I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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'EXP.LAN 
 
 AT 1 o N of a VI IK W-«f- the CIT ¥ of MAM Ml D, oxliOutijig i» <ho FAN O MAMA, LE 1 V IE S T E R SQUAR E. 
 
 1 Citrceb de Carte, or Stale Prison 
 
 ii.F/azn da St in fa Cruz 
 
 13Pima . Mayor 
 
 20 (dlia/lcrizas / calcs _ Foval Sfables 
 
 ■> Cable San Thomas 
 
 7 Tglesia San .Miguel y San dhsla 
 
 I-l. Alan \ ana res 
 
 2 !Halt a/\//ic lfairs 
 
 3/glesia de San Isidro cl real ' 
 
 t? Ctwiino de Segovia, • 
 
 15 tglesia de Santiago 
 
 Illy lex fa dc .fan .Ha/On 
 
 ■l Cable de Toledo 
 
 9 Aytifamlezito y I'll red de Vida 
 
 16 Peso real ,.f 
 
 23 Convcnfa dc las . Won/as del Firm a/ 
 
 3 tglesia dc i\ iteslra Senora de gratia* 
 
 lOAr/ncria delFalacio 
 
 IJPalacio uaera 
 
 22 Qua rid de fa/a/diax ( oz/is 
 
 with the line o/‘Puddings terming one side' 
 
 11 Convcnlo de Franciscan de Constanli/iofilcii 
 
 1,1 PI Esenrial 
 
 25 Sierras tie Onadai/nmcv >; 
 
 of the plazucla, de la Cehada 
 
 12 Tglesia San Salvador y S .. 1 idiofas 
 
 lUTglesia de Sant Felipe 
 
 26 'Tglesia dc Sanliayo 
 
 27 Campo Santo Arriba 
 2 tt Casa riel C Wr Ugnati. 
 
 13Tg/r.via del Carmen. Calyado 
 ■23tglesia d, San, Felipe el real 
 31 Cable tie los Espateros 
 3'lTgiesia tie .fanZuis.it, the Cable tie la 
 33 Conrento Salesas reales 
 
DESCRIPTION OF A VIEW 
 
 OF 
 
 THE CITY OF MADRID, 
 
 AND 
 
 SURROUNDING COUNTRY, 
 
 NOW EXHIBITING IN THE 
 
 PANORAMA, LEICESTER-SQUARE. 
 
 Donde esta Madrid, calle el Mundo. 
 
 Where Madrid is, let the World be silent. 
 
 Span. Prov. 
 
 PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETORS, 
 
 J. AND R. BURFORD, 
 
 FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN IN THE YEAR 1825, 
 
 BY JR. BURFORD. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY J. AND C. ADLARD, BARTHOLOMEW CLOSE. 
 
 1827 . 
 
 Price Sixpence. 
 
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DESCRIPTION OF THE VIEW OF MADRID. 
 
 The Capital of Spain is situated in the Province of New Castile, in 
 a position extremely favourable for the government of the kingdom, the 
 most distant provinces on every side being equally within its reach; from 
 France on the side of Bayonne the distance is 100 leagues, on the side 
 of Roussillon 120, from the frontiers of Portugal 100 leagues, and 100 
 from that part of Spain which is bounded by the Straits of Gibraltar. The 
 city is of an oblong form from north to south, about two leagues in cir¬ 
 cumference; it stands on several small hills on the banks of the Manzanares, 
 in the midst of a plain of immense extent, bounded on the side of Old 
 Castile by the Guadarrama mountains, and on all the other sides open 
 to the horizon. The city is 2200 feet above the level of the sea, and com¬ 
 mands a most extensive prospect; but the environs present nothing that is 
 picturesque or beautiful: the plain is dry and arid, with but few signs oi 
 cultivation ; even the vine, for which the country is so well calculated, is 
 neglected, and the only trees seen are on the banks of the river, the pro¬ 
 menades and the avenues to the city ;* the distance is equally bleak and dis¬ 
 mal ; although there are a great number of villages, yet, from the unevenness 
 of the ground, scarcely any are visible, and the whole assumes the appear¬ 
 ance of one vast unbroken plain ; the roads are tolerably good, but are 
 much infested with robbers; and the inns are equally dirty and inconvenient 
 with those of other parts of the kingdom: nothing announces to the 
 traveller that he is in the vicinity of the capital of Spain, until he arrives 
 at the noble bridges and magnificent gates by which the city is approached. 
 
 Some writers have attributed the origiuof Madrid to the Greeks, others 
 assert that it was the Mantua Capitanorum of the ancients. The first fact 
 mentioned in history is the sacking by the Moors, in 1109, after the siege 
 of Toledo, of a palace or castle supposed to have been erected in the 11th 
 century, by Alfonzo the 6th of Leon, and 1st of Castile. In the 14th cen¬ 
 tury, during the reign of Peter the Cruel, this palace was destroyed by an 
 earthquake, and was rebuilt by Henry II., his successor. Charles V. being 
 persuaded that he owed his recovery from a dangerous illness to the air 
 and water of Madrid, gave such a reputation to the place, that his son, 
 Philip II., was induced to remove the seat of government from Toledo, 
 the ancient capital, and fix it there, in 1563. 
 
 The city gave signal proofs of fidelity to Philip V. during the war of the 
 succession: twice obliged to fly before the Archduke Charles, he was 
 compelled to abandon Madrid to his conqueror, but Charles found that 
 although he possessed the city, he could not gain the atfections of the people. 
 On his second entry, Dec. 1709, the streets were deserted, the shops closed, 
 and a general appearance of mourning pervaded the city. Visibly chagrined 
 at such a reception, he refused to proceed farther than the Puerta deGuada- 
 laxara; and left the city, exclaiming, “ Es un Corte singente. —It is a court 
 
 * In a work called “Libro de Monteiia del Rey Don Alfonso,” that monarch 
 extols the environs of Madrid for their shady situation and extensive woods, well 
 adapted for hunting stags, wild boars, and bears. 
 
 Leicester Square. is 
 
4 
 
 without inhabitants.” Philip’s return was shortly after celebrated with 
 the most extravagant demonstrations of joy bv the whole population. 
 
 In 1808, the armies of France, under Murat, entered Madrid. Bona¬ 
 parte had long coveted possession of the Peninsula, and, the better to draw 
 the king of Spain into his snare, had led him to hope for the conquest of 
 Portugal, and its union with the Castilian monarchy. Charles IV. had at 
 this time reigned twenty years, governed by a corrupt woman, and by a 
 minister (Godoy) justly hated by the whole nation: during his reign, the 
 navy had been lost, the army diminished, and the treasury exhausted, the 
 laws were evaded, and the nation was on the brink of ruin ; it is not, there¬ 
 fore, surprising, that he should blindly adopt the measures of Bonaparte, 
 whose armies were consequently admitted into all parts of the kingdom. 
 A popular commotion occasioned thedownfal ofGodoy, and Charles, yielding 
 to circumstances, abdicated the throne in favor of his son. Scarcely had 
 Ferdinand been proclaimed, when he was decoyed to Bayonne, and there 
 made prisoner by Bonaparte, who, having gained possession of the sovereign, 
 the capital, and of every strong place between it and France, threw off the 
 mask, declared that the Bourbon dynasty was at an end, and appointed his 
 brother Joseph sovereign of Spain. From the time of Ferdinand’s depar¬ 
 ture, the anxiety and agitation of the people of Madrid had hourly in¬ 
 creased : they saw themselves deprived of their royal family, forsaken by 
 those nobles and statesmen on whom they had hitherto relied, a French 
 governor and a French police established in their city, which was tilled 
 with French troops, towards whose clothing and maintenance they were 
 compelled to contribute, and from whom they received, in return, every 
 species of contempt and insult. On the 30th of April, the Queen of 
 Etruria, and the remainder of the royal family, received orders to depart 
 for Bayonne : during the whale of the following day, as the news spread, 
 a sort of intentional indolence and inquietude was manifested; great crowds 
 assembled in the Puerta del Sol, and adjacent streets, the ordinary duties 
 of the Sabbath were neglected, and it was apparent that a crisis was at 
 hand. The sight of the last members of the royal family leaving their 
 country, could not hut produce a strong sensation on people whose feelings 
 were already racked to distraction. The council strongly recommended 
 their departure in the night; but Murat, who wished to strike a decisive 
 blow', insisted on their setting out at nine on the morning of the 2d. Long 
 before that hour, the palace square was crowded to excess, and, when the 
 princes appeared, the people shewed a determination to prevent their de¬ 
 parture. An aide-de-camp having been assaulted, the guard turned out and 
 fired, and a scene of bloodshed and cruelty commenced which will everl)e 
 remembered with horror: the hatred and indignation which had been so 
 long repressed, now' burst forth, every man who could arm himself in any 
 manner, joined in the attack on the oppressors. The French, taken by 
 surprise, suffered severely before they could collect their troops, of whom 
 there were above 25,000 in and about the city ; they soon, however, 
 poured in on all sides, when resistance became useless; in some parts, the 
 streets were cleared by the cavalry, in others, by repeated discharges of 
 grape from the flying artillery; the infantry fired down every cross street, 
 and into the balconies and windows of the houses. The street of Alcala, 
 the Puerta del Sol, and the Plaza Mayor, were the principal scenes of 
 slaughter; in the latter, the populace withstood several charges, and the 
 commanding officer of the French had three horses killed under him. When 
 the Spaniards took refuge in their houses, all who were found with arms, 
 
5 
 
 even the long knife usually carried by the peasantry, were butchered, as 
 were all who attempted to leave the city. Two officers, Daoiz and Velarde, 
 with twenty soldiers, and a few countrymen, made a gallant defence of the 
 arsenal for a long time, against two columns of the French, who were sent 
 to take possession of this important post: having brought three twenty-four 
 pounders to bear on the three long and narrow approaches to the arsenal, 
 they continued firing grape with great effect, until the French, having 
 forced the neighbouring houses, opened a destructive fire from the win¬ 
 dows and roofs. Velarde was shortly killed by a musket-ball, and Daoiz 
 had his thigh broken, but continued giving command sitting, until three 
 other wounds put a period to his existence. By this time, (two o’clock,) 
 the firing had every where ceased; yet, although quiet was restored, the 
 slaughter did not end, —a military tribunal was established, at which General 
 Grouchy presided: all who were brought before it were sent away 
 to be shot, with but little inquiry whether they had taken any part in the 
 fray,—it was sufficient that they were found armed, or were suspected : 
 three groups, of forty each, were successively executed on the Prado, others 
 in the Puerta del Sol, Puerta del St. Vincente, and by the church of N. 
 Senora de la Soledad, the most holy in Madrid, whose bodies were not 
 suffered to be removed until the expiration of two days. The provinces 
 were soon acquainted with what was passing at Madrid, and, excepting 
 those parts where the French were numerous, rose, as if by one consent, 
 on their invaders. The reception given to Joseph on his arrival, in July, 
 was but little likely to encourage his partizans: the streets were nearly 
 deserted, the money scattered was left for Frenchmen to pick up, and the 
 theatres which were thrown open, for Frenchmen to fill; and, before the 
 close of the month, the successes of the Spaniards compelled him preci¬ 
 pitately to retreat. The aspect of affairs being unfavorable, Napoleon 
 withdrew a large portion of his forces from Germany and Italy, and, at 
 their head, advanced on Madrid, defeating all opposition : the inhabitants 
 thought only of defence eight days before they were at their gates; all their 
 preparations were then marked by haste and inexperience, the Retiro alone 
 was fortified with any care ; thirty pieces of cannon soon made a breach in 
 its walls, and, in less than an hour, the Observatory, China Manufactory, 
 Palace of Medina Coeli, &c. were in possession of the French, to whom 
 the city surrendered on the 4th of December. 
 
 In August, 1812, the British army were in Madrid, and in the November 
 following, the French had possession for the last time during the war. 
 
 On the 30th of June, 1822, Ferdinand, having prorogued the Cortes, was 
 hailed by the military on his return with cries of Long live pur absolute 
 monarch.’’ The populace loudly expressing their disapprobation, were fired 
 on by the soldiers, who retired into the palace with the royal family: for 
 five days the king remained a close prisoner, surrounded by drunken 
 military; on the sixth, several sallies were made; and, on the seventh, a 
 regular engagement of several hours took place in the streets, in which the 
 constitutionalists were victorious. 
 
 On the 23d of May, 1823, the Freuch, commanded by the Duke 
 d’Angouleme, again entered Madrid, where they remained until the end of 
 the following year. 
 
 The many vicissitudes which Madrid has experienced during the last 
 twenty years have caused great revolutions in the manners and the dress 
 of the inhabitants, but have at the same time been fatal to the increase or 
 improvement of the city; it contains, a§ at that period, 506 streets, 42 
 
r> 
 
 squares, 133 churches, convents, colleges, &c., 15 gates, and 17 public 
 fountains; the 15 parishes are divided into 8 districts, each district 
 into 8 wards, to each of which there is an alcalde : the population is nearly 
 200,000; the streets, many of which are long, broad, aud straight, are 
 well paved, with a very hard sharp pebble, and have narrow footways, 
 flagged on each side; the houses are well built of stone and brick, of two 
 or three stories in height; and, without displaying much magnificence or 
 luxury of architecture, have, from their being painted of various colours, 
 and ornamented with crosses, images, &c. a very agreeable appearance ; 
 the small grated windows of the lower apartments strongly recall the an¬ 
 cient tales of love and jealousy, for which Spain is proverbial. The en¬ 
 trances are not very seducing in their appearance: on one side are fre¬ 
 quently seen the hoots and shoes of some cobbler, or the wares of some 
 itinerant dealer, who establishes, during the day, his shop in the passage; 
 on the other, a mass of filth is accumulated from all the apartments; at 
 the end is the staircase, dark and uneven. Very few houses have porters, 
 the doors stand open, and the names of persons occupying the different 
 stories are painted on the side. In the most ancient quarter, towards 
 the Manzanares, the houses are principally of wood, and are profusely 
 ornamented with paintings of bull-fights, dancing, &c. in the old costume. 
 The houses of the rich and noble are only to be distinguished by their great 
 extent; many of them are elegantly and magnificently furnished, and 
 contain chefs-d’ceuvres of the fine arts; others make a splendid appearance 
 by having various articles of costly furniture painted on the walls. 
 
 Madrid enjoys a clear and almost cloudless sky, and a dry and 
 pure atmosphere, yet the wind, when it blows, is so keen and penetrating, 
 that it resists even the burning heat of summer: in this painful experience 
 has originated the common saying that the air of Madrid kills a man, 
 where it does not extinguish a candle: the heat, especially during the 
 dog-days, is extreme ; it is like breathing liquid fire; yet, even at this time, 
 the Spaniards have the art of keeping their houses cool: the rooms are 
 built lofty and long, with few windows and many doors, corresponding 
 with each other ; the floors, which are tiled, are kept constantly watered ; 
 the balconies have cloth coverings, and the windows are fitted with 
 Venetian blinds, curtains, or shutters; those who have large houses have 
 different apartments for the various seasons, many even for different hours 
 of the day. The greater the heat of the summer, the more intense the cold 
 of the following winter, against which they are but badly provided : the 
 long and lofty apartments, where not a door or window shuts close ; the 
 tiled floors, on which the esteras, or mats, retain but little warmth; and the 
 want of stoves or fire-places, for which the braseros are but bad substi¬ 
 tutes; all serve to increase the cold and humid north winds which con¬ 
 stantly blow at this season. 
 
 The various fountains in the city are supplied with water from the 
 neighbourhood of the Guadarrama, and from them carried to the 
 houses by the Gallagos, (or Gallecians,) who form a numerous guild, 
 and divide the city amongst themselves: it is a very laborious, but, at the 
 same time, a very profitable occupation, the quantity of water used being 
 prodigious. 
 
7 
 
 No, 1. Car cel de Corte. 
 
 This edifice, which was erected during the reign of Philip IV., is so handsome, 
 that even its grated windows scarcely suggest the idea of its being a state-prison. 
 It is only of one story, having a tower at eacli end a little more < ievated. The centre 
 is adorned with the arms of Spain, and several well-executed figures. A great 
 portion of this edifice was destroyed by fire in 1791, but lias been completely re¬ 
 paired. 
 
 No. 3. Iglesia de St. Isidro. 
 
 This church presents a noble front of three half columns of the Composite order, 
 and two pilasters, supporting a cornice, surmounted by a balustrade, with a tower 
 at each extremity. In the centre are three doors, above which is the statue of St. 
 Isidro. The church is large; the nave beautiful and well proportioned, adorned 
 with pilasters of the Composite order, between which are statues of saints. Above 
 the transept, is a magnificent dome. The chancel is decorated with pilasters and a 
 Corinthian entablature, with an arched roof. This church was built by Philip IV., 
 and is said to have cost four millions of ducats. It contains several fine paintings, 
 as do most of the churches in Madrid; but neither these, the relics, nor the plate, 
 are so numerous as before the arrival of the French. When the convent of the 
 Jesuits, to which this church was attached, was suppressed by Charles III., a chap¬ 
 ter of canons was established, who professed the doctrines of the Jansenists, and the 
 convent was converted into one of the best-regulated academies in Madrid, having 
 sixteen professors, who taught in the various branches. On the return of Ferdinand, 
 the Jesuits were re-established, and installed with great solemnity in this church. 
 On taking possession of the Academy, they suppressed the professorships of Physic 
 and Philosophy, as inconsistent with Catholic doctrines. Such professorships as 
 tended to diffuse information and liberal taste were also dispensed with ; not any of 
 the Jpsuits, who came from Italy, being able to superintend these branches of 
 education. 
 
 No. 5. Iglesia de Nueslra Sehora de Gracia, and Flazuela de la Cebeda. 
 
 The Place of Cebeda is an irregular open space, surrounded by ill-built houses. 
 It is the principal market-place, and is attended by an immense number of persons 
 from the provinces, diversely clothed: Castilians with long cloaks, which they wear 
 with a Roman dignity; drovers from La Mancha, clad in keltsof hide, and carrying 
 long goads; Andalusians wearing a short brown vest, chequered with blue and red, 
 and their hair bound in long silken fillets, &c. Long strings of mules, laden with 
 skins of wine and oil; droves of asses, led by a single man, who talks to them inces¬ 
 santly ; carriages, drawn by eight or ten mules, ornamented with bells, and driven 
 witli surprising address by one man, without reins, by bis voice only, using the 
 wildest cries; the vociferations of the muleteers, the tinkling of bells, and the noisy 
 altercations of buyers and sellers, form altogether one of the most busy abd animated 
 scenes to be met with in Madrid. The public executions (which, from the severity 
 of the laws, are very frequent,) also take place in this square. After passing the 
 night in prayer, the criminal is brought to the place of execution on the back of an 
 ass, (the first animal of that kind which appears at the Gate of Toledo being pressed 
 for that purpose,) accompanied by the holy brothers, whose office it is to attend on 
 these occasions, bearing a crucifix and tapers of green wax. In the evening, the 
 procession returns to remove the body, which they convey, attended by a great 
 number of torches, to the neighbouring church, where prayers are said over it until 
 the interment. The expences are defrayed by alms collected at an early hour by 
 persons in black vestments, who ring a bell through ihe streets. 
 
 No. 9. Ayuhtamiento y Carctl de Villa. 
 
 The Town-house and Prison is a large rectangular building, having towers at two 
 of its angles. The principal court is adorned with pilasters, and the grand staircase 
 is very handsome. The Chapel, which is extremely rich in carvings and figures, con¬ 
 tains some good paintings and a splendid tabernacle of silver, in which the sacrament 
 is carried in holy processions. One of the towers is said to have been the prison of 
 Francis I. until his removal to the royal palace. 
 
 No. 10. Armeria del Palacio. 
 
 The Royal Armoury is considerable in its extent, but is remarkable for simplicity 
 and exemption from ornament. It contains a most magnificent and interesting col¬ 
 lection of armour: amongst other suits, that worn by Isabella during the siege of 
 Grenada; that of Chico, the last Moorish monarch ; that worn by Charles Y. in his 
 expedition against Tunis ; and the coat of mail received by Philip from his grand- 
 
8 
 
 father Louis XIV, The swords of Pelargis, the Cid, Bernard del Carpio, Rolando, 
 the Duke of Weimar, and the celebrated Garcias of Paredes. The sword of Francis 
 I», which had lain here since the victory obtained over him by Pescara in 1525, was, 
 at the instance of Murat, presented to the Emperor Napoleon : on the 31st ofMarcb, 
 1808, it was conveyed in a carriage and six, with numerous attendants and guards, 
 to Murat’s quarters; the sword itself was carried in a silver basin, covered with a 
 silken cloth, laced and fringed with gold. The Armeria also contains a fine collection 
 of shields, small arms, aud implements of war from Mexico, Peru, &c. 
 
 No. 11 . Convento de Franciscas de Constantinople. 
 
 An edifice much more remarkable for its size and solidity, than for its elegance. 
 The Church, in the form of a rotunda, ornamented with pilasters, is very striking. 
 
 No. 12 . Iglesia San Salvador y San Nicolas . 
 
 This church is remarkable for an altar of the most admirable architecture: it con¬ 
 sists of four columns of green marble, of the Composite order, between which is a 
 beautiful bas-relief, representing St. Frauds floating on clouds sustained by angels. 
 
 No. 13. Plaza Mayor. 
 
 The great square of Madrid is 373 feet by 287; the houses are high, and well built. 
 The square is surrounded by a piazza, on pillars of freestone. It is the centre of 
 retail trade, and one of the most frequented parts of the city. The vendors of 
 Bulces, or sweetmeats and dried fruits, establish themselves against the columns 
 of the piazza. Towards Christmas, the whole square becomes one vast magazine of 
 tambourines; it being customary for all persons to provide themselves with one, 
 which they beat in a most extravagant manner, in the streets, houses, and even 
 churches, on the eve of that festival. Public rejoicings were formerly celebrated in 
 this square, by f6tes, illuminations, processions, bull-fights, &c., which were viewed 
 by the royal family from the Casa Real de la Panaderia. The Auto de F6es were 
 also celebrated in this square: the last, which took place in presence of the royal 
 family, was in honour of the marriage of Charles II. with a Princess of the Bourbon 
 race, on the 30th of June, 1680. The highest nobility of Spain assisted as familiars 
 of the Inquisition : twenty Grandees of the first class, and forty Counts and Mar- 
 quisses, “ immortalised themselves on this occasion.” The ceremonies commenced 
 as early as three o’clock in the morning, and continued during the whole day and fol¬ 
 lowing night. The number of victims was 120; of whom, twenty-one were burned 
 alive; thirty-four burned in effigy; eleven penitents who abjured the Jewish faith, 
 and fifty-four reconciled Israelites: nearly one-third of the number who were burned, 
 flogged, and degraded, were females. 
 
 No. 14. Rio de Manzanares. 
 
 This river, which in summer is a stream of but small importance, at times nearly 
 dry, is in winter, when swoln by the torrents from the Guadarrama, of magnificent 
 breadth. It forms a junction with the Henarez about eight miles below the city, 
 and with it falls into the Tagus. It is crossed by two noble bridges: that of Segovia, 
 near the palace, built in 1584, after the design of the famous John de Herrara, of nine 
 arches, 695 feet in length, and thirty-two broad ; and that of Toledo, at the end of 
 the Calle de Toledo, built in 1718, 385 feet in length, by thirty-six broad. The ad¬ 
 vantage of supplying the capital with the produce of the provinces by w'ater, long 
 since suggested the expediency of rendering the Manzanares the channel of commu¬ 
 nication: in the reign of John II. the work was first proposed, and was commenced 
 by Philip II. but at his death suspended; Charles II. resumed the work, and his 
 successor completed it. A canal was formed from the bridge of Toledo to the 
 Xarama, a distance of four leagues; seven sluices and four mills were erected, and 
 the navigation opened in great form; when the work was suddenly abandoned, and 
 has never since been resumed. 
 
 No. 1 7. Palacio Nueva . 
 
 The present palace (the ancient one having been destroyed by fire in 1734,) was 
 built in the reigns of Philip V. and Ferdinand VI. by Sig. Sacchetti, an Italian. It 
 forms a square of four equal sides, upwards of four hundred feet in breadth and 
 eighty-six in height to the cornice; to which a wing has been added by Charles III. 
 There are projecting pavilions at the angles, and one in the centre, in which is the 
 Chapel. On the balustrade was formerly a series of statues of the Kings of Spain, 
 from Atholpiio to Ferdinand VI. The architecture nearly approaches the Doric, 
 but, strictly speaking, is not of any order. The principal front has five entrances ; 
 that to the north, one; the others, not any. The court in the centre, which is about 
 120 feet each way, is surrounded by a large and noble piazza, over which is a gallery, 
 
9 
 
 embellished with Ionic columns. The whole building is of the most solid character: 
 the foundations are immense; the walls of extraordinary thickness ; and the apart¬ 
 ments are all vaulted. The principal entrance leads to a spacious vestibule, and 
 from thence, under a large piazza, to a magnificent staircase ; on the first landing of 
 which are two immense lions of white marble. On Bonaparte entering this palace, 
 in 1808, he placed his hand on one of the lions, and stood to admire the majestic ap¬ 
 pearance of the place, exclaiming, ‘‘Voila I’Espagne je l’ai retrouv6e dans les palais 
 des ses rois! Aliens, mon frere, vous serez mieux loge que moi.” This staircase 
 leads to the hall, where the royal guards are in constant attendance, and from thence 
 to the state apartments, where every species of grandeur and luxury are profusely 
 lavished: the finest marbles are employed, with great taste, in the cornices and 
 socles; the ceilings are painted in allegorical subjects, by Giacuinto, Mengs, Tiepolo, 
 Bayens, Langlois, Corrado, De Castro, and the Velasquez; and the walls covered 
 with a splendid collection of paintiDgs bv the first masters, formed, at an immense 
 expence, during the reigns of the four Philips. The chamber of audience, or “El 
 Salon de los Reynos,” is of great extent; the ceiling, by Tiepolo, represents the 
 Triumph of Spain, in which is introduced the various costumes of the Spanish mo¬ 
 narchy, and its dependencies in South America. The walls are hung with crimson 
 velvet, decorated with twelve extraordinary large glasses from St. Idelfonso, and 
 many fine paintings; and on twelve rich marble tables, and in other parts, are ar¬ 
 ranged statues, busts, vases, &c. The Chapel, which is in the form of a Maltese 
 cross, is ornamented with columns of black and white marble; all the architectural 
 parts above the cornice are covered with a profusion of carving, gilding, and statues. 
 The chancel and chapels contain paiutings. 
 
 No. 18 . El Escurial. 
 
 About seven leagues from Madrid, midway on the ascent of the Guadarrama 
 mountains, and a little above the village of the same name, stands this most stupend¬ 
 ous and magnificent building, which is both a palace and a monastery of Jeronomites. 
 It was commenced in 1557, by Philip II., in consequence of a promise made to his 
 father Charles V. that he would raise a monument to the Empress Isabella, and a vow 
 made on the day of the battle of St. Quentin; which battle having been fought on St. 
 Lawrence’s Day, the monastery is dedicated to that saint; and, in illustration of the 
 manner of his death, gridirons of every size and shape are to be seen, of stone, iron, 
 and wood, in the courts, galleries, and windows: even the building itself is in the 
 form of that instrument,—the several courts forming the bars, the towers the feet, 
 and the royal apartments the handle. The architect was J. B. Munegro, of Toledo, 
 and, after his death, J. H. Burtamento, his pupil. It is built of a grey stone resem¬ 
 bling granite, f;om the neighbouring quarries, in the Doric order. The principal 
 front, towards the west, is 637 feet in breadth, and fifty-one in height to the cornice, 
 each end being flanked by a tower 180 feet in height. In the centre, under a portico 
 of massive Doric columns, are two doors of noble dimensions, leading to a square 
 court, at the end of which is the Church. These doors are never thrown open, even 
 to the princes of the blood, excepting on two occasions—the first visit after their 
 birth, and when their remains are carried to the royal vault. On this side there are 
 thirty-five windows in breadth; on the outside the building there are lllOwindows; 
 the whole number is said to be 4000, and 8000 doors. The east front is of the same 
 dimensions as the west; the north and south measure 494 feet. The great cloister is 
 a double piazza, one over the other, ninety-three feet in length on each of the four 
 sides; the lower of the Doric, the upper of the Ionic order: both are filled with 
 paintings. In the centre is a small octagonal temple, fifty-two feet high, the interior 
 of which is jasper. The royal apartments are not distinguished by any particular 
 magnificence. The principal gallery, or Battle Hall, is painted in fresco by Granello 
 and Fabricius, and represents the battles of Higuerela and St. Quentin, and two 
 maritime pieces. The Hall of the Infanta is filled with the finest productions of the 
 best masters, as is also almost every apartment in the building. The ascent to the 
 church is by a staircase, 156 feet in breadth, leading to a piazza with a tower at 
 each extremity : the interior is in the form of a Greek cross, 313 feet by 198, with a 
 lofty dome in imitation of St. Peter’s; it contains forty-eight altars, enriched by 
 paintings. The chancel contains two mausoleums, in gilt bronze, by Pompey Leoni: 
 one presents statues of Charles V., his consort, the Empress Mary, and the Queens 
 of France and Hungary; the other, the statues of Philip II. and his three consorts. 
 The grand altar is enriched w ith many paintings and statues. The sacristy contains 
 paintings, and is the depository of much wealth, in relics, shrines, &c. Beneath the 
 church is the Pantheon, or royal vaults, remarkable for their grandeur, elegance, and 
 the costly materials of which they are composed. The first division contains the 
 
10 
 
 remains of forty-three Infantas and Infantos ; the second, which is thirty-one feet in 
 diameter, and thirty-two in height, is of an octagonal form, and contains twenty-four 
 tombs, in fifteen of which repose as many Kings of Spain. The Monastery has a 
 very extensive and valuable library, including several thousand ancient manuscripts 
 in Greek, Hebrew, &c. to which free access is allowed. 
 
 No. 21. The Hall of the, Cortes , 
 
 Formerly a church, and fitted up for the reception of the Cortes, on their removal 
 from Cadiz in 1814. The front is surmounted by a cross, at the base of which was a 
 group, consisting of a figure of Hope, supported by Christianity, pointing to Spain, 
 (represented by a female figure,) at whose feet lay a torch; beneath was a lion, 
 grappling a globe; in the centre of the facade, on a marble slab, in gilt letters, was 
 “ The power of enacting Laws is vested in the Cortes, with the King a niche on 
 each side contained statues of Patriotism and Liberty. The hall is 150 feet long by 
 sixty in breadth, oval, with spacious galleries; and was ornamented with many 
 statues, bas-reliefs,-and slabs, containing names celebrated in the cause of Freedom. 
 After a he flight of the Cortes with the King in 1823, the populace destroyed the 
 statues, defaced the inscriptions, and burned every thing that was combustible. 
 
 In the adjacent building, to the left, is the Royal Library, founded in 1712, and 
 augmented by various purchases, including the library of Cardinal Arquinto, brought 
 from Rome. It now contains about 180,000 printed books and 2000 manuscripts, 
 and a fine collection of medals and coins, including the Abb6 Rothelin’s, from 
 Orleans, and the Samaritan coins discovered by Bayer and Tychen. 
 
 No. 22 . Iglesia de San Martin, 
 
 This church contains a tabernacle of silver, above 1100 ounces in weight, most 
 admirably chased, and ornamented with various representations of Scripture history, 
 and a statue of St. Martin on horseback. 
 
 No. 24. Quartel de Guardias de Corps. 
 
 The Quarters of the Life-Guards is one of the finest buildings in Madrid. The 
 principal front, which faces the west, and has a tower at each end, is much disfigured 
 by injudicious ornament. The intetior, which consists of three large courts, contains 
 stabling for above 600 horses, and accommodation for 640 men, each having a separate 
 apartment. 
 
 No. 27* Campo santo de Arriba. 
 
 The Cemeteries of Madrid are ail bey ond the gates, and are ornamented at their 
 entrance with a large cross of wood. The present consists of four large paved courts, 
 each stone having a number and an iron ring, by which it may he elevated for the 
 purpose of depositing a member of the family to which it belongs. In one of |he 
 courts is a large deep pit tor the poor. The walls, winch are high and thick, have 
 niches left in them, one above another, where the remains of those who pay for such 
 a place are deposited ; the opening being then bricked up, and an inscription placed 
 thereon. 
 
 No. 23. Convento Sale&as Reales , 
 
 Erected by Ferdinand VI. and Queen Barbara. The front of the Church presents 
 pilasters of the Composite order, with many decorations in bas-relief: it is approach¬ 
 ed by a court with a piazza. The interior is adorned with Ccrinthian pilasters, and 
 the dome painted inf resco. The principal altar is formed of six columns of green 
 Grenada marble, each a single block, fourteen feet seven inches in height, with 
 Corinthian capitals of bronze, surmounted by an attic, presenting a medallion of St. 
 Francis Sales, between two allegorical figures of Faith and Charity. In the chancel 
 is the fine monument of Ferdinand, and in the choir that of Barbara. This church 
 lias been the subject of unqualified censure and of unlimited praise: by some it has 
 been esteemed a model of perfection, whilst the ridicule of others gave rise to the po¬ 
 pular quibble of “ Barbara reyno, Barbara obra, Barbara gasto;”—a barbarous 
 queen, a barbarous work, a barbarous taste. 
 
 No. 34. La Aduana. 
 
 The Custom-House, in the street of Alcala, was erected in 1769 : the height of the 
 front greatly exceeds the breadth ; the lowest compartment has three large and two 
 small entrances: the three large support balconies, with stone balustrades, raised on 
 modillions, terminated by heads of satyrs. Above are four rows of windows, sur¬ 
 mounted by attics : over the c entral window is suspended the royal arms, supported 
 by figures of Fame in white marble. 
 
 In the adjacent large building are the Royal Academies of Fine Arts and Natural 
 History. The former contains a fine library and a good collection of paintings and 
 
11 
 
 antiques; and the museum of the latter, which was formed by Charles III., is en¬ 
 riched with curious productions from each quarter of the globe, particularly from 
 South America. 
 
 No. 35. Puerta del Sol. 
 
 The Puerta del Sol was the site of one of the ancient gates of the city : it is now a 
 large open space, formed by the junction of five principal streets, with a handsome 
 marble fountain in the centre. In this square all the idlers in Madrid lounge away 
 their mornings, reading the papers, and discussing the news of the day. The Royal 
 Printing-Office is adjacent, as are also the shops of the principal booksellers. The 
 blind, from universal custom, are the only persons who cry the newspapers. 
 
 The Post-Office, a handsome square structure, stands on one side of this place. 
 
 No. 40. Plaza de los Toros . 
 
 At the head of the national amusements of Spain stands the Bull-fight, which may be 
 said to belong almost exclusively to that nation. The Spaniards have for them an 
 unbounded attachment; persons of all ranks and ages alike flock to see them : a bull¬ 
 fight, cruel and disgusting as it is, is an irresistable attraction even to the softer sex, 
 old and young, of the most delicate nerves. They generally take place during the 
 summer and autumn. The arena of the amphitheatre, which is very extensive, is sur¬ 
 rounded by a strong fence, about five feet in height, in which are four gates,—one 
 for tire entrance of the bulls, another for their egress; one for the performers, and 
 one for the removal of the dead bulls and horses. The first gallery is five feet from 
 the boundary, exposed to the open air, and is filled by the lower classes; the second, 
 which is higher, is defended from the sqn and rain by a tier of boxes. The exhibition 
 is opened by a procession of guards, alguazils, piccadores, cholus, &c. to the sound 
 of music. When the promenade is over, one of the alguazils, with great form, de¬ 
 mands from the governor, whose duty it is to be present, the key of the bull’s house, 
 which, having obtained, he carries to the gate-keeper. The circus being then cleared 
 of all but the Piccadores and Cholus, a bull is admitted. The piccadores are always 
 mounted ; they wear rich laced waistcoats, light-coloured hats with low crowns and 
 enormous brims, and breeches, with gaiters to the knee, of white leather, which are 
 padded to an enormous size, to protect them from the hull. The horses are but of 
 little value, ten or twelve beiug frequently killed in a day’s sport. The cholus are on 
 foot, and trust entirely to their activity: their dress is silk, richly ornamented, and 
 bieeches and stockings of while silk, and their hair in a net: some disguise them¬ 
 selves in a basket-work, resembling birds or animals. Their arms are banderillas, a 
 small dart ornamented with coloured paper, and they carry a large cloth of a bright 
 colour. When the bull refuses to attack the piccadore, he provokes him by pricking 
 him in the face with his lance, or throwing his huge hat at him : when the bull ad ¬ 
 vances furiously, he receives him on the point of his lance in the neck, and dexterously 
 wheels his horse to avoid his horns. Should the piccadore be overthrow n during the 
 attack, the cholus come to his assistance, and attract the bull by trailing or whisking 
 their cloth in his face, and throwing bandarillas at him : when he pursues them to the 
 boundary, they leap over, leaving their cloth to his fury. There have been instances 
 of the bull’s also following over the enclosure. When the bulls are cowardly or nearly 
 exhausted, the bandarillas are charged with fire-works, which, by their explosions, 
 render him almost mad. When the bull is so exhausted as to be unable to continue 
 the combat, the Matador comes forward with a red flag, which he holds before the 
 eyes of the bull, and terminates his sufferings by one thrust of his straight sword be¬ 
 tween the shoulders. The circus is then cleared, and the meat given to the hospitals. 
 —Some years back a negro, from Buenos Ayres, exhibited in an extraordinary manner 
 at these fights : having, by means of a lasso, caught and confined one of the fiercest 
 bulls, he fixed a saddle on his back, which having mounted, the bull was restored to 
 liberty ; when, in spite of all the animal’s efforts, he kept his seat, and from this un¬ 
 common steed attacked, in the manner of a piccadore, the other bulls. 
 
 No. 41. Puerta de Alcala. 
 
 The Gate of Alcala, which is one of the most modern, and by far the most beauti¬ 
 ful, in Madrid, was built to commemorate the arrival of Charles III. It consists of 
 five entrances. Externally, it is adorned with six Ionic columns, w ith capitals similar 
 to those designed by Michael Angelo for the Capitol at Rome ; internally, it has four 
 Ionic pilasters. In the centre is an attic, and above the arms of Spain, supported by 
 a figure of Fame, and bordered by triumphal trophies. The whole is of free-stone, 
 sixty feet four inches in height, exclusive of the arms. When the French invested 
 Madrid, their artillery defaced the columns, and destroyed many of the ornaments. 
 The view from this gate, down the Calle de Alcala, is very fine, and gives a most 
 favourable impression of the magnificence of the city. The street is very wide and 
 
12 
 
 gently declines: on the left are several grand palaces, sufficiently detached to shew 
 to advantage; amongst others, that of the Prince of Peace, (used by the French as a 
 store-house,) and that of the Duke de Medina Sidonia, (which was occupied by M. 
 Denio, commissary-general of the French army,) with the rich foliage of the elms in 
 the Gardens of the Retiro, and the trees of the Prada, which it crosses. Several 
 fountains, of inimitable execution, add a pleasing appearance, and spread a refreshing 
 coolness. 
 
 No. 42. Passeo del Prado. 
 
 This public walk of Madrid has long been celebrated in the novels and dramatic 
 compositions of Spain: its renown was, however, cheaply bought, for it was a place 
 of but small importance in itself. Its proximity to the palace, unevenness of ground, 
 and shady retreats, rendered it propitious for perilous encounters and midnight in¬ 
 trigues, and it has been the scene of many extraordinary events. Charles III. 
 levelled, planted, and embellished it with fountains, statues, &c.; the Count d’Aranda 
 had the management of the work. The soil presented the greatest obstacles to the 
 plantations: these were, however, overcome by artificial means, effected at a great 
 expence. Small canals, of a foot in breadth, are cut between, the trees, which are 
 every day supplied with water; round each tree is a circular fosse, in which the 
 water is retained until it mounts high enough to run to the next: thus, the trees, 
 which are mostly elms and chestnuts, being constantly supplied with moisture, pre¬ 
 serve their verdure. The Prado consists of a broad road, called the Salon, for carri¬ 
 ages, and an alley on each side for pedestrians: it commences at the Convent of 
 Atocha, and passes the end of the Calle de Alcala; is upwards of half a league in 
 length. The number of persons who frequent this place is immense. Ladies of the 
 higher class, w ho keep to their carriages, dress much in ihe French style ; those who 
 walk wear the basquina, or fringed petticoat of dark-coloured silk, and the mantilla, 
 or veil of black or white, adorned with embroidery or trimming: these veils are at¬ 
 tached to the head by a pad fastened by a comb, and, being accustomed to them from 
 their earliest infancy, the Spanish ladies wear them w'itli a grace truly fascinating. 
 
 No. 43. Buen Retiro. 
 
 Erected by Philip IV. at the solicitation of the Count Duke d’Olivarez, was the 
 favourite residence of the Kings of Spain of the Austrian dynasty. Philip V. con¬ 
 ceived an extraordinary partiality for it, and made it his chief residence after the 
 destruction of the palace of Madrid. It was the only residence of Ferdinand VI., 
 and Charles III. passed a great part of his time in it. The palace was the depository 
 of works of first-rate artists, and w'as surrounded by large and beautiful gardens, 
 containing groves, fish-ponds, temples, grottoes, statues, &c. The palace, command¬ 
 ing a part of Madrid, was strongly fortified, and was used as a prison by the French; 
 during which period the gardens w^ere made a desert, and the fountains, statues, &c. 
 broken and destroyed. A splendid statue of Philip II. escaped this almost general 
 ruin. This statue was executed by Sig. Tacca, of Florence, from a picture by 
 Velasquez: the most eminent artists of Florence agreed that the wmrk was impossi¬ 
 ble, but Tacca, assisted by Galileo, succeeded, and shortly after died of grief, from 
 the treatment he received from the Grand Duke’s minister concerning it, and it was 
 put up by his son Ferdinand. The execution is remarkably fine, particularly the 
 horse, who is represented in the act of galloping; consequently, the whole weight 
 (18,000 lbs.) is sustained by the two hind legs. On Ferdinand’s return, he ordered 
 Ihe palace to be restored, in which little progress has been made: the gardens have 
 been cleared, the menagerie rebuilt, and some boat and pleasure houses erected on 
 the borders of the great Lake. 
 
 No. 52. Convento de Atocha , 
 
 A large convent of the Dominican order. On one side of the church is a chapel, 
 lighted night and day by above 100 lamps, in honour of a miraculous image of the 
 Virgin, here deposited. The King attends at least once in each week, generally on 
 the Sunday afternoon, to hear mass in this church in public. A rojal grant has been 
 made to the Prior of this convent for creating a certain number of Counts and Mar¬ 
 quises, which titles, being sold at a high price, have been a source of great profit to 
 the establishment. 
 
 No. 55. Jglesia de San Tomas. 
 
 When the convent to which this church belonged was suppressed, the municipal 
 government assigned the refectory, (the large building on the left of the church,) a 
 hall capable of holding 4000 persons, to the use of the Landaburians, a popular debat¬ 
 ing society, named after Lieut. Landabura, an officerof the Royal Guard, who w'as 
 shot, by his own men in the palace, for refusing to join in the mutiny of the 7th July. 
 
 J. and C. Adlard, Printers, Bartholomew Close. 
 
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