TEXTILE TEXTS. TEXTILE TEXTS FOR COTTON MANUFACTURERS, INGLUDING SPECIAL ARTICLES ON CARDING, SPINNING, SPOOLING, WARPING, DYEING, REELING, TWISTING AND WEAVING ALSO GENERRL ' HISTORY, r' MATHEMflir?Gfl^ TABLES, PATENTED COTTON MACHINERY INTRODUCED AND SOLD BY DRAPER COMPANY. HOPEDALE, MASS., U. S. A., 1917. Copyright, 1887, by GeoPwGE Draper & Sons. Copyright, 1889, by George Draper & Sons. Copyright, 1892, by George Draper & Sons. Copyright, 1896, by George Draper & Sons. Copyright, 1901, by Draper Company. Copyright, 1903, by Draper Company. Copyright, 1907, by Draper Company. Copyright, 1917, by Draper Corporation. PRINTED BY "MILFORD journal COMPANY MiLFORD, Mass. itit GEH r CEl%iTER - LIBRARY TO OUR CUSTOMERS, The Cotton Manufacturers of the United States, WHOSE ENTERPRISE IN TESTING AND ADOPTING VALUABLE IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY HAS STIMULATED THE DEVELOPMENT OF IMPORTANT INVENTIONS, THUS IMPROVING THE QUiM.ITy AND DIMINISHING THE ,pdi2T OF THE FABRICS PRODUCED, THIS, OUR TWELFTH DESCRIPTIVZ CATALOGUE, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. INTRODUCTORY. Plan View of Our Works, 1913. The various buildings shown, including their several stories, contain over thirty-three acres of floor space. INTRODUCTORY, 9 PREFACE. 1^ T is our purpose to make this book a compendium of useful information for everyone connected with the manufacture of cotton cloth or yarns. While some of our specialties are applicable to woolen, worsted and silk manufacture, we feel that the cotton mill is our legitimate field and broad enough to require the greater part of our time. In connection with the general information furnished, we introduce descriptions of our machinery, and rules and tables of interest to the practical manufacturer. These tables in many cases are merely the results of mathematics and formulae and have been published by us before. Others are figured from actual results gathered from hundreds of mills, and properly averaged. The latter are of great practical value. In this present edition, new tables are presented whenever the conditions have made such change necessary. This book is copyrighted, and we hope to see that copyright respected. We expect to issue a sufficient number of copies so that all men occupying responsible positions in Cotton Mills may have them on request. DRAPER COMPANY. 10 INTRODUCTORY. LOCATION OF HOPEDALE. INTRODUCTORY, 11 LOCATION OF HOPED Am. Hopedale is located in a triangle formed by lines connecting Boston, Worcester and Providence. It is 34 miles from Boston, 18 miles from Worcester and 26 miles from Providence. To reach Hopedale from Boston, take the Boston & Albany division of N. Y. Central R. R. via South Framingham to Milford, Mass., our adjoining town; thence by carriage or electric cars to Hopedale, 1 1-2 miles; or Boston and Worcester trolley line to South Framingham, 22 miles, and trolley, from South Framingham to Hopedale, 13 1-2 miles; or Boston & Albany line to South Framingham and trolley to Hopedale; there are also several trains per day from Boston to Milford via Ashland and Hopkinton; also another line via Franklin to Milford. From Worcester take either Boston & Albany train or trolley to North Grafton, 6 miles, thence change to trolley line through Upton to Hopedale, 12 miles. From Providence take Providence & Worcester division of N. Y., N. H. & Hartford R. R. to Uxbridge, Mass., 25 miles, thence trolley to Hopedale, 7 miles. Or, Providence & Worcester R. R. to Woonsocket, R. I., 16 miles, thence by trolley to Milford, Mass., 12 miles, changing at Milford for Hopedale. Or, trolley from Providence to Woonsocket, connecting with trolley line at Woonsocket for Milford, as above. We have had this map prepared, in view of frequent requests for information as to where Hopedale is situated and how to reach it. We extend a cordial invitation to our readers to call and see us. TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH, We can be reached by either the Western Union or Postal Telegraph Company and by the New England Telephone and Telegraph Company. 12 HISTORY. COTTON MANUFACTURE. The Textile Art is one of the oldest arts known to mankind. It ministers to one of his primal needs, and many a pictorial remnant of civilization that existed at the dawn of history bears on its face some evidence of the art of making cloth. This art very early reached a stage of development both as to the texture, the material used, the beauty, and utility of the finished product, that would compare favorably with the best products of today. The silks of ancient China, the hand woven Persian rugs, and the tapestries of the middle ages are unrivalled. The manufacturer of today has discovered no new product in this art. The modern world, however, beginning in the middle of the eighteenth century, and continuing to the present day, has brought about ever improving results in the processes of producing textile fabrics. Modern civilization has made two demands upon the textile industry; it has required larger and larger quantities of material for old demands and it has created a constantly increasing diversity of new demands. These requirements have been partly cared for by more and more producing elements and partly by greater and greater efficiency of those elements. The spinning wheel has been replaced by the modern high speed spindle, and the hand loom by the power loom, and this in turn has given way to the automatic loom. The product per operative has been increased a number of thousand times, while the result attained has been very little changed. The evolution in the Textile Art has enabled the value of a single unit in the textile working world to be the productive equal of several thousand of his predecessors of three hundred years ago. This capacity of one to do the work of several thousand leaves the several thousand free to do other work in supplying the requirements of modern society. The evolution of the industry has been in the means and not the end of the art. The product as a product has remained the same, while the means to bring about the result have undergone tremendous developments. The unceasing effort of the textile manufacturer is to increase the product per wage earner without sacrificing the quality of the product. A very large amount of the cloth today could not be distinguished from the product of 1700. The industry of 1700, however, with its now discarded methods, would have needed the labor of the entire country to equal the product of one of our large mills of the present type. HISTORY, 13 The most important division of the textile art in capital involved, number of wage-earners and volume and value of product is cotton manufacturing. The field of activity of the Draper Company has been in the main confined to this division and its efforts have been devoted to the advancement of this art. There are a large number of our machines doing service in worsted and woolen mills where the processes of manufacture in these materials parallel the cotton processes which our machines perform. Within the limits of our chosen field our history has been intimately connected with and dependent upon the advances made here. The Butcher Temple, the Bartlett let-off, the Stearns pick motion, the Sawyer and Rabbeth Spindles, the Carroll ring and the Northrop Loom, all marking distinct advances over prior devices, have all been brought out and introduced by us. Beginning in 1816, nearly one hundred years ago, in the early and struggling days of the cotton industry in the United States, we find Ira Draper working on improvements in the art of making cotton cloth. Ira Draper, son of Abijah Draper, an officer of the war of independence, was born in Dedham, December 29th, 1764. He moved to Weston, Mass., in 1808, where he spent the rest of his life. He was of an inventive turn of mind, taking out a number of patents, but devoting his main attention to the textile industry. In 1816 he took out his first loom and loom temple patent, which, as was the custom at that time, jj^^ Draper. covered several distinct improvements, the most important of which was the loom temple. This patent showed a temple of the so-called star wheel type, having a row of pins or teeth in it, which held the cloth, and was mounted on the breast beam so that it was largely self-acting. The temples in use up to this time had been of the stretcher type, made of two pieces of wood with teeth in the opposing ends, which were inserted in the cloth by the weaver, and which had to be taken off and re-adjusted as often as the temples travelled a short distance from the fell of the cloth. Ira Draper was the pioneer in recognizing the need of such an improvement and put into operation the 14 HISTORY, first rotary temple. This improvement was a very important one, as it enabled a weaver to double the number of looms that he could run. The business of introducing these improved loom temples was carried on by Ira Draper from Weston, Mass., for about fifteen years. On the first of April, 1829, he took out another patent on loom temples, covering an improvement in the mounting of his early device. In 1830 Ira Draper sold these two patents to his eldest son, James Draper, who at once undertook to put them ^ on the market and bring them to the attention of the cotton manufacturers of that time. In the first number of the first volume of the Boston Transcript published July 24, 1830, there appears an advertisement of James Draper, bringing these temples to the attention of the textile trade. He continued the business until March, 1837, when he took into partnership his half brother, E. D. Draper, who assumed the real control of the business. In 1842 E. D. Draper moved to Hopedale, Mass., becoming a member of the Hopedale Community established by the Rev. Adin Ballou; and in 1853 George Draper moved to Hopedale, joining with his brother and forming the partnership of E. D. & G. Draper to sell loom temples and other improvements in cotton machinery. George Draper was born in Weston, Mass., August 16, 1817, and died June 7, 1887. He started early in life in a cotton mill, getting practical experience which proved to be so valuable to him later in his great work of cheapening the processes and bettering the products of cotton machinery. E. D. Draper. George Draper, HISTORY, 15 He started at 14 years of age at North Uxbridge, and afterwards became manager of the Union Mill at Walpole, and left there to become overseer of weaving at Three Rivers. He then made his first venture of introducing patented improvements in cotton machinery. In 1837 he found a position as operative in the Massachusetts Cotton Mills at Lowell. He next was put in charge of the fancy weaving at the Harris Woolen Company Mills of Woonsocket, R. I., and later became Superintendent of a mill of the Otis Company at Ware, Mass., and then Superintendent of all their mills. On October 28, 1840, and again February 21, 1842, he took out patents which embodied i mprovements on the same type of temple which Ira Draper had originally invented in 1816. Meantime Elihu and Warren W. Butcher of North Bennington, Vermont, had taken out two patents on an entirely new type of loom temple; one patent dated December 18, 1851, and the other and more important of the two December 28, 1852. These were the first temples provided with cyhndrical rolls; the temples were so constructed as to be reciprocated by the lay in the process of weaving. In this way they were able to hold the cloth much nearer the last pick than any prior temples. The appearance in the field of a formidable rival that bade fair to be a serious competitor in the temple business, led to the purchase by E. D. & G. Draper in 1854 of Elihu Dutcher's interest in the temple patents and business and the firm of W. W. Dutcher & Company, comprising W. W. Dutcher, E. D. and G. Draper, was formed to manufacture this type of loom temples. The temples were manufactured in North Bennington, Vermont, until May 1856, when Mr. Dutcher moved to Hopedale; the firm of E. D. & G. Draper had the agency for the sale of these temples to the mills. Mr. Dutcher was an able inventor, taking out over twenty patents, mostly on temples and machines for making temples. A line of machines for setting temple teeth invented by him is at present in use. They are today W. W. Dutcher. 16 HISTORY. doing service, and are unduplicated and unrivalled. The importance of these inventions is best shown by the fact that this business has continued the temple manufacture of the United States, without any departure from the basic principle of the original patents. In 1856 the Hopedale Community, which had been in existence for some 14 years, had become involved in financial difficulties, and E. D. & G. Draper assumed its debts and assets; about this time a brother-in-law of the Drapers, Joseph B. Bancroft, who had come to Hopedale in 1847, Joseph B. Bancroft. ^^^^^^^^ Hopedale job castings for the general outside pubMc. In 1867 corporations were formed to take over the three partnerships; the Dutcher Temple Company succeeded the firm of W. W. Dutcher & Company; the partnership of the Hopedale Machine Company was incorporated under the same name, and the Hopedale Furnace Company as a corporation succeeded the Hopedale Furnace Company as a partnership. Early in 1868 E. D. Draper disposed of his interest in the firm of E. D. & G. Draper, and moved to Boston; in that same year the firm of George Draper and Son was formed, by George Draper taking in his eldest son, William F. Draper. The firm name was changed in 1876 to George Draper & Sons when George A. Draper, another son, was admitted as a member; in 1880, Eben S, Draper, a third son, was admitted to the firm; and in 1887 and 1889 William F. Draper, Jr. and George Otis Draper, sons of William F. Draper, were admitted to the partnership of George Draper & Sons. joined with the two Drapers in a partnership known as the Hopedale Machine Company to manufacture improvements in cotton machinery. At the time of the removal of the Dutcher temple business to Hopedale a local foundry became necessary to make the high grade castings needed for temples and other machinery manufactured by the Hopedale Machine Company, so the Hopedale Furnace Company was formed as a partnership in 1856. This company made all interests, as well as making HISTORY. 17 William F. Draper resigned his active position with the company July 1, 1907, and died January 28, 1910. During his connection with the business he filled many important positions. For a long time he had charge of the finances; later he conducted the experimental department devoted to the perfecting of new devices; also including patents and patent litigation; for several years he was the practical head of the organization and much of its success was due to his ability and untiring efforts. The business from 1853, when George Draper came to Hopedale until his death in 1887, can be roughly divided William F. Draper. into two parts, the period up to 1870 and the period from 1870 to 1887. In the early period the largest share of the business in addition to temples was in improvements of different motions on looms for plain weaving. During this time the Bartlett, Shepard and Young let-offs and the Stearns shuttle motion were introduced and adopted by a large share of the mills. The Stearns shuttle motion was the successful development of which the patent of 1846 to W. W. Dutcher was the pioneer in breaking away from the overhead pick motion, and is now in universal use in this country in a modified form. A large business was also done in shuttle guards, thick and thin place preventors, and other loom improvements. Beginning about 1870 came the tremendous improvements in the spinning room, with the Sawyer and later the Rabbeth spindle and Carroll double spinning ring. These inventions have practically driven mule spinning from America, except on the very finest niimbers. The cheapening of the process of spinning by these inventions has been tremendous, and the amount saved in the manufacture of yarns will run into the hundreds of millions of dollars. In the late 80's and early 90's the members of George Draper & Sons again turned their attention to the weave room and began a line of very extensive and expensive experiments on automatic looms, which resulted in 1894 in 18 HISTORY. introducing to the cotton manufacturers of this country the Northrop Loom. The experiments had assumed such shape in 1892 that the Northrop Loom Company was organized, but it was not until 1894 that the loom was placed before the textile trade in a commercial way. In December 1896 the present Draper Company was organized under the laws of Maine, taking over the property and business of the Hopedale Machine Company, the Hopedale Machine Screw Company, the Dutcher Temple Company, the firm of George Draper & Sons, and the United States patents and business of the Northrop Loom Company. Prior to this time the Hopedale Furnace Company and the Hopedale Elastic Goods Company had both been absorbed by the Hopedale Machine Company, This united and brought under one corporate body all the Hopedale interests, and since January 1, 1897 all this business has been done by the Draper Company, The Draper Company thus from its earliest antecedents has been at work on improving and introducing patented improvements on existing devices and machines. The patent law with its term of seventeen years monopoly is very inadequate protection in a finished art or where the holder of the patent is unwilling or unable to continue his control of his chosen field by constant efforts at improvement. We try to keep seventeen years ahead of the open art by a steady effort to improve our product, cheapen its cost of manufacture and simplify its component parts, Hundreds of thousands of dollars and constant attention to all possible improvements, coupled with a willingness and readiness to recognize and adopt any improvement that will tend to benefit the manufacturer have been the factors that have kept our machines far ahead of anything procurable in the market to accomplish similar results, We are as interested today in inventions in our line as we ever have been in the past. We are anxious to see any device invented for use on our machines. A number of our most important improvements have been invented outside our works and we hope to continue to have opportunities to purchase new ideas in our line. Practical men in the mills, dealing with practical problems that confront them in their regular work, meet these problems, study them, and overcome them, and such solutions are always interesting, often ingenious and sometimes new and patentable. When in our line, we are always interested in such solutions and ready to examine and report to inventors on these devices. HISTORY, 19 A new device should be useful and patentable to be of value, A useful device is one that either cheapens the cost of production without lowering the quality, or one that betters the quality without increasing the cost of production, or both. Of course the device of greatest value is one that results in cheapening the product to the manufacturer so that his cloth costs him less per yard or his yarn less per pound. If the saving in this way is large the actual cost of manufacture of the new idea is relatively unimportant, for the manufacturer is buying a result rather than a machine. Now granting the result to be new and useful, and thus patentable, to be of real value it should be so novel that the patent issued be a broad patent. An idea that is of the greatest use, that saves the manufacturer great sums of money each year, has little salable value without broad patent protection. The Company taking hold of an idea of this sort, introducing and perfecting it, pushing it through its sales force and by advertising, only ends with the disadvantage, when the device is firmly established in the market, of having this heavy initial expense as a handicap in competing with manufacturers in the same line of machines in an open market, A device then must be capable of adequate patent protection to be of salable value to the machinery manufacturer even granting its producing value to a mill organization. These are the inventions that command large prices and make fortunes for inventor and machine builder alike; these inventions are relatively rare. Soon after the invention and during the early days of the introduction of some real improvement, there springs up a number of alternate ways to accomplish the new result. These ways are patentable over the original way, but the result being the same may be covered by the claims of the prior patent. They are of no interest except to the holder of the early patent, and only of interest to him where they suggest improvements in design or cheapness of manufacture, where they are purchased to strengthen the position of the broad patent, or where they cover an improved construction when the main patent expires. The great majority of ideas that are submitted yearly for our examination and to report on never reach the Patent Office. A few are so impractical and unmechanical that they are of no value, but the rest of the ideas are so practical and so good that they have been incorporated into the claims of patents already issued to other inventors. Sometimes a number of inventors hit upon a similar solution of a difficulty which in the nature of the goods produced has arisen in 20 HISTORY, several mills hundreds of miles apart and the controlling factor in a case like this is priority of invention. During the period of our business relations with the textile trade, manufacturers have tried and adopted a large number of our textile improvements. These improvements sold by us have never cost a single mill a single cent in the way of royalty to other parties, or in the way of defending patents suits. A device bought from us has brought with it complete protection from the expenditure of time and money on patent litigation. Coupled with this immunity from patent prosecution we can conservatively state that we have cut in half the cost of spinning, spooling and weaving. INTERESTING DATES IN COTTON MACHINERY HISTORY, The following table of the dates of important inventions or events that are of interest in the history of cotton manufacturing runs down to 1870. The patents mentioned in the table up to 1790 are all English patents and after that date are nearly all American patents; the few foreign inventions after 1790 are specifically indicated. 1730— First cotton yarn spun in England by machinery by Wyatt. 1733— English patent granted John Kay for the invention of the fly shuttle. 1738— Patent granted Lewis Paul for the spinning machinery supposed to have been invented by John Wyatt. 1742— First mill for spinning cotton built at Birmingham; moved by asses; not successful. 1748— Patent on a cylinder card as first used by hand, granted Lewis Paul. 1750— Fly shuttle in general use in England. 1756— Cotton velvets and quiltings first made in England. 1760— Stock cards first used for cotton by James Hargreaves. Drop box invented by Kay. 1767 / Spinning-jenny invented by Hargreaves. 1769— Richard Arkwright obtains his first patent on spinning. HISTORY. 21 1774 — Bill passed in England to prevent the export of cotton machinery. 1775 — Second patent of Arkwright on carding, drawing and spinning. -J rrrrq \ Mule spinning invented by Samuel Crompton. ) Peele's patent on carding, roving and spinning. 1782— Wattes patent for the steam engine. 1783— Bounty granted in England for export on certain cotton goods. 1785 — Power loom invented by Dr. Edmund Cartwright. Cylinder printing invented by Bell. A warp stop-motion described in Cartwright's patent. 1785 — First application of steam to driving textile machinery at Popplewick Notts, England. 1788 — First cotton factory built in the United States at Beverly. 1 789 ^ Island cotton first planted in the United States. \ Samuel Slater starts cotton machinery in New York. 1790 — First cotton factory built in Rhode Island by Slater. 1792 — First American loom patent granted to Kirk and Leslie. 1794 — Cotton gin patented by Elias Whitney. 1801 — Date given for invention of the Jacquard machine in France. , 1803— Dressing machine and warper invented in England by Radcliffe, Ross and Johnson. 1804— First cotton mill built in New Hampshire, at New Ipswich. 1805 — Power loom successfully introduced in England after many failures. 1806— First cotton mill built in Connecticut, at Pomfret. 1809— First cotton mill built in Maine, at Brunswick. 1811— First cotton mill built at Fall River, Mass. 1814 — Cotton opener with lap attachment invented in England by Creighton. 1815— Power loom introduced into the United States at Waltham. 1816— *First loom temple of Ira Draper patented in the United States. 1818— Machinery for preparing sewing cotton invented in England by Holt. 1822 — First cotton factory erected at Lowell. ( Differential motion for roving frames patented by 1823 j Arnold. ( First export of raw cotton from Egypt to England, 1824— Tube frame or speeder patented by Charles Danforth. 1825 — Self-acting mule patented in England by Roberts. 22 HISTORY. 1828 ^ -^^^^ spinning patented by John Thorpe. \ Cap spinning patented by Danforth. 1829 — *Revolving loom temple improvements patented by Ira Draper. 1832— Stop-motion for drawing frames invented by Bachelder. 1833 — Ring spinning frames first built by William Mason. ( Weft fork patented in England by Ramsbottom and 1834 ] Hope. ( Shuttle-changing loom by Reid and Johnson. f Automatic loomi let-off of E. B. Bigelow invented about 1840 \ time. 1 *Important temple improvement patented by George L Draper. 1842 — Weft fork perfected in England by James Bullough. 1846 — ^Parallel shuttle-motion patented by W. W. Dutcher. 1849 — First cotton mill erected at Lawrence. 1850 — "^Hayden's patent for railway-head evener, 1851 — ^Reciprocating temple patent of E. & W. W. Dutcher. 1852 — ^Important improvement in loom temple patented by E. & W. W. Dutcher. 1853 — Card-cleaning patent of G. Wellman. 1857— *Snell & Bartlett's let-off patent, r Cheetham. shuttle-changing loom patent; the first 1859 ] American attempt in this direction. ( "^Williamx Stearns' shuttle-motion patent. 1862 ^ Shepard's let-off patent. ( *Card-guide patent of Hervey Kent. 1863 — ^George Draper's loom stop-motion; used on every side dagger loom in the country, 1865 — Thomas Mayor's patent on roving frame improvements. 1866— *First spindle patent, to J. E. Atwood. 1867 "^Cottrell & Draper's double beam let-off patent. \ ^Important spindle patent granted Rabbeth & Atwood. r*W. F. Draper's thin place preventer patent for looms. I *First American self -threading shuttle patent of J. A. 1868-^ Metcalf. *Patent of F. Haythorn, for the first spinning frame separator. { Important loom patent of Erastus B. Bigelow, 1869^ "^First bobbin-holder patent of A. M. Wade. *W. T. Carroll's double flange spinning ring patent. l^*First inside-catch shuttle patent, to J. H. Coburn. 1870 ^ original Walmsley warper stop-motion. ( Oliver Pearl's spindle patent. *These devices all came under control of Hopedale interests at some period of their patent existence. STATISTICS. 23 STATISTICS. The statistics published in this work were collected from a variety of sources and go to prove the importance of this American industry and its steady continuous advance. The technical tables have been carefully prepared and are as accurate as the nature of the case will allow. They have been adopted only after careful inspection; are compiled from the best sources available; and we trust will continue to be of good service. LEGAL HOLIDAYS IN THE TEXTILE STATES. There are no national holidaj^s. Congress has on different occasions appointed special holidays, and recently passed an act making Labor Day a legal holiday in the District of Columbia, It has recognized, but not legalized, as holidays for the District of Columbia certain days that are very generally established as legal holidays throughout the States. The Presidential proclamation of Thanksgiving Day only makes a legal holiday in the District of Columbia and the national territories. January 1, New Year's Day. Legal holiday in all the textile states except Kansas and Massachusetts; and in Maine, where it is only a bank holiday. January 8, Anniversary of the Battle of New Orleans. Louisiana. January 19, Lee's Birthday. Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina and Virginia. February, Mardi Gras. In the Parish of Orleans, Louisiana, February 12, Lincoln's Birthday. California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania and West Virginia. February 12, Georgia Day. Georgia. 24 STATISTICS. February 22, Washington's Birthday. All the textile states. March 2, Anniversary of Texas' Independence. Texas. Good Friday, Alabama, Connecticut, Delaware, Louisiana, Maryland, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Tennessee. April 12, Anniversary of Halifax Independence Resolutions. North Carolina. April 13, Jefferson's Birthday. Alabama. April 19, Patriots' Day. Maine and Massachusetts. April 21, Anniversary of the Battle of San Jacinto. Texas. April 26, Confederate Memorial Day. Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi. May 10, Confederate Memorial Day. North Carolina, South Carolina, and the Second Friday in May in Tennessee. May 20, Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence. North Carolina. May 30, Memorial Day. All the textile states except Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee and Texas. June 3, Jefferson Davis' Birthday. Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas; and a public school holiday in Virginia. July 4, Independence Day. All the textile states. July, Fourth Saturday, Primary Election Day. Texas. August 16, Bennington Battle Day. Vermont. September, First Monday, Labor Day. All Textile states except Louisiana, where it is observed in the Orleans Parish. September 9, Admission Day. California. September 12, Old Defenders' Day. In the City of Baltimore, Md. October 12, Columbus Day. California, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Texas, Vermont. November 6, All Saints' Day. Louisiana. November, General Election Day. Legal holiday throughout the Textile States in such years as state or national elections occur. STA TISTICS. 25 November, Thanksgiving day. (Almost universally the last Thursday in November). All the textile states. December 25, Christmas day. All the textile states. Mississippi has no legal holidays by Statute, but by common consent the 4th of July, Thanksgiving Day and Christmas are universally observed. Arbor Day is a legal holiday in a few of the textile states, though in some it is only observed when designated by proclamation of the Governor. There are a number of the states that have by state law established legal holidays every Saturday after twelve o^ clock noon, the laws varying in various states. In California in public offices; in Maryland, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Virginia it is a banking holiday; also a banking holiday in New Orleans, La., and Charleston, S. C. ; in Louisiana in cities exceeding 10,000 inhabitants; in Tennessee it is a legal holiday for city and county offices ; in Indiana from the first Saturday in June to the last Saturday in October inclusive for all public offices in counties having a county seat of 100,000 or larger; in New Hampshire it is a legal holiday in the State offices. GENERAL FACTS OF PHYSICS. Tenacity is proportioned to the area of the cross section. A freely falling body traverses a distance of 16.08 feet the first second* The distance traversed in any number of seconds is equal to 16.08 X number of seconds squared. The length of a second pendulum is about 39 inches. A horse power represents the ability to raise 33,000 pounds one foot high in one minute. Water weighs about 623^ pounds to cubic foot. The pressure of the atmosphere is about 15 pounds to the square inch. 26 STATISTICS. Gold Medal Liege 1905 28 STATISTICS. Gold Medal Milan 1906 Gold Medal St. Louis 1904 We illustrate medals av/arded Draper Company at international expositions, for improved dwellings for employees. STATISTICS. 29 1801 1802 1803 1804 1805 1806 1807 1808 1809 1810 1811 1812 1813 1814 1815 1816 1817 1818 1819 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 1843 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 Capital Invested IN Cotton Manu- facturing IN THE United States. $40,612,984 $74,500,934 Value OF Products. Number OF Spindles. $32,000,000 $46,350,453 $61,869,184 4,500 8,000 31,000 87,000 122,646 130,000 220,000 230,000 705,000 1,246,703 1,750,000 2,285,337 2,500,000 2,751,078 30 STATISTICS. 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 1877 1878 1879 1880 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1894 1895 1896 1897 1898 1899 1900 Capital Invested IN Cotton Manu- facturing IN THE United States. $98,585,269 $140,706,291 $208,280,346 $354,020,843 $460,842,772 Value OF Products. $115,681,774 $177,489,739 $192,090,110 $267,981,724 Number OF Spindles. 5,235,727 $332,806,156 6,700,557 7,132,415 9,415,383 10,635,435 11,375,000 12,150,000 12,660,000 13,300,000 13,375,000 13,400,000 13,500,000 13,550,000 14,060,000 14,405,000 14,640,000 15,200,000 15,550,000 15,700,000 16,100,000 16,650,000 17,150,000 17,450,000 18,100,000 20,000,000 STATISTICS. 31 Capital Invested IN Cotton Manu- facturing IN THE United States. Value OF Products. 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911 $822,238,000 $628,392,000 Number OF Spindles. 20,200,000 21,400,000 22,000,000 22,850,000 23,687,000 25,811,681 26,939,415 27,964,387 28,573,435 28,929,093 30,803,662 COMPARISON OF CAPITAL INVESTED AND NUMBER OF WAGE EARNERS IN DIFFERENT TEXTILE INDUSTRIES IN 1910. Capital. Wage Earners. Cotton and cotton small Wares Manufactures $822, 238, 000 378, 880 Wool and worsted manufactures.. 430,579,000 168,722 Hosiery and knit goods 163,641,000 129,275 Silk manufactures 152,158,000 99,037 Dyeing and finishing 114, 093, 000 44, 046 Totals $1,682,709,000 819,960 32 STATISTICS, COTTON MILL PRODUCTS, 1910. ARRANGED IN ORDER OF YARDS WOVEN. cent- intity cent- ilue Square Yards Rough Per ag-e of Qua Value Rough Per age of Vt Total Woven Goods 6,348,568,593 100 $456, 089,401 100 Printers' and Converters Cloth 2,224,677,848 35 111,097, 889 24 Sheetings and Shirtings ■1 AC^A ofo forv 1,484,353, 529 23 88,802,985 20 Ginghams 537, 430, 4d3 Q O 37,939,040 Q O Fancy Woven Fabrics... 426,710,359 7 47,498,713 10 Twills and Sateens 388,314,961 5 34,274,107 7 Napped Fabrics 305,655,864 5 25,695,367 1 icks, Denims andStripes 264,870,508 4 27,350,162 6 Drills SfiQ 407 4 17 7fS0 151 4 Duck 162,476,322 3 27,485,892 6 Upholstery Goods 94,840,051 2 14,882,842 3 Bags and Bagging 63,107,568 1 4,862,451 1 Mosquito and other Netting 59,100,819 2,103,560 Cotton Towels 52,778,170 6,037,075 1 Cottonades 25,676,286 3,343,533 Corduroy, Cotton Velvet and Plush 19,706,438 6,965,634 1 Pounds. Yarns for sale 470,370,995 109,314,953 Thread 23,700,957 20,516,269 Twine 13,715,771 2,417,391 Cordage and Rope 7,603,907 1,164,526 Cotton Waste sold 310,513,348 10,874,386 Tape and Webbing 5,531,674 All other products 22,483,213 Total value of all products $628, 391, 813 COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT TEXTILE INDUSTRIES IN 1910. Manu- Value of domestic Exports. Imports. Total factures. products. consumption. Cotton $628,391,813 $34,414,860 $68,380,780 $662,357,733 Wool 419,743,521 2,123,165 22,058,712 439,679,068 Silk 196,911,667 976,231 32,963,162 228,898,598 Totals $1,245,047,001 $37,514,256 $123,402,654 $1,330,935,399 STATISTICS. 33 O H O I— I Q o o o Q m m < o <^ H Ul <^ o o I— I H O P O Ph Ct3 o m P iz; o CL, O CD <>] OS CTJ CO rH^OO I>- o^" ^d" Lo" oT o" oo" u:f (^r C0'^oocot:^^ol>-t:-0 o CO T— 1 o o o 00^ (Nl^ 1—1 CD o" lO rH CD o:> lO I:- CD 1:^ th co" t>^ tH 0 ^ lO ^ t:- CD ^ t> tH GO CD Oi O CD ^ Oi (M CM 00 CO I>- 00 ^ ^ O 00 ^ O ^ -st^ Oi Oi lO CD CO ^ t:- 01 Oi CO 1— I Oi as 00 CD CO 00 Oi LO 00 rH r^H I O ^ 00 i— I CO CD C 00 rH (>q T— I LO iO LO 00 CD a:i O CO (M LO CD (M O 00 CD O 00 Oi O CO CO LO ^ T— I tr- 00 ^ l>- Oi t> O T— I CO CO C^l CO rti O tr- 00 LO O i— I rH LO (M COCDCO(Mt— lOOt-LOOOOOO OOt— I'^TtiLOC^lLO'^C^CNT— IrH COCOCOCOCD'^ CO(M T— I Oi 00 ^ CO CO ^ CD CD (M O C> Oi CD LO CD T— I t— I LO 00 00 00 O t> OS Oi I:- l>- O 00 O rH LO t^- CO CD CM O 00 O CO Oi CD 00 00 ^ lO LO Oi as (Nl O O CD O CO 00 CO O rH I>- CD LO O T— I LO O T— I CO CD t^- tH CO t>- O LO 00 as o tr- 00 o c3 l:^ 00 00 CO 1— I (Nl t>- LO t>- CD LO CO LO LO LO 00 00 T— I T—i CO rH T— I LO 00 l>- T— I as ^ T}< l> LO I>- I> 00 CD T— I CO tH (M T— I (M rH t— I OOCO(MLOLOCOOO(M-^OOLOOCDrHLOaS(MCDLOT— IrHCO C^LOt>ast>-(>]C^Cv]C^'^rHi— l(N00aST— lt>-rHT— ICOCNJLO C
  • -^rHaSrHLOt>-COOCDCOT— It-CO-^COT-HLOCDOO CO'xt^t>THaST— ICDt>COT— It-THasCDOOCOOOrHCDt^asOO CCDrHO00O-^(MrHT:tt:-t:-as^L0CD LOCDCDt>-^CO^OO^(MasCO^CDCDCOCDOOt>LOCOt:- COOO-^OCCDT^iCO(NI(M(MT-H^T-lT-l LO CO C5^^ 03 ^ i ^*UiJ WSJ w ' >*»' ^ ^ "^-^ >j 03 ^ O C3 § o^ S^ §5 S|l S § S = S2;MC5;z;EHSfL,:z;HSMWHjt> o CD as (M (M ^ 00 (Ni 00 CO as CD (NrarTj^tr-^aTcr lo as as CO o ^ as CD CO (>3 m Q :z; I— I Ul o OS as T— I OS o CD Tij^ 00 00 CD as 00 CO T-H O^^^ CD" CD oT (M" \S \S LO (M CO 1— I 'sh rH T^i C<1 CO as 00 (M O CO O O CD (M as CD tH ^ as o ^ CO CO o Co" 00 (nT (nT CD as rH CD tH CO (M t> (M (M O lO O CD CD 00 00 CO O 00 O OJtH TJH 00 oo" (m" co" co" tr- CD 00 00 tH CD ^ CO CD <>] oo" co" oT -st^" o" t-^ (M (M T— I tH T— I as CO CO CO C:- 'st^ CO LO T— 1 1> as cd" T-+ i-T (>f o" 00 (M o as i>- CO 00 i>- as o T-i CO co" 00 CO oo" CO aT CO (M CM T-H T-H o o X !3 O o o o o 1-H o o as 00 as as as 00 00 00 STA TISTICS. Carpets and Rugs. (M 1— 1 T-H (M T-H 0:1 O ^ O 00 LO 0 00 00 T— 1 rH*" T-T of ocT ocT t-h" T— 1 rH 0 urs 00 10 u::) 0 Oi (M Oi t^- (M CD O^CD^Oi^as^ rH^C^Too'oo" 1 orsted Goods. CO 00 0 Oi 00 00 I>C^ 00 CN 0 (M oT 00" ctT oT i-T crT 00 T— 1 1— 1 in the Manufacture of- tH CD 00 00 T— 1 ^ NUMBER OF LOOMS. Woolen Goods. 00 ^ ^ 00 LO 00 ^ 0 00 u:d 00 T— 1 tH !>- LO tH 00" 00 CD 00" (M" 00 00 00 00 00 00 ^ CD 00 00 tH Used Silk Goods. CO ^ IXM rH tH 0 t- 10 C- (M 00 00 LcT oT cT lo" T-T t> LO ^ (>q 00 00 00 00 00 t> -sJH 00 tH t:- T-i w rH 00" ■0 Cotton Goods. ^ (M CD 00 00 10 00 LO CD 00 ^ CD^l> I>- 00 00 I>- \S oT iS ^ t-" t-" CD 10 (M 10 CD 10 ^ 00 (N rH T—l T— 1 T— 1 tH tH tH Total. 00 ^ rH T—l l>- 00 rH Oi Oi ^ C^'~ Class of Looms and Census. 0 0 0 0 0 T-H 0 0 Oi 00 t>- 00 00 00 tH T— 1 T-H T— 1 T— 1 tH 0 Ph 0 LO 0 0 0 0 rH 0 0 Oi 00 t> 05 0:1 OS 00 00 00 rH rH T— 1 T— 1 T— 1 1— 1 38 STATISTICS. ANNUAL EXPORTS OF COTTON GOODS TO THE CHINESE EMPIRE. Yards of Year goods Value 1900 101,687,030 $5,205,802 1901 201,368,671 10,224,215 1902 326,419,489 16,048,455 1903 181,741,678 8,801,964 1904 248,671,197 13,911,566 1905 562,732,721 33,514,818 1906 270,799,275 16,704,823 1907 38,443,859 2,678,528 1908 79,635,264 4,536,209 1909 154,460,002 9,071,601 1910 65,506,099 4,151,340 1911 110,163,246 7,567,334 SPINDLES IN USE. The total number of spindles in use on August 31, 1912 as given by the International Federation of Master Cotton Spinners' and Manufacturers Associations. Great Britain 55, 317, 083 United States 30,313,000 Germany 10,725,732 Russia 8,800,000 France 7,400,000 India 6,195,214 Austria 4,797,935 Italy 4,580,000 Spain 2,200,000 Japan 2,191,960 Switzerland 1,408,456 Belgium 1,387,654 Canada 855,293 Sweden 529,772 Portugal 480,000 Holland 453,752 Denmark 83,684 Norway 73,568 Mexico, Brazil and other countries 2,900,000 Total 140,693,103 STATISTICS. 39 COMPARISON OF THE GOVERNMENT ESTIMATE OF THE COTTON CROP WITH THE GOVERNMENT FINAL REPORT OF THE CROP PRODUCED. December Department of Agriculture Final crop statement of Department of Agriculture Season of 1899-1900 8,900,000 9,507,000 Season of 1900-1901 10,100,000 10,245,000 Season of 1901-1902 9,674,000 9,748,000 Season of 1902-1903 10,417,000 10,784,000 Season of 1903-1904 9,962,000 10,015,000 Season of 1904-1905 12,168,000 13,697,000 Season 01 lyuo-iyub 1 A 1 an f\c\r\ iU,iO<,0UU 1 A rZOC AAA iU, /Zo,UUU Season of 1906-1907 12,546,000 13,305,000 Season of 1907-1908 11,678,000 11,325,000 Season of 1908-1909 12,920,000 13,432,000 Season of 1909-1910 10,j088,000 10,386,000 Season of 1910-1911 11,426,000 11,965,000 Season of 1911-1912 14,885,000 144,931,000 16,109,000 151,243,000 The average underestimate by the Department of Agriculture for this period of years is just over 4 per cent. The number of bales in the final statement given here does not agree with the table on the second page following because in the present case the returns are given for the number of bales and in the latter case the annual yield has been reduced to a statistical bale of 500 pounds net weight. Cloth of Prehistoric Peru. 40 STATISTICS. PRINT-CLOTH STATISTICS. Probable Average Cost per Margin Highest Price of Lowest Price. Price Average Lb. of Between Price of (Not per Lb. in Cents Price of Cotton Cotton Year. Print Print Average Middling Used and Cloth Cloth of High at 7 yds. Uplands in Cents, Cloth in Cents. in Cents. and per Lb. per Lb. with 15 in Cents Low.) in Cents. per cent. per Lb. Waste. 1860 5^ 9 5.44 38.08 11. 12.94 25.14 1861 5.33 37.31 13.01 15.31 22. 1862 141^ 7 9.81 68.67 31.29 36.81 31.86 1863 19 10^ 15.20 106.40 67.21 79.07 27.33 1864 m/2 16^ 23.42 163.94 101.50 119.41 44.53 1865 10 20.24 141.68 83.38 98.09 43.69 1866 11^ 14.13 98.91 43.20 50.82 48.09 1867 12 Q% 9.12 63.84 31.59 37.16 26.68 1868 9^ 8.18 57.26 24.85 29.24 28.02 1869 93^ 8.30 ' 58.10 29.01 34.13 23.97 21.77 1870 %K 63^ 7.14 49.98 23.98 28.21 1871 8 63^ 7% 7.41 51.87 16.95 19.94 31.93 1872 9 7.88 55.16 22.19 26.11 29.05 1873 73^ 6% 6g 6.69 46.83 20.14 23.69 23.14 1874 63^ 5.57 38.99 17.95 21.11 17.88 1875 6^ 4% 5.33 37.31 15.46 18.19 19.12 1876 3^ 4.10 28.70 12.98 15.27 13.43 1877 ^y^ 4.38 30.66 11.82 13.90 16.76 1878 4 3.44 24.08 11.22 13.20 10.88 1879 4)^ 5.87 3A 3k 3.93 27.51 10.84 12.75 14.76 1880 4.51 31.57 11.51 13.54 18.03 1881 33? 3.95 27.65 12.03 14.15 13.50 1882 3.95 3?| 3.76 26.32 11.56 13.60 12.72 1883 3ii 3.44 3.60 25.20 11.88 13.98 11.22 1884 3.62 3.08 3.36 23.52 10.88 12.80 10.72 1885 3^ 2.98 3.12 21.84 10.45 12.29 9.55 1886 3i| 33^ 3.31 23.17 9.28 10.91 12.26 1887 3?^ 314 3.33 23.31 10.21 12.01 11.30 1888 4 33^ 3.81 26.67 10.03 11.80 14.87 1889 4tV 3>^ 3.81 26.67 10.65 12.52 14.15 1890 3t% 3 3.34 23.38 11.07 13.02 10.36 1891 3rs 2% 2.95 20.65 8.60 10.11 10.54 1892 4t^ % 3.39 23.73 7.71 9.07 14.66 1893 4 2% 3.30 23.10 8.56 10.07 13.03 1894 3^ ^¥ 2.75 19.25 6.94 8.16 11.09 1895 3x^s 2r5 2.86 20.02 7.44 8.75 11.27 1896 3 2t5 2.60 18.20 7.93 9.33 8.87 1897 oil <^\^ 2H 2.48 17.36 7. 8.24 9.12 1898 IVs 2.06 14.42 5.94 6.99 7.43 1899 314 2% 2.69 18.83 6.88 , 8.09 10.74 1900 3i| 2% 3.21 22.47 9.25 10.88 11.59 1901 3% 2% 2.84 19.88 8.75 10.29 9.59 1902 3 3.11 21.77 9. 10.59 11.18 1903 3% 3 3.25 22.75 11.18 13.15 9.60 1904 3 3.44 24.08 11.75 13.82 10.26 1905 3% 2ys 3.12 21.84 9.80 11.53 10.31 1906 4 3.62 25.34 11.50 13.53 11.81 1907 4.75 33.25 12.10 14.23 19.02 1908 1909 4^1 3.35 23.45 10.62 12.49 10.96 4 3 3.59 25.13 12.68 14.92 10.21 1910 414 3 3.89 27.23 15.11 17.77 9.46 1911 3 3.49 24.43 13.08 15.39 9.04 STATISTICS. 41 Cotton Crop of the United States Expressed in Sta- tistical Bales of 500 Pounds Net Weight. Crop in Average Crop in Average Year. thousands Price in Year. thousands Price in of bales. Cents. of bales. Cents. 1788-89 2,000 1851-52 2,676.000 12.14 1789-90 3,000 14.5 1852-53 2.993,000 9.5 1790-91 4,000 26. 1853-54 2.643.000 11.02 1791-92 6,000 26. 1854-55 2.588,000 10.97 1792-93 10,000 29. 1855-56 3.069.000 10.39 1793-94 16,000 32. 1856-57 2.746.000 10.30 1794-95 16,000 33. 1857-58 2,879.000 13.51 1795-96 20,000 36.5 1858-59 3.592.000 12.23 1796-97 22,000 36.5 1859-60 4,582,000 12.08 1797-98 30,000 34. 1860-61 3.672,000 11. 1798-99 40,000 39. 1861-62 4,293.000 13.01 1799-00 70,000 44. 1862-63 1.526.000 31.29 1800-01 96,000 28. 1863-64 429,000 67.21 1801-02 110,000 44. 1864-65 286,000 101.50 1802-03 120,000 19. 1865-66 2,000,000 83.38 1803-04 130,000 19. 1866-67 2,062.000 43.20 1804-05 140,000 20. 1867-68 2.242,000 31.59 1805-06 160,000 23. 1868-69 2.101.000 24.85 1806-07 160,000 22. 1869-70 2.703.000 29.01 1807-08 150,000 21.5 1870-71 3.830,000 23.98 1808-09 164,000 19. 1871-72 2.641.000 16.95 1809-10 170,000 16. 1872-73 3,510,000 22.19 1810-11 160,000 16. 1873-74 3.634,000 20.14 1811-12 150,000 15.5 1874-75 3,393.000 17.95 1812-13 150,000 10.5 1875-76 4,122,000 15.46 1813-14 140,000 12. 1876-77 3,971.000 12.98 1814-15 200,000 15. 1877-78 4,282.000 11.82 1815-16 248,000 21. 1878-79 4.556.000 11.22 1816-17 260,000 29.5 1879-80 5,412,000 10.84 1817-18 250,000 26.5 1880-81 6,062,000 11.51 1818-19 334,000 34. 1881-82 4,904.000 12.03 1819-20 320,000 24. 1882-83 6.452.000 11.56 1820-21 360,000 17. 1883-84 5.225.000 11.88 1821-22 420,000 16. 1884-85 5.198.000 10.88 1822-23 370,000 16.5 1885-86 6.030.000 10.45 1823-24 430,000 11. 1886-87 5.977.000 9.28 1824-25 510,000 15. 1887-88 6.516,000 10.21 1825-26 700,000 21. 1888-89 6,736.000 10.03 1826-27 540,000 11. 1889-90 6.888.000 10.65 1827-28 650,000 9.5 1890-91 8.242.000 11.07 1828-29 730,000 10.25 1891-92 8.526,000 8.60 1829-30 700,000 10. 1892-93 6,318.000 7.71 1830-31 770,000 10. 1893-94 7,115,000 8.56 1831-32 780,000 9.25 1894-95 9,480,000 6.94 1832-33 890,000 10. 1895-96 6,798,000 7.44 1833-34 920,000 IL 1896-97 8.281,000 7.93 1834-35 921,000 13. 1897-98 10,775,000 7. 1835-36 1,014,000 16.5 1898-99 10,940,000 5.94 1836-37 1,078,000 13.25 1899-00 8,997,000 6.88 1837-38 1,365,000 10.14 1900-01 9,991,000 9.25 1838-39 1,045,000 13.36 1901-02 10,344,000 8.75 1 ceo AAA 8.92 *1 AAO AO 190Z-03 "1 A C%n A AAA 10,^74,000 9. 1840-41 1,288,000 9.50 1903-04 9,682,000 11.18 1841-42 1,337,000 7.85 1904-05 13,436,000 11.75 1842-43 1,945,000 7.25 1905-06 10,919,000 9.80 1843-44 1,692,000 7.73 1906-07 13,269,000 11.50 1844-45 1,987 000 5.63 1907-08 11,089,000 12.10 1845-46 1,726,000 7.87 1908-09 13,458,000 10.62 1846-47 1,513,000 11.21 1909-10 10,155,000 12.68 1847-48 2,034,000 8.03 1910-11 11,834,000 15.11 1848-49 2,499,000 7.55 1911-12 15,876,000 13.08 1849-50 2,000,000 11. 1850-51 2,041,000 12.34 Read price column with reference to first column of year figures. Prices given are for calendar year. 42 COTTON. COTTON. Historically the source of origin of the cotton plant is shrouded in mystery. It was known in India hundreds of years before the Christian era. Columbus found cotton in the West Indies in 1492; Cortez found it in Mexico in 1519; Pizarro found it in Peru in 1522, and Peruvian mummies have been found wrapped in cotton cloths. The cotton plant is grown in the Southern states of the United States, in India, Egypt, China, Brazil, Peru, Asiatic Russia and more recently in Central and South Africa. Some few thousand bales have also been raised in Southern California. The South Atlantic and lower Mississippi States are the real source of the cotton supply of the world, raising about 70 percent of the annual yield available for spinning. This crop is the principal product of these states, and has the highest ultimate money value of any crop raised in the COTTON. 43 entire country. It furnishes the raw material for one of our most important manufacturing industries, and is our largest item of export. Botanically the cotton plant is of the Malvaceae or Mallow family, and its generic name Gossypium was given it by Pliny during the first century of the Christian era. The plants while naturally perennial and in some countries so treated, are in America cultivated as annuals. The number of distinct botanical species is limited, but the varieties due to changes in soil and methods of cultivation number over one hundred. The long staple Sea Island cotton is a distinct species, and is generally supposed to have been a native of the West Indies. In the early days of cotton raising it was customary to raise the annual crop in one place through a series of years until the fertility of the soil was exhausted and then to move to virgin territory. In modern times, however, it has become the recognized practice to fertilize the fields and the crop responds freely to this method of treatment. In the cotton crop statistics, which we give, various sources of information have been consulted, and with the early crops, especially, there is quite a variation between equally good authorities. The list given, however, is accurate enough for practical purposes. The tables from 1870 on are copied by courtesy of the late Colonel A. B. Shepperson, from the various editions of his **Cotton Facts," and since his death the commercial crop as given by the Shepperson Publishing Company has been followed. The prices from 1821 are for Middling Upland in New York City, and the prices are listed to correspond to the first of the dates in year column. The following are the United States Official Cotton 44 COTTON. Grades, established by the Department of Agriculture of the United States Government: Middling fair Strict Middling Good Middling Strict Good Middling Middling Strict low middling Low middling Strict good ordinary Good ordinary. These grades have been officially adopted by the following cotton exchanges and associations: New Orleans Macon Memphis Mobile St. Louis Oklahoma Charleston New England Buyers Natchez Arkwright Club Little Rock Southern Cotton Buyers Galveston Fall River Cotton Buyers The picking of the cotton crop is still carried on by hand. It is a very expensive and crude way to gather the crop costing millions of dollars annually; there is no doubt that sometime in the future some genius will invent a machine which will save a large share of this w^aste of energy, and do the actual gathering of the fibre better than it is now done. Having gathered the crop the next process is separating the lint from the seed. The machines used for this process are known as gins, and are of two distinct types, roller gins and saw gins. The roller gin is the more ancient, and is said to have been used in a crude way by the Hindus from the earliest times. It was a hand process and extremely slow. The advent of the saw gin invented by Eli Whitney revolutionized the process, and gave a new impetus to cotton raising and cotton manufacture. The saw gin is more liable to injure the fibre, but is still used almost exclusively for the main cotton crop, the roller gin being confined to the long stapled Sea Island cotton. Here again is an opening for any inventor who will devise a gin that will give the product of the saw gin and the quality of the roller gin. By far the largest part of the cotton crop is sold to the COTTON, 45 manufacturer in bales. The Egyptian bale is packed to an average density of 45 pounds to the cubic foot, as against about 22 pounds for the average American bale. We think of Egypt as a relic of the past, but in the baling of cotton our twentieth century Americans may well pattern after Egypt. While the Egyptian bale is in every way prepared for the accidents and wear and tear incident to travel, the American bale is anything but a credit to the American farmer, compress owner and exporter. A few of the Southern cotton mills avoid entirely the baling of cotton by being located in the cotton fields, the cotton being carried directly from the gin to the mills. The advantages consist mainly in examining on the ground the staple and color of the cotton, and in having an opportunity for picking over and selecting from the crop gathered in the neighborhood. An Alabama Cotton Field. 46 COTTON. REVISED NEW ENGLAND TERMS FOR BUYING AND SELLING AMERICAN COTTON (Except Sea Island). Accepted by the Arkwright Club, the New England Cotton Buyers' Association and The Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association, in effect september 1, 1912. NOTICE. Sections designated Short'' apply to short staple cotton only. Sections designated ''Long" apply to long staple cotton only. Sections designated ''Both" apply to both long and short staple. CLASSIFICATION. 1. (Both.) The United States Government standard classification shall be used. 2. (Both.) Sales calling for even-running grades, or made on type, may contain 5 per cent, half a grade below the grade specified if offset by an equal number of bales half a grade above that specified. ' 3. (Both.) Sales calling for average grade, or made on type, may contain 5 per cent, half a grade below the lowest grade specified if offset by an equal number of bales half a grade above the highest grade specified. 4. (Both.) Any excess of low grade may be rejected by the purchaser, or claimed for at an allowance. If rejected the seller is to have the right to replace and the purchaser may require replacement. The cost and actual expenses of handling rejections shall be paid by the seller. 5. (Both.) Whenever a specific lot of cotton purchased by actual samples does not equal the samples, the purchaser shall have the right to reject the lot if less than one half is equal to the samples. If one half or more is equal to the samples, the purchaser may reject the portion not equal to the samples, but in either event samples of the entire mark must be exhibited to the seller. 6. (Both.) The cost and actual expenses of handling the rejections shall be paid by the seller, and in case of rejection the seller shall not be called upon to replace. COTTON. 47 DEFINITION OF SHORT STAPLE COTTON. 7. (Short.) The phrase * 'short staple/' as used in these terms, is hereby defined to mean any length of staple shorter than V/^ inch, regardless of the territory from which it is shipped. DEFINITION OF LONG STAPLE. 8. (Long.) The phrase ''long staple," as used in these terms, is hereby defined to mean \\i inch and longer, regardless of the territory from which it is shipped. DIFFERENCES BETWEEN GRADES. 9. (Short.) Differences between grades shall be fixed on the third Thursdays of September, November and February, and shall be the average of the differences existing on said dates in the New York, New Orleans, Memphis and Augusta Cotton Exchanges. Claims for allowances on grade of short staple cotton shall be determined as above. CLASSERS. 10. (Short.) The New England Cotton Buyers' Association or the Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association shall employ three or more cotton classers, three of whom are to act in each case, to class or staple all cotton submitted to them. 11. (Short.) The classers shall not undertake to declare the length of any staple, but shall judge of the length of staple of any lots submitted to them only in comparison with the length of staple of a type which has been agreed upon as a standard by the purchaser and seller, and which must be submitted with the samples of the lot in question. BOARD OF APPEAL. 12. (Both.) There shall be a Board of Appeal consisting of three members, as follows: One member of the New England Cotton Buyers' Association or the Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association and one manufacturer (with alternates to serve in case of the absence or disqualification of either) and a third to be selected by them. The Board of Appeal shall serve for one year or until their successors are appointed. 13. (Both. ) Any dispute between purchaser and seller as to whether a shipment conforms to the terms of a sale, the amount of any allowance, or the interpretation of any section of these terms, shall be referred to the Board of Appeal upon the request of either party in interest. The 48 COTTON, decision of the Board of Appeal shall be final. No person interested in the cotton involved shall serve as a member of the Board of Appeal. REDRAWN SAMPLES. 14. (Both.) In all cases where claims are made for off grade or where cotton is rejected, the purchaser shall furnish full-sized, redrawn samples from each bale of each mark, if required. SHIPMENTS. 15. (Both.) Unless otherwise specified, cotton sold for prompt or immediate shipment must be shipped and bills of lading dated within 14 days from the date of sale. 16. (Both.) When a sale is made for shipment in a certain month or months, cotton may be shipped at any time the shipper may elect during the month or months specified, but shipments must be made and bills of lading dated within the month or months specified. SHIPPING WEIGHTS. 17. (Both.) All sales shall be on the basis of guaranteed invoice weights. 18. (Short.) All short staple cotton from the States of Texas, Arkansas and Mississippi (with the exception of the upland portions) and from the New Orleans, Memphis and St. Louis markets shall be sold on the basis of 53,000 pounds for each 100 bales, and from the States of Oklahoma, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee and the upland portions of Mississippi on the basis of 50,000 pounds for each 100 bales; there may be a variation of 5 per cent, either way, in each case. 19. (Long.) All long staple cotton shall be sold on the basis of 53,000 pounds for each 100 bales, with a variation of 5 per cent, either way. 20. (Both.) If the number of bales shipped does not make the weight as above provided, the shipper may be required to add a sufficient number of bales to bring the total weight of the cotton delivered up to the weight called for on the above basis. 21. (Both.) If a less number of bales than the number sold will give the weight called for on the above basis, the purchaser may require that the number of bales delivered shall be reduced accordingly. COTTON, 49 22. (Both.) Written notice of any dissatisfaction with respect to shipping weights under the two preceding sections must be given by the purchaser not later than three days after receipt of invoice. SCALES. 23. (Both.) The purchaser shall have his scales tested and certified by a Sealer of Weights and Measures at least every three months, and the date when they were last tested shall be shown on all weight and tare returns. RECEIVING WEIGHTS. 24. (Both.) Cotton must be weighed as promptly as possible, but within 48 hours from the time it is taken from the car, or otherwise unloaded, and before it is stored. The receiving weight shall be tagged on each bale. There shall be 34 pound per bale allowance after 48 hours for every day's delay in weighing. 25. (Both.) All cotton must be weighed before any samples or bands have been removed. 26. (Both. ) All returns of weights must be sworn to or signed by a sworn weigher. 27. (Both. ) In case of loss in weight separate detailed weight returns for each mark showing the gross weight of each bale (without any deductions for dampness, extra bands or any other cause) must be given to the seller within 15 days after receipt of cotton by the purchaser. 28. (Both. ) When 95 per cent, of the cotton is received, if the balance of the shipment does not arrive within the next 15 days, the weights shall be reported as in Section 27, taking the average invoice weight for the short bales. The loss in weight shall be adjusted on this basis, and such weight settlement shall be final. 29. (Both.) If missing bales do not arrive within 30 days after the date of a claim for loss in weight, the purchaser shall make a claim against the transportation companies for the number of bales missing at that time, at the invoice weight and price, such claim to be filed for collection with the New England Freight Claim Bureau, either directly by the purchaser, or through the seller. 30. (Both.) When cotton is received by the purchaser in a wet or damaged condition it shall be immediately weighed and the seller and the transportation company notified in writing of its condition. The cotton shall be receipted for by 50 COTTON, the purchaser to the transportation company under protest, and the seller shall be immediately notified of such protest. 31. (Both.) Such cotton shall be held, giving the shipper an opportunity to investigate; but the purchaser shall not be required to so hold it for a longer period than 10 days. 32. (Both.) Upon request all returns of weights must be dated showing when the cotton arrived and when it was weighed, upon blanks in the following form: 33. (Both.) Dates Arrival and Weighing. 191 This is to certify that B/C marked shipped 191 by to arrived at the mills and were weighed on the dates shown below. DATE OF ARRIVAL. DATE WEIGHED. B/C arrived 191 and were weighed 191 weight B/C arrived 191 and were weighed 191 weight B/C arrived 191. and were weighed 191 weight B/C arrived 191...... and were weighed 191 weight B/C arrived 191 and were weighed 191 weight By Note. Printed blank forms like above will be furnished by the New England or the Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association on request. CLAIMS— Loss IN Weight. 34. (Both.) Claims for loss in weight shall be made on the basis of each separate invoice. 35. (Both.) In case of excessive loss in weight, i. e., 5 pounds per bale, from the invoice weight, the cotton shall be held and the seller notified and given an opportunity to reweigh if he desires, but the purchaser shall not be required to hold the cotton for the purpose of reweighing for a longer period than 10 days. Nothing in this section, however, shall be construed to prohibit the seller from weighing a lot losing less than 5 pounds per bale if he so desires and if it is practicable. If the cotton is held in a heated warehouse proper allowance shall be made for extra shrinkage. 36. (Both.) If the seller desires to reweigh and the purchaser cannot furnish immediate access to the cotton, he shall be allowed 10 days to put the cotton in position for reweighing. If at the end of 10 days the purchaser is still unable to afford access to the cotton, he shall allow the seller 34 pound per bale for each day thereafter until the cotton is accessible for reweighing. 37. (Both.) On reweighed cotton there shall be an allowance of 34 pound per bale for sampling and 134 pounds for each band removed by the purchaser. COTTON, 51 38. (Both.) Claims for loss in weight shall be accompanied by the purchaser's detailed weight lists of each mark and by a certificate as follows: 39. (Both). Form of Weight Return. 191 This is to certify that B/C marked invoiced to were weighed promptly (within 48 hours) after arrival and before any samples or bands were removed from any of the bales by us; also that the individual weights of the bales as shown on the attached detailed weight list are the gross weights of each bale and that the scale on which they were weighed was last tested and certified by a Sealer of Weights and Measures on 191 By Note. Printed blank forms like above will be furnished on application to the New England or the Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association. 40. (Both.) If, on reweighing the reweights agree with the original receiving weights within 1 pound per bale (after due allowance is made for shrinkage, samples and bands, as per Sections 35 and 37), the claim shall be settled on the original receiving weights and the seller shall pay the cost of reweighing, and also the charge for handling. 41. (Both.) If their weights show a gain between 1 and 2 pounds per bale over the original receiving weights (after due allowance is made for shrinkage, samples and bands, as per Sections 35 and 37), the claim shall be settled on the reweights, the seller paying the cost of reweighing, the purchaser making no charge for handling. 42. (Both.) If the reweights show a gain of more than 2 pounds per bale over the original receiving weights (after due allowance is made for shrinkage, samples and bands, as per Sections 35 and 37), the claim shall be settled on the reweights, and the purchaser shall pay the cost of reweighing and shall make no charge for handling. 43. (Both.) The charge for handling on reweighed cotton shall be the amount of the actual cost to the purchaser of handling, but not exceeding 10 cents per bale. CLAIMS— Tare. 44. (Both.) The first 10 bales of each mark of 100 bales or less taken out of a car, or otherwise unloaded at destination, shall be tagged with a red tag and indicated by 52 COTTON, a cross on return of weights to the seller. If there are more than 100 bales in the mark, a number of bales equal to 10 per cent, of the mark shall be thus set aside, tagged and indicated. 45. (Both.) When opened, the bagging and ties on each of the bales so tagged shall be weighed, and a certificate shall be furnished the seller showing: {^a) the gross weight of each bale at the time of its receipt, {h) the number of ties on each bale, and {c) the weight of the bagging and ties on each bale. The certificate shall also state that the bales so listed were the first unloaded of the mark and that the bagging was dry when weighed. The average gross tare per bale determined in the above manner shall be taken as the average tare for the entire mark. 46. (Both.) Form of Tare Return. Tare Test on B/C, set aside 191 by Mills, being part of bales invoiced 191 by Tag Gross Number Weight Weight Gross Number Mark. Weight Bands Bands Bagging Tare, (optional). of Bale. (optional). (optional.). This is to certify that the above statement is correct and that the bales hereon listed were the first bales of this mark unloaded at the mill and that the bagging was dry when weighed. The scale on which they were weighed was last tested and certified by a Sealer of Weights and Measures on 191... Note. Printed blank forms like above will be furnished on application to the New England or the Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association. 47. (Both.) All returns for tare must be sworn to or signed by a sworn weigher. 48. (Both.) The allowance for tare shall be an average of 24 pounds per bale. The purchaser shall be reimbursed for all tare in excess of this average at the invoice value less cent per pound. COTTON, 53 49. (Both.) All claims for excess tare shall be presented within 20 days from the date on which the average gross tare is ascertained as above, but not later than 9 months from the date of the receipt of the cotton. 50. (Both.) Excess tare claims are entirely independent of claims for loss in weight. Gain in weight of the cotton itself may not be applied against a claim for excess tare. CLAIMS— Grade and Staple (Short*) 51. (Short.) Claims for grade or staple must be made as soon as possible, but not later than 30 days from the date of the receipt of the cotton. 52. (Short. ) When 95 per cent, of the cotton is received, if the balance of the shipment does not arrive within 30 days, claims for grade or staple may be made on the lot as a whole on the average of the cotton received. 53. (Short.) Claims for grade on any portion of a mark must be accompanied by samples of the entire mark. If such samples are not furnished, bales not exceeding 5 per cent of the entire mark shall pass if said bales are not more than one-half grade *'off. 54. (Short.) The seller must be notified immediately if the cotton shows ''off grade'' or ''off staple'' on inspection. Such notification shall not be delayed until the entire lot is received. 55. (Short.) Claims for allowance on difference in staple or grade of short staple cotton, except IVie-lJ/s inches, shall be settled according to the differences existing at the time of shipment, as provided in Section 9. 56. (Short.) Claims for allowances on differences on cotton sold as IVie-lH inches shall be settled (except in case replacement is required, as provided in Section 61) on the prevailing differences existing at the time of shipment, provided no more than 15 per cent, of the mark is off. 57. (Short.) If more than 15 per cent, of the mark is off grade or staple, the entire number of bales of such cotton shall be settled for by the seller on the differences existing at the time of the arrival of the cotton. 58. (Short.) The above terms for claims on grade or staple are not to apply to long staple cotton, vi{., 1% inches and longer; but terms for tare and weight shall apply to American long staple cotton, except Sea Island. CLAIMS— False, Mixed, Water-Packed. 59. (Both.) In case of false-packed, mixed-packed or 54 COTTON. water-packed bales, the purchaser shall use the portion of the bale that is right. 60. (Both.) The inferior portion is to be used, if possible, at an allowance; but if not, the purchaser shall return the inferior portion with tags and sworn statement, and be paid for the same at the invoice price of sale. REPLACEMENT. 61. (Both.) If cotton is rejected by the purchaser on account of its being a quality inferior to the terms of sale, and if a settlement is not made with the purchaser at an allowance, replacement shall be made of the same weight within 5%. 62. (Both.) Replacements must be shipped promptly, but in case of scarcity of the quality required the seller shall be allowed such additional time for replacement as he may show to be necessary, but in any event not over 30 days, except by agreement with purchaser. 63. (Both.) All actual expenses incurred by reason of the necessity of replacement shall be borne by the seller. ARBITRATION— Short Staple. 64. (Short. ) In cases where the seller and the purchaser cannot agree as to the grade or staple of short staple cotton, redrawn samples shall be submitted to the classers, and if their decision is not satisfactory to both parties, or in case any dispute still exists between them, the matter shall be referred to the Board of Appeal upon request of either party. 65. (Short.) No person interested in the cotton involved in the arbitration shall serve as classer. 66. (Short.) The purchaser shall pay the total cost per bale of the arbitration on the number of bales that are found to be equal to the contract, and the seller shall pay at the same rate on the number of bales found to be not equal to the contract. If a bale is off in grade and up in staple, the seller pays for what is off in grade and the buyer pays for stapling. 67. (Short.) In all cases of arbitration between a manufacturer and a member of the New England Cotton Buyers' Association or a member of the Fall River Cotton Buyers' Association a charge of 15 cents per bale shall be made for classing and 15 cents per bale for stapling. For non-members the charge shall be 20 cents for classing and 20 cents for stapling. 68. (Short.) In all cases of arbitration the names of the purchaser and seller shall not appear, nor shall the identifying COTTON, 55 marks of the cotton be known, but the cotton shall be submitted to arbitration under bale numbers or lot numbers, as, for example, ''Lot No. 6." INSURANCE. 69. (Both.) Unless otherwise specified on sale note, the purchaser shall cover all his cotton with transit insurance. 70. (Both.) All purchases from or via Atlantic ports shall be based on the ''rail and water'' insurance rates. 71. (Both.) All other purchases shall be based on the "all rail" insurance rates, except shipments by specified sailings from Gulf ports. 72. (Both.) The purchaser shall be reimbursed for any- extra insurance on shipments moving from or via Gulf ports, except when the cotton is sold specifically as sailing or shipment from such ports, in which case there shall be no claim upon the seller for difference in the insurance rate. BURNT OR LOST COTTON. 73. (Both.) In all cases where cotton is lost or destroyed in transit, the contract shall be annulled thereby to the extent of such loss or destruction. CLAIMS— Grade and Staple (Long.) 74. (Long.) Claims for grade and staple must be made within 15 days from the date of the receipt of the last portion of a shipment, but the seller must be notified immediately if the cotton shows "off grade" or "off staple" on inspection. Such notification shall not be delayed until the entire lot is received. 75. (Long.) Claims for allowances on differences on staple cotton sold as 13^ inches or longer shall be settled (except in case replacement is required as provided in Section 61) on the prevailing differences existing at the time of shipment, provided no more than 15% of the mark is off. 76. (Long.) If more than 15% of the mark is off grade or staple, the entire number of bales of such cotton shall be settled for by the seller on the differences existing at the time of the arrival of the cotton. ARBITRATION— Long Staple. 77. (Long.) In case of difference of opinion on cottons V/^ inches or longer staple sold on type, the purchaser and seller shall each choose an arbitrator. These two arbitrators shall agree on a third, and if these two cannot agree on a 56 COTTON. third arbitrator they shall each name an arbitrator and he shall be chosen by lot. 78. (Long.) The arbitrators shall each be paid 10 cents per bale. The entire cost of arbitration, including sampling and other expenses, shall be borne by the purchaser and seller. The purchaser shall pay the total cost per bale of the arbitration on the number of bales found equal to the contract and the seller shall pay at the same rate for the number of bales found not equal to the contract. If a bale is off in grade and up in staple, the seller pays for what is off in grade and the buyer pays for stapling. 79. (Long.) In case of any difference of opinion on long staple cotton sold on description, the purchaser and seller shall agree on a type as a standard of length and character before submitting the same for arbitration. The arbitration shall then be decided by three arbitrators as provided for in the case of long staple cotton sold on type. 80. (Both.' These revised terms shall take effect on all sales made on and after September 1, 1912. The form of contract sale note for staple gray goods shown on pages 57 to 60 inclusive was approved and adopted by The National Association of Cotton Manfacturers, and the American Cotton Manufacturers' Association in 1910. COTTON. 57 m Q O O O < O <1 GO o H O :z; < m o H o o fa o iz; o o o fa o o C/2 o O Eh ^ cd O M CQ ^ ^ ^ s Q fa o fa g bo m fa o 12: Q o 05 fa H o o 58 COTTON. Q 12; 13 o Pl, H w H O H Q < 5^ __i /-/^ 03 ^ > O o ^ o £ ^ 0) ft 0) o S .2^ o o o < Oh 12; O 0 T3 O S 03 ft > > o o (D Q) 03 03 p o o s < o o C oJ o be poo o m 12; O O O ;2; o o H ;2: o g S o 13 O o o ^ ft o 03 3 ^ .S ^ s 03 ^ W c C O 03 w -M 2 5 ^ ft o o > o _ O «fH ^ M 03 03 o c O ^2 g ^ . - § 03 J-i 03 Q IZ^ (D ft > Q ^ (D j-j CQ C .S CO O rrt ^ ft O C 43 S 03 CD ^ Q) <^ S ^ ft b 0) S H 03 ^ :3 ™ e, 03 ^ C« ^ tn ft 0) S - ^ ^ .Si " ^ C 03 CO > ft c« 'T3 CD 5 p3 +j o ?H O o 03 g ^ g cn ttH o J3 §.2 O o § 03 .22 ^ ^ § fi 8 ^ ^ ^ ii g o ^ g 2i ^ ft c S «^ o :2 s s I ^ HH ^ Eh 5^ ^ Eh 43 < o ft 03 :3 T3 c2 o COTTON. 59 Paragraph L— PASSING OF TITLE ON DELIVERY. Unless otherwise specified, the title to goods sold passes to the buyer (subject to the right of stoppage in transitu) : — a. Upon delivery F. 0. B. to carrier, consigned to buyer, and thereafter goods are at buyer's risk. h. Upon arrival of goods at destination and delivery to buyer of bill of lading or of goods, in the case of goods to be delivered F. 0. B. elsewhere than to carrier. c. Upon delivery of indorsed bill of lading or of goods, in the case of goods consigned to seller's order. d. Upon the separation of the goods and holding subject to buyer's order (the invoice to follow by due course of mail), in the case of goods to be held or if buyer fails to give shipping instructions. Paragraph II.— STORAGE AND INSURANCE. Goods invoiced and held subject to buyer's orders shall be at buyer's risk, but covered by fire insurance effected by sellers in reputable companies. Paragraph III.— REJECTIONS AND CLAIMS. The buyer cannot reject the goods for delay in delivery unless he notifies the seller within five business days from receipt of bill of lading, or of invoice if goods are to be held. When contract calls for delivery in instalments, the buyer cannot cancel the contract for any default in any one or more instalments not amounting to a substantial breach of contract, but may cancel or replace at seller's expense any delivery that is delayed. Buyer cannot reject goods for defects in quality or other like defaults (a) if he cuts or converts them, nor {h) unless he notifies seller within ninety days from receipt by him or at finishing works af goods not held, or within ninety days after date of invoice if goods are invoiced and held; nor [c) unless such defects amount to a substantial breach of contract. Loss of right to reject does not deprive the buyer of his right to claim damages, if any; but no recovery shall be had on any claim not made within one year from receipt of goods or from date of invoice if goods are held. ALLOWABLE VARIATIONS FROM CONTRACT SPECIFICATIONS. WIDTH. The width shall not vary anywhere by more than % of an inch below the stipulated width, nor more than 60 COTTON, % of an inch above. The width shall not be uniformly less than the stipulated width, but must, in a majority of places in each piece, be equal to, or greater than, the stipulated width. Goods shall be measured at right angles to the selvages when laid open on a flat, horizontal surface and smoothed out by hand, but not stretched. WARP COUNT. Except within four inches of each selvage, (where exclusive of the selvage, the count must approximate that stipulated) the number of warp threads per inch shall not vary anywhere by more than one thread per inch below the stipulated count, nor by more than two threads per inch above. The number of threads in each piece must equal the stipulated count multiplied by the stipulated width plus the extra threads used in the selvage. FILLING COUNT. The number of threads in the filling, or weft, shall not vary anywhere by more than three threads per inch below the stipulated count, nor by more than four above. In the case of sateens, when the count of filling exceeds the count of the warp, the allowance for variation above specified shall be increased by the same percentage that the filling count exceeds that of the warp count. In any case including sateens, the filling count per inch shall not run below the stipulated count throughout the piece, but must, in a majority of places in each piece, equal or be more than, the stipulated count. WEIGHT. In case of controversy regarding the weight of goods, decision shall be based on goods which have been exposed for twenty-four hours to normal atmospheric conditions approximating a temperature of 70 degrees F. and a humidity of 70 per cent. A cotton mill, whether an old one contemplating additions to its existing equipment or a new one starting to build a complete plant, should employ the services of a competent mill engineer. The question of proper material, situation for the plant itself and the relative proportions of machinery in the different departments is an intricate one, and a great deal of money can be saved or wasted in its solution. COTTON BALE SHEARS, 61 In the designing and manufacture of cotton machinery there are well-known specialists. The machinery field is too broad and complex for any one company to be able to turn out the best products of every class. Realizing this we have devoted our energies to a few special machines and feel confident that in our line we build the best. COTTON BALE SHEARS. When the cotton bale arrives at the mill its contents, after the ties that hold the bale together have been cut, are started on a continuous journey through the mill. We make Cotton Bale Shears that are specially designed for the purpose of cutting these ties. The use of a dull axe, or a hammer and chisel, for this purpose is dangerous owing to the liability of fire from the flying of a spark into the highly inflamable contents of a cotton bale. This practice has been in terms objected to by insurance companies. We have sold a large number of Shears, and they have given satisfaction. 62 PRE PARA TORY PRO CESSES. OPENING AND PICKING. One of the most important things to be considered in laying out the picker room is the care that must be taken to prevent fire. The action of the swiftly revolving beaters is very liable to make sparks should any metallic substance be fed in with the cotton. Hot bearings can also cause fires and should be guarded against. When a fire does start it is as essential to keep the machine feeding out from the beaters as it is to stop the cotton from going into the beaters. This obviously diminishes the amount of cotton burned and so reduces the heat of the fire and the resultant damage. The picking machinery is the heaviest used in the ordinary cotton mill; great care must be used in setting it up and seeing that it is properly leveled. All the revolving shafts should run freely and the beaters should be nicely balanced. It is essential that an even lap be produced. A good clean lap cannot be made with an over-crowded machine as there is neither time nor opportunity for dirt and leaf to separate from the fibre. Dirt should be removed from under the beaters with regularity, and cleanliness in this department should be vigorously enforced. The use of modern feeders in the picking room has contributed more towards a thorough opening and mixing of the fibre than any other single improvement. A number of the mills now open their bales in the storehouse, and by the use of air convey the cotton to the picker room where it is distributed to the various machines as the hoppers get empty. BELT HOLE GUARDS. 63 WOOD'S BELT HOLE GUARDS. We have furnished thousands of these belt hole guards originally patented by Mr. B. L. Wood. We now have a large variety of patterns and can meet the exact requirements in each individual mill. For Straight Belts. These belt hole guards have many advantages to recommend them to the mill owner. The rotary movement of the covers of the guards reduces the belt hole in size; for instance, a two inch cross belt requires a hole about four inches wide and six to ten inches in length. These guards reduce the opening to about three-quarters of an inch in width by about nine or ten inches in length, making a reduction in the area of the opening from thirty-two square inches to about six square inches. For Crossed Belts. 64 BELT HOLE GUARDS. One of the results of reducing this opening is that cotton, waste, yarn or any other articles likely to be on a mill floor have just that much less chance of passing down on to the machinery below. They also prevent heated air from passing from the lower to the upper room, and so simplify the problem of humidification in both places. As a preventive of fire damage these guards are endorsed and recommended by the Insurance Companies. If a fire should happen to occur near them, they prevent flames from passing either up or down. The floor of the room where the guards are used can be flooded to a depth of two inches before water will flow through the openings. In this way a small fire in an upper story of a mill, localized and put out with a moderate amount of water, would be limited- to fire damage. The practical elimination of water damage in such a case may easily amount to the saving of more than half the total loss suffered if the belt hole guards had not been used. In addition to the advantages of fire protection, and protection from the various articles passing through the belt holes to the lower floor, these guards have a distinct advantage in their effect upon the belt. They prevent the belt from twisting, keeping it true over the pulleys so saving power, and they also help to keep the belt square on the pulley and prevent the belt from running partly on the tight pulley and partly on the loose, as otherwise often happens. These guards are so designed that they do not need oiling, and after being installed require no attention. For Slanting Belts. OIL CANS. 65 GnXCHELVS IMPROVED THOMPSON OIL- CAN. We have manufactured oil-cans for over fifty years; during this period our product has been unrivalled for economy and durability. Since the expiration of the Thompson and Getchell patents the design of our can with its removable air chamber and vent tube has been copied by other manufacturers. Our quality of material, however, and in this way, the durability of our product has not been copied, and the oil-cans made by certain manufacturers are sold for less money than we pay for the raw stock of which our product is made. These cans get hard use in and around the machinery of a mill and a substantially made can is well worth its extra -cost. We urge that purchasers give consideration to length of service as well as design in oil-cans, and feel sure they will pay the original introducers of the Thompson can a price that will guarantee them a first class durable article. See that your Thompson oil-cans bear our name. II 66 CARDING, Our regular sizes are designated as follows: Large 334 in. high, 2% in. diam., holding 3 gills. Common 3 2^4 2 Small 2% 2% 1 Our standard length of tube is 3^4 inches; other lengths are made to order. The delivery holes in the tubes are made to correspond to wire gauge numbers, that is, a number 19 tube has a hole measuring number 19 gauge. Numbers 19, 20 and 21 are most frequently called for. CARDING. The organization of a modern card room consists of revolving flat cards, drawing frames, and coarse and fine roving frames. Railway heads and lap winders are still used to some extent; the increasing use of Egyptian and other long staple cottons has led to a greater use of combers. Cards are designed for certain speeds and production and should not be driven beyond their capacity; no machine in the mill is as sensitive to attempted over- production as a card. The clothing will be injured and the product damaged by such operation. As card clothing plays a most important part in the results gained on a carding machine, only the best grades should be used and the grinding should be carefully attended to. Plenty of time should be taken and the grinder should have only what he can do carefully and thoroughly. He should be urged first, to be sure of the quality of his work, making the quantity distinctly secondary to good work. Grinding once in two or three weeks keeps up the standard of the product and fully pays for the time and labor. Roving frames should be carefully set up and firmly in place. All the parts should be level and in line. The sharp edges of the steel rolls should be removed by rubbing the rolls lengthways with whiting and oil, or a piece of card clothing. All bearings should be properly oiled, being careful to leave no oil where it can damage the product. The machines should be run some time without work in them to limber up all the running parts; each spindle and flyer should CARDING, 67 have individual attention. If in this preliminary work-out any weak or damaged parts are discovered they should be at once replaced so that the machine will start producing without a weak place in it. Hot bearings damage the machine, are productive of fire, and should be watched for carefully. Attention to the covering of the top rolls will detect any uneven places and save trouble later. The general increase in the use of metallic rollers is in a large measure doing away with just this trouble. CARD CLOTHING. English Counts. Points per Square Foot. American No. of Wire. 60s 43,200 28 70s 50,400 30 80s 57,600 31 90s 64,800 32 100s 72,000 33 110s 79,200 34 120s 86,400 35 130s 93,600 36 68 CARDING. RULES FOR CARDERS. To determine the number of hanks or decimal parts ofJianks to the povndfor carding, drawing, stubbing, roving and yarn, according to a given number of yards reeled or measured: — Multiply the number of yards by 8| and divide by their weight in grains; the quotient will be the hanks or decimal parts of hanks required- One yard of No. 1 roving or yarn weighs 8^ grains. To ascertain what number of yarn will be produced from a given drawing or sliver: — Measure off a convenient number of yards of sliver, multiply this number by extent of drawing on roving and spinning heads, then multiply by 8| and divide by the weight in grains, which will give the number of yarn produced from the given sliver. Example: Take two yards of sliver weighing 20 grains, and suppose it is to be drawn 5 on roving and 10 on spinning. 2x5xl0x8i=833.3,-f-20=No. 41.6, the number of yarn. To determine what weight a given length of drawing, slubbing, roving or yarn should be to equal a given number of hanks or decimal parts of hanks: — Multiply the given number of yards in length by 8^ and divide by the number of hanks or decimal parts of hanks required ; the quotient will be the weight, in grains, of the given length of drawing, roving or yarn. To number the yarn produced from roving: — Reel or measure off a convenient number of yards of roving; multiply this number by extent of drawing on spinning heads. This product multiplied by 8§ and divided by the weight, will give the number of yarn which would be made from the roving. Example: Suppose 5 yards of roving weigh 20 grains, and the draught is 10. Then 5x10x8|=416.6,-t-20= 20.8, the number of the yarn. Given, the weight of lap from the picker, and draught and doublings from the card to the spinning frame: To find the weight at any given point and number of yarn that will be produced: — Example: Weight of lap, 9 oz.; single carding, draught, 100; railway head, draught, 4; doublings, 14; first drawing, draught, 4, doublings, 3; second drawing, draught, 4^, doublings, 3; slubbers, draught, 4; inter- mediates, doublings, 2, draught, 5^; fine frames, doublings, 2, draught, 6|; spinning frames, draught, 7^; allowance for flyings and strippings in carding, 12 per cent. ; allowance for take up by twist in slubbing, inter- mediate, fine and spinning frames, each, or about f in all; with the following result :— 9x437.5=3937.5 grains in 1 yard of lap. 3937.5-=-100=39.375 grains in 1 yard after leaving card, were there no loss. 39.375 X. 88=34.65 grains in 1 yard after deducting 12 per cent, for flyings and strippings. 34.65x14-^4=121.27 grains in 1 yard after leaving railway head. 121.27x3-r4=90.95 grains in 1 yard after leaving first drawing. 90.95 x 3-=-4|=60.63 grains in 1 yard after leaving second drawing. 60.63-4-4x1! X 12=187. 76 grains in 12 yards after leaving slubbers. 187.76x2-^-51X31=70.48 grains in 12 yards after leaving intermediates. 70.48x2^1 X§f =22.39 grains in 12 yards after leaving fine frames. 22.39-^7^ X if =3.081 grains in 12 yards after leaving spinning frames. 3.081x70=215.67 grains in 1 hank after leaving spinning frames. 700O-i-215.67=32.45 number of yarn. Rule: Multiply the weight in ounces of one yard of lap by 437.5 (grains In an avoirdupois ounce), to reduce to grains; divide by draught of card and multiply by to give weight with allowance for loss in carding; for each successive process, multiply by the doublings and divide by the draught, and on slubbing, intermediate, fine and spinning frames multiply CARDING. 69 by if to allow for increase in weight by twist; at slubbers multiply by 12 for a common number of yards to weigh; and at spinning frames by 70, to give weight per hank, and divide 7000 by the product to determine the number of yarn. Note. — Roving and yarn contract in twisting, and an allowance should be made for this in all computations for a twisted product. This allowance will vary with the number of the yarn and amount of twist put in. To find the weight of lap required to produce a given number o^ yaruy and also the weight at any given pointy the draught and doublings being known: — Example : Suppose the draught and doublings the same as in the preceding, and we wish to produce No. 32.45 yarn. 7000-^32.45=215.71 grains per hank. 215.71^70=3.081 grains per 12 yards. 3.081 xiiX 71=22.39 grains per 12 yards after leaving fine frames. 22.39X35X6|H-2=70.49 grains i)er 12 yards after leaving intermediates. 70.49X32X5|-7-2=187.78 grains per 12 yards after leaving slubbers. 187.78xMx4-7-12=60.63 grains per 1 yard after leaving second drawing. 60.63x4^-^-3=90.95 grains per 1 yard after leaving first drawing. 90.95x4-f-3=121.27 grains per 1 yard after leaving railway-head. 121.27x4-^14=34.65 grains per 1 yard after leaving card. 34.65X100X ^5^=3937. 5 grains per 1 yard of lap. 3937.5-=-437.5=9 ounces per 1 yard of lap. Rule : Divide 7000 by the number of yarn desired, and that quotient by 70 to give the weight of 12 yards; multiply by the draught of each machine and divide by the doublings ; for spinning, fine, intermediate and slubbing frames multiply by f ^ to allow for decrease in weight by taking out the twist; at second drawing divide by 12 to give the weight of one yard; multiply by at the card to allow for loss, and divide by 437-5 to give weight of lap required in ounces. The tables for numbering roving which follow have been extended and adapted for numbering from weights in tenths of grains. The twist in all cases is 1.20 times the square root of the number. 70 CARDING. TABLE FOR NUMBERING ROVING. 12 yds. weigh grains. H V rovin" 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank rovm^. 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank roving. 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank rovin^,. 12 yds. we'igh grains. Hank roving. 1. 100.00 9. 11.11 16. 6.25 23. 4.35 80. 3.33 .2 83.33 .1 10.99 .1 6.21 .1 4.33 .1 3.32 'a 71.43 .2 10.87 .2 6.17 .2 4.31 9 3.31 .6 62.50 .3 10.75 .3 6.13 .3 4.29 13 3.30 .8 55.56 .4 10.64 .4 6.10 .4 4.27 .4 3.29 2. 50.00 .5 10.53 .5 6.06 .5 4.26 .5 3.28 .2 45.45 .6 10.42 .6 6.02 .6 4.24 .6 3.27 .4 41.67 .7 10.31 .7 5.99 .7 4.22 .7 3.26 .6 38.46 .8 10.20 .8 5.95 .8 4.20 .8 3.25 .8 35.71 .9 10.10 .9 5.92 .9 4.18 .9 3.24 3. 33.33 10. 10.00 17. 5.88 24. 4.17 31. 3.23 .1 32.26 .1 9.90 .1 5.85 .1 4.15 .1 3.22 .2 31.25 •2 9.80 .2 5.81 .2 4.13 .2 3.21 .3 30.30 .8 9.71 .3 5.78 .3 4.12 .3 3.19 .4 29.41 .4 9.62 .4 5.75 .4 4.10 .4 3.18 .5 28.57 .5 9.52 .5 5.71 .5 4.08 .5 3.17 .6 27.78 .6 9.43 .6 5.68 .6 4.07 .6 3.16 .7 27.03 .7 9.35 .7 5.65 .7 4.05 .7 3.15 .8 26.32 .8 9.26 .8 5.62 .8 4.03 .8 3.14 .9 25.64 .9 9.17 .9 5.59 .9 4.02 .9 3.13 4. 25.00 11. 9.09 18. 5.56 25. 4.00 32. 3.12 .1 24.39 .1 9.01 .1 5.52 .1 3.98 .1 3.12 .2 23.81 .2 8.93 .2 5.49 .2 3.97 2 3.11 .3 23.26 .3 8.85 .8 5.46 .3 3.95 13 3.10 .4 22.73 .4 8.77 .4 5.43 .4 3.94 .4 3.09 .5 22.22 .5 8.70 .5 5.41 .5 3.92 .5 3.08 .6 2i.'74 .6 8.62 .6 5.38 .6 3.91 .6 3.07 . 4 21.28 .7 8.55 .7 5.35 ' .7 3.89 .7 3.06 .8 20.83 .8 8.47 .8 5.32 .8 3.88 .8 3.05 .9 20.41 .9 8.40 .9 5.29 .9 3.86 .9 3.04 5. 20.00 12. 8.33 19. 5.26 28. 3.85 33. 3.03 .1 19.61 .1 8.26 .1 5.24 .1 3.83 .1 3.02 .2 19.23 .2 8.20 .2 5.21 .2 3.82 9 3.01 .3 18.87 .3 8.13 .3 5.18 .3 3.80 ;§ 3.00 .4 18.52 .4 8.06 .4 5.15 .4 3.79 .4 2.99 .5 18.18 .5 8.00 .5 5.13 .5 3.77 .5 2.99 .6 17.86 .6 7.94 .6 5.10 .6 3.76 .6 2.98 .7 17.54 .7 7.87 .7 5.08 .7 3.75 .7 2.97 .8 17.24 .8 7.81 .8 5.05 .8 3.73 .8 2.96 .9 16.95 .9 7.75 .9 5.03 .9 3.72 .9 2.95 6. 16.67 13. 7.69 20. 5.00 27. 3.70 34. 2.94 .1 16.39 .1 7.63 .1 4.98 .1 3.69 .1 2.93 9 16.13 .2 7.58 .2 4.95 .2 3.68 .2 2.92 13 15.87 .8 7.52 .8 4.93 .3 3.66 .3 2.92 .4 15.62 .4 7.46 .4 4.90 .4 3.65 .4 2.91 .5 15.38 .5 7.41 .5 4.88 .5 3.64 .5 2.90 .6 15.15 .6 7.35 .6 4.85 .6 3.62 .6 2.89 .7 14.93 .7 7.80 .7 4.83 .7 3.61 .7 2.88 .8 14.71 .8 7.25 .8 4.81 .8 3.60 .8 2.87 .9 14.49 .9 7.19 .9 4.78 .9 3.58 .9 2.87 7. 14.29 14. 7.14 21. 4.76 28. 3.57 35. 2.86 .1 14.08 .1 7.09 .1 4.74 .1 3.56 .1 2.85 .2 13.89 .2 7.04 .2 4.72 .2 3.55 .2 2.84 13.70 .3 6.99 .3 4.69 .8 3.53 .3 2.83 .4 13.51 .4 6.94 .4 4.67 .4 3.52 .4 2.82 .5 13.33 .5 6.90 .5 4.65 .5 3.51 .5 2.82 .6 13.16 .6 6.85 .6 4.63 .6 3.50 .6 2.81 .7 12.99 .7 6.80 .7 4.61 .7 3.49 .7 2.80 .8 12.82 .8 6.76 .8 4.9? .8 3.47 .8 2.79 .9 19 fV5 i<5.00 Q Q .t7 4.57 Q .y O.-iO Q 2.79 8! 12.50 15. 6.67 22. 4.55 29. 3.45 36. 2!78 .1 12.35 .1 6.62 .1 4.52 .1 3.44 .1 2.77 .2 12.20 .2 6.58 .2 4.50 .2 3.42 .2 2.76 .3 12.05 .3 6.54 .8 4.48 .3 8.41 .3 2.76 .4 11.90 .4 6.49 .4 4.46 .4 3.40 .4 2.75 .0 11.76 .6 6.45 .5 4.44 .5 8.39 .5 2.74 .6 11.63 .6 6.41 .6 4.42 .6 3.38 .6 2.73 .7 11.49 .7 6.37 .7 4.41 .7 3..S7 .7 2.72 .8 11.36 .8 6.33 .8 4.39 .8 3.36 .8 2.72 .9 11.24 .9 6.29 .9 4.37 .9 3.34 .9 2.71 CARDING, 71 TABLE FOR NUMBERING ROVING. 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank roving. 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank roving. 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank roving. 12 yds. weigh grains. Hank roving. 12 yds- weigh grains. Hank roving. 37. 2.70 48. 2.08 66. 1.54 100 1.00 190 .63 .1 2.70 .2 2.07 .6 1.53 101 .99 192 .52 .2 2.69 .4 2.07 66. 1.52 102 .98 194 .52 .3 2.68 .6 2.06 .5 1.50 103 .97 196 .51 .4 2.67 .8 2.05 67. 1.49 104 .96 198 .61 .5 2.67 49. 2.04 .5 1.48 105 .96 200 .50 .6 2.66 .2 2.03 68. 1.47 106 .94 202 .50 .7 2.65 .4 2.02 .5 1.46 107 .93 204 .49 .8 2.65 .6 2.02 69. 1.45 108 .93 206 .49 .9 2.64 .8 2.01 .5 1.44 109 .92 208 .48 38. 2.63 50. 2.00 70. 1.43 110 .91 210 .48 .1 2.62 .2 1.99 .6 1.42 111 .90 212 .47 .2 2.62 .4 1.98 71. 1.41 112 .89 214 .47 .3 2.61 .6 1.98 .5 1.40 113 .88 216 .46 .4 2.60 .8 1.97 72. 1.39 114 .88 218 .46 .5 2.60 51. 1.96 .5 1.38 115 .87 220 .45 .6 2.59 .2 1.95 73. 1.37 116 .86 222 .46 .7 2.58 .4 1.95 .6 1.36 117 .85 224 .45 .8 2.58 .6 1.94 74. 1.35 118 .85 226 .44 .9 2.57 .8 1.93 .6 1.34 119 .84 228 .44 39. 2.56 52. 1.92 75. 1.33 120 .83 230 .43 .1 2.56 .2 1.92 .5 1.32 121 .88 235 .43 .2 2.55 .4 1.91 76. 1.32 122 .82 240 .42 .3 2.54 .6 1.90 .6 1.31 123 .81 246 .41 .4 2.54 .8 1.89 77. 1.30 124 .81 250 .40 .5 2.53 53. 1.89 .6 1.29 125 .80 256 .39 .6 2.53 .2 1.88 78. 1.28 126 .79 260 .38 .7 2.52 .4 1.87 .6 1.27 127 .79 265 .38 .8 2.51 .6 1.87 79. 1.27 128 .78 270 .37 .9 2.51 .8 1.86 .5 1.26 129 .78 276 .36 40. 2.50 64. 1.85 80. 1.25 130 .77 280 .86 .2 2.49 .2 1.86 .6 1.24 131 .76 286 .85 .4 2.48 .4 1.84 81. 1.23 132 .76 290 .84 .6 2.46 .6 1.83 .6 1.23 133 .76 296 .34 .8 2.46 .8 1.82 82. 1.22 134 .76 300 .83 41. 2.44 55. 1.82 .6 1.21 136 .74 306 .83 .2 2.43 .2 1.81 83. 1.20 136 .74 310 .32 .4 2.42 .4 1.81 .5 1.20 137 .73 316 .32 .6 2.40 .6 1.80 84. 1.19 138 .72 820 .81 .8 2.39 .8 1.79 •6 1.18 139 .72 330 .30 42. 2.38 56. 1.79 86. 1.18 140 .71 840 .29 .2 2.37 .2 1.78 .6 1.17 141 .71 850 .29 .4 2.36 .4 1.77 86. 1.16 142 .70 360 .28 .6 2.36 .6 1.77 .6 1.16 143 .70 370 .27 .8 2.34 .8 1.76 87. 1.15 144 .69 380 .26 43. 2.33 57. 1.76 .6 1.14 145 .69 390 .26 .2 2.31 .2 1.76 88. 1.14 146 .68 400 .25 .4 2.30 .4 1.74 .6 1.13 147 .68 410 .24 .6 2.29 .6 1.74 89. 1.12 148 .68 420 .24 .8 2.28 .8 1.73 .6 1.12 149 .67 480 .23 44. 2.27 58. 1.72 90. 1.11 150 .67 440 .28 .2 2.26 .2 1.72 .5 1.10 162 .66 460 .22 .4 2.25 .4 1.71 91. 1.10 164 .66 460 .22 .6 2.24 .6 1.71 .6 1.09 156 .64 470 .21 .8 2.23 .8 1.70 92. 1.09 158 .63 480 .21 46. 2.22 59. 1.69 .6 1.08 160 .62 490 .20 .2 2.21 .2 1.69 93. 1.08 162 .62 500 .20 .4 2.20 .4 1.68 .6 1.07 164 .61 525 .19 .6 2.19 .6 1.68 94. 1.06 166 .60 550 .18 Q .O 2 18 o .o i.Dl 1 06 168 .60 575 17 46. 2!l7 60. 1.67 95*. l!05 170 !59 600 ;i7 .2 2.16 .5 1.65 .5 1.06 172 .58 625 .16 .4 2.16 61. 1.64 96. 1.04 174 .57 650 .16 .6 2.15 .5 1.63 .6 1.04 176 .57 675 .16 .8 2.14 62. 1.61 97. 1.03 178 .66 700 .14 47. 2.13 .6 1.60 .5 1.03 180 .66 725 .14 .2 2.12 63. 1.59 98. 1.02 182 .66 775 .13 .4 2.11 .5 1.67 .5 1.02 184 .64 825 .12 .6 2.10 64. 1.66 99. 1.01 186 .54 900 .11 .8 2.09 .6 1.55 .5 1.01 188 .53 1000 .10 72 CARDING, TWIST OF ROVING. Hank rov- Square Twist, 1.2X Hank rov- Square Twist, 1.2 X Hank rov- Square Twist, 1.2X Hank rov- Square Twist, 1.2 X ing. root. sq. ing. root. eq. ing. root. sq. ing. root. eq. root. root. root. root. .10 .316 .38 .80 .894 1.07 2.20 1.483 1.78 4.32 2.078 2.49 .11 .332 .40 !82 !906 1.09 2.22 1.490 1.79 4^36 2.088 2.51 .12 .346 .41 .84 [917 1.10 2.25 1.500 liso 4.40 2.098 2.52 .13 .361 [43 .86 .927 1.11 2^28 1.510 1.81 4.44 2.107 2*53 .14 !374 I45 *88 !938 l!l3 2^31 1.520 1^82 4^48 2^117 2^54 .15 .387 '46 [90 .949 l!l4 2.34 1^530 1^84 4^52 2! 126 2.55 .16 .400 .48 .92 .959 1*15 2.37 1*539 1.85 4^56 2J35 2.56 .17 .412 .49 .94 [970 1.16 2! 40 1^549 1^86 4!60 2.145 2.57 .18 .424 .51 .96 !980 l!l8 2^43 l!559 1.87 4.64 2.154 2.58 .19 .436 .52 .98 *990 1.19 2^46 1*568 1.88 4.68 2.163 2.60 .20 .447 .54 1.00 1*000 1.20 2.49 1*578 1.89 4.72 2.173 2.61 .21 .458 .55 1.02 1.010 1.21 2.52 1.587 1.90 4.76 2.182 2.62 .22 .469 .56 1.04 1.020 1.22 2.55 1.597 1.92 4.80 2.191 2.63 .23 .480 .58 1.06 1.030 1.24 2.58 1.606 1.93 4.84 2.200 2.64 .24 .490 .59 1.08 1.039 1.25 2.61 1.616 1.94 4.88 2.209 2.65 .25 .500 .60 1.10 1.049 1.26 2.64 1.625 1.95 4.92 2.218 2.66 .26 .510 .61 1.12 1.058 1.27 2.67 1.634 1.96 4.96 2.227 2.67 .27 .520 .62 1.14 1.068 1.28 2.70 1.643 1.97 5.00 2.236 2.68 .28 .529 .63 1.16 l!077 1.29 2.73 1^652 1.98 5.04 2.245 2.69 .29 .539 *65 1.18 1.086 l!30 2.76 1*661 1.99 5.08 2.254 2.70 .30 .548 .66 1.20 1.095 1^31 2.79 l!670 2.00 5.12 2.263 2.72 .31 .557 .67 1.22 1.105 1.33 2.82 1.679 2.01 5.16 2.272 2.73 .32 .566 .68 1.24 l]ll4 l]34 2.85 l!688 2.03 5.20 2.280 2.74 .33 .574 ..69 1.26 1.122 1.35 2.88 1.697 2.04 5.24 2.289 2.75 .34 .583 .70 1.28 l]l31 1.36 2.91 1.706 2.05 5.28 2.298 2.76 .35 .592 .71 1.30 1.140 1^37 2.94 1.715 2.06 5!32 2.307 2.77 .36 .600 .72 1.32 1.149 1.38 2.97 1.723 2.07 5.36 2.315 2.78 .37 .608 .73 1.34 1.158 1.39 3.00 1.732 2.08 5.40 2.324 2.79 .38 .616 .74 1.36 1.166 1.40 3.03 1.741 2.09 5.44 2.332 2.80 .39 .624 .75 1.38 1.175 1.41 3.06 1.749 2.10 5.48 2.341 2.81 .40 .632 .76 1.40 l!l83 l!42 3.09 1.758 2.11 5.52 2.349 2.82 .41 .640 .77 1.42 lll92 l!43 3.12 1.766 2.12 5.56 2.358 2.83 .42 .648 .78 1.44 1.2CK) 1^44 3.15 1.775 2.13 5.60 2.366 2.84 .43 .656 .79 1.46 1.208 1.45 3.18 1*783 2.14 5.64 2.375 2.85 .44 .663 .80 1.48 1.217 1.46 3.21 1.792 2.15 5.68 2.383 2.86 .45 .671 .80 1.50 1.225 1^47 3.24 1.800 2.16 5.72 2.392 2.87 .46 .678 .81 1.52 1.233 l!48 3.27 1^808 2.17 5.76 2.400 2.88 .47 .686 .82 1.54 1.241 1.49 3.30 1^817 2.18 5.80 2.408 2.89 .48 .693 .83 1.56 1.249 1.50 3.33 l!825 2.19 5.84 2.416 2.90 .49 .700 .84 1.58 1.257 1.51 3.36 l!833 2.20 5.88 2.425 2.91 .50 .707 .714 .85 1.60 1.265 1.52 3.39 l!841 2.21 5.92 2.433 2.92 .51 .86 1.62 1.273 1.53 3.42 1^849 2.22 5.96 2.441 2.93 .52 !721 !87 1^64 1*281 1^54 3^45 1^857 2^23 6.00 2.449 2.94 !53 .*728 !87 1^66 1^288 L55 3] 48 1^865 2.24 6.04 2.458 2.95 .54 .735 *88 1^68 1*296 1^56 3!51 1^873 2.25 6.08 2.466 2.96 .55 .742 !89 1.70 1I3O4 l!56 3! 54 l]881 2.26 6.12 2.474 2.97 .56 !748 .90 1.72 1.311 1^57 3.57 1^889 2.27 6.16 2.482 2.98 .57 !755 .91 1^74 1^319 1^58 3!60 l!897 2^28 6^20 2.490 2.99 .58 !762 !91 1.76 1.327 1^59 3.63 1^905 2.29 6.24 2.498 3.00 .59 .768 [92 1.78 1.334 1^60 3.66 1^913 2I3O 6.28 2.506 3.01 !60 !775 [93 1^80 1.342 1^61 3.69 1^921 2I3I 6.32 2.514 3.02 ]61 !781 [94 1^82 1.349 1^62 3^72 1.929 2^31 6.36 2.522 3.03 !62 *7g7 [94 1^84 1.356 1^63 3^75 1.936 2^32 6.40 2.530 3.04 .63 !794 [95 l!86 1*364 1^64 3^78 1^944 2.33 6.44 2.538 3.05 .64 .800 *96 1^88 1^371 1^65 3^81 1*959 2.34 6.48 2.546 3.05 !65 !806 *97 1^90 1*378 1^65 3^84 1^960 2I35 6^52 2.553 3.06 [(30 !812 *97 1^92 1^386 1^66 3*87 1^967 2^36 6.56 2.561 3.07 67 819 98 1.94 1.393 1^67 3 90 1 975 2 37 6.60 2.569 3.08 ^68 1825 .*99 l.*96 1^400 \M im l!982 2.38 6.64 2.577 3.09 .ooi 1 nn i.yo 1 Aon i.oy Q OA o.yo i.yyu /i.oy 6 68 2 585 3 10 .70 .837 1.00 2.00 1.414 1.70 3.99 1.997 2.40 6J2 21592 an .71 .843 1.01 2.02 1.421 1.71 4.02 2.005 2.41 6.76 2.600 3.12 .72 .849 1.02 2.04 1.428 1.71 4.05 2.012 2.41 6.80 2.608 3.13 .73 .854 1.02 2.06 1.435 1.72 4.08 2.020 2.42 6.84 2.615 3.14 .74 .860 1.03 2.08 1.442 1.73 4.11 2.027 2.43 6.88 2.623 3.15 .75 .866 1.04 2.10 1.449 1.74 4.14 2.035 2.44 6.92 2.631 3.16 .76 .872 1.05 2.12 1.456 1.75 4.17 2.042 2.45 6.96 2.638 3.17 .77 .877 1.05 2.14 1.463 1.76 4.20 2.049 2.46 7.00 2.646 3.17 .78 .883 1.06 2.16 1.470 1.76 4.23 2.057 2.47 7.04 2.653 3.18 .79 .889 1.07 2.18 1.476 1.77 4.26 2.064 2.48 7.08 2.661 3.19 CARDING, 73 TWIST OF ROVING. Hank TwiBt, Twiet, FT fc Twist. Hank Twifit, Square 1.2X rov- Square 1.2X rov- Square 1.2X Square 1.2X ing. root. eq. ing. root. 6q. ing. root. eq. ing. toot. eq. root. root. root. root. 7.10 2.665 3.20 10.62 3.2o9 0.91 14.84 3.852 4.62 19. < 6 A AAK 4.440 5.3o 7.15 2.674 3.21 10.68 3.268 3.92 14.91 3.861 4.63 19.84 1 IPil 4.404 5.36 7.20 2.683 3.22 10.74 3.277 3.93 14.98 3.870 4.64 1Q QO iy.y4 1 lAQ 4.400 5.36 7.25 2.693 3.23 10.80 3.286 QQl o.y4 1 Pi AP; 10. UO 3.879 4.66 OA AA 4U.UU 1 170 4.41 4 Pi Q7 O.oY 7.30 O 7AO 3.24 10.86 3.295 Q Q^i O.yo 1 Pi 1 o 10.14 Q QQQ ,1 A7 4.01 OA AQ 4U.U0 4.481 Pi QQ 0.00 7.35 2.711 3.25 10.92 3.305 3.97 15.19 3.897 4.68 20.16 1 IQA 4.4yu 5.39 7.40 2.720 3.26 10.98 3.314 Q OQ O.yo 1 Pi OA 10.40 3.906 4.69 20.24 1 IQQ 4.4yw 5.40 7.45 2.729 3.28 11.04 3.323 Q QQ o.yy 1 Pi QQ 10. OO 3.915 i 7 A 4. lU 20.32 1 fiAft 4.0U0 Pi /II 0.41 7.50 2.739 3.29 11 1 A ii.iU 3.332 A AA 4.UU 1 Pi lA 10. iU 3.924 A 71 4.1 1 20.40 1 P»17 4.01 1 K AO 0.44 7.55 2.748 3.30 11 1 A ii.lD 3.341 A A1 4.U1 1 Pi ,17 10. 4< Q QQQ O.VOO A 70 4. 1 4 OA AQ 4U.40 4.040 Pi AQ 0.4o 7.60 O 7P:7 /5. / 0< 3.31 1 1 00 Q QP^ o.oOU A AO 4.U4 1 Pi Pi 1 10.04 Q QIO o.y44 A 7Q 4. 1(3 OA PiA 4U. 00 4.534 Pi AA 0.44 7.65 2.766 3.32 11.28 8.359 \ AQ 4.Uo 15.61 3.951 4.74 20.64 1 KIQ 4.040 Pi AK 0.40 7.70 O 77fi 3.33 11.34 3.367 A A/1 4.U4 1 Pi AQ lO.DO 3.960 A 7Pi 4. lO OA 70 4U. 1 4 1 KPiO 4.004 Pi AR 0.4d 7.75 8.34 1 1 AC\ 11. 4U 3.376 A APi 4.U0 1 Pi 7Pi 10. i 0 Q QAO o.yoy A 7A 4. / 0 OA QA 4U.0U 4.561 Pi A17 0.4/ 7 QA O 7QQ 4. ^1 0.01 O.UU O QOQ Q QQ o.oy 1 1 7A 11. ^ 1^ 7 7 15.02 180 178 8600 8500 9.80 5.68 5.88 6.46 6.68 12 6 3 2>^ 1^ 7 6 16.45 172 185 9000 8700 9.40 4.54 4.70 5.17 5.40 13 u 3 2% 2 7 7 17.13 168 160 9000 8500 9.20 4.10 4.24 4.67 4.48 14 ^ 40.32 74 68 9400 9400 4.50 .29 .27 .30 .33 100 2^ IX IX 5 5X 42.50 70 68 9400 9400 4.20 .24 .24 .25 .27 94 SPINNING, Production Table of Ring Filling Yarn. Front Roll 1 Inch in Diameter. No. of Yarn. 1 Size of Spindle. | Gauge of frame. | 1 Diameter of 1 1 ring. 1 Length of 1 Traverse. | Twist per inch. Revolutions of front roll per minute. Revolutions of spindle per minute. Hanks per spindle per day of 10 hours. Pounds per spin- dle per week of 58 hours. Pounds per spin-l die per week of 1 60 hours. 1 Pounds per spin-l die per week of 1 66 hours. | 4 6.50 240 5000 10.00 14.40 14.88 16.37 5 7.27 280 5400 10.00 11.50 11.95 13.15 6 00 7.96 220 5600 9.85 9.58 9.86 10.84 7 9 8.60 214 5800 9.86 8.13 8.40 9.24 8 9.19 208 6000 9.75 7.07 7.31 8.04 9 C 9.75 202 6200 9.65 6.24 6.46 7.10 10 10.28 196 6400 9.60 5.56 5.76 6.33 11 . 10.78 190 6500 *9.50 5.00 5.18 5.70 12 11.26 184 6600 9.40 4.54 4.70 5.17 13 11.72 180 6700 9.35 4.15 4.29 4.72 14 3 12.16 176 6800 9.25 3.82 3.95 4.35 15 12.59 172 6900 9.15 3.53 3.65 4.02 16 13. 168 7000 9.05 3.28 3.39 3.73 17 13.40 166 7100 9.00 3.07 3.17 3.48 18 13.79 162 7200 8.80 2.84 2.93 3.22 19 14.17 158 7200 8.70 2.64 2.74 3.02 20 14.53 156 7300 8.60 2.49 2.58 2.83 21 14.89 154 7300 8.50 2.84 2.42 2.67 22 15.24 152 7400 8.40 2.21 2.29 2.52 23 15.59 150 7400 8.80 2.09 2.16 2.38 24 15.92 148 7600 8.20 1.98 2.05 2.26 26 s — 16.25 146 7600 8.10 1.87 1.94 2.13 26 % a 17.84 144 8000 7.95 1.77 1.83 2.01 27 18.19 142 8200 7.85 1.68 1.74 1.91 28 3 00 18.52 140 8200 7.75 1.60 1.66 1.83 oo 15 « CD 1Q ftA loo OOw 1 K9 1.04 1 K7 l.Ol 1 7^1 l./O 30 g 19.17 136 8300 7.55 1.45 1.51 1.66 31 u o 20.88 134 8800 7.45 1.39 1.44 1.58 32 «H 21.21 132 8800 7.85 1.33 1.38 1.52 33 ee 21.54 130 8900 7.25 1.27 1.31 1.44 34 21.87 128 8900 7.20 1.22 1.27 1.39 35 «H 22.19 126 8900 7.10 1.17 1.21 1.33 36 ;^ 22.50 124 8900 7.00 1.12 1.16 1.28 37 22.81 122 8800 6.90 1.08 1.11 1.23 38 23.12 120 8800 6.80 1.03 1.07 1.18 39 u Q 23.42 118 8800 6.70 .99 1.03 1.13 40 23.72 116 8800 6.65 .96 J.UU 1.10 41 24.01 114 8700 6.55 .92 .96 1.06 42 :^ 24.30 112 8700 6.40 .88 .91 1.00 43 24.59 110 8600 6.30 .84 .87 .96 44 24.87 108 8600 6.20 .81 .84 .93 45 25.16 106 8500 6.10 .78 .81 .89 46 25.43 104 8500 6. .75 .78 .86 47 25.71 104 8500 6. .74 .76 .84 48 25.98 102 8400 5.90 .71 .73 .81 49 26.25 102 8300 5.90 .69 .72 .79 60 26.52 100 8200 5.80 .67 .69 .76 55 27.00 96 8200 5.50 .58 .60 .66 60 27.00 92 8000 5.30 .51 .53 .58 65 27.00 88 7700 5.10 .45 .47 .52 70 27.19 84 7400 4.90 .40 .42 .47 75 28.15 82 7400 4.80 .37 .38 .42 80 29.07 80 7400 4.60 .33 .34 .37 86 29.96 78 7400 4.60 .31 .32 .35 90 31.00 76 7400 4.40 .28 .29 .32 95 31.68 74 7400 4.40 .26 .27 .30 100 32.50 72 7400 4.30 .24 .25 .28 SPINNING, 95 Comparative Production Table of Ring Filling Yarn. No. of Yarn. 1 Size of spindle. | Gauge of frame. 1 Diameter of 1 ring. 1 Length of 1 traverse. 1 Twist per inch. Revolutions ot front roll per minute. Revolutions of spindle per minute. Hanks per spin- dle per day of 10 hours. Pounds per spin- die per week of 58 hours. Pounds per spin- dle per week of 60 hours. Pounds per spin- dle per week of 66 hours. g 1 5/ I'A 1 7.96 220 240 5600 5600 9.85 9.53 lo!20 9.86 10.84 g 1 ^ 1^ 9.19 208 204 6000 5600 9.75 7.07 7.31 7^30 8.04 10 1 5/ 7 10.28 196 190 6400 6250 9.60 5 56 5*. 5.76 6.33 12 2^ IK 7 7 7 11.26 184 185 6600 6650 6800 9.40 4.54 4.60 4.70 5.17 4.75 14 2K 1^ A 72 1 7 •»-T5 7 6 12.16 176 160 170 6800 6400 9.25 3.82 3.75 3.95 4.35 4.07 16 A 72 "/a 6>^ .13 1 AQ 166 7000 6700 9.05 3.28 3.39 3.73 4*.08 18 2K *78 6K 13.79 162 7200 7600 8.80 2.84 2.93 2.90 3.22 20 2K 1 7 *r5 g 14.53 156 154 7300 7200 8.60 2.49 2.58 2.83 3.10 22 2^ 1 6 ■••IS 5>^ 15.24 1.52 172 7400 8330 8.40 2.21 2.90 2.29 2.52 24 2X IK 7 15.92 148 156 7600 7800 8.20 1.98 2.05 2.25 2.48 25 c4 6 2X I'A 1 7 6 6 16.25 146 148 156 7600 7650 8.10 1.87 1.91 1.94 2.10 2.13 26 2^ ■I 78 6 6 ^4 17.84 144 140 1 d.9 8000 7600 9100 7.95 1.77 1.83 1.80 2.01 2.00 34 2X 6 21.87 128 128 8900 9000 7.20 1.22 1.27 1.28 1.39 36 2^ 1^ 1 ?^ IH \J72, 64 22.50 124 132 8900 8800 9500 7.00 1.12 1.12 1.16 1.23 1.28 38 2X IX 1% 5A 6 23.12 120 122 8800 8800 6.80 1.03 1.07 1.18 1.35 40 2X 1^ 1% IX 54 6 5>^ 23.72 116 110 118 8800 8700 9500 6.65 .96 .94 1.00 1.10 1.10 42 2X IH V4 V4 5>^ 6 24.30 112 114 129 8700 9000 9000 6.40 .88 .80 1.07 .91 1.00 44 2X IK V4 24.87 108 103 8600 8200 6.20 .81 .81 .84 .93 48 2% V4 14 5>^ 25.98 102 103 8400 8200 5.90 .71 .74 .73 .81 50 2X 14 IX 5K 5A 26.52 100 8200 8400 5.80 .67 .74 .69 .76 60 2X 14 IX 5 27. 92 88 8000 7300 5.30 .61 .53 .58 70 2% 14 5 27.19 84 7400 7200 8000 4.90 .40 .34 .49 .42 .47 IX 5X 72 98 96 SPINNING, Table of Constants. Number of yarn. Revolutions of front roll recom- mended by our warp table. Constant for warp for 58 hours pro- duction in pounds. Constant for warp for 60 hours pro- duction in pounds. Constant for warp for 66 hours pro- duction in pounds. Revolutions of front roll recom- mended by our filling table. Constant for filling for 58 hours pro- duction in pounds. Constant for filling 1 for 60 hours pro- 1 duction in pounds. | Constant for filling 1 for 66 hours pro- 1 duction in pounds. | 204 OQQ .308 .ooo 9/1 Q .273 200 .0\j£i .312 236 0K(\ .ZOU .284 D 1 OA .305 .315 .316 220 .260 .268 .295 192 • OUo .318 .OOvJ Ol A 266 97F> .302 g 188 .Ol 1 .321 .OOO OAQ ZOo 272 OS1 .ZoL .309 9 184 .315 !326 .357 202 !278 .287 .316 10 180 1 QR 284 .293 Q9Q w 176 .oio .326 IQH lyu .290 .300 \J iTA JJ Hi XV \J r IN. GAUGE. 2% IN GAUGE. 23/ IN GAUGE. SPINDLES. FT. IN. FT. IN. FT. IN. 112 13 7 14 2 15 128 15 3 i 15 11 16 7 1 AA 144 16 11 ! 17 8 1 Q 0 160 18 7 19 5 20 3 20 3 21 2 99 1 1 192 21 11 22 11 23 11 208 i 23 7 24 8 25 9 224 ! 25 3 26 5 27 7 240 1 26 11 28 2 29 5 256 ' 28 7 29 11 31 3 272 , 30 3 31 8 33 '1 288 ! 31 11 33 5 34 11 304 i 33 7 35 2 36 9 320 35 3 36 11 38 7 336 36 11 38 8 40 5 NUMBER OF 3 IN. GAUGE. 33^ IN. GAUGE. 6Y1 IN. GAUGE. SPINDLES. FT. IN. FT. IN. FT, IN. 120 16 11 18 2 19 5 132 18 5 19 9 21 2 144 i 19 11 21 5 22 11 156 1 21 5 23 M 24 8 168 22 11 24 8 26 5 180 24 5 26 28 2 192 25 11 27 11 29 11 204 27 5 29 6M 31 8 216 28 11 31 2 33 5 228 30 5 32 35 2 240 31 11 34 5 36 11 252 33 5 36 38 8 264 34 11 37 8 40 5 276 36 5 39 42 2 The above lengths of frames over all are figured with tight and loose pulleys of V/2 inch face. If 3 inch face pulleys are figured, add 1 inch to the above lengths. 98 SPINNING. TABLE OF NUMBERS AND WEIGHTS OF SPINNING TRAVELERS. Weight of ten Travelers, in Grains. Number. Weight Grains. Number. Weight Grains, I Number. Weight Grains. Number. Weight Grains. 25-0 1 iK-0 8M 24 60 49 110 24-0 1-0 9 25 62 50 112 23-0 IM 1 10 26 64 51 114 22-0 IM 2 11 27 66 52 116 21-0 2 3 12 28 68 53 118 20-0 4 13 29 70 54 120 19-P 5 14 30 72 55 122 18-0 ^% 6 16 31 74 56 124 17-0 3 7 18 32 76 57 126 X\J~\J g 20 1 o Oo 128 15-0 9 23 34 80 59 130 14-0 3M 10 26 35 82 60 132 13-0 4 11 30 36 84 61 134 12-0 4M 12 33 37 86 62 136 11-0 4M 13 36 38 88 63 138 10-0 4% 14 39 39 90 64 140 9-0 5 15 42 40 92 65 142 8-0 16 44 41 94 66 144 7-0 17 46 42 96 67 146 5% 18 48 43 98 68 148 6-0 6 19 50 44 100 69 150 5-0 6M 20 52 45 102 70 152 4-0 7 21 54 46 104 71 154 3-0 7M 22 56 47 106 72 156 2-0 8 23 58 48 108 i ^73 158 HUMIDITY. 99 ARTIFICIAL HUMIDIFICATION. The humidification of a cotton mill is mainly artificial in character, and is closely associated with other conditions of the atmosphere which should be considered with relation to it. Artificial humidification is needed for several reasons. First, because of loss of weight in the cotton or cloth if the air is too dry and the natural amount of moisture not present. Second, because of trouble in the card room from electricity unless there is a suitable amount of moisture in the air. Third, because the moisture favorably affects the grip of the cotton fibers on each other, making less breakage of ends in the spinning and weaving rooms, and less loss of fiber in the form of invisible waste. Fourth, because of the freshening and cooling effect making the air more agreeable to the operatives. Considering the matter first from the standpoint of cheap product, it is possible that the principal advantage in artificial humidification is in getting more product from the operative because of the beneficial physical effect of a suitable atmosphere, and the lessening of labor required on the machinery. The human system is fed by oxygen in the air. A room may be well moistened, yet poorly ventilated. Proper systems of humidification cleanse and cool the air and absorb a certain amount of soluble gases. To replace the waste of oxygen new air must be supplied. If ventilation is not continuous by means of the methods in use, the rooms should be ventilated before running hours and the fresh air humidified before the help come in. The same percentage of humidity, or the **relative humidity,'' as it is known, does not necessarily produce the same physical result at all temperatures. A definite percentage of humidity at one temperature may make the conditions very disagreeable to the operative at another temperature. The English Factory Laws, for instance, allow a relative humidity of 88 per cent, at 60 degrees of the dry bulb, but only 64 per cent, at 100 degrees. The 75 per cent, which some accept as a general standard, is only authorized by the Cotton Factory Act, at a dry bulb temperature of less than 82 degrees. It is generally understood that the operatives prefer a temperature of between 70 degrees and 76 degrees of the dry bulb, but it is not always possible to regulate the temperature as desired in hot weather. The use of humidification to cool the air 100 HUMIDITY, in hot weather often produces a higher percentage of humidity than is recommended in any standard table. The cooling effect lessens as the humidity increases. It must be understood that proper humidification is impossible unless good thermometers are used, and unless the wet bulb is properly moistened, and used with clean wicking. The wet bulb thermometer should be at sufficient distance so that the moisture in the wick, or the water holder, will not affect the dry bulb. Wet and dry bulb thermometers give the conditions of the atmosphere in their immediate vicinity. In large rooms it is necessary to have several sets of apparatus. By having several sets, errors can be readily found by hanging them in pairs to note whether they register alike. A uniform standard of humidification assists the operation of such machinery as relies for its regularity of operation upon climatic conditions. Looms have a delicate adjustment of pick which is affected by moisture. Cards are affected by electricity when the air is dry. Spinning frames vary their band tension as the humidification changes, etc. While we give tables of relative and actual humidity, the average mill man merely needs to know how low his wet bulb thermometer should read by comparison with the dry bulb. We have tried to submit a table in simple, usable form for mill managers, without fractions or decimals. While our table is not like any other printed, it varies but slightly from those adopted by the leading makers of humidifying apparatus, the weave room standard being similar to the limits allowed by the English Cotton Factory Act used by the American Moistening Company, and the first two tables vary little from those published for use with the Cramer Automatic Regulator. HUMIDITY. 101 DRAPER TABLE OF RECOMMENDED HUMIDITY For Cotton Mill Conditions. WEAVE ROOM, WET BULB. 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 84 85 86 87 90 SPINNING ROOM. WET BULB. 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 67 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 81 82 83 84 85 87 We print this table on a stiff card for convenience of mill superintendents and overseers, and we will furnish same on application. RELATIVE AND ACTUAL HUMIDITY. In our catalogue of 1887, we printed tables of relative and actual humidity like those in use by the United States Signal Service and have reproduced them in later issues. These tables, however, are not prepared by use of the ordinary wet and dry bulb thermometers, and vary slightly from the English tables of James Glaisher, F. R. S. which are based on wet and dry bulb thermometers similar to those in ordinary use. The Glaisher tables are based on a barometric pressure of 29 inches, and since they are used by the leading introducers of air moistening machinery, we prefer to follow them, under the present conditions. In order to condense we only give such readings as are thought necessary for the conditions in Cotton Mills. 102 HUMIDITY, u o •*-> 1 o . u y 0 ^ i u 0 -M 0 bo fi .si Cubi Air. ding nome S ding nome 1 P u If s Cub Air. I 1 K Rea Then W Rea Then W It w *H O T -"^ S8 0 Co \% *o CO u 0 0 V c 0 I > I >• V V 0 5 > S > u 0) bo -»-» u bo (U Q Q Q Q Q Q 60 60 100 5.8 65 65 100 6.8 70 70 100 8. 75 75 100 9.4 59 94 5.4 64 94 6.4 69 94 7.5 74 94 8.9 58 88 5.1 63 88 6. 68 88 7.1 73 89 8.4 57 82 4.7 62 83 5.6 67 83 6 7 72 84 7^9 56 76 4.4 61 78 5.3 66 78 6.3 71 79 7.4 55 71 4.1 60 73 4.9 65 73 5.9 70 74 7] 54 66 3^8 59 68 4.6 64 69 5.5 69 70 6^6 53 62 3^6 58 63 4.3 63 65 5.2 Do 66 6.2 52 58 3.3 57 59 4. 62 61 4.9 67 62 5.8 51 54 3 1 56 55 3.8 61 57 4.6 66 58 5 5 50 50 2.9 55 51 3.5 60 53 4.3 65 55 5.2 49 46 2.7 54 48 3.3 59 50 4. 64 52 4.9 61 61 100 6. 66 66 100 7. 71 71 100 8.3 76 76 100 9.7 60 94 5.6 60 94 6.6 70 94 7.8 75 94 9.2 59 88 5.2 64 88 6.2 69 88 7.3 74 89 8.6 58 82 4.9 63 83 5.8 68 83 6 9 73 84 8.2 57 77 4.6 62 78 5.5 67 78 6.5 72 79 56 72 4^3 61 73 5.1 66 73 6.1 71 75 7.2 55 67 4. 60 68 4.8 65 69 5.7 70 71 6.8 54 62 3^7 59 64 4.5 64 65 5.4 Dy 67 6.4 53 58 3.5 58 60 4.2 63 61 5.1 68 63 6.1 52 54 3 2 57 56 3.9 62 57 4.7 67 59 5.7 51 50 3. 56 52 3.7 61 53 4.4 66 55 5.4 50 47 2.8 55 48 3.4 60 50 4.2 65 52 5.1 6» 62 100 6.2 67 67 100 7.3 73 72 100 8.5 77 77 100 10. 61 94 5.8 66 94 6.8 71 94 8. 76 94 9.5 60 88 5!4 65 88 6.4 70 89 7.6 75 89 8.9- 59 go 5.1 64 83 6 69 84 7 1 74 84 8.4 58 77 4^7 63 78 5.6 68 79 6.7 73 79 8. 57 72 4.4 62 73 5.3 67 74 6.3 72 75 7.5 56 67 4.1 61 68 5. 66 69 5.9 71 71 7.1 62 3^9 60 64 4.7 65 65 5.6 70 67 6.7 54 58 3^6 59 60 4,4 64 61 5.3 69 63 6.3 53 54 3^4 58 56 4.1 63 57 5. 68 59 5.9 52 50 3!l 57 52 3.8 62 54 4.7 67 56 5.6 51 47 2.9 56 49 3.6 61 51 4.4 66 53 5.3 63 63 100 6.4 68 68 100 7.5 73 73 100 8.8 78 78 100 10.3 62 94 6. 67 94 7.1 72 94 8.3 77 94 9.7 61 88 5^6 66 88 6.6 71 89 7.6 76 89 9.2 60 82 5.2 65 83 6 2 70 84 7 4 75 84 8.7 59 77 4^9 64 78 5.8 69 79 7.0 74 79 8.2 58 72 4^6 63 73 5.5 68 74 6.6 73 75 7.8 57 67 4^3 62 68 5.2 67 70 6.2 72 71 7.3 OD 63 4] A1 64 4.8 OD 66 5.8 CI 67 6.9 55 59 3.7 60 60 4.5 65 62 5.4 70 63 6.5 54 55 3 5 59 56 4.2 64 58 5.1 69 59 6 2 53 51 313 58 52 4. 63 54 4.8 68 56 5.'8 52 47 3. 57 49 3.7 62 51 4.5 67 53 5.5 64 64 100 6.6 69 69 100 7.8 74 74 100 9.1 79 79 100 10.6 63 62 94 88 6.2 5.8 68 67 94 88 7.3 6.9 73 72 94 89 8.6 8.1 78 77 95 90 10.1 9.5 61 89 0/5 5.4 66 83 6.5 71 7.6 76 C50 9. 60 77 5.1 65 78 6.'l 70 79 7^2 75 80 1 8.5 59 72 4.8 64 73 5.7 69 74 6.8 74 75 8. 58 67 4.5 63 68 5.3 68 70 6.4 73 71 7.6 57 63 4.2 62 64 5. 67 66 6. 72 67 7.2 56 59 3.9 61 60 4.7 66 62 5.6 71 63 6.8 55 55 3.6 60 56 4.4 65 1 58 5.3 70 59 6.4 54 51 3.4 59 ' 53 4.1 64 55 5. 69 56 6. 53 48 3.2 58 : 50 3.9 63 52 1 4.7 68 53 5.6 HUMIDITY, 103 rmometer. 1 u u h rmometer. 1 adintr ol Humidil a Cubic f Air. .5 o IS Humidil a Cubic f Air. bo| .si 'd s Humidil a Cubic f Air. c bi Humidil a Cubic f Air. o c o *^ o o c o *^ o O c o *H o o H 0) o 8 H V o § > I ft«H u -)-> bo 0) bo o > bo > -)-> > Q Q Q Q Q Q 80 80 100 11. 85 85 100 12.8 90 90 100 14.8 95 95 100 17.2 79 95 10.4 78 90 9.8 81 80 10.3 85 77 11.4 90 78 13.4 77 85 9.3 80 76 9.7 84 73 10.8 89 74 12.7 76 80 8.8 79 72 9.2 83 69 10.3 88 70 12.1 75 75 8.3 78 68 8.7 82 65 9.7 87 66 11.5 74 71 7.8 77 64 8.3 81 62 9.2 86 63 10.9 73 67 7.4 76 61 7.8 80 59 8.7 85 60 10.3 72 63 7.0 7K 58 7.4 79 56 8.3 84 57 9.8 71 59 6.6 74 55 7. 78 53 7.8 83 54 9.3 70 56 6.2 73 52 6.6 77 50 7.4 82 51 8.8 69 53 5.8 72 49 6.2 76 47 7.0 81 48 8.3 81 81 100 11.3 86 86 100 13.2 91 91 100 15.3 96 96 100 17.7 80 95 10.7 79 90 10.1 82 80 10.6 86 78 11.8 91 78 13.8 78 85 9.5 81 76 10.1 85 74 11.2 90 74 13.1 77 80 9.1 80 72 9.5 84 70 10.6 89 70 12.4 76 76 8.6 79 68 9. 83 66 10.1 88 66 11.8 75 72 8.1 78 64 8.5 82 62 9.5 87 63 11.2 74 68 7.6 77 61 8.1 81 59 9. 86 60 10.7 73 64 7.2 7A 58 7.6 80 56 8.5 85 57 10.1 72 60 6.8 75 55 7.2 79 53 8.1 84 54 9.6 71 56 6.4 74 52 6.8 78 50 7.7 83 52 9.1 70 53 6.0 73 49 6.4 77 47 7.2 82 49 8.6 83 82 100 11.7 87 87 100 13.6 93 92 100 15.7 97 97 100 18.2 81 95 11.1 80 90 10.5 83 81 11. 87 77 12.2 92 78 14.2 79 85 9.9 82 77 10.4 86 73 11.6 91 74 13.5 78 80 9.4 81 73 9.8 85 70 11. 90 70 12.8 77 76 8.9 80 69 9.3 84 66 10.4 89 67 12.2 76 72 8.4 79 65 8.8 83 62 9.9 88 64 11.6 75 68 7.9 78 61 8.3 82 59 9.3 87 60 11. 74 64 7.5 77 58 7.9 81 56 8.8 86 57 10.4 73 60 7.1 76 55 7.4 80 53 8.3 85 54 9 9 72 57 6.7 75 52 7. 79 50 7.9 84 52 9.4 71 54 6.3 74 49 6.6 78 47 7.5 83 49 8.9 83 83 82 100 95 12. 11.7 88 88 100 14. 93 93 100 16.2 98 98 100 18.7 81 90 10.8 84 81 11.4 88 78 12.6 93 78 14.6 80 85 10.2 83 77 10.8 87 74 11.9 92 74 13.9 79 80 9.7 82 73 10.2 86 70 11.3 91 70 13.2 78 76 9.1 81 69 9.6 85 66 10.7 90 67 12.6 72 8.6 80 65 9.1 04: 63 10.2 89 64 12. 76 68 8.2 79 61 8.6 83 60 9.6 88 61 11.4 75 64 7.7 78 58 8.1 82 57 9.1 87 58 10.8 74 60 7.3 77 55 7.7 81 54 8 7 86 55 10 2 73 57 6.9 76 52 7.3 80 51 8.2 85 52 9^7 72 54 6.5 75 49 6.9 79 48 7.8 84 49 9.2 84 84 83 100 95 12.4 11.7 89 89 100 14.4 94 94 100 16.7 99 99 100 19.3 82 90 11.1 85 81 11.7 89 78 13. 94 79 15.1 81 85 10.5 84 77 11.1 88 74 12.3 93 75 14.4 80 80 10. 83 73 10.5 87 70 11.7 92 71 13.7 79 76 9.4 82 69 10. 86 66 11.1 91 67 13. 78 72 8.9 81 65 9.4 85 63 10.5 90 64 12.3 77 68 8.5 80 61 8.9 84 60 10. 89 61 11.7 76 64 8. 79 58 8.4 83 57 9.5 88 58 11.1 75 60 7.5 78 55 8. 82 54 9. 87 55 10.5 74 57 7.1 77 52 7.5 81 51 8.5 86 52 10. 73 54 6.7 76 49 7.1 80 48 8. 85 49 9.5 104 SPINNING. BREAKING STRENGTH OF YARN. In 1886 we prepared a breaking strength table after testing samples from two hundred and twenty-five representative mills. We print it alongside our present table for comparison. In 1886 there were very few combers in use in this country, and a large proportion of the yarn was made from single roving with old-fashioned top flat cards, smaller rings and lower speeds than are now used. Some of these conditions favor the quality of the yarn, but to offset them we have a higher general skill in management, improved machinery and better knowledge of how to get good results from the machines. In American mills, the breaking strength is ascertained by use of a strength tester, operated by hand or power, which handles a skein made with 80 revolutions of a reel a yard and a half in circumference. As the skein is in the form of a loop, the machine really tests the strength of 160 strands of yarn. This number is arranged so that the result in pounds will read just ten times the result in ounces by testing single yarn strands with a single thread tester; for, if we take the result in ounces and divide by 16 to get the quotient in pounds, we arrive at the same figures as when dividing the record of the skein tester by 160 to get the single thread quotient. Breaking strength is usually taken by reeling skeins from at least four bobbins and averaging the results from all after breaking one or more skeins from each bobbin. In such a system it is evident that the average result produced by no means shows the variation in single yarns. This fact is emphasized when the same yarn is tested by a single thread tester. It must be remembered that the machine for testing the breaking strength of skeins cannot give the actual average strength of the yarn, for it is impossible to get the tension on all the 160 separate yarn sections equal. A few strands break first, bringing the whole strain on a lesser number. The error is fairly constant, so that the machine answers for comparative purposes. The hand driven tester is not suitable for accurate comparisons, for the operator cannot give a steady motion to the wheel under a continually increasing strain. We have seen the same yarn show wide comparative differences when tested on a hand breaker and a power breaker. Owing to SPINNING. 105 the steadier strain, the yarn breaks stronger with a power-driven tester; and it must be remembered that our table is made up from results so obtained. Ours is a Brown Bros, tester run at a speed of 190 revolutions per minute. We are glad at any time to test yarn for mills which have no power driven tester so that they may see how nearly their yarn comes to our table when tested under similar conditions. Those whose yarn does not break as well as our table, when tested with a hand tester, need not necessarily assume that their yarn is inferior. As the usable value of yarn does not consist in the strength of a combined number of threads but in the regularity of strength of single threads, a single-thread yarn tester is desirable. We are agents for a power driven machine which automatically makes 80 breaks of single threads drawn from six bobbins simultaneously. Each break is recorded on a chart and the weak places in the yarn are exposed. A single-thread tester gives higher results than a skein tester. We have found it to vary from 15 to 20 per cent. The variation in single yarns is naturally much greater than in skeins, since the breaking of many strands together necessarily trends toward uniformity. We have found yarn that broke in skeins from 46 to 54 pounds, show from 4 to 7 ounces on a single-thread tester, which is equivalent to 40 to 70 pounds on the skein. Skeins showing from 105 to 128 pounds on the skein tester, varied from 12 ounces to 20 ounces, or from 120 to 200 pounds on the single-thread tester. Yarn showing 152 to 208 pounds on skein tests, varied from 16 ounces to 23^^ ounces on single-thread test, or equivalent to 160 to 235 for skein test. Variations in strength of yarn are due, in part, to variations in size, but they do not necessarily follow the variations in size with uniformity. Yarn is made weak by lack of twist, and also made weak by excessive twist. Different bobbins from the same frame will vary on account of differences in rolls, rings, travelers, ring setting, etc. It is not safe to draw conclusions from single tests or single lots. Variations in size or number are important since a variation from standard may give the mill's customer less or more product than called for. Variation in yarn is evidence of improper selection of processes, or improper running of the machinery in the preparatory department. No one has definitely settled by comparative tests the best and most economical method of preparing strong, even yarn. There are still those who claim that a multiplicity of doublings and drawings weakens the yarn, and it is not proven 106 SPINNING. just where the doublings should be made. It is possible that we may some day find that a proper doubling and evening of the sliver at some particular stage of manufacture will allow less processes, or less doublings, in other stages. There is a general impression that yarn wound from a full bobbin is stronger than that wound off nearer the bare bobbin. We have gone into exhaustive tests to determine whether this theory is correct, and find that while there is no uniformity, the yarn first spun often breaks stronger while actually finer in number. In one test we tested all the yarn on four bobbins made from Middling cotton, single carding, twist 24.40, spun with 1% inch ring, 63^ inches traverse. There were 17 skeins of yarn on each bobbin, making 68 skeins tested in all. The yarn averaged in number 15.82 and the breaking strength averaged 109. The weakest skein broke 95 pounds and the strongest 125. The number of yarn varied from 14.93 to 17.33. The first 16 skeins averaged in number 15.55, breaking an average of 106. The last sixteen skeins averaged in number 16.03, breaking 113.6. To show the difference between yarn tested under different conditions of humidity, we took four bobbins of yarn made from Good Middling cotton grown in South Carolina, single carding, 28.45 twist, spun on 1% inch ring, 63^ inches traverse, dry bulb showed 71, wet bulb 66. The average breaking strength was 60 pounds per skein, while the average number of the yarn was 29. We then kept this yarn 24 hours in a dry kiln with a temperature of 120 degrees for that period. The average breaking strength was now 55 pounds, while the average number was 29.78. Next, we soaked the yarn five minutes under water, merely drying off the outside with a towel. It then showed 64 pounds breaking strength, average number 28.70. We next soaked the yarn 40 hours under water and it broke 66.50, average number of yarn 26.13. The variation in the yarn numbering came from the additional weight of the water absorbed. This would show the extremes of dryness and wetness to be about 10 per cent, below or above the standard. The warp yarn tested for the tables was mostly single carded on revolving flat cards, and averaged about Strict Middling in grade. The combed yarn tests were made from American yarn sent in, which averaged slightly under Good Middling in grade. The soft-twisted yarn was of various kinds and used for various purposes. In these tests the stronger twisted filling was eliminated. The average twist of the yarn tested was very close to 3.25 times the square root of the number. SPINNING. 107 The most surprising thing about the tests was the strength of the soft twisted yarn in the coarser numbers, this running at times higher than our old standard for warp. Owing to delay in arrival of yarn and in getting proper machinery for testing, the yarn tested probably averaged an aging of at least six months. It was kept in our weave room during this time under fairly uniform conditions of humidity. At the time of the tests the humidity in the weave room averaged quite closely to the humidity standard which we recommend for the spinning room. Certain mills made much more even yarn than others on the same numbers. It was noticed that the combed yarn varied considerably in number. There was not enough yarn supplied to make a comparative test of Combed Egyptian, Sea Island and American cotton. Sea Island and Fancy Georgia cottons naturally broke stronger than the ordinary American grades, and also better than the Egyptian grades. No attempt was made to classify according to length of staple. It must be remembered that these tables represent an average breaking strength, although it is natural that our samples should largely come from the mills that are making the better yarns. As the yarn numbers vary constantly, and as the twist in different classes of yarn is also fairly constant, the curve plotted from the breaking strengths should also be a constant curve. The purpose of testing the hundreds of sample yarns sent has been to find out by the actual results just what constant curve will most uniformly meet the actual conditions. The results given in the tables are taken from constant curves without giving the decimals, as the strength tester cannot be read to decimal results. Anyone wishing to make a very careful or scientific comparison of yarns should accurately compute the result to decimals, using the following rules. 108 SPINNING. STANDARD WARP YARN. Weigh the skein after breaking and divide 1000 by the weight to get number of yarn (or use tables in our book or the table printed on one sheet which we supply); then add this to 1900 and divide by the number. Example: Skein weighs 45.3 grains. 1000 divided by 45.3 gives 22.08 the number of the yarn. 1900+22.08= 1922.08-^22.08=87.05 which is the standard breaking weight for this number. If several skeins are broken the average weight can be used. For combed warp yarn the standard is obtained by multiplying the number by four, subtracting from 2600 and dividing the remainder by the number. For soft twisted yarn the standard is obtained by multiplying the number by 13, subtracting from 1900 and dividing the remainder by the number. Our tables do not give figures for carded warp or soft twist ^bove number 50. They can be easily figured if required. The + and — signs signify decimals. For instance 62.30 would be given as 62+ while 62.70 would be given as 63—. 31,51 would be given as 32— while 31.50 would be given as 31+ . SPINNING. 109 DRAPER TABLES OF BREAKING TYEIGHTS OF AMERICA:N' YARNS Spun from American Cotton. Averaged from Sample Skein Tests from Several Hundred American Mills. w be c3 u 1000 1 500 2 333.3 3 530 250 4 410 200 5 330 166.7 6 275 142.9 7 237.6 125 8 209 111.1 9 186.5 100 10 168.7 90.9 11 154.1 83.3 12 142 76.9 13 131.5 71.4 14 122.8 66.7 15 115.1 62.5 16 108.4 58.8 17 102.5 55.6 18 97.3 52.6 19 92.6 50 20 88.3 47.6 21 83.8 45.5 22 79.7 43.5 23 75.9 41.7 24 72.4 40 25 69.2 38.5 26 66.3 37 27 63.6 35.7 28 61.3 34.5 29 59.2 33.3 30 57.3 32.3 31 55.6 31.3 32 54 30.3 3:3 52.6 29.4 34 51.2 28.6 35 50 27.8 36 48.7 27 37 47.6 26.3 38 46.5 25.6 39 45.5 40 44.6 24.4 41 43.8 23.8 42 43 23.3 43 42.2 22.7 44 41.4 22.2 45 40.7 21.7 46 40 21.3 47 39.3 20.8 48 38.6 20.4 49 37.9 20 50 37.3 old NEW o 634+ 476— 381 318— 272+ 238— 212— 191 174— 159+ 147+ 137— 128— 120— 113— 107— 101 96 914- 87+ 84- 80+ 77 74+ 71+ 69- 67— 64+ 62+ 60+ 59— 57- 55+ 54— 52+ 51 50— 48+ 47— 46— 45— 44— 43— 42— 41— 41- 40— 39 NEW 863— 646 516 429+ 367+ 321 285— 256 232+ 213- 196 182— 169+ 158+ 149— 140+ 133— 126 120- 114+ 109+ 104+ 100 96 92+ 89— 83- 80- 77+ 75— 72+ 70-- 68— 66— 64— 63- 61 59+ 58— 56+ 55+ 54— 53— 51+ 50— 49— NEW 120 yards Weight in Grains. Number of Yarn. Breaking ^ Weight ^ of Warp M Yarn. 1Q A ly.D 51 36.6 19.2 53 36.1 620+ 18.9 53 35.5 462 18.5 54 34.9 367 18.2 55 34.4 304- 17 0 i< .y 56 33.8 258- 17.5 57 33.4 224- 17.2 58 32.8 198- 17 59 32.3 177 16.7 60 31.7 160— 16.4 61 31.3 145+ 16.1 62 30.8 133+ 15.9 63 80.4 123- 15.6 64 30 114- 10.4 65 29.6 106- 15.2 66 29.2 99- 14.9 67 28.8 93- 14.7 68 28.5 87 14.5 69 28.2 82 14.0 70 27.8 77- 14.1 71 27.4 73- I 13.9 72 27.1 70- 13.7 73 26.8 66+ 13.5 74 26.5 63 13.3 75 26.2 60+ 13.2 76 25.8 57+ 13 77 25.5 55- 12.8 78 25.3 53- 12.7 79 24.9 50- 12.5 86 24.6 48- 12.4 81 24.3 46- 12.2 82 24 45— 12.1 83 23.7 43— 11.9 84 23.4 41+ ]1.8 85 23.2 40- 11.6 86 22.8 38+ 11.5 87 22.6 37 11.4 88 22.4 36— 11.2 89 22.2 34H 11.1 90 22 33- 11 91 21.7 32- 10.9 92 21.5 31- 10.8 93 21.3 30- 10.6 94 21.2 29- 10.5 95 21 28- 10.4 96 20.7 27- 10.3 97 20.5 27- 10.2 98 20.4 26- 10.1 99 20.2 25 10 100 20 no SPINNING. RULES FOR SPINNERS. To find the draught of a spinning frame : — Write down the number of teeth in all the driving-wheels, and multiply them together. Then write down the number of teeth in all the wheels that are driven, and multiply them together in like manner. If there is any difference in the diameter of the rollers, multiply the least, or driver's product, by the diameter of the back roller; and the largest product, or that of the driven wheels, by the diameter of the front roller. Divide the product of the driven wheels by that of the drivers, and the quotient will be the draught of the machine. To change the draught-gear on a spinning-frame ivhen changing to a different numher of yarn and the draught and roving have both to he altered : — Multiply the number of yarn being spun, by the hank roving desired, and that product by the number of teeth in the change pinion being used; divide the product thus obtained by the number of yarn desired, multiplied by the hank roving being used. The quotient will show the change pinion required. To change the draught gear vjhen changing from one numher of yarn to anotJier without changing the roving : — Multiply the number of teeth in the change pinion in use by the number of yarn spun. This product divided by the number of yarn desired will give the change pinion required. To change the twist-gear ichen changing to a different numher of yarn : — Square the number of teeth in the present gear, and multiply by the number of yarn being spun. Divide this product by the number of the yarn desired; the square root of the quotient will show the proper number of teeth for the new gear. To find ichat per cent, yarn contracts in tv'isting : — Divide the number of the yarn by the product of the draught and hank roving, and subtract the quotient from 1, Example: Suppose No. 28.5 yarn is being spun from 4-hank SPINNING. Ill roving, with a draught of 7. 26. 7. 26 X 4=29. 04. 28. 5-f-29. 04= 0.98, which subtracted from 1.00 leaves .02, or two per cent. =the contraction in length. To find the loss of twist in spinning : — By the **loss of twist'' is meant the amount the actual twist is less than that found by computing from the speed of the spindle. Bule: Divide 1 by the circumference of the bobbin in inches. Example: Suppose a filling bobbin is 13^ inches in circumference at the barrel. l-f-1.5=0.67=loss there. If it is 3 inches in circumference at the outside the loss there=l-^3=0.33. Average loss from computed twist 0.50, or half a turn per inch. The best way to find the actual speed of spindles : — Make some mark on the end of the cylinder so an assistant can turn it by hand slowly just once around. Mark the heads of several bobbins, or mark the whorls of the spindles, so as to be able to count the average number of turns of the spindle to one turn of the cylinder. Then multiply this number by the revolutions per minute the cylinder makes, ascertained carefully with a good speed- counter; or, attach revolving-shaft of a speed-counter to tip of spindle with a rubber tube. The result obtained by either of these methods is nearer the actual speed of the spindle than the result obtained from computation in the usual way, because of the differences due to the size of the banding and the angle of the groove in the whorl. To find the length of yarn on a bobbin : — Multiply the circumference of the front roll in inches by the number of revolutions per minute, and this product by the number of minutes required to fill the bobbin; divide by 36 and deduct the contraction in twisting, and the result will be the number of yards on the bobbin. To determine the twist of a spinning frame : — Multiply the teeth in driven gears for a dividend; divide this by the teeth in cylinder gear; then multiply this by the ratio between the cylinder and whorl and then divide by 112 SPINNING, 3.1416 for a constant. This constant divided by the twist gear used will give the twist in one inch of yarn, thus : Ratio between Drivers. cyl. cyl. & whorl. 85 X 91=7735-^-30 = 257. 8 X 7. 60=1959. 28-f-3. 1416=623. 65 = constant. This divided by twist gear will give the twist in one inch of yarn, or divided by twist required will give the twist gear. To determine the size of a cord^ when yarn of several differeyit sizes have been used to make it : — Reduce each yarn to grains, add the grains together and divide 1000 by their sum; the result will be the size of cord. Thus: 12s, 16s & 18s twisted together. 12s reduced to grains equals 83.33 16s 62.50 18s 55.56 201.39 divided into 1000 equals 4.96 equals the size of the cord. One way to determine a constant for twist : — Spin together two rovings of the same hank, one white and one black; then count the turns of twist in one inch. This multiplied by teeth in the twist gear will give constant; this constant divided by twist required will give twist gear to use, or dividing by twist gear used will give twist in one inch |f yarn. Another way to find the draft on a spinning frame : — Multiply the driving gears together, and this product by 7 if the middle and back rolls are % inches in diameter, for a divisor; multiply all driven gears together, and that product by 8, if the front rolls are one inch in diameter, for a dividend; and the quotient will be the draft. If you want a constant number, multiply the teeth of the change gears that you use on these frames by the draft thus obtained, and the result is the constant number, thus: Back Front Draft of Stud Roll Roll Draft Frame Constant. (70X55X8) -^- (20X30X7) =7.333 X 30=220. This divided by draft required will give gear to use. SPINNING. 113 To determine the product of a spindle per week: — Divide the number of revolutions of the front roll per minute by 3, for a week of 60 hours; the quotient will be the number of hanks per week; to reduce to pounds, divide by the yarn number. For weeks of different hours the divisors are as follows : — 60 hours, divisor = 3. 58 hours, divisor = 3.1 56 hours, divisor = 3.21 55 hours, divisor = 3.27 54 hours, divisor = 3.33 50 hours, divisor = 3.6 The result by this rule makes allowance for loss in doffing, etc. To determine the ratio between the cylinder and whorl : — Divide the diameter of the cylinder plus the diameter of the band by the diameter of whorl plus the diameter of band, thus. Cylinder, 7 in. Dia. of band % The whorl is i%6 and band is inches, added together equals i%6 inches. Therefore, a cylinder 7 inches in diameter, running with a whorl inches in diameter will turn the spindle 7.6 times. Grains. Drachms. Ounces. Pounds. Ton. Grammes. Kilog. 57 7^ in. = - 8 15 ^ — = 7.6 16 Avoirdujjois TFeight. 27.34= 1 437.5 = 16 = 1 7,000.0 =256 = 16 = 1 2000 = 1 = 1.77184 = 28.34954 = 453.59265 = 907.18 114 SPINNING, Long Measure. Inches. Feet. Yards. Rods. Furlongs. Mile. Metres. 12 = 1 = .3048 36 = 3 = 1 = .9144 198 = 16.5 = 5.5 = 1 = 5.0291 7,920 = 660 = 220 = 40 = 1 = 201.1643 63,360 = 5,280 = 1,760 = 320 = 8 1 = 1,609.3145 DIMENSIONS OF CIRCLES. Diameter. Circum- ference. Area. Diameter. Circum- ference. Area. 1-64 .015625 .04909 .00019 3-4 .75 2.35619 .44179 1-32 .03125 .09817 .00077 25-32 .78125 2.45437 .47937 3-64 .046875 .14726 .00173 13-16 .8125 2.55254 .51849 1-16 .0625 .19635 .00307 27-32 .84375 2.65072 .55914 3-32 .09375 .29452 .00690 7-8 .875 2.74889 .60132 1-8 .125 .39270 .01227 29-32 .90625 2.84707 .64504 5-32 .15625 .49087 .01917 15-16 .9375 2.94524 .69029 3-16 .1875 .58905 .02761 31-32 .96875 3.04342 .73708 7-32 .21875 .68722 .03758 1 1. 3.14159 .78540 1-4 .25 .78540 .04909 1-16 1.0625 3.33794 .88664 9-32 .28125 .88357 .06213 1-8 1.125 3.53429 .99402 5-16 .3125 .98175 .07670 3-16 1.1875 3.73064 1.1075 11-32 34375 1.07992 .09281 1-4 1.25 3.92699 1.2272 3-8 .375 1.17810 .11045 5-16 1.3125 4.12334 1.3530 13-32 .40625 1.27627 .12962 3-8 1.375 4.31969 1.4849 7-16 .4375 1.37445 .15033 7-16 1.4375 4.51604 1.6230 15-32 .46875 1.47262 .17257 1-2 1.5 4.71239 1.7671 1-2 .5 1.57080 .19635 9-16 1.5625 4.90874 1.9175 17-32 .53125 1.66897 .22166 5-8 1.625 5.10509 2.0739 9-16 .5625 1.76715 .24850 11-16 1.6875 5.30144 2.2365 19-32 .59375 1.86532 .27688 3-4 1.75 5.49779 2.4053 5-8 .625 1.96350 .30680 13-16 1.8125 5.69414 2.5802 21-32 .65625 2.06167 .33824 7-8 1.875 5.89049 2.7612 11-16 .6875 2.15984 .37122 15-16 1.9375 6.08684 2.9483 23-32 .71875 2.25802 .40574 2 6.S8319 3.1416 SPINNING. 115 NUMBERING YARNS. Yarn is weighed by avoirdupois weight. Silk. The silk-worm forms the cocoon of two parallel filaments of silk; three to six cocoons are usually reeled off together, making a thread of raw silk containing six to twelve filaments. One authority states that 500 yards of five twin filaments weigh about 2.5 grains. The number of drachms (27.34 grains) that 1000 yards of this raw silk weighs is the number. Silk is sold in the United States by the number of yards in one ounce. Sewing silk is numbered irregularly by letters : Letter, 000 00 0 A B C D E EE F FF G Yards in one oz., 2000 1600 1300 1000 850 650 550 400 330 262 212 125 Letter A silk has 16,000 yards in a pound, and equals about a No. 60 cotton sewing thread in weight. Silk that cannot be reeled is carded, spun and numbered like cotton yarn, and is called spun silk. Linen and Jute. Barlow's History of "vYeaving, London (1878), gives the following table; 2^ yards= 1 thread or round of the linen reel. 300 = 120 =1 cut. 600 " = 240 " =2 ** = 1 heer. 1,800 " = 720 " =6 " = 3 ' ' =1 slip. 3,600 =1,440 " =12 " = 6 * ' =2 =lhank. 7,200 " =2,880 " =24 * =4 =2 =lhasp. 14,400 " =5,760 " =48 <( —24 ' =8 " =4 " =2 " = 1 spyndle. The number of cuts in one pound is the number of linen yarn. The number of yards of linen yarn that weigh 23.33 grains is the number of the yarn. The numbers by which linen sewing threads are sold represent three threads of the number twisted together, that is, No. 35 standard thread has three strands of No. 35 yarn in it. Table for numbering Linen Yarn by the weight in grains of 300 yards or i lea (or cut). rains. 1 umber fyarn. rains. 1 umber fyarn. rains. 1 umber fyarn. rains. 1 umber fyarn. rains. umber f yarn. rains. umber f yarn. O O O ^ o O 12; <=> O ^ o 100 70. 260 26.92 420 16.67 580 12.07 800 8.75 1500 4.67 110 63.64 270 25.93 430 16.28 590 11.86 825 8.48 1600 4.37 120 58.33 280 25. 440 15.91 600 11.67 850 8.24 1700 4.12 130 53.85 290 24.14 450 15.56 610 11.48 875 8. 1800 3.89 140 50. 300 23.33 460 15.22 620 11.29 900 7.78 1900 3.68 150 46.67 310 22.58 470 14.89 630 11.11 925 7.57 2000 3.50 160 43.75 320 21.87 480 14.58 640 10.94 950 7.37 2250 3.11 170 41.18 330 21.21 490 14.29 650 10.77 975 7.18 2500 2.80 180 38.89 340 20.59 500 14. 660 10.61 1000 7. 2750 2.55 190 36.84 350 20. 510 13.73 670 10.45 1050 6.67 3000 2.33 200 35. 360 19.44 520 13.46 680 10.29 1100 6.36 3250 2.15 210 33.33 370 18.92 530 13.21 690 10.14 1150 6.09 3500 2. 220 31.82 380 18.42 540 12.96 700 10. 1200 5.83 4000 1.75 230 30.43 390 17.95 550 12.73 725 9.66 1250 5.60 5000 1.40 240 29.17 400 17.50 560 12.50 750 9.33 1300 5.38 6000 1.17 250 28. 410 17.07 570 12.28 775 9.03 1400 5. 7000 1. 116 NUMBERING YARNS. Woollen. 1 yard=l thread or round of the woollen reel. 80 =1 knot. 300 =3| " =1 cut. 1,600 " =20 =5^ ♦* =1 run. 2,000 " =25 =6| " =1^ " =1 bier. The number of runs in one pound is the number of woollen yarn. The number of yards of woollen yarn that weigh 4.375 grains is the number of the yarn. Table for numbering Woollen Yarn by the weight in grains of twenty yards, or one fourth of a knot. OD a «0 a 00 CO a CO a OQ a CD oc a 0 s 1 a 3 2 a 3 •i 3 "3 u a 3 •3 u i o « o o O O Pi O 1 87.50 18 4.86 35 2.50 52 1.68 69 1.27 86 1.02 2 43.75 29.17 19 20 4.61 4.37 36 37 2.43 2.36 53 54 1.65 70 1.25 87 1.01 3 1.62 71 1.23 88 .99 4 21.87 21 4.17 38 2.30 55 1.59 72 1.22 89 .98 5 17.50 22 3.98 39 2.24 56 1.56 73 1.20 90 .97 6 14.58 23 3.80 40 2.19 57 1.54 74 1.18 91 .96 7 12.50 24 3.65 41 2.13 58 1.51 75 1.17 92 .95 8 10.94 25 3.50 42 2.08 59 1.48 76 1.15 93 .94 9 9.72 26 3.37 43 2.03 60 1.46 77 1.14 94 .93 10 8.75 27 3.24 44 1.99 61 1.43 78 1.12 95 .92 11 7.95 28 3.12 45 1.94 62 1.41 79 1.11 96 .91 12 7.29 29 3.02 46 1.90 63 1.38 80 1.09 97 .90 13 6.73 30 2.92 47 1.86 64 1.37 81 1.08 98 .89 14 6.25 31 2.82 48 1.82 65 1.35 82 1.07 99 .88 15 5.83 32 2.73 49 1.79 66 1.33 83 1.05 100 .87 16 6.47 33 2.65 50 1.75 67 1.31 84 1.04 17 5.15 34 2.57 51 1.72 68 1.29 85 1.03 The number of yarn of different sizes represents the proportionate size of No. 1 yarn, and to determine the size or number of a thread composed of strands of different numbers twisted together, it is only necessary to add together the proportionate sizes of the separate strands. A single example will illustrate : 3 run, 4 run, 5 run and 6 run twisted together will make yarn the size of Vs + H+V^+Vq of 1 run, or '^%o+ ^%o+^%o+^%o=^y6o of 1 run ; not quite so large as one run, but exactly 57-^-60=.95 run. Worsted. 1 yard, =1 thread or round of the worsted reel. 80 " =80 " =1 lea or knot. 560 " =560 " =7 " •* =lhank. The number of hanks in one pound is the number of worsted yarn. The number of a worsted yarn of a given length which equals in weight a cotton yarn of the same length, is equal to the cotton number multiplied by 1.5. No. 60 cotton No. 90 worsted. The number of yards of worsted yarn that weigh 12.5 grains is the number of the yarn. NUMBERING YARNS. 117 Table for numbering Worsted Yarn by the weight in graiivs of twenty yards, or one fourth of a knot. No. No. No. ains. No. .9 No. No. .s *s of 9 of "i of of of 1 of o Yarn. Yarn. Yarn. o Yarn. o Yarn. Yarn. 1 250. 19 13.16 37 6.76 55 4.55 73 3.42 91 2.75 2 125. 20 12.50 38 6.58 56 4.46 74 3.38 92 2.72 3 83.33 21 11.90 39 6.41 57 4.39 75 3.33 93 2.69 4 62.50 22 11.36 40 6.25 58 4.31 76 3.29 94 2.66 5 50. 23 10.87 41 6.10 59 4.24 77 3.25 95 2.63 41.67 24 10 42 42 5.95 60 4 17 78 3.21 96 2.60 7 35!71 25 lo! 43 5.81 61 4;io 79 3!l7 97 2.'58 8 31.25 26 9.62 44 5.68 62 4.03 80 3.12 98 2.55 9 27.78 27 9.26 45 5.56 63 3.97 81 3.09 99 2.52 10 25. 28 8.93 46 5.43 64 3.91 82 3.05 100 2.50 11 22.73 29 8.62 47 5.32 65 3.85 83 3.01 105 2.38 12 20.83 30 8.33 48 5.21 66 3.79 84 2.98 110 2.27 13 19.23 31 8.06 49 5.10 67 3.73 85 2.94 115 2.17 14 17.86 32 7.81 50 5. 68 3.68 86 2.91 120 2.08 15 16.67 33 7.58 51 4.90 69 3.62 87 2.87 125 2. 16 15.62 34 7.35 52 4.81 70 3.57 88 2.84 150 1.67 17 14.71 35 7.14 53 4.72 71 3.52 89 2.81 175 1.43 18 13.89 36 6.94 54 4.63 72 3.47 90 2.78 200 1.25 Cotton. \\ yards =1 thread or round of the cotton reel. 120 " =80 " =1 skein, ley or lea. 840 " =560 =7 8keins=l hank. The number of hanks in one pound, is the number of cotton yarn. The number of yards of cotton yarn that weigh 8.33 grains, is the number of the yarn. The numbers by which cotton sewing threads are sold represent three threads of the number twisted together, that is, No. 60 standard thread has three strands of No. 60 yarn in it. In a six-cord thread each of the three strands is made up of two threads twisted together. Six threads of No. 120 make six-cord No. 60. The French system of numbering is based on the Metric system. The metre=39.37 inches, and is the standard of length. The kilogram (2.2047 pounds) is the standard weight in numbering yarn, and the number of thousand metres in a kilogram is the number of the yarn. No. 28 yarn would be No. 47.42 in France. By the various standards, No. 1 yarn has the following numbers of yards in one pound : Cotton and spun silk 840 Linen 300 Woollen 1,600 Worsted 560 The following tables have been carefully computed, and are, we believe, correct. The tables for numbering cotton yarn by the weight of one skein are also printed separately for the use of spinners, and we will mail a copy to any overseer on request. 118 NUMBERING YARN Comparative Numbers of Yarn of different materials of the same weight per yard. Woollen. Worst. Linsn. KjOZ. Woollen. w orst. Linen. Silk. o 'Si 3 of rds. 1 Is OQ O "o u 3^ e« O M Si °° Rui to CO o o P >» Rui 1 fiOO p CO >H P 1 .525 1.5 2.8 52.5 71 37.275 106.5 198.8 3727.5 2 1.05 3. 5.6 105. 72 37^8 108. 201.6 3780. 3 1.575 4.5 8.4 157.5 73 38.325 109.5 204.4 3832.5 4 2.1 6. 11.2 210. 74 38185 111. 207.2 3885. 5 2.625 7.5 14. 262.5 75 39^375 112.5 210. 3937.5 6 3.15 9. 16.8 315. 76 39.9 114. 212.8 3990. 7 3.675 10.5 19.6 367.5 77 4o!425 115.5 215.6 4042.5 8 4.2 12. 22.4 420. 78 4o!95 117. 218.4 4095. 9 4.725 13.5 25.2 472.5 79 4:1 Alb 118.5 221.2 4147.5 10 5.25 15. 28. 525. 80 42! 120. 224. 4200. 11 5.775 16.5 30.8 577.5 81 42^525 121.5 226.8 4252.5 12 6.3 18. 33.6 630. 82 43.05 123. 229.6 4305. 13 6.825 19.5 36.4 682.5 83 43.575 124.5 232.4 4357.5 14 7.35 21. 39.2 735. 84 44^1 126. 235.2 4410. 15 7.875 22.5 42. 787.6 85 44.625 127.5 238. 4462.5 16 8.4 24. 44.8 840. 86 45.15 129. 240.8 4515. 17 8.925 25.5 47.6 892.5 87 45.675 130.5 243.6 4567.5 18 9.45 27. 50.4 945. 88 46.2 132. 246.4 4620. 19 9.975 28.5 53.2 997.5 89 46.725 133.5 249.2 4672.5 20 10.5 30. 56. 1050. 90 47.25 135. 252. 4725. 21 11.025 31.5 58.8 1102.5 91 47.775 136.5 254.8 4777.5 22 11.55 33. 61.6 1155. 92 48.3 138. 257.6 4830. 23 12.075 34.5 64.4 1207.5 93 48.825 139.5 260.4 4882.5 24 12.6 36. 67.2 1260. 94 49.35 141. 263.2 4935. 25 13.125 37.5 70. 1312.5 95 49.875 142.5 266. 4987.5 26 13.65 39. 72.8 1365. 96 50^4 144. 268.8 5040. 27 14.175 40.5 75.6 1417.5 97 5o!925 145.5 271.6 5092.5 28 14.7 42. 78.4 1470. 98 51.45 147. 274.4 5145. 29 15.225 43.5 81.2 1522.5 99 51.975 148.5 277.2 5197.5 30 15.75 45. 84. 1575. 100 52.5 150. 280. 5250. 31 16.275 46.5 86.8 1627.5 101 53.025 151.5 282.8 5302.5 32 16.8 48. 89.6 1680. 102 53.55 153. 285.6 5355. 33 17.325 49.5 92.4 1732.5 103 54.075 154.5 288.4 5407.5 34 17.85 51. 95.2 1785. 104 54.6 156. 291.2 5460. 35 18.375 52.5 98. 1837.5 105 55.125 157.5 294. 5512.5 36 18.9 54. 100.8 1890. 106 55.65 159. 296.8 5565. 37 19.425 55.5 103.6 1942.5 107 56.175 160.5 299.6 5617.5 38 19.95 57. 106.4 1995. 108 56.7 162. 302.4 5670. 39 20.475 58.5 109.2 2047.5 109 57.225 163.5 305.2 5722.5 40 21. 60. 112. 2100. 110 57.75 165. 308. 5775. 41 21.525 61.5 114.8 2152.5 111 58.275 166.5 310.8 5827.5 42 22.05 63. 117.6 2205. 112 58.8 168. 313.6 5880. 43 22.575 64.5 120.4 2257.5 113 59.325 169.5 316.4 5932.5 44 23.1 66. 123.2 2310. 114 59.85 171. 319.2 5985. 45 23.625 67.5 126. 2362.5 115 60.375 173.5 322. 6037.5 46 24.15 69. 128.8 2415. 116 60.9 174. 324.8 6090. 47 24.675 70.5 131.6 2467.5 117 61.425 175.5 327.6 6142.5 48 25.2 72. 134.4 2520. 118 6l!95 177. 330.4 6195. 49 25.725 73.5 137.2 2572.5 119 62.475 178.5 333.2 6247.5 50 26.25 75. 140. 2625. 120 63. 180. 336. 6300. 51 26.775 76.5 142.8 2677.5 121 631525 181.5 338.8 6352.5 52 27.3 78. 145.6 2730. 122 64.05 183. 341.6 6405. 53 27.825 79.5 148.4 2782.5 123 641575 184.5 344.4 6457.5 54 28.35 81. 151.2 2835. 124 65.1 186. 347.2 6510. 55 28!875 82.5 154. 2887.5 125 65!625 187.5 350. 6562.5 56 29.4 84. 156.8 2940. 126 66.15 189. 352.8 6615. 57 29.925 85.5 159.6 2992.5 127 66.675 190.5 355.6 6667.5 58 30.45 87. 162.4 3045. 128 67.2 192. 358.4 6720. 59 30.975 88.5 165.2 3097.5 129 67.725 193.5 361.2 6772.5 60 31.5 90. 168. 3150. 130 68.25 195. 364. 6825. 61 32.025 91.5 170.8 3202.5 131 68.775 196.5 366.8 6877.5 62 32.55 93. 173.6 3255. 132 69.3 198. 369.6 6930. 63 33.075 94.5 176.4 3307.5 133 69.825 199.5 372.4 6982.5 64 33.6 96. 179.2 3360. 134 70.35 201. 375.2 7035. 65 34.125 97.5 182. 3412.5 135 70.875 202.5 378. 7087.5 66 34.65 99. 184.8 3465. 136 71.4 204. 380.8 7140. 67 35.175 100.5 187.6 3517.5 137 71.925 205.5 383.6 7192.5 68 35.7 102. 190.4 3570. 138 72.45 207. 386.4 7245. 69 36.225 103.5 193.2 3622.5 139 72.975 208.5 389.2 7297.5 70 36.75 105. 196. 3675. 140 73.5 210. 392 7350. NUMBERING YARN 119 Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 120 yards or I skein. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. liiuycis. weigh gr&ins. £s um Der OI Yarn. weigh grains. riiimDer of Yarn. 120yds weigh grains. w umoer of Yarn 120yd3 weigh grains. umoer of Yarn. 1. 1000. 14. 71.43 21. 47.62 28. 35.71 35. 28.57 2. 500. .1 70.92 .1 47.39 .1 35.59 .1 28.49 3. 333.3 .2 70.42 .2 47.17 .2 35.46 .2 28.41 4. 250.0 .3 69.93 .3 46.95 .3 35.34 .3 28.33 5. 200.0 .4 69.44 ,4 46.73 .4 35.21 .4 28.25 5.5 181.8 ,5 68.97 .5 46.51 .5 35.09 .5 28.17 6. 166.7 .6 68.49 .6 46.30 .6 34.97 .6 28.09 6.5 153.8 .7 68.03 .7 46.08 .7 34.84 .7 28.01 7. 142.9 .8 67.57 .8 45.87 .8 34.72 .8 27.93 7.5 133.3 .9 67.11 .9 45.66 .9 34.60 .9 27.86 8. 125.0 15. 66.67 22. 45.45 29. 34.48 36. 27.78 .1 123.5 .1 66.23 .1 45.25 .1 34.36 .1 27.70 .2 122.0 .2 65.79 .2 45.05 .2 34.25 .2 27.62 .3 120.5 .3 65.36 .3 44.84 .3 34.13 .3 27.55 .4 119.0 .4 64.94 .4 44.64 .4 34.01 .4 27.47 .5 117.6 .5 64.52 .5 44.44 .5 33.90 .5 27.40 .6 116.3 .6 64.10 .6 44.25 .6 33.78 .6 27.32 .7 114.9 .7 63.69 .7 44.05 .7 33.67 .7 27.25 .8 113.6 .8 63.29 .8 43.86 .8 33.56 J8 27.17 .9 112.4 .9 62.89 .9 43.67 .9 33.44 .9 27.10 9. 111.1 16. 62.50 23. 43.48 30. 33.33 37. 27.03 .1 109.9 .1 62.11 .1 43.29 .1 33.22 .1 26.95 .2 108.7 •2 61.73 .2 43.10 .2 33.11 .2 26.88 .3 107.5 .3 61.35 .3 42.92 .3 33.00 .3 26.81 .4 106.4 .4 60.98 .4 42.74 .4 32.89 .4 26.74 .5 105.3 •5 60.61 .5 42.55 .5 32.79 .5 26.67 .6 104.2 .6 60.24 •6 42.37 .6 32.68 .6 26.60 .7 103.1 .7 59.88 .7 42.19 .7 32.57 .7 26.53 .8 102.0 .8 59.52 .8 42.02 .8 32*47 .8 26.46 .9 101.0 .9 59.17 .9 41.84 .9 32.36 .9 26.39 10. 100.0 17. 58.82 24. 41.67 31. 32.26 38. 26.32 .1 99.01 •1 58.48 .1 41.49 .1 32.16 .1 26.25 .2 98.04 .2 58.14 .2 41.32 .2 32.05 .2 26.18 .3 97.09 .3 57.80 .3 41.15 .3 31.95 .3 26.11 .4 96.15 .4 57.47 .4 40.98 .4 31.85 .4 26.04 .5 95.24 .5 57.14 .5 40.82 .5 31.75 .5 25.97 .6 94.34 .6 56.82 .6 40.65 .6 31.65 .6 25.91 .7 93.46 .7 56.50 .7 40.49 .7 31.55 .7 25.84 .8 92.59 .8 56.18 .8 40.32 .8 31.45 .8 25.77 .9 91.74 .9 55.87 .9 40.16 .9 31.35 .9 25.71 11. 90.91 18. 55.56 25. 40.00 32. 31.25 39. 25.64 .1 90.09 .1 55.25 .1 39.84 .1 31.15 .1 25.58 .2 89.29 .2 54.95 .2 39.68 .2 31.06 .2 25.51 .3 88.50 .3 54.64 .3 39.53 .3 30.96 .3 25.45 .4 87.72 .4 54.35 .4 39.37 .4 30.86 .4 25.38 .5 86.96 .5 54.05 .5 39.22 .5 30.77 .5 25.32 .6 86.21 .6 53.76 .6 39.06 .6 30.67 .6 25.25 .7 85.47 .7 53.48 .7 38.91 .7 30.58 .7 25.19 .8 84.75 .8 53.19 .8 38.76 .8 30.49 .8 25.13 .9 84.03 .9 52.91 .9 38.61 .9 30.40 .9 25.06 12. 83.33 19. 52.63 26. 38.46 33. 30.30 40. 25.00 .1 82.64 .1 52.36 .1 38.31 .1 30.21 .1 24.94 .2 81.97 .2 52.08 .2 38.17 .2 30.12 .2 24.88 .3 81.30 .3 51.81 .3 38.02 .3 30.03 .3 24.81 .4 80.65 .4 51.55 .4 37.88 .4 29.94 .4 24.75 .5 80.00 .5 51.28 .5 37.74 .5 29.85 .5 24.69 .6 79.37 .6 51.02 .6 37.59 .6 29.76 .6 24.63 .7 78.74 .7 50.76 .7 37.45 .7 29.67 .7 24.57 .8 78.12 .8 50.51 .8 37.31 .8 29.59 .8 24.51 .9 77.52 .9 50.25 .9 37.17 .9 29.50 .9 24.45 13. 76.92 50.00 27. 37.04 34. 29.41 41. 24.39 .1 76.34 .1 49.75 .1 36.90 .1 29.33 .1 24.33 .2 75.76 .2 49.50 .2 36.77 .2 29.24 .2 24.27 .3 75.19 .3 49.26 .3 36.63 .3 29.15 .3 24.21 .4 74.63 .4 49.02 .4 36.50 .4 29.07 .4 24.15 .5 74.07 .5 48.78 .5 36.36 .5 28.99 .5 24.10 .6 73.53 .6 48.54 .6 36.23 .6 28.90 .6 24.04 .7 72.99 .7 48.31 .7 36.10 .7 28.82 .7 23.98 .8 72.46 .8 48.08 .8 35.97 .8 28.74 .8 23.92 .9 71.94 .9 47.85 .9 35.84 .9 28.65 .9 23.87 120 NUMBERING YARN. Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 120 yards or I skein, 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh graius. 1 'dumber of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 42. 23.81 49. 20.41 56. 17.86 63. 15.87 70. 14.29 .1 23.75 .1 20.37 .1 17.83 .1 15.85 .1 14.27 .2 23.70 .2 20.33 .2 17.79 .2 15.83 .2 14.25 .3 23.64 .3 20.28 .3 17.76 .3 15.80 .3 14.22 .4 23.58 .4 20.24 .4 17.73 .4 15.77 .4 14.20 .5 23.53 .5 20.20 .5 17.70 .5 15.75 .5 14.18 .6 23.47 .6 20.16 .6 17.67 .6 15.72 .6 14.16 .7 23.42 .7 20.12 .7 17.64 .7 15.70 .7 14.14 .8 23.36 .8 20.08 .8 17.61 .8 15.67 .8 14.12 .9 23.31 .9 20.04 .9 17.57 .9 15.65 .9 14.10 43. 23.26 50. 20.00 57. 17.54 64. 15.62 71. 14.08 .1 23.20 .1 19.96 .1 17.51 .1 15.60 .1 14.06 .2 23.15 .2 19.92 .2 17.48 .2 15.58 .2 14.04 .3 23.09 .3 19.88 .3 17.45 .3 15.55 .3 14.03 .4 23.04 .4 19.84 .4 17.42 .4 15.53 .4 14.01 .5 22.99 .5 19.80 .5 17.39 .5 15.50 .5 13.99 .6 22.94 .6 19.76 .6 17.36 .6 15.48 .6 13.97 .7 22.88 .7 19.72 .7 17.33 .7 15.46 .7 13.95 .8 22.83 .8 19.69 .8 17.30 .8 15.43 .8 13.93 .9 22.78 .9 19.65 .9 17.27 .9 15.41 .9 13.91 44. 22.73 61. 19.61 58. 17.24 65. 15.38 72. 13.89 .1 22.68 .1 19.57 .1 17.21 .1 15.36 .1 13.87 .2 22.62 .2 19.53 .2 17.18 .2 15.34 .2 13.85 .3 22.57 .3 19.49 .3 ±7.15 .3 15.31 .3 13.83 .4 22.52 .4 19.46 .4 17.12 .4 15.29 .4 13.81 .5 22.47 .5 19.42 .5 17.09 .5 15.27 .5 13.79 .6 22.42 .6 19.38 .6 17.06 .6 15.24 .6 13.77 .7 22.37 .7 19.34 .7 17.04 .7 15.22 .7 13.76 .8 22.32 .8 19.31 .8 17.01 .8 15.20 .8 13.74 .9 22.27 .9 19.27 .9 16.98 .9 15.17 .9 13.72 45. 22.22 52. 19.23 59. 16.95 66. 15.15 73. 13.70 .1 22.17 .1 19.19 .1 16.92 .1 15.13 .1 13.68 .2 22.12 .2 19.16 .2 16.89 .2 15.11 .2 13.66 .3 22.08 .3 19.12 .3 16.86 .3 15.08 .3 13.64 .4 22.03 .4 19.08 .4 16.84 .4 15.06 .4 13.62 .5 21.98 .5 19.05 -5 16.81 .5 15.04 .5 13.61 .6 21.93 .6 19.01 .6 16.78 .6 15.02 .6 13.59 .7 21.88 .7 18.98 .7 16.75 .7 14.99 .7 13.57 .8 21.83 .8 18.94 .8 16.72 .8 14.97 .8 13.55 .9 21.79 .9 18.90 .9 16.69 .9 14.95 .9 13.53 46. 21.74 63. 18.87 60. 16.67 67. 14.93 74. 13.51 .1 21.69 .1 18.83 .1 16.64 .1 14.90 .1 13.50 .2 21.65 .2 18.80 .2 16.61 .2 14.88 .2 13.48 .3 21.60 .3 18.76 .3 16.58 .3 14.86 .3 13.46 .4 21.65 .4 18.73 .4 16.56 .4 14.84 .4 13.44 .5 21.51 .5 18.69 .5 16.53 .5 14.81 .5 13.42 .6 21.46 .6 18.66 .6 16.50 .6 14.79 .6 13.40 .7 21.41 .7 18.62 .7 16.47 .7 14.77 .7 13.39 .8 21.37 .8 18.59 .8 16.45 .8 14.75 .8 13.37 .9 21.32 .9 18.55 .9 16.42 .9 14.73 .9 13.35 47. 21.28 64. 18.52 61. 16.39 68. 14.71 75. 13.33 .1 21.23 .1 18.48 .1 16.37 .1 14.68 .1 13.32 .2 21.19 .2 18.45 .2 16.34 .2 14.66 .2 13.30 .3 21.14 .3 18.42 .3 16,31 .3 14.64 .3 13.28 .4 21.10 .4 18.38 .4 16.29 .4 14.62 .4 13.26 .5 21.05 .5 18.35 .5 16.26 .5 14.60 .5 13.25 .6 21.01 .6 18.32 .6 16.23 .6 14.58 .6 13.23 .7 20.96 .7 18.28 .7 16.21 .7 14.56 .7 13.21 .8 20.92 .8 18.25 .8 16.19 .8 14.53 .8 13.19 .9 20.88 .9 18.21 .9 16.16 .9 14.51 .9 13.18 48. 20.83 55. 18.18 62. 16.13 69. 14.49 76. 13.16 .1 20.79 .1 18.15 .1 16.10 .1 14.47 .1 13.14 .2 20.75 .2 18.12 .2 16.08 .2 14.45 .2 13.12 .3 20.70 .3 18.08 .3 16.05 .3 14.43 .3 13.11 .4 20.66 .4 18.05 .4 16.03 .4 14.41 .4 13.09 .5 20.62 .5 18.02 .5 16.00 .5 14.39 .5 13.07 .6 20.57 .6 17.99 .6 15.97 .6 14.37 c6 13.05 .7 20.53 .7 17.95 .7 15.95 .7 14.35 .7 13.04 .8 20.49 .8 17.92 .8 15.92 .8 14.33 13.02 .9 20.45 .9 17.89 .9 15.90 .9 14.31 -\ 13.00 NUMBERING YARN. 121 Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 120 yards or I skein. 120ya3. weigli grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 77. 12.99 84. 11.90 91. 10.99 98. 10.20 105. 9.52 .1 12.97 .1 11.89 .1 10.98 .1 10.19 .1 9.51 .2 12.95 .2 11,88 .2 10.96 .2 10.18 .2 9.51 .3 12.94 .3 11.86 .3 10.95 .3 10.17 .3 9.50 A 12.92 .4 11.85 .4 10.94 .4 10.16 .4 9.49 .5 12.90 .5 11.83 .5 10.93 .5 10.15 .5 9.48 .6 12.89 .6 11.82 .6 10.92 .6 10.14 .6 9.47 .7 12.87 .7 11.81 .7 10.91 .7 10.13 .7 9.46 .8 12.85 .8 11.79 .8 10.89 .8 10.12 .8 9.45 .9 12.84 .9 11.78 .9 10.88 .9 10.11 .9 9.44 78. 12.82 85. 11.76 93. 10.87 99. 10.10 106. 9.43 .1 12.80 .1 11.75 .1 10.86 .1 10.09 .1 9.43 .2 12.79 .2 11.74 .2 10.85 .2 10.08 .2 9.42 .3 12.77 .3 11.72 .3 10.83 .3 10.07 .3 9.41 .4 12.76 .4 11.71 .4 10.82 .4 10.06 .4 9.40 .5 12.74 .5 11.70 .5 10.81 .5 10.05 .5 9.39 .6 12.72 .6 11.68 .6 10.80 .6 10.04 .6 9.38 .7 12.71 .7 11.67 .7 10.79 .7 10.03 .7 9.37 .8 12.69 .8 11.66 .8 10.78 .8 10.02 .8 9.36 .9 12.67 .9 11.64 .9 10.76 .9 10.01 .9 9.35 79. 12.66 86. 11.63 93. 10.75 100. 10.00 107. 9.35 .1 12.64 .1 11.61 .1 10.74 .1 9.99 .1 9.34 .2 12.63 .2 11.60 .2 10.73 .2 9.98 .2 9.33 .3 12.61 .3 11.59 .3 10.72 .3 9.97 .3 9.32 .4 12.59 .4 11.57 .4 10.71 .4 9.96 .4 9.31 .5 12.58 .5 11.56 .5 10.70 .5 9.95 .5 9.30 .6 12.56 .6 11.55 .6 10.68 .6 9.94 .6 9.29 .7 12.55 .7 11.53 .7 10.67 .7 9.93 .7 9.29 .8 12.53 .8 11.52 .8 10.66 .8 9.92 .8 9.2S .9' 12.52 .9 11.51 .9 10.65 .9 9.91 .9 9.27 80. 12.50 87. 11.49 94. 10.64 101. 9.90 108. 9.26 .1 12.48 .1 11.48 .1 10.63 .1 9.89 .1 9.25 .2 12.47 .2 11.47 .2 10.62 .2 9.88 .2 9.24 .3 12.45 .3 11.45 .3 10.60 .3 9.87 .3 9.23 .4 12.44 .4 11.44 .4 10.59 .4 9.86 .4 9.23 .5 12.42 .5 11.43 .5 10.58 .5 9.85 .5 9.22 .6 12.41 .6 11.42 .6 10.57 .6 9.84 .6 9.21 .7 12.39 .7 11.40 .7 10.56 .7 9.83 .7 9.20 .8 12.38 .8 11.39 .8 10.55 .8 9.82 .8 9.19 .9 12.36 .9 11.38 .9 10.54 .9 9.81 .9 9.18 81. 12.35 88. 11.36 95. 10.53 102. 9.80 109. 9.17 .1 12.33 .1 11.35 .1 10.52 .1 9.79 .2 9.16 .2 12.32 .2 11.34 .2 10.50 .2 9.78 .4 9.14 .3 12.30 .3 11.33 .3 10.49 .3 9.78 .6 9.12 .4 12.29 .4 11.31 .4 10.48 .4 9.77 .8 9.11 .5 12.27 .5 11.30 .5 10.47 .5 9.76 110. 9.09 .6 12.25 .6 11.29 .6 10.46 .6 9.75 .2 9.07 .7 12.24 .7 11.27 .7 10.45 .7 9.74 .4 9.06 .8 12.22 .8 11.26 .8 10.44 .8 9.73 .6 9.04 .9 12.21 .9 11.25 .9 10.43 .9 9.72 .8 9.03 83. 12.20 89. 11.24 96. 10.42 103. 9.71 111. 9.01 .1 12.18 .1 11.22 .1 10.41 .1 9.70 .2 8.99 .2 12.17 .2 11.21 .2 10.40 .2 9.69 .4 8.98 .3 12.15 .3 11.20 .3 10.38 .3 9.68 .6 8.96 .4 12.14 .4 11.19 .4 10.37 .4 9.67 .8 8.94 .5 12.12 .5 11.17 .5 10.36 .5 9.66 112. 8.93 .6 12.11 .6 11.16 .6 10.35 .6 9.65 .2 8.91 .7 12.09 .7 11.15 .7 10.34 .7 9.64 .4 8.90 .8 12.08 .8 11.14 .8 10.33 .8 9.63 .6 8.88 .9 12.06 .9 11.12 .9 10.32 .9 9.62 .8 8.87 83. 12.05 90. 11.11 97. 10.31 104. 9.62 113. 8.85 .1 12.03 .1 11.10 .1 10.30 .1 9.61 .2 8.83 .2 12.02 .2 11.09 .2 10.29 .2 9.60 .4 8.82 3 12.00 .3 11.07 .3 10.28 .3 9.59 .6 8.80 .4 11.99 .4 11.06 .4 10.27 .4 9.58 .8 8.79 .5 11.98 .5 11.05 .5 10.26 .5 9.57 114. 8.77 .6 11.96 .6 11.04 .6 10.25 .6 9.56 .2 8.76 .7 11.95 .7 11.03 .7 10.24 .7 9.55 .4 8.74 .8 11.93 .8 11.01 .8 10.22 .8 9.54 .6 8.73 .9 11.92 .9 11.00 .9 10.21 .9 9.53 .8 8.71 122 NUMBERING YARN, Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 120 yards or I skein. I20yds. weigh grains. Number of Yam. 120y(i8. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120y(is. weigh grains. Number of Yarn. 120yds. [Number weigh 1 of grains. Yarn 120yd8. weigh grains. Numbet of Yarn. 115. 8.70 140. 7.14 180. 5.56 350. 4.00 400. 2.50 .2 8.68 .5 7.12 181. 5.52 252. 3.97 405. 2.47 .4 8.67 141. 7.09 182. 5.49 254. 3.94 410. 2.44 .6 8.65 .5 7.07 183. 5.46 256. 3.91 415. 2.41 .8 8.64 142. 7.04 184. 5.43 258. 3.88 420. 2.38 116. 8.62 .5 7.02 185. 5.41 260. 3.85 425. 2.35 .2 8.61 143.^ 6.99 186. 5.38 262. 3.82 430. 2.33 .4 8.59 .5 6.97 187. 5.35 264. 3.79 435. 2.30 .6 8.58 144.^ 6.94 188. 5.32 266. 3.76 440. 2.27 .8 8.56 .5 6.92 189. 5.29 268. 3.73 445. 2.25 117. 8.55 145. 6.90 190. 5.26 370. 3.70 450. 2.22 .2 8.53 .5 6.87 191. 5.24 272. 3.68 455. 2.20 .4 8.52 146. 6.85 192. 5.21 274. 3.65 460. 2.17 .6 8.50 .5 6.83 193. 5.18 276. 3.62 465. 2.15 .8 8.49 147. 6.80 194. 5.15 278. 3.60 470. 2.13 118. 8.47 .5 6.78 195. 5.13 280. 3.57 475. 2.11 .2 8.46 148. 6.76 196. 5.10 282. 3.55 480. 2.08 .4 8.45 .5 6.73 197. 5.08 284. 3.52 485. 2.06 .6 8.43 149. 6.71 198. 5.05 286. 3.50 490. 2.04 .8 8.42 .5 6.69 199. 5.03 288. 3.47 495. 2.02 119. 8.40 150. 6.67 200. 5.00 390. 3.45 600. 2.00 .2 8.39 .5 6.64 201. 4.98 292. 3.42 505. 1.98 .4 8.38 151. 6.62 202. 4.95 294. 3.40 510. 1.96 .6 8.36 .5 6.60 203. 4.93 296. 3.38 515. 1.94 .8 8.35 152. 6.58 204. 4.90 298. 3.36 520. 1.92 120. 8.33 .5 6.56 205. 4.88 300. 3.33 525. 1.90 .2 8.32 153. 6.54 206. 4.85 302. 3.31 530. 1.89 .4 8.31 .5 6.51 207. 4.83 304. 3.29 535. 1.87 .6 8.29 154. 6.49 208. 4.81 306. 3.27 540. d.85 .8 8.28 .5 6.47 209. 4.78 308. 3.25 545. 1.83 191. 8.26 155. 6.45 310. 4.76 310. 3.23 560. 1.82 .4 8.24 .5 6.43 211. 4.74 312. 3.21 555. 1.80 .6 8.22 156. 6.41 212. 4.72 314. 3.18 560. 1.79 .8 8.21 .5 6.39 213. 4.69 316. 3.17 565. 1.77 122. 8.20 157.^ 6.37 214. 4.67 318. 3.14 570. 1.75 .5 8.16 .5 6.35 215. 4.65 320. 3.12 575. 1.74 123. 8.13 158.^ 6.33 216. 4.63 322. 3.11 580. 1.72 .5 8.10 .5 6.31 217. 4.61 324. 3.09 585. 1.71 124. 8.06 159. 6.29 218. 4.59 326. 3.07 590. 1.69 .5 8.03 .5 6.27 219. 4.57 328. 3.05 595. 1.68 195. 8.00 160.^ 6.25 330. 4.55 330. 3.03 600. 1.67 .5 7.97 .5 6.23 221. 4.52 332. 3.01 610. 1.64 126. 7.94 161. 6.21 222. 4.50 334. 2.99 620. 1.61 .5 7.91 .5 6.19 223. 4.48 336. 2.98 630. 1.59 127. 7.87 162.^ 6.17 224. 4.46 338. 2.96 640. 1.56 .5 7.84 .5 6.15 225. 4.44 340. 2.94 650. 1.54 128. 7.81 163.^ 6.13 226. 4.42 342. 2.92 660. 1.52 .5 7.78 .5 6.12 227. 4.41 344. 2.91 670. 1.49 129. 7.75 164. 6.10 228. 4.39 346. 2.89 680. 1.47 .5 7.72 .5 6.08 229. 4.37 348. 2.87 690. 1.45 130. 7.69 165.^ 6.06 330. 4.35 350. 2.86 700. 1.43 .5 7.66 .5 6.04- 231. 4.33 352. 2.84 710. 1.41 131.^ 7.63 166. 6.02 232. 4.31 354. 2.82 720. 1.39 .5 7.60 .5 6.01 233. 4.29 356. 2.81 730. 1.37 132. 7.58 167. 5.99 234. 4.27 358. 2.79 740. 1.35 .5 7.55 .5 5.97 235. 4.26 360. 2.78 750. 1.33 133. 7.52 168. 5.95 236. 4.24 362. 2.76 760. 1.32 .5 7.49 .5 5.93 237. 4.22 364. 2.75 770. 1.30 134 7.46 169. 5.92 238. 4.20 366. 2.73 780. 1.28 .5 7.43 .5 5.90 239. 4.18 368. 2.72 790. 1.27 135. 7.41 170. 5.88 340. 4.17 370. 2.70 800. 1.25 .5 7.38 171. 5.85 241. 4.15 372. 2.69 820. 1.22 136.^ 7.35 172. 5.81 242. 4.13 374. 2.67 840. 1.19 .5 7.33 173. 5.78 243. 4.12 376. 2.66 860. 1.16 137.^ 7.30 174. 5.75 244. 4.10 378. 2.65 880. 1.14 .5 7.27 175. 5.71 245. 4.08 380. 2.63 900. 1.11 138. 7.25 176. 5.68 246. 4.07 382. 2.62 925. 1.08 .5 7.22 177. 5.65 247. 4.05 385. 2.60 950. 1.05 139.^ 7.19 178. 5.62 248. 4.03 390. 2.56 975. 1.03 .5 7.17 179. 5.59 249. 4.02 395. 2.53 1000. 1.00 T IV I ST TABLES. 123 TWIST TABLE, Showing the square root of the numbers or counts from 1 to 140 hanks in the pound, with the twist per inch for different kinds of yarn. Counts or Numbers. Square Root. Ordinary iwist. VV nitman s jjiXtra Twist. Mule Warp Twist. Mule £ ujing Twist. 1 1.0000 4.75 4.50 4.00 3.75 3.35 2 1.4142 6.72 6.36 5.66 5.30 4.60 3 1.7321 8.23 7.79 6.93 6.50 5.63 4 2.0000 9.50 9.00 8.00 7.50 6.50 5 2.2361 10.62 10.06 8.94 8.39 7.27 6 2.4495 11.64 11.02 9.80 9.19 7.96 7 2.6458 12.57 11.91 10.58 9.92 8.60 8 2.8284 13.44 12.73 11.31 10.61 9.19 9 3.0000 14.25 13.50 12.00 11.25 9.75 10 3.1623 15.02 14.23 12.65 11.86 10.28 11 3.3166 15.75 14.92 13.27 12.44 10.78 12 3.4641 16.45 15.59 13.86 12.99 11.26 13 3.6056 17.13 16.22 14.42 13.52 11.72 14 3.7417 17.77 16.84 14.97 14.03 12.16 15 3.8730 18.40 17.43 15.49 14.52 12.59 16 4.0000 19.00 18.00 16.00 15.00 13.00 17 4.1231 19.58 18.55 16.49 15.46 13.40 18 4.2426 20.15 19.09 16.97 15.91 13.79 19 4.3589 20.70 19.62 17.44 16.35 14.17 20 4.4721 21.24 20.12 17.89 16.77 14.53 21 4.5826 21.77 20.62 18.33 17.18 14.89 22 4.6904 22.28 21.11 18.76 17.59 15.24 23 4.7958 22.78 21.58 19.18 17.98 15.59 24 4.8990 23.27 22.05 19.60 18.37 15.92 25 5.0000 23.75 22.50 20.00 18.75 16.25 26 5.0990 24.22 22.95 20.40 19.12 16.57 27 5.1962 24.68 23.38 20.78 19.49 16.89 28 5.2915 25.13 23.81 21.17 19.84 17.20 29 5.3852 25.58 24.23 21.54 20.19 17.50 30 5.4772 26.02 24.65 21.91 20.54 17.80 31 5.5678 26.45 25.05 22.27 20.88 18.10 32 5.6569 26.87 25.46 22.63 21.21 18.38 33 5.7446 27.29 25.85 22.98 21.54 18.67 34 5.8310 27.70 26.24 23.32 21.87 18.95 35 5.9161 28.10 26.62 23.66 22.19 19.23 36 6.0000 28.50 27.00 24.00 22.50 19.50 37 6.0828 28.89 27.37 24.33 22.81 19.77 38 6.1644 29.28 27.74 24.66 23.12 20.03 39 6.2450 29.66 28.10 24.98 23.42 20.30 40 6.3246 30.04 28.46 25.30 23.72 20.55 41 6.4031 30.41 28.81 25.61 24.01 20.81 42 6.4807 30.78 29.16 25.92 24.30 21.06 43 6.5574 31.15 29.51 26.23 24.59 21.31 44 6.6332 31.51 29.85 26.53 24.87 21.56 45 6.7082 31.86 30.19 26.83 25.16 21.80 46 6.7823 32.22 30.52 27.13 25.43 22.04 47 6.8557 32.56 30.85 27.42 25.71 22.28 48 6.9282 32.91 31.18 27.71 25.98 22.52 49 7.0000 33.25 31.50 28.00 26.25 22.75 50 7.0711 33.59 31.82 28.28 26.52 22.98 51 7.1414 33.92 32.14 28.57 26.78 23.21 52 7.2111 34.25 32.45 28.85 27.04 23.44 53 7.2801 34.58 32.76 29.12 27.30 23.66 54 7.3485 34.91 33.07 29.39 27.56 23.88 55 7.4162 35.23 33.37 29.66 27.81 24.10 56 7.4833 35.55 33.67 29.93 28.06 24.32 57 7.5498 35.86 33.97 30.20 28.31 24.54 58 7.6158 36.17 34.27 30.46 28.56 24.75 59 7.6811 36.49 34 57 30.72 28.80 24.96 60 7.7460 36.79 34186 30.98 29.05 25117 61 7.8102 37.10 35.15 31.24 29.29 25.38 62 7.8740 37.40 35.43 31.50 29.53 25.59 63 7.9373 37.70 35.72 31.75 29.76 25.80 64 8.0000 38.00 36.00 32.00 30.00 26.00 65 8.0623 38.30 36.28 32.25 30.23 26.20 66 8.1240 38.59 36.56 32.50 30.47 26.40 67 8.1854 38.88 36.83 32.74 30.70 26.60 68 8.2462 39.17 37.11 32.98 30.92 26.80 69 8.3066 39.46 37.38 33.23 31.15 27.00 70 8.3666 39.74 37.65 33.47 31.37 27.19 124 TWIST TABLES. TWIST TABLE. Mule Filling Twifit. Counts or Numbers. Square Root. Ordinary Warp Twist. Whitman's Warp Twist. Extra Mule Warp Twist. Mule Warp Twist. 71 8.4261 40.02 37.92 33.70 31.60 27.38 72 8^4853 40.31 38^18 33*94 31^82 27I58 73 8^5440 40.58 38^45 34.18 32.04 27^77 74 8 ] 6023 40^86 38^71 34.41 32! 26 27^96 75 8^6603 4l'l4 38^97 34*64 32^48 28.15 76 8.' 7178 41^41 39.23 34^87 32^69 28!33 77 8.7750 41*68 39! 49 35.10 32^91 28^52 78 818318 41I95 39^74 35I33 33! 12 28^70 79 8.8882 42.22 4o!oo 33^33 28^89 80 8.9443 42.49 40.25 35! 78 33.54 29.07 81 9.0000 42.75 40.50 36.00 33^75 29^25 82 9.0554 43.01 40.75 36^22 33*96 29^43 83 9.1104 43.27 41.00 36^44 34.16 29.61 84 9] 1652 43^53 41^24 36^66 34.37 29.79 85 9/2195 43^79 41^49 36^88 34! 57 29^96 86 9^2736 44! 05 41.73 37*09 34^78 30! 14 87 9.3274 44^31 41.97 37.31 34.98 30^31 88 9^3808 44^56 42.21 37! 52 35! 18 30^49 89 9! 4.340 44.81 42.45 37*74 35^38 30^66 90 9.4868 45^06 42.69 37I95 35^58 30.83 91 9 [5394 45^31 42.93 38] 16 35^77 31.00 92 9^5917 45.56 43.16 38^37 35! 97 31.17 93 9.6437 45.81 43.40 38.57 36J6 31.34 94 9.6954 46.05 43.63 38.78 36.36 31.51 95 9.7468 46.30 43.86 38.99 36.55 31.68 96 9/7980 46.54 44.09 39.19 36.74 31.84 97 9.8489 46/78 44^32 39.40 36]93 32.01 98 9.8995 47.02 44.55 39!60 37^12 32.17 99 9.9499 47.26 44.77 39.80 37^31 32.34 100 10.0000 47.50 45.00 40.00 37I5O 32.50 101 10.0499 47.74 45^22 40.20 37^69 32.66 102 10.0995 47.97 45.45 40.40 37.87 32.82 103 10.1489 48^21 45.67 40.60 38.06 32.98 104 10.1980 48.44 45^89 40.79 38.24 33.14 105 10.2470 48.67 46^11 40.99 38.43 33.30 106 10.2956 48.90 46^33 41.18 38^61 33.46 107 10.3441 49.13 46.55 41.38 38.79 33.62 108 10.3973 49.36 46.77 41.57 38.97 33.77 109 10.4403 49.59 46.98 41.76 39.15 33.93 110 10.4881 49^82 47^20 41.95 39.33 34.09 111 10.5357 50! 04 47^41 42^14 39^51 34.24 112 10! 5830 50.27 47^62 42^33 39^69 34.39 113 10^6301 50.49 47.84 42I52 39.86 34.55 114 10! 6771 50.72 48.05 42.71 40.04 34^70 115 10^7238 50I94 48*26 42.90 40^21 34.85 116 10! 7703 5l!l6 48.47 43.08 40^39 35^00 117 lo!8167 51.38 48.67 43! 27 40^56 35.15 118 10*R69^^ 51.60 48.88 43.45 40I74 35.30 119 10.9087 51^82 49.09 43.63 40^91 35.45 120 10 Q^4t 52^03 49^30 43^82 4l!08 35^60 121 11 0()()0 52^25 49.50 44.00 41*25 35^75 122 11.0454 52.47 49.70 44^18 41.42 35^90 123 ■i- J. . \JV\JO 52^68 49.91 44! 36 41.59 36^04 124 11.1355 52^89 50.11 44.54 41*73 36^19 125 ll!l803 53^11 50.31 44^72 41^93 36^34 126 1L2250 53.32 50.51 44^90 42.09 36! 48 127 11^2694 53^53 50.71 45.08 42^26 36^63 128 11.3137 53.74 50 91 45.25 42 43 36 77 129 ll!3578 53^95 5L12 45!43 42!59 36!91 130 11.4018 54.16 51.31 45.61 42.76 37.06 131 11.4455 54.37 51.50 45.78 42.92 37.20 132 11.4891 54.57 51.70 45.96 43.08 37.34 las 11.5326 54.78 51.90 46.13 43.25 37.48 134 11.5758 54.99 52.09 46.30 43.41 37.62 135 11.6190 55.19 52.29 46.48 43.57 37.76 136 11.6619 55.39 52.48 46.65 43.73 37.90 137 11.7047 55.60 52.67 46.82 43.89 38.04 138 11.7473 55.80 52.86 47.99 44.05 38.18 139 11.7898 56.00 53.05 47.16 44.21 38.32 140 11.8322 56.20 53.24 47.33 44.37 38.45 TWIST TABLES. 125 TWO PLY. No. of No. of twisted oC[. root Square root No. of No. of twisted Square root 1 yarn to be 01 iiO. twisted multiplied by tcTbe of No. twisted multiplied by yarn. yarn. twist d. yarn. 4 5 6 twist'd. yarn. 5 6 1 c .O 7A71 2.83 3.54 4.24 76 38. 6.1644 30.82 36.99 o 1 4. 5. 6. 77 38!5 6!2049 31.02 37.23 Q 1 K 1 2247 4.90 6.12 7.35 78 39. 6.2450 31.22 37.47 A o 1 4142 5.66 7.07 8.49 79 39!5 6!2849 31.42 37.71 C O ^.o l!5811 6.32 7.91 9.49 80 40. 6!3246 31.62 37.95 O o o. 1.7321 6.93 8.66 10.39 81 40.5 6!3640 31.82 38.18 rt i o.O 1.8708 7.48 9.35 11.22 82 41. 6.4031 32.02 38.42 Q O 4^ 2! 8. 10. 12. 83 41.5 6.4420 32.21 38.65 O y 2 1213 8.49 10.61 12.73 84 42. 6.4807 32.40 38.88 10 o. 2 2361 8.94 11.18 13.42 85 42!5 6!5192 32.60 39.12 1 1 x± O.O 2!3452 9.38 11.73 14.07 86 43! 6!5574 32.79 39.34 JL^ 2.4495 9.80 12.25 14.70 87 43.5 6.5955 32.98 39.57 6.5 2.5495 10.20 12.75 15.30 88 44. 6.6332 33.17 39.80 14: 2.6458 10.58 13.23 15.87 89 44.5 6.6708 33.35 40.02 7.5 2.7386 10.95 13.69 16.43 90 45. 6.7082 33.54 40.25 16 s! 2!8284 11.31 14.14 16.97 91 45.5 6.7454 33.73 40.47 2!9155 11.66 14.58 17.49 92 46. 6.7823 33.91 40.69 18 9! 3! 12. 15. 18. 93 46.5 6.8191 34.10 40.91 9I5 12.33 15.41 18.49 94 47. 6.8557 34.28 41.13 10! 3.1623 12.65 15.81 18.97 95 47.5 6.8920 34.46 41.35 21 lois 3^2404 12.96 16.20 19.44 96 48. 6.9282 34.64 41.57 11! 3.3166 13.27 16.58 19.90 97 48.5 6.9642 34.82 41.79 11^5 3^3912 13.56 16.96 20.35 98 49! 7! 35. 42. 24: 12! 3*4(341 13.86 17.32 20.78 99 49!5 7!o356 35.18 42.21 25 12^5 Q*p;qp:f: 14.14 17.68 21.21 100 50! 7!o711 35.36 42.43 26 13! 14.42 18.03 21.63 101 5o!5 7!l063 35.53 42.64 97 13*5 3.6742 14.70 18.37 22.05 102 51! 7!l414 35.70 42.85 28 14! 3^74^7 14.97 18.71 22.45 103 5l!5 7.1763 35.88 43.06 29 14^5 3]gQ79 15.23 19.04 22.85 104 52! 7!2111 36.06 43.27 15! 3^3730 15.49 19.37 23.24 105 52!5 7*2457 36.23 43.47 31 15*5 3^9370 15.75 19.69 23.62 106 53. 7.2801 36.40 43.68 32 16. 4] 16.' 20. 24. 107 53.5 7!3144 36.57 43.89 33 16!5 4^0620 16.25 20.31 24.37 108 54! 7!3485 36.74 44.09 ^J. 17* 4^1231 16.49 20.62 24.74 109 54!5 7*3324 36.91 44.29 OO 17*5 4*^1333 16.73 20.92 25.10 110 55. 7!4162 37.08 44.50 OD is! 4^2426 16.97 21,21 25.46 111 55.5 7.4498 37.25 44.70 o / 4*3012 17.20 21.51 25.81 112 56. 7,4333 37.42 44.90 OO 19! 4^3539 17.44 21.79 26.15 113 56.5 7.5166 37.58 45.10 Ot7 19)5 4*4159 17.66 22.08 26.50 114 57! 7^5493 37.75 45.30 *U 20I 4.4721 17.89 22.36 26.83 115 57*5 7^5329 37.91 45.50 41 20^5 4^5277 18.11 22.64 27.17 116 53* 7!6158 38.08 45.69 42 21! 4^5326 18.33 22.91 27.50 117 53^5 7^(5435 38.24 45.89 43 21^5 4!6368 18.55 23.18 27.82 118 59! 7,QSH 38.41 46.09 44 22! 4^(5904 18.76 23.45 28.14 119 59^5 7,71S6 38.57 46.28 45 22^5 4^7434 18.97 23.72 28.46 120 60! 7!7460 38.73 46.48 46 23. 4!7958 19.18 23.98 28.77 121 6o!5 7!7782 38.89 46.67 47 23^5 4!8477 19.39 24.24 29.09 122 61! 7.8102 39.05 46.86 48 24! 4!8990 19.60 24.49 29.39 123 6l!5 7.8422 39.21 47.05 49 24^5 4!9497 19.80 24.75 29.70 124 62! 7!8740 39.37 47.24 50 25! 5! 20. 25. 30. 125 62!5 7.9057 39.53 47.43 51 25^5 5!0498 20.20 25.25 30.30 126 63! 7!9373 39.69 47.62 52 26*. 5!o990 20.40 25.50 30.59 127 63!5 7!9687 39.84 47.81 53 26!5 5^1473 20.59 25.74 30.89 128 64! 8. 40. 48. 54 27! 5*1962 20.78 25.98 31.18 129 64!5 8.0312 40.16 48.19 55 27.5 5^2440 20.98 26.22 31.46 130 65! Q*OR9^ 40.31 48.37 56 28! 5^2915 21.17 26.46 31.75 131 65^5 40.47 48.56 57 28 !5 5*3335 21.35 26.69 32.03 132 66! 8.1240 40.62 48.74 58 29! 5^3352 21.54 26.93 32.31 133 qq\5 3^1543 40.77 48.93 59 29!5 5^4314 21.73 27.16 32.59 134 67! 8.1854 40.93 49.11 60 3o! 5^4772 21.91 27.39 32.86 135 67!5 8.2158 41.08 49.30 61 3o!5 5*^5227 22.09 27.61 33.14 136 68! 3 2462 41.23 49.48 62 31! 5!5678 22.27 27.84 33.41 137 68!5 8.2765 41.38 49.66 63 3l!5 5!6125 22.45 28.06 33.67 138 69! ft'^Ofifi 41.53 49.84 64 32! 5*6569 22.63 28.28 33.94 139 69!5 8.3367 41.68 50.02 65 32!5 5.7009 22.80 28.50 34.21 140 70. 41.83 50.20 66 33* 5*744g 22.98 28.72 34.47 141 70.5 8.3964 41.98 50.38 67 33^5 5.7879 23.15 28.94 34.73 142 71 8 4261 42.13 50.56 68 34! 5!8310 23.32 29.15 34.99 143 7l!5 8!4558 42.28 50.73 69 34.5 5.8737 23.49 29.37 35.24 144 72. 8.4853 42.43 50.91 70 35. 5.9161 23.66 29.58 35.50 145 72.5 8.5147 42.57 51.09 71 35.5 5.9582 23.83 29.79 35.75 146 73. 8.5440 42.72 51.26 72 36. 6. 24. 30. 36. 147 73.5 8.5732 42.87 51.44 73 36.5 6.0415 24.17 30.21 36.25 148 74. 8.6023 43.01 51.61 74 37. 6.0828 24.33 30.41 36.50 149 74.5 8.6313 43.16 51.79 75 37.5 6.1237 24.49 30.62 36.74 150 75. 8.6603 43.30 51.96 126 TWIST TABLES. THREJE PI.Y. No. of No. of twisted Sq. root Square root No. of No, of twisted Sq. root Square root yarn to be twist'd. of No. twisted yarn. multiplied by yarn to be twist'd. of No. twisted yarn. multiplied by yarn. 4 5 6 yarn. 5 6 1 .33 .5774 2.31 2.89 3.46 76 25.33 5.0332 25.17 30.20 2 .67 .8165 3.27 4.08 4.90 77 25.67 5.0662 25.33 30.40 3 1. 1. 4. 5. 6. 78 26. 5.0990 25.50 30.59 4 1.33 1.1547 4.62 5.77 6.93 79 26.33 5.1316 25.66 30.79 5 1.67 1.2910 5.16 6.45 7.75 80 26.67 5.1640 25.82 30.98 6 2. 1.4142 5.66 7.07 8.49 81 27. 5.1962 25.98 31.18 7 2.33 1.5275 6.11 7.64 9.17 82 27.33 5.2281 26.14 31.37 8 2.67 1.6330 6.53 8.16 9.80 83 27.67 5.2599 26.30 31.56 9 3. 1.7321 6.93 8.66 10.39 84 28. 5.2915 26.46 31.75 10 3.33 1.8257 7.30 9.13 10.95 85 28.33 5.3229 26.61 31.94 11 3.67 1.9149 7.66 9.57 11.49 86 28.67 5.3541 26.77 32.12 12 4. 2. 8. 10. 12. 87 29. 5.3852 26.93 32.31 13 4.33 2.0817 8.33 10.41 12.49 88 29.33 5.4160 27.08 32.50 14 4.67 2.1602 8.64 10.80 12.96 89 29.67 5.4467 27.23 32.68 15 5. 2.2361 8.94 11.18 13.42 90 30. 5.4772 27.39 32.86 16 5.33 2.3094 9.24 11.55 13.86 91 30.33 5.5076 27.54 33.05 17 5.67 2.3805 9.52 11.90 14.28 92 30.67 5.5377 27.69 33.23 18 6. 2.4495 9.80 12.25 14.70 93 31. 5.5678 27.84 33.41 19 6.33 2.5166 10.07 12.58 15.10 94 31.33 5.5976 27.99 33.59 20 6.67 2.5820 10.33 12.91 15.49 95 31.67 5.6273 28.14 33.76 21 7. 2.6458 10.58 13.23 15.87 96 32. 5.6569 28.28 33.94 22 7.33 2.7080 10.83 13.54 16.25 97 32.33 5.6862 28.43 34.12 23 7.67 2.7689 11.08 13.84 16.61 . 98 32.67 5.7155 28.58 34.29 24 8. 2.8284 11.31 14.14 16.97 99 33. 5.7446 28.72 34.47 25 8.33 2.8868 11.55 14.43 17.32 100 33.33 5.7735 28.87 34.64 26 8.67 2.9439 11.76 14.72 17.66 101 33.67 5.8023 29.01 34.81 27 9. 3. 12. 15. 18. 102 34. 5.8310 29.15 34.99 28 9.33 3.0551 12.22 15.28 18.33 103 34.33 5.8595 29.30 35.16 29 9.67 3.1091 12.44 15.55 18.65 104 34.67 5.8878 29.44 35.33 30 10. 3.1623 12.65 15.81 18.97 105 35. 5.9161 29.58 35.50 31 10.33 3.2145 12.86 16.07 19.29 106 35.33 5.9442 29.72 35.67 32 10.67 3.2659 13.06 16.33 19.60 107 35.67 5.9722 29.86 35.83 33 11. 3.3166 13.27 16.58 19.90 108 36. 6. 30. 36. 34 11.33 3.3665 13.47 16.83 20.20 109 36.33 6.0277 30.14 36.17 35 11.67 3.4157 13.66 17.08 20.49 110 36.67 6.0553 30.28 36.33 36 12. 3.4641 13,86 17.32 20.78 111 37. 6.0828 30.41 36.50 37 12.33 3.5119 14.05 17.56 21.07 112 37.33 6.1101 30.55 36.66 38 12.67 3.5590 14.24 17.80 21.35 113 37.67 6.1374 30.69 36.83 39 13. 3.6056 14.42 18.03 21.63 114 38. 6.1644 30.82 36.99 40 13.33 3.6515 14.61 18.26 21.91 115 38.33 6.1914 30.96 37.15 41 13.67 3.6969 14.79 18.48 22.18 116 38.67 6.2183 31.09 37.31 42 14. 3.7417 14.97 18.71 22.45 117 39. 6.2450 31.22 37.47 43 14.33 3.7859 15.14 18.93 22.72 118 39.33 6.2716 31.36 37.63 44 14.67 3.8297 15.32 19.15 22.98 119 39.67 6.2981 31.49 37.79 45 15. 3.8730 15.49 19.36 23.24 120 40. 6.3246 31.62 37.95 46 15.33 3.9158 15.66 19.58 23.49 121 40.33 6.3509 31.75 38.11 47 15.67 3.9582 15.83 19.79 23.75 122 40.67 6.3770 31.89 38.26 48 16. 4. 16. 20. 24. 123 41. 6.4031 32.02 38.42 49 16.33 4.0415 16.17 20.21 24.25 124 41.33 6.4291 32.15 38.57 50 16.67 4.0825 16.33 20.41 24.49 125 41.67 6.4550 32.27 38.73 51 17. 4.1231 16.49 20.62 24.74 126 42. 6.4807 32.40 38.88 52 17.33 4.1633 16.65 20.82 24.98 127 42.33 6.5064 32.53 39.04 53 17.67 4.2032 16.81 21.02 25.22 128 42.67 6.5320 32.66 39.19 54 18. 4.2426 16.97 21.21 25.46 129 43. 6.5574 32.79 39.34 55 18.33 4.2817 17.13 21.41 25.69 130 43.33 6.5828 32.91 39.50 56 18.67 4.3205 17.28 21.60 25.92 131 43.67 6.6081 33.04 39.65 57 19. 4.3589 17.44 21.79 26.15 132 44. 6.6332 33.17 39.80 58 19.33 4.3970 17.59 21.98 26.38 133 44.33 6.6583 33.29 39.95 59 19.67 4.4347 17.74 22.17 26.61 134 44.67 6.6833 33.42 40.10 60 20. 4.4721 17.89 22.36 26.83 135 45. 6.7082 33.54 40.25 61 20.33 4.5092 18.04 22.55 27.06 136 45.33 6.7330 33.67 40.40 62 20.67 4.5461 18.18 22.73 27.28 137 45.67 6.7577 33.79 40.55 63 21. 4.5826 18.33 22.91 27.50 138 46. 6.7823 33.91 40.69 64 21.33 4.6188 18.48 23.09 27.71 139 46.33 6.8069 34.03 40.84 65 21.67 4.6547 18.62 23.27 27.93 140 46.67 6.8313 34.16 40.99 66 22. 4.6904 18.76 23.45 28.14 141 47. 6.8557 34.28 41.13 67 22.33 4.7258 18.90 23.63 28.35 142 47.33 6.8799 34.40 41.28 68 22.67 4.7610 19.04 23.80 28.57 143 47.67 6.9041 34.52 41.42 69 23. 4.7958 19.18 23.98 28.77 144 48. 6.9282 34.64 41.57 70 23.33 4.8305 19.32 24.15 28.98 145 48.33 6.9522 34.76 41.71 71 23.67 4.8648 19.46 24.32 29.19 146 48.67 6.9762 34.88 41.86 72 24. 4.8990 19.60 24.49 29.39 147 49. 7. 35. 42. 73 24.33 4.9329 19.73 24.66 29.60 148 49.33 7.0238 35.12 42.14 74 24.67 4.9666 19.87 24.83 29.80 149 49.67 7.0475 35.24 42.28 75 25. 5. 20. 25. 30. 150 50. 7.0711 35.36 42.43 T WIST TABLES. 1 27 FOUR PLY. No. of yarn to be twist'd. No. of twisted yarn. sq. root of No. twisted yarn. Square root multiplied by No. of yarn to be wist d. No. of ^ twisted yarn. 5q. root of No. ;wisted yarn. Square root multiplied by 4 5 6 t 6 6 1 .2o .o 2. 2.5 3. 7b 1 Q ly. t.ooSy 21.79 . 26.15 2 .50 .7071 2.83 3.54 4.24 77 or; 1.3875 21.94 26.32 3 .75 .8660 3.46 4.33 5.20 78 .50 i.4159 22.08 26.50 4 1. 1. 4. 5. 6. 79 . i o A A A A 1 22.22 26.66 5 .25 1.1180 4.47 5.59 6.71 80 OA JU. db.4: / Zl 22.36 26.83 6 .50 1.2247 4.90 6.12 7.35 81 of; 1 f; 4.0 22.5 27. 7 .75 1.3229 5.29 6.61 7.94 .OU A f;o'7'7 4:.0 J / / 22.64 27.17 8 2. 1.4142 5.66 7.07 8.49 Oo . < o 4.5552 22.78'27.33 9 .25 1.5 6. 7.5 9. 84 01 A f;qo A 4:.0o Jb 22.91127.50 10 .50 1.5811 6.32 7.91 9.49 85 or; A AAQft 4:.bUyo 23.05'27.66 11 .75 1.6583 6.63 8.29 9.95 Q A ob f;a .OU A AQAft 4.bobO 23.18, 27.82 12 3. 1.7321 6.93 8.66 10.39 QT tf; . < o A A AQT 23.32 27.98 13 .25 1.8028 7.21 9.01 10.82 c5o oo A AQAA 4:.byU4: 23.45 28.14 14 .50 1.8708 7.48 9.35 11.22 OPl A Tl TA 4:. / 1 / U 23.58 28.30 15 .75 1.9365 7.75 9.68 11.62 90 PiA .OU 4:. 1 4:04b 23.72 28.46 16 4. 2. 8. 10. 12. 91 1 f; . I o A TAQT 4. / by / 23.85 28.62 17 2.0616 8.25 10.31 12.37 QO yz 0^ ^o. 23.98 28.77 18 • OU 8.49 10.61 12.73 QQ yo 25 4 8218 24.11 28.93 19 .75 2.1794 8.72 10.90 13.08 94 PIA .OU 4:. 04 / / 24.24 29.09 30 o. 8.94 11.18 13.42 QPL yo . 1 o 4 8734 24.37 29.24 21 .Jo 2.2913 9.17 11.46 13.75 QA yb OA A QQQA 4:.o yyu 24.49 29.39 22 .oU 2.3452 9.38 11.73 1 4.07 QT y / .^O 4 924^4 24.62 29.55 23 .75 9.59 11.99 14.39 QQ yo PIA .OU A QAQ7 24.75 29.70 24 D. 2.4495 9.80 12.25 14.70 QQ yy . 1 o 4:.y / ^y 24.87 29.85 25 • JO 2.5 10. 12.5 15. 100 of; f; O. 25. 30. 26 .OU 2.5495 10.20 12.75 15.30 J.U1 or; .^o f; aoaq 25.12 30.15 27 . i o 2.5981 10.39 12.99 15.59 1 AO ±UZ f;A .OU 5 0498 25.25 30.30 28 rr / . 2.6458 10.58 13.23 15.87 1 AQ ±UO 7?; . / o f; ataa O.U 1 25.37 30.45 29 .25 10.77 13.46 16.16 104 OA r; AQQA o.uyyu 25.50 30.59 30 .50 2.7386 10.95 13.69 16.43 105 of; r; 1 OQr; 0.1 JoO 25.62 30.74 31 .75 11.14 13.92 16.70 106 f;a .OU r; 1 ATft 0.14 / o 25.74 30.89 32 8. 2.8284 11.31 14.14 16.97 107 tf; . I o r; 1 TOA O.l < ^u 25.86 31.03 33 2.8723 11.49 14.36 17.23 108 07 r; 1 QAO O.iyb^ 25.98 31.18 34 .ou 2.9155 11.66 14.58 17.49 109 of; r; OOAO O. J^U^ 26.10 31.32 35 .75 2.9580 11.83 14,79 17.75 110 f;a .OU f; oaaa O. J4:4:U 26.22 31.46 36 o V. 3. 12. 15. 18. 111 tf; . / o f; oats o. Jb / o 26.34 31.61 37 • ZO 3.0414 12.17 15.21 18.25 112 28 f; oqi r; o.zyio 26.46 31.75 38 .OU 3.0822 12.33 15.41 18.49 llo .zo r; Qi f;i o.oioi 26.58 31.89 39 .75 3.1225112.49 15.61 18.73 11/1 f;a ,ou r; QQftF; O.OoOO 26.69 32.03 40 lU. 3.1623 12.65 15.81 18.97 1 1 no 1 f; . < o 5 3618 26.81 32.17 41 O r; 3.2016 12.81 16,01 19.21 1 1 A lib 29 r; Q«r;o 26.93 32.31 42 .50 3.2404 12.96 16.20 19.44 117 or; f; a aqq 0.4UOO 27.04 32.45 43 .75 3.2787 13.11 16.39 19.67 118 f;a .OU f; /I Qi A O.4ol4 27.16 32.59 44 11. 3.3166 13.27 16.58 19.90 119 tf; . / o r; /< r;AQ 0.4040 27.27 32.73 45 .ZO 3.3541 13.42 16.77 20.12 120 QA oU. f; a tvo 0.4 i t Z 27.39 32.86 46 .OU 3.3912 13.56 16.96 20.35 121 of; .zo r; r; o.o 27.5 33. 47 . / o 3.4278 13.71 17.14 20.57 122 r;A .OU f; r;oo7 o.o J^ / 27.61 33.14 48 1 o 3.4641 13.86 17.32 20.78 123 Tr; . / o r; r;AF;Q 0.0400 27.73 33.27 49 .i^O 3.5 14. 17.5 21. 1 OA 1Z4: Q1 ol. f; F;A7ft O.Ob / o 27.84 33.41 50 .50 3.5355 14.14 17.68 21.21 12o of; .JO f; r;QAO o.oyu J 27.95 33.54 51 .75 3.5707 14.28 17.85 21.42 126 r;A .OU f; ai of; O.bl JO 28.06 33.67 52 1 Q lo. 3.6056 14.42 18.03 21.63 127 . / O f; aQ/4 t O.bo4 / 28.17 33.81 53 • JO 3.6401 14.56 18.20 21.84 128 QO o J. f; a f; AO O.bOby 28.28 33.94 54 .OU 3.6742 14.70 18.37 22.05 129 of; .JO r; ATQQ O.b / oy 28.39 34.07 OO .75 3.7081 14.83 18.54 22.25 130 r;A .OU r; TAAQ o. / uuy 28.50 34.21 Ob 1 A. 3.7417 14.97 18.71 22.45 131 tf; . < o O. / J JO 28.61 34.34 o / .zo 3.7749115.10 18.87 22.65 132 QQ OO. 5.7446 28.72 34.47 Oo Pin .OU 3.8079il5.23 19.04 22.85 1 QQ loo o f; .JO 5.7663 28.83 34.60 59 .75 3.8406 15. 36 19.20 23.04 134 .50 5.7879 28.94 34.73 60 ±o. 3.8730 15.49 19.37 23.24 135 .75 5.8095 29.05 34.86 CK'\ .zo 3.9051 15.62 19.53 23.43 136 Q/l 04. 5.8310 29.15 34.99 CK.O K)Z .OU 3.9370 15.75 19.69 23.62 137 .25 5.8524 29.26 35.11 DO . / O 3.968e 15.88 19.84 23.81 138 .50 5.8737 29.37 35.24 04: 1 A ±D. 4. 16. 20. 24. 139 .75 5.8949 29.47 35.37 DO .ZO 4.0311116.12 20.16 24.ie 140 35. 5.9161 29.58 35.50 DO .OU 4.0620'il6.25 20.31 24.37 141 .25 5.9372 29.69 35.62 .lo 4.0927'l6.37 20.46 24.56 142 .50 5.9582 29.79 35.75 68 17. 4.1231il6.4£ 20.62 124.74 143 .75 5.9791 29.90 35.87 69 .25 4.1533 16.61 20.77124.92 144 36. 6. 30. 36. 70 .50 4.1833 16.72 20.92:25. IC 145 .25 6.0208 30.10 36.12 71 .75 4.2130|16.8£ 21.07125.28 146 .50 6.0415 30.21 36.25 72 18. 4.2426 16.9'; ' 21.21125.46 147 .75 6.0622 30.31 36.37 73 .25 4.2720 17.0^ ) 21.36 25.62 148 37. 6.0828 30.41 36.50 74 .50 4.301217.20121. 51 25.8] 149 .25 6.1033 30.52 36.62 75 .75 I4.3301|17.32 21.65, 25.9^ 150 .50 6.1237 30.62 36.74 128 TWIST TABLES. FIVE PLY. No. of No. of twisted bq. root Square root No. of No of twisted Sq. root Square root yarn of No. multiplied by yarn of No. multiplied by to be twist'd. twisted yarn. to be twist d. twisted yarn. 4 5 6 yarn. yarn. 5 6 1 1.79 2.24 2.68 1 D JLO.Z 3.8987 19.49 23.39 2 A .4: .OOiiO 2.53 3.16 3.79 77 .4 3.9243 19.62 23.55 3 .6 .7746 3.10 3.87 4.65 78 .6 3.9497 19.75 23.70 4 Q .O .8944 3.58 4.47 5.37 79 Q .O 3.9749 19.87 23.85 5 1. 1- 4. 5. 6. 80 lo. 4. 20. 24. 6 .2 1.0954 4.38 5.48 6.57 81 .2 4.0249 20.12 24.15 7 .4 1.1832 4.73 5.92 7.10 82 .4 4.0497 20.25 24.30 8 .6 1.2649 5.06 6.32 7.59 83 .6 4.0743 20.37 24.45 9 .8 1.3416 5.37 6.71 8.05 84 Q .O 4.0988 20.49.24.59 10 1.4142 5.66 7.07 8.49 85 1 '7 4.1231 20.62124.74 11 .2 1.4832 5.93 7.42 8.90 86 O 4.1473,20.74 24.88 12 .4 1.5492 6.20 7.75 9.30 87 .4 4.1713'20.86|25.03 13 .6 l.DlZO 6.45 8.06 9.67 C2Q OO .o 4.1952,20.98125.17 Q .o JL .o / oo 6.69 8.37 10.04 QQ Q .o 4.2190'21. 10 25.31 15 Q O. 1 'TQOI 1, / O 6.93 8.66 10.39 90 4.2426 21.21 25.46 XO .2 1 '7QQQ 7.16 8.95 10.73 91 4.2661 21.33 25.60 17 .4 1 Q -1 Q Q 7.38 9.22 11.06 92 .4 4.2895 21.45 25.74 18 .6 j-.oy / 4 7.59 9.49 11.38 93 n .O 4.3128 21.56 25.88 19 .8 7.80 9.75 11.70 94 Q .c5 4.3359 21.68 26.02 20 A 4. o ^. 8. 10. 12. 95 1 Q xy. 4.3589 21.79 26.15 21 .2 2.0494 8.20 10.25 12.30 96 .2 4.3818 21.91 26.29 22 .4 2.0976 8.39 10.49 12.59 97 ,4 4.4045 22.02 26.43 23 .6 ^.144o 8.58110.72 12.87 98 .6 4.4272 22.14126.56 24 .8 2.1909 8.76 10.95 13.15 99 Q 4.4497 22.25 26.70 25 o. 2.2361 8.94 11.18 13.42 100 4.4721 22.36 26.83 26 .2 2.2804 9.12 11.40 13.68 101 4.4944 22.47 26.97 27 .4 2.3238 9.30 11.62 13.94 102 .4 4.5166 22.58 27.10 28 .6 2.3664 9.47 11.83 14.20 103 .6 4.5387 22.69 27.23 29 .8 2.4083 9.63 12.04 14.45 104 Q .O 4.5607 22.80 27.36 30 D. 2.4495 9.80 12.25 14.70 105 ^x. 4.5826 22.91 27.50 31 .2 2.4900 9.96 12.45 14.94 106 .2 4.6043 23.02 27.63 4.6260 23.13 27.76 32 .4 2.5298 10.12 12.65 15.18 107 .4 33 .6 2.5690:10.28 12.85 15.41 108 .6 4.6476 23. 24 27.89 34 .8 2.6077 10.43 13.04 15.65 109 Q .o 4.6690 23.35 28.01 Q - oo / . 2.6458 10.58 13.23 15.87 110 4.6904 23.45 28.14 36 .2 2.6833 10.73 13.42 16.10 111 .2 4.7117 23.56 28.27 37 .4 2.7203 10.88 13.60 16.32 112 .4 4.7329 23.66 28.40 38 .6 2.7568;11.03 13.78 16.54 113 a. .o 4.7539 23.77 28.52 39 .8 2.7928 11.17 13.96 16.76 114 Q 4.7749 23.87 28.65 40 Q O. 2.8284:11.31 14.14 16.97 115 9Q 4.7958 23.98 28.77 41 .2 2.8636 11.45 14.32 17.18 116 4.8166 24.08 28.90 42 .4 2.8983 11.59 14.49 17.39 117 .4 4.8374 24.19 29.02 43 .6 2.9326 11.73 14.66 17.60 118 .6 4.8580 24.29 29.15 44 .8 2.9665 11.87 14.83 17.80 119 .8 4.8785 24.39 29.27 45 3. 12. 15. 18. 120 9 4 Z4. 4.8990 24.49,29.39 .2 3.0332 12.13 15.17 18.20 121 .L 4.9193 24.60 29.52 47 .4 3.0659 12.26 15.33 18.40 122 .4 4.9396 24.70 29.64 48 .6 3.0984 12.39 15.49 18.59 123 .6 4.9598 24.80,29.76 49 .8 3.1305 12.52 15.65 18.78 124 Q .O 4.9800 24.90 29.88 50 1 n -LU. 3.1623 12.65 15.81 18.97 125 9!^ 5. 25. 30. 51 .2 3.1937 12.77 15.97 19.16 126 5.0200 25.10,30.12 52 .4 3.2249 12.90 16.12 19.35 127 A .4 5.0398 25.20,30.24 53 .6 3.2558 13.02 16.28 19.53 128 a .D 5.0596 25.30 30.36 54 .8 3.2863 13.15 16.43 19.72 129 .8 5.0794 25.40 30.48 55 -L J-. 3.3166 13.27 16.58 19.90 130 ^o. 5.0990 25.50 30.59 56 3.3466 13.39 16.73 20.08 131 .2 5.1186 25.59.30.71 57 .4 3.3764 13.51116.88 20.26 132 .4 5.1381 25.69,30.83 58 .6 3.4059 13.62 17.03 20.44 133 .6 5.1575 25.79 30.95 59 .8 3.4351 13.74 17.18 20.61 134 Q .O 5.1769 25.88 31.06 60 3.4641 13.86 17.32 20.78 135 97 5.1962 25.98 31.18 61 3.4928 13. 97 17.46 20.96 136 o .^1 5.2154 26.08 31.29 62 .4 3.5214 14.09 17.61 21.13 137 .4 5.2345 26.17 31.41 63 .6 3.5496 14.20 17.75 21.30 138 c* .D 5.2536 26.27 31.52 64 .8 3.5777 14.31 17.89 21.47 139 .8 5.2726,26.36 31.64 DO 1 Q 3.6056 14.42 18.03 21.63 140 9Q 5.2915126.46 31.75 DO .2 3.6332 14.53 18.17 21.80 141 5.3104i26.55 31.86 67 .4 3.6606 14.64 18.30 21.96 142 .4 5.3292, 26.65 31.97 68 .6 3.6878 14.75 18.44 22.13 143 .6 5.3479i26.74 32.09 69 .8 3.7148114.86 18.57 22.29 144 .8 5.3666 26.83 32.20 70 14. 3.7417 14.97 18.71 22.45 145 29. 5.3852 26.93 32.31 71 .2 3.7683 15.07 18.84 22.61 146 .2 5.4037 27.02 32.42 72 .4 3.7947 15.18 18.97 22.77 147 .4 5.4222 27.11 32.53 73 .6 3.8210 15.28 19.10 22.93 148 .6 5.4406 27.20 32.64 74 ,8 3.8471il5. 38 19.24 23.08 149 .8 5.4589 27.29 32.7o 75 15. 3.8730 15.49 19.37 23.24 1.50 30. 5.4772 27.39 32.86 TWIST TABLES. 129 SIX PLY. No. of No. 01 twistec !Sq. root Square root No. of No of t VV IB LtJU Sq. root \ Square root yarn to be of No. twisted multiplied by yarn to be of No. twisted multiplied by yarn. yarn. twist'd yarn. 4 5 6 twist'd yarn. 5 6 1 .17 .4082 1.63 2.04 2.45 76 12.67 3.559C 17.80 21.35 2 .33 .5774 2.31 2.89 3.46 77 .83 3.5824 17.91 21.49 3 .50 .7071 2.83 3.54 4.24 78 13. 3.6056 18.03 21.63 4 .67 .8165 3.27 4.08 4.90 79 .17 3.6286 18.14 21.77 5 .83 .9129 3.65 4.56 5.48 80 .33 3.6515 18.26 21.91 6 1. 1. 4. 5. 6. 81 .50 3.6742 18.37 22.05 7 .17 1.0801 4.32 5.40 6.48 82 .67 3.6969 18.48 22.18 8 .33 1.1547 4.62 5.77 6.93 83 .83 3.7192 18.60 22.32 9 .50 1.2247 4.90 6.12 7.35 84 14. 3.7417 18.71 22.45 10 .67 1.2910 5.16 6.45 7.75 85 .17 3.7639 18.82 22.58 11 .83 1.3540 5.42 6.77 8.12 86 .33 3.7859 18.93 22.72 12 2. 1.4142 5.66 7.07 8.49 87 .50 3.8079 19.04 22.85 13 .17 1.4720 5.89 7.36 8.83 88 .67 3.8297 19.15 22.98 14 .33 1.5275 6.11 7.64 9.17 89 .83 3.8514 19.26 23.11 15 .50 1.5811 6.32 7.91 9.49 90 15. 3.8730 19.36 23.24 16 .67 1.6330 6.53 8.16 9.80 91 .17 3.8944 19.47 23.37 17 .83 1.6833 6.73 8.42 10.10 92 .33 3.9158 19.58 23.49 18 3. 1.7321 6.93 8.66 10.39 93 .50 3.9370 19.69 23.62 19 .17 1.7795 7.12 8.90 10.68 94 .67 3.9582 19.79 23.75 20 .33 1.8257 7.30 9.13 10.95 95 .83 3.9791 19.90 23.87 21 .50 1.8708 7.48 9.35 11.22 96 16. 4. 20. 24. 22 .67 1.9149 7.66 9.57 11.49 97 .17 4.0208 20.10 24.12 23 .83 1.9579 7.83 9.79 11.75 98 .33 4.0415 20.21 24.25 24 4. 2. 8. 10. 12. 99 .50 4.0620 20.31 24.37 25 .17 2.0412 8.16 10.21 12.25 100 .67 4.0825 20.41 24.49 26 .33 2.0817 8.33 10.41 12.49 101 .83 4.1028 20.51 24.62 27 .50 2.1213 8.49 10.61 12.73 102 17. 4.1231 20.62 24.74 28 .67 2.1602 8.64 10.80 12.96 103 .17 4.1433 20.72 24.86 29 .83 2.1985 8.79 10.99 13.19 104 .33 4.1633 20.82 24.98 30 5. 2.2361 8.94 11.18 13.42 105 .50 4.1833 20.92 25.10 31 .17 2.2730 9.09 11.37 13.64 106 .67 4.2032 21.02 25.22 32 .33 2.3094 9.24 11.55 13.86 107 .83 4.2229 21.11 25.34 33 .50 2.3452 9.38 11.73 14.07 108 18. 4.2426 21.21 25.46 34 .67 2.3805 9.52 11.90 14.28 109 .17 4.2622 21.31 25.57 35 .83 2.4152 9.66 12.08 14.49 110 .33 4.2817 21.41 25.69 36 6. 2.4495 9.80 12.25 14.70 111 .50 4.3012 21.51 25.81 37 .17 2.4833 9.93 12.42 14.90 112 .67 4.3205 21.60 25.92 38 .33 2.5166 10.07 12.58 15.10 113 .83 4.3397 21.70 26.04 39 .50 2.5495 10.20 12.75 15.30 114 19. 4.3589 21.79 26.15 40 .67 2.5820 10.53 12.91 15.49 115 .17 4.3780 21.89 26.27 41 .83 2.6141 10.46 13.07 15.68 116 .33 4.3970 21.98 26.38 42 7. 2.6458 10.58 13.23 15.87 117 .50 4.4159 22.08 26.50 43 .17 2.6771 10.71 13.39 16.06 118 .67 4.4347 22.17 26.61 44 .33 2.7080 10.83 13.54 16.25 119 .83 4.4535 22.27 26.72 45 .50 2.7386 10.95 13.69 16.43 120 20. 4.4721 22.36 26.83 46 .67 2.7689 11.08 13.84 16.61 121 .17 4.4907 22.45 26.94 47 .83 2.7988 11.20 13.99 16.79 122 .33 4.5092 22.55 27.06 48 8. 2.8284 11.31 14.14 16.97 123 .50 4.5277 22.64 27.17 49 .17 2.8577 11.43 14.29 17.15 124 .67 4.5461 22.73 27.28 50 .33 2.8868 11.55 14.43 17.32 125 .83 4.5644 22.82 27.39 51 .50 2.9155 11.66 14.58 17.49 126 21. 4.5826 22.91 27.50 52 .67 2.9439 11.78 14.72 17.66 127 .17 4.6007 23.00 27.60 53 .83 2.9721 11.89 14.86 17.83 128 ^3 4.6188 23.09 27.71 54 9. 3. 12. 15. 18. 129 .50 4.6368 23.18 27.82 55 .17 3.0277 12.11 15.14 18.17 130 .67 4.6547 23.27 27.93 56 .33 3.0551 12.22 15.28 18.33 131 .83 4.6726 23.36 28.04 57 .50 3.0822 12.33 15.41 18.49 132 22. 4.6904 23.45 28.14 58 .67 3.1091 12.44 15.55 18.65 133 .17 4.7081 23.54 28.25 59 .83 3.1358 12.54 15.68 18.81 134 .33 4.7258 23.63 28.35 60 10. 3.1623 12.65 15.81 18.97 135 .50 4.7434 23.72 28.46 61 .17 3.1885 12.75 15.94 19.13 136 .67 4.7610 23.80 28.57 62 .33 3.2145 12.86 16.07 19.29 137 .83 4.7784 23.89 28.67 63 .50 3.2404 12.96 16.20 19.44 138 23. 4.7958 23.98 28.77 64 .67 3.2659 13.06 16.33 19.60 139 .17 4.8132 24.07 28.88 65 .83 3.2914 13.17 16.46 19.75 140 .33 4.8305 24.15 28.98 66 11. 3.3166 13.27 16.58 19.90 141 .50 4.8477 24.24 29.09 67 .17 3.3417 13.37 16.71 20.05 142 .67 4.8648 24.32 29.19 68 .33 3.3665 13.47 16.83 20.20 143 .83 4.8819 24.41 29.29 69 .50 3.3912 13.56 16.96 20.35 144 24. 4.8990 24.49 29.39 70 .67 3.4157 13.66 17.08 20.49 145 .17 4.9160 24.58 29.50 71 .83 3.4400 13.76 17.20 20.64 146 .33 4.9329 24.66 29.60 72 12. 3.4641 13.86 17.32 20.78 147 .50 4.9497 24.75 29.70 73 .17 3.4881 13.95 17.44 20.93 148 .67 4.9666 24.83 29.80 74 .33 3.5119 14.05 17.56 21.07 149 .83 4,9833 24.92 29.90 75 .50 3.5355 14.14 17.68 21.21 150 25. 5. 25. 30. 130 WE A VING. Our general comments on the weave-room will be found in our data relating to the Northrop loom, both in this book and in our loom catalogue entitled ''Labor Saving Looms." The weave-room covers so many possible combinations in machine and product, that there are few general statements that may be made. Looms endeavor to perform so many unmechanical operations, that they do not fall within the ordinary class of machine, and the shop trained mechanic or engineering expert would find ''fixing'' an impossible immediate task, his varied experience in other lines being worthless in this special sphere. We are doing our best to eliminate the curious make-shifts which have been on duty for so long a time that they receive an almost superstitious reverence. The weave-room presents the most notable instance of piece payment in the cotton mill system, and also the chief instance of personal responsibility for defect in product. The help are responsible for more strikes than in any other department outside the mule-room. Any invention or process that reduces the number of laborers employed in this section is worthy of investigation. The fact that the weaver must rely on the efforts of another laborer, to keep the machinery up to its best efficiency, also complicates the problem of management. American cotton mills are continually forced into additional complications by the requirements of more varied weaves, the insistence of fashion calling for continual changes in patterns. The Jacquard motion, the Dobby and various other attachments are becoming common, and the skill and experience of the operative must necessarily assume a higher plane, in conformity to new requirements. We make no attempt to touch upon the various points involved in fancy weaves, as the limits of the present volume are too narrow. Much of the necessary education, and by far the better part, must come from actual experience. Reference to the problemxS introduced by automatic weaving will be found elsewhere. WE A VING. 131 RULES AND INFORMATION FOR WEAVERS. To find the number of yards of cloth to the pound avoirdupois : Multiply its width in inches by the weight in grains of a piece containing 1 square inch; divide 194.44 by the product and the quotient will be the number of yards to the pound. Example: Width of cloth, 30 inches; weight of 1 square 194.44 inch, 1.5 grains. = 4.32 yards per pound. 30X1.5 To find the average number of yarn required to produce cloth of aivy desired iveight, width and pick : Add together the number of picks per inch of warp and filling; multiply their sum by the yards of cloth per pound, and this product by the width in inches; divide by 840, and the quotient will be the average number of yarn required. For any increase in weight by sizing, proportional allowance must be made in the yarn. As the filling is taken up in crossing the warp, and the amount varies in different goods this rule is not exact, but will approximate near enough to furnish a basis for practical purposes. Weight of a square yard of cloth ivhen the weight of a square inch is given : Weight of eq, in. ingrains. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Weight of sq. yd. in lbs. .1851 .3703 .5554 .7406 .9257 1.1109 1.2960 To find the size ofimrp or filling in any piece of goods: Take 8 or more threads of any known number, say 2 feet long, and tie the ends together; this makes a link, through which draw the same number of threads of the same length of the unknown number, and twist the two links thus made as you would twist a chain. A keen eye will detect any difference in the size of the two links. By adding to or taking from either link, they can be varied in size in proportion to the number of threads used, and brought to nearly equal each other. When as nearly as possible alike, the unknown number can be approximately determined by the proportionate number of strands in each link. Thus, if 28 is the known number, and if 7 strands of the unknown make an equal size link of 8 strands of the known, the number of the unknown will be of 28=24.5. 132 WE A VING. Cotton cloth is sold on a basis of a certain number of yards to the pound, with a certain number of picks or threads per inch in warp and filling. Standard print cloths weigh seven yards to the pound, have 64 threads of warp and 64 picks of filling to the inch, and are called 64X64 — seven-yard goods. Loom reeds are numbered by the number of dents or splits to the inch. The number of threads in a warp divided by the number of the reed multiplied by the width in inches, will give the number of threads in a dent. Linens take their technical fineness from the number of hundred dents or splits in a loom reed thirty-seven inches wide. There are two threads to each dent. The following table, adapted from Barlow's * 'History of Weaving,'' gives the number of threads to the inch for each ''count" of linen goods. Hun- dreds. Threads per inch. Hun- dreds. Threads per inch. Hun- dreds. Threads per inch. Hun- dreds. Threads per inch 5 00 27.03 12 00 64.86 19 00 102.7 26 00 140.5 6 00 32.43 13 00 70.27 20 00 108.1 27 00 145.9 7 00 37.84 14 00 75.68 21 00 113.5 28 00 151.4 8 00 43.24 15 00' 81.08 22 00 118.9 29 00 156.8 9 00 48.65 16 00 86.49 23 00 124.3 30 00 162.2 10 00 54.05 17 00 91.89 24 00 129.7 31 00 167.6 7 11 00 59.46 18 00 97.30 25 00 135.1 32 00 173.0 Weight of imrp or filling in one square yard : The tables on pages 134-137 give the weight in decimal fractions of a pound of the quantity of common warp and weft or filling in one square yard of cloth for any number of yarn, from five to one hundred, and for any number of picks per inch from twenty to one hundred and eighty. Multiply the weight given in the tables by .525 for woolen, 1.5 for worsted, 2.8 for linen and .525 for silk, if the number of the silk represents the number of hundred yards per ounce. Both warp and filling take up in weaving, by passing over and under alternate threads; therefore, one yard of warp or filling will fall a percentage short of making a yard of cloth. This percentage varies with each different size of yarn and number of picks per inch, and for other reasons; consequently, the tables have been made, giving the weights WE A VING. 133 of straight yarn, to which must be added the take-up or shrinkage, to obtain the precise weight of a yard of cloth. It may be safe to say that from seven to eight per cent, is an average shrinkage on cotton goods. On some woolen cloths, the finishing processes reduce the weight so that the calculated weights are as near as may be to the weight of the finished goods. Yarn is commonly numbered before it is slashed or sized; and in estimating the weight of finished cloth, the quantity of sizing added to the warp must be known. Production in yards of a loom running constantly for ten hours : The tables on pages 138-139 give the number of yards of cloth which can be woven per loom in one day of ten hours, if the loom runs constantly. If the quantity given in the tables is exceeded in the production of any loom, it shows that an error has been made in estimating the number of picks per inch or in the speed of the loom. The same errors might account for a falling short of the quantities in the table; but as no loom runs constantly, the difference between the actual production and the possible production, represents the quantity that might be woven during the time that the loom is stopped. The percentage of time of stoppage of a loom can be ascertained by dividing this difference by the possible production. To find the yards per pound of goods, from small samples of cloth : Sample one square inch; divide 5.40123 by the weight in grains of one square inch of cloth. With sample four square inches; divide 21,60492 by the weight in grains of four square inches of cloth; the quotient in either case will be the yards per pound of 36 inch cloth. Other widths of cloth will be in proportion, and rules for samples of other sizes may be worked out from the rule for one inch sample. To find the number, or count, of yarns, v:arp or filling, from short samples ; say 3 inch lengths : Set the weight of a delicate grain scale to .694 grains; place in pan 3 inch lengths of the yarn in question; the number of 3 inch pieces of yarn needed to balance scale will be the number or count of the yarn. The following tables were prepared by Mr. Elias Richards of Lynchburg, Virginia, formerly of New Orleans, La. 134 Pounds of Cotton Warp or Filling in one square yard. No. ol Picks per inch. yarn. 20 22 23 24k AO 4h 87 538 20 5 1 71 .i /i ,lo9 .19 / 1 .206 .214 .223 .231 .240 .249 6 1 J-Q . J-OU .157 .164 1 .171 .179 .186 .193 .200 .207 7 ! 1 .135 .141 ; .147 .153 .159 .165 .171 .178 8 i 1 . J-U / .123 j .129 .134 .139 .145 .150 .155 9 1 AA .iUU 1 a;^ . J-Uo .±1U 1 .114 .119 .124 .129 .133 .138 10 .uoo AQA AQ i .uyi .099 .103 .107 .111 .116 .120 .124 11 •u / o Aft A .UOO AQA .uyu ,094 .097 .101 .105 .109 .113 12 n^i .u / X AT^ .079 .086 .089 .093 .096 .100 .104 13 ARQ .uoy A7Q .U / O ATA .u / o ATQ .u / y .082 .086 .089 .092 .096 14 A^i A .067 A7A .U / U ATQ .u / o .077 .080 .083 .086 .089 15 .uo / .UOU AAQ .UOo AAA .UOO AAQ ,uoy ATI .U / ± .074 .077 .080 .083 16 A^R .UOO .059 .UOiS AAA .U04: AAT .UO / ] .070 .072 .075 .078 17 .uou ,UOo .055 .058 AAA .UOU AAQ .UOo .066 : .068 .071 .073 18 A'^A .UOU .0o2 .Ooo A^T .UO / AAA .UOU .062 .064 .067 .069 19 .U4 / .050 A^O .U04: .056 .059 .061 .063 .065 20 .Utfco AJ.:=; .Utto .U4: / AAQ .U4:y A^1 .UO± .054 .056 .058 .060 .062 21 ! riAi AAQ A/1 n AAT A/1 Q .051 A?CQ 1 .Uoo .055 .057 .059 22 1 .uoy A/1 1 .U4:± .043 .045 .047 .049 1 .051 .053 .055 .056 23 1 .Uo / AQQ .Uoy .041 .043 .045 .047 .048 .050 .052 .054 24 ' AQ A .U«30 AQT .Uo / .039 All .043 .045 .046 .048 .050 .052 25 .UO'± .Uoo .038 AQQ .Uoy .041 .043 .045 .046 .048 .050 26 .Uoo AQ !^ .Uoo AQA .Uoo AQQ .Uoo .040 .041 .043 .045 .046 .048 27 ,UOZ AQQ .Uoo AQ :^ •Uoo AQT • Uo / .038 ' .040 .041 .043 .044 .046 28 .Uo± AQO .Uo^ .034 AQ ^ • Uoo .037 .038 .040 .041 .043 .044 29 .UoU AQ1 .Uo± .032 AQ 1 .035 .037 .038 .040 .041 .043 30 noQ AQA •UoU .031 AQQ .Uoo .034 .036 .037 .039 .040 .041 31 noQ • UZo AOQ r»Q A .UoU AQO .UOZ .033 AQ X .Uoo .036 .037 .039 .040 32 .027 .028 .029 .031 .032 .033 1 .035 .036 .037 .039 33 .026 .027 .029 .030 .031 .032 .034 .035 .036 .038 34 .025 .026 .028 .029 .030 .032 .033 .034 .035 .037 35 .024 .026 .027 .028 .029 .031 .032 .033 .034 .036 36 .024 .025 .026 .027 .029 .030 .031 .032 .033 .035 37 .023 .024 .025 .027 .028 .029 .030 .031 .032 .034 38 .023 .024 .025 .026 .027 .028 .029 .030 .032 .033 39 .022 .023 .024 .025 .026 .027 .029 .030 .031 .032 40 .021 .022 .024 .025 .026 .027 .028 .029 .030 .031 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 o i 39 5 .2o7 .Job .274 OSQ .291 QAA .OUU .o09 .ol7 .o2o QQ/l .004: 6 .214 .221 .229 OQ A .zoo .243 O^A .Zo / .264 .271 OTQ . z / y 7 .190 .196 OAO .208 OOA .227 .233 OQQ .zoy 8 .161 .166 .171 .177 .182 .187 .193 .197 .204 .209 9 .143 .148 .152 .157 .162 .167 .171 .176 .181 .186 10 .129 .133 .137 .141 .146 .150 .154 .159 .163 .167 11 .117 .121 .125 .129 .132 .136 .140 .144 .148 .152 12 .107 .111 .114 .118 .121 .125 .129 .132 .136 .139 13 .099 .102 .105 .109 .112 .±lo .119 .122 .125 .129 14 .092 .095 .098 .101 .104 1 AT .lU / 1 1 A .±1U .113 .116 .119 15 .086 .089 .091 .094 j .097 .100 .103 .106 .109 .111 16 .080 .083 .086 AQQ ' .Uc5o ; .091 .094 .096 .099 .102 .104 17 .076 .078 .081 AQQ .086 r^QQ .Uoo ,091 .093 .096 AQQ .uyo 18 .071 .074 .076 .079 .081 AQQ .Uoo AQA .UoO .088 .090 .093 19 .068 .070 .072 .074 .077 ATQ .u / y AQ1 .Uo± .083 AQA .Uoo AQ Q .Uoo 20 .064 .066 .069 .071 .073 .075 ATT .U / / .079 AQ1 .Uo± AQ 4 .Uo4: 21 .061 .063 .065 AAT .UO / AAQ .uoy ATI .U / X ATQ .U / O .076 ATQ .U < o AQA .UoU 22 .058 .060 .062 .064 AAA .UOO AAQ .UOo .070 .072 .074 ATA .U / O 23 .056 .058 .060 .061 AAQ .UOo AA .UOO .067 .069 ATI .u / ± ATQ .U / O 24 .054 .055 .057 AXQ .Uoy AA1 .UOl AAO .UO J .064 AAA .uoo AAQ .UOo ATA .U / U 25 .051 .053 A^ .Uoo .057 AXQ AAA .UOU .062 AAQ .UOo AA :^ .UOO AAT .UO / 26 .049 .051 .053 .054 .056 A^^Q .UOo .059 AA1 .UOl AAQ .UOo AA.l .UO* 27 .048 .049 .051 .052 .054 A^A .UOO .057 Ar^Q .Uoy AAA .UOU AAO 28 .046 .047 .049 .051 .052 .054 .055 .057 .058 .060 29 .044 .046 .047 A4 Q .050 .UOZ A^Q ,UOO .055 A.'^A .UOO A?^Q .UOo 30 .043 .044 .046 .047 .049 A?^ A .UOU .051 a;^q ,uoo A!^ ± A?iA .UOO 31 .041 .043 .044 .046 .047 .048 .050 .051 .052 nnA .Uo4: 32 .040 .042 .043 .044 .046 .047 .048 ,050 .051 .052 33 .039 .040 .042 .043 .044 .045 .047 .048 .049 .051 34 .038 .039 .040 .042 .043 .044 .045 .047 .048 .049 35 .037 .038 .039 .040 .042 .043 .044 .045 .046 .048 36 .036 .037 .038 .039 .040 .042 .043 1 .044 .045 .046 37 .035 .036 .037 .038 .039 .041 .042 .043 .044 .045 38 .034 .035 .036 .037 .038 .039 .041 .042 .043 .044 39 .033 .034 .035 .036 .037 .038 .040 .041 .042 .043 40 .032 .033 .034 .035 .036 .037 .039 .040 .041 j .042 Pounds of Cotton Warp or Filling in one square yard. 135 No. of Picks per inch. yarn. 40 41 43 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 10 .171 .176 .180 .184 .189 .193 .197 .201 .206 .210 11 156 .160 !l64 !l68 *171 .175 .179 .183 .187 'l91 12 143 !l46 !l50 .154 !l57 !l61 .164 .168 !l71 !l75 13 !l32 !l35 !l38 !l42 !l45 !l48 .152 .155 !l58 !l62 14 .122 !l26 !l29 .132 .135 !l38 .141 .144 .147 .150 15 !ll4 !ll7 .120 !l23 !l26 !l29 .131 .134 !l37 !l40 16 !l07 !llO .112 .115 .118 !l21 .123 .126 .129 .131 17 !l01 !l03 !l06 .108 .111 !ll3 .116 .118 .121 .124 18 !095 !098 !ioo .102 .105 .107 .110 .112 .114 .117 19 [oob !092 !095 .097 !099 .102 .104 .106 .108 .110 20 .086 !088 !090 !092 .094 !096 .099 .101 .103 .105 21 ]082 !084 .086 !088 .090 .092 .094 .096 .098 .100 22 .078 .080 !082 !084 .086 ]088 .090 .092 .094 .095 23 .075 !076 !078 *080 .082 !084 .086 .088 !o89 .091 24 !071 !073 !075 !077 .079 !080 .082 .084 i086 .087 25 !069 !070 *072 !074 !075 !077 .079 .081 !082 .084 26 !o66 !o68 !069 !071 .073 [074 .076 .077 .079 .081 27 !063 !065 !067 !068 !070 !071 .073 .075 .076 .078 28 !061 *063 !064 ]066 !067 !069 .070 .072 .073 .075 29 *059 .061 .062 .064 !065 !067 .068 .069 !071 .072 30 !057 !059 !060 .061 !063 .064 .066 .067 .069 .070 31 !055 .057 !058 .059 !061 .062 .064 .065 .066 .068 32 !054 .055 .056 .058 .059 .060 .062 .063 .064 .066 33 .052 .053 .055 .056 .057 .058 .060 .061 .062 .064 34 .050 *052 .053 !054 !o55 !057 .058 .059 !061 .062 35 !049 !050 .051 !053 .054 !055 .056 .058 .059 .060 36 !048 !049 050 !051 .052 !054 .055 .056 057 .058 37 !046 !047 !049 *.050 !051 !052 .053 .054 .056 .057 38 .045 .046 .047 .048 .050 .051 .052 .053 .054 .055 39 .044 .045 .046 .047 .048 .049 .051 .052 .053 .054 40 .043 .044 .046 .047 .U4:0 049 050 .UOJL 41 .042 .043 .044 .045 .046 .047 '.048 !049 .050 .051 42 .041 .042 .043 .044 .045 .046 .047 .048 .049 ,050 43 .040 .041 .042 .043 .044 .045 .046 .047 .048 .049 44 .039 .040 .041 .042 .043 .044 .045 .046 .047 .048 45 .038 .039 .040 .041 .042 .043 .044 .045 .046 .047 50 51 52 63 54 65 56 57 58 69 10 .214 .219 .223 .227 .231 .236 .240 .244 .249 .253 11 .195 il99 .203 [2O6 [210 .214 .218 .222 .226 .230 12 .179 !l82 .186 !l89 .193 .196 .200 .204 [207 .211 13 !l65 .168 .171 .175 !l78 .181 .185 .188 *191 .195 14 !l53 .156 .159 .162 !l65 .168 .171 .174 .178 .181 15 .143 .146 .149 .151 !l54 .157 .160 .163 .166 .169 16 .134 .137 .139 .142 !l45 .147 .150 .153 *155 .158 17 .126 .129 .131 .134 !l36 .139 .141 .144 !l46 .149 18 .119 .121 .124 .126 !l29 .131 .133 .136 .138 .140 19 !ll3 !ll5 .117 .120 !l22 !l24 .126 .129 !l31 *133 20 *107 .109 .111 .114 !ll6 !ll8 .120 !l22 .124 .126 21 .102 !l04 .106 .108 !llO !ll2 .114 .116 .118 .120 22 !097 !099 .101 .103 !l05 !l07 .109 .111 [113 .115 23 .093 .095 .097 .099 !ioi !l02 .104 .106 .108' .110 24 .089 .091 .093 .095 !096 !098 .100 .102 .104 .105 25 .086 .087 .089 .091 .093 !094 .096 .098 '099 .101 26 .082 .084 .086 .087 !089 !091 .092 .094 .096 097 27 .079 .081 .083 .084 !086 !087 .089 .090 !092 !094 28 .077 .078 .080 .081 .083 !084 .086 .087 .089 ]090 29 .074 .075 .077 .078 !080 .081 .083 .084 !086 .087 30 .071 .073 .074 .076 .077 .079 .080 .081 .083 084 31 .069 .071 .072 .073 !075 .076 .077 .079 .080 .082 32 .067 .068 .070 .071 .072 .074 .075 .076 .078 .079 33 .065 .066 .068 .069 !070 .071 .073 .074 .075 .077 34 .063 .064 .066 !067 !068 !o69 !071 .072 .073 !074 35 .061 .062 .064 .065 !066 .067 !069 .070 .071 .072 36 .060 .061 .062 .063 !o64 !o65 .067 .068 069 070 37 .058 .059 .060 ;061 !063 !064 .065 .066 '.067 '.068 38 .056 .058 • .059 .060 .061 .062 .063 .064 065 067 39 '.055 *.056 !057 !058 '.059 !060 .062 '.063 '.064 '.065 40 .054 .055 .056 .057 .058 .059 .060 .061 .062 .063 41 .052 .053 .054 .055 .056 .057 .059 .060 .061 .062 42 .051 .052 .053 .054 .055 .056 .057 .058 .059 .060 43 .050 .051 .052 .053 .054 .055 .056 .057 .058 .059 44 .049 .050 .051 .052 .053 .054 .055 .056 .056 .057 45 .048 .049 .050 .050 .051 .052 .053 .054 .055 .056 136 Pounds of Cotton Warp or Filling in one square yard. No. of Picks per inch. yarn. 60 63 64 66 68 70 73 74 76 78 80 .171 .177 .183 .189 .194 .200 .206 .211 .217 .223 .229 16 .161 .166 .171 .177 .182 .187 .193 .197 .204 .209 .214 1 '7 .151 .156 .161 .166 .171 .176 .182 .187 .192 .197 .202 .143 .148 .152 .157 .162 .167 .171 .176 .181 .186 .190 1 Q xa .135 .140 .144 .149 .153 .158 .162 .167 .171 .176 .180 30 .129 .133 .137 .141 .146 .150 .154 .159 .163 .167 .171 oi .122 .127 .131 .135 .139 .143 .147 .151 .155 .159 .163 OO .117 .121 .125 .129 .132 .136 .140 .144 .148 .152 .156 .112 .116 .119 .123 .127 .130 .134 .138 .142 .145 .149 .107 .111 .114 .118 .121 .125 .129 .132 .136 .139 .143 .103 .106 .110 .113 .117 .120 .123 .127 .130 .134 .137 .099 .102 .105 .109 .112 .115 .119 .122 .125 .129 .132 07 Z / .095 .098 .102 .105 .108 .111 .114 .117 .121 .124 .127 .092 .095 .098 .101 .104 .107 .110 .113 .116 .119 .122 .089 .092 .095 .098 .100 .103 .106 .109 .112 .115 .118 30 .086 .089 .091 .094 .097 .100 .103 .106 .109 .111 .114 Qi o± .083 .086 .088 .091 .094 .097 .100 .102 .105 .108 .111 .080 .083 .086 .088 .091 .094 .096 .099 .102 .104 .107 oO .078 .081 .083 .086 .088 .091 .094 .096 .099 .101 .104 .076 .078 .081 .083 .086 .088 .091 .093 .096 .098 .101 oO .073 .076 .078 .081 .083 .086 .088 .091 .093 .096 .098 36 .071 .074 .076 .079 .081 .083 .086 .088 .090 .093 .095 o / .069 .072 .074 .076 .079 .081 .083 .086 .088 .090 .093 38 .068 .070 .072 .074 .077 .079 .081 .083 .086 .088 .090 0«7 .066 .068 .070 .073 .075 .077 .079 .081 .084 .086 .088 40 .064 .066 .069 .071 .073 .075 .077 .079 .081 .084 .086 41 .063 .065 .067 .069 .071 .073 .075 .077 .079 .082 .084 42 061 .063 065 .067 .069 071 .073 .076 .078 .080 .082 43 ;060 .062 ;064 ;066 !068 !070 !072 !074 !076 !078 !080 44 .058 .060 .062 .064 .066 .068 .070 .072 .074 .076 .078 45 .057 .059 .061 .063 .065 .067 .069 .070 .072 .074 .076 46 .056 .058 .060 .061 .063 .065 .067 .069 .071 .073 .075 47 .055 .057 .058 .060 .062 .064 .066 .067 .069 .071 .073 48 .054 .055 .057 .059 .061 .062 .064 .066 .068 .070 .071 49 .052 .054 .056 .058 .059 .061 .063 .065 .066 .068 .070 50 .051 .053 .055 .057 .058 .060 .062 .063 .065 .067 .069 80 83 84 86 88 90 93 94 96 98 100 .171 .176 .180 .184 .189 .193 .197 .201 .206 .210 .214 21 .163 .167 .171 .176 .180 .184 .188 .192 .196 .200 .204 22 .156 .160 .164 .168 .171 .175 .179 .183 .187 .191 .195 23 .149 .153 .157 .160 .164 .168 .171 .175 .179 .183 .186 24 .143 .146 .150 .154 .157 .161 .164 .168 .171 .175 .179 25 .137 .141 .144 .147 .151 .154 .158 .161 .165 .168 .171 26 .132 .135 .138 .142 .145 .148 .152 .155 .158 .162 .165 27 .127 .130 .133 .137 .140 .143 .146 .149 .152 .156 .159 28 .122 .126 .129 .132 .135 .138 .141 .144 .147 .150 .153 29 .118 .121 .124 .127 .130 .133 .136 .139 .142 .145 .148 .114 .117 .120 .123 .126 .129 .131 .134 .137 .140 .143 31 .111 .113 .116 .119 .122 .124 .127 .130 .133 .135 .138 32 .107 .110 .112 .115 .118 .121 .123 .126 .129 .131 .134 33 .104 .107 .109 .112 .114 .117 .119 .122 .125 .127 .130 34 .101 .103 .106 .108 .111 .113 .116 .118 .121 .124 .126 35 .098 .100 .103 .105 .108 .110 .113 .115 .118 .120 .122 36 .095 .098 .100 .102 .105 .107 .110 .112 .114 .117 .119 37 .093 .095 .097 .100 .102 .104 .107 .109 .111 114 .116 38 .090 .092 .095 .097 .099 .102 .104 .106 .108 .110 .113 39 .088 .090 .092 .095 .097 .099 .101 .103 .105 .107 .110 ^rk *u .086 .088 .090 .092 .094 .096 .099 .101 .103 .105 .107 41 .084 .086 .088 .090 .092 .094 .096 .098 .100 .102 .105 42 .082 .084 .086 .088 .090 .092 .094 .096 .098 .100 .102 43 .080 .082 .084 .086 .088 .090 .092 .094 .096 .098 .100 44 .078 .080 .082 .084 .086 .088 .090 .092 .094 .095 .097 45 .076 .078 .080 .082 .084 .086 .088 .090 .091 .093 .095 46 .075 .076 .078 .080 .082 .084 .086 .088 .089 .091 .093 47 .073 .075 .077 .078 .080 .082 .084 .086 .088 .089 .091 48 .071 .073 .075 .077 .079 .080 .082 .084 .086 .087 .089 49 .070 .072 .073 .075 .077 .079 .080 .082 .084 .086 .087 50 .069 .070 .072 .074 .075 .077 .079 .081 .082 .084 .086 51 .067 .069 .071 .072 .074 .076 .077 .079 .081 .082 .084 52 .066 .068 .069 .071 .073 .074 .076 .077 .079 .081 .082 53 .065 .066 .068 .070 .071 .073 .074 .076 .078 .079 .081 54 .063 .065 .067 .068 .070 .071 .073 .075 .076 .078 .079 55 .062 .064 .065 .067 .069 .070 .072 .073 .075 .076 .078 Pounds of Cotton Warp or Filling in one square yard. 137 No. of Picks per inch. yaru. lOO 102 104 106 108 110 113 116 118 130 30 .143 .146 .149 .151 .154 .157 .160 .163 .166 .169 .171 31 .138 .141 .144 .147 .149 .152 .155 .158 .160 .163 .166 32 .134 137 .139 .142 .145 .147 .150 .153 .155 .158 .161 33 .130 .133 .135 .138 .140 .143 .145 .148 .151 .153 .156 34 .126 .129 .131 .134 .136 .139 .141 .144 .146 .149 .151 35 !l22 .125 .127 .130 .132 !l35 .137 .140 .142 .144 .147 36 .119 .121 124 .126 .129 .131 .133 .136 .138 .140 .143 37 .116 .118 .120 .123 .125 .127 .130 .132 .134 .137 .139 38 .113 .115 .117 .120 .122 .124 .126 .129 .131 .133 .135 39 .110 .112 .114 .116 119 .121 .123 .125 .127 .130 .132 40 .107 .109 .111 .114 116 .118 .120 .122 .124 .126 .129 42 .102 .104 .106 .108 110 .112 .114 .116 .118 .120 .122 44 .097 .099 .101 .103 .105 .107 .109 .111 .113 .115 .117 46 .093 .095 .097 .099 .101 .102 .104 .106 .108 .110 .112 48 .089 .091 .093 .095 .096 .098 .100 .102 .104 .105 .107 50 .086 .087 .089 .091 .093 .094 .096 .098 .099 .101 .103 52 .082 084 086 087 089 .091 .092 .094 096 097 099 54 !079 '.081 !083 ;084 !086 !087 !089 *.090 ;092 ;094 !095 56 .077 .078 .080 .081 .083 .084 .086 .087 .089 .090 .092 58 .074 .075 .077 .078 .080 .081 .083 .084 .086 .087 .089 60 .071 .073 .074 .076 .077 .079 .080 .081 .083 .084 .086 62 .069 .071 .072 .073 .075 .076 .077 .079 .080 .082 .083 64 .067 .068 .070 .071 .072 .074 .075 .076 .078 .079 .080 66 .065 .066 .068 .069 .070 .071 .073 .074 .075 .077 .078 68 .063 .064 .066 .067 .068 .069 .071 .072 .073 .074 .076 70 .061 .062 .064 .065 .066 .067 .069 .070 .071 .072 .073 130 122 124 136 138 130 133 134 136 138 140 40 .129 .131 .133 .135 .137 .139 .141 .144 .146 .148 .150 42 .122 .124 .127 .129 .131 .133 .135 .137 .139 .141 143 44 .117 .119 .121 .123 .125 .127 .129 .131 .132 .134 .136 46 .112 .114 .116 .117 .119 .121 .123 .125 .127 .129 .130 48 .107 .109 .111 .112 .114 .116 .118 .120 .121 .123 .125 50 .103 .105 .106 .108 .110 .111 .113 .115 .117 .118 .120 52 .099 .101 .102 .104 .105 .107 .109 .110 .112 .114 .115 54 .095 .097 .098 .100 .102 .103 .105 .106 .108 109 .111 56 .092 .093 .095 .096 .098 .099 .101 .103 .104 .106 .107 58 .089 .090 .092 .093 .095 .096 .098 .099 .100 .102 .103 60 .086 .087 .089 .090 .091 .093 .094 .096 .097 .099 .100 62 .083 084 086 .087 088 .090 091 .093 .094 095 .097 64 .080 .082 !083 ]084 .086 '.087 .'088 ;o9o !091 !092 .094 66 .078 .079 .081 .082 .083 .084 .086 .087 .088 .090 .091 68 .076 .077 .078 .079 .081 .082 .083 .084 .086 .087 .088 70 .073 .075 .076 .077 .078 .080 .081 .082 .083 .084 .086 72 .071 .073 .074 .075 .076 .077 .079 .080 .081 .082 .083 74 .069 .071 .072 .073 .074 .075 .076 .078 .079 .080 .081 76 .068 .069 .070 .071 .072 .073 .074 .076 .077 .078 .079 78 .066 .067 .068 .069 .070 .071 .073 .074 .075 .076 .077 80 .064 .065 .066 .067 .069 .070 .071 .072 .073 .074 .075 140 14:2 144 146 148 150 153 154 156 158 160 50 .120 .122 .123 .125 .127 .129 .130 .132 .134 .135 .137 52 115 117 .119 .120 .122 .124 125 .127 .129 130 .132 54 '.111 ".113 !ll4 .116 .117 !ll9 !l21 .*122 !l24 ".125 .127 56 .107 .109 .110 .112 .113 .115 .116 .118 .119 .121 .122 58 .103 .105 .106 .108 .109 .111 .112 .114 .115 .117 .118 60 .100 .101 .103 .104 .106 .107 .109 .110 .111 .113 .114 65 .092 .094 .095 .096 .098 .099 .100 .102 .103 .104 .105 70 .086 .087 .088 .089 .091 .092 .093 .094 .096 .097 .098 75 .080 .081 .082 .083 .085 .086 .087 .088 .089 .090 .092 80 .075 .076 .077 .078 .079 .080 .081 .083 .084 .085 .086 85 .071 .072 073 .074 .075 .076 .077 .078 .079 .080 .081 160 162 164 166 168 170 173 174 176 178 180 60 .114 .116 .117 .119 .120 .121 .123 .124 .126 .127 .129 65 .105 .106 .108 .109 .111 .112 .113 .115 .116 .117 .119 70 .098 .099 .100 .102 .103 .104 .105 .107 .108 .109 .110 75 .092 .093 .094 .095 .096 .097 .098 .099 .101 .102 .103 80 .086 .087 .088 .089 .090 .091 .092 .093 .094 .095 .096 85 .081 .082 .083 .084 .085 .086 .087 .088 .089 090 .091 90 .076 .077 .078 .079 .080 .081 .082 .083 .084 .085 .086 95 1 .072 .073 .074 .075 .076 .076 .077 .078 .079 .080 .081 100 .069 .070 .070 .071 .072 .073 074 .075 .075 .076 .077 138 Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten hours. Picks per inch Picks per minute. 100 105 110 115 130 135 130 135 140 145 150 A\J 83.3 87.5 91.7 95.8 100.0 104.2 108.3 112.51116.7 120.8 125.0 22 79^5 83^3 87^1 90.9 94.7 98*5 102.3 1 AA 1 109^8 113*6 24 69^4 72^9 76.4 79.9 83.3 86.8 90.3 93.7 97.2 ioo!7 104^2 26 64!l 67!3 70I5 73.7 76.9 80.1 83^3 OD.O 89.7 92^9 96^2 28 59^5 62^5 65*5 68.5 71.4 74.4 77^4 80.4 83.3 86^3 89^3 55^6 58.3 6l!l 63^9 66.7 69.4 72.2 i o.u 77.8 80.6 83^3 32 52!l 54.7 57^3 59.9 62.5 65!l 67.7 / VJ.O 72.9 75.5 78.1 34 49^0 51.5 53.9 56.4 58.8 61.3 63!7 ftft 0 00. ftQ (X DO.'D 7l!l 73.5 36 46^3 48^6 50^9 53^2 55.6 57^9 6o!2 ftO K D4.0 67*1 69^4 38 43^9 46^1 48*2 50^4 52.6 54.8 57^0 Otf.Z ft1 A D±.4: 63.6 65.8 41^7 43^7 45.8 47^9 50.0 52.1 54^2 OD.O 00. 0 60.4 62.5 42 39!7 4l!7 43^7 45.6 47.6 49.6 51^6 f^Q ft 00. D i^r^ ft 00.0 57^5 59.5 44 37.9 39.8 41^7 43.6 45.5 47^3 49^2 o±.± f;q a Oo.U 54*9 56*.8 46 36^2 38^0 39*9 41.7 43.5 45*3 47.1 AO. Q 4:0. y OU. / 52.5 54^3 48 34^7 36^5 38^2 39.9 41.7 43.4 45^1 Aft Q AQ ft 4:0.0 50^3 52.1 KC\ OU 33^3 35*0 36^7 38.3 40.0 41^7 43^3 4:0. U 46.7 48.3 50.0 52 32*1 33^7 35^3 36.9 38.5 40.1 41.7 4:0.0 AA Q 46! 5 48^1 54 30*9 32*4 34^0 35.5 37.0 38^6 40.1 4:1. / 4:0. ^ 44.8 46.3 56 29^8 31^3 32I7 34.2 35.7 37.2 38^7 AC\ 0 A1 n 4:±. / 43.2 44^6 58 28!7 30^2 31.6 33.0 34.5 35.9 3714 00.0 AA 0 41.7 43.1 OU 27.8 29^2 30^6 31.9 33^3 34.7 36*1 0 / .0 00. y 40! 3 41^7 62 26^9 28^2 29.6 30.9 32.3 33.6 34^9 36.3 Q'7 ft 0 / .0 39.0 40^3 64 26^0 27.3 28!6 29.9 31^3 32^6 33*9 35.2 Qft R OD.O 37.8 39.1 66 25.3 26.5 27.8 29.0 30!3 31.6 32.8 34.1 O0.4: 36.6 37.9 68 24^5 25.7 27.0 28.2 29.4 30.6 3l!9 33.1 QA Q 04:..O 35.5 36^8 11/ 23^8 25.0 26!2 27.4 28.6 29^8 31.0 32.1 00 Q 0»j.O 34.5 35^7 79 23^1 24^3 25^5 26.6 27^8 28^9 30.1 31.3 Qf> A 33.6 34.7 7il # -* 22.5 23^6 24*8 25.9 27.0 28.2 29.3 30.4 Q1 0±.0 32.7 33.8 21.9 23^0 24.1 25.2 26.3 27.4 28.5 29.6 QA n oU. / 31.8 32.9 7S 21.4 22^4 23^5 24.6 25^6 26^7 27.8 28.8 31.0 32.1 oU 20.8 21*9 22.9 24.0 25^0 26.0 27.1 28.1 OQ 0 30I2 31.3 82 20.3 21^3 22^4 23.4 24^4 25^4 26.4 27.4 Oft F^ ZO.O 29*5 30^5 84 19.8 2o!8 21^8 22.8 23^8 24^8 25.8 26.8 0*7 ft 28.8 29^8 86 19^4 20^3 21^3 22.3 23^3 24*2 25.2 26.2 0*7 1 28.1 29^1 88 18*9 19^9 2o!8 21.8 22^7 23.7 24.6 25.6 Oft f; ZD.O 27^5 28^4 18.5 19^4 2o!4 21.3 22.2 23I1 24.1 25.0 OF^ Q 26. £ 27^8 92 18^1 19^0 19.9 20.8 21.7 22!6 23.6 24.5 •>f; a 26!s 27.2 94 17.7 18^6 19^5 20.4 21.3 22!2 23.0 23.9 OA ft 25*7 26!6 96 17!4 18*2 19^1 20.0 20.8 21.7 22.6 23.4 OA Q 25.2 26.0 98 lY.O 17^9 18^7 19.6 20.4 21^3 22.1 23.0 OQ ft 24.7 25^5 xoo 16!7 17.5 18^3 19.2 20! 0 20.8 21.7 22.5 OQ Q ZO.O 24! 2 25^0 102 16!3 17.2 18.0 18.8 19^6 20^4 21.2 22.1 00 Q 23^7 24^5 104 16.0 16.8 17^6 18.4 19.2 2o!o 20.8 21.6 00 A 23.2 24^0 106 15*7 16.5 17*3 18.1 18.9 19^7 20.4 21.2 00 A 22!8 23^6 108 15.4 16^2 17!o 17.7 18^5 19^3 20.1 20.8 01 A 22.4 23^1 1 1 rk X J.U 15^2 15^9 16^7 17.4 18.2 18.9 19.7 20.5 01 0 22!o 22.7 112 14.9 lo*.6 16^4 17.1 17.9 18.6 19.3 20.1 OA ft ZU.o 21^6 22.S 114 14^6 15^4 16^1 16.8 17.5 18.3 19.0 19.7 OA F^ 21.2 21I9 lift 14*4 15!l 15^8 16.5 17.2 isio 18.7 19.4 20.1 2o!8 21^6 1 4^1 14^8 15^5 16^2 16.9 17.7 18.4 19.1 19.8 20^5 21.2 ISO 13^9 14*6 15.3 16^0 16.7 17.4 18.1 18.7 19.4 20.1 2o!8 1 99 13^7 14.3 15,0 15.7 16.4 17.1 17.8 18.4 1 Q 1 19^8 20.4 1 9A 13^4 14.1 14.8 15.5 16*1 16^8 17.5 18.1 1 ft ft ±0.0 19.5 20.1 126 13^2 13^9 14^6 15.2 15^9 16!5 17.2 17.9 1 ft f; JLo.O 19^2 19.8 128 13^0 13^7 14^3 15.0 15.6 16*3 16.9 17.6 18.2 18^9 19^5 130 12^8 13^5 14^1 14^7 15.4 16^0 16.7 17.3 17.9 18^6 19.2 134 12^4 13!l 13^7 14.3 14 9 15^5 16.2 16.8 17.4 18^0 18 7 136 12!3 12!9 13*.5 14!l 14^7 15!3 15.9 16.5 17.2 17^8 18.4 140 11.9 12.5 13.1 13.7 14.3 14.9 15.5 16.1 16.7 17.3 17.9 144 11.6 12.2 12.7 13.3 13.9 14.5 15.0 15.6 16.2 16.8 17.4 146 11.4 12.0 12.6 13.1 13.7 14.3 14.8 15.4 16.0 16.6 17.1 150 11.1 11.7 12.2 12.8 13.3 13.9 14.4 15.0 15.6 16.1 16.7 154 10.8 11.4 11.9 12.4 13.0 13.5 14.1 14.6 15.2 15.7 16.2 156 10.7 11.2 11.8 12.3 12.8 13.4 13.9 14.4 15.0 15.5 16.0 160 10.4 10.9 11.5 12.0 12.5 13.0 13.5 14.1 14.6 15.1 15.6 164 10.2 10.7 11.2 11.7 12.2 12.7 13.2 13.7 14.2 14.7 15.2 166 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.6 13.1 13.5 14.1 14.6 15.1 170 9.8 10.3 10.8 11.3 11.8 12.3 12.7 13.2 13.7 14.2 14.7 174 9.6 10.1 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5 12.9 13.4 13.9 14.4 176 9.5 9.9 10.4 10.9 11.4 11.8 12.3 12.8 13.3 13.7 14.2 180 9.3 9.7 10.2 10.6 11.1 11.6 12.0 12.5 13.0 13.4 13.9 Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten hours. 139 Picks per inch. Picks per minute. 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 20 129.2 133.3 137.5 141.7 1 APi ft 14:0.0 1 PiA A lOU.U 1 PiA Q 104.Z 1 Pift Q lOO.o 1 AQ f; lOZ.O loo. 7 170.C 22 117.^ 121.21125.0 128.}; 1 QQ A lOZ.O 1 QA A 100.4 1 AA Q 14U.Z 1 AQ Q i4o.y 1 A7 7 14/. / 151.5 155.3 24 107.6 111 1 ±11.1 114:. O llo.l 1 Q1 Pi IZl.O 1 QPi A IZO.U 128 5 1 Q1 Q loi .y 1 QPi A 100.4 138. £ 142.4 26 99.4 1 no fi lU^.D 105 8 1 AQ A luy.u 1 1 Q Q 1 IZ.Z 115 4 118 € 1 Q1 ft IZl.O 1 QPi 4^ IZO.U 128.2 131.4 28 92.3 Q» Q 1 A1 Q 104 2 107 1 110 1 1 1 Q 1 1 lO.l 1 1 A 1 1 1 0 . 1 119. C 122. C 30 86.1 «ft Q OO. «7 Q1 7 al. / QA A 97 2 100 C 102 ^ 1 APi Pi lUO.O 1 Aft Q lUO.O 111 1 111.1 113.8 32 80.7 OO.O oo.y c5c5.0 Q1 1 y 1.1 QQ 7 yo. / QA J yo.4 QQ A yy.u 1 Al A lUl.O 104.2 106.8 34 76. C Tft A ou.y ftQ Q OO.O 85.8 88.2 90 7 93 1 QF^ A yo.o Qft A yo.u 100.5 36 71.8 7/1 1 1 •t.l 7A A 78.7 ftl A ol.U ftQ Q OO.O ftp; A OO.O ftft A OO.U QA Q yu.o 92.6 94.9 38 68.0 TA 9 / U.Z 7Q J_ 74.6 7A ft / O.o 7ft Q / o.y ftl 1 Ol.l ftQ Q OO.O ftpi Pi OO.O 87.7 89. S 40 64.6 DO. 1 68 7 7A ft 7Q Q / z.y 7)^ < o.u 77 1 / / .1 7Q Q < y.z ftl Q Ol.o ftQ Q Oo.o ftPi A 00.4 42 61.5 Do.O oo.o A7 F^ o / .o 69 4 71 A < 1.4 7Q A / 0.4 7Pi A / 0.4 77 A / / .4 7Q A 4 y.4 ftl Q Ol.o 44 58.7 du.d AQ O^.O 04:.4: 66 3 68 2 7A 1 4 U.l 7Q A / Z.U 7Q Q / O.y 7F; ft 4 O.O 77 7 4 4,4 46 56.2 oo.u oy.o Al A Ol.o 63 4 65*2 67 0 Aft ft OO.O 7A 7 1 U. / 7Q Fi / Z.O 7A Q / 4.0 48 53.8 OO.O Pi7 Q O / .o r^Q A oy.u 60 8 62 5 64 2 66 0 A7 7 O / . / AQ A oy.4 71 Q 4 JL.Z 50 51.7 Oo.o oo.u PiA 7 OO, / 58*3 6o!o Al 7 Ol. / AQ Q OO.O AF^ A OO.U AA 7 OO. / Aft Q OO.O 52 49.7 Ol.o P^Q Q 04.0 FiA 1 oo.l Pi7 7 O / . / PiQ Q oy.o AA Q ou.y AQ F^ OZ.O 64.1 65.7 54 47.8 49 4 PiA Q PiQ P; OZ.O F^A A 04:.U Pip; A OO.O F^7 1 O / .1 F^ft A OO.O AA Q OU.Z Al 7 Ol. / AQ Q Oo.o 56 46.1 47 6 49 1 PiA A OU.O RQ 1 OZ.l PiQ A OO.O FiPi 1 oo.l f;a Pi OO.O Pift A OO.U PiQ n oy.o 61.0 58 44.5 46 0 47 4 Aft ft FiA Q OU.O P^l 7 Ol. / PiQ Q OO.Z FiA A 04.0 PiA A OO.U Pi7 Pi o / .o Pift Q oo.y 60 43.1 44 4 45*8 A7 Q Aft A 4:0.0 50 0 51 4 PiQ ft OZ.O PiA Q 04.Z PiPi A OO.O PiA Q oo.y 62 41.7 43 0 44 4 Ap; 7 A7 A 4: / .U 48 4 AQ 7 4y. / Ol.l PiQ A OZ.4 PiQ ft OO.O PiF; 1 oo.l 64 40.4 4:1. / 43*0 AA Q ■44:. o 45 6 46 9 48 2 AQ K 4y.o PiA ft OU.O PiQ 1 OZ.l PiQ A Oo.4 66 39.1 40 4 A1 7 AQ Q 4:Z.y AA Q 4:4:. Z 45^5 46 7 Aft A 40.U AQ Q 4y.Z PiA Pi OU.O Pil ft Ol.o 68 38.0 AA A Al 7 4:1. / 42 9 44 1 45 3 46 6 A7 ft 4 / .O 49 0 FiA Q OU.Z 70 36.9 oo.l QQ Q oy.o AA Pi 4:U.O Al 7 41. / 42^9 44 0 af; q 40.Z AA A *0.4 A7 A 4 / .O Aft ft 40.0 72 35.9 Q7 n Qft Q QQ A oy.4 40 5 A^ 7 42 8 44 0 45 1 46 3 A7 Pi 4 / .O 74 34.9 oO.U Q7 Q Q» Q Oo.o 39.4 40.5 Al 7 4:1. / 42 8 AQ Q 4:0. y 45 0 AA Q 40.Z 76 34.0 oo.l QA Q 00.4 Q7 Q o / .O Qft A Oo.4 39 5 AA A 4U.O Al 7 41. i AQ ft 4Z.O AQQ 4o.y APi A 40.U 78 33.1 34 2 35 3 QA Q OO.O Q7 A O / >4 38*5 QQ Pi oy.o AA A 4U.O Al 7 41. / AQ 7 4Z. / AQ ft 40.0 80 32.3 OO.O 34 4 QF^ A 00.4: QA Pi OO.O Q7 Pi o / .O 38 5 QQ A oy.o AA A 4U.O Al 7 41. / AO 7 4Z. / 82 31.5 32 5 33 5 QA A o4.0 Qf; a OO.O 36 6 37 6 Qft A OO.O QQ A oy.o AA 7 4U. / Al 7 41. / 84 30.8 Q1 7 Ol. < 32 7 QQ 7 OO. / 34 7 35 7 36 6 Q7 7 Qft 7 oO. / QQ 7 oy. / AA 7 4U. / 86 30.0 31 0 32*0 QQ Q oz.y QQ Q oo.y 34 9 35*8 QA ft OO.O Q7 ft o / .O Qft ft OO.O QQ 7 oy. / 88 29.4 3Q*3 31.3 QQ Q 33 1 34^1 35 0 QA A OO.U QA Q oo.y Q7 Q o # .y Qft ft OO.O 90 28.7 QQ A ^«7.0 QA A ou.o Q1 p; Ol.o 32 4 33.3 34 3 QPi Q OO.Z 36 1 Q7 A O / .U Qft A OO.U 92 28.1 9Q A QQ Q QA ft OU.O Q1 7 Ol. / 32.6 33*5 34 4 QPi Q OO.O QA Q OO.Z Q7 1 O / .1 94 27.5 ^o.4 29 3 QA 1 oU.l 31 0 31 .9 32.8 33 7 34 6 qf; f; OO.O QA Q OO.O 96 26.9 27 8 28*6 QQ zy.o 30 4 31.3 32.1 QQA OO.U 33 9 QA 7 04. / qf; a OO.O 98 26.4 27 2 281 Qft Q Zo.y QQ ft zy.o QA A OU.O Q1 Pi Ol.o QQ Q oZ.O QQ Q oo.Z QA A o4.U QA Q o4,y 100 25.8 7 ZO. / Q7 Qft Q QQ Q QA A ou.u QA ft OU.O Q1 7 ol. / QQ Pi oZ.O QQ Q OO.O QA A o4.4 102 25.3 26 1 27 0 Q7 ft Qft A Zo.O QQ A zy.4 QA Q OU.Z Q1 A ol.U Q1 Q oi.y QQ 7 oZ. / QQ K OO.O 104 24.8 25^6 26 4 Q7 Q Qft A ZO.U 28 8 29 6 QA A OU.4 Q1 Q Ol.o QQ 1 oZ.l QQ Q 106 24.4 on o Qp; Q QA 7 ZO. < Q7 Pi Z / .O 28 3 29 1 QQ Q zy.y QA 7 oU. / Q1 A ol.4 QQ 9 108 23.9 OA. 7 QF^ p; ^o.o QA Q Q7 A Z / .U 27 8 28 5 QQ Q zy.o QA 1 OU.l QA Q ou.y Q1 A Ol.o 110 23.5 O QPi A qf; ft ZO.o 26 5 27 3 28 0 Qft ft zo.o QQ Pi zy.o QA Q OU.O Q1 1 Ol.l 112 23.1 zo.o QA A QPi Q ZO.O QA A ZO.U 26 8 Q7 Pi Qft Q zo.o QQ A zy.u QQ ft zy.o QA Fi OU.O 114 22.7 QQ A. QA 1 24.9 QPi A ZO.O QA Q ZO.o Q7 A Z / .U Q7 ft Qft Fi ZO.O QQ Q QA A OU.U 116 22.3 QQ n QQ 7 24:.4: QPi 1 ZO.l QPi Q zo.y QA A ZO.O Q7 Q Zi 4 .O Qft A ZO.U Qft 7 zo. / 9Q Fi 118 21.9 22 6 QQ Q ^O.O 24.0 QA 7 Z4. / QPi A Z0.4 QA 1 ZO.l QA ft ZO.O Q7 Fi Z 4 .O Qft Q 9Q A zy.u 120 21.5 22 2 22 9 QQ A QA Q Z4.0 QPi A ZO.U QPi 7 ZO. / QA /I Z0.4 Q7 1 Z / .1 Q7 ft Z / .O 9ft p; zo.o 122 21.2 Q1 Q QQ K QQ Q ZO. J QQ Q zo.y QA A Z4.0 Qp; Q ZO.o QA A ZO.U QA A ZO.O Q7 Q z / ,o 9ft A ZO.U 124 20.8 Q1 Pi ^l.O OO O QQ ft QQ Pi ZO.O QA Q 24 9 QPi Pi ZO.O QA Q QA Q zo.y 97 A Z / .O 126 20.5 21.2 21.8 QQ Pi QQ 1 ZO.l QQ ft ZO.O 24 5 QPi 1 ZO.l qf; ft zo.o QA Pi ZO.O 97 1 Z / .1 128 20.2 20.8 21.5 OO 1 QQ ft QQ A Z0.4 24 1 QA 7 Z4. / 25 4 QA zo.u 9A T ZO. / 130 19.9 20.5 21.2 Q1 ft QQ /I QQ 1 ZO.l QQ 7 Zo. / 24.4 qf; a zo.u QPi A zo.o 9A Q ZO.O 134 19.3 19.9 20.5 Q1 1 Zl.l Q1 ft Zl.O QQ A QQ A Zo.U QQ A Zo.O QA Q Z4.0 QA Q Z4.y 9F; Fi ZO.O 136 19.0 19.6 20.2 20.8 21.4 22.1 22.7 23.3 23.9 24.5 25.1 140 18.5 19.0 19.6 20.2 20.8 21.4 22.0 22.6 23.2 23.8 24.4 144 17.9 18.5 19.1 19.7 20.3 20.8 21.4 22.0 22.6 23.1 23.7 146 17.7 18.3 18.8 19.4 20.0 20.5 21.1 21.7 22.3 22.8 23.4 150 17.2 17.8 18.3 18.9 19.4 20.0 20.6 21.1 21.7 22.2 22.8 154 16.8 17.3 17.9 18.4 18.9 19.5 20.0 20.6 21.1 21.6 22.2 156 16.6 17.1 17.6 18.2 18.7 19.2 19.8 20.3 20.8 21.4 21.9 160 16.1 16.7 17.2 17.7 18.2 18.7 19.3 19.8 20.3 20.8 21.4 164 15.8 16.3 16.8 17.3 17.8 18.3 18.8 19.3 19.8 20.3 20.8 166 15.6 16.1 16.6 17.1 17.6 18.1 18.6 19.1 19.6 20.1 20.6 170 15.2 15.7 16.2 16.7 17.2 17.6 18.1 18.6 19.1 19.6 20.1 174 14.8 15.4 15.8 16.3 16.8 17.2 17.7 18.2 18.7 19.2 19.6 176 14.7 15.2 15.6 16.1 16.6 17.0 17.5 18.0 18.5 18.9 19.4 180 14.4 14.8 15.3 15.7 16.2 16.7 17.1 17.6 18.1 18.5 19.0 140 CLOTH CONSTRUCTION TABLES. REED TABLE. PLAIN CLOTH. FOR DRILLS. Ends Inch. Ends Cloth. Dents per Two Ends per Reed Dent. Total Width of Spread. Dents in Three Ends per Reed Total Width of Reed or Inches Spread. 32 1176 14.67 576 39.25 10.16 392 38.58 O A 1248 15.59 612 39.25 10.79 416 38.55 36 1320 16.51 648 39.25 11.42 440 38.52 38 1392 17.42 684 39.25 12.06 464 38.47 40 1464 18.34 720 39.25 12.69 488 38.47 42 1536 19.26 756 39.25 13.33 512 38.40 A A 44 1608 20.17 792 39.25 13.96 536 38.37 46 1680 21.09 828 39.25 14.60 560 38.35 48 1752 22.01 864 39.25 15.23 584 38.34 50 1824 22.93 900 39.25 15.87 608 38.33 52 1896 23.85 936 39.25 16.50 632 38.32 04 24.77 972 39.25 17.14 656 38.27 56 2040 25.68 1008 39.25 17.77 680 38.26 58 2112 26.60 1044 39.25 18.41 704 38.24 60 2184 27.51 1080 39.25 19.04 728 38.23 62 2256 28.43 1116 39.25 19.68 752 38.20 d4 29.35 1152 39.25 20.32 776 38.19 66 2400 30.22 1188 39.25 20.95 800 38.18 68 2472 31.18 1224 39.25 21.58 824 38.18 70 2544 32.10 1260 39.25 22.22 848 38.17 72 2616 33.02 1296 39.25 22.85 872 38.16 /4 33.94 1332 39.25 23.49 896 38.14 76 2760 34.85 1368 39.25 24.12 920 38.14 78 2832 35.77 1404 39.25 24.76 944 38.13 80 2904 36.69 1440 39.25 25.39 968 38.12 82 2976 37.60 1476 39.25 26.03 992 38.12 84 3048 38.52 1512 39.25 26.66 1016 38.12 86 3120 39.44 1548 39.25 27.30 1040 38.09 88 3192 40.35 1584 39.25 27.94 1064 38.08 90 3264 41.27 1620 39.25 28.58 1088 38.07 92 3336 42.19 1656 39.25 29.22 1112 38.06 94 3408 43.11 1692 39.25 29.86 1136 38.05 96 3480 44.02 1728 39.25 30.50 1160 38.03 98 3552 44.92 1764 39.25 31.14 1184 38.02 100 3624 1 45.85 1800 39.25 ( 31.78 1208 38.00 This table is made out for cloth 36'' wide — all other widths of cloth, proportion must be made. Twenty-four ends are allowed in every case for selvage. For two harness plain, eyes on each harness = Total dents. For three harness drill, eyes on each harness = Total dents. CLOTH CONSTRUCTION TABLES. 141 o I -YAIIlb3 \%%%% ^iSil '^^iiB ^iSBS ?S2I2S §Sggg SggSS lliiiliilllilliiiill ^ lliiillllllliiiiliii ft o o ^SccSx S'NC?t3^ ogco^' ^ -vAinba o o iiilliiiiiiiiiiiilii 2?4 , ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ iii^i i^ii^ I sg^ j 88SSg gg^?^: ggigg IMMM iiISS iiiii Sills gog ggsss ^g^i^ gigggg ggggg 142 CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. The following rules and tables are made possible by the system of numbering cotton yarns in this country. This system establishes as a unit : One pound of yarn measuring 840 yards, or one hank, is number 1 ; and further it provides that the yarn number, or count, is an indication of the number of hanks in one pound avoirdupois. The factors entering into cloth calculations are six in number, viz : Width; Sley, or warp threads per inch; Picks, or filling threads per inch; Number, or count of warp yarn; Number, or count of filling yarn; Weight of cloth; this weight may be in yards per pound, ounces per yard, or pounds per yard expressed decimally. The following tables are intended to enable any person having given the width and four of the other elements of a piece of cloth, to find the sixth by a simple calculation ; also to construct a piece of cloth of any required width, weight, sley and picks. Allowance has been made in the tables for contraction of warp and filling in the process of weaving and for the sizing of the warp. The tables show print cloth 28 inches wide, and sheetings, drills, etc., 32, 36, 40, 54 and 64 inches wide. Other widths of print cloth construction may be figured from the 28 inch column, and other widths of sheetings, etc. , from either of the other columns. The examples illustrating the several rules are, for the sake of uniformity, all based upon standard 28 inch print cloth. The makeup of such cloth is. Having given the width, sley, picks, filling number and weight in yards per pound, to find the warp number required: Width Sley 28 inches. Picks = Warp number = Filling number = Weight = 1 yard weighs 64 64 28^ 36^ 7 yards per lb. .142857 lbs. FIRST. CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 143 Rule. Divide the constant for sley by the weight of warp in one yard in pounds ; the quotient will be the warp number. Example. Opposite 64, the number of picks in 28 inch column, find constant for picks — 2.25. Divide 2.25 by 36, the filling number = .0625, the weight of filling in decimal fraction of one pound. From the weight of one yard of cloth — .142857 Subtract the weight of filling in one yard = .06250 Leaves the weight of warp in one yard = . 080357 Opposite the sley in 28 inch column find the constant for sley 2.25. Divide 2.25 by .080357, the weight of warp, and the quotient is 28 or the warp yarn number required. SECOND. Having given the width, sley, picks, warp number and weight of one yard of cloth, to find the filling number required : Rule. Divide the constant for picks by the weight of filling in pounds in one yard ; the quotient will be the filling number. Example. Opposite 64 picks in 28 inch column find constant for sley = 2.25. Divide 2.25 by .0625, the weight of filling in one yard of cloth as found in first problem and the quotient is 36, the filling number. THIRD. Having given the width, picks, warp number, filling number and weight of one yard of cloth, to find the sley : Rule. Divide the constant for picks by the filling number to find the weight of filling in one yard of cloth. From the weight of one yard of cloth deduct the weight of filling ; the remainder equals weight of warp in one yard ; multiply this weight by the warp number to find the sley constant. Opposite the sley constant in 28 inch column will be the sley required. Example. Opposite 64 the number of picks in 28 inch column find pick constant 2.25. Divide by 36 the filling number equals .0625 the weight of filling. From the weight of one yard of 144 CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. cloth .142857 subtract ,0625, the weight of filling in one yard. The remainder .080357 equals weight of warp in one yard ; multiply by 28, the warp number, gives the sley constant 2.25. Opposite 2.25 in 28 inch column is found 64, the sley required. FOURTH. Given the width, sley, warp number, filling number and weight of one yard of cloth, to find the required picks : Rule. Divide the sley constant by the warp number to obtain the weight of warp in one yard of cloth. Substract weight of warp from weight of one yard of cloth to obtain weight of filling ; multiply weight of filling by filling number to obtain constant for picks. Opposite constant for picks will be found the required number of picks. Example. Opposite 64 the sley under 28 inch find sley constant 2.25. Divided by 28, the warp number, equals .080357 the weight of warp in one yard of cloth. From total weight of one yard of cloth .142857 Subtract weight of warp .080357 Leaves weight of filling .0625 Multiply by the filling number 36 equals 2.25 the filling constant. Opposite 2.25 in 28 inch column is 64, the number of picks required. FIFTH. Given the width, sley, picks, warp number, and filling number, to find the w^eight of one yard of cloth, the weight each of warp and filling and the number of yards in one pound of cloth : Rule. Divide the sley constant by the warp number to find the weight of warp. Divide the filling constant by the filling number to find the weight of filling. Add the two for total weight of one yard. Divide one pound by the fractional weight of one yard and the quotient is the number of yards per pound. Example. Opposite the sley 64 in 28 inch column, find the sley constant 2.25; divided by warp number 28 gives weight of warp .080357. Opposite the number of picks 64 find pick constant 2.25. CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 145 Divided by the filling number equals weight of filling in one yard of cloth .0625. Add .080357, weight of warp to .0625, weight of filling equals .142857, weight of one yard of cloth. One pound divided by weight of one yard of cloth .142857, equals 7, the number of yards to the pound. To find the weight of one yard in ounces multiply .142857, the weight of one yard in pounds, by 16 the number of ounces in one pound, equals 2.285712 ounces in one yard, or divide 16 by 7, the yards per pound, gives the same result. SIXTH. Given the width, sley and warp number, to find the weight of warp yarn in one yard of cloth : Rule. Divide the constant for sley by the warp number and the quotient will be the weight of warp in one yard of cloth expressed in decimal fraction of one pound. Example. Opposite the sley 64 find the sley constant 2.25. Divided by 28, the warp number, equals .080357 lbs., the weight of warp in one yard of cloth. SEVENTH. Given the width, picks and filling number, to find the weight of filling in one yard of cloth : Rule. Divide the constant for picks by the filling number and the quotient will be the weight of filling in one yard of cloth expressed in decimal fraction of one pound. Example. Opposite the picks 64 find the constant for picks 2.25. Divided by 36, the filling number, equals .0625 lbs., the weight of filling in one yard of cloth. EIGHTH. Given the weight of both warp and filling in one yard of cloth as found by problems six and seven, to find the weight of one yard of cloth : Rule. Add the weight of warp to the weight of filling and their sum equals the weight of one yard of cloth. One divided by this sum equals the number of yards to the pound. 146 CLOTH CONSTRUCTION, Example. Weight of warp, problem six, .080357 Weight of filling, problem seven, .0625 Weight of one yard of cloth, .142857 1. = 7 the number of yards per pound. .142857 NINTH. Given the width, sley and weight of warp yarn, to find the number : Rule. Divide the sley constant by the weight of warp in one yard of cloth ; the quotient will be the warp number. Example. Opposite the sley 64 find sley constant 2.25. Divide 2.25 by weight of warp yarn in one yard, .080357 lbs., equals 28, the number. TENTH. Given the width, picks and weight of filling yarn, to find the number. Rule. Divide the constant for filling by the weight of filling in one yard of cloth ; the quotient will be the filling number. Example. Opposite the picks 64 find constant for picks, 2.25. Divide 2.25 by weight of filling in one yard of cloth .0625 lbs., equals 36, the number. ELEVENTH. Given the width, weight of warp and warp number, to find the sley required. Rule. Multiply the weight of warp yarn in one yard of cloth by the warp number ; the product will be the sley constant. Opposite the sley constant the actual sley required will be found in the proper column^ Example. Width 28 inches; .080357 lbs, the weight of warp multiplied by 28, the number gives 2.25 the sley constant. Opposite 2.25 in 28 inch column is 64 the required sley. TWELFTH. Given the width, weight of filling yarn and filling number, to find the picks per inch. Rule. Multiply the weight of filling yarn by the filling CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 147 number ; the product will be the constant for filling. Opposite filling constant the number of picks required will be found in the proper column. Example. Width 28 inches ; weight of filling yarn .0625 lbs. multiplied by 36, the filling number, equals 2.25 the filling constant. Opposite 2.25 in 28 inch column is 64, the number of picks per inch. THIRTEENTH. Given the width, sley, picks and weight, to find the average number of yarn. Rule. Add the sley constant to the pick constant and multiply by the number of yards per pound. Example. Opposite sley in 28 inch column find sley constant 2.25. Opposite picks per inch find pick constant 2.25 ; these added equal 4.50. Multiply by 7 the number of yards per pound equals 31.5, the average number required. SUMMARY. 1. Sley constant means the figure found in table under the given width and opposite the actual sley. 2. Filling constant means the figure found in table under the given width and opposite the actual picks per inch. 3. Sley constant divided by warp yarn number equals weight of warp per yard in pounds. 4. Pick constant divided by filling yarn number equals weight of filling per yard in pounds. 5. Sley constant divided by weight of warp in one yard of cloth equals warp yarn number. 6. Pick constant divided by weight of filling in one yard of cloth equals filling yarn number. 7. Warp yarn number multiplied by weight of warp in one yard equals sley constant. 8. Filling yarn number multiplied by weight of filling in one yard equals filling constant. 9. Warp constant plus filling constant multiplied by yards per pound equals average numbers of yarn in cloth. 10. As stated at the opening of this article, allowances for contraction of warp and filling and for sizing of the warp are covered by the figures in the tables of sley and pick constants. 148 CLOTH CONSTRUCTION, CONSTANTS FOR SLEY OR PICKS, WITH ALLOWANCES MADE FOR CONTRACTION AND SIZING. Sley OR Picks. Print Cloth, Etc. Sheetings, Shirtings, Drills, Twills, Etc. 28 Inch 32 Inch 36 Inch 40 Inch 54 Inch 64 Inch 1 .03516 .04280 .04815 .0535 .07222 .08560 2 .07031 .08560 .09630 .1070 . 14445 .17120 3 .10547 .12840 .14445 .1605 .21667 .25680 4 .14062 .17120 .19260 .2140 .28890 .34240 5 .17578 .21400 .24075 .2675 .36112 .42800 6 .21094 .25680 .28890 .3210 .43335 .51360 7 .24609 .29960 .33705 .3745 .50557 .59920 8 .28125 .34240 .38520 .4280 .57780 .68480 9 .31641 .38520 .43335 .4815 .65002 .77040 10 .35156 .42800 .48150 .5350 .72225 .85600 11 .38672 .47080 .52965 .5885 .79447 .94160 12 .42187 .51360 .57780 .6420 .86670 1.02720 13 .45703 .55640 .62595 .6955 .93892 1.11280 14 .49219 .59920 .67410 .7490 1.01115 1.19840 15 .52734 .64200 .72225 .8025 1.08337 1.28400 16 .56250 .68480 .77040 .8560 1.15560 1.36960 17 .59766 .72760 .81855 .9095 1.22782 1.45520 18 .63281 .77040 .86670 .9630 1.30005 1.54080 19 .66797 .81320 .91485 1.0165 1.37227 1.62640 20 .70312 .85600 .96300 1.0700 1.44450 1.71200 21 .73828 ,89880 1.01115 1.1235 1.51672 1.79760 22 .77344 .94160 1.05930 1.1770 1.58895 1.88320 23 .80859 .98440 1.10745 1.2305 1.66117 1.96880 24 .84375 1.02720 1.15560 1.2840 1.73340 2.05440 25 .87890 1.07000 1.20375 1.3375 1.80562 2. 14000 26 .91406 1.11280 1.25190 1.3910 1.87785 2.22560 27 .94922 1.15560 1.30005 1.4445 1.95007 2.31120 28 .98437 1.19840 1.34820 1.4980 2.02230 2.39680 29 1.01953 1.24120 1.39635 1.5515 2.09452 2.48240 30 1.05469 1.28400 1.44450 1.6050 2.16675 2.56800 31 1.08984 1.32680 1.49265 1.6585 2.23897 2.65360 32 1.12500 1.36960 1.54080 1.7120 2.31120 2.73920 33 1.16016 1.41240 1.58895 1.7655 2.38342 2.82480 34 1.19531 1.45520 1.63710 1.8190 2.45565 2.91040 35 1.23047 1.49800 1.68525 1.8725 2.52787 2.99600 36 1.26562 1.54080 1.73340 1.9260 2.60010 3.08160 37 1.30078 1.58360 1.78155 1.9795 2.67232 3.16720 38 1.33593 1.62640 1.82970 2.0330 2.74455 3.25280 39 1.37109 1.66920 1.87785 2 0865 2.81677 3.33840 40 1.40625 1.71200 1.92600 2.1400 2.88900 3.42400 41 1.44141 11.75480 1.97415 2.1935 2.96122 3.50960 42 1.47656 1.79760 2.02230 2.2470 3.03345 3.59520 43 1.51172 1.84040 2.07045 2.3005 3.10567 3.68080 44 1.54687 \ 1.88320 2.11860 2.3540 3.17790 3.76640 45 1.58203 1.92600 2.16675 2.4075 3.25012 3.85200 46 1.61718 1.96880 2.21490 2.4610 3.32235 3.93760 47 1.65234 2.01160 2.26305 2.5145 3.39457 4.02320 48 1.68750 2.05440 2.31120 2.5680 3.46680 4.10880 49 1.72265 2.09720 2.35935 2.6215 3.53902 4.19440 50 1.75781 2.14000 2.40750 2.6750 3.61125 4.28000 CLOTH CONSTRUCTION, 149 CONSTANTS FOR SLEY OR PICKS, WITH ALLOWANCES MADE FOR CONTRACTION AND SIZING. Sley i; Priut Cioth, Etc. Sheetings, Shirtings, Drills. Twills, Etc. OR Picks. 28 Inch 32 Inch 36 Inch 40 Inch 54 Inch 64 Inch 51 1.79^97 i 12.18280 2.45565 2.7285 3.68347 4.36560 52 1.8Z8iZ i 2.22560 2.50380 2.7820 3.75570 4.45120 53 i.8DoZ8 2.26840 2.55195 2.8355 3.82792 4.53680 54 1.89843 2.31120 2.60010 2.8890 3.90015 4.62240 55 1 AOOCTA 2.35400 2.64825 2.9425 3.97237 4.70800 56 l.yb8 ^ 40 41 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ' 15" 16' 17' 18" 19' 20' 21* 22* 23' 24' 25' 26' 27" 28" 29' 30' 31 32' 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 32, .5 30. 29, .5 .5 .5 .5 5 5 5 5 22, 21, 21, 21, 21 21 20, ,5120. 20. ,5 20. 20. 5 20. 20. 19. 19. 19. 19. 19. 19, 19, 19j 18: 18. 18, 18.' 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, ,0412,32.2557 ,2803 30.4948 .0309 29.2454 .0618 28.2763 .2700 27.4845 .6005 26.8150 .0206)26.2351 .5091 125.7236 .0515 25.2660 .6376:24.8501 .2597i24.4742 .9121124.1266 ,5902,23.8047 .2906 23.5051 .0103,23.2248 ,7470 22.9615 .4988'22.7133 .2640; 22.4785 .0412,22.2.557 .8293 22.0438 .6273:21.8418 .4:342 21.6487 ,2494121.4639 .0721 21.2866 .9018;21.1163 .'379 20.9524 .5799:20.7944 ,4275 20.6420 ,2803 20.4948 .1379,20.3524 .0000 20.2145 .8664;20.0809 .7367119.9512 .610819.8253 .4885 19.7030 .2795 19.4940 ,2537119.4682 .1409; 19.3554 ,0309119.2454 ,9237 19.1382 ,8190119.0335 ,7068 18.9313 .6170 18.8315 .5194118.7339 ,4239:18.6384 ,3305118.5450 .2391 18.4536 .1495118.3640, ,0618 18.2763 .9758,18.1903 .8915 18.1060 .8017! 13.0162 .7276 17.9421 .6479,17.8624 .5696 17.7841 .4928:17.7073 17, 17, 17. 17. 17. 16. 16, 16, ,5 16, 16, 516, 16, 516. 16. .516. 16. .516. 16. ,516, 16, ,516, 116, 17.6317 17.5575 17.4845 17.4127 17.3421 17.2726 17.2042 17.1369 17.0706 17.0053 16.9409 16.8775 16.8150 16.7534 ,4782 16.6927 1183 16.6328 .3592:16.57.37 .3009 16.51.54 .2434 16.4579 .1866 16.4011 .1306 16.3451 .0752 16.2897 .0206 16.2351 .4172 .3430 .2700 1982 1276 ,0581 ,9897 .9224 .8581 .7908 .7264 .6630 .6005 .5389 43 32.4650 30.7041 29.4547 28.4856 27.6936 27.0243 26.4444: 25.9329 25.4753 25.0614 24.6845 24.3349 24.0140 23.7144 23.4341 23. r 22.9226 22.6878 22.4650 22.2531 22.0511 21.8580 21.6732 21. 21.3256 21.1617 21.0037 20.8513 20.7001 20.5617 20.4238 20.2902 20.1605 20.0346 19.9123 19.7033 19 6775 19.5647 19.4547 19.3475 19.2428 19.1406 19.0408 18.9432 18.8477 18.7543 18.6629 ; 18. 57:3:3 18.4856 18.3996 18.3153 18.2255 18.1514 18.0717 17.9934 17.9166 17.8410 17.7668 17.6938 17.6220 17.5514 17.4819 17.4135 17.3462 17.2799 17.2146 17.1502 17.0868 17.0243 16.9627 16.9020 16.8421 16.7830 16.72471 16.6672 16.6104; 16.5344: 16.4990 16.4444 43 44 32.6694 32, 30.908531, 29.6591 29, 28.6900 28, 27.8982 28, 27.2287 27, 26.6488 26, 26.1373 26, 25.6797:25, 25. 2658 '25, 24. 8879, 25, 24.5403 24 24. 2184! 24, 23.9188 24 23.6385,23. 23.3752 23. 23.1270 23. 22.8922 23. 22.6694 22. 22.4575 22. 22.2553 22. 22.0624 22, 21.8776!22. 21.7003 21. 45 46 1.8691,33.0643 33.2552 ..1082 31.3034:31.4943 ).8588 30.0540:30.2449 .8897:29.0849 29.2758 28.4840 .8145 47 48 .33.6248 31.8639 30.6145 1.0979,28.2931 .4284 27.6236 1.8485 27.0437 ).3370 26.5322 i.8794 26.0746 i. 4655 25.6607 )876:25.2828 .. ;400!24.9352,_ L4181 24.6133 24.8042 ^.1185 24.3137:24.5046 21.5300 21.3661 21.2081 21.0557 20.9085 20.7661 20.6282 20.4946 20.3649 20.2390,20, 20.1167 20, 19. 9077 1 20. 20. 19.7691119. 19.6591 19. 19.5519119. 24.2243 24.4111 !.8382 24.0334 1.5749:23.7701 ,3267 23.5219 .0919 23.2871 .8691123.0643 ,6572:22.8524 ,4552 22.6504 ,2621:22.4573 0773,22.2725 .9000,22.0952 .7297|21.9249|.....^ .5658,21.7610 21.9519 .4078:21.6030 21.7939 .2554 21.4506 21.6415 1082 21.3034 21.4943 .9658 21.1610 21.3519 8279|21.0231 6943 20.8895 5646:20.7598 33.4420 31.6811 30.4317 29.4626 29.6454 28.6708:28.8536 28.0013 28.1841 27.2346 27.4214 27.6042 26.7231 126.9099:27.0927 26.2655 26.4523 26.6351 26.0384 26.2212 25.6605 25.3129 24.9910 24.6914 25.8516 25.4737 25.1261 23.9610 23.7128 23,4780 23.2552 23.0433 22.8413 22.6482 22.4634 22.2861 22.1158 ,4387 ,3164 ,1074 20.6339 20.5116 20.3026 20.2768 9688 20.1640 8588:20.0540 7516 19.9468 21.2140 21.0804 20.950; 20.8248 20.7025|20.8893:21.O721 20.4935i20.6803 20.8631 21.0422 19.44' 19.3450 19.2452 19.1476 19.0521 18.9587 18.8673 18.7777 18.6900 18.6040 18.5197 18.4299 18.3558 18.2761 18.1978 18.1210 18.0454 17.9712 17.8982 17.8264 17.7558 17.6863 17.6179 17.5506 17.4843 17.4190 17.3546 17.2912 17.2287 17.1671 17.1064 17.0465 16.9874 16.9291 16.8716 16.8148 16.7588 16.7034 16.6488 .6469 5447 4449 3473 2518 1584 0670 9774 ,803 194 6296 5555 4758 ,3975 3207 ,2451 1709 ,0979 0261 ,9555 .8176 .7503 .6840 .6187 19.8421 19.7399 19.6401 19.5425 19.4470 19.3536 19.2622 19.1726 19.0849 18.9989 18.9146 18.8248 18.7507 18.6710 18.5927 18.5159 24.1478 23.8996 23.6648 23.4420 23.2301 23.0281 22.8350 22.6502 22.4729 22.3026 22.1387 21.9807 21.8283 21.6811 25.8433 25.495 25.1738 24.8742 24.5939 24.3306 24.0824 23.8476 23.6248 23.4129 23.2109 23.0178 22.8330 22.6557 22.4854 22.1635 22.0111 ... 21.8639 21.5387 21.7215 21.9006 21.4008:21.5836 21.7627 21.2672 21.4500 21.6291 21.1375:21.3203 21.4994 21.0116 21.1944 21.3735 21.2512 20.467 20.3549 20.2449 20.1377 20.0330 19.9308 19.8310 19.7334 19.6379 19.5445 19.4531 19.3635 19.2758 19.1898, 49 33.8039 32.0430 30.7936 29.8245 29.0327 28.3632 27.7833 „..2718 26.8142 26.4003 26.0224 25.6748 25.3529 25.0533 24.7730 24.5097 24.2615 24.0267 23.8039 23.5920 23.3900 23.196.9 23.0121 22.8348 22.6645 22.3215 22.5006 22.3426 22.1902 22.0430 20.6545 20.8373 21.0164 20.5417 120.7245 20.9036 20.4317:20.6145 20.7936 20.3245 20.5073 20.6864 20.2198 20.4026 20.1176 20.3004 20.0178 20.2006 19.9202 20.1030 19.8247 20.0075 19.731319.9141 19.6399 19.8227 19.550319.7331 19.1055 19.0157 18.9416 18.8619 18.7836 18.7068, 18.4403 18.6312 18.8180 18.3661 18.5570 18.7438 18.2931 18.4840 18.2213;18.4122 18.150718.3416 18.0812,18.2721 18.0128118.2037 17.9455,18.1364 17.8792 18.0701 17.8139,18.0048 .5543 17.7495 17.9404 17.6861 17.8770 19.2923 19.2025 19.1284 19.0487 18.9704 18. 18.6708 18.5990 18.5284 18.4589 20.5817 20.4795 20.3797 20.2821 20.1866 20.0932 20.0018 19.9122 19.8245 19.7385 19.6542 19.5644 19.4903 19.4406 19.3323 19.2555 19.1799 19.1057 19.0327 18.9609 19.4626 19.6454 19.3766 19.5594 19.4751 19.3853 19.3112 19.2315 19.1532 19.0764 19.0008 18.9266 18.8536 18.7818 18.7112 18.8903 18.6417 18.8208 18.3905 18.5733 18.7524 18.3232 18.5060 18.6851 18.2569 18.4397 18.6188 18.1916 18.374418.5537 18.1272,18.3100 18.4891 .-.czw x,.uou. ...oi.v 18.0638 18.2466 18.4257 .4284 17.6236'17.8145,18.001318.1841!18.3632 .3668 17.5620' 17.7529 17.939718.122518.3016 .3061 17.5013 17.6922 : 17.8790| 18.0618 18.2409 ,2462 17.4414 17.6323 17.8191 18.0019 18.1810 1871 17.3823 17.5732 17.7600 17.9428 18.1219 .1288 17.3240 17.5149 17.7017 17.884518.0636 .071317.2665 17.4574 17.6442 17.8270 18.0061 .0145i 17.2097 17.4006 17.5874 17.7702 17.9493 .958517.1537 17.3446 17.5.314 17.7142 17.89.33 .90.311 17.0983 17.2892 17.4760 17.8588 17.8.379 .8485 17.0437 17.2346 17.4214 17.6042 17.7833 CLOTH STRUCTURE. 159 .5 .5 SLEY OR PICKS. 60 12 is' 14 15' 16 17' 18 19* 20 21 ■ 22 23* 24 25* 26 27* .5 .5 28 29" 30* 31* 32* 33* 34* 35* 86*' 37*" 39 40*' 61 33.9794 32.2186 30.9691 30.0000 29.2082 28.5387 27.9588 27.4473 26,9897 26.5758 26.1979 25.8503 25.5284 25.2288 24.9485 24.6852 24.4390 24.2022 23.9794 23.7675 23.5655 23.3724 23 1876 23.0103 22.8400 22.6761 22.5181 22.3657 22.2185 22.0761 21.9382 21.8046 21.6749 21.5490 21.4267 21.2177 21.1919 21.0791 20.9691 20.8619 20.7572 20.6550 20.5552 20.4576 20.3621 20.2687 20.1773 20.0877 20.0000 19.9140 19.8297 19.7399 19.6658 19.5861 19.5078 34.1514 32.3905 31.1411 30.1720 29.3802 28.7107 28.1308 27.6193 27.1617 26.7478 26.3699 26.0223 25.7004 25.4008 25.1205 24.8572 24.6090 24.3742 24.1514 23.9395 23.7375 23.6444 23.3596 23.1823 23.0120 22.8481 22.6901 22.5377 22.3905 22.2481 22.1102 21.9766 21.8469 21.7210 21.6987 21.3897 21.3639 21.2511 21.1411 21.0339 20.9292 20.8270 20.7272 20.6296 20.5341 20.4407 20.3493 20.2597 20.1720 20.0860 20.0017 19.9119 19.8378 19.7581 19.6798 34.3201 34.4855 32.5592 32.7246 62 53 31.3098 30.3407 29.5489 28.8794 28.2995 27.7880 27.3304 26.9165 26.5386 26.1910 25.8691 25.5695 25.2892 25.0259 24.7777 24.5429 24.8201 24.1082 23.9062 23.7131 23.5283 23.3510 23.1807 23.0168 22.8588 22.7064 22.5592 22.4168 22.2789 22.1453 22.0156 21.8897 21.7674 21.5584 21.5326 21.4198 21.3098 21.2026 19.4310 19.6030 19.3554 19.2812 19.2082 19.1364 19.0658 18.9963 18.9279 18.8606 18.7943 18.7290 18.6646 18.6012 18.5387 18.4771 18.4164 18.8565 18.2974 18.2391 18.1816 18.1248 18.0688 18.0184 17.9588 19.6274 19.4532 19.3802 19.3084 19.2378 19.1683 19.0999 19.0326 18.9663 18.9010 18.8366 18.7732 18.7107 18.6491 18.5884 18.6285 18.4694 18.4111 18.3536 18.2968 18.2408 18.1854 18.1308 31.4752 30.6061 29.7143 29.0448 28.4649 27.9534 27.4958 27.0819 26.7040 26.8564 26.0345 25.7349 25.4646 25.1913 24.9431 24.7083 24.4855 24.2736 24.0716 23.8785 23.6937 23.6164 23.3461 23.1822 23.0242 22.8718 22.7246 22.5822 22.4443 22.3107 22.1810 22.0551 21.9828 21.7288 21.6980 21.6852 21.4762 21.3680 54 34.6479 32.8870 31.6376 30.6685 29.876. 29.2072 28.6273 28.1158 27.6682 27.2443 26.8664 26.6188 26.1969 25.8978 25.6170 25.3537 25.1065 24.8707 24.6479 24.4360 24.2840 24.0409 23.8561 23.6788 23.5086 23.3446 28.1866 23.0342 22.8870 22.7446 22.6067 22.4731 22.3434 22.2176 22.0962 21.8862 21.8604 21*.0979 2L2633 20.9957 20.8959 20.7983 20.7028 20.6094 20.5180 20.4284 20.3407 20.2647 20.1704 20.0806 20.0066 19.9268 19.8485 19.7717 19.6961 19.6219 19.6489 19.4771 19.4065 19.8370 19.2686 19.2013 19.1350 19.0697 19.0058 18.9419 18.8794 18.8178 18.7571 18.6972 18.6381 18.6798 18.5223 18.4655 18.4095 18.3541 18.2995 211611 21.0618 20.9637 20.8682 20.7748 20.6884 20.6938 20.6061 20.4201 ^0.3868 20.2460 20.1719 20.0922 20.0139 19.9371 19.8615 19.7873 19.7148 19.6426 19.5719 19.5024 19.4340 19.8667 19.3004 19.2351 19.1707 19.1073 19.0448 18.9832 18.9225 18.8626 18.8035 18.7452 18.6877 18.6809 18.6749 18.6195 18.4649 65 34.8078 33.0464 31.7970 30.8279 30.0361 29.3666 28.7867 28.2752 27.8176 27.4087 27.0258 26.6782 26.8568 26.0567 25.7764 25.6131 26.2649 25.0801 24.8073 24.6954 24.3934 24.2003 24.0166 23.8382 23.6679 23.6040 23.3460 23.1986 23.0464 22.9040 22.7661 22.6326 22.6028 22.3769 22.2646 22.0466 22.0198 56 2L7476 2L9070 21.6376 21.5304 21.4267 21.3236 21.2237 21.1261 21.0306 20.9872 20.8458 20.7562 20.6686 20.6825 20.4982 20.4084 20.8348 20.2546 20.1763 20.0995 20.0239 19.9497 19.8767 19.8049 19-7348 19.6648 19.5964 19.5291 19.4628 19.3975 19.3381 19.2697 19.2072 19.1466 19.0849 19.0250 18.9659 18.9076 18.8501 18.7933 18.7373 18.6819 18.6273 21.7970 21.6898 21.5861 21.4829 21.3881 21.2866 21.1900 21.0966 21.0062 20.9166 20.8279 20.7419 20.6676 20.5678 20.4987 20.4140 20.3357 20.2689 20.1833 20.1091 20.0361 19.9643 19.8937 19.8242 19.7558 19.6885 19.6222 19.6569 19.4925 19.4291 19.3666 19.8060 19.2443 19.1844 19.1253 19.0670 19.0095 18.9527 18.8967 18.8418 18.7867 84.9638 83.2029 31.9535 30.9844 30.1926 29.5231 28.9432 28.4317 27.9741 27.5602 27.1823 26.8847 26.6128 26.2132 25.9329 25.6696 26.4214 26.1866 24.9638 24.7619 24.5499 24.3568 24.1720 23.9947 23.8244 23.6605 23.5025 23.8501 23.2029 23.0605 22.9226 22.7890 22.6593 22.5834 22.4111 22.2021 22.1768 22.0636 21.9535 21.8463 21.7416 21.6394 21.5396 21.4420 21.8466 21.2631 21.1617 21.0721 20.9844 20.8984 20.8141 20.7243 20.6502 20.6706 20.4922 20.4154 20.8898 20.2656 20.1926 20.1208 20.0502 19.9807 19.9128 19.8450 19.7787 19.7134 19.6490 19.5856 19.5231 19.4616 19.4008 19.3409 19.2818 19.2235 19.1660 19.1092 19.0532 18.9978 18.9432 57 58 69 35.1175 38.3566 32.1072 81.1381 30.8468 29.6768 29.0969 28.6854 28.1278 27.7139 27.3360 26.9884 26.6665 26.3669 26.0866 26.8288 25.5751 25.3403 26.1175 24.9056 24.7036 24.5105 24.3257 24.1484 23.9781 23.8142 28.6662 23.5038 28.3666 28.2142 28.0763 22.9427 22.8130 22.6871 22.5648 22.3568 22.3300 22.2172 22.1072 22.0000 21.8953 21.7981 21.6933 21.5957 21.6002 21.4068 21.3154 21.2268 21.1881 21.0521 20.9678 20.8780 20.8089 20.7242 20.6459 20.5691 20.4935 20.4198 20.8463 20.2745 20.2039 20.1344 20.0660 19.9987 19.9324 19.8671 19.8027 19.7393 19.6768 19.6152 19.5545 19.4946 19.4855 19.3772 19.8197 19.2629 19.2069 19.1515 19.0969 35.2686 33.5077 32.2588 31.2892 30.4974 29.8279 29.2480 28.7365 28.2789 27.8650 27.4871 27.1395 26.8176 26.6180 26.2377 26.9744 25.7262 26.4914 26.2686 26.0567 24.8647 24.6616 24.4768 24.2995 24.1292 23.9663 23.8073 23.6549 23.5077 23.3653 23.2274 23.0988 22.9641 22.8382 22.7159 22.5069 22.4811 22.3688 22.2683 22.1611 22.0464 21.9442 21.8444 21.7468 21.6518 21.6579 21.4665 21.3769 21.2892 21.2032 21.1189 21.0291 20.9550 20.8753 20.7970 20.7202 20.6446 20.5704 20.4974 20.4256 20.3550 20.2855 20.2171 20.1498 20.0835 20.0182 19.9588 19.8904 19.8279 19.7668 19.7056 19.6457 19.6866 19.5283 19.4708 19.4140 19.3680 19.3026 19.2480 35.4170 83.6661 32.4067 31.4376 30.6458 29 9768 29.3964 28.8849 28.4273 28.0084 27.6855 27.2879 26.9660 26.6664 26.3861 26.1228 25.8746 25.6398 25.4170 25.2051 26.0081 24.8100 24.6262 24.4479 24.2776 24.1137 28.9567 23.8083 23.6561 23.5137 23.8768 23.2422 23.1125 22.9866 22.8643 22.6663 22.6295 22.6167 22.4067 22.2995 22.1948 22.0926 21.9928 21.8962 21.7997 21.7063 21.6149 21.5253 21.4376 21.8516 21.2673 21.1775 21.1084 21.0237 20.9454 20.8686 20.7980 20.7188 20.6458 20.5740 20.5084 20.4389 20.3655 20.1 20.2319 20.1666 20.1022 20.0388 19.9768 19.9147 19.8540 19.7941 19.7850 19.6767 19.6192 19.5624 19.6064 19.4510 19.3964 160 CLOTH STRUCTURE. 75 C SLEY OR PICKS. .5 .5 .5 10 11* 12 13* 14 15" 16 60 17 .5 18 19' 20* 21* 22* 23* 24* 25" .5 27 28* 29* 30* 31* 32* 33* 34* 35* 36* I 37*" 39 40 " 35.5630 33.8021 32.5527 31.5836 30.7918 30.1223 29.5424 29.0309 28.5733 28.1594 27.7815 27.4339 27.1120 26.8124 26.5321 26.2688 26.0206 25.7858 25.5630 25.3511 25.1491 24.9560 24.7712 24.5939 24.4236 24.2597 24.1017 23.9493 23.8021 23.6597 23.5218 23.3882 23.2585 23.1326 23.0103 22.8013 22.7755 22.6627 22.5527 22.4455 22.3408 22.2386 22.1388 22.0412 21.9457 21.8523 21.7609 21.6713 21.5836 21.4976 21.4133 21.3235 21.2494 21.1697 21.0914 21.0146 20.9390 20.8648 20.7918 20.7200 20.6494 20.5799 20.5115 20.4442 20.3779 20.3126 20.2482 20.1848 20.1223 20.0607 20.0000 19.9401 19.8810 19.8227 19.7652 19.7084 19.6524 19.5970 19.5424 61 35.7066 33.9457 32.6963 31,7272 30.9354 30.2659 29.6860 29.1745 28.7169 28.3030 27.9251 27.5775 27.2556 26.9560 26.6757 26.4124 26.1642 26.0294 25.7066 25.4947 25.2927 25.0996 24.9148 24.7375 24.5672 24.4033 24.2453 24.0929 23.9457 23.8033 23.6654 23.5316 23.4021 23.2762 23.1539 22.9449 22.9191 22.8063 22.6963 22.5891 22.4844 22.3822 22.2824 22.1848 22.0893 21.9959 21.9045 21.8149 21.7272 21.6412 21.5569 21.4671 21.3930 21.3133 21.2350 21.1582 21.0826 21.0084 20.9354 20.8636 20.7930 20.7235 20.6551 20.5878 20.5215 20.4562 20.3918 20.3284 20.2659 20.2043 20.1436 20.0837 20.0246 19.9663 19.9088 19.8520 19.7960 19.7406 19.6860 63 63 35.9868 34.2259 32.9765 32.0084 31.2156 30.5461 29.9662 29.4547 28.9971 28.6832 28.2053 27.8577 27.5357 27.2362 26.9559 26.6926 26.4444 26.1796 25.9868 25.7749 25.5729 25.3798 25.1950 25.0177 24.8474 24.5835 24.5255 24.3731 24.2259 24.0835 23.9466 23.8118 23.6823 23.5564 23.4341 23.2251 23.1993 23.0865 22.9765 22.8693 22.7646 22.6624 22.5626 22.4650 22.3695 22.2761 22.1847 22.0951 22.0074 21.9214 21.8371 21.7473 21.6732 21.5985 21.5152 21.4384 21.3628 21.2886 21.2156 21,1438 21.0732 21.0037 20.9353 20.8680 20.8017 20.7364 20.6720 20.6086 20.5461 20.4845 20.4238 20.3639 20.3048 20.2465 20.1890 20.1322 35.8478 34.0869 32.8375 31.8694 31.0766 30.4071 29.8272 29.3157 28.8581 28.4442 28.0663 27.7187 27.3968 27.0972 26.8169 26.5536 26.3054 26.1706 25.8478 25.6359 25.4339 25.2408 25.0560 24.8787 24.7084 24.5445 24.3865 24.2341 24.1 23.9445 23.8066 23.6728 23.5433 23.4174 23.2951 23.0861 23.0603 22.9475 22.8375 22.7303 22.6256 22.5234 22.4236 22.3260 22.2305 22.1371 22.0457 21.9551 21.8684 21.7824 21.6981 21.6083 21.5342 21.4545 21.3762 21.2994 21.2238 21.1496 21.0766 21.0048 20.9342 20.8647 20.7963 20.7290 20.6627 20.5974 20.5330 20.4696 20.4071 20.3455 20.2848 20.2249 20.1558 20.1075 20.0500 19.9932 19.9372 20.0762 19.8818 20.0208 19.8272 19.9662 64 65 36.1236 34.3627 33.1133 32.1442 31.3524 30.6829 30.1030 29.6915 29.1339 28.7200 28.3421 27.9945 27.6726 27.3730 27.0927 26.8294 26.6812 26.3464 26.1236 25.9117 25.7097 25.5166 25.3318 25.1545 24.9842 24.8203 24.6623 24.5099 24.3627 24.2203 24.0824 23.9488 23.8291 23.6932 23.5709 23.3619 23.3361 23.2232 23.1133 23.0061 22.9014 22.7992 22.6994 22.6018 22.6063 22.4129 22.3215 22»2319 22.1442 22.0582 21.9739 21.8841 21.8100 21.7303 21.6520 21.5752 21.4996 21.4254 21.3524 21.2806 21.2100 21.1405 21.0721 21.0048 20.9385 20.8732 20.8088 20.7454 20.6829 20.6213 20.5606 20.6007 20.4416 20.3833 20.3258 20.2690 20.2130 20.1576 20.1030 36.2583 34.9774 33.2480 32.2789 31.4871 30.8176 30.2377 29.7272 29.2686 28.854 28.4768 28.1292 27.8073 27.6077 27.2274 26.9641 26.7159 26.4811 26.2583 26.0464 25.8344 25.6513 25. 4665 25.2892 25. 1189 24.9550 24.7970 24.6446 24.4974 24.3550 24.2071 24.0835 23.9538 23.8279 23.7058 23.4966 23.4708 23.3570 23.2470 23.1408 23.0361 22.9339 22.8341 22.7365 22.6410 22.5476 22.4562 22.3566 22.2789 22.1929 22.1086 22.0188 21.9447 21.8650 21.7867 21.7099 21.6343 21.6601 21.4871 21.4163 21.3447 21.2752 21.2068 21.1395 21.0732 21.0079 20.9435 20.8801 20.8176 20.7560 20.6953 20.6354 20.5763 20.5180 20.4605 20.4037 20.3477 20.2923 36.8909 36.6216 34.6300 34.7606 33.3806 33.6112 66 32.4115 31.6197 30.9502 30.3703 29.8588 29.4012 28.9873 28.6094 28.2618 27.9399 27.6403 27.3600 27.0967 26.8485 26.6137 26.8909 26. 1790 25.9770 25.7839 25.6991 25.4218 25.2515 26.0876 24.9296 24.7772 24.6300 24.4876 24.3497 24.2161 24.0864 23.9606 23.8382 23.6292 23.6034 23.4906 23.3806 23.2734 23.1687 23.0665 22.9667 22.8691 22.7736 22.6802 22.6888 22.4992 22.4115 22.8265 22.2412 22.1614 22.0778 21.9976 67 32.5421 31.7603 31.0808 _..50G9 29.9894 29.6318 29.1183 28.7400 28.3924 28.0705 27.7709 27.4906 27.2273 26.9791 26.7443 26.6215 26.3096 26.1076 25.9146 25.7297 25.6624 26.3821 25.2182 25.0602 24.9078 24.7606 24.6182 24.4803 24.3467 24.2170 24.0911 23.9688 23.7598 23.7340 23.6212 23.6112 23.4040 23.2993 23.1971 23.0978 22.9997 22.9042 22.81C8 22.7194 22.6298 22.6421 22.4661 22.8718 22.2820 22.2079 22.1282 36.6502 34.7 33.6399 32.6708 31.8790 31.2095 30.6296 30.1171 29.6605 29.2470 21.9193,22.0499 21.8425 21.7669 21.6Q27 21.6197 21.6479 21.4773 21.4078 21.8394 21.2721 21.2058 21.1405 21.0761 21.0127 20.9502 20.8886 20.8279 20.7680 20.7089 20.6506 20.6981 20.6363 20.4803 20.4249 21.9731 21.8976 21.8233 21.7603 21.6785 21.6079 21.6384 21.4700 21.4027 21.3364 21.2711 21.2067 21.1438 21.0808 21.0192 20.9585 20.8986 20.8395 20.7812 20.7237 20.6669 20.6109 20.5555 68 20.'2377 20.*3703 20.5009 28.6211 28.1992 27.8996 27.6193 27.3660 27.1078 26.8730 26.6602 26.4383 26.2363 26.0432 25.8684 25.6811 25.6108 25.3469 25.1889 25.0366 24.8893 24.7469 24.6090 24.4764 24.3457 24.2198 24.0975 23.8885 23.8627 23.7499 23.6899 23.6327 23.4280 28.8258 23.2260 23.1284 23.0329 22.9825 22.8481 22.7585 22.6708 22.5848 22.6006 22.4107 22.8366 22.2569 22.1786 22.1018 22.0262 21.9520 21.8790 21.8072 21.7866 21.6671 21.5987 21.5314 21.4661 21.3998 21.8354 21.2720 21.2095 21.1479 21.0872 21.0273 20.9682 20.9099 20.8524 20.7956 20,7896 20.6842 20.6296 69 __.7770 85.0161 33.7667 32.7976 32.0058 31.3363 80.7564 80.2489 29.7873 29.8788 28.9955 28.6479 28.8260 28.0264 27.7461 27.4828 27.2346 26.9998 26.7770 26.5661 26.3631 26.1700 25.9852 25.8079 25.6376 26.4737 25.3157 26.1633 25.0161 24.8737 24.7858 24.6022 24.4725 24.3466 24.2243 24.0153 23.9895 28.8767 23.7667 23.6695 23.6548 28.4526 28.3528 23.2552 23.1597 23.0663 22.9749 22.8853 22.7976 22.7116 22.6273 22.5875 22.4634 22.8887 22.8054 22.2286 22.1530 22.0788 22.0058 21.9340 21.8634 21.7939 21.7255 21.6582 21.6919 21.5266 21.4622 21.8988 21.8363 21.2747 21.2140 21.1541 21.0950 21.0367 20.9792 20.9224 20.8664 20.8110 20.7564 CLOTH STRUCTURE. 161 SLEY OR PICKS. 70 71 36.9020 .5 35.1411 ;33.8917 .5,32.9226 32.1308 .5 31.4613 '30.8814 .5:30.3699 29.9123,_- .5^29.4984 29 ,29. 1205 '29 .5,28.7729'28, ■ 28.4510128 .5 28.1514'28 1 127.871112. .5 27.6078 '27 I 27.3596'27 .5 27.1248'2 .0252 n2643 L0149 .0458 1.2540 .5845 ..0046 1.4931 .0355 1.6216 29 .2437 29. 26.9020 27 .5126.6901 26 126.4881 26, .5,26.2950 26, 126.1102 26. .5 25.9329 125.7626 5,25.5987 125.4407 .5125.2883,25. 125.1411 25 5 24.9987|25 1 24.8608 '24 .5 24.7272'24 124.5975 24, .5 24.4716 24. I24..3493 24. .5 24.1403 24 1 24. 1145 24. ,5,24.0017,24. 23.8917i24. .5i23.7845i23, 23.6798'23. .5.23.5776 23. 23.4778'2a .5 23.38<02'23. 23.2847123. ,5 23.1913 23. 23.0999 23. .5 23.0103, 23. 22.9226i23. 5 22.8366' 22 22.7523 22. 5 22.6625122. 22.5884 22. 5 22.5087,22. l22.4304!22. .5122.3536 22. 22.27_ .5!22.2038j22. ,22.1308,22. .5 22.0590:22 121.9884 22 .5 21.9189 22. 121.8505 21. ,21.7832,21. 121.7169 21 .5 21.6516 21 121.5872,21 .5 21.5238,21 21.461321 .5,21.3997 21 21.3390;21 .5,21.2791121 |21.2200 21 .5;21.161721 ,21.1042 21 .5, 21.0474 21 120.9914 21 .5 20.9360 21 20.8814 21 !.5742 .2746 .9943 .7310 .4828 '.2480 27 '.0252 27 .8133 26 .6113'26 .4182 .2334 i.0561 .1466 .3857 ,1363 .1672 .3754 .'059 J260 .6145 1569 .7430 3651 .0175 73 74 37.2665 37 75 .3960 .1157 .8524 .6042 .3694 .7219 .5639 .4115 .2643 .1219 .9840 .8504 .720. .5948 .4725 .2635 ,23. . -1249 .0149 .907 .8031 -7008 .6010 .5034 35.5056 34.2562 33.2871 32.4953 31.8252 31.2459 30.7344 30.2768 '30, 29.8629 29 29.4850129 29.1374 29, 28.8155 28, 28.5159 '28 28.2356128 27.9723 28 27.7241 27 27.4893 27 1466 27.2665 27, 27.0546'27, 26.8526 '26. 26.6595^26, 26.4747,26, 26.2974 '26 26.1271126, 25.9632:26, 25.8052 25. .5329 25.6528 25, .3857|25.5056 25 ,2433 25.3632 25, .1054 25.2253 25 ,9718 25.0917125, .8421 24.9620 25, .7162'24.836r24. .5939124.7138 24 .3849'24.5048 24, 3591124.4790 24 2463 24.3662 24 13a3 24.2562 24. ,934 ,7327 5396 .3548 1775 .0072 .8433 .3846 37. .6237:35, .3743134. ,4052 33 .6134 32. .9439 32. .3640 '31 .8525 30, .3949 30, ,9810:30, ,6031129, .2555 29, .9336:29 .6340^8, .3537 28, .0904 '28, .8422 27, .6074 '27. .3446 27 .1727 27 .9707 27 .5012'37.6 .7403 35.7 .4909 34.6 .5218 33.6 7300 32.8 .0605 32.1 .4806 I 31.5 .9691 31.0 .511530.6 .0976 30.2 ,7197,29.8 .3721|29.4 .0502129 .7506128 .4703 28 .2070 28 ^.7298 i.7195 3.7504 2.9586 2.2891 L.7092 L.1977 ).7401 ).3262 78 .4079 23. ,3145 23. .2231123. .1335 23. .0458 23. 23. ,8755 i 22. .785. .7116 22. .6319 22. .5536 22.1 ,4768 22. .4012 22. .3270:22. .2540122. .1822122. .1116122. ,0421 22. .9737:22. .9064 22. .8401 21. 748 21. .0291 .9244 ,8222 .7224 .6248 24.1490 24, 24.0443 24, 23.9421! 24 23.8423 23 23.7447 23, 5293 23.6492 23 .4359123.5558 23, ,3445 23. 4644 '23, .2549 1672 0812 22.9071 ,7333 .6750 .7104 .6470 .5845 .5229,.^ .4622 21 ,4023 21 23,8748123 23.2871123 23.2011 23, 23.1168 23, 23.0270 23, 22.9529 23. 22.8732 22. 22.7949 22. 22.7181122 22.6425,22 22.5683122 22.4953 22. 22.4235 22. 22.3529122 22,2834122, 22.2150 22 22. 1477 1 22, 22.0814'22, 22.0161122. ,8318 21.9517 22 .7684 21.8823 22, .7059'21.8258 21 .6443121.7642 21 .5836121.7035121 ,5226 .4484 .3754 1635 .0951 .0278 .9615 .5928 26, .4155 .2452 26 .0813 26 .9233 26 ,7709 25, .6237 25. ,4813 25. .3434 25, .2098 25, ,0801125, .9542125, .8319 24 .6229 24 ,5971 '24 .4843 24, .3743 24, .2671!24 .1624 24 .0602 24, .9604124. .8628123, '673 '23 .6739123 .5825123 ,4929'23, .4052 23, .3292 23, .2.349,23, .1451123. ,0710 23. .9913 23. .9130123, .8362 22 22 .6134 .5416 ,4710 .4015 .3331 ,2658 1995 1342 .7240:27, .5012127 .3893 27 .0873,27, .8942127, 1.7094 '26, .5321126 .3618 26 .1979126 .0399 '26, .8875 26 .7403,25 .5979,25 .4600 25 .3264 25 .1967125. .0708 25. .9485125 .7395124 .7137:24 .6009 24 .4909 24, .3837 24 .2790,24 .1768 24 .0770 24 .9794124 .8839 23 '905 23 ,6991 .0064 .9439 .8823 ..34.32 .2849 .2274 .1706 ,1146 .0592 .5237|21.6436!21 .4646 21.5845121 .4063 21.5262 = 21 .3488:21.4687121 .2920 21.4119 21 .2.360.21.3.559i21 1806121.3005^21 ..0046,21.1260 21.2459 21 .8216 .7617 .7026 .6443 .5868 .5300 .4740 .4186 ..3640 .5218,.-.,. .4358123. ,351523, .2617|23 .1876 23 .1079;23 .0296 1 23. ,9528 23, .8772 '22 ,8030 '22 .73OOI22, .6582'22. .5876122- .5181 22 .4497 22 .3824 '22, ,3161 22, .2508 22, 1864 22 ,1230 22 .0605 22. .9989 22. .9382 22, .8783 '21 .8192 21 .7609 21 .7034 21 .6466 21 .5906 21 ,5352 21 ,4806 21 .5854 .3221 .0739 .8391 .6163 .4044 .2024 .0093 1.8245 ,6472 ,4769 .3130 ,1550 .0026 ..8554 .7130 .5751 .4415 .3118 u 18591 25, .0636125 .8546124 ,8288 24, -.7160 24, :.6060 24, 24. :.394ll24. .2919:24. .1921 1 24. .0945:24. !.9990 24 .9056 24 1.8142:23 .7246:23 .6369 23, .5509 23, 1.4666,23, 1.3768:23, .3027 23, .2230I23. !. 1447 23. 1.0679 23 1.9923 23 .9181 23 .8451^22 .7133 22 .7027122 .63321 22 ,5648122 .4975 22 .4312 22 '.3659 22. ,3015 22. ,2381122 1756:22 .1140 22 .05.33 22, ,9934 22, .9343 22, .8760 21, .8185 21 .7617 21 ,7057 21, ,6503 21, ,59.57 21. 79 37.9525 36.191C 34.943:. 33.9731 .33.181 .32.5118 31.9319 31.4204 30.9628 30.5489 .30.1710 29.8234 29.6015 29.2019 28 9216 28.6583 28.4101 28.1753 27.9525 27.7406 27.5 27.3455 27.1607 26.9834 26.8131 26.6492 26.4912 26.3388 37.8419 36.0810 34.8306 33.8625 33.070'. 32.4012 31.8213 31.3098 30.8522 30.4383 .9483!30.0604 1.6007129.7128 '.2788 29.3909 1.9792 29.0913 .6989,28.8110 .4356128.5477 i.l874l28.2995 .9526 28.0647 .7298 27.8419 .5179127.6300 .3159 27.4280 .1228 27.2349 .9.380 27.0501 .7607126.8728 .5904 126.7025 .4265 26.5386 .2685 26.3806 .1161:26.2282 .9689 26.0810 26.1916 .8265 25.9386 26.0492 .6886,25.8007)25.9113 .5550125.5671 25.7777 .4253,25.5374 25.6480 .2994*25.4115 25.5221 .1771125.2892 25.3998 .9681125.0802 25.1908 .9423'25.C544 25.1650 .8295l24.9416i25.0422 .7195 24.8316 24.9422 ,6123 24.7244 24.8350 24.6192 24.7303 24.5175 24.6281 24.4177 24.5283 24.3201 24.4307 24.2246*24.3852 .019li24.1312l24.2418 .9277l24.0398;24.1504 ,8381 28 9502,24.0606 .7504,23.8625 23.9731 .6644128.7765,23.8871 .5801123.6922 28.8028 .4908 23.6024 28.7180 .4152 23.5283'28.6889 ,3365 23.4486128.5592 1.2582l23.3703l23.48C9 J814|28.2935 23.4041 .1058,23.2179 23.3285 .0816l23.1437i23.2543 .9586,23.0707,23.1813 .8868 22.9989 23.1095 1.8162 22.9283 28.0389 .7467122,8588 22.9694 .6783,22.7904 22.9010 .6110'22.7281 22.88.37 5447 122.6568 '22.7674 .4794 22.5915122.7021 .4150 22.5271 '22.6377 .8516,22.4637 '22.5743 .2881 '22.4012 22.5118 .2275,22.8396 22.4502 ,1658:22.2789122.3895 .1069122.2190 22.8296 .0478122.1599:22.2705 .9895l22.1016l22.2122 .9.320 22.0441 '22.1547 .8752:21.9873 22.0979 .8192:21.9813 22.0419 .7638 21.8759 21.9865 '092 21.8213 21.9819 ,59 .4054 .8056 ,2080 1125 162 CLOTH STRUCTURE. .5 SLEY OR PICKS. 80 38.0618 36.3009 35.0515 34.0824 33.2906 32.6211 32.0412 31.5297 31.0721 30.6582 30.2803 29.9327 29.6108 29.3112 .5 .5 81 38.1697 36.4088 35.1594 34.1903 33.3985 32.7290 32.1491 31.6376 31.1800 30.7661 30.3882 30.0406 29.7187 29.4191 29.1388 83 38.2763 36.5154 35.2660 34.2969 33.5051 32.8356 32.2557 31.7442 31.2866 30.8727 30.4948 30.1472 29.8253 29.5267 29.2454 17 18 19 .5 25.1615 25.2694 20 25.0515 25.1594 „ 24.9443 25.0522 21 24.8396 24.9475 24.7374 24.8453 24.6376 24.7455 24.5400 24.6479 24.4445 24.5524 24.3511 24.4590 24.2597 24.1701 24.0824 23.9964 26 23.9121 .5 23.8223 27 23.7482 .5 23.6685 28 23.5902 .5 23.5134 29 23.4378 .5 23.3636 30 23.2906 .5 23.2188 24.3676 24.2780 24.1903 83 38.3816 36,6207 35.3713 34.4022 33.6104 32.9409 32.3610 31.8495 31.3919 30.9780 30.6001 30.2525 29.9306 29.6310 29.3507 29.0874 28.8392 28.6044 28.3876 28.1697 27.9677 84 38.4856 36.7247 35.4753 34.5062 33.7144 33.0449 32.4650 31.9535 31.4959 31.0820 30.7041 30.3565 30.0346 29.7350 29.4547 29.1914 28.9432 28.7084 28.4856 28.2737 28.0717 85 ^y.lOOO OiJ.tZ'kD'ii .5 28.7676 28.8755 28.9821 9 28.5194 28.6273 28.7339 .5 28.2846 28.3925 28.4991 10 28.0618 28.1697 28.2763 .5 27.8499 27.9578 28-0644 11 27.6479 27.7558 27.8624 ^, .au, . ^o.v< xi .5 27.4548 27.5627 27.6693 27.7746 27.8786 12 27.2700 27.3779 27.4845 27.5898 27.6938 .5 27.0927 27.2006 27.3072 27.4125 27.5165 13 26.9224 27.0303 27.1369 27.2422 27.3462 .5 26.7585 26.8664 26.9730 27.0783 27.1823 14 26.6005 26.7084 26.8150 26.9203 27.0243 .5 26.4481 26.5560 26.6626 26.7679 26.8719 15 26.3009 26.4088 26.5154 26.6207 26.7247 .5 26.1585 26.2664 26.3730 26.4783 26.5823 16 26.0206 26.1285 26.2351 26.3404 26.4444 25.8870 25.9949 26.1028 26.2068 26.3108 25.7573 25.8652 25.9731 26.0771 26.1811 25.6314 25.7393 25.8472 25.9512 25.5091 25.6170 25.7249 23.8289 25.3001 25.4080 25.5159 25.6199 25.2743 25.3822 25.4901 25.5941 25.3773 25.4813 25.2673 25.3713 25.1588 25.2641 25.0541 25.1594 24.9519 24.8521 24.7545 24.6590 24.5656 24.4742 24.3846 24.2969 24.1043 24.2109 24.3162 24.0200 24.1266 24.2319 23.9302 24.0368 24.1421 23.9627 24.0680 23.8830 23.9883 23.8047 23.9100 23.7279 23.8332 23.9372 23.6523 23.7576 23.8616 23.5781 23.5051 23.4333 24.4899 24.4022 23.8561 23.7764 23.6981 23.6213 23.5457 23.4715 23.5781 23.6834 23.7874 23.3985 23.5051 23.6104 23.7144 23.3267 23.4333 23.5386 23.6426 31 23.1482 23.2561 23.3627 23.4680 23 .5720 .5 23.0787 23.1866 23.2932 23.3985 23 .5025 32 23.0103 23.1182 23.2248 23.3301 23 .4341 .5 22.9430 23.0509 23.1575 23.2628 23.3668 33 22.8767 22.9846 23.0912 23.1965 23 .3005 .5 22.8114 22.9193 23.0259 23.1312 23.2352 34 22.7470 22.8549 22.9615 23.0668 23. 1708 .5 22.6836 22.7915 22.8981 23.0034 23.1074 35 22.6211 22.7290 22.8356 22.9409 23.0449 .5 22.5595 22.6674 22.7740 22.8793 22.9833 36 22.4988 22.6067 22.7133 22.8186 22.9226 .5 22.4389 22.5468 22.6534 22.7587 22.8627 37 22.3798 22.4877 22.5943 22.6996 22.8036 .5 22.3215 22.4294 22.5360 22.6413 22.7453 22.2640 22.3719 22.4785 22.5838 22.6878 •5 22.2072 22.3151 22.4217 22.5227 22.6310 39 22.1512 22.2591 22.3657 22.4710 22 5750 .5 22.0958 22.2037 22.3103 22.4156 22.5196 40 22.0412 22.1491 22.2557 22.3610 22.4650 26.0552 25.9329 25.7239 25.6981 25.5853 25.4753 25.3681 25.2634 25.0572 25.1612 24.9574 25.0614 24.8598 24.9638 24.7643 24.8683 24.6709 24.7749 24.5795 24.6835 24.5939 24.5062 24.4202 24.3359 24.246- 24.1720 24.0923 24.0140 38.5884 36.8275 35.5781 34.6090 33.8172 33.1477 32.5678 32.0563 31.5987 31.1848 30.8069 30.4593 30.1374 29.8378 29.5575 29.2942 29.0460 28.8112 28.8497 28.3765 28.1745 27.9814 27.7966 27.6193 27.3490 27.2851 27.1271 26.9747 26.8275 26.6851 26.5472 26.4136 26.2839 26.1580 26.0357 25.8267 25.8009 25.6881 25 5781 25.4709 25.8662 25.2640 25.1642 25.0666 24.9711 24.8777 24.7863 24.6967 24.6090 24.5230 24.4387 24.3489 24.2948 24.1951 24.1168 24.0400 23.9644 23.8902 23.8172 23.7454 23.6748 23.6053 23.5369 23.4696 23.4033 23.3380 23.2736 23.2102 23.1477 23.0861 23.0254 22.9655 22.9064 22.8481 22.7906 22.7338 22.6778 22.6224 22.5678 86 87 38.6900 36.9294 35.6797 34.7186 33.9188 33.2493 32.6694 32.1579 31.7003 31.2864 30.9085,__ 30.5609 30 30.2390 30, 29.9394 30 29.6591 29 29.3958 29 29.1476 29 28.9128 29 28.6900 28 28.4781 28. 28.2761 28 28.0830 28 27.8982 27 27.7209 27, 27.4506 27 27.3867 27. 27.2287 27 27.0763 26.9291 26.7867 26.6488 26.5152 26.3855 26.2596 26.1373 25.9283 25.9025 25.7897 25.6797 25.5725 25.4678 25.3656 25.2658 25.1682 25.0727 24.9793 24.8879 24.7983 24.7106 24.6246 24.5403 24.4505 24.3764 24.2967 24.2184 24.1416 24.C660 23.9918 23.9188 .._ 23.8470 23. 23.7764 23. 23.7069 23. 23.6385 23. 23.5712 23. 23.5049 23. 23.4396 23. 23.3752 23. 23.3118 23. 23.2493 23. 23.1877 23. 23.1270 23. 23.0671 23. 23.0080 23. 22.9497 23 22.8922 22 22.8354 22. 22.7794 22. 22.7240 22 22.6694 22, ,7904 .0295 ,7801 8110 0192 ,3497 7698 .2583 ,8007 .3869 .0089 .6613 1.3394 1.0398 1.7695 1.4962 1.2480 L0132 '904 .5705 i.3765 .1834 .9986 .8213 ,5510 .4871 .3291 .1767 .0295 .8871 .7492 .6156 .4859 ,3600 .2378 ,0287 .0029 .8901 .7801 .6729 5682 4660 .3662 .2686 .1731 .0797 ,9883 ,8987 ,8110 ,7250 ,6407 ,5509 ,4768 .3971 .3188 ,2420 ,1664 ,0922 ,0192 ,9474 ,8768 ,8073 ,7389 6716 6053 5400 4756 4122 3497 2881 2274 1675 1084 0501 9926 9358 8798 8244 88 1288 ,8794 ,9103 ,1185 ,4490 .8691 ,3576 .9000 ,4861 ,1082 ,7606 ,4387 ,1391 ,8588 ,5955 ,3473 ,1125 ,8897 .6778 .4758 .2827 0979 .9206 .6503 .5864 .4284 .2760 1288 9864 ,8485 7149 ,5852 ,4593 ,3370 1280 1022 9894 8794 ,7722 6675 5653 4655 3679 2724 1790 37.2269 35.9775 35.0086 34.2166 33.5471 32.9672 32.4557 31.9981 31.5842 31.2063 30.8587 30.6368 30.2372 29.9569 29.6936 29.4454 29.2106 ,9103 ,8243 ,7400 ,6502 5761 4964 4181 3413 2657 1915 1185 ,0467 ,9761 ,7709 ,7046 6393 5749 ,5115 4490 ,887 2077 1494 0919 0351 9791 9237 28.1960 28.0187 27.7484 27.6845 27.5265 27.3741 27.2269 27.0845 26.9466 26.8130 26.6833 26.5574 26.4351 26.2261 26.2003 26.0876 25.9775 25.8703 25.7656 25.6634 25.5636 25.4660 25.3705 25.2771 25.1857 25.0961 25.0084 24.9224 24.8381 24.7483 24.6742 24.5945 24.5162 24.4394 24.8638 24.2896 24.2166 24.1448 24.0742 24.0047 23.9863 23.8690 23.8027 23.7874 23.6730 23.6096 23.5471 23.4855 23.4248 23.3649 23.3058 23.2475 23.1900 23.1332 23.0772 23.0218 22.9672 CLOTH STRUCTURE. 163 o i: .5 .5 SLEY OR PICKS. 90 91 .5 6 .5 .5 .5 28.2931 28.1158 27.9455 27.7816 27.6236 27.4712 27.3240 27.1816 27.0437 26.9101 27.2775 27.3725 27.1396,27.2346 27.0060 27.1010 26.7804 26.8763 26.9713 26.6545 26.7504 26.8454 26.7231 26.5322 26.6281 26.3232 26.4191 26.2974 26.3933 26.1846 26.2805 .5 .5 .5 39.0849 39.1808 39.2758 37.5149 36.2655 35.2964 34.5046 33.8351 33.2552 32.7437 32.2861 31.8722 31.4943 31.1467 30.8248 30.5252 30.2449 29.9816 29.7334 29.4986 29.2758 29.0639 37.3240 37.4199 36.0746,36.1705 35.1055 35.2014 34.3137 34.4096 33.6442 33.7401 33.1602 32.6487 32.1911 31.7772 31.3993 31.0517 30.7298 30.4302 30-1499 29.8866 29.6384 29.4036 29.1808 33.0643 32.5528 32.0952 31.6813 31.3034 30.9558 30.6339 30.3346 30.0540 29.7907 29.5425 29.3077 29.0849 .5 28.8730 28.6710 .5 28.4779 28.7669 28.5738 28.3890 28.2117 28.0414 27.8775 27.7195 27.5671 27.6621 27.4199 27.5149 93 93 28.4840 28.3067 28.1364 27.9725 27.8145 26.0746 25.9674 25.8627 25.7605 25.6607 25.5631 25.4676 25.3742 25.2828 25.1932 25.1055 25.0195 26.5141 26.4883 26.3755 26.1705 26.2655 26.0624 25.9577 25.8555 25.7557 25.6581 25.5626 25.4692 25.3778 25.2882 25.2005 25.1145 24.9352 25.0302 24.8454 24.9404 24.7713 24.8663 24.6916 24.6133 24.5365 24.4609 24.3867 , 24.3137 .5 24.2419 24.1713 .5 24.1018 24.0334 23.9661 23.8998 .5 24.7866 24.7083 24.6315 24.5559 24.4817 24.4087 24.3369 24.2663 24.1968 24.1284 24.0611 23.9948 23.9295 23.8651 23.8017 23.7392 23.8345 23.7701 23.7067 _ 23.6442, .5123.5826 23.6776 36 23.5219 23.6169 .5 23.4620!23.5570 37 |23.4029i23.4979 .5 23.3446 23.4396 38 23.2871 .5 23.2303 39 123.1743 .5123.1189 23.3821 23.3253 23.2693 26.1583 26.0536 25.9514 25.8516 25.7540 25.6585 25.5651 25.4737 25.3841 25.2964 25.2104 25.1261 25.0363 24.9622 24.8825 24.8042 24,7274 24.6518 24.5776 24.5046 24.4328 24.3622 24.2927 24.2243 24.1570 24.0907 24.0254 23.9610 23.8976 23.8351 23.7735 23.7128 23.6529 23.5938 23.5355 23.4780 23.4212 23.3652 23.2139 23.3098 40 1 23.0643 23.1593 23.2552 39.369' , 37.6088 j 36.3594 35.3903 34.5985 33.9290 33.3491 32.837- 32.3800 31.9661 31.5882 31.2406 30.9187 30.6191 30.3388 30.0755 29.8273 29.5925 29.3697 29.1578 28.9558 28.7627 28.5779 28.4006 28.2303 28.0664 27.9084 27.7560 27.6088 27.4664 27.3285 27.1949 27.0652 26.9393 26.8170 26.6080 26.5822 26.4694 26.3594 26.2522 26.1475 26.0453 25.9455 25.8479 25.7524 25.6590 25.5676 25.4780 25.3903 25.3043 25.2200 25.1302 25.0561 24.9764 24.8981 24.8213 24.7457 24.6715 24.5985 24.5267 24.4561 24.3866 24.3182 24.2509 24.1846 24.1193 24.0549 23.9915 23.9290 23.8674 23.8067 23.7468 23.6877 23.6294 23.5719 23.5151 23.4591 23.4037 23.3491 94 39.4626 37.7017 '36.4523 35.4832 34.6914 34.0219 33.4420 32.9305 32.4729 32.0590 31.6811 31.3335 31.0116 30.7120 30.4317 30.1684 29.9202 29.6854 29.4626 29.2507 29.0487 28.8556 28.67 28.4935 28.3232 28.1593 28.0013 27.8489 27.7017 27.5593 27.4214 27.2878 27.1581 27.0322 26.9099 26.7009 26.6751 26.5623 26.4523 26.3451 26.2404 26.1382 26.0384 25.9408 25.8453 25.7519 25.6605 25.5709 25.4832 25.3972 25.3129 25.2231 25.1490 25.0693 24.9910 24.9142 24.8386 24.7644 24.6914 24.6196 24.5490 24.4795 24.4111 24.3438 24.2775 24.2122 24.1478 24.0844 24.0219 23.9603 23.8996 23.8397 23.7806 23.7223 23.6648 23.6080 23.5520 23.4966 23.4420 95 39.5545 37.' 36.5442 35.6751 34.7833 34.1138 33.5339 33.0224 32.5648 32.1509 31.7730 31.4254 31.1035 30.8039 30.5236 30.2603 30.0121 29.7773 29.5545 29.3426 29.1406 28.9475 28.7627 28.5854 28.4161 28.2612 28.0932 27.9408 27.7936 27.6512 27.5133 27.3797 27.2500 27.1241 27.0018 26.7928 26.7670 26.6542 26.5442 26.4370 26.3323 26.2301 26.1303 26.0327 25.9372 25.8438 25.7524 25.6628 25.5751 25.4891 ,i5.4048 25.3150 25.2409 25.1612 25.0829 25.0061 24.9305 24.8563 24.7833 24.7115 24.6409 24.5714 24.5030 24.4357 24.3694 24.3041 24.2397 24.1763 24.1138 24.0522 23.9915 23.9316 23.8725 23.8142 23.7567 123.6999 123.6439 23.5885 23.5.839 96 39.6454 37.8845 36.6351 35.6660 34.8742 34.2047 33.6248 33.1133 32.6557 32.2418 31.8639 31.5163 31.1944 30.8948 30.6145 30.351! 30.1030 29.8682 29.6454 29.4335 29.2315 29.0384 )36 '63 28.5060 28.3421 28.1841 28.0317 27.8845 27.7421 27.6042 27.4706 27.3409 27.2160 27.0927 26.8837 26.8579 26.7451 26.6351 26.5279 26.4232 26.3210 26.2212 26.1236 26.0281 25.9347 25.8433 25.7537 25.6660 25.5800 25.4957 26.4059 25.3318 25.2521 25.1738 25.0970 25.0214 24.9472 24.8742 24.8024 24.7318 24.6623 24.5939 24.5266 24.4603 24.3950 24.3306 24.2672 24.2047 24.1431 24.0824 24.0225 23.9634 23.9051 23.8476 23.7908 '23.7348 23.6794 '23.6248 97 98 99 100 '354 ,9745 '251 '560; ,9642 ,2947 7148 2033 7457 3318 ,9539 .6063 ,2844 '.9848 70451 1.4412 '.1930 ,95821 '.7354 .5235 3215, '.1284, ,9436' ,7663 .5960 .4321 .2741 .1217 ,9745 ,8321 ,6942 ,5606 ,4309 .3050 1827 ,9737 9479 .8351 .7261 6179 6132 4110 3112 2136 1181 ,0247 ,9333 ,8437 ,7560 00 585' 4959 4218 3421 2638 1870 1114 ,0372 ,9642 ,8924 ,8218 7523 ,6839 ,6166 ,5503 4850 4206 3572 2947 2331 1724 1125 0534 9951 ,9376 8808 8248 '694 '148 39.8245 39.9127 40.0000 '38.0636 38.1518138.2391 |36.8142;36.9024,36.9897 35.8451135.9333 36.0206 35.0533 35.1415 35.2288 34.38.38 34.4720134.5593 33.8039 33.892r33.9794 .33.2924 33.3806 33.4679 32.8348 32.9230 33.0103 32.4209 32.5091 32.5964 32.0430 ,31.6954 31.3735 (31.0739 130.7936 30.5303 30.2821 30.0473 29.8245 29.6126 29.4106 29.2175 29.0327 28.8564 28.6851 28.5212 28.3632 28.2108 28.0636 27.9212 27.7833 27.6497 27.5200 27.3941 32.1312*32.2185 31.7836 31.4617 31.1621 30.8818 30.6185 30.3703 30.1365 29.9127 29.7008 29.4988 29.3057 29.1209 28.9436 28.7733 28.6094 28.4614 28.2990 28.1518 28.0094 27.8715 27.7379 27.6082 27.4823 31.8709 31.6490 31.2494 30.9691 30.7058 30.4576 30.2228 30.0000 29.7881 29.6861 29.3930 29.2082 29.0309 28.8606 28.6967 28.6387 28.3863 28.2391 28.0967 27.9588 27.8252 27.6955 27.6696 27.4473 27.2383 27.2126 27.0997 26.9897 26.8826 26.7778 26.6756 26.5758 26.4782 26.3827 27.2718 27.3600 27.0628 27.1510 27.0370 27.1262 26.9242 27.0124 26.8142 26.9024 26.7070 26.7952 26.6023 26.6905 26.5001 26.6883 26.4003 26.4885 26.3027 26.3909 26.2072 26.2954 26.1138 26.2020 26.2893 26.0224 26.1106 26.1979 25.9328 26.0210 26.1083 25.8451 25.9333 26.0206 25.7691 25.8473 25.9346 25.6748 25.7630 25.8503 25.6850 25.6732 25.7605 25.6100 25.5992 25.6864 25.4312 26.5194 25.6067 25.3629 25.4411 25.5284 25.2761 25.3643 25.4516 25.2005 25.2887 25.3760 25.1263 25.2145 25.3018 25.0533 25.1415 25.2288 24.9815 25.0697 25.1570 24.9109 24.9991 25.0864 24.8414 24.9296 25.0169 24.7730 24.8612 24.9486 24.7057 24.7939 24.8812 24.6394 24.7276 24.8149 24.6741 24.6623 24.7496 24.6097 24.5979 24.6852 24.4463 24.6345 24.6218 24.3838 24.4720 24.5593 24.3222 24.4104 24.4977 24.2615 24.3497 24.4370 24.2016 24.2898 24.3771 24.1425 24.2307 24.3180 24.0842 24.1724 24.2597 24.0267 24.1149 24.2022 •23.9699 24.0581 24.1454 23.91.39 24.0021 24.0894 23.8585 23.9467 24.0340 23.80.39 23.8921 23.9794 164 MULTIPLICATION TABLES. The multiplication tables on the next two pages show at a glance products of numbers 1 to 100 multiplied by numbers 1 to 12 inclusive. To use the tables, find the number to be multiplied in the left hand column and follow its horizontal line until the product is reached in column directly under the multiplier. Example: To multiply 46 by 9. Find 46 in left hand column and under the column headed by 9 will be found the product 414, which is the answer. For products of numbers not covered by the tables, subdivide the numbers into divisions that are found in the tables and multiply by sections as shown in the tables. I. Example : To multiply 4326 by 97. Note that 4326 is made up as follows 4000 300 20 6 Find 97X4 in table and add three ciphers=388,000 97X3 two ^ 29,100 97X2 one ^ 1,940 97X6 = 582 added together =419,622 answer II. Example: To multiply 1257 by 6709 Subdivide 1257== 1200 57 Subdivide 6709= 6700 9 6000 700 9 1200X6700 1200 X 9 57X6000 57 X 700 57X 9 = 8,040,000 = 10,800 = 342,000 = 39,900 513 added together MULTIPLICATION TABLES. 165 1 2 3 4 5 1 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 3 6 9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 54 60 66 72 7 14 21 28 35 42 49 56 63 70 77 84 8 16 24 32 40 48 56 64 72 80 88 96 9 18 27 36 45 54 63 72 81 90 99 108 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 11 22 33 44 55 66 77 88 99 110 121 132 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 132 144 13 26 39 52 65 78 91 104 117 130 143 156 14 28 42 56 70 84 98 112 126 140 154 168 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 135 150 165 180 16 32 48 64 80 96 112 128 144 160 176 192 17 34 51 68 85 102 119 136 153 170 187 204 18 36 54 72 90 108 126 144 162 180 198 216 19 38 57 76 95 114 133 152 171 190 209 228 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 21 42 63 84 105 126 147 168 189 210 231 252 22 44 66 88 110 132 154 176 198 220 242 264 23 46 69 92 115 138 161 184 207 230 253 276 24 48 72 96 120 144 168 192 216 240 264 288 25 50 75 100 125 150 175 200 225 250 275 300 26 52 78 104 130 156 182 208 234 260 i 286 312 27 54 81 108 135 162 189 216 243 270 297 324 28 56 84 112 140 168 196 224 252 280 308 336 29 58 87 116 145 174 203 232 261 290 319 348 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240 270 300 330 360 31 62 93 124 155 186 217 248 279 310 341 372 32 64 96 128 160 192 224 256 288 320 352 384 33 66 99 132 165 198 231 264 297 330 363 396 34 68 102 136 170 204 238 272 306 340 374 408 35 70 105 140 175 210 245 280 315 350 385 420 36 72 108 144 180 216 252 288 324 360 396 432 37 74 111 148 185 222 259 296 333 370 407 444 38 76 114 152 190 228 266 304 342 380 418 456 39 78 117 156 195 234 273 312 351 390 429 468 40 80 120 160 200 240 280 320 360 400 440 480 41 82 123 164 205 246 287 328 369 410 451 492 42 84 126 168 210 252 294 336 378 420 462 504 43 86 129 172 215 258 301 344 387 430 473 516 44 88 132 176 220 264 308 352 396 440 484 528 Loo loV/ £i^O 970 O LO ^fiO OOl/ 40^ 450 495 46 92 138 184 230 276 322 368 414 460 506 552 47 94 141 188 235 282 329 376 423 470 517 564 48 96 144 192 240 288 336 384 432 480 528 576 49 98 147 196 245 294 343 392 441 490 539 588 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 166 MULTIPLICATION TABLES. 1 1 ! 2 3 4 5 6 7 — 8 9 10 11 12 51 102 153 204 255 306 357 408 459 510 561 612 52 104 156 208 260 312 364 416 468 520 572 624 106 159 212 265 318 371 424 477 530 583 636 54 i 108 162 216 270 324 378 432 486 540 594 648 55 [ 110 165 220 275 330 385 440 495 550 605 660 56 1 112 168 224 280 336 392 448 504 560 616 672 X ^7 i 114 171 228 285 342 399 456 513 570 627 684 o8 116 174 232 290 348 406 464 522 580 638 696 59 118 177 236 295 354 413 472 531 590 619 708 60 ! 120 180 240 300 360 420 480 540 600 660 720 d1 122 183 244 305 366 427 488 549 610 671 732 62 124 186 248 310 372 434 496 558 620 682 744 63 126 189 252 315 378 441 504 567 630 693 756 64 128 192 256 320 384 448 512 576 640 704 768 65 130 195 260 325 390 455 520 585 650 715 780 Ob 132 198 264 330 396 462 528 594 660 726 792 67 134 201 268 335 402 469 536 603 670 737 804 68 136 204 272 340 408 476 544 612 680 748 816 69 138 207 276 345 414 483 552 621 690 759 828 70 140 210 280 350 420 490 560 630 700 770 840 71 142 213 284 355 426 497 568 639 710 781 852 72 144 216 288 360 432 504 576 648 720 792 864 73 146 219 292 365 438 511 584 657 730 803 876 74 148 222 296 370 444 518 592 666 740 814 888 75 150 225 300 375 450 525 600 675 750 825 900 76 152 228 304 380 456 532 608 684 760 836 912 77 154 231 308 385 462 539 616 693 770 847 924 78 156 234 312 390 468 o46 624 702 780 858 936 79 158 237 316 395 474 553 632 711 790 869 948 80 160 240 320 400 480 560 640 720 800 880 960 81 162 243 324 405 486 567 648 729 810 891 972 82 164 246 328 410 492 574 656 738 820 902 984 83 166 249 332 415 498 581 664 747 830 913 996 84 168 252 336 420 504 588 672 756 840 924 1008 85 170 255 340 425 510 595 680 765 850 935 1020 86 172 258 344 430 516 602 688 774 860 946 1032 87 174 261 348 435 522 609 696 783 870 957 1044 88 176 264 352 440 528 616 704 792 880 968 1056 89 178 267 356 445 534 623 712 801 890 979 1068 90 180 270 360 450 540 630 720 810 900 990 1080 91 i 182 273 364 455 546 637 728 819 910 1001 1092 92 ; 184 276 368 460 552 644 736 828 920 1012 1104 93 ' 186 279 372 465 558 651 744 837 930 1023 1116 94 i 188 282 376 470 564 658 752 846 940 1034 1128 95 1 190 285 380 475 570 665 760 855 950 1045 1140 96 ' 192 288 384 480 576 672 768 864 960 1056 1152 97 194 291 388 485 582 679 776 873 970 1067 1164 98 ' 196 294 392 490 588 686 784 882 980 1078 1176 99 ' 198 297 396 495 594 693 792 891 990 1089 1188 100 200 300 i 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 FRA CriONS. 167 COMMON FRACTIONS WRITTEN DECIMALLY. 1- 64 = .01563 2- 64 = 1-32 = .03125 3- 64 = .04688 4- 64 = 2-32 = 1-16 = .0625 5- 64 = .07813 6- 64 = 3-32 = .09375 7- 64 = .10938 8- 64 = 4-32 = 2-16 = 1-8 = ,125 9- 64 = .14063 10- 64 = 5-32 = .15625 11- 64 = .17188 12- 64 = 6-32 = 3-16 = .1875 13- 64 = .20313 14- 64 = 7-32 = .21875 15- 64 = .23438 16- 64 = 8-32 = 4-16 = 2-8 = 1-4 = .25 17- 64 = .26563 18- 64 = 9-32 . .28125 19- 64 = .29688 20- 64 = 10-32 5-16 = .3125 21- 64 --= .32813 22- 64 = 11-32 = .34375 23- 64 = .35938 24- 64 = 12-32 = 6-16 = 3-8 = .375 25- 64 = .39063 26- 64 = 13-32 = .40625 27- 64 = .42188 28- 64 = 14-32 = 7-16 = .4375 29- 64 = .45313 30- 64 = 15-32 = .46875 31- 64 = .48438 32- 64 = 16-32 8-16 = 4-8 = 2-4 = 1-2 = .5 33- 64 = .51563 34- 64 = 17-32 = .53125 35- 64 = .54688 36- 64 = 18-32 = 9-16 = .5625 37- 64 = .57813 38- 64 = 19-32 =- .59375 39- 64 = .60938 40- 64 = 20-32 = 10-16 = 5-8 = .625 168 FRACTIONS. 41- 64 = .64063 42- 64 21-32 = .65625 43- 64 .67188 44- 64 - 22-32 = 11-16 = .6875 45- 64 = .7013 46- 64 23-32 = .71875 47- 64 = .73438 48- 64 = 24-32 = 12-16 = 6-8 = 3-4 = .75 49- 64 - .76563 50- 64 = 25-32 = .78125 51- 64 = .79688 52- 64 = 26-32 = 13-16 = .8125 53- 64 = .82813 54- 64 = 27-32 = .84375 55- 64 = .85938 56- 64 = 28-32 = 14-16 = 7-8 = .875 57- 64 = .89063 58- 64 = 29-32 = .90625 59- 64 = .92188 60- 64 = 30-32 - 15-16 = .9375 61- 64 = .95313 62- 64 = 31-32 = .96875 63- 64 = .98438 64- 64 = 32-32 = 16-16 = 8-8 = 4-4 = 2-2 = 1.00000 1-12 .0833+ 2-12 1-6 .1666+ 3-12 1-4 .25 4-12 2-6 = 1-3 = .3333+ 5-12 .4166+ 6-12 3-6 = 1-2 = .5 7-12 .5833+ 8-12 4-6 = 2-3 = .6666+ 9-12 3-4 .75 10-12 5-6 .8333+ 11-12 .9166+ 12-12 1.0000 SPINDLES. 169 OVR TYPES OF SPINDLES, Since the publication of the last edition of our Textile Texts there have been no radical changes in the several types of our spinning spindles. Improvements in processes of manufacture and in tools and machinery are always under way and it is a safe statement that we make spindles that are more uniform, and superior in every respect to those made a few years ago. All spindles now on the market are based upon inventions of Francis J. Rabbeth. He was the pioneer inventor of the self centering spindle which has now come into general use both in this country and abroad. His latest spindle with the centrifugal clutch drive has been well received and is being more and more generally adopted. We manufacture the well known Draper type of spindle and have steadily and continuously recommended it to the trade. We also manufacture the McMullan and the Whitin or gravity spindle whenever ordered by our customers and can recommend our products in this line as second to none in the quality of material and care in workmanship. A spinning frame spindle is a shaft revolving at high speed to carry a bobbin. This shaft, acting under the influence of its driving band, rotates in a position determined by its bearings. In practice the center of gravity of the spindle and its load is not coincident with the geometric center. The centrifugal force of the offset center of gravity tends to cause the spindle to gyrate. An unbalanced load will cause this offset and may be 6arried to such an extent that the spindle cannot be run properly, thereby limiting its practical range of speed. Well made and well used bobbins will help very much to obviate this result. Within the control of the spindle maker are a number of factors that will keep the center of gravity where it should be. A straight, true spindle blade that will continue to remain straight and true is of great importance. Accurately built spindle bolsters and round whorls contribute to the smooth running and long life of a spindle. All these factors are determined by the quality of the material and workmanship put into a spindle by its maker. The Draper Company has been most prominently identified with the development of the modern high speed spindle, and throughout its history has been its advocate and leading introducer. Years of use and millions of spindles in 170 SPINDLES. active operation have endorsed our well known Draper spindles, known in the trade as the D 2, D 5 and D 4. The most important recent development in spindles is the Rabbeth centrifugal bobbin clutch. This device has segments above the whorl so mounted that they are free to move outwardly under the influence of centrifugal force to grip the bobbin when the spindle is running at speed. The force so developed is enough to prevent the bobbin from slipping on the spindle. The great advantage of this device is that the bobbins will all stand at a uniform level on the spindles, giving completely filled bobbins, and on filling bobbins used on feeler looms a properly located feeler bunch. With the bobbins easily removable there is no excuse for the doifer bending spindle blades in doflfing. In fact, blades under these circumstances can only be bent by inexcusable carelessness, while with the ordinary whorl and cup, the boy in his hurry can easily bend the spindle blade when the bobbin binds. The Rabbeth centrifugal clutch spindle used in conjunction with the Hastings bushed bobbin, gives the maximum of efficiency in spinning and weaving, and in the life of the bobbin. There is less slack yarn and less waste yarn. All bobbins shrink and swell more or less, especially those used for filling; but the clutch allows so loose a fit as to give more leeway in the dimension of the bobbin bore before reaming is necessary and there is no tendency whatever to split bobbins. We have over three millions of these spindles running, and from our present experience and observation we believe their merits will be universally recognized. A longer traverse means less frequent doffing, less work at the spooler with warp yarn, and less knots in the warp. With filling yarn it means less frequent changing of shuttles on common looms, less bobbins to place in the hoppers on Northrop looms and less defects in the cloth from changes of filling with either type of loom. One important advantage of the Rabbeth patent centrifugal clutch spindle is readily seen in the contrast between the two sets of bobbins and spindles shown herewith. The bobbins on the centrifugal clutch spindles were all taken from the same frame; those on the spindles without the clutch were all from another frame; both frames are in the same mill; spinning the same numbers of yarn; and in good condition. The centrifugal clutch bobbins stand at an absolutely uniform level on the spindles; the other bobbins vary in SPIXDLES. 171 height, as is always the case, thereby reducing the available length of traverse and consequently the amount of yarn that can be carried. The centrifugal clutch bobbins of same length average to contain fully ten per cent, more yarn than the bobbins on spindles without the centrifugal clutch, the spinning frames in each case being in good condition. Ten bobbins spun under average mill conditions on a frame equipped with centrifugal clutch spindles. Note that all bobbins rest on the top of spindle whorl at a uniform level. 172 SPINDLES. Ten bobbins spun under average mill conditions on a frame equipped with solid whorl spindles. Note the variation in height of bobbins on the spindles. SPINDLES. 173 While we show several illustrations of our spindles, we do not attempt to illustrate all the known modifications. There are so many different patterns of blades and bases that the combinations are almost endless. The blades are of different designs and different lengths. The whorls are furnished with different cups, with no cup at all, and with the centrifugal clutch. The bases are made with the old style snout, with brass oil-cap and steel retaining hook; also in the Draper spindle with Woodmancy base, and in the Model E base. The Model E base is in two patterns, one with round seat, the other with a double slabbed seat to avoid lifting rods. Many customers prefer to have all of their spindles of this double slabbed pattern, although they are not so easily levelled by papering under the rim. The Model E, made under patent of Charles E. Lovejoy, is more convenient for oiling; it gives freedom for band knots to pass and is strengthened at former weak sections; the doffer guards will not break as easily as on the old base. The bases for the centrifugal clutch spindle vary from the regular standard, since with the centrifugal clutch the bolster is set lower in the base, and the base is shortened at the top. On account of variations in patterns, care must be taken in ordering, to specify accurately just what is wanted, and if spindles are to duplicate old lots it is necessary to send a sample with the order. Model E Base. Double slabbed pattern, viewed from above. We furnish repair parts for all types of spindle, whether originating in our works or not. As we have special tools for assembling, it is best to let us do as much of the assembling as possible. 174 SPINDLES. THE 49 D SPINDLE. The parts of the 49 D spindle, as illustrated, are not wholly sub-divided, since we do not sub-divide them in repairs; for instance, we sell the spindle blade with the whorl and cup attached, for these parts must be assembled on special machinery in order to have them concentric. The blade, as shown, is really in four parts, as it has blade, whorl, cup and also a brass collar forced on under the whorl, to prevent the throwing out of oil. The blade of the 49 D spindle differs somewhat in section from that of the Draper spindle, and we recommend our customers to order the regular Draper blade, as it will fit in the 49 D bolster and is of stronger section. Note that blades are made in two regular lengths, and with- two patterns of top; that is, the longer traverse blade has a cylindrical top, and the shorter traverse blade has a tapering top. The short traverse blade is shown in the illustration. The cups are also made in two sizes, one for warp bobbins and the other for filling bobbins, the filling bobbins taking the larger cup. The filling spindle with large cup is designated as the 48 D spindle and it is a duplicate of the 49 D except in size of cup. The whorls are made in several sizes, being usually either %, ^%6, or 78 inches in diameter at the band groove. The % inch whorl is shown in the illustration. Since the taper on the whorls of the spindles made by different shops varies slightly, this introduces a variation which necessitates accurate knowledge of the spindle to be duplicated. The 49 D base is usually supplied with the hook, although we sell the hooks separately; also the brass oil caps. Bases are always supplied with their retaining hooks in place. Nuts and washers are furnished separately. The bolster is usually supplied with the packing attached, though we can furnish packing in quantity desired. Steps sometimes wear sufficiently to need replacement, although they are carefully hardened. Note that our spindle whorls and bases are now all marked with the word "DRAPER" enclosed in a rectangle with rounded corners. This mark signifies that the piece so marked is made by Draper Company. The 49 D type of spindle is made in three sizes, viz: 49 D, the small; D 91, the medium; and D 81, the large size. SPINDLES. 175 SPINDLES. i 1 SPINDLE BASES. In the illustrations on the opposite page may be seen the earlier form of Woodmancy doffer guard in the Draper No. 2 base at left, and the round Model E base at right. \ SPINDLES. 177 178 SPINDLES. THE DRAPER SPINDLE. The Draper spindle differs from the 49 D in the following particulars: The blade is of a different design, giving greater stiffness and strength. The illustration on page 179 shows the long traverse. The base has the Woodmaney doffer guard and oil cover. The illustration shows the round Model E style. The bolster and step are united by a spring, the step being held by a single pin in the base. The spring lock between the bolster and step allows them to be removed, carefully adjusted by hand and replaced in the base without danger of changing the adjustment. The Rabbeth centrifugal bobbin clutch is seen on this illustration. When the clutch is used the base is slightly different since the base top is shortened. The Draper spindle is made in three sizes, viz: D 2, the small; D 5, the medium; and D 4, the large size. LARGE SIZES. On pages 180 and 181 are seen large sizes of spinning spindles of various forms. They are in order as follows : 1 D 81 which is a large size 49 D. 2 D 4 which is a large size D 2. 3 D 4 in round Model E base. 4 D 4 centrifugal clutch type in round Model E base. SPIAWLES. 179 180 SPINDLES. 1 2 182 SPINDLES. THE WHITIN, OR GRAVITY SPINDLE. The Whitin spindle is one of the well known types which is largely ordered. It has the Woodmancy Doffer Guard and the general dimensions are similar to those of the Draper spindle. Its main points of difference are in the bobbin seat, which is usually made without the cup; the bearing, which is in one piece and cylindrical in bore; and in the absence of packing and means for adjustment. The illustration on next page shows the Whitin spindle with centrifugal clutch in round Model E base. We also furnish it with or without centrifugal clutch in regular base. The Whitin spindle is made in three sizes, viz: small, medium and large. SPINDLES. 183 -BLADE - BOLSTER 184 SPINDLES, THE McMULLAN SPINDLE. On page 185 is shown the McMullan spindle in round Model E base. We can furnish it with centrifugal clutch when desired. The McMullan spindle is made by us to duplicate those furnished by the Saco-Lowell shops, and we can furnish any pattern of base. The McMullan spindle is made in two sizes, viz: small and large. SPINDLES. -BLADE 186 SPINDLES. DRAPER SPINDLES. The three following cuts show Draper spindles in the three sizes drawn in proportional scale. They are the construction that we recommend, and are provided with centrifugal clutch and round E model base with Lovejoy patent oil snout with blades for long traverse. SPINDLES. 188 SEPARA TORS. THE SEPARATOR. The development of high speed spindles and the ballooning of the yarn due to increased spindle-speed led to the invention of the separator to keep the yarn on adjacent spindles from coming in contact and breaking down. We have been closely identified with the introduction and adoption of the separator and are its largest manufacturer. The Rhoades-Chandler Separator brought out by us superseded our earlier Doyle type and is now the recognized standard. We recommend and furnish this separator for changing over old frames and also supply it to builders of new frames. This separator can be turned either up or down for doffing. Our experience in supplying the trade has determined the shape and size of separator to use for the varying speed of spindle, gauge of ring, and number of yarn, and we have patterns to meet all conditions. Figure 1. The cuts show the position the blades occupy with the rail at the lower part of the traverse, Figure 1 showing the separators in normal position with the bobbins removed from the spindle. Figure 2 the blades turned down, and Figure 3 the blades turned up for doffing. In Figure 2 it will be SEPARATORS. 189 noticed that one separator blade contacts with the samson of the frame. Such blades are provided with a special Figure 3. 190 RINGS. THE MIRROR SPINNING RING. trade mark. Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. The double flanged spinning ring patented in 1869 by William T. Carroll was introduced by our predecessors and has been manufactured by us in increasing quantities for many years. While single flanged rings have a limited sale, the great majority of the spindles in this country are spinning yarn upon one of the two flanges of a Draper Company double ring. In recent years the finish of our rings has been greatly improved by the use of machines and processes invented and patented by one of our superintendents, Mr. Frank H. Thompson and owned by our Company. Rings finished by this process make no trouble in starting. In view of the mirror-like appearance of these rings we adopted as a trade mark the word Mirror and have registered this trade mark in the United States Patent office and also in Canada. Customers purchasing Mirror spinning rings may rest assured that they will obtain the best that can be furnished in shape, finish and durability. Ring Without Holder. Ring With Plate Holder. Ring With Cast Iron Holder AND Knight's Patent Traveler Clearer. SPINNING RING FLANGES. It has been customary ever since ring spinning was first introduced, to use the standard or number 2 width of flange for all classes of spinning, whether the ring was one and one-quarter inches in diameter, or two and one-quarter inches. This system worked well so long as ring spinning was confined to coarse and medium numbers of yarn, but with the introduction of finer ring-spun yarn, it has been found advisable to reduce the width of the flange so that the traveler can also be reduced in circle, and therefore use a wire with greater diameter without increasing the weight. A small circle traveler cannot be used on the ordinary width flange, as it will not stretch over without breaking. We have been selling the small or number 1 flange ring for years, our sales having increased rapidly. We recommend it especially for fine and medium numbers, and it is being used successfully for as large as two inch rings. 192 RINGS. Figure 1 Figure 2 The above cuts are self-explanatory, being drawn on enlarged scale. The number 1 flange is shown in Figure 1 and is the narrow width to which we refer. The number 2 flange is shown in Figure 2 and is the old standard width. We sell the number 1 flange and number 2 flange rings at the same price. Ring With Number 1 Flange RINGS. 193 PRICES OF MIRROR SPINNING RINGS. Trade Mark Registered in U. S. Patent Office and Also Registered In Canada. DIAMETER IN INCHES. PRICES OF DOUBLE RINGS. With either Cast Iron or Plate Holder. Without Holder. 1 14 cents. 10 cents. 1 1-16 14 10 1 1-8 14 10 1 1-4 14 10 " 1 3-8 14 10 1 1-2 14 10 1 9-16 14 10 1 5-8 14 " 10 1 11-16 15 11 1 3-4 16 12 1 13-16 17 13 1 7-8 18 14 1 15-16 19 15 2 20 16 2 1-8 22 18 2 1-4 24 " 20 In lots of 5000 or more, taken in any one year, a discount of 10 per cent, will be allowed from the above prices. For guaranteed round rings, add two cents each. For burnished rings, add two cents each. For traveler clearers with cast iron holders add one cent per ring. 194 LIFTING ROD CLEANERS. SHAW & FLINN'S LIFTING ROD CLBANFR. This simple and practical invention, which is shown in cut on opposite side full size for three-quarter inch lifting • rod, is the result of a necessity for something that will prevent the frequent sticking of lifting rods. Everyone familiar with the details of spinning cotton yarn knows that dirt and lint will adhere to the lifting rods and be carried into the bushings or guides set in the frames for the rods to work in; this accumulation of dirt will wear the rods, and sooner or later is liable to stop one or more on a frame. This attachment is made of wire, covered where it passes around the lifting rod with a twisted and braided cord, which fits the rod closely, but not tight enough to cause undue friction; the elasticity of the wire and its covering prevents any liability of sticking on account of collection of dirt. The two parts or covered rings are formed at the ends of one piece of wire, which is bent to pass over the back side of the rail holding the bushing through which the rods run. In forming the cleaner, sufficient spring is given to the wire to cause the rings to fit closely to the top and bottom of the bushing. The lifting rod cleaner has been in successful use for years. We recommend it as a cheap and convenient attachment, requiring but a moment to put on, effectually preventing wear and sticking of lifting rods, adding to the neatness of frames, and reducing the amount of oil required for lubricating the rods to the least possible quantity. With this device the rods will not require oiling more than once in two or three weeks. LIFTING ROD CLEANERS. 195 Shaw & Flinn's Lifting Rod Cleaner. 196 LEVER SCREWS. THM SPEAKMAN LEVER SCREW has been on the market so long that no explanation of its working or dissertation on its superiority is needed. The illustrations herewith are self explanatory. Without interfering with the operation of the frame it can be adjusted to any degree of accuracy. We have sold over 4,000,000 of these screws since placing them on sale. We can furnish them with screw thread to duplicate old screws when changing old frames. All makers of new frames include these lever screws if specified on the order. f SPEED COUNTERS. We are prepared to sell speed counters like the above. Connected with a piece of rubber tubing they are of great assistance in taking spindle speeds. BAND SCALES. 197 THn BAND TENSION SCALB. This device is to the spinning room what an indicator is to the engine room. It multiplies the efficiency of the overseer, or second hand, although the results are shown at the coal pile, rather than in their immediate departments. It is important to the spinning room to have its bands adjusted to a uniform scale of tension, so that they will wear longer, and protect the weave room against slack yarn. The band scale absolutely determines the exact tension of any band, or number of bands. To use the scale, the frame must be stopped, and if the spindle is of the old type with a hook, the hook must be turned. The whorl of the scale is then applied by its slot, under the whorl of the spindle, which will thereby be raised, and the band is slipped off the spindle whorl onto the band scale whorl. By drawing the lower whorl even with the spindle whorl, the tension is shown on the scale. New bands should pull from three to four pounds. It is a mistake to put them on at any higher tension. A spindle should run with a pull of one pound and if it does not turn freely with this tension, it either needs oiling or is too tight in its bearings. The band tension scale can be made to earn its cost many times over in a very short time, by intelligent use. Send sample spindle with order. This is absolutely necessary as the whorl on the scale must be an exact duplicate of the whorl on the spindle. 198 BANDING MACHINE. RHOADES PATENT BANDING MACHINE. Our banding machine as now manufactured includes all the good features of the original Weeks machine combined with the Watters marking attachment, Rhoades patent improvement to prevent spattering the ink in marking, and Rhoades patent arrangement for making bands with reverse twist. It is semi-automatic in action, changing from twisting to doubling, and stopping when the band is done. It can be set to obtain any desired amount of twist, making either a hard or a soft band. A marking attachment marks the bands at a uniform length to indicate where they are to be tied; the band hook slide has a graduated scale so that bands may be made to a predetermined length; by changing the position of the belt shipper, bands can readily be made with reverse twist. At a speed of about 2000 revolutions per minute an operative can produce as high as 1500 bands per day. For years our machines have been the standard for making bands for spinning frames, spoolers and twisters. We carry them in stock both in Hopedale and Atlanta, and can fill orders promptly. Rhoades Patent Banding Machine Adjusted for Regular Twist. Rhoades Patent Banding Machine Adjusted for Reverse Twist. METAL BUSHED BOBBINS. 201 HASTINGS PATENT METAL BUSHED BOBBIN. For years the injury to filling bobbins by the various processes of conditioning yarn has been a source of annoyance to spinners and weavers and of expense to the mills. In the process of conditioning, the bobbins swell, reducing the size of the hole at the bottom, and causing them to stand at various heights on the spindles in the spinning frame; this calls for reaming to fit the spindles; after repeated reaming the wood is so reduced that on Northrop bobbins the heads contract in outside diameter and the rings following the surface of the wood become loose, or fail to fit the shuttle springs, thus ruining the bobbins. 202 METAL BUSHED BOBBINS. The bobbins shown on page 201 were patented by Mr. Walter M. Hastings of Methuen, Mass. and the patent is owned by our Company. The important feature of its construction is the insertion of a metal bushing in the base of the bobbin, opposite the rings on the exterior. This bushing co-operates with the rings to hold the wood in place when subjected to extremes of heat or moisture and thus secures much greater durability. Our illustrations show bobbins made for the Rabbeth Centrifugal Clutch spindle and for the Draper No. 2 spindle with solid whorl. Where the centrifugal clutch spindle is used the bobbins stand at absolutely uniform height on the spinning frame, as the bottom of bobbin rests on the top of whorl. With the spindle having solid whorl the height of bobbins on the frame is nearly the same, subject to the variations in shape of spindle whorls and bobbins. We began to introduce these bobbins about five years ago. The result of the early sample orders was so encouraging that several mills adopted this form of bobbin as their standard. There are now over 22,000,000 of such bobbins in daily use, demonstrating in a practical way our claim that this is the best Northrop loom bobbin on the market when viewed from the points of eflficiency and economy. We are prepared to furnish this bobbin with either feeler or cone for Northrop Looms, with any desired form of outside shape, and to fit centrifugal clutch or other standard patterns of spindles. In ordering these bobbins for solid whorl spindles we call special attention to the following: As above stated, the whorls of spindles vary in size, and bobbins should be fitted to samples having the smallest size of whorl. In this case the only disadvantage is that they stand a little higher on the larger whorls; whereas if bobbins are fitted to the largest whorls they may ride loosely on the smaller whorls and thus make slack yarn. Customers ordering bobbins for solid whorl spindles are requested to send a sample spindle with a file mark on whorl to locate bottom of bobbin. TRAVELER MAGAZINES. •203 DUCKWORTH'S PATENT TRAVELER MAGAZINE. One of the regular expenses of operating ring spinning frames is the replacement of travelers. This expense, which amiounts to a large sum in the aggregate, is due to two causes. First, the actual wear, and second, the loss of travelers which are never used at all. The number lost or thrown away is estimated by spinners to be fully as great as the number actually used. Observations in spinning rooms sho'w travelers distributed the entire length of creel boards, also in the pockets of doffers and spinners and other convenient places from which they are later dropped to the floor or throw^n away. 204 TRAVELER MAGAZINES. Travelers have a faculty of bunching together as shown in illustration, so that it is difficult, if not impossible, to separate them without loss. The Duckworth Traveler Magazine takes a bunch of the travelers, and in regular operation drops them singly so that there is no excuse for losing travelers in handling. An opening is provided for a label to indicate the size in use. A comparison of the two illustrations tells the whole story. The magazine will pay for itself in a very short time. YARN-TESTING MACHINE. 205 THB MOSCROP PATENT SINGLE THREAD YARN-TESTING MACHINE. The Moscrop Patent Single Thread Yarn-Testing Machine Arranged for Belt Drive. Notwithstanding the development in textile manufacturing during the past few years and the improvements in various machines used in cotton mills, one process of vital importance has been practically at a standstill, namely, the accurate testing of yarns. In England, where mills are divided between spinners, and weavers or purchasers of yarn, tests to determine the 206 YARN- TESTING MA CHINE. standard of product are a recognized part of doing business, and the Moscrop Single Thread Testing Machine is used to settle the basis of buying and selling. In this country it is equally important to ascertain the quality of the product even if yarns are both spun and woven in the same mill. The weaving value of warp yarn does not consist in the joint strength of a combined number of threads but in the regularity of the strength, and the weaveability of the single individual threads. Therefore a completely satisfactory test must take cognizance of the single individual threads. The Moscrop testing machine, for which we have the agency for the United States, can be used to determine the relative value of different lots of cotton, as well as the strength and regularity of the yarn as influenced by the spinning and other processes of manufacture. The fact that some threads may be very strong, and the average strength high, does not relieve the mill from the consequences of loss of production caused by frequent breakage of the weaker threads. Put in concrete form : if in a warp of 2000 threads, 1500 are of superior working quality while one in four, or 500 threads, are weak and irregular, the superiority of the three- fourths is of little consequence, as the production will be so seriously hindered by the stoppages to piece up the breaks in the faulty one-fourth. The Moscrop machine is driven by power, either motor or belt as preferred, and takes six bobbins or cops of yarn at one time, seizes the yarn ends, winds off a certain length, and then breaks it through spring pull; the breaking strength being registered on a diagram paper. The machine is provided with weights for testing the accuracy of the springs. Hundreds of these machines have been sold in Great Britain and on the continent. We shall be pleased to make tests of samples of yarns for our customers if desired. SPOOLING. 207 E Model Spooler with Side Boxes. Since entering the field in the early seventies, our spooler has fixed the standard of quality in general design, effectiveness in operation and patented attachments furnished. We introduced the original Wade bobbin holder and the adjustable thread guide, both of which have been greatly improved by our own inventors in recent years. We made the first steel side boxes and top creels; the first all metal spooler; the first machine with adjustable feet for ends and Sampsons, and the first single rail spooler. The spooling of yarn involves a large amount of labor per machine, or in other words is an expensive process, and it is therefore important to adopt such construction as will improve the quality of the output or reduce its cost. Regularity of spindle speed is essential to obtaining a maximum product; slack bands are responsible for a large loss in production. 208 SPOOLING. The operations of the spooler tender, when a bobbin is empty, call for removal of the empty bobbin; introduction of full bobbin; and piecing up the end. Our Rhoades patent self ejecting bobbin holder provides for throwing out the empty bobbins without loss of time and materially increases the possible amount of yarn spooled per day. Our patent traverse motion is convenient in changing the traverse and our patent thread guides of either the Lawrence, MacColl or Improved Northrop type remove imperfections from the yarn to the greatest possible degree. We offer our customers four distinct models of spooler, namely: E MODEL, the pioneer single rail spooler. H MODEL, with Rhoades patent Traverse motion, Bobbin Chutes and side ejecting bobbin holders. I MODEL, with separate traveling belts for empty bobbins, side ejecting bobbin holders, and Rhoades patent traverse motion. L MODEL, with tape driven spindles, otherwise with improvements similar to I model. SPOOLING, 209 E Model Spooler with Side Shelves. Our E Model Spooler is made entirely of metal; it is equipped either with side boxes as shown on page 207 or with side shelves for removable boxes as illustrated above; it may be provided with skewers and side friction strips for spooling from cops or bobbins with filling wind. 210 SPOOLING, E Model Spooler With Side Boxes and Friction Strips. The traverse motion is of the lifting rod type; a change gear governs the speed to produce a faster or slower traverse; another gear determines the length of traverse. A patented compound rocker arm prevents breakage in case a spool gets under the traveling rocker. SPOOLING, 211 The spindle is of single rail pattern with Woodmancy retaining lock and oil cap. In banding the spindles, one band drives two spindles, one on each side of the machine. 212 SPOOLING, The Lawrence Patent Bobbin Holder. Standard Pattern. Lawrence Patent Bobbin Holder. Centre Draw Pattern. This spooler is equipped with the Lawrence patent bobbin holder of either the standard or centre draw pattern as the size of yarn may require. SPOOLING. 213 We also furnish side spindles instead of bobbin holders if desired. An end spindle for tangled yarn replaces one bobbin holder on each side of every machine. 214 SPOOLING. Improved Northrop Guide. In thread guides we furnish several patterns. The Improved Northrop Guide has the lower jaw mounted on an eccentric bolt which provides an accurate adjustment without loosening on the rod. If the slot becomes clogged the lower jaw may be slightly tipped thus exposing the edge so that lint may be removed. With all our spooler thread guides the rod may be turned to present a new wearing surface without changing adjustment of the guide jaws. Lawrence Guide. The Lawrence guide has the lower blade held in operative position by a concealed spring which is easily compressed when the jaw is opened for removal of lint. A separate screw adjustment provides for setting the jaw to give the right opening for the size of yarn to be spooled. SPOOLING. 215 MacColl Guide. The MacColl Guide works on a different principle from any other guide on the market. It does not scrape the yarn but the points of the teeth in the comb on the adjustable jaw catch loose slubs, bunches or imperfections that would pass through other guides; as it allows a larger opening in the setting, it will allow small piecings and knots which are unobjectionable to pass through. The teeth in the comb of the MacColl guide are usually 25 per inch for yarns up to 40^; and 40 per inch for 40^ and finer. By the use of gauges similar to the illustration the guide can readily be adjusted to the size of yarn. The standard lengths of jaws in our thread guides for upright spoolers are IJ^ inches and 2 inches; all are made with longer jaws when desired for use on winders. 216 SPOOLING. Gauge for Setting MacColl Thread Guides. The following table shows the thickness of gauges in thousandths of an inch which we recommend for different numbers of yarn. GAUGES FOR MacCOLL SPOOLER GUIDES. Yarn Yarn No. Gauge. No. Gauge. 10 .044 60 .018 15 .040 65 .018 20 .036 70 .016 25 .032 75 .016 30 .028 80 .015 35 .024 85 .015 40 .022 90 .014 45 .022 95 .013 50 .020 100 .012 55 .020 SPOOLING, 217 H Model Spooler. Our H Model spooler allows the empty bobbins to be dropped back of the side boxes where they pass into chutes from which by opening a slide they may be dropped into a box placed below. The construction is made clear by the sectional illustration. The H Model spooler is made with Rhoades patent traverse motion which does away with lifting rods and their attendant troubles. 218 SPOOLING, Detail of Patent Traverse Motion. By imparting a lengthwise motion to the rods carrying the spooler thread guides, wear and clogging of the guides is reduced and there is less breakage of yarn. This motion is so arranged that changes in length of traverse of yarn on the spool may easily be made; a change of one tooth on the change gear varies the traverse inch. H Model Spooler. Sectional View. 220 SPOOLING, We furnish Rhoades patent side-ejecting bobbin holder which is used only on our chute, or belt spoolers. This bobbin holder saves time of the spooler tender in changing bobbins; a slight motion of the hand will empty several holders at the same time. Rhoades Patent Side-Ejecting Bobbin Holder. This bobbin holder is made with either standard or center draw as the size of yarn may require. SPOOLING, 221 Rhoades Patent Bobbin Holder. Side Draw. Rhoades Patent Bobbin Holder. Center Draw. With coarse yarn this bobbin holder is threaded in the usual way, under the wire. With fine yarns it is threaded through the slot so as to reduce the strain on the yarn from the bobbin to the spool. I Model Spooler. SPOOLING. 223 I Model Spooler. Sectional View. The I Model Spooler has traveling belts which collect the empty bobbins in boxes at one end of the machine. Having two belts which keep the bobbins from each side of the machine separated, the responsibility for bad work may be readily placed where it belongs. 224 SPOOLING. The bobbin holders and thread guides used on the I Model Spooler are the same as for the H model. The traverse motion is also the same. SPOOLING. 225 L Model Spooler. Our L Model Spooler is the latest construction on the market and has been newly designed from the start to meet the requirements of our customers. Recognizing the fact that spooler spindles driven by bands in the usual way vary greatly in speed and that the bands are seldom, if ever, replaced until they come off, we have made a spooler spindle to be driven by a tape on the same general system as our tape-driven twister spindle. 226 SPOOLING, n Each tape drives four spindles; our patent equalizing device takes up the slack and a compensating weight regulates the tension on each group of four spindles. By changing the location of the cylinder on the L Model Spooler we are able to keep the width of the machine at the old limit of four feet; at the same time we provide wider boxes and shelves on the top of the spooler, giving more room for both full and empty spools, an important consideration on coarse work. The spindles in the machine stand two inches nearer the operative than in our other spoolers, making that distance less to reach in piecing up the ends; this renders the work of the spooler tender less tiresome and incidentally increases her efficiency. Tape-driven Spooler Spindle. SPOOLING. PRODUCTION OF SPOOLERS. Dimensions of Spool. Number of Yarn. Kevolutions per minute of the Number of Rabbeth spindles to 1 spooler spindle, running at 82.5 revolutions per minute. Cylinder, 200. Spindle, T'SO. Cylinder, 220.] Cvlinder, S-^O. Spindle, ©2S. Spindle, 300. Length between heads. Diam. of heads. Pounds per spindle per week of GO hours. r 8 64.3 70.7 77.1 6 10 51.4 56.6 61.7 [ 12 5 12 42.9 47.1 51.4) 14 36.7 40.4 44.1 ) 16 32.1 35.3 38.6 [ .... 13 ri8 28.6 31.4 34.3) 20 25.7 28.3 30.9) 22 23.4 25.7 28.1 [ ... 14 24 21.4 23.6 25.7) 5 4 26 19.8 21.8 23.7) 28 18.4 20.2 22.0 [ 15 29 17.7 19.5 21.3 ) 30 17.1 18.9 20.6 ) 32 16.1 17.7 19.3 [ 16 34 15.1 16.6 18.1 ) [36 14.3 15.7 17.1 ) 17 38 13.5 14.9 16.2 i 3i 40 12.9 14.1 15.4 18 44 11.7 12.9 14.0 19 ,50 10.3 11.3 12.3 20 60 8.6 9.4 10.3 21 70 7.3 8.1 8.8 23 80 6.4 7.1 7.8 25 This table applies to spoolers with 6 inch cylinders and band driven spindles with 1^4 inch whorls. While our spoolers may be operated at as high speeds as those of any other make, we advise low speeds as they give less strain on the yarn. 228 SPOOLING. CD iO i:^ rH 22 10> CO CO CD CD 1—1 LO 1—1 o (M :^ I:- rH C5 1—1 inches. 1—1 05 00 1— t (M CO (M CD et and o 1—1 o CO T— 1 00 rH (M CD OQ 0) .s (M rH be CO T-l rH rH CO CO c rH O 1— 1 CD T—l CD rH o CO 05 CO ;^ CD rH i> rH 1—1 rH lO 1— 1 05 rH I> (M \Ci 05 rH CO rH 1—1 00 tH CO ■ CO O 1—1 1— 1 rH CO rH rH o ;^ 1— 1 CO (M O 1— 1 CO rH CD rH Gauge Diam. head of spool. No. of spindles. o CD o 00 O O rH o rH O lO 1— 1 .£ o -^ 73 . 5 o 2 .S^ 03 C ^ f^i^ 5 »<^Di:D»0'^ (M(MrH(M«t>.i>.cDooooocb^cbcb rHTjHrHrH^rHxtlrH^rH'^rHTt(i--(^OC0CiC005C0 cbcbocbcbibibcboibiboorbo rH00t>«rHCOI>.rHrHCOi>-rHrHCOt^rHCOl>'rHCOt^rH o:: -1-3 (M (?q 10 10 10 10 T QOO0QOI>-t>«l^t>.CD5DCD<:DCDCDCD':DCDCD':D O <:£> ^ ^ (X) i>. rH rH 05C^l>.0(r^l>.rHC5C^l>'rHC5C^l>'rHcOOOrH»OCiG.O0iG0l>»O05C0l:'.i:DlC^C0G u C4 (y u w C4 (U u 05 CO* ft n i 1 ft tn 0 1 I 0 ft 03 -H 0) S ft xn 03 0) i 0 ft \ 0 2 0 0 irds p cS B S d ft cS ft d 1 -l-> d 0. d & d 0 « iS 0 M 0 "A 0 « \ 1 20 100 20 74'l00 74' 1 141 '100 47 8 220 1 30 66 1 308 25 1 408' 100 68 6 21 100 21 75 100 75 142 50 71 990 100 37 6 310 30 93 1 410 20 82 1 22 100 22 76 100 76 144 50 72 224 50 56 2 312 25 78 1 413 100 59 7 23 100 23 77 100 77 145 40 58 225 32 72 1 315 100 63 5 414 100 69 6 24 100 24 78 100 78 146 50 73 228 50 57 2 316 25 79 1 415 20 83 1 25 100 25 79 100 79 147 100 49 230 30 69 1 318 100 53 6 416 100 52 8 26 100 26 80 100 80 148 50 74 231 100 < 7 3 320 25 80 1 420 20 84 1 27 100 27 81 100 81 150 40 60 232 50 58 2 322 100 46 7 423 100 47 9 28 100 28 82 100 82 152 50 76 234 100 78 8 324 25'81 1 424 100 53 8 29 100,29 83 100 83 153 100 51 2:35,100 47 5 325 24 78 1 425 20 85 1 30 100 30 84| 50 42 154 50 77 2:36 50 59 2 328 25 82 1 427 100 61 7 31 100'31 85 100 85 155 40 62 237 100 240| 30 243,100 79 8 330 30 99 1 430 20 86 1 32 100 32 86 50 43 156 50 78 79 1 332 25 83 1 432 100 72 6 3:3 100,33 87 100 87 153 50 79 81 8 3:33 100 37 9 435 20 87 1 34 100 341 1 88 50 44 159 100: 53 244 50 61 2 3:35 100 67 5 438 100 73 6 35 100 35 1 89 100 89 160 40 64 245 100 49 5 336 25 84 1 440 20 88 1 36 100 36! 1 90 50 45 161 100 23 246,100 82 8 340 25 85 1 441' 100 49 9 37 100 37 1 91 100 91 162 50^ 81 1 248 50 62 2 342 100 57 6 444; 100 74 6 38 100 38' 1 92 50 46 164 50 82 249 100 83 3 343il00 49 7 4451 20 89 1 39 100 391 1 93 100 93 1 165 40 66 250 30 75 1 344 345 25 86 1 448,100 06 8 4J 100140 1 94 50 47 166 50 83 252 50 63 2 100 69 5 450 20 90 1 41 100 41 1 95 60 57 168 50 84 255,100 51 5 343 100 58 24184 6 455 20 91 1 42 100,42! 1 96 50 48 170 40 68 256 50 64 2 350 1 456 100 76 6 43 100 43' 1 97 100 97 172 50 86 1 258' 100 86 3 :35l 100' 39 9 459 100 51 9 44 IOOI44I 1 98 50 49 174 50 87 259,100 37 7 352 25 88 1 460 20 92 1 45 100 45 99 100 99 175 40 70 260 30 78 1 354 100'59 6 462 100 1 * 6 46 100|46 100 50 50 176 50 88 261! 100 87 3 355 100 71 5 464 100 08 8 47 100147 102 50 51 178 50 89 264 50 66 2 356 25,89 1 465 ! 20 93 1 48100 48 104 50 52 180 4£) 72 265 100 53 5 :357 10C>51 7 468 100 78 6 49 100 49 105 60 63 182 50 91 267 100 89 3 3^30 25 90 1 469,100 67 7 50 100 50 106 50 53' 1 183 100 61 268 25 67 1 364 25 91 1 470 20 94 1 51 100 51 108 50 54 1 184 50 92 270 30 81 1 365 20 73 1 472 100 59 8 52 100 52 110 50 55 1 185 40 74 272 25 68 1 366 100 61 6 474,100 79 6 53 100 53 111 m 37' 8 186 100 62 273.100:39 7 368 25 92 1 475 20 95 1 54 100 o4 112 50 56 1 183 50 94 275 24 66 1 369,100 41 y 477 100 53 9 55 100 55 114 50 57; 1 189 100 27 276 25 69 1 370| 20 74 371,100 53 1 480 100 80 6 56 100 56 115 40 46 1 190 40 76 279 100 31 9 7 483! 100 69 7 100 57 116 50 58' 1 192 50 96 1 230 25 70 1 372 25 93 1 485 20 97 1 53 1(X),58 118 50 59 195 40 78 282 100 47 6 375 24,90 1 486 '100 81 6 59 100 59 120 45 54 196 50 98 284 285 •25 71 1 376 25 94 1 488 100 61 8 60 100 60 122 50 61 198 50 99 100 57 0 378 100 63 6 490 20 98 1 61 100 61 123 100 41 200 50 100 287 100 41 7 380 20 76 1 492 100 82 6 62 100 62 124 50 62 201 100 67 288 25 72 1 384 25 96 1 495 20 99 1 63 100 63 1 64 10<3 64 1 125 48 60 203 100 29 290 30 87 1 385 100 55 7 496 100 62 8 126 50 63 204 50 51 291 100 97 3 387 100 43 9 497 100 71 7 65 100 65; 1 128 50 64 205 •40 82 9q9 25 73 1 388 25 97 1 498 100 83 6 66 10<3 66 129 100 43 207 100 69 3 294 50 49 3 390 20 78 1 500 20 100 1 67 100 67 130 50 65 208 50 52 0 295 100 59 5 392 25 98 1 68 100 68 132 50 66 210 30 63 i 296 25 74 1 395! 20 79 1 69 100 69 134 50 67 212 50 53 2 297 100 99 3 396 25 99 1 70 100 70 135 40 54 215 100 43 5 300 25 75 1 399 100 57 7 71 100 71 136 50 68 216 50 54 2 304 25 76 1 400 20 80 1 72 100 79 138 50 69 217 100 31 7 305 100 61 5 405 20 81 1 73 100 1 73 140; 40 56 1 1 219 100 73 8 306 ICH) 51 1 6 406 100 58 ! i < SLASHING. 265 SLASHER COMBS. In the process of slashing warp yarns it has been customary to use a single comb with upright teeth to divide the warp sheet evenly so that an even beam may be wound. This comb separates the threads into a series of groups; the threads of each group take a position one above another, so that each group is traveling in a vertical plane towards the beam. As the beam and press rolls are in a horizontal position, the several groups of threads must change from a vertical to a horizontal plane when wound upon the beam. In the old way this change is accomplished at random; some groups turn to one side, and some to the other; often they reverse. As a result of this lack of regularity, ''slasher rolls,'' so-called, form in the beam of yarn which make trouble in the weave room. These slasher rolls cause ''hitch-backs" and warp breakage which reduce the quantity and injure the quality of the cloth woven. To obviate these troubles we offer the Morrill patent slasher comb, which is of greatest value on high sley and plain goods, and yarns with high twist; also the Rhoades' patent slasher comb which we recommend for low sley goods, stripes, colored work and for general use. The Morrill Slasher Comb. The Morrill Slasher Comb is so constructed that the threads are laid on the warp beam in regular sequence. The improvement consists in placing a second comb having slanting teeth in front of the regular comb; this second comb also has its teeth offset horizontally with relation to the teeth in the back comb. The slanting of the teeth in the front comb and their offset with relation to the 266 SLASHING. vertical teeth in the back comb give the groups of threads a quarter turn and hold them firmly so they will not change their relation either to adjacent threads, or to adjacent groups of threads. As the warp threads cannot roll or turn over upon each other, '^slasher rolls" and ''draws" are eliminated. By their use the operator can strike in the warps and thus save time over counting in the ends. The combs are made adjustable in the usual manner; the application to the slasher is simple; the device is easy to operate and does not interfere with the working of the slasher. The two combs are so connected that both may be operated as one, or each adjusted separately, as may be required. These combs have been in use for several years; the}^ have shown an improvement in the preparation of the warps in all cases; in a test at one mill ten per cent, more cloth was produced in the weave room. Detailed View of Morrill Comb. SLASHING. 267 The Rhoades Slasher Comb, the teeth of which have two prongs each where the warps run, doubles the number of separations in the warp and largely prevents the threads from sticking, rolling over and crossing; beams slashed where this comb is used run much better in the weave room and show an improvement in the quality of the cloth produced. Rhoades Patent Double-Dent Slasher Comb. 268 CHAIN D YE IMG. Straw's Winding Machine. The Straw system and machines for applying and removing the binding yarn used on long chains in the bleachery or dye-house are among the most important improvements in their field that we have introduced. By this system the yarns are kept in proper relative position in passing through the boiling-box and dyeing process and until ready to be beamed or quilled. In the unwinding machine the binding yarn is removed and wound upon a spool in condition to be used again for the same purpose, or to be utilized with similar yarn in the CHAIN DYEING. 269 manufactured goods. The use of this system will make a saving of at least one-half the cost of beaming, while in the weave-room the improvement in the condition of the yarn will make an additional saving of as much more, besides insuring a better quality of product. The illustration shows a winding machine of four spindles, but this number may be more or less to meet the conditions in each individual case. The binding yarn is seen in cones from which it is led to the point where it is wrapped around the chains of passing yarn. The illustration of unwinding machine on page 270 shows its simplest form. After the wrapped chains have been bleached or colored and dried, the thread coiled around the chain must be unwrapped before the chains are rewound either onto beams for warp yarns or onto bobbins, if for filling. The unwinding machine as shown unwinds the wrapping yarn from the chain and winds it upon a large spool as seen in the centre of the machine. In case the ratio of the linear speed of the chain and the rotary speed of the flier becomes out of proportion the operative must change the relative speed so as to prevent breakage of the yarn, etc. To avoid bad work and reduce the cost of operation the unwinding machine may be provided with an automatic regulating device as shown in illustration on page 271. The use of this device enables an operative to care for more miachines and at the same time do better work and with less labor. The winding and unwinding machines are in general use in nearly all the important colored goods mills of the country. 270 CHAIN D YEING, Unwinding Machine Without Patent Regulating Device. CHAIN D YEING. 271 Unwinding Machine With Connelly Patent Regulating Device. 272 TWISTING, G Model Twister. TWISTING. 273 TWISTIB^RS. Soon after the introduction of the Sawyer spindle, about forty years ago, recognizing the call for an improved machine, our predecessors designed and placed upon the market the first twister containing high speed spindles. This machine was in advance of the times in twister construction; the spindles weighed but one-half the weight of the old common spindles previously in use, and they turned off a greater product per spindle at a large saving in power. Since that time we have brought out many other Twister. Geared End with Covers Removed. 274 TWISTING. improvements, including the Rabbeth spindle; the box rail construction for twister frame; the Hetherington spindle brake; the all-metal top and creel; the Smith stop motion; Rhoades' novelty yarn attachments; adjustable feet for Sampsons; etc. In the process of twisting it is desirable to use spindles adapted to as high speed as consistent with the character of the yarn to be twisted. This in turn calls for machines with plenty of material and designed with view of carrying the load with the least possible vibration. Our twisters are very heavy; all joints in the frames are machined together; the sampsons have adjustable feet to accommodate variations in floor level; the gears in head end are all protected by covers held in place by automatic locking devices; the spindle rails are of heavy box pattern; the ring rails are provided with deep flanges making them rigid and are made in short sections with two lifting rods each; all gears on our twisters are machine cut, have wide faces and are interchangeable; we arrange our twist gears directly on the end of cylinder shaft, thereby securing a greater range with less changes, and the gears make less noise when in motion; the traverse motion is fitted for change gears so that the speed of the ring rail can be adjusted without changing the twist; by use of a lever clutch the worm of traverse motion can be thrown out of gear so that the ring rail may be lowered at any time when necessary; the spindles used in our twisters are of the Rabbeth type and are made in our own works, by machines of our special design which insure accuracy and uniformity in all particulars. The illustrations of our number 105 spindle show details as usually made. The bolster is locked by a spline which enters a slot, and the step is held in place by a spring connection which can be readily changed in position when adjustment is necessary. These spindles are made in four sizes:— Number 105, used with rings up to and including 23^ inch. Number 106, used with rings 2% to 334 inch. Number 107, used with rings 3>< to 4 inch. Number 108, used with rings 434 and 434 inch. We can furnish the number 105 spindle with centrifugal clutch bobbin drive, if desired. TWISTING. Number 105 Spindle. With Patent Centrifugal Clutch. TWISTING. Draper With Solid Whorl. TWISTING, 277 Our twister rings have the benefit of over forty years' experience in the manufacture of rings and in hardness, finish, uniformity and roundness are the best that can be produced. We illustrate the several types of rings used on our twisters. With vertical twister rings 3 inch diameter or more we recommend the Carter oiling device which lubricates the traveler below its contact with the yarn thereby allowing a material increase in speed. Narrow Vertical Ring in Plate Holder. Double Ring with Flat Top in Cast Iron Holder. 278 TWISTING. Single Ring with Flat Top. Wide Vertical Ring. C'"' Oiling Devi' Tor Vertical Ivvister Rings. Oil hole PLUG- TWISTING, 279 The Smith Tv/ister Stop Motion is the only practical device for the purpose that has ever been placed on the market. Its use on two-ply work eliminates waste; prevents roller laps; enables the help to tend more spindles; and in some cases allows the speed to be increased. If a band breaks on a spindle the stop motion will hold the end until the new band is applied. Broken ends are held in place and do not lash around to break others. The stop motion does not unthread during the process of doffing. With more than two ply, it stops only when the entire thread breaks in front of the rolls. The extension of sheet metal at the back makes a signal which indicates to the operator when an end is broken. This stop motion is not recommended for wet twisting and can only be applied where a single line of top and bottom rolls is used, with the yarn delivered from the under side of the bottom roll, as shown in illustration. The device is of much more value on worsted than on cotton yarn owing to the greater value of the waste saved. We are prepared to furnish these stop motions for twisters of other make. 280 TWISTING n Heavy Twister Spindle with Brake. Our twister spindles may be provided with spindle brakes, which are important on the heavy spindles. We illustrate the number 108 spindle with brake as it would be mounted on the rail of the twister; the friction pad is lined with leather and pressure of the knee against the TWISTING. 281 overhanging part of the brake quickly stops the spindle. The brake can be readily disconnected if desired. A guard rail is applied to the front of the twister to protect the brakes from injury by passing trucks. We usually build twisters to twist from horizontal spools located in creels at the top of the machines. We can make them to twist from beams if desired; also to twist from upright tubes or bobbins; in the last named arrangement Rhoades' patent combination step or bearing gives a choice between a glass step which reduces the friction and a cast iron step with more contact surface when more friction is needed. For the novelty yarns which can be made on ring twisters we recommend Rhoades' patent attachments. By the use of change gears and cams a wide range of patterns may be produced in as many as four colors. They can be applied to outstanding twisters of our make. Our special circular in colors illustrates many of the designs which may be easily produced. On wet twisters we provide brass water pans containing glass rods under which the yarn is drawn in the process of twisting. These glass rods are raised from the pan and thrown back out of the way by use of a lever, as shown in the illustrations. The water may be drawn from the pans through an outlet provided for that purpose. 282 TWISTING. Water Pan with Glass Rods Thrown Back. TWISTING. We offer two models of twister. G MODEL with spindles driven by round bands. H MODEL with spindles driven in groups of four each by fiat tape G Model Twister for Heavy Work. 284 TWISTING. Our G Model Twister is the standard machine which has been on the market for several years. The illustration on page 285 shows a machine with small rings and that on page 283 the machine for heavy work. This model has 8 inch cylinders; with outrigger bearing near pulleys; it measures 38 inches across the frame; it may be adapted for either wet or dry twisting; the rolls are either single line top and bottom, single line top and double line bottom, or both top and bottom double; we use the well known Rabbeth type of spindle illustrated on pages 275-6; knee brakes are recommended on the heavy spindle twisters, and may be furnished if desired on the lighter spindle machines; machines are usually arranged to twist from creels but may be built to twist from beams, or from vertical spools, if preferred; in the latter case Rhoades' patent friction arrangement is desirable with alternative glass steps for tender yarns; flat top rings of 2)A inches diameter or less are usually double rings in cast iron holders; larger than 23^ inch flat top are solid single rings; for vertical rings 2>< inches diameter or less the narrow vertical pattern in plate holder is used; larger sizes than 2>^ inches diameter are in the wide vertical pattern without holder; band rings are also preferred in some cases on wet twisting; see ring illustrations on pages 277-8; the usual traverse is six inches, but may be longer or shorter if desired; the building motion may be for warp wind, two headed bobbins, warp wind single head bobbin, filling wind, or a combination motion that will build either; the number of ply may be as desired from two-ply up; the Smith stop motion, for which a small additional charge is made, is recommended on two-ply dry twisting; machines are equipped with wire-board lifters. Machines are usually geared to drive both sides together, but may be geared independently if so ordered; the twister may have Rhoades' patent measuring device; all of our twisters may be equipped for making a wide range of novelty yarns in as high as four colors; an additional charge is made for these last two attachments; a special yarn traverse motion may also be furnished to traverse the yarn on the rolls. The cuts on page 282 show our arrangement of water pan for wet twisting and the means for raising the rods from the water pan. H Model Twister. 286 TWISTING, H Model Twister. Our H Model Twister was designed primarily to meet the requirements of the worsted trade. For years worsted twisters had been equipped with spindles driven by flat bands or tapes; users of such machines claimed that they produced yarns of more uniform twist; that the tapes lasted much longer than round bands and that there was a saving of power in tape driven machines as compared with the band drive. The machines previously constructed were so arranged in conveying the power from cylinder to spindles that it was necessary to have the machine much wider than with a band drive. As floor space is expensive we determined to build a twister that would at least be no wider than our standard machine. Our special arrangement includes a ten inch cylinder located away from the center of machine, and connected with the spindles in groups of four spindles each. A patented idler pulley in self oiling floating bearings is mounted between cylinder and spindles to take up the slack of the tape and with an adjustable weight to regulate the amount of tension. The H Model twister measures the same in width and admits of the same options, range of sizes, etc., as on G Model twister; for details see page 284. T WIST IN G, 287 Draper 105 Twister Spindles WITH Whorls FOR Tape Drive. With Patent Centrifugal Clutch. With Solid Whorl. 288 TWISTING, TABLE OF TWIST GEARS FOR DRAPER COMPANY^S TWISTER. This table gives the number of teeth required in cylinder gears with a given stud gear to produce a theoretical twist ivith 8-inch cylinder and ^s-inch band. N'o allowance is made for contraction. Diameter of whorl . . . W2 314 1% IV4 IVs 1 78 Teeth in stud gear . . . 36 32 36 38 32 28 26 Teeth in cyl- TWIST. inder gear. 18 10.95 13.61 15.33 19.80 25.86 32.85 39.79 19 10.37 12.90 14.52 18.77 24.50 31.12 37.54 30 9.85 12.25 13.79 17.82 23.28 29.56 35.81 21 9.38 11.67 13.14 16.97 22.17 28.15 34.11 22 8.95 11.14 12.54 16.20 21.16 26.87 32.55 23 8.57 10.65 11.99 15.50 20.24 25.70 31.14 24 8.21 10.21 11.49 14.85 19.40 24.63 29.84 25 7.88 9.80 11.03 14.25 18.62 23.65 28.65 26 7.58 9.42 10.61 13.70 17.90 22.74 27.55 27 7.30 9.07 10.22 13.19 17.24 21.90 26.53 28 7.04 8.75 9.85 12.71 16.63 21.12 25.58 29 6.79 8.45 9.52 12.29 16.05 20.39 24.70 30 6.57 8.17 9.20 11.88 15.52 19.70 23.87 31 6.36 7.90 8.90 11.50 15.02 19.06 23.10 32 6.16 7.66 8.62 11.14 14.55 18.47 22.38 33 5.97 7.42 8.36 10.80 14.11 17.91 21.70 34 5.80 7.21 8.11 10.48 13.69 17.38 21.06 35 5.63 7.00 7.88 10.18 13.30 16.89 20.46 36 5.47 6.81 7.66 9.90 12.93 16.42 19.89 37 5.33 6.62 7.45 9.63 12.58 15.98 19.36 38 5.19 6.45 7.26 9.38 12.25 15.56 18.85 39 5.06 6.28 7.08 9.14 11.94 15.16 18.36 40 4.93 6.13 6.90 8.91 11.64 14.78 17.90 41 4.81 5.98 6.73 8.69 f 11.35 14.42 17.47 42 4.69 5.83 6.57 8.48 11.08 14.07 17.05 43 4.58 5.70 6.42 8.29 10.83 13.75 16.66 44 4.48 5.57 6.27 8.10 10.58 13.44 16.28 45 4.38 5.44 6.13 7.94 10.35 13.14 15.92 46 4.29 5.33 6.00 7.75 10.12 12.86 15.57 47 4.20 5.21 5.87 7.58 9.90 12.58 15.24 48 4.11 r^.io 5.75 7.42 9.70 12.32 14.92 49 4.02 5.00 5.63 7.28 9.50 12.07 14.62 50 3.94 4.90 5.52 7.13 9.31 11.82 14.32 51 3.87 4.80 5.41 6.98 9.13 11.59 14.04 52 3.79 4.71 5.31 6.85 8.95 11.37 13.77 This table is figured for G model Twister with 1% inch bottom roll, with a 90 tooth gear on the front roll and a 120 tooth jack gear. The ordinary ranges of twist required are given in the table. If any twist not given is necessary it can be obtained within a small fraction of a turn by changing both stud and cylinder gears. All gears are interchangeable and have same size nut, requiring but one size of wrench to make any change. TWISTING. 289 TABLE OF TWIST GEARS FOR DRAPER COMPANY'S H MODEL TWISTER. T%is table gives the number of teeth required in cylinder gears vnth a given stud gear to produce a theoretical twist ivith 10-inch cylinder and icith tape 1-11 inch thick; noalloioance is made for contraction. ■ . r JLlianieter oi 1% iVs 1 1 eecn in sluci gear . . . 36 32 36 38 32 28 26 Teeth in cyl- TWIST. inder gear 18 18.76 17.16 19.40 25.20 33.04 42.08 51.16 19 13.02 16.24 18.36 23.88 31.28 39.84 48.47 20 12.42 15.44 17^46 22.68 29.72 37.87 46.04 21 11.82 14.70 16.62 21.60 28.29 36.06 43.85 22 11.28 14.04 15 88 20.64 27.03 34.41 41.86 23 10.77 13.41 15.18 19*.74 25.83 32.91 40.04 24 10.32 12.87 14.55 18.90 24.78 31.56 38.37 25 9.94 12.36 13.96 18.15 23.79 30.27 36.84 26 9.53 11.88 13.44 17.45 22.85 29.12 35.42 27 9.19 11.43 12.92 16.80 22.00 28.04 34.11 28 8.85 11.03 12.48 16.20 21.23 27.05 32.89 29 8.55 10.65 12.03 15.65 20.50 26.11 31.75 30 8.28 10.30- 11.63 15.13 19.83 25.23 30.70 31 8.00 9.98 11.26 14.64 19.18 24.20 29.71 32 7.74 9 64 10.90 14.18 18 58 23 66 28 78 33 7.52 9.36 10.58 13.76 18.02 22^94 27.91 34 7.30 9.08 10.26 13.34 17.48 22.26 27.08 35 7.08 8.82 9.98 12.96 16.98 21.64 26.31 36 6.88 8.58 9.70 12.60 16.52 21.04 25.58 37 6.70 8.34 9.-^4 12.26 16.06 20.46 24.89 38 6.52 8.12 9.18 11.94 15.64 19.92 24.23 39 6.36 7.92 8.96 11.64 15.24 19.41 23.61 40 6.21 7.72 8.73 11.34 14.86 18.94 23.02 41 6.05 7.53 8.51 11.07 14.50 18.47 22.46 42 5.91 7.35 8.31 10.80 14.15 18.03 21.93 43 5.77 7.18 8.12 10.55 13.82 17.61 21.42 44 5.64 7.02 7.94 10.32 13.52 17.21 20.93 45 5.52 6.87 7.76 10.09 13.23 16.82 20.46 46 5.39 6.71 7.59 9.87 12.92 16.46 20.02 47 5.28 6.57 7.42 9.66 12.65 16.11 19.59 48 5.16 6.44 7.28 9.46 12.39 15.78 19.19 49 5.06 6.30 7.12 9.26 12.13 15.45 18.79 50 4.97 6.18 6.98 9.08 11.90 15.13 18.42 51 4.87 6.05 6.84 8.89 11.65 14.85 18.06 52 4.77 5.94 6.72 8.73 11.43 14.56 17.71 The above table is for H model twister only provided with V/y, inch bottom roll, with a 90 tooth gear on the front roll and a 120 tooth jack gear. The table includes the ordinary ranges of twist. If any twist not given is necessary it can be obtained within a small fraction of a turn by changing both stud and cylinder gears. All gears are interchangeable and have the same size nut, requiring but one size of wrench to make any change. 290 T WISTING. TWIST FORMULA For Our G Model Twister of Regular Construction. See Opposite Page for Tables. Roll Gear=90 Teeth. Jack Gear=120 Teeth. Diameter of Cylinder=8 inches. Diameter of Round Band=3^ inch or .125. (usual size.) Bottom Roll Diam.=l>< inches. Circum.=4.7124 inches. Formulae for Stud Gear Constants. T. in Roll (Jear X T. in Jack Gear X (dia. of Cyl. + dia. of Band) g^^^j q^^^, Circum. of Bottom Roll X T. in Stud Gear ~ Constant Stud Gear Constant =Twist per inch. (dia. of Whorl + \") X T. in Cyl. Gear Stud Gear Constant =T. in Cyl. Gear. (dia. of Whorl + 1^0 X Twist per inch Examples, based on Stud Gear of 30 teeth, Cylinder Gear of 32 teeth and IJ^'' diam. Whorl on Twister: 90 X 120 X 8 125 =620.703 Stud Gear Constant as per table. 4.7124 X 30 620.703 1.25 X 32 620.703 =15.52 Turns Twist per inch. =32 Teeth in Cyl. Gear. 1.25 X 15.5 Formulae for Whorl Constants. T. in Roll Gear X T. in Jack Gear X (dia. of Cyl. + dia. of Band) ^j^qj-j Circum. of Bottom Roll X (dia. of Whorl + dia. of Band) Constant Whorl Constant =Twist per inch. T. in Cyl. Gear X T. in Stud Gear Whorl Constant — =T. in Cyl. Gear. T. in Stud Gear X Twist per inch Examples, assuming IJ^'' dia. Whorl on Twister: 90 X 120 X 8.125 =14897 Whorl Constant as per table. 4.7124 X 1.25 14897 32 X 30 14897 30 X 15.5 =15.52 Turns Twist per inch. 52 Teeth in Cyl. Gear. T WI STING. 291 TABLE OF CONSTANTS FOR G MODEL TWISTER FOR USE WITH FORMULA TO DETERMINE THEORETICAL TWIST PER INCH OR NUMBER OF TEETH IN CYLINDER GEAR. Teeth ! Teeth WHORL IN IN CONSTANTS. Stud Constants. Stud Constants. Gear. Gear. DiAM. OF Whorl 18 1034.504 61 305.264 Whorl 19 980.057 62 300.340 IN Constants. 20 931.054 63 295.573 Inches 21 886.718 I 64 290.954 22 846.413 65 286.478 23 809.612 66 282.138 % 18621 24 775.879 67 277.927 1 16550 25 744.843 68 273.840 w% 14897 26 716.196 69 269.871 1^ 13542 27 689.670 ' 70 266.016 1% 12414 28 665.039 71 262.269 11459 29 642.106 72 258.626 10641 30 620.703 1 73 255.083 9931 31 600.680 74 251.636 2 8763 32 581.911 75 248.281 2M 7840 33 564.275 76 245.014 7094 34 547.679 ! 77 241.832 2% 6477 35 532.031 78 238.732 3 5959 36 517.252 79 235.710 37 503.273 80 232.764 - 38 490.028 81 229.890 39 477.464 82 227.086 40 465.527 83 224.350 41 454.173 84 221.680 42 443.359 85 219.072 43 433.048 86 216.524 44 423.206 87 214.035 45 413.802 88 211.603 46 404.806 89 209.226 47 396.193 90 206.901 48 387.939 91 204.627 49 QSrt 099 ooU. yjLiCt Q9 50 372.422 93 200.227 51 365.119 94 198.097 oz 358.098 95 196.011 53 351.341 96 193.970 54 344.835 97 191.970 55 338.565 98 190.011 56 332.519 99 188.092 57 326.686 100 186.211 58 321.053 59 315.612 60 310.351 TWISTING, TWIST FORMULAE For Our H Model Twister of Regular Construction. See Opposite Page for Tables. Roll Gear=90 Teeth. Jack Gear=120 Teeth. Diameter of Cylinder=10 inches. Thickness of Flat Tape=Vii inch or .09091. (usual thickness.) Bottom Roll Diam.=l>^ inches. Circum.=4.7124. Formula for Stud Gear Constants. T. in Roll Gear X T in Jack Gear X (dia. of Cyl. + th'k. of Tape) g^^^ q^^^ Circum. of Bottom Roll X T. in Stud Gear Constant Stud Gear Constant -=T\vist per inch. (dia. of Whorl + 1-11^0 X T. in Cyl. Gear Stud Gear Constant =T. in Cyl. Gear. (dia. of Whorl + 1-11^0 X Twist per inch Examples, based on Stud Gear of 30 teeth, Cylinder Gear of 32 teeth and 13/8 diam. Whorl on Twister: 90 X 120 X 10.09091 -=770.887 Stud Gear Constant as per table. 4.7124 X 30 770.887 1.21591 X 32 770.887 n9.81 Turns Twist per inch. =32 Teeth in Cyl. Gear. 1.21591 X 19.81 Formula for Whorl Constants. T. in Roll Gear X T. in Jack Gear X (dia. of Cyl. + th'k. of Tape)_^j^^j.j Circum. of Bottom Roll X (dia. of Whorl + th'k. of Tape) Constant Whorl Constant =Twist per inch. T. in Cyl. Gear X T. in Stud Gear Whorl Constant — =T. in Cyl. Gear. T. in Stud Gear X Twist per inch Examples, assuming 13^" dia. Whorl on Twister: 90 X 120 X 10.09091 4.7124 X 1.21591 ^=19020 Whorl Constant as per table. 19020 =19.81 Turns Twist per inch. 32 X 30 19020 =32 Teeth in Cyl. Gear. 30 X 19.81 TWISTING, •293 TABLE OF CONSTANTS FOR H MODEL TWISTER FOR USE WITH FORMULA TO DETERMINE THEORETICAL TWIST PER INCH. OR NUMBER OF TEETH IN CYLINDER GEAR. Teeth 1 Teeth WHORL Stud Gear j Stud Gear IN CONSTANTS. Stud i Constants, i Stud Constants. Gear. ' Gear. DiAM. Whorl OF 18 1 9Q/1 SI 1 Ol 070 -[OA 19 1 91 7 1 on ft9 Q7^ OOQ 0 i 0. uuy IN Constants. 20 iiOO. ooU ! Do 0A7 08Q OD 1 . uoy Inches 21 D4 001. 000 _ 22 oo qcc 700 000. 8 1 QA9A lyUZU 26 QQQ AQA \ 00^7.404 I AQ oy qqc Aao OOU. IDO 134 1 no AH 1 /z4( 27 oOO. D41 70 lU QQO 980 OOU. OOU IS/ 1/^ 10/ t 1 /I con' i40o < 29 7Q7 /1^?Q 79 091 OAO 0^1. ^UZ 1/^ 1 0 Ano 30 < lU. oo / 7Q QiA 809 010. ou^ 1/4 iZODO ol 1 4 Q1 9 C91 OX^.O^-L iiUoi 799 7n^? 1 7^^ lO Q08 OUO. 004 Ol / 2^ yo /y 33 7AA QC\a 7A lO ou*±. ^y 1 01/ 2>i oy^D d4 Oc5U. i£74 1 77 qOO 94"^ OUU. o40 35 DDU. -lOCO«N _w — j ~ H 5 ' 0(^^»cOiOrHlCo:>liO(^^.i0(?lOC»t^t^O»0OTt^^C0^C0C0C0C0C0C^Cl(?Qi--•Oi(^^^^ocoo5foo5co<^lGO»oc^OicDt^»ccorHCi^>.lOOi(?qr--ll>. CO-t^l:^t^t^t^CD Multiplier 3. 1] Pounds per Spindle. C10C10COOl>.«-^t^OCi^t>.0:>!T^i>.(?10C^C5iO<^10b^GCO't'0 oc5Cl^>•o^rHcz;^or^ocioo^*cDCDlOlC»ao^Ttlrt^'^cococ^c^(^^ '>:fCOCO'?^(M'5^i— li— o>coo No. of Yarn to be Twisted. COt^OOOO'M^OOOO'M'^CCCOO'T.GO 1 TWISTING, 297 Table Showing Number of Pounds of Twisted Yarn Produced in 10 Hours— 3 Ply. Front Roll Ij^ In. in Diameter in all Cases. i Multiplier 6. 1 Pounds per Spindle. Oioo^-i'^o^cor-lOOl:^c»Oicocooo<^^rt^^H^>.ocoo^cl'^^^^oo COc4G^.OrHOG0 1>-CDCO'rir-HlO<^lO Multiplier 5. 1 Pounds per Spindle. Or-l:D1-HO»0^>.OOGO^-HO--H»0^-O^OrH(XlC5^C10'^H,-^Ci05t>.^ Rev. per Minute of Roll. T-HCOOOCOCOOiCV5GO^COOCDTtlT-^C5l>-'^C^OCCt^COTtiCOCOrHCD rH T-H 1 Multiplier 4. Pounds per Spindle. Rev. per Minute of Roll. COC^C^i—iO-Hi-HOCiCSOOOCSGOCOGOCSOOGOGOOOCiCiCiOOOOGO rHi-Hr-HrHr— IrHrHrH r-li— ( Multiplier 3. | Pounds per Spindle. Rev. per Minute of Roll, j »O.QC No. of Yarn to be Twisted. C0t--Q00:>Ol>.Q0 298 TWISTING. Table Showing Number of Pounds of Twisted Yarn Produced in 10 Hours— 4 Ply. Front Roll V/^ In. in Diameter in all Cases. T3 X 3 *^ C 5 CX.g^ TjHCO•occ<3I»^^-<^loo<^^oc<^ 1 Multip Rev. per Minute of Roll. licr 5. Pounds per Spindle. CO CO CO 1 Multip Rev. per Minute of Roll. CDQO.G<10COQOTj^OGSa5CDCOOaOCOGO<:0'^(?^OrHOOOrHrH^ OC5C5GOOCOS(X)t>.t-^t>«QOt>-t>.|>.|>.COCDt>.r>.|>.t>.|>-QOOOl>.l>-QOI>» lier 4. Pounds per Spindle. IOCCrHrH0CC:iG.Oi'^CD050rHCOOaOCD'^CO(>ICOC^lrHr-lOrHOOt>.l>-<:D 1 Multip Rev. per Minute of Roll. C0C0OCiC0C0lCQ0'^^^^C0Q0»0^HQ0l000Q0»C)^HO00C<^OQ005rH^0 CO(Mr-iOOrHOCiC5GOOC5C50:iQOGOCOOi050ia5COOOOiQ0005 r-lrHr— Ir- Ii—It— Ir-i i— 1 i— IrH rH Her 3. Pounds per Spindle. '^^OOOCDOOCO-:t^CCQOO(y?CDt^05lO'^rH00505Tt.'.CDOTtlCOOCOCCC^rHCOCOC^<^^fHr-^rHCOC^C^ClrHJOOOCOrHCO<^^ Weight of Yarn in Pounds on Bobbin. 1.160 .855 .645 .420 .331 .180 Dia. of Bobbin Barrel. :^ :^ ^ y-^ rH rH Dia. of Ring in Inches. \^ \N \« ^ CO CO Si iM Rev. of Spindle per Minute. oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo (?q(M(M. 00 300 TWISTING. .2 .s .s s- - « c i .s % « - d i a a a REELING, 301 Our Standard Reel. We took up the manufacture of reels years ago as they naturally belonged in the group of machines comprising warpers, spoolers and twisters. Reels have been sold at such low prices that we have confined our efforts to making a superior machine without any attempt to compete with the low prices offered on an inferior article. In construction, our machine is heavy and designed to be operated without excessive vibration. The shaft in the swift is of wood which is the best material for the purpose; truss rods give the swift added stiffness; the bearing on the driven end is hung in a ball and socket joint so that it cannot be strained in lifting the swift for removal of the yarn; the bearing on the opposite end is so protected as to prevent oiling the skeins while being removed; the releasing arms have metal bearings fitted in metal boxes. Our traverse motion is geared and positive and may be arranged either for winding plain skeins or for the so-called Grant cross-wind. 302 REELING, The bobbin box has a waste box at each end. We build the reels with dead spindles for cops or for bobbins with filling wind; with live spindles for warp wind bobbins; or for twister bobbins; each spindle is removable independent of the others. We furnish a clock with gong to strike at each 840 yards; or at such other specified length as may be desired. We also furnish a change gear clock with stop motion similar to that used on our ball warpers where it is important to measure a variety of lengths of skein; an additional charge is made for this clock. We furnish swifts either 54, 60 or 72 inch. We do not make adjustable swifts, having found them unsatisfactory. The gauge of our reels may be from 2 inch to 5 inch as desired. REEL PRODUCTION. Our reel production table is based upon the theoretical product if in continuous operation. As reels are stopped a very large percentage of the possible running time a deduction must be made to cover what is found to be the average loss from stoppage in each mill. The table represents in pounds per spindle of single yarn, ten hours continuous product in the various numbers specified. The table starts with number 10 as the coarsest. For numbers 1 to 9 inclusive, take the products for 10 to 90 and multiply by 10. Example: The product of a reel with 54 inch swift at 120 revolutions per minute on number 5 yarn would be the product of number 50 yarn (2.57 pounds) multiplied by 10= 25.7 pounds. REELING. 303 Reel Production Tables— Theoretical Continuous Result in Pounds per Spindle PER Day of Ten Hours. 1 72 Inch Reel. i i g 1 1 8 16.07 14.60 13.39 12.36 11.47 10.71 10.04 9.45 8.93 8.46 8.04 7.65 730 6.99 6.70 0.43 6.18 5.95 5.74 5.54 5.35 4.01 3.21 2.68 2.29 2.01 1.78 1.60 54 Inch Reel. \\ i " 13.92 12.65 11.60 10.70 9.94 9.28 8.70 8.19 7.74 7.33 6.96 6.63 6.33 6.05 5.30 5.57 5.36 5.16 4.97 4.80 4.64 3.48 2.78 2.32 1.99 1.74 1.55 1.39 ' § No. Yarn. 304 REELING. -1- CO CO \« CO CO CO CO CO N'T M\ CO CO «t co' ' .'^ CO :^ ci CO ;^ Cl CI 1— ( 1 1— t rH \^} f-l \M rH \cc CI ^nCO rH i-H cq \(N 1— XW CI be .2 ^ ^ c c g £ M ni 'X 1^ tl] c ^ ^ o rs V, ° o s C/3 O C/D CI ^ lO CO I f-. CO I rH ^ 1 GO O CI ^iO ' rH O CI > o I w CO rH O rH rH_ lO o rH o rH r-" CO GO O O a H O CO CO »o rH 1-H r^ ^ rH CI 00 00 rH rH 00 O CI lO CI CO rH d CO ^ o T-^ O rH O CI rH Cq CO CD 1^ 00 cq CO CO o cq CO OOC50rHCqCO'c o o cqcoco^Tt^iJOiocDco WE A VING. 305 THE NORTHROP LOOM. The Northrop loom, invented and developed by us, has been for a number of years our main product. Its inception, rapid development and manifest advantages are matters of common knowledge to the textile trade. In cotton we are prepared to furnish our automatic loom for everything woven with one shuttle except the heavier grades of duck, and in worsted and woolen we cover a large field of one shuttle weaves. Within its range the Northrop loom has reached the position of determining weaving costs. This cost averages one-half the cost on common looms. The controlling interests of a mill using common looms where the goods are in direct competition with Northrop Loom woven goods have to face the fact that they are asking their manufacturing department to carry the burden of a weaving cost double that of better equipped competitors; and weaving is by far the most expensive labor item in a cotton mill. Our contribution to the art of weaving — The Northrop Loom- has cut in half the cost of weaving. Within the last few years a large number of important patented devices have been added to the loom which have materially enhanced its value. We are constantly adding to our knowledge by experiments which result in patented devices, a number of which have passed the practical test of mill conditions and have been adopted for our commercial product. The aggregate of these patents is large in number and added refinements keep us seventeen years ahead of the open art. A comparison of the loom we put out today with that of seventeen years ago furnishes evidence that during this period we have been active. There has been an increase in the effectiveness of our loom by such improvements as cut gears, grinding the take-up roll and the use of lock washers. We now cut by machinery the gears on our looms. It adds to the cost and also adds to the value of the loom in smooth running and especially in the evenness of the take-up motion. This gives a better product as the cloth comes true to count in picks per inch. Grinding the take-up roll to a certain size is another contribution to better cloth. All of our loom-frames and girts are milled, the girts being milled to exact length so that the looms are 306 IVEA VING. uniform and the frames set up in correct alignment. Lock washers are another important improvement, in that the various parts of the loom, subject as it is to constant vibration caused by the beat-up of the lay and the picking of the shuttle, are securely locked in place. Our three great additions to the art of weaving in the Northrop Loom are the changing of filling by changing the bobbin in the running shuttle to take care of the problem of replenishing the filling; the first practical and successful warp stop-motion to stop the loom upon the failure of a warp thread, and the filling feeler. The filling feeler is a natural result of perfecting the first two elements where the quality of goods permits no partial or double picks. It changes the filling in the running shuttle before the supply is completely exhausted, thus making perfect cloth. Number 3 Battery. Taking up the first of our great improvements, the changing of the bobbin, the cut represents our standard No. 3 battery a number of features of which we control by patents. This is the same type 25-bobbin battery we have been using, having found it thoroughly satisfactory. WE A VING, 307 Number 3 Battery Feeding Mechanism. The feeding mechanism of our No. 3 battery shown is representative of the larger part of our battery feeds; the transferrer, transferrer-fork, top holder, and bobbin support are all of the usual type. 308 WE A VING. Number 14 Battery for Worsteds. Our No. 14 battery for worsteds is designed to give a short filling end and is used on looms where the value of the filling is very high per pound. The second great advance in the art of weaving we made on warp stop-motions; a motion on a loom which we were the first to reduce to practical conditions and introduce to the trade. We have a line of motions for the various conditions met in weaving. Highness of sley, breaking strength of w^arp and the capacity to stand relatively harsh usage by the harness motion all have to be considered. A certain number of ends per inch of 60s and of 8s present different warp stop problems, just as 60s and 8s are different yarns in the harness motion. WE A VING. 309 Number 2 Single-Thread Warp Stop-Motion. Our No. 2 single thread warp stop-motion is used on low or medium sley and has the advantage of being a motion where it is easy to find the broken end. The No. 8 is like the No. 2 except it has three banks of drop wires to handle a slightly higher sley. We also make four-bank stop-motions of this type. IVEA V/JVG. Number 7 Single-Thread Warp-Stop. The cut shows our No. 7 single thread warp stop-motion. This stop-motion has the advantage of reducing chafing of the warp threads because its short drop wires are hung on the under shed of the leased warp. The drop wires are short enough to prevent their coming in contact with any of the threads in the upper lease, and consequently while an end has to pass through its own drop wire in one bank it does not have to come in contact with any drop wire in the other bank. Thus the chafing coming from passing through another bank of drop wires is entirely avoided and at the same time the number of ends per inch while each end is passing through its drop wire is cut in two. This results in a material reduction of warp breakage. WE A VING. 311 Twine Harness 1898 Warp Stop-Motion. Certain weaves are so organized that more than one end can be drawn in one drop wire. This is shown in our single-bank '98 twine harness stop-motion. Where this occurs the mill gets the advantage of less drop wires to buy and handle. The mill has, however, to keep the looms on cloth so organized as to use this type of motion. 312 WE A VING. Double Steel Harness. 2 Shades. In some cases where the strength of warp and the ease of weave warrants, we use our double steel harness stop-motion. Its advantages are the combining of harness and stop-motion, giving but one drawing in for a broken end, and one set of parts to handle for redrawing a new warp. We also build this motion to take as high as five harnesses. The third great field developed by us arose from the fact that we had successfully solved the problem of making practical a filling changer and a warp stop-motion. On some qualities of goods mis-picks are a blemish so that we have to avoid them and this resulted in our perfecting a filling feeler 313 WE A VING, which calls for a change of filling while there is a perfect pick in the cloth and before complete exhaustion of filling in the running shuttle. Number 8 Feeler. From time to time we have introduced to the trade a number of types of feelers and after years of experience have reached a point where the greater part of our customers use our No. 8 finished feeler which measures between the disappearing yarn mass on the bobbin and the outside wall of the shuttle. Shuttle for the Straw System. 314 WE A VING. We have recently introduced to the trade the Straw feeler system which operates through the agency of a slotted bobbin. The feeler finger enters the shuttle and is driven back by coming in contact with filling. When the predetermined period of exhaustion is reached the feeler finger enters a slot in the bobbin uncovered by filling winding off during the weaving operation, remains quiescent and causes a change of filling. This system has given very satisfactory results in a number of mills. We are also using in a number of mills our No. 15 needle feeler. This feeler operates on the principle of relative penetrability. It has protruding beyond its larger contact surface a needle point backed by a spring strong enough to maintain the point in its forward position as long as this point comes in contact with filling. The filling being relatively easily penetrated by the needle point allows the point to sink into its mass and does not overcome the strength of the spring. When, is woven off enough to allow the in contact with the hard surface of the bobbin the resistance of the spring is overcome and a change of filling caused before its complete exhaustion. This device has gone into use in some mills. In connection with our feeler we recommend the use on the spinning frame of one of our patented devices to produce a preliminary winding or reserve supply of filling of short traverse. Of necessity some yarn must be ejected with the out-going bobbin and this quantity will be smallest if the traverse at the time of transfer be as short as practical. We build these devices for all spinning frames in use in our customers' mills. ■ Straw Bobbin. however, the filling needle point to come WE A VING. 315 High Roll Take-up. Spur Gear. 316 WE A VING, High Roll Take-up. Worm and Worm Gear. Our take-up motions are of two types, spur gear and worm. With the introduction of cut gears and the advantages that come from the perfected action of these gears, the tendency is more and more towards the worm take-up, although on certain grades of goods the spur gear take-up is still used. The high roll take-up introduced by us and generally used on our looms has the advantage of enabling a much larger quantity of cloth to be wound on the take-up cloth roll shaft than was possible on the low roll take-up. On some types of goods where heavy pick goods are used and where the goods are full, it is advisable to interpose some means to take up the oscillating pull on the cloth between the fell and the take-up roll. This pull results in chafing the cloth on the take-up roll and putting a strain through it on the train of gears in the take-up motion. IVEA VING. 317 Nutting Take-Up. Various Methods of Operating. Nutting High Roll Worm Take-up. For this purpose we use our patent Nutting Take-up and the cloth is drawn in various ways over and around the cloth guides as the grade of cloth demands. We also have a corduroy take-up which handles very high pick goods, and is a combination between the high and low roll take-up. 318 WE A VING. Draper-Roper Let-off. Our Draper-Roper let-off has gone into extensive use and for the majority of looms is the best let-off. For evenness of let-off, through its capacity to let off at each pick and at the same time to increase its amount on any pick where the strain on the whip roll has become great, it is unexcelled. It is also so designed that with the diminishing diameter of the yarn mass on the yarn beam, the normal length of stroke of the pick pawl is gradually increased, thus automatically keeping the tension of yarn from full to empty beam uniform. Where the character of the goods requires it we use other types of let off. WE A VING. Draper-Roper Let-off with Vibrating Whip Roll. There is a large use of this let-off in combination with the vibrating whip roll. This predetermined motion of the whip roll is an aid to some kinds of weaving in that it tightens the warp between the whip roll and fell of the cloth and is timed to meet the requirements of various weaves. The goods woven on the Northrop Loom are now so diversified that a great variety of harness-motions are in use on our looms, side cams, dobby, jacquard, roll and shaft, in fact all the harness motions used in single-shuttle weaving. 320 WE A VING, Lacey Top. This cut and the following one represent two types of harness-motion patented and introduced by us. The Lacey top harness-motion can be used either for 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 harnesses, where there are multiple shades of even sequence. DwiGHT Spring Top. We have developed our Dwight Top to take care of cases where it is desired to set each harness independently and where the sequence is irregular and can be made for as high as eight harnesses. WE A VI NG, 321 The two main accessories necessary for the operation of a Northrop loom are bobbins and shuttles. These two adjuncts are bought at the same time as the loom and being made of wood wear out much faster than the loom itself, in the case of the shuttle the usuage being both violent and constant. Our customers know this and we know it. We manufacture these two articles with quality our first consideration. We realize that they are relatively perishable elements, and the better we can make them the better for the running of the loom, and the better for our customers. Northrop Loom Bobbins and Cop Skewers. As to bobbins, we have for some years manufactured our own bobbins from tree to loom. Our complete bobbin blank plant, our specially designed machinery and our personal interest in the success of the Northrop Loom all contribute to our making bobbins of the first quality. We furnish cop skewers and the same care and interest go into their make-up as is put into our bobbins. 322 WE A VING, V Northrop Loom Shuttles. Northrop Loom Shuttles. 324 IVEA VING. Our shuttles are manufactured with the same end in view, the best possible product. We want Northrop loom users to buy their most important supply from us because we know how essential a properly made shuttle is to the loom. Our best types of shuttles can be secured nowhere else; they are a patented product and are sold only for use in looms made by us or our licensees. The illustrations show the more commonly used types of springs and eyes and cover the great majority of all outstanding shuttles. LOOM REPAIRS. On the permanent parts of the looms we advocate persistently that Northrop Loom repairs be bought from us as Northrop Loom Builders. Our service is unequalled. We make it a point to give first attention to repair orders. The best way to cultivate the field for orders for new looms is to keep such looms as we have in the mills in the best of running order and making cloth. Local foundries cannot have the same interest that we do nor can they make as good castings from our castings as patterns as we can from the original patterns. Even assuming the use of patterns, they do not appreciate the importance of correct sizes and shapes of parts for they cannot realize the relation of one part to another or to the whole as we must, nor can they get the necessary information. They have no access to the drawings from which we make our patterns and it is impossible to take a finished casting with its variation from its pattern and make a pattern to duplicate the original. Where machining is necessary the machine shop in the mill has not our fixtures and cannot give duplicate results. Where trouble is to be looked up in the operation of a particular loom, past experience is of no aid if a repair casting has been put into the mechanism that is not from the same pattern as the broken piece. This means a return to fundamentals and a long delay in clearing the ground that would be entirely unnecessary if our castings be used throughout. Service is another consideration that should weigh very heavily with a mill. An idle loom is making no money and a constant worry to ambitious wide-awake overseers. The mill, because its order is so small in proportion to the total output of a local foundry, cannot be its first consideration. With us, service for the mill is the first consideration. WE A VING. 325 Speeds Recommended for Northrop Looms for Medium Weight Goods. 28" ' ■■ ■ 185 to 190 ! 1 64" ■ 1 24 to 1 28 :^0" 180 to 185 ' 6S" 120 to 124 32" 175 to ISO 1 72" 116 to 120 34" 170 to 175 1 76" 112 to 116 36" 165 to 170 1 80" 108 to 112 3S" 163 to 168 1 84" 104 to 108 40" 160 to 165 1 88" 100 to 104 42" 154 to 158 90" 100 to 104 44" 148 to 152 1 96" 96 to 100 46" 144 to 148 1 100" 92 to 96 48" 140 to 144 1 104" 90 to 94 52" 136 to 140 1 108" 88 to 92 56" 132 to 136 \ 110" 86 to 90 60" 128 to 132 The following cuts illustrate our leading models of loom. They are designed to meet various cloth conditions, varying weaves. It would be impossible to divide and assign to each class of goods a particular loom to be invariably used. In settling this question our customers have the benefit of our long experience and careful consideration of the cloth desired to be produced. Our various models cover however a range which among other goods includes: — Broad and narrow sheetings, pillow tubing, seamless bags, chambrays, blankets, flannels, ginghams, coutils, wide and narrow convertible goods, Jacquard woven bedspreads, worsted dress goods, standard print cloths, turkish towels, book cloths, corduroys, hollands, domets, velvets, drills, **Red Cross'' bandages and surgeons' specialties, warp and filling sateens, automobile cloths, cottonades, saxony cloth, flannelettes, osnaburgs, shirtings, tickings, coarse specialties, fine silk and cotton goods, oil cloth goods, crash towels, cambrics, flat duck, stripes, denims, lawns, jeans, Jacquard woven specialties, khaki goods for United States and other governments, table cloths and damasks, worsted linings, curtain fabrics, Marseilles quilts, asbestos goods, seersuckers, skirtings, organdies, percales, mosquito nettings, very fine fancy goods, awnings, twills, Marquisettes, wide print cloths, outing cloths, shade cloths, fancy dobby weaves, covert cloths, percales, dimities, cheviots, alpacas, crepes, silesias, etc. 326 IVEA VING. Modified D Model Worsted Loom. The loom shown in this cut is equipped with 20 harness Crompton & Knowles Intermediate head, Center fork stop-motion, Side fork at Battery end. No. 8 Finished Feeler, No. 14 Battery, Low Roll Spur Gear Take-up, extra heavy Friction Let-off, Yielding Whip Roll. IVEA VING. 327 The loom shown in this cut has Roll and Shaft Top, String Harness, Cams on Cam Shaft, High Roll Spur Gear Take-up, Single Fork, No. 3 Battery, Tight and Loose Pulleys, No. 2 Single Thread Warp Stop-Motion, Bartlett and Chain Friction Let-Off. IVEA VING. 36 Inch E Model Loom. The loom shown in this cut is equipped with Lacey Top, Cams on Auxiliary Shaft (4 shade), String Harness, Single Fork provided for Feeler, No. 15 Battery, Tight and Loose Pulley, High Roll Spur Gear Take-Up, No. 8 Single Thread Warp Stop-Motion. IVEA VING. 329 E Model Loom. The loom shown in this cut has for equipment the D wight Spring Top, String Harness, 5 Shade Cams on Auxiliary Shaft, Single Fork, No. 13 Battery, High Roll Worm Take-up, No. 5 Stimpson Selvage Motion, No. 8 Single Thread Warp Stop-Motion. 330 IVEA VING. E Model Side Cam Bag Loom. The loom shown in this cut has Side Cam-motion for bag weave, No. 26 Special Bagging Take-up with Spike Roll, and chain for controlling length of bags. Steel Harness Warp Stop-Motion, Double Fork, No. 3 Battery and Tight and Loose Pulleys. WE A VING. 3:ii H Model Loom. The loom shown in this cut has Side Cam Motion, Semi-Low Roll Take-Up, Corduroy type, Worm Drive, No. 3 Battery, Single Fork with Feeler, Vibrating Whip Roll, vibrating from Swords, No. 2 Single Thread Warp Stop-Motion. 332 VING, K Model Loom. The loom shown in this cut has 20 Harness Crompton & Knowles Stafford type of Dobby; also cross shaft type of Roll and Shaft Top suspended from Dobby arches, Single Fork, No. 8 Finished Feeler, No. 5 Battery for Cops, Disc Friction Pulley, High Roll Worm Take-Up, Whip Roll with Durkin Preventer, No. 7 Single-Thread Warp Stop-Motion. WE A VING, 333 The loom shown in this cut is equipped with Roll and Shaft Top String Harness, 2 Shade cams on Auxiliary Shafts, High Roll Spur Gear Take-Up, Single Fork, No. 3 Battery, Easy Shipping Motion, Disc Friction Pulley, Auxiliary Drive, Cut Driving Gears, No. 2 Single-Thread Warp Stop-Motion, Compound Let-off for 2-piece Beam. L Model Loom with Jacquard. WEA VING. 335 P Model Loom. The loom shown in this cut has the Dwight Spring Top, 5 Shade Cams on Auxiliary Shaft, String Harness, No. 15 Battery, Single Fork, No. 8 Finished Feeler, Easy Shipping Motion, High Roll Spur Gear Take-Up, Friction Let-Off, No. 8 Single Thread Warp Stop-Motion, 3 Banks of Drop Wires. IV E A VfNG, LOOM TEMPLES. The loom temple we have been manufacturing for a long time. For its earliest improvements our predecessors were solely responsible. The cylindrical toothed roll reciprocating temple was introduced to the trade from Hopedale and has been used universally on common looms for sixty years, and is a necessary element in our Northrop Loom. Our designs have kept pace with the advance of weaving, and we have temples prepared to meet the requirements of any of the manifold types of woven goods. Wherever cases arise that need special treatment we are glad to give our trained consideration to the problem. Our foundry work on temple castings is very high. Our equipment in patterns and molding machines is complete and our standard of foundry product in size and smoothness of surface is unexcelled. On temple rolls, we have the advantage of long experience and the use of highly specialized machinery used in the various processes that have to do with the making of the teeth and the drilling and setting of the rolls. There is no other outfit that can compare with ours in this line. All of our temple rolls are marked with our trade-marks and the rolls are sold for use only in temples made by us. With the advent of the Northrop loom we developed the thread-cutting temple. The later types of this device with our more recent improvements we control by patents and put on all our Northrop looms. The following cuts show a few representative types of temples, bat do not begin to comprise the number of temples we carry to adequately cover our field. WEA VING. Heavy Double Roll Temple for Duck of Certain Grades. Double Roll Temple. L Section Bar. WE A VING. 339 2y2 Inch Roll L Bar Thread Cutting Temple. 340 WE A vnvG. Rubber Roll Temple. WE A VING. 341 Hardaker Worsted Temple. Knowles Worsted Temple. Dawson Temple for Worsteds. 342 SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS. SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS. The following sample specifications of complete machines made by the Draper Company are intended to be of service in showing people connected with mills what points have to be considered in ordering machinery. They give all the questions asked in actually entering an order, but are not intended for this use because minor changes have sometimes to be made and we prefer to handle this matter on prepared specification blanks. Sample of SPECIFICATION OF WARPERS ORDERED FROM DRAPER COMPANY, HOPEDALE, MASS. Name Date 19 Place Ship to Via what route? How many Right Hand warpers ? How many Left Hand warpers? What model? Rise or Drop roll machine? Do you want the Hicks Cone Drive? Do you want the Beam Doffer? What len.iJ:th of cylinder? Our usual length is 54 inches. Diameter of Beam Heads? Diameter of barrel of Beams? Largest number of threads on Section Beam? Clock for how many Raps? No. of yards per Rap? Will you drive the Beam with threads running over or under? Do you belt from above or below? Do you want Front Comb? Will you have back combs or high or low back reeds? Reeds are covered on top; combs are not. High reed 5' between top rail and case, low reed 3''. SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS, 343 How many section beams? How many V Creels? Number of Spools? How many high? Long? What height is your room, floor to ceiling? Will you have Iron or Glass Creel Steps? What number of Yarn? Number ply if Twisted? Send sample spool, also skewer, if used. In sending samples please specify where from. Additional specifications furnished when Balling Motion is desired. Sample of SPECIFICATIONS OF BALLING MACHINES, ORDERED FROM THE DRAPER COMPANY, HOPEDALE, MASS. For Date 19 Place Ship to Via what route? How many for Right Hand Warper? How many for Left Hand Warper? How many Balls to be wound on one machine, (one or two)? What model of machine? What length of Traverse? (Regular size 30 inches.) How many wood rolls? Shell or Solid? Clock to stop every yards. Register to register up to yards. Are Leasing Motions wanted? Are Lease Combs wanted? How many ends on inches? What make of Warper is Balling machine to be applied to? Do you use Machines for both Ball and Beam warping? Length of Cylinder? Diameter of Cylinder? Diameter of Measuring Roll? Diameter of Measuring Roll Shaft for Clock Worm? Distance between ribs of Warper sides? Diameter of Beam Arm Girt? Diameter of Cylinder Gear? No. of Teeth in Cyhnder Gear? 344 SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS. Distance between Cylinder Gear and Warper Side? If you are supplied with Rolls, are they Shell or Solid and what is the Length? If Shell Rolls, give diameter of Shaft Length over all Distance between shoulders Our standard size for this shaft at square part is l-Yie" diameter, but we can furnish l^A" if desired. Ends of shaft are Hie" diameter (round.) What number Yarn? Number Ply if Twisted? What is diameter of head and length of traverse on the spool used in warper creel? Sample of SPECIFICATIONS OF SPOOLERS ORDERED FROM DRAPER COMPANY, HOPEDALE, MASS. Name Date 191 Place Ship to Via what route? How many Spoolers? How many Spindles each? Single or Double Rail? Pattern of Spooler, *'E,'' ^'H,'' 'T' or ^^K'^? '*K'' is an **H'' Model without Bobbin Chutes. Send Sample Spindle if top is to match others, or give exact diameter of top. What length traverse? What Gauge? Bobbin Holders or Side Spindles? Rhoades Patent Bobbin Holder recommended for *'H" Model, also recommended for '1" Model when Belt Delivery is used; Lawrence Patent if without Chutes or Belt. On *'E'' Model, only Lawrence Patent can be used. We do not recommend Bobbin Holders for spooling Twister Bobbins. Send Bobbin full of Yarn. Send Sample Spool. What Style Guide? Improved Northrop, Lawrence or MacColl? Give size of Spinning Ring used. Give number of Yarn to be spooled. SAMPLE SPE CI PICA TIONS. 345 Will you have Bobbin Chutes? On **E'' Model Spoolers we charge 15 cents per Spindle extra. We furnish without extra charge on ''H" Model. We do not use Chutes on ''V Model. Will you have Spool Raising Device? (25 cents per spindle extra.) (Recommended for Heavy Spools.) Will you have Top Creel? Will you have Side Boxes or Shelves? (If Shelves, give outside measurement of height and width of Doffing Boxes. ) Will you have Top Creel and boxes of Steel or Wood? We recommend steel. Belt Above or Below? What diameter Pulley? Face? Shall Machine be Shod or Taken Down for Shipping? When Wanted? Sample of SPECIFICATIONS OF TWISTERS, ORDERED FROM DRAPER COMPANY, HOPEDALE, MASS. Name Date 191 Place Ship to Via what route? How many Wet Twisters? How many Dry Twisters? Will you have Flat Tape, or Round Band Drive? How many Spindles in each? What pattern of Spindle? If matching a present lot, send sample bobbin and spindle to ensure duplication. Are brakes required on spindles? Single or double Boss Top Rolls? Single or double Line Top Rolls? Single or double Line Bottom Rolls? What Gauge? Size of Ring? Kind of Ring? (Vertical or flat-top?) If Vertical Rings, is Carter Oiling Device desired? Extra charge for this. 346 SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS, What length traverse? Will you have Warp, Filling or Combination wind building motion? If combination, state what we shall send out the machine set up on? Will you use Single or Double-headed Bobbin? What number yarn will you twist? How many ply? For how many turns twist per inch shall Twisters be geared? We furnish three twist gears and charge extra if more are ordered. Will you twist from beams or spools? If you twist from spool, send samiple that you twist from? In sending Spools, please specify on same where they are from. Do you want T. H. Smith Stop-Motion? Recommended especially for two-ply. Extra charge, Not recommended for wet twisting. Do you want Wire Board Lifters? Do you want Traverse Motion for Yarn on Rolls? Unless otherwise specified. Cylinders on round band drive Twisters are 8 inches diameter; on flat tape drive 10 inches diameter? What Diameter Pulley? Face of Pulley? Pulleys run from 8 to 20 inches, by half inches, 2 to 4^ inch faces. We recommend 12 inches or larger pulleys. How belted, from Above or Below? Shall machines be Shod, or taken down and Boxed? Sample of SPECIFICATIONS OF REELS ORDERED FROM DRAPER COMPANY, HOPEDALE, MASS. Name Date 19 Place Ship to Via what route? How many Reels with driving pulleys on Right hand end? How many Reels with driving pulleys on Left hand end? How many Spindles each? Live or Dead Spindles? SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS, 347 Space between spindles? Size of skein desired? (54, 60 or 72 inch)? Regular or Grant Wind? Yarn to be reeled from Spool, Bobbin or Cop? Send Sample full of yarn? Gong to strike at each (hank or yards) ? Give number of Yarn to be reeled? Is Change Gear Clock Wanted? (Extra Charge). Belt Above or Below? Shall Machines be Shod or Taken Down for Shipping? Sample of SPECIFICATIONS OF NORTHROP LOOMS ORDERED FROM DRAPER COMPANY, HOPEDALE, MASS. Make out separate specifications for each model and size of loom. For Date ordered 19 Address Ship to Number Size Model Right-Hand Belt from Above? Left-Hand Belt from Above? Right-Hand Belt from Below? Left-Hand Belt from Below? Kind of Cloth to be woven? Width? Sley? For what number of picks shall we furnish Pick Gears? Gears in excess of one per Loom charged extra. For what number of picks shall we set up Looms? Number of Warp Yarn Number of filling Yarn? Number of threads in Warp? Shall looms duplicate others in the mill? If so, give date of previous order? Is filling on Bobbins or Cops? Total length of Bobbins or Cops? NOTE:— It is necessary to send several sample cops with mule spindle, or bobbin and spindle. Mark Mule Spindle top and bottom, where Cop fits. Our regular sizes of bobbins take 5^^" traverse on a bobbin 6%^^ long; eVs" on a bobbin 7%'' long; 6%'^ traverse on a 348 SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS, bobbin 8" long and 7^^" traverse on a bobbin 8%'^ ; long. At least 200 per loom should be provided. Our } regular cop sizes are 5^^, BVs and 6% Traverse. When cops are used we send 30 skewers with each loom. These are charged extra. Shall we make Bobbin or Cop Heads Standard Butt ? " Give largest diameter of full filling Bobbin or Cop measured ! on the Yarn? Number of Battery? Diameter of Spinning Ring? What Take-up? NOTE:— Our **High Roll'' construction admits of winding any diameter Cloth Roll up to 17^'. Embodied with this we have three separate styles of Take-up. Our regular pattern takes up with every pick and lets back to prevent thin places. Our Worm Take-up without the let-back feature, is a positive take-up, and is especially designed for corduroys, velvets and similar fabrics which require 200 picks per inch and above. Our Worm Take-up with let-back is designed for those who require a positive take-up and still desire the let-back feature. What Let-off? NOTE: — We furnish Roper; Bartlett; Friction; Roper and Friction; or Bartlett and Friction combined. On **L'' Model looms we furnish Compound Let-off and Compound with friction; on Corduroy looms we furnish a special let-off. If friction Let-off shall we order Chain, Fibre or Rope Friction? ; What Whip Roll Combination? NOTE: — Drag Rolls are used only for very heavy weaves, , heavy denims and goods of this character. If | wanted, specify whether light or heavy pipe. We recommend for most cloths Plain Pipe Whip Rolls; for heavy weaves, not taking Drag Rolls, Vibrating Whip Rolls; for very light weaves, Durkin Thick and | Thin Place Preventors. Unless Vibrating Whip Rolls, Thick and Thin Place Preventors or Drag Rolls are specified, we shall furnish with Plain Pipe Roll. Will you have Feeler? What type shall we furnish? Will you have looms provided to take Feeler later? Will you have Single or Double Fork? NOTE:— Double Fork Looms measure 2" more between loom sides than single fork (except on **L" Model Looms.) Bunch Builders: Quantity? Make of Spinning Frame? Shall we get measurements at Mill or Shop? SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS. 34& NOTE: — When feeler is used an attachment on spmning^ frames, called the Bunch Builder, is required to wind bunch of yarn on bobbin. What Warp Stop-Motion is required? NOTE :— We have four kinds: Steel harness using one steel heddle for every warp thread, adapted for 2-3-4 and 5 harness work. Drop-wire Stop-motion for cotton harness, which requires one drop wire for every two warp threads in a two-harness loom; adapted for 2-3-4 and 5 harness work. Single Thread Stop-motion for cotton harness, using one drop wire for every warp thread. This stop-motion is adapted for any number of harnesses from 2 up and can be arranged with 2-3 or 4 Banks. Single thread Lease Rod Stop-motions, for use with two banks of Drop Wires. How many Steel Heddles or Drop Wires? Are they to be punched for use in American Warp Drawing Machine? Will you have No. 1, No. 6 or No. 9 Warp Stop-Motion Knock-off? How many looms arranged for 2 Harnesses? How many for 2 and 3 Harnesses? How many up? How many down? How many for 2, 3 & 4 Harnesses? How many up? How many down? How many for 2, 3, 4 & 5 Harnesses? How many up? How many down? How many for 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 Harnesses? How many up? How many down? What Harness Motion? NOTE:— We furnish the Roll and Shaft Top Harness-motion; the Lacey Top; Stimpson Top; or Dwight Spring Top. We adapt our looms to take Dobbies made by Crompton & Knowles Loom Works. We also furnish Special Side Cam Motion for Corduroy, Bag and Tubing Looms. On what No. of Harnesses shall we set up looms? How many up? How many down? How many degrees rest shall we make Harness Cams? Are Cams on Cam Shaft or Auxiliary Shaft? If Auxiliary Shaft, shall we send gears to run 2-3-4 and 5 shade? Single or Double Jack Hooks? (Not used with Steel Harness.) 350 SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS, Shall we supply Dobbies? How many Harnesses? What pattern? Is Dobby to be driven from Cam or Crank Shaft? Pawl or Worm Drive? Single or Double Index? Shall we supply Single or Double Spring Jack; or Direct Springs? Is Independent Selvage Motion required? Plain or Tape? Which Selvage Motion do you want the Looms set up for? Tight & Loose or Friction Pulley? Are Cork Inserts wanted with Friction Pulleys? What Diameter and Face of Driving Pulley? What width of Belt? NOTE:— Regular size for tight and loose pulleys, 12" diameter, 2V4" face for 28" loom. 14" diameter, 2^/4" face, for 40" loom. We strongly recommend this width of face, as wider pulleys are much more troublesome in shifting belts. We furnish 16% inch, 18 inch, and 20 inch Beam Heads. Which do you require? NOTE:— When 20" heads are used looms measure 3'' more in depth than with 18''. Regular heads for our broad sheeting looms are 16" diameter. Distance between Heads? NOTE:— For proper width between Beam Heads we recommend 4" more than size of loom. For those desiring extra space we supply Beams 5y2" wider than the size of the loom. For L Model looms we recommend 8" wider than size of loom. We furnish 5" and 6" diameter Yarn Beams. Which do you prefer? NOTE:— We recommend 6" barrel for 20" Beam Heads, also with smaller heads if for fine yarn. What width and type of Shuttle is required? How many extra Shuttles? (Only one per loom included without extra charge.) Will you have Temples with 1%", 2ii>", 3V2" or 4V4" Rolls? How many Cop Skewers? Are they to have plain or corrugated blades? We usually furnish 30 per loom. These are charged extra. How many Bobbins? Style? Are tips of Bobbins to be painted? If so what color? Oil filled or not? Shall we supply Bobbins with Brass Bushings in top or bottom of Bobbin, or both? There is an extra charge for applying Brass Bushings. NOTE:— Send sample spindle for use in fitting Bobbins. SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS. 351 Will you have Bolton Loom Seats? (One to each eight looms— no charge.) Shall we supply Loom Trucks for moving the Looms? These may be purchased or will be credited upon return. NOTE:— Send us one complete reed such as you intend using on these looms. On orders for 25 to 100 looms,2 reeds: over this quantity, 3. As the contraction on our High Roll Take-Up is considerably less on several classes of weaves than on other looms, it would be well to write us before ordering new reeds. Pickers must be of short pattern not projecting above shuttle box. We furnish sample sets of strapping and pickers without extra charge. On Side Cam looms send us copy of Chain Draft. When Wanted? If more than one kind of Looms are ordered, please state which are wanted first? By what lines shall we ship? 352 CONTENTS. TABLE OF CONTENTS. BY PAGE HEADINGS. PAGE. Introductory 8-11 History 12-22 Statistics 23-41 Cotton 42-60 Cotton Bale Shears 61 Preparatory Processes 62 Belt Hole Guards 63-64 Oil Cans 65 Carding 66-73 Spinning (Rules and Tables) 74-98 Humidity 99-103 Spinning 104-115 Numbering Yarn 116-122 Twist Tables 123-129 Weaving (Rules and Tables) 130-133 Cloth Construction Tables 140-141 Cloth Construction 142-151 Cloth Structure 152-163 Multiplication Tables 164-166 Fractions 167-168 Spindles 169-187 Separators 188-189 Rings 190-193 Lifting Rod Cleaners 194-195 Lever Screws 196 Band Scales 1^97 Banding Machine 198-200 Metal Bushed Bobbins 201-202 Traveler Magazines 203-204 Yarn-Testing Machine 205-206 Spooling 207-229 Warping 230-264 Slashing 265-267 Chain Dyeing 268-271 Twisting 272-300 Reeling 301-304 Weaving 305-341 Sample Specifications 342-351 INDEX. 353 INDEX. PAGE. Balling Machines. (See Warpers.) Banding Machines 198-200 Band Tension Scales 197 Belt Hole Guards 63-64 Bobbins 80, 321 Metal Bushed 201-202 Carding 65-73 Chain Dyeing 268-271 Chain Warping. (See Warping.) Cotton Cotton buying rules, etc. 46-56 Gray Goods Contract 57-60 Historical 42-45 Opening and Picking 62 Cotton Bale Shears 61 Dimensions of Chain Warper Creels 246 Reels ; 304 Spinning Frames 97 Spoolers 228 Twisters 300 Warper Creels 246 Historical 12-22 hopedale Location 10-11 Tenements 26-28 Humidity 99-103 Inventions. (See Patents) Lever Screws 196 Lifting Rod Cleaners 77, 194-195 Looms 305-341 Bobbins 321 Feelers 313-314 Filling Batteries 306-308 Let-Offs 318-319 Repairs 324 Shuttles 322-324 Speeds 325 Take-Ups 315-317 Top Harness Motions 320 Warp Stop-Motions 309-312 354 INDEX. PAGE. Oil-Cans 65-66 Patents 18, 22, 169, 190, 200, 201, 203, 205, 208, 265, 305, 306, 320 Physics 25 Reels 301-304 Production 302-303 Rings 76, 190-193 Rules Carders 68-69 Spinners 90-91, 110-113 Twisters 290-292 Warpers 245, 247-251, 262 Weavers 90, 131-133, 142-149, 150-163 Separators 76, 188-189 Shuttles. (See Looms) Slasher-Combs 265-267 Specifications for Balling Machines 343 Looms 347 Reels 346 Spoolers 344 Twisters 345 Warpers 342 Speed Counters (For Spindles) 196 Spindles 77 Production of 88-91 Types of 169-187 Spinning Frames 74-82 Spindle Power 82-88 Spoolers 207-228 Bobbin-Holders 212, 220-221 Knot Trimmers 229 Spindles 211-213, 226 Thread Guides 214-216 Tables Breaking weights of yarns 109 Card Clothing 67 Cloth Construction 156-163 Cloth Production 138-139 Cloth Weight 134-137, 141 Chain Warp Constants 263 Cotton Crops 39-41 Cotton Goods, Exports 38 Cotton Mills, Capital Invested, Products, Etc., 29-33 Dimensions of Circles 114 INDEX. 355 PAGE. Fractions 167-168 Holidays : 23-25 Humidity 101-103 Immigrants 34-36 Looms, Number 37 Long Measure 114 Loom Speeds 325 Multiplication 164-166 Numbering Roving 70-71 Numbering Yarns 115-122 Print Cloth Statistics 40 Reel production 303 Spindles, Number 37 Spinning Production 92-96 Spooler Production 227 Twist 123-129 Twist of Roving 72-73 Twister Allowance for Stops 295 Twister Gears for Twisters 288-289, 291-293 Twister Production 296-299 Travelers, Numbers and Weight 98 Warper Clock Gears 264 Warper Production 249 Temples 336-341 Traveler Magazines 203-204 Twisters 272-300 Production 294 Rings 277-278 Spindles 275-276, 280, 287 Stop-Motions 279 Water Pans 282 Warpers 230-264 Ball Warpers 256-264 Chain Warpers 252-255 Clocks and Registers 236-237, 257 Creels 246 Creel Steps 233 Drop Wires 232 Production 247 Reeds and Combs 235 Weaving 130 Yarn 104-109 Yarn Testing Machines 205-206 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. ^^57 MEMORANDA, MEMORANDA, MEMORANDA. LIBRARY II \ r ^ 3125 00013 9606