h* ^^//^^ 
 
 . /&if 
 
 o—j 
 
 ?/!>//<? - 
 
 'in^*- 
 
A PLEASURE TRIP 
 
 TO 
 
 INDIA 
 
 DURING THE VISIT OF H.R.H. THE PRINCE OE WALES. 
 
 AFTERWARDS TO CEYLON. 
 
 M. E. CORBET. 
 
 LONDON: 
 W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATERLOO PLAGE. 
 
 PUBLISHERS TO THE INDIA OFFICE. 
 
 1880. 
 
 (All rights reserved.) 
 
LONDON : 
 PRINI'TJ) BY W. H. AT.LEN 4NP CO, 13 WATERLOO PLACE. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Having been requested by numerous friends 
 to publish an account of our Pleasure Trip 
 to India and Ceylon, I have endeavoured to 
 arrange my diary (written at odd moments in 
 the hurry and fatigue of sight-seeing), and 
 to make extracts from it. 
 
 Andrew and I are old travellers, and we 
 feel sure that many useful hints may be taken 
 from this book by those who wish to see 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 much of such interesting countries in a short 
 space of time, thus spending a winter most 
 agreeably. 
 
 M. E. C. 
 
 November 1879. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A short Sketch of the Voyage to Bombay. — 
 
 Sights 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Nassick. — Jubbulpore. — Benares. — Dinapore . 18 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Calcutta. — Arrival of the Prince of Wales. — 
 Illuminations. — Garden Party at Sir Richard 
 Temple's. — Dinner, and Ball at Government 
 House. — Native Fete. — Investiture of the 
 Star of India 36 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Return to Dinapore. — Great Durbar at Bankipore. 
 — Procession of Elephants. — Agra. — Taj 
 Mahal by Moonlight. — Moti Musjid. — Fort. 
 — Palaces. — Jumna Musjid. — Journey to 
 Delhi 66 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Delhi. — Arrival of H.E.H. the Prince of Wales. 
 — Grand Military Procession. — Jama Musjid. 
 — Chandnee Chowk. — March-past of the 
 Army. — Ball in the old Palace. — Kootub 
 Minar. — Marriage Procession. — Work of 
 English Church Mission . . . .81 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Meean Meer. — Lahore.— Umritzur. — Sirdhana. — 
 
 Agra again ....... 96 
 
CONTENTS. VI 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Jeypore. — Arrival of H.R.H. the Prince of 
 Wales. — Pig- sticking. — Illuminations. — 
 Great Dinner at the Palace — Durbar. — 
 Nautches. — Luncheon at Ambair. — Moha- 
 rum. — Palace at Jeypore. — Tigers. — Bhurt- 
 pore. — Deeg. — Futtehpore Sikri . . . 120 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 A.gra. — Nynee Tal. — Lueknow. — Cawnpore. — 
 Benares. — Journey to Darjeeling. — Tea-Gar- 
 den. — Valley of the Teestah. — Return to Cal- 
 cutta ........ 145 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Calcutta. — Buddhist Religion. — Madras. — Neil- 
 gherries. — Trichinopoly. — Madura. — Great 
 Pagodas. — Tuticorin ..... 185 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ceylon. — Colombo. — People. — Vegetation. — 
 Kandy. — Peredenia. — Newera Eliya. — 
 Lovely Scenery. — Point de Galle. — Voyage 
 to Marseilles. — Return home. . . . 211 
 
A PLEASURE TRIP 
 
 TO 
 
 INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A SHORT SKETCH OP THE VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 
 SIGHTS. 
 
 So many know the voyage to India that I need 
 say but little of that part of our trip. 
 
 We left the Victoria Docks, London, No- 
 vember 3rd, 1875. 
 
 Crossing the Bay of Biscay we had a frantic 
 toss for three days. Andrew was the only 
 passenger who dined with the captain one day 
 — the dinner consisting mostly of a sea-pie 
 hung overhead, at which they made a dash 
 when they could, holding their plates in their 
 
2 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 hands. I was quite well, but thought dis- 
 cretion the better part of valour. 
 
 This storm over, we had a good passage. 
 
 At Port Said we found the small public 
 garden gay with magnificent pointsettias, gera- 
 niums, &c. We spent some hours on shore 
 while coal was taken on board. 
 
 It was with difficulty that our long steamer, 
 the " Tartar," was steered through the Suez 
 Canal. We passed in sight of Ismaila, looking 
 like an emerald in the desert. 
 
 One morning early, from the Red Sea, we 
 saw Mount Sinai — or the one close by it — in 
 the distance. 
 
 Some American missionaries were on board 
 with us. One of the children having been ill, 
 I asked her another day how she was ; the 
 answer being satisfactory, " I guess I am well." 
 Her brother made a touching compliment to 
 a gentleman, saying, " You're the nastiest 
 man on board, and my mama says so ! " 
 Pleasant for him ! 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 3 
 
 Long before we passed Aden the weather was 
 extremely hot ; the phosphorous in the sea at 
 night splendid — looking, from the bows, as if 
 we were steaming through a sea of greenish 
 gold ; the stars most brilliant — the planets 
 shining like small moons. The Southern Cross 
 is a beautiful constellation — though the stars 
 in the False Cross are larger. The flocks of 
 flying fish, skimming along the water like 
 coveys of tiny birds, delighted us. 
 
 The punkas in the saloon were an untold 
 comfort, and we were even driven to sleep on 
 deck some nights. 
 
 On board we had a pack of fox-hounds. I 
 found great interest in seeing after them and 
 the live-stock generally, often taking them 
 water and food. They suffered much from 
 the heat, poor things. 
 
 I was anxious to learn some Hindostanee, 
 and Captain Paterson very kindly helped me 
 greatly ; he also told me a great deal about 
 India. 
 
 1 * 
 
4 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Speaking of the great cruelty of the natives, 
 he said, one day he thought that a bullock 
 drawing a cart seemed to be in pain. He 
 ordered the yoke to be removed and found a 
 great raw ; and still worse, the wretched 
 native had absolutely driven a long wooden 
 nail into the wound to keep the yoke in its 
 place ! So the harness was nailed on the poor 
 beast, who nevertheless toiled on patiently at 
 his work. The native was flogged by order 
 of Captain P . 
 
 One day in the Indian Ocean we had a 
 great storm of thunder and lightning, accom- 
 panied by torrents of rain — such rain as can 
 only be seen in the tropics. Our kind com- 
 mander, Captain Johnson, had the ducks and 
 geese let out of their pens. They thoroughly 
 enjoyed themselves, paddling about, and had 
 a good wash. This same day we saw a water- 
 spout in the distance, sucking up the sea and 
 dropping it down again. 
 
 On Saturday, December 4th, we arrived at 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 5 
 
 Bombay, truly thankful to be there in safety, 
 and also to have done with the monotony of 
 the steamer. We are both splendid sailors, 
 but dislike the inaction of sea-life. 
 
 There are many islands about Bombay, and 
 rocks, which make the entrance to the har- 
 bour difficult. A pilot came on board and 
 took us in successfully. In due course we 
 disembarked, and for the first time stepped 
 on Indian soil. 
 
 Andrew, Captain Paterson, and I, drove 
 through the very picturesque native town to the 
 Byculla Hotel, where we became established 
 comfortably, Andrew and I in two good rooms 
 divided by a partition half-way up. In one 
 corner of the bed-room, a third room — being 
 small — containing a bath, &c. ; everything 
 clean and well arranged. A gas-lamp burning 
 in each room, and a small light in a tumbler 
 of cocoa-nut oil. We paid only eight rupees 
 a day, bed and board, for Andrew and myself. 
 
 The buildings in the new part of Bombay 
 
A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 called the Port are very handsome, in Gothic 
 style. 
 
 The moon shone as we drove through the 
 Bendi bazaar to Byculla ; the houses very 
 picturesque with lattice windows, the natives 
 in the most brilliant and varied colours. 
 
 Our dinner was excellent, including a deli- 
 cious prawn curry, and ending with coffee; 
 many native men called " boys " waiting, 
 dressed in white calico, with naked feet. They 
 had very dark skins, and wore white turbans 
 on their heads, punkas going during dinner. 
 
 Next morning we were awakened by our 
 housemaid — viz. a man very nearly black — 
 bringing us two cups of tea, with deliciously 
 thin flour-and- water biscuits. He was dressed 
 in white calico, had naked feet, and wore a 
 white skull-cap. I told him to send the 
 dhobie (washerman), who soon arrived, and 
 
 1 practised some Hindostanee on him. 
 
 We stayed four nights at Bombay — the 
 weather extremely hot all the time, night and 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 
 
 day; the eating good and abundant. After 
 the chota hazaree (little breakfast) already 
 named, we had a regular dejeuner a la four- 
 chette, a tiffin, and dinner at 7.30. This, we 
 found, was the usual amount of meals in all 
 parts of India. 
 
 A juggler performed tricks very cleverly at 
 the hotel door. He had snakes and cobra 
 capellas with him. He played to them on a 
 pipe. A mongo, a curious animal that eats 
 snakes, was also of the party. 
 
 A funeral passed under our windows (for 
 we are on the second story). The dead body 
 was carried on a stretcher, the black head 
 exposed, the body entirely covered by flowers 
 laid all over it. Many natives accompanied it 
 on foot. 
 
 The weather being far too hot to allow even 
 us to walk, we hired a carriage for the day 
 (five rupees). 
 
 We went to divine service at the fine cathe- 
 dral Sunday morning and evening. Such a 
 
8 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 true happiness to be in a church again ! The 
 service was choral, a good choir, a fine mellow- 
 toned organ admirably played. Punkas were 
 pulled by black men during the services, or 
 the heat would have been unendurable. The 
 chancel of the cathedral is extremely hand- 
 some. 
 
 There are fine trees near our hotel — the 
 banyan and peplum (a sacred tree). 
 
 The streets of Bombay present immense 
 variety ; the houses are high and picturesque, 
 many of them having elaborately carved 
 brackets painted red and green. The Bendi 
 bazaar has small open shops of all kinds. 
 Many cows stroll about, helping themselves to 
 what they choose. They are very fat, and, 
 being sacred, are allowed to do as tbey like. 
 Swarms of people fill the streets in the most 
 varied costumes, some women dressed entirely 
 in the brightest scarlet, others in blue or 
 white, the dress consisting of one long wide 
 scarf hung on most gracefully, one end passing 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 9 
 
 over the head, the remainder twisted round 
 the waist, part of it so arranged as to form 
 loose coverings for the legs; a large orna- 
 mented ring generally worn through the left 
 nostril, ornaments stuck in the top part of the 
 right ear, many bangles of glass or silver, 
 anklets, rings on their naked toes, the feet 
 and a good deal of the legs bare. The men 
 wear all kinds of head-dresses — close-fitting 
 caps, white turbans, large scarlet ones, some 
 decorated with gold. The Parsees wear stiff 
 high black caps. The flowing robes of some 
 castes are very graceful, white prevailing ; but 
 there are costumes of all colours — a perfect 
 kaleidoscope — most entertaining. 
 
 The generality of the poorest men wear 
 hardly anything ; many little boys nothing ; 
 others have a mere string tied round them of 
 no visible use. 
 
 We visited the Parsee Hospital for Sick 
 Animals — a curious though very sad sight. 
 There were quantities of cows — some well, 
 
10 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 others ill ; there were many blind, some ter- 
 ribly crippled ; one with a foot broken off, 
 another with part of her hind leg gone ; others 
 with broken legs, the pieces hanging on. They 
 found it very difficult to stand on three legs 
 each. Some were mere skeletons. Two lay 
 dying as we passed. The man who was show- 
 ing us over the hospital said of one of these, 
 " He not dead ; he die." 
 
 The poor beasts are not allowed to be killed, 
 that would be against the Hindoo religion. 
 So, however much they suffer, they must wait 
 till death comes naturally. A doctor is in 
 constant attendance on these animals, but he 
 must only administer medicine. No operation 
 is allowed to be performed on them ; if a leg 
 happens to be broken, the piece must hang, 
 the doctor not being permitted to amputate. 
 They seemed well cared for and had plenty of 
 good hay. 
 
 In another part of this hospital were a quan- 
 tity of dogs of all kinds and sizes : one very 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 11 
 
 large kennel full of healthy dogs, those in the 
 other in a sad state. The guardian said they 
 had "the itches," meaning mange, I suppose. 
 They looked wretched; some of them had 
 hardly any hair left. 
 
 In a pen we saw a cat and kittens, one of 
 the latter in its death-struggle. Again the 
 guardian said, " He not dead ; he die." 
 
 A pony with worn-away feet was standing 
 in water to make them grow again. In India 
 a horse in the stable is not only fastened by 
 the head, but also a rope is attached to each 
 hind-leg and fastened to posts, so he is quite 
 a prisoner. All worn-out and wounded animals 
 are sent to this hospital ; it is kept up by rich 
 Parsees and Hindoos. 
 
 We saw a blind monkey, and a bull blind 
 with cataract there. Also quantities of healthy 
 animals, fowls and pigeons, but none of them 
 are allowed to be killed. Even the eggs the 
 hens lay are buried, on account of the life in 
 them ! 
 
12 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 The doctor also went about with us ; he 
 showed us the surgery. 
 
 We drove up Malabar Hill ; there are lovely 
 views from it of Bombay and the sea, numbers 
 of charming villas and gardens, fine trees, 
 cocoa-nut palms with the fruit hanging on 
 them, and many trees whose names I know not. 
 
 We called on Judge Bailey with a letter 
 from a kind friend. We were asked into his 
 villa ; he came to us at once, and we sat in 
 the verandah, furnished with chairs, tables, 
 Indian rugs, matting, &c, looking into the 
 lovely garden, with a beautiful view of the sea 
 below, palms, and other trees. On each side 
 of the steps leading to the verandah there were 
 choice plants in pots — caladiums, &c. The 
 judge showed us his dining and drawing rooms 
 and invited us for dinner next day. We went, 
 and a most exquisite repast it was in every 
 way. Afterwards we walked in the garden, a 
 splendid moonlighting up the sea; the judge 
 most kind and hospitable. 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 13 
 
 Driving up Malabar Hill we passed the place 
 where the Hindoos burn their dead. A great 
 light of fire, and a curious smell, long before 
 we arrived near the place. 
 
 At the bank we got eleven rupees for each 
 sovereign, so on one hundred pounds I made 
 ten pounds extra. It is best to take sovereigns 
 or English bank-notes to India. Agents do 
 not give nearly such good exchange on letters 
 of credit. 
 
 Captain Johnson, of the " Tartar," kindly 
 took us in his steam launch to the Island of 
 Elephanta, to see the wonderful Rock Temple. 
 We were rather more than an hour steaming 
 there. A swell, and the sea washed over us 
 sometimes. 
 
 We landed at Elephanta by a curious pier 
 composed of large square blocks of stone, a 
 good space between each, so we had to stride 
 from one to another. A number of nearly 
 naked black men and boys came to meet us 
 with large live green beetles and birds' -nests 
 
14 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 like bags for sale. We did not encourage 
 them. I was truly sorry for the poor beetles ; 
 the largest ones were kept prisoners by a string 
 round their bodies. 
 
 Having reached the shore we ascended a 
 long staircase cut out of the solid rock, and 
 at the top arrived at the celebrated caves. 
 Some guards near, and bungalows. We paid 
 a small sum for admission into the enclosure, 
 then sat down on the hill and had luncheon. 
 From this position we had a lovely view of 
 Elephanta Island, with its cocoa-nut palms 
 and many tropical trees, the sea, and the 
 opposite shores of Salsette. 
 
 After tiffin we went into the wonderful 
 temple, hewn out of the solid rock. 
 
 The date is supposed to be between the 
 eighth and twelfth centuries. The rock re- 
 sembles porphyry; out of this the temple is 
 excavated. The entrance is flanked by two 
 enormous columns. The Great Temple is 
 about one hundred and thirty feet long and 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 15 
 
 the same in breadth. The interior is large, 
 and impressive with the long rows of pillars 
 closing in perspective in every direction. On 
 each side of the great temple is a smaller 
 chapel. Twenty-six columns originally sup- 
 ported the cave ; eighteen only remain. 
 
 The Linga Chapel is square, with four en- 
 trances. The Linga in the centre of this 
 excavation is intended to represent Shiva in 
 one of his characters, and is the special object 
 of worship. Round the outside of this chapel 
 are huge figures personating door-keepers. 
 They rest on dwarfs. 
 
 There are many large groups of carving on 
 the rock in the great temple ; the prin- 
 cipal one being the three-faced bust, nineteen 
 feet high, representing Shiva in his three-fold 
 character as Brahma the Creator, Yishnu the 
 Preserver, and Rudra the Destroyer. This is 
 called by the Hindoos a Trimurti. Brahma, in 
 the centre, holds a gourd ; on his left Vishnu 
 has a lotus ; on the right Eudra is smiling on 
 
16 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 a cobra capella, a round lump on his forehead 
 is his third eye : from this is to burst the 
 flame that will destroy the world. 
 
 To the right of the Trimurti is a sculpture 
 of Shiva, half male, half female, groups of 
 gods and figures round. The compartment 
 to the left of the Trimurti has gigantic figures 
 of Shiva and Parvati his wife, with dwarfs, 
 figures, and an elephant. Further on still to 
 the left is a very fine stone group, called "the 
 Marriage of Shiva and Parvati, admirably 
 executed, the expressions of the faces good, 
 and the attitudes so graceful ! In the corre- 
 sponding compartment to the right is " the 
 Birth of G-aneshah, Shiva's eldest son." Many 
 figures in these groups of sculpture — some 
 skeletons, others such as Shiva the Ascetic, &c. 
 
 All these chapels and figures carved out of 
 the solid rock are very wonderful. In one 
 respect the rock temples of Aboo Simbel in 
 Nubia are more curious, they having only nar- 
 row entrances like doors, while here the whole 
 
VOYAGE TO BOMBAY. 17 
 
 front of the temple is open. However, the 
 carving at Elephanta is very superior. 
 
 The view of Salsette by the setting sun was 
 most enchanting. We steamed away, but the 
 moon was up long before we reached Bombay. 
 
 The heat is very great — night as well as 
 day. 
 
 Andrew has had to pay high duty on his 
 gun and rifle entering India for the first time. 
 
 The buildings in the port of Bombay are 
 very handsome — the library, post-office, town 
 hall, &c, all in Gothic style, some very much 
 decorated. 
 
 Colonel Fuller has kindly helped us to en- 
 gage a servant to travel with us ; he is a 
 Suttar called Fakeera Roopa, speaks some 
 English, and is very dark, almost black. We 
 are to give him thirty rupees a month and a 
 black coat ; this is considered very high pay. 
 
18 A PLEASUEB TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 NASSICK. JUBBULPORE. BENARES. — DINAPORE. 
 
 Wednesday, December 8th. — We left Bombay 
 by a slow train at 7.45 this morning, on pur- 
 pose to see the Grhats by daylight. We passed 
 through some very pretty country — lovely trees 
 dotted about and in masses, villages of huts 
 built of bamboo and plaister, with most pictu- 
 resque people in great variety of colours. 
 
 The Grhats are very curiously shaped rocks, 
 ragged and jagged in form, — a natural column 
 on one rock, just as if it had been built there. 
 
NASSICK. 19 
 
 We in the train passed up a steep incline over 
 the Thull ghat — the view from the top of the 
 pass being grand. 
 
 At Nassick station we left the train, took a 
 "tonga" — an odd little carriage, something 
 like a tiny dog- cart with an awning over it — 
 drawn by two half-starved ponies, and were 
 driven into the town of ancient Nassick. It is 
 the most holy city in the west of India, situated 
 on the river Godaveri, about five miles from 
 the railway station. The ponies were yoked 
 4 together over the shoulders by a cross-bar at 
 the end of the pole, instead of being attached 
 by traces. I was glad to see there were good 
 solid pads under the yokes. 
 
 Nassick is said to have been the first seat of 
 the founder of Buddhism about one thousand 
 years before Christ. At certain seasons there 
 are great pilgrimages here. 
 
 The streets of Nassick are very narrow and 
 the inhabitants extremely picturesque. 
 
 When we arrived near the river we left the 
 
 2 * 
 
20 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 carriage, descended by steps, and walked some 
 distance by the G-odaveri to a bridge by which 
 we crossed to the other side, and went through 
 the suburb of Panchavati, where we saw the 
 principal temple dedicated to Rama. The 
 carving in stone is fine. We were admitted 
 into a great court having houses for the 
 priests and their wives. The temple stands 
 in the centre of this court, but we were not 
 allowed to go inside. 
 
 Afterwards we visited the exterior of another 
 temple, and went up on a terrace belonging to 
 it, from whence the view was most interesting 
 — the Godaveri with numberless temples on the 
 banks, also some built on rocks and islands in 
 the river ; a crowd of natives in the most 
 brilliant colours and in white, on a large flat 
 island and the shore, buying and selling grain, 
 sugar-cane, &c. ; oxen with their quaint carts, 
 and donkeys interspersed ; — truly an Oriental 
 scene. 
 
 A hideous fackeer outside this temple, tall 
 
NASSIOK. 21 
 
 and black, almost naked, his hair standing on 
 end most wildly, his face and body powdered 
 with something blue which gave him a ghastly 
 appearance. We saw other religious fanatics 
 of the same kind as we continued our walk 
 along the north bank. 
 
 Not finding another bridge, we returned 
 through the fair. Many natives were bathing 
 in the river. 
 
 The view lovely this evening, with the dis- 
 tant mountains and fine sunset. 
 
 We looked into several open temples and 
 joshes. In one, the worshippers were marching 
 round an image. Many priests were sitting 
 outside the temples. The Linga with a stone 
 cow sitting down, very frequent as idols, also a 
 hideous figure painted vermillion — quantities 
 of these anywhere along the river, often merely 
 on an upright stone. 
 
 We wished to see the Buddhist caves at 
 Pandu Lena, five miles from Nassick. Alas ! 
 time failed us, or rather light. 
 
22 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 We had tea, with something to eat, at the 
 dak bungalow, and drove with fresh ponies 
 about five miles back to the station. There 
 we waited for the mail train, which picked us 
 up about midnight. We were fortunate in 
 having a comfortable first-class carriage to 
 ourselves, with washing- closet and plenty of 
 room to lie down and sleep. 
 
 Very hot both day and night. 
 
 After some twenty-one hours or more we 
 reached Jubbulpore, and drove to Kellner's 
 Hotel — a very large one — a bath-room next 
 to the bed-room, with a big wooden tub and 
 ghooras (earthen pots) full of water. 
 
 The gardens at the Great Indian Peninsular 
 Railway stations are lovely, full of beautiful 
 flowers in full bloom — pointsettias of enor- 
 mous size, bourganvillias, roses, &c. ; white 
 convolvoli covering the roofs of the stations 
 and also forming bowers to shelter the men 
 who attend to the points on the line. 
 
 Splendid trees and fine mountains we saw 
 
JUBBULPOBE. 23 
 
 on our journey to Jubbulpore; camels, an 
 elephant, and crowds of natives everywhere. 
 
 December 10th. — We set off before mid-day, 
 in a carriage with two gentlemen, to the cele- 
 brated white marble rocks, the distance called 
 eleven miles. We changed horses twice en 
 route, so had three pairs. Each took us a 
 short distance and waited our return. All 
 poor, thin beasts, but one pair too wretched — 
 quite small ponies. The natives are very hard 
 on animals. 
 
 We stopped en route at Mudden Mahal, got 
 out of the carriage, and walked up amongst 
 curious hills formed of great basaltic boulders 
 to a ruined temple built on the top of one im- 
 mense round black rock. Most curious it is, 
 specially as to position. A beautiful view from it 
 of the city of Jubbulpore, plain, and mountains. 
 
 Having returned to our carriage, we drove 
 through a picturesque village — idols here and 
 there, set up against a tree or a stone, gene- 
 rally painted vermillion ; also some of stone. 
 
24 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 After the village the road was long and 
 straight, with fine trees on each side. 
 
 When we changed horses, the fresh ones 
 were canght by the way-side, and the tired ones 
 turned out till our return. We saw a quantity 
 of wild monkeys walking in the fields, like 
 little mortals ; also many beautiful birds with 
 bright plumage. Occasionally we walked, to 
 save the poor horses. 
 
 Having arrived at the Marble Rocks bunga- 
 low, we ordered dinner; and while the polite 
 old black consamer was preparing it, we went 
 on the river in a boat as far as the Cascade. 
 The rocks are very high, they rise precipitously 
 from the water, are of picturesque form, and 
 in parts extremely white. One portion of the 
 river is very narrow. Here the rocks are 
 grander. Very fine indeed is this great mass 
 of white marble. 
 
 After dinner we went up the river again in 
 boats. The white marble rocks looked truly 
 ghost-like and mysterious by moonlight. 
 
JUBBTJLP0KE. 25 
 
 Between the two rows on the river we 
 walked about on shore, and were much in- 
 terested with some Hindoo temples having 
 good stone carving. We ascended many steps 
 to the ruins of one, considered an excellent 
 specimen of an old Hindoo temple. The large 
 square court has innumerable idols carved in 
 stone raised against the wall. The temple 
 in the centre of the court consists of an 
 outside entrance and a small room partly 
 divided, the inner portion containing the idol 
 of stone. I went in, being first, but the 
 guides would not allow the gentlemen to do 
 so without taking off their boots; to which 
 they objected. However, they had no great 
 loss. 
 
 "We drove back to the town of Jubbulpore, 
 and left at night for Benares. Though the 
 day had been hot, the night was extremely 
 cold. We had a first-class railway carriage to 
 ourselves, and lay down and slept as much as 
 we could. 
 
26 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 In the early morning we arrived at Allah- 
 abad, passing over a magnificent bridge at the 
 junction of the rivers Granges and Jumna. 
 Allahabad appears a pretty town, and there are 
 plenty of trees. We only remained an hour, 
 and proceeded to Benares via Mogul Serai, the 
 junction. We waited some little time at this 
 latter place, and I was amused watching a 
 native lady being smuggled into a second- 
 class railway carriage. She was brought into 
 the station in a palanquin covered tightly all 
 round, a woman walking by it. A man jumped 
 into the railway carriage, put up all the 
 shutters, then the palanquin was placed close 
 to the door, a great curtain was held over it, 
 so that it was impossible to see the lady pass 
 into the carriage ; the door was shut, and she 
 was boxed up closely. 
 
 The Rajah of Jhampoor travelled with us 
 from Mogul Serai to Benares. He said he had 
 been to Chunar to pray. He spoke English 
 fairly, and wanted to buy our Indian Brad- 
 
BENAEES. 27 
 
 shaw. As we could not spare it, I wrote down 
 the address for him. 
 
 We arrived at Benares about 3 p.m., drove 
 across the ricketty bridge of boats over the 
 Ganges and to the United Service Hotel in the 
 Cantonment, three miles from the native town. 
 Having taken rooms, we walked to a small 
 palace belonging to the Maharajah of Benares. 
 Nothing much to see there, excepting common 
 likenesses of our Queen and the Prince Con- 
 sort, and an oil painting representing the meet- 
 ing of the Duke of Edinburgh and the Maha- 
 rajah of Benares. 
 
 At night we drove into the town with a Ger- 
 man gentleman, and saw a Mahometan dancing 
 girl perform. She was very dark, with good 
 features, handsomely dressed in deep red, 
 almost maroon, spangled and embroidered in 
 gold, the material thin. The skirt was made 
 very full ; underneath this garment were ample 
 white trousers, so long that they fell over the 
 toes. She had gold ornaments on her head, 
 
28 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 ear-rings, many bracelets, and anklets from 
 the sound, though we could not see them. 
 There was not much movement in the dancing. 
 Now and then a working of one foot round the 
 other and a twist of the body that extended 
 the full skirt ; ever and anon the girl moved 
 backwards and forwards, placing her arms in 
 various positions, sometimes holding the ends 
 of the scarf (that enveloped the upper part of 
 her body) over her head. She sang a good 
 deal, in a monotonous tone, through her nose, 
 improvising I believe, as she sometimes ad- 
 dressed me, taking my hand and looking at 
 me. She did the same to Andrew and the 
 German, who stared at her through his spec- 
 tacles. She sang things that made the men 
 with her laugh often. Occasionally she burst 
 out into a succession of high trills, then re- 
 sumed the song. Four black men accompanied 
 her, two played curiously shaped stringed in- 
 struments with bows, holding them the con- 
 trary way to a violin ; a third had two small 
 
BENAEES. 29 
 
 kind of drums, on which he performed a sub- 
 dued tum-tum ; and the fourth had triangles. 
 All the time of the singing the girl chewed 
 betel-nut to keep her mouth moist. 
 
 On Sunday we went twice to the Cantonment 
 church. Soldiers in scarlet uniforms composed 
 the choir, and sang well. We drove to the 
 city of Benares ; it is considered most holy by 
 the Hindoos, who call it the " Lotus of the 
 World." They make pilgrimages to it from 
 all parts, believing that bathing in the Granges 
 will wash away all their sins. Crowds of 
 Brahmin priests live on the offerings of the 
 natives. We visited the Doorga Kund Tank 
 and Temple, and found quantities of monkeys 
 living there, perched on the roofs and scram- 
 bling all about. It was most amusing to 
 watch their antics. Some were carrying their 
 babies about. We bought grain, and they 
 soon nocked round us. Some were so tame 
 they took it out of our hands, filling both of 
 theirs at the same time. 
 
30 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Outside this curious monkey temple we saw 
 the place where a goat is daily sacrificed — 
 a sword near, that is used to cut off the 
 head of the victim. The priests take the 
 offering. 
 
 We drove on to the Observatory, near to 
 the city of Benares, and ascended to the roof, 
 from whence is a fine view of the town and 
 the river Granges. From the Man Mandil Ghat, 
 we embarked on the top of a quaint native 
 barge, and were rowed up and down the river 
 to see the ghats (landing-steps) and banks of 
 the river, which are rich in palaces and Hindoo 
 temples. 
 
 The houses rise in tiers to a considerable 
 height, the great mosque of Aurungzebe being 
 a striking object. 
 
 There were many people bathing in the 
 river, believing that they cleanse at the same 
 time both body and soul in the sacred stream. 
 Crowds of natives were also sitting on the 
 banks under huge umbrellas made of palm 
 
iz^zs. 31 
 
 leaves ; they looked Gfce great mushrooms 
 
 SZ'IQjZ. Up. 
 
 At the ourrizir-^li.: ~e =a~ btzie= "airlrig 
 to be cremated, men squatting near watching 
 
 We landed to visit the Mani Karizika Tank,. 
 a dip in which, the Hindoos believe, purifies 
 from all sin. The water looked very dirty, 
 and had a woeful smell, no doubt caused 
 
 CLlrtlT Z'J Tlf ttLSHtltieS It ItII"!.^ f.l~et5 
 
 f. is. tittr on it. Fritz, me it tiie ---- -,-_- = -f 
 rite it est Ii: = ::ue Atrnrz^f ~e itsi ? 
 capital view of the city and e uimlry, even to 
 
 rite larre rnins it tite Bndiiiir: estatlisitnetit 
 s.t ^itttatit. tiur rriles swst. ~^~e — iliiei 
 aiiiut rue hs.it: ~ sresiei sneers. :r ruriter 
 nssssres it rite itt-T :ity ; = s— rite Gulieri 
 Terurie. s, — luier it itttrti-steij iir^ei "ills. 
 rite ezrinr-iisiier-siiitei ti it ":eir_r iitstie :~r- 
 i :-.::. ~:ii tires it gtli. IVumiiets :r usur~e= 
 ~ere tSiiTTtiii :ttrZ*tnr= it trtitt anu timers t: 
 :_s ini. Als: tiiere ~ss sn iiii met tite ^s.re- 
 
32 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 way of the temple, to which they threw water 
 brought from the Granges. We went inside the 
 temple and saw the natives presenting their 
 gifts. Many cows were walking about in the 
 temple, quite at home. They are sacred animals, 
 and made much of. The priests look like any 
 other Hindoos. The people bow to the idols. 
 The latter are nearly covered with natural 
 flowers. In one temple we saw a priest mark- 
 ing the worshippers on their foreheads. Most 
 of the natives have paint on their foreheads 
 in stripes or other designs — red, yellow, or 
 white, to show their caste or religion. The 
 stone-carving in the temples is very fine, 
 specially in those called Bisheshwar and Bhai- 
 ronath. 
 
 Kalkup, the Well of Fate, is much revered, 
 as the natives believe they can read their des- 
 tinies in the water. It was very full of flowers 
 thrown in as offerings. 
 
 We crossed the Granges by a bridge of boats 
 to the railway station, from whence Benares 
 
D1NAP0EE. 33 
 
 looks beautiful, with its temples, minarets, and 
 tiers of houses. We proceeded by train to 
 Dinapore Station, some seven hours and a half. 
 There we were met by our kind friends, 
 Colonel and Mrs. Stewart, who took us in their 
 carriage to stay with them at their most com- 
 fortable bungalow in the Cantonment, three 
 miles distant. Yery good rooms in the house — 
 large dining-rooms, drawing-rooms, and hall. 
 We had bed-room and dressing-room, also two 
 bath-rooms. In the garden were lovely flowers in 
 full bloom — roses, tube-roses, pointsettias, &c. 
 
 We stayed ten days at Dinapore; went to 
 badminton parties late. The days were hot, 
 nights chilly. 
 
 We had some durzies (tailors) to arrange 
 our toilettes for the royal fetes at Calcutta. 
 It was amusing to watch them sewing in the 
 verandah, sitting on the ground. 
 
 One day we drove through the native town 
 to Bankipore, where great preparations were 
 going on for the reception of the Prince of 
 
 3 
 
34 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Wales. The natives drive in small wooden 
 carriages called eckas, on two wheels ; they 
 each have an awning. We saw many ; also 
 bullock-carts. There are very fine trees on 
 each side of the road from Dinapore to Ban- 
 kipore, banyans and others. A thick hedge 
 of sweet-scented mimosa bordered each side 
 of the road going to Dinapore Station, but 
 covered with dust, which is terrible here. The 
 country is flat and ugly. There are huge 
 barracks for the soldiers, houses for the offi- 
 cers, and last, though greatest, a church. 
 
 I am so sorry for the poor calves. They 
 accompany the cows when they come to be 
 milked ; each calf is allowed to suck a very 
 little to make the milk come ; it is then tied 
 tight to the cow's fore leg while she is milked 
 — she, poor beast, fancying that her calf is 
 feasting — a terrible case of tantalus for the 
 calf. 
 
 All the animals are half-starved. The 
 natives will drive them to death's door, and 
 
DINAP0RE. 35 
 
 ill-treat them in every way, but will not kill 
 them. 
 
 Europeans eat enormously in India — three 
 great dinners daily, besides chota hazaree 
 (early breakfast), afternoon and evening teas. 
 The ladies stay indoors till nearly dusk, then 
 go to a badminton party, and even have a 
 carriage out to visit a next-door neighbour or 
 a very near one. Colonel Stewart has a num- 
 ber of native servants — Fanny her English 
 maid. 
 
36 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CALCUTTA. AEEIVAL OF THE PEINCE OF WALES. 
 
 ILLUMINATIONS. GAEDEN PAETY AT SIE 
 
 EICHAED TEMPLE'S. — DINNEE, AND BALL AT 
 GOVEENMENT HOUSE. NATIVE FETE. — INVES- 
 TITURE OF THE STAE OF INDIA. 
 
 December 23rd. — "We arrived at Calcutta, 
 having travelled all night. Near the end of 
 our journey we had fine tropical vegetation 
 on each side — plantains, palms, and other trees 
 interspersed with native huts, villages, and 
 the black inhabitants squatting about; they 
 seldom stand, but sit on their calves, which 
 they wear quite thin. 
 
 At Spence's Hotel we found comfortable 
 
CALCUTTA. 37 
 
 rooms ready for us, some of our windows 
 looking on the grand entrance to Government 
 House. It afforded us much amusement 
 seeing the native grandees arrive to call on 
 the Viceroy (Lord Northbrook). A guard of 
 soldiers with their band were at the bottom 
 of the great flight of steps leading to the prin- 
 cipal door of Government House. The band 
 played on each arrival, and a salute was fired 
 according to the rank of each visitor. Crim- 
 son cloth was laid down the middle of the 
 steps ; on this the grandee walked, a gor- 
 geously embroidered umbrella of many colours 
 beins; held over his head. His numerous at- 
 tendants went up the side of the crimson cloth, 
 not on it. Each party came separately and 
 stayed a short time. Much pomp and cere- 
 mony were displayed. The Maharajah of 
 Jodhpore and his attendants wore long, full, 
 pink petticoats, that stood out a great deal; 
 they were otherwise very gorgeous. Their 
 equipages and escorts were truly picturesque. 
 
38 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 We drove with the Stewarts in their car- 
 riage. 
 
 The Cathedral is a fine building, and the 
 houses along Chowringhee Eoad are very 
 handsome. The Maidan is a large open space 
 like a park. We saw the horses and carriages 
 ready for the Prince of Wales — many Arabs, 
 four of them are to go to England for the 
 Princess. One strong black pony from the 
 north-west of India had a mane and tail that 
 nearly reached the ground. There were two 
 fine bay horses brought by the Prince from 
 England ; numerous handsome plain carriages, 
 close and open, from England ; two large f our- 
 gons for luggage ; nine white-faced postilions 
 in scarlet jackets embroidered with gold ; and 
 a whole party of black-faced coachmen in scar- 
 let and gold with Prince of Wales' Feathers 
 embroidered in silver on their breasts, a smaller 
 one on their turbans, which were white, with a 
 scarlet and gold band across them. 
 
 We drove on to the quarters of the 109th 
 
CALCUTTA. 39 
 
 Regiment ; they were encamped on the Maidan. 
 We heard their fine band play, then watched 
 men tearing about on ponies playing polo, till 
 it was so dark they could see no longer. 
 
 Government House is a large plain building, 
 receding in the centre ; it has a dome and a 
 portico besides the great entrance at the top 
 of the flight of broad steps. There is another 
 below, where ordinary mortals write their names 
 in the Viceroy's book. 
 
 The time for calling in India is from 12 to 2 
 o'clock. 
 
 The weather is much warmer here than at 
 Dinapore, though chilly at night. 
 
 Thursday, December 23rd. — To-day His Royal 
 Highness the Prince of Wales arrived at Cal- 
 cutta. The Stewarts, Andrew, and I drove to 
 a great building on Prinsep's ghat, where we 
 found the tickets we had received admitted us 
 to capital places for seeing — we were in one 
 of the wings of the building. In the centre 
 part, sitting on sofas or standing, were nume- 
 
40 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 rous great native princes, most splendidly- 
 dressed in satins and velvets embroidered in 
 gold, some in pearls. They each wore several 
 necklaces of diamonds, emeralds, amethysts, 
 and other precious stones. They had variously 
 coloured and differently shaped turbans. 
 Yellow, maize, black and gold, white, some 
 of them a blaze of jewels. The Maharajah of 
 Cashmere's turban was white and yellow with 
 jewels. His Highness of Rewah wore a splen- 
 did mauve velvet dress embroidered in gold, 
 the pattern being floral. On his head was a 
 high gold crown. His face was painted, he 
 being a leper. He wore gloves with diamonds 
 set on them. The Maharajah of Benares is a 
 nice-looking old man, with grey hair ; but the 
 Maharajah of Pattiala eclipsed all in richness 
 of toilette. He wore a light blue satin' dress, 
 necklaces of pearls and diamonds, a white 
 turban brilliant with diamonds and emeralds, 
 a fine diamond spray on one side that belonged 
 once to the Empress Eugenie. It was said 
 
CALCUTTA. 41 
 
 that his jewels alone were worth three hun- 
 dred thousand pounds. Besides the great 
 princes I have named were many others, blazing 
 with gems, on the reception platform awaiting 
 the arrival of His Royal Highness. A pontoon, 
 covered with scarlet cloth, led from the plat- 
 form to the river ; this was lined on each 
 side by native soldiers. There were immense 
 crowds of people everywhere, inside the re- 
 ception tent and outside. The vessels on the 
 Hooghly were gay with flags. Altogether the 
 scene was brilliant beyond description. 
 
 Tremendous firing of cannon at last told 
 us that the Prince of Wales was coming. 
 Lord Northbrook, Lord Napier of Magdala, 
 Sir Richard Temple, &c, walked down the 
 pontoon to meet him, and an address was 
 carried in a splendid casket. His Royal 
 Highness was dressed in a field-marshal's 
 uniform. He looked extremely well. With 
 him were the Duke of Sutherland, Sir Bartle 
 Prere, and other members of his suite. On 
 
42 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 arriving at the platform the Prince paused 
 a little ; the native grandees were presented to 
 him, then he left with many carriages and 
 escort for Government House. 
 
 We were much amused watching the Maha- 
 rajahs drive away. Most of them had four 
 horses, some driven by a coachman, others 
 having two postilions, and always a syce run- 
 ning by each horse in case of accidents. The 
 harness was very decorative : one set of horses 
 wore silver bracelets (bangles) that made a 
 great jingle as they trotted along. Each car- 
 riage was full, the Rajahs being attended by a 
 large suite in rich attire. The escorts were 
 curious, some of the men on horseback looked 
 so wild. Those of the Maharajah of Benares 
 had tiger-skins for saddle-cloths. 
 
 The Yiceroy's beautiful band played " outside 
 Government House to-night. 
 
 January 24th. — After paying visits in the 
 day, we drove out at night to see the illumina- 
 tions in honour of the Prince of Wales. First 
 
CALCU TTA. 43 
 
 we went to the United Service Club on Chow- 
 ringhee road. From the balcony we had an 
 excellent view of the illuminations all round 
 the Maidan, Government House, the Museum, 
 the High Court, Post Office, &c. Innumer- 
 able small glasses with a light in each were 
 placed thickly on the buildings following the 
 lines of architecture, the effect being beautiful. 
 There were festoons of many-coloured Chinese 
 lanterns on each side of the roads. Opposite 
 the Club was a grand temporary arch bril- 
 liant with illuminated devices. The Prince's 
 procession passed close under the Club in 
 many carriages with a guard of honour ; 
 then followed crowds of carriages containing 
 Indian grandees, Europeans, and poor Indians. 
 All kinds of people and the greatest variety of 
 equipages. Such a strange mixture. One 
 omnibus crammed inside and out with natives 
 was drawn by one poor horse who could hardly 
 crawl along at a foot's pace. Too cruel ! 
 Many ticker gharries were drawn by tiny 
 
44 A PLEASURE TBIP TO INDIA. 
 
 skeleton ponies. The two miles of buildings 
 bounding the Maidan (a large open space) on 
 the north and south were traced out in lines 
 of fire. The domes of Government and other 
 houses came out splendidly. At Monohur 
 Doss Tank a screen-work representing a temple 
 was illuminated, also the sides of the tank, the 
 reflection in the water being lovely. We passed 
 under several triumphal arches covered with 
 various lighted designs. The revolving illu- 
 minations were very pretty. 
 
 We continued our pilgrimage, following 
 slowly in the string of carriages many miles 
 through the town and native bazaars, all a 
 blaze of light. There were festoons of diffe- 
 rent-coloured lamps on each side of the road ; 
 transparencies representing Indian views ; por- 
 traits of our Queen, the Prince and Princess 
 of Wales; also stars, Prince of Wales' Feathers, 
 Royal Arms, &c. ; then flags and Chinese lan- 
 terns. The native bazaars were most original; 
 in one there were quaint paintings on each 
 
CALCUTTA. 45 
 
 side the narrow street of natives., animals, 
 tiger-shooting, nautch dancers, all kinds of 
 subjects. The streets were crowded with car- 
 riages and with natives squeezing along, the 
 roofs of the houses being covered with natives, 
 especially women, who added much to the gene- 
 ral effect in their bright-coloured garments. 
 Here and there a palm-tree came in with good 
 effect. 
 
 This illumination of Calcutta was the largest, 
 most complete and curious I have ever seen. 
 
 Calcutta, Christmas Day, 1875. — "We went 
 to the Cathedral this morning, where we much 
 enjoyed a grand choral service. The fine 
 organ was admirably played. The Bishop of 
 Calcutta (Millman) preached. The Prince of 
 Wales, with Lord Northbrook, Miss Baring, 
 and other great people, were present at the 
 service. 
 
 To-night we dined with Sir Richard Temple 
 (Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal) at his large 
 house called Belvedere. Lady Temple, being 
 
46 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 unwell, did not appear. When we arrived, 
 Captain Frith (an aide-de-camp) met us at 
 the bottom of the great staircase, took me up, 
 and introduced us. Sir Richard Temple took 
 me into dinner, and Count Seckindorf sat on 
 my left. There were twenty-eight ladies and 
 gentlemen at dinner. Sir Richard and I sat 
 in the middle of one side of the table. One 
 immense apartment constituted dining and 
 drawing room. Ladies and gentlemen left 
 the table together as they went to it. Sir 
 Richard showed me the lovely views he had 
 taken of Darjeeling and the Himalayas ; also 
 Lady Temple's pretty boudoir. 
 
 After dinner some Indian Rajahs arrived, 
 with handsome diamonds in their turbans. 
 Several ladies played and sang, I for one. 
 Miss Temple performed admirably on the 
 piano. 
 
 It is the fashion in India for no one to leave 
 a party until the lady who goes in first to 
 dinner has done so. 
 
CALCUTTA. 47 
 
 "When we said good-night the party broke 
 up. 
 
 Hot day, with cold, thick fog at night. 
 
 December 27th. — The Stewarts and we went 
 to a great garden party at Belvedere, given 
 by Sir Richard and Lady Temple to the Prince 
 of Wales. They walked about the grounds, 
 His Royal Highness in the middle, his suite 
 and many people following. Many hundreds 
 present beautifully dressed, both Europeans 
 and natives. As for the latter, their jewels 
 and their velvet or satin dresses worked with 
 gold, were most gorgeous, and the effect of 
 the many bright colours moving about in the 
 gardens was brilliant in the extreme. A great 
 display there was of Rajahs and Maharajahs. 
 Puttiala was specially splendid, his dress being 
 embroidered with pearls. 
 
 One great point" 1 in the entertainment was 
 an interesting exhibition of the Assamese — a 
 wild tribe from the hills. The men wore 
 feathers arranged in savage style round their 
 
48 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 heads ; they carried barbed spears and shields 
 made of skin ; they looked wild and warlike ; 
 the feathers about their heads stuck out in all 
 directions. The women had a blue and red 
 cotton petticoat each, fastened tightly round ; 
 huge ear-rings hanging from the tops of their 
 ears, strings of beads round their necks, and 
 bangles. They were very small women with 
 dark skins. The men were taller and had 
 thick legs. There must have been fifty of 
 these people. They danced on the grass be- 
 fore the Prince ; he sat with Miss Baring and 
 Lady Temple, one on each side ; the remainder 
 of the guests formed into a great circle. The 
 Assamese performed different figures, all 
 moving like clockwork, their feet going a high 
 jog-trot, their arms pointing out one at a 
 time, sometimes both hands held high up. 
 After this show of the whole tribe together, 
 a dance was performed by four men and four 
 women placed as in a quadrille ; then four 
 Warriors gave a solo each, with shields, dancing, 
 
CALCUTTA. 49 
 
 jumping, and capering round most actively. 
 One depicted in pantomime the killing of a foe ; 
 another threw his lance in the air, catching it, 
 after several evolutions, in a wonderful way. 
 The music consisted of tum-tums, stringed in- 
 struments, and a fife. 
 
 When the Prince wearied of all this, he got 
 up and walked away — there was an end of it 
 — and we adjourned to one of the refreshment 
 tents. These were decorated with great flags 
 emblazoned with the Royal Arms. 
 
 We next strolled about the gardens to see 
 the illuminations. Most lovely they were. 
 Myriads of small earthen saucers with lights 
 in them were placed close together along each 
 side of the walks, on the ground, and round 
 the lake, reflecting in the water; these lines 
 of fire were very effective. Then there were 
 festoons of lamps, and a temple was a blaze 
 of light. The house was illuminated with 
 small glasses, some red, some yellow, in lines 
 following the architecture, a sight not to be 
 
 4 
 
50 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 forgotten. The brilliantly dressed company 
 walking about, added greatly to the scene. 
 
 The Prince of Wales dined with Sir Richard 
 and Lady Temple, and at night we met him 
 at a great ball given to him by the Viceroy 
 (Lord Northbrook) at Government House. 
 The Prince evidently enjoyed the dancing; he 
 valses admirably. The ball was crowded, 
 though the rooms are very large. Many half- 
 caste people present, but no natives. The 
 heat and dust were trying. An excellent 
 supper ; but the really delightful band was 
 to me the best part of the entertainment. 
 
 Yery hot day. 
 
 December 28th. — His Royal Highness had a 
 levee at Government House, which Andrew 
 and Colonel Stewart attended, and found a 
 very numerous assembly. 
 
 We wrote our names in the visiting- books 
 at Belvedere for Sir Richard and Lady 
 Temple. We have also done this at Govern- 
 ment House. 
 
CALCUTTA. 51 
 
 At night we went to a gorgeous entertain- 
 ment at Belgatchia Yilla, given to our Prince 
 by the principal natives of Calcutta. The 
 bazaars and sides of the road were brilliantly 
 illuminated the whole way there, some five 
 miles. Crowds of natives lined the streets 
 and squatted on the house-tops. A fine Jain 
 temple, lighted up, formed a striking object. 
 
 Arrived at Yilla Belgatchia we found the 
 whole place a blaze of light, the villa, gardens, 
 lake, and the large hall built for the entertain- 
 ment being illuminated. We went straight 
 into this building, and were fortunate in se- 
 curing front seats in the avenue of chairs near 
 the royal dais. The hall was lighted by quan- 
 tities of glass chandeliers ; the ceiling was 
 painted blue to represent the sky, and was 
 studded with stars. When we arrived the 
 hall was full of richly-dressed native men — 
 many who had contributed to the entertain- 
 ment. As Europeans arrived, I was really 
 shocked to see the natives turned out of their 
 
 4 * 
 
52 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 chairs and sent to the back to make room for 
 the new comers. And they did not give up 
 their places willingly. Our National Anthem, 
 played by natives, welcomed our Prince on his 
 arrival. He and the Viceregal party walked 
 up the avenue of people and seated themselves 
 on the dais — Lord Northbrook on the right of 
 the Prince, Miss Baring on his left, next her 
 Sir Richard Temple, the suite behind. His 
 Royal Highness wore his Field-Marshal's dress 
 and diamond orders, &c. 
 
 Then began native singing and music. It 
 was monotonous, mostly minor, the singing 
 nasal ; the musical instruments curious — very 
 little sound came even from the largest. 
 There were stringed instruments, large and 
 small, the usual tum-tum, &c, all played with 
 a great air. One man performed on two pipes 
 by pressing them against his throat outside, 
 one right, the other left ; another gave a solo 
 on a jew's-harp, and a third distinguished 
 himself by playing on steel castanets in the 
 
CALCUTTA. 53 
 
 shape of bars. He threw himself into atti- 
 tudes as he played, and was most energetic. 
 Also there was a trio on a stringed instrument 
 called setar. To conclude, a nautch took 
 place. A number of native dancing girls with 
 dark skins appeared, splendidly got up in flowing 
 dresses embroidered in gold, long full trousers 
 hanging even over the feet; anklets jingled 
 underneath when they moved. They wore 
 many trinkets, enormous ear-rings hanging 
 from the tops of their ears, head ornaments, 
 necklaces, bangles, &c. The dancing con- 
 sisted mostly in turning round, the dress flow- 
 ing, and gliding along with the arms up. 
 Sometimes two or three performed together. 
 
 I do not believe that the nautch was over 
 when the Prince got up and the party went 
 into the villa for supper. "We followed in due 
 course, seeing the garden illuminations and 
 grand fire-works first. Everything was well 
 done, regardless of expense. One room in 
 the villa had a crimson velvet couch embroi- 
 
54 A PLEA.SU EE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 dered in gold, for the Prince to take rest upon. 
 There was supper in many rooms, — it was 
 very excellent in the Viceregal apartment, 
 where we feasted after that party had left. 
 
 The streets were as brightly illuminated as 
 ever for our return, though the crowds had 
 vanished. 
 
 It was 3 a.m. when we reached the hotel — 
 a long affair. 
 
 December 29th. — We saw the Prince's special 
 train, the one for the Great Indian Peninsular 
 Railway. The carriages were painted white, 
 decorated with the Royal Arms and Prince of 
 Wales' Feathers. Inside they were most com- 
 fortable — one formed a sitting-room furnished 
 with sofas having covers of green morocco. 
 There were movable tables, convenient lamps, 
 also shades to keep the sun off the windows, 
 and wire gauze to guard against dust. Next 
 to this carriage was a boudoir for the Prince ; 
 then his bed-room, which was furnished with 
 red damask, had a real bed in it and a sofa, 
 
CALCUTTA. 55 
 
 also a bath-room, with a large bath, and ad- 
 joining that the valet's room. For the suite 
 there were carriages with couches for four in 
 each, with several baths and shower-baths. 
 Truly little fatigue travelling in such comfort, 
 being positively a necessity to undress and go 
 properly to bed ! 
 
 We drove to the China bazaar, bought fans, 
 China silk, and a pine-apple dress. Walked in 
 the Eden Gardens, which are extremely well 
 laid out and planted with tropical trees and 
 plants. The marine band belonging to the 
 Prince's steamer was playing there admirably 
 well. 
 
 Andrew and I dined at Government House 
 by invitation of the Viceroy to meet His Royal 
 Highness the Prince of Wales. The Viceroy 
 (Lord Northbrook) was very kind ; he sat by 
 me and talked, said he was sorry he had not 
 been able to do more for us, his time being so 
 much taken up with the Prince. 
 
 There were a good many guests, amongst 
 
56 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 them Mr. and Mrs. Robinson of Madras, 
 General and Mrs. Lumsden — between thirty 
 and forty at dinner. His Royal Highness 
 took in Miss Baring, who curtsied when she 
 accepted his arm. Lord Suffield was my 
 cavalier, and I was fortunate in having the 
 Duke of Sutherland on the other side, so I 
 felt quite at home and had plenty of conver- 
 sation with both neighbours. The Prince and 
 Miss Baring sat in the middle of one side of 
 the table, the Viceroy and Mrs. Robinson 
 being their vis a vis. The band played out- 
 side during dinner, ending with a bit of our 
 National Anthem after the Prince had given 
 " the Queen," when we all stood. 
 
 Soon after ice the Prince rose ; that was the 
 signal for the ladies to leave, the gentlemen 
 remaining behind to smoke, but they only 
 stayed a short time. 
 
 In the evening there was a large reception 
 of Europeans and native chiefs, amongst them 
 the Maharajas of Rewah,^ Pattiala, and Rajah 
 
CALCUTTA. 57 
 
 of Benares, all gorgeously attired in bright 
 colours and jewels. I was introduced by Sir 
 Bartle Frere to several native grandees whose 
 names, alas ! I have forgotten. They spoke 
 some English. The Yiceroy presented me to 
 the Prince of Wales. We made the acquaint- 
 ance of General Probyn, General and Mrs. 
 Lumsden, and others. The Maharajah of 
 Rewah had his face painted. A professional 
 played the piano and sang. 
 
 December 30th. — Sir Henry Norman called 
 on us. Truly agreeable he is. 
 
 The Stewarts and we went down the river 
 Hooghly in a steam launch to the Botanical 
 Gardens, where we landed and walked. The 
 grounds are very extensive, the beds of bright- 
 coloured balsams very pretty. There are a 
 great variety of trees, and much fruit on the 
 cocoa-nut palms. The great sight is the enor- 
 mous banyan tree ; it has at least three 
 hundred stems, and is a thousand feet or more 
 round the outer branches. Some pretty 
 
58 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 creepers grow up it, one with a leaf like a 
 fern. 
 
 We crossed the river to the menagerie of 
 the King of Oude and strolled about look- 
 ing at the birds and animals. They are not 
 well cared for. I was very sorry for the mon- 
 keys in small dens. One old monkey nursing 
 her baby was too human — when the little 
 thing jtried to walk away the mother pre- 
 vented it by gently drawing it nearer to her. 
 
 Calcutta looks very well from the river 
 
 Andrew and I dined with the Commander- 
 in-Chief, Lord Napier, at the fort — a very 
 nice party of twenty-eight. Lord Napier was 
 extremely kind to us, he was most agreeable 
 and chatty. 
 
 General and Mrs. Lumsden are great ac- 
 quisitions to our stock of friends. 
 
 The weather is very hot. 
 
 January 1st, 1876. — Quite a red-letter day. 
 We were up early, and went with the Stewarts 
 to the great ceremony of the Investiture of 
 
CALCUTTA. 59 
 
 the Star of India. The chapter was held on 
 the Maidan, where an encampment had been 
 formed. There was a grand durbar tent for 
 the investiture, with an avenue of tents from 
 it for spectators and for the Knights Grand 
 Commanders to assemble in, a tent for each 
 with his followers. The Shemiana was filled 
 with spectators on all sides, on tiers of seats. 
 In the centre was a raised dais ; on it two 
 splendid silver-plated chairs, and over it a 
 canopy hung with light blue satin trimmed 
 with wavy silver fringe. Andrew and I had 
 reserved places close to the dais — in fact, with 
 the Viceregal party, as Miss Baring sat just 
 before me, and her companion, Miss Ffoulks, 
 occupied the chair next to mine. She was 
 very kind in telling me the names of the In- 
 dian Princes. Each arrived separately, with a 
 grand procession of attendants, officials, and 
 banners. Each Knight Grand Commander 
 wore over his own gorgeous native dress a 
 most beautiful blue satin robe lined with white 
 
60 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 satin, the collar of the Order round his neck, 
 their long trains being held each by two pages 
 brilliantly dressed, the two little black ones 
 of the Maharajah of Rewah in red and yellow, 
 the National March being played outside. 
 There were two bands, one of them from the 
 " Serapis." 
 
 The Begum of Bhopal arrived first, the only 
 Lady Knight Commander. She is very small ; 
 her face was covered with a blue veil which 
 stood out like a vizor so that no one could see 
 her. She looked quite a bundle of silk, the 
 blue satin mantle of the Order over all. She 
 arrived at 8 a.m. with her procession. After, 
 came at periods of five minutes, Sir Salar 
 Jung Bahador, the Maharajah of Pattiala, the 
 Commander-in-Chief Lord Napier of Magdala, 
 the Maharajah of Travancore, Sir Bartle Frere, 
 the Maharajahs of Rewah, Jeypore, Holkar, 
 Cashmere, and Scindia. Each moved off right 
 and left to the seat allotted to him ; so when 
 all were settled they formed an avenue from 
 
CALCUTTA. 61 
 
 the throne, their attendants and pages being 
 placed behind their respective princes. Most 
 splendid they looked in their gorgeous cos- 
 tumes and dazzling jewels. All the most 
 brilliant colours were there in the richest satins 
 and velvets embroidered in gold and pearls 
 and other precious stones, the mantles of the 
 Star of India being thrown back so that the 
 dresses underneath could be seen. Each 
 native prince wore splendid jewels in pro- 
 fusion. Most of them had several necklaces, 
 strings of immense pearls, emeralds, rubies, 
 diamonds, and sapphires ; their turbans and 
 differently shaped head-dresses were loaded with 
 them. Pattiala outshone all the rest ; he wore 
 diamonds that had belonged to the Empress 
 Eugenie, an exquisite spray of diamonds in his 
 turban being most effective. Pattiala is a 
 fine-looking young man and is very stately. 
 Hewab was extremely gorgeous ; he wore a 
 huge gem on each finger, of many different 
 kinds. Some had diamond armlets. But it is 
 
62 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA.. 
 
 impossible to do justice to the magnificence of 
 the costumes. Cashmere is a proud man; 
 Holkar very portly ; Jeypore much smaller — 
 he wore spectacles and was more plainly 
 dressed than most. Besides these very 
 great Maharajahs, there were many other 
 grandees, amongst them the Rajah of Be- 
 nares. 
 
 About 9 o'clock the Prince of Wales entered 
 the tent in state, his procession consisting of 
 his suite. He wore a field-marshal's uniform, 
 with a white helmet and plume, the blue 
 satin mantle and collar of the Order, diamond 
 star, &c. ; his pages were naval cadets dressed 
 in blue satin — hats and white feathers, Charles 
 the First style, but they were too tall. The 
 last procession was that of the Grand Master, 
 Lord Northbrook. When the Prince ascended 
 the dais the band played our National An- 
 them, everyone standing. The Prince and 
 Lord Northbrook then sat on the silver 
 chairs ; the pages belonging to each stood 
 
CALCUTTA. 63 
 
 behind ; and the suites had chairs behind the 
 dais. Mr. Atchison, the Secretary, wore a 
 white satin cloak lined with blue satin, and 
 conducted the whole business with exceeding 
 dignity. The Maharajah of Jodhpore, and the 
 Rajah of Jheend were created Knights Grand 
 Commanders by the Prince of Wales. The 
 first-named was dressed in most quaint style : 
 he had a very wide petticoat full of pleats 
 and rather short, that stuck out like a ballet 
 girl's dress. The colour was pink, and he 
 wore splendid jewels. Mr. Atchison brought 
 these two great men to the dais one at a time, 
 with much ceremony. He and they bowed 
 three times to His Eoyal Highness and the 
 same to the Viceroy, approaching, which they 
 repeated retiring, walking backwards from the 
 dais. Mr. Atchison had difficulty in making 
 his pupils walk backward, especially the Maha- 
 rajah of Jodhpore, who seemed to find this 
 part of the performance very trying. The 
 mantle of the Order with the long train, which 
 
64 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 was then put on him for the first time, in- 
 creased his trouble. The Priuce placed the 
 very handsome chain of gold and enamel over 
 the heads of the newly-made Knights Grand 
 Commanders. This was the collar of the 
 Order, and was worn by all of the highest 
 degree. The Maharajah of Puuna, in a high 
 yellow head-dress decorated with splendid 
 diamonds, the Rajah of Nahum, the Sahib of 
 Indore, Mr. Robinson, and many others, were 
 created Knights Commanders, and the Prince 
 of Wales invested them with the blue ribbon 
 and Star of India set in diamonds. He con- 
 ferred the Third Degree on others. We were 
 close to the table on which were the different 
 badges, and where the knights were robed. 
 The Order of the Third Class was merely 
 fastened on the left side of the coat. 
 
 The whole of the Shemiana was filled with 
 well-dressed people, and the coup d'ceil was 
 magnificent. It was splendid to see the 
 Knights Grand Commanders with their pages, 
 
CALCUTTA. 65 
 
 suites, and banners march away in grand pro- 
 cession when all was over. His Royal High- 
 ness the Prince of "Wales left first. 
 
 The bands played at intervals during the 
 chapter. 
 
66 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 RETURN TO DINAPORE. GEE AT DURBAR AT BANKI- 
 
 POBE. PEOCESSION OF ELEPHANTS. AGRA.— 
 
 TAJ MAHAL BY MOONLIGHT. MOTI MUSJID. 
 
 PORT. PALACES. JUMNA MUSJID. JOURNEY 
 
 TO DELHI. 
 
 We and the Stewarts, with their dog Robin, 
 and servants, left Calcutta at night for Dina- 
 pore. The train was very late. As we had 
 a reserved compartment, we were obliged to 
 wait till after the mail train left, and that was 
 two hours late. The platform was crowded 
 with natives squatting about with their great 
 bundles of bedding, kitchen utensils, &c. 
 Many belonged to Indian princes leaving Cal- 
 
BANKIPOEE. 67 
 
 cutta. Outside the station were numbers of 
 horses waiting to be sent on by train. Some 
 were not likely to get away for days. 
 
 Now that the Calcutta Festivities are over, 
 every one that can, moves north. We returned 
 with the Stewarts to Dinapore to stay with 
 them. 
 
 January 3rd. — This afternoon we and the 
 Stewarts went to Bankipore from Dinapore, 
 on a visit to the 109th Regiment encamped 
 there. Colonel Stewart took beds and every- 
 thing needful. The 109th found us capital 
 tents, in which we slept. We all dined at 
 mess; afterwards sat out of doors round a 
 bonfire, while the excellent band played. We 
 saw a very beautiful and tame leopard that the 
 sergeants were going to give our Prince on the 
 morrow. It was very cold in the tent at 
 night. 
 
 January 4th. — About 7 o'clock this morning 
 we were in the splendid durbar tent, taste- 
 fully decorated for the reception of the Prince 
 
 5 * 
 
68 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 of Wales. A raised dais at one end, with two 
 gold-plated chairs. From the durbar tent 
 outside was a long avenue of Venetian masts 
 with red flags. The 109th lined the approach 
 and guarded the ground. Inside the tent sat 
 Indian princes right and left of the dais, ar- 
 ranged according to their rank, each in his 
 own chair of state plated with gold or silver, 
 or made of carved ivory, with velvet cushions. 
 The young Maharajah, Kuch Be war, was there ; 
 the Rajah of Patna; the Rajah of Dumraon, a 
 venerable, stately man in a full white muslin 
 dress down to his feet, very beautifully set 
 diamonds in his white turban ; he wore a 
 splendid necklace of diamonds and emeralds, 
 besides other necklaces. The Rajah of Hut- 
 wah wore black velvet richly embroidered in 
 gold; his jewels were grand emeralds. . Rajah 
 Deo, of the line of Uddiapore, the oldest house 
 of India, and perhaps of the world, had a 
 toilette of various colours. One great man 
 wore mauve satin embroidered in gold. They 
 
BANKIPORE. 69 
 
 seemed to vie with each other in magnificence ; 
 most of them were gorgeous with jewels, and 
 bright colours in the richest materials. 
 
 Having chosen our seats, we went out to 
 inspect the elephants. I was told there were 
 five hundred arid seventy. They were splen- 
 didly got up; they wore ear-rings, necklaces 
 (one made of rupees strung together), silver 
 anklets ; strings of large beads hanging across 
 the face in rows ; grand housings, some gold- 
 plated, hanging nearly to their feet. The 
 howdas were splendid — gold-plated, silver- 
 plated, ivory, or some other material, covered 
 with bright colours. Many of the elephants 
 had their faces and trunks painted in a cash- 
 mere shawl pattern in colours. One huge 
 beast was painted all over in this style. 
 
 The Prince of "Wales arrived about 9 a.m. 
 with his suite, and Sir Richard Temple, in 
 several carriages. There was a mounted es- 
 cort. The Prince was received with cheers. 
 He and Sir Richard Temple took their places 
 
70 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 before the state chairs on the dais, and stood 
 while the native chiefs, many civilians, and 
 the officers of the 109th, were presented. The 
 natives made great salaams. Our Prince 
 bowed in return — sometimes he sighed as if 
 he were tired of it. 
 
 After this reception the Prince looked at the 
 presents given to him by the Rajahs. Then a 
 breakfast took place in another tent, for which 
 we all had invitations ; the Prince, his suite, 
 and the principal people of Bankipore at one 
 table, the general company at others. After 
 dejeuner (for which we were thankful, seeing 
 we had waited long and the morning was cold) 
 the Prince inspected the elephants. We stood 
 near him, so saw well. They marched past, 
 four deep, in all their Oriental magnificence. 
 It was indeed a splendid sight : each had a 
 mahout on his neck, and gaily dressed natives 
 there were in the howdas. One of the ele- 
 phants belonging to the Maharajah of Hutwa 
 was fifty years old, ten feet ten inches high ; 
 
BANKIPOEE. 71 
 
 his name was Jumna Per shad ; his howda was 
 gold-plated and had a kind of dome, three 
 brilliantly dressed natives in it, and the ma- 
 hout was gorgeous. This elephant's golden 
 housings hung to his knees ; he was decorated 
 with heaps of ornaments, great ear-rings stuck 
 in the tops of his ears, necklace, &c. One 
 very small elephant, when he arrived opposite 
 the Prince, stopped, and danced before him. 
 
 We saw the presents given to the Prince ; 
 beautiful they were — elaborate silver claret- 
 jugs, tea-service in cashmere-work, silver fili- 
 gree baskets exquisitely done, a gold-plated 
 palkee, and many other things, besides a pair 
 of very pretty little oxen, called Grhinee, in a 
 handsome small bullock-cart. "When these 
 little beasts were being driven about to be 
 shown off to our Prince they arrived at one 
 of the strips of scarlet drugget laid down for 
 the guests to walk on, both jumped it at the 
 same time as if it had been a ditch, to the great 
 amusement of those present. 
 
72 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 The Prince and party left for Benares after 
 the march past of the elephants. 
 
 This afternoon Colonel Stewart, Andrew, 
 and I rode an elephant an hour out and back 
 again, through the city of Patna, which is 
 composed of mud hovels. The bad smells 
 were disagreeable. No display in the bazaar. 
 Elephants and camels round a Rajah's en- 
 campment. We dined at mess with the 109th 
 in a large tent, then went to Mrs. Metcalfe's 
 ball given in the Shemiana tent, where the 
 durbar was held this morning. The band of 
 the 109th played charmingly. I danced 
 several times. Mr. Edgar, Deputy Commis- 
 sioner of Darjeeling, begged to be introduced 
 to me, out of admiration for the old point-lace 
 on my dress. He took me in to supper, and 
 Sir Richard Temple called me to sit on his 
 left. He was the great man there, being 
 Lieutenant-G-overnor of Bengal. He invited 
 us to stay with him at Calcutta and Darjeeling. 
 
 Yery cold, frosty night. 
 
BANKTPORB. 73 
 
 Wednesday, January 6th. — We drove to the 
 Gola, a huge, dome- shaped building, very 
 high, with steps outside winding round to the 
 top. It was built to contain grain in case of 
 famine, but not used as it did not answer. 
 
 We went inside, where there is a curious 
 echo; if one spoke, the sentence was repeated 
 just behind in a sepulchral tone; if anyone 
 laughed, it seemed that a hundred demons 
 were echoing it all round. A plank dashed on 
 the ground caused a frantic noise. 
 
 "We went to the top of the Grola outside. 
 The view consisted mostly of flat country, 
 the Granges, and the tents of the 109th. We 
 saw a fine young tiger in a wooden box on 
 a bullock-cart brought for our Prince, who 
 will have quite a menagerie on board the 
 Serapis." 
 
 fcWe returned with our kind friends, Colonel 
 ad Mrs. Stewart, to their charming house at 
 Dinapore, where they have everything so well 
 appointed and so comfortable, even to ex- 
 
74 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 cellent butter and cream — luxuries difficult to 
 meet with in India. 
 
 We remained two nights, then started for 
 the north. Colonel Stewart and Fanny took 
 us in their carriage to the station and saw us 
 off. They have been only too kind to us in 
 every way. We travelled part of the day and 
 all night — past Allahabad on to Agra, where 
 we arrived next day about 2 p.m., having a 
 good view of the grand White Taj Mahal long 
 before, across the plain. Close to the station 
 the Jumna Musjid and Fort are fine objects. 
 
 We settled ourselves at Harrison's Hotel. 
 
 After tiffin we drove to the Taj Mahal, some 
 two or three miles. Great preparations were 
 going on along the road for the reception of 
 the Prince of Wales. Terrible dust blowing 
 about — the air quite thick with it. 
 
 We passed under a magnificent gateway of 
 red sandstone decorated with inlaid marbles, 
 into the gardens, having the incomparable 
 White Marble Taj in full view at the end of 
 
FRONT VIEW OP THE TAJ MAHAL, AGRA. 
 
 By permission of Mr. F. York, 87, Lancaster Road, Netting Hill, London, W. 
 
AGRA. 75 
 
 a long vista of cypress. We walked on white 
 marble up this avenue by a narrow reservoir 
 where are pipes for fountains to play. How- 
 ever, water was wanting. On each side this 
 narrow tank are lovely gardens and trees — 
 pointsettias and other flowers in bloom. It 
 must be about a quarter of a mile from the 
 gateway to the Taj. This is a huge domed 
 building with four detached minarets of the 
 purest white marble standing on a great plat- 
 form of the same. Round the four fine arches 
 of the Taj, and the windows, are sentences 
 from the Koran, executed in inlaid black 
 marble ; in the middle of the great arches are 
 bouquets of flowers formed of coloured stones 
 inlaid in the white marble. On one side of 
 the Taj is a mosque built of red sandstone 
 with three white marble domes ; on the other 
 a false mosque to match called the Jawab 
 (answer). We went all about the mosque and 
 to the top of one of the minarets, from whence 
 we had a good sight of the top of the Taj 
 
T(i A PLEASTTBE TEIP TO INDIA . 
 
 with the four small domes on the roof and 
 gilt spikes crowning them. All these buildings 
 are on the sacred river Jumna. "We saw a 
 fire by the river, and were told it was caused 
 bv burning 1 bodies. 
 
 ^r went three separate times inside the 
 Taj, examined it with candles, and afterwards 
 blue lights. The wainscoating round the dome 
 has bouquets of flowers exquisitely sculptured 
 in the white marble. Under the centre of 
 the great dome is the monument to Moom: 
 Ifehul, and next to it is oir :; Shan Jehan. 
 are both sarcophagi of the purest white 
 marble, exquisitely inlaid with bloodstones, 
 agates, lapis lazuli, malachite, and other choice 
 stones, in flowers and divers patterns. An 
 octagonal screen of white marble all open- 
 worked in exquisite tracery encircles them. 
 I: is iecorated here and there with lovely 
 flowers in mosaic. 
 
 We descended by marble steps into the 
 chamber beneath, where the king and queen 
 
AGEA. 77 
 
 really are buried ; two beautiful white marble 
 sarcophagi inlaid with precious stones are there 
 also — pietre dure, I mean. 
 
 Shah Jehan built the Taj as a mausoleum 
 to his favourite wife Moomtaz-i-Mehul. Twenty 
 thousand men toiled at it twenty years, and 
 though the labour was forced, it cost two 
 millions of sovereigns. 
 
 We were fortunate in having a full moon, 
 the best moment for seeing the exterior of the 
 Taj to perfection, and most beautiful it was, 
 — in fact, a sight never to be forgotten. We 
 walked round the platform, stopping constantly 
 to admire and wonder — the lights and shadows 
 in the lovely garden exquisite. From the 
 gateway looking down the avenue of cypress 
 the Taj appeared by moonlight most ghostly, so 
 very white — quite a dream of beauty. I could 
 hardly tear myself away — nor could we resist 
 visiting the beauteous sight again another night. 
 
 When the sun shines on the Taj, the intense 
 whiteness is dazzling. 
 
78 A PLBASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 On Sunday we walked a mile to the English 
 Church, and back. It was hot and very dusty. 
 We drove to the Fort to see it and to attend 
 afternoon service there, but found none. We 
 went over the many fine buildings inside the 
 walls. The Motee Musjid, .or Pearl Mosque, 
 stands on a lofty sandstone platform. We 
 passed under the red stone gateway and en- 
 tered the courtyard of the mosque — all white 
 marble — the pavement, the mosque, and the 
 arcades quite dazzling in the bright sunshine. 
 This beautiful mosque has three domes, capped 
 with gilded spires ; there are also seven smaller 
 domes on columns. The three great domes 
 surmount a corridor open to the court, and are 
 divided into aisles by rows of the most beauti- 
 fully proportioned Saracenic arches. The side 
 aisles are for the women, the middle part for 
 the men, the space for each person being marked 
 off by a line of black marble inlaid in the white. 
 
 Ukbur's Palace is of red sandstone with 
 ornamental designs in white marble. The 
 
AGKA. 79 
 
 Dewan-i-Am has a raised part for the throne, 
 which is of white marble inlaid with precious 
 stones. Here the king gave audience. 
 
 There are quite a series of splendid palaces 
 inside the Fort, rich with carving and inlaid 
 work. The pavilions in white marble exquisitely 
 inlaid with jpietre dure, representing bouquets 
 of flowers, overhang the river Jumna, and are 
 specially fine. One of these, the boudoir of 
 the chief Sultana, is a wondrous specimen of 
 carved and inlaid work. Also a lovely small 
 private royal mosque. The glories of the Al- 
 hambra, which we visited some years since, 
 pale before these rich Indian buildings. The 
 view from them is also lovely, including the Taj. 
 
 The Sheesh Mahal is an Oriental bathing 
 retreat. The walls of the rooms are covered 
 with a mosaic of different - coloured bits of 
 looking-glass, laid in the most intricate pat- 
 terns. 
 
 "We saw also some curious old carved wooden 
 gates called those of Somnath. 
 
80 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 From the Delhi gate is a good view of the 
 great Jumna Musjid — a perfect specimen of 
 Saracenic architecture in red and white stone. 
 It has the usual three domes. The natives 
 drive about Agra in eckas drawn often by 
 bullocks. Some of these quaint carriages are 
 much decorated and painted with gay colours. 
 
 In the Fort we saw great preparations going 
 on for the ball to be given to the Prince of 
 Wales in the Dewani-Am. The work every- 
 where increases the dust — the air is thick 
 with it. 
 
 January 10th. — We left Agra. The train 
 was so crowded that though we had first-class 
 tickets, as usual, we, with others (equally 
 taken in), had to travel second-class all day. 
 However, we had very agreeable companions, 
 Colonel and Miss Carter amongst them. . 
 
 The country flat. We saw quantities of 
 black buck and peacocks wild. 
 
81 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 DELHI. — AEEIVAL OP H.E.H. THE PEINOE OP WALES. 
 
 — GEAND MILITAEY PEOCESSION. JAMA MUS- 
 
 JID. CHANDNEE OHOWK. MAEOH-PAST OP 
 
 THE AEMY. BALL IN THE OLD PALACE. 
 
 KOOTUB MINAE. MAEEIAGE PEOCESSION. 
 
 WOEK OP ENGLISH CHUECH MISSION. 
 
 "We reached Delhi at night and drove to the 
 Prince of Wales' Hotel, where rooms had been 
 engaged for us long ago. The bed-room very 
 large, with hardly any furniture ; the bath- 
 room built outside, of straw. Cold night. 
 
 Next morning we were up early, and soon 
 after 8 o'clock arrived at the Flag-staff Tower 
 on the Eidge, where, owing to the kindness of 
 
 6 
 
82 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Mrs. Lumsden, we found chairs ready for us 
 on the roof ; and there we awaited the arrival 
 of the Prince of Wales. At last he came, with 
 a very numerous, most brilliant staff, and a 
 splendid military procession, about 10 o'clock. 
 The sides of the road all the way to the station 
 were thickly lined with soldiers. As the 
 Prince and Staff passed on, each regiment 
 closed in and marched after, so the great pro- 
 cession was; : constantly growing in length. 
 Lord Napier of Magdala, the Commander-in- 
 Chief, was in an open carriage, having lately 
 broken his collar-bone ; the Prince of Wales 
 was on horseback, in full uniform ; also the 
 Duke of Sutherland, &c. They all passed close 
 under the tower. We could see in all direc- 
 tions, and truly this great entree of our Prince 
 into Delhi was a magnificent pageant- 1 — no less 
 than eighteen thousand troops ! their various 
 uniforms adding much to the scene. 
 
 The wind bitterly cold this morning, so dry 
 and hard. 
 
DELHI. 83 
 
 We drove to head- quarters and called on 
 General and Mrs. Lnmsden, who gave us 
 breakfast. They are in tents, their salon most 
 comfortable, with a fire. 
 
 This afternoon we saw the beautiful Jama 
 Musjid, the Mosque of Shah Jehan. It stands 
 on a high platform, to which we ascended by 
 many steps of fine width. At the top of this 
 great flight is a handsome gateway of red 
 sandstone, which leads into a grand quadrangle 
 in the middle of which is a marble reservoir 
 of water for the Faithful to bathe — all the 
 pavement white marble. There are two other 
 entrances. On the west of the square stands 
 the mosque, crowned by three cupolas of white 
 marble ribbed with black. The interior is paved 
 with white marble slabs, each framed in black, 
 like the Pearl Mosque at Agra. The two min- 
 arets of white marble and red sandstone are 
 very high, and there are a good many lovely 
 pavilions of white marble on the roof of the 
 mosque. We ascended one of the minarets 
 
 6 * 
 
84 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 and had a capital view of Delhi and the country. 
 We met the Duke of Sutherland strolling about 
 the Jama Musjid. He evidently appreciates 
 the sight-seeing, and is anxious to see the Taj 
 by moonlight. 
 
 Andrew and I repaired to the bazaars. The 
 Chandnee Chowk, the best one, is very amusing. 
 The houses have shops on the ground floor 
 and above, but no display of goods outside; 
 they are now decorated with flags. Framed 
 prints hung outside, and glass chandeliers. 
 
 January 1 2th. — A grand day at Delhi. We 
 were up soon after 6 o'clock, and drove some 
 miles out of town to a great plain, where we 
 saw the march-past of the army before the 
 Prince of Wales — a splendid and curious sight 
 — and we had the best place, as Mrs. Lumsden 
 sent for us to go into her carriage, which was 
 close to the Prince. He was on a fine brown char- 
 ger, and looked splendid in his Field Marshal's 
 uniform with orders and the blue ribbon of the 
 Star of India, the Duke of Sutherland and a 
 
DELHI. 85 
 
 very large staff with him, including Lord 
 Napier with his arm in a sling — too soon for 
 him to be on horseback after his accident. 
 However he was determined to run the risk. 
 Some twenty thousand six hundred soldiers 
 marched past — cavalry, infantry, artillery, 
 English regiments, amongst them the 10th and 
 11th Hussars, also Sikhs, Ghoorkas, Pun- 
 jaubees, Central India men, Bengalees, Pro- 
 byn's Horse, our kind friend Colonel Palliser's 
 regiment, 10th Bengal Lancers, &c, quan- 
 tities of cannon, each drawn by six horses. 
 The mountain battery of mules with light 
 cannon on their backs, and the ammunition 
 carts, drawn by bullocks, were interesting, 
 but still more so was the sight of the heavy 
 battery of Armstrongs drawn by huge ele- 
 phants harnessed tandem fashion. As these 
 clever animals passed the Prince they saluted 
 him by turning up their trunks. There were 
 many military bands, each regiment had its 
 own, playing either an English or a Native 
 
86 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 march, as the case might be. The great 
 variety of uniforms was most interesting; 
 also it was very curious to see the different 
 natives, all shades of colours. After the 
 march-past thej horse artillery and cavalry 
 trotted by, then galloped — truly a magnificent 
 spectacle. I have not mentioned the fact that 
 the Maharajah Scindia and a young Rajah were 
 on horseback with our Prince. There were 
 crowds of carriages filled with spectators, 
 English and Native, and in the background a 
 line of elephants with people in howdas. A 
 gazelle, led by two boys, marched before one 
 English regiment. 
 
 The drive back to Delhi we found trying, 
 from the clouds of dust, but it was wonderful 
 to see the different kinds of conveyances — 
 carriages, ticker-gharees, bullock-eckas, gaily 
 decorated and full of natives in bright colours. 
 Then there were camels and elephants carrying 
 people — some of the latter huge beasts with 
 grand howdas. Lady Davis's carriage was 
 
DELHI. 87 
 
 drawn by four camels, each ridden by a native. 
 There were many very miserable horses and 
 ponies toiling with difficulty along the heavy 
 sand — now and then a carriage stuck fast. I 
 felt so sorry for the poor animals. We hired 
 a carriage and pair of horses before arriving at 
 Delhi. We find them much fatigued ponies. 
 Yery cold wind. 
 
 We had an invitation for luncheon to-day 
 with General and Mrs. Watson, but unfortu- 
 nately received it too late. 
 
 At night we went to a splendid ball given 
 by Lord Napier and the Officers of the Army 
 at Delhi, in the Dewan-i-Khas in the Fort. 
 A beautiful hall, having thirty-two square 
 columns of white marble, inlaid below with 
 bright jpietre dure in floral designs, the upper 
 part and ceiling being carved in basso relievo 
 (flowers again) and gilt ; rich, thick Indian 
 carpets on the inlaid marble floor ; brocaded 
 satin curtains to the doors (called purdas) ; 
 the whole brilliantly lighted by glass chande- 
 
88 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 liers hanging from the ceiling. At each, end 
 of this hall was a fountain of white marble 
 with ferns in the basin; the water playing 
 lightly over them. Temporary ball-rooms had 
 been arranged each side of the Dewan-i-Khas 
 with capital boarded floors — an excellent band 
 in each salle de danse. From these we went 
 into other suites of white marble rooms inlaid 
 with bright real stones, some devoted to the 
 bath — they used to be the ladies' apartments. 
 The windows were of white perforated marble 
 cut out in lovely lace-like patterns. Altogether 
 it was a realisation of an Arabian Night's En- 
 tertainment, with the exception that the com- 
 pany were Europeans, but the uniforms and 
 gay toilettes were very effective. 
 
 The Prince of "Wales caught his spur in a 
 lady's dress when dancing, and fell flat on his 
 back, much to his own amusement. I did not 
 see this, but Andrew heard of it. 
 
 The supper was a " sit-down one," and no 
 doubt good for those who first attacked it. 
 
DELHI. 89 
 
 The Prince and people in authority sat at a 
 table on a raised platform. The Prince took 
 in Mrs. Hatch, the judge's wife. The general 
 company were at numerous other tables, ar- 
 ranged as at a restaurant. The road to the 
 ball was brilliantly illuminated, as was also 
 the great gateway of the Fort, and it was de- 
 corated with piles of armour. No expense was 
 spared ; everything was done to make the ball 
 most brilliant, and so it was. 
 
 Next day we spent some time in the Ohand- 
 nee Ohowk, the great bazaar for jewellery and em- 
 broidery, both lovely. We invested in a good deal. 
 
 At night we drove about to see the native 
 illuminations. The Jama Musjid looked beau- 
 tiful, also the Chandnee Ohowk. Myriads of 
 small red earthen saucers filled with oil, and 
 a wick in them, placed close together in lines 
 or patterns, make a great effect when lighted. 
 There were also Chinese lanterns ; two great 
 decorated arches, in one a number of people 
 dressed up as knights. 
 
90 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Delhi is a terribly dusty place. 
 
 We called on Mrs. Probyn in the civil camp. 
 
 The Cashmere Gate retains marks of the 
 fighting during the Mutiny. 
 
 We saw the monument to General Nicholson 
 who was a very brave soldier and fell in the 
 attack on Delhi, September 1857. The Ridge 
 is a rocky, rather elevated part, outside the 
 town. On it is a Gothic tower built in honour 
 of the gallant captors of Delhi. We ascended 
 the winding stair to the top, from whence we 
 had a fine view of Delhi and the country ; in 
 the distance we saw the smoke of the great 
 sham fight going on to-day. 
 
 We visited the Fort and examined the ex- 
 quisite buildings in it better than we could at 
 the ball. In the Dewan-i-Khas we saw the 
 marble dais on which the celebrated Peacock 
 Throne stood. The Eung Muhul is now used 
 as a mess-room. The Dewan-i-Am is a large 
 hall open on three sides, the roof supported by 
 red sandstone pillars. The raised throne has 
 
THE KOOTUB MINAB. 91 
 
 a canopy over it. The wall at the back of it 
 is inlaid in mosaic representing birds and 
 flowers. Here the king used to give audience. 
 
 We dined at head- quarters with General and 
 Mrs. Lumsden in a most comfortable tent, with 
 a fire in the grate, this acceptable. 
 
 We made a great excursion to the Kootub, 
 eleven miles there, changing horses en route. 
 The road is quite an Appian way — so many 
 tombs and mosques on each side. The mauso- 
 leum to Suftur Jung is large and handsome. 
 
 The Kootub Minar is a great tower, two 
 hundred and thirty-eight feet high — much 
 larger at the base than at the top. It is 
 divided into five stories. The carvings on 
 these and on the balconies all vary. The lower 
 stories are sandstone, the upper ones marble. 
 We went to the top of the Kootub, from 
 whence we had a very extensive view, including 
 Toghlukabad. 
 
 Near the Kootub is a beautiful gateway 
 covered with exquisite carving. 
 
92 A PLEASUKE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 The ruined mosque is grand. The pillars 
 round the quadrangle are very elaborately 
 carved; there are five rows of them — grand 
 arches on the west side of the mosque. These 
 ruins are Jain architecture. Nothing can sur- 
 pass the endless variety of the sculptures on 
 the pillars or the sharpness of the execution. 
 
 In the quadrangle stands an iron column 
 supposed to be the most ancient relic of the 
 departed Hindoo city. 
 
 As we returned to Delhi we made a detour 
 to see Homayoon's great Tomb. It is the 
 first known example of the style of sepulchre 
 now so famous in the Taj of Agra, and is 
 built of stone and marble. We also visited 
 many other mausoleums of white marble ex- 
 quisitely carved and decorated. 
 
 In the Chandnee Chowk at Delhi we saw a 
 wedding procession, in which there were many 
 horses gaily caparisoned, some led, others 
 ridden by children — very curious carriages, 
 too. The bride and bridegroom were both on 
 
DELHI. 93 
 
 horseback, some distance from each, other. 
 The bride was closely veiled and looked like a 
 bundle of clothes sitting astride the horse, 
 which had a man walking on each side of it. 
 At intervals in the procession were native 
 musicians making a great noise with tom-toms 
 and fifes. 
 
 On Sunday we went twice to the English 
 Church. At the evening service Canon Duck- 
 worth preached admirably. He has a fine 
 voice — such a pleasure to hear him ! 
 
 The next day Andrew went on an elephant 
 with Major Ross to watch some military games. 
 I accompanied Miss Bland of the English 
 Church Mission, to see their girls' schools for 
 native Mahometans and Hindoos. They were 
 in separate rooms. I heard them read. They 
 work, and are taught to read an arrangement 
 of the Bible in their own language, but are 
 not forced to become Christians. They have 
 Christian native teachers. One of the Hindoo 
 teachers was of a high-caste family, and very 
 
94 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 good-looking. The school-rooms were the 
 usual mud hovels. 
 
 We drove on into the very extra native part 
 of the city and paid a visit to some "purda," 
 Mahometan women, always shut up, excepting 
 on great occasions like a wedding. They did 
 not expect company, and looked very untidy. 
 They were in a mud house. The old grand- 
 mother sat on one bed combing her grey hair ; 
 a servant's baby lay on another. The Maho- 
 metan women live on the ground floor, Hindoo 
 women upstairs. 
 
 We next visited a family of high - caste 
 Hindoo women. Miss Bland said she had 
 spoken to them about worshipping idols, their 
 answer being " Oh, but you do not know what 
 a beautiful god ours is ! " In this house we 
 were not allowed to go near the cooking part 
 of the room, as we should have defiled it. 
 
 After leaving, we fell in with the clergyman 
 of our church at Delhi and Canon Duckworth. 
 With them we saw a very handsome Jain 
 
DELHI. 95 
 
 temple containing the white marble idol so 
 much admired by Miss Bland's Hindoo friend. 
 The carving in marble and stone very rich in 
 this temple. Before the chief idol is a table on 
 which the worshippers place offerings of flowers 
 and other things. In a side room are numbers 
 of idols in rows, and in an outer court a car 
 with two marble elephants to take the idol out 
 in processions. We were told there were no 
 regular priests. Miss Bland afterwards kindly 
 helped me to buy things in the Chandnee 
 Chowk. We also walked about some of the 
 queer narrow streets of the city. 
 
 We left Delhi this evening soon after 5 
 o'clock for the north. 
 
96 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 MEEAN MEER. — LAHORE. — UMRITZUR. — SIRDHANA. 
 AGRA AGAIN. 
 
 January 18th. — We arrived this morning 
 early at Meean Meer Station, near Lahore, and 
 found a guree waiting to take us to Colonel 
 Martin's, also a bullock-cart for the luggage. 
 We drove three miles to the bungalow, where 
 Mrs. Martin gave us a hearty welcome. 
 
 Colonel Martin was attending our Prince's 
 levee at Lahore. He soon returned, and after 
 tiffin drove us to the beautiful Shalimar Gar- 
 dens, near Lahore, so celebrated by Moore in 
 " Lalla Rookh." We walked about them and 
 
MEEAN MEER. 97 
 
 were delighted with the fine trees, fountains, 
 and white marble retreats to sit in. 
 
 At night we all went to the great ball given 
 by Europeans to His Royal Highness the 
 Prince of Wales at Lahore, in a fine room ad- 
 mirably decorated, situated in the European 
 part called Anakulle. Everything was well 
 carried out. 
 
 Next day we all attended the opening of the 
 Industrial Soldiers' Exhibition at Meean Meer. 
 Our Prince and suite, with Sir Henry Davis, 
 Lieutenant- Governor, were there. The Prince 
 declared the Exhibition opened. There were 
 numberless nice things made by the soldiers. 
 We invested in feathers, a small stuffed cobra 
 capella, and other things. 
 
 After dinner we drove to the Shalimar Gar- 
 dens, Lahore, and attended a fete given to 
 the Prince of Wales by Sir Henry and Lady 
 Davis. It was tedious work getting to the 
 entrance, the road being blocked with carriages, 
 Native Eajahs, and Nawabs with mounted 
 
 7 
 
98 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 escorts, camels, &c. — a great confusion, but a 
 curious sight. 
 
 The gardens and fountains were brilliantly 
 illuminated by innumerable small lights in 
 earthen saucers on the ground, making lines of 
 fire ; the reflection in the water was very 
 pretty. All the fountains played. 
 
 The gardens are laid out in a formal style, 
 divided by long strips of water having a row 
 of jets down the centre. At the royal en- 
 trance were quantities of bright Chinese 
 lanterns hung about. 
 
 "We saw the royal party arrive in state, the 
 Prince with Lady Davis. They went into a 
 marble kiosk in the most lovely part of the 
 gardens, and here many native chiefs were 
 presented to the Prince. They were resplen- 
 dent with jewels — one was quite a boy. 
 
 The night was lovely, but extremely cold. 
 There were no seats, and we were much tired. 
 Many ladies fainted ; one had a fit. 
 
 "We had long to wait for our carriage, on 
 
LAHOEE. 99 
 
 account of the crowd, and did not reach 
 Meean Meer till past 3 o'clock next morning. 
 
 However, after a good rest, we drove to 
 Lahore, six miles, and saw the fine Fort. 
 There is a very curious collection of old arms 
 in the Armoury — a splendid old palace in the 
 Fort. One large room is called the Shis- 
 mahal; it is open on one side to out-of-doors. 
 The walls and ceiling are covered with large 
 and small pieces of different-coloured looking- 
 glass set in some silvery - coloured metal — 
 very antique and beautiful. There are also 
 other smaller rooms decorated in the same 
 way. 
 
 From the top of the Fort we had a good 
 view of the city of Lahore — the mosque ; 
 temples ; a large encampment of JRajahs with 
 grand tents, those belonging to the Nawab of 
 Bhowulpur being of crimson silk; there were 
 quantities of horses, elephants, and camels 
 about, and soldiers keeping guard. In the 
 distance we saw the splendid range of the 
 
 7 * 
 
100 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 snowy Himalayas with their peaks in Cash- 
 mere. 
 
 After the Fort we visited the red sandstone 
 mosque, and a beautiful white marble tomb 
 to Runjeet Singh, in a lovely garden, with a 
 palm tree standing near ; also another 
 white marble tomb much decorated and 
 painted with curious native scenes. There 
 were some priests in this ; one man was play- 
 ing a stringed instrument and singing wild 
 music for the repose of the soul of the in- 
 terred one. 
 
 We ended with the Zoological Gardens. 
 
 January 2\st. — Andrew and Colonel Martin 
 set off on a shooting expedition — Mrs. Martin 
 and I drove to a garden party at Government 
 House given by Lady Davis. She was very 
 kind. There were a good many people playing 
 badminton, amongst them the Nawab of Bho- 
 walpur in white satin with green satin trousers. 
 The entertainment ended with dancing in the 
 house. The Prince of "Wales had left on a 
 
LAHORE. 101 
 
 visit to Jumoo to the Maharajah of Cash- 
 mere. 
 
 Colonel Martin and Andrew returned next 
 day with pea-fowl, quail, black partridge, &c. 
 
 At night we all drove to Lahore to see the 
 illuminations and fireworks, of which we had 
 a capital view from the top of the cutcherry. 
 The great mosque and many other large build- 
 ings were lined out in fire, also all the streets. 
 The college where the Prince dined was a 
 blaze of light ; there was a huge bonfire, round 
 which Afghan men performed a sword-dance. 
 There was not very much to be seen, on ac- 
 count of the smoke, but the swords shining 
 as they were brandished about looked wild and 
 weird. The fireworks were very grand, and 
 included innumerable fire- balloons. These 
 over, we were entertained with an excellent 
 supper given by the natives. 
 
 On Sunday we went twice to Meean Meer 
 Church, which is large and handsome. The 
 service, mostly choral, was well performed. 
 
102 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 January 24th. — Andrew and I went by train 
 to Umritzur ; the Prince of Wales and suite, 
 with Sir Henry and Lady Davis, arrived there 
 soon after. They drove from the station in 
 many carriages, with an escort (the roads lined 
 by soldiers) to the Town Hall. 
 
 We breakfasted at one of the hotels ; then 
 drove to the city gates, left our carriage, and 
 walked along the very narrow streets. They 
 were smart and clean, extensively decorated in 
 native style with gold and silver tinsel, bright 
 colours. Cashmere shawls hung on the walls 
 of the houses, and stretched across the streets, 
 forming awnings here and there. The gutter 
 on each side was covered with wood and 
 strewn with flowers. In one bazaar there were 
 high things made of gold tinsel to imitate 
 trees. In fact, everything had been' done to 
 make Umritzur as festal as possible for the 
 Prince. Crowds of natives were walking 
 about. 
 
 At last we arrived near the celebrated 
 
UMEITZUB. 103 
 
 Golden Temple. Having had our boots 
 changed for slippers, we crossed the tank 
 called the Fountain of Immortality by a low 
 bridge. The temple stands on a small island 
 in the tank. The Chief Gruru of the Sikh 
 religion with a great number of priests live in 
 it. The dome and top part of the temple are 
 overlaid with gold ; the lower part is of white 
 marble richly inlaid with jpietre dure in various 
 patterns — flowers, animals, &c. It is decorated 
 in the same way inside. The most sacred 
 writings of the Sikh religion are under a 
 splendid canopy, and the high priest sat close 
 by, slowly moving a chowree to and fro. Num- 
 bers of attendant priests were around. The 
 usual wild music with tum-tums, stringed in- 
 struments, and nasal chaunt was going on in 
 the temple. Andrew threw a rupee on the 
 splendid carpet as an offering, and in return 
 the priests presented us with sweet biscuits. 
 As the natives entered the temple they bowed 
 to the very ground. There were numbers of 
 
104 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 them about. They did not appear best pleased 
 to see us. They looked very wild and fanatical. 
 We had a policeman with us besides our guide, 
 and there were also some other Europeans. 
 
 We ascended to the top of the temple. 
 There is a handsome modern clock-tower near 
 the tank, but it does not harmonise with its 
 near neighbour. We tried to buy some Eham- 
 pore Chuclda shawls, but the merchants were 
 all out enjoying the general holiday. 
 
 We returned to our gharee outside the city, 
 and drove about the fine" Rambagh Gardens, 
 gay with beds of flowers in full bloom, the 
 trees handsome. 
 
 At night we drove into the city to see the 
 illuminations — the whole place a blaze of light. 
 The Golden Temple was, of course, the chief 
 attraction. We had tickets for the top of a 
 house, from whence the Prince of Wales, Sir 
 Henry and Lady Davis, and party viewed the 
 brilliant spectacle. The Prince had a slightly 
 raised platform, but did not remain on it the 
 
UMEITZUE. 105 
 
 whole time. The temple was covered with 
 glass illuminations of all colours, that glittered 
 like jewels. Millions of twinkling lights shone 
 round the tank and followed the lines of ar- 
 chitecture in the towers and houses around. 
 Coloured lights were reflected in the water. 
 A floating garden and huge representations of 
 fish full of fire moved in the tank. Quantities 
 of fire-balloons went up — some in shapes of 
 people and animals. There were blue lights, 
 red lights, and yellow lights. The fireworks 
 were good. 
 
 The Prince and suite left for Agra ; then 
 Lady Davis invited me to sit by her on the 
 dais — she was very kind. We stayed long, 
 enjoying the lovely sight. 
 
 At last there was some difficulty about our 
 garee being allowed to go through the streets, 
 but Sir Henry and Lady Davis ordered that it 
 should go in the procession next to their own 
 carriage, to protect us. The station and roads 
 were all illuminated. 
 
106 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 "We returned by train to Meean Meer. 
 
 Next day we all went to the Lahore races, 
 given on a sandy plain at Anarkullee. The 
 grand stand was formed of a pyramid of earth 
 with a rail round the top — some chairs on it. 
 Mrs. Martin and I saw most of the races from 
 her carriage. The dust was truly frantic, 
 blown about by a high wind. Refreshments 
 were given by the Colonel of a regiment en- 
 camped near. There were many natives on 
 the race-course. The Nawab of Bhowalpore 
 ran some horses. 
 
 January 2Qth. — Andrew and I accompanied 
 Colonel Martin to Anarkullee. We visited the 
 Museum there, and were much delighted with 
 the curious specimens of native jewellery, cos- 
 tumes, embroidery, stuffed birds, snakes, and 
 cases of wonderful butterflies; some of them 
 were enormous. 
 
 After this, we all three mounted an elephant 
 and rode about the very picturesque old city 
 of Lahore. In some parts the street was so 
 
LAHOEE. 107 
 
 narrow that there was barely room for the 
 elephant to walk along. One poor bullock, 
 with a great load of bricks on his back, was so 
 frightened at our approach that he fell, and 
 the bricks showered off his back. I feared a 
 leg would be broken, but to my comfort he got 
 up and walked away. 
 
 We bought many things in the bazaars; 
 they were handed up to us on the elephant. \ 
 
 The houses are painted many colours ; very 
 gay they look. They have balconies, pent- 
 houses with latticed windows of carved wood. 
 We on the elephant were often on a line with 
 the second story of the houses. 
 
 We passed a very large mosque in the city. 
 Having seen all we wished inside, we went out- 
 side, and rode by the encampment of native 
 chiefs. The elephant carried us well, though 
 he was rather nervous, and shied sometimes. 
 Horses and elephants have a great dislike to 
 each other. 
 
 We all made an expedition to the jails at 
 
108 A PLEASUKE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Lahore ; there are two thousand men in two, 
 and two hundred women in a third. The men 
 are in two great central jails. There is a 
 tower in the middle of each, from whence all 
 the prisoners can be seen. We went up one of 
 these towers and saw the men in their yards, 
 some of them very evil-looking; also visited 
 that part where the prisoners were employed 
 making the most splendid carpets, of thick 
 pile; and durries, a kind of drugget. Their 
 dormitories have raised beds of hard earth or 
 stone, on which they have some bedding. The 
 solitary cells are nearly dark. One punish- 
 ment is to work a wheel. We were shown 
 the rods with which the refractory are flogged, 
 and the wooden thing to which they are 
 fastened for the performance. 
 
 We went a second day to the Lahore races, 
 and found better management. 
 
 January 28th. — We left our kind friends, 
 Colonel and Mrs. Stewart, and spent the day 
 at Umritzur, where we bought a good many 
 
MEERUT. 109 
 
 Rhampoor Chuddar shawls, had a fine view of 
 the Himalayas from the top of the hotel — a 
 grand range of peaks covered with snow — and 
 left soon after 8 p.m. for Meerut, where we 
 arrived by mail train about 10 o'clock next 
 morning. 
 
 We found Mr. Billings' carriage waiting for 
 us, also a ticker garee for our luggage. We 
 were driven to the house of Mr. and Mrs. 
 Billings, where we were most kindly received 
 by them. 
 
 After baths and breakfast, Andrew went 
 out after black buck, and I was taken driving 
 by Mr. and Mrs. Billings to the jails for men 
 and women, then to the city, and cantonments. 
 
 Meerut is a very pretty station, with many 
 good houses and trees. 
 
 I saw the manner of collecting ice. Millions 
 of earthen saucers are filled with water and 
 placed on straw. The water freezes in the 
 night. The ice is collected next morning, put 
 into a pit lined with straw matting, and 
 
110 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 pounded into a solid mass ; then kept for use 
 during the summer. This is done every- 
 where that frost occurs in India. 
 
 On Sunday we went twice to church. The 
 evening service we attended was that of the 
 Mission. Converted natives formed the choir ; 
 one played the harmonium. The service was 
 in English, as it is once a month; the clergy- 
 man a German — very interesting. 
 
 We were shown the house where Mr. and 
 Mrs. Billings with many others took refuge 
 during the Mutiny. 
 
 January 31st. — We all set off early, driving 
 to Sirdhana, the property of the late Begum, 
 but now belonging to Lady Forester from her 
 marriage with Mr. Dyce Sombre. Andrew 
 shot a wild goose en route. We saw a num- 
 berless flock of them on one piece of water. 
 The country was flat, but there was a pretty 
 bit by the side of a canal with wooded banks 
 just before we reached Sirdhana. 
 
 We saw a number of curious carts and car- 
 
SIEDHANA. Ill 
 
 riages belonging to a bridal party, going for 
 the bride. The procession had haLted for 
 rest. 
 
 Arrived at the lodge at Sirdhana, we found 
 a guard of soldiers, and at the Palace many de- 
 pendants spread out in a line to receive us, 
 making great salaams, — presenting flowers and 
 fruit. 
 
 The Palace is very large, of white stone, 
 with a grand flight of steps in front. The 
 reception-rooms are handsome. Many por- 
 traits on the walls, — of the little Begum, her 
 first communion after conversion to the Romish 
 faith ; Mr. Dyce Sombre, her adopted son ; 
 several of the Begum's generals ; and her 
 special priest. She had four husbands, but 
 no child. Her bath-rooms were pretty — the 
 walls of modelled plaister painted in various 
 colours, much looking-glass on the walls, the 
 floors white marble. There were three small 
 rooms — one for the hot bath, two others for 
 cooling, with recesses for lying down. 
 
112 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 The gardens are extensive and full of divers 
 fruit-trees. 
 
 We had dejeuner a la fourchette; also tea 
 before we left. 
 
 "We drove on to the Roman Catholic College, 
 where we saw many converted native boys. 
 Father Mary Angelo, a most jovial old priest, 
 and a younger brother, showed us the College 
 and the various trades they teach the native 
 men and boys — weaving, making carriages, 
 and maccaroni, book-binding, &c. They have 
 a blacksmith's shop. The boys were proud to 
 show their writing on slates. Some sang to 
 us a chaunt, also " Malbrook s'en va-t- en 
 guerre," the old priest shaking with laughter. 
 
 We went on to the Romish Cathedral built 
 by the Begum, and saw the grand marble 
 monument to her, she sitting at the top in her 
 dancing-girl costume. She must have been 
 plain, with a large nose, and very mascu- 
 line-looking. There were many other full- 
 sized statues, Mr. Dyce Sombre being one. 
 
SIEDHANA. 113 
 
 There were also bas-reliefs of the Begum's 
 great doings — she, on an elephant, going to 
 battle, &c. The church plate very handsome. 
 
 The beautiful monument in the Cathedral at 
 Sirdhana was executed by Tadolini, at Eome, 
 and was erected to the memory of Her High- 
 ness the Begum Sombre by Mr. Dyce Sombre, 
 who, by his own desire, was buried at the foot. 
 In the Christian cemetery at Sirdhana are 
 tombs to many of the Begum's European 
 officers, some of whom lived to a great age, 
 one attaining to one hundred and eight years. 
 
 Her Highness the Begum had also fine 
 palaces at Meerut and Delhi, but they were 
 destroyed at the time of the Mutiny. "While 
 these horrors were going on, the natives in 
 the employ of Mr. Dyce Sombre, at Sirdhana, 
 swore they would die in the ruiDS sooner than 
 yield the Palace. They had no European to 
 guard them. They took the papers they sup- 
 posed to be of value, and had them deposited in 
 the cantonment at Meerut. They asked for a 
 
 8 
 
114 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 detachment of troops to defend the Palace and 
 Cathedral; this was allowed, and for several 
 months they kept the robber chief Lall Mull, 
 and his followers, at bay, remaining up night 
 and day, firing small cannon to show they were 
 on the alert. At length they made a sortie, and 
 killed Lall Mull and many of his followers, 
 who had pillaged and destroyed much property 
 in the town of Sirdhana. But the Palace and 
 Cathedral remained intact, and, to the credit 
 of the poor natives who defended them, not a 
 rupee was missing from the treasury. For 
 their loyalty, when the Government issued the 
 order for disarmament, they were permitted to 
 retain their arms ; and, also, Mrs. Dyce Sombre, 
 now Lady Forester, gave them all a year's 
 pay. She says, "After this, who shall say 
 that the native is insensible to kindness and 
 justice ? " 
 
 Lady Forester is about building a hospital 
 for the sick at Sirdhana and in the neighbour- 
 hood. She maintains the Palace and property, 
 
SIEDHANA. 115 
 
 out of respect to Her Highness the Begum 
 and Mr. Dyce Sombre. All is in beautiful 
 order. 
 
 The jovial old monk took us into the adjoin- 
 ing convent, where we saw two French nuns 
 and one English, and some lay sisters, with 
 a good many native girls in their school. 
 
 Extremely hot. 
 
 We drove back to Meerut in the evening. 
 
 Next morning a good many horses were 
 brought for Mr. Billings to look at, attended 
 by wild-looking men, with long black hair, 
 from Kaubul. One of them had a splendid 
 white cat with very thick hair of great length. 
 These horse-dealers often have Persian cats 
 for sale. 
 
 Mrs. Billings took me to call on the widow 
 of Major Skinner (of Skinner's Horse), a fine 
 old Cashmere lady. She must have been very 
 handsome. She gave us sweetmeats, and pan, 
 which consists of cardamums and many spicy 
 things wrapped up in a green betel-leaf. Her 
 
 8 * 
 
116 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 grandson interpreted, as she did not speak 
 English. 
 
 Mrs. Billings had a badminton this evening. 
 This game seems the favourite one in India. 
 
 Rather cloudy ; a little rain for a few 
 minutes. 
 
 We left by mail train at night for Agra, 
 where we arrived the following morning early, 
 and established ourselves once more at Har- 
 rison's Hotel. 
 
 We called on Lord Suffield at the Prince's 
 camp. He kindly promised to arrange with 
 Mr. Lyall that we should be of the Prince's 
 party at Jeypore. 
 
 The Prince of Wales has a splendid encamp- 
 ment at Agra — quite a village of tents. The 
 native Rajahs have encampments outside. We 
 visited the Fort again with its beautiful 
 palaces. Saw how the Dewan-i-Am had been 
 converted into a ball-room, and the Dewan-i- 
 Khas into a supper-room, at the grand ball 
 given to our Prince. We were invited to it, 
 
AGEA. 117 
 
 but did not arrive in time, having other things 
 to do. 
 
 We crossed the river by the bridge of boats, 
 and saw the beautiful tomb of Itmad-vod- 
 Dowlah. It stands in a lovely garden adorned 
 with cypress-shrubs and flowers. The tomb 
 is built of white marble, inlaid outside with 
 coloured stones in arabesques and flowers. 
 There are kiosques at the four corners, and in 
 the middle a pavilion of daintily pierced work, 
 covered with an oblong dome which is capped 
 by two pinnacles. The flower hall contains 
 the tombs of the Prince Itmad and his wife. 
 There are also cenotaphs in the pavilion at the 
 top, to which we ascended, and saw the fine 
 pierced marble screens. 
 
 We visited the jail at Agra, which is a very 
 large one. Dr. Tyler, the Governor, showed 
 us round. The prisoners were making carpets, 
 cloth, and carding wool by machinery — the 
 wheel, of four-horse power, being worked by 
 forty- eight men going round and round in 
 
118 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 rows, looking like the spokes of a wheel. Dr. 
 Tyler showed us a Thug, one of those wretches 
 who strangled people wholesale. He had been 
 there more than thirty years. There were 
 numbers of, prisoners for life. In the boys' 
 department were some confined for murder, 
 one of these being quite a small urchin. 
 
 "We drove on to Secundra, where we saw 
 the magnificent tomb of the Emperor Ukbur. 
 Under a fine gateway we passed into a garden, 
 at the end of which is a five- storied building, 
 the highest one being of white marble, with 
 exquisite pierced marble screens around, each a 
 different design. This part is crowned by 
 four small kiosques. The cenotaph, in the 
 centre of this top story, is covered with railed 
 characters; ninety-nine titles of the Creator 
 are said to be inscribed on it. The top of the 
 mausoleum is open to the sky ; there is a fine 
 view from it of the country — Agra, the White 
 Taj Mahal, Fort, river Jumna, &c. The Em- 
 peror lies in a vault below the floor of the 
 
AGEA. 119 
 
 building. The four lower stories are of red 
 sandstone. All these great mausoleums have 
 four gateways and approaches. 
 
 Having heard from Mr. Lyall that we were 
 included in the Prince's Jeypore party, and 
 that all would be ready for our reception there, 
 we left, soon after 9 o'clock atj night, in the 
 special train. Mr. O'Oallaghan kindly fur- 
 nished us with a reserved carriage, so we were 
 comfortable. 
 
120 A PLEASURE TE1P TO INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 JEYPOEE. AEEIVAL OF H.E.H. THE PEINCE OF 
 
 WALES. PIG- STICKING. ILLUMINATIONS. 
 
 GEEAT DINNER AT THE PALACE. DUEBAE. 
 
 NAUTCHES. LUNCHEON AT AMBAIE. MOHA- 
 
 EUM. PALACE AT JETPOEE. TIGEES. P.HUET- 
 
 POEE. DEEG. PUTTEHPOEE SIKEI. 
 
 February 4th. — We arrived at Jeypore about 9 
 o'clock this morning, and at the station found 
 one of the Maharajah's carriages, -with a pair 
 of horses, waiting for us, and a bullock-cart for 
 the luggage. We were driven by our black 
 coachman to the Residency, a lovely building, 
 once the Queen's Dower Palace — now occupied 
 
JEYPORE. 121 
 
 by Colonel Beynon, the Political Agent, and all 
 ready for the Prince of Wales and his suite. 
 We saw the rooms — everything new and hand- 
 some — all paid for by the Maharajah of Jey- 
 pore ; in fact, he entirely entertains the Prince 
 and the guests, ourselves included. 
 
 The gardens at the Residency are lovely, 
 well laid out, the trees and flowers charming. 
 The gateway is very handsome. 
 
 We had tiffin at the Residency ; then took 
 possession of two excellent new tents, well fur- 
 nished in every way. Mr. and Mrs. Lyall have 
 tents opposite. Mr., Mrs., and pretty Miss 
 Edwards, of Agra, with a good many other 
 ladies and gentlemen, are amongst the guests 
 — some are in tents near the Residency. 
 
 This afternoon we all drove into the city of 
 Jeypore, and sat on the top of a house in one 
 of the principal squares, to see the entree of 
 the Prince of Wales. It was about two miles 
 from our tents to the city. The road was 
 lined on each side by picturesque - looking 
 
122 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 soldiers, dressed in different colours, having 
 all kinds of rifles and guns, some long, others 
 short. There were cavalry and infantry. The 
 streets also were lined by soldiers, some of 
 them most grotesque — a motley crew. 
 Crowds of natives about, and at the lattices, 
 dressed in the most brilliant and varied colours, 
 much more Oriental than anything we have 
 seen. 
 
 Jeypore is a native state, and unless we had 
 been invited to join the Prince's party we 
 could not have been here, as we should have 
 found no accommodation in any way. The 
 present city of Jeypore is new ; the streets are 
 wide; the houses handsome, two stories high, 
 the upper stories having pierced stone or 
 plaister windows, so that the women should 
 not be seen. The houses are painted pink, 
 picked out with white, and have a confec- 
 tionery look. The upper stories have balconies 
 and pent-houses. There was a temple near 
 the house where we sat; the steps up to it 
 
JEYPOEE. 123 
 
 were crowded by natives in brilliant colours, 
 looking like an autumn garden. Natives on 
 the house-tops and in every available place — a 
 wonderful sight. In no other town have we 
 seen such brilliant colouring. 
 
 We waited long, but not wearily, for there 
 was always something fresh to see — camels, 
 cavalry, and some amusing performances by 
 men of the wild tribe called Nagas. They 
 went through various warlike games, two at 
 once, with swords and shields, or without the 
 latter. It was most amusing to see them skip 
 round each [other, jumping high into the air. 
 They were very light and active, profoundly 
 dark men. Their costume consisted of a cloth 
 round the loins, feathers and ornaments on 
 their heads. Sometimes one Naga whisked a 
 sword about in all directions, going through 
 a pantomime of attacking and killing his enemy. 
 
 In no city have we seen such a gaily dressed 
 crowd as in Jeypore — such wonderful colours, 
 and so varied. 
 
124 A PLEASTJEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Day was declining when the Prince came ; 
 the magnificent procession lost something for 
 lack of bright sunshine. However, perhaps 
 it gained more in another way, as it was lighted 
 up by a double row of torches flaming on each 
 side, and so presented a most splendid pageant. 
 There were a great many elephants gorgeously 
 caparisoned ; the one ridden by the Prince of 
 Wales and Maharajah of Jeypore was a grand 
 beast, the howdah and trappings of gold. The 
 Prince's suite were also on elephants, each 
 accompanied by a native grandee in brilliant 
 attire. In the procession were camels, ar- 
 tillery guns drawn by oxen, and soldiers on 
 horseback. Before the Prince, Nagas per- 
 formed their sword-tricks, danced and pranced 
 about. They looked weird and wild. A 
 brilliant light from a tower added much to the 
 general effect. 
 
 We arrived at the Residency in time to see 
 the Prince, accompanied by the Maharajah, 
 drive into the prettily illuminated gardens. 
 
JEYPOEE. 125 
 
 The carriage, an open one, was lined with 
 satin and gold ; the head (thrown back) being 
 covered with purple velvet embroidered with 
 gold. A Rajah (whose name I forget) followed 
 in a most qnaint native carriage ; it was very 
 long, and was drawn by six white horses. 
 
 We guests all dined in a large tent (Shemi- 
 ana) ; the Prince at the Residency, in private, 
 with his suite. 
 
 Next morning we went, a party in carriages, 
 about four miles into the country. Then we 
 mounted elephants, and rode into the jungle to 
 see pig-sticking by the Prince's suite. He him- 
 self had gone after a tiger. "We saw the hunters 
 galloping full tear after a fat wild boar, stab- 
 bing him with long spears. Poor beast ! he 
 ran slower and slower, till at last he lay down 
 and resigned his life. I was so sorry for him 
 — he was too fat for such violent exercise. 
 The Maharajah had been feeding the wild pigs 
 for some time, so as to have plenty of sport 
 for the Royal party. We saw many more — 
 
126 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 some tiny, one huge — but I am glad to say we 
 came in for no more deaths, though many took 
 place. 
 
 We lunched in a building near the jungle, 
 with Lord Suffield, General Probyn, and party. 
 The sun extremely hot. 
 
 At night we were driven (full dress), in an 
 open carriage, through the city of Jeypore to 
 see the illuminations. They were splendid — 
 the temples, houses, streets, triumphal arches, 
 being all lighted up ; also the Fort ; and on 
 the Rock, " "Welcome here," in fiery letters said 
 to be fifty feet high. At last we turned into 
 the yard of the Maharajah's Palace, the arches 
 being illuminated in various colours, our Royal 
 Arms placed conspicuously. The Palace, an 
 immense building, was a blaze of light inside 
 and out. Our carriage, coachman", &c, be- 
 longed to His Highness, and I was thankful to 
 find myself safe inside the Palace, for the 
 driving was most reckless. 
 
 Andrew and I entered the Palace, and walked 
 
JEYPOEE. 127 
 
 through several grand rooms till we arrived 
 in a very splendid large hall brilliantly lighted, 
 a guard of picturesque soldiers there. At the 
 upper end of this hall was a raised dais ; on it 
 two grand chairs with a rich canopy over them. 
 On either side of this were rows of chairs, 
 occupied by Rajahs gorgeous in jewels and 
 bright colours. We passed through this hall, 
 and joined the rest of our European party up- 
 stairs in a kind of balcony, from whence we 
 looked down and saw all that took place. 
 
 About 8 o'clock the Prince of Wales drove 
 into this durbar hall ; then he and the Maha- 
 rajah of Jeypore walked up the avenue of 
 brilliantly dressed chiefs, and took their places 
 on the chairs of state. The Prince sat on the 
 right of His Highness, and the suite occupied 
 chairs on the right of our Prince. Some of 
 the chiefs were presented to him. Each made 
 salaam, and placed his hand on that of the 
 Prince. 
 
 Afterwards a grand nautch took place, with 
 
128 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 the usual native music. There were a number 
 of dancing-girls splendidly dressed in bright 
 colours. They wore a mass of ornaments, 
 very full long petticoats, and scarves over their 
 heads. They danced a good deal, turning 
 round and moving their arms about. One, 
 very fat, in a striped dress of many colours, 
 was most active, turning round one way very 
 energetically, then whisking back the other. 
 
 The banquet took place in another grand 
 hall. The Prince took in Mrs. Lyall. Canon 
 Duckworth was my cavalier ; he gave me the 
 native necklace of flowers presented to him as 
 a mark of distinction before dinner. The 
 Prince and all his suite had these necklaces. 
 
 The Maharajah joined the party at dessert. 
 He sat by the Prince, and proposed the healths 
 of the Queen and Prince. His Royal High- 
 ness returned thanks, gave the health of the 
 Maharajah, and said how pleased he was to 
 have killed his first tiger that day. 
 
 The dinner was quite European, and coffee 
 
JETPOEE. 1 29 
 
 was served in the drawing-room, where we 
 repaired in due course, passing on our way- 
 through lovely rooms paved with marble, 
 the floors partly covered with handsome old 
 Persian carpets. Some of these rooms being 
 open to the Palace gardens, we could see the 
 illuminations there. 
 
 The drawing-room was furnished in Euro- 
 pean style ; on one table were large books, 
 given to the Maharajah, at Calcutta, by our 
 Prince, and written in by him. This room ad- 
 joined an open court. Soon the dancing-girls 
 came there, and performed more than before, 
 twisting about all together, their anklets and 
 toe-rings making a great jingle. This nautch 
 was specially picturesque, as it took place by 
 torchlight. 
 
 The next entertainment consisted in a na- 
 tive playing wild music on basins of various 
 sizes, filled more or less with water. He was 
 accompanied by tum-tums and stringed in- 
 struments. 
 
 9 
 
130 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 All the rooms, with the exception of one, 
 were truly Oriental, and the whole Palace was 
 a blaze of light. 
 
 The Maharajah was outside when we left, 
 seeing his guests off. He shook hands with 
 us. He is a most enlightened prince, and does 
 wonders for his dominion and people. 
 
 On Sunday we went to divine service in a 
 room. Canon Duckworth preached admirably. 
 We met the Prince at a grand luncheon in 
 the old Palace at Ambair, the ancient capital 
 of Jeypore. We drove in carriages to the foot 
 of a long hill ; there we found elephants and 
 jhampans waiting to take up the party to 
 Ambair. Andrew mounted an elephant with 
 another gentleman. I went in a jhampan, a 
 kind of open sedan chair with a capote, car- 
 ried by four men. They jogged along at a 
 great pace, and soon left the elephant behind. 
 They ultimately landed me in the grand court- 
 yard, where I got out and walked into the 
 Palace, where some of our friends had arrived. 
 
AMBAIR. 131 
 
 Andrew appeared some time after, having seen 
 something of the ruined town. 
 
 We, with Mr. O'Callaghan, proceeded to look 
 over the Palace. The Durbar Hall is magni- 
 ficent. The pillars, of finely executed Jain 
 stone carving, are, unfortunately, covered with 
 plaister. This was done to deceive a King of 
 Delhi, who, on hearing this Durbar Hall was 
 more beautiful than his own, determined to de- 
 stroy it. However, finding the plain-looking 
 pillars, he left it in peace, and so it remains, 
 with the exception of a portion of one column 
 where the plaister has been picked off to show 
 the fine carving underneath. This hall is open 
 on three sides. The view from it is most 
 beautiful — of the old town of Ambair, with its 
 temples, surrounded by hills of picturesque 
 forms crowned with fortifications. 
 
 The rooms in one portion of the Palace have 
 the Walls and ceilings covered with bits of 
 looking-glass, of different bright colours, ar- 
 ranged in various patterns. On the marble 
 
 9 * 
 
132 A PLEASUKE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 floors are beautiful old Persian carpets. One 
 room in this Sheesh Mahal was arranged for 
 the Prince of Wales to wash — scent and po- 
 made on the dressing-table. 
 
 We next went into the zenana part of the 
 Palace. I pity the ladies who were shut up 
 in those numberless small rooms and high- 
 walled passages. 
 
 We returned to the grand Dewan-i-Khas in 
 time to see the Prince of Wales arrive. He 
 was carried in a decorated jhampan. We all 
 sat down at once to eat a very handsome 
 luncheon, provided by the Maharajah. 
 
 After the feast some wild-looking men with 
 long hair performed athletic tricks, vaulting 
 over two camels, dancing and jumping on a 
 rope, &c. This took place in the courtyard, 
 where were many elephants, camels, jhampans, 
 with their bearers, and many other natives, — a 
 truly Oriental and picturesque sight. 
 
 The Prince seemed much amused, and our 
 glass was borrowed for him to watch the games. 
 
JEYPOEE. ] 33 
 
 An elephant carried Andrew and me, with 
 two other gentlemen, to the foot of the hill, 
 from whence we drove into Jeypore, passing 
 again the many fine ruins we had seen this 
 morning. 
 
 We drove through the public gardens at 
 Jeypore. They are new, but handsome, having 
 flowers and an aviary. 
 
 People were leaving from seeing our Prince 
 lay the first stone of a building to be called the 
 Albert Hall. The Maharajah of Jeypore and 
 other native grandees were there. A jet d'eau 
 was playing a ball up and down. 
 
 The weather, night and day, is bright and 
 lovely. 
 
 February 7th. — This being the last day of 
 the great Mohamedan Feast (the Moharam) we 
 drove into the city, where we saw a very long 
 procession of tazias. They are frame- works of 
 wood and tinsel, supposed to represent the 
 tomb of Hosen at Karbala in Turkish Arabia. 
 They came in detachments, several together, 
 
134 A PLEASTJKE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 accompanied by barbaric music, armed men, 
 and sometimes elephants. The tazias were 
 stopped here and there for people to place gifts 
 on them — flowers, paper lamps that had as- 
 sisted at the illuminations, and anything they 
 chose. We watched the procession pass. There 
 seemed no end of it. Crowds of natives, dressed 
 in the most brilliant and varied colours, ac- 
 companied it into the country outside the town, 
 where the symbolical sepulture of the tazias 
 was to take place. 
 
 The Moharam is a celebration of the mar- 
 tyrdom of the sons of Ali, the immediate 
 descendants of the Prophet, who were put to 
 death by rival claimants to the headship of 
 Islam. 
 
 Though Jeypore is a Hindoo city, there must 
 be numbers of Moslems here. 
 
 The Hindoo women wear petticoats ; the 
 Mohamedans rather tight trowsers, with scarves 
 of brilliantly- coloured muslin over their heads 
 and bodies ; many bracelets of glass, silver, or 
 
JETPOEE. 135 
 
 lead, reaching nearly to the elbow, with an 
 armlet above ; ear-rings all round the ears, 
 seven, ten, or more ; large anklets of silver or 
 lead ; toe-rings that jingle as they shuffle 
 along, their feet bare, of course. Sometimes 
 the men wear one silver bracelet and silver 
 rings. 
 
 The Palace of the Maharajah is a huge build- 
 ing half a mile long, eight stories high, with 
 cupolas at the corners, and numberless courts, 
 galleries, marble audience-chambers, terraces 
 and gardens. One white marble pavilion is 
 lined with bits of looking-glass of different 
 colours, arranged in patterns. The ladies' 
 quarters are large ; we were told they con- 
 tain four thousand women. 
 
 The Palace gardens are lovely. All the 
 fountains were playing to-day, on account of 
 the Moharam — myriads of jets d'eau squirting 
 and spitting at each other. 
 
 The Maharajah's stables are immense, full 
 of horses, some very handsome. Most of them 
 
136 A PLBASUEB TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 were fastened by ropes attached to all four 
 legs, some only by the two hind-legs. 
 
 In one part of Jeypore we saw seven huge 
 tigers in cages, some very fierce ; they gnashed 
 their teeth and roared when their keepers made 
 a noise at them. 
 
 I have omitted to say that this morning we 
 went to the private station of the Residency, 
 and saw the Prince of Wales and his suite 
 leave in his special train. All walked, the 
 station being so near. The Maharajah ac- 
 companied our Prince. Soldiers lined the 
 road. 
 
 The weather is splendid, one day more bril- 
 liant than the other — the nights to match. 
 
 February 8th. — We arrived at Bhurtpore at; 
 5.30 this morning, having left Jeypore lass 
 night. We found two carriages waiting for 
 us, and a letter from the Resident, Colonel 
 Wright. We were driven to his house, had 
 tea, and went to bed for a couple of hours. 
 While dressing, we saw the Maharajah of 
 
BHUETPOEE. 137 
 
 Bhurtpore and Mr. Lyall drive away, having 
 a guard of soldiers. 
 
 Colonel and Mrs. "Wright received us most 
 kindly ; they sent us in their carriage, with a 
 guide, to see the city of Bhurtpore. The 
 Palace is mostly furnished in European style ; 
 but the silk and gold curtains from Benares, of 
 kincob-work, are splendid. There is some 
 fine carving on a summer-house in the Fort. 
 A wide moat surrounds the city. We drove 
 through the native bazaars and bought toe- 
 rings. The carving on stone very fine on 
 one of the Hindoo temples. We asked for 
 the idol, and were told he was eating. Our 
 Mohamedan guide said, " That very bad ; God 
 does not eat." 
 
 After tiffin, Andrew went out shooting. 
 Mrs. Wright took me driving in the forest, 
 where we saw a good many wild boars. 
 
 Next day Colonel Wright sent us, in one 
 of the Maharajah's carriages, to Deeg. We 
 changed horses at Khoombher, and walked up 
 
138 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 to the old fortified palace there ; many courts, 
 numerous rooms for the ladies, a small temple 
 for them, the stone screens in part of the 
 zenana pierced so that the women could look 
 up, but not down. 
 
 As we drove on, we saw gum-arabic trees 
 and tamarisks growing by the road-side, the 
 soil being very dry. Black buck and pea-fowl 
 were on the dry grass. "We passed men on 
 foot and horseback, with dark-green coats of 
 quilted cotton — often they had matchlocks ; 
 women much decorated with ornaments ; and 
 carts drawn by bullocks. The country ex- 
 tremely flat. 
 
 Arrived at Deeg, we drove to the Palace of 
 Sooruj Mull, which consists of an enormous 
 quadrangle of houses built of coloured stone 
 elaborately carved, all in splendid repair. One 
 of them, the Sooruj Bhuwan, is of white marble 
 inlaid with jpietre dure in designs of flowers, 
 butterflies, and birds. There are four prin- 
 cipal buildings. The cornices of these garden- 
 
DEEG. 139 
 
 palaces are principally double. This style is 
 quite peculiar to Deeg, and for beauty is said 
 to be unsurpassed in India. One of the pa- 
 laces used to be for the zenana. The gar- 
 dens are large, and well stocked with fruit and 
 other trees. The plantains are very fine. 
 There is a large reservoir with bathing-ghats. 
 
 In the palace called Ghopal Bhuwum we had 
 luncheon (provided at the Maharajah's ex- 
 pense). He kindly places this building at the 
 disposal of travellers to eat and sleep. 
 
 We saw two men flogged outside the garden, 
 tied to a tree, one at a time, and beaten with 
 a long cane. The first howled terribly; the 
 other said nothing. 
 
 There are remains of a large fort at Deeg, 
 with a moat running round it. 
 
 We returned to Colonel Wright's in time for 
 dinner. 
 
 February 10th. — Andrew went out shooting, 
 this morning, and killed a black buck. 
 
 After tiffin, Andrew and I, in one of the 
 
140 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 carriages belonging to the Maharajah of Bhurt- 
 pore, ordered for us by Colonel Wright, set off 
 for Futtehpore Sikri, fourteen miles. We 
 started with a capital pair of mules, which we 
 changed half-way for horses. Arrived at our 
 destination, we put up in a room of the old 
 palace, now used as a dak bungalow. 
 
 Soon after, we started, with a guide of much 
 intelligence (a descendant of the great Sheikh 
 Suleem Chishtee), to see as much as possible 
 before dark. We began with the fine Mosque 
 built by Ukbur. The great gateway is a 
 striking object, so enormous that it even di- 
 minishes the size of the Mosque. The wings 
 of the latter are of red stone. The centre is 
 paved with white marble ; the walls painted in 
 colours. The glory of the court is the white 
 marble mausoleum of the Saint Sheikh Suleem 
 Chishtee. It has a beautiful deep drip-stone 
 all round, supported by brackets exquisitely 
 carved. The screens round the inner chamber 
 are of the very finest work, pierced in white 
 
FUTTEHPOEE SIKEI. 141 
 
 marble, like lace. The building outside looks 
 like a temple of carved ivory. The tomb of 
 the saint is inside, and over it a thing like a 
 four-post bedstead, inlaid with mother-of-pearl 
 work. Behind the Mosque we were shown a 
 small tomb said to contain the remains of the 
 Saint's child, who gave up his life at a minute's 
 notice in order that King Ukbur might have 
 a son ! So runs the legend, 
 
 We went over the Mosque and Palace by 
 moonlight, when the white marble tomb of 
 Suleem looked wonderfully beautiful. 
 
 We were up early next morning. Escorted 
 by our guide, we examined all the remains of 
 Ukbur' s once splendid Palace : saw the se- 
 parate houses of his Christian, Hindoo, and 
 Turkish wives. On the walls of the Christian 
 wife's house were frescoes, one supposed to 
 have represented the Annunciation — all much 
 destroyed. The carvings on the inside walls of 
 the Turkish wife's house are very fine, one 
 panel representing a forest scene in the Hima- 
 
142 A PLEASUEB TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 layas, with pheasants, tigers, &c. The out- 
 side pillars have trees and flowers carved on 
 them. The house of the Hindoo wife, who 
 was Empress par excellence, has the ceilings 
 of two rooms covered with bright blue 
 enamel. 
 
 Beerbul's house is a two-storied building of 
 red sandstone, covered inside with the most 
 minute carving in stone on the walls and 
 ceilings. Beerbul was one of Ukbur's grandees. 
 
 The Khas Muhul is a large courtyard ; 
 most of the buildings open into it. One of 
 them is surmounted by a small simple room, 
 which was Ukbur's sleeping-apartment. On 
 the pavement of the Khas Muhul is a puchese- 
 board marked for that game. 
 
 In the Aukle Michaulee, Ukbur played at 
 " hide and seek " with his ladies. 
 
 The carved pillars in the Dewan-i-Khas are 
 very magnificent. 
 
 Some distance from the Palace stands a 
 tower studded with imitations of elephants' 
 
FUTTEHPOBE STKEI. 143 
 
 tusks. Here Ukbur placed himself and shot 
 gazelles. 
 
 We saw the Native Boys' School. Several 
 young natives rushed out with their books, and 
 began reading Hindustani to me. 
 
 The great stables that Ukbur had for his 
 elephants, horses, and camels are well worth 
 seeing. 
 
 The position of Futtehpore Sikri on a high 
 hill is very imposing. The huge gate of the 
 Mosque is to be seen far away. Ukbur left 
 the city, as the water-supply was so bad. 
 
 "We drove back to Bhurtpore as we went ; 
 had luncheon with Colonel and Mrs. Wright, 
 and proceeded by train to Agra, where Mr. 
 O'Callaghan met us and took us to stay 
 at his house. Mr. Rutherford lives with 
 him, and we found Mr. Wheeler staying with 
 them. 
 
 The women at Bhurtpore wear numerous 
 ornaments of silver — supposing they can afford 
 it, otherwise of lead — ear-rings, bracelets up 
 
144 A PLBA.SU RE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 as high, as their elbows, armlets above, neck- 
 laces, toe-rings, and anklets that jingle as they 
 shuffle along. 
 
145 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 AGRA. NTNEE TAL. LUCKNOW. CAWNPORE. 
 
 BENARES. JOURNEY TO DARJEEL1NG. TEA 
 
 GARDEN. VALLEY OF THE TEESTAH. RETURN 
 
 TO CALCUTTA. 
 
 We enjoyed our visit to Mr. O'Callaghan 
 much. Andrew went out into the country 
 and shot black buck. I visited the old city 
 of Agra ; also the Taj, again by moonlight. 
 
 We attended divine service in the English 
 Church. The choir and organ were good. 
 The Bishop's chaplain preached admirably. 
 
 One day Mr. Rutherford, Mr. Wheeler, and 
 Andrew went by train beyond Bhurtpore. 
 They returned at night with four black buck, 
 
 10 
 
146 A PLBASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 shot by Andrew. Mr. Rutherford, who is a 
 capital shot, gave up his chances to his friends 
 most kindly. 
 
 Mr. O'Oallaghan drove me in his buggy 
 about the Cantonment. An excellent military 
 band was playing. 
 
 February 15th. — We left our kind friends, 
 and once more set off on our travels by the 
 10.30 a.m. train from Agra. It was past midnight 
 when we reached Moradabad. An hour later, 
 we started in a dak gharee for Kaladoongee. 
 We made our bed in the carriage, lay down 
 full length, and slept as much as we could ; but 
 we were often disturbed by changing horses, 
 and crossing two bridges. Oxen dragged us 
 over one of them. 
 
 Strange to say, it rained when we left 
 Moradabad, but it did not last long. The 
 first rain we have had in India, with the ex- 
 ception of three drops in Delhi, which I 
 rushed out with joy to see. 
 
 Having driven till 9.30 a.m., we found our- 
 
KALADOONGEE NTNEE TAL. 147 
 
 selves at Kaladoongee. After baths and 
 breakfast at the dak bungalow, we proceeded 
 up the mountains to Nynee Tal. Andrew and 
 Fackeera rode ponies. As there was no side- 
 saddle I was carried in a Dandi — a thing like 
 a hammock on a long pole. I sat in the middle 
 of it, so progressed sideways. Six coolies car- 
 ried me — two at a time ; they changed con- 
 stantly, without stopping. Our bedding and 
 luggage were carried by coolies. 
 
 The scenery was lovely — fine trees, creepers 
 with large round leaves hanging in festoons on 
 them ; some orchids on the trees, but not in 
 bloom ; tree-ferns here and there, with many 
 pretty flowers. The view over the plain was grand 
 as we ascended. We turned and twisted along 
 a narrow path which was in parts very steep, 
 and were glad to walk ourselves sometimes. 
 We stopped a short time for shelter in a fine 
 gorge, as a storm of hail and rain came on. 
 
 We reached INynee Tal about 5 p.m., left our 
 property at the dak bungalow, and sallied 
 
 10 .* 
 
148 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 forth to see the place ; passed by the house where 
 the Prince of Wales had luncheon here, and on 
 to the " snow seat," from whence we saw the 
 snowy range. The ascent to it is very steep. 
 We had a fine view of many ranges of moun- 
 tains, but only a glimpse of the snowy ones. 
 With clouds above and below them, they looked 
 most mysterious. 
 
 Returning, we saw the Lieutenant-Governor's 
 bungalow and two hotels, one of them being 
 very large. There are numerous bungalows 
 dotted about the hills that surround the lake. 
 A club-house, and two small Hindoo temples 
 with hideous idols, we saw near the water. The 
 weeping willows with their fresh green leaves, 
 also fruit-trees with pink and white blossoms, 
 were lovely. There is a good carriage-drive 
 round the pretty lake. 
 
 I was truly enchanted to see the grand 
 rhododendrons on the high hills — perfect forest 
 trees, having thick trunks, and such splendid 
 deep-red blossoms ! 
 
NYNEE TAL. 149 
 
 The butterflies are very beautiful — some of 
 great size. 
 
 We walked through the bazaar of the small 
 town, but there was nothing to buy. 
 
 Next morning we were up early, and rode 
 ponies to the top of a great mountain Cheenie, 
 by a long winding ascent, very steep in parts, 
 but the most glorious view from the summit 
 that I have ever seen of the kind. Close to us 
 many grand scarlet rhododendrons in full 
 bloom ; then an immense foreground of green 
 and desert hills, bounded by a long range of 
 most magnificent snow mountains, as clear as 
 possible, cut out sharply against the sky, 
 Nanda Devi, twenty- five thousand seven hun- 
 dred and forty-nine feet high, forming the 
 centre. Though they were eighty or one 
 hundred miles from us, they appeared quite 
 near, but so high in the air — perfectly stupen- 
 dous ! 
 
 Frosty this morning, the path slippery in 
 parts. 
 
150 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 There were wild monkeys, with white whis- 
 kers, jumping about the trees near Nynee Tal. 
 
 We left again this afternoon, and reached 
 Moradabad, by special dak from Kaladoongee, 
 about 5 o'clock next morning. 
 
 February 18th. — After rest and washing, we 
 started by train, 7.20 a.m., for Lucknow, where 
 we arrived at midnight, and drove to Hill's 
 Hotel. The train took its time terribly. The 
 country was mostly flat and dreary. 
 
 We remained at Lucknow till the 22nd. We 
 spent some time at the Residency — in ruins 
 from the fighting at the time of the Mutiny. 
 It is well kept, and each spot of interest is 
 marked by a board having the name on it ; as, 
 "Dr. Fayrer's house," in the underground 
 rooms of which the ladies lived; the "Room 
 where Sir Henry Lawrence was struck by a 
 shell," &c. 
 
 The gardens were gay with roses, masses of 
 bourgan villas, and other flowers. 
 
 We saw many public buildings at Lucknow. 
 
LUOKNOW. 151 
 
 The Chuttar Manzil, so called from the gilt 
 umbrella that crowns the summit. The Lall 
 Baradari was once the Westminster Hall 
 of Oude, and a handsome hall is still used for 
 durbars. 
 
 The gardens in Wingfield Park are well laid 
 out, and there are lovely roses of many kinds. 
 The Marechale Niels were wonderful, so large, 
 and such a fine yellow ! At Sikandar Bagh 
 two thousand rebels were killed. 
 
 There are some fine bridges over the river. 
 People were busy washing ; banging the 
 clothes about in their usual unmerciful way. 
 
 The interior of the tomb of the first King 
 of Oude is decorated with many glass chan- 
 deliers and some curious paintings. We saw 
 the tombs of the father and mother of this 
 same king. 
 
 The Kaiser Bagh is an enormous palace, with 
 gardens. 
 
 Lucknow is quite a city of palaces, grand to 
 look at as an ensemble, but not one to compare 
 
152 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 with those at Delhi or Agra. The numbers 
 of trees are a great decoration to Lucknow. 
 
 The great Imambara is an enormous hall, 
 built throughout of masonry without the aid of 
 woodwork. It is now used for military stores, 
 but belonged originally to the Mahomedans, 
 who used it for their great fete the Moharam. 
 There is a fine mosque near, which now serves 
 as an English church, a French one, a theatre, 
 and something else. 
 
 The Hosenabad (lesser Imambara) remains 
 truly Oriental, and is still used for keeping 
 the Moharam tazias. Some of these are very 
 handsome. In the main hall with the tazias 
 are many glass chandeliers and mirrors. 
 
 The Jama Musjid is a grand building, with 
 the loftiest minarets in Lucknow. A large 
 bees-nest hung over the entrance. Our native 
 servant advised us not to go in, as he said 
 the flies would bite ! 
 
 Dil Kusha, where General Havelock died, is 
 now a ruin. 
 
LUCKNOW. — CAWNPORE. 153 
 
 The Martiniere is a large college built 
 something in the style of a French chateau. 
 
 The Kaiser Pasand is a combination of mina- 
 rets, Hindoo umbrellas, arches, and pedi- 
 ments. 
 
 We drove in the Cantonment, where are many 
 good houses and gardens. 
 
 In the amusing native city we bought 
 jewellery, scent, and Lucknow figures made 
 of terra-cotta, representing the different ser- 
 vants ; they are cleverly modelled. 
 
 On Sunday we went twice to Church. The 
 service was admirably performed, — good sing- 
 ing, a fine organ, and Dr. Spencer a splendid 
 preacher. 
 
 The dust at Lucknow is terrible. 
 
 February 22nd. — We went by train to Cawn- 
 pore, where we saw the Memorial Church, 
 and read a good many of the tablets, placed 
 on the walls inside, to those who perished in 
 the Mutiny. 
 
 We next drove to the Gardens. A white 
 
154 A PLBASUEB TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 marble angel stands over the well where the 
 terrible massacre of women and children took 
 place. On the pedestal is the following in- 
 scription — " Sacred to the memory of the great 
 company of Christian people, chiefly women 
 and children, who near this spot were cruelly 
 massacred by the followers of the Rebel, Nana 
 Dhoondoo Punth, of Bithoor, and cast, the 
 dying with the dead, into the well below, on 
 the 15th day of July 1857." No native is 
 allowed within the marble enclosure of the 
 Memorial Well. 
 
 We returned to Lucknow for dinner, and 
 left again, at 9.45 p.m., for Benares. The 
 day was hot, and the night cold. 
 
 We reached Benares on the 23rd of Feb- 
 ruary, soon after mid-day, and put up at the 
 United Service Hotel again. 
 
 This afternoon we drove to the city, and 
 were rowed up and down the river, sitting on 
 the top of a great boat. The Hindoo festival 
 called Suratri was being celebrated in honour 
 
BENARES. 155 
 
 of Mahadeo. Numbers of men and women 
 were bathing in the Granges, one woman pulling 
 a little girl into the river ; people making offer- 
 ings to the Granges, throwing in flowers, rice, 
 &c. Many Padres sitting on stages by the 
 river, to receive offerings to the idols and 
 Ganges. We saw a woman kiss a priest's foot. 
 Numbers of idols and temples. Altogether a 
 very busy and curious scene. On the platforms 
 with the priests were many little flames of holy 
 fire burning. All down the river-side were 
 quantities of huge unbrellas stuck up like 
 tents. 
 
 At the burning-ghat we saw four stages ; 
 first, a body, folded in a shroud, lying in the 
 Ganges previously to being packed in wood for 
 burning. Another body was laid in a kind of 
 cradle, and the relatives were piling up the wood 
 round and over it. A man had just been en- 
 closed, and his widow was walking round the 
 pile, till desired by the attending priest to set 
 fire to it, which she did with a torch ; then 
 
156 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 went away, leaving it blazing. The fourth 
 body was just finished, still smouldering. 
 Two men took it out of the ashes with long 
 sticks, at the ends of which must have been 
 hooks, and pitched the remaining trunk and 
 head into the river. They then threw water 
 on the embers, broke an earthen pitcher, and 
 departed. It was their mother they had thus 
 disposed of. 
 
 In the open part of the old city we saw the 
 son of the Maharajah drive along in state with 
 outriders. Soon after, we were in a house 
 looking on to the Golden Temple, when we 
 saw him arrive there carried in a palkee. He 
 put off his gold-embroidered slippers, and 
 walked bare-footed into the temple to offer to 
 the idol. The entrance to it and the narrow 
 street were slimy and wet from the water thrown 
 up to the idol over the door- way. The young 
 Rajah soon came out again, and was carried off. 
 There were some swell courtiers with him. 
 
 There were crowds of men and women going 
 
BENARES. 157 
 
 in and out of the Golden Temple, taking offer- 
 ings of water, fruits, rice, and flowers. We 
 saw some of the men belonging to the temple 
 bringing out two great trays of fruit and 
 things that had been presented. Doubtless 
 there was not room enough, as the temple is 
 not large. This offering is called doing poo j ah 
 to the idol. 
 
 The "Well of Fate was full of flowers to-day. 
 
 In a niche in one of the narrow streets we 
 saw a Fakeer with his face painted. He had 
 long black hair, and looked very wild. He kept 
 his hand in one position, as a penance. 
 
 There were deformities of cows, and one of 
 a calf, being exhibited in the street — one cow 
 with six legs, another with a hoof hanging from 
 the top of its back. Money was given to the 
 owners of these treasures. 
 
 The streets in the native city of Benares 
 are mere passages, far too narrow for carriages. 
 The houses are high. We walked about, 
 bought some lovely gold and silver embroidery 
 
158 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 on black velvet, also a quantity of brass trays, 
 cups, and surahies. They are beautifully 
 worked here. 
 
 Benares is a most interesting city in every 
 way, but very dirty. 
 
 On Thursday, February 24th, we left Benares 
 before 2 and arrived at Dinapore about 9. p.m., 
 drove to Colonel Stewart's charming bun- 
 galow, in the Cantonment, and remained there 
 till the evening of March 1st, when we left our 
 kind friends and started for Darjeeling. We 
 changed trains at Mokameh at midnight, and 
 arrived at Sahibgunge next morning about 7. 
 There we went on board a small steamer, which 
 took us up the Ganges on the way to Caragola. 
 The river was too low for the steamer to go 
 all the way, so we were turned out into a 
 small boat. There were no seats, we sat on 
 some matting laid down on the boat; an awning 
 arched over us. It was extremely hot. We 
 proceeded some distance in this way, pro- 
 pelled by natives; then had to get out and 
 
CAEAG0LA. 159 
 
 walk across the sand to another boat, our lug- 
 gage being carried. Finally we reached Oaragola. 
 The boat often ran aground ; then the half- 
 naked men jumped into the shallow river, and 
 started her again. 
 
 We saw many huge alligators lying on the 
 sand-banks when we were in the steamer. 
 As soon as they observed us, they slipped into 
 the water. 
 
 But to return to the small boat. The dark 
 men pushed and struggled, till at last we reached 
 Caragola Ghat. Shortly before landing, we ob- 
 served a European man lying drowned in the 
 Granges, and a number of natives evidently 
 holding an inquest on him. 
 
 At Caragola we washed, had some of the 
 delicious hump of beef, bread, and tea, so 
 kindly given us by the Stewarts, and started 
 in a dak gharee, at 7 p.m., for Silligoree. "We 
 paid sixty-four rupees for the journey. The 
 Government dak would have cost us ninety- 
 five rupees. 
 
160 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 We crossed, a wide river, on a ferry-boat, 
 in the dark. Natives pushed the carriage 
 on. Andrew and I got out and stood on 
 the boat. As for our servant Fackeera, he 
 slept fast on the roof of the carriage the whole 
 time. 
 
 Bullocks drew us for some distance on each 
 side of the river, the road being sandy and 
 heavy. When it was good, ponies were substi- 
 tuted, and away we galloped. It is wonderful 
 what a pace these half -broken little animals can 
 go in their ill-fitting harness. Fortunately they 
 are not troubled with much, only what there is 
 must serve for all the ponies, whatever their 
 size or shape. They are changed every six 
 miles, or ought to be. Once we were obliged 
 to go two stages with the same ponies, as 
 others had not come in. We were driving all 
 night. The carriage was so small that Andrew 
 could not lie down; but I did, well. 
 
 Next morning, at 7 o'clock, we stopped at 
 Kissengunge, where we washed and breakfasted 
 
KISSENGTJNGE. 161 
 
 at the dak bungalow. The Stewarts' provisions 
 again most useful. 
 
 A very hot day. We had a roasting drive 
 along the flat terai. 
 
 Quite a new kind of people. The women 
 wear a short piece of linen cloth, with coloured 
 stripes, fastened tight round them ; their necks, 
 arms, heads, and legs bare. They decorate 
 themselves with quantities of silver ornaments, 
 or metal ones if they can afford nothing better, 
 ear-rings, necklaces, armlets, bangles, anklets, 
 and toe-rings. The men of the working class 
 are almost naked. A fete was going on in a 
 village that we passed near, evidently a mar- 
 riage, magnificent bunches of bananas being 
 carried (as we supposed) to be presented to 
 the bridegroom, who was on horseback. The 
 favourite tum-tums composed the musical part. 
 
 We found ourselves at Silligoree about 5 p.m. 
 Settled about ponies. Mr. Edgar, the Deputy 
 Commissioner at Darjeeling, had most kindly 
 sent a policeman to help us. 
 
 11 
 
162 A PLEASTJEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 I put on my riding costume. We had tea, 
 with eggs, and set off on our ride to Punka- 
 baree. Andrew and I had ponies ; also there 
 were three others for Fackeera and the lug- 
 gage — the policeman accompanied the latter. 
 
 We rode through the river, which was wide 
 though happily not deep, then some miles 
 through a thickly wooded jungle, hoping we 
 should not meet a tiger. The moon shone 
 splendidly, and lighted up ranges of mountains 
 as we ascended after leaving the jungle. A 
 most beautiful and romantic ride. 
 
 We arrived at Punkabaree dak bungalow 
 about midnight. A poor place ; nothing to be 
 had to eat or drink. Fortunately we had our 
 bedding. 
 
 Next morning we were up before 6 o'clock ; 
 not much to be had. 
 
 We mounted our ponies, and rode up a very 
 steep ascent by a winding path to Kurseong, 
 about three hours. The scenery most beautiful : 
 ranges of hills on all sides ; numerous tea 
 
KTJESEONG. 163 
 
 plantations; fine trees by our path, with 
 creepers hanging about them in festoons; a 
 great variety of ferns, from tiny ones to 
 those with fronds fifteen feet long ; the tree 
 ferns splendid. Below us, far down, were the 
 terai and the winding river. 
 
 Shortly before reaching Kurseong we saw 
 in the great distance the truly magnificent 
 snowy top of Kinchin Junga. This was great 
 luck. Before mid-day clouds rose and hid it 
 from our sight. 
 
 Kurseong is a fair kind of village with a 
 bazaar and a good hotel, where people stay 
 sometimes to cool before going up into the 
 real cold at Darjeeling. The view from the 
 dak bungalow is grand. Here we had lun- 
 cheon, changed all the ponies for fresh ones, 
 and left our policeman. The superintendent 
 came to us. He was very civil and helpful. 
 
 We had a ride of eighteen miles through 
 most magnificent scenery to Darjeeling, the 
 road winding along the sides of the mountains 
 
 11 * 
 
164 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 through grand primeval forests, the fine old 
 trees beautified by a creeper with fern-like 
 leaves ; here and there deep gorges and ra- 
 vines full of wonderful ferns of many kinds, 
 the tree ferns very large; sometimes orchids 
 hung from the trees. The views of the ranges 
 of hills were enchanting. There were houses 
 and villages dotted about, and numerous tea- 
 plantations. In many parts the forests were 
 being cleared away in order to plant more tea, 
 so the beauty of the scenery will soon be much 
 injured. Where the forests remain untouched, 
 they are wonderfully wild and grand. 
 
 We rode through many villages. The native 
 huts are very small, mostly built of bamboo, 
 with no windows or chimnies ; still each had a 
 fire inside. Different types of people — some 
 Chinese, others from the mountains and 
 Thibet. With round faces, flatter noses, 
 fatter legs and bodies, they look jolly and 
 comfortable; much more so than the natives 
 in the plains. 
 
DAEJEELING. 165 
 
 Constantly up-hill, so we rode slowly. We 
 passed endless bullock-carts. 
 
 At Groar bungalow (a picturesque village) we 
 left the high road and proceeded by a path cut 
 along the side of hills, having a deep ravine 
 below and other hills opposite, to Jelapahar, 
 the soldiers' sanitarium, from whence we had 
 a fine view of Darjeeling and the surrounding 
 hills ; but not the snows, too hazy for them. 
 
 The wind was bitterly cold the two last 
 miles. I was half-frozen, so jumped off my 
 pony and walked. The change from the broil- 
 ing plains is a frantic one. 
 
 At 6 o'clock this evening we put up at Mrs. 
 Houghton's boarding-house in Darjeeling. The 
 night was extremely cold. 
 
 First Sunday in Lent. — We went twice to 
 church. Our landlady, Mrs. Houghton, led the 
 choir. She has a fine contralto voice. The 
 singing was nice, the preacher good. Mr. 
 Edgar called on us when we were out. 
 
 We walked down to the bazaar, and were 
 
166 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 much interested with the curious-looking people 
 from Thibet, China, &c. There were also Bhoo- 
 tias and Septias, the inhabitants of villages 
 near. They wear warm clothes, cloth shoes, 
 and hats. The women are decorated with 
 handsome ornaments, silver belts finely worked 
 and studded with turquoises, long silver ear- 
 rings set with the same, strings of coral and 
 turquoises round the throat, with a large silver 
 amulet worked in filigree and studded with 
 turquoises. The amulet contains a prayer or 
 charm. I bought one ; a peacock's feather 
 was inside. Those birds are sacred. Some of 
 the Bhootia women wear rolls of black round 
 their heads, ornamented with large beads of 
 turquoise and coral; also many finger-rings 
 having the same stones, which are evidently 
 the favourites with them. The men have long 
 hair — some sport pig-tails — very picturesque 
 caps, and ear-rings. Even the children wear 
 strings of beads. They are a nice, cheery 
 people, enjoy a joke, are fat, and seem strong. 
 
DARJEELING. 167 
 
 They have large calves to their legs. The 
 Hindoos have none; they are worn flat with 
 sitting on them. Some of the hill women are 
 very handsome ; they all have pleasant faces, 
 and are fairer than those in the plains. 
 
 Sunday is the great day for the country 
 people to attend the bazaar, held out in the 
 open air. They made such a noise and clatter, 
 we heard them afar off, At one end of the 
 bazaar a missionary was preaching to the 
 people. 
 
 A tremendous shower came on and dispersed 
 the crowd; it lasted some time, accompanied 
 by thunder and hail. The first time we have 
 been really wet since we came to India. 
 
 No snow mountains to be seen to-day ; not 
 even the nearer ones this afternoon. 
 
 Darjeeling is a beautiful place, the houses 
 dotted here and there on the sides of hills. 
 The villas have gardens attached. All the 
 ground is up and down ; there are ranges of 
 hills and mountains in all directions. 
 
168 A PLBASUEB TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Mrs. Houghton's boarding-house is charm- 
 ingly situated, with grand views of hills and 
 valleys on two sides, but each different. 
 
 Darjeeling is seven thousand two hundred 
 feet above the sea. 
 
 "We called on Mr. Edgar, and walked with 
 him to Sir Richard Temple's house. 
 
 The weather cleared at night, the moon 
 shone brilliantly, and we experienced a frost. 
 Our poor servant shivered with the cold, 
 though he wrapped himself up well in a kind 
 of blanket. 
 
 March 6th. — I was up very early, running in 
 and out all the morning in hopes of seeing the 
 snows. At last the sun appeared, and it was 
 past a thought splendid to see it light up the 
 tips of Kinchin Junga and the other giants of 
 the range one by one. They lie in the far 
 distance round two sides of Darjeeling. The 
 foreground of hill and dale is also very grand ; 
 such a depth of it, one range above another 
 up to the snows. Kinchin Junga, twenty- 
 
DAKJEELTNG. 169 
 
 eight thousand one hundred and seventy- six 
 feet high, aspires to heaven, and the others 
 stretch far away on either side. A mist on 
 some of them gave even more grandeur to the 
 points that appeared above it. A few clouds 
 on the great mountain, but they moved about, 
 so we saw it all well. We walked out, and en- 
 joyed the view from the Mall and other points. 
 Had we not been out before breakfast, we 
 should have missed all, as clouds rose and 
 veiled the snows before 10 o'clock. 
 
 We wanted to have ridden to the top of 
 Senchall^this morning, in hopes of seeing Mount 
 Everest, the highest in the world (twenty-nine 
 thousand and two feet) ; but unfortunately we 
 were persuaded to wait in hopes of a still 
 clearer day, which never came. 
 
 We walked down a long steep hill to Mr. 
 Wilson's large tea plantation ; the little shrubs 
 growing in rows, people weeding. We saw 
 the steam-machine for rolling the tea-leaves, 
 and the rooms where they are baked. Four 
 
170 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 crops are gathered each year ; in fact, it seems 
 that when any young leaves appear (which 
 they do very quickly after rain) they are 
 picked off. The youngest leaves make the 
 best tea. 
 
 Leaving this plantation, we had a long and 
 very steep walk up a fine gorge (where there 
 must be a waterfall during the rains) to the 
 bazaar. We passed the temple, where a bell 
 rings for some time each day at 6 p.m. We 
 were told the goddess was dining ! 
 
 Birchfield Park has very large trees. A fine 
 white rhododendron was in bloom. 
 
 We dined with Mr. Edgar, and met a party, 
 amongst them Mr. Clark, who is a celebrated 
 botanist. I went in a chair carried by four 
 Bhootia men. 
 
 As we returned, by moonlight, we fell in 
 with a large party of native mummers. I sug- 
 gested they should follow us to Mrs. Hough- 
 ton's, which they did, and performed for us. 
 Two serious-looking men of Chinese type were 
 
DAEJEELING. 171 
 
 evidently the managers ; they held lanterns to 
 show off the actors. The music (?) consisted 
 of tum-tums and cymbals, making a fearful 
 noise. Two little boys placed themselves in 
 attitudes and danced in a graceful way. Then 
 someone appeared as a large bird, and went 
 through antics. Two others were covered 
 with skins to personate a lion, having a huge 
 head with a great red mouth full of teeth. 
 This pranced about, roared, and rolled over. 
 A sedan chair full of mummers finished the 
 pantomime. 
 
 Bright, lovely day, and very cold night; 
 frosty. 
 
 March 1th. — Up extremely early again, and 
 I was rewarded by seeing Kinchin Junga's 
 summit with the three points perfectly clear. 
 The lower part of the mountain was enveloped 
 in mist, so that the top looked like a won- 
 derful white picture high up in the heavens. 
 
 Soon after 7 a.m. we started, on two capital 
 ponies, for the Teestah river, two others had 
 
172 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 been sent forward. Two syces (native grooms) 
 walked after us. "We passed through the Bhoo- 
 tia bustee (village). There were groups of 
 prayer-flags hoisted on tall bamboo canes here 
 and there. "When the wind blows the prayers 
 are wafted to heaven. The following is a 
 usual sentence written endless times on these 
 flags and on the paper inside the praying- 
 wheels, il Horn mani padmi hoong ! " in Eng- 
 lish, " Hail to the Lotus and Jewel ! " It is 
 supposed that Buddha sprang from the lotus. 
 
 The hill- sides are much covered with tea- 
 plantations. We ascended ten miles. Some- 
 times the path was so steep that we got off 
 and walked. We passed many groups of Bhoo- 
 tias sitting here and there out-of-doors, break- 
 fasting, cooking on small fires, eating grain, 
 and other simple things. They seemed pleased 
 to be spoken to. They wore very handsome 
 ornaments, especially the women. Some of 
 their amulets were lovely. Both men and 
 women carry great loads on their backs, in 
 
DAEJEELING. 173 
 
 long baskets, up and down these tremendous 
 mountains ; many had two sticks to help them. 
 Some of the women wear pretty green caps. 
 The vegetation was beautiful, consisting of 
 various ferns, bamboos, grey pampas grass, 
 and flowering trees, some covered with brilliant 
 scarlet blossoms. 
 
 At the bottom of the ten miles' descent we 
 arrived at the Runjeet river; there we found 
 fresh ponies and syces waiting for us. We 
 sat down for a time near the two bridges, 
 made of bamboo canes, that span the river, 
 and had tiffin, such as it was ; the sandwiches 
 were too tough. So we made the best of a 
 few hard-boiled eggs, some oranges, cold tea, 
 and brandy. 
 
 Having mounted the ponies that were sent 
 on last night, we had an enchanting ride along 
 a narrow path skirting the river. The truly 
 tropical vegetation beautiful ; magnificent bam- 
 boos often forming natural arches across the 
 path. Many different ferns, some of great 
 
174 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 length; the tree-ferns being splendid. Also 
 fine trees, tall and straight, some of them com- 
 posed of several stems that nearly joined. 
 They looked like weird spectres. They were 
 quite different to banyans. Everything was 
 growing in the wildest profusion, and looked 
 extremely fresh and green ; the small grey 
 ageratum in bloom. 
 
 After riding a good many miles by the Run- 
 jeet we reached the junction of that river with 
 the Teestah, a most beautiful spot. The back- 
 ground was on each side filled up with high 
 mountains one above another. The Teestah is 
 a fine river, much broader than the Runjeet; 
 the high banks on each side are wooded. 
 
 Sikhim is on the opposite side of the river. 
 
 We rode some distance along the banks of 
 the Teestah, through the same abundant tropi- 
 cal vegetation, to a point from whence we saw 
 another picturesque bamboo bridge. 
 
 There were many large butterflies flitting 
 about, and orchids hanging from the trees. 
 
DAEJEELING. 175 
 
 It was extremely hot by the river-side. 
 
 We returned by the same route ; a terrible 
 pull for the poor ponies up the long steep 
 hill. Andrew walked sometimes to save his. 
 
 A good way up the mountain we found the 
 ponies of this morning waiting for us, so we 
 changed, and they took us up to Darjeeling. 
 The fresh air, as we ascended, was delightful. 
 I do not wonder that the natives here object 
 to go down to the plains. 
 
 There was no protection to the path to-day ; 
 it would have been easy to fall over the preci- 
 pice. Andrew and his pony were very nearly 
 over at one place ; they were quite at the ex- 
 treme edge, something having caused the little 
 beast to turn suddenly. 
 
 We were thirteen hours en route, with the 
 exception of one that was divided between 
 tiffin, seeing the junction of the rivers, and 
 the view of the bridge. 
 
 March 8th. — We rode, this morning, with 
 Mrs. Cockerell and Miss Clarke, to Eungeroon 
 
176 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 on the side of the hill opposite to Darjeeling, 
 by Jelapahar, through Goar bungalow village ; 
 then turned to the left through the most 
 magnificent primeval forest — it had never been 
 touched in the memory of man. The trees 
 were very splendid and wild-looking, with 
 creepers twining about and hanging in fes- 
 toons from them. Here and there were fine 
 ravines, some white flowering trees in one, 
 supposed to be magnolias. We met some men 
 carrying bunches of enormous white rhododen- 
 drons, and also scarlet ones ; they must have 
 found them higher up the mountains. Our 
 road lay along the side of one. 
 
 Mr. Edgar who had followed us, conducted 
 us to two unfinished bungalows, and gave us 
 a capital tiffin in one. He is getting up a 
 horticultural garden here. Such a lovely orchid 
 we saw in full bloom on a stump. In the 
 forest there are quantities of laurels that grow 
 wild, they have smallish bright green leaves. 
 
 After riding back to Darjeeling, we went 
 
DAEJEELING. 177 
 
 on into the village to see Mr. Edgar's Bhootia 
 school. Some of the boys wrote English from 
 dictation, and at least one translated it into 
 his own language. 
 
 Lovely day, but hazy. No snow mountains 
 to be seen to-day. 
 
 Mr. Edgar sent me this evening a basket 
 of lovely and sweet-scented orchids in bloom, 
 with their roots. 
 
 February 9th. — We were up early, and went 
 to the Bhootia Bustee, Andrew walking, I 
 riding. 
 
 We visited the Buddhist Temple, where we 
 saw the great praying-wheel being turned 
 round by an old woman. Prayers are written 
 on a long roll placed inside a cylinder : at each 
 evolution millions of them are supposed to 
 ascend to heaven. There were six other 
 smaller wheels working in front of the Temple. 
 We went inside the building : it was very 
 simple, a room with three large wooden idols 
 at one end, having an altar before them on 
 
 12 
 
178 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 which were saucers for burning oil, sticks of 
 incense, and many narrow strips of parchment. 
 When I pointed to the latter (on which was 
 writing) and spoke to the Llama (priest), he 
 and another sat down and chanted from them, 
 in nasal voices, taking up one strip after 
 another. The wooden idols were more in the 
 form of mortals that those used by Hindoos. 
 Numerous idols were painted on the walls, 
 some of them goblins with three eyes. Out- 
 side the Temple were many prayer-flags on 
 bamboo-canes. 
 
 The village lies on the side of a steep moun- 
 tain. The houses are mostly built of bamboos 
 and dried grass ; they seem to consist of one 
 room each. Outside one we saw many men 
 sitting, praying aloud, sometimes putting both 
 hands forward as in supplication, or turning a 
 hand on one side, having before each a cup 
 of water and rice which they offered to the 
 idol. These were renewed from time to time 
 by an attendant. Some of the men were 
 
DAKJEELING. 179 
 
 turning small praying-wheels in their right 
 hands. 
 
 Returning up the hill, we met women work- 
 ing these machines as they walked along. 
 They are on the same principle as the large 
 one we saw. Each turn goes for so many 
 prayers said. 
 
 We breakfasted, and left beautiful Darjee- 
 ling about 11 a.m. on two of Mr. White's 
 capital ponies ; they ambled most of the way 
 down to Kurseong. Fackeera, with our lug- 
 gage, preceded us very early, having three 
 ponies. At Kurseong we got two fresh ponies 
 and a guide, and rode partly by the bullock- 
 cart road or short cuts to Paunchkeela, where 
 we arrived about 7 p.m., and were glad of 
 supper (such as it was), seeing we did not stop 
 to eat en route. 
 
 The scenery most splendid — finer even than 
 from Punkabarry to Kurseong : grand ranges 
 of mountains, luxuriant vegetation, bamboos, 
 flowering trees, and great variety of ferns. 
 
 12 * 
 
180 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 The path descended here rapidly in parts. 
 The dak bungalow at Paunchkeela dirty and 
 miserable. 
 
 Fackeera did not arrive with the luggage 
 till some hours after us. 
 
 We did not admire the two natives at the 
 dak. It was a poor little wayside place. 
 
 I am so distressed for the poor bullocks in 
 India; they have hard existences. Some are 
 large and look well cared for, but the greater 
 number are cruelly treated and badly fed. 
 They seem to do their best, and look very 
 patient. But the cruel drivers have no mercy ; 
 they sit on the ill-made carts close to the poor 
 bullocks' tails, and give them no rest ; they are 
 constantly pinching their backs, kicking, and 
 beating them, pulling and twisting their tails, 
 so that generally they are knotted all down 
 and full of curves, often pulled off quite short, 
 or cut off. They are driven by a cord through 
 the nostrils, which must cause much pain. 
 They are miserably yoked, and draw by a 
 
PATTNCHKEELA. 181 
 
 thick piece of wood placed across the hump ; 
 this galls them, or rubs the flesh into lumps. 
 
 "We have constantly seen droves of animals 
 turned out to feed upon something that looked 
 like sand, being very short dry grass, so 
 parched that it was surprising the poor beasts 
 could eat it. 
 
 I am told that villagers do not usually feed 
 their chickens or cows; they must pick up 
 what they can. No wonder that a breakfast- 
 cupful of milk is considered a good quantity 
 for a cow to give. 
 
 The young kids are robbed like the calves. 
 At Punkabarry I saw a tiny kid longing to 
 suck : the poor mother kicked at it whenever 
 it tried to do so. And why ? Something was 
 put near the kid's mouth to hurt the goat. 
 
 The Hindoos are most barbarous. Their 
 religion forbids them to kill animals, but 
 they torture, drive, and starve them, to the 
 last extremity. 
 
 March 10th. — Some rain fell early. When 
 
182 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 it ceased we mounted our ponies and rode to 
 Silligoree through the Terai. Much of the 
 wood on fire : sad to see the poor trees burning 
 alive. 
 
 We left Silligoree about 1 p.m., and were 
 driven in a very small carriage, belonging to 
 Hadgii Abdoola, the rest of the day and all 
 night, changing ponies every six miles. For- 
 tunately the moon shone as we crossed the 
 ferry at Dingra Ghat. 
 
 The natives were celebrating the Feast of 
 the Holy to-day ; much tum-tum was going on. 
 At night there were bonfires in the villages. 
 
 The women wear many ornaments, but not 
 much dress. One old woman amused us. She 
 had only a short striped cloth fastened tight 
 round her, from the waist to the knees, the 
 head (with shaggy grey hair), the neck, arms, 
 and legs bare, but decorated with a necklace, 
 many bangles, and anklets ; also rings hanging 
 all round the ears. 
 
 We regretted extremely to leave the beautiful 
 
CAEAGOLA GHAT. 183 
 
 mountains for the hot plains. The weather 
 very fine. 
 
 Next morning, about 10 o'clock, we found 
 ourselves again at Oaragola Grhat. For some 
 distance before arriving there we were de- 
 lighted with the magnificent trees we passed 
 on each side of the road — such round, widely 
 spreading ones — banyans and others that were 
 unknown to us. 
 
 Having washed and breakfasted, we left 
 Oaragola Ghat soon after 11 o'clock in a small 
 boat for the steamer, walking across the strip 
 of sand as before (the sand was quite hot). A 
 dead body was floating down the Granges. 
 
 We embarked on board the steamer, and 
 were landed at Sahibgunge, having seen only 
 one alligator. 
 
 We were obliged to wait at the Sahibgunge 
 railway station till past midnight for a train. 
 There were a good many dirty children in the 
 ladies' waiting-room, and a tipsy Irishman in 
 that supposed to belong to gentlemen ; so at 
 
184 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 last I lay down on the platform, on our bedding 
 rolled up as it was, and went to sleep like a 
 native — they always lie about on the platforms. 
 
 A very hot day ; lightning at night. 
 
 March 12th. — We arrived at Calcutta at 
 10.30 a.m., and went to Spence's Hotel, where 
 we found a comfortable room ready for us. 
 
185 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CALCUTTA. BUDDHIST RELIGION.— MADEAS. — NEIL- 
 
 GHEEEIES. TEICHINOPOLY. MADUEA. 
 
 GREAT PAGODAS. TUTICOEIN. 
 
 We remained at Calcutta two nights. The 
 Maidan was looking green and beautiful, the 
 Eden Gardens gay with flowers ; numbers of 
 pale European children were playing about, 
 attended by ayahs ; but the weather was fear- 
 fully hot, quite melting. Even the poor people 
 were walking holding umbrellas over their 
 heads. We saw a cabman with one, and a 
 horse with a kind of topee on his head to save 
 it from the sun. 
 
 It was a great joy to me to attend Divine 
 
186 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Service again in the Cathedral ; also to hear 
 the admirable choir, and fine organ so well 
 played. 
 
 One morning we visited the new market. 
 It is a fine bnilding and well arranged; the 
 beautiful fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, &c, 
 are all separate, also the different kinds of meat 
 are kept apart. 
 
 March 14th. — We left Calcutta in the 
 " Tibre " Messageries Maritimes Steamer, 
 soon after 10 a.m., for Madras. The banks of 
 the river Hooghly were looking green and 
 much decorated with palm trees. 
 
 We anchored some distance down the river, 
 as there was not sufficient water to take us 
 over the bar. There we spent the night, and 
 were nearly devoured by mosquitoes, the heat 
 being great; and, adding to our discomfort, 
 large blackbeetles ran about the washing-stand. 
 Truly an uncomfortable night ! 
 
 There were also numbers of tiny ants racing 
 about our cabin. 
 
BUDDHISM. 187 
 
 Next morning we steamed out to sea, and 
 the mosquitoes vanished, but the heat con- 
 tinued to be melting. 
 
 A gentleman on board had been much in 
 Japan. He held that there is great rapport 
 between the Christian and Buddhist religions ; 
 that he contrived to be at a great Buddhist 
 service in China, and he could have fancied 
 himself in one of our High Churches or 
 a Roman one. A grand choral service, with 
 trumpets ; a choir and real singing ; priests 
 in grand vestments ; incense ; a high altar, 
 and side ones; the priests kneeling, but the 
 people appearing to take no part in the service. 
 They believe in One Great Grod. Buddha, their 
 prophet, was born out of a lotus; hence the 
 praise written on the flags and praying- wheels : 
 " Hail to the Lotus and the Jewel ! " Buddha 
 never dies ; his spirit passes into an infant, who 
 is the next Buddha. He seems to be a kind of 
 Pope. As soon as a representative of Buddha 
 dies, the great Llamas take out a certain set 
 
188 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 of things belonging to him, and wander about 
 till they find a young infant who owns them, 
 and who makes signs that the spirit of Buddha 
 has passed into him. The gentleman saw one 
 of these infants in Sikhim ; it was treated quite 
 as a holy being. He showed me a wafer 
 stamped with the image of the baby Buddha 
 that he saw. He also talked about the 
 Hindoos. These worship One Great Grod, but 
 approach Him through lesser deities. Their 
 idols represent the different attributes or incar- 
 nations of the One God. He was of opinion 
 that Hindoos make very bad Christians, that 
 unbelief increases, and they become nothing. 
 
 But to return to our voyage. We suffered 
 from a roasting head- wind. The heat was 
 extreme. 
 
 The evening of March 18th we anchored off 
 Madras. Such a length of lights on shore ! 
 Some large light boats with scantily dressed 
 men came off to the steamer. We slept on 
 board. 
 
MADEAS. 189 
 
 The following morning natives came to sell 
 feathers, birds, skins, fans, and other things. 
 Some conjurors performed clever tricks. 
 
 We disembarked in one of the large Madras 
 surf-boats, and landed on the pier, but saw 
 other boats arriving on the surf, of which 
 there was not much to-day. These boats are 
 stitched together, not nailed. The catamarans 
 are curious little boats, consisting of a log of 
 wood with a hole scooped out for a man to sit 
 in and paddle himself along. 
 
 "We left Fackeera at the railway station in 
 charge of our goods, and went to service at 
 an English church. The congregation con- 
 sisted mostly of black people and half-castes. 
 It was so odd to see the women in European 
 dresses, their black skins looking through the 
 white muslin. 
 
 We drove into the native quarter called the 
 Black Town. There we saw several of Jug- 
 gernaut's Cars in temporary sheds ; each had 
 six great wooden wheels. The cars were very 
 
190 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 high, and much decorated with small images 
 cut in wood and painted all kinds of bright 
 colours, one series above the other, to the 
 top, which supported a large platform on which 
 the idol is placed when taken out on the great 
 Feast-day. These cars are then drawn by 
 numbers of natives. They look extremely 
 heavy. 
 
 We saw many temples, but were not allowed 
 to enter them. 
 
 Much embroidery is done here on frames 
 by men. I went into a small native house 
 after a beetles- wing dress. I bought a very 
 handsome one. It was curious to see the half- 
 naked black men showing it off. Many dresses 
 were richly embroidered in silk. One old man, 
 wearing spectacles, squatted on the ground. 
 
 Madras is a long, straggling town. The 
 houses of the rich natives are large ; they 
 compose a street. The European quarter is 
 two or three miles distant from the native 
 town. Government House is large and hand- 
 
MBTTAPOLLIUM. KULLAR. 191 
 
 some. The compound extensive ; we saw 
 gazelles strolling about in it. The People's 
 Park has a menagerie of wild beasts. 
 
 The heat extreme. 
 
 We left at night by train for Mettapollium, 
 where we arrived next morning before 10 
 o'clock. After spending some hours there, we 
 drove to Kullar, through a most magnificent 
 jungle of cocoa-nut palms, aloes in bloom and 
 in fruit, bamboos, &c. By the roadside, here 
 and there, were natives selling fruit — mostly 
 young cocoa-nuts. We found them tender, 
 and the milk delicious. 
 
 At Kullar, saddle-horses were waiting for 
 us; so we mounted and rode nine miles up- 
 hill to Conoor, by a magnificent pass in the 
 Neilgherries. It took us nearly five hours to 
 arrive. The path was in parts very steep ; 
 the large horses not fit for mountain work. 
 The scenery was splendid all the way. The 
 path wound about up the gorge, crossing fine 
 ravines by wooden bridges. Here and there 
 
192 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 was a cascade. There were grand mountains 
 opposite the one we were toiling up. The 
 coffee plantations were a mass of white bloom. 
 The leaves of the plant are bright, like a 
 Portugal laurel. Tillages were perched in a 
 most picturesque way on the rocks. There 
 were beautiful trees and creepers that we have 
 not seen before. The flowering trees were 
 wonderful, especially the temple-tree with its 
 very fragrant white blossoms, and a most bril- 
 liant scarlet-flowered tree. Water flowed at 
 the bottom of the gorge, ever and anon falling 
 in a cascade. We passed numberless bullocks 
 and donkeys, carrying great loads up the 
 mountain. Late in the evening the former 
 were lying in parties feeding with their loads 
 off. But the poor donkeys seemed to have 
 nothing given to them ; they were merely 
 turned loose to pick up what they could, and 
 on that mountain path there was little or 
 nothing. One was trying to eat a piece of 
 bark. They were such poor, thin little beasts. 
 
COONOOE. 193 
 
 As we ascended, the air became cooler, 
 though quite warm enough. 
 
 It was dark before we reached Ooonoor. One 
 of the Syces walked first, and my horse fol- 
 lowed in his steps, the others coming after us. 
 It was not over-pleasant, riding a large tired 
 horse, without much command over his hind 
 legs, along that steep unprotected path in the 
 dark. Of course this was only towards the 
 end of the pilgrimage. 
 
 We were glad to find ourselves settled at 
 Coonoor in a most comfortable hotel, kept by 
 a Scotchman — everything very clean and 
 good. 
 
 The next morning we were out walking 
 early, enjoying the fresh, still, balmy air, and 
 the lovely scenery. There were mountain 
 peaks all round, up to Mount Dolabet, which 
 is the highest point of the Neilgherries. Com- 
 fortable-looking houses dotted about in the 
 glen. The lights from them last night were 
 cheering, and so were the fire-flies. 
 
 13 
 
194 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 " Grlen View" was the name of our hotel. 
 It had a large garden, scented with orange- 
 blossoms and heliotropes, of which latter plant 
 there was a great hedge in full bloom. It was 
 enchanting to look over the flowery garden to 
 the fine mountain-tops, and down into the 
 glen, and to listen to the sound of a torrent 
 below. 
 
 We walked up to the English church. The 
 graveyard was gay with roses in full bloom, 
 a hedge of pink ones, and many standards 
 loaded with pale-yellow China roses. There 
 were numbers of feathery pines, or cypresses, 
 and much variety of foliage among the trees. 
 
 Ootacamund is higher than Coonoor, but 
 we hear it is less beautiful. It lies on high 
 table-land, and has not so many trees. The 
 view from the graveyard was exquisite, look- 
 ing over the roses to the mountains, the shapes 
 of which are picturesque and pointed. 
 
 With regret we left Coonoor about 9 a.m., 
 and drove to Mettapollium by the new ghat, 
 
COONOOR. 195 
 
 changing ponies twice en route. The scenery- 
 was splendid all the way, even more so than 
 by the bridle-path. The road turned about so 
 much that we saw the hills in many aspects. 
 The great gorge has a good waterfall, and 
 there are many deep ravines there. We 
 crossed by wooden bridges. The hill -sides 
 were clothed with trees and shrubs, having 
 foliage of all shades of green, some of a red- 
 dish ' tinge — many covered with blossoms. 
 There were also tea and coffee plantations. 
 
 The native town of Coonoor is nearly at the 
 head of the glen. There were numbers of 
 people in the bazaar as we drove past. The 
 air at Coonoor is most delightful — so fresh, 
 without being cold. 
 
 We passed many villages and houses on our 
 way down. One of our ponies was very wild 
 and unbroken. He reared when we tried to 
 start, and broke both the old traces. Luckily 
 some more were handy, and the other little 
 beast was quiet; but we ran many risks of 
 
 13 * 
 
196 A PLBASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 being upset round the sharp turns, owing to 
 the wild pony. 
 
 "We arrived safely at Mettapollium, enchanted 
 with our excursion to the Neilgherries. Left 
 by train at 2 p.m., arrived at Erode soon after 
 6 p.m. ; found no hotel there, and no train to 
 take us to Trinchinopoly ; so we slept in a 
 room arranged for travellers over the railway 
 station, and dined in the refreshment-room. 
 
 The natives use covered bullock-carts here 
 to drive in. 
 
 The scenery was pretty to-day, of hills ; 
 but we felt the heat much, returning to the 
 plains. 
 
 Next morning we left Erode at 6 o'clock, 
 and reached Trichinopoly four hours and a 
 half later. On the way we saw ranges of 
 mountains, palms, cactuses, and aloes, mud 
 hovels, and very black natives, the men wear- 
 ing hardly anything ; the women having 
 scarves hung about them in a very graceful 
 way. These latter sport many ornaments, 
 
TEIOHINOPOLY. 197 
 
 especially ear-rings, several round the top of 
 each ear, and a very heavy one in the lobe. 
 The lobes are stretched and enlarged till they 
 hang down nearly to the neck. A hole is 
 made in the lobe of each ear when a girl is 
 quite young ; this is gradually enlarged till 
 the desired elongation is accomplished. 
 
 On our arrival at Trichinopoly we drove to 
 the dak bungalow — a wretched place. How- 
 ever, there was nothing better, and the con- 
 samer did his best for us. Bullock-bandies 
 are used here; but there are a few gharries, 
 of which we had one, and drove through much 
 of the native town; got out, and walked up 
 a narrow passage to a jeweller's. We entered 
 a mud hovel ; a cow was in a portion of it, 
 near where we sat. The old jeweller, with 
 scanty white hair and spectacles, wore nothing 
 above the hips, and, of course, had naked legs 
 and feet. He looked like a large monkey. 
 He brought a small bundle from an inner 
 chamber, and displayed handsome gold ear- 
 
198 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 rings and bracelets. Andrew bought a brace- 
 let of large indented berries covered with 
 filigree silver. 
 
 We returned to our gharry, and went on to 
 the great pagoda Shrirangam, across the river 
 Kavari, passing through a grove of cocoa-nut 
 palms. 
 
 This pagoda stands on an island formed by 
 two arms of the river; it is dedicated to 
 Yishnu, and is one of the largest in India, 
 though unfinished in parts. It includes num- 
 bers of courts, halls, enclosures, and gate- 
 towers. There are seven courts, and the sixth 
 contains the great hall, which is decorated 
 with elaborate carving, having some boldly-cut 
 horses, and images of deities, on the columns. 
 The gate-towers are crowded with carvings, 
 which represent legends of the idols. The 
 great hall has some thousand granite columns 
 carved. In one hall a bazaar is held. 
 
 We ascended a roof of the pagoda, from 
 whence we looked down on the whole of the im- 
 
TEICHINOPOLY. 199 
 
 mense building. In the centre is the "Vivama" 
 (Holy of Holies), containing the idol ; this has 
 a gilt dome. We were not allowed to enter 
 the court containing this, or any other one 
 where a worshipped idol was. 
 
 We next visited the pagoda of Jambukesh- 
 war, which is older and smaller than the other, 
 but more finished. It is probably of the 
 twelfth century. The outer court possesses 
 eight hundred columns which are so arranged 
 that one can look down an avenue of them 
 from whatever point they are taken. On the 
 right is a tank with a two-storied cloister 
 round it. The gate-towers are wonderfully 
 carved. This is considered an excellent spe- 
 cimen of a Tamil temple. 
 
 We drove back by the celebrated Hock of 
 Trichinopoly, which rises suddenly from the 
 plain, between five hundred and six hundred 
 feet. We ascended by a wide staircase cut in 
 the rock, and arched over, passing palace, 
 temples, and columns, on one side or the other, 
 
200 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 as we proceeded. At last we found ourselves 
 outside on the living granite, from whence we 
 had a good view of the large town and pagoda, 
 and sat down enjoying this and the glorious 
 sunset. We were amused by seeing numbers 
 of monkeys scramble down the rock into the 
 temple below for the night. There is another 
 temple on the summit of the rock, to which 
 pilgrimages are made. 
 
 We find it hard work, sight-seeing in this 
 roasting heat. One night in the dak bungalow 
 at Trichinopoly was quite as much as could be 
 endured. We were glad to leave next morning 
 at 11 o'clock for Madura, but before starting 
 we bought a good deal of the very handsome 
 jewellery made here. Some natives came to 
 us to sell — our old jeweller of yesterday being 
 one, but looking much smarter when dressed 
 in white. 
 
 We suffered much from the dry roasting 
 heat to-day, though the railway carriages have 
 double roofs. The pace was very composed. 
 
MADUEA. 201 
 
 The scenery was interesting — lovely hills on 
 both sides at one time, the Putnai range being 
 very picturesque. In the plain we had groves 
 of cocoa-nut palms, with villages of huts built 
 of bamboo-canes or of mud ; also paddy-fields 
 where rice is grown. We saw oxen treading 
 the rice out of the straw. Some trees were 
 like umbrella pines; they gave much shade. 
 Outside several temples we saw many horses 
 carved in stone, of different sizes, standing in 
 rows. These are evidently peculiar to the 
 south of India. Travelling here is much worse 
 than in the north — such bad accommodation 
 at the dak bungalows. There are hardly any 
 Europeans about, excepting those on the rail- 
 way business. 
 
 We made the acquaintance of Mr. Anderson 
 to-day, an important engineer on the South 
 Indian line. He most kindly asked us to dine 
 with him at Madura in the evening, saying we 
 should find nothing good at the dak bungalow 
 there. Naturally we declined. However, he 
 
202 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 was determined to take no denial, for he sent 
 his dinner to the dak bungalow, and there we 
 three partook of it. 
 
 We slept with all the doors and windows 
 open to the road, on account of the excessive 
 heat. Fackeera lay on the ground near one 
 door in the verandah. However, he is a sound 
 sleeper. Luckily we were not disturbed. 
 
 This dak bungalow is situated in a grove 
 of palms, and is but an indifferent abode. 
 
 March 24&h. — There are only bullock-hack- 
 eries to be hired here. They are covered 
 carts. Some are smart, have springs, and are 
 drawn by a pair of good trotting bullocks. 
 I should have enjoyed a drive in one of these. 
 However, Mr. Anderson would have a carriage 
 for us. To make sure, he sent to two natives ; 
 so, very early this morning, two . handsome 
 close carriages, each with a pair of fine 
 horses, came for us. Mr. Anderson arrived 
 about 7 a.m., and we started with him in one 
 of the carriages to the great pagoda of Minak- 
 
MADURA. 203 
 
 shi (one of the names of Parvati or Vishnu, 
 the wife of Shiva). 
 
 This splendid building is complete, both 
 inside and out. It covers twenty acres of 
 ground. It has nine gate-towers, or gopurams ; 
 four of them are very large, the others smaller. 
 They are all richly carved. The immense aisles 
 are faintly illuminated by small lamps. In 
 the first a bazaar is held. Our servant Fac- 
 keera was not allowed to go far beyond this ; 
 he being a low-caste man, a crowd of the 
 temple people soon sent him out. 
 
 The secretary of the temple and a native 
 engineer under Mr. Anderson, took us about 
 and explained ; both were very intelligent 
 men. Mr. Anderson also went with us ; if it 
 had not been for him we could not have seen 
 all we did. 
 
 From the first court we passed into another 
 large one, and so on to others. In one is the 
 tank of the G-olden Lotus. The walls are 
 painted in coloured frescoes, representing 
 
204 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 legends of the gods, Rajahs, and great people 
 belonging to the Hindoo religion. Very 
 curious they are. A number of wooden door- 
 ways, exquisitely carved, eleven hundred or 
 twelve hundred years old, lay in a court. 
 They were taken down at the time of the 
 Mahomedan raid on this Hindoo pagoda, 1560. 
 Now it is being repaired throughout, door- 
 ways will be put in to correspond, so we were 
 told we might purchase some of the beautiful 
 old carving, which we did with delight. A 
 ton and a half of it followed us to England. 
 This pagoda was built in 600 or 700. 
 
 Two very holy places we were not allowed 
 to enter — the Yivama, containing the great 
 deity Shiva; the other, Parvati his wife. At 
 the entrance to the Yivama were statues of 
 Shiva's two sons, one on each side. 
 
 "We met an elephant carrying water to bathe 
 the goddess. The temple is so immense, that 
 elephants can walk about, and several are kept 
 for the service of Parvati. She is washed and 
 
MADUEA. 205 
 
 dressed differently six times daily. When the 
 worship of her was over, we were allowed to 
 look at her from a distance, and with the 
 lorgnette we could distinguish a large figure 
 lighted up. Shiva we were not to see in any 
 way, though there were plenty of represen- 
 tations of him in stone-carving about. I asked 
 how it was we could see them and not the 
 one in the sanctuary. The answer was that 
 was self-created, the others the works of men. 
 The temple is rich in modern stone-carving ; 
 fine statues of idols in various incarnations; 
 beautifully carved pillars, of endless designs. 
 There was a stone ball inside several small 
 columns, cut out of the middle of them; it 
 was movable up and down, but could not be 
 got out of the nest] of columns. In another 
 part were two links of a chain hanging cut 
 out of the same piece of stone ; this was at- 
 tached to an animal that was well carved. On 
 one column is very finely carved work, and 
 over it are more small columns standing away 
 
206 A PLEASUEE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 from it in a circle. This is all cut out of one 
 piece of stone. It is wonderful how the tools 
 could be got in to carve the inner part so 
 exquisitely. We saw the black marble bull ; 
 also numbers of silver idols, and silver horses 
 for them to ride on during processions. A 
 rich collection. 
 
 We were so far favoured as to see the 
 splendid jewels belonging to the temple. They 
 were spread out in grand array for us, with 
 many priests to show them off. Neck-chains 
 of southern wood were given us to wear. 
 There were magnificent narrow, high head- 
 dresses, breast-plates, necklaces, lockets, ear- 
 rings, bracelets, &c, made of gold with pearls, 
 diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and huge sap- 
 phires. The stones of all kinds are uncut, 
 but many are very fine. Some stirrup-holders 
 are a mass of pearls ; another pair being 
 covered with coral. Some of the jewellery re- 
 presents birds and butterflies studded with 
 gems. The whole is estimated to be worth 
 
 
MADUEA. 207 
 
 twenty thousand pounds. It is used for the 
 decoration of the idols. 
 
 There is a great hall of one thousand 
 columns here in the same style as that near 
 Trichinopoly, but the carving here is much 
 superior. Before each idol there are many 
 lights burning. 
 
 We ascended to the top of the highest go- 
 puram and through a small hole on to the top 
 outside, from whence we had a good view of 
 the great pagoda with its courts and gateways, 
 also of the country. 
 
 We next visited the famous Choultry built 
 by Trimal JSTaik, to provide an apartment for 
 the god Shiva, who consented to leave his 
 shrine for ten days each year and visit the 
 King, in case a suitable place were erected 
 for his accommodation. The numerous stone 
 pillars which support the roof are elaborately 
 carved with great taste. On one pillar 
 Trimal Naik is represented with his six wives, 
 one of the latter having a gash below the hip 
 
208 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 on the left side. The legend is, that she was 
 the daughter of the Rajah of Tanjore, and 
 when her husband showed her the splendid 
 new Choultry, expecting her to be full of 
 admiration, she coolly observed that her 
 father's stables were superior. Trimal Naik 
 was so enraged that he stuck his dagger into 
 the proud lady's thigh. 
 
 The Choultry is close to the pagoda, so it 
 was very handy for Shiva. 
 
 Madura is a large clean town, with good 
 bazaars. 
 
 We returned to the dak bungalow till the 
 great heat of the day was over. Then the 
 carriage came and took us to Trimal Naik's 
 magnificent old palace, which is now being 
 partly restored for public offices. From the 
 top of this building the view of the town and 
 country with the palms and mountains is very 
 pretty. 
 
 "We drove on to Trimal ISTaik's tank. It is, 
 perhaps, the finest in India — a large square 
 
MADURA. 209 
 
 piece of water surrounded by granite steps and 
 a wall ; in the centre is an island with a 
 temple and many trees on it. 
 
 There are numerous good - looking bunga- 
 lows, with gardens, outside Madura. The 
 palm-groves are large. 
 
 We returned by the pagoda and went in. 
 It was partially illuminated ; there were rows 
 of small lamps round the doorway, then more 
 dotted here and there for a long distance, end- 
 ing with the sanctuary. The effect was grand 
 and mysterious in the darkness. 
 
 Mr. Anderson dined with us in the evening. 
 
 March 25th. — We were up about 4 o'clock 
 this morning, and left Madura by train at 
 6.15 a.m. We had a fearfully hot journey to 
 Tuticorin ; it was too roasting. The carriage 
 was small, and badly planned for such heat, 
 having no second roof. I could feel the sun 
 hot on my head through the roof and my 
 topee. 
 
 The natives are very black indeed, many of 
 
 14 
 
210 A PLEASUKE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 them nearly naked. The country is flat and 
 sandy, covered with rice and cotton fields. 
 
 We were glad to arrive at Tuticorin, and 
 shelter ourselves in a so-called hotel near the 
 sea, kept by a native, where we were refreshed 
 by a breeze. 
 
 There are many Romanists at Tuticorin. I 
 went into one of their churches this evening. 
 The floor was sand, on which many natives 
 were kneeling or sitting. A priest sat on a 
 chair ; an old native knelt by him confessing. 
 
 Very hot night. 
 
 Next morning we left soon after 7 a.m., 
 and were rowed some seven miles to the 
 British India steamer, the boatmen singing a 
 monotonous kind of chaunt. We were the 
 only first-class passengers, and were extremely 
 comfortable. 
 
211 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 CEYLON. — COLOMBO. — PEOPLE. — VEGETATION. — 
 
 EANDY. PEEEDENIA. NEWERA ELIYA. 
 
 LOVELY SCENERY. — POINT DE GALLE. VOYAGE 
 
 TO MARSEILLES. RETURN HOME. 
 
 March 27th. — We arrived at Colombo this 
 morning early, and were amused with some 
 boats. They were extremely narrow, about 
 half a foot wide, with an outrigger to steady 
 them. We drove to the Park, some miles 
 from Colombo, through an avenue and grove 
 of cocoa-nut palms, with houses and villas on 
 either side, decorated with flowering trees. 
 The lettuce-trees have the most brilliant green 
 
 14 * 
 
212 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 foliage. All this verdure we found very re- 
 freshing after desert India. There were also 
 native bazaars and houses. 
 
 The Cingalese, dressed in various gay co- 
 lours, looked most picturesque, walking along 
 the road amongst the palms. The Buddhist 
 priests had bright yellow garments hung on 
 their black frames. Some women wore scarlet 
 of a beautiful dye. It was amusing to see 
 the men, naked to the loins, walking with 
 Chinese umbrellas over their heads. They 
 wear long hair rolled up into a bunch behind ; 
 a long arched comb across the front keeps the 
 hair off the face. They are very effeminate- 
 looking. 
 
 The Park is the residence of Andrew's 
 younger brother; it is a large bungalow in a 
 wood of palms, with a very long room in the 
 centre that answers for eating and sitting in ; 
 a deep verandah in front, from whence one 
 can see the ocean at the end of the palm 
 avenue. There are a suite of rooms on each 
 
COLOMBO. 213 
 
 side this middle one ; they open one into an- 
 other, without doors. One side was handed 
 over to us. 
 
 This afternoon I was taken out in a pony 
 carriage to the Fort, and along the sea-drive, 
 which is delightful. 
 
 Colombo has good buildings. 
 
 "We find the climate very hot ; not grilling 
 like that of India, but a moister atmosphere — 
 a perpetual Turkish bath. 
 
 We remained four days at the Park, during 
 which time we saw much of Colombo. The 
 cinnamon - gardens cover a great extent of 
 ground. These shrubs have a leaf like a 
 bright Portugal laurel. There are drives in 
 all directions in the gardens. 
 
 "We went through the European part of 
 Colombo on to the native quarter, and visited 
 the fruit-market, where we saw mangoes, 
 cocoa-nuts, pines, and many curious fruits and 
 vegetables. Our brother is most kind in col- 
 lecting different fruits for us to eat. The 
 
214 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 mangoes are delicious. As for the pines, we 
 generally have one each. 
 
 The lake is very lovely ; the vegetation so 
 luxurious. 
 
 "We can only drive out in the early morning 
 and evening, on account of the heat, which is 
 most trying. Bullock- carriages are much liked 
 here by the natives. It is wonderful to see 
 how fast the little beasts trot, quite at the rate 
 of ten miles an hour. 
 
 One morning we visited a coffee manu- 
 factory. We saw the coffee spread out to dry 
 In the sun. In other places the outside shells 
 were being taken off. The coffee was sorted, 
 and the faulty bits taken out. Some of the 
 processes were done by machinery. 
 
 In the evening we heard a military band on 
 the green near the sea. There were a good 
 many Europeans in carriages. The constel- 
 lation of the Southern Cross we see here to 
 great advantage early in the night. A cocoa- 
 nut mill interested us much ; it was wonderful 
 
COLOMBO. 215 
 
 to see the oil squeezed by machinery out of 
 what looked so dry — I mean the pieces of the 
 kernel. The outside bark is made into mats 
 and rope. We watched some of the bark 
 passed through a machine ; it came out a 
 bunch of thick threads. Every scrap of the 
 cocoa-nut is utilized. 
 
 The bamboo is also of immense value for 
 building houses, boats, and many things. 
 
 We called on Sir Charles and Lady Layard. 
 The f ormershowed us his collection of live snakes. 
 
 March 31st. — We set off very early, drove 
 nearly five miles to the station, and left 
 Colombo at 7 o'clock for Kandy by rail- 
 way. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the 
 scenery. The train took us up a fine moun- 
 tain pass, called Kadaganawa. We wound up 
 the hill, and ran along the side of a ridge, 
 past " Sensation Rock," where the granite 
 forms a tremendous wall on one side, while 
 the deep valley lies far down on the other. 
 The view was splendid, of the fine luxuriant 
 
216 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 country below, rich with tropical vegetation — 
 cocoa-nut palms, flowering trees, rice-fields, 
 &c, backed by mountains with curiously- 
 shaped tops and peaks ; one, like a great book, 
 is called the " Bible Eock." 
 
 Before mid-day we arrived at Kandy, and 
 established ourselves soon afterwards at the 
 hotel, had luncheon, and then walked to the 
 photographer's. We saw splendid views of 
 Kuarajpaoora, and another ancient city nearly 
 a hundred miles from Kandy, in the north of 
 the island. These ruins must be well worth 
 visiting, but they are difficult of access. We 
 engaged a carriage and drove round the lovely 
 lake, ascending, en route, a hill from whence we 
 had a charming view of Kandy, with its cele- 
 brated Buddhist temple, and many villas and 
 bungalows dotted about ; an island in the lake, 
 where some king kept his wives ; now only 
 one gateway of the Palace remains. There 
 are sloping hills all round the lake, decorated 
 with nice bungalows, here and there, and 
 
KANDY. 217 
 
 numerous coffee plantations, with their pretty- 
 white blossoms. The variety of trees we saw 
 was wonderful — banyans, areca-nut, and cocoa- 
 nut trees, Palmyra palms, bamboos, jack-fruit 
 trees, mangoes, plaintains, potato trees (bear- 
 ing lovely grey flowers), jaggery, rattan, cacao- 
 nut, Talipot palm (of the large leaves of which 
 the Buddhist priests make their umbrellas), 
 travellers' tree (a most graceful kind of palm), 
 bread tree, &c. ; also aloes, and flowers. 
 
 Having returned to Kandy, we left our 
 carriage and walked through the Governor's 
 beautiful grounds and gardens, past his hand- 
 some house, on to " Lady Horton's walk," up 
 one of the hills overhanging the lake. The 
 views of Kandy and the surrounding hills en- 
 chanting. We saw all kinds of trees and 
 shrubs, and gathered some blossoms of the 
 temple tree. They are white, with a yellow 
 centre, and delightfully sweet. King-fishers, 
 lovely little humming birds, and magnificent 
 butterflies enlivened the air. 
 
218 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 Lantana grows wild in great abundance in 
 Ceylon, and makes the country gay with its 
 bright scarlet, pink, or orange blossoms. The 
 leaves have a nice herby scent. 
 
 The Court-house, formerly the Durbar-hall, 
 has finely carved wooden columns. 
 
 But the curiosity of Kandy is the celebrated 
 temple that contains the supposed tooth of 
 Buddha — the real one was carried off long 
 since. The temple was open this evening for 
 worship, and we went in. At the entrance 
 was rude music made by drums and pipes; 
 boys about selling flowers for offerings. In 
 the octagonal building are rolls of the sacred 
 books. In another part we saw the large 
 image of Buddha in the form of a man, and 
 several other smaller ones of him, one being of 
 crystal or amber in a case. We were allowed 
 to go into the outer part of the principal 
 temple, where were many worshippers offering 
 sweet-scented flowers. From thence we went 
 into the sanctuary containing Buddha's tooth. 
 
KANDT. 219 
 
 It is only shown on very great occasions, and is 
 buried in several cases. We saw the outside 
 one, which is like a good-sized urn, and is 
 made of gold, studded with precious stones — 
 emeralds, rubies, &c. Before this object of 
 adoration was a very large round tray covered 
 with floral offerings, which one of the priests 
 was arranging. 
 
 Between the sanctuary and the outer cham- 
 ber was a narrow slip, in which were wor- 
 shippers on their knees, bowing their heads to 
 the ground and praying most devoutly. 
 
 We had some showers to-day, with thunder 
 and lightning. 
 
 We left Kandy on the 1st of April by the 
 7 a.m. train, and got out at Peredenia, walking 
 about a mile to the Botanical Grardens there. 
 On the way we saw numbers of chameleons on 
 trees, and also on the banks. Some were very 
 large ; they varied much in colour — such 
 curious-looking animals. 
 
 We entered the Botanical Grardens by a 
 
220 A PLEASURE TEIP TO INDIA. 
 
 grand avenue of fine india-rubber trees. The 
 grounds are extensive. We had a charming 
 walk by the river shaded with great trees, the 
 air being scented by their flowers. 
 
 We called on Mr. Thwaites, who has the ma- 
 nagement ; he was most kind in walking about 
 with us, and showed us the beautiful fernery, 
 so admirably planned with turning walks 
 and rocks, having an endless variety of ferns 
 shaded by trees. We saw the vanilla creeper, 
 quinine, and mahogany trees, showers of purple 
 bourganvillias growing over trees. Luckily 
 the leeches were not about, the grass being 
 too dry. Saw a millionpede, which is a large 
 black insect with no end of legs ; and a cen- 
 tipede, pronounced by Mr. Thwaites to be 
 venemous. 
 
 It was curious to find immense dracenas 
 flourishing out of doors : also the Eurcharis 
 Ammazonica, and different varieties of cala- 
 diums ; the green - leafed one grows wild in 
 Ceylon. 
 
PEEEDEtttA. 221 
 
 We were amused at the crowds of " flying 
 foxes" — an immense kind of bat; they were 
 whirling to and fro in the air like rooks, and 
 were some four feet from one wing-tip to the 
 other. 
 
 Mr. Thwaites took us into his house, gave 
 us delicious tea, and showed us a collection of 
 splendid butterflies, some of them very large. 
 He kindly sent us in his carriage to the 
 station. We drove over a large bridge built 
 of satin-wood on the road there. 
 
 We left Peredenia station before mid-day, 
 and went by train to G-ampola. The scenery 
 was very lovely on account of the hills and the 
 luxuriant tropical vegetation ; the lantana most 
 abundant, and in fine bloom everywhere. A 
 lady brought a small piece of this plant, and 
 now the island is over-run with it. 
 
 At Gampola we left the train for a carriage 
 that was called a coach, and proceeded several 
 hours up-hill to Ramboddy, through fine moun- 
 tainous scenery and coffee-plantations. The 
 
222 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA.. 
 
 horses were often changed. We had luncheon 
 en route. The hotels in Ceylon are dear and 
 bad. A storm overtook us, and the rain poured 
 in through the cover of the carriage. For- 
 tunately we were able to change our wet 
 garments at Ramboddy, and from thence took 
 a private carriage to Newera Eliya. We had 
 three horses for twelve miles to the top of the 
 pass, the ascent being very steep. The road 
 is narrow and badly engineered, with no end 
 of sharp turns, and, as a rule, nothing to 
 protect one from falling over the frantic pre- 
 cipice into the depths below. The most 
 troublesome things were the bullock - carts 
 that we met, with their long covers ; it was 
 not always easy to pass them. 
 
 The views as we ascended were lovely over 
 the island — hill and dale, with many fine 
 mountains. Before we reached Reginald's 
 house at Newera Eliya it was dark. 
 
 Next day we went to church ; also had a 
 charming walk through a jungle and some way 
 
NEWERA ELITA. 223 
 
 down a ravine ; then over a hill and by more 
 jungle down to the lake, returning by the 
 race-course. 
 
 We passed an old burial-ground, and saw in 
 it the monument to an officer who had been 
 struck by lightning on a mountain pass. 
 Strange to say, his monument has been struck 
 by lightning, and the top slab split in two. 
 
 There are some fine hills round Newera 
 Eliya, including " Pedro," the highest in Cey- 
 lon ; but it is not a pretty place, being rather 
 desolate-looking after the luxuriant Kandy. 
 
 Rhododendrons grow wild. The garden at 
 Reginald's house was gay with flowers, hedges 
 of geranium in full bloom, petunias, verbenas, 
 and Japanese honeysuckle, delightfully sweet. 
 
 The air is much cooler here, though the sun 
 is hot. 
 
 "We saw a very small snake. 
 
 Monday, April 3rd. — We set off soon after 
 6 o'clock this morning, and drove to Ram- 
 boddy, fourteen miles. 
 
224 A PLEASUEE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 We were able to enjoy the fine scenery to- 
 day, both near and distant. Ramboddy is a 
 very pretty place, and possesses some water- 
 falls. 
 
 We proceeded from thence to G-ampola in 
 the coach, and then on by train to Colombo. 
 I was delighted with the hedges of splendid 
 white daturas, in full bloom, by the roadside. 
 Ceylon is truly a most beautiful island. 
 
 We found the heat very trying in Colombo 
 to-night. 
 
 Tuesday, April 4th. — ¥e took leave of our 
 relative and of our faithful Indian servant 
 (who we send back to Bombay), and started 
 at 6.30 a.m. in the coach for Galle — a truly 
 beautiful drive through groves of cocoa-nut 
 palms, interspersed with bread-fruit trees, jack 
 trees, &c. The foliage of the bread tree is 
 very handsome. Sometimes we were close to 
 the sea. Again, an opening inland showed 
 mountains. We passed several Buddhist 
 temples, and numbers of native hovels and 
 
GALLE. 225 
 
 bazaars, and crossed several rivers by bridges. 
 It was lovely looking up the banks fringed by 
 palms. 
 
 We reached G-alle about 4 o'clock, and put 
 up at the Oriental Hotel, in some airy rooms 
 on the second floor, where we got a breeze 
 with all the doors and windows open. 
 
 We were disappointed that the French mail 
 steamer had not arrived. We waited several 
 days for her. 
 
 The heat terrible at G-alle — the sun fearfully 
 scorching. 
 
 There is one street of fine houses, evidently 
 belonging to the well-to-do inhabitants. 
 
 A nice walk we had on the ramparts by the 
 sea. One day we saw cocoa-nut barrels stand- 
 ing in the sun to clarify the oil inside them ; 
 also blacklead being sifted and arranged. 
 
 There are a good many people staying in 
 the hotel waiting for steamers. The natives 
 bring goods to sell — tortoiseshell combs and 
 ornaments, and various thiags. 
 
 15 
 
226 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 One afternoon we had a delightful drive 
 through groves of cocoa-nut palms, bread- 
 fruit trees, and king cocoa-nuts, &c, to "Wak- 
 walla on a hill, from whence we had three 
 beautiful views. On the right, groves of palms 
 small hills, houses, and verdure, with distant 
 mountains ; on the left, the same kind of 
 scenery, with the river winding in a most 
 eccentric manner ; and in front, a fine fore- 
 ground with distant mountains. The Haycock 
 is a large pointed one. Unluckily it was too 
 hazy to see Adam's Peak, though it had been 
 visible early this morning. 
 
 We passed a lovely spot on the way — a 
 small river spanned by a rustic bridge, the 
 banks luxuriant with tree - ferns and other 
 species, also palms, and tropical vegetation ; 
 the air scented with the highly -perfumed blos- 
 soms on trees. 
 
 As we returned, we visited a Buddhist 
 temple. There were curious paintings on the 
 walls, representing histories of Kings and 
 
GALLE. 227 
 
 others. In an inner part was a gigantic 
 reclining figure of Buddha; in an outer 
 room, an idol, resembling a Hindoo one, with 
 several pairs of arms. We were shown the 
 priests' house. Some of them were there 
 in their yellow costumes. They had nice 
 rooms. 
 
 We drove into the native part of Galle, and 
 saw the bazaar and the fruit market. 
 
 The Cingalese are most disagreeable people ; 
 they are pushing, great cheats, idle, and have 
 no manners. Also, they are fearfully odori- 
 ferous. 
 
 The damp, boiling heat is very trying at 
 Galle. 
 
 We were most thankful to leave by the 
 French Mail, the " Tigre," on Saturday, the 
 8th of April. 
 
 Ceylon looked very beautiful as we steamed 
 away, with the fine range of mountains, in- 
 cluding the Haycock. 
 
 The " Tigre " is a very large steamer. 
 
228 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA. 
 
 We had a great number of passengers — 
 English, French, Italians, Germans, Dutch, 
 Spanish, and one Russian. Chinese servants 
 worked the punkahs and cleaned. There were 
 African Negro firemen, some ayahs, a party 
 of strolling actors, lots of monkeys, birds, 
 different kinds of parrots, Java sparrows, 
 nightingales ; last, though not least, Spanish 
 priests, a French frere, and Italian sorelle 
 religiose, on their way from their missions in 
 China. The heat was great in the Indian 
 Ocean, but the moonlit nights were delightful. 
 The Queen of Night rose out of the sea 
 bright red. Jupiter and Sirius were most 
 brilliant. The Southern Cross is a most 
 striking constellation. 
 
 In the evening we generally had music on 
 deck. I sang; a Danish gentleman played 
 admirably. Also there were other performers. 
 
 On Sundays and Good Friday we English 
 had divine service. 
 
 We arrived off Aden late in the evening of 
 
ADEN. 229 
 
 the 16th. The volcanic rocks there are high, 
 and of curious shapes. It was extremely hot, 
 and we slept on deck. 
 
 Next morning, numbers of black boys came 
 round the steamer, diving in the sea for money 
 which the passengers threw in, or bobbing about 
 like floats. Some of them were in tiny boats, 
 scooped out of a piece of wood, which they 
 propelled by a paddle worked first one side then 
 the other. It was wonderful to see a boy dive 
 straight down out of this frail boat and skip 
 into it again so quickly. Some of these little 
 imps had their hair curly all over, like mops 
 dyed red. This looked most peculiar with 
 their black skins. It was rather a light brown 
 colour than red. Some plaster fell off the 
 head of one of them, which left a brown tinge 
 on the water. 
 
 On the 17th we passed the straits of Babel 
 Mandel. The sea has been splendidly calm. 
 
 April 19th. — We had a cool wind at night. 
 The water in the bath has been quite warm ; 
 
230 A PLEASUEE TBIP TO INDIA. 
 
 now it is less so. On the 20th there was quite 
 a touch of Europe in the breeze. Next day 
 the steamer began to dance a little. We 
 passed the two flat rocks called the "Brothers," 
 they are only forty feet above the water. We 
 are losing the Southern Cross. 
 
 April 22nd. — Arrived off Suez, and after 
 remaining an hour and a half we proceeded 
 into the canal. The weather quite chilly at 
 night. The monkeys shivered, and I made 
 them red flannel jackets, which they seemed 
 to like. The punkahs taken down ; the gar- 
 gons changed their white jackets and trousers 
 for black. The Chinese servants abandoned 
 their loose white trousers and hanging jackets 
 or rather shirts, and appeared in dark blue 
 cloth or serge. All were prepared for Europe 
 and cooler weather. However, it -was hot 
 enough in the Canal to-day. 
 
 The Chinese servants wear very long pig- 
 tails. These are let down when they are in 
 the saloon, but twisted up at the time they 
 
POET SAID. MAESBILLES. HOME. 231 
 
 are working. They have the fore-part of 
 their heads shaved. 
 
 April 24th. — We landed at Port Said, and 
 walked about for a couple of hours while the 
 steamer was coaling. The public gardens 
 there were gay with flowers. 
 
 May 1st. — We found ourselves at Marseilles. 
 The latter part of our voyage we had a 
 rolling sea and cold weather. However, we 
 were altogether highly favoured. 
 
 We returned to England greatly delighted 
 with our journey to India, and recommend 
 the " Trip " to any who wish to escape a 
 cold winter, and to enjoy a thorough change. 
 
LONDON : 
 PRINVKi) BY W. H. AXLKN AND CO, 13 WATERLOO PI.ACK, S.W. 
 
February, 1880. 
 
 BOOKS, &c., 
 
 ISSUED BY 
 
 MESSES. Wm. H. ALLEN & Co., 
 
 Pufoifejjerg & SLiterarg ^ents to tfje Kntita ©$Kce, 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS IN GENERAL 
 LITERATURE. DICTIONARIES, GRAMMARS, AND TEXT 
 BOOKS IN EASTERN LANGUAGES, MILITARY WORKS, 
 INCLUDING THOSE ISSUED BY THE GOVERNMENT. INDIAN 
 AND MILITARY LAW. MAPS OP INDIA, &c. 
 
 In January and July of each year is published in 800., price 10*. 6^., 
 
 THE INDIA LIST, CIVIL & MILITARY; 
 
 BY PEBMISSION OP THE SECRETARY OE STATE POB INDIA IN COTTNCHi. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CIVIL. — Gradation Lists of Civil Service, Bengal, Madras and Bombay. 
 Civil Annuitants. Legislative Council, Ecclesiastical Establishments, 
 Educational, Public Works, Judicial, Marine, Medical, Land Revenue, 
 Political, Postal, Police, Customs and Salt, Forest, Registration and 
 Railway and Telegraph Departments, Law Courts, Surveys, &c, &c. 
 
 MILITARY.— Gradation List of the General and Field Officers (British 
 and Local) of the three Presidencies, Staff Corps, Adjutants-General's 
 and Quartermasters- General's Offices, Army Commissariat Depart- 
 ments, British Troops Serving in India (includmg Royal Artillery, Royal 
 Engineers, Cavalry, Infantry, and Medical Department), List of iNative 
 Regiments, Commander-in-Chief and Staff, Garrison Instruction Staff, 
 Indian Medical Department, Ordnance Departments, Punjab Frontier 
 Force, Military Departments of the three Presidencies, Veterinary 
 Departments, Tables showing the Distribution of the Army in India, 
 Lists of Retired Officers of the three Presidencies. 
 
 HOME. — Departments of the Office of the Secretary of State, Coopers 
 Hill College, List of Selected Candidates for the Civil and Forest Services, 
 Indian Troop Service. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS.— Orders of the Bath, Star of India, and St. Michael 
 and St. George. Order of Precedence in India. Regulations for Admis- 
 sion to Civil Service. Regulations for Admission of Chaplains. Civil 
 Leave Code and Supplements. Civil Service Pension Code — relating to 
 the Covenanted and Uncovenanted Services. Rules for the Indian 
 Medical Service. Furlough and Retirement Regulations of the Indian 
 Army. Family Pension Fund. Staff Corps Regulations. Salaries of 
 Staff Officers. Regulations for Promotion. English Furlough Pay. 
 
Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Works issued from the India Office, and Sold by' 
 Wm. H. ALLEN & Co. 
 
 Tree and Serpent Worship ; 
 
 Or, Illustrations of Mythology and Art in India in the First 
 and Fourth Centuries after Christ, from the Sculptures of the 
 Buddhist Topes at Sanchi and Amravati. Prepared at the 
 India Museum, under the authority of the Secretary of State 
 for India in Council. Second edition, Revised, Corrected, and 
 in great part Re-written. By James Fergusson, Esq , F.R.S., 
 F.R.A.S. Super-royal 4to. 100 plates and 31 engravings, 
 pp. 270. Price £5 5s. 
 
 Illustrations of Ancient Buildings in Kashmir. 
 
 Prepared at the Indian Museum under the authority of the 
 Secretary of State for India in Council. From Photographs, 
 Plans, and Drawings taken by Order of the Government of 
 India. By Henry Hardy Cole, Lieut. R.E., Superintendent 
 Archaeological Survey of India, North-West Provinces. In 
 One vol. ; half-bound, Quarto. Fifty-eight plates. £3 10s. 
 
 The Illustrations in this work have been produced in Carbon trom 
 the original negatives, and are therefore permanent. 
 
 Pharmacopoeia of India. 
 
 Prepared under the Authority of the Secretary of State for 
 
 India. By Edward John Waring, M.D. Assisted by a 
 
 Committee appointed for the Purpose. 8vo. 6s. 
 
 The Stupa of Bharhut. A Buddhist Monument. 
 
 Ornamented with numerous Sculptures illustrative of Buddhist 
 Legend and History in the Third Century b.c. By Alex- 
 ander Cunningham, C.S I., CLE., Major-General, Royal 
 Engineers (Bengal Retired) ; Director-General Archaeological 
 Survey of India. 4to. Fifty-seven Plates. Cloth gilt. 
 ,£3 3s. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 
 
 Archaelogical Survey of Western India. 
 
 Eeport of the First Season's Operations in the Belgam and 
 Kaladgi Districts. January to May, 1874. Prepared at the 
 India Museum and Published under the Authority of the 
 Secretary of State for India in Council By James Burgess, 
 Author of the " Bock Temples of Elephanta," &c, &c, and 
 Editor of " The Indian Antiquary." Half-bound. Quarto- 
 58 Plates and Woodcuts. £,% 2s. 
 
 Archaeological Survey of Western India. Vol. II. 1 
 
 Eeport on the Antiquities of Kathiawad and Kachh, being the 
 result of the Second Season's Operations of the Archaeological 
 Survey of Western India. 1874-75. By James Burgess, 
 F.R.G.S , M.R.A.S., &c, Archaeological Surveyor and Reporter 
 to Government, Western India. 1876. Half-bound. Quarto. 
 Seventy-four Plates and Woodcuts. £3 3s. 
 
 Archaeological Survey of Western India. Vol. III. 
 
 Report on the Antiquities in the Bidar and Aurungabad Dis- 
 tricts in the Territory of H.H. the Nizam of Haidarabad, 
 being the result of the Third Season's Operations of the 
 Archaeological Survey of Western India. 1875-1870. By 
 James Burgess, F.R.G.S., M.R.A.S., Membre de la Society 
 Asiatique, &c, Archaeological Surveyor and Reporter to Go- 
 vernment, Western India. Half-bound. Quarto. Sixty-six 
 Plates and Woodcuts. £,2 2s. 
 
Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Adam W. (late of Calcutta) Theories of History. 
 
 An Inquiry iuto the Theories of History, — Chance, — Law, — 
 Will. With Special Reference to the Principle of Positive 
 Philosophy. By William Adam. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 Akbar. An Eastern Romance. 
 
 By Dr. P. A. S. Van Ltmburg-Brouwer. Translated from 
 the Dutch by M. M. With Notes and Introductory Life of 
 the Emperor Akbar, by Clements R. Markham, C.B., F.R.S. 
 Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Allen's Series. 
 
 I. — World We Live In. 2s. 
 
 2. — Earth's History. 2s. 
 
 3. — Geography of India. (See page 9.) 2s. 
 
 4. — 2000 Examination Questions in Physical Geography. 2s. 
 
 5. — Hall's Trigonometry. (See page 10.) 2s. 
 
 0. — Wollaston's Elementary Indian Reader. Is. (See page 
 
 29.) 
 7 — Ansted's Elements of Physiography. Is. 4d. 
 
 Anderson (P.) The English in "Western India. 
 
 8vo. 14s. 
 
 Andrew (W. P.) India and Her Neighbours, 
 With Two Maps. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) Physical Geography. 
 
 By Professor D. T. Ansted, M.A., F.R.S., &c. Fifth 
 Edition. Post 8vo., with Illustrative Maps. 7s. 
 Contents: — Part I. — Introddction. — The Earth as a Planet. 
 — Physical Forces. — The Succession of Rocks. Part II. — 
 Earth — Land. — Mountains. — Hills and Valleys. — Plateaux 
 and Low Plains. Part III. — Water. — The Ocean. — Rivers. 
 — Lakes and Waterfalls. — The Phenomena of Ice. — Springs 
 Part IV. — Air. — The Atmosphere. Winds and Storms. — 
 Dew, Clouds, and Rain. — Climate and Weather. Part V. — 
 Fire. — Volcanoes and Volcanic Phenomena. — Earthquakes. 
 Part VI. — Life. — The Distribution of Plants in the different 
 •Countries of the Earth. — The Distribution of Animals on the 
 Earth. — The Distribution of Plants and Animals in Time. — 
 "Effects of Human Agency on Inanimate Nature. 
 
 "The Book is both valuable and comprehensive, and deserves a wide 
 circulation." — Observer. 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) Elements of Physiography. 
 
 For the use of Science Schools. Fcap. 8vo. Is. 4d. 
 
J 3, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) The World We Live In. 
 
 Or First Lessons in Physical Geography. For the use of 
 Schools and Students. By D. T. Ansted, M.A., F.R.S., &c. 
 Fcap. 2s. 95th Thousand, with Illustrations. 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) The Earth's History. 
 
 Or, First Lessons in Geology. For the use of Schools and 
 Students. By D. T. Ansted. Third Thousand. Fcap. 2s. 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) 
 
 Two Thousand Examination Questions in Physical Geography, 
 pp. 180. Price 2s. 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) and Latham (R. G.) Channel Islands. 
 Jersey, Gnernsey, Alderney, Sark, &c. 
 
 The Channel Islands. Containing: Part I. — Physical Geo- 
 graphy. Part II. — Natural History. Part III. — Civil His- 
 tory. Part IV. — Economics and Trade. By David Thomas 
 Ansted, M.A., F.R.S., and Robert Gordon Latham, M.A., 
 M.D., F.R.S. New and Cheaper Edition in one handsome 
 8vo. Volume, with 72 Illustrations on Wood by Vizetelly, 
 Loudon, Nicholls, and Hart ; with Map. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 " This is a really valuable work. A book which will long remain the 
 standard authority on the subject. No one who has been to the Channel 
 Islands, or who purposes going there will be insensible of its value." — 
 
 Saturday Review. 
 
 " It is the produce of many hands and every hand a good one." 
 
 Ansted (D. T.) Water, and Water Supply. 
 
 Chiefly with reference to the British Islands. Part I. — 
 Surface Waters. 8vo. With Maps. 18s. 
 
 Archer (Capt. J. H. Laurence) Commentaries on the 
 
 Punjaub Campaign — 1848-49, including some additions to the 
 History of the Second Sikh War, from original sources. By 
 Capt. J. H. Lawrence-Archer, Bengal H. P. Crown 8vo. 
 8s. 
 
 Aynsley (Mrs.) Our Visit to Hindustan, Kashmir, and Ladakh. 
 By Mrs. J. C. Murray Aynsley. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 Bernay (Dr. A. J.) Students' Chemistry. 
 
 Being the Seventh Edition of Household Chemistry, or the 
 Science of Home Life. By Albert J. Bernavs, Ph. Dr. 
 F.C.S., Prof, of Chemistry and Practical Chemistry at St. Thomas' 
 Hospital, Medical, and Surgical College. Crown 8vo. 5s. 6d. 
 
Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Binning (R. M.) Travels in Persia, &c. 
 
 2 vols. 8vo. 1 6s. 
 
 Blanchard (S.) Yesterday and To-day in India. 
 
 By Sidney Laman Blanchard. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Contents. — Outward Bound. — The Old Times and the New. — 
 Domestic Life. — Houses and Bungalows. — Indian Servants. — 
 The Great Shoe Question. — The Garrison Hack. — The Long 
 Bow in India. — Mrs. Dulcimer's Shipwreck. — A Traveller's 
 Tale, told in a Dark Bungalow. — Punch in India. — Anglo- 
 Indian Literature. — Christmas in India. — The Seasons in 
 Calcutta. — Farmers in Muslin. — Homeward Bound. — India 
 as it Is. 
 
 Blenkinsopp (Rev. E. L.) Doctrine of Development in the 
 
 Bible and in the Church. By Rev. E. L. Blenkinsopp, M.A., 
 Rector of Springthorp. 2nd edition. 12mo. 6s. 
 
 Boilean (Major-General J. T.) 
 
 A New and Complete Set of Traverse Tables, showing the 
 Differences of Latitude and the Departures to every Minute of 
 the Quadrant and to Five Places of Decimals. Together with 
 a Table of the lengths of each Degree of Latitude and corres- 
 ponding Degree of Longitude from the Equator to the Poles ; 
 with other Tables useful to the Surveyor and Engineer. 
 Fourth Edition, thoroughly revised and corrected by the 
 Author. Royal 8vo. 12s. London, 1876. 
 
 Boulger (D. C.) Central Asian Portraits ; or the Celebrities 
 
 of the Khanates and the Neighbouring States. By Demetrius 
 Charles Boulger, M.R.A.S. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Bonlger (D. C.) The Life of Yakoob Beg, Athalik Ghazi and 
 
 Badaulet, Ameer of Kashgar. By Demetrius Charles 
 Boulger, M.R.A.S. 8vo. With Map and Appendix. 16s. 
 
 Boulger (D. C.) England and Russia in Central Asia. With 
 
 Appendices and Two Maps, one being the latest Russian 
 Official Map of Central Asia. 2 vols. 8vo. 36s. 
 
 Bowring (Sir J.) Flowery Scroll. 
 
 A Chinese Novel. Translated and Illustrated with Notes by 
 Sir J. Bowring, late H.B.M. Plenipo. China. Post 8vo. 
 10s. 6d. 
 
13, Waterloo Pla.ce, Pall Mall. 
 
 Boyd (R. Nelson). Coal Mines Inspection ; Its History and 
 
 Results. 8vo. lis. 
 
 Bradshaw (John) The Poetical Works of John Milton* 
 
 ■with Notes, explanatory and philological. By John Brad- 
 shaw, LL.D., Inspector of Schools, Madras. 2 vols., post 8vo- 
 12s. 6d. 
 
 Brandis' Forest Flora of North-Western and Central India. 
 By Db. Brandis, Inspector General of Forests to the Govern- 
 ment of India. Text and Plates. £2 18s. 
 
 Briggs (Gen. J.) India and Europe Compared. 
 
 Post 8vo. 7s. 
 
 Bright (W.) Red Book for Sergeants. 
 
 By W. Bbight, Colour-Sergeant, 37th Middlesex R.V. Fcap. 
 interleaved. Is. 
 
 Browne (J. W.) Hardware; How to Buy it for Foreign 
 
 Markets. 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Buckle (the late Capt. E.) Bengal Artillery. 
 
 A Memoir of the Services of the Bengal Artillery from the 
 formation of the Corps. By the late Capt. E. Buckle, Assist- 
 Adjut. Gen. Ben. Art. Edit, by Sib J. W. Kaye. 8vo. Lond. 
 1852. 10s. 
 
 Burke (P.) Celebrated Naval and Military Trials. 
 
 By Peteb Burke, Serjeant-at-Law. Author of " Celebrated 
 Trials connected with the Aristocracy." Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Christmas (Rev. H.) Republic of Fools (The). 
 
 Being the History of the People of Abdera in Thrace, from 
 the German of C. M. Von Wieland. By Rev. Henry Christ- 
 mas, M.A., F.R.S. 2 Vols, crown 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Christmas (Rev. H.) Sin : Its Causes and Consequences. 
 
 An attempt to Investigate the Origin, Nature, Extent and 
 Results of Moral Evil. A Series of Lent Lectures. By tha 
 Rev. Heney Chbistmas, M.A., F.R.S. Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Cochrane, (John) Hindu Law. 20s. (See page 12.) 
 
 Collette (C. H.) Henry VIII. 
 
 An Historical Sketch as affecting the Reformation in England. 
 By Chaeles Hastings Collette. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
Wm. H. Allen and Co., 
 
 Collette (C. H.) The Roman Breviary. 
 
 A Critical and Historical Review, with Copious Classified, 
 Extracts. By Charles Hastings Collette. 2nd Edition. 
 Revised and enlarged. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Cooper's Hill College. Calendar of the Royal Indian En- 
 gineering College, Cooper's Hill. Published by authority in 
 January each year. 6s. 
 
 Contents. — Staff of the College ; Prospectus for the Year ; 
 Table of Marks ; Syllabus of Course of Study ; Leave and 
 Pension Rules of Indiau Service ; Class and Prize Lists ; Past 
 Students serving in India; Entrance Examination Papers, 
 &c. 
 
 Cruise of H.M.S. "Galatea," 
 
 Captain H.R H. the Duke of Edinburgh, K.G., in 1 867—1868. 
 By the Rev. John Milker, B.A., Chaplain ; and Oswald W. 
 Briekly. Illustrated by a Photograph of H.R.H. the Duke 
 of Edinburgh ; and by Chromo-Lithographs and Graphotypes 
 from Sketches taken on the spot by O. W. Brierly. 8vo. 
 16s. 
 
 Danvers (Fred. Chas.) On Coal. 
 
 With Reference to Screening, Transport, &c 8vo. 10s. 6d, 
 
 Daunias (E.) Horses of the Sahara, and the Manners of the 
 
 Desert. By E. Daumas, General of the Division Commanding 
 at Bordeaux, Senator, &c, &c. With Commentaries by the 
 Emir Abd-el-Kadir (Authorized Edition). 8vo. 6s. 
 
 " We have rarely read a work giving a more picturesque and, at the 
 same time, practical account of the manners and customs of a people, than 
 this book on the Arabs and their horses." — Edinburgh Courant. 
 
 Doran (Dr. J.) " Their Majesties Servants" : 
 
 Annals of the English Stage. Actors, Authors, and Audiences. 
 From Thomas Bettertou to Edmund Kean. By Dr. Doran, 
 F.S. A., Author of "Table Traits," "Lives of the Queens of 
 England of the House of Hanover." &c. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 " Every page of the work is barbed with wit, and will make its way 
 
 point foremost provides entertainment for the most diverse 
 
 tastes." — Daily News. 
 
 Drury (Col. H.) The Useful Plants of India, 
 
 With Notices of their chief value in Commerce, Medicine, 
 and the Arts. By Colonel Heber Drury. Second Edition, 
 with Additions and Corrections. Royal 8vo. 16s. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 
 
 Edwards' (H. S.) The Russians At Home and the Russians 
 
 Abroad. Sketches, Unpolitical and Political, of Russian Life 
 under Alexander II. By H. Sutherland Edwards. 2 vols., 
 Crown 8vo. 21s. 
 
 Eyre, Major-General (Sir V.), K.C.S.I., C.B. The Kabul In- 
 surrection of 1841—42. Revised and corrected from Lieut. 
 Eyre's Original Manuscript. Edited by Colonel G. B. 
 Malleson, C.S.I. Crown 8vo., with Map and Illustra- 
 tions. 9s. 
 
 Fearon (A.) Kenneth Trelawny. 
 
 By Alec Fearon. Author of " Touch not the Nettle." 
 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 21s. 
 
 Forbes (Dr. Duncan) History of Chess. 
 
 From the time of the Early Invention of the Game in India, 
 till the period of its establishment in Western and Central 
 Europe. By Duncan Forbes, LL,D. 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Gazetteers of India. 
 
 Thornton, 4 vols., 8vo. £2 168. 
 8vo. 21s. 
 (N.W.P., &c.) 2 vols., 8vo. 25s. 
 
 Gazetteer of Southern India. 
 
 With the Tenasserim Provinces and Singapore. Compiled 
 from original and authentic sources. Accompanied by an 
 Atlas, including plans of all the principal towns and canton- 
 ments. Royal 8vo. with 4to. Atlas. £3 3s. 
 
 Geography of India. 
 
 Comprising an account of British India, and the various states 
 enclosed and adjoining. Fcap. pp. 250. 2s. 
 
 Geological Papers on Western India. 
 
 Including Cutch, Scinde, and the south-east coast of Arabia. 
 To which is added a Summary of the Geology of India gene- 
 rally. Edited for the Government by Henry J. Carter, 
 Assistant Surgeon, Bombay Army. Royal 8vo. with folio 
 Atlas of maps and plates ; half-bound. £2 2s. 
 
 Glyn (A. C.) History of Civilization in the Fifth Century. 
 
 Translated by permission from the French of A. Frederic 
 Ozanam, late Professor of Foreign Literature to the Faculty 
 of Letters at Paris. By Ashby C. Glyn, B.A., of the Inner 
 Temple, Barrister-at-Law. 2 vols., post 8vo. £1 Is. 
 
10 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Golclstucker (Prof. Theodore), The late. The Literary Re- 
 mains of. With a Memoir. 2 vols. 8 vo. 21s. 
 
 Grady (S. G.) Mohamedan Law of Inheritance & Contract. 
 
 8vo. 14s. (See page 11.) 
 
 Grady (S.G.) Institutes of Menu. 
 8vo. 12s. (See page 11.) 
 
 Greene (F. V.) The Russian Army and its Campaigns in 
 Turkey in 1857-L858. By F V. Geeene, First Lieutenant 
 in the Corps of Engineers, U.S. Army, and lately Military 
 Attache to the United States Legation at St. Petersburg. 8vo. 
 With Atlas. 3 -2s. 
 
 Griffith (Ralph T. H.) Birth of the War God. 
 
 A Poem. By Kalidasa. Translated from the Sanscrit into 
 English Verse. By Ralph T. H. Griffith. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Hall (E. H.) Lands of Plenty, for Health, Sport, and Profit. 
 
 British North America. A Book for all Travellers and 
 Settlers. By E. HEPrLE Hall, F.S.S. Crown 8vo., with 
 Maps. 6s. 
 
 Hall's Trigonometry. 
 
 The Elements of Plane and Spherical Trigonometry. With an 
 Appendix, containing the solution of the Problems in Nautical 
 Astronomy. For the use of Schools. By the Rev. T. G. 
 Hall, M.A., Professor of Mathematics in King's College, 
 London. 12mo. 2s. 
 
 Hamilton's Hedaya. 
 
 A new edition, with the obsolete passages omitted, and a copious 
 Index added by S. G. Grady. 8vo. £l 15s. (See page 11.) 
 
 Handbook of Reference to the Maps of India. 
 
 Giving the Lat. and Long, of places of note. 18mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 * # * This will be found a valuable Companion to Messrs. Allen Sf Co.'s 
 
 Maps of India. 
 
 Harcourt (Maj. A. F. P.) Down by the Drawle. 
 
 By Majok A. F. P. Harcourt, Bengal Staff Corps, author of 
 " Kooloo, Lahoul, and Spiti," " The Shakespeare Argosy," &c. 
 2 Vols, crown 8vo. 21s. 
 
 Hough (Lieut.-Col. W.) Precedents in Military Law. 
 
 8vo. cloth. 25s. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 11 
 
 Hughes (Rev. T. P.) Notes on Muhammadanism. 
 
 Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Fcap. 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Hutton (J.) Thugs and Daeoits of India. 
 
 A Popular Account of the Thugs and Daeoits, the Hereditary 
 Garotters and Gang Robbers of India. By James Hutton. 
 Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 India Directory (The). 
 
 For the Guidance of Commanders of Steamers and Sailing 
 Vessels. Founded upon the Work of the late Captain James 
 Horsburgh, F.R.S. 
 
 Part I. — The East Indies, and Interjacent Ports of Africa 
 and South America. Revised, Extended, and Illustrated with 
 Charts of Winds, Currents, Passages, Variation, and Tides. 
 By Commander Alfred Ddndas Taylor, F.R.G.S., Superin- 
 tendent of Marine Surveys to the Governmentof India. £1 18s. 
 
 Part II. — The China Sea, with the Ports of Java, Australia 
 and Japan and the Indian Archipelago Harbours, as well as 
 those of New Zealand. Illustrated with Charts of the Winds, 
 Currents, Passages, &c. By the same. {In preparation.) 
 
 Indian and Military Law. 
 
 Mahommedan Law of Inheritance, &c. A Manual of the 
 Mahommedan Law of Inheritance and Contract ; comprising the 
 Doctrine of the Soonee and Sheca Schools, and based upon the text 
 of Sir H. W. Macnaghten's Principles and Precedents, together 
 with the Decisions of the Privy Council and High Courts of" the 
 Presidencies in India. For the use of Schools and Students. By 
 Standish Gbove Geady, Barrister-at-Law, Reader of Hindoo, 
 Mahommedan, and Indian Law to the Inns of Court. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 Hedaya, or Guide, a Commentary on the Mussulman Laws, 
 translated by order of the G-overnor- General and Council of Bengal. 
 By Charles Hamilton. Second Edition, with Preface and Index 
 by Standish Gbote Geady. 8vo. £1 15s. 
 
 Institutes of Menu in English The Institutes of Hindu 
 Law or the Ordinances of Menu, according to Gloss of Collucca. 
 Comprising the Indian System of Duties, Religious and Civil, 
 verbally translated from the Original, with a Preface by Sib William 
 Jones, and collated with the Sanscrit Text by Geayes Chamney 
 Hattghton, M.A., F.R.S., Professor of Hindu Literature in the 
 East India College. New edition, with Preface and Index by 
 Standish G. Geady, Barrister-at-Law, and Reader of Hindu, 
 Mahommedan, and Indian Law to the Inns of Court. 8vo., cloth. 12s. 
 
 Indian Code of Criminal Procedure. Being Act X of 1872, 
 Passed by the Governor- General of India in Council on the 25th of 
 April, 1872. 8vo. 12s. 
 
12 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Indian Code of Civil Procedure. In the form of Questions 
 and Answers, with Explanatory and Illustrative Notes. By 
 Angelo J. Lewis, Barrister-at-law. 12mo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Indian Penal Code. In the Form of Questions and Answers. 
 With Explanatory and Illustrative Notes. Bx Angelo J. Lewis, 
 Barrister-at-Law. Post 8vo. 7b. 6d. 
 
 Hindu Law. Principally with reference to such portions of it 
 as concern the Administration of Justice in the Courts in India. 
 By Sie Thomas Stbange, late Chief Justice of Madras. 2 vols. 
 Royal 8vo., 1830. 24s. 
 
 Hindu Law. Defence of the Daya Bhaga. Notice of the 
 Case on Prosoono Cooinar Tajore's Will. Judgment of the Judicial 
 Committee of the Privy Conncil. Examination of such Judgment. 
 By John Cochbane, Barrister-at-Law. Royal 8vo. 20s. 
 
 Law and Customs of Hindu Castes, within the Dekhan Pro- 
 vinces subject to the Presidency of Bombay, chiefly affecting Civil 
 Suits. By Abthttb Steele. Royal 8vo. £1 Is. 
 
 Chart of Hindu Inheritance. With an Explanatory Treatise, 
 By Almabic Rumbey. 8vo. 6s. 6d. 
 
 Manual of Military Law. For all ranks of the Army, Militia 
 and Volunteer Services. By Colonel J. K. Pipojt, Assist. Adjutant 
 General at Head Quarters, & J. F. Collieb, Esq., of the Inner 
 Temple, Barrister-at-Law. Third and Revised Edition. Pocket 
 size. 5s. 
 
 Precedents in Military Law ; including the Practice of Courts- 
 Martial ; the Mode of Conducting Trials ; the Duties of Officers at 
 Military Courts of Inquests, Courts of Inquiry, Courts of Requests, 
 &c., &c. The following are a portion of the Contents :— 
 
 1. Military Law. 2. Martial Law. 3. Courts-Martial. 4. 
 Courts of Inquiry. 5. Courts of Inquest. 6. Courts of Request. 
 7. Forms of Courts-Martial. 8. Precedents of Military Law. 
 9. Trials of Arson to Rape (Alphabetically arranged.) 10. Rebellions. 
 11. Riots. 12. Miscellaneous. By Lieut.-Col. W. Houqh, late 
 Deputy Judge-Advocate-G-eneral, Bengal Army, and Author of 
 Beveral Works on Courts-Martial. One thick 8vo. vol. 25s. 
 
 The Practice of Courts Martial. By Hough & Long. Thick 8vo. 
 London, 1825. 26s. 
 
 Indian Criminal Law and Procedure, 
 
 Including the Procedure in the High Courts, as well as that in 
 the Courts not established by Royal Charter ; with Forms of 
 Charges and Notes on Evidence, illustrated by a large number 
 of English Cases, and Cases decided hi the High Courts of 
 
13, Wateeloo Place, Pall Mall. 13 
 
 India; and an Appendix of selected Acts passed by the 
 Legislative Council relating to Criminal matters. By M. H. 
 Starling, Esq., LL.B. & F. B. Constable, M.A. Third 
 edition. 8vo. £2 2s. 
 
 Indian Infanticide. 
 
 Its Origin, Progress, and Suppression. By John Cave-Brown, 
 M.A. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Jackson (Lt.-Col. B.) Military Surveying-, &c. 8vo. 14s. 
 (See page 20). 
 
 Jackson (Lowis D'A.) Hydraulic Manual and Working" 
 Tables, Hydraulic and Indian Meteorological Statistics. 
 
 Published under the patronage of the Eight Honourable the 
 Secx-etary of State for India. By Lowis D'A. Jackson. 8vo. 
 28s. 
 
 Jackson (Lowis D'A.) Canal and Culvert Tables. 
 
 Based on the Formula of Kutter, under a Modified Classi- 
 fication, with Explanatory Text and Examples. By Lowis 
 D'A. Jackson, A.M.I.C.E., author of " Hydraulic Manual 
 and Statistics," &c. Boy. 8vo. 28s. 
 
 Jerrold (Blanchard) at Home in Paris. 
 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 16s. 
 
 Joyner (Mrs.) Cyprus : Historical and Descriptive. 
 
 Adapted from the German of Herr Franz Von Loher. With 
 much additional matter. By Mrs. A. Batson Joiner. 
 Crown 8vo. With 2 Maps. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Kaye (Sir J. W.) The Sepoy War in India. 
 
 A History of the Sepoy War in India, 1857—1858. By Sir 
 John William Kaye, Author of " The History of the War in 
 Afghanistan." Vol. I, 8vo. 18s. Vol. II. £1. Vol. III. £1. 
 
 Contents of Vol. I.: — Book I. — Introductory. — The Con- 
 quest of the Punjab and Pegu. — The " Right of Lapse." — The 
 Annexation of Oude. — Progress of Englishism. Book II. — The 
 Sepoy Army : its Rise, Progress, and Decline. — Early His- 
 tory of the Native Army. — Deteriorating Influences. — The 
 Sindh Mutinies. — The Punjaub Mutinies. Discipline of the 
 Bengal Army. Book III. — The Outbreak of the Mutiny. — 
 Lord Canning and his Council. — The Oude Administration and 
 the Persian War. — The Rising of the Storm. — The First 
 Mutiny. — Progress of Mutiny. — Excitement in Upper India. — 
 Bursting of the Storm. — Appendix. 
 
 Contents of Vol II. : — Book IV. — The Rising in the 
 
14 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 North-west.— The Delhi History.' — The Outbreak at Meerut. 
 — The Seizure of Delhi. — Calcutta in May. — Last Days of 
 General Anson. — The March upon Delhi Book V. — Pro- 
 gress of Rebellion in Upper India — Benares and Alla- 
 habad. — Cawnpore. — The March to Cawnpore. — Re-occupation 
 of Cawnpore. Book VI. — The Punjab and Delhi. — First 
 Conflicts in the Punjab. — Peshawur and Rawul Pinder. — Pro- 
 gress of Events in the Punjab. — Delhi. — First Weeks of the 
 Siege. — Progress of the Siege. — The Last Succours from the 
 Punjab. 
 
 Contents of Vol III. : — Book VII. — Bengal, Behar, 
 and the North-west Provinces. — At the Seat of Govern- 
 ment. — The Insurrection in Behar. — The Siege of Arrah. — 
 Behar and Bengal. Book VIII. — Mutiny and Rebellion 
 in the North-west Provinces. — Agra in May. — Insurrec- 
 tion in the Districts. — Bearing of the Native Chiefs. — Agra in 
 June, July, August and September. Book IX. — Lucknow 
 and Delhi. — Rebellion in Oude. — Revolt in the Districts. — 
 Lucknow in June and July. — The siege and Capture of Delhi. 
 
 Kaye (Sir J. W.) History of the War in Afghanistan. 
 
 New edition. 3 Vols. Crown 8vo. £1. bs. 
 
 Kaye (Sir J. W.) H. St. G. Tucker's Life and Correspondence. 
 
 8vo. 10s. 
 
 Kaye (Sir J. W.) Memorials of Indian Governments. 
 
 By H. St. George Tucker. 8vo. 10s. 
 
 Keatinge (Mrs.) English Homes in India. 
 
 By Mrs. Keatinge. Part I. — The Three Loves. Part II. — 
 The Wrong Turning. Two vols., Post 8vo. 16s. 
 
 Keene (H. G.) Mogul Empire. 
 
 From the death of Aurungzeb to the overthrow of the Mahratta 
 Power, by Henry George Keene, B.C.S. Second edition. 
 With Map. 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 This Work Jills up a blank between the ending of Elphinstone's 
 and the commencement of Thorntons Histories. 
 
 Keene (H. G.) Administration in India. 
 
 Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Keene (H. G.) Peepul Leaves. 
 
 Poems written in India. Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Keene (H. G.). The Turks in India. 
 
 Historical Chapters on the Administration of Hindostan by 
 the Chugtai Tartar, Babar, and his Descendants. 12s. 6d. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 15 
 
 Latham (Dr. It. G.) Russian and Turk, 
 
 From a Geographical, Ethnological, and Historical Point of 
 View. 8vo. 18s. 
 
 Laurie (Col. W. F. B.) Our Burmese Wars and Relations 
 
 with Burma. With a Summary of Events from 1826 to 
 1879, including a Sketch of King Theebau's Progress. Witli 
 various Local, Statistical, and Commercial Information. By 
 Colonel W. F. B. Laurie, Author of " Rangoon," "Narrative 
 of the Second Burmese War," &c. 8vo. With Plans and Map. 
 16s. 
 
 Lee (F. G.) The Church under Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 An Historical Sketch. By the Eev. E. G. Lee, D.D. Two 
 Vols., Crown Svo. 21s. 
 
 Lee (F. G.) The Words from the Cross: Seven Sermons 
 
 for Lent, Passion-Tide, and Holy Week. By the Eev. F. G. 
 Lee, D.D. Third edition revised. Fcap. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Lee (Dr. W. N.) Drain of Silver to the East. 
 
 Post Svo. 8s. 
 Lewin (T. H.) Wild Races of the South Eastern Frontier of 
 
 India. Including an Account of the Loshai Country. Ey Capt. 
 T. H. Lewin, Dep. Comm. of Hill Tracts. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Lewis (A. J.) Indian Penal Code 
 
 In the Form of Questions and Answers. With Explanatory 
 and Illustrative Notes. By Angelo J. Lewis. Post 8vo. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 Lewis (A. J.) Indian Code of Civil Procedure. 
 
 In the Form of Questions and Answers. With Explanatory 
 and Illustrative Notes. By Angelo J.Lewis. Post8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 Leyden and Erskine's Baber. 
 
 Memoirs of Zehir-ed-Din Mtjhammed Baeer, Emperor of 
 Hindustan-, written by himself in the Jaghatai Turki, and 
 translated partly by the late John Leyden, Esq., M.D., and 
 partly by William Erskine, Esq., with Notes and a Geo- 
 graphical and Historical Introduction, together with a Map of 
 the Countries between the Oxus and Jaxartes, and a Memoir 
 regarding its construction. By Charles Waddington, of the 
 East India Company's Engineers. 4to. Lond. 3 826. £1 5s. 
 
 Liancourt's and Pincott's Primitive and Universal Laws of 
 
 the Formation and development of language ; a Eational and 
 Inductive System founded on the Natural Basis of Onomatops. 
 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
16 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Loekwood (Ed.) Natural History, Sport and Travel. 
 
 By Edwakd Lockwood, Bengal Civil Service, late Magistrate 
 of Monghyr. Crown 8vo. With numerous Illustrations. 9s. 
 
 Lovell (Vice-Adm.) Personal Narrative of Events from 
 
 1799 to 1815. With Anecdotes. By the late Vice-Adm. Wm. 
 Stanhope Lovell, R.N. , K.H. Second edition. Crown Svo. 4s. 
 
 McBean (S.) England, Egypt, Palestine & India by Railway. 
 
 Popularly Explained. Crown yvo., with a coloured Map. 4s. 
 
 MacGregor (Col. C. M.) Narrative of a Journey through, 
 
 the Province of Khorassan and on the N. W. Frontier of 
 Afghanistan in 1875. By Colonel C. M. MacG-regor, 
 C.S.I., CLE., Bengal Staff Corps. 2 vols. 8vo. With 
 map and numerous illustrations. 30s. 
 
 Malleson (Col. G. B.) Final French Struggles in India 
 and on the Indian Seas. Including an Account of the 
 Capture of the Isles of France and Bourbon, and Sketches 
 of the most eminent Foreign Adventurers in India up to 
 the period of that Capture. With an Appendix containing 
 an Account of the Expedition from India to Egypt in 1 801. 
 By Colonel G. B. Malleson, C.S.I. Crown 8vo." 10s. 6d. 
 
 Malleson (Col. G. B.) History of the Indian Mutiny, 
 
 1857-1858, commencing from the close of the Second 
 Volume of Sir John Kaye's History of the Sepoy War. 
 Vol.1. 8vo. With Map. 20s. 
 
 Contents. Book VII. — Calcutta in May and June. — 
 William Tayler and Vincent Eyre. — How Bihar and Calcutta 
 were saved. Book VIII. — Mr. Colvin and Agra. — Jhansi 
 and Bandalkhand. — Colonel Durand and Holkar. — Sir George 
 Lawrence and Rajputana. — Brigadier Polwhele's great battle 
 and its results. — Bareli, Rohilkhand, and Farakhabad. Book 
 IX. — The relation of the annexation of Oudh to the Mutiny. 
 — Sir Henry Lawrence and the Mutiny in Oudh. — The siege 
 of Lakhnao. — The first relief of Lakhnao. 
 
 Vol. II. — Including the Storming of Delhi, the Relief 
 of Lucknow, the Two Battles of Cawnpore, the Campaign 
 in Rohilkhand, and the movements of the several Columns 
 in the N.W. Provinces, the Azimgurh District, and on the 
 Eastern and South-Eastern Frontiers. 8vo. With 4 Plans. 
 20s. 
 
 Vol. III. — In the Press. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 17 
 
 Malleson (Col. G. B.) History of Afghanistan, from the 
 Earliest Period to the Outbreak of the War of 1878. 8vo. 
 2nd Edition. With Map. 18s. 
 
 Malleson (Col. G. B.) Herat : The Garden and Granary of 
 
 Central Asia. With Map and Index. 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Manning (Mrs.) Ancient and Mediaeval India. 
 
 Being the History, Eeligion, Laws, Caste, Manners and 
 Customs, Language, Literature, Poetry, Philosophy, Astronomy, 
 Algebra, Medicine, Architecture, Manufactures, Commerce, 
 &c, of the Hindus, taken from their writings. Amongst the 
 works consulted and gleaned from may be named the Rig Veda, 
 Sama Veda, Yajur Veda, Sathapatha Brahmana, Bhagavat 
 Gita, The Puranas, Code of Manu, Code of Yajnavalkya, 
 Mitakshara ; Daya Bhaga, Mahabharata, Atriya, Charaka, 
 Susruta, Ramayana, Baghu Vansa, Bhattikavya, Sakuntala, 
 Vikramorvasi, Malati and Madhava, Mudra Rakshasa, Ratna- 
 vali, Kumara Sambhava, Prabodha, Chandrodaya, Megha Duta, 
 Gita Govinda, Panchatantra, Hitopadesa, Katha Sarit, Sagara, 
 Ketala, Panchavinsati, Dasa Kumara Charita, &c. By Mrs. 
 Manning, with Illustrations. 2 vols., 8vo. 30s. 
 
 Mayhew (Edward) Illustrated Horse Doctor. 
 
 Being an Accurate and Detailed Account, accompanied by 
 more than 400 Pictorial Representations, characteristic of the 
 various Diseases to which the Equine Race are subjected; 
 together with the latest Mode of Treatment, and all the re- 
 quisite Prescriptions written in Plain English. By Edward 
 Mayhew, M.R.C.V.S. 8vo. 18s. 6d. 
 
 Contents. — The Brain and Nervous System. — The Eyes. — 
 The Mouth.— The Nostrils.— The Throat.— The Chest and its 
 contents. — The Stomach, Liver, &c. — The Abdomen. — The 
 Urinary Organs. — The Skin. — Specific Diseases. — Limbs. — 
 The Feet. — Injuries. — Operations. 
 
 "The book contains nearly 600 pages of valuable matter, which 
 reflects great credit on its author, and, owing to its practical details, the 
 result of deep scientific research, deserves a place in the library of medical, 
 veterinary, and non-professional readers." — Meld. 
 
 " The book furnishes at once the bane and the antidote, as the 
 drawings show the horse not only suffering from every kind of disease, but 
 in the different stages of it, while the alphabetical summary at the end gives 
 the cause, symptoms and treatment of each." — Illustrated London News. 
 
 Mayhew (Edward) Illustrated Horse Management. 
 
 Containing descriptive remarks upon Anatomy, Medicine, 
 Shoeing, Teeth, Food, Vices, Stables; likewise a plain account 
 
18 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 of the situation, nature, and value of the various points ; 
 together with comments on grooms, dealers, breeders, breakers, 
 and trainers ; Embellished with more than 400 engravings 
 from original designs made expressly for this work. By E. 
 Mayhew. A new Edition, revised and improved by J. I. 
 Lupton. M.B.C.V.S. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Contents. — The body of the horse anatomically considered. 
 Physic. — The mode of administering it, and minor operations. 
 Shoeing. — Its origin, its uses, and its varieties. The Teeth. 
 — Their natural growth, and the abuses to which they are liable. 
 
 Food. — The fittest time for feeding, and the kind of food 
 which the horse naturally consumes. The evils which are 
 occasioned by modern stables. The faults inseparable from 
 stables. The so-called " incapacitating vices," which are the 
 results of injury or of disease. Stables as they should be. 
 Grooms. — Their prejudices, their injuries, and their duties. 
 Points. — Their relative importance and where to look for their 
 development. Breeding. — Its inconsistencies and its disap- 
 pointments. Breaking and Training. — Their errors and 
 their results. 
 
 Mayhew (Henry) German Life and Manners. 
 
 As seen in Saxony. With an account of Town Life — Village 
 Life — Fashionable Life — Married Life — School and University 
 Life, &c. Illustrated with Songs and Pictures of the Student 
 Customs at the University of Jena. By Henry Mayhew, 
 2 vols., 8vo., with numerous illustrations. 18s. 
 
 A Popular Edition of the above. With illustrations. Cr. 8vo. 7s. 
 " Full of original thought and observation, and may be studied with pro- 
 fit by both German and English — especially by the Gterm&n."Athencetim. 
 
 McCosh (J.) Advice to Officers in India. 
 By John McCosh, M.D. Post 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Meadow (T.) Notes on China. 
 
 Desultory Notes on the Government and People of China and 
 on the Chinese Language. By T. T. Meadows. 8vo. 9s. 
 
 Military Works — chiefly issued by the Government. 
 
 Field Exercises and Evolutions of Infantry. Pocket edition, Is. 
 
 Queen's Regulations and Orders for the Army. Corrected to 
 
 1874. 8vo. 3s. 6d. Interleaved, 5s. 6d. Pocket Edition, Is. 
 
 Musketry Regulations, as used at Hythe. Is. 
 
 Dress Regulations for the Army. 1875. Is. M. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 19 
 
 Infantry Sword Exercise. 1875. 6d. 
 Infantry Bugle Sounds. 6d. 
 
 Handbook of Battalion Drill. By Lieut. H. C. Slack. 2s. ; 
 
 or with Company Drill, 2s. 6d. 
 Handbook of Brigade Drill. By Lieut. H. C. Slack. 3s. 
 
 Bed Book for Sergeants. By William Beight, Colour- 
 Sergeant, 37th Middlesex R.V. Is. 
 
 Handbook of Company Drill ; also of Skirmishing, Battalion, 
 and Shelter Trench Drill. By Lieut. Chables Slack. Is. 
 
 Elementary and Battalion Drill. Condensed and Illustrated, 
 together with duties of Company Officers, Markers, &c., in Batta- 
 lion. By Captain Malton. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Cavalry Begulations. For the Instruction, Formations, and 
 Movements of Cavalry. Royal 8vo. 4s. 6d. 
 
 Cavalry Sword, Carbine, Pistol and Lance Exercises, together 
 
 with Field Gun Drill. Pocket Edition. Is. 
 Manual of Artillery Exercises, 1873. 8vo. 5s. 
 Manual of Field Artillery Exercises. 1877. 3s. 
 Standing Orders for Royal Artillery. 8vo, 3s. 
 
 Principles and Practice of Modern Artillery. By Lt.-Col. C. 
 
 H. Owen, R.A. 8vo. Illustrated. 15s. 
 Artillerist's Manual and British Soldiers' Compendium. By 
 
 Major F. A. Griffiths. 11th Edition. 5s. 
 Compendium of Artillery Exercises — Smooth Bore, Field, and 
 
 Garrison Artillery for Reserve Forces. By Captain J. M. McKenzie. 
 
 3s. 6d. 
 
 Principles of Gunnery. By John T. Hyde, M.A., late Pro- 
 fessor of Fortification and Artillery, Royal Indian Military College, 
 Addiscombe. Second edition, revised and enlarged. With many 
 Plates and Cuts, and Photograph of Armstrong Gun. Royal 8vo. 
 14s. 
 
 Notes on Gunnery. By Captain Goodeve. Revised Edition. 
 Is. 
 
 Text Book of the Construction and Manufacture of Rifled 
 Ordnance in the British Service. By Stoney & Jones. Second 
 Edition. Paper, 3s. 6d., Cloth, 4s. 6d. 
 
 Handbooks of the 9, 16, and 64-Pounder R. M. L. 
 Converted Guns. 6d. each. 
 
 Handbook of the 9 and 10-inch R. M. L. Guns. 6d. each. 
 
 Handbook of 40-Pounder B. L. Gun. 6d. 
 
 Handbooks of 9-inch Rifle Muzzle Loading Guns of IS tons, 
 and the 10-inch gun of 18 tons. 6d. each. 
 
20 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Treatise on Fortification and Artillery. By Major Hector 
 Steaith. Revised and re-arranged by Thomas Cook, R.N., by 
 John T. Hyde, M.A. 7th Edition. Royal 8vo. Illustrated and 
 Four Hundred Plans, Cuts, &c. £2 2s. 
 
 Military Surveying and Field Sketching. The Various 
 Methods of Contouring, Levelling, Sketching without Instruments, 
 Scale of Shade, Examples in Military Drawing, &c, &c., &c. As at 
 present taught in the Military Colleges. By Major W. H. Richaeds, 
 55th Regiment, Chief Garrison Instructor in India, Late Instruc- 
 tor in Military Surveying, Royal Military College,- Sandhurst. 
 Second Edition, Revised and Corrected. 12s. 
 
 Treatise on Military Surveying ; including Sketching in the 
 
 Field, Plan-Drawing, Levelling, Military Reconnaissance, &c. By 
 
 Licut.-Col. Basil Jackson, late of the Royal Staff Corps. The 
 Fifth Edition. 8vo. Illustrated by Plans, &c. 14s. 
 
 Instruction in Military Engineering. Vol. 1., Part III. 4s. 
 
 Elementary Principles of Fortification. A Text-Book for 
 Military Examinations. By J. T. Hyde, M.A. Royal 8vo. With 
 numerous Plans and Illustrations. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Military Train Manual. Is. 
 
 The Sappers' Manual. Compiled for the use of Engineer 
 Volunteer Corps. By Col. W. A. Fbankxand, R.E. With 
 numerous Illustrations. 2s. 
 
 Ammunition. A descriptive treatise on the different Projectiles 
 Charges, Fuzes, Rockets, &c, at present in use for Land and Sea 
 Service, and on other war stores manufactured in the Royal 
 Laboratory. 6s. 
 
 Hand-book on the Manufacture and Proof of Gunpowder, as 
 carried on at the Royal Gunpowder Factory, Waltham Abbey. 5s. 
 
 Regulations for the Training of Troops for service in the Field 
 
 and for the conduct of Peace Manoeuvres. 2s. 
 Hand-book Dictionary for the Militia and Volunteer Services, 
 
 Containing a variety of useful information, Alphabetically arranged. 
 
 Pocket size, 3s. 6d. ; by post, 3s. 8d. 
 
 Gymnastic Exercises, System of Fencing, and Exercises for 
 the Regulation Clubs. In one volume. Crown 8vo. 1877. 2s. 
 
 Army Equipment. Prepared at the Topographical and 
 Statistical Department, War Office. By Col. Sir Heney James, 
 R.E., F.R.S., &c, Director. 
 
 Past. 1. — Cavalry. Compiled by Lieut. H. M, Hoziee, 2nd Life 
 
 Guards. Royal 8vo. 4s. 
 Paet 4. — Military Train. Compiled by Lieut. H. M. Hoziee, 
 
 2nd Life Guards. Royal 8vo. 2s. 6d. 
 Paet 5. — Infantry. Compiled by Capt. F. Maetin Peteie. 
 
 Royal 8vo. With Plates. 5s. 
 
13, Waterloo Plage, Pali, Mall. 21 
 
 Part 6. — Commissariat. Compiled by Lieut. H. M. Hozier, 2nd 
 
 Life Guards. Royal 8vo. Is. 6d. 
 Pabt 7. — Hospital Service. Compiled by Capt. Martin Peteie. 
 
 Royal 8vo. With Plates. 5s. 
 
 Text-Book on the Theory and Motion of Projectiles ; the His- 
 tory, Manufacture, and Explosive Force of Gunpowder ; the History 
 of Small Arms. For Officers sent to School of Musketry. Is. 6d. 
 
 Notes on Ammunition. 4th Edition. 1877. 2s. 6d. 
 
 Regulations and Instructions for Encampments. 6d. 
 
 Rules for the Conduct of the War Game. 2s. 
 
 Medical Regulations for the Army, Instructions for the Army, 
 Comprising duties of Officers, Attendants, and Nurses, &c. Is. 6d. 
 
 Purveyors' Regulations and Instructions, for Guidance of 
 Officers of Purveyors' Department of the Army, 3s. 
 
 Priced Vocabulary of Stores used in Her Majesty's Service. 4s. 
 
 Transport of Sick and Wounded Troops. By Dr. Longmore. 5s. 
 
 Precedents in Military Law. By Lt-Col. W. Hough. 8vo. 25s. 
 
 The Practice of Courts-Martial, by Hough & Long. 8vo. 26s. 
 
 Manual of Military Law. For all ranks of the Army, Militia, 
 and Volunteer Services. By Colonel J. K. Pipon, and «t. F. Col- 
 lier, Esq. Third and Revised Edition. Pocket size. 5s. 
 
 Regulations applicable to the European Officer in India. Con- 
 taining Staff Corps Rules, Staff Salaries, Commands, Furlough and 
 Retirement Regulations, &c. By George E. Cochrane, late 
 Assistant Military Secretary, India Office. 1 vol., post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Reserve Force; Guide to Examinations, for the use of Captains 
 and Subalterns of Infantry, Militia, and Rifle Volunteers, and for Ser- 
 jeants of Volunteers. By Capt. G. H. Greaves. 2nd edit. 2s. 
 
 The Military Encyclopaedia ; referring exclusively to the 
 Military Sciences, Memoirs of distinguished Soldiers, and the Narra- 
 tives of Remarkable Battles. By J. H. Stocqtjelee. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 The Operations of War Explained and Illustrated. By Col. 
 Hamlet. New Edition Revised, with Plates. Royal 8vo. 30s. 
 
 Lessons of War. As taught by the Great Masters ana Others ; 
 Selected and Arranged from the various operations in War. By 
 France James Soady, Lieut.-Col., R.A. Royal 8vo. 21s. 
 
 The Soldiers' Pocket Book for Field Service. By Col. Sir 
 Garnet J. Wolseley. 2nd Edition. Revised and Enlarged. 4s, 6d. 
 
 The Surgeon's Pocket Book, an Essay on the best Treatment of 
 Wounded in War. By Surgeon Major J. H. Porter. 7b. 6d. 
 
22 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 A Precis of Modern Tactics. By Colonel Home. 8vo. 8s. 6d. 
 
 Armed Strength of Austria. By Capt. Cooke. 2 pts. £1 2s. 
 
 Armed Strength of Denmark. 3s. 
 
 Armed Strength of Russia. Translated from the German. 7s. 
 
 Armed Strength of Sweden and Norway. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Armed Strength of Italy. 5s. 6d. 
 
 Armed Strength of Germany. Part I. 8s. 6d. 
 
 The Franco-German War of 1870—71. By Capt. C. H. 
 Ciabke. Vol. I. £1 63. Sixth Section. 5s. Seventh Section 
 6s. Eighth Section. 3s. Ninth Section. 4s. 6d. Tenth Section. 6s. 
 Eleventh Section. 5s. 3d. Twelfth Section. 4s. 6d. 
 
 The Campaign of J 866 in Germany. Royal 8 vo. With Atlas, 21s. 
 Celebrated Naval and Military Trials. By Peter Burke. 
 Post 8vo., cloth. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Military Sketches. By SirLascrlles Wraxall. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Military Life of the Duke of Wellington. By Jackson and 
 Scott. 2 Vols. 8vo. Maps, Plans, &c. 12s. 
 
 Single Stick Exercise of the Aldershot Gymnasium. 6d. 
 
 Treatise on Military Carriages, and other Manufactures of the 
 Boyal Carriage Department. 5s. 
 
 Steppe Campaign Lectures. 2s. 
 
 Manual of Instructions for Army Surgeons. Is 
 
 Regulations for Army Hospital Corps. 9d. 
 
 Manual of Instructions for Non- Commissioned Officers, Army 
 
 Hospital Corps. 2s. 
 Handbook for Military Artificers. 3s. 
 Instructions for the use of Auxiliary Cavalry. 2s. 6d. 
 Equipment Regulations for the Army. 5s. 6d. 
 Statute Law relating to the Army. Is. 3d. 
 Regulations for Commissariat and Ordnance Department 2s. 
 Regulations for the Commissariat Department. Is. 6d. 
 Regulations for the Ordnance Department. Is. 6d. 
 
 Artillerist's Handbook of Reference for the use of the Royal 
 and Reserve Artillery, by Wixl and Daiton. 5s. 
 
 An Essay on the Principles and Construction of Military 
 Bridges, by Sib Howaed Douglas. 1853. 15s. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. S3 
 
 Mill's History of British India, 
 
 With .Notes and Continuation. By H. H. Wilson. 9 vols, 
 cr. 8vo. £9 10s. 
 
 Morgan's (Lady) Memoirs. 
 
 Autobiography, Diaries and Correspondence. 2 Vols. 8vo., 
 with Portraits. 18s. 
 
 Morrison (Rev. R.) View of China, 
 
 For Philological Purposes. Containing a Sketch of Chinese 
 Chronology, Geography, Government, Religion, and Customs. 
 Designed for the use of Persons who study the Chinese 
 Language. By Rev. R. Morrison. 4to. Macao, 18 J 7. 6s. 
 
 Muller's (Max) Rig-Veda-Sanhita. 
 
 The Sacred Hymns of the Brahmins ; together with the 
 Commentary of Sayanacharya. Published under the Patron- 
 age of the Right Honourable the Secretary of State for India in 
 Council. 6 vols., 4to. £2 10s. per volume. 
 
 Mysteries of the Vatican ; 
 
 Or Crimes of the Papacy. From the German of Dr. Theodore 
 Greisenger. 2 Vols, post 8 vo. 21s. 
 
 Nirgis and Bismillah. 
 
 Nirgls; a Tale of the Indian Mutiny, from the Diary of a 
 Slave Girl : and Bismillah ; or, Happy Days in Cashmere. 
 By Hafiz Allard. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Notes on the North Western Provinces of India. 
 
 By a District Officer. 2nd Edition. Post 8vo., cloth. 5s. 
 
 Contents. — Area and Population. — Soils.— Crops. — Irriga- 
 tion. — Rent. — Rates. — Land Tenures. 
 
 Oshorne (Mrs. W.) Pilgrimage to Mecca (A). 
 
 By the Nawab Sikandar Begum of Bhopal. Translated from 
 the Original Urdu. By Mrs. Willoughby Osborne. Followed 
 by a Sketch of the History of Bhopal. By Col. Willoughby- 
 Osborne, C.B. With Photographs, and dedicated, by permis- 
 sion, to Her Majesty, Queen Victoria. Post 8vo. £1. Is. 
 This is a higldy important book, not only for its literary merit, and the 
 
 information it contains, but also from the fact of its being the first work 
 
 written by an Indian lady, and that lady a Queen. 
 
 Owen (Sidney) India on the Eve of the British Conquest. 
 
 A Historical Sketch. By Sidney Owen, M.A. Reader in 
 Indian Law and History in the University of Oxford. 
 Formerly Professor of History in the Elphinstone College, 
 Bombay. Post 8vo. 8s. 
 
Q4 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Oxenham (Rev. H. N.) Catholic Eschatology and TTniver- 
 salism. Au Essay on the Doctrine of Future Retribution. 
 Second Edition, revised and enlarged. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Oxenham (Rev. H. N.) Catholic Doctrine of the Atonement. 
 
 An Historical Inquiry into its Development in the Church, 
 with an Introduction on the Principle of Theological Develop- 
 ment. By H. Nutcomee Oxenham, M.A. 2nd Edit. 8vo. 
 10s. 6d. 
 
 " It is one of the ablest and probably one of the most charmingly 
 written treatises on the subject which exists in our language." — Times. 
 
 Oxenham (H. N.) The First Age of Christianity and the Church. 
 
 By John Ignatius Dollinger, D.D., Professor of Ecclesiastical 
 History in the University of Munich, &c, &c. Translated 
 from the German bv Henry Nutcombe Oxenham, M.A., late 
 Scholar of Baliol College, Oxford. Third Edition. 2 vols. 
 Crown 8vo. 18s. 
 Ozanam's (A. F.) Civilisation in the Fifth Century. From 
 the French. By The Hon. A. C. Glyn. 2 Vols., post 8vo. 
 21s. 
 
 Pebody (Charles) Authors at Work. 
 
 Francis Jeffrey — Sir Walter Scott — Robert Burns — Charles 
 Lamb — R. B. Sheridan — Sydney Smith — Macaulay — Byron 
 Wordsworth — Tom Moore — Sir James Mackintosh. Post 8vo. 
 10s. 6d. 
 
 Pelly (Sir Lewis). The Miracle Play of Hasan and Husain. 
 
 Collected from Oral Tradition by Colonel Sir Lewis Pelly, 
 K.C.B., K.C.S.I., formerly serving in Persia as Secretary 
 of Legation, and Political Resident in the Persian Gulf. 
 Revised, with Explanatory Notes, by Arthur N. Wol- 
 laston, H.M. Indian (Home) Service, Translator of Anwar- 
 i-Suhaili, &c. 2 Vols, royal 8vo. 32s. 
 
 Pipon and Collier's Manual of Military Law. 
 
 By Colonel J. K. Pipon, and J. F. Collier, Esq., of the 
 Inner Temple, Barrister-at-Law. 5s. 
 
 Pollock (Field Marshal Sir George) Life & Correspondence. 
 
 By C. R. Low. 8vo. With portrait. 18s. 
 
 Pope (G. U.) Text-hook of Indian History ; with Geogra- 
 phical Notes, Genealogical Tables, Examination Questions, 
 and Chronological, Biographical, Geographical, and General 
 Indexes. For the use of Schools, Colleges, and Private Stu- 
 dents. By the Rev. G. U. Pope, D D., Principal of Bishop 
 
13, Waterloo Pla.ce, Pall Mall. 25 
 
 Cotton's Grammar School and College, Bangalore ; Fellow of 
 the Madras University. Third Edition, thoroughly revised. 
 Fcap. 4to. 12s. 
 
 Practice of Courts Martial. 
 
 By Hough & Long. 8vo. London. 1825. 26s. 
 
 Prichard's Chronicles of Budgepore, &c. 
 
 Or Sketches of Life in Upper India. 2 Vols., Foolscap 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Prinsep (H. T.) Historical Results. 
 
 Dedueible from Recent Discoveries in Affghanistan. By H. 
 T. Pkinsep. 8vo. Lond. 1844. 15s. 
 
 Prinsep (H. T.) Tibet, Tartary, and Mongolia. 
 
 By IJenry T. Prinsep, Esq. Second edition. Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Prinsep (H. T.) Political and Military Transactions in India. 
 
 2 Vols. 8vo. London, 1825. 18s. 
 
 Raverty (Major H. G.) The Pus'hto Manual; comprising a 
 
 Condensed Grammar, with Idiomatic Phrases, Exercises and 
 Dialogues, and Vocabulary. By Major H. G. Raverty, 
 Bombay Army, Retired List. Fcap. 5s. 
 
 Richards (Major W. H.) Military Surveying, &c. 
 
 12s. (See page 20.) 
 
 Sanderson (G. P.) Thirteen Years among the Wild 
 
 Beasts of India ; their Haunts and Habits, from Personal 
 Observation; with an account of the Modes of Capturing and 
 Taming Wild Elephants. By G. P. Sanderson, Officer in 
 Charge of the Government Elephant Keddahs at Mysore. 
 With 21 full page Illustrations and three Maps. Second 
 Edition. Fcp. 4to. £1 5s. 
 
 Sewell (R.) Analytical History of India. 
 
 From the earliest times to the Abolition of the East India 
 Company in 1858. By Robert Sewell, Madras Civil Service. 
 Post 8vo. 8s. 
 
 *** The object of this work is to supply the want which has 
 been felt by students for a condensed outline of Indian History 
 which would serve at once to recall the memory and guide the 
 eye, while at the same time it has been attempted to render it 
 interesting to the general reader by preserving a medium 
 between a bare analysis and a complete history. 
 
 Sherer (J. W.) Who is Mary ? 
 A Cabinet Novel, in one volume. By J. W. Sheeee, Esq., 
 C.S.I. 10s. 6d. 
 
26 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Simpson (H. T.) Archaeologia Adelensis; or a History of the 
 
 Parish of Adel, in the West Biding of Yorkshire. Being 
 an attempt to delineate its Past and Present Associations, 
 Archaeological, Topographical, and Scriptural. By Henry 
 Traill Simpson, M.A., late Eector of Adel. With nu- 
 merous etchings by W. Lloyd Ferguson. Eoy. 8vo. 
 21s. 
 
 Starling (M. H.) Indian Criminal Law and Procedure. 
 
 Third edition. 8vo. £2 2s. See page ] 2. 
 
 Steele {A.) Law and Customs of Hindu Castes. 
 
 By Arthur Steele. Boyal 8vo. £1. Is. (See page 12.) 
 
 Stent (G. C.) Entombed Alive, 
 
 And other Songs and Ballads. (From the Chinese.) By 
 George Carter Stent, M.R A.S., of the Chinese Imperial 
 Maritime Customs Service, author of " Chinese and English 
 Vocabulary," " Chinese and English Pocket Dictionary," 
 " The Jade Chaplet," &c. Crown 8vo. With four Illus- 
 trations. 9s. 
 
 Strange' s (Sir T.) Hindu Law. 
 
 2 Vols. Royal 8vo. 1830. 24s. (See page 12.) 
 
 Thomson's Lunar and Horary Tables. 
 
 For New and Concise Methods of Performing the Calculations 
 necessary for ascertaining the Longitude by Lunar Observa- 
 tions, or Chronometers ; with directions for acquiring a know- 
 ledge of the Principal Fixed Stars and finding the Latitude of 
 them. By David Thojison. Sixty-fifth edit. Royal 8 vo. 10s. 
 
 Thornton's History of India. 
 
 The History of the British Empire in India, by Edward 
 Thornton, Esq. Containing a Copious Glossary of Indian 
 Terms, and a Complete Chronological Index of Events, to aid 
 the Aspirant for Public Examinations. Third edition. 1 vol. 
 8vo. With Map. 12s. 
 
 * # * The Library Edition, of the above in 6 volumes, 8vo., may be 
 had, price £2. 8s. 
 
 Thornton's Gazetteer of India. 
 
 Compiled chiefly from the records at the India Office. By 
 Edward Thornton. 1 vol., 8vo., pp. 1015. With Map. 21s. 
 
 *£* The chief objects in view in compiling this Gazetteer are : — 
 1st. To fix the relative position of the various cities, towns, and villaget 
 with as much precision as possible, and to exhibit with the greatest 
 practicable brevity all that is known respecting them ; and 
 2ndly. To note the various countries, provinces, or territorial divisions, and 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 27' 
 
 to describe the physical characteristics of each, together with their 
 
 statistical, social, and political circumstances. 
 
 To these are added minute descriptions of the principal rivers 
 and chains of mountains ; thus presenting to the reader, within a brief com- 
 pass, a mass of information which cannot otherwise be obtained, except from 
 a multiplicity of volumes and manuscript records. 
 
 The Library Edition. 
 
 4 vols., 8vo. Notes, Marginal References, and Map. £2 16s. 
 
 Thornton (E.) Gazetteer of the Punjaub, Afghanistan, &c. 
 
 Gazetteer of the Countries adjacent to India, on the north- 
 west, including Scinde, Affghanistan, Beloochistan, thePunjaub, 
 and the neighbouring States. By Edward Thornton, Esq. 
 2 vols. 8vo. £1 5s. 
 Thornton (T.) East India Calculator. 
 
 By T. Thornton. 8vo. London, 1823. 10s. 
 
 Thornton (T.) History of the Punjaub, 
 
 And of the Bise, Progress, and Present Condition of the 
 Sikhs. By T. Thornton. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Tilley (H. A.) Japan, the Amoor and the Pacific. 
 
 With notices of other Places, comprised in a Voyage of Circum- 
 navigation in the Imperial Russian Corvette Rynda, in 1858 — 
 18150. By Henry A. Tilley. Eight Illustrations. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 Tod (Col. Jas.) Travels in Western India. 
 
 Embracing a visit to the Sacred Mounts of the Jains, 
 and the most Celebrated Shrines of Hindu Faith between 
 Rajpootana and the Indus, with an- account of the Ancient 
 City of Nehrwalla. By the late Lieut.-Col. James Ton, 
 Illustrations. Royal 4to. £3 3s. 
 
 * # * This is a companion volume to Colonel Tod's JRajasthan. 
 
 Trimen (Capt. R.) Regiments of the British Army, 
 
 Chronologically arranged. Showing their History, Services, 
 Uniform, &c. By Captain R. Trimen, late 35th Regiment. 
 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 Trotter (L. J.) History of India. 
 
 The History of the British Empire in India, from the 
 Appointment of Lord Hardinge to the Death of Lord Canning 
 (1844 to 1862). By Captain Lionel James Trotter, late 
 Bengal Fusiliers. 2 vols. 8vo. 16s. each. 
 
 Trotter (L. J.) Warren Hastings, a Biography. 
 
 By Captain Lionel James Trotter, Bengal H. P., author 
 of a " History of India," " Studies in Biography," &c. 
 Crown 8vo. 9s. 
 
28 Wu. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Turkish Cookery Book (The). 
 
 A Collection of Receipts from the best Turkish Authorities. 
 Done into English by Farabi Efendi. 12mo. Cloth. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Vambery (A.) Sketches of Central Asia. 
 
 Additional Chapters on My Travels and Adventures, and of the 
 
 Ethnology of Central Asia. By Armenius Vambery. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 " A valuable guide on almost untrodden ground."- -Athenaeum. 
 
 Waring (E. J.) Pharmacopoeia of India. 
 
 By Edward John Waring, M.D., &c. 8vo. 6s. (See page 2.) 
 
 Watson (M.) Money. 
 
 By Jules Tardieu. Translated from the French by Mar- 
 garet Watson. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Watson (Dr. J. Forbes) Textile Manufactures and Costumes 
 
 of the People of India. As originally prepared under the 
 Authority of the Secretary of State for India in Council. 
 By J. Forbes Watson, MA., M.D., F.R.A.S., Reporter on 
 the Products of India. Folio, half-morocco. With numerous 
 Coloured Photographs. £3. 5s. 
 
 This work — by affording a key to the Fashions of the People, and to 
 the Cotton, Silk, and Wool Textiles in actual use in India — is of special 
 interest to Manufacturers, Merchants, and Agents ; as also to the Student 
 and lover of ornamental art. 
 
 Watson (Dr. J. F.) and J. W. Kaye, Races and Tribes of 
 
 Hindostan. The People of India. A series of Photographic 
 Illustrations of the Races and Tribes of Hindustan. Prepared 
 under the Authority of the Government of India, by J. Forbes 
 Watson, and John William Kaye. The Work contains 
 about 450 Photographs on mounts, in Eight Volumes, super 
 royal 4to. £2. 5s. per volume. 
 
 Webb (Dr. A.) Pathologia Indica. 
 
 Based upon Morbid Specimens from all parts of the Indian 
 Empire. By Allan Webb, B.M.S. Second Edit. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 Wellesley's Despatches. 
 
 The Despatches, Minutes, and Correspondence of the Marquis 
 Wellesley, K.G-., during his Administration in India. 5 vols. 
 8vo. With Portrait, Map, &c. £6. 10s. 
 
 This work should be perused by all who proceed to India in the 
 Civil Services. 
 
 Wellington in India. 
 
 Military History of the Duke of Wellington in India. Is. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 29 
 
 Wilberforce (Edward) Social Life in Munich. 
 
 By Edward Wilberforce, Second Edition. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 " A very able volume. Mr. Wilberforce is a very pleasant and agree* 
 able writer whose opinion is worth hearing on the subject of modern art 
 which enters largely into the matter of his discourse." — Saturday Sevieto 
 
 Wilberforce (E.) Franz Schubert. 
 
 A Musical Biography, from the German of Dr. Heinrich 
 Kreisle von Hellborn. By Edward Wilberforce, Esq., 
 Author of " Social Life in Munich." Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Wilk's South of India. 
 
 3 vols. 4to. £5. 5s. 
 
 Wilkins (W. N.) Visual Art ; or Nature through the Healthy Eye. 
 With some remarks on Originality and Free Trade, Artistic 
 Copyright, and Durability. By Wm. Noy Wilkins, Author of 
 " Art Impressions of Dresden," &c. 8vo. 6s. 
 
 Williams (F.) Lives of the English Cardinals. 
 
 The Lives of the English Cardinals, from Nicholas Break- 
 speare (Pope Adrien IV.) to Thomas Wolsey, Cardinal Legate. 
 With Historical Notices of the Papal Court. By Folkestone 
 Williams. 2 vols., 8vo. 14s. 
 
 Williams (F.) Life, &c, of Bishop Atterbury. 
 
 The Memoir and Correspondence of Francis Atterbury, Bishop 
 of Rochester, with his distinguished contemporaries. Compiled 
 chiefly from the Atterbury and Stuart Papers. By Folkestone 
 Williams, Author of "Lives of the English Cardinals," &c, 
 2 vols. 8vo. 14s. 
 Williams (Monier) Indian. Wisdom. 
 
 Or Examples of the Religious, Philosophical and Ethical 
 Doctrines of the Hindus. With a brief History of the Chief 
 Departments of Sanscrit Literature, and some account of the 
 Past and Present Condition of India, Moral and Intellectual. 
 By Monier Williams, M.A., Boden Professor of Sanscrit in 
 in the University of Oxford. Third Edition. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 Wilson (H.H.) Glossary of Judicial and Revenue Terms, and of 
 
 useful Words occurring in Official Documents relating to the 
 Administration of the Government of British India. From the 
 Arabic, Persian, Hindustani, Sanskrit, Hindi, Bengali, Uriya, 
 Marathi, Guzarathi, Telugu, Karnata, Tamil, Malayalam, and 
 other Languages. Compiled and published under the autho- 
 rity of the Hon. the Court of Directors of the E. I. Company. 
 4to., cloth. Ml 10s. 
 
30 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Wollaston (Arthur N.) Anwari Suhaili, or Lights of Canopus 
 Commonly known as Kalilah and Damnah, being an adaptation 
 of the Fables of Bidpai. Translated from the Persian. Royal 
 8vo., 42s. ; also in royal 4to., with illuminated borders, de- 
 signed specially for the work, cloth, extra gilt. £3 13s. 6d. 
 
 Wollaston (Arthur N.) Elementary Indian Reader. 
 
 Designed for the use of Students in the Anglo-Vernacular 
 Schools in India. Fcap. Is. 
 
 Woolrych (Serjeant W. H.) 
 
 Lives of Eminent Serjeants-at-Law of the English Bar. By 
 Humphry W. Woolrych, Serjeant-at-Law. 2 vols. 8vo. 30s. 
 
 Wraxall (Sir L., Bart.) Caroline Matilda. 
 
 Queen of Denmark, Sister of George 3rd. From Family and 
 State Papers. By Sir Lascelles Wraxall, Bart. 3 vols., 8vo. 
 18s. 
 
 Wraxall (Sir L., Bart.) Military Sketches. 
 
 By Sir Lascelles Wraxall, Bart. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 " The book is clever and entertaining from first to last." — Athenaeum. 
 
 Wraxall (Sir L., Bart.) Scraps & Sketches, Gathered Together. 
 
 By Sir Lascelles Wraxall, Bart. 2 vols., Post 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Young (J. R.) Course of Mathematics. 
 
 A Course of Elementary Mathematics for the use of candidates 
 for admission into either of the Military Colleges ; of appli- 
 cants for appointments in the Home or Indian Civil Services ; 
 and of mathematical students generally. By Professor J. Pi. 
 Young. In one closely-printed volume. 8vo., pp. 648. 12s. 
 
 "In the work before us he has digested a complete Elementary 
 Course, by aid of his long experience as a teacher and writer ; aud he has 
 produced a very useful book. Mr. Young has not allowed, his own taste 
 to rule the distribution, but has adjusted his parts with the skill of a 
 veteran.' ' — Athen mum. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 31 
 
 A SELECTION FKOM 
 
 MESSRS. ALLEN'S CATALOGUE 
 
 OF BOOKS IN THE EASTERN LANGUAGES, &c. 
 
 HINDUSTANI, HINDI, &c. 
 
 [Dr. Forties's Works are used as Class Books in the Colleges and Schools 
 
 in India.] 
 
 Forbes's Hindustani-English Dictionary in the Persian Character, 
 with the Hindi words in Nagari also ; and an English Hindustani 
 Dictionary in the English Character ; both in one volume. By DuK- 
 can Forbes, LL.D. Boyal 870. 42s. 
 
 Forbes's Hindustani-English and English Hindustani Dictionary, 
 in the English Character. Boyal 8vo. 36s. 
 
 Forbes's Smaller Dictionary, Hindustani and English, in the 
 English Character. 12s. 
 
 Forbes's Hindustani Grammar, with Specimens of Writing in the 
 Persian and Nagari Characters, Beading Lessons, and Vocabulary. 
 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Forbes's Hindustani Manual, containing a Compendious Gram- 
 mar, Exercises for Translation, Dialogues, and Vocabulary, in the 
 Boman Character. New Edition, entirely revised. By J. T. Pjatts. 
 18mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Forbes's Bagh Bahar, in the Persian Character, with a complete 
 Vocabulary. Boyal 8vo. 12s 6d. 
 
 Forbes's Bagh Bahar in English, with Explanatory Notes, 
 illustrative of Eastern Character. 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Forbes's Bagh Bahar, with Vocaby., English Character. 5s. 
 
 Forbes's Tota Kahani ; or, " Tales of a Parrot," in the Persian 
 Character, with a complete Vocabulary. Boyal 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Forbes's Baital Pachisi ; or, " Twenty-five Tales of a Demon," 
 in the Nagari Character, with a complete Vocabulary. Boyal 8vo. 9s. 
 
 Forbes's Ikhwanu s Safa ; or, " Brothers of Purity," in the 
 Persian Character. Boyal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 {For the higher standard for military officers' examinations.'] 
 
 Forbes's Oriental Penmanship ; a Guide to Writing Hindustani 
 in the Persian Character. 4to. 8s. 
 
32 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 Platts' Grammar of the Urdu or Hindustani-Language. 8vo. 12s. 
 
 Eastwick (Edward B.) The Bagh-o-Bahar — literally translated 
 into English, with copious explanatory notes. 8vo. 3 Os. 6d. 
 
 Small's (Rev. G.) Tota Kahani; or, " Tales of a Parrot." Trans- 
 lated into English. 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Platts' J. T., Baital Pachisi ; translated into English. 8vo. 8s. 
 
 Platts' Ikhwanu S Safa; translated into English. 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Hindustani Selections, with a Vocabulary of the Words. By 
 James R. Ballantyne. Second Edition. 1845. 5s. 
 
 Singhasan Battisi. Translated into Hindi from the Sanscrit. 
 A New Edition. Revised, Corrected, and Accompanied with Copious 
 Notes. By Syed Abdoolah. Royal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Robertson's Hindustani Vocabulary. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Akhlaki Hindi, translated into Urdu, with an Introduction and 
 Notes. By Syed Abdoolah. Royal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Sakuntala. Translated into Hindi from the Bengali recension 
 of the Sanskrit. Critically edited, with grammatical, idiomatical, and 
 eiegetical notes, by Eeedebic Pincott. 4to. 12s. 6d. 
 
 SANSCRIT. 
 
 Haughton's Sanscrit and Bengali Dictionary, in the Bengali 
 Character, with Index, serving as a reversed dictionary. 4to. 30s. 
 
 Williams's English-Sanscrit Dictionary. 4to., cloth. £3. 3s. 
 
 Williams's Sanskrit-English Dictionary. 4to. £4 14s. 6d. 
 
 Wilkin's (Sir Charles) Sanscrit Grammar. 4to. 15s. 
 
 Williams's (Monier) Sanscrit Grammar. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 Williams's (Monier) Sanscrit Manual ; to which .is added, a 
 
 "Vocabulary, by A. E. GrOUGH. 18mo. 7s. 6d. 
 Gough's (A. E.) Key to the Exercises in Williams's Sanscrit 
 
 Manual. 18mo. 4s. 
 
 Williams's (Monier) Sakuntala, with Literal English Translation 
 of all the Metrical Passages, Schemes of the Metres, and copious 
 Critical and Explanatory Notes. Royal 8vo. 21s. 
 
 Williams's (Monier) Sakuntala. Translated into English Prose 
 and Verse. Eourth Edition. 8s. 
 
 Williams's (Monier) Vikramorvasi. The Text. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Cowell's (E B.) Translation of the Vikramorvasi. 8vo. 3s. 6d. 
 
13, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall. 33 
 
 Thompson's (J. C.) Bhagavat Gita. Sanscrit Text. 5s. 
 
 Haughton's Menu, -with English Translation. 2 vols. 4to. 24s. 
 
 Johnson's Hitopadesa, with Vocabulary. 15s. 
 
 Hitopadesa, Sanscrit, with Bengali and English Trans. 10s. 6d. 
 
 Johnson's Hitopadesa, English Translation of the. 4to. 5s. 
 
 Wilson's Megha Duta, with Translation into English Verse, 
 Notes, Illustrations, and a Vocabulary. Royal 8vo. 6s. 
 
 PERSIAN. 
 
 Kichardson's Persian, Arabic, and English Dictionary. Edition 
 of 1852. By F. Johnson. 4to. £4. 
 
 Forbes's Persian Grammar, Reading Lessons, and Vocabulary. 
 Royal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Ibraheem's Persian Grammar, Dialogues, &c. Royal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Gulistan. Carefully collated with the original MS., with a full 
 Vocabulary. By John Platts, late Inspector of Schools, Central 
 Provinces, India. Royal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Gulistan. Translated from a revised Text, with Copious Notes. 
 By John Piatts. 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Ouseley's Anwari Soheili. 4to. 42s. 
 
 Wollaston's (Arthur N.) Translation of the Anvari Soheili. 
 Royal 8vo. £2 2s. 
 
 Keene's (Rev. H. G.) First Book of The Anwari Soheili. Persian 
 Text. 8vo. 5s. 
 
 Ouseley's (Col.) Akhlaki Mushini. Persian Text. 8vo. 5s 
 
 Keene's (Rev. H. G.) Akhlaki Mushini. Translated into English. 
 8vo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Clarke's (Captain H. Wilberforce, R.E.) The Persian Manual. 
 A Pocket Companion. 
 
 PART I. — A concise Grammar, of the Language, with Exer- 
 cises on its more Prominent Peculiarities, together with a Selection of 
 Useful Phrases, Dialogues, and Subjects for Translation into Persian. 
 
 PART II. — A VOCABULARY OE TTSEEUL WORDS, ENGLISH AND 
 
 Persian, showing at the same time the difference of idiom between 
 the two Languages. 18mo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 A Translation of Robinson Crusoe into the Persian Language. 
 Roman Character. Edited by T. "W. H. Tolbort, Bengal Civil 
 Service. Cr. 8vo. 7§. 
 
34 Wm. H. Allen & Co., 
 
 BENGALI. 
 
 Haughton's Bengali, Sanscrit, and English Dictionary, adapted 
 for Students in either language ; to which is added an Index, serving 
 as a reversed dictionary. 4to. 30s. 
 
 Forbes's Bengali Grammar, with Phrasesand dialogues. Royal 
 
 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 Forbes's Bengali Reader, with a Translation and Vocabulary 
 
 Royal 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Nabo Nari. 12mo. 7s. 
 
 ARABIC. 
 
 Richardson's Arabic, Persian and English Dictionary. Edition 
 of 1852. By F. Johnson. 4to., cloth. £4. 
 
 Forbes's Arabic Grammar, intended more especially for tbe use of 
 young men preparing for the East India Civil Service, and also for the 
 use of self instructing students in general. Royal 8to., cloth. 18s. 
 
 Palmer's Arabic Grammar. 8vo. 18s. 
 
 Forbes's Arabic Reading Lessons, consisting of Easy Extracts 
 from the best Authors, with Vocabulary. Royal 8vo., cloth. 15s. 
 
 Matthew's Translation of tbe Mishkat-ul-Masabih. 2 vols in 1. 
 By the Rev. T. P. Hughes, Missionary to the Afghans at Peshawur. 
 (In the press.) 
 
 TELOOGOO. 
 
 Brown's Dictionary, reversed ; with a Dictionary of the Mixed 
 Dialects used in Teloogoo. 3 vols, in 2, royal 8vo. £5. 
 
 Campbell's Dictionary. Royal 8vo. 30s. 
 
 Bromn's Reader. 8vo. 2 vols. 14s. 
 
 Brown's Dialogues, Teloogoo and English. 8vo. 5s. 6d. 
 
 Pancha Tantra. 8s. 
 
 Percival's English-Teloogoo Dictionary. 10s. 6d. 
 
 TAMIL. 
 
 Rottler's Dictionary, Tamil and English. 4to. 42s. 
 Babington's Grammar (High Dialect). 4to. 12s. 
 Percival's Tamil Dictionary. 2 vols. 10s. frd. 
 
13, Watekloo Place, Pall Mall. 35 
 
 GUZRATTEE. 
 
 Mavor's Spelling, Guzrattee and English. 73, 6d. 
 Shapuaji Edalji's Dictionary, Guzrattee and English. 21s. 
 
 MAHRATTA. 
 
 Molesworth's Dictionary, Mahratta and English. 4to. 42s. 
 Molesworth's Dictionary, English and Mahratta. 4to. 42s. 
 Stevenson's Grammar. 8vo., cloth. 17s. 6d. 
 Esop's Fables. 12mo. 2s. 6d. 
 Fifth Beading Book. 7s. 
 
 MALAY. 
 
 Marsden's Grammar. 4to. £1 Is. 
 
 CHINESE. 
 
 Morrison's Dictionary. 6 vols. 4to. £10. 
 
 Marshman's — Clavis Sinica, a Chinese Grammar. 4to. £2 2s. 
 
 Morrison's View of China, for Philological purposes; containing a 
 Sketch of Chinese Chronology, Geography, Government, Religion and 
 Customs, designed for those who study the Chinese language. 4to. 6s. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Beeve's English-Carnatica and Carnatica-English Dictionary. 
 2 vols. (Very slightly damaged). £8. 
 
 Collett's Malayalam Beader. 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Esop's Fables in Carnatica. 8vo. bound. 1 2s. 6d. 
 
 A Turkish Manual, comprising a Condensed Grammar with 
 Idiomatic Phrases, Exercises and Dialogues, and Vocabulary. By 
 Captain C. F. Mackenzie, late of H.M.'s Consular Service. 6s. 
 
36 Wm. H. Allen & Co. 
 
 A CHRONOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL 
 
 CHART OF INDIA, 
 
 Price, fully tinted, mounted on roller or in case, 20s. 
 size, about 40 in. by 50 in. 
 
 Showing, at one view, all the principal nations, governments, and empires which 
 have existed in that country from the earliest times to the suppression of the Great 
 Mutiny, A.D. 1858, with the date of each historical event according to the various 
 eras used in India. 
 
 BT 
 
 AKTHUR ALLEN DURTNALL, 
 
 Of the High Court of Justice in England. 
 
 By this Chart, any person, however ignorant of the subject, may, by an hour's 
 attention, obtain a clear view of the broad lines of Indian History, and of the 
 evolutions which have resulted in the dominion of Her Majesty as EMPRESS OF 
 INDIA. It will bo found invaluable for Educational Purposes, especially in 
 Collegi'8 and ' chools, where an Indian career is in contemplation. It will also be 
 found of permanent utilitt in all Libraries and Offices as a work of ready 
 reference for the connection of events and dates. Besides the History of India, it 
 includes the contemporaneous histories of Afghanistan, Central Asia, and 
 Europe. 
 
 A RELIEVO MAP OF INDIA. 
 
 BT 
 
 HENRY F. BRION. 
 
 In Frame, 21s. 
 
 A map of this kind brings before us such a picture of the surface of a given 
 country as no ordinary map could ever do. To the mind's eye of the average 
 Englishman, India consists of ' the plains ' and 'the hills,' chiefly of the former, 
 the hills being limited to the Himalayas and the Nilgiris. The new map will at 
 least enable him to correct his notions of Indian geography. It combines the 
 ■usual features of a good plain map of the country on a scale of 150 miles to the 
 inch, with a faithful representation of all the uneven surfaces, mo.delled on a scale 
 thirty-two times the horizontal one ; thus bringing out into clear relief the com- 
 parative heights and outlines of all the hill-ranges, and showing broad tracts of 
 uneven ground, of intermingled hill and valley, which a common map of the 
 same size would hardly indicate, except to a very practised eye. The plains of 
 Upper India are reduced to their true proportions; the Central Provinces, 
 Malwa, and "Western Bengal reveal their actual ruggedness at a glance ; and 
 Southern India, from the Vindhyas to Cape Comorin, proclaims its real height 
 above the sea-level. To the historical as well as the geographical student such a 
 map is an obvious and important aid in tracing the course of past campaigns, in 
 realising the conditions under which successive races carried their arms or settle- 
 ments through the Peninsula, and in comprehending the difference of race, climate, 
 and physical surroundings which make up our Indian Empire. Set in a neat 
 frame of maplewood, the map seems to attract the eye like a prettily-coloured 
 picture, and its price, a guinea, should place it within the reach of all who care to 
 combine the useful with the ornamental." — Home News. 
 
MAPS OF INDIA, etc. 
 
 Messrs. Allen S( Co.'s Maps of India were revised and much improved 
 during 1876, with especial reference to the existing Administrative 
 Divisions, Railways, Sfc. 
 
 District Map of India; corrected to 1876; 
 
 Divided into Collectorates with the Telegraphs and Railways from Go- 
 vernment surveys. On six sheets — size, 5ft. 6in. high ; 5ft. 8in. wide, 
 £2j in a case, £2 12s. 6d. ; or, rollers, varn., £3 3s. 
 
 A General Map of India ; corrected to 1876 ; 
 
 Compiled chiefly from surveys executed by order of the Government 
 of India. On six sheets — size, 5 ft. 3 in. wide ; 5 ft. 4 in. high, £2 ; 
 or, on cloth, in case, £2 12s. 6d. ; or, rollers, varn., £3 3s. 
 
 Map of India ; corrected to 1876 ; 
 
 From the most recent Authorities. On two sheets — size, 2 ft. lOin. 
 wide ; 3 ft. 3 in. high, 16s. ; or, on cloth, in a case, £1 Is. 
 
 Map of the Routes in India; corrected to 1874 ; 
 
 With Tables of Distances between the principal Towns and Military 
 Stations On one sheet — size, 2 ft. 3 in. wide ; 2 ft. 9 in. high, 9s. ; 
 or, on cloth, in a case, 12s. 
 
 Map of the Western Provinces of Hindoostan, 
 
 The Punjab, Cabool, Scinde, Bhawulpore, &c, including all the States 
 between Candahar and Allahabad. On four sheets — size, 4 ft. 4in. 
 wide j 4 ft. 2 in. high, 30s. ; or, in case, £2 ; rollers, varnished, £2 10s. 
 
 Map of India and China, Burmah, Siam, the Malay Penin- 
 sula, and the Empire of Anam. On two sheets — size, 4 ft. 3 in. wide ; 
 
 3 ft. 4 in. high, 16s. ; or, on cloth, in a case, £1 5s. 
 
 Map of the Steam Communication and Overland Routes 
 between England, India, China, and Australia. In a case, 14s. ; on 
 rollers, and varnished, 18s. 
 
 Map of China, 
 
 Erom the most Authentic Sources of Information. One large sheet — 
 size, 2 ft. 7 in. wide j 2 ft. 2 in. high, 6s. j or, on cloth, in case, 8s. 
 
 Map of the World ; 
 
 On Mercator's Projection, showing the Tracts of the Early Navigators, 
 the Currents of the Ocean, the Principal Lines of great Circle Sailing, 
 and the most recent discoveries. On four sheets — size, 6ft. 2 in. wide ; 
 
 4 ft. 3 in. high, £2 ; on cloth, in a case, £2 10s ; or, with rollers, and 
 varnished, £3. 
 
 Handbook of Reference to the Maps of India. 
 
 Giving the Latitude and Longitude of places of note. 18mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Russian Official Map of Central Asia. Compiled in accord- 
 ance with the Discoveries and Surveys of Russian Staff Officers up 
 to the close of the year 1877. In 2 Sheets. 10s. 6d., or in cloth 
 case, 14s. 
 
THE 
 
 EOTAL KALENDAR, 
 
 AND 
 
 COURT & CITY REGISTER 
 
 FOB 
 
 (Kitglmto, f nlaifo, Jbtlanir, rah \\t €dtmm 
 
 FOR THE TEAR 
 
 1880. 
 
 Containing a Coekect List of the Twenty-First Imperial 
 Parliament, summoned to meet for their First 
 Session — March 5th, 1874. 
 
 House of Peers — House of Commons — Sovereigns and Rulers 
 of States of Europe— -Orders of Knighthood — Science and Art 
 Department — Queen's Household — Government Offices — Mint 
 — Customs — Inland Revenue — Post Office — Foreign Ministers 
 and Consuls — Queen's Consuls Abroad — Naval Department — 
 Navy List — Army Department — Army List — Law - Courts — 
 Police — Ecclesiastical Department — Clergy List — Foundation 
 Schools — Literary Institutions — City of London — Banks — Rail- 
 way Companies — Hospital and Institutions — Charities — Miscel- 
 laneous Institutions — Scotland, Ireland, India, and the Colonies ; 
 and other useful information. 
 
 Price with Index, 7s. ; without Index, 5s. 
 
Published on the arrival of every Mail from India. Subscription 2Qs. per 
 annum, post free, specimen copy,6d. 
 
 ALLEN'S INDIAN MAIL, 
 
 AND 
 
 fffidal §wttt 
 
 INDIA, CHINA, AND ALL PARTS OF THE EAST. 
 
 Allen's Indian Mail contains the fullest and most authentic Reports 
 of all important Occurrences in the Countries to which it is devoted, com- 
 piled chiefly from private and exclusive sources. It has been pronounced 
 by the Fress in general to be indispensable to all who have Friends or Rela- 
 tives in the East, as affording the only correct information regarding the 
 Services, Movements of Troops, Shipping, and all events of Domestic and 
 individual interest. 
 
 The subjoined list of the usual Contents will show the importance and 
 variety of the information concentrated in Allen's Indian Mail. 
 
 Summary and Review of Eastern News. 
 
 Precis of Public Intelligence 
 Selections from the Indian Press 
 Movements of Troops 
 The Government Gazette 
 Courts Martial 
 
 Domestic Intelligence— Births 
 „ „ Marriages 
 
 ,, ,, Deaths 
 
 Shipping— Arrival of Ships 
 
 „ >, Passengers 
 
 M Departure of Ships 
 
 ,', „ Passengers 
 
 Commercial— State of the Markets 
 „ IndianSecurities 
 
 „ Freights 
 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 
 Some Intelligence relating to India, Sfc. 
 
 Original Articles 
 Miscellaneous Information 
 Appointments, List of Fur- 
 loughs, Extensions, &c. 
 
 „ Civil 
 
 „ Military 
 
 „ Ecclesiastical and 
 
 ,, Marine 
 
 Arrival reported in England 
 Departures ,, „ 
 
 Shipping— Arrival of Ships 
 
 ,, „ Passengers 
 
 „ Departure of Ships 
 
 „ ,, Passengers 
 
 „ Vessel spoken with 
 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 
 Review of Works on the East.— And Notices of all affairs 
 connected with India and the Services. 
 
 Each year an Index is furnished, to enable Subscribers to bind up the Tolume 
 which forms a complete 
 
 ASIATIC ANNUAL REGISTER AND LIBRARY OF REFERENCE. 
 
 Lokdon:Wm.H. ALLEN & Co., 13, WATERLOO PLACE, S.W. 
 
 (PUBUSHEKS TO THE INDIA OFFICE), 
 
 To whom Communications for the Editor, and Advertisements 
 are requested to be addressed. 
 
. Wm. E ALLEN & Co.'s 
 
 LIST OF FORTHCOMING WORKS. 
 
 RUSSIAN" CAMPAIGNS AGAINST THE 
 TURKOMANS, 
 
 From 1 869 to the present time. By C. Marvin. With Maps, 
 Plans, and Portraits. 
 
 THE AFGHAN WAR. GOUGH'S ACTION 
 AT FUTTEHABAD. 
 
 By the Rev. C. Swinnerton, Bengal Chaplain, in the Field with 
 the First Division, Peshawur Valley Field Force. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE INDIAN MUTINY, 
 
 1857-1858, 
 
 Commencing from the close of the Second Volume of Sir John 
 Kaye's History of the Sepoy War. By Colonel G. B. Mal- 
 leson, C.S.I. Vol. III. 
 
 SKETCHES FROM NIPAL. 
 
 By Dr. Ojldfield. 
 
 DESERT LIFE: 
 
 Recollections of an Expedition in the Soudan. By B. Soltmos. 
 
 A PLEASURE TRIP TO INDIA, 
 
 During the Visit of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and afterwards 
 to Ceylon. By M. E. Corbet. 
 
 A CHART OF FAMILY INHERITANCE, 
 ACCORDING TO ORTHODOX MOOHUM- 
 MADAN LAW, 
 
 With an Explanatory Treatise. By Almaric Rumset, of Lin- 
 coln's Inn, Barrister-at-Law, Professor of Indian Jurisprudence 
 at King's College, London. 
 
 THE ARABIC MANUAL, 
 
 A Compendium of Classical and Colloquial Arabic. By Prof. 
 E. H. Palmer. 
 

 
 
 ■ ■ fcv* 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 >r«5ti 
 
 ^B 
 
 H 
 
 '.t - *. ■ 
 
 
 ' I 
 
 
 
 
 
■ 
 
 ^H i 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 r k\," 
 
 
 As 
 
 i 
 
 \$ <r 
 
 1 ■ T