i A COMPLETE VIEW OF THE RESS AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND, IROM THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE SAXONS IN BRITAIN TO THE PRESENT TIME ; ILLUSTRATED BY ENGRAVINGS TAKEN FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY. TO WHICH IS PREFIXED AN INTRODUCTION, CONTAINING A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ANCIENT HABITS IN USE AMONG MANKIND,. FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD OF TIME, TO THE CONCLUSION OF THE SEVENTH CENTURY. By JOSEPH ST RUT T. VOL. 11. LONDON: PRINTED 3Y J NICHOLS, FOR J. EDWARDS, PALL-MALL; B. AND J. WHITE, FLEET-STREET; G. G. AND J. ROBINSON, PATER-NOSTER-ROW > AND J, THANE, SPUR-STREET, LEICESTER-SQUARE. JM SCC XClX. THE INTRODUCTION. PART THE SECOND. SECTION L A General View of the Habits of the Greeks and the Romans, IT would be perfectly inconfiftent with my prefent defign to enter upon a full inveftigation of the habits of the Greeks and the Romans ; neither, indeed, am 1 in the leaft inclined to make fuch an attempt, becaufe the world is already in pofTeflion of many elaborate difcuflions upon this fubject 1 : all that 1 lhall pretend to do will be merely to trace out a general outline of the different parts of drefs which were commonly ufed by both nations. The principal habits of the Greeks were adopted by the Romans, with fuch variations only as appear to have been made for fafhion's fake, rather than for real utility; and therefore a leparate inveftigation of the garments belonging to either will not be neceffary ; but, on the contrary, many ufelefs repetitions may be avoided by treating them con- jointly, as I lhall endeavour to do. 1 See Bernard de Montfaucon, dans L'Antiquite Expliquee, vol. III. et IV. a a The xc INTRODUCTION. The Tunic was a garment common to the Greeks anc£ to the Romans : it was of two kinds ; the fhort tunic,, reaching to" the knees, which was raoft generally ufed; and the long tunic, defcending to the heels 1 . The Grecians anciently wore only one tunic : in procefs of time, how- ever, they introduced a fecond, and the firft anfwered the purpofe of a fhirt \ This people were well acquainted with the ufe of linen ; which knowledge, it is faid, and with great appearance of truth, they derived from the Egyptians 3 ., It is, however, very uncertain at what period they em- ployed that article for the fabrication of their tunics, or if they ever univerfally adopted it for that purpofe : we know, that tunics of linen were worn by fome of the Phi- lofophers 4 ; but, generally fpeaking, I prefume that veft- ments of linen were much more frequently ufed by the: women than by the men. Kfoft tunic s is fpecified by Homer as part of the drefs belonging to Agamemnon ; but this is no proof that it was linen, for the epithet foft may be equally ap- plied to any other delicate fabric The Grecian tunics, in, their moft ancient ftate, were certainly made of woollea cloth : the Athenians wore them of various colours ; which, ufage is condemned by iElian as an extravagance. The garments of the Greeks were not only variegated in the colours, but often embellifhed with birds, beafts, flowers, and different aflemblages of imagery extending even to the reprefentation of hiflorical fubjeets, which were inter woven, at the time of their fabrication, with threads of gold, of filver, and of colours appropriated to the defign 6 ; and to; 1 In the fiivft inftance, called in Greek. guifliedbyHomerwithl.heepithctw«;j< 1 Xo i -,. j^lay, tunica; in the fecond, wa^n^s xP-w } irariegatus, ;mcl ^aeptMi^Xdc,. mollis tunica; Iliad, And Pope loolely tranflates the palfage : lib. II. line 42. Agrowingworkemploy'dherlecrethours,, 6 Thefe forts of garments are diftin* Confus'dly gay with intermingled flowers.. fome INTRODUCTION. xci fame adornments of this kind I apprehend Homer alludes^ when he calls the tunic of Telemachus a fplendid tunic \ —A beautiful fpecimen of the Grecian tunic, ornamented with embroidery, is, given upon the fixth plate appertain- ing to the Introduction-. The Exomis 2 was a tunic without JJeeves, commonly worn by the Grecian Philosophers, but not confined to them : it was alfo ufed by valets and fervants of all kinds. This garment occurs upon the figure dancing, at the bottom of the Plate juft referred to, where the fleeves of the under-tunic lufficiently fpecify the difference between it and the exomis. Among the ancient Romans, the tunic was made of white woollen cloth, and without fleeves, which were after- wards added \ In general, the fleeves were loofe and fhort, reaching only to the elbow 4 ; but their length and fafhion feem to have depended on the will of the wearer 5 ; and, in the times of the Emperors, they were brought to the wrifts, and ornamented there with fringes \ The tunic which was worn by the Romans under the toga commonly hung down as low as the ankles : in other cafes-, it does not appear to have extended beyond the knees. After the Romans had introduced the wearing of two tunics, they ufed the words fubucula and indufium to diftin- guiih the inner one 7 , which was alfo of woollen. Auguftus in the winter-feafon wore no lefs than four tunics at one time, befides the fubucula, or under-tunic, and all of them of woollen \ Montfaucon is of opinion, that the interior garments belonging to. the men were rarely, if ever, made of linen, until a late period of the Roman Empire 9 . 1 X»W When a young man laid afide the toga pretexta, he af- fumed the manly gown called toga virilis\ and various ceremonies were performed with great folemnity upon the occafion ; however, as a mark of modefty, during the whole of the firft year, it was ufual for him to keep his right arm within the folds of his gown \ It was cuf- tomary with candidates for public offices to appear before the people clothed with the toga only, to fhew their hu- mility on the one hand, and to expofe, with more freedom, fuch parts of their body as had been wounded in their country's fervice 5 . Under the Emperors, this garment was in great meafure difufed, except by clients when they waited upon their patrons 6 , and by orators when they pleaded at the bar \ The toga was ufually laid afide in time of mourning, and rarely, if ever, worn at home; where its place was fupplied by a domeftic habit provided for that purpofe 8 . Neither was it ever ufed at feafts ; for, the Romans had a particular garment appropriated to fuch occafions, which they called The Synthefis. This peculiar habit, though honoured with a Greek name, was probably of Roman origin. It is generally thought to have been a loofe drefs, of the pallium or mantle kind, which might be eafily put on or off; and the ufage of this garment at feftivals appears to have been univerfal, not only in the city of Rome, but throughout 1 Liv. lib. XXXIV. cap. 7. Cic.Verr.I. And hence they were called prcetextati. Sueton. in Vit. Auguft. cap 44. 2 And alio by Augurs, Confnls, and Dictators ; to thefe may be added private perfons, when they exhibited, puhjic games. Cic. Pif. IV. 3 Called alfo toga fura, becaufe it was white ; and libera, becaufe he became his own matter. Cic. Att. V. & XX. Ovid, de Trift, lib. IV. Perf. Sat. v. * Cic.Cael.V. s Plutarch, in Vita Coriolani.. 6 Suet. Auguft. cap. 60. Martial, Ep* i. ii. 7 Senec. de Conftant. cap. 9. Tacit. Anna!, lib. XI. cap. 7. 8 Called veftis domeftica, in oppofition to the toga and other garments ufually worn abroad, which were denominated veftitus forenjis. Cic. de Sin. II. Sueton. Auguft. cap. 73. Plin. Epift, v. the xcvi INTRODUCTION, the whole of the Roman Empire, and by every rank of the people who could afford the purchafe \ The Trabea was anciently an habit of honour and distinction among the Romans, and thought to have re- ceived its name from certain ftripes that were wrought upon it acrofs the breaft. According to Servius, there were three forts of this garment; one, proper to the Gods, all of purple ; another, to the kings, of purple mixed with white ; and a third, to the priefts, of purple and fcarlet \ The learned are by no means agreed with refpecl to the form of the trabea ; many are of opinion that it differed in no- thing from the toga, excepting only in the quality of its materials 3 ; Rubenius, however, contends that it was fliorter, and bore a greater refemblance to the chlamys 4 . The Pallium, or mantle s , with the Greeks, was a gar- ment of diftindtion, the fame as the toga was with the Romans. The Emperor Auguftus, for political reafons, caufed the Romans to affume the Grecian habit, and the Greeks the Roman habit, meaning that the former mould wear the pallium, and the latter the toga ; and from that period, the pallium came into common ufe among the Romans 6 . The ancient Athenians wore purple mantles ; which uElian cenfures as an extravagance 7 . The Grecian mantles were fometimes white 8 ; but the colour, as well as the ma- terials, depended ufually, I prefume, upon the rank and circumilances of the wearer. The pallium was worn over the tunic, and was either double or fingle, according to the feafon it was required to fuit 9 . It was fattened upon the right moulder with a ' It was worn all the time of the Sa- * Called in Greek and

, » continually feafting. Martial, Ep. xiv. * Sueton. in Vit. Aucruft. cap 08 a De purpura & cocco. Servius ad 7 Var. Hilt. lib. IV cap 2/ iEneidos, vn 8 Ariilander the Augur, at the battle a Dionyfius Hahcarnafiaeus, lib. II. of Arbela, was clad in a white mantle, 1 A iu 8 ' .--o i • ■. ^ , with a crow n of gold upon his head. 4 AlbertiRubem de Re Veftiaria, lib. I. Plutarch, in Vit. Alexandri. * a P- v ' 9 When double, it was called hvMu fibula, INTRODUCTION. Xcvii fibula, or buckle, whence defcehding, both before and behind, to the middle of the legs, it covered the greater part of the whole body, leaving the right arm at perfect liberty. According to Homer, the pharos, or mantle, was not always confined to one particular fize; for, in feveral places, he mentions the great pallium 1 , which evidently implies the exiftence of a fmaller one. The great mantle was ufed by perfons of the higheft rank. The Tribon and Tribonion 2 , or, the philofopher* $ mantle-, does not appear to have differed materially in its form from the common pallium, but rather, perhaps, in its colour, which was black or brown ; and derived its name from being ufually worn threadbare 3 . It was oftentatioufly af~ fumed by the Cynics and other Philofophers, to demonflrate their poverty and contempt for temporal vanities 4 : it was not, indeed, confined to them ; for, though it was confidered as an habit of indigence, it was worn by many people above want ; and at Athens it was adopted by the pleaders at the bar. The Pallidum was a Jhort mantle, or rather cowl, or hood, ufed to cover the head. It was worn by fick perfons* or by fuch as were firft venturing abroad after their reco- very from ficknefs ; and alfo by women of ill fame at Rome, to conceal themfelves when they walked through the city s . The Chlamys was a fpecies of cloak, or mantle, worn over the tunic. It was ufed by the Greeks ; and from them it defcended to the Romans. The form of the chlamys has never been clearly investigated : fome contend, that it was like the Roman toga ; others reject this opinion, and allure us that it did not differ in any refpect from the fagum, or paludamentum 6 ; the laft hypothefis is, I believe, the moft 1 Msy* 0ae©?, belonging to Agamem- K From the verb r(£u, to rub, or wear non ; Iliad, lib. II. ver. 43. The fame a=way by frequent ufe. epithet is given to the mantle of Tele- + And, not content with having it machus, OdyiTey, lib. XV. ver. 61 ; and threadbare and dirty, they frequently elfewhere ufed. wore i,t patched and torn. a Tg«&»¥ & Tgi&wov.' s Montfauconj ubi fupra, cap. iv. 6 Ibid. c c generally XCVlll INTRODUCTION. generally received, and apparently approaches nearer! to the truth. This garment was of two kinds ; the common chlamys, and the chlamys of Macedon : the difference between them is thought to have confifted in the fize alone • but this is mere conjecture. The chlamys was ufed by the Romans not only as a military vefture, but alfo as a garment for travelling \ b The Mandyas, the Epheflris, and theByrrhus, are all of them expreffly faid by Artimedorus to have been different names for the chlamys 2 ; however the byrrhus feems rather, from the cowl, or hood, annexed, to have relembled the lacerna 3 . Sagum, or Paludamentum, was a military mantle. The name and the garment appear to have been both de- rived from the Gauls, and uied by the Romans, as fome think, before that people were fubjecled to the Empire. It had fleeves in its priftine ftate, which were taken from it when it was brought into Italy \ It was a large open cloak made with wool, and faftened with clafps s . In dangerous times, it was worn in the city of Rome by all ranks of perfons, excepting thofe of Confular dignity \ In the time of the Itahc war, it continued in ufe for two years without intermiffion \ This garment, when it was affumed by the general, or chief officers of the army, was of fcarlet co- lour, and bordered with purple. The Chlaena 3 , or Una, as it was called in Latin, was a Grecian vefture, that ferved not only for a mantle, but occafionally, for a coverlet, or bed- quilt; and, the better to anlwer both purpofes, it was made fquare, being either hngle or double 9 , as the exigences of fealons required, i he chiasmi anciently was a military garment, uled m cold and wet weather as a furiout, being caft over 1 Vc/lis viatoria : hence chlamydatus was * Ibid cap ltt t0 vr P T S " ,ra « eller ' ° r a forei S*er. * Sueton. Auguft. cap. 26. ! T ih I? ,V " 2 ' 6 Ciceron - Phili P 7; who fays, "the ancients feem to * x l aivx Mother!" thCm indiffereut1 ^ the one for 9 That is, lined, I prefume. all INTRODUCTION. xcix all the other parts of the drefs. Homer frequently calls it the rough or jhagged chlcena 1 ; and full as often he didmguifhes it by the epithet of fair, or beautiful 7 -. The Grecians had another garment, of the fame fpecies, called Chlanis, or Chlanidion, which was made of fofter and lighter materials than the chlasna, and was worn by women as well as the men 3 . The Sifyra is alio thought to have been a mantle of the fame kind as the chkena, but fabricated with a thicker and coarfer fluff; and, like that garment, it was ufed equally for a part of drefs and for a coverlet \ The Lacerna of the Romans feems to have been greatly fimilar to the Grecian chkena : it was a large cloak, or mantle, worn over the other clothing as a defence aga'ind the inclemency of the weather. It was open before, and fattened upon the bread with fibulas, or buckles 5 , havino- a cowl, or hood , attached to the hinder part, but in fuch a manner that it might eafily be difengaged. It was made of thick and warm materials when defigned for the winter, but of fofter and lighter ftuff when it was intended for the fummer. The colours of the lacerna were alfo varied as well as its texture 7 : in general, they were black, or dark brown ; but Senators and perfons of rank, for diftin&ion's fake, wore purple 8 . The lacerna was anciently a military garment, and ufed only in the army 9 ; it was reckoned indecorous to appear with the lacerna in the city of Rome, where it was fird worn by the common people ; and even in Cicero's time, the Patricians and perfons of didin&ion were alhamed to be feen in the dreets fo habited 10 ; but, foon after, during the civil wars, the toga being laid afide* 1 XAshvos? Hind, lib. III. ver. 299. a K«>*,^x«,„. OdyfT. lib. X. 3 Montfaucon, ubi fupra, cap. ii. 4 Ibidem. s Efpecially when it was ufed at the public fpedtacles. Martial, Ep. xiv. 6 Cucullus. Juvenal, Sat; vi. 5 Mart. Ep. xi. 1 Juven, Sat. i. and ix. Mart. ii. 8 Lampridius tell us, that the Emperor Alexander Severus ufed frequently to go to the public baths, and return to this place, clothed in the common bathing- habit, over which he wore a fcarlet la- cerna as a mark of royalty. 9 Paterc. lib. II. cap. 80; Propert. lib. III. r v 5° Cic. Phil. II. the c INTRODUCTION. the lacerna was univerfally adopted ■ , and became fo com- mon in the days of Auguftus, that he was offended, and commanded the JEdiles not to permit any perfon to enter the Forum, or the Circus, clothed with fuch a garment \ The lacerna was generally ufed by thofe who frequented the public ihows ; but it was laid afide, as a mark of refpect, the moment the Emperor entered the theatre \ The Penula 4 is generally thought to have refembled the lacerna, faving only that it was ihorter, and not fo full. It was worn, like the lacerna, above the tunic ; it had alio a hood s , and was ufed in the army, and, by people tra- velling, for protection againft the cold and rain 6 . It was fometimes covered with pile, or fur, for warmth-fake 7 ; and fometimes, for the fame reafon, it was made with ikins having the fur upon them 8 . This garment was not confined to any particular colour, and it was worn by the women 9 as well as the men. The Emperor Alexander Se* verus forbade the matrons of Rome to ufe the penula within the city, but allowed them to wear it in the country without any reftricYions '°. The Byrrhus. This garment Montfaucon conjectures to have been " almoft the fame thing as the lacerna, infomuch that the antients feem to have taken them indifferently, the one for the other. It is alfo thought," continues he, «« the lacerna took the name of byrrhus from a Greek word fig- nifying fomething reddifh it being ufually made of a red Colour. The byrrhus had a cowl annexed, as well as the lacerna ; and hence it came to pafs that the name of byrrhus was given to a cowl, or cap, that was ufed for a head- covering 'Y* 1 Juven. et Mart, ubi fupra. a Sueton. in Vit. Auguft. cap. 40. 3 Ibid, in Claud, cap. vi. 4 ent» & tp-sA'htj-ir) in Greek.' s Caputium; Pliny, lib. XXIV. cap. 15. « Cic. Att. xiii. Lucr. Sat. V. Senec. Epift. 87. 7 It was then called gaufape, or, gaw fapina panula. Petron. cap. 28. Ovid: Ars Amandi, lib. II. Perf. Sat. vi. s Scot tea. Mart. Ep. xiv. 9 Ibid. Epig. vi. 10 Montfaucon, lib. III. cap. xi. 11 Montfaucon, ubi fupra, cap. vii: The INTRODUCTION. ci The Caracalla was alfo a kind of pallium, or mantle, of Gaulifh origin, and fuppofed to differ but little in ihape from the lacerna. It was introduced among the Romans by the Emperor Antoninus, who, for that reafon, obtained the cognomen caracalla. It was a large loofe garment, having fleeves 1 and a hood. In its original ftate, the caracalla reached only to the middle of the thighs; but the Emperor caufed his to be made long enough to touch his feet \ The Bracca s , or Breeches, was a fpecies of vefture well known to the ancient Greeks, though rarely ufed by them ; indeed, it is mentioned as a proof of moderation in Alexander", after the conqueft of Perfia, that he adopted the Perfian habit rather than the Median, and refilled to wear the long yeft, the bracca, and the tiara, appertaining to the latter 4 . Pythagoras wore the bracca 5 ; and it is rather ex- traordinary that the example of fo eminent a man did not bring this garment into falhion with his countrymen. The figure dancing, at the bottom of the fixth plate belonging to the Introduction, is depi&ed with breeches, which apparently were made of the fame kind of fluff as the under- tunic : fo are thofe worn by the figure on horfeback upon the feventh plate. The Roman players ufed a fpecies of breeches, as Cicero tells us, for decency-fake 6 . There are no parts of the ancient drefs more difficult to define than thofe appropriated to the legs and the feet. Nei- ther the Greeks nor the Romans, generally fpeaking, wore any covering for the legs below the tunic,, or above the liga- ture of the ihoes, excepting in the time of war, when they ufed the greaves, or military boots 7 ; and, among the Romans, we muff alfo except thofe who encompafied their legs and thighs with bandages, or rollers of cloth \ which they 1 In this particular it certainly differed irom the lacerna, which had no fleeves. 2 Montfaucon, ut fupra. 3 Bpaxof, vel 'Qpctxct-. 4 Plutarch, in Vit. Alexandria 5 iElian, Var. Hift. lib. II. cap. 32, 6 Subligaculum, vel fubligar, verecun- diae causl Cic. Off. lib. L cap. 35. Juvcna), Sat. vi. ver. 60. Martial, Epi- gram iii. ver. 87. 7 VLtriuihc, ocre Montfaucon thinks this ornament was 4 Martial, Ep. ii. 293 vii. 34. worn behind the heelj lib. II. cap. 4. ornaments, INTRODUCTION. ciii ornaments, it is thought, were confined to the Patrician Senators. The lhoes of the wealthy were not only painted with various colours, but often fumptuoufly adorned with gold, filver, and precious ftones Heliogabolus had his lhoes let with diamonds, interfperfed with other jewels, beauti- fully engraved by the firft artifts ; which certainly was a ufelcfs extravagance, for the excellency of the workmanihip, of courfe, was loft when the lhoes were upon his feet. The Emperor Aurelian did not approve of the painted lhoes, which he thought were too effeminate for men ; and therefore he prohibited the ufe of the mullei, and of white, yellow, and green lhoes — the laft he called fhoes of the colour of ivy leaves 2 . Sometimes the lhoes were turned up with a point : they were then called bowed jhoes 3 . The lhoes ufed by the Greeks and the Romans may pro- perly be divided into two claries ; the one, including thofe that covered the whole of the foot, and fometimes reached to the middle of the legs, called ypodemata 4 in the Greek, and in the Latin by leveral names, as calceus ^ mulleus, pero, pkxzcafium ; the other comprehended fuch as covered the fole of the foot only, and were made fall to it with thongs of leather, or of other materials : thefe were deno- minated pedila 5 by the Greeks, and by the Romans caliga, campagus, fole a, crepida, fandalium, Gall tea, baxea, and Sicyonia ; and fometimes the calceus is taken for a general appellation, including all the reft. The Calceus of the Romans was probably the fame as the Ypodema of the Greeks ; for, both appear to have covered the foot, and were faftened with a latchet, lace, or thong 6 . The calceus was always worn, with the toga, when perfons went abroad 7 , unlefs they were about to take a long journey; and then the folea was fometimes ufed as its fubftitute 8 . 1 Plant. Bacch. Plin. Nat. Hift. lib. XXXVII. cap. 2. 2 Calcei bederacei. 3 Calcei repamU. Cicer, de Nat. Div. lib. T. cap. 2)0. 4 Txoh^a. 6 Corrigra, vel ligula. Cic. de Divin. 7 Cic. Phil. ii. Plin. Epift. vii. Suet. A-us;. cap. 73. 8 Cic. Mil. 10, The civ INTRODUCTION. The Mullens refembled the calceus fo far, as to cover the whole of the foot, but differed from it in colour, and per- haps m form. Thefe fhoes, as we have feen above, were not permitted to be worn by the common people ; their colour commonly was fcarlet, but fometimes it was pur- ple 1 ; and it is thought they had high foles made of cork, or fome light material, to give an addition to the height of the wearer. The Phascafium was a fpecies of ihoe worn by the priefts at Athens 2 , and alfo ufed by the Romans. It was com- monly made with white leather, thin and light, and co- vered the whole of the foot. At Rome, it leems to have been adopted principally by foppifh and effeminate perfons. The Pero, as obferved before, was made with untanned hides, and, in the latter times, worn only by ruftics and the lowed clafles of the people. The Caliga was a military fhoe, or fandal, compofed of a large fole, fattened with ftronger fillets to the foot; and the foldings of the thongs were ufually carried above the ankles, which, together with the top of the foot, ap- peared between the interrtices of the bandages. The caiigce were fometimes ftrengthened with nails 3 , and were chiefly appropriated to the common foldiers, though the Emperor Gailienus wore the caligas ornamented with jewels mitead of the campagi 4 . The Campagus was a Ihoe ufed by the Emperors and generals of the army. It does not appear to have differed, much from the caliga in its form ; but the ligatures were more clofely interwoven with each other, and oftener croffed over the foot and the ankles than thofe appertaining to the caliga, and bore a greater refemblance to net-work. With the campagus I fhould be inclined to rank the- beautiful peddce\ which Homer gives to Agamemnon and; 1 Rvbrimullei, et purpurei. Perf. Sat. v. ver. 169. Vir.g. Eel. v.ii. ver. 32. a Senec. de Benef. lib. VII. cap. 21. 3 Clavis fuffixa. Plutarch informs us that Alexander the Great reproved Ag- non the Teian for wearing filver nails in his fhoes, In Vit. Alexandri. 4 Saying, the Caaipagi were nothing but nets ; alluding to the redundant in- terlacing of the bandages belonging to* them. Montfaucon, lib. II. cap. 4. 5 Hot 7 t 5* t/wcu Xi^ac^v 1 Kerala xefict Iliad, lib. II. ver. 44 ; et alibi freq. the INTRODUCTION. cv the other Grecian commanders. The word pedula^ how- ever, feems to have been a general denomination; for, it is applied by the Poet, with the fame adje&ive, to the fhoes, or l'andals, of Juno \ Hefiod calls this Goddeis the golden- fandal wearer*. The Solea, the Crepida, the Sandalium, and the Gallica, were all of them fpecies of fandals, fattened, like the ca- Iiga and the campagus, with fillets, or thongs, about the feet and ancles ; but it is impoflible, at this diftance of time, to afcertain the peculiar points in which the differ- ence between them confided. The foleas, it is faid, might not, in ftricl: decorum, be worn with the toga 3 ; and, indeed, it was reckoned effe- minate to appear with them in the ftreets of Rome 4 . Ca- ligula, however, was regardlefs of this rule, and not only wore the foleae in public, but permitted all who pleafed to follow his example, and ufe them in the theatre \ The foleae might be worn, in the country, with the penula and the tunic, or by perfons on a journey 6 ; and alio at feafts but, in the laft inftance, they were to be put from the feet when the repaft began 7 . The bandages of the crepida fometimes reached to the calf of the legs The gallica, like the folea, might not be worn with the toga 9 . The Baxea was alfo of the fandal-kind, and worn, ac- cording to Arnobius and Tertullian, by the Grecian Phi- losophers ; and it appears from the former author, that it was made of the leaves of the palm-tree. The baxea? are noticed by Plautus ; but nothing refpecling their form is fpecified IO , 1 Iliad, lib. XIV. ver. 1865 where 6 Cic. Mil. cap. 10. the whole verfe is precifely the fame as it n Plaut. True. ii. 4. Horat. Sat. ii. Hands in the foregoing note, and maybe cap. 8. Martial, Ep. in. ver. 50. tranflated, Beneath her fair feet Jbe bound 8 Montfaucon, ubi fupra. the beautiful faml ah. 9 Montfaucon thinks it probable that a Xft^oTTtrUov. Theog. ver. 454. the French word galhches, ufed for their 3 Montfaucon, ubi fupra. wooden fhoes, was derived from the * Cic. Hor. Re'p. cap. 21. Verr. lib. Latin gallica j ibid. V. 1. 33. Liv. lib. XXIX. cap. 19. *° Ibid. s Suet, in Vif. Calig. cap. 52, e e The cvi INTRODUCTION. The Sicyonia, Cicero tells us, was ufed in races ; which gives us room to conclude, that it was a very light kind of fandal. Lucian fpeaks of it as adorned with white focks \ To thefe we may add the Sculponea, worn by the country people 2 ; and the (hoes with foles of wood 3 , ufed by the poor : the latter, it feems, were alfo put upon perfons condemned for parricide 4 . The Soccus, according to Montfaucon and other learned writers, was a plain kind of fhoe, and fufficiently large to receive the foot with the caliga, crepida, or any of the other (hoes upon it, like the galloches of the Francifcans ; and, in fupportof the argument, we are told that, in fome countries, the galloches are called focci to this day. Cicero thought the foccus was a ihoe derived from the Greeks : it was, however, worn by the comic players s , and, for that reafon, the denomination is claflically ufed to fignify Comedy ; as the word cothurnus is placed for f ragedy 6 . The Cothurnus 7 , or bujkin, was anciently worn by the Greeks, and became famous, after it had been introduced upon the ftage by Sophocles in his tragedies 8 . The co- thurni were made to fit either foot, and the foles were ele- vated j which gave an additional appearance of tallnefs to the wearer ; and, for this reafon, they were appropriated to the ufe of his heroes by the venerable Grecian Poet. They were alfo ufed for the fame purpofe by the Roman tragedians. The cothurnus is thus defcribed by an ancient author: — A ligature was fattened to the fole, which pafTed between the great toe and the toe next to it ; where it was divided into two bands, which, pafling through the latchets, fecured the fole upon the foot : thefe bands were then carried high upon the legs, and croffed or platted over each other after the manner, as it is thought, of the 1 Montfaucon, ubi fupra, e Montfaucon, ubi fupra. 2 Cato de Re Ruftica, cap. 59. 7 Kefiu/wf. • 3 Solc * Iig»e*. » And hence, to this day, the trage- 4 Au&. ad Herenn. lib. I. c. 13. Cic. dians are with us denominated the Heroes des Invent, lib. II. cap. 50. of the Bujkin. s Soccus comicus. Plin. lib. II. Epift. 1. campagi. INTRODUCTION. cvii campagi. "And probably," fays Montfaucon, " the cothurni were anciently worn by the kings, princes, and magistrates of Greece V It is certain, however, that they were in- discriminately ufed by both fexes*. The Romans ufed focks, or feet-coverings, made of wool or goats' hair, called udones ; but it was thought effeminate for the men to wear them \ The Knemis 4 of the Greeks, called by the Romans ocrea, was a greave, or part of armour appropriated to the defence of the leg and the knee ; and fometimes it is tranflated a military boot, or bujkin : but the latter inter- pretation is certainly very improper. According to Homer, the knemis was ufed in the Trojan war ; and, in its ancient form, it bore but fmall refemblance to the boots of modern times. It was calculated only to defend the fronts and fides of the leg, and therefore frequently was not clofed behind. It was ulually made of metal, and did not reach below the inftep, that it might be no impediment to the free ufe of the foot. Laertes, the Father of UlyfTes, is defcribed by Homer in a ruftic habit, with greaves of leather s ; and, with us, the labourers in the country, when they are binding up bufhes, or making hedges with thorns, have a greave, or boot -leg* as I think it is called, upon the right leg, with which they prefs the bufhes together. It is ge- nerally made of very thick, or double, leather ; reaches above the knee ; defcends to the inftep ; and is faftened, at the back part of the leg, with ftraps and buckles ; form- ing, in my idea, a very exact counterpart of the ancient Grecian knemis, which, we know from good authority, was fometimes worn upon the right leg only 6 . Homer beftows the epithet of beautiful upon the greaves belonging to the Grecian commanders ; and tells us, they were well faftened upon the legs with clafps, or buckles, of filver 7 ; 1 Montfaucon, ubi fupra, cap. 7. a Virgil, iEn. I. 3 Mart. Ep. xiv. Ver. 140. 5 Bowa* xv«f*»3i{ f«9r1«i ; bovittce CCfttp confute) OdylT. lib. XXIV. ver. 228. 6 Veget. lib. I. cap. 20. Ocreas pulchras argenteis fibulis apta tas. Iliad, lib. XL ver, 17, 18, et alibi freq. and cviii INTRODUCTION. and this fpecies of leg-artnour was worn in common by the foldiers ; for, fpeaking of the army collectively, he often calls them well-greaved Greeks \ I have given feveral fpe- cimens of the Grecian greaves j and the moft ancient of them I conceive to be upon the figure at the bottom of the fifth plate belonging to the Introduction, of which two views are given : they are there represented exceedingly clumfy, and, according to the appearance, were made of the rough hides of ibme animals, and are faftened behind the legs with a fmgle ligature upon the middle of the calf. In the two ancient figures ftanding to the right, upon the fame plate, we fee the indication of greaves, which feem to be of metal % and of a much neater fabrication : they do not, however, cover fo much of the legs ; and the li- gatures, by which they were confined, do not appear. Upon the eighth plate we find them more perfectly repre- fented : thole upon the middle figure feem to have an or- namented border at the top ; and thofe belonging to the other figure, which are feen both before and behind, have an indented border upon the pofterior parts, but the ap- pearance of the ligature is alfo wanting. The Greeks and the Romans commonly wore their hair fhort : it was, however, combed with great care 3 , and fometimes perfumed j and this cuftom was prevalent even in the army 4 . > Baldnefs was accounted a deformity among the Romans 5 ; and it is faid, that Julius Caefar wore a crown of laurel to conceal his want of hair 6 . It is, indeed, certain that, under the Emperors, fuch as were bald uied a kind of peruke 7 , made with falle hairs fixed upon a (kin 8 . This 1 ,Ei/'i«*))x»?t? A%ai or Hefiod fays, thofe belonging to Hercules galericuhm. Sueton. Vit. Calig. & were made of a valuable kind of brafs, Othon. Juvenal, Sat. vi.ver. 120. tfetx"X^ l0 . Suet. Her. ver 122. 8 Crines fifti, vel fuppofttt. Mart. Ep. 3 Senec. de Brev, Vit. cap. 12. xiv. ver. 50. contrivance INTRODUCTION. cix contrivance probably was not known in the time of Julius Csefar, and, for that realon, he had recourfe to the laurel crown. The profefTors of philofophy let their hair and beards grow, to give themfelves the air of gravity \ Slaves, for diftinetions fake, wore long hair and beards ; but, when any one of them was manumitted, he fhaved his head and beard, and wore a woollen cap called Pileus \ Thofe efcaped from lhipwreck alfo fhaved their heads 3 ; and thole who had been accufed of a crime, but were ac- quitted, cut off their hair, fhaved, and went to the Ca- pitol to return thanks to Jupiter 4 . The ancient Romans permitted their beards to grow, until Publius Ticinius Maenas brought barbers from Sicily, and firft introduced the cuftomof fhaving at Rome*, which prevailed till the time of Hadrian ; and that Emperor, to cover certain excrefcences on his chin, revived the fafhion of wearing beards 6 ; but, after his deceafe, it foon died away, and (having was again renamed. There was no let time for the young men of Rome to fhave their beards : they fometimes did it when they af- fumed the toga virilis, or ufually at the age of twenty- one ; though Auguftus, it feems, did not fhave till he was twenty-five . At the firft performance of this operation, it was ufual with the perfon fhaved to hold a feftival, and for his friends to fend him prefents 8 . They did not always fhave the beard, but fometimes clipped it with fciflars % and fometimes they plucked it out with nippers, or fmali pincers I0 . They alfo made ufe of various arts to reftrain the growfn 4 of the hair, and to clear it away where they thought it looked unhandfome ; but all thefe practices were 1 Horat. Sat. I. ver. 3 ; Art. Poet. 7 Suet. Cal. cap. 10. Macrob. in Som. ver. 297 ; et alibi. I. 6. Dio. lib. XLVIII. cap. 43. 2 Juven. Sat. v. ver, 171 j Plant. 8 Juven. Sat. iii ver 187. Mart. III. Amphit. A6t I. fc. 1. ver. 6. 3 Plaut. Rud. Acl I. fc. 2. » Tondtntes forfice* Suet. Vit. Aug* cap. 4 Mart Ep. ii. c. 74. Plin. Epift. vii. 79. s About the year of the city 454. 10 Called volfella. Suet. Jul. cap. 45, Plin. Nat. Hift lib. VII. cap. 59. et alibi. Mart. V. ver. 62. < Spart. Vit, Adrian, cap. 26. f f reckoned ex INTRODUCTION. reckoned effeminate \ In great families, Haves were kept on purpofe to drefs the hair, and to lliave ; and thefe offices were fometimes performed by females \ For the ufe of poor people, there were barbers' lhops 3 , which were much frequented, and where women alfo occafionally officiated. The Greeks and the Romans generally went bare- headed ; yet they were not deftitute of a variety of head- coverings, which they wore on particular occafions : fome of them appear to have been merely ceremonial ; but others, again, were adopted, becaufe they were ufeful. It is, unfortunately, true that we have little more than the names of moft of them remaining ; for which reafon^ very, little can be faid on this fubject. The Petafus 4 was a cap ufed by travellers, fomewhat refembling the round hat of the prefent day ; but, in its ancient flate, the brims do not appear to have been fo deep. Alexander the Great, we are told, ufed the petafus when he feafted ; Caligula permitted the people of Roms to wear the petafus at the theatre, to fnade their faces from the fun 5 . The Romans had alfo another kind of cap, refembling a helmet, which they ufed, when they travelled, called Galerus V Refpecting the Caufia and Crobylum, which were co- verings for the head, we only know that the former was- worn by the Lacedemonians, and. the latter by the Athenians V The Infula, or mitre y was a white woollen fafcta, or riband, or, as fome fay, a mixture of white ami yellow,, which was tied round the head, from one temple to the other, and fattened with a knot behind, fo that the two? ends of the. bandage might hang down, one on each fide. . 1 GelL lib. VII, cap. 12. Plin. Epift, 29. 2 Ton/ores, Ovid, Met. XI. ver. 182 j unfirices, Cic. Tufc. ver. 20^ 3 Tonftrinx, Hor. Ep, i. Marti Epigr, & ver. 17. 4 II sW©-'. 5 Dio. lib.. LIX. c. 7-. 6 Virg. JEn. vii. ver. 688. 7 See Montfaucon, as above* This-. INTRODUCTIO N. cxi This appears to have been a ceremonial ornament, and worn only by fuch as facrificed \ The Pileus% or woollen cap, was ufed by the Greeks, and fometimes it was fubftituted for a lining to the helmet. This cap was worn by the Romans at the public games* and at feftivals 3 , and by fuch as had been flaves, after they had obtained their freedom 4, It was alfo ufed,. for the fake of warmth, by the aged and infirm \ Homer gives to Laertes, who is defcribed in a ruftic habit, a cap made with goats' fkin, which he calls a helmet 6 ; and probably it might have refembled one or other of the helmets of leather, which the Reader will find mentioned below. The Byrrhus was the name of a cap, or hood, ufed by the Romans in the time of the Lower Empire. The Romans often covered their heads with a portion of the toga, which they removed, as a token of refpecl:, on meeting a perfon of fuperior rank 7 ; the penula, the lacerna, and other garments, were alfo provided, with hoods, which anfwered the purpofe of hats, and might be drawn over the head, or thrown back upon the fhoulders, at pleafure. In time of war, the head- covering worn by the Greeks and by the Romans was the helmet. Several kinds of helmets, according to Homer, were in ufe among the Greeks as early as the fiege of Troy ; but that which oc- curs moft frequently is called by the Poet Kynein \. and corresponded with the Galea of the Romans. Upon the kynein, as well for defence of the head as for ornament, there was a kind of cone, or, rather, elevated ridge, exr tending from the pofterior part over the fummit, and curving forward in the front. This protuberance, in the days of Homer, was decorated with, horfe-hair 9 , or fome 1 See Montfaucon, as above. « A,ymi *vnn*. Odyff. lib. XXIV. ven * 11^05. 230. » Hor. Epifts i, ver. 13. Suet. Nero, 1 Plutarch, inVit. Pomp. Quaeft.Rom. c. 57. cap. 10, * Thence called pileati; Liv.lib.XXIV. 8 &v»t* cap. 16. f feth-equinis-comans, is an epif K Ovid. Ars Amandi, lib. I. ver. 733, thet continually applied to the helmet. other, cxii INTRODUCTION other fubflance made in imitation of it, which was called the crejl. The creft belonging to the helmet made by Vulcan for Achilles is called by Homer the golden creft, and the goluen hair 1 ; and probably the Poet me «v»} ibid. lib. IX. ver. 29, plume of fine white feathers upon his 30. helmet. Plutarch, in Vit. Alexandri. 7 IloXvKtrof *^ac «t<6'a.o?, acu-pi8um li* 3 Then called rgv ftif X ^ opinion in guards, INTRODUCTION, cxvii guards were connected at the back 1 . Or, if it be thought that the thorax was fattened with ftraps and buckles, or with laces paffing over the back, fome- thing refembling a woman's flays, I have no objection. We may, I think, with propriety, through the different aggrandifements of the thorax, trace the origin of the body- armour, which fo completely enclofed the warriors of the later ages ; but, even in that ftate, it was not unknown to the Greeks in ancient times, as the little bronze, twice re- prefented upon the eighth plate, will fufficiently de- monftrate. The thorax of Agamemnon, according to Homer, was fplendidly ornamented, having upon it ten rows of black cyanus*, twelve of gold, and twenty of tin, inclofed by three azure dragons 3 rifing from either fide to the fummit of the pectoral, in the form of a rainbow. The thorax ap- pertaining to Menelaus is faid to have been double*, having, if I underftand the Poet clearly, a zone, or girdle, plated with brafs beneath it 5 ; in like manner, alio, we find that Agamemnon had a variegated belt \ ftrengthened with plates of filver, under his pectoral, which repelled the point of a weapon that had pafled through the latter. The thorax was not always made of metal : the Egyptians ufed pectorals of linen curioufly fabricated \ which, it is faid, were not only lighter than thofe of metal, but better calculated to refift the point of the enemies' weapons. Alexander the Great, having obtained a pectoral of this kind from the fpoils of the battle at Ifis, wore it ever afterwards in preference to any other s . 1 Theiejhoulder-piecesvr&ce alfo made * H5' wmfltv (tip* n x«< ibid, of metal. Hefiod, defcribing the arms ver. 186, 187. Compare alfo lines 21 < of Hercules, fays, he placed upon his and 216. moulders Apuj aXxfyw cnhpov, the barm- 6 z»vw $a>p»xo,- tve ? 9e ; Iliad, lib. XL repelling iron; Scut. Hercul. ver. 128. ver. 235; and, in the next line but one, 2 MiXavo; kv*™*. Iliad, lib. XI. ver. it is called g» r «? vs^maXoc. 24- , 7 Pages v. and xiv.of thislntrodudtion. 3 Ku«v lol fyaxafles tj«?. Ibid. ver. 26. 8 Plutarch,, in Vita Alexandri. 4 AiTrtiooj S^f. Iliad, lib. IV. ver. h h Even cxviii INTRODUCTION. Even the word lorica, or mail, may aptly enough be applied to the ancient thorax ; for, if we examine the little figure, with the head thrown back, upon the eighth plate, we jfhall there find, upon the left fide of the body, the indication of chain- mail ; and the fmoothnefs on the right fide may, I think, be eafily accounted for. This figure, in its original ftate, was evidently fupported by another, whofe left hand appears at the bottom of the thorax ; and part of the right arm, broken off near the elbow, is feen on the oppofite fide ; what is now wanting of this arm, when perfect, was brought forward; and, to- gether with the hand, covered, I prefume, that portion of the armour which is plain. In procefs of time, the thorax underwent variety of changes and enlargements, until it was formed into a complete body-armour ; and in this ftate we fee it exemplified by the figure represented in two points of view upon the fame plate ; where the back is equally as well defended from danger as the front. The dark figure upon the fifth plate, which, as we ob- ferved before, is of very high antiquity, has no fhield, but a piece of white drapery is call over his left arm to anfwer the purpofe. The figure oppofite to him, which is alfo very ancient, has a prodigious large round fhield anfwering exactly to the large Jhield 1 which, Homer tells us, was ufed by the commanders at the Trojan war. The fevenfold fhield of Ajax is almoft proverbial. The fhield of Aga- memnon was furrounded with ten circles of brafs inclofing twenty bones of tin ; and in the middle there was a bofle of black cyanus, having "the terrible afpectof the fierce-eyed Gorgon" upon it. The thong within the curve of the fhield was of filver, and above it an azure dragon with three heads growing from one neck \ But the fhield of Achilles was infinitely more fuperb, and abounded with fculptures, ' even to a great redundancy : the Poet feemed to have been delighted with defcribing it ; and has beftowed no lefs than one hundred and twenty lines of the eighteenth book 1 Saxoj [JttFx. 9 Iliad, lib. XI. ver. 33 — 40. Of INTRODUCTION. cxix of the Iliad to that pnrpofe. In like manner, Hefiod thought the fhield of Hercules a fubjecl: fufficient for a whole poem. The Grecian jfhields varied not only in their form, but in their fize. We find one upon the fifth plate that is an im- perfecl fexagon ; others we meet with that are nearly fquare, and rather larger in proportion ; and others again are reel: angular, and wider than they are high. The fword-blades in general, according to Homer, were made of brafs ; but the hilts of the fwords were embel- liihed with ftuds of gold, or filver ; and the fcabbards were richly adorned with the fame precious metals \ In one paflage, however, the Poet fpeaks of young men who had fwords of gold hanging from ftraps of filver 2 . The fword -belt, or, more properly, baldric ; for, it was worn over the right moulder, and defcended acrofs the bread and the back to the left hip, where it buckled ; and was made faft to the fcabbard of the fword, as the Reader will find it reprefented by the figure holding a fpear and a fhield upon the feventh plate of the Introduction. This part of the military habiliment was varioufly decorated : Homer fometimes calls it " a variegated belt 3 ;" and fometimes "a belt ornamented with curious workmanfhip 4 and fometimes 64 a fplendid belt of Tyrian purple s ." Plutarch tells us, that the fword-belt which Alexander the Great wore in all engagements was much richer in workmanfhip than any other part of his armour : it was made by old Helicon, and prefented to him, as a mark of their refpe6t, by the Rhodians 6 . 1 The Poet fays of Agamemnon : AjU^t S' Ct£ UlXOKTU /3«X:1o £» 0» 7)\oi Affvpiov; xzvvioKrui ctoplrif'craw afnigo$. Iliad, lib. XI. ver. 29, 30, 3 1. Which paffage may be rendered literally : ¥ About bis fhoulders be hung bis fword, in nvbic/i 'were glittering ftuds of gold and to the filver fcabbard ivere fitted flraps of gold." Thefe ftraps, or lamina, of gold were for the purpofe of fixing the fcab- berd to the belt, or rather baldric, de- pending from the right moulder. See the figure ftanding, plate VII. Iliad, lib. XVIII. ver. 597, 598. 3 £»r«c TravanoXo;. Iliad, IV. ver. 186. 4 Zwrflj &*i&*Xeoc Ibid, line 133. * Zwrng ««vo?. Iliad, lib. VII. ver. 305. 6 In Vita Alexandria We cxx INTRODUCTION, We learn from Herodotus, that the ufe of linen was very ancient in Greece : it was imported, he tells us, from Colchis and from Egypt 1 . The women, it appears, ufed garments of linen earlier than the men ; and, at all times m much greater quantities. Pliny, citing a paffage from Varro, fays it had long been a cuftom in the family of the Serrani for the women not to wear robes of linen 2 • which, being mentioned as a thing extraordinary, proves that linen garments were ufed by the Roman 'ladies in times remote. It is difficult, however, to determine at what time this article was firft ufed as a fliift, or body- drefs A veftment of this kind, called jupparum, was worn by the unmarried Roman damfels as early as the time or Plautus 3 . The tunics of the women were larger than thofe of the men and reached to the feet ; excepting thofe worn by the Lacedemonian girls, which were not only very fhort but divided at the lides fo as to fhew their thighs * • and this indecency was countenanced by the laws of Lycureus The Roman women had leveral kinds of tunics, which are mentioned by Plautus, but, unfortunately, without any delcription ; fo that little more concerning them than their names is now remaining. The Regilla, according to Montfaucon, was a kind of white tunic, worn by virgins the day before their marriage 5 . 1 he Jmpluviata and the Mendicula were tunics j but their colour, form, and texture, are totally unknown. The Ralla, which is thought to be the fame as the Rara, and the Spina, differed from each other ; the firft being of a thinner and loofer texture than the latter. They had a tunic alfo, called Crocotula, the diminutive of crocota • which was an upper garment in ufe among the Grecian women, and received its name, Montfaucon fays, either from crocus, faff ran colour ; or from croce\ the woof oi any texture . J • Naf nTlibx'TX ' 4 ? enCC Call6d ****** 3 %*t Lucan . : « Hi,, lib. VIlI.cap. 4 8. Phar. hb.II. vcr.363. i Lib. I. cap. n and 12. The INTRODUCTION. cxxi The toga, in the infancy of the Roman empire, was worn by the women as well as by the men ; in after times, the former afTumed a different robe, called Jiola, which reached to the feet, having a broad fringe, or border, at the bottom \ Courtezans, and women condemned for adultery, were not permitted to wear the (tola \ The Roman women, married as well as unmarried, ufed girdles ; and, befides them, they fometimes wore a broad iwath, or bandage, round their breads, called Jirophlum 3 ; which feems to have anfwered the purpofe of the bodice, or ftays, and had a buckle, or bandage, upon the left fhoulder 4 . The Mitra, or girdle, of the Greeks, probably refembled the ftrophium of the Romans : the former was worn by the Grecian virgins. Hefiod applies an epithet to the Mufes, fignifying that they were girt with golden mitres s . Theo- critus, in one of his paftorals, introduces a damfel com- plaining to a fhepherd of his rudenefs, faying he had loofed her mitra, or girdle ; and he tells her, he means to de- dicate the fame to Venus 6 . The plated belt worn by Menelaus beneath the thorax was alfo called mitra' '. The Zone 8 was a part of drefs of high antiquity : Homer defcribes the Goddefs Juno binding round her waift a zone, elegantly formed, with an hundred foldings, or fringes 9 . It probably differed from the imas, which fhe afterwards borrowed from Venus, and bound over the zone. The girdle that belonged to Venus was wrought, or embroidered, with the needle 10 ; and the Poet tells us, 44 fhe loofed it from her bread." But I do not find any mention of clafps or buckles appertaining to either. From the common uie of 1 This limbus, or fringe, was called injiita. Hor Sat. i. 1 Hence called to%at 6wTva/*'rl« ■nrXoxipw, with a plaited, or interwoven, girdk. Idyll, vii. 171. »i8. 3 Hor. Sat. i. ver. 99. Virg. JEh. I. ver. 648, et alibi. 4 See page xcvii. 5 Odyfley, lib. VI. ver. 100, et infra. 6 Aixitttoiri, om«.£oX»j. 7 Montfaucon, chap. ii. 8 See page c. ^ Montfaucon, chap. xii. We » cxxiv INTRODUCTION. We learn from Theocritus, that the Theriftrion 1 was a veil, or light fummer-cloak, worn by the women; and, from the thinnefs of the materials, it was eafily torn, ef- pecially in a crowd \ The fame author informs us, that the Tompechanon 3 was a fummer mantle, ufed bv the females both before and after marriage, which does not appear to have covered the head, for they commonly wore the Tholian \ or hat, with this garment. The Tarentine garment was ufed by the Greek women, and occasionally by the men ; it is faid by Lucian to have been white and comely, and fo thin, that the form of the body and the limbs might be difcovered through it. The Roman ladies, in the latter times, had a fine robe, or mantle, which was called eye las from the rotundity of its form 5 . The Mavors, or Maforte, called alfo Ricinium, was a fpecies of hood, or veil, ufed in time of mourning, which covered the head, and reached to the lhoulders 6 . The fhoes of the ladies, and efpecially among the Ro- mans, formed a very expenfive part of their drefs : in ge- neral, they were white 7 ; but perfons of opulence did not confine themfelves to any colour; we find them black, fcarlet, purple, yellow, and green ; they were often not only richly adorned with fringes, and embroideries of gold, but fet with pearls and precious ftones of the moft cofhly kind 8 ; and thefe extravagances were not confined to per- fons of rank ; they were imitated by thofe of lower llations, and became fo prevalent, at the commencement of the third century, that even the luxurious emperor Heliogabalus thought it necetfary to publiih an edi&, pro- hibiting the ufe of fuch expenfive lhoes, excepting to women of quality 9 . 1 0«^ P ,o'. Idyll, xv.ver. 69. 6 Cicero. Leg. lib, II. cap. 23. Serv. * Such an accident is defcribed by the in JEn. I. ver. 2,68. Poet ; ibid. ver. 69. 7 Ovid. Ars Amandi, lib. III. ver. 3 TvpnixxHtv, ibid. ver. fi, et Idyll. 271. xxvii ver. 30. « pn n . N at . Hift . lib> Ix> cap _ * © >»«v 3 tbid. Idyll, xv. ver. 39. ? Montfaucon, vol. III. part ii. cap. * Juven. Sat. vL ver. 2 58, Suet. CaU cap- 52. The INTRODUCTION, cxxv The women wore the clofe fhoe, or calcens, and the folea, and the crepida, as well in the city of Rome as in country ; but the form of their fhoes does not appear to have differed materially from thofe of the men. Gloves 1 feem to have been firft invented to protect the hands of labouring people, when they were working among the bufhes ; and Homer has defcribed Laertes, the father of Ulyffes, in his retirement, with gloves upon his hands 2 ; but without giving us the leaft information re- fpecting their form, their fize, or the material with which they were compofed ; but moft probably it was leather. Among the Romans gloves feem to have been more common than with the Greeks ; and under the Emperors they were made with fingers 3 , though others were without them, and refembled the mittens of the prefent time. From the reprefentation which Homer has given of Juno attiring herfelf, we may form fome faint idea of the fafhionable drefs among the ladies of quality in his time* He follows her to her toilet ; and tells us, that fhe firft combed her hair, and then with her fingers interwove, or braided, the fhining locks 4 . This paffage is paraphrafed by Pope in the following manner ; and, though it will not admit of a literal investigation, feems to convey the true meaning of the Poet : " Thus, while flie breath'd of Heav'n with decent pride, Her artful hands the radiant trelTes tied ; Part on her head in mining ringlets roll'd, Part o'er her lhoulders wav'd, like melted gold." The ornaments which were ufually added we find in an- other part of the Iliad ; where Andromache is reprefented, in excefs of grief, tearing them from her head : unfortu- nately, however, little more than the bare names are re- corded ; they are four, excluuve of the kredemnon, or veil ; the firft is called the defmata 5 , diftinguiihed by an 1 Xttgi^K, vel ^«foGr)H«f ; and in Latin 4 Iliad, lib. XIV. ver. 176, 177. ztmn'icce. s Areata ffifwXesvIa; ibid. lib. XXII. * OdylT. lib. XXIV. ver. 229. ver. 468. J Then called digitalia, Var. I, 55. k k adjective cxxvi INTRODUCTION. adjective denoting fplendor or elegance, and it is thought to have been an embroidered fillet, or ribbon ; the feconrf is named arnpyx \ which is uiually rendered a head-lace; the third is the kecryphalon \ generally taken for the caul of net- work that inclofed the hair ; and the laft is the anadejme 3 , which, from the epithet intertwined, or woven, applied to it by the Poet, may properly enough, in my opinion, be confidered as a wreath or diadem. Among the ancient Romans, the women's head-drefs was exceedingly fimple : they feldom went abroad ; and, when they did, their heads were always covered with a veil ; but, as riches and luxury increafed, the lady's toilet was proportionally filled with ornaments for the perfon ; fa that it was called The Women" 's World*. They not only anointed the hair, and ufed rich per- fumes s , but fometimes they painted it c ; they alfo made it appear of a bright yellow colour, by the amftance of wafhes and compofitions made for that purpofe 7 ; but they never ufed powder, which is a much later invention. They frizzed and curled the hair with hot irons \ and fometimes they railed it to a great height, by rows of curls one above the other, into the form of an helmet 9 j and fuch as had not fufficient hair of their own, ufed falfe hair to complete the lofty pile 10 ; and thefe curls appear to have been fattened by hair-pins 11 . The Grecian virgins ufed to bind, or braid, their hair in a multiplicity of knots ; but that cuftom, as well as painting the under part of the eye-lids with black paint, was difcommended by an ancient Poet Ia . Perfons of rank had flaves to perform for them the offices 1 Apwt; vitta ; ibid. ver. 469 . 8 Calldo ferro, vel calamiftris, -vibra- *■ K«pnpa*o» 3. reticulum^ ibid. bant, cri/pabant, vel intorqmbant crints. 3 mtitfo a>«5io-jUjj 3 ibid. Virg.iEn. XII. ver. 100. Cic. Brut. 95. 4 Mundus muliebtis; Liv. lib. XXXIV. » In graaus formabant—m galea modum ca P- 7- fuggerebant* Tertull. de Cult. Foem. 7. s Ovid. Met. V. ver. 5.3. «* Hor. Sat. i. ver. 8. 48. 6 TibulL 1. 9. 43 3 III. 4. 28. Crinates acus, Propert. iii o 7 Val.Max. II. i. 5. Plin. NaU.Hift. Dio. lib. I cap. 4. V * °' Jib. VII. ao. 33. 12 Frag. Naumachii, ver. 623 apud Poetas Minores Wintertoni. of INTRODUCTION. cxxvii of the toilet 1 : they held the mirror in their hand them- felves, to give directions; and Martial tells us, that, if the flaves unfortunately placed a hair-pin wrong, or omitted to twift the curls exactly as they were ordered, the mirror was thrown at the offenders' head, or, according to Juvenal, the whip was applied with much feverity \ It appears, indeed, that fometimes a number of women at- tended on thefe occafions, for no other purpofe than to direct the operation 3 . The married women ufed a kind of bodkin , which they managed very dexteroufly, to adjuft and divide their hair into two portions ; one turning to the right fide, and the other to the left ; and by this line of fe- paration the married ladies were diftinguimed from thofe t lat were unmarried. The hair was adorned with orna- ments of gold, with pearls, and with precious ftones ; and fometimes with garlands, or chaplets of flowers 5 : it was alio bound with fillets and ribands of various colours, and of various kinds 6 . The ribands appropriated to the hea 1-dreiTes of virgins differed from thofe of the married women 7 . And the ribands feem to have been a diftin- guiihing. mark of modeity ; as, on the contrary, a broad filler, or mitre, was of immodefty, being only worn by women of loofe character 3 , excepting fometimes, indeed, by effeminate perlons of the other fex 9 . — The net, or han--caul, for the purpofe of inclofing the hinder part of the hair, was in general ufage with the Grecian and the Ro man women. Thefe ornaments were frequently enriched with embroidery 10 ; and fometimes made fo thin, that Martial iarcaftically called them bladders ,f . Among the adornments of. the head, I know of none that claim priority to the ear-rings : they have been * Hor. Sat. u ver. 2. 98. 7 p r0 pert. IV. 12. Virg. Ma, II * Mart. Ep ii. ver. 66, Juvenal. ver. 168 Sat. vi. ver. 491, s j uvena ^ Sat. iii. ver. 66. Serv. in 3 Juvenal, ubi fupra. Ma. IV. ver. 216. 4 Acta difoiminales. 9 Cic. Rub. Poll. 10. *-K*\» >-'««; Horn. Iliad,, lib. 10 Called aifo reticulum awatum ; that XVIII. ver. 597 Corona ct ferta ; Plant. is, a Jit caul, or, rather, ornamented with Afcn. Ad IV. fc. i. ver. 58, gold. Juven. II. v. 96. 6 Crinales vittce v'elfa/ciie, » Fejtca ; Mart. VIII. ver. 33. falhionable cxxviti INTRODUCTION. fafhionable, as Montfaucon juflly obferves, in all ages, and almoft with all nations : we find them not only com- mon to both fexes, but frequently worn by children alfo, and fervants of the loweft clafs *. It is evident from Homer, that the Grecian women bored their ears for the admiffion of thefe ornaments. The Poet gives ear-rings to the God- defs Juno ; and the words he ufes on this occafion are li- terally thefe : " In her well-perforated ears z Jhe put the ear- rings of elaborate workmanjhip, having three eyes" in each 3 , that is, three pendents, or jewels, either made in the form of eyes, or fo called from their brightnefs. Juft fuch a pair of ear-rings, for the Poet ufes precifely tire fame words m both places, were presented to Penelope by Euryma- chus, one of her fuitors \ The extravagancy of the Grecian and Roman ladies in the purchafe of thefe ar- ticles of adornment almoft exceeds belief : Pliny fays, " They feek for pearls at the bottom of the Red Sea, and fearch the bowels of the earth for emeralds to ornament their ears 5 and Seneca tells us, that " a (ingle pair was worth the revenue of a large eftate;" and that lome women would wear at their ears " the price of two or three patri- monies 6 ;" and this vanity was not confined to the fair fex ; for, ear-rings of gold were worn by the young men of high rank 7 . In the Afiatic nations, it is well known, they are common to both fexes even in the prefent day. The falhion of the ear-rings, without doubt, was as va- riable as the materials they confifted of, which were filver, gold, pearls, emeralds, and every fpecies of precious (tones that could be procured. The ear-rings were not always worn for ornament only, but, out of (uperftition, as amulets, or oharms 8 . 1 Lib. II. cap. 3. « Senec. Vit. Beat. 17. a Et^flieij-t ^qQcwji y Iliad, lib. XIV. " Uxor tua locupletis domus aurlbus cenfum ver. 182. gerit" a Efnalx rcifawa pofoivl*', ibid. ver. 182, Vide Sueton. Vit. Jul. cap. 50 ; et Plin. 183. Inaures tribus-gemmarum-oculis in- ubi fupra. Jigncs elaboratas) Clarke. 7 " Auri tantum quantum puer molliti* * OdyiT. lib. XVIII. ver. 269. 297, injigne in auricula geftavit." Apuleius. fi Nat. Hift. lib. IX. cap. 15. 8 Auguit. Civ. Dei, Another INTRODUCTION. cxxix Another expenfive ornament, among the ladies both of Greece and Rome, was the Monile *, or necklace ; which was commonly made of gold, and fet with gems. Homer mentions a necklace, curioufly wrought with gold, inter- twined with amber, which Eurymachus prefented to Pe- nelope \ The monile was alfo ufed by the men, but then it was ufually twitted 3 : it was beftowed by the Romans upon the foldiers as a mark of honour and reward for their bravery. They had alfo chains compofed of rings, which were worn about the neck by both the fexes 4. There was an ornament called fegmentum, ufed by the matrons only, fuppofed by fome authors to be a kind of necklace ; but others take it for an embroidered riband, or fringe of pur- ple, fewed upon their garments s . The Bracelet for the arms was an article of adornment of high antiquity, and common both to the Greeks and to the Romans 6 . Bracelets were worn by the men, as well as the women, though not fo frequently by the former ; and thofe appertaining to the latter were probably richer, and adorned with precious ttones. The women fometimes wore ornaments round their legs called perifcelides ; but we know nothing refpeeting their form ; perhaps they refembled the tinkling ornaments which were common enough in the Afiatic countries 7 . Rings for the fingers are of 'great antiquity : it is thought, however, that the Romans derived the ufe of them from the Sabines \ At the time they were firft introduced, none but Senators and Equites were permitted to wear them of gold ; the privilege was afterwards extended to the Legionary Tribunes \ The plebeians wore rings of iron, excepting fuch a one as had been prefented with a 1 Ctyxoy. Sat. ii. ver. 124 ; et vi. ver. 89. Ovid, a Oppov xpt/o-Eov jjXsit'poKra &pjj.i»ov; Ars Amandi, lib. III. ver. 169. Odyir. lib. XVIII. ver. 294, 295. 6 YcU (0 », % x (( ?ft,y, et j3pa;^anr>}a; armilla. 3 Torquis; Virg. JEn. VII. ver. 351. 7 See page lvi. Hence called torques. 8 Liv. I. cap. 2. * Sueton. Galb. cap. 18. «> Ibid. lib. XXIII. cap. 12. Appjan de s Serv. in Mn. lib. I. ver. 658. Juven. Bell. Punic, cap. 63. Dio. XL VIII. cap. 1 1 gold cxxx INTRODUCTION. gold ring, for his valour in war, or for fome other defert \ Under the Emperors, the liberty of wearing golden rings became more general ; and was often granted for very frivolous reafons \ But Juftinian gave permiflion to every citizen to ufe his pleafure refpecting them 3 ; and fome were fo finical as to have light rings for the fummer, and heavier ones for the winter 4 . The ancient Romans rarely wore more than one ring, and that upon the third finger of the left hand 5 ; but afterwards the number was increafed, and fometimes they had one or more upon each finger ; but this was always confidered as an effemi- nacy 6 . The rings were laid afide at night, and when the wearer bathed ; and, in the time of mourning, it was alfo indecorous for a perfon fupplicating a favour to ap- pear with a ring upon his finger \ The rings were not only of gold, but frequently fet with precious ftones of various kinds, and embellilhed with curious fculptures, fuch as the images or bufts of the wearer's anceftors and friends, the portraitures of princes and famous men, the repre- lentation of great events, and variety of other devices 8 ; and they were often of prodigious value. Nonius a Se- nator, it is faid, was prescribed by Mark Antony for the fake of his ring, which was eftimated at no lefs than twenty thoufand feflerces 9 . Rings were ufed for various purpofes, and particularly for fignets ; they were alfo given as tokens, and in con- tracts and pledges, in any way :o . It appears, that any free- woman might wear a ring of gold ; and rings were worn by the females both before and after marriage l \ A 1 Cic. Ver. III. 8o. Sueton. Jul. i Teren. Heaut. iv. i. Liv. ix. cap. 7. eap. 39. Macrob. Sat. ii. ver. 10. et xliii. cap. 16. Val. Max. viii 1" a Plin. Nat. Hift. lib. XXXIII. cap. Suet. Aug. cap. 10 1. 1. 4. Suet. Galb. cap. 14. Vitet. cap. 8 Mart. Ep. ii. v. 50. Cic. Cat. in 1- 12. Tacit. Hift. lib. IV. cap. 3. Plin. Epift. X. Suet. Tib. <6. Cic! 3 Novel, cap. 78. Sext. 61. Plin. Nat. Hift. vii. 26. * Hence called femeftres. Juven. Sat. » Ibid. lib. XXXVI. cap. 6, I. ver, 28 ; et vii. ver. 89. *° Macrob. Sat. vii. Liv. lib. XXVII, s Hence called digitus anularis. Gel. cap. 28. Juftin, lib. II. cap. 12, X. 10. Macrob. Sat. vii. ver. 13. 11 Plaut. cap. iii. fc. 5. Hor, Qd, i, 6 Her. Sat. ii. ver. 7, 9. Mart. Ep. ver. 9. 23, Terentino Hecyra, IV,' v. ver. 62 \ et xi. ver. 60. fc, 1. . plain INTRODUCTION. cxxxi plain ring of iron without a gem, given to an unmarried woman, was a pledge of union ; fome fay, the ring might be of gold \ A ring given by a perfon at the point of death was efteemed a particular mark of his affection \ An iron ring was worn by a general at the time of his triumph 3 . Face-painting does not appear to have been known among the Grecian ladies in Homer's time. In thedrefling- room of Juno, as Euftathius juftly obferves, we meet with no wafhes for the face, no dies for the hair, and none of the artificial embellifhments fince put in practice : the goddefs had no mirror, and performed the duties of the toilet with her own hands \ A pofterior Greek poet, directing his advice to a young virgin, counfels her againftthe wafte of time in contemplating her form in the mirror, or in making many knots or braids with her hair ; and, above all, to avoid the painting or blacking her eyes beneath the eye-lafhes 5 ; which was a fafhion much practifed in the Afiatic nations \ The Roman women ufed variety of cofmetics, wafhes, and wafh-balls, to improve the colour of their faces 7 ; as well as different kinds of paints, fome of which were com- pofed of white lead, vermilion, and other pernicious in- gredients, exceedingly dangerous to ufe 8 . They went fo far as to cover the face with a thick kind of pafte, which they wore at home 9 . Poppasa, the wife of Nero, in- vented an ointment to preferve beauty, made of affes' milk, and from her denominated Poppceanum 10 . The abominable fafhion of face-painting was not confined to women : the men put the fame in practice ; and not only daubed their 1 Plin. Nat. Hut. lib. XXXI. cap. i. 7 Ovid, Met. Tacit, Ann. »«, With cxxxvi INTRODUCTION, VJ'ith Jhoes x 9 well formed from an ox's hide,. The pile turn'd. inwards, be your feet fupply'd. Have ready next, your fhoulders to defend, Should the rough ftorm or heavy rains defcend,, A cloak of goats' Ikins, firfilings of the kind, Sew'd with ftrong tendons *, and completely join'd,. Then for thine head a filon 1 wrought with care, Both ears incloling cautioufly prepare ; For, piercing are the morning winds which blow Chill from the North, and drive the falling mow. 1 Yliit\a fa;. » U&of, a.cpp, or hat,' 1 titi/ft fas ', literally, thrnpvesdftheo CONTENTS OP THE WORK. PART IV. The Civil, Military, and Ecclefiaftical, Habits of the Anglo-Nor- mans, from the Clofe of the Twelfth to the Commencement of the Fourteenth Century. CHAP. I. The Cloathing Arts improved in England during the Thirteenth Century.— Brief Review of the Materials for Clothing known at that period,— The Skill of the Englijh Ladies in the Art of Emhoidery farther illuftrated.— General Obfervations on the Drejfes of the Normans.— The fplendid Appearance of the Anglo-Norman Monarchs and their Courtiers on folemn Occafions. — — - c " Page 125. CHAP. II. The Habits of the Men in the Thirteenth Century not much varied nor increafed. — The Tabard.— The Super-totus or Over-all.— The feveral Parts of Drefs already mentioned reconfidercd. — — — — Page 151. CHAP. CHAP. HI. The Habits of the Women ; nothing new refpeHing the Under-Tunic.-Tbe Peliffon -The Gown, the fame as the Cote and the Role. -The Cyclas.-Tbe Surcoat, and the S«- pr-Tunu.-The Bli ant. -The Mantle, and the Penula.-Tbe Wimple, and the Pe P lus - The Gorget.-The Manner of wearhg the Hair. -The Hat.-The Cretone -The Super- Caput The Blnda.-The Crown.-The Chaplet, and the Garland.-The Stockings, and the Shoes. — The Gloves. — Page 161. CHAP. IV. The Military Habits of the Thirteenth Century. -The Defection of a Knight arming him- felf.-Thefeveral Parts of the Military Habit defer Ibed.-T heir different Names and ujes explained. — Page 171. PART V. The Civil, Military, and Ecclefiaftical, Habits of the Englifh, from the ClGfe of the Fourteenth to the Commencement of the Seven- teenth Century. CHAP. I. Great Improvement made in the Clothing Arts by Edward the Thlrd.-The various AcTs of Parhament relating to the Exportation of Wool, & Cm aild Sheep alive. -Privileges of the Llothters and Weavers.-Statutes relative to the Length and Breadth of Cloth.-Ruffl Sanns and Fufilans; when firft made in England.-The Abufes praHlfed by the Im- porters of Foreign Fufians.-AcTs refraining Abufes in the Mahng, Fulling, D yin z and Fending of Woollen Cloths. -S ilk , when firfi manufaHured in England not kn J- fabricated by Women only; Its Progrefs. -Linen Cloth chlefy Imported.-Varlous Kinds of Cloths ufed tn England, and where made.-Lace and Button Makers' Arts. -The Furrier's Art, and the different Furs ufed In England.-The Shearmen's Complaints re- dreffed by Parliament. — Page 185. CHAP. II. A brief Survey of the principal Sumptuary Laws refpefting Drefs efablijhed in the Englifi, — Page 221. CHAP, CHAP. HI. Oflentation and Superfluity in Drefs condemned by the moral and religious Writers. —Satirical Reflexions and InveHives by the Poets and other Authors on the fame Subjecl.—The Ar- ticles of the Ladies' Drefs in the Thirteenth Century enumerated and con frafled with thofe of the Seventh Century.— The hafiy adoption of new Faflmns reprobated.— Apparel Jhould befuitedto the Seafon.—All Arts to change the Colour of the Hair, the wearing of falfe Hair, and quaint Attires for the Head, df approved of— The Horned Head- Drefs and the Steeple Head-Drefs fatirized Face-fainting condemned.— General Prevalence of ex- penfive Fajhions proved.— Varieties of Abfurdities in Drefs defcribed and ridiculed.— Silk Stockings, when firjl introduced.— The Clergy cenfured for their Love of Finery.— The Difappointment of John Drakes, as related by Camden. Page 233; CHAP. IV. The Drefjes of the federal Perfonages defcribed in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales briefly con- flared.— The Knight.— The Squire.— The Squire's Teoman.—The FranMeyn.—The Reve.—Tbe Merchant .—The Doclor of Phyfic.—The Serjeant at Law.— The Clerk of Oxford.— The Monk.— The Frier.— The Canon.— The Sompnour.—Tbe Pardoner.— The Miller The Shipman.—The Ploughman.— The Burghers.— The Priorefs.—The Wife of Bath.— The Carpenter's Wife.— The Clothiers Widow.— Her Wedding-Drefs .— Spinning-Maidens defcribed.— Droll Defcription of Elynour Running.— The Country Ale- wfe.— A fender Waifl Fajhionable.— Tight Lacing condemned.— Poetical Defcription of Ladies richly habited.— A brief Recital of the ancient and modern Foppifl Drefles. Page 277. CHAP. V. Drefles appropriated to particular Situations and Circumjlancss.—The Kings Liveries.— His Badges and Colours.— Noblemen and Gentlemen's Liveries.— Given to Perjons not en- titled to wear them.— The Extent of this evil hurtful to the Community.— AZs for re- fraining thefe Abufes.-Particular Colours affeHed by Peflons of high Rank worn by their Inferiors, by way of Compliment .—Heralds and Meflengers.— Their Habits.— Blue Coats, the Serving-Men's Badges.— Minftreh and Players wearing the Badges of Noble- men.— The low Eftaie of the Englijh Drama in its Infancy. — Mafquerade Habits and Mummeries.— A dreadful Accident which happened at a Marking.— Several Mafquerades and Mummeries defcribed.— The Lord of the Mifrule.—MayGames.— Habits appro- priated to Fools and Jefters. — _ Page 297. CHAP. CHAP. VI. The fame Subject continued. — Dreffes peculiar to the Citizens of London.-— Pilgrimages faJhionable.—Tbe Habits appropriated to the Pilgrims.— Sir John MandevM in his Eaftern Drefs, — Beards permitted to le worn by the Knights Templars. — The Habits of a Female Pilgrim .—Black, ufual Colour for Mourning ; not always ufed.— -Mourning Habits defribed— Ordinances for Mourning, according to the Ranks of the Mourners. — Blue the Emblm of Truth ; Green of Inconflancy.—Forcflers' and Ranger? Habits.— Habits of Dfgracel&c _ _ _ — Page 3 i 5 . CHAP. VII. A general View of the fefarate Parts of Drefs appropriated to the Men during the Englijlj JTra. The Shirt; its Names, and the Mater. als with which it was made. — Neck Rufs.— Shirt-Bands. — Cravat, and other Ornaments. — Sleeping without Shirts.— Night and Chriftening Shirts. — Breeches of Linen anciently worn. — Hofe fubjliiuted for Breeches, Stockings, and Shoes.— The Shppes of Chaucer not Breeches.— General Defer iption of the Breeches.— The Stockings.— The Shoes and the Boots.— The Garments fubfiituted for the Tunic and the Super-Tunic— The Kirtle.—The Court- Pie. —The Sequannie. -The Houppeland.—The Chopa, and the Pellard.— Jbe Doublet —The Waijicoat.—T'he j ac k et . The Paltock. — Coats of various Kinds. — Gowns offtveral Sorts. — Mantles, or Cloaks.— The Partelet.—The Placard.— The Madeline.— The Hucca.—The Houfia.— The Pilcbe, ~ ~ — Pa S e 33°- C PI A P. VIII. The Women's Drefs particularifed.— Embroidered Shifts— Ruffles.— The Partelet.-TJx Tippet.— The Ruff.— The Band.— 1 he Coat —The Petticoat —The Waijl coat.— The Kirtle.—The Super Tunic.— The Sofquenie.—The Rocket.— The Branc.—T'he Frock.— The Gown.— The Git.— The Robe.— The Sleeves. — The Corfet.—The Bodice.— The Stomacher.— The Apron.— The Mantle.— The Chopa — The Foot • Mantle. —I he Houffe. The Croeea, or Cardinal.— Stockings.— Shoes.— Boots, &c. ~ P*g e 3 66 ' A COMPLETE VIEW OF THE DRESS AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE of ENGLAND, FROM THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE SAXONS IN BRITAIN TO THE PRESENT TIME. PART IV. The Civil, Military, and Ecclefiaftical, Habits of the Anglo- Normans, from the clofe of the Twelfth to the Com- mencement of the Fourteenth Century. CHAP. I. The Clothing-Arts improved in England during the Thirteenth Century. — Brief Reviezv of the Materials for Clothing known at that Period. — T'he Skill of the Englifh Ladies in the Art of Embroidery farther illuftrated. — General Obfer- vations on the Drejfes of the Normans. — The fplendid Ap- pearance of the Anglo-Norman Monarch s and their Courtiers upon folemn Occafions* IT has been fufficiently proved, by the preceding pages, that the arts in general in this kingdom were rather improved than im- peded by the advent of the Normans, and. elpecially thofe arts that related to the fabrication of cloth. The Flemilh weavers, who ac- K k companied I2 6 THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IV. companied the Conqueror when he invaded England, and their countrymen who followed them in the fucceeding reigns, were fa- vourably received, and, under the aufpices of regal authority, were formed into guilds and fraternities, and indulged with fuch privileges and immunities as enabled them to carry on their bufineis with fuc- cefs *. The political good refulting from this proceeding was foon manifefted ; for, the improvements which were confequently made in the woollen manufactures in England enhanced their value, and they became a confiderable fource of wealth to this nation by the increafe of its commerce ; for, notwithstanding the great exertions of many formidable rivals who exercifed the clothing-arts in foreign coun- tries, the extenfive exportations from rh,s kingdom abundantly prove the fuperiority of the commodities produced from the Englifh looms. . . . There certainly was a great increafe of clothing-materials during the thirteenth century, not only by the new productions from the manufactories at home, but alfo from the importation of variety of foreign articles: I mall therefore take the liberty, before I introduce the defcription of the plates appropriated to this period, to examine as briefly as poffible the different fpecies of cloth which appear to have been then known in England. SILK, as we have feen already, formed a confiderable figure among the clothing-materials imported from abroad, efpecially pof- terior to the arrival of the Normans, under whofe influence its ufe was more univerfally diffufed throughout the kingdom than it had been during the government of the Saxon monarchs f ; but it does not appear to have been manufactured by the Enghfh fo early as the thirteenth century. The filken fluffs, like thofe cloths pro- duced from other materials, were of different kinds, and accord- ingly diftinguifhed by different appellations, fome of them derived from the country in which they were made + , and others from their colour - . . The richeft and moft precious filks were ufually at this time de- * See d 80 § As clotb °f Per f e > and cloth °f T,uJe > 4 See pp. 88 and 89. hoth of which fignify cloth of a light Hue, I As/IL, derived from the Latin ovjky colour : thefe appellations however, Saracenus, or Saracenorum opus, the work of. were not confined to fitks or cloths im- the Lacens; it is called in French Sar- ported from abroad; but they feem to raftnois; and by Chaucer fetlEnifige, have been equally applicable to any .which feems to have been a corruption fort of light blue cloth : thus Legate of the French word ; and cloth of Tars, in meaning to inform us that the ftandard Latin tdrtarinus, becaufe it was firft of St. Edmund was blue, fays, it was brought from Tartary into Europe, of COlOUlC 2>n*e. PART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 127 fined by the word olofericus, or holofericus *, that is, compofed entirely of fdk, in contradistinction, I fuppofe, to fuch ftuffs as were fabricated partly from filk, and partly from materials of an inferior quality. When the filk was interwoven with threads of gold and filver, its value of courfe was enhanced : it was alfo, as we lhall fee below, frequently enriched with embroideries of gold, and brocaded with flowers. CENDAL, or fandal, was a fpecies of rich thin filken ftuff, highly efteemed at this period, and purchafed at a great price -f*-; it was frequently ufed for the lining of ftate-garments ; and, in fome in- ftances, appears to have been fubftituted for ermine % and other precious furs. The author of the GlofTary to the Romance of the Rpfe, publifhed at Paris, informs us, that there was a fort of camlet, called cendal, manufactured at this time, which was partly compofed of lilk, and partly of other materials : this cloth, continues he, was fometimes red, and fometimes white ; but that which was made of filk alone was precifely the fame as the taffety of the prefent day ; in this inftance, however, I think he is not perfectly correct ; for, a cloth called taffata, and diftinguifhed from the cendal, will prefently come under our confideration. The cloth of TARS, an abbreviation of Tartary, called in Latin Tartarinus^, and in French Tarften, is faid by our gloffographers to have been a fpecies of filken fluff : it was occafionally enriched with gold ||. In other inftances it is faid to have been of the colour of blood, and formed the whole of the garment ^ ; and, again, it feems to have conftituted a part of it only ** : perhaps the cloth of Tars dif- fered but little from another precious kind of cloth exiftent at this period, called in Latin Tarjicus, and in French Tar/ien, which was occafionally adorned with branches and other devices interwoven with ' * Tottts ex ferico; a Graeco oXej, & Latino fericum. Du Cange, in voce Holo- fericus. f An ancient writer, cited by Du Cange, informs us, that two botes, bulkins, or, perhaps, rather ftockings du cendal de graine, were valued at . 120 efcus or v crowns, and one bote of yellow cendal at 52 crowns. In voce Cendalum. + The following quotation from the Roman d'Aubery proves, that antiently the ftandards were made of this material : L'enjeigne tinjl qui fut de cendal pur. An old author remarks, that, A. D. 1202, a charge was made of 40 Ihillings for the furura, lining or facing de cendal, to a green robe ; and for another green robe, forato de celdel, j6o Ihillings. In another place, the cendal itfelf is faid to have been of a green colour. Du Cange, ut fupra. § Species panni esc 'Tart arid advefli, vel operis Tartarisi. Du Cange, in voce Tar- tar inns. || Thus an old author, cited by Du Cange : TJnam cappam de Diafpro auri, Sa- mito vet Tartarifco aureo de Jindone fodera- tam. In voce Tartar inus. ^[ Una penida de Tartarino blodio. Dugdale, Monaft. Angl. torn. III. p. 85. ** Unum mantellum de laneo cum Tar- tarino blodio. Ibid, p. 86. threads !28 THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IV. threads of gold * ; in fome inftances it appears to have been of one colour only, which was alight blue f. . . . _ . It is impoffible to determine at what time the fluff, called Tarjicus, was firft imported into England : it certainly never became common ; but, on the contrary, it appears to have been confined to the fuperb veftments of the fuperior clergy. SATIN %, manufa&ured from filk, and VELVET which was a thicker fpecies of fluff, are both of them mentioned by the authors of the thirteenth century, and appear to have been well known in this kingdom ; but the high price they bore muft neceffarily have pre- cluded them from general ufe : eighteen florins is faid to have been given for an ecclefiaftical habit made of Perfian fatin ||. The ge- neral colour of fatin and of velvet feems to have been red ; but black fatin is once mentioned by an ancient writer SARCENET, a thin tranfparent kind of filk, was worn by the ladies of the thirteenth century. In the " Romance of the Rofe," the habit of Largeffe, or Liberality, is defcribed as a fplendid robe, newly purchafed, of purple farcenet **. . TAFFATA is frequently mentioned by the writers of this period : it appears to have been a thin kind of filken fluff, and principally ufed for the linings of rich external garments of various kinds : it was probably dyed of different colours, the better to fuit the purpofe; at leaft, we are certain from the quotations in the margin, that there were two forts of taffata, that is, white and green ff . BRANDEUM, according to the opinion of Du Cange, was a fpecies of filk : he does not, however, fpeak pofitively to the pur- * Tunica & dalmatica de quodam panno Madox, mention is made of V tftimentum Tarfici colons tegu/afa, cum Befantiis & rubeum de velvet. erboribus de aureo filo contextis— Tunica fef || Cafula de fauna terfico. Du Cange,. dalmatica de panno Indico, Tarfico, Bezan- in voce Satinus. tato, de auro. Vifitat Thefau. S. Pauli, % Bombicinium fuum quod erat defatinU Lond. an. 1295. rubeo. Sattmis nigns. Ibid + Cafula de panno Tarfico Indict colons. ** Line 1172. Ibidem r ° lje bomie et belle + Satinus— pannis fericis rafus. Du D'une coute toute r.oiivelle Cang-g D'un pourpre furraxinefche. § Called in Latin villofa, villofus. ; and Which Chaucer thus translates in French -villufe, velu, and velours, itargefife £aD on a robe treffie Thus Matthew Paris, in Vita Abbatum : flDf rrcbe purpure farl2nifi&e Quendam pannum vUhfuht qui Gallis villufe ff Unum manteUum de camoca duplici dicitur. An ancient author, cited by Du cum alba taffata - unum mantellum comitis Cano-e,' fays, unum pannum fericum qui vo- Cantice de panno blodio laneo, duplicatum cum catur\ehe\; and in the Teftament of viridi taffata. Monaft. Angl. torn. III.. John de Nevill, A. D. 1386, given by part II. p. 86. pofe,, PART ItV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. I 29 pofe, but cites two authors of antiquity to prove that it was a fort of cloth pf confiderable value *. SAMIT, or famyte -}~, was a very rich and eftimable fluff : fome- times it was compofed entirely of lilk ; but frequently it was inter- woven with threads of gold and filver ; and in general it appears to have been embroidered, or otherwife embellifhed, with gold in a very coflly manner. This material was chiefly dedicated to facred ufes, and conftituted many of the rich official habits of the clergy : it was not, however, confined to the church ; the Norman mo - narchs, the nobility, and the ladies of high rank, at this period, made ufe of it upon particular occalions, when more than ordinary difplay of pomp was required. Mirth, as we find him defcribed in the "Romance of the Rofe," was clothed in "avert of Jamil, adorned with figures of birds, and embellifhed with beaten gold { his •chaplet was alfo made of " famit ornamented with rofes Glad- nefs, chara&erifed in the fame poem, is faid to have been habited in a veil of famit covered with gold ||. The general colour of this fluff was red; but an ancient French hiftorian fpeaks of robes of black famit which belonged to St. Louis ; and, in the " Romance of Lancelot de Lac," we read of a vert and mantle of white famit The author of the " Chronicle of St. Denis" affures us, that the Orifame, or facred ftandard of the kings of France, was made of red famit ornamented with tufts of green filk **. BAUDKINS, or cloth of BAUDKINS as it is called in our ftatutes of parliament, and Baldekinus in Latin, was one of the richeft and moft precious fpecies of fluff that appeared in England at this pe- riod : it is faid to have been compofed of filk interwoven with threads of gold in a moft fumptuous manner and, according to Du * Ferens in capite matronalem mitram., § Line 844: tandcntis brandei raritate niblatam. Jo. Et famie lui fit chappeuu Biacon. Vitse S. Greg. lib. IV. cap. $3. De rofes gracieux et beau; Fanones aum parati ad offerendum 14; ex Which Chaucer (imply calls, brande.03 ; expallio 15. Hariulfus Chron. Si tofett Cfjspflet. lib. III. cap. 3. || Line 875: f Called by the Latin writers, famittum, Dun Jamy vefi bein dore ; /a»iit turn, fey ami turn, /ami /is, xamitum, and Which Chaucer calls, ..txametum ; and by the French famy, or Hit tfott ggltt fattlgt*. fa/nis; is generally defmed r by f annus ho- Robes de famit noir. Joinvil, in vita, lo/ericus, and lbmetimes put for any vet- S.Ludov. Cote and mantil cfun blanc Samis. ture of filk ; but moft frequently it ap- MS. in the Royal Library, marked 20. jpears to have been ornamented with gold. D. iv. + Line 835 : ** L'oriflambc qui efioit cfun vermiel JXun S amy pour trait a oyfeaulx famit— ret avoithouppes de foyvtrt. Sub. an. i$ui efioit tout a or batu 1328. *Tresrichment — thus rendered byChaucer: ff Pannus omnium ditifjimus, cujus fla~ £nU ttt a famette toitf) bttH t8 tWOUBjt, men ex filo auri, fubtegmen exfericis, tegitur 9 nt) tnit|> coin beten full fetouflg, plumario opere intertextus, Du Cange, in ■JfyUi *0T>E tow tl*tt Cull rif^elg. voce Baldekinus, L 1 Cange, 130 THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IV. Cange, derived its name from Baldack, the modern appellation for Babylon, where it is reported to have been firft manufactured. It was probably known upon the Continent fome time before it was brought into this kingdom ; for, Henry the Third appears to have been the firft Englifh monarch that ufed the cloth of Baudkins for his vefture *. DIAPER, or DYAPREZ as it was anciently called according to the French etymology, and diafprus in Latin, was a rich figured cloth imported from the Continent : it appears to have been com- pofed of a variety of materials, fuch as fine linen threads, threads of filk, and a mixture of lilk and gold~}\ It was, I prefume, a thick kind of fluff, and clofely manufactured : it conftituted many of the ecclefiaftical veftmentsj, and was alfo ufed by the knights and officers of the army, and worn over their coats of mail; at which time it was ufually embroidered with their armorial bearings Stockings were fometimes made with diaper, which were richly va- riegated with figures and variety of other curious ornaments ||. It is highly probable, that the fluff, called Damacius by the Latin authors, in French Damas, and with us Damajk from Damafcus the city where it was originally fabricated, differed little or nothing from the diaper juft mentioned : if that be the cafe, we may eafily conceive how highly it was eftimated in Europe, when we find, that, in the fucceeding century no lefs than four pounds three-fhillings were given for a iingle ell of white figured damaik # *. CAMOCA, or camucum, was a fpecies of rich cloth, compofedof filk or of fome other material equally valuable : it does not appear to have been much ufed in this kingdom, becaufe we have no appro- priate name in Englifh by which it may be diflinguifhed. Froiffart lpeaks of it as forming part of the French drefs in his day ; and * Dominus rex (Henry III.) vefte deau- § Thus a knight, in the MS. Romance rata, facia de preciojiffimo Baldekins. Mat- of Gay don, cited by Du Cange, is faid thew Paris, Hift. Angl. fub anno 1247, to have cote a armer d'un diafpre gaydi y page 756. The fame king, A. D. 1254, his horfe was alfo covered with d'un bon prefented to the abbey of St. Albans diafpre. duns pallas preciofas, quas baldekinos ap- \\ Sandalia cum. caligis de rubeo fameto pellamus, &c. Ibid. p» 903. diafperato hruedata cum imaginibus regum -\ Cappam de diafpero aurifamito vel in rote His Jimplicibus . Monafl. Angl. torn, tarlarifco aures de Jindone fodeiatam, Vide III. p. 314. A French poet alfo, com- du Cange in voce Diafprus. plaining of the cruelty of a lady, fays, + Dalmaticam & hoquetum de diafpre her heart ivas harder than ** lou diafpre? mbeo — capam auream vel fericam de diafpre ^[ A. D. 1472, bara?nentis, vel auri/ricis paratam & orna- ** Charpentier, in voce Damacius. *tam. Invent. Ecclef. ornament, ex Arch. ff II font «jcJIu de velour of the camel. We read of the came line d 'Amiens *j~ and the cameline de Cambray %. We may learn that camlet was a kind of cloth •efteemed by the nobility of France from the following anecdote : " Robert Sorbon, by way of reproach, told Joinville in the prefence of "St. Louis, that he was more richly habited than the king himfelf. To which he anfwered : Monheur Robert, faving the honour of his ma- jefty, and your own, I am not in the leaft to blame upon this oc- calion ; for, the drefs which I now wear, fuch as you fee it is, was not made by my own authority, but bequeathed to me by my pa- Tents. On the contrary, you are very blameable, and ought to an- swer for your temerity, who, being the fon of a man and woman of low degree, have thrown afide the habit of your family, and clothed yourfelf with finer camlet than the king himfelf appears in To this we may add, that camlet is generally enumerated with filk, latin, •^velvet, and other precious fluffs. There was a cloth in ufe at this ^period called barracanus, which Du Cange allures us was a fpecies of camlet |j. STANIUM, or STAMFORTIS, for ft amen forte, which, I iprefume, was a ftrong fort of cloth, and of a fuperior quality, we find ranked with the bruneta and the camolet A tunic made with this ftuff was jeftimated at fifteen millings **. It was occasionally red and green ; but both thofe colours were forbidden -to the clergy. CHECKERATUS, or, as Chaucer calls it, CHEKELATOUN, for I imagine they were both the fame, was a curious kind of cloth, well known in England at this period : it confifred of chequer-work curioufly wrought, and appears to have been chiefly ufed by the clergy * P annus ex camelorum piHs confcilus. -ff Joinville in vita S. Louis. •J De vejl de Gand ne de Oouay Ne de Camelin de Cambray. Vulpe coronata MS. § Joinville ut fupra. || In voce Barracanus. \ Bruneta etiam, vel nigra, vet etiam ftanio forte, vel cameloto. Stat. Ray- mundi., an. 1233. 5 *'* Pro 1 tunica de Itamforti x*v folidi,. Comput. apud D. Brulfel, torn II. f f Capa cum rWe/Zfchekereratis fubtilis operis, facia de cafuld epifcopi Eulconis. Vint. S. Pauli, Lond. an. 1295. Chau- cer fays of Thopa?, robe toaa of c&e&efatoun 3T$at csft manraian*. MAR- FART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 133 _ MARBRINUS, or MARBRE * as it is called in French, was a fpecies of cloth, compofed of party-coloured worfted, interwoven in fuch manner as to refemble the veins of marble -j- whence it received its appellation ; but how far it was allied to the preceding article, which was alfo a cloth diverlified with various colours, I cannot pre- tend to determine. Like the checkeratus, it feems to have been chiefly applied to the tunics and furcoats ; but the marbrinus was alfo common to both fexes. At the end of the prefent century thir- teen ells of marble-patterned cloth was fold for fifty-eight mil- lings and lixpence ; which was the proper quantity to make four tu- nics for as many pages J. The feveral colours appropriated to this variegated cloth are enumerated by an ancient writer ; but, as moft of them are unknown to me, I fhall refer the Reader to the margin, where he will find them as they ftand in the original §. The marble cloth was thick in its fubflance, and fometimes adorned with figures of animals, and other reprefentations, exclulive of the variegated work to which it owed its appellation ||. LAKE. This was the name appropriated to a find kind of linen, or, perhaps^ rather lawn : it appears to have been well known in England in the days of Chaucer ^j. The foreign authors of this pe- riod mention cimetum # * and baldinella'\\ i both of which the lexi- cographers agree were fine thin kinds of linen ; but it is by no means clear, that they were ufed in this country. The word cam- brek f or ca?nbreki, occurs in the Romance of Launcelot of the Lake as part of a lady's drefs, and probably was the fame with the mo- dern cambric. GAZZATUM a fine fpecies of filk or linen fluff of the gauze kind, which is thought to have received its name from the city of Gaza in Paleftine, where it was manufactured, is alfo fpoken of by the Latin authors % %. It is, indeed, very uncertain, whether either * It was alfo called marbretus and fp\Sf°i cum rotis et grifonibus. Vlfit. The- tnebretas by the Latin writers, and mau- fauri S. Pauli,. Lond. A. D. 1295. ire in French. 5[ Speaking of St. Thopas, he fays : f Pannus ex filis dwerji et varii colon's fyt llftl on nt$t |)i3 tD^lte tite textus; or draps tixus de diverje laines %l clotjj Ofla&C full fine atttl tlete. comme marbrez. Ordinat. Reg. Franc. ** Patmis de bijjo Jeu ciaieto viridi. torn. III. p. 414. Du Cange. % Vadia Hofpit. Rob. Comit. Clarim. f f Sindonis fubtllioris fpecies, a loco unde fub an. 1295. ad-vehitur nomen habeas. Ibid, in voce § Marbre verdelet, marbre vermeillet^ Baldinella. , marbre broufequin, marbre caigntz, marbre + + Brunetam nigram, gazzatum, Iff ahum acole, marbre de graine, marbre dojien. quemcumque pannum notabihtcr delicafum, Mem. Comput. Steph. de Font. an. 135 1, interdicimus univerfu. Concil. Budeu. cited by Charpentier. an. 1279, cap. 61. || Tunica de quod am panno marmoreo, Mm of ■ THE HABITS OF THE ANG10-NGRMANS. PART IV. of them were ufed in England during this century : the latter, how- ever, together with other cloths remarkable -for their delicacy, was ftricMy forbidden to be worn by the monaftic clergy. G ALABRUN US, and ISENBRUNUS, or, as it is called in French, makbruns and valenbruns, was a fort of fine cloth, held in high eftimation upon the Continent at this period. Jean de Meun the continuator of the " Romance of the 'Rofe" places it in the catalogue of precious ftufTs fought after by the ladies *. The copes of the dignified clergy were fometimes made with this cloth -f-, which was interdicted to the monks on account of the finenefs of its texture Its colour, which is fometimes mentioned, is generally faid to have been black BOMBAX, and BOMBIX, or, in modern language, bombajin, a fort of fine iilk or cotton cloth, was well known upon the Continent during the thirteenth century ; but, whether it was ufed fo early in this kingdom, I cannot take upon me to determine ||. BRUNETA, and BURNET A, or, as it is called in French, hrunette, was a fine fort of cloth. Its name does not appear by any means to have been derived from its colour, which was exceedingly dark, and, indeed, frequently quite black. The bruneta was much valued by perfons of quality of both fexes ; and it is often metaphorically placed in oppolition by the poets of the time to cloths of the coarfeft nature ; but the ftrongeft proof of its beauty and delicacy is its being ranked with other precious ftufTs, and for that reafon prohibited to be ufed by the monaftic devotees The mcretits, a fpecies alfo of fine cloth, was, probably, very nearly allied to the bruneta : they are frequently clafTed together ; and the moretus was equally forbidden to the inferior clergy. * Commclin ft et rcbbe de foye, Cendaulx, Mallequins, Mallebruns, hides, vet maulx , jaunes,*t brans. Roman de Rofe, line 21,864 ; et infra. ■\ Noire chapes d'ifambinn. Guiot. de Provins, MS. cited by Du Cange. % Nullus fratrum r.ojirorum pemnis qui di- cuniur galabruni vel ifembruni veftiatur. Statut. Petri venerab. cap. 16. Ponamns celicatas -vejiesjts 'nullus deinceps\{* THE AN^LO-NOStMANS. i35 BOQUERANNUS, in Fxench bougran, and in our own language buckram, was a fine thin cloth *, fo highly efteemed at this period, that it is ranked with the richer! filks ^. It was in fome inftances or- namented with borders of cendal ; and frequently ufed inftead of the ikins of animals for the facings of garments made with other materials J. The veftments of the clergy, the inner tunics of the military offi- cers, and many parts of drefs appropriated to the females of the thirteenth century, were occaftonally made of buckram. An ancient author fpeaks of certain ladies habited in vefts of buckram, bound be- neath their girdles., abounding with folds, and fewed together with fumptuous workmanfhip ; to which he afterwards adds, they wore tunics made in a wonderful manner with buckram TIREXANUS, and TIRITANIUS, or, as it is written in French, tyrttaine, was a fort of fine woollen cloth, manufactured upon the Continent ||. John de Meun, an author of this century, cited above, fpeaking of the womens' robes, informs us, that they were made with iine filken Huffs, and of fcarlet woollen cloth of tiretaine ^f. An ancient' author, mentioned by Du Cange, proves, I conceive be- yond a doubt, that the fame workmen who made the tyretaine ma- nufactured the SARGE ## : the latter, indeed, was chiefly ufed for curtains, and hangings, and other domeftic ufes, which may lead us to conclude, that it was of a coarfer quality than the former. We read,, however, of painted fargss-f-f-, which, perhaps, mould be rendered forges adorned with needle-zuork after the manner of tapeitry : thin cloth was not confined to one colour; red and black are fpecilied in the margin ; the latter we find was manufactured at Caen. in Normandy SAGtUM, or fate as it is written in French, and fiye in our own language, was a valuable kind of cloth, and, though it did not rank with the moil precious articles applied to drefs, was frill efteemed for its delicacy As early as the reign of William Rufus, a pair of * Tela fubtilis /pedes. Du Cange. f Tyres & pailes bouquerans & eendez. Roman de Jordain MS. Item une bougheran blanc borde de noir cendal. In- vent. Eccl. Camarac. an. £371, MS. \ Un bougheran blanc 'borde noir cendal. Invent. Eccl. Camarac. § Alia mulieres boqueranno ftriclo fub cingulo multis plicis fumptuojis opemto -isf infuto vejihmmr. Vincen. isflvac. Spec. Hill, lib. XXX. cap. 85. Tmhicas mho modo formulas portant de buccarano. Ibid, lib. XXXII. cap. 4. || Fannus land fi'oyie textus . Du Cange, in voce tire tonus. ^[ Robbes faittcs par grans devifes, De beaulx draps, de Joye, et de layne De fcarlate de tiretaine, Sbc, Roman de la Role, line 21,856, et infra. « *►* Twites Its foiz que aucun tiretanier venra en la ditc ville pour J'uvrer du mejlier de tiretaines & de fai-ges U doit prendre congie de nous. Conflict. Genovcf. MS. cited by Dti Cangv. -|-|- Una;;: fargani piclam. Invent, an. Ibid. tit Unius farg.-e I ana rubei colorii— Sarges noires de Caen. Ibid. §§ Quo him delicato panno, qui vul«b faie vocatur. Hugo de S. Yi&ore de C'aaftro Ammoe., lib. II. ftockino-5 o G THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PAUT IT* ftockings made with faye were eftimated at three millings, which that luxurious monarch thought too common for his wearing, and infilled upon being provided with others of a higher price *. BIFF A was a fort of cloth ufed in France at this period : we find that it was purchafed for the veftments of the ladies who waited upon the queen ; and although we are not, indeed, acquainted with its qualities, nor even with the materials from which it was fabri- cated, it appears, from the note in the margin, to have been a valuable article of drefs "f-. SCALFARIUS, and FRISIUS, or frieze, though both of them cloths of an inferior quality when compared with thofe mentioned in the preceding articles, were not, apparently, of the coarfeft kind, but well calculated, at leaf!:, for warmth and comfort; for which reafon they were thought to be ill fuited to the profeffors felf-denial ; and we find, that the black monks were prohibited from making their garments with either the fcalfarius or the frieze, excepting fuch of the fraternity as relided in England, or near to it, where the coldnefs of the climate rendered the indulgence ne- cefYary J. FUSTANUM, or fujiian, a fpecies of cotton cloth well known at this period, was much ufed by the clergy, and efpecially appro- priated to that part of their habit called the cafula or chefible^* In- deed, the Ciftercian monks were forbidden to wear any other chejibles than fuch as were made of linen or of fuftian ||. CHANABACIUS, or canvas, was ufed at this period ; though, I prefume, but partially, becaufe it is fo feldom mentioned ; and even then it feems to have formed an external part of the drefs only ^f. CHESSEFAS was a kind -of cloth which feems chiefly to have been appropriated to the ufe of fuch perfons as relided in the country; and for that reafon it is fometimes called chejfefas de cambio**. It was known upon the continent at this time; but the materials with which it was compofed, and the nature of its texture, are equally uncertain. * Seepage 104. f Pro biffis, emptis per Odonem de Cormallio ad veftiendas fceminas reginae, xxiii. lib. iv. fol. viii. den. Comput. an. 1239- ^ was ran Hed among the larger cloths with refpeft to the duty •paid for it by the clothiers. De cafcun gran drap quil (les drapiers) feiont trois deniers; de une bifc trois den. d'un petet drap dtufe den. Lit. pat. A. D. 1293, spud Marten, torn. I. col. 1259. + Statutum ejl } ut nullus fratrum nojirilm pannis, qui vocantur fcalfarii, vel frifii, vef/iantur, exceptis Anglis & Anglic affi' nibus. Statut. Petri venerab. pro Clunia- cenlibus, cap. 16. § Cafula de fuftia, cujus totus apparatus de fuftian — cafula de fuftian. Vifit. The- fau. S. Pauli, Lond. an 1295. || Neque cafulasnifi de fuftaneo vel lino* Monaft. Angl. torn. I. p. 700. ^[ Unum bliaudum de channabacis. Chart. Carnal. Monaft. ** Du Cange, in voce cheffefas. RUS- £ ART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. J 37 RUSSETUM, or, in modern language, rujfet, was a coarfe fort of cloth held in no great eftimation by the wealthy. It feems, indeed, to have been confined to certain religious orders # , and to the loweft dalles of the people. The clothiers, under a ftatute enacted by king John, were commanded to make all their dyed clothes, and efpecially rmTet, of one breadth, namely, two ells within the lifts. Tiie colour of the ruffet was generally grey \. B1RRUS, and BURELLUS, or, as it is called in French, #*- reau, was one of the coarfeft fpecies of woollen cloth in ufe upon the Continent : it was thick and rough, and appropriated chiefly to the poorer fort of country people : it anfwered their purpofe,. not only on account of its cheapnefs, but alfo for its warmth, and the de- fence it afforded againft the inclemency of winter ; therefore a mantle of thick bureau, lined with lambs' lldn, is faid, in the " Romance of the Rofe/' to be an excellent protection in ftorms.of wind and lain, and in tempeftuous weather J. Red or grey are colours ap- propriated to this cloth ; but I do not pretend to affert that it was confined to thefe two. The rujfet and the bureau are fometimes ranked together ||, and probably they refembled each other in their texture : the fame parity of reafoning will hold good with refpect to another coarfe cloth, called cor de turn ; which, if not the fame as the bureau, at leaft is clafled with it ^f. BROELLA, a fort of cloth not frequently mentioned, appears to have been of an inferior kind, and chiefly ufed by the monadic clergy for their frocks, their hoods, and, perhaps, for other parts of their habits **. SilRCIATUS, or farcUis, a coarfe woollen cloth, was appropriated principally to the habits of the loweft clafTes of perfons, and to fuch of them efpecially as fubfifted upon charity * Henry de Knyghton, fpeaking of the Lolards, fays : prima introduttione hujus Settee nefandte vejlibus de ruffeto utebantur. f Du Cange defines the word rutfe- tuni — pannus vilior rufei "vel rufei coloris. | Auji ires bein fe dieu me garde Me garantit et corps & ttfle Par vent, par piuye & par tempefe Fourre d'aigneaulx fur gros bureaux. Roman de la Rofe., line 9495 j et infra. In the will of St. Louis is the follow- ing article : Item, hgamus C libras ad bureJlos emenJos pro pauper i bus vtflieqdis. N See the GlofTary to the " Romance of the Rofe." § Rouge, ou gr'tfatre. Ibid. || Roulfeti, feu burelli. Du Cange, in voce Burellus. ^[ Tunicam de panno groffo, vocato bu- rello, fen cordeto. Ibid. *-* Frocos & cuculos de broella. Arreft. , Pari. Paris, an. 1377. f f Petrus Franco det duobus pauper 1 bus tunicas fngulis annis—-^ utraque tunica ft de duobus alms de farzil qu/tinue ou pttit f. Columbine. Tair. % Qrands.et fetits carre***, \lP<*»s fun habit, PonticL PAKT IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. I39 Pontic moufe *, and derived its name from varius; and that this ap- pellation, in Latin, was given to it on account of the variety of its co- lours, its back being brown, and its belly white -f\ The word mi 1 niver occurs with us in wills and other writings of antiquity, which is menue vair in French, and in Latin minutus varius, or leiler vair ; and was fo called in oppolition, " I fuppofe," fays a modern author, ii to the furs of larger animals^. Some contend that the vair was only a fecondary fpecies of fur, and afTert that the ermine was the firft in value ; and other modern authors again confound the two to- gether which is certainly not correct, becaufe we rind them often particularly diftinguifhed from each other by the ancient writers. In fact, I do believe that the words vair, or varius, were often applied to any of the finer kinds of furs, when their colours were dive'rlified and oppofed to each other upon the fame garment. We learn, how- ever, from an ancient record ||, cited by Du Cange, that the vair was worth twice as much as the fur of cats or of rabbits, and four times as much as that of a lamb ^f. A valuable fpecies of fur, called cicimus, is mentioned by one of our own hiftorians * # : the fame fur is denominated Jifmujilis by a foreign author ; and, in the " Romance of Launcelot de Lac," it appears that a fcarlet mantle, lined with chifamus, formed part of the drefs of a young lady of quality JJ. The Ikin of an animal called dojfus, which, according to Du Cange, was well known in France by the appellation of petit gris, was ufed at this period as a fur for the linings and facings of the hoods and mantles * Pellts muris Pontic!. ■f- On lappelle vair a variis colorilus j hence veergares,, or vairs gris, pelles •va- riorum, for vairorum & pelles varite. % Mr. Gough, in his Sepulchral Mo- numents, vol. I. page 190 of the Intro- duction. § Author of theGloffary to the " Ro- mance of the Rofe," cited above ; fee Du Cange, in voce Ermina. || Dated 1036. Tema agnina, vel pellicia, iv den.\ grifia^ vel varia, iv den. ; de cattes, vel coninis, ii den. Privileg. Leduini. Ab. S. Vedafti. ** Vejtes preciojiffimas, quas robas f fcu&eo, ftor£e0, an& of ftrngee. are PART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 141 are the aurifrigia, called in French prfrais, and by our own authors or/reys # . In variety of inftances, the aurifrigia were certainly fringes m laces interwoven with threads of gold and lilver, without the affiftance of the needle, and totally independent of the garments they were intended to adorn : this kind of manufacture ieems to have been analogous to the Phrygian worker-, which is frequently mentioned by the ancient hiftorians. On the other hand, the Cyprian work, equally as well known at this period, appears to have been more cloiely -allied to embroidery , which is properly denominated the work of the needle \. It is abundantly evident, that the or/reys were not confined merely to laces, fringes and other appendages to the garments; they in- cluded alfo the ornamental work of the needle upon the garments them- felves, and of courfe formed a part of the elegant productions for whiGh the ladies of this country are fo juftly celebrated §. I can- not, indeed, help thinking that thefe fuperb embellifhments ought to be confidered in a ftill greater latitude ; for, in many cafes, they feem clearly to have been the production of the worker in metal; and then they may properly be called the goldfmitb's zvork* The art of embroidery in England fufFered no diminution from the Conqueft, but, on the contrary, was confiderably improved ; and works of this kind were not only taken up by perfons of rank for their amufement, but followed by others of inferior fituations for the fake of profit ; which brings to my mind a curious anecdote, related by an ancient monkifh writer of this country || : " There was," fays he, •■* a venerable matron, named Matilda, who was fkilful in the art of embroidery , and ufed to adorn the garments of the king and of the nobility with gold and gems, which me divernfied with flowers and other devices in a curious manner**. This good lady, having * Called alfo aurifrafium, aurifrifca, gauze or lawn. Hence Milton's "fide aurifrijium, aurifres, and^ or/reys, by the of Cyprus laivn," II Penferofo. Cyprus is ancient writers. Aurifrigia is thus de- alfo applied to crape ; and then it was t fined by Dq Cange : Limbus acupitfus, black, and ufed for -widows' iveeds like auro plerumque argentove diftivclus, qui ad our modern gaufe trimmings 1 and fome- vefles facras ajfuitur ; but certainly thefe times cyprus fignifies a Jbroud. Intro- borders, or fringes of gold and Jifoer, were duetion to Mr. Gough's Funeral Monu- by no means confined to the clerical ha- ments, vol. I. p. 1S8. bits. § See the third note of the preceding -f- Opus Phrygium, fo called becaufe it. page, wasfirft manufactured in Phrygia, isfaid || Ailredus, abbas Rievallis, de vita & to have been auratis fi'ds intextum. Du miraculis Edwardi ConfelToris, apud Gange, in voce Aurifrigia. Twyfden, p. 409. This author wrote % Opus Cyprenfe garters were em- in the time of king Stephen, broidered with filk and Cyprian gold. Cy- ^ Purpurandt artes. prus was a thin tranfparent texture like ** Opere polymito. O o in 142 THE HABITS OF THE AN G LO-N OHM ANS. PART IV. in hand a work of great confequence for the countefs of Gloucefter, and being under an engagement to fmifri the fame at an appointed time, it happened unfortunately, that the folemnity of Edward the Martyr intervened. The fair artift, fearful on the one hand to offend the noble lady if fhe neglected to fulfil her promife, and, on the other hand, to incur the difplealure of the faint, if fhe prefumed to work upon the day fet apart for the commemoration of his death, was uncertain which way fhe fhould proceed. Her fervant, per- ceiving the difficulty fhe laboured under, endeavoured to perfuade her, that it would be more profitable for her to neglect the feftival of the faint, and to oblige the countefs : but, for her temerity in endea- vouring to diffuade her miftrefs from the performance of this reli- gious duty, fhe was fuddenly punifhed with a paralytic ftroke ; and the difeafe admitted of no cure until fhe was carried to the tomb of Edward the ConfefTor, in the abbey-church of Weftminfter *, who was nephew to the holy Martyr ; where fhe humbly confeffed her fault, and was reftored to her former health ; and the countefs of Gloucefter, no doubt, fubmitted quietly to the difappointment fhe met with for the miracle's fake." Chriftiana, priorefs of Markgate, is another artift, recorded for Tier fkill in needle-work and embroidery. Matthew Paris informs us, that, when Robert, abbot of Saint Albans, vifited his coun- tryman pope Adrian the fourth, he prefented to him, among other valuable things, three mitres, and a pair of fandals worked in a won- derful manner by the hand of that lady -f-. His holinefs refufed the other prefents ; but thankfully received the mitres and the fandals. The richly embroidered garments of the Englifh clergy excited the admiration of a fucceeding pontiff J, who enquired where they were made ; and, being anfwered in England, he exclaimed, " O Eng- land, thou garden of delights, thou art truly an inexhauftible foun- tain of riches ! from thy abundance much may be exacted !" and immediately difpatched his bulls to feveral of the Englifh clergy, en- joining them to procure a certain quantity of fuch embroidered veft- ments, and fend them ,to Rome for his ufe §. Indeed, the facerdotal habits, embellifhed by the Englifh artifts, appear to have juftly deferved the encomiums beftowed upon them. * The maid and her miftrefs, I pre- % Innocent IV. fume, refided both at Weftminfter. . § Ad planet as & capas fuas c hor airs ador- ■\ Mitras etiam tres, & fandalia opens nandas. Mat. Paris., Hift. Angl. fub anno mirifici, qua domina Chriftiana, prioriffa 1246, page 705. de Markgate, diligentiffiml fecerat* Mat. Paris, in Vita Abbatfirn, p. 71. If PART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 143 If they correfpond with the defcriptions given of them by the co- temporary writers, fome of them were nearly covered with gold and precious ftones, and others were beautifully decorated with figures of men, of beafts, of birds, and of flowers *. The art of embroidery, pofterior to the Conqueft, was not confined folely to the decorative parts of drefs : it was taken up upon a broader balls : and fuits of tapeftry were produced from the needle, which ex- hibited not only the limple parts of Nature hngly, but extended to fuch a combination of thofe parts as was necelfary to produce hiftorical fubjecls, or rather a fucceffion of different reprefentatiorts of the fame hiftory. The tapeftry at Bayeux, in Normandy, which is preferved to this day in the cathedral-church of that city, is a curious and a va- luable proof of the truth of this affertion. I fhall give the defcription of this precious relique of antiquity, in the words of a modern au- thor who fpeaks from his own obfervation : " I had," fays he, " the fatisfaction of feeing that famous piece of furniture, which with great exact.nefs, though in barbarous needle-work, reprefents the hiftory of Harold, king of England J, and of William, duke of Normandy, from the embafly of the former to duke William, at the command of Edward the Confeflbr, to his overthrow and death at the battle fought near Haftings. The ground of this piece of work is a white linen cloth, or canvas, one foot eleven inches in depth, and two hundred and twelve feet in length. The figures of men, horfes, &c. are in their proper colours, worked in the manner of the fam- plers in worfted, and of a ftyle not unlike what we fee upon the China and Japan ware ; thofe of the men particularly, being without the leaft fymmetry or proportion. There is a fmall border, which runs at the top and at the bottom of the tapeftry, with feveral figures of men, beafts, flowers, and even fables, which have nothing to do with the hiftory, but are only ornaments. At the end of every particular fcene there is a tree by way of diftinctlon ; and over many of the principal figures there are infcriptions, but many of them obliterated. It is annually hung up on St. John's day, and goes round the nave of the church, where it continues eight days; and, at all other times, it is carefully kept, locked up in a ftrong wainfcote prefs, in a chapel on the South tide of the cathedral dedi- cated to Thomas Becket. By tradition, it is called duke Williams toilette, and faid to be the work of Matilda his queen and the ladies of her court, after he had obtained the crown of England." * Mat. Paris, in Vit& Abbatum j & f Anglo-Norman Antiquities,, by Dr. Hill. Csenobii Burg. pp. 100, 101. Ducarel, p. 79 ; and Appendix, p. 2. X Harold the Second. Thus 244 THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART If, Thus far my author ; who candidly confeffes, that the attribution- ©f this work to the queen of the Conqueror depends entirely upon tradition; I fhall therefore, with lefs helitation, offer the fol- lowing remarks upon the fubjeet : fo far as one may judge from the habits and general coftume exhibited in this celebrated vefbige of antiquity, it appears to have been the production of an artiffc more modern than the fair Matilda. I fhould place it half a cen- tury, at leart, pofterior to the event it is defigned to commemorate ; and. I am confirmed, in this opinion by the examination of the paint- ings contained in feveral manufcripts which appear to be nearly coeval with the Conqueft, and from comparing them with others that are decidedly of the twelfth century ; I have constantly found the latter more agreeable to the reprefentations upon the tapeftry than the former ; but one manufcript in particular -I wifh to diftinguifh upon this occafion, from which this work has received the embellimment of feveral interesting figures * ; the paintings, therein contained, ef- pecially thofe that reprefent the military habiliments of the twelfth century, correfpond fo exactly with the ftyle of drawing and form of the armour, as we find it difplayed by the needle-work, that one would naturally conclude the one had been copied from the other,, or that both of them had been deligned by the fame artift-f-. If tradition has antedated the execution of this celebrated tapeftry, per- haps the error arofe from its having been manufactured in England,, and by an artift whofe name might correfpond with that of the Con- queror's confort. Tapeftries of the fame kind were certainly ufed at this period in England ; for Matthew Paris informs us, that Richard^ abbot of St. Alban's decorated the altar of his church with an hanging of tapeftry, which contained the reprefentations of the Suf- ferings of St. Alban * The MS. here alluded to is an an- from two delineations contained in the cient Miflal of the twelfth century, in fame MS. the polfeffion of Francis Douce, Efq. t See the middle figure, plate XLIIL It is enriched with feveral rude but cu- | He was abbot from 1088 to 11 19. rious paintings adorned with ornament^ § Et dofale unum, five tapefium, in qrts al borders ; one of which is given as a pa-jh Sanlii Albani figuratur. Vita Ab- fpecimen, plate XL : the figures are taken bat. S. Albani, p. 55. Some PART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. Some curfory remarks have already occurred refpecting the pro- greffive alterations that took place in the drefTes of the Engliih. fubfequent to the Norman Conquer): * : in the prefent chapter, a few general obfervations may properly enough be added previoufly, to the entering upon a more minute investigation of the various com- ponent parts of thofe dreflfes, feparately confidered. The fumptuary laws, affifted by the example of Henry the Firft, produced a temporary reform in feveral fafliionable abfurdities that had been prevalent in England during the life-time of his brother Rufus *j\ I have faid a temporary reform, becaufe the tenor of an- cient hiftory fufficiently proves, that a variety of exuberances of fancy relative to drefs, equally condemnable with thofe that preceded them, if not, in many inftances, the fame revived again, took place before the death of the royal reformift. Whether this relapfe origi- nated from a repeal of the laws juft now alluded to, or from a want of their being enforced with fufficient rigour, I fhall not prefume to determine ; but the laft proportion, joined with a relaxation of ex- ample at the court, appears to me to have been the efficient caufe. Stephen fucceeded the elder Henry in the throne of England ; and, as his title to the crown was not perfectly confident with the eftablifhed laws of the country, he is faid to have endeavoured, upon a political principle, to recommend himfelf to the favour of the no- bility, and the people at large, by the indulgence of pomp and good living. " Soon after his coronation," fays an ancient hiftorian J, 66 he celebrated the feftival of Eafter at London ; and his court was crowded with multitudes of the nobility, where there was difplayed fuch brilliancy of gold, of lilver, and of gems, with fuch variety of veftments, and fuch fumptuous feafting§, as far exceeded the fplendor of any folemnity that had been previoufly feen in this king- dom." The love of finery, under the aufpices of fuch a monarch,, would probably have increafed to a great extent, had not the troubles, which clouded the major part of his reign, reftrained its growth. It blofTomed again, however, towards the conclusion of his govern- ment ; and his fucceflbr, Henry the Second, feems to have adopted the fame fyftem ; which fyftem, being countenanced by Becket, the favourite faint of the preceding Monkifh writers, probably fecured this prince from the feverity of cenfure, which had been fo bountifully bellowed upon his predeceffors. * See page 87, et infra. % Annales Roger! de Hoveden, pars f See page 121. prior, fol. 276. fub anno iij6". § Dapjilitate. Ibid, In 146 THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IT* In the dawn of his greatnefs, Becket manifefted his predilection for pomp and ceremony ; and the royal favour afforded him ample means for the indulgence of his inclination. When he was chancellor of England, he was appointed by the king ambaflador to the court of France, to fettle the preliminaries refpecting the marriage of prince Henry and the daughter of the French king; and this he thought a proper time to manifeft to the people of both nations, that he was, at leaft, the fecond man in his own country. Fitz Stephen, his chaplain and hiftorian, and who was probably an eye-witnefs to the facts he relates, endeavours to excufe the oftentatious pride of his patron, difplayed upon this occafion, by faying, that his view, in ex- hibiting to a foreign court the opulence, or rather luxury, of the Englifh nation, was in order to excite the admiration of the people, that due honour might be done to the king his mafter through him, and to himfelf, from the fplendor of his appearance *. The hiftorian then proceeds to recite the manner in which the haughty prelate tra- velled, and the nature of his equipage ; and from his description I fhall fele& the following extra&s, which feem to be pertinent to the prefent purpofe : He had two hundred horfemen in his train, confifting of clergymen, with knights, efquires, and the fons of noblemen, attending upon him in a military capacity, and feryants of feveral de- grees. They were all equipped with arms, and clothed with new and elegant garments, every one according to his rank. He had with him twenty-four changes of apparel, intended, I prefume, for prefents to the French officers of ftate. The hiftorian then adds, that no kind of elegance was fpared upon this occafion, fuch as furs of the moft precious kinds, with palls and fuits of tapeftry, to adorn the ftate-bed and bed-chamber ; and alfo that he took with him dogs and birds of every fpecies, that were proper for the fports of monarchs, or ufed by the wealthy. This little army was followed by eight carriages conftrufted for fwiftnefs; and every one of thefe carriages was drawn by five large and beautiful horfes ; to every horfe was appointed a ftrone young man, clad in a new tunic, which was girded about his- loins ; and every carriage was followed by a poft-horfe with a guard : in thefe conveyances, the plate, the jewels, the facred veflels, the or- naments for the altar, and all the furniture belonging to the chan- cellor and his company, were depofited. * Parat oficndcre & efundere luxfa mffi, & mijfi fua infe. W. Stephanide, Anghcani opuknUam, ut apud omnes & in vita S. Thorn* Cantuarieniis. is omnibus bonontur per/ona miUsntis a* S PART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 147 The coronation-drefs of Richard the Firft is particularly defcribed by feveral of our antient hiftorians * ; and, probably, becaufe it was uncommonly fplendid : it appears, indeed, that the whole ceremony of his inauguration was conducted with more pomp and magnificence than had been difplayed upon the fame occalion in the preceding ages. The bifhops, the abbots, and many of the fuperior clergy, were clothed in copes of filk : they were preceded by the inferior clergy habited in white. The king, having previoufly taken the co- ronation-oath, was diverted of all his garments, excepting his Jhtrt, which was open upon the fhoulders, and his drawers % : thefe, I prefume, were fitted to the legs, and anfwered the purpofe of ftock- mgs ; for, ftockings, which certainly formed a very material article of drefs at that period, are not. mentioned ; but immediately after- wards it is faid, that fandals, ornamented with gold, were put upon his feet § ; and the archbifhop of Canterbury gave him the fceptre into his right hand, and the regal ftafF|| into his left, and then anointed him in three feveral places ; a confecrated linen veil was then placed upon his head ; and over the veil a cap, ox hat**: he was then clothed with the royal veftments, namely, the tunic, and the dalmatic, or fuper-tunic ; the archbifhop then gave him the fword, and two noblemen applied the fpurs of gold to his feet; and, being in veiled with a mantle, he was led to the altar, where he promifed to keep inviolable the oath he had taken. The crown was then taken from the altar and given to the arch - bifhop, who placed it upon the head of the king ; and, fo crowned, he was conducted to his throne. After the ceremonies and procef- lion * Annal. Rog. de Hoveden, fol. 374. See alfo John Bromton, Henry Hun- tingdon, Matthew Paris, &c. fub an. ll 99- -[ Capis fencis. % Camifid et braccis. Hoveden. — Brom- ton calls the drawers brattis. § Deinde calciaverunt eum fandaliis auro c&itextis. Hoveden, &c. ut iupra. W-V'irgam regalem. I have a tranfcript before me, communicated by Thomas Attle, Efq. from an ancient roll, dated cf Johannis, and intituled, " Dejocalibus reciplendis" in which particular mention is made of the great fceptre (magnum fceptrum) ufed at his coronation, and the regal ftaff or rod of gold (virgam auream) , iurmounted with a dove; which was probably the cafe in the prefent inftance. (See plate XXVIII.) •[[ Confecralum pannum lineum. Hove- den, &c. ibid. *■* Pileum, ibid. This paffage proves that the coronation-crown differed from the crown ufually worn by the Anglo- Norman monarchs at this period ; and in the document, juft mentioned in a pre- ceding note, I find the following entry : ma°nam coronam quce venit de Almatiid. " This great crown," fays Mr. Aftle, " was probably that which the emperor " Henry VI. fent to him that is, to king John. See Hoveden, fol. 541. tt In an inventory taken of the re- galia, dated 56 Henry HI, mention is made of a large and precious crown, to whichs 148 THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IV. fion were concluded, the king laid afide the regal veftments and the crown, and clothed himfelf with lighter garments, and affumed a crown of lefs weight ; and, fo decorated, came forth to dinner. The love of fplendor feems, indeed, to have been a prevalent paffion in the mind of Richard the Firft ; and the magnificence, witli which he appeared in his journey to the Holy Land, is fpoken of by the ancient hiftorians in fuch terms as feem to border upon romance : it excited the admiration of the foreign powers, and the envy of the French king, whofe glories were eclipfed by the fuperior pomp and valour of the Englifh monarch *. In the bufy reign of John, the prevalent luxuries relative to drefs were probably abridged ; at leaft, they do not appear to have excited the feverity of hiftorical cenfure at that period. We learn from an original document, preferved at the Record Office in the Tower of London, that the fum of feventy-four pounds, nineteen millings, and nine pence, was ordered to be paid, by the king's treafurer, for the purchafe of coronation-robes for the ufe of the fovereign and his confort Ifabel, when fhe was crowned queen, and the king inaugurated the fecond time ~f\ In the reign of Henry the Third every fpecies of often tatious pa- rade was revived with additional vigour ; and the hiftory of Matthew Paris, the monk of St. Albans, who lived at that time, abounds with defcriptions of fplendid entertainments and exceffes of perfonal adornments exhibited upon thofe occalions, to which it feems he was fometimes an eye-withefs ; and his reflections upon thefe fafhion- able vices, as they were called, are replete with feverity. When Ifabel, the fifter of Henry the Third, was affianced to the emperor Frederic, lhe was conducted to Sandwich by her brother with three thoufand horfemen in his train, and was " furnifhed with all worldly abundance." She had with her, according to the hifto- rian, a crown of mofh curious workmanfhip, made on purpofe for her, of pure gold, and enriched with precious ftones ; to which were added rings and bracelets of gold, with jewels, cafkets, and orna- ments of every kind appertaining to women, not only in great abun- dance, but even in fuperfluous quantities J. The which no price was affixed ; and of three f Ixxiiii lib. xix ftl. ix den. quod other crowns of gold, valued at three pofuit in robis emendis ad fecundam corona- hundred and fixty-eight pounds, thirteen tionem noflram ct ad coronationem regime shillings, and four pence. Rymeri Fee- nojlrce. Ex Rotulo Libertat. 2 Johan. dera, vol. L p. 878. A. D. 1201. Memb. 3. * A fplendid mantle, belonging to \ Fabricata eft corona opere fubtilijjimo ex this king, is mentioned in page 98. aut o obrizo primo W putijftmo, cum gemmis- precio- PAKT IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 149 The following year, when the king efpoufed Eleanor, daugh- ter of Raymond earl of Provence, the citizens of London met him and his confort on their way, and conducted them with great pomp through the city, which was ornamented upon that occafion with banners of lilk, garlands, palls, and tapeftry. Such of the citizens as claimed, by ancient right, an office at the coronation, pro- ceeded with the king to Weftminfter, habited in veftments of filk, with gowns called cyclades interwoven with gold % When the fame monarch conferred the honour of knighthood upon William of Valence, " he was," fays the hiftorian, <£ fumptuoufly arrayed in a gilded -veftment of baudekins of the 1110ft precious kind^; he wore a coronet or fmall crown of gold upon his head, called in the Englifh language a garland % ; and fat upon the throne of itate in a glorious manner But every preceding exhibition of grandeur feems to have been eclipfed by the extraordinary pomp with which the nuptials of Alexander the Third, king of Scotland, with Margaret the eldefr. daughter of Henry the Third, were celebrated at York. Matthew Paris, who was prefent at the ceremony, and of courfe had never feen any thing equally fplendid, appears to have been more dif- gufted than pleafed at what he faftidioufly calls the foppery of the tunes j| : " there were," fays he, li great abundance of people of all ranks, multitudes of the nobility of England, France, and Scot- land, with crowds of knights and military officers, the whole of them wantonly adorned with garments of filk, and fo transformed with abundance of ornaments, that it would be impoffible to de- fcribe their dreffes particularly without being tirefome to the Reader, though they might indeed excite his aftonifhment. Upwards of one thoufand knights, on the part of the king of England, attended the nuptials in veftments of filk which are commonly called co'intifes ^[ : thefe veftments on the morrow were laid afide, and the fame knights appeared in new robes, reprefenting the officers of the court **. Sixty and more knights, with other officers of equal rank, attended upon the part of the king of Scotland in veftments equally fplendid. This love of parade was by no means confined to England : in- deed, I rather think it was imported from the continent. An ancient preciociJJimis\&cc. Matt. Paris, Hilt. Major, % Coronula aurea qme vulgaritcr garlaa- liib an. 12.35. da dicitur. Ibid. * Sericis vrfthnentis ornati ; cycladibus § Sedens gloriose in folio regio. Ibid. euiro textis circundati. Matt. Paris, Tub || Lafcivavanitas. Ibid, lub anno 1251. .anno 1236. f Rex vefle denuratd^ fafta de preciofiJJ:* mo baldikino. Ibid, fub an. 1247, ^[ P r idgarith loquamnr coi'n tiles. Ibid. * * . Srfe i urlr rej>r\rfaitarimt. Ibid . Qq author, THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. F&RT IV. author*, fpeaking of the great feftival that was held at Paris at the coronation of queen Mary in the year of our Lord 1275, fays, " it was extremely grand, infomuch that it would be almoft impoffible to defcribe the different difplays of. pomp and ceremony. The ba- rons and the knights," continues he, " were habited in veftments of divers colours : fometimes they appeared in green, fometimes in blue,, then again in grey, and afterwards in fcarlet, varying the colours according to their fancies. Their breafts were adorned with fibulae,, or broches, of gold-}-; and their fhoulders with precious ftones, of great magnitude, fuch as emeralds, fapphires, jacinths, pearls, ru- bies, and other rich ornaments. The ladies who attended had rings of gold, fet with topaz-ftones and diamonds, upon their fingers ; their heads were ornamented with elegant crefts, or garlands % ; and their wimples were compofed of the richeft Huffs, embroidered with pure gold, and embellifhed with pearls and other jewels." The ancient monaftic hiftorians, and thofe efpecially of our own country, have been very delicate in the applications of their cenfure to the foibles of the fair fex §: the fame politenefs, however, did not reftrain the more exuberant fancies of the early poets-; and none 3 have been more fevere in their reflections upon this fubject than the authors of the Romance of the Rofe || ; particularly John de Meun, who finifhed the poem : he greatly exceeded his predeceffor in the feverity of his cenfures, and extended his farcafms beyond the bounds of truth or decency. It is remarkable, that two of the moft offeniive lines in the whole work Ihould have been adopted, with little or no variation, by a modern poet of our own nation : he has, indeed, been blamed, and juftly blamed, for broaching fuch a fentiment amongft us t but the French bard was in imminent danger of fuffering an exemplary punifhment for his temerity : being on a time furrounded by a party of females, who were determined to revenge the infult their whole fex had fuftained by his malevolence, he had recourfe to variety of ar- guments to appeafe their anger, but in vain, until at laft he cried out,, t£ If I muft be punifhed by you, as I perceive it is determined I fhall,, be, let the fair one, who beft amongft you deferves the cenfure, be the firft to inflict the penalty." The remit was favourable for the culprit, who was fuffered to efcape, becaufe no one of the affembly would acknowledge herfelf deferving of the accufation. * This author wrote, in the fourteenth century, the Hiftory of France ; which is preferved in MS. in the Royal Library at the Britifh Mufeum, marked 20. c. VII. f Les fremanx d'or es poitrines. MS. + Cretones. MS- § Seepages 107 and 109. j| This poem is written in French : it was begun by William de Lorris, who died A. D. 1260, leaving it unfinifhed. It was afterwards taken up and com- pleted by John de Meun about the year 1304. The lines in French are : Toutes etes, Jerez ou futes, . De fait ou de * Du Cange calls it tunica, feu Jagum milltare, Glofs, fub. voce Tabarchm, moderate i5 a THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. F APvT IV. moderate length* ; and long tabards are expreflly fpoken of*}- : thefe, I prefume, were fuch as were adopted by the nobility ; and, agreeable to this opinion, we find king Richard the Second reprefented in a tabard, richly embroidered with the arms of France and England, reaching to his heels j;. The SUPER-TOTUS. This garment is alfo called babndrana, and balandrava, by the writers of this period, and was perfectly ana- logous, I doubt not, to -the fuper-vejlimentum fpoken of in the fuc- ceeding century. The fuper-toius anfwered the purpofe of the modern great-coat, and was worn over the other garments, as the name fuffl- ciently exprefTes. It was ufed by travellers, and chiefly by fuch as rode on horfeback§. The figure on the right hand, in the circle at the bottom of the feventy-fecond plate, is depicted with a garment of like kind ; and in this inftance we fee the right arm is left at liberty. The SHORT TUNIC, when appropriated to the nifties, was forme - times worn without the belt, as we find it exemplified by the figure towards the left hand upon the fifty-firft plate ; but this does not ap- pear by any means to have been a general cuftom. The tunics be- longing to perfons of more elevated ftations, efpecially fuch of them as are employed in hunting, or other exercifes that required agility, are reprefented open at the front from the girdle downwards, as we fee them depicted upon the fifty-third plate. The tunic of the middle figure upon the fifty-fecond plate is fhaped in a particular manner at the bottom, and is, I prefume, one of that fpecies of cut or flamed garments which, according to Bromton and other ancient authors, forbidden to be worn in England ||. Du Cange mentions a kind of perioral which he calls a winter- tunic ; but of this I have not feen any fpecimen. Matthew Paris fpeaks alfo of double garments for the winter, which belonged to king Henry the Third and his courtiers**; but thefe might probably be * Tabarda longitudinis moderate. Con- di. Budenfean. A. D. 1279. f Longum tabardum for the prefbyters of the Hofpital de Elfing-fpittel at Lon- don. A. t>. 1331- Dugdaie's Monafti- con, vol. II. % See plate LXXXIV. § The monks of the order of St. Bene- di& were forbidden to wear the balan- dr.ana, or any other garment appertain- ing to the laity., when they rode out. Con- cil. Albienfe, an. 12.54, cap. 53. || Statutum fuit in Anglorum genfe, tie quis efcarleto Sabelino vario vel grifeo, aut ve/ii- mentis laqueatis, uteretur. Johan. Brom- ton, fub an. 1 188. Et quod nullus habeat pamws decifos &: laceatos. Gervafius Do- robern. fub eodem anno. Pecloralis, — tunica hyemalis, qua pec- tus tegitur. Du Cange, fub voce peflor*Hs f ** Veftibus duplicibus. Matt. Paris, Hift. Major, fub an. 1254. Without doubt, the garments were varied accord- ing to the feafons. Robert de Sumercote probably received his name from fome circumftance of this kind. Ibid, fub an, 1 24;. long FART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. I long tunics, or mantles, lined with fur. It is evident, from great variety of examples, that the tunics of both kinds were lined with ma- terials of different colours, if not of different textures, from the outer parts of the fame garments. The LONG TUNIC in many inftances is alfo depicted open at the bottom, as we fee it reprefented upon the fifty-fourth plate; but a more fti iking example occurs upon the fifty-fixth plate; and the tunic of the king upon the fifty-ninth plate is open at the breaft, and. turned back on either fide like two fmall lappels. The DALMATIC was a fpecies of the long tunic, and a veftment principally appropriated to the clergy ; but it was alfo worn by the Englifh monarch s at the time of their coronation, and upon other occaJions of great folemnity * The dalmatic formed part of the coronation-habit of Richard the Firft, and was put upon him imme- diately after the tunic this garment is clearly reprefented upon the fifty-feventh plate : it has loofe fleeves, reaching to the elbows ; and is fomewhat fhorter than the tunic. A dalmatic of dark purple occurs in an inventory of the regalia,, taken in the ninth year of king John J. The ROBE, which was indifcriminately worn by all perfons of rank, was alfo a garment of the tunic- kind, and, like it, was put upon the body over the head, as the following anecdote, recorded by Matthew Paris, will clearly prove: Henry the Firft, according to that author, was accuftomed, whenever he had a new robe made for himfelf, to caufe another to be made from the lame cloth, and pre- ferred, as a mark of refpect, to his brother Robert, then confined in prifon. — " It chanced," adds he, "ona feftival-day, that the king, in endeavouring to put on a new fcarlet robe, burft a ftitch in the collar which had been made too narrow for his head : he therefore laid it alide, and faid to thofe about him, ' Take away this garment, and give it to the duke my brother, whofe head is fmaller than mine.' Unfortunately, the rent was not mended when it was delivered to the duke, who, discovering the fraclure, was highly offended, and accufed the king of mocking him, by fending him his old and torn garments, as an alms given to a pauper ; and he took the matter fo much to heart, that he refufed his food,, and pined to death || " * The dalmatic of St. Edward is faid + Nigra purpura. Tower Rolls Patent to have been preferred many years after p° Johan. No. 24. bis death. ^ § Introitum capucii, qui gukrum vulga- f Veftierunt eum— prima tunica, de- riter gallicc appeilatur. Matt. Paris, fub. ifidd dalmatica, &c. See the full defcrip- an. 1 1 34. tion of his habit, page 147. || Ibid. B. r Tlie l£4 THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. F A.RT IV. The robe is alfo frequently called in Latin capa and cappa, becaufe it ufually had a cape, or hood, belonging to it. The capa, I pre- fume, was originally a covering for the head, and diftin6t from any other part of the drefs : at length it became an appendage to the robe, the gown, and -the mantle.; and in variety of inftances they are all three indefinitely called by its name *. Du Cange, or an author cited by him, derives the word capa from the ufe of the gar- ment itfelf, namely, its covering the greater part of the wearer -j-; but this definition feems to partake more of ingenuity than of verilimi- litude. Matthew Paris, indeed, mentions a veftment of this kind without an hood J \ but he fpeaks of it as a garment of little value, which had probably loft that appendage. The robes were compofed of different materials, and their co- lours probably depended upon the fancy of the wearers. In the fixth year of John's reign, a robe that the king gave to Richard Lepor, his huntfman, coft ten millings. §. The fame prince ordered his treafurer to pay to William de Camera fifteen fhillings, and to Hugh de Melville the fame fum, to purchafe each of them a new robe ||. He alfo caufed eleven pounds eighteen millings to be paid for eight robes for the knights belonging to his court . From an ancient writer, cited by Du Cange, we learn that, in the year 1202, a green robe, lined with cendel, coft fixty fhillings ; and the lining itfelf was eftimated at forty fhillings ** Henry the Third gave order to his tailor to make two robes ornamented with fringes of gold, and diverfified with various colours f-f. He alfo required three other lobes de quintifu ; one of them to be made with the heft violet coloured famit, embroidered with three little leopards in front, and three behind ; and the other two with the choiceft cloth that could be procured. Matthew Paris alfo, fpeaking of the drefles of the Enolifh nobility who attended at the marriage of Alexander, king of Scotland, with the daughter of king Henry the Third, informs us, that they were habited in veftments of filk, commonly called com- tifes, on the day the ceremony was performed ; but on the .day following thefe garments were laid aiide, and they appeared in new * The capa, or hooded mantle, .is fpoken of in page 97. The robe men- tioned in the foregoing anecdote is alfo called capa: — Hcec capa deferatur, &c. Matt. Paris, ut fuprii. The fame author fpeaks of veftes pretiojijimas , qitas robas vulgariter appellatnus, de efcarleto prceelcclo, fub an. 12,48. -f- Capam — quia quqfi totum capiat homi m 7ie?n. Ibid, in voce capa. + Babens paupe rem capam fine capu- tio. Ibid fub an. 1247. § Tower Rolls, memb. 21. || Ibid. memb. 8. II. \ Ibid. 2.1. ** Glofs. in voce cendalum^ ■Y\ cum aurifraxis femilatis &J* vau't coloris. Clauf. 36 Hen. III. memb. 30. robes. V PART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 1^5 robes.* The word quintijis or co'inlifis, related, I prefume, to fome particular form or fafhion of the garments known in England at that time. -f~ The SUPER-TUNIC and the SURCOAT. I have nothing new to offer in the prefent chapter refpecting the fuper-tunic, which, pro- bably, as I obferved before, originated from the furcoat of the Sax- ons ^ ; though we fhall find both thefe garments mentioned in the fucceeding century, but not apparently diftinguifhed from each other. I have conlidered them both as garments appropriated to the winter ; and, in proof that the latter was fo, I mail cite the authority of Philip Moufkes, an ancient French poet. He informs us, that Char- lemagne " had always in winter a new furcoat with fleeves, lined with fur, to guard his body and his breaft from the cold The garments called cyclades by Matthew Paris, which, he informs us, were worn by the citizens of London who affifted at the corona- tion of Henry the Third and his queen, were fuper-tunics , or gowns, rather than mantles ; becaufe he fpeaks of them as furrounding their other veftments \\. The cyclas, that formed part of the coronation- habit of Judith, daughter to the king of Bohemia, is exprefsly faid to have refembled a dalmatic ; and it was worn immediately beneath the mantle The cyclades of the Londoners were outer garments, and probably fupplied the place of the mantle, as the gown appears continually to have done ; but in fome inftances the cyclas feem to have been ufed as a cloak or mantle. The MANTLE. The Jhort mantle, during this century, feems to have given place greatly to the caputium, or hooded cloak, which covered * Veftiti ferico, ut vidgaritir loquamur Coi'ntifeSj in nuptiis ; in crajiitio, omni- bus illis abjeclis, in novis robis apparuerunt. Hift. Major, fub an. 1251. f In this fenfe the appellation was certainly underftood by the cotemporary French writers. William de Lorris, in the Romance of the Rofe, defcribing the drefs of Mirth, fays, he was veiled D'une robe moult Jefgtiifee, §>ui fut en maint lieu incifee, Et de coppee, par cointife. Line 839, & infra. Chaucer tranflates thefe lines thus : JKLivottsljt toa«s !}t<3 vobz in ftraunge gpft, %nH al to fli>ttmn for qucyutgfe. That is to fay, his robe nvas cut, or flaftied^ in a quaint or firange manner. 1 Page 94. § A toujours en iver Jt ot t A mances un noviel furcot Fourre devair, & degoupis. Four gar der Jon corps & fon bis. In vita Caioli Magni. And in the Tower Rolls there is an or- der from king John for " unam robam de ferico furratam de purpuro cendaiio, & unam fuper-tunicam de blou et bi/fo, et unam fuper-tunicam de efcarleto, cujus medietas furrata eft viricli cendalio Rot. Clauf. m. 5. || Sericis veftimcntis ornati^ cycladibus auro textis circundati. Hift. Major, fub an. 1236. ^[ Cycladem auro textam inflar dalma- tics & preciofi(]imi operis quatn fub mantello ferebat etiam auro texto induto. Monachus. Pegavienfis, fub an. 1096. See alio pages 131. 149. the 4 I$6 THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IT. the fhoulders, and rarely extended below the breaft ; the hood itfelf was drawn up at pleafure, and formed a covering for the head ; but it is alfo frequently reprefented thrown off behind, and hanging upon the back. Examples of both are given upon the fifty fourth plate *. The hood belonging to the middle figure is ornamented' with a kind of fringe at the bottom. This garment appears to have originated with the inferior claries of people, to whom it is chiefly attributed by the illuminators of this century. In procefs of time, however, we find the caput turn was adopted by perfonsof fuperior rank. The caput'wm differed from the hooded mantles mentioned in a pre- ceding part of this work, not only in its fize, but in its fafhion. if The long mantles do not appear to have undergone any material alteration during this century. The regal mantle reprefented upon the fifty-fixth plate is thrown over the left fhoulder without a fibula, or cordon ; but that upon the following plate is attached by a double cordon, which paffes over the right fhoulder. — Both thefe mantles are lined with ermine, or fome other precious fur : the long mantle, lined with fur, was worn by both fexes. Henry the Third ordered two mantles, lined with ermine, to be made, one for himfelf, and the other for the queen J. The mantle belonging to Edward the Firft, upon the flxtieth plate, is not only lined with ermine, but alfo ornamented with a. return of the fame rich fur, falling a fmall diftance. from the neck over the fhoulders, breaft, and back. The capa pluvialis, or, as it is called by the old French writers, chape a pluie, was evidently a garment ufed by travellers to defend them from the rain It was certainly a large cloak, or mantle, thrown over the ufual drefs, rather than a fuper-tunic, or a robe, or any other ftrait garment : therefore the pallium, or larger mantle, is faid by an ancient writer, cited by LXi Gange, to have been com- monly called the cappa jj. Agreeable to this idea,, a French poet of the thirteenth century fpeaks of a party of knights, difguifed like merchants, in large cloaks^; and another contemporary writer, defcribes the capa pluvialis as a defenfive garment, in cafe of rain,, worn over the other vefrments and probably it might in fome meafure refemble the large horfeman's coats in ufe at the preicnt day. * See alfo plate LI. % Tos a giufe de marcheans, •\ Page 96. Fuzent vettus de chapes grans. + Clauf. 36 Hen. 3. memb. 30* Roman de Florimond. § Agreeable to this idea, Matthew ** Super pluviale vejie que capa voci- Paris calls thefe garments capee 'viatorice. tatur ; and a French poet fays, d'une || Tollens pallium Juum cjuodvulgb cappa chape a pluie offeubla ; which may be tranfr vacatur. DuCange, Gloff, in voce capa. lated, clothed in afou.-vjeatber cloak. The SAfRT IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. The CLOCA, which feems to be the Englifh word cloak Latinifed* was alfo a garment of the fame kind, and allowed to the clergy when they rode on horfeback *. The BRACCI, or drawers, which Chaucer calls in the lingular number a breche\, appear to be larger and loofer than they were in the former century. There were two forts of drawers in ufe at this time : the firft were faflened, like the breeches of the prefent day, a little below the knees, as we fee them exemplified by the middle figure upon the fifty- third plate. The fecond fort were connected with the hofe, as they appear to. be in the two other examples upon the fame plate ; and alfo in that given upon the fifty-fixth plate, where the hofe are ornamented with the crofs-gartering, which, however, does not appear to have been a prevalent cuftom at this period. The Englifh word hofe and the Latin word caliga are generally confidered as fynonymous, and applied to the flocking*. It appears, however, from an order given by king John to his chamberlain, command- ing him to procure the neceffary parts of drefs for the ufe of his fon Geoffry,, that they were diftincl from each other %. The hofe at that time were probably the fame as the drawers, and the caliga as the ftockings ; and Malmfbury ufes the latter word in this fenfe The SHOES, according to the drawings of this century, do not feem to have undergone any material alteration, excepting only that in one inftance we find the points at the toes fomewhat longer and fharper than ufual, as they appear upon the fifty-third plate ; but the ufage of this kind of fhoes does by no means appear to have been general'. Sandals of? purple cloth, and fotulares ornamented with filligree-work of gold, are enumerated as parts of the drefs belonging to king John ||. The fotulares, or fubt a lares, were a fpecies of fhoes that feem to have been principally calculated for warmth : they fat clofe about the ancles, and frequently afc ended nearly halfway up the leg, as thofe appertaining to the king appear to do, plate fifty-eight, and to the archbifhop on the fixty-eighth plate. The fandals, I prefume,, were analogous to the open fhoes which we find reprefented upon the fifty- feventh plate, where they feem to be ornamented with. embroi- dery. An example of the fiort boots worn at this period occurs upon the fifty-fifth plate :■ thefe differed from the fubtalares in being loofer * In equhando cloca rotunda competent!; P.ot. Libertet. 2° an. Johan<. raemb.'l. longitudims utantur, Sec. Matt. Farisj § See page, 104. Vit. Abbat. fol. 252. || Ttimcftm de purpura, & fandalia-d'r f 2 Iwiec&e a»t> c&e a afcettr. Rhyme of eedtm panno, & unum par fotnlarium fret- v Sir Thopas. , tas de orfrajio, &c. de Jocal. recipiencUs, \ Tria porta hofarum & du$ pan'a Pat. 9 Johannis,, No.. ^4. caligarum, ad opus Gaufridi fitii no'ftri. S.s. and ^3 SHE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. U A.RT IV. and they were worn without any bandages to fatten them upon the hjrrg. "There was not any material change in the manner of wearing the hair during the thirteenth -century, fome few m fiances excepted ; in which it appears to have .been confined to one curl at the bottom, and extended at the fides to a greater diftance than it had been prior to that period. The beard continued to be worn without the leait apparent change of fafhion. To what has been faid in a former chapter concerning the hat, or the pileus, as it is called in Latin, may be added, that k was occafionally ufed as a mark of prerogative. It is recorded, that Richard the Firft, while he was detained as a pri- soner bv the emperor, divefted himfelf of his right to the crown ot England, and refigned the fame to the emperor, giving his pleus to that potentate, as the fymbol of his refignation, which however was immediately reftored to him*. And, in after-times, Edward the Third, by the confent of parliament, folemnly inverted his Ion •.the Black Prince with the title of prince of Wales, giving him a cap of (late furmounted with a coronet, which was placed upon his head, and a ring of gold for his finger, and a rod of filver which was de- livered into his hand f : fo alio John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, was created duke of Aquitain by the gift of the pileus, and a rod, the ftaft of office, both of which he received from the hands of king Richard the Second, his nephew %. This hat, or cap of 'ft ate, is .exemplified upon the fifty-fixth plate : the figure there delineated reprefents a -perfonage of the higheft rank in his official .capacity, holding a fword inftead of the rod, which in feveral inftances appears to have been cuftomary : the top of this cap is ornamented with a taffel. The CROWN is varied in its form in the four reprefen- tations given of it upon the fifty-feventh and the three follow- ing plates ; but its appearance upon the fifty ninth plate is alto- gether fingular. The monarchs of this country did not always appear with the crown upon their heads ; it was fometimes dif- penfed with even upon ftate-occafions ; for, a contemporary hiftorian afTures us, that Henry the Third, at the time he knighted William of Valence, earl of Pembroke, was feated upon his throne, in a fplen- y the fame monarch for the ufe of Geoffry his natural fon. The Ikins of lambs are reckoned among the inferior kinds of furs, and were chiefly worn for warmth ; but an antient author, whole words we fhall have occafion to quote in a future part of this work, auures us, that the Ikins of foxes compofed the warmeft lining that could be procured for the winter-garments. He afterwards recom- mends the Ikins of rabbits, of cats, and of hares f ; but thofe of fquirrels feem to have been the moft eftimable of any produced in this Country ; and, indeed, they appear to have been equally prized upon the Continent %. Henry the Third commanded two mantles furred with ermine to be made for the queen, to be ready againft Chriftmas-day \ ; which leads me to obferve, that the fummer-gar- ments, and efpecially the mantles appertaining to great perfonages, were not lined with fur, but with filk, taffata, cendal, ox other light thin {tuffs. In fome inftances, the fur was worn upon the outer part of the garments, and formed an ornamental facing ; which in the fucceeding centuries grew into common ufage ||. The mantles belonging to the nobility of both fexes were made of various precious materials, and copioufly embellifhed with gold, filver, and rich embroideries f . The French poets mention rich mantles of Alexandrian work adorned with fringes of gold ** ; and, in the Romance of Garin, a lady is faid to have been decorated with a peltjon of ermine, over which fhe wore a mantle of Alexandrian work elegantly fafhioned with bandages of gold ff. An Author of our own Country quotes an antient record, in which mention is made of a woollen mantle lined with cloth of Tars of a blood colour, and of a penula of the fame cloth and colour . The mantles at this period were not only compofed of various materials, but were alfo of various fizes. We find the mantle long and ample upon the fixty-third plate ; and, in one of the examples there given, it is fattened on the breaft with a large round broche, or * Penula de agnis. Ibid. memb. 4. f Thus pallium auroparatum, a mantle + MS in the Sloan Library at the embroidered nvitk gold, frequently occurs Britifh Mufeum, marked 2435. in the Latin authors of this asra. '+ Et fercot d 'ermine moult bel ** Et le mantel a fin col It band 1 _ De foie en graine ; & chafcun d'els Riche d'orfrois depaille Alexandnn. Avoit bon mantel d'efcurels. . Roman de Gann, Vetus Poeta MS. e Bib. Coflin. ft Bienfut vejlue d un pelican herm-n,^ h Clauf. anno 36 Hen. HI. memb. 30. Etpar deffus d un pail e Alexandnn, J| Thus Montfaucon, fpeaking of the A bandes d or mult belement lejijt. mantle of Blanch, the confort of Charles l £ ld - kinff of France, fays, it was double de which were ribbands or bandages, in imita- tion, I prefume, of the bends or circles of gold, and worn upon the forehead ; thefe ribbands, when made of lilk, were prohibited to profeffors of Religion J. The form of the CROWN is fo perfectly reprefented upon the fixty-fburth plate, that it needs no defcription : the materials with which this fumptuous ornament was fabricated we may learn from hiftory. Matthew Paris informs us, that Henry the Third caufed a crown to be made for his lifter I label, the Emprefs, of very curious workman (hip : it was compofed of the pureft gold that could be pro- cured, and adorned with gems of the moft precious kind CHAPLETS of goldlmiths' work, ornamented with garlands of rofes, were worn by perfonages of rank at this period || ; and thofe who could not afford to purchafe the former adorned their heads with the latter alone. The young ladies, in Spring time, made them- fehes garlands of flowers^]"; and we frequently fee them reprefented, in the antient illuminated calendars, gathering flowers for that purpofe : part of a painting of this kind is copied upon the eighty- ninth plate ; and the young lady, upon the fixty-firft plate, is drawn with a branch of rofe buds in her right hand, and in her left a garland compofed of flowers : but this fubject will be refumed in the fucceeding century. \ The STOCKINGS and the SHOES. Concerning thefe parts of the female habit I have little to fay in the prelent chapter for the rea- fons given in a former part of the work **. In an order from king John for feveral articles of drefs appertaining to his confort, we rind mention made of four pair of women's boots -frf*, and one pair of them to be ornamented with circles of fretwork^. An antient na> Mafaldae, an. 125^ 3 5[ And alio prefented them to their lo- Unum fuper-caput ad filiam juam barrnda vers, as we learn from the Romance juft cum auro ; Hilt. Genealog. Domu6 Reg. quoted 5 where the garland of Mirth is laid Portug. p. 33. to have been made by his fweethear f See page 113. Et samte hi Jit chappeau % Du Cange, in voce binda. De rofcs gracieux et beau, § See page 148., and the third note of And thus Chaucer : that page. $10 leefe a tofen cpapelet \\ In the Romance of the Rofe it is ftaO maSe, anH on &10 £ee& it fe faid of Idlenefs, ** Page 113. Ung chappel de rofes tout frais i -f-f guatuor parium botarum adfoemiita , Eut drtfus le chappel d'orfrays > Rot. Libertat. an. 2° Johan. racrab. 1. Thus rendered bv Chaucer : ++ This I take to be the meaning of flDf fgne orfrapa Ijati ftc a epapeler, the original words, frttatus de giris. Ibid. 8nt» fapre a&otoe ^|>at cipapclet 3 ioft Garland i;a$ Hot fet. X x French 170 THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO- NORMANS. PART IT. French poet alfo, enumerating the feveral parts of the ladies' apparel, fpeaks of their jhort boots*. The nuns of Montmartre were per- mitted to ufe boots lined with fur ; and this indulgence was granted to them on account of the iituation of their nunnery, which, ftanding upon an high hill, was of courfe expofed to the inclemency of the weather : and, for the purchafe of thefe boots, they were allowed three fols a piece upon every faint's day*f\ GLOVES appear to have been partially ufed by the ladies of high rank towards the conclulion of this century. In the Romance of the Rofe, the Poet has given to Idlenefs a pair of white gloves ; but thefe were evidently worn to prevent her hands from being tanned by the fun rather than for warmth { ; and fuch gloves were probably made of linen, or fome other light material. I apprehend that the ufage of gloves was not general among the ladies, becaufe they concealed the rings with which they adorned their fingers : the fleeves of the gowns, however, were lengthened, like mittens, to the knuckles by way of fuccedaneum ; and thefe fleeves were turned up or let down at pleafure, as we ihall find them repeatedly exemplified in the fucceeding century. To avoid repetition, I fhall defer the little that occurs concerning the bracelets, necklaces, forehead-jewels, girdles, and other ornamental parts of the ladies' drefs at this time in ufe, to a fubfequent chapter. * Ijor feurcos et lor cortes botes. Vitae Pa- + E pour mieulx garder fes mains blanches trum MS. De nailery elle eut ung gans blanc. f This allowance was made to them Lines 575, 576. by the abbefs Helifenda A. D. 123 r. Which paffage our countryman Chau» Mr.Gough's Introduction to his Sepulchral cer thus translates : Monuments, vol. I. p. 186. 9nt> for to 6epe |>er £onl)f0 fafre, flDf globffi to&i e i&e pan a pager. CHAP. PART IT. THE HABITS OP THS ANGLO-KORMANS. CHAP. IV. The Military Habits of the Thirteenth Century. — The De- fcription of a Knight arming himfelf — The feveral Parts of the Military Habits dejcribed. — Their different Names and Ufes explained \ &c. IN a former chapter *, we have feen that the mail-armour of the Normans was carried to great perfection during the twelfth cen- tury ; and, indeed, it will be a difficult matter to introduce two more beautiful and more perfect fpecimens of the Norman armour than thofe remaining at Danburyf. The Reader will find, upon exa- mination of the fixty-fifth and fixty-fixth plates, what farther im- provements were made in the military habit during the thirteenth century ; but, as a fhort explanation of the conftituent parts of that habit may be thought neceflary, I fhall endeavour in fome de- gree to illucidate the fubjecT:. Claud Fauchet, a French writer of great refpeclability, defcribes an antient knight arming himfelf in the following manner : c< He firft (fays my Author) drew on the chaufes, or breeches of mail', he then put on a goubaifon, or gambefon, a veftment fitted to the body, and reaching nearly to the middle of the thighs ; to this fucceeded the gorget, called in French haujfe col ; and over the gorget and the gambefon he placed an hauberk, or Jhirt of mail, which defcended to the knees ; and the breeches of mail were attached to the hau- * Page 1 14. j See plates XLV. and XL VI. berk; THB HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IT. berk * ; fo alfo was a capicbon, or hood of mail, which covered the head, and might occasionally be thrown back upon the fhoulders ■*}-. The hauberk was girt with a large belt or girdle of leather, called antiently in French bdudrier\, and in Englifh baudrkke^, from which the fword depended ; and, belides this fword, the knight uiually wore a fmall knife, or rather dagger, called Mercy ||, becaufe (adds my author), when a combatant was call to the ground, and faw the knife in the hand of his opponent, he begged for mercy, if he deli red to be refpited from death ;** fo far Fauchet : but we are by no means to con- ceive that he has given us the entire habit of the knight; fo much only of it occurs as appertained to his military office. The fhirt, the draw- ers, and the ftockings of cloth, are not mentioned : the two former, however, were certainly worn beneath thofe parts of the foldier's drefs described by him ; and the latter moft probably were not want- ing : to thefe we may alfo add the furcoat, or, as it was afterwards called, the cote de armer, or cote armure, and the mantle. The habi- liments of the knight, reprefented upon the lixty-ttxth plate, differ in feveral particulars from the defcription juft given : his coat or Jhirt of mad reaches only to the middle of his thighs, and is parted in the front a fmall way from the lower edge : the breeches of mail have not the leaft appearance of being fattened to the coat of mail, and they defcend no lower than the bottom of his knees; the anterior part of his legs are well defended by a fpecies of armour re- fembling the greaves of the Greeks and Romans, compofed appa- rently of plates of meral properly adjufted to the parts they were de- figned to cover, and fattened behind : but the clafps or ligatures which bound them upon the legs are not feen in the delineation. His hood of mail conlifts of two portions ; the one to cover the head, and the other to protect the lower parts of the face and neck : and they are connected by fmall fillets or cordons. His helmet is wanting, to complete his drefs ; but the artift has given its form diftinc'tly from the figure, as the Reader may find it accurately copied at the bottom * A ces chemife de mailles efioient coufues les chnuffes. Claud Fauchet, de rOrigine des Chevaliers, liv. ii. p. 40. — Capucbon on coeffe de maille. Ibid. f See pages 115 and 1 16 of this work. \ It was fo called, fays Fauchet, be- caufe it was made of leather by the cur- rier (baudroieur), whofe bufinefs it was to prepare {baudroie et endurclt) the ikins for that purpofe } liv. ii. p. 40. § Chaucer, fpeaking of the Squire's yeoman, fays, his battfcric&e te30 of firetie. This baudricke, however, feems rather to have been a fafli paffed over the {houlder than a belt or girdle ; for, the Poet previoufly mentions a belt as part of the yeoman's drefs. Prologue to the Can- terbury Tales. — Spencer calls the zodiac the bauldrich of Heaven. || Petit coufteau runtime Miferkorde» Fauchet, ut fupra. Of -ART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANtSLO-NORM AN5. I.73 of the fixty-fixth plate. The fpun, an effential mark of knighthood, appear in this delineation without the rowel. That the Jhirf, and the breeches or drawers of cloth, formed the interior parts of the foldiers' habit, may be afTerted from repeated authority. In the Romance of Lancelot de Lac, it is exprefsly laid of ■one of the knights, that, after he had difarmed himfelf, he retired to bed ; but he took not off his fhirt nor his breeches * : and, in the fame ftory, Boors, a warrior of diftinclion, when called from his bed by the fervant of a princefs, put on his fhirt and his breeches, and threw his mantle over his fhoulders, and followed her : and our own countryman Chaucer, defcribing the military habit of Sir Thopas, decides the matter clearly ; for he tells us, that the knight put on a fhirt and breeches of cloth of lake ; and over his fhirt a haketon J, which is only another name for the gambafon mentioned by Fauchet. It is, perhaps, almoft needlefs to add, that the breeches and the ftockings, included under the general title of hofe, were frequently united, and formed fimply one part of the drefs : we find the hofe lb reprefented in a variety of inftances, and without the leaft appearance of fhoes : in fuch cafes, the bottom parts of the hofe were fitted to the feet with much precifion, and furnifhed. with foles fufficiently thick and ftrong to protect them from injury in walking. The CHAUSSES, or breeches of mail, covered the feet and the legs, and part of the thighs : I fay part of the thighs only, becaufe Fauchet exprefsly declares, that the breeches of mail were at- tached to the hauberk, or coat of mail : of courfe, this connection tuuft have taken place beneath the gambafon, which the fame author aflures us reached to the middle of the thighs. If this ftatement be correct, they mould rather have been called ftockings than breeches of mail ; and the latter title may be applied with much greater pro- priety to the thigh-coverings of the knight, delineated upon the ixxty-fixth plate. A modern writer § informs us, the feet were co- vered with fhoes compofed of " double chain mail but I doubt this *liftincYion cannot eafily be traced in the early fpecimens of the mail- armour ||. The coverings for the legs, appropriated to the middle figure, and to the figure towards the left hand holding a battle-axe, *Ilfe couchera mais n'ejle nle fa chemife ne fes braies. MS. in Bib. Regis infig. 20. D. iv. f II vieji fa chemife & cauce fes braies & pretit y manvel, &c. Ibid. + $e fliti on |»0 toftite lew fiDf clot?) of lale fine anH dete, $1 breche antJ e&e a iherte, Snti nejtt l)t0 flritt an haketon ; Sec. Rhyme of Sir Thopas; Canterbury Tales, § Mr. Gough, in the Preface to his Sepvilehral Monuments., page 140. || Matthew Paris calls the military fhoes Heuies j " Calceamentis militari- bus qua vulgariter Heufes dicuntur" &C. (Hift. Major, fub anno 1247); which feems to be nothing more than Latini- zing the word bof, or, perhaps, rather the French word heufe, of the fame im- port. y y reprefented THE HABITS OP THE AS GL O-N ORTU AXr. PART m reprefented upon the fixty-fifth plate, differ greatly from the appear- ance of the mail : thefe coverings are ftrengthened with ftuds or ri- vets, and are bound upon the leg3 with bandages, which, in the latter example, are croffed over each other at right angles fo as to form St number of fmall fquares, and every fquare has a ftud or rivet in the middle. The GAMBESON * This part of the military habit was gene- rally made of cloth ; but fometimes alfo of leather doubled, and fluffed with wool, tow, hair, or linen rags -f - ; and it was quilted^' ffrongly together, and fitted to the body, in order to prevent it from- being chafed by the external armour, as well as to defend it from the- blows of the fword or the fpear. The gambefon defcended to the middle of the thighs ; and the fame kind of garment was worn by the women, to regulate their fhape ; but, as Fauchet juftly obferves, it was not made fo flout and ftrong for them, either with refpeci to- the materials or by the quilting. The woman, at the bottom of the-, hundred and third plate, taken from an old Englifh poem called " The- Pilgrim," is habited in the gambefon, without any other* clothing jh. In. this delineation, the gambefon has no fleeves ; a circumftance not mentioned by the authors who have written^ upon this fubje6t. The lacings of the military gambefons were compofed of variety of mate- rials ; but thofe of taffety and buckram feem to have been the mofb eftimable : the latter efpecially was confidered as beft calculated to refifl the, blows from the weapon of an enemy. In an antient French-' Chronicle, the buckram aketon, or gambefon, is faid to have preferved a warrior from hurt, after, his fhield and his coat of mail had been cut- through by the ftroke of a fword §. In the fucceeding centuries- the jaque, or jacket, which were only different appellations given to the gambefon, was faced with leather. Coquellart defcribes the- jaque as made offhamois, and fluffed with flocks, which he calls a« jaque d'Anglois, or Engliftj jacket, and adds, that it reached to the? * It wasalfo called goubijjbn, gobifon, gombefon, wambafeum, aketon, aqueton, ho- queton, guipon, and.jupas ; and afterwards jaque, jacket, doublet, and pourpoint ; the latter appellation it received from the punctures made in the quilting, as the following lines feem clearly to teftify : • Et tout ainji comme faid eji De pontures le goubiffon, Powquoi pourpoint U appelleton, Sec. ClaudFauchet, ut fupra. See alio Du Cange, in voce ga?nbefo» ; & Daniel de la Milice Francois, liv. vi. p. 282. f The pourpoint or jacke of fir John Laun nee, who was flain at the liege of Lyxtone, in Caftile., according to Froif- fart, was " flopped *witb flke 3" vol. III. chap.- 43.. % The pilgrim fays of this woman, that fhe, " &at>e a gambefoun, tcaa na&pfc f and, freaking of herfelf, ihe fays, 8trti tbe toorin 1 fiabe forfaBe, lBLic|)eire antj alle poceflfcoun, &at>e oonlg ti?i0 gambefoun. MS. in the Cottonian library at the Bri- - tifh Mufeum, marked Tiberius A. VII. . § IJefu li defrompij fp le bonjaxerant, Maisle haucton fut fort qui Jut de bou-: querant. Chron, Burt. Guefclini, MS. knees,*. FART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. *75 knees * The gambefons appertaining to perfons of high rank were fometimes handfomely ornamented. In the Romance of Gay- don, mention is made of one that was quilted with gold f, which muft.have been very expenfive : we learn the price of thofe belong- ing to the common foldiers from Froiffart, who tells us, that John Tycle, a pourpomter%, of London, affifted the infurgents under Wat Tyler and Jack Straw with fixty pourpoints or gambefons, for which he demanded thirty marks, or twenty pounds ; of courfe it appears that they were valued fingly at fix fhillings and eight pence. When the fame rioters plundered and burnt the palace of the duke of Lancafter at the Savoy, they took his jacke, which Walfingham calls his moji precious garment §, and ftuck it upon a fpear, as a mark to moot at ; but, finding their arrows could not damage it fuffici- ently, they chopped it to pieces- with fwords and hatchets. The GORGET, or throat-piece, was worn above the gambefon beneath the hauberk, or coat of mail, by which it was totally con- cealed ; fo that its form cannot be afcertained : we learn only that it was compofed of iron or fteel, and adjufted to the neck. An au* thor, cited by Du Cange, fpeaks of gorgets of mail ||. The gorget is called a collar by Matthew Paris where mentioning the death of Ernald de Mounteney, who was flaih in a tournament at Walden : he tells us that the accident happened from the want of a collar *\ to pro- tect his throat, which was pierced by the lance of Roger de Lem- burne, his antagonift ; the lance being fharp, contrary to the cuftom upon fuch occafions, which required it to have been blunted. Daniel, in his " Hifrory of the Military Difcipline in France #*>?' fpeaks of a breaft-plate of wrought iron or fteel f f , which he affures us was worn beneath the gambefon, and cites, for his authority, a paffage from an antient poet %%, where mention is made of a com- bat that happened between William de Barres and Richard Coeur de Lion (then earl of Poiclou, but afterwards king of England). The two combatants it feems met together with fo much fury, that their lances pierced through each others buckler, coat of mail, and gam- *• C etoit un purpoint de chamois rebellion happened in the fourth year of Fara de boure /us & fous Richard the Second, anno Domini i ,81 . Un grand vilatn^ d'Anglois § Veftimentum preciofilfimum. Ifus ^ui luipendoitjujcj aux gemus. quale jacke vocamus. Tlio. Walfingham Coquillart des droits nouveaux. See Hilt Angl p ->6o ° * alfo Hiftjire de la Milice Francois per P. || XII Gorgeriae de mayllia, &c. Gloff Daniel, Lit. IV. p. 1 74 . fub voce ° r/a . y ^ on ' f S ° r lfr>™V«/orfupointurez ^ Et, car ens collario, letbaliter iA/ur Vejlrlauberc &c. vuheratus. Hift. Major, fub anno it c 2 . Roman de Gaydon MS. ** Vol I. p 28^ jL^^f^T?^ 91 * 35 th o 6 W ° rdiS + + defer ou dicier battu. Ibid; tranflated by lord Berners. See Froif- ? | Will, Brito. Fhilippidos, lib. 3. aiis Chronicle, vol. II. chap. 77. This befon 5 THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. X»AHT IV. befon, but were refitted on either fide by a plate of wrought iron worn beneath the other parts of their armour. This breaft-plate, con- tinues my author, Fauchet has forgot to mention in his defcription of the military habit ; but, after all, I fufpect it to be the fame as the gorget mentioned above, which, perhaps, might be worn beneath as well as above the gambefon. The HAUBERK, or coat of mail *. This part of the military ha- bit has already been largely treated upon in a former chapter f : there are, however, fome few general obfervations remaining to be made, which, I truft, will not "be unacceptable to my readers. The word hauberk, or, as it is ufually called in French, hauber, was fometimes ufed to exprefs the whole equipment of the mail armour that belonged to a knight ; and, according to the antient ufage in France, none were permitted to be armed from head to foot in mail, but fuch as were pofteffed of a certain eftate, called a fief de hauber. Efquires might only wear the coat of mail limply, without the fleeves, the chaperon, and the breeches ; but every other part of their mili- tary habiliments perfectly refembled thofe of the knights %. The HAUBERGEON is frequently confounded with the hauberk ; but it is certain, that there was fome material difference between them § : the former is faid to have been a coat, or jacket, compofed of mail or plate-armour, and without fleeves ||. If this definition be juft, we may conlider the haubergeon as the proper name for the ar- mour of an efquire, as the hauberk was for that which belonged to the knight ; but then it muft be obferved, that no fuch military dif- tin&ion feems to have exifted in this Country, at leaft in the days of Chaucer ; for the knight, in the Canterbury Tales, makes his ap- pearance in a gypon, or gambefon, which the poet alfures us was muck foiled by the ufe of the haubergeon^. Bertrand de Guefclin fpeaks of a warrior who rode out before the army, by way of challenge I prefume, armed with an haubergeon, over which he wore a finglaton ; and thefe, fays my author, were the arms and accoutrements which belonged by law to a champion ** : the fing- laton was a rich fpecies of furcoat or mantle. In the Rhyme of Sir Tho- pas, the haubergeon feems evidently to have been a breaft-plate, worn * It is alfo written cdberc, albergo, lum- ber g, &G. f See p. 1 1.4. % P. Daniel, at fupra. § Thus, in an antient inventory, •elated 1206, cited by Du Cange, there is ihe following article : " Quinque alber- 30ns, Ctf uuum alberc, et unum contrepointe." Gloff. in voce Alberc. || See Nr. Gough's Introduction to his Funeral Monuments, vol. I. p. 141. M fuQ^an pt toeteti a cgppon 81 Mtrtotieu toiti) t)ia fcauberaiatt. *•* - Hamyot anom Qui devant fa bataiUe venoit fur un gafcon, [la ton ; Jrmez de haubergon, covert d'un fing- Cejioit barnis urmes a loy de champion. Du Cange, in voce Cydas. under PART IV. THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. iff under the hauberk *. This word, among the Latin authors, _ is fome- times written haljberga, which is nothing more than Latinizing the Saxon word heals-beorg, the neck-guard, or breajl-platef, and proba- bly it did not differ materially from the gorget fpoken of in the pre- ceding fection. . The JAZERANT is frequently mentioned by the writers of this period ; but it appears clearly to have been only another name for the coat of mail, or, perhaps, rather for the mail itfelf : in the firft fenfe it is ufed by the author juft quoted, who, fpeaking of a war- rior engaged in battle, fays, that " his fhield and his good jazerant were both of them pierced ; but that his hauclon, or gambefon, re- fifted the blow J : fo alfo the hauberk-jazerant occurs in the Ro- mance of Gaydon ; but the expreffion, 6 < armed with noble jazerant " ufed by Guefclin, to whom we juft referred, feems to bear a more general conftruction. From the fame author we learn, that the horfes ufed in battle were fometimes covered with jazerant, or mail, as well as their riders §. Jazerants of iron, and jazerants of Jieel, are often noticed in the old inventories of armoury || ; but the former appear to have been much more generally ufed than the latter. We read alfo of veftments of double mail% which probably were confined to perfonages of high rank. The SURCOAT, or cote-armure, charged with the armorial bear- ings, appears upon the fixty-fixth plate ; and this is the earlieft ex- ample of the kind that I have met with. The figure holding a battle- axe, upon the fixty-fifth plate, is vefted with a furcoat, differing materially from any of thofe defcribed in the former part of this work : it is fitted clofer to the body, and appears to be covered with large fcales lapping over each other, but of what materials they confifted cannot eafily be afcertained : this, I prefume, is the fliell- like garment, mentioned in the Chronicle of Flanders, cited by Du Cange, which was worn over the hauberk **. The middle figure, upon the fame plate, wears a mantle, inftead of a furcoat, over his mail; but the reafon for this diftinclion I cannot determine. The cointife, which was a fpecies of furcoat, or mantle, was alfo oc- cafionally worn over the armour f f ; but, at the fame time, it feems * Snfc nejtt pis tbett an paleton, . anU otoer tpat an habergeon, jf Qt petcgnu of |)t0 |>erte ; anto otoer tf>at a fine pau&ei&e. Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. f See p. 56 of this work. + See note§, p. 174. § Bein ejloient armez de noble jazerant ; and again, Chafcun ot cheval couvert de jazerant. Du Cange, in voce Jazeran. || Jazeran de fer. — Janeran de acier. Ibid. was a rich veflure of filk, worn by perfons of opulence -}~, but not confined to any particular clafs. It appears clearly to have been ufed by military people upon certain occafions, and probably Sup- plied the place of the fur coat J. The SWORD-BELT was a neceffary part of the warrior's habili- ment ; and, at this period, it affumed a very formidable appearance. In the Saxon sera we have feen that it was frequently embellifned with gold and precious ftones § ; nor were its adornments lefs coftly, upon certain occauons, in the Succeeding centuries : I Say upon certain occafions, Sor, generally Speaking, it was made oS leather ; and it is much more frequently reprefented quite plain than otherwife. Befides the belt for the fword, the Soldier had another, which feems to have been equally requifite for the fupport of his Shield ; and this belt palled over his left Shoulder, as we See it delineated upon the forty-third, Sorty-Sourth, forty-fifth, and forty-lixth plates. The fword-belt belonging to the figure with a Ihield, upon the lixty-fifth plate, does not appear to be connected with the girdle that confines the furcoat, but a continuation of the moulder-belt,, to which the Shield is evidently attached. The HELMET. This denomination is generally ufed to exprefs the complete armour for the head, face, and neck, united, as they appeared after the introduction of the plate-armour; but no part of the Soldier's habiliment Seems to have undergone greater changes, nor to have been diftinguifhed by a greater variety of appel- lations, than the defenfive coverings for the head, which may, how- ever, all of them be confidered as different modifications of the hel- met, more or lefs perfect, as time or circumftances took place. And this cointife, the author tells us,, f It was worn by the citizens of Lon- was red, powdered with mullets of lilver. don. See p. 149. In another paflage he fpeaks of cointifes J See p. 153, and the two laft notes of filk ornamented with tijjue. Will. of that page. Guiart, Hift. Franc. MS. fub an. 1105 § See p. 61. Thus we continually and 1304. meet with " Baltbeus aureus et limiliter * See pp. 135 and 149 of this work. gemmaius" in the antient inventories. The PART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 1 79 The different forms in which the helmet made its appearance among the Saxons and Normans have already been exemplified * : it confifts of two parts, as we find it reprefented upon the iixty-fifth plate, the one moving on the other ; by this means the face might be unco- vered, to give the warrior breath, or perfectly inclofed, to defend it from the weapons of the enemy : in the firft ftate, it appears upon the head of the figure holding a fpear ; and, in the fecond, at the bot- tom of the fame plate. The helmet reprefented at the bottom of the fixty-lixth plate was calculated to defend not only the head and the face, but the neck alfo : it feems to have confifted of one entire piece, without any joint, and to have refted upon the moulders, where it was made fail to the body-armour by the two cordons attached to the hinder part of it ; when they were broken, the helmet was liable to be turned round, to the great annoyance of the wearer. An accident of this kind is defcribed in the Romance of Lancelot de Lac ; where the helmet of a knight is faid to have been fo turned, that the edges grazed upon his fhoulders, and his armour was covered with blood *}\ Several inftances occur in Froiffart, where we find that the helmet was call from the head by the lance in tilting, when the bandages were not fufficiently Itrong to refift its impulfe ; and defective bandages were fometimes purpofely ufed, as appears from the fame author to have been the cafe at a tournament, in which John of Holland, on the part of the Englilh, and Reynand de Roye, on the part of the French, were the champions: the latter had " laced and buckled j" his helmet fo ilightly to his armour, that, at every blow ftruck upon the vifor by the lance of his antagonift, it fell from his head, and therefore the lhock he fuftained was not fo great as it otherwife would have been : this artifice gave offence to the Englifh fpectators ; hut the duke of Lancafter, who was prefent among them, commended his dexterity, and faid that both of them fhould be permitted to do as they pleafed in this matter; but added that, for his part, he mould wifh to have his helmet buckled as fecurely as was poffible §. In another part of his Chronicle, Froiffart, fpeaking of the jufting between Thomas Har- pingham and Sir John de Barres, fays, " as methought the ufage was then, their helmes were tied with a lace only, to the intent that the fpears fhould take no hold ||." It has been previoufly obferved,that the helmet above-mentioned had no feparate part annexed to it which might be elevated or depreffed for the fake of air ; but this deficiency was in fome meafure fupplied by fe- * Pages 25, 58, and 118. J Lace et boucle. f Et fes hiaume efoit fi atournes ki le § Froiffart, vol. III. chap. 59. ciercles li gifoit four let efpaules & 'fes armes \\ Ibid. chap. 133. I have here fol- efttient toutes enfanglentees. lowed Lord Berners's Tranflation veral l8o THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IV. veral apertures perforated in the front ; and the higheft, which is the largeft, is called by the Latin authors ocularium, or the fight, becaufe the fight was directed through this orifice, when the helmet was buck- led upon the head. Matthew Paris records the death of a foreign no- bleman, who was {lain by a weapon being thruft through the fight of the helmet into his brain *. This fpecies of helmet feems to have been appropriated to perfons of high rank. In the delineations of the time, it is generally ornamented with florets of gold ; and fometimes we find it furmounted with the regal crown : it was alfo ufed by the nobility in their tournaments. The nafal helmet has been defcribed in a preceding chapter f; but the word nafale was alfo applied to the vifor, or beaver of the helmet ; and in this fenfe it is ufed by an antient author, cited by Du Cange, who, fpeaking of the death of the duke de Geldres, fays that'he was flain with an arrow, while incautioufly he elevated the nafale, or vifor of his helmet, for the fake of freer refpiration J. The BACINET, or Baffinet, is diftinguifhed from the helmet by William Guiart, an antient French poet § ; and this distinction feems to be perfectly juftified by the words of an hiftorian, his countryman, who probably was nearly contemporary with him : " The king," fays he, fpeaking of Philip de Valois, " appeared in his tent, habited in a tunic adorned with the arms of France, and upon his head he wore a bacinet covered with white leather || ; behind him Hood an officer, who bore his helmet, encircled with a crown, and furmounted with a fleur-de-lis ; and before him was another officer, who held his fhield and his fpear f ." We have other proofs that the bacinet was worn under the helmet ; but one, from a very antient poem intituled i( Ly Beam Defconus" may fuffice. A warrior is therein reprefented ftriking fo fevere a blow with his fword, that he pierced through the helmet and the bacinet of his antagonift, and wounded him upon the crown of his head** : Lord Berners, however, in his Tranflation of Froiflart's Chronicle, frequently gives the word helme as the Engliffi for bacinet ; and, indeed, Froiffart himfelf, in more inftances than one, ufes the French words heaume and bacinet indifcriminately. The bacinet was fometimes worn without the vifor, or covering for the face : when that appendage was added, we find it diftinguifhed by the appellation of bacinet a vifiere fif. * <* Per ocularium galea, caput ejus perforando, cerebrum effitdit" Hift. Major, fub anno 1217. f See vol I. p. 1 18. + Du Cange derives the name from the pjote&ion it afforded to the nofe ; " Na- fale quod nafum protegit." Gloff. in voce. § Li yaumes et bacinez rehire ; fub anno 12 14. || Bacinet couvert de blanc cuir. ^[ French Chronicle MS. in the Royal Library, marked 20. C. VI. . ** MS. in the Cottonian Library, marked Caligula, A. 2. -ff Et cler bacinez a vifiere — bacinez Irun'u a vifieres. Will. Guiart, fub an. 1270. The PART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. l8l The bacinet belonging to the king of France, mentioned in the preceding paffage, is limply faid to have been covered with white leather ; but Du Cange has preferved an extract from a Wardrobe Pro- vifor Roll, in which an order is given for the deviling and making of the embellhhment for a bacinet, and probably for the ufe of the fame monarch*, which was of a much more coftly kind: it runs thus; " thirty-five rings and twelve boffes or ftuds of fine gold for the front- let -f , and a crown of gold to be put upon the top of the bacinet ; the florets appertaining to the crown were to refemble the leaves of a bramble, and the circle to be checquered with fleurs-de-lis f ; the ffrap, or latchet, by which the bacinet was fattened upon the head, was to be made with rivets ornamented with boffes and little croffes of French enamail Froiffart fpeaks of the bacinet as being fattened' behind upon the head with laces ||. - The HAT, or CAP of Iron, called Cbappcl de fer and Bonnet de fer'm French, was alfo a fpecies of helmet, and probably differed but little from the bacinet. According to Hoveden, it was in ufe in this Country as early as the reign of Henry the Second ; and to this cap, or hat of iron, a vifor was occafionally affixed : it was then called Cbappel de fer a Hdjtere **. The Montauban hat of fteel, bright and mining ff, which, Froiffart tells us, the page of Charles the Sixth of France wore when riding with his mailer, was a helmet of this kind. The CERVELIERE was alfo a covering for the head, and proba- bly of the helmet kind ; at leafr, it feems to be mentioned as fuch by William Guiart, where he fpeaks of certain warriors uncovering their heads, by taking off their helmets and their cervelieres J^. The cer- veliere, according to the fame authority, was in ufe upon the Conti- nent towards the clofe of the thirteenth century ; but it does not ap- pear to have been known to the Englilh at any period, or, at leaft, that it was ever adopted by them. To the names of helmets already mentioned a modern author adds the following; the burgonet, thefalet, the fiull or hufken-cajlle, * The order is dated 1352. See the || II meit fon bacinet en fate lie, & fon ef Gloflaiy, under the word Bacinetum. cuyer le luy laca par derriere ; vol. I. t 36 ^er-velles 12 bocefes pour k fronteau, chap. 288. tout d'or de touche. ^ Capellum ferreum et lanceam. Hog. X Les flour -ons font de feuilles d'efpine, et Hoveden, fub an. 11 Si. le circle diapre de fleur-de-lys. Perhaps the ** Du Cange, Gioif. in voce Caopellus word efpine ihould be rendered thorn ra- Ferreus. ther than bramble; but the leaves of the ff Unchapelet de Montauban fin, ckr, latter reiemble the ornaments we fee up- net, tout d acier. Chron. vol. IV. chap. 4.3. . 011 the crowns of this period much more ++ Aucuns d'entre eus tejles dejnuent, de than the former : I have, however, given hyaumes & de cervelieres, &c. Guil. the original French for all the doubtful Guiart, fub an. 1297. words, and muft leave the Reader to his §§ Mr. Grofe, in his Treatife i pon own judgement. Antient Armour. § Les clous font de boufeaux & de croifet- tes de efmaille de France. 3 A the I $2 THE HABITS OP THE ANG LO-NORM ANS. PART IT- the pot, and the morion ; but of thefe I know no more than the names, and am not able to determine in what degree they differed the one from the other : it is, indeed, conjectured that they were lighter than the helmet above-defcribed, and, for that reafon, made ufe of upon fuch occafions as did not require fo ponderous a fecurity. The monumental effigies of military men, which are flill numerous in England, clearly prove that the helmets of our anceftors were fre- quently embelliihed in a very expenfive manner ; and the following general remarks are given us by a recent writer *, well acquainted -with this fubject : " The facings of the helmet are various ; over the forehead, and down the lides of the face, which may be called the frontlets and fide pieces, fome are ftudded in both parts, and fome in the frontlets only ; fome frontlets are enriched with flowers and foliage, fome are infcribed with letters, and fome have round the helmet a fillet ftudded with precious ftones -f~." In a fubfequent paf- fage he informs us, that the helmets of princes and perfonages of high rank are frequently unrounded with coronets and chaplets : to this we may add, that the helmets ufed at the tiltings and tournaments, which were exhibited, as much at leaft for (how as for fervice, were exceedingly fplendid ; they were not only adorned with facings of gold embelliihed with jewels, but often furmounted with variety of curious devices, according to the tafte and gallantry of the wearer. The COIF DE FER, or COIFE DE MAILS, for probably they differed only by name, may properly enough be called a Jkull- €aptf iron or of mail: it was worn beneath the helmet, to defend the crown of the head, in cafe the helmet itfelf fhould not be ftrong enough to refill the blows to which it might be expofed. In the Romance of Lancelot de Lac, a warrior is faid to have ftruck fo fe- vere a blow with the pommel of his fword upon the helmet of his antagonift, that he beat it in, and forced the mail of his coife% into his fkull ; and another, at one ftroke, cut through the helmet and coif de fer of his opponent, and cleft his fkull The coife de fer is called, by the Latin authors of our own coun- try, coifea ferrea || ; and it appears to have been in ufe with us as early, at leaft, as the thirteenth century ; but whether it originated here, or upon the Continent, cannot readily be afcertained. Froif- fart, defcribing a tournament, tells us, that two of the combatants * Mr. Gough, in the Preface to his Sepulchral Monuments, vol I. p. 139. f The helmet of Thomas Furnival is thus defcribed in the poetical genealogy of his family : With helmt on his head well enguere, ^ With prec ious Jlones fome tymeyt were I fette there, f Anda noble diat buncle on it doth he here, J Ibid. + Les mailles de la coife. MS. in the Royal Library at the Britilh Mufeum, marked 20. D. IV. § Ibid. || Item W. B or del lorieulam fuam aim coifea ferrea, &c. Madox, Formularc Anglicanum, p. 423. flruck PART IV. THE HABITS OP THE ANGLO-NORMANS. 183 itruck each other's helmets with fuch force, that the buckles apper- taining to the ftraps were burft afunder, and the helmets caft to the ground ; and the champions finifhed their courfe bare-headed, ex- cepting their coifes* : but thefe coifes, I apprehend, were not made of mail like thofe above-defcribed, but of cloth ; and their ufe was to prevent the head from being injured by the various motions to which it appears the helmet, in fuch cafes, was fubjecl. In a fuc- ceeding part of his work, the fame author, fpeaking of the earl of Armignac, fays that he took off his bacinet, and remained with his head uncovered, fave only with a coife of linen -f 1 . We frequently meet with an appendage belonging to the coife of mail, called the ventaille, or aventaille, which feems to have covered the neck and part of the lhoulders : there is,, however, much obicu- rity refpecting the form and the fituatton of this part of the military equipment. The aventaille is generally conlidered as another name for the vifor, or breathing part of the helmet ; but the following quotations from an antient writer will, I truft, be fufficient to prove that there was no analogy between the one and the other. In the Romance of Lancelot de Lac, Lyoniaus, one of the he- roes of the piece, having vanquilhed his antagonift in a combat, and caft him to the ground, threw back the aventaille upon his lhoulders J, and lifted up his fword to cut off his head. In a fubfequent palfage, Boors, another celebrated character, is faid to have taken his Ihield from his fhoulder, his helmet from his head, and to have thrown the aventaille fo far back, that his head was quite uncovered I fhall add but one citation more, from the fame authority ; where a warrior, fpeaking of himfelf and his attendants upon their travels, fays, " Having taken off our helmets, we caft back our aventailles ||, and laid ourfelves down to repofe beneath the ihade of the green trees." We learn from the foregoing pafTages that the aventaille was no part of the helmet ; that, after the helmet was taken from the head, it was neceffary for it to be thrown back, be- fore the head could be readily fevered from the body ; and that it was deprefled for the fake of eafe, when it could be done with fafety : thefe circumftances, being conlidered, lead me to conclude that the aven- taille was that part of the mail-armour which appears under the chin of the knight reprefented upon the lixty-lixth plate of this work ; it paffes on either fide of the neck, and is attached to the coife de mail : this figure is reprefented without his helmet ; and it is evident that * Coeffes, rendered coyves in lord Ber- § OJIe fan efcu, fon hiaume, & Ji li ners's Tranflation. FrohTart's Chronicle, abat 1'aventaille tant he la tiefle remejl toute vol. III. chap. 49. nue. Ibid. f Coife detoilie. Ibid. vol. IV. chap. 25. || Oftes nos hiaumes, & ties ventailles X Le abat 1'aventaille four les efpaules, abatues, &c. Ibid. &c. MS. in the Royal Library, marked so. D, IV. thefe 184 THE HABITS OF THE ANGLO-NORMANS. PART IV. thefe appendages muft be deprelTed, before the neck of the warrior could be expofed to the fword of his antagonift : it is alfo a very na- tural fuppofition, that the removal of fo ftrait an envelopement would be greatly conducive to the refrelhment of the wearer, and particu- larly requilite when he was inclined to enjoy the comforts of repofe. The GLOVES of mail appertaining to the antient warriors were attached to the fleeves of the hauberk, and the extremities were fometimes divided into feparate parts for the thumb and the lingers, as they appear upon the forty-fifth and forty-fixth plates : on the contrary, they are reprefented without any divifions for the fingers upon the forty-fourth plate ; and the fame is more particularly ex- prefTed upon the fixty-fixth plate, where an opening is made at the palm, fufficiently extenfive for the hand to pals through, fo that the whole of the covering might be caft backward over the wrift, and the hand left at perfect liberty, as it appears upon the middle figure of the fixty-fifth plate. The gauntlets, feparated from the lleeves of the mail, may be feen upon the fame plate, where the Reader is re- ferred to the figure holding a fpear; but, as thefe bear the appear- ance of plate-armour, they will be mentioned more particularly at a future period. I fhall conclude this chapter with the following concife defcriptioa of the ceremonies ufed at the creation of a knight as far back as the twelfth century, cited by Daniel * from an author who lived at the timcf: <£ When Geoffrey duke of Normandy was knighted, his arms were brought to him, and he was invefted with an incomparable coat of mail J, wrought with double chains or links § of iron fo clofely interwoven, that it was impenetrable to the point of the fpear or the arrow; the chaulTes, or boots || of mail, made alfo in like manner with double chain-work, were then given to him ; and a pair of gilt fpurs were put on his feet : this done, a fhield was hung upon his neck, ornamented with lions of gold ; an helmet, richly deco- rated with precious ftones, and fo well tempered that no fword could make any impreffion upon it, was fet upon his head; a lance was then brought to him, made of oak, and furmounted with a head; of iron of Poiclou ; and, laftly, a fword from the Royal Treafury.'* * Hiftoire de la Milice Francois, vol. I. % Lorica incomparabili. lib. vi p. 280. § Maculis. + Le Moine de Mairemontier. || Bottes ou chauffes* END OF THE NORMAN JERA. A COMPLETE VIEW OP THE DRESS AND HABITS OP THE PEOPLE of ENGLAND, FROM THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE SAXONS IN BRITAIN TO THE PRESENT TIME. PART V. The Civil, Military, and Ecclefiaftical, Habits of the En- gliiTi, from the clofe of the Fourteenth to the Commence- ment of the Seventeenth Centuries. CHAP. I. Great Improvement made in the Clothing Arts by Edward the Third. — The various Acts of Parliament relating _ to the Exportation of Wool, &c. and Sheep alive. — Privileges of the Clothiers and Weavers. — Statutes relative to the Length and Breadth of Cloth. — Ruffe I Satins and Fujlians; when made in England. — The Abufes praclifed by the Importers of Foreign Fufiians. — Ails refraining Abufes in the Ma- king. Fulling, Dying, and Vending, of Woollen Cloths. — Silk ; when firjl manufactured in England not known ; fabricated by Women only-, its Progrefs. — Linen- Cloth chiefly imported. — Various Kinds of Cloths ufed in England, and where made. — Lace and Button-Makers'' Arts. — The Furriers'* Art, and the different Furs ufed in England. — The Shearmen's Complaints redrejfed by Parliament. WE may, with great propriety, place the commencement of the Englifh sera at the clofe of the thirteenth century ; the differences between the Saxon and the Norman cuftoms and ha- bits being at that period fo perfectly reconciled, and fo completely blended y that it would be abfurd to attempt a feparate inveftigation, 3 B We i86 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PAR.T V. We have feen already the improvements made in the clothing ma- nufactories under the Norman government * ; and it appears that no inconsiderable part of their productions were exported to foreign countries ; but at the fame time it muft be obferved, that thefe im- provements were by no means carried to fo great an extent, as the advantages pofTeffed by the people of this kingdom would admit of : they continued to export their fleece-wool in great quantities, and do not appear to have formed any juft eftimation of the accumulated benefits arifing from the manufacturing of that article at home, in- ftead of having recourfe to foreign markets for a fupply of fine cloths ; which was, however, the true ftate of the cafe. The inha- bitants of Flanders and of the Netherlands had long been in the habit of making the finefl: woollen cloths, and amafTed much wealth by their induftry: the Englifh, on the other hand, furnifhed them with the beft part of the materials that they ufed, without the leaft degree of emulation or defire to place themfelves in competition with them. Edward the Third was the firft of our monarchs who faw this circum- ftance in its right point of view, and, confident of the vaft advan- tages that might be derived from the improvement of our woollen manufactories, exerted all his authority, joined with that of the par- liament, to place them upon a footing equal, if not fuperior, to thofe abroad. To accomplifh this important undertaking with more celerity, he held out great encouragements to induce the weavers of fo- reign countries to emigrate and fettle in England. So early as the ntth year of his reign, John Kempe,aFlemifh woollen-manufacturer of great repute, came into this country with all his workmen and apprentices : the reception he met with from the king was fo favourable, that, in the fame year, no fewer than feventy families of the Walloons followed liis example, and were equally well received ; thefe again were fuc- •ceeded by many others during the continuance of the reign of king Edward The people of England in general, and particularly the native weavers, did not immediately perceive how beneficial thefe improve- ments would be, but, on the other hand, confldered the great influx of foreigners, and the protection afforded to them, as an infringe- ment upon their natural rights and privileges : nor was this jealoufy in the leaft diminilhed, when they faw the alien artifts fettled in al- moft every town in England, and thriving by their ikill : the Lon- doners efpecially ftood forward to manifeft their diflike, and carried their refentment fo far, as to infult and mal-treat the foreigners, and to keep them in continual fear for their fafety ; the king, in order to put a ftop to thefe unlawful proceedings, iillied a mandate to the * See page 89. f Rymeri Foedera, torn. V. pp. 496, 723, 751. mayor PAK.T V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 1 87 mayor and fherifFs of London, to apprehend every perfon who fhould give the lean: difturbance to the foreign clothiers, to commit them to the prifon of Newgate, and to remit their names to him, that they might be punifhed according to his pleafure # . By the operation of the laws made in favour of the clothing arts, joined with other concomitant circumftances, the number of the people employed in thofe arts, and the fkill with which they were carried into execution, gradually increafed ; and, in the fifteenth cen- tury, the manufactories were multiplied and eftablifhed in England upon a permanent balls ; their productions were highly efteemed in the foreign markets, and they proved to this country a continual fource of wealth and profperity : even in the fucceeding civil com- motions, which fo awfully fhook the ftate, the contending parties feem to have been unanimous in their protection of the cloth-makers. The people at large had long difcovered the utility of working their wool at home, and were convinced that it was much more lucrative, as an article of exportation, when made into cloth, than in the fleece ; and thefe connderations probably induced them to treat the foreigners, to whofe affiftance thefe advantages were chiefly owing, with more refpect. In the eighth year of Henry the Fourth, a petition- was prelented to the king in parliament, praying, that the alien weavers reliding within the city of London might be incorporated into the guild of the Englifh weavers, and be made fubject to the fame regu- lations and corrections -f~ ; which was granted. But, to return to king Edward ; who fpared no encouragement for the advancement of the clothing manufacturers, and, being convinced of the advantages derived from the foreign cloth- makers already efla- blimed in England, was delirous of increaling their numbers ; and accordingly, in the eleventh year of his reign, the following ftatute was fanctioned by the authority of parliament J : <£ It is alfo agreed, that all the cloth-workers §, of foreign countries, without any ex- ception, who will come into England, Ireland, Wales, or Scotland, within the king's dominions ||, fhall come with fafety and fecurity, under the protection and fafe conduct of the king, and fhall have leave to dwell in any part of the fame lands that fhall pleafe them ; and, for the farther encouragement of the faid workmen to come and reflde here, the king will grant them privileges as many and fuch as fhall give them fatisfaction ^[." To this were fubjoined four other * Dated A. D. 1344. $ Oevrours des draps. Ibid. f DeJ/ous meme le governaunce ei cot- || Et efcofe deinz le poair {literally power) reclion de les dits 'weavers Angleis, Rot. nrjlre feignur le roi , Ibid. Pari. 8 Hen. IV. ^[ Franchifes t antes & tieles qu les fuf- % Held at Weftminfter Sept. 27, 1337. front. Ibid. Ruffhead, Statutes at Large, vol. I. p. 221. Hatutes, 1 88 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. ftatutes, eftablimed by the fame authority, and equally falutary : the firft prohibited the exportation of wool in the fleece during the pleafure of the king and his council, and the infringement of this ftatute was made felony ; the fecond confined the wearing of foreign cloth to the king and the royal family, and commanded all other per- fons, whatever their rank might be, to ufe no cloth fox their ap- parel but fuch as was made within the king's dominions, under pe- nalty of forfeiting the cloth fo ufed, and to be farther puniftied at the king's pleafure ; the third prohibited the importation of all fo- reign cloth, under the like penalties ; and the fourth permitted the cloth-workers to make their cloths, without the leaft reftraint, as long or as fhort as they thought proper * : this privilege, I prefume, was foon abufed ; for, we find the indulgence remonftrated againft, and reftrained to a determinate meafure, in the fiftieth year of the reign of this monarch -f-. There is reafon to believe that the three prohi- bitory ftatutes juft recited, and efpecially that concerning apparel, were never rigoroufly enforced ; yet it is abundantly evident, from the great improvements made in the clothing arts immediately after- wards, that they were of effential fervice. The ftatute retraining the exportation of wool was left to the modifications of the king and his council, to be permitted or prohibited partially or totally, as the exi- gency of the circumftances thereunto relating required: we find, for inftance, that, three years after the eftablifhment of this law, a fubfidy was granted to the king of every ninth lamb and every ninth fleece, and a fubfidy upon all wool and wool-felts exported J ; but the prohibition itfelf, in procefs of time, was frequently eluded by the merchants, who caufed great quantities of wool to be fpun into yarn, and exported it in that condition : this practice occalioned an act to be made in the fiftieth year of Edward the Third, forbidding the exportation of woollen yarn §, under the penalty of forfeiting the fame. In the thirty-third year of the reign of Henry the Eighth, it was neceffary to revive this act:, and to re- * Ruffhead, ut fnpra. f In the 38th of Edward the Third, a petition was prefented to parliament, praying, that the Englifh cloth of ray might be made of the fame length and breadth as that manufactured at Ghent. \ The fubfidy of the ninth lamb and the ninth fleece was confidered as a hard/hip by the people; which occa- fioned a grant from the king, fpecifying, that it fhould be no example to the pre- judice of his fubje&s, and that the whole amount of the moneys thence arifing fhould absolutely be fpent in the mainte- nance and Safeguard of his kingdom of England, and the fupport of the wars in Scotland, France, and Gafcoiny. Ruff- head, vol. I. p. 2.31. — Here we may alfo add a grant, confirmed by parliament in the 36th year of Edward the Third, per- mitting the merchants denizens to ex- port their wool for the fpace of one year ; and a like grant in the 5th year of Ri- chard the Second for one year, which extended to the aliens ; alfo for the ex- portation of wool-felts and leather. Ruffhead, vol. I. pp. 304 and 357. § File de layne appelle wolyn yerne. Rot. Pari. A. D. 1376. peat PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND'. 1 89 peat it, with fome additional reftrictions, in the thirty- feventh year of the fame reign ; and, in the firft year of Edward the Sixth, it was confirmed and made perpetual # . In the third year of Henry the Fifth, it was enacted that all wool-felts fent out of England, Wales, or Ireland, to any place but Calais, fhould be forfeited, with the ad- dition of their value in money, excepting fuch as were fhipped by the merchants of Genoa -f-, Venice, Tufcany, Lombardy, Florence, and Catalona, and by the burgeffes of the town of Berwick upon Tweed : this act was confirmed in the fourteenth year of Henry the Sixth ; and, in the eighteenth year of the fame king's reign, it was made felony to export wool or wool-felts to any place but Calais, excepting fuch as fhould pais the ftraits of Gibraltar J. By an act made in the third year of Edward the Fourth, all aliens were reftrained from the expor- tation of wool, which was allowed to the denizens only, but with cer- tain ordinances to be obferved refpecting the fame; The reftriction was again made general by a ftatute eftabliihed in the twelfth year of Charles the Second, and confirmed and farther enforced in the firft year of king William and queen Mary The merchants, it feems, however, carried on a kind of contra- band trade with the woollen yarn, after the prohibition above-men- tioned, which is thus related in the preamble to an act, made in the eighth year of Henry the Sixth, for reftraining the exportation of woollen thrums : "The weavers are accuftomed, when they have wrought a cloth near to the end, to cut away, for their private profit, the threads which remain unwoven, which they call thrums, to the great detriment of the owners of the fame cloth ; which thrums they fell to the foreign merchants ; and, under the colour of fuch thrums, large quantities of woollen thread, called woollen yarn, is fent out of the realm, to the great defrauding of the yearly cuftoms and fubiidies belonging to the king ||." The exportation of live fheep, in order to avoid the fubfidies to which the fleeces were fubject, was alfo much practifed by the gra- ziers : they are faid to have been carried in great numbers out of Engr- land into Fla'nders and other countries. On this occafion an act was made, in the third year of Henry the Sixth, prohibiting the ex- porting of rams, fheep, or lambs alive, either with their fleeces, or fhorn, without the king's licence, under the penalty of forfeiting the fame, or the value thereof ^[ ; and this act was confirmed, and en- forced with very fevere penalties, in the eighth year of queen Eli- zabeth ; by which the fecond offence was made felony **. * Ruffhead, vol. I. p. 316. ■f Jean in the original. % The ftraits of Marrock in the ori- ginal, for Morocco. Iluffhead., vol. IX. Appendix, pp. 61, 71, 74. § Ibid. vol. III. pp. 203, 436, || Ibid. vol. I. p.. 555. % Ibid. p. 532. ** A. D. 1565, cap. in. 3 C Th e I90 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART 'V. The exportation of wool, at the time it was granted, was attended with very heavy duties ; on the other hand, the importation of the fame was permitted free of all duty % and efpecially of fuch wools as came from Spain, which are neceffary for the manufacturing of fine cloths. Before I take my leave of this fubject, I fhall juft mention an excellent law that was made in the fourteenth year of Richard the Second ; by which it is commanded, " that no denizen of England fhall purchafe wool, but from the poffeffors of the fheep, openly, at the ftaple ; and that no wool Ihould be regrated •}<•". The privileges granted to the cloth-makers by Edward the Third and his fucceffors were clogged with very few reftraints ; and thofe were fuch only as were abfolutely neceffary to prevent the impoft- tion to which the fabrication of cloth was liable, and deceit in the meafure : neither were the advantages derived from thefe falutary acts confined to any particular places, or companies of workmen ; in cities, and corporate towns, it is probable that the occupation of the weaver was reftricted to fuch perfons as had ferved a regular appren- ticefhip to the bufinefs ; but, out of thefe privileged places, any man of opulence might eftablifh a clothing-manufactory, and vend the produce of it for his own private emolument. The extent of this liberty, efpecially in the infancy of the clothing art, muft cer- tainly have been exceedingly beneficial ; not only becaufe of the fpirit of emulation it would naturally promote for the improvement of the manufactures, but alfo becaufe of the quantities of cloth it occafioned to be brought to the markets ; by which means the prices were reduced to the confumers. In fome inftances, it is true, this general good might be a partial evil ; as fuch, we find it complained of by the inhabitants of the city of Worcefter, and the towns of Evelham, Droitwich, Kidderminfter, and Broomfgrove; who, in a petition preferred to parliament in the twenty-fifth year of the reign of Henry the Eighth, fpecified, that they had been heretofore chiefly fupported by the clothing-manufactories kept within the faid city and towns, but were now much injured and impoverifhed by the farmers, graziers, and hufibandmen, who occupied the myfteries of cloth-working, weaving, fulling, and (hearing, within their own houfes, and made all manner of cloths, as well broad-cloths, whites, and plain, as cloths of various colours. To relieve them, an act of par- liament was then paffed, prohibiting any cloths to be made for fale within the county of Worcefter, but fuch as fhould be manufactured = in the city of Worcefter and the towns above-mentioned ; excepting only, that every perfon had permiffion to make cloth for his own ufe * See the Table of Rates, Ruffhead, f A. D. 15905 Ruffhead, vol. I. vol. III. p. 159. p. 397- and "PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. I91 ^.nd the ufe of his family *. This partial refraction, was made gene- ral by another a&, eftablifhed in the fifth year of Edward the Sixth, in which it is declared, that 44*; aI * d 445- * A ' D ' l6o $' . IQn PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. 1 99 in length, in breadth fix quarters, and every piece fhall weigh fixty- lix pounds ; and the half-piece, called dozens, fhall be made and wrought after the fame rate in every refpect. Broad-lifted whites and reds, manufactured in Wiltfhire, Glou- cefterfhire, Oxfordfhire, and the Eaftern limits of Somerfetfhire, called f-rting-pack broad-lifted cloths, fhall run in length from twenty- fix to twenty-eight yards, in breadth fix quarters and a half, and every cloth fhall weigh lixty-four pounds. Narrow-lifted whites and reds, made in the fame counties, called Jorivig-pack cloths, fhall contain the fame length and breadth as the broad-lifted cloths, and every white cloth fhall weigh fixty-one pounds, and every red cloth fixty pounds. Fine clcth made in the fame counties fhall contain in length from twenty-nine to thirty-two yards, in breadth fix quarters and a half, and weigh feventy-two pounds. All cloths with ftop-lifts, and not plain lifts, fhall be limited to the fame weight and meafure as the cloths manufactured in the city of Worcefter. Broad cloths, called Tauntons, Bridgewaters, and Dunflers, made in the Weftern parts of Somerfetfhire, fhall run from twelve to thirteen yards in length, feven quarters in breadth, and weigh thirty pounds the piece. Narrow cloths of the like fort fhall be made with a narrow lift, and contain from twenty to twenty-five yards in length, one yard in breadth, and weigh thirty pounds ; the half-cloth ihall be the fame in breadth, and proportionable with refpect to its weight and length. All broad cloths of like kind, manufactured in Yorkfhire, whites or reds, fliall be of the fame length, breadth, and weight, as thofe made in Somerfetfhire ; and the narrow cloths fhall be the fame in breadth, but in length only from feventeen to eighteen yards, and the weight, of courfe, in proportion to the length. Ordinary pewfiones, called Forejl whites, fhall contain from twelve to thirteen yards in length, in breadth five quarters and a half, and weigh twenty-eight pounds. Sorting peniftones fhall run from thirteen to fourteen yards in length, iix quarters and a half in breadth, and every piece fliall weigh thirty- five pounds. Ordinary kerfies fhall run twenty-four yards in length, and weigh twenty- eight pounds the piece. Sorting kerfies fhall be of the fame length as the ordinary kerfies, and weigh thirty-two pounds each piece. Devonfhire kerfies, called dozens, fhall contain from twelve to thirteen yards in length, and weigh thirteen pounds the piece. Kerfies, 200 HABITS OF THE PEOFLE OF ENGLAND. PART V. Kerfies, called majhers or wafh-whites, made in the city of York, the town of Lancafter, or elfewhere, being half-thickened, ihall run from feventeen to eighteen yards ; and, one quarter thickened, from eighteen to nineteen yards in length, and every piece fhall weigh feventeen pounds. The breadth of all the kernes above-mentioned is not fpecified in the aft ; but probably it was the fame as of thofe that follow. Check kerfies, Jlraits, and plain greys, fhall run from feventeen to eighteen yards in length, one yard in breadth, and every piece fhall weigh twenty-four pounds. If any kerfies fhall be found deficient in the length eftablifhed by this act, a proportionable allowance for fuch deficiency fhall be made in the weight, after the rate of one pound three ounces to the yard for every ordinary kerfey, and one pound three ounces and a half for every forting kerfey. All cloth made with flocks, thrums, and lambs' wool, mall be dif- tinguifhed by a lift of black yarn on the one fide, and a felvage only upon the other, and every piece fhall contain from twelve to thirteen yards in length, one yard in breadth, and weigh fifteen pounds. All cogwares, kendal cloths, and carptmeals, were freed from any reftriction by this act, and might be made of any length or breadth that would beft fuit the convenience of the maker, or the pleafure of the purchafer. The meafurements ordained by this act, like thofe fpecified in the foregoing, were to be made when the cloth was thoroughly wet, and the breadth was to be taken between the lifts ; but they were not to be weighed until they were fcoured, milled, and perfectly dry It is commanded by the above acts, that the clothiers timid not exceed the meafurements therein fpecified ; yet, as fome flight vari- ations might at times be unavoidable, a ftatute followed the firft of thefe acts, and remained unrepealed at the time the fecond was made ; by which they might be relieved, when it plainly appeared that there 1 was no fraud intended by fuch variations. The ftatute alluded to was eftablifhed in the fixth year of Edward the Sixth, and runs thus : " Provyded alwaies, that, yf any brode clothe fhall excede the feve- ral lengthes before appoynted for every county, or kynde of making, by meanes of the finetiV, or the good, perfecte, and fturTye makyng of the fame clothe ; then the maker thereof fhall not encurre any lofs or penaltie for the over-length of any fuch fyne clothe, any thing herein to the contrary in any wyfe notwithstanding -J--." * An. 3 Jacobi I. A. D. 1605 j Ruff- f Statutes of Edward VI. printed by head, voL III. pp. 64, 65, 66. -Grafton forThomasBertheletjLond. 1553. In PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 2,01 In the twentieth year of the reign of king Henry the Sixth, a complaint was addreffed to parliament againft certain of the clothiers of the city of Norwich, by which they were charged with the " un- true making of all manner of worfteds," not only refpecting their length and breadth, but alfo in regard to the materials with which they were fabricated ; and an act was then patted, by which it was ordained that a proper infpecYion mould be made into the manu- facturing of fuch articles, and that they fhould be regulated in their different meafurements according to the antient cuftom ; that is to fay, the beds of worfted of the " raoft affize" fhould be full fourteen yards in length, and four yards in breadth, throughout the piece; the beds of the " meane or middle affize" fhould be twelve yards in length at leaft, and three yards in breadth ; and the beds of the " leaft affize" mould be ten yards in length, and two yards and a half in breadth, at leaft, throughout the piece. The worfteds, called monks cloths, fhould contain full twelve yards in length, and in breadth five quarters of a yard at the leaft ; thofe denominated channon cloths Ihould be five yards long, and feven quarters broad ; and fuch as were known by the fimple name of cloths fhould contain fix yards in length, and two yards at the leaft in breadth. Double worjleds * ihould run ten yards in length, and five quarters in breadth ; the demi-doubles fix yards in length, and five quarters in breadth ; and roll-worjleds fhould extend to thirty yards in length, and in breadth a full half yard f . Knit worjleds for waiftcoats, of Englifti manufa&ory, are mentioned in the Book of Rates eftabliftied in the twelfth year of Charles the Second. The Reader has feen, in the foregoing pages, a general view of the productions from the Englifh woollen manufactories ; and, before I quit this part of my fubject, I wifh to fpeak a little particularly re- flecting one or two other articles equally important : they are, it is true, the produce of more modern times, and, for that reafon, not included in the regulations juft recited. In the firft year of Philip and Mary +, it was reprefented to the parliament, that, of late years, ruffelh, called rujfel fitins and fatins reverfes, had been made abroad from the wools bred in the county of Norfolk, and, being brought into this kingdom, were pure hafed and worn, to the great detriment of the wool- manufactures at Norwich ; * Double worjleds (demy-doubles), and Jingle worfted, none of the other worfteds ftriped or motley worfted (worfted raiz were included. Ruffhead, vol. I. p. oh motlez), were prohibited exportation, 410. ,-,„'. -n-, , tt 1 • r by a ftatute made 17 Ric. II, under f Rot. Pari. MS. in Bibl. Harl. infig. the pain of forfeiture; but boltes of fin- 7074. gle ivorftede might be fent out of the % A. D. 1^4. kingdom, provided, under the colour of 2 F which 202 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V, which induced feveral of the opulent inhabitants of that city, to the number of twenty-one, to encourage certain of the "foreign workmen to come to Norwich, where they were fet to work, and had inftructed others ; fo that, at the time the petition was prefented, there were made in the fame city better ruffel latins and fatin reveries, and alfo fuftians in imitation of the fujiians of Naples, than had been re- ceived from abroad, and the makers were enabled to fell them at much lower rates; they therefore petitioned for fome 4 £ good and politic laws," to be fanctioned by parliament, for the encouragement and continuance of the making fuch articles, and to prevent their being " badly and deceitfully manufactured, to the detriment of the public." The petition was granted ; and thefe articles were after- wards called by the names of Norwich Jatins, and Norwich fujiians *. Before this laudable undertaking was accomplifhed by the citizens of Norwich, the fuftians ufed in this kingdom were brought from other countries ; but, after the eftablilhment of the above manufac- tures, the importation of foreign fuftians was difcountenanced ; and we find by the book of rates, as it flood in the time of Charles the Second, that a duty of no lefs than eight pounds was impofed upon every piece of fuftian -j~ manufactured abroad and brought into this country. The foreign fuftian is faid to have been exceedingly ftrong, and, for that reafon, well calculated for the ufe of the lower claffes of peo- ple, who could not afford to purchafe new garments very frequently. Various articles of drefs were made from this profitable commodity ; and more efpecially jackets and doublets, which, in the fifteenth cen- tury, were grown into very common ufage. We learn, from a peti- tion prefented to the parliament in the eleventh year of Henry the Seventh, that thefe fuftians were imported in the rough ; and that certain perfons, in order, I prefume, to fave the expence of having them properly Ihorn, had invented inftruments of iron ^ to effect that purpofe, but which, it feems, by being drawn over the cloth, tore up the nap and the cotton, and brake the ground and the threads afunder. Thefe defects they had the art to conceal, by " craftily fleeking the faid fuftians fo as to make them appear to the common people fine, whole, and found." They had alfo a method of railing the cotton, and lingeing it with the flame of a candle, to anfwer the fame purpofe ; the cloth was afterwards coloured and drefled with fuch fkill, that none but a competent judge could difcover the fraud. The confequence was, that the fuftians * Ruffhead, vol. III. p. 485. + The petition, ftates, that thefe in- f The piece confifted of two half- ftruments of iron were kept in the high- pieces, each of which ufually contained eft and moft fecret parts of the houfes of jfifteen yards. Ibid. p. 154, thofe who uied them. were PART V. HABITS OP THE FEOPLE OE ENGLAND. were really fpoiled ; for it is ftated, that the doublets made with them would not " endure whole by the fpace of four months fearcely ;" whereas thofe manufactured from fuftians, fheared by the fhearmen, " were wont to endure the fpace of two years and more." This petition was granted ; and an act eftablifhed, impofing the pe- nalty of twenty millings for every offence of that kind *. The evil, however, was totally done away by the introduction of the fuftian manufactories at Norwich. Having laid before my Readers a general outline of the privileges granted to the cloth-workers, and the improvements made by them, efpecially in the woollen manufactures, I mall proceed to notice briefly fome abufes which required the interposition of the legtila- ture to correct, not only in the making of cloth, exclusive of the deficiencies in length, breadth, and weight, which the statutes already recited provided against, but alfo in the fulling, dying, and ex- poling the fame to fale. Antiently the cloths made at Norwich, denominated worfteds and oldhams, were fold unfairly ; the merchant reckoning thirty yards to the piece which, in reality, . contained no more than twenty-five ; fo that the purchafer paid for five yards more than he received : the remedies for this abufe we have already feen. In the thirteenth year of Richard the Second, a complaint was ex- hibited to the parliament, Itating, that divers plain cloths,, wrought in the counties of Somerfet, Dorfet, and Gloucester, were " tacked and folded together," before they were expofed to fale j and that fuch cloths were generally defective, within, being broken and da- maged, and not agreeing in. colour or breadth with the outside, but falfely wrought with divers kind of wools. To obviate this hard- fhip, it was ordained that no cloth fhould be expofed to fale without being untacked and opened, fo that the purchafer might fairly exa- mine the fame ; and that the weavers and fullers fhould annex their feals to every piece of cloth that was worked by them Thefe falutary precautions, however, do not appear to have produced the desired effect ; for, the grievances exhibited in the foregoing com- plaint were increafed to fuch a degree towards the middle of the. fifteenth century, that the. fale of the woollens manufactured in the * Statutes of Henry VII. printed A.D. in the cloth, as well as to annex his feal 1^53. p. 194. thereto, ibid. p. 4765 et vol. II. p. 231. f Ruffhead, vol. I. p. 388. — The pe- — However, any faulty cloth might be nalty was the forfeiture of the cloth expofed to fale without incurring the pe- made or fold contrary to the injunction nalty of thefe ftatutes, provided it was. of the ad. — It Avas repeated an. 11 Hen. acknowledged to be fo, and diftinguifhed VI; and, again, with an additional claufe, by a feal of lead with the letter F thereon an. 27 Hen. VIII, compelling every engraved, clothier to caufe his mark to be weaved> county 204 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART V. county of Norfolk was greatly diminifhed, and efpecially in the foreign markets : the realbns are fully exprefled in the following petition, prefented to Henry the Sixth in parliament ; which, be- ing diverted of its antient orthography, runs thus: " Whereas, at the city of Norwich, as well as in the county of Norfolk, there are divers perfons that make untrue ware of all manner of worfteds, not being of the affizes in length and breadth as they mould be, and were of old time accuftomed to be; and that the llayes and yarn thereunto belonging are untruly made and wrought, in great deceit as well of your denizens as of the ftrangers repairing to this your noble realm, that buy and ufe fuch merchandize, trufting that it were within as it fheweth outwards, when in truth it is the contrary ; and, whereas worfted was fome time fair merchandize, and greatly defired and refpected in the parts beyond the fea ; now, becaufe it is of untrue making, and of untrue ItufF, no man fetteth thereby ; which is of great harm and prejudice unto your true liege people : They therefore pray, that proper infpection may be made into the manufacturing of fuch goods, and that they .may be re- gulated according to the antient cuftom." This petition was granted to the full extent, and the proper affizes or meafurements as- certained *. The practice of mixing fine wool with wools of inferior qualities, alluded to in the above fpecification, appears to have been very pre- valent among the clothiers: the productions of their looms may, therefore, juftly be faid to have been " wrought in great deceit;" for, by this abominable fraud the real value of the cloth was greatly depreciated, though at the fame time it was charged to the purchafer at the full price. The interference of the legiflature was necefTary^to remedy this evil ; and, in the act juft referred to, a claufe was in- ferted, forbidding the fabrication of cloth with mixed wools of dif- ferent qualities: the inferior wools are there ftated to be iambs' wool, flocks, and pell-wool -\~. In a fubfequent ftatute, hair is alfo added Thefe acts were repealed in the twenty-feventh year of queen Eliza- beth ; and flocks, hair, and yarn made of lambs' wool, were per- mitted to be put into the cloths called plain while Jlraits, and pinned white Jlraits, made in Devonfhire ; but, in fixteen years' time, it was found neceffary to renew the prohibitory ftatutes, and confine the cloth-makers to the ufage of wools unmixed with any of inferior forts, or with any other thing of deceitful quality ||. It was, however, at all times lawful for them to make cloth with the inferior wools with- out any mixture, providing fuch cloth was properly marked and * Rot. Pari. an. 20 Hen. VI. X An - 4 Edw - VI > Ruffhead, vol. II. * f The penalty was the forfeiture of p. 443. the cloth. Ibid. II An. 43 Eliz.j ibid. p. 741. charged PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 205 charged accordingly *. And even faulty cloths might be expofed to fale without incurring any penalty, if they were acknowledged to be io, and a proper allowance made to the purchafer in proportion to the defects -J~. It was alfo ordained, that no cloth lhould be hot- prefled to conceal the faults, but brought to market from the cold prefs only J ; and, perhaps, itwas for the fame reafon, that no perfon was permitted to calender worfteds, ftamins, or fays, or any other commodities made of worfted, who died the fame .The foregoing ftatutes required, as we have feen indeed in part, that cloth of every kind mould be fairly manufactured, perfect through- out in the workmanfhip, of the fame texture, and without " full- ing, knoting, or burling." It might not be overftrained, to give it the appearance of greater length and breadth than it ought to have ; nor made to deceive the fight, by putting flour of ftarch or chalk upon it, that it might feem to be whiter and thicker than it really was || . The exportation of woollen cloths, not previoufly fulled, was pro- hibited by an antient law, becaufe the duty impofed upon them was not to be collected until they had undergone that operation f . There were two methods by which the fulling of cloth was per- formed : the firft and molt obvious was with the hands and feet; the other, which feems to have been the invention of modern times, was with fulling-flocks **, worked by the means of a mill. The raoft an- tient method was efteemed the beft, and that for a long time after the; introduction of the mills, which occafioned many complaints, and were at laft totally prohibited towards the clofe of the fifteenth cen- tury *J~J-. All broad cloths that had pafTed under the dier's hands were ob- liged to be well watered, previous to their being expofed to fale, to prove that the colours would Hand. Among the foreign drugs that were ufed in dying, and mentioned in the Statutes, we meet with * The cloth made with hair, floch., every piece of cloth Ihould be marked thrumt, ox lambs wool, was to be lifted with the letter E. with a black lift and felvedge. An. ^ An. 50 Edw. Ill 5 Ruffhead, vol. I. 43 Eliz.j Ruft'head, vol. II. p. 66. p. 382. f It was alfo necelfary, that it Ihould ** Thus an antient poet: be diftinguiihed by a feal of lead with Cloth that commeth from the weaving is not the letter F engraved thereon. Ibid. comely to wear, P- 444-, Till it be fulled under fote, or infullyng flocks ; X l^'id. p. 445. Wajben nvell us fome idea of the quality of the materials that compofed great part of their drefs, but becaufe the prices are annexed to the feverai articles therein fpecified. The firft .contains but few pieces and remnants of cloth, left in the royal wardrobe at the death of Henry the Fifth -f~, which I fhall fet down as they ftand in the inven- * The plunkets were al fo called vervifes, j Rot. Pari. 3 Hen. VI. MS at the tujk 'ms, and celejlines : the latter appear Britifh Mufeuni, marked 7074. 4o have been diftinguiftied by broad lifts. tory; FART HABTTS OP THE FEOPLE OF ENGLAND. tory : a piece of baudekyn of purple filk, valued at thirty-three Shil- lings and four pence ; a piece of white baudekyn of gold, at twenty fhillings the yard ; a piece of velvet upon velvet of gold, of purple co- lour, at fifty fhillings the yard ; a piece of velvet upon fatin of Alex- andrine work of gold, at five and forty fhillings the yard ; a piece of crimfon velvet tiffued with gold, fifty fhillings the yard; feven yards of red camlet,, at thirteen fhillings and four pence the remnant ; four- teen yards of fendal de trifle, fixteen fhillings and eight pence ; feven yards of damafk, fixty-fix fhillings and eight pence ; feveral remnants of white, green-, rufet, and piped tartarin, at two fhillings the yard. The next inventory is of the wardrobe of Edward the Fourth, taken in the twentieth year of his- reign * ; and therein fcarlet cloth is eftimated from feven to eight millings the yard ; violet in grain, from eleven to thirteen millings and four pence ; a cloth called French black, from five fhillings and four pence to thirteen and four pence ;- rapt cloth, at fix fhillings ; murrey and blue cloth, at three fhillings and four pence the yard ; all for the king's ufe. A woollen cloth alfo, called muflre-vilers, which is faid to be for the fummer-garments of the various officers belonging to the houfehold, from three millings and eight pence to five ihillings the yard ; blue and green velvet, from twelve to fixteen millings-; black velvet at ten fhillings, and crimfon figured velvet at eight fhillings the yard, for the kings ownufe.. Black cloth of gold, velvet upon velvet ; white tijfue cloth of gold, velvet upon velvet ; and green tiffue cloth of gold, are eftimated ai. forty fhillings the yard ; cloth of gold broched upon fatin ground, and blue cloth of fuver broched upon fatin ground, at four and: twenty fhillings ; fatin of divers colours at fix fliillings, green and * A.D. 1481. MS. in the Harleian library at the Britilh Mufeum, marked 4780. f -Refpecting thefe expensive articles of drefs, we have a much completer- lift in an inventory of the wardrobe belong- ing to Henry the Eighth, at the Tower, taken in the eighth year of his reign ; but, unfortunately, the prices are not annexed. They are lpeciued as follows : crimfon and blue cloth of gold tifue; green and black cloth of gold tiffue with velvet ; taivney, black, and purple velvet, pyrled and paled with cloth 'of gold ; bind and blue cloth of gold chew all : green cloth of fiver cheverall; irimfon cloth of gold of da- mafk embotfed ; crimfon cloth of gold quilt- ed white, embofied ; purple, green, black, white, and crimfon cloth of gold of da- i&aik, damaik. making; yellow and crimfon cloth cf gold: of Venice, damatk making ; ivhite, green, and taivuey cUtb of Jilvtr damafk ; green cloth of gold of damafi, che- quered ; blue, ivhite, green, and crimfon baudekins, with jio upon c ; and, when thou (halt lower them, thou fhalt take the bowe c, and fet it upon d, and the bowe b upon c, and the bowe a upon b." He then proceeds to fhew how to make, a broad lace of five bowes: " Thou fhalt fet two bowes upon a and b of the right hand, and three bowes on a, b, and c, of the left hand; then fhall a, upon the right hand, take through the bowe b, upon the fame hand, the bowe c of the left hand reverfed, then lower thy left hand bowes ; then fhall a, of the left hand, take through the bowe b, of the fame hand ; the bowe c of the right hand reverfed, then lower the bowes upon the right hand, and begin again -f-." The directions contained in this manufcript appear to me to have been intended for fuch laces as were made of filk or linen thread : but I fee no reafon to fuppofe that the fame procefs was not followed in the making of laces with * This MS. is in the Harleian library at the Britiih Mukutu, and marked 2320. f There are directions alfo for marking the following different kinds of laces : a round lace of rive bowes ; a thin lace ,of five bowes j a lace bafcon of five bowes ; a lace indented '®f five bowes, three of one colour, and two of another; a thin lace, bordered on both fides ; a lace, bordered on one fide ; a rb'.ck lace, bordered with ten bow es, parti)' coloured ; a lace condrak of feven bowes, departed of ttvo colours, •that is, firiped both ways, one half of diie colour, the other half of another 3 a billow lace of ten bowes ; a lace danvns ; a lace piol; a lace covert; a lace covert dou- ble ; a lace comport covert ; a lace markd ; a broad lace, party coloured a round lace, party coloured ; a lace bend, round of" eight bowes ; a lace, cbeyne broad ; a lace cbeveron, of twelve bowes ; a broad lace cbeveron, of eight bowes ; a round cbeve- ron; a cheveron, of fixteen bowes ; around lace, with cros and olyet ; a lace ounde, broad of fixteen bow es ; a rxmid lace, of fixteen bowes ; a green dorge, of five bowes ; the fame, with twelve bowes ; and a lace for hats. threads sj6 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART n threads of gold or filver. It feems clear that the artizans did not confine themfelves to the -Tingle article of laces; they manufactured fringes, tajfeh, and a variety of other commodities of like kind, and they appear to have carried on their occupations without any material caufe of complaint, until the middle of the feventeenth century ; at which time they felt themfelves greatly incommoded, as the lilk- women had been before them, by the importation of various articles fimilar to thofe that they manufactured ; and,_the evil increafing, it occafioned an application to parliament for their relief* ; and, in the petition which was laid before the houfe, it is ftated, that << great numbers of the inhabitants of this kingdom are employed in making bone-lace, band-fi 'rings, buttons, needle-work, cut-work, fringe, fdk, and embroideries, and that they have procured great quantities of thread and fdk to be brought into this kingdom from foreign parts, whereby his Majefty's revenues have been much advanced." It then proceeds to fpecify, that great quantities of the fame kind of wares, made in other countries, were brought into England by fo- reigners and others, and fold to the fhop-keepers without paying the cuftoms ; it was therefore humbly requefted, that the importations of fuch goods might be prohibited. The petition was complied with ; and a penalty, commanding the forfeiture of the goods fo imported, with an additional fine of fifty pounds for every offence, was eftablifhed by law. So much of this a6t as prevented the importation of bone- lace from Flanders was repealed in the twelfth, year of William the Third, becaufe it had occafioned a prohibition of the Englifh woollen manufactures in that country. Laces and double laces of filk, made of rybans of filk, at one fhilling and three pence the ounce ; a mantel lace of blue filk, with buttons of the fame, eftimated at feventeen Ihillings ; rybans of fdk, for points and laces, at one fhilling and two pence the ounce ; points made of filk ribbon, at twenty fhillings the pound ; fringes of Venice gold at fix fiiillings and eight pence the ounce ; fringes of filk at one fhilling and four pence the ounce ; and rybans of green thread at one penny the ounce j. are mentioned in the wardrobe roll of Edward the Fourth ; and, in the inventory of the wearing apparel^ belonging to Charles the Second, referred to in a former part of this chapter, we find coloured filk-lace ellimated at feven fhillings and fix pence the yard ; Flanders lace at ten millings the yard ; broad and narrow purlel. embroidered lace of gold and filver, taken together, at two pounds eight fhillings the yard ; gold and filver furled point raifed lace at twelve fiiillings and fix pence the yard ; and fringe of gold, for a- waiftcoat, at four fhillings and fix pence the ounce. The point laces were often very broad, and wrought with great diverfity of figures, * An. 14 Car. II 3 Ruffhead, vol. III. p. 247, f& PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 217 fo as to be exceedingly complicated in the workmanfhip, which of courfe enhanced their value * ; laces of this kind were held in high eftimation at the commencement of the prefent century ; and what was called a fuit of point lace, was confidered as a prefent worthy the acceptance of the firft lady in the land. Among the different articles fpecified in the preceding act, eftablifhed for the relief of the lace-makers, we find that but- tons are included. Buttons are mentioned occafionally, by various authors, from the commencement of the fourteenth century to the prefent time; and appear, at the earlieft period, to have formed a part of the drefs then in fafhion^ but were often, I truft, adopted rather for ornament than for ufe ; the purpofe to which the buttons of the prefent day are appropriated, in former times, was anfwered by ribands or laces. In the paintings of the four- teenth and fucceeding centuries, thefe ornaments frequently ap- pear upon the garments belonging to both fexes ; but, in variety of inftances, they are drawn without the button-holes, and placed in fuch lituations as preclude the idea of their ufefulnefs. Gene- rally fpeaking, they were made of gold or iilver, or, at leaft, they are fo depicted, with very few exceptions ; and, probably their fabri- cation fhould be referred to the goldfmiths rather than to the workers of filk. There is no reafon to believe, that the making of buttons was confidered as a bufinefs, abftractedly, until the modern times; and, even at the promulgation of the above-mentioned act, when the makers of this article formed a very coniiderable body, their whole trade feems to have been confined to the manufacturing of buttons worked with the needle. True it is, that metal buttons, and buttons made with variety of other materials, appear in the book of rates, as it was efta- bliihed two years previous to the act ; but, at the fame time it muft be obferved, that they are included among the wares imported, and were fubject to a very heavy fine-f;, while, on the other hand, the En- * A. D. 1591, a book was publifhed at London, by John Wolfe, intituled, " New and Angular Patternes and Workes of Linnen, wherein are repre- fented unto us the Seaven Planets, and. many other figures, ferving as Patternes to make divers forts of Lace." The at- tempt to reprefent the human figure in works of this kind is exceedingly ridicu- lous ; the planets are, as one may well expect to find them, uncouth and dif- proportionate forms, little better than the fcrawls of an untutored youth in his firft efforts at drawing 5 the parts that are merely ornamental are by far the beft ; and eren thofe, I trufi, would be thought ftiff and heavy when compared with the laces of the prefent day. f They are fpecified and rated as fol- lows : buttons of brafs, fteel, copper, or latten, the great grofs containing 12 fmalL grofs, and each grofs 12 dozen, n/. 13s. V. ; ofcryftal, the dozen 8/. 3 of glafs, the great grofs tP. 6s. 8d. - T of thread, the great grofs. £. i ; of filk, the great grofs £ ■■2, ; of fine damalk work, the dozen £.1; of bugle, the dozen 1.,-. 4^. of hair, the fmall grofs 4J. ; for handker- chiefs, the fmall grofs £.4. An. 12- Carol. II. a K gLifK 2l8 HABTTS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. glim buttons, reckoned with the exports, were liable to a very trifling duty. Thefe observations will receive additional ftrength from the authorities that follow. In the fourth year of William and Mary, a new act was made in favour of the button-makers, which prohi- bited the importation of all foreign buttons made with hair *. This again was followed by another iix years afterwards -f-, impofing a pe- nalty of forty millings for every dozen of covered buttons made, fold, or fet, upon the garments; it having been reprefented to the parliament, " that many thoufands of men, women, and children, within this kingdom, did depend upon the making of filk, mohair, gimp, and thread buttons, with the needle ; and, that great numbers of throwfters, fpinners, winders, diers, and others, were employed in preparing the materials with which buttons were made." — The pe- tition farther ftated, that the makers of fuch needle-work buttons were greatly aggrieved, and their bufinefs diminrfhed, " by the wearing of buttons made of Ihreds of cloth, ferge, drugget, frieze, camlet, and other fluff and materials of which cloths are ufually made ;** and, therefore, they prayed for relief : which was granted them as above, and has been farther extended in the courle of the prefent century. Manufactories for making of metal and other buttons, have been flnce eftablifhed, and continued, with great improvements. It will, I doubt not, be readily admitted, that the furrier's art was well underftood in this country, and at a very early period. We have feen already that great quantities of furs of various kinds were expended in the garments of perfons of both fexes, and of every degree, from the monarch to the menial fervant. It is true, indeed, that the moft va- luable furs were the produce of foreign countries, and might have been imported in a ftate fit for ufe ; but it is certain, on the other hand, that moll of thofe of the commoner fort, which formed by far the largeft part of the confumption, were made from the ikins of animals exifting in this kingdom; and, of courfe, were dreffed and prepared by our artifans, whofe experience, derived from conftant practice, •mull have been extenlive ; ahcl, indeed, they had every opportunity of improvement. The furriers do not appear to have laboured under the fame in- conveniences that were felt by moft other pro feffions employed in the making or vending the various articles, for drefs : I do not recollect that they were neceffitated to petition the legiflature for a redrefs of grievances ; nor, on the other hand, any remonftrances being made from the purchafers of their manufactures, accufing them of fraudu- lent practices. * Ruffliead, vol. III. p. 519. f An. 10 Gulielrai III. 5 ibid. vol. VI. p. a. We PART V. HABITS OP THE TEOPLE OF ENGLAND. 21g We have feen, in a former part of this work, fuch furs as were gene- rally ufed by the Saxons and the Normans * : I fhall here add a more particular lift, and include in it thofe that are of more modern date, which, for diftinction's fake, are printed in the Italic character. Bad- gers' fkins ; bears' ikins, black , white, and red ; beavers' Ikins, of which the womb or belly-part was reckoned the leaft eftimable ; bice, written alfo biche, that is, the fkin of the female deer -f ; budge J, or lambs' fkins ; calaber, the firffc mention that I find made of which fur is in the antient poem of Pierce the ploughman, where Phyiic is reprefented with his "furred hood and cloak of Kalabre :" the calaber was ufually fold by the tymber, that is, a parcel containing forty ikins ; cats' fkin ; cicimus ; docker ers, fold by the tymber ; doflus ; ermine, fold by the tymber § ; fitches, fold by the tymber ; foxes' ikins, of which the black fkins feem to have been the moil efteemed || ; foynes, or pole- cats' ikins, of which the backs and the tails were the parts moft va- luable ; goats' ikins ; greys, or gris, fold by the tymber : to which we may add the crijligrey, a fur much ufed in the commencement of the fifteenth century ; hares' fkins ; black and grey jennets ; letice, or letwis, which was an animal, according to Cotgrave, of a whitiih grey colour ; leopards' ikins ; lewzernes' ikins ; mar/ems', or martrons', ikins, fold by the tymber ** ; minever, to which may be added the gros- vair and penne-vair ; minkes' ikins, fold by the tymber; moles' ikins ; otters' ikins ; ounces' ikins ; rabbits' ikins ; fables' ikins of various kinds ; fquirrels' ikins ; weafels' ikins ; wolves' ikins ; and the ikins of wolverings. The woollen cloths manufactured in different parts of this king- dom required the affiftance of the fhearman, before they were per- fected. In the city of Norwich, we find, that a body of thefe arti- fans had been ertabliihed from a very remote period, and fublifted decently by the profits of their bufinefs ; but, towards the concluiion of the fifteenth century, they found themfelves aggrieved by the in- troduction of woriled fhearers, " feparate," as they fay, " from * See pages 138 and 139. •f 13 furres de bifhes are valued at fixty ihillings. Rot. Pari. an. 2 Hen. VI. % Written alfo bugge and boggy. In the inventory of the wardrobe of Edward the Fourth is this article : "17 hundred powderings of boggy legs" which are efti- mated at two Ihillings the hundred ; and, in the fame inftrument, " crifp white lamb's fkins 5" are prized at fourteen mil- lings the hundred. MS. in the Harleian Library, marked 4780. § And in the fecond year of Henry VI. a tymber of ermines was eftimated at ten Ihillings. Rot. Pari. ibid, marked 7068. || In the inventory cited in the pre- ceding note but one, eight ikins of the fox of Iiland (perhaps for Iceland), pur- chafed for the king's ufe, are eftimated at feven pence each ikin. 5f Fur de greis was valued at four ihillings the tymber containing forty ikins as above. Rot. Pari, in Bibl. Had. marked 7068. ** Ventret) or bellies, of martins' ikins, are prized at the rate of fix pence each 5 ibid. their 220 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. tTieir crafte," fo that their employment was diminimed, and they, with their families, were reduced to want * : they, therefore, had re- courfe to parliament for relief ; which was granted, and the bufinefs confined to fuch as had been regularly brought up to it. In the third year of Henry the Seventh, it was ordained in their favour, that no cloth fhould be exported till it had been i{ barbed round and fhorn." This act was confirmed in the fifth year of Henry the Eighth, with the exemption of fuch white woollen cloths as did not exceed the price of five marks ; and, in the twenty -feventh year of the fame reign, the exception was enlarged to white woollen cloths at four pounds, and coloured cloths at three pounds, the piece -j*. f The fhearmen of London were reign fuftians, as we have feen before,, cheated of their employment in a fingu- page 202. lar manner by the importers of the fo- f Ruffhead, vol. II. pp. 72, 111, 118. CHAP. J»i.RT V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OE ENGLAND. Ill CHAP. H. A brief Survey of the principal Sumptuary haws refpecHing Drefs ejlablijhed in the Englifh JEra. IN the thirty-feventh year of the reign of Edward the Third, the commons exhibited a complaint in parliament againft the gene- ral ufage of expenfive apparel, not fuited either to the degree or income of the people ; an act. was then patted by which the following regulations were infifted upon : I. That the grooms and fervants of the lords *, as well as thofe belonging to tradefmen and artificers -f, fhall not wear any cloth in their tunics, or their bofen exceeding the price of two marks for the whole piece ; neither fhall they wear any thing of gold or filver upon their garments, or attached thereto ; their wives and their chil- dren lhall wear the fame fort of cloth that is appointed for them, and ufe no veils purchafed at a higher fum than twelve pence each veil. II. Tradefmen, artificers, and men in office called yeomen fhall wear no cloth in their apparel, exceeding the price of forty millings the whole cloth || ; neither fhall they embellifh their garments with precious Hones, cloth of filk, or of filver ; nor (hall they wear any gold or filver upon their girdles, knives, rings, garters, nouches, ri- bands, chains, bracelets, or feals % ; nor any manner of apparel em- broidered or decorated ** with filk, or any other way ; their wives and their children fhall wear the fame kind of cloth as they do, and * Garcens fi bien fervants as feigneurs. % Ceinture, cottelhfermaille, anel, garter, + Gensde meiftre et ties artificers. nouches, rubans, cheifnes, binds, fealx, &c. i Vefiure ou chaucure. ** Aymelex., or amyled, ufually tran- t Gents d' office appelle%yeomtn. flated enamelled ; but that interpretation || Per voie dacat is ufually added $ cannot be proper in this place. that is, by the way of buying, or marUt frice, 3 L ufc 222 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. ufe no veils but fuch as are made with thread, and manufactured in this kingdom ; nor any kind of furs, excepting thofe of iambs, of rabbits, of cats, and of foxes. III. All efquires, and every gentleman under the eflate of knight- hood, and not poffeffed of lands or tenements to the yearly amount of two hundred pounds *, fhall ufe in their drefs fuch cloth as does not exceed the value of four marks and a half the whole cloth ; they lhall not wear any cloth of gold, of filk, or of filver ; nor any fort of embroidered garment; nor any ring, buckle, nouche, riband, nor girdle, nor any other part of their apparel, gilt, or of filver ; nor any ornaments of precious ftones, nor furs of any kind : their wives and children mall be fubject to the fame regulations ; and they fhall not wear any purfilling or facings upon their garments ; neither lhall they ufe ejclaires, crinales, or trec/lesf; nor embellilh their ap- parel with any kind of ornaments of gold, of filver, or of jewelry : but all efquires poffeffed of two hundred pounds, or upwards, in lands or tenements, may wear cloth at the price of five marks' the whole piece, and cloth of filk and of filver, with ribands, girdles, and other apparel, reafonably embellifhed with filver : their wives and their children may alfo wear furs and facings of minever, but not of ermine nor letice ; neither may they ufe any ornaments of pre- cious ftones, excepting upon their head-dreffes. IV. Merchants, citizens, burgeffes, artificers, and tradefmen, as well in the city of London, or elfewhere, who are in poffeffion of the full value of five hundred pounds in goods and chattels f , may, with their wives and children, ufe the fame clothing as the efquires and gentlemen who have a yearly income of one hundred pounds ; and fuch of them as are in poffeffion of goods and chattels to the - amount of one thoufand pounds, may, with their wives and children wear the fame apparel as the efquires and gentlemen who have two hundred pounds yearly. It is, however, to be obferved, that no groom, yeoman, nor fervant, appertaining to the perfons above-men- tioned,' fhall exceed the apparel ordained for the grooms and fervants of the lords and others fpecified before. V. Knights, poffeffed of lands or tenements to the annual value of two hundred marks, may wear in their apparel cloth not exceeding fix marks value the whole piece, but no cloth of gold ; neither may they ufe any cloak, mantle, or gown, furred with pure minever, nor Jeeves furred with ermine, nor have any parts of their garments embroidered * 200 marks in the old tranflation. crimiles, tro/les. The crinales were pro- + I own myfelf at a lofs refpeding bably bodkins, or hair-pins, ornamented thele three parts of the female, drefs : in with jewels. ©ther copies they are written ef dares, + Biens et chateaux. with PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. with jewelry, or otherwife ; and their wives and their children mall be fubjecT: to the fame reftriclion, and ufe no linings * of ermine , nor letice, efclaires, nor any kind of precious ftones, unlefs it be upon their heads: but all knights and ladies, poffeifed of lands or tene- ments exceeding the value of four hundred marks yearly, and ex- tending to one thoufand pounds, may ufe their own pleafure, except- ing only that they may not wear the furs of ermine or Utice i nor any embellifhment of pearles, except upon their heads. VI. The dignified clergy -f~, who require the indulgence, may wear fuch furs as are beft fuited to their conftitutions : others of the clergy, who have yearly incomes exceeding two hundred marks, are entitled to the fame privileges as the knights of the fame eftate ; and thofe of inferior degree fhall rank with the efquires pofTeffed of one hundred pounds yearly income. It is alfo ordained that the knights, as well as the clergy who are permitted by this inftitution to wear fur in the winter, may alfo wear lining to their garments in the fummer. VII. All labourers and lower clafies of the people, not pofTefTed of goods and chattels to. the amount of forty millings, fhall wear no kind of cloth but blankets and ruifets, and thofe not exceeding twelve pence the yard £ ; nor ufe any other girdles than fuch as are made of linen. And, that there might be no excufe for evading the fpecifi- cations of this act, it was commanded, that the clothiers mould make fufflcient quantities of cloth, at the eftablifhed prices, to fatisfy the demands of the people at large. The penalty annexed to the infringe- ment of thefe ordinances was the forfeiture of . the apparel fo made and worn §. It is difficult to determine how far thefe reftri&ions were produc- tive of a general reform ; and, if they were, it is highly probable that fuch a reform was not of any long continuance, becaufe the contem- porary writers do not appear to have abated in the leaft the, virulence of their cenfures upon the luxuries and fuperfluities of drefs in this or in the fucceeding reign ; and, indeed, Henry the Fourth, foon af- - ter he came to the throne ||, found it neceffary to revive the prohibiting ftatutes eftablifhed by his predeceffor relating to apparel; which, however, was done, with feveral confiderable alterations and additions, fuch, I prefume, as the exigences of the time required : — they run as follow ; I. That no man, not being, a banneret, or perfon of higher eftate, mall wear any cloth of gold, of crimfon, of velvet or motley velvet, * Revers d'ermyns. was made, was held at Weftminfter, A. D. \ Clercs qi out degre en Egltfe cathedrale, 1363. Rot. Pari. MS", in Bibl. Harl. (ollegales ou es efcoks et clercs du roy, infig. 7059. % Vaune, || A. D. 1403, the. fourth yearof hist* The parliament, in. which this ad- reign. nor." 224 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. nor large hanging Jleeves open or clofed *, nor his gown fo long as to touch the ground, nor ufe the furs of ermine % letice, or martins, ex- cepting only officers in the army when on duty, who were permitted to drefs themfelves according to their pleafure-f-. II. That no clergyman, below the dignity of a refid nt canon of a cathedral or collegiate church, lhall wear a large ho d, furred or lined, extending beyond the points of his moulders %. — This curious privilege was granted to the lord chancellor, the chancellor, the ba- rons of the exchequer, and other great officers belonging to the king's court ; and alfo to matters of divinity, doctors of law, and the regents of the univerfities. In the eighth year of the fame mo- narch's reign, it was alfo extended to the ferjeants belonging to the court, who might wear fuch hoods as they pleafed, for the honour of the king, and the dignity of their ftation. No clergymen, below the degrees above-mentioned, {hall wear any furs of pure minever, of grey, or of biche, nor any kind of gilt trappings §. No clergyman, beneath the eftate of an archbilhop, or bilhop, lhall ufe any facings of ermine or minever upon his garments : to this claufe it was afterwards added ||, that, in future, no chaplain lhall wear a girdle, bafelard, or any other implement, decorated with lilver,- and that no efquire, apprentice to the law ^f, nor clerk of the chancery, or of the exchequer, or in any other place at the court, in the houfehold of the king, or rending with any of the lords of the realm, lhall ufe any garments furred with grey, crijie grey, mine- ver, or bicbe ; nor lhall they wear any ornaments of pearls, or other jewelry, ouches, or beads, nor any other accoutrements of gold. But, in this inftance, the mayor, for the time being, of the city of London, the mayor of Warwick**, and other free towns, accuf- tomed heretofore to wear fuch furs, were excepted, and had permif- lion to follow the common ufage. III. That no yeoman lhall wear any other furs than thofe of foxes, of conies, and of otters. IV. That no perfon lhall ufe bafelards, girdles, daggers, or horns %%, decorated with filver, nor any other trappings of filver, unlefs he be povTefTed of the yearly income, in lands or tenements, to the amount of twenty pounds, or of goods and chattels to the value of two hun- * Matiches pendants overt ne chfe. f Gens Sarnies quant its Jeunt arme%. \ Grofs chaperons furres ne leynes qe paf- fant les point de lefpaules. § Hermys endorrez. || An. 8 Henry IV. ^ a k ' nd of ftomacher or f 1 he penalty m every cafe was the bodice. forfeiture of the garment, or adornment, || A MS -copy in the Harleian library ruled contrary to the ftatutes. reads pounds, inftead of marks, in moft of + hmprfonement et de faife fyn & ran- thefe penalties. ceon a l« vclunte du roy. 3 M 111. No Zl6 BABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART *. III. No perfon under the degree of a lord fhall wear any cloth of lilk of a purple colour, under the penalty of ten pounds. IV. Noefquire nor gentleman under the rank of a knight, nor their wives, fhall wear any velvet, figured fatin *, nor any counterfeit re- fembling velvet, or figured fatin, nor any counterfeit cloth of lilk, nor any wrought torjes under the penalty of ten marks.— The fons of lords, with their wives and daughters, and efquires for the king's body, with their wives, are excepted in this claufe. V. No efquire nor gentleman, nor any other man or woman under the rank aforefaid, fhall wear any damaik or fatin, under the penalty of one hundred pence. — There is a long exception to this claufe, in- eliiding dom.eft.ic efquires ferjeants, officers of the king's houfe- hold, yeomen of the crown, yeomen of the king's chamber, ef- quires, and gentlemen poffeffing the yearly value of one hundred pounds. VI. Remembering always, that the fenefchal §, chamberlain* treafurer, comptroller of the king's houfehold, his carvers |], and knights for his body, and their wives, may wear furs of fables and ermines ; and the mayors of London and their wives may wear the fame array as the batchelor-knigths and their wives ; the aldermen and recorder of London, and all the mayors and vifcounts ^ of the cities, towns, and boroughs of the faid realm, the mayors and bailiffs of the Cinque Ports, and the barons of the fame, and the mayors and bailiffs of the fhire-towns, with their wives, may ufe the fame appa- rel as efquires and gentlemen having poffeffions to the. annual amount of forty pounds. VII. No man, not having the yearly value of forty pounds, fhall wear any fur of martins, of pure grey, or of pure minever ; nor fhall the wife, the fon s the daughter, or the fervant of fuch a man, the fon and daughter being under his government; nor fhall any widow of lefs poffeffion wear a girdle ornamented with gold, or with lilver, or gilt** in any part of it, nor any corfe of lilk made out of the realm, nor any coverchief exceeding the price of three millings and four pence the p.lite under the penalty of five marks. — The excep- tions contained in the fixth claufe are here repeated ; and the perfons excepted, with their wives, might wear the furs of martins, foynes, * Satem fugery in the MS. and fugerie in Ruff head : the old tranllatioa has it Jatyn braunched. f Corjts ever ex. \ Efquirts melnaulx. \ The high fteward. || Kervers in the MS. but fes trenchecrs in Ruff head, Mayors et vifcountz des citees. ** Sur orre and overgilt in the old!:; tranflation. ff For fold, or fq.uare. Every one of thefe folds, I prefume.,. was a com- plete coverchief. and- FART T. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. and hike ; and alfo gilt girdles and cover chiefs at the price of five fhillings the plite. VIII. No man, unlefs he be poffeffed of the yearly value of forty Shillings, Hi-all wear any fuftian buftian, nor fufiian of Naples, nor fcarlet, nor cloth in grain, nor any furs but of black or white lambs' 1 fan, under the forfeiture of forty fhillings.— The former exceptions- are alfo added to this claufe. IX. No yeoman, nor any other perfon under the degree of a yeo- man, fhall wear, in the apparel for his body, any bo Iflers ; nor fluffing of zvool, cotton, or caddis, in his pourpoint or doublet, but a lining only according to the fame, under the penalty of fix fhillinss and eight pence. X. No knight under the rank of a lord, efqutre, or gentleman,, nor any other perfon, fhall wear any gown, jacket, or cloak, that is not long enough, when he ftands upright, to cover his pri- vities and his buttocks, under the penalty of twenty millings ; and, if any taylor fhall make fuch Jhort gowns, jackets, cloaks, or doublets, fluffed, or otheFwife contrary to this acl, the fame fhall be forfeited. XI. No knight under the eftate of a lord, efquire, or gentleman, nor any other perfon, fhall wear any fhoes or boots, having pikes or points exceeding the length of two inches, under the forfeiture of forty pence ; and every fhoe-maker, who fhall make pikes for fhoes or boots beyond the length frated in this flatute, fhall- forfeit, for every offence, the fum of forty pence.— This penalty was enlarged the next year; and it was then ordained, that no fhoe-maker nor cobbler* in London, or within three miles f of the fame, fhall make, or caufe to be made, any fhoes, galoches, or bufkins, w\\\\pikei or poleyns Jexceed- ing the length of two inches, under the forfeiture of the fum of twenty fhillings; and, the year following, if Stow be correct, " It was pro- claimed throughout England, that the beaks or pikes of fhoes or boot* fhould not exceed two inches, upon pain of eurfing by the clergy, and forfeiting of twenty fhillings : one noble to the king, another to the cordwainers of London, and the third to the chamber of London §." XII. No fervant of hufbandry,. nor common labourer, nor fen-ant of an artificer inhabitant of any city or borough, fhall wear in their garments any cloth exceeding the price of two fhillings the broad yard ; their wives fhall' be reftricled. to the fame; and they fhall not wear any coyer chief of more value than twelve pence the plite or fquare. It is alfo ordained, that the fervants and labourers aforefaid, * Cardenuaner, ou cobeler. the old tranflation), oveque qfcun pike, cap t Troiskukes. poleine, &c. t. Solers, galogts, ou hufens (bn/iaux in § Chronicle, p. 419, fhall. 2^8 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART V* lhall not wear any hofen, chfe or open, beyond the price of fourteen pence the pair ; neither lhall their wives ufe any girdles garnifhed with lilver, under the penalty of forty pence. XIII. No perfon in any part of thefe realms fhall fell lawn, nifels % wimples, nor any other fort of covercbiefs, whereof the price of each plite lhall exceed the fum of ten (hillings, under the forfeiture of thirteen millings and four pence to the king-j~ for every plite fo fold. In the twenty- fecond year of this monarch's reign, all the former ftatutes " againft excefs of apparel" were repealed, and thofe that follow fubftituted for them : L That no perfon, of whatfoever eftate, degree, or condition, he may be, lhall wear any cloth of gold, or filk of purple colour, except- ing the king, the queen, the king's mother, his children, his brothers, and his lifters, upon pain of forfeiting, for every default, the fum of twenty pounds. II. No perfon under the eftate of a duke lhall wear any cloth of gold of trjfue, under the forfeiture of twenty marks. III. No perfon under the eftate of a lord lhall wear any plain cloth of gold, under the penalty of ten marks. IV. No perfons under the degree of a knight lhall wear any velvet in their doublets, nor in their gowns, nor any damajk or fatin in the fame, excepting only the efquires for the king's body, under the for- feiture of forty Ihillings. V. No yeoman of the crown, nor any other perfon under the de- gree of an efquire or a gentleman, lhall wear, in their doublets, damajk, fain, or gowns of camlet, under the penalty of forty Ihillings. . VI. No perfon under the eftate of a lord lhall wear any manner of woollen cloth manufactured out of the king's dominions %, nor any furs of fables, under the forfeiture of ten pounds. VII. This claufe relates to the fervants, and is the fame as the twelfth claufe of the preceding act, excepting only that their wives axe hereby permitted to wear a reyle, called a kerchejfe, or coverchief, to any value not exceeding twenty pence ; and the men fuch hofe as were not of higher price than eighteen pence : the penalty is the fame in both places. VIII. This is precifely the fame as the tenth claufe in the former acf , faving only that the prohibition to the taylors is not included §. Thefe regulations were renewed from time to time in the fucceed- ing reigns ; but with fo few alterations, that it would be perfectly * Nyefles in the old tranflation ; pro- + That is, England, Ireland, Wales, bably a fort of veil. and Calais. f All thefe penalties were to be paid § RurFhead, vol. IX. pp. 93. 98. to the king ■ it was needlefs continually to repeat them. 5 ufelefs FART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 229 tifelefs to repeat them. I mail only notice a few of the moft mate- rial variations that were made by Henry the Eighth in the twenty- fourth year of his reign. In the firft claufe, the furs of black genetts are confined to the ufe of the royal family ; the furs of fables might not be ufed by any perfons under the degree of a marquis or an earl, the heir apparent of a duke, or the king's children. Woollen bonnets made abroad are excepted in the claufe that relates to the not wearing of woollen cloths imported from the Continent. No perfon under the degree of a knight of the Garter might wear crhnfon or blue velvet, excepting the fons and heirs of barons and knights, who were permitted to ufe tin/el and crimfon velvet in their doublets. Knights and efquires for the king's body, his cup-bearers, carvers, and fewers ; the fame for the queen and prince ; the treafurer of the king's chamber, and other officers, having lands or tenements to the yearly amount of two hundred marks ; the juftices of the king's bench, the mafter of the Rolls, the barons of the Exchequer, the king and the queen's phyficians, and the mayors of London ; were permitted to wear velvet in their gowns, jackets, or coats, and fur of martins, either mixed, joined, guarded, or broidered : they might alfo wear chains and bracelets of gold, or gilt, and collars of gold : which permiffion was alfo extended to certain officers fo appointed to do by their office in the king's, queen's, prince's, and other honour- able houfeholds : in all other cafes, thefe ornaments were forbidden to be ufed by any perfon not poffeffing the yearly rent of two hundred marks. The fons and heirs of the abovementioned perfonages were privileged to wear black velvet doublets, coats of black damafk, ruffet of tawny colour, and camlet. By another claufe it is ordained, that no perfon under the degree of a knight fhall wear a gown of velvet, pinched jhirt, pinched partlet of linen cloth, or plain Jhirt garnifhed with gold, with filver, or with The wearing of fatin and damajk gowns was confined to fuch ranks of perfons as were in pofTefiion of one hundred marks yearly at the leaft. Embroidered apparel broched or guarded with gold and filver, or with goldfmiths work, was prohibited to all perfons below the dignity of a duke's fon, a marquis, an earl, or a knight of the Garter. No perfon under the degree of a gentleman pofieflbd of ten pounds annual income, or goods to the value of one hundred pounds, was permitted to ufe any furs but of fuch animals as were to be found in this kingdom. 3 N No- £30 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V, No man under the degree of a knight, excepting fpiritual men, .ferjeants at law, or graduates at the Uni verities, might ufe more than three yards of cloth for a long gown. No ferving man under the degree of a gentleman was permitted to wear, in a gown or coat., more than three broad yards ; neither might he wear a gown -of camlet, nor ufe any kind of fur but that of lambs ; nor any cloth in his kofe furpaffing twenty pence the yard, unlefs the gift and leaving of his mafter : no perfon under the degree of a gentleman might wear any kind of filk or camlet in his apparel, nor any points •with agletts of gold ox ftl-vtr, nor gilt ; nor buttons or broches of the fame, nor any goldfmitffs work, excepting his lord's badge. The price of the cloth for the apparel of the hufbandmen and la- bourers is fet at two millings and four pence the yard, and for their hofe twelve pence the yard ; and the penalty for the infringment of ■the ftatute was imprifonment in the flocks for three days. In the fecond year of queen Mary's reign # , it was ordained by parliament that no perfon mould wear filk upon his hat, bonnet, girdle, Jword-fcabbard, hofe, Jhoes, or fpur leathers, excepting majors and al- dermen, under pain of imprifonment for three months, and the for- feiture of ten pounds. It farther ftates, that, if any perfon, knowing his fervant to offend by the breach of this act, fhall not put him from his fervice within the fpace of fourteen days, he fhall forfeit one hundred pounds In the eighth year of queen Elizabeth, it was ordained that no man under the degree of a knight, or a lord's fon, mould wear any hat or upper cap of velvet, or covered with velvet j£« Exclufive of the eftablifhed acts of parliament for reflraining the common ufe of expenlive .and fuperfluous clothing, there were fre- quent mandates from the Privy Council to the chief magiftrates of London, and probably the fame weie alfo fent to the other cities and large towns throughout the kingdom, commanding them to enforce the penal ftatutes and to ufe every means that the law put into their hands to fupprefs fuch abufes. There is a letter of this kind in the library of Sir Hans Sloan at the Britifh Mufeum §, which was fent -by the lords of the privy council, in the firft year of the reign of queen Elizabeth ||, to the lord mayor of London, to the end that he ■might caufe fpeedy reformation of divers enormities in the faid city ; and, firft, 4 4 the ufe and wearing of exceffive and inordinate apparel contrarie to the lawes of the realme." And Stephen GofTon, in his * A. D. i £54. uderably diminifhed by the wearing of f This aft was repealed, an. 1 Jacobil. velvet hats, &c. Ibid. p. 578. Ruffhead, vol II. p. 466. § In a MS. marked 1691. % This a<5t was palled in favour of the || A. D. 1359. nxxillen-cap makers, whole trade was con- " Scho©l PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 23 I " School of Abufe *," fatirizing the vices to which he was an eye- witnefs, fays, " How often hath her majefty f , with the grave ad- vice of her honourable council, fette downe the limits of apparel to every degree, and how foone againe hath the pride of our hearts overflowen the chanel ? How many times hath accefle to the thea- tres beene reftrayned, and how boldly againe have we re-entered ? Overlalhing in apparel is lb common a fault, that the Very hyerhngs of fome of our players, who Hand at the reverfion of fix millings by the weeke, jet under gentlemen's nofes in fuits of filke, exerciting themfelves too prating on the ftages, and in common fcoffing when they come abrode, where they look alkance over the moulder at every man of whom the Sunday before they begged an almes." Proclamations to the fame purpofe were alio made from time to time throughout the kingdom, and efpecially when any abufe had taken place that didnotexiftat the eftablimment ofthe penal ftatutes: thus, according to Bulver + , in the reign of queen Mary, the people in general had laid afide the long points they formerly wore at the end of their fhoes, and caufed them to be made fquare at the toes, with fo much addition to the breadth, that their feet exhibited a much more prepofterous appearance than they had done in the former inftance : therefore, fays the author, " a proclamation was made, that no man fhould wear his fhoes above lix inches fquare at the toes." He then tells us, that " picked Jhoes foon after came again into vogue," but they did not, I prefume, continue any great time in ule. " Square-toed Jhoes;' as they were properly enough called, were in fafhion during the greateft part of the laft century, and continued to be fo within the memory of man. In the middle of the fifteenth century §, James the Second of Scot- land thought it necelTary to eftablilh the following fumptuary laws relative to the mantles to be worn by the nobility and burghers when they afTembled in parliament. All earls thall ufe mantles of a brown granick colour, open before, and furred with white lining, and faced in the front, the breadth of a hand, to the girdle ftand, with the fame lining ; with little hoods of the fame cloth to be ufed upon their lhoulders : and the other lords of the parliament mall have a mantle of red, open before, and lined with filk, or furred with crift-grey, oris, or purr ay, together with a hood of the fame cloth, and furred fn the fame manner ; and all tie commifTaries of boroughs lhall have, every one of them, a pair of cloaks of blue, open on the right fhoul- der, and furred with hoods of the fame : and no earl, lord of the par- * A fcarce little tra&, printed at Lon, % In his « Pedigree of the Englifli don, A. D. 1579. Gallant," p. 548. f Queen Elizabeth. k A, D. 1455. liament, HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART V, liament, or commiffary of a borough, fhall enter the parliament without the faid furred habit, under the penalty of ten pounds to be forfeited to the king and the fine to be unremitted. By the fame law it was ordained, that advocates who pleaded for money in the parliament Ihould have habits of green, of the fafhion of a tunekil, with open fleeves Two years afterwards, the fame monarch thought the following re- jftrictions needful : That no man, living in a city or borough by mer- chandize, unlefs he be of the dignity of an alderman, bailiff, or be- longing to the council of the borough, fhall wear cloths of lilk, or gowns of fcarlet, nor furrings of mertrikis: their wives and daughters lhall be fubjecl: to the fame regulations, and wear on their heads fhort coverchiefs, with little hoods, as they are ufed in Flan- ders, England, and other countries ; and that no women lhall wear mertrikis nor latices upon their gowns, nor tails of an improper length, nor furred underneath, except on holidays -J\ This law, fays a modern hiftorian J, was evidently dictated by the pride of the great lords, to check the vanity of burghers, their wives, and daugh- ters, who prefumed to drefs like lords and ladies. By the fame ftatute it was alfo ordained, that no woman fhould come to church, or to market, with her face mujfalit, that is, covered; and, notwithftanding this law, the Scottifh ladies are faid to have continued mmTeled during three reigns, as appears from a fatirical; poem written by Sir David Lyndefay § ; who, alluding to this cuf- torn of the women, fays, But in kirk and market plans I think they Jhuld nocht hide thair faces \ Sec. * Black A6ts, 28 James II. chap. 52. § See Warton's Hiftory of Englifti. f Ibid. an. 30, chap. 78. Poetry, vol. JIL p. 324. J Dr. Henry, in the Hiftory of Bri- tain, vol. V.p. $S7' CHAP; HAKT V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. CHAP. III. Oflentation and Superfluity in Drefs condemned by the moral and religious Writers. — Satirical Reflexions and Inveclives by the Poets and other Authors on the fame Subjetl. — The Articles of the Ladies'' Drefs in theThirteenth Century enume- rated and contrafled with thofe of the Seventeenth Century. — ■ The hafly adoption of new Fafhions reprobated. — Apparel fhould be fuited to the Seafon. — All Arts to change the Co- lour of the Hair, the wearing of falfe Hair, and quaint At- tires for the Head, dif approved of— The Horned Head- drefs and the Steeple Head- Drefs fatirized. — Face-painting con- demned. — General Prevalence of expenflve Fafhions proved. — Variety of Abfurdities in Drefs defer ibed and ridiculed.— Silk Stockings, when firfi introduced.~The Clergy cenfured for their Love of Finery.— The Dif appointment of John Drakes, as related by Camden. IN the preceding chapter is contained a general view of the penal ordinances refpe&ing apparel : we find them levied againit all kinds of excefs, and calculated to keep the extravagance of the falhions within fome moderate bounds ; but the infumciency of thefe edicts to effe& the purpofe for which they were inftituted, at leaft tor any long continuance, will, I prefume, be readily allowed, tliitory abounds with continual ftrains of cenfure upon the pre- 3 O valent 2,34 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PAR T T. valent abfurdities and luxuries of drefs, even after the promulgation of thofe laws, and almoft every clafs of writers have exprefied their difapprobation of the fame. The moral and the religious authors took up the matter in a ferious light ; and the latter not unfre- quently have joined their anathemas to their arguments ; but even their maledictions were not fuccefsful. The Poets called in the affift- ance of fatire, and have fucceffively exerted their wit upon the fubjedt, though often, it muft be confeffed, with more acrimony than fair reafoning, and without the proper difcrimination that ought to cha- racterife the writings of thofe who take upon themfelves to cenfure others. I do not mean that thefe obfervations fhould be confined to the poets : the moral and religious writers are equally blameable upon this point ; they have magnified the mere foibles of the mul- titude into crimes, and, placing them upon a level with fins of the firft magnitude, have threatened the delinquents with equal punifhment. For this reafon, many of the ill-natured farcafms which occafionally may be found in the courfe of the prefent work, ftiould never have had a place here, but that they contain the names and ufes of many parts of the habits belonging to both fexes, not to be met with in any other receptacle of ancient re- cord. There is extant a little poem, or ballad, in the French language, as ancient, 1 believe, as the thirteenth century * ; in which, the au- thor compares the ladies of his time to magpies. " The pies," fays he, " from nature -f, bear feathers of various colours ; fo the ladies delight in ftrange habits and diveriity of ornaments : the pies," con- tinues he, " have long tails that trail in the dirt ; fo the ladies make their tails a thoufand times longer than thofe of peacocks or of pies." . I have already had occafion to notice the feventy with which William de Lorris and his continuator, John de Meun, have at- tacked the ladies, in the celebrated poem called the Romance^ of the Rofe, and the narrow efcape the latter had from being juftly punifhed by them*. In this work, De Lorris has drawn the character of Jealoufy : and introduces him reproaching his wife for her unfatiable love of finery, which, he infifts, is only to make her appear more amiable in the eyes of her gallants. He then proceeds to enumerate the parts of her drefs, confifting of, mantles lined with fables, furcoats, neck-linens §, wimples, * MS. in the Harleian Library, at i See page 1.50. t the Britifh Mufeum, marked 2253. .^Touaiiles, MS. 5 and, in the printed f De coftume. edition, tonelles* petticoats, FART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. *35 petticoats*, fhifts, pelices, jewels, chaplets of frefh flowers -f~, buckles of gold J, rings, robes, and rich furs. — To this he adds, M You carry the worth of one hundred pounds in gold and filver upon your head — fuch garlands, fuch coiffures with gilt ribbons fuch mirrours framed in ivory, and circles of gold engraved and curioujly enamelled ||, and crowns of fine gold, fo fair, fo beautifully polifhed, and adorned with precious ftones ; fuch clafps of gold, fet with fine jewelry work, hanging at your neck and upon your bofom : fuch tifTues and girdles, with expenfive faftenings of gold, fet with pre- cious Jlones of /mailer fize ; and your feet fhod fo primly, that the robe mult be often lifted up to fhew them." — And, in a fubfequent part of the poem, the ladies are advifed, if their legs be not hand- fome, nor their feet fmall and delicate, to wear long robes, trailing upon the pavement, to hide them. Thofe, on the contrary, who had pretty feet, ought to elevate their robe, as if it were to give accefs to the air, that all who were paffing by might fee and admire their beautiful form. In another part of this Romance, John de Meun relates the ftory, of Pygmalion, and humouroufly reprefents him adorning the female. ftatue he has newly formed, with a fucceflion of the garments in fafhion with the ladies at the time the poem was written, in order to difcover which of them became her beft. This produces the fol- lowing fpecification : — He clothed her in many guifes ; in robes, , made with great fkill, of the finefi: filk and woollen cloths; green,, azure, and brunette, ornamented with the richefb fkins of ermines, minivers, and greys : thefe being taken off, other robes were tried : upon her, of filk, cendal, mallequins, mallebruns, fatins dia- per, and camelot, and all of divers colours. Thus decorated, fhe refembled a little angel; her countenance was fo modeft. Then, again, he put a wimple upon her head; and over that a coverchief, which concealed the wimple, but hid not her face. All thefe gar- ments were then laid afide for gowns -f"f~, yellow, red, green, and blue ; and her hair was handfomely difpofed in fmall braids, with threads of filk and gold, adorned with little pearls^, upon which was placed, with great precifion, [a crejline^ ; and over the creftine* v * Cmttis. ■f Chappeaux de flew.i nouvelles. X Fermeaulx. § Jldorees bandes. || B'ten entalllez ei precieufement efmaillex, ^[ lierres nienues. ** Samii, printed edition. •f-f- Guindes. %X Et hs treJJou%, gentils, et gre/les, De foy d'or a menues perlet. §§ Crefpine and Crefpinete in the*printed' edition. This ornament is thought by fome commentators to have been a bor- der, or circle, that encompaffed the head. Borel explains it, by a fort of coeffure of crape, or of gauze : it was probably the cawl, or net- work, which confined the hair, as it appears upon, plates XCIV, XCV., 236 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V a crown or circle of gold, enriched with precious ftones of various lizes. Her little ears *, for fuch they are faid to be, were deco- rated with two beautiful pendant rings of gold -j~ ; and her necklace was confined to her neck by two clafps of gold. Her girdle was ex- ceedingly rich ; and to it was attached an aulmoniere, or fmall purfe, of great value. Her ftockings and her fhoes are next mentioned ; and the latter, we are told, were handfomely carved, the breadth of two inches from the pavement % ; that is, I prefume, from the bottom of the fole. Bufkins §, however, formed no part of her drefs ; and the reafon given, in the printed edition, is, becaufe Jhe was not born at Paris || ; as though it had been peculiar to the Parifian ladies to wear bulkins, I have generally followed the beautiful manufcript copy of this celebrated poem, preferved at the Britifh Mufeum 5[, which varies frequently very materially from the printed editions, and ef- pecially in this pafTage, where a reafon totally different from the former is affigned ; that is, becaufe Jhe was fo lately born, and therefore this kind of covering for the legs would be too indelicate or rough for fo young a virgin ** ; being nearly arrayed, the fleeves of her gown were to be drawn clofe, with threads of gold ; a chaplet, or garland, of new and beautiful flowers was to be made for her head ; and, to com- pleat the whole, her fingers were to be embellifhed with rings of gold. Where the Author fpeaks of the garland made with new flowers, he adds, " fuch as the pretty virgins, in fpring-time, form into chap- lets :" fo Lidgate -f v -|~, fpeaking in praife of Spring, fays : " This fefon of ver, moft pleafaunt to childhood, With their chapelletys green, white, and red/' ' Having feen the whole paraphernalia, as it were, of a lady's wardrobe, at the clofe of the thirteenth century, I fhall, by way of contraft, lay before my Readers a more extenlive catalogue, and of much more modern date, that the comparifon between the two pe- riods may be eafily made ; and alfo to fhow how greatly the parts of drefs were varied, at leaft in their denominations. It occurs in a * Oreilkites. \ Deux belles verges a" or grejleites. \ Et a deux dots du pavement Entailliez jolietetnent. § Hofeaux et Houjeaulx. j| Car el rffjl pas.de Pasis nee. % In theHarleian library, marked.4425. ** Car pas nejioit de faifon nee Cefut trop rude chaufement A pucclle de telle jouvent, ff In a poem called his Tejlament. MS. in the Harlian library, marked 2255. kind PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 237 kind of dramatic paftoral called Rhodon and Iris*; and the man . fesl^T:^ ' famaftiCal ° f fafhi ° n ' is introduced > " Here is a catalogue as tedious as a taylor's bill Of all the devices which lam commanded to provide— videlicet. Chains, coronets, pendans, bracelets, and ear-rings • £ins, girdles, fpangles, embroyderies, and rings ; Shadowes, rebatoes, ribbands, ruffes, cufFes, falls, Scarfes feathers, fans, malkes, mufFes, laces, cauls, inin tiftames, cobweb lawne, and fardingals • Sweet fals, vayles, wimples, glaffes, crifping'pins, lots of ointment, combs, with poking flicks, and bodkins; Coyfes gorgets, fringes, rowles, fillets, and hair laces; bilks, damalks, velvets, tinfels, cloth of gold, Of tifiues, with colours of a hundred fold 1 But, in her tyres, fo new fangl'd is fhe, That which doth with her humour now agree, To-morrow fhe diflikes ; now doth fhe fweare", That a loofe body is the neateft weare ; But, ere an houre be gone, fhe will proteft, A ftrait gowne graces her proportion beft ; ' Now calls fhe for a boiftrous fardingall, Then to her hips fhe'll have her garments fall ; Now doth fhe praife a fleeve, that's long and wide, let, by-and-by, that fafhion doth deride. Sometimes, fh' applaudes a pavement-fweepine traine, And prefentlydifpraifeth it againe ; Now fhe commends a fhallow band, fo fmall, That it may feem fcarce any band at all ; But, won to a new fancy, doth fhe reele And calls for one as big'as a coach wiieele. She'll weare a flowry coronet to day, The fymball of her beauty's fad decay ; To-morrow (he a waving plume will try, The embleme of all female levitie, Now in her hat, then in her hair is dreft ; Now, of aU fafhions, fhe thinks change the beft." To this long quotation, valuable for nothing but the names it contains, I will add another, much more poetical, written nearly a^ wich S SV? A" D Tf 3 T°, haVe b£en , f r * '4* 3t the ^ * Nor. wjcn, ±\&y 3y a. D. 163 1. The name of the author does not appear 3 P the 2 3 8 n ABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND H^T V. the fame period *. It is taken from a dramatic performance, en- titled, " Four Plays in One;" and Vanity therein is thus de- fcribed : — " I went then to Vanity, whom I found Attended by an endlefs troop of taylors, Mercers, embroiderers, feather-makers, furriers; All occupations opening like a mart, That ferve to rig the body out with bravery ; And through the room new fafhions flew like flies, Jn thoufand gaudy fhapes ; Pride waiting on her, And burily furveying all the breaches Time and decaying nature had wrought in her, Which ftill with art fhe piec'd again, and ftrengthened. 1 told your wants ; fhe fhew'd me gowns and head-tires, Embroider' d wafte-coats, fmocks feamed through with cut-work, Scarfs, mantles, petticoats, muffs, powders, paintings, Dogs, monkies, parrots ; all which feem'd to fhew me The way her money went." We have a work in manufcript -f, compiled towards the con- clufion of the fourteenth century, for the ufe of three young ladies, the daughters of a knight of Normandy, who had lerved in the wars at Poiclou; It contains advice and dire&ions for the regula- tion of their condua through life; and feveral curious paffages oc- cur therein, relative to drefs ; and the firft is introduced in the fol- lowing manner:— " Fair daughters, I pray you that ye be not the firft to take new ihapes and guifes of array ot women of ftrange countries." He then inveighs againft the wearing of fuperfluous quantities of furs upon the tails of their gownes, on their hoods, and upon their lleeves ; and adds, " the ufe of great purfiles and flit coats" was firft introduced by wanton women, and afterwards adopted by the Princeffes and ladies of England, and with them he wifhes it may continue. He laments that the love of ufelefs fafhions was fo prevalent among the lower claffes of the people, faying, " there is a cuftom now among lerving-women of low eftate, which is very common, namely, to put fur upon the collars of their garments, which hang down to the middle of their backs : they put fur alfo upon the bottom, which falls down about their heels, and is daubed with * By Beaumont and Fletcher; firft t In the Harleian Library at the Bri- publiihed in 1647. tifll Mufeum, marked 1764. the PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. the filth : but, where the fame garment is fitted to the body, it is made fingle," that is, without any lining : Jines 14072 and 14073. multiplied^ FART V* HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. 243 multiplied, and brought into much more general practice. In the reign of Elizabeth, according to Stubs *, the ladies had the art to die the hair of various colours, and almoft to change its fubftance j and another writer, fpeaking of a fine lady, fays : " Lees me can make, that turn a hair that 's old, Or colour'd ill,, into a hue of gold -}>' Long hair was always efteemed beautiful :- it is not therefore to be- wondered at, when Nature had been deficient in her bounty, that the ladies mould have had recourfe to art. This expedient, like- that of colouring the locks,, was not fo necefTary,. as to make the- practice of it very common, until the fafhions demanded the expo- lition of the hair; and then it was unavoidable. The French fatirift advifes the ladies, in this dilemma, to have recourfe to the dead, and ftrip their heads of fo necefTary an ornament J : this,, he feems to hint, might be added to their own, without the deception being vifible ; but does not appear to have the idea of a complete peruke, which was introduced in the eourfe of time, and is become exceed- ingly fafhionable, even in the prefent day. With refpect to the- wearing of borrowed hair, when the deficiencies of nature or accident render it necefTary, is a practice certainly not fubject to reprehen- Hon on the one hand, nor to ridicule on the other. Yet, in one or other of thefe lights the fubjecl: has been ufually treated. A reli- gious writer of the fifteenth century §, declaiming againft the various^ adornments of the hair, and the numerous arts ufed to ftimulate or correct its growth, to alter its colour, or to put it into forms al- together unnatural, fays: "To- all thefe abfurdities, they add that of fupplying the defects of their own hair, by partially or totally adopting the harvefl; of other heads." He then proceeds gravely to relate the following ludicrous anecdote, which he feems to have con- fidered as a juft judgement from God|| upon the unfortunate woman who was the fufferer : " It happened,, during the time of a public procefTion at Paris, which had drawn a great multitude of people together, that an ape leaped upon the head of a certain fine lady who was prefent at the fhow ; and, feizing upon her pep/us, or veil,, tore it from her head, and, with the veil, her peruke alfo of falfe hair, fo that it was difcovered to, the crowd, that the beautiful adorn- * Anatomic of Abu/es. Lond! 1^9^. f The Paftoral of Rhodon and Iris, printed in 163 l. \ Romance of the Rofej lines J4063— 4.. § In a work entitled, Svmma in Vir- ttttes Cardinales, et vitia illis contraria, . Printed at Paris, by Ulric Gering and. G. Maynyal, A. D. 1480. II Difponente Deoj ut extimo. . ments \ .244 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. ments of her head were not her own ; and by the very means fho expected to attract the admiration of the beholders, Ihe excited their contempt and ridicule." Philip Stubs, to whom we have juft referred, fpeaking of the ladies of this country in his day, fays j " And, not being content with their own hair, they buy other hair, either of horfes, mares, or any other beafts, and die it of what colour pleafes themfelves. _ I have heard of one who, meeting a little child with very fair hair, inveigled her into the houfe, promifed her a penny, and fo cut off her hair." The zeal of this fatirift feems often to have hurried him beyond the bounds of reafon ; but, in the prefent in- llance, one would hope that his informant had led him from the truth*. A dramatic author f, contemporary with Stubs, has introduced the wife of Simon Eyre, contriving how to make herfelf fine, when her hulband Ihould be chofen fheriff of London ; and Ihe fays to her fervant, ff Canft thou tell where I may buy a good hair:" to which he replies, . But to return once more to our Knight. In order to deter his fair daughters from painting their faces, he recounts a horrible legend of a fine lady, who was moft grievoufiy punifhed in hell, became fhe had « popped and painted her vifage to pleafe the fight of the world." I apprehend that William de Lorris refers to the painted com- plexions of the ladies, when he fpeaks of their - mining outfides which they put on by way of artifice f. In the Book of Health f , cited fome few pages back, among variety of other receipts, I meet with the following, fpecified to be for the purpofe of cleaning the face, and to give it a beautiful colour, either white or red : You are to take, of fweet almonds blanched, five drams ; of gum dra- eant and of gum Arabic, three drams each ; of the flower of beans, of the root of the fleur-de-lis, and of dried filh-glue, one ounce each - let the glue be firft melted in water, and then let all the in- gredients be mixed together, and fimmered over the fire until they come to the confiftency of an ointment ; which you are thus directed to ufe • " Anoint thy face with this compofition at night, and walh it the 'next morning with warm water." How far the efficacy of this application may anfwer the fpecification, I cannot take upon me to affcrt : the ingredients feem to be fimple and harmleis ; and, for ought I know, this fecret may eventually be worth more atten- tion than any other part of my work. m < Face-painting derives its origin from high antiquity. It has been pratftifed nearly in every age, and alfo univerfally decried in moft civilized nations ; and yet it has conftantly maintained its ground, though not very extenfively I mould hope, even to the pre- fent day. It was carried by fome ladies to a moft dangerous length, and efpecially about the commencement of the laft cen- turv The following curious catalogue of wafhes, perfumes, and ointments, is recorded by a dramatic author of that period : the poet is fpeaking of the fame lady, whofe wardrobe makes lo conii- * Anatomh of Abufes. See above. % MS in the Britifli Mufeum, marked t leur luifans fuperfices, M.35- See above * Dent ih ufent far a, tifices, detablc FART V. HABITS OP THE TEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 249 derable a figure a few pages back * : the fame fervant is fuppofed to be fpeaking, and fhe goes on thus : ** Nor in her weeds alone is fhe fo nice, But rich perfumes fhe buys at any price : Storax and fpikenard fhe burns in her chamber, And daubs herfelf with civit, mufke, and amber. With limbecks, vials, pots, her clofet 's fill'd, Full of ftrange liquors, by rare art diftill'd. She hath vermillion and antimony, Ceruffe and fublimated mercury ; Waters fhe hath to make her face to fhine, Confections eke to clarifie her fkin ; Lip-falves, and clothes of a pure fcarlet dye, She hath, which to her cheeks fhe doth apply ; Ointment, wherewith fhe pargets o'er her face, And luftrifles her beauties' dying grace. She waters for the Morphews doth compofe, And many other things as ftrange as thofe ; Some made of daffodils, and fome of lees, Of fcarwolfe fome, and fome of rinds of trees ; With centory, four grapes, and tarragon, She maketh many a ftrange lotion. Her fkin fhe can both fupple and refine With juice of lemons, and with turpentine; The marrow of the hernfhaw and the deer She takes likewife, to make her fkin look clear. Sweet water fhe diftills, which fhe compofes Of flowers, of oranges, woodbine, or rofes. The virtues of jeflimine or three-leaved grafTe She doth imprifon in a brittle glafs : With civit, mufke, and odours far more rare, Thefe liquors fweet incorporated are. Lees fhe can make that turn a haire that 's old, Or colour'd ill, into a hue of gold. Ofhorfes, bears, cats, camels, conies, fnakes, Whales, herons, bittourns, ftrange oils fhe makes ; With which dame Nature's errors fhe corrects, Ufing art's help to fupply all defects." And, in another dramatic performance, written fomewhat earlier the principal character fays : " Faith, ladies, if you ufed but, on * See page 257. f The Fleire, by Edward Sharpham, London, 1615. 3 S mornings 250 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. J»ART V. mornings when you rife, the divine fmoak of this celeftial herb 7o- baccoy it will more purine, clenfe, and mundifie your complexion, by ten parts_, than your diffolved mercurie, your juice of lemmons, your difti lied fnailes, your gourd waters, your oile of tartar, or a thoufand fuch toyes !" — And, in another *, a lady wilhes for " frefh oil of talc," becaufe, Ihe fays, C£ the ceruffes are too common." In the time of Edward the Second, a contemporary writer com- plained, that the fquire endeavoured to outfhine the knight in the richnefs of his apparel; the knight, the baron ; the baron, the earl; and the earl, the king himfelf \. This vanity became general among the people of every clafs at the commencement of the next reign ; which gave occalion to the Scots, who, according to a modern au- thor %, could not afford to be fuch egregious fops as the Englifh were, to make the four well-known lines quoted in the margin §. Towards the middle of the fourteenth century, this kingdom was blefTed with tranquillity and much plenty, in confequence of her many victories ; great quantities of garments lined with fur, of fine linen, of jewels, of gold and lilver plate, and rich furniture, the fpoils of Caen, Calais, and other foreign cities, were brought into England ; and every woman of rank obtained a fhare of them. " Then," fays our author ||, " the ladies of this country became haughty and vain in their attire, and were as much elated by the acquifition of fo much finery, as the ladies of France were dejected by the lofs of it." The frequent tournaments and fhows of pomp, exhibited during the reign of Edward the Third, contributed not a little to promote a fucceffion of new fafhions : thefe fpectacles, from their nature, re- quired fomething novel, and even fantaftic, to give them the appear- ance of greater grandeur, and to excite the furprize of the multitude. The knights who attended them were ufually habited with fplendid de- corations of gallantry, and endeavoured to outftrip each other in bril- liancy of appearance. In one of the wardrobe-rolls of Edward the Third, orders are given to prepare for the king, upon an occafion of this kind, a tunic and a cloak with a hood, on which were to be em- broidered one hundred garters, with buckles, bars, and pendants of filver *J ; alfo a doublet of linen, having round the fkirts, and about * City Madam. By Philip Mafienger, printed A. D. 1659. f Monk of Malmefbury, in the Life of Edward the Second, p.- 1153. % Dr. Henry's Hiftory of Great Britain, Vol. IV. .587. § Long beirds hertilefs, Peynted iv/ioods ivitlefs, % Gay cores gracelefs, Maketb England thritelefs. |j Thomas Walfingham, p. 168. ^[ Cum c garteriis patatis cum bouckr, barris, et pendentibm de argento. the PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. the fleeves, a border of long green cloth, worked with the reprefen- tations of clouds, with vine branches of gold, and this motto, dic- tated by the king *, " It is as it is." Upon another tunic made alfo for the king's own ufe, this diftich was commanded to be wrought ; Hay, Hay, the wythe fivan : By godes Joule I I am thy man -}\ ii Thefe tournaments are attended," fays a contemporary writer %, " by many ladies of the firft rank and greater!: beauty, but not always of the moft untainted reputation. They are dreffed in party-co- loured tunics, one half being of one colour, and the other half of another; with fhort hoods, and liripipes, or tippets, which are wrapped about their heads like cords § ; their girdles are handfomely ornamented with gold and filver ; and they wear fhort fwords, or daggers, before them in pouches ||, a little below the navel ; and, thus habited, they are mounted on the fineft horfes that can be pro- cured, and ornamented with the richer!; furniture^." Chaucer reproaches his compatriots with a two-fold abfurdity refpect- irtg their drefs ; for the fuperfluity on one hand, and for the inordinate fcantinefs of it on the other. "Alas!" fays he, "may not a man fee, as in our days, the finful coftly array of clothing ? and, firft, in fuch fuperfluity as maketh it fo dear, to the harm of the common people; not only the coft of embroidering, the difguifed indenting, or barring, oundying, palyng, or bending, and fuch like ** wafte of cloth in vanity ; but there is alfo the coftly furring in their gownes, fo much pouncing with the chifel to make holes, fo much daggyng with fharp fheers ; with the fuperfluity in length of the forfaid gowns, trayling in the dung and in the mire, on horfeback and alfo on foot, as well by the men as by the women. All that trailing is verily, as in effect, wafted, con- fumed, tread bare, and rotten with the dung, rather than given to the poor, to the great damage of the faid poor folk, and that in fun- dry ways ; that is to fay, the more the cloth is wafted, the more it muft be loft to the poor people from the fcarcenefs; and, moreover, if they would give fuch pounced and dagged clothing to the poor * Diftamine regis. _ |) Habentes cultelhs, quos daggerios* f See Warton's Hiftory of Englifh vulgar iter dicunt, in powcbiis dejuper impo- Poetry, vol. If. p. 251. fuis, &c. % Henry Knighton, col. 2597. fab % The mafcullne appearance of the A.D. 1348. . ladies, thus habited, has not efcaped tha § Cum caputiis brevibus et liripiis (pro. cenfure of the contemporary writers, liripipiis) ad modum cbordarum circa caput ** Semblable in the original. advolutis, &c. people 2$2 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. people, it is not convenient to wear for their eft-ate, nor fufficient for their neceflity, to keep them from the diftemperance of the firma- ment ;" meaning, that it is not proper for their rank, nor fufficiently warm to defend them from the feverity of the weather. " Upon the other fide, to fpeak of the horrible difordinate fcantinefs of clothing, fuch as the cut floppes, or hanfelynes, that, through their fhortnefs, cover not the fhameful members of man, to wicked intent ; alas ! iome of them fhew the bofle of their fhape in the wrapping of their hofen ;" that is to fay, their hofe were conftrucled to fit lb clofely upon their limbs, thatthofe parts, which decency required to be concealed, appeared to the view. Thefe hofen, which anfwered the purpofe of breeches, he tell us, were parti-coloured, and divided, or, as he calls it, " departed in the middle ;" fo that one thigh was of one colour, and the other thigh of another : therefore, he fays, " in departyng of their hofen, in white and red, it feems as if half of their privy members were flead * ;" and of the hinder parts he fays, that they " were hor- rible to be feen." — The fame kind of fhort jackets and clofe-adjufted breeches, departed of different colours, and every way anfwering the defcription of our author, occur continually in the painted manu- fcripts of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries ; and, though per- haps their appearance is not quite fo decorous as they would be, if the one was longer, and the other fuller, I cannot help thinking the Poet has been far too fevere upon the fubjecl: ; though thus much may be faid in his behalf, that the difcourfe is put into the mouth of a clergyman -)~, whofe bufinefs it was to reprove the vices and the follies of the age. "The outrageous array of the women" he only cen- fures in a general way ; and, of courfe, his obfervations are of no ufe to me %. The good effects arinng from the fumptuary laws eftablifhed by Edward the Third muft have been of a temporary nature : they feem to have loft much of their force at the time of his death ; and were totally fet afide in the voluptuous reign of Richard the Second, his grandfon. The example of the monarch himfelf operated ftrongly againft them ; for, he was exceedingly fond of pomp, and fo ex- * " And, if fo be," continues the au- + Of the parfon in the Canterbury thor, " that they depart their hofen in Tales. other colours, as white and blue, or % Warton, in his Hiftory of Englifti white and black, or black and red, and Poetry, fays, that the long trains, worn by fo forth, than it feemeth as by variance the ladies in the reign of Richard the of colour, that half part of their privy Second, caufed a divine to write a traft members be corrupt by the fire of Saint contra caudas dominarum, againft the tails Anthony, or by the canker, or other of the ladies 5 vol. III. p. ,324. fuch mifchance." penfive ? ART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. penlive in jiis drefs, that he had one coat, or robe, which was fo enriched with gold and precious ftones, that it coft no lefs than thirty thoufand marks; which was a prodigious fum at that time*. The courtiers imitated the king, and fome of them are even though. t: to have exceeded him in fplendour. Sir John Arundel, according to Holinfhed, had fifty-two new fuits of apparel for his own perfon, of cloth of gold or of tiffue^ Through the medium of the cour- tiers, the fpirit of extravagancy diffufed itfelf to perfonages of in- ferior note, and found its way to the loweft clafTes of the peo- ple : which gave occalion to a writer of that period to make the following obfervations, which, in fact, are repetitions of what we have feen a few pages back : " At this time," fays he, " the vanity of the common people in their drefs was fo great, that it was impoffible to diftinguifh the rich from the poor, the high from the low, the clergy from the laity, by their appearance. The fafhions were continually changing, and every one endeavouring to outfhine his neighbour in the richnefs of his habit and the novelty of its form £; n The fubfequent lines by Harding are to the fame effect ; which he gives us on the authority of Robert Ireleffe, clerk of the Green Cloth to Richard the Second : " There was great pride among the officers ; And of all men, furpafling their compeers, With rich array, and much more coftious $ Than was before, or fith||, and more precious. Yeomen and gromes, in cloth of lilk arayed, Sattin and damalk, in doublettes and gownes ; In cloth of grene, and fcarlet for unpayed, Cut worke was great, bothe in court and townes, Bothe in men's hoodes, and alfo in their gownes ; Broudur and furres, and goldfmith's worke, all newe, In many a wyfe, each day they did renewe **." The author of an anonymous work called the Eulogium, who pro- bably wrote about this time, fpeaks to the fame purpofe : " The commons," fays he, " were beflbtted in excefs of apparel ; fome in wide furcoats reaching to their loins ; fome in a garment reach- ing to their heels, clofe before, and Urutting out on the fides, * Holinflied, fol. mo. f Ibid fol. 1015. X Hen. Knyghton. $ Coftly. || For Jithcncf, or Jince. ^[ For embroidery. ** Harding's Chronicle, chap. 195. 3 T fo $54 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART fo that at the back they make men feem like women ; and this they call by a ridiculeus name, goivne ; their hoods are little, tied under the chin, and buttoned like the women ? s, but fet with gold, filver, and! precious ttones ; their lirripippes, or tippets, pafs round the neck, and, hanging down before, reach to- the heels, ah jagged ; they have another weed of filk, which they call a pakock ; their hofe are of two colours, or pied with more, which, they tie to their paltocks, with white lachets called herhts, without any breeches ;. their gir- dles are of gold and filver, and Ibme of them worth twenty markes ;. their lhoes and pattens are fnouted and piked more than a finger long, crooking upwards, which they call crackowes, refembling de- vil's clawes, and fattened to the knees with chains of gold and filver." Henry the Fourth, foon after his aceeffion to-the throne, revived the fumptuary ftatutes of Edward the Third ; but, if they had then been ftrenuoufly carried into execution, Thomas OcclifF, who wrote in- the reign of that monarch, would not have had the occalion of comv plaint which he exhibits againft the extravagance of drefs exiftent in. his time *. This poet, after enumerating many things requiring amendment, comes to the fubject of apparel; " and this," fays he, " in my thinking, is an evil, to fee one walking in gownes of fcar- let twelve yards wide, with fleeves reaching to the ground, and lined' with fur, worth twenty pounds, or more ; at the fame time, if he had only been matter of what he paid for, he would not have had enough to have lined a hood." — He then proceeds to condemn the- pride of the lower clafTes of the people, for imitating the fafhions and extravagances of the rich; "and certainly," fays he, " the great lords are to blame, if I dare fay fo much, to permit their dependants to imitate them in their drefs. In former time, perfons of rank were known by their apparel; but, at prefent, it is very difficult to dif- tinguitti the nobleman from one of low degree." He then conliders the " foule watte of cloth" attendant upon thefe luxurious fafhions,. and afTures us, that no left than a yard of broad cloth was expended* for one man's tippet. Returning to his former argument, that no- blemen ought not to encourage their, fervants in the ufage of fuch extravagant drefles, he fays, " If the matter mould ftumble as he walks,, how can his fervant afford him any affiftance, while both his hands have full, employment in holding up the long fleeves with. * In a poem entitled, Diahgus inter the Harleian Library at the Britifli Mu- Gccliff et Mendicum, or a Dialogue be- feura, marked 4826. tween Oqcliff ajid a Beggar, MS. in whick; *ART Y* HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND'. which his arms are encumber'd * ?" He then adds, that " the taylors muft foon fhape their garments in the open field, for want of room to cut them- in their own houfes ; becaufe that man is beft refpecled who bears upon his back, at one time,- the greateft quantity of cloth and of fur." F rom the following obfervation, the Reader may, perchance, fufpecl: the reformift of loving his belly more than his back : " In days of old," fays he, " when men were clad in a more fimple manner, there was abundance of good eating f; but now they clothe them- ielves in fuch an expenfive manner, that the former hofpitality is ba- 'nimed from their houfes." He then laments, " that a nobleman cannot adopt a new guife,. or fafhion, but that a knave will follow his example ;" and, fpeaking in commendation of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafter, he informs us, that " his garments were not too wide, and yet they became him wondroufly well." " Now,, would to God!" continues he, " this wafte of cloth and pride were exiled from us for ever ; for, now we have little need of brooms in the land to fweep away the filth from the ftreet,. becaufe the fide-fleeves of penylefs grooms will gather it up,, if it mould be either wet or dry." He then addrefles himfelf, by apoftrophe, to his country, and advifes a reformation of all thefe abufes: his fatirical conclufion, however, I hope, is inapplicable to any time but his ownv " If," fays he, " a man of abilities, meanly clad, Ihould feek accefsto the prefence of a nobleman, he would be denied on the account of his clothing ; but, on the contrary, a man who, by flattery and the meaneft fertility, can procure himfelf the moft fafhionable apparel,, he mall be received with great honour J." I. have feen. a fiiort anonymous poem, pr ballad. §,. written,, I * They are thus deferibed by another author : Maxime togaiorum cum profundi's et latis manicis> iwcatis vulgarit'er- pokys, ad modum bagpipe formatis : wearing gowns with deep wide fleeves, commonly called /o^.lhaped like a bagpipe, and worn indifferently both by fervants and matters. They are aha rightly denomi- nated devils' receptacles, receptacula dce- moniorum recle dici; for, whatever could be ftolen, was popped into them. Some were fo long and wide, that they reached to the feetj others to the knees $ and. were full of Hits. As the fervants were bringing up pottage and fauces, or any other liquors, thofe fleeves would go into them, and have the firft tafte. And all that they could procure was fpent to clothe their uncurabre carcafes with thofe Pokys or fleeves, while the reft of their habit was fhort. Vita Ric. II* p. 172; f Grete boujhold Jluffidoff vitayle. % Take the paffage in the authors own words : ■ If a loighte verteuous be narronjoe clothed, Ami to a lordis court he now-a-dayes go, , His company is to the folkis lotbid ; Men pajjyn by hym both too andfreo, And f come hym, for be is arrayed fo r But he tbat flatter cati, or ben a baitde,. And by thoo two frefeb aray bym gete, Tt holdyn is to hym honoure and lande ; &rc." § MS, in the Harleian Library, at the Britim.Mufeum, marked 372. believe,. a ^6 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART T« believe, about the middle of the fifteenth century, which opens with the following addrefs to the beaux of this country : ** Ye proud gallants heartlefs, With your high caps witlefs, And your fhort gowns thriftlefs, Have brought this land in great heavinefs." Tn the next ftanza he reproves them for wearing " long-peaked fhoes," and long hair reaching Into their eyes : what follows is not for my prefent purpofe. Long hair feems to have been generally admired by the young and gay: it was condemned by the grave, and often preached againft by the clergy. Our poet is joined by John Rous the hiftorian, who reproaches the beaux of his time with luf- fering long hair to conceal their foreheads, where they had, at their baptifm, been marked with the fign of the crofs *. But Henry the Eighth, according to Stow, gave peremptory orders for all his attendants and courtiers to poll their heads ; and fhort hair then became fafhionable, and continued fo, at leaft for fome confiderable time -K . . - Soon after the middle of the fifteenth century, it appears from a Continental writer J, that the ladies left off the falhion of wearing tails to their gowns, and, in their room, fubftituted borders of let- tice and martins' fkins, or of velvet, and other materials, as wide, and fometimes wider, than a whole breadth of velvet. They wore on their heads Huffed rolls, in the fhape of round caps §, gradually di- miniming, to the height of half an ell, or three quarters, as fome had them, but others wore them lefs, with loofe kerchiefs at the top, hanging down behind as low as the ground, but they were not always fo long. They began to wear their girdles of filk much larger than they were accuftomed to do, with the clafps || more fumptuous alfo ; and collars or chains of gold about their necks, much neater f than' before, and in a greater variety. At this time likewife, the men began to clothe themfelves lhorter than ever, fo that one might perceive the fhape of their poftenors and privy members, in like manner as it is cuftomary to clothe apes ; a thing very unfeemly and immodeft. They alfo flit the fleeves of their robes and pourpoints, or doublets, to fhow their large, loofe, and white fhirts ; they wore their hair fo long, that it was an mcum- * J. Roflii Hiftoria, p. 131. § Bourreletx. a manure de bonnet rand. + Hiftory of England, p. 571. II Les Jerreures. % Enguerande de Monftrelet, who ^[ Plut ctmtemtnt. pkces this change A. D. 1467. brance VART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. Ztf brance, not only to their faces, but to their eyes*; and they co- vered their heads with high bonnets of cloth, a quarter of an ell or more in length. All of them, as well knights as efquires, wore chains of gold of the moft fumptuous kind. Even boys -J- wore dou- blets of lilk, fatin, and velvet ; and almoft all, efpecially in the courts of princes, had points ^ at the toes of their lhoes, a quarter of an ell long and upwards And upon their doublets alfo, they wore large waddings called Maboitres, to give a greater appearance of breadth to their fhoul- ders : which things were exceedingly vain and difpleafing in the light of God. Moreover, he, who to-day was fhortly clothed, was habited to- morrow down to the ground. Thefe fafnions became fo common, that every mean upftart § imitated the drefs of the rich and the great, whether fhort or long, without paying the lean: regard to the expence, or to what belonged to their rank ||. At the commencement of the lixteenth century, Alexander Bark- ley publifhed a book, entitled, " The Ship of Fooles of the Worlde^[," which he tranflated from the Latin. This work con- tains many fevere reflections upon what he calls " newe fafhions and difguifed garments." It is embellifhed, if I may be permitted to ufe the term, with rude cuts from blocks of wood ; and upon one of them we fee a fool, with his cap and bauble, oppofed to a fpruce beau of the time ; and at the bottom thefe lines : " Draw nere, ye courtiers and galants difguifed, Ye counterfait catiffs, that are not content As God hath you made ; his work is difpifed : Ye think you more wife than God Omnipotent. Unliable is your ways, that fhewes by your garment ; A fool is knowen by his toyes, and by his coat ; But by their clothing now we may many note.'* * "They fuffered," fays Paradin, '* their hair to grow after the Nazarene fajliion, and to fuch a length, as to obftruft their fight, and cover the greater part of the face." Hiftoire de Lyons, p. 271. f far let*. % Poulaines. Paradin is fuller upon this fubject : " The men wore Ihoes," fays he, " with a point before, half a foot long ; the richer and more eminent per- fonages wore them a foot, and princes two feet long : which was the moft ridiculous thing that ever was feen 3 and, when men became tired of theft pointed fhoes, which were called pou- laines, they adopted others in their ftead, denominated duck-bills, having a bill, or beak, before, of four or five fingers in length. Afterwards, afiuming a con* trary faihion, they wore flippers, fo very broad in the front, as to exceed the mea- fure of a good foot." Hift. Lyons, p. aj?X* § Petit compaignon. || Chronique de Monftrelet, Iaft chap- ter but one. % Printed by Pinfon, A. D. 1508. 3 U Thht HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. • This farcaftic cut brings to my mind a frontifpiece adopted by another author*, in which is reprefented an Englishman naked, holding a bundle of cloth in one hand, and a pair of fhears in thfc other, undetermined in what fafhion he fhall have his garment made, and fuppofed to be faying, " What do I care, 'if all the world me faile ? I will have a garment reach to my taile : Then am I a minion, for I weare the new guife. The nexte year after I hope to be wife, Not only in wearing my gorgeous aray, For, I will go to Learning a whole fummer's day." At the clofe of the fifteenth century, the drefs of the Englifli was exceedingly fantaftical and abfurd, infomuch, that it was even difficult to diftinguifh the one fex from the other. The men wore petticoats over their lower clothing ; their doublets were laced in the front, like a woman's flays, acrofs a ftomacher ; and their gowns, were open in the front to the girdle, and again from the girdle to the- ground, which they were generally long enough to touch, if not to trail' upon. Thefe gown's had fometimes ftrait lleeves, nearly divided at the elbows, to {hew the fhirts, and fometimes loofe wide fleeves, reaching to the wrifts, without any divhion -f\ Soon after the acceffion of Henry the Eighth, the petticoats above-* mentioned were laid, alide, and traitfes, or clofe hofe, fitted exactly to the limbs, were almoft univerfally adopted. And to the breeches, which were ufually connected with the clofe hofe, there was added an artificial protuberance, exceedingly grofs and indecent, which, however, formed part of the drefs, from the fovereign himfelf to the loweft mechanic ; and the fafhion, it is faid, originated in France. Long after a fenfe of decency had. banifhed this obfcene appendage from the common habit, it was retained by the comedians as a iubjedt for licentious witticifms J. To * Andrew Borde, to bis work enti- tled " An Introduction to Knowledge" printed A. D. 1542. • f . The Reader will find all thefe pecu- liarities upon the plates appropriated to the fifteenth century. % In French, it was called gaudipife j and, corruptly,- with us, the codpiece. If any thing can be more ridiculous than the introduction of. fb filthy a protube- rance, it muft be the ufe to which it was fometimes appropriated. The drefs of John Winchomb, the famous clothier of Newbery, in which he went to Henry the Eighth, is thus defcribed in his Hif- tory : — He had on " a plain ruflet coat ; a pair of white kerfie flopps, or breeches, without welt or guard 3 and ftockings of PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ES-GL4N-D. ,5^ «K TO k m A k %. V ' pf o r , the ftraltnefs °f the lower clothing, they bombafted " asBulver calls it, their doublets, and puffed them out above the moulders fo that they were 'exceedingly um- berfome; and this was only adding to the mabo.tres, or wmg-like T^tkTTV* M th r b r' K \ e ° f M -ft-let:'thisdrelwa: herhe r " M -T dum ^ and mconvenient j for, fays Fitz- herbert, Mens feryants, to whom the faihions of their 'matters- defend with their clothes, have fuch pleytes upon theyr Ss and I ruffes upon their fleeves above they/ elbowes, tha?, yf hevr matter or themfelves hade never fo great neede, they could not fi one flmte to hurt theyr enemyes, t-yll they had cafte of theyr cote or cut of theyr fleeves." The ladies alfo followed the example of ™ffi£fl * ^ a kmd ° f doubkt high wings and puffed fleeves ; and this garment was in full fafhion at the begmni™ of the reign of Queen Elizabeth *. oegmnmg The next remarkable innovation was the trtmk- breeches or flops which were gradually fwelled to an enormous fize : the e breech- ' we are told, were fluffed out with rags, wool, tow or ha r ,d fometimes, indeed with articles of a more cumbrous na u e if ti e ftory re ared by Hohngfted be founded upon fca ; wherein' a m a m Cud to have exh.bited the whole of h,s bed and table furniture taken from thofe extenfive receptacles. The Reader will find them in turvTutfn^l? ° f P™S reffion ' °" «J» Pbtes for the feventeenth c'e" rll'^t fft perfeA.on.upon the hundred and thirty-ninth platef. The lad e , alfo on their parts, extended their garments from the hips with > foxes' tails and drolls, as they were called , but find ng that, by fuch moderation, they could keep no pace with the vaft pro? tuberanceof the trunk flops, they introduced the great and ftatdv vardingales, or fardingales, which fupetfeded afl form"? mven- fTafed gaTC P ° Wer ° f *P earin S as ^ g e as dtey The vardingale afforded the ladies a great opportunity of difplay- the fame piece, fewed to histlopps, which dum, that over the feats in the Pari!,- marked 2014 6 ddte ° n this memorandum is not „t I find t?e following curious notein a JTStfT ' ^ ' *** ** iS ^ Harleian MS. marked 980 : " Memoraor ttABITS OP THTE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. mg their jewels, and the other ornamental parts of their drefs, to the utmoft advantage, and, for that reafon, I prefume, obtained the fuperiority over the clofer habits and the more fimple imitations of Mature; and what, indeed, was the court-drefs very lately, but the vardingale differently modified, being compreffed before and behind, and proportionably extended at the fides ? Bulver, to whom 1 have feveral times had occafion to refer, gives us the following anec^ dote relative to this unnatural habit -.—When Sir Peter Wych was ambaffador to the Grand Seignor from king James the Firft, his lady was with him at Constantinople ; and the Sultanefs, having heard much of her, defired to fee her : whereupon, Lady Wych, accompanied with her waiting women, all of them neatly dreffed in their great vardingales, which was the court-drefs of the Englifh la- dies of that time, waited upon her Highnefs. The Sultanefs received her with great refpect ; but, wondering-much at the extenfion of her hips, enquired if that ihape was peculiar to the women of England : to which the Lady replied, that the Englifh women did not differ in lhape from thofe of other countries ; and, by explaining to her the na ture of the drefs, convinced the Sultanefs, that fhe and her com- panions were not really fo deformed as they appeared to be *. — A very fplendid fpecimen of the court- vardingal, with its adornments, is given upon the hundred and forty-fecond plate. At the clofe of the fixteenth century, Philip Stubs, an author I have already introduced to the Reader feveral times in the courfe of this chapter, publifhed a book entitled " The Anatomy of Abufes." He has not in this work confined his reflections to the fubjecT: of drefs, but drawn a general picture of the manners of the times in which he lived : he feems, indeed, to have been a man of a gloomy difpofition, for he has deepened the colouring upon all occafions with a fombre pencil, and enveloped the whole mafs in a cloud of vice and deformity. What relates to apparel, exclufive of the fe- verity of his cenfure, is exceedingly curious, and, as the book itfelf cannot eafily be procured, I fhall detail it the more minutely, and illuftrate feveral paffages with coincident defcriptions from other writers -f*. He affures us, that no people in the world are " fo curious in new fangles," as thofe of this country ; and, fpeaking " of coffly fhirts in England," he fays, " Their fhirts, which all ina manner do wear, for, if the nobility or gentry only did wear them, it were more to- lerable, are either of cambric, holland, lawn, or elfe of the nneft * Pedigree of the Englifh Gallant, page 347. f It was printed A.D. 1595. cloth PART V. HABITS OP THE TEOPLE OP ENGLAND. cloth that may be got ; and thefe kind of fhirts every one now doth wear alike, fo as it may be thought our forefathers have made their bands and ruffs, if they had any at all, of groffer cloth and baler fluff, than the worft of our fhirts are made of now-a-days. And thefe fhirts, fometimes it happeneth, are wrought throughout with needle-work of hlk and fuch like, and curioutiy ftitched with open feams, and many other knackes befides ; infomuch as I have heard of fhirts that have colt, fome ten millings, fame twenty, fome forty, fome five pounds, fome twenty nobles, and, which is horrible to hear, fome ten pounds a-piece ; yea, the meaneft fhirt, that com- monly is worn of any, doth coft a crown, or a noble, at the leaft ; and yet this is fcarcely thought fine enough for the nmpleft perfon that is." — He then makes feveral reflections on the fubject, which lead him to the following digreffion : " For, this their curiofity and nicenefs in apparel tranfnatureth them, as it were, and maketh them weak, tender, and infirm, not able to abide fuch bluftering itorms and lharp fhowers as many other people abroad do dady bear. I have heard my father and other wife fages affirm, that, in his time, within the compafs of four or five fcore years, when they went clothed in black or white frize coats, in hofen of houfewife's garzie of the fame colour that the fheep bare them; the want of making and wearing of which cloth., together with the exceflive ufe of filks, velvets, fatins, damafks, taffetaes, and fuch like, hath and doth make many thoufands in England to beg their bread ; of thefe ho- fen fome were ftrait to the thigh, and other fome a little bigger; and, when they wore fhirts of hemp or flax, but now thefe are too grofs, our tender flomachs cannot eafily digeft fuch rough and hard meat, men were ftronger, more healthfull, fairer complexioned, longer lived, and, finally, ten times hardier, than we be now." " Of great ruffs in England," he fays, " they have great and mon- ffrous ruffs made either of cambric, holland, lawn, or of fome other fine cloth ; whereof fome be a quarter of a yard deep, fome more, and very few lefs : they ftand a full quarter of a yard, and more,, from their necks, changing over the moulder-points inftead of a pen- tife ; bu<-, if it happen that a fhower of rain catch them, before they can get harbour, then their great ruffs ftrike fail, and down they fall as difhclouts fluttering in the wind, or like windmill fails. There is a. certain liquid matter which they call ftarch*, wherein the devil * A..D. 1564, Miftrefs Dingham van was the firft that publicly taught the art den Piaffe, bom at Teenen in Flanders, of ftarching ; her price being four or five came to London with her hulband, and pounds from each fcholar, and twenty followed the profeflion of a Jiarcher, fhillings addition for learning how to wherein {he greatly excelled. She met feeth, or make the ftarch. Stow's An- with much encouragement among the no- nals, fol. 869. bility and gentry of this country, and 3 X hath 202 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND PART V. hath learned them to wafh and dive their ruffs ; which, being dry, will then ftand ftiff and inflexible about their necks : this ftarch they make of divers fubltances ; fometimes of wheat-flour, of bran, and of other grains, fometimes of rootes, and fometimes of other things, of all colours and hues, as white, red, blue, purple, and the like ;"* but yellow ftarch feems to have been the moft eftiniable : 4 4 Indeed it is hard," fays Bulver, 44 to derive the pedigree of the cobweb- lawn-yellow-ftarched ruffs *, which fo much disfigured our nation, and rendered them fo ridiculous and fantaftical ; but it is well that faQiion died at the gallows with her that was the fuppofed inventrix of it-f-." — But, to return to Stubbs. He adds : 4 4 There is alfo a cer- tain device made of wires, crefted for the purpofe, and whipped over either with gold, thread, lilver, or filk ; and this is called a fuppertaffe, or under-propper. This is applied round about their necks, under the ruff, upon the outfide of the band, to bear up the whole frame and body of the ruff from falling or hanging down. Almoft none is without them ; for, every one, how mean or fimple foever they be otherwife, will have of them three or four a-piece for failing ; and, as though cambrick, Holland, lawne, and the nnefh cloth that can be got any where for money, were not good enough, they have them wrought all over with filk work, and, paradventure^ laced with gold and lilver, or other coftly lace ; and, whether they have the means £ to maintain this gear withal, or not, it is not greatly- material, for they will have it by one mean or other, or els they will fell or mortgage their land on Suter's Hill §, Stangate hole, and Salifbury plains, with lofs of their lives at Tyburn on a rope ; and, in fure token thereof, they have now newly found out a more mon- itrous kind of ruff, of twelve, yea lixteen, lengths a-piece, fet three or four times double ; and it is of fome fitly called 44 three fteps and an * Pedigree of the Englifh Gallant, p. 536. — In the play of Albumazar, pub- lillied A. D. 1614, Armelina afks Trin- calo, ** What price bears wheat and Jaffron, that your band is fo ftiff and yellow?" — In the Blind Lady, by Sir Ro- bert Howard, printed A. D. 1661, Peter fays to the chamber-maid, " You had once better opinions of me, though now you wafh every day your beft handker- chief with yellow Jiarch."— And, in the Parfon's Wedding, by Killigrew, pub- iifhed A. D. 1664, mention is made of " yellow Jiarch and wheel-fardingales" being " cried dowae." f He alludes to Mrs. Turner, a phy- sician's widow, who had a principal hand in the poifoning of Sir Thomas Overbury. This vain and infamous wo- man was not, as Bulver lays, the inven- trix of the yellow ftarch : it originated in France, and was introduced by her into England. It appears, that fhe went to the gallows with a yellow ruff round-, her neck, and, after her execution, the fafhion of wearing fuch ruffs rapidly declined. Howel's Letters. X Onr author ufes the Latin word unfa in this place. § Probably for Shooter's Hill. half PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 263 half to the gallows." It is to thefe kind of ruffs that the madman al- ludes in the play of Nice Valour, by Beaumont and Fletcher, where he fays, " Or take a fellow pinn'd up like a miftrefs, About his neck a ruff like a pinch'd lanthorn, Which fchool-boys make in winter." And the chambermaid to Peter, in the Blind Lady * r ' i Or thy ftarched ruff, like a new pigeon-houfe." Speaking of the coftly hofe, or breeches, in England, Stubs fays : < e Then they have hofen, which, as they be of divers faftiions-,. fo are they of fundrie names : fome be called French hofe, fome Gallie hofen, and fome Venetian. The French hofe are of two divers making ; for, the common French hofe, as they are called, contain length, breadth, and fidenefs -Jr fufficient ; and they are made very round. The other contain neither length, breadth, nor fidenefs proportionable, being not paft a quarter of a yard on the fide ; whereof fome be paned, or Jiriped, cut, and drawn out, with coftly orna- ments with cantons % adjoined, reaching down beneath the knees. The Gallie hozen are made very large and wide, reaching down to their knees only, with three or four gardes apiece, laid down along the thigh of either hofe. The Venetian hozen reach beneath the knee to the gartering-place of the leg, where they are tied finely with filken points, and laid on alfo with rows or gardes, as the other be- fore. And yet, notwithstanding, all this is not fufficient, except they be made of filk, velvet, fatin, damafk, and other precious fluffs befides : yea, and every one fcrving-man, and other inferior to him in every condition, will not ftick to flaunt it out in thefe kind of hofen, with all other apparel fuitable thereto ; and fo that it is a fmall matter to bellow twenty nobles, ten pounds, twenty pounds, forty pounds, yea, an hundred pounds, upon. one pair of breeches; and yet this is thought noabufe neither." " They have alfo boot-hofe, which are to be wondered at ; for they be of the fineft cloth that may be got, yea, fine enough to make any band, ruff, or fhirt of, needful to be worn : yet this is bad ynough, to wear next their greafie boots ; and would to God ! this were all too ; but they muft be wrought all over, from the gartering-place upward, with needle-work clogged with filk of all colours, with birds, fowls, beafts, and antiques-, puriirayed all over in fumptuous fort, X I take thefe to be ornamental tubes* or tags, at the ends of the ribbands and laces, which were attached to the extre- mities of the breeches. yea* * Printed A. D. 1661. See the firft note in the preceding page. That is, I prefumej a proper fuUnefs at the Jide. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. yea, and of late, embroidered with gold and filver very coftly, lb -that I Jiave known the very needle-work of one pair of thefe boot- hofe to (land, fome in four pounds, fix pounds, and fome in ten pounds. BendeSj they are made fo wide to draw over all, and fo long to reach up to the waift, that as little or lei's cloth would make one a •reafonable large fhirt." " Then," continues my author, out a great plume of feathers of divers colours peaking on the top of their heads, not unlike coxcombs' or fools' baubles, if you lift ; and yet, notwithftanding, thefe fluttering fails and feathered flags are fo advanced in England, that every child hath them in his hat or cap : many get a good living by dying and felling of them." — Thefe far- caftic remarks of the fatirift, however juft they might be, produced no good effect ; for, the feathers continued to be in fafhion the whole of the fucceeding century, and, among the military, are retained even to this day *. * In the Mufe's Looking-Glafs, a co- medy written by Tho. Randolph, who died A.D. 1634, there is a fcene where a featherman, and a woman-haberdaiher of fmall wares, cenfure Rofcius the player on account of the profanity of his pro- feffion ; to which he replies : " And live not you by fin ? Take away Vanity, ye both may break : What ferves your lawful trade of felling pins, But to join gew-gaws,, and to knit to- gether Gorgets, firip neckcloths, laces, ribbands, rufFs, And many other fuch like toys as thefe, To make the baby Pride a pretty puppet ? And now, fweet Feathennan, whote worth, tho' light, OVrweighs your conscience, what ferves your trade, But to plume Folly, to give Pride her wings, To deck Vain-glory ? fpoiling the Pea* cock's tail, To adorn an idiot's coxcomb." 3 Z The 2JO HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND, PART V. O The wearing of rapiers, fwords, and daggers, was in general ufage ; and Stubs tells us, that they were 44 gilt twice or thrice over the hilts with good angel gold ; others, at the leaft," adds he, 14 aredamafked, varnilhed, and engraven, marvelous goodly ; and, leaft any thing fhould be wanting to fet forth their pride, the fcabbards and fheaths are of velvet, or the like ; for, leather, though it be more profitable,, and as leemly, yet will not carry luch a majefty or glorious fhowe as the other." Our fatirift, Stubs, was by no means a man of gallantry ; for, his cenfures are equally pointed and fevere againft the fafhionable habits of the ladies, as againft thofe of the gentlemen. His reflections upon the head-dreffes of the former we have feen a few pages back ; and the following quotations will prove, that the other parts of their clo- thing were equally, in his opinion, at leaft, deferving of condemna- tion : 44 The women," fays he, " ufe great ruffs, or neckerchers, of hollande, lawne, cambric, and fuch cloth, as the greateft thread fhall not be fo big as the leaft hair that is : and, leaft they fhould fait down, they are fmeared and ftarched with ftarch ; after that, dried with great diligence, ftreaked, patted, and rubbed very nicely, and fo applied to their goodly necks, and, withal, underpropped with fur ertaffe?, as I told you before, the ftately arches of Pride *'„ They have alfo three or four orders or degrees of minor ruffs placed gradatim, one beneath another, and all under the mafter-devil rufK The fkirts, then, of thefe great ruffs are long and wide, every way pleated and crefted full curioufly. Then, laft of all, they are either clogged with gold, lilver, or filk lace of ftately price, wrought alt over with needle-work, fpeckled and fparkled here and there with the fun, the moon, the ftars, and many other antiques ftrange to behold : fome are wrought with open work down to the midft of the ruff, and further ; fome with clofe-work, fome with purled lace, and other gew-gaws, fo clogged, fo peftered, that the ruff is the leaft part of itfelf. Sometimes they are pinned up to their ears, and fometimes they are fuffered to hang over the fhoulders, like flags, or windmill fails, fluttering in the air." 44 The women," continues he, 44 alfo have doublets and jerkins, as the men have, buttoned up to the breaft, and made with wings, welts, and pinions, on the fhoulder points, as man's apparel in all refpects ; and, although this be a kind of attire proper only to a man, yet they blufh not to wear it. 4 4 Their gowns be no. lefs famous than the reft j for, fome are of * In his defcriptioa of the men^ large ruffs ; fee pages z6l, afa. filk, I 1 ART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. ft*>i filk, fome of velvet, fame of grograin, fome of tafFata, fome of fcar- let, and fome of fine cloth, of ten, twenty, or forty fhillings the yard ; but, if the whole garment be not of filk or velvet, then the lame muft be layed with lace two or three fingers broad all over the gown, or elfe the moft part ; or, if it be not fo, as lace is not fine enough, now and then it muft garded with great gards of velvet, every gard four or five fingers broad at the leaft, and edged wit^i coftly lace : and, as thefe gownes be of clivers colours, fo are they of divers fafhions, changing with the moon ; for, fome be of the new fafhion, fome of the old ; fome with fleeves, hanging down to their Ikirts, trailing on the ground, and caft over their ihoulders like cow-tails ; fome have fleeves much fhorter cut up the arm, drawn out with fundry colours, and pointed with filk ribbands, and very gallantly tied with love-knotts, for fo they call them ; fome have; capes, reaching down to the middle of their backs, faced with vel- vet, or elfe with fome fine wrought tafFata at the leaft, and fringed about very bravely; and fome are plaited and crefted down the back, wonderfully, with more knacks than I can exprefs. " Then, they have petticoats of the beft cloth that can be bought, and of the fineft die that can be made ; and fometimes they are not of cloth neither, for that is thought too bafe, but of fcarlet, gro~ grain, taffata, iilk, and fuch like, fringed about the ikirts with filk fringe of changeable colour. But, what is more vain, of whatever the petticoat be, yet muft they have kirtles, for, fo they call them, of filk, velvet, grograin, tafFata, fatten, or fcarlet,, bordered with gards, lace, fringe, and I cannot tell what. " Then, their nether-ftocks, or ftcckings , in like manner, are either of filk, jarnfey, worfted, cruel, or, at leaft, of fine yarn, thread, or cloth, as is poffible to be had ; yea, they are not afhamed to wear hofe of all kinds of changeable colours, as green, red, white, ruffet, tawney, and elfe what not ? Then, thefe delicate hofen muft be cun- ningly knit and curioufly indented, in every point, with quirks, clocks, open feams, and every thing elfe accordingly : whereto they have corked fhoes, pinfnets, pantoffies, and flippers, fome of black velvet, fome of white, fome of green, and fome of yellow, fome of S.panifh leather, and fome of Englifh, ffitched with filk, and em- broidered with gold and filver all over the foot, with other gew-gaw* innumerable." — The cork fhoes here mentioned continued 1 in fafhion, among the ladies, the greater part of the feventeenth, century. In. Bulver's time*, they were called chopping: the foles were made very thick, and the heels fo high, as to elevate the wearers four or. * About the year itfjo, five HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. five inches from the ground. " This falfe and lying appearance,"* fays that author, " is a fault very ordinary in Spain, where the wo- men, for the moft part, if not all of them, do thus diffemble ; which made a traveller lay, that in Spain almoft all the women were tall, either by nature or by art : the latter commonly prove no more than half wives ; for, at the wedding-night, it may be perceived that half of the bride was made of gilded cork*." — The ufe of cork fhoes was alfo very common in England : they are alfo frequently fpoken of in the old plays ; and particularly, in one entitled Willy Beguiled ; where a country girl fays, V Upon the morrow after the bleffed new year, I came trip, trip, trip, over the Market Hill, holding up my petti- coats to the calves of my legs, to mow my line coloured ftockings, and how trimly 1 could foot it in a new pair of corked fhoes I had bought -f~." But, returning to Stubs. <£ Their fingers," continues he, ft muft be decked with gold, filver, and precious ftones ; their wrifts with bracelets, and armelets of gold and coftly jewels ; their hands covered with fweet warned gloves" — I apprehend he means perfumed gloves^ which were very commonly ufed by perfons of difrinclion at this period : thefe gloves, he tells us, were " embroidered with gold and iilver — and they muft have their looking-glaifes carried with them wherefoever they go." The cuftom of wearing looking-glaifes by the ladies was very general in the feventeenth century ; and the beaux alio ufed to carry fuch trinkets in their pockets J. " Then," fays Stubs, " muft they have their filk fcarfs caft about their faces, and fluttering in the wind, with great taffels at every end, either of gold, or filver, or filk, which, they fay, they wear to keep them from fun-burning; when they ufe to ride abroad, they have malks and vifors made of velvet, wherewith they cover their faces, having holes made in them againft their eyes, whereout they look ; fo that, if a man knew not their guife, he would think that he met a monfter or devil §." But the indignation of my author feems to have been particularly excited againft thofe ladies, who, he tells us, " are not afhamed to make holes in their ears, whereat they * Pedigree of the Englilh Gallant, printed A. D. 1606, Ingeniofo, defcri- p. 550. bing Amoretto, a beau, fays, " He is one f Printed A. D. 1623. that will draw out of his pocket a look- X Thus, in the Prologue to the Care- ing-glafs," &c. lefs Shepherdefs, printed A. D. 1656 : § Thefe mafks covered only half of the " . , A country lafs, face, and were, indeed, exceedingly un- Wear by her fide a watch or looking- handfome. See the reprefentation of one glafs." of them at the bottom of the hundred and —And, in the Return from Parnaflus, fortieth plate. hang PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. *73 hang rings and other jewels of gold and precious ftones." The cuftom of boring the ears, fo common in the prefent day, appears at that time to have been in its infancy. Ear-rings were alfo worn by the beaux and petit-maitres of the feventeenth century ; but I do not find that the ufage was at any time very general. I t n the middle of the fame century, the women brought up a fafhion which is very juftly reprobated by Bulver, and other authors of the time ; and this was, making the bofom-part of their garments fo low, that the breafts appeared entirely na- ked, and the back part of the Ihoulders was alfo left bare in like proportion: this he calls " an exorbitant and fhameful enor- mity;" and at the fame time adds, " that it was prejudicial to the health, by expofing them too much to the cold, fo that fome of , them loft the ufe of their hands and arms, by obftinately perfevering in the practice of this indelicate fafhion About the fame time, black patches, cut into all kinds of forms, were introduced, and ftuck about the face and the neck according to the tafte and fancy of thofe who chofe to wear them ; and, in many inftances, I doubt not, they muft have made an appearance ridiculous x in the extreme. To the beft of my recollection, this fafhion has not been totally dif- continued more than forty years. The affectation of parade and gaudy clothing was not confined to* the laity : it extended among the clergy, and was even carried by them to fuch extravagant lengths, as frequently to render them ob- noxious to the fevereft cenfures. That thefe cenfures originated in truth, will readily be granted ; but, at the fame time, they appear,, in many inftances, to be grofsly overcharged, and will rarely, I be- lieve, admit of general application. Some little has been faicl upon this fubject in a former chapter ; and, in the quotations that fol- low, I fhall confine myfelf entirely to fuch parts as relate to drefs and perfonal ornaments. The fatirical author of the poem called M Pierce the Plowman," treats the priefts with great feverity. " Some of them," fays he, " inftead of fwords and rich buckles ^, have a pair of beads in their hands, and a book under their arm ; but Sir John and Sir Jeffery hath a girdle of filver, a fword, or a large knife, ornamented with gilt ftuds§, and a walking ftaff||, that fhould be his plough- fraff." A little afterwards, fpeaking of Antichrift, he fays, "With him came, above a hundred proud priefts, habited in paltocks, with picked fhoes, and large knives, or daggers ^f." * Pedigree of the Englilh Gallant, || A Portus — P. Ploughman, PafTusXV. p. 543. ^[ The paltock was a fliort jacket ap- f See page 121. propriated to the laity: the picked Jfices % Bafelards and brochis. were alfo forbidden to be worn by the § A bafelard, or a balhcke-knife, with clergy, as well as great knives or daggers* lottons over-gylt, Ibid. Taft. XVIL 4 A The HABITS 3? THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V, The ploughman, in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, is fuller to the purpofe, and infinitely more fevere; lie has given us the follow- ing defer iption of a Prieft, i( That hye on horfe wylleth to ryde, In glytterande gold of great araye, I painted and portred all in pryde, No common knyght may go fo gaye ; Chaunge of clothyng every daye, "With golden gyrdels great and fmall, As boyflrous as is bere at baye : Al fuche falfhed mote nede fall." To this he adds, that many of them have more than one or two mitres, embellifhed with pearls like the head of a queen, and a ftaff of gold, fet with jewels, as heavy as lead. He then fpeaks of their appearing out of doors with broad bucklers and long fwords, or with baldrics about their necks, inftead of Holes, to which their bafelards were attached : ie Bucklers brode and fweardes longe, Baudryke with bafelardes kene." He then accufes them with wearing of gay gowns of fcarlet and green colours, ornamented with cutwork, and for the long pikes upon their Ihoes. He laments, that a monk mould be called a lord, and ferved upon the knees like a king. — " The monk," continues the fatirift, c< is as proud as a prince in his drefs, meat, and drink, and efpecially fuch a one as wears a mitre and a ring, who is well clothed in double worried, and rides upon his courfer like a knight, with his horfes and his hounds, and has his hood ornamented with jewels # ." — He afterwards fpeaks of the monks as being fond of fine clothing, and of quaint and curious attire. There is a fhort poem, or ballad, in manufcript, preferved in the Harleian library-^, written, as appears by the hand, in the reign of Henry the Sixth. It confifts of fix ftanzas, of four lines each ; the two firft relate to the extravagance of the laity in their drefs, and the four laft to the pride and voluptuoufnefs of the clergy. The au- * Broches and ouches ; and, in the Of double worfede y dyght, and down to the poem called Pierce Ploughman's Creed, heels ; a great chorl of a friar is thus de- His kyrtel of dene -white clenlycbe y fewed ;" fcribed : &c. His cope, that biclypped (covered) him wel, \ At the Britiih Mxifeum 5 and it is dene was it f olden, marked 37a. thor ? ART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. thor therein accufes them with wearing wide furred hoods, and advifes them to make their gowns fhorter, and the toniure wider upon their crowns. Their gowns he alfo condemns, becaule they were plaited ; and cenfures them for wearing fhort fluffed doublets, in imitation of the laity *. Skelton, poet laureat in the reign of Henry the Seventh, re- proaches the pride and immorality of the clergy, and has given us the following farcaftical lines: — the bifhops, fays he, " Ryde, with gold all trappy'd, In purpall and pall belapped, Some hattyd and fome cappyd, Richly and warm wrapped, God wotte to their grete paynes ! In rochetts of fyne reynes, Whyte as Mary's milk, And tabards of fyne fylke, And ftyroppes with gold beglozyd ; &c. Nor was there lefs room for complaint in the fucceeding reign, efpecially during the adminiftration of Wolfey, who feems to have greatly furpafled all his predeceflbrs in pomp and luxury ; yet this proud prelate eftablifhed excellent laws in the college that he founded, by which the clergy who officiated in them were reftrained to ufe fuch garments and ornaments only, as were plain and decent, and becoming the character of an ecclefiaftic ; and, particularly, they were forbidden to adorn their clothing with any curious or coftly furs X. The propenftty of perfons of low eftate to imitate the famions of thofe above them, has been adverted to feveral times in the courfe of this chapter ; and now, by way of conclufion, I fhall add a ftiort ftory from Gamden, in which this propensity is very properly ri- diculed. " I will tell you," fays the venerable Antiquary, " how- Sir Philip Calthrop purged John Drakes, the fhoemaker of Norwich, in the time of Henry the Eighth, of the proud humour which our people have to be of the gentleman's cut. — This Knight bought on a * The firft ftanza of this poem, which rel at Cambridge. "YVarton., Hift. Poet, may ferve as a fpecimen of the ftyle, is vol. II. p. 130. given page 256". + Ne magis pretiofis aut fumptuojis utantur f MS. in the Harleian library, marked pellibus. Stat. Card. Wolfey, Coll. Oxon. 225a. — Skelton was laureated at Oxford given A. D. 1525. MS. in the Cottonian about the year 1489; and, in the year library, marked Titus, F. 3. J493, he was permitted to wear his lau- time 2j& HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND PART T> time as much fine French tawney cloth as mould make him a gown, and fent it to his taylor's to be made. John Drakes, a fhoemaker, of that town, coming to the faid taylor's, and feeing the Knight's gown-cloth lying there, and likeing it well, caufed the taylor to buy for him as much of the fame cloth, at the like price, to the fame intent ; and, further, he bad him make it in the fame fafhion that the Knyght would have his made of. Not long after, the Knyght comming to the taylor to take meafure of his gowne, he perceived the like gown cloth lying there, and allced the taylor whole it was.. ' It belongs,' quoth the taylor, 6 to John Drakes, who will have it made in the felf-fame fafhion that your's is made of.' ' Well, faid the Knight, c in good time be it : I will have mine as full of cuts as thy fheers can make it.' { It fhall be done,' faid the taylor. Where- upon, becaufe the time drew near, he made hafte to finifh both their garments. John Drakes had no time to go to the taylor's till Chrift- mas-day, for ferving of his cuftomers, when he had hoped to have worn his gowne ; perceiving the fame to be full of cuts, he began to fwear at the taylor for making his gown after that fort. ' I have done nothing,* quoth the taylor, ' but what you bad me ; for, as Sir Phi- lip Calthrop's gown is, even fo have I made your's.' 4 By my latchet,' quoth John Drakes, * I will never wear a gentleman's fafhion again *.* * Camden's Remains, page 198. CHAP. PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND, *77 CHAP. IV. The Drefes of the feveral Perfonages defcribed in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales briefly conjidered. — The Knight. — The Squire. — The Squire's Teoman. — The Frankeleyn. — TheReve. — The Merchant.— The Doflor of Phyflc. — The Serjeant at Lam. — The Clerk of Oxford. — The Monk. — The Frier. — The Canon. — The Sompnour. — The Pardoner. — The Miller. — The Shipman. — The Ploughman. — The Burghers. — The Priorefs.—The Wife of Bath. — The Carpenter's Wife.—- The Clothier s Widow — Her Wedding- Drefs. — Spinning- Maidens defcribed. — Droll Defcription of Elynour Run- ning.— The Country Alewife.—A fender Waifi fajhionable. — Tight Lacing condemned. — Poetical Defcription of Ladies richly habited.-— A brief Recital of the Ancient and Modern Foppijh Dreffes. THE different characters exhibited by Chaucer, in his Can- terbury Tales, are drawn with a mafterly hand : they are, un- doubtedly, pictures of real life, and throw great light upon the manners and cuftoms of the age in which the Poet ilourifhed. It is, indeed,, much to be wifhed, that he had been more particular in dekribing the dreries of the feveral perfonages he has introduced ; however, the little he has done is not to be omitted in a work of this 4 B. kind : 278 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. 'PART V. kind : I fliall, therefore, avail myfelf of all he has faid upon the fub- ject, and endeavour to elucidate fome paffages that are rather ob- fcure, by fuch affiftance as I may derive from other authors. The Poet begins with J The KNIGHT. He is introduced as recently returned from the wars upon the Continent, and is defcribed as a man of valour and good breeding, but his apparel, to ufe the original expreffion, " wa3 nothing gay :" he wore a gyppoti, that is, a pourpoint, or doublet,^ of fuftian, which was befoUed with his haubergeon, or coat of mail *. The SQUIRE, the Knight's companion, was his fon, a young man of twentyyears of age, i( a lover and a lufty bachelor :" he had his locks curioully treffed f. Refpecling his drefs, it isonly faid, that his gown was fhort, with wide fleeves, and embellifhed with embroidery, like a meadow, 'full of white and red flowers £. The Squire's YEOMAN, and the only fervant he had attending on him, " bore a mighty bow." His habit was a coat, and a hood of green-coloured cloth ; beneath his girdle appeared a bundle of fharp bright arrows, plumed with peacock's feathers § ; and, upon his arm he wore an ornamented bracer, or bandage ||. The ap- pendages to his drefs were, a fword and a buckler hanging on the one fide, and a handfome dagger upon the other ^f. He had alfo a bau- dricke, or fafh, of green, to which a horn was fufpended, and a chrippker of poliihed filver upon his brealt **. " From his drefs/' * Chaucer gives this reafon : For he was laie come fro his i>yage, And . u P°° their fleeves, have wanted about thefe North parts, reprefentrng certain plays and interludes re- ^ •Lxhrf? aJeft ? ^ Pllili P. *nS the formalities of the Srt*! according to Warton, were " family-minftrells, or QT» r r conftantl y d.itmguiflied by their mafters' livery or badge. -In confluence of the above remonftrance, Sir Franc, Lake was enjoined to correct his fervant fo offending* lTi;, n KT e << tlmeS L, 1 ' aySa , nauthor who wrote in the r'eign of queen Elizabeth, « a nobleman's houfe was a commonwealth? in itfejfe" but, fince the retemmg of thefe caterpillers," mining the vacant payers, - the credite of noblemen hath 'decaied, an 1 the/ Z hougm to be covetous, by permitting their fervants, which cannot hve of themfelves, and whome, for neernefs, they wi l not maintain to live at the devonon or almes of other men, paffing fromTount Jfe to counrne, from one gentleman's houfe to anotherf o«| femce ; which » a kind of beggarie ; who, indeede, 'to fpeake mo e truhe, are become beggers for their fervants : for, commonlie the good wil men beare to their lordes makes them drawe the ftrino s ttyZ,, P d U no?l°' eXtendtheirl,beralkieS t0 tllCm ' WllerC ° therW ' fe Under the appellation of minftrels, no doubt, was included all fuch perfons as ftudied mufic profeffionally, and performed for pay! and Drintrf A b f) ^ Ber ' Ch!lmbrfai ^ * A fcarce little pamphlet, entitled 1 . x?^ 64 °i "A Second and Third B aft of Retreit J, Y" t n on , s "' And we learn another part of their habit from the following ftory, recorded in a MS we have frequently had occafion to refer to, written towards the latter end of the fourteenth century :— « An efquire, of good family and fortune, who, being a voun* man, was inclined to appear like a beau ; and, making one at a feftival where a larle company of the nobility of both fexes were aftembled, he came, fays the au- thor " clothed in a cote-hardy after the guyfe, fajliion, of Almayne, Germany ; and, having faluted the guefts, he fat down to dinner; when a knyght of « grete wor- ' fhippe ' well acquainted with his family, addreffed himfelf to him, and requefted to know what he had done with his < fedyll,' fiddle, or his < ribible, meaning perhaps the harp, or the inttrument of raufic he profeffed to play upon. The young man af- filed him, that he was totally unacquainted with the pradice of any mufical inftru- ment < Then, Sir,' replied the Knight, < it is not fitting that you mould dero- gate fo much from the honour of your anceftors, as to counterfeit the array of a minftrel, without being able to fupply his place Ihofe I have known of your fa- milv maintained their rank, and would haveblufhed to have appeared m fuch coun- terfeit difguifements. 1 The young gentleman took the rebuke in good part, re- tired from the company, gave the coat-hardy to his fervant, and apparelled himfelf as becoming his ftation, and*, returned. All who were prefent commended his wif- dom, in prudently fubmitting to the counlel of his friend. Harl. MS. 1764. See a farther account of this MS. in page 238. ; . + Reprefentations of all theie perf ormances frequently occur in the illuminated MSS. whence feveral examples are given in the firft and fecond volumes of the Man- ners and Cuftoms of the Engliih. commencement FART Y» HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. commencement of the thirteenth century *, which contains a fhort Bible hiftory, embellimed with many curious paintings, there is one- picture reprefenting the daughter of Herodias in the prefence of He- rod ; but, inftead of dancing, according to our acceptation of the word, fhe is literally tumbling, or making a fomerfault, with her hands tapon the ground -f*. It is needlefs to inlift on the ufage of malks by the Grecian and Roman comedians ; the fact is well eftablimed ; but in this country, they probably made their firft appearance in the plays of miracles, as they were called, which were exhibited to the common people at the public feftivals, and alfo during the feafon of Lent. The Englifh Stage,, in its infancy, difplays a lamentable picture of ignorance and immorality; for, though the fubjects of the drama were chiefly felected from Scripture hiftory, yet the ludicrous man- ner in which thofe fubjects were treated,, and the daring impiety the* reprefentations of them frequently required,, are objects of admiration in the prefent day. One would think it impoffible to- enter into the head of a reafonable being, to perfonate the Deity ; or of an author, to make the creation of the Angels part of a ftage-fpectacle ; or, that God and the Devil fhould be oppofed in a quibbling dialogue, and the fpectators amufed by the blafphemous retorts of the latter, who, indeed, in variety of inftances, feems to have fupplied the place of a buffoon, being diftinguimed by an hideous malk, ludicroufly adapted, to the purpofe In the wardrobe-rolls of Edward the Third, cited by War- ton §, there is an. account of the drefles for furnifhing the plays or Iports of the king||, held in his caftle of Guildford at the feftival of Chriftmas ; and, on this occafion, there were expended eighty tunics of buckram, of various colours ; forty-two vifors of various limilitudes ; that is, fourteen of the faces of women,; fourteen of the faces of men,, with, beards; and fourteen heads * In Bibl. Harl. infig. 1527. f Another painting, reprefenting a girl tumbling upon her hand to the rou- fic, occurs in a MS. in the Cotton library, marked Domitian, A II. j which is nearly as ancient as that above-mentioned. \ In Skelton's Nigroraanfir, a moral interlude, played before King Henry the Seventh at Woodftock, and printed in 1504, one of the ftage-direcfions is, " En- ter Balzebub with a berde in Tur- pin's Hiftory of Charlemagne, chap, xviii, the Saracens appear, " babentes larvas bar bat as & cornutas damonibus coi*~ Jtmiles" that is, having bearded majks,. •with horns, like devils; and, in the oldU French romance, by Philip Moulkes, " J\t apries lui une barboire, Com diable cornu et noire ;" alluding td the mimic, or buffoon, having a bearded ma/k' black like a devil. § Hiftory of Englilh Poetry, vol. I. p. 238* This record is dated A. D. 1348. || Ad r faciendum ludos domini regis. 4 I ©f 3° 6 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF 'ENGLAND. PART T. of angels, made with lilver : twenty-eight crefts * ; fourteen mantles embroidered with heads of dragons ; fourteen white tunics, wrought with heads and wings of peacocks ; fourteen with the heads of fwans, with wings ; fourteen tunics, painted, with eyes of peacocks ; four- teen tunics, of Englifh linen, painted; and fourteen other tunics, embroidered with ftars of gold." From this inventory, I mould judge that the fports to which they belonged were rather of the maf- querade or mummery kind, than ftage-performances ; and refembled thofe pompous mows fo frequently exhibited in the reign of Henry the Eighth, in which the monarch himfelf ufually became an actor. In order to give the Reader fome idea of the manner in which they were conducted, I fhall lay before him the following defcription of two of thofe pompous pageants. In the firft year of his reign, according to Hall-}-, this king, " upon Shrove Sunday, prepared a goodly banket" — I give it in the authors own words — " in the parliament-chamber at Weft- minfter, for all the ambaffadours which were here out of di- verfe realmes and countries." — At night, " after the banket was ended," a fhow was prefented to the guefts, in the following order : mental derangement, mafquerades, or mummeries, may certainly be: included ; and an exhibition, of this, kind was preferred at the mar- riage of a young knight belonging to the royal houfehold §. " The: * Hall's Union, in the Life of Hen-- & dune demoifells de la royne, & tons., ry VIII, deux eftoient de hoftel du roy & de la. t February 13, A.D. 15.10. royne. Cronique de Jehan Froiflart A j Hall's Union, Hen. VIII. p. 11. vol. IV. chap. 52. § Ung jeune chevalier de Vermandoif,.' King," *ART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OE ENSLiRB. 30$ King," fays FroifFart, " caufed fix coats to be made of linen cloth, which were covered with pitch, for the purpofe of attaching to the cloth a fumcient quantity of fine flax, in form and colour refembling human hair." Thefe coats were privately prepared in a chamber be- longing to the palace. The king and five of his courtiers retired from the company, and, having undrefled themfelves to their mirts, were clothed in the linen coats, which were made to fit them very exactly ; and, when the apertures neceflary for the putting of them on were clofely fewed up*, '* they appeared," fays the hiftorian, " like favage men •f-, covered with hair from the head to the foot ;" and they were fo perfectly difguifed, that no one in the affembly could pof- fibly know them ; five of them were fattened the one to the other J ; and .the fixth, which was the king, marched in the front, and led them to the dance. The ftrangenefs of the fight foon brought a crowd about them ; and the duke of Orleans, who came into the hall at the fame time, being determined to fatisfy his curiofity refpecting their per- fons, inadvertently held a torch fo clofe to the drefs of one of them, that it took fire, and the flames inftantly communicated to the coats of the other four ; and the combuftible quality of their habits § ren- dered it impoffible for the fire to be eafily exftinguifhed, fo that they were burnt in a terrible manner : two of them died upon the fpot ; two more were carried to their own apartments, where they expired, in the courfe of two days, in dreadful agonies ; the fifth efcaped with, life ||, though much burnt, by detaching himfelf from his comrades, and running into the butler's office^]", which was near the hall, and plunging himfelf into a large copper veffel** full of water, ufed by the domeftics for warning the cups and difhes. The King was fortunately at a diftance when the calamity happened, talking to the duchefs of Berry, who, feeing the danger he was in, threw the train of her robe over him, and prevented any communication of the names from his unfortunate companions, which might otherwife have taken place during the confufion neceffarily occafioned by an accident fb fudden and fo dreadful in its effect *f~{\ — On the plate juft referred to, the * Et Hz furent dedans confuz et jointls, ice. f Hommes fauvages. The old tranfla- tion, by lord Berkley, runs thus : " They feemed like moyld ivode boufes,full of here, fro the toppe of the heed to the foivle of the foote." J Cinq, tous attaches lung a lautre, et k roy tout devant, qui les meno'it a la dance. I Le poix en quoi le lin eftoit attache a la toille, et le* chemi/es etoient feicbes & de- JiCcs, &c. || The two who died on the fpot were, Charles de Poicliers and the fan to the comte de Valentinois ) the other two were, the comte de Jouy, and Tvain de Foix j and the one who efcaped was the Seigneur de Nanthoillet. ^[ La bouteillerie. ** Ung cwvier. ft This calamitous accident happened in the twelfth year . of the reign of Charles the Sixth, or A. D. 1392. 4 K Reader HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART TV Reader will find two of thefe favage men ; and both of them are fup- pofed to be fuffering from the flames, which the illuminator could not otherwife reprefent than by long ftreaks of vermillion, and they are omitted in the engraving. The middle figure upon the fame plate is one of the domeftics attending upon the occalion ; and the profile of his malk is given in the circle at the bottom. In the 1 aft year of the reign of Edward the Third *, and on " the Sunday after Candlemas-Day, one hundred and thirty citizens of London, difguifed and well horfed, in a mummery with the found of trumpets, fackbuts, cornets, lhawns, and other mufical in- ftruments, and innumerable torches of wax, rode from- Newgate, through the Cheap, over the bridge, through Southwark, and fo to Kennington belide Lambeth, where the young prince, afterwards Richard the Second, remained with his mother. — In the firft rank rode forty-eight, habited like efquires, two and two : they were clothed in red coats and gowns of fay, or fandal, with comely vifors on their faces : they were followed by forty-eight like knights, clad in the fame coloured garments ; then fucceeded a Angle perfonage,. arrayed like an emperor ; and after him, at fome diftance, another, attired like a pope ; who was followed by twenty-four cardinals ; and, after them the rear was elofed by eight or ten others* with black un- handfome vifors, fuppofed to have been legates from fome foreign potentates. When the proceffion entered the manor of Kennington, , the mafkers alighted from their horfes, and entered the hall on foot; when the prince, his mother, the duke of Lancaster his uncle, the earls of Cambridge, Hertford, Warwick, and' Suffolk, with divers other lords, came into the- hall; and were faluted by the mummers. They then caft a pair of dice upon the table, inviting the prince and his company to play ; which being accepted, they fo caft the dice, , that the prince and his company were conftantly the winners. By this means, they prefented to the prince a bowl of gold and a cup of gold, and a ring of gold to the princefs ; and to the nobility at- tending they prefented ■,. in like manner-; a' ring of gold. Aftar which, they were feafted; and, the mufic being commanded to play,, the prince and the. lords danced with the mummers ; and; after the dance, the mummers were again invited, to drink; and then they took their leave, departing as they came Mafkings were very frequently made in - the. houfes - of perfons of opulence on joyful occafions, fuch as marriages, . chriftenings, the celebration of birth-days, and the like; but they feem, in few in„ * A.D. 1377. f Which was alfo a- fpecies. of mafquerade. % Stow'6 Survey of .London, page 70/. ftances 5 PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 3 IH fiances, to have been extended beyond the mummeries juft men- tioned, and confifted principally in the procefiion of different ch& rafters, who paffed in rotation before the guefts ; and, one or more of them having faid fomewhat in honour -of the folemnity, they departed as they came. ' The form and ornaments appropriated to the dreffes ufed in thefe mafkings depended upon the mere whim and caprice of the charac- ters concerned, without having any eftablifhed ftandard by which they might be regulated. It would be therefore abfurd to attempt the inveftigation of either, even if the materials for fuch a purpofe were as extenhve as, in reality, they are deficient. Mafquerades are very rarely reprefented in the paintings prior to the laft century ; and, when they are, they convey no favourable idea of the tafte of the times. Stow, fpeaking of the " fports and paftimes" ufually pra&ifed in* England at the feftival of Chriftmas, gives us the following informa- tion : " In- the King's court, wherever he chanced to refide at that time, there was appointed a lord of Mifrule, or matter of merry dif- ports ; the fame merry fellow alfo made his appearance at the houfes of every nobleman and perfon of diftindtion ; and, among the reft, the lord mayor and the fheriffs had fevcrally of them their lord of the Mifrule, ever contending, without quarrel or offence, who mould, make the rareft paftimes to delight the beholders. This pageant po- tentate began his rule at All-hallon eve, and continued the fame till the morrow after the feaft of the Purification: in all which fpace, there were fine and fubtill difguifings, mafksj and mummeries *" In country places the lord of the Mifrule was elected in a different manner ; his reign was fhorter ; and the time of his election appears, > from the following curious extract, to have been at a more genial feafon of the year than at London. This author f thought very dif- ferently from Stow refpecting thefe kind of amufements: he condemns them with much afperity •, and perhaps the Reader will think, with me, that he is perfectly juftified, if the pageantry really was conducted with that total want of decorum which feems to have been the foun- dation of his complaint. Sunday was, furely, an improper day for fuch gambols, and the church, or church-yard, for their exhibition ! — " Firft of all," fays he, " the wilde heads of the parifh, flocking together, chufe them a grand captaine of mifchiefe, whom they in- noble with the title of the Lord of t be Mifrule ; and him they crowne with great folemnity, and adopt for their king. This king, anoynted, * S* 7**& ^ ond f n > P- .79/ , _ . ^rgely quoted in the preceding, chapter,- ' f. Phihp Stubs ; from whom I have fo See page 260. chufetK, *HAB1TS OF THE ^EGPXE OF ENGLAND. PART % .chufeth foorth twenty, or forty, threefcore, or a hundred, luftie guttes, like to himfelfe, to wait upon his lordly majefty, and to >guarde bis noble peribn. Then, every one of thefe men he invefteth with his liveries, of green, yellow, or fome other light wanton co- llour. And, as though they were not gaudy ynough, they bedecke themfelves with fcarffes, ribbons, and laces, hang all over with .golde ringes, pretious ftones, and other jewels this done, they tie about either leg twenty or forty bells, with rich handker- chiefs in their hands, and fometimes laide acrofTe over their fhoulders and necks, borrowed for the moft part of their pretie Mopfies and loving Bellies. Thus, all thinges fet in order, they have their hob- by-horfes, their dragons, and other antiques, with their pipers and thundering drummers, to ftrike up the devil's dance withal. Then march this heathen company towards the church, their pipers piping, their drummers thundering, their ftumpes dauncing, their bells jyngling, their handkerchiefs fluttering about their heades like madde- men, their hobby-horfes and other monfters ikirmifhing amongft the throng; and in this forte they goe to the church, though the mi- nifter be at prayer, or preaching — dauncing and finging with fuch a confufed noife, that no man can heare his own voyce. Then, after this, aboute the church they goe againe and againe, and fo forth into the church-yard, where they have commonly their fommer-halls, their bowers, arbours, and banquetting-houfes fet up, wherein they feaft, banquet, and daunce, all that day, and., paradventure, all that night. And thus thefe terreftriall furies fpend the Sabbath day. Then, for the further innobling of this honourable lord, they have alfo certain papers, wherein is painted fome babblerie * or other of imagery worke ; and thefe they call my Lord of Mifrule's badges, -or cognizances : thefe they give to every one that will pay money for them, to maintain them in their heathenifh devilrie — and he, who will not fhow himfelf buxome to them, by giving them money, fhall be mocked, and flouted fhamefully ; yea, and many times carried upon a cowlsftaff, and dived over head and ears in water, or other- wife moft horribly abufed. And fo aflbtted are fome, that they not f only give them money, but alfo wear their badges and cognizances upon their hattes or their cappes openly. — Another fort of fantaftical tfboles there be, who bring the lord of the Mifrule and his accom- plices ; fome bread, fome good ale, fome new cheefe, fome old cheefe, fome cuftards, fome craknels, fome cakes, fome flaunes, fome tarts, fome creame and few of them came empty-handed. — Thefe 0. For habery.\ that is, Xomething fine and gaudy, fit only topleafe children. fpoxfc* TART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 313 fports correfpond fo perfectly with the May-games frequently alluded to in the dramatical writings of the laft century, that I cannot well define the difference. The fame author has, in a feparate fection, defcribed the May-games, and the manner of decorating and railing of the may-pole ; in which we find no mention of the hobby-horfes, morrice-dancers, and other performers ; which certainly formed part of the motley group. In a comedy entitled the Knight of the Burn- ing Perlle*, Ralph, one of the characters, appears as lord of the May, faying : " With gilded ftafF, and croffed fcarf, the May lord here I fland ;" and, after addrefling the group of citizens who are affembled round him, he adds : " and left aloft your velvet heads and flippin of your gowns, with bells on legs, and napkins clean unto your fhoulders tied, with fcarfs and garters, as you pleafe ;" &c. and of the hobby horfe we have a fuller account in the Vow-Breaker, a tragic-comedy-f-; where Miles, a clownifh fellow, fpeaks as follows : (i Have I practifed my reines, my carreeres, my pranckers, my ambles, my falfe trots, my fmooth ambles, and Canterbury paces ; and fhall the mayor put me bende the hobby-horfe ? — I have borrowed the fore-horfe bells, his plumes and braveries ; nay, had his mane new fhorn and frizelled. — Am I not. going to buy ribbons and toys of fweet Urfula for the, Marian ; and fhall I not play the hobby-horfe ? — Let not Jofhua know it by any means, he'll keepe more ftir with the hobby-horfe, than he did with the pipers at Tedbury bull-baiting: provide thou the dragon, and let me alone for the hobby-horfe." — And fome time afterwards he fays : — " Alafs, Sir, I come to borrow a few ribbands, bracelets, ear-rings, wyertyers^ filk girdles, and handkerchiefs for a morice I come to furniih the hobby-horfe." I fhall here introduce to the Reader a new character ; and I think that the peculiarity of his drefs entitles him to a place in this part of the work. He is reprefented, as he appeared at four different pe- riods, upon the feventy-firft plate. The properties belonging to this ftrange perfonage, in the early times, are little known at prefent ; they were fuch, however, as recommended him to the notice of his fu- periors, and rendered his prefence as a fort of requifite in the houfes of the opulent. Yet certainly, if the illuminators of the thirteenth century have done him juftice, he is an object calcu- lated to excite the pity and companion of the fpectators, rather than their merriment. He bears the fqualid appearance of a wretched ideot, wrapped in a blanket which fcarcely covers his naked- nefs, holding in one hand a ftick, with an inflated bladder at- tached to it by a cord, which anfwered the purpofe of a bauble j * By Beaumont and Fletcher, written f Written by William Samufon, and A..D. i<5n 3 firft publifhed A.D. 161J. printed A. D. 1636. 4 and HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART TV and thus we fee him depicted at the bottom of the plate. If we view him in his more improved ftate, as we find him at the left and right hand upon the fame plate, where his clothing is fomething better, yet his tricks, as we may judge from thofe fpecimens, are fo exceedingly barbarous and vulgar, that they would difgrace the moft defpicable Jack-pudding that ever exhibited at Bartholomew-fair * ; and even when he was more perfectly equipped in his party-coloured coat and hood, and completely decorated with bells -f, as the mid- dle figure fhews him to be, his improvements are of fuch a nature as feem to add but little to his refpe&ability, much lefs qualify him as a companion for kings and noblemen. In the fixteenth and feventeenth centuries, the fool, or, more properly, the jefter, was a man of fome ability ; and, if his charac- ter has been ftriclly drawn by Shakfpeare, and other dramatic writers, the entertainment he afforded confifted in witty retorts and farcaftical reflections ; and his licence feems, upon fuch occalions, to have been very extenlive. Sometimes, however, thefe gentlemen overpaffed the appointed limits, and they were therefore corrected or difcharged. The latter misfortune happened to Archibald Armftrong, jefter to king Charles the Firft. The wag happened to pafs a fevere jeft upon Laud, archbilhop of Canterbury, which fo highly offended the fuper- cilious prelate, that he procured an order from the King in council for his difcharge ; which, being fomewhat curious, is given in the margin * In one inftance he is biting the tail of a dog, and feems to place his fingers upon his body, as if he were Hopping the holes of a flute, and probably moved them as the animal altered its cry. The other is riding on a flick, with a bell, having a blown bladder attached to it. f This figure has a flick, furmounted with a bladder, if I miftake not, which is in lieu of a bauble, which we fre- quently fee reprefenting a fool's head, with hood and bells, and a cock's comb upon the hood, very handfomely carved. William Summers, jefter to Henry the Eighth, was habited " in a motley jerkin, with motley io/en." Hiflory of Jack of Newbury. + « It is, this day (March n, A. D. 1637), ordered by his Majefty, with the advice of the board, that Archibald Arm* ftrong, the king's fool, for certain fcan- dalous words of a high nature, fpoken by him againft the lord archbilhop of Canterbury his grace, and proved to be uttered by him by two witnefles, lhall have his coat pulled over his head, and be difcharged the king's fervice, and ba- niihed the court ; for which the Lord Chamberlain of the King's houfehold is prayed and required to give order to be executed." And immediately the fame was put in execution. Rufh worth's Collections, part II. vol. I. p. 4/. CHAP. PART V, HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND, 3*5 C H A P. VI. The fame Subjetl continued. — Dreffes peculiar to the Citizens of London. — Pilgrimages fajhlonable. — The Habit appropriated to the Pilgrims. — Sir John Mandevill in his Eafern Drefs. — Beards permitted to be worn by the Knights Templars. — The Habit of a female Pilgrim. — Black, ufual Colour for Mourn- ing — Not always ufed. — Mourning Habits defcribed. — Ordi- nances for Mourning, according to the Ranks of the Mourn- ers. — Blue the Emblem of Truth ; Green of Inconfancy.— Forejlers' and Rangers' Habits. — Habits of Dlf grace \ &c THE citizens of London, excluftve of their official liveries, were diftinguifhable by various temporary peculiarities in their drefs, which are occafionally alluded to by different authors, and efpecially by the dramatic writers of the feventeenth century. Howe, in his continuation of Stow's Annals *', informs us that, many years prior to* the reign of queen Mary, all the apprentices of London wore blue cloaks in fummer, and, in the winter, gowns of the fame colour : * Page 1039. the legs, except by fuch as were paft f In token, I prefume, of their fervi- fixty years of age 5 but, the length of tude, of which the blew goivn was a the cloak not being reftri&ed, they were mark. See page 302. Thefe gowns, it worn fo long, that they reached to the feems, might not be worn by any fer- fhoes. Howe, as above, vant, or others, lower than the calves of "Their ^ ! 6 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. " Their breeches and ftockings," adds he, " were ufually made of white broad-cloth, that is, round flops, or breeches; and their ftockings fowed up dole thereto, as they were all but of one piece." They wore flat caps, not only when at home and in their bufinefs, but alfo when they went abroad. Flat caps were not confined to the young men in their apprenticefhip : they were worn by the journey- men, and by their matters. They are condemned as unfeemly by Bul- ver *, who wrote in the time of the Commonwealth, and has given the form of one of them as it was ufed in his day f. Hence it came, that the citizens obtained the name of Flat -Caps, and were fo called, in derifion, by the pages of the court. To this Howe adds : " When the apprentices, or the journeymen, attended upon their matters and miftreffes at night, they went before them holding a lanthorn with a candle in their hands, and carried a great long club upon their fhoul- ders X ; and many well-grown apprentices uled to wear long daggers, in the day-time, at their backs or fides." From the author laft-mentioned we alfo learn, that, " about the tenth or twelfth year of queen Elizabeth, and for four or five years afterwards, all the citizens' wives, in general, were conftrained to wear white knit caps of woollen yarn, unlefs their hufbands were of good value in the queen's book, or could prove themlelves to be gen- tlemen by defcent; and then ceafed the wearing of minever caps, otharwife called three-cornered taps, which formerly were the ufual wearing of all grave matrons. Thefe minever caps were white, and three-fquare ; and the peaks thereof were full three or four inches from the head : but the aldermen's wives, and fuch-like, made them bonnets of velvet after the minever cap fafhion, but larger, which made a great mow upon their heads : all which," adds my author, " are already quite forgotten §. The ruffs worn by the city-ladies appear to have been diftinguifhed from thofe in general ufage. In the City Match ||, miftreis Scruple fays to Sufan Seathrift, * In his Artificial Changeling, printed where one of the characters fays, " So A D i6 I doubt not, fuffi- ciently juftify the painters. It was cuftomary fometimes to deep in them, as we learn from the romance of Lancelot du Lac ; wherein it is faid of Lyoniaus, that he went to bed, but " took not of his fhirt, nor his breeches ||." In another metrical romance quoted by Du Cange, there were brought to a young hero, previoufly to his being knighted, " a fhirt, breeches, ftockings of cloth, and Ihoes of Monpeller % ;" and in an old poem of the ballad kind, * Or, perhaps, rather drawers, as I have || Kofle nie fa chemife, ,»e fes braies. called them in a preceding chapter. See MS. Royal Lib. 20; d. iv. page 157. % " Ckemtfes & braies aportent a Renter f See page 254 of this work. Chauces de pailles, /olers de Mon- % Ne chemife ne braie. See page 3 19. peller." § " In poure cotes for pilgrimage to Girard de Vienne MS. Du Cange, Glofs. rome — no breche betwene j" Piers Plough- in voce Militare. man, fpeaking of the poverty of the pil- grims. MS. Harl. 2376. Launfa PAKT V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 337 Launfal, the principal character, appears at the beginning in a ttate of poverty, faying, " I would have gone to church to day, but I have no hofe nor flioes— and my breeches and my lhirt are not clean In the reign of Richard the Second, it appears, that breeches were univerfally worn in this country ; for, Henry Caftyde, defcribing to John Froiffart, the hiftorian, the rude manners of the Irifh, fpeaks of it as a great barbarifm, that they wore no breeches ; " Wherefore " fays the courtier, " I caufed breeches of linen cloth to be made for the four kings of Ireland, while I was there -f-." FroifTart alfo informs us, " that they were very common upon the Continent at the fame period ;" for, recounting the articles provided for the ufe of the French army, raifed with the intention of invading England, he fays, " they had hofe, Jhoes, and breeches %r Neither were^they'laid afide at the clofe of the fifteenth century, when the men wore long petticoats, by which they were totally concealed ; for, in a manu- script of that time, entitled, " the Boke of Curtafye," in which is included the duty of a chamberlayn, that officer is commanded to provide, againft his matter's uprifing, " a clene fherte and breche, a petycotte, a doublette, a long cotte, a ttomacher, hys hofen, hys focks, and hys fchoen," or Jhoes The Hanfelynes, or floppes, of Chaucer, according to the ufual ex- planation of his commentators, are a " fort of breeches ;" but, if due attention be paid to the pafTage as it ftands in the original, I think this definition will not be fatisfactory. It runs thus : "°thefe cutted floppes, or hanfelynes, that through ther Ihortneffe cover not the ftiameful members of man, to wicked intent ; alas ! fome of them mew the bofTe of ther fhape." But it does not appear to be conliftent with reafon, that they mould wear breeches fo fhort as not to cover their potteriors ; for, fuch a garment would be totally ufelefs. A writer coeval with Chaucer, from whom I have already largely quoted, makes the fame complaint, but couched in terms fomewhat different, faying : " The men wered too ihorte gownes, andfhewed ther brechis, the whiche is ther fhame ||." And the author of the Eulogium, who probably lived about the fame time, fays of the men : " thev have a weed of lilk, called a paltock, to which their hofen are fattened * To- Jay iochurche 7~nvelde have gon^ ButmeJ r a. We find there alfo ftockings of leather, of filk, of woollen, and of worfted, for men and for children ; Irilh ftockings, and the lower ends of ftockings, which are probably what are now called focks ; and, among the imports, hofe of crewel called Mantua hofe. and ftockings of Wadmol. The co- lours of the ftockings feem to have been as various as the materials. Yellow was very falhionable in the fixteenth century || ; red is fre- quently feen in the century following ; which, together with blue, are colours now totally difufed, excepting by the children belonging to the charity-fchools. An author of the laft century f fpeaks of a cuftom, then in fafhion, of wearing two pairs of ftockings at one time ; the one faftened to the breeches, and the other gartered below the knee, and then turned down over the garter : this was a kind of fuperfluous luxury, I truft, unknown to Stubs, who, though he fpeaks of perfons having two or three pairs of expenfive ftockings**, does not in the leaft hint that they were worn at the fame time : liicli a cuftom he would furely have condemned with great feverity. * At one of the fplendid mummeries exhibited by Henry the Eighth during his interview with the French king, fome of the characters are faid to have oeen habited after the " guife of Eftland, their hojen being of riche gold fatten, called aureate Jatttn, overrouled to the knees with fcarlet,'' &c. Hall's Union, in the Life of Henry the Eighth, fol. 83. t Page 265, I Among the pageants exhibited when queen Elizabeth vifited the city of Nor- wich, A. D. 1,579, was one > m which was contained a representation of the principal part of their manufactures, thus lpecihed: i. the weaving of woifted; ii. the weaving of rufiels ; iii. the weav- ing of darrilik ; iv. the weaving of turF- mokado ; v. the weaving of lace ; vi. the weaving of caffa; vii. the weaving of fringe ; and, viii. children fpinning of worried yarne, and knitting of worried yarne hofe. Holinlhed, vol. III. page 1290. § MS. in the Harleian library, marked 6271. Dated A. D. 1679. [j The children at Clirift's Hofpital have worn yellow ftockings ever hnce the inftitution of that excellent School by. king Edward the Sixth. ^[ Randal Holmes. See page 341. ** Page 264. Socks HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART V. Socks of fuftian are mentioned in the inventory above-mentioned, and prized at three pence the pair. SHOES and BOOTS. — Before I enter upon an inveftigation of thefe articles, I fhall lay a word or two relative to their makers. In the thirteenth year of Richard the Second, an act was palled, pro- hibiting any ihoemaker to tan leather, or any tanner to praclile the making of fhoes, under the forfeiture of all the leather tanned by the one, and of all the fhoes made by the other; and the realons afligned were, the badnefs of the materials, they not being properly tanned, in the firfl inftance, and the faultinefs of the workmanihip in the fe- cond *. This act was repeated in the fame reign ; but, in the fourth year of Henry the Fourth, it was repealed, and the tanners and the fhoemakers were left at liberty to practife both profeffions at plea- fure, as they had been accuftomed formerly to do ; and, what is ex- traordinary, the petition for the repeal is founded, in part, upon the fame ground as the complaint had been, namely, the badnefs of the materials : to which was alfo added the dearnefs of the articles -J\ In the fumptuary laws eftabl'fhed in the third year of Edward the Fourth, there is a claufe forbidding any Ihoemaker to make the toes of the ihoes and boots to exceed the length of two inches J ; and in the fecond year of James the Firft, an act was pafTed which runs thus : No cordwainer or fhoemaker lhall make, or caufe to be made, any boots, fhoes, buikins, ftartops, flippers, or pantofHes, of Englifh. leather wet curried (other than deers' fkins, calves' fkins, or goats' fkins, made and dreffed like unto Spanifh leather); but of leather well and truely tanned." It then proceeds to ftate, that the Ihoes " fhall be fubftantially fewed with good thread well twifted and made, and iufficiently waxed with wax well rofened, and the ftitches hard drawn with hand-leathers, as had been accuftomed ; nor fhall they mix the over leathers with inferior leathers ; nor, in the trefwels, or double- foled fhoes, any other than the flanks of the hides &c. In the account of apparel belonging to king John, cited above, we meet with the following articles : " a pair of fotulares || for the king's ufe, charged fix pence ; and a pair oi little fotulares, alfo for the king, prized five pence." The fotulares, as we have feen before, are thought to have been a fpecies of fhoes that covered the foot, and part, if not the whole, of the ankles, and were calculated chiefly for cold wea- ther The aftivales, which are frequently mentioned in the fame * Ruffhead, Statutes at Large, vol. I. § Ruffhead, vol. III. p. 15. P a S e 335- II Compot. Garderobae, A. D. 1212; f Rot. Pari. MS. Harl. 7065. MS. Harl. 4573. I See page 227. % Page 157. roll, PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. 345 oil, were clearly a fpecies of fummer-boots, or bufkins, and in ge- neral, I prefume, reached only to the middle of the leg ; fometimes they are called large aftivales *, and then they might be more ex> tenlive. The aeftivales, I doubt not, were exactly fimilar to the hou- feaux, or botines, of the French. The houfeaux, or bufkins, were ufually worn by Henry the Fifth, if the following anecdote, extracted from the Chronique de Monffrelet, be perfectly correct : 2 68. ff Evidently derived from the French" X MS. Harl. 2284. word cotte. § And frequently alluded to as fuch in the old plays. 4 X parate a|U HABITS OF THE TEOPLE OF ENGLAND. PART V. parate garment, when the jacket was confidered as a military habit ; and as fuch it was ufed at a very early period in this country *, and feems to have been nearly, if not altogether, fynonymous to the gown. It was worn by both fexes ; and, when appropriated to the ladies, it reached to the ground. With refpecl to the form of the coats, their colours, or the materials with which they were compofed, it is lm- poffible to fpeak determinately. In one inventory of apparel alonef, we find them diftinguiflied in the following mariner : " Long coats, demi- coats, lhort coats, riding coats, coats with bafes or Jkirts, ftalking coats, tenice-coats, and coats of leather." Thefe were fometimes lined, faced with fur, and otherways ornamented, in a vaft variety of falhions %. Sometimes alfo they had ftrait fleeves ; fometimes large loofe fleeves, generally of a different confiftency from the bodies ; and fometimes they had no fleeves at all. The coats above-mentioned were made for the ufe of Henrv the Eighth ; and the quantity of cloth required for fome of them is fpecified as follows ; " Five yards and a half of white cloth of gold tiflue and damalk filver, ftnped with purple velvet pirled, for half a coat ; nine yards of cloth for a riding- coat; and two yards of black cloth to welt the fame; " twelve yards of gold tiffue to cover a riding-cote and doublet of rich filver tiffue ; and two yards and a half of damalk filver to welt the fame-." And, " Sixteen yards of right crimofin velvet for a riding-coat:" but here, I apprehend, the demi-coat was in- cluded; which appears to have been always the cafe, when fo large a quantity was required. " Three yards and a half of white fatin for a ftalking coat ; three yards and a quarter of -black velvet for a tenice-coat." We alfo find, that nine yards and a half of green far- cenet was required to line a full coat, and fix yards and a half of pur- ple fatin for the half-coat. Among the garments left in the wardrobe of Henry the Fifth at his deceafe I find one petite cote, or little coat, of red damalk, with open fleeves, and without lining, which is eftimated at ten fliillings : this I take to be the fame as the half-coat in the preceding inventory. * In the poem called Pierce Plough- in the fecond volume of the popba Kn- man, the pilgrims are faid to be habited gelcynnan, page 83, informs us, that in in " poure cotes that is, coats of coarfe the reign of Edward the Third the cloth, by way of penance. The Sergeant Englijhmenne clotbede all in cootes and hodes at law, in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, peynted with lettres and nvitb floures ; per- a homely medk cote and the Mil- haps for peynted we mould read embroi- 7cr7«a w^'/7^^ dered, acwficl!s } which was common f Belonging to Henry the Eighth, enough. . ■-• MS. Harl. 2284. § Rot. Pari. MS. Harl. 7068. . t An old Englifh chronicle MS. cited The PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 355 The earl of Northumberland, at the time he delivered the princefs Margaret, daughter of Henry the Seventh, to the king of Scotland, wore, fays Hall, " a rich coat, being of goldfmith's work, and fet with precious ftones * ;" and, when Henry the Eighth met Anne of Cleves, he was habited, according to the fame author, in " a coat of velvet, fomewhat made like a frocke, embroidered all over with flatted gold of damalke, with fmall lace mixed between of the fame gold, and other laces of the fame going traverfe-wife, that the ground little appeared ; and about this garment was/a rich guard, or border, very curioufly embroidered ; the fleeves and the breaft were cut and lined with cloth of gold, and tied together with great buttons of diamonds, rubies, and orient pearles The coat-hardy % is a garment frequently mentioned by the writers of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; it was ufed by both fexes; and, from a paflage quoted in a foregoing chapter, it feems to have been a drefs fitted very clofely to the body, and appropriated to the fummer, when it was made without the lining §. I rather think this garment was more ufed upon the Continent than in this country. In France, it formed part of the habit of an efquire the day before his being knighted || ; but, notwithstanding its being particularifed on this occalion, it does not appear to have been a drefs in general life among the nobility, but chiefly worn by pages f, and alfo by the minftrels ; and, when it was made in the German fafliion, it was condemned by the graver fort of people as foppifh and unmanly **. The coat-hardy, according to the German fafhion, I take to be a fhort jacket, and probably the fame with the courte-jacque f •}-, which, Froiflart tells us, was worn by Henry duke of Lancafter, when he rode from the Tower to Weftminfter, the day before his coronation : it was made of cloth of gold, and after the German fafliion ft The coat of arms, or, as Chaucer calls it, cote-armure was origi- nally a military veftment, and worn over the armour. In the early repre- * Union of the houfes of York and that is, four yards, or ells, of marble Lancafter, p. 56. This event took place cloth for four coat-hardies for four pages, A, D. 1502. fifty-eight millings and fix pence: in t Ibid. p. 239. voce Marbretus. % Called in Latin, tunica audax, tunica ** See the note, page 304. hardiata, and cotardia. -ff Tranflated by lord Berner a Jliorte § See page 241. cote . || It was then furred with black lambs' + + A la fachon d ' Almaigne 5 vol. IV Ikins. DuCange, GlofT. in voce militare. chap. 236. 5f In an ancient order cited by Char- §§ On hytn tkrowe a ve/lure, pentier, dated 1295, there is this arti- Whiche men clepe a cote-armure, cle : " pro xiii alms marbreti pro iv tunicis Embroudered wonder ly riche. audacibui pro iv pagiis, Iviiifol, vi den. Boke of Fame, Part III. fentations 356 HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V fentations of that garment, we find it quite plain ; but, as we ap- proach more nearly to the modern times, it appears charged with va- riety of embelli foments, and efpecially the armorial bearings, crefts, and other infignia of the nobility. It was then ufed in times of peace, not only by perfons of opulence, but alfo by their retainers and lervants. , Henry the Fourth, the day before his coronation, made forty-5 fix knights, fays Froiffart ; and gave to each of them a long coat of preen colour, with ftrait fleeves furred with minever, having large hoods lined with the fame kind of fur, fafoioned like thofe belonging to the prelates # . . . The fummer- coat, fo called from the feafon to which it was adapted ; being large and wide, and probably without any lining f . Pvre cotes, or coats made of coarfe cloth for the ufe of the lower claffes of the people ; as, "a pore cote of white burrel." The epithet poor is alfo applied to the cloth ; as, in the fpeech of Ball, when he was perfuading the people to rife, in the reign of Richard the be- cond • " What," fays he, " are the -lords better than us, though they are clothed in velvet and camlet, and we are veiled with poor cloth * ? " << 'haflbcke-coates" according to Stow, were worn over the doublets bv the yeomen attendant on the earl of Arundel at a tournament held in the twenty-third year of queen Elizabeth; and the grooms of lord Windfor, at the fame folemnity, had caffock-coats and Venetian hofe In an inventory of apparel in the wardrobe at Weftminfter, taken in the third year of Edward the Sixth ||, we find a cajfaque of murrey velvet, embroidered all over with damaik gold and pearls, having upon the breaft eleven buttons of gold and loops of the fame " being of little flagounes cheynes of golde " the fame being lined with purple taffaty ; alfo a " calTaque of purple gold tincell, with knots, lined with purple fatin, and a bafe to the fame of the like itutt. Both thefe garments appear to have belonged to his father. The mandillion, or mandevile, was a loofe coat, or jerkin, With- out fleeves, or with them hanging at the back : a defcnption of this garment has already been laid before the Reader f . Something of the fame kind was the frock, a garment frequently mentioned in ward- robe-inventories of Henry the Eighth. I meet with one of flat cloth of gold raifed with purple velvet and tiffue, with flowers ot gold, * Vol. IV. chap. 236. t Poures traps. Froiffart Chron. torn. II. -h In an old ballad of the thirteenth cap. 74. century are thefe lines: " Si votre cote § Holinfhed, vol. III. fol. 1317. foit large e lee— fi dira— ce eft une cote (| Harl. MS. 1419. de efte." MS. Harl. 2253. % Pp- *68. the PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. 357 the body lined with velvet, and the bafes, or flirts, with fatin ; alfo a frock of black fatin, lined with farcenet, having three welts of the fame. Sometimes eleven, and fometimes twelve yards of fluff were allowed for a frock for the king : five yards of cloth of i( filver da- matke" was expended for the lining of the borders of a frock ; and ; fix yards of filver tifTue for welting another *, It does not appear that this garment had any fleeves. In the above inventory there is mention made of a 'es in the fourteenth century ff. The fhift was chiefly, if not entirely, made with linen, finer or coarfer as the circum- fiances of the wearer permitted the purchafe. Fine holland, and, if I miftake not, Irifh cloth, as mentioned above, were ufed for the fame purpofe ; and, in the old romances, we frequently read of fhifts of ckalnfil, or chaifil, which alfo appears to have been? a delicate fpecies of linen. The chemife of lady Triamore, in the Romance of Launfal-JJ, is faid to be "white chainfil, with embellifhed borders, and laced on both fides." Another poet fpeaks. of a chemife of chaifil delicately wrought with thread ; and a third fays of Olimpias, the mother of Alexander, that " in a chayfel fmock fbe lay ||||."" J * The Carpenter's Wife, in the Mil- ler's Tale. Alfo in an old ballad, called Lord Thomas and Fair Annet, the lady fays to her maidens : " And drefs me to tny fmock. The one half is of holland fine, The other of netdle-ivorkf Reliques of Ancient Poetry, vol. III. + Four plays in one, by Beaumont and Fletcher, A. D. 1647. % "The Devil is an Afs," by Jonfon., a&ed 1616. § That is, made with Irijh cloth, as I think. || The inventory was taken 0£l. 31, an. 4 Edward VI. MS. Harl. 1419. Said to have been in the old Jewel- houfe at Weftminfter. Ibid. ** Chemife ridee & blanche. Vet. Poet. MS. cited by Du Cange, in voce capellus. f f • See page 164. XX De chainfil hlanc, e de chemife, E tus les roftez li pareient, Sue de deus partez laciez efteient, MS. Harl. 978/ §§ Un chemife de chaifil De fil et d'cevre mult foutil. Romance of Atis and Porhillion, MS. Bibl. Reg. Paris, 7191. IIH Romance of Alexander, by Adam Davies. Warton, Hift. Poet. vol. III. P* 35' The 368 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. The fhift was an expenfive article of drefs at the commencement of the laft century, if we may take the word of miftrefs Girtred, who talks of thofe that coft three pounds a-piece ; and adds, " they may be born withall From like authority we learn, that hempen Jmocks were worn by the country lafTes^. The gorget. This part of the ladies' drefs has been explained in a former chapter %. We find it brought up over the chin in the figure kneeling, upon the ninetieth plate ; and probably the barb, which was ufed in mourning, derived its origin from the gorget ; but the barb might not be worn above the chin by any female below the rank of a countefs §. ; , t ' I do not think that the gorget was ever imperially uled ; and, pro- bably, it is for this reafon that we know fo little concerning it. In one of the wardrobe-inventories of Henry the Eighth, among the ap- parel belonging to his queen, we find a gorget fpecified, of filver tiffue, being in length one yard and three quarters j|. The PARTELET, which anfwered the purpofe of the gorget, came into fafhion towards the conclufion of the fifteenth century. This part of drefs which was common to both fexes, occurs frequently in the inventories above referred to. The partelets, and thofe efpecially belongine; to the women, were made of various fluffs of the moft va- luable and delicate kind. I ihall fele& the following articles : « Two partelets of Venice gold, knit ; two partelets of Venice gold, caul- fafhion ; two partelets of white thread ; and two partelets of lawn, wrought with gold about the collars." Sometimes they are exprefsly faid to be without fieeves ; which plainly indicates, that they iome- times had them ^f." The TIPPET appears to have been a part of drels lometning re- fembling the partelet; and was worn about the neck : it varied in its fize and form ; for, it was fometimes large and long like a mantle ** ; at other times, it was narrow, and fcarcely covered the top ot the lhoulders, and fo it appears upon the two ladies kneeling, in the hun- dred and twenty-fecond plate. Like the partelet, it was ufed by the men as by the women. The thpet, worn by the ladies at the time of mourning, was quite another thing: it was a long narrow ftripe of cloth attached to the hood, or to the fieeves, of the wearer ff . * " Eaftward Hoe," a comedy, printed % Page 167. 160 < $ fee the whole fpeech, page 317. § See page 325. + In the Rape of Lucrece, by Tho- || MS. Harl. 1419. mas Heywood, A. D. 1638 it is pro- II Ib J d - ■. . „ j A mifed to them that they mould, inftead ** Ha » mentions : " mantels Mb, t p- « Of hempen fmockes to hdp the itch, pettes ; Union, Vit. Hen. VIII. p. Have linen fe-wed with fiherftuch" tt See page 30.3, et infra. PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND. 369- The RUFF, which feems to have fuperfeded the partelet and the tippet, came into fafhion among the ladies foon after the middle of the fixteenth century. This curious adornment they borrowed from the men, who had ufed ruffs a confiderable time before ; and, cer- tainly, when they were adopted by the ladies, both fexes feemed emu- lous to outdo each other in their extravagance. We have little to add to what has been faid upon this fubjecl in a former chapter ; where the Reader will find the ruffs fully defcribed, though with no fmall degree of acrimony, by a writer of the time in which they were ufed *. A lady, in an old dramatic performance f , calls for her " ruff and poker :" the poker was an inftrument to put the plaits of the ruff in proper form. In- the fixteenth year of queen Eli- zabeth, fays Howe, " began the making of &ec\jtoking-Jicks ; and until that time all lawn-drelTers ufed fetting-fticks, made of wood or bonej." Sometimes, it appears, that the plaits of the ruff were pinned ; as, a lover fays to his mittrefs : " Do you not remember what tafkes you were wont to put upon me when I bellowed on you gowns and petti-- coats ; and you, in return, gave me bracelets and flioe-ties ? how you fool'd me, and fet me fometimes to pin pleats in your ruff two hours together § ?" The widow, in a comedy called A Match at Midnight, enquires of her fervant, if fhe bid the fempflrefs to hollow her ruff in " the French fafhion cut ||." In another play, a woman, fpeaking of her ruff, fays, " nay, this is but fhallow : I have a ruffe that is a quarter of a vard deep ^[." The BANDS for the neck were worn by the men and by the wo- men, even at the time that the ruffs were in fafhion. Thefe bands were fometimes propped up with wires, as we fee an example upon the hundred and forty-fixth plate ; and fometimes they were permitted to fall upon the fhoulders, and then they were denominated falling-bands. In a comedy written early in the laft century, a gallant befpeaks of a milliner five yards of lawn to make his miftrefs fome falling bands — - " three falling one upon the other ; that," fays he, " is the new edition **. The ruffs and the bands were fucceeded byt he neckerchief, or, as it is more improperly called, the handkerchief. It was fufficiently large to cover the bofom and the fhoulders at the time of its introduction, * Page 270. kerley Marmion, A.D. 1641. f The Honeft Whore, by Tho. Deck- || By Will. Rowley, printed A. D. er, A. D. 1604. 1633. X Continuation of S tow's Annals, page , Gloff. in voce Marbretus. || " Et Jonfabe les huge; cotes, Ou a fept aunes etemie." •Phil.Mouikes, in Vit. Patrum, MS. f Rot. Pari. MS. Harl. 7068. ** See page 23 S. tt Un$L cotteron de violet — a nfage de- femme, Cbarpentier, in voce fofcaaia. tO,< PART V. HABITS OP THE PEOPLE OP ENG LAND, ffil to the genera] interpretation of the word*, it will appear, that this garment was worn by the women before it was adopted by the men : however, under the latter appellation, it does not occur, that I re- member, till the fifteenth century. A petkote of red damafk is men- tioned as remaining in the wardrobe of Henry the Fifth in the fecond year of his fon's reign ; but it is uncertain whether it belonged to a man or a woman. It had however open lleeves, and for that reafon I am inclined to attribute it to the former. It is valued at ten fhil- lings In the middle of the laft century the ladies wore white petticoats wrought with black lilk J, and foon after they trimmed them with filk, or gold and lilver fringes. Some were contented with a fingle row of fringe at the bottom of the garment ; but others extended this" finery to five or fix rows one above another,, and thefe rows, it feems, they called feet §.. The WAISTCOAT was a garment common to both fexes. We find it mentioned in a wardrobe- inventory belonging to Henry the Eighth,, which was taken towards the latter end of his reign. Let the following entry fuffice : (e two waftcotes for women, being of clothe of filver, embroidered,, both of them having fleeves||." The KIRTLE, or, as it was anciently written, kertel 9 ^, is a part ©f drefs ufed by the men and the. women, but efpecially by the latter. It was fometimes a habit of flate, and worn by perfons of high rank. The garment called in French depute cote Chaucer renders kirt/e**; and we have no reafon to difpute liis authority. Kirtles are very fre- quently mentioned in the old romances; they are faid to have been of different textures, and of different colours,, but efpecially of green ; and fometimes they were laGed clofely to the body, and probably anfwered the purpofe of the bodice, or If ays -f-f. To appear in a kirtle only, feems to have been a mark of fervitude J J ; and, at the clofe of the fifteenth century, it was ufed as a habit of penance §§. * In the Romance of the Rofe; fee page 235. f MS. Harl. 7068. X Loudon Chanticleres, a comedy* anonym. § So that a petticoat of fix feet was a petticoat -with fix rows of fringe. Ran- dal Holmes, MS. Harl. 2014. || MS. Harl.1419. «[[ From the Saxon word cyjite-l. ** " £>ui e/ioietit en pure coites ; " Rom. de la Rofe, line 777 ; which Chaucer tranflates, . in fyrtels, and none other wede. •j-f " Thar her teles uoer of rede cendal, F laced fmalle, jolyf, a?id ivell" Launfal, MS. Cott. Calig. A. 2;. X% Thus, the lady of Sir Ladore, when: he feafted the king by way of courtefy, waited^at the table : — " The lady bar di at a tunica) et tunica audax. %X U Car nulle robe ritft fi belle A dame, ne a damoifelle, Femmt PART V. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND-. 373 The fofquenie was ufually made with linen ; and it is faid to have been particularly becoming, when it was white and nicely plaited *. The rocket, which, as we have juft feen, appears to have been pre- cifely the fame garment as the fofquenie, was often made without fleeves, but fometimes they were alfo added to it. This veftment is twice reprefented upon the eighty-ninth plate, as well with as without the fleeves ; in one inftance, it reaches to the ground ; in the other, it is much fliorter, and open at the fides nearly to the arm-pit. The branc, according to an author cited by Charpentier, was the fame as the rochet ; that is, a linen veftment which the women put over the other parts of their clothing. The frock, called in Latin flocus and froccus, was a monaftic ha- bit, and ufed chiefly by the monks ; but it is equally certain, that it was not confined to them : it was worn by the laity, and adopted, on certain occaflons, by the women. It is defcribed as a loofe gar- ment with large fleeves ; and, probably, refembled the rochet, which was alfo an ecclefiaftical veftment. In the fifteenth century, when the gown came into general ufe, the fupertunic was difcontinued, and by degrees its name was obliterated from the catalogue of a fafhionable lady's drefs. It was a very rich veftment in the days of Chaucer: for, in one of his poems -}~, he fpeaks of a lady whofe gown was embroidered and fet with jewels according to her fancy ; and upon the facings and borders fhe had this motto wrought : " Bein et loyalment" The working of letters and fhort fen- tences upon the borders of coats and gowns was by no means uncom- mon; and this practice was reftrained by an edict eftablifhed in par- liament for that purpofe in the fourth year of the reign of Henry the Fourth %. Of another lady the poet fays, her gown was of cloth of gold, of blue colour, handfomely fafhioned like a tabard, with fleeves Femme eft plus cointe et plus mignottc En furquanye, que en cotfe." Romant de la Rofe, line 1213, et infra. Which is thus tranflated by Chaucer : « For there nys no clothe fytteth bette On damofel than doth rokette A woman wel more fetyfe is In rockette, than in cote ywis." The author of the Glolfary to the printed edition of this poem fays of the fofquenie, that it reached to the hips, and refembled the cloak, or mantle, worn by the ladies of the modern times ; but this defcription ill accords with the words of the poet. * ** The ivliite rokette ryddeled fayre" ibid. And, in an old French poem, more ancient than Chaucer, " meint bone rokct bien ridce — maint blank" Sec. MS. Harl. 9*3- f Affemble of Ladyes. X See Se£t, VI. page 225. 5 G hanging 374 HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OP ENGLAND. PART V. hanging down ; the collar and the ftomacher, inftead of being faced with ermine, was covered with fine large orient pearls elegantly ar- ranged, and powdered with diamonds ; and the borders of the fleeves were ornamented in the fame manner. According to an inventory taken, in the eighth year of Henry the Eighth, of his wardrobes at the Tower *, it appears that the ladies' gowns were either fingle or lined. We find a great difference in the quantities of fluff allowed, at different times, for the making of gowns for the queen. I mall, however, confine myfelf to the following ar- ticles : — Three yards of purple cloth of gold tiffue for a gown for the queen's grace ; the fame quantity of ri:h filver cloth of tiffue for the fame purpofe ; two yards and an half of checkered tifiue, to line a gown for the queen ; three yards and a quarter of rich cloth of gold tifiue damafk gold, raifed with pirles of damafk filver, for the fame ufe. We then read of thirteen yards of rich cloth of gold for a gown for the queen ; and the fame quantity of crimofin velvet upon vel- vet for the fame ; alfo ten yards of damafk filver to line a gown for the queen ; and eleven yards of black cloth of tiffue for the fame purpofe. I found alfo allowed three yards of crimofin cloth of gold of damafk for the edgings, facings, and cuffs of a gown for her majefly. Four yards of white cloth of gold tiffue were allowed to make a gown for " my lady the Princefs the fame of velvet, and of other fluffs, and five yards of ruffet velvet, given for her night-gown. Chaucer fpeaks of a light gown, appropriated to the fummer \ ; that is, I prefume, loofe and without lining. The git, or gyte, was another name for the gown ; and it is twice fo called by Chaucer. He tells us, that the wife of the miller of Trompynton followed her hufhand on holidays 4 4 in a gyte of reed J," that is, in a red gown ; and the Wife of Bath boafts that, on fuch occafions, fiie put on her " gay fkarlet gytes§." The gowns of the more modern ladies the Reader will find defcribed in a former chap- ter ||. Hall afiures us, that at a mafque, in the fixth year of Henry the Eighth, four ladies, who accompanied the king, and three noblemen, had " gounes of blew velvet, cut and lyned with cloth of gold, made after the fafhion of Savoy ; but gives no information relative to the * MS. Harl. 2284. i Reves Tale, f AndJIie in goune 5> ^71. f Capuaum. ** Page 169. X Cu utlus. -f-| See page 236. § Du Cange, Gloff. in voce crtcea. %\ Page 285. )| An. 19 Hen. III. MS. Harl. 4573. §§ Page 271. END OF THE SECOND VOLUME. t i 3 A Lift of the MSS. containing the chief part of the Dresses given in this Work. The Names, Letters, and Numbers, are the prefs-markfi> by which the MSS. are arranged in the different libraries ; the Numerals at the end of the line indicate the century in which the MS. mentioned was written. In the Cottonian Library at the.Britifli Mufeum. Julius, A. V. The Prophecies of Merlin j xiii cent. A. VI. A Calendar in the Saxon character ; x. Tiberius, A. VII. A Poem in old Engliih, called The Pilgrim ; xv. B. V. A Calendar in the Saxon character; ix. C. VI. The Life of Chrift compared with that of David, Saxon cha- racter; x. Caligula, A. XIV. An ancient Hymn-book; xi. Claudius, A. III. Synodal Decrees ieftabliflicd in the reign of king Ethelred \ x. B. IV. The Book of Genefis, and other parts of the Mofaical Hiftory, written in the Saxon language j viii. Nero, C. IV. The Life of Chrift, prefixed to a Latin and Franco-Norman Verfion of the Pfalms ; xi. D. VI. Various Tra&s relative to the Peace between France and England, Char- ters, &c. ; xiv. D. VII. The Regifter of the Benefactors to the Abbey of St. Albans, in Hert- fordftiire; xv. D. IX. A Romance in French, containing the « Loyal Love and Pitiful End of Meifire Floridan and the LadyEluyde;" xv. E. II. The Chronicles of France ; xiv. Vitellius, C. III. An Herbal in the Saxon language ; x. Vefpafian, A. I. The Pfalms of David in Latin, interlined with a Saxon verfion; viii. A. XVII. Directions for a Prince, or General, in the Time of War, in French ; xv. Titus, D. XVI. Aurelius Prudentius ; xiii. Domitianus, A. XVII. A Pfalter, which formerly belonged to king Richard the Second ; xiv. Cleopatra, C. VIII. Aurelius Prudentius, with Saxon interlineations ; ix. In the Harleian Library at the Britifh Mufeum. 603. A Pfalter in Latin, according to the verfion of St. Jerom 5 x. 621. JohnBoccace, « De Cafu llluftrium Virorum el Faminarum," in French; xv. 926. Statttta Ant'qua ; xiii. 9*8. The Hora Beat* Maria, with Collets and Prayers to Chrift, &c. j xiii. 1526. The Hiftory of the Old and New Teftament compared together, 1 ... 1527. The fame; indeed, both volumes lhould be bound in one, J xuu 11 LIST OP MANUSCRIPTS. 1766. John Boccace " De Cafu Principum" tranflated into Englifh verfe by John Lidgate ; xv. 2014. Mifcellaneous Collections relative to the Hiftory of England ; xvii. 2278. The Life of St. Edmund, a poem by John Lidgate, monk of Bury ; this pro- bably was the copy presented to king Henry VI ; xv. 2356. A Pfalter, in Latin ; xiii. 2838. Speculum Humana Salvationist with the arms of England at the bottom of the firft page ; xv. 2840. A Bible in Latin ; xiii. 2897. A beautiful Miifal; xv. 3000. The fame. 3954. Sir John Mandeville's Travels, in Englifh; xv. 3983. Le Roman de Florimont , in French verfe, &e. ; xiv. 4372. Valerius Maximus, in French, vol. I ; xv. 4373. The fame, vol. II. 4374. The fame, vol.111. 4375. The fame, vol. IV. 4379. The firft part of the fourth volume of John Froiftart's Chronicle, in French> fuperbly illuminated ; xv. 4380. The fecond part of the fame. 4425. A fine copy of Le Roman de la Ro/e, in French, embellifhed with beautiful paintings ; xv. 4751. Natural Hiftory of Beafts, Birds, Fillies, and Reptiles, in Latin; xiii. 4939. Appian Alexandria des Guerres des Romans, tranflated into French by Claud© de Scyffel, bilhop of Marfeilles ; xv. 4972. The Apoealyps of St John, in French, xiv. 6064. An Heraldical book, in Englifti ; xviii. In the Royal Library at the Britifh Mufeum,. 2. A. XXII. A Pfalter, in Latin; xiii. TO. A. XIII. Dunftani Expo/itio in Regulam B. Benedicli ; xiii. 20. A. II. Peter Langtoft's Chronicles of England ; xiv. 2. B. III. Pfalter, with the Calendar, Litany, and Hymns, in Latin; xiii. VII. The Old Teftament Hiftory, in French, with the Pfalter, &c. ; xiv. 6. B. VII. Aldhelm, Bi (hop of Sherborne, in praife of Virginity, Latin ; x. J 5. B. III. Boethiide Confolatione Philofophicd, &C. xiv. 20. B VIII. Part of the Hiftory of St. Graal, in French; xiii. 6. C VI. Part of the Book of Job, in Latin; xi. 14. C. VII. Mat. Paris, Hift. Anglia; ; xiii. 19. C. I. Old Poems, &c. in French; xiii. 19. C. IV. Le Songe du Vergier ; xiv. 19. C. VII. Imagination de Fraye NobleJJe, written A. D. 1496. 20. C. I. Les Fait des Romans ; xv. 20. C. V. John Boccace le Livre des Nobles Femmes; xiv. 20. C. VI. A Scholaftic Bible, vol. I. 20. C. VII. The fecond volume of the fame; xiv. 15. D. I. Lift ore Scholaftique ; xv. 15. D II. The Apocalypfe ; xiv. 15. D. III. A Scholaftic Bible, fuperbly illuminated ; xiv. 18. D. VII. John Boccace, the Hiftory of Noble Men and Women; xiv. 19. D. I. The Life of Alexander the Great, in French; {352. 19. D. III. Scholaftic Bible, in French, written by Thomas du Val} 1411* 20. D. IV. Hiftory of Lancelot du LaC, French ; xiv. LIST OP MANUSCRIPTS. Ill %o, D'. VI. Lives of the Saints, &rc. in old French ; xiii. 20. D. XI. Various poetical Romances, in French ; xiii. 14. E. II. Le Songe Dove, or the Golden Dream, with other Poems, in French} xv. 14. E. IV. Chronicle of England, in French ; xiv. 14. E. V. Johan. Boccace, de Cas des Nobles Hommes et Femmes ; xv. 15. E. II. Des Proprietez des Chofe, written by John Duries, A. D. 1482. 15. E. IV. Chronique d'Angleterre ; xv. 15. E. VI. The Genealogy of Henry the Sixth ; the Hiftory of Alexander the Great; with feveral Romances j an elegant MS. prefented by John Talbot to the queen of Henry the Sixth ; xv. 17. E.VII. Scholaftic Bible; xiv. 18. E. II. The Fourth volume of Froiflarts Chronicles> in French, finely illutni* nated ; xv. r8. E. IV. Valerius Maximus, des Difls & Faitts des Romans ; xv» 18. E. V. I'tiiftoire Tripartite, in French, written A.D. 1478. 19 E. V. Romuleon, or the A£t of the Romans; xv. 20. E. VI. The fifth volume of the Chronicles of the Kings of France, in French > xv, 16. F. II. Grace entere fur le Gouvernement du Prince ; xv. 16. G. V. Chromques de Roys de France to the Death of St. Lewis 5 xiv. 16. G. VI. Gejtesdes Roys de France, to the Death of St. Louis; this MS. belonged to Humphrey duke of Glocefter ; xiv. In the Sloanian Library, at the Britifh Mufeum*. 346. Speculum Humanae Salvationis, xiii. 795. A Book of Surgery ; xiv. 1975. An Herbal, with a Treatife relative to Surgery ; xiii 24.33. The Chronique de St. Denis, in three volumes ; xiv. 243 5. Rules for the Prefervation of Health, in French ; xiv.' 2 453 The Boke of Aftronomye and of Pbilofofie, &c. ; xv. 3 794- T 2, 3, Nero, C iv. XXXII. i } 2, 3, 4, ibid. XXXIII. Ibid. XXXIV. Ibid. XXXV. From the great feals at the Mufeum. XXXVI. 1, 2, 3, Nero, C. iv, XXXVII. Bod. 2144. D. 1, 9. XXXVIII. %, 3, Nero, c. iv; 2, Ca- ligula, A. xiv. XXXIX. 1, Bod. 2144.0.1.93 23, Sloan. 1975. XL. From a Pfalter in the poffeffion of F. Douce, Efq. XLI. 1, 2,3,4, Hari. 1527. XLII. Ibid, et ip6. XLIII. 1, Sloan, a roll, Y vi ; 2, from a Pfalter, in the poffeffion of F. Douce, Efq. ; 3 Nero, C. vi. XLIV. 1, 2, 3, Knights Templars ; the coat of mail from Nero, C. vi. XLV. A monument belonging to the family of St.-Clere. XLVI. Ibid. XLVII. 1, 2, 3, 4, Harl. 1527. XLVIII. Sloan, a roll, Y vi ; contain- ing the life- of St. Guthlac. XLIX. 1, 2, Harl. 1527 ; 3 Cott. Ne- ro, C iv. L. Roy. 10 A. xiii. LI. 1, from a MS. in the poffeffion of 3^. Douce, Efq. ; 2, 3, Harl. 4751. LI.I. 1, Sloan, 3983 ; 2, 3, Harl. 1528. LIU. 1, 2, 3, Harl. 4751. LIV. 1,2,3,4,5, Sloan. 3983. LV. 1, 2, Sloan. 197$. X.VI. Bod. 86. Arcl/. B. PLATES. V * LVII. Roy. 2. A. xxii. LV1II. Ibid. LIX. Harl. 2356. LX. Harl. 926. LXI. 1, 2, 3, Sloan. 3983. LXII. 1, 2] 3, ibid. LXIII. Harl. 928. LXIV. Roy. 14 C. vii. LXV. 1, 2, Bod. 86. Arch. B ; 3, 4, Sloan. 346. LXVI. Roy. 2. A. xxii. LXVII. x Harl. 1527; 2,3, Cott. Ju- lius, A, v j 4, 5, Sloan. 346. LXVIII. Roy. 2. A. xxii. Frontispiece to Volume H, Harl. LXIX. 1, 2,3,4, an d the middle fi- gure at the bottom, Sloan. 2435 ; 5, from an ancient Miffal, in the poffeffion of F. Douce, Efq. ; 7, Roy. 2. B. iii. LXX. 1, Roy. 15. B. iii; 2, 3, Roy. 20. B. vii; 4, Roy. 19. C. 1 ; 5, 8, Roy. 19, O. ii ; 6, 7, Sloan. 2433. LXXI. 1, Roy. 1$. D. iii ; 2, Harl. 2897 ; 3, Roy. 2, B. vii ; 4. Harl. 2840. LXXII. 1, 2, Roy. 19, D. i ; 3, 4, ibid. 20. C. vii; 5. ibid. 16. G. vi; 6 Harl. 4972 ; 7, Roy. 20. B. vi. LXXIII. The top-compartment, Roy. 2. B. vii; at the bottom, 1, 3, ibid. 20 C. vi ; 2, Sloan. 2433. LXXIV. 1, Roy. 20. D. iv; 2, ibid. 20. E. vii ; 3, ibid. 19. C. iv; 4, §, ibid. 20 B. vii ; 6, 7, from a MS. copy of the Roman de la Rofe, 14 cent, in the pof- feffion of F. Douce, Efq. LXXV. 1, 2, 3, Roy. 20. C. vii ; 4, ibid. 16. G. vi; 5, 6, 7, ibid. 20. B. vii. LXXVI. 1, 2, 3, Roy. 15. D. i ; 4, 5, ibid. 20. C. v ; 6, 7, from a MS. copy of the Roman de la Rofe, in the poffeffion of F. Douce, Efq. LXXVII. 1, Sloan. 2433 : 2, 3. 5, 6, 7, Roy. 20 C. vii ; 4, Roy. 15. D. 3. Plate LXXVIII. 1, 4, 5, 6, Roy. 20. C. vii ; 2, from a fcholaffic Bible in the polTeflion of F. Douce, Efq. ; 3, Sloan. 2453. LXXIXi 1, Sloan. 2433 ; 2,3,4, R°7» 20. C. vii; 5,6, 7, 8, Cott. Domitian, A. xvii. LXXX. 1, Roy. 15. D. iii; 2, ibid. 16. G. vi; 3, from a MS. Chronicle of St, Denis ; and 5, from a copy of the VI LIST O F Romance of the Rofe, both of the 14th century, in the polfeflion of F. Douce, Efq. 3 4, Roy. 19 C. iv 3 6, ibid. 19. D. ii. LXXXI. 1, 2, 3. 7. Sloan. 2433 3 4. 6. Roy. 20. C. vii; 5, from the Chronicle of St. Denis, mentioned in the laft arti- cle. LXXXI I. 1, 2, 3, 4, Roy. 20. A. ii 3 5, ibid. 2, B. vii 3 6, ibid. 20. c. vii 3 7, ibid. 16. G. vi. LXXXIII. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, Roy. 20. A. ii 3 6, Sloan. 2433 ; 7, 8, Roy. 16. G. vi. LXXXIV. Cott. Domitian.. A. xvii. LXXXV. 1, Roy. 2, B. iii ; 2, ibid. 16. G. vi ; 3, from the Liber Regalis. LXXXVI. 1, 2, from the Liber Re- galis, in the Abbey library at Weftmin. iter. LXXXVII. 1, Roy. 1 D. « 2, 3, 4) 5. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, ibid. 20. C. vii ; 7, Sloan. 2433. LXXXVIIL.i, 2,. Sloan. 346 ; 3, from a MS. Roman de la Rofe, in the polfef fion of F. Douce, Efq. ; 4, Roy. 2a. C. vii. LXXXIX. 1. Roy. 16. G. vi j 2, 3, ibid. 2, B. vii ; 4, in a cafe unnumbered at the Britifli Mufeum. XC. 1. 3, Roy. 20. C. v; 2, ibid. 19, D. 1 ; 4, 1VJS. Roman de la Rofe, in the polfeflion of F. Douce, Efq. XCI. 1, Roy 15. D. ii ; 2, Scholaftic Bible, in the library of F. Douce, Efq. 3 3 Rov. 16. G v. XCII. 1, from the MS. Bible men- tioned in the preceding article 3 2> 3, Sloan. 2433. XCIII. 1. 3, Roy. 15. D. iii ; 2, ibid. j6. G. v. XCIV. 1, Roy. 16. G. v; 2, from the Liber Regalis at Weftmin fter ; . 3, Roy. 20. C. i. XCV, 1, Roy. 20. D. iv; 2, from a MS. copy of Boetius, in the polfeflion of F. Douce, Efq.; 3, Roy. 20. C vi. XCVI. 1, Roy. 16. G. v 3 2, ibid. 20. C- vii 3 3, ibid. 19. D. ii; 4, ibid, 17. F. vii. XCVII. Roy. 15. D. 3. XCVIII. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, Roy. 15. D. ii ; 7, ibid. 20. C. v; 8. 11, ibid. 20. C. vii j 9, ibid. 20. D. iv; 12, ibid. 16. G. V. i io, Sloan. 795, PLATES. XCIX. From the Liber Regalis at Weftminfter-abbey. C. 1, 2, Scholaftic. Bible MS. of the 14th century penes F. Douce, Efq. ; 3. Roy. 16. G. vi ; 4, ibid. 20. D. xi ; $. Sloan. 346. CI. Taken from an ivoiy coffer very curioufly carved, in the polfeflion of F. Douce, Efq. CII. 1, Roy. 16. G. vi ; 2, 3, 4, Sloan. 2 43.3 5 $> 6, Roy. 20. D. i. ClII. 1, 2, 3, 4, Roy. 20. C. vi ; 5, , Cott. Tib. A. vii. CI V. Cott. Nero. D.vi. CV. 1, Harl. 1766 5 2, MS. Rom. de la . Rofe, penes F. Douce, . Efq. j 3, Roy. 16. G. vi 3 4, Had. 4380 ; 5, Cott. Tib. A. vii 3 6 Harl. 39543 7, Roy. 15. D. iii. CVI. 1, 2, 3, 4, Roy. 1 8* D. vii 3 <, 6, . Harl. 2838. CVH. Harl. 4379. CVIII. 1, Harl. 1766; 2, Cott. Nero, D< vii ; the portrait of D'nus N'gellus Lo- ringge, a benefactor to the abbey of St. Albans 3 3. j, 6, Harl. 2278 3 4, Roy. 15. . E. vi. CXIX. Will, de Albeneis, Pincerna Re- gis, 1 3 2, 3, y