this place Ali fre- 
 quently sends his state prisoners as to one of complete security. We 
 observed several of these wretched victims of his tyranny and suspicion: 
 one of them was a poor Greek of Lepanto, who had been seized at 
 the dead of night in his bed, and hurried away instantly to Ioannina, 
 from whence, after having been detained in a noisome dungeon 
 eighteen months he was banished to this dreadful prison, where he 
 had remained two years without even knowing the crime for which he 
 suffered : the poor man could attribute his misfortunes only to having 
 procured a protection from the French ambassador at the Porte. 
 Another prisoner was a young black eunuch, sent hither for having 
 struck with a knife and wounded one of the vizir's pages : this appear- 
 ed a malicious urchin, and could scarcely be restrained by manual cor- 
 rection from his savage propensities. 
 
 * Is inter montes quorum alterum iEropum, alterum Asnaum incolae vacant, angusta valle fluit, iter 
 exiguum super ripam praebens. Liv. I, xxxii. c. 5. 
 
 VOL. II. N N 
 
274 ROUTE TO PREMETI— LUSTRAL EGGS. 
 
 Having satisfied our curiosity, we descended into the town to satisfy 
 our appetites with some coarse calamboci bread and eggs, and then set 
 forward again up the valley of Aous, taking the same road as that by 
 which Philip fled from the Roman legions. At the outskirts of the 
 town we met a poor dervish in ragged apparel, who beckoned me from 
 the party and begged alms in a most piteous tone: after I had satisfied 
 his request, he whispered in my ear the following sentence : eTk*i I iWia 
 k*xo? ivSpairo',' fcaAa^H tb? Tapxa;- — " The vizir is a bad man, for he ruins 
 the Turks." A curious character for a Turkish pasha in a district of 
 Greece! The torrent of the river, which is always rapid and impe- 
 tuous, was now greatly augmented by the melting snows : the bridges 
 thrown across its channel are numerous and handsome, many having 
 been erected by the Byzantine emperors, and distinguished by marks of 
 the Greek cross. The distance from Klissura to Premeti is about five 
 hours: we crossed the Voiussa to enter this town by a handsome 
 bridge, upon which a Turk of some distinction had been hanged a 
 week before, for having shot a poor Greek in a brawl at a tavern. The 
 gallows was erected over the centre arch, and the criminal hung for 
 several days, a warning to all who came in or out of the city, that 
 the vizir has no respect for persons in the punishment of delinquents. 
 
 Premeti is situated in a beautiful recess under some of the loftiest 
 crags of Mertzika, which here rise perpendicularly from their bases, 
 shooting their spiry forms into the sky with all the varieties of Alpine 
 scenery. The snow at this time lay deep on their summits, and is 
 contained in cavities during the whole of the year. Numerous wolves 
 infest this district, against whose ravages the fierce race of Molossian 
 dogs is the only security. We found Antonietti with our luggage 
 safely lodged in the house of an elderly widow lady, which, like all 
 the other houses in this place, stands separate and distinct from its 
 neighbours. After dinner our hostess came into the room with much 
 ceremony, and having kissed our hands, presented us with some boiled 
 eggs dyed in various colours ; an offering very general amongst the 
 2 
 
TOWN AND SERAI OF PREMETI. 375 
 
 Greeks in the season of Passion- week. For these lustral eggs there 
 seems to be good classical authority. 
 
 Et veniat quae lustret anus lectumque locumque 
 Praeferat et tremula sulphur & ova manu *. 
 
 Being tired with our journey we repaired early to rest ; next morning 
 we paid a visit to the governor, who resided in a large serai above the 
 town, which Salee Bey inhabited before he was removed to Argyro- 
 Castro. This building was fitted up with greater splendour than any 
 we had seen except that of Tepeleni : it contained very fine baths and 
 a beautiful kiosk, paved with marble, in the midst of which was a 
 fountain : the serai is situated in a kind of paddock, to which exten- 
 sive gardens are annexed; it is also surrounded by strong works, but 
 no cannon are yet mounted. The governor, attended by his guards, 
 escorted us in our return to the city, the only curiosity of which, 
 worthy descriptionf, is a large isolated rock on the left bank of the 
 river, apparently about sixty feet high, and three hundred in circuit at 
 its base, (see the vignette.) On the top of this appear the ruins of 
 ancient edifices; but though we were anxious to ascend and satisfy our 
 curiosity, not a rope nor a ladder could be procured for this purpose. 
 At length a young Albanian boy, about twelve years old, undertook to 
 climb up the steep side with no assistance but his hands and feet, and 
 this task he accomplished with apparent ease, by clinging to the rock, 
 and supporting himself with a few roots and twigs that grew within the 
 interstices. From his description the whole summit is surrounded by 
 a dilapidated wall, in the interior of which is a ruined chapel and a 
 
 * Ovid de Arte Am. ii. 329. See also Juvenal Sat. vi. 516. 
 
 nisi se centum lustraverit ovis. 
 
 Lucian also makes mention of the wov Ik KaSaparta. Dial. Mort. i. § 1. 
 
 + Premeti is celebrated in the following Albanian proverb — " Premeti, jeineti, pach bouk, eshum 
 oyee"— or " Premeti, Pinfemo, poco pane, molt' acqua." 
 
 N K 2 
 
376 INTERESTING ROUTE TO OSTANITZA. 
 
 tank or cistern of water. It is in all probability a small fortress, built 
 during the times of the Eastern Empire*. 
 
 Having mounted our horses at this spot, and taken leave of our 
 courteous guide, we advanced for about two hours up the left bank of 
 the Voiussa, then crossed it by a noble bridge of three arches, and 
 soon came into some of the most magnificent scenery which nature can 
 present to the traveller. The richness of vegetation in these concave 
 valleys, covered with every species of beautiful shrub and the most 
 luxuriant verdure, was finely contrasted with the snowy ridges of their 
 mountain barriers : sometimes the defiles became contracted, and the 
 road closed up as it were by two walls, paining the eye to scan their inac- 
 cessible summits: at other times impending rocks and precipices on the 
 one side, served only to set off the fine curvilinear sweep of the hills on 
 the other, and for many miles we had an alternate succession of these 
 grand natural theatres, the semicircular coilon being alternately on the 
 right hand and on the left, whilst the impetuous Aous dashed from 
 rock to rock as it were in a series of continual cascades. Here and 
 there a fine picturesque bridge added a new feature to these romantic 
 scenes, a mountain cataract came foaming across the path, and villages 
 appeared upon craggy heights that seemed to defy every hand but 
 his that wields the thunder. Some of these were at this time deserted 
 
 * The following is the account given of this rock by Mr. Jones. " Near the river is a carious per- 
 pendicular rock, at least sixty feet high, on which are ruins. I procured a ladder which reached half 
 way to the summit, and climbed up the other half with great difficulty, by putting the sash of my guide 
 round the roots of a tree which grows from the side. Round the edge of the rock I found a wall about 
 six feet high, with battlements at equal distances, and on the north side where I ascended there is a 
 small tower. Towards the south are two rooms, and the foundation of a third : the middle one is 
 exactly similar to a bath in the old Moorish castle of Cintra in Portugal, but rather smaller in dimen- 
 sions : it contained clear water about three feet in depth; but it was evident from the marks on the wall, 
 that the water sometimes rose higher. My guide, who was the didascalos and most learned man of 
 the place, told me it never was without water, and that when some of the inhabitants once endeavoured 
 to empty it, they could not succeed. It is fifteen feet long, nine wide, and seven high, from the water 
 to the centre of the arched roof. This, as well as the room adjoining, was coated with cement or 
 stucco. The account of the people here refers the whole to a religious establishment; but I should 
 rather conceive it to have been a fortress. At the distance of a few hundred yards down the river is 
 another rock similar to this in shape and size, on which are also a few remains of building." 
 
CASTRO-PYRRHI-OSTANITZA. 277 
 
 by their inhabitants, on account of the plague, which was spreading 
 itself in the district, having been introduced by some wandering- 
 gypsies. In several instances we saw the people who had descended 
 into the plains and left the sick in their villages : these were guarded 
 by a cordon to prevent communication, whilst the rest were encamped 
 in tents and huts made of the boughs of trees. 
 
 After a ride of seven hours we came near the once populous town of 
 Ostanitza. At the distance of about two miles we crossed a considerable 
 river called the Sarandaporos, by a bridge of a single arch, so highly 
 pitched, that we thought it prudent to descend from our steeds. This 
 stream flows into the Voiussa, and near its junction forms with that 
 river a beautiful peninsula, which in all probability is the ancient 
 Castra-Pyrrhi, at which Philip arrived in his first day's retreat from 
 Flaminius, after his unfortunate defeat in the straits of Klissura*. This 
 peninsula is a fine eminence washed by each of these rivers, and on the 
 summit are remains of Avhat appear to be ancient fortifications. No- 
 thing can exceed the beauty of the prospect from hence, down the 
 valley of the Aous ; though the fine rocky scenery above, clothed in 
 rich wood is scarcely inferior. The terraces of this ancient fortress 
 were covered with a turf as soft as silk, and enamelled with a thousand 
 wild flowers, intermingling their various hues. 
 
 Having next crossed the Voiussa we passed the picturesque ruin of 
 an old Greek church half covered with ivy, and ascended the steep 
 hill upon which Ostanitza is situated. It is now a poor town, scarcely 
 containing 300 houses ; but the site is superb. It must once have been 
 extremely populous and large, for I counted near twenty churches 
 which appear to have been ruined and deserted for some centuries. We 
 
 * Rex primo die ad Castra Pyrrhi pervenit; locus, quem ita vocant, est in Triphylia terras Meloti- 
 dis; inde postro die (ingens iter agminis, sed metus urgebat) in Montem Lingon perrexit: ipsi montes 
 Epiri sunt, interjecti Macedonia? Thessaliaeque. Latus quod vergit in Thessaliam, oriens spectat; 
 septentrio a Macedonia objicitur. Liv. I. xxxii. c, 13. 
 
278 PICTURESQUE SITUATION OF KONITZA. 
 
 found from the inhabitants of this village more incivility than we had 
 experienced in all the rest of our journey, and it was with difficulty 
 that we could procure a lodging. It was pretended that the codgia- 
 bashee was absent, and after riding about for near half an hour, we 
 procured a miserable hut some degrees worse than an Irish cabin. Wc 
 ascended to our loft by a broken ladder, and Mr. Parker had very near 
 broken his leg by slipping through its decayed floor into the stable 
 below: it was with the utmost difficulty we could find two sound 
 places to spread out our beds. Other travellers also have complained 
 of similar ill usage in this place : Mr. Jones was refused admittance 
 altogether, and learnt that four soldiers belonging to the vizir had been 
 murdered but a few days before his arrival. 
 
 As there was nothing here to tempt our stay, we started by sun- 
 rise next morning and proceeded through a very picturesque and 
 beautiful country into the great plain of Konitza, which city lies 
 about four hours north-east of Ostanitza. It is situated on the roots 
 of a magnificent crag, which forms one side of a deep defile, through 
 which a foaming torrent called Voidomati, or the " ox-eye," pours its 
 tribute into the Voiussa. The mountains on the other side this chasm 
 are on a still grander scale, and form a noble curvature exactly similar 
 to the exterior of an enormous Greek theatre: this resemblance at a 
 distance is remarkably striking, and constantly attracted our attention 
 during yesterday's ride *. 
 
 Konitza stands at the north-east end of its large triangular plain, 
 being beautifully situated upon the declivity of a mountain whose 
 summit is crowned with the remains of a ruined castle: to the south of 
 this acropolis is a deep chasm amidst rocks which scarcely yield even 
 to that of Klissura in the dark terrors of the abyss: this defile is 
 bounded on the other side by that noble mountain range, curved in a 
 
 * Pliny, speaking of the great mountains between Thessaly and those interposed between it and 
 Epirus, says they are all curved like a theatre ! " Omnes theatrali modo iuflexi." Lib. iv. c. S. 
 
ALBANIAN GOVERNOR'S HOSPITALITY. 27.9 
 
 theatroidal form, which had so strongly attracted our attention yes- 
 terday. Its modern name is Papingo; it is difficult to deter- 
 mine its ancient appellation : perhaps it may be that Mount Lignon 
 over which, according to Livy, King Philip retreated into Thessaly, 
 when he fled before the Roman consul. The Macedonian monarch is 
 much blamed by that historian for this precipitate retreat, since, had 
 he opposed but a few hundred men to the pursuing enemy, amidst the 
 terrific defiles of these mountainous regions, he might not only have 
 prevented his advance, but probably annihilated the greatest part of 
 his army. 
 
 Konitza is one of the best specimens of an Albanian city that we 
 saw : its houses stand for the most part separate, and the courts being 
 planted with trees, a very pretty effect is thus given to its external as- 
 pect. It contains 5000 inhabitants, about two-thirds of which are 
 Mahometans. It is a bishopric, but the bishop takes his title from 
 Vellas, as that of Argyro-Castro does from Drinopolis. The bazar is 
 particularly neat, and the habitations in general extremely good, being 
 built of stone, with handsome shelving roofs. We rode at once up to 
 the grand serai of the vizir, and paid our respects to its Albanian go- 
 vernor, a fine man, in a green old age, the intimate and confidential 
 friend of Ali. We found him at his dinner-table with a Turkish der- 
 vish and six other Albanian friends, clothed in their sheep-skins, and 
 eating a thick rice soup with wooden spoons. They received us with 
 great cordiality, and were so urgent with us to dip into their mess, 
 that common politeness forced us to gulp down a few spoonfuls of 
 this horrid pottage. As we expressed a desire to visit the ruins of the 
 ancient fortress, the aga sent three of his guards to conduct us up the 
 hill. We ascended by a winding path, and as we went along picked 
 up many of those beautiful crystals of quartz, for which this mountain 
 is celebrated : they are found in greatest abundance after heavy rains, 
 detached from the matrix, and as they lie mixed with the gravelly 
 particles may easily be distinguished by their brilliancy. They are 
 
280 ASCENT TO THE ANCIENT FORTRESS. 
 
 highly diaphanous and perfect, surpassing even the famous Aleneon 
 diamonds in splendour and resembling them in form. 
 
 Upon a rocky height, just before we arrived at the summit of the 
 mountain, we observed an ancient Greek church, dedicated to St. 
 Barbara ; but the ruined fortress itself contained nothing worthy of ob- 
 servation : it is probably one of those with which Justinian covered 
 the face of this country for defence against the Huns and Sclavonic 
 tribes which in his days began to ravage the Eastern Empire ; but nei- 
 ther here nor in the town itself could we discover the least vestige of 
 any ancient Hellenic building. We were however amply recompensed 
 for the trouble of ascent by the splendid panoramic prospect which 
 this mountain enabled us to scan. 
 
 We mounted our horses at the foot of the hill, and proceeded across 
 the deep ravine by a large but rudely constructed Avooden bridge 
 thrown over the torrent. In a little less than three hours we re- 
 crossed the Voiussa, and proceeding in a south-west direction over a 
 hilly country, arrived late in the evening at Mavro-Vouni, or the Black 
 Mountain, whose appellation is derived from the nature of its soil, 
 which gives it a very dark and gloomy appearance. On the summit 
 stands a little village, where we slept, but started again next morning 
 before the sun arose. We were gratified by a lovely moonlight, 
 and the songs of nightingales resounded charmingly in the silence 
 of the night. After the lapse of one hour we passed between two small 
 lakes, and soon afterwards arrived at the fine plain of Kalibachi, in 
 which are numerous villages and a new han built by the vizir. In this 
 vicinity are the ruins of the city of Vellas, the metropolis of Konitza. 
 At about one mile from the lake of Ioannina a noble prospect of that 
 fine expanse of water comes into view. By the side of the road is a 
 beautiful fountain beneath a neat cupola, which contains seats for the 
 accommodation of travellers. Here we opened our wallets, and made 
 an excellent breakfast, for which the keen air of the mountains had 
 given us an excellent appetite. We sat a considerable time after our 
 
CEREMONIES OF EASTER. 281 
 
 meal to enjoy the beauty of the scenery, and then descended to the 
 upper lake, whose eastern side we skirted till we arrived at a han 
 which is the station of the ferry-boats. Here, as we crossed the water, 
 we saw, under its transparent surface, the remains of many pilasters 
 that once supported a causeway by which a passage was effected on 
 foot across the lake. We reached the opposite bank just below the 
 hill of Dodona, and having left the baggage to proceed leisurely, we 
 put our horses into a gallop and arrived at Ioannina before our usual 
 time of breakfast. 
 
 It was Easter Sunday, and we observed the Greeks in the streets 
 greeting each other with the holy kiss and customary salutation of 
 Xjiro? w-spi, or " Christ is risen." A solemn piece of mummery is on 
 this day performed in the churches, where a wooden image, representing 
 the body of our Saviour, which had been buried in a kind of se- 
 pulchre on the preceding Good Friday with many mournful lamenta- 
 tions, is now raised up and shewn by the papas to the people, who 
 view it with every demonstration of joy and salute it with long conti- 
 nued exclamations of, Xj ts-o? win — IWi dxnSivo, S1i Xfiro? A»in. " Christ is 
 risen — it is true that Christ is risen." 
 
 On this day every Greek family that can afford it eats the paschal 
 lamb, and, as an old author has observed*, " the severity of their 
 Lent is more easily supported by the expected enjoyment of the fol- 
 lowing festival, at which time they run into such excesses of mirth 
 and riot, agreeable to the light and vain humour of the people, that 
 they seem to be avenged of their late sobriety, and to make compen- 
 sation to the devil for their late temperance and mortification towards 
 God." Indeed one would suppose that the Greek church endeavoured 
 either to push the epicurean system to the utmost by affording the 
 highest luxury of frequent contrast, or to render life a scene of morti- 
 
 * Paul Ricaut's Present State of the Greek Church, p. 136. 
 VOL. II. O O 
 
<282 GREEK FASTS. 
 
 fication by supporting the human frame during a small part of the 
 year, that it may just be enabled to endure penance all the rest. 
 More than half the year is dedicated to the most rigorous abstinence. 
 The four grand fasts are as follow ; that of Lent — that of the Holy 
 Apostles, which begins the week after Whitsuntide — that of the Pana- 
 gia, preparatory to the great festival of the Assumption — and that of 
 the birth of Christ, which continues forty days before Christmas. 
 There are besides these numerous others of minor consequence, as well 
 as every Wednesday and Friday throughout the year. In most of these 
 seasons not only is meat forbidden, but fish, butter, eggs, and oil : 
 nothing but vegetables and a little shell-fish is allowed, and not always 
 the latter. The priests are very zealous in recommending the rigid ob- 
 servance of such austerities and launching forth the thunders of ex- 
 communication against those vile offenders who presume to slight 
 them ; whilst the crime of eating flesh in Lent is that against which 
 the highest price of absolution is fixed: adultery and murder may be 
 compounded for at a much lower rate. " In the observation of these 
 fasts," says the author above quoted, " they are so rigid and supersti- 
 tiously strict, that they hold no case of necessity may or can claim a 
 dispensation ; and that the patriarch hath not power and authority suf- 
 ficient to give a licence to eat flesh where the church hath commanded 
 abstinence. For suppose a person sick to death, who with broth 
 made of flesh, or with an egg, may be recovered to life, they say it 
 were better he should die, than eat and sin. Howsoever perhaps the 
 Ghostly Father will be so far concerned in the other's health, as to ad- 
 vise the sick penitent in such cases to eat flesh, and afterwards con- 
 fessing the sin, he promises to grant absolution." Times have been 
 when this power of granting absolution was a great source of gain ; 
 but times are now altered, and very few of those who can afford to 
 pay for absolution, think they stand in need of it : the women are 
 the only part of the community who rigidly adhere to these ordi- 
 nances, to the ruin of their constitution and the torment of their lives. 
 
VISIT TO THE VIZIR, AND TO MOUCHTAR PASHA. 285 
 
 How far such a system of deprivation may tend to the debasement of 
 their progeny and the deterioration of the species, I leave to the de- 
 termination of better physiologists than myself. 
 
 As soon as we had undergone the restorative process of the bath 
 after the fatigues of our long journey, we paid a visit to the vizir in his 
 serai of Litaritza. We thought there Avas an evident alteration in his 
 manner of receiving us, and we attributed this probably to its true 
 cause, the failure of his designs upon Parga, in which he no doubt ex- 
 pected British co-operation. While we sat in the room with AH, 
 Mouchtar Pasha was announced, who came to consult the vizir 
 upon affairs of state : as their conversation was carried on in the 
 Turkish language our presence was immaterial, and Ali prevented us 
 from retiring. Mouchtar remained about twenty minutes, during 
 which time he stood at a little distance from his father, with his 
 hands resting upon his gold-mounted pistols, nor would he have 
 presumed to take a seat, or been asked to do so, had the conference 
 lasted as many hours : such is the filial reverence expected and paid to 
 parental authority in Turkey ! After Mouchtar had retired Ali conversed 
 with us about our expedition and expressed his satisfaction that we had 
 been at Tepeleni : he shewed us a few brass coins which had been dug 
 up at Apollonia, but they were all Roman and devoid of interest. We 
 soon took our leave and adjourned to the serai of Mouchtar Pasha, who 
 was anxious to hear news of his son as well as our opinion of Berat : 
 he told us a long story respecting the palaio-castro at Jarresi near Te- 
 peleni, saying that it belonged to a daughter of King Pyrrhus, being 
 given as her dowry in marriage to an Illyrian prince : where he found 
 this legend I am unable to tell. After this visit we adjourned to 
 eat the paschal lamb with our friend M. Pouqueville, and spent a very 
 agreeable day in comparing notes respecting what we had seen and 
 heard during our Albanian excursion. The next morning was dedicated 
 to paying and receiving visits from our Greek acquaintance, and pro- 
 
 o o 2 
 
284 MONEY AFFAIRS AT IOANNINA. 
 
 curing money for our bills upon Constantinople : in this latter nego- 
 tiation we had no difficulty, for it happened to be the time when 
 Mouchtar Pasha received his revenue, and as he was obliged to for- 
 ward money to Constantinople he found our bills a great accommo- 
 dation. We procured cash chiefly in gold, for convenience in travelling, 
 though we were obliged to pay a premium for this. The gold coin 
 highest in esteem throughout Turkey is the Venetian sequin, executed 
 with as much deficiency in point of taste as the ancient Athenian tetra- 
 drachm*; but like it equally valued on account of its superior purity 
 and freedom from alloy. The elementary or lowest degree of Turkish 
 money is the asperf, of which three make one para : forty paras are 
 equal to one piastre, and the piastre may be reckoned equivalent to a 
 French franc. There are also pieces of twenty, sixty, eighty, and one 
 hundred paras, which last is the largest silver coin. The Ottoman gold 
 coins are rare: the largest are equal to five piastres and the smallest 
 to half that sum. Gold always fetches a premium in the south of 
 Europe, but more especially in Turkey, where the despotic nature of 
 its government imposes the necessity of hoarding upon its people: 
 moreover the silver coin is extremely debased, and is now little better 
 than plated copper, which is soon made apparent after the pani has been 
 carried a week in the pocket. Every piece of coin, both gold and silver, 
 is stamped with sentences from the Koran, for the Turks carry their 
 prejudices against image-worship so far that they will not allow even 
 their favourite idol to be figured with the resemblance of man or beast. 
 No laws being established respecting usury in Turkey, the rate of in- 
 
 * For a most ingenious and interesting Dissertation upon Athenian Coinage by Lord Aberdeen, see 
 Mr. Walpole's Memoirs, p. 425. 
 
 + This also, though the lowest coin, is used by the Greeks and Turks as the general expression for 
 wealth ; thus when they wish to denote a very rich man they say he has many aspers — " e'x« xoXXa 
 a7rpa." The expression in St. Mark's Gospel, c. vi. v. 8, is somewhat similar to this — " /i») iig t>)v 
 Zwvtiv \a\Koy" — The zone or girdle, is used in Turkey and all other parts of the East, in which the 
 purse is carried. 
 
VISIT TO SIGNORE LOGOTHETI OF LIVADIA. 285 
 
 terest is very fluctuating : it varies generally from ten to thirty per 
 cent* ; but when the rate is very exorbitant the security is propor- 
 tionably slight: some money-holders prefer the safe, others the specu- 
 lating plan, according as their prudence or their cupidity preponderates. 
 Ali Pasha employs a curious method of gaining a per-centage upon 
 money in his dominions. When the time approaches for paying his 
 troops or otherwise disposing of any large sums, he buys up the gold 
 coin at the rate which it bears in Constantinople, pays it out at the 
 high price to which this very circumstance has advanced it, and then, 
 when his own payment has by a plentiful circulation reduced its value 
 again, he orders all his revenues and other dues to be paid in gold. 
 
 Next day we resumed our visits amongst the Greek families of our 
 acquaintance, and found our old friend the Archon Logotheti of Liva- 
 dia, who had arrived at Ioannina during our absence. He was lodged 
 with three or four companions in a smoky miserable tenement, a per- 
 fect contrast to the elegant and luxurious mansion wherein we had 
 visited him at his native place. His residence at Ioannina was the 
 result of Ali's policy, who obliges the primates and other officers of the 
 Greek cities in his dominions to reside a portion of the year in the 
 capital. This circumstance, together with the quartering of his troops 
 upon the city, has more than quadrupled the expenses of house-rent, 
 board, and lodging, since his accession to the sovereignty of Epirus. 
 We brought Signore Logotheti home to dine with us, and were happy 
 in this and other opportunities of returning the civilities that we had 
 formerly received from him. 
 
 April 13. — This morning I set out in a caique, accompanied by 
 Signore Nicolo, and visited the island, for the purpose of searching the 
 monasteries for manuscripts. In this investigation however we were 
 
 * The rate of usury was sometimes very high amongst the ancients. In " the Feast" of Lucian Ze- 
 nothemis is railed at by Cleodemus for his avarice in taking four per cent, per month, or forty-eight per 
 annum. 
 
 b? E7ri TiTTapai cpa^fiaiQ 8a>'it£<n. § 32. 
 
286 DINNER WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. 
 
 completely disappointed : not a book beyond those necessary for the 
 service of the church, a few folios of miracles or lives of saints ; 
 not a MS. except a copy of the psalter and a collection of hymns. 
 We searched diligently six convents : the seventh was prohibited to us, 
 being at this time the prison of the two unfortunate sons of Mustafa 
 Pasha, and the cells of the monks occupied by Albanian soldiers : as 
 all these religious houses have at various times undergone a similar con- 
 version, the reader will not be surprised at the failure of our enter- 
 prise. As Ave returned home across the lake about noon, our ears 
 caught the tinkling sound of distant music, and on looking to the 
 quarter from whence it proceeded, we observed two monoxyla row- 
 ing towards us very swiftly : presently we heard our names called 
 out in a loud harsh tone, and then discovered how the boats were 
 freighted. In the first was Mouchtar Pasha with his chief physician for a 
 companion, whilst the second carrying his major-domo and his cook, was 
 loaded with large stores of eatables and a household fiddler, like the 
 ancient bard, that invariable concomitant of the feast*, stretching his 
 lungs to the tortured catgut and celebrating in wild Albanian music 
 the deeds of Ali and his valiant sons. Mouchtar was in high spirits, 
 but all his boisterous exclamations could not discompose a muscle in 
 the face of this modern Phemius, or disarrange a note of his inharmo- 
 nious strains. The pasha insisted upon our returning to dine with him 
 on the island; an invitation which needed not a repetition either to 
 Nicolo or myself. 
 
 At landing we were met by a concourse of people who accompanied 
 us to a neat well-furnished house, where a considerable number both of 
 men and women staid in the room laughing and joking with the pasha 
 as if they had been his equals. Indeed the manners of the prince ap- 
 
 * 'Ou yap iyio ye tl <j>ri)U re'Xos ^apii^epov livai 
 "H otolv ivfpoavvr) fiev i^r), HairoTrfToe o.tt(iot\c, 
 \acTVfi6vt^ ft dva lufiar &Kt)d£<«i'rai aoiSv. 
 
DINNER WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. 287 
 
 peared but little superior to those of his retainers, whilst his coarse 
 and boisterous mirth seemed admirably adapted to the meridian of 
 their capacities. In the mean time the cook and people of the house 
 were busily employed in heating and preparing the viands, and in a 
 short time about twenty as neat and piquant dishes were set before us 
 in regular succession as ever graced a pasha's table. Mouchtar just took 
 off the edge of his appetite with four hard eggs and a proper quantity 
 of bread! and at dinner when I affirm that he eat as much as two English 
 ploughmen I believe I am within the line of truth. We made a 
 partie quarree, consisting of the pasha and his physician, Signore 
 Nicolo and myself, and we dispatched the meal in little less than one 
 hour and a half. Two or three women stood in the room nearly all 
 this time, with whom Mouchtar laughed and joked between courses : 
 he also rallied poor Nicolo, asking him whether this was not better fare 
 than what he met with at Rustschuk ? Nicolo shook his head mourn- 
 fully at the mention of that dire abode, where, during a long siege, he 
 had frequently been glad to make one meal a-day, though that was upon 
 horse-flesh, and rarely stirred out of a subterranean cavern which he had 
 dug for himself as a defence against the shells of the Russian artillery. 
 The recollection of these privations however did not diminish his ap- 
 petite, which seemed rather inclined towards the compensatory system 
 of things. We drank the best wine which this part of the country 
 produces, though it cannot boast of many positive good qualities. 
 When an hour had elapsed after dinner, Ave left Mouchtar to enjoy his 
 siesta, while we perambulated this beautiful little island and admired 
 the charming scenery which its whole circuit displays. I could not 
 help making a remark upon the voracity of the grandee we had just 
 left, to his physician, and requested to know how it was possible for a 
 person to indulge such an inordinate appetite with impunity. The 
 doctor replied that he was as much astonished as I was, " but those 
 Turks, they are used to it." After our walk we took a pipe and some 
 coffee, and as Mouchtar Pasha intended to sleep on the island for the 
 
288 VIZIR SENDS HIS CHAOUSHES FOR US. 
 
 purpose of an early shooting excursion next morning, we returned in 
 the cool of the evening to the city. Next morning it being understood 
 that I had been to search for manuscripts on the island, a person brought 
 to me for sale an unedited treatise upon astronomy by Meletius the 
 Archbishop of Athens : it consisted of about 400 pages in 4to., and the 
 figures as well as the text were executed with remarkable neatness ; 
 but I had had too much experience of this worthy prelate's blunders 
 upon earth in his incomparable geography, to fancy that he would be 
 found more accurate in his delineation of the heavens. I therefore 
 left this treasure in the possession of its proprietor. 
 
 Scarcely a week had elapsed since our Albanian expedition, when 
 the whole city of Ioannina was thrown into alarm on our account. 
 This happened whilst we were spending an evening accidentally at 
 Mons. Pouqueville's, when the vizir suddenly sent for us to his serai : 
 as we were not found at home, and no one knew where we had gone, 
 at least a score kaivasis and chaoushes, with their gold and silver sticks, 
 were dispatched over the town and environs to find us. Rumour 
 stretched out all her wings, and opened all her mouths upon the 
 occasion, and amidst the thousand reports afloat concerning us, the 
 prevalent opinion was that the buldrun was to be our habitation in 
 revenge for the vizir's disappointed ambition at Parga. Even Mons. 
 Pouqueville himself was infected with the alarm, and with a charac- 
 teristic trait of generosity offered us the asylum of his consular dwell- 
 ing, which he assured us Ali dare not violate. 
 
 However, neither Mr. Parker nor myself felt any alarm, but followed 
 the chaoushes with great tranquillity through the streets to the serai of 
 Litaritza. There we found the vizir in the highest state of good 
 humour possible, and his reception of us more cordial than any we had 
 before received. We were his dear friends, the natives of a country 
 which he entirely loved — coffee, sweetmeats, and pipes, were brought 
 to us by wholesale, and the fine arms in the Albanian room taken 
 down for our inspection. The grand secret of all this soon came out. 
 
TRANSLATION OF HIS PAPERS. g89 
 
 He had just received notice that his frigate, which he had sent to 
 Malta for the purpose of being rigged, copper bottomed, mounted 
 with guns, and supplied with stores, had arrived in the harbour of 
 Prevesa, and the good humour now exhibited seemed as if it was occa- 
 sioned by this sop thrown to the Epirotic Cerberus. A list of all the 
 articles furnished from the British arsenals had been forwarded by the 
 port-admiral; but that important document being written in English, 
 had put all the scholars of the seraglio to their wits end, though many 
 of them before this had boasted not a little of their attainments in our 
 northern language. When all had tried and failed, Ali bethought him- 
 self of our assistance, and for this purpose sent his chaoushes to escort 
 us to the seraglio. 
 
 The papers being put into our hands we adjourned to the little 
 justice-parlour in the court of the serai, where our first introduction to 
 the vizir took place; and with the help of Signore Colovo transferred 
 their meaning into Romaic, through the medium of the Italian, though 
 in many instances we were sadly puzzled by the nautical terms for vari- 
 ous unknown instruments : by the help however of blanks, asterisks, 
 and a few good guesses, we made out a tolerable translation, though we 
 spent three hours in the labour. 
 
 Next morning, Mr. Parker feeling indisposed, I waited alone upon 
 the vizir, to know if he was satisfied with our performance, and if we 
 could render him any further assistance. I found him in a room very 
 magnificently furnished, and according to his common custom, smoking 
 the houka. He appeared much elated by his acquisition, thanked me 
 in a courteous manner for the trouble we had taken, and expressed his 
 intention of going immediately to Salagora to review his fleet. He 
 then entered into conversation with me respecting our late tour, 
 asked many questions respecting my opinion of the country, and of 
 his son Salee, and appeared pleased with the answers which I gave him 
 respecting the latter : he asked me also if we had discovered any silver 
 
 vol. n. p p 
 
290 INTERESTING CONVERSATION WITH ALL 
 
 mines in his country; but I assured him that neither my friend nor my- 
 self had studied mineralogy : he said he thought there were some in 
 the neighbourhood of Tepeleni, and many persons had told him so. 
 Who these could be I am unable to conjecture ; but if one ever did 
 discover any it would be the height of cruelty to make them known to 
 him, and thus condemn hundreds of his unfortunate subjects to perpe- 
 tual imprisonment in the noxious bowels of the earth. When we 
 arrived at the neighbourhood of Tepeleni, I expected he would have 
 touched upon the massacre of Gardiki : but in this I was disappointed, 
 for he was silent upon that subject, and I did not dare to introduce it. 
 He then requested some information respecting the nations that 
 in ancient times possessed the districts over which he had extended 
 his dominion: at the same time he paid a handsome compliment 
 to the generality of English travellers, for the knowledge they 
 acquired upon such subjects. With a much more limited range of 
 information than the vizir gave me credit for, and still having to 
 struggle with peculiar difficulties in the language that formed the me- 
 dium of communication, I endeavoured to satisfy his curiosity by 
 giving him a succinct account of the early settlers in these regions, of 
 their colonization by the Greeks, and their subjection to the Romans. 
 He listened with great attention and apparent interest, but made me 
 dwell particularly upon the exploits of Pyrrhus, of whose character he 
 never before had any distinct notion : he inquired with a certain air 
 of mistrust about the elephants which that monarch employed in his 
 military operations, and asked, with a laugh, whether I thought ele- 
 phants would be of any use against his Albanian palikars : to this I 
 answered, that the mode of warfare was entirely altered since the days 
 of Pyrrhus, owing to the invention of fire-arms; but that even now 
 those animals were employed in great numbers by our military men in 
 the East Indies. We then passed on to the Roman conquerors, and 
 he seemed not a little elated when I told him that the empire of the 
 
INTERESTING CONVERSATION WITH ALL 291 
 
 world had been twice contested within the limits of his dominion, once 
 by land on the Pharsalian plains, and once by sea in the Gulf of 
 Actium : he said he had heard that the palaio-castro, near Prevesa, 
 was the record of a great victory, but did not know before that it was 
 one of such great consequence. 
 
 My tobacco being now consumed, and being afraid of intruding 
 upon the vizir's time, I made a motion to depart ; but he requested me 
 to remain, and ordered one of his pages to bring another pipe. In the 
 mean time he turned the conversation upon Great Britain ; but his in- 
 quiries tended more to the satisfaction of curiosity upon trifling sub- 
 jects, than to the acquisition of knowledge upon those of greater in- 
 terest; for instance, he asked me if King George could cut off a sub- 
 ject's head, and seemed quite astounded when I assured him that he 
 had no more power than the subject had to cut off his, unless the latter 
 had forfeited his life to the law. He laughed outright when I told him 
 that a member of the royal family or the king himself might be sued 
 in a court of justice. He then asked me how the king procured his re- 
 venue, and when I answered from the voluntary imposts of his people, 
 he shook his head, as if he thought he should starve if he had to depend 
 upon so precarious an income. Amongst other topics, of which it 
 was impossible to remember half, he asked me what induced my coun- 
 trymen to undergo so many hardships and run so many dangers by 
 land and sea for the sake of visiting countries which were devoid of 
 nearly all the comforts of life. In reply I endeavoured to give him some 
 idea of our mode of education and that general cultivation of Greek li- 
 terature which is apt so strongly to influence the imagination and 
 generate enthusiasm ; which impels us to visit the land that nur- 
 tured and matured those ancient prodigies of talent, and to contemplate 
 the scenes where so many important historical events took place. The 
 vizir mused for a short time upon what I observed and then said, that he had 
 not himself had the advantage of education. I confess my dissimulation ; 
 but I could not help replying that I thought his highness had made a higher 
 
 p p 2 
 
gQ2 SUDDEN CHANGE OF WEATHER, 
 
 use of his faculties in the study of mankind, and that in England his cha- 
 racter was in greater repute on the score of talent, than if he had been 
 dignified with the title of aphilosopher. Thecomplimentevidentlypleased 
 him, for his eyes brightened and his face assumed a peculiar expression 
 of good humour. I took this opportunity of turning the discourse 
 upon his own warlike achievements, and he related to me several parti- 
 culars which T have interwoven into the memoir of his life : he seemed 
 to take a pleasure in dwelling upon the early incidents of his eventful 
 history, which probably arose from the satisfaction he now receives at 
 looking down from the height of security upon those periods when he 
 was involved in perils and had scarcely a place where to lay his head. 
 I longed to put a few political questions to him relative to some more 
 recent occurrences; but every oblique attempt was eluded, and direct 
 inquiries were out of the question. 
 
 My second pipe was now finished, and when I arose to go Ali no 
 longer detained me : he said he hoped we should not leave loannina 
 before his return from Salagora, for I had informed him that the winter 
 being now past and travelling practicable, it was our intention no 
 longer to obtrude ourselves upon his hospitality. Thus ended the 
 longest and most interesting conversation I ever held with this extraor- 
 dinary character: I took down as many items of it as I could recollect 
 immediately on my arrival at home, but regret that my memory did not 
 serve me to recollect half his observations. 
 
 Just about this time we had a sudden change of weather, and winter 
 seemed again anxious to resume its sway: snow appeared upon the 
 summits of the mountains, and for several days the thermometer 
 stood at 46° of Fahrenheit. This melancholy aspect of nature however 
 was transient, and the Grecian sky soon resumed those brilliant tints 
 and that harmonious colouring which during greatest part of the year 
 adds such a charm to the beauty of its scenery. 
 
 St aviftoiat Ttvaaairai, Sri ttot of-ifipa 
 
 tksvtrtu, Sri \iu>v tn-uriXmreu - aWa fia\' aiBpr) 
 
 nEnTATAI ANNE*EAOS, AEYKH A* EniAEAPOMEN AirAH. 
 
AMUSEMENTS OF THE MODERN GREEKS. 293 
 
 During this short gloom I occupied myself in taking extracts from cer- 
 tain documents relating to Albania and its capital, which were very 
 kindly submitted to my inspection by several persons of our acquaint- 
 ance. We afterwards resumed our excursions either alone or in the 
 company of friends, and visited the beautiful monasteries on the borders 
 of the lake, taking provisions with us, and spending the day amidst 
 their shady recesses. The people of Ioannina are very partial to these 
 expeditions, and at many of the convents which we passed, were seen 
 large family parties of men, women and children, reclining indolently 
 under the shelving porticos, enjoying the luxuries of the table, and 
 listening to the discordant tones of a violin or mandoline, or accompa- 
 nying the instrument in loud strains of nasal melody. These scenes 
 brought strongly to our imagination the picture of ancient times, when 
 the joys of life appeared to centre in similar amusements. 
 
 "ilc T»re fitv irpovav lifiap t£ ijiXiov Karahiivra 
 "Vijie^a ianvfjievot Kpia r atrircTa ic&t [ii$v fi<iv' 
 r HfiOQ S" >/e'\ios KariSv, k<il cwl nyi<j>as -fi\$tv, 
 'Ot fxtv Koifi^aavTO Kara /xiyapa okiocvto.*. 
 
 Od. k.476. 
 
 It is to be expected that the habits, manners and customs of a people 
 will always bear a certain resemblance to each other in the early stages 
 of their social existence and in their decline; that is, before refinement, 
 which tends greatly to confound all peculiarities, is far advanced, and 
 when it is almost extinguished. The amusements indeed which engage 
 the minds of the modern Greeks are scarcely exceeded in simplicity by 
 
 * Such was even supposed to be the chief amusement of their Gods. 
 
 'tic ran fiiv Trpoirav Jjfiap Ig iiiXiov KarufivvTa 
 baivvvT, &<i trt Svfibg tSevtro Satrdg ttVijc, 
 'Ou fiiv <f>6p^tyyo{ xtpnaXXeoc, >/>' erf 'AiroWtoy, 
 Meirdwv •&' 01 anSov, apeiflofievai oirl KaXij' 
 
 Od. a. in fin. 
 
294 V 'I S1T TO THE CONVENT OF ST. GEORGE. 
 
 those of the heroic ages. The reader will however be astonished to learn, 
 as I was myself to hear, that since our departure, theatrical exhibitions 
 have been displayed at Ioannina under the patronage of the vizir, a 
 temporary theatre being erected, and the whole corps de ballet im- 
 ported from Corfu : such a scene, I will venture to say, was never ex- 
 hibited in a Mahometan city since the era of the Hegira. The occasion 
 of all these festivities was the marriage of our young friend Mahmet 
 Pasha to the daughter of a rich bey of Larissa, at which his father 
 Vely was present. 
 
 May 4. — On this day we observed a bustle in Ioannina and a great 
 number of monoxyla skimming over the surface of the lake. Upon in- 
 quiry we found that a grand festival was to be held on the morrow at 
 the convent of St. George which is situated near the summit of Mount 
 Mitzikeli. On the festival of our national Saint it would have been 
 very unpatriotic in us to have been absent, and we determined to join 
 the throng of pilgrims. Having sent Antonietti forward with our beds 
 and provision we embarked about noon in a caique, with Signore Nicolo 
 for a companion, passed over the lake, and mounted our asses, of which 
 great numbers were ready for hire at the other side : the ascent occu- 
 pied about two hours, and was sufficiently amusing from the ludicrous 
 scenes exhibited amongst the various parties through the obstinacy of 
 their beasts. The hegumenos with several of his caloyers met us at the 
 gates of the convent, which stands in a rocky recess, probably two 
 thousand feet above the level of the lake below, and immediately under 
 the craggy summits of the mountain, where the snow lay at this time in 
 deep ridges. The best room in the convent was allotted for our recep- 
 tion and the superior did us the honour to sit at table, though his laws 
 did not allow him to partake of our fare. He exulted much when he 
 learned that his tutelary saint was the guardian of our native island, and 
 assured us there was not a better or a more powerful one in the whole 
 calendar. In the evening we sat in the balcony and amused ourselves 
 ] 
 
MOONLIGHT SCENE FROM THE HEIGHTS OF MITZIKELI. 295 
 
 m seeing the pilgrims arrive, who deposited their stores in the court- 
 yard, and were accommodated in a long range of low rooms on the 
 north side of the area; the apartments of the monks occupy that on 
 the south, and between them on the eastern side stands the chapel. 
 Fires were lighted in the court to dress the victuals, round which the 
 different parties sat feasting and singing to their discordant instru- 
 ments : in some places various feats of strength were exhibited, in 
 others the Romaika was danced, groups of women and children were 
 seen scattered about the mountain, and the whole scene was full of in- 
 terest and animation. Here the Greek character shewed itself in its 
 more light and airy cast, whilst the poor people, raised for a time above 
 the reach of tyranny and forgetting their miseries, gave way to their 
 feelings and indulged in all theirnative vivacity. At night a lovely moon, 
 which was now in the full, shed her silvery light upon the surrounding 
 scenery, and her rays, which were reflected in the lake below, rendered 
 Ioannina with all the villages and hills around its plain distinctly though 
 faintly visible. AVe adjourned from the convent to the edge of a noble 
 precipice, a few hundred yards distant, where the mountain rises almost 
 perpendicularly from the water's edge: upon its top Antonietti had 
 pitched our tent in the centre of a large circular threshing-floor (similar 
 to the ancient tuTpo'x*^? uxm) where the honest caloyers tread out their 
 corn by means of horses and oxen. Here we sat to enjoy the luxurj' of the 
 pipe and to contemplate the delightful prospect, whilst the night breeze 
 threw its plaintive murmurs over the surrounding rocks, and the sounds 
 of distant merriment in the court of the convent broke upon our ears 
 through the general silence. The moon in these delightful climates seems 
 almost to emulate the solar orb in brilliancy, and whilst I viewed her 
 beams playing upon the surface of the water as upon a mirror, throwing 
 into light and shade all the rocks and promontories of the lake, and 
 bringing into full view the fine wavy undulation of Mount Olitzika, I 
 felt that the mighty bard, the glory of Greece and of the human race, 
 
296 ANECDOTE OF MUSTAFA. 
 
 must have painted from nature that noble scene, whose beauties it i« 
 scarcely possible to transfuse into any foreign dialect. 
 
 As when the moon, refulgent lamp of night, 
 O'er heaven's clear azure spreads her sacred light ; 
 When not a breath disturbs the deep serene, 
 And not a cloud o'ercasts the solemn scene ; 
 Around her throne the vivid planets roll, 
 And stars unnumber'd gild the glowing pole, 
 O'er the dark trees a yellower verdure shed, 
 And tip with silver ev'ry mountain's head ; 
 Then shine the vales, the rocks in prospect rise, 
 A flood of glory bursts from all the skies : 
 The conscious swains rejoicing in the sight 
 Eye the blue vault and bless the useful light*. 
 
 II. viii. Pope's Transl. 
 
 As the time approached for retiring to rest we returned to the con- 
 vent; but before we went to bed were induced by the beauty of the 
 scene to stand for a few minutes in the balcony. There we perceived 
 our kaivasi stretched out upon his mat, his head resting upon a hard 
 pillow and his upper garment taken off' and thrown over him; for the 
 custom is very general in modern, as it was in ancient times, to sleep 
 under the open portico (m a.\$ia* l^Si-n-u. Od. y. 399)- Mr. Parker, who 
 was in his night-cap and bed-gown, went up to Mustafa and gently awoke 
 him: the sleeper just cast his eyes upon him and turned himself on his 
 pillow with a groan : Mr. Parker then awoke him again, and again Mus- 
 tafa turned himself and uttered a still deeper groan than before. As he 
 slept with his ataghan and pistols in his belt I cautioned my friend against 
 
 * How much more simple and grand is the original of this splendid passage ! 
 
 'Qc S 1 or iv upavio aspa <p<uivi)i> dfupl oikr}v>)v 
 •taivfr' a'purptirta, ote t tVXfro vtjvt^oc d(-&i)p, 
 'Ek t ttpayov iratrat okottioI Kai wpwovtQ aKpoi, 
 Kill vairai' vpayvSiv <f ap' VTrippayr) &aire.TOc ai$»)p, 
 n<lvra Si r e»&ra» a^po, yt'yi/St & re <j>piva iroi/ui'/i'. 
 
SCENE WITH THE HEGUMENOS. 297 
 
 interfering any further with his rest and we went tio bed. Next 
 day however he appeared unusually dull and melancholy, and con- 
 tinued so for near a week, when Antonietti observing the change, 
 wormed out the secret by dint of intreaties, and learned to his great 
 horror that Mustafa had seen a spectre at the convent, the ghost 
 of the very Gardikiote whom he had cut down with his ataghan 
 at the han of Valiare. As soon as I knew this I immediately ex- 
 plained the whole circumstance to the poor fellow, and made some 
 excuse for awaking him. He appeared satisfied with the explana- 
 tion, but said it was not the first time he had seen that fellow, that 
 xfjara? of a Gardikiote, and he informed Antonietti that nothing should 
 ever induce him to pay another visit to the convent of St. George. 
 
 On the morning after this adventure I arose very early and attended 
 the caloyers in chapel at their orisons. This attention pleased the 
 good fathers, and they sang in their best style. Yet how much did 
 their mummeries diminish the effect of those sensations which the 
 act of adoring the beneficent Author of the universe upon this 
 lofty pinnacle of his own creation, was calculated to inspire ! After 
 service, the hegumenos accompanied me to the precipice where our 
 tent was fixed : there we enjoyed the view of Ioannina, with its moun- 
 tain scenery, illuminated by the rising sun, which had already 
 absorbed the tints of morning in one broad blaze of brilliant light. 
 How animated does the face of nature appear at this time, and how 
 nobly has the bard described it — 
 
 Night wanes, the vapours round the mountain curl'd 
 Melt into morn, and light awakes the world : 
 Man has another day to swell the past 
 And lead hira near to little but his last. 
 But mighty nature bounds as from her birth ; 
 The sun is in the heavens, and life on earth; 
 Flowers in the valley, splendour in the beam, 
 Health on the gale, and freshness in the stream. 
 
 VOL. II. Q Q 
 
898 GREEK CONVENTS AND CALOYERS. 
 
 The hegumenos, out of pure compliment to his English guest, had 
 brought with him from the convent library, an old Romaic history, 
 containing the life of Saint George. When we were seated in the tent 
 he opened this repository, put on his spectacles, and edified me for the 
 space of nearly two hours with the miraculous feats of that great 
 champion of the Christian faith. I then heard of his undaunted 
 conduct before the Emperor Diocletian in reproving idolatry, of 
 his being struck through the body with a lance by the executioner 
 without injury to the said body, of his walking bare-footed upon 
 planks studded with nails as if they had been boiled peas, of his 
 remaining unhurt amidst flames, of his destroying a fiery dragon 
 which infested the banks of the Euphrates, and a thousand other 
 miracles, which have rendered his name so illustrious throughout the 
 world. The nasal tones of the hegumenos, aided by my early rising, 
 had lulled me into a gentle slumber, when Mr. Parker and Nicolo 
 arrived, with Antonietti carrying provision for breakfast, and put a 
 stop to the worthy monk's recitation. Having made this early 
 meal in one of the most superb sites that the world can afford, we 
 took a range over the summit of the mountain, and returned to the 
 monastery for attendance upon grand mass, at which time we added 
 our mites, to those of the other pilgrims, in support of this religious 
 establishment. 
 
 The Greek monks orcaloyershave onlyone order, which is thatof Saint 
 Basil. Their habit is a long cassock of coarse cloth girt round with a belt, 
 a felt or woollen cap, and a black cowl. Their government is, or is in- 
 tended to be very austere, as they are enjoined chastity, obedience, 
 and abstinence from flesh, during the whole of their lives : bread and 
 fruit is their chief food during greatest part of the year, and at their 
 feasts only do they eat oil, eggs, or fish. Greatest part of their time is 
 occupied in their choirs, in rehearsing the psalter, in singing hymns in 
 honour of the Virgin and their patron saints, and in making their bows 
 
 1 
 
LAST INTERVIEW WITH ALI PASHA. »gy 
 
 or ptrJvoKxt as they are called, which, during the great fasts, every 
 caloyer is obliged to repeat 300 times in the twenty-four hours : 
 as for the great Lent before Easter, they begin it with three days of 
 absolute fasting, not even indulging themselves in the luxuries of bread 
 and water, and on the eves or vigils of feasts, the whole night is nearly 
 taken up in the ceremonies of devotion : according to their rule, they 
 ought to spend the greatest part of every other night within their cells 
 in reading homilies and the lives of saints. Yet even all this severity 
 does not content some superstitious devotees, who enter into a more 
 strict rule, and confine themselves to bread and water, and almost 
 constant watching during the whole of their lives. In the Greek, as 
 in the Latin church, there are lay brothers, who take the habit and 
 adhere to the rule of the order, called (UErai-oa^im or converts, men 
 weary of the vanities of the world, or who wish by penance and mor- 
 tification to wash aAvay the stain of mortal sins. These undertake the 
 management of domestic affairs, tend the flocks of the convent, and 
 press the wine of which both lay and regular brethren are permitted 
 to partake. 
 
 Like all other such institutions, the severities of the monastic order 
 among the Greeks are considerably relaxed; the progress of intellec- 
 tual knowledge begins to make men ashamed of those tollies to which 
 superstition had bound them, but it is long ere reason herself can 
 entirely overthrow the fabric which is propped up by prejudice and 
 habit. 
 
 We returned to Toannina for dinner, and in a few days afterwards, 
 when 1 had completed my extracts, we began to make preparations 
 for emitting this place which had afforded us so interesting and agree- 
 able a sojourn. Two days were fully occupied in bidding adieu to our 
 numerous friends and acquaintance : on the 10th of May we paid our last 
 .visit to the vizir in one of his little tenements near the palace of Vely 
 Pasha, where he was administering justice. We staid but a short time, 
 and when we were about to quit for ever on this side the grave, an eminent 
 
 Q Q 2 
 
300 LAST INTERVIEW WITH MAHMET AND MOIICHTAR PASHA. 
 
 personage with whom we had been so long acquainted and by whom we 
 had been treated with so much civility, it was impossible not to feel cer- 
 tain melancholy sensations, in spite of that horror which the knowledge 
 of his crimes and the sight of his tyranny was calculated to inspire. He 
 begged us to carry a letter to General Campbell at Zante, in which he said 
 he had expressed to him the satisfaction he had received from our visit. 
 Having thanked his highness for the hospitality we had met with in his 
 dominions, and recommended Mustafa and Nicolo very earnestly to 
 his favour, we arose and made our obeisance: this he courteously re- 
 turned by bowing his head and placing his right hand upon his breast; 
 after which we left the apartment and saw him no more. 
 
 Being close to the habitation of Mahmet Pasha, we took an affec- 
 tionate leave of that engaging youth, who desired us to think of him 
 as a friend highly interested in our welfare, and with great cordiality 
 wished us a safe arrival at our native land. We finished our visits with 
 Mouchtar Pasha, to whose youngest son, a fine little fellow about 
 seven years old, we presented a pair of beautiful English pistols, as a 
 slight acknowledgment of the attentions shewn us by his father. 
 Mouchtar gave us a bouyourdee for our journey, in addition to that of 
 the vizir, and promised to send with us through the extent of his pos- 
 sessions a young Albanian in his own service, son of the governor of 
 Paramithia. We spent the evening, which was rather a mournful one, 
 with our kind friends the Messrs. Pouqueville, and then retired to sleep 
 for the last time in Ioannina. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Departure from Ioannina — Cassopaa — Route to Paramithia — Grecian 
 Spri?ig—Vlakiote Shepherds — Pass of Eleftherochori — Plain of Para- 
 mithia — City — Visit from the Primate and Bishop — Ascent to the 
 Castle— -Route along the Plain to Glyky — Plutonian Temple — District 
 of Aidonati — Sa?i Donato and the Dragon — Monastery of Glyky — 
 Water of the Acheron — Fortress of Glyky and its Albanian Commander 
 — Excursion over the Plain of Phanari — Village of Potamia — River 
 Cocytus — Convent of St. George — Monastery of St. John, on the Site 
 of the ancient Necyo?nanteum — Greek Papas — Ruins of Cichyrus or 
 Ephyre in the District Elaiatis — Theseus and Pirithous — Acherusian 
 Lake — Malaria of the Plain — Conjectures on its Mythology — Ancient 
 City of Buchetium — Return to Glyky — Sleep under the Tent, surrounded 
 by Albanian Palikars — Fine Night-scene — Poetical Address to the 
 Acheron — Curious Dream of the Author's — Ascent up the Pass of 
 Glyky — Arrival at the Vizir's great Fortress of Kiaffa — Salute from 
 the Fort — Scenery described — Adventure of the Author — Suicide com- 
 mitted by an Albanian Palikar — Ceremonies before Interment — Ascent 
 to the highest Summit of the Suliot Mountains — Grand Panoramic 
 View. 
 
30g ROUTE TO PARAMITHIA. 
 
 JVlAY 11. — An early hour in the morning was fixed upon for our 
 departure : but so long a time was occupied in arranging our affairs, in 
 receiving visits, and in distributing appropriate tokens of gratitude 
 amongst our friends and hosts, that it was near noon before the 
 cavalcade could be put in motion. At length notice was given that 
 all was ready : we mounted our horses and made our way with 
 some difficulty through the crowds that lined the court and ad- 
 joining streets to witness the procession, which consisted of ten men 
 and at least double that number of horses. Our first stage was to 
 Dramisus by the road which I have before described. We were accom- 
 panied thus far by Mr. Cerbere, a young Frenchman, who had arrived 
 from Corfu on a visit to Mr. Pouqueville, and was desirous of inspecting 
 the ruins of Cassopaea. The evening was delightful, and we retraced with 
 pleasure the remains of this venerable Epirotic city. In addition to 
 my former account I have very little to add, except that the walls of 
 its fortress are from eleven to twelve feet in thickness, whilst those of 
 the lower city appear to have been constructed only of a single stone, 
 and could not have been more than two feet broad in the widest part. 
 We observed a large piece of defaced sculpture lying upon the ground 
 near some recent excavations ; it represented a Triton in bas-relief, but 
 the style of execution was indifferent. Upon a further consideration of 
 this locality, I have my doubts whether it may not have been the site of 
 Passeron*, one of the most celebrated cities of Epirus, where it was 
 customary for the kings of Molossis to take a solemn oath, and exact 
 one in return from their people; the former that they would govern, 
 and the latter that they would defend the state according to the pre- 
 scription of the laws : this was done after sacrifices to the Martial 
 Jupiter; and that stupendous theatre which still exists may have 
 
 * 'HuoSuoav 6l JSatriXtig, iv Tlcwoapuvi X^P'V r "JS MoXottISoq, 'Apf(<f> Ail Suaavree, opKiofiOTtiv rote 
 'llxtipwrait kcu opKi^eiv, avrbi uty ap£,uv, ciceivas c>£ »'/»' (iuaiXciav hci<pv\aficiy Kara r«j vofxuq. Plut. in 
 Vit. Pyrrhi. 
 
GRECIAN SPRING— VLAK10TE SHEPHERDS. 303 
 
 been appropriated to the solemn ceremony. I give this however as 
 mere matter of conjecture. 
 
 We slept at Dramisus ; but though we changed our cottage we did not 
 escape those indefatigable torturers which had destroyed our rest in a 
 former excursion. On the morrow we parted with our companion and 
 took the road to Paramithia, proceeding at first in a northerly direction 
 till we turned round the extremity of Mount Olitzika towards the west, 
 in which course we kept generally for the next six hours. Our route 
 during this time lay through the sinuosities of contiguous valleys, 
 watered by transparent streams, shaded with evergreens and thickets of 
 beautiful shrubs, amidst which a thousand nightingales made the air 
 resound with their sweet notes. It was here and in other parts of this 
 excursion that I felt to the full those ecstatic sensations which a 
 Grecian spring, to which no description can do justice, is capable of 
 inspiring ; when a balmy softness and serenity pervade the atmosphere, 
 when the richest tints are painted on the cloudless sky, when every 
 valley and plain is clothed in a deep luxuriant verdure, superior even 
 to that which our own island boasts, when every grove is vocal 
 with the melody of feathered songsters, when a thousand flowers dye 
 the surface of the earth and shed a perfume through the air, when 
 the bright splendour of the morning sun animates the soul of man, and 
 the coolest shades of evening refresh him after his daily toil. Nur- 
 tured as they were amidst such scenes, breathing such an air, and in- 
 spired with such sensations, who can wonder at that delicacy of taste, 
 that vigour of imagination, that tenderness of sentiment, that concep- 
 tion of the beautiful which distinguished the sons of Greece, when 
 Greece was free? 
 
 In these valleys we met many parties of Vlakiote shepherds driving 
 their flocks and herds from the great plains of Thesprotia, to which 
 they had emigrated from the colder regions of Zagori and the Pindus 
 mountains, for the sake of pasture during the severity of winter. The 
 vizir possesses immense tracts of land in these parts, and to him they 
 
3 04 PLAIN AND CITY OF PARAMITHIA. 
 
 pay a certain price for every head of cattle which they turn into his 
 pastures. The wives and daughters of these people rode upon asses 
 and mules, whilst the sons assisted their fathers in driving the cattle ; 
 the infants were packed up in panniers together with the scanty ar- 
 ticles of household furniture, and carried on the backs of horses, 
 being closed up in these receptacles till their heads only could be seen. 
 In about seven hours we arrived at the village of Eleftherochori on the 
 top of a rugged defile at the northern extremity of the Cassopeean 
 mountains of Suli. At this spot many sanguinary contests took place 
 between Ali Pasha and the people of Paramithia : the conqueror has 
 built a small fortress to defend the pass. The sun was setting when 
 we began to descend through this chasm into the great plain of Para- 
 mithia, which extended before us its magnificent scenery : we could 
 count five undulating ridges of mountains, all rising one beyond the 
 other towards the Adriatic coast and tinged with the colours of the 
 setting sun. Emerging from the narrow part of this defile we continued 
 along the mountain path on our left and soon saw the castle of Para- 
 mithia hanging as it were on a vast height above the city, which lies 
 supine upon the side of a large mountain. 
 
 Paramithia is considerable in size and contains many good houses; a 
 few of these on the outskirts had not yet recovered from the effects of 
 assault in the Avars with Ali. Almost all the habitations are separate 
 and shaded by luxuriant plane-trees, beneath which there are more 
 fountains of delicious water than I ever saw in any town : this, added to 
 the charming scenery which its site commands, made me think I 
 should prefer it as a place of residence to any other part of Epirus. 
 To what ancient city Paramithia has succeeded it is now diffi- 
 cult to determine ; Pandosia, Gitanae, and Batiae, all put in their 
 claims; those of the last-mentioned place seem generally allowed, 
 probably because its name bears the nearest resemblance to the mo- 
 dern appellation. There can be no doubt but that an ancient city did 
 once occupy this site, both from the remains of Hellenic building ob- 
 
VISIT FROM THE PRIMATE A.ND BISHOP. 3 ;> 
 
 servable in the fortress and the number of beautiful bronze statues 
 which have been discovered here in excavations, several of which are 
 very finely engraved and illustrated in the Specimens of Ancient Sculp- 
 ture published by the Society of Dilettanti*. We were conducted to 
 an excellent lodging by the governor's son, who then left us and 
 proceeded to the dwelling of his father. Next morning, whilst we 
 were at breakfast, we received a visit from two great personages, the 
 Greek Primate and the Bishop of Paramithia. The latter was very 
 chatty, and as he sat cross-legged upon the floor beside our table, 
 gave us a complete history of his diocese, and described the manners 
 of the people before the vizir's conquest of the country, as barbarous 
 and savage to the greatest degree ; not a person of any tribe or any 
 religion daring to approach this inhospitable tract, where life was held 
 so cheap that the barbarians frequently used to fire upon each other 
 when in want of employment against foreigners. We expressed a 
 desire of proceeding a day's journey northward of this plain to visit 
 some ruins upon the banks of the Thyamis, which have been supposed 
 to belong to the ancient Pandosia ; but were deterred from this plan by 
 the representation of our visiters, who informed us that the whole tract 
 of that country was encircled by a cordon of troops, on account of the 
 plague, and that if we even approached it, a long quarantine would 
 await us at our return. We therefore contented ourselves with paying 
 a visit to the governor and inspecting the fine fortress of Paramithia. 
 For this purpose we took horses and employed full half an hour in the 
 ascent up these steep and rugged acclivities. We passed many large iso- 
 lated houses, surrounded with gardens, and having only loop-holes, in- 
 stead of windows, from whence the musketry of their defenders might 
 be most advantageously directed. We observed also a huge fragment 
 of calcareous rock at the north end of the town, which had been de- 
 
 * Vol. I. 
 VOL. II. R R 
 
306 ROUTE ALONG THE PLAIN TO GLYKY. 
 
 tached this very "winter from an overhanging precipice : it had over- 
 whelmed two houses and killed several persons in its fall. At no great 
 distance from this spot stood the ruined mansion of the celebrated 
 Pronio Ag&, one of the greatest warriors which this country ever pro- 
 duced. 
 
 The fortress is very extensive and surrounded by an outer wall, in 
 which are substructions of ancient masonry; but this is much more ap- 
 parent near a gateway at the south-east angle, of which a representa- 
 tion is given at the head of the chapter. The foundations of many 
 houses and other buildings within its circuit shew that probably the 
 whole city, or at least a considerable portion of it, once stood in this 
 quarter : the view from hence is magnificent, the height being pro- 
 bably a thousand feet above the level of the plain. After having 
 smoked a pipe with the governor, who received us civilly, and seemed 
 much pleased at the opportunity we had given him of seeing his son, 
 we returned into the town, passing through the bazar, which is hand- 
 some and spacious, cooled by delicious fountains and shaded by um- 
 brageous platani; from thence we descended through gardens and or- 
 chards at the southern extremity into the plain, and proceeded on our 
 route towards Suli. 
 
 We were delighted with the continual prospect of towns and villages 
 peeping out of their green mantle of cypresses and oriental planes which 
 adorn this mountain scenery. In about four hours we arrived at the 
 district of Phanari, comprising that grand sweep which the plain 
 makes towards the S. W. up to the coast of the Mediterranean : its level 
 is lower than the plain of Paramithia, and distinctly marked by a 
 moderately high boundary like a shelving shore ; this together with its 
 perfectly even surface, unbroken by a single undulation of ground, 
 seems to confirm the tradition that it was overflowed by the sea in the 
 remote ages of antiquity. After riding half an hour and then turning 
 to the left we were astonished by a view of the dark rocks of Suli and 
 the defile of the Acheron : but no pen can do justice to this scenery ! 
 2 
 
PLUTONIAN TEMPLE. 307 
 
 It seemed as if we were about to penetrate into Tartarus itself and the 
 awful recesses of the Plutonian realms ; IV "Ah; xV l ? <?x<r<x» $tm- The 
 magnificence of this scene is but imperfectly represented in the annexed 
 plate ; I was unable to take much more than the outline, and it re- 
 quired the talents of a professed artist to do justice to all its parts : if 
 that friend who has kindly embellished this sketch had been present to 
 take it originally, the reader would have gained a much truer im- 
 pression of the mountains of the Acheron. This river flows in a fine 
 curve through the plain after it has left the rocky channel, which during 
 successive ages it has worn through this terrific chasm, amidst the crags 
 of which its hoarse murmurs are distinctly heard. Proceeding a little 
 further we came to the ruins of a Greek monastery which had been 
 destroyed during the Suliot wars : it stood on the very brink of the 
 Acheron and within the precincts of an ancient temple: this was evi- 
 dent from a considerable number of columns, some of which lay scat- 
 tered on the ground, whilst others, though broken, still rested upon their 
 bases: it seemed as if the temple itself had been at some time or other 
 repaired or enlarged ; for though many of the pillars were of antique con- 
 struction and the granite of which they were made was in a state of de- 
 composition, others were marble, of smaller dimensions, and a more mo- 
 dern form. Whilst we were debating with ourselves whether these frag- 
 ments were ever included in one of Pluto's Acherusian temples, or whe- 
 ther we might not be standing upon the site of that Pandosia which 
 with the fatal Acheron Alexander king of Epirus thought he was com- 
 manded by the oracle to avoid, a party of Albanian peasants came up, 
 of whom we inquired the name of the place where we stood, and heard 
 with no little surprise that it was called Aidonati. This appeared to 
 confirm our conjectures — for Aidoneus or Pluto, a king of the Molossi, 
 was fabled to have carried off Proserpine, the beautiful daughter of Ceres, 
 from Sicily to this very region, where Theseus and Pirithous were af- 
 terwards confined, when they attempted to deprive him of his prize. 
 
 a it 2 
 
308 SAN DONATO AND THE DRAGON. 
 
 The name of Aidonati therefore preserved apparently from this tradi- 
 tion afforded grounds for the supposition that this was the Temple of 
 the God of Hell. Anxious however to prevent mistakes I questioned 
 our Albanians upon the reason of the appellation, and was rather dis- 
 concerted at hearing it proceeded from an old Greek saint, who was 
 held in great veneration, called San Donato, (Ayioj Ao»«'to?) and who was the 
 patron of the ruined monastery which we beheld. This confounded all 
 our reasonings upon the subject till I recollected that the devil had been 
 converted into a saint in Sicily*, and it was possible the Greek church 
 might not wish to be behind her sister in paying a similar compliment to 
 so great a personage, at the same time a story concerning this Saint 
 Donato flashed across my mind, which the Bishop of Paramithia had 
 related to us in our conference during the breakfast yesterday. " At a 
 little distance from the village of Glyky," said that prelate with great 
 gravity, " runs a small rivulet which supplied the inhabitants of the dis- 
 trict with excellent water, until a fierce dragon, with fiery eyes and 
 poisonous breath, taking up his residence at its source infected the 
 stream to such a degree that all who drank of it immediately perished, 
 insomuch that the country became almost depopulated. In this ex- 
 tremity an ancient hermit, who for his extreme sanctity was reverenced 
 as a saint under the title of San Donato, mounted his ass, and armed 
 only with an osier twig undertook an expedition against the formidable 
 monster. The dragon, as soon as he espied his antagonist made fu- 
 riously at him, rolling volumes of flame and smoke from his nostrils: 
 then twisting his tail about the legs of the ass he was upon the point of 
 throwing both animal and rider to the ground, when the holy man call- 
 
 * Meletius in his account of Paramithia calls it Kd^poy rS 'Ayiu Aoyd-s, ro enroiov xhi napni/jv^la 
 \eytrat, di 1171-; t£>v T6okiov A'icwva, /'; oiroia ttjjotcdov V\vkv tKaXetro' (Mel. Geog. p. 317.) whore he 
 is certainly mi-taken, for Ai'rWd or A'.focdri is a district in which Glyky is situated at the bottom of 
 tliL' rocks o! Sili, and Paramithia never was called by either name, as I could learn in all the inquiries 
 I made at the place; bu' Meletius makes the river Acheron run from the heights of Paramithia, where 
 no river flows at all, and this has led him into the error. 
 
FORTRESS OF GLYKY AND ITS ALBANIAN COMMANDER. 309 
 
 ing aloud upon the name of the Panaghia, smote the beast on the 
 head with his osier twig and killed him on the spot : then advancing to 
 the stream where a concourse of people had collected together, he took 
 up some water in his hand, and drinking it in their presence, cried 
 glyky, gb'kv (yxmi, yhmv), ' it is sweet, it is sweet;' from which action 
 the village of Glyky at the bottom of the Acherontian chasm is 
 said to derive its name. A consideration of all these circumstances 
 served to confirm us in our original conjecture ; for in this old 
 monastic tradition we still kept sight of Aidoneus, or Pluto, or Satan, in 
 the form of the old serpent, whose poisonous breath in the rites of 
 paganism infected with deadly venom the water of life, until its sweet- 
 ness ami salubrity was restored by the holy saints and martyrs of the 
 Christian faith. We concluded therefore that one of these pious men 
 having established a monastery upon the ruins of the pagan temple, 
 had not given, but received his name from the district in which it was 
 situated, a name which had descended through all the different ages of 
 superstition down to the present time, from that Aidoneus, who, in the 
 very district from which he carried off the daughter of Ceres, is com- 
 memorated in a similar manner; for there exists at this day a small 
 town in the vicinity of Enna which bears the appellation of Aidone*. 
 
 From the ruins we advanced to a strong fort built by the vizir about 
 half a mile distant from the village, where we were received with 
 great civility by the Albanian governor, a man who had been en- 
 gaged in the seventeen years war of Suli, and who amused us with 
 many interesting events relating to that eventful history. At dinner we 
 drank the waters of the Acheron, which have either been much misre- 
 presented, or if they ever were bitter have entirely changed their 
 nature, being now extremely cool and agreeable to the taste. Though 
 we were much fatigued by yesterday's journey, not one of the party 
 
 * Vid. D'Orville, Sic. p. 160. 
 
3i0 VILLAGE OF POTAMIA. 
 
 could obtain the least sleep during the night, owing to myriads of 
 vermin which haunt every Albanian dwelling, but more especially the 
 forts and quarters of the soldiery. We therefore rose before the sun 
 and pitched our tent amongst the ruins of the Plutonian temple 
 upon the bank of the river. After breakfast we set out to make an 
 excursion through the plain of Phanari, in search of the famed Ache- 
 rusian Lake, from whence we knew we could not be far distant by the 
 description of Thucydides, which also plainly designates the relative 
 situation of the Acheron and Thyamis, by many travellers and geo- 
 graphers so strangely confounded. — His words are these: — 'Op^ovrat 
 
 £f Xctutpiov T»if Qi<nr purlin; yt)?* £fi <5t MfA^v xoct ■sroXn; uir\f> »vth xIitoli aisa SaXairirnj 
 iv t« EA<xi«tkJ» t»k QurirpuTtios 'E<pv^' 'i^inn S\ nag aur^i/ A^ffao-t'a Ai/ai/h k tux SaAaso"- 
 eotv' iia. $\ rri; Qio-rrewTiios 'A%ipuv Trora,f/.os piwv itrfiaWu E(j avrriv atp a xcct tw 
 'nru\ivpla.v &*«> p£' $* *ai 0u«ju»; -mnxfj-cn; opi'^WK rriv QtinrpUTiSix. xa» Kirpinii/ »V evtoj 
 it axpcc ocvij^u to Xiifj.ipiov. (JLlb. 1. Cap. 40. ) 
 
 Descending for a short distance along the right bank of the Acheron 
 we left it where it makes a bend to the S. W. and soon arrived at the 
 village of Potamia, more rude and miserable in appearance than one 
 of Otaheite or New Zealand. The best of its houses are constructed 
 of hurdles, one side of which is left open to the inclemency of the 
 seasons and the sight of passengers, where the inmates may be seen 
 huddled together with their pigs and other domestic animals almost 
 in a state of nudity. Some of their huts actually consist only of 
 branches of trees half cut through, which being turned down and 
 fastened to the ground form a kind of tent, to which the trunk of 
 the tree serves as a pole, but in which one would suppose it impossible 
 for human beings to exist. Notwithstanding all this apparent misery 
 the village had a curious and picturesque appearance, being very large 
 and intersected with numerous green alleys covered with vines, shaded 
 by trees of every description, and adorned with a vast quantity of 
 flowers for the nourishment of bees, which every family appeared 
 to cultivate. Their hives were of the most simple construction, con- 
 
CONVENT OF ST. GEORGE-MONASTERY OF ST. JOHN. 311 
 
 sisting merely of hollow cylindrical pieces of wood placed upon a 
 bench, and covered at the top with a tile. Leaving Potamia we 
 passed over a marsh or bog formed by the overflowing of the river 
 Vav&, which is probably the Cocytus of antiquity*. It flows from be- 
 low the mountains of Margariti, opposite Paramithia, and after skirting 
 the opposite side of the plain empties itself into the Acheron at a 
 small distance from its mouth below the village of Tcheuknides. Having 
 passed this marsh, not without some danger of suffocation, we found 
 in the midst of a beautiful grove, not a palaio-castro as we had been 
 led to expect, but an ancient Greek church and the remains of a mo- 
 nastery dedicated to St. George: it was built probably during the trouble- 
 some times of the Lower Empire, like many of our English convents, 
 in this inaccessible situation, for the sake of security. Erom hence we 
 toiled over the roots of the Tzamouriot hills to a lake whose super- 
 fluous waters are carried off by a catabothron or subterranean channel 
 into the great marsh near Porto Phanari ; but this we soon perceived 
 was not the lake of which we were in search; we therefore made 
 towards a high projecting point of land, at the extremity of which, 
 overlooking the plain, stands the deserted monastery of St. John, built 
 within the peribolus of an ancient Greek temple of very fine Cyclopean 
 masoaryf. The view from hence of the plain, with its majestic circle 
 of mountains, of Porto Phanari and the Ionian Sea interspersed with 
 islands is extremely beautiful. Nothing of the monastery is preserved 
 but its chapel ; at the altar we observed several pairs of crutches left 
 there by credulous devotees, who ascribed the cure of their mala- 
 
 * Pausanias. in his description of the Acheron, intimates that the Cocytus also flows in the same 
 plain — " Trpoc ci rrj KiKvpu) Xifit/t) tc e«v ' Ayepnola KaKufitvj}, Kit irorayurie 'A^fipiov pit Sc Kai KwKvrog 
 v$Mp ciTtpni<TT(iToi'" and no other river except the Acheron, now called the worafti r« 2»\i, and the 
 Vava is to be discovered in the Phanari. The very appellation Vava (fiafia), which is an expression 
 of grief or aversion, seems to strengthen the conjecture, and not only this, but the water of the Vava 
 exactly coincides with the expression icwp aTipiri^arov, for it flows slowly over a deep muddy soil, im- 
 bibing noxious qualities from innumerable weeds upon its banks, and forms greatest part of the Malaria 
 of the plain. 
 
 + The specimen given in vol, i. p. 214, is taken from this peribolus. 
 
312 GKEEK PAPAS. 
 
 dies to the miraculous intervention of the saint. Probably this very 
 spot on which we stood was the great Necyomanteum, or place for 
 evocation of the dead, so celebrated in the early periods of Grecian 
 history ; for it is close to Cichyrus, and Cichyrus was the very capital of 
 Aidoneus. Herodotus informs us that it stood amongst the Thes- 
 protians on the banks of Acheron, and at the same time relates 
 a curious story of Periander tyrant of Corinth, who sent hither to 
 consult the shade of his wife Melissa*. Pausanias also makes mention 
 of it, and says that the adventure of Orpheus was referred by some to 
 a journey which the poet made to this oracular shrine for evoking the 
 spirit of Eurydice. 
 
 A papas or priest, who was well acquainted with the topography 
 of the place, pointed out to us the real situation of the Acherusian 
 Lake, which appeared at this distance like a small copse of underwood : 
 he offered at the same time to conduct us thither by the nearest route, 
 as the roads along this part of the Phanari are difficult and dangerous, 
 on account of numerous bogs and marshes. Before we proceeded 
 with our intelligent guide in this direction, we accompanied him to a 
 very ancient palaio-castro, about half a mile distant behind the con- 
 vent, the Avails of which, though for the most part they lie in a con- 
 fused mass of ruin, may be distinctly traced in a circular figure; 
 those parts which remain perfect exhibiting a specimen of masonry 
 apparently more rude even than Tiryns itself, though the blocks used 
 in the construction are not of so large dimensions. The annexed sketch 
 will give the reader some idea of their antiquity. 
 
 * Herod, lib. v. c. 92. irijx^avTi yap ol is Otmrpumis tV 'A^tpoiTa iroTafiby ayyt\»c fa\ tu 
 Ne/cvo/iavrijioj', &c. Besot, c. xxx. 3. 
 
RUINS OF CICHYRUS OR EPHYRE. 313 
 
 Ancient CyclopSan Wall at Cichyrut or Epkyrc. 
 
 I suppose this to have been the ancient city of Cichyrus or Ephyre, 
 not only from the situation assigned to it by Thucydides in the 
 passage above quoted, but from one of Strabo, which on several ac- 
 counts is worthy of insertion : 
 
 "E7T£iTa OCXpX XtljAtglOV KXt TAllXUf AlftJIK, £lf Iv £f*(3«AX£l 'Aj^EfMV 7T0T«jlt0f, (itUII iX T»)C 
 
 Av£f80"i'ac Xt/Avnt, >t*» Siyoj^tvo<; 7rA£iKf 7rOTajt*8? ai(-( xai yAvxan/EiK rov koXtto\i' pit it xai 
 ©ua^ou? 7rXri<r{oi/' 'T-n-tpxurxi it tutu /Av T8 koAttis Ktp^ufoj, )i Trgolepov Efvpx, iroXu; 
 &t<T7rpuTUv' t» Je xara Bsd'AcJIev l' $oiync>T iyyvg it Tri? Ki^J))8 TroXiyjuov B»^«i7iov 
 KxTiru-rrdiuv, [Atxpoi/ virlp t*ij S'aXaTTHj 01/ xai EA«T|iia, xaj Hoa/ioria, xai Banai sk 
 
 unroyal?.. (L. vii. p. 324.) 
 
 The district anciently called Elaiatis, from the olive trees it produced, 
 and in which Ephyre was situated, is still noted for the excellence of that 
 plant which confers so many benefits upon the human race. The city 
 was anciently celebrated for its poisons, in search of which Ulysses is 
 brought here by Homer. It is said to have been taken and its king Phi- 
 leus slain by Hercules (Od. « 259, p. 328. Diod. Sic. 1. 1. p. 281), and 
 within its walls, according to Pausanias, Theseus and Pirithous were 
 kept as prisoners of war by King Aidoneus, after the failure of their at- 
 tempt to carry off the beauteous Proserpine. Pirithous died in confine- 
 ment; but Theseus was liberated at the intercession of Hercules, probably 
 in return for some service performed, or in token of hospitality, according 
 to a custom still prevalent in these semi-barbarous countries. 
 
 Returning to the monastery we descended into the plain, and having 
 
 vol. it. s s 
 
314 ACHERUSIAN LAKE. 
 
 crossed the Cocytus by a lofty stone bridge, arrived at length upon 
 the borders of the Acherusian Lake. Its site is only to be discovered 
 by the willows and alders, intermingled with reeds and all sorts of aqua- 
 tic plants, which grow to a great height and almost entirely choke up 
 the water. Yet there are many channels in this morass through which 
 the peasants pass in boats for the purpose of cutting reeds and faggots, 
 catching eels of an immense size, and taking the eggs or young of 
 wild fowl. Its length from the spot where it absorbs the waters of 
 the Acheron till it again disgorges them is nearly two miles. It emits 
 no pestilential vapour, although the malaria in all parts of the plain 
 of Phanari is very abundant, from the great accumulation of vegetable 
 matter and stagnant water: its destructive effects are perceptible in 
 the sallow and emaciated countenances of the surrounding peasantry. 
 Hence probably it was that the ancients, ignorant of the natural 
 causes of disease, transferred the miasmata of the plain to the Plutonian 
 Lake, and represented it as emitting a deadly effluvia. 
 
 It has been made a subject of discussion how this lake received its 
 appellation, as well as the Acheron and Cocytus, or how this particu- 
 lar district became, celebrated for the residence of Pluto and Charon, 
 and for other circumstances intimately connected with Grecian fable. 
 The general conclusion has been that the early Greeks established these 
 topographical situations of the infernal rivers and the mansions of the 
 dead on the utmost verge of civilized Europe, and as population 
 increased, constantly placed them further westward " irfa «x T *» Io-ti^s 
 S-e3," that being the direction in which civilization extended itself. 
 But on this point I rather incline to the opinion of Mr. Bryant, who 
 supposes that the Cuthite or Ammonian colonists in the different places 
 to which they emigrated established not only the idolatrous rites but 
 the appellations also of various districts of the Memphian plains, those 
 regions so fertile in all the gloomy horrors of Egyptian superstition. 
 Hence k is that we find an Acherusia in Pontus, from whence Hercules 
 was supposed to have brought up Cerberus from the shades below : 
 1 
 
CONJECTURES ON ITS MYTHOLOGY. 315 
 
 (Diod. Sic. lib. xiv.) an Acheron in Apulia, where Alexander King of 
 Epirus lost his life through the ambiguity of an oracle : an Aver- 
 nus and Cocytus on the Campanian shores : an Acheron in Elis, men- 
 tioned by Strabo, connected with the worship of Pluto, Ceres, and Pro- 
 serpine, and another celebrated by Apollonius Rhodius, in the ter- 
 ritory of the Mariandyni. The region around the catacombs of 
 Egypt was called the Acherusian or Acheronian plain*: here the 
 bodies of kings and princes were deposited in superb mausoleums ; 
 here also stood temples in which the rites of fire-worship were exer- 
 cised, expiatory sacrifices performed, and judgment passed upon 
 the characters of the deceased. As these dark and silent abodes 
 were inviolable, and the daring intruder would have met with certain 
 punishment, the Egyptians were anxious to be entombed there, and it 
 became a general custom to transport the bodies of their friends to 
 this burial place; for which purpose it was necessary to pass over the 
 lakes and canals which separated it from Memphis, which were cut 
 originally to> convey materials for the construction of that ancient 
 city, and received their names from the temples on their banks. 
 Hence arose the notion of the infernal rivers, of the judgment of 
 Minos and Rhadamanthus, and of Charon's feef, which was a remu- 
 neration paid to the ferryman of a temple on the brink of a canal, and 
 which, small as it was, must have augmented greatly the revenue of the 
 priests. The beauty of the plains beyond the catacombs, intersected 
 by canals which covered them with luxuriant foliage and eternal 
 verdure, gave rise to the Elysian fields and the mansions of the blessed. 
 Orpheus, Homer, and the early poets of Greece, conversant as they 
 were with the ceremonies of Egypt, and acquainted with its topo- 
 
 * Diodorus Sic. lib. i. 
 
 The Egyptian Acheron is also mentioned in some ancient Sibylline verses quoted by Clem. Alexand. 
 Cohort, p. 44. 
 
 + This fee amongst the Greeks was an obolus put into the mouth of the deceased. "£l<re ktruh'a.v tiq 
 inro&dvr] tuiv oiKtiwv, Trpuira fitv (filpovTtg 6/BoXov te to aro/jta KaredriKav ciurj) fiHrvov tu *-<y>-ifyi« rijtr 
 vavTikiag ytvr\aofiivov. (Luc. Dial, de Luctu.) 
 
 s s 2 
 
316 ANCIENT CITY OF BUCHETIUM. 
 
 graphy, immortalized both in their noble poetry, and the Ammonian 
 colonists, addicted to the religion of their native country, instituted 
 similar rites and attached similar names to certain situations in the 
 regions to which they emigrated. 
 
 That an Ammonian colony of Cyclopes settled in Thesprotia seems 
 evident from the very ancient Cyclopean walls which we discovered in 
 the neighbourhood ; and, as was the case at Hermione, which we know 
 to have been a Cyclopean foundation and to have contained an Ache- 
 rusian lake with a temple dedicated to Pluto, (Pausan. 1. ii. c. 35.) so it 
 is probable that they built here a temple to the same God (that is, to 
 Achor-on, the sun, under the title of Orcus or Pluto) and instituted the 
 rites of fire-worship in his honour*. These subjects however I am very 
 ready to confess are far beyond my comprehension, and their elucida- 
 tion requires an extensive knowledge of Oriental languages and mytho- 
 logy. 
 
 Leaving the Acherusian lake we bent our steps towards the ruins of 
 Buchetium, which are about one mile distant: they are situated upon 
 a beautiful conical rock near the right bank of the Acheron, and the 
 Cyclopean Avails, constructed with admirable exactitude in the second 
 style of ancient masonry, still remain in a high state of preservation: 
 they have served in many places for the substruction of more modern 
 ramparts built by the Catalans or some other tribes who have possessed 
 the country; " mean reparations upon mighty ruins." In some parts 
 this ancient work remains to the height of ten or fifteen feet, contain- 
 ing several fine towers and gateways. Two regular lines encircle the 
 hill, one at the bottom and another near the top, which latter encloses 
 also a fort or citadel : at the bottom, on the south side, run out some 
 strong transverse lines, between which the modern village stands, 
 
 * The learned reader is desired to take notice that the wife of Periander, whose shade that tyrant 
 tent to invoke in the Acherontian Necyomanteum was named Melissa ; and he is referred to vol. i. 
 p. 377 of this work for some elucidation of this circumstance, which tends to strengthen the conjectures 
 >hai have been here formed respecting the origin of these rites and ceremonies and names. 
 
ANCIENT CITY OF BUCHETIUM. 317 
 
 called Castri, the inhabitants of which having perhaps never seen a 
 Frank before, flocked around us in great numbers and annoyed us 
 much by their curiosity. 
 
 I have no doubt but that this city is the ancient Buchetium, from 
 the situation assigned it, near to Ephyre, by Strabo in the passage 
 above quoted, as well as from its appearance, which seems to have 
 been the origin of its appellation. The curious and effectual man- 
 ner of its fortifications admirably adapted it as a place of secu- 
 rity for the confinement of prisoners : its utility in this point of vieAV 
 seems to have struck the Epirotian allies of the Roman consul, M. Ful- 
 vius Nobilior, who in the first instance thought of sending hither 
 some iEtolian ambassadors whom they had captured near the island 
 of Cephalenia, though they afterwards immured them in the for- 
 tress of Charadra*. Perhaps a better specimen of ancient military 
 architecture no where exists than that which this castellated hill exhi- 
 bits: it is picturesque in the highest degree, and is surrounded by four 
 other conical mounds embellished with Albanian villages, and rising 
 like isolated rocks above the level surface of a calm sea : there can be 
 no doubt but that the salt waves once beat against them: at that time 
 what a magnificent scene must this inland gulf, surrounded by its 
 mountain barriers, have displayed ! 
 
 From hence our road lay chiefly along the banks of the Acheron 
 which here becomes a fine pellucid river of no contemptible magnitude. 
 The shades of night closed around us long before we arrived at our tent, 
 which being lighted up by lamps within, not only served as a beacon to 
 direct us in our path, but gave us comfortable assurance of an excel- 
 lent meal after the fatigues of the day. Upon our arrival we were not 
 disappointed. Antonietti had well employed his talents in the cu- 
 linary art, and the wine of Paramithia is excellent. The old gover- 
 nor, who accepted our invitation to dinner, forgot the rigid rules of 
 
 * See Polybius (lib. xxvii. c. 9) who calls it Bucbetum. 
 
318 FINE NIGHT-SCENE. 
 
 Mahometanism when he tasted it, and we sat to a late hour dis- 
 cussing the battles of Suli and the glory of Ali Pasha. As we ex- 
 pressed our intention of sleeping under the tent, the commandant 
 ordered out all the garrison, which consisted of about sixty Alba- 
 nians, directing them to kindle several large fires, and bivouac upon the 
 spot; intimating at the same time that if the least harm should hap- 
 pen to us the vizir would put every soul of them to death. In this 
 manner we went to rest surrounded by those wild mountaineers, and 
 lulled by the murmurs of the Acherontian waves. As the novelty of 
 this situation kept me some time awake, I arose from my bed and 
 seated myself at the door of the tent, to contemplate a scene so full of 
 interest. The night was calm and tranquil, the air so clear, and the 
 stars so bright, that I could easily discern the grand broken outline of 
 the Suliot hills, with their craggy precipices and castellated forts : the 
 lower regions were involved in deepest gloom, except where the broad 
 stream of Acheron reflected the red glare of our Albanian watch-fires : 
 these rendered a considerable space around the tent as bright as day, 
 including the prostrate columns of the Plutonian temple and the tot- 
 tering walls of San Donato, on which were delineated the portraits of 
 ancient saints and martyrs, and other subjects taken from super- 
 stition's legends. Not the least interesting objects in the scene were 
 the Albanian guards, stretched upon the bare ground, with ataghans 
 and pistols in their belts, and sheltered from the dews of night by 
 their thick fleecy capotes: couched at their feet lay a great number of 
 large Molossian dogs, their faithful companions both in peace and 
 war. 
 
 In this calm of nature and silence of the night my mind strayed back 
 to scenes of historic interest, and cast a retrospective glance over the 
 strange events which had occurred upon this theatre during the succes- 
 sive ages of mankind. It was a spot which Mythology had selected as 
 the scene of her wildest fantasies, and in the innermost recesses of these 
 mountains Ambition's cruel satellites had forced the last holds of Gre- 
 
POETICAL ADDRESS TO THE ACHERON. 319 
 
 cian Liberty. Deeply impressed with the fatal effects Of tyranny and the 
 still more degrading vassalage to which superstition subjects her votaries, 
 I took up my journal and threw together a few thoughts by way of poe- 
 tical address to the Acheron, which was flowing near my feet: the 
 reader will probably pardon its insertion, since 1 have not before ob- 
 truded any similar effusions upon his notice. 
 
 The sun is set, and solemn silence reigns 
 
 Above, around, on Acherusia's plains; 
 
 Save where on Suliot hills the watch-dogs bay 
 
 Some tawny robber prowling for his prey, 
 
 Or distant Acheron from rock to rock 
 
 Bounds with impetuous force and thundering shock. 
 
 Hail Acheron! thou dark mysterious stream! 
 
 Hail ! tho' thy terrors like a frightful dream 
 
 Be vanish'd : tho' the fearless eagle soar 
 
 In cWfcing flight around th' Aornian shore, 
 
 And scare with rapid lightnings of his eys 
 
 The tender broods that in thy coverts lie: 
 
 Tho' thy transparent waves no longer glide 
 
 Beneath the granite temple's lofty pride ; 
 
 Nor the black victim with his reeking blood 
 
 Stain the bright surface of that crystal flood, 
 
 Which plunging headlong to Tartarean night 
 
 Sprang back in horror to the realms of light, 
 
 Still hail immortal stream! thy mystic name 
 
 Shines in the records of Hellenic fame : 
 
 And he whose soul the flame of genius fires, 
 
 Whom rapture loves, or solemn thought inspires, 
 
 On the green margin of thy waves reclin'd 
 
 May tune to meditation sweet his mind, 
 
 Or 'mid thy sounding rocks and roaring flood, 
 
 Dark Suli's crags and Kiaffa's night of wood, 
 
 From Fancy's treasure steal ideal bliss, 
 
 And call thy spirits from their dark abyss, 
 
 While to Imagination's mirror true 
 
 Dim shadows of past ages start to view ; 
 
 Ages that toil'd to Glory's height sublime, 
 
 Then floated downward on the stream of time ; 
 
3<20 CURIOUS DREAM OF THE AUTHOR. 
 
 That noiseless stream which on its current bears 
 All human joys and grandeur, woes and cares ; 
 Still rolling onward to a shoreless sea, 
 The boundless ocean of Eternity. 
 
 When I retired to rest, the objects which had employed my waking 
 thoughts still continued to occupy my dreams, and a strange species of 
 pantomimic scenery presented itself to my imagination, wherein Pluto 
 and Proserpine, Hercules, Theseus, and Pirithous, Roman conquerors 
 and Greek priests, Ali Pasha and San Donato, with Cerberus and the 
 old Dragon, all played conspicuous characters. These personages, 
 after various evolutions, were collected together, as I thought, upon the 
 steepest crags of Suli, where the rock suddenly opening and vomiting 
 forth a tremendous flame, they were all swallowed up in the unfathom- 
 able abyss. I awoke with horror, and found that the sun had been a 
 long time above the horizon and was darting his fervid rays upon the 
 tent immediately over my head. We now arose and prepared for our 
 ascent up the defile. After bidding adieu to our worthy host, and 
 distributing a present among the garrison, who continued to pay us 
 the compliment of firing off their pistols till we were out of sight, 
 we advanced almost as far as the village of Glyky, then crossed 
 the Acheron by a ford, and soon entered into the vast and gloomy 
 chasm of the Cassopaean mountains. The scenery increased in gran- 
 deur as Ave proceeded, and the pass was bordered on each side by per- 
 pendicular rocks, broken into every form of wild magnificence: 
 through these some terrible convulsion of nature had opened a 
 passage for the Acheron, whose waters thundering along their deep 
 and rocky bed, formed, as they fell from crag to crag, a tumultuous 
 kind of melody, admirably in unison with the scene. As the notes of 
 a bugle-horn, which we blew at intervals during our ascent, were rever- 
 berated in long protracted echoes among the cavities of the defile, I 
 almost expected to see a spectre starting from the dark abyss, and ad- 
 dressing us in the words of the poet : 
 
ARRIVAL AT THE GREAT FORTRESS OF KIAFFA. 301 
 
 Adsum atque advenio Acheronte vix via alta atque ardua 
 
 Per speluncas saxeis structas asperis pendentibus 
 
 Maxumis; ubi rigida constat crassa caligo Inferum, 
 
 Unde animae excitantur obscura umbra aperto ostio 
 
 Alti Acherontis. 
 
 Enniifr. Cic. T. Q.l.i. Ifi. 
 
 In two hours we arrived at the bottom of the huge precipice of Kiaffa, 
 whose summits are crowned by the grand serai and forts of the pasha. 
 Here the deep valley of the Acheron takes a bend to the right, and a 
 tributary stream flows through a similar chasm on the left, from the 
 Paramithian district: we recrossed the river and began to ascend 
 a narrow winding path cut on the side of precipices, so narrow as not 
 to admit two persons to ride abreast: a very small number of men 
 might here stop the advance of an army. In less than half an hour 
 we arrived in sight of Kiaffa, which was one of the four principal 
 towns in the Suliot district, and at a greater distance on the left per- 
 ceived Kako-Suli itself, the capital of the republic, now almost entirely 
 reduced to ruins ; then passing under the fort of Kunghi, which the 
 monk Samuel blew up into the air by setting fire to the magazine, we 
 came under the heights and in view of the grand serai and for- 
 tress: its battlements were lined with Albanian troops, who upon our 
 appearance saluted us with a discharge of cannon and a feu de joic 
 of small arms, the echo of which among the surrounding rocks and 
 mountains was uncommonly fine. Leaving the deserted village of 
 Kiaffa on the left we ascended by a narrow steep path to the 
 castle gate, where we were received with another discharge of fire- 
 arms and conducted by the governor's son, in the absence of his father, 
 to the state apartments, which had been prepared for our reception, 
 the commander of the fort at Glyky having sent forward an express the 
 day before to give notice of our visit. 
 
 The singular and striking features of the wild mountain scenery 
 around, kept us for a time almost breathless with astonishment: its 
 huge broken masses, rocks, precipices, and chasms, appeared like the 
 
 VOL. II. T T 
 
322 SCENERY DESCRIBED— ADVENTURE OF THE AUTHOR. 
 
 ruins of a disjointed world, Or like that picture of poetic confusion 
 where Pelion, Ossa and Olympus are heaped upon each other by the 
 arms of Titanic monsters. Strongly impressed with the novelty and 
 sublimity of the view 1 endeavoured to delineate it from the window of 
 the fortress at which we were seated : I got the outline correct, though I 
 can lay but little claim to the beautiful representation of this curious 
 district given in the annexed plate*; the reader will there observe that 
 the highest mountains form the eastern barrier of the Paramithian plain. 
 The ruined village reclining upon the height beneath them is the unfor- 
 tunate Kako-Suli, once the capital of this republic ; that which is partly 
 seen in the vale below the castle is Kiaffa ; and the tower in front which 
 crowns a conical hill between the castle and Kako-Suli, is the fort of 
 Aghia Paraskevl upon the top of Kunghi. After dinner, as the evening 
 was delightful, I took a lonely walk in the environs of the castle, listen- 
 ing to the waving of the woods and distant murmurs of the Acheron 
 amidst these impressive solitudes: as I went along connecting their 
 scenes with objects of classical celebrity and peopling them with the 
 imaginary personages of poetic fable, my eye was struck with something 
 white near the path, which upon inspection I discovered to be several 
 bones which had once belonged to a human skeleton : being in a 
 musing humour I sat down upon the spot, whilst my thoughts turned to 
 the calamities of this afflicted country and the heroic efforts made by 
 those among her valiant sons of whom the skeleton before me might 
 have been one : under this impression I covered it with stones and some 
 green turf which 1 cut from the bank with my travelling sabre, repeat- 
 ing over it as the most appropriate requiem, those beautiful lines of our 
 pathetic bard: 
 
 O for the death of those 
 
 Who for their country die ! 
 Sink on her bosom to repose 
 
 And triumph where they lie ! 
 
 * The fine finish of this is due to the pencil of Mr. Cockerell. 
 
SUICIDE COMMITTED BY AN ALBANIAN PALIKAR. 323 
 
 Unfortunate Suliots! the time may yet arrive when your example shall 
 animate the great and good in the glorious contest for Liberty ; when 
 the association of your martial deeds shall shed an interest over these 
 Acherontian rocks far above that which their connexion with a fabulous 
 mythology can bestow ; when the regenerated Muse of Greece shall 
 deck in all the grace of language and imagery of fancy, those in- 
 cidents which these pages have recorded in the plain garb of historical 
 narration. 
 
 I extended my walk so far that it was nearly dark before I re- 
 turned to the castle; there I found Mr. Parker with several of its 
 inmates enjoying his pipe before an excellent fire, which the cold 
 night air in this lofty mountainous region rendered almost indis- 
 pensable. A fine young Albanian palikar gave us several animating 
 descriptions of the Suliot contests, and promised next morning 
 to point out the places where they occurred. When the evening 
 was somewhat advanced our beds were spread out upon the splendid 
 cushions of the divan and we retired to rest. 
 
 May 15. — Anxious to make my excursions as extensive as possible 
 over these interesting scenes, I arose soon after the sun and inquired 
 for the palikar who had promised to be my guide : but he was engaged 
 in carrying out the dead body of one of his Albanian comrades who 
 had shot himself in the night. This was the first time I ever had known 
 or heard of the crime of suicide in this country. The incident however 
 made very little impression upon the minds of the garrison, who 
 seemed to think that any one to whom life became a burden had 
 a right to throw it off at pleasure : no one could assign a reason for 
 this rash act of the deceased, who had been observed of late to indulge 
 in frequent fits of melancholy : he was a tried palikar, and had been 
 deeply engaged in the Suliot wars : perhaps the acts which he was 
 then obliged to perpetrate lay heavy on his soul ; perhaps conscience 
 shook over him her torturing lash in the dead hour of night, and some 
 pale imaginary spectre of an innocent victim, like the Gardikiote 
 
 x t 2 
 
324 ASCENT TO THE HIGHEST SUMMIT OF THE SULIOT MOUNTAINS. 
 
 which disturbed the rest of Mustafa, drove sleep far away from hi3 
 eyelids ! Be this as it may, the manner of his death did not 
 preclude the rites of Turkish burial : his corpse was placed under a 
 shed adjoining the castle, whilst a sheik who lived in one of the re- 
 paired habitations of Kako-Suli, was sent for to perform the previous 
 ablutions. When I returned from my early excursion I found the 
 holy man arrived and busily occupied washing the body in a large 
 trough with warm water and soap: he continued for two hours in 
 this employment : the wound was just under the left breast and the 
 ball had probably penetrated the very source of life : the countenance 
 was void of distortion and retained that calm serenity in death which 
 is said always to ensue from fatal wounds by gun-shot. After ablution 
 the body was sewed up in a coarse cloth for interment in the cemetery 
 at Kako-Suli. 
 
 When we had finished breakfast our host carried us round this forti- 
 fied serai or castle, which is built upon a fine isolated cliff, com- 
 manding the various avenues of its mountainous district and frowning 
 over the terrific chasm down which the Acheron pours an impetuous 
 torrent. In style of architecture it is somewhat similar to the great 
 palace of Litaritza; to which, although it yields in that part of the 
 edifice which is destined for a serai, it is vastly superior in its corres- 
 ponding fortifications. After we had taken a survey of the fortress I 
 determined to pursue the best plan I could devise for observing the 
 general configuration of this interesting tract of country, the direction of 
 its mountain ridges and valleys, the course of its rivers, and its relative 
 sitiaiion with regard to other districts. For this purpose I ascended with 
 Antonietti and our obliging palikar to the highest summit of the great 
 chain of mountains behind Kiaffa, which is called Raithovouni*. It 
 was a labour of two hours to accomplish this task; but the extent and 
 grandeur of the view when we arrived at the top fully recompensed us 
 
 * See the plate representing the exit of the Acheron. 
 
GRAND PANORAMIC VIEW. 325 
 
 for our toil. We could see from hence nearly the whole of Epirus, the 
 Acroceraunian hills, the Lake of Ioannina, and the distant Pindus in 
 its full extent : Arta with its lovely bay seemed to lie beneath us ; all 
 the scattered isles, rocks, and promontories of the Ionian Sea were 
 brought into view : but the most interesting prospect was that of the 
 Suliot district below us, the winding course of the Acheron, tremendous 
 chasms and ravines into which the light of day can scarcely penetrate, 
 precipices covered with thick woods and surmounted with forts and 
 castles, and the beautiful Acherusian plain, through which the river, 
 after its exit from these truly infernal regions, flows in the most grace- 
 ful curvature towards the sea. Having provided myself with paper 
 and pencil, I contrived to take that map-like sketch of the district 
 which the reader has seen at the head of the sixth chapter in this 
 volume*; but I experienced great difficulty in my operations from the 
 violence of the wind. Our conductor pointed out the place where the 
 traitor Botzari was defeated with his unworthy train, as well as many 
 other spots signalized by the Suliot combats: but the cold was too ex- 
 cessive in this lofty region to permit of our remaining long on the sum- 
 mit, and we soon descended again to the castle. From thence I did not 
 stir out again this evening, being greatly fatigued with my morning 
 excursions. 
 
 * In this little sketch are the two following inaccuracies : Avarico and Samoniva ought to change 
 places, and the river Bassa to be Vavk. These mistakes occurred from my residing at a distance from 
 the engraver, and not seeing the vignettes before they were struck off. 
 
Curious Grecian circular Arch in the Rw, 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Departure from Suli — District called Laka — Forests of Oaks in the Route 
 to Lelevo — Fire-flies — Route to Castri — Ruins — Albanian Wedding — 
 Route to the Village of St. George — Enormous Plane Trees — River of 
 Luro — Description of the great Aqueduct — Route to Eleftherochori — 
 Bridge of the Pasheena — Greek Monastery — Route through the Woods 
 of Art a — Guard of Albanian Peasantry — Dogana and Canal of Luro 
 — Castle of Rogous — Serpents — Cangia — Traces of the Aqueduct — 
 Luro — Arrival at Camarina — Captain Giannaki — Visit to the ancient 
 Ruins at Rhiniassa — Cyclopean Walls, Citadel, Theatre, Plan of the 
 City, tyc. — Route through Nicopolis to Prevesa — Visit to AH Pasha's 
 Frigate — Punta and Fortress — Excursions to Nicopolis and Santa 
 Maura — Difficulty in procuring Means of Conveyance — Departure 
 from Prevesa. 
 
 JM AY 16. — We arose very early this morning, and having distributed 
 a present among the garrison, departed through the castle gate under 
 a farewel salute of artillery and muskets, accompanied by a small party 
 
DISTRICT OF LAKA— FORESTS OF OAKS. 327 
 
 of Albanian palikars. We proceeded in the first instance to the almost 
 deserted site of Kako-Suli, amidst whose ruined habitations a single 
 Turkish mosque rears the crescent triumphant over the cross: from 
 thence we returned upon our track, and passing through Kiaffa and 
 Samoniva arrived at the village of Avarico, near the defile of Klissura, 
 which is now commanded by the guns of the great fortress. The 
 scenery here assumes every feature of awful magnificence, where the 
 gloom of woods, the foaming of torrents, and the precipitous nature of 
 the rocks cannot be surpassed. The road was so extremely rough and 
 bad that we were obliged to descend from horseback and walk many 
 miles of this day's journey. In about four hours we emerged from 
 these gloomy Acherontian defiles where the mountain chain of Suli 
 ends and the district called Laka commences. Here the river winds 
 in the most tortuous course imaginable, making several peninsulas, in 
 which the isthmus is not so broad as a stone's throw ; on one of these 
 spots we eat our dinner under the shade of a noble plane-tree, smoked 
 our pipes, and slept for about an hour. 
 
 After this refreshment we parted with the Albanians and pursued our 
 course for about an hour in a S. S. E. direction to the village of Jermi, 
 which had been burnt by the vizir in his Suliot wars : from hence we 
 had a charming view down a long valley quite to the gulf of Arta, in 
 which the extreme softness of its features was rendered more pleasing 
 by the contrast of that terrific scenery we had so lately quitted. In the 
 course of another hour we took a more easterly direction over some low 
 hills and then pursued our way under a magnificent canopy formed by 
 the extended arms of aged oaks which appeared coeval with the forests 
 of Dodona : here grows some of the finest timber in the world, still 
 spared by the axe, which may yet be destined to bear the flag of rege- 
 nerated Greece over the waves that now wash her desolated shores. 
 After having performed a long journey under a brilliant sun, the cool- 
 ness of these over-arching groves was quite delightful. The evening 
 shades had descended before Ave arrived at Lelevo, a large village 
 
328 FIRE-FLIES— RUINS OF CASTRI. 
 
 pleasantly situated in a fertile plain nearly covered with walnut-trees 
 of an astonishing growth: under the branches of one of these which 
 shaded the cottage of our host, we spread out and eat our supper as 
 under a tent, whilst myriads of luciole, or fire-flics, flitting about in all 
 directions, gave us almost sufficient light by their vivid corruscations. 
 I never observed this insect at any other time or any other place in 
 Greece. In the village of Lelevo cherry-trees are very abundant, and 
 its pastures are most luxuriant; the cattle are generally of a white 
 colour. 
 
 Next morning we made an excellent breakfast upon cow's milk, this 
 being the only time we had met with it since we left England. The 
 village, according to vulgar tradition, is said to have received its ap- 
 pellation from the devil, who was caught here in the shape of a black 
 dog by a necromancer, who constructed the kamares, as they are 
 called, or the great aqueduct of Nicopolis. The conjuror having tied 
 an enchanted cord round the neck of his prisoner, forced him to 
 labour in this great work and to point out a level for the direction of the 
 water; but in the long struggle which took place before the black 
 architect could be subdued, he made all the hills resound with cries of 
 Lelevo, which, in the Albanian language, means " loose me," or " let 
 me go;" and hence the name of the village. Mr. Pouqueville having 
 informed us of the extreme beauty of the aqueduct and pointed out its 
 situation, we determined to deflect a little from our route for the pur- 
 pose of visiting it. 
 
 Proceeding for about one hour south along the plain of Lelevo we 
 arrived at the ruins of an ancient Epirotic city, called Castri, upon the 
 top of a beautiful hill almost two miles in circuit. The lower part of the 
 walls are built in the Pseudo-Cyclopean style, and like most ruins in 
 this country, exhibit remains of a superstructure of a much more mo- 
 dern date. This hill is covered with a vast variety of fine shrubs 
 and trees, which, intermingled with wild flowers and parasitical plants 
 hanging in festoons from the branches, or clinging to the ancient 
 
 2 
 
ALBANIAN WEDDING. 3q g 
 
 walls, would make it a most delightful retreat, did not danger lurk within 
 its recesses from the troops of brigands that frequently make it their head 
 quarters: in the rooms of a deserted monastery we observed the remains 
 of several fires over which these gentry had probably been dividing their 
 booty or regaling themselves after the toils of their profession. Whilst 
 my friend and myself, having left our attendants at the monastery, 
 were ranging about the turfy terraces and entangled thickets, we 
 were somewhat alarmed at hearing a long but interrupted fire of 
 musketry at the bottom of the hill, and began to think we had been too 
 rash in penetrating without invitation into the haunts of robbers ; but 
 upon advancing to that side whence the noise proceeded, we discovered 
 the retinue of an Albanian wedding in full procession returning from a 
 village church. The bride was seated astride upon a horse led by the 
 bridegroom; she was accompanied by several of her own sex with a 
 great crowd of men, all of whom at stated times fired off their pistols 
 and muskets in honour of the festive ceremony. After having watched 
 this merry train till they were hid by an intervening hill, we returned 
 to the monastery without having discovered any inscription or other 
 relic which might guide us to a knowledge of the site of Castri. In a 
 wall of the convent chapel we observed a very fine piece of marble cor- 
 nice which probably once adorned some ancient temple. Winding 
 down the hill we took a direction nearly north-east, and in about 
 an hour arrived on the banks of the river of Luro (rWp t5 a^o) 
 which some have called the Charadrus and others the Inachus, upon 
 the very fallible authority of Meletius, for that river took its rise 
 in Pindus and flowed near the Amphilochian Argos. I cannot find 
 it mentioned by any ancient author; but its beauty is so great that 
 I am surprised it has not been more particularized. The platani upon 
 its banks even force one to credit all the assertions respecting the 
 astonishing age to which these trees are said to attain: from their size 
 and venerable appearance one might almost suppose they had wit- 
 
 VOL. II. u u 
 
330 DESCRIPTION OF THE GREAT AQUEDUCT OF LURO. 
 
 nessed the reign of Pyrrhus, the celebration of the Augustan victory 
 and the devastations of the ferocious Attila. Many of them are quite 
 decayed, standing as it were by means of their bark, and would contain 
 at least twenty men within their hollow trunks. Plaving ascended up 
 the stream about two miles north, we crossed it over a natural bridge 
 of rock, beneath which the torrent, compressed into a narrow chan- 
 nel, roars like distant thunder under the feet of the passenger. The 
 village of Aghio Giorgios, or St. George, stands upon a rocky emi- 
 nence on the left bank, shaded with luxuriant foliage, and at a little 
 distance above it are two fine rows of arches built of Roman brick 
 thrown across the valley of the river Luro. The children of this place 
 had probably never seen a foreigner before, for they ran from us 
 screaming with all their might and main as if we had been monsters. 
 Under the conduct of the papas, who Avas only to be distinguished 
 from the poorest peasant by his beard, we visited the fountain, whose 
 abundant source springing out of a hard rock, once supplied the great 
 city of Nicopolis with water at the distance of near forty miles from the 
 spot. It is now diverted from its former channel and falls over rocks 
 in a broad picturesque cascade into the river. This water is said to 
 possess certain poisonous qualities: all our party sipped a little of it, and 
 certainly each person retained a very disagreeable taste in his mouth for 
 several hours afterwards. It must surely have changed its nature since 
 the time when the Romans taught it to flow in its artificial channel; or 
 else it may have deposited its nauseous ingredients in so long and 
 circuitous a course. Descending from this spring to the high bank of 
 the river we observed a deep broad channel cut in the rock, but now 
 dry, which led to the first row of arches thrown over the valley : I am 
 unable to conjecture what reason could have induced the architect to 
 carry on this channel for about fifty yards further to meet another 
 aqueduct built in a style of greater elegance than the former, with 
 which it. formed an angle on the opposite side of the river. If it had 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE GREAT AQUEDUCT OF LURO. 331 
 
 been to increase the volume of water one would suppose that might 
 have been done at a much less expence by enlarging the channel of the 
 first. As it is, the ruins of these two aqueducts, formed with double 
 rows of arches, bestriding the clear pellucid stream whose banks 
 are covered with the most splendid foliage, form a scene which is 
 both novel and picturesque. We descended down to the bed of the 
 river, and having eat our dinner under one of the alcoves, we after- 
 wards examined every part of the ruins in search of an inscription 
 which Mr. Pouqueville had informed us might be seen, but without 
 success. We then ascended to the top of the aqueduct to view the fine 
 scenery which the upper region of this superb valley affords in the most 
 agreeable combination of woods and rocks and water that can be ima- 
 gined. On one of the mountains that decorate the right bank of the 
 river we observed a channel cut in its side into which 
 the water was conveyed by the arches just described: 
 its height is between four and five feet and its breadth 
 nearly three : its form may be known from the section here 
 represented. 
 
 It is covered with a very fine stucco, and the external wall, where 
 the rock was cut away, is generally supported by small buttresses : it 
 has been broken open in many places, and was distinguishable in its 
 windings along the side of several hills which we passed in our ride 
 from Castri*. 
 
 * In a country not thoroughly explored, it must always be gratifying to a reader to compare the 
 accounts of different travellers : for this reason I give an extract from one of Mr. Jones's letters relating 
 to the tract we have just passed over. The letter addressed to Ali Pasha alluded to at the end, is one 
 which I wrote to the vizir in fulfilment of a promise which he exacted of me to give him a short detail 
 of our adventures from his dominions to our native land. 
 
 " From Eleftherochori we sent forward our baggage to Lelevo, and proceeded ourselves by a different 
 route, in order to visit the remains of the noble aqueduct which brought water to the city of Nicopolis 
 from a distance of forty miles. We sent two of our guards with the luggage, and took old Yusuf Aga 
 to accompany us. Indeed we were guards to ourselves, being armed a l'Albanaise with our sabres by 
 our sides and pistols in our belts, which by the bye would have been sufficient to have got us murdered 
 had we been really attacked. 
 
 v v 2 
 
332 ROUTE TO ELEFTHEROCHORI. 
 
 Having satisfied our curiosity we remounted our horses and departed 
 by a different route, nearly south, leaving the river winding through 
 
 " At the village of St. George the aqueduct crosses the Charadrus by two rows of arches which join at 
 an angle on the other side the valley : twelve arches are in a perfect state in one of these branches, 
 with twelve others above them of considerable size : the one which is thrown over the principal body of 
 the river is at least forty feet in span by thirteen in breadth. The view up the Charadrus from the top 
 of the broken arches, which I ascended, is inimitably grand : I endeavoured to make a sketch of it, but 
 the rain fell so fast that iny pencil was quite useless. At about fifty yards below the aqueduct the 
 river runs under the rocks in a most curious manner, and washes the roots of the largest plane-trees in 
 the world : we measured one and found it twelve yards in circumference, but we afterwards saw others 
 of much larger dimensions. Having contemplated this charming scenery till we were drenched with 
 rain we proceeded to the ruins of some ancient town called Castri, and from thence to Lelevo. From 
 Lelevo to Suli is an interesting ride ; but just as we were going to set out, a Turkish officer of the 
 vizir's waited upon us, and told us that the road was not safe with so small a guard ; and as we deemed 
 prudence the best part of courage, we determined to take another and rather a longer route, and got by 
 night to a village called Roumano. The best house in the village was a miserable hut. We there- 
 fore pitched our tent on the side of the mountain, which is called Voutzi, having mount Olitzika 
 immediately in front of us to the northeast. Soon after we arrived the inhabitants brought us by the 
 horns a laige goat, which we begged might be exchanged for a kid ; this was quickly produced, 
 and roasted whole by a large fire of wood close to our tent door. The Turk sitting cross-legged 
 and turning the kid on a large wooden spit, with the wild looking Albanians on one side of the fire, 
 and okl Yusuf Aga, with our other guards, on the other side, formed a curious scene, and would have 
 afforded no bad subject for a painting. 
 
 " We struck our tent early next morning, and ascending the mountain, entered into the extraordinary 
 regions of the Suliotes, rendered celebrated by the noble defence these brave mountaineers made against 
 the arms of Ali. We remained here a day, and went through some of the finest scenery in the world to 
 see the renowned river Acheron enter the great Suliot chasm. Next day we descended into this chasm 
 on our way to Glyky, where Ali has a Ion, and from thence traced the river up to the Acherusian 
 Lake, near which we visited the ruins of some old Greek town, to which Mr. Hughes gives the name 
 of Ephyre. 
 
 " Returning again to Glyky, we traversed the great and fertile plain of Paramithia to the fine Turkish 
 town of that name. From hence I meant to have crossed the river Kahunas, the Thyamis of antiquity, 
 to have visited the ruins of Pandosia, on the banks of that river, and to have proceeded from thence to 
 Philatis and Delvino ; but as we had not a bcuyourdee of the Pasha's (he being at Triccala) we did not 
 think it prudent. We therefore took the road to Ioannina, visiting on our way the ruins of Cassopaea, 
 where there is a theatre of beautiful Grecian architecture, the largest and most perfect existing in the 
 country. 
 
 " On our arrival at Ioannina we found the vizir returned from Triccala. We had sent forward a 
 servant from the village of Borelesa with our letters to Signore Colovo, his secretary, and upon our ar- 
 rival found the house of Mr. G. Foresti. the British minister, prepared for our reception (he being in 
 England). In the evening Signore Colovo waited upon us from the vizir, to compliment us upon our 
 arrival, and to know whether we were pleased with our house, &c. Next morning he waited upon us 
 again to say the vizir was ready to receive us, and we accompanied him to the palace, where we 
 were received by Ali in what is called his secret chamber. We found him seated on his divan quite 
 unattended except by a few Albanian guards outside the door. The room had but few ornaments, 
 and was by no means so splendid as some which I have since seen. He received us with an inclina- 
 tion of the body, putting his hand upon his heart with much grace and dignity, which is the Eastern man- 
 ner of salutation. After our letters of introduction had been read, he expressed much pleasure at see- 
 ing us in Ioannina, hoped that we had met with no difficulties on the road from Prevesa, and asked if 
 we were comfortably lodged, ice. &c. As we were drinking our coffee and smoking our long Turkish 
 
BRIDGE OF THE PASHEENA. 333 
 
 a valley on our right. In less than an hour however it again crossed our 
 path, at a spot where there is a very handsome bridge, called "The Bridge 
 of the Pasheena," because it was built by the wife of Hassan Pasha of Ioan- 
 nina : it is shaded by magnificent platani and elms, to which the vines 
 are married, and hang around them in the most graceful festoons. 
 We continued our journey in a direction S. S. W. through a kind of 
 prairie, covered with the richest verdure and adorned with every species 
 of flower and tree that can add beauty or grandeur to a scene. The 
 road soon led us between two ruined and almost contiguous churches 
 built of large Roman brick, and in the very best style of that, ma- 
 sonry : greatest part of their walls are still standing covered with ivy 
 and vines, and shaded by trees of astonishing magnitude; one of the 
 oaks measured twenty-seven feet five inches in girth, at the distance of 
 a yard from the ground ; but I saw others which appeared much 
 larger: the loaves too of these trees were of greater size than usual, 
 indicating the extraordinary fertility of the soil. 
 
 Our guides informed us that the larger church belonged to a monas- 
 ter}', in which there once dwelt a hundred caloyers ; and the founda- 
 tions of a more extensive edifice, apparent in the adjoining grove, 
 seemed to confirm their evidence. In this church there is a finely built 
 
 pipes, he asked us several questions respecting Lord Byron, Major Leake, Hobhouse, Hughes, &c. 
 I delivered to him Hughes's letter, with which he seemed much pleased, and asked me a great many 
 questions about him and his friend Mr. Parker. 
 " You already know the character of this man, 
 
 - - - - ' A man of war and woes; 
 
 Yet in his lineaments ye cannot trace, 
 While gentleness her milder radiance throws 
 
 Along that aged venerable face, 
 The deeds that lurk beneath, and stain him with disgrace.' 
 
 " He can make his countenance one of the most pleasing and alluring that I have ever seen, and 
 had I not known his character, I should have pronounced him the most humane sovereign in the 
 world. He showed us great attention and kindness, and promised us horses and every thing else 
 necessary lor our journey to any part we pleased to visit. I should have told you that he asked a great 
 many questions about Dr. Holland. He took me for a bishop ! — General Campbell, I suppose, had con- 
 trived some fun of this kind in his letter to him. So much for our visit to the great Ali Pasha." 
 
334 ROUTE THROUGH THE WOODS OF ARTA. 
 
 cupola, and the figures of saints and martyrs are not quite obliterated 
 from the walls. 
 
 In a little less than one hour from this spot we passed through 
 the village of Philippiada, whose miserable huts are constructed of 
 hurdles, and soon afterwards arrived at Eleftherochori, on the great 
 plain of Arta, where we intended to sleep. This village is but one de- 
 gree better than Philippiada, but we were too much fatigued to find 
 fault with our lodgiug. 
 
 Next morning we breakfasted, as at Lelevo, upon delicious milk, 
 and then resumed our march, accompanied by about twenty of the 
 villagers armed with muskets, to escort us through the deep woods of 
 Arta, which lay in this day's journey. At the distance of about a 
 mile from the village we entered these magnificent groves which extend 
 for many leagues along the gulf, covering mountains, valleys, and 
 plains with their umbrageous shade. They are the resort of numerous 
 brigands, who for a time escape the hand of justice amidst their deep 
 recesses. To guard us from a sudden attack our Albanian palikars 
 spread themselves all around, running about with incredible agility, 
 and affording a most picturesque spectacle as they threaded the bushes 
 and thickets, calling out to each other in their uncouth tongue, and 
 firing off at intervals their pistols and muskets. In a little more than 
 an hour we arrived at a spot where the river of Luro emerges 
 from these thick covers, near a large wooden bridge and dogana, 
 where the boats come up from Prevesa, and all articles of mer- 
 chandise pay a duty before they enter the canal, which the vizir has 
 cleared out, and which joins the new road from Arta to Ioannina*. 
 Here we heard such alarming reports concerning the robbers that Mus- 
 tafa thought it his duty to send for a large reinforcement of palikars from 
 the village of Mahmet Chaoush, which lay about a mile distant. In 
 the course of an hour they arrived with the codgia-bashee at their 
 
 * See vol. i. p. 435. 
 
CASTLE OF ROGOUS. 335 
 
 head. Being thus secured, we again penetrated into the thickest part 
 of the wood, and were greatly amused by the evolutions of the Alba- 
 nians, who having divided themselves into two sets, exhibited a species 
 of mimic warfare, one party retreating and the other advancing by 
 turns ; whilst their shouts and the report of their fire-arms echoed 
 finely all around. In less than half an hour we saw the ruins of 
 an immense fortress, called the Castle of Rogous, surmounting a no- 
 ble eminence, and said to be a general place of rendezvous for the 
 banditti of these regions. In spite of this we determined to explore 
 it, since we felt assured that the noise of our guard must have scared 
 away any robbers that might be skulking within ; or if not, we should 
 probably be more than a match for them : accordingly we turned up 
 a narrow path on the left hand, and having passed the ruins of some 
 ancient outworks, soon arrived in front of the castle itself. We entered 
 by a fine ruined gateway, and found it to consist of three courts, each 
 diminishing in size. The lower part of the walls exhibit a very excel- 
 lent specimen of the ancient Pseudo-Cyclopean masonry, and sup- 
 port a superstructure of comparatively modern date, but of much 
 better workmanship than we before observed in any reparation of 
 ancient fortifications. It is washed to the south and west by the river 
 of Luro, which is here both broad and deep, and makes almost a perfect 
 right angle in its course : on both these sides we found beautiful ter- 
 races, raised above the river, commanding a charming prospect of the 
 Ambracian Gulf, and covered with a turf as soft as velvet, where a thou- 
 sand wild flowers dyed the ground with various hues, whilst the castle 
 walls were literally hid by ivy and parasitical plants. On the other 
 side, the view extending over spacious woods comprehending hills and 
 valleys in their circuit, out of which appeared the blue peaks of 
 mountains rising aloft into the air, was, if possible, still more delight- 
 ful. The style of building indicates three different reras, that of the 
 ancient Grecian, the Roman, and the more modern Frank. Many 
 rooms in this fortress are still in a tolerable state of perfection ; in 
 J 
 
S36 SERPENTS. 
 
 the largest court stands a monastery and chapel, which was occu- 
 pied by some monks till these holy fathers were dispossessed by the 
 banditti : we observed many marks of the latter tenants on the smoke- 
 stained walls of the half-ruined apartments, but we met not with a 
 living creature except two or three large serpents that were basking 
 amidst the ruins. Our Albanians had killed several of these reptiles in 
 the woods: one of them was of a most extraordinary form, about four 
 feet in length, having a head as large as a child's fist and diminishing 
 gradually in thickness to the tail, which tapered in a point: the 
 scales upon the back were of a dark green, each single scaie extend- 
 ing quite across the body of the animal, and lapping one over the 
 other : I think I never saw a more disgusting monster. Many such 
 are now bred in these marshy regions of Epirus, from which the arts of 
 cultivation have been so long banished. 
 
 Regarding the identity of this fortress I think there can be little 
 doubt but that it was the ancient castle called Charadra or Cha- 
 radnes*, celebrated in this district as a place of security, and 
 on that account selected for the confinement of the iEtolian am- 
 bassadors, instead of Buchetium, by the Epirotic allies of the Ptoman 
 consul. This place was chosen by Philip King of Macedonia as a 
 rendezvous for his army, which he transported over the Ambracian 
 gulf into Acarnania, after his ill-advised siege and capture of Ambra- 
 cusf. Its distance is three hours from Arta, and nine or ten from 
 Prevesa. 
 
 Leaving the ruins we still proceeded for more than two hours under 
 the delightful shade of these thick woods, through spacious alleys 
 which had lately been cleared by orders of the vizir. We emerged 
 
 * Polyb. Hist. lib. xxii. c. 9. 
 
 Probably however this latter appellation may be a false reading in the copies of Polybius, or it may 
 mean the river from which the castle took its name, just as the Charadra, a fortress in Phocis, derived 
 its title from a river Charadius. Pausan. 1. x. c. xxxiii. 3. 
 
 + 'Avtoq H' «»aXa/3w>' rrjv cvvafxtv, irpoijye Trapa Xapacipai', airioiiiiv diafirjvai rbv 'AfifipaKucbv Ka- 
 \dfxi.vov koKvov' lis ?ivi>TaT6s £?t Kara rt> riiv 'Aicapvavuiv lepov, KaXifjievov " Aktiov. Polyb. 1. iv. 
 
ARRIVAL AT CAMARINA-CAPTAIN GIANNAKI. 337 
 
 from their coverts into a fine opening in which stands the roman- 
 tic village of Cangia, where we found a young Albanian captain, son 
 of Giannaki, the governor of Camarina, waiting our arrival with his 
 troop of palikars. He had received orders to this effect, and had been 
 at his post for the last four days. Here then we dismissed our vil- 
 lagers, after having distributed amongst them a sufficient remuneration 
 for their trouble and loss of time. We remained about two hours to 
 dine, and found the wine of this village remarkably good. 
 
 As we left Cangia we perceived the aqueduct of Nicopolis on the 
 side of a long mountain to the west of the village, and traced it for 
 more than a mile : the wood now became less thick, and the trees 
 broken into clumps. Having passed the ruins of a small Hellenic fortress 
 on the right and a fountain of exquisite beauty, full of large fish, on the 
 left of the road, we arrived in about one hour at Luro, a miserable 
 village, with huts built of mud and twigs : it has a considerable square 
 fortress built by the vizir in his Suliot wars, but falling rapidly into 
 decay. From hence we turned into a direction north north-west, and 
 in three hours more arrived at the beautiful village of Camarina, where 
 we were received into the house of the worthy Captain Giannaki. 
 This was without exception the most gentlemanly Albanian we ever 
 met with : there was a commanding dignity, mixed with great ur- 
 banity, in his countenance and manners, that is seldom seen amongst 
 any people : he is one of the oldest and most esteemed of the vizir's 
 friends, and is very celebrated for his valour and good conduct. 
 
 Camarina* is charmingly situated upon fine eminences, inter- 
 mingled with trees, gardens, and vineyards, and commands a noble 
 view of the Gulf of Arta, the Acarnanian mountains, the Ionian Sea 
 with its islands, and the isthmus of Nicopolis lying, as it were, below 
 it. Still higher up the fine hill upon which Camarina stands are the 
 
 * Its name is probably derived from Kafiapa, an arch, as it is situated nearer the great aqueduct of 
 Nicopolis; or it may be a corruption of Comarina, from the gulf of Comarus, ■which lies only a few 
 miles distant. 
 
 VOL. II. X X 
 
358 ANCIENT RUINS AT RHINIASSA. 
 
 spacious ruins of an ancient Greek city, called Rhiniassa, where for- 
 merly stood in all probability the city of Elatria, belonging to the 
 district of the Cassopaei. Being fatigued by our journey, we deferred 
 the inspection of them till the morning. The house of the gover- 
 nor was large, and so also was his family : his eldest son, who com- 
 manded our escort, had been married some years, and lived under 
 the same roof with his father : the family was of the Greek religion, 
 but the same reverence was paid to its chief as amongst Mahometans 
 of the highest rank: neither man, woman, nor child sat down, or eat, 
 or drank, in his presence. 
 
 Early next morning we started under the guidance of young Gian- 
 naki to view the ruins of Rhiniassa. These give the traveller no 
 trouble in the search, standing fully exposed to view in the curvature 
 of a grand ascent upon two levels or spacious platforms of rock, one 
 above the other, and surrounded by the ancient walls which remain 
 in a very extraordinary state of preservation. Their circuit may 
 be traced for the distance of five or six miles in their full extent, 
 enclosing a space within sufficient to contain probably 100,000 
 inhabitants: this is covered with the vestiges of public edifices and 
 private dwellings, the remains of which, for the most part, retain se- 
 veral layers of stones above the foundations; hence we are enabled to 
 gain a complete and most satisfactory idea of the plan of this city, 
 the length and breadth of its streets, the position and comparative 
 size of its public and private buildings, &c, which are almost as great a 
 curiosity as the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The citadel 
 appears to have stood on the western side and to have been admirably 
 fortified: its walls remain to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, 
 excellently constructed in a very ancient Pseudo-Cyclopean style. A 
 postern gateway remains quite entire, exhibiting a fine specimen of 
 the circular arch in a style of architecture decidedly Grecian. It 
 has often been made a matter of dispute whether the Greeks 
 ever used an arch in the construction of their buildings: the 
 
CITADEL— THEATRE. 339 
 
 specimen which has been recorded at Tiryns and this at Rhiniassa 
 shew that both the pointed and the circular arch was introduced, how- 
 ever sparingly, into their architecture: yet neither of them prove that 
 ingenious people to have been acquainted with the modern method of 
 constructing the arch upon mathematical principles ; they rather indeed, 
 afford an argument for the contrary supposition, since both in the in- 
 stance of the gallery of Tiryns and the gateway of Rhiniassa we find 
 the pitch of the one and the curvature of the other, formed by means of 
 the chissel upon the interior surfaces of large parallel blocks of stone. 
 With this method of construction it must be evident that no arches of 
 a large span could possibly be erected. After I had sketched this 
 curious gateway (see the vignette at the head of the chapter) we ex- 
 amined the interior of the citadel and entered into a very fine subter- 
 ranean apartment, to which we are conducted by a narrow passage 
 almost twenty yards in length : this room is nearly square, being nine 
 feet nine inches by nine feet six in dimensions: its ceiling is arched 
 like a fine alcove, and as well as the walls, covered over with a stucco 
 as smooth as polished marble, divided elegantly into compartments 
 with rich cornices and mouldings. As this city was probably in- 
 habited long after the Roman conquest of Epirus, it is difficult to say 
 whether the work in question was fabricated by its Greek or Roman 
 citizens. From hence we directed our steps to a very fine theatre 
 which stands near the upper part of the city to the north north-east, 
 just under the high and wooded precipices over which the wall 
 was carried on this side : the general breadth of the wall was ten feet. 
 In this theatre I counted thirty-seven rows of seats, with one broad 
 corridor or *n f .^a ; each seat was one foot three inches high and one 
 foot six inches broad ; the breadth of the upper gallery was only nine 
 feet: the plan however and dimensions of this edifice will be seen much 
 better by the delineation annexed. 
 
 x x 2 
 
340 
 
 THEATRE— PLAN OF THE CITY. 
 
 «J2 ■/, 
 
 On the rocky height to the north north-west of this theatre stands one 
 of the principal gateways in a high state of preservation: the prospect 
 from its coilon yields in beauty to few which Greece can boast, and is an 
 excellent spot from whence a draughtsman might take a complete ground 
 plan of the whole ancient city. At some distance to the north-east we 
 observed the precipices of Zalongo once stained with the blood of the 
 Suliot heroines. Below lies the small village whence it derives its 
 name, whose inhabitants have with immense toil cleared away part 
 of the ruined site of Rhiniassa for the purpose of gardens and vineyards: 
 this seems a curious waste of labour in a country where two thirds of 
 the land lies entirely uncultivated. 
 
 In descending from the theatre in a south-east direction through the 
 city we passed the remains of a large building whose walls of fine Cyclo- 
 pean masonry remain about a yard in height; its length is one hundred 
 and ten feet and its breadth one hundred ; but nothing is left which can 
 give rise to a conjecture respecting its use and appropriation ; we 
 measured the peribolus of another which was ninety feet by thirty; 
 near to it, on the opposite side of the street, is a large oblong edi- 
 fice which was fronted with columns whose bases are still standing. 
 
 The plan of this city appears to have been laid out with considerable 
 
ROUTE THROUGH NICOPOLIS TO PREVESA. 341 
 
 regularity, most of the streets running parallel to each other from east to 
 west and crossed by others at right angles from north to south; they 
 varied in breadth from ten to fifteen or eighteen feet; one of these 
 last dimensions being the broadest I could discover : it appeared to be 
 a main street, of great length, running from north to south. The 
 private houses seem to have been very small : some of the largest which 
 I measured were only forty-five feet by thirty-two and forty-four by 
 twenty-five. Animated by the strong interest which this scene inspired, 
 we ranged over the deserted streets, entered into the habitations, sur- 
 veyed the public edifices, and beheld with a species of veneration every 
 fragment upon this deserted spot which had been spared amidst the 
 wreck of time. It has hitherto been almost unexplored, Col. Leake being 
 the only modern traveller before ourselves who is known to have visited 
 its remains : when excavations shall hereafter be made, we may expect 
 not only to discover treasures interesting from their connexion with the 
 arts, but evidence which may enable us to assign its proper name to this 
 ancient site : by Meletius it is referred to Elatria, and no other city at 
 present puts in a better claim ; yet we are astonished to find such little 
 notice taken by ancient authors of a place so extensive and apparently 
 so magnificent as this : for, although we unaccountably missed it, Mr. 
 Jones subsequently discovered a second theatre towards the south-east 
 boundary, cut out of the solid rock like the other, and in a state of as 
 good preservation. 
 
 After spending between four and five hours in this delightful ramble, 
 we returned to Camarina for breakfast, and then resumed our jour- 
 ney in a southerly direction towards Prevesa, from which Camarina is 
 about twelve miles distant. At the bottom of the heights we soon 
 entered upon a large plain across which the aqueduct of Nicopolis, hav- 
 ing left the mountains, is seen stretching its arched colonnades. It 
 enters the isthmus by a pass through the hills, near the Gulf of Comarus. 
 When we arrived at that beautiful chain of low mountains which bounds 
 Nicopolis on the north, we remained some time to contemplate the 
 
342 VISIT TO ALI PASHA'S FRIGATE. 
 
 scene of ruin which lay beneath us, and then advancing over the site 
 of the " City of Victory," arrived early in the evening at Prevesa, and 
 took up our quarters with the worthy old Italian merchant who had 
 been our host on a former occasion. 
 
 Next morning we received visits from the codgia-bashee and the 
 vice-consul, and learned from the latter that an English merchant, a 
 Mr. Richards of Malta, lay with several ships at Port Vathi, ready to 
 take in cows and oxen purchased of the vizir for the supply of that 
 island. It happened that we brought letters of introduction from 
 England to this gentleman, and had been prevented from delivering 
 them by the plague which broke out in Malta at the very time 
 of our intended visit ; we therefore gladly seized this opportunity of 
 making his acquaintance in a place where we least expected it, and as 
 soon as we had finished our breakfast repaired to the spot, about half a 
 mile distant from the town, where we found him encamped on the 
 shore, with three vessels lying at anchor. He had been here about a 
 fortnight, and expected to remain a month longer before he should 
 take on board all his cattle. We dined with him under his tent and he 
 promised to return the visit next day at our lodging : few things are 
 more agreeable than the meeting of fellow-countrymen in a foreign 
 barbarous land. 
 
 Next morning Mr. Parker and myself took a boat and went on 
 board the vizir's frigate which had given us so much trouble at Ioan- 
 nina, and which lay at anchor in the harbour opposite Prevesa. 
 This, like all other Turkish men of war, was held under a divided com- 
 mand, there being two captains ! — one for the Greeks and another for 
 the Turks ! The Greek captain was a fine weather-beaten old tar from 
 the town of Galaxithi, but the Turkish chief was not on board : the 
 crew looked rather like a set of tailors on their shop-board, being for 
 the most part seated cross-legged on deck smoking their pipes and 
 playing at draughts or chess. The ship however seemed much cleaner 
 and in better order than Turkish ships in general are reported to be. She 
 
 2 
 
EXCURSION TO NICOPOLIS. 343 
 
 was large and roomy, being twenty-nine feet across her quarter-deck ; 
 and though built in a clumsy manner was reckoned by no means a bad 
 sailer. She was not intended originally for her present destination, 
 having been a Hydriot merchant vessel which put into the vizir's port 
 of Butrinto during a gale of wind in her voyage to Ancona : there 
 however the unfortunate captain was decoyed ashore, and disappeared, 
 whilst the vessel was detained as a lawful prize and converted to its 
 present use. After having taken coffee and smoked a pipe in the cap- 
 tain's cabin, we stepped into our boat and rowed to the Punta, where 
 we landed and proceeded as far as the new fortress which Ali has 
 erected on the Acarnanian side of the entrance into the Gulf. 
 Like almost all his forts, it appears strong only when the enemies are 
 taken into consideration with whom it is probable he may have to 
 contend : this is sufficient for his purpose, and he is loth to waste his 
 money upon superfluities : in the walls we observed several blocks of 
 marble, Avhich, with their inscriptions, had been sawed asunder: upon 
 one of them I perceived mention made of the ACTIAN APOLLO. 
 Here we re-embarked and returned to Prevesa to receive our guest and 
 talk of England. 
 
 Next day we made an excursion to Nicopolis, when I found that we 
 had been fortunate in the investigation of its ruins at our former visit; 
 for being situated on a marshy plain, instead of a rocky platform like 
 most ancient cities in Greece, many of its buildings are literally 
 choked up and hid from the view, during the summer months, by thick- 
 ets of nettles and thistles, which grow to the height of eight or ten 
 feet, and effectually bar all human approach. Being however ex- 
 tremely anxious to take some measurements of the Great Theatre, I 
 made an endeavour to penetrate up to that edifice; but whilst I was 
 cutting a path with my travelling sabre through the lofty thistles 
 that opposed my progress, a serpent of enormous size rushed by my 
 side, making quite a crash amongst the weeds in his way towards the 
 
344 VISIT TO SANTA MAURA. 
 
 ruins. I stood still for a considerable time listening to the noise 
 which this monster made in his retreat, and then retreated myself, 
 leaving the Great Theatre to the dramatis persona? which now figure 
 upon its stage. 
 
 Two days after this adventure I took a boat and paid a visit to 
 Colonel M'Combe at Santa Maura, and as the quarantine laws 
 were not now in force, I was permitted to land and proceed to 
 the castle, where I dined with the governor, and then returned in 
 the cool of a delightful evening. One object of my voyage to 
 that island was to procure some method of conveyance to the 
 shores of Italy, since we could find none at Prevesa; but even 
 there I was unable to succeed. We next endeavoured to per- 
 suade one of the captains of Mr. Richards's squadron to bend his 
 sails and carry us across the Adriatic, and that gentleman kindly 
 gave him permission, since it was very improbable that he would 
 be detained longer by such a voyage than he would have to stay 
 idle at Prevesa. The fellow however thinking that we were sorely 
 pressed, demanded such an exorbitant sum for his services, that 
 we instantly broke off the negotiation, and changed our plan of pro- 
 ceeding. 
 
 We now determined to take a boat from Prevesa as far as 
 Parga, which was at this time under British protection, and 
 try our chance there for a conveyance to the Italian coast : ac- 
 cordingly on the 28th of May we packed up our baggage, bid adieu 
 to our Preyesan acquaintance and settled accounts with Mustafa 
 and Demetrio. These two faithful domestics followed us to the 
 place of embarkation, and a scene there occurred, which, however 
 distressing at the time, is now pleasing to reflect upon, because it 
 does credit to human nature. They both appeared inconsolable; 
 they cried aloud and sobbed like children, and poor Mustafa rushed 
 into the water up to his knees, just as the boat was pushed off the 
 
DEPARTURE FROM PREVESA. 345 
 
 shore, to kiss our bands for the last time : we then observed them, as 
 we glided over the Ionian waves, retreating from the crowd of un- 
 concerned spectators, and taking their way towards our late lodging, 
 rendered melancholy by the absence of those whom they appeared to 
 esteem, whom they had faithfully served, and in whose fatigues and 
 dangers they had shared. 
 
 VOL. II. Y Y 
 
S4« DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. 
 
 highest of which rises to a peak in the very centre of the chain : the 
 whole of these are covered with the finest olives in the world, inter- 
 mingled with orange trees and cedrats, adorned with gardens or vine- 
 yards, and refreshed by rivulets and perennial fountains, where the 
 Parghiot virgins were once seen, like the heroines of the Odyssey, car- 
 rying linen for ablution, or bearing upon their heads pitchers of the 
 purest water for the use of the family ; but the finest features in the 
 Parghiot landscape are now, alas ! no more. 
 
 We were received by Sir C. Gordon with much cordiality and po- 
 liteness, and I can recal few days during our travels which I spent with 
 greater pleasure than those passed within the fortress of Parga. Most 
 of our time this morning was occupied in perusing a large collection of 
 English newspapers, from which we derived a pleasure which they only 
 know who like ourselves have for a long time picked up no news re- 
 specting their native land except from French Moniteurs and Italian 
 gazettes. At dinner we met one or two of the principal inhabitants, 
 and a Signore Vlandi, chief commissary of police, to whose intelligence 
 and civility we were much indebted. In the evening we took a walk 
 round the town, which is large and for the most part well built, the 
 houses being constructed of more solid materials than those which are 
 met with in Turkish cities: the streets on the rock are very narrow and 
 gloomy, but those on the lower town which lies around the port are 
 quite the contrary. The castle is but a weak fortification and very badly 
 mounted; but its few cannon were quite sufficient to keep in awe the 
 savage hordes of Albanian banditti. It was gratifying to observe the 
 respect paid by the inhabitants to their governor, a respect which seemed 
 dictated by the strongest feelings of gratitude, and to which, from all 
 we saw and heard of the conduct of that officer, we were convinced he 
 was most justly entitled. The character of the Parghiotes was represented 
 to us by every one connected with them in a very favourable light, 
 and I have the best reasons for believing them to have been a very in- 
 dustrious, honest and moral people, in spite of all that may be said by 
 
CHARACTER OP THE PEOPLE. 349 
 
 those who are interested in depreciating their good qualities : their at- 
 tachment to liberty is well known by the determined and successful oppo- 
 sition which they made for thirty years against the attacks of an inveterate 
 and powerful enemy ; and by the assistance which they always rendered 
 to the unfortunate Suliots or any other Christian people whose country 
 lay under the fangs of an infidel despoiler. Their valour has never been 
 called in question : but more, this valour has always shone forth in the 
 defence of their rights only, never in aggression ; for the Parghiotes 
 had not at the time of their expatriation increased their territory by a 
 single foot of ground since their ancestors first congregated together upon 
 this hill-altar of Liberty. As for the crime of piracy, with which they 
 have been charged, I believe that a person who should now assert it 
 would be laughed at for his ignorance, since there never was a more in- 
 dustrious and commercial people, nor was ever an instance known of a 
 Parghiot pirate on the coast of the Adriatic. This story owes its origin 
 to the pages of Mr. Hobhouse, who did not visit Parga, and who 
 merely quotes the burthen of a song to that effect made and sung by 
 the Albanian palikars of Ali Pasha. The people of Parga indeed, 
 were very likely to be called pirates and robbers by such kind of 
 gentry. With regard to the religion of the Parghiotes, though they ad- 
 hered strictly to the rites and ceremonies of the Greek church, they 
 appeared to do so very conscientiously, according to the faith in which 
 they had been brought up, and it would perhaps have been better to 
 havecleared their minds from error and superstition by rational argument 
 and kind forbearance than to have turned their religion into a reason 
 for delivering up their country to the Turks. 
 
 With regard to the antiquity of the Parghiot settlement it can be car- 
 ried no further back than the year 1400 of the Christian era; before that 
 time the people dwelt in a place called Palaio-Parga, on the frontiers of 
 their late territory, where its ruins may still be seen : they seem to have 
 transferred their residence to modern Parga, for the sake of greater secu- 
 rity against the incursions of Mahometan invaders ; though tradition 
 
350 CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN CABINET. 
 
 refers this determination to a miraculous interposition. It is said that a 
 shepherd wandering about in search of a stray sheep discovered an 
 image of the Panagia in a cave upon the rock : this he transported to 
 Palaio-Parga and placed in a church of that city; but the divine wood 
 unable to rest quiet in this new habitation, returned without any hu- 
 man aid to its former habitation : from thence the pious shepherd 
 again carried it off, and again it made good its retreat. As the determi- 
 nation of the timber seemed now fixed, it became the duty of the other 
 party to give way, and the whole tribe emigrated to their rock m the sea, 
 built a church over the cavern, and installed the image with great 
 solemnity : there it remained during their days of prosperity, and I 
 understand it has accompanied them in their melancholy exile. In 
 the next year after their settlement the Parghiotes were taken under 
 protection of the Venetian flag, which was at that time all powerful in 
 the Adriatic, and this protection was continued by the one party and de- 
 served by the other, until the lion of St. Mark fell beneath the victorious 
 eagles of Buonaparte. Still Parga remained attached to the government 
 of the Ionian islands, and would probably have remained so to this 
 day, but for the unworthy conduct of the Russian cabinet in the treaty 
 of March 1800, which basely gave up the continental dependencies of 
 the Ionian Isles to Turkish protection ! Never indeed has that cabinet 
 interfered in the affairs of Greece without involving its unfortunate in- 
 habitants in tenfold calamities. To see a christian power like Russia 
 allying itself with Turks, for the sake of gaining an advantage over a 
 powerful rival, is perhaps in the state of modern politics not to be 
 wondered at; but when we find it bribing such allies by the cession of 
 unfortunate Christian states, which are too weak to assert their own 
 lights against these formidable arbitrators, this appears to be very in- 
 compatible with that character which governments as well as individuals 
 ought to feel anxious to retain. 
 
 May 30th. — This morning we occupied ourselves as we had done 
 yesterday in reading the newspapers of our country, and exulting in 
 
DEPARTURE TO PAXO. 351 
 
 its triumphs : we dined with the governor at the military mess, where 
 we had the pleasure of meeting Captain Garland, of the Corsican 
 Rangers, who had the chief management of the Parghiot capitula- 
 tion. In the evening we took a long walk with that gentleman and 
 Signore Vlandi, through the environs of Parga, which had been the 
 scene of Ali Pasha's late defeat : the olive trees all around were marked 
 with musket balls, and many of them, but especially the orange trees 
 and cedrats, were cut down or otherwise injured by the malice of 
 the Albanians. In returning home we came round to the beautiful 
 fountain, called San Trifone, which is distant about a mile from the 
 city : hither the wives and daughters of the Parghiots, in their pic- 
 turesque attire, were accustomed to resort for water, which they car- 
 ried in elegantly shaped vases upon their heads : we saw the whole cause- 
 way leading to this spot covered with females going and returning in 
 this occupation, and amongst them discovered several of exquisite 
 beauty and graceful form. The scene was animated and delightful. 
 How is it now changed ! 
 
 Next day we hired a bark at the price of eighty dollars to carry us 
 to Barlctta, on the Apulian coast, where we intended to perform 
 quarantine. We endeavoured to get out of port, but were unable to 
 succeed, on account of an adverse wind : we therefore put back, 
 and next day, when the wind proved more favourable, accom- 
 panied Sir Charles Gordon in his gun-boat to the little Isle of Paxo, 
 ordering our own bark to follow. 
 
 This island lies at the distance of fifteen miles from Parga : it is one 
 arid rock, eighteen miles in circumference, without a plain or meadow 
 within its territory : it possesses not a single fountain or spring of 
 fresh water*, but procures this most necessary article of life from the 
 Albanian continent or Corfu : it scarcely grows corn sufficient for one 
 
 * There is one spring of brackish water behind the town, but not a copious one, and of this we 
 drank at dinner. 
 
352 DESCRIPTION OF THAT ISLAND. 
 
 hundredth part of its population ; yet with all these apparent disad- 
 vantages it has within itself the means of producing greater wealth to 
 its inhabitants than all the rest of the Ionian Islands : these means 
 depend solely upon its olive trees, which give such excellent oil, that 
 it bears a very high premium throughout the Levant, and affords a most 
 profitable exchange to its cultivators. Though there is scarcely any soil 
 upon the surface of Paxo, yet the olive trees are of immense size, shoot- 
 ing their roots into the crevices of the rock, and extracting nourishment 
 where almost every other plant would seek for it in vain. We were 
 surprised at the appearance of the houses, which are built in a style re- 
 markably neat and commodious: the inhabitants however, who 
 amount in number to about 4000, were at this time by no means in 
 affluent circumstances, but only just beginning to breathe from the 
 calamities of war : during the occupation of their island by the French 
 they had been not only distressed by the hard contributions of their 
 masters, but still more so by the British cruisers, which captured 
 their vessels and put a stop to their commerce and navigation. 
 
 The harbour of Paxo is admirable for small vessels, consisting of a 
 beautiful but narrow and circuitous channel formed by a small islet 
 which lies on the side towards Epirus: upon its central summit is 
 the citadel, where a few cannon are mounted for the protection of the 
 port against the attacks of corsairs : here also a little corn is grown as 
 well as a few vegetables. 
 
 We dined at the house of the commandant, where we met an Ita- 
 lian abbate, one of the few remnants of the Venetian government. In 
 the evening we attempted to take a walk in the environs of the town, 
 but were soon fatigued in scrambling over rocks, for there is not a road 
 in the whole island, so that a horse in Paxo is as scarce an article 
 as in Venice, and the people, unable to take exercise either by 
 riding or walking, or to employ a gondola, like the Venetians, are 
 perhaps the most constant worshippers of the Dii Penates in the 
 world. 
 
ANCIENT LEGEND. 353 
 
 In our ramble we observed some sheep and goats on the sea- 
 shore, sipping the salt-water: we were informed that the few cows 
 which are kept on this island do the same, and that the milk from all 
 these animals is particularly good. 
 
 There are no traces of any ancient monuments in Paxo, of which in- 
 deed very little mention is made either by Greek or Latin authors*. 
 The only legend connected with its history is related by Plutarch, in 
 his treatise " De defectu oraculorum," to which Milton has alluded in 
 his Hymn on the Nativity-}-, and which the reader will probably enjoy 
 more in the elegant versification of a modern poet, than in a prosaic 
 translation from the Greek. 
 
 " By Paxu's shores (thus ancient legends say) 
 As once a Grecian vessel held her way, 
 Steering her course for fair Hesperia's land, 
 Becalm'd she lay beside this desert strand. 
 Dark was the night, and stillness reign'd around; 
 When, from the shore, a more than mortal sound 
 The trembling steersman by his name address'd, 
 And spoke in accents wild its sad behest:— 
 
 *' ' Hence to the west thy destin'd course pursue, 
 And as Palodes rises to thy view, 
 Say to the Dryads of her woody shore 
 That Pan, the great, the pow'rful, is no more!' 
 
 " Awe-struck, the mariner his course pursu'd, 
 And when his vessel near'd the sacred wood, 
 In order due invok'd the Dryad train, 
 And, as enjoin'd, rehears' d the mystic strain : 
 When, from each haunted shade and cavern 'd dell, 
 Loud piercing shrieks and notes of sorrow swell; 
 
 * Polybius (1. ii. c. 10) makes mention of a naval engagement, fought between the Illyrians and 
 Achaeans off Paxoi, for the plural is always used by the ancients in speaking of this place, on account 
 of the little rock of Ante-Paxo, which lies to the south-east of it. 
 + " The lonely mountains o'er 
 And the resounding shore 
 A voice of weeping heard and loud lament." 
 
 VOL. II. Z Z 
 
354 SAIL THROUGH THE CHANNEL OF CORFU. 
 
 Wild strains of anguish load the rising gale, 
 That now, propitious, fills his bended sail: 
 With haste he spreads his canvass to the wind, 
 And joys to leave the fearful coast behind." 
 
 Horae Ionicae, p. 22. 
 
 June 2d. — This morning, the wind being fair, we bid adieu to our 
 hospitable entertainer and committed ourselves to the Adriatic waves* 
 in a Parghiot boat. She carried a 12-pounder at her prow, and her 
 crew consisted of a master, a pilot, and three other mariners, besides 
 ourselves and four poor Italians, who had deserted from the French 
 army at Corfu, and were unable, without some such assistance, to re- 
 gain their native shores. Thus, as it may well be supposed, we 
 were closely packed ! The breeze wafted us towards the promontory 
 of Lefkimo, anciently called Leucymna, and towards evening we 
 entered the beautiful channel of Corfu, between its cultivated shores 
 on the one hand and the wild mountains of the Epirotic coast on the 
 other. 
 
 " Protenus aerias Phaeacum abscondimus arces, 
 Littoraque Epiri legimus." 
 
 ;£n. iii. 1.291. 
 
 Here as the Port Pelodes and the lofty Buthrotum came into view, 
 we roamed in imagination with the Trojan exiles upon the banks of 
 their newly discovered Simois and Scamander, picturing to ourselves 
 the meeting of iEneas w r ith the unfortunate Andromache*, and her 
 
 * Solemnes tunc forte dapes, et tristia dona 
 Ante urbem in luco, falsi Simoentis ad undam, 
 Libabat cineri Andromache, manesque vocabat 
 Hectoreum ad tumulum : viridi quern cespite inanem, 
 Et geminas, causam lacrimis, sacraverat aras. 
 Ut me conspexit venientem, et Troia circum 
 Arma amens vidit ; magnis exterrita monstris 
 Diriguit visu in medio : calor.ossa reliquit. 
 Labitur ; et longo vix tandem tempore fatur-: 
 Verane te facies, verus mihi nuntius adfers, 
 
COAST OF EPIRUS. 355 
 
 exquisite valedictory address to the young Ascanius, so pathetically 
 described by the Mantuan bard : 
 
 Nee minus Andromache, digressu mcesta supremo 
 
 Fert picturatas auri subtemine vestes, 
 
 Et Phrygian) Ascanio clamydem ; nee cedit honori ; 
 
 Textilibusque onerat donis, ac talia fatur. 
 
 Accipe et hsec, manuum tibi qua? monumenta mearum 
 
 Sint, puer, et longum Andromachae testentur amorem, 
 
 Conjugis Hectoreae. Cape dona extrema tuorum, 
 
 O mihi sola mei super Astyanactis imago : 
 
 Sic oculos, sic ille manus, sic ora ferebat, 
 
 Et nunc aequali tecum pubesceret aevo. 
 
 As the wind fell, we only cleared the channel next morning, when 
 the expanse of the Adriatic opened to our view, with the great Acro- 
 ceraunian chain of mountains, so dreaded by sailors, stretching out its 
 huge barrier into the waves : against its steep and precipitous side the 
 whole force of the Adriatic beats furiously in a gale, and the unfor- 
 tunate bark that is there caught by the tempest is inevitably lost, 
 since there is not a port for the distance of fifty or sixty miles. Hence 
 the poet calls these rocks, 
 
 Infames scopulos Acrocerauniae. 
 
 They were at this time shining in bright ether without a single 
 cloud from whence a thunderbolt could fall upon their scathed sum- 
 mits. We were now becalmed or had only very light breezes from the 
 north-west, so that we spent the whole day within sight of the vil- 
 lages and fine cypress groves on the northern shore of Corfu, and in 
 the evening were just able to beat up, by reason of the wind veering 
 round a little, to the small island of Marlera, about three leagues 
 
 Nate Dea ? vivisne ? aut, si lux alma recessit, 
 Hector ubi est? dixit, lacrimasque effudit, et omnem 
 Implevit clamore locum. 
 
 JEn. iii. 
 
 z z 2 
 
556 CELEBRATION OF THE KING'S BIRTH-DAY. 
 
 distant. Next morning, as the wind still continued unfavourable, 
 we landed and pitched our tent upon the shore, and as it was the 
 birth-day of our late excellent and revered King, we determined upon 
 making a fete as far as circumstances would permit. I accordingly 
 set out with Antonietti to the village, and admired as I went along 
 the fine verdure in trees, vines, and shrubs, as well as the various 
 flowers which were spread over the diversified surface of this beautiful 
 little isle. The hills were cultivated to the very top, and the valleys 
 afforded the most charming rural scenes, being every where inter- 
 spersed with picturesque cottages, and exhibiting fine views of the 
 sea, of the neighbouring islands, or of the Albanian coast. Whether 
 this be Calypso's isle or not I will not pretend to determine, but it 
 offers a fair claim to it from its picturesque appearance. We found 
 the village small, but neatly built, and containing one handsome 
 church. The people were extremely civil, and supplied us willingly 
 with poultry, bread and excellent wine, with which we returned 
 well loaded to the tent. There Antonietti exerted all his powers 
 in the culinary art, the feast was spread out, the English standard 
 hoisted at the mast head, and at the end of the first toast after dinner, 
 which was " the King of Old England," one of the crew stationed in 
 the boat fired off the twelve-pounder : this, however, was the occasion 
 of great alarm to the poor peasants, who thought a Barbary corsair had 
 landed its crew upon their shores, and set oft" scampering over the 
 fields in all directions. 
 
 As we sat in our tent contemplating the verdant shores of Corcyra, 
 which lay extended before us, and on which the French flag still 
 waved, we could not help anticipating the happier destinies which 
 seemed to await this and its sister Isles, under the liberal and powerful 
 protection of our own country. These fair territories, blessed by the 
 choicest gifts of nature, and adorned with every beauty that can at- 
 tract the eye, have hitherto presented only a picture of internal 
 misery throughout the several periods of modern history. During 
 
REFLECTIONS ON THE STATE OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 35/ 
 
 the corrupt ages of the Eastern Empire they participated largely in 
 those evils which generally attend the old age of power, suffering all the 
 frightful calamities of barbaric invasions, and passing in rapid suc- 
 cession from the hands of one lord to those of another. Under the 
 dominion of Venice, they were considered solely in the light of pro- 
 fitable appendages to that proud inquisitorial government which 
 never treated any of her colonies either with prudence or with jus- 
 tice. Jealous of that talent and activity which distinguishes the 
 Greeks, she endeavoured not only to destroy their moral virtues, 
 but their national character and political union, altering their cus- 
 toms, abolishing their language, corrupting their literature, and by 
 the most refined arts of Machiavelism extinguishing their emulation. 
 Under the Venetian authorities, no public seminary was allowed to 
 exist upon these shores, and the Greek language being prohibited in 
 all public documents, the unfortunate natives were obliged to employ 
 an interpreter in their own country. ' 
 
 The occupation of these islands by the French republicans did not 
 tend to better their condition, when anarchy succeeded to servi- 
 tude, scepticism to ignorance, and the example of a licentious 
 soldiery to that of corrupt administrators of the laws. Under the 
 military despotism of the French empire, although some evils were 
 removed or alleviated, yet it was not to be expected that any great 
 improvement, moral or physical, could take place, that any rational 
 principles of civil liberty could be encouraged, or that the spirits of the 
 peoplecould recover their elasticity under the weight of military exactions 
 and an expenditure very disproportionate to the national resources. 
 
 But the clouds which had so long hovered round these ill-fated shores, 
 seemed now about to disperse, and the light of happiness to beam 
 through their gloom. The cession of Corfu to the British arms which 
 was daily expected, and the probable result of that cession in the re- 
 establishment of the Septinsular government, under the protection of a 
 
358 CROSS THE ADRIATIC. 
 
 power noted for its integrity and philanthropy, was cheering to 
 the soul that could sympathize in the calamities of an interesting 
 people. 
 
 The prospects which on that day opened to our minds have been 
 since happily fulfilled. The Septinsular government has acquired a 
 political consistency and credit which it never before possessed, the 
 foundations of its strength and prosperity are laid, its flag waves over 
 the ocean, commerce spreads her treasures over its shores, and the 
 establishment of a national University* promises to elicit once more the 
 genius of its people and direct their susceptible faculties to the culti- 
 vation, not only of sentiment and taste, but the principles of sound 
 philosophy. 
 
 This evening we slept on board, and as the wind changed to a more 
 favourable point, we found ourselves, when the sun arose, in a higher 
 latitude, nearly opposite Cape Languella, the extreme promontory of 
 Acroceraunia, whence there is the shortest run to the Italian coast. 
 
 " Unde iter Italiam, cursusque brevissimus undis." 
 
 In mid channel it was interesting to view on one side the shores of 
 Greece and on the other those of Italy, shores from whence the light of 
 knowledge first beamed upon the west, where, to use the words of an 
 elegant author, " History infuses a soul into nature and lights up her 
 features with memory and imagination." 
 
 As we approached the Italian shore we observed the towers of Otranto 
 rising, as it were, from the waves, upon that low coast which forms such 
 
 * In touching upon this subject, the author would consider it unpardonable to withhold the humble 
 tribute of his applause to the generous and philanthropic exertions of that distinguished nobleman 
 under whose auspices the Ionian University has been established, and who has been nominated 
 its Chancellor. If the dedication of fortune, lime, and talents to the alleviation of misery, and the 
 counteraction of evil, amongst a people whose misfortunes are altogether singular in the history of the 
 world, be a passport to universal approbation, the name of the Earl of Guilford will descend to posterity 
 in the list of Benefactors to mankind. 
 
COAST OF ITALY. 359 
 
 a contrast with the dreaded Acroceraunian heights which we had just 
 left. 
 
 Jamque rubescebat stellis Aurora fugatis 
 
 Cum serael obscuros colles humilemque videmus 
 
 Italiaro. 
 
 With a tine breeze right astern we scudded over the waves and soon 
 left Brindisi behind us. After this the country becomes extremely in- 
 teresting, and exhibits a most lively picture. A fine range of low hills 
 at the distance of about three leagues from the sea runs parallel with 
 the coast for some hundred miles, the intermediate space being filled up 
 with an extensive olive grove, thickly interspersed with white villas, 
 churches, convents, and cities. At one spot I counted five apparently 
 large towns within the range of view, some on the coast and others 
 upon eminences, whose numerous towers and whited battlements 
 formed a most agreeable contrast with the woody scenery : I never 
 recollect seeing any large extent of country which appeared to possess 
 so great a population as this part of Apulia. 
 
 During the night the wind fell, and the succeeding breeze from that 
 point of the compass called Maestro was so unfavourable, that about 
 mid-day we put back and ran into a small harbour near one of the 
 large square towers which defend the whole line of coast against 
 sudden attacks. I soon observed marks of great antiquity about 
 this port, for the most part artificially formed, and was preparing to 
 land, when I was suddenly hailed by a Neapolitan officer from a 
 window in the tower, who reminded me that I was subject to the 
 quarantine laws, which were at this time enforced with peculiar rigour. 
 In the conversation which ensued, he inquired of what country we 
 were, and informed us that he was himself an Englishman by birth, 
 though bred up in Naples, and engaged in the service of its sovereign. 
 This recognition of his countrymen inclined him to favour our wishes 
 of landing, and he permitted us to pitch our tent on shore upon our 
 
§50 RUINS OF EGNATIA. 
 
 suggestion that he should place guards over us to prevent communi- 
 cation, whom we readily agreed to remunerate handsomely for their 
 trouble. 
 
 No sooner had we set foot on land than we found ourselves sur- 
 rounded by the ruins of a large city, which, after some inquiries respect- 
 ing its distance from Brindisi, and the large city of Ostuni that ap- 
 peared upon the brow of the nearest ridge of hills, we had no doubt 
 was the ancient Egnatia, situated upon the great Appian way that led 
 from Rome to Brundusium, in the territory of the Salentini, and noted 
 for those juggling tricks of its priests which are ridiculed by Horace. 
 
 -Dein Gnatia lymphis 
 
 Iratis extructa dedit risusque jocosque ; 
 Dum flamma sine, tura liquescere limine sacro 
 Persuadere cupit. Credat Judaeus Apella 
 Non ego*. Lib. i. Sat. v. 96. 
 
 The town appears to have been nearly square, and the rock upon 
 which it stood to have furnished the material for its edifices : we ob- 
 served many large quarries, the sides of which had been afterwards exca- 
 vated for sepulchral caverns, and turned into mural cemeteries : we 
 entered into many of these chambers, and over some of the niches ob- 
 served the figure of a cross cut in the rock between two Roman capitals 
 in the following manner : 
 
 We found vast masses of foundations remaining over the whole site, as well 
 as one edifice with a vaulted roof, whose shell was nearly perfect, and 
 
 * Pliny describes the miracle in rather different terms: " In Salentino oppido Egnatia, imposito 
 ligno in Saxum quoddam ibi sacrum, protinus flammam existere. Lib. ii. c. 107." Probably all this 
 wonder arose from some spiracle of mephitic gas which was easily inflamed. 
 
DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE PEASANTRY. 361 
 
 very similar in form to what is called the temple of Minerva Medica at 
 Rome. Farther to the south appears another small port, like the former, 
 cut chiefly by art in the rock; into this a rivulet which ran through the 
 city, pours jts scanty tribute during the hot months of the year and a 
 violent torrent in the rainy season. The banks of this stream are cover- 
 ed with the cistus and other shrubs, and the whole surface of the 
 ground so swarms with beautiful animals of the lizard species that 
 the passenger is at first almost afraid to put down his foot lest he should 
 crush them: but the quickness of eye and rapidity of motion in this 
 elegant little creature is quite surprising. Great numbers of the 
 peasantry were scattered over the fields busily employed in the corn 
 harvest : I accosted several of them but was unable to comprehend 
 their uncouth dialect. Their manners appeared strangely uncivilized, 
 and it is said they are not very courteous towards the unprotected 
 traveller. But of all their peculiarities nothing struck us so forcibly 
 as their apparel, the men wearing upon their heads a high peaked 
 hat of white beaver, exactly similar to that with which the zany or 
 fool in a company of mountebanks is decorated, and the women 
 coiling Up their lung black hair in plaits, which they transfix with 
 thin silver bars tipped at each end with knobs and small chains*, whilst 
 rincs of such enormous size hang suspended from their ears that an 
 active harlequin would scarcely be able to abstain from trying his skill 
 in taking a leap through their circumference. 
 
 We dined and slept under our tent, but were awakened in the 
 middle of the night by a deputation of magistrates from Ostuni, 
 who made regular visits to the watch-towers upon the coast to see 
 that the quarantine laws were not broken: it was lucky for us 
 
 * This seems to be a very ancient fashion, vid. Mart. Epig. 24. lib. xir. 
 
 Taenia ne madidos violet bombycina crines 
 Figat acus tortas sustineatque comas. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 A 
 
362 BARBARV CORSAIR— BARLETTA. 
 
 that they found our sentinels on their post. About noon next day 
 the wind became favourable and we again set sail. Early on the fol- 
 lowing morning we passed the towers of Bari, " Bari mcenia piscosi," 
 as noted in modern as it was in ancient times for the excellence and 
 abundance of its fish : it was interesting to observe a corroboration of 
 Horace's account, in several little fleets of fishing boats, which we saw 
 spreading their sails and steering for their respective stations. Be- 
 tween this place and Barletta we had a narrow escape from being 
 captured by an Algerine xebec, which we descried in the distant 
 horizon : as it often happens in these seas, she was becalmed, whilst 
 we enjoyed a breeze that carried us at the rate of six or seven 
 knots an hour. During our residence in the lazaretto we heard that 
 she engaged and took a large Austrian merchantman from Trieste 
 on this very day, and afterwards threw the whole coast of Apulia 
 into consternation and misery by capturing a great quantity of fishing 
 boats and carrying off the crews into captivity. 
 
 On the 9th of June we entered into the lazaretto of Barletta to per- 
 form a vexatious quarantine of forty days; as if one-third of that time 
 were not more than sufficient to discover any lurking symptoms of the 
 plague ! At any other time than this we might have cut off two- 
 thirds of our imprisonment by bribing the officers : but they happened 
 just now to be under prosecution for an offence of this kind, in which 
 they had been detected, and we were therefore doomed to undergo the 
 full term allotted us. To shew however the insufficiency of quarantine 
 laws in general, to prevent infection, I need only mention that many 
 persons connected with the lazaretto freely associated with us, and 
 some of them frequently dined at our table. It will be readily be- 
 lieved that time hung heavy enough upon our hands in this detestable 
 prison as soon as the view of Mount Garganus, stretching his huge 
 promontory into the Adriatic surge, lost its interest with its novelty; 
 whilst the sound of distant merriment, proceeding from festivals during 
 the delicious evenings of an Italian summer, served but to tantalize 
 
RELEASE FROM QUARANTINE. 3(53 
 
 and remind us of our loss of liberty. We had no reason however to 
 complain of any want of civility in the officers of the lazaretto or the 
 inhabitants of the town, several of whom sent us occasional presents 
 of fruit, wine, curds, and various other delicacies. At length, after 
 we had seen all the Neapolitan troops from Corfu perform their quaran- 
 tine and depart, read through the entire works of Horace in his 
 native province, viewed a tremendous thunder storm amidst the 
 Daunian mountains, and a grand festival celebrated in honour of the 
 Neptunian Nicolo in the harbour, we were released on the thirty- 
 fourth day of our confinement, by an order from Naples under sign 
 manual of the Duca di Gallo, to whom we addressed a memorial as 
 soon as we knew that the quarantine of the soldiers, who came from 
 the same quarter of the world as ourselves, was intended to be 
 shortened. 
 
 3 a 2 
 
called I'izzo ili Sungue. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Release from Quarantine — Description of Barletta — Excursion to the 
 Site of Cannce — Cannosa — Church of St. Sabinus — Sepulchre of Bohe- 
 mond— Ancient Tomb, Armour, and Vases discovered in an Excavation — 
 Curious Mistake made by the Author and his Friend — Departure for 
 
 Naples — Ba?iditti Fonte di Bovino Settlements of Albanians 
 
 Naples — Borne — Florence — Fassage over the Alps — Lyons — Faris — 
 Arrival in England — Conclusion. 
 
 ON the morning of our exit from the lazaretto we were entertained 
 at a very elegant dejeune by an Italian gentleman who had shewn us 
 many civilities during our confinement. We afterwards made an ex- 
 cursion round the fortifications and visited every thing worthy of obser- 
 vation within the city, which is extremely well built, though it has a 
 decayed and desolate appearance. The monarchs of the House of 
 Arragon once made this their place of residence to secure the alle- 
 giance of the province of Apulia, and Ferdinand I. caused himself to 
 be crowned in its cathedral. Its name is said to be derived from bari- 
 letta, a little barrel, painted upon the sign-board of a solitary tavern 
 or wine-house upon the high road, whither inhabitants resorted and laid 
 
DESCRIPTION OF BARLETTA. 365 
 
 the foundations of a city after the ruin of Cannae and Cannosa, two 
 large towns in the vicinity. The principal curiosity of Barletta is a 
 bronze statue of colossal size, being more than seventeen feet in height, 
 erected in the piazza or market-place, and supposed to represent the 
 Emperor Heraclius. It is in a standing posture, attired in the palu- 
 damentum or military cloak, and crowned with a diadem ; the right 
 hand is raised above the head and holds a crucifix, whilst the folds of 
 the cloak, drawn across the breast, are thrown over the left arm : the 
 execution is above mediocrity. The ship which is said to been con- 
 veying this image as a dedicatory offering to Saint Michael on his own 
 Mount Garganus, was cast away opposite Barletta, and the statue lay 
 for the space of nearly nine centuries buried in the sands, whence it 
 was at last dug up in the year 1491 and fixed on its present site. 
 Having roamed about the town with all the delight of newly acquired 
 liberty, we adjourned in the evening to a conversazione at the house of 
 Signore Cassiero our banker, a very worthy man, who lamented to us 
 in bitter terms the absence of their lawful sovereign from his Neapo- 
 litan realms. No parties except those who held offices under govern- 
 ment seemed to relish the dominion of King Joachim. 
 
 Next day we hired a carriage and made an excursion into the 
 country, accompanied by Signore Giovanni Millar captain of the port, 
 the "overnor of the lazaretto, and another Italian gentleman. Pro- 
 ceeding through the vineyards for a few miles north we arrived at the 
 mouth of the Anfidus, now called Ofanto, celebrated by the pen of 
 Horace, and the only river which flows through the Apennines, since it 
 takes its rise on the side next the Etruscan Sea, but falls into the 
 Adriatic*. Deflecting thence to the left we soon arrived at the site of 
 Cannse, " busto insignes nominis Romani," of which little now is left 
 except its name. This city assumed some consequence in the early 
 ages of Christianity, when it was made an episcopal see. It had fre- 
 
 * Polyb. 1. iii. c 110. 
 
386 
 
 EXCURSION TO THE SITE OF CANNAE. 
 
 quent litigations with Barletta on account of their intervening territo- 
 ries ; but these were decided by a partition of lands in 1284 by 
 Charles I. Its ruin and abandonment took place about the time of the 
 crusades, when the advantages of a maritime situation drew the inha- 
 bitants of the inland towns to the sea shore. 
 
 The first traces we discovered of Cannae were a few subterranean 
 reservoirs half full of water, by the road side, after which we soon 
 arrived at the vaulted edifice represented in the plate, which is here 
 given. It is built like all the ancient edifices and city walls which we saw 
 on this coast, with oblong blocks of stone, scarcely equalling in size 
 one-third of those generally employed on similar buildings in Grecia 
 Propria : at the further end is a marble trough, which receives a copious 
 discharge of transparent water. 
 
 This building is situated just below the eminence, or rising ground, 
 upon which Cannae was placed ; thither we ascended and found all 
 vestiges of that city obliterated by the ploughshare, except part of 
 one solitary entrance into some public or private edifice. From hence 
 there is a very extensive view over the fatal plain, or pezzo di sangue, 
 
CANNOSA. 367 
 
 as it is now called, whose general appearance I have endeavoured to 
 delineate in the vignette prefixed to this chapter*. 
 
 From Cannae we proceeded about three miles in a direction nearly 
 E. N. E. to the modern town of Cannosa, built upon the site as well 
 as from the ruins of Canusium, that ancient city of Diomede-f, which 
 received the Roman fugitives in their disastrous flight. At this place 
 one of the party had a brother-in-law, to whom he had sent notice of 
 our arrival, and with whom he intended we should dine. Owing how- 
 ever to some family circumstances this visit was inconvenient : a differ- 
 ent arrangement therefore was made, that gave occasion to a scene 
 which, although it originated in a perfect mistake, I blush to think 
 upon even at the present day. This shall be related in its proper 
 place. In the mean time we walked about to survey the town, and were 
 much struck by the great quantity of sepulchral monuments and other 
 fragments of the ancient city, worked up and preserved in the walls of 
 the modern habitations : this circumstance gives to the place a very 
 antique and interesting appearance. The chief sera which saw Canu- 
 sium flourish in opulence and magnificence, was that of Trajan and 
 his immediate successors. This prosperity however only marked it 
 out as a prey to the successive ravages of Goths, Vandals, Saracens, 
 and Normans : its chief calamity was occasioned by a terrible con- 
 flagration when it was besieged by Duke Robert, who took the place 
 by assault. In the year 1090 it fell into the possession of Bohemond 
 son of Robert, the Ulysses, as he has been called, of the crusades, 
 whom even Gibbon allows to have been a hero without fear or re- 
 proach : after he had been ejected from his inheritance by the in- 
 trigues of a mother-in-law and an uncle, he fought against the infidels 
 
 * It bore the same naked aspect at the time of the battle, for the Roman consul iEmilius prudently 
 abstained from engaging the Carthaginians on account of the superiority which their cavalry would 
 have upon such ground. SvvStaaafnevos iirnreSae nai \pi\ac ovrag rag nipd, roTraj. Polyb. 1. iii. 
 c. 110. 
 
 + Qui locus a forti Diomede est conditus olim. Hor. Sat. v. 1. 1. 
 
368 CHURCH OF ST. SABINUS— SEPULCHRE OF BOHEMOND. 
 
 and founded a principality at Antioch in Syria, where he protected 
 the adventurous crusaders and re-established the worship of the true 
 God. 
 
 E fondar Boemondo al nuovo regno 
 Suo d'Antiochia alti principj mira : 
 E legge imporre, ed introdur costume 
 Ed arti, e'l culto di verace Nume. 
 
 This prince died and was buried at Cannosa in 1111. 
 
 During our perambulations we were joined by a very lively in- 
 telligent priest who with much good nature offered to be our cicerone. 
 Under his guidance we proceeded to the ancient metropolitan church 
 of St. Sabinus, said to have been founded in the 6th century, and 
 which has been preserved safe through the calamities of so many 
 ages. It is rich in marble and its roof is supported by six stupendous 
 columns of verde antique. In a small area adjoining a church, 
 stands a beautiful mausoleum which once covered the ashes of 
 the accomplished Bohemond. It is built of marble in the form 
 of an octagonal cupola, inscribed with gothic rhymes which I 
 found too difficult to decypher, and adorned over the entrance 
 with sculpture in relief, representing an assemblage of Christian 
 knights in the attitude of kneeling before the Virgin. The virtues 
 of this brave hero could not protect his remains against the envy and 
 malice of a prince of Tarentum, who is said to have broken open the 
 tomb in the year 1461, and left it in that dilapidated state in which it 
 now appears. 
 
 From hence we descended into some vineyards below the town 
 to see one of the greatest curiosities in this part of Italy, which 
 had been discovered about a year before our arrival, whilst some 
 workmen were excavating a wine vault in the tufa-rock. In form- 
 ing the large chamber which gives light to some long subterra- 
 nean galleries, they accidentally burst into a superb sepulchre, 
 formed like an ancient Doric temple, with a fine angular roof, semi- 
 
ANCIENT TOMB, &c. DISCOVERED IN AN EXCAVATION. 369 
 
 pilasters cut at the sides, and a regular entablature. The entrance, 
 which had been artificially closed, was on the opposite side to that 
 broken open. At one side of this mausoleum, upon the ground, 
 lay the armour of some ancient hero, on several parts of which the 
 gilding is said to have been plainly distinguishable; but the corpse 
 was totally decayed. 
 
 At one end of the tomb stood three of the finest terra-cotta vases ever 
 yet brought to light from their funereal receptacles: the largest is be- 
 tween four and five feet in height, upon which the labours of Hercules 
 are beautifully pourtrayed : the next is three, and exhibits the adven- 
 tures of the Argonautic exhibition: the last is two; but all were found 
 filled with vases of smaller dimensions: at the other end of the tomb 
 were two pedestals, cut from the rock, on one of which stood a wild 
 boar, executed in a rough but spirited style, and on the other a dog very 
 similar in appearance to the English mastiff. No one had formed a 
 conjecture respecting the occupier of this superb sepulchre, which car- 
 ried back the imagination to such remote ages of antiquity. Its mag- 
 nificence might lead us to ascribe it even to the Homeric Diomede 
 himself, the founder of the city; and this opinion might perhaps re- 
 ceive some confirmation from the appearance of its ornaments. Dio- 
 mede was the son of Tydeus who Avas a conspicuous character at the 
 famous chase of the Calydonian boar ; and on the coins discovered at 
 Arpi, the ancient Argyripa, founded also by Diomede, the figure of the 
 boar is represented : we learn moreover from Julius Pollux that the 
 people of Calydon themselves gave sepulchral honours to Aura the 
 bitch of Atalanta which was killed by the monster*. It is worthy also 
 of remark that the ornamental figures upon the vases relate to actions 
 which took place prior to the age of Diomede. 
 
 The priest who acted as our guide had purchased these beautiful 
 vases from the proprietor of the vault. But the fame of the discovery 
 
 *"Ev£o£oc <?£ trdt 7| AraXavTrjs kvuv, Aapa rSvofxa, f\v 6 KaXv^iinoj ovq VTrtKTttvtv, a<f >}c T0 kuvoc 
 nrj/xa Kakv8wt>ioi£. Lib. V. c. 6. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 B 
 
370 CURIOUS MISTAKE MADE BY THE AUTHOR AND HIS FRIEND. 
 
 was soon spread abroad, and having reached the ears of the court, an 
 order was sent to bring them to the queen's repository at Naples, whilst 
 the purchaser and seller were both condemned in large fines for conceal- 
 ing the property. A room in the royal palace was fitted up expressly 
 for the reception of these precious relics, a sepulchre was constructed 
 exactly similar to that in which they were discovered, the armour and 
 vases were placed in their relative positions, and the figures of the dog 
 and boar painted in high relief upon the walls. 
 
 From this tomb we returned into the city and were conducted to the 
 most respectable looking mansion in the piazza. As we were ascend- 
 ing the grand flight of marble steps which led to the first floor, Signore 
 Millar unfortunately made an observation respecting the excellence of 
 the hotel, which we took literally, and naturally enough concluded that 
 as it was inconvenient for the private family of our companion to re- 
 ceive us, that he would take us to a place of public entertainment. Un- 
 der this impression my friend and myself agreed that it would be right 
 in us to defray the expences of the feast, to which we invited our clerical 
 conductor as well as an improvisatore who had also been accidentally 
 introduced to us. Being met at the top of the staircase by the master 
 of the house we passed him with a very slight notice of his ceremonious 
 bows and proceeded straitway into the saloon : there we unceremo- 
 niously threw off our coats on account of the heat, and having or- 
 dered the children out of the apartment, who made too much noise for 
 a hot day, we lay reclined at full length upon the chairs till we reco- 
 vered from our fatigue. Mr. Parker then ordered the host to bring him 
 water, soap and towels, when the poor man readily obeyed and with 
 great good nature held the basin whilst the other washed his hands and 
 face. He next had the mortification of hearing hopes expressed of a 
 special good dinner, and a particular request that he would produce the 
 best wines in his cellar, with various other observations which guests are 
 in the habit of making when they wish to oblige a landlord, and act, as 
 it is called, for the good of the house. It is surprising that our Italian 
 friends did not stop us in this career, and I can only account for their 
 
CURIOUS MISTAKE MADE BY THE AUTHOR AND HIS FRIEND. 371 
 
 silence by supposing that they thought such manners were to- 
 lerated in England. Yet when they saw us invite the master 
 of the house to sit down at his own table, where we took the chief 
 seats and did the honours of the feast, and most especially when 
 we ordered the improvisatore to commence operations and called 
 up some itinerant musicians into the room, I wonder how even 
 Italian urbanity and patience could have endured it. At length as 
 the time approached for our return to Barletta, I arose and quietly 
 beckoning the host out of the room, requested him privately to 
 make out his bill, which I was desirous to discharge. Never 
 shall I forget his expression of countenance at this proposal. With 
 his hair all standing on end, and with an inconceivable shrug of the 
 shoulders, he vehemently pronounced the word " bill" several times, till 
 it seemed to stick in his throat and stop his utterance. A pause ensued, 
 and I endeavoured to explain myself, when the poor man assured me 
 that he had never made a bill in all his life, and that he was too happy 
 at entertaining Englishmen in his house, if they would excuse his poor 
 accommodations. The idea of some mistake now flashed across my 
 mind ; I requested to know whom I had the honour of addressing, and, 
 to my perfect horror, was answered, the Prefect of the city. Confu- 
 sion now tied up my tongue, for the excuse I had to offer seemed 
 almost as bad as the conduct of which he had so much reason to com- 
 plain: I therefore sent for Giovanni Millar, and having made him ex- 
 plain the origin of the mistake, I expressed in the strongest terms 
 my knowledge of the language would permit our sorrow for con- 
 duct which must have had the appearance of extreme brutality, but 
 which, if referred to the unfortunate cause, would I hope not appear 
 inconsistent. The worthy prefect accepted this apology as politely as 
 he had borne with our apparent rudeness, but still I never felt greater 
 relief than when we stepped into the carriage and turned our backs 
 upon the walls of Cannosa. 
 
 On the evening after this adventure we set out for Naples in a 
 
 3 b 2 
 
373 BANDITTI, 
 
 strange kind of vehicle, which answers to our mail in carrying letters to 
 and from the capital, but in form and convenience resembles much 
 more a poulterer's cart. It is formed of wood, like a large square 
 box, painted, slung upon thick leathern straps which pass over two 
 rough axle-trees a foot each in diameter: it carries four inside and 
 two outside passengers, the postilion sitting upon one of the wheel- 
 horses and directing the leaders with a long whip. Such is the mail- 
 coach system in Italy. 
 
 An occurrence had taken place connected with its very last journey 
 which threw all the country into alarm, and made every one advise us 
 to postpone our expedition, or even to proceed by sea to Naples. At 
 a celebrated pass in the Apennines, called the Ponte di Bovino, a large 
 corps of brigands, to the number of at least two hundred, concealed 
 behind the rocks, fired a volley upon the carriage, killed the horses 
 and postilion, burned all the letters, took out an unfortunate officer, 
 whom they shot on the spot, and carried away a still more unfortunate 
 female passenger to their haunts in the mountains. Mementos of this 
 outrage presented themselves to our eyes in the numerous musket- 
 bails which were at this time sticking in the body of the machine ; 
 but we judged it most expedient to proceed on our expedition imme- 
 diately after the commission of such an act, since it was not very 
 likely that it would be soon repeated. We were not a little amused 
 during the journey by the terrors of our Italian companions on this 
 subject, and when we arrived at the fatal pass, their reason seemed 
 to be quite overcome by their fears, which were not a little increased 
 by a terrific thunder-storm whose echoes were reverberated in the 
 grandest manner possible among the rocks and valleys. We staid at 
 the post-house two hours before the storm abated, during the whole of 
 which time we had to contend with the almost frantic demands of our 
 fellow-travellers to the condottore, that he would put eight horses to 
 the vehicle and proceed at full gallop through the defile, which is twelve 
 miles in length, affording scarcely room for two carriages to pass. 
 
SETTLEMENTS OF ALBANIANS. 373 
 
 It was in vain we urged the impossibility of avoiding musket-balls by 
 an increased velocity of motion, or the probability of attracting the 
 notice of banditti by the appearance of such extraordinary haste and 
 precaution : they still persisted in their vehement exclamations and 
 exhortations to the guard, who was about to yield, when we then 
 declared in our turn that we would not proceed in the manner pro- 
 posed, and threatened him with an information at the police-office on 
 our arrival at Naples. 
 
 This declaration of ours co-operating with the expectation of a 
 better fee from Englishmen than he was likely to obtain from his own 
 countrymen, determined the condottore to make no alteration in the 
 mode of conveyance, and when the storm was abated we proceeded 
 through this terrific pass. In about half an hour we arrived at the spot 
 where the late attack had been made, and observed one of the horses 
 lying by the road-side, with its flesh already half stripped from the 
 carcass by birds of prey. As for the banditti, we saw none of them 
 except a few wretches bound with cords, in custody of the peasants, 
 who, after this last outrage, had collected together in large bodies, 
 headed by their priests, dispersed the villains from their haunts, taken 
 several prisoners, and rescued the captive lady, much to the credit 
 of Italian gallantry. 
 
 About mid-way in the pass we changed horses at a large solitary 
 post-house, where we observed several persons, both men and women, 
 dressed in very strange attire, and speaking a most extraordinary unin- 
 telligible dialect. Antonietti, who has a great facility in acquiring the 
 knowledge and sound of languages, soon discovered the Albanese to 
 be the root of this jargon, and upon inquiry we found that several 
 towns and villages, some of which we saw upon the opposite heights, 
 were chiefly peopled with Albanian colonists who had preserved their 
 customs and language in these wild mountains of Apulia. 
 
 The origin of their settlement is thus accounted for. A very strict 
 alliance and intimate friendship had always subsisted between the 
 
374 SETTLEMENTS OB' ALBANIANS. 
 
 great Scanderbeg and Alfonso King of Naples, the latter of whom 
 constantly assisted the Prince of Epirus with supplies of men and am- 
 munition in his contests against the Turks*. On the death of Alfonso 
 his son Ferdinand being driven by foreign and domestic enemies from 
 his capital, fled to Barletta, where he was in imminent danger from 
 the French armies which surrounded him. He was delivered from 
 these perils and recovered his throne against his competitor John of 
 Anjou, chiefly through the valour of Scanderbeg, who brought over 
 the flower of the Epirotic forces to his assistance: in gratitude for 
 which services, the Neapolitan monarch gave to Scanderbeg, as the 
 old history of that prince expresses it, " inestimable treasures, horses 
 barbed, proude and rich caparizons and such like presents fit for 
 knights and men of arms, of singular prise and estimation : also the 
 city of Trana and two other noble and strong places in Apulia; one of 
 the which was the Mount Gargan, commonly called Saint Angell, 
 where is seated the famous towne of Sypont, and the venerable church 
 consecrated to the honour of Saint Michaell upon the sea Adriaticke : 
 the other was Saint John de Ronde, all which places with their territo- 
 ries he granted unto Scanderbeg and his heires for ever . and he ratified 
 and confirmed his sayed gift and graunt by good and authenticall 
 writings and charters -f-." 
 
 After the death of Scanderbeg and the conquest of Epirus by the 
 Turks, John Castriot, his son and successor, fled to Naples, where he 
 was most kindly received, whilst to his followers were assigned portions 
 of land in Calabria, with a freedom from taxes and other immunities. 
 To the time of Charles V. Albanian Greeks came and established 
 themselves in these provinces, where they still remain unmixed with 
 the natives, retaining the peculiar customs of their country, and in 
 some instances the rites of the Greek religion, though for the most 
 part they have been, by persuasion or compulsion, brought over to the 
 
 * See page 260 of this volume. 
 
 + Hist, of Scanderbeg by Lavardin, translated into English. London, 1596. 
 
NAPLES. 375 
 
 church of Rome. They are considered a quiet industrious set of 
 people, addicted solely to agricultural or pastoral pursuits, and paying 
 the most decided reverence to their priests. 
 
 Having passed safely through this terrific defile, we had only one 
 more cause of alarm during the journey, which arose from the carriage 
 being neatly pitched down a precipice. I am surprised that the ex- 
 traordinary mode of driving adopted in this country does not lead to 
 such accidents more frequently. After having undergone exquisite tor- 
 tures in this detestable machine for two nights and the intervening day, 
 we were deposited on the second morning at Naples, scarcely able 
 to walk from the soreness of our limbs, having been actually obliged 
 to tie tight bandages round our bodies to prevent a dislocation of 
 joints. 
 
 At Naples we remained ten days, which were delightfully spent in 
 excursions ;about its interesting coasts, in the ascent of its volcanic 
 mountain, iand in visits to Herculaneum and Pompeii, those ancient 
 cities so curiously preserved to modern times by the very means which 
 appeared to be their destruction. I shall not however attempt to swell 
 my pages' With a description of these scenes, since I am not conscious 
 of possessing any information that might elucidate, or powers of 
 language that might adorn them, more than has been already done by 
 preceding travellers. At this time Murat and the sister of Buonaparte 
 were seated on the throne of Naples. As we did not think proper to 
 be presented, we satisfied our curiosity by viewing these exalted per- 
 sonages, surrounded by their court, at high mass in the royal chapel. 
 The music was delightful ; but it would be the height of inconsistency to 
 connect this ceremony with any sentiments of devotion : it appeared 
 more like a fashionable morning concert, where no attention was paid 
 to what was going forward, not even to the music: there were no 
 prayers, no participation even in outward ceremony; talking and 
 laughing seemed the order of the day, whilst all religious observances 
 fell to the vicarious service of the priests. King Joachim appeared to 
 
 2 
 
376 NAPLES. 
 
 me, as he has been represented by others, a coarse vulgar man, pos- 
 sessed of courage and good nature ; but his consort looked as if she 
 had been born a queen : two sons who stood at their side resembled 
 the father more than the mother in personal appearance. We entered 
 very little into the society or public amusements of Naples, the short 
 time of our residence being fully occupied on subjects of much greater 
 interest. At length, having met with a very agreeable companion in 
 one of our own countrymen who was anxious to visit Florence, we left 
 the shores of Parthenope on a delightful evening in the latter end of 
 July. We put our servant into Mr. Synge's carriage and took that 
 gentleman into our own, which was built upon a most commodious 
 plan, and happened to be the identical vehicle which brought King 
 Joseph Buonaparte from Paris to Naples : we took it back to the very 
 confines of France; but if we had then known the value attached to 
 carriages of that royal house, we should probably have transported it 
 across the channel. We were more than two nights and a day in posting 
 to Rome, owing to accidents of various kinds : to one of these however 
 we were indebted in a singular manner for our preservation. At a post- 
 house between Capua and Moia, just as the postilions were bringing out 
 our horses, an Austrian courier, decked in as much gold lace as a Nea- 
 politan duke, came up, and in an authoritative tone ordered the animals 
 to be put to his own carriage : all remonstrance was in vain ; an officer 
 attached to government takes precedence of any other individual in 
 such cases, and we saw the gentleman depart whilst we were obliged 
 to wait full two hours until other horses could be procured. Scarcely 
 however had he proceeded two miles from the posthouse when he was 
 attacked by a gang of robbers on the road, pillaged of all his pro- 
 perty, and left half dead from the wounds he received. On our arrival 
 at Rome we found the poor fellow in a most dangerous state and left 
 him so at our departure. 
 
 Having escaped this danger as well as the malaria of the Pontine 
 marshes, we arrived at sun-rise on the Alban Mount, and then first 
 
ROME. 377 
 
 came in view of the Eternal City, that " Sceptred Queen," and mistress of 
 the ancient world. In a few more hours we passed over the Campagna, 
 alighted at the hotel in the Piazza di Spagna, and from thence proceed- 
 ed instantly to St. Peter's. Urgent business demanding the attendance 
 of Mr. Parker in England, we could give only four days to the inspec- 
 tion of this interesting capital, the asylum of unfortunate greatness, the 
 refuge of dethroned power, whose mournful ruins casting a gloom over 
 the splendour of its modern edifices, strongly point out the vanity of all 
 human grandeur and sooth the bitterness of human calamity. "Rome," 
 says the elegant authoress of Corinne, " Rome depuis long-temps est 
 l'asile des exil6s du monde; Rome elle meme n'est elle pas detronee! 
 son aspect console les rois depouilles comme elle." Rome had only a 
 short time before our arrival recovered her venerable pontiff. It was no- 
 tified to us that in two days he intended to hold his first levee and we 
 determined to offer our congratulations to his Holiness upon so happy 
 an occasion. In the mean time we had the unexpected pleasure of meet- 
 ing with our old friend Mr. Fiott Lee, who like the wandering Ulysses 
 had not yet arrived at his native isle; in the company of that gentleman 
 we visited the objects of greatest interest, and laboured so well in our 
 vocation that I have no doubt we saw as much in four days as some 
 persons have seen in as many weeks. The splendour of modern Rome 
 triumphs over the interest excited by its ancient ruins ; at least this was 
 the case with us, for we spent more than half our time within the walls 
 of St. Peter's and the Vatican. 
 
 On the fourth and last morning of our sojourn we were introduced, 
 or rather we introduced ourselves to the Pope on the first court-day, as 
 I before observed, which the holy Father had appointed since his return. 
 Having put four black horses to our carriage and taken a whole train 
 of lacqueys into our service, we proceeded to the pontifical palace on 
 Monte Cavallo, were saluted by the old Swiss guards, and advanced 
 into the great hall. This and the whole suite of apartments were filled 
 with cardinals, archbishops, bishops, and priests of all degrees, dressed 
 
 VOL. II. 3 c 
 
378 ROME. 
 
 in their most splendid robes, but all in confusion. No one seemed to 
 know his place and station, or the business for which he came; but all 
 were running about from room to room and treading upon each other's 
 heels. 
 
 Mr. Fagan, late English consul, had given his Holiness notice of 
 our intended introduction, but by reason of a sudden illness was unable 
 to present us. Mr. Fiott Lee having already had a private audience 
 did not accompany us, so that we set out upon this adventure alone 
 and unattended. The crowd of clerical courtiers all stared at us on 
 our entrance with a certain air of astonishment, but as they freely 
 gave way, we marched without interruption to the door of the pre- 
 sence chamber, where a considerable number of the highest dignita- 
 ries were assembled : here we were stopped, until a young page, in a 
 dress more like that of a girl than a boy, informed his Holiness of our 
 arrival. In a short time the door opened; we entered and reverently 
 saluted the Sovereign Pontiff, who was seated, in very plain attire, 
 upon a lofty seat within a raised gallery. His Holiness, with 
 great condescension, came down the steps, took us all affectionately 
 by the hand and gave us his blessing in the most gentle, pious, unaf- 
 fected manner possible: after this he entered into familiar conversa- 
 tion, standing with us on the floor of the apartment and holding my 
 hand, as the chief spokesman, clasped between his own. After we 
 had expressed our cordial sentiments of congratulation upon his 
 happy return, and had listened with no small degree of pride 
 to the unfeigned expressions of gratitude which this venerable and 
 dignified personage bestowed upon our country, to whose exertions 
 under Providence he was pleased to attribute that return, Ave talked 
 for a long time upon general subjects, but especially upon our travels, 
 in which the Pope appeared to take considerable interest. He asked 
 many questions concerning the state of Turkey and the modern 
 Greeks, as well as the splendid ruins of Athens ; but he inquired 
 more particularly about Spain and the events which we had wit- 
 1 
 
ROME. 371) 
 
 nessed in that quarter of the world. Mr. Synge having been engaged in 
 several Spanish campaigns as honorary aide-de-camp to General Pack, 
 and having but recently quitted the country, was enabled to gra- 
 tify his Holiness with many circumstantial and interesting details. The 
 whole of our conference occupied more than half an hour, during which 
 time the Pope continued to stand, expressing himself in a mild un- 
 assuming manner, not merely asking questions and receiving answers, 
 but encouraging us to enter with ease and freedom into a mutual 
 communication of ideas. At our departure his Holiness again gave us 
 his blessing, and it was not without sentiments of sincere respect that 
 we left this amiable man, apparently as little elated by returning 
 prosperity as he had been depressed by unmerited calamity. 
 
 After this audience we had an interview Avith Cardinal Paca, who 
 had been appointed pro-secretary of state in the absence of Gonsalvi. 
 The manners of the minister were different from those of the pontiff, 
 the one being characterised by all the elegance and ease of the complete 
 man of the world!, whilst the other was principally remarkable for his 
 air of primitive simplicity. After this visit we proceeded to contem- 
 plate the superb horses of Phidias and Praxiteles upon Monte Cavallo; 
 from whence we adjourned to inspect the papal stud, where Mr. Par- 
 ker set the whole stable in a roar of laughter, by asking to see the 
 Pope's favourite hunter: the chief groom, however, conducted the 
 inquirer to a fine white mule, called II santo Mulo, upon which the 
 holy Father rides in solemn processions. From hence we returned to 
 our hotel, visited Saint Peter's for the last time in the evening, and next 
 morning bid adieu to Rome. 
 
 We took what is called the upper road to Florence, for the purpose 
 of visiting the magnificent fall of the Velino near Terni, which, like 
 most waterfalls, greatly disappoints curiosity. We were however amply 
 recompensed by the exquisite scenery around Perugia and that beautiful 
 luxuriant valley, 
 
 Qua formosa suo C'lilumnus flumina ltico 
 Integit et niveos abluit undaboves. 
 
 3cS 
 
380 FLORENCE. 
 
 Our classical enthusiasm was soon afterwards excited in a still stronger 
 degree by the Lake of Thrasymene, and at Arezzo every chord of 
 sympathy vibrated at the recollection of the tender Petrarch. In 
 this latter place we arrived at the close of a lovely evening: the 
 town itself possesses no interest besides that which is connected with 
 the fame of its poet, yet we fully expected that we should have been 
 obliged to spend the night within its walls, because the post-master posi- 
 tively refused to give us horses ; and that for a reason which the reader 
 would not easily guess. The banditti upon the road forsooth were so 
 numerous that he expected they would be shot ! Our safety never once 
 entered into his contemplation : the lives of heretics were of little con- 
 sequence: but those of horses were very valuable — to their master. As 
 our plans however were decided for travelling day and night, we resolved 
 not to spare his cattle : accordingly we repaired, as we had occasion to 
 do in many instances, to the prefect of the city and procured an im- 
 press-warrant for the horses with which we immediately departed. 
 Luckily for the post-master, and possibly for ourselves, we were soon 
 overtaken by an Austrian patrole and convoyed through the most 
 dangerous part of the road, after which we arrived without any acci- 
 dent at Florence. 
 
 Here we intended to stay only two days, but were detained a third, 
 by a misfortune which occurred to Mr. Parker, from whom a packet 
 was stolen containing a small but exquisite collection of medals and 
 gems which he had made during his Grecian tour. Luckily we remem- 
 bered the impressions and legends of these antiques so well that we 
 were able to write out two tolerably complete lists, one of which we 
 left at the office of Justice and the other with Signore Sanbellino, the 
 master of the hotel Nouvelle York, whose exertions in their recovery 
 were unremitting and successful : they were purloined by a Jew who 
 came into the room to drive a bargain with Antonietti, and I mention 
 this circumstance for the sake of putting travellers on their guard 
 against personages of that description. Here we parted with great re- 
 
LYONS— PARIS- ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 38I 
 
 gret from our companion and proceeded over the Apennines, through 
 Bologna, Parma, Piacenza, and Alessandria, to the capital of Pied- 
 monte. In this beautiful city we remained two days and then com- 
 menced our passage over the Alps by the grand road of Mount 
 Cenis. All the mountains which we had hitherto beheld sunk when 
 compared in magnitude with the Alpine barrier of Italy ; but the 
 features even of this did not appear more striking or picturesque 
 than those of the fine Albanian chains which we had lately quitted. 
 On the road and indeed throughout the whole of northern Italy, we 
 had a series of escapes which now appear almost miraculous. Nearly 
 at every step of this route we met the disbanded soldiers of Buona- 
 parte's armies, sometimes single, sometimes in small companies, and at 
 other times in very large bodies. Accustomed as these men had been 
 for so many years to the most bloody deeds and the most licentious 
 rapine, we have great reason to bless Providence for our safety. 
 
 The next resting place was Lyons, where Mr. Parker, who had 
 omitted to lock his bed-room door, was again robbed in the night, as 
 well as Antonietti, who lost a gold repeater. Here we heard French- 
 men claim the victory at Thoulouse, and saw the bankers' counting- 
 houses full of English guineas. From Lyons we traversed the dull 
 monotonous plains of Burgundy and Champagne, without any inter- 
 mission, till we arrived in Paris. Even there we staid but one day 
 to take a transient view of the glories of the Louvre, and then set out 
 for Calais, where we arrived in safety, and feasted our eyes with 
 a distant prospect of our native shores. Upon those shores we landed 
 next day, and regretted no more the brilliant sun of Greece, her 
 purple vineyards, and her myrtle groves: for there is a secret charm 
 in the name of our Country which depends not upon external asso- 
 ciations, upon the magnificence of mountain scenery, or the fertility of 
 verdant plains : this amidst the venerable ruins of antiquity or the 
 wild grandeur of an untrodden soil, this brings us back in thought, and 
 chains down our souls to that land where we first awoke to human 
 
382 CONCLUSION. 
 
 sympathies, first heard the accents of benevolence, and experienced the 
 endearments of parental love; where intellectual light first dawned 
 upon our minds, to teach us the advantages of social union and the 
 real blessings of constitutional liberty; where we first raised our hearts 
 in gratitude to the Giver of all good and joined in the public worship 
 of our Creator. There the glory of our ancestors reposes, and there 
 we hope that we ourselves shall sink to rest. 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 AN INSCRIPTION ON THE HAN OF VALIARE; 
 
 A TRANSLATION INTO ROMAIC 
 
 LORD WELLINGTON'S DISPATCH ON THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO, 
 
 EXTRACTED FROM AN IONIAN GAZETTE. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 VERSES ON THE HAN OF VALIARE. 
 
 Srtyot irtpi T&v IBitnv To x 1 **'' BaXtapi ofitXit 
 irpoc rove l^aKoaitte aKOTWfitvug VapSiKtiirag. 
 
 n<xiror£ Tpiyti 6 Katpbe iroTt Stv ri<rv\d£ti 
 Ta irpay fiara ra KoafiiKa iy\nyopa raXXa&i 
 Etc fxcpiKovQ voXkatQ <j>opaig <j>tptt rflv tvrv\lav 
 K* £ts aXXous to ivavriov [itya\r)v Bvarv^lav 
 El^o- iy<^> irpwnjrfpa rats iropratc avoiy/xivate 
 Ma rwpa to tvavTiov race (i\t7ru> otyakiOfiivaiQ 
 Etc oXss fipovv irpoSvfioc, Va rove £vx a P <0T ^ < "'' 
 Ata/5aratg rat £jrtXot7rouc, firjmoQ cat £iirvx') <Th '> 
 'AXX' orav jjX&Tav fVftc 6'Xot pa'Ci Va 'fifirjrc, 
 Tide ; w "at 71 £7ra^£rav, fidvov Va KciTOiniiTt 
 Tatj iropratcjuou £KX£t<r£rav, kcu rr/v tftiKofcviav 
 Tt ljrov; icat iriic fytcfv ; £t/Kii £tc a7roptav. 
 
 A'-iroKpivovrai ol aicoriofitvoi tig to (3a\iapt 
 ro X a,,( ' 
 
 'AX»j7ra<ras flag rj^fpt x w P' c ™ $tKi)n<iftag 
 'Na Vapj) t^v ikSIktio-iv tig r& erfdXfiarafiag 
 O jxiyag Tt Kat <f>p6vtfiog airo tovq fitfrpde'tg 
 'Avrbg birov tTpofialt fltidtg Kat irairue'tg 
 "07rotoc Va 4>rat£>) £ts a'urov, cWa'tws tov iraiBtvti 
 Kat fit ?ov<piia Kat on-a-Si yX»;yopa roV tpovtvtt. 
 VOL. II. 
 
 VERSI Greco-volgari sulli stessi (Gardikioti) 
 il Chan (Osteria) di Valiare parla ai seicento 
 occisi Gardikioti. 
 
 Sempre il tempo corre e mai non si arresta 
 E presto cambia gli affari del mondo, 
 Ad altri spesso fortuna arreca 
 E ad altri l'opposto, miserie grandi. 
 Le porte aperte io avevo prima, 
 Non piu adesso, ma barricate le vedo. 
 Ognun aggradir sempre io era pronto, 
 Passanti ed altri, sperando di farmi felice. 
 Ma quando voi veniste ad entrare in folia 
 E come ? e qual disgrazia ? per alloggiare soltanto 
 Chiudeste le mie porte e 1' ospitalita insieme 
 Cosa e come questo fii ? io ignoro affatto. 
 
 Rispondono i Occisi. 
 
 II Visir Alipascia ci mend a nostro malgrado 
 Per tirar vendetta delle nostre offese. 
 Quel grande e saggio sopra i Visiri, 
 Quel che terror gia fu di Pascia e di Be 
 Giustamente egli punisce chi reo dinanzi a lui appaja ; 
 O con fucile, o con spada ad un momento l'occide 
 
 3d 
 
386 
 
 VERSES ON THE HAN OF VALIARE. 
 
 'OvrZaici MovT^o-^mrdTiKOV 'troiog SeXti 'va ^aXatrr) 
 'Aurds Va Jjvai fltfiaiog t6v (iiov StXtt x a< "J 
 'Oirbrav b 'AXr)-xatrag ijrov fiiKpd ira.iha.Ki 
 "OXoi itfitig tTpi£,afitv tig to Xafiirpbv 'Ovt^Akl 
 "Or' bptpavog a-nofxtivtv die' roV dvTOv varipa. 
 Atv li%tv ciXXov aitXtpov fid fibvov Tt)v firtripa' 
 'Tlrtyafitv Va tov KO\ptDfitv fie rapfiara 'g to \ipi 
 
 Kdt dvTOQ W£ tTTlTTlb'tlOg tTTtjpt TO -^ClflTcipl 
 
 Kdt fiXiiroVTag ir&>g iijtvyt KTVirovaafitv rd T?';-Jta 
 '2 r^>' Kapyiavijj' virriyafitv tov Ka\pafitv rd mciiTia 
 Kdi ct7r' tKtivov tov Katpov tivai trtvrjvra ygovoi 
 Kdi tcdfivti rrjv avTafioifltiv* T<opa ti)v reXeioVei 
 Ala rSro /icce taKOTWtrtv ifiag tew J ro x a,/ ' 
 "O7rou civtoq o ipovog fiag fieg' tov Covviav Va iravij 
 Tovs wpwrove Kai fttyaXugfiag 'g ra IaVvtva r»c tpipvti 
 Tovg tTTtXvti tripa 'c ro v?7<ri ev5vc Kai roug (povtvei 
 Kai OKopiriat rate ipafiiXiaig, t'tg oXug rovg Kafa&c 
 Neatc rt /cat y£poVri<7<7atc 7ratcta 7£ (Cat vvfitpaStg 
 Kai irarpiBa rr)v Bvt7Tv)(ij avanotia yvpifci 
 "Ei/yaXt ra StfiiXia oXrjy rjjv ufavifci 
 'Eirpdtrrafc 7ravroTtvd Kaveig fir) KaTOiKrjotr 
 'Na fitlvr) tTtri 'iptrfiog iSelg 'va fit)v ti)v ktioi) 
 To 2our£i 671-ou Kafiafitv fiiKaiwg Tt)v prtfiovei 
 Aior' eiva: fiiratoc ttqXv *cai ro aVrairXcpdVcs 
 "Ofiiog tab 'g to tvSo^ov cat iraXatoi' ^aafitri 
 'ErSro Vow <rov Xiyofitv 'va to i\r\g dfiavtTi 
 'Na avfifiovXtvrig iraarpiKd 'va ciBrjQ to -)(afnripi 
 'O7T0V 'g to T^aKi to Xafiirpbv 'va fit) ariKioaovv \ipi 
 2vfi[3ovXtv£ fit •;o , )(a<rfii)v oaovg tEio Siajiaivovv 
 'Na ro Ktjpv^ovv Kai dvrol owov Kai av irtiyatvovv 
 Ata' Va fir) iraSovv Kai dvrol rd oaa tfitig rwpa 
 'Oirov flag taKOTioatv tbSvg tig fiiav wpav 
 KaSatg irori to tiraSav (cat Xop/to/3trat 'tciivot 
 'No rovg OKOT&iaovv irpbaTai,t Kavtig 'va fit) 'trofitivr). 
 
 'E/c fxippVQ tov virepraTov Bffip?) 'AXt'iiratra 
 Trpog rovg ytiTOVOvg tov, 
 
 'Ey« pt£vp 'AXriirao-ag biTOTav evSvfiSfiat 
 Kvtov roV fityav OKoriofibv tcaTairoXXd Xvtrovfiai 
 tlXiov irapbfioiov icaicbv TTOTtfiov 'h*ev rd SiXu 
 Aid tuto tovs yurbvug fiov oXug roitg irapayyiXu 
 
 E chiunque la casa di Mutzochuso offenda 
 
 Sicuro egli sia che perdera la vita 
 
 Noi, mentre Alipascia era un piccolo fanciullo 
 
 Tutti corremmo contro la sua splendida casa 
 
 PercLe, morto il padre, Orfano egli limase 
 
 E non aveva fratello, se non sola la madre : 
 
 Noi andammo tagliarlo, colle armi in mano 
 
 Ma lui accorto ne prese avviso 
 
 E noi scappar lo vedendo ci battemmo il petto ; 
 
 A Karghiani andammo, ed ivi gli abrucciammo le case. 
 
 E da quel tempo ormai cinquant' anni sono 
 
 E ne fa la ricompensa adesso, 
 
 Onde ci massacro in quest' Osteria 
 
 Affinche nostra strage tutto '1 mondo pervada. 
 
 A Giannina indi porta i nostri capi e grandi 
 
 All' isola opposta gli manda, e fa occiderli presto 
 
 E le famiglie disparge per tutti i distretti 
 
 Donne Giovani e Vecchie, donzelle e fanciulli 
 
 E sassopra mette la patria infelice 
 
 Ne scava i fundamenti e tutta la rade : 
 
 Ordine diede che niuno vi possa mai abitare ; 
 
 Che sia un deserto, e nissun fabricar la ardisca 
 
 Per il nostro delitto e, che lui con ragion la divasta 
 
 Perche egli e giusto a«sai, e lo ripaga 
 
 Ma tu per quell antico e glorioso servigio 
 
 Tieni in pegno queste nostre parole 
 
 Da consiglj chiari, da sempre avvisi 
 
 Che contro la splendida casa nissuno insorga 
 
 Ed avverti da senno tutti i passanti 
 
 Dichiarar lo a tutti quei, che passano mai 
 
 Per non aver soflfrire quanto noi adesso, 
 
 Che Ali ci diede morte subito in un istante, 
 
 E quanto anche i Chormoviti, quelli gia noti 
 
 Ch' occisi fossero voile, e vivo nissun restasse. 
 
 Da parte del eccellentissimo Vezir Alipascia ai suoi 
 Vicini. 
 
 Io Alipascia Vizir quando mi viene in mente 
 Questo gran massacro m' affligo molto 
 E di un tal guasto non avro piu mai desio 
 Ed e percio che raccomando a tutti i vicini miei 
 
VERSES ON THE HAN OF VALIARE. 
 
 387 
 
 'Hov 7t\iov rd 'Or^aVtfJOv Va firi kuko irotrioovv 
 AXXd Va vmrdooiavTai. Bid Va zvto\i](TOvv 
 Kat otTot <pavovv vtti\kooi kcu Va Todyamiauv 
 'Avrol Va jjvat fliftawi TtoWd KcCKd Va £?/<rovv 
 Etc rovs x'^ IOW £ SwSckcl irpoj roOj i^amxrlus 
 "Eyivt rovro rd ra/cdv tic aurouc roue dSXiug 
 Eie htKairzVTt tov Maprlu, Jlapairi;cvt)v rifiipav 
 To fetavd*' a'vroS Koved 7)tov irpde rqi' koiripav. 
 
 Che non molestino piu la mia propria casa 
 
 Ma che ne sian soggetti se vogliono esser felici 
 
 E quei che obbedienti vedransi, ed affezionati ad essa 
 
 Sian certi che molto felice passeranno la vita 
 
 Nel mille e dodici con seicento insieme 
 
 Tal strage avvenne a questi infelici 
 
 Nei quindici di Marzo, Venerdi era il giorno 
 
 Verso occidente inclinava il sole, s'avvicinava la sera. 
 
 Spiegazione di pochi termini turchi che 
 Occorrono in questa inscrizione. 
 
 'Or^aKi ovvero 'Oerfri'/a.] Propriamente significa il cammino, quel lupgo della casa dove si fa il fuoco: si 
 prende pero per dinotar tutta la casa o famiglia di Grandi in Turchia. 
 
 MovTfaxovadTiicovJ] Cioe di Mutzo-Chuso il quale era 1' avolo di Alipascia per qual nome si conosce tra gli 
 Albanesi la sua famiglia. 
 
 Xa/xTrtpiJ] Notizia, avviso. 
 
 Aovvid ovvero vrouvyia.] Parola Araba, significa 1' universo, ed il mondo. 
 
 Kafa&c.] Ka£ac Caza, in Turchia si chiama un distretto di qualque provincia grande. 
 
 Soirfi.] Delitto, fallo. 
 
 Xow<r/jtV(.] Servizio. 
 
 'A^iaye'ri.J Pegno. 
 
No. II. 
 
 [As it has now become a custom to give a Specimen of the Romaic Language, 
 or Modern Greek, in the Appendix to Grecian Travels, 1 here present the 
 reader with a Translation of Lord Wellingtons Dispatch on the Battle of 
 Waterloo, extracted from an Ionian Gazette, published at Corfu.] 
 
 AOOYNINr-STPEET. 
 
 O T«/u<irarO£ Mayyeopos Eppiroc Tlepaij tyBaatv t^flec Tpoc to iarc'pac, (j>ipiov eva t£ 0(p(piKiov 
 ypafi/ia tov Apyi'spaTrtyov Aovkos OviWivyrov, Initiate £<-' tov Tayyuoroc tov T/caprep, 7rpoe toV KdpMjra 
 Ba0oi)p?, ttoHtov it, AvopprjTuiv rrjc E7ricparE('ac rnc A. M. etc to tin rd Trp&yftara tov ttoXcuov eViora- 
 tovv 0<jxplKiov. to &VTtypa<pov Xoiirov tovtov etvai to IikoXovBov. 
 
 OvartpXoov, 19 Iovw'ov, 1815. 
 
 MtXap^ ! A^' ov d Bofa7raprtc avvr)8potac to 1. 2. 3. 4. Kal 6. aw/xa tov VaWiKov Srparfi/iaroc, 
 rijv AvTOicpaTopiicrjv ^poupdv, /»ai o\ov to lirmKov tov oytCov, ivavia eh ri)V oydr)v tov hot : Hafifipa, 
 Kal avd fiiaov tov YLorafxov tovtov Kal tov Mdfa, airo rite 10 tov Tpe%ovTOs eo>e toq 14, rag 15 rrpoc 
 to i»;^Ep<ijuara eTrpo\uipr)ac Kal tkriurijire raj T07rosa<riac riv npow(T<rwy Etc to ToOtv icat AoflerZ rac £7" 
 
 TOV WOT : SdujSpaV. 
 
 Eyii EXa/lov Tt)v liSriatv Tavrrjv rag 15 irpoe to itnripaQ, teat £dtdpi<ra aus'trwc t4 <rpar£u/tara vd 
 iToifxao'Qioo'i Trpoc EV^paTEtav. aXV £i/6Ve ottou ijKovo'a, oti >/ d\rj8ric £(J>oooq tov Ly8pov ouvOvveto ttooq 
 to 2apXepoa, tyw EcUdpttra ra ^paTCVfiaTa/xae vd Ktvrfdwai. Kara rii dpi^tpd : o t^dpoq Xonrov rijv rifiipav 
 eKeivrjv e<S/'w£e tovs ITpowtroue ajrd tcie tl^Qae rou 7tot : Safifipa, Kal d STparijyoc 2-iidtv, 5<; rtf di<5j)youff£ 
 Ta auifiara, baa wporepov fuptoxovTO tic to SapXcpod, dirtTpafii%8ti vpog to $>\iovpov£. O 2rpaTapx>je 
 BXovtTo-Ep EtniyaiiE to •spdrtvfia tis ev kiravii) tig to 2oujdp£^>, 'iywv rd ^wpta tov Ay : Apdvc* Kal to 
 Aivrj nwivavTi ttjc Toiro^aoiaq tov. 
 
 O i\8poc ilinicoXovBriot Trjv impartial/ tov irpog tov ipo^iov tov dizo t6 SapXfpod Trpdg fiiv Bpou- 
 Jt'XXjjr, Kal to "idiov lo-7r£pac tiov \o iitTvirrjoe fxiav orrtipav tov trrpaTtv/iaroc twv KaTUt-Xiapuv, »j owoia 
 
SPECIMEN OF THE ROMAIC LANGUAGE. S89 
 
 iiBriye'iro and rov Tlpiyyirra rov fHi/iap, Kai Jfrov <sparoireBtvfiivt) tie rd Qpaavt, Kal rijv i)va.y- 
 Kaae vd viro-^iapiiaig irpde eva viro^ariKdv Ktlfitvov iirdvio tie rov 'LBiov avroV Bpo/xov, Kai KaKovpteyov 
 Kovdrpt Bpd£. 
 
 O HpiyKtip rov Opavi iveBwdfiiaatv a/xeVwc ti)v airelpav ravrriv fie /liar aXXijv Ik rijc IBias 
 iaXayyot, »; biroia uiBr/ye'iro airb tov ErpaTTfybv TlipirovKer, Kal rrfv avyr)v ry rrpiti'i avrrf eXafiev oiriaio 
 iva fiipoe rrje roiroBeaiae bxoii i\aatv, eie rpoirov on Karijir^aXio-flij iraXiv r) avrairoKpioie if Sid tov 
 Bpofiov rrje Ni/5tXX»)c irpoc rrfv Bpoi/iJeXXi/v, jut r^v TojroTaffiai' rou Srparapxov BXoSffirtp. 
 
 Sic roow lyw BuvBvvov 6\ov to apdrevfia vpbe to Kouarp£-Bpac, Kal fi rrifiirrti <pdXayyapxia jj virb 
 rt)v bBriyiav tov Avrizparriyov Sep Ow/iae Uiktov eipBaaev IkeZ mpl rae euw <5paj sat fitoiiv rrje r)fiipae 
 iKiivifg, aKoXovBve i^iBact ro ^panwrtKor o&fia tov Aovkoc row Bpouv<r/3iK, Kai fitr avrb, to iwifidXXov 
 vpaTitoTticbv fiipoe rrje Naa<ro/3iac. 
 
 Etj to ftera^v tovto b ixBpbe dpxi<re vd Krvira tov Xipiyyina BXoi/<r<7fp fit bXae tov rae Bvvdfieie, 
 ilatpovfiivwv tov irpi/rov Kal tov Bevrepov owfiaror, Kal evue aiifiaros iiririKov tnrd rr)v bBrjyiav rov Kvpiov 
 2rpar»/yo5 KeXXepfiav, fie rd biro'ia eKrvm\ae rifv iBiKi)v fiae roiroBtaiav tt)v iiri tov KouarpE-Bpdj. 
 
 Td UpovaaiKov Srpartw/ua iBiavBivrevae ri)v laitosaaiav tov fit ti)v avvrfBifrov dvBpiav Kal laBeporrfra, 
 ivavriov fiide Bwdfieme ^parevfidrwv davyKpiriiie fityaXtfripae, eireiBr) Biv tT%£ tyBdori &k6ui em 
 ovre to riraprov ^paruoriKov tov o&fia, to virb Tt)v oBifyiav row 2rpar?;yoC BouXo^i, ovre iyui i)fiiropovoa vd 
 to fioijBrjou), KaBwe to iireBvfiovaa, iireiBii b l\Bpbe eKTVirovoev iv ravry Kai ifie tov 'to'iov, Kai |jr£ieq rd 
 •zpartvfiaTafiov, Kai fidXiza to 'nrirucbv, iiodv birov iSrpcTrt vd Kaftovv tpofiov iroXvv, lev tl\ov dtcofii 
 (pBdeti. Hfieis Xoiwbv SuTjfpriaafiCv airapaflia^ov Tt)v roiroBcalav fine, dircKpovaafitv oXoreXoif, Kai 
 dirtceitafiev fiaralae oXac rde irpoff/SoXac tov e)(Bpov, Suae ttcafie KaB' rifiHv Bid vd Tt)v Kvpuvary. 
 AXX' avroe fide (KTiwriacv £K civripov fie. eva iroXvdpiBfiov iv ravrji nririKov Kai ire£ucbv, virosripiiifieva 
 axo fiiav fieyaXtjv Kai ia\vpdv ApTiXXiepiav. Aiirbe eKafie 7roXXac i<j>6Sovs fie to imnKov tov ivavriov 
 tov ire£iKov fiae, a'XX' direKpuvrrBrfaav oXai tie rd oniao) fie Ttjv irXiov dtcafiiTTOV TaOfporrjra. To B. A. 
 V, 6 I[p«yKii// rov Opdvf, o Aoiil; tov BpovvafiiK, b AvTiirTpdrr)yoe 2«p Owfiae IUktujv, b Mayytop 
 Srpar)jyo£ 2fp I. lie/inT, b Sep A. IlaK, o'irivee tvpiBrjaav els r))v fid-^vv Tavrrjv airb ti)v dp-p/v rije 
 KaO' tjfiwv etyohov tov if(Bpov, eBeixBvav inrepflaXXovTioe Bavfidaioi, Ka0we vpoiren Kai b Ayr«rrpa'rj)yoc 
 KapoXos Bap : AXr£v, o Mayyiop Xrpar^ybe Sfp T. Oa'XKEp, 6 AvriarpaTnyoe K«, Kai 6 Mayyiop 
 Srparijyos MatrXa^, Kai o Bi/vy, Kafl' oaov 'iXafiev eicaTOs avrwv fiepos els Tt)v ftdxvv- Td ^pareiifiaTa 
 rffs Trefiirrris ipaXayyapxlas Kai iice'iva tov Bpovvo-fiiK iiroXefirjaav Bid 7roXXr)v &pav Kai fie woXXrfv iiaiv, 
 Kai i^ipBrjaav dvcpewraTa. Eyw Sfiwe Trpiirei vd dva(j>ep<o ibio pr/rioe Kai Kar' iiiO\t)v rd rdyfiara 28, 
 42, 79, Kai 92, Kai d)v 'TLwTaKoaiapxiav tuiv Avopepifav. 
 
 O Be eBiKoefiae x"/^ £yi'£ fieydXos, Ka0wc >j E. irac, BeXei IBt'i aVo tov wepiKXeioBevTa KardXoyov. 
 dXXd Trpo iravros aXXov iyio irpeirei vd o-vyKXdvaio Kar i£,o-)(flv to Y. rov, rdv VaXrjvorarov AoiKa rov Bpo- 
 vvoflhc, 6 curoloc iipovev&rj fiaxbfievos lipu/iKws £fi rijs KefaXrje riiv 2rpaTevfidru>v rov. 
 
 Merd ravra 6 SrpardpxiC BXouo-ff£p, fi oXov birov ei^e BiaxpvXdi;ri dTrapafiia<zov ri]v eie to SofifipeQ 
 TOTtoBeoiav tov, tvpeBi) Sfiuis rbaov dBvvaroe aVci ri\v ai/Tijpor^ra rijs fidxiS, eie rrjv biroiav elxev ififirj, 
 Kai roaov vepiaabrepov, iiretBrj Bev elxev aKOfii <pBdmr\ ene't rb riraprov crijfid rov, u;c birov diredidcriae vd 
 inrox^PV'JIt ^ai vd avvd^ri rb ^rpdrevfud rov eie iv iirdvia tie rb Ovdf3pte. Avrbe Xoiirbv riiv vwra 
 fspartvat irpoe iictivo rb fiipoe vstpov ajro riiv fidx"nv. 
 VOL. II. 3 E 
 
390 SPECIMEN OF THE ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 
 
 To Kivtjfta tovto tov irpopprfBivTOg Srpara'pxoo pi ifvdyKaot vd Kapta Kat iyui rd "tfaov Ktvtfpa, Kat fad 
 tovto t-pafiiyftqv dirb to biroraTtKov rov Kovdrpt-flpag tirdvw clg rd rtviirirt, Kat air Ut't iirdvia tig T d 
 ObartpXoov rag 17 rj> irptA irtpl rag 10 tjipag. 
 
 O £xfy"> c ^tv rfdiXr)(rt vd iirtyotptcrBy iravTtXHg fad vd Karafaitfy rdv 'SrpaTdpyifv UXoutrato, 
 dXXd paXtia pla WKTOfyvXaKi}, rrfv birolav iirtp\pa irpbg to Sopfipitp rrfv awyjjV, tvpt rd irdvra tv 
 >/<"'X'?» *-' a ' 0< KardaKoirot rov iydpov cnrtrpajiifavTa, Saov ireptaaoi cpov tttpo\upovatv r) vvktoQv- 
 XaKrj pov. 
 
 Abrbg irpbg rovrotg Siv iirpoavdOiat pljrt vd ivo-jfXiiarf rr]v £t£ rd oiriaot tK^parclav pag, p'oXov birou 
 iyivtro avTt) Kara rrjv &pav rov pt<rr)ptpiov, dXXd KartfauiKt povov to liririKdv rd bird rrfv bfafytav tov 
 Kdpjroj ObZflpi<)yt pi iroXv irXrjdog tiririKdv, to oto'iov tl^t to TpafSity dirb faUbv tov Ktpag. 
 
 Tovto ifaoKtv alriav irpbg t6v Koprira tov OvZfipiByt vd itpopprftrt) pi rd irp&TOv Tdypa rrjg <j>povpdg 
 tov it-kikov crwparog, iv jJ rd i\9ptKdv Iwwucdv itb>ppr)<Ttv dirb to x^p'ov tov rtvdirirt : tig Ttjv irtphaatv 
 ravDjv iipoXbyrfotv }] E. tov, oti %tov tig to aKpov tvyapizripivos dirb to cvvtrbv <pipotpov tov Jdypa- 
 
 TOg TOVTOV. 
 
 H ditrtg, rrjv birolav iyu> KariXafiov dirivavrt tov OvartpXoov, iKaXvwTC tov BaaiXtKov Ipbpov tov 
 ^apXtpoa iripbg Tt\v Nt[liXXr)v, icai to piv BtZtbv r>js pipog inXivt irpbg tva Kprfpvbv irXrfolov tov MtpK- 
 
 ppatVt, TO V1TOWV flTOV KVpttVptVOV '. TO fa\ dpt<7tpOV TIJC QtTtlvtTO 7TpO£ IVO. X6(fOV VirtpdvioOtV TOV XwplOV 
 
 Ttp-Aa-Xai/e, to biro'tov jjroi/ Kat abrb irapopoluig Kvpttvpivov. 
 
 AirivavTt tov fa^wv kivrpov, KaJ irXrjaiov tov ^pd/uou t?i$ Ni/Je'WijCi ^«'C iiridaafiiv rb oom'iTtov Kat 
 to TTipipoXeuov ObyovfxbvT, to biro'iov kfaavdevrtvt ttjv 'nriTpo<pifv tov irXayiov fiipovg tov Ifaov abrov, 
 Kat cnrivavTt tov api«pou Kivrpov iirtdoapitv to brro^artKov tov Xaij-Sa/irt. EXa/So/xtv Xotirbv 
 avrawoKpiatv TtXyjaiov tov apt^cpov/iac fie tov XrpaTap^rjv HpiyytTra UXovatrep dirb to Obaflpts fad. 
 ftiaov rov Xdtiyu: Kal 6 Hrparapxic aurdc pot £lx cv vTroaytady, avtaus kcii ijOtXt //as KTVirt'iat) b fx^POfj 
 va fit (3or)dtjari pi tva Kat fit TtptaaoTipa awfiara, Kara Tr)v %ptiav. 
 
 O ct i^Bpos ovvri&poioi rd ^pdrtvfid tov, ii,atpovfiivov tov Tptrov owftaroQ (to biro'tov tl%t irifixj/ri fad 
 vd vapa<j>vXdTTri rd Kivriftara tov 2rparapxov BXoDffirtp) iirdvta tig fiepiKovg X6<j>ovs avvStfafiivove tov 
 tva fit tov o.XXov dirivavTt iffiuiv, Kard rffv vvKra rrjv fttra^v rSiv 17 sal 18: SOev ap-^rfat irtp\ to\q 10 
 tupac fiiav fiavtiidr) irpoafioXriv tvavriov tT)q Btatuig fiag Trjt iv't tov Ovyovfiovr. Eyu fKparouira ri)v Qiatv 
 tKtivrjv fit tva fitpog rrjg airtlpag twv tppovpwv, ijrig i>ir)ytiro dirb tov Zrpartfybv Bijvy, og rtg 7jtov 
 BTparoTrtctvfiivog oirtadtv ri)g avrrjg diaitog : b, antipa avrt] fatvdvvdij fiixp' Ttvbg dirb rbv AvTt%tXiapy(ov 
 MaydovaXS, Kat tirttra dirb tov XtXi'apxov Xbfit. Aa/i^avta bftug ri)v tb\apl-rjoiv vd aag rrpoo-Otatv, 
 oti i; dtertg avrij fatTr)ph,Or) oXriv tKitvt)v rifv fjfiipav fit t>iv fityaXrjTtpav avvtatv dirb rd dvlptia ravra 
 spaTtvfiara, ft oXov oirou aiiftara iroXvaptdfta tov i\dpov iirt-)(tipia&tiaav clg Kai woXXaKif va rijv 
 Kvpttvauiatv. 
 
 H TrpocpoXi) Sfiug airtf tov tyBpov Kara tov fattov ftipovg tov Ktvrpov fiag IfaavOivrivtro tv Tavru 
 Kat dirb mvoviag dfaaKOTrovg ivavTtov 6'Xou tou irt(tkoii fiag, to bvo'tov 7)tov Ittaptofiivov vd faavOtv- 
 TtvOy diro rag aXXtiraXX^Xous iipoiovg tov nrirtKov Kat tov irt£tKov tov t\dpov, irort fitv tvtufiivwv bfioH 
 ttg rag irpoapoXdg Tavrag vort b~t Kat xuiptofiivtiiv. Odtv 6 t)(dpbg tKvpitvatv tig fiiav diro rdg ityblovg 
 ravrag to biroaraTtKov tov Xai;-Satvrt, iirttfa) Kat t6 fitpog rrjg IXatfipar iirraKoatapjfia rov Xtytiivog, 
 to oiro'tov ti)v tKvpiivtv, it\t TtXtiiitrri oXa rd iroXtfitKa dvayald tov, Kat iirttCi) b i\t)pds cl)(t faaKotpn 
 rrjv ftovrfv avrairoKptaiv ttjv fitralii Tr)g Oiatmg rains, Kai row SrpaTtii/xaTOE pag. 
 
SPECIMEN OF THE ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 391 
 
 O iyOpbg IktvitijOCV dXXtwaXXtiXwg to ite£ik6v flag /it t6 Ittkikov tov, dXX' al TrpoaftoXal avrai iaradj]- 
 <rav avpaKTOi Kal fiaraiai, Kal e'cWav a<j>opfii)v va Kafiy to iinnKOi'fiag tiafbpovg ifoiovg, tig fiiav euro 
 rag birolag ?; inrtipa tov AbpS E. 'Zbfifitpatr >'/ awTiBtfiivt] Into rag oiDfiaTOtypovpug, kal airb Tag ippovpag 
 rag (SaaiXiKug, Kal airo to irpiiroy Tayfia twv <j>povpwv twv ipayovwv, iht'iy&ri tig to iiKpov av?ptia, 
 nadiog vpbg rovroig Kal tKtivrf tov Mayyiop Zrparijyoii Stp V. llovoofifir), fit to va tirrjpt iroXXovg al%ua- 
 Xwrovg Kal tva Atrbv. Ta Kvim'ifiaTa Tavra iyivovro awt-ft) KaL <iXXc;raXXjjXa iiog rag 7 &pag rrjg 
 tairtpag, birorav 6 i^Spbg t</>£)pfiriot Kad' tifiiov airtyvwa/itvog fit to ivinKdv ko.1 fit t6 wt^iKov tov, viroa- 
 Ttjpilibfitva Kal airo t>)v dSiaKoirov ipiOTtav rrjg ApTiXXitpiagrov, ha va awTpitpr) to dpiartobv flag KivTpov, 
 t6 TrXrjtriov tov virooTaTiKov tov Xuj/e-Saivr. AXX' >; bpfir) tov airr) vortpov aVd filav kpartpdv avji- 
 ■xXoKt)v, aVorarioTJ) fiaraia. 08tv timet) iyw eibov, oti ra Srartv/uara tov t)(8pov cnrtTpafii£ovTO dird 
 tt)v 7rpo<r/3oX)/>' ravTifv fii fityaXioTarrfv dra£eW, Kal on t6 ^Tpdrtv/ia tov 2rpar»;yoS Y5ov\6<p, to cnrolov 
 tOTpaTtvt Sta rijg bSov tov VjvatpfidvT Trpdg rci ilXavatvopr Kal 7rpdc tov totzqv tov KaXovfitvov BeXXt 
 dXXiavart, apx<-£t va ivtpyi), Kal r) (jtwria tiov Kavoviiov tov 7\tov r\br\ dirtvavri rw 6<j>6aXfiuiv fiov Kal 
 lirtiBi] 6 HpiyKiyp BXoDffirtp ji tl-^t irpofddo-rj b 'tfiog irpowiriKws fit eva triofia tov OTpaTtvfiaTog tov Kara 
 t6 dpitrrtpov /JLtpog Ttjg nrt^iKrjg oupag /tag nXifaiov tov Xbeifi, iyw dirtupaoioa tote va ktv irriaio tov 
 lyBpdv, Kal ibibpiaa Trapevdvg va Trpo\wpi)arj 6Xov to irt£iKbv, vti;ooTr)pi£bfiivov Kal ami to nririKov Kal 
 dird Trjv AprtXXteplav. H irpo<r/5oX») ovrr; tviofwdrf cat EvBoKifiijo-e Kad' oXarjjc ra ftipr). O iyfipbg 
 \onrbv KaTr)vayKaa6if va 7rapairii<rij rifv eirl rovg X6<povg roirooTaaiav tov, iTpairt) clg (j>vy>iv fiird fiiyioTijg 
 dra&ag, Kal &<j>r]ae, Kaflaic tyw rjfnropovaa va KaraXaftw, eKaroV vtvijvTa Kavovia fit oXarovg ra yptia^o- 
 fitva, to. bvoia iircaov etg rrjv i^ovaiav /lag. Eyw i^KoXovdrjaa va KaTaStuiKO) rbv e^flpoV i\-fi)'»/i' wpnr 
 fitTa ttjv ivaiv tov HXi'ou, Kal fiovov liravaa fitrd tovto dirb tov va tov KaraStwKu, tTreibt] dirr]vh)o-av to. 
 XTpaTtifiarafiov, ra birola tlyov iroXtfiiio-rf fiia 12 wpag bXoKXripovg Kara avvi\tiav, Kal imih) avvaxav 
 T{]6r\v tig tov 'iSwv Cpofiov fit tov ^Tparapyrfv BXoO<T<TEp, Kal fit tptflaiwatv, otl ti\tv dirotyaoiori va 
 Kara^t<i|)) tov ix^ 0,/ Ka ^ oXijv tKtivtjv TtfV vvKTa: odtv fiol tTrtfi\ptv avTog aiffitpov ti\v avytjv ti]V 
 t'Ldrfoiv, on tTtrjptv 60 Kaj'oVia Ik rrjg AvTOKparopiKijg <j>povpag, Kal Hia<p6povg anouKcvag Kal vpay/iaTa tov 
 Bova7rapre. 
 
 E^w OKOirbv va vpo-j(u)pi](!i>> cri'ifitpov r>)v avyi)v irpbg t>)v NiptXXriv, Kal va firf izavaio rd iroXtfiiKaftov 
 Kivrifiara. 
 
 H E. aag Trpivti va arifuiuar), on fiia /lax*) r ""ov trtpoUpa Kal irtio-fiarwc'tig c~tv yfinopovirt va trvfiflij, 
 fiifTt va. /idg caio-p Toaa Tpbiraia yuplg fityaXov ^afibv orpanwrwi', »;ai fit Xvirtl to va aag irpoatiiotit, 
 Sti b tSiKocfiag j^afibg tyivtv aireipog. y A. M. vo-Ttpovfitvog tov AvriuTpaTrfyov Sep Qoifiav [Iiktov, 
 vBTtpidr) iva OffiKiciXov, bg Tig ictl^Oi] apiaTog TtoXXoTaTaig ipopalg tig ti)v SovXtvatv tov, avTog 
 itpovtvdri tviolwg birjywv t>)v cpaXayyapy^iav tov tig fiiav tifioEov fit rrfv fiayiovirrav, <!id fiiaov rijg 
 biroiag cnrtKpovaBt) fiia imb Tag la^ypurtpag TrpoafloXiig tov t)(6pov tvavTiov rrjg diatiogfiag. O Kbarfg 
 tov Ov£,fipicyt, a<f ov l-xoXifiifatv tvTvywg bXrjv Tt)v xaXtirrjv Tavrtfv Kal apyaXiav i/fiipav, iXaftiiBri tig 
 Trjv voTtpav ay(tcbv tfoSov, cia rb bizo'wv <j>oftovfiai, on >; M. tov OtXtt oTtprjBij ti)v BovXtvaiv tov Bia 
 voXvv Kaipbv. 
 
 To B. A. Y. o HpiyKup tov OpavZ tceiy^dri apiarog, Siii Tt)v avlpiav tov Kal to KaXbv tyipaiftov tov, ioig 
 otov tXajiiidri tig tov bifiov airo 'iva jioXiov TovtptKtov, fi o Kal iivayKaodrj va. dva-^wpiftTn aVo to 
 
 'ZTpaTOTtlCOV. 
 
3.92 SPECIMEN OF THE ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 
 
 Moi Zlctt Axpav tvxapiartjaiv to va i)fnrnpu> vii fitfiaiwau) ti)v E. aag, on irori aXXort civ ifip 
 orpartvfia fit rvat)v dvZpiav Kai ytvvaiorrira. H </>aXayyap^ia rrjg Qpovpdg >; tiro r»)c bbrfyiav rov 
 Avriarparriyov Koik, 6 bvolog iXaflioOij flapiiog, Kai 01 Mayytopoi Srparijyoi MdtrXarci, Kai 6 (3ijvy, 
 kcuiKav 'iva irapdSttyfta, to biro'tov to ifiifiijBriaav iiXoi: Kai biv virap\ti, riXog vdvriov, firfrt d^intiiari- 
 k'og, fit'irt udog Kaviva aTpartvfiaTiav, oi biroloi va fitjv iipipdrjaav dvSptiwg Kai dhoxpiwg. 
 
 Eyii trpirrti v dva(f>iptu xar Hoxw (cud r^g iirtKvpdtatuig tov B. A. Y.) rov AvTiarpdrrfyov Stp X. 
 KXivrov, tov May. Srpar. ABap, tov Avriarparriyov KdpoXov Bapiiv AXrtv, tov May. Srpar. Sep KoXXiv 
 AXk£t, olrivtg iXaj3b>6r)Tav fiapiwg, tov XtXiapxov Ofnrpilav, Kai Mt^ai/X, 6'e tic bfrjyovat fiiav airtipav 
 rrjg TtrdpTtie i'dXayyog, tov May. Srpar. Aafi/iipT, tov May. Srpar. AapS E. Zofifitpaer, tov May. 
 Zrpar. Sep T. Tlovaofipij, tov May. Srpar. Sep K. TpcW, 70*- May. Srpar. Sep A. BifltUfi, tov May. 
 Srpar. I. BavSeXeovp, tov May. Srpar. Koftrfra Aopvfiipy. Eyw jrpof rovroig el/tat Kara iroXXd viro- 
 Xpewc 7rpoc rov Srpar. AopS H\, &d r^v 7rpos tjut avfifiotiOtidv tov, Kai £id ru KaXbv (pipaifiov tov, roaov 
 tig ravrrfv, Kadiog Kai tig ca8e aXXi/v irpoawtpaafiivriv irtpiaraotv. 
 
 Me tvxapiarriatv tig to cUpov f) bbr/yia Ttjg ApriXXitpiag Kai rutv Mt)xaviKwv dirb rovg xiXtapxovr Sep 
 I\ Bond Kai 2firj9, kuI e'x<o oX^y t>)v tvxapiaTijaiv dirb to tpipatfiov tov yeviKov viraamarov, tov May. 
 Srparjjyou Bdppcc, (6'c tiq iXafiiidri) kol\ tov ytviKov V^opov rwv KarotKtifidruv,Tov xtXtupxou AavXaaij, 
 og rig ekTvTri'idn dirb fiiav fiirdXXav iv rj> fitralv Ttjg fidxvt ravrrig. O Odvarog tov AiiatfiariKov tovtov 
 iptpti fafiiav ficydXtjv npog Tr)V SoiiXtvaiv Ttjg A. M. xal fidXitrret irpoc ifie Kara ti)v ariyfiffv Tavrrfv. 
 tZtfiai vpbg rovTOig iroXXa xpiw<rTr)g tig t))v avfijioliQuav tov Avri-)(iXidp-)(0v Abpi 4>ir^poij SoftfitpatT, 
 og rig tXafiwdt] fiapiuig, Kai rdv dZuofiaTiKwv r»jc npwrrjg fiov ra'^twc, o'irivig liwiftpov us-ep ro $iov clg 
 ti)v fidxvv TavTTfv. O TifiiuiTarog AvTt)(t.Xiap)(og Sep A. FopcW, 6'c nc dnidavtv drb rdg Xa/3wuar<'ac 
 rov, 7)tov evag d^itOfiariKog a'^idXoyoc, cat >; A. M. (t)ftwvrat fitydXug tig t>)v SovXtvcriv tov dirb tov 
 Qdvarov tov OtyfiKidXov tovtov. 
 
 O Srpar»;yoc Kpoufc 6 tig tijv covXtvaiv Trig Na<r<ro/3iae fit tvxap'"rr)Otv HiKptog fit to KaXov <piptrifi6v- 
 rov, Kudivg irpoairi Kai b Srparijydg Tplir, b b^ijywv fiiav airtipav tov 'utkikov tov fiapiog, Kai b Srpar. 
 Bavort, b bSijyuiv fiiav airtipav tov Trt'£iKov tov BaaiXiiog t&v Ka'rw-Xwpwv. 
 
 O Srpar. Ilorfoc rov Bopyow, 6 Srpar. Bap: BikivTiog, b Srpar. Mov^Xivy, o Srpar. AXj36ac iraptxi- 
 ptdrjoav tig to SrpaToirtdov Kaff bXr)v T})v fidxi>', Kai fit tfioifirfotv oaov wtptaaortpov tdvvi'idrjaav. O 
 Bap : BiKtvTtog iXafiwdr), aXX' o^i flapiug u>g iXrriiw, Kai b Srpar. UoT^og tov Bopyou 'i\af3tv 'iva Cov- 
 Xiafia tig iva ftipog tov awfiarog tov. 
 
 Ey(!< ijdtXt K&fiu) afiKov rov tavrov fiov, Kadiog Kai tov Srparapxou BXoiaatp, Kai tov UpovaaiKov 
 S.TpartvfiaTog, aviatog Siv dniSt^ov to tiirvxig diroriXtofia rijg \aXtirrjg ravrrfg yfiipag Trpbg rtfv 
 Trpodvfiov Kai iv Kaipoi tu> irpoai'iKovri TrpoaiptpOtiaav fioi jior/Btiav rovg. To Kivrffia tov Srpari/yoo 
 BovXo^ ivavriov rijg 7r\tvpdg tov l-)/dpov tffrddrj 'iva dirb tKtlva birov KartSiKaaav irtpiaaortpov tov ix^pov 
 rt)v Ti>x>)v. Kai aviatog tyw Kai biv ffitXtv yfiiropiaM va Kctuai rtfv kut aiirov irpoafloXrfv, ijrig irri^tpt 
 ro riXtiov diroriXtafia, to Kivrfjia tov 2rpar»yyoD tovtov ijtiiXtv dvayKaar) tov ix^pbv rd rpa/3ij(9>7> 
 av Kard ro^jji' &iv ijOtXtv tvoSodutaiv al irpoafioXai rov, Kai ijDtXt rov tfiirobiat) va Trpox">pvar], dviaujg 
 Kara cvarvx'av iidtXtv tvloKifii]ai>>ai. 
 
 Ma(i) fit ro H OtjxJHKiov ypdfifia rovro, Trifiirio Kai £vo> Atrovg, rovg biroiovg tiri\pav rd' <zpaTtvfiardfiov 
 £»C rrjv pdxvv ravrrfv, Kill rove biroiovg b Mayyttipoc Tltpaij diXti Xdfirj r>)v rifirfv vd rovg i/irofldXXr) tig 
 
SPECIMEN OF THE ROMAIC LANGUAGE. 393 
 
 rove iro^ac tov B. A. Y. Xafij3dv<i> rqv tvKatpiav Taiirtjv c"<d vd tov avorriou) irpdg rr\v vnepaairiaiv njs E. 
 crag, nal iv raisry rijv Ttfitjv yd rijc tfyiat. 
 
 (tTtoytypa^ftivog) OYEAAINrTON. 
 
 IIP02GHKH. A^' ov iypa\pa to vapor, iXaftov rr)v t"i£r)o-iv, on 6 May. 'Erpar. Zip V. Tlovtrofipfj 
 Itboi'tvdrj. odev fiidwvTag aag rijv etc'rjffiv ravrrjv irpi-nti vd ode itpoaditHa, on eXvTrljdrjv it: xapSiag cia, 
 tov Odvarov rov aZuauanKOv tovtov, og ng t\\tv »'/?»; 7rpngtj>fpt) iroWag Xafurpdg icai ulwXoyovg tKCovXti- 
 actg, (.ai ijrov to Kav\r)^a Kai ij KaWovi) tov tcVou tov iirayyiXfiarog. 
 
 IIP029HKH. Ewj row vvv fiiv i/ftiropeaa vd <rvva(,ia nat vd adg ire/jxl/o) rove xar bvopia KaTa\6yovg 
 twv eftvtjKorwv Kai tuv Xafiwptiviuv, dXAa adg irepucXeiu) ha KurdXoyov twv diJao/iariKiiv, oaoi k<povtvdif 
 aav Kai LXufiw9i)onv tig rdg Ivu raiirag lifxipag rijg pdj^Ct fit 'vuivrfv t>)v aKpifiuav, oar\v tipiropovv vol 
 i-)(uoiv 01 Kar bvojxa KaraXoyoi, Kai -^aipui fitydXtog, eweih) i5/i7rop<5 vd adg ttTrii, on 6 XiXt'apxos AeXat" 
 aijg lev awidave, Kai on tlvai iXiriSeg irtpi rijg iiytiag tov. 
 
 (H E^epij, Tljtte.) 
 
 THE END. 
 
 VOL. II. 3 F 
 

 /or?r 
 - / 
 
 THE GETTY CENTER 
 
imfth 
 
 TRAAliy 
 
 V .0 I.