. Digitized by the Internet Archive https://archive.org/details/yellowstonenatioOOwyli_O Ho ! for the G-reat WONDERLAND THE Northern Pacific Railroad Is the BEST ROUTE to tlie PULLMAN PALAGE SLEEPING GARS THE ENTIRE TRIP. For further particulars see chapter on ‘‘Ways of Beaching and Cost of Visiting the Park,” on page 95 of this book, or address G. K. BARNES, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, ST. PAUL, MINN. THE Yellowstone National Park, OR THE Great American W onderland, A New, Complete and Accurate Description of the NATIONAL PARK AND ALL ITS WONDERS, Written in the Order of a Tour by *-W. W. WYLIE, B. S., A. M> Who has Made Three Complete Tours of WONDERLAND FOE THE EXPRESS PURPOSE OF PREPARING A RELI- ABLE BOOK. To'urists who use this Book will find it unnecessary to employ Guides. Those who cannot visit the Park will find the Book an ex- cellent substitute. Sent to any address on receipt of price, $1.00, in Neat Cloth, Stiff Cover, or 75 cents, in Flexible Cloth. Send to W. W. WYLIE, BOZEMAN, M. T. Or the Publishers. ini PEARL POOLS, MAMMOTH SPRINGS. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK; OR THE GREAT AMERICAN WONDERLAND, A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE WONDERS OF THE PARK, TOGETHER WITH DISTANCES, AL- TITUDES, AND SUCH OTHER INFOR- MATION AS THE TOURIST OR GENERAL READER DESIRES. A COMPLETE HAND, OR GUIDE BOOK FOR TOURISTS. By W. W. WYLIE. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY H. B. COFFEE. KANSAS CITY, MO.: Publishing House of Ramsey, Millett & Hudson. 1882. Entered According to an Act of Congress, in the year One Thousand Eight Hundred and Eighty -Two, By W. W. WYLIE, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. PREFACE. This little book is not offered as a scientific descrip- tion of the National Park , nor is it written for an induce- ment to those who may read it to visit the Park, neither as the recital of the experiences of one who has visited this remarkable land, but for the following reason : — The author, in a tour of the Park, saw the very evi- dent need of a plain, simple hand-book to guide and aid the tourist in his rambles in Wonderland. All tourists do not feel able to hire guides ; and since plain roads are now open to all points of interest, what is needed, it seemed to the author, is a real guide-book. It :was during this first tour of Wonderland that the purpose was originated to try to prepare such a book. First, the author examined all the books he could find written about the National Park, whether intended for guide-books or not. But no real guide-book has he found; but several books, written by persons who had made hasty trips through this great Wonderland, were enraptured by what they found, and wrote to describe 4 Great American Wonderland. the marvelous wonders, and to give their own and their associates’ experiences. These books are indeed very interesting, but as guide-books they are failures, and doubtless never were intended to be used as such. Then, most of these books are old; and since the Park, through the enterprise and perseverance of the Superintendent, Col. P. W. Norris, has developed or brought to view so many new wonders within the past two years , such books must necessarily be out of date for the tourist of to-day. Having formed the purpose to write a guide and description book, the author made two more careful tours of the Park, in order to as thoroughly as possible fit himself for the task; and as he met hundreds of tourists in this land the present summer, many with- out guides at all, and others with grossly incompetent ones, he became all the more firmly convinced of the great need of just such a book as he has attempted to make of this little volume. How well he has succeeded, remains for those to say who have either visited the Park, and may read it, or who may see fit to take it with them as they go. Enthusiastic descriptions of objects and scenery have not been attempted. Occasionally, however, a fine de- scription is quoted from some other author, whose name is always found in connection. Great American Wonderland. 5 The author has observed, while witnessing very many people beholding for the first time these great wonders, that they like to form their own opinions and descriptions of what they see ; so he has endeavored to be very plain in his explanations, answering only those questions that are most likely to be put to a competent guide. The most the author hopes to hear said of his book is that it is plain , truthful , and practical. Compared with other literary productions on the same subject, he expects it to fall; compared with the great National Park and its wonders, he expects it to W. W. WYLIE. STAND. CONTENTS. Page. Preface 3. Introduction 9 Mammoth Hot Springs and Surroundings J3 Falls of Middle Gardner River 16 Departure from Mammoth Springs 16 Rustic Falls .....17 Willow Park — Fine Camp 17 Obsidian Cliff 18 Lake of the Woods 19 Norris Geyser Basin 19 Gibbon or Basin Meadows 21 Paint Pots and Blood Geyser 21 Monument Geyser Basin.. 22 Game in the Park. .......23 Gibbon Canon 24 Gibbon Falls 24 Lower Geyser Basin 26 Difficulty with Tourist 25 Fountain Geyser — Lower Basin 27 Mud or Paint Pots in Lower Basin 28 Middle Geyser Basin (Devil’s Half Acre) 29 Sheridan Geyser 31 Upper Geyser Basin .....31 Great American Wonderland. 7 Old Faithful Geyser ...32 The Castle 33 Devil’s Well 33 Bee-hive Geyser 35 Giantess Geyser 36 Lion, Lioness and Two Cubs 36 Grand Geyser 37 Saw-mill Geyser 39 Splendid Geyser 39 Comet... 40 The Grotto 41 Fan and Riverside ....41 The Giant 41 General View of Upper Basin 44 Smoke in the Park 45 Forests of Park.. 45 From Upper Basin to Lake 46 Shoshone Trail to Lake ...46 Hot Springs Camp on Lake 47 Yellowstone Lake ., 47 Drinking' Geyser Water ...48 Fish in Yellowstone Lake ..48 Natural Bridge 50 Road to Mud Geysers via Lower Basin and Mary’s Lake..... 51 Mud Geysers 51 Sulphur Mountain ... 53 Sulphur Mountain to Falls 55 Upper Falls of Yellowstone ..56 Lower Falls 57 8 Great American Wonderland. The Grand Cafion 59 Twin Falls and Safety Valve Geyser 63 Crystal Falls 64 Mount Washburn 64 Tower Falls 68 Baronet’s Bridge 70 Petrified Forest 70 East Gardner Falls...... 71 Hoodoo Basin .. 71 Specimen Mountain 72 Soda Butte Springs... 72 Theory of Causes of Geyser Action .73 Earliest Publications Concerning the Park ...74 The Yellowstone Park by Prof. Hayden ...79 Practical Observations 85 Table of Distances 89 Table of Altitudes 90 Rules and Regulations of the Park 91 Ways of Reaching and Cost of Getting to the Park 95 INTRODUCTION. All books, save one, that I have seen descriptive of the Park, begin with a description of the route from Bozeman. This has hitherto been considered the only natural route of entry to the Park. It is from this point that Prof. Hayden and other official and scientific visitors have entered, and Colonel Harris, the Superin- tendent of Park, outfits at Bozeman and enters from there. However, last season a road was opened into the Park direct from Virginia City, but I find tourists, generally, complaining greatly of an immense hill or mountain to be climbed by this route. From Virginia City to the Park is ninety-eight miles. From Bozeman to Mammoth Hot Springs is seventy-three miles ; the road following up the Yellowstone River being a pleasant and good one. For the following reasons the natural and most satisfactory way to visit the Park is to enter at Mammoth Hot Springs, and go around by the Geyser Basins, over to Lake, down by Falls and Canon, and back to Mammoth Springs, just as indicated in this Guide-book. The reasons are these: By this route all the objects of interest are seen in order of a climax, the less inter- esting after leaving Mammoth Springs first, and the 10 Great American Wonderland. more wonderful towards the last. In this way the tourist is always deeply interested, and fully appreciates what he sees; while if he enters at the upper end of Park, he sees the most wonderful first. These objects of lesser importance have very little interest to him afterwards, and are only seen with something of a disappointed feeling. The objects of interest, arranged in their natural order, and in the order seen as described in this book, are as follows : — First, the Mammoth Springs. This is by no means one of the minor objects of interest, but it is so entirely different from anything else seen in the Park that it will very appropriately come first. Then, too, it gives the tourist a wonderfully satisfied feeling to behold this marvelously beautiful wonder upon his very entrance to Wonderland. He is at once possessed with a satisfied feeling, confesses that he feels repaid already for the ex pense and trouble of the trip, and he is started on from here with a satisfied air. Next in their order are Rustic Falls, Obsidian Cliff, Lake of the Woods, Norris Geyser Basin, Paint Pots, Monument Geyser Basin, Gibbon Canon, Gibbon Falls, Lower Geyser Basin, and last, the great crown- ing point of all wonders, the Upper Geyser Basin. By this time the tourist experiences a full sense of satisfaction, so far as the wonderful is concerned. He feels a strong desire to witness what in the Park may be classed more accurately under the head of the grand and beautiful; so he is taken across to the Lake. He experiences a sense of relief at getting away from Great American Wonderland. 11 the odor and sight of so much hot water. From the rest and quietness at the Lake, he is taken to the Great Falls and Grand Canon. Here the sensation is that of quiet wonder and amazement, while at the Geysers it is that of excited wonder and delight. At the former place he desires, as he beholds, neither to speak nor be spoken to; while at the Geysers he cannot himself refrain from shouting. Hence it is not onty from our own experi- ence, but from that of others frequently heard ex- pressed, that we conclude that the cause or order given in this little work is the most natural and satisfactory way in which to view the Park. This is a fact which the Northern Pacific Railroad will, no doubt, take advan- tage of in their subsequent advertisement of the Park. This road is now rapidly advancing, and, I am author- itatively informed, will reach the point of their line nearest the boundary of the Park the coming season; and it is their purpose to immediately construct a branch road leading into the Park, for the express accommodation of tourists. For the many who enter the Park from Virginia City or that way, the book will be found to answer just as well, as they will only need to turn to the part in- dexed “ Lower Geyser Basin,” page 25, and follow it through; turning to first part when they come to Mam- moth Springs, and following it up to “ Lower Geyser Basin.” 12 Great American Wonderland. BATH POOLS, MAMMOTH SPRINGS. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. This portion of the Park is the most difficult to de- scribe, and for this reason the accompanying cuts are given, believing that a better idea can be gained from these than from any description lean give. These illus- trations are from photographs taken by Mr. H. B. Colfee, and some idea of the extent of this great mountain of springs may be obtained from the statement that hun- dreds of photographs might be taken of these Springs, each being entirely different from any of the others. This mountain has grown, and is still growing toward the East. These springs are arranged in terraces, one above the other, the water depositing the sediment which forms the growth, as it runs over the edges of these beau- tiful bowls. The springs are constantly changing ; wa- ter is not running over all these bowls — some seem to be deserted entirely ; others are left dry for a year or two, then water comes into them again. Those which are dry are snow-white, while those which are active are 14 Great American Wonderland. colored — by ingredients of the water — sometimes red, in- dicating the presence of iron in the water ; at others bright yellow, indicating sulphur ; and there are many other bright and beautiful tints, one of the most beauti- ful of which is a delicate green. But all turn to snow- white as soon as the water deserts them. The water is always perfectly clear, and the chief attraction of the whole scene, to many, is the beautiful wave-motion as it spreads over the sides of these bowls, and at one place, over almost the whole side of the mountain, of equal depth but very shallow; thus it is that the whole grows evenly. The temperature of the water is usually 166°. On the summit of the Main Ter- race, are little lakes of this boiling water, from which most of the water comes. A person can walk over this formation, and even on the rims of the active pools, without danger. At some places are erected racks, where the water is running over in a quantity, upon which ar- ticles are hung for the purpose of getting them coated, which is done plentifully in about tw r o and one-half days. The present season it has been the rage to coat horseshoes. Silver, glass, wood or leather will take this coating just as well as iron. The formation is composed of lime, soda, alumina and magnesia. The author realizes that this is a very poor descrip- tion of these marvelous springs, but a more particular Great American Wonderland. 15 description would consume too much space. Trusting that, with the accompanying* illustrations, what has been said may serve to give some idea of their appear- ance, we leave the subject. There are other objects than the springs themselves of great interest. In this locality, at different places on the large flat below the springs formation, are found openings which lead to great caves. Into some of these a person may descend from 50 to 150 feet. Liberty Cup is also found near the base of Springs Mountain. It is nothing more than the crater of an extinct geyser. It is forty-seven feet high, and has a small opening in the top. There is a supply store here, and hotel also. There are bath-houses kept up by the proprietor of the hotel, and rented at a small fee. The National Park Capitol, or Headquarters Building, is situated on the summit of a high hill, or knoll, just east of Springs Mountain. A post-office, with weekly mail service, is kept here, the only post-office at present near the Park, the daily mail service of last season, into and through the Park, having been discontinued, a result of the Star Route investi- gations. Another interesting feature of this hot-water local- ity is a beautiful cold-water stream, coming from an ice- cold spring a short distance back of the hotel. It is a boon to be prized in this locality. 16 Great American Wonderland. FALLS OF MIDDLE GARDNER RIVER. These Falls and canon below are about five miles from the Springs, directly south; a good trail leads to them. The canon is, in itself, a sight well worth the short ride required to reach it, but the Falls are the chief interest here. The water falls in the form of a cascade 300 feet ; 100 feet of this is a direct fall. DEPARTURE FROM MAMMOTH SPRINGS. Leaving the Mammoth Springs, the tourist begins the ascent of Terrace Mountain, over the excellently graded, but wonderfully steep wagon road, leading to the right of the Hot Springs’ terraces With a loaded wagon and four horses, this three miles of ascent is a fair half day’s work. It is not one continuous grade or hill, but a succession of hills, with short resting slopes between. After an ascent of nearly 3,000 feet, the road enters a beautiful, high, meadowed valley, and takes an almost direct southward course, with a few slight variations to and through the three Geyser Basins. After entering this valley and traveling about one and a half miles southward upon the main road, a dim trail is found leading off to the left. Following this for a distance of one-half mile brings the tourist to the upper entrance of the beautiful canon of the West Gardner, and just at the entrance to the canon is found Great American Wonderland. 17 RUSTIC FALLS. Sights well worth the expenditure of much m#re time and trouble than it requires to reach them. The water falls here sixty feet over a large slightly curved rock of this height, whose surface is wrought into shallow scallops, or cup-like forms, on its surface, which causes the water, in falling, to take the peculiar shapes which give rise to the name “ Rustic Falls.” These Falls are five miles from the starting point at springs. About four miles farther on, a clear, rapid stream running eastward is forded. This is one of the branches of the Middle Gardner ; and another is crossed in less than a mile farther on. Although in appearance a fine trout stream, there are no fish of any kind in them ; and that the patience of those who delight in sport with rod and line may be reserved for necessary occasions, the author will here state that no fish can be found before reaching Yellowstone Lake , in this tour of Wonderland. This fact will be admitted as one of the Wonders. WILLOW PARK — FINE CAMP. About fifteen miles from the springs, just before entering Obsidian Canon, is Willow Park, one of the finest camping places in the Park. No tourists should attempt to go farther than from the Springs to this point in one day with wagons, as it is about ten miles before 18 Great American Wonderland. another good camping place is reached. From Willow Park it is two miles to Obsidian Cliff and Beaver Lake. OBSIDIAN CLIFF Is composed of basaltic columns of volcanic glass, a species of lava. It is deep black but clear and beautiful. Some fine specimens of red are found among it. Many beauti- ful specimens of this material can be picked up here — as the road has been quarried out from the edge of the cliff, and the horses tread over the finest specimens of it. It takes its name, according to Pliny, from a person named Obsidius, who first found it in Ethiopia. The little stream passing here is also one of the branches of the Middle Gardner River. About two miles farther on the road leads over a high hill, the divide between the waters of the Gardner, which flow into the Yellowstone, and the Gibbon, which flow into the Madison River. On the right, as one ascends this hill, is seen the first indication of geyser basins. This one is of little in- terest, however, there being nothing active there now ; simply some boiling springs having a very disagreeable odor. From the summit of this hill, looking toward the west, is obtained one of the finest views of mountain scenery anywhere to be found. These mountains are of the Madison Range. Great American Wonderland. 19 LAKE OF THE WOODS. On the summit of this divide, is a beautiful little lake, seen at left of road, and called “Lake of the Woods;” a very appropriate title, surrounded as it is by a dense growth of lofty pines. Along the road for the next two miles, are seen many evidences of former geysers’ and warm springs’ action. Soon after the road enters Norris Geyser Basin, a beautiful park. Fine camping grounds, as there is plenty of excellent grass, and easy picketing for horses. Numerous cold-water springs close to the road on the right, and wood (as is always the case) plentiful. Nearly five miles farther on the Norris Fork of Gib- bon is crossed. Here also is good camping ground. By stopping here, tourists can make thorough inspection of the Norris Geyser Basin, which is located on each side of the road one-half mile ahead. NORRIS GEYSER BASIN. At first sight this Basin does not present a very pleasing appearance. But upon close inspection and examination, there are found many things of wonderful interest and beauty. Passing along the ridge from sign- board to the right, many boiling springs and pools are found of different colors — yellow as pure sulphur, blue as the sky, white as snow, and dark as ink. Large fry- 20 Great American Wonderland. ing pans, hissing and steaming with intense heat; under-ground rumblings, reminding one at once of the sound of burs and machinery in an immense flouring mill. On the flat toward the southwest, is seen a geyser called the “Constant,” spouting twice every minute, and the first geyser seen by tourists entering the Park from this way. A small geyser, like a beautiful fountain, near the Constant, is going all the time. Farther along the road at the highest point in this Basin and about twenty- five yards to the right of the road is a mud geyser which operates about every twenty minutes. It throws its lead-colored mixture to the height of about ten feet; some spurts are much higher. The mixture is about the consistency of thick paint. During the pulsations, which last about eight minutes, the forms which the muddy water assumes are most grotesque and beautiful; and after the eruption has ceased, and the water has all run back into the orifice, the observer can obtain from the crater some of the finest specimens found in the Park. At the left of the road, and within one rod of it at the same place, is the “Emerald Pool,” which many have pronounced the most beautiful thing in all Wonder- land ; and for simple beauty it surely cannot be sur- passed. The water is a beautiful emerald green — clear Great American Wonderland. 21 as crystal. The coral walls, most beautifully shaped, can be seen to an appalling depth. By all means , spend some time at this beautiful pool. Look into it from all sides. Farther along the road, and just at the foot of the hill, is the “ Minute Man Geyser;” and up against the bluff, east of this, is a geyser called the ‘‘Mammoth,” which throws a large quantity of water to the height of about 100 feet, and discharges about once in twenty-four hours. There are a few other geysers in this Basin, but they are not of special interest. This Basin was not visited by or. known to the earlier visitors and explorers of the Park. So there is no description of it found in their works. GIBBON BASIN OR MEADOWS. Six miles farther on, is the Gibbon Basin , a beautiful meadow about five miles in circumference, surrounded by thickly wooded hills and mountains, the Gibbon River meandering quietly through it. It is not needful to mention that this is a fine camping place, but tourists need to be cautioned not to continue their journey from this place in the after part of the day, as there is no grass between here and Lower Geyser Basin, which is seventeen miles distant. PAINT POTS AND BLOOD GEYSER. Passing around the bluff eastward from this Basin, 22 Great American Wonderland. are found — one-half mile distant — the beautiful Paint Pots and a Blood Geyser. Many tourists have difficulty in finding these. Follow into the timber at the point where there is a pen of logs thrown together for helping to catch horses; a blazed trail will be found at this point. This is at the southeast corner of Basin, close to the wagon road, and near the little stream that comes in there, called Geyser Creek. The water of the Geyser comes through the red mud, and thus the water is colored ; home the name “Blood Geyser.” This Geyser is irregu- lar, acting two or three times each day. The Paint Pots are very fine and of different colors. MONUMENT GEYSER BASIN. At the entrance to Gibbon Canon, on leaving this Basin, or Meadows, a sign-board is observed on the west bank of stream, and at the end of a foot-bridge ; the sign reads, “ Trail to Monument Geysers, on Mt. Schurz.” It is one mile to this interesting little Basin. Although the foot-bridge would indicate that the tourist should walk up the mountain, yet it is very easily ascended on horseback. The author’s wife, together with one other lady, were the first ladies who ever visited this Basin. They rode their horses both up to and down from this elevated Basin, which is 1,000 feet higher than the bed of the river. Horses can be forded just below the bridge Great American Wonderland. 23 by taking care to keep them from stepping into the boiling water, which is plentiful in the edge of the river at this place. Monument Geyser Basin has only been open to tourists for two seasons. Here are found monu- ments as hard as granite, smooth and perpendicular ; all have an opening in the top ; some are extinct, others are sending forth steam, but none are throwing water at present. These monuments are from six to twelve feet in height. The most interesting thing, however, in this Basin, is a dry stream, or hot-air escape vent, an orifice in the rocks, where the steam is so dry as to be scarcely perceived, escapes with a constant noise, so loud as to make it impossible to hear or understand the loudest conversation while standing near it. Upon approaching it, the hands are almost unconsciously placed over the ears. It is undoubtedly the noisiest thing in the Park. In this little Basin are also found fine specimens of pure sulphur crystals, boiling pools of differently col- ored water, frying-pans, etc. No tourist should omit visiting this wonderful place. The view one gets from this summit of the Gibbon Meadows and river, alone re- wards for the trouble of the ascent. GAME IN THE PARK. In the northwest of this Gibbon Basin is considered 24 Great American Wonderland. a good locality for elk; indeed, they are often seen upon these Meadows in the early morning. But tourists must not expect to find game plentiful in any locality of the Park. To find it at all, one must go far back from the roads and trails, and upon the highest places, where it ranges during the warm months to eacape the flies. It takes experienced hunters to get game now, and I am of the opinion that ere many years almost all kinds of game will cease to inhabit the Park. GIBBON CANON. Leaving this beautiful Basin, one of the most delightful camps in all Wonderland, the tourist im- mediately enters the Gibbon Canon. There are Geysers, Laundry Springs and boiling pools close by the road- side, in passing through the Canon. There is much fine scenery also. The Canon wall at one place is 2,000 feet high on the right of river. After passing the hot water and these great canon walls, the Falls are reached. GIBBON FALLS. These Falls are about six miles from the entrance to the canon, are close to the road-side and cannot be missed. The water falls over a beautiful ledge eighty feet. There is a trail to foot of Falls, as well as one to near the brink. About eleven miles farther brings the Great American Wonderland. 25 tourist to the Lower Geyser Basin. There is little of interest in this eleven miles, unless it be a hill at Canon Creek. LOWER GEYSER BASIN. Upon entering this Basin, by taking the right-hand road and crossing the two forks of the Fire Hole, or head-waters of the Madison, the hotel breaks into view. At this point the Virginia road enters the Park. The hotel is kept by G. W. Marshall, and much is said of his hospitable treatment of guests. He also keeps a supply store, which fact is pleasing intelligence to most tourists, since by this time most find that their appe- tites have been undervalued in their estimates of amount of food needed. In fact, one of the greatest wonders the tourist meets with in the Park is his own appetite. DIFFICULTY WITH THE TOURIST. One of the greatest difficulties in the management of tourists now arises. It is, that in his eagerness to get to the Upper Geyser Basin, where are the greatest wonders, he neglects to visit thoroughly the Lower Basin. Says he “will take that in” when he comes back. But when he has visited the Upper Basin, he does not care for anything that' may be found in the Lower Basin. This is the almost universal experience 26 Great American Wonderland. of all who go to Upper Basin before visiting the Lower. One cannot enjoy the sights of the Upper Basin more for not having seen and enjoyed the Lower first Hence I would urge all who read this book, all who desire to make the most of their pleasure trip — to thoroughly “do” the Lower Basin first. We will suppose you are at the hotel. Go from there two miles south through Geyser Meadows to Queen’s Laundry, where the superintendent has arranged conveniences*for bathing. There are some geysers and many other objects of interest near the Laundry. Fairy Falls Creek enters Fire Hole River near here. The Falls are not far distant, where the water falls, or makes a leap of 250 feet perpendicularly. To all of these objects of interest, the verdant meadows, skirted by romantic groves of pines, add to the beauty and general interest of the surroundings. Returning to the hotel, the tourist recrosses the two streams, follows the wagon road towards the East, crosses the East Fork again on the road leading to the right, from where the wagon road crosses the formation of the lower end of the Basin — he can ride or drive near to all objects of interest. There are but few geysers of in- terest in this Basin. The large pools, easily distinguished by the great bodies of steam rising from them, are the Great American Wonderland. 27 chief attraction in this Basin. Approaching near to them (on foot), one can look down through their beauti- fully tinted but wonderfully clear waters to immeasure- able depths. The fantastically shaped and coral decked walls are objects of beauty that cause the beholder to give vent to involuntary exclamations of wonder and surprise. FOUNTAIN GEYSER. Upon the eastern summit of the formation is found the principal Geyser of this Basin, The Fountain, which has a crater 150 feet in circumference, encas- ing a crater twenty-five feet in diameter. From this inner crater the water is thrown up in a vast column sixty feet high, falling back in glistening glob- ules — a natural fountain of marvelous beauty. This Geyser acts about every six hours, and the length of time it continues in action is more than one hour. As the beholder stands near, he feels and hears the heavy under-ground thuds which are almost instantly followed by the highest jets or columns. When this Geyser is not acting, the crater usually is full of the most trans- parent water; and into its clear depths one may gaze, beholding a fairy-like palace adorned with more brill- iant colors than any structure made by human hands can be. In the beautiful bowls, or “pot holes,” which 28 Great American Wonderland. surround this crater, and are constantly kept filled with this clear water, may be found many names of tourists, written with lead-pencils, some of which have been there eight years. MUD OR PAINT POTS IN LOWER BASIN. A few rods eastward from this Geyser, through scat- tering trees, are the most remarkable Paint Pots in Fire Hole Valley. They cover an area of seventy by forty feet in diameters. The surrounding rim or crater is about four feet high, and may be walked upon with perfect safety. The southern end is almost snow-white boiling mud, the northern is a bright pink. The latter, being some- what thicker in consistency, has formed numerous little mounds or craters, with orifices from which mud is thrown at small intervals, and which keep up a noise similar to but greater than that of thickly boiling “hasty pudding.” The white is agitated over its entire surface. Bits of the mixture are thrown up from the surface, which, when falling, form beautiful little circles or rings, which keep their shape until changed by another disturbance ; and this very soon follows. These disturbances, peculiar shapes, and singular noise, made by the escaping gases and steam, are most interesting and truly wonderful. This mud is an impalpable, silicious clay. Great American Wonderland. 29 Some distance east and southeast from Paint Pots, are a few geysers and boiling pools, but not often visited by tourists — not possessing features differing in inter- est from those already seen. The above described are the chief objects of interest in the Lower Geyser Basin, and should be thoroughly viewed by all tourists. This will not require more than one day at most. From Marshall’s Hotel to the Upper Basin is eleven miles, or about nine from where the road crosses the for- mation of Lower Basin. MIDDLE GEYSER BASIN OR “DEVIL’S HALF ACRE.” This interesting locality is on the opposite side of the river from the road, and about half way between Upper and Lower Basins. It is clearly visible — cannot be missed. A road is found leading across the river here. This locality is perhaps better known as DeviVs or HelVs Half Acre , although the much preferable, though not more appropriate, name of Middle Gej^ser Basin has been given it by the Superintendent of the Park. There are many interesting things to be seen here. The group includes some of the grandest hot springs in the world. The most formidable is near the margin of the river. Of it Prof. Hayden in his report says “It seems to have broken out close by the river, and 30 Great American Wonderland. to have continually enlarged its orifice by the breaking down of its sides. It evidently commenced on the east side, and the continual wear of the under side of the crust, on the west side, has caused the margin to fall in until the aperture, at least 250 feet in diameter, has been formed, with walls or sides twenty to thirty feet high, showing the laminae of deposition per- fectly. The water is intensely agitated all the time, boiling like a caldron, from which a vast column of steam is ever rising, filling the orifice. As the passing breeze sweeps it away for a moment, one looks down into this terrible, seething pit with terror.” MIDDLE GEYSER BASIN. This pool discharges an immense amount of water constantly, which is pouring into the river, coloring the hank most exquisitely, as well as the broad surface over which it runs before reaching the river bank. All artists who visit the Park are fascinated by the oppor- tunities here presented for a display of their skill in coloring. There are many more of these springs or pools here of the next in size. Strange as it may seem, it must be said that the present season it acts as a Geyser, operating about once in twenty-four hours, and with greater violence than any other in the Park. As Gen- eral Sheridan, this season (1881), was coming by this Basin on his way from the Upper Basin, this Geyser Great American Wonderland. 31 gave a fine display, an account of which is the follow- ing : — SHERIDAN GEYSER. “ The second in size of these great springs has quite recently turned itself into a spouting Geyser, and it has been named the 1 Sheridan,’ in honor of the gal- lant Lieutenant-General Phil. Sheridan. Its eruptions .are yet irregular. On Sunday morning, August 28, 1881, the day General Sheridan left the Upper Basin with his party, this remarkable Geyser spouted up a solid body of water from sixty to seventy-five feet in diameter, to a height closely estimated at 300 feet. The display lasted a number of minutes, and is pronounced bv those who witnessed it to be one of the grandest sights ever beheld in Wonderland.” UPPER GEYSER BASIN. Leaving this interesting Middle Basin, the tourist passes on about five miles farther and enters the Upper Basin, which Basin contains the crowning wonders of Wonderland. In the description given of geysers in this Basin, there will be only an attempt to explain their action and to give facts concerning them, simply and plainly, so as to aid the tourist ; and no attempt at de- scriptions of their grandeur. The accompanying chart will give an idea of the location of the principal Geysers. As the Basin is 32 Great American Wonderland. entered at the north, I have headed the map south, thinking that the most natural way. DESCRIPTION OF GEYSERS. Old Faithful, so aptly named by the first exploring party in 1870, because of its wonderful regularity, is situated at the very head of the Geyser Basin, standing there like a faithful sentinel, true to his regularity day and night, winter and summer. Every hour he lifts himself up, as it were looks over the whole Basin, then quieting down, awaits the appointed moment when this action is repeated. This Geyser acts differently from every other one. While it is said to act every hour, it is more accurately stated by saying that it is just one hour from the time it ceases action until it begins again. The column of water is held up steadily and majestically about 160 feet for about five minutes, when it begins to weaken, and in less than two minutes is all quieted down, and gives no other disturbance than the plentiful issue of very hot steam, until time for the next eruption. The formation about the crater of this Geyser is one of the greatest wonders, as well as beauties, of the Park. It is so firm as to be unyielding to the tread, and yet as delicate in appearance as the finest coral formation. Great American Wonderland. 33 THE CASTLE. The Castle has, in ages past, been one of the greatest, if not the greatest, Geyser in the Basin ; it is the noisiest one now, and could it have more water, would not be outdone by any of them. It is throwing up jets of water to heights of from ten to twenty or thirty feet every few minutes, and those not accustomed to its actions are de- ceived into the belief that it is going to “ go off.” It acts sometimes once a day, but oftener does it act every second day. : When it waits two days, it gives a very fine dis- play, the water lasting about thirty minutes, and is thrown over 100 feet high ; and after the water is done, the steam escapes in immense quantities, and with a noise j that can be heard miles distant. The entire mound or i formation of this Geyser is forty feet high ; the chimney or crater proper is twenty feet high. The formation about this Geyser is like cauliflowers or spongiform corals. devil’s well. The beautiful pool about three rods to the north of this Geyser is called the “ Devil’s Well.” It is an object of great admiration. Its waters have that unnatural clearness characteristic of most of these beautiful boiling pools. Tourists often cook in this pool by setting the camp-kettle in it partly filled with water and the beans Great American Wonderland. 35 or other material desired to be boiled. The temperature of some of these springs is higher than can be obtained by boiling water in an open vessel on the fire in same locality. bee-hive geyser. The Bee-hive is, in respect to symmetry, the finest Geyser in Wonderland ; the accompanying illustration gives an accurate representation of it. The cone is three feet high, the orifice two feet by three feet in diameter. By accurate triangular measurement it is found to throw its boiling column 219 feet high. The eruption lasts about eight minutes, the water being held up during this time as shown in cut. This Geyser acts about once in twenty- four hours, sometimes oftener. I have seen it act twice in the daylight part of one day. A little steam orifice, about twelve feet above the cone of the Geyser, almost without exception, gives warning from fifteen to thirty minutes before the eruption of the Geyser. The writer never knew this faithful little monitor to fail before the present season, when he witnessed it play at two different times for thirty minutes, and then cease; and the Geyser did not act. Although the Geyser may fail to act always when the vent warns, the Geyser never acts without the vent giving warning; so it is generally safe to. heed the warning given by this little vent, and to call your 36 Great American Wonderland. friends and fellow sight-seers to assemble near the Bee-hive. THE GIANTESS. The Giantess is upon the summit of the formation, about 100 yards to the northeast of the Bee-hive. It is a large oval aperture, with scalloped edges, the diameters of which are twenty-five and eighteen feet. This Gey- ser is very irregular, acting once in about fourteen days. The crater is usually full and boiling gently ; gives no warning of an approaching eruption. The beautiful walls may be seen to a great depth through the wonder- fully transparent water. When this Geyser does act, the eruption at inter- vals of about forty minutes lasts for twelve to sixteen hours ; so that, although it may begin in the night, it may be seen in daylight. When it begins an eruption, for some minutes it throws 250 feet high, but after this not eighty feet high. Its action is very much like that of thej'Splendid, in viewing which one finds a very good substitute^for the Giantess. LION, LIONESS AND TWO CUBS. The group of four active craters on the point near the river, just across from the Cabin, is composed of four Geysers. The highest crater is called the “Lion,” and acts independently of the other three. The Lioness and Great American Wonderland. 37 Two Cubs aet sometimes in unison; and when they do, are a pretty sight, although they do not throw water to a very great height. There is no regularity as to the time of the action of any of this group. The next Geyser of great importance on this side of the river is the GRAND GEYSER. This is without doubt the most satisfactory Geyser in the whole Park, and all seeing it in action will pro- nounce it most aptly named. It is just at the foot of a low, rocky bluff, eastward and across the river from the Castle. The raised and usually agitated crater is not the Geyser orifice, as one would naturally suppose, ob- serving it when not in eruption. The Geyser proper is the orifice in center of a shallow basin, or pool, just south of this crater, an orifice about two by three feet in diameter. The Geyser acts irregularly about twice in twenty- six hours. There is no warning of any certain charac- ter before an eruption ; but as the Geyser seldom acts for a less time than twenty minutes, tourists can get to it in time to witness its best action. The under-ground pulsations can be heard and felt to a great dis- tance. This Geyser’s action is entirely different from all the others. The first action is very violent, a series of charges and surges, shooting jets to great heights and 38 Great American Wonderland. at different angles. This action lasts eight er ten min- utes ; then it all settles down quietly at the Geyser orifice. The water covers over, no steam escapes, and for a little more than a minute it is calm and quiet, when suddenly it is heaved as by a mighty impulse, and the column rises perfectly straight up to a height of 200 feet, and is held there for several moments ; then is followed by jet after jet for some minutes, when, as suddenly as it arose, it quiets down again just as before, waiting the same length of time, when the third pulsation is made, similar to the second. This is repeated usually until seven of these pulsations, or periods of action after repose, are completed — usually seven; but the writer has seen but five, and again nine and ten, and once eleven pulsations. When it is confined to seven pulsations, the time occu- pied in the whole action is twenty minutes. Because of these separate pulsations — the quieting and beginning again, the wonderful power displayed, and the dizzy height to which the water is projected — this is regarded by most tourists as the favorite Geyser. This is truly the “Grand Geyser” There is a powerful steam vent about forty feet to north of the Geyser orifice, which operates most violently during the whole period of the Geyser’s action ; but all the steam ceases, and the water sinks out of sight in both craters when the Geyser is done. Great American Wonderland. 39 SAW-MILL GEYSER. There is a Geyser toward the Cabin from the Grand, and about half wa,y between Grand and the river, which is called the “ Saw-Mill” because of its puffing and pecu- liar motion ; it acts about half the time. Standing by it, one can see the large bubbles of steam and gas ascending, which explode on or near the surface of the water, and cause the peculiar noise which gives rise to the name, as well as projecting water to the height of about twenty feet. There are many other agitated boiling pools and noisy little craters in this vicinity, from some of which water runs constantly to the river in little rivulets, the bottoms of which are most delicately and beautifully colored. Many persons write their names with lead-pen- cils in these beautiful rivulets. SPLENDID GEYSER. This Geyser, one of the finest in the Basin, has not acted for three years, until the present season (1881). It is located almost due west from Giant, back upon a small hill. Our camp was near it this summer for three weeks, and we had the best opportunity to observe its actions. It is (this season) next to Old Faithful in point of regularity, operating at intervals of about three hours. Sometimes not more than one and one-half hours 40 Great American Wonderland. intervened between its eruptions. It gives no noticeable warning of eruptions, beginning suddenly and acting about five and sometimes ten minutes. There is a smaller geyser cast of it, which throws an oblique stream; this and Splendid often act together, which enhances the beauty of the spectacle. I have frequently seen the two joined by a brilliant rainbow. The Splendid is esti- mated to throw about 200 feet high. As at the Grand f the beholder, unconscious of the name, exclaims : “ That is grand.” So at the Splendid, I have frequently heard the expression, “Well, that is splendid.” Let us hope that this Geyser may take no more three-year rests, but rather may it continue to vie with Old Faithful in point of frequency and regularity. In point of splendor it is already ahead. COMET. Just south of Giant about thirty rods is a Geyser of some interest, called usually the “Comet,” although I am at a loss to know what suggested the name. It. has a large and beautiful crater, operates about four times a day, discharges a vast quantity of water, but because of the Crater being so large, does not throw to a great height. If it were in Central Park, New York, it would be looked upon and visited as one of the greatest of wonders. But situated where it is, among so many Great American Wonderland. 41 of its fellows who are so vastly superior, it scarcely gets a passing notice. THE GROTTO. The Grotto, situated near the Giant, at right of road before reaching the Giant, is noted only for the grotto form of its crater. This is singular and beautiful. Dur- ing the action of this Geyser, water is not thrown to any great height, but it is churned about and thrown out at the holes in side, in such a peculiar style as to make it an object of great interest. The action lasts for thirty minutes, and occurs about four times each day. FAN AND RIVERSIDE. These Geysers, the first seen upon entering the Basin, throw each about sixty feet high, and act irregu- larly two or three times each day. THE GIANT. The Giant, the king of all geysers, remains to be described. Its crater wdll at once be recognized by tourists who have seen pictures of it. It is the first real Geyser at left of road after crossing river, on way into the Basin, and about one mile distant from Old Faithful, at opposite end of Basin. The Giant “ goes off” (in the language of the Geyer Basins) once in four days, irregularly. All tourists should try to see the 42 Great American Wonderland. Giant in action; such a treat as witnessing this Geyser, fully compensates for the waiting necessary to see it It throws a column of water seven feet in diameter nearly 200 feet high. Some of the first pulsations are often much higher than this, and part of the time lower. The grandeur consists in the power displayed, the quantity of water thrown, and the length of time it acts. I have never known it to act a less time than one hour and thirty minutes, and it often goes over two hours; and during this time there is no cessation of the action, but the column is kept up constantly to a height of not less than 100 feet. The quantity of water dis- charged increases the volume of the river about one- half, and the river is a rapid stream about twenty-five yards wide. The quantity of steam discharged is im- mense, and a slight breeze is necessary to give the finest appearance to the Geyser. The constant, deep-toned roar, heard in connection with this Geyser’s action, is one of the most impressive features. There are several vents for this Geyser near to it, which keep boiling and throwing water and emitting great quantities of steam constantly while the Geyser is not in action, but as soon as the Geyser begins to act, they cease* Some of these are really geysers in themselves. The one throwing the most water is called the “ Cat-fish.” Those described are the principal Geysers; there Great American Wonderland. 43 being really only nine great Geysers in this Basin, which may he arranged in a table as given in connec- tion with this. But tourists must bear in mind that what is true of these Geysers, this season, may not be absolutely true of them next season, since all of them, except Old Faithful, vary somewhat in their frequency and times of action; but in the main, the table will be found to be correct : — Time of Action. How High. How Frequent, 1. Old Faithful 4 min. 160 feet. Every 65 minutes. 2. Bee-hive 8 min. 219 “ About once in 24 hours 3. Giantess 12 hrs. 250 “ “ “ 14 days 4. Castle 30 min. 150 “ “ “ 2 days 5. Grand 20 min. 200 “ “ “ 13 hours 6. Splendid 4 to 10 min. 200 “ “ “ 3 hours 7. Giant 1 1 hr. 40 m. 200 “ “ “ 4 days 8. Riverside j 15 min. 60 “ “ 3 times each day 9. Fan 1 15 min. 60 “ “ 3 times each day There are many objects of interest in this Basin, aside from the Geysers ; but tourists usually stay too little time here, and pass that all in an excited state, rushing from one Geyser to another, as alarm is given of their real or apparent eruptions. No one should think of staying less time in this Basin than four days. This will give an opportunity to see the Giant and most of the others more than once. Then there are many things of interest, outride of the immediate geyser region, which should be visited, of which the following are a few * 44 Great American Wonderland. Falls in Fire Hole River, about one and a half miles above Old Faithful, beside the trail leading to Yellow- stone Lake; Black Sand Geyser, about one-half mile westward from Giant. This is not an active Geyser, but a beautiful pool ; water 198° temperature. It has a crater about ten feet high, of black sand, and the formation west of it affords large quantities of the most beautiful specimens found in the Park. In this locality are found also the Demon’s Cave, Fairies’ Well and Soda Geyser. Before you enter the Geyser Basin, about one-half mile below the Fan Geyser, and just before descending a hill (traveling south), the road passes over a geyser forma- tion, where there is hot water running across the road, in beautifully colored little rivulets; just above the road a few rods is observed a large pool, from which a vast column of steam is rising. The formation about this pool is, I think, the finest seen anywhere in the Park. All should stop here, alight from horses, and walk around this pool. The views obtained from different positions about it are certainly fine. This pool sometimes acts as a geyser, throwing out a large quantity of water. But I have said nothing of a general view of this Geyser Basin. GENERAL VIEW OF BASIN. Obtaining an elevated position at either end of the Basin, on a clear, calm morning, one can behold innu- Great American Wonderland. 45 merable columns of steam ascending perpendicularly. Some are great and some are small. From a distance one is reminded of a great manufacturing city, except that instead of the vast columns of dirty smoke, there are here the white, delicate clouds of steam. SMOKE IN PARK. There are many names in the Park that suggest the idea of smoke. But nowhere is any smoke found except that of camp-fires ; or it may be a burning forest occasionally is seen, the result of carelessness in extin- guishing camp-fires — a direct violation of one of the regulations of the Park. FORESTS OF PARK. This leads us to mention the forests of the Park. The great forests of beautiful pines are one of the chief attractions of the Park. The tourist rides miles and miles through dense forests, where the beholding of the tall, wonderfully straight and symmetrical pine is a constant pleasure and delight. Every variety of pine is found, sometimes mingled together, sometimes in groves by themselves. But in the midst of these forests, beautiful green parks are frequently found. So much so is this the case, that an eminent U. S. Senator, whom I met in the Park this season, said : — “I think it is a mistake to call this a ‘National 46 Great American Wonderland. Park.’ It is a vast Wonderland , composed of a thousand beautiful parks, aside from the great wonders.” FROM UPPER GEYSER BASIN TO LAKE. Having visited the Upper Basin, the next point of interest in the tour is the Lake. There are two ways of reaching the Lake. One by trail, leaving Upper Basin near Old Faithful ; the other is by wagon road, via Lower Basin and Mud Geysers. Since many visit the Park with- out wagons, and with pack animals, which will always be the most convenient, less annoying and quickest way, because of the many hills, which, however well graded, will always be barriers to the wheeled vehicle, we will first describe the trail road to Lake. SHOSHONE TRAIL AND LAKE. This trail is somewhat difficult because of hills and swamps. But the Superintendent of Park so far im- proved it this summer as to render it quite passable. The objects of interest on this trail are, first, the Fire Hole River Falls, about one and a half miles above Old Faithful. Next SHOSHONE LAKE ten miles from Upper Basin. This Lake is on the Pa- cific side of the divide ; its outlet runs into Snake River. This Lake has an area of about 100 square miles. Its surface • is about 200 feet lower than that of Yellow- Great American Wonderland. 47 stone Lake, not more than six miles distant from its nearest point. Beautiful camping grounds are found here. No fish in this Lake. HOT SPRINGS CAMP ON YELLOWSTONE LAKE Ten miles farther brings the tourist to the great Yel- lowstone Lake. At this point on Lake, are many hot springs, and it is known by the term, u Hot Springs Camp” There are in this collection very large hot springs, from which flow great quantities of the hottest water, coating most beautifully the channels through which the waters run ; great boiling pools, one of which is very large and remarkably beautiful. It has been sounded to the depth of B50 feet ; and through its transparent waters, it would seem that one could see to almost this depth. Its un- even walls, coral-like in formation and singular in shape, tinted by the water’s color, are surely good representa- tions of fairy palaces. Its edge should be approached with great care, since the thin rim formed from the water’s ingredients projects over the vast depth. There is here & collection of Paint Pots, even more beautiful than those described in the Lower Geyser Basin, and more •extensive. YELLOWSTONE LAKE. The Lake is very beautiful at this point. The be- holder can see to Steamboat Springs, a distance of about 48 Great American Wonderland. forty miles; these Springs being on the edge of the Lake at northeast extremity. Boiling water may be noticed ascending through the clear water of the Lake at many points near this camp (Hot Springs Camp). The author bathed in the Lake, where, for a depth of eighteen inches, the water indicated on Fahrenheit mercury 110° ; and below that immediately 80°. The water could only be made com- fortably cool by stirring it ; even then it was a very warm bath , when the Lake a few rods south along shore, juist above Warm Springs region, indicated 45°. A singular- ity of the geyser and hot springs water is that it floats upon ordinary water, just as alcohol does. DRINKING GEYSER WATER. Geyser or hot springs water is usually good to drink when cold ; not always pleasant to the taste, but in no way injurious to the health. FISH IN YELLOWSTONE LAKE. There are plenty of fish in the Lake, and they can be easily hooked here with grasshoppers for bait ; and there are several places where the fisherman can catch, and’cook the fish in the boiling pools, without either removing it from hook or changing his position. The writer has tried the experiment ; caught a fish and dropped it while on line into a small geyser in edge of Great American Wonderland. 49 Lake, just a little south of what is known as the “ boiling pool ” in Lake. The temperature, on account of the amount of escaping steam, was 220°. The fish was actually cooked, so that the meat fell off the bones in less than two minutes. But these fish are not good to eat ; of them Col. Norris, in his last report, says : — “No peculiarity of these regions is better estab- lished than that of the presence of long, slender white worms in the intestines and flesh of the countless large and beautiful trout of the Yellowstone Lake, named by Prof. Cope Salmo pleuriticus. All the trout of its cold- water tributaries below T contain them, but not those above the first rapids; also the main Yellowstone above, but not below its first Falls, as I have established by frequent examination of specimens of this fish. This clearly indicates that the cause of the presence of these worms exists in the Lake ; further than this, nothing has been established with regard to this phe- nomenon.” Many ducks, geese, cranes and pelicans are found on the Lake and its branches. Leaving this camp, the trail for a time is very close to the Lake ; but most of the time the tourist is hidden in dense forest, until within about two miles of the Nat- ural Bridge, occasionally however getting fine glimpses of the Lake. From camp at Boiling Pool to Natural Bridge is twenty miles. —4 50 Great American Wonderland. NATURAL BRIDGE. This Wonder has been added to the list within the last year. Many tourists have passed within one mile of it, ignorant of its existence. Now the trail passes to it, and over it, for those who care to try it. The Bridge is about thirty feet long, and about five feet wide — a kind of natural railing on the lower side. From Bridge to bottom of ravine, at lower side, I should judge to be about eighty feet ; not so deep at upper side. There is a cascade water-fall under the Bridge. From Col. Norris’ report I take the following description of it : — “ What is now the Bridge was once the brink of a cataract nearly 100 feet high, over a ledge of peculiarly hard, durable, variegated trachyte, upheaved to the vertical across the stream. Directly across this ledge countless ages of erosion have formed, first, a shallow, trough-like channel; then, or simul- taneously with this channel, a vertical orifice several feet long by one foot wide, between the strata, some two feet from the brink. There is a similar orifice eight or ten feet farther up stream, so large and deep as to undermine the intervening brink of the falls, where the impetuous water and rocky debris , by first cut- ting a circular channel and ultimately greatly deepen- ing it, have eroded one of the finest archways 1 have ever seen, which has about ten feet of stone support for a carriage-way above, and thirty feet of water-way beneath. The chasm is fully spanned by the Bridge, Great American Wonderland. 51 which by measurement I found to be twenty-nine feet long, and, including the above mentioned vertical ori- fice, ten feet high above the top of the arch, and forty- one feet to the bed-rock of the chasm, which at this point changes into a water-fall/’ Leaving the Natural Bridge, the tourist follows on down the Lake and river to the Mud Geysers , which point is six miles below the Lake and fourteen from the Nat- ural Bridge, making in all a distance of fifty-four miles by this route from Upper Geyser Basin to Mud Geysers. FROM LOWER BASIN TO MUD GEYSERS AND LAKE. From Lower Basin, the wagon road and trail pass up the east fork of Fire Hole River, and by Mary's Lake to Mud Geysers, twenty miles; from Mud Geysers to Lake six miles, being by this route thirty miles from Upper Basin to Mud Geysers, and thirty-six to the Lake. This is the route most tourists take, since it is shorter and a much better road. But those who desire to see the Natural Bridge and Boiling Pool in Lake, had better travel the Shoshone Trail. MUD GEYSERS. The Mud Geyser, formerly the most interesting feature of this collection of springs, pools, etc., has been dead for four years. However, there are two very inter- esting things in this locality yet. The first is the Mud Volcano, just against and on the side of the hill, west 52 Great American Wonderland. of the others of this group. It will be easily found from the large quantity of steam issuing from it, and by the noise it makes. As you stand upon the brink of the crater and look down into it, you can get glimpses of the boiling, charging mud, as the steam clears away occasionally. It belches forth from under the mountain in a horizontal line, strikes the side of the crater at the bottom, and runs right back in again. It is in many respects a hideous sight and sound, yet it seems to fascinate the beholder; he feels like staying there until he more thoroughly understands it. There is another, somewhat singular in its action, farther to the north, about twenty rods distant. But this one throws clear water ; but it only throws it to its mouth, and very little runs away. The water is 200° Fahrenheit. The stone about and above the mouth — for it is a cave or cavern in the hill-side — is made perfectly green by the steam or ingredients of the water. These two objects are the only wonders of peculiar inter- est in this locality. No tourist should pass with- out closely inspecting them. The first of these is called the “Mud Volcano;” the latter the “Belcher” because of its peculiar action and noise. This point on the river is called the “Nez-Perce Ford,” because of the fact that these Indians crossed the river here when pursued by Gen. Howard in the memorable Great American Wonderland. 53 campaign of 1877. Here may be found mounds or ridges of dirt thrown up by the Indians, to be used as breast- works in case of the anticipated attack of Howard’s forces. SULPHUR MOUNTAIN. About four miles farther towards the Falls brings the tourist to Sulphur Mountain. This is certainly a wonderful place. It stands out in the open prairie. A small grove almost surrounds it. No other mountains or trees near it. It is not a very high Mountain. Its entire surface has the appearance of weather-worn or colored sulphur, and all over it are little steam vents, from which issue little jets of steam — clearly discerni- ble on a clear, cool morning or in frosty weather, giving a remarkable appearance to the Mountain. These vents are found all about the base of the Mountain also, and the tourist must exercise care in walking about, lest he break through and be scalded by the hot steam. Break- ing up the surface around one of these vents, the finest crystals of sulphur are found, too delicate, however, to be transported as specimens. At the southern base of this Mountain is found a wonderful boiling spring ; of it Mr. Langford says : — “ The most conspicuous of the cluster is a sulphur spring twelve by twenty feet in diameter, encircled by a beautiful^ scalloped sedimentary border, in which FISHING IN THE PARK Great American Wonderland. 55 the water is thrown to a height of from three to seven feet. The regular formation of this border, and the per- fect shading of the scallops forming it, are among the most delicate and wonderful freaks of nature’s handi- work. They look like an elaborate work of art The gentle slope around it, for a distance of BOO feet, is cov- ered to considerable depth with a mixture of sulphur and brown lava.” Almost east of this spring, or rather south of east, on south side of trail, just through edge of timber, may be found some very interesting Mud Pots. Entering this Basin as indicated, the most interesting one is met with ; the mud is of a lavender color, thick enough to take most interesting shapes, as the steam and gases are permitted to escape through it. This Mud Pot is not seen by most tourists. It was not until * my- third tour of the Park that I found it. There is a boiling, muddy pool nearly straight south of the spring above described, which must not be taken for the Mud Pots. SULPHUR MOUNTAIN TO FALLS. The water of many of the springs in this locality is strangely impregnated with alum. Leaving Sulphur Mountain, the tourist passes on towards the Falls — the next object of interest. The distance from Sulphur Mountain to Falls is called six miles, but the tourist will think them long ones. Of the river 56 Great American Wonderland. and country between these points, Mr. James Richard- son says: — “ Half a mile above the Upper Fall, the Yellowstone gives no intimation of its approaching career of wildness and grandeur. It rolls peacefully between low, verdant banks, and over pebbly reaches or spaces of quicksand, with beautiful curves and majestic motion. Its waters are clear and cold, and of the emerald hue characteristic of Niagara. Great numbers of small springs, fed by the slowly melting snows of the mountains, flow from the densely wooded foot-hills, irrigating the ‘bottoms’ and sustaining a growth of grass and flowers that clothe the lowlands with freshness and vividness of color. Every- thing terrific, diabolic, volcanic, would seem to have been left behind. The first hint to the contrary is given by a pretty little rivulet, a yard wide and a few inches deep, clear as crystal, winding along through the rank grass to join the Yellowstone. It looks like any clear- watered mountain stream, but a single taste shows that it has a different origin. It is strongly charged with alum, hence its name, Alum Creek” One-half mile above the Upper Fall, the river changes into a series of beautiful rushing rapids, and as the trail passes close by the river brink, the tourist has the finest opportunity for viewing these. UPPER FALLS OF YELLOWSTONE. On the brink of this Fall, the river is confined to a width of little more than 100 feet between low, rocky Great American Wonderland. 57 walls. Of this Fall Prof. Hayden, in Geological Report, says : — “Above the Upper Falls, the Yellowstone flows through a grassy, meadow-like valley, with a calm, steady current, giving no warning, until very near the Falls, that it is about to rush over a precipice 140 feet high, and then, within a quarter of a mile, again to leap down a distance of 350 feet. “From any point of view the Upper Falls are extremely picturesque and striking. The entire body of water seems to be, as it were, hurled off the precipice with the force which it has accumulated in the rapids above, so that the mass is detached into the most beauti- ful snow-white, bead-like drops ; and as it strikes the rocky basin below, it shoots through the water with a sort of ricochet for the distance of 200 feet.” Of the river between the Falls the Superintendent of Park, Colonel Norris, has written: — “ Flow on, thou lovely river, Go smiling on thy way, And gathered floods deliver In thunder, mist, and spray, Amid the arching rainbows, High o’er the triple falls, Where quivering, mystic halos Bright tint the Canon walls. LOWER FALLS. “ After the waters roll over the upper descent, they flow with great rapidity over the flat, rocky bottom, which spreads out to nearly double its width above the 58 Great American Wonderland. Falls, when the channel again contracts, and the waters seem, as it were, to gather themselves into one compact mass, and plunge over the descent of 350 feet, in detached drops of foam as white as snow. Some of the large globules of water shoot down like the contents of an exploded rocket. The entire mass of the water falls into a circular basin, which has been worn into the hard rock, so that the rebound is one of the grand features of the scene.” The first impression, I think, of most tourists, on first beholding this Fall, is that it is not as high as they expected ; but this feeling soon gives way to that of grandeur and amazement. The water is confined into such a narrow space upon the brink of the Fall (less than 200 feet) that it at first looks smaller than expected. But the vast quantity of water, and the beautiful shape it takes in falling, soon almost entrance the beholder. Then, too, the fact that from every good point of view the beholder is so far above the brink of the Fall, makes it seem not so high. But as one begins to comprehend the wonderful depth of the canon beneath him, the Falls soon seem to loom up until he is quite willing to pro- nounce them 350 feet. This is the measurement given in both Prof. Hayden’s and Captain Jones’ official reports ; the latter, I believe, having actually measured it with a line. The height of 367 feet was once obtained by barometrical measurement. Great American Wonderland. 59 There is a trail leading to brink of Falls. But the best points from which to view the Falls are along the canon at different places, as far down as Point Lookout. Point Lookout is about one mile below the Falls. THE GRAND CANON. This is the part of the Park that tongue or pen can give no adequate idea of. The author had read •many — what he thought — fine descriptions of it before seeing it ; but when he beheld it, he could not help ex- claiming, “ The half was never told.” But since some explanation of it may be expected in a book of this kind, and since all who read this book may not be able to visit the Park and see for themselves, I will give some brief descriptions, from the pens of those much more gifted in descriptive powers than myself. Prof. Hay- den says : — “ But no language can do justice to the won- derful grandeur and beauty of the Canon below the Lower Falls; the very nearly vertical walls, slightly sloping down to the water’s edge on either side, so that from the summit the river appears like a thread of silver foaming over its rocky bottom ; the variegated colors of the^sides — yellow, red, brown, white — all inter- mixed and shading into each other ; the gothic columns of every form, standing out from the sides of the walls with greater variety and more striking colors than ever 60 Great American Wonderland. adorned a work of human art. The margins of the Canon on either side are beautifully fringed with pines. In some places the walls of the Canon are composed of massive basalt, so separated by the jointage as to look like irregular mason-work going to decay. Here and there a depression in the surface of the basalt has been subsequently filled up by the more modern deposit, and the horizontal strata of sandstone can be seen. The de- composition and the colors of the rocks must have been due largely to hot water from the springs, which has percolated all through, giving to them the present va- riegated and unique appearance- Standing near the margin of the Lower Falls, and looking down the Canon which looks like an immense chasm or clift in the basalt, with its sides 1200 to 1500 feet high, and decorated with the most brilliant colors that the human eye ever saw, with the rocks weathered into an almost unlimited va- riety of forms, with here and there a pine sending its roots into the clefts on the sides, as if struggling with a sort of uncertain success to maintain an existence — the whole presents a picture that would be difficult to sur- pass in nature. Mr. Thomas Moran, a celebrated artist, and noted for his skill as a colorist, exclaimed with a kind of regretful enthusiasm, that these beautiful tints were beyond the reach of human art. It is not the depth alone that gives such an impression of grandeur to the mind, but it is also the picturesque forms and coloring.” The above I have quoted as fully because it is authentic, being taken from Prof. Hayden’s official re- Great American Wonderland. 61 port of his geological survey of this region. Mr. Rich- ardson says : — “ It has no parallel in the world. Through the eye alone, can any just idea be gained of its strange, awful, fascinating, unearthly blending of the majestic and the beautiful ; and even in its visible presence the mind fails to comprehend the weird and unfamiliar, al- most incredible scenes it reveals.” The author had the pleasure of sitting beside and conversing with the famous American artist, Bierstadt, as he was seated on a point in the Grand Canon about 400 feet below the surface — engaged in reproducing in oil, upon canvas, the Grand Canon and Falls. It was indeed marvelous to see with what rapidity and accu- racy these scenes were by him transferred to the canvas. He then remarked to me that a different picture could be taken at almost every hour in the day, since a differ- ence in the direction of the sun’s rays made a difference in the appearance of the colors in the Canon. Many tourists are ambitious to make the descent to the water’s edge in this Canon. There is an unsafe foot trail to bottom of Canon, starting down the bed of the little stream just at the right of Point Lookout. It is an under- taking which — aside from being dangerous — scarcely repays one for the exertion necessary, since from any obtainable point at the water’s edge, the Falls cannot be 62 Great American Wonderland. seen, because of the crookedness of the stream and the precipitous walls of the Canon. The finest points from which to view the Canon are from one to two miles below the Lower Falls. None should fail to go down the trail close to the Canon for at least three miles below the Falls, viewing from all pro- jecting and safely attainable points in that distance. About three miles below the great Falls, perhaps four, on opposite side of the Canon, is a beautiful fall of a small stream. The water enters at brink of Canon, which at this place must be at least 1500 feet deep, and nearly perpendicular. It is a fall worth going to see. This Canon trail may be traveled all the way to Tower Creek. But it was the experience of those who used it this summer, and who had before traveled the old trail leading to the left from Falls, near Cascade Creek — that the old trail, passing on the west of the summit of Mt. Washburn, is much the better trail. But it perhaps is much as I heard a man say of these trails this season, “ Whichever trail you go, you’ll wish you’d gone the other one.” None will be, or no one should be in a hurry to get away from this camp. And this leads me to mention that the best place to camp at the Falls and Canon, is up along the little stream which passes under the Bridge on the trail at Point Lookout. There is a trail leading Great American Wonderland. 63 from this Bridge up through the timber, just west of the little stream. The camping grounds will be found in less than one-fourth of a mile up this trail. This camp is convenient to the finest part of the Canon, and to the best points from which to view ; but more than all, con- venient to the finest water and good grass a little far- ther north on same trail. The writer knows whereof he speaks, as he was eamped at this place ten days the present season. TWIN FALLS AND SAFETY VALVE GEYSER. About ten miles below the Falls there is a trail made leading down into the Canon. It is called “Trail to Twin Falls and Safety Valve Geyser .” The writer, with Mr. Calfee, went to the water’s edge down this trail; took our horses until we had descended to a depth of 1200 feet by an Aneroid barometer, then about 200 feet to brink of river without them. This trip can only be recommended for the most venturesome. Very few, I think, will feel repaid for the risk, time spent, and trouble experienced. The scenery is not remarkable. The Geyser is little more than a small escape vent for steam. There is much evidence of there having been a large geyser basin a little farther down the trail from this steam escape. The enterprise of the worthy Superintendent of 64 Great American Wonderland. Park, shown in his skill in finding and zeal in opening ways to these out-of-the-way places, is certainly com- mendable; but we are not of those who either go into ecstasies over these minor objects of interest, or try to lead others into places where they will generally regret having gone. CRYSTAL FALLS. Between the Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellow- stone, are the Crystal Falls of Cascade Creek. The trail passes over a strong bridge just a little above these Falls, and exactly over the beautiful Grotto Pool. Good strong ladders from the bridge give the tourist the opportunity of visiting and resting by the side of this Pool, and of standing at brink of these Falls. The only opportunity for fishing in the locality 01 Falls, is had by descending this little Creek to the Yellow- stone. The fish are good and plentiful between the Falls of Yellowstone, but generally wormy above. On leaving the Falls and canon for Mt. Washburn, the westward, and at present better trail leaves the river near Cascade Creek, on the eastward bank. The other trail follows the Grand Canon about four miles. MT. WASHBURN. The summit of Washburn is reached by turning to the right from the highest point on the trail. The Great American Wonderland. 65 summit being about two miles from the trail, tourists can ride to the summit. On the river trail the summit is reached by turning to the left from highest point on trail. The ascent is not so easily made on this side and the distance is greater. None should think it too much fatigue and trouble to go to the summit of this grand old Mountain. The view obtained from this point is so learnedly and attractively expressed by Prof. Hayden that I again quote from his report : — “ The view from the summit of Mt. Washburn is one of the finest I have ever seen ; and although the atmos- phere was somewhat obscured by smoke (not often the case), yet an area of fifty to 100 miles radius in every direction could be seen more or less distinctly. We caught the first glimpse of the great Basin of the Yellow- stone (he was traveling south) with the Lake, which reminded one much, from its bays, indentations and surrounding mountains, of Great Salt Lake. To the south are the Tetons, rising high above all the rest, the monarchs of all they survey, with their summits covered with perpetual snow. To the southwest an im- mense area of dense pine forests extends for 100 miles without a peak rising above the black level map. A little farther to the southwest and west are the Madison Mountains, a lofty, grand, snow-capped range, extend- ing far to the northward. Nearer and in full view, to the west, commence the bold peaks of the Gallatin Range, extending northward as far as the eye can reach. To the north we get a full view of the Valley -5 bee-hive geyser. Great American Wonderland. 67 of the Yellowstone, with the lofty ranges that wall it in. “ Emigrant Peak and the splendid group of moun- tains of which it is a part, can be clearly seen ; and lose none of their marvelous beauty of outline, view them from what point we may. To the north and east the eye scans the most remarkable, chaotic mass of peaks of the most rugged character, apparently without system, yet sending their jagged summits high up among the clouds. Farther distant are somewhat more regular ranges, snow-covered — probably the Big Horn. But with all this magnificent scenery around us from every side, the greatest beauty was the Lake, in full view to the southeast, like a gem amid the high mountains, which are literally bristling with peaks, many of them capped with snow. These are all of volcanic origin, and the fantastic shapes which many of them have assumed under the hand of Time, called forth a variety of names from my party. There were two of them which represented the human profile so well that we called them the ‘ Giant’s Face ’ and ‘ Old Man of the Mountains.’ These formed good land marks for the topographer, for they were visible from every point of the Basin.” In passing over Mt. Washburn the lover of rocks may find many fine specimens of — sometimes — agates, beau- tiful fragments of sardonyx, chalcedony, and malachite. But the chief attraction in passing this mountain range, is the wonderful variety and abundance of most beautiful 68 Great American Wonderland. flowers. The writer camped one night in a little park near the summit of this Mountain, in first week in August. We obtained our water from under the edge of a great snow-bank, and the water froze in our camp that night, forming ice one-fourth of an inch thick ; and so it was every night, and yet the beautiful green grass and endless variety of flowers in the little park showed no signs of frost, after being warmed and cheered by the bright sun. This is one of the wonders of Wonder- land — t-hat the flowers are not injured by the almost nightly frosts. The distance over this Mountain or range is twelve miles. Descending the Mountain the grade' is very gradual toward Tower Creek , which is seventeen miles from Yellowstone Falls. TOWER FALLS. This is one of the most delightful camps in the Park. Good grass, water of the Creek as cold as ice, and every- thing in scenery calculated to cheer, comfort, and rest the tourist. And here, too, is the finest fishing place in the Park. Not in Tower Creek above the Falls, but in Yellowstone about the mouth of Tower Creek ; and the fish are all healthy and good here. Grasshoppers, which are usually plentiful here, are the best bait. Every grasshopper caught means a fish, as the writer from experience can testify. Mr. Calfee and myself, after a Great American Wonderland. 69 days’ hard work, went down to the river to catch fish for supper. Mr. Calfee captured seven hoppers and I got one. We went and fished. I caught one fish, and he only caught seven with all his hoppers ; so I did as well at fishing as he did. There are two Falls here, same as in Yellowstone, an upper and a lower Falls. The upper are just a few rods above the lower ; very pretty, but not very high. Many have pronounced Tower Falls a finer sight than the great Falls of Yellowstone. In point of simple beauty, they do compare favorably ; but the feeling of grandeur inspired by the great Falls is, of course, lacking here. The water falls, in a concentrated form, 156 feet without a touch of wall or rock before it meets the pool below. Because of the wonderful rapidity of the stream, it seems to be hurled from the brink as if from the nozzle of a great hose-pipe. This Fall takes its name from the beautiful pinnacles or towers, which stand perpendic- ular at either side of the brink. “Nothing,” says Lieut. Doan, “ can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely cascade, hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods, its very voice hushed to a low murmur — unheard at the distance of a few hundred yards. Thousands might pass by within a half mile, and not dream of its existence ; but once seen, it passes to the list of most pleasant memories.” The tourist can get to the foot of these Falls without 70 Great American Wonderland. much trouble ; and will feel greatly repaid for the fatigue experienced in climbing the steep trail. Leaving here, the trail crosses Tower Creek upon a bridge; and going up a very steep hill, the wagon road from Mammoth Hot Springs is found. This is the terminus of the wagon road at present, and will be for some time. Three miles farther brings the tourist to JACK BARONET’S BRIDGE. This Bridge has been built and used chiefly by those interested in the Clark's Fork Mines, which are eastward from this Bridge thirty-five miles. Tourists who visit Specimen Mountain, Soda Butte Springs, and Hoodoo Basin, cross the Yellowstone upon this Bridge. As there does not one tourist in 500 visit these points, their description is left for another part of the book ; and for the convenience of the general tourist, the tour is com- pletedhere without this description. Mammoth Springs is eighteen miles from this Bridge, and is the last object- ive point of the trip. About one mile from the Bridge a beautiful grassy valley is entered, called Pleasant Valley. To the southwest of this valley, just before beginning the ascent of the hill, and about four miles from the Bridge, is the PETRIFIED FOREST Or, more truthfully, the petrified trees that give rise to Great American Wonderland. 71 the name “Petrified Forest.” There are but a few of these trunks of old trees still standing, but they are real pet- rifactions, and well worth turning from the road to see. The road from Bridge to Mammoth Springs is a pleasant one, mostly through open country. The next object of special interest after leaving the petrified trees, is the EAST GARDNER RIVER FALLS. These Falls cannot be missed, as the road passes very close to them. There is here, too, an upper and a lower Fall. This Fall or Falls being, I believe, the tenth Falls or cascades, mentioned in this tour of the Park. These Falls will be highly appreciated by all tourists. Three miles farther on and the tourist is at the Mammoth Hot Springs, the place of starting on this tour now completed. HOODOO BASIN. This singular locality, lately discovered, is fifty miles southeast from Baronet’s Bridge. The trail to it is over and through a very wild and rough country ; has just been opened this year, and is, on that account, not very inviting to the ordinary tourist. In the country traversed by this trail, there is and will be, until travel is greatly increased, a better chance for finding game than in most parts of the Park. This Hoodoo region is not, as the name “Basin” 72 Great American Wonderland. would indicate, a low flat place surrounded by hills or mountains, but is itself situated high upon a mountain, is not seen or detected at a distance ; but once entered, it is interesting in the extreme. Col. Norris, in his report of this region, says : “ Hoodoo Mountain is evidently of volcanic origin, and was eroded into its present form. Upon its southern face it is still changing. Here, extending from 500 to 1500 feet below the summit, the frosts and storms of untold ages in an Alpine climate have worn about a dozen labyrinths of countless deep, nar- row, torturous channels amid the long, slender, totter- ing pillars, shafts and spires of the conglomerate — breccia and other remaining volcanic rocks.” In shape they resemble almost every conceivable form of animal, as well as human beings. SPECIMEN MOUNTAIN. Specimen Mountain is of little interest, aside from the fact of specimens being found there. These consist almost entirely of pieces of petrified wood. And this is difficult to find unless some one well acquainted with the locality be along, to show where specimens may be found. This place is about two miles from the bridge, southeast. SODA BUTTE SPRINGS Are fourteen miles from the bridge, and are noted for Great American Wonderland. 73 being strongly impregnated with soda, making a deli- cious drink. The scenery from the bridge to Clark’s Fork Mines, thirty-five miles, is very fine. These Mines are at pres- ent promising well, and those interested in them are anxiously awaiting the ratification by .Congress of the treaty made with the Crow Indians last season, by which treaty this portion of country is given back to the general Government. THEORY OF THE CAUSES OF GEYSER ACTION. Since the question, “What causes all this action and heat?” very naturally arises, and is very frequently heard in the Park, it may not be out of place to give here, in as simple a form as possible, the theory supported by the best geologists and scientists, among them the re- nowned Professors Dana, Bunsen, and Tyndall. Every- thing in the region of these hot-water localities proves this portion of our country to have been of volcanic origin. The theory, based upon the conclusion that the interior of the earth is a heated, molten mass, is that there are fissures, or conduits, reaching down through the earth’s crust, in these localities, to the heated rocks of the interior. The water, which is ordinarily found beneath the surface of the ground finds, the conduits and naturally enough percolates or runs down them, in obedience to the laws of gravitation. This water meets the heat as- 74 Great American Wonderland. cending through the vent, or itself comes in contact with heated rocks, is converted into steam, which ascends, heating the water above, and in thus passing through the descending water, heats and boils the water at the surface ; and in this manner the boiling pools are ac- counted for. The geyser action is caused by the de- scending water confining the steam below until an im- mense quantity is generated, which, in its final effort to escape, causes what may be termed an explosion; and being confined in every direction — save that of the ori- fice — by strong walls of rock, the escape is made in the direction of and through the orifice, projecting the water, — which is above and has been confining the steam — to great heights ; much steam escapes with the water, but the greater amount of steam is thrown out after the water has been exhausted. The water is heated by the steam constantly, working its way up through it. The beautiful and different colors surrounding these pools or geysers are due to the composition of the rocks through which the vents or fissures pass, and portions of which are dissolved by the water, and carried to the sur- face, and there deposited in the formation and channels about the orifice. EARLIEST PUBLICATIONS CONCERNING THE PARK. It is indeed strange that this remarkable portion of country, now set apart by our Government as National Great American Wonderland. 75 pleasure-grounds, has been known to the world for so short a time. It may be authentically stated that the Park has been known to the general public for the short period of eleven years. Although trappers and prospectors had at different times passed through and seen some portions of the Park, and had tried to convince others of what they beheld, yet their stories were received as characteristic lies, and the general public lived on in ignorance of the fact that the greatest natural wonders of the world existed within the borders of our republic. The first published statement of these wonders, that the author could find, is that given below, taken from the Montana Post. The communication was dated Yel- lowstone City, Montana, August 18, 1867. Yellowstone City was a thriving mining village, nearer the boundary of the Park than any town at present is. The com- munication was written by Davis Willson, now of Bozeman, Montana. As will be seen, his information was obtained second-handed. The article is given entire for the purpose of showing how exaggerated were the ideas then obtained of what is now so well known : — “A portion of the Bear Gulch stampeders has returned. They have been to the Lake at the head of Yellowstone, and report the greatest wonder of the age.. 76 Great American Wonderland. For eight days they traveled through a volcanic country emitting blue flames, living streams of molten brim- stone, and almost every variety of minerals known to chemists. The appearance of the country was smooth and rolling, with long level plains intervening. On the summits of these rolling mounds, were craters from four to eight feet in diameter ; and everywhere upon the level plains, dotting them like prairie-dog holes, were smaller ones, from four to six inches and upwards. The steam and blaze were constantly discharging from these subterranean channels, in regular evolutions or exhaustions, like the boilers of our steamboats, and gave the same roaring, whistling sound. As far as the eye could trace, this motion was observed. They were fear- ful to ascend to the craters, lest the thin crust should give way and swallow them. Mr. Hubbel (one of the party), who has visited this region before, ventured to approach one of the smaller ones. As he neared its mouth, his feet broke through, and the blue flame and smoke gushed forth, enveloping him. Dropping upon his body, he crawled to w T ithin a couple of feet of the •crater, and saw that the crust around its edge was thin, like a wafer. Lighting a match, he extended it to the mouth and instantly it was on fire. The hollow ground resounded beneath their feet as they traveled on, and every moment it seemed liable to break through and bury them in its fiery vaults. The atmosphere was intensely suffocating, and they report that life could not long be sustained there. Not a living thing— bird or beast — was seen in the vicinity. The prospectors Great American Wonderland. 77- have given it the significant name — ‘Hell !’ They declare they have been to that ‘bad place,’ and even seen the ‘Devil s horns.;’ but through the interposi- tion of Providence (not to speak profanely), their ‘souls have been delivered,’ and they emphatically aver, if a ‘ straight and narrow’ course, during their sojourn on the Yellowstone, will save them, they will never gO' there again.” This article was copied throughout the country by other papers, and doubtless served to awaken an inter- est concerning this unknown land; yet the general pub- lic were indebted for their first knowledge of the marvels of this region, to the reports of an expedition organized in the summer of 1870, by some of the officials and leading citizens of Montana. This was the com- pany led by General Washburn. Mr. N. P. Langford’s account of this expedition was given in the second volume of Scribner's Monthly Magazine. Lieutenant Doan’s report of the same was published by the Govern- ment, and given to the world somewhat later.. Follow- ing these came Prof. Hayden’s reports. The follow- ing contains so muqh concise information regarding the early history of the Park that it is copied from Mr.. Richardson’s book. 78 Great American Wonderland. THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. (Taken from Richardson’s “Wonders of the Yellowstone”). As soon as Dr. Hayden could make known officially the results of his exploration of the Yellowstone Basin, action was begun to secure the reservation of a portion at least of the marvelous scenes which it embraces, for the undivided benefit, enjoyment, and instruction of the * country at large. A hill to this effect was introduced into the Senate of the United States, on the 18th of December, 1871, by Hon. S. C. Pomeroy, of Kansas. About the same time a similar bill was offered in the House of Representa- tives by Hon. William H. Claggett, delegate from Montana. The hill was referred to the Committees on Public Lands in both houses, who, after due considera- tion, returned with approbation the following report prepared by Dr. Hayden : — “ The hill now before Congress has for its object the withdrawal from settlement, occupancy, or sale, under the laws of the United States, a tract of land fifty-five by sixty-five miles, about the sources of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers, and dedicates and sets it apart as Great American Wonderland. 79 a great National Park, or pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. The entire area com- prised within the limits of the reservation contemplated in this bill, is not susceptible of cultivation with any degree of certainty, and the winters would be too severe for stock-raising. Whenever the altitude of the moun- tain districts exceeds 6000 feet above tide-water, their settlement becomes problematical, unless there are valu- able mines to attract people. The entire area within the limits of the proposed reservation is over 6000 feet in altitude; and the Yellowstone Lake, which occupies an area fifteen by twenty-two miles, or 330 square miles, is 7427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the valleys in on every side rise to the height of 10000 and 12000 feet and are covered with snow all the year. These mountains are all of volcanic origin, and it is not probable that any mines or minerals of value w T ill ever be found there. During the months of June, July, and August the climate is pure and most invigorating, with scarcely any rain or storms of any kind; but the thermometer frequently sinks as low as 26°. There is frost every month of the year. The whole region was, in comparatively modern geological times, the scene of the most wonderful volcanic activity of any portion of our country. The hot springs and the geysers represent the last stages— the vents or escape-pipes— of these remarkable volcanic manifestations of the internal forces. All these springs are adorned with decorations more beautiful than human art ever conceived, and which have required 80 Great American Wonderland. CRYSTAL FOREST, MAMMOTH SPRINGS. Great American Wonderland. 81 thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. Persons are now waiting for the spring to open, to enter in and take possession of these remarkable curiosities, to make merchandise of these beautiful specimens, to fence in rare wonders, so as to charge visit- ors a fee, as is now done at Niagara Falls, for the sight of that which ought to be as free as the air or water. “In a few years this region will be a place of resort for all classes of people from all portions of the world. The geysers of Iceland, which have been objects of inter- est for the scientific men and travelers of the entire world, sink into insignificance in comparison with the hot springs of Yellowstone and Fire Hole Basins. As a place of resort for invalids, it will not be excelled by any portion of the world. If this bill fails to become a law this session, the vandals who are now waiting to enter into this Wonderland will, in a single season, despoil, beyond recovery, these remarkable curiosities, which have required all the cunning skill of nature thousands of years to prepare. “We have already shown that no portion of this tract can ever be made available for agricultural or mining purposes. Even if the altitude and the climate would permit the country to be made available, not over fifty square miles of the entire area could ever be settled. The valleys are all narrow, and hemmed in by high vol- canic mountains like gigantic walls. “ The withdrawal of this tract, therefore, from sale or settlement takes nothing from the value of the pub- lic domain, and is no pecuniary loss to the Government, —6 82 Great American Wonderland. but will be regarded by the entire civilized world as a step of progress and an honor to Congress and the nation.” In the Senate the bill was ably advocated by Messrs. Pomeroy, Edmunds, Trumbull, Anthony and others. In the House the favorable remarks of Hon. H. L. Dawes were so clear and forcible that the bill was passed without opposition. The text of the Act is as follows : — “ Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled , That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming, lying near the head-waters of the Yellow- stone River, and described as follows, to-wit, commenc- ing at the junction of Gardiner’s River with the Yel- lowstone River, and running east to the meridian pass- ing ten miles to the eastward of the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake ; thence south along said meridian to the parallel of latitude passing ten miles south of the most southern point of Yellowstone Lake ; thence west along said parallel to the meridian passing fifteen miles west of the most western point of Madison Lake ; thence north along said meridian to the latitude of the junc- tion of the Yellowstone and Gardiner’s River; thence east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasuring-ground for the ben- efit and enjoyment of the people ; and all persons who Great American Wonderland. sa shall locate or settle upon or occupy the same, or any part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered trespassers and removed therefrom. “ Sec. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and pub- lish such rules and regulations as he may deem neces- sary or proper for the care and management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the preserva- tion, from injury or spoliation, of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities or wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural condition. The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for building purposes for terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of ground, at such places in said park as shall require the erection of buildings for the accom- modation of visitors ; all of the proceeds of said leases, and all other revenues that may be derived from any source connected with said park, to be expended under his direction in the management of the same, and the construction of roads and bridle-paths therein. He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said park, and against their capture or destruction for the purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of this act to be removed there- from, and generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects and purposes of this act.” This Act was approved March 1, 1872 ; and shortly 84 Great American Wonderland. after the Hon. N. P. Langford, whose graphic descrip- tions of the Wonders of the Yellowstone first called public attention thereto, was appointed Superintendent of the Park. Great American Wonderland. 85 PRACTICAL OBSERVATIONS. BEST TIME TO VISIT PARK. From July 1st to September 1st is the best season for visiting the Park, and even so early as September 15th tourists are sometimes caught in snow-storms. August is really the best month, as flies and mosquitoes are troublesome in July. SMOKED EYEGLASSES. As the formation in Geyser Basins, at Mammoth Hot Springs, Sulphur Mountain, and at other places, is almost as white as snow, the reflection of the light is very injurious and even painful to the eyes. All tour ists should be provided with smoked glasses. GOING ARMED. There is no need of carrying arms for protection in the Park. There is no danger to life from either Indians or wild animals; and as game is so seldom seen, that for this purpose it is not necessary to carry guns. AMOUNT OF PROVISIONS. Take at least double the amount of provisio n 86 Great American Wonderland. think you will need, as you will find your appetite in- creases as the altitude increases, and as the time you are out lengthens. KIND OF PROVISIONS. For a camping-out season in this mountainous region and high altitude, a great variety of diet is not required. Plenty of bacon, flour, sugar, yeast powder, and tea or coffee are the essentials and substantials, and will relish well. For fruits, the dried varieties are the best and most convenient. PATIENCE. Take along a large supply of patience, as that is usually the first article exhausted, and the one most needed in a trip of this kind. SIZE OF PARTIES. Parties should not be too large, four or six persons, not counting attendants, being the most convenient number. Larger parties, I have noticed, cannot travel so well nor so fast. Nor can they enjoy the ease and freedom of smaller parties, and there are greater oppor- tunities for petty disagreements. CLEAR UNDERSTANDINGS BEFORE HAND. Have clear understandings concerning all the Great American Wonderland. 87 details of the trip before starting out, and thus avoid quarrels and misunderstandings so likely to occur. The writer has seen the pleasure of many parties marred by quarrels or differences which could have been avoided by having clear understandings from the first. Companions for camping-out trips should be selected with the greatest care. COOL NIGHTS. As the nights are always cool, too great a supply of bedding is not often taken. Rubber blankets should always be placed between the bedding and the ground to prevent dampness from penetrating the bedding. GUIDES. Guides are not much needed, but packers are; and as these two accomplishments are usually found com- bined in the same person, it is well to secure the services of one who calls himself a guide; and as tourists are frequently imposed upon by men professing com- petency in this particular, and who possess no qualifica- tions whatever to render them worthy of patronage, I will mention here the names of a few whom I know to be entirely trustworthy, and who have been through the Park many times with distinguished tourists : George Houston, chief scout for General Howard in his memor- able campaign through this country, and guide for 88 Great American Wonderland. Ex-Secretary Sherman the present season; Nelson Gatlin, who has gnidecl many English parties; George Rowland, Sam Jackson, E. Hofer and F. D. Nelson. All of these will furnish both saddle and pack animals, with complete camp outfits, for either large or small parties, and will meet tourists at any point they desire. Letters to any of these men, directed to Bozeman, Montana, will find them. The above information is given without either the knowledge or solicitation of these men, and hence is not given as an advertisement for them. Ore at American Wonderland. 89 TABLE OF DISTANCES BETWEEN PRINCIPAL POINTS IN PARK. MILES. Bozeman to Mammoth Springs 73 Mammoth Springs to Middle Falls on Gardiner River 5 Mammoth Springs to Rustic Falls 5 Willow Park 10 — 15 Obsidian Cliffs... 2 — 17 Lake of the Woods . 4 — 21 Norris Fork of Gibbon 6-27 Norris Geyser Basin s — 27 J Gibbon Meadows 5J — 33 Monument Geysers and return 2 — 35 Falls of the Gibbon... 5 — 40 Lower Geyser Basin 5 — 45 Upper Geyser Basin 11 — 56 :Shoshone Lake 10 — 66 Yellowstone Lake 10 — 76 Natural Bridge 20 — 96 Mud Geysers 14 — 110 Sulphur Mountain 4- -114 Great Falls 6-120 Mt. W ashburn 10 — 130 Tower Falls 10 — 140 Jack Baronet’s Bridge 3 — 143 Mammoth Springs 18 — 161 MILES. Lower Geyser Basin to Mud Geysers 24 Mud Geysers to Lake 6 Jack Baronet’s Bridge to Hoodoo Basin 50 “ “ “ Clark’s Fork Mines 35 Soda Butte Springs 12 “ Specimen Mountain 2 Virginia City to Lower Geyser Basin 98 90 Great American Wonderland. TABLE OF ALTITUDES OF PRINCIPAL POINTS. FROM PROF. HAYDEN, GOV’T GEOLOGIST’S REPORTS. Bozeman, Montana Mammoth Hot Springs Mt. Washburn Lower Geyser Basin.... Upper Geyser Basin Yellowstone Lake Brink of Great Falls... Mouth of Tower Creek FEET. 4900 6100 10338 7250 7400 7788 7485 6207 Great American Wonderland. 91 RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE YELLOW- STONE NATIONAL PARK. Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C., May 4, 1881. 1. The cutting or spoliation of timber within the- Park is strictly forbidden by law. Also the removing of mineral deposits, natural curiosities or wonders, or the displacement of the same from their natural condi- tion. 2. Permission to use the necessary timber for pur- poses of fuel, and such temporary buildings as may be required for shelter and like uses, and for the collection of such specimens of natural curiosities as can be re- moved without injury to the natural features or beauty of the grounds, must be obtained from the Superintend- ent; and must be subject at all times' to his supervis- ion and control. 3. Fires shall only be kindled when actualty neces- sary, and shall be immediately extinguished when no longer required. Under no circumstances must they be left burning when the place where they have been m Great American Wonderland, TOWEK FALLS. Great American Wonderland. 9a kindled shall be vacated by the party requiring their use. 4. Hunting, trapping and fishing, except for pur- poses of procuring food for visitors or actual residents, are prohibited by law ; and no sales of game or fish taken inside the Park shall be made for purposes of profit within its boundaries or elsewhere. 5. Xo person will be permitted to reside perma- nently within the Park without permission from the Department of the Interior ; and any person residing therein, except under lease, as provided in Section 2475 of the Revised Statutes, shall vacate the premises within thirty days after being notified in writing so to do by the person in charge ; notice to be served upon him in person or left at his place of residence. 6 The sale of intoxicating liquors is strictly pro- hibited. 7. All persons trespassing within the domain of said Park, or violating any of the foregoing rules, will be summarily removed therefrom by the Superintend- ent and his authorized employes, who are, by direction of the Secretary of the Interior, specially designated to carry into effect all necessary regulations for the protec- tion and preservation of the Park, as required by the statute; which expressly provides that the same “shall he under the exclusive control of the Secretary of D4 Great American Wonderland. the Interior, whose duty it shall be to make and publish such rules and regulations as he shall deem necessary or proper;” and who, “ generally, shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be nec- essary or proper to fully carry out the object and pur- poses of this act.” Resistance to the authority of the Superintendent, or repetition of any offense against the foregoing regula- tions, shall subject the outfits of such offenders and all prohibited articles to seizure, at the discretion of the -Superintendent or his assistant in charge. Approved : S. J. KIRKWOOD, P. W. NORRIS. Secretary. Superintendent. Great American Wonderland. 95 WAYS OF REACHING AND COST OF VISITING THE PARK. The route to the Park most convenient and most practicable from now on will be the Northern Pacific by way of St. Paul. This road is rapidly extending, and by the time tourists desire to visit the Park the coming season, will, in all probability, have reached a point as near to, if not nearer, the Park than the nearest point of the Utah and Northern Railroad. With regard to the accommodation of tourists who desire to visit the Park, and others wishing to visit Montana, Mr. G. K. Barnes, General Passenger and Ticket Agent of the Northern Pacific Railroad, author- izes me to say that it is his intention to run a series of excursions from St. Paul to the terminus of the road, during the present season, beginning with June and closing with September, running one excursion per month. He ran one in September, last season, which met with universal satisfaction to all who accompanied it; and in every way it was a pronounced success — both in numbers, accommodations, and satisfaction to the entire party. 96 Great American Wonderland. The plan proposed is to leave St. Paul about the middle of each month, beginning with June, using only Pullman Palace Sleeping-cars during the entire trip, until the party shall have returned to St. Paul, the rates charged to include sleeping-car accommodations. While it is yet too early to fix definite rates, Mr. Barnes approximates rates to be : St. Paul to terminus of track and return, about $60 for the round trip. Tickets good for continuous passage on this train, for parties desiring to accompany it, which will make a continuous run, night and day, until the journey is completed, that por- tion of the trip gone over by night going out, to be gone over by daylight on the return trip. The rate for parties who extend their trip from end of track thence to Boze- man, and from there to the Park, will have an extension of time, and their tickets will be increased between St. Paul and terminus, or about $75. Added to this the stage rate from terminus of track to Bozeman, and thence to the Park, which will be about twenty cents per mile for the round trip, will give approximate cost of getting into the Park. The distance from Miles City to Bozeman is 325 miles, and from Bozeman to the Park seventy-five miles. The track is expected to be running to Coulson, where the road crosses the Yellowstone River, about June, and each month will shorten the distance of the stage route to Bozeman about fifty miles. Great American Wonderland. 97 The trains on which this excursion will be carried, will be accompanied by the General Passenger Agent himself, who will stop the train at interesting points a sufficient length of time to visit and to take in all points that will be of interest to the excursionists. He will also smooth the way as much as he can by telegraphing ahead for meals, and in every way will add to the comfort and convenience of the party, which lies within his province. He advises, as far as it can be done, for parties to take lunches with them, extra wrap- pings to use in case of an emergency on the road, and to read up before starting, as much as can be done, a description of the country. The purchase of Mr. Wylie’s Hand-book, descriptive of the Yellowstone, the National Park, and the Wonderland of America, is suggested as the most reliable way of arriving at this information. The Northern Pacific Company are having hotels and eating-houses built along the route, and passengers may rest assured that there will be an abundance to eat while en route. Due notice of dates and accommodations will be published in suitable advertising matter; at the £ame time it is suggested that parties who desire taking this trip will do well to correspond with G. K. Barnes, Gen- eral Passenger and Ticket Agent, Northern Pacific Rail- road, St. Paul, Minnesota. 98 Great American Wonderland. At Bozeman tourists can procure everything they need for a complete outfit, viz : Provisions, tents, heavy clothing, horses (both pack and saddle horses), guides, etc., at rates very closely approximating those given in the accompanying list : — Saddle-horses $ 30 00 to $ 75 00 Pack-animals 30 00 to 50 00 Saddles 10 00 to 25 00 Pack-saddles . 3 00 to 5 00 Wagon (new) 100 00 to 140 00 Tent 10 00 to 15 00 Flour, per 100 lbs 2 50 to 3 50 Beans, per lb 12 to 15 Coffee, per lb 25 to 35 Tea, per lb 40 to 1 25 Bice, per lb • Dried fruit, per lb 15 16 to 20 Yeast powder, per lb 40 to 50 Bacon, per lb 22 to 22 Guides or packers for those who desire that luxury $ 3 00 to $ 5 00 per day. Saddle-horses hired with saddles furnished 1 50 to 2 00 “ “ Pack-horses, with pack saddles 1 00 to 1 50 “ “ There is a supply store at Mammoth Hot Springs, and also in Lower Geyser Basin, where exhausted sup- plies may be replenished at rates reasonable for the locality, although much dearer than at Bozeman or Vir- ginia City. The above is a list of prices as they now exist. The nearer the railroads come to these points will the prices be reduced correspondingly. Great American Wonderland. 99 I think I may safely state that for the coming sea- son a trip to the Park in large parties, employing every convenience and comfort needed from end of track to and through the Park, returning to the railroad at the end of twenty days from time of leaving it, cannot cost, every expense included, more than $200 per person from St. Paul round to St. Paul again. And I am sure many will go for less than this. But it is a trip that no one will ever regret having made, whatever the expense may have been. ESTABLISHED IN 1866. L. S. WILLSON, BOZEMAN, MONTANA, Clothing, Blankets, Dry Goods BOOTS AND SHOES. Gents Furnishing Goods, Hats & Caps. The above lines are represented by FIRST QUALITY GOODS Especially Adapted to the Country and Climate. Fifteen Years Experience in this Business could hardly fail to Make My Selections Perfect. WITHOUT DOUBT THE Best Outfitting Establishment in the Territory. PRICES AS LOW AS IN ANY EASTERN CITY FOR THE SAME QUALITY OF GOODS. Tourists and the Traveling Public are respectfully invited to take notice and govern themselves accordingly. "Whiter Cooper, Brick Block, Main Street, - BOZEMAN, MONTANA, WHOLESALE & RETAIL DEALER IN Rifles, Shot Guns & Revolvers, AGENT FOR Winchester Repeating Arms Co., Dupont Powder Co., Giant Powder Co., Abbey and Imbries Celebrated Fishing Tackle, a Large Assortment of which is always kept in Stock. I KEEP A LARGE AND WELL SELECTED STOCK OF Winchester Rifles of all Styles. SHARP’S RIFLES IN GREAT VARIETY, Ballard, Burgess and all Other Leading Arms. Of American Manufacture, Which are sold at factory Prices. I also Manufacture Re-loading Implements of Superior Quality, Ex- press Moulds of any Calibre. Send for Sample Bullets. I also Manufacture the Celebrated COOPER RIFLE SIGHTS, COOPER’S NEW IMPROVED EXPRESS SIGHTS. These Sights are used with great success throughout the North- West by Buffalo Hunters and Sportsmen. Try them. Especial Attention given to Outfitting Travelers, Tourists, Sports- men and Hunters with everything in the Sporting Line. Cash Paid for Hides, Robes and Furs, Address : WALTER COOPER, BOZEMAN, MONTANA. BOZEMAN LIYERY, FEED, AND SALE STABLE, Situated next door to the Laclede Hotel, the Only Brick Hotel in Bozeman. I KEEP ON HAND THE BEST TURNOUTS & SAD- DLE STOCK IN THE WEST. Travelers and Tourists will do well to give me a call before dealing elsewhere. OUTFITTING TOURISTS FOR THE PAKK A SPECIALTY. Inquiries in Reference to the Necessary Requirements for the Round Trip and ESTIMATES MADE on Application. My Long Experience and Thorough Knowledge of the Business renders it possible to furnish any DESIRED AMOUNT of Trans- portation on SHORT NOTICE. Give me a call. E. L. FRIDLEY. PONSFORI) & SANBORN’S BILLIARD SALOON NEXT TO LACLEDE HOTEL (BRICK), Bozeman, - Montana. Strangers will find in this Resort a fine supply of Articles to Irrigate with. S M. FITZGERALD. Office at Northern Pacific Stables, BOZEMAN, - - MONTANA. WONDERLAND. Persons wishing to visit the Geysers will please take notice that we keep constantly on hand, Coaches, Buggies, Wagons, Saddle Horses, Pack Animals, Experienced Guides and Packers, and every- thing necessary for parties wishing to make the Grand Tour of the Charges Seasonable. Full information can he obtained by ad- dressing me as above. Parties so desiring can make arrangements with me to meet them at the terminus of the Utah and Northern and Northern Pacific Railroad. We refer, by permission, to John T. Murphy, Helena, and Geo. W.Wakefield, Bozeman. FRANCIS HARPER, General Blaeksmithing. A large Stock of Everything that Travelers, Tourists and Farmers need in this Line, manufactured to order and kept in stock. Mining Picks, Drills, Iron and Steel, Log Chain, Whiffletrees, Neckyokes, Hardwood, etc. BOB-SLEIGHS AND CUTTERS Give the “PIONEER SHOP” a Call. Lower Main St., BOZEMAN, MONTANA. HORSE SHOEING A SPECIALTY. Manufactured in the Best and Latest Styles. Frank Esler, WHOSESALE AND RETAIL Harness & Saddlery, ALL INDIAN GOODS A SPECIALTY. BOZEMAN, - MONTANA, Special Attention given to Outfitting Tourists with all things in Our Line. WILL. F. DAVIS, ATTORNEY AT LAW, COLLECTIONS A SPECIALTY. Town Lots for Sale, and a General Real Estate Business Transacted. BOZEMAN, MONTANA J. Basinski & Bros. — DEALERS IN — FOREIGN & DOMESTIC STATIONERY PAPETERIES& VISITING CARDS, EASEL ALBUMS, VELVET AND PLUSH FRAMES, FINE LEATHER GOODS AND CELLULOID WARE, Silverware, Solid Gold Jewelry and Imported Specialties and Novelties, Agents for H. B. Calfee’s Celebrated Stereoscopic Views of the Yel- lowstone National Park. Main Street, - BOZEMAN, MONTANA, BRANCH HOUS E, MILES CITY, M. T GEO. R. NICHOLS, DEALER IN STOVES AND TINWARE, IRON, STEEL, AND HARDWOOD, QUEENSWARE, GLASS- WARE, LAMPS AND CHANDELIERS, SASH, DOORS, AND BLINDS, PLOWS, RAKES, SHOVELS, AND ALL KINDS OF FARMING IMPLEMENTS. Main Street, Bozeman, Mont. tJ. H. Taylor, DEALER IN BOOKS STATIONERY and FANCY GOODS, Parlor Brackets , Picture Frames and Moldings, Silver-Plated Ware, Wall Paper, Toys and Notions. POSTOFFIGE BUILDING, BOZEMAN - - MONTANA. A. F. SCHMITZ. PAINTER Painting in all its Branches. Paper Hanging and Glazing. BOZ BMAN MONTANA.. NELSON STORY, BANKER* BOZEMAN, - MONTANA. Transacts a General Banking Business. Buys Territorial, County and Government Securities and Warrants, Exchange on the Commercial Centers of the United States Bought and Sold. Collections Made and Proceeds Remitted Promptly. DEPOSITS RECEIVED AND INTENEST ALLOWED ON THE SAME, IF LEFT FOR SPECIFIED TIME. ^NORTHERN PACIFIC HOTEL,*- Main Street. BOZEMAN, MONTANA. This House is Centrally Located and First-Class in Every Department , with Livery Stable in Connection. RATES: Boarding, Per Day, - - $l.SO Board & Lodging, Per Day, - $2.00 GEO. W. WAKEFIELD, PROPRIETOR. LOCKEYS’ OUTFITTING DEPOT. Dealers in STAPLE AND FAN6Y I5R0SER1ES, Hardware & General lerclandise, Manufacturers of Lockeys’ Crackers, Hard Bread, Etc., Horrhe-rrhCLde Candy a Specialty. FLOUR, GRAIN AND PRODUCE, BOUGHT AND SOLD. IAIN STREET, - - - BOZEMAN, MONT. Special attention given to outfitting tourists for the National Park. ESTABLISHED 186G. KLEINSCHMIDT & BRO. Helena, Butte, Deer Lodge, Benton, Bozeman, Jefferson, Boulder Dillon, Radersburg, Silver Bow, Bridgeville and Walkerville. Purchasing: Office No. 8 Wabash ay., Chicago. Wholesale and Retail Dealers in GROCERIES, Wines, Liquois and Cigais, CLOTHING, gents’ furnishing goods, boots and shoes, hats and caps, dey GOODS AND NOTIONS. Forwarders, Freighters, and Commission Merchants. Old and new friends will find us at the AVAN X COURIER BLOCK. ESTABLISHED 1871 THE AVANT COURIER. PUBLISHED EVERY THURSDAY, AT Bozeman, Gallatin Go., Montana. $3.50 Per Annum, in Advance ; Six Months, $2.00; Three Months, $1.00 ; Single Copies, 10 cents. The Avant Courier is thoroughly Independent in all things, Neu- tral in nothing. It is spicy, newsy and reliable. Its Editorial columns always show intelligent thought and careful, energetic work. It has the largest and ablest corps of contributors of any paper in the Territory. In proof of its growing popularity under present management, we need but state that it has quadrupled its circulation during the past four years. Job Printing of every description a specialty. W. W. ALDERSON, Editor and Proprietor. Courier Building, Bozeman Montana. S. W. LANGHORNE, Brick Block , Main St., BOZEMAN , M ONT -DEALER IN- Paints, Oils, WINDOW GLASS PERFUMERY & TOILET ARTICLES, -ALSO DEALER IN- GARDEN, FIELD & FLOWER SEEDS. OF RELIABLE QUALITY. GIVE ME A TRIAL. W-&\VaL