Ij ! C\ 'C / INCLUDING WESTMINSTER AND THE BOROUGH OF SOUTHWARK, WITH THE ^uwmnbmg Suburbs; DESCRIBING EVERY THING WORTHY OF OBSERVATION IN THE Public Buildings, Places of Entertainment, Exhibitions, Commercial and Literary Institutions, fyc. DOWN TO THE PRESENT PERIOD: Forming a complete GUIDE TO THE BRITISH METROPOLIS. By DAVID HUGHSON, L. L. D. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. ilontion : PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW ; Murray, Albemarle-Street ; Clarke, New Bond-Street ; Lindsell, Wigmore-Street ; Chappie, Pall-Mall ; Colnaghi, Cockspur- Street ; Walker, Strand ; Taylor and Hessey, Fleet-Street; J. M. Richardson, Cornhill ; Cowie and Co. Poultry ; Blackwood, Princes-Street, Edinburgh ; Brash and Reid, Glasgow ; and M. Keene, and J. Cumming, Dublin. 1817. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/walksthroughlond02pugh ' , . A WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 183 WALK XII. From Temple Bar along Picket -Street , the Strand ] Somerset House, the Savoy, the Adelphi, Charing Cross, Whitehall to Parliament -Street, Westminsters Bridge, Palace Yard, Ahingdon-Street, Millbank , Tothill-Street, and Westminster. To form adequate ideas of the improvements made between Temple Bar and the neighbourhood adjacent to St. Clement’s Church, according to Alderman Picket’s plan, it would be necessary to have known the spot before they took place. “ A stranger,” it has been observed, which during the times of Popish superstition, was much resorted to, being supposed capable of. curing cuta? neous and other disorder / AthTisTialty W£iarixWav-Ba7i5,Sirea . WALI^S THROUGH LONDON. 187 Facing St Clement’s Lane, and in the middle of the high street, stands the church of St. Clement Danes . — Though the origin of this appellation is involved in some obscurity, it seems certain that a church was founded here eight hundred years ago : however, the present edifice was built in the year 1680, the old church being then greatly decayed, “ Sir Christopher Wren, his Majesty’s Surveyor, freely and generously bestowing his great care and skill towards the contriving and building of it.” The present church is a very handsome structure of the Corinthian order, built entirely of stone : the body is enlightened by two series of windows, the lower plain, the upper embellished, terminating in an attic, with pilasters crowned with vases. The entrance on the south side is by a portico, and the ascent of a few steps, covered with a dome supported by six Ionic columns. On each side the base of the steeple in the west front is a small square tower, with a dome over the stairs to the galleries. The steeple, which was not added till 1719, is carried to a great height in several stages; where it begins to diminish, the Ionic order takes place, and its entablature supports vases. The next stage is of the Corinthian order, and above that stands the Composite, supporting a dome, which is crowned with a smaller, whence rises the ball and a vane. The tower contains eight bellsi'and chimes. The roof of the interior is camerated and supported with neat wood columns of the Corinthian order, plen- tifully enriched with fret-work, but especially the chancel, with cherubim, palm branches, shields, &c. and six pilasters. The arms of England are also in fret- 188 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. work, painted. This church is well wainscotted, and the pillars cased up to the galleries. On the front of the south gallery, the arms of the Dukes of Norfolk and the Earls of Arundel and Salisbury, formerly inhabi- tants of the parish, are carved and painted. The pulpit is of oak, carved and enriched with cherubim, anchors* branches of palm, festoons, fine veneering, &c. The body of the church is uniform and well pewed, and has three wainscot inner door-cases. The altar-piece is carved wainscot of the Tuscan order : the chancel is paved with marble, and the apertures are well placed, exactly corresponding with each other, on the north and south sides. Among the eminent rectors of this church is George Berkeley, L. L. D. who died in 1795, and left ample testimony that he was the amiable son of the illustrious prelate. Bishop Berkeley, to whom Pope attributed “ every virtue under heaven.” Returning through the archway of the new buildings we come to Little Shire-Lane, and into New- Court : the latter contains an Independent Meeting House, which had for its pastors Mr. Daniel Burgess, Mr. Thomas Bradbury, and Mr. Richard Winter, all eminent preachers. Hence crossing Carey-Street, the avenue of Serle-Street leads to Lincoln’ s- Inn Fields. This is allowed to be the largest and most beautiful square in London, if not in Europe. It was formerly called Ficquets-Field and Whetstone Park, being then a dan- gerous place on account of robberies ; though it seems to have been partially covered with buildings in 1580, when Queen Elizabeth issued a proclamation, forbidding the laying of foundations of houses about London. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 189 However, within six years, a contrary mode of pro- ceeding was adopted ; the government revoked its order; and in 1618, a commission from James the First was entrusted to the care of Lord Chancellor Bacon, and other noblemen and gentry for the better disposal of these grounds. The commission alleged, “ That more public works near and about the city of London had been undertaken in the sixteen years of that reign than in ages heretofore ; that LincolnVInn Fields was much planted round with dwellings and lodgings of noblemen and gentlemen of quality, but at the same time was so deformed by cottages, mean buildings, and encroachments on the fields, that the Commissioners were directed to reform them, according to the plan of Inigo Jones, recited in the Commission, and accordingly drawn up by way of map, fkc.” Thus authorized, it was the intention of this eminent archi- tect to have built all in the same style ; but the taste of the projectors not according with his great genius and abilities, the work was unaccomplished. A specimen of the whole, however, is exhibited in the centre house on the west side, formerly inhabited by the Earls of Lindsey, and their descendants the Dukes of Ancaster, but now divided into two dwellings, possessing that simple grandeur for which the designs of Inigo Jones have been so much celebrated. The four sides of the vast square were thus named : the north, Newman’s Row ; the west. Arch Row ; the south, Portugal Row ; and the east, Lincoln’s-Inn Wall. But since the great families have deserted the square, some of their houses have been divided. The great one at the corner near Queen -Street was called Powis 190 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. House , having- been built for the Marquis of Powis in 1686. It was the residence of Sir Nathan Wright, and that eminent statesman. Lord Chancellor Somers ; after his decease it was inhabited by Thomas Pelham Holies, Duke of Newcastle, and is usually called Newcastle House. On this side were also the town houses of Sir Fletcher Norton, the Speaker of the House of Commons, the Sardinian Ambassador, &c. On the north side the houses of John Soane, Esq. and others, form a good row of buildings in varied archi- tecture. The south side has been distinguished by the residence of eminent legal characters. Lord Chan- cellors Camden, Loughborough and Erskine ; Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, Sir Henry Gould, Serjeant Adair, &c. No. 13, the house of Mr. Soane, the architect, has within these few years been almost rebuilt with a new projecting front, and in the small court before it, is to be seen the curious Roman Altar represented in the following wood cut. — The Altar, from the basso relievos sculptured on it, may be supposed to have been dedi- cated to Bacchus. / WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 191 A gateway on the west side, of a singular dirty and mean appearance, leads to Duke-Street, in which is the entrance to the Sardinian Chapel, a Roman Catholic place of worship, which suffered greatly in the dis- graceful riots of 1780. Before we quit Lincoln’s-Inn Fields it is necessary to observe, that on the south side stands the newly-erected Surgeon’s Hall , or Royal Col- lege and Theatre, one of the most elegant structures in the metropolis. It is of the Ionic order, with suitable embellishments. Lincoln* s-Inn Fields was the last stage on which was closed the patriotic lives of Lord William Russel and Algernon Sydney. The virtuous Russel lost his head in the middle of the square on the 21st of July 1683. Sydney was executed the latter end of the same year. The eastern side of this square is now graced with the prospect of the New Chancery, in Lincoln’s- 192 WALKS THROUGH LONDON* Inn, a stuccoed building in the modem Gothic taste, with pointed windows, and an embattled roof. Portugal-Street: is famous for having a Dramatic Theatre, first built on the site of a tennis-court, and opened by Sir William D’Avenant. It has for some years been occupied by Spode’s china and earthen warehouse. It was here that Macklin had the misfortune to kill Mr. Hannam on the stage, in the year 1735. Opposite is a very convenient and handsome house for the poor of St. Clement’s parish, and adjoining the burial-ground purchased by the inhabitants in 1638. Clare Market is erected on what was called St^ Clement’ s-Inn Fields. Bear -Yard is probably what was called Rein-Deer Yard ; and Gibbon’s Bowling-Alley, at the coming out of Lincoln’s-Inn-Fields towards Portugal-Street, was covered by the first theatre erected by Sir William D’Avenant. Its remains are now a carpenter’s shop, slaughter-houses, &c. Here, during Sir Robert Walpole’s administration* John Henley, A. M. or M. A. a disappointed demagogue, vented his factious ebullitions in a room which he called The Oratory. Possessing no mean abilities, he was also obnoxious to government by the publication of the Hyp Doctor, and other papers on the politics of the times. In 1642, Charles the First granted a licence to Ger- vase Hollis, Esq. to erect fifteen houses, a chapel, and several streets, from thirty to forty feet wide. These streets still retain the names and titles of their founder iu Clare-Street, Denzell- Street, Holles-Street, &c. Clements Lane , a filthy inconvenient avenue, was once the residence of Sir John Trevor, cousin to Lord Cham, WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 193 cellor Jefferies. He rose to be Solicitor-General, twice Master of the Rolls, a Commissioner of the Great Seal, and twice Speaker of the House of Commons. He had the honest courage to caution James the Second against his arbitrary conduct, and his first cousin Jefferies, against his violence. Returning to Picket-Street, the first object of atten- tion is the Vestry Room of St. Clement’s, in which is placed the altar-piece, painted by Kent, that occasioned considerable agitation in 1725, in consequence of an order from Bishop Gibson for its removal from the Church, where it had been put up at a considerable expence. This removal was on the supposition that the painting contained the portraits of the Pretender’s wife and children. After having been first removed, it was for many years an ornament to the coffee-room of the Crown and Anchor tavern, and from thence trans- ferred back to the old vestry at the back of the church, where it remained till taken to the new one after the year 1803. From the church westward, the avenues form three streets ; one of these, Wych-Street, contains IVistu Inn, an Inn of Chancery, and the only one that remains, belonging to the Middle Temple. This Society many years since removed from Seacoal-Lane, near Snow Hill, to be nearer to the other Inns of Court and Chancery. New Inn boasts the honour of having educated the great Sir Thomas More, who studied here previous to his entering himself of Lincoln’s Inn. The west end of Wych-Street was formerly orna- mented by Drury House , built by Sir William Drury, an able commander in the Irish wars, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In the next century it was possessed s 194 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. by the heroic Lord Craven, who rebuilt it. It was lately a large brick pile, concealed by other buildings, and a public house, the sign of the Queen of Bohemia’s Head, for whom Lord Craven fought, and to whom it is said he was afterwards privately married. When the house was taken down a few years since, the ground was pur- chased by the late Mr. Philip Astley, of the Amphi- theatre, Westminster Bridge, who built what he called The Olympic Pavilion , as a house of public exhibition in horsemanship and droll. Craven Buildings , the entrance to which is from Drury-Lane, till lately exhibited a good portrait, in fresco, of Lord Craven in armour, with a truncheon in his hand, and mounted on his white horse; and on each side an Earl’s and a Baron’s coronet, and the letters W. C. Adjoining to Wych-Street is Holy well- Street, from the well of that name. It is a narrow avenue of old ill-formed houses, but contains Lyon’s Inn, a place of considerable antiquity, but now much neglected. The Hall, a handsome structure, is appropriated to purposes different from the original intention of accommodating law students. The third line of streets westward of St. Clement’s is the Strand, where, between Essex-Street and Mil- ford-Lane, was anciently a chapel, the founder un- known, dedicated to the Holy Ghost. Arundel- Street stands on the ground formerly occu- pied by the house and gardens of the Bishops of Bath and Wells, called also Hampton-Place. The episcopal house being at length purchased by the Earl of Arun- del, it was called Arundel-House. It afterwards came into possession of the Dukes of Norfolk, when the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 195 stablings were towards the Strand, and the large garden towards the Thames. Here the Arundelian marbles were kept by Henry Howard, Earl of Arundel. Norfolk House was pulled down in the seventeenth century; but the family- name and titles are retained in Howard, Norfolk, Arundel, and Surrey-Streets. Westward of these streets was anciently the parish Church of St. Ursula of the Strand, though most commonly called that of St. Mary without Temple Bar. In 1549 this church, with Strand Inn and Bridge, and the lane under it, the palaces of the various bishops, and all the adjoin- ing tenements, were levelled to the ground, by order of the Protector Somerset, uncle to Edward the Sixth. The Bishop of Chester’s mansion had been built upon land granted so far back as 1257. Near it was Chester Inn, an ancient House of Chancery, belonging to the Middle Temple; and opposite the Bishop of Coventry’s Inn, in the High-Street, stood a stone cross, “ whereof,” says Stow, “ I read that in the year 1294, and divers other times, the justices itinerant sat without London.” A maypole was afterwards placed in the room of this cross by a man named John Clarges, a smith, whose daughter Anne had been so fortunate as to marry General George Monk, Duke of Albemarle, in the reign of Charles the Second. This may-pole was one hundred feet high, but being decayed. Sir Isaac Newton obtained it of the parish, and had it transferred to Wanstead, in Essex, for the purpose of supporting the largest telescope in being at that period.|Before the may-pole was removed it was adorned with streamers, flags, garlands of flowers, &c. on public occasions. On this spot now stands the parish church of St. Mary -le-Str and, finished about 1723 . It is a very superb, though not a very extensive 196 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. edifice ; massy, without the appearance of being heavy, and formed to stand for ages. The western entrance is by a flight of steps cut in the sweep of a circle, and leading to a circular portico of Ionic columns, covered with a dome, and crowned by an elegant vase. The columns are continued along the body of the church, with pilasters of the same order at the corners ; and at the intercolumniations are niches handsomely orna- mented. Over the dome is a pediment supported by Corinthian columns, which are also continued round the body of the structure, over those of the Ionic order beneath ; between which are the windows placed over the niches. These columns, supported on pedestals, have pilasters behind, with arches sprung from them, and the windows have angular and circular pediments alternately. A handsome balustrade is carried round the top, and its summit is adorned with vases. The steeple is light though solid, and ornamented with composite columns and capitals. At the digging the foundation for the present church, the virgin earth was discovered at the depth of nineteen feet; a proof that the ground in this neighbourhood originally was not much higher than the Thames. This village was therefore truly denominated the Strand from its situation on the bank of the river. This church will be memorable, for some time at least, in consequence of a very serious accident which happened here on the proclamation of the peace of Amiens in 1802. Just as the heralds came abreast of this place, one of the urns upon the stone railing round the roof of the church, and on which a man on the out- side happened to be leaning, gave way. All the windows of the adjacent houses being crouded, as well as the WALKS til HOUGH LONDON. 197 frOof of the church, several of the spectators saw the stone in the commencement of its fall, and raised a loud cry. Several persons ran from their situations, but whether into or out of the danger, they did not know. Three young men were crushed in its fall ; one was struck on the head and killed on the spot ; another was so much wounded, that he died on his way to the hospital; and a third died two days after. A young woman was also taken away apparently much injured, and several others were hurt. The urn, which weighed about two hundred weight, struck the cornice of the church in its descent, and carried part of it away. An officer of the church went up to ascertain the man whose hand was upon the urn when it tumbled over; he had fallen back and fainted upon its giving way. He was taken into custody, but no blame was found imputable to him. The urn stood upon a socket ; but instead of being secured by a strong iron spike running up the centre, there was nothing but a wooden one, which being entirely decayed, consequently broke off with the pressure of the man’s hand, as he was in the act of leaning forward. The stone broke a large flag to pieces in the area below, and sunk nearly a foot into the ground. Somerset-Place. On this site formerly stood the ex- tensive palace of Somerset-House , built about the year 1549, by Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, uncle to Edward the Sixth, and Protector of England, who, be- sides demolishing St. Mary’s Church, and several epis- copal mansions, sacrificed part of the conventual church of St. John of Jerusalem, Clerkenwell the tower and cloisters on the north side of St. Paul’s, with the charnel s 2 198 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. houses and adjoining chapel, to furnish materials for the new structure ; even the beautiful pile of Westminster Abbey was only rescued from the sacrilegious dilapida- tions, by immense contributions. The architect of this fabric is supposed to have been John of Padua, the first who introduced regular architecture into these king- doms ; and his allowance was the grant of a fee of two shillings per diem. Old Somerset House was one of the earliest specimens of the Italian style in this country, and displayed a mixture of barbarism and beauty. Somerset House had devolved to the crown by the Pro- tector’s attainder; and Queen Elizabeth frequently re- sided here, and gave the use of it to her cousin Lord Hunsdon. Here also Anne of Denmark, Queen of James the First, kept her court, when it was called Denmark House ; and as Charles the Second, for obvious reasons, did not choose that his Queen should observe his conduct towards certain ladies at Whitehall, he lodged her, during some part of his reign, in this palace. Here she remained some time after his decease, till she returned to Lisbon. After her departure, Somerset House was often appointed for the reception of ambassadors; the last who stayed here any considerable time, were the Venetian residents, who made their public entry into London in 1763. When the old part of the mansion was opened, at the desire of Sir William Chambers, the architect of the new building, and when the foyal bed-chamber and the keeper’s drawing-room were exposed to view, a number of persons entered with the surveyor. The first of the apartments, the long gallery, was lined with oak in small pannels ; the heights of their mouldings had been touched with gold ; it had an oaken floor, and WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 199 a stuccoed ceiling; some of the sconces remained against the sides, with part of the chains, &c. In this gallery, which had been used as a ball-room, various articles were thrown together in the utmost confusion, the pro- ductions of different periods. In one part were the vestiges of a throne and canopy of state ; in another, curtains for the audience chamber, which had once been crimson velvet, fringed with gold. Stools, couches, fire-dogs, were also broken and scattered about in a state of derangement, evidently exhibiting the insta- bility of all earthly things. Somerset House, by an act passed in the second year of the present King, was settled upon the Queen for life, but has, in the present reign, been exchanged for Buckingham House. This house was originally built in a style of archi- tecture composed of the Grecian and the Gothic ; but, in 1775, the whole of the structure was demolished, in consequence of an act of parliament, and the present extensive edifice, from a design of Sir William Cham- bers, has been erected for the accommodation of all the public offices — those of the Treasury, the Secretary of State, the Admiralty, the War, and the Excise, excepted. The front of this edifice next to the Strand, consists of a rustic basement, supporting a range of columns in the Corinthian order, crowned in the centre with an attic story, and adorned at the extremities with a bal- lustrade. The grand entrance, by three lofty arches, opens to a spacious and elegant vestibule, ornamented with Doric columns. The southern front, towards the Thames, is erected on a terrace fifty-three feet wide ; and the building. 900 WALKS THROUGH LONDOtf. when finished, will extend about 1,100 feet. The terrace is supported on a rustic basement, erected upon an arcade, consisting of thirty-two arches, each twelve feet wide and twenty-four high. The grand central arch is intended for the reception of the royal barges. The length of this arcade is relieved by projections, orna- mented by rusticated Ionic columns ; and the effect of the whole of the terrace, viewed from the water, is very noble. The public are excluded from this terrace ; but it would form one of the most delightful promenades in the world, as it commands a view of a very beautiful part of the river, with Blackfriars, Waterloo, and West- minster bridges. In the court of this structure is a statue of the present king, and at his feet is the figure of the river Thames, pouring wealth and plenty from a cornucopia. The rooms of the Royal Society, the Antiquarian Society, and the Royal Academy, occupy a part of the main building towards the Strand. The entrance to these rooms is by the vestibule. Over the door of the Royal and Antiquarian Societies is the bust of Sir Isaac Newton ; and over that of the Royal Academy is the bust of Michael Angelo Buonarotti. Somerset Place also contains the following public offices : The Auditor of Imprests, Clerk of the Estreats, Duchy Courts of Lancaster and Cornwall, Hackney Coach, Hawkers and Pedlars, Horse Duty, Lord Trea- surer's, Remembrancer's, Lottery, Navy, Navy Pay, Pipe and Comptroller of the Pipe, Salt, Sick and Hurt, Sig- net, Stage-coaeh Duty, Stamp, Surveyor of Crown Lands, Tax, Victualling, and Wine Licence. The King's barge-houses are likewise comprehended WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 201 in this building, with a dwelling for the barge-master ; besides houses for the Treasurer, the Paymaster, and six Commissioners of the Navy ; three Commissioners of Victualling-Office, and their Secretary ; one Commis- sioner of the Stamps, and one of the Sick and Hurt ; with commodious apartments in each for a Secretary, Porter, &c. Among the works of art contained in this building, the Hercules, at the foot of the stair-case, has been a constant object of admiration. The library of the Royal Academy here, is ornamented with a painted ceiling by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Cipriani. The centre represents the Theory of the Arts, formed as an elegant and majestic female, seated in the clouds, looking to- wards the heavens, holding in one hand a compass, and in the other a label, inscribed, “ Theory is the know- ledge of what is truly Nature.” The four compart- ments are expressive of Nature, History, Allegory and Fable. The ceiling of the Council Room is mostly painted by West; the centre picture represents the Graces unveiling Nature, surrounded by four pictures of the Elements, represented by female figures, attended by Genii. The large oval pictures above, are by An- gelica Kauffman, representing Invention, Composition, Design and Colouring. In the angles in the centre are four coloured medallions, representing Apelles, Phidias, Apollodorus and Archimedes. Eight smaller medallions, supported by lions round the great circle, represent, in chiaro oscuro, Palladio, Bernini, Michael Angelo, Fiamingo, Raphael, Dominichini, Titian and Rubens. Nearly opposite Somerset House, and passing the new church, is Little Drury-Lane, a narrow avenue. 202 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. which was extremely dirty till the end towards the Strand was, from a horse and cart road, converted into a paved court. This formerly led to a road by the side of Craven House and other noble mansions, to St. Giles’s in the Fields, and to the country. This road was bounded by hedges, and partly adorned with trees. Where Catharine-Street now stands, a stream of water ran to the Thames; over this, in the Strand, was a bridge called Strand Bridge. Catharine-Street leads to Bridges-Street, containing the Theatre Royal, called Drury-Lane Theatre. The elegant new building, which was opened here in 1794, surmounted by a stone balustrade, and a colossal figure of Apollo, was burnt down in the night of February 24, 1809. It was built by Mr. Henry Holland upon an immense and magni- ficent plan, and was capable of holding nearly 4000 persons. The stage was one hundred and five feet in length, seventy-five feet wide, and forty-five feet be- tween the stage doors. The present edifice, which is, in a measure, substantial and superb, was rebuilt in 1811, on the ruins of its predecessor, by Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. aided by a public-spirited committee, assisted by their chairman, the late Samuel Whitbread, Esq. The principal entrance to this theatre is in Brydges-Street, through a spacious hall, leading to the pit and boxes. This hall is supported by five Doric columns; and three large doors lead from this hall into the house, and into a rotunda of great beauty. There are passages to the great stairs on each side of the rotunda, which are grand and spacious : over these are ornamented ceilings, with a turret-light. The body of the theatre presents nearly three-fourths of a circle from the stage; and this circular appearance is partly WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 203 an optical delusion. This theatre is indebted to Colonel Congreve for the means of securing it effectually from fire ; and its general appearance is brilliant, without being gaudy, and elegant without affectation. In this superb theatre, a great and laudable attention has been paid to the scenery, with respect to those historical subjects which occur in many of Sakespeare’s plays. However, with respect to the exterior of Drury- Lane Theatre, there is more of the heavy and sombre than was necessary ; as the long brick wall running from Brydges-Street into Drury-Lane gives the building rather the appearance of a prison than a place of public amusement. Among the more recent alterations in the interior, the pit has not only been raised, but the elevation is now at a greater angle than that of any other theatre in the metropolis : every person, since then, has seen the whole stage, without impediment from those before them. Three feet were also taken from the stage and thrown into the orchestra ; this of course brought the band nearer the leader. The two ends taken from the orchestra have been appropriated for visitors at box prices; and, though some private boxes were taken away, two new ones were made for the Princess Char- lotte and the Prince Cobourg, and the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester ; and both the pit and the boxes considerably elevated. The Royal boxes are on the opposite sides of the house near the stage. The back seats on the dress circle are removed, which are now reduced to three rows of chairs. Returning to the Strand, on the spot where Doiley's Warehouse now stands, was Wimbledon House, a large mansion, built by Sir Edward Cecil, third son of 204 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Thomas, Earl of Exeter. Sir Edward was much at- tached to military pursuits ; and Stow, in his annals, says, that this house was burned quite down in Novem- ber, 1628; and that the day before his lordship had the misfortune also of having his house at Wimbledon, in Surrey, blown up with gunpowder. The ruins at the back of Doiley's, formerly seen, were probably the remains of the house destroyed by fire. Near this spot stands the Lyceum Theatre , which has been rebuilt, and was opened in June, 1816. It is now called The English Opera House , and belongs to Mr. Arnold, who has spared no pains in rendering it con- venient and comfortable. The diameter is thirty-five feet; and the distance from the front boxes to the orchestra is only thirty feet ; so that the actors may be seen, as well as heard, from all parts of the house. The pit is raised by an unusual elevation on an inclined plane, and has no steps, but a passage in the middle. The building is upon a smaller scale than the winter theatres ; and the form of the interior is that of a lyre. The decorations of the boxes and proscenium are aft indicative of its being appropriated to music. The principal box entrance is from the Strand ; the other entrances are from Exeter Place and Exeter- Street. This large pile of building was erected in the short space of six or seven months, and, though not very conspicuous, is an ornament to the metropolis. Exeter House. — This, originally the parsonage-house of St. Clement Danes, falling to the crown, remained as its property till Queen Elizabeth granted it to Sir William Cecil, Lord Treasurer, who enlarged and re- built it; after which it was called Cecil House and Burleigh House . Lord Burleigh died here, in 1598 ; WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 205 being inhabited by his son Thomas, it was called Exeter House. After the Fire of London, it was occu- pied by the Doctors of Civil Law, till 1672. The lower part, forming Exeter Change, has long been filled with shops of various descriptions, whilst the upper part, occupied by a menagerie of wild beasts, birds, and reptiles. The Savoy, originally the site of a house inhabited by Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, a powerful baron, nearly opposite, takes its name from Peter, Earl of Savoy, who built a large house here in 1245, and gave it to the fraternity of Mountjoy, of whom Queen Eleanor, wife of Henry the Third, purchased it for her son, John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. When it came into the hands of Henry the Seventh, he founded a large hospi- tal here, and called it that of St. John Baptist. The Savoy has been reduced to ashes several times, particularly by Wat Tyler and Jack Cade; and more than once by accident The chapel that still remains is properly the Chapel of St. John Baptist, and is of great antiquity, and contains several ancient monu- ments. It was repaired in 1721, wholly at the charge of George the First, who also enclosed the burial ground with a strong brick wall. T 206 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Mr. Malcolm observes — “ Few places in London have undergone a more complete alteration and ruin than the Savoy Hospital. According to the plates published by the Society of Antiquaries, in 1750, it was a most respectable and excellent building, erected on the south side of the Strand, and literally in the Thames. This front contained several projections, and two rows of angular-mullioned windows. Northward of this was the Friary , a court formed by the walls of the body of the hospital part ; the ground plan was in the shape of the cross : this had more ornaments than the south front; with large pointed windows and em- battled parapets, lozenged with flints.” “ At the west end of the bu ildings is the Guard-House , with its gateway, secured by a strong buttress, and embellished with Henry the Seventh's arms, and the badges of the rose and portcullis ; and above these are WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 207 two windows projecting into a semi-sexagon.” This part is still the entrance to the military prison. The Savoy was the honourable residence of John, King of France, as a prisoner, after the battle of Poic- tiers. After visiting his brother, in 1363, he returned, and died in confinement the April following. The ap- pearance of this once-celebrated spot, in September, 1816, justified the following observations: “ The Savoy is every day the rendezvous for curious persons, who appear anxious to inspect the ancient walls of the once royal palace. Within the last week, or ten days, those vestiges of grandeur have been partly thrown down. The masses now remaining, covered withdvy and moss, present an object worthy the in- spection of the antiquary. The large north window, with Norman Gothic frame work, is worthy a place in the artist’s sketch-book ; but any pleasure to be derived from committing it to the tablet will soon be lost for ever, because the last frail memorial must shortly lie level on the earth. The workmen employed to throw down these lofty enclosures have found their task rather arduous. Time, which destroys the most durable monuments of human ingenuity, has, in this instance, increased the strength and solidity originally given to the principal part of the fabric. The walls, built of brick, stone, and flint, cemented by mortar, seem to have formed, by long standing, one hard mass, almost immoveable. In several parts the thickness is eight or ten feet. The men first applied that great mechanical power the screw jack, but found their efforts vain ; they then dug with pickaxes holes at the bottom; and, having weakened the foundation, as it were, applied iron bars across the upper part of the Gothic windows $ 208 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. ropes were fastened to these iron bars, and the strength of many hands made the ruins fall inward : as the exterior of the walls were supported by strong buttres- ses, some hundreds of men would have been necessary to pull down the pile, so that it might fall outward. — Some of the stone is peculiarly white and soft ; and, according to tradition, it was brought, in the reign of Queen Mary I. from Normandy, for the express purpose of repairing the Palace of the Savoy, or, as it was then called, the Savoy Hospital, built by her ancestor, Henry the Seventh. The quality of the stone was recently discovered by a few of those industrious individuals, who are constantly in search of whatever may be turned to profit and advantage. Every day one or two of the latter description may be seen sitting on the ruins and cutting the stone with knives into squares, which they sell as a proper material to clean hearth- stones and the steps before doors. We have not been able to discover that any object containing inscription, or legible mark of antiquity, has yet been found. As the building decayed, the ground-floor, or lower apart- ments, were filled up with ruins. A fire also, about the year 1777, threw down a great portion of the structure, so that the present level leaves fifteen or twenty feet of the walls under ground: The vaults and subterraneous passage under the hospital are consequently covered over ; and, as it is intended to make a road over the ruins, it is not probable those vaults will be explored. In parts where wells had been dug, the bricks and rubbish appear to have been re- moved and piled up again on each side, to leave the same open, but the depth now to be seen does not exceed ten feet. They have entirely removed the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 209 German Chapel, which stood next Somerset House, and pulled down the red brick house that stood in the Savoy square, and was used for barracks. The en- trance to the Strand or Waterloo Bridge will be spacious, and the houses in the Strand now only stop the opening. We understand they are shortly to come down. Upon the bridge the masons have got up a considerable part of the balustrade, and the filling in with clay proceeds rapidly. On the Surrey side, the grand support of the intended road-way, consisting of broad brick walls, and stone-work, is quite finished. From the extremity of the brick-work a line of road is continued by raised ground, which extends to the vegetable gardens north of Lambeth Marsh. These public works, on the whole, proceed with spirit ; and, in the course of a few months, the face of the landed property contiguous to the bridge-work will assume a totally new appearance.” The Strand Bridge, of which Mr. Rennie is the ar- chitect, though one of the longest stone bridges in Europe, is rather flat. It consists of nine elliptical arches of one hundred and twenty feet span, on eight piers, twenty feet wide : the width, within the para- pets, is forty-two feet; the foot-paths being seven feet each, and the road-way twenty-eight feet ; and is em- bellished with short Doric columns. Besides the in- tended alteration of the pavement in the Strand, and other improvements for convenient access to the bridge, an embankment is to be made to the east of it, at least three feet above the high-water mark, and to extend to the distance of thirty feet into the river. — This bridge has been some time passable for foot passengers, who at present pay three-pence each : all the piers are of t 2 ^10 WALKS THROUGH LONDON* course completed, and the rest of the works are pro- ceeding with great activity. In order also that a com- modious access to this bridge may be secured on the Surrey side, a road is to lead from it to the other side of Westminster Bridge ; to the Stones End, in Black- man-Street in the Borough, by the Obelisk in St. George’s Fields ; besides others continuing the way across Black Friars Road, towards that of West- minster. Denmark Court , in the Strand, contains a handsome Jewish synagogue, as numbers of these people, mostly clothes salesmen, reside near Covent Garden and the Strand. Beaufort Buildings rose on the exten- sive site of Worcester House; here lived the great Earl of Clarendon, paying for this house the extrava- gant rent of 500/. per annum. Its latest possessor, the Duke of Beaufort, finding it going to decay, took it down, and formed Beaufort Buildings and the ave- nues leading to them, out of its ruins. Southampton- Street is so called in compliment to Lady Rachel, the excellent consort of William Lord Russel, and at present forms a spacious avenue from the Strand to Convent Garden, commonly called Covent Garden. The large square called Covent Gar- den Market, contains three acres of ground, and is the best in England for herbs, fruit, and flowers. Had the magnificent piazza on the north side, as designed by Inigo Jones, been carried all round, this would have been one of the finest squares in Europe. The Church of St. Paul, Covent Garden, was erected in the year 1640, as a chapel of ease to St. Martins-in- the-Fields, at the expence of Francis, Earl of Bedford, for the accommodation of his tenants. The front ex^ Dubksfied hyWStzrtceNeivDorui Street Dec r jj8ii 'S' JPuMisfud by W. ' &aribe2favJtondrSires6 Janaj&j.- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. an liibits a plain but noble portico of the Tuscan order ; the columns are massy, and the intercolumniation wide; the roof is flat, and though of great extent, is supported by the walls alone, without pillars. In September 1795, a fire, caused by the neglect of the plumbers then at work, occasioned the whole of the interior to be burnt down. The walls having received but little damage, the whole edifice was restored, without any material deviation from the original plan. Before this church, the hustings for the election of parliamentary representatives for Westminster, are usually erected. Covent Garden Theatre. The present edifice was opened in September 1809, within twelve months of the time when the former building, rebuilt in 1787,- Avas burnt down. Its magnificent front, and the sculp- ture in Bow-Street, has been much and justly admired; and no cdst has been spared to render the interior cor- respondent in taste and grandeur. In the centre of this front three Greek poets are sitting ; the two looking towards the portico are Aristophanes and Menander ; the former representing the old comedy, the latter the new. Before them Thalia presents herself with her crook and comic mask. She is followed by Polyhymnia playing on the greater lyre, and Euterpe on the less ; Glio with the long pipes, and Terpsichore, the muse of action, or pantomime. These are succeeded by three nymphs, crowned with the leaves of the fir-pine, and wearing short tunics, representing the hours or seasons governing and attending the winged horse Pegasus.— The third sitting figure in the centre, looking from the portico, is Aeschylus, the father of tragedy. He holds a scroll open upon his kn.ee, and his attention is fix&t on Wisdom or Minerva, with her helmet and shield. 212 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. seated opposite the poet. Between iEschylus and Mi- nerva, Bacchus stands leaning on his fawn. Behind Minerva stands Melpomene or Tragedy, holding a sword and a mask, followed by two Furies with snakes and torches, pursuing Orestes, stretching his hands to sup- plicate Apollo for protection. Apollo is represented in the quadriga, or four-horsed chariot of the sun. The Modern Drama. In the centre, looking from the portico, Shakespeare is sitting ; the comic and tragic masks, with the lyre, are about his seat ; his right hand is raised calling up Caliban, laden with wood ; next, Ferdinand sheathing his sword ; then Miranda en- treating Prospero in behalf of her lover. These cha- racters in the Tempest are led on by Ariel above, play- ing on a lyre ; and this part of the procession is ter- minated by Hecate, the three-formed goddess, in her car, drawn by oxen descending. She is attended by Lady Macbeth, with the daggers in her hands, followed by Macbeth, turning in horror from the body of Duncan behind him. In the centre, looking towards the portico, is Milton, seated and contemplating Urania, opposite to him above ; at his feet is Sampson Agonistes chained. The remaining figures represent, the masque of Comus ; the two brothers driving out three Bacchanals, with their staggering leader. The enchanted Lady is seated in the chair, and the series is ended by two tygers, representing the transformation of Cornus’s devotees. Two niches in the wings are occupied by statues repre- senting Tragedy and Comedy ; the former holding the tragic mask and dagger ; the latter the shepherd’s crook or pedum. Had all these figures been more pro- minent, the effect would have been more satisfactory to the general spectator; but the better informed WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 213 will remember that they are in basso, not in alto re- lievo. Returning to the Strand, nearly opposite Sotithamp- ton-Street, is Cecil-Street, the site of Salisbury House, built by Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, who caused the high street in the Strand to be paved and levelled before his house for the convenience of passen- gers. A part of this house, over the long gallery, was eventually afterwards converted into an Exchange, and called The Middle Exchange ; but being deserted, the whole went to decay. After it was taken down, Cecil- Street rose upon its ruins. The liberty of the Duchy of Lancaster ends at the east end of this street. Durham-House was the town residence of Anthony De Bee, the Bishop of that see, in the reign of Edward the First, and was called Durham-Place in the Strand, by him and his successors; where, in 1540, a magni- ficent fete was given by the challengers of England against several lords of France, Holland, Scotland, and Spain. However, in the issue, both the challengers and defendants were English ; and, after the gallant sports of each day at Westminster, both parties rode to Durham-House, and feasted the King and Queen Ann of Cleves, with her ladies. This palace had pre- viously been consigned over to Henry the Eighth, in | exchange for some equivalent; and it was afterwards I granted, by Edward the Sixth, to his sister Elizabeth, jas her residence for life: Mary, however, who pro- bably thought the gift sacrilegious, granted it again in reversion to the Bishops of Durham. Queen Elizabeth afterwards gave the use of this house to the great Sir Walter Raleigh. In the reign of Charles the First, coming into the possession of the Earl of Pembroke, 214 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. bis son caused the whole to be taken down, and con- verted into tenements and avenues, as it continued, till totally demolished, to make room for the Adelphi. ; Over the stables of this house, which probably dis- figured the Strand, King James, in 1608, built an Ex- change, which, though opened by the king and queen, and called Britain’s Burse , dwindled into frivolity and decay. In this structure, when an Exchange, sat, in the character of a milliner, the reduced Duchess of Tyrconnel, wife to Richard Talbot, Lord Deputy of Ireland, a bigotted Papist, under James the Second : till she was discovered, and otherwise provided for, she j sat here in a white mask and a white dress; and, as Mr. Pennant says, was known by the name of the White Milliner. The building of the Adelphi was a project of great magnitude, as, when purchased by Messrs. Adams, it was a heap of ruins; but the stately streets, the extreme depth of the foundations, the massy piers of brick-work, and the spacious subterranean vaults and arcades which they erected upon it, excited the wonder of the ignorant, and the applause of the skilful ; whilst the regularity of the whole superstructure, and the ele- gance and novelty of the decorations, equally delighted all descriptions of people. The front of the Adelphi, towards the river, is one of the most distinguishing objects between Waterloo and Westminster Bridges. The elevation of the ter- race, lifting the eye above the wharfs and ware- houses on the opposite side of the river, charms it with a prospect of the adjacent country. It is also observa- ble, that in the streets of the Adelphi the brothers have contrived to preserve their respective Christian names. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 215 as well as their family name. In John-Street is the building designed and executed for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce . This building alone is a sufficient indication that the architects were completely sensible of the beauty and grandeur, result-* ing from simplicity of composition and boldness of projection. The pictures and other objects in the in- terior are such as must give natives and foreigners an exalted idea of the taste and genius of the British nation. Returning through Adam-Street to the Strand, we arrive at Bedford-Street , the site of the ancient mansion of the Earls and Dukes of Bedford ; it was “ a large old house, having a great yard before it for the recep- tion of carriages, and a spacious garden, behind which were coach-houses and stables but the house and gardens being demolished, the ground was covered with Tavistock, Southampton, and other streets. On the opposite side of the Strand are avenues to York Buildings, so called from having been the resi- dence of the Archbishops of York, till Archbishop Matthew, in the reign of James the First, exchanged it with the crown for several manors. It was the resi- dence of Lord Chancellors Egerton and Bacon, after which it was granted to George Villiers, Duke of Buck- ingham, who rebuilt it most magnificently. In 1648, the Parliament bestowed it on General Fairfax, whose daughter and heiress marrying the second Duke of Buckingham, the house reverted to its true owner, who resided here several years subsequent to the Restora- tion ; but at length disposed of it, and laid several streets out on the site, which go by his name and titles; “ George -Street, Villiers-Street, Duke-Street, Of Alley, and Buckingham-Street.” 216 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. York Stairs is a most perfect piece of building, and does honour to the name of Inigo Jones, who formed it of such equal and harmonious parts, and embellished it in such a manner, that nothing- can be justly cen- i sured or added. Rock-work, or rustic, can never be better introduced than in buildings by the side of water; and it is a question with some judges whether it ought to be made use of any where else. York Buildings Water-Works are under the super- intendance of a Company, incorporated in the year 1691. Hungerford Market takes its name from a family of Farleigh, in Wiltshire. Sir Edward Hungerford was created Knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles the Second, and had a large mansion here, which he converted into tenements and a market. Over the market-house was a large room, called “ The French Church/’ afterwards the Charity School for St. Martin in the Fields. A bust of Charles the Second, on the north side, was, till neglected, considered as an orna- ment to the market-house. It is understood that a new mart for fish is to be built on the bank of the Thames near this old market, now in disuse. On the other side of the Strand, nearly opposite Hun- gerford- Street, is the parish church of St. Martin in the Fields . — This edifice was rebuilt and consecrated in the year 1726. It is an elegant stone structure. In the west front is an ascent by a very long flight of steps to a very noble portico of Corinthian columns, supporting a pediment, in which is the royal arms in bas relief, and underneath a Latin inscription relating to the founda- tion of the church. The same order is continued round in pilasters ; and in the intercolumniations are two WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 217 series of windows, surrounded with rustic. On each side of the doors, on the sides near the corners, are lofty Corinthian columns ; the roof is concealed by a handsome balustrade; the steeple is stately and elegant, and the tower contains an excellent peal of twelve bells. The interior decorations are very fine; the ceiling is eliptical, " which,” says Mr. Gibbs, “ I find by ex- I perience to be much better for the voice than the semi- circular, though not so beautiful. It is divided into panneis, enriched with fret-work/* Siender Corinthian columns, on high pedestals, rising in the front of the galleries, serve to support both them and the roof, which, on the sides, rests upon them in a very orna- mental arch-work. The east end is richly adorned with fret-work and gilding ; and over the altar is a large Venetian window, with ornamental stained glass. On each side are seats, with glazed windows, for the royal family and their household, whenever they come to church to qualify themselves to hold certain offices. Though the steeple of this church is so contrived as to seem to want support, the building, upon the whole, is composed in a grand style of one order : the portico ' is truly noble, and wants nothing but the advantage of being seen. The interior is remarkably handsome, and the vestry-room contains very fine portraits of ‘ Archbishops Lamplugh and Tennison, Bishop Pearce, Dr. Lancaster, and other dignitaries who were vicars of this church. In Craven-Street is a house, No. 7, remarkable for having been the residence of Dr. Franklin, and at pre- sent the place of meeting for the Society for the Relief of Persons imprisoned for Small Debts, which rose through the well-meant endeavours of the Rev. Dr. u 218 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Dodd, in 1772. Between York House and Charing- Cross stood the Hospital of St. Mary, a cell to the priory of Rouncival, in Navarre, founded in the reign of Henry the Third. After the general suppression, it was given by Edward the Sixth to $ir Thomas Cawar- den, and from whom it came to Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, who built a mansion out of its ruins, and called it Northampton House. The Earl dying here, in 1624, left the edifice to his kinsman, the Earl of Suf- folk ; hence, by marriage of Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, with the daughter of the Earl of Suf- folk, it passed into her family, about the year 1642, and has ever since been distinguished by the name of Nor- thumberland House. Bernard Jansen was the architect. The mansion originally consisted of three sides of a quadrangle, and the principal apartments were in the upper story next the Strand, but the noise and hurry of so great a thoroughfare being unpleasant, the Earl caused a fourth side to be erected, under the inspection of Inigo Jones, which, commanding a view over a spa- cious garden and the Surry Hills, unites the advantage of a palace situated in the midst of a large and popu- lous city, with the retirement of a country-seat. Be- sides other improvements, the whole of the front next the street was nearly rebuilt about 1750. The central part only received some trifling alteration, and may therefore be considered as a valuable remnant of the original pile. On the summit is a fine carved lion pas- saw* ; the crest of the noble family of Percy. The vestibule of the interior is eighty-two feet long, and more than twelve in breadth, ornamented with Doric columns. Each end communicates with a staircase, leading to the principal apartments facing the Thames, , HcblisTial by W.Cl^feNwJfondSlree&dyrJ-zlb'/ . WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 219 and embellished with paintings, by Titian, particularly the Cornaro family, and the works of other great mas- ters. The state-gallery on the left is one hundred and six feet long, most beautifully ornamented ; and here 1 are above one hundred and fifty rooms, appropriated for the several uses of the family. The garden lies between the house and Seotland-Yard, and forms a pleasing kind of scenery before the principal apartments. In this house the Earl of Northumberland, during the interregnum , received General Monk, and had a con- ference with him and several of the leading persons of the nation, when Charles the Second was for the first time proposed in direct terms, as a measure absolutely necessary for the peace and tranquillity of the kingdom. Nearer to Charing Cross was an ancient hermitage, withachapel dedicated to St. Catharine; this hermitage, ; in 1262, belonged to the see of LlandafF. A few sur- rounding houses, it is said, constituted the hamlet of Charing, where Edward the First built a beautiful wooden cross, as a testimony of his respect for his be- loved Queen Eleanor ; it was afterwards constructed of stone, and appears to have been of an octagonal form, and in an upper stage decorated with eight figures : the whole, however, was levelled by the intemperate fury of the bigots during the Reformation. Notwithstand- ing common fame has supposed a village or hamlet, called Charing , on this spot, previous to the death of Eleanor, the Queen of Edward the First, this is now asserted to have been an error, and, on the other hand, it is affirmed that the spot was afterwards called Charing, from the circumstance of its having been the resting- place of the remains of the Cliere Reyne , the dearly- beloved Queen. In fact, it does not appear that there 220 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. was any village on the spot, either before or after the event that caused the erection of the cross. If any argument was wanting to establish the probability of this conjecture, it would be worth observing, that in a View, published in the Antiquarian Repertory, after the supposed village of Charing was placed here, not more than a house or two appear on the spot, upon which an increasing number of them would naturally have been found. In this View, on the left of the Obser- ver, is a public-house, with some large trees before it, and one or two small cottages; probably all that ever gave birth to the report of the village of Charing situated here. Charing Cross , properly so called, was, about the year 1633, replaced by a most beautiful and animated statue in brass, of Charles the First, by Le Sceur, though it was not restored in its present state till 1678, when it was placed on the pedestal, the work of Grinlin Gibbons. The Rump Parliament had previously ordered it to be sold and broken to pieces ; but John River, the brazier w'ho pur- chased it, having more taste or more loyalty than his masters, buried it unmutilated, and shewed them some broken pieces of brass, in token of his obedience. Charles the First is most admirably represented in ar- mour with his own hair, uncovered, on horseback. The figures are brass, looking towards Whitehall, and are as large as life. The pedestal is seventeen feet high, enriched with the arms of England, trophies, cupids, palm branches, &c. enclosed with a rail and banister of iron- work ; the pedestal is erected in the centre of a circle of stone, thirty feet in diameter ; its area being one step above that of the street, fenced with strong posts, to keep off coaches, carts, &e. The Mews . — The north side of Charing Cross was i WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 221 appointed for keeping the king’s falcons as early as the reign of Richard the Second. The royal stables at Lomesbury, since called Bloomsbury , being destroyed by fire in the year 1537, Henry the Eighth caused the hawks to be removed, and this place to be fitted up for the royal stables. In the reign of George the Second, the old part of the building being decayed, his majesty caused the north side to be rebuilt in a magnificent manner, in 1732. Behind the Mews is Castle-Street, in which is a li- brary, founded, in 1685, by Dr. Ten ni son, Vicar of St. Martin’s, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, for the use of the parish and his school, over which it is placed, and consists of about five thousand volumes. Returning through the Mews to Charing Cross, is Craig y s Court, containing the principal office belonging to the Sun Fire Insurance Company, Scotland Yard anciently contained a palace for the kings of Scotland, given by King Edgar to Kenneth the Third, for the humiliating purpose of obliging him to make an annual journey to do homage for his kingdom. In aftertimes, when the northern monarchs did homage for Cumberland and other fiefs of the crown, it became at length a magnificent edifice ; and Margaret, widow of James the Fifth, and sister to Henry the Eighth of England, made it her residence a considerable time after her consort’s death. When the two crowns of England and Scotland became united in the person of James the First, this palace was deserted for those of St. James’s and Whitehall, and, having been demolished, no remains can be traced, or the exact place where it stood. Opposite was situate Wallingford House, built by 222 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. William Lord Knollys, Viscount Wallingford, in the second year of Charles the First. It was from the roof of this building that the pious Archbishop Usher was prevailed upon to take the last sight of his beloved so- vereign, when brought on the scaffold before White- hall. In the reign of William the Third this house was appointed for the Admiralty Office, which had been re- moved from Duke-Street, Westminster. This structure, rebuilt in the reign of George the Second, by Ripley, is a magnificent edifice of brick and stone. The front, facing the street, has two deep wings, and a very lofty portico, supported by four massy stone pillars. Besides the hail, and appropriate offices for transacting mari- time concerns, there were built seven large houses for the Lords Commissioners, who are ready on the spot in case of urgent business. The wall before the court was built in an elegant manner by the Adams; and a beautiful piazza, with a stately gateway in the centre, surmounted with marine ornaments, screens the fabric from the noise of a public street. The new house that has lately been erected here, for the habitation of Sir George Warrender, one of the Lords of the Admi- ralty, is stated to have cost 20,000/. During the late war, the telegraphs on the top of this building were very frequently occupied in receiving and communi- cating intelligence from the sea-ports. The Horse Guards constitute a noble modern edifice, which consists of a centre and two wings. In the centre are arched passages into St. James's Park, under the principal of which the King passes when he goes in state to the House of Peers. On each side there are pavilions and stables for the use of the horse-guards or other troops. A cupola, upon the summit of the build- 1 7 ' 7 " zZ£/ C jh Z WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 223 ing, serves to break the plainness without injuring the harmony of the structure. The wings are plainer than the centre ; they consist of a front, with a small projection ; the windowsin the principal story are ornamented; but those on the sides are plain. Each has a pediment, with a circular window in the middle; and under the two pavilions in front of the street, centinels mounted and in uniform, constantly do duty. The various offices for the War Department are in this building. Adjoining is Melbourn- House, built by Sir Matthew Featherstonehaugh, and afterwards purchased by Lord Melbourn, who exchanged it with His Royal Highness the Duke of York, for York- House, Piccadilly, who added the fronts and the dome-portico across the street. When the Duke removed to Portman-Square, the house was restored to Lord Melbourn. The Offices of the Treasury are contiguous ; this is a handsome stone building, fronting the Parade in St. James’s Park. The whole front is rustic, and consists of three stories; the lower Tuscan, and the second Doric, with good-sized arched windows. The upper part of , this story is singularly adorned with the tryglyphs and metopes of the Doric freeze, though this range of orna- ment is supported neither by columns nor pilasters. A range of Ionic columns above this supports a pedi- ment. Near the Treasury is the house usually appointed for the residence of the prime minister. A passage to the public street before Whitehall, under the Cockpit, is es- teemed a part of the ancient palace. A little northward from this entrance was the beautiful gate belonging to this palace, built by order of Henry the Eighth, from a design of Hans Holbein, enclosing the Tilt Yard, &c. Whitehall , originally built by Hubert de Burgh, Earl 324 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. of Kent, in the reign of Henry the Third, was, at his death, bequeathed by him to the Black Friars of Lon- don ; from them coming to Walter De Grey, Arch- bishop of York, it became the town-residence of the archbishops of that see ; till passing from the haughty Thomas Wolsey, the Cardinal, it came into the hands of the crown, and was formed into one of the royal palaces. The old palace occupied a space along the northern bank of the river, a little below Westminster Bridge, and extended to St. James’s Park, along the eastern end of which many of its various buildings lay, from the Cockpit to Spring Gardens. At present, that part of it which was along the river is occupied by the houses of the Earl of Liverpool, the Duke of Buccleugh, and others. The ancient building, which contained upwards of 1000 apartments, was mostly consumed by a fire, which broke out in the year 1697. The Banqueting-House, now remaining, derived its name from an old building, which, in the time of Elizabeth, served for public entertainments. This edifice was built by James the First, and is the work of Inigo Jones, in his best manner. It was part only of a vast and magnificent plan, left unexecuted by reason of the troubles which followed. It is a stone edifice of two stories, ornamented with columns and pilasters, with their entablatures ; and has an air of grandeur and sweetness, the united effect of which is extrernely fine. The great room of this edifice has been converted into a chapel, in which service is per- formed in the morning and evening of every Sunday ; George the First having granted a salary of thirty pounds per annum to twelve clergymen, selected WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 225 equally from Oxford and Cambridge, who officiate each one month in the year. It is much attended by persons of quality. The ceiling of this room was painted by Rubens. The subject is the Apotheosis of James the First, which is treated in nine compartments ; and Vandyke was to have painted the sides with the history of the Order of the Garter. The ceiling was very ably re-touched, a few years since, by Cipriani. The Ban- queting-House cost 17,000/.; the painting of the ceiling 3000/. ; and Cipriani had 2000/. for re-touching it. In the court behind the Banqueting-House is a statue, in brass, of James the Second, by Grinlin Gibbons. It is a fine performance, possessing grace and dignity in a superior degree. In front of the Banqueting- House, on a scaffold, Charles the First was beheaded, on the 30th of January, 1648-9. His Majesty passed from the Banqueting-House to the scaffold through one of the windows. In Whitehall-Chapel have been deposited the eagles, 'colours, and other trophies obtained from the French during the late revolutionary war. This took place, with great ceremony, on the 18th of May, 1811 ; and in January 1816, the eagles taken at the battle of Wa- terloo were placed here. It is to be observed, that as Whitehall used to be considered the principal palace, and the rest only 'appendages to it, it still maintains its ancient imaginary jconsequence ; the great offices of state are kept in the detached edifices, and all public business is dated from Whitehall. Before we quit this place, we should notice the brazen istatue of Janies the Second, by Grinlin Gibbons; the attitude is fine, the manner free and easy, the execution 2^6 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. finished and perfect ; and the expression of the face is inimitable, as it depicts the very soul of the unhappy monarch whom it is intended to commemorate. Among other improvements near the spot, the wall formerly ex- tending along Parliament-Street has been taken down, and an iron railing, with shrubberies, erected before the several houses, which gives the whole an airy and lively appearance. Advancing southward through Parliament-Street, an avenue which has been made since the construction of Westminster-Bridge, we arrive at Cannon-Roiv , formerly called St. Stephen’s Alley, from its being the residence of the Dean and Canons of St. Stephen’s collegiate chapel. Upon the dissolution of the college by Henry the Eighth, the site was occupied by several of the nobility and gentry, who built houses and laid out gar- dens towards the river. Derby-House stood upon what was afterwards called Derby-Court. Opposite to this Henry Clinton, Earl of Lincoln, had a handsome house, as had also the Sackville family, Earls of Dorset, whose name is still preserved in Dorset-Square. The Earl of Manchester’s house was in what is now called Man- chester Buildings, adjoining to which is Bridge Court , and Bridge-Street. Cannon-Row now contains the New Transport Office. This building is upon a solid commodious plan ; both fronts are faced with stone, and are simply elegant; and the interior is well calculated for the management of an extensive public business. Westminster-Bridge is a structure of that simplicity and grandeur, that, whether viewed from the water, or by the land-passenger, it fills the mind with admiration. The twenty-eight semi-octangular towers forming the recesses in the footway, the manner in which the lamps WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 227 are placed, and the height of the balustrades, are at once judiciously and beautifully contrived. This bridge is regarded by architects as one of the most beautiful in the World. It was begun in the year 1738, and finished in 1750, and cost 389,500/. The whole of the super- structure is of Portland stone, except the spandrils of the arches. It is 1223 feet long, and 44 feet wide ; has fifteen large semicircular arches. The cen- tral arch is seventy-six feet wide ; the other arches [decreasing in width five feet. The quantity of stone used in this bridge is said to have been nearly double to what was employed in St. Paul’s Cathedral. Before this bridge was built, the houses in this part of Westminster were very ruinous. Many of these were probably built about Le Wolstaple, held in New Palace- Yard. Henry the Sixth had no less than six wool-houses in this place ; and the conflux of people towards this wool-market caused such an increase, that in time the royal village of Westminster became a town. The ancient clock-house or tower stood opposite Westminster- Hall Gate : the tower being demolished in 1715, the great bell, or Old Tom of Westminster, was | granted to the clock of the new cathedral of St. Paul. On the old bell was inscribed. Tercius aptabit me Rex Edouardque vocavif , Sancti decore Edouardi signcretur ut hore : meaning, that Edward the Third gave this bell, in order that the hours of prayer, appointed by Edward the Confessor, might be properly observed. The range of ancient buildings on the south side of this quadrangle I next the Thames, belonged to the Court of Star-chamber, 228 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. a court so shamefully abused as to be abolished in the reign of Charles the First, and never since restored. Westminster-Hcill was built by William Rufus as a banqueting-house to the palace, which then stood in Old Palace-Yard ; but old Westminster-Hall was pulled down, and the present edifice erected in its stead, in the year 1397. This ancient building is of stone, the front ornamented with two towers, adorned with carved work. The hall within is reckoned the largest room in Europe, being 270 feet in length, and seventy-four in breadth. The pavement is of stone, and the roof of chesnut wood. It was formerly covered with lead, but this being found too weighty, it has been slated for many years past. In entering the hall at the front gate, there are stairs on each side adjoining to the wall; the right leading to the Court of Exchequer, and the left to the office where the revenue is paid in, called the Receipt of the Exchequer. The Court of Common Pleas is on the west side, nearly in the middle of the hall, and was established by Magna Charta in the year 1215, being before ambulatory, in following the king. The Court of Chancery is so called from the Latin word Cancelli, or a screen, within which the judges sat to determine causes, without being annoyed by the spec- tators. The Court of King's Bench is situated directly opposite the Court of Chancery, and is so called from a high bench on which our ancient rnonarchs usually sat in person, whilst the judges to whom the judicature was deputed in their absence, sat on lower benches at their feet. The situation of the exterior of this hall is still a subject of regret with the antiquary, in the poor muti- lated headless figures which occupy several niches on -Pulbjkedijy WGar&efflay-BandStrdst-DecJiifaS. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 229 the outside ; but they are fast sinking to utter decay, as are also the arms and other decorations that once adorned the gate and walls of this ancient building. The arms of Edward the Confessor are, however, here and there plainly to be made out ; as are also several roses, portcullises, quatrefoils, cinquefoils, shields, &c. A dark passage from the south-east corner of the Hall lately led to St. Stephen’s Chapel- Yard and Old Palace Yard. From this part the beautiful ancient cloisters may be observed, with their rich-groined arches and sculptured key-stones. Before this Hall was anciently a handsome conduit or fountain, with nu- merous spouts, whence, on occasions of rejoicing, streams of wine issued to the populace ; at other times the in- habitants received the waste water from this source for their domestic uses. New Palace Yard , was so called on account of its being the site of the palace which Richard the Second added to the more ancient building, and called it the New Palace, for distinction sake. Adjoining to the south-east angle of Westminster- Hall are the remains of St. Stephens Chapel, first erected by King Stephen ; but being rebuilt by Edward the Third, in 1347, he made it collegiate, and built for its use, in the Little Sanctuary, a strong clochier or bell tower, covered with lead, and containing three large bells, which were usually rung at coronations, funerals, &c. Near this was another smaller chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of the Pew, burnt down in the reign of Richard the Second. After the surrender of St. Ste- phen’s chapel to Edward the Sixth, that monarch gave permission that it should be converted to a chamber of parliament. The west front of this venerable chapel is x 230 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. still nearly entire, and has a fine Gothic window of great size and beauty. The Speaker's house is joined to, and may be almost said to form a part of the House of Commons itself. This house was a small court of the palace, but has of late years been greatly altered, enlarged, and beautified, under the direction of Mr. Wyatt, who, to a stuccoed front, has added two pin- nacles at the east end. An old view from the Thames, taken before the towers of the Abbey were erected, represented St. Stephen’s chapel with pinnacled but- tresses on the sides and angles, and double ranges of windows, fairly marked with ramified mullions ; this part is now adorned by the most minute ornaments and tracery, in the pointed style of Henry the Eighth, by Mr. Wyatt, in a new lime, which is moulded, and congeals instantaneously. The front of the building next the river has partaken of the same decoration ; but none of these modern antiques can compensate for the demolition of the original ornaments of St. Ste- phen's chapel. The House of Commons. This may now be entered from the Speaker's house by a passage which has been made for the purpose ; the whole front of this house next the street has been rebuilt in its present Gothic style, and cased with stucco. Beneath the house, in passages or apartments, are considerable remains, in great perfection, of an under chapel, and the entire side of a cloister ; the roof of this is scarcely surpassed by that of Henry the Seventh for richness and beauty. Mr. Wyatt's front of the House of Commons con- sists of an elegant colonade, &c. which connects the entrance to both houses. Within are rooms for the great officers of state, and numerous committee rooms WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 231 for the various business requiring separation from the house. The floor of the house was newly laid in the course of 1816; and a new fire-place, or rather a Rus- sian stove, has been placed in the lobby, which, without being seen, will emit considerable heat. The House of Lords is on the south side of the Commons, adjoining the Hall. It is an oblong room, rather less than that in which the Commons meet ; this, as well as the other house, was repaired and beautified on the occasion of the Union with Ireland. In the front next to Abingdon-Street it is decorated with pinnacles ; and though by no means a splendid room, it is never- theless very handsome. The old canopy of state under which the throne is placed, remains as it was before the Union, excepting that its tarnished state is rendered more conspicuous by the arms of the United Kingdoms being inserted into the old stuff embroidered with silk, with silver supporters. The throne is an armed chair, elegantly carved and gilt, ornamented with crimson velvet and silver embroidery. The doors of the offices round the house have been lately painted green and white; and the site of the ground behind the West- minster Sessions House, has been entirely cleared of the old decayed buildings, and a fine opening made from that to Princes-Street. Between the House of Lords and the House of Com- mons is the Painted Chamber, said to have been Edward the Confessor's bed-chamber : conferences are some- times held here between the two houses or their com- mittees. The vast mass of buildings in the Old and New Palace-Yards constituted the ancient palace of the monarchs of England, erected by Edward the Confessor ; these being mostly consumed by a fire in 232 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. the year 1512, the Court afterwards removed to White- hall and St. James’s. In St. Margaret's Street is a respectable stone building for the committee-rooms and offices belonging to the House of Commons. Proceeding through Abingdon - Street, the furthest extent of the city of London is at Milbank. Here Peterborough-House was occupied by the Earls of Peterborough, and by the Grosvenor family within the last half century. The filling up of the marsh on the right-hand side proceeding towards Chelsea, with the number of new buildings, have nearly destroyed this pleasant walk, once bounded by the Thames and its willows on one side, and by fields, gar- dens, and a number of small neat dwellings on the other. The church of St. John the Evangelist is on the west side of Milbank-Street. On the north and south sides of this edifice are magnificent porticos, supported by vast stone pillars, as is also the roof of the church. At each of the four corners is a beautiful stone tower, and pinnacle : for the church beginning to sink while it was building in 1721, these additions were erected, in order that the whole might sink equally. The parts of this building are held together by iron bars, which even cross the aisles ! The elegant portico, in front, is supported by Doric pillars. Passing into Tufton- Street is a house, which Mr. Moser says was the resi- dence of Colonel Blood, after he had stolen the crown from the Tower. It is distinguished by having a shield upon the brick work over the first story, from which the arms are now obliterated. “■ In this street there is a building devoted to the brutal and unmanly prac- tice of cock-fighting. It is a large circular area, with a slightly elevated platform in the centre, surrounded WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 233 by benches rising in gradation nearly to the top of the building.” In Peter-Street is the gasometer and works belonging to the Gas Light and Coke Company. Proceeding towards Vauxhall-Bridge we come to the Milbank Penitentiary, for the reception of convicts and others, who are to be confined here in lieu of being sent to the hulks. This building, which has some re- semblance in its exterior to the House of Correction in Cold Bath Fields, is walled round, and though built of brick, has much of the appearance of a fortification ; and though not finished, it already covers considerably more than twelve acres of ground. The entrance is very handsome, having the word Penitentiary, in very large letters, placed over the gateway, which leads into a spacious area. Mr. Harvey is the architect. The rooms in which the convicts will reside, are as comfortable as can be expected by individuals who have forfeited their claim to remain at large : they are about twelve feet by six, lofty, with an arch. Each cell is furnished with an iron bedstead, a mattrass, a coarse sheet, pair of blankets, bolster, and a rug ; also a table with a drawer in it, and a chair. The windows are glazed inside, and iron rails or bars outside. The whole of them are warmed by means of flues placed in the passages, and proper measures are adopted to insure regular ventilation. The rooms all look towards the centre of a circle (which is divided by brick walls into court-yards for exercise), where the principal Task- master resides, and commands a complete view of all that is doing. Women are to act as turnkeys to the female prisoners, and all communication with the male convicts will be entirely prevented. x 2 334 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. The chapel is very large for the accommodation of the committee, officers, and prisoners. There are schools for religious and moral instruction ; the latter upon Dr, Bell’s plan, under the immediate superintendance of the chaplain, who distributes amongst them, ac- cording to his discretion, religious books, at the ex* pence of the establishment. He keeps a journal of observation, and daily sees and converses with the pri* soners as to the state of their minds, and gives spiritual advice to the sick, and to all who require it. The governor and matron also keep a journal of observation, and though the prisoners are treated with the greatest kindness, yet the management of the prison is so con* ducted, that they must feel, in a proper degree, the punishment of being confined. From Lady-day to Michaelmas, the prisoners who are in health, rise at half past five, and at day-break during the remainder of the year. Half an hour is allowed them for dressing and washing — then they commence their work. At nine o’clock they have their breakfast ; at half past nine they resume their work. At one o’clock their dinners are distributed among them, and an hour is allowed for dinner, air, and exer- cise ; at two o’clock they return to work. At six o’clock in summer, and at sun-set in winter, they leave off work. In the winter all the prisoners are then locked into their night cells, except on the evenings on which they are assembled for the purpose of religious and moral instruction. In the summer months they are not locked up till seven o’clock, an hour being al- lowed during these months for air and exercise in the courts. Immediately after they are locked up in their Walks through London. 235 Separate cells for the night, their suppers are delivered to them. On a Sunday they rise at seven from Lady-day to Michaelmas, and at eight during the remainder of the year. They attend the chapel twice in the day, are allowed a considerable time between the hours of Divine Service and the time allotted for their private religious instruction, for air and exercise. Soon after they leave the chapel in the evening, they are locked up in their night cells, that those who are so disposed may have an opportunity of improving themselves by reading and reflection. — They are frequently examined publicly in the chapel as to the progress they have made in their religious instruction. When walking in the courts they are always under the inspection of a turnkey, who must attend to their behaviour, and prevent their loitering and standing still for the purpose of conversation, instead of taking such exercise as may be essential to their health. Dress .— First class, yellow and brown ; second class, green and brown — made of cheap and coarse materials, with such marks or peculiarities as may tend to facilitate discovery in case of escape. No strangers are admitted to see any part of the prison in the occupation of prisoners, unless by an order from His Majesty’s Principal Secretary of State for the Home Department, or unless accompanied by a Member of the Committee. No prisoners, during the period of their confinement, are permitted to see their friends, unless by an order from the Committee or from the Visitor. This indulgence is granted only to such prisoners whose conduct, on reference to the Chaplain, Governor, and Master Manu- 236 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. facturer (or Matron, if a female prisoner), may appear* to entitle them to such favour. The interview between the prisoners and their friends can only take place in the presence of an officer of the prison. If any prisoner be dangerously ill in the infirmary, he or she may, at the discretion of the Chaplain, be visited by his or her friends. No provisions or liquors are allowed to be con- veyed into the prison by any friends of the prisoners. The prisoners are allowed a per centage on their work. The Governor may, with the consent of the Committee, indulge industrious prisoners by allowing them to work after the hours appointed for labour. Prisoners of the second class may be reported to the Secretary of State for the Home Department, in con- sequence of any extraordinary diligence, in order that they may be recommended by him as objects of the Royal Mercy. We now return to Westminster Abbey, or the Abbey Church of St. Peter. As our limits prevent us from going far into the history of this edifice, suffice it to remark, that it was first erected by Sebert, King of the East Saxons, about 616, and after the ravages of the Danes, by Edgar, in 969, and lastly re-erected entirely by Edward the Confessor, in 1065. Henry the Third, about 1220, built a chapel to the Blessed Virgin, then called the New Work at Westminster; and, about twenty years after, finding the walls and steeple of the old structure much decayed, he caused the whole to be pulled down, intending to rebuild the fabric in a more regular manner; but he dying, it was not com- pleted till fourteen years after : this is the date of the present building. Henry the Seventh began the mag- nificent structure bearing his name, about the year WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 237 1502, when he pulled down Henry the Third’s chapel, and an adjoining house called the White Rose Tavern ; but no very material alterations were made in the out- ward structure, after the death of Henry the Seventh, till the reign of George the Second, when it was thoroughly repaired at the national expence. The whole has been new coated on the outside, except Henry the Seventh’s chapel ; and the west end adorned with two stately towers. In viewing the outside, the attention is particularly engaged by the magnificent portico of the north cross, which has been styled the Beautiful or Solomon* s Gate. This portico, probably built by Richard the Second, has been beautified; and over it is a window of modern date, finely executed. On the south side is a window set up in 1705. The building within the walls is 360 feet long, the nave 72 feet broad, and at the cross 195. The Gothic arches and side aisles are supported by forty-eight pillars of grey marble, each composed of slender clusters, covered with ornaments. On entering Ithe west door, the whole body of the church presents itself at one view ; the pillars dividing the nave from the side aisles being so contrived as not to obstruct the side-openings ; nor is the sight terminated to the east but by the fine painted windows over Edward the Con- fessor’s Chapel ; and the pillars terminate towards the east by a sweep, enclosing this chapel in a kind of isemi-circle. These pillars, as far as the gates of the choir, arefilletted with brass, but all beyond with stone. In conformity to the middle range of pillars, there are ^others in the wall, which, as they rise, spring into semi- arches, and meet in acute angles with their opposites, which, in the roof, are adorned with a variety of (carvings. At the bottom of the walls, between the pillars, are shallow niches, arched about eight or ten feet high. 938 WALKS THROUGH LONDON, in which the arms of the original benefactors are de- picted ; round these are their titles, &c. but they are mostly concealed by the monuments. On the arches of the pillars are galleries of double columns fifteen feet wide, covering the side aisles, and enlightened by a middle range of windows, over which is an upper range still larger; these, with the four capital windows facing the north, east, south, and west, enlighten the whole fabric in an admirable manner. The choir is a late improvement, and made more commodious for the cele- bration of divine worship, performed every day at ten in the morning, and at three in the afternoon. Round the choir are eleven chapels. In that of St. Benedict is an ancient tomb railed in, and containing the effigy of Archbishop Langham, who had been a monk, prior, and abbot of Westminster. Behind the altar is the Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor. It extends to the fourth western pillar, and is formed by the circular sweep of the east end of the choir. This chapel is ascended by ten wooden steps. The pavement was at one time of exquisite workman- ship ; but the constant tread of visitors, and the depre- dations of idle persons in many places, have almost worn away the stone from the marbles inlaid upon them. The ground-work of this fine pavement consists of large irregular dark stones, cut into circles inter- secting others, triangles within triangles, and many other geometrical figures which are filled with thousands of pieces in the above shapes, of the same valuable materials that compose the pavement above the altar. In this chapel is the ancient shrine of St. Edward, once the glory of England, but now neglected, defaced, and much abused. A few traces of it exist, but they are scarcely perceptible. Only two q f its spiral pillars re- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 239 main ; the western* and a capital at the east, and one of these is in a very precarious state. The wooden Ionic top is much broken and covered with dust; the Mosaic is picked away in almost every part within reach, and the Latin inscription upon the architrave, is only legible in part. The shrine, the production of Pietro Calvalini, was erected by Henry the Third, upon the canonization of Edward ; and this king was the last of the Saxon race. “ Before the Confessor’s shrine,” Mr. Pennant observes, “ the spolia opima seem to have been offered. The Scottish regalia, and their sacred chair from Scone, were offered here ; and Alphonso, third son to Edward the First, who died in his child- hood, presented the golden coronet of the unfortunate Welsh prince, the last Llewelyn. The Coronation Chair, represented in the wood cut, is preserved in this [chapel. ! 240 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. The most ancient of the coronation chairs was brought with the regalia from Scotland, by Edward the First, in the year 1297, after he had overcome John Baliol, King of Scots, in several battles, and offered here. The stone under the seat, of an oblong shape, and a rough cast, is reported to have been Jacob’s pillow. The other chair was made for Queen Mary the Second ; and at coronations, one or both of these are covered with gold tissue, and placed before the altar, in the choir. In this chapel is the long rusty iron sword of Edward the First ; and the wooden part of his shield, broken and patched, rests on his tomb. “ Fourteen legendary hieroglyphics respecting the Confessor, appear round the frieze of the chapel-screen : they are extremely rude pieces of workmanship. They describe respectively, the trial of Queen Emma; the birth of Edward; that monarch’s coronation; the story of his being frightened into the abolition of the Danegelt, by seeing the devil dance upon the money bags ; the story of his winking at the thief who was robbing his treasury; the miraculous appearance of the Saviour to him ; the story of the drowning of the Danish King, by which the invasion of England was prevented ; the quarrel between the boys Tosti and Harold, predicting their respective fates ; the Con- fessor’s vision of the Seven Sleepers; his vision of St. John the Evangelist, in the habit of a pilgrim ; the story of curing the eyes of the blind, by washing in the Evangelist’s dirty water; the Evangelist delivering a ring to the pilgrims; the pilgrims delivering the ring to the king, which he had inadvertently given to St. John as an alms, when he met him in the form of a pilgrim ; this was attended,” continues the legend, WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 241 ff with a message from the Saint, foretelling the death of the king : lastly, the consequential haste made by him to complete his pious foundation.” These basso- relievos were between fifteen quatrefoils, but one is gone ; every other, with a shield, has a black label along the bottom. The screen containing these whimsical memorials was ornamented with deer and swans chained to a beacon, a female figure with an animal on her knees and painted shields of arms ; but they are almost obliterated. Se- veral iron hooks are left, from which it is supposed lamps used to be suspended. From this part buttresses ascend; between them were canopies, exceedingly rich (three of these are destroyed). The niches vary in size. Seven are for figures large as life ; the middle statue is re- moved. The others are a man kneeling at his devo- tions; a King erect praying; St. George in armour piercing the dragon’s throat; a female seated with her hands crossed ; another monarch and St. Dionysius who carried his head after his decapitation. Over the place where the altar of this Chapel stood are thirty statues in four ranges; they are much broken and decayed. Of the armour of Henry the Fifth which once hung round this Oratory, nothing remains but a plain rusty iron hel- met, part of a saddle, and a shield, without any symp- tom of royalty about them. Ascending the parapet fa- cing the tomb of St. Edward, still lies the stone coffin of that saint, firmly bound with iron, and covered with dust. On the south side of the shrine just described, lies Editha, daughter of Goodwyn, Earl of Kent, and Queen of St. Edward; she died in 1118. Here is also the tomb of Henry the Third and that of his son Edward the First, surnamed Long Shanks. The Society of An- 242 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. tiquaries having discovered, in reading Rymer’s Faidera, that this monarch was enclosed in wax, in a stone coffin here, to satisfy their curiosity, applied to Dr. Thomas, Dean of Westminster, for leave to have the tomb opened. This being readily granted, in the month of May 1770, the Dean, with about fifteen of the Society, attended, when on lifting the lid of the tomb, the royal body was found as described, wrapped in a strong thick linen cloth waxed on the inside : the head and face were co- vered with a sudarium , or face-cloth, of crimson sarsnet, wrapped in three folds ; and the body was wrapped in fine cerecloth, closely fitted to every part, even to the fingers and face. Over this cloth was a tunic of red silk damask ; above that a stole of thick white tissue crossed the breast, and on this, at six inches distant from each other, quatrefoils of filligre work of gilt me- tal, set with false stones, imitating rubies, sapphires, ame- thysts, &c. The intervals between these quatrefoils were powdered with minute white beads, tacked down in the most elegant embroidery, in form not unlike a true- lover’s knot.. Above these was the royal mantle of rich crimson satin, fastened on the left shoulder with a magnificent fibula of gilt metal, richly chased and or- namented with several pieces of red and four of blue transparent paste, with twenty-four more of pearl. The corpse, from the waist downwards, was covered with a rich cloth of figured gold, falling down to the feet, and tacked beneath them. On the back of each hand was a quatrefoil like those on the stole. In the king’s right hand was a sceptre of copper gilt, and of elegant work- manship, reaching to the shoulders ; in the left, the rod and the dove, which passed over the shoulder, and reached his ear. The dove stood on a ball, placed on WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 243 three ranges of oak leaves, of enamelled green ; the dove was white enamel. On the head was a crown, charged with trefoils, made of gilt metal. The head was lodged in a cavity of the stone coffin, always obser- vable in those receptacles of the dead : the royal corpse measured six feet two inches. The rest of the Royal monuments in this chapel, which our limits prohibit us from describing, are highly worthy the notice of the curious. Henry the Seventh’s Chapel, which has been styled the Wonder of the World, is adorned with sixteen Go- thic towers, beautifully ornamented, and projecting from the building in different angles. It is situated to the east of the Abbey, to which it is so neatly joined, that, upon a superficial view, it would seem to be one and the same building : it is enlightened by a double range of windows. In the towers are niches, upon which stood a number of statues, till removed by order of the Rump Parliament ; and these towers are joined to the roof by Gothic arches. The ascent to the inside is by steps of black marble, leading to the gates, which open to the body or nave of the Chapel : a door on each hand leads to the side aisles. The gates of the nave are of brass, curiously wrought in the manner of frame work, having in every other open panriel, a rose and a portcullis, alternately. The lofty ceiling is wrought with an astonishing variety of figures and fret work, and the stalls are of brown wainscot, with Gothic canopies. The east view, from the en- trance, presents the brass chapel and tomb of the founder; and round it, where this end forms a semi- circle, are the Chapels of the Dukes of Buckingham and Richmond. The walls, as well as the nave, are 244 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. wrought into the most curious imagery, and contain one hundred and twenty large statues of patriarchs, saints, martyrs, and confessors, besides angels and other innu- merable small figures. The numerous windows were formerly of painted or diapered glass, having in every pane a white rose, the badge of Lancaster, or an H, the initial of the founder's name. The length of this Chapel within is ninety-nine feet, the breadth twenty- six, and the height fifty-four. Ill a more detailed description of this wonderful piece of architecture, it is observed, “ some new per- fections may be discovered after the fiftieth examina- tion ; and first the gates of brass. The great gate is divided into sixty perfect squares, and five imperfect ones; these contain pierced crowns and portcullises, the King's initials, fleur de lis, an eagle, three thistles springing through a coronet, their stalks terminating in seven feathers, three lions, and a crown, supported by sprigs of roses : on each division of the gate is a rose, and between them dragons; some of these are broken off'. The smaller gates contain twenty-eight squares each, with the above-mentioned emblems ; the two pillars between the gates are twice filletted, and the capitals are foliage : the animals, badges of the King, hold fanciful shields on them, but have lost their heads, and are otherwise mutilated. The angles of the three arches are filled with lozenges, circles, and quatrefoils, with arose in the centre of the latter. Fourteen figures of angels, habited as bishops and priests, and crowned, extend across the nave : the two corner ones are hidden by the canopies over the respective stalls of Prince Frederick (the Duke of York) and the king's stall, bearing the flag of England and France ; this canopy has no crest. From JPubUsliaL ly W Gorki ITew£oruLStrert March, WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 245 hence to the roof the space is filled by a great window of many compartments, so much intersected and arched, that a description would not be comprehended : the lower part is blank; the upper contains figures in painted glass, crosses or crowns, and fleur-de-lis, single feathers of the Prince of Wales’s crest, red and blue mantles, portcullises, crowns and garters, crowns and the red rose, two roses or wheels full of red, blue, and yellow I glass. But little light passes through this window', it is so near the end of the Abbey, and covered with dust. Several fragments of pinnacles of glass remain in the arches of the lower divisions, which were parts of the canopies over saints. The side aisles have four arches, hid by the stalls ; the clustered pillars between them, five in number, support great arches on the roof, each of which have twenty-three small semi-quatrefoil arches on their surface, and two rich pendants or drops : there are five small drops in the centre.” Four windows, very like the western, fill the spaces next the roof ; all i of them, more or less, containing painted glass, and red, yellow, and blue panes. Five of the windows were restored in 1815. Excellent, indeed, are the canopies, niches, and statues under these ; and seventy-three sta- tues in this chapel are all so varied in their attitudes, features, and drapery, that it is impossible to say any two are alike. The disposition of their limbs is shewn through the clothing, and the folds of their robes fall in those bold marked lines, which are the characteristics of superior sculpture and painting. The Chapter ■’House, built in 1250, is on the east side of the cloisters ; for its stone roof, timber w'as afterwards substituted. Beneath is a very singular crypt, the walls y 2 946 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. of which are eighteen feet thick, and form a firm base to the superstructure. The Jerusalem Chamber was an- ciently part of the abbot’s lodgings, and is famous for being the place in which the ambitious Henry the Fourth ended a life of anxiety. Westminster- School, erected about the year 1070, was refbunded by Queen Elizabeth in 1560, for a head and second master, and for forty students, called “ King’s scholars,” and twelve almsmen. The broad part, on the north side of the Abbey, was appointed as a Sanctuary ; the church belonging to it was in the form of a cross and double, the one being built over the other. Dr. Stukeley, who remembered it standing, says it was of great strength, and was not demolished without great labour, and is supposed to have been the work of the Con- fessor. Westminster Market rose on the site of this ancient fabric ; and this being long disused, was taken down to make room for the new Guildhall for the city and liberty of Westminster. In closing this brief account of the Abbey, by a re- view of its exterior, as it now appears, it may be ob- served, “ the great door-way is of considerable depth, and contracts inwards. The sides are composed of pan- nels, and the roof intersected with numerous ribs. On each side of the door are pedestals in empty niches, with shields in quatrefoils beneath them. . A cornice extends over the whole, on which are ten niches, sepa- rated by small buttresses; they are without statues, and their canopies are cones, foliaged and pinnacled. Above these is another cornice of a doubtful order : the King’s, and eight other coats of arms, adorn the frieze above it. Hence arises the great window before-mentioned ; WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 247 it lias a border of eight pointed enriched pannels, a large heavy cornice over it, and a frieze inscribed Georgis II. A. D. 1736. The roof is pointed, and contains a small window. Two great buttresses strengthen the towers, and are considerable ornaments, with two ranges of canopied niches, unfortunately deprived of the statues on their fronts. Each tower has projecting wings pannelled. The lower windows are pointed ; those above them arches, only filled with quatrefoils and circles. It is from this part that the incongruity of the new design begins in a Tuscan cornice ; then a Grecian pediment, and enrichments over the dial of the clock, with a plain window, pannels, and battlements. The truly great and excellent architect. Sir Christopher Wren, reprobates irreconcileable mixtures in such de- signs; “ I shall speedily prepare perfect drafts and models, such as I conceive proper to agree with the original scheme of the architect, without any modern mixtures to shew my inventions.” The ancient front of the Jerusalem Chamber obstructs the view of the south tower; it has a square window of a horizontal direction, and three upright mullions, with a battle- ment repaired with bricks. The wall extends some distance westward, when it terminates in modernized houses, against the end of which is the ruin of a great arch of decayed stone, leading to Dean’s Yard. The north side of the Abbey has nine buttresses, each of five gradations, with windows to the side aisles, and over them semi-windows filled with quatrefoih These buttresses join the nave by slender arches ; the wall finishes with battlements. The niches on the but- tresses still remain, though there are but four statues. 248 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. which appear but little injured, and are excellent figures. What Sir Christopher Wren said of the north side, nearly one hundred years past, is strictly descriptive at this moment — “ The stone is decayed four inches deep, and falls off perpetually in great scales.” And so indeed has the casing intended to repair it from the north transept to the towers, leaving a decayed, cor- roded, and weather-beaten surface, half black, and half the colour of the stones. The front of the transept is less injured, because most of the heavy rains are from the west ; and the north sides remain perfectly smooth and good, as Sir Christopher Wren left them. The great door is an arch from four large pillars on each side, whose capitals are singularly beautiful. Within them is a range of ten circles, enclosing stars on the roof, and on the sides arched pannels. The wall is of considerable thickness, adorned by six columns on both sides. The space over the principal entrance has a vast circle of circles, and within it another of pointed pan- nels; and in a third, others with the arms of Edward the Confessor for a centre. Above the whole is a range of pierced arches. Four enormous buttresses secure the front ; those at the angles terminate in octagons, and connect with the upper part of the walls, over the side aisles, by strong arches. All the chapels that project on the north-east and south-east, are in their designs like the body of the church ; those to the north are enclosed by a row of handsome houses, so near “ that there is no room left for raising of scaffolds and ladders, nor for a passage f‘pr bringing materials.” This was the complaint of 2)r&vnJcj£7i#rayaci&y WJFhZ&s fbr&ieTPti&cs ttMu/TiLaiidan AtMiskd-byJtrJt Y'4t J&>?. Z-Z&7. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 249 Sir Christopher, who also hoped the sovereign power would take compassion on the chapel of St. Mary, the sepulture of the royal family. All these earnest wishes of this great man are now in the fairest way of being soon realized ; the work of renovation is far advanced, and already excites the at- tention of every foreigner. The repairs on the south side of the Abbey are still perfect. The chapter-house, which hides all the south end of the transept, is pro- tected on the east by a vast pierced buttress, with very large pointed windows, now filled up : they had each one mull ion, in the shape of the letter Y. A very tran- sient and imperfect sight is to be obtained of the front of the transept, and that from the cloisters only ; four huge buttresses support it : the six buttresses on the outside of the nave have their ba^es without the walls of the cloister. “ This manner of contriving them,” Sir Christopher Wren says, “ was the work of a bold but ignorant architect, for flattering the humour of the monks.” At the entrance of the cloisters from Dean’s Yard , much remains of the walls of the original buildings; and where sash windows and other alterations are not introduced, they bear all the marks of venerable iage and decay. Dean's Yard is certainly an odd mixture pf decayed grandeur. There is a silent monastic air in (the small court from which is the entrance to the Jeru- Isalem chamber, which has also undergone various alterations, from the Reformation to the present time.. It is now used for a Chapter-house. The picture of Richard the Second, so often engraved, now adorns this room ; and, with some tapestry, an old chimney- 250 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. piece, and a little painted glass, remind the antiquary of past days. Two anti-chambers are more in their original state ; in one is a handsome niche. The Abbot's Hall is on the western side, and contains a gallery ; at the south end, east of the passage leading to the school, is a long ancient building, whose basement story is roofed with semi-circular groined arches, arising from pillars with handsome capitals. At the north end, the Regalia is said to have been kept. The upper story is used as the school-room. This building, if we may pronounce from the Saxon style, is the most ancient in the pre- cincts of the Abbey. Very little is left of the lesser cloisters. Near it is another portion or room of equal antiquity. The place here in which the records of the House of Lords were, kept, was originally a great tower, but is now greatly altered, as is likewise the inside of the Old Chapter House, to make room for the Treasury Records of the Exchequer and Domesday Book. The roof, as usual in such buildings, is supported by a central column ; but the galleries, shelves, and presses, defy description. However, fragments in some places, and large portions in others of walls, gates, &c. may be found in many directions, by which means the an- cient enclosure of these extensive buildings might be traced with considerable accuracy. We must pass over the monuments, &c. in the inte- rior, as being in themselves almost sufficient to occupy a small volume. We now proceed to St. James's Park, which is of an oblong form, and nearly two miles in circumference. The beauty of this park is heightened by the prospect WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 251 of the Green Park, separated from it by an iron railing, but which gradually rises into a fine verdant eminence, called Constitution Hill. The Green Park extends to Piccadilly, and leads to Hyde Park. In St. James’s Park the guards parade every day between ten and eleven o’clock ; this, with a full band of music, renders it very lively and attractive. On the north side of the parade, within a chevaux-de-frize fence, is the cele- brated piece of Turkish ordnance, represented in the wood cut. It is of great length, and was taken by the British troops at Alexandria in Egypt, during the revolutionary war. It is mounted on a very handsome carriage, or- namented with hieroglyphics. St. James’s Park atFords many pleasant walks, and is a grand thoroughfare from London and Westminster to Chelsea, Kensington, & c. At the east end, facing the Treasury, is the spacious parade for the exercise of the horse and foot-guards. This spot has lately received the singular embellishment, known by the common 252 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. appellation of the Prince Regent’s Bomb. The history of this celebrated piece of ordnance, which was first exposed to public view on the 12th of August 1816, is as follows : In 1812, the city of Cadiz having endured a long siege by the French, it was raised on the 24th and 25th of August, when, amongst the artillery abandoned by the French to the Spaniards, was an enormous mortar, which, being left spiked, was, with one of smaller di- mensions, presented by the Cortes to the Prince Regent. It had been employed in throwing shells the immense distance of three miles ; and it has actually thrown to the distance of three miles and a half. Soon after its arrival at Woolwich, orders were issued for constructing an appropriate carriage. An emblem has been selected (in allegorical allusion to the means by which the siege of Cadiz was terminated) from the labours of Hercules, who destroyed the monster Geryon, the tyrant of the isle of Gades, thus figuratively de- scribing the raising of the siege, and to illustrate the fame of the hero, who had broken the enchantment of the modern Geryon. Some liberties have been taken with the principal figure, in substituting wings for the heads ; the tails twist round to the vent, in order to convey the scorpion fire. The heads of the tyrant’s guardian dog are re- presented in the alternate state of activity and repose, to denote eternal watchfulness. Its station being fixed on the Parade in St. James’s Park, a few yards from the iron railing enclosing the canal, and immediately opposite the centre of the Horse-Guards, the work proceeded within a canvas WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 253 enclosure. On Thursday, August 2, the mortar was lifted on a carriage, cast in gun-metal, under the direc- of General Cuppage. It was four years in completing. On the breech of the gun is the founder’s inscrip- tion : ‘•'No. 7,390 — Seville, 11 de Marco, 1811.” The length of the mortar is eight feet ; the diameter of its bore at the mouth is twelve inches ; its weight, five tons. — The pedestal is nine feet long, four feet wide, two feet eight inches high, and weighs five tons and a half : it was cast all in one piece. The total weight of the mortar, its carriage, and pedestal, is about fifteen tons. The height of the whole, from the ground, is about nine feet and a half. The mouth of the mortar points at an elevation of forty-three degrees over the Horse-Guards. The front of the pedestal bears the Prince’s plume of feathers in alto-relievo. The following are in raised brass letters : — INSCRIPTION ON THE BACK OP THE PEDESTAL J “ Constructed in the Carriage Department, Royal Arsenal, Earl ofMuLGRAVE, Master-General, 1814.” INSCRIPTION ON THE SOUTH SIDE, NEXT WESTMINSTER ABBEY . Devictis, a WELLINGTON, Duce propre Salamancam, Gallis, Solutaque exinde GADItJM obsidione, hanc, quam, aspictis, Basi superimpositam BOM BARD AM, Vi Praeditam adhuc inaudit& Ad urbem portumque GADITANIUM destruendum, conflatum Et a copiis turbatis relictara, CORTES HISPANICI pristinorum haudquaquam ; Beneficiorum obliti, summae venerationis testimonio donaverunt GEORGIO : ILLUS : PRINC : IQui in pcrpetuam rei Memoriam, hoc loco ponendam, et his orna- ment is decorandam, jussit. z I 254 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. INSCRIPTION ON THE NORTH SIDE, NEXT CARLTON HOUSE ! To commemorate The raising of the Siege of CADIZ, in consequence of the glorious victory gained by the DUKE OF WELLINGTON Over the French, near SALAMANCA, on the XXII. of July, M.DCCC.XII. This MORTAR, cast for the destruction of that great Port, with powers surpassing all others, And abandoned by the BESIEGERS bn their RETREAT, Was presented, as a token of respect and gratitude, by the SPANISH NATION TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE REGENT. This chimera of its kind, has been by some persons, compared to the chimerical imagination of its former master, Buonaparte. Those who notice curious coin- cidences will observe, that as Homer’s chimera was overcome by Bellerophon, so Buonaparte s surrendered to the British ship of war of the same name. Nor can any one deny that a strong similarity exists between Homer’s chimera, as translated by Pope, and this ex- traordinary piece of ordnance : First dire chimera’s conquest was enjoin’d, A mingled monster of no mortal kind ; Behind a dragon’s fiery tail was spread, A goat’s rough body bore a lion’s bead ; Her pitchy nostrils flaky flames expire. Her gaping throat emits infernal fire. This pest he* slew. But, added to its natural beauties, this park perhaps nerer appeared in greater splendour than in the summer of 1814, when, in honor of the allied sovereigns who * Bellerophon. WALKS THROUGH LONDON* 255 visited England, the beautiful Chinese Bridge was first erected over the canal. Upon the centre of this bridge an elegant and lofty pagoda was then constructed, consisting of seven pyra- midal stories. The pagoda was illuminated with gas lights ; and brilliant fireworks, both fixed and missile. Were displayed from every division of this structure; the pagoda was consumed by accident. Various smaller temples, and other columns on the bridge, were also vividly illuminated. The canal was at the same time provided with handsomely decorated boats, and the whole margin of the lawn surrounded with booths for refreshment, open marquees with seats, & c. The Mali was illuminated all the way along with Chinese lan* thorns, the whole forming a kind of Vauxkall upon an enlarged scale. In the Green Park, the grand fire- works were displayed from a fortress or castle, the ramparts being an hundred feet square, surmounted by a round tower in the centre, about sixty feet in diameter, and rising about fifty feet above the ramparts ; whilst Hyde Park had been occupied by shews, drinking- booths, &c. like a fair, during the Naumachia, or sham fight between a number of vessels on the Serpentine river ; among others were exhibited, the celebrated manoeuvre of Admiral Nelson in breaking the enemy's line at Trafalgar. In the afternoon, the lawn in the front of Buckingham-House, was enclosed for the pur- pose of filling and sending up a balloon, which ascended about five o’clock, with Mr. Sadler, junior, in a fine style. This, and the effects of the various fire-works exhibited till a very late hour at night, may be more easily conceived than described. Nearly opposite to Henry the Seventh’s Chapel, viz. 256 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. at the distance of about thirty feet, is the parish church of St. Margaret, Westminster. This structure, ascribed to Edward the Confessor, was rebuilt in the reign of Edward the First, by the parishioners and the mer- chants of the Wool Staple, its chancel excepted, which was added by the Abbot of Westminster. It has been several times repaired; but, last of all, completely in 1803. It was then decorated with a richly-ornamented pulpit and desk, and a new organ, and the Speaker’s Chair, placed in the front of the west gallery. Among the numerous monuments here, that of Sir Walter .Raleigh merits particular attention ; however, the greatest ornament of this fabric is its fine painted window, representing the whole history of the Cruci- fixion of Christ, in a most masterly style, originally intended for Henry the Seventh’s Chapel. Round the cross are the Roman officers, and some of the Jewish rulers : at the foot are Mary Magdalen, and Mary, the wife of Cleophas; the latter stands in the front, and is represented as fainting. On the right of the cross is the Roman Centurion on horseback, who, with a lance, pierces the Saviour’s side. Behind the cross, a little to the left, Jerusalem appears in perspective : on the right is the penitent, and on the left the impe- nitent thief. On the left, in a niche, is St. George of Cappadocia, completely armed, and holding in his hands, partly unfurled, a white banner, charged with a red cross ; behind him a red dragon lies at his feet. The second figure, on the right hand, is St. Catharine, the virgin, a martyr of Alexandria, resting her left hand on a sword : at the bottom, towards the left, is a hermit holding something like a root : on the right, towards the bottom, is a wheel, the emblem of her WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 257 torture. The third figure, on the left hand, under St., George, is Henry the Seventh at his devotions, in his- royal robes, crowned with a diadem, and kneeling under a canopy of state, with a book before him. The fourth figure, on the right hand, under St. Catharine,, is that of Elizabeth, Henry’s consort, kneeling under a state-canopy, with a book before her. Above the whole is a row of six small panes, containing repre- sentations of angels attendant on the Crucifixion. On the left, in a small pane, is the moon, and on the op* posite side the sun, alluding to the preternatural dark- ness at the time of the Crucifixion. On the left of these figures, over the moon, is a white rose within a red one, alluding to the union of the houses of York and Lancaster. On the opposite side, over the sun, is a pomegranate, another allusion to the descent of these houses from the royal line of Spain. This beautiful window was originally intended as a present from the magistrates of Dort, in Holland, to Henry the Seventh* but the king dying before it tvas completed, it fell into the hands of the Abbot of Waltham, who kept it in his church till the Dissolution. To preserve it, Robert Fuller, the last abbot, sent it to New Hall, a seat of the Butlers, in Wiltshire. From this family it was pur- chased by Thomas Villars, Duke of Buckingham : his son sold it to General Monk, who caused this window to be buried under ground. Monk well knew that if it fell into the hands of the .Puritans, they would not fail to demolish so fine an effort of genius and talent; as it is said, that during these disgraceful times, they destroyed no less than eight hundred of these productions of art. After the Restoration, Monk * 2 258 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. replaced it in his chapel at New Hall. Subsequent to General Monk’s death, John Olmius, Esq. demolished this chapel, but preserved the window, in hopes of selling it for some church. After laying a long time cased up, Mr. Conyers bought it for his chapel near Epping : here it remained till his son built a new house ; and this gentleman finally selling it to the Committee appointed for repairing and beautifying St. Margaret’s, Westminster, after a lapse of nearly three hundred years, it occupies a place immediately contiguous to that for which it was originally de- signed. Great George-Street forms a very handsome avenue from Westminster Bridge to St. James’s Park. Duke- Street also, which faces the Park, with other good houses, contained one built by Judge Jefferies ; which, after being a short time in the possession of his son, was purchased by Government for the use of the Commissioners of the Admiralty, and one of the wings was converted into a Chapel of Ease to St. Margaret’s parish. Long Ditch, over which Maud, Queen to Henry the First, erected a bridge, leads to Tothill-Street and Broad Way, in which is another Chapel of Ease, called New Chapel, completed in 1636, by the bounty of Archbishop Laud. Nearly opposite Broad Way is an avenue to Queen- Square . — This contains a chapel and one of the Police offices. At the south end of James-Street, which contains a pleasant row of good houses opposite the Park, is The Westminster* -Infirmary . — This noble foundation commenced in the year 1719. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 259 Tvthill Fields, during the great plague, had some houses appointed as Pest Houses , which, standing quite detached, are still known by the appellation of the Five Chimnies. This spot is further remarkable for a number of charities, viz. The Grey Coat Hospital; the Green Coat Hospital ; Emanuel Hospital, or Lady AnnDacre’s Alms-houses; twelve alms-houses, founded by John Palmer, B. D. in 1654; besides Mrs. KifFord’s, Mr. Hill’s, Mr. Cornelius Vanden’s, a charity school in Duck- Lane, &c. &c. The prison called Tothill Fields Bridewell, in this vicinity, merited the unqua- lified commendations of the philanthropic Mr. Howard. We may add, that a part of this district, nearly as bad as the worst part of St. Giles’s, is now formed into a neat square, and one of the most spacious in London : each side consists of elegantly-constructed houses, somewhat in the cottage style. The area still serves as a play-ground to the Westminster scholars, and the square itself derives its name from their late venerable preceptor. Dr. Vincent. The new road to Vauxhall Bridge runs immediately to the rear of the west side of this square ; and since the road was constructed, a number of new houses, and even new streets, are building on each side, especially since the bridge was thrown open. Returning through James-Street, we arrive at Buck- ingham Gate, near which stood Tart Hall, built for the wife of Thomas, Earl of Arundel, in 1638. This house, in which was preserved the last remains of the Arundelian marbles, was pulled down about the year 1720. Pimlico has increased from a few houses to a con- 260 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. siderable town, having a number of handsome houses, and a chapel. At the west end of St. James's Park, fronting the Mall, stands the Queen’s Palace, which, till 1762, when his present majesty bought it, was called Buckingham - House . — This edifice, a mixture of brick and stone, has a park and a canal behind, with a good garden. The spacious court fronting St. James's Park is en- closed with iron rails, and has offices on each side sepa- rated from the house by two wings of bending piazzas and arched galleries, supported by pillars of the Tus- can, Doric, and Ionic orders. Each front of the house has Corinthian and Tuscan pilasters. On the north side of the Park is Carleton House , built by the late Mr. Holland, as the residence of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. It contains several magnificent apartments, and one of the most complete armouries in the world. The colonade fronting Pall Mall does not partake of that grandeur of style exhibited by the Adams in the colonade at Sion House, near Brentford. The front of Carleton House is evidently too low, and consequently affords but one range of spacious apartments, recently connected by large fold- ing doors, and thus opening to an enriched Gothic conservatory; but it allows of nothing more than a diminutive attic, with very small windows. The facade has a centre and two wings rusticated, without pilasters, an entablature and balustrade, which conceal the roof. The portico consists of six composite columns, with a pediment, an enriched frieze, and a tympanum, crowned with the Prince's arms; but all the windows are without pediments, except two in the wings. The gardens be- Ifieb fished ly W. Sharked/ t WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 261 hind Carlton Hous^ are very beautiful, and seem as retired as if they were in the country. The stables at the east end are of brick, and in form semicircular. The new conservatory is a rich display of what is called the florid Gothic style, seventy-two feet in length, twenty-three in breadth, and twenty feet high. Adjoining to Carlton House Gardens are those be- longing to the residence of Henry Frederick, late Duke of Cumberland, brother to His present Majesty. It was originally built for Prince Edward, Duke of York, an- other brother, but was subsequently occupied by a sub- scription club, and called The Albion Hotel. Marlborough-House was built in the reign of Queen Anne, at the expense of 40,000/. It is a large brick edifice, ornamented with stone; the first story is crowned with an attic above the cornice. A small colonade ex- tends on the side of the area next the wings, and the op- posite side is occupied by offices. The apartments within are noble and well-disposed. In the vestibule, at the entrance, is painted the Battle of Blenheim or Hochstet, in which the most remarkable scene is the taking of Marshal Tallard. The figures of the great Duke of Marlborough, Prince Eugene of Savoy, and General Cadogan, are finely executed. St. James's Palace was originally an hospital founded by some devout citizens of London, before the Con- quest, for fourteen leprous females ; this foundation being afterwards augmented by the addition of eight brethren, the hospital was rebuilt in the reign of Henry the Third. When this hospital was surrendered, with many others, during the rapacious reign of Henry the Eighth, its revenues amounted to 100/. per annum. Henry demolished most of the old fabric, and on its 262 walks through London, site founded the present palaef?, called by Stow “ a goodly manor.” Though the exterior of St. James’s is inconsiderable, it certainly is not mean. It is a brick building, and the entrance to the rooms of state is by a staircase that opens into the principal court next to Pall Mall ; at the top of this are two guard rooms, one on the left called the Queen’s, and the other the King’s guard-room. Immediately beyond the latter is the Presence Chamber, now used only as a passage to the principal rooms. The Presence Chamber opens into the centre room, called the Privy Chamber, where there is a canopy, under which His Majesty used to receive private addresses. On the right are two drawi ng-rooms, one within the other,, and at the upper end of the further one, a throne with its canopy ; here the King receives corporation addresses : the nearer room is a kind of anti-chamber, where the nobility are permitted to sit down, whilst their Majesties are present in the further room, there being stools and sofas for that pur- pose. In the grand drawing-room is a large magnificent chandelier of gilt silver, and in the grand levee-room, a very noble bed, with furniture of crimson velvet, manufactured in Spitai fields. Among the pictures in this palace are those of Jeffery Hudson, the dwarf of Henry Lord Darnley, consort of Mary Queen of Scots, and father of James the First, his hand resting on his brother Charles Stuart, Earl of Lenox, in a black gown ; the famous picture of Ma- buse of Adam and Eve, with the curious anachronisms of navels, a fountain richly carved, &c. &c. On the west side of the court-yard is the Chapel Royal, a plain contracted room, supposed to have been the same used as when belonging to the hospital ; the DnmnScJETifravia'by 7maOisfrr-0*tPa%* ■fatmfhZmden . WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 263 ceiling is divided into small painted squares. The ser- vice here is performed in the same manner as at ca- thedrals ; its establishment is a dean, usually the Bishop of London, a lord- almoner, a sub-dean, and forty-eight chaplains, who preach in their turns before the Royal family. There are also twelve gentlemen of the chapel, two organists, ten choristers, a serjeant, a yeoman, a groom of the vestry,'- &c. The other parts of this palace are very irregular in their form, consisting of several courts. Some of these have been appropriated to the use of the branches of the Royal family : others are occupied by the .King’s servants, or granted as a benefit to their occupiers. Cleveland Row. — Berkshire- House, which formerly stood here, was purchased by Charles the Second, of : one of the Earls of Berkshire, and presented by him i to that “ beautiful fury/’ Barbara, Duchess of Cleve- land. A passage leads from hence to the Green Park. The Wilderness, with the Ranger’s Lodge, the Lawn, the Water, the Walks, and the extensive prospects, render it extremely beautiful. The east side is ornamented with the houses of many of the nobility, with gardens before them. Spencer House is one of the most worthy of notice; the Park front of this mansion is ornamented to a high degree, though the pediment in it is too lofty, and has not the grace and majesty of the low Grecian pediment. The statues on the pediment, and the vases at each extremity, must be mentioned with approbation, as they are in a good style, and judiciously disposed. The interior of Spencer House is not inferior to the outside; but its chief ornament is The Library. 264 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. I WALK XI. Commencing at Charing- Cross by the Hay market throug Pall Mall, part of Piccadilly, and Hyde Park Corner return through Oxford-Street, taking in the N or t Side of the Metropolis undescribed. In the days of Charles the Second, the Haymarkk \ and Hedge-Lane, had names, but they were literal! lanes, bounded by hedges, and all beyond to the north!); east and west, was entirely country. In the fine plan! of London, published by Faithorn in 1658, the onli house that appears at the end next to Piccadilly is thiij Gaming House. Windmill-Street consisted of disjointed houses, and windmill, standing in a field on the west side; all th space occupied by the streets radiating from the Seven! Dials was, at that period, open ground. Leicester -Fields was not then built upon, but Leices ter- House was then standing. The first house wa founded by one of the Sydneys, Earls of Leicester. I was for a short time the residence of Elizabeth, daughte of James the First, the titular Queen of Bohemia, wh< died here in February 1661. This house, it has been ob served, “ was successively ihe pouting place of princes;’ the late king, when Prince of Wales, after he had quar relied with his father, lived here several years. His sor Frederick followed his example, and died here. It 1658, The Military Yard stood behind Leicester- Flouse and in the reign of Charles the Second, Major Fouber mu2 3 ^ r WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 265 kept his academy here for riding, and other exercises, till he moved to Swallow -Street, opposite to Conduit- Street, in the avenue that still retains the name of Major Foubert’s Passage. Gerard- Street derived its name from Gerard House , which belonged to the brave Charles Gerard, Earl of Macclesfield, one of the lords who presented James, Duke of York, at the King’s Bench bar, as a Popish recusant. Coventry -House stood on the site of Coventry -Street, and was the residence of Henry Coventry, Secretary of State, who died here in 1686, and this is supposed to have stood on the site of the old gaming-house before mentioned. Jermyn and St. Alban* s-Streets took their names from the gallant Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, sup- posed to have married the Queen Dowager, Henrietta Maria, after the death of Charles the First, whose spirit was observed to have been awed by her subject spouse. The Pest-House Fields, about the site of Carnaby- Market, took their name from a lazaretto, built there in the time of the dreadful plague, by Lord Craven, who remained in London the .whole time. In 1700, Old Bond-Street was built no farther than the west end of Clifford-Street. New Bond-Street was at that time an open field, called Conduit-Mead. George-Street, Hanover- Square, with its church, rose about the same time : the church was finished in 1724. In 1716 Hanover-Square and Cavendish-Square were unbuilt; but their names appear in the plans of London in 1720. Soho-Square was built in the time of Charles the Ar A 266 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Second ; and as the Duke of Monmouth lived in the centre house on the South side, on the site of which Bateman’s Buildings now stand, it was called, Mon- mouth-Square, then King’s-Square. On his death, it is said, the admirers of this unfortunate prince changed it to Soho, that being the watchword at the battle of SedgeVnoor. Having concluded the retrospect, we proceed from Charing-Cross by Spring- Gardens, where there is a Chapel of Ease to St. Martins ; thence by Hedge-Lane, or Whitcomb- Street, and Suffolk -Street, to the Hay- market. In Oxendon-Street there is a Chapel, first built as a meeting house by the famous Richard Baxter. Leicester House, in Leicester Fields, when totally de- serted by its royal possessors, became the Museum of Natural History, belonging to Sir Ashton Lever, who died in 1788. This being won by way of Lottery, by Mr. James Parkinson, and transferred by him to the Surrey side of Blackfriars-Bridge, it again experienced the most mortifying neglect, and was disposed of by public auction, in separate lots, in a sale which lasted upwards of forty days. During the year 1806, Leices- ter House was pulled down, and Leicester Place erected on its ruins ; this now forms an avenue from the Square to New Lisle- Street. At the end of Cranbourne- Street, adjoining to Leices- ter Square, Barker’s Panorama has been exhibited several years in such perfection, that to tiiany of the beholders the scenes appeared to be realized. Mr. Barker’s species of painting has not unaptly been called, “ The Perfection of Perspective.” Some of the latest views exhibited here were, the Battle of Paris WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 267 in 1814, and another of the still more celebrated and decisive Battle of Waterloo. The large house on the west side of Leicester Square was called Saville House, being the residence of that independent patriot Sir George Saville, who was many years Knight of the Shire for York. The inside of this house was destroyed by the infuriated bigots col- lected by Lord George Gordon, in 1780. Sir Joshua Reynolds also lived on the west side of this square. The celebrated Hogarth resided in the house on the east side of the square, now the Sablonier Hotel ; adjoining to which lived that eminent Surgeon, Mr. John Hunter. A part of Sir George Saville’s house, at present con- tains Miss Limvood’s exhibition of Needle Work : this novel style of picturesque needle work consists of a number of copies of the finest pictures of the English and Foreign Schools of art, possessing all the correct drawing, just colouring, and light and shade of the Original pictures from whence they are taken. The fine equestrian statue of George the First, which stands in the centre of this square, originally stood in the Park at Cannons , in Herts. Facing the top of the Haymarket, in Great Wind- Itnill-Street, is the large house formerly the residence of Dr. William Hunter. Norris- Street, in the Haymarket, leads to St. James’s Market for butchers’ meat, poultry, &c. Lower down the Haymarket are two structures for public entertainment — The King's Theatre or Opera House ; and the Little Theatre. This Theatre is opened during the summer months* The patent by which it is held was formerly granted to 268 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Samuel Foote, Esq. denominated the Aristophanes of his day ; of whom it was purchased by George Colman, Esq. and held by his son, both dramatic writers, joint- ly, with other proprietors. This Theatre contains three tiers of boxes, a pit, and two galleries. The Opera House . — As this massy pile has never been finished according to the designs of the architect, it can only be said, that with respect to its interior , it is one of the finest buildings in the metropolis. The present form of the boxes, and their ornamental beauties, create the most lively images of grandeur ; their fronts are painted in compartments, a blue ground, with broad gold frames. In the second tier are Neptunes, Nereids, Tritons, Mermaids, Dolphins, Sea Horses, &c. On the third tier the ornaments exhibit festoons and wreaths of flowers, sustained by cupids. Leopards, Lions, Griffins, &c. are the supporters of the fourth. The dome presents a sky, in which a flame-colour prevails. The Coup Peril of the whole is rich and magnificent, and the measurements of the interior of the house is within two feet of the dimensions of the great theatre at Milan. The stage is sixty feet in length from the wall to the orchestra, eighty in breadth from wall to wall, and forty-six feet across from box to box : the pit will hold eight hundred persons, and each box in the five tiers is so constructed as to hold six persons with ease, all of whom command a full view of the stage. The gallery, containing seventeen benches, holds eight hun- dred persons. The Opera usually opens for the season in January, and continues its representations on the Tuesday and Saturday of every week till June or July. In Pall-Mall, on the left side from the Opera House, WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 269 is the exhibition of the Pictures painted by Mr. West. Here is the celebrated piece, Christ Rejected; or, as it is sometimes called. The Judgment of Christ; the new Picture of Christ Healing in the Temple ; a Design of the Crucifixion, fyc. The Waterloo Museum is situated in Pall Mall, west- ward of Carlton House, and occupies the spacious premises in which Mr. Winsor, a few years since, ex- hibited his gas lights. This house was formerly a tavern of considerable note, called the Star and Garter, This Museum contains an elegant painting of Napoleon Ruonaparte in his coronation robes, by Robert Lefevre, fifteen feet by six : the likeness is accurate, fully de- picting the mind of that extraordinary character, and the drapery is surprisingly beautiful. There is also a fine painting of Joachim Murat, in the costume of Commander-in-Chief of the Cavalry, represented as receiving his military cap from a page. Another painting represents the Allies entering Paris, in 1814, through the gate of St. Denis. The Emperor Alex- ander, the King of Prussia, and Prince Schwartzen- burg, the Commander-in-Chief of the Austrian army, are represented on horseback beneath the arch, while the populace receive them with acclamations, A cloud of Cossacks appear advancing in various directions. — The same room contains a painting of the Battle of Waterloo, by a Flemish artist. The Duke of Welling- ton is represented in the foreground, with Major Freemantle on his right. The flight and destruction of the enemy is pourtrayed in a masterly manner. The Scots Greys attacking the French Cuirassiers is beyond description. The Cuirassiers* Hall, as it is a a 2 ^70 WALKS THROUGH LOtiDON. called, and the grand staircase, contain a vast number of cuirasses, helmets, sabres, muskets, and bayonets. The rest of the exhibition consists of state swords, belts, truncheons, rich dresses, and other trophies : the whole being laid out with extraordinary skill and taste, is an ornament to the metropolis, and a lasting monument of the triumph of our arms. The new pictures added here are. The Battle of Waterloo, by Coene ; The Meeting hetvfeen the Duke of Wellington and the Marquis of Anglese a after the battle; The Entrance of the Allies into Paris ; Lefevre’s Napo- leon, from the Military School ; Girodet’s Murat, from the Hall of the Marshals; Buonaparte at St. Helena ; his Miniature, by Isabey ; Marshal Ney, by the same artist; and the Magic Table at St. Cloud. The collection of trophies from the field of Waterloo has also received a considerable addition. Schomberg House, in Pall-Mall, was built by the Duke of Schomberg, during the reign of William the Third, for his town residence; after his death it fell into private hands, and was inhabited by Astley, the painter, who, dividing it into three habitations, reser- ved the centre for himself. It was then occupied by Richard Cosway, Esq. R. A., after him by the eccen- tric Dr. Graham, and here he delivered his lectures. Mr. Robert Bowyer, another occupant, collected a large gallery of paintings and engravings, by the first masters, which he named, the Historic Gallery ; but being unfortunate, the whole was disposed of by Lot- tery, in 1807. Equally so was the Shakespeare Gallery , on the other side of the street, notwithstanding all the merits- and exertions of the late Mr. Alderman Boydell. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. St. James’s Square , on the north side of Pall-Mall, is very large and beautiful; the area forms an octagon, en- closing a fine bason of water and a pedestal, surmounted by a statue of William the Third. On the east side stands Norfolk- House, in which his present Majesty, George the Third, was born. Adjoining this is London House, the town -residence of the Bishops of that see. York- Street. — The house now Wedgewood' s Ware- house, was formerly the residence of the Spanish Am- bassador; and the adjoining Chapel is now a place of worship for the people called Sivedenbourgians, or the New Jerusalem Church, from Emanuel Swedenbourg, a Swedish nobleman, the founder of this sect, and who died in London in 1772. Facing York-Street, is situated the parish Church of St. James , Westminster. — This structure, originally a Chapel of Ease, was, in the first year of James the Second, constituted a parochial Church, and the parish wholly taken out of that of St. Martin in the Fields. The walls of this church are well built of brick, with rustic quoins, facios, doors, and window-cases of stone. The roof is arched, supported by pillars of the Corin- thian order, and the door-cases of the Ionic order. The interior of the roof is divided into pannels of crocket and fret work. The galleries have neat fronts; and the door-cases, especially that facing Jermyn-Street, are highly enriched. The windows at the east end are adorned with two columns and two pilasters; the lower of the Corinthian, and the upper of the Compo- site order. The pews and pulpit are neat, and on the baptismal font, carved by Grinlin Gibbons, the Fall of Mani the Salvation of Noah, &c. are represented. The 272 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. altar-piece is very spacious, consisting of fine bolection pannels, with architrave, friese, and cornice of cedar, with a large compass pediment, under which is a carved pelican, feeding its young, between two doves ; also a noble festoon, with very large fruit, of several kinds, fine leaves, &c. all neatly done in lime wood. The organ was given by Queen Mary the Second, in the year 1691. The tablet in the porch of this church, to the memory of the facetious Tom D’Urfey, has been removed several years past. Facing St. James’s Church, in Piccadilly, is Swallow Street, a narrow avenue to Oxford Street, with a meet- ing-house, containing one of the oldest Scots’ Presby- terian congregations in London. Piccadilly is so called, from Peccadilta Hall, a sort of repository for ruffs, when there were no other houses where Sackville-Street now stands. Piccadilly was completed, as far as Berkeley- Street, in 1642. The first good house built here, was Burlington House, the noble founder of which said, he placed it there “ be- cause he was certain no one would build beyond him !” The front of this noble mansion is of stone; the circular colonade is of the Doric order, and by this the wings are connected. This house was left to the Devon- shire family, on the express condition, that it should not be demolished. The heavy screen, which conceals this beautiful front from the street, has long been regretted as a nuisance. Adjoining to Burlington- House is the Albany Hotel, first inhabited by Lord Melbourne, and exchanged wi th him by the Duke of York. When His Highness WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 273 quitted possession, the next proprietors built on the gardens, and converted the whole into chambers for the casual residence of the nobility and gentry who had not settled residences in town. The name of the Albany: was given to this house in compliment to the Prince Duke, whose second title is Duke of Albany. Here also stood the house of the Earl of Sutherland, whose advice ruined his sovereign James the Second. The present structure is the work of the late Sir William Chambers. The most prominent and interesting object in Picca- dilly is Mr. Bullock’s Egyptian Museum . This house is built in a style appropriate to the name it bears, the inclined pilasters and sides being covered with hiero- glyphics. The model is said to have been taken from the Temple of Dendera, in Upper Egypt. This museum contains curiosities, not only from Africa but from North and South America ; amphibious animals in great variety, with fishes, insects, shells, zoophytes, minerals, &c. ad infinitum, besides the Pantherion , intended to display the whole of the known quadrupeds, in a state of preservation hitherto unattempted. For this purpose the visitor is introduced through a basaltic cavern, similar to the Giant’s Causeway, or Fingal’s Cave, in the Isle of Staffa, to an Indian hut. This hut is situated in a tropical forest, in which most of the quadrupeds described by naturalists are to be seen, with models from nature of the trees, and other vegetable produc- tions of the torrid climes, remarkable for the beauty of their fruit or foliage. This museurii also contains marbles, mosaic floors, pictures, &c. and the military carriage of the late Ex-Emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte. At the back of Burlington-Gardens are several good 974 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. streets; viz. Saville*Row, Cork-Street, Old and New Burlington-Streets. At the end of the latter is Burling- ton- School, founded by the last Lady Burlington, for the maintenance, clothing and education of eighty fe- males, upon the^most liberal plan. The south end of this street is occupied by the stately mansion built by Leoni, for Gay’s patron, the Duke of Q/ueensbury, who was allowed to build and have a view into Burlington Gardens. Having been in a state of dilapidation, it was purchased by the Earl of Uxbridge, who making several improvements, gave it the name of Uxbridge House, Hence an avenue leads to Old Bond-Street, and again to Piccadilly, in which is Albemarle- Street. At the top of this is Graft on- Street, on the site of which stood Clarendon- House, built by the great Lord Clarendon. This his enemies called Dunkirk ‘House, calumniating him with having built it with the money arising from the sale of that town to the French. Here is also the Society’s House for the encourage- ment of improvements in arts and manufactures, or, The Royal Institution. The front of this house is bar- ricadoed by double windows, to prevent the entrance of cold in winter, and heat in summer. Here is a room for experimental dinners, and a kitchen fitted up upon the late Count Rumford’s plan. Adjoining this is a large workshop, in which a number of coppersmiths, braziers, &c. are employed, and over this a large room for the reception of such models of machinery as may be presented to the Institution. They have also a printing-office, &c. Opposite Albemarle-Street is St. James’s- Street, a WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 275 broad descending avenue to the Royal Palace. This street contains several subscription-houses for the re- ception of noblemen, members of parliament, &c. The front of St- James’ s-Palace next to this street appears little better than an antiquated gate-house ; and, in fact, since the Prince Regent has been so much in the habit of prolonging his excursions to Brighton, this palace seems hastening to a state of desertion. Arlington- Street forms an avenue from. St. James’s- Stree.t to Piccadilly, and contains several noblemens* houses. Opposite is Dover-Street, in which is the house appointed for the residence of the Bishops of Ely. Upon Hay Hill , according to Strype's Annals, Sir Thomas Wyatt and his insurgents were defeated in 1554, by the Royalists, in favour of Queen Mary. At the foot of Hay Hill is Berkeley- Square, and in the centre, a fine equestrian statue of His present Ma- jesty, by Wilton. The north side of this squate is. occupied by tradesmens* houses, but mbst of those on the west side are inhabited by persons of quality. At the top of Charles-Street, on this side, is John- Street Chapel. The south $ide of Berkeley-Square is occupied by the beautiful and stately structure and gardens of the late Marquis of Lansdowne ; the house, fronted with stone, was built by the Adams : the gardens are well laid out. Berkeley -Street is built on the site of Berkeley- House, a fine ancient mansion which belonged to the family of that name and title. At the corner of this street, in Piccadilly, is Devonshire House. This part of Piccadilly, as far as the turnpike, was formerly called PdrtugaU Street. Devonshire. House was the . last in the street long after 1700. The present building was constructed $76 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. according to a design by Kent, and cost 20,000/. in* eluding 1000/. presented by the third Duke of Devon- shire to the architect. The old house, according to Pennant, was frequented by Waller, Denham, and most of the wits in the days of Charles the Second. The south side of Piccadilly, to the turnpike, is bounded by the iron railing of the Green Park, and the Hanger’s house and garden. The north side is com- posed of an assemblage of mansions belonging to the nobility, some shops of tradesmen, livery stables, &c. On this side are also several good streets ; Stratton- Street, Bolton -Street, and Clarges-Street, built on the site of Clarges House, leading to May Fair. This spot was originally called Brook Field, and when the ancient fair, granted by Edward the First to St. James’s Hospital, on that saint’s eve, ceased with the dissolution of most of the religious houses, this fair was removed to Brook Field, and here assumed the name of May Fair, from its being held on the first days of that month. In process of time the resort of low company was pro- ductive of such disorders, that it was presented in 1708 by the grand jury of Westminster, and abolished for that time ; however, having revived, it used to be covered with booths, temporary theatres, and in fact every enticement to low pleasures, particularly duck- hunting in a pond, most of which continued till the fair received its final dissolution about 1764, but not till after a peace-officer had been killed in endeavouring to quell a disturbance. The principal exhibitions of this once famous place were mostly on an open space upon which May Fair Chapel and Curzon -Street stood. Relative to this once famous spot, the scene of much broad English humour, we are indebted to Mr. J. Car- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 277 ter, an eminent antiquary, who, but a few months ago, through the medium of the Gentleman’s Magazine, communicated the following information : — tf Fifty years have passed away since this place of amusement was at its height of attraction : the spot where the fair was held still retains the name of May- Fair, and exists in much the same state as at the above period; for instance, ShepherdVMarket, and houses surrounding it on the North and East sides, with White- Horse-street, Shepherd’s-court, Sun-court, Market- court. Westwards an open space extending to Ty- I burn (now Park) Lane, since built upon in Chapel- Street, Shepherd’s-Street, Market-Street, Hertford- Street, &c. Southwards the noted Ducking Pond, house, land gardens, since built upon, in a large Riding School, Carrington-Street, the residence of the noted Kitty Fisher, &c. The Market-house consisted of two stories ; first story, a long and cross aisle for butchers* shops, ex- Iternally, other shops connected with culinary purposes ; Isecond story, used as a Theatre at fair time, for dra- matic performances. My recollection serves to raise before me the representation of the Revenge, in which the only object left on remembrance is the “ black man/* Zanga. Below, the butchers gave place to toy- men and gingerbread-bakers. At present the upper story is unfloored, the lower nearly deserted by the butchers, and their shops occupied by needy ped ling dealers in small wares ; in truth, a most deplorable contrast to what once was such a point of allurement. In the areas encompassing the market building were booths for jugglers, prize-fighters, both at cudgels and • back-sword, boxing-matches, and wild beasts. The 278 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. sports not under cover were mountebanks, fire-eaters, ass racing 1 , sausage tables, dice ditto, up-and-dovvns, merry-go-round^ bull-baiting, grinning for a hat, run- ning fora shift, hasty pudding eaters, eel divers, and an infinite variety of other similar pastimes.” Down-Street, Hamilton- Street, and Park-Street are the only avenues of any consequence till we arrive at Hy de-Park Corner, one of the principal entrances of London from the western counties. The mass of build- ings on the right side of the street, containing Apsley- House, &c. erected from the designs of the Adams, can-, not fail of impressing strangers with an elevated idea of the opulence and splendour of the metropolis. Park-Lane was called Tybourn Lane till its more fashionable inhabitants changed its name. Facing Stanhope -Street, in this direction, is Chesterfield House, built by the celebrated Earl Of Chesterfield; the stone colonades leading from the house to. the wings, are very beautiful ; the stair-case belonged to the vast mansion of the Duke of Chandos, at Cannons. Grosvenor- Square is entirely surrounded with mag- nificent houses, m&ny of the fronts being of stone, and others of rubbed brick, with quoins, facios, windows, and door-cases of stone ; and some are. adorned with stone columns of the various orders. The centre is a spacious garden, ornamented with a gilt equestrian statue of King George the First. Upper Brook- Street is a very fine avenue, and hast long been inhabited by noble and opulent families. Tybourn Turnpike is another considerable entrance to the metropolis, from the great western road. The view over Hyde-Park to the Surrey hills on the south. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 279 over Paddington to Harrow on the north-west, and the extent of prospect down Oxford-Street, constitute altogether a very beautiful avenue. Oxford-Street extends about one mile from east to west, and looks into six of the principal squares — Soho, Hanover, and Grosvenor-Squares on the south ; Cavendish, Manchester, and Portman-Squares, on the north. Portman- Square is next in beauty, as it is next in dimensions, to Grosvenor-Square. It is built with more regularity, but the uniformity of the houses, and the small projection of the cornices, are not favour- able to grandeur and picturesque effect. This square, begun in 1764, was nearly twenty years before it was completed. Manchester- Square contains the residence of the Marquis of Hertford, originally inhabited by the Duke of Manchester, and afterwards by a Spanish ambas- sador, who erected a small chapel, in Spanish Place , on the east side of his mansion, from designs by Bonomi , which, for its classic purity of style, is admired by all lovers of architecture. Cavendish-Square contains, in the centre of its en- closure, an equestrian statue of William, Duke of Cum- berland, constructed, in 1770, at the expense of Lieut.- Gen. William Strode. Pursuing the route from Manchester-Square, we come to High-Street, Mary hone , in which is situated the parish church of St. Mary -at -Bourn, vulgarly called St. Mary-la-Bonne. The foundation of the old church here was laid bj^ Bishop Braybroke, about the year 1400, and this structure continued till 1741. It was then 280 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. found necessary to take it down, on account of its ruinous state, when another diminutive and disgraceful brick building rose in its room ; but for this result of parsimony a noble atonement is now made, in the new church erected a little to the northward of the old one. This is built in the Corinthian style of architecture, and is extremely spacious. Opposite the church stood the ancient manor-house, pulled down in 1791 ; behind this mansion was a tavern and bowling-green, much frequented by persons of rank, during the reign of Queen Anne ; but it after- wards grew into such disrepute, that Gay, in his Beg- gar’s Opera, made it one of the scenes of Macheath’s debauches. The gardens were afterwards opened for public breakfasts, and other entertainments, about 1740, and continued to be a place of public resort, similar to the present Vauxhali, till 1777, when the whole was let, and the site since occupied by the stately houses of Devonshire-Place. Returning to Oxford-Street through Marybone-Lane, we come to Stratford-Place , a handsome pile of build- ings. New Bond-Street is still esteemed an avenue of fashionable resort; the shops here are much improved within a few years past; but the communications from it to the several squares, and its length, are its principal advantages. In Conduit- Street is Trinity Chapel , which being sold a few years ago to Mr. Robson, a bookseller in Bond- Street, he modernized the building with a new front, and fitted up the interior with great neatness and pro- priety. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 281 On the east side of George-Street is the parish church of St. George, Hanover -Square, a noble stone building. The west front is truly grand, being supported by six pillars of the Corinthian order, an entablature, and a handsome pediment, on the apex of which is a base, apparently as if intended to support a statue : and behind the columns are pilasters, to support the archi- trave ; the cornice of the entablature extends round the north side and the east end, which is wrought in bold rustic; but the south side, being almost hid, is quite plain. Mr. Malton observes, 1 “ The portico is inferior in majesty to that of St. Martin’s in the Fields, but is superior to every other and he recommends an ac- curate examination and measurement of these two porticos as an advantageous study to a young architect ; and remarks, that geometrical drawings, placing the dimensions of these porticos in a comparative view, would be a valuable addition to his library. The steeple of this church, though it possesses few ornaments, is noble and majestic, consisting of a tower rising from the roof. It is of an octagon shape, having coupled columns at the four sides of the Corinthian order, and large windows at the four fronts : on the top of the entablature, above the columns, are vases coupled. The whole is crbwned with an elegant dome, and a small turret, surmounted by a ball and vane of copper gilt, about 100 feet high. The interior of this churcTids very handsome, being supported by eight pillars of the Corinthian order, raised upon pedestals ; a band of ornamented scroll-work extends from column to column; the intermediate spaces are filled with sunk pannels. Here is a fine painting, supposed by Sir James ii b'2 282 WALKS THROUGH LONDON, Thornhill. The church is pewed with oak, and wain- scotted eight feet high. One, and sometimes both the churchwardens of this parish are usually persons of nobility. Hanover- Square, built soon after the accession of the present Royal family, as well as George-Street, exhibits many examples of the German style of architecture in private houses. On the east side are The Concert Rooms, originally opened under the conduct of Messrs. Harrison and Knyvett. Mr. Ralph observes, that " the view down George-Street, from the upper end of the square, is one of the most entertaining in this whole city ; the sides of the square, the area in the middle, the breaks of building that form the entrance of the vista, the vista itself; but above all, the beautiful projection of the portico of St. George's Church, are all circumstances that unite in beauty, and render the scene perfect.” Mr. Malton says, “ This view has more the air of an Italian scene than any other in London.” Harewood-House, on the north side of the square, was built by Messrs. Adam for the late Duke of Roxburgh, but purchased afterwards by Lord Harewood. Crossing Oxford- Street, Holles-Street leads to Caven- dish-Square, and hence to Harley -Street, whence Mans- field-Street forms an avenue to Portland-Place. This is one of the most regular and spacious streets in the world ; it is 125 feet wide, terminated at the south end by Foley House, and at the north end by an open railing looking over the fields towards the New Road. The ample width of the foot-pavement, the purity of the air, and the prospect of the rich and elevated villages of Hampstead and Highgate, render Portland-Place a most agreeable summer promenade. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 283 Returning by Portland Chapd through Ed ward-Street and Bolsover-Street, we arrive nearly facing King-Street, in which is King- Street Chapel, first built of wood by Dr. Tennison, and other well-disposed persons. In 1703 it was handsomely rebuilt of brick, and is neatly adorned in the interior. Through Major FouberPs Passage is a way to Great Marlborough- Street and Poland-Street, leading to Ox- ford-Street. Here is situated The Pantheon, a noble structure, originally built in the best style, and orna- mented with the richest embellishments, for the enter- tainment of the nobility, in the performance of musical pieces, masquerades, balls, &c. The elegant front and portico still remain, though the interior, in 1792, was entirely destroyed by fire. Having lost its licence, it has now been shut up a considerable time. On the north side of Oxford- Road, at the end of BernerVStreet, is The Middlesex Hospital . At the back of this hospital, in Cleveland- Street, is Fitzroy~ Square, still unfinished, though begun several years since. The houses are faced with stone, and have a greater portion of architectural ornament than those of any other square in the metropolis. They were de* signed by Messrs. Adams. Grafton- Street leads to Tottenham-Court-Road, on the west side of which is a spacious uncouth chapel, built by the Rev. George Whitfield in 1756. Newman- Street, Oxford- Road, is remarkable for having been the residence of several eminent artists. Nearly opposite Newman-Street is Dean- Street, Soho v leading to the parish church of St. Anne , Soho, finished in the year 1686, and dedicated to St. Anne, in complU 284 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. men! to the Princess Anne of Denmark. The former Steeple was almost the only specimen of Danish archi- tecture in London ; but the church having been repaired a few years since, the steeple, which has been entirely rebuilt, at present exhibits, a mass of absurdity peculiar to itself. To make the deviation from all others more ridiculous, within a few feet from the summit is dis- played a copper globe, on the four sides of which are the clock dials, which being supported by iron bars, has been not unaptly compared to a gypsy's, iron pot prepared for boiling. Soho-Square. — In the centre of this square is a statue of James the Second) at the feet of which are figures representing the rivers. Thames,. Trent, Severn, and Humber. Here is the residence of Sir Joseph Banks, and the house which formerly belonged to the Earls of Carlisle, afterwards a place of public resort for balls, mas- querades, &c. under Madame Corneilly. The grand saloon of this house was purchased and converted to a Roman Catholic chapel, under the name of St. Patrick's chapel. Soho-Square at this time contains the most celebrated Bazaar in the Metropolis, and the first of this kind, opened by Mr. Trotter in 1815. These premises, ori- ginally used by the Storekeeper- General , are of very great extent-r-from the square to DeOn- Street on one hand, and on the other to Oxford -Street, consisting of several rooms conveniently filled up with mahogany counters, and comfortably lighted and warmed, will have another large room added early in 1817. The walls of the rooms are hung with red cloth, with large mirrors at the ends. To the excellent regulations of this singular establishment, it is impossible to do justice in WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 285 our narrow limits. We can only add, that a kitchen here is furnished with dining-tables fifty feet in length, cooking apparatus, and a stove on a singular principle. A man and woman cook dress victuals, which are dis- posed of, as in a cook shop, to such persons belonging to it who choose to partake of them. We pass the intervening space eastward, to Russell Square and the British Museum. Montague House, which contains this invaluable treasure, is situated in Great Russell-Street, and was built on a French model by the first Duke of Montague. The stair-case and ceilings were painted by Rousseau and La Fosse. This building has, for many years past, been appropriated to the reception of The British Museum . The entrance to the vestibule, on the west side, is under tall arches, and leads to the various rooms for studying and copying. The paintings on the stair-case represent Caesar and his military retinue, attended by chiefs of provinces which he had conquered. In a compartment are the feasts and sacrifices of Bacchus ; in another, the Rivers Nile and Tyber are emblematically represented. The ceil- ing exhibits the story of Phaeton, who, with all the ar- dour of youth, is driving the sun's chariot, accompanied by the hours, represented as females. In the first room this story is completed on the ceiling. Over the north door, leading to the saloon, is a fine portrait of Sir Wil- liam Hamilton, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The adjoin- ing room, proceeding northward, was the reading- room till the winter of 1803, when not being deemed sufficiently light, the appendages for study and research were transferred to the next room north, which is sur- rounded by shelves of books, secured by wire; it has a vaulted ceiling, a handsome cornice and a large marble 286 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. chimney-piece, four windows, and several portraits on the walls. The first room on the first floor is ornamented with real fluted composite pillars, in pairs, which have an elegant carved entablature and festoons between the Capitals. Over the doors are medallions, surrounded by sphynxes and cherubim dropping flowers. The ceiling is semi-oval, and richly painted, with Jupiter hurling his lightning at Phaeton. In the room for the Cottonian and king’s manuscripts is an original copy of Magna Charta, enclosed in a glass frame, with a fragment of the seal, totally defaced. In consequence of the paleness of the ink, and the increasing illegibility of the manuscript, the trustees permitted Mr. J. Pine to engrave a fac simile of the perfect charter, surrounded by the arms of the twenty-five barons who witnessed the king’s act. It is impossible to give a detail of the various articles with which this Museum is so amply supplied. Among those in the hall are to be found enormous skulls and tusks of elephants, a prodigious ram, warlike trophies taken from the French army in Egypt, a Roman tomb, about three feet long and eighteen inches deep, a: cu- rious wooden chest, an Indian canoe, many Roman pigs of lead, with inscriptions ; a fine specimen of petrified wood; a model, in wood, of Blackfriars’-bridge, and another of an Indian carriage. Against the side of the stair-case are many Grecian and Roman inscrip- tions, and upon the stairs, antique fountains, a model of a first-rate man of war ready to launch, her tender, a large marble foot, &e. Sir William Hamilton’s collec- tion is rich in ancient armour, jars, vessels of stone and wood, urns, asbestos, &c. &c. In the second room are some curious mummies, pictures, medallions, specimens WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 287 of cut paper, vases of flowers, & c. &c. The Otaheite and South Sea rooms abound in curiosities, natural and artificial, from those parts of the world. Other rooms contain eases of minerals, fossils, shells, putrefactions, reptiles, & c. the spoils of the Egyptian campaign ; baths; coffins, fragments of columns, and Roman statuary. But a volume would not contain a description of every article of curiosity, utility, and interest, in this vast col- lection, which has lately received the addition of the Elgin marbles. In the bird-room are some curious nests, and among the birds the Egyptian Ibis, and several varieties of the bird of Paradise, the Ameiican humming-bird, &c. In the great hall, the most curious articles are the Egyptian tombs, &c. covered with hieroglyphics. Formerly persons wishing to view this national de- pository of curiosities were required to leave their names, and attend at a fixed hour on some other day appointed, when they were hurried through the rooms without respect to their taste, object, or curiosity; but now, any decently dressed person may, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, (Christmas, Easter, and Whit- sun weeks, with the months of August and September excepted), between the hours of ten and four, obtain free admission, without fee or delay, on simply wTiting his or her name and address in a book, and may pass away as many hours as is agreeable, in viewing and studying this immense and valuable collection. An ele- gant synopsis of the contents of the entire Museum, consisting of 150 pages, is sold at the door for two shil- lings for those who may choose to purchase, and this serves as a guide to the inspection of every thing there. 288 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. The Sicilian and Cottonian collections deposited there have often been described ; but the Museum has, within these five years, been enriched by various novelties of matchless interest, above all, the Egyptian Antiquities, acquired by the capitulation of Alexandria, 1801 ; among which is the famous rosetta stone, containing the - triple inscription, the supposed sarcophagus of Alexander, and many fragments of sculpture, coeval with the earliest periods of Egyptian history. Here are also arranged, with the most elegant taste, the large collection of Greek and Roman statues, and other sculp- tured marbles, formed by the late Charles Townley, Esq. and recently purchased by parliament for 20,000/. ; in number, 313. But the most recent addition is the splendid and perfect collection of minerals, formed by the late Charles Greville, purchased by Parliament for 13,727/. : the whole are disposed in cabinets, containing 550 drawers, while specimens of the drawers are ex- hibited in glazed compartments over them. Besides these natural objects, the literary additions made within these few years are very considerable.: thus the Hargrave library of valuable law books, which cost 4925/. ; the Lansdowne manuscripts; Hallied’s Persian andShanscrit manuscripts; 500 volumes of curious tracts, collected by the late Dr. Lettsom; TyssenVSaxon coins; eighty -four volumes of scarce classics, belonging to Dr. Bentley, with Roberts’s, series- of the coins of the realm, from the con- quest to the present time;; and for which many of the best patrons of literature, nearly .connected with this national establishment, have considerable claims upon Die gratitude of the country. Eor the Elgin marbles, or the Athenian sculptures, WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 289 two spacious rooms were built, in 1816, on the ground- floor, adjoining the Townley and Egyptian galleries. The smallest room contains the spirited sculptures recently dug up at Phygalia, together with correct casts of statuary, the originals of which still adorn Athens. On the ground-floor of the other room are displayed the Athenian marbles or sculptures, consist- ing of several statues, as the Theseus , &c. &c. ; and at the height of six feet from the floor, the Friezes ; and a few feet higher, the Metopes : many of these being the work of Phidias, are extremely interesting. United to the Townley and other collections, the suite of rooms here exhibit the finest display of the art of sculpture in the world. The trustees of the Museum have recently purchased Colonel Montague’s complete collection of Zoology, as formed by him in Devonshire, and which is also in train for being arranged and opened to public inspection. The wood cut subjoined, is a copy of the representa- tion of the head of a Triton, on each side of which is a Cupid riding on a dolphin. This is J\’o. 5 of the scuId- tures in the first room of the Department of Antiqu ities. 290 WALKS THROUGH LONDON* Russell- Square, is considerably larger than any other in London, Lincoln’s- In n-Fields excepted. The south side is graced by a pedestrian statue, in bronze, of the late Duke of Bedford, by Mr. Westmacott : his grace reposes one arm on a plough ; the left hand holds the gifts of Ceres. Children playing round the feet of the statue, personify the four seasons. To the four corners bulls’ heads are attached, in a very high relief; the cavity beneath the upper mouldings has heads of cattle in recumbent postures. On the carved sides are rural subjects in basso relievo : the first is the preparation for the ploughman’s dinner; his wife, on her knees, attends the culinary department ; a youth is also repre- sented sounding a horn ; two rustics and a team of oxen complete the group. The second composition is made up of reapers and gleaners ; a young woman in the centre is delineated with the agreeable features and general comeliness of a village favourite. These enrichments, the four seasons, and the statue of the Duke, are cast in bronze, and are very highly finished. The pedestal is of Scotch granite ; and with the superstructure, from the level of the ground to the summit of the monument, measures twenty -seven feet. The principal figure is nine feet high. The only in- scription in front is, “ Francis, Duke of Bedford; erected 1809.” The elegant building near the corner of Great Coram-Street is devoted to The Russell Institution ; it has a handsome portico with four pillars. The Insti- tution is now appropriated to the formation of a library and lectures on philosophical and scientific subjects. In Tavistock-Street is Tavistock Chapel , a modern imitation of Gothic architecture ; the interior is spa- Ji iffl&riiedl/y WCL zrfceJSewJZrr.d Street JlfartSi i.jdi’/- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 29 i cious, but rather gloomy. Hence by Southampton Rom is an avenue to Bloomsbury -Square, the north side of which is embellished with a statue of the late Right Hon. Charles James Fox. The work consists simply of a statue of colossal dimensions, being to a scale of nine feet in height, executed in bronze, and elevated upon a pedestal of granite, surmounting a spacious base, formed of several gradations : the whole is about seventeen feet in height. Dignity and repose appear to have been the leading objects of the artist's ideas; he has adopted a sitting position, and habited the statue in the consular robe, the ample folds of , which, passing over the body, and falling from the seat, give breadth and effect to the whole. The right arm is extended, the hand supporting Magna Charta ; the left is in repose. The head is in- clined rather forward, expressive of attention, firmness, and complacency : the likeness of Mr. Fox is perfect and striking. The inscription, which is in letters of bronze, is, “ Charles James Fox, erected m.dccc.xvi.” This statue, and the statue of the late Duke of Bedford, by the same artist (Westmacott), at the other extremity of Bedford-Place, form two grand and beautiful orna- ments of this metropolis. Queen-Street leads to Hart-Street, in which is the parish church of St. George , Bloomsbury, distinguished by the statue of George the First at the top of its spire. The portico, which is inferior to St. Martins, is cer- tainly magnificent. The inside of the church is conve- nient, but has no claim to the elegance which might be expected from its grand approach. Returning to Holborn, an avenue leads to Great Queen-Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields. Here is Freemasons* Hall and Tavern, the first built in the purest style of 292 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. masonry, and appropriately decorated. The grand lodges are held here, and concerts, &c. sometimes per- formed. Upon the site of Queen-Street Chapel, in this street, a very spacious building is now erected for a congre- gation of Mr. Wesley's persuasion. On the north side of Holborn is an avenue to Red Lion-Square , built on the site of Red Lion Fields; this square has been considerably improved since the gloomy obelisk in the centre has been removed. Several good streets form a communication with Queen-Square, a handsome area, surrounded by good houses; in the centre is an extensive garden with a statue of Queen Charlotte. On the west side is the parish church of St. George the Martyr, a plain brick building, well enlightened ; the interior is of the com- posite order, with beautiful enrichments, and an organ. In Great Ormond- Street, on the site of Powis-Place, stood Powis-House, built by the Marquis of Powis, in the reign of Charles the Second. Lamb's- Conduit- Street is so denominated from a re- servoir, built by Mr. Lamb, and leads to The Found- ling-Hospital, a brick edifice, composed of two wings, in a plain regular manner ; these are ornamented by piazzas. The Chapel forms a centre, joined to the wings by arches. Over the altar is a fine painting, the “ Wise Men's Offering’,” by Cazali. Here are also several beautiful paintings by Hogarth and other emi- nent masters. From Bedford-Row, Harpur-Street, and Red Lion- Street, we return to High- Holborn , formerly a pleasant suburb, where the nobility and gentry had country lodgings. WALKS THROUGH LONDON* 293 Broivnlow- Street is built on the site of a house be- longing to Sir William Brownlow. Wm'wicJc-Court occupies the ground of a mansion, the property of the Earls of Warwick. Gray’s Inn has been previously described. Stafford’s- Almshouses, in Gray’s Inn Lane, were erected in 1633, by Alexander Stafford, Esq. A little further northward is Elm-Street, leading to Mount Pleasant, and The House of Correction for the County of Middlesex .— The fine gate, the principal em trance, is of Portland stone, contrived in a massy style, with appendages of fetters, &c. &c. as represented in the wood cut. c c 3 294 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. This structure is on a level with Gray's Inn Lane * about six feet lower than Meux's Brewhouse, and as high as the roofs of many houses in the space, between Gray's Inn Lane and Coppice-Row. The whole building is of brick and stone, surrounded by a high wall and buttresses. In Spa Fields is Northampton , or Spa Fields Chapel , previously to 1779 a tea-house, but at length pur- chased as a Methodist chapel, by the late Countess of Huntingdon ; and the large garden being converted into a burial ground, added to the danger and incon- venience of numerous inhumations in the populous parts of a large city. Rosoman's Row leads to Clerkemvell Close . — In this place was anciently a nunnery ; its remains may still be traced in the walls of an avenue leading northward from St. James’s Street to Short’s Buildings. This priory, founded by Jordan Brisset, for Black Nuns, about the year 1100, continued till it was suppressed by Henry the Eighth, about the year 1539, The site of this building soon after becoming the inheritance of Sir William Cavendish, who was created Duke of Newcastle, he erected a spacious brick edifice north of the church, and east of the Close, long known by the name of Newcastle-House. Previous to its being taken down, about thirty years ago, to make room for the row of buildings called Newcastle Place, it had been occupied by Mr. Gomm, a cabinet-maker, &c. A large house, nearly opposite, at present occupied by Mr. Bullard, is said to have been the residence of Colonel Titus, and the place of conference between Cromwell, Ireton, and other republicans. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 295 Proceeding to the Spa Fields, we come to Sadler’s Wells . — This summer theatre, first opened by Mr. Sadler, in 1683, is situated in a very pleasant spot by the side of the New River, north-east of the Spa Field. The present building, wholly of brick, was erected in 1765, and has since undergone many alterations, but appears at present as represented in the subjoined wood-cut. Under the excellent management of Mr. Charles Dibdin, the performances here have been improved beyond any precedent in places of this description. The inside of this house has been lately rebuilt at the expence of 1500/. in a very splendid style, in a neat semi-circle ; and the Aquatic exhibitions pro- duce a very striking effect. Returning to Rosoman-Street, in Bridewell Walk, we pass the site of the Quaker’s Workhouse, afterwards the exercise ground of the Clerkenwell volunteers : an 296 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. immense building is erecting as an addition to, or rather a substitute for, the New Prison, lately found inadequate to the purpose, and falling to decay. That now rearing is principally of brick; and, it is said, will contain a chapel, a school, and an infirmary. Returning to the southward, we observe the church of St. James, Clerkenwell . — The old church, partly that of the nunnery, becoming very ruinous, was pulled down, and the first stone of the present fabric laid in December, 1788. The new church being finished, was consecrated on the 10th of July, 1792, by Dr. Beilby Porteus, Bishop of London. The exterior is very plain, of brick and stone; and on the south side are two wings, which project but a short way ; within these are large entrances of the Doric order; over which are large arched windows, with quoins at the corners, a cornice and balustrade. The east end is finished with a pediment; this and the north side is nearly enclosed by houses. The tower of the steeple, at the west end, is of the Tuscan order, crowned by balustrades and vases. The lantern is octagon ; and a sexagon obelisk, placed on balls with a vane, terminates the whole. Within the tower are eight musical bells and a clock. The inside of this church is remarkably plain, without pillars, and with a flat ceiling. The altar-piece is under a blank Vene- tian window. In the old church were monuments to several eminent persons; among them the Countess Dowager of Exeter, who died in 1653, several of the noble family of Booth, Lords Delamere, and that of the learned antiquary, Mr. John Weever, author of The Funeral Monuments. On the north side of the _ ■ ! WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 297 chancel was a very large and curious old marble tomb of the Gothic order, the middle part resting on five twisted marble columns, in appearance like a small cloister, where laid the figure of Sir William Weston, carved in stone, in his shroud. The upper part of the tomb was supported by two fine columns, each counter twisted in basso relievo; and in the middle between the columns appeared these words upon a brass plate: Spes non me fallat quam in te semper habebam, Virgo da facilem vot. natum pum. atque indicem. A grave stone, w 7 ith effigies in brass, and another Latin inscription to the memory of Isabella Sackville, the last Prioress, was likewise in the old church, ex- pressing that she was Prioress at the time of the Disso- lution ; that she died in the twelfth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, &c. In this fabric was also interred Dr. John Bell, Bishop of Worcester, 1543, and of the celebrated Bishop Burnet and his family. This prelate was an inhabitant of St. John's Square. Sir William Wood, a great archer, and the person who probably gave name to Wood’s Close, now Northampton- Street, in this parish, had an epitaph against the south wall of the old church. In 1791, this monument was restored by the Toxopholite Society of London. On the west side of Clerkenwell Green is situated Th.e Sessions-House for the County of Middlesex. — This structure was built in the place of one that stood facing the end of St. John’s-Street, near Smithfield, and which being built by Sir Baptist Hicks, in 1612, bore the appel- lation of Hicks’s Hall. The present structure on the Green 298 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. rose about 1778. The front is of stone, with a rustic basement ; four Ionic pillars, and two pilasters, support an architrave, frieze, and cornice, with a pediment above the pillars ; the windows are alternately arched or flat. Over that, in the centre, is a medallion of George the Third ; the spaces over the others are filled with the implements of justice : the tympanum con- tains the arms of the county, and the roof is termi- nated by a dome* At the lower end of Clerkenwell Green, in Ray- Street, opposite Mutton -Lane, is the pitiable remains of the celebrated fountain, denominated Clerks, or Clerkenwell, so called from the parish clerks of the City of London, who formerly met there annually to perform Sacred Dramas ; and which, in those unen- lightened times, were frequently attended by the nobility, as well as the Lord Mayor and citizens of Lon- don. The nunnery, church, and parish, are supposed to have derived their names from this well. The only memorial upon the spot is an inscription upon a dimU nutive pump, erected in a small recess in the street. Returning up Clerkenwell Green, a passage by the Charity-School leads to St. John’s Square, formerly the site of the House, or Hospital of St. John of Jeru- salem, founded by Jordan Brisset, who, for that end, purchased of the prioress and nuns of Clerkenwell, ten acres of land, for which he gave them twenty in his lordship of Willinghale, in Kent. The hospital was erected about the year 1110 ; but the church was not dedicated to St. John the Baptist till the year 1 185. By the profuse liberality of bigots and enthusiasts, this foundation became the chief seat in England be- longing to the Knights Hospitallers; and such was WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 299 their credit and opulence, that their prior was esteemed the first baron in the kingdom ; but such was the antipathy of the populace to these imperious knights, that the rebels of Kent and Essex, under Wat Tyler, burnt this stately edifice. However, it was afterwards rebuilt more magnificently than before, and continued upon its former system, till entirely suppressed by Henry the Eighth, in the year 1541. St. John's Square is of an oblong form, and chiefly consists of two rows of good houses. It was entered by two gates, north and south, both of which bore evident marks of antiquity ; the largest and most remarkable is that to the south, still called St. John’s Gate. It has a fine lofty Gothic arch, and on each side over it were formerly inscrip- tions, now obliterated. The other gate, leading to Aylesbury-Street, though lofty, was considerably nar- 1 rower than this, being without posterns, and was taken down about thirty-six years ago. The former of these gates, with a single buttress of the old building in | Jerusalem Court, leading to St. John's Street, are all jthe frail memorials left of this magnificent priory. The ■ site of its garden, upon a part of which Red Lion-Street I was built in 1719, was till then occupied by mean I cottages and gardens, and among these a small cow- farm and milk-house stood near George’s Court. The north-east corner of St. John’s Square is occu- pied by the parish church of St. John , Clerkemvell . — • It seems, that after the demolition of the priory, the choir passed by various deeds to several tenants. About 1706, the estate came into the hands of Samuel JYIit- chel. Esq. who afterwards erected lied Lion- Street and other buildings in this neighbourhood. This gentle- man enlarged and repaired the chapel, built the west 300 Walks through londom. front, and roofed the whole fabric, which he sold, in 1723, to the commissioners for building fifty new churches. The west front of this church has still the appearance of a Chapel of Ease, notwithstanding- its cupola has been renewed and considerably elevated within a few years past; but the eastern extremity retains much of its ancient appearance, particularly the windows. The interior is plain and neat, and has the appearance of a Doric building. Here is a good organ. Through Albemarle* Street, across St. John’s Street, along Sutton-Street and Wilderness Row, we proceed to Old-Street, in which, nearly opposite Whitecross- Street, stands the church of St. Luke, Middlesex, one of the fifty new churches finished in 1732, and conse- crated on St. Luke’s day, the next year. The building is well enlightened with two rows of windows. In the centre of the west front is the entrance, adorned with coupled Doric pilasters : over these is a round window, and on each side a small tower covered with a dome, and ornamented with two windows in front. The tower of the church is carried up square, and behind it the roof of the church forms to the west a kind of pedi- ment, broken by the rise of the tower, to which it joins on each side. The uppermost stage of this dimi- nishes very considerably ; and the tower, which is the base of an obelisk, supports on each side a dial. From hence rises, as a steeple, a fluted obelisk, reaching to a great height, diminishing slowly, and being of a con- siderable thickness towards the top ; the whole is ter- minated by a ball and a vane. The great arch of the interior is semi-oval, w-ith plain pannels : the side aisles are also arched and supported by eight Ionic Walks through London. 301 pillars, four pilasters and entablature. The altar-piece is Doric, under a Venetian window ; and the pulpit and its sounding 1 board are supported by Corinthian pillars. The organ was the gift of Mr. Buckley, an eminent brewer in Old-Street. Nearly opposite to this church, on the south side of the street, is Golden-Lane . — An avenue, running be- tween this and Whitecross-Street, named Play-house Yard, a contemptible miniature of Rag Fair, is built upon the site of the Fortune Play-house, founded by Alleyn, the Comedian. The front of the old house, in Golden Lane, which is depicted in the wood- cut, with various raised figures in front, is by some supposed to have been a nursery for the children of Henry the Seventh, and by others, to have been a tavern. Old-Street- Square is mostly taken down, and a new one, now called Bartholomew- Square, with an en- D D 302 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. closed area in the centre, is nearly erected in its place. In Pest-House Row is The French Hospital , erected in 1717. This foundation is plentifully supplied, and is solely for the benefit of poor French Protestants, in- cluding even lunatics. Its immense garden, which extended to Ratcliff-Row on the north, and to the back of Ironmonger-Row westward, has been covered with several new streets since the year 1804, where num- bers of the houses unlet or unfinished, are hastening to a state of ruin. Fest~ House Row contains the almshouses founded by George Palyn, citizen and girdler, for six poor members ; nearly opposite is another set of almshouses* which rose, in 1616, from the bounty of Edward Al- leyn, founder of Dulwich College. Here are ten poor men and women. St. Luke's Hospital is appropriated for the reception of lunatics. The building is of brick and stone. The centre and ends project a little, are carried higher than the two parts which connect them together, and are distinguished also by a little more decoration of stone. In the front is a broad space, inclosed with a wall, which is relieved by a portico in the centre. The en- trance is by a flight of steps, under a cover, supported by columns. This hospital, it will appear, is not only better con- structed, but better conducted than some others in the metropolis, which have been the merited objects of parliamentary investigation, from which it appears that though the exposure of the patients at Bethlem, &c. used to be attended with some abuses, even these were less culpable than others which have been since detected and exposed. A Btblished by W Cfarhstfeir£cmZ Street Jprzi&7. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 303 - At the corner of the City Road, where it is crossed fey Old-Street, is situated The City of London Lying- In Hospital. This building consists of a centre and f two wings, the latter projecting a little from the main building. In the front of the centre is a very neat but plain pediment, and in this part of the building a chapel, the top of which is crowned with a light open turret, terminated by a vane. Old -Street-Road was formerly part of a Roman road from Colchester, &c. To the south of the Lying-In Hospital lies Moorields. The Artillery Ground is a spacious enclosure, which has preserved the name it bears from having been the place of exercise for the Artillery Company. Opposite Runhill Fields Burial Ground is a very handsome chapel, built by the late Rev. John Wesley , in the place of another upon Windmill-Hill, called the Old Foundery, having been used as late as 1716 for casting cannon. It was in this foundery St. Paul’s great bell was re-cast. Further on in the street formerly called Tabernacle Walk , on account of the meeting-house built there by the late Rev. George Whitfield, is a large square build- ins: without elegance. At the end of this street, in Old Street Road , is a* famous spring, dedicated to St. Agnes, and from the transparency and salubrity of its waters, denominated St. Agnes La Clair, or vulgarised to Anniseed Clear. 1 In the reign of Henry the Eighth, it was thus named, “ Fons voc. Dame Agnes a Clere, ,i and had, no doubt, been turned to advantage by the priests of former times. In a survey taken of the possessions of the prebendal estate of Halliwell, alias Finsbury, it is noticed as the S04 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. well called Dame Agnes the Cleere.” By the parlia- mentary surveys taken in 1650, it is stated to have lain on waste land, and to have belonged to Charles Stuart, late King of England. On the opposite side of the road, at the north end of Pitfeld-Street, in Haberdasher's Walk, is situated Aske’s Hospital, vulgarly called The Haberdasher’s Almshouses. The building, which is of brick and stone> is four hundred feet long, with an ambulatory in front of 340 feet, under a piazza, elevated on stone columns of the Tuscan order. In the middle of the structure is a chapel adorned with columns, entablature, and pedi- ment of the Ionic order, and under the pediment is a niche, with a statue of the founder, in his livery gown, and under him a Latin inscription ; and, on the other side, is another in English. The chapel here is opened to the public on Sundays, &e. for Divine Service. Old-Street Road continues to the London Prentice, a public-house which has borne that sign many years, representing a youth thrusting his arms down the throats of two lions. Opposite to this is The Curtain Road, so named from one of the oldest theatres in London, having for its original sign a striped curtain. Richard Tarleton, one of Queen Elizabeth’s twelve players, exhibited here, as did also Richard Burbage, Hen Jonson, &c. The performers here were styled the “ Prince’s servants till the accession of Charles the First to the crown, when it diminished to a place for prize-fighters. — Its site is uncertain. Facing the end of Old-Street Road, at the north end of the street called Shoreditch, is situated the parish church of St. Leonard , Shoreditch, built in 1735, upon WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 305 the site of the ancient church of that name. A double flight of steps leads to a portico of the angular kind, supported by four Doric columns, and bearing an angular pediment. The body of the building is plain, but well enlightened, and the steeple elegant, light and lofty. The tower, at a proper height, has a series of Ionic columns, with scrolls on their entablature, which form the base of as many Corinthian columns on pedestals, and support a dome, on whose entablature rests the spire, standing upon four balls, which give it an ad- ditional air of lightness. The tower contains ten good bells. The painted windows in this church are real embellishments. In Holywell Lane , on the western side of this street, anciently stood the priory for Benedictipe nuns, founded by Robert Fitzgelran in the time of Richard the First, and after many reparations, re-edified by Sir Thomas Lovell, Knight of the Garter, in the reign of Henry the Vllth, who was buried in a chapel here, erected at his own expence. In commemoration of so great a benefactor, the following lines were painted on most of the windows — (( All the nunnes in Holy-well, “ Pray for the soul of Sir Thomas Lovell.” Shoreditch is supposed to have derived its name from Sir John Sordig, the lord of the manor in the reign of Edward the Third, and not from the idle story of Jane Shore dying for want in the reign of Richard the Third. Against this notion the testimony of Sir Thomas More, who lived in the reign of Henry the Eighth, is d d 2 306 WALKS ‘THROUGH LONDON. a sufficient objection. Speaking of this once-celebrated beauty, he says, “ Proper she was and fair ; nothing in her body that you would have changed ; but you would have wished her somewhat higher. Thus say they who knew her in her youth. Albeit some that now see her (for she yet liveth,) deem her never to have been well-visaged ; for now she is old, lean, withered, and dried up ; nothing left but rivelled skin and hard bone.” Sir John de Sordig was ambassador from Edward the Third to the Pope, and was buried in Hackney Church. A little to the west of Holywell Lane , where Chapel- Street and others now stand, was anciently the spring or well which gave name to the whole liberty, as well as to the priory just noticed; the whole probably originating in some healing qualities ascribed to the waters in these times of ignorance and pious fraud. This spot, either in consequence of the great plague, or the great fire, afterwards became elevated into a mount, which being levelled in 1777, was built upon, as beforementioned, and now contains a chapel and a burial ground. Returning again to the eastward, we come to Norton Falgate, probably derived from being the gate of the northern fold, without Eishopsgate. Spital Fields being comparatively a new neighbour- hood, here are few, or rather scarcely any vestiges of antiquity, though Paternoster-Row probably de- rived its name from some houses where rosaries, relicts, &c. were sold to the devotees of those days, on their walks to St. Mary’s Spital, or the monastery of Holywell. We also read, that near this spot in Pater * WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 307 noster-Row, Richard Tarleton, the famous player at the Curtain Theatre, kept an ordinary in these pleasant fields” The once celebrated herbalist Nicholas Culpepper, was also an inhabitant of Spitalfields. He died in 1654, in a house he occupied then in the fields, but now a public-house at the corner of Red Lion Court, in Red Lion Street, and which, though it has under- gone several repairs, still exhibits the appearance of a part of Old London. Christ- Church, Spitaljields , was begun in 1723, as one of Queen Anne’s fifty new churches, and finished in 1729. It is situated on the south side of Church- Street, and at its western extremity, its principal en- trance facing Union-Street. This is a stately edifice, built of stone, the height of the roof forty-one feet, and of the steeple 234. To the Boric portico there is a handsome ascent by a flight of steps. The steeple contains twelve bells, and excellent chimes, which perform four times a day. Sir Robert Ladbroke’s monument in this church, is a beautiful specimen of Mr. Flaxman’s abilities. The tower has arched windows and niches, and on its diminishing for the steeple, is supported by the heads of the under corners, which form a kind of but- tresses; from this part rises the base of the spire, with an arcade. Its corners are in the same manner sup- ported with a sort of pyramidal buttresses, ending in a point ; the spire terminates with a vase and fane. The hamlet of Bethnal Green, adjoining Spitalfields and Shoreditch, formerly belonged to Stepney. On Bethnal-Green, once a very pleasant spot, was an an- 3 08 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. cient house called Bishop Bonner’s Palate ; but though it does not appear that Bonner resided here, there is no doubt that this was originally a part of a manor be- longing to the Bishops of London. Near the north-east corner of Hare-Street, SpitaL fields, stands the parish church of St. Matthew, Bethnal- Green, erected in 1740, a neat brick edifice, quoined and coped with freestone. The tower, which is not high, is of the same materials. Aldgate- House, which stood on the east side of Bethnal-Green, built by Sir John Gooldsborough, in 1643, was a noble old mansion ; and being decorated by its owner, in 1760, with the remains of the city- gates, and particularly the most valuable parts of Aid- gate, consisting of Roman, Runic, Saxon, Norman, Danish, and English bricks, bass-relieros and sculp- tures, it obtained the name of Aldgate- House. This house has since been pulled down to give place to a dissenting place of worship, and several new houses. Returning to Brick-Lane, Spital-Fields, and passing the house of the Court of Requests belonging to the Tower Hamlets, we arrive at the high road, and the parish church of St. Mary, Whitechapel. This building, erected in 1673, is nearly square, and is separated into three aisles by four round and four square pillars. The centre intercolumniation on each side forms a large arch, similar to those of transepts, nearly plain ; this inter- sects that of the nave ; two others on the sides inclose diminutive Venetian celestory windows : pilasters on the north and south walls support the entablatures of the pillars, between which are large Venetian windows* The galleries do not interfere with the pillars ; that for WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 309 the organ is remarkably handsome, and has a rich carving on the front, of David playing on the harp, surrounded by musical instruments and fruit in festoons. The altar-piece consists of two composite pillars, imi- tations of lapis lazuli, supporting a pediment ; the carv- ings are elegant. Several Roman remains have been found in this parish. On the south side of the road stood Whitechapel Mount , raised by order of the Parliament that opposed Charles the First. Within a few years past, this mount has been levelled, and the spot is now covered with good houses, called Mount Place. Nearly adjoining is one of the most distinguished charitable foundations of any in England, The London Hospital. This edifice is neatly constructed of brick — plain, yet elegant ; consisting of one extended front, without either wings or inner-courts : the whole is seen at one view. To the middle door is an ascent, by a flight of steps ; and over this a very large angular pedi- ment extends, and within it is a dial. Above the ground- floor extend two series of sash windows, each consisting of twenty-three. The number of windows and the length of the building, give the whole an air of dignity. The turnpike at Mile End terminates the boundaries of the metropolis towards Essex. At the bottom of Cannon Road is the parish church 'of St. George in the East. This massy structure, finished about the year 1723, is erected in a very singular taste, by Hawksmoor and Gibbs. The floor is raised a con- siderable way above the level of the ground ; the ascent to the principal door is by a double flight of steps, cut with a sweep, and defended by a low wall of the same form. Over the body of the church there are four 310 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. turrets, and one on the tower • the latter in the manner of a fortification, with a staff on the top, for an occa- sional flag. The interior is of the Doric order, con- taining two pillars on each side, a massy intercolumnia- tion, and semi-oval arch, crossed by a rich band. The east and west ends are supported by strong square pillars and entablature ; these, with their pilasters, form four small squares, between which are aisles, ter- minating east and west. The altar is a semi-circle, with a good painting of Jesus in the Garden, by Clarkson. Near the end of Rosemary-Lane, at the extremity of this parish, is Wellclose- Square, the principal ornament of which is the Danish Church, situated in the centre ; the corners are faced with rustic. The windows, large and well-proportioned, are cased with stone, with a cherub’s head at the top of the arch ; and the roof is concealed by a blocking course. The architect of this edifice* built at the expense of Christian the Fifth, King of Denmark, in 1696, was Caius Gabriel Cibber, who also erected a monument here to his wife, Jane, mother of Colley Cibber, the famous dramatist. This church was visited in 1768, by Christian the Seventh, King of Denmark, whilst he remained in this country. On a line with this square, but farther to the east, is Princes- Square, containing The Swedes > Church, a hand- some building, the corners wrought in a plain, bold rustic, and the body divided into a central part, project- ing forwarder than the rest, and two sides. The central part has two tall windows, terminated by a pedime nt with an oval window in the midst ; but in the sides there is only a compartment below, with a circular window above. The tower is crowned with a turret WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 311 arid a dome, and from the latter rises a ball, supporting the vane, in the form of a rampant lion. In the vestry are several portraits of eminent persons. Raine's Hospital is situated in Fowden Fields, and is a very handsome edifice. Here forty-eight girls are supported with all the necessaries of life, and qualified for service. On the first of May, every year, two annual prizes of 100/. each are drawn for by six of the most deserving young women of the age of twenty-two or upwards, who have been educated in Mr. Raines's charity-schools,* and the further sum of five pounds for a dinner in the great room at the school-house, for the new- married couple, the trustees, visitors, &c. The husbands must be of the Church of England, and in- habitants of St. George's in the East, St. Paul, Shad well, or St. John, Wapping. The boys educated here had an apprentice fee of 3/. which has since been increased. Adjoining to St. George's parish is that of St. Paul’s , Shadwell, derived from a copious spring of water, sup- posed to be dedicated to St. Chad, issuing through the base of the churchyard wall. The church presents but a mean appearance, and the tower, which contains six bells, is carried up without ornament. The interior is obscured by galleries, which were gaudily ornamented with gold. This building, at present, is fast approaching ;o a state of dilapidation, so that proposals have been offered by the churchwardens to architects and sur- /eyors for rebuilding it entirely. The parish of Wapping consists of very narrow streets. The church of St. John , Wapping , stands on the north Ijide of the street, called Wapping High-Street. It is j milt entirely of brick, and consists of a plain body, vith a tower and dome, surmounted by a vane. 312 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. To form the London Docks, great part of the parish of Wapping has been excavated ; and these excavations extend along the Thames almost to Ratcliff Highway, and are enclosed by a wall of brick, lined with ware- houses. St. George’s Dock covers the space from Vir- gin ia-Street almost to Old Gravel- Lane in one direction, and is capable of holding 500 ships, with room for shifting. Another, called Shadwell Dock, adjoining, will hold about fifty ships; and the entrance to both is by three basons, capable of containing an immense quantity of small craft. The inlets from the Thames into the basons is at the Old Hermitage Dock, Old Wapping Dock, and Old Shadwell Dock. The foundation of the entrance bason to these was laid on the 26th of June 1802, by the Chancellor of the Exchequer, with the first stone of a tobacco warehouse. Since the conclusion of the late peace with France, this busy scene has undergone a considerable change. The Royalty Theatre, near Wellclose- Square, after various long intervals of suspension and shutting-up, has been recently opened under the new name of The East London Theatre , or the late Royalty, for the per- formance of light pieces, burlettes, equestrian feats, & c. Having concluded our perambulations in this part of the metropolis, we now proceed by London Bridge to the south side of the Metropolis. TjfisTierf, by Wbbzrfe JSFewJf&id'StreetJ’a. i J&fiSsked 2 ? ' 2'TeiyJl ^7:11*17 . WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 313 WALK I. From the foot of London-Bridge, down Tooley- Street, to Horselydoivn and Bermondsey ; return through Ber- mondsey -Street to the Maze , and hy St. Thomas’s Hospital to High-Street ; thence through St. Saviour’s Church-Yard to Montague- Close , Bankside, Borough- Market, and Blackman- Street, to the Obelisk, St. George’s Fields. THE Borough of Southwark extends southward from London-Bridge to Newington — to the south-west, al- most to Lambeth — and to Rotherhithe in the East : it contains the parishes of St. Olave, St. Saviour, St. John, St. Thomas, and St. George. The principal streets in it are, the Borough, or High-Street, Black- man-Street, Long-Lane, Kent-Street, Tooley, or St. Olave’s-Street, and Bermondsey, corruptly called Bar- naby-Street. We commence our survey at St. Olave’s, or Tooley- Street, which is very long, and, in general, very dirty, owing to the number of carts continually passing with £ E 314 walks through London. goods from the different wharfs on the south side of the Thames. Before we enter Tooley-Street, looking northward over the bridge, a grand entrance to the city presents itself. The fine steeple of St. Magnus, the Monument, the rise of Fish-Street-Hill, Fishmongers’-Hall, St. Michael, Crooked- Lane, and a number of spires and towers in the back ground, form an assemblage very striking and magnificent. At a small distance from London-Bridge, on the north side of the street, is the Church of St. Olave, built upon the site of an old one, and finished in 1739. It consists of a plain body, strengthened with rustic quoins; the windows are placed in three series- — the lowest upright, but very broad — the upper circular and semi-circular. The tower, containing eight bells, con- sists of three stages, the uppermost greatly diminished ; in this stage is the clock, and in those below, large win- dows. The interior is very grand, and in the west gallery is a good organ. Stow mentions, that there had been a great house, built with stone, over against this church, on the south side .of the street, with arched gates, which pertained to the Prior of Lewes, in Sus- sex.” Eastward from this church is a quay, built in 1330, by Isabel, widow to Hamond Goodcheape ; adjoining to which was a great house, of stone and timber, belonging to the Abbots of St. Augustine, Canterbury, one of the finest built houses on that side of the river, over against the city. This structure was held of the Earls of Warren and Surrey. St. Olave* s Free School is called the Free-School of Queen Elizabeth. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 315 Bridge-House . — This foundation seems to have been coeval with London-Bridge, and was appointed as a store-house of stone, timber, and other materials for its reparation ; it was also a grainery for corn in times of necessity, and had ovens to bake bread for the poor. Below the Bridge-House, on the banks of the Thames, stood the Abbot of Battle's Inn. The walks and gar- dens belonging to this Abbot, on the other side of the way, before the gate of that house, were called The Maze. Battle-Bridge was named from being situated on the ground, and over a water-course flowing out of the Thames, belonging to Battle Abbey. This place is now called Mill-Lane ; and here an extensive and use- ful improvement might be formed, by opening the end ,next the Thames, and converting the whole breadth of the street to stairs, by which commerce might be more easily and quickly conveyed from the New Custom- House to all parts of the Borough. Farther to the east is Horsley -down, corrupted from Horse down, having been originally a grazing-ground for horses. Here is the parish church of St. John the Evangelist, finished in the year 1732, as one of the fifty new ones. The body has two ranges of windows, with a Venetian one in the centre. The tower rises square, with a balustrade on the top, from whence a spire rises in form'of a Corinthian pillar, well wrought, and very properly diminished. In the tower are ten good bells, and the interior is handsomely and neatly orna- mented. Returning westward, we arrive at Bermondsey- Street i 316 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. at the south end of which was a priory, dedicated to St. Saviour, founded by Alwine Child, a citizen of Lon- don, in 1081. In 1094 William Rufus endowed it with the manor of Bermond’s Bye, an ancient demesne of the crown : among the lands and tenements belonging to it were Camberwell, Rotherhithe, the hide of Southwark, Dulwich, Waddon, and Reyham, with their appurte- nances. Having other considerable grants, after the dissolution, it was valued at 474/. 14s. 4 d. and was granted by Henry the Eighth to Sir Thomas Pope, who pulled down the church, and built a large house upon the site; afterwards becoming the possession and residence of the Earls of Sussex, they were obliged to build a place for public worship, upon, or near the site of the present parish church of St. Mary Magdalen. This was built, in 1680, at the charge of the parish, and is a plain structure, covered with stucco, seventy- six feet long, and sixty-one in breadth. The whole of the remains of the priory, a little to the south of the church, as to any external vestiges of them, are ob- literated since the new buildings rose, called Bermondsey- Square, and which till then presented an aspect truly venerable. In Bermondsey-Street was lately a very old inn, called Christopher’s Inn, on which was a rude emblem, in stucco, of St. Christopher. Christopher’ s, vulgarly Cru- cifix-Lane, leads to Snow’s-Fields. Through the Maze before-mentioned, there is an avenue to St. ThomasV Street, in which is situated Guy’s Hospital. We pass to this building through a noble iron gate, hung on handsome piers, which open into a square. In the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. S17 centre is a brazen statue of the founder, in his livery- gown, very well executed, and in the front of the pedestal this inscription : “ Thomas Guy, sole Founder of this Hospital IN HIS LIFE TIME, A. D. MDCCXXI.” On the west side is a representation, in relievo, of the parable of the good Samaritan ; on the south, Mr. Guy’s arms, and on the east, Jesus Christ healing the impotent man. The superstructure of this hospital contains three stories, besides garrets, divided into twelve wards, in which are four hundred and thirty^five beds; and the whole building is so well planned and executed that it does honour to the architect, and affords every desirable accommodation to the patients and those that attend them. On the south side of St. Thomas’s-Street is situated the parish church of St. Thomas, rebuilt in 1702. This fabric is plain, constructed with brick, and enlightened by a single series of large windows; the corners are strengthened and adorned with rustic, and the tower crowned with a blocking course of attic, instead of a balustrade. The principal door has a cornice, supported by scrolls, with a circular pediment : the inside is hand- some and spacious. St. Thomas's Hospital . — This was a very noble and extensive charity, founded for the reception of the ne- cessitous sick and wounded, as early as the year 1215, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester. In 1551, E E 2 318 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. it was granted, by Edward the Sixth, to the Mayor, Commonality, and Citizens of London, who repaired and enlarged it ; but in 1699, being old and in want of great repairs, the governors set on foot a voluntary sub- scription, and the building was begun upon a still larger plan, and erected at different times by the assistance of various benefactors, till it was entirely completed, and consists, in the whole, of three quadrangles or square courts. Next the Borough High-Street is a handsome pair of large iron gates and stone piers ; on each of which is a statue, representing one of the patients. The square court within is encompassed on three sides with a colonade, and benches next the wall. The centre of the principal front is of stone. On the top is a clock, under a small circular pediment, and beneath a niche, containing a statue of Edward the Sixth, with a sceptre in his right hand, and the charter in his left. Lower, in niches on each side, is a man with a crutch, and a sick woman ; and under them a man with a wooden leg, and a woman with her arm in a sling, under which is the following inscription : “ King Edward the Sixth, of pious memory, in the year of our Lord, 1552, founded and endowed this Hospital of St. Thomas the Apostle, together with the Hospitals of Christ and Bridewell, in London.” The second court is by far the most elegant. The Chapel is on the north side, adorned with lofty pilasters of the Corinthian order, placed on high pedestals, which rise from the ground. The fronts of the wards above walks through London. &19 the piazzas are ornaments, with handsome Ionic pilas- ters. The centre of this court contains a good brass statue of Edward the Sixth, by Scheemakers, with Latin and English inscriptions, upon a lofty stone pedestal. The statue is surrounded with iron rails. The next court contains a statue of Sir Robert Clayton, Lord Mayor of London, a liberal benefactor to the hospital, with a long inscription. This hospital contains nineteen wards and four hundred and seventy beds. At the north end of the High-Street, formerly called Long Southwark, is a narrow passage called Pepper Alley, a plying-place for watermen, through which is an avenue to St, Saviour’s Close, commonly called Montague Close, from having been the residence of the Lords Montague and Monteagle : the latter was the ijnobleman who, by the means of a letter being sent ta him, to warn him of the danger of the gunpowder plot, was the cause of its discovery. Crossing St. Saviour’s Lock we arrive upon the site ;of the ruins of Winchester House, supposed to have been built about 1107, by William Gifford, Bishop of Winchester. It was certainly the residence of those prelates during their attendance in parliament ; and before it fell into decay, was one of the most magnifi- cent in the city or suburbs of London. This palace, with the other buildings belonging to it, occupied in front most of the Bank Side, now called Clink Street , and had an open view of that part of the Thames long since choked up with wharfs and warehouses. This Episcopal Palace, according to the old plans of London, appears to have formed two courts, with a number of offices, &c. The south side was bounded by beautiful $20 walks Through London. gardens, statues, fountains, &c. and a spacious park; the east by the monastery of St. Saviour, and the west by the Paris garden. The venerable remains of Winchester House were laid open to public view by a fire which occurred in August 1814, and destroyed a long range of warehouses and magazines of corn. After this, what is presumed to have been the great hall, exhibited three conjoined entrances at the east end, and a grand circular window in the gable, terminating the wali at that point, and Very curious and uncommon, from its scientific com- mixture of triangular compartments. The tracery of this rare window is intricate, and the centre of the circle peculiarly beautiful ; its diameter twelve feet. It was probably as old as Edward the First. A pier was seen at the north-east angle of the wall, and part Of a connecting arch. The range of windows in the south wall were nearly entire ; the arches mostly of a flat character, and had but few mouldings, though two doors on the lower story were very elegant. Most of these remains were built in on the restoration of the warehouses, or destroyed. However, a good view of them is preserved in the Gentleman’s Magazine for December 1814, and in Wilkinson’s Londina Illus- trata. What is now denominated Bankside was formerly a range of dwellings, licensed by the Bishops of Win- chester, for “ the repair of incontinent men to the like Women.” These houses were distinguished by signs, and were under legal rules and regulations till the reign of Henry the Eighth, when they were put down by the King’s commandment, proclaimed by sound of trumpet. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 321 Formerly there was a chapel for these women who became penitents, which is alluded to in an old black letter book, printed by Wynkyn de Woorde. And as for this old place the wenches holy. That will not have it called the Stews for foly, But maketh it Strawberry Bank , And there is yet a chapel, save, Of which they all pardon have. The Saint is of some tro thaoke. On the dispersion of these women, in Henry the Eighth's reign, the same ballad makes the following remarks — There came such a wind from Winchester, That blew these women over the river, In wherry as I will you tell, Some at St. Katherin’s stuck a ground, And many were in Ho’boorne found, Some at St. Gyles I trowe ; Also in Ave Mary Ally, and at Westminster, And some in Shoredyche drew thither With great lamentacyon. Adjoining to Winchester House, to the south, stood Rochester House , the residence of the bishops of that see. In Stow’s time it was deserted, and was much out of repair. It was afterwards divided into small and mean dwellings, and has left no remembrance on the spot, the name of Rochester- Street excepted. The Clink was a prison for such as should “ brabble, fray, or break the peace on the said bank." The bishop of Winchester's steward tried pleas of debt, damages 322 WALKS THROUGH LOtfDON. or trespass in the Clink Liberty, for any sura ; and this prison was long complained of as a filthy noisome dungeon. A little to the eastward stands the parish church of St. Mary Overy, or St. Saviour , founded long before William the Conqueror, by a maiden named Mary ; being a house of sisters, to whom she gave the profits of a ferry across the Thames to and from London, there being then no bridge. This house was after- wards converted into a college of priests, by another lady named Siuithen; and in 1106, was formed into a priory of canons regular, by William Pont de PArch, and William D'Auncy, knights and Normans, when William Gilford, Bishop of Winchester, built the body of the church. King Henry the First, by charter, gave them the church of St. Margaret on the Hill, which was confirmed by King Stephen. Peter de la Roch founded a large chapel, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, in the church of St. Mary, which chapel was afterwards used as the parish church for the neighbouring in- habitants. St. Mary Overy’s church was rebuilt in 1400, to which John Gower, the poet, was a great benefactor. In 1539, the priory was surrendered to Henry the Eighth ; after which the inhabitants pur- chased it, and the chapel of St. Mary Magdalen was added on the south side to enlarge it for the accom- modation of a numerous parish. The church is a noble fabric, built with three aisles, running from east to west, and a cross aisle, after the manner of a cathedral. It is in the Gothic style ; the roof of the body and the chancel is supported by twenty -six pillars, and that of our Lady, or New Chapel, (now used for the Bishop's HdTisTiaLlry W darieJfavSond’ StnetMarzjzekf. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 323 Court,) with six smaller pillars; and that of the former church of St. Mary Magdalen on the south side, by six pillars like the last. The galleries in the walls of the choir are adorned with pillars and arches, similar to Westminster Abbey. The tower, containing twelve fine- toned bells, is built upon four very strong pillars; over the meeting of the middle aisle with the cross aisle, at the four angles of the tower, are pinnacles of stone, with brockets, and the walls of the church are of brick and boulder. This building underwent a substantial repara- tion in 1703. Its length, from the altar to the iron gajte, is 126 feet, from that gate to the west end of the church 7 1 , and from the altar to the east end of the New Chapel 72; the whole length 269 feet, and the whole breadth 54. The monuments in this church are numerous and well worth inspection, particularly that of Gower, the poet ; but the inscriptions are mostly cloathed in the quaint and homely phrase of former times. In the (south side of the churchyard is a Free Grammar School, founded at the charge of the parish in 1562, and ad- joining to this a Free School, founded about 1681, by Dorothy Applebee, for thirty poor boys, i Globe Alley is so named from the theatre called The Globe, that flourished in 16Q3, and had a licence that year under the Privy Seal, granted by James the First o Shakespeare, Fletcher, Burbage, Ifemmings and Eondell, to act plays, not only at their usual place, he Globe, but in any other part of the kingdom, luring His Majesty’s pleasure. Near the Globe was The Bear or Paris Garden for Waiting of bears, horses, &c. To this place our cele- 324 WALKS THROUGH LONDON* brated Queen Elizabeth caused the French ambassadors to be taken for their diversion in these bloody spec- tacles ! Bear-baiting was reckoned among the usual sights of London for strangers. It is mentioned where a party went “ abroad with the hostesse to see sights; Cheap- side, the Exchange, Westminster, and London Bridge, trode the top of Powles vnder their feet, beene at Beare-garden, scene a play, and had a tauern banquet/* &c. However, when the Puritans ruled, they considered, that from the statesmen to the canaille, must to the conventicle ; bear-baiting ceased under the general prohibition; and as the land belonged to the Crown, it was sold in January 1647, for 1783/. 15$. The Puritans left no other amusement for general par- ticipation than the diversions of the field, which, pro- bably, they had not a sufficient length of reign to devise the means of stopping. Edmund Gayton describes the effect of their mandate in the following lines : Hare is good sport, as all our gentry know. The only recreation left us now ; For plays are down, unless the puppet play. Sir William’s lost, both Oyle and Opera : The noble cock-fight done, the harmless bears. Are more than ring’d by th’ nose nr by the ears: We are serious people grown, and full of cares. As melancholy as cats, as glum as hares. The diversion of bear-baiting was commonly suc- ceeded by some novelty befitting such an exhibition. Alleyn concluded an advertisement with telling the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 325 public, for their better content, (they) shall have pleasant sport with the horse and ape, and whipping of the blind bear.” On the west side of the Borough -Market is Dead - man 1 s-Place , containing an Hospital or College, founded by Thomas Cure, Esq. in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, It contains sixteen apartments, for as many poor men and women of St. Saviour’s parish, each of whom has twenty pence per week. Passing to the Borough High-Street we come to St, Margaret's- Hill. Here is erected a handsome Town- hall, on the site of the former church of that name, in which the Sessions for the Borough have long been held. On the opposite side of High-Street, is the Tabard , (corrupted to Talbot) Inn, originally the residence of the Abbots of Hyde, near Winchester, when they attended the parliament. This inn was also the place of ren- dezvous for the pilgrims on their pious journies to Canterbury, to visit the Shrine of Thomas a Bechet, as described by Chaucer. The highway from St. Margaret’s Hill to Newington Causeway, is called Blackman-Street, on the east side of which is the Marshalsea, which is both a court of law and a prison. On the same side of the street is the parish church of St. George the Martyr ; that which formerly stood here, was of ancient foundation, and pertained to the priory of Bermondsey. The present edifice has an ascent by a flight of steps, defended by plain iron rails. The door-case of the Ionic order, has a circular pedi- ment, ornamented with the heads of cherubim in clouds ; and the front, to the height of the roof, on each side of the pediment, is adorned with a balustrade and F F 326 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. rases. From this part the tower rises plain, strength- ened with rustic quoins, with vases on the corners of it. From hence a series of Ionic columns support the base of the spire, which has ribs on the angles. The top is crowned with a ball and a vane. The inside of this church is handsomely decorated, and in the old church the unhallowed remains of the cruel Bishop Bonner were deposited. He had been confined many years in the Marshalsea, where he died miserably and un- lamented. The assemblage of ruinous old houses opposite St. George’s Church, now called The Mint, stands on the site of the magnificent mansion built by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, in the reign of Henry the Eighth. In process of time, a mint being established here for the King’s use, the cottages and houses that rose on the site of this great house, after its demolition, obtained the name of the Mint. A few streets on this spot, and one or two in Spitalfields, are the whole that remain unpaved with flag-stones, •&c. within the limits of the city, and its suburbs. The Mint continued for many years an asylum for fraudulent debtors, and persons who took refuge here with their effects, and set their creditors at defiance ; but this, with similar privileges, were entirely sup- pressed by parliament in the reign of George the First. The place, however, still remains one of the dirtiest and most inconvenient in Southwark. In Union-Street, northward of the Mint, is Union- Hall, a very handsome structure, used as a police office. Adjoining to this is the Surrey Dispensary, for the distribution of medicine among the poorer classes. At tire south-east end of Blackman-Streei, in Horse- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 327 monger- Lane, is the New County Goal, and House of Correction , for the County of Surrey. These pre- mises are extremely spacious; and here is good room for a court-hall, a chapel, offices, &c. adapted to every desirable purpose. The situation also is healthy and open. The place of execution is a temporary scaffold on the top of the lodge, on the north side of it. The keeper’s house is a handsome building on the west side. At the south-west corner of Biackman-Street, in the road to the Obelisk, St. George’s Fields, is situated the King's Bench Prison , for debtors, and every one sen- tenced by the Court of King’s Bench; but those who can purchase the liberties, have the benefit of walking through Biackman-Street, a part of the Borough, and in St. George’s Fields. This building is surrounded by a very high wall. Prisoners in any other gaol may remove hither by Habeas Corpus. This prison contains at least three hundred rooms: the number of people confined here is greater ; and decent accommodation.* are much more expensive than in the Fleet. m Walks through London. WALK IL Prom the Obelisk, along the east arid west sides of Great Surrey Road to Black Friars Bridge. Return, by the West side, to the New Cut to W est minster -Bridge ; thence by the Asylum and FrecmasorC s School, termi- nating at the Obelisk. St. George^s Fields anciently occupied a broad portion of marsh land, till the embankment of the Thames rendered it capable of improvement. That it was inhabited by the Romans is evident from some remains of tesselated pavements, coins, and bones, though it might have been used as an cestiva , or summer camp; for, even till the seventeenth century, Lambeth Marsh was overflowed. These fields now form different roads, and, from the Obelisk, open communications with all the south-east counties, and the coasts of France in times of peace. The Obelisk was erected in 1771, during the mayoralty, and in honour of Brass Crosby, Esq. who had been confined in the Tower for the conscientious discharge of his magisterial duty. It is a plain but neat column, and forms a centre at the division of the great south road. Tbe cause of its erection is inscribed on one side, and the other three sides mark the distances from Fleet-Street, London-Bridge, and Westminster. Before we quit this part of Southwark, it may be proper to notice, that the following wood engraving kthciby WaariM»M.^nd^tnety}przic^. t r k WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 329 represents part of the ruins of Winehester-IIouse, be- fore described. The next object of attention, in Great Surrey Road, is The Royal Circus , first commenced by subscription, and undertaken in favour of Mr. Hughes, a riding- master of considerable abilities : being destroyed by fire, in 1805, it was afterwards rebuilt in a tasteful and ornamental manner, and is at present occupied by Mr. Thomas Dfrdin, under whose tasteful management the whole of the entertainments are conducted with elegance and judgment. They consist of Burlettas,, Ballets, Pantomimes, &c. To the northward, on the same side of the street, is the Magdalen Hospital, for the reception of penitent prostitutes, first projected, in 1758, by Mr. Robert Dingley, and kept in Prescot-Street, Goodman’s Fields, This hospital consists of four brick buildings, enclosing FF 2 §30 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. a quadrangle, with a bason in the centre. The chapel is an octangular edifice, erected at one of the back corners, and is open on Sundays to genteel persons, who are expected to pay a trifle in silver upon en- trance, for the benefit of the charity. The Surrey Institution , in Great Surrey Road, is held in the building at first appropriated to the Leverian Museum. In common with other establishments of this kind, lectures are delivered ; and here are also an ex- tensive Library and Reading rooms; a Chemical Labo- ratory, and Philosophical Apparatus. Beyond Stamford- Street is situated the parish church of Christ Church. The original edifice was erected in 1671, and was founded and endowed by Mr. John Marshall; but, in consequence of a very damp founda- tion, becoming ruinous, it was again rebuilt of brick, in 1737. The steeple consists of a tower and cupola; the roof is supported by pillars of the Tuscan order, and the interior is very neat. On a window, in the middle of the altar-piece, are painted the arms of England, of the see of Winchester, and of Mr. Mar- shal, the founder ; under which are the words, “ John Marshall, founder and endowerof this church.” This gentleman also settled sixty pounds per annum upon the minister for ever. The eight bells in this steeple were given by eight gentlemen of the parish. On the eastern side of Great Surrey Road, opposite the New Cut, leading to Westminster-Bridge, is a large octagon building for the use of Protestants of the Methodist persuasion, called Surrey Chapel . The erection of this place of religious worship was in con- sequence of the exertions of the Rev. Mr. Rowland Hill, an eccentric, but highly respectable character. BJr'Hsk&Z fy WXZcTkt'lfai'Bon^ StrztMzrJ-.lfoy- I WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 331 This structure is capable of holding nearly five thousand persons, and is divided into ground seats and a gallery, on the east side of which is the organ, behind the pulpit and reading desks. The organ, by Elliot, is particularly noticed for its sweetness of tone, as well as for its extensive powers, which are so great that in one of the hymns descriptive of thunder many of the audience have fainted. It contains the following stops. .Great Organ: two open diapasons, stop diapason, principal, flute, twelfth, fifteenth, sesqui altra, mixture, trumpet, clarion, and cornet, with an octave of pedal pipes. Swell Organ : open diapason, stop diapason, principal trumpet, and cornet. Whether dissenting places of worship are legally liable to pay parish poors' rales, it is probable will be determined with a process which has been long carried on against the Rev. Rowland Hill, who has resisted the payment on the ground of the Toleration Act in behalf of the dissenters in general, to whose privileges he deems it inimical. The large building at the foot of the bridge, a few years since known by the name of the Albion Mills, is now converted into several private dwellings. On the opposite side of the way is the house and offices belonging to the Governor and Company of the British Plate Glass Manufactory, incorporated by Act of Parliament, in the year 1773. Their extensive concern is carried on here, and at their works at Ravenhead, in Lancashire. Their stock in hand of materials, manufactured and unmanufactured, and substantial buildings, freehold and leasehold, in London and Lancashire, taken at a very low estimate, are nearly equal in value to double the sum of the whole funded 332 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. capital, which, as limited by the legislature, is one hundred thousand pounds. To the south of Christ Church, facing Surrey Cha- pel, is a road, called The New Cut to Westminster Bridge ; and some avenues to the right of this lead to Broad Wall and Narroiu Wall, so called from being embankments to restrain the ravages of the tide. Sir William Dugdale frequently makes mention of the works for securing this part of the river in old times, and styles them embankments, or walls, which must have been originally raised by the Romans ; “ other- wise/’ says Mr. Pennant, “ they never could have erected the buildings, or roads, of which such vestiges have been found on this side of the Thames/' About 1789, a Manufactory for Patent Shot was erected on the Narrow Wall, by Messrs. Watts. “ The principle of making this shot is to let it fall from a great height into the water, that it may cool and harden in its passage through the air.” The tower at this manufactory is about one hundred and forty feet from the ground to the top of the turret, and the shot falls about one hundred and twenty-three feet, six inches. The site of Cuper's Garden was till lately covered by extensive Wine and Vinegar Works. The esta- blishment, called The Refuge for the Destitute, near Cuper’s Bridge, has been, for some time past, moved into Hackney Road, and the Vinegar Works to South Lambeth. At a short distance from this spot, we come to Coade’s Manufactory of Artificial Stone, hardened by the vitrifying aid of fire. It is impossible, within our limits, to enumerate all the excellent works which have been executed at this place : the principal are, walks through London. 333 the celebrated Gothic screen in St. George’s Chapel at Windsor, supporting the organ gallery ; also the Gothic front, and the three statues of King Edward, Madona and Child, and St. George and'* the Dragon on the west front of the chapel ; the arms, &c. of the Trinity House on Tower Hill ; the group of statues in front of the Pelican Office, Lombard-Street, &c. &c. The gallery, opened on the Surrey side of Westminster Bridge, leading down to the manufactory, contains specimens of various works, models in basso relievo, statues, &c. highly gratifying to the curious. Opposite Coade’s Gallery, in the Westminster Road, is The Royal Amphitheatre , where the late Mr. Astley used to exhibit feats of horsemanship. This theatre has been twice burnt down ; but the present structure in elegant decoration surpasses either of the former, and is a favourite place of amusement during the summer season, under the conduct of Mr. John Astley. The Westminster Lying-in- Hospital is a laudable in- stitution, not formed merely for the honest matron, who can depose her burthen with the consciousness of lawful love, but also, for once only, for those unhappy beings who, in an unguarded moment, were seduced to be a prey to villany, deserted by their friends, and exposed to the horrid complication of guilt, want, and wretchedness. After having passed the Turnpike, we come to The Asylum, an excellent charity, owing its rise to the humane and judicious plan of the celebrated Sir John Fielding, for friendless and deserted girls under twelve years of age. Proceeding eastward, on the north side of the road, is The Freemason' s Charity School for Female Children, where they are admitted from five to ten years. 334 WALKS THROUGH LONDON* In the new road from Westminster Bridge to New- ington Butts, we come to New Bethlem Hospital . — • This edifice presents a front truly grand, five hundred and eighty Teet long, composed of two wings and a noble portico, formed by a lofty range of Ionic pillars, supporting a handsome pediment, with a tympanum, containing, in its centre, the Royal arms of the united kingdom. The centre of the building is also crowned by a dome, and has a number of appropriate embel- lishments. After it had been resolved to take down Old Beth- lem, and build a superior edifice in St. Ueorge’s Fields, a most disgraceful discovery, in consequence of par- liamentary investigation, was made of the treat- ment of the insane patients. The Committee of the House of Commons, on inspecting this building, and entering the gallery on the principal floor, observed “ that the windows were so high as to prevent the patients from looking out; with the unfitness of which they were struck, as intelligent persons had stated, that the greatest advantage might be derived from the patients having opportunities of seeing objects that might, amuse them.” It was stated by Mr. Upton, the Deputy Architect, that “ these windows were at first so constructed, but were afterwards built up at the lower part, on a suggestion that it would be inconvenient to expose the patients to the view of the passengers; which inconvenience it is conceived might be very easily obviated.” The windows in the upper story appear to be properly constructed. The Report continues, “ In the sleeping apartments the windows are not glazed, which deprives the patients generally of a reasonable comfort, and may, in many cases, be really injurious. But, what appears to be still 1 frt7zs7uJ.tyWaasfoNw/ Street fiec.l.i&J. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 335 more important, there are no flues constructed for the purpose of conducting warm air through the house, ex- cept in the lower galleries on the basement story, w hich are proposed to be warmed by steam. This appears to be deserving- of serious consideration, because it is repre- sented that the patients suffer sensibly from cold ; and Dr. Munro, the Physician to the Hospital, stated, that it had not been thought adviseable to administer medicines in the winter, on account of the cold of the house. “ In the Infirmary for Female Patients there are only three small windows, at a great height, on the northern side of the room ; it appeared, therefore, that something should be done for ventilation, which might easily be accomplished. The construction of the privies appears to be very objectionable ; and there is only one in each of the upper galleries, one in the criminal part, and two in the basement story : nor are there any privies or urinals in the airing grounds. And it seems doubtful, whether the drain passing under the beds, is on such a construc- tion as will answer the intended purpose. u There is no room set apart for the reception of the dead bodies, which should be provided for. “ There are eight acres of ground occupied for the Hos- pital, including the site of the buildings, the airing- grounds, and one acre and a half intended for a kitchen- garden ; and there are nearly four acres more adjoining, which it is the intention of the Governors to turn to profit, the Act of Parliament restraining them to the use of eight. The Committee, however, think it may be expedient to submit to the consideration of Parlia- ment, the propriety of enabling the Governors to devote this ground to the general purposes of the Hospital, 336 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. from a conviction of the benefits the patients derive from exercise, and, in many cases, from labour. “ And that the patients may not be entirely deprived of these benefits in wet weather, it appears to be de- sirable that pent houses should be erected against the cross-walls of the airing-grounds, or a sort of covering in the middle thereof, like those at St. Luke’s Hospital. In the criminal part of the building, the Committee find the same objection to the height of the windows, as before mentioned, and that no provision whatever is made for warming this department, although the warm- ing pipes from the basement story are continued to the door at which this part is entered ; and it may be use- ful, if external doors of iron grating should be provided on the basement story.” The Committee further remarked, that in this part of the building there is no Infirmary. In consequence it was “ Resolved, That the Chairman be directed to move the House, That leave be given to bring in a Bill, to amend and enforce the Provisions of the Act of the 14th George the Third, c. 49, intituled, " An Act for regu- lating Mad-houses.” Hence to the Obelisk, and to the Kent road, a little beyond the Bricklayer’s Arms, concludes this walk. Here we notice The Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, a handsome brick building, very accurately repre- sented in the annexed engraving. Near this spot is also the Institution for the Cure of Cancers , &c. Thus having commenced our perambulation of the metropolis at the emporium of commerce, we have closed this part of our undertaking among the mansions of charity. ♦ AMuhtd fy WC2ar^e.NetvJaruL Street Nov. r i. : l/!.7 r ^ 7 7 x” tk WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 337 <£nbu*mts of WLovtom* WALK I. From the Surrey side of Westminster- Bridge to Stangate- Street and Lambeth, Vauxliall, Vauxhall- Bridge, South Lambeth, Kennington, Stockweil, Walcot- Place, Newington Butts, Walworth, Camberwell, Dulwich , New Cross, Rotherhithe, Sydenham, Deptford, Green- wich, Woolwich, Shooter’s Hill,' Frith, The Grays, Dartford, Eltham, and Greenhithe . LAMBETH has been, for many ages, the residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury, as it had been long before that of the Bishops of Rochester. The palace was originally built in 1189, by Baldwin, metropolitan in the time of Richard the First ; in 1292, it was, in a great measure, if not wholly, re-built by Boniface. That part which is called the Lollard’s Tower, was built in the reign of Henry the Fifth, by Henry Chicheley, Archbishop of Canterbury. He was a perse- cutor of the followers of WicklifF; and the tower de- rived its name from a room which it contained, appro* o G 338 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. priated to the imprisonment of the followers of that reformer, who were called Lollards. This is a small room, twelve feet by nine, planked with elm ; in which still remain eight rings and staples, to which these un- fortunate people were chained. During the short time that Cardinal Pole was Archbishop of Canterbury, he built the fine gate of the palace, with a gallery and several rooms adjoining at the east end. The library was begun by Archbishop Bancroft, in the reign of James the First, and carried on by Dr. Juxon, the archbishop at the restoration. Queen Elizabeth, the Earl of Leices- ter, Archbishop Laud, and many others, contributed to it, and at present it contains upwards of 25,000 printed books, and numbers of manuscripts; some of which are exceedingly valuable and curious. In the great dining room are portraits of all the archbishops, from Laud to the present time, which form an interesting series of the revolutions, in the Clerical dress. From the cir- cumstance of the present edifice having been built at different periods, it possesses very little uniformity ; but the principal parts are well-proportioned and well- enlightened. The New Buildings consist of a house on the right hand of the first court, built by Archbishops Bancroft and Tillotson ; the Great Hall , ninety-three feet by thirty-eight, with a Gothic roof, constructed of timber; the Guard Chamber, fifty-six feet by twenty-seven and a half, is supposed to have been built before the year 1424 : it is roofed like the hall. The gardens and park contain thirteen acres : the late Archbishop Moore, besides building an extensive brick wall, made a new passage for carriages through the park, to the house. Carlisle House, near this palace, was the residence WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 339 of the Bishops of Rochester till the sixteenth century ; having been a pottery, a tavern, a dancing-house, &c. it has been for some years past an academy for young gentlemen. Norfolk Row stands on the site of a former residence of the Dukes of Norfolk. — A palace, belonging to the Bishops of Hereford, in Fore-Street, was afterwards converted into a pottery. Lambeth Wells, in Lambeth, was a place of entertain- ment, opened on account of its mineral water ; but the house becoming a public nuisance, was shut up, and ultimately let as a Methodist meeting-house. A continuation of Lambeth is called Vauxhall Walk , leading to Faukes Hall, corruptly called Vauxhall . — Vauxhall, or Spring Gardens, appear to have been a place of common resort, as early as 1 712, as the Spec- tator, in No. 383, has introduced his favourite charac- ter, Sir Roger De Coverley, accompanying him in a voyage from Temple Stairs to this place. These exten- sive gardens contain a variety of walks, illuminated with coloured lamps, and terminated by beautiful trans- parent paintings. Opposite the west door is a magni- ficent Gothic orchestra, and on the left, an elegant rotunda, in which the band perform, in rainy or cold weather. At ten o’clock, a bell announces the opening of a cascade, with the representation of a water-mill, a mail coach, ike. Fireworks of a most brilliant descrip- tion are also among the attractions of this charming place. In numerous recesses or pavillions, parties are accom- modated with suppers and other refreshments, charged according to a bill of fare. The respective boxes and apartments are adorned with 340 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. a vast number of paintings, many of which are executed in the best style of their respective theatres. The labours of Hogarth and Hayman are the most conspicuous. On a pedestal, under the arch of a grand portico, of the Doric order, is a fine marble statue of Handel, in the character of Orpheus playing on his lyre, done by the celebrated M. Roubiliac. The number of persons who are employed in the gardens, during the season, is said to amount to four hundred ; ninety-six of whom are musicians and singers; the rest are waiters and servants of various kinds. The celebrated Lowe and Beard were among the first singers engaged at Vauxhall. At present the regular vocal performers are : Mrs. Franklin, Mr. Dignum, Mr. Gibbons, Mr. Gray, Mr. Denman, Mrs. Bland, &c. Upwards of 15,000 lamps have been used to illumi- nate the gardens at one time, and the effect of the illumi- nation is perfectly beautiful in a moonlight night. The band of the Duke of York's regiment of guards, dressed in full uniform, adds to the attraction of these enchant- ing gardens, by military harmony. Sixteen thousand persons are said to have been assembled here at one time. Those who have never visited the “ fairy land of fancy," can form an idea of its fascinating appearance only by conceiving themselves to be in some of those enchanted palaces and gardens, so admirably described in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments. Vauxhall Gardens open about the middle of May, and close on the 30th of August. The doors are opened at half-past six, and the concert begins at eight o'clock. Vauxhall -Bridge, which crosses the Thames, close to Cumberland Gardens, and was opened in July 1810, PubtisTud by WO^New£imcLS-treetJf!r:iJ.3if i WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 341 consists of nine arches, of equal span, formed of cast iron, and raised upon stone piers. The span of each arch is about eighty feet, and the width of each pier about fourteen. The elevation of the centre arch, above high water mark, is about thirty feet, and that of the other arches is not materially less. The length of the bridge is about eight hundred feet, its width, exclusive of foot- ways, affords sufficient room for four carriages to pass abreast. — The sides are guarded by light iron pallisadoes, through which even the foot passenger has an uninterrupted view of all the beautiful scenery which abounds on the banks, as well as of the inte- resting objects which hourly present themselves upon the bosom of the Thames. The roads are so judiciously constructed, that the ascent to the bridge is scarcely perceptible, although originally elevated so much above the level of the ground on each side of the river. The approach to this bridge on the Surrey side is from the east of the Vaux- hall turnpike, from which it is not above one hundred yards distant. The avenue on the Middlesex side is formed by a new road of sixty feet wide, including foot-ways. This road is about a mile in length, in a direct line to Eaton-Street, Pimlico, through which, and Grosvenor-Place, a fine opening continues to Hyde- Park Corner. This bridge presents some resemblance of Buonaparte’s celebrated bridge of Austerlitz, but is far its superior in extent and elegance. South Lambeth, between Stockwell and Vauxhall, was chosen by Sir Noel Caron, Dutch ambassador to this Court thirty-three years, for a palace, which he built with tvvo wings j its present remains are an Academy. G G 2 342 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Kennington, one of the eight precincts of Lambeth, once contained a royal palace, in which Henry the Third assembled a parliament, and where Edward the Third kept his Christmas in 1342. Henry the Fifth also resided here. This palace is supposed to have been pulled down, and a manor-house erected in its room, which was occupied by Charles the First, when Prince of Wales. In a survey taken in 1656, this manor-house is said to be a small low timber building, situate upon part of the foundation of the ancient mansion-house of the Black Prince, &c., and long since ruined, nothing thereof remaining but the stable, one hundred and eighty feet long, and now used as a barn.” This Long Barn , as it was afterwards called, in 1709, was an asylum for the distressed Palatine protestants. This road, in all ancient writings, is denominated, “ The Princes Road.” Stockwell, between Kennington and Clapham, has a neat chapel of ease, and was the scene of a singular deception, at the house of Mrs. Golding, in the year 1772, when, it is said, all the furniture literally danced about the house, and was sometimes broken without any visible cause. Mr. Lysons observes, that an auction being held at this house, in 1792, after the death of Mrs. Golding and her daughter, “ the dancing furni- ture sold at a very extravagant price.” We return, by the Vauxhall Road, to Walcot-Place. — On the site of what was called the Dog and Duck, is the School for the Indigent Blind, which provides for twenty-one boys and fourteen girls. They manufac- ture baskets, clothes-lines, and sash-cord, which may be purchased at the school, where strangers are gratui- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 343 tously permitted to inspect the progress of the pupils, the nature of the institution, &c. As some of the inmates here are permitted to walk in the large area within the iron gate, they frequently excite the attention and surprise of passengers. Lower down is the building appropriated to the use of The Philanthropic Society, whose object is to receive the children of criminals and who by their birth, or in their infancy, have been exposed to vice and misery. Here are several hundreds of boys and girls, and many of them are employed in various trades and occupations. At the bottom of Prospect-Place are the Fishmon- gers’ Almshouses . The building which is called SL. Peter’s Hospital, was erected by virtue of letters patent, granted by James the First, in 1619, to the Fish- mongers’ Company, for the reception of several of their poor members. Newington Butts extends from the end of South- wark to Kennington Common. The only manor in this parish is Walworth, called Waleorde in Domes- day Book, and then had a church. The church of St. Mary, Newington, being in aruinous state, was rebuilt in 1793, on tbesameinconvenient spot, by thesideof agreat road. In this church-yard is a remarkable tomb, raised oyer the body of William Allen, wantonly singled out, and killed, in 1768, by one of the soldiers, when the late John Wilkes, Esq. was in the King’s Bench Prison. The parsonage is an ancient building, of great curiosity, surrounded by a moat, over which there were four small bridges. The house is now completely disguised by its improvements and alterations. Passing through Walworth, by a road lined with S44 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. elegant mansions, we arrive at Camberwell , two miles from London. The Church dedicated to St. Giles, w as built in the reign of Henry the Eighth. Some of the monuments are curious, particularly those of the Mus- champs, who came to England with William the Conqueror, and lived at Peckham. Grove Hill , once the residence of the late Dr. Lettsom, is no more what it was, previous to his re- moval from it and subsequent demise : Where Grove Hill shows thy villa fair, But lately there, my Fiiend, with thee, ’Twas mine the tranquil hour to share. The social hour of converse free ; To mark the arrangement of thy ground, And all the pleasing prospect round, Where, while we gaz’d, new beauties still were found. Such are the soft enchanting scenes displayed, In all the blended charms of light and shade, At Camberwell’s fair Grove and verdant brow ; The loveliest Surrey's swelling hills can show . The descent from the house leads to Dulwich . — • Here, in 1614, Mr. Edward Alleyn erected a com* modious building, for an Hospital, from a design by Inigo Jones, and this he named The College of God’s Gift ; to consist of a master, warden, and four fellows, of which three are Ecclesiastics, and the fourth an organist, six poor men and as many poor women, all of whom are enjoined celibacy, and twelve boys, who are educated by two of the fellows of the college. Over the entrance into this edifice is a long Latin inscription, written by Mr. James Hume, descriptive of Mr. Alleyn's qualifications and benevolence. The college contains a library of books, part of them the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 345 gift of benefactors. There is likewise a gallery of pictures, some of them left by the founder, and others are benefactions ; but none are equal to those by the late Sir Francis Bourgeois, R. A. who was himself a painter. These amount to three hundred and forty- three, and occupy five rooms. Most of them are by the first masters, Italian, French, and Flemish, Sir Joshua Reynolds, & c. — The fine walk opposite the Old Green Man, affords, from its summit, a fine pros- pect ; but this is much exceeded by that from a hill behind the house, under a tree, called, “ The Oak of Honour,” from a tradition that Queen Elizabeth used often to repose under it. The late Lord Thurlow’s seat, called Knight’s Hill , lies in the parish of Lambeth, between Dulwich and Norwood, and was the first that was completely finished with the cone flooring. The upper stories exhibit delightful views over Kent, Surrey, and the metropolis; and the Thames, in various parts, is discernible from Chelsea to Gravesend. The annual fairs kept at Camberwell and Peckham are much resorted to from London. In the Kent Road, near New Cross, is the handsome villa lately belonging to John Rolls, Esq. Here the Grand Surrey Canal presents the singular spectacle of seven locks, within the short distance of a quarter of a mile. Half a mile to the left, on Plow Garlick Hill , is the second station of the Deal Telegraph: the first is in West-Square, St. George’s Fields ; hence a single signal has been communicated, in a clear day, from the Admiralty to Deal in two minutes and a half. Rotherhithe , called Rederiff, is on the bank of the 346 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. river, and well inhabited by masters of ships, sea- faring people, and tradesmen depending upon naviga- tion. The church-yard contains the monument of Prince Lee Boo , a native of the Pelew Islands, erected by the East India Company, and inscribed as a testi- mony of the humane treatment afforded by his father to the crew of the Antelope, wrecked off' his island in August, 1783. Near the extremity of Rotherhithe parish are the docks for the Greenland ships. After passing through the gate at New Cross, the road on the right leads to Lewisham, Bromley, Seven- oaks, and Tunbridge, in Kent; and to Rye and Hast- ings, in Sussex. Sydenham , a hamlet of Lewisham, is noted for its pleasant situation, and the extensive views from its hill. Here is an excellent Grammar-School, and alms-houses, founded by the Rev. Mr. Abraham Colfe. Returning to the great Kent road, we arrive at Deptford, the principal seat of Gilbert de Maminot, a Norman baron, in the time of William the First: some of his family erected a castle here ; some remains of which, according to Mr. Hasted, were visible near Sayes Court, on the bank of the Thames, near the Mast Dock. Deptford contains two hospitals, belong- ing to the Trinity-House : the old one was built in the reign of Henry the Eighth, and rebuilt in 1788, when the number of apartments were increased : this structure joins the church-yard of St. Nicholas. The new hospital is in Church-Street, has fifty-six apart- ments, and forms a spacious quadrangle, with the statue of Captain Maples in the centre : a plain build- ing, on the east side, serves as Chapel and Hall, to rrr~ ^ WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 347 which the brethren of the Trinity-House resort, an- nually, on Trinity Monday, in procession, and after- wards go to St. Nicholas* Church. This church abounds with monuments. St. Paul's, Deptford, is a very beautiful stone edi- fice, highly ornamented; but the Dock Yard and the Victualling Office are immense establishments, and of course worth inspection. Greenwich is the next object of curiosity, and is first mentioned in ancient English history for being the head- quarters of the Danes, and the harbour of their fleet, when they ravaged the country. Green- wich, at a very early period, became a favourite resi- dence of the sovereigns of England. Edward the Fourth took great delight in enlarging and finishing the palace, which, in the reign of Henry the Seventh, | was beautified with a brick front towards the river. Henry the Eighth exceeded his predecessors in deco- rating this palace, which caused Leland, the anti- quary, to exclaim. How bright this lofty seat appears, Like Jove’s great palace, pav’d with stars ; What roofs, what windows, charm the eye ! What turrets, rivals of the sky ! What constant springs, what smiliDg meads ; Here Flora’s self in state resides. And all around her doth dispense Her gifts, and pleasing influence. Greenwich was the birth-place of Queen Mary the First, and Queen Elizabeth; and here Edward the Sixth died. The palace, however, being afterwards suffered to run to ruin, was pulled down by Charles the Second, who began a magnificent edifice, and only 348 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. lived to see the first wing finished. Charles also enlarged the park, and erected the Royal Observatory on the top of the hill for the use of the celebrated Flamstead, whose name it retains. Mary, the queen of William the Third, was the first who proposed converting this building of Charles the Second into an hospital, and the placing of disabled English seamen and widows here, with their children. The hospital first began to receive disabled seamen, on the present plan, in 1737. Since this noble structure has been com- pleted, the front to the Thames consists of two ranges of stone, with the Ranger's house at the back part, in the centre ; the wings between which, in a large area, are terminated by very superb domes, one hundred and twenty feet high. In each front to the Thames their pediments are supported by two ranges of coupled Corinthian columns, and of the same order are the pilasters along the building. The front is rusticated, and there are two series of windows. The domes are supported on coupled columns as are the porticos below ; and under one of these is the Chapel, a beautiful structure, which, with its ornaments cost 84,000/. A college, or alms-houses, at the east end of the town, for the maintenance of twenty decayed old house-keepers, is called The Duke of Norfolk's College. The new church of St. Alphage, in the High-Street, is a handsome stone fabric. Proceeding by Blackheath, on the north side of the great road, near the five mile stone, at the west end of Chocolate- Row, is a delightful lawn, named The Point, which is one of the richest prospects that the ima°j- nation of the poet or painter can conceive. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 349 At the north-east corner of the heath, almost joining Maize Hill, are Vanbrugh Fields, so called from Sir John Vanbrugh’s whimsical house, resembling a for- tification, with towers and embattlements, and a gate- way of a like construction. Through Charlton and Hanging Wood, we proceed to Woolwich, so celebrated for its dock-yard, the warren, barracks, &c. Shooter’s Hill joins Woolwich Common, and from the summit of this is a fine view of London, Essex, Surrey, and even a part of Sussex. Upon its brow is an elegant tower, surrounded by a neat plantation on a sloping lawn and gravelled walks. This far-seen monumental tow’r Records th’ achievements of the brave; And Angria’s subjugated pow’r, Who ■plundered on the eastern wave. An inscription over the entrance expresses that this building was erected by the representative of the late Sir William James Bart, to record the conquest of the Castle of Severndroog, on the coast of Malabar, in April 1755. The parish of Frith is graced with several seats; but one of the most conspicuous is Belvidera House, be- longing to Lord Eardley, commanding the river Thames and the opposite shores of Essex. Erith Church is ancient, and consists of three aisles and three chancels. To the south of Northumberland Heath, the tract of land called The Crai/s is supposed to be the most beautiful spot in the county of Kent. H H 350 WALKS THROUGH LONDON* Two miles from Crayford is Dartford , which takes its name from the Darent. Here are several vestiges of an abbey, which, with its environs, covered a large , extent of land, and a burial-ground considerably higher than the tops of the houses. Having passed the Crays, we return to Eltham, on the high road to Maidstone. Here stood a palace, for several centuries a favourite retreat of the English sovereigns. This was most probably built before 1270, when Henry the Third kept his great Christmas here. It was also the birth-place of John of Eltham, son of Edward the Second. Edward the Fourth repaired it at a great expense; and, in the year 1403, kept his Christmas here ; when two thousand persons were daily fed at his charge : his daughter, Bridget, after- wards a nun at Dartford, was born here. In the Beauties of England it is observed, — “ The change which the palace of Eltham has undergone is exceedingly striking. This edifice, the abode of sove- reigns, and the birth-place of princes, is now a farm ; and the beautiful great hall where parliaments were held, and entertainments given in all the pomp of feudal grandeur, is used as a barn for the housing and threshing of corn. The area in which the build- ing stands is surrounded by a high stone wall, that has been partially repaired and strengthened by arches, &c. of brick, and a broad and deep moat, over which are two bridges, nearly opposite to each other, on the south and north sides. The hall is a most noble remain, measuring one hundred feet in length by fifty-six broad, and about sixty high. The win- dows have been extremely elegant, but are now bricked walks through London. 351 lip. The roof is of timber, and curiously wrought in the manner of Westminster Hall, and richly orna- mented with finely-carved pendants. Three parks, well provided with deer, and including together up- wards of one thousand two hundred acres, were formerly connected with this palace.” — The road from London to Eltham lies through Leigh and Lewisham. Returning to the Gravesend road, we arrive at Greenhithe, which has a ferry into Essex for horses and cattle, and is famous for its large chalk pits ; and hence, through Northfleet, we arrive at Gravesend . Opposite to this town is Tilbury Fort , built by Henry the Eighth to prevent misfortunes similar to those which occurred in 1380, when this town was burnt, and several of the inhabitants carried away by the French, who came up the Thames in row boats. This town derives much of its emolument from the nume- rous parties of pleasure who go there by water from London in the summer season. 352 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. WALK II. From Streatham to Clapham, Tooting, Mitcham, Merton, Croyden, Addington, Ezvel, Epsom, Letherhead , Box Hill, Mickleham, Egham and Cooper’s Hill, Chertsey, St. Anne’s Hill, Weyhridge, Oatlands, Kingston, Richmond, Kexv, Brentford, Keiv Priory, and East Sheen. In our excursions into Surrey, our present walk will begin from Streatham, five miles from London, on the road to Croydon. The church at Streatham was built at different periods, and its tower, supporting a small spire, is seen at a great distance. Here are two tablets, with Latin inscriptions, written by the late Dr. Johnson, to the memory of Mr. Thrale, and Mrs. Salisbury, Mrs. Thrale’s mother. During Mr. Thrale’s life. Dr. Johnson was frequently an inmate of the mansion at Streatham Park. This house, formerly in the possession of Gabriel Piozzi, Esq. who married Mr. Thrale’s widow, was sold in the summer of 1816, with all its furniture, library, and pictures. The portraits, including those of nearly all the distinguished visitors of Streatham House, were thus disposed of by Mr. Squibb’s hammer : The Portrait of Lord Sondes, thirty-five guineas ; Lord Lyttleton, forty-one; Mr. Murphy, ninety-eight; Dr. Goldsmith, one hundred and twenty-seven ; Sir Joshua Reynolds, one hundred and twenty-two ; Sir Robert Chambers, eighty ; Mr. Garrick, one hundred and seventy-five ; . WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 353 Mr. Baretti, eighty-two; Dr. Burney, eighty; Mr. Burke, two hundred and forty; and Dr. Johnson, three hundred and sixty. The library consisted of | about three thousand volumes of the best authors, which sold well ; but none of them being scarce, there were no remarkable prices. Adjoining to Streatham is Clapham, about four miles from Westminster Bridge: the village consists of handsome houses, surrounding a common, which is so beautifully planted with trees that it resembles a park. This parish probably received its name from one of its ancient proprietors, Osgood Clappa, being the name of the Danish lord at whose daughter’s marriage-feast Hardicanute died. Next to Clapham, on the road to Epsom, is Tooting, another pleasant village. The road to the south leads to Mitcham : the beau- tiful stream, called The Wandle, runs through it, remarkable for its purity and transparency. On the entrance into Mitcham from Sutton is the villa of Mitcham Grove, formerly the residence of Lord Loughborough. The font in Mitcham Church is orna- mented with Gothic tracery, and resembles that of Mortlake, erected about the reign of Henry the Sixth. Nearly adjoining Mitcham and Tooting is Merton on the Wandle, the parish church of which was built of flints, early in the twelfth century, by the founder of the abbey, near it. From the style of architecture, the present church seems the original structure. The bridge over the river is remarkable for its arch, which is turned with tiles, instead of brick, or stone, and is h h 2 354 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. the boundary of the three parishes of Mitcham, Wim- bledon, and Merton. To the south of Merton is Mordon, the seat of the late Abraham Goldsmid, Esq. ; and the parish church, dedicated to St. Laurence, is a picturesque object, with pointed windows. Croydon stands on the edge of Banstead Downs, and is a handsome market-town. The Archiepiscopal Palace here was founded near the site of a royal resi* dence, which the king bestowed upon the archbishops of Canterbury. Near this place Archbishop Whitgift, whom Queen Elizabeth used to call her little black husband, built and endowed a beautiful hospital for the poor, and a school. The old Archbishop’s Palace, being sold in 1780, is now let to tenants, who carry on the calico printing manufactory on the spot : the garden is used as a bleaching ground. — Croydon Church is esteemed one of the largest and most hand- some structures in the county, and contains some remarkable tombs. Addiscombe Place, in this neighbourhood, is a hand- some seat, the residence of the Earl of Liverpool. Harling-House and Park were the property of Charles Howard, Lord High Admiral in the reign of Elizabeth. Addington is a village three miles to the east of Croydon, and near it is a small cluster of tumuli, about twenty-five in number. The church, partly rebuilt about the time of Edward the Third, is a very small structure. In the adjoining parish of Sandersted is Purley , which will be remembered as the residence of John Horne Tooke, Esq. from the circumstance of his learned WALKS THROUGH LQNDON. 355 grammatical work written there, entitled, " The Diver- sions of Purley.” Pursuing a westward direction, we come to The Oaks, the villa of the Earl of Derby, on Banstead Downs, and built by a society of gentlemen, called The Hunter’s Club. It commands a prospect of Nor- wood, Shooter’s Hill, & c. At the west end is a large brick building, with towers at each corner, which renders the structure uniform, and gives it a Gothic appearance.' It is said that his lordship can accommo- date his guests with more than fifty bed-chambers. To the north-west of Banstead is Ewel, whence we proceed to Epsom. Here, it is said, are so many fields, meadows, orchards, gardens, &c. that a stranger would be at a loss to know whether this was a town built in a wood, or a wood surrounded by a town. There are many fine seats in the neighbourhood of this once-celebrated place. Ashted and Letherhead come next within our obser- vation. The roads to Guildford and Brighton lay through the latter place ; but Box-Hill, only three miles distant, affords the strongest inducement for a traveller to visit it. Its prospects are so extensive, and its situation so romantic, that not to see and walk down it would be an error unpardonable. Opposite to this hill are the heights of Norbury Park. The west and north views of Box-Hill overlook a large part of Surrey and Middlesex; and from its summit, in a clear day, it affords a prospect over part of Kent and Surrey, and the whole of Sussex quite to the South Downs, near the sea, distant thirty-six miles. Advancing to the part called the Quarry, upon the ridge of the hill that runs towards Mickleham, we look down from a vast and 856 WALKS THROUGH LONUGjf. almost perpendicular height upon a well-cultivated Vale, and see the river Mole winding close to the bottom of the mountain, as if directly tinder our feet, though it is really at a great distance. In fact, Box-Hill is is about five miles from Dorking, on the road to Horsham. We pass over an obscure part of Surrey, and, cross- ing the Thames, proceed through Bagshot to Egham, and Cooper’s Hill , immortalized by Sir John Denham. Here bis first lays majestic Denham sung, There the last numbers flow’d from Cowley’s tongue. The glory of Egham and its vicinity is Runnymede, where King John, after the mostshameful prevarication, w r as compelled by the Barons to sign Magna Chart a. Chertsey and St. Anne’s Hill are both memorable ; the first as the residence of Cowley the poet, and the latter as that of the late Right Honourable Charles James Fox. Covjay Stakes , about a quarter of a mile below the bridge over the Thames from Chertsey, is supposed by many to have been the spot where Julius Caesar crossed with the Roman army, when he led them into the kingdom of the British King Cassivelaunus ; but others think, with more probability on their side, that Caesar crossed the Thames on this occasion, near Chelsea. Coasting the Thames, we arrive at Weybridge , four miles from Hampton Court. Oatlands is a noble mansion, situated in the middle of a park, six miles in circumference. The Ser- pentine River,- though artificial, appears as if it was WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 357 natural; and a stranger, from the view of Walton - Bridge, would conclude it to be the Thames. Pain* s Hill and Cohham Park are the next objects of attention, and next to these Esher Place and Ember Court. At Kingston, the wooden bridge over the Thames is said to be nearly as ancient as London-Bridge. The first construction of the church seems to be of the age of Richard the Second. The barn belong- ing to Canbury-House was so spacious that twelve teams might unload at once. It had four entrances, four threshing-floors, and was supported by several pillars. To describe the beauties of Richmond, to which we next proceed, our pen is totally inadequate. The prospect from the hill has inspired many poetical flights, but few equal to Thomson in his Seasons : Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around d building still remains, particularly some wooden cloisters, which, though by no means an uncommon appendage to an old house, has occasioned a tradition that this was a cell to the Priory> or at least a former residence of the monks. An arched way, now stopped up, from the house to the end of the terrace in the garden, has given rise to the usual stories of Monkish intrigues. It appears by Norden's f Survey of Middlesex/ that Lord Chief Justice Popham, in his time, resided at Fryarn Manor. The late worthy owner had some portraits there of the Bacon family ; among whom were the Chancellor, the Lord Keeper, and one said to be Roger Bacon. He had also the original cast of Roubiliac's bust of Han- del; over which was placed a portrait of Charles Jennens, Esq. who compiled the words of many of his Oratorios." Hadley, adjoining High Barnet, is a very pleasant village. The church is ancient, and is supposed to stand upon the highest ground of any in England. From the church-yard are fine prospects over Enfield Chase, the Thames, and the county of Essex; and on the top of the tower is a beacon. Passing on to Cheshunt : here is a plain brick edifice, in which Cardinal Wolsey is said to have resided. It WALKS THROUGH LONDON: 367 has been nearly rebuilt since his time ; but is still surrounded by a deep moat. In the upper part of this house, called Cheshunt-House, is a room, the door of which is stained with blood ; the tradition is — an unfortunate lady became a victim to the Cardinal's jealousy, and that he dispatched her with his own hand. If so, it is unaccountable that the murderer should have suffered those marks of his violence to have remained. Cheshunt Nunnery was situated to the east of the high road ; a very small part of it remains, belong- ing to the residence of Mrs. Blackwood, used as a kitchen. The river Lea forms a canal in the front of the house, and a beautiful vista is terminated by a view of Waltham Abbey. Near Cheshunt is Theobalds ; and here the magni- ficent house, built by William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, afterwards became the residence of James the First, who died here in March 1625. The last remains of this palace was pulled down in 1766. It stood at the south-east corner of what is called Theobald’s-Square. The late George Prescot, Esq. erected the handsome brick edifice, now called Theobald’s. Cheshunt Church is a spacious Gothic building, consisting of a centre and two aisles, built in the reign of Henry the Sixth ; this, and the church-yard, contain some curious monuments. Waltham Cross is a hamlet of Cheshunt parish, and is about eleven miles from London : this remnant of antiquity is in a very dilapidated state. Crossing into the county of Essex from hence, we visit Waltham Abbey, or Holy Cross, about twelve miles from 368 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. London, where a few beautiful fragments of the abbey still remain, in a style of architecture much later than that of the church, particularly a Gothic arch, which formed the entrance, and terminated a noble vista of trees, which no longer exist. Adjoining to this gate, the porter’s lodge still remains. King Harold, and his two brothers, after being slain in the Battle of Hastings, were interred at the east end of the ancient church. A plain stone is said to have been laid over Harold, with this expressive epitaph, that north of this spot, near the town of Caswallan, was situated the wood once known by the name of Burgha ; and on the east, it is expressed, that near this place a town formerly sood, strongly fortified by art and nature, belonging to the Suellani, who under their general Cassivellan, defeated the Romans. The west front is said to face the ancient residence of the Cassii, now Cassiobury. Edgetvare is eight miles from London, on the road to St. Albans, Aylesbury, &c. The stillness of this place was considerably relieved by a kind of fair held here, in August 1816, when it was observed, that though the sale of horses and other cattle, was ex- tremely dull, there were, however, a few merry souls present, who kept the game alive; and each evening presented a series of humorous amusements, such as wheeling barrows blindfolded for a new hat; jumping in sacks for a smock-frock; grinning through horse collars for a pair of new shoes ; and climbing a lofty pole for a shoulder of mutton ; which afforded no inconsiderable amusement to a very numerous atten- dance of the respectable families in the neighbourhood. This was to be the prize of him who first reached it. Many attempted this apparently easy task, but on reaching about half way up the pole, they found the upper part thickly covered with cart-grease, above which, from its slippery nature, they could not travel. This discovery suggested to an artful boy a means of counteracting this impediment, and filling the tail of his smock-frock with sand, after various attempts he succeeded in completely doing away the effects of the grease with the sand, and thereby gaining his object. 380 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. which he carried off amidst the cheers of the crowd. This is the diversion which in France is known by the appellation of Mats de Cocagne , when ducks are exhi- bited on these poles, and is the first instance of its introduction here. Harrow on the Hill is ten miles from London, and is so called on account of its situation, and is further distinguished by its lofty spire. The Free School, at this place, ranks among the first British seminaries of learning. Crossing the Ed g ware road, we approach the exten- sive and pleasant village of Hendon and Mill-Hill. Goldar’s Hilly just by, was the residence of Dr. Akenside, author of the “ Pleasures of Imagination.” Hampstead Heath also exhibits several fine views of the metropolis and the distant country. This parish is bounded by Hendon, Finchley, Pancras, Wilsdon, and Paddington. The Priory of Kilhurn arose from a hermitage, built in the reign of Henry the First, by Godwin, a hermit, which he gave to three nuns, Emma, Christina, and Gunhilda, and this afterwards became a nunnery ; but though no remains of it exist, its site is very dis- cernable in Abbey Field, nearly adjacent to the Tea Gardens, called Kilburn Wells. From Paddington we proceed to Bayswater, one mile on the Uxbridge road ; and through Kensington to Holland-House, the ancient mansion of the Manor of Abbots, Kensington , and of which the celebrated Addison became possessed, in 1716, by his marriage with the Countess Dowager of Warwick. The Royal Palace of Kensington, the next object. FuiUshed ty WCZarke New fiend Sired Oat.udifi. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 381 is a large irregular edifice of brick, built at various times. The state apartments are very noble, and con- sist of a suite of twelve rooms. The first ascent is by the great staircase, in which are painted balconies. The paintings here, in the different apartments, are too numerous for a recital within our limits. Proceeding to Hampton- Court, the royal palace naturally strikes the eye, in all its magnificence. We can only mention that this structure consists of three quadrangles ; the first and second are Gothic ; but in the third are the royal apartments, built of brick and stone, by Sir Christopher Wren, by order of William the Third. The park and gardens, on which the palace now stands, are three miles in circumference. The delightful village of Twickenham, ten miles and a quarter from the metropolis, is adorned with many beautiful seats. The house that was once the residence of the celebrated Mrs. Clive adjoins the wood belonging to Strawberry Hill, the admired villa of the late Earl of Orford, better known in the literary world as Horatio Walpole ; lately that of Mrs. Darner. It was first built by the Earl of Bradford's coachman, in 1698: it now appears in the Gothic style, within and without, according to several models of cathedrals in different parts of the kingdom. The windows also are orna- mented with stained glass. Great taste is displayed in the elegant embellishments, and in the choice collection of pictures, sculptures, antiquities, &c. many of them purchased from some of the first cabinets in Europe. The approach to the house through a grove of lofty trees ; the embattled wall, overgrown with ivy ; the spiral pinnacles, and the gloomy cast of the building, give it the air of an ancient abbey, especially on enter- 382 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. ing the gate, where a small oratory, enclosed with iron rails, and a cloister behind it, appears in the fore court. At Twickenham Park, the seat of Lord Frederick Cavendish, the great Lord Bacon spent much of the early part of his life ; and this place was till lately the residence of the French Duke of Orleans. After crossing the road to Hounslow, we return by Islezvorth, a pleasant village on the bank of the Thames, eight miles and a half from Hyde-Park Corner. This neighbourhood abounds with market gardeners. Returning to the great road, the first object of atten- tion is Sion-House, one of the seats of the Duke of Northumberland, a large venerable majestic structure, built of white stone, in the form of a hollow square, so that it has four external and as many internal fronts, the latter of which surround a square court in the middle. The roof is surrounded with indented battle- ments ; and upon every one of its four outward angles is a square turret, fiat roofed, and embattled like the other parts of the building. The house is three stories high; and the east front, which faces the Thames, is supported by arches, forming a fine piazza. Old and New Brentford present very little that is interesting to a tourist for pleasure. Proceeding to Chiswick, Grove-House, the occa- sional residence of his grace the Duke of Devonshire, built by the Earl of Burlington, in the reign of Queen Anne, has all the attributes of a princely dwelling, and is a model of taste, though not without faults, such as doors misplaced, chimneys between windows, &c. The church of Chiswick, which stands near the Thames, is supposed to have been built about the beginning of the fifteenth century. The church-yard contains the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 383 remains of Hogarth and some elegant epitaphs, written by the late Mr. Arthur Murphy. Adjoining to Chiswick is Hammersmith, four miles from London, and a nunnery which took its name from a Mrs. Bedingfield and another lady setting up a boarding-school for young ladies of the Roman Catholic persuasion, and from their gradual introduction of the observance of monastic rules. Here is a chapel, and another also of the same persuasion at Brook Green, with a Roman Catholic Charity-School. Brandenburgh-House is a celebrated villa, seated on the Thames at Hammersmith, and was long the resi- dence of the Margravine of Anspach. Parson’s Green, Walhunt Green, and Fulham, are remarkably pleasant ; at the latter is a bridge commu- nicating with Putney. The bishops of London have had a palace at Fulham from a very early period ; but it has received many repairs since the time of Henry the Seventh : the gardens are curiously laid out, and are very extensive. Fulham, like its neighbouring districts, abounds in charitable foundations of various kinds. Coming to Chelsea, the Hospital is the first object of the attention of visitors. This edifice was begun in 1682, but not completed till 1690, by Sir Christopher Wren. Its general appearance is plain, yet not inele- gant, as the architect seems to have avoided all super- fluous ornament, in order to save expense. The structure isof elegant brick-work; the quoins, cornices, pediments, are of free-stone. The chapel and the hall are well dis- posed ; the colonade and portico, towards the river, are handsome and well proportioned, and aflord a comfort- able sheltered walk, and communication between the two 384 walks through London. wings for the pensioners in wet weather. The hospital consists of three courts ; the principal one is open to the south side. In the centre is a bronze statue of the royal founder, Charles the Second, in a Roman habit. The south side is also ornamented with a handsome portico of the Doric order, and a colonade continued along the whole of it : this side is divided into a chapel, a hall, and, in the centre, a large vestibule, terminated by a cupola of considerable height. On each side of the chapel are the pews for the various officers of the house ; the pensioners sit in the middle on benches. The north front is handsome and extensive ; and about fourteen acres of ground, opposite to it, forms an enclosure of about fourteen acres, planted with ave- nues of limes and horse-chesnuts. The principal grand entrance is by two iron gates of elegant work-? manship and great height, ornamented on each side by lofty stone pillars, surrounded with military trophies. This entrance is also ornamented with two handsome porters’ lodges. In the burial-place, to the east of the hospital, are several tombs and monuments in memory of the governors, lieutenant-governors, and other of- ficers of the establishment. The Royal Military Asylum , for the children of the soldiers of the regular army, is near the Royal Hospital, and adjoining the King’s Road. This building, is environed on all sides with high walls, and a handsome iron railing before the grand front. This edifice, built of brick, forms three sides of a quadrangle, with an elegant stone balustrade. The centre of the western front has a noble portico of the Doric order, and a well-proportioned pediment, consisting of four im- mense columns, supporting a large pediment; on the WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 385 ! frieze of which is inscribed — “ The Royal .Military Asylum for the Children of the Soldiers of the Regular Army.” Over this inscription are the royal arms. Here are seven hundred boys, and three hundred girls; the I boys wear red jackets, blue breeches. &c. and the girls red gowns, blue petticoats, straw bonnets, white aprons, &c. Passing from Sloane-Street, we come into the great western road ; and, by the Cannon Brewery, arrive at Knightsbridge. The chapel here is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and originally belonged to a Lazar House. Hyde Park is on the south side of Knightsbridge, and has long been a favourite place for taking the air> exhibiting fine coaches, fine horses, and expert horse- manship ; it is also the theatre of military evolutions in the review of the troops. In Grosvenor -Place is the Lock Hospital for syphilitic maladies. Near Hyde-Park Corner, on the south side of the road, stands St. George’s Hospital, for patients and complaints of every description ; a very neat, though rather a plain building. The grand western entrance here into the metropolis is marked by an ascent from Knightsbridge to the turnpike at Hyde- Park Corner, which at night exhibits an uncommon degree of lustre from the several lamps, at once use- ful and ornamental. The road into Piccadilly is bounded on the north and south sides by stately dwellings, and the railing of St. James’s Park, which, contrasted by the fine land- scape intervening between this park and the Surrey hills, form a tout ensemble equally agreeable and in- L L S86 WALKS THROUGH LONDON, tcresting. Among these dwellings is the Pulteney Hotel, a handsome stone edifice, with a balustrade and bal- cony before it, from which the Emperor of Russia shewed himself to the public within a few minutes after his arrival there, on the 6th of June, 1814. Being compelled to be thus brief in our sketches of the country surrounding the metropolis, we shall only remark respecting the western environs, that which way soever we turn ourselves, there are many striking- beauties ; and this boundary, especially towards the Thames, exhibits the appearance of a continual garden, with extensive nurseries of trees of various kinds; while the sides of the roads being enlivened by meadows and genteel residences of every description, the whole j forms a picture of ease and happiness highly gratify- ing. Respecting the north side of the metropolis, it has been observed, “ that the amphitheatre on that side of the Thames is greatly enhanced in beauty by a chain of hills, forming a second amphitheatre enclosing the first, of which Hampstead and Highgate, and Muswell Hill, are the most prominent. The eastern and western extremities afford the prospect of a level country, stretching thirty miles each on the banks of the Thames ; but on the south the landscape is beauti- fully varied to a considerable line of extent, including the high grounds of Richmond, Wimbledon, Epsom, Norwood, and Blackheath. The eastern boundary is 1 terminated by Shooter’s Hill, Leith Hill, Box Hill, the I Riegate and Wrotharn Hills. The most picturesque parts of the county of Essex are perhaps Laingdon Hills, with West Lea, in the parish of Laingdon and Basildon, in the road from ' WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 387 Chelmsford to Tilbury Fort, twenty-two miles from London. The ascent on the north side is easy ; but on the south and south-west the traveller is astonished at the descent before him. Of this Mr. Young, in his Six Weeks Tour, says, “ Such a prodigious valley every where painted with the finest verdure, inter- sected with hedges and woods, appears beneath you, that it is past description. Nothing can exceed it unless that which TIannibal exhibited to his discon- solate troops when he bid them behold the glories of the Italian plains !” Viewing London nearer its eastern extremity, it has been observed, “ that the Custom-House, the Tower, and the Docks, only form a part of that grand coup d’ceil, which in a manner extends from Cuckold’s Point on the Kentish, and Perry’s Wharf on the Essex side of the river. From hence the passenger, directing his views down the Thames, it may seem like sailing in the midst of a vast inland lake, adorned with shipping of all sizes, and of the construction of almost every nation in the known world. The lofty buildings in the King’s Yard at Deptford, and the more magni- ficent view of Greenwich Hospital, screen it on one side; while, on the other, the view is interrupted by the Isle of Dogs. In the Upper Pool, about a mile and a half towards Wapping, Dawson’s Brewhouse, and Mr. Mellish’s slaughter-houses, are the first objects of attention with a stranger. On the opposite side lies Rotherhithe. Then entering the Lower Pool, we have been in the habit of finding ourselves among* such a number of ships that they resembled a labyrinth. At times, when it is customary to display their difie- 388 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. rent colours, these vessels exhibit a very gay appear- ance. Limehouse Reach used to be distinguished by several wind-mills, on the right hand shore of the Isle of Dogs. Opposite to these are the Victualling Office and the Red House at Deptford, the latter built of red brick, from whence it derived its name. Contemplating the riches of the Thames, an elegant poet exclaims : And see ! by fair Augusta’s stately towers, Pellucid Thames, his placid current pours : To pile her marts contending nations meet, The world’s productions ofF’ring at her feet. Whate’er of wealth in various regions shines. Glows in their sands, or lurks beneath their mines ; Whate’er from bounteous nature men receive, Whatever toil can rear, or art can weave ; Her princely merchants bear from every zone. Their country’s stores increasing with their own. Greenwich Reach lies in a semi-circle. Approaching this place, on our right hand, we pass a ship, in which boys are placed by the Marine Society, who have been found wandering about the streets of London, or are otherwise unprovided for. Blackivall Reach is the next arrival. On the left, we pass the Folly House Tea Garden , behind which the new docks appear. This tract, called the Isle of Dogs , as already mentioned in page 334, is a kind of penin- sula; but a canal cut across it forms a passage for shipping, and enables them to avoid the circuitous «nd inconvenient route round the point. Here are WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 389 also the Wet Docks, belonging' to J. Perry, Esq. and a building, one hundred and twenty feet in height, with a machine for masting and dismasting of ships. Woolwich is the next object of attention. Persons who wish to see the hulks, or the vessels moored off Woolwich, containing several hundred convicts, many of whom have hitherto been annually sent to New South Wales, can only have an opportunity of doing this by taking a boat at Billingsgate or the Tower. — The vessels on board which these convicts are confined, are easily distinguished, as they are all dismasted. The Royal Artillery Barracks lately erected, stand about two-thirds of a mile nearer the Thames than the Royal Military Academy, and also about one hundred feet above the high-water mark in the river. The length of the south front is about three hundred and fifty yards ; this forms one side of an extensive qua- drangle, of which the east front commands all the rich scenery of Shooter’s Hill. The artillery quartered here form a fluctuating body of from two to three thousand men. Close to the Barrack-field is some fine broken ground enclosed, and called the Repository, under the superintendance of the late General Sir William Congreve. In the summer season, between April and November, a great variety of military operations and evolutions are to be seen at Woolwich. Woolwich Reach immediately succeeds Bugsby’s Hole : entering this Reach the hulks before-mentioned appear, on board of which the transports are stationed. Sometimes the convicts are employed in work on shore in the Warren or Gun-park, and at other times in clearing the sand banks. l l 2 390 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. On the right bank of the river, called the Gallions, there is a house (once a public-house) called in derision, the Devil’s blouse. Barking Reach succeeds, on a sand at the entrance of which lies a buoy, as a direc- tion to avoid the wreck of the Grampus man of war. Near the verge of the river are three small magazines, in which powder of the Dartfor.d manufacture is deposited : nearly opposite these is a small white thatched house, called Dagenham Breach House, in commemoration of a large Breach made here by the Thames, at the beginning of the eighteenth century ; behind which is a large pool, famous for fishing by gentlemen subscribers. Another turning of the river is called the Rands, with the village of Erith on one side, and Purfleet on the other. On the Essex side stands a small house, called Cold Harbour, and a mile from this, a public-house with a ferry, adjoining a creek that runs up to the village of Rainham, in Essex ; whence the spire of that church may now be seen. Long Reach is about four miles in length, contain- ing Greenhithe ; the church and village, when the trees are in verdure, appearing as in an orchard, affords one of the most luxuriant views imaginable. Fidlers Reach and North fleet Hope, are the names by which the river is distinguished between Long Reach and Gravesend Reach ; at the extremity of which the church of West Tilbury presents itself at the end of a green, on a rising ground. Gad’s Hill, often mentioned by Shakspeare in his plays, may be seen here. On the right hand, Higham church appears. Lastly we enter Gravesend Reach, which forms a WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 391 noble sight with the ships and vessels generally found at anchor, whilst Kent and Essex, on each side, ex- hibit every symptom of safety and prosperity. As Gravesend is generally the extremity of most of the excursions made by water from London, those fashion- able ones to Margate, &c. excepted, we shall here leave our readers, referring them to the Picture of Margate, in which the Water Itinerary will afford them a companion and guide to the knowledge of al- most every object which presents itself upon the river between London Bridge and the More. A Review of the most recent and projected Improvements in and about the Metro- polis , with observations on the Ancient and Modern state of Architecture in Eng- land. In order to point out the improvements which have grown with the growth, and strengthened with the strength of this great city, it may only be necessary to refer to Mr. Lysons, who has furnished us with a minute account of the progress of the new buildings, particularly in the parish of Marybone. Marybone was once a small village, nearly a mile from any part of the metropolis-. In 1717, or the next year, m2 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. the ground was first laid out for Cavendish-Square, the circle in the centre inclosed and surrounded with a parapet wall and palisades. The Duke of Chandos, then Earl of Carnarvon, Lord Hareourt, and Lord Bingley were among the first that: took ground to build here, and the rest was let to builders, who, though checked by the failure of the South Sea scheme, were induced to go on by the proposal for building a chapel and a market : Mr. Gibbs furnished the design, and they were both finished in 1724. The row of houses on the north side of Tybourn Road was completed in 1729, and it was then called Oxford- Street. Soon after, the ground was laid out for a number of good streets, which have increased on the north and the west of Oxford-Street, to Paddington and Pancras on one side, and to Edgware-Road on the other. To all the attractions of external splendour, it is not too much to say that every internal convenience has been added. Turning towards Somers Town , we come to an entirely new range and mass of buildings, called Judd-Street, Tunbridge-Place, &c. Here is a new Chapel for Cal- vinistic Dissenters ; and the whole neighbourhood of Tottenham Court Road, and from thence to the Regent's Park and Paddington, presents a new and increasing suburb to the city. On the western side of Tottenham Court Road, nearly in the angle formed by the end of this, and part of the new road, is Fitzroy- Square, not yet completed. The hou&es are faced with stone, and have a greater proportion of architectural embellish- ments than most others in the metropolis : they were designed by the Messrs. Adams. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 393 In this neighbourhood, in Tottenham-Street, Tot- tenham Court Road, is the Regency Theatre, distin- guished by its elegant portico, formed by a range of square stone pillars. The whole extent of this edifice, which appears in the street, the entrance excepted, is blank, but embellished with pilasters, &c. At present it is principally used for astronomical and mechanical exhibitions, and thus partakes of that desertion which has more or less affected all the theatres in the metro- polis since the late peace. Near this spot, in the court before the house, No. 178, in Tottenham Court Road, the curious may still be gratified by a piece of sculpture, being the representa- tion of a man upon a pedestal, in a sitting position, playing upon the bag-pipes. This is understood to have been the work of the elder Cibber, at a time when that artist resided near St. Andrew’s Church, Holborn. Portland- Place is one of the finest streets in Europe. It was intended to form the opening to the new street next to the Regent’s Park and Mary-la-bone Park. The north end of this street is terminated by an iron railing and a gate, which separated it from a field, extending to the New Road. That field is now a garden and a .shrubbery, enclosed on all sides by handsome railing, corresponding with that which encloses the Regent’s Park on the other side of the road. The new part of the street commences with a crescent on each side of the way, which is not finished, and the works have been so long in this half-built state, that grass has grown on the top of the walls, reaching, in some places, not higher than the kitchen windows. The houses nearest to Port- land Place are entirely raised and covered in, but 394 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. Since the peace, are fast returning' to their pristine mould, as the wood work is rapidly decaying, from exposure to the weather : the fronts, as far as completed, have a very neat colonade of double Ionic pillars, with a balus- trade and a balcony. Many of the houses on this spot have pediments ; and those with this addition face each other all the way on both sides of the street : the inter- mediate houses, without pediments or pilasters, are Tuscan or Doric. The new parish church of St. Mary la Bonne, near this spot, now completed, and opened for divine service, is beyond all doubt one of the handsomest structures of the kind. The north front is extremely rich and elegant, and consists of a noble portico of the Composite order, supported by eight rich pillars, and two pilasters, with a handsome balus- trade, extending round the whole of the church. The steeple is of exquisite workmanship ; a square rustic tower supports a beautiful cupola, raised on Corinthian pillars, on the capitals of which are eight angels, sup- porting another cupola : on its summit is a small open- work tower and vane. The inside of this edifice is superb. The roof of the church is just visible above the balustrade : the body is brick, covered with Roman cement ; the steeple and portico of stone. The north- east and west corners have each two composite columns and pilasters ; between these pilasters are niches, and above them an architrave and cornice. Mary la Bonne Church was consecrated, in the year 1817, by the Bishop of London, in the presence of a great number of persons of distinction. The organ is placed at the back of the altar, and in the centre of the organ is an open arch, in which is placed a very fine ' Mlzshed ty VSSarSeWewJSmd Street SlprUuSiy. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 395 picture, painted by Benjamin West, Esq. President of the Royal Academy : the subject is, the Angel of the Lord appearing to the Shepherds. The Regent’s Park is very extensive, and though it is not likely to receive a speedy completion, it is one of the greatest Sunday promenades about town. An immense sewer, extending from hence to the river Thames, is in great forwardness. A new chapel, at the northern extremity of this park, is a very elegant build- ing. The canal adds considerably to the beauty and verdure of this delightful place. With the showy improvements, or rather, the altera- tions that were intended to connect the communication between Carlton House and the Regent’s Park, some extravagant ideas were evidently connected ; “ Circusses were to be made where the new connecting street was to cross Piccadilly and Oxford-Road.” The reason given for which by Mr. Nash, the surveyor, was, “ that it would avoid the sensation of passing Oxford-Street, and insensibly unite the two divisions of the city.” The given estimate of the expense of this intended street was 300,000/. ; but there was no doubt that it would cost a great deal more. The imperious neces- sity of retrenchment, however, has altered this plan, and-the new street therefore is to be no farther proceeded in than Piccadilly: it will be continued so far with facades of Ionic columns in plaster, corresponding with those in the square opposite Carlton House. The two lodges will be erected on the east and west of the Regent’s Palace. The screening colonade of the latter will be taken down, and some light description of rail- ing or balustrade be substituted in its place. On the 15th of July 1816, orders were positively 39G WALKS THROUGH LONDON. issued to stop the improvements north of Piccadilly. The perspective from Carlton House, is to extend only to the intended crescent in Piccadilly. St. James’s Market and the houses in Jermyn-Street, which inter- sect the view, are to be removed. The new United Service Club House will be built on an extensive scale. The name of Waterloo-place has been given to the opening in front of Carlton House. The buildings here have been stuccoed, instead of being faced with Bath Stone, and are already of the shades between white and black, the smoky, and the dirty grey. Whether that side of Pall-Mall shall be a good thoroughfare, will depend upon the mode of pav- ing this place. To afford safety to walkers, it has been proposed, that the foot pavement should be so continued as to leave a space for carriages not wider than the breadth of Pall-Mall, and that to mark the distinction between the two pavements, lamps should be placed on stone pedestals. It is still understood that Oxford-Road will be con- tinued as far as Bayswater Brook, making it the longest street in Europe. When the new Post Office is finished the western mails are to go direct along Holborn, instead of passing Charing Cross and Piccadilly ; and a short cut is also to be made into the other western road angular from Shepherds Bush to Hammersmith. The old wall of Kensington Gardens on the Bays- water Road, has lately been repaired and lighted, the ditches drained, and an open gateway designed to be made, opposite the broad walk in Kensington Gar- dens, to give passengers a slight view of the beautiful grounds. But the absolute amelioration of a whole neighbour- WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 297 hood*, must be admitted in the change which took place on the site of Bedford Square and the adjacent new streets north of Broad St, Giles’s, by new and ele* gant erections, encroaching upon the vicinity of the {still wretched Dj/ot, or George- Street, Ba ht hr i dge -Street, Rats Castle, fyc. and a large space eastward of them, which, within the last threescore years, was most appro* priately styled the Ruins of St. Giles ; at that time mostly an open space, which had been occupied by % number of decayed dwellings. In Broad-Street, vulgarly Broad St. Giles’s, it should have been observed, stands the parish church of St, Giles in the Fields. The old church, taken down in 1730, gave place to the new fabric, built entirely of Portland stone. The outside of the church has a rustic basement, and the windows of the galleries have semi-circular heads, and over them, a modillion cor® nice. The steeple is one hundred and sixty-five feet high, and consists of a rustic pedestal, supporting a Doric order of pilasters ; and over the clock is an. octangular tower, with three quarter Ionic columns, supporting a balustrade, with vases, on which stands the spire, which is also octangular and belted. The interior js chaste and beautiful; the ornamented ceiling being one of the best in the metropolis. Before the ancient hospital, which stood here, the famous Sir John Old* castle. Lord Cobham, was gibbeted and burnt alive for his religious tenets. This was an act which disgraced the reign of Henry the Fifth, Among other accommodations in agitation for the benefit of this part of the metropolis, it is proposed to build a new fish-market, on the bank of the Thames* M M 398 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. west of Old Hungerford Market, now nearly fallen into disuse. Another material improvement is exhibited in Black Friars Road or Great Surrey-Street, near the corner of Holland-Street, in the application of iron in lieu of stone, as a substitute for pavement in the streets of this metropolis. This succedaneum consists of square pieces of cast iron suitably shaped, roughed and dove- tailed. This experiment, made in the summer of 1816, has succeeded so far, that it has been resolved to pave some streets in the city in this manner, and to begin with Wood-Street, Cheapside. It is computed that an iron pavement well adjusted will endure twenty years in a great thoroughfare ; whereas, it is too well known, that a stone pavement very frequently requires repairs, and a new adjustment. The pieces already laid down resemble a batch of eight or nine rolls, and are united like the parts of a dissected map, without interstices or even palpable joints,. From their sustaining every kind ©f load, and the roughest of usage, there is no -doubt of the ultimate success of this invention. This vicinity will probably receive considerable benefit from the erection of the Neiv Cobourg Theatre ■, in the centre of the New Cut, in the direct line of Waterloo Bridge, and distant from it about a quarter of a mile. On the exterior surface of the foundation the following inscription was cut. “ The first stone of the Royal Cobourg Theatre was laid Sept. 14, 1816, by his Serene Highness the Prince of Saxe Cobourg, and her Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte of Wales, by their Serene Highnesses* proxy, Alderman Gtoodbehere. WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 399 Extending 1 our views down the river, we find the improvements still more promising. An embankment in front of the New Custom House, in consequence of a fair adjustment between the City and the Govern- ment, through the medium of the Lord Mayor, has taken place. This is intended to increase the whar- fage there, and render more commodious the shipping, landing, and stowage of goods, and also the carriage way. Part of Billingsgate dock is to be taken in, and yet leave room enough for the fishing vessels, the fish- market is to be widened, and the landing stairs separated at the wharf, so as to render the facility of passengers taking boat more safe and comfortable than it has hitherto been. East of London, a new iron bridge is to form a communication between the Essex, and Kent roads. This bridge is to cross the Thames from New Gravel- Lane to Rotherhithe. Directing our attention again to the city, we observe the old north wall of London running behind the site of Old Bethlern Hospital, entirely taken down, which has thrown open to public view the area of the new square, enclosed with handsome iron railing. The wall was found uncommonly thick, and the bricks double the size of those now used. The centre had been filled in with large loose stones, &c. ; the line of wall now re* moved is partly the last vestige of that which remained of a circumference of three miles and two hundred and five yards. The immense increase of buildings about the eastern extremity of the City Road, is also astonishing. In the immediate vicinity of the Shepherd and Shepherd- ess, Chatham Gardens, lioxton New Town, Old-Street, Walks tHroUgH London. 4(H) kc. ‘the structures are sufficiently numerous to form a small city. To the westward^ in this road, The Disseftlers’ Work- ing School for Orphans, is a handsome building 1 , con* feisting of two wings, and a place of worship in the Centre, which is open to the public. The Quakers f Poor-House, which is very near the extremity of Goswell-Street, towards the City Road, is How exclusively appropriated to the maintenance and education of their children. The increase of new buildings in the eastern extre- mity of the metropolis, from Bethnal Green towards Bow and Stratford, is nearly equal to that of the west* ern in point of extent. The formation of the East and West India Docks has, in some measure, rendered this increase necessary here, as well as in the environs of Stepney, Limehouse, and Poplar. The rage for building has also suggested a new in- crease, which is intended to be made on the site of Spa Tields , this is understood to consist of several new Streets, which are designed to cover the’ whole, or the greatest part of that salubrious spot, commonly known by the name of the Pipe Fields, having Sadler's Wells on the east, Bagnigge Wells on the west, the new road On the north, and part of Clerkenwell on the south* The substitution of large iron pipes for those of wood, it is said, will enable the proprietors of this verdant and diversified tract, the last remains of the Rus in Urbe , to cover it with houses. Before quitting the subject of our new buildings, we must observe, that the late taste exhibited in the Suburbs has employed the wit of Mr. Colman, in his . 'Eccentricities , under the title of London Ruraltiy , WALKS THROUGH LONDON, 403 Stretching, round England's chief Emporium, far, (No rage for Building quench’d by raging War,) What would be Villas, rang’d in dapper pride. Usurp the fields, and choke the highway side! Peace to each swain, who rural rapture owns. As soon as past a toll, or off the stones ! Whose joy, if buildings solid bliss bestow. Cannot, for miles, an interruption know : Save when a gap, of some half dozen feet,. Just breaks the continuity of street ; Where the prig Architect, with style in view. Has dol’d his houses forth, in two by two ; And rear’d a Row upon the plan, no doubt. Of old mens’ jaws, with every third tooth out. Or where, still greater lengths of taste to go, He warps his tenements into a bow ; Nails a scant canvas, propt on slight deal sticks, Nick-nam’d Veranda , to the first-floor bricks ; Before the whole, in one snug segment drawn,. Claps half a rood of turf he calls a lawn ; Then chuckling at his lath-and-plaster bubble,. Dubs it the Crescent, — and the rents are double. As utility must be admitted to be superior to shew and embellishment, the completion of South wark-Bridge will be bailed as an excellent and substantial improve- ment. The greatest part of the iron-work is now de- livered in London, and the remainder will be ready for putting up in the course of the summer. The middle arch is two hundred and forty feet span, and the two side arches will be two hundred and ten feet each j the width of the road- way and foot paths between the para- pets will be forty-two feet, the same as Black Friar's Bridge. The south abutment, with the land arch over Bank side, is nearly completed, and ready to receive mm2 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. 403 the iron for that side arch, which will be the first put up. One of the two piers is completed up to above high water mark, and the other is finished to above low water* Among the benefits attending this undertaking are the following. It will greatly facilitate the commerce both of the London and Surrey side of the river, by dividing and lessening the superabundant traffic over London and Blackfriars Bridges, and prevent the occurrence of those injurious stoppages so frequent in the avenues near London -Bridge. It will cause a handsome street to be formed from Bankside to St. George’s Church, seventy feet wide and half a mile long, and thereby open a commodious passage from Kent and Surrey into the heart of Lon- don. It will add to the Borough a neighbourhood of respectability in the room of that of an inferior kind, which must be removed. By the proximity of the new street to the heart of the city, the Bank, Royal Exchange, Stock Exchange, Excise Office, Guildhall, &c. this part of Southwark may become a convenient residence for merchants, wholesale dealers, &c. This bridge is also admirably suited to the situation, as it will tend to remove the irregularity of shallows in this part of the river, by dividing the stream, and thereby directing the current into three regular channels, and consequently clear them of many of those sand-banks which now injure the navigation; and this it will effect in a greater degree, whenever London -Bridge, which caused these impediments, may be rebuilt or altered. However, that London is yet inferior to most capitals in architectural embellishments, is a remark made by WALKS THROUGH LONDON* 40*^ many, besides a classical writer of our own country, who has expressed a hope, “ that the British nation ere long will triumph over every obstacle, inspire artists with o-enius, and teach even brick to emulate marble.” Free stone is now most ardently recommended ; and it is observed, that the restoration of the exterior orna- ments of Westminster Abbey has been commenced with Bath stone; and acolonade at the Regent/s Circus, near Portland Place, and another before the Opera House, on the side of Pall Mall, have been erected with free- stone from Somersetshire. It is sincerely hoped that the erection of the New Post Office, near St. Martin’s Le Grand, will be made subservient to a better display of the Cathedral of St. Pauls. “ If both purposes can be accomplished by the same alteration, and the splendid effect given to that noble edifice, which space would confer, the value of the improvement would be doubled. Nothing, it must be acknowledged, can more sen- sibly evince the present state of improvement than the contrast which may still be made between our ancient and the more modern structures in various parts of this metropolis. To pass over the exceeding rude dwellings of our early forefathers, the buildings of the middle ages, with stories projecting beyond each other as they ascended, still remind us of the slow inarch of improvement during several ages. A few of them, besides those illustrated in this work, which exhibit a specimen of old London, remain about Bishopsgate and Leadenhall Streets, and particularly in Holy well-Street, in the Strand. However, it is probable that another half century will obliterate the remem- 404 WALKS THROUGH LONDON. brance of them from almost every testimony but page 190.— The Roman altar has recently been removed from Mr. Soane’s Court. Page 264, for “ Walk XI.” read “ Walk XIII.” Page 324, line 12, after 11 canaille,” read “ all.” Page 372, line 1 , for i( Tibury,” read “ Tilbury.” W. Wilson, Printer, 4, Greville-Street, London, Trinity House, 119. Twickenham, 381. Vauxhall, 339 ; Bridge, 340. Verulam, 364. Wallingford House, 221. Waltham Abbey, 367. Wanstead, 369. Ware, 363. Warwick Lane, 144. Waterloo Museum, 269. Place, 396, West Ham, 369. Westminster Abbey, 236. . f p I