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THE 
 
 FRENCH COOK. 
 
 A 
 
 SYSTEM 
 
 OF 
 
 FASHIONABLE AND ECONOMICAL COOKERY , 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 USE OF ENGLISH FAMILIES. 
 
 “ True taste is an excellent economist.” —Rogers. 
 
 by 
 
 LOUIS EUSTACHE UDE, 
 
 CI-DEVANT COOK TO LOUIS XVI. AND THE EARL OF SEFTON, AND LATE 
 STEWARD TO HIS LATE ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF YORK. 
 
 NINTH EDITION, ENLARGED. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 W. H. AINSWORTH, 23, OLD BOND-STREET ; 
 
 SOLD ALSO BY 
 
 HURST AND CO., ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD ; SHERWOOD AND CO., TA- 
 TERNOSTER-ROW ; SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, ST AT ION ERS’-HALL- 
 COURT ; J. ANDREWS, NEW BOND-STREET ; AND W. SAMS, ST. JAMKs’S- 
 STREET : WILSON AND SONS, YORK; H. MOZLEY, DERBY; W. AND 
 W. CLARKE, MANCHESTER; G. AND J. ROBINSON, LIVERPOOL: 
 OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH; AND WESTLEY AND TYRRELL, 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 1827 
 
LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY SIIACKELL AND Alt ROW SMITH. JOHNSON’S COURT. 
 
Selections from the many favourable notices of this 
 
 zoork which have appeared in the periodical pub¬ 
 lications. 
 
 “ Monsieur Ude’s is a system of French Cookery 
 adapted to English tastes and materials, and the re¬ 
 ceipts are equally fitted for the most splendid tables, 
 and the most economical—London Weekly Review. 
 
 “ This work, which appears to be admirably ar¬ 
 ranged, consists of about fourteen hundred receipts, 
 every one of which has its own peculiar value, and is 
 attainable through no other source. Indeed, ‘ The 
 French Cook 1 may be said to be, beyond dispute, the 
 best treatise on the subject at present in existence. 
 The instructions in it may be more safely followed 
 than those of the Author’s amateur contemporaries, as 
 it is manifest that an experienced practitioner must 
 understand his business and be better fitted to teach 
 it than any theoretical lady or gentleman. M. Ude’s 
 book is therefore a perfect treasure to persons of both 
 sexes entering upon the culinary profession, and am¬ 
 bitious of distinction in it; for one may venture to 
 say, that with an ordinary portion of good sense, and 
 a careful study of Ude’s precepts, any industrious in¬ 
 dividual may become a very scientific Cook, and may 
 command a salary sufficiently high to enable him or 
 her to lay by a handsome provision for advanced life : 
 to say nothing of the advantage derived by the tasteful 
 and eating public, from the diffusion of sound prin¬ 
 ciples in the art of Cookery ! ‘ The Advice to Cooks’ 
 is alone worth the whole of the purchase-money of 
 
4 
 
 the volume, and ought to be read by every Cook in 
 the kingdom.”— New Monthly Magazine. 
 
 “ It would be inexcusable were we to neglect the 
 opportunity which the publication of M. Ude’s work 
 affords us, of strongly recommending it, not only as 
 the best system of French Cookery , but the best 
 Cookery-book in existence, combining, with all the 
 exquisite delicacy of the Cuisine Frangaise, the eco¬ 
 nomy and nutritive qualities of the English school .”— 
 New London Literary Gazette. 
 
 “ Louis Eustache Ude, ci-devant Cook to Louis 
 XVI., has added to our stores of knowledge a most 
 erudite and philosophical work on the science which 
 he professes.”— London Magazine. 
 
 “ Monsieur Ude is, beyond all competition, the 
 most learned of Cooks, even of French Cooks.”— Li¬ 
 terary Gazette. 
 
 “ Infinitely the best institute of the best kind of 
 Cookery.”— Monthly Review. 
 
 “ Monsieur Ude, a most competent judge on the 
 subject of gastronomy.”— Foreign Quarterly Review'. 
 
 “ M. LTde comes upon us, gorgeous in all the mag¬ 
 nificence of patrician and royal households, laying bare 
 before us mysteries very little short of those of al¬ 
 chemy. We must say, however, that he unfolds them 
 with the lucidness of a real professor. When once he 
 does admit the general gaze into the secrets of his la¬ 
 boratory, his learning is equally displayed by clear 
 and brief explanation, as it is by the value and rarity 
 of the thing explained.”— Monthly Magazine. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Were the number of works published 
 on a given subject conclusive to prove the 
 superfluity of any addition, this volume 
 would not have been again offered to the 
 world. The present author would not have 
 increased the existing mass of works on 
 his science, had it not appeared to him 
 that no preceding one resembled his own 
 in design, and that even the subjects to 
 which former writers have directed their 
 attention, have not, in their hands, been 
 treated with any thing of the tact which, in 
 Cookery, perhaps more than in any other 
 art, is requisite. 
 
 It is the intent of this work to convey, 
 bv rules, deduced from a combination of 
 
VI 
 
 theoretical science and practical experi¬ 
 ence, a knowledge of the science of French 
 Cookery ; a science which claims the 
 name as distinguished from the system of 
 other nations. To say that it stands apart 
 from these in elegance, delicacy, and re¬ 
 finement ; in uniting, with taste and judg¬ 
 ment, ingredients which lose their value 
 when used without discriminating inter¬ 
 mixture ; by the exercise of which the 
 highest gratification is conveyed to the 
 palate of which the organ is susceptible ; 
 in every thing, in short, which distinguishes 
 a science, founded on principle, and re¬ 
 duced to a system, from a mere mechani¬ 
 cal art. 
 
 Of the qualifications which the Author 
 has brought to his task it becomes him to 
 say little ; but it may be presumed, that 
 upwards of forty years practice and assi¬ 
 duous application to the study of his pro¬ 
 fession, have gone far to give him a 
 thorough knowledge of it, and it will pro¬ 
 bably be conceded that to conquer all the 
 difficulties attached to it, is not a trifling 
 
Vll 
 
 task. The patronage and encouragement 
 he has received in this country, at the 
 hands of one of the best masters that 
 man ever served, co-operating with expe¬ 
 rience, enabled him to succeed in all his 
 undertakings. His gratitude can cease 
 only with his existence. 
 
 The Author is convinced of his accu¬ 
 racy when he says, that Cookery is an art 
 appreciated by only a very few individuals, 
 an art which requires, in addition to a most 
 diligent and studious application, no small 
 share of intellect, and the strictest sobriety 
 and punctuality: without the latter, the 
 very best Cook is unavoidably deficient in 
 the delicacies of his profession : there are 
 cooks, and cooks, as there are painters, and 
 painters : the difficulty lies in finding the 
 perfect one; nor does the Author fear the 
 charge of extravagance when affirming 
 that, to an individual ranking in the higher 
 circles, the acquisition of a good cook ought 
 to be a subject of as much satisfaction as 
 the possession of any other of the means 
 
Vlll 
 
 by which gratification is conveyed to the 
 tasteful or luxurious. 
 
 In England the few assistants allowed 
 to a head cook, and the number of dishes 
 he has to prepare, often deprive him of 
 an opportunity of displaying his abilities; 
 and after many years of the utmost exer¬ 
 tion to bring his art to perfection, he has 
 the mortification of ranking no higher than 
 an humble domestic. 
 
 As several noblemen and ladies of dis¬ 
 tinction have remarked that his book con¬ 
 tained too many French terms, the Author 
 has endeavoured in this edition to meet 
 their wishes (as their goodness and libe¬ 
 rality towards him imperatively demand) 
 by giving translations of such names as. 
 were translatable. But he must still ob¬ 
 serve, as he did in the preceding editions, 
 that Cookery, like any other art, which is of 
 foreign origin, its nomenclature is, like theirs, 
 in the language of the people who first cul¬ 
 tivated it; added to which, different lan¬ 
 guages do not often possess synonymous 
 terms, and hence the impossibility of trans- 
 
IX 
 
 ter ring, by an equivalent, certain terms 
 into English, so as to convey any intelligi¬ 
 ble meaning. In cases when these cir¬ 
 cumstances operate, French terms have 
 been unavoidably retained ; but care has 
 been taken to give, at the bottom of the 
 respective pages where the expressions 
 occur, such elucidations as may be fully 
 explanatory of their import to the practi¬ 
 tioner. 
 
 As the manner of dressing entrees is 
 explained hereafter, it may be proper for 
 the author to observe here, that the word 
 entree has no equivalent in English. It is 
 the name of any dish of meat, fowl, game, 
 or fish, dressed and cooked for the hrst 
 course; all vegetable dishes, jellies, 
 pastries, salad, prawns, lobsters, and in 
 general every thing that appears in the 
 second course, except the roasts, are 
 termed entremets. 
 
 The following is an explanatory transla¬ 
 tion of such words as are of most constant 
 
 a 3 
 
 occurrence : — 
 
X 
 
 French. English , 
 
 Potages, . 
 
 Entrees. 
 
 
 Entremets. 
 
 Jelees. 
 
 
 Marquez,. 
 
 
 Masque * . 
 
 
 Saute,f . 
 
 Reduire. 
 
 
 - . icuu<jc, ui uou uown. 
 
 Most of the dishes retain their original 
 name. In a former edition, the articles in 
 season were enumerated; hut the author 
 has found it useless in the present one, be- 
 
 * Masque signifies covered. The meaning of this dish is, 
 that you should cover all the part specified with sauce ; when 
 you meet with this word, it is always accompanied with thick 
 sauce; masque signifies covgrt with the sauce. 
 
 t Sauti is another term of art- fried is not the proper ex- 
 pression, because saute means, as soon as the contents of the 
 sauU -pan are affected by the great heat, you should with 
 great celerity turn over the fillets, of whatever kind. The 
 beauty of a saute is the perfection of its nicety, and you 
 can never attain that point if you are not extremely par¬ 
 ticular; you should touch every fillet lightly with your finger- 
 if you find it firm and give way a little, it is done properly . 3 
 
 A shade too hard or too soft in the fillet will at once con- 
 demn it. 
 
XI 
 
 cause, when in London, the markets and 
 shop-keepers are always provided accord¬ 
 ing to the season; the price of the various ar¬ 
 ticles is always the thermometer to be con¬ 
 sulted: when in the country, the Cook must 
 use in preference the produce of the farm and 
 gardens. The futile search after novelty in 
 Cookery is a running after the philoso¬ 
 pher’s stone. Every thing is equally good 
 when done in perfection. The sweet 
 dishes which conclude this work, will no 
 more bear translating than “ plum-pudding ” 
 will in Paris; which bears the same name 
 there that it does in London : so Suedoise, 
 Charlotte of apples, or Charlotte of apricot, 
 rice, and apples. Chartreuse of fruits, apple 
 fritures glazed, soufflees, miroton of apples, 
 croquettes of rice, jarcie d’abricots, croquettes 
 of potatoe, panequet , are at once French 
 and English : however, no difficulty can 
 result from a dish bearing a foreign name, 
 as the way of making it is explained in 
 English, and the learner will be easily 
 familiarized with their names. The vari¬ 
 ous articles will be treated of in their re- 
 
xn 
 
 spective classes as usual, of which there 
 are seven, viz. soups, Jish, removes of 
 either fishes and soups; entries, entremets, 
 roasts for the second course; in the first 
 course there are always removes; then the 
 removes of roasts, called soufflees, or bis¬ 
 cuits a la creme, or fondus, See. Sec. It is 
 necessary to remember all these observa¬ 
 tions, as they teach the learner to serve 
 with order. By taking a dish from the 
 different classes, a dinner may be com¬ 
 posed without further assistance than is 
 afforded by this book. Suppose you have 
 eight persons at dinner, you cannot send 
 up less than four entrees, a soup, and a Jish; 
 you must have two removes, viz. for the 
 second course, two dishes of roast, next 
 four entremets; and if you think proper, 
 two removes of the roast, or one roast, and 
 a dish opposite that, which will answer 
 the remove, and, at the same time, fill 
 the place and save trouble and expense. 
 Multiplicity of dishes does not constitute 
 a good dinner; ajudicious selection of them 
 is ahvay preferred by the man of taste. 
 
Xlll 
 
 Make the bill of fare, by choosing out of 
 each chapter whatever you may want, 
 namely : soup (under the head soup); fish 
 (under the head fish), from the correspond¬ 
 ing title in the article under entree, entre¬ 
 mets. 
 
 From this it may be inferred that a single 
 article is to be taken out. For the second 
 course you should act on the same principle: 
 the i oasts must likewise not bear any re¬ 
 semblance to each other. In summer-time 
 you will select two dishes from among the 
 vegetables, one from among the jellies, 
 and one out of the chapter of pastry ; as 
 for instance : 
 
 Bill of Fare for a Burner of Four Entrees. 
 
 Soupe printanniere, or spring soup. 
 
 Crimp cod and oyster sauce. 
 
 Tzvo Removes. 
 
 Fowl a la Montmorenci, garnished with a ragout d 
 l' Allemande. 
 
 Ham glazed with Espagnole, sauce under it. 
 
XIV 
 
 Four Entrees. 
 
 Fricassee of chicken mushrooms. 
 
 Lamb chops sautd, with asparagus, peas, &c. 
 
 Fillets of fat chicken, sautt au supreme. 
 
 Petits pdtes of fillet of fowl a la bechamelle. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Fowls roasted, garnished with water cresses. 
 
 Six quails. 
 
 Four Entremets. 
 
 Asparagus with plain butter. 
 
 Orange jellies in mosaiques. 
 
 Cauliflower with veloutt sauce. 
 
 Petit gateaux & la Manon. 
 
 Two Removes of the Roast. 
 
 Soufflee with lemon-peel. 
 
 Ramequin cl la Sefton. 
 
 From the above statement it will be 
 easy to make a bill of fare of four, six, 
 eight, twelve, or sixteen entrees, and the 
 other courses in proportion. The author 
 has inserted a bill of fare for a dinner of 
 twenty entrees. The second course is 
 in the same proportion, as it requires the 
 
XV 
 
 same number of dishes for the second that 
 have been served in the first. Observe, 
 that whenever there are more than four 
 entries , symmetry must always be attended 
 to: the two flanks for a dinner of six 
 entrees must be parallel, that is to say, if 
 you place petits pates on one side, you 
 must have croquettes on the other ; if you 
 have a vol au vent on one side, you must 
 place a pate chaud opposite, and so on ; a 
 judicious arrangement of dishes gives ad¬ 
 ditional merit to a dinner, and the entries 
 of any appearance should be always paral¬ 
 lel, it adds wonderfully to the effect. 
 
 The second course requires also a dif¬ 
 ferent arrangement when you have more 
 than four entries. At the two flanks you 
 must have two dishes of vegetables, if 
 approved of; and at the four corners, a 
 jelly, a pastry, a lobster salad, and a 
 cream jelly, See .; if you have a different 
 instruction, you may put two sweets in 
 the flanks, two vegetables at each op¬ 
 posite corner, and an Italian salad, and 
 
XVI 
 
 a dish of prawns at the two other 
 corners. 
 
 Bill of Fare of Six Entrees . 
 
 Dinner for Twelve or Fourteen Persons. 
 
 Two Potages. 
 
 Good woman’s soup, dite Jlamande, white and thick. 
 
 Soup d la bauveau, brown and clear. 
 
 Two Fishes. 
 
 Turbot, with lobster sauce. 
 
 Slices of crimped salmon boiled, with caper sauce over it. 
 Tivo Removes. 
 
 Turkey d la perigueux, with a puree of chesnut under it. 
 A Westmorland ham glazed, and garnished with green. 
 
 Six Entrees. 
 
 Cutlets of mutton braized, with soubise sauce. 
 
 Salmi of young partridges d l' Espagnole. 
 
 Vol au vent of salt fish d la maitre d'hdtel. 
 
 Casserole of rice, with a puree of game. 
 
 Saute of fillets of fowl d la Lvcullus, with truffles. 
 
 Fillets of young rabbits d la orlies, white poivrade sauce*. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Two Roasts. 
 
 Three partridges roasted. 
 
 Three woodcocks. 
 
XVII 
 
 Six Entremets. 
 
 Spinach with consomme, garnished with fried bread. 
 Whole truffles au vin de champagne.* 
 
 Lobster salad d l'Italienne. 
 
 Jelly of marasquino. 
 
 Buisson of gdteau d la Polonoise .f 
 Charlotte of apples with apricot. 
 
 Two Removes of the Roast. 
 
 Biscuit a la cream. 
 
 Fondus. 
 
 Dinner for Sixteen or Twenty Persons. 
 
 Two Potages. 
 
 Soup d la Reine. 
 
 Brunoise, clear. 
 
 Two Fishes. 
 
 Turbot, garnished with fried smelts, lobster sauce. 
 Slices of salmon, with Genevoise sauce. 
 
 * Whole truffles are cooked or braised with the cham ; but 
 as they are drained before they come to table, they should 
 not be put with chain, but braised with champagne. 
 
 t Buisson means a dish of pastry dressed o°o°o 
 
 O O o <3 
 
 thus: >- g o o o °n 
 
Four Removes. 
 
 Fowls a la Conde, ragout d VAllemande. 
 Westphalia ham glazed, and Espagnole under it. 
 
 A Rump of beef braised, glazed, and garnished 
 with green cabbages. 
 
 A loin of veal roasted d la bechamelle. 
 
 Remove 
 the soup. 
 
 Remove 
 the fish. 
 
 Eight Entrees. 
 
 Fillets of young partridges a la Lucullus, with truffles. 
 
 Small timballe with a salpicon. Twelve, at least, will 
 be required to fill the dish. 
 
 Croquettes of fowls au veloute. 
 
 Small fillets of fowl a la Pompadour. 
 
 Three small partridges d la Barbarie, with truffles. 
 
 Two small chickens poele, with tarragon sauce. 
 
 Cutlets of pork d la mirapoix, brown sharp sauce, or 
 sauce Robert. 
 
 Cutlets of mutton a Vltalienne. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Four Roasts. 
 
 Eight snioes. 
 
 O i 
 
 A hare roasted. 
 
 Two wild ducks. 
 
 A capon, garnished with cresses. 
 
 Eight Entremets. 
 
 Salsifis h la sauce blanche. 
 
 Macaroni d Vltalienne. 
 
XIX 
 
 Poached eggs, with gravy of veal clarified. 
 
 Brocoli au veloute. 
 
 Jelly de noyau rouge. 
 
 Italian cheese It Vorange.* 
 
 Gateaux a la Madeleine farcie, de creme a la vanille. 
 Little bouchees, garnished with marmalade. 
 
 Four Removes of the Roasts. 
 
 Souffle a I'essence de citron. 
 
 Ramequin, with parmesan cheese. 
 
 Biscuit d, la cream. 
 
 Petits choux pralinier. 
 
 Dinner for Twenty or Twenty-four Persons 
 
 Four Potages. 
 
 Soup of rabbits cl la Reine. 
 
 Soup Julienne. 
 
 Soup ii la Carmelite. 
 
 Soup a la Clermont. 
 
 Four Fishes. 
 
 Turbot and lobster sauce. 
 
 Pike baked, Dutch sauce. 
 
 Three slices of crimped cod, oyster sauce. 
 
 Matelotte of carp. 
 
 * Frontage cl I'ltalienne, a laffleur d'orange. 
 
XX 
 
 Four Removes . 
 
 Rump of beef glazed d la Jlamande. 
 
 Leg of pork, garnished with green. 
 
 Boiled turkey, celery sauce. 
 
 A fillet of beef puqui & la sauercroutte. 
 
 Twelve Entrees. 
 
 Small casserolettes of rice, mince of fowl. 
 
 Scollops of fillets of fowls, with truffles. 
 
 Turban of fillets of rabbits. 
 
 Petits pdt6s d la nelle . Aufumet de gibier, 
 
 Cutlets of fillets of partridges. 
 
 Chartreuse of palates of beef. 
 
 Fillets of soles d la ravigotte. 
 
 Small cases of sweetbread d la Venitienne. 
 
 Grenade of small fillets of fowls d l'essence . 
 
 Attelets of sweetbread, Italienne sauce. 
 
 Petits pates of oysters d la Sefton. 
 
 Partridges and cabbages dressed, with Spanish sauce 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Four Roasts. 
 
 Two fowls with cresses. 
 
 Five woodcocks. 
 
 Two ducklings. 
 
 Two young rabbits. 
 
 Twelve Entremets. 
 
 Spinach d la cream. 
 
 Asparagus with butter. 
 
XXI 
 
 Cream au caffe, white. 
 
 Sultane with a vol au vent. 
 
 Small lozenges garnies, of apricot. 
 
 Meringues a la Chantilly. 
 
 Cauliflower au veloutL 
 
 Salsijis a l'Espagnole. 
 
 Jelly of Madeira. 
 
 Fromage Bavarois au chocolate. 
 
 Gateau praline, garnished. 
 
 Jelly of marasquino rose. 
 
 Four Removes. 
 
 Two dishes of fondus. 
 
 One of talmouse, or cheese-cake. 
 
 One of choux en biscuit,. 
 
 Here the plain Roasted Meat should come in (a leg of 
 mutton or other joint). 
 
 The Author has here given only a spe¬ 
 cimen of the form and general arrange¬ 
 ment of a bill of fare ; the selection of the 
 articles rests with the Cook, or the person 
 who orders the dinner. You may serve a 
 good dinner without adhering to the iden¬ 
 tical dishes which he has selected, or 
 rather mentioned as it were at random. 
 He thinks it would be useless to go beyond 
 
XXII 
 
 sixteen entrees; for a multiplicity of dishes 
 is easily made out. He will only observe, 
 that with twenty entires, the counter-flanks 
 should exhibit copious entries; and that 
 for the second course there should be in¬ 
 troduced what we call moyens cl entremets, 
 or ornamental dishes, or brioches , or bis¬ 
 cuits, or babas, either in the counter-flanks, 
 or at the top and bottom of the table. 
 
 Eight large pieces of ornaments are not 
 exactly wanted with twenty entrees; but 
 when you have thirty-two entries , you 
 must put large pieces at the top and bot¬ 
 tom, and the two flanks; and four smaller 
 ones in the four counter-flanks. 
 
 Whenever a dinner consists of more 
 than eight entrees, those huge pieces are 
 indispensable; but it• is then impossible 
 for any. Cook to dress them without assist¬ 
 ants ; by himself, he would be able to 
 send up to table nothing but common 
 dishes, to either of the courses. 
 
 The second course for the dinner of 
 twenty entrees, has not been mentioned, as 
 it is known that there ought to be the 
 
XX111 
 
 same number of dishes as in the first 
 course; there should be also the same 
 number of roasts in the room of removes, 
 or of large entrees; two at the top and 
 bottom, two at the flanks, and four at the 
 counter-flanks. If you have assistants 
 enough to make the ornamental pieces, 
 then remove the four roasts of the counter¬ 
 flanks with souffles, biscuit, fotidus, 8$c.; 
 and put four large pieces at the top and 
 bottom, and on the two flanks. 
 
 The Author has added two cold pies, 
 which are likewise served at a large dinner. 
 He likes them to be sent to table with the 
 first course; and to remain there between 
 the two courses. By this means the epi¬ 
 cure and dainty eater will always have 
 something before them. They are not at 
 all in the way, but improve the look of the 
 table. 
 
 N. B. — The pies may be either of game 
 or poultry. 
 
 It only remains to add, that the Author 
 has spared no pains to render this edition 
 worthy of the praises which he gratefully 
 
XXIV 
 
 remembers have been bestowed on the 
 preceding one. The encouragement he 
 has met with has added, where no¬ 
 thing was before wanting, to his desire 
 to render this Work as perfect, both in 
 design and execution, as individual know¬ 
 ledge and assiduity could render it. 
 
XXV 
 
 ADVICE TO COOKS. 
 
 The Author trusts that he will not be accused 
 of vanity, in seeking to enforce good precepts, as 
 well as by giving good examples. Cookery is an 
 art which requires much time, intelligence, and 
 activity, to be acquired in its perfection. Every 
 man is not born with the qualifications necessary 
 to constitute a good Cook. The difficulty of at¬ 
 taining to perfection in the art, will be best demon¬ 
 strated by offering a few observations on some 
 others. Music, dancing, fencing, painting, and 
 mechanics in general, possess professors under 
 twenty years of age, whereas, in the first line of 
 cooking, pre-eminence never occurs under thirty. 
 We see daily at Concerts, and Academies, young 
 men and women who display the greatest abilities; 
 but in our line, nothing but the most consummate 
 experience can elevate a man to the rank of Chief 
 Professor. It must be admitted, that there are 
 few good Cooks, though there are many who 
 
 b 
 
XXVI 
 
 advance themselves as such. This disproportion 
 of talent among them is the cause of the little 
 respect in which they are held; if they were all 
 provided with the necessary qualities, they would 
 certainly be considered as artists. 
 
 What science demands more study than Cookery ? 
 You have not only, as in other arts, to satisfy the 
 general eye, but also the individual taste of the 
 persons who employ you; you have to attend to 
 economy, which every one demands; to suit the 
 taste of different persons at the same table; to sur¬ 
 mount the difficulty of procuring things which are 
 necessary to your work; to undergo the want of 
 unanimity among the servants of the house; 
 and the mortification of seeing unlimited confi¬ 
 dence sometimes reposed in persons who are un¬ 
 qualified to give orders in the kitchen, without as¬ 
 suming a consequence, and giving themselves airs 
 which are almost out of reason, and which fre¬ 
 quently discourage the Cook. 
 
 In fact, a thousand particulars, too tedious to 
 detail, render this employment at once laborious 
 and unhonoured. Nevertheless, if you are ex¬ 
 tremely clean, if you are very sober, and have, 
 above all, a great deal of activity and intelligence, 
 you will succeed one day or other, in acquiring 
 that confidence which these qualities always in¬ 
 spire. You have not the power which other artists 
 
XXV11 
 
 and mechanics have, of putting off for another 
 day what cannot be done in this; the hour im¬ 
 periously commands, and the work must be done 
 at the appointed time. Be ever careful then to 
 have all things ready for your work by the time 
 it is required, and proceed without noise or con¬ 
 fusion. 
 
 If you possess a thorough knowledge of your 
 profession, or enjoy the entire confidence of your 
 employer, do not be so inconsiderately proud of it, 
 as to treat any one with disdain, a practice too 
 common among persons in place. Do not take 
 any other advantage of your superiority, than to be 
 serviceable to the utmost of your power ; although 
 you ought not to be regarded merely as a servant, 
 yet forget not that you have still a duty to fulfil; 
 you are obliged to serve at the precise hour, to an¬ 
 ticipate all that can give pleasure to your em¬ 
 ployer ; to have every thing ready which he has 
 ordered, and what he frequently will forget to 
 order; and to watch strictly over those in your * 
 department. 
 
 If you confide any thing to persons under 
 your controul, be careful always to have it done 
 under your own eye; that you may be able to 
 answer for the fault, if there is any. It often 
 happens that the company who dine together, have 
 not the same taste: try as much as possible to fur- 
 
 ’ b 2 
 
XXV111 
 
 nish them with what they like ; and, above all, 
 never object to change any dish which is not ap¬ 
 proved of. Were you even the best Cook in the 
 world, if you are obstinate in pursuing your old 
 routine, without seeking to please those who em¬ 
 ploy you, you will merely exist, without acquiring 
 either consideration, reputation, or fortune. 
 
 Great cleanliness is requisite in the utensils you 
 make use of: entiust to no one but yourself the 
 examination of the copper utensils of the kitchen, 
 which are very dangerous. Every time you use a 
 stew-pan or other utensil, see that it has been w*ell 
 scoured and cleaned. The scullery-maids scour 
 the outside of their coppers, and scarcely ever give 
 themselves the trouble to clean the inside; from 
 which circumstance it will happen that the taste 
 will be entirely spoiled, and the persons who eat 
 what has been cooked in dirty vessels, are often 
 exposed to colics and other maladies, without 
 knowing the cause of them. It is on a good first 
 broth, and good sauce that you must depend for 
 good Cookery; if you have entrusted this part to • 
 persons who are negligent, and if your broth has 
 not been well skimmed, you can make but indif¬ 
 ferent work; the broth is never clear, and when 
 you are obliged to clarify it, it loses its goodness 
 and savour. The Author elsewhere remarked, that 
 any thing clarified requires high seasoning, and 
 
XXIX 
 
 consequently is not so healthy. A stock-pot well 
 managed, saves a great deal of trouble, for it would 
 be ridiculous in a small dinner to make several 
 broths. When you have put into the stock-pot 
 the articles and ingredients as directed in the Chap¬ 
 ter on that subject, the same broth will serve you 
 to make the soup, and white or brown sauce, &c. 
 Economy should be the order of the day, seeing 
 the dearness of every thing used in the kitchen. 
 You should be very careful to take off the fat, and 
 skim the soups and sauces; it is an operation 
 which must be repeated again and again: the 
 smallest drop of fat or grease is insufferable; it 
 characterises bad cookery, and a Cook without 
 method. The different classes of cookery, viz. the 
 soup, the entrees , the fish, the entremets , the roasts, 
 the jellies, the decorated entremets , the pastry, &c. 
 all require the greatest attention. The theory of 
 the kitchen appears trifling; but its practice is 
 extensive: many persons talk of it, yet know 
 nothing of it beyond a mutton-chop or a beef-steak. 
 
 Cooks in this country have not the opportunity 
 of instructing their pupils that we have in France, 
 except at the Royal Palace, where every thing is, 
 and must be, done in perfection, as neither hands 
 nor expense are objects of consideration. The 
 chief Cook should be particular in instructing his 
 apprentices in all the branches before-mentioned ; 
 
XXX 
 
 and that they may be certain of teaching them pro¬ 
 perty, not the slightest particularity of the art 
 must be omitted. The difficulties to be conquered 
 are a national prejudice which exists against French 
 Cookery; and the circumstance of a young man 
 coming to this employment from school, with his 
 taste settled, and remaining a long time in a 
 kitchen, before he will attempt to taste any thing 
 that he has not been accustomed to; if he does not 
 like Cookery himself, he never can be a good Cook. 
 Cookery cannot be done likg pharmacy; the Phar¬ 
 macist is obliged to weigh every ingredient that he 
 employs, as he does not like to taste it; the Cook, 
 on the contrary, must taste often, as the reduction 
 increases the flavour. It would be blind work in¬ 
 deed without tasting; the very best soups or en¬ 
 trees in which you have omitted to put salt, are 
 entirety without flavour: seasoning is in Cookery 
 what chords are in music ; the best instrument, in 
 the hand of the best professor, without its being in 
 tune, is insipid. I shall recommend particularly 
 to a Cook, to bestow great attention on the sauces, 
 which are the soul of Cookery. One great diffi¬ 
 culty in cooking is the names of tjie dishes; Cooks 
 seldom agree upon this point: some names owe 
 their origin either to the Cook who invented them, 
 or to tiie first Epicure who gives them a reputa- 
 
XXXI 
 
 lion. Cookery possesses few innovators.* The 
 Author has himself invented several dishes, but has 
 been shy in giving them his name, from a fear of 
 being accused of vanity. He confessess there are 
 some ridiculous names; for instance, soup au 
 clair de tune, soup a la jambe debois , la poularde 
 en bas de sole, les pets de nonne, &c. &c. with many 
 others equally ludicrous. 
 
 As Cookery originated in France, it is not 
 astonishing to find most of the names of French 
 extraction— soup a la Reine , a la Conde , d la bonne 
 Femme , &c. entrees a la Richelieu , a la Villeroi , d 
 la Dauphine , a la du Barri. Why should we not 
 see in this book the names of those true Epicures 
 who have honoured good Cookery by their appro¬ 
 bation, and have by their good taste and liberality 
 elevated it to a great superiority in this country, 
 over what it is now in France ? The Author ven¬ 
 tures to affirm, that Cookery in England, when well 
 done, is superior to that of any country in the world. 
 Bechamclle owes its name to a rich financier who 
 was a great Epicure. He is surprised not to find 
 in Cookery the names of those who have given a 
 
 * In this edition the Author has given his name to several 
 dishes which have originated in himself. He has been in¬ 
 duced to do this from the marked approbation with which 
 those dishes have been received at table, and f from the circum¬ 
 stance of their being almost universally recognized by the titles 
 thus given. 
 
XXX11 
 
 celebrity to that science, such as Apicius , Lucullus , 
 Octavius , and others, of a later day, who patronized 
 it under the reign of Louis the Fourteenth. Vol¬ 
 taire exclaims, 
 
 “ Qu’un Cuisinier est un raortel divin:” 
 
 Why should we not be proud of our knowledge in 
 Cookery ? It is the soul of festivity at all times, 
 and to all ages. How many marriages have been 
 the consequence of meeting at dinner ? How much 
 good fortune has been the result of a good supper ? 
 At what moment of our existence are we happier 
 than at table? There hatred and animosity are 
 lulled to sleep, and pleasure alone reigns. It is at 
 table that an amiable lady or gentleman shines in 
 sallies of wit, where they display the ease and 
 graceful manners with which they perform the 
 honours of the table. Here the Cook, by his skill 
 and attention, anticipates their wishes, in the hap¬ 
 piest selection of the best dishes and decorations; 
 here their wants are satisfied, their minds and 
 bodies invigorated, and themselves qualified for the 
 high delights of love, music, poetry, dancing, and 
 other pleasures ; and is he whose talents have pro¬ 
 duced these happy effects, to rank no higher, 
 in the scale of man than a common servant ? 
 Yes, if you adopt and attend to the rules that I 
 have laid down, the self-love of mankind , will con¬ 
 sent at last, that Cookery shall rank in the class of 
 
XXX111 
 
 the Sciences, and its Professors deserve the name 
 of Artists. 
 
 The Philosophers of the world are divided into 
 two classes, the true and the false. Of the latter 
 is every dogma which undervalues innocent enjoy¬ 
 ment of whatever nature. Many people rail 
 against attributing much importance to the plea¬ 
 sures of the table; but it is not observable that 
 these moralists are more averse than others to gra¬ 
 tifications of the palate when opportunity occurs. 
 It is a poor philosophy whose object is to decrease 
 the means of pleasure and enjoyment. And if 
 Cookery is productive of these, why deny to 
 it the merit which is accorded to every other 
 invention and science which tends to the same 
 end ? 
 
 If you follow my precepts you will never have 
 any ill luck. Never be afraid of doing too much for 
 your employer; the idle very seldom succeed. 
 Take great care of the company you keep ; a bad 
 companionship is of the worst consequences to a 
 man cook ; it makes him take the habit of going 
 out frequently, and returning home again too late 
 to attend to his business: these bad principles 
 will be always highly prejudicial to a Cook, and 
 will prevent him from attaining the perfection 
 required. 
 
XXXIV 
 
 ON COOKERY, 
 
 ► 
 
 AND ITS IMPUTED ILL EFECTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 Many persons, but particularly Medical Prac¬ 
 titioners, have, from time immemorial, been the 
 declared enemies of Cooks and Cookery. The de¬ 
 termination of the latter to keep mankind under 
 their despotic dominion, has engaged them in a 
 perpetual warfare against whatever might oppose 
 their peculiar interests. But the Author will dare 
 to affirm that good Cookery, so far from possessing 
 any deleterious tendency, is, on the contrary, 
 highly conducive to the preservation of health, in¬ 
 asmuch as it protects the appetite against the dis¬ 
 advantageous monotony of plain food. He will 
 not, however, pretend to deny, that, like every 
 thing else, it should be used with discretion; but 
 on what enjoyment, or even ordinary function of 
 life, he would ask, is not discretion an indispensa¬ 
 ble attendant ? The mischief then lies only in the 
 
XXXV 
 
 abuse. A skilful and well-directed Cookery 
 abounds in chemical preparations, highly salutary 
 to weak stomachs. There exists a salubrity of ali¬ 
 ment suited to every age. Infancy, youth, ma¬ 
 turity, and old age—each has its peculiarly adapted 
 food, and that not merely applicable to digestive 
 powers in full vigour, but to stomachs feebly 
 organized by nature, or to those debilitated by 
 excess. 
 
 He is greatly concerned at being obliged to com¬ 
 bat a still more powerful, though amiable enemy 
 to Cookery. The Ladies of England are unfa¬ 
 vourably disposed towards our art; yet he finds no 
 difficulty in assigning the cause of it. It is parti¬ 
 cularly the case w ith them (and indeed it is so in 
 some measure with our own sex) that they are not 
 introduced to their parents 1 table till their palates 
 have been completely benumbed by the strict diet 
 observed in the Nursery and Boarding-Schools. 
 Here then are two antagonists to Cookery—the 
 Ladies and the Doctors, whose empire is as ex¬ 
 tensive as the universe, and who divide the world 
 between them. However, in spite of the envious, 
 the Ladies will still wield the sceptre of pleasure ; 
 while the dispensations of the Doctors will be 
 sought for by us only when under the influence of 
 pain. 
 
 Nature affords a simple remedy against the 
 abuse of good cheer— Abstinence. If you have 
 
XXXVI 
 
 eaten too much, doubtless you will feel incon¬ 
 venienced. In that case have immediate recourse 
 to some weak tea,* which will speedily liberate your 
 stomach from the superfluities which encumber and 
 oppress it, without leaving those intestinal pains 
 which are rather the result of the medicine than the 
 effect of the disorder. Numbers of persons attri¬ 
 bute the gout to the frequent use of dishes dressed 
 in the French way. Many years experience and 
 observation have proved to me, that this disorder 
 lias not its origin in good cheer, but in excesses of 
 other kinds. Have we not seen, in years past, 
 numberless individuals who have lived entirely on 
 French Cookery, to very advanced ages, without 
 being afflicted with that disorder ? and do we not 
 see daily, that the greater number of those who 
 suffer the acute agonies of it, derive it from their 
 predecessors, rather than from their own habits of 
 life ? A copious and sustained exercise is the surest 
 preventive. It is true, the gout more frequently 
 attacks the wealthy than the indigent: hence it 
 has been attributed to their way of living; but 
 this is an error. It is exercise only which they 
 need ; not an airing on horseback, or in a carriage, 
 but that bodily activity which, occasioning fatigue, 
 
 * (ialen and Hippocrates said, that they left behind them 
 two still greater Doctors than themselves— Water and 
 Abstinence. 
 
XXXV11 
 
 would enable them to enjoy the sweets of repose. 
 The Author does not attempt then, as empirics do, 
 to prescribe ineffectually a remedy to cure the gout; 
 but he has this advantage over them, that he af¬ 
 fords a positive preventive against it; and thus 
 withholds many a sufferer from falling under their 
 dominion. If the Art of Cookery had been held 
 in a little more estimation, there can be no doubt, 
 but that among its professors many might have 
 been found of sufficient information and sufficiently 
 devoted to the interests of the human race, to give 
 prescriptions in Cookery as Doctors give them in 
 medicine. We have this advantage, however, over 
 them, that our compositions are always agreeable to 
 the palate, while theirs are horribly disgusting. 
 The Author could therefore recommend a skilfully 
 dressed dish, as in all respects more salubrious 
 than simple fare. He does not mean to deny that 
 a plainly roasted joint, well done, is food of easy 
 digestion; but he peremptorily proscribes all 
 salted and underdone provisions. Pork, in what¬ 
 ever way it may be dressed, is always unwhole¬ 
 some; yet if dressed in the French fashion, the 
 stimulant of a sauce makes it aperient, and it of 
 course is less indigestive than when dressed plainly. 
 Our manner of dressing vegetables is more various 
 and extensive than in England, a circumstance 
 
 c 
 
XXXV111 
 
 which embraces the double advantage of flattering 
 the palate and being of easier digestion. 
 
 The Author would recommend as a certain pre¬ 
 ventive against disorder, great bodily exercise—as 
 hunting, billiards, tennis, shuttlecock, fencing, 
 &c. for gentlemen; and for ladies, dancing, and 
 such lively exercises as are suited to their sex: 
 walking also, but not the grave and deliberate 
 movements of a magistrate, but an active and ac¬ 
 celerated pace, such as may occasion fatigue. 
 Thus you may find health and appetite, which 
 afford the pleasure of self-government, by keep¬ 
 ing you from the power of Doctors and Doctor’s 
 stuff. 
 
 One more remark, and that on the disproportion 
 of talent which exists among Cooks. A person who 
 has never tasted made dishes, sits down for the first 
 time, perhaps, to indifferently dressed ones : hence 
 arises, at first setting out, an impression, which the 
 Author confesses it is hardly ever possible to over¬ 
 come. He himself prefers a thousand times 
 plain dishes to a made dish that is badly seasoned, 
 badly trimmed, and, above all, dressed in an un¬ 
 cleanly manner, and served up with a disagreeable 
 appearance. But the wealthy are able to vanquish 
 these disadvantages, by engaging in their service 
 persons properly qualified to be placed in the rank 
 of Artists, 
 
Flip s t Course, 
 
 S pc o u ri| Course 
 
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Bitt of Fare for December crJanuary. First Course. >) ^ 
 
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 Second Co in f 
 
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ate / . 
 
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 e'lotaws u/ thr nrtraru/ns A'* <>n' th<‘ thinks .(•///<’ I’oilsoiiN on t/w rountorf/nnA's. 
 

THE 
 
 FRENCH COOK. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 SAUCES, BROTH, AND CONSOMMES. 
 
 I shall commence with broth, as the foun¬ 
 dation of Cookery. By the 1st broth, any trim¬ 
 mings of meat will answer, provided you are cau¬ 
 tious in taking off all the scum and fat, other¬ 
 wise your broth will be too much coloured to 
 settle your sauce; but if you are cautious in this 
 respect, this broth will do to moisten all your 
 sauces. The next is, when you have only a small 
 dinner; but, in a good kitchen, broth should be 
 always in the larder; otherwise you must settle 
 your stock-pot according to the dinner that you 
 have to give, or make; for four entrees, tw T enty 
 pounds of beef, for broth only, without the roast, 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 for it should be observed, that any joint roasted ii 
 the kitchen is entirely wasted for the cooking 
 Many families complain of the expence of kitchens, 
 never taking into consideration the immense weight 
 of a large joint, particularly before they have 
 trimmed it properly, and made it fit to come before 
 company. 
 
 No. 1 .—First Broth. 
 
 Take part of a breast, or of a rump of beef, with 
 some of the parures , or trimmings. Put the meat 
 into a stock-pot with cold water. Set it on the 
 fire, and watch the proper moment to skim it well. 
 If this broth is not clear and bright, the other 
 broths and sauces will also be spoiled. Be parti¬ 
 cular in taking off the black scum; pour a little 
 cold water into the above, to raise up the white 
 scum. When all the scum has been removed, put 
 in a few carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and leeks, 
 four large onions, one of which is to be stuck with 
 five cloves ; then throw a handful of salt into the 
 stock-pot, and let the whole simmer for five hours. 
 Skim away all the fat, then strain the broth through 
 a double silk sieve. Lay the piece of beef in a 
 braziere pan; pour over some of the broth, to 
 keep it hot, till the moment that you serve up. 
 You make your broth in this manner, when you 
 want to use the beef for one of your removes; 
 otherwise you cut the beef smaller, to be sooner 
 done. This first broth serves to moisten all the 
 other broths, of which the different names are as 
 follows:— 
 
 No. 2 .—First Consomme. 
 
 Mark* in a stock-pot a large piece of buttock of 
 
 * Mark is a French term, which signifies, that all the ingre¬ 
 dients requisite are to be put into the stock-pot. 
 
3 
 
 beef, or other part with a knuckle of veal, and the 
 trimmings of meat or fowls, according to the quantity 
 of sauce you may wish to make. This broth will 
 admit all sorts of veal or poultry. Let the meat stew 
 on a gentle tire. Moisten with about two large ladies- 
 full of the first broth : put no vegetables into this 
 broth, except a bunch of parsley and green onions. 
 Let them sweat thoroughly; then thrust your 
 knife into the meat: if no blood issue, it is 
 a sign that it is heated through. Then moisten 
 it with boiling broth to the top, and let it boil 
 gently for about four hours ; after which use this 
 consomme to make the sauces, or the consommes of 
 either poultry or game. Take off the fat, and 
 scum of all the various broths, and keep the pots 
 full, in order that the broth be not too high in co¬ 
 lour. When the broth remains too long on the 
 fire, it loses its flavour, acquires too brown a colour, 
 and tastes strong and disagreeable. 
 
 O O 
 
 No. 3 .—Consomme of Poultry. 
 
 Beef is no longer required in the consommes 
 either of poultry or of game. Put a few slices of 
 ham in the bottom of a stew-pan, or of any other 
 vessel, with some veal, take the knuckle in pre¬ 
 ference.* Lay over the veal, the loins of fowl and 
 trimmings. Then moisten about two inches deep 
 with the first consomme , and let it sweat on a fire, 
 so confined, that the blaze may not colour the side 
 of the vessel. When the meat is heated through, 
 (which you ascertain by thrusting your knife into 
 it, as above,) cover it with the first consomme; 
 seasoned with mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and 
 
 * The leg of veal is divided into three different fleshed 
 parts, noia, sounoix , and contre noix , and three bones, the 
 knuckle, the casis, and the marrow-bone. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 green onions, taking especial care to keep the vessel 
 very full; and let the meat boil till it be done 
 properly. The broths are more savoury and mel¬ 
 low when the meat is not overdone. Skim away 
 the fat when the broth is boiled, and strain the 
 consomme through a silken sieve, and use when 
 wanted. 
 
 No. 4.— Consomme of Game. 
 
 If you are to send up entrees of partridges, you 
 must have ready, a consomme of partridges. Put 
 into a stew-pan a few bits of veal, the backs, &c. of 
 partridges to be laid over them, to these may be 
 added, if you think proper, a few carcases of 
 rabbits if you have any. If you moisten with a 
 consomme containing ham, there is no occasion to 
 put in any more ; if not, a few slices of ham will 
 not be amiss. If your entrees are with truffles , 
 add the parings of your truffles and a few mush¬ 
 rooms. When the consomme is sufficiently done, 
 strain it through a cloth, or silk sieve, and use it 
 when you have an opportunity. Do not omit a 
 bundle seasoned. 
 
 No. 5. — Consomme of Rabbits. 
 
 Mark* the various consommes with the bones 
 and trimmings of rabbits. Do the same as for a 
 consomme of partridges; put in truffles, if your 
 entrees are to be with truffles. Do not omit the 
 bundle.*!* 
 
 * Mark means, to make each consomme with the trimmings 
 either of game or fowls. 
 
 t Bundle or Bunch, is made with parsley and green 
 onions ; when seasoned, you must put to it some bay-leaves, 
 or two bunches of thyme, a bit of sweet basil, two cloves, and 
 six leaves of mace. 
 
No. 6 .—Blond of Veal, or Gravy of Veal . 
 
 Put a few slices of Westmoreland ham (the lean 
 only) into a pretty thick stew-pan. Lay over them 
 some fleshy pieces of veal. You may use rump of 
 veal. Pour into the stew-pan, a sufficient quantity 
 of first consomme to cover about half the thickness 
 of the meat. Let it sweat on a stove, over a brisk 
 fire. Watch the stew-pan and the contents, for 
 fear of burning. When the broth is reduced, 
 thrust a knife into the meat, that all the gravy may 
 run out; then stew the glaze more gently. When 
 the whole is absolutely a glace, of a good colour, 
 you must let it stew till brown, but take care it does 
 not burn, to prevent which, put it on red-hot ashes. 
 Keep stirring your stew-pan over the fire, in order 
 that the glaze may be all of the same colour. Turn 
 the meat upside down, that it may not stick. When 
 your glaze is of a dark red colour, moisten with some 
 hot broth; let the glaze detach before you put the 
 stew-pan on the fire, for it might still burn. Season 
 with mushrooms and a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions. When the gravy has boiled for an hour, 
 it is done enough. Take off the fat, and strain it 
 through a silken sieve. 
 
 No. 7 .—Gravy of Beef. 
 
 Trim, with layers of fat bacon, the bottom of a 
 thick stew-pan; cut four large onions by halves, 
 lay the flat part over the bacon ; take a few slices 
 of beef, put them in the same manner as in the 
 gravy of veal, moisten with the first broth only. 
 Let this sweat, in order to get all the gravy out 
 of the beef, and when the broth is reduced, thrust 
 a knife into the meat; let it stew gently on a slow 
 
6 
 
 fire, till the gravy be of a light brown colour.*' Next 
 moisten with some first broth, throw in a large 
 bunch of parsley and of green onions, a little salt, 
 and a pepper corn. Let the whole boil for one hour; 
 take the fat cff, and drain it through a silk sieve, 
 to use it when wanted. 
 
 No. 8.— L\Aspic. 
 
 Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as bur- 
 net, chervil, and tarragon. Boil them in white 
 vinegar; when the vinegar is well scented, pour 
 into your stew-pan some consomme of fowl reduced ; 
 season well before you clarify. When the aspic is 
 highly seasoned, break the white of four eggs into 
 an earthen pan, and beat them with an osier rod; 
 throw the aspic into those whites of eggs, and put 
 the whole on the fire in a stew-pan ; keep beating 
 or stirring till your jelly gets white, it is then very 
 near boiling. Put it on the corner of the stove, 
 with a covei 1 over it, and a little fire on the top of 
 it. When quite clear and bright, strain it through 
 a bag, or sieve, to be used when wanted. 
 
 N.B. If you should want to use it for a mayo- 
 naise, or as a jelly in moulds, you must make 
 sure of its being stiff enough. Then put a knuckle 
 of veal in a small stock-pot, a small part of a 
 knuckle of ham, some trimming of fowl, or game. 
 Season this with onions, carrots, a bunch of herbs 
 well seasoned ; pour into it half a bottle of white 
 wine, and moisten with good broth ; let it boil 
 gently for four hours, then skim away all the fat, 
 drain it through a silk sieve; put that in a stew-pan, 
 with two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and four 
 
 The browner the glaze is, the better; but care must be 
 taken not to burn it, as it will then be bitten 
 
7 
 
 whites of eggs, salt and pepper to clarify ; and 
 keep stirring on the fire till the whole becomes very 
 ,vhite, then put this on the side with a little fire over 
 die cover; when you find it clear, drain it in a 
 cloth or jelly bag, and use it for aspic ; if not, do 
 not put in any vinegar, jelee , for pie or galentine 
 does not require acid. 
 
 No. 9 . — Jelee of Meat , for Pies. 
 
 The jelee of meat for meat for pies, is not to be 
 prepared in the same manner as the aspic. Nei¬ 
 ther aromatic herbs nor vinegar are to be used. 
 'The jelee is to be made as follows : Put into a stew- 
 pan a good piece of beef, two calves’ feet, a knuckle 
 of veal, remnants of fowl, cr game, according to the 
 contents of your pies, two onions stuck with cloves, 
 two carrots, four shalots, a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions, some thyme, bay-leaves, spices, &c., 
 and a small piece of ham. Sweat the whole over a 
 very slow fire, then moisten with some good broth, 
 let the stew-pan be covered close, and those ingredi¬ 
 ents stew for four hours, but very gently. When 
 done, taste and season it well, and clarify it as you 
 do the aspic. In order that it may keep the bet¬ 
 ter, put it into ice. 
 
 No. 10 .—Le Sitage , or TEmpotage * 
 
 MARKf in a marmite twenty pounds of beef, a 
 knuckle of veal, a hen, and if you have any rem¬ 
 nants of fowl or of veal, you may put them in like¬ 
 wise. Moisten this stock-pot with two large ladles 
 full of broth. Sweat it over a large fire. Let it boil 
 
 * Remark, that this broth is to be made for a very large 
 dinner only. 
 
 f Mark must be understood as a term to express the putting 
 in of all the requisite articles. 
 
8 
 
 to glaze without its getting too high in colour. 
 Next fill it up with some first broth that is quite boil¬ 
 ing. Put some vegetables into this pot, which is 
 intended for making soup only. But you must put 
 very few into the consommes which are to be re¬ 
 duced, and would have a bitter taste if the}* were 
 to retain that of the roots, and accordingly not be 
 fit to be used in delicate cookery. Idempotage re¬ 
 quires no more than five hours to be done ; strain 
 it through a silk sieve, and use it when you have 
 occasion for it, to moisten any thing for soup, 
 only clear or pure. 
 
 No. 11.— Clarified Consomme, 
 
 Is to be clarified as specified for the aspic and jelee 
 of meat. You must not forget, that such articles as 
 are to be clarified, require to be more highly 
 seasoned than others, as the clarifying takes away 
 some of the flavour. 
 
 No. 12.— Clarified Gravy. 
 
 Gravy of veal, or beef, is to be clarified with 
 whites of eggs. The gravy of veal is best suited 
 for the table of the great. The gravv of beef 
 may do for private families of the middle" class. 
 
 No. 13 .—Le Bouillon de Sante. 
 
 Mark or put into an earthen pot* or stock-pot, 
 six pounds of beef, one-half of a hen, and a knuckle 
 of veal. Moisten with cold water. Let it boil so 
 that the scum rises only by degrees ; skim it well, 
 that it may be quite clear and limpid. When 
 skimmed, throw into it two carrots, two leeks, a 
 
 In France, these broths are generally made in an earthen 
 pot, but such pots cannot be found in England. 
 
9 
 
 Head of celery, two onions stuck with three cloves, 
 and three turnips. Let the whole simmer gently 
 for four hours. Then put a little salt to it, and 
 skim off the grease or fat before you use it. 
 
 No. 14.— White Roux.* 
 
 Put a good lump of butter into a stew-pan, let 
 it melt over a slow fire; when melted, drain the 
 butter, and squeeze out the butter-milk, then 
 powder it over with flour, enough to make a thin 
 paste ; keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, 
 take care not to let it colour, and pour it into an 
 earthen pan to use it when wanted. 
 
 No. 15.—B, •own Roux. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a piece of butter pro¬ 
 portionate to the quantity of roux you want to 
 prepare. Melt it gently, squeeze out the butter¬ 
 milk, then put flour enough to make a paste ; you 
 must fry it on a slow fire, and then put it again 
 over very red ashes, till it be of a nice colour ; but 
 mind this is to be obtained only by slow degrees. 
 When of a light brown, you pour it into an earthen 
 pan, and keep it for use. It keeps a long while. 
 
 No. 16 .—The Coulix. 
 
 Make the coulis in the same manner as the gravy 
 of veal, with slices of ham, and slices of veal, &e. 
 When the glaze is of a nice colour, moisten it, and 
 let it stew entirely. You must season it with a 
 
 * We are unable to find an equivalent in English for the 
 French term rout. It is an indispensable article in cookery, 
 it serves to thicken sauces ; the brown is for sauces of the 
 same colour; and the colour must be obtained by slow de¬ 
 grees, otherwise the fiour will burn and give a bitter taste, and 
 the sauces become spotted with black, 
 
 B 3 
 
10 
 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, mushrooms* 
 &c. Then mix some brown roux with the gravy 
 of veal, but do not make it too thick, as you could 
 not get the fat out of your sauce, and a sauce with 
 fat neither has a pleasing appearance nor a good 
 flavour. Let it stew for an hour on the corner of 
 the stove, skim off the fat, and strain it through a 
 tammy, &c. 
 
 No. 17 .—Grand Espagnole. 
 
 Besides some slices of ham, put into a stew-pan 
 some slices of veal. Moisten the same as for the 
 coiclis ; sweat them in the like manner ; let all the 
 glaze go to the bottom, and when of a nice red 
 colour, moisten with a few spoonsful of first con¬ 
 somme, to detach the glaze: then pour in the 
 coulis. Let the whole boil for half an hour, that 
 you may be enabled to remove all the fat. Strain 
 it through a clean tammy. Remember always to 
 put into your sauces some mushrooms, with a bunch 
 of parsley and green onions. It is time to observe 
 to the professors of cookery, that the flavour comes 
 from the seasoning: if you neglect to put into 
 your dish the necessary articles to a nicety, the 
 flavour will be deficient. Mind that the sauce or 
 broth, when kept too long on the fire, loses the 
 proper taste, and takes instead of it, a strong and 
 disagreeable one. 
 
 No. 18 .—Espagnole of Game. 
 
 The same operation as above, except that in this 
 you introduce the loins and trimmings of either 
 young or old partridges, in order that this sauce 
 may taste of game. Put them to sweat. Remem¬ 
 ber that such sauces, if kept too long on the fire, 
 lose their savour, and fumet of the game.—This 
 
11 
 
 method may be thus abbreviated: mark a good con¬ 
 somme of game ; when done reduce it to glaze, 
 then by putting a small bit of that glaze in either 
 sauce, it will save you time and expence, and will 
 answer much better. 
 
 No. 19-— Sauce tournee .* 
 
 Take some white roux , dilute it with some con¬ 
 somme of fowl; neither too thin nor too thick. I 
 must repeat what I have already said, a sauce when 
 too thick will never admit of the fat being removed. 
 Let it boil on the corner of the stove. Throw in 
 a few mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions. Skim it well, and when there is no 
 grease left, strain it through a tammy, to use it 
 when wanted. 
 
 No. 20.— Sauce a VAllemande. 
 
 This is merely a sauce tournee as above reduced, 
 into which is introduced a thickening*f* well sea¬ 
 soned. This sauce is always used for the follow¬ 
 ing sauces or ragouts, viz. blanquetie of all descrip¬ 
 tions, of veal, of fow l, of game, or palates, ragout, 
 d-la-toulouse, loin of veal, d-la-becharncl, white 
 Jinanciere royctle, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 21.— The Vdoute. 
 
 Take much about the same quantity of con¬ 
 somme and of sauce tournee , and reduce them over 
 a large fire. When this sauce is very thick, you 
 should have some thick cream boiling and reduced, 
 
 * Sauce tournee is the sauce that the modern cooks call 
 velonti, but velonte will be found hereafter. 
 
 t Thickening, is what is called, in French, liaison; the 
 yolk of two or four eggs. 
 
which you pour into the sauce, and give it a couple 
 of boiiings; season with a little salt, and strain 
 through a tammy. If the ham should be too salt, 
 put in a little sugar. Observe, that this sauce is 
 not to be so thick as the bechamel* 
 
 No. 22.— White Italian Sauce. 
 
 After having turned some mushrooms, throw 
 them into a little water and lemon-juice to keep 
 them white. Formerly it was customary to use oil 
 for these sauces, as on account of its being much 
 lighter, it would rise always to the top, whereas in 
 thick sauces butter does not. Put into a stew-pan 
 two-thirds of sauce tournee , and one-third of con¬ 
 somme ; and two spoonsful of mushrooms chopped 
 very fine, and especially of a white colour, half a 
 spoonful of shalots likewise chopped,, and 'well 
 washed in the corner of a clean towel. Reduce 
 this sauce, season it well, and send it up. 
 
 No. 23 .—Brown Italian Sauce. 
 
 It is requisite in a kitchen to have what is com¬ 
 monly called an assiette, which is a dish with four 
 partitions, intended for the reception of fine herbs. 
 \ ou must always have ready some parsley chopped 
 very fine, some shalots the same; if the mush¬ 
 rooms were chopped before-hand they -would be¬ 
 come black ; therefore, only chop them when you 
 have occasion for them ; the fourth partition is 
 intended for the reception of bunches of parsley 
 and green onions. The chopping and mincing of 
 the above is the business of the apprentice, if there 
 be one under the head cook; if not, of the junior 
 kitchen maid. 
 
 Take two spoonsful of chopped mushrooms, one 
 
13 
 
 spoonful of shalots, one ditto of parsley.* Throw 
 the whole into a stew-pan, with two-thirds of 
 Espagnole sauce, and one-third of consomme. Some 
 people add white wine to the sauce. In France, 
 where there is a choice of light white wines, it 
 might be done easily, but in England, where Cham¬ 
 paign isthe only wine that can be used, it would 
 be too dear; besides, the sauce may be made very 
 good without any wine whatever, if you know how 
 to work it well, to its proper degree, with a little 
 salt, and still less pepper. Brown sauces are not 
 to be made thick. When the sauce is done enough, 
 you must shift it into another stew-pan, and put it 
 au bain marie. If you were not to skim this 
 sauce with particular care, you might skim off all 
 the parsley, which must remain in it. Italienne 
 that are preferred by all the epicurians, chop 
 some of the mushrooms, after they have been in 
 butter to preserve them very white; observe, they 
 must be very fine ; put them in a small stew-pan, 
 with a small ladle of blond doreal, the same quan¬ 
 tity of Espagnole sauce ; let that sauce boil gently 
 in the side of the stove, to scum all the fat; sea¬ 
 soned with salt and pepper, and put it au bain 
 marie for any thing w'anted. 
 
 No. 24.— The Sauce Hackee. 
 
 This sauce, although seldom or ever used in good 
 cookery, is frequently to be met with at taverns and 
 inns on the road. Such as it is, it is to be made in 
 the following way. Chop some girkins, mushrooms, 
 capers, and anchovies, which throw into a brown 
 Italienne , and that is what is called a sauce hackee. 
 
 * This sauce will have a better taste, if you fry the finer herbs 
 in a little butter, and moi-ten them after with the Espagnole, 
 and consomniL 
 
14 
 
 Why have I called this a tavern or common inn 
 sauce ? Because it is not requisite to have an 
 Italienne well prepared. A common browning 
 made with butter and flour, moistened with a little 
 broth, or gravy, and some fine herbs in it, will 
 answer the purpose of those who know no better. 
 
 No. 25.— White sharp Sauce. 
 
 Pour into a stew-pan four spoonfuls of white 
 vinegar, to which add some tarragon, (if you have 
 no tarragon, use tarragon vinegar,) and about 
 twenty pepper-corns ; reduce the vinegar to one- 
 fourth of its original quantity ; pour into the stew- 
 pan, six spoonfuls of sauce tournee , and two spoon¬ 
 fuls of consomme; then reduce this sauce over a 
 large fire. Strain it through a tammy, and then 
 put it again on the fire. When it boils, thicken it 
 with the yolks of two eggs, work it with a small bit 
 of butter. In case it should happen to be brown, 
 pour a spoonful of cream into it, to restore the 
 white colour, and put a little cayenne and salt. 
 This sort of sauce is used for all the palaces. 
 
 No. 26.— The Brown sharp Sauce , or Poivrfy. 
 
 In a small stew-pan, put a small bit of butter, a 
 small carrot cut into dice, a few shalots the same, 
 some parsley roots, some parsley, a few slices of 
 ham, a clove, a little thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a 
 few grains of pepper-corn and allspice, with a little 
 mace. Let the stew-pan now be put on a slow fire, 
 till it begins to be of a fine brown all round; then 
 keep stirring with a wooden spoon ; pour into the 
 stew-pan four spoonsful of white vinegar, and a 
 small bit of sugar. Let this reduce nearly a glace. 
 Then moisten with some Kspagnole and a little 
 co?isonimee, that you may be enabled to take the fat 
 
15 
 
 off from the sauce; season with cayenne and a little 
 salt. Taste whether there be salt enough, but 
 mind, it is not to be too acid ; skim off the fat, 
 and strain the sauce through a tammy, and serve up. 
 
 No. 27.— The Aspic Lie. 
 
 Put in a stew-pan such herbs as are called ravi- 
 gottes , namely, burnet, chervil, and tarragon. Add 
 two or three spoonsful of white vinegar, and let 
 the herbs infuse on a slow fire for half an hour. 
 Then moisten with eight spoonsful of Espagnole: 
 let the whole stew for ten minutes or a quarter of 
 an hour. Season it well, and strain it through a 
 tammy, to use when wanted. 
 
 No. 28.— White Ravigotte. 
 
 The same as above, except that, instead of 
 Espagnole, you use sauce tournee. Let it boil 
 for half an hour, then strain this sauce through a 
 tammy. Have the same herbs as above, chopped 
 very fine, blanch them in a little salted water, lay 
 them in a sieve to drain, and pour the ravigotte 
 into the sauce. Work it with a small lump of but¬ 
 ter, season with salt and pepper, and send up. 
 Never omit to taste the sauce, for occasion¬ 
 ally, according to the palate of the host, some 
 ingredients may be wanted, others too plentiful, 
 which may be easily remedied ; when too salt, a 
 jsmall bit of sugar corrects the briny taste. 
 
 No. 29.— Ravigotte a-la-Ude. 
 
 Take a tea-spoonful of catsup, ditto of cavice, 
 ditto of Chili vinegar, ditto of Reading sauce, a 
 lump of butter of the size of an egg, three spoon¬ 
 fuls of thick bechamel, a little new cream, salt and 
 pepper, and a little parsley chopped fine, and 
 
16 
 
 blanch very green ; this sauce is in high request, 
 and entirely the composition of the Author. 
 
 No. 30.— The Maitre cTHotel. 
 
 Take four spoonfuls of Allemande ; work this 
 sauce over a stove with a small lump of fresh butter. 
 Take some parsley chopped very fine, throw it 
 into the sauce with a little salt and pepper, and the 
 juice of a lemon. Let this sauce be thick, if in¬ 
 tended to mash* any entree whatever. At any 
 rate it is easy to thin a sauce ; but if too thin, it is 
 a hard matter to thicken it, except with a lump of 
 butter and flour, yet, let it be ever so well managed, 
 it is but a sad contrivance. 
 
 No. 31 .—Maitre (THotel maigre. 
 
 Is nothing more than plain butter sauce with a 
 little chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon- 
 juice. If shalots are acceptable, a few may be 
 added, the same as to the maitre d'hotel above. 
 
 No. 32.— Tarragon Sauce, or Plucke. 
 
 See No. 25, White sharp Sauce. Blanch some 
 tarragon, either in fillets, squares, or any other 
 shape you may think proper, and put it into the 
 sauce. It is then called Tarragon Sauce. In 
 other pluches, tarragon must always prevail. You 
 may make pluches of parsley, chervil, &c. with the 
 sauce called white sharp sauce. 
 
 No. 33 .—The Bourguignotte. 
 
 Cut some truffles into balls of the size of a 
 nutmeg : take some small round mushrooms, and 
 put about twenty of each into a small stew-pan: 
 pour over them a pint of red wine, with a small 
 
 * Mask, means to cover over with the sauce. 
 
17 
 
 lump of sugar. Let the wine be reduced to a 
 glaze. Then throw into the stew-pan six spoonsful 
 of Espagnole, and two of consomme. Let the 
 wdiole boil for half an hour, taste it, and if well 
 seasoned, serve it up. 
 
 No. 34.— The bon Beurre. 
 
 Take some Allemande , (Vide No. 20) rather 
 thick, into which put a bit of butter. Work the 
 sauce well, season it, and serve up with the juice of 
 half a lemon, salt, and cayenne pepper. 
 
 No. 35.— The Bechamel. 
 
 Take about half a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 about three pounds of veal, cut into small slices, a 
 quarter of a pound of ham, some trimmings of 
 mushrooms, two small white onions, a bunch of 
 parsley and green onions ; put the whole into a 
 stew-pan, and lay it on the fire till the meat be 
 made firm Then put three spoonsful of flour ‘ 
 moisten with some boiling hot thin cream. Keep 
 this sauce rather thin, so that whilst you reduce it, 
 the ingredients may have time to be stewed tho¬ 
 roughly. Season it with a little salt, and strain it 
 through a tammy, when it retains no taste of flour, 
 and the sauce is very palatable. 
 
 No. 36.—- The Bechamel maigre,* 
 
 Is prepared as above, with the exception of the 
 meat, which is to be omitted. If you have made 
 any sauces from fish, put a little of the juice or 
 gravy of the fish with the cream. When done, 
 strain it through a tammy, and serve up. 
 
 * This sauce is intended chiefly for those who conform to 
 the Roman Cathclic religion. 
 
18 
 
 No. 37.— The Genoese Sauce. 
 
 This sauce is made by stewing fish, }’et it is 
 natural enough that it should find its place among 
 the other sauces. Make some marinade of vari¬ 
 ous roots, such as carrots, roots of parsley, onions, 
 and a few mushrooms, with a bay leaf, some thyme, 
 a blade of mace, a few cloves, and some branches 
 of sweet basil—fry the whole slowly, over a miti¬ 
 gated fire, in a stew-pan, with some butter, till the 
 onions are quite melted. Pour in some Madeira 
 or other white wine, according to the size of the 
 fish you have to dress, let the vegetables stew. 
 When done enough, use it to-stew your fish in, 
 when done take some of the liquor to make the 
 sauce. Take a little brown roux , and mix it with 
 some of the marinade , to which add two or three 
 spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Now let these stew gently 
 on the corner of the stove ; skim off all the grease, 
 and season well, pour the sauce through a tammy. 
 Then put to it two spoonsful of essence of ancho¬ 
 vies, and a quarter of a pound of butter kneaded 
 with flour, and throw them into the sauce. When 
 this is done, squeeze into it the juice of a lemon, 
 work the sauce over the stove to make it very 
 smooth, and cover the fish with the sauce, which 
 must accordingly be made thick and mellow. 
 
 No. 38 .—Sauce a Matelotte for Fish. 
 
 Melt some brown roux , into which throw a 
 few onions cut into slices: keep it stirring over 
 the fire till the onions be dissolved in the roux. 
 Then moisten with the wine in which your fish 
 has been stewed, and which, by the bye, must be 
 red wine. Add some parures , or trimmings of 
 mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, well seasoned with spices ; bay leaves. 
 
19 
 
 thyme, sweet basil, cloves, allspices, &c. Let the 
 flour be well done. Remember to throw in a few 
 spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Now taste whether the 
 sauce be properly seasoned, and strain it through 
 a tammy. Then take a few small glazed onions 
 and mushrooms, ready done, likewise a few small 
 quenelles, and put into it some of the sauce, and 
 keep this little ragout, to put over the fish when 
 your matelotte is in the dish. When you are 
 ready to serve up, you must add the juice of a 
 lemon, and two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies. 
 Work the sauce well, that it may be quite mellow. 
 Cover your fish with the sauce, and then pour the 
 ragout over. 
 
 No. 39.— Sauce d, Matelotte for Entrees. 
 
 See Sauce Chambord. It being the same which 
 is used for the matelottes of brains, &c. The 
 matelotte when not of fish, is made with a ragout a 
 la financiere, into which you introduce essence of 
 anchovies and some crawfish, when you can pro¬ 
 cure them: this sauce must be highly seasoned, with 
 salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice. 
 
 No. 40. dpple Sauce for Geese and Roast 
 
 Pork. 
 
 Peel some apples and cut them into quarters, 
 put them into a stew-pan, with a little brown sugar, 
 and a little water. When they are melted, stir 
 them well with a wooden spoon, add a little butter 
 to it, and send up. 
 
 No. 41.— Puree of Sorrel. 
 
 Wash and pick some sorrel, and then put it into 
 a stew-pan with a little water: keep stirring with 
 your spoon to prevents its burning; when melted, 
 lay it in a hair sieve to drain, then put it on the 
 
20 
 
 table and chop it well with some trimmings of 
 mushrooms. When chopped fine, put it into a 
 stew-pan with a little butter and a few small 
 pieces of good ham ; let it fry a long time on the 
 fire, in order to drain the water it contains. 
 When it is become quite dry, mix it with four 
 spoonfuls of Espagnole , or more, if you have 
 any occasion for a large quantity ; and let it stew 
 for a long while over a small stove. After it has 
 been continually boiling for an hour, rub it through 
 a tammy. If it should happen to be too thick, 
 dilute it with a little consomme or Espagnole. If 
 too acid, put in a little glaze and sugar. You 
 must always put some cabbage-lettuce with the 
 sorrel, to correct its acidity. When you make 
 puree, of sorrel, if you have no sauce to put to it, 
 put a spoonful of flour to thicken the sauce, and 
 dilute with gravy of veal, and proceed then as 
 before. If you have no gravy of veal or of beef, 
 two spoonfuls of broth, and a small bit of glaze, 
 will answer the same purpose. 
 
 No. 42.— Sorrel en maicjre. 
 
 Pick your sorrel, let it melt, drain it, and lay it 
 on the table, as above. Mind that the table be 
 very clean. Then chop the sorrel for a long time, 
 and very fine, fry it gently in a stew-pan with a 
 little butter. When it has been kept for about 
 half an hour on a slow fire, to drain all the humidity, 
 th row in a spoonful of flour: moisten with boiling 
 hot cream, and let it stew on a slow fire for an hour. 
 Then season it with a little salt. If your sorrel 
 should be too acid, put a little sugar to it. Then 
 thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and serve up. 
 
 If you should prefer making a Bearnoise , you 
 make a kind of pap with flour and cream, or milk, 
 and let it boil. When the sorrel is done enough, 
 pour the Bearnoise into it, and let it boil ten 
 
21 
 
 minutes, then put the yolks of four eggs imme¬ 
 diately after to thicken it. In this manner the 
 cream will never curdle, whereas, if you follow the 
 other method, it most frequently will. If it be 
 with broth that you wish to prepare your sorrel, 
 instead of cream or milk, you mix some with it, 
 and use the yolks of eggs in the like manner, and 
 that is what we call farce.* 
 
 No. 43 .-—Puree of Celeri. 
 
 Cut the whitest part of several heads of celery, 
 which blanch in water, to take off the bitter taste, 
 then drain it and put them in cold water. Let it 
 cool, and drain all the water off. Then put it into 
 a stew-pan with a little consomme and sugar. Let 
 it stew for an hour and a half, and be reduced till 
 there be no kind of moisture. Then mix it with 
 four spoonfuls of bechamel or vehicle , strain the 
 whole through a tammy, and put it au bain 
 marie .f When ready to send up, refine the sauce 
 with a little thick cream, to make it white. 
 
 * A dish much used by the Roman Catholics; Eggs d la farce. 
 
 t Baai wzimeisaflat vessel containing boiling water; youput 
 all your stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always 
 very hot, but it must not boil. The effect of this bain marie, is 
 to keep every thing warm, without altering either the quantity or 
 the quality, particularly the quality. When 1 had the honour 
 of serving a nobleman in this country, who kept a very exten¬ 
 sive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was conse¬ 
 quently uncertain, I was in the habit of using bain marie , as a 
 certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes. If 
 you keep your sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fire side, the 
 soup reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens 
 as well as reduces. 
 
 It is necessary to observe, that this is the best manner of 
 warming turtle soup, as the thick part is always at the bottom 
 of the stew-pan; this method prevents it from burning, and 
 keeps it always good. 
 
n 
 
 No. 44.— Puree of Onion, or Soubise. 
 
 Take a dozen of white onions. After having 
 peeled and washed them, cut them into halves, take 
 off the tops and bottoms, mince them as fine as 
 possible, and blanch them to make them taste 
 sweeter and take off the green colour of the onions. 
 Then set them melting on a small stove, with a 
 little butter. When they are thoroughly done, and 
 no kind of moisture left, mix four spoonsful of 
 bechamel. Season them well, rub the puree through 
 a tammy, and keep this sauce hot, but without 
 boiling. You must also put a small lump of sugar 
 with the sauce if necessary. When you have the 
 oven hot, put the onions hermetically closed in a 
 small stew-pan well covered, and let them simmer 
 for one hour, with a small bit of ham, bit of mace, 
 half a bay leaf, and this method gives a better 
 flavour. 
 
 No. 45.— Puree of Onion , Brown , and Lyonaise. 
 
 Peel and wash twelve onions clean, then mince 
 them, and fry them in a stew-pan with a little 
 butter, till very brown. Then moisten with some 
 Espcignote, if you have any; if not, singez* with 
 two spoonsful of flour, mixed with some gravy of 
 veal or beef. Now scum the fat, and season well 
 with salt, pepper, and then strain the puree through 
 an old tammy, for these sort of purees would 
 destroy new ones ; and will always leave the taste 
 of onions. 
 
 For the Lyonaise make a puree of onions like¬ 
 wise, but then keep the sauce a little more liquid. 
 Take some very small white onions, cut them into 
 rings, and fry them till they be of a light brown, 
 
 * Singez is putting some flour into the stew-pan. 
 
23 
 
 then lay them on a clean towel to drain, and throw 
 them into the sauce. Give them one single boiling, 
 that the fat, getting at the top, may easily be 
 skimmed off; and serve up. 
 
 No. 46.— Bretonne. 
 
 The same as above, some denominate it 
 Bretonne , some Lyonaise. 
 
 No. 47 .—Puree of White Beans. 
 
 New white beans are the best suited for making 
 a puree. Put them into boiling water if they be 
 fresh, and in cold water if they be dry, with a 
 little butter in either case, which makes the skin 
 more mellow. 'When they are done, throw in a 
 handful of salt, to give them a seasoning. Fry a 
 few slices of onion in a little butter ; when they 
 are of a nice brown colour, singez them with half 
 a spoonful of flour; moisten with gravy of veal, 
 and season with a little salt and pepper, and skim 
 off the grease. When the flour is done, mix it 
 well with the beans, let them boil fifteen minutes, 
 squeeze them well before you rub them through 
 the tammy. Let your puree be rather liquid, as 
 it gets thick when on the fire. A short time before 
 it is sent up, mix with your puree of beans a small 
 bit of butter, and then serve up. 
 
 The puree en maigre is prepared in the same 
 manner; but instead of sauce grasse , you us ejus 
 maigre , or milk. If you wish to make it white, 
 you must sweat the onions gently and slowly, that 
 they may not get brown. 
 
 No. 48.— Puree of Mushrooms, White and Brown. 
 
 If you wish to make a white puree of mush- 
 
24 
 
 rooms, you must then turn the mushrooms white 
 in a littie water and lemon-juice : chop them; then 
 put them into a stew-pan, with a very small bit of 
 butter. When the mushrooms are what we call 
 melted, moisten them with four or six spoonsful 
 of veloute or bechamel. Do not let them boil long, 
 for fear they should lose their taste and colour. 
 Then rub them through a tammy. It is no easy 
 matter, indeed, with regard to mushrooms, yet 
 this sauce is called puree of mushrooms. 
 
 It is almost useless to observe, that for the 
 brown puree, it is enough to moisten with some 
 Espagnole only. If you were to fry the mush¬ 
 rooms brown, they then would turn black, and 
 make the sauce of the like colour. Skim your 
 sauce. Put a little sugar into both. All such 
 sauces as are called puree, must be made thicker 
 than others. 
 
 No. 49 .—Puree of Green Peas, new and dry. 
 
 The puree of green peas for an entree, is pre¬ 
 pared in the same manner as that described for 
 potage or soup. You must only keep it thicker, 
 and richer, which is done by mixing a little glaze 
 with it. But if you were to put too much, the 
 puree then would no longer retain its green colour; 
 neither must you let it boil, for it will lose its green 
 colour. 
 
 The puree of dry peas is made as follows. Stew 
 the peas with a large piece of bacon, the breast 
 part, a few carrots and onions, a bunch ol parsley 
 and green onions, a little thyme, and bay-leaves, 
 and some cold water. Let them bod four hours. 
 When quite done, pound them in a mortar, and 
 then rub them through a tammy, with the liquor 
 they have been boiling in. Let it be properly 
 
25 
 
 seasoned, and a short time before you send up, 
 pour in a verd de persil, or verd d’epinarcls, to 
 make it green. 
 
 No. 50.— Puree of Chestnuts. 
 
 Take some fine new chestnuts ; slit the peel 
 with your knife, and put a little butter into a 
 frying-pan. Fry the chestnuts till the peel comes 
 off, then boil them in a little consomme and sugar. 
 When done, add four or six spoonsful of Espag- 
 nole , and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep 
 this sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to get thick. 
 
 No. 50 (a )— Puree of Asparagus. 
 
 Take a bunch of green asparagus, break them 
 in the tender part, and wash them well, then 
 blanch them in boiling water, with salt to make 
 them very green ; when they begin to be tender, 
 drain them and put them in cold water; when 
 they are cold, drain them on a perfectly clean 
 towel, put a small bit of fresh butter in a stew 
 pan, with the asparagus, some branches of green 
 parsley, a few green onions, and fry them quickly 
 on a sharp stove to keep them as green as possible. 
 Add to this a little salt, a large lump of sugar, with 
 three or four spoonsful of sauce tournee. If you 
 have no sauce, singes with a spoonful of fine flour, 
 moisten with good broth Cook quick, and rub this 
 puree through a clean tammy, and add to it a 
 little of the green of spinach, to render it very 
 green. This puree should taste rather sweet. 
 
 No. 51.— Les Nouilles. 
 
 Nouilles are nothing but a French paste, which 
 the cooks prepare themselves. Lay flat on your 
 table, or dresser, half a dozen spoonsful of flour ; 
 
 c 
 
26 
 
 make a hole in the middle, and put in a small pinch 
 of salt, a little water to melt the salt, the yolks of 
 three eggs, a lump of butter of the size of a 
 walnut ; mix the whole well, flatten the paste with a 
 roller, about one line thick, cut it into slices of about 
 an inch broad, and next cut your noiiilies nearly as 
 thick. Blanch them in boiling water to take off 
 the flour that sticks around, and when they are 
 blanched, drain them and let them cool, that they 
 may not stick together. Put them to boil in some 
 good consomme. When sufficiently done, drain and 
 put them into whatever sauce you may fancy, 
 either a btanquette , an Allemande , or a veloute. If 
 they are to be served with a fowl, use veloute ; and 
 Parmesan cheese, if served for an entremH ; but 
 if for soup, serve them in the broth in which they 
 were boiled. This soup is very good with Parme¬ 
 san cheese; have the cheese scraped, and serve it 
 separately in a plate. 
 
 No. 52.— The Macedoine. 
 
 This sauce can never be good but in the spring 
 season, as green peas, asparagus, French beans, 
 and artichoke bottoms, are indispensably requisite, 
 besides carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and small 
 cauliflower sprouts. As it is very difficult to pro¬ 
 cure all these vegetables and roots at the same 
 time of the year, you must do the best you can, 
 and put in as many as you are able to procure. 
 Cut some carrots in the shape either of olives, of 
 balls, or small thin corks. Blanch them in a 
 little water, then set them to stew with a little 
 sugar and a few spoonsful of consomme , over a 
 sharp fire, that they may glaze without breaking. 
 Stew the turnips in the like manner, but sepa¬ 
 rately. Mind that the glaze of your roots be not 
 made too high in colour. The other vegetables 
 
27 
 
 are to be boiled in salt and water. Lay them on 
 a clean towel to drain : mix them with the carrots 
 and turnips, and three spoonsful of bechamel. 
 Toss them gently, so as not to destroy the shape 
 of the ingredients. If you are short of other vege¬ 
 tables, you may use cucumbers and mushrooms; 
 cautious however in using them, as they will make 
 the sauce too thin, it you do not pay parti¬ 
 cular attention. When the vegetables are done 
 separately, and you put in a brown Espagnole 
 sauce instead of bechamel , this mixture of vege¬ 
 tables has been termed Lyonoise ; that however* is 
 a winter sauce; the macedoine is a summer sauce. 
 
 No. 53 .—Sauce iTAttelets* 
 
 Take a spoonful of fine herbs, such as mush¬ 
 rooms, parsley, shalots, and a little butter, which 
 fry. slightly in a stew-pan. When the herbs 
 begin to fry, without however being too dry, 
 singez with a little flour, and moisten with broth 
 oi consomme. Reduce over a large fire, without 
 skimming off the fat. Season with pepper, salt, 
 and small spices. YV hen the sauce begins to 
 thicken, take it off the fire. Then throw in the 
 yolks of two or three eggs, well beaten: keep 
 stirring, and pour the sauce over whatever it 
 may be intended for. 
 
 Jso. 54 .—Sauce for Slurgeon. 
 
 1*11 i • ^ eon a marinade , that 
 
 which has seived either to baste the sturgeon whilst 
 
 This sauce is generally used to stick the crumbs of bread 
 round whatever you may wish to put in crumbs, instead of 
 butter. It is made use of for attelets of palates of beef, 
 sweetbreads, fillets of rabits, &c. &c. 
 
 c 2 
 
28 
 
 roasting, or serves as a sauce when baked. W hen 
 the sturgeon is done either in the oven or on 
 the spit, (the author prefers the spit, as the fish is 
 more firm than when done in the oven ; only it 
 requires to be basted often with the marinade , 
 and not to be too near the fire, otherwise it 
 will get dry and take too much colour;) take 
 part of this marinade, which reduce with some 
 other sauces, either brown or white ; and when it 
 begins to get thick, put in a good lump of butter 
 kneaded with flour, a little glaze , some essence of 
 anchovies, and the juice of a lemon. Mind not to 
 put too much salt, as a very little is required wffien 
 you use anchovies. Besides, you are always able 
 to add salt if requisite. 
 
 No. 55.—Red Sauce Cardinal. 
 
 Reduce some sauce tournee with a few spoons¬ 
 ful of consomme of fowls. When the sauce is 
 sufficiently done, take some butter of craw-fish,* 
 which throw in. Work it well, with a small lump 
 of fresh butter, to prevent the other butter from 
 turning to oil. Give it a good seasoning, and add 
 to it the juice of a lemon. The spawn of lobster is 
 better, gives less trouble, and has a finer flavour. 
 
 No. 56.—Lobster Sauce. 
 
 A hen lobster is indispensable for this sauce. 
 Put some of the spawn of the fish into a mortar, 
 to be pounded very fine ; add to it a small bit of 
 butter. When very fine, rub it through a bail- 
 sieve, and cover till wanted. Break the lobster 
 with great care, cut all the flesh into dice, but not 
 
 * Batter of craw-fish :—In England the spawn of lobster is 
 used: it should be well pounded. 
 
29 
 
 too small; dilute some of the red spawn in melted 
 butter, with two spoonsful of essence of ancho¬ 
 vies, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, two spoonsful 
 of double cream, and mix it all well before the 
 meat is put to it, as the meat must retain its dice¬ 
 like form. Do not let this sauce boil. It must 
 be very red. Add to it a tea-spoonful of carice , 
 and observe, the carice should be very old; two 
 or three years age renders that sauce excellent. 
 
 No. 57.— Sauce a la Lucullus. 
 
 Lucullus was one of the most renowned of 
 antiquarian gourmands; it is therefore natural to 
 assign the name of a man who has brought the 
 art of cookery into so high a repute, to a sauce 
 requiring so much pains, attention, and science 
 to perfect; a sauce which can only be sent up 
 to the table of the wealthy and true connoisseur. 
 After having worked the fillets, as indicated at 
 the entrees , you have the legs and loins left to 
 make the sauce, which is to be proceeded in as 
 follows. Put into a small stew-pan a few slices 
 of ham, one or two pounds of veal, and the legs 
 and rump of a partridge on the top of the for¬ 
 mer, moisten with a wine-glass of good consomme , 
 and put the whole on a slow fire, in order to 
 sweat it through ; thrust your knife into the par¬ 
 tridge, if no blood comes, moisten with boiling 
 consomme , enough to cover the meat; season with a 
 bundle of parsley and green onions, a few blades of 
 mace, one clove, a little thyme, half a bay-leaf, four 
 or five allspice, the trimmings of truffles and mush¬ 
 rooms ; let your consomme boil till the partridge 
 is well done, then strain through a silk sieve, and 
 reduce the consomme to a very light glaze. Then 
 take a sufficient quantity of bechamel , and mix a 
 
80 
 
 spoonful of glaze of game with it; but as this glaze 
 would make the sauce of a brown colour, you must 
 have a few spoonsful of thick cream to mix with it. 
 You must have for your saute , some truffles cut 
 into the size of a penny. Put them separately into 
 clarified butter with a little salt. 
 
 When you are going to send up the dinner, 
 sautez or fry gently the truffles, and when done 
 drain the butter off: put them separately into a 
 small stew-pan with a little essence of game and 
 truffles. As you are to mask those parts only 
 which are not decorated, take up the fillets and dip 
 them into the sauce, but no deeper than the part 
 which you have glazed slightly, in order to render 
 the truffles blacker. When you have dished a 
 large fillet and a small one alternately, you mask 
 th e Jilets mignons with the remainder of the sauce, 
 and put in the middle the truffles, cut to the size of 
 a penny, which have been lying in a sauce like that 
 which has been used for the fillets.^ 
 
 No. 58.— Veloute , or Bechamel , a new Method. 
 
 As it is not customary in England, to allow a 
 principal cook six assistants or deputies, for half a 
 dozen or even ten entrees, I have thought it in¬ 
 cumbent on me to abridge, to the best of my abili¬ 
 ties, the various preparations of sauces, &c. Put 
 into a stew-pan, a knuckle of veal, some slices of 
 ham, four or five pounds of beef, the legs and 
 loin of a fowl, all the trimmings of meat or game 
 that you have, and moisten with boiled water, 
 sufficient to cover half the meat; make it sweat 
 gently on a slow fire, till the meat is done through; 
 
 * When this sauce is made with great care, it is undoubtedly 
 the ne plus ultra of the art. 
 
81 
 
 this you can ascertain by thrusting your knife into 
 it; if no blood flows, it is then time to moisten 
 with boiled water, sufficient to cover all the meat; 
 then season with a bundle of parsley and green 
 onions, a clove, half a bay-leaf, some thyme, a 
 little salt, and some trimmings of mushrooms. 
 When the sauce has boiled long enough to let the 
 knuckle be well done, skim off all the fat, strain it 
 through a silk sieve, and reduce* this consomme 
 till it is nearly a glaze; next take four spoonsful of 
 very fine flour, dilute it with three pints of very 
 good cream, in a stew-pan big enough to contain 
 the cream, consomme, flour, &c.; boil the flour and 
 cream on a slow fire. When it boils, pour to it 
 the consomme, and continue to boil it on a slow 
 fire if the sauce be thick, but on a quick fire if the 
 sauce be thin, in order to thicken it. Season with 
 salt, but put no pepper. No white sauce admits 
 pepper, except when you introduce into it some¬ 
 thing chopped fine, pepper appearing like dust 
 should therefore be avoided ; this sauce should be 
 very thick. Put it into a white basin through a 
 tammy, and keep it in the larder out of the dust. 
 
 This sauce is the foundation, if I may use 
 the expression, of all sorts of little sauces; espe¬ 
 cially in England, where white sauces are pre¬ 
 ferred. On this account 1 have relinquished the 
 former method. In summer I was unable to 
 procure any butter fit for use. I accordingly was 
 forced to do without, and discovered that my sauce 
 was the better for it You must always keep this 
 sauce very thick, as you may thin it whenever you 
 please, either with consomme or with cream. If it 
 were too thin, it could not be used for so many 
 purposes. 
 
 * Reduce, means to boil down till reduced. 
 
No. 59.— Common Remoulade, and Green 
 Remoulade. 
 
 Take two or four eggs, boil them hard, then 
 pound the yolks in a mortar, add a spoonful of 
 mustard, pepper, and salt, three spoonsful of oil, 
 one spoonful of vinegar, and break the yolk of a 
 raw egg into it: if you have good sauce in your 
 larder, in preference to the raw egg put in one spoon-, 
 ful of it to prevent the remoulade from curdling; 
 rub it through a hair sieve, and serve it up. 
 
 The remoulade verte is the same as the other, 
 only you have a ravigotte , composed of chervil, 
 burnet, tarragon, and parsley. Pound all these, 
 and rub the remoidade and ravigotte , in the state 
 of a puree through a tammy. Throw a little verd 
 de persil into the remoulade , to make it look quite 
 green. Add likewise a little Cayenne pepper. If 
 approved of, you may put a few chopped shalots. 
 Should you want more sauce, double the quantity 
 of your ingredients. N.B. If you cannot procure 
 all these herbs, a little parsley will do, provided you 
 put into the sauce, half a tea-spoonful of each of 
 the following sauces, Chili vinegar, tarragon, Har¬ 
 vey’s sauce, carice, and elder vinegar, all which 
 ingredients give exquisite flavour to the ravigotte. 
 
 No. 60.— Mayonnaise. 
 
 Take three spoonsful of Allemande, six of aspic, 
 and two of oil. Add a little tarragon vinegar that 
 has not boiled, some pepper and salt, and chopped 
 ravigotte , or some chopped parsley only. Set the 
 whole over some ice, and when the mayonnaise 
 begins to freeze, then put in the members of fowl, 
 or fillets of soles, &c. The mayonnaise must be 
 put into ice : but the members must not be put into 
 the sauce till it begins to freeze. Dish up the 
 
33 
 
 meat or fish, cover it with the sauce before it be 
 quite frozen, and garnish the dish with whatever 
 you think proper, as beet-root, jelly, nasturtiums, 
 &c. 
 
 No. 61.— Egg Sauce. 
 
 Chop two hard eggs, throw them into melted 
 butter, and serve up. 
 
 No. 6.2.— Verd d 1 Epinards, or Green Extract of 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 Pick and wash two large handsful of spinach ; 
 pound them in a mortar to extract all the juice. 
 Then squeeze the spinach through a tammy, and 
 pour your juice into a small stew-pan, which put 
 au bain marie,* that it may not boil. Watch it 
 close, as soon as it is poached lay it in a silk sieve 
 to drain, and when all the water is drained, use the 
 verd, to green whatever may be required. Observe, 
 that the verd d'epinards made according to his 
 receipt is far superior to the boiled. 
 
 No. 63.— Verd de Persil. 
 
 The same operation as above. Parsley is a 
 necessary ingredient in many sauces, it gives them 
 an agreeable flavour. The verd depinards is 
 without savour, so that it may be used for entre¬ 
 mets ; but the verd de persil is intended for entrees 
 and sauces only. 
 
 No. 64.— Sauce a la Pompadour. 
 
 Fry or sweat white a few chopped mushrooms 
 and shalots in a little butter. When well melted, 
 add to them six spoonsful of sauce tournee , and 
 two spoonsful of consomme. Stew them for three 
 
 * See Bain marie , page 21. 
 c 3 
 
quarters of an hour, on the corner of the stove, 
 and skim off the fat: you must keep your sauce 
 rather thin ; then throw in a thickening made of 
 the yolks of three eggs. Moisten with a spoonful 
 or two of cream; add a little pepper and salt, and 
 work your sauce well. When it is done, have a 
 little parsley chopped very fine, blanch it, drain it, 
 and let it cool, that it may look quite green ; mix it 
 with the sauce, and serve up. A little lemon-juice 
 may not be amiss, but be aware that acids will 
 always alter the taste of good sauces to their dis¬ 
 advantage, except when highly seasoned. 
 
 No. 65.—La Dusselle. 
 
 This sauce is only used for panures* broiling®, 
 and papillottes, what are called in England the 
 coteleties d la Maintenon. Put a little butter 
 into a stew-pan with an equal quantity of rasped 
 bacon, together with some fine herbs, parsley, 
 shalots, mushrooms, pepper and salt, and a little 
 rasped ham ; and stew them on a slow fire. When 
 the fine herbs are done, beat the yolks of four eggs, 
 moisten with the juice of a lemon, and pour that 
 thickening into the dusselle. Mind your fine 
 herbs must not be too much done, for in that case 
 the eggs would not thicken the sauce. The dus¬ 
 selle is generally used for cotelettes a la Maintenon, 
 sweetbreads, and fat liver caisses, fillets of rabbits, 
 fillets mignons d la pompadour , mutton tongues, 
 les papillottes , &e. &c. 
 
 No. 66.— Les Pointes d' Asperges. 
 
 Pick some nice asparagus, not however of the 
 finest, but all of an equal size. Cut off the tops 
 
 * I call panures every thing that has crumbs of bread over 
 it. 
 
only, about an inch long, and blanch them in water 
 with a little sale, but do not boil them too much. 
 Then put them with whatever you choose, but 
 only at the last moment, and that for two different 
 reasons; the first, because they are liable to turn 
 yellow; the other, because they would give a bit¬ 
 ter taste to the sauce. If you wish to serve any 
 thing up with asparagus tops, you must put 
 them into a little veloute , or Allemande. 1 hey do 
 not look well in a brown sauce. For this reason 
 they are seen in Macedoines , Chartreuses, pates de 
 legumes , vol au vents, &c. If intended for soups, 
 never put them in but at the moment you send up. 
 
 No. G6 (a). — Les Petits Pointes d'Asperge. 
 
 Have some small asparagus, well cleaned, then 
 cut them all equally of the size of small peas, 
 wash and blanch them in boiling water with salt ; 
 when they become tender, drain, and put them 
 in cold water. Dry in a clean towel, and put 
 them in a stewpan with a small bit of butter, a 
 little bunch of green parsley and green onions, 
 letting them simmer quickly on the stove; add 
 a good lump of sugar, a little salt, two or three, 
 spoonsful of sauce tournee , if you have any, it 
 not, a spoonful of flour, moistened with a spoonful 
 of good consomme ; let this boil to keep the aspa¬ 
 ragus very green, put the thickening of two or 
 more eggs according to the quantity, two eggs for 
 a pint of asparagus—peas, and so in proportion. 
 This method, when well done, has precisely the 
 taste of peas, and is excellent for entremets as well 
 as for sauce ; for entremets you must use water 
 only, but for sauce they should be made tasty. 
 
36 
 
 No. 67.— L' Haricot brun. 
 
 Cut some turnips into the shape of heads of 
 garlic, wash them clean, and stew them with a nice 
 Espagnole , without frying them in butter, as 
 many persons do. If your sauce be of a fine brown 
 colour, the turnips will acquire the same. Add a 
 little sugar. With regard to salt, it is needless to 
 say, that not a single dish, or sauce, can be prepared 
 without it. When you have no Espagnole sauce , 
 take the trimmings of the chops of which you in¬ 
 tend to make your haricot , and put them into a 
 stew-pan with carrots, turnips, an onion, a little 
 thyme, and a bay-leaf; moisten with a ladle of 
 broth, let it all sweat till the broth is reduced to 
 a glaze of a good colour; then moisten with some 
 boiling water; season with a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions; let it boil for an hour, and strain it 
 through a sieve. Fry the turnips of a good colour, 
 dust them with a spoonful of flour, and moisten 
 with the liquor; skim oft all the fat, and cover the 
 chops with the sauce. 
 
 No. 68.— L'Haricot vierge. 
 
 Cut small turnips into the shape either of corks, 
 m olives, or into any other shape according to your 
 iancy. Blanch them with one single boil in water; 
 (.rain them ; next stew them with a little simar, 
 and two spoonsful of good consomme. Mind they 
 must stew over a sharp fire, that they may be re¬ 
 duced speedily, for otherwise they would be too 
 much done. When they are a glace , or reduced, 
 take them off the fire. Pour in three or four 
 spoonsful of veloute , according to the new method. 
 If the sauce be too thick, put to it a spoonful of 
 thick cream; do not forget a little salt. This 
 sauce must always be white, and is generally re- 
 
37 
 
 quirecl with glazed articles, which have a sufficient 
 degree of substance. 
 
 No. 69 .—Hollandoise verte, or Green Dutch 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Take a couple, or four spoonsful of sauce 
 tournee , reduced with a little consomme. Give a 
 good seasoning to it; add a verd de persil, and 
 work the sauce well. When you send up (and 
 not before), add a little lemon-juice, for otherwise 
 the sauce would turn yellow. 
 
 No. 70 .—Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a tea-spoonful of flour, four 
 spoonsful of elder vinegar, a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, the yolks of five eggs, ancf a little 
 salt. Put it on the fire, and keep continually stir¬ 
 ring it. When it has acquired thickness enough, 
 work it well, that you may refine it. If it should 
 not be curdled, you have no occasion to strain it 
 through a tammy; season well, and serve up. 
 Some people do not like elder vinegar, in that case 
 use tarragon, or plain vinegar. But odorous 
 vinegar is far preferable. 
 
 No. 71 .—Sauce Blanche, or French melted Butter* 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, a spoonful of flour, a little salt, half a gill 
 or glass of water, half a spoonful of white vinegar, 
 and a little grated nutmeg. Put it on the fire: let 
 it thicken, but do not allow it to bod, for fear it 
 should taste of the flour. Serve up, 
 
 No. 71 («.)—Melted Butter. English manner. 
 —Put into a stew-pan a little flour, a small quan- 
 tity of water, and a little butter: when the butter 
 
88 
 
 is melted, and the sauce quite thick, without having 
 boiled, serve up. 
 
 No. 72 .—Ragout ala Financiere. 
 
 You must procure cock’s combs, cock’s kid¬ 
 neys, fat livers, and a few fowls’ eggs. The 
 combs are to be scalded in the following manner. 
 Put the whole of them into a towel, with a handful 
 of salt that has not been pounded. Then lay hold 
 of the four corners of the towel, and dip the part 
 containing the cock’s comb into boiling water. 
 Leave it in for a minute, and then take it out, and 
 rub the whole well together, to take off the first 
 skin that is about the combs, and open your towel; 
 if the combs be not skinned sufficiently, dip them 
 into the boiling water a second time; but mind 
 they do not get too firm, because that prevents 
 them from whitening. When they are well skinned, 
 or scalded, pare the little black points that the 
 blood may be extracted. Next put them into 
 a stew-pan of water, and lay them on the corner of 
 your stove for two hours; in which there must be 
 but a very little fire. (Put your hand very fre¬ 
 quently into the water, and if you find it too hot for 
 your hand, the combs have spoiled ; you put them 
 in the water to extract the blood, and to do this 
 must have it of the same heat as the blood was 
 when the bird was living. If you make the w r ater 
 too hot the blood becomes hardened, and will never 
 come out, which is the cause of the combs so often 
 turning black.) Next blanch them, and put them 
 into a little blanc, by which is meant butter, salt, 
 water, and a slice of lemon. Try them frequently, 
 lest they be too much done. The kidneys are not 
 to boil, for then they would break. The eggs are 
 to boil a little, in order that the first skin may come 
 
39 
 
 off. This being done, throw the whole into blanc , 
 As soon as the combs are done, have ready a nice 
 Espagnole reduced, with large mushrooms turned, 
 and some small quenelles, which have been poached 
 separately. Mix together, and drain the ragout, 
 the combs, the kidneys, and the eggs. Put the 
 whole into the sauce with the quenelles / stir gently, 
 not to break the latter ; season well, and use it as 
 occasion may require. 
 
 No. 73.— La Godard. 
 
 This is the same ragout as the Jinanciere , only it 
 serves to garnish a sirloin of beef. You then add 
 pigeons gautiers , and larded sweetbreads; keep 
 your sauce thin, as you have nothing to mask.* 
 Ihis sauce must be of a very peculiar flavour; 
 7 educe two glasses of good Madeira, with a* very 
 small bit of sugar, and when almost brought to 
 glaze, put your sauce and ragout to it, which addi¬ 
 tion constitutes the difference between this and 
 the Jinanciere. 
 
 No. 74.— La Chambord. 
 
 This is a ragout like the Jinanciere , with this 
 difference, that you must first reduce a pint of Ma¬ 
 deira wine, and mix it with Espagnole.- f- Add to 
 the above garnish, soft roes of carp, some good- 
 sized craw-fish; mind to take off* the small 
 claw of the craw-fish, and to cut the nose very 
 
 • Mask signifies to cover; when you do not mean to mask, 
 the sauce must be thinner. 
 
 f This sauce only serves for fish, either salmon, or carp, 
 if you have boiled your fish with marinade made with 
 wine, reduce the liquor to put to the ragotit ; but if it i* 
 salmon, use only part of the marinade , as that fish gives an 
 oily taste to the sauce; carp and jack give a very good flavour. 
 
40 
 
 short; and two spoonsful of essence of anchovies- 
 The quenelles are to be poached in a spoon. This, 
 to be performed properly, requires two spoons: fill 
 one with the farce , which has been levelled all 
 round, with a knife dipped into boiling water. With 
 the other spoon, which is lying also in boiling water, 
 take the quenelle out, and put it into a buttered 
 stew-pan. When you have thus marked your 
 quenelles , pour some boiling water into the stew- 
 pan, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. A 
 small quantity of salt is required in the water. 
 Some people poach the quenelles in broth. In my 
 opinion it is wasting the broth. 
 
 No. 75 .—Salmi Sauce aVEspagnole. 
 
 Cut four shalots, and a carrot into large dice, 
 somQ parsley-roots, a few bits of ham, a clove, two 
 or three leaves of mace, the quarter of a bay-leaf, a 
 little thyme, and get a small bit of butter, with a few 
 mushrooms. Put the whole into a stew-pan over a 
 gentle fire ; let it fry till you perceive the stew-pan 
 is coloured all round. Then moisten with half a 
 pint of Madeira wine, and a very small lump of 
 sugar. Let it reduce to one-half. Put in six 
 spoonsful of Espagnole and the trimmings of your 
 partridges. Let them stew for an hour on the cor¬ 
 ner of the stove. Skim the fat off, taste whether 
 your sauce be seasoned enough ; strain it over the 
 members, make it hot without boiling; dish the 
 salmi , and reduce the sauce, which strain through 
 a tammy. Then cover the salmi with the sauce. 
 
 No. 76 .—Butter of Crawfish. 
 
 Pound the shells and lesser claws, &c. in a mor¬ 
 tar with a good lump of fresh butter, till made 
 into a paste. Put this into a small stew-pan au 
 bain marie. When it is quite hot, strain it through 
 
41 
 
 a tammy over a tureen, or earthen pan, containing 
 cold water. The butter will rise on the surface. 
 Take it when entirely cold, and use it as occasion 
 may require. 
 
 No. 77 .—Butter of Anchovies . 
 
 To make this butter, you must have young an¬ 
 chovies. Take them out of the pickle and wash 
 them well. Takeoff the bones and head; then 
 pound them in a mortar with fresh butter, till very 
 fine; rub this through a hair sieve. Tut this but¬ 
 ter, when made, into a pot well covered, to use when 
 w r anted ; observe, how r ever, that it soon becomes 
 rank. 
 
 No. 78 .—Glaze. 
 
 Glaze is very seldom made on purpose, except 
 on particular occasions. Lay on the fire a stock- 
 pot, with plenty of veal, and a small quantity of 
 beef and ham ; moisten with broth ; when stewed 
 for a proper time, skim it well. The glaze of 
 sweated broth is not so bright. Season the broth 
 with carrots and onions, a large bunch of parsley, 
 and green onions ; but no turnips or celery, for 
 they give a bitter taste. If you should have a grand 
 dinner, and wish to glaze of a nice colour, put more 
 veal into your Espagnole. The moment it comes 
 to a glaze, put part of it into a small stew-pan, 
 for the purpose of glazing only. The most com¬ 
 mon glaze is made of remnants of broth, the liquor 
 of braize , or fricandeaux , &c., which are to be re¬ 
 duced on a brisk fire. If you keep your reduction 
 too long, it will become black and bitter. Always 
 warm your glaze au bain marie , that it may not 
 get too brown.* 
 
 O 
 
 • Bain marie .—See note to No. 43. 
 
42 
 
 No. 79 .—La Sauce Robert. 
 
 Cut some onions into small dice, fry them of a 
 fine brown, moisten them with some Espagnole , or 
 singez,* and moisten with some gravy of veal. 
 Skim it, that the sauce may look bright; put in a 
 little pepper and salt, and just before you send up, 
 mix a spoonful of mustard. 
 
 No. 80 .-—La Livernoise. 
 
 Is a Macedoine, which you make with some 
 Espagnole , instead of bechamelle. Reduce some 
 carrots and turnips a glace, then put them into the 
 Espagnole , which must not boil. Mind that 
 the sauce does not taste of the roots. 
 
 No. 81 .—Le Hochepot. 
 
 Turn some carrots, and in winter time blanch 
 them. When they are young, that operation may be 
 dispensed with. Boil them in a little broth and 
 sugar; when done, reduce the broth, and put the 
 whole into a good Espagnole. Give them a good 
 seasoning, skim the fat off, and serve up. 
 
 No. 82 .—La Polonoise .*f* 
 
 Take some of the liquor in which a pike has 
 been boiling. Make a little white roux , moisten with 
 the liquor, and reduce it over a large fire. Take 
 a pint of thick cream, boil it, and whilst boiling 
 keep turning it constantly, to prevent a kind of 
 skin from rising. Mix the whole w ith the sauce, 
 which is to be kept thick. Have ready some small 
 turnips cut into corks or sticks, that have been 
 
 * Singez means, put flour to it with the dredgingbox. 
 t This sauce is only made for pike; take the liquor which 
 the fish has been boiled in, and make your sauce of it. 
 
43 
 
 boiled in a little water with salt and sugar ; drain 
 them well; add them to the sauce ; taste whether 
 it be duly seasoned, and mask, or cover the fish. 
 
 No. 83 .—Cucumbers for Blanquette. 
 
 Cucumbers are good only when quite young; 
 you must take care, however, that they have not a 
 bitter taste. Those are the best that have a rough 
 shaggy coat. Cucumbers are cooked in various 
 ways, either for sauces or for entremets. It 
 is useless to fry them in white clarified butter, (as 
 practised in France). As soon as they have been 
 pared, stew them in a little sauce tournee and 
 sugar, but do not let them stew too long. Lay 
 them in a hair-sieve to drain, reduce the liquor in 
 which they have been stewing, and thicken it with 
 the yolks of four eggs. Do not put the cucum¬ 
 bers into the sauce till you are going to send up, 
 for the sauce would get too thin. 
 
 No. 84. — Essence of Cucumbers. 
 
 Peel the cucumbers as above, and keep the 
 parings, w hich are to be made into a puree w ilh 
 a little butter. When entirely melted, drain the 
 butter, and moisten with the sauce tournee, in 
 which you have stewed the cucumbers, and which 
 have been drained upon a hair-sieve, and covered 
 with a round of paper. Reduce this puree to a 
 state of absolute consistency, and mix with it four 
 large spoonsful of beclvamelle. You must also put 
 a little sugar when you stew the cucumbers in the 
 sauce tournee. After having thrown in the becha- 
 melle, and reduced it, strain the puree through a 
 tammy. Put in the scollops of fowls, and toss 
 them in the sauce. If the sauce should happen 
 not to be white enough, pour one or two spoonsful 
 
44 
 
 of thick cream into it. A short time before you 
 send up, throw the cucumbers into the sauce. 
 Serve hot, and well-seasoned. 
 
 This entree is in high estimation amongst the 
 bons vivans, but it requires the greatest atten¬ 
 tion, or it will turn out to be but a very indifferent 
 dish. 
 
 No. 85.— Green Peas in White Sauce. 
 
 You must procure some very young peas. Do 
 not take those which have a kind of kernel, for they 
 are liable to break, and thicken the sauce. Put 
 the peas into an earthen pan, with a small bit of 
 butter, and plenty of fresh water. Handle and 
 shake the peas well in the water, and then drain 
 and put them to sweat in a stew-pan on a little 
 stove, with a small bunch of parsley and green 
 onions. When they are nearly done, pour in four 
 or six spoonsful of sauce tournee reduce it over 
 a large fire, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, 
 a little sugar, and send it up. If the sauce be in¬ 
 tended to masJc or cover the entrees , it must be 
 kept thicker. 
 
 No. 86.— Green Peas cl VEspagnole. 
 
 Prepare as above; the only difference lies in 
 using Espagnole instead of sauce tournee. Be 
 particular in skimming the fat before you reduce 
 the sauce. Whenever there are peas in a sauce, 
 you must always put a little sugar. 
 
 No. 87-— Les Pois au Lard , or Peas and Bacon. 
 
 Cut about a pound of bacon (the breast part,) 
 fat and lean, into square pieces of about an inch ; 
 which boil in water for about half an hour to take 
 off the salt, drain them, and fry them till they are 
 quite brown. Then throw them among the peas. 
 
45 
 
 that you have previously handled in butter as 
 above. Let them sweat with a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions. When well sweated, take the 
 parsley out, and put in a spoonful of Espagnole , 
 with a little sugar and salt. There must* be little 
 or no sauce, if intended for pois au lard only; but 
 if intended for sauce, it must be thinner. 
 
 No. 88.— La Sauce au pauvre Homme, or Poor 
 Man's Sauce. 
 
 This sauce is generally sent up with young 
 roasted turkeys. Chop a few shalots very fine, and 
 mix them with a little pepper, salt, vinegar and 
 water, and serve it in a boat. 
 
 No. 89.— Love-Apple Sauce. 
 
 Melt in a stew-pan a dozen or two of love- 
 apples ; (which before putting in the stew-pan, cut 
 in two, and squeeze the juice and the seeds out,) 
 then put two shalots, one onion, with a few bits 
 of ham, a clove, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few 
 leaves of mace, and when melted , rub them through 
 a tammy. With this puree mix a few spoonsful of 
 good Espagnole , a little salt and pepper. Boil it 
 for twenty minutes, and serve up. 
 
 No. SO.— Sauce d la IP parade, or Bitter Oram/e 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Cut off the thin rind only, and quite equally, 
 of two bitter oranges. Blanch it. Have ready a 
 rich Espagnole reduced, and throw the rind, with 
 a small bit of sugar, into it, and season it well. When 
 you are going to send up, add the juice of one of 
 the oranges and a little lemon. The sauce must 
 be made strong, on account of the acids. 
 
46 
 
 No 91 —La Sauce au Celeri. 
 
 Cut off the stalks of a dozen heads of celery. 
 Pare all the heads, and let them be well washed. 
 Blanch them. Stew them in a blanc , with some 
 beef-suet, some fat of bacon, a small bit of butter, 
 a little salt, and some lemon-juice. When they 
 are done, drain them well, cut them about an inch 
 in length, and put them into some bechamellc. 
 Ihis sauce is not to be too highly seasoned, but 
 kept thick for the purpose of masking. 
 
 No. 92.— The Pascaline. 
 
 This sauce is most particularly sent up with 
 lamb or mutton trotters. Make a white Italienne 
 (Vide No. 22.), keep it rather thin. Thicken it 
 with the yolks of two eggs, mixed with the juice of 
 a lemon. A short time before you send it up, 
 throw in a little chopped parsley that has been 
 blanched. 
 
 No. 96.— Sauce a VAurore. 
 
 Pound the spawn of a lobster with a little butter, 
 and strain it through a hair sieve. Take the strain- 
 ing, and mix it with a sauce tournee reduced, and 
 the juice of a lemon. This sauce must be highly 
 seasoned with pepper and salt, &c. It is generally 
 sent up with fillets of trout, or fillets of soles. 
 
 No. 91.— The Toulouse. 
 
 Have an Allemande ready (Vide No. 20.), and 
 rather thick. Throw into it a ragout of cocks’ 
 combs, kidneys, fat livers, the choicest mushrooms, 
 small quenelles , &c. It should be observed, that in 
 cookery there are two kinds of white ragouts the 
 one with the bechamelle , is called the Ragoht h la 
 
47 
 
 Royal; the other with the Allemcinde, is called the 
 Tottlouse, which, however, is the same as the Alle- 
 rn ancle. 
 
 No. 95 .—La Wasterjisch. 
 
 When you have boiled the perch with roots of 
 parsley T a few slices of onions, as many shreds of 
 parsley, and some pepper and salt, drain through 
 a silk sieve part of the seasoning which has been 
 reduced, with four spoonsful of veloute or becha¬ 
 mel/e. Then take some roots of parsley and some 
 carrots, cut in the same manner as for the julienne , 
 and let them stew with a little pepper and salt, 
 and Avater. Drain them and throw them into the 
 sauce. You must mix a few heads of parsley that 
 have been blanched very green with this sauce, and 
 a small bit of butter, some pepper and salt, and a 
 very little lemon. Mask the perch, or fillets of 
 soles with it. 
 
 No. 96 .—Oyster Sauce . 
 
 Be careful in opening the oysters to preserve the 
 liquor. Put them into a stew-pan over a stove on 
 a sharp fire. When they are quite white and 
 firm, take them out of the water with a spoon, and 
 drain them on a hair sieve ; then pour off the 
 liquor gently into another vessel, in order to have 
 it quite clear. Put a small bit of fresh butter into 
 a stew-pan, with a spoonful of flour, fry it over a 
 small fire for a few minutes; dilute it with the 
 oyster-liquor ; add to it two spoonsful of cream ; 
 let it boil till the flour is quite done, then add the 
 oysters, after having taken off the beards. Season 
 with a little salt, and one spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies. If the oyster sauce is to serve with 
 fowl, do not put anchovies in it, but add three or 
 four spoonsful of good bechamelle. 
 
48 
 
 No. 97.— L’llalienne with Truffles. 
 
 Chop some nice black truffles. Sweat them in a 
 little consomme , and mix them with the Brown 
 Italian Sauce (Vide No. 23.) If you happen to 
 have no Italienne ready, stew them for half an 
 hour in an Espagnole only. Let this sauce be 
 kept thin and highly seasoned. 
 
 No. 98.— La Manselle.* 
 
 Make a salmi as indicated above, with this dif¬ 
 ference, that you pound all the parings and bones, 
 &c. which you put into the sauce when it is done. 
 Rub this puree through a tammy, and pour it over 
 the members of game or fowls. This sauce is to be 
 kept hot, without boiling, otherwise it will curdle.-f 
 
 No. 99-— Sauce a la Marechalle. 
 
 Take a handful of green tarragon, and boil it for 
 ten minutes in four spoonsful of white vinegar. 
 Put in a very small lump of sugar with a little salt. 
 When the vinegar is half reduced, pour in four 
 large spoonsful of sauce tournee reduced, and give 
 it one single boil, then thicken with two yokes of 
 eggs. Strain the sauce through a tammy, and add 
 to it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Work 
 your sauce well, and pour it over the meat or fish, 
 quite hot. This sauce is to be kept rather thick, 
 that it may adhere either to the meat or fish. N.B. 
 If you have no tarragon, use tarragon or elder 
 vinegar reduced, and proceed as above directed. 
 
 * This sort of salmi is generally used for woodcocks or 
 partridges, if requisite. 
 
 t This sauce is called by the modern cooks, salmi d L'an- 
 eienne; the ancient, however, knew what they were about. 
 
49 
 
 Observations relative to the Sauces. 
 
 Amongst the number of sauces that have been 
 mentioned, many may be found that are not to be 
 used. The author, however, thought it incumbent 
 upon him to introduce them all, from a fearof incurr¬ 
 ing censure. If four entrees only are to be sent up to 
 table, it would be ridiculous to make preparations 
 that would answer the purpose of a grand dinner. 
 Instead then of using a great many sorts of broth , 
 suage , coulis , &c. merely prepare a stock-pot the 
 preceding day, if you have leisure, with twenty 
 pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, and a hen ; do 
 not season with too much vegetable. As this is to 
 be used for sauces, the vegetable would give a dis¬ 
 agreeable taste to some of them when reduced. 
 
 When you are to send up a dinner of six or 
 eight entrees , with a view of not carrying the ex¬ 
 pense to an extreme, take a nice rump of beef, and 
 about twelve pounds of buttock, a leg and knuckle 
 of veal, and, as there must be no waste, the rump 
 is used to make a remove ; make grenadins , or 
 fricandeau, or quenelles , with the noise of veal. By 
 this means the expense is reduced. On the pre¬ 
 ceding evening put into a stock-pot twelve pounds 
 of beef, with the bones and trimmings of the rump, 
 a knuckle of veal, and a few other parings, if you 
 have any. Set the pot to skim, and season it with 
 two large onions, one of which is to be stuck with 
 four cloves, three carrots, four large leeks, as many 
 turnips, a head of celery, a little salt, and leave the 
 whole to stew on a slow fire for five hours. Strain 
 the broth through a silk sieve, and skim the fat; 
 for if the broth of any description be not thus 
 skimmed, it will turn sour in the course of the 
 night, particularly in hot weather. On the next 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 dav mark your sauces with this broth; and the 
 day on which you are to serve the dinner, make 
 another stock-pot with the rump, a knuckle of 
 veal, and a hen, seasoned in the same manner as 
 above. This broth is used for potages , and to 
 moisten the braizes. 
 
 Mark=& in a stew pan some thin slices of ham, 
 and a few slices of veal, moistened with some of 
 the broth, which reduce to a glaze. When it be¬ 
 gins to thicken, so as to stick, put the stew-pan on 
 a very slow fire, in order that the glaze may get a 
 good colour without burning; then moisten with 
 the broth, to which you add a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions, and a few mushrooms ; let them 
 ^ stew for an hour. Next make a roux , and 
 moisten it with part of the gravy of veal; and 
 keep some of it for the gravy of the roasts; skim 
 all the grease off, and use it when occasion may 
 require. 
 
 For the white sauces, put some slices of ham 
 in the stew-pan with a few pieces of veal, the 
 bones and remnants of fowl, which moisten 
 with the same broth you have used for the 
 coulis , or Espagnole. When the meat is 
 sweated through, cover it entirely with boiling 
 hot broth, season with a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions and a few mushrooms, and stew the 
 whole for an hour and a half; skim off the fat. 
 This consomme is used to make either the veloute , 
 or beckamette, No 58, or la sauce tournee, which 
 is the key to all other thick sauces, &c. 
 
 The stock-pot must be put on the fire at 
 an early hour. The rump of beef must be 
 
 * Mark, or prepare. 
 
51 
 
 kept hot. Reduce to glaze the broth that you 
 have left after having made every article. This 
 glaze may serve either to strengthen or to glaze. 
 If you are frequently set to work, you must 
 always have a little glaze ready. By this means 
 you have no occasion to reduce your liquor 
 till the following day, and it will serve for the 
 morrow. 
 
 D 2 
 
CHAP. II. 
 
 POTAGES AND SOUPS- 
 
 ]sj 0 . l.— Soupe cle Sante, or ciu Naturel. 
 
 Take some broth well skimmed, and the fat 
 taken off. Take thin slices of crust of bread, cut 
 round, of the size of a shilling. Soak them sepa¬ 
 rately in a little broth. As you are going to serve 
 up, put the whole into a tureen without shaking, 
 for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil 
 the look of the broth, and make it thick; add some 
 of the vegetables that have been boiled in the broth, 
 and trimmed nicely. 
 
 No. 2 .—Poiage consomme of Fowl. 
 
 Take some consomme of fowl, and clarify it, 
 after having mixed with it some veal gravy, to 
 give it a good colour. Prepare the bread as above. 
 N.B. This will not serve for a large dinner. 
 
 No. 3 .—Potage a la Clermont. 
 
 Take some good broth, mixed with a little gravy 
 of veal, in order to give a nice brown colour to the 
 broth. Take a dozen of small white onions, cut 
 
53 
 
 them into rings, and fry them in clarified butter. 
 When they are of a fine colour, drain them on a 
 sieve, throw them into a little broth made hot, to 
 rid them of the butter that might remain ; then 
 mix them with the clarified broth, and let them 
 boil for half an hour. Put in thin bits of bread, as 
 in No. 1, and some salt. Remember that the 
 bread would spoil the look of the broth, if put in 
 whilst the latter is boiling. 
 
 No. 4 .—Potage & la Julienne. 
 
 Take some carrots and turnips, and turn them 
 ribband like, a few heads of celery, some leeks and 
 onions, and cut them all into fillets thus : —■ — 
 Then take about two ounces of butter and lay it at 
 the bottom of a stew-pan, and the roots over the 
 butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring 
 gently; moisten them with broth and gravy of 
 veal, let them boil on the corner of the stove; 
 skim all the fat off, put in a little sugar to take off 
 the bitter taste of the vegetables : you may in sum¬ 
 mer time add green peas, asparagus-tops, French 
 beans, some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter time the 
 taste of the vegetables being too strong, you must 
 blanch them, and immediately after stew them in 
 the broth: if they were fried in butter, their taste 
 would also be too strong. Bread as above. 
 
 No. 5 .—The Julienne , with consomme of Fozol. 
 
 The same as above, only you moisten it with 
 consomme of fowl, and put in the back of a roasted 
 chicken, which stew with the roots, and send up 
 with the bread as above. 
 
 No. 6 .—Cressi Soup. 
 
 Take the red part of eight carrots, two turnips, 
 
54 
 
 the white of four leeks, two onions, three heads of 
 celery, all washed very clean. Mince the whole 
 small, put a bit of fresh butter at the bottom of a 
 stew-pan, and the roots over it; put it on a slow 
 fire. Let it sweat a long while, and stir it fre¬ 
 quently ; when fried enough to be rubbed through 
 a tammy, add a small crust of bread, moistened 
 with some broth ; let the whole boil gently. When 
 done, skim all the fat off, and rub the whole 
 through a tammy. Put it to boil on the corner of 
 the stove in order to skim off all the grease, and 
 the oil of the vegetables ; then cut some crumbs of 
 bread into dice, fry it in butter till of a good 
 colour, and put it into the soup when you serve up. 
 This puree may be used with rice, vermicelli, Italian 
 paste, small macaroni, &c. 
 
 No. 7 .—Soupe a VAurore. 
 
 Take some carrots, the reddest that are to be 
 met with, scrape them well; wash them clean ; 
 then take off the outside till you come to the mid¬ 
 dle part. Sweat it in about a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh butter, on a very slow fire. When the 
 carrots are soft enough, put in a crust of bread 
 well rasped, and moistened with some good broth. 
 Let the whole boil for about an hour, and rub it 
 through a tammy, then pour a little more broth 
 in, that it may boil again. Skim it; when you 
 have taken off the fat, it will be of a reddish 
 colour. Put in some bits of soft bread cut into 
 dice, that have been fried in butter till they are of 
 a light brown. Observe, that puree is in perfection 
 only when the carrots are new, old carrots will 
 not answer : this puree may be used as above with 
 rice, paste, &c. 
 
55 
 
 No. 8.— La Brunoise* 
 
 Take some carrots, turnips, &c. cut them into 
 dice, and in summer time fry them in butter; but 
 in the winter season blanch them. When fried 
 without having lost their original colour, moisten 
 them with rich broth, seasoned with salt and a 
 little sugar, and let the whole boil for about an 
 hour. You may add green peas, asparagus-tops, 
 &c. Skim off the fat, and put bits of crust of 
 bread, the same as No. 1. soaked separately in 
 broth. These you put in only at the moment of 
 serving up, that the bread may not crumble. 
 
 No. 9.— Soupe a V Allemande. 
 
 Make a pate d nouilles (see pdte a nouilles), 
 cut into dice, blanch and drain it, and then let it 
 cool. Boil them in rich broth. When thoroughly 
 done, take them out of the broth, and throw them 
 into a good rich consomme of fowl well clarified. 
 When you take them out of the liquor in which 
 they have boiled, you must use a skimmer, and 
 drain them in a clean napkin, then put them into 
 the consomme , and serve up. If you do not use 
 these precautions, the broth will be muddy, and 
 not so well flavoured. 
 
 No. 10.— Soupe a la Condc. 
 
 Take about a pint of red beans, well washed, 
 let them soak in soft water for about a couple of 
 hours: then put them into a small pan with a 
 pound of the breast part of bacon, a knuckle of 
 veal, and the legs and back of a roasted fowl, if 
 you have any such thing by you. Tut the whole 
 
 * This soup has the same flavour as the Julienne , the only 
 difference is in Ihe shape of the vegetables. 
 
56 
 
 together with an onion stuck with two cloves, a 
 carrot, and a couple of leeks, a hunch of parsley, 
 green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, and a little salt 
 and pepper. Moisten with soft cold water, and 
 let the beans boil till they are quite soft. Then 
 take the beans, pound them, and rub them through 
 a sieve ; moisten with the liquor sufficiently thin 
 to admit the fat being skimmed off. Then bod 
 the soup in the corner of the stove till all the white 
 scum is entirely gone, then the soup must be very 
 red. Slices of bread fry and prepare as in No. 
 G. If you have good consomme in the larder, 
 you may dispense with putting any beef, veal, or 
 fowl in the beans ; bacon only, or the knuckle of 
 a ham, if you have one. The fat of the ham will 
 be better than bacon. 
 
 No. 11.— Soupe d la Faubonne. 
 
 Prepare the vegetables and roots, as in No. 6. 
 Mince some cabbage lettuce and sorrel, and sweat 
 them sepai ately; throw them into the soup when 
 you have skimmed off the fat. Slices of bread as 
 above. This soup is almost the same as the Cressi 
 No. 6, the lettuce and sorrel give an additional 
 flavour, and vary it slightly. 
 
 No. 12.— Soupe a la Carmelite. 
 
 Take some lentils d la reine , which prepare as 
 the beans above : when stewed, rub them through 
 a tammy ; moisten the puree with a little gravy 
 of veal, and rich broth. When well skimmed 
 throw in the bread. Send up rather thin, as it is 
 liable to thicken when getting cold.* If you have 
 a couple of rumps of fowl from the sautee , make a 
 
 * This soup is very good to- make when you have soupe 
 a la reine left; mixed with it, it is excellent. 
 
57 
 
 puree of it the same as that for the soup a la reiue , 
 which will make the soup more delicate. 
 
 No. 13 .—Puree of Green Peas. 
 
 Take three pints of large peas of a nice green 
 colour, sweat them with a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, and a handful of parsley and green onions, 
 over a slow fire, till they be thoroughly stewed, then 
 put them into the mortar with the parsley and 
 green onions; when they are well pounded, rub 
 them through a tammy , and moisten this puree 
 with the best consomme. Leave it on the corner of 
 the stove ; for if it were to boil, the peas would 
 lose their green colour. Just at the moment of 
 sending up, put in square slices of bread nicely 
 fried. 
 
 No. 14.— The same , made very green. 
 
 Take three pints of large green peas, fresh 
 gathered, boil them with a handful of parsley 
 and green onions in salt and water, very quickly ; 
 when they become tender, drain and put them 
 in the mortar, pound them well ; and when 
 you rub the puree through the tammy, moisten 
 with good broth, season with salt and sugar; 
 let it be va-y hot, but mind it do not boil, it will lose 
 its green colour : the bread cut and fry as above. 
 When the peas are not very green, you may use 
 the green of spinage. See page 33, or elsewhere 
 green extract of spinage or parsley. 
 
 No. 15 .—Macaroni zvith consomme. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, 
 and boil it in water, till it is nearly done. Strain 
 well, and put it into a rich consomme to boil. Let 
 
 D 3 
 
58 
 
 it be well done; rasp some Parmesan cheese, which 
 send up separately in a plate. 
 
 No. 16 .—Lazagnes au consomme , or Flat Ma¬ 
 caroni. 
 
 Take Naples Lazagnes; boil them as the maca¬ 
 roni (Vide No. 15), and serve up in the same 
 manner, with cheese in a separate plate. 
 
 No. 17 .—Rice Soup. 
 
 Take half a quarter of a pound of Carolina rice, 
 picked clean, and washed in two or three different 
 waters, till no smell or dirt remain. Blanch it in 
 boiling water, and drain it. Then take some rich 
 broth, season it well, throw the rice in and let it 
 boil, but not so as to be too much done, for then it 
 breaks and does not look well. 
 
 No. 18 .—Rice with different sorts of puree. 
 
 The rice is to be prepared as above : only mix it 
 with the puree you have chosen one hour before 
 you send up, in order that the rice may retain the 
 taste and colour of the vegetables. The purees 
 intended for soups are not to be so thick as those 
 that are intended for sauces. Those that are most 
 generally used, are puree of carrots, turnips, celery, 
 white beans, red ditto, lentils, green peas, the 
 cressi , &e. The mode of proceeding is the some 
 with all the various kinds of puree; they only 
 differ in the taste and colour of the particular 
 vegetable used. All the various vegetables being 
 mixed together, take the name of cressi. When 
 used separately, each retains its own respective 
 appellation, and is made as at No. 6, p. 53. 
 
59 
 
 No. 19.— Vermicelli Soup. 
 
 For eight people take a quarter of a pound of 
 vermicelli , which blanch in boiling water to take 
 off the taste of dust. Strain it and throw it into 
 some broth that is boiling, otherwise the vermicelli 
 would stick together, and could not be diluted 
 unless crumbled into a thousand pieces. All purees 
 used as above. Mind, the vermicelli must be 
 boiled in broth before you mix it with any of the 
 puree , and take care to break the vermicelli before 
 you blanch it in the water, otherwise it will be in 
 long pieces and unpleasant to serve up. 
 
 No. SO.— Italian Pastes. 
 
 Take Italian pastes, and prepare them as above 
 (Vide No. 19% and as follows (Vide No. SI). 
 Italian Pastes are made of various shapes, but are 
 always alike in flavour : they mix well with all sorts 
 of puree. 
 
 No. SI.— Vermicelli a la lleine. 
 
 Blanch the Vermicelli in boiling water, drain it, 
 and throw it into some rich consomme well sea¬ 
 soned. When done, a short time before you send 
 it up, thicken it with the yolks of eight eggs, 
 mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into the 
 tureen for fear the thickening should get too much 
 done, which would be the case if it remained on 
 the corner of the stove. 
 
 No. 22 .— Turnip Broth. 
 
 Is made with about a dozen turnips, peeled and 
 cut into slices. Blanch them for a short time in 
 water; drain them, and put them with a knuckle 
 of veal, a small piece of beef, and the half of a 
 hen, into a stew-pan; and pour some rich boiling 
 broth over the whole. Let the whole stew for 
 
CO 
 
 about two hours. Then strain it through a double 
 silk sieve, and use it with rice, vermicelli, Sic. &c. 
 
 No. 23 .—Potage a la Reine: a new Method. 
 
 For twelve people take three fat chickens or 
 pullets, which are generally cheaper and better 
 than fowls: skin them, take out the lungs, wash 
 them clean, and mark them in a pan with a bunch 
 of parsley only; moisten the whole with good 
 boiling broth : let it stew for an hour, then take 
 out the chickens: soak the crumb of two penny 
 loaves in the broth; take off the flesh of the 
 chickens, and pound it with the yolks of three or 
 four eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of bread 
 which has been sufficiently soaked in the broth. 
 Rub the whole through a tammy; then put a quart 
 of cream on the fire, and keep it stirring continu¬ 
 ally till it boils. Pour it into the soup. It is not 
 liable to curdle as when the other method is used, 
 and it tastes more of the chickens. If you think 
 proper to add either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let 
 it be stewed in broth beforehand, and pour it into 
 the soup only when quite done. When you have 
 a great dinner, and fowls are very dear, you must 
 use the fillets for entrees , and make the soup with 
 the legs only ; the soup is as good, but not quite 
 so white, as when made with the fillets. 
 
 No. 24— Semolina with Consomme . 
 
 Boil some consomme and throw the semolina 
 into it If you are inclined to mix a puree with it, 
 keep the semolina thinner. You may use any 
 puree you please, the same as with rice, No. 18. 
 
 No. 25.— Cream of Rice. 
 
 This is flour of rice, which you make yourself 
 in the following manner. Take a pound of rice, 
 
61 
 
 well washed in different waters, and drained and 
 wiped with a clean towel. Let it get quite dry ; 
 then pound and shake it through a sieve. Take 
 one or two spoonfuls of this flour, and dilute it 
 with broth, rather cold than hot. All this time 
 you have some broth on the fire ; throw the flour 
 of rice thus diluted into the broth, and keep 
 stirring till you find the soup is not too thick and 
 may boil without the rice burning. This same 
 kind of rice flour may serve for souffles of the 
 second course. 
 
 No. 26.—The Garbure , with Brown Bread. 
 
 Take a knuckle of ham, perfectly sweet, a 
 knuekle of veal, and about six pounds of flank of 
 beef, which put into a pan, with an onion stuck woth 
 two cloves, a few carrots, &c.; pour over the 
 above two ladles of broth, and let the whole 
 sweat over a slow fire. When the meat is done 
 through the middle, cover it entirely with boiling 
 broth, and let the whole stew for three hours. 
 Then take one or more cabbages, which are to be 
 washed clean and blanched. Braize them between 
 layers of bacon, and moisten them with the liquor 
 in which the sweating has been made, strained 
 through a silk sieve. You must observe, that if 
 the cabbages are not made rich and mellow, they 
 are good for nothing. Add to the above, either 
 sausages, bacon, or stewed legs of geese, if you 
 have any : mind above all things, that the cabbage 
 be not too briny, for the soup then would not be 
 eatable. When the cabbage and broth are stewed 
 enough, cut very thin slices of rye-bread : drain 
 the cabbage in a cloth, so that there be no fat left, 
 then take a large deep silver dish, lay a bed of 
 bread, and over that, one of cabbage, and moisten 
 them with a little broth ; let them gratiner on a 
 
62 
 
 slow fire. When the cabbage and bread are suffi¬ 
 ciently moistened, lay on six or eight beds more of 
 each, and let it simmer on the stove. Send up 
 with the ham on the middle ; the bacon, the leg's 
 of geese, and sausages on the borders, and some 
 broth separately. This soup is never seen in this 
 country, it requires a very deep and very large 
 dish. 
 
 No. 27.— Poiage with Cabbage. 
 
 Take four cabbages, with curling leaves; wash 
 them clean, blanch and braize them with a little 
 seasoning; observing, however, that for a soup 
 they are not to be so highly seasoned as for an 
 entree. Your soup may be prepared as in No. 1. 
 Cut the cabbages into quarters, and put them into 
 the soup when the latter is in the tureen. This 
 broth is to be prepared plain, and kept clear, as 
 the cabbages, being braized , are very tasty ;^cut 
 them nicely, and put them on the top of the soup. 
 
 No. 28.— German Cabbage Soup. 
 
 Take a white cabbage, mince and wash it w r ell, 
 and let it sweat on a slow fire in a little butter. 
 When it begins to get tender and to be a little re¬ 
 duced, moisten it with half broth and half gravy 
 of veal very clear; skim off the fat, and when the 
 soup gets of a fine brown colour, throw in slices of 
 bread cut to the size of a penny thus (), and send 
 up. 
 
 No. 29.— Soupe d la Bonne-Femme ; or good 
 Lady's Soup. 
 
 Take two handsful of sorrel; after having 
 taken off the stalks, put the leaves one above 
 another and mince them. Take the hearts of two 
 or three cabbage-lettuces, which mince likewise. 
 
63 
 
 Wash the whole well, then take about two ounces 
 of fresh butter, and put the herbs to melt in a 
 small stock.pot. When so, moisten with broth, # 
 and let it boil for an hour. Skim off the fat, and 
 throw in a little sugar, to take off the acidity of 
 the sorrel. Then thicken the soup with the yolks 
 of eight eggs, mixed with a litte cream. Remem¬ 
 ber to keep a little broth to soak the bread in. 
 If you were to put the bread in, you would not 
 be able to stir the soup. When you put the thick¬ 
 ening in, the bread will all break into crumbs. 
 
 No. 30 .—Polage aux Nouilles . 
 
 Take a handful or two of flour, with which 
 mix a little salt, the yolks of three eggs, a little 
 water, and a small bit of butter. Let this paste 
 be as compact as possible. Spread it very thin on 
 the table, next cut it in small slices as a Julienne ; 
 then blanch it in water, drain it, and let it cool, in 
 order to get rid of the flour, which might spoil 
 the appearance of the soup. Throw the paste into 
 some rich broth, and let it stew till it is mellow. 
 You may introduce either turnip broth, or puree 
 as above. 
 
 No. 31 .—Soupe a la Borgosse. 
 
 This soup, although a potage de desserte, has 
 some admirers even amongst the first epicures. If 
 you should have left in your larder a small quan¬ 
 tity of rice soup, or peas soup, or good lady’s soup, 
 mix and make them hot, but without boiling, as 
 
 * If you have in the larder, the back and legs of a roast 
 fowl,put them into a stew-pan with a few carrots,turnips, and 
 celery; a little parsley and chervil, &c. ; moisten with some 
 good broth ; let the whole boil till thoroughly done; skim it 
 well, strain it, and moisten the sorrel with this. 
 
64 
 
 tlie thickening would most undoubtedly curdle. 
 Rub the whole through a tammy, and put it into 
 a stew-pan au bain marie. Then boil some green 
 Windsor beans; when done, skin them, and throw 
 the kernels into the soup: when you are going to 
 send up, put in some bits of bread cut into dice, 
 fried in butter, and well drained of the butter. 
 
 No. 32 .—Milk Soup , with Almond Laurel. 
 
 Boil in a quart of milk, a leaf of almond laurel, 
 some sugar, and a little salt. Thicken it with the 
 yolks of six eggs just as you are going to send up. 
 Have a tin-cutter, and cut some slices of bread of 
 the size of a penny, (as the bread crumb only 
 must be used.) Cut a great many pieces, and put 
 them on a baking sheet over one another ; then 
 pour over them some fine pounded sugar, and place 
 them in the oven. Then put the salamander over, 
 to give them a good colour. Just as you are 
 going to serve up, throw two pieces of bread into 
 the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them. 
 Serve quick. 
 
 No. 33.—Potaae au Lait d'Amande. 
 
 Boil a quart of milk as above, seasoned with a 
 little salt. The bread as in No. 3% Put a 
 quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and a dozen 
 of bitter ones, into hot water, peel and pound them 
 in a mortar ; moisten with a little milk to prevent 
 their turning into oil. When sufficiently fine, 
 rub them through a tammy, and throw them into 
 the soup instead of a thickening. They must not 
 boil.* 
 
 • This soup and the above are intended for Lent, when the 
 Catholics eat neither meat nor butter. 
 
65 
 
 No. 34 .—La Tortue. Turtle Soup. 
 
 If you wish to make turtle soup with less diffi¬ 
 culty, cut off the head the preceding day. In the 
 morning open the turtle: this is done by leaning 
 heavy with your knife on the shell of the animal’s 
 back, whilst you cut it off all round. Turn it 
 upright on its end, that all the water, &c. may run 
 out. Then cut the flesh off along the spine, with 
 your knife sloped towards the bones, for fear of 
 touching the gall, which sometimes might escape 
 your eye. When you have obtained all the flesh 
 that is about the members, wash them clean, and 
 let them drain. Have ready a large vessel full of 
 boiling water on the fire, put in the shells, and 
 when you perceive that they come off easily, take 
 them out of the water, and prick all the shells of 
 the back, belly, fins, head, &e. lfoil the back and 
 belly in water till you can take off the bones, 
 without, however, allowing the softer parts to be 
 sufficiently done, as they will boil again in the 
 sauce. When these latter come off easily, lay 
 them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should 
 stick together, and put them to cool. Keep the 
 liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, 
 and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this 
 liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces. 
 
 All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs 
 and head, must be sweated in the following 
 manner. Lay a few slices of ham on the bottom 
 of a very large stew-pan. Lay over the ham two 
 or three knuckles of veal, according to the size of 
 the turtle, and over the veal, the inside flesh of 
 the turtle, and the members over the whole. Then 
 partly moisten it with the water in which yob 
 are boiling the shell, and sweat it thoroughly. 
 You may ascertain if the meat be thoroughly 
 done, by thrusting your knife into the fleshy part of 
 
66 
 
 the meat. If no blood issue, it is time to moisten 
 it again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. 
 have been boiling: put in a large bunch of ail 
 such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of 
 a turtle : sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon 
 thyme, winter savory, two or three bay-leaves, 
 common thyme, a handful of parsley and green 
 onions, and a large onion stuck with six cloves. 
 Let the whole be thoroughly done. With respect 
 to the members, probe them, to see whether they 
 are done, and when done, drain and send them 
 to the larder, as they are to make their appear¬ 
 ance only when the sauce is absolutely completed. 
 When the flesh is also completely done, drain it 
 through a silk sieve ; make a white roux very 
 thin, for turtle soup must not be much thickened ; 
 when the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, 
 and has a good colour, moisten it with the liquor, 
 and turn this sauce over the fire till it boils. 
 Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor 
 too thin, then put the stew-pan on the side of the 
 stove, to skim off all the white scum, and all the 
 fat and oil, that rises on the surface of the sauce. 
 By this time all the softer parts will be cold 
 enough; cut them about an inch or two square, 
 without waste, throw the whole into the sauce, 
 which must simmer gently. Then try them again, 
 for if done enough, they are not to be kept on the 
 fire any longer. Skim off* all the fat and froth. 
 Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock, 
 sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter 
 savory, two or three bay-leaves, common thyme, 
 a handful of parsley and green onions, and a 
 large onion cut in four pieces, with a few leaves 
 of mace, put them in a stew-pan, with about a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Let this 
 simmer on a slow-fire, till they are quite melted, 
 
67 
 
 then pour in one bottle of good Madeira wine, 
 adding a small bit of sugar, and let this boil gently 
 for one hour. When done, rub this through a 
 tammy, and put it into the sauce. Let this boil, 
 till no white scum rises: then take with a skimmer, 
 all the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put 
 them in a clean stew-pan ; when you have all out, 
 pour the sauce over the bits of turtle, through a 
 tammy, and proceed as follows. Make some que¬ 
 nelles a tortue , which being substitutes for eggs, 
 do not require to be very delicate. They are 
 made in the following manner : take out the fleshy 
 part of a leg of veal, about one pound, scrape off 
 all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and 
 soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of 
 bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze 
 it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small 
 quantity of calves’ udder, a little butter, the yolks 
 of four eggs, boiled hard, a little Cayenne pepper, 
 salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine. 
 Then thicken the mixture with two whole eggs, 
 and the yolks of another. Next try the farce 
 in boiling hot water, to ascertain its consistency ; 
 if you find it too thin, add the-yolk of an egg. 
 When the farce is perfected, take half of it, and 
 put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole 
 cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of 
 an egg ; poach it in salt and boiling water, and 
 when very hard drain on a sieve, and put it into 
 the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice 
 of two or three lemons, with a little Cayenne 
 pepper, and pour that into the soup. The fins 
 may be served as a flat cCentree with a little 
 turtle sauce; if not, on the following day you 
 may warm the turtle au bain marie, and serve the 
 members entire, with a matelotte sauce, garnished 
 with mushrooms, cocks’ combs, quenelles, &c. 
 
6*8 
 
 When either lemon-juice or Cayenne pepper have 
 been introduced, no boiling must take place. It 
 is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared 
 a day before it is used, is generally preferable, 
 the flavour being more uniform. Be particular, 
 when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve 
 the green fat* in a separate stew-pan, and 
 likewise when the turtle is entirely done, to have 
 as many tureens as you mean to serve each time. 
 \ ou cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for 
 many reasons : first, it will be long in cooling ; 
 secondly, when you take some out, it will break 
 all the rest into rags. If you warm in a bain 
 marie , the turtle will always retain the same taste, 
 but if you boil it often, it becomes strong, and 
 loses the delicacy of its flavour. 
 
 N. B. It is not the fashion to serve eggs 
 with turtle, but it may be necessary to inquire 
 whether they are preferred. 
 
 Some people require besides fricandeaux , blan- 
 quettes, &c. all of which are prepared in the same 
 manner as veal. (See fricandeaux , blanquettes.') 
 
 No. 35 .—Spring Soup. 
 
 Take carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and 
 small onions, cut into the shape of olives, blanch 
 them, in winter; but in summer, fry them with 
 a little butter, and put them to boil in clear broth, 
 with a little sugar. Put the soup in the corner of 
 the stove to skim away all the butter. Have ready 
 the green tops of asparagus, and French beans 
 cut into lozenges, which have been boiled sepa¬ 
 rately in water very green, put them into the soup, 
 
 * Be cautious not to study a very brown colour, the natu¬ 
 ral green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true 
 connoisseur, 
 
69 
 
 when j’-ou send up, with slices of crust of bread 
 cut of the size of a penny, and soaked separately 
 in a little broth ; if you have any peas, you may 
 put in some likewise, to boil with the soup. 
 
 No 3 6.—Potage d la Jardiniere , or Gardener's 
 
 Soup. 
 
 This is like all other Spring soups, only add 
 leaves of sorrel and lettuce, without the stalks. 
 Vegetable soups are in general very wholesome, 
 and have always the same taste. The cutting of 
 the vegetables forms the only variety. 
 
 No. 37 .—Mutton Cutlet Soup, or Scotch Broth. 
 
 Take some of the worst cutlets of the neck, 
 according to the number of persons you expect at 
 dinner ; trim them, but not too finely, put them 
 by, and with the trimmings make the soup in the 
 following manner: put in a stew-pan the mutton 
 trimmings, some seragg ditto, and a knuckle of 
 veal, moisten this with good boiling broth; then 
 season the broth with a bunch of celery, leeks, 
 parsley, one large onion, with two cloves, the 
 trimmings of the turnips, cut in/lice, and one or 
 two carrots. Let this broth boil gently three 
 hours, season it with salt, and skim off' the fat; 
 when it becomes of a good flavour, drain it over 
 the chop, that you must put in a small stew-pan, 
 large enough, however, to contain the potage, 
 have some barley that has been boiled a long time. 
 In general, I have my barley from the nursery or 
 the store-keeper, when they throw it out, it is then 
 quite in season for the soup; wash it very well, 
 and put it with the turnips and chop to boil one 
 hour. Skim again before you serve up. No bread 
 is used to this soup. Celery cut into dice, with 
 
70 
 
 the turnips give additional flavour: sometimes 
 the author adds, just at dinner time, a little parsley 
 chopped very fine, just as you serve up. 
 
 No. 38 .—Hochepot Soup. 
 
 Cut some carrots, turnips, and a few heads of 
 celery, into the shape of small corks or otherwise. 
 Blanch them, and put them into some nice brown 
 clear broth. Let them boil for about an hour or 
 more. You must have a few mutton chops done 
 separately, that they may not make the broth look 
 white. Throw them into the soup, with the bread 
 as in No. 1. Serve up hot, and without any fat. 
 The same is done with ox tails or some of the 
 cheek of the beef ; but take care to boil the cheeks 
 for some time separately in water, and to pour the 
 water away, otherwise the soup will taste like 
 tripe. When you make the soup with the cheek, 
 and serve it up along with the broth, it is a great 
 treat in a country house. 
 
 No. 39 -—Mock Turtle , English Fashion. 
 
 Take a calf’s head very white and very fresh, 
 bone the nose part of it; put the head into some 
 warm water to discharge the blood. Squeeze the 
 flesh with your hand, to ascertain that it is all out. 
 Mind the water should never be too hot for you to 
 bear your hand in it; as long as you can bear it, 
 the blood will come out, but if you suffer it to be 
 too hot, it will turn the head black. When well 
 disgorged, blanch the head in boiling water; when 
 firm, put it into cold water, prepared blanc in the 
 following way to boil it in : cut half a pound of 
 fat bacon, a pound of beef suet, an onion stuck 
 with a clove, and two slices of lemon ; add to these 
 slices of carrot, a bunch of parsley, green onions, 
 thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, salt and pepper; 
 
71 
 
 put all these into a vessel, with water enough to 
 contain the head ; boil the head in this, and take 
 caie to put it in a cloth when done, and observe 
 that it be not over-done ; let it cool in the liquor, 
 then make the sauce in the following manner. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan, a pound of ham cut in 
 slices, put over the ham two knuckles of veal, a 
 large onion, and two carrots, moisten with some of 
 the broth in which you have boiled the head, to 
 half the depth of the meat only : cover the stew- 
 pan, and put it over the fire to sweat through, let 
 the broth reduce to a very good colour, turn up 
 the meat, for fear of burning. When you have a 
 very good colour, and you find that the glaze is 
 very brown, moisten with the whole broth from 
 the head, season with a large bundle of sweet 
 herbs, viz. sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon 
 thyme, common thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a 
 few allspice, parsley, green onions, and a few 
 mushrooms ; let this boil together for one hour, 
 then drain it. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a 
 pound of very fresh butter, let it melt over a slow 
 fire; put to this butter as much flour as it can 
 receive; let it go gently over a slow fire, till the 
 flour has acquired a very good brown colour; 
 moisten this gradually with the broth, that you 
 put through a silk sieve, till you have employed 
 it all, add half a bottle of Madeira; let the 
 sauce boil, that the Hour may be well done; 
 take off' all the scum and fat; cut the calfs head 
 into square pieces of about an inch each; put 
 them to boil in the sauce ; season with salt and 
 Cayenne, pepper, and lemon-juice, and add some 
 quenelles. —(S ee farce a quenelle), the bit of calf’s 
 head should always have the skin on one side, but 
 you should leave none of the meat on that does 
 not adhere to the skin, otherwise the meat will 
 
break in the soup, and look unseemly. It is out 
 of fashion now to use eg-gs, but on this head consult 
 the taste of your principal. 
 
 Observe, that you must not have the quenelles 
 too delicate, for they would break in the soup, 
 and spoil the look of it; the calf’s head must not 
 be too much done ; thrust your knife into the 
 skin, and if the knife enters and detaches itself 
 easily, the meat is done enough. Some gentlemen 
 will have their mock turtle green ; in that case, 
 you must do as follows : put into a stew-pan a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one or 
 two onions, add a handful of each of the herbs 
 described above, and some parsley, and sweat it 
 all gently over a slow fire. When the herbs are 
 well done, moisten with some of the sauce, and 
 rub it through a tammy. Lastly, mix this with the 
 sauce, and the turtle will be green, without any 
 alteration in the flavour. 
 
 No. 40.— Potage a la Bouveau. 
 
 Take some turnips, peel them, and use a cutter 
 with which you cut out a few balls as round as 
 possible, but very small. Blanch them, and boil 
 them in some consomme , well clarified, with a 
 little sugar. Serve up with bits of bread as in 
 No. 1. It must appear very bright; put to it 
 two spoonsful of gravy veal. 
 
 No. 41. —Potage a la Regenca. 
 
 This potage can onhg be in perfection when 
 you have game , and is not very expensive, as 
 it usually is made with unused tones and legs 
 of pheasants, proceed as follows: 
 
 Take the back, the leg, and other bones of one 
 or two roasted pheasants, which place in a stew- 
 pan, with slices of carrot, onions, celery, turnips, 
 
73 
 
 and a little chervil; moisten with good boiling 
 broth, and let it boil gently for two hours. 
 Skim all the fat, and drain the broth through a 
 silk sieve; have some pearl barley, which has 
 been well washed and boiled in water several times. 
 Boil it in some of the broth. When the barley is 
 done, take out with a skimmer several spoonsful; put 
 what is in the broth in the sieve, and pound it 
 in the mortar, with the yolks of six eggs: when 
 you have finished pounding it, rub it through a 
 clean tammy, adding to the broth half a pint of 
 cream, boiled, and salt of good taste; serve as hot 
 as possible, with the barley in it that you took 
 out first. 
 
 F. 
 
*h 
 
 ENTRIES THAT ARE TO BE SERVED AS SOUPS, 
 OR WHICH WANT MUCH SAUCE, AND ARE CONSE¬ 
 QUENTLY TO BE SERVED IN DEEP DISHES. 
 
 No. 1 .—Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. 
 
 Boil some Naples macaroni in water, salt, and 
 butter. When it is done, put into a stew-pan a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, some rasped Parme¬ 
 san cheese, some Gruyere or Swiss cheese, likewise 
 a little pepper, and a spoonful of cream. Then 
 drain the macaroni, and toss it till the cheese be 
 well mixed with it ; then pour it into a dish ; 
 sprinkle some rasped cheese over it, baste it with 
 a little butter, and use the salamander to make it 
 brown, for the butter would turn to oil if you were 
 to bake it in the oven. 
 
 No. 2 .—Breast of Mutton d la Bourgoise. 
 
 Take some breast and scrag of mutton, cut in 
 square bits, of two or three inches each in size. 
 Let it have as little fat as possible, put the mutton 
 in a stew-pan, with a little fat or butter. Fry the 
 mutton till it is of a very good colour, and very 
 brown, then throw the fat cut, singez with a little 
 flour, salt, pepper, one onion, a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions, seasoned with a few bay-leaves, 
 thyme, &c. Moisten with water only, and let this 
 boil gently till the mutton is nearly done, then 
 take all the fat out, by putting the sauce in a small 
 vessel. Let the fat rise to the top, then put the 
 sauce again, and add to it two quarts of young peas ; 
 
75 
 
 let them boil gently, till clone. Take out the 
 bunch and onion, season of a good taste, and serve 
 up. This is an excellent means of cooking the 
 lower part of mutton for servants, as the author 
 has done always in the summer. When you have 
 any bacon to spare, add some to it, it gives 
 additional flavour. 
 
 No. o. Breast of Lamb with Green Peas, brown. 
 
 Braize the whole breast; when it is done take 
 out the small bones, flatten it between two dishes, 
 and let it cool. Next cut it into the size of small 
 chops, and warm it in some of the liquor in which 
 the breast has been braized; lastly, drain and 
 glaze it, and cover it with the peas in the follow¬ 
 ing manner. 
 
 lake some very fine peas, which you handle in 
 watei with a little fresh butter; drain them, then 
 sweat them over a very slow fire, with a small slice 
 of ham, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. 
 When they are nearly done, take out the ham, 
 and the parsley and onions ; reduce them with 
 two spoonsful of Espagnole and a little sugar. 
 Pliey are used to mash the meat. If you have 
 no Espagnole , put a tea-spoonful of flour with 
 the peas, moisten with some of the liquor which 
 has braized the breast of lamb or mutton ; reduce 
 it, and season with salt and pepper; mind that 
 the sauce must be very short. 
 
 No. 4*.—Breast of Lamb with Peas , white . 
 
 Take a breast of lamb, which braize as above. 
 Stew the peas also in the same manner ; but instead 
 of using the Espagnole you must use the sauce 
 tournee. When you have no sauce tournee , a 
 small bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of flour, 
 will answer the same purpose; moisten with broth 
 
 e 2 
 
76 
 
 only. Thicken the sauce with the yolks of two 
 eggs, that it may look whiter. (See Sauces .) 
 
 No. 5.— Tendons of Veal with Peas. 
 
 (See entrees de Veau.) I mention them here, 
 only because they are sent up in deep dishes. 
 The peas are prepared as above. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 6.— Tendons of Veal , en Haricots Vierges. 
 
 Braize them as indicated (entrees of Veal), and 
 mask them with an haricot vierge. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 7.— Tendons of Veal en Chipolata. 
 
 Braize the tendons as above. The chipolata is 
 made in the following manner. Have some chest¬ 
 nuts ready peeled and boiled; take a few small 
 sausages, which twist to make them very short, 
 prick them with a fork, and put them in a sauty- 
 pan in the oven ; when done, drain the fat, and add 
 some small onions stewed very white, likewise bits of 
 bacon, the breast part, cut into the shape of corks, 
 which also should be stewed white, and some 
 mushrooms, which you stew with some sauce 
 tournee. When the sauce is in a proper state of 
 forwardness, skim all the fat, and thicken it ; put 
 in all the ingredients, and after having .dished the 
 tendons in the shape of a miroton, or one upon 
 another round the dish, put the chipolata into the 
 middle, but keep some of the sauce to mask the 
 tendons. You may add some cocks’-combs, &c. 
 It is almost unnecessary to observe, that all the in¬ 
 gredients of the chipolata should be done sepa¬ 
 rately, and put into the sauce when ready to 
 serve up. When you want to serve the chipolata 
 white, you should use white sauce instead of brown; 
 the reason for having two colours is, that some- 
 
77 
 
 times in spite of your endeavours to keep the ten¬ 
 dons, as well as all the other ingredients, white, 
 you can only succeed in obtaining a darkish colour. 
 In that case, you should make the c hipolcita 
 brown. This is an excellent dish, but has not a 
 very prepossessing appearance, as the tendons do 
 not di’ess well. If it be well done, it never looks 
 well, but if it be ill-done, it is absolutely uneat¬ 
 able. 
 
 No. 8.— Green Peas with Bacon , French Fashion. 
 
 These maybe served without any other meat; 
 but they may also serve as a sauce for tendons , 
 either of veal or of lamb, members of fowl, and 
 giblets of turkey. It is to be observed, however, 
 that those articles which are served in a deep dish, 
 should be cut up, as you could not carve them in 
 so much liquid. r L ake about a pound of bacon from 
 the breast, cut in bits of an inch square, boil it in 
 water to extract the salt, then fry it in a little but¬ 
 ter till it becomes of a fine brown. Next handle some 
 fine peas, and a little fresh butter in cold water. 
 After having drained them, put them into a stew- 
 pan with the bacon, a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions. Let the whole sweat over a slow fire. 
 When nearly done, moisten with two or three 
 spoonsful of Espagnole and a little bit of sugar. 
 Boil them a few minutes. Send up either with or 
 without other meat. Do not neglect seasoning 
 with a little salt and pepper, but be cautious of the 
 brine of the bacon. 
 
 No. 9.— Breast of Mutton en Haricot. 
 
 Braize the breast of mutton as you would do any 
 other meat; when done, take out the small bones 
 and let the breast cook Then have the meat cut 
 into hearts; warm them again separately in a little 
 
78 
 
 of the liquor, and after having drained them, mask 
 them with the haricot. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 10. ( a )-— Haricot of Mutton d la Burgeoise. 
 
 Cut the breast, neck, and scrag of mutton in 
 pieces of about three inches each ; put them into 
 a stew-pan with a little fat of any kind. Let the 
 meat fry a nice colour in a stew-pan, or fry-pan; 
 when the mutton becomes of a good colour, shake 
 the flour box over, and add some salt and pep¬ 
 per. Moisten this with boiling water, adding a 
 large onion, with two cloves stuck in it, a bunch of 
 parsley and green onions well spiced. Let this 
 boil till the meat be nearly done; skim all the fat, 
 and then add some turnips that you have trimmed 
 without much loss, and have fried with a little 
 sugar to give them a good colour. Put the turnips 
 to the mutton, skim away all the fat, and take out 
 the onions and the bunch, and serve up. This is 
 a useful and agreeable family dish. Sometimes 
 you put potatoes in lieu of the turnips, but take care 
 they do not break. 
 
 No. 11.— Breast of Mutton en Hochepot. 
 
 Braize* it as above, and mask it with a hochepot. 
 (See Sauces.) 
 
 * Braizes in general .—It is necessary to observe, that 
 every thing which has the name of braize, must be done 
 thoroughly, and must likewise be seasoned with vegetables, 
 spices, sweet herbs, &c. Braizes belong rather to a common 
 style of cookery, but to be made in perfection require the 
 utmost nicety of the art. They require so much care, and such 
 constant attention, as to be frequently neglected in a gentle¬ 
 man’s kitchen. I shall name the things in most common use, 
 which belong to the class of braizes, viz. fricandeaux, sweet¬ 
 breads, mutton, (l la soubise, tendons of veal in all theirstyles, 
 galentines, cotelettes a, la dreux , ditto cl la chalon, partridges 
 with cabbage, pheasants ditto, rump of beef, breast of ditto. 
 
79 
 
 No. 12.— Lamb's Pluck h la Pascaline . 
 
 Take the head, trotters, liver, lights, &c.; bone 
 the head and trotters as well as you can. Set. 
 them to disgorge, and blanch them. Then boil 
 them in a blanc as you would do a calf’s head 
 When thoroughly done, drain them and cover them 
 with the pascaline , which is nothing more than 
 a white Italienne , that you have thickened. (See 
 Sauces.) 
 
 No. 13.— The Civet of Hare 
 
 Is introduced here, to imply that it is sent up in 
 a deep dish. See entrees of Game , and Hare 
 Soup.) 
 
 No. 14.— Duck , with Sour~Crout. 
 
 Sour-crout is sold ready pickled. Drain some* 
 and put it into a braizing-pan with a piece of bacon 
 (the breast part,) a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, spices, bay-leaves, thyme, and mace; put 
 also a little whole pepper. Next place the duck in 
 the middle of the sour-crout, cover the whole with 
 layers of bacon, and moisten with some liquor of 
 braize r, or top-pot,* strained through a silk sieve. 
 If you happen to have a knuckle of ham, you may 
 put it in after having blanched it. You may add a 
 German sausage, together with some English sau¬ 
 sages, observing that the small sausages must not 
 
 leg of mutton, &c. &c. are all braized. Every thing that is 
 termed poele , must have its proper time to be done ; and as 
 the poiile should preserve the colour of the fowl, and some¬ 
 times even whiten it, it is not an easy matter to make it in per¬ 
 fection. 
 
 * Top-pot, is the fat that rises over the broth. 
 
80 
 
 be added till half an hour before serving up, other¬ 
 wise they would be too much done. Three hours 
 are required for the above to be done over a slow 
 fire. When the sour-crout is done, put it into a 
 large hair sieve to drain; then dish it, that is, put it 
 into a deep dish with the duck in the middle, the 
 sausages and bacon, &c. being put round it. The 
 duck will be better if cut into four, as it is difficult 
 to carve any thing that has so many other things 
 with it. 
 
 No. 15 .—Members of Duck, with French Sour- 
 
 crout. 
 
 Braize the duck, in the same manner as that 
 with the puree of green peas, and mask it with the 
 sour-crout, which is made as follows:—Take off 
 the stock of a white cabbage, mince the whole 
 nearly as is done for sour-crout; cut some bacon 
 (the breast part) into small squares of about an 
 inch in size; fry them a little, and then take them 
 out to put the cabbages into the grease, in which 
 they are to sweat. When nearly done, put the 
 bacon in again, and moisten with some thin sauce 
 tournee , because if it were thick you could not get 
 the fat off. Skim off all the fat, reduce the cab¬ 
 bage, and use it to mask the duck. You may also 
 put in some sausages that have been braized with 
 the duck. 
 
 No. 16 '.'—Haricot of Turkey Giblets . 
 
 We call giblets of turkey, the pinions, the neck, 
 the liver, the gizzard, &c. When all those parts 
 have been washed clean, and scalded, to disgorge 
 all the blood, blanch them, and simmer them over 
 a sharp fire, then wipe them very clean, and place 
 them in a stew-pan. Wrap them up in layers of 
 bacon; moisten with good broth, a little salt 
 and pepper, and a bunch of parsley seasoned. 
 
81 
 
 When done, drain them, and after having placed 
 them in the dish, cover them with the haricot. 
 (See Haricot.) 
 
 No. 17 .—Haricot of Turkey Pinions. 
 
 Take the pinions of half a dozen turkeys ; bone 
 them as far as the middle joint, and let them dis¬ 
 gorge in warm water; next blanch and singe them, 
 mark them well wrapt up in layers of bacon, and 
 moisten with a braize , if you have any : if not, 
 with a small bit of butter, a little broth and salt, an 
 onion and two cloves, and a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions. When done, drain them and mask 
 with the haricot. 
 
 No. 18 .—Legs of Fowls with NouiTles. 
 
 When you have a large dinner to send up, you 
 necessarily have a vast quantity of fillets of fowl, 
 and as many legs. You must use them in preference 
 for a deep dish. Bone the thighs, season tvell in¬ 
 side, and sew them up so as to give them a good 
 shape. Next braize them as white as possible, and 
 sauce them with the nouilles. This dish is excel¬ 
 lent. For a family dinner, the day after company, 
 you may make a soup of it; instead of sauce put 
 broth, and let there be less nouilles. This dish has a 
 very bad appearance, but is very cheap, and 
 wholesome from the simplicity of materials. After 
 a great dinner, you must, of course, have some legs 
 of fowl remaining; (breast of fowl is not so good 
 in this way; see nouilles to make them.) 
 
 No. 19 .—Eggs a la Tripe. 
 
 Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, cut them into 
 thick round slices, and put them into the sauce, 
 
 e 3 
 
82 
 
 which follows. Cat three large white onions into 
 dice; fry them white in butter; when they are 
 nearly done, powder them well over with flour, and 
 moisten with some good milk, and a few spoonsful 
 of cream. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon to 
 prevent their burning. When the sauce is done, 
 grate a little nutmeg into it, and season it with a 
 little salt and pepper, &c. then throw the eggs in 
 and send up. Take care that the sauce is well 
 done before you add the eggs to it, and that you 
 do not break the eggs in it. 
 
 No. 20.— Eggs a la Crime en Surprise. 
 
 Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, and cut them 
 in two. Then take out the yolks, and rub them 
 through a hair sieve. Chop the whites very fine, 
 and make a sauce a ta creme , which is marked the 
 same as melted butter, except that you moisten it 
 with cream. When the sauce is well done, add to 
 it a lump of butter, throw the chopped whites into 
 the sauce, and season it well. Lastly, pour the 
 sauce and whites into the dish, and cover the whole 
 with the yolks, which you baste with a little butter, 
 and make them brown with a red hot shovel or 
 salamander. This dish is only served at the 
 tables of the rigid adherents to the Catholic 
 faith. It is not a great curiosity, but when you 
 have to serve a large dinner tout en maugre, it is 
 desirable to know sufficient dishes to fill out the 
 table. 
 
 No. 21 . — Hochepot of Ox's Tail. 
 
 Beef tail is very good eating, but in general it is 
 seldom sent up as an entree , although en hochepot 
 et en haricot (see Sauces) they may be served in 
 a deep dish. The beef tail is to be cut in the 
 joints, and left to disgorge in water. It must 
 
83 
 
 next be blanched. You then let it cool, and put 
 it between layers of bacon, to prevent its getting 
 black. Moisten and season it with carrots, onions, 
 &c. When done, drain it, and serve up with the 
 sauces above-mentioned. Observe, that this dish 
 must be well done, as the meat should detach itself 
 freely from the bones. Be particular in seasoning 
 this braize. You should have onions, and a bun¬ 
 dle seasoned. 
 
 No. 22 .—The same , en Haricot brun. 
 
 Braize as above, and cover with haricot brun. 
 (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 23.— The same , with Green Teas. 
 
 The same as above; mask with green peas, No. 
 7, page 76.* 
 
 * Tureens are out of fashion, but the dish must be served at 
 a family dinner, or in the steward’s room. Deep dishes are 
 very well adapted to these entries. 
 
84 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 REMOVES OF THE SOUPS AND FISH, 
 
 No. 1 .—Rump of Beef glazed. 
 
 The rump is undoubtedly the best part of the 
 beef, and particularly for French cookery; it is 
 necessary to select for this dish, that which is most 
 covered with fat; cut out the small fillet first; then 
 take out the bone, and tie it round of a good 
 shape; put it into the stock-pot in which you 
 make the broth. When done, drain it a quarter 
 of an hour before dinner-time, that you may trim 
 it well and glaze it several times. Dish it with 
 green parsley all round. It is necessary to observe, 
 that as the best eating part is that which is most 
 covered with fat, the cook must be particular in 
 trimming the fat, and leaving only what is neces¬ 
 sary to receive the glaze. The manner of cutting 
 the meat is a great advantage to the savour ; the 
 cook should mark the place with chopped parsley. 
 
85 
 
 as was the constant practice of the author, when he 
 had occasion to serve the rump of beef. 
 
 Several people braize the rump of beef, a prac¬ 
 tice of which the author does not approve, as it 
 gets too highly seasoned for people who have so 
 many other things to eat. The sauces and gar?ii- 
 tures that are served at the same time are suffi¬ 
 ciently seasoned, without the beef being so like¬ 
 wise. Besides, the first method is the most econo¬ 
 mical, as the braized rump furnishes too rich a 
 liquor to be used in delicate cookery. Moreover, 
 when boiled in the common way, the rump is more 
 wholesome, makes more broth, and therefore de¬ 
 serves the preference. However, not to disap¬ 
 point such as might like it, he will proceed to 
 treat of 
 
 No. 2 .—Ruvip of Beef braized. 
 
 Take a rump of beef well covered with fat: 
 bone it, tie it up with packthread. Then put 
 layers of bacon at the bottom of a braizing-pan ; 
 lay the rump of beef with its top part upwards on 
 the bacon : next cut into slices a large quantity of 
 veal, which serve to wrap up the beef; then cover 
 the whole with layers of bacon, put in some carrots, 
 onions, parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, 
 mace, cloves, spice, salt, and pepper. Moisten 
 Avith a little broth ; then close the braizing-pan as 
 hermetically as possible, and let the meat stew on a 
 slow fire for four hours; when done, reduce some 
 of the liquor, and glaze it with the same. Then 
 take some carrots that have been braized with the 
 beef, and trim them of a nice shape. They must 
 be served up glazed. Add likewise some glazed 
 onions, and braized lettuce, all which roots and 
 vegetables put round the rump in small heaps, 
 then send up with seme of the liquor that you have 
 
86 
 
 thickened with brown sauce; if you have no sauce, 
 put half a quarter of a pound of butter into a 
 small stew-pan, mix with it a tea-spoonful of flour, 
 moisten with some of the liquor; add a little gravy 
 to give it a good colour, and when well done, put 
 it over the rump. 
 
 No. 3 .—Breast of Beef a la Flamande. 
 
 Take that part of a breast of beef which con¬ 
 tains the gristle, and season it the same as the 
 rump. Let it boil gently for four hours, and then 
 drain the liquor through a silk sieve. Reduce it 
 to glaze , with which you must glaze the breast of 
 beef. Then garnish the dish with carrots, turnips 
 braized, and cabbage done separately, and 
 sauce with a very good Espagnole ; when you 
 have it put a little of the reduction of the braize. 
 This is an excellent dish when done with care. 
 This beef may be garnished sometimes with cucum- 
 hev farcee, sometimes with glazed Spanish onions, 
 and at others with artichoke bottoms, &c. In 
 France, they put peiits pates round it, a custom 
 the author does not approve of. 
 
 No. 4.— Sirloin of Beef roasted. 
 
 The principal observation and direction required 
 with regard to this article, is, that it is of all the 
 parts the most delicate; and when the piece is 
 very big, the fire must be more moderate, as it is 
 a long time before the middle can be warm. If 
 your fire is sharp, the meat will be burnt on the 
 outside, and quite raw in the middle. Another 
 necessary observation is, that when you put the 
 spit too low, the meat loses a great deal of the 
 heat, receiving it only from the top: to keep 
 down the colour, it is better to cover it with a few 
 sheets of white paper, and uncover it only when 
 
ST 
 
 tne fneat is nearly done. Take care, however, not 
 to cover the meat too hermetically, merely paper 
 the part that faces the fire, otherwise the beef will 
 not be roasted, but boiled. 
 
 No. 5 .—Leg of Mutton roasted.. 
 
 1 his joint is with reason the especial favourite 
 of an English epicure, and the dish that makes its 
 appearance ofterier than any other at his table. 
 Welsh mutton is in very great repute; but I have 
 frequently dressed Leicestershire, equal to any 
 mutton in the world. This joint does not admit 
 of being covered with paper. It must be cut in 
 the joint, that it maybe bent round when placed 
 on the spit. This operation makes the meat carve 
 better, as the sinews have been cut, they will not 
 shrink, and the gravy remains longer in the meat. 
 A leg of mutton shews its excellence when the 
 sinews are very small, and the back appears very 
 brown; it is never in that state till it has attained 
 three or four years of age, and it should have that 
 age to be in perfection. The leg should be roasted 
 by a pretty sharp fire to keep the gravy round it. 
 
 No. G .—Saddle of Mutton roasted. 
 
 This joint is likewise a great favourite, and pos¬ 
 sesses very delicate meat, particularly if carved in 
 the proper way ; the only objection is the great* 
 weight of the joint, and the disproportionate quan¬ 
 tity of meat that can be cut from it. You must 
 procure for this joint a proper skewer, give a little 
 nick with the chopper to separate the bone near 
 the tail, and put the skewer through ; then tie the 
 saddle on the spit, and roast it the same way as 
 the leg, before a sharp fire, otherwise it will not be 
 so tasty. 
 
88 
 
 To carve it well, you should make an incision 
 about three inches along the bone, cutting it 
 sideways as a cutlet; in this way the meat is 
 better. Those persons who dislike the fat, may 
 leave it on their plates. By this mode of carving, 
 you may serve twelve people instead of six. 
 
 No. 7 .—Braized Leg of Mutton , otherwise Gigoi 
 de Sept Heures. 
 
 Put the leg of mutton into a braizing-pan; trim 
 it with a little veal, a few carrots, onions, and 
 a bunch of parsley and green onions, properly 
 seasoned. Cover the whole with thin slices of 
 bacon, to prevent its being burnt. (Observe, if 
 the bacon has been cured with saltpetre, it will 
 turn the mutton red.) Let it stew for about four 
 hours; then strain the liquor through a silken 
 sieve; reduce it to glaze, and then glaze the leg 
 of mutton which you send up, with glazed onions 
 or white beans a la maitre d'hotel, or a la Lyon- 
 naise. 
 
 No. 8 .—Loin of Veal roasted. 
 
 Take a fine loin of veal, which cut quite square. 
 Introduce attelets , or skewers, in the flank which 
 you have rolled up. Then fix it on the spit, and 
 cover it with buttered paper. Take the paper off 
 about a quarter of an hour before you send the 
 * joint up, that it may be of a nice brown colour. 
 Gravy alone is requisite under the joint. 
 
 No. 9 .—Loin of Veal a la h6chamel. 
 
 When you have served a loin of veal, and very 
 little has been eaten of it, take off the fillet, cover 
 the whole with some buttered paper, and put it to 
 warm in the oven ; when well warmed, make a 
 blanquette with what you have taken out; replace 
 
89 
 
 it in the fillet, and serve up very hot. This is as 
 good as a new dish, and looks as well. Observe, 
 that these removes are to be served only with the 
 dessert, by which is meant, whatever is left in the 
 parlour; the following remove is of the same 
 kind. 
 
 No. 10.— Loin of Veal A la Creme. 
 
 The same as the first, No. 8. As soon as it is 
 done, take off the fillet and cut it in scollops, which 
 throw into the sauce A blanquette. (See Sauce a 
 blanquette.) Put this blanquette into the aper¬ 
 ture, and send up with the same sauce under it. 
 
 No. 11.— Calf's Head plain. 
 
 Take a nice calf’s head and bone it, that is to 
 say, take off the bones of the lower jaw, and of the 
 nose, which you cut off as close to the eyes as 
 possible. Ihen put all this into a large vessel 
 with warm water, to wash and disgorge off the 
 blood, or otherwise the head would look reddish. 
 Then blanch it thoroughly and let it cool. Now 
 make a blanc in the following manner : one pound 
 of beef suet, cut into dice, one pound of fat bacon, 
 also cut into dice, half a pound of butter, the juice 
 of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or two onions, a 
 bunch of parsley, seasoned with thyme, bay leaves, 
 cloves, mace, allspice, and water enough to cover 
 the calf’s head. When the blanc has boiled for 
 an hour, fold the head up in a clean towel, let it 
 boil in that blanc for about three hours. When 
 done, drain it. Take out the tongue, flay it, and 
 then replace it. A calf’s head must be served up 
 quite hot, with a sauce called au pauvre homme 9 
 namely, minced shalots, parsley ditto, vinegar, salt 
 and pepper, and the brains well minced. 
 
90 
 
 No. 12.— Calf’s Head , with Love-Apple Sauce. 
 
 The same as in No. 11; with this difference 
 only, that it is to be covered with love-apple sauce, 
 masked , with the sauce. 
 
 No. 13.— Calf's Head bigarree. 
 
 Take a nice calf’s head, which prepare as in 
 No. 11; drain it whilst hot, that you may be able 
 to give it a good shape; then divide it into two 
 parts, which squeeze hard between two dishes, 
 placing a heavy weight over, and let them cool. 
 When quite cold, dip one half into the yolks of 
 four eggs well beaten up with butter, and a little 
 salt and pepper, then into crumbs of bread. This 
 is to be repeated twice. Do the same with the 
 other half, only add plenty of chopped parsley to 
 the crumbs of bread, that it may be made quite 
 green. (Have some butter melted, and dipping a 
 paste-brush into the butter, shake it over the 
 crumbs of the bread, otherwise the bread will 
 burn in the oven; this method preserves the 
 colour. Do not forget a little salt and pepper in 
 the crumbs of bread.) Next put both halves of 
 the head into an oven till they are of a nice brown 
 colour, and serve up with either a sharp sauce, an 
 Italienne , or a love-apple sauce. When you have 
 no other sauce by you but a little glaze, make 
 some good melted butter, and put to it some 
 blanched and chopped parsley, some salt and 
 Cayenne pepper, and the brains chopped. Add a 
 small bit of glaze or portable soup, and you will 
 find this sauce as good as many others. 
 
 i 
 
 No. 14.— Calf’s Head du Pints certain. 
 
 Bone a calf’s head. Make a farce or force meat 
 with veal, fat bacon, and sweet'herbs, chopped fine 
 
91 
 
 and highly seasoned. Add to it two or three yolks 
 of eggs. When made, stuff the calf’s head with it, 
 and sew it up all round, to prevent the stuffing 
 from falling out, then wrap it up in a cloth, and 
 stew it a la braize; that is to say, put it into a 
 braizing-pan with an abundance of slices of veal 
 and layers of bacon, seasoned with carrots, a bunch 
 of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and spice; moisten 
 with a glass of white wine, and a ladle-full of broth. 
 Let it stew for four hours, and serve up with a 
 financier e. You must reduce a glass of Madeira 
 to put in the sauce, as it should be highly seasoned. 
 
 No. 15.— Calf's Head H la Chambord. 
 
 Dress it as indicated at No. 13. When finished 
 and drained, take pieces of pickled cucumbers and 
 truffles cut into the shape of nails, with which sym¬ 
 metrically stick the head ; then sauce it with a 
 financiered garnished larded sweetbreads, large 
 quenelles , pigeons & la gautier> and some craw-fish, 
 which you have trimmed, by picking the tail, and 
 cutting the point of the claws, and taking off the 
 smaller claws. 
 
 No. 16.— Farm-Yard Turkey a la Montmorenci. 
 
 Take a large fat farm-yard turkey ; truss it up 
 as if it were to b epoele ; dip the breast into boiling 
 hot water to make it firm, which will enable you 
 to lard it nicely; then braize it with a good fire 
 on the cover of the pan, that the bacon may get dry 
 and retain the glaze better when you glaze it. 
 Take care not to do it too much; drain it, and 
 serve up with a financi'ere of a fine light brown 
 colour and well seasoned. The turkey will be bet¬ 
 ter if you put it on the spit to be roasted, covered 
 with bacon and paper; it will not be equally white, 
 but it will have a finer flavour. 
 
92 
 
 No. 17.— Turkey and Celery Sauce. 
 
 Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon; 
 then boil it in plain water with a little salt, butter, 
 and lemon-juice. Drain it, and mask* it with 
 celery sauce. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 18.— Turkey & la Perigueux , with Truffles. 
 
 Take a nice fat turkey the moment it has been 
 killed ; empty it, and put plenty of salt inside of 
 the body, to draw the blood out. Then let it cool, 
 and prepare some truffles in the following manner : 
 take two or three pounds, peel them, and smell 
 whether they are all of a good flavour, and not 
 musked. Then pick out the smallest from 
 amongst them, and chop them very fine. Take 
 some fat white bacon, and rasp it so as to obtain 
 the fat only, without any of the sinews. When 
 you have thus rasped a sufficient quantity to fill 
 the body of the turkey, put the chopped truffles 
 into the mortar, pound them with the rasped bacon, 
 season well with salt, pepper, spices, &c. then mix 
 this with the large truffles, and put all in the turkey. 
 Let the turkey remain thus for two or three days, 
 to acquire the flavour of the truffles ; sew the bird 
 up as soon as you have finished it, and when you 
 want it roasted, put it on the spit covered with 
 bacon on the breast, and a few sheets of white 
 paper, and take great care when you open the 
 paper that you do not loosen the truffles. Serve 
 up with a clear Espagnole.-\ 
 
 * Mask, means to cover it with the sauce, 
 t This dish is one of the best possible, if it is well seasoned 
 and roasted. It is necessary to observe, that the carver must 
 serve the inside with the fillet, as that is one of the best parts 
 of the dish. 
 
S3 
 
 No. 19.— Fowls d la Conde. 
 
 Take a couple of fine white fowls* empty them, 
 take off the bone of the breast, and the sinews of 
 the legs, then truss them, and put a little butter 
 into the body, seasoned with lemon-juice and salt, 
 which will make the fowls look better and whiter. 
 Next mark them in a stew-pan trimmed with layers 
 of bacon, cover them well, and pour over them a poele, 
 which is made in the following manner: take a 
 pound of veal, a pound of fat bacon, and a little fat 
 of ham, all cut into dice. Fry the whole white in 
 half a pound of butter. Moisten with boiling 
 water; season with a bunch of parsley, salt, and 
 pepper, a little thyme, half a bay-leaf, and a clove, 
 and when sufficiently stewed, strain it through a 
 hair-sieve over the fowls, which stew for three quar¬ 
 ters of an hour over a slow fire, keeping the fire, 
 however, brisk on the cover of the stew-pan. When 
 done, drain and dish them with a tongue d I'ecarlale 
 in the middle, and the sauce d la Jinanciere 
 under it. 
 
 No. 20.— Fowls a la Montmorenci 
 
 Are prepared the same as fowls d la Conde , with 
 this single exception, that the breast is to be larded 
 and glazed of a fine colour: garnish with larded 
 sweet-breads, quenelles d la cuillure, &c. and a 
 ragout d VAllemande for sauce.* 
 
 No. 21. — Capons d la Turque. 
 
 Take two white capons, empty and put them 
 into warm water that they may disgorge the blood, 
 
 * Observe, that the difference of ragouts is in their colour 
 only; financiere is brown ; Allcmande, or Royal ,or Toulouse 
 are white. In general, you must put white sauce with o! azfc( j 
 entree, and brown with white. b 
 
94 
 
 which would otherwise raise a great deal of scum. 
 Have ready some rice which has boiled till soft in 
 rich consomme , put this rice well seasoned into the 
 body of the capons; then truss them, cover them 
 with layers of bacon, wrap them up in paper, and 
 spit them. They should be an hour roasting. 
 When done, dish them with a garnish of soft rice, 
 and a veloute for sauce. 
 
 No. 22.— Westphalia Ham a FEssence. 
 
 Take a small Westphalia ham, and trim it well. 
 Be particular in sawing off the knuckle, in order 
 not to break the bone into splinters. Keep it one 
 day in water, to take out the brine, and boil it in 
 plain water for four hours. When done, drain it, 
 take off the rind, and give it a nice round form. 
 Then put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry 
 the fat, which otherwise could not be glazed pro¬ 
 perly. When quite dried, glaze it of a fine colour, 
 and serve under it an essence. (See Sauces.) 
 
 Receipt to make a Ham better than those of West¬ 
 phalia. 
 
 As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, 
 take the two hams, and cut out the round bone, so 
 as to have the ham not too thick: rub them well 
 with common salt, and leave them in a large pan 
 for three days; when the salt has drawn out all the 
 blood, throw the brine away and proceed as fol¬ 
 lows : for two hams of about eighteen pounds each, 
 take one pound of moist sugar, one pound of com¬ 
 mon salt, and two ounces of saltpetre, mix them 
 together, and rub the hams well with it, then put 
 them into a vessel large enough to contain them in 
 the liquor, always keeping the salt over them ; after 
 
95 
 
 they have been in this state three days, throw over 
 them a bottle of good vinegar. One month is 
 requisite for the cure of them ; during that period 
 they must be often turned in the brine; when you 
 take them out, drain them well, powder them with 
 some coarse flour, and hang them in a dry place. 
 The same brine can serve again, observing that you 
 must not put so much salt on the next hams that 
 you pickle. If the hams are smaller, put only 
 three quarters of a pound of salt, but the salt will 
 not do any harm if you do not let them remain too 
 long in the brine; if you can get them smoked, 
 they are then not so subject to be infected by ver¬ 
 min ; no insect whatever can bear the bitterness of 
 the soot; the smoke of lierre or wood is preferable 
 to the smoke of coal. Be particular that the hams 
 are hung as far as possible from the fire, otherwise 
 the fat will melt, and they will become dry and 
 hard. 
 
 No. 23 .—Ham with Madeira. 
 
 Take in preference a Westmorland ham, which 
 prepare in the same manner as directed above: but 
 it need not be left so long in water, as it is not 
 so briny as the Westphalia hams are. Blanch it 
 in water only during two hours. Then drain it, and 
 put it into a braizing-pan, trimmed with thin 
 slices of veal at the bottom, seasoned with carrots, 
 onions, parsley, bay-leaves, spices, &c. Pour over 
 these two glasses of rich consuvime and a bottle of 
 Madeira, let it boil for about a couple of hours. 
 When done, pour some of the liquor, after having 
 skimmed off the fat, to reduce to an Espagnole , 
 which is the proper sauce. 
 
 N.B .—When the ham has boiled for two hours 
 in the water, you must trim it instantly, before you 
 put it with the wine, that you may send it up the 
 
96 
 
 moment you take it out of the braize. Reduce the 
 liquor to make the glaze for it. 
 
 No. 24 .—Ham with Windsor Beans. 
 
 Roil the ham as in No. 22, glaze it in the same 
 manner, and serve under it Windsor beans, dressed 
 as follows : 
 
 Take some very small Windsor beans, boil them 
 in water with a little salt; when boiled enough, 
 take a little veloute , into which throw a half quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter, a little chopped parsley 
 and winter savory, toss the beans in that sauce after 
 having drained them, and dish the ham over the 
 beans. 
 
 No. 25 .—A Roast Beef of Lamb.* 
 
 Take the saddle and the two legs of a lamb, cut 
 on the middle of each leg a small rosette , which is 
 to be larded, as also the fillets. Roast the whole, 
 and glaze the larded parts of a good colour. In 
 Fi’ance it is served up with maitre cThotel , but in 
 England with gravy under it, and mint sauce in a 
 boat. 
 
 No. 26 .—Saddle of Mutton , or Roast Beef de 
 
 Mouton. 
 
 The same preparation as above. This is sent up 
 in particular cases only ; when large dishes are 
 
 * The appellation of “ roast beef of lamb," must sound 
 very extraordinary to an English ear, but the singularity of 
 the name is as nothing, when compared with the importance 
 and necessity of the dish. At a very great dinner, it is essen¬ 
 tial to have some dish of magnitude. This has a very good 
 appearance, and is truly excellent. I beg to recommend the 
 trial of a maitre d'hotel under, as the butter, parsley, salt, pep¬ 
 per, and lemon-juice, agree well with the gravy of the meat ; 
 those who make the experiment will assuredly approve of it. 
 
97 
 
 wanted to cover a table of extraordinary mag¬ 
 nitude, or to display the magnificence of the host. 
 
 No. 27.— Saddle of Fawn , or Chevreuil. 
 
 The same as No. 26. When larded, put it into 
 a very large vessel with salt, pepper, and onions cut 
 into slices, parsley, vinegar, spices, &c. Leave it to 
 pickle for two or three days, taking great care to 
 turn it frequently on every side. Then roast it, and 
 serve with a poivrade under it. Mind that the 
 fillets and both legs must be larded. 
 
 No. 28.— The Haunch of Venison.* 
 
 It was customary in France to cut off a small 
 roselte from the leg, lard it, and then pickle it. In 
 England it is customary to put it on the spit, then 
 make some paste with flour and water only, and 
 case the venison with it, securing it with a few 
 sheets of paper. It cannot be done thoroughly in 
 less than four hours. It is usually served up with 
 red currant jelly made hot with a little port wine. 
 The women cooks, in this country, put flour over 
 the roast just before they remove it from the spit, 
 a custom which is utterly absurd, and cannot be 
 sufficiently reprobated. I approve of the practice 
 of flouring roasted meat, if it be done early enough 
 to imbibe the gravy, and get nicely browned, when 
 it becomes very tasty. In the other case, the froth 
 of the flour and hutter adhere to the palate, and 
 have a most abominable taste. 
 
 No. 29.— The Neck of Venison 
 
 Is also to be roasted; but as it is not by far so 
 
 * The great point in roasting venison is to keep as much as 
 possible the fat from melting- the paste put over it, is to pre¬ 
 vent the heat of the fire from wasting it. 
 
 F 
 
9S 
 
 thick as the haunch, the paste may be less thick, if 
 you take great care to stop the spit in the under 
 side of the neck. 
 
 No. 30.— Leg of Pork. 
 
 Take the leg of a porket, rub it over with salt, 
 and put it well covered with salt also in a vessel, 
 wherein it must be left for ten days. Then boil it 
 in water, and send it up with green cabbage all 
 round, and a peas pudding, which must be made as 
 follows: 
 
 Take a quart of dry peas, wash them clean, 
 wrap them up in a clean towel, and throw them 
 into the same vessel as the leg. When the peas are 
 done, strain them through a sieve, put in a good 
 lump of butter, some salt, two yolks of eggs, and 
 poach the pudding wrapped up in a clean towel, to 
 make the pudding of a good substance. 
 
 No. 31.— Fowls a la Mirepoix. 
 
 Take a couple of white fowls, which empty and 
 truss with the legs bent down. Then make a 
 mirepoix in the following manner : take a few slices 
 of ham, some rasped bacon, butter, salt, bay- 
 leaves, parsley, and lemon-juice; let the whole fry 
 white on a very slow fire. When the rasped bacon 
 and butter are well mixed together, put the fowls 
 into an oval stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, 
 which moisten with the mirepoix and a spoonful of 
 broth, to prevent their frying. They must stew 
 for an hour* on a very slow fire ; then drain them 
 well, and serve up an Espagnole , or a ravigotte. 
 
 N.B. —All voluminous entrees may be served as 
 
 * You must, however, proportion the time to the size of (he 
 fowl. A smail one will of course require less time, as a very 
 large one would demand more. 
 
99 
 
 a relev e (remove) ; as for instance, a large noix of 
 a eal (i lei bourgeoise, a large caree of veal garnished 
 with vegetables, and, in short, whatever is of too 
 great a magnitude for an entree. 
 
 No. Boiled Turkey with Oyster Sauce. 
 
 t This is to be boiled in the same manner as in 
 No. 18. (See Oyster Sauce, No. 96*, page 47.) 
 
 Fish sent up ’with the Soups ; or as a Remove of 
 
 the Soup. 
 
 No. 1.— Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Choose a very white and fine skinned turbot; 
 three quarters of an hour before dinner, or an hour 
 if the turbot is very large, put it into boiling water 
 and salt, with lemon slices over it; start it very 
 quick, when it begins to boil draw the pan on the 
 side of the fire. If the turbot boils too fast, it will 
 be woolly ; when you have ascertained with your 
 knife that it is quite done, serve with green parsley 
 on the broken places; and put round the dish 
 some horse-radish scraped fine; serve the lobster 
 sauce separately in a boat. Observe that you must 
 make an aperture on the back of the turbot ; it will 
 by that means be sooner done. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Take a hen lobster, cut the flesh into small dice, 
 keep the eggs, which pound with a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, and strain through a hair 
 sieve. You then make some melted butter; let it 
 be rather tjpick ; mix the eggs of the lobster with 
 it, and throw into it a little essence of anchovies, a 
 
100 
 
 small quantity of cavice, * and a little cream. 
 Take care that the sacue does not boil, for it would 
 curdle, and lose its colour. 
 
 No. 2.— Broiled Turbot. 
 
 Marinade the turbot in sweet oil, salt, pepper, 
 See. and broil it on a slow fire: but it cannot be 
 sufficiently done in this way in less than an hour. 
 You must accordingly put it on a slow fire in due 
 time. Then, when you serve, cover it with caper- 
 sauce, which is to be made as follows : make some 
 melted butter with a little glaze in it; when melted 
 throw in some essence of anchovies, a few capers, and 
 a drop of vinegar. Then give a good seasoning, 
 and mask , that is, pour the sauce over the fish. 
 
 No. 3.— Boiled Salmon with Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Put the salmon into boiling water, the same as 
 the turbot, with salt only. Serve up with lobster 
 sauce, and never use vinegar with salmon, as it 
 spoils the taste and colour of the fish. 
 
 No. 4.— Slices of Salmon broiled with Caper 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Marinade your slices of salmon ip oil and salt, 
 broil them on a slow fire, and cover them with 
 caper sauce. 
 
 No. 5.— Crimped Salmon. 
 
 The Thames salmon is undoubtedly the best, 
 but its price is so high as to render it unattainable 
 by any but the rich ; the author has occasionally 
 bought it at sixteen shillings per pound, which 
 brings the price of one dish only to more than four 
 
 * Mackay, in Piccadilly, sells the best, thaWis to say, the 
 only genuine caviee. 
 
101 
 
 pounds; it requires to be boiled quickly in salt and 
 water. Serve up with lobster sauce. Fifteen 
 minutes is sufficient to boil it. If you leave it too 
 long in the water, it loses all its taste and colour. 
 
 No. 6.— Salmon with Genevoise Sauce. 
 
 Take a few shalots, some roots of parsley, a 
 bunch ditto, seasoned with spices, thyme, bay- 
 leaves, and a few carrots. Let the whole be lightly 
 fried in a little butter. Then moisten with white 
 wine (Madeira in preference). Let it boil for 
 three-quarters of an hour. When the marinade 
 is done, drain it through a tammy over the fish, 
 which stew in that seasoning. As soon as the fish 
 is sufficiently stewed, drain it, pick off all the scales, 
 and return it into the vessel where it has already 
 boiled, with some of the liquor to keep it hot, and 
 mind to cover it, to prevent it from drying. Now 
 reduce some of the marinade with good Es- 
 pagnole , skim off all the fat, throw in a good piece 
 of fresh butter, well kneaded with flour, a little 
 essence of anchovies, the juice of a lemon, some 
 Cayenne pepper, and a iittle salt. When you 
 have drained the fish, dish it and cover it with the 
 sauce, and send some likewise separately in a sauce¬ 
 boat. 
 
 N. 13.—Salmon is also served au court bouiVon. 
 (See No. 27, page 108.) 
 
 No. 7.— Cod with Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Boil the fish in boiling water and plenty of salt; 
 mind that if the fish is very large, you must not 
 boil it too fast, as it then becomes woolly ; be care¬ 
 ful before sending up, to ascertain with your knife 
 whether it is well done. Serve with oyster sauce, 
 as described No. 96, page 47. Observe, all white 
 fish should be boiled in hard water, pump water 
 
102 
 
 will make the fish white and firm, while soft water 
 will spoil it. 
 
 No. 8.— Slices of Crimp Cod. 
 
 Boil the slices in the same manner as the fish 
 when whole, and send them up with the same 
 sauce ; mind that ten or fifteen minutes are suf¬ 
 ficient to boil them. 
 
 If you are obliged to wait after the fish is done, 
 do not leave it in the water, but take it out and 
 leave it over the boiled water, cover it with a clean 
 cloth ; and when you are to serve, dip it again into 
 the hot water, by this method you preserve its 
 flavour, and are able to serve it hot. 
 
 No. 9.— Crimp Cod with Cream Sauce. 
 
 The same as above. The sauce d la Creme is 
 made in the following manner: take a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, a little flour, some cream and a 
 little salt, mix them together, and turn them on the 
 fire, but do not let the sauce boil. Then cover the 
 fish with it. 
 
 N. B. —It is not served up so in England. 
 
 No. 10.—• The John Dorey , with Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Boil it in the same manner as you do turbot. 
 (See No. 1.) Send it up with lobster sauce. (See 
 Lobster Sauce , No. 1, page 99.) 
 
 No. 11.— Ditto , broiled with Anchovy and Caper 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Marinade in oil, and broil it in the same manner 
 as you do turbot. The same sauce also, with 
 capers; and, it should be observed, that but little 
 oil is required, as it is only necessary to prevent the 
 fish drying and adhering to the gridiron. 
 
103 
 
 No. 12 .—Soles fried or boiled.* 
 
 Boil the soles in boiling water with a little salt 
 and vinegar. Fried soles are to be covered with 
 crumbs of bread, which is done in the following 
 manner: break two eggs, which beat with a little 
 salt: dip the soles into this omelette first, then into 
 crumbs of bread. Fry the fish till it is of a fine 
 colour. Shrimp sauce is made as follows: make 
 some melted butter, with which mix a little essence 
 of anchovies; throw in the shrimps, some cavice, 
 and send up in a sauce-boat. 
 
 No. 13 .—Broiled Soles. 
 
 Dip them into beaten eggs and crumbs of bread 
 as above, but twice, using melted butter the second 
 time. Broil them till they are of a light brown, 
 and send up with shrimp sauce. 
 
 No. 14.— Fried Whitings. 
 
 Take very fresh whitings, empty them well, and 
 flay them. Then fasten the tail in the mouth with 
 a small skewer, and dip the fish into an omelette , 
 the same as the soles, then into crumbs of bread, 
 and fry them till they are of a light brown. (See 
 Shrimp Sauce , No. 12, above.) 
 
 * Observations on Fish in general .—It is necessary to have 
 the fish well purged of all the blood, as the least redness left in 
 it is very prejudicial. When the soles or whitings are large, it 
 is natural to conceive that they will be longer frying or boiling 
 than when small. Pay proper attention to the following ob¬ 
 servation : fish not well done is uneatable ; and served up in 
 that state, it would prejudice the company against the rest of 
 your dinner. By this want of attention, you lose all chance of 
 pleasing your employer. 
 
104 
 
 No. 15 .—Fried Whitings, French fashion. 
 
 Let the whitings he very fresh, and of an equal 
 size: empty and scrape them well all over ; then 
 wash them in different waters. When quite clean, 
 slit them equally on the back, and dip them into 
 flour only. Next fry them in very hot oil, and 
 over a large fire, otherwise when you put them in, 
 they might cool the dripping. When of a light 
 brown, send them up with shrimp sauce in a sauce¬ 
 boat. I have directed oil to be used in frying 
 those fishes, as the Catholics do not use animal 
 food, and are fond of what we term greasy fritter, 
 on maigre days, oil is the best fritter therefore that 
 can be adopted. 
 
 No. 16 .—Boiled Whitings. 
 
 The author deems it useless to explain what is 
 generally known, about boiling whitings, or fish of 
 any other sort; and will, therefore, content himself 
 with mentioning a particular or two which mio-ht 
 have escaped the memory of some of his brethren, 
 who are desirous of displaying variety. When you 
 want to boil the whitings, it is better not to open 
 the belly, as they have a better appearance on the 
 table. Mind to keep the skins whole, otherwise 
 they will look very bad. 
 
 No. 17 .—Boiled Mackarel. 
 
 Boil the mackarel as you would any other fish, 
 and make a fennel sauce. The fennel is to be 
 boiled in boiling water with salt; then it is to be 
 chopped very fine, and thrown into melted butter ; 
 and serve up. Mind if you boil the mackarel too 
 much, they lose both skin and flavour, and have a 
 wretched appearance on table. 
 
105 
 
 N.B. —It is necessary to observe, that in England 
 it is the custom to send up this fish with the fennel 
 sauce, and garnished with fennel round. 
 
 No. 18.— Broiled Mackarel. 
 
 Pick out in preference mackarel, with soft roes, 
 which are the most delicate. Gut them, open them 
 at the back and marinade them in oil,* salt, and 
 pepper. Next broil them, but unless they are 
 done enough they are never good. The maitre 
 d'hotel sauce is to be made separately, and served in 
 a boat. Those who wish to have the mackarel 
 dressed in the French fashion, must have some 
 parsley chopped very fine, mix it with some fresh 
 butter, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, put this into 
 the aperture of the mackarefs back, when well 
 broiled ; and serve as hot as possible on a hot dish. 
 
 The fillets of mackarel are to be cut from the 
 bone, and trimmed of a good shape ; put them into 
 a saute pan with some clarified butter and a little 
 salt over them till dinner time, then put them to do 
 into the oven, or on the stove; drain them upon a 
 clean sheet of paper; dress them on the dish, and 
 cover them with the maitre d'hotel sauce. 
 
 N.B.— All other methods of dressing fish, will 
 be found in the chapter of entrees. 
 
 No. 19.— Boiled Haddocks. 
 
 They are boiled in the same manner as soles, 
 and served up with shrimp sauce. You may use 
 haddocks for quenelles , or Jilets, as well as whitings. 
 
 No. 20.— Shale with Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 Skate must be boiled in water with a little salt 
 and vinegar. The sauce is sent up separately in a 
 
 * The oil is to prevent 
 the gridiron. 
 
 the fish from drying, and sticking to 
 F 2 
 
106 
 
 boat. Skate may be served up also with caper 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 21 .—Boiled Pike with Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Empty and scale the pike, wash it well after it 
 has stood for an hour in cold water, to disgorge all 
 the blood; then boil it like any other fish, and 
 serve up with a Dutch sauce. 
 
 No. 22 .—Baked Pike. 
 
 Scale and empty the pike, without injuring the 
 skin of the belly, into which introduce a farce , 
 which would drop out if not well secured. This 
 farce is made of two handsful of crumbs of bread, 
 one handful of chopped beef-suet, parsley ditto, 
 salt, pepper, and spices, two whole eggs, and a 
 little fresh butter. Mix the whole together, and 
 pound it in a mortar : then stuff the pike with it, 
 and turn the pike with its tail fastened in its mouth 
 by means of a skewer; next dip it, first into an 
 omelette, and then into crumbs of bread, and ao-ain 
 into ci umbs of bread; then baste it over with 
 buttei, befoie you put it into the oven. If you are 
 to send up two, one of them is to be made of a 
 green colour, by means of a quantity of chopped 
 parsley being mixed with the crumbs of bread. 
 Mind the oven must be well heated. When the 
 pikes aie of a fine brown, cover them with paper, 
 and let them be well done through. Serve up 
 with a Dutch sauce. (No. 70, page 37.) 
 
 No. 23 .—Pike a la Genevoisc. 
 
 Scale and wash the pike, and stew it in the same 
 manner as the salmon, No. 6, page 101. 
 
 No. 24 .—Pike a la Polonoise. 
 
 Wash the pike clean as above, then cut it into 
 slices as if you wanted to make a matelotte ; then 
 
107 
 
 fry in a quarter of a pound of butter the following 
 herbs : a few carrots cut into dice, a few roots of 
 parsley, a bunch of parsley and green onions, 
 seasoned with mace, cloves, thyme, and bay-leaves, 
 and a little ham. When fried, moisten the whole 
 with a sufficient quantity of boiling water, and let 
 it boil for one hour. When the marinade is well 
 stewed, drain it through a silk sieve over the slices 
 of pike, and let them stew, but not too long, for 
 they would break. When the fish is done enough, 
 take the liquor in which it has boiled, to moisten a 
 becliamelle maigre , which you make in the following 
 manner: take a few bits of ham, some mushrooms, 
 a bunch of parsley, and green onions, a small white 
 onion, which fry white in butter, then put to it a 
 large handful of flour, let it fry a little, and moisten 
 with the liquor in which the pike has been boiling. 
 Stir this with a wooden spoon : let it boil till the 
 flour is well done, throw in a pint of thick cream, 
 that has already been boiled, and reduce the whole 
 till the sauce is thick enough to cover the fish. 
 Next take some turnips, cut into dice, stew them 
 in a little broth and sugar ; drain them and throw 
 them into the sauce, after the latter heave been 
 drained through a tammy. Drain the pike also, 
 and cover it with the sauce, and the turnips. 
 
 AJ.B . — This sauce requires a little sugar, on 
 account of the turnips. Mind the sauce is well 
 seasoned. 
 
 No. 25 .—Fike d la Ckambord. 
 
 Scale the pike, and let it disgorge in water for an 
 hour or two. Then lard it in different places on 
 one side of the back, and bake it in a marinade an 
 vin, as you would do in the marinade d la Gene- 
 voise. That part which has been larded must 
 stand uppermost, to prevent the part which is not 
 
108 
 
 larded from getting dry, cover this with layers of 
 bacon, and be particular in basting frequently with 
 the seasoning. When the fish is done, glaze the 
 parts that have been larded, and mask the others 
 with a ragout a la Chambord. Observe that the 
 quenelles must be made of fish. The garnish is 
 generally composed of large quenelles , small pigeons 
 (squab pigeons,) larded sweetbread of lamb, &c. 
 Take a little of the marinade , skim off the fat, re¬ 
 duce it nearly to glaze, and mix it with the Cham* 
 bord, which is no other thing than a financiere 
 with the addition of a little essence of anchovies, 
 the juice of a lemon, and a little Cayenne. 
 
 No. 26.— Pike au Court Bouillon. 
 
 Take a large pike, which empty, without scaling 
 it. Then wash it clean, and drain it. Next boil 
 some vinegar, and when boiling, pour it over the 
 scales of the pike, which will turn blue, and the 
 scales will curl up if the vinegar is hot enough. 
 Wrap the pike up in a towel, and let it boil in the 
 cour bouillon , which is prepared as follows: * 
 
 fNo. 27.) 
 
 No. 27.— Cour Bouillon for Fish au bleu. 
 
 Take tw o of each of the following roots : carrots, 
 onions, roots of parsley, leaves of ditto, thyme, bay- 
 leaves, mace, cloves, spices, which fry in butter 
 without their getting too much colour. Then pour 
 into it two bottles of w'hite and a bottle of red wine 
 with salt, &c. This marinade being stewed pro¬ 
 perly, will serve several times for stewing the fish, 
 
 * If you happen to be in the country, where pike is plenti¬ 
 ful, you may make fillets of them, for they are as good as any 
 other fish for that. They must be dressed in the same way as 
 fillets of soles or whitings, & la maitre d'hotel, or raviyotte, 
 or u la orlies. 
 
109 
 
 but remember each time you use it, it requires a 
 little water ; besides, it would become too strong 
 in the course of time. Take some of that liquor 
 to make the sauce matelotte, Genevoise , &c. 
 
 This manner of boiling the fish is too expensive 
 in England, where wine is so dear; but a very good 
 cour bouillon cannot be made with vinegar. Be¬ 
 sides. fish ciu cour bouillon is always eaten with oil 
 and vinegar, which is not customary in England. 
 
 No. 28.— Trout it la Genevoise. 
 
 This fish is the most delicate that can be pre¬ 
 pared ci la Genevoise. The marinade to be made 
 the same as in No. 6, for salmon, page 101; or 
 above, No. 27. 
 
 No. 29. — Roast Sturgeon. 
 
 Spit the sturgeon: make a marinade with white 
 wine, with which baste the sturgeon. Next take 
 some of the marinade that you reduce with four 
 large spoonsful of good Espagnole sauce. When 
 the sauce is of a good consistency, put in it about 
 half a pound of fresh butter kneaded with a little 
 flour, salt, and Cayenne pepper, the juice of a 
 lemon, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If 
 you have no Espagnole, make a little roux, with 
 flour and butter, and moisten with the marinade ; 
 add to it a little glaze, and proceed as above. 
 
 No. 30.— Baleed Sturgeon. 
 
 Make a marinade the same as above, and bake 
 the fish with that marinade. The sauce as above. 
 
 No. 31.— Sturgeon plain boiled. 
 
 Boil the sturgeon as you would any other fish. 
 Send up with Dutch sauce; mind that the fish is 
 very firm, and requires more time to boil. 
 
no 
 
 No. 32.— Carp au bleu , without Sauce. 
 
 Take a fine carp, which empty without injuring 
 the belly. Take oft' the gills, and after you have 
 washed it clean, pour over it some boiled vinegar, 
 by which means the scales will curl up, and the 
 fish get a blue colour. Then wrap the carp up in 
 a towel, and stew it in the cour bouillon. (See 
 No. 27, page 108.) 
 
 No. 33.— Carp farci , baked. 
 
 Take a fine carp, scale and empty it. Then 
 detach one side of the fillets, without injuring the 
 head. Take this flesh, and that of another carp 
 of a smaller size, and make a farce in the follow¬ 
 ing manner: take the crumb of two penny loaves 
 soak, it in cream or milk, then squeeze it, and put 
 it into a mortar, with an equal quantity of the 
 flesh of the carp, nearly as much fresh butter, with 
 a little chopped parsley, a few mushrooms fried in 
 a little butter, salt, pepper, and spice. When all 
 these ingredients have been pounded in a mortar, 
 add a couple of eggs, and continue pounding for a 
 long time, then take a little, which throw into boil¬ 
 ing water, and taste. If it be too delicate , which 
 means too thin, add one egg more, pound it again, 
 and then rub it through the sieve d quenelles; and 
 fill up the cavities in the fillets of the carp, giving 
 it the primitive shape of the carp. Take care how¬ 
 ever to give it a good shape. Next let it be done 
 thoroughly in the oven, and serve it with caper 
 sauce under it. This method is frequently adopted 
 by Roman Catholics. 
 
 No. 34. — Carp, Sauce d Matelotte. 
 
 Take a fine carp, scale and empty it. Then 
 let it stew in wine enough to cover it. After hav- 
 
Ill 
 
 mg drained it well, take that wine to make the 
 sauces, and send it up, covered with sauce a mate- 
 lotte. (See Sauces.') 
 
 No. 35 .—Broiled Carp , with Caper Sauce. 
 
 Scale and empty the carp. Wash it, and wipe 
 it quite dry. Then marinade it in oil, salt, and 
 pepper; broil it, and send it up with caper sauce as 
 follows: 
 
 No. 3 3.—Caper Sauce for Fish. 
 
 Take some melted butter, into which throw a 
 small bit of glaze, and when the sauce is in a state 
 of readiness, throw into it some choice capers, 
 salt and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of an- 
 clicvies. 
 
 No. 37.— Tench. 
 
 Tench, in England, are eaten boiled, with a 
 Dutch sauce, yet they are far better en matelotte. 
 
 No. 38.— Perch. 
 
 These likewise are sent up boiled, with Dutch 
 sauce; but you will find a different way to dress 
 them in the following entree. 
 
 O 
 
 # 
 
 No. 39 .—Perch au Water-Suchet. 
 
 Scale and clean the perch as much as possible; 
 put them to boil with some parsley tied up in a 
 bundle, and some salt, in a quantity of water suffi¬ 
 cient to boil the perch; then have some parsley 
 roots cut in small fillets about one inch in length, 
 and boil them in a little water. When the roots 
 are done, put them with the perch; ten minutes 
 
112 
 
 are sufficient. Have some parsley leaves blanched 
 very green in salt and water, drain the perch from 
 all the liquid, and put it into a tureen ; put the 
 roots and parsley leaves to it, and throw the liquor 
 over it through a silk sieve. Send up slices of 
 bread and butter in a separate plate. 
 
113 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 FARCES, OR FORCED MEAT. 
 
 No L .—Quenelles of Veal 
 
 Take the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, 
 and scrape it with the knife till you have got oft* 
 all the meat without the sinews. About half a 
 pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for an 
 entree. Boil either in your stock-pot, or in plain 
 water, a calf’s udder. When it is done and cold, 
 trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces, 
 and pound it in a mortar till it can be rubbed 
 through a sieve. All that part which has been 
 thus strained through the sieve, you make into a 
 ball, of the same size as the meat, which you have 
 also rolled into a ball; you then make a panade in 
 the following manner: you must have three balls, 
 one of udder, one of meat, and one of panada. 
 
 Panadas for Farces in general. 
 
 Soak in milk the crumbs of two penny rolls for 
 about half an hour, then take them out, and 
 squeeze them to draw out all the milk : put the 
 
114 
 
 crumbs into a stew-pan with a little lechamelle , a 
 spoonful of consomme , and proceed as follows: 
 put in a separate small stew-pan a little butter, a 
 small bit of ham, some parsley, a few small chalots, 
 one bay-leaf, then one clove, a few leaves of mace, 
 and some mushrooms; fry them gently over a slow 
 fire. When done, moisten with a spoonful of 
 broth. Let it boil for twenty minutes, and drain 
 the broth over the panada through a sieve; then 
 reduce the panada on the fire; mind to keep con¬ 
 stantly stirring, and when quite dry, put in a small 
 piece of butter and let it dry farther ; then add the 
 yolks of two eggs, and put the panada to cool on a 
 clean plate, to use when wanted. Observe, the pa¬ 
 nada is wanted for all sorts of farces or false meats, 
 you should be careful to give a good flavour to the 
 panada as the farce receives no taste from any 
 thing else. Quenelles are one of the articles which 
 try the skill of a good cook, particularly those of 
 game or fish. This dish is valuable to the poor 
 as well as the rich, and the easiest of digestion 
 imaginable, if rightly prepared. A medical man, 
 familiar with light dishes of food, would certainly 
 recommend this to his patient. 
 
 When the panada is cold, roll it into balls, the 
 same as the two other articles, but let the balls 
 be all of a size. Pound the whole in a mortar 
 as long as possible, for the more quenelles are 
 pounded, the more delicate they are. Then break 
 two eggs, whites and yolks together, which you 
 pound likewise; now season with pepper, salt, 
 and spices in powder; when the whole is well 
 mixed together, try a small bit, which you roll 
 with a little flour; then poach it in boiling water 
 with a little salt. If it should not be firm enough, 
 put another egg without beating the white, which 
 only makes the quenelles puff, and hollow inside. 
 
115 
 
 When you have made the farce , rub it through a 
 sieve. If you are in a hurry, you may use only 
 crumb of bread soaked in milk without panada, 
 but the panada is most tasty. 
 
 Many persons who use the same ingredients as the 
 author, but not in the same way, will perhaps feel 
 inclined to censure his method; yet such as will 
 adhere to it, will derive great benefit from it; the 
 materials are to be well pounded and seasoned. 
 
 No. 2. —Quenelles of Fowl. 
 
 The quenelles of fowl are made with the fillets 
 only, all other parts being too full of sinews. 
 Take the fillets of young chickens, for you must 
 never use those of an old fowl, as they are tough 
 and thready. Veal when very white is much 
 better than tough fowl. Cut this meat into dice 
 and pound it in a mortar, till it can be rubbed 
 through a sieve. Next make three balls, as you 
 have done for the quenelles of veal. Then pound 
 season, and try them in the same manner as di¬ 
 rected above, as they must be made firm or soft, 
 according to the use they are intended for. Que¬ 
 nelle au consomme clarifie , for instance, must be 
 very delicate and soft. If they are to be served 
 in a ragout , either white or brown, they must 
 be made firmer, and so on. The farce a quenelles 
 is much used in cookery. With it alone you 
 may make various good entrees; and it serves 
 besides to garnish ragouts , matelottes , godards , 
 chambords, pates , chauds , &c. &c. Observe par¬ 
 ticularly, that Avhen you use the quenelles very 
 small, the farce may be very delicate, but if you 
 make any boudin, or turban , or any other dif¬ 
 ferent kind of entree , in proportion to the size of 
 it you must keep the quenelles firm, which de¬ 
 pends solely on their having more eggs; this ad- 
 
116 * 
 
 dition makes the farce softer when raw, but in¬ 
 creases its firmness when poached. 
 
 Tlie author cannot sufficiently enlarge on the 
 subject, of farces, as they are of such general 
 utility in large dinners, as well as extremely econo¬ 
 mical. It is useless to remind the practitioner of 
 the necessity of using economy—the best cookery, 
 where you omit salt and pepper, goes for nothing. 
 
 No. 3.— Quenelles of Rabbits. 
 
 The best quenelles are made with fillets only. 
 If you are engaged by a nobleman who has game 
 in abundance, take the fillets for the quenelles ; 
 with the legs and shoulders make a gib lot te, or 
 a pie English fashion for the servants, and with 
 tie lemaining bony parts make the consomme. 
 When you lift up the fillets, you must leave the 
 sinews about the carcass. Pound the meat, and 
 make a panada as for other quenelles. Take a 
 calf’s udder likewise, which prepare as directed 
 above. Quenelles differ in flavour and appellation, 
 only in consequence of the meat of which they 
 are made. Remember, that the panada and calf’s 
 udder are indispensable articles. Follow what 
 is prescribed at No. L, for the quenelles of 
 veal, winch have been mentioned first, as beino- 
 more frequently used than all others. They are 
 very good and likewise very cheap, as veal is 
 always requisite for sauces and broth. Half or 
 three quarters of a pound of veal is no or’eat 
 drawback, neither can it weaken the sauce, although 
 of service to make several good entrees, as will be 
 -shewn hereafter. 
 
 No. 4 .—Quenelles of Partridges. 
 
 Take the fillets of three young partridges. Take 
 oft the skin and the sinews; cut the meat into dice. 
 
and pound it as directed above; rub this through 
 a sieve. Scrape the bottom of the sieve, and make 
 a ball of the same size as those of the panada 
 and udder. When you have mixed the three in¬ 
 gredients together, add two whole eggs, and the 
 yolk of a third. Then season with pepper, salt, 
 and allspice. Try the quenelle as directed above. 
 This farce will serve for different entrees , which 
 are all to be found under their respective names in 
 the article partridges. 
 
 No. 5. —Farce of Fowl a la Cream. 
 
 Make use of the panada and udder as men¬ 
 tioned above, but no herbs are required in the 
 panada , instead of which put a little bechamel. 
 Take the white flesh of a fowl that has been 
 roasted ; take off the skin and sinews, chop the 
 meat very fine; then pound it as you do for other 
 farces. Tut in the yolks of four eggs, after the 
 farce has been pounded and well seasoned. Beat 
 the whites of the eggs, and mix them gently with 
 the rest, stirring the whole with a wooden spoon. 
 Use th\s farce when requisite. It is generally used 
 for the fowl a la cream ; if you have in the larder 
 a cold roast fowl, you may make that entree with 
 it; empty the fowl by cutting a square hole in 
 the breast, the white flesh you make the farce 
 with, and then replace it in the cavity, as directed 
 farther on. 
 
 This farce is the same which many cooks deno¬ 
 minate soufle of fowl; only when you want to 
 make a soufle, you must make the farce more 
 delicate ; but for the fowl a la creme , or any other 
 bird, (for you may make either fowl, chicken, 
 pheasant, partridge, or any bird whatever), observl 
 ing only when you make farce of game, introduce 
 consomme of game in the panada , and fumee of 
 the game with the sauce. 
 
1 
 
 118 
 
 No. 6 .—Farce ci Gratia of Partridges, Rabbits, 
 
 and Fowls. 
 
 The farce a gratia is made in the same manner 
 as the farce d la Creme , with the only difference, 
 that you must not beat the whites of the eggs, and 
 that this farce is to be kept delicate and soft. Take 
 the flesh of roasted chickens, or young rabbits, or 
 young partridges, &c. The manner of using it is 
 explained in its proper place. This farce is in¬ 
 tended for the stuffing of such articles as are not 
 to be put on the fire again, or very little ; such as 
 calf s ears, calf’s feet, sheeps 1 trotters en canelon , 
 and risolles , as also quails, tongues, and larks au 
 gratia. There are some gratins that are also 
 eminces, and are treated of in their proper places. 
 Observe, that this farce is indispensable in good 
 cookery. 
 
 No. 7 .—Boudins d la Richelieu. 
 
 As soon as you have rubbed the farce d que¬ 
 nelles through a sieve, have some onions cut side¬ 
 ways into dices or filets, and that have been 
 sweated white, which you must mix with the farce 
 before it gets firm, to prevent the onion from 
 breaking. The boudins d la Richelieu, axe a farce 
 d quenelles either of fowl or of veal; they are 
 never made of game.* The author, however, is 
 inclined to think that a boudin a la Richelieu of 
 game might be attempted with success, though 
 contrary to general usage. At some future period 
 he proposes to make the experiment. 
 
 * The boudins d la Richelieu are most excellent eating. 
 In France they are always recommended for delicate constitu¬ 
 tions ; the general observation, that French cookery is too 
 rich, is here particularly out of place, for there is neither fat 
 nor sinews, and very little seasoning in this dish, and it is of 
 very easy digestion. 
 
119 
 
 No. 8 —Boudins a la Reft on 
 
 Are made with quenelles the same as those above, 
 only instead of onions sliced sideways, put mush’ 
 rooms, sliced in the same manner, and sweated 
 white in butter. When you drain the mushrooms, 
 preserve the liquor, which pour into the sauce that 
 sen es foi the boudins. The flavour of mush¬ 
 rooms must prevail in these boudins, the same as 
 that of onions prevails in the boudins d la Riche¬ 
 lieu. This entree is very preferable to that with 
 onions. 
 
 No. 9 .—Quenelles of Whitings. 
 
 Take the fillets of four whitings. If in a 
 Roman Catholic family, on a fast day, instead of 
 an udder use butter. The panada , however, is 
 far superior. In either case you must soak the crumb 
 of bread in some good milk, and squeeze it well 
 in a towel. Do not put the same quantity of but¬ 
 ter as you would of udder, as the butter would not 
 remain in. In every other respect these are made 
 like other quenelles. 
 
 No. 10. — Farce of Carp. 
 
 Take the flesh of two carps, which you must 
 chop, pound, and rub through a sieve. Soak some 
 crumb of bread in some good milk ; have a few 
 mushrooms and a little parsley chopped very fine. 
 Set the herbs to sweat in a little butter, over a very 
 slow fire. Then let them cool in a hair sieve. 
 Next put the bread, that has been soaked and 
 squeezed properly, with the flesh of the carp that 
 has been rubbed through a tammy, into a mortar 
 with a lump of butter of about the same bulk as 
 the flesh of the carp, and season with pepper, salt 
 allspice, three or four eggs, whites and yoiks’toge- 
 tiier : Jxtrees with butter, require more eggs than 
 
ISO 
 
 those with udcler. Yet before you put more than 
 three, you must try to roll some of the farce in a 
 little flour, and to poach it in boiling water. You 
 then taste, and add to the seasoning if required. 
 When completely done, rub it through a sieve, and 
 let it cool in the larder, and use it when you have 
 occasion. This farce is used for petty patties of 
 carp. We also make quenelles for matelottes , and 
 likewise for the carp farces , &c. 
 
 No. 11 .—Farce de Godiveau , for the Pates a la 
 Mazarines , fyc. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of very white 
 veal, a pound and a half of beef suet, which you 
 strip of all the sinewy skins ; chop the suet sepa¬ 
 rately, and the veal the same. When you have 
 chopped them both, take some herbs, such as par¬ 
 sley, sbalots and mushrooms, which chop also very 
 fine, and sweat in a little butter; mix the whole 
 together, veal, suet, and herbs, and season with 
 pepper and salt. Then chop them again. Break 
 two eggs, yolks and whites, and if the godiveau 
 appears to be well mixed, put a little piece into the 
 oven in a small tart mould. If it rises well, and is 
 properly seasoned, that is a sign of its being done : 
 if not, put it into the mortar again with a little 
 milk or water. 
 
 By dint of great practice, you acquire the facility 
 of observing accidents which cannot be properly 
 explained. In the summer season, for instance, the 
 suet being very soft, you find more difficulty in 
 using it. If you have any clean ice, put some 
 small pieces into the godiveau , to make the meat 
 suet combine the better. 
 
 No. 12.— Green Marbled Farce. 
 
 Make a farce d quenelles as directed above- 
 
121 
 
 Take part of it, and mix it with a verd de persil 
 (see Sauces) which you have drained, in order 
 that the water may not make the farce thinner. If 
 you wish to use it quite of a green colour, you mix 
 it with the whole; but if you intend to marble 
 either galantines , or fillets of soles, you put on 
 slightly a part white, and another green. Then 
 roll and poach them, and when they are cut they 
 look like marble. It is easy to conceive, that if 
 you wish to make it marble-like, you must alter¬ 
 nate the green and white by laying on the green at 
 occasional distances. 
 
 No. 13.— Red Marbled Farce. 
 
 This is much the same as the former. In France 
 we make use of butter of craw-fish, for fowls cl la 
 Cardinale , or red and marbled farces. In Eng¬ 
 land the eggs of lobsters are more frequently used, 
 which are not amiss for farces of fish, and fowls, 
 &c. 
 
 No. 14.— Stuffing for Hare or Turkey. 
 
 Take half a pound of beef suet, chopped very 
 fine, some parsley, a little thyme, pepper, salt, and 
 spices, the same quantity of crumbs of bread as of 
 suet, an egg or two, and mix the whole with a little 
 milk. It would not be amiss to put to it a very 
 small bit of butter, and to pound the whole in 
 a mortar for a short time. This farce may be used 
 with baked pike, or with either roasted or boiled 
 turkey, roasted hare, &c.; in short, with all such 
 articles as will be mentioned in this work. If the 
 taste of shalot is not objected to, it will be found to 
 add to the flavour of the stuffing. 
 
 No. 15.— Farce for Pies. 
 
 Take an equal quantity of veal and fat bacon ; 
 
 G 
 
122 
 
 chop them together, and season with pepper, salt, 
 and allspice, but no herbs, which only prevent the 
 pie from keeping. If it is however to be eaten im¬ 
 mediately, you may introduce some savoury herbs, 
 a little chopped parsley, and shalots, and make a 
 pate avx truffles, or chop some truffles, which 
 mix with the farce. In pies made of game you 
 may chop some ham, but in those made of fowl, 
 the saltpetre gives a red colour to the meat, 
 which can never look too white. For a farce 
 to preserve game, fowl, &c. in tureens, proceed 
 as follows: take a very light coloured calf's 
 liver, cut it into square bits of about an inch in 
 diameter, cut likewise half the same quantity of 
 lean bacon from the breast, and a few bits of fat 
 and lean ham, a small piece of butter, salt, pepper, 
 spice, parsley, chopped fine, shalot and truffles (if 
 at hand.) Fry all these ingredients gently over a 
 very slow fire, stirring often with a wooden spoon. 
 When the liver and the bacon are thoroughly done, 
 drain off all the fat, and put them into a mortar, 
 and pound them very well, and season very 
 highly, as it is used to preserve and to stuff’ game, 
 fowl, &c. in tureens. When you bake tureens of 
 this description in the oven, take care that you 
 place over the pot a bit of common paste, to 
 close them hermetically, one hour, more or less, ac¬ 
 cording to the size of your pie or tureen. When 
 done, take off’ the crust, squeeze the meat with a 
 spoon all round, and clean the pot; then fillup 
 with lard, and when cold cover it with clean paper, 
 and label it with the title of contents. 
 
 This method not only keeps better, but is more 
 mellow in the eating than the meat farcee. 
 
 No. 16 .—Farce for Sausages. 
 
 Sausages are composed of only hog’s flesh ; but as 
 
it is not amiss to stuff turkeys with this farce , the 
 author has thought proper to mention it here. Take 
 all the tender parts of the meat, the sinews being left 
 aside when the hams and breasts are cured, which 
 will be found treated of in a separate article. Cut 
 the whole of the meat into small dice; then cut 
 nearly about the same quantity of fat into small 
 dice also. Chop and mix them very fine together, 
 fat and lean; season with pepper and salt, allspice, 
 and a little mint chopped very fine. All these in¬ 
 gredients give the sausages a very agreeable taste. 
 When you use the sausages directly, you must 
 moisten them with a little water or milk ; they will 
 keep two or three days, but then they should not 
 be moistened. They are, however, not so good 
 when kept, as they are liable to turn red directly. 
 
CHAP. V. 
 
 ENTREES OF BUTCHER'S MEAT. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 No. 1.— Blanquette of Palates of Beef. 
 
 Take six or eight palates of Beef, rub them 
 over with salt, and stew them in a blanc, till you 
 can take off the upper skin. When the palates are 
 thus skinned and done, cut them into the size of 
 shilling pieces, and throw them into the sauce a 
 blanquette , which is a sauce tournee reduced, that 
 you have thickened. The palates of beef en blan¬ 
 quette are sent up to table either in a casserole au ris, 
 or, a vol au vent , or a timbal Observe, that the 
 palates must be always well done before you intend 
 to use them in any manner. This is a very diffi¬ 
 cult dish to dress, and is rarely sent up in per¬ 
 fection. 
 
 No. 2.— Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Peas. 
 
 I his is made nearly in the same manner as that 
 above; but previously to putting in the thickening, 
 
125 
 
 you take a few spoonsful of sweated peas intended 
 for entremets, and reduce them with the sauce, 
 that it may give the savour of the peas. Add a 
 little salt and sugar. Entrees of this sort should 
 be sweet, and not briny. 
 
 No. 3.— Blanquette of Palates of Beef with 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 Prepare the palates of beef as for other blan- 
 quettes. Pare some cucumbers and cut them into 
 the size of shilling pieces. Keep the parings to 
 make a puree, which you throw into the sauce, to 
 give it a taste of the cucumbers. Put the cu¬ 
 cumbers into a good sauce tournee , a little sugar, 
 and let them do; then drain them, and reduce the 
 sauce separately. When done, and the sauce is thick¬ 
 ened, put the liaison to it;* throw into the sauce 
 the cucumbers that are entire, and the palates of 
 beef, and serve up in a deep dish, or in a vol au 
 vent. 
 
 No. 4.— Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Truffles. 
 
 The palates to be prepared as above. Only in 
 this case cut the truffles into the size of shilling 
 pieces, and put them in butter and salt. Sautez 
 them on a brisk fire, till done. Let them have one 
 single boil in the sauce, before you throw in the 
 thickening, then mix the palates and truffles to¬ 
 gether. 
 
 No. 5.— Attelets of Palates of Beef a TItalienne. 
 
 Palates of beef are always prepared as directed 
 at No. 1. The only difference consists in the cut¬ 
 ting of them, and in the sauce with which they are 
 
 * As the cucumbers will always thin the sauce, do not put 
 them in till you serve up. This entree requires a little sugar. 
 
126 
 
 sent up to table. Take some sauce (Tattelets (see 
 Sauces), and after having cut the palates into 
 square pieces of whatever dimension you may think 
 proper, let them cool in the sauce. When quite 
 cold, run a silver skewer through them in a row, 
 and cover all the meat with some of the sauce. 
 Make the attelets as smooth as possible with your 
 knife. Next dip them into crumbs of bread, and 
 make them quite square. Mind that, both extre¬ 
 mities are well covered with the crumbs; dip them 
 a second time into an omelette ; and again into the 
 crumbs of bread ; let both ends of the skewers be 
 remarkably clean. Then fry the palates to a fine 
 brown colour, and serve them up with a brown 
 Italian sauce under it. 
 
 No. 6.— Palates of Beef au gralin , otherwise eu 
 
 Paupiette. 
 
 Have a good farce a quenelles ready : cut the 
 palates in two, lengthways, observing to keep them 
 of an equal size and straight; spread some of the 
 farce over the rough side, and roll them with the 
 farce in, observing to garnish both hands with some 
 of the farce neatly done: then put part of the farce 
 into the middle of the dish, and erect all the slices 
 of palates in the shape of a bastion, after having 
 stuffed and rolled them. Cover the whole with 
 layers of bacon, and put the dish into the oven, 
 without allowing the contents to get brown. When 
 the farce is done thoroughly, drain all the fat, take 
 off the layers of bacon, clean the dish well, and 
 mask the meat with a thick Espagnole , well sea¬ 
 soned, and a little ragout in the middle. 
 
 No. 7.— Miroton of Palates of Beef a la Ude. 
 
 Use a cutter both for the palates of beef and 
 truffles, which are thus made into pieces of an 
 
equal size. Dress them en miroton. Then take a 
 sufficient quantity of mushrooms, also of the same 
 size, to make a border round the dish: put in the 
 middle a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms, and 
 palates of beef, and sauce the miroton with a pretty 
 thick Espagnole. Before you use any of the pre¬ 
 ceding articles, they must be all done, and then put 
 a palate and then a truffle alternately, to the very 
 top of it. Keep the dish covered very warm to 
 prevent its drying. 
 
 No. 8. —Croquettes of Palates of Beef au vebule. 
 
 Take all the trimming from the blanquettes, mi~ 
 rotons , &c. and cut them in square pieces. Have 
 some mushrooms cut into small dice, which fry 
 white in a little butter. Then moisten with a little 
 thin sauce tournee , and let them boil gently on the 
 corner of the stove, that you may skim off the 
 grease. Next reduce this sauce with a pint of 
 cream : when it has got thick enough, throw the pa¬ 
 lates into the sauce, and let them boil for a moment, 
 that they may taste of the sauce. Let this prepa¬ 
 ration cool in a plate. When quite cold, roll the 
 whole into croquettes , either round or oval; dip 
 them once into crumbs of bread, then into an 
 omelette , and into crumbs of bread again; then 
 fry them till they are of a fine brown, and serve up 
 with fried parsley. If you should not have quite 
 enough of the palates, a sweetbread, or the trim¬ 
 mings of fowl, will match the other ingredients very 
 well. It is not the circumstance of being profuse 
 in cookerv that renders your cookery better; you 
 may give a capital dinner at a small expense, if you 
 turn every thing to advantage. When you have in 
 the larder some bechamele and mushrooms, cut 
 .some in small dice as well as the palate, and take 
 
128 
 
 the bechamelle in preference to make the croquette as 
 above recommended. 
 
 No. 9.— Beef's Tongue, Sauce hackee. 
 
 Take a tongue that is quite fresh ; let it dis¬ 
 gorge, blanch it to take away any tripy taste it may 
 have retained; then stew it in a good braize*. 
 When done, flay it, cut it in two, spread it open, 
 and mash with the sauce hackee. (See Sauces.) 
 This is but a very common entree. 
 
 No. 10.— Miroion of Tongue with Turnips. 
 
 Let the tongue be stewed as above, and then get 
 cold. Next cut it into scollops, dish it en miroton , 
 and place the dish covered at the mouth of the oven. 
 A short time before you send it up to table, glaze 
 it with a light glaze, and pour into the middle 
 Vharicot brun. (See Sauces .) 
 
 No. 11. — Miroton of Tongue with Sorrel Sauce. 
 
 Prepare the tongue as above. No. 10, only glaze 
 it a little more, and lay thicker. Pour into the 
 middle the puree of sorrel. 
 
 No. 12.— Miroton of Tongue with Spinach. 
 
 The same preparation as above, only use spinach, 
 and let them be richer and more liquid than for an 
 entremets. It is necessary to observe, that when 
 spinach is used as sauce, it must be more tasty and 
 liquid than when it is used for garnishing round a 
 tongue or ham. When for sauce, put a little more 
 broth and seasoning, as it is to give taste and relish 
 to whatever it is used with. 
 
 * You must remember that every thing which is called 
 braize, must be seasoned with carrot, onion, parsley, thyme, 
 bay-leaf, and clove. (See Braize.) 
 
129 
 
 13 .—Miroton of Red Tongue with mashed 
 Turnips. 
 
 This is not a French entree ; and is’only mentioned 
 here, because the author has seen it served at the table 
 of men of acknowledged taste. Take the remnants of 
 a tongue a Vicariate that is quite cold; cut it into 
 round slices, dress it in a dish, and put it into the 
 oven for a moment. Then glaze it, and serve it up 
 with mashed turnips in the middle. Never use 
 broth to warm your slices of tongue, that spoils both 
 colour and taste; put them in a clean plate, 
 covered with one another, and as soon as they be¬ 
 come warm,' glaze and serve them forthwith, but 
 never heat them in liquor. 
 
 No. 14 —Pickled Tongue , glazed and bigarrie. 
 
 This is a remove which is frequently used for 
 family dinners. Take a large tongue a Vicariate , 
 boil it well, then flay it, glaze it, and, after having 
 made it look quite neat, send it up with mashed 
 turnips on one side, and mashed carrots, or carrots 
 and spinach, on the other, &c. 
 
 Mashed Turnips or Carrots .—Peel some tur¬ 
 nips, wash and boil them with salt and water; 
 when properly done, press all the water out, and 
 pound them well in a mortar, then put them into a 
 stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 a little salt, half a pint of cream, and a tea-spoonful 
 of flour to prevent the water from running out; 
 mix and warm very hot, and use them when 
 wanted. The same method exactly for carrots. 
 
 Never rub them through a sieve, for they then 
 become a puree, and not a mash, and look dirty. 
 
 g 3 
 
130 
 
 No. 1 5. —Filets Mignons of Beef sautes a la 
 
 Lyonaise. 
 
 Take the inside fillet of a sirloin of beef, and 
 scollop it of about the size of the palm of your 
 hand. Mark them in clarified butter, with a little 
 salt and pepper, in a sautez pan ; when dinner¬ 
 time is come, sautez them and turn them over; 
 when done on both sides, drain the butter and put 
 a little glaze in its stead. Keep stirring the meat 
 in the glaze with a little lemon-juice, and a small 
 bit of fresh butter. Dish it en miroton , and pour 
 the Lyonaise in the sautez pan with the glaze. 
 When you have mixed that well, put the sauce in 
 the middle of the filets mignons , and serve up 
 quite hot. You must give this dish only when 
 you have a rump of beef; the small fillet left to that 
 part is sufficient; it would be unnecessary and ex¬ 
 travagant to spoil a sirloin. This dish is excellent 
 at breakfast to those who like onions ; it requires, 
 however, very high seasoning. 
 
 No. 1 6 —Filets of Beef marinaded d la broche. 
 
 Take the same part as above, and take off the 
 sinews, i hen lard it, and pickle it raw with an 
 onion and a shalot cut into slices, a little parsley, 
 salt, pepper, vinegar, &c.; let it marinade one 
 day. Then roast and glaze it. Serve up with a 
 poivrade. This dish is dressed in this way for 
 those who like vinegar. You must sometimes'omit 
 the vinegar, and put instead of it a little sweet oil; 
 it prevents the meat from drying, and makes it 
 tender. 
 
 It may be necessary to make a remark here, 
 which is of consequence to the right understanding 
 of the present work. We have two kinds of larding 
 
 O 
 
131 
 
 with bacon, that which is larded on the superficies 
 (as a fricandeau), is commonly called pique , while 
 that which is larded with wood or iron larding pin 
 through the meat with coarse bacon, is vulgarly 
 termed larde ; the adoption of the term larded and 
 pique is recommended. A filet marinaded is pique , 
 and veal a la bourgeoise, or beef d la mode, is 
 larded. 
 
 No. 17.— Ox-Tail in Hochepot. 
 
 The beef-tail being a very plain and common 
 dish, is seldom sent up otherwise than as a tureen. 
 (See No. 21, Deep Dishes, page 82.) This disli 
 has a detestable appearance, but when well drest is 
 delicious eating. It requires to be well done, and 
 is excellent either with peas, or as a haricot with 
 turnips. 
 
 No. 18 .—Miroton of Beef. 
 
 When you have some cold rump of beef left, cut 
 it neatly into slices, and put them into a saute pan, 
 with a little Espagnole or brown Italienne, some 
 salt and pepper, and a little broth. Give them a 
 few boils, and serve up quite hot. This dish, 
 when well managed, is excellent and economical; 
 but observe, you must keep it always well covered, 
 or it will become black and dry. The best way 
 is to keep it under the sauce. 
 
 No. 19 .—Kidney of Beef with Champagne Wine. 
 
 Take some kidneys that are of a nice light 
 colour; take off a little of the fat, mince it, and fry 
 it white in a pan with a little chopped parsley, 
 shalots, salt, pepper, &c. When it is done enough 
 powder a little flour over it, and moisten with a 
 glass of Champagne, or two or three spoonsful of 
 Espagnole. It must not boil any more, for it 
 
132 
 
 would get hard. But you must keep it hot, and 
 serve it up the same. We send this entree up to 
 table for breakfast only. 
 
 No. 20. — Beef-Stedks with Potatoes , French 
 
 fashion. 
 
 Take some thin slices of rump of beef, flatten 
 them, and season them with a little salt, pepper, 
 &c. Dip those slices into a little butter, that the 
 gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. You 
 must have some parsley chopped very fine, and 
 mixed with butter, salt, pepper, lemon, &c. When 
 your beef-steaks are done, put the above ingre¬ 
 dients under the steaks, and all round fried pota¬ 
 toes of a fine brown colour. Glaze the beef steaks; 
 you may serve them with different sauces, as 
 mushroom, oyster, sauce hache. Beef-steaks are 
 also served with oysters. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 21.— Sirloin of Beef braized. 
 
 Take that part of the beef that is between the 
 rump and the first ribs. Turn it over on th of let 
 mignon, and dress it in a good shape. Mark it in 
 a large braizing-pan, with plenty of parings of veal, 
 a large piece of the breast part of bacon, a small 
 bit of ham, a few carrots, onions, some parsley- 
 roots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned 
 with thyme, bay-leaves, spices of all sorts, and a 
 ladleful^ of good broth. Cover the sirloin with 
 bacon first, and then with two sheets of white 
 paper, to prevent the fire that you are to lay over 
 it making the meat look brown. When you have 
 closed the braizing-pan, stick some slips of paper all 
 round, and stew the sirloin for four hours on a very 
 slow fire. A moderately heated oven would be 
 preferable. The braizing-pan must have boiled 
 before you put it into the oven. (See Sauces for 
 
133 
 
 the Godard.) You are to garnish with pigeons 
 d la gautier , large quenelles , larded sweetbreads, 
 and especially large cock’s-combs, which slit into 
 the fillet, when you are going to send up to table. 
 
 No. 22 .—Roast Beef. 
 
 The author would recommend to the cook, to 
 choose, in the first place, a well covered sirloin, 
 not weighing more than twenty or twenty-four 
 pounds ; a larger piece is never well roasted, the 
 time which it requires causes the outside to be too 
 much done, while the middle remains quite raw. 
 The meat must be covered for one hour only with 
 paper, to prevent its taking too much colour; it is 
 necessary to observe, that for large pieces the fire 
 must not be too sharp, or the meat will be burned, 
 before it is warm through ; just before you take it 
 off the spit, spread some fine salt over it, and send 
 it up very hot with gravy only. This joint is often 
 spoiled for the next day’s use, by an injudicious 
 mode of carving. If you object to the outside cut, 
 take the brown off, and help yourself to the next; 
 by thus cutting it only on one side, you preserve 
 the gravy in the meet, and the goodly appearance 
 likewise : by cutting it, on the contrary, down the 
 middle of the joint, all the gravy runs out, and it 
 remains dry and void’of substance, besides exhibit¬ 
 ing a most unseemly aspect when brought to table 
 a second time. 
 
 No. 23 .—Brishet of Beef d la Flamande. 
 
 See Removes , No. 3, page 86. 
 
 No. 24 .—Rib of Beef braized en Hochepot. 
 
 Take about four ribs of beef: pare the thick part, 
 lard them with thick bacon, and braize them in the 
 same manner as you would do the rump. Send up 
 
134 
 
 with glazed onions, or cabbages, or hockepot, or 
 a sauce hackee , round it. Observe that you are 
 not to detach the ribs, which are to be served flat, 
 as if they were mutton chops. 
 
 No. 25.— VEntre-Cote of Beef broiled, Sauce 
 
 hackee. 
 
 Take the slice which lies between two ribs of 
 beef, flatten it well in a good shape, and broil it. 
 If it be thick, you must have a gentle fire to heat 
 it through ; if it be thin, the fire must be brisk, 
 or it will not get a good colour, nor eat so well. 
 The entre-cote is most tender eating. 
 
 No. 26 .—Hache of Beef 
 
 Take some 5 of the beef left the preceding day, 
 remove the fat and the skin, mince the beef about 
 the thickness of a half-penny, and about the same 
 size; spread over it salt, pepper, and flour, and 
 moisten this with the gravy left from the meat; 
 boil this hackee very little, for if it boil any length 
 of time it will be hard and tough, but if it is only 
 warmed it will be very tender. 
 
 When you make hackee for the servants, cut one 
 onion, or a few shalots very fine, season with salt, 
 pepper, bay-leaves and thyme ; let the hackee boil 
 one hour or more, and put the bones into it, which 
 will give a capital taste. When you take the meat 
 out to put into the larder, never forget to preserve 
 the gravy in a basin to make a liachee , or to use as 
 gravy under the roast; want of caution prevents 
 your giving a good taste to common cookery. 
 
CHAP. VI. 
 
 entrees of mutton. 
 
 MUTTON AND LAMB. 
 
 It is necessary to observe to the junior cook, 
 that almost every thing which is made with mutton, 
 may be made also with lamb ; with this only differ¬ 
 ence, that lamb being the tenderest meat, requires 
 less doing. If you make haricot of lamb, you 
 must sautez the cutlets first, and then boil them in 
 the sauce of haricot (see HaricotJ ; the epigram 
 is always made with lamb, as it requires a blan- 
 quette in the middle of the chop. Mutton is too 
 highly coloured for it. Any observation respecting 
 mutton is of importance, as it is more frequently 
 served at dinner than any other dish. Be cautious, 
 therefore, always to have your mutton very dark, 
 and marble like. Young mutton is very pale, and 
 has no flavour. You perceive the qualities of 
 mutton when it appears very brown, and when the 
 nerves of the leg are small and transparent. Young 
 mutton is larger and whiter, the flesh on the neck 
 being very dark and mixed with fat. 
 
136 
 
 No. 1 . — Mutton Cutlets cl la Soubise. 
 
 Take a neck of mutton, and cut the chops one 
 by one without flattening them ; cut oft* some of 
 the flat bone at the extremity of the chops. Put 
 them into a stew-pan with all the parings, together 
 with the parings of the onions for the soubise. 
 Season the whole well with carrots, a bunch of 
 parsley, and green onions, salt, and a very small 
 quantity of spice, &c., throw in four or five spoons¬ 
 ful of good broth, to braize them. When done, 
 drain them, and let them cool. Strain the liquor 
 through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to glaze. 
 Next pare the chops nicely, and put them with 
 the glaze. This being completed, dish them en 
 niiroton, and pour the soubise into the middle. 
 
 Some persons take two necks of mutton, cut two 
 bones to each chop, lard them with bacon, and 
 braize them as above; but mutton being in general 
 fat, is better without being larded. With regard 
 to the two bones, you must take care not to let 
 them be too thick, if they are too thick you cannot 
 dish them well. 
 
 Another , and a much better Method of preparing 
 Cutlets a la soubise. 
 
 Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than when 
 you wish to broil them. Pare them nicely, and 
 put them into a stew-pan, where they may all lie 
 flat. Put an onion or two, a few carrots tournees , 
 a little salt, a bundle of parsley and green onions, 
 seasoned,* four or five spoonsful of good con- 
 
 * It may be necessary to remind the reader, that seasoned 
 means a composition of all sorts of herbs. 
 
137 
 
 somme ,* and sweat the whole till it is entirely 
 done. Then take out the roots, put in a little 
 glaze, and reduce over a large fire. When entirely 
 a glace ', take them out of the fire for a few minutes, 
 then the cutlets, settle in the glaze, take out the 
 bones, trimmed and vegetable, turn over the cutlets 
 in the glaze, and take out the grease or fat, lay 
 them on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up 
 before they can get dry. This method is pre¬ 
 ferable to the other. You must not in either case 
 lard your chops with bacon. These cutlets may be 
 served up with all sorts of puree or vegetable. 
 
 No. 2.— Cutlets en Haricot Vierge. 
 
 Prepare the chops as above. Braize them in 
 the same manner. As many people object to 
 onions, serve them w r ith a haricot vierge instead 
 of a soubise. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 3.— Cutlets a la Minute. 
 
 Take the best part of a neck of mutton that has 
 been kept for a while. Cut the chops one by one, 
 and pare them as nicely as you can. Season them 
 with pepper and salt, dip them into some melted 
 butter, and broil them over a brisk fire. Serve 
 up with a very strong gravy of veal, well seasoned. 
 Observe that cutlets a-la-minute , to be good, 
 must not be too much trimmed, and you must 
 leave a little fat to them ; they are dipped in 
 butter to prevent them from drying and keep the 
 gravy in it. 
 
 No. 4.— Cutlets a l' Italienne. 
 
 Take the best part of two necks of mutton, well 
 
 * Be on your guard against using old broth: if you have 
 no fresh broth, put water. Old broth turns the cutlets red. 
 
138 
 
 mortified, to bring them very tender : trim them 
 as small as can be, without wasting any thing, 
 then laying them on the table, spread over each 
 side salt and pepper. Have in a plate the yolk 
 of one egg, take a paste brush and dip it in the 
 corner of the egg, rub the cutlets, one after the 
 other, and rub them in the crumbs of bread; 
 have some butter melted, but not clarified, dip 
 the cutlets in the butter and in the crumbs of 
 bread, then beat them in your two hands, and. 
 dip them again in the crumbs of bread, make 
 them very equal with the knife, and put a little 
 of the butter, in a thick sautezpan , put the cutlets 
 into it, and at the dinner time, put them over 
 a very brisk fire, to sautez them of a very good 
 colour, observe, if the fire is not very brisk, they 
 will take too much time in the cooking, and will 
 be necessarily too much done : as soon as they 
 acquire a colour, they are done. Have some 
 whity brown paper put over them and press them 
 between two pieces, in order to extract all the fat, 
 pass the paste brush of glaze lightly over, and 
 serve up with the Italian sauce very thin, spread 
 over ; this entree will be in universal favour, if you 
 are particular in the preparation of it. 
 
 No. 5.—Cutlet with Puree of Mushroom. 
 
 These are nearly the same as in No. 4. Only 
 you serve the puree of mushroom, instead of the 
 Italienne sauce, but do not mask with the sauce ; 
 glaze the cutlet, and drain them, and put the 
 puree in the middle of it. 
 
 No. 6 . — Cutlets en Haricot brun. 
 
 Many people braize and glaze them, and put 
 
139 
 
 the haricot brun in the middle, but I will explain 
 the manner in which they are to be prepared, in 
 order that they may taste of the turnips. Cut 
 the chops as in No. 1, pare the bones nicely, then 
 fry them in a little butter, of a nice brown colour, 
 drain the butter, and make a roux very blond; 
 that is to say, put into the same stew-pan a small 
 bit of fresh butter and a spoonful of fine flour ; put 
 this over a moderate fix*e, and turn it with a wooden 
 spoon till the flour is of a very nice brown colour, then 
 moisten with some gravy of veal of a fine colour, 
 well seasoned. When the sauce boils, throw in 
 the chops, and the trimmings of the turnips, and 
 a seasoned bundle of parsley and green onions; 
 let them stew gently on the corner of the stove. 
 Skim the sauce frequently : when the chops are 
 nearly done, drain them in a clean stew-pan. 
 Have ready some turnips turned in whatever 
 shape you think proper, but they must not be too 
 small for this entree; drain the sauce through a 
 tammy over the turnips and chops, which stew in 
 this sauce with a little sugar; continue skimming 
 frequently. When the turnips are done as well 
 as the chops, keep them warm au bain marie , till 
 you serve up. 
 
 N.B .—Some people fry the turnips in butter to 
 make them brown, which is useless, as they will 
 look very well, provided the gravy of veal is of a 
 fine colour; but in case you have no gravy of veal, 
 you put in an omelette-pan a small bit of butter, 
 a spoonful of white pounded sugar, and the turnips ; 
 fry them till they are of a fine colour, then moisten 
 and use them as specified above. 
 
 No. 7.— Cutlets sautees d VEssence. 
 
 Pare them, as in No. 3, marie them in a cutlet 
 
140 
 
 or sauty-pan, with melted* butter. Sauiez them 
 over a brisk equal fire. Drain part of the butter; 
 put one or two spoonsful of Espagnole and a 
 little glaze in the cutlet-pan, with the juice of a 
 lemon. Keep stirring the whole over the fire, 
 but do not let it boil. Dish and send up in¬ 
 stantly. 
 
 N.B .—If these are kept waiting they are 
 spoiled. They are fine eating, however, for such 
 people as like their meat under-done ; but if they 
 are over-done, they have no more savour than 
 cork or leather. 
 
 No. 8 .—Cotelettes d la Maintenon. 
 
 Pare the chops as in No. 3. Chop fine some 
 sweet herbs, such as parsley, shalots, and mush¬ 
 rooms, which fry in a little butter. When they 
 are done, fry the chops a little in that seasoning 
 till nearly done, let them cool, then wrap them up 
 in paper, and broil them over a slow fire. This 
 entree I cannot much approve of, on account of 
 the greased paper which is to appear at the table. 
 But some persons like them. These cutlets are 
 the same as cotelettes du papillotte. A few 
 crumbs of bread and a little chopped ham are 
 excellent additions, if put in the paper with the 
 cutlets. 
 
 No. 9.— The inside Filets d la Marechale. 
 
 The inside fillets of mutton are to be taken off 
 from under the sirloin; take off all the fat; flatten 
 the fillets with the handle of your knife, then scatter 
 
 * It is necessary to observe, when the butter is not to that 
 clarified, it must be put in a stew-pan over a slow fire, and 
 allowed to melt till the butter-milk settles at the bottom of the 
 stew-pan. Let it not be too much done. 
 
141 
 
 a little salt and pepper, have a paste brush dipped 
 slightly in the yolk of an egg, dip the fillets in the 
 crumbs of bread, and afterwards in the melted 
 butter, make them of a nice form with the knife, 
 put them in a sautij-pan with a little of the melted 
 butter, the less the better, as the fillet will take 
 colour sooner, and be more quickly ready. After 
 having broiled them, or saute , of a fine colour, drain 
 them in a sheet of very clean paper, to take off the 
 grease, and sauce them with the marechale. The 
 marechale for this is tarragon vinegar reduced in a 
 small stew-pan, and moistened with three or four 
 spoonsful of Fspagnole sauce, and a little Cayenne 
 pepper. 
 
 No. 10. — The inside Fillets marinaded au chevreuil. 
 
 You must have the fillets of four saddles of 
 mutton, which of course produce eight Jiletsmignons. 
 Lard them in the same manner as fillets cf rabbits, 
 next pickle them in a marinade crue, such as thyme, 
 parsley, bay-leaves, onions, salt, pepper and vinegar. 
 When they have been lying for two or three hours in 
 this marinade , mark them in a saute- pan over layers 
 of bacon, and bake them of a nice colour. When 
 done, glaze them, and serve them up with a poivrade 
 under them. Observe, that this entree is only to 
 be served in a family, where you give saddle of 
 mutton to the nursery, or to the servants; in that 
 case, you take off’ the inside fillets. You may 
 leave the inside fat to the saddle, and only take off 
 the fillets. 
 
 No. 11.— The inside Fillets with Puree of Sorrel. 
 
 These are to be pared'and larded as in No. JO. 
 Mark them as a fricandeau , by which is meant, 
 that you must make a bed of roots in a stew-pan ; 
 
142 
 
 these you cover with slices of layers of bacon; then 
 lay the larded fillets on the bacon, and powder 
 them over with a little salt. Moisten but little. 
 They only require one hour to be done, between 
 two fires, one at the top, the other at the bottom. 
 When they are done, reduce the liquor and glaze 
 the fillets with that glaze. Serve under them the 
 puree of sorrel. 
 
 N.B. —They are also sent up with endive, or 
 with the Soubise, or Macedoine , fyc. 
 
 No. 12.— Necks of Mutton en Aigrettes. 
 
 Take the best part of two necks of mutton, pare 
 the fillet, lard it as a fricandeau; take off the upper 
 skin of the flank : then take a piece of cold veal, 
 or a piece of cold bouilli beef, which cut round, a 
 little larger than your hand. Wrap this beef up in 
 a very thin layer of bacon. Next turn the mutton 
 with the larded fillets downwards, and the fat 
 upwards: mark this in the same manner as the 
 inside fillets with vegetables. When they are done, 
 glaze them of a nice colour, then take out the beef 
 and the bacon, and in the middle pour a Mace¬ 
 doine, or any other sauce. 
 
 No. 13.— The Neck of Mutton with Parsley. 
 
 Take the same two parts as above; after having 
 taken off the bones, take off' also the sinews, as if 
 you were going to lard them. Have in readiness a 
 few branches of parsley, quite green, with which 
 you lard the fillet only, but very thick, for Avhen 
 well done the parsley is diminished considerably, as 
 it gets dry. Before you want the mutton it must 
 be marinaded in oil and salt, an onion cut into 
 slices, &c. The oil makes the parsley crisp, and 
 preserves its green colour. Send up with a 
 poivrade , or an Esyag-nole. (See Sauces.) 
 
143 
 
 % 
 
 No. 14.— Les Curb (made s a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Take a saddle of mutton, and cut off the skin 
 that is over the fat without stripping the fillet. 
 Cut the saddle in two, and each of these two into 
 three or four; braize them as the mutton h la 
 Soubise; do not leave too much fat, glaze them 
 of a nice colour, and serve them with the haricot , 
 or the jardiniere, or endive, or spinach, &c. 
 
 N.B. —This entree, although frequently sent to 
 table in France, is not often introduced in this 
 country. It may be sent up with sorrel, or with 
 any sauce whatever; but it is too fat in general. 
 
 No. 15.— The Breasts of Mutton ala Ste. Menoult. 
 
 These are to be braized with carrots, onions, 
 spices, &c. When they ai'e well done, drain them, 
 l ake out the bones and let the meat cool between 
 two dishes, that it may be kept flat. When cold, 
 cut them into the shape of hearts, rounds, or into 
 chops, just as you like. Brush them over with the 
 yolk of an egg, and then dip them into crumbs of 
 bread ; next dip them into clarified butter, and 
 give them another coat of bread crumbs. Put 
 them into the oven to give them a fine brown, and 
 serve them up with a sauce hackee , or an Italienne, 
 or en haricot. This is also a common dish. 
 
 No. 16.— Musette of Mutton with Endive. 
 
 Take a shoulder of mutton that has been kept 
 for some while; bone it without taking off the thin 
 skin that is found near the joint; powder it over 
 with a little pepper and salt. Then pass a piece of 
 packthread round, as tailors do round a button, 
 fasten the packthread, and mould the shoulder of 
 mutton quite round. You must preserve the 
 knuckle so that it may resemble a bagpipe. Braize 
 
 
144 
 
 9 
 
 it, and season it well. After having drained and 
 glazed it, send it up with either endive or sorrel. 
 
 N.B. — It may also he stuffed and larded, and a 
 flowret larded in the top part, and sent up with 
 white beans d la Lyonaise. This is also a 
 common dish. 
 
 No. 17.— Sheep's Tongues with Turnips. 
 
 Take eight tongues of an equal size; let them 
 disgorge in a little water and flour, and next blanch 
 them. When thoroughly blanched, mark them in 
 a stew-pan, to braize them. In case you should 
 have a braize of beef, or of mutton, or any others, 
 as they will ali equally answer the purpose for 
 sheep’s tongues, when they are done, peel them and 
 cut them in two. Dish them en miroton, and 
 mask them with the sauce of the haricot, the tur¬ 
 nips of course being put in the middle. It is cus¬ 
 tomary in French cookery, to call any thing made 
 with turnips haricot. 
 
 No. 18.— The same with Cabbage Lettuces. 
 
 The tongues are to be braized as above, the same 
 as those you wish to cook in any way whatever. 
 Take a dozen and a half of good cabbage-lettuces, 
 w r ash them very clean, and blanch them. When 
 they are cold, and you have squeezed all the water 
 out of them, open them in two, take off the stalks, 
 powder a little salt and pepper over them ; then 
 shut them and give them a good form; mark 
 them in a stew-pan, surrounded with layers of 
 bacon; moisten them with a little braize, or a 
 poele, or any thing to give them a good taste; 
 otherwise take the pot-top, with a little broth and 
 salt. When the lettuces are quite done, drain 
 them, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the 
 
 
145 
 
 grease. Dish them en rosates^ namely, a 
 
 tongue, a lettuce, and so on successively. Put a 
 large tongue in the middle, to improve the look of 
 the rosate. Another time, cut the tongues in two, 
 and dish them en miroton , that is, one half of a 
 tongue, and lettuce alternately. In this case, put 
 a jardiniere in the middle, and mask * both the 
 tongues and the lettuce with the Espagnole. This 
 is likewise common entrees. 
 
 No. 19.— Sheep's Tongues au gratin. 
 
 Cut as many bits of bread in the shape of cocks’- 
 combs, as you have tongues. Take some farce 
 fine. (See Chap. 6.) Erect a little dome in the 
 centre of the dish, and dress the tongues in the 
 said farce , leaving however room enough between 
 to place one of the toasts; then put the dish into 
 the oven. When the farce and tongues are done, 
 take them out of the oven, and drain all the grease ; 
 they must be covered with bacon, in order that they 
 may not get dry (unless a mould may be procured 
 to close hermetically); you then put the toasts, or 
 crouton, fried of a fine brown colour, between each 
 tongue, and the sauce with a thick essence. Mind 
 that the tongues must be glazed and blazed before, 
 with whatever sauce you serve them. 
 
 No. 20.— Sheep's Tongue a la Maintenon. 
 
 The tongues are to be cut in two, and put into a 
 dusselle , or in fine herbs, the same as chops d la 
 Maintenon , When you put any meat en papil- 
 lottes , you must use as great a quantity of fine herbs 
 
 * Mask signifies, cover with the sauce. 
 
 H 
 
146 
 
 as possible, fas No. 8.) and put to it likewise the 
 ham chopped, and the crumbs of bread. 
 
 No. 21.— Hashed Mutton , English Fashion. 
 
 When you know that you will have hashed mut¬ 
 ton to make, be careful to keep some of the good 
 gravy, then cut the skin off, and the sinews; leave 
 as much fat as you can find in the inside of the leg; 
 cut the meat into small flat bits, season with a 
 little salt and fine pepper, spread a little fine flour 
 over the meat, mix all very well, then moisten 
 with the gravy ; if you have no gravy, you must 
 have a little broth and a small bit of glaze or port¬ 
 able soup ; do not let it boil, for it will make the 
 meat very tough. 
 
 No. 22.— Minced Mutton with Cucumbers. 
 
 Roast a leg of mutton that has been kept for a 
 long time. When under-done, let it cool; when 
 quite cold, pare the sinews, skin, fat, &c. &c. ; next 
 make a mrnce, which throw into the sauce with 
 cucumbers a VEspdgnole , as follows ;— 
 
 No. 23.— Minced Mutton with Endive. 
 
 This is to be prepared in the same manner as all 
 other minces of mutton. Only observe that minces 
 of black meat, as we call them, require brown 
 sauces ; and that the meat must never boil a second 
 time, as it would become tough. 
 
 No. 24.— Sheep s Tails with Puree of Green Peas. 
 
 Disgorge the tails in water to draw out the 
 blood ; next blanch them, and braize them in an 
 old braize ; otherwise they are to be seasoned with 
 carrots, onions, spices, &c. When done, drain and 
 glaze them. Then let them get a little dry in the 
 
147 
 
 oven. Put the puree of green peas under them ; 
 the same if you use puree oi sorrel. 
 
 xso. 25. Sheeps Tails with a la St. Laurent. 
 
 Biaize them in the same manner as those above ; 
 drain them and let them cool. Alind to give them 
 a pleasing shape. Next brush them over with the 
 yolk of an egg, and dip them into crumbs of bread. 
 4hen dip them into melied butter and crumbs of 
 bread again. Tut them into the oven till they are 
 of a fine brown, if your oven is hot enough ; if 
 not, broil and send them up with rich gravy, or an 
 Italienne. 
 
 A.B. —The entrees of mutton, from No. 17 to 
 this last number, are not very frequently sent up 
 to table in England, but in France they are held 
 in high estimation. The tails are served in dif¬ 
 ferent ways, the most commendable of which, is 
 that with green peas, and purees of all sorts. 
 
 No. 26.— Sheep's Brains en Matelotte. 
 
 Detach the brains from the heads of about eight 
 sheep, without breaking them. Put them into a 
 large vessel with some luke-warm water ; take 
 off the skin and let them disgorge for two hours. 
 When they are become quite w bite, blanch them 
 in boiling water, vinegar, and salt; and when they 
 are very firm, put them in very cold water, after 
 which place some layers of bacon round a stew-pan, 
 big enough to hold all the eight brains, add a small 
 onion with one clove, a small bundle of parsley, well 
 seasoned, and some salt, and cover them with some 
 layers of bacon, and a round of paper; a little 
 broth is required, and a few slices of lemon, to 
 keep them very white. Twenty minutes will suf¬ 
 fice to boil them, but they must be boiled two 
 
 it 2 
 
148 
 
 hours or more before dinner, to acquire a flavour; 
 then at dinner you must have ready some croutons , 
 in quantity equal to the brains, stick them in the 
 dish alternately, to leave room to put the brains in 
 the spaces; mask them with the sauce of matelottes , 
 mushrooms, and small onions, &c. 
 
 No. 27.— Sheep's Brains h la maitre d'Hotel. 
 
 Proceed entirely as above directed, with the 
 crouton , glazed and stuck in the dish as above; 
 and at dinner time, as soon as you have dished up 
 the brains, take three spoonsful of bechamel, a 
 good bit of fresh butter, a little salt and cayenne, 
 some parsley, chopped thyme, and blanch the 
 juice of half a lemon, then work the sauce over 
 the fire, to render it very hot and serve quickly. 
 
 No. 28.— Sheep's Trotters a la Poulette. 
 
 Take a dozen of sheep’s trotters well scalded. 
 Wash them in warm water, and let them disgorge 
 till very white, then put them in a blanc. (See 
 Calf's head.) When well done, take some sauce 
 tournee well reduced, to help the thickening, into 
 which you have put a little chopped and blanched 
 parsley, with the juice of a lemon ; then throw the 
 trotters into this sauce after having them well 
 drained. If you should happen to have no sauce 
 tournee , make a little white roux , moisten it with 
 good consomme , seasoned with a bunch of parsley 
 and small onions, and a few mushrooms. Let this 
 sauce stew on the corner of the stove; skim the 
 grease, and after having reduced it to a proper 
 state for the thickening to be thrown in, drain 
 the sauce through a tammy, and put the trotters 
 into it. 
 
149 
 
 No. 29.— Sheep's Trotters en Canelons. 
 
 Take some sheep’s trotters as above, and stew 
 them in the same manner ; but do not let them be 
 over-done, as they are to be stuffed with a farce , 
 which could not be done in the latter case. Intro¬ 
 duce the farced quenelles in the room of the bones. 
 When the trotters are well stuffed, put them 
 between layers of bacon, and moisten them with a 
 poele. Stew them for half an hour only, on 
 account of the farce. Drain them, and mask them 
 with a sauce well seasoned, either white or brown, 
 according to your taste. As these are to be served 
 whole, when you bone them, mind you do not 
 injure the skin, for they w r ould not hold the force¬ 
 meat that you must put in. Observe, that this 
 dish is excellent, as w'ell for the taste as for health. 
 It is particularly good for weak stomachs. 
 
 No. 30.— Sheep's Trotters Fried , 
 
 Are to be prepared in the same manner as the 
 preceding. Make a marinade cuite , and leave the 
 trotters in it to marinade. Then drain them, and 
 dip them into a paste; fry them of a fine brown, 
 and when w^ell drained send them up, with parsley 
 fried green in the middle. 
 
 For a mar made cuite , take carrots, onions, a 
 little parsley root, a clove, a little thyme, a bit of 
 bay-leaf, and a shalot, which mix together. Fry 
 them a little, but not brown, in a little butter. 
 When the roots begin to colour, moisten with 
 half water and half vinegar ; let the roots and 
 vegetables get quite done ; season with pepper and 
 salt, and drain it through a silk sieve over whatever 
 you may choose to marinade . 
 
150 
 
 No. 31.— Sheep's Trotters Farce. 
 
 Prepare the trotters as above, and when weli 
 done, put a little of the farce a quenelles well 
 seasoned in the inside, then crumb them over in 
 the same manner as the other, dipped in one 
 omelette. Observe, this fritter should be in a 
 moderate heat, to afford time to prepare the farce , 
 when done too quickly the meat will be raw. 
 When fried of a good colour, drain them very 
 well, and serve them up masked with a good 
 Espagnole. 
 
 Paste for frying, or hatter. —With regard to the 
 batter intended for frying marinades , beignet of 
 all sorts, as apples, apricots, peaches, beignet of 
 cream, &c. put about four spoonsful of flour into 
 an earthen-pan, with a little salt, a little olive oil, 
 and moisten with a sufficient quantity of water or 
 good beer, that the paste may not curdle. When 
 the flour is well mixed, beat the whites of two eggs, 
 which mix with the paste, and then put in what¬ 
 ever you may wish to fry. This method is prefer¬ 
 able to any other, except such as may be recom¬ 
 mended for artichokes, orlies, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 32.— Sheep's Kidneys broiled. 
 
 Take some kidneys that have been kept for a 
 while, cut them in two, and remove the thin skin 
 that covers them, use a small skewer to keep them 
 open, in imitation of two shells; powder them over 
 with a little pepper and salt, dip them into a little 
 melted butter, and broil them just as you are going 
 to serve up. Broil the side that you have cut open 
 first: when you broil the other side, the whole of 
 the gravy issues on the upper part. Mind when 
 you take them off the fire, that the gravy does not 
 
151 
 
 drop off. Have some parsley chopped very fine, 
 mixed with fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, 
 pepper, and salt; put a little of that mixture over 
 each kidney, and send up to table in a hot dish. 
 
 N.B .—Kidneys are an excellent breakfast for 
 sportsmen, but are seldom sent up to dinner. They 
 must be eaten directly, as they lose their goodness 
 by waiting. They have also the disadvantage of 
 being uneatable if they are too much done, and a 
 man that cannot eat meat under-done should not 
 have them at his table. 
 
 No. 33. — Sheep's Kidneys with Champagne. 
 
 Take six or twelve kidneys, according to the 
 quantity that you wish to dress; remove the skins 
 and mince them the thickness and size of a half, 
 penny ; have a little bit of lean bacon, cut in 
 small squares, fry them in a omelette pan, with a 
 very small bit of butter ; when the bacon is of a good 
 colour, put in the kidneys, taking care to move 
 the pan frequently, to fry the kidneys equally; 
 when they are done strew over them a little salt 
 and pepper, some parsley chopped very fine, and a 
 very small bit of shalot, well chopped also, pour over 
 a little flour; stir up all with a wooden spoon, then 
 moisten with a glass of white Champagne or Chablis, 
 (neither Madeira, nor Sherry,) a little glass of which 
 should be very hot, but do not let it boil, otherwise 
 the kidneys will not be eatable ; add a little lemon, 
 and a little Cayenne, and observe that those dishes 
 should be well seasoned. 
 
 No. 34.— Leg of Mutton braized, called generally 
 De Sept Heures. 
 
 See Removes of Soup, No. 7. page 88. 
 
152 
 
 No. 35.—Leg of Mutton , farcie or stuffed. 
 
 Take a leg of mutton, bone it without damaging 
 the skin, cut off all the fat; then take some fat 
 bacon, about one-third of the quantity of the inside 
 meat: chop the bacon and the meat together, season 
 the whole well, with chopped parsley, en chalolte, 
 and pounded spices ; put this forcemeat into the 
 mortar, when it is well pounded stuff the skin of 
 the leg of mutton, sew it underwise, wrap the whole 
 in a cloth to give it a good shape, and braize it as a 
 gigot de sept heures. Drain it a short time before 
 you serve it up, in order to be enabled to take off 
 the packthread. Then glaze and serve up with 
 the Lyonaise. The Lyonaise is as follows: take 
 one quart of white haricot beans, put them into soft 
 water for three hours, then put them into cold soft 
 water to boil, with a very small bit of butter; when 
 done, mince one very large white onion, and fry it. 
 in half a quartern of fresh butter ; when the onion 
 is well done, put to it a spoonful of flour, moisten 
 with some good gravy, and leave the flour to be 
 well done; then put a few haricot beans with 
 it, and rub it through a sieve or tammy ; after 
 this drain the haricot beans Avell, and put them 
 into that puree , well seasoned with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 No. 36.—Boiled Neele of Mutton. 
 
 Take from the best part of a neck of mutton, 
 the skin and the bones, which are unsightly. Boil 
 it for an hour and a half. Then send it up with 
 turnips mashed with a little butter and cream. 
 This dish does not require any further observation ; 
 it belongs to plain English dishes. 
 
153 
 
 No. 37 .—Boiled Leg of Mutton. 
 
 The same as the above, only boll longer accord¬ 
 ing to the size: and mind, not to boil it too fast, 
 as it will be tough, and white; but if you boil it 
 gently, it will be always good. 
 
 N 3 
 
154 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ENTREES OF VEAL. 
 
 It is necessary to observe, that the veal you intend 
 to serve for dishes must always be very white and 
 fat; what you use for sauces is not of so much con¬ 
 sequence ; but it is certain that very white veal is 
 more healthy than common veal; red veal will 
 disorder a great many stomachs, white never does. 
 
 No. 1.— Veal Cutlets broiled, a PItalienne. 
 
 Take the best part of a neck of veal; cut the 
 ribs one by one, flatten them, and pare them nicely, 
 powder over a little salt and pepper, take the yolk 
 of an egg, and with a paste brush rub the cutlets 
 with part of the egg, then dip them first in the 
 bread crumbs, then in melted butter, and after¬ 
 wards in the crumbs of bread again; give them a 
 good form, and broil them on a slow fire, that they 
 
155 
 
 may get a fine brown colour. Send them to table 
 with a brown Italienne , Espagnole, or gravy. 
 
 No. 2.— The same, ala VSnitienne, dites aux fines 
 
 Herbs. 
 
 Take the same part as above ; when the cutlets 
 are well pared, take a quarter of a pottle of mush¬ 
 rooms, a few shalots, a little parsley, chop the whole 
 very fine, separately, rasp a little fat bacon, and a 
 small bit of butter, and stew these fine herbs on a 
 slow fire. As soon as they are done, put the 
 cutlets with them, and stew them over a small 
 stove. When they are done, and well seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, skim off as much fat as you 
 can, putin a spoonful of sauce tournee , and thicken 
 the sauce with the yolk of three eggs, mixed with a 
 little cream, and the juice of a lemon : add a little 
 Cayenne pepper to it. 
 
 No. 3.— The same , a la Dauphine.* 
 
 Take six fine cutlets of veal, and pare them on 
 one side only, but all on the sarne side: lard them 
 like a fricandeau , only let the bacon be cut finer ; 
 let them be braized also in the same manner as a 
 fricandeau ; then reduce the liquor in which they 
 have been stewed, with which you glaze them. 
 Serve up with either endive or sorrel. 
 
 No. 4.— The same , a la Mirepoix. 
 
 Put a little fresh butter, a few small shreds of 
 ham, a little thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a few 
 
 * Observe, that part of the veal is always the best for fri¬ 
 candeau, which is intermixed with fat. The author never had 
 any other fricandeau served at the United Service Club. The 
 other way of making fricandeau is thready and dry. 
 
156 
 
 stalks or a bunch of parsley, into a stew-pan. Then 
 put the cutlets, which have been pared and seasoned 
 as above, over the ham and butter. Next sweat 
 them on a very slow fire. When they are done, 
 drain the grease; pour in two spoonsful of Espag- 
 nole , and one spoonful of consomme , to detach the 
 glaze, and the juice of a lemon. Send up the cutlets 
 covered witn this sauce, after having taken out the 
 thyme and bay-leaf. If you choose to serve up the 
 ham, you must cut it into fanciful figures. 
 
 No. 5.— Veal Cutlets a la Maintenon. 
 
 These are to be prepared in the same manner as 
 described at No. 2. When they have been stewed 
 for a short time with the fine herbs, let them cool; 
 then cut some bacon into the shape of hearts, which 
 you put on each side of the cutlets, to prevent the 
 paper from catching fire ; then wrap them well in 
 the paper, rub the paper with oil, and broil them 
 on a very slow fire on both sides. 
 
 No. 6.— Veal Cutlets a la Chinyara. 
 
 Pai'e six cutlets as above. Sweat them with a 
 little butter and ham ; when they have been well 
 seasoned, and are done, cut some slices of tongue 
 a Vecarlate of the size of the cutlets, which you 
 glaze, and with which each cutlet is to be covered. 
 Serve them up with an essence detached from the 
 glaze of the cutlets. 
 
 No. 7.— Veal Cutlets d la Dreux. 
 
 These are to be cut very thick, and larded with 
 large slips of ham cut square. Season and mark 
 them wrapped up in bacon and carrots, onions, 
 thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, &c. Lay the trimmings 
 on the top, and moisten with tw r o spoonsful of good 
 broth; let. them stew over a very slow fire for about 
 
two hours, When they are done, lay them in a 
 dish to cool. Next pare them of an agreeable 
 shape, and put them into the glaze of the liquor 
 which you have reduced. When dinner-time is at 
 hand, glaze them of a fine brown, and serve up 
 with an Fspagjiole, or sauce hackee or any other 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 8.— Veal Cutlets a la Chalons. 
 
 These are prepared in the same manner as those 
 above, No. 7. The only difference is, that they 
 are larded chequer-like, with pickled cucumbers, 
 ham, and fat bacon, and that the former are larded 
 with ham alone. Serve them up with a sauce 
 hackee or puree of sorrel. 
 
 No. 9.— Veal Cutlets , a la Financiere. 
 
 These are to be prepared, larded, done, and 
 glazed as those a la Dauphine ; put under them a 
 ragout a la financiere (see Sauces ), and between 
 each cutlet a large quenelle. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 10.— Neele of Veal a la Cream.* 
 
 Take the same pan as is used for the cutlets; 
 cut the bones short enough to be enabled to roll 
 the flanks underneath; give it a square shape, and 
 marinade it for a couple of hours with oil, parsley, 
 sliced shalots, pepper, salt, thyme, and bay-leaves. 
 Fasten it on the spit, so that the shape is not al¬ 
 tered, and then wrap it up in buttered paper. 
 When roasted for about an hour and a quarter, 
 take off the paper. Put in a small basin about a 
 
 *A la cream may sound absurd to an English ear; but as 
 this sauce gives its name to the dish, it must retain the French 
 appellation. 
 
158 
 
 pint of good bechamel , well seasoned ; put this 
 basin under the neck of veal, which baste with 
 this sauce till all the sauce adheres to it, then serve 
 up with clear bechamel under it. The crust of this 
 dish is the most relishing part. 
 
 No. 11.— Neele of Veal a la Mirepoix. 
 
 Make a mirepoix as follows, with rasped bacon, 
 butter, a bit of ham, thyme, bay-leaves, pepper, 
 salt, &c. Fry the whole on a slow fire. When 
 that is done, put the necks of veal fried with it; 
 only stew it a little, and let it cool. When cold, 
 take two sheets of white paper, butter one of them, 
 and trim it with layers of bacon. Then lay the 
 mirepoix over the bacon, and close the paper her¬ 
 metically. Wrap the whole up in several sheets 
 of paper, and bake it in an oven, which, however, 
 must not be too hot. It will be done in an hour 
 and a half’s time. When done, take oft’ the paper, 
 and send up to table with an Espagnole , or an 
 Italienne. As mirepoix is the name of the sea¬ 
 soned fat substance put round the meat to prevent 
 its drying, and also to give it taste, you must 
 remember to make no more than is wanted for the 
 size of the entrees you intend to make. Half a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of 
 ham, thyme, bay-leaves, salt, pepper, Sec. are suffi¬ 
 cient for this. 
 
 No. 12.— Neck of Veal a la Barbarie. 
 
 Trim the neck of veal as above. Cut some 
 black truffles into the shape of a nail, and with 
 these lard the meat. Put them so as to represent 
 a draft-board. Braize the meat as you would do 
 a fricandeau , but it requires bacon on the top, that 
 the veal may retain its white colour, and the truf- 
 
159 
 
 fles their black one. When done glaze it slightly, 
 and serve under it an Italienne with truffles, or the 
 sauce hacliee. 
 
 No. 13.— Neele of Veal a la Ste. Menhoult. 
 
 Braize a neck of veal as above, but without 
 larding it. Send it up glazed with any sauce you 
 may fancy. If it is returned untouched, make a 
 sauce (T attelets , with a little sauce tournee , and a 
 little white Italienne (See Sauces), which reduce 
 on the fire. When the sauce is quite thick, throw 
 into it the yolks of two eggs. Spread this sauce 
 over the neck of veal, cover it likewise with crumbs 
 of bread, then have a little melted butter, and strew 
 some more crumbs over it, and moisten it by using 
 the brush, dipped in the butter, and shake it over 
 the neck to spread the butter equally all over. 
 When the meat is thus well soaked, put it into the 
 oven to give it a good colour, or use the sala¬ 
 mander. Send it up with a sauce hackee. 
 
 N.B. —All the entrees of veal, such as carres , 
 Jricandeaux , coetlettes , sweetbreads, &c. are served 
 up with all sorts of purees , and la Macedoine , in 
 the summer season. It is useless to multiply these 
 articles when they may be explained more briefly; 
 by changing the sauce, you change the appearance 
 of the dish. 
 
 No. 14. —Le Fricandeau aux dijferentes Purees. 
 
 Fricandeau is a very good entree when made 
 with due care and attention, but it is seldom 
 dressed as perfectly and scientifically as it should be. 
 
 To make a good fricandeau, the veal must be 
 of the best quality, which you may know by the 
 meat being white, and not thready. Take off the 
 skin of a noix de veauf flatten it on a cloth or a 
 
16*0 
 
 clean towel, then at one stroke, level it with your 
 knife, for a fricandeau that is cut off at several 
 times, never looks so well. When you have pared 
 the top part, turn it round, make slits in the mid¬ 
 dle, that it may taste more of the seasoning. Next 
 lard it very thick, which in general, is not properly 
 done in England. The consequence is, that the 
 bacon not being laid sufficiently cross-wise, the 
 shreds shrink, and cannot be properly glazed. 
 Never blanch the fricandeau after it has been larded, 
 as some people do, but mark it in a stew-pan large 
 enough to contain the fricandeau , besides plenty of 
 roots cut into slices, such for instance as two car¬ 
 rots, two large onions, and some roots of parsley, 
 besides a small quantity of mace, allspice, thyme, 
 bay leaves, and whole pepper. Put all these on the 
 bottom of the stew-pan, with layers of very fat bacon 
 on the top of the vegetables, as lean bacon gives a 
 red colour to the fricandeau. When you have thus 
 well covered the roots, erect a small dome in the 
 centre, lay the fricandeau over the bacon, powder a 
 little salt over it, and moisten with a sufficient quan¬ 
 tity of broth to cover the roots without reaching the 
 said fricandeau. Then put a great deal of fire on the 
 cover of the stew-pan, keeping very little beneath the 
 stew-pan. It is not amiss to observe, that the fri¬ 
 candeau being done in this way, retains a good 
 shape, and all its gravy. 
 
 If you should wish to cook it as the author is far¬ 
 ther about to direct, the moment it is ■parti, (which 
 signifies, when it begins to boil,) put it over a very 
 
 * Noix de Veau —the leg of veal is divided into three dis¬ 
 tinct fleshy paits, besides the middle bone; the larger part, 
 to which is attached the udder, is what is called la noix, the 
 flat white part under it, sous noix, and the side part, c6nlre 
 noix. For these three parts the English have no name by 
 which the French appellations may be rendered. 
 
161 
 
 slow and equal fire, for three hours and a half, if it 
 is not very large. Baste it frequently with the 
 liquor: then take a needle a brider, which run 
 through the middle : if it g&ts in and comes out 
 easily, th efricandeau is done enough. Now put a 
 great deal of fire over it to make the bacon firm, 
 which otherwise would break when you glaze it. 
 The liquor must be reduced to be used as glaze 
 for the fricandeau ; it being more tasty than any 
 other glaze. Serve up with it such puree as the 
 season will afford, or the Macedoine , &c. 
 
 N.B .— "The fricandeau may vary with regard to 
 the shape, hut the flavour is always the same, if it 
 is done properly. If, for instance, a fricajideau is 
 to be served when there is a grand party, it is re¬ 
 quisite to give it another shape than for a family 
 dinner. Though an expensive dish when served 
 alone, it becomes rather cheap if there is a grand 
 dinner, as veal in abundance is wanted to make the 
 broths and sauces. The noix de veau , besides 
 glaze, will supply a very elegant and good entree. 
 In the summer season, give it the shape of a turtle. 
 Cut off'part of each extremity of th efricandeau : 
 take the tops of asparagus, which you lay beneath, 
 after having poured the Macedoine into the dish. 
 Have four braised lettuces ready, put one at each 
 corner, as sham claws. Asparagus and lettuces eat 
 well with a Macedoine , and of course they may be 
 used without any danger of their being disapproved 
 of. In the winter season, make quenelles of veal, 
 which place instead of the above-mentioned articles, 
 and serve up with an Espaqnole ; but the proper 
 sauce is sorrel. 
 
 Another Method. 
 
 When the fricandeau is fully larded, split it 
 
162 
 
 through the middle. Take a very large turnip, or 
 a piece of cold veal, which has been used to make a 
 sauce, cut either round or oval, wrap it up in 
 bacon, and thrust it within the cleft, as you have 
 done in the fricandeau. Mark this as the other, 
 and let it be done in the same manner; but 
 you should observe, that it will be done sooner. 
 Glaze it. Take either French beans or asparagus ; 
 place them erect inside the two extremities of the 
 cleft, and pour a Macedoine between, with a very 
 large sweetbread larded and glazed over the middle, 
 which produces a verypleasing effect. 
 
 The same may be done for a fricandeau en 
 puits, with a blanquette in the middle. 
 
 No. 15. — The Grenadine of Veal with the Puree 
 of White Celery. 
 
 We call grenadins small fillets of veal larded as a 
 fricandeau, cooked and sauced in the same manner. 
 Out of a noix of veal you may make two or three 
 grenadins , according to its size. Observe, only 
 they should be cut off' the long side of the flesh. 
 In general, cut them out of a noix de veciu. It is 
 no easy matter to explain the manner of cutting 
 them ; let it suffice to say, that being much thinner 
 than a fricandeau, they naturally are done in less 
 time. They are served up with a Macedoine , or 
 with all sorts of purees. 
 
 No. 16.— The Noix of Veal en Bedeau. 
 
 It is so called, because in France the parish 
 beadles wear gowns of two colours, one half of one 
 colour, the other half of another. 
 
 Take the noix of a young female calf, and trim 
 it as follows. If intended for an entree , choose the 
 
163 
 
 smallest you can procure; if for a remove , the 
 largest that can be got. Flatten it a little, retain¬ 
 ing the udder. Form a crescent on the border of 
 the fat, and pare that part where there is no fat. 
 Lard it as a frieandeau; let it be done in the same 
 manner, only cover with bacon the part that is not 
 larded, in order to keep it white, and glaze it 
 slightly when done. Being done in the same style 
 as the fiicandeau, it is served up with the same 
 sauces. 
 
 No. 17.— Veal a la Bourgeoise. 
 
 The only part which I could wish to recommend 
 in this case, is the cassis ,* which is fat, and a lusci¬ 
 ous eating. It is not generally sent up when 
 there is a grand dinner; but for a family dinner it 
 may prove very acceptable indeed. The plain way 
 of cooking this I reckon the best, and will ex¬ 
 plain it accordingly. Take a stew-pan large enough 
 to make the veal firm in a little butter, by frying; 
 when it is of a fine brown colour all round, put in 
 a few carrots, onions, spices, a little lean bacon, and 
 two calves’ feet, seasoned with pepper, salt, thyme, 
 &c. Moisten with two spoonsful of broth, or 
 water, and let the whole stew for a couple of hours 
 on a very slow fire. When done, drain the fat, 
 take out the spice, and serve up the veal with the 
 roots and the gravy all round, and the calf’s feet : 
 this dish will only do for the country. 
 
 No. 18.— Sweetbreads a la Dauphine. 
 
 If you use round dishes, you must have four 
 sweetbreads; if a long dish, three large ones will 
 
 * I call cassis, that part which is attached to the tail end 
 of a loin of veal; the same part of beef is called the rump. 
 
164 
 
 be sufficient. Mind, at any rate, to select them of 
 a large size and very white. Pare the sinews and 
 the fat; throw them into warm water, and let 
 them disgorge, to draw out the blood, and make 
 them as white as possible. When thoroughly dis¬ 
 gorged, blanch them a little in boiling water to 
 make them firm, that you may lard them with greater 
 facility. As soon as they are larded, rub a stew- 
 pan all over with butter, cut a few carrots and 
 onions over the butter; cover this with some fat 
 bacon, lay the sweetbreads over the bacon, powder 
 them over with salt, and stew them with a great 
 deal of fire on the top, and very little beneath. 
 When they are of a fine brown, cover them with a 
 round of paper, and lessen the fire on the top. If 
 they are large, it will require three-quarters of an 
 hour to do them. If they are too much done, 
 they become soft, and are not so palatable. 
 When properly done, drain them, and put them in 
 a pan with some glaze, and the bacon beneath. 
 Leave them in the glaze till dinner-time; then 
 drain them afresh, and glaze them of a fine brown. 
 Serve them up with sorrel or endive. 
 
 There is no necessity to moisten a sweetbread, 
 as they have so much original moisture, that they 
 will never be too dry. 
 
 No. 19.— Sweetbreads a la Financiere. 
 
 These are to be larded and done in every respect 
 as those above. Send up with a fine quenelle be¬ 
 tween or in the middle, and under them the ragout d 
 la financiere , or the ragout d CAllemande. 
 
 No. 20.— Sweetbreads a la Dreux. 
 
 Let the sweetbreads disgorge till they are quite 
 white. Then blanch them thoroughly, which is 
 
165 
 
 known by their becoming quite firm under your 
 finger. As long as you feel a softness in it, they 
 are not blanched through ; they want blanching 
 thoroughly for this dish. Then set them to cool in 
 cold water. Lard them with ham, chequer-like, 
 very close to the level of the sweetbreads, mark the 
 sweetbreads between layers of bacon the same as 
 the other, and stew them for three-quarters of an 
 hour. Next drain and glaze them, and serve up 
 either with a veloute , or Espagnole , or puree of 
 sorrel, endive, or Macedoine , peas, &c. 
 
 No. 21 .—Bianquette of Veal with Cucumbers. 
 
 Roast a neck, or a loin of veal. The leg part 
 is tough and dry, as every one must know. When 
 cold, cut it into scollops and put it into the sauce 
 bianquette. (See Sauces .) Take six fine cucum¬ 
 bers, cut them into quarters, pare them about the 
 size of the scollops, then take the parings and 
 some other pieces, which mince with a little onion 
 to make a puree. Fry the onions and the trim¬ 
 mings of the cucumbers together in a little butter: 
 when the cucumbers are entirely melted, moisten 
 with a sauce tournee , and stew them on the corner 
 of the stove for an hour; skim off the grease, and 
 rub this sauce through a tammy. Put the other 
 whole cucumbers into some sauce tournee , and let 
 them boil till done. Then put them in a small 
 basin with a little salt, and a tea-spoonful of white 
 vinegar, let them remain so for one hour, then 
 drain them in a very clean towel, and put them in 
 a hair sieve to drain. Put together the puree of 
 cucumbers and the sauce tournee' in which you 
 have boiled the cucumbers ; being sufficiently re¬ 
 duced, thicken it with yolks of eggs well beaten, 
 and seasoned with salt and a very little sugar. 
 
166 
 
 When the sauce is well thickened with the afore¬ 
 said articles, and a little thick cream, put in the 
 meat and cucumbers together, and keep the sauce 
 hot, that the meat may have abetter flavour. This 
 entree must be sweet, not too much so, but the 
 sugar must predominate. 
 
 No —Blanquette of Veal a la Paysanne. 
 
 Roast the veal as above, cut it in the same way, 
 reduce the sauce tournee , season well, put the veal 
 into the sauce before the thickening; chop some 
 parsley very fine, and put it in with the juice of 
 half a lemon before you mix it with the thicken¬ 
 ing; stir the stew-pan round without using a spoon, 
 and send up to table quite hot. 
 
 N.l ).—This is a very good method, but if you 
 can cut your veal whilst quite hot, it will be a 
 great improvement, as the sauce will then be 
 better imbibed by the meat. 
 
 No. 23 .—Scollops of Sweetbreads with Green Peas. 
 
 Take four fine sweetbreads, let them disgorge, 
 and blanch them thoroughly. Next, cut them into 
 scollops, as large as possible. Mark them in a 
 saute pan with melted butter and a little salt. A 
 quarter of an hour before you send up, saulez 
 them over a stove, with a clear fire, turn them 
 round, and when done, drain the butter, and put a 
 little glaze into the saute pan. Keep stirring the 
 sweetbreads in the glaze; dish them en miroton , 
 and send up the peas in the middle. 
 
 When vou have sweetbreads of desserte ,* cut 
 them into scollops, make them hot in a little light 
 glaze, and after having dished them en miroton , 
 
 * Desserte, is when left from the table. 
 
167 
 
 mask them with the peas. Scollops of swt et- 
 breads are easier to dress, when you put between 
 them a slice of fried bread cut round, and the 
 green peas in the middle ; without the fried bread 
 they do not keep the shape in which you dish 
 them. J 
 
 No. 23.* Scollops of Veal a VEcossc. 
 
 When you have had a large party, and wish to 
 practice a little economy after your previous ex- 
 pence, reserve from your dinner a small bit of the 
 sous noix de veau. Cut some slices off it of the 
 shape of a heart, which season with salt and pepper. 
 Take the paste brush and the yolk of a single egg, 
 rub the veal with it, and dip this into the crumbs 
 of bread, afterwards in the melted butter, and 
 again in bread crumbs. Put very little of the 
 butter in a sautez pan, and put the slices of veal into 
 it; fry them very briskly, of a very good colour, 
 and drain them, and dress them one over the 
 other round the dish, and serve over them a o-ood 
 Italienne sauce, or Espagnole. If you have no 
 sauce, matte a little in the following manner. 
 
 Receipt for the Sauce. 
 
 Put in a stew-pan a very small bit of fresh 
 butter, a spoonful of flour, one shalot, and one or 
 two mushrooms, if you are able to procure them ; 
 then fry them over a very slow fire till the flour 
 becomes brown ; moisten with boiling water, salt, 
 pepper, a bunch of parsley, thyme, cloves, &c.; 
 add to these a small bit of glaze, and skim this 
 sauce when well done; drain it through a hair 
 sieve, and serve under the cutlets, &c. 
 
 No. 24. The Attelets of Sweetbreads d l'Italienne. 
 
 Take some fine sweetbreads, as white as can be 
 
168 
 
 procured. Blanch them and stew them as directed 
 above. When done, drain them ; and when cold, 
 cut them into squares of about an inch. Put those 
 squares into a sauce (Tattelets , and let them cool. 
 When the sauce is cold, skewer the squares, alter¬ 
 nately, with a bit of calf’s udder ready done, using 
 silver skewers, and give them as nearly as possible 
 a square shape, all of a size. Then give them a 
 good shape with the sauce, dip them into crumbs 
 of bread only. Now give them a complete square 
 shape, and dip them into an omelette of four eggs, 
 whites and yolks beaten together with a little salt, 
 cover them over again with crumbs of bread, which 
 level with a knife. Next powder some crumbs of 
 bread on the cover of a stew-pan, and lay the atte- 
 lets over them. The moment you are going to 
 send up to table, fry them of a fine brown, and 
 sauce them with a brown or white ItaLienne , ac¬ 
 cording to your fancy. 
 
 No. 25 .—-Small Cases of Scollops of Szveetbreads. 
 
 Let the sweetbreads disgorge and be blanched 
 as above. When they have been lying for a time in 
 cold water, make small scollops of them, and mix 
 them with a dusselle , which is to be made in the 
 following manner:— 
 
 Take" half a pint of mushrooms, four or five 
 shalots, a little parsley, and chop the whole very 
 fine separately. Next rasp a little fat bacon, put a 
 small lump of fresh butter. Stew the fine herbs 
 over a slow fire, and put the scollops with them 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little pounded 
 spice. When done, drain all the fat; then put the 
 scollops into small paper cases fried in olive-oil, and 
 put to them a deal of seasoning, I mean plenty of 
 fine herbs. Then strew over a few crumbs of bread 
 fried in butter. Lay the paper cases for a moment 
 
169 
 
 in the oven, ancl when you are going to serve up, 
 pour into each of them a little thin KspagnoLe , 
 when you have squeezed the juice of a lemon ; but 
 contrive to drain all the fat, and serve very hot. 
 
 No. 26. — Croquets of Sweetbread. 
 
 Take such sweetbreads as have already been 
 served, cut them into as small dice as possible. 
 Have a good vebute reduced ready. Throw the 
 dice of sweetbreads into the veloute , and give them 
 a boil, that they may taste of the sauce. Then lav 
 them on a plate to cool. When cold, roll them into 
 any shape you like, round, oval, or long, Of all 
 things avoid giving them the shape of pears, as 
 some persons do, for in that case they must be more 
 handled, without at all improving the quality, 
 Serve up with parsley, fried green, in the middle, 
 
 No. 27 .—Rissole of Sweetbread. 
 
 Make the same preparation as for the Croquets , 
 then take some of the trimming of puff paste, fill up 
 with flour that it may not be too delicate, then spread 
 the paste with the rolling pin, very thin; moisten 
 the part round the meat, with the paste first dipped 
 in water ; turn up the paste round the meat, and 
 give it a good shape with your hand, take a paste 
 cutter, and cut them all of an equal size, dip them 
 in flour, fry them of a good colour, and serve up 
 with fried parsley in the middle. 
 
 No, 28.— Calf’s Brain en Matelotte. 
 
 Take three brains of an equal size. Strip them 
 of the upper skin, let them disgorge in water ; then 
 blanch them in water, salt, and a little vinegar. 
 When done, drain them, and put some slices of fat 
 
 l 
 
170 
 
 bacon round the stew-pan, put the brains on, 
 or all round the bacon ; season the braize with 
 a bunch well seasoned, salt, pepper, one small onion, 
 the juice of half a lemon, a small bit of butter, 
 and a spoonful of broth ; let them sweat on the fire 
 for half an hour, where keep them till you serve 
 up; have some bread fried of the shape of cocks’- 
 eombs, set it in the dish and put the brains 
 between, and mask the brains with the maielotte 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 29—Calf s Brain d la Maitre cVHotel. 
 
 Let them be prepared as above. Cut some bread 
 into the shape of cocksy-combs, which fry in butter 
 till of a fine colour. Dish them between each half 
 of the brains, which you have divided, and mask* 
 the brains with a maitre d'hdtel. 
 
 No. 30.— Calf's Brain ’with fried Parsley au 
 
 Beure noir. 
 
 ^ The same as above with regard to the stewing. 
 Fry separately some parsley very green, and like¬ 
 wise some butter in a frying-pan, till such time as 
 it ceases sparkling. Then put the brains into a 
 dish, with the parsley in the middle, and for the 
 sauce, put with the brown butter a spoonful of 
 vinegar, some salt and pepper, and pour it under 
 the brains. 
 
 No. 31 .—Marinade of Cafs Brain. 
 
 In case you should have any brains of desserte, 
 make a marinade cuite , and give a boil to the 
 brains in it. Then drain them and wrap them up in 
 paste. (See Paste for frying, page 150.) ^ 
 
 * Mask means to cover with the sauce. 
 
171 
 
 No. 32 .— Calf s Brain , Love-Apple Sauce. 
 
 These are to be prepared and done as those 
 above. Cut slices of bread in the shape of cocks’- 
 combs, fry and glaze them, and dish them between 
 the brains, with the love-apple sauce under them. 
 Mind that the fried bread for those sorts of entrees, 
 
 should be made of the shape of cocks’-combs, 
 
 and put in the dish with a little white of eo-o- s and 
 flour mixed together, and put in a corner of the 
 stove. 
 
 No. 33 .— Tendrons of Veal a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Tendrons are found at the extremity of the ribs. 
 Previously to your detaching them, remove the 
 dry bone which is next to them ; then sever them 
 from the bone, and scollop them in the shape of 
 oysters. Set them to disgorge, that they may be 
 made very white. Next blanch them through. 
 Let them cool. When cold, pare them of a good 
 form, and ?nark them in a stew-pan wrapped up in 
 layers of bacon. Put in a carrot, an onion, a bay- 
 leaf, a few branches of fresh gathered thyme, and salt 
 and pepper ; moisten them with good broth, or with 
 a poele, if you have any, and let them stew for four 
 hours as gently as you can. When they are done, 
 drain them, and put them into a saute pan with 
 a little glaze. Keep stirring them over the 
 fire that they may get the taste of the glaze. 
 Dish them en miroton, and serve la jardiniere 
 in the middle.* The tendrons of veal require 
 
 * La jardiniere means the gardener’s wife : by this is 
 understood, that any vegetable of a good appearance may be 
 used for that dish; those most particularly used are carrots, 
 turnips, asparagus, green peas, heads of cauliflowers, artichoke- 
 bottoms, mushrooms, French beans, Windsor beans, &c. 
 They are, however, to be used only in the spring, when they" 
 are in the highest perfection. 
 
 i 2 
 
17 2 
 
 to be very well done, and are, consequently, 
 difficult to dress ; then have some croutons of bread 
 fried of a nice colour, which put them between ; 
 this will enable you to dish them more tastefully, 
 and you must put the sauce, of whatever kind it is, 
 into the middle, whether maledoine,yeas,jardiniere, 
 cucumber, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 34.— Tendrons of Veal with Green Peas, 
 
 brown. 
 
 Whatever sauce you may wish to serve the 
 tendrons of veal with, they should always be dressed 
 as directed above. They may be served in differ¬ 
 ent ways, that is, either white or brown, which is 
 explained in the article of Sauces. The tendrons 
 ci C Espagnole are to be drained an hour before 
 you send them up. When you have ascertained 
 that there is no more fat left, put them with the 
 peas, that they may acquire their flavour ; give 
 them one or two boils, then dish them en miroton, 
 and mask them with the peas a V Espagnotc, 
 with crouton as above. 
 
 No. 35.— Tendrons of Veal with Green Peas, 
 
 white. 
 
 Braize the tendrons as above. When they are 
 done, drain them, and glaze them in a saute- pan. 
 Dish them en miroton, and put the peas in the 
 middle. (See the articles green peas, white, or 
 brown.) 
 
 No. 36.— Tendrons of Veal with Cabbage, 
 Lettuce, a V Espagnole. 
 
 Braize and glaze the tendrons as above. Then 
 take some braized lettuce. (Sec Entrees of Mut¬ 
 ton, No. 18, page 144.) Dish the tendrons en 
 miroton, that is, a tendron and a lettuce alter- 
 
173 
 
 natdy, and mash* with an Espagnole , putting 
 the jardiniere into the middle. 
 
 No. 37.— Tendrons of Veal en Marinade, dites 
 au Soldi. 
 
 If you have any tendrons that have been sent 
 to table, and are returned untouched, you 
 cannot send them lip a second time dressed in the 
 same manner, as they no longer retain their fine 
 colour. Put them into a marinade cuite, and 
 then in paste. (See Paste for frying, page 149.) 
 Fry them of a nice colour, and serve them up with 
 a poivrade, or with love apple sauce. 
 
 No. 38.— Tendrons of Veal en Chipolata , white. 
 
 (See deep Dishes, No. 6, page 76.) They may 
 also be served as entrees. Glaze them, and put 
 the chipolata in the middle. 
 
 No. 39.— Tendrons of Veal en Chipolata, 
 
 brown. 
 
 (See deep Dishes, No. 6, page 76.) They are 
 also served as entrees , provided you have some 
 deep dishes to contain all the ingredients and the 
 sauce ; for otherwise you had better not send them 
 up. This dish is very well in a casseralla d'ar¬ 
 gent, or silver stew-pan, (generally termed in this 
 country casserolle) ; you may likewise serve it up ip 
 a pate change , or a very high border of nouilleS. 
 See Nouilles.) 
 
 No. 40.— Tendrons of Veal with the puree of 
 Chestnuts. 
 
 The tendrons are served with all sorts of purees, 
 either of peas, celery, sorrel, onions, mushrooms, 
 
 * Mask means to cover with the sauce. 
 
174 
 
 &c.; but it is viseless to repeat similar observa¬ 
 tions. Tendrons with a puree must always be 
 glazed, and dished en nnroton when served as 
 entrees , with any sort of purees in the middle. 
 Observe, that whenever you wish to give a good ap¬ 
 pearance to this dish, you must put between each 
 tendron, a crouton of fried bread glazed, otherwise 
 the tendrons will not dress becomingly. 
 
 No. 41.— Calves' 1 Ears farcies and fried. 
 
 Take eight or twelve calves' ears, and let them 
 disgorge. Blanch them, and be particular to clean 
 away all the hair they have inside ; then stew them 
 in a blanc. (See Calfs Head , No. 10, Removes.) 
 When the ears are done enough, that is, when 
 you can stick your knife in them, drain, and let 
 them cool; then introduce a farce fine. (See 
 Farces Fines , Entrees of Fowl a la creme) into 
 the hollow part. Give the ear the shape of a horn. 
 Dip it into an omelette , and crumbs of bread twice 
 successively, and then fry them till they are of a 
 fine brown. Serve under them a maitre cChotel 
 grasse, or love-apple sauce. 
 
 No. 42. — Calves' Ears, Love-Apple Sauce. 
 
 These are to be done as above directed, more 
 particularly when they are very white, otherwise 
 serve them fried. Slit with your knife the part 
 of the gristle all round. Cut the thickest side 
 very flat, that they may stand upright. Dish 
 them en fieurons a blanc, over the love-apple 
 sauce. It is a difficult matter to explain this dish 
 iccurately. Bind the thinnest part of the ears in 
 two, and split them several times at equal distance. 
 When you turn the tendron on the other side, they 
 have a beautiful effect and are excellent eating. 
 
175 
 
 No. 43.— Calves' Ears with green Dutch Sauce. 
 
 As above, very white, and the Dutch green sauce 
 under it. The green Dutch sauce is a sauce 
 tournee reduced, and a vtrd de persil in it, with 
 the juice of a lemon and a little Cayenne. 
 
 No. 44. — Calves' Ears with the Ravigotte Sauce. 
 
 Are to he done as those above, and slit in the 
 same manner, and served up with a ravigotte. 
 The advantage of this entree , is, that you can 
 serve up the same meat twice or three times, 
 in different forms, and with a different flavour. 
 
 No. 45 .—Calf 's Liver Larded and Roasted. 
 
 Take a fine calf’s liver of a light colour. Lard 
 it as a firicandeau, and pickle it in vinegar with an 
 onion cut into slices, some stalks of parsley, salt, 
 pepper, thyme, and a hay-leaf. When it has been 
 marinaded for four and twenty hours in the pickle, 
 fasten it on a spit, roast it, and haste it frequently 
 with the marinade. Then glaze it with a light 
 glaze, as it is naturally of a black colour. Serve 
 under it a brown poivrade. This is hut a com¬ 
 mon entree , hut possesses an excellent taste when 
 skilfully dressed. 
 
 No. 46. —Scollops of Calfs Liver aux fines 
 
 Herbes. 
 
 Take a nice calf’s liver as white as possible, cut 
 it into slices of a good and equal shape. Dip 
 them in the flour, and fry them in a black frying 
 pan, of a very good colour, with a little butter. 
 When they are done, put them in a dish, and take 
 some fine herbs which you have previously shaped 
 
176 
 
 fine, such as parsley, shalots, mushrooms, &c= 
 Stew them slowly on the fire with a little butter, 
 when the herbs are sufficiently done, add a tea¬ 
 spoonful of flour, moisten with gravy, if you have 
 any, or with water, and add a small bit of glaze. 
 When done, put the liver in the sauce, which 
 warm, but do not allow it to boil, add a little salt, 
 pepper, lemon, and serve very hot. 
 
 This dish cannot be served in this country, as 
 nobody will sell the number required for a dish. 
 
 This is again a common entree , yet it is very 
 palatable. You may put the liver in the sauce; 
 but mind that it does not boil. It is a dish for a 
 breakfast u la fourchette. 
 
 No. 47.— Les pctites Noix d'Epaides de Veau 
 with Sorrel* 
 
 Th e petites noicc in Paris are generally sold at 
 the rate of a half a pound of meat. Ten or even 
 twelve are required for an entree , which is a very 
 dainty dish for those people who know how to eat 
 it. In general they are very fat, for which reason 
 you are forced to send them up to table with the 
 fat, as it keeps the noix mellow. Set them to dis¬ 
 gorge as you did the tendrons. Trim a stew-pan 
 with layers of bacon, put in the noix after having 
 blanched them, and give them a pleasing shape. 
 Then moisten with a poele , and stew them for an 
 hour on a very slow fire. Next drain them, and 
 glaze them at two different times. Dish them cn 
 cordon , and put the sorrel in the middle. 
 
 No. 48.— The Noix of Shoulder erf Veal with 
 
 Endive. 
 
 These are dressed exactly in the same manner 
 • These are to be found on the side of a shoulder of veal. 
 
177 
 
 as those above; but you put endives, either white 
 or brown, instead of sorrel. 
 
 No. 49.— Calf’s Feet plain. 
 
 Take some nice white calf’s feet, bone them as 
 far as the joint; set them to disgorge, and stew 
 them in a blanc. (See Calf's Head.) When 
 they are done, drain them and send them up quite 
 not, with parsley and butter in a sauce-boat. 
 
 No. 50.— Calf's Feet Marinade. 
 
 Prepare the feet as above. Make a marinade 
 cuite, and some paste for frying. Serve them up 
 with fried parsley or a poivrade in the middle. 
 (See Sauces.) This dish may be made very 
 economically. When you make a calf’s feet jelly 
 do not let the feet be too much done, then make 
 a marinade cuite , and put the calf’s feet to boil 
 in it for half an hour ; let them cool in a good 
 shape, put them in the batter to fry, and serve 
 under the poivrade , or tomata sauce. 
 
 No. 51.— Calves' Feet, farcis en Soleil. 
 
 Stew a few calves feet as above. WTen they 
 are done, drain them. Then make a little farce 
 fine. (In order to prevent too frequent repeti¬ 
 tions in a work of this kind, I have shewn the 
 manner of making the different farces in a separate 
 chapter.) When you have stuffed the middle of 
 the calf’s feet with the farce , give them a round 
 shape, then dip them into an omelette seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, and into crumbs of bread 
 twice over, and fry them till they are of a fine 
 brown. Serve them up with fried parsley very 
 green, and send up the brown sharp sauce in a 
 boat, or the sauce tomata. 
 
 1 3 
 
No. 52.— Calf's Feet , h la Poulette. 
 
 Stew them in a Plane , like those above. Dish 
 them, and pour the sauce over them. (See No. 27, 
 Entries of Mutton , for the sauce, page 148.) If 
 you were to put them in the sauce, they would 
 not look so well. Mind, drain them well before 
 you put them into the dish. 
 
179 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 f.ntrees of fowl. 
 
 Observation .—When you have an opportunity of 
 buying the fowls yourself, choose always white¬ 
 legged ones; their flesh is finer, and the skin 
 tender; they also look better at table. The 
 manner of fattening fowls is, to separate them from 
 the other chickens; mix together some oatmeal, 
 milk, boiled potatoes, and bread, if you have any 
 left from the table; add to the whole of it a little 
 dripping; mind not to give them too much at a time, 
 and not more than twice a day: above ail, kept 
 them very clean. When they are sufficiently fat¬ 
 tened, kill them, or they will fall ill and die. When 
 you find any of your poultry sick, chop a few leeks 
 with their food, which will cure them; but when 
 they become very fat, if you do not kill them, they 
 inevitably rot and die away. 
 
180 
 
 \ 
 
 No. 1.— Fozvl au Consomme , generally termed au 
 
 gros Sel. 
 
 Take a fine fat fowl, the flesh and skin of which 
 are perfectly white ; empty the fowl without making 
 too great an aperture, singe it gently, and scald the 
 legs, which are to be turned inside of the body; 
 then lay on it a pretty thick layer of fat bacon ; 
 fasten it tight, and let it be boiled in broth, which 
 must boil before you put it in, otherwise the fowl 
 would lose its white colour. If the fowl is of a 
 larger size, it will require an hour and a quarter 
 before it is done enough : if it is of a common size, 
 one hour only will do. Next drain it in a dish, 
 wipe off all the fat, and send it up with a little of 
 the liquor in which it was boiled, and which has 
 been reduced in the process from one quart to half 
 a pint at least, with the addition of a little salt in 
 the liquor, and put salt on the breast of the fowl. 
 
 No. 2.— Fowl, or gros Sel. 
 
 The same as above, with the only difference, 
 that you lay both over and under the fowl some 
 crystalized salt, that has not been pounded. 
 
 No. 3.— Fowl d la Villeroi. 
 
 Take a fine fowl, which may be known by the 
 connoisseurs by a skin of bluish hue marbled with 
 grey: it is to be emptied and singed in the 
 same manner as directed No. 1. Let it be 
 trussed, the legs turned down outwards: inside of 
 the body introduce a small quantity of but¬ 
 ter kneaded with salt and lemon juice. The 
 fowl to be put into an oval stew-pan, with a 
 layer of fat bacon : next pour some yo'ele over it. 
 (See Sauces poele.) Those articles which are 
 
potlez ,* requiring to preserve their whiteness, are 
 not to be kept on the fire so long as others. It 
 requires only three-quarters of an hour for a fowl 
 to be done in this style. A capon would require 
 full an hour. To be served with sauce a la jlnan- 
 ciere. 
 
 t Observation to be particularly attended to by the 
 Cook. —As the poele has no translation, it retains 
 its name ; it is indispensable in fine cookery, and 
 is made as follows:—Take one pound of beef-suet, 
 one pound of very fresh butter, and one pound of 
 \ eiy fat bacon ; cut the suet and the bacon into 
 very large dice, put them into a stew-pan with two 
 pounds of veal cut in the same manner, fried till 
 the veal becomes very white, and then moisten with 
 about three pints of clear boiling water, a handful 
 of salt, one bay-leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, one 
 onion stuck with three cloves, and a great bundle 
 of parsley and green onions; let the whole boil 
 gently till the onion is done, then drain it through 
 a hair-sieve, and use it for any thing that may 
 want poele. T-he use of poele is to make every 
 thing boiled in it very white and tasty: in the 
 winter it keeps for a week, and is very useful in 
 the 1 aider, particularly if you do not put in any of 
 the fleshy part of the bacon; otherwise, the meat 
 that you boil in it will turn quite red, on account 
 of the saltpetre used in curing the bacon. 
 
 No. 4.— Fowl a la Montmorenci. 
 
 The same care and attention are requisite in this 
 case as in the former. The fowl being trussed up, 
 you have some boiling water ready, then laying 
 
 Poelez is almost the same operation as braizinrj ; the 
 only difference is, that what is pnielez must be underdone, and 
 a braize must be done through. 
 
hold of the fowl by the saddle, dip the breast only 
 into the water in order to give additional firmness 
 to the skin and flesh; next dip it into cold water. 
 When the fowl is quite cold, lard the whole breast 
 in the same manner as a fricandeau of veal, and 
 put it into an oval stew-pan, trimmed all round 
 with fat bacon, and moisten with the poele, but 
 none at the top. There must be a brisk fire over 
 it, and a slow one under it, the same as for a f ri¬ 
 candeau, and it will be done within three-quarters 
 of an hour at most. Dry the bacon with a sala¬ 
 mander, glaze of a good colour, and send up with 
 sauce a VAllemande, or a ragout a la royale. A 
 ragout is aV Allemande when in a sauce a V Allemande, 
 a la royale with the bechamellc , and a la jinanciere 
 with the Espagnole sauce. 
 
 No. 5.— Fowl a la Conde. 
 
 Procure a nice fowl, singe and truss it up as 
 above; slit the breast, and introduce small slices 
 
 of truffles cut into the following shape into 
 
 the slits that you have made : cover the whole with 
 slices of bacon, and let it be stewed as above. Care 
 must be taken, however, when you pour out the 
 bacon, not to derange the symmetry. This dish 
 requires to be garnished in imitation of a chambord 
 with larded sweatbread, cocks’-combs, pigeons a la 
 gautier, large quenelles d la cuilliere, and sauce a la 
 Jinanciere . 
 
 No. 6.— Fowl a la Turque. 
 
 Empty a fine fowl, and be particular in washing 
 the inside of it with very hot water; if you leave 
 any blood in it, the rice would be full of scum. 
 Your rice having boiled a sufficient time in rich 
 consomme, season it with salt, and introduce some 
 
183 
 
 into the body of the fowl, which you next roast, 
 well wrapped up in layers of bacon, and in paper ; 
 it requires an hour to have it sufficiently done. 
 Send it up with rice round the fowl, the same as 
 you have used to put inside, only add to it two 
 spoonsful of very good beckamelle , well seasoned; 
 do not let it be too thin, and pour a little veloute 
 over the fowl. Take particular care to keep the 
 fowl white. If you want to make a very good 
 and cheap dish, wash a quarter of a pound of 
 Carolina rice in water, which you must pour away 
 till it becomes quite clear, and the rice retains no 
 odour. Have a good and white fowl well dressed, 
 wash the inside with hot water, then put the fowl 
 in an oval stew-pan with the rice, and an onion 
 with two cloves stuck into it and some salt. Let 
 it boil gently for an hour and a half, then take out 
 the onion and the cloves, and skim all the fat. 
 Serve this fowl with the rice, but mind that the 
 rice must not be too liquid, or it will have a bad 
 appearance. This dish is called la poularde au ris , 
 and is very wholesome, excellent diet. 
 
 No. 7.— Fozvl d la Dreux . 
 
 The fowl to be singed and trussed up as above. 
 In order to give it additional firmness, use boiling 
 water, as in No. 4. Cut some ham into long 
 squares ; lard the breast of the fowl in imitation of 
 a small draft-board, put it into the stew-pan as 
 above, and moisten with potle. The same time, 
 and no longer, is requisite for the fowl to be com¬ 
 pletely done. To this must be added, the sauce d 
 CAllemandc. Observe, the pieces of ham must 
 not be too large, and must be carefully stuck in at 
 equal distances so as to represent a draft-board; 
 when done, glaze the ham to make it shine. 
 
184 
 
 No. 8 .— Fowl , with green Oysters. 
 
 Singe and truss a nice fowl, and put it into a 
 stew-pan, the same as in No. 3. When done 
 enough drain it, and send it up with oyster sauce 
 as follows. 
 
 Oyster-Sauce for Fold or Turkey. —Take two 
 dozen or more oysters, and take care to preserve 
 all the liquor when you open them. Put them 
 into a small stew-pan -with the liquor, and add to it 
 a spoonful of water. When the liquor boils the 
 oysters are done ; stir them with a spoon, and put 
 them to drain in a hair-sieve as you take them 
 from the stew-pan with a spoon ; let the liquor 
 settle, and pour it off' clear into another vessel ; 
 beard the oysters, and wash them again in the 
 liquor, in order to remove all grit and sand ; then 
 put a pound of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with 
 a spoonful or two of very fine flour; when the 
 flour is fried a little, moisten with the 03 ster liquor, 
 and a pint of cream: let this boil fifteen minutes, 
 and add to it two spoonsful of becliamelle: if 3 r ou 
 have no becliamelle , put a small bit of glaze, or 
 portable soup, well seasoned. Mind, this has no 
 essence of anchovies, as for fish : it is the only dif¬ 
 ference. Mask the fowl with this sauce. 
 
 No. 9-— Fowl aux Olives. 
 
 Singe, &c. &c. a fine owl as above, then take 
 some olives, which are to be blanched till they are 
 no longer briny. Next boil them in a thin Es~ 
 pagnole. Skim the sauce and add a little lemon- 
 juice, and pour it under the fowl. Serve up with 
 some stuffed olives, without stones. Turn the 
 olives with your knife, so as to take out the stone, 
 and leave the olive whole. 
 
185 
 
 No. 10.— Fowl d la Creme. 
 
 This dish is made out of a cold fowl, either 
 roasted or stewed: you take off the breast and 
 fleshly part of the fowl by cutting it square all 
 through, with a little bread toasted and dipped in 
 butter stop the aperture of the bottom. Then 
 have the farce d la creme , as directed in No. 5, 
 with which fill the fowl; then make a kind of wall 
 round the fowl with buttered paper, cover the 
 same with bacon, in order that the fowl may not 
 get too much colour. If this dish be placed on 
 the flanks, some of the same farce may be served 
 o«i toasts cut in the shape of hearts or lozenges, 
 which are called temoins. These are to be baked 
 in the oven, the same as the fowls, and the fat to 
 be well drained. Send up with a thin Espagnole 
 sauce, or veloute. The toast must be fried before 
 you put the farce over it. 
 
 No. 11.— Fowl d la Monglas. 
 
 This is likewise a cold fowl of desserte, take off 
 the breast as above. You must have ready either 
 an emince, or a salpicon pretty thick, which is to 
 be introduced cold into the body of the fowl. 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little fresh 
 melted butter ; then cover the breast of the fowl 
 only with crumbs of bread, basted with clarified 
 butter. Next give it a colour with the salamander , 
 but you must be careful that it does not get a 
 brown colour too soon. Now baste it with a little 
 butter again : take the red-hot shovel to give the 
 fowl a good brown colour on all sides. Serve a 
 brown sauce under it, if you have applied a salpi¬ 
 con ; and a veloute if you have used an emince; 
 it may also be called a poularde en surprise. 
 These dishes are very good and very cheap, as 
 
186 * 
 
 they are always made from the remains of yes¬ 
 terday. 
 
 Emince or salpicon may be made with the same 
 sauce ; salpicon is a composition of different ingre¬ 
 dients, and emince is all of one sort, of meat, either 
 fowl or game. 
 
 Salpicon. —Cut into small dices, some mush¬ 
 rooms, tongue, truffles, and filets of fowl; 
 the truffles and mushrooms must be ready 
 done, as well as the tongue and fowl; 
 put all this into a very reduced Espagnule , 
 and when cold use as directed. 
 
 Emince —is only the fleshy part of either 
 fowl or game, minced and put into some 
 bechamelle well seasoned ; the difference 
 between mince and dice is, that when 
 you have a short allowance of meat, you 
 are obliged to mince, as it requires no 
 shape, and you may use whatever flesh 
 you like, the dice require very good meat. 
 When the fillets are eaten in the parlour, 
 you must make the best of what is left. 
 Salpicon is in general brown, minced fowl 
 always white. 
 
 No 12 . — Ford d la Dubaril. 
 
 This must likewise be a fowl of desserte ,* blit 
 yet very white. Take off* the breast, as in No. 11. 
 Then take the fleshy part of a nice white roast 
 fowl, which you cut into small square pieces of an 
 equal size; you also cut some tongue the same: 
 put these slices of fowl and tongue into a bechamelle 
 pretty thick. Keep the fowl very hot. The mo¬ 
 ment you are going to serve it, pour the emince in- 
 
 * Desserte means what comes from the table, or is left at 
 the parlour. 
 
187 
 
 side the body of the fowl; thin slices of tongue, 
 cut of the shape of eocks’-combs, should be put 
 round the mince on the top of the fowl; serve 
 under it a ragout a VAllemande, and poached eggs 
 on the top of the mince. 
 
 No. 13.— Forcl ala Mirepoix , otherwise dla Cendre. 
 
 Truss the fowl as in No. 1. Next mark a mire¬ 
 poix without its being melted, that is to say, scrape 
 some bacon, a little butter, a few slices of ham, with 
 a little thyme, bay-leaves, salt, and pepper. Then 
 spread the whole on a sheet of white paper : wrap 
 the fowl up in this sheet of paper, and cover it 
 with several other sheets: let the whole be closed 
 hermetically, lest the grease should be lost: then 
 put it into the oven if not too hot; if it should 
 happen to be so, let the fond be then covered with 
 hot ashes, and over these have some live burning- 
 coals, but not too vivid, for fear of the paper catch¬ 
 ing fire, which would spoil the fowl. It requires 
 two hours for the fowl to be sufficiently done; 
 when so, drain it well, and send it up with an 
 Espagnole under it, or poivrade, or a sauce hackee. 
 This dish is seldom served, as it gives gi’eat trouble 
 in the making. 
 
 No. 14.— Fowl d la Cardinal. 
 
 Take a nice white fowl, singe it, and take out 
 the bones without destroying the skin. Next have 
 a farce d quenelles ,* wherein you introduce a 
 little lobster spawn well pounded to make it very 
 red. This farce being made rather liquid, is to be 
 
 * Farce a quenelles ; the necessity of preserving this ap¬ 
 pellation ari-es out of the multiplicity of different farces 
 which are made, and are called in England, forced meats. 
 As this is a particular one, the professor must retain the pro¬ 
 per name. 
 
188 
 
 injected, first between the skin and the flesh of the 
 fowl, and then inside of the body. You then 
 mould the fowl into an agreeable shape: next put 
 it into an oval stew-pan well trimmed with slices of 
 bacon, and pour some poele over it; leave it on the 
 fire for an hour and a half. As it has no bones 
 left, it requires more time before it is done. Serve 
 it up with a sauce d /’ ALlemande, to which you add 
 some of the red to dye the sauce, or some love- 
 apple sauce. 
 
 No. 15.— Fowl d Campine , with raw Onions. 
 
 Truss the fowl with the legs outwards, and roast 
 it lengthways. It must be of a good colour. 
 When done, slit the breast, cut raw onions in 
 slices, which you introduce into the slits you have 
 made, and send it up with a brown poivrade highly 
 seasoned, and very hot. 
 
 This dish is of Provencal and Spanish origin; 
 in general in warm climates they prefer strong 
 eating, the onion should be sliced before, and re¬ 
 main in a plate ready to put into the fowl the 
 moment it comes from the spit. 
 
 No. 16.— Fowl d la Tartare. 
 
 Take a fine fowl, turn in the legs as usual, then 
 cut it in two, take the bones off from the back, cut 
 the breast-bones off, break those of the legs, flatten 
 the fowl with the back of your knife, and season it 
 with salt and pepper : then take the yolk of one 
 egg, and with a paste brush, rub the fowl all over; 
 dip it in the crumbs of bread and in the melted 
 butter in succession. Next broil it up to a fine colour, 
 on a slow fire, that it may be done thoroughly. 
 Send it up with the brown Italienne. Thrust 
 your knife into it, to ascertain if it is well done ; it 
 
189 
 
 requires an hour, or at least three-quarters, to be 
 done properly. 
 
 No. 17 .—Foiel & la Chingara. 
 
 T^ake a nice fowl of a fine white colour, singe 
 and pick it well; then cut it into four equal parts, 
 well trimmed. Next cut some thin slices of ham of 
 a very good shape, put them into a buttered stew- 
 pan, and put the four quarters of the fowl over 
 them ; let the whole simmer for a while on red-hot 
 ashes : when the fowl is done, drain off the fat, and 
 powder a little salt and pepper over it; you then 
 detach the glaze made out of the gravy of the fowl 
 and slices of ham; pour a little Espagnole, with 
 the juice of a lemon, and send it up with the slices 
 of ham over the four quarters, and four large fried 
 pieces of bread between, of the same dimensions as 
 the slices of ham. Mind, this is to be highly 
 seasoned. 
 
 No. 18 .—Fowl with Tarragon Sauce. 
 
 Take a fine fowl, truss it and poele it as in No. 3. 
 When you are going to send it up to table, mask 
 it with tarragon sauce, made as follows : put into a 
 smail stew-pan, a few branches of green tarragon, 
 and a wine-glass of white vinegar ; let it boil for 
 ten minutes, then add four spoonsful of sauce 
 tournee , and thicken with two yolks of eggs. 
 Strain lhe whole through a tammy, and put to it a 
 small pat of fresh butter, a little lemon-juice, some 
 salt and pepper, and some leaves of tarragon cut 
 like lozenges, and blanched very green ; cover the 
 fowl with this sauce. 
 
 All other pluches, such as leaves of parsley, 
 chervil, &c. &c are served up with whole entrees , 
 by which is meant, that the fowl has not been cut 
 in pieces. Then use any sauce you may fancy, 
 
190 
 
 Pinches may be made of different coloured sauces, 
 but green leaves shine better in white sauce than 
 brown, and the majority of the nobility prefer 
 white sauce. 
 
 No. 19 -—Fowl with Caulijluwers. 
 
 The same as in No. 18; the only difference is, 
 that you boil some cauliflowers in water with a 
 little butter and salt. This you put round the 
 fowl, and then mask both the fowl and cauliflower 
 with a veloute. Mind that whenever you boil 
 cauliflowers for the garnishing of entrees or re¬ 
 moves, they should always be boiled in water, salt, 
 and butter, ^one hour before dinner time,) be¬ 
 cause they become very white in water so prepared, 
 and lose their green appearance. 
 
 No. 20 .—Cutlets of Fillets of Fowl , with Crumbs 
 of Bread d la Marechale. 
 
 Take four small fowls; cut off the fillets, with¬ 
 out injuring the filets mignons ; cut the merry¬ 
 thoughts in two. Take off the filets mignons; 
 pare them in the shape of hearts ; and stick the 
 merry-thought bones into the points of the hearts, 
 to give them the appearance of chops: and do the 
 same for all the rest. Season them with pepper 
 and salt; then brush the fillets over with yolks of 
 eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread ; next dip 
 them into melted butter, and then into crumbs 
 again. Use your knife to level the bread, and 
 broil those fillets over a brisk fire. The fillets 
 being very thin, require only to be lightly browned. 
 Serve under them some thin Espagnole sauce 
 well seasoned. [The author would here observe 
 to the young and inexperienced cook, that when 
 he has something thin to broil, the fire must be 
 very sharp; and when something thick, the fire 
 
191 
 
 must be moderate, as it takes more time to be done 
 through.] These fillets may be sauiez ’d in the 
 same manner as the lamb chops or mutton cutlets. 
 Take a very little melted butter in a saute pan, and 
 put it over a very sharp stove, which will do as well 
 as broiling them. The marechale sauce is better 
 when you prepare it in the following manner: 
 
 Man ( liale tsauce. Reduce two spoonsful of 
 tarragon vinegar to one; then add six spoonsful of 
 veloute to it, thickening this sauce with the yolks 
 of two eggs; work the sauce very well, finish with 
 a small bit of fresh butter, salt, and a little Cayenne. 
 Serve this sauce in preference to the other. 
 
 No. 21. The Wings of Fowls a la St. Laurent. 
 
 Take three fowls, divide the breasts into two 
 parts, take off the sinews and small bones, season 
 with salt and pepper, &c. brush them as above 
 with yolks of eggs, then dip them into bread, then 
 in melted butter and bread again ; next broil them 
 in the same manner as above, well seasoned, and 
 send them np with a thin Fsjjagnole , or the mare, 
 chale sauce. 
 
 No. Filets of Fowls sautes au supreme. 
 
 Take off the fillets of three fowls, which will 
 produce nine fillets, as two of the filet, miqnons 
 are used to make a large fillet. You then prepare 
 them all alike, and put them into a saute-pati with 
 some melted butter and salt, covered with a round 
 of paper buttered, to prevent the fillets from dry¬ 
 ing and getting dusty. When you have sautez 
 the fillets on a sharp fire, drain the butter, but be 
 careful to preserve the gravy of the fowls with a 
 small quantity of the butter : put four spoonsful 
 of bechamelle, and two spoonsful of double cream 
 Let them warm gently without boiling, or the 
 
192 
 
 * 
 
 fillets would get tough : put likewise a spoonful of 
 consomme , and taste if the seasoning is palatable. 
 You must mind that this dish is a fine entree , and 
 must not be too highly seasoned. Send up with 
 sliced bits of bread, fried in butter, and glazed 
 over, which are to be placed between the fillets. 
 The sauce to be poured over the fillets only, and 
 the croutons of bread to be kept crisp. 
 
 No. Scollops of Fowls with Cucumbers. 
 
 Take off the fillets of three fowls, cut your scol¬ 
 lops of the size of a half-crown piece, dip them into 
 some clarified butter, in a saute- pan, sautez them 
 over a brisk fire on both sides, and throw them into 
 sauce of cucumbers. The shortest way of making 
 the scollops, and likewise retaining all the gravy, is 
 to sautez the fillets just at dinner time, and to 
 scollop them quickly. 
 
 No. 24.— Scollops of Fowls with Essence of 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 These scollops are prepared in the same manner 
 as those above, but the sauce is not the same ; cut 
 the cucumbers of the same shape and size as the 
 scollops; keep the parings or trimmings of the 
 cucumbers to make a puree . As this sauce must 
 have a positive taste of cucumbers, put the cucum¬ 
 bers into a basin with a little salt, and half a glass 
 of vinegar, let them mcirincide for one hour, then 
 drain them upon a clean cloth, put them into a 
 stew r -pan with a small bit ol butter, let them tiy a 
 little without colour; to drain the water from the 
 cucumber, sprinkle a spoonful of flour ovei them, 
 then moisten with consomme enough to let the fat 
 rise on the top. Put a small bit of sugar, and a 
 bundle of parsley and green onions. When the 
 cucumbers are sufficiently done, drain them in a 
 
193 
 
 hair sieve, and put them by, covered with a plate. 
 Now take the parings, fry them in a stew-pan with 
 a little butter, moisten with the sauce in which you 
 have boiled the cucumbers, skim off all the butter, 
 reduce the sauce quite thick, taking care to add the 
 juice of the cucumbers to be reduced with the sauce, 
 and then put three spoonsful of good bechamelle 
 witli it; rub this through a tammy; keep this 
 sauce very thick. Next sautez the scollops on 
 both sides, but mind, as soon as they appear white 
 they are done; lay the dish on its side, in order to 
 drain off all the butter; put the fillets into the 
 sauce, drain the cucumbers again, and put them to 
 the fillets. If your sauce is quite thick, put to it a 
 spoonful of double cream, a little salt, and serve in a 
 deep dish with some jieurons of pastry round the 
 dish, observe that this dish must be rather sweet. 
 ^ ou must put a little sugar into it. The readiest 
 mode of making scollops is to mark the fillets (with¬ 
 out trimming them in the melted butter) with a little 
 salt, and sautez them on a sharp stove till they are 
 slightly done, then have a clean sheet of paper, cut 
 the fillets in two, sideways, and scollop them with 
 care and very quickly, to keep the gravy in ; then 
 put them in the sauce with the cucumbers, that 
 they may acquire their flavour. Take care the 
 bain marie does not boil, or the scollops will be 
 too much done, and, in consequence, tough. 
 
 No. 25.— Scollops of Fowls with Truffles. 
 
 These are prepared as above, but at the moment 
 when you put the fillets into the butter, the truffles 
 must be ready peeled and cut of the same round 
 form and dimension as the scollops will be. Season 
 with a little salt; sautez the truffles and scollops 
 a few moments before dinner-time ; and put them 
 
 K 
 
191 
 
 into a bechamelle, to which you have added a little 
 reduction of truffles. This reduction is made as 
 follows: the trimmings of truffles are to be reduced 
 in a little consomme , introduce some of this glaze 
 into the scollops, and as it is always brownish, add 
 three or four spoonsful of thick cream to the saute, 
 to make the sauce white; season it according to 
 your palate. Do not forget to keep the sauce very 
 bright. You must be very particular in the pre¬ 
 paration of this dish, as it is one which distinguishes 
 the fine cook. Sautez any truffles, whether fowl or 
 game is not material, being almost similar, but take 
 care that the meat and the truffles are both suffi¬ 
 ciently done. '1 he plan is, to put in the saute-pan 
 first the fillets, which you dip in the melted butter, 
 and put in the saute-pan; then when you have 
 done them ail, put in the truffles ready cut in slices; 
 when the fillets have been saute , you must leave 
 the truffles a little longer in the saute-pan over 
 the fire, and keep stirring with a spoon to fry them 
 equally, then put the scollops together, and give 
 them a turn on the stove; raise the saute-pan on 
 one side, to drain the butter, then put the scollops 
 in the sauce one hour before dinner to give the 
 taste of truffles to the meat, and keep the sauce 
 thick, as it is always easy to make it thin afterwards. 
 
 Observation relative to Sautez in general .— 
 Mind, you must never let the saute be too much 
 done ; these entrees are very difficult to make in 
 perfection. When they are too much done, they 
 kfe not eatable. It is this point of perfection in the 
 management of cookery, which distinguishes the 
 good from the bad cook. 
 
195 
 
 No. 26,— Scollops of Fowl a la Conti , with 
 
 Truffles. 
 
 The same quantity of fowls as No. 25., the only 
 difference is, that you keep the Jilels mignons , 
 which you lard, one half with bacon and the other 
 with truffles. You must take care that the Conties 
 are not over-done. Those that are larded with 
 bacon, must be well covered with fire, and those 
 that are decorated with truffles must be wrapped 
 up in bacon, and afterwards glazed. Give them 
 the shape you please when you put them into the 
 saute- pan, either of garlands, rosasses , &c. The 
 Conties must be put round the dish, when you 
 have dished the scollops. 
 
 No. 27.— Scollops of Fowls xoiih Puree of Green 
 
 Peas. 
 
 These scollops are prepared, and done in the 
 same manner as those above. When they have 
 been saulez , put them into the puree of green 
 peas. 
 
 No. 28.— Fillets erf Fowls a la Chingara. 
 
 Take the fillets of three fowls, which you divest 
 of the skin and sinews. Mark them as the above, 
 with clarified butter in a saute- pan, together with 
 some slices of boiled ham of the same size. Sautez 
 them over a slow fire; but do not let the fillets be 
 too long on the fire. Let the ham be of a fine 
 colour; glaze it well, and dish it en miroton. Put 
 three spoonsful of Fspagnole into the saute- pan, 
 after having drained the butter, one spoonful of 
 consomme , two pats of fresh butter, the juice of one 
 lemon, some salt, and a little Cayenne; glaze the 
 bits of ham, and cover the fillets only with this 
 sauce. Three fowls produce, in general, nine fillets, 
 
 k 2 
 
196 
 
 as you must make three with the inside fillet, the 
 nine fillets will make a very small entree ; but you 
 must always add nine other things, either fried 
 bread, tongue, or ham, otherwise the dish will be 
 shabby; a good cook will always save a small bit 
 of tongue, or ham ; if he finds nothing else, he puts 
 in its place some crouton of fried bread of the 
 same shape as the fillets. 
 
 No. 29-— Blanquette of Fowl marbree. 
 
 This dish is one which the author does not ap¬ 
 prove of, but it is served at grand dinners. Take 
 off the breasts of three fleshy fowls, wrap them well 
 up in bacon and paper, then roast them ; do not 
 let them be too much done. Next lay them aside 
 to cool. Take off the flesh, first from one side, then 
 from the other, which you cut to the size of a half- 
 crown piece, as also some slices of a red tongue; then 
 put into the dish that is to be sent up, a miroton of 
 tongue and of fowl; that is, a slice of each alter¬ 
 nately, and so on in a spiral line. Take care to 
 keep the dish quite hot. The moment you are 
 going to send up, cover it with a sauce a blan- 
 queite, or a VAllemande. 1 hese entrees shoidd be 
 made when you have much cold fowl in your larder, 
 such as after a ball supper, for instance. 
 
 No. 30.— Wings of Fowl a la Dauphin. 
 
 If you have a very large dinner to send up, and 
 use a great number of fowls, take eight fillets off 
 from the same side, which makes no difference with 
 regard to the expense; thisdish looks better when the 
 wings are all from the same side: prepare your fillets 
 well, lard them with fine bacon, and then put them 
 into the oven in a well-buttered stew-pan, in order 
 to give them a good shape; when they have got a 
 
197 
 
 certain degree of firmness, lay them over slices of 
 bacon, and put under the bacon abed of vegetables, 
 the same as for a fricandeau, with a little salt, and 
 a good fire over them, in order that the larded part 
 may be seized : the wings will be done in ten 
 minutes; glaze them, and send up with whatever 
 sauce you think proper. Endives with bechemelle , 
 the soubtse , and the puree of celery, and of green 
 peas, are however preferable to all others. 
 
 No. 31.— Boudin a la Reine. 
 
 This dish is made out of cold fowls. Take the 
 breast and fleshy parts of several fowls, which you 
 cut into small dice, all of an equal size. Throw 
 those dice into a reduction of bechemelle , and season 
 them well; next put them into a dish that they 
 may cool, and give them a good form with your 
 knife. When this preparation is quite cold, cut 
 them into two equal parts, which you make into 
 boudins* of the size of the dish: roll them into 
 crumbs of bread ; then dip them into an omelette ,1 
 and roll them again in bread. You must take 
 care that the extremities are well covered with the 
 crumbs, otherwise they would break in the frying- 
 pan. When they are fried to a good colour, drain 
 them, wipe off the grease with a clean towel, and 
 serve with a thin bechamelle between. 
 
 No. 32.— Croquettes of Fowl au Veloute. 
 
 These are prepared in the same manner as the 
 Boudins d la Reine, but you must keep them 
 rather thick, to prevent their shrinking while frying. 
 A little fried parsley is to be put into the middle 
 of the dish, and you erect the croquettes round it. 
 
 * A long shape. 
 
 f Omelette consists of eggs beat together with a little salt. 
 
198 
 
 There are several manners of rolling them, as in 
 the shape of a cork, of a ball, of a pear ; the tail of 
 which is made out of a carrot, or some other sub¬ 
 stance, which the author does not approve of; those 
 which look the best, are in the shape of a cork. You 
 must press pretty hard on the extremities, that 
 they may stand erect on the dish. To place them 
 in a circular form, with fried parsley in the centre, 
 has a pretty effect, though it is very plain. 
 
 Those that are in the shape of a pear, are called 
 a la Dubaril. There are also croquettes of sweet¬ 
 breads, of palates of beef, of cocks’-combs : but 
 they are all much alike, as will be shewn here¬ 
 after. 
 
 Croquettes of any kind, ought to be made only 
 with remnants of fowl or game, as they require a 
 great quantity of flesh ; but they may be made 
 with what is left from the preceding day. 
 
 No. 33.— Haclii, or minced Fowl cl la Polonoise. 
 
 If you have any remnants of fowl, mince them, 
 and put the minced meat into a good b6cliamelle , 
 without suffering it to boil. Sometimes you may 
 put the whole into a vol au vent , at another time 
 into patties en timballe; another time you may 
 put it in a bordurc , with poached eggs over the 
 minced meat. By this means you obtain a variety 
 of dishes : you may likewise send it up in crous- 
 tades , but these croustades bear the appearance of 
 a dish of the second course. 
 
 No. 34 .—Legs of Fowl en Caneton. Duckling-like. 
 
 After having prepared the fillets of several fowls, 
 the legs should be turned to advantage: pull the 
 bones entirely away from the white flesh ; but take 
 care not to destroy the knee, which must serve to 
 make the beak of the duck. Cut the bone on both 
 
sides the joint, and keep the knuckle. When you 
 have boned the thighs, stuff them moderately with a 
 farce a quenelles; next sew them up witli a little 
 thread, and put them into the oven on a flat dish; 
 put over these another flat dish with a weight on 
 it, to give them a good shape. Leave them in the 
 oven till they are quite firm, that they may retain 
 their shape; next put them into a stew-pan, wrapped 
 up with some bacon ; add a few bits of carrot, 
 an onion stuck with a clove, a little bay-leaf, thyme, 
 salt, and pepper. Put the knuckles to braize with 
 this ; when the whole has simmered gently on the 
 fire for an hour, drain the legs and the knuckles; 
 take off the thread, and stick the knuckle into the 
 large part of the leg, and it will represent exactly 
 the form of a duckling. Put under it a puree of 
 green peas in summer; and at other times any kind 
 of sauce, sharp or not. 
 
 The sauce tomata, or a poivrade , are very 
 good with this dish, which is a saving one. When 
 you use many fillets for a dinner, you should 
 contrive to do something with the legs. If you 
 are particular in binding the knuckle of fowl 
 when you put them in the braize, you will be sur¬ 
 prised how much it will resemble a duckling, when 
 stuck properly in the large part of the legs. 
 
 No. 35.— Legs of Fowl en Balotine. 
 
 Bone the legs of the fowl ; cut the knee entirely 
 off, and the leg just above the joint; then roll the 
 legs, and thrust the claws into the hole of the leg 
 bone : tie them up quite round, and put them be¬ 
 tween two plafonds, with a pretty heavy weight 
 over them, to give them a nice shape. When they 
 are become firm, mark them between layers of 
 bacon, and braize them in the common way: when 
 they are done, drain and glaze them. Send up 
 
200 
 
 with any sauce you may fancy. The love-apple, 
 or sharp sauce, will answer the purpose very well. 
 
 No. 36 .—Legs of Fowl d Orlie. 
 
 Bone the legs of several fowls, and set them to 
 be marinaded raw in an earthen pan, with the juice 
 of a lemon, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, salt 
 and pepper, &c. &c. When marinaded for three 
 hours, drain them: then beat the white of an egg, 
 mix a little flour with crumbs of bread, and dip 
 the legs first into the white of the egg, and then 
 into the flour and crumbs; next fry them, but 
 mind, your dripping must not be too hot, for if it 
 were so, the legs would get a colouring before they 
 were done through. Serve up with the brown 
 sharp sauce, or love-apple sauce. 
 
 This is a very excellent dish when you have had 
 a large dinner the day before; you trim and bone 
 these legs, and put them in the basin with marinade , 
 as before directed, but you must leave the skin very 
 large, and trim them very round, so as to give them 
 a good form; when fried, glaze them, and serve a 
 poivrade or tornata sauce under them. 
 
 No. 37 .—Legs of Fowl d la Dreux. 
 
 Bone the legs, fill up the vacuity with a force¬ 
 meat or quenelle; give the legs a round shape, 
 then lard the upper part with small slips of ham 
 mark them between layers of bacon, and braize 
 them as above. When they are done, glaze and 
 send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. 
 It is to be observed, however, that a glazed dish re¬ 
 quires a white sauce, that the glazing may appear 
 to greater advantage. These legs are to be put 
 into a saute- pan, on which you have spread layers 
 of bacon. You also put the same over the leo-s, 
 and cover the whole with the lid of a stew-pan, 
 
201 
 
 and over this put a heavy weight, to give the legs 
 a good shape. When they are become sufficiently 
 firm over a slow fire, or in the oven, take them 
 out and marie them the same as any other braize* 
 
 * The entries of legs of fowl are not in very great repute, 
 but they are a very great saving of expense, and nothing but 
 prejudice can object to them ; for when they are well made, 
 they are excellent food, and make a very good appearance on 
 table, as they can be served in so many different forms, and 
 with such variety of flavour. 
 
 K 3 
 
202 
 
 ciiap. ix. 
 
 entrees of fat chickens. 
 
 It is almost useless to describe what can be 
 made with fat chickens. Whatever can be made 
 with fowl, can also be made with chicken. The only 
 difference is in the length of time requisite for dress¬ 
 ing them, a large one necessarily requirino - more 
 time than a small one. 
 
 No. 1 .—Chickens a VIvoire. 
 
 Take two chickens of the same size and equally 
 white; pick them well and singe them ; then thrust 
 your fingers inside to pull out the breast-bone 
 Having mixed a little butter with the juice of half 
 a lemon, and some salt and pepper, introduce an 
 equal proportion of this mixture into the body of 
 each chicken, and bind them up in a good shape. 
 1 hen put them into an oval stew-pan, surrounded 
 with layers of bacon : next cut the juicy part of 
 a lemon, and cover the breasts of the chickens with 
 
203 
 
 thin slices of it and bacon. Pour some poele over 
 them. The chickens will be done in hall an hour’s 
 time, and retain their white colour. Drain them, 
 take off the packthread, and send them up with 
 the veloute, or bechamelle. 
 
 No. 2.— Chickens a la Vtileroi 
 
 Are dressed in the same manner as those above. 
 The sauce, however, is to be an aspic lie. The 
 aspic lie is the same sauce as the marechale; put 
 in a stew-pan three spoonsful of tarragon vine¬ 
 gar, let it reduce full half, then pour into it six 
 spoonsful of veloute , a little salt and pepper, the 
 yolks of two eggs, and mix this sauce very well. 
 Add to it a very small piece of good butter, and 
 work the sauce well, to make it as fine as possible. 
 Mark the chicken all over. 
 
 No. 3.— Chickens ci la Montmorenci. 
 
 Take two chickens of the same size, and equally 
 white; bind them up as above; next have some 
 boiling water, wherein you dip only the breasts of 
 the chickens, to make the flesh firm. Then lard 
 them the same as a fricandeau, and put them into 
 an oval stew-pan, surrounded with bacon ; though 
 there is not to be any over them, moisten with the 
 poele , or with some new broth, as old broth will 
 turn any thing red. A large fire is required over 
 the lid to seize the bacon ; which having acquired 
 a good colour, you remove the fire from over them, 
 and let the chickens boil gently for half an hour: 
 then drain and glaze them nicely, and serve up 
 with a ragout d la Jinanciere . Mind, they must 
 be well done and drained; if any blood should re¬ 
 main in them, the sauce would be spoiled. 
 
204 
 
 No. 4 .—Chickens d La Conde 
 
 Are to be dressed as above, but it is useless to 
 dip them into boiling water : slit them equally with 
 a penknife, and introduce between the slits thin 
 slices of truffles and of tongue d Vecarlate , cut like 
 
 a cock’s-comb ; then stew the chickens as 
 
 mentioned above, and serve up with the ragout d 
 V ALlemande. 
 
 No. 5 .—Chickens d la Turque. 
 
 Take two white chickens of the same size, empty 
 them, and dress them up as above. Then have 
 some rice well cleaned and blanched, and boil it in 
 some consomme. When sufficiently swelled and 
 very thick, season it well, and take one half of it, 
 which you put inside of the chickens; stuff them 
 as full as you possibly can, with the rump turned 
 inside, to prevent the rice from bursting out: then 
 spit the chickens, wrap them up in layers of bacon 
 and paper, and they wdl be done in one hour. 
 When done, lay them on the rice that remains, 
 into which you may pour four spoonsful of 
 bechamellc , and one spoonful of thick cream. Sea¬ 
 son the whole well. Mind that you have the in¬ 
 side of the chicken well washed with boiling water 
 before you put the rice in, otherwise it will be full 
 of scum, and will spoil the rice. 
 
 No. 6.—Chickens with Italian Paste. 
 
 I ake two fat pullets as above, dress them in the 
 like manner, but your Italian paste must be in a 
 state of readiness, and made very thick, as it has 
 less substance than rice: then stuff the chickens 
 
20 5 
 
 with part of the paste, and mix the remainder with 
 some bechamelle as above. 
 
 No. 7 .—Fat Pullets aux Nouilles. 
 
 Take a couple of fat pullets, which dress and 
 prepare as directed in No. 1, and stew them in the 
 same manner. The nouilles are made as follows : 
 take the yolks of four eggs, five spoonsful of flour, 
 a lump of butter of the size of two eggs, and a little 
 salt; make a paste, which you moisten with a little 
 water, yet let it be kept thick; work it hard with 
 your hand, and spread it on the pastry-table with 
 the rolling-pin; mind to powder a large quantity 
 of flour when you cut the paste into long bits, to 
 prevent their sticking to the pan: blanch the 
 nouilles in water with a little salt. Drain them, 
 throw them into cold water, and stew them in con¬ 
 somme ; when they are done, drain them again, 
 and toss them in a small quantity of A Hem and e, 
 or of veloute. You may also pour those sauces 
 over the chickens. The paste may be cut into 
 different shapes, as squares, lozenges, &c. &c. 
 Eminces, or blanquettes, agree very well with the 
 nouilles. 
 
 No. 8.— Chicke7is a la Tartare. 
 
 Take two very young chickens, singe and dress 
 them en poule, by which is meant, that you make 
 a hole above the joint of the leg, and thrust the 
 claws into those holes: then split them in two, 
 break the bones of the legs, and bone the backs and 
 breasts, leaving as few bones as you possibly can ; 
 then mould the chickens into a round shape ; sea¬ 
 son them with salt and pepper; take a brush 
 dipped into yolks of eggs, and brush the chickens 
 all over; next dip them into crumbs of bread; 
 have some melted butter ready, dip them into it, 
 
206 
 
 and then into crumbs of bread again, and roll them 
 equally; lay them on something flat, to give them 
 a good shape; half an hour before you send them 
 up, broil them on a clear fire; serve up with 
 gravy, or an Italienne. Observe, that the legs 
 are a long time boiling ; ascertain if they are done 
 before you send them up. 
 
 No. 9.— Fat Pullets d la Givry. 
 
 Dress two young pullets, and stew them as 
 directed at No. 1. The givry is made in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner : take some small white onions, 
 which you cut into rings ; select them all of the 
 same size, which you stew in a small quantity of 
 consomme ; take care your onions are not too 
 much done, for they would break. Then spread 
 these rings at an equal distance over the breasts of 
 the chickens. Have a verd de persil (see Sauces) 
 ready, and put a little in the centre of each ring; 
 the remainder you mix with some sauce tournee , 
 well reduced, and well seasoned; add a little 
 lemon-juice, and a little Cayenne, and pour this 
 sauce under the chickens. 
 
 No. 10.— Chickens d la Iiarbarie with Truffles. 
 
 Dress two young chickens as at No. 1. Cut 
 small pieces of truffles in the shape of nails, make 
 a few holes in the breasts of the chickens with a 
 pen-knife, and fill them up equally with the pre¬ 
 pared truffles. Then cover the chickens with 
 layers of bacon, and stew them with a poele, as at 
 No. 1, and serve up with an Italienne with truffles. 
 
 No. 11.— Chickens d la Cardinal. 
 
 Take a couple of fat chickens, very white, but 
 mind that the skin is not injured, and pick them 
 with the utmost care. Have some of the spawn of 
 lobster ready pounded and mixed with a littl e farce 
 d quenelle; introduce the handle of a small knife 
 
207 
 
 between the skin and the flesh, and thus separate 
 the skin without tearing it; next introduce the red 
 quenelles between the skin and the flesh very 
 evenly; then truss the chickens in the common 
 way, and poele them as usual, but do not do them 
 too much; let them stew gently, and pour under 
 them a love-apple sauce, or a poivrade , or a pluche. 
 
 ISo. 12. Fillets offat Pullets a la Roy ale. 
 
 If you have a large dinner to serve, take the fil¬ 
 lets of four chickens, and thus you obtain eight large 
 fillets, and a similar number of filets mignons ;* 
 flatten them with the handle of a knife that has been 
 dipped in cold water, to prevent the knife breaking 
 the fillets or sticking to them. Then use the knife to 
 pull off the upper skin, which is very tough ; take 
 out the sinews from the filets mignons, put them into 
 a saute- pan, after having dipped them into butter ; 
 then powder them over with salt only, pepper being 
 intended merely for highly seasoned dishes, but 
 disagreeable to a dainty palate. When you are 
 going to serve them, sautez them hastily, drain the 
 butter, pour over them two or three spoonsful of 
 becharnelle, and one spoonful of thick cream, which 
 you keep stirring for a short time ; then send up, 
 dressed en miroton, with the ragout d la royale 
 in the centre, after having dished the fillets in a 
 circle. The ragout a la royale is white, and 
 must be composed of the following articles : cocks’- 
 combs, kidneys, mushrooms, small quenelles, and 
 truffles, if you have any. Observe, that the sauce 
 must be well seasoned.^ 
 
 * Filets mignons are the inside small fillets. 
 
 f It is necessary to observe to the practitioner, that ragouts 
 are few in number, viz. “ La Financiered “ La Toulouse," 
 “ L' Allemande," “ La Royale ,” “ La Godanl and “ La 
 Chambord .'' 1 Each of these ragouts have their different cha¬ 
 racteristics, and vary as well in appearance as in taste. 
 
208 
 
 No. 13.— Cutlets of Chicken & TFpigramme. 
 
 Take the fillets of five pullets, and pare them 
 well ; then take the small bone of the pinion, scrape 
 it well, and stick it dexterously into the point of 
 the fillets; season with salt and pepper. Brush 
 them over with the yolks of two eggs, then dip 
 them into crumbs of bread, next into some melted 
 butter, and crumbs of bread again ; let them be 
 covered entirely. Broil them exactly at dinner¬ 
 time. Then put the flets mignons in scollops, in 
 a sauce a blanquette, with mushrooms, into the 
 middle of the dish, and put the cutlets round the dish 
 and send up. On other occasions you may sautez 
 the filets mignons entire, and dish them between 
 the cutlets, with a thin Allemande. You may put 
 in this scollop some slices of truffles sautez , with 
 the inside filets , called filets mignon. 
 
 No. 14.— Fillets of fat Chicken , au Supreme. 
 
 Take three small fat fowls, very white; clean 
 and pick them well, scald the legs in boiling water ; 
 singe the chickens over the flame of a stove, then 
 cut the fillets from the breast; flatten and trim the 
 six large fillets: take the six small ones, and make 
 three of them by sticking two together; lay them 
 in a saute- pan, and cover them with melted’butter 
 and fine salt. Just at dinner-time put the saute- 
 pan on the stove, and sautez them on both sides; 
 when they are firm, they are done; drain the 
 butter, but preserve the gravy at the bottom of the 
 pan ; add to it three spoonsful of bechamelle well 
 seasoned, and move the pan over the fire without 
 letting the sauce boil : the fillets will not be good 
 if they have had the least boil. Dress the nine 
 fillets with a bit of bread fried of a nice colour 
 between each fillet, and pour the sauce over them ; 
 but not on the fried bread, as that must be crisp. 
 
209 
 
 N.B.— Use the backs and legs of the fowls to 
 make the consomme , or soup a, La reine. 
 
 No. 15.— Fillets of fat Pullets sautez a la Lucullus . 
 
 Take the fillets of four fat pullets, take off the 
 filets mignons , and pull the sinews from them : 
 flatten them Avith the back of a knife, and mark 
 them in melted butter. The larger fillets are to 
 be garnished with truffles, cut into small round 
 slices, as in the conties. Next make three round 
 slits in each fillet, and introduce the sliced truffles 
 within each slit, though not so far as to reach 
 through the fillets, which would break them. When 
 your fillets have been garnished, mark them in 
 melted butter, and sautez them in the usual way ; 
 mind, they must be only underdone, by which is 
 meant, that they are to retain somewhat of the 
 reddish hue; but as they are to be kept hot with 
 the sauce, they will soon be thoroughly done, and 
 are always tender. 
 
 N.B. —For the sauce: strip the legs and loins 
 of the chickens, wash the inside of the lungs clean, 
 and put them into a small stew-pan with a few bits 
 of ham, half a shalot, and the parings of the truf¬ 
 fles ; let the whole sweat for one hour, moistened 
 with a spoonful or two of consomme. When the 
 meat is done through, pour over it some boiling 
 hot consomme , and let it boil for about an hour 
 again, then drain the whole on a double silk sieve; 
 reduce the consomme to a light glaze: this will 
 serve you for different purposes. When you have 
 sautez the fillets, drain the butter; take four spoons¬ 
 ful of bechamelle , a little of the glaze of fowl and 
 truffles, and a spoonful of thick cream; keep stir¬ 
 ring the fillets in the sauce, and dish them alter¬ 
 nately, a large fillet and a filet mignon. Pour the 
 sauce over the parts that have no truffles on them, 
 
210 
 
 and that are not glazed; If you dress the dish with 
 care, it will be very good. This dish will be found 
 also under the head “ Game,” It requires very 
 
 f reat attention to be made in perfection. The 
 llets must be sliced at three different places, as 
 
 follows, When the truffles are put into it 
 
 and dressed, it has a charming effect. 
 
 Be careful to have in a dish sauce sufficient to 
 eat with every fillet. 
 
 No. 16. — Scollops of Chicken , with Truffles. 
 
 See Scollops of Fozvl, No. 25, p. 193. You must 
 always reduce to a glaze a little consomme , into 
 which you have put the parings of the truffles. 
 When reduced, strain it through a sieve, that the 
 parings may not injure the sauce. Then use a 
 small quantity of it with the sauce of the saute , and 
 add a little cream to whiten the sauce. 
 
 No 17 .—Scollops of fat Pullets a la Conti , with 
 
 Truffles. 
 
 The same as above, with the difference only that 
 you preserve the filets mignons, which you garnish 
 with truffles, and mark them in a saute-pan, in 
 order to be enabled to give them the shape either 
 of garlands, crescents, &c. &c. Butter the saute- 
 pan, and put in the filets mignons that you have 
 larded with bacon : divide the thickest part of the 
 fillets, preserve the right side point, turn over the 
 two parts that you have divided, and give them 
 the shape of a dart or arrow. Another time you 
 may convert them into the shape of an S, and dish 
 them round your scollops, which are dressed in the 
 middle in the shape of an obelisk. 
 
No. 18. —Scollops of Chicken a VEssence of Cu - 
 
 cumbers. 
 
 Mark the fillets of four fat pullets in a saute- 
 pan with some melted butter, and a little salt over 
 them : cover them with a round piece of paper till 
 dinner-time. The sauce is to be made in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner : take eight very green cucumbers, 
 cut off the ends, and apply the tip of your tongue 
 to taste them : if they should taste bitter, do not 
 use them. Slice those only that are good about 
 the size of a half-crown piece, take out all the seed, 
 and put the parings, with a few minced cucumbers, 
 to sweat in a little melted butter till they are 
 melted ; marinade the large slices with a little salt 
 and vinegar, to draw the water from them, then 
 lay those slices on a clean towel to drain, and put 
 them into a stew-pan with four spoonsful of sauce 
 tournee , a small bit of sugar, a little salt, and let 
 them stew gently. When they are done, drain 
 them on a hair sieve; then mix the whole of that 
 sauce with the parings, and let it boil gently, 
 in order to extract all the butter. When there is 
 none left, reduce the puree till it becomes thick, 
 then mix three or four spoonsful of bechamelle , 
 and strain the whole through a tammy, like a 
 puree. When dinner-time is come, put the fillet 
 over the stove ; after having sautez them, drain 
 and scollop them, and put into the sauce, which 
 must always be kept very thick. The moment 
 you are going to send up, drain the cucumbers 
 in a hair sieve, and put them with the scollops: 
 mix a little cream with the scollops; taste whether 
 they are well seasoned, and send up either with or 
 without conties, according to your own taste. This 
 dish should be rather sweet. When you have no 
 
212 
 
 sauce tournee , fry the cucumbers in butter. Spread 
 flour over them, moisten with very good consomme, 
 adding a bundle of parsley and green onions, a 
 little sugar, and proceed as above. If you have 
 no bechamelle , add three spoonsful of very thick 
 cream which has been boiled, and keep the sauce 
 thick, as it is easily made thin with a little con¬ 
 somme or broth. 
 
 No. 19.— Wings of Chicken a la Marechale. 
 
 See wings of fowl it la St. Laurent , No. 2J, 
 page 191. 
 
 No. 20.— Blanquette of Chicken a la Turque. 
 
 Take a cold fowl or chicken and cut it into scol¬ 
 lops, in the shape of half-crown pieces : have ready 
 some rice, well washed, and which has been boiled 
 in rich broth or consomme; let the rice be thick, 
 make it richer with a few spoonsful of bechamelle; 
 dish it en buisson ; put the scollops of chicken en 
 miroton up to the top of the buisson; keep the 
 whole hot, well covered, and when ready to send 
 up, mask with a sauce a blanquette , or a becha¬ 
 melle. 
 
 To this dish I prefer the following. 
 
 No. 21.— Saute of Fillets of fat Pullets d la 
 
 Turque. 
 
 Take the fillets of three fat pullets, tear off the 
 skin, and cut the sinews out of the filets rnignons ; 
 stick two together, and then you will have nine 
 fillets: put the whole into a saute-^sen, with some 
 melted butter, and a little salt (never put any 
 pepper into white made dishes), cover them with 
 paper to prevent the dust. At dinner-time have 
 some rice ready that has swelled in rich consomme ; 
 
2l3 
 
 the rice must be kept thick: mix two spoonsful of 
 bechamelle with it, and a small bit of very fresh 
 butter. This rice is dressed en buisson in the 
 centre of the saute, which is made in the same 
 manner as the saute au supreme , with the Jilets 
 round it. Keep some of the rice a little thicker 
 than the rest, mould in a spoon as many spoonsful 
 as the fillets ; dress them between, and keep the 
 dish very hot. When the dinner is called for, 
 sauce the fillets and the rice. This latter method 
 is preferable. 
 
 No. 22.— Saute of Fillets of fat Pullets , sautez 
 au Supreme. 
 
 See No. 22, page 191, Fillets of fowl au su¬ 
 preme. 
 
 No. 23.— Wings offat Pullets a la Dauphine. 
 
 See No. 30, page 196, Wings of fowl a la Dau¬ 
 phine. 
 
 No. 24.— Boudins of Fillets of Chicken a la Heine. 
 
 See No. 31, page 197. 
 
 No. 25. — Boudins of Chicken d la Richelieu. 
 
 Look into the Chapter of Farces , for the method 
 of making quenelles. The boudins d la Richelieu , 
 are the same thing as a farce a quenelles , made of 
 either veal, or fowl, rabbits, whitings, carp, &c. 
 Sweat some white onions that are cut into small 
 dice or fillet ; when well done, drain them in a 
 hair sieve, in order that there may not be the least 
 particle of butter; work the farce with a wooden 
 spoon before you put the onions in, to prevent 
 tneir breaking, for it is requisite that the onions 
 should remain entire in the boudins d la Richelieu. 
 Next let this farce stand to cool. When it is quite 
 
214 
 
 cold, roll it in the shape of a rolling-pin of the 
 length of the dish, and poach it in the following 
 manner. After having rolled the boudins, rub 
 with butter a stew-pan large enough to contain the 
 boudins with ease ; lay them over the butter ; pour 
 some boiling Avater with a little salt into the stew- 
 pan, and let them boil gently, till you see they are 
 swelled properly; then drain and let them cool. 
 When cold, mould them of an equal size, then dip 
 them into yolks of eggs well beaten, with a little 
 salt, and then slightly into crumbs of bread, next 
 into eggs again, and once more slightly into crumbs 
 of bread : then fry them on a clear fire ; they only 
 want to get a fine colour: drain them with a clean 
 towel, dish them, and pour over them an Italienne. 
 Some people make use of the sauce d'attelets ; in 
 that case it must be poured hot over the boudins. 
 When they are cold, and the sauce begins to cool, 
 put some equally with your knife on each square. 
 Dip them into crumbs of bread. Take care that 
 you make them into regular squares; then pre¬ 
 pare an omelette , by which is meant yolks and 
 whites of eggs, beat up with a little salt. The 
 boudins are to be dipped only once into this pre¬ 
 paration ; give them a good colour by frying in 
 very hot dripping; you may serve them some¬ 
 times with crumbs of bread, and sometimes white. 
 Epicures will prefer them white, without the crumbs 
 of bread, just at the instant they are poached. 
 
 No. 26.— Boudins , or Fziddings a la Sefton. 
 
 Make some quenelles of fowl, in which you in¬ 
 troduce some essence of mushroom, which mix with 
 the farce in the same manner as the boudms a la 
 Richelieu ; then poach the boudins. When done, 
 drain and put them in the dish ; have some becha ■ 
 melle very thick ; mask the boudins with the thick 
 
215 
 
 sauce, and put over each of them the small fillets 
 larded , which you must prepare in the following 
 manner. In order to give the larded fillets a 
 proper shape, take a piece of carrot, or a bit of 
 bread of the same shape and size of the boudin , 
 put over the carrot a thin slice of fat bacon, to’ 
 prevent the fillets from smelling of it; bind the 
 fillets over the carrot, and put them into the oven 
 till they are firm ; then glaze them, and put them 
 over the boudin after having poured the sauce 
 over, which must be thick ; when the boudins are 
 covered, put a spoonful of consomme and some of 
 th e juice of mushrooms to make the sauce thinner, 
 and put it under. 
 
 No. 27.— Quenelles of Chicken with clarified 
 Consomme. 
 
 The quenelles are to be rolled much about the 
 size of a thick cork, and are to be put into a stew- 
 pan rubbed with butter, as directed above. You 
 must have ready some fowl consomme very clear, 
 yet rich : drain "the quenelles on a clear cloth, put 
 them into a silver stew-pan, and pour the consomme 
 gently over them, that they may not break, and 
 that the consomme may remain clear. 
 
 Observation. This dish is seldom called for in 
 England. The other quenelles are made in the 
 same manner, but only of various sizes. There 
 are quenelles called a la cuilhere , or spoon, which 
 are prepared in the following manner : take two 
 spoons, one of which is always to be kept in hot 
 water; fill the other with seme farce, which you 
 shape with a knife: when your quenelle is quite 
 round, with the other spoon you take it out, and 
 put it over some butter in a stew-pan, and so on 
 with the rest. This manner of preparing quenelles 
 
216 
 
 is also practised in dressing entrees of fish. The 
 farce a quenelles not only makes good entrees, but 
 is indispensably necessary in the making of la 
 Chambord , la financiere, le ragout d VAllemande , 
 la Godard , la Toulouse, and all garnitures in 
 general. The quenelles are a branch of cookery, 
 which the author would select to try the knowledge 
 of a cook, many cooks do not personally finish 
 these dishes, but leave their attendant the care of 
 them, by which means they are seldom well done. 
 
 No. 28.— Risolles of Fowls. 
 
 Risolles were formerly made with a farce, fine 
 either of fowl, or rabbit. (See Farces.) Spread 
 some feuilletagef and lay at equal distances, balls 
 of the farce. Then use the paste-brush over the 
 paste, round the farce , and fold the paste, which 
 you press all round, in order to make the borders 
 stick close together. Then run a videlle goud- 
 ronnee round the paste, so as to cut the risolles in 
 the shape of a crescent. When you have about 
 two dozen, fry them and send them up with fried 
 parsley in the middle. Now the risolles are com¬ 
 monly made in the following manner : have some 
 minced fowl, that is, the white fleshy part, which 
 you put into a veloute reduced; give it a good 
 seasoning, and then let it cool. When cold, divide 
 it into small balls, and wrap them up in paste, fry 
 them, and serve up garnished with fried parsley. 
 
 No. 29. — Croquettes of Chickens au Veloute. 
 
 Take the flesh of roast chickens, which vou cut 
 into small dice of an equal size; put them into a 
 bechamelle reduced, then let them cool ; next 
 
 * Feuilletage, or puff-paste. 
 
217 
 
 mould them of the shape of a cork ; dip them into 
 an omelette , and then into crumbs of bread; lastly, 
 fry them till of a light brown, and serve up with 
 some fried parsley of a good green colour. This 
 requiring a quantity of white flesh of chickens, is 
 termed most naturally an entree de dessert e, rem¬ 
 nants of cold chicken. The croquettes are better 
 when made with some of the remnants of fowl, 
 and sweetbreads. A good cook will never prepare 
 croquettes , except he have something left in the 
 larder, as it requires many little pieces of fowl; if he 
 happen to have them in the larder, they may be 
 made at a trifling expense. 
 
 No. 30. Fricassee of Chickens au nciturel. 
 
 _ Take a couple of fat chickens, empty them, and 
 singe them till the flesh gets firm, in order that 
 they may cut better, and the skin may not be in¬ 
 jured, and cover every part of the chickens : some 
 persons neglect this operation, but the flesh of 
 chickens intended for a fricassee or a raw mari¬ 
 nade, must be made firm. Next carve your 
 chickens as neatly as possible, and each will supply 
 you with ten pieces. Take out the lungs, and the 
 spungy substance that is within the loins, wash the 
 members in luke-warm water ; let them disgorge 
 all the blood, and blanch them in boiling water, 
 that the flesh may be made firm, and that you may 
 give the members a good shape ; drain them from 
 that water, and put them into cold water; when 
 cooled, trim them and put them in a stew-pan with 
 a small bit of butter, till you have the consomme 
 ready to moisten the fricassee in the following 
 manner ; put the trimming of the chicken in the 
 water, wherein you have blanched the chicken, to 
 this add the necks, the four legs, some parsley, 
 green onions, a clove, a few bits of mace, one small 
 
 L 
 
218 
 
 shalot, and a bay-leaf; let these stew well for one hour, 
 and use them to moisten th e fricassee. When the 
 chickens have been fried lightly, dust a little salt 
 and flour over them; moisten with the liquor they 
 were blanched in. Let them boil for about three 
 quarters of an hour : skim off all the butter and 
 scum ; then put the members into another stew- 
 pan, reduce the sauce, and strain it through a 
 tammy over the chickens. This stew-pan is to be 
 put into a bain marie till dinner-time; then 
 thicken the fricassee with the yolks of four eggs 
 and a little cream : it is to be observed, that if th^ 
 fricassee does not boil, the thickening will not be 
 thoroughly done. Some people add a little lemon- 
 juice, but others do not use any, and they are 
 right, for lemon is admissible only in fricassees of 
 a high relish. It must be particularly observed, 
 that when you put lemon, you must put more 
 seasoning, as salt, pepper, &c. 
 
 No. 31.—A? * icassee of Chickens a la Paysanne.* 
 
 This fricassee is to be prepared in the same way 
 as that above, only boil four onions in it, which, 
 however, are to be taken out again. Take about 
 three dozen of small white onions of an equal size, 
 peel without injuring them, blanch them in water 
 first, next boil them in a little consomme with a 
 little sugar and salt; they must simmer only. When 
 done, leave them in the liquor. When it is dinner¬ 
 time, put some chopped parsley into the sauce after 
 having thickened it. Toss the fricassee gently, in 
 
 * Fricassee of chicken is a dish of as frequent occurrence as 
 bread; if it is well done, it may be given for a trial dinner ; 
 very few cooks are able to make a good fricassee. The author 
 considers this dish the most wholesome and the least expensive 
 of any, as it requires only water to make it well. 
 
219 
 
 order that all the members may be equally covered 
 with the parsley, and dish it: then put the onions 
 on a cloth to drain, that they may not thin the 
 sauce, and put them with the sauce over the meat. 
 Lemon in this fricassee is requisite, and you must 
 give more seasoning to it than to that above ; you 
 must also add a little ground pepper, or Cayenne 
 to it. The small onions should be boiled in a little 
 of the sauce separate, and when they are suffi¬ 
 ciently done, pour the sauce to the other, to be 
 reduced; keep the small onions in the stew-pan 
 covered, and put them in the sauce, well drained, 
 the moment you are about to serve. 
 
 No. 32 .—Fricassee a la Chevaliere. 
 
 This is prepared in the same manner as No. 30, 
 with this only difference, that you lard the fillets ; 
 which is a method not approved of by the author. 
 You must cut off th e filets rntgnons and the wings; 
 the filets mignons only are to be larded, but keep 
 the wings entire, and make the fricassee as usual: 
 when it is dished with the sauce, lay the four filets 
 mignons on each corner of the dish, with sweet¬ 
 breads of lamb in the middle ; by this means the 
 members are all left entire except the breast. The 
 small fillets are to be done by putting them into a 
 buttered saute- pan; sprinkle a little salt over them, 
 and put them into the oven ; as soon as they are 
 white, they are done; glaze them of a nice colour, 
 and serve up. The sweetbreads of lamb may be 
 done the same, but they are longer doing. When 
 you prepare a grand dinner, take the inside fillets 
 of four chickens larded, and turn them round like 
 a ring over the buttered saw^e-pan; when done, put 
 the round one over the leg, and the four others 
 between ; by this you have the fricassee complete 
 
 l 2 
 
220 
 
 in all its members, and the dish will be better gar¬ 
 nished. 
 
 No. 33.—Fricassee of Chickens d la St. Lambert. 
 
 Make a broth of all sorts of vegetables.* Mark 
 the fricassee as above, moisten with the vegetable 
 broth, and proceed as usual. This fricassee instead 
 of being white, is rather of a brown colour. 
 
 No. 34.— Fricassee of Chickens d la Dauphine. 
 
 If this is made on purpose for the day, the sauce 
 must be very thick; let it cool, next pour the sauce 
 equally over each member, dip them into crumbs of 
 bread, equalize your pieces, and dip them into an 
 omelette , and next into crumbs of bread a seeond 
 time. Fry them till of a light brown, and under 
 them serve a veloute. This dish is also an entree of 
 desserte. When a fricassee -of chickens has been 
 taken down untouched, serve it up again the next 
 day in this manner. 
 
 No. 35.— Marinade of Chickens d la St. Florentin. 
 
 Take two very young fat chickens, singe them 
 till they are firm ; cut them in pieces as if for a 
 fricassee; put them into an earthen-pot with a few 
 leaves of parsley, a few slices of onion, a little salt 
 and pepper; then squeeze a lemon or two over the 
 limbs, and marinade them for a couple of hours. 
 The marinade is to be stirred every now and then. 
 At dinner-time drain the chickens, beat the whites 
 of two eggs, and dip the pieces first into it, next 
 into flour; cover them all over, that they may be 
 made of a good equal colour; then fry them, but 
 
 * Ttie vegetables are carrots, turnips, onions, celery, par- 
 sley, Sec. See. 
 
221 
 
 take care that the dripping is not too hot, for fear 
 the chickens should be too brown and not done 
 through ; drain them on a clean towel, and serve 
 under them a poivrade, or love-apple sauce. 
 
 No. 36.— Friteau of fat Chickens. 
 
 This dish is prepared as that above, but is to be 
 garnished with a few fried eggs. Serve up with 
 love-apple sauce. You must select very fresh eggs, 
 and fry them in sweet salad oil. Observe, that you 
 must use very little oil, otherwise the eggs will 
 break to pieces ; put a little oil into the corner of 
 the omelette pan, and fry them one by one of a very 
 good colour, and not too much ; then glaze them, 
 and garnish with them. 
 
 No. 37.— Fricassee of Chickens a la Bardoux. 
 
 This is prepared as that of No. 30. After 
 having thickened your fricassee, take a few onions 
 cut into dice. Sweat them in a little butter, but 
 take care they do not get brown ; drain them, put 
 them into the sauce, and cover the fricassee with 
 them. 
 
 No. 38.— The Capilotade of Chickens. 
 
 This is an entree of desserte. Take two chickens 
 that have been either roasted or poele, cut them as 
 for eating, flay them and mark them in a stew-pan 
 like a salmi: now pour a brown Italienne over 
 them, and let them simmer gently over a slow fire, 
 that the sauce may not stick to the pan. Then 
 have thin slices of bread cut into the shape of flat 
 pears, that you fry in butter till thev are of a light 
 brown : dish them between the members, glaze the 
 fried bread, and pour the Italienne over the 
 chickens only. 
 
222 
 
 No. 39 -—Members of Chickens an Soleil, or Mari¬ 
 nade cuite. 
 
 This is also an entree of desserte The mari¬ 
 nade cuite is to be prepared in the following man¬ 
 ner : put a little butter into a stew-pan, with four 
 shalots, an onion, and a carrot cut into dice, a 
 little parsley, a few roots of ditto, a bay-leaf, a 
 little thyme, clove, and some spice. Let the whole 
 lay on the fire till the vegetables are of a light 
 brown; then moisten with a little vinegar and 
 w r ater. When the marinade is done enough, sea¬ 
 son it, give it a high relish, then pour it over the 
 members of the chickens; let the whole boil for a 
 minute or two, and let it cool till dinner-time ; 
 drain the members, dip them into proper paste, 
 (see batter,) and fry them. Serve under them a 
 brown poivrade. 
 
 No. 40 .—Marinade of Chickens a la Orlie. 
 
 This is the same as the St. Florentin , No. 35, 
 with the only difference, that you mix a few 
 crumbs of bread with the flour, into which the 
 limbs are to be dipped. 
 
 No. 41 .—Minced Chickens a la Polonoise. 
 
 Take the fleshy part of roasted chickens, chop 
 it very small, and put the whole into a well-sea¬ 
 soned bechamelle. Send up in a vol au vent, or a 
 bord de plat, with poached eggs over; if you have 
 a deep dish, send them with fried bread round 
 the dish only. 
 
 This entree is made when you have a blanquette , 
 or saute left: chop altogether, truffles, chickens, 
 &c., and denominate it, hachi de volatile, either 
 ii au truffle ,” or “ a la Polonoise 
 
223 
 
 No. 42.— Blanquette of Chickens with green Peas . 
 
 This dish is made out of roast chickens that 
 have already been served up, otherwise it would 
 be very expensive, as it would require five chickens 
 at least to make it, and it would be but a small 
 dish after all. Cut scollops of chickens as large as 
 possible, give them nearly a round shape ; but it 
 matters not whether they are of different sizes: 
 put them into the sauce d blanquette as directed, 
 with white peas, but not tiff you have thickened the 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 43.— Souffle of Chickens a la Creme. 
 
 This dish is also made of the remnants of roasted 
 chickens; take off* the white flesh, and mince it 
 very small, and pound it in a mortar with a little 
 bechamelle , and a good lump of fresh butter, and 
 salt and pepper; with this, mix the yolks of four 
 eggs. Strain the whole through a tammy, or a 
 hair sieve ; then beat the white of five eggs till 
 made in a single body; mix these with the former 
 preparation, and put the whole in the dish d souf- 
 Jler , or in a croutade that has been raised like the 
 crust of a pate chaud. It will be done in a quarter 
 of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the 
 quantity. It is to be observed, that if the oven is 
 too hot, the outside of the souffle will be burnt, 
 although the inside is not done enough. This, 
 therefore, must be carefully attended to. 
 
 No. 44.— Gratin of Fillets of Chickens with 
 
 Veloute. 
 
 This is likewise an entree of deskerte; mince 
 the flesh of cold roasted chickens, which you put 
 into a veloute well reduced ; then make a border 
 to a dish, if you are without a deep one, about an 
 
224 
 
 inch thick, and put the minced meat in the middle. 
 Your mince must be thick, and levelled with a 
 knife ; dust it over with crumbs of bread ; pour 
 some drops of clarified butter over the crumbs, 
 then throw some more crumbs over, and again 
 some clarified butter and crumbs of bread. Then 
 give a colouring with the salamander , which you 
 must hold at a distance, otherwise it would spoil 
 the colour, which must be acquired gradually. 
 Next cut pieces of bread in balls, and in the shape 
 of corks, fry them in butter, with which alternately 
 garnish your gratin all round, and serve up quite 
 hot. Before you put the mince, pour some of the 
 sauce into the dish, to reduce to gratin. 
 
 No. 45 .—Galantine offal Chickens. 
 
 Take a nice fleshy chicken, which empty and 
 pick nicely. When picked neatly, bone it without 
 injuring the flesh. Take some slips of ham and 
 some truffles, which cut into bits of the same thick¬ 
 ness at least, if you cannot make them of the same 
 length; cut the flesh of the chickens into fillets, 
 and add a few slices of veal ; of these form a kind 
 of bed, in such a manner as that, when they are 
 cut, the slices may be chequered; season with all 
 sorts of spices, salt, &c., then close the skin of the 
 chicken, sew up the back, and give it a nice shape 
 before you put it into the stew-pan. You must 
 have some calf’s-foot jelly ready, for the chicken is 
 much sooner done than the calf’s-foot; then mark 
 the chicken in a stew-pan, and cover it with layers 
 of bacon; season it with salt and pepper, a 
 bunch of parsley and small onions, some thyme, a 
 bay-leaf, a clove, a little spice, a few carrots, a 
 couple of onions, and some slices of veal; then 
 mix a little broth and a small quantity of the jelly. 
 The chicken must not boil above an hour. 
 
225 
 
 Then take it off the fire, and let it cool in the 
 liquor, that the slices may stick together by means 
 of the jelly, for, were this neglected, the galantine 
 would break to pieces on being cut. If you send 
 it up hot, you may pour over it such sauce as you 
 think proper; but it must be a brown sauce, or 
 sorrel, or onions made brown in an Espagnole: 
 ho wever, it is much better to serve a galantine 
 cold with jelly ; take some of the liquor, beat the 
 white of two or three eggs, which mix with the cold 
 jelly after having skimmed off the fat; then again 
 put the whole on the fire, and keep stirring till the 
 liquor is white; then let it boil gently ; next take 
 the jelly off the fire, and lay it aside with a cover 
 and fire over it: when quite clear, strain it through 
 a cloth and let it cool, to be used when wanted. 
 If you serve the jelly cold, season it with more salt 
 and pepper, as above-mentioned. 
 
 No. 46.— Boudins of Chickens a la Ude. 
 
 Make these boudins with quenelles , like those a la 
 Richelieu: dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry 
 them to a light brown : make on the top an oblong 
 square opening, empty the boudins , taking care to 
 preserve, however, a coat thick enough to admit 
 a salpicon of chickens, truffles, and mushrooms, 
 cut into small dice, and thrown into a well-seasoned 
 bechamelle ; take six filets mignons, as three are 
 wanted for each boudin: give them the shape of 
 the handle of a basket, after having larded them 
 with bacon, or decorated them en conti , as it 
 is called. Then take a very large carrot, cut it 
 of the same size as the puddings, wrap it up in 
 thin layers of bacon, put th e filets mignons over 
 the carrot, and dust a little salt over them: then 
 put the whole into an oven; do not let it be too 
 much done; but of a light brown only. Glaze 
 
 L 3 
 
226 
 
 them when ready to send up to the dinner; pour 
 the salpicon into the puddings with the sham 
 basket handles at an equal distance over the pud¬ 
 dings : mind, the fillets are not to be thrust in too 
 far, that they may really look like basket handles. 
 This dish is intended for a grand dinner, when 
 common dishes are not to make their appearance. 
 
 No. 47.— Grenade of Fillets of Chicken. 
 
 You must have a mould ribbed like a melon ; 
 cut very thin layers of bacon ; line the mould with 
 them: then take fillets of chicken larded with 
 bacon, and others decorated with truffles. Have 
 sweetbreads of lamb already done, one of which 
 put between each rib, and the thickest part of the 
 filets mignons. When you have thus arranged 
 alternately one fillet larded, and another decorated 
 with truffles, cover the whole of your fillets with 
 a farce d quenelles. Put a thick salpicon in the 
 centre, and cover it with the farce : stick it with 
 force-meat, then put the mould au bain marie , or 
 in the oven, in order to poach the whole at once; 
 next turn the' grenade on a dish d entrees, dry 
 the larded slices with the salamander , and glaze 
 them. When the fillets or slices are of a light 
 brown, uncover the rest, glaze them slightly, and 
 serve them with an Espagnole.* 
 
 No. 48.— Turbans of Fillets of Chickens d la 
 
 Sultane. 
 
 Take th e filets mignons of chickens, lard them 
 with bacon ; have ready a. farce a quenelles , rather 
 thick, which should be kept in ice, that it may 
 acquire substance, and be more easily worked ; cut 
 
 * The grenade is likewise a dish for grand dinners, and is 
 excellent when well dressed. 
 
a large piece of bread, which cover with thin slices 
 of bacon; put the bread in the middle of the dish, 
 then lay the farce d quenelles all round, of about 
 three inches in height; stick the fillets in the 
 farce d quenelles; they are not to be stuck per¬ 
 pendicularly, though at equal distances, leaving a 
 separation between each fillet for the reception of 
 cocks 1 kidneys. These are to be put in only when 
 you are going to send up: cover your dish with 
 an earthen pot, or a lid that closes hermetically. 
 The turban is to be put into the oven, and when 
 done, glaze the fillets with the salamander. Make 
 small holes for the admission of the cock’s kidneys, 
 which must be very white, and made to resemble 
 so many pearls. If you have nothing to cover 
 the dish, use layers of bacon ; but a plain cover is 
 preferable, as it is free from fat, and the quenelles 
 are better and more easily poached. 
 
 Take out the large piece of bread ; drain the 
 fat off by means of crumbs of bread ; and put into 
 the centre of the dish a blanquette of chickens. (See 
 Blanquette.) When in the season of truffles, gar¬ 
 nish alternately with a perle or kidney, and a ball 
 made out of a truffle, ready done; and then put 
 scollops with truffles in the middle. A better me¬ 
 thod is now adopted, and here recommended. Have 
 a sweetmeat-pot, buttered, and put it in the middle 
 of the crust. You must make the crust with some 
 remnants of paste, filled up with flour, and cake 
 a little, to make it firm. Then put the pot in the 
 middle, garnish all round with the quenelles , and 
 stick the fillet as directed above. This method 
 will be found easy, and when the turban is done 
 in the oven, take off the pot and put the ragout 
 in its room, but mind to drain all the fat, and 
 make this dish very neat. 
 
228 
 
 Observations to the Cootc .—The author has in 
 many instances altered clarified butter, by melted 
 butter; but you must understand, that butter 
 must be melted only, as, when you let it be quite 
 clarified, it tastes greasy, and when it is only melted, 
 the butter-milk goes down, and you use the butter 
 w ith advantage, as you may use it several times, 
 either to fry croutons , or for crumbs of bread, &c. 
 
229 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES, YOUNG AND OLD. 
 
 No. 1, Whole Partridges d V Espacjnole. 
 
 It will be necessary to premise, in treating of 
 game, that partridges in particular should be se¬ 
 lected of the very young birds, the old ones being 
 ot no use in cookery. To demonstrate their in¬ 
 feriority, a young bird in Paris will fetch three 
 shillings, while the other is not worth one The 
 only way of using the old birds, is to put them 
 with cabbages or purees of lentiles. They are 
 good for consomme , and glaze of game, but are too 
 tough for any thing fine. Young ones, in general, 
 have yellowish claws; but it will sometimes happen 
 that the claws and legs are of a grey, or even of 
 a bluish colour, and yet they may be tender. Look 
 at the extremity of the wing ; if it is sharp pointed 
 and whitish, the bird is still tender; but if those 
 marks do not exist, the bird is invariably old, and 
 consequently unfit for use, except as above-men¬ 
 tioned ; or for sauces, consommes, and cold pat- 
 
230 
 
 ties. You should also be careful to remove the 
 nerves when you bone them. 
 
 The size of the dish must determine the number 
 of birds you are to dress; in general two or three 
 are wanted; empty them as usual, and take care 
 not to injure the skin : pick them well, cut oft* the 
 sinew that is under the joints of the legs, truss the 
 legs up towards the breast, and then dress up the 
 birds in the following manner. First, put the pack¬ 
 thread needle through the stump of the right wing, 
 then through the thick joint of the leg, and next 
 across the body ; then again through the other 
 stump ; let the packthread be very tight, and fasten 
 the knot. Now from the back run the needle 
 through the side beneath the leg, then above the 
 pinion below the breast, so as to perfoi*ate the 
 breast-bone: let the needle come out from the 
 part parallel to that where first it was introduced, 
 and then through the side to the back, and 
 fasten the packthread. Give a good shape to the 
 birds, which is an indispensable branch of know¬ 
 ledge in the art of cookery. A man cannot be 
 really a thorough good cook, unless he is practi¬ 
 cally acquainted with every branch of his art; and 
 this branch of it is very important, though it is 
 certainly not easy to teach how to truss poultry or 
 game by any written direction; you may as well 
 attempt to teach drawing without a master. Sea¬ 
 soning and marking- may be explained, but prac¬ 
 tice alone can make a man perfect. Such, how¬ 
 ever, as have been initiated, may derive great ad¬ 
 vantage from such a work as this. Put the par¬ 
 tridges between layers of bacon, and pour a poele 
 over them. If you happen to have no poele ready, 
 use some of the pot-top, with a little salt, parsley, 
 and onions, well seasoned with spice, salt, and 
 pepper. They will be done in the course of 
 
231 
 
 twenty minutes, but let it be on a slow fire; drain 
 and put them into the dish, and pour an Espagnole 
 over them, in which you have put a little glaze of 
 game, to give it the taste of game. 
 
 N.B. —All dishes of game require more season¬ 
 ing than white fowl. 
 
 No. 2.— Voting Partridges d la Montmorenci. 
 
 Take some young partridges, which empty, and 
 truss as in No. 1; dip the breasts into boiling 
 water; when made firm, dip them immediately in 
 cold water : next lard them with thin slits of bacon; 
 mark them in a stew-pan with slices of fat bacon 
 all round only, pour a little poele or any other 
 liquid, enough to immerse about one half of the 
 birds. Have a brisk fire over them to seize the 
 bacon; when they have been stewed for twenty 
 minutes, glaze them, and probe them near the back ; 
 if no blood issues, it is a sign that they are done 
 enough. Drain them, glaze them a second time, 
 and send them up with a ragout d la financiered 
 
 No. 3.— Young Partridges « la Barbarie. 
 
 Truss the birds as in No. 1; stuff them with 
 chopped truffles and rasped bacon, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, and allspice. You should pound this 
 mixture in the mortar, and when the truffles are re¬ 
 duced to paste, mix with them some whole ones that 
 have been cleaned and peeled, and put the whole 
 
 * It will be needless to remind the reader, that every thing 
 larded on the. top , is called piqui. Larded is when ypu put 
 bacon through the flesh. When you only lard the superficies, 
 you should say pique; otherwise, you will have only one term 
 to express two distinct ideas. The larding never glazes well. 
 If you do not dry the bacon in the oven, put the glaze over 
 lightly, and place it in the oven several times till it becomes 
 of a fine colour. 
 
232 
 
 in the body of the bird : then cut small pieces of 
 truffles in the shape of nails; make holes with a 
 penknife in the breasts of the birds, widen the holes 
 with a skewer and fill them with the truffles; let 
 them be nailed in very regularly. Then mark 
 them as in No. 1. They are to be stewed also in 
 the same manner. Serve under them an Italienne 
 with truffles. 
 
 N.B. —Take care to drain them well, otherwise 
 the fat will spoil both the taste and look of the 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 4.— Young Partridges d la Dreux. 
 
 This is nearly the same as the foregoing dish, 
 only instead of using truffles you must lard with 
 small pieces of ham : use the pen-knife to make 
 the holes, as larding-pins would spoil the look of 
 the birds, which are to be served whole. Mark 
 and stew as above, and serve up with the essence 
 of game. 
 
 No. 5.— Young Partridges d la Crapaudine. 
 
 Cut off’ the claws, after having emptied and picked 
 the birds ; make a hole below the joint of the leg; 
 truss the leg inside of the body; singe the birds 
 over the flame till the flesh gets firm ; pinch the 
 breast with your left hand ; scollop the breasts with¬ 
 out quite reaching the skin ; turn the flesh over on 
 the table ; beat the bird flat; dust it with a little salt 
 and pepper: then dip it twice into clarified butter 
 and crumbs of bread ; broil it, and send it up with 
 an Italienne , or essence of game. 
 
 No. 6.— Young Partridges d la Givry. 
 
 In this case you add a decoration to the birds, 
 in the following manner, after having trussed and 
 
233 
 
 stewed them as in No. 1. At dinner-time take 
 rings of white onions, let them be stewed white in 
 a little consomme , then take a cutter of the same 
 size as the inside of the rings of the onions, cut 
 round pieces of truffles that have been braized with 
 the birds; mind, the truffles must be of a very 
 black colour : (the parings are to be chopped and 
 mixed with the ltalienne:) the round pieces of 
 truffles are to be put over the breasts of the birds, 
 three on each side, Mosaic fashion, and the rings 
 of onions round the truffles, and one over the 
 pouch. If the truffles do not stick well, use a 
 little glaze to make them stick, as they are liable 
 to fall off. Do not mask with the sauce, which 
 must be poured into the bottom of the dish ; the 
 sauce must be an Italierme with truffles, mix with 
 it a little glaze of game, to give the taste of it. 
 
 No. 7.—Compoite of young Partridges <1 blajic. 
 
 Take four young partridges, cut off the claws, 
 and truss them with the legs inwards; next singe 
 them. Then take a few pieces of the breast of 
 bacon, which cut into the size of small corks, and 
 boil in water for half an hour. Next fry them 
 white, and take them off from the fire as soon as 
 they are done. Now fry the partridges white also, 
 in butter and the fat of the bacon. When they 
 are quite firm, take them out of the stew-pan. 
 Then throw a spoonful of flour into the butter; 
 fry this flour white. Next pour in a little broth 
 till the sauce is thin enough to be skimmed, (for it 
 is to be observed, that if a sauce is too thick it can 
 never be skimmed), then put in some parings of 
 mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, 
 and season with a little thyme, bay-leaves, a clove, 
 a little salt, and a very small lump of sugar. Stew 
 the birds in this sauce, the same as a fricassee of 
 
234 
 
 chickens; if onions are agreeable, put a few small 
 ones to give a relish. When the compotte is done, 
 skim off all the fat, and drain the partridges in a 
 clean stew-pan; drain all the bacon and mush¬ 
 rooms, which you throw into the stew-pan with the 
 partridges; reduce the sauce after it has been 
 skimmed; strain it through a tammy over the 
 birds, and put the stew-pan au bain marie: now 
 take some small white onions of an equal size, 
 which have been boiling in a little consomme with 
 a very small bit of sugar; have also some mush¬ 
 rooms, fried white in butter; when the onions and 
 mushrooms are ready, set the compotte a boiling; 
 thicken the sauce with the yolks of four eggs beat 
 with a little cream and lemon juice; next put in 
 the small onions, mushrooms, and bacon, with some 
 queneUes , if you think proper to garnish your 
 entree. If the dish is of a large size, put a crust 
 of bread, cut into the shape of cocks’-combs, stick 
 in the dish between each bird, and send up with a 
 good seasoning. 
 
 No. 8.— Compotte of young Partridges cl brun. 
 
 Do exactly the same thing as in No. 7; instead 
 of moistening with consomme , use gravy of veal. 
 Fry the onions in a little butter till they are of a 
 line brown, then let them boil in a little gravy of 
 veal; they should be of an equal size; give them 
 a good colour. Add truffles and mushrooms, if 
 you have any, and reduce the sauce till thick 
 enough to mask. 
 
 No. S-— Partridges and Cabbages , dressed. 
 
 Take a couple of old partridges, empty and 
 truss them, with the legs inward ; simmer them on 
 the fire till they get firm. Blanch twx> cabbages 
 that you have cut in halves, or in four if they are 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 23 5 
 
 large. When they are well done, they reduce ex¬ 
 ceedingly. You must blanch the bacon with the 
 cabbages, otherwise it will be too salt. When the 
 cabbages are blanched, put them into cold water 
 to cool; cut off' the tops of the middle, squeeze 
 them so as to leave no water ; have also blanched 
 about a pound and a half of breast of bacon with 
 the cabbage ; put this bacon into a small braizing- 
 pan, and the birds close to the bacon. Next put 
 in the cabbage, a few carrots turned round, two or 
 three onions, a bunch of parsley seasoned, and a 
 small quantity of allspice, bay-leaves, thyme, salt, 
 and pepper: cover the whole with a few layers of 
 bacon, and with a sheet of buttered paper; then 
 moisten with a braize, if you have any ; if not, take 
 some of the pot-top, but in the latter case you must 
 season a little more. Set the contents of the braiz- 
 ing-pan boiling, and this being done, put it over a 
 slow fire for three hours and a half. Now take out 
 the layers of bacon, the onions, and the carrots. 
 Place a large sieve over a dish of the same size, 
 turn the birds into the sieve, take a clean towel, 
 mould the cabbages into a large roller, squeeze 
 them so as to have no fat left; then take a plain 
 mould, garnish it with very thin layers of bacon, 
 make a kind of flower in the middle of the mould 
 with the carrots, and put a border of small glazed 
 cmions all round the top ; next take some of the 
 cabbage with a spoon, with which fill the mould. 
 At the same time let the birds be covered all over 
 with the cabbage equally on all sides. Make a 
 rosasse of carrots on each face of the mould, which 
 fill to the brim. Then put it into the oven to 
 keep warm. At dinner-time turn the mould into 
 a dish, let it lay for a moment to drain out all the 
 broth, and send up with a nice Espagnole over it. 
 
236 
 
 
 Partridges with cabbages, in my opinion, are far 
 superior when not put into a mould; squeeze the 
 cabbage the same as before in a clean towel, to 
 give it the shape of a large rolling-pin, then take 
 the two ends of it to make a bed for the bird on 
 the dish ; cut the cabbages of an equal size, dress 
 them round the partridges with a carrot between 
 each cabbage; put also some sausages, and cover 
 the whole when well dressed with a good Espagnole 
 sauce, in which you have reduced a little of the 
 liquor of the cabbages ; if the cook has any in¬ 
 genuity, this dish will be most excellent, and ex¬ 
 hibit a beautiful appearance. 
 
 No. 10.— Saute of Fillets of young Partridges , au 
 ftimet of Game. 
 
 Take four young partridges, rather stale, that 
 they may have more flavour, and be more tender; 
 flay them, take up the fillets, detach the filets 
 mignons from the upper fillets, cut out the sinews 
 of the filets mignons , and flatten the fillets with 
 the handle of your knife dipped into cold water, 
 the blade being also dipped into the same; pass it 
 gently over the fillets, leaning heavy on the table, 
 in order to take off’ the second skin of the fillets 
 only: trim the fillets nicely, mark them with 
 melted butter in a saute- pan ; lay the filets mignons 
 over the others, dust a little salt, and cover the 
 whole with a round piece of paper till dinner-time, 
 then sautez the fillets over a very brisk and equal 
 fire. With the remnants of the birds, put in a few 
 thin slices of veal and ham in a small stew-pan, 
 lay the remnants over the veal, and moisten the 
 whole with a few spoonsful of consomme. Let the 
 whole sweat on a slow fire, and when the meat is 
 sweated thoroughly, moisten with boiling consomme , 
 
237 
 
 > 
 
 to which add a few mushrooms, if you have any? 
 together with a bunch of parsley and green onions, 
 Let the whole stew for an hour and a half; strain 
 this fumet through a silk sieve, and reduce it to 
 glaze, to use it when required. When the fillets 
 have been sautez, drain the butter; then take four 
 or five spoonsful of bechamelle, some of the above 
 glaze of game, and keep stirring without allowing 
 them to boil. Taste whether seasoned enough: 
 pour a little thick cream to whiten the sauce, and 
 make it mellower; have as many slices of bread cut 
 into the shape of the fillets, fried in butter of a 
 good colour, as you have large fillets ; glaze the 
 fried bread lightly, then dish the saute in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner: a crouton, and next a large fillet 
 with the thick end upwards, then a filetmignon 
 with the point upwards, then again a crouton , &c. 
 &c. as above. Mask the fillets only, not the 
 croutons , and send up to table. 
 
 No. 11. — Cutlets of young Partridges en Epi- 
 gramme , with Truffles. 
 
 Take five young partridges, flay them as above ; 
 take off, first the fillets, and next i\\e filets miq- 
 nons; tear off the second skin from the fillets, 
 point the smallest bone of the pinion or wing, and 
 stick it into the end of the fillet. Then season 
 with salt and pepper; rub the fillets over with a 
 brush that has been dipped into the yolk of an 
 egg; then dip them into crumbs of bread, next 
 into melted butter; and again into crumbs of 
 biead , just before dinner-time broil them on a 
 ^eiy sharp fire. Sautez the filets mignons , of 
 which you make a blanquette , in which you must 
 mix some glaze of game. Put the blanquette into 
 the middle of the dish, and the broiled fillets all 
 
round. Mask the fillets with some li«-ht glaze of 
 game. Ir you expect much company, m order to 
 give the dish a better appearance, put as many 
 croutons between as you have filets, and add some 
 mushrooms to the blanquette , mixed with the 
 truffles. The truffles must be saute with the in¬ 
 side fillet. Take out the fillets first, and let the 
 truffles fry a little longer in the butter before you 
 mix the whole. 
 
 No. 12.— Saute of Fillets of young Partridges 
 
 d la Sefton. 
 
 Take five or six young partridges, as tender as 
 possible, and of an equal size, flay them, take up 
 the fillets, and cut off the second skin. Next slit 
 the fillets at three equal distances: have ready 
 some truffles that are chamfered and cut into the 
 shape of cock’s-combs, take about eight of these 
 slices of truffles, lay them equally over one another, 
 and introduce some into each of the slits that you 
 have made, and next into the other two parts: 
 take care not to make the slits too deep; do the 
 same with regard to every one of the ten fillets. 
 The filets mignons are only to be marked in 
 melted butter ; do not forget to pull off the sinews, 
 to prevent the fillets from taking a bad shape while 
 frying. Mark the fillets in a saute- pan with but¬ 
 ter and round slices of truffles of an equal size, and 
 sautez the fillets when dinner-time is at hand. 
 For the sauce, see Sauce cl la Lucullus ; next 
 drain the butter, put the round truffles on the 
 sauce, and keep the other halves to lay over the 
 fillets. Make a kind of coronet with the large fil¬ 
 lets, and dish the blanquette in the middle, stand¬ 
 ing nearly upright, by which is meant, that you 
 
239 
 
 are to press upon each intermediate one. This 
 entree has a tine appearance when dished properly. 
 
 No. 13.— Croquettes of young Partridges. ' 
 
 The same process as in No. 29, page 216*. (Cro¬ 
 quettes of Chickens.) Only add a little glaze of 
 game to the bechameUe. No. 29, page 21b'. 
 
 No. 14.— Souffle of young Partridges. 
 
 Take the flesh of roasted partridges, which chop 
 and pound in a mortar, with a few spoonsful of 
 veloute , and a lump of butter: season the whole 
 well. Mix with this puree the yolks of four or 
 five eggs, and strain the whole through a sieve. 
 Then put it into a basin. Beat well the whites of 
 six eggs, which you mix lightly with the puree. 
 Let the whole be put into a dish a soufflt, and 
 baked in the oven for twenty minutes; take care it 
 does not burn at the top, which may be prevented 
 by covering it with paper. 
 
 No. 15. —Puree of Game d V Kspagnole. 
 
 This is an entree of desserte. Take the fleshy 
 parts of young partridges that have been in a salmi, 
 chop and pound them well. Warm the sauce, in 
 which some fried bread is left simmering. Then 
 throw the pounded meat into the sauce. Strain 
 the whole through a tammy. You need not put 
 any seasoning, if the salmi is seasoned enough. If 
 you should be asked for puree of game, you must 
 make a sauce d salmi , the same as below, and put 
 the pounded flesh of young partridges into the 
 sauce. This puree is to be sent up in a deep 
 dish, and covered with poached eggs. 
 
 This entree is likewise very acceptable in a cas¬ 
 serole au ris, a vol au vent~ in croustades , petits 
 pates. 
 
240 
 
 N o. 1G. — Salmi of young Partridges & 
 
 V Espagnole. 
 
 Take five young partridges, rather stale, roast 
 them under-done, but let them be covered with 
 paper, for fear they should get brown while roast¬ 
 ing ; mind, they muse be kept as under-done as 
 possible. Then carve the birds as if for eating; 
 by which is meant the wings, legs, and breast; flay 
 them entirely, so as not to leave a particle of skin ; 
 trim them nicely, and marli them in a clean stew- 
 pan; cover it, and let the whole cool till the sauce 
 is ready. Take four or five shalots, some slips of 
 ham, a carrot cut into dice, three or four mush¬ 
 rooms, a little parsley-root, a bay-leaf, a little 
 thyme, two cloves, eight grains of corn pepper, and 
 as many grains of allspice, fry all these ingredients 
 in a stew-pan with a little butter, and when fried 
 lightly, moisten with three glasses of Madeira 
 wine, six spoonsful of Espagnole , and two spoons¬ 
 ful of consomme; then put all the parings of the 
 birds, namely, the loins and skin, but not the claws, 
 as they would give a bad taste. Let them stew for 
 an hour and a half on the corner of the stove ; skim 
 off* the fat, put in a small bit of sugar to counter¬ 
 act the bitter taste of the lungs, and strain the 
 sauce through a tammy over the limbs ; put the 
 salmi au bain marie , and send up with fried slices 
 of bread cut into the shape of a kite, or of bellows. 
 If by chance you are short of Espagnole , make a 
 little rou.r, and moisten with some gravy of veal, 
 and a few glasses of wine, Madeira in preference. 
 
 The following is a different way of making the 
 salmi, and which the cooks term VAncienne; it is 
 a good method, but does not look so well. Roast 
 and cut the partridges in the same manner as above, 
 making the sauce the same, but instead of putting 
 
241 
 
 the trimmings into the sauce, put it in the mortar 
 pounded fine, and rubbed through a tammy; 
 moisten with the sauce, then put this puree over 
 the members in the stew-pan, warm them in the 
 bain marie , and dress the salmi with croutons in 
 the same manner as the others. 
 
 No. 17.— Young Partridges a la Monglas. 
 
 Th is is also an entree of desserte. Take three 
 roasted or stewed birds ; they must be whole, not 
 damaged at all; cut out the whole of the breast in 
 a square piece, so as to form a square aperture ; 
 clean away from the interior all the spongy sub¬ 
 stance, in order to put a salpicon inside of the 
 breasts of the birds. The salpicon* is to be made 
 in the following manner: cut into very small dice 
 the flesh that you have taken up; cut likewise small 
 dice of tongue and of mushrooms ; if you have 
 any truffles by you, a few may be added. Reduce 
 a little Espagnole, with which you mix some glaze 
 of game. Put the dice of meat into the sauce, sea- 
 son well, and put the salpicon into the aperture. 
 Lay with a paste-brush some yolk of egg all over, 
 and put some crumbs of bread over the eggs, then 
 some butter over that, and crumbs of bread again ; 
 use the salamander to give a colouring to the birds. 
 Next keep the whole hbt in an oven, and send up 
 with an Espagnole of game. By putting a little 
 glaze of game in the brown sauce, it gives the taste 
 of game. 
 
 No. 18.— J oung Partridges en surprise. 
 
 Do as above, but instead of a salpicon make a 
 
 * As the meat taken from the body of the bird is not suffi¬ 
 cient to fill it again, if you have not some of the same sort of 
 meat, it is necessary to use the various articles mentioned, as 
 tongue, mushrooms, &c, to fill up the body. 
 
 M 
 
242 
 
 mince of fillets of partridges only, with which stuff 
 the birds. Dip them into eggs and crumbs of 
 bread as above, fry them of a nice colour, and send 
 up with a supreme of game. This sauce must 
 be white; as you put some glaze of game into 
 a white bechamelle , and use white sauce for the 
 mince. 
 
 All dishes that are made with what is left in the 
 larder, are economical; and, if they are well 
 managed and well seasoned, are very good, and of 
 good appearance. 
 
 No. 19. — Quenelles of Young Partridges aufumet. 
 
 Make the quenelles as directed in its proper 
 place, only they are to be made of the meat of 
 young partridges. You may send them up in dif¬ 
 ferent ways, au consomme clair, or a Vessence , or 
 aufumet. 
 
 No. 20.— Boudins of ycung Partridges. 
 
 Make boudins de quenelles of young partridges ; 
 butter the bottom of a stew r -pan, lay the boudins 
 over the butter, and pour some boiling water over 
 them, with a little salt. When poached, drain 
 them, and lay them to cool: when cold, dip them 
 into an omelette and crumbs of bread : next fry 
 them. Drain them well, till not a particle of 
 dripping is left, and send up with a brown Ita- 
 lienne under it. If you wish to send them up 
 broiled, you must use yolks of eggs, next crumbs 
 of bread, then butter and crumbs again, before 
 you broil them. But they are better with crumbs 
 of bread. 
 
 No. 21.— Quenelles of Partridges a la Seftrn. 
 
 Take the flesh of three very young partridges, 
 and make it into quenelles , as directed at that 
 
243 
 
 article. When the quenelles are made, and are 
 quite cold in ice, mould three boudins of the size 
 of the dish, and poach them in the usual way. For 
 the sauce, take four spoonsful of bechamel , and 
 mix with it two spoonsful of glaze of game, three 
 spoonsful of double cream, a little salt, and very 
 little Cayenne; work the sauce very fine, and 
 cover the quenelles with it. This entree is most 
 delicate, when well dressed. 
 
CHAP. XI. 
 
 RABBITS. 
 
 No. 1 .—Fillets of young Rabbits a la Orlie. 
 
 It is to be observed, that warren rabbits only 
 ought to be sent up to a good table, tame rabbits 
 in general having no savour but that of cabbage; 
 and you must be particular in using for table only 
 young rabbits; this you may ascertain, by break¬ 
 ing the jaw between your thumb and finger; if 
 they are old, they resist the pressure': feel also in 
 the joint of the paw for a little nut; if it is gone, 
 the rabbit is old, and not fit for fine cookery ; in 
 such case, use them to make rabbit puddings or 
 pies. 
 
 Take four rabbits; detach the fillets, and Jilets 
 mignons: cut the large fillets of an equal size: 
 marinade them in lemon-juice, a little parsley, a 
 shalot cut into slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 salt, pepper, &c. &c., leave them in that marinade 
 for two hours. Drain, and dip them into the 
 white of an egg that has been well beaten, and 
 then into some flour mixed with a few crumbs of 
 bread. Fry them of a fine brown, and serve under 
 them a poivrade , or an Espagnole of game; 
 observe particularly, that the fillets must be under¬ 
 done. 
 
245 
 
 The intelligence of the cook will inform him, 
 that when the rabbits are too small to be filleted, 
 he must make a marinade with the members of the 
 rabbits, cut as follows : the shoulders, the legs cut 
 to pieces, with the back, and the head, as many per¬ 
 sons like to eat the brains; the small bones of the 
 carcass must be thrown out, except you have broth 
 in preparation, then put these trimmings in it, 
 which will clarify your broth. When the rabbits 
 are small you must use several. This is an appro¬ 
 priate dish for a shooting party, being the produce 
 of the sport. 
 
 No. 2.— Turban of Fillets of Rabbits a la 
 
 Sultane. 
 
 Take the fillets of four rabbits; there will be 
 eight; likewise the filets mignons and kidneys; 
 lard the eight fillets with very small slips of bacon, 
 all of an equal size. Have a farce a, quenelles 
 ready made out of the flesh of the legs of the rab¬ 
 bits. It would be requisite to have a kind of paste- 
 cutter, very deep, or a sweetmeat pot to put into 
 the middle of the dish, that «you may raise the 
 turban all round it; in this case the fat might be 
 more easily drained, which is always very abundant, 
 if you do not place a mould in the centre of 
 the dish. Take a large piece of stale bread, cover 
 it with a thin layer of bacon, lay it in the middle 
 of the dish, and dress the farce a quenelles equally 
 round on it; then with the handle of a wooden 
 spoon mark eight ribs, leaving an interval between 
 each, not straight, but rather sloping; put the fillets 
 of rabbits inside each of those ribs ; and after hav¬ 
 ing skinned the kidneys, put them into four of the 
 intervals, two by two ; in the other four put fillets 
 of truffles. You may give to this dish a superb 
 appearance. 
 
24 G 
 
 Mind to turn the pointed extremity of the fillets 
 inside of the turban, otherwise they would not 
 stick. Cover the whole with layers of bacon. If 
 you have an earthen pan that may cover the Avhole 
 hermetically, lay it over, without using the layers 
 of bacon. The steam alone will prevent the fillets 
 from getting dry. When the turban has been 
 kept in the oven long enough to be well-baked, 
 glaze the fillets of a light brown, and put them 
 into the oven again; take the lump of bread out 
 from the middle of the dish, and wipe off all the fat. 
 When going to send up, put a ragout , made with 
 quenelles , cocks’-combs, and mushrooms, in the 
 middle of the dish, and sauce the outside with a very 
 good fumet of rabbit. To make the fumet of rabbits, 
 you must use all the rabbit-bones, with a little veal, 
 ham, mushrooms, parsley, and green onions, &c. 
 &c.; and when that consomme has been made in 
 the usual way, reduce it, and then put some of the 
 reduction with some bechamelle , to sauce the turban 
 or any other entree of rabbits with. Whether the 
 sauce is to be white or brown , you must always 
 give it the taste of rabbits. To make the turban 
 in a more clean and efficient manner, have some 
 trimmings of paste, which spread of the size of the 
 inside of the dish. Bake it in the oven, and when 
 done, dress the turban upon this paste; when the 
 turban is quite ready to serve up put it on the dish, 
 which prevents it dirting the dish, and the entree 
 will not be so greasy. 
 
 No. 3.— Mince of Rabbits au fumet. 
 
 This is an entree de desserte. Take the fillets 
 of roasted rabbits, pare the sinews, then make a 
 mince, but hold your knife on a slope, that the 
 thin slices may curl like shavings; put the mince 
 into a reduced veloute or bechamelle , mixed with 
 
«47 
 
 some glaze of game; do not forget to pour into the 
 mince a little thick cream, to give it a white colour, 
 and make it mellower. You may put the mince 
 either in a bordure, a vol au vent, a casserole an 
 ris, a turban , a grenade, a gratin, petty patties, 
 petites casserolettes au ris, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 4 .—Scollops of Rabbits aux Truffles, the same 
 
 a la Conti. 
 
 Take five rabbits ; detach the fillets, tear off the 
 sinews, then scollop the fillets, keeping your knife 
 on a slope; flatten them with the handle of your 
 knife; put the scollops into a saute- pan with some 
 melted butter; have ready some truffles peeled and 
 cut into slices of the same size as the scollops will 
 be, mix them with the rabbits in the butter, salt, 
 and pepper. Sautez the whole a little while before 
 dinner-time, drain the butter, and put the scollops 
 into the sauce, in order that the truffles may give 
 their flavour to the sauce, and likewise to the meat. 
 Garnish the edges of the dish with a conti The 
 best and most expeditious manner, is to mark the 
 fillets with the truffles in the saute- pan, without pre¬ 
 viously scolloping them ; put some saltas before, and 
 put the saute- pan over a sharp fire about twenty 
 minutes before dinner-time; turn the fillets equally 
 on every side, then take a sheet of clean paper, 
 scollop the fillets very quickly, and putting them 
 again in the saute- pan, let them remain on the fire 
 a few minutes with the truffles; drain the butter in 
 
 * I call conti, some of the filets larded with small bacon, or 
 decorated with truffles; they must be done in the following 
 way : Take a sa«/e'-pan, and put on the bottom of it some 
 slices of fat bacon, lay your conti on the top of them in any 
 shape you think proper, and powder some salt over; put them 
 into a hot oven, and as soon as they are firm, glaze them, and 
 serve them round whatever they may be wanted with. 
 
248 
 
 m 
 
 a basin, and put the scollops in the sauce in the bain 
 marie to acquire the flavour of the truffles, &c. 
 
 No. 5.— Blanquette of Rabbits with green Peas. 
 
 Take four rabbits; detach the fillets, sautez 
 them whole in melted butter with a little salt and 
 pepper ; next cut them on a sheet of paper, of the 
 size of a shilling, and put them into the sauce d 
 blanquette aux pois. (S ee Sauces.) This entree 
 is sent up in a vol au vent, a casserole with rice, 
 &c. &c. 
 
 No. 6.— Scollops of Rabbits aufumet. 
 
 Take five rabbits; detach the fillets, sautez them 
 in melted better. When done cut them as for a 
 blanquette, and put them into a sauce made as 
 follows: make a consomme with the remnants of 
 the rabbits; put a few slices of Westmoreland ham 
 in a small stew-pan, with some pieces of veal, &c. 
 put the bones of the rabbits over them; then 
 moisten with two spoonsful of first broth. Let 
 the meat sweat thoroughly, till, on thrusting your 
 knife into it, neither scum nor blood issue. Then 
 fill the stew-pan with boiling broth, seasoned with 
 a bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, 
 and a few mushrooms. When the consomme is 
 done enough, put a small lump of butter into a 
 stew-pan on the fire, and as soon as the butter is 
 melted, throw in a spoonful of flour: let the flour 
 fry a little in the butter, without, however, getting- 
 brown. Next moisten with the consomme. Let 
 this sauce boil gently on the corner of the stove for 
 an hour. Skim the grease off carefully, then reduce 
 the sauce, and thicken it with the yolks of three 
 eggs well beaten with some cream. Strain this 
 sauce through a tammy over the scollops, and send 
 
up quite hot. This entree may he served either 
 with or without contis , in a casserole with rice, a 
 vol au vent , or a bordure of mashed potatoes, d his 
 sauce being made in the same way as any other 
 sauce for blanquette, if you should have any other 
 entrees that require white sauces, by keeping a little 
 of this, you will save at once expense and trouble. 
 
 No. 7.— Scollops of Rabbits a la Conti. 
 
 See No. 6. Only keep four fillets, which you 
 divide into eight pieces, cross-ways. Flatten them 
 a little with the handle of your knife; lard them 
 with thin slips of bacon. Then butter a saute- 
 pan . Give the above pieces whatever shape you 
 may think proper, powder a little salt over them, 
 and bake them. Do not let them be too long in 
 the oven ; glaze them nicely, and dish them round 
 the scollops. In the country, when you have plenty 
 of rabbits, you should use the fillets for the parlour, 
 and make a pie or pudding for the domestics with 
 the lees and shoulders. 
 
 No. 8.— Young Rabbits enfriteau. 
 
 Take several very young rabbits; skin them and 
 cut them in four, according to the size; let them be 
 marinaded as in No. 1, of this Chapter. Drain 
 them and dip them into flour ; then fry them till of 
 a light brown. Serve up with a poivrade, or a love- 
 apple sauce. 
 
 No. 9-— Rabbits a Icl Venitienne. 
 
 Take three or more young rabbits; skin and 
 empty them nicely, then cut them into pieces in the 
 following manner: take up the shoulders, then the 
 head from the neck, divide the hack into four 
 parts ; take off the legs on each side of the saddle, 
 
 m 3 
 
250 
 
 and cut them into two pieces. Have ready half a 
 pottle of mushrooms chopped very fine, with parsley 
 and shalots the same. Put a small lump of butter 
 into a stew-pan with a little rasped bacon: put the 
 sweet herbs on the fire with a little salt, pepper, and 
 allspice : let them stew for a short time on a slow 
 fire. When sufficiently fried, put in the rabbits, 
 make them get firm with these sweet herbs, till 
 they are sufficiently done. Take the limbs out 
 from the seasoning, lean the stew-pan sideways to 
 skim the fat that comes uppermost, put a spoonful 
 of sauce tournee , or if you have none, add to it a 
 small tea-spoonful of flour, moistened with a spoon¬ 
 ful or two of consomme , let it boil a few minutes, 
 and make a thickening of the yolks of four eggs ; 
 put the juice of a lemon and a little Cayenne 
 pepper: stir the sauce well: if it happens to be too 
 thick, make it thinner with a spoonful of broth: 
 keep it quite hot, throw the members into the sauce 
 again, and send up quite hot. This sauce must be 
 rather highly seasoned. 
 
 No. 10. — Rabbits en caisses. 
 
 Make cases of paper, either square or round ; do 
 the rabbits as above with sweet herbs; when nearly 
 done, put them into the paper cases and the sweet 
 herbs over them, with the rasped crust of a two¬ 
 penny French loaf, to absorb the fat. Then put 
 the paper cases into an oven. Before you send up 
 squeeze over it the juice of a lemon, and pour in a 
 few spoonsful of Espagnole . 
 
 No. 11. — Giblottes of Rabbits. 
 
 Take two young rabbits to make a giblotte; but 
 observe, they must be both alike as to quality ; if 
 you put a young one with an old one, the young 
 one will be done to rags, when the other will 
 
scarcely be clone at all. Skin them, and cut them into 
 pieces as above. Have ready some pieces of breast 
 of bacon cut into the shape of small corks, which 
 are blanched in order that they may not be briny. 
 Fry them in the stew-pan with a little butter, to 
 give them a light brown colour. Take the bacon 
 out of the stew-pan, and put the members of the 
 rabbits into it; when made firm, take them out 
 also; throw a £ood handful of flour with the butter 
 into the stew-pan, let it get a little brown ; next 
 moisten with some gravy of veal. Let the sauce 
 boil a little, to see whether it is not too thick ; if so, 
 you will never be able to skim the fat oft', and ac¬ 
 cordingly it will never be of a good colour. When 
 sufficiently stewed, put in the members, bacon, a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, thyme, bay- 
 leaf, clove, &c. &c.; and when the sauce has boiled 
 for an hour, put the members into another clean 
 stew-pan, and drain the sauce through a tammy, 
 then take some turned mushrooms, and some small 
 onions, and fry them white in butter; let them 
 boil for a quarter of an hour in the sauce. When 
 you are going to send up, dish first the members, 
 next the small white onions, and then the bacon 
 and the mushrooms over. Take off' the fat 
 and scum, otherwise there can be no good 
 cookery ; and cover the w hole with the sauce 
 when reduced. 
 
 No. 12.— White Giblottes of Rabbits. 
 
 Do as above, but after having dredged with 
 flour, and moistened with consomme , let the whole 
 stew for about an hour. Next take off all the 
 scum and fat : shift the members it to another clean 
 stew-pan ; reduce the sauce, strain it through a 
 tammy over the members, lay the giblotte on the 
 fire, and when it boils, thicken it with the yolks of 
 
252 
 
 four eggs, and the juice of a lemon. This sauce, 
 although white, must be highly seasoned. Note, 
 if you want to make the giblotte whiter, disgorge 
 the rabbits, and blanch them. 
 
 No. 13.— Fillets of young Rabbits en lorgnettes. 
 
 Take the fillets of four young rabbits that have 
 been skinned ; lard them with thin bits of bacon ; 
 when larded, make an opening on the thickest part, 
 by thrusting your knife nearly to the very ex¬ 
 tremity. Then run the knife in, but no farther 
 than the middle; and so on with the rest. Put a 
 little butter into a saute- pan ; thrust your finger 
 into the opening, and put into it some carrot 
 or turnip to keep it open ; give those parts the 
 shape of a lorgnette , or eye-glass ; put them for a 
 moment into an oven, that they may take a good 
 form. When firm, mark them in a stew-pan, over 
 a bed of minced roots and vegetables, covered with 
 bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, thyme,, bay- 
 leaves, &c. &c. and moisten with two spoonsful of 
 consomme. Let the whole stew for a quarter of 
 an hour or twenty minutes ; drain the fillets, re¬ 
 duce the liquor, to which add a little glaze of a 
 light colour, and send up with endives au veloute , 
 or a soubise. (See Sauces.) Dish en miroton, 
 and pour the sauce in the middle. Mind, this 
 sauce must not be too liquid- 
 
 No. 14.— Hot raised Pie of Rabbits. 
 
 Take one or two rabbits, according to the size 
 of your pie. Skin and empty them ; then detach 
 the legs and shoulders, which you cut into halves : 
 from the head to the tail cut out four pieces of an 
 equal size; then chop a shalot, a little parsley, 
 and a few mushrooms, and stew them a little: next 
 
253 
 
 put the members into the butter with the sweet 
 herbs till the flesh is quite firm, then season with 
 salt, pepper, and spices. In the course of a few 
 minutes drain the butter. Then raise a crous- 
 tade , (see Pastry ) ,• put the limbs into it, and put 
 the whole into the oven. When the crust is baked 
 enough, make a round opening, lift up this kind of 
 cover, and just as you are going to send up, pour, 
 into the pie a rayotit a la financier e over the rab¬ 
 bits. Be careful to drain the fat that may have 
 remained. 
 
 N.B. —The above is the true manner of making 
 a raised pie of rabbits. Many people make a 
 pie-crust, which is commonly called croustade ; and 
 after having emptied it, put in a giblotte. The 
 former method, however, is preferable, as it retains 
 better the flavour of rabbit. 
 
 No. 15. — Quenelles of Rabbits. 
 
 This farce is made like the generality of que¬ 
 nelles : the only difference is, that you take the 
 flesh of rabbits instead of any other meat. The 
 legs, in general, are used for making the quenelles ; 
 the fillets will supply you with another entree ; so 
 will the legs occasionally. The bones and the 
 parings are used to make the consomme and 
 sauces. As the legs are tougher than the tender 
 fillets, they should be pounded for a longer time, 
 and rubbed through a tammv, on account of the 
 number of nerves and sinews. 
 
 No. 16.— Gratin of Rabbits. 
 
 This is an entree of desserte ;* take a couple of 
 roasted rabbits ; take off the whole of the fleshy 
 parts ; then pare those that have sinews about 
 
 * Desserte, is any thing left from the preceding day. 
 
254 
 
 them; mince the meat very fine, and put this 
 mince into a bechamel reduced; take a little of 
 the liquor, which gratinez (by gratine is meant, 
 to boil it in a silver dish till it sticks at the bottom 
 without burning ) When the preparation is cold, 
 stick a border of soft bread all round the inside 
 of the dish, and put your mince into the middle : 
 level it well with a knife ; then powder crumbs of 
 bread over it, which baste with melted butter ; and 
 then put crumbs a second time, and baste with 
 butter again. Then make it brown all over with 
 a salamander, because if you were to put the dish 
 into an oven hot enough to give it a colouring, the 
 gratin would burn. Keep it hot, and send it up 
 either with slices of bread fried in butter all round 
 the dish, cut in the shape of corks, or with flow- 
 rets made of puff-paste. 
 
 No. 17 .—Souffle of Rabbits. 
 
 This is also an entree of desserte. Take off the 
 flesh of roasted rabbits, chop it very fine, and 
 pound it: pour into it a few spoonsful of veloute, 
 season it well. Break half a dozen of eggs, the 
 whites on one side, the yolks on the other, throw 
 the beaten yolks into the puree , which put on the 
 fire a little, that the eggs may stew, but take your 
 stew pan off from the Areas soon as you perceive they 
 are done; then add a small bit of fresh butter, and 
 work the whole well. Next beat the six whites well, 
 and pour them also into the above preparation, 
 which you put into a souffle dish, and then into 
 the oven ten or twelve minutes before you send 
 up. In case you should not have a dish d souffle, 
 you must use a croustade or pie-crust.* 
 
 * By pie-crust, I mean here, the crust of a pie which has 
 been served up and returned unbroken. It can then serve 
 again for a souffii. 
 

 255 
 
 No. 18 .—Croquettes of Rabbits, 
 
 Cut the meat of young roasted rabbits into dree, 
 which throw into a bechamelle reduced, adding a 
 little glaze of game. Let this cool, then roll it 
 into whatever shape you please, either into balls, 
 or in the shape of a cork, or of a pear : but, in 
 my opinion, those that are the least handled are 
 the best. -Fry them and send up as other cro~ 
 quettes , garnished with fried parsley in the middle 
 of the dish. It is necessary to observe respecting 
 croquettes or any other thing made use of in 
 cookery, that the less you handle them the better. 
 Put the preparation of the croquettes in a flat long 
 dish ; equalize with the knife the preparation till 
 you have it of the thickness required: mark 
 with the knife the number of croquettes you intend 
 to make. Then take them from off the dish, and 
 roll them in your hand as little as possible, and 
 put them in the crumbs of bread and roll them 
 again in the omelette , and make them of equal sizes 
 in a cover of a stew pan till such time as you wish 
 to fry them. 
 
 No. 19 .—Boudins of Rabbits a la Reine. 
 
 Prepare in the same manner as the croquettes: 
 loll the meat into large boudins ,■ dip them into 
 eggs and crumbs of bread, and fry them. Serve 
 uudei them a veloute , with a little glaze of game. 
 1 or croquettes or boudins d la reine , made of 
 fowls, rabbits, or game, if you should have by 
 you some sweetbreads, they will be a great im¬ 
 provement to them, as they make them more mel¬ 
 low and delicate. 
 
 No. 20 .—Boudins of Rabbits a la Richelieu. 
 
 Take some quenelles of rabbits, and fry some 
 
256 
 
 white onions of a light colour. Put them into a 
 hair sieve to drain the butter, and then mix them 
 with the quenelles; let them cool, and roll it into 
 two boudins of the same length as your dish. Poach 
 them in boiled water with a little salt; when done, 
 drain them on a clean cloth, and let them cool.* 
 Next dip them into an omelette , and then in crumbs, 
 and fry them till they are of a light brown. Send 
 up with an Italienne under. 
 
 No. 21.— Legs of Rabbits a la Maintenon. 
 
 Bone the legs of the rabbits. Have ready some 
 sweated herbs, the same as for Maintenon cutlets, 
 with a little rasped bacon, salt, pepper, spices, &c. 
 Stew the legs in those herbs till they are done 
 through. Let them cool. When cold, cut slips 
 of paper of the size of the legs, or they may be a 
 little larger. Then take small layers of bacon, lay 
 one on the paper, and the leg over the bacon ; then 
 a little seasoning, and another layer of bacon; 
 wrap the whole in the paper, which is to be plaited 
 equally all round with the back of the blade of the 
 knife. Then broil them over a slow fire, and send 
 up hot, with no other sauce but the seasoning of 
 the herbs inside. 
 
 No. 22.— Rissoles of Rabbits. 
 
 Take the remnants of roasted rabbits, with 
 which make a farce fine. (See Farce Fine.) Spread 
 on the table some puff-paste, but do not let it be 
 too rich; cover it, at equal distances, with little 
 lumps of farce; moisten the paste all round the 
 farce , then fold it in two ; lean upon it all round 
 with your fingers that the paste may stick; then 
 
 * You may serve them, when hot, covered with a good 
 lechamelle: they have not so good an appearance, but they 
 are better eatin 
 
257 
 
 with a rowel cut it and fry it till it is of a fine brown 
 colour. You may occasionally dip them into eggs, 
 and then powder them over Avith crumbs of bread ; 
 they by that means fry of a better colour, but it 
 makes the crust thicker. You must always send 
 them up with fried parsley in the middle of the 
 dish. 
 
 No. 23. —Boudins of Babbits a la Lucullus. 
 
 Make boudins of rabbits with quenelles of the 
 same length as the dish ; poach them in milk and 
 butter, and a little salt, or boiled Avater and salt. 
 When done enough, drain them on a clean toAvel. 
 Cut one side flat, that they may dish well; ha\ T e 
 a little bechamelle reduced, and pretty thick, which 
 Avhiten Avith a little thick cream. Mask the bou¬ 
 dins Avith this sauce, but do not use more than is 
 requisite for masking : in the middle you are to 
 serve a ragout a VAllemande, which is the same 
 thing as a Toulouse. You must have six fillets 
 larded equally. Take a very large carrot, cover 
 it with thin layers of bacon, and lay the fillets 
 over the carrot Avith a little salt: let them stand a 
 moment in the oven till they are firm : then glaze 
 and dry them with the salamander : glaze them a 
 second time : then lay a fillet at each end of the 
 boudin, and one in the middle. Mind that you 
 keep this entree Avell covered, for otherwise it Avould 
 not be of a fine colour ; the bechamelle would dry 
 up, and consequently it Avould not preserve its white 
 colour. 
 
 No. 24 .—Fillets of Rabbits a la Marechalle. 
 
 Take the fillets of four young rabbits ; divide 
 each of them into two pieces, in order that they 
 may not be too long: flatten them with the back 
 of your knife, that they may be sooner done; let 
 
258 
 
 them be of an equal size; season them with salt 
 and pepper; then brush them over with the yolks 
 of eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread, next, 
 into melted butter, and then again into crumbs of 
 bread, but so as to lay very evenly. Press the 
 fillets between both your hands, in order to melt 
 the butter, and that the crumbs may stick equallv 
 all round. Broil them on a brisk fire, always ob¬ 
 serving that the thinner and the more tender the 
 objects, the more brisk must the fire be ; for if it 
 were not so, the fillets would get over-done, with¬ 
 out being of a nice brown. Glaze and dish them 
 en miroton , mask them with a brown Italienne, 
 mixed with a small quantity of glaze of game. 
 
 No. 25.—Fillets of Rabbits a la Pompadour. 
 
 Take the fillets of four young rabbits ; cut each 
 fillet into two, lengthways, and keep them as long 
 as possible. Make a sauce (Tattelets (see Sauce 
 (TAttelets,) put the fillets into the seasoning, after 
 having dusted them over with salt and pepper. 
 Let this preparation cool, without however getting 
 quite cold, yet sufficiently so as to enable you to 
 lay some round the fillets. Next dip the fillets 
 once into crumbs of bread: then break three eggs 
 into an earthen pan with a little salt, beat them, 
 throw in the fillets, dip them again lightly a second 
 time into crumbs of bread, and fry them of a nice 
 colour. Dish them in the shape of a pile, which 
 could not be done if they were not kept crisp. 
 Send up with the sauce a la Pompadour in the 
 middle. 
 
 No. 26.— Attereaux of Rabbits a Vltalienne. 
 
 Take the fillets of four young l-abbits; cut 
 them into pieces of an inch square: then have 
 some mushrooms, parsley, and shalots,. chopped 
 
259 
 
 fine; put them to fry gently in a small bit of 
 butter over a slow fire till they are done, then put 
 the bits of rabbits to fry gently in those herbs; 
 and when nearly done, drain them, and season 
 them with a little salt and pepper; take the sweet 
 herbs with which they have been stewed, and make 
 a sauce cVattelets in the following manner: put a 
 spoonful of flour to the herbs, and mix it well with 
 a wooden spoon; moisten with a few spoonsful of 
 good consomme ; let the whole boil till the flour 
 is quite done ; skim off the butter; reduce the 
 sauce thick, and then thicken it with the yolks of 
 two eggs; throw into this the square pieces you 
 have prepared; then let them get quite cold; 
 next take some silver skewers, have a few pieces 
 of calf’s udder ready done, of half the breadth 
 of the pieces of l’abbits, but not so thick; run a 
 skewer first through one of the pieces of rabbit, 
 dipped into the sauce, and next through a piece 
 of the udder, and so on ; observing, however, to 
 have a piece of rabbit at each end. Do not stuff* 
 the aitelet too full, for some of it must project at 
 each end. Put plenty of the sauce, and give a 
 square shape to the above preparation; then dip 
 it into crumbs of bread; next, when of a good 
 shape, into an omelette well seasoned: and into 
 crumbs of bread a second time; then fry it till of a 
 fine colour, and send up with a brown Italienne 
 mixed with a little glaze of rabbit, or the white 
 sharp sauce. 
 
 There are many entrees of rabbits, which I omit 
 mentioning in this present edition; such as the 
 bressole, pains of rabbits, projitrolles, &c. &c. 
 which are now quite out of fashion, for fashion 
 prevails in our art as in all others. A veteran 
 cook may still make good dishes, but they will not 
 catch the eye, as the phrase goes. In the common 
 
260 
 
 way, many entrees may be made with the legs of 
 rabbits; but as many dishes of game are not to be 
 sent up at a time, provided you have fillets, it is 
 better to use the legs for farces , or petty patties, 
 or croquettes , &c. &c. 
 
 No. 27 .—Rabbits and Onions. 
 
 As this dish is of the English school, it will not 
 require many observations; but the author would 
 recommend that old rabbits be never used, as they 
 always spoil both the taste and the look. 
 
 Take one or two rabbits, skin them and skewer 
 them as for boiling; put them into warm water in 
 order to extract all the blood : when they are very 
 white, boil them in boiling water and a little salt, 
 to prevent them from skimming. An hour is suf¬ 
 ficient to boil them if they are young: the sauce 
 as follows: peel a dozen of white onions, cut the 
 tops and the tails off, then cut them into six pieces, 
 put them toboil in boiling water and a little salt; when 
 nearly done, drain them on a sieve, put them into 
 a clean towel, squeeze out the water, then chop 
 them very fine on the table; put them into a stew- 
 pan, with half a quarter of a pound of butter, let 
 them fry to drain the water away : then put half 
 a spoonful of flour, mix well together, and moisten 
 with cream or milk, according to your means; 
 cream is preferable : next let this sauce reduce on 
 a sharp fire, put some salt and pepper to it, and 
 make it rather thick. Drain the rabbits, and cover 
 them with this sauce. 
 
 No. 28 .—Rabbit Soup. 
 
 This soup is made almost in the same way as the 
 soup ci la Reine. Take the fillets of four rabbits 
 to make an entree , and with the legs and shoulders 
 make the soup as follows: put them into warm 
 
 t 
 
26 1 
 
 water to take out the blood ; when quite clean, put 
 them into a stew-pan with a bundle of parsley and 
 a ladleful of good broth ; put all this to simmer 
 over a slow fire ; when done through, moisten with 
 some good broth. Season it of a good taste, and 
 let it boil for an hour only : if you let it boil too 
 long, the soup will be brown: next take the meat 
 out of the broth, drain it, and let it cool, then 
 pick all the meat from the bones, and put it into 
 the mortar, with four yolks of eggs boiled hard, 
 and the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in a little 
 broth ; pound all this very fine; rub it through 
 a tammy, moisten with the broth, and when done, 
 add to it a pint of double cream that has boiled ; 
 mix altogether, and serve up. Take particular 
 notice, that this soup must be very white; some¬ 
 times you give it with vermicelli, sometimes with 
 pearl barley, sometimes with rice; on all occa¬ 
 sions, each of these articles must be done sepa¬ 
 rately in broth, and put into the soup after¬ 
 wards. If you should be with a nobleman who 
 lias an abundance of rabbits, you may use also the 
 fillets, as the soup will then be whiter and better. 
 
 No. 29-— Fillets of Rabbits d la Udc. 
 
 Take the fillets of five rabbits, and make some 
 quenelles with the legs and inside fillets, seasoned 
 rather high ; then split the fillets in two, (first 
 cutting one side of the fillet so as to make it wider, 
 and then the other side) ; when the fillet is very 
 wide, spread some salt and pepper lightly over it, 
 then put some of the quenelles in the aperture ; 
 then wrap up the fillets together to hide the 
 quenelles; have some sauce d'attelet the same as 
 the fillets d la pompadour, crumb it in the same 
 manner, and fry it of a very good colour in a 
 
262 
 
 frittee, (not too hot), allowing space enough to the 
 fillets and the quenelles to be thoroughly done. 
 This is a very good and delicate dish, but requires 
 great care to bring it to perfection ; serve under it 
 a very clear Italienne brune , well seasoned. 
 
 N.B. Make the fillets as flat as you can, because 
 they are more easy to dress on the dish. 
 
 No. 30 .—Rabbit Pie. 
 
 Put into the bottom of a baking dish a few sliees 
 of ham, veal, or beef; cut the rabbit into as many 
 bits as you like; season each bit with salt, pepper, 
 pounded spices, &c.; put them in a dish as close as 
 possible ; add a glass of broth if you have any, if 
 not, a wine glass of water and a drop of white 
 wine; cover this dish hermetically with a good 
 crust, and bake it in a hot oven for an hour 
 and a half, then use it; whether hot or cold you 
 will find this dish very good. If you would give 
 the crust a good appearance, you must mould one 
 whole egg in a gallipot, and beating it with a brush, 
 dress the paste with it all over. 
 
 / 
 
CHAP. XII. 
 
 HARES AND LEVERETS. 
 
 It is proper to observe, that hares are fit to be 
 sent up to a nobleman's table, only when they still 
 shew their age. In order to judge of their age, 
 feel the first joint of the fore claw : if you find a 
 small nut, the animal is still young: should this 
 nut have disappeared, turn the claw sideways, and 
 if the joint crack, that is a sign of its being still 
 tender ; if not, it is only fit to be made en daube , 
 or en civet: but if very tough, a daube is prefer¬ 
 able ; yet it is a very insignificant dish, particu¬ 
 larly as it requires high seasoning; it is too 
 nourishing to be sent up to the table of any noble¬ 
 man, or of a real epicure. 
 
 No. 1 .—Hare en Daube. 
 
 After having skinned, emptied, and washed off 
 the blood of a hare, cut it through the middle. 
 Have ready layers of bacon well seasoned with 
 chopped parsley, spices, salt, and pepper. Lard 
 the hare as thick as you can ; put slices of bacon 
 into the bottom of a stew-pan, cover them with the 
 bits of hare, tie up a large bundle of parsley, sea¬ 
 soned with thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, a clove, 
 
264 
 
 and common spices, a few carrots, four large white 
 onions, two calf's feet, and a few pieces of breast 
 of bacon ; season the whole with salt, pepper, &c. 
 and a few roots of parsley. Moisten with a couple 
 of spoonsful of broth, and a pint of white wine ; 
 cover the whole with a round of buttered paper, 
 to prevent the hare from getting dry : close it her¬ 
 metically, and let it stew for three hours as gently 
 as possible: then take it off the fire; drain the 
 hare ; skim the liquor, strain it through a silk sieve, 
 and let it cool, that it may be eaten cold, though it 
 may be served hot, with a garnish all round. In 
 this latter case make a roux with a little flour and 
 butter; when of a very light colour, moisten it 
 with the liquor in which the hare has been stewed, 
 and let it boil enough for the flour to be done, and 
 then send it up, plain as it is. To make potted 
 hare proceed as above. When the hare is stewed, 
 remove the vegetables and the bones, take all the 
 flesh, as well as the bacon, place it in a mortar and 
 pound it very fine; when you find it becomes 
 smooth, rub it through a sieve, then put this paste 
 in some small pot, and place it in the oven covered 
 with paper ; when it becomes very hot, take it out, 
 and let it cool; melt some butter, and pour it over 
 the paste to prevent its drying, and cover it with 
 paper to preserve it. This is a very good thing 
 for breakfast or luncheon. 
 
 N.B. —If you wish the jelly to look bright, break 
 a couple of eggs into it, before it is hot; beat it 
 over the fire till it begins boiling, then Jay it aside 
 with a cover and a little fire over it; when limpid, 
 drain it through a cloth, and let it cool, to be used 
 occasionally. 
 
 No. 2.— Civet of Hare , served as Soup. 
 
 Skin and empty the hare, but take care not to 
 
265 
 
 waste the blood. Cut off the two legs, and divide 
 them into two or three pieces; cut the body into 
 equal pieces; be particular in preserving the blood, 
 to be used as follows. Take half a pound of the 
 breast of bacon, cut it into small square pieces 
 about an inch thick, blanch them in water, and put 
 them into the stew-pan, with a small lump of but¬ 
 ler ; let them fry till they are of a fine brown ; take 
 out the bacon, and put the pieces of hare into the 
 stew-pan ; stew them in the butter till firm; then 
 take them out and make a roux , with a little flour, 
 which must not be kept too long on the fire. 
 Moisten with about a quart of broth and a pint of 
 red wine; put in the pieces of hare, the bacon, a 
 bunch of parsley, &c. seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 spices, and a few white onions, to give a relish, to¬ 
 gether with some trimmings of mushrooms. Let 
 the whole boil for an hour, and try whether the 
 pieces of hare are done. Skim the fat off the sauce ; 
 then put the members into a clean stew-pan, one 
 after another, as also the bacon ; then skim the 
 sauce well, reduce it to a good substance, that it 
 may stick round the hare; and put the sauce over 
 the members through a tammy. You must have 
 ready some white onions fried in butter till they 
 are of a light brown ; then stew them in a little 
 consomme. Have likewise some mushrooms stewed 
 in butter, and put them with the onions to take off 
 the butter. Now the blood and liver, that have 
 been kept apart, are to be poured into the sauce as 
 thickening. \ ou must not let the sauce boil, or 
 else the blood would in some measure curdle, and 
 the sauce would not be of the same dark brown 
 colour. Civet must appear as black as possible: 
 then put in the onions and mushrooms, and seftd 
 up highly seasoned. The consomme in which vou 
 
 N 
 
have boiled the onions and the mushrooms, must 
 be reduced, and put with the sauce. 
 
 Sometimes you take all the flesh of the worst 
 bits, as the shoulders, the legs, the head, &e. 
 leaving merely the back, cut in four or five pieces, 
 then take out the bones; pound the flesh very fine, 
 and rub it through a tammy moistened with the 
 sauce. In this case, you should pound the onions, 
 mushrooms, &c., and warm the soup in the bain 
 marie , leaving in it, however, the best pieces of 
 the fillets. This is a delicious soup. 
 
 No. 3.— Fillets of Hare , with the Blood. 
 
 When a hare has been skinned, thrust your knife 
 all along the spine, always taking care to lean 
 towards the bone. Detach with your fingers, the 
 fillet from the neck down to the legs ; leave the 
 thick fleshy part to the leg; then introduce your 
 knife, the sharp side towards the tender part of the 
 fillet, and your thumb towards the skin ; press with 
 your thumb on the sharp side of the blade of the 
 knife, in order that it may not cut the part which 
 contains the sinews; then pull towards you the 
 fillet, and the sinew will remain attached to the 
 leg. This operation being performed, lay the 
 fillets on the table, and flatten them with the back 
 of your knife; marie them in a saute pan with 
 melted butter, and dust a little salt and pepper 
 over them. At dinner-time sautez the fillets, drain 
 the butter, and scollop the fillets; put the fillets into 
 a sauce de civet , which you have made with the 
 remnants, as it will require at least a couple of hares 
 to make scollops. Mind you preserve the blood 
 of both, in order that the sauce may be black, 
 or of a dark brown. The members may serve for 
 soup. When you wish to make soup, take the 
 
U6l 
 
 parts from which you have cut the fillets , and make 
 a civet; the sauce is to be made by the same 
 process. (See Civet above.) 
 
 The best and shortest method is to saute the 
 fillets whole, and scollop them after they are finished; 
 it is better, as it retains the gravy, and is made 
 quicker. 
 
 No. 4 .—Fillets of Hare en Chevreuil. 
 
 Take the fillets of three hares, according to the 
 size of your dish, detach the fillets, and lard them 
 with bacon cut very equally, then put them into a 
 deep vessel, with salt and pepper, a little parsley, 
 two onions cut into slices, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, 
 a glass of vinegar, and half a glass of water. Let all 
 this be marinaded for a couple of days, and then 
 drain the fillets, and mark them in a saute- pan, 
 with a little butter: bake them under-done, and 
 glaze them with a light glaze, as they are always 
 dark enough. Send them up with a poivrade 
 under. 
 
 You should observe what has already been no¬ 
 ticed, that larded is not the proper word, piqie is the 
 term, as larded is when you lard the meat quite 
 through, but pique is what is seen every day at the 
 poulterers. 
 
 No. 5.—Pain of Hares, Boudins of Hares, roasted 
 
 Hares. 
 
 The author will merely remark, that boudins, que¬ 
 nelles, minces, &c. can be made of hares, although in 
 England it is more customary to serve them roast¬ 
 ed. They are, however, very good when dressed 
 as entrees. Hares for roasting ought always to be 
 tender. After being skinned, make a stuffing in 
 the following manner: take a good handful of 
 
 N 2 
 
208 
 
 crumbs of bread, with the same quantity of beef- 
 suet well chopped, a little chopped parsley, a little 
 thyme, salt, pepper, two eggs, a little butter, a 
 little milk, and a shalot; mix up these well into 
 an oval shape, with which stuff’ the belly of the 
 hare, and sew it up. Stick the fore legs under the 
 belly, and double the hind legs under the belly 
 also, then skewer them well ; the head stands erect 
 as if the hare was running ; skin the ears. If it is 
 an old hare, it will be good for nothing; if young, 
 three-quarters of an hour will do it. Serve it up 
 with gravy, and some currant jelly in a sauce-boat; 
 mind that you stop the spit with the belly towards 
 the fire, or else the stuffing will not be hone. Some 
 persons like a poivrade under it. (See Brown 
 Sharp Sauce.) 
 
 No. 6 .—Hare Soup. 
 
 Take two hares, young ones are the best; skin 
 them, and wash the inside well; separate the 
 limbs, legs, shoulders, &c. and put them into a 
 stew-pan with two or three glasses of port wine, two 
 onions stuck with four cloves, a bundle of parsley, 
 a bay-leaf, a couple of sprigs of thyme, ditto of 
 sweet basil, marjoram, and a few blades of mace : 
 put the whole over a slow fire on the stove. When 
 it has simmered for an hour, moisten with some 
 very good boiling broth, till the meat is entirely 
 covered with it; then let the whole simmer gently 
 till the meat is quite done. Strain the meat, put 
 the broth through a hair sieve; put the crumb of 
 a two-penny loaf to soak in the broth. Take 
 all the flesh of the hare from the bones, and pound 
 it in a mortar till fine enough to be rubbed through 
 a sieve, moisten with the broth, and season accord¬ 
 ing to your palate. You must not make the soup 
 
269 
 
 too thick: and be particularly careful, when you 
 have occasion to warm it up again, not to let it 
 boil, as boiling spoils it. 
 
 Observe, whenever you wish to make hare soup in 
 perfection, you should preserve all the blood in a 
 basin; when you are ready to serve up keep the 
 soup vei’y hot, and pour the blood to it till it 
 is thickened. Take care that the soup does not 
 curdle. This addition will make the soup black- 
 Do the same with the scollops, &c. 
 
 No. 7.— Another way of making Hare Soup. 
 
 On another occasion, you may select some of the 
 best pieces, as the rump, shoulders, &c. ; as soon 
 as they are done enough, take out what you intend 
 to put whole into the soup, and put it into a 
 stew-pan with some of the liquor, to prevent it 
 from drying and getting black. When your soup 
 is quite ready, and you are going to serve up, put 
 the reserved members into the tureen, and pour 
 the soup over. See another method, No. 2. 
 
 Entrees of red-legged Partridges , or Bartavelles. 
 
 This sort of partridge is very scarce in England ; 
 when you meet with them, cook them in the same 
 manner as the other partridges. 
 
 Quails and Cailleteaux. 
 
 The cailleteaux are young quails, but owing to 
 their enormous price in England, they are very 
 seldom, if ever, to be procured at the poulterers. 
 An entree of fillets of young quails, besides its 
 costing too dear, is never attempted; the expense 
 would be extravagant, without any other merit. 
 
 Quails in my opinion have no flavour, and from 
 the circumstance of confinement and bad feeding 
 
270 
 
 are never very fat; it is only their rarity that makes 
 them fashionable. 
 
 No. 1 .—Compotteof Quails. 
 
 Take six or eight quails, according to the size 
 of your dish. Cut the claws off, empty the birds, 
 without making too large an opening. Truss 
 them enpoule, that is to say, with the legs inward. 
 Have a dozen pieces of bacon cut into the shape 
 of corks, blanch them in order to draw the salt 
 out: then let them fry in butter till they are of a 
 light brown; next take them out of the stew-pan 
 to make room for the quails, which stew till they 
 begin to be of a light brown also, and then take 
 them out. Make a roux, which moisten with a 
 ladleful of gravy of veal; add a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions, some small white onions (if 
 approved of), mushrooms, Sic. As soon as the 
 quails are done, take them out of the stew-pan, 
 and let the bacon stew till thoroughly done. Skim 
 the sauce well, and strain it through a tammy over 
 the quails: then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and 
 small onions, and send up quite hot and well 
 seasoned. This dish will not do for an English 
 dinner. 
 
 No. 2 .—Compotte of Quails, white. 
 
 This is made in the same manner as the compotte 
 of partridges, with the only difference that you use 
 broth instead of gravy of veal; thicken the sauce 
 with yolks of eggs, and serve the onions white, the 
 same as the mushrooms, &c. 
 
 No, 3 .—Quails with Peas. 
 
 Empty, singe, and truss six nice quails ; put 
 them into a stew-pan wrapped up in layers of 
 bacon: moisten with a po'cle, if you have any; 
 
if not, with two spoonsful of broth, a bunch 
 of parsley, seasoned with bay-leaves, thyme, a 
 clove, &c. Stew them for twenty minutes over a 
 very slow fire. Drain them well, and let them boil 
 for a moment with the peas and bacon. (See 
 Sauces , Green Peas, brown , or white.) Next dish 
 them, and reduce the peas, which, the quails having 
 been boiled in it, would be too thin to mask with. 
 
 No. 4. —Quails an Gratin. 
 
 Bone six quails, pick them nicely : take a little 
 farce fine, or quenelle, made in preference with the 
 fleshof young rabbits; fillthebodies of thequails with 
 the said farce: then raise a kind of dome on a dish, 
 and with a spoon make room for the birds: next 
 make an opening in the middle; let it be either 
 round or square, according to the shape of the dish. 
 Put a sweetmeat pot within the opening ; cover 
 the birds with layers of bacon, and put the dish 
 into the oven for about a quarter of an hour, 
 or twenty minutes at most, till the birds are done. 
 Drain the fat carefully, take out the pot ; then 
 take six slices of bread cut into the shape of cocks’- 
 combs, which you fry in butter till they are of 
 a light brown, and put them one by one between 
 the birds. Serve a ragout d la financiere in the 
 middle, and mask * the birds and the gratin with a 
 good Espagnole well reduced. 
 
 No. 5.—Quails d la Bourguignotte. 
 
 Mark the quails as directed No. 3 : when done, 
 drain them well, and let them boil for a couple of 
 minutes in the bourguignotte (see Sauces ) ; leave 
 them in the sauce during an hour, when the stew- 
 
 Muk, signifies cover with the sauce. 
 
 * 
 
pan is to be put au bain marie , that the birds may 
 taste of the sauce and truffles. 
 
 No. 6.— Quails a la Crapaudine. 
 
 These are dressed and cooked in the same man¬ 
 ner as pigeons, or partridges a la crapaudine. Serve 
 them up with an Italienne , or a consomme a qlace 
 over them 
 
 Woodcocks and Snipes. 
 
 Woodcocks, the same as snipes, are good only 
 when they are fat. They are cooked but in very 
 few ways. The most delicate parts are the legs 
 and the intestines. The fillets of woodcocks, for 
 those persons who do not like their meat under¬ 
 done, are tough and without savour. They are 
 held in high estimation when roasted, or en salmi. 
 A puree of woodcocks is also served occasionally. 
 They may, however, be dressed in as many ways 
 as young partridges. When roasted, you must 
 always put a toast under them, to receive the 
 intestines, which generally drop out while roasting, 
 unless paper is used to secure them. Take care 
 to stop the spit when the back is towards the fire, 
 because the legs are to be well done, and the fillets 
 under-done. 
 
 No. 1 .—Salmi of Woodcocks. 
 
 Hie same operation is required as for the salmi 
 of partridges. Instead of boiling the trimmings in 
 the sauce, take out the members, as you do in the 
 salmi of partridges, and pound the remainder and 
 trimmings in a mortar, till you can strain it 
 through a tammy. When you have skimmed the 
 
273 
 
 fat from the sauce, and given a good seasoning, 
 moisten the pounded meat with it; then strain it 
 through a tammy, and put it over the legs in a 
 bain marie. The salmi must be made hot, but 
 without boiling. Serve up with it slices ot fried 
 bread cut into hearts and glazed. 
 
 No. 2.— Salmi of Woodcocks a V Espagnole. 
 
 If you have any roasted woodcocks left, cut them 
 as for eating; mark the members in a stew pan ; 
 make a sauce as for salmi of partridges: put the 
 parings into the sauce to boil for an hour: when 
 the sauce has been well skimmed and there is no fat 
 left, strain it through a tammy over the members. 
 Let it be made hot without boiling, and serve up 
 with slices of fried bread between the members. 
 This salmi will be good only if the birds are not 
 too much done; when game is over-done, it is of 
 no value as good cookery ; this salmi, when re¬ 
 turned from the table, makes excellent hachis d la 
 turc, ox puree of game. When dinner comes down, 
 remove the sauce and put the members in a plate; 
 the next day place all the flesh in a mortar, and 
 when well pounded, mix with it the same sauce ; 
 add to it a little Espagnole, or consomme; rub this 
 through a tammy, and warm it at dinner time in 
 the bain marie , and serve in a volau vent , a cas- 
 serolle au ris, ox pates. 
 
 No. 3 . — Crouslade of Puree of IVoodcoc/cs. 
 
 If you have any salmi of woodcocks left, drain 
 all the sauce, mince the flesh well, and pound it in 
 a mortar; then moisten it with the sauce, and 
 warm it, to know whether the puree is too thin or 
 too thick: then strain it through a tammy, and 
 put it au bain marie; then work it with a small 
 lump of very fresh butter. Cut eight slices of 
 
 n 3 
 
bread into hearts all of an equal size: try them on 
 the dish, to see whether they form a regular flower; 
 then cut another slice quite round to put in the 
 middle over the points of the hearts: this com¬ 
 pleted, make a deep incision all round the upper 
 part, without, however, its being cut through; 
 then try them in clarified butter till of a light 
 brown : as soon as they are fried, cut the middle 
 out, to leave as little crumb as possible. Keep them 
 hot, well wrapped up in a clean sheet of paper. 
 When ready to serve up, work the puree , and 
 pour it into the croustade. 
 
 You may send up this puree in a bord de plat 
 with poached eggs, or in a vul au vent , 
 
 No. 4 .—Salmi of Woodcocks a la Lucullus. 
 
 For this dish, you must be particular in having 
 the woodcocks very under-done ; then take out the 
 intestines, and with the addition of two or three fat 
 livers of fowls, make the fo 11 owing farce: 
 
 Take a dozen of mushrooms chopped very fine, 
 a shallot and some parsley, the same; fry these 
 herbs in a small bit of butter; when they are 
 nearly done, put the bit livers, and the intestines 
 of the woodcocks, to fry with them; and when 
 done, put the whole into a mortar, and pound the 
 whole very fine ; season with salt and pepper, &c.; 
 then, as three woodcocks give you six fillets, cut six 
 bits of bread of the same shape, fry them of a nice 
 colour ; then spread the farce equally* divided over 
 the six croustades of bread ; put them into the 
 oven, and when they are of a good colour, serve 
 them between each of the fillets ; as for the sauce, 
 you make it with the trimmings as usual for salmi; 
 this, well managed, is a delicious dish. The sauce 
 must be made early, so as to keep the fillets in it 
 to prevent them from drying: then warm them 
 
215 
 
 without boiling, for boiling would make the dish 
 good for nothing. 
 
 No. 1.— Plovers. 
 
 Plovers are hardly fit for any thing but roasting. 
 Sometimes, however, they are prepared d la boar- 
 guignotte , which is indeed the only way of mak¬ 
 ing a rago&t of plovers. In this latter case, empty 
 and truss them as neatly as possible: marie them 
 in a stew-pan with layers of bacon; moisten them 
 with a little poele or with broth ; when done 
 enough, let them simmer a little in a bnurgu/g- 
 notte , and serve up hot with a garnish. See Blur- 
 guignotte in the sauces. 
 
 No. 2.— Capilottadc of Plovers. 
 
 If you have any roasted plovers left, and are 
 short of an entree , cut them in halves and pare 
 them : flay them, put them into a stew-pan with 
 two spoonsful of Italienne , a glass of white wine, 
 a little salt and pepper. Let them simmer for one 
 hour, and dish them with fried slices of bread 
 between. Skim the sauce, squeeze the juice of 
 a lemon, and masle the members with the sauce. 
 This dish must be highly seasoned. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 There are pigeons of various sorts; namely, 
 tame pigeons, Avild pigeons, and wood pigeons. 
 The former are most in use, although wild pigeons 
 are good either boiled or roasted; but if made 
 ragouts or fricassees of, their flesh is too black. 
 Small pigeons d la gautier or squabbs, are of great 
 service for garnishing, but they make very indif- 
 
276 
 
 ferent entrees , as they are seldom well prepared by 
 the poulterer in this country. 
 
 No. 1.— Compotte of Pigeons, brown. 
 
 Take four or six pigeons, according to the size 
 of your dish ; after having picked them clean, cut 
 off the sinew below the joint of the leg: empty 
 them without taking out the liver, but feel with 
 your finger if there is any grain left in the paunch. 
 Truss the legs inwards, and make an incision in the 
 back, that they may disgorge. Then put them 
 into a stew-pan with some lukewarm water, to draw 
 out the blood: next marl: them in layers of bacon, 
 and stew them as you would do chickens. When 
 done, drain them, and send up with a ragout a la 
 financiere. 
 
 No. 2.— Compotte of Pigeons & la Paysanne. 
 
 Truss your pigeons as above, and wash them 
 clean in warm water. Cut half a pound of 
 breast of bacon into small slices of about an 
 inch ; blanch them first, and then put them into 
 a stew-pan with a small bit of butter; when they 
 are of a nice light brown, take them out to make 
 room for the pigeons, and when they are become 
 firm, take them out also. Throw a good spoonful 
 of flour into the fat that is in the stew-pan, and 
 let it become of alight brown colour; then pour 
 either a little broth or warm water into it to dilute 
 the flour; season with salt, pepper, spices, a bunch 
 of parsley and green onions, a few mushrooms, 
 and some small white onions. Then put the 
 pigeons into this sauce, and let the whole stew 
 gently. Next skim off the grease, put the pigeons 
 into another stew-pan, with all the ingredients to 
 garnish them nicely. Reduce the sauce, and strain 
 
m 
 
 it through a tammy over the pigeons; serve up hot: 
 add to it a small bit of glaze to give more flavour 
 to this dish. 
 
 No. 2.—Pigeons a la Crapaudine. 
 
 Pick the pigeons, cut off the claws, truss them 
 with the legs inwards, and then with your left 
 hand press on the breast, and scollop one half of 
 the flesh of the breast: turn it down on the table, 
 flatten it well with your knife, dust it over with salt 
 and pepper, break the yolks of two eggs into a 
 plate, brush the pigeons all over with them, then 
 dip them into crumbs of bread, next into melted 
 butter, then into crumbs of bread again, which 
 you level as smooth as possible. Now broil the 
 pigeons on a slow fire, that they may get 
 thoroughly done without being burnt. Ascertain 
 when they are done enough, by thrusting the 
 point of your knife into the fleshy part of the leg. 
 If no blood issues, then they are done enough. 
 Serve under them an Italicnne , or some rich 
 gravy. This being a common entree , I shall ex¬ 
 plain a method of making a sauce piquante in a 
 moment. 
 
 Sauce piquante .—Chop a dozen of shalots, 
 which put into a stew-pan with two spoonsful of 
 vinegar ; boil till there is no vinegar left: then put 
 in a little broth, or gravy of roast meat, with rasp¬ 
 ings of bread, salt, pepper, &c. Let this boil for 
 a short time, pour it over the pigeons, and send up 
 hot; if you put to it a small bit of glaze or portable 
 soup, it will give it a good taste. 
 
 No. 4 .—Pigeons au Soleil. 
 
 Truly these are not well named, for they shine 
 but very little indeed. It is an entree of desserte , 
 and that is saying enough. If you have any 
 
278 
 
 pigeons left, either roasted or otherwise, cut them 
 in two, and put them into a marinade. (See No. 
 39, page 222. Entrees of Fowl.) When they 
 have simmered for half an hour in the marinade , 
 let them cool, drain them, and put them into a 
 paste for frying. (See page 150.) Fry them of 
 a good colour, and serve up. with fried parsley in 
 » the middle, if you like, or a poivrade , or a sauce 
 piquante. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 5.— Cutlets of Pigeons a la d' Armagnac. 
 
 Take eight pigeons, as you may make one 
 entree with the loins and legs, and another with 
 the fillets. Take the flesh off the breasts, and 
 make a farce of it, with the same quantity of calf’s 
 udder, or calf’s suet ready boiled, but somewhat 
 less of the panada. Put the whole into a mortar, 
 but observe that with the panada , plenty of herbs, 
 shalots, parsley, mushrooms, &c. are required. 
 When the farce has been well pounded, use a 
 couple of eggs to give it more substance : then 
 bake a little bit in a tartlet mould, in order to taste 
 whether it is sufficiently seasoned. Spread the 
 whole on a plafond well buttered, and very even, 
 about the thickness of a mutton chop; then let it 
 cool. When cold, either with a cutter or with 
 your knife, cut the minced meat into the shape of 
 cudets, without however detaching it from the 
 plafond: this being done, put the plafond over 
 something hot, merely to melt the butter. Then 
 take the bones out of the pinions, which scrape 
 well, and stick them into the extremity of the 
 mock cutlets ; dip them into an omelette , and into 
 crumbs of bread, and fry them ; but do not let 
 the dripping be too hot, that the cutlets may have 
 sufficient time to be done through without being 
 burnt. Dish the cutlets en miroton, with either 
 
21 9 
 
 fried parsley, or an Italienne in the middle; send 
 a brown Italienne separately in a boat. 
 
 No. 6. — Cutlets of Pigeons a la Marechale. 
 
 Take the fillets of eight pigeons, flatten them 
 with the back of your knife, scrape the bone of the 
 pinion, and stick it into the point of the cutlet; 
 dip the cutlets into melted butter: after having 
 seasoned them with salt and pepper, dip them 
 once only into crumbs of bread, but very even 
 and smooth ; broil them till they are of a nice colour, 
 and send them up with rich gravy, or an Italienne , 
 or the marechale sauce. 
 
 No. 7.— Pigeons a la Toulouse. 
 
 Pick, empty, truss, and singe six young pigeons : 
 mark them in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of 
 bacon: moisten with a little po'ele; let them stew 
 for sixteen or twenty minutes. Then drain and 
 dish them ; mask them with a ragout d, la Tou¬ 
 louse. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 8.— Pigeons a la Financiers. 
 
 For this entree you must procure young pigeons 
 d lagautier or squabbs : singe them slightly. Melt 
 about half a pound of butter, squeeze the juice of 
 a lemon into the butter, and then let the pigeons 
 be fried lightly over the fire twice or three times 
 only. Then put the pigeons into a stew-pan 
 trimmed with layers of bacon; pour the melted 
 butter and lemon-juice over them, and then cover 
 them well: it is also requisite to pour in a spoonful 
 of poele , to prevent their frying. Sweat them for a 
 quarter of an hour over an equal fire, and drain 
 them ; dish them nicely, and cover them with a 
 financiere sauce. Mind to have them well dis- 
 
280 
 
 gorged of all their blood before you put them into 
 the butter. 
 
 No. 9-— Pigeons a VAspic clair. 
 
 Take six pigeons a la gautier , which cook as 
 those above, No. 8. When done, dish them with 
 large craw-fish between each pigeon, and use the 
 aspic for sauce. 
 
 No. 10.— Pigeons cooked in all Manner of Ways. 
 
 As the author does not pretend to make a shew of 
 extraordinary knowledge, bv introducing a multipli¬ 
 city of names, and of entrees which are no longer in 
 fashion, he will only observe, that pigeons in 
 general are rather used for garnitures than for en¬ 
 trees. In the first case, they are prepared as directed 
 in No. 8. They may be dressed with peas, white or 
 brown, marinade, or love-apple sauce, &c. he. 
 The only science consists in preserving their white 
 colour. The shape is always the same ; and with 
 respect to the sauce, every one has his choice and 
 taste. 
 
 For the godard, or the chambord , as also for 
 the generality of great garnitures , pigeons d la 
 gautier are requisite. 
 
 A pigeon pie is a very plain dish, which is left 
 to the management of common female cooks. To 
 make a pigeon pie, put a few thin slices of beef in 
 a dish, and the pigeons over them, well seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, and spices, the yolks of a few 
 eggs within the intervals, and a spoonful of broth ; 
 cover the whole with plain paste, or with puff- 
 paste, he. he. 
 
 Pucks, Wild Ducks, 4' c - 
 Ducks are fit to be sent up for entrees, only 
 
281 
 
 when they begin to be plump; they are good to¬ 
 wards November, when they are plump and fat; 
 but those that are sold in London in May* June, 
 or July, are nothing but skin and bone. Ducks, 
 the same as woodcocks, require the fillets to be 
 under done; but in that case the legs would be 
 nearly raw, as they require a much longer time to 
 do. Care must therefore be taken to stop the spit 
 when the back is turned towards the fire. The 
 legs and breast, by this means, will be equally 
 done. 
 
 No. 1 .—Duck with Turnips. 
 
 After having emptied, trussed, and singed the 
 duck, mark it between layers of bacon, and mois¬ 
 ten either with a poele, or broth, with a little salt. 
 Stew the duck for three-quarters of an hour if it is 
 a young one; if old or tough, it will require an 
 hour: when done, drain it, and let it simmer in 
 turnip sauce to take the taste of turnips. When 
 ducks begin to grow old, by keeping them a few 
 days, they become tender; roast the duck of a nice 
 colour. When under-done, cut it in five parts, 
 the two wings, the two legs, and the breast; cut 
 six turnips in the shape of olives, fry them in 
 butter with a little powdered sugar, to give them 
 a good colour ; when they have got a good colour, 
 mix a spoonful of flour with them ; moisten with 
 half broth and half gravy of veal ; season with 
 salt and a little pepper, a bundle of parsley, and 
 green onions; skim ; when the turnips are done, 
 put them into a stew-pan separately, and put a 
 very little sauce with them. In the remainder of 
 the sauce boil the duck till well done; then 
 skim off the fat, reduce the sauce, and serve all 
 together. 
 
No. 2.— Duck with small Green Peas. 
 
 Piepare and cook the duck as above. When 
 done, lay it with the green peas. When the duck 
 is too large, it is not to be served whole, but cut 
 into four or five pieces ; namely, the breast, the 
 two wings, which otherwise are called fillets, the 
 two legs, and the back. Pare all the members 
 pioperly, and make the sauce in the following way: 
 take two quarts of very fine fresh green peas, put 
 them into a pan with clean water, and half a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter ; mix the butter 
 up with the peas, drain the peas by taking them 
 out of the water with your hand, otherwise all the 
 dirt would go into the cullender; let them dry; 
 next put info a stew-pan half a pound of the best 
 part of a breast of bacon, cut in squares of an inch, 
 and a very small bit of fresh butter; fry the bacon 
 of a nice colour, then drain the fat, and put in the 
 peas to sweat gently. When they are all very 
 green, put half a spoonful of flour, and moisten 
 with boiling water. Add the members of the duck, 
 with some salt, and a little pepper, a very small 
 bit of sugar, and a bundle of parsley and green 
 onions. When the duck is done, serve the mem¬ 
 bers covered with the peas, and take great care 
 to skim off the fat. 
 
 No. 3.— Duck with the puree of Green Peas. 
 
 Prepare the duck as above, and send it up with 
 a puree of green peas over it, (see Puree verte ) or 
 with a hochepot. (See Hochepot .) 
 
 No. 4.— Ducklings a la Bigarade. 
 
 This entree requires plump fleshy ducks: pick, 
 empty, and truss them well, with the legs stuck 
 
283 
 
 upwards. First roast them under-done, and make 
 incisions in the breast, what the French call aiguil¬ 
 lettes ; pour the gravy that issues from the duck 
 into the sauce, w hich must be ready made, in order 
 that you may send up quickly ; a thing to be par¬ 
 ticularly attended to. With respect to the appro¬ 
 priate sauce, see Sauces. If you are allowed to 
 serve up fillets only, then you must have three 
 ducklings at least. Roast them under-done ; when 
 properly done cut them into aiguillettes , that is, 
 four out of each duck ; put them into the sauce 
 with the gravy that runs from them, and send up 
 without loss of time, and quite hot. As soon as 
 you have put the aiguillettes into the sauce, squeeze 
 a little juice of bigarade (bitter orange) over the 
 whole ; keep stirring well, and serve up the fillets 
 in the sauce. This is a dish for an epicure of the 
 daintiest palate. Do not think of dishing it en 
 couronne, to give it a better appearance, but send it' 
 up in the sauce, and they who eat it will fare all 
 the better. Mignonette , or coarse pepper, is re¬ 
 quired in this sauce, and the entree altogether must 
 be highly seasoned. Before roasting the duck, 
 blanch a handful of sage with a couple of onions 
 cut into quarters; chop them ; season them with a 
 little salt and pepper, and stuff* the duck; by so 
 doing, it will acquire additional savour. 
 
 No. 5 .—Salmi of Wild Duck. 
 
 If you roast a duck on purpose, let it be under¬ 
 done. Pare it whilst hot, and let the parings sim¬ 
 mer in the sauce. Then strain the sauce through 
 a tammy over the members, and let them be made 
 hot without boiling. The sauce is made in the 
 same manner as that of the salmi of partridges, 
 or as follows: cut four shalots into several pieces, 
 a small bit of ham, a few bits of carrot, some 
 
284 
 
 parsley roots, thyme, bay-leaf, three cloves, a few 
 blades of mace, five allspice, and a small bit of 
 butter; fry all this in a stew-pan till the ham has 
 acquired a little colour, then put a little flour to it, 
 fry it a little more to do the Hour ; moisten with a 
 glass of wine, either red or white, a ladleful of 
 good veal gravy, and salt and pepper; put all 
 the trimmings of the duck to boil with this sauce; 
 skim off" all the fat, reduce the sauce, and put it 
 over the members through a tammy, to warm 
 them only; when you send up, squeeze the juice 
 of a lemon over. This entree, must be highly sea¬ 
 soned ; add a little Cayenne, and do not let the 
 members boil. 
 
 No. 6.— Members of Duck, with the puree of 
 Lentilles. 
 
 Poele the members as directed in No. 1. Drain 
 them, and mask them with the puree of lentilles. 
 (See Puree of Lentilles.) 
 
 No. 7.— Duck with Olives. 
 
 This entree is admired only by the Italians. 
 Poele the ducks as directed in No. J. Pour over 
 them the sauce aux olives, which in my opinion is 
 no great treat. Take a bottle of French or Italian 
 olives, cut the kernel out, but mind to preserve the 
 shape of the olive; blanch them in boiling water 
 to take off the salt: if they are not too briny, put 
 them into a very good Espagnole sauce, with the 
 juice of a lemon, and a little Cayenne. Serve this 
 sauce with duck only. 
 
 No. 8.— Capilottade of Duck. 
 
 If you have any roasted ducks left, and are called 
 upon for one entree more, cut the ducks as for 
 eating, flay them, and let them simmer in a thin 
 
285 
 
 Itulienne. Fry a few slices of bread cut into the 
 shape of a kite, and send up with the juice of a 
 lemon. 
 
 If you should not have any ltalienne ready, 
 mince a few shalots, boil them in vinegar, make a 
 little browning (roux,) which you moisten with 
 broth or even water, and mix a little glaze sea¬ 
 soned with salt and pepper: put the shalots into 
 the sauce ; let it boil a few minutes; then put the 
 duck into the sauce to heat, but without boiling, 
 and give it a high seasoning. Such common dishes 
 are always to be highly seasoned. 
 
 A general Observation relative to Cookery .— 
 Any thing which has been roasted before, if boiled, 
 will become tough : do not therefore allow it to 
 boil if you would have it tender, except in the case 
 of a common hachi , which the longer it boils, the 
 better. 
 
 Larks. 
 
 No 1 .—Larks an gratin 
 
 Take eighteen larks, as fat as possible; pick and 
 bone them; next, season them with salt and pepper, 
 and stuff them with a farce fine , or a farce d. que¬ 
 nelles ; the former, however, is preferable. Dish 
 them nicely, and put some of the farce into the 
 dish. Put slices of fried bread cut whimsically be¬ 
 
 tween the birds, so 
 
 When 
 
 or so 
 
 the larks are put all round the dish, if there are any 
 left put them into the middle; but these iatter 
 are to be raised higher than the rest. Cover the 
 whole with layers of bacon, and leave it in the 
 oven for twenty minutes. Then take off the bacon, 
 
286 
 
 drain the fat, and serve up with an Epagnole 
 of a nice colour, and well seasoned. 
 
 No. 2 .—Caisses of Larks. 
 
 Bone the larks as above ; and stuff them with 
 farce fine. Have ready small paper cases dipped 
 into warm oil. Give the larks a round shape, put 
 into the cases some of the farce, and put the larks 
 over. Next put them on a plafond with some 
 fluttered paper over them, for fear they should dry 
 while baking. When baked enough, dish them. 
 I f there is room enough, pour into the cases a littlfe 
 Espagnole and lemon-juice ; mind to drain all the 
 fat out before you put in the sauce. 
 
 No. 3 .—Hot raised Pies of Larks. 
 
 Bone the larks as above : dress the pie-crust, put 
 t-h efarce in the bottom and the birds over the farce: 
 then fill the crust with farce, close the pie, but 
 leave a little hole at the top, to prevent the crust 
 from breaking. Let it be made of a light brown 
 colour. Vy hen done, take it out of the oven, take 
 off likewise the top crust, or cover, drain the fat, 
 then pour a ragout a la fin cindere into the pie. 
 Do not put the top crust on again : send up hot 
 widi high seasoning, which brown entrees require 
 more than white ones. 
 
 No. 4 .—Larks en Croustade. 
 
 This dish would find few admirers, as birds in 
 croustade, and even hot-raised pies, are very sel¬ 
 dom called for. The nobility of this country like 
 to see what they are eating ; they fear to meet with 
 something they do not like in a hot raised pie, 
 which they accordingly seldom touch. The reason 
 of it is obvious, and justifies their aversion : the 
 aforesaid hot pies being generally economical en- 
 
* rees > made of legs or such other parts of either 
 fowl or game. People in general never taste any 
 pan but the fillets. Larks in croustade must be 
 done beforehand. Put the birds into crouslades fried 
 of a light brown, the inside part of which you take 
 out with a cutter: into the vacuitv put first a little 
 farce, and the lark over it. Keep the birds hot 
 till you serve up. 
 
 Pheasajiis. 
 
 It is no easy matter to meet with a pheasant 
 possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired 
 only by long keeping. The damp of the climate 
 pi events their being kept so long as thev are in other 
 countries. 1 he hens in general are more delicate. 
 The cocks shew their age by their spurs. They 
 are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from 
 the bill, which is commonly six days or a week 
 after they have been killed. You may then either 
 roast, or make entrees of them. The flesh of a 
 pheasant is white, tender, and has a good savour if 
 you keep it long enough; if not, it has no more 
 savour than a common fowl, or a hen. 
 
 No. 1 .—Salmi of Pheasants d VEspagnole. 
 
 Those articles in general, which after having 
 ocen roasted, are to be put into a sauce, require to 
 be under-done, and especially pheasants. After 
 having trussed them nicely, spit them. They will 
 lie done in half an hour’s time. If small, take the 
 bird from the fire at the expiration of that time. 
 When cold, flay and cut it, as for eating, and put 
 the parings into the sauce d salmi. If you have 
 two pheasants, you must not use the legs, but to 
 give flavour; as the breast of a pheasant is gene- 
 
288 
 
 rally very fleshy, cut each side in three pieces, and 
 pare them of a nice shape, cut likewise some 
 slices of bread of the same shape and size, and fry 
 them of a nice brown ; put the flesh into a stew - 
 pan covered, to pi-event it from drying, and keep 
 the trimmings to put into the sauce as follows: cut 
 four shalots, a small bit of lean ham, some parsley- 
 roots, a small bit of carrot cut into dice, some 
 thyme, bay-leaf, six cloves, mace, ten grains of all¬ 
 spice, a small bit of butter ; fry all this in a stew- 
 pan till the ham has a good colour; if you have no 
 brown sauce, put a spoonful of flour ; moisten with 
 two glasses of Madeira and a ladleful of gravy of 
 veal; season with salt and pepper; put the trim¬ 
 mings to boil with this, and skim off’ all the fat; if 
 it should taste a little bitter, correct with a very 
 small bit of sugar. Keep this sauce thick enough 
 to cover the meat; put it over the flesh through 
 a tammy, and let it warm, but it must not boil. 
 This dish, when well made, is most excellent: if 
 you like to make it with truffles, put the trimmings 
 of them to boil with the sauce ; have some truffles 
 cut of the size of a nutmeg, and put them sepa¬ 
 rately to boil in clean sauce; when done, put the 
 sauce of the truffles with the other, and put the 
 truffles in the middle of the dish, when you send 
 the dinner up. 
 
 No. 2.—Croquettes of Pheasant. 
 
 The operation is the same as for all other cro¬ 
 quettes of fow l, or game ; it is only to be observed, 
 that croquettes of game must be stronger (i. e. 
 higher in flavour) than those of poultry. You 
 must not forget to mix a little glaze of game, 
 which makes the only difference. Serve up, gar¬ 
 nished with fried parsley. 
 
289 
 
 No. 3 .—Hachi of Pheasant a la Polonoise. 
 
 Use the same method as for hachis of poultry, 
 or of game. Garnish with poached eggs, but re¬ 
 member to put into it some of the glaze of game. 
 
 No. 4 .—Souffle of Pheasant. 
 
 See No. 14, page 239, Souffles of Partridges. 
 In general all entrees that are made of partridges, 
 may likewise be made of pheasants; such as au.v 
 choux , a la Monglas , a la Barbarie, otherwise en 
 petit deuil, d la Givey , d la Creme , &c. &c. 
 
 No. 5.—Cutlet of Pheasant an Fumet. 
 
 Take the fillets of three young pheasants, and 
 keep all the small bones to stick on the point of 
 each cutlet. Prepare six cutlets with each phea¬ 
 sant, two with the large fillets , and one w ith the 
 fillets mignons. Flatten and trim them of a good 
 shape, and crumb them as above-directed; broil 
 them, and serve under Italienne brune, or brown 
 fumet of game. 
 
 No. 6 *.—Escallopes of Fillets of Pheasant with 
 
 Truffles. 
 
 Take the fillets of two very young, but well 
 kept pheasants, do not use them when fresh killed, 
 as they have no fumet you may as well cook an 
 old fowd ; then put those fillets in asem/e-pan with 
 some melted butter, and put with them some 
 truffles cut in slices of the shape of a penny, of 
 vei’y moderate thickness; spread some salt over 
 lightly, and cover with a round of paper till dinner 
 time; when ready to serve up, put the sciutc- 
 pan on the fire, and do the fillets equally on both 
 sides. Then have a sheet of clean paper on the 
 table, scollop the fillets of equal shapes, and let the 
 
 o 
 
290 
 
 truffles fry alone a little longer; then put the 
 scolloped fillets once more together, and give them 
 a little turn over the fire; put the saute -pan on 
 one side, to drain the butter; with a hollow spoon 
 take the meat and truffles, and put them in a 
 bechamclle , after mixing some of the essence of 
 game and truffles. If you prepare this one hour 
 before dinner, the taste will be admirable:—sooner, 
 the flesh will turn red. 
 
291 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 FRESH-WATER FISH. 
 
 CARP. 
 
 No. ].—Broiled Carp with Caper Sauce. 
 
 You must never use fresh-water fish unless it is 
 alive, and you kill it yourself. When you have 
 given a few strokes on the carp’s head with a large 
 knife, thrust your knife under the scales, beginning 
 at the tail, and proceed to cut right and left. All 
 the scales on one side must come off’ at once, in a 
 piece. Then do the same on the other side, and 
 about the belly. When the scales have been taken 
 off properly, and none are left, the carp must be 
 white; then take off the gills, without damaging 
 the tongue, which is one of the most delicate parts 
 of the carp. Make a small incision in the neck, as 
 if you were going to cut oft’ the head; make 
 another in the belly, but in a contrary direction, 
 and as small as possible. Then with your fore¬ 
 finger draw out the roe, intestines, and guts. 
 Wash the carp well, till there is no blood left, 
 and wipe it well; slit both sides of the back, and 
 let it marinade in a little oil, salt, and pepper, for 
 about an hour, or a little more. Now lay it on the 
 gridiron over a very slow fire, that it may have 
 time to be well done through. When broiled 
 
 o 2 
 
2m 
 
 on both sides, serve it with caper-sauce, into which 
 you put a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If the 
 carp has a soft roe, put it again into the body 
 with a little chopped parsley, mixed with a small 
 lump of fresh butter, salt and pepper ; then sew 
 the belly up, for fear the contents should drop out, 
 and broil all together. When the carp is done, 
 cut of! the thread, and mask* the fish with the 
 sauce. 
 
 Sauce cm carp for fish is made as follows: pui 
 in a saucepan or stewpan, about a quarter of a 
 pound of very fresh butter, a large tea-spoonful 
 of flour, a little salt, a little nutmeg, very little 
 pepper, a tea-spoonful of white vinegar, a little water 
 sufficient to thicken the sauce, a small bit of glaze, 
 and then put this on the fire, and stir it till the 
 sauce becomes very smooth ; taste it, and add 
 to it a spoonful of fine capers without any of the 
 vinegar. 
 
 No. 2 .—Carp Farcie , baked. 
 
 After having cleansed and prepared a carp as 
 above, take up one-half of it, and with the flesh 
 make a farce (see Farce de Carpe), with which 
 you cover the other half, after having taken out 
 the bones. Give it a pleasing shape. Then, with 
 a very small spoon, figure scales over it, and put 
 it into the oven on a baking-pan. Take care it 
 does not get too dry. When it is of a fine brown 
 colour, cover it, and ascertain if it is done, by 
 running your knife between the farce and the fish 
 Send it up to table with anchovy sauce, or sauce 
 hackee. 
 
 No 3. — Carp au bleu , and ciu Court-bouillon. 
 
 Take a very fine carp, cut off* the gills, but keep 
 * Mash, means to cover with the sauce.. 
 
293 
 
 the tongue. Then make as small an opening as 
 possible to empty it, and wash it well, till no blood 
 is left. Then boil some vinegar, and when boiling 
 hot, pour it over the fish, that the scales may crisp. 
 Next wrap the carp up in a cloth, and stew it in a 
 court bouillon. When done, drain it, and serve it 
 with anchovy sauce and capers. 
 
 Co urt-boui lion.* 
 
 Take three carrots, four onions, six shalots, and 
 two roots of pars ey, w hich pick and wash. Mince 
 them. Put a small lump of butter into a stew-pan, 
 with the above roots, and fry them till they begin 
 to get brown. Moisten next with two bottles of 
 red wine, a bottle of water, a handful of salt, 
 some whole pepper-corns, and a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, 
 sweet basil, cloves, &c. Let the whole stew for an 
 hour, and then strain it through a sieve, to use as 
 occasion may require. If you should have no 
 wine, put in some vinegar. The court-bouillon is 
 better after having served several times than on the 
 first day. It is a famous thing for stewing craw¬ 
 fish. 
 
 No. 4 .—Carp d la Cha/nbord. 
 
 Take a very large carp, scale and empty it, as 
 directed in No. 1. Have the soft roes of other 
 small carp, which put into the body of the large 
 one, after you have seasoned them with chopped 
 parsley, salt, pepper, and spices. Sew up the 
 belly of the carp, and lard two squares on the back 
 
 * This is a very good thing in a Roman Catholic family 
 during Lent. It is always good ; only add a glass of wine to 
 it every time you use it. Use it for marinade , &c. &c. 
 
294 
 
 with very small pieces of bacon, and cover the parts 
 that are not larded with bacon. Next lay the carp 
 in a fish-pan, with two ladles of court-bouillon , 
 and put it into the oven, but mind it must be basted 
 frequently with the marinade. When it is done, 
 drain it, but take care you do not break it. Glaze 
 the parts that are larded, and dish it with la cham- 
 bord and its garnish. 
 
 The chambord is a dish very seldom served in 
 this country, as the English nobility prefer sea-fish 
 to any fresh-water fish, except the perch. The 
 chambord is the same sauce as the financiere ; you 
 have only to reduce a little of the marinade in 
 which you have done the fish, whether carp, or 
 jack, &c. and put into it some essence of ancho¬ 
 vies, Cayenne, and lemon-juice. All sorts of gar¬ 
 nish are required : lambs’ sweetbread, cocks 1 -combs, 
 mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, small pigeons called 
 squabbs, &c. 
 
 No. 5.— Matelotte of Carp a la Royale. 
 
 • 
 
 Take several carp, which cleanse as directed in 
 No. 1. Cut them into thick slices : first cut off the 
 head, but never forget to take out the stone which 
 is at the top of the spine, exactly about the neck, 
 for it has a most nauseous bitter taste. Next cut 
 the remainder into three equal parts, and wash 
 them well, then lay them on a clean towel to drain, 
 after which put them into a stew-pan just large 
 enough to contain the quantity of fish you wish to 
 cook. As you are to boil the fish with wine only, 
 if you were to take too large a vessel, it would 
 require too much wine, which would be wasted. 
 Sprinkle a little salt over the fish. Pour only as 
 much wine as is requisite just to cover the carp, 
 and let it stew over a large fire. As soon as the 
 wine boils, if it is good, or unadulterated, it will 
 
295 
 
 catch fire. Red wine of course is used. Then 
 take your pan from off the fire, and leave it on the 
 corner of the stove, and make a sauce in the follow¬ 
 ing manner: 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew- 
 pan, and make a roux by mixing a little flour. 
 When the roux begins to get brown, put in two 
 large onions cut in quarters, and let them fry till 
 they are entirely melted. Then moisten with some 
 of the wine in which the fish has been stewing; 
 add a large bunch of parsley and green onions, 
 seasoned with allspice, thyme, bay-leaf, &c. Pick 
 a pint of mushrooms, wash them well, turn the 
 finest, and throw them into a little water and lemon- 
 juice to keep them white. The parings are to be 
 used for the improvement of the taste of the sauce, 
 from which skim off* all the fat; then strain it 
 through a tammy over the carp, which you must 
 have drained well beforehand. You must have 
 ready some small onions, fried brown in butter, and 
 stewed separately in a little broth; and some mush¬ 
 rooms likewise stewed separately. Then dish the 
 carp with the head in the middle. You must also 
 have some soft roes stewed separately in vinegar, 
 that they may be quite firm ; with these garnish 
 the matelotte. Next have a dozen of toasts made 
 of rasped crust of bread, a few quenelles , and a few 
 craw-fish, and dish the matelotte rather high in 
 the middle. Let the sauce boil, and put in a good 
 lump of butter kneaded with a little flour, two 
 spoonsful of essence of anchovies, and the juice of 
 a lemon. The sauce must be rather highly sea¬ 
 soned and thick, that it may cover well and adhere 
 to the fish. The small onions and mushrooms are 
 not to be omitted, but put them over the fish. 
 
 In general, a matelotte must have eels mixed 
 with it; as the carp alone are not so good as the 
 cels, but they are of better digestion ; mind that 
 
296 
 
 eels require longer cooking than any other fish. 
 Queue ties are generally used as the garniture of a 
 mateloite. 
 
 No. 6.— Matelotte of Carp a la Mariniere. 
 
 After having cleansed the fish as directed No. 1, 
 put it into a vessel that will stand a large brisk 
 fire. Moisten with some red wine according to the 
 quantity of fish ; put some small onions fried white 
 in butter into the vessel, with salt, pepper, spices, 
 a bunch of parsley, and green onions well seasoned.* 
 Let the whole boil till you see the fish is done. 
 Handle some butter and flour, which you drop 
 in small portions into this sauce, in order to 
 thicken it. Have likewise some toasts, which put 
 round your dish in the sauce. Season it well, and 
 serve up quite hot, rather highly seasoned. 
 
 No. 7.— Petits Pates of Farce of Carp. 
 
 See farces for the flesh, and pastry for tlie 
 paste. These are only served in Roman Catholic 
 families, on fast days. 
 
 EELS. 
 
 No. 1.— Matelotte of Eclsf 
 
 lake one or two live eels; throw them into the 
 
 * A bunch seasoned, is when thyme, bay-leaf, spices, cloves, 
 &c. &c. are added. 
 
 f The Author has been accused of cruelty, m recommending 
 the burning alive of eels. He could not be supposed to 
 advocate a practice, which he owns savours of unnecessary 
 torture ; but as this work is devoted to the explanation of the 
 refinements of cookery, he has introduced this method amongst 
 the rest, leaving it to be adopted or not, as may be seen fit by 
 the practitioner. Undoubtedly, the blue skin and oil which 
 remain when the eel has been skinned in the ordinary way 
 renders it highly indigestible. J ’ 
 
297 
 
 fire. As they are twisting about on all sides, lay 
 hold of them with a towel in your hand, and skin 
 them from head to tail. This method is the best, 
 as it is the means of drawing out all the oil, which 
 is unpalatable. Cut the eels in pieces without 
 ripping the belly : then run your knife into the 
 hollow part, and turn it round to take out the 
 entrails. Wash them well, that no blood may 
 remain. Mark the pieces of eel in the same 
 manner as you do the carp. The eel is longer in 
 doing, but the process is the same. It will 
 frequently happen thal a matelotte is made of all 
 sorts of fish, such as carp, tench, pike, and eels. 
 The carp is sooner done than any of the other 
 mentioned fish; but they are, notwithstanding, 
 always cooked together when they can be procured. 
 
 No. 2.— Tronqons of Eels broiled a la Tart are. 
 
 Skin the eels as above, cut the tronqons or 
 pieces about four inches long, make a court-bouillon 
 or marinade. Stew the eels in this marinade , and 
 when they are done let them cool, then brush them 
 over with yolks of eggs mixed with a little salt, and 
 dip them into crumbs of bread, then into clarified 
 butter, and strew over them crumbs of bread again. 
 Broil them of a fine colour, or bake them, and 
 serve them up with a remoulade sauce. 
 
 Observe that eels contract very much when 
 done ; you should, therefore, cut the tronqons long 
 enough to be about three inches after being done; 
 take care to have the bone out on both sides before 
 you add the crumbs of bread. 
 
 Remoulade Sauce .—Put into a mortar, a spoon¬ 
 ful of very fine chopped shalots, the yolks of two 
 boiled eggs, a spoonful of mustard, salt, pepper, 
 and a little Cayenne, pound the whole well, then 
 put gently one or two spoonsful of fine Lucca oil 
 
 o 3 
 
298 
 
 and a little vinegar; rub this sauce through a 
 tammy, and put the yolk of a raw egg, to prevent 
 its turning oily: if you wish the sauce to be green, 
 put a verd d'Epinard into it, and some scented 
 vinegar, as Tarragon, or elder, &c. &c.; if you 
 have any bechamelte, you may add a spoonful. 
 
 No. 3.— Tron^ons of Eels a la Poulette. 
 
 There are some people who cook eels a la pou- 
 lette , in the same manner as a fricassee of chickens; 
 it is better, however, to stew them in a marinade , 
 and then to make the sauced la poulette separately, 
 by taking some sauce tournee, which you reduce 
 till it can take a thickening. Mix it with parsley 
 chopped very fine, and small onions, if approved 
 of; but then they are to be done separately, and 
 stewed in a little broth and salt. Drain them, and 
 put them into the sauce after having thickened it. 
 Let it be seasoned pretty highly with salt, pepper, 
 and the juice of a lemon. Let the eels continue in 
 the sauce for ten minutes before you send the 
 dinner up to table. If you should have no sauce 
 tournee , make a little white roux (see Sauces ), 
 moisten with either water or broth, to which add a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, pepper, salt, 
 a small white onion, a few mushrooms, and a little 
 glaze. When your sauce has been boiling for half 
 an hour, that the flour may be well done, take 
 out the parsley and onions, skim the sauce, mix 
 a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon 
 with the thickening, and serve up hot over the 
 eels. 
 
 No. 4.— Eels baked. 
 
 Prepare the eels as above, but open the belly in 
 order to draw out the intestines and blood. Roll it 
 round, put a fluffing into it, and fasten it with a 
 
299 
 
 skewer. Then bake it in a marinade, or a little 
 court-bouillon. When it is of a brown colour, 
 glaze it, and serve under it an Italienne, with 
 which you mix half a quarter of a pound of 
 butter. Add to it a spoonful of essence of ancho¬ 
 vies. 
 
 No. 5.— Tronions of Eels larded and glazed. 
 
 This entree never looks well, as the trongons will 
 not stand upright. Strip the eels, however, as 
 above, cut the trongons of an equal size, and lard 
 them. Next mark them in a stew-pan rubbed 
 round with butter. Have ready a marinade, and 
 moisten with a few spoonsful only. When the eel 
 is done, contrive that the trongons shall not be 
 crooked, and glaze them of a hue brown. Send 
 them up with caper sauce, to which you have added 
 a spoonful of essence of anchovies. 
 
 pike. 
 
 No. 1.— Pike ct la Polonaise. 
 
 See No. 24, page 106. 
 
 No. 2. — Pike with Genevoise Sauce. 
 
 After having merely emptied and washed the 
 pike, without scaling it, mark a marinade with 
 carrots, onions, parsley roots, thyme, bay-leaves, 
 sweet basil, cloves, and a few stalks of parsley. 
 Stew all these in a little butter over a slow (ire. 
 When the roots are become tender, moisten them 
 with Madeira wine, and let the marinade stew on. 
 When it is done enough, strain it through a sieve 
 over the pike, which you have taken care to lay in 
 the narrowest vessel you can procure, so as to use no 
 more wine than is requisite for the sauce. Mind 
 
300 
 
 not to put much salt, as the moistening is used 
 for the sauce. When the pike is done, drain it 
 immediately, that you may scrape off all the scales 
 on both sides. Then put it back into the vessel 
 where it was boiled, and pour in a little of the 
 liquor to keep it warm, and to prevent its getting 
 dry. Make a roux , but not too high in colour, 
 which en maigre you must moisten with wine alone; 
 but en gras you add two good spoonsful of gravy 
 of veal, with some parings of mushrooms, and a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions. Let these 
 stew till the sauce no longer smells of flour. 
 3 hen strain it through a tammy, and add a good 
 lump of butter kneaded with flour, a spoonful 
 of essence of anchovies, and the juice of a lemon. 
 
 N.B.—Y ou must use white wine in preference 
 to red; it will then differ, besides, from a mate- 
 lotte. 
 
 No. 3 .—Pike with Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Scale the pike and take off* the gills, without 
 opening the belly. You must empty it at the 
 head. Make a farce with two handfuls of crumbs 
 of bread, and the same quantity of beef-suet {en 
 maigre you use butter instead of suet), the yolks 
 of two eggs, or two whole eggs, a little milk, a 
 large quantity of chopped parsley, a little thyme, 
 salt, and pepper, and shalots chopped very fine, if 
 approved of. Mix this very fine, and put the 
 whole into the belly of the pike. Then trim a.pla¬ 
 fond or baking-dish, with layers of bacon, that the 
 pike may not burn and stick to it. Fasten the 
 fish’s tail in its mouth with a little skewer. Break 
 a few eggs into an earthen pan, with a little pepper 
 and salt. Brush the pike all over with the beaten 
 eggs, and powder it over with crumbs of bread ; 
 then baste it all over with clarified butter, and 
 
301 
 
 powder it with crumbs of bread again : baste it 
 afresh with butter, and then bake it in the oven 
 till it is of a fine colour. Send it up to table over 
 a cloth, and serve up separately the Dutch sauce. 
 If you send up two pikes, let one be green, and 
 the other yellow. The green one is made by mix¬ 
 ing a large quantity of chopped parsley with the 
 crumbs of bread, before you powder the fish over 
 v> ith them. 
 
 No. 4 . —Baked Pike, French way. 
 
 Prepare the pike as above, but instead of stuff¬ 
 ing it with the aforesaid farce, stuff it with a farce 
 a quenelles. Mind you bind the head, which is 
 liable to break. Make a marinade ,* a small quan¬ 
 tity will do, as it is improper that pike should be 
 drenched with it ; indeed there will be quite enough 
 if it reaches the middle of the fish. Baste it fre¬ 
 quently with some of the moistening, that it may 
 take a fine colour, which is not easily obtained, as 
 you have not used crumbs of bread. When it is 
 done, drain it. Take some of the marinade to 
 mark a butter sauce in this way; put a good lump 
 of butter and a spoonful of flour into a stew-pan ; 
 moisten with the seasoning, but do not allow the 
 sauce to boil. Add to this a spoonful of essence 
 of anchovies, and the juice of a lemon. Serve the 
 sauce under the fish without masking.- f- If the 
 pike is not of a fine colour, you should add some 
 fine capers to the sauce; and in that case, mask 
 the. fish over with it. 
 
 No. 5.— Pike , Sauce a Matelotte. 
 
 Empty it as directed No. 2. Stew it in a mari- 
 
 * See Marinade. 
 
 f Masking, or covering with the sauce. 
 
302 
 
 nncle au vinaigre , and mask it with the sauce h ma- 
 tefotte, after having removed the scales, as in No. 2. 
 The sauce matelotte is to be made with red wine. 
 If you wish to make a matelotte of pike, do it in 
 the same way as the other matelottes ; boil the fish 
 in wine, and use the wine to make the sauce as 
 usual. 
 
 No. 6 .—Fillets of Pike a la Maitre cl Hotel. 
 
 Take up the fillets of a moderate-sized pike, 
 divest them of the skin, and cut them into equal 
 pieces, that they may be dished nicely. Mark them 
 in a saute-pan with some melted butter, pepper, 
 and salt. When just going to send them up to 
 table, sautez them over a large fire, that they may 
 be white and firm, and turn them on the other side. 
 When they are done, drain and dish them en mi- 
 roton , and serve them up with the maitre eChotel a 
 poisson ; the same as for fillets of soles. 
 
 No. 7 .—Fillets of Pike a la Marechale. 
 
 Take the pike and skin it as above. Cut the 
 fillets in the shape of cutlets, and powder a little 
 salt and pepper over them. Beat the yolks of two 
 eggs in a pan, with which brush the fillets over, 
 and then strew crumbs of bread over them. Next 
 dip them into melted butter, and into crumbs of 
 bread, to give them a second coat. Make those 
 crumbs quite level. Lastly, broil the fillets over a 
 slow, but equal fire. Dish them en miroton, and 
 send them up with a white poivrade. Put into a 
 small stew-pan two spoonsful of Tarragon vinegar, 
 Jet it reduce to half, and add to it three spoonsful 
 of sauce tournee; thicken it with the yolk of an 
 egg, add to it half a quartern of fresh butter, some 
 salt, pepper, and the juice of half a lemon ; work 
 the sauce to make it smooth. 
 
303 
 
 No. 8 .—Fillets of Pike cl la Turque. 
 
 Prepare the fillets as in No. 6. Wash some rice 
 quite jclean, and blanch it. Make it swell soft in 
 some good consomme. Let it be done thoroughly, 
 keep it thick, and season it well. Add a few 
 spoonsful of velonte, and a little thick cream, still 
 preserving it thick and firm, that it may be dished 
 in a pyramid or dome, in the centre of the dish, 
 and the fillets all round. Mask* the fillets, but 
 not the rice. You may serve up either with the 
 maitre cPhotel , or the raviijotte. (See Sauces.) 
 
 No. 9 .—Pike a la Chambord. 
 
 Exactly the same thing as carp, No. 4 
 
 PERCH. 
 
 Perch is a fish that is held in high estimation. 
 _ . - 
 Its flesh is white and delicate ; it is easily digested, 
 
 and is particularly recommended to those invalids 
 
 who have a weak, debilitated stomach. 
 
 No. 1 .—Perch a la Water-fish. 
 
 Empty the perch. Wash it well in several 
 waters. Mark in a stew-pan a white marinade , 
 composed of shreds of parsley and of parsley roots, 
 a few carrots, and two or three green onions cut 
 into fillets. Stew the whole in a little butter. When 
 the roots begin to get soft, moisten with boiling 
 water, and a glass of white wine, salt, pepper, &c. 
 Let the whole stew well, and pour that marinade 
 over the fish, which stew for about ten minutes. 
 Then drain and scale it nicely, preserving, how¬ 
 ever, the red fins. When the perch is quite clean, 
 
 * Mask, or cover with the sauce. 
 
304 
 
 stick those red fins into the partition of the fillet, 
 to shew what the fish is. As it is verv liable to 
 break, put it with care into a saute- pan, covered 
 with some of the liquid, to keep it warm ; reduce 
 the remainder of the liquid almost to glaze ; have 
 some parsley roots cut as for Julienne soup, some 
 leaves of parsley blanched very green, and two 
 spoonsful of good bechamelle ; add to it the reduc¬ 
 tion, some salt, pepper, the juice of half a lemon, 
 and half a quartern of fresh butter : after having 
 drained the perch, dish it, and cover it with the 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 2.— Perch plain boiled , or Water Suehet. 
 
 Empty and wash the perch as above. Trim a 
 stew-pan with parsley roots, a bunch of parsley, a 
 little salt, and a few grains of corn pepper, which 
 you must count, that you may take every one out 
 when the water has boiled for half an hour. Put 
 the perch into the water, and boil them speedily, 
 that they may be more firm. Then take out the 
 bunch of parsley, and throw into the liquor some 
 leaves of parsley that have been blanched very 
 green. Serve up the fish in a deep-bottomed dish, 
 with the liquor and the roots, which must be cut 
 into fillets of about an inch long, and an eighth wide, 
 send up with slices of bread and butter on a plate, 
 the liquor must be rather salt. 
 
 No. 3 .—Perch « la Maitre d'Hotel. 
 
 Let them be prepared and cooked as above. 
 Remember that you must preserve the red fins, 
 which you stick into the middle part, instead of 
 leaving them in their natural place. After you 
 have drained the fish, mask it with a maitre 
 d'ho tel. 
 
305 
 
 No. 4.— Perch plain boiled , Dutch Sauce. 
 
 After having emptied the fish, scale them well, 
 and boil them, with water and salt, for a quarter 
 of an hour. Serve them up on a cloth, with 
 parsley quite green all round, and send up the 
 Dutch sauce separately. 
 
 TENCH. 
 
 Tench is a fish which real epicures think very 
 little of; yet it is more admissible in a inatelolte 
 than in any other way. However, it may be 
 dressed either broiled, ciu coui t-bouilhn, or Jarcie , 
 the same in every respect as a carp. (See Carp.) 
 
 No. 1.— Fried Tench. 
 
 After having scaled and emptied the tench, 
 split the back of the fish, but take care not to 
 touch the belly, for if you do, it will divide. Let 
 it pickle for three hours in vinegar, salt, pepper, 
 stalks of parsley, and onions. Then drain it and 
 dip it into flour. Fry it of a fine colour, and quite 
 firm. The dripping must be very hot. This you 
 try with a drop of water, which being thrown into 
 the dripping, occasions a noise, if it is in a proper 
 state. Send it up to table on a cloth, with fried 
 parsley all round ; if you have a soft roe, fry it 
 likewise, and serve it in the middle. 
 
 TROUT, AND SALMON-TROUT. 
 
 Trout is never good unless it is caught in run¬ 
 ning water ; indeed it is seldom to be found else¬ 
 where. It is to be cooked or dressed in the same 
 manner as salmon, and is generally better and 
 more delicate. 
 
306 
 
 No. 1.— Trout au court-bouillon. 
 
 Empty the trout without making a large open¬ 
 ing in the belly. Wash it well; wrap it up in 
 a cloth, fasten both ends with a bit of packthread, 
 and bind the middle, or body, but not too tight. 
 Then stew it in a court-bouillon. (See Court - 
 bouillon.) When the trout is done, drain it, un¬ 
 fold the cloth, and send it up to table on another 
 clean cloth, with green parsley all round. Send up 
 the Dutch sauce in a boat. 
 
 No. 2.— Trout with Genevoise Sauce. 
 
 After having emptied the trout, fasten the head 
 with packthread, and stew it (without having re¬ 
 moved the scales) with marinade. This is to be 
 dressed exactly in the same manner as the pike 
 (see Pike a la Genevoise) , only put a little more 
 cloves with this sauce, and make it with red wine 
 instead of white. All red fish must be dressed 
 with red wine in preference to white. When the 
 trout is done, take off the scales and skin, and put 
 it again to warm with some of the liquor, and serve 
 with the sauce over it. 
 
 No. 3.— Fillets of Trout d V Aurore. 
 
 Take up the fillets of three trouts with the skin 
 off. Pare them in the shape of hearts. Put them 
 into a saute pan with melted butter, salt, and pep¬ 
 per. Sautez* them on a clear fire, turn them over, 
 and when they are done, dish them en miroton , 
 and mask them with the sauce d Vaurore. Sauce 
 d I’ aurore is the white sharp sauce : put some lob¬ 
 ster spawn to make it red, the sauce d Caurore with 
 the fish, is the same sauce as that which you will 
 find before under the name of marechale, only 
 
 * Sautez means, set them to fry briskly. 
 
307 
 
 when dVaurore, you add to it a butter made red 
 with the spawn of lobster, which must be rubbed 
 through a tammy or a sieve. 
 
 No. 4 .—Baked Trout. 
 
 Having emptied and scaled the trout, put a 
 stuffing well seasoned into the belly, then turn it 
 round, with its tail fixed in its mouth. Put the 
 fish in a small quantity of marinade , so that it 
 may be just covered. Baste it frequently, and 
 let it be made of a fine colour. When it is done, 
 reduce one-half of the liquor in which the trout 
 has been stewing, put in a good lump of fresh but¬ 
 ter kneaded with flour, with a little essence of an¬ 
 chovies, a few fine capers, salt and pepper, if the 
 sauce is not sufficiently seasoned; but be careful, 
 when you use anchovies, not to put too much salt. 
 Then squeeze the juice of a lemon, drain the fish, 
 send it up to table, with the sauce under it, but 
 without masking, or covering. 
 
 No. 5.— Trout plain boiled. 
 
 After having emptied, scaled, and washed the 
 fish, have some boiling water ready, into which put 
 the trout with a good handful of salt only, but no 
 vinegar, as it spoils the colour of the fish. When 
 it is done, drain it well, and serve it up on a clean 
 cloth, garnished with parsley. Send up the lob¬ 
 ster sauce separately in a boat, or the Dutch sauce. 
 The length of time it should boil, is left to the 
 judgment of the cook ; the size determines the 
 time. But. be cautious, that when the fish remains 
 long in the water, it loses its flavour and quality ; 
 for this reason, take care to boil it precisely at the 
 time it is wanted. 
 
308 
 
 LAMPREY. 
 
 Although very few people are partial to this 
 fish, some, however, like it en matelotie ; it is then 
 to be cooked in the same manner as the eel. You 
 must notice, however, that the lamprev requires 
 a very long time before it is done. Make a sauce 
 dmatelotte (see Sauces,) wherein you let your fish 
 simmer for an hour and a half, or two hours if the 
 fish is of a large size. 
 
 No. 1.— Craw-Fish. 
 
 Craw-fish is good only when it does not spawn, 
 for then it is most nauseously bitter. Wash it well 
 in several clean waters, till the water remains per¬ 
 fectly limpid and bright. Trim a stew-pan with a 
 few slices of carrots, onions, roots and stalks of par¬ 
 sley, thyme, bay-leaves, two cloves, salt, pepper, a 
 glass of vinegar, and some v'ater. Let the whole 
 stew for an hour, drain it through a sieve, and put 
 the live craw-fish into the seasoning to boil. Keep 
 stirring them almost without interruption, that 
 they may be done all alike, for twenty minutes. 
 Keep them in the seasoning till you send them up 
 to table, as they take a better flavour. 
 
 No. 2.— Craze-Fish a la Poulette. 
 
 When the best craw-fish have been sent to table 
 plain, take the smaller ones and pick off the lesser 
 claws; cut the large ones in half, beard them, pick 
 the tail; put all these in a cloth, and shake them 
 well, that there may be no water left. Then take 
 two spoonsful of veloute , (see Sauces,) a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, some pepper and salt, chopped 
 parsley, a little cavice, and the juice of a lemon. 
 Toss the craw-fish in this sauce, which must be 
 thick, and send up to table quite hot. 
 
309 
 
 No. l 6 .— Bisque of Craw-Fish. 
 
 This is a poiage which is sent to table on gala 
 clays only, when you are obliged to make a frequent 
 change of potages. Take the best craw-fish you 
 can procure, according to the quantity you may 
 want. Five or six dozen at least are generally 
 requisite. If you boil the craw-fish expressly for 
 the occasion, you must not put vinegar. Lay aside 
 two dozen and a half of the finest tails, that remain 
 whole. The rest, with all the meat, and fleshy 
 parts of the inside, pound in a mortar with the 
 flesh of the breasts of two roasted fowls or chickens. 
 Previously, have soaked or boiled in rich broth, 
 the crumb of two French penny loaves. Put that 
 also into the mortar, with the yolks of three eggs 
 boiled hard. Pound the whole together. Next 
 put the shells of the craw-fish to boil in a little 
 broth; then take some of the liquor to dilute the 
 puree with, which rub through a tammy. Now 
 boil a pint and a half of cream, which you keep 
 continually stirring round, in order to prevent a 
 scum from rising. Pour that cream into the 
 qiotage, and season it well. Have the red spawn 
 of a lobster well pounded, dilute it with some of 
 the broth, and mix it with your soup, or potage. 
 Keep it hot, without its boiling. Soak a few 
 rounds of bread, which lay at the bottom of the 
 tureen Pour your bisque into the tureen, over 
 the bread ; place the tails that you have laid aside 
 previously, all round the tureen over the soup, and 
 serve up hot. Mind the soup is not to be too 
 thick ; and season it of a good flavour. 
 
 No. 4.— Craw-Fish for Entrees. 
 
 Your craw-fish, in this case, must be dressed as 
 directed- in No. 1 They never serve but for a 
 
310 
 
 garnish, and then the small claws must always be 
 taken off*. Mind that you beard the fish, take off* 
 all the small claws, and that it is of a fine colour. 
 Thus prepared, they may be used for either cham- 
 bords, godards , mateloties, fricassees , pates 
 chauds , aspics , &c. &o. 
 
 There are many other sorts of fresh-water fish 
 that seldom are sent to table, which are found in 
 sleeping waters, and which accordingly shall not be 
 mentioned here. Those who fancy them, however, 
 may either broil or fry them, as they would a 
 carp. 
 
 Aloze, Shad. 
 
 This fish is held in high estimation in France, 
 and especially in Paris. It must be scaled, emptied, 
 and washed nicely. Next it is to be marinaded in 
 a little oil, with pepper and salt. It is necessary to 
 split it, that the salt may penetrate. Broil it on 
 both sides over a slow fire. It will be done in the 
 course of one hour. When it is done, let it be 
 served with caper sauce, or with sorrel, not puree , 
 but what is called farce. 
 
311 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 SALT-WATER FISH. 
 
 No. 1.— Turbot . 
 
 A turbot of a middling size is preferable to 
 any other. When very large, the meat is tough 
 and thready. It is customary in France, and the 
 same must be done in every country, to empty the 
 fish, and to wash out all the blood. 
 
 Some gentlemen are much mistaken with regard to 
 the freshness of the turbot: the author has ascer¬ 
 tained by many years’ observation, that a turbot kept 
 two or three days is much better eating than a very 
 fresh one: it certainly depends much on the quality 
 of the fish, but if it is boiled with care and atten¬ 
 tion, its having been kept is a great improvement 
 to it. If you are obliged to wait after it is done, it 
 is better not to leave the fish in the water; keep 
 the water boiling, but put the fish over the steam, 
 covered with a damp cloth. When the dinner is 
 called for, dip the fish again into the water; by this 
 means it never loses its quality. It is of great con¬ 
 sequence to boil the white fish always in clear 
 pump water; it makes the fish eat better, and keeps 
 it whiter and firmer. 
 
 No. 2 .—Fillets of Turbot ct la Marechale. 
 
 Take the fillets of a moderate-sized turbot, skin 
 
312 
 
 them; and cut each fillet into equal pieces, either 
 oval, or in the shape of hearts. Season them with 
 salt and pepper. Then beat the yolks of two or 
 three eggs in a plate, and brush the fillets over 
 with them, next dip them into crumbs of bread, 
 then into clarified butter, and next into bread 
 again. Boil them till they are of a fine colour, on 
 a slow but equal fire. Dish them en couronne , 
 and pour over a white sharp sauce. See sauce 
 marechale; only remark, when for fish you must put 
 more butter. 
 
 No. 3.— Fillets of Turbot a la Creme. 
 
 This is an entree of desserte.* When the tur¬ 
 bot is returned from table, immediately take up 
 the fillets, and skin them; you must do this while 
 they are hot, as it will occasion a great waste to 
 trim them when cold. The next day you must 
 scollop your fillets, as equally as possible. Have 
 a sauce a la creme quite hot; put the fillets into 
 it, and keep them hot, and in due time send them 
 up in a dish garnished with a bordure , or in a vol 
 au vent. 
 
 The cream sauce may be made in two different 
 ways ; first, if you have bechamelle in the larder, 
 put into a stew-pan three spoonsful of it, a quarter 
 of a pound of very fresh butter, two spoonsful of 
 very good cream, some salt, and a little Cayenne: 
 mix the whole well, and put either the sauce over 
 the fish, or the fish into the sauce, if it is for a vol 
 au vent. If you have no bechamelle, put into a 
 stew-pan a table-spoonful of flour, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, two or three spoonsful of cream, 
 salt, a little Cayenne, and a small bit of glaze. Do 
 
 * Entiee of desserte, is what is left from the preceding 
 day. 
 
SIS 
 
 not let this sauce boil, only melt it till it is thick, 
 and season high. 
 
 No. 4 .—Gratin of Fillets of Turbot au Veloute. 
 
 This is another entree of dessertc. Proceed as 
 above, No. 3. Cut a few slices of bread, one 
 inch broad and a quarter of an inch thick. 
 
 . Dip them into an omelette of one single egg. 
 Stick them on the border of a dish, which lay 
 on the corner of a little stove. As you stick 
 on the bread, turn the dish; when you have com¬ 
 pleted the circle, put a spoonful or two of veloute 
 on the dish, and let it gratine in the centre of the 
 dish. Next take more of the same veloute , to 
 which you add a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 mix this on the stove without boiling. Keep this 
 sauce thick ; pour into it a little thick cream; 
 season it well; put your scollops into the sauce, 
 and the whole into the dish in which you have 
 gratine the veloute. Now level with your knife, 
 and strew crumbs of bread over them equally; 
 heat a bored ladle, put a small lump of butter 
 into it, and baste the scollops with it; let them 
 have another coat of crumbs of bread, baste them 
 again, and let them get a good colour with the sala¬ 
 mander. When the gratin has got a good colour, 
 take off the slices of bread that you had previously 
 stuck round the dish, to make room for others that 
 have been fried in butter of a fine colour. If you 
 have a deep dish, the first border will not be v r anted, 
 only the second, which makes the dish look better; 
 if you trim and fry your bread nicely, it makes a 
 beautiful entree . 
 
 No. 5. — Vol au Vent (TEscalopes de Turbot , au 
 bon Beurre. 
 
 This is an excellent entree of desserte. Be par- 
 
 r 
 
314 
 
 ticular in cleaning the fillets of the turbot when 
 returned from table, as directed No. 3. Cut them 
 in scollops, and put them into a stew-pan, well 
 covered, to prevent their getting dry. With re- 
 gaid to the sauce, take six spoonsful of sauce touv- 
 nee, which reduce with two spoonsful of consomme. 
 When the sauce is reduced, thicken it with the 
 yolks of two eggs, and refine your sauce with at 
 east a quarter of a pound of the best butter, or 
 more.. If you should have any thick cream, put 
 in a little, as it will make the sauce mellower ^ 
 lastly, season well, put the scollops with the sauce’ 
 keep them hot, and send up the whole to table in 
 a vol an vent. (See vol au vent.) 
 
 No. 6.— Pelites Timballes of Fillets of Turbot 
 d la Venitienne. 
 
 This is an entree of desserte , held in high esti¬ 
 mation. It requires but very little flesh of the fish 
 to make it. Cut whatever is left of - the turbot into 
 dice, as small as possible. For the sauce, take 
 three spoonsful of hot bechamelle , to which add a 
 good lump of butter, salt, white fine pepper, a 
 little parsley chopped very fine, and well squeezed 
 in a towel, that it may not give a green colour to 
 the sauce. Then put a little cavice; that of 
 Mack ay s, which is the best, is the composition 
 which agrees the most with all fish sauces, parti¬ 
 cularly when kept many years. Keep stirring your 
 sauce, which is generally called working it. We call 
 it vanner, taking up the sauce in a ladle, and pour- 
 ing it peipendicularly into the stew-pan, repeating 
 the operation frequently, and very quick, to make 
 the sauce transparent. When it is mellow, and of 
 a good taste, throw in the small dice of turbot, 
 keep them hot, and when ready to send up to table, 
 
 V. 
 
315 
 
 garnish the little timballes* with the turbot. Let 
 them lay for a moment in the oven, and serve 
 them up hot. If you have no bechamelle, you 
 must make use of the sauce d la creme , or bon 
 Beurre , No. 5 of this article. 
 
 No. 1 .— Turbotin broiled zvith Caper Sauce . 
 
 After having emptied and washed the fish clean, 
 make an incision in the back, down to the bone ; 
 then wipe it quite dry; next lay it in a dish to 
 marinade in salt, pepper, and sweet oil; put in 
 very little oil, as it requires only sufficient to pre¬ 
 vent it from drying. Half an hour, or even three- 
 quarters of an hour before dinner-time, broil the 
 fish over a slow fire. It is requisite to lay some 
 straws on the gridiron, to prevent its making black 
 streaks on the turbot, which broil on both sides, 
 and serve up with crfper sauce. 
 
 BRILL. 
 
 This is very delicate, and very luscious eating 
 when broiled, with caper sauce. It is to be cooked 
 exactly in the same manner as the turbotin , No. 7. 
 It is also eaten like turbot, and is almost as good. 
 When very fresh, you may use it for fillets, and 
 for every entree the same as turbot. (See Turbot, 
 plain and cooked.) The brill is very delicate, and 
 as good as the turbot, and may be used more fre- 
 quently for fillets, as the price is not so exorbi¬ 
 tant, and the fillets are more delicate than those of 
 turbot. 
 
 * Timballe is the pastry made in the dariole mould. 
 
 F 2 
 
316 
 
 No. 1.— John Dory. 
 
 John Dory is a hideous looking fish, but the 
 meat is very delicate. Cook it in the same manner 
 as the turbot; and when broiled, send it up with 
 caper or anchovy sauce. 
 
 No. 2.—John Dory boiled , with Lobster Sauce. 
 
 John Dory is boiled exactly the same as a tur¬ 
 bot ; and the sauce is the same. Put parsley 
 round it, particularly in the opening of the head. 
 
 SALMON. 
 
 Salmon from the Thames is the most esteemed, 
 and sells accordingly. Salmon is served indiscri¬ 
 minately, plain, or as an entree , entremets , &c. 
 Crimped salmon fetches the highest price, and is 
 the only one introduced at the table of a true 
 connoisseur. 
 
 No. 1 .—Slices of Crimped Salmon , with Lobster 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 See Salmon , No. 5, page 100. 
 
 No. 2. — Slices erf Crimped Salmon broiled , with 
 Caper Sauce. 
 
 Marinade your slices of salmon in a little olive 
 od, with salt and pepper. Three-quarters of an 
 hour before you send up, broil them on a very slow 
 fire, on both sides. When it is done, take off the 
 skin, and drain it on a clean towel to draw out all 
 the oil. Dish it, and mash it with the caper sauce. 
 Let it be understood that your gridiron must be 
 
317 
 
 put on a slope, with a plafond under the fore-feet 
 to receive the oil, which, if it fell into the fire, the 
 smoke of it would spoil the fish, and besides fill the 
 kitchen with smoke and stench. (The sauce as in 
 No. 4, page 100.) 
 
 No. 3.— Cutlets of Salmon sautez a la Maitre 
 
 cC Hotel. 
 
 Cut some slices of salmon in the shape of chops. 
 Put them into a saute- pan with some clarified 
 butter, pepper and salt, and sautez or toss them 
 when dinner-time is come, over an equal fire. 
 Drain the butter well, and dish the slices of salmon 
 en couronne. Send up with a maitre <£hotel. For 
 salmon, you must not use any cream, as this fish is 
 already heavy for the stomach ; put into a stew- 
 pan three spoonsful of sauce tournee well reduced; 
 add to it a thickening of one egg, and refine the 
 sauce with a quarter of a pound of Epping butter, 
 some salt, a little Cayenne, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and some parsley chopped very fine; work 
 this sauce very fine, and use it when warned. As 
 it is not the object of the author to swell his volume 
 unnecessarily, two or three articles will often be 
 found under one head, as in the article, salmon a 
 la maitre d'hotel; but you may give it with six 
 different sauces, as marechale, Dutch caper , main- 
 tenon, ravigotte , &c. &c. 
 
 No. 4.— Salad of Salmon. 
 
 This is an entremet which is recurred to on eco¬ 
 nomical principles, when there is any salmon left. 
 Let it cool, and cut it nicely into hearts, or square 
 lozenges. Decorate these with fillets of anchovies, 
 pickled cucumbers, fine capers, and chopped eggs, 
 to which add a few hearts of lettuce. Then make 
 the sauce as follows: if you should have some 
 
318 
 
 jelly, make a kind of mayonaise. Put three spoons¬ 
 ful of oil, one spoonful of vinegar, with an equal 
 quantity of jelly, seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
 chopped ravigoite. Beat all these over ice, till 
 they are of a white colour, and decorate your salad 
 with this mayonaise , and a few lumps of jelly, cut 
 of different shapes. Avoid making any decorations 
 that are liable to tumble down. A plain good 
 salad is eaten in preference to any other. Grand 
 decorations are intended to ornament the centre of 
 the table, whereas what is to be eaten must be 
 plain and good. Above all things, avoid intro¬ 
 ducing artificial colours. Nature has supplied you 
 with nasturtium, red and white beet-root, beans of 
 two colours, white and green, chervil, Tarragon, 
 burnet, Sic.; besides, you have white or yellow 
 omelettes. Never put any fish into a salad of fowl, 
 for if the fowl tastes of fish, what will you have 
 your salads maigres taste of? In summer-time, 
 you have asparagus, artichoke-bottoms, cauli¬ 
 flowers, &c. 
 
 Salmon is also cooked in various other ways, 
 which ought not to be done. This fish being oily, 
 will not admit of so many metamorphoses. The 
 author has seen salmon-pies sent to table, petty 
 patties, and scollops of salmon in paper cases, cro¬ 
 quettes ditto, and bonne morue, all which entrees 
 are good for nothing; and the best proof of the 
 truth of this assertion is, that no one will ever taste 
 them. If, notwithstanding, you would wish to try, 
 the process is the same as for dressing turbot, or 
 haddock. However, if you will follow his advice, 
 you will never attempt any other entrees but those 
 herein described. When a good slice happens to 
 be left whole, you may serve it with a butter of 
 montpelier; this is very relishing, and may be made 
 as follows: take about eight good anchovies , a 
 
319 
 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, some ravigoites , 
 as chervil, burnet, Tarragon, a few shalots/and a 
 very little garlick; blanch these herbs in boiling 
 water and salt, put them in cold water, and when 
 quite cold put them into the mortar with the rest 
 of the articles before named; add to it the yolks of 
 six eggs boiled hard, with salt and Cayenne; rub 
 this through a sieve, after being well pounded, and 
 use it for any sort of fish that you intend to serve 
 au beur de montpelier ; if you like to have it very 
 green, make a verd de parsley , the same as directed 
 for the verd d'epinard. 
 
 No. 5.— Salmon , with Genevoise Sauce. 
 
 Scale, empty, and wash your salmon clean. 
 Then follow the method prescribed at No 6. 
 page 101. 
 
 No. 6 . — Salmon , matelotte Sauce. 
 
 Make a marinade , in which stew the salmon. 
 When it is done, pick off the scales carefully. 
 Pour the marinade over the salmon to keep it hot. 
 Then make a sauce matelotte in the following 
 manner : put a good bit of butter and two spoons¬ 
 ful of flour into a stew-pan, and make a rouse. 
 When it begins to colour, throw four or six onions 
 into your route, and let them melt: keep stirring 
 with a wooden spoon. Then moisten with a bottle 
 of red wine; add a few spoonsful of the marinade 
 in which you have stewed the salmon, some trim¬ 
 mings of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and 
 green onions, well seasoned, and a small piece of 
 glaze; season the whole, and put a little sugar to 
 correct the acidity of the wine; skim the grease, 
 and keep the sauce thick. In case it should not 
 be thick enough to mask with, add a small bit of 
 
320 
 
 butter kneaded with flour, a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, some essence of anchovies, the juice 
 of a lemon, and some salt and pepper. Drain the 
 fish, and mask it with the sauce, after having 
 strained it through a tammy. 
 
 STURGEON. 
 
 Sturgeon is an excellent fish if firm; as soon as 
 you find it soft and flabby, never attempt to make 
 any thing good of it; it will become red and of 
 bad flavour. Take care never to let it boil when 
 it is in the oven. 
 
 No. 1 .—Roast Sturgeon. 
 
 See No. 29, page 109. 
 
 No. 2. Baked Sturgeon. 
 
 The same process as above. Make a marinade , 
 either with wine or vinegar, and pour it into a 
 vessel large enough to contain the fish, which 
 cover with buttered paper, to prevent its getting 
 too high a colour Baste frequently with the mari¬ 
 nade. When the sturgeon is done, have the sauce 
 made as No. 29, page 109, and use it to mask the fish. 
 
 No. 3 .—Sturgeon a la Ude. 
 
 Boil the sturgeon in salt and water. When it 
 is done, drain and mask it with the following 
 sauce: reduce in a small stew-pan four spoonsful 
 of elder vinegar. When it is half reduced, put in 
 six spoonsful of veloute , or rather a quantity pro¬ 
 portionate to the size of the fish, half a spoonful of 
 caviee , thicken the sauce with three yolks of eggs, 
 and add a quarter of a pound of butter, and some 
 salt and pepper. Work this sauce well; drain the 
 
321 
 
 fish, and mask it with the sauce. In order to keep 
 it thick and white, mix with it a little thick cream. 
 
 No, 4 .—Blanquette of Sturgeon d la Paysanne. 
 
 When you have some roasted sturgeon returned, 
 keep it to make a blanquette. Pare some round 
 pieces nicely, of the size of half-a-crown, and put 
 them into a sauce d blanquette , to which you 
 add a little chopped parsley, and the juice of a 
 lemon. This blanquette is sent to table like all 
 others in a vol au vent , or a casserole an ris. 
 
 No. 5.— Blanquette of Sturgeon , with Green 
 
 Peas. 
 
 If you have any sturgeon left, that is still very 
 fresh, make a blanquette with peas, which not re¬ 
 quiring to be highly seasoned, will admit only of 
 fish which is extremely sweet. After having sim¬ 
 mered the peas as they are always prepared for 
 the second course, take three spoonsful of sauce 
 tournee , and reduce it with four spoonsful of the 
 peas : add a very small bit of sugar. When your 
 sauce is very thick, put to it a thickening of two 
 yolks of eggs, then put the sturgeon to it, and 
 serve either in a vol au vent , or in a bordure of 
 potatoes. Observe, that in this entree the season¬ 
 ing must be very mild. 
 
 No. C .—Croquettes of Sturgeon. 
 
 Sturgeon is a fish absolutely resembling veal; 
 when fresh, it is as white as the finest veal. If it 
 is red, there is nothing to be done with it. If 
 there is any returned, of a very good white, but 
 not a sufficient quantity to make a croquette , make 
 small limballes (see Pastry); cut the sturgeon 
 into dice, and put them into a sauce similar to that 
 
822 
 
 mentioned No. 6.-(Timballes de Turbot.) After 
 laving cut enough fish into dice to make the cro¬ 
 quettes, take a bechamelle reduced, and some mush¬ 
 rooms cut into dice, to which add a small lump of 
 butter, salt, &c. and put the fish into that sauce. 
 -Let them cool, and then dip them into crumbs of 
 bread, as prescribed for other croquettes. Serve 
 some fried parsley in the centre of the dish. 
 
 COD. 
 
 No. 1 . — Cod with Oyster Sauce. 
 
 After having emptied the cod, you must open 
 the sound or white skin of the belly, wash it care- 
 fully all along the bone, that there may be no 
 blood remaining. Mind that the fish is absolutely 
 white, then lay it on a fish plate, and put it into 
 the kettle with salt and boiling pump water: as 
 soon as you see the fish boil fast, slacken it, and 
 let it boil more gently, or else the outside will be 
 done and the middle will be raw: as it is not 
 easy to fix the time that it ought to remain in the 
 water, you must judge according to the size of 
 the fish; when done, drain it, and serve it on a 
 napkin garnished with green parsley. (See Oijster 
 .Sauce, No. 96, p. 47.) J 
 
 No. 2.~Cod with Cream Sauce. 
 
 Prepare and boil the cod as above. But after 
 having drained it, take the skin off, and mash the 
 fish with the cream sauce which follows: put into 
 a stew-pan half a pound of very fresh butter, and 
 a spoonful of flour; moisten this with a pint of 
 cream; add some salt, a very little Cayenne, 
 and one spoonful of essence of anchovies; put all 
 
 \ 
 
323 
 
 this on the stove, and let the sauce thicken without 
 boiling ; work it well, and cover the fish with it. 
 
 No. 3 .—Scollops of Cod en bonne Morue. 
 
 This is an entree of desserte. If you have any 
 cod left, take up all the flakes, taking care to leave 
 no skin nor bones. Have a cream sauce as above, 
 or else take three spoonsful of b4chamelle and a 
 good bit of butter; work them over the stove, 
 and season with pepper and salt. When the sauce 
 is well mixed with the butter, put in the scollops, 
 and stir them well, that the fish may imbibe the 
 sauce properly. Let the fish stand a moment till 
 it is cold, then make a bordure round the dish, 
 with slices of bread fried in butter. Dish the 
 scollops, level them smooth with your knife, dust 
 them over with crumbs of bread, and baste them 
 with butter; repeat botli these operations: use 
 the salamander to give the fish a colour, and serve 
 up with toasts of bread, one round, one oblong, 
 alternately, so as to be ornamental. 
 
 No. 4.— Vol au Vent of Scollops of Cod dla Crime , 
 
 This is another entree of desserte , but much the 
 same as that above; it is as good as if it were 
 fresh made, which, by the bye, should always be 
 the case when company is invited. Make the 
 same sauce as for that above, only keep it a 
 little thinner. Put your vol au vent into a dish, 
 and put in the scollops only when you are going 
 to send your dinner up. En maigre use the 
 cream sauce, p. 322. If you put in the fish too soon, 
 it makes the paste soft. 
 
 No. 5 .—Scollops of Cod d la MaUre <£Hotel. 
 
 Make a maitre (Thotel, into which put the scollops; 
 season them pretty high, and add the juice of a 
 
324 
 
 lemon. Send them up to table quite hot, for a 
 cold dinner is good for nothing, particularly fish. 
 
 No. 6 .—Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. 
 
 This dish is boiled like the other fish, but it 
 should be observed, that sixteen minutes, and some¬ 
 times not so much, will suffice to boil it; when the 
 pump water boils, put the fish on the lining, and 
 scatter a good deal of salt over it; as soon as it be¬ 
 gins to boil, put it at the side of the fire, allowing 
 it to simmer gently, try with your knife, between 
 the bones, if it is done, and drain and serve imme¬ 
 diately ; the sauce should be separately. 
 
 SALT COD. 
 
 No. 1 .—Salt Cocl a la Maitre cTHotel 
 
 T. he black skinned ones are generally reckoned 
 the best. Be particular in having the salt well 
 soaked out, put the fish into cold water, and put 
 it on the fire. Let it be done in a large vessel, 
 that it may have plenty of room. The moment 
 it is beginning to boil, take it off the fire, and keep it 
 in the water v eil covered; it then will be tender, 
 but, if it should boil, it will be tough and thready. 
 Make a maitre dihotel with half a pound of butter, 
 a spoonful of flour, four or five spoonsful of water, 
 and a little salt. Taste the fish, and if required 
 put a little more salt and pepper. Then put it 
 on the fire without allowing it to boil. When the 
 sauce begins to thicken, work it well, that it may 
 be more mellow. Have some parsley chopped 
 very fine, mix a pinch of it with a little glaze and 
 the juice of a lemon. Then taste the sauce. If 
 it be too brown, put in a little thick cream, which 
 
m 
 
 will make it both whiter and more mellow. Take 
 away the skin and bones of the fish,' and put it 
 into the sauce, shaking it gently for fear of break¬ 
 ing it. Send it up either in a vol cm vent , or in a 
 deep dish, with croutons of puff-paste. Sometimes, 
 if you give this fish as a fish-dish, serve it with the 
 skin down in the dish. Drain all the water, and mask 
 with the sauce a la maitre cThotel, and garnish 
 with fried potatoes round the fish. 
 
 No. 2.— Salt Cod d la Proven^ale. 
 
 After having drawn out the salt, and done the 
 fish as above, pound two or three heads of garlick, 
 which throw into a stew-pan with two spoonsful 
 of oil, a quarter of a pound of butter, a little salt, 
 and some coarse pepper. Continue shaking the 
 stew-pan with its contents. Put in the salt fish 
 quite hot, and keep shaking till the whole is well 
 mixed together. If you should find that it is not 
 mellow enough, add a little oil, and a spoonful of 
 veloute. Such entrees require to be highly sea¬ 
 soned, and will induce the guests to send the bottle 
 round freely. Do not neglect the juice of a lemon. 
 
 No. 3.— Salt Cod with Cream Sauce. 
 
 The same process as No. 2, p. 322. You may 
 send it up to table in a vol au vent , fyc. 
 
 No. 4.— Salt Cod d la Bonne Femme. 
 
 This is the same thing nearly as No. 1. Only 
 boil some potatoes, and let them stand till they are 
 cold; turn them into corks, and then cut them 
 into round slices much about the size of a half- 
 crown piece, which put with the sauce and salt fish 
 Taste and season well. 
 
326 
 
 No. 5 .—Salt Cod d la Lyonaise. 
 
 The same process as usual; boil it in water. 
 Cut some onions into dice, which fry in butter till 
 they are very brown. Dust them over with a little 
 flour. Moisten with milk or cream. Let the 
 onions be well done; mix a good lump of butter, 
 and season the sauce of a good taste. Put the fish 
 into the sauce, and serve up quite hot. 
 
 No. 6 .—Salt Cod plain , Egg Sauce. 
 
 Draw out the salt, and boil it as above, in the 
 French way- Have some parsnips well done, 
 which dish round the fish. Boil a few eggs hard, 
 chop them, and throw them into melted butter, 
 which send up in a boat. 
 
 WHITINGS. 
 
 No. 1 .—Broiled Whitings . 
 
 Empty the whitings, scale them, but mind that 
 you preserve the liver, which is very delicate. 
 When you have washed and wiped them clean, slit 
 the back on both sides. Beat the yolk of an egg 
 with a little salt and pepper, and rub some of it 
 over the whitings with a brush. Then dip the 
 fish into crumbs of bread, next into melted butter, 
 and then into crumbs of bread again. Broil them 
 of a fine colour, and serve up. The sauce is to 
 be sent up separately in a boat, whether it is a 
 maitre (Thotel, anchovy sauce, or melted butter. 
 Send up the sauce separately ; for if you were to 
 pour the sauce over the fish, the whiting would 
 not prove palatable, and the sauce would get too 
 thick. 
 
327 
 
 No 2.— Fillets of IVhitings a la Orlie. 
 
 After having scaled, emptied, and washed the 
 whitings, take up the fillets. Pare them nicely on 
 both sides, without damaging the skin. Cut each 
 fillet in two pieces of an equal size, and put them 
 into an earthen pan with a few stalks of parsley, 
 and a few shalots shredded, some salt, pepper, and* 
 the juice of a lemon; stir the whole in the lemon- 
 juice. Let it marinade for about three hours. 
 Then drain the fillets on a clean towel. Next beat 
 the whites of two eggs, so that they may stick to the 
 fillets. Mix some crumbs of bread and flour, dip 
 the fillets into the whites of eggs, and in the 
 crumbs of bread and flour, and fry the whole just 
 before they are wanted, in very hot dripping, that 
 they may be served up hot, with white sharp sauce. 
 See jnarechalle or ravigotte. 
 
 No. 3.— Quenelles of Whitings. 
 
 The same process as for other quenelles. The 
 mixtures are the same. You may make a vast 
 number of entrees with quenelles of whitings, sucli 
 as quenelles d VAllemande in a vol au vent , a cas¬ 
 serole au ris, and boudins, either d la Ude’ or d la 
 Richelieu , which you have poached and cooled. 
 Brush them over with an omelette and crumbs of 
 bread, and fry them. Serve under it an Italienne , 
 refined with a good lump of butter, &c. All en¬ 
 trees of fish require some additional butter in the 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 4-— Boudins of Whiting d la Ude. 
 
 Make z farce a quenelles , as for other quenelles. 
 Take the spawn of a lobster, which pound well, 
 with a little butter, and rub it through a sieve! 
 Mix the whole well with the farce d quenelles 
 
Then mould two boudins of the length of your 
 dish. Poach them. When they are done, drain 
 them on a clean towel, then have the tail of a very 
 red lobster, and scollop it in several pieces. Next 
 slit the boudins , and cover them with white becha- 
 toelle , then introduce the pieces of lobster in the 
 same way as if you were making a conti , observing 
 to put the red part upward. - When the boudins 
 are equally decorated, lay them in a dish, cover 
 them hermetically, and put them for a moment in 
 the hot closet to keep them hot. For the sauce, 
 take two spoonsful of bechamellc. Work it well 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, seasoned with 
 a very little Cayenne, some salt, and a little lemon- 
 juice. Keep it rather liquid, in order to mask the 
 intervals between the contis of lobster. If you pay 
 proper attention to the making of this entree , it 
 will not merely afford a pleasing appearance, but 
 will also be found a relish for the epicure. 
 
 5 ,—Fillets of Whitings broiled a la Maitre 
 d? Hotel. 
 
 Take up the fillets of four whitings, after having 
 washed them clean. Cut each fillet in two, brush 
 them with yolks of eggs, seasoned with pepper and 
 salt, and dip them into crumbs of bread, and next 
 into clarified butter. Broil them of a fine brown, 
 dish them en miroton, and sauce them with the 
 maitre di hotel. 
 
 N.B —Fillets of whitings never answer when 
 sautez , as they have not substance enough; and 
 indeed I do not altogether approve of their being 
 dressed in that style. 
 
 No. 6 .— Paupiettes of Fillets of Whitings. 
 
 Take up the fillets of four whitings, and pare 
 them equally. Spread some farce a quenelles over 
 
329 
 
 the white side; then roll the fillets. Erect a 
 small dome with some of the same farce, in the 
 dish you mean to send up your fish in. Lay one 
 row of fillets round the dish. Put farce enough to 
 support the second middle row, and finally put one 
 or three fillets in the centre of the dish, according 
 to the space that is left. Sprinkle a little salt over, 
 then cover the fish with buttered paper, that the 
 fillets may bake without getting dry. They will 
 be done in the course of twenty minutes. Then 
 take them out of the oven, and wipe the dish clean. 
 Put a good lump of butter, about a quarter of a 
 pound, into an Italienne , with a little essence of 
 anchovies; work the sauce, season it well, and 
 mask the fillets with it. 
 
 No. 7.— Whitings au gratin. 
 
 After having scaled, emptied, and washed the 
 whitings, wipe them clean. Preserve the liver. 
 Take a silver dish, if you have one, if not, a 
 baking-pan. Rub the bottom over with butter, 
 and sprinkle it over with parsley and mushrooms 
 chopped very fine, over which lay the whitings. 
 Then take some rasps of bread, that are not burnt, 
 and sprinkle them over the whitings, with pepper, 
 salt, and grated nutmeg: then again dust them 
 over with sweet herbs ; namely, parsley and mush¬ 
 rooms, chopped very fine. (If shalots are approved 
 of, you may add some.) Next lay small lumps of 
 butter on the whitings; pour into the dish a glass 
 or two of white wine, and bake them in a hot oven. 
 They will be done within a quarter of an hour, or 
 twenty minutes, according to their size. Serve 
 them up with the juice of a lemon, and no other 
 sauce. This is a very palatable dish, but a com¬ 
 mon one; if there is too much sauce, reduce it on 
 
330 
 
 a stove, as it must be very short, as it is called au 
 gratia. because it is a short sauce. 
 
 No. 8.— Whitings fried. 
 
 According to the French fashion, you must not 
 tiay the whitings, only slit and dip them in flour, 
 and then fry them in very hot dripping, and serve 
 them without any sauce. In England they take 
 off* the skin, and fasten the tail in the mouth ; they 
 are then dipped into an omelette , then in a little 
 flour and crumbs of bread. Fry them of a fine 
 colour, and serve them up on a cloth, garnished 
 with parsley, and send the shrimp sauce in a boat. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of flour, a small glass 
 of water, some salt and pepper, and a spoonful of 
 essence of anchovies; put this on the stove; as 
 soon as the sauce is thick, take it off, and put in 
 the shrimps, after having well washed them . 
 
 SOLES. 
 
 No. 1.— Soles au Water Suchet. 
 
 Take some very fresh soles; scale the white side, 
 and skin the black one. Empty out all the intes¬ 
 tines, and wash the fish in several waters. When 
 they are quite clean, boil them in a water suchet , 
 which is made as follows: 
 
 Take some roots of parsley, and cut them into slices 
 
 * Never neglect to season your sauce ; without seasoning, 
 cookery goes for nothing. 
 
331 
 
 as for a julienne, about the eighth of an inch thick, 
 and an inch long. Put these roots into some water 
 with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and a little * 
 salt, and let them stew for an hour ; then stew the 
 soles in this water. When they are done, have 
 ready some leaves of parsley, (without stalks,) 
 which have been blanched separately in salt and 
 w T ater. Drain the soles, and mind that the parsley- 
 roots, cut into slips as above-mentioned, must be 
 preserved. Then put the soles into a tureen, or 
 a deep dish, with some of the liquor in which they 
 have been stewed, and which you strain through a 
 silk sieve. Throw in the roots of parsley, and the 
 leaves likewise, and send up the water suchet with¬ 
 out any bread in it; but in a separate plate send 
 up a few slices of rye bread and butter. This 
 broth must be salt, like sea water. 
 
 No. 2.— Paupiette of Fillets of Soles. 
 
 The farce must be made of whiting, the flesh 
 of soles not blending with any other ingredient; 
 you may keep the skin on the white side of the 
 soles, provided you scrape them well; spread the 
 farce over the inside of the fillets, and roll them 
 as you do the paupiettes of beef palates, or fillets 
 of wdiiting. Dish alternately a white fillet and one 
 without the skin, as they look better so: do them 
 in the oven as other paupiettes ; drain the butter, 
 and serve. 
 
 Use the same sauce as for whitings, (see No. 6, 
 page 328), or white sharp sauce, (No. 25, page 
 14). 
 
 No. 3.— Fillets of Soles sautez a la Ravigotte. 
 
 First scale the soles, and wash them, but do not 
 empty them. Take up the fillets, by running 
 
332 
 
 your knife first between the bone and the flesh, 
 then between the skin and the fillet; by leaning 
 pretty hard on the table, you may be sure they 
 will come off very neatly. Cut them in two. 
 Marie them in a saute- pan with some melted butter, 
 and dust them over with pepper and salt. When 
 dinner-time is come, sautez them over a very brisk 
 fire, turn them over, and when done, drain them 
 on a sheet of white paper. Dish them either en 
 couronne , or en miroton. Cover them, and keep 
 them hot. Do not forget to drain the water which 
 has issued from the fillets, before you pour the 
 sauce over them. (See below, Ravigotte a la 
 Creme.) 
 
 Ravigotte a la Creme. —Put into a small stew- 
 pan three spoonsful of very thick bechamelle or 
 sauce & la creme , one tea-spoonful of cavice, one 
 ditto of elder vinegar, one ditto of vinegar & la 
 ravigotte , and a quarter of a pound of very fresh 
 butter; mix all this with salt and a very little 
 Cayenne, add a tea-spoonful of parsley, chopped 
 very fine, that has been blanched in salt water, 
 that it may be very green, drain it on a sieve, and 
 press the water out of it, in order to keep your 
 ravigotte sauce thick enough to cover the fillets. 
 You must make this sauce very smooth and palat¬ 
 able ; as the cavice darkens the sauce, add to it a 
 spoonful of double cream. 
 
 No. 4.— Fillets of Soles it la Orlie. 
 
 The same process, and the same sauce as for 
 fillets of whiting, No. 2, page 327. 
 
 No. 5.—Timballes of Fillets of Soles it la Veni- 
 
 tienne. 
 
 When you have served soles, either fried or 
 boiled, you must preserve a sufficient quantity to 
 
333 
 
 make one entree on the following day. Fare well 
 the skin, and cut the meat into small dice. Take 
 two spoonsful of bechamelle , which mix wdth a 
 quarter of a pound of very fresh butter; add to it 
 a little parsley, chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of 
 cavice (from Mackay’s), and half a tea-spoonful of 
 elder vinegar. Keep the whole hot, without boil¬ 
 ing. Put the small dice of fish into this sauce, 
 season it w ith pepper and salt; fill the little tim¬ 
 bal les, and serve up quite hot. The timbcdles are 
 to be made in dariole moulds. 
 
 No. 6.— Vol au Vent of Fillets of Soles with 
 Cream Sauce. 
 
 This is another entree of desserte * Pare the 
 skin ; cut the soles into round pieces of the size of 
 half-a-crown. Then have a sauce d la creme , 
 or else four spoonsful of bechamelle , mixed with 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, a little salt and 
 pepper. Let the sauce be made hot, without 
 boiling, put the soles into it, and then the whole 
 mixed into a vol au vent. The sauce must be 
 kept rather thick, for fear of making the crust 
 soft. 
 
 *o. 7 .—Fillets of Soles a VAurore. 
 
 T. ake up the fillets of four soles : skin them on 
 both sides. Have ready a farce a quenelles, made 
 ot whitings, with the spawn of lobsters put in, to 
 make it look reddish. Spread this farce over each 
 fillet, then roll them in the same manner as the 
 paupiettes. Next skewer them with silver skewers, 
 three to each skewer; dust a little pepper and salt 
 over them. Season the farce rather high. Lay 
 
 * Entrie of desserte, means something left from the preced¬ 
 ing day. 
 
334 
 
 the skewered fillets in a baking-pan, cover them 
 with layers of bacon, and bake them. When they 
 are done, take off the skewers, pare the farce that 
 has over-reached, and dish them neatly. With a 
 part of the pounded lobster’s spawn which you 
 have kept aside, mix two spoonsful of sauce tournee , 
 deprived of all fat, and a good lump of fresh 
 butter ; drain the Avhole through a tammy, in order 
 that it may be fine. Add to it a little essence of 
 anchovies, with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. 
 Keep the sauce very hot, and mask the fillets with 
 it. Observe, all the bacon must be taken off. 
 
 No. 8.— Soles a la Miromesnil. 
 
 Take three soles, scale them on both sides, and 
 empty them nicely without injuring the flesh. 
 Make an incision on the black side. Fry them 
 without dipping them into flour. When they are 
 done, drain them on a clean cloth ; open the place 
 where you have made the incision, cut the bone 
 near the head and tail, and draw it out. Let 
 the fish cool. Make a maitre dlidtel cold ; that is 
 to say, mix a lump of butter with some parsley 
 chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and the juice of a 
 lemon. Divide the butter into three equal parts, 
 and put one part into the opening of each sole, 
 close the opening, and make the whole stick by 
 means of the yolk of an egg; put a few crumbs 
 of bread at the joint. Then dip the soles into 
 an omelette of two eggs, and next into crumbs of 
 bread, equally on all sides. When dinner-time is 
 eome, fry the soles in hot dripping. They are 
 done as soon as they have got a colour. The sauce 
 is found in the sole itself. This is what w T e call 
 in France an entree bourgeoise. 
 
335 
 
 No. 9.—Aspic and Salad of Fillets of Soles, with 
 Butter of Montpelier. 
 
 Butter of Montpelier .—Take a handful of cher¬ 
 vil, tarragon, burnet, and green onions; wash them 
 very clean, and blanch them in boiling water, with 
 a handful of salt to keep them as green as possible. 
 When they have boiled six minutes, take them out, 
 and put them into cold water till quite cold : you 
 must have ready some hard-boiled eggs; drain 
 the herbs, and squeeze all the water out; put 
 them into the mortar, and pound them very fine ; 
 add the yolks of eight eggs, ten or twelve ancho¬ 
 vies, cleaned and boned, two spoonfuls of fine 
 capers, a very little garlick, some salt, a little 
 Cayenne, and a little nutmeg; pound all this till 
 very fine, then add half a pound of very fresh 
 butter, a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful of 
 elder or tarragon vinegar; taste if the seasoning is 
 very palatable. Rub it all through a sieve, and 
 to make it of a greener colour, add some green of 
 spinach; you must be particular in observing- that 
 none of the different herbs should predominate: 
 put this butter into ice, and you may use it for 
 borders of salads of fish, &c. &c. When you want 
 to make this butter red, you must infuse all the 
 herbs in a little boiled vinegar, and use lobster 
 spawn to colour it, instead of the green of spinach. 
 
 It is occasionally requisite to dress soles on 
 purpose, to make either aspics , or salad ; in this 
 case it is better to fry them with the skin, rather 
 than take up the fillets and sautez them. When 
 they are fried, the fillets come off neater, and 
 without any scum. If, however, you have sent 
 up to table an entree , or a dish of fillets of soles, 
 that has been returned untouched, you may make 
 a salad with them. Fare them nicely, Endeavour 
 
always to procure some green salad, of any sort, to 
 dish them with. Nature will always supply you 
 with agreeable colours, without painting what is 
 intended to be eaten. I like to see a bed of fresh 
 salad, or of mustard seed, on a dish. Then dish 
 the fillets en miroton; ornament them with beet¬ 
 root, nasturtium, small white onions stewed, chervil, 
 pickled cucumbers, and red turnip-radishes ; but 
 above all tilings, take care not to lose time in orna¬ 
 menting the salad, and do not pour the sauce over 
 the decoration. (The sauce for a salad is to be 
 found underneath.) The aspic of Jillets of soles 
 is hardly admissible except at balls, when the mul¬ 
 tiplicity of dishes may require their being intro¬ 
 duced ; but in general it is a very indifferent 
 article. Salad is always preferable. First, put a 
 little aspic into a mould to acquire a substance, 
 and when it is chilled, make some ornaments with 
 the whites of eggs boiled hard, some black truffles, 
 some gherkins, or beet-root. When you have made 
 decorations, with all sorts of eatable things, pour in 
 some of the liquid aspic gently, to settle all this 
 together, and put the mould in the ice; when the 
 aspic is frozen again, put the fillets au miroton 
 over the aspic; but mind when you return the 
 mould that the miroton is on the right side ; 
 then fill up the mould with the aspic , very near 
 the top of the fillets of soles; let it freeze, and 
 when becomes quite stiff, put some of the mayonaise 
 all round the fillets, or some of the montpelier 
 butter, and add some more aspic, quite cold, 
 otherwise the butter will dilute in the jelly, and 
 will appear muddy; fill the mould to the rim, and 
 let it freeze; at dinner-time, dip a rubber in hot 
 water, with which rub the mould, and turn the 
 aspic on tiie dish. When judiciously made, this 
 is a pretty dish, but should never be attempted by 
 
337 
 
 a clumsy person, who would inevitably bring dis¬ 
 grace on the art. 
 
 Salad Sauce. —Take the yolks of four eggs, 
 boiled hard, put them into the mortar with a 
 spoonful of mustard; pound this very fine; add 
 to it salt and pepper, two spoonsful of vinegar, 
 and three of sweet oil; you may put also a spoon¬ 
 ful of tarragon or elder vinegar. If you have in 
 your larder a good jelly of meat, you may occa¬ 
 sionally put some to it, but do not put any cream, 
 as some do, for it is very unwholesome ; you may 
 put some chopped herbs, as chervil, tarragon, 
 burnet, &c. if approved of. In making salad sauce, 
 you should be cautious not to use any of the herbs 
 mentioned, without consulting the taste of your 
 employer. 
 
 No. 10.— Croquettes of Fillets of' Soles. 
 
 Several books mention croquettes of salmon , and 
 croquettes of cod, which are certainly not eatable. 
 Sturgeon and soles are the only two fishes which 
 have a sufficient firmness to allow of their being 
 made into croquettes. The oftener a fish is pre¬ 
 sented to the tire, the more unpalatable it becomes. 
 With regard to the croquettes of soles, reduce the 
 sauce, cut the soles into small dice, and throw 
 them into it, season them well, and put the whole 
 preparation into ice. When cold, cut them into 
 equal parts on a dish. Roll them either round, or 
 oval, but never into pears; dip them into an 
 omelette of two eggs, put a little salt, and then 
 dip them into crumbs of bread, fry them of a good 
 colour, and serve them up with crisp fried green 
 parsley in the middle. 
 
 No. 11.— Fillets of Soles dla Turque. 
 
 Take off and sautez the fillets as directed before. 
 
 o. 
 
338 
 
 Have some rice swelled, and made soft in good 
 consomme ; mix it with a few spoonsful of good 
 bechamelle , to put in the middle of the dish: this 
 rice must be thick, in order that it may be dished 
 in a pyramid. To mask the soles, take three 
 spoonsful of bechamelle , mixed with a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of cavice, and a 
 little salt and pepper. Work this sauce well, and 
 mask the fillets only. The rice is to form the 
 centre of the turban, as implied by the title. 
 
 FRESH HERRINGS. 
 
 Herrings are an excellent fish ; but the flesh is 
 so delicate, that no cook attempts to dress them 
 otherwise than broiled or fried. Those with soft 
 roes are the most delicate. You know them to be 
 very fresh when the eyes are very red, and the 
 scales shine bright. You must broil them over a 
 brisk fire, but never wash them. Wipe them well, 
 empty and scale them carefully ; cut off a small 
 piece of the tail and of the head, to prevent them 
 from burning. Send them to table with mustard 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 Soft Boes of Herrings , in Cases. 
 
 Have a paper case, either round or square; its 
 size must be suited to the dish you are going to 
 use ; spread some butter over the bottom. Broil 
 eight very fresh soft-roed herrings, and when well 
 done, take out the roes, and put them, withoutbreak- 
 ing, into the case. Sprinkle over them a little pep¬ 
 per, salt, rasped bread, and finely chopped parsley; 
 put a few small bits of butter over them in different 
 places, and bake them in a hot oven. When they 
 are done, put a little maitre dhotel into the case, 
 
339 
 
 with the juice of a lemon. Send up quite hot, and 
 very firm. 
 
 This dish can never be properly prepared if you 
 do not take the precaution to wash the herrings; 
 scale them very well, and wipe them first with 
 a damp cloth, and afterwards with a dry one, then 
 broil them very sharply, so as to keep the soft roe 
 very firm. Act as before directed. The case 
 should be made of strong foolscap paper. 
 
 PIPER. 
 
 This fish is not in the repute which it deserves; 
 for when it is well dressed, it is superior to any 
 other, but it should be used when very fresh. 
 
 No. 1 .—-Baked Piper, Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Empty and clean this fish as you do every other, 
 then make a good stuffing in the following manner: 
 two handsful of crumbs of bread, the same quan¬ 
 tity of beef suet, well chopped, parsley, and a little 
 thyme chopped very fine, two whole eggs, a drop 
 of cream, a small bit of blitter, salt, a little 
 Cayenne pepper, and a very little spice, ground 
 very fine: mix this very well, and put it into the 
 belly of the fish, and sew it up; bind the tail of 
 the fish to the mouth, and fasten it with a skewer, 
 then rub the fish all over with a brush dipped into 
 the yolk of an egg; sprinkle over some salt, then 
 some crumbs of bread, and baste with clarified 
 butter ; then put this to bake in a very hot oven, in 
 order to give it a good colour. When done, drain 
 it, and serve up with Dutch sauce. 
 
 No. 2 .—Fillets of Piper, d la Stfton. 
 
 Take one large piper, or three small ones, strip 
 
 Q. 
 
 9 
 
340 
 
 the flesh from the bone, and divide it into fillets of 
 the same shape; then put them into a saute -pan 
 with melted butter, as for other fillets, with salt 
 and pepper; when it is dinner time put them on 
 the stove, or into the oven ; when done, drain 
 them, and dish them the same as fillets of soles, 
 and the sauce is the same; but they are better 
 eating than either soles or whitings. 
 
 No. 3 .—Fillets of Piper a la Alaitre d’Hotel. 
 
 The same as No. 2, only you must use the 
 maitre d'hot el instead of vchite sharp sauce. 
 
 No. 4 .—Fillets of Piper_ a la Orlie. 
 
 The same as Fillets of Whiting, No. 2, page 
 S27. Observe that the piper is best Avhen red. 
 
 RED MULLET. 
 
 This fish is in great repute, and deserves it, 
 for the delicacy of its flesh ; you may boil them ; 
 but in genera], to eat them in great perfection, you 
 must wash them well, but not empty them: drain 
 them very dry in a clean cloth; then have some 
 buttered paper and a little salt, Avrap them well in 
 it, and put them into the oven, or broil them if 
 you have no oven. They may be eaten with lobster 
 sauce, or anchovy sauce alone; send them to table 
 without the paper. 
 
 You may dress them in another Avay, by putting 
 them in the oven in a buttered baking dish, and 
 covering them with buttered paper ; when they are 
 done, serve over them the following sauce :— 
 
 A description of Genevoise ;—Put in a small stew- 
 pan, a little bit of butter, a few pieces of ham, cut 
 in dice, a few leaves of mace, two cloves, a little 
 
341 
 
 thyme, a few bits of mushroom, some parsley roots, 
 one shalot, cut in four, and a small bit of carrot; fry 
 them on a slow fire till they become a little brown, 
 then moisten with a glass of good Madeira, and 
 put but little sugar; reduce the wine to half the 
 quantitjr, add to this a spoonful or two of good 
 Espagnole , skim away all the fat, put the sauce 
 through a tammy, and and to it a bit of fresh butter, 
 about a quarter of a pound, add to this the gravy 
 from the fish. Season the sauce of very good 
 taste, with salt, pepper, lemon, &c., and if the sauce 
 should not be thick enough, add a small bit of 
 butter, with a little flour. 
 
 MAC KAREL. 
 
 No. 1 .—Mackarel broiled a la Maitre d'Hotel. 
 
 Mackarel is a fish generally esteemed by all 
 ranks of people. The rich eat it on account of its 
 good savour, the poor because it is cheap. It must 
 not be washed, when intended to be broiled. 
 Empty and wipe it well. Open the back, and put 
 into it a little salt and oil. Broil it on a gentle 
 fire; turn it over on both sides, and also on the 
 back. With the point of your knife try if it is done, 
 by detaching the bone from the flesh. Send it up 
 with a maitre di'hotel melted, in a boat. When 
 vou wish to eat them very good, and have the 
 taste of the fish, they must not be washed ; only 
 pull out the gills, and empty the intestines ; then 
 wipe them clean and dry with a damp cloth ; next 
 make an incision on the back, put over them some 
 salt and pepper, and a drop of sweet oil, to prevent 
 them from sticking to the gridiron; broil them 
 well, and then put into the back some butter, 
 kneaded with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and 
 lemon, &c. as directed above. 
 
342 
 
 No. 2.— Mackarel boiled. 
 
 When the mackarel have been emptied and 
 washed clean, put them into boiling water, with a 
 handful of salt, and let them boil very fast that 
 they may be firmer. When they are done, drain 
 them, and serve them on a cloth with green fennel 
 all round. For the sauce, blanch some fennel in 
 salt and water. When it is quite soft, drain it, 
 chop it, and mix it with the melted butter. 
 Gooseberries are also used for the sauce. Blanch 
 them, when soft lay them in a hair sieve to drain. 
 Squeeze them with a wooden spoon, and strain 
 them through a hair sieve. Throw the puree into 
 a stew-pan with a little sugar and butter, and when 
 hot, send up the sauce in a boat. 
 
 No. 3.— Fillets of Mackarel d la Ste. Menhoult. 
 
 Take the fillets of three mackarel, cut each fillet 
 into two. Pare them equally, season them with 
 pepper and salt; then take the yolks of two eggs, 
 beat them well, and rub the fillets over with the 
 brush: dip them first into crumbs of bread, next 
 into clarified butter, and then into crumbs of bread 
 again. Broil them of a fine colour, and serve them 
 up en mirotoii with a white sharp sauce in the 
 middle. (S ee Martchale, or Maitre d’hotel.) 
 
 No. 4.— Fillets of Mackarel- sautez a la Maitre 
 
 d' Hotel. 
 
 Take the fillets of three mackarel, cut them in 
 two, mark them in a saute- pan with some melted 
 butter, salt, and pepper. At dinner-time sautez 
 them on both sides. When they are done, drain, 
 take off the blue skin; dish, and mask them with 
 the maitre d'hotel. 
 
343 
 
 No. 5 ._Fillets of Mackarel a la Ravigotte. 
 
 Sautez them the same as above. For ravigotte 
 u la crime, see Ravigotte cl la creme. 
 
 No. 6.— TimbalLe of soft Roes of Mackarel d la 
 
 Seft on. 
 
 Take the soft roes of four large mackarel. Do 
 not wash the fish, for the roes then would turn 
 black and soft. Mark the roes in melted butter, 
 without any salt; cover them with the butter, and 
 either bake them in the oven, or let them sweat on 
 a stove. Take care not to break them. When 
 they are done, lay them on a sheet of white paper 
 to drain: dust a little salt over them, and cut them 
 into small dice as neatly as possible. Put these 
 into petite pates, which keep hot, and make the 
 following sauce, which is to be put afterwards into 
 the petitep&tes. Take two spoonsful of bechamel, 
 add a small bit of butter with pepper and salt. 
 Refine this sauce with some thick cream. Keep it 
 hot, fill the pates in which the soft roes are, but 
 mind that it is liquid enough to penetrate the roes. 
 Above all, send up quite hot. This entree is 
 much esteemed by the daintiest epicures. 
 
 N.B .—If you have a grand dinner, four roack- 
 arel will make two entrees without any connoisseur 
 having occasion to find fault, as they will both differ 
 in flavour as well as in form and appearance. 
 
 Observe, that you give the soft roes for pates, 
 and the fillets for a dish of filets of mackarel. 
 
 No. 7.— Soft Roes of Mackarel in Cases. 
 
 Take six very fresh soft-roed mackarel. Broil 
 them till well done, then take the roes from them, 
 and put them into small cases, with parsley chopped 
 fine, a little rasped crust of bread, salt, pepper, 
 
344 
 
 and a little butter; then put them into the o7 en » 
 when they are very hot, send them to table a 
 drop of white sharp sauce, and the juice of a 
 lemon. This will only make a small' dish, but 
 when you want to make it larger, put more soft 
 roes, and use the mackarel for fillets as a fish dish. 
 
 VIVE GRILLEE. SEA-DRAGON. 
 
 Sea-dragon is a fish that is seldom eaten in 
 England, although in France it is frequently sent 
 up to table. Towards the gills there is a most 
 venomous bone. We always broil it, and serve 
 it up with a butter of anchovies, a maUre cThotel , 
 or a provengale. 
 
 ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Anchovies are a salt fish of great utility, and of 
 frequent necessity in cookery. Essence of ancho¬ 
 vies is a thing w hich a skilful cook must use with 
 great care, as it is not alw ays made with the fish 
 only, but also with the brine of it, which conse¬ 
 quently makes it very unhealthy. Make butter 
 of anchovies yourself, in the following manner : 
 for a dozen of anchovies, a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter will do. First wash the anchovies, 
 so that no slime whatever may remain. Take 
 off the bones and fins. Pound the meat with the 
 butter. When well pounded, rub the whole 
 through a hair sieve, and secure it in a gallipot 
 well covered. Use butter of anchovies" when 
 wanted, for either canapes, salads, fish sauce, &c. ; 
 anchovies are very seldom used with meat. 
 
 
345 
 
 SMELTS. 
 
 Smelts are most generally fried. After they 
 have been cleaned and emptied, wipe them very 
 dry, and dip them into an omelette of two eggs, 
 and into crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry 
 them of a fine colour, and send them up with fried 
 parsley round them. 
 
 SKATE. 
 
 No. 1.— Skate with Caper Sauce , French fashion* 
 
 Stew the skate in a marinade , that is to say, in 
 a vessel with water, vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced 
 onion, parsley, green onions, bay-leaves, and thyme. 
 When it is done, pick it neatly, and remove it into 
 another clean vessel; pour over it some of the 
 liquor in which it has been boiling, then drain it 
 and send it up to table, either entire or in pieces, 
 with caper sauce; or in hearts, masked with the 
 same sauce. 
 
 No. 2.— Skate au Beurre noir. 
 
 Fry some parsley very green. Dish the skate 
 according to your fancy. For an entree you 
 must either cut it into the shape of kites, or rounds. 
 Put the fried parsley in the middle of the dish, 
 and the heurre noir under the fish. 
 
 No. 3.— Skate plain boiled. 
 
 Take off the skin. Boil it in salt and water, 
 and send it up on a clean cloth, with shrimp sauce, 
 or any other sauce in a boat. 
 
 * It may be proper to notice, that in France, where the fish 
 is not so fresh as in this country, they are obliged to season 
 this preparation more highly, to hide the stench of the skate. 
 
 Q 3 
 
346 
 
 No. 4.— Small Skates fried. 
 
 When the skates are very small, pickle them in 
 vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, some parsley, 
 and lemon-juice for about an hour. Next drain 
 them and dip them into an omelette , and then into 
 flour. Next fry them in hot dripping, and send 
 them up either with or without sauce. This fish 
 is very seldom used for entrees in England ; when 
 it is boiled with marinade , the skin must remain 
 while boiling, otherwise the colour of the marinade 
 will dye the fish : take off the skin after it is done, 
 and dress it in the dish immediately. 
 
 MIROTON OF FLOUNDERS A L’lTALIENNE. 
 
 Cut each flounder in two, and take out all the 
 small bones. Butter a dish d'entree, and dish the 
 flounders en miroton; dust them over with salt, 
 pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, pars¬ 
 ley, green onions, and raspings of bread : to which 
 add a little butter. Then bake them. When they 
 are done, drain the butter, and send them up with 
 an Italienne or caper sauce; add a little essence of 
 anchovies and lemon-juice. This fish, as well as 
 plaice, is seldom used for entrees in England. 
 When you give them as fish, they are to be 
 dressed the same as soles, either fried or boiled. 
 
 PLAICE. 
 
 See Flounders. Plaice can only be fried, or 
 made en miroton as above. 
 
 LOBSTER. 
 
 Lobsters are boiled in the same manner as craw- 
 
347 
 
 fish, but they would have a better savour if sea¬ 
 water could be had to boil them in. Several ra¬ 
 gouts are made of lobsters. Pies for entrees; 
 salades for entremets; fish sauce, and minces in the 
 shell, &c. You must pay attention to the proper 
 time required for boiling a lobster ; if you boil it 
 too long, the flesh becomes thready and disagree¬ 
 able; and if not done enough, the spawn is not 
 red through : this must be obviated by great at¬ 
 tention. 
 
 No. 1.— Small Timbals of Lobster, au veloute. 
 
 Cut according to their size, the white flesh of 
 one or two lobsters into small dice; put them into 
 a sauce similar to that of pates of fillets of soles, 
 and serve them up quite hot. This is an entree. 
 The spawn will serve for fish sauce, or for any 
 other use ; as quenelles, or salads, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 2.— Scollops of Lobster in the Shell. 
 
 This is an entremet. Take one or two lobsters, 
 according to the size of the dish, or the number of 
 people you have to dinner. Cut the lobster in two 
 without breaking the shell. Clean the inside of 
 the shell, cut the meat of the lobsters into small 
 dice, and preserve the kind of farce that is inside. 
 Then take one or two spoonsful of veloute, a small 
 bit of butter, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, and 
 keep stirring the whole over the fire. When it is 
 quite hot, throw the meat and the kind of farce 
 that you found in the lobster into the sauce, and 
 lay the whole in the shells. Level with your knife 
 and strew over crumbs of bread twice, and keep 
 basting with a little melted butter. Give it a 
 colour with the salamander, and keep the scollops 
 very hot. Never let it colour in the oven, as it 
 would taste too strong. 
 
348 
 
 No. 3 .—Lobster Sauce. 
 
 See No. 56, page 28. 
 
 No. 4.— Salad of Lobster. 
 
 See Salad of Fillets of Soles and mayonaise / 
 the sauce is to be found among the other sauces. 
 The shape you give to the salad depends on the 
 form of the dish you use. Jelly of meat is not 
 properly used for salads of fish,' unless it is as an 
 ornament. Roots and vegetables are more appro¬ 
 priate ; and the salad sauce only, or the butter of 
 Montpelier. Lobster may be dressed also without 
 any sauce: merely break the shell, and give an 
 agreeable shape to the dish by putting the body in 
 the middle, the tail cut in two on each side, and 
 the claws at the ends; the flesh of this fish is very 
 firm, and can be used in cookery for petits pates 
 of all kinds. 
 
 MUSSELS AU PERSINET, DITES A LA 
 POULETTE. 
 
 Wash the mussels; be particular in taking off 
 all the threads that are found about the joint of 
 the shell, and be cautious of the small crabs, as 
 they are very dangerous eating. Tut the mussels 
 into a stew-pan over a brisk Hre, and keep them 
 covered that they may be be done equally. When 
 they are done, take off one of the shells, dip the 
 mussel into the liquor that has issued from them, 
 in order to wash off the sand. When they have 
 all been picked, let the liquor stand, drain it, pour 
 it into a clean vessel, and then make the following 
 sauce: 
 
 Put a small lump of butter with a spoonful of 
 
349 
 
 flour into a stew-pan, and make a little white rowr , 
 to prevent the flour getting brown; moisten with 
 the above-mentioned liquor, add a small bunch of 
 parsley and green onions, and stew them for half 
 an hour. Then take the bunch out, and replace 
 it with a little parsley chopped very fine. Next 
 take the yolks of two or four eggs, according to the 
 quantity of the mussels, to thicken the sauce, which 
 season well, but be rather sparing of salt. Mix 
 the mussels with the sauce .; let them be just hot 
 through, and squeeze the juice of a lemon into 
 the sauce, which must be thick, in order to adhere 
 to the mussels. They are dangerous eating in the 
 dog-days. 
 
 CRABS 
 
 Are prepared and cooked in the same manner as 
 lobsters, but are eaten with oil and vinegar, after 
 having arranged the meat in fillets, and the small 
 claws all round. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 No. 1 .—Scollops of Oysters. 
 
 The English green oysters are the best that are 
 known. After having opened them, boil them in their 
 own liquor, but do not let them be too much done. 
 Next beard them and return them into the liquor, 
 out of which you take them with a bored ladle. 
 Let the liquor stand, and drain it from the sand. 
 Make a little white roux , moisten with the liquor, 
 and when the sauce is got pretty thick, add a 
 spoonful or two of cream, and a spoonful of 
 bechamelle; put the oysters into this sauce and 
 season them with salt and pepper. Next put them 
 
350 
 
 into the shell used for that purpose, strew them 
 over twice with butter and crumbs of bread ; give 
 them a good colour with the salamander, and serve 
 them up very hot with the juice of a lemon. You 
 may grate a little nutmeg over them if you think 
 proper; but never omit parsley chopped very fine. 
 Some people add mushrooms, which are no im¬ 
 provement. 
 
 No. 2 .—Small Oyster Patties d, la Sefton. 
 
 Pick out the smallest oysters you can find, and 
 boil and beard them as above. Make the sauce 
 also in the same manner, only add to it a little 
 cavice and butter, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Have about two dozen of small patties ready ; fill 
 them with oysters and as much sauce as they will 
 hold; have also some crumbs of bread fried of a 
 fine colour, strew some over the small pies, which 
 dish en buisson. Serve them up very hot. This 
 addition of the fried crumbs of bread gives a very 
 pleasant taste. 
 
 No. 3 .—Small Patties a la Fran^aise. 
 
 After having boiled the oysters, beard them, 
 and cut them into dice. Have some mushrooms 
 also cut into dice, which you fry in a little butter 
 dusted over with flour. Moisten with some of the 
 liquor of the oysters, one or two spoonsful of 
 consomme , two spoonsful of cream, and let it 
 reduce. Add a small bit of butter; season well 
 with salt and Cayenne pepper ; throw the oysters 
 into the sauce, and fill the patties, which must be 
 in dariole moulds, otherwise called timbals. 
 
 No. 4 .—Oyster Sauce. (Sec No. 96, page 47.) 
 
 If you should be in a hurry, mark in a stew-pan 
 a good lump of butter, a spoonful or two of flour, 
 
351 
 
 moisten with the liquor of the oysters, and put 
 the sauce on the fire, but do not let it boil. 
 When it is thick, throw in the oysters, with a 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cavice , 
 a spoonful of thick cream, and serve up. 
 
 No. 5 .—Oyster Sauce for Entrees.* 
 
 After having stewed the oysters as above, make 
 a white roux , into which you put a few small 
 onions, mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions. Moisten with some of the liquor, and a 
 few spoonsful of consomme , which reduce over a 
 large fire. Then add a pint of cream; season well; 
 keep the sauce pretty thick, strain it through a 
 tammy, put in the oysters whole, and use it with 
 such articles as require oyster sauce; the only 
 thing to be observed is, that when it is for fish, you 
 must use essence of anchovies. 
 
 No. 6 .—Attelets of Oysters. 
 
 This entree , which is no great favourite, has 
 found its way into this work, on account of its 
 being occasionally called for. Stew the oysters as 
 above. Have a sauce cTattelets, moisten with 
 some of the liquor, and let it stand to cool. Then 
 skewer the oysters according to the size of your 
 dish, and with your knife spread the sauce all 
 round. Throw crumbs of bread over the oysters; 
 next dip them into an omelette , and then into 
 crumbs again. Fry them of a fine brown, and serve 
 them up without any sauce; if any, the sauce made 
 with the oyster is the best. 
 
 The sauce cl'attelets is made as follows: fry some 
 herbs (as parsley, shalots, mushrooms) in a little 
 butter, put a spoonful of flour, moisten with the 
 
 * Such as fowl, turkey, chicken, &c. 
 
352 
 
 liquor of the oysters, season it well, reduce the 
 sauce, then thicken it with the yolks of three eggs, 
 and pour it over the oysters. Let the whole stand 
 till cold, and then make the cdtelets in the same 
 way as other attelets; the sauce must be only 
 bechamelle with the taste of oysters : do not omit 
 the seasoning, salt, pepper, &c. 
 
 Observation relative to alt sorts of Fish Sauces. 
 
 Fish sauces should always be thick enough to 
 adhere to the fish. When the sauce is too liquid 
 it is abominable ; of the two, the thick is preferable, 
 as you can make it thinner at table, by adding some 
 of the cruet sauces. 
 
353 
 
 OF EGGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 Eggs are indispensable in cookery. They are 
 tised for a prodigious number of entrees, entremets, 
 and sauces. Eggs are the original of all pastry, 
 as well as of creams. The author will proceed to 
 shew the manner in which they may be used, either 
 for first or second courses. You should, however, 
 be particular in the use of them, a single bad one 
 will spoil a very large dish, and when you make 
 biscuit, liaison, oeufs brouill.es, <^c. fyc., you should 
 break them, and smell them one after the other : 
 when you remove the yolk from the white you 
 should have a small basin to break them in sepa¬ 
 rately. 
 
 No. 1 . — Omelette Moelleuse. 
 
 Break eight eggs into an earthen pan with a 
 little pepper and salt, and a sufficient quantity of 
 water to melt the salt. Beat the eggs well; then 
 throw an ounce and a half of fresh butter into a 
 frying-pan, and melt it over a brisk fire: pour the 
 eggs into the pan, which is not to be kept too close to 
 the fire. Keep turning continually, but never let 
 the middle part of it be over the fire, for it is 
 always rather too hot. Gather all the border to¬ 
 gether, and roll the omelette before it gets too 
 much done. The middle part must always be 
 kept mellow. Roll it equally with your knife be¬ 
 fore you dish it, and take care not to let the pan 
 soil the dish, in turning out the omelette into it. 
 
354 
 
 No. 2.— HOmelette aux fines Herbes. 
 
 The same preparation as above, with the addi¬ 
 tion only of a little parsley chopped very fine. 
 Some people mix a few chopped shalots likewise, 
 which may be done if approved of. 
 
 No. 3 .—Small Omelettes with Ham. 
 
 Mark these omelettes as above. If you have 
 some ham which has served as a remove, mince 
 about a quarter of a pound of it, which you throw 
 into a little very thick Espagnote. Then make 
 small omelettes of .about two eggs each. Before 
 you roll them, put in a spoonful of the minced ham. 
 You may make four or six, according to the size 
 of the dish. Take care not to put too much salt; 
 and if the ham is briny, do not put any salt at all. 
 You may put four or five omelettes to one dish. 
 (This is a second course dish.) 
 
 No. 4.— Small Omelettes with Sorrel. 
 
 Make small omelettes as above. Have some 
 sorrel ready stewed, which you put on each of 
 the omelettes before you roll them, the same as 
 above with ham. Give them a pleasing shape and 
 colour. The same number as above. 
 
 No. 5.— Omelette with Kidney of Veal. 
 
 If you have remaining the kidney of a roasted 
 loin of veal, chop it, and put it in an omelette , 
 prepared as in No. 1. Make it mellow, and season 
 it properly with salt. 
 
 No. 6.—Small Omelettes with Sweetmeats. 
 
 Make small omelettes as above. Let them be 
 done properly. Put in the sweetmeats before you 
 roll the omelettes , and lay them on the cover of a 
 
355 
 
 stew-pan. When they are all made, sprinkle over 
 them a little finely-pounded sugar, and then use the 
 salamander to glaze them of a fine colour. Ome¬ 
 lettes are always second course dishes, called entre¬ 
 mets. The only sweetmeats used in these dishes, 
 are currant jelly, or apricot marmalade. 
 
 No. 7 .—Fried Eggs. 
 
 Break some fresh eggs into a dish, without 
 damaging the yolks, and powder them over with a 
 little pepper and salt. Then fry some butter; a 
 quarter of a pound will do for a dozen of eggs. 
 When the butter is completely fried, pour it over 
 the eggs, and then put the eggs into the frying- 
 pan, which keep at a little distance from the fire, 
 for fear the eggs should stick. When they are 
 done at the bottom, use the salamander for the top, 
 till they turn white. Then dish without breaking 
 them, and pour over them a little vinegar. 
 
 No. 8 .—Eggs au Miroir. 
 
 Butter the dish in which you are to send up the 
 eggs, break eight of them, but mind that they are 
 fresh, seasoned with pepper and salt: then cut 
 small pieces of butter over the eggs, and use the 
 salamander, and a small fire under, till they are 
 quite white. They must not be too much done. 
 
 No. 9 .—Poached Eggs. 
 
 Boil some water with a little vinegar. Take 
 some fresh eggs, and break the point of the shell 
 with your knife, that the egg may drop into the 
 water without breaking. Turn with the shell to 
 gather all the white round the yolk. Never poach 
 more than four at a time. As soon as they are 
 done, take them out, one at a time, and throw them 
 into cold water. When you have poached the 
 
356 
 
 Humber you want, pare them well. Then with 
 your finger rub them gently over in the water, that 
 they may be very neat and white. They must be 
 very soft. These serve for a great number of en¬ 
 trees and entremets. They may be served with 
 sorrel, spinach, gravy of veal, clarified gravy, 
 Sic. &c. 
 
 No. 10 .—Fried Poached Eggs. 
 
 You must have a saute -pan made on purpose 
 for this dish, with little round holes in it, to fry the 
 eggs in boiling oil. They fry better and are drier, 
 when you use oil instead of butter. Fry them soft, 
 but of a very brown colour, and before you send 
 them up, powder a little salt over them and glaze 
 them. 
 
 No. 11 .—Eggs a la Tripe. 
 
 Make a little roux with flour and butter; fry a 
 few chopped onions in the same stew-pan before 
 the roux is made brown. Moisten with some good 
 boiling milk, pepper and salt. Let the flour and 
 onions be well done, and keep the sauce rather 
 thick. Next have ten eggs boiled hard, cut them 
 in quarters or in round slices, and put them into 
 the sauce. Stir gently, that the yolk may not 
 separate from the white, and serve up. 
 
 No. 12 .—Eggs a la Maitre d\Hotel. 
 
 Make a little white roux as above. Moisten 
 with some good boiling milk, pepper and salt : let 
 these stew for half an hour. Throw a quarter of 
 a pound of fresh butter into the sauce, with a little 
 parsley chopped very fine. Cut the eggs into the 
 sauce, and send up to table quite hot. Add the 
 juice of a lemon. 
 
No. 13 .—Eggs a VAurorc. 
 
 Cut a dozen of hard eggs in two ; take the yolks 
 from them, which strain through a hair sieve, then 
 make a sauce as follows: mark, in a stew-pan, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, half a spoonful of 
 flour, with pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, and 
 half a pint of cream. Then stew this sauce till 
 thick, but do not let it boil. Chop half the whites 
 of the eggs, and throw it into the sauce. Next 
 dish the whites, pour the yolks over them equally, 
 baste them with a little butter, and use the sala¬ 
 mander. Then serve up. 
 
 No. 14 .—Eggs en surprise. 
 
 Cut a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) in 
 two. Take all the yolks and pound them in a 
 mortar, with a quartern, or if you choose with half 
 a pound of butter, with which mix a little cream, 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. When you have 
 pounded about half an hour, add two raw egcs to 
 thicken the farce. Then pare out the inside of the 
 whites, and All one-half of them again with the 
 farce. Next mix some chopped parsley with part 
 of the farce, and fill the other half of the eggs. 
 Erect a little dome in the centre of the dish with 
 some of the farce , and trim it all round with the 
 stuffed eggs; contrive to give them a pleasing ap¬ 
 pearance. Next put them into an oven for ten 
 minutes, and send them up quite hot. In paring 
 the inside of the whites, you must leave only just 
 enough to keep in the farce. 
 
 No. 15 .—Croquettes of Eggs. 
 
 Cut the white of a dozen and a half of eggs 
 (boiled hard) into small dice. Strain the yolks of 
 six eggs through a hair sieve. Cut a couple of 
 
358 
 
 onions into dice, sweat them Avhite in a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, then put a spoonful of flour to 
 fry; moisten with boiling milk, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Next throw both the whites and 
 yolks into the sauce. Let them cool, and cover 
 them with crumbs of bread, as you do all other 
 croquettes . If you were to put in all the yolks, the 
 croquettes would get too dry ; the remaining yolks 
 may be used for salads, &c. Season of a good 
 taste, and put fried parsley in the middle. 
 
 No. 16*.— Andouilles of Eggs. 
 
 Cut the whites of eggs boiled hard into fillets as 
 long as you can make them : cut a few truffles, 
 onions, and mushrooms the same, sweat the whole 
 except the eggs, in a little butter. When done 
 put the ingredients in a hair sieve to drain the 
 butter. Next make a sauce d la creme , which 
 must be rather thick, mix the liquor in which the 
 truffles, &c. have been sweated, with the sauce, and 
 set them boiling. When it is thick enough, put 
 the fillets of eggs into it, and let it cool over ice. 
 Make two boudins , which you dip into an omelette , 
 as you do the boudins ci la Reine. Fry them, and 
 send them up with fried parsley between the 
 boudins. These make a very good entree when 
 you are short of dishes in the country. All the 
 preceding dishes, from No. 7 to this last, are 
 entrees. 
 
 No. 17.— Eggs a la Neige. 
 
 Beat some whites of eggs, which boil in milk, 
 with a little salt. Cut them all of a size with a 
 spoon, and drain them. Then boil a pint of cream. 
 When it boils, throw in the thin outside peel of 
 half a lemon, a little sugar, and a very small quan¬ 
 tity of salt; let the lemon steep. Then beat the 
 
359 
 
 yolks of four eggs with the cream, and let it 
 thicken on the fire. When the cream is thick 
 enough, strain it through a tammy, and mask the 
 eggs & la neigc with this sauce. Another time, 
 instead of lemon, use leaves of rose, or almond 
 laurel ; although in Lngland it is considered poison¬ 
 ous, a small quantity is never injurious. 
 
 No. 18 .—Les Cocottes. 
 
 Put a little fresh butter at the bottom of small 
 China cups, called cocottes. Break a fine new-laid 
 egg over the butter, with a little salt and some 
 coarse pepper. Lay these over some red hot 
 ashes, and then use the salamander till the eggs 
 are done soft. 
 
 No. 19 -—Egg brouilles. 
 
 There are various sorts of eggs brouilles , 
 namely :—with champignons , with cardes, with 
 truffles, with cucumbers, with verjuice, with broth, 
 and with asparagus heads, which are made as fol¬ 
 lows : — 
 
 Break eight eggs into a clean stew-pan with half 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt and 
 pepper; beat the eggs till the whites and yolks are 
 well blended. Then put the stew-pan on a slow 
 fire, and keep constantly stirring with a wooden- 
 spoon ; mind that the eggs brouilles are never to 
 be grumous, or clotty. A spoonful of broth or 
 sauce makes them more delicate, and add whatever 
 you intend to put in it, from the various names 
 above. 
 
 No. 20 .—Eggs and Bacon. 
 
 This may appear a common and vulgar dish. 
 It is, however, a palatable one, and well calculated 
 for the keen appetites generated by shooting, or 
 
360 
 
 the chase. Prepare it as follows:—Break with 
 great care the number of eggs you intend to fry, 
 (more than ten or twelve will never fry well.) 
 Then break them without injuring the yolks ; fry 
 the butter till it becomes very hot, and throw the 
 eggs gently in the pan ; fry them very well, and 
 do not let them be too much done; add some salt 
 and pepper, and with the salamander slip the eggs 
 dexterously on a dish; fry some bacon separately, 
 and put it round the eggs. Serve very hot. 
 
361 
 
 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 General Remark on Vegetables. 
 
 \ 
 
 Although the various sorts of vegetables are so 
 numerous, the cook is not unfrequently left with a 
 scarcity of dishes for the second course, as most 
 of the bettef sort make their appearance at the 
 same time of the year. Winter is a season of 
 peculiar difficulty for entremets of vegetables, as 
 toe nobility of this country do not use any of the 
 dry floured vegetables; you are therefore left with 
 only cardons , spinach, salsifis, brocolis, and pota¬ 
 toes ; and in this short list of vegetables little 
 vanety is left for the table, except in the different 
 ways of dressing. 
 
 No. 1 .— Cardons a VEspagnole. 
 
 This dish, which is first introduced amongst the 
 entremets of vegetables, requires great attention, 
 and no small share of skill in the art of cookery. 
 It is not much relished in England, but in France 
 it was held in the highest estimation. It is always 
 one of those selected for the trial of a cook. 
 
 In the first place, you must select a few heads of 
 cardons all very white. Cut each leaf into slices 
 of six inches long ; with the exception, however, 
 of those that are hollow, which aj-e tough and 
 thready. Beard them of their prickles, and°blanch 
 
 R 
 
362 
 
 them, by putting the thickest leaves into boiling 
 water. "When you have given these a few boils, 
 put in the leaves of the heart; turn the middle 
 stalks into large olives, and blanch them likewise. 
 Then try a piece in cold water, to see whether the 
 slime which is on the surface will come off by rub¬ 
 bing. If si', take them off the fire immediately, 
 and throw them into cold water, as they are done 
 enough ; or you may cool the boiling water, by 
 pouring in cold till you are able to bear your hand 
 in it, to rub off all the slime. This being done, 
 wash them clean, and throw the cardons into a blanc, 
 give them a single boil, and leave them in the 
 blanc. Whenever you wish to use them, drain a 
 sufficient quantity. Pare both extremities, and 
 mark them in a stew-pan, with four* spoonsful of 
 Espagnole, and four spoonsful of consomme , a 
 little salt, and a little sugar. Let them boil over 
 a sharp fire, that they may not be done too much ; 
 be sure to skim off ail the fat. Dish them nicely. 
 Strain the sauce through a tammy before you 
 mask them. Send them up to table quite hot with 
 a cover over them, to prevent their getting dry. 
 
 The cardons mix very well with eggs, and when 
 you have any returned from table, they will warm 
 up again very well, if you are particular in taking 
 them off to put them in the larder, in this case they 
 are too much done; use them to make les ceufs 
 brouilles , cci/fs carde, which you should make only 
 when you have cardons left from the parlour. 
 This is a capital entremel , and may be selected as 
 one of the finest efforts of cookery. 
 
 No. 2.— Cardons d l'Essence with Marrow. 
 
 Proceed as above. Take a few pieces of beef 
 marrow, all of a size, which you put in warm 
 water to draw out all the blood. When thoroughly 
 
363 
 
 disgorged, blanch and stew them in water with a 
 little salt, and a few slices of lemon to keep them 
 white. When done drain them in a clean towel, 
 and put them into the essence, which is nothing 
 but some Espagnole reduced; unless you have 
 some essence, or Espagnole , as mentioned among 
 the sauces. Drain the fat, and do not forget to 
 put a little sugar ; which is requisite in all dishes 
 of cardons, as it improves them greatly. Car- 
 don# are not unfrequently bitter. 
 
 No. 3.— Cardons au Veloute. 
 
 The same preparation as in the two preceding 
 articles. Take some out of the blanc, trim and 
 stew them in a little consomme , and when they are 
 done, drain and sauce them with some veloute , or 
 bechamel. 
 
 No. 4.— Cardons a la Sauce blanche. 
 
 The same preparation as above, only sauce with 
 the sauce blanche , or French melted butter. 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 No. 1.— Spinach au Consomme. 
 
 You must take particular care when the spinach 
 is picked, that no stalks or weeds are left amongst 
 it. The least oversight may cause the spinach to 
 be good for nothing, notwiihstandingall the trouble 
 you might take in cooking it. It must be washed 
 several times in a great quantity of water. Then boil 
 some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to 
 float with ease. Put a great deal of salt, that it may 
 
 it 2 
 
364 
 
 preserve its green colour, and press it down fre¬ 
 quently with a wooden spoon, that it may be done 
 equally. When it has had a few boils, try whether it 
 can be squeezed easily between your two fingers; then 
 without loss of time, put it into a cullender to 
 drain the water. Next throw it into a great quan¬ 
 tity of cold water to keep it green. When it is 
 quite cold, make it into balls and squeeze it well. 
 Then spread it on the table with your knife, to 
 ascertain that no improper substance is left among 
 it. Chop it very fine ; put a good piece of butter 
 into a stew-pan, and lay the spinach over the 
 butter. Let it dry over a gentle fire, and next 
 dredge it with a spoonful of flour. Moisten with 
 a few spoonsful of consomme , and let it stew briskly, 
 that it may not turn yellow. Make it rich with a 
 small piece of glaze. If you intend to send it up 
 as an entree with a ham, or a tongue, &c., you 
 must mix a few spoonsful of Espagnole, and let it 
 be well seasoned. Some people like nutmeg; in 
 that case, you may grate a little into it. Spinach 
 thus prepared may be used with a Jricandeau , 
 sweetbreads of veal, and breasts of veal or of 
 mutton. 
 
 No. 2 .—Spinach with Cream. 
 
 Blanch and prepare it as above, only use cream 
 instead of broth. Boil the cream before you 
 throw it over the spinach. If it should curdle, the 
 cream only is lost; whereas, otherwise, you would 
 lose the spinach, butter, and all. Spinach with 
 cream requires a little sugar and nutmeg. It is 
 needless to repeat, that a little salt is also requisite, 
 as there can be no good seasoning without it. You 
 must always have fried toasts of bread round the 
 spinach when you send it up to table, or some 
 
made of puff-paste flourets ; but mind that they 
 must both be fresh made. 
 
 No. 3 .—Spinach French fashion. 
 
 This dish in Paris is called a VAnglaise. The 
 spinach is to be blanched as above. Squeeze it 
 well, and pound it in a mortar ; then mark it in a 
 stew-pan with a little butter. Leave it for three- 
 quarters of an hour on a very slow fire till verv dry. 
 Next throw in a quarter of a pound of very fresh 
 butter, with salt, and grated nutmeg. Work the 
 spinach well till it is thick, but take care the 
 butter does not turn to oil, and serve very hot. 
 
 No. 4 .—Croustades of Spinach. 
 
 This dish is introduced merely for the sake of 
 variety. Cut some bread into hearts, which you 
 slit all round. Fry them in butter. Arrange 
 
 those hearts in the form of a rosette. 
 
 Gut a round of bread, which slit in the same manner, 
 and place it in the middle, over the points of the 
 hearts. Fry these till they are of a fine brown, 
 then cut out the interior, take out all the crumb, 
 and fill the vacuity with spinach, either with cream 
 or consomme. Observe, that when spinach is dressed 
 to put under meat, whether fricandeau or sweet¬ 
 bread, &c. it must be more seasoned than when 
 dressed for entremets , and a little more liquid, as 
 it is like sauce. Spinach is often used in sweet 
 dishes to dye the almonds, or make the green 
 colour of the biscuit marbre. You pound in the 
 mortar some of the spinach, and squeeze the juice 
 out of it by pressing it through a towel; put the 
 liquor in a small stew-pan, and place the stew-pan 
 
366 
 
 in a bain marie to poach. When the green is settled 
 at the bottom of the stew-pan, drain it through a 
 silk sieve, and use it for almonds, or whatever re¬ 
 quires green. 
 
 ENDIVE. 
 
 No. 1. —Endive with Gravy of Veal. 
 
 Wash and clean twelve heads of endive, and 
 beware of the worms, which generally are found in 
 the heart. After having taken off all the green 
 part of the leaves, wash the endive again in two or 
 three different waters, and blanch them to take off 
 the bitter taste. Then throw them into cold water, 
 and when quite cold, squeeze them till there is no 
 water left in them, then chop them very fine. Next 
 stew them in a sufficient quantity of gravy to cover 
 them entirely, to which add a little salt, and a 
 very small lump of sugar to qualify the bitter tart 
 taste of the endive. Ascertain if they are done 
 enough, by squeezing a bit between two fingers; 
 if very tender, they are done. Then add two 
 spoonsful of Espagnole reduced, and use them 
 either for entremets under poached eggs, or for 
 entrees , such as minces of mutton, muzettes of 
 mutton, carbonades, fricandeaux , sweetbreads, fil¬ 
 lets of fowl, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 2.— Endive au Veloute. 
 
 The same preparation as above, but instead of 
 gravy use consomme , and in lieu of Espagnole , 
 take bechamel. Endive must always be stewed in 
 broth, or gravy, or consomme. The sauce must 
 not boil when you pour it over the endive, espe¬ 
 cially if* it is cream sauce. If you wish the sauce 
 
387 
 
 to be white, add some thick cream to it. Endive 
 is a very wholesome vegetable, hut you take off 
 from its quality by adding to it strong seasoning, 
 by which it becomes an epicurean sauce ; it is, how¬ 
 ever, very strengthening, and of easy digestion. 
 
 No. 3.— Endive a la Franchise. 
 
 The same preparation again as in No. 1. When 
 the endive is done in the broth as above, reduce it 
 quite dry; put in a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, a*little salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Mix all 
 together, and serve up very hot. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Cauliflowers are never good but when white and 
 hard, and are never used in French cookery when 
 they begin to run to seed. 
 
 No. 1.— Caidiflowers a la Sauce blanche. 
 
 After having torn off all the green leaves, it is 
 requisite vou should open the cauliflower to remove 
 the snails or other insects, which are liable to creep 
 towards the heart. For this purpose, leave the 
 cauliflower in cold water for an hour. Next throw 
 it into boiling water, with a little salt and butter. 
 This vegetable being very tender, is soon done. 
 If you wish to boil it beforehand, take it off the 
 fire when only half done, as its being left in boil¬ 
 ing water will soon finish it. Drain them sepa¬ 
 rately, without breaking them ; dish them in the 
 shape of a large cauliflower, and pour the sauce 
 over them. (See Sauce blanche.) 
 
 No. 2.— Catdiflower au Veloute. 
 
 The same preparation as above, with the only 
 
368 
 
 difference that you use veloute instead of sauce 
 blanche. You make the veloute by putting a small 
 bit of butter in bechamel . 
 
 No. 3.— Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese. 
 
 Prepare and dish the cauliflower as above. Next 
 mash the top with a little thick bechamel , powder 
 some rasped Parmesan cheese over them, and melt 
 a little fresh butter, which pour gently in different 
 places. Then strew them over with crumbs of 
 bread and raSped cheese again, to which you give 
 a fine colour with the salamander. Wipe & the 
 border of the dish, mix a little Parmesan cheese 
 with some veloute and a little fresh butter, work 
 the sauce, season it well, and pour it gently all 
 round the cauliflower. If you should happen to 
 have neither bechamel nor any other sauce ready, 
 a little melted butter with some glaze in it, will 
 answer the same purpose; but it is more liable to 
 turn to oil. 
 
 No. 4. Cauliflower a V Espagnole. 
 
 The same preparation again as in No. 1. When 
 the cauliflowers are done, drain them, and put 
 them to simmer a little in a stew-pan with a few 
 spoonsful of Espagnole. If you serve them in a 
 silver stew-pan, it is requisite that the cauliflower 
 should be boiled m the same, as they would break, 
 it you attempted to shift them into another vessel. 
 
 N. B. —Cauliflowers intended for entrees are to 
 be prepared as in No. 1, and they always look 
 whiter if boiled beforehand. 
 
 SALSIFIS. 
 
 This root, when black, we call salsifis ; if white. 
 
369 
 
 it goes by the appellation of scorsonary. This 
 latter is by no means so tender or palatable as the 
 former ; however, both are prepared and dressed 
 in the same manner. Scrape them gently, so as to 
 strip them only of the outside peel. Then cut 
 them into pieces of an equal size, of about four 
 inches, and throw them into water with a little 
 vinegar, or lemon-juice, to prevent their getting 
 black. When you have scraped a sufficient quan¬ 
 tity, boil them in water enough for them to swim 
 with ease ; put a little salt and a small bit of butter, 
 and juice of a lemon. They will generally be done 
 in three-quarters of an hour; yet it is better to 
 ascertain the fact by taking a piece out of the 
 water, and trying with your knife whether they are 
 done enough, which is the case when the knife 
 penetrates easily. Drain the salsifis, and send 
 them up with whatever sauce you think proper. 
 It is generally served with veloute , or sauce blanche , 
 or French melted butter. 
 
 No. 1.— Salsifis au Veloute. 
 
 The same preparation as above. Only observe 
 that such sauces as are sent up with vegetables, must 
 always be refined, and thickened with fresh butter; 
 never forget salt and a little Cayenne. 
 
 No. 2.— Salsifis d VEspagnole. 
 
 The same preparation as in No. 1. Only use 
 Espagnole instead of sauce blanche. 
 
 No. 3.— Fried Salsifis. 
 
 Make a batter as follows : take six spoonsful of 
 flour, a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of olive oil, 
 and beat the whole with beer, enough to make it 
 into batter, but do not make it too liquid. Then 
 beat the whites of two eggs, and when well beaten, 
 
370 
 
 pour them into the batter, which you keep stirring' 
 gently. Next put the vegetables, that are done 
 beforehand and well drained in a cloth, into the 
 batter; take them out again one by one, and throw 
 them into the dripping. Use a skewer, to prevent 
 their sticking together. When fried of a fine colour 
 and crisp, send them up with fried parsley in the 
 centre of the dish, and a little pounded salt 
 sprinkled over the vegetables. 
 
 No. 4.— Salsifis eii Salade or Aspic. 
 
 Take salsifis enough to fill a mould of the size 
 of the dish ; then boil them in the same way as the 
 others; drain and cut them of the length of the 
 mould ; dress them like a Chartreuse , dip them 
 into a little aspic, to stick them together all round 
 the mould, and fill the middle with a salad of small 
 bits of salsifis all of the same size; then season 
 with salt, pepper, a little oil and vinegar, and a 
 little aspic; put also some parsley chopped very 
 fine ; toss the whole, and put it in the mould into 
 ice. At dinner, dip a rubber into hot water, rub 
 the mould all round with it, and turn the salad out 
 on the dish to serve up. If you can procure a few 
 French beans very green it will make the salad 
 appear better; white haricot beans are likewise 
 very useful. 
 
 ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Artichokes are fit to eat only when young and 
 tender. Such as are intended for Vcstoufifiade , or 
 la harigoule , or plain boiled, must be full grown ; 
 the sprouts are used when to be fried h la Proven- 
 $alc, d. ritalienne, &c. You ascertain that they 
 
371 
 
 are good, by the stalks breaking without being 
 thready. 
 
 No. 1 .— Artichokes an Naturel. 
 
 According to the size of your dish,* boil a 
 certain quantity of artichokes in salt and water 
 only, after having washed them in several waters : 
 remove all the insects that swarm about the 
 leaves, and trim them of all the bad leaves; 
 ascertain whether they are done enough, either 
 with the point of a knife, or by tearing off one ot 
 the leaves. If the knife penetrates, or the leaf comes 
 off with facility, then you may be certain that the 
 artichoke is done. Shift it instantly into cold 
 water, that you may take out all the inside ; first 
 take off the top all of a lump, then empty the 
 choke, set the top on again, and send up as hot as 
 possible, with a sauce blanche, or French melted 
 butter in a sauce-boat. 
 
 No. 2 .—Artichokes d VEstoujfade. 
 
 These are prepared as in No. 1, but boil them 
 only till you are enabled to empty them of all the 
 choke. When emptied drain them well. Then 
 have some olive oil boiling; in which fry the sur¬ 
 face of the leaves. When they are of a fine brown 
 colour, wipe off all the oil, and mark the artichokes 
 in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of fat bacon, and 
 a few slices of ham ; powder each artichoke with a 
 little salt, and add to them a few carrots, onions, 
 
 * Another Method .—Take of artichokes a number not exceed¬ 
 ing five, because when the dish is too full, it does not look 
 well. Cut all the points of the leaves, and trim the bottoms 
 very neatly, rub the bottoms with the juice of a lemon to 
 prevent it turning black, and when you have boiled them, 
 empty the middle, and serve them very hot with plain melted 
 butter. 
 
372 
 
 and a clove. Next cover them with thin layers of 
 lean bacon. One single spoonful of broth will be 
 sufficient to moisten the whole. There must be but 
 a very small fire underneath, jmd a very brisk one 
 on the top. The artichokes will be done in three- 
 quarters of an hour’s time, if they are young and 
 tender ; but as not unfrequently there are old ones 
 among the number, it is better to ascertain with the 
 point of a knife whether they are really done 
 enough, Next drain all the grease, dish them, 
 and send up with an Espagnole , and the juice of a 
 lemon in the inside of each of them. 
 
 No. 3. — Artichokes a la Bariyoule 
 
 Are prepared in every respect like those of No. 
 
 Only have some sweet herbs, such as mush¬ 
 rooms, shalots, and parsley chopped very fine, which 
 you fry white in a little butter. When they are 
 done, without being made too dry, season with 
 pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. Then 
 divide those herbs, and put them inside the arti¬ 
 chokes, which you stew as above. When done, 
 drain them from the fat upon a clean towel, and 
 send up with a brown Italiennc in the inside. 
 
 No 4.— Artichokes a la Provengale. 
 
 Choose some artichokes that are very tender, 
 cut them into four equal quarters, pare them 
 nicely, and rub them over with some lemon, that 
 they may preserve their white colour. Throw 
 them into cold water, the quantity to be in pro¬ 
 portion to the size of the dish, in which you are to 
 serve the entremets. Trim a stew-pan w'ith a little 
 olive oil, salt, and pepper, or butter, then put the 
 artichokes all round, and set the whole to stew over 
 some red-hot ashes, or to bake in a moderately hot 
 oven. When done, drain the artichokes, and serve 
 
373 
 
 them up with French melted butter in them, to 
 which add a little glaze, and the juice of a lemon; 
 or otherwise some Fspagnole worked with a small 
 lump of butter, and the juice of a lemon. 
 
 No. 5. Fried Artichokes. 
 
 Let the artichokes be tender, and cut into quar¬ 
 ters as above. Hub them over with lemon to keep 
 them white. When they have been well washed 
 and drained, so that not a single drop of water 
 remains, throw them into an earthen pan, with some 
 pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. Next take 
 four spoonsful of flour, three entire eggs, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of olive oil, and keep stirring the whole 
 with a wooden spoon till the leaves are well im¬ 
 bued. Then have some dripping, which must not 
 be too hot, so that the artichokes may be done 
 through of a fine brown colour. Throw the arti¬ 
 chokes into the dripping piece after piece, and use 
 a skewer to prevent their sticking together. When 
 they are done and crisp, lay them on a towel to 
 drain, and send them up with fried crisp green 
 parsley. The paste will do better if you take care 
 to make it an hour before you begin to fry them. 
 The paste dilutes and goes into all the leaves. 
 Trim the artichokes so as to make the leaves open. 
 
 No. 6 .—Artichokes d VItaliennc. 
 
 These are also to be cut into quarters, and 
 boiled in water enough to enable them to swim 
 with ease, with a little salt and butter. When 
 done, drain them well, and lay them all round the 
 dish with the leaves outwards. Then take some 
 Italienne , with which you mix a small bit of butter, 
 and pour the sauce over the part that is to be eaten, 
 but not over the leaves. 
 
374 
 
 No. 7.— Artichoke bottoms. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms require to be turned very 
 nicely, and the most tender leaves are to be left on, 
 that the inside of the artichokes may be kept more 
 clean. Blanch them in salt and water. When 
 they are so far done that you may pull off the 
 leaves, and empty the choke without breaking the 
 bottoms, take them out of the water, and throw 
 them into cold water, that you may strip them en¬ 
 tirely of the leaves, and remove the choke. Then 
 make a blanc in the following manner. 
 
 Blanc for Vegetables and Cordons in general. 
 
 Cut about half a pound of fat bacon into large 
 dice, as also a little beef suet; take half a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, and the 
 half of a lemon cut in thin slices, and put the 
 whole into a sufficient quantity of water to cover 
 whatever you wish to put into your blanc. Let 
 this blanc stew for half an hour before you throw 
 in the artichoke-bottoms, which are also generally 
 done in the same space of time, yet the most cer¬ 
 tain method is to use the point of your knife to 
 ascertain if they are done enough. Send them up 
 with whatever sauce you may think proper. They 
 likewise serve to garnish either fricassees of fowls, 
 ragouts , white or brown, &c. they are always to 
 be boiled in this way, in whatever sauce you may 
 serve them. 
 
 No. 8.— Artichoke-bottoms en Canapes. 
 
 These, 'when cold, are served for entremets. 
 Pour on the centre of each artichoke-bottom some 
 anchovy butter, or Montpelier butter, and deco¬ 
 rate the whole with capers, pickled cucumbers, 
 beet-root, &c.; and when ready to serve up, pour 
 
375 
 
 over them a salad sauce garnished with cresses 
 between. It will be readily perceived that over a 
 Hat bottom of artichokes, it will be very easy to 
 make some decoration with Montpelier butter, 
 gherkin, anchovies, capers, hard eggs, white and 
 yellow, &c., it rests entirely to the judicious saga¬ 
 city of the artist; make salad sauce always for this 
 entremet. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 No. 1 .—French Beans a la Poulette. 
 
 French beans must be young and tender. The 
 fruiterers and green-grocers of this country sell 
 them by the hundred when they are unfit to eat; 
 but they are fit to be eaten only when they are 
 sold at market by the measure, as they are then 
 young and tender. They are to be boiled in salt 
 and water, over a large fire, that they may retain 
 their green colour. 
 
 The poulette is made with a little sauce tournee, 
 which you reduce, and next thicken with the yolks 
 of two eggs, to which you add a little parsley 
 chopped very fine. When the thickening is done 
 enough, add to it a good lump of fresh butter, 
 which you work well, a little pepper and salt, and 
 the juice of half a lemon. Drain the beans well, 
 so that no water remains; dish them lightly (as 
 the sauce should penetrate thoroughly,) and send 
 up with the sauce over them. 
 
 No. 2.— French Beans a la Lyonaise. 
 
 These are to be prepared as above Next cut 
 some onions into slices ; fry them of a fine brown 
 colour, take two spoonsful of Fspagnole , and work 
 it with a good lump of fresh butter. After hav¬ 
 ing drained the onions and beans, pour them into 
 
 / 
 
376 
 
 the sauce, keep stirring, season them well with 
 salt, and a little pepper; serve up hot over the 
 beans. 
 
 No. 3. — French Beans d la Fran$aise. 
 
 After having boiled the beans as in No. 1, drain 
 and lay them on the fire in a stew-pan, to dry all 
 the water. When entirely dry and quite hot, add 
 to them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
 little pepper and salt, and the juice of half a 
 lemon ; keep moving the stew-pan, without using 
 a spoon, as that would break the beans. If the 
 butter should not mix well, add half a spoonful of 
 sauce tournee , and send up hot. 
 
 No. 4. —French Beans a la Proven^ ale. 
 
 These are to be boiled as above. Take two 
 small pieces of garlic, which squeeze on the dresser 
 with a wooden spoon, mixed with a little fresh 
 butter. Let the beans be made quite dry, as in No. 
 3, and then put in the garlic with a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, and keep stirring the beans till 
 the whole is well combined. Mix some herbs 
 chopped fine with the above, such as parsley and 
 shalots, or green onions, to which add a little good 
 olive oil. Keep stirring, and if you do it properly 
 the oil will form a pomatum. Lastly, season it 
 well, with the addition of the juice of a lemon. 
 Serve up hot and with great expedition, that no 
 oil may drop. 
 
 WHITE BEANS. 
 
 No. 1.— White Beans a la Maitre (THotel. 
 
 White beans when new and fresh, must be put 
 into boiling water. But if they are dry, they must 
 
377 
 
 be soaked for an hour in cold water, before you 
 boil them. Then boil them in cold water, and 
 replenish with cold water also, which makes the 
 rind or coat tender. White beans must be well 
 done before you dress them a la mattre d'hotel, 
 which is done as follows: trim a stew-pan with a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little parsley 
 chopped very fine, and some pepper and salt, over 
 which lay the beans, well drained. Keep moving 
 the stew-pan without using a spoon, for fear of 
 crumbling the beans. Then squeeze the juice of 
 half a lemon, and send up quite hot. 
 
 No. 2.— White Beans « la Lyonaise. 
 
 Cut a few onions into dice, and fry them in a 
 little butter till they are of a light brown colour ; 
 then add to them two spoonsful of Espagnole. Let 
 the onions be well done ; season them with pepper 
 and salt; drain the beans that have been done as 
 above, then throw them into the sauce, and serve 
 up hot; if you have no Espagnole sauce, when 
 you have fried the onions, add to it a spoonful 
 of fine flour, and moisten with good gravy, or 
 broth, and a little glaze, then hoil it very well, 
 and put the beans in as directed. 
 
 No. 3.— The Puree of White Beans. 
 
 The beans, which must have been boiled before¬ 
 hand, are to be mixed with the following prepara¬ 
 tion : chop some onions, and fry them lightly in 
 a little butter, put a little flour to fry in the butter, 
 and when done moisten with a spoonful or two of 
 broth. Let the onions be thoroughly done. Next 
 let the beans boil in that sauce for half an hour, 
 season well, without pepper, however, and strain 
 them through a tammy. Reduce the puree over 
 a brisk fire, skim off the white scum, and before 
 
378 
 
 you serve up, refine the puree with a bit of very 
 fresh butter, and two spoonsful of thick cream. 
 This enlremet is to be garnished with fried crusts 
 of bread all round. 
 
 No. 4.— The same as above , brown. 
 
 Is prepared in the same manner as that above, 
 with this difference, that the onions are to be fried 
 brown, and moistened with some Espagnole, or gravy 
 of veal; in case you should not have any, as soon 
 as the onion is of a fine brown colour, throw in a 
 spoonful of flour, and moisten with a little gravy of 
 veal, and broth; let the flour.be well done, and set the 
 beans to boil in it for half an hour, that the taste of 
 both may be well mixed; next rub the whole 
 through a tammy, and give it a good seasoning. 
 Remember that brown sauces are always to be more 
 highly seasoned than others. This puree is made 
 either for entremets , or for sauces; when intended 
 for sauce, it should be liquid, and still more liquid 
 for soup; it makes excellent soup, only moisten 
 with the water in which you have boiled the beans, 
 and add a bunch of parsley and green onions, when 
 you mean to use the water for broth or soup. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Observation. —Asparagus is a very wholesome 
 vegetable ; do not eat them when they are fresh 
 gathered, as they produce the contrary effect, and 
 are of very bad taste ; when used fresh they are 
 mildly aperient; never put them in water to pre¬ 
 serve them, unless you immerse them perpendicu¬ 
 larly with only about half an inch plunged in w r ater. 
 This method will keep them tolerably fresh ; there 
 
is nothing, however, like having them fresh 
 gathered. 
 
 No. 1 . — Asparagus with Sauce blanche , diles en 
 
 Batonets. 
 
 Asparagus are always boiled in salt and water, 
 whether intended for entrees or entremets. The 
 water in which they are boiled is always impreg¬ 
 nated with a nauseous bitter taste; for which 
 reason asparagus is never used in soups or garnish, 
 but at the very last moment before sending up the 
 dinner. They must boil over a large lire, in order 
 to preserve their green colour. Those served en 
 batonets are cut according to the size of the dish. 
 A toast of bread is generally put under the as¬ 
 paragus, to raise them on the dish, and to receive 
 the water which may issue from them. Send up 
 separately some melted butter in a boat. 
 
 No. 2.— Asparagus Peas. 
 
 If tbe asparagus are properly dressed, they must 
 taste like green peas. Take some young asparagus, 
 which pick with great care; then cut them into 
 small equal pieces, avoiding to put in such parts as 
 are hard or tough. Wash them in several waters, 
 and throw them into boiling water, with a little 
 salt. When the asparagus are nearly done, drain 
 them first through a sieve, and next wipe them 
 quite dry with a towel. Then put them into a 
 stew-pan with a small bit of butter, a bunch of 
 parsley, and green onions, and sautez* them over 
 the fire for ten minutes. Now add a little flour, 
 and a small lump of sugar, and moisten with 
 boiling water. They must boil over a large fire. 
 
 • Sautez means, toss them in the stew-pan, to do them 
 equilly. 
 
380 
 
 When well reduced, take out the parsley and 
 green onions, and thicken with the yolks of two 
 eggs beaten with a little cream, and a little salt. 
 Remember that in this entremet sugar must 
 predominate, and that there is to be no sauce. 
 Asparagus are always dressed in this manner, when 
 to be served as entremets; but for entrees , throw 
 them into some good sauce tournee well reduced. 
 Give them a few bods over a large fire, then powder 
 a little sugar, and make a thickening of one egg. 
 The sauce must be made thick, on account of the 
 asparagus always giving out a certain quantity of 
 water that wall thin the sauce.* 
 
 CUCUMBERS.! 
 
 No. 1 .—Cucumbers farcis. 
 
 Take four or six cucumbers, according to the 
 size of your dish; cut them into the shape of a 
 screw, which is done by leaning with your thumb 
 on the blade of your knife whilst cutting the 
 cucumber, at an equal distance. When you & have 
 thus turned the outside, empty the inside with a 
 scooper. Take great care not to bruise the cucum¬ 
 bers, which when prepared, you throw successively 
 into some water. Now blanch them, and cool them 
 in cold water; drain them; then take a little 
 
 * I shall observe here, the quantity of dishes and soups that 
 asparagus serve, either for flavours or garnish; such as, 
 “ macedoine ,” “ jardiniere ,” “ pointes d'asperge“salad," 
 “ aspics," &c. 
 
 t Cucumbers are a very cool plant, but of very great use in 
 cookery ; they are useful in first and second courses, and may 
 be dressed in a great many different ways ; they are of very 
 easy digestion, and may be recommended as very healthy 
 food. J 
 
381 
 
 farce d quenelles , or some godiveau, (see Farces ), 
 with which fill the cucumbers. Marie them in a 
 stew-pan with layers of bacon, under and above, 
 and a little salt and pepper; moisten with some good 
 consomme , and let them stew, but not too long. 
 Lay them on a towel to drain, and send them up 
 with a fine Espagnole almost reduced to glaze. 
 
 No. 2.—Cucumbers a la Pouletie. 
 
 Cut some cucumbers in the shape of half-crown 
 pieces, marinade them for half an hour in a little 
 salt and vinegar; next drain them in a towel, and 
 lay them in a stew-pan with half a quarter of a pound 
 of butter. Fry them white over a brisk fire, and 
 then powder them over with a little flour. Next 
 moisten with a little broth, and let them be reduced 
 without breaking. When sufficiently reduced, add 
 a little chopped parsley, a little sugar, and a thick¬ 
 ening of three eggs or more, according to the quan¬ 
 tity of the cucumbers, together with a little salt; 
 you may also put a little pepper if you like it. It 
 would be useless to recommend the necessity of 
 seasoning, as it is known to constitute the difference 
 between good and bad cookery. Either salt or 
 sugar must predominate in some respects. Mind 
 to skim off all the butter before you reduce. 
 
 No. 3. —Cucumbers cardon fashion. 
 
 Cut cucumbers lengthways of the size of the 
 dish; empty the seed, and slit the outside, that it 
 may bear the appearance of a cardoon; blanch them 
 in boiling water; next stew them in some consomme 
 with two or three spoonsful of Espagnole. Let 
 them boil over a sharp fire, and take care the sauce 
 does not become skinny. If the cucumbers should 
 give a bitter taste, put in a little sugar. This dish 
 is a very wholesome one for weak stomachs. The 
 
382 
 
 cucumber for sauces or dishes of the first course are 
 explained in the articles relative to made dishes ; 
 those served as entremets , or as garnishings, are here 
 merely inserted. 
 
 SEA-KALE. 
 
 This plant is not known in France. It is to be 
 boiled in salt and water, and after being well 
 drained, sent up with either a sauce blanche , a 
 veloute , or an JEspagnole ; it has a great resem¬ 
 blance to asparagus, but is only used for second 
 courses. It is a common practice with the female 
 cooks, to serve under them a piece of toasted bread 
 to soak up the water, but when you drain them 
 well on a clean cloth, they do not require the 
 toast. 
 
 BROCOLI. 
 
 Brocoli are no other than green cauliflowers. 
 They are dressed in the same manner, and sent up 
 with the same sauce. (See Cauliflowers, Nos. 1, 
 2, 3, 4, pages 367, 368.) 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 No. 1.— Potatoes d la Maitre d'Hotel. 
 
 Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them with 
 the skin, in salt and water. When they are done, 
 let them cool, then turn them in the shape of big 
 corks, and cut them into slices as thick as twopenny 
 
383 
 
 pieces, for if the slices were too thin, they would 
 break in the sauce. (For the Maitre d'Hotel, see 
 Sauces.) If you should have no sauce ready, 
 make a butter sauce, mix with it a little chopped 
 parsley, pepper, salt, a little glaze, and the juice of 
 a lemon, if acid is required. Mind that the sauce 
 is neither curdled nor too thick, and that it is 
 mixed well before you put the potatoes in it. 
 
 No. 2.— Fried Potatoes. 
 
 These are to be turned when raw, and cut of 
 the same thickness as in No. 1; then fry them in 
 clarified butter. If you should have any goose 
 dripping, it would do better. When the potatoes 
 are fried of a fine brown colour, and crisp, drain all 
 the grease on a towel, and serve them quite hot on 
 a napkin, or in a deep dish, for this entremets can¬ 
 not be dished nicely in any other way. Do not forget 
 to sprinkle them over with a little pounded salt. 
 
 No. 3.— Puree of Potatoes. 
 
 Take some potatoes well boiled and well drained, 
 pound them in the mortar, moisten with good broth 
 and salt, then rub them through a sieve; when 
 done, put the puree to warm in a stew-pan, and 
 add a quarten of fresh butter to it ; puree must be 
 thinner than mash ; put fried bread round it. 
 Sometimes you may use cream instead of broth ; 
 but it is not so healthy, and is much dearer. 
 
 No. 4.— Croquettes of Potatoes. 
 
 After having boiled the potatoes in water, to 
 take off’the tartness, boil a pint of milk, in which 
 infuse half the peel of a lemon, a lump of sugar, 
 and a little salt It is hardly possible to determine 
 exactly what quantity of potatoes is requisite for a 
 pint of milk; however, the mash must be made 
 
384 
 
 rather thick. Let it cool, and then roll it in the 
 shape you like best, either corks, pears, or balls. 
 Then crumb them as other croquettes; with an 
 omelette and a little salt; and then crumbs of bread, 
 repeating both operations twice. Give them a 
 pleasing form, fry them of a fine colour, and send 
 them up, but without any fried parsley. In this 
 dish sugar must predominate, as it is one of the 
 class of sweet dishes. 
 
 You mg.y sometimes make the croquettes as 
 directed, but without crumbing them ; have some 
 whites of eggs frothed, into which dip them only, 
 and fry them ; when of a good colour, glaze them 
 with sugar, and serve very hot. 
 
 No. 5.— Casserole of Potatoes. 
 
 Instead of a rice casserole , make a casserole of 
 potatoes. The potatoes must be well done ; then 
 mix some butter and cream well with a little salt, 
 and make the whole into a thick mash. Dish it, 
 and make an opening in the centre. After havino- 
 given it a fine brown colour in the oven, wipe your 
 dish clean, and pour in the ragout, macaroni , or 
 fricassee, &c. Keep the mash very thick to pre¬ 
 vent its breaking when the ragouts are in it. 
 
 No. 6.— Souffle of Potatoes. 
 
 The souffle requires the potatoes to be well done 
 also. When they have boiled a sufficient time in 
 water, strain them through a hair sieve, and put 
 what comes through the sieve into a mixture of 
 milk, sugar, lemon-peel, a good bit of butter, and 
 a little salt, as in No. 4. Work the whole with 
 the potatoes, and add the yolks of six eggs. At 
 the moment you are going to send up the removes 
 of the soups, beat the whites of the six eggs, and 
 mix them with the rest of the preparation, add to it 
 
385 
 
 a small bit of butter. Put the whole into a souffle 
 dish, or into a pie-crust that has been made before¬ 
 hand. The souffle , however, is better in a dish, as 
 you cannot get it so w^ell done in paste. Glaze with 
 a little pounded sugar and the salamander. Send 
 up speedily, for fear the souffle should fall. 
 
 The fecule that are sold at Sporel's, in Piccadilly, 
 are sooner done. Take three or four spoonsful of 
 flour of potatoes, and mix them with good milk, a 
 little salt, lemon-peel, and sugar ; keep this prepa¬ 
 ration thick, then proceed as before directed, with 
 the white and the yolks. 
 
 No. 7.— Gateau of Potatoes.* 
 
 The same preparation as for the souffle, with 
 the only difference, that you put some crumbs of 
 bread into a mould. First, you must put some 
 clarified butter into the mould, so that it may be 
 spread all over; this being done, put two or three 
 large handsful of c rumbs of bread, and spread them 
 equally on all parts of the mould. Then dip a 
 brush into some hot butter, and sprinkle it gently 
 over the contents of the mould, which strew over a 
 second time equally with crumbs of bread, that the 
 oateau or cake, may be made of a fine colour. 
 You may occasionally add dried currants, or dried 
 cherries, sometimes flavour it v. ith noyau , maras- 
 quin , or vanilla, &c. to create a variety of names 
 and tastes. When you turn the mould, be parti¬ 
 cular not to break the cake. 
 
 No. 8.— Biscuits of Potatoes. 
 
 Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks into one 
 
 * Not unnecessarily to increase the bulk of the present 
 work, the author has given in the above recipe, directions for 
 a plain one, but you may vary them ad infinitum, by putting 
 different tastes. rose,vanilla, caffe , la nan. orange, Sfc. Sfc. 
 
 S 
 
386 
 
 pan, and the whites into another. Beat the yolks 
 -with a pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape 
 the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, dry that, 
 and pound it fine also, then throw it into the yolks, 
 and work the eggs and sugar till they are of a 
 whitish colour. Next, whip the whites well, and 
 mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound 
 of flour of potatoes through a silk sieve, over the 
 eggs and sugar. Have some paper cases ready, 
 which lay on a plafond, w'ith some paper under¬ 
 neath. Fill the cases, but not too full; glaze the 
 contents with some sugar, which must not be 
 pounded too fine, and bake the whole in an oven 
 moderately heated. 
 
 With this quantity of paste, you may make one 
 good cake, and twenty-four cases. The biscuit in 
 the mould is made with the same paste, but you 
 put some melted butter in a mould of the shape you 
 fancy ; then take some very dry, pounded, white 
 sugar, and after having spread the butter all over 
 the inside, throw the pounded sugar into it, and 
 turn the mould all over to equalize the sugar; 
 th row a few cinders on a baking dish, and put 
 the mould over them to prevent its burning in the 
 oven ; put the paste gently into it, taking care not 
 to fill the mould too full, and bake it in an oven 
 of a moderate heat. It should be of a good 
 colour. Take it out of the mould as soon as you 
 bring it from the oven. One hour will suffice to 
 bake it thoroug hly. 
 
 N.B .—The cases are to be baked on a plafond, 
 w here there has been no sugar; otherwise the paper 
 would be soiled. 
 
 The flour of potatoes may be easily made by 
 yourself, by first peeling some raw potatoes, and 
 then rasping them into a great vessel of clean cold 
 water. When the potatoes have produced a sedi- 
 
387 
 
 ment at the bottom of the pan, drain off all the 
 water gently, and fill the pan again with very clear 
 water, then stir up the sediment, and let it settle 
 again. When settled, drain off all the water, and 
 put the sediment on a clean cloth till it is quite dry. 
 Keep it in a clean pot for use. 
 
 YOUNG, OR NEW GREEN PEAS. 
 
 We have in France a proverb; “ Eat green 
 peas with the rich, and cherries with the poor.” 
 In fact, peas are only fit to be dressed in the French 
 way, when they are young, extremely fine, and 
 well selected. If they have been gathered a long 
 time, they must undoubtedly be coarse and hard, 
 and have lost their savour. If you wish to eat 
 them in a state of perfection, you should do as 
 Lord S. does, have them gathered in the morning, 
 and dressed on the same day, in the following 
 manner: 
 
 No. 1.—Peas French fashion. 
 
 For a large dish, take three quarts of green 
 peas. Throw them into an earthen pan with a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and plenty of 
 cold water. Handle the peas with the butter till 
 they stick together ; then drain them, take them 
 out of the water by handsful, and throw them into 
 a cullender, that neither water nor any kind of 
 filth may remain. Next stew them over a moderate 
 fire, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. 
 When they have recovered their green colour, 
 powder them over with a little flour; stir the peas 
 before you moisten them with boiling water, till 
 they are entirely covered with it, which you reduce 
 quickly on a large fire. The moment you perceive 
 
388 
 
 there is no moisture or liquor remaining, dip a 
 small lump of sugar into some water, that it may 
 soon melt, and put it with the peas, to which add 
 a very small quantity of salt. The author has 
 already said (see Asparagus Peas), that sugar 
 must predominate; however, green peas without 
 salt would taste very insipid, although the persons 
 who eat them are not sensible of there being any. 
 Next take about a quartern of butter, which 
 knead with a spoonful of flour. Mind that the 
 peas are boiling when you put the kneaded butter 
 in; thicken them with it, and remember, that 
 when green peas are properly dressed, there must 
 be no sauce. 
 
 The practitioner should study this article re¬ 
 peatedly, if he would cook the peas in perfection : 
 when they are fresh gathered, they should be 
 handled with the butter as above, and placed on 
 the stove to simmer or sweat; it is well to toast 
 them frequently: when they are done, if too much 
 liquid remain, reduce them quickly and add the 
 sugar, the salt, (but no water), and the flour, as 
 before. If the peas are not of the best quality, 
 moisten them with the boiling water, and proceed as 
 before directed. 
 
 No. 2 .—Stewed Green Peas with Bacon. 
 
 The same preparation as in No. 1. The bacon is 
 to be cut into pieces one inch square, and always 
 taken fiom that part of the breast, which in France 
 is called petit lard. Sometimes the pieces may be 
 cut in the shape of corks, according to fancy. 
 Blanch these for half an hour in water, to take off 
 the briny taste; then fry them of a fine colour, 
 and drain all the grease. Next stew the -bacon 
 with the peas in the same manner as in No. 1. But 
 instead of flour, put in only a little water. When 
 
389 
 
 *~he peas are nearly done and reduced, add to them 
 a spoonful of sauce tournee. If you wish them to 
 be of a brown colour, use some Espagnole , and 
 never omit a little sugar. Unless the peas are 
 seived as sauce, or an entree , there must never be 
 any sauce in the dish ; and observe, when they are 
 iOi entremets , that there must be no sauce at all. 
 
 No. 3. — Peas plain boiled. 
 
 Set some water boiling. When it boils, throw 
 in the peas with a little salt. When done enough, 
 drain them, and empty them into a stew-pan, with 
 a good bit of butter, and a little salt. Keep stirring 
 till the butter is melted, and season with a little more 
 salt, and pepper also, if approved of. Send up 
 hot, but take care the butter does not turn to oil. 
 
 No. 4.— Green Peas a la Paysanne. 
 
 Mark the peas as in No. 1. Then take a few 
 cabbage and cos lettuces, a good handful of parsley, 
 and a few green onions. Wash them clean, and 
 break them with your fingers instead of chopping 
 them. Drain the lettuce, parsley, and onions, 
 and sweat them with the peas over a very slow fire. 
 You need not put any other moisture but the butter: 
 take care to stir the stew-pan repeatedly, to pre¬ 
 vent the vegetables from burning. When they are 
 done enough, add a little pepper and salt, with¬ 
 out any thickening, as for peas dressed in a dif¬ 
 ferent way. 
 
 No. 5.—Of Peas in general. 
 
 When very busy, it is requisite that you should 
 have all the peas intended for entrees or for en¬ 
 tremets, marked in a stew-pan. Sweat them all 
 together, take a certain quantity for your first course, 
 and reduce the remainder the moment you finish 
 
390 
 
 the entremets for the second. Peas, to be dressed 
 French fashion, must be very young, and of an 
 equal size, for if of different sizes they never will 
 adhere well. Have a sieve made of ozier or of 
 cane, through which they must be sifted ; such as 
 cannot come through are used for soups, purees, 
 &c. or to be plain boiled. 
 
 WINDSOR BEANS. 
 
 No. 1.— Windsor Beans cl la Poulette. 
 
 Windsor beans are to be served at a good table, 
 only when very young, and fresh gathered. Boil 
 them in salt and water. When nearly done, drain 
 them, and stew them in a little sauce tournee , with 
 a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little savory, 
 chopped very fine, and a small lump of sugar. 
 When the beans are sufficiently reduced, throw in 
 a thickening made of the yolks of two eggs, and 
 a little thick cream. Send them up in a short 
 sauce , and properly seasoned. 
 
 No. 2.— Windsor Beans a la Poidetle.—Another 
 
 Method. 
 
 When the beans are large, you must take off' the 
 coats, and boil them in salt and water; cook them 
 as above, and send them up with a short sauce. 
 
 No. 3. — Beans and Bacon. 
 
 Windsor beans are served as an entree in the 
 summer season. Take a piece of streaky bacon, 
 and boil it for a couple of hours. When ready to 
 send up, take off'the rind, and dry the bacon with 
 a red hot shovel. Powder the bacon over with 
 
391 
 
 raspings of bread. Give it a pleasing shape, and 
 lay it over the beans that have been boiled in 
 water and salt only, without any sauce. Send up 
 separately in a boat, some chopped parsley in 
 melted butter. Beans are likewise an excellent 
 garnish to a ham: when young, serve them plain 
 round it, and cook them as directed at No. 1. 
 
 TURNIPS. 
 
 Turnips are of the greatest utility in cookery, as 
 they are used for seasoning all the soups, for a 
 great many entrees , and also for entremets , as fol¬ 
 lows :— 
 
 No. 1 .—Turnips with Sauce blanche. 
 
 Turnips only find their way as entremets , in 
 winter-time, from a want of other vegetables. Cut 
 them in the shape of pears or balls ; boil them in 
 salt and water, and butter, and when done enough 
 drain them, and send them up with a sauce blanche , 
 to which you may add a little mustard if ap¬ 
 proved of. 
 
 No. 2.— Turnips glazed, Pear fashion. 
 
 Select a few fine turnips; turn a sufficient num¬ 
 ber to cover, or to fill the dish; stew them in a 
 little broth with a little sugar, which you reduce 
 to glaze, and add to it a little glaze. When 
 equally glazed, dish them; take a spoonful of 
 Espagnole to detach the glaze that remains in the 
 stew-pan, with a small bit of butter twdee as big as 
 a walnut, which you work with the sauce. Pour 
 the sauce over the turnips without masking them, 
 after you have given it a good seasoning. 
 
392 
 
 No. 3.— The White Puree of Turnips. 
 
 If you want to make a puree very white you 
 must mince the turnips, blanch them in boiling 
 water, drain and sweat them over a very slow fire, in a 
 little butter, to prevent their getting brown. When 
 they are done enough, add two or three spoonsful 
 of bechcimelle , strain them en puree through a 
 tammy, reduce and send them up, surrounded 
 with fried toasts of bread. 
 
 No. 4. 1 he brown Puree oj Turnips. 
 
 Instead of blanching the turnips, sweat them on 
 a slow fire, in a little butter. Take care that they 
 do not burn. When they are well done, moisten 
 with three spoonsful of sauce tournee , and one 
 spoonful of gravy of veal. Give them a good 
 seasoning, rub them through a tammy, and send 
 up as above with fried toasts of bread. Never omit 
 putting m a small lump of sugar before you serve 
 up, to overcome the bitter taste of the turnips. 
 
 CARROTS. 
 
 Carrots are like turnips,, to supply the scarcity 
 of vegetables at a particular time of the year, when 
 vegetables are dear and scarce. 
 
 No. 1 . — Carrots d la cl' Orleans. 
 
 Take a few young carrots, turn them of an equal 
 size, and cut them in slices of about the eighth of 
 an inch thick, and blanch them well. Next lay 
 them on a towel to^ drain; put them into a stew- 
 pan with a lump of sugar and a little broth, and 
 let them boil over a large fire. When reduced to 
 glaze, add a good bit of fresh butter and a little 
 
393 
 
 salt. Mind that the butter must adhere to the 
 carrots when you serve up, as no sauce must be 
 seen. 
 
 J 
 
 No. 2 .—Puree of Carrets. 
 
 Mince some young carrots ; blanch them to take 
 off the tart taste, and use the same process as for 
 the puree of turnips. 
 
 No. 3 .—Souffle of Carrots. 
 
 Make a thick puree of carrots, but instead of 
 broth use water, in which put a great deal of sugar, 
 half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a good bit 
 of butter; let all this boil till very thick, then put 
 the yolks of six eggs, and mix all well together. 
 The moment you are ready to send up, beat the 
 whites of the eggs, which you throw in with the 
 rest, and put into the oven for a proper time, in 
 the vessel which you wish to use. 
 
 CELEHY.* 
 
 No. 1.— Celeri a V Espagnole. 
 
 Cut a dozen heads of celery of the length of 
 vour dish a entremets; blanch them; and mark 
 them in a stew-pan between two layers of bacon. 
 Moisten with a spoonful x>f broth, and let them 
 boil gently; when done, drain all the fat. Lastly, 
 dish the celery, and send it up with an Espagnole , 
 rather thick. If the celery could be boiled after 
 
 * This is a very heating hut ea-ily digested vegetable; it 
 will be found of great use in cookery, as it is to be seen in so 
 many preparations, soups , salads, sauces, and entremets of all 
 descriptions. 
 
 s 3 
 
394 
 
 being drained in the sauce for about half an hour, 
 it will have a better taste. 
 
 No. 2.—Celeri with Sauce hlanclie. 
 
 Cut a dozen heads of celery as above. Let them 
 stew in a little butter, salt, and water. When 
 done enough, drain them, and serve up with the 
 sauce blanche. If you would have the celery 
 very white, blanch it in boiling water to take out 
 the green ; then put it in a blanc as you do for 
 the celery sauce, as before directed, it will then be¬ 
 come as white as possible. 
 
 No. 3.—For the puree of celery (see Sauces). 
 In genera], all purees are made by the same 
 process. 
 
395 
 
 SWEET ENTREMETS 
 
 APPLES. 
 
 Observation .—The grand difficulty is to find 
 good apples, and such as will bear cooking. In 
 general they break as soon as they feel the fire ; the 
 golden pippins are excellent for entremets , but 
 they are small, and generally dear. 
 
 No. 1 .—Apples a la Portugaise. 
 
 Take a dozen of fine rennet apples ; lake care 
 that they are not injured. Peel them equally, and 
 push the core out with a vegetable cutter. Let 
 them boil in a very thin syrup, without being too 
 much done. Then make a marmalade with some 
 other apples, but let it be very white. (See Mar¬ 
 malade.) This marmalade must be made of a good 
 thickness. Lay the apples in a hair sieve to drain, 
 that no syrup may remain, and next dish the mar¬ 
 malade, which you level with your knife. Lay the 
 apples round the dish at an equal distance, and in 
 such a manner as that they may be more elevated 
 in the centre. In the cavity of each apple place a 
 preserved cherry. If you should have any apricot 
 marmalade, generally called apricot jam, you may 
 use some to decorate this cntre/net as your taste 
 may suggest, or your means allow. It would be a 
 long and unsuccessful task to undertake to teach 
 dressing and decorating by a book ; the ingenuity 
 
396 
 
 and understanding of the learner will be his best 
 guide. 
 
 No. 2,—Miro ton of Apples, 
 
 \ ou must take at least two dozen apples, and of 
 that sort particularly which stands the fire best. 
 Golden pippins are generally the best. Feel them 
 and cut them into slices about the size of a dollar. 
 Take a deep dish, otherwise your miroion would 
 sink in it, and not look well, Put a little marma¬ 
 lade on the bottom of the dish, in order to stick 
 down the apples, one above another all round the 
 dish. F ill up the middle of the dish with the 
 most defective slices of the apples. Now lay 
 another bed of apricot marmalade, to prevent the 
 apples from slipping down. Next lay a second bed 
 of apples, and some marmalade again, so as to form 
 a complete spiral line. You must close the centre 
 wi th a slice of apple, which is to be slit. Next bake 
 this in a model ately hot oven. When the apples 
 ji e |d to the pressure of the finger, it is a sign of 
 their being done enough. Lastly, sprinkle over 
 the apples a little pounded sugar, and glaze with 
 the salamander. Remember that you must give 
 the apples a fine colouring. 
 
 No. 3 .— Suedoise of Apples. 
 
 Make a marmalade of apples as compact as pos¬ 
 able. I hen take small pieces of apples cut into 
 corks, and of different colours. To dye them you 
 need only dilute with syrup a little carmine or 
 saffron ; and give them a boil. Next let the apples 
 cool in the syrup, that the colour may he spread 
 equally over them. \\ hen you dish the suedoise , 
 first spread some marmalade over the middle of the 
 oish, and next arrange the apple corks symmetri¬ 
 cally, viz. one white, one red, one yellow, and so 
 
SOT 
 
 ©ii. As the rows ascend, make the next always 
 narrower, and decorate the top with cherries of a 
 pink hue, green-gages, angelica, &c. Have some 
 ^PP^ e j e ^y? with which cover the suedoise , and put 
 it into ice to cool. When the suedoise is decorated 
 in an agreeable form, use some jelly for garnishing, 
 and place it gently over and round the suedoise. 
 The jelly must be of a sufficient substance not to 
 run down the fruit. 
 
 No. 4.— Chartreuse of Apples and Fruit. 
 
 A Chartreuse is the same thing as a suedoise , 
 only instead of raising the fruit with the hand over 
 the marmalade, you oil a mould of the same size 
 as the dish you intend to use, and arrange sym¬ 
 metrically fruit of different colours, such as an¬ 
 gelica, preserved oranges, lemons, &c.; in short, 
 whatever may offer a variety of colours. Apples 
 and pears are in more general use for the outside, 
 but then they must be dyed as directed above, 
 No. 3. When you have decorated the middle or 
 bottom, proceed to decorate the sides. Next use 
 some thick marmalade of apples to consolidate the 
 decorations. "When you have made a wall suffi¬ 
 ciently strong that you may turn the Chartreuse 
 upside down, take the whitest apple jelly you can 
 procure, some stewed pears cut into slices the size 
 of a half crown piece, and some cherries, &c. and 
 mix the whole with the jelly, so as to represent a 
 Macedoine. Do not fill the cavity too full with 
 the miroton , as you are to close it with apple mar¬ 
 malade that has more substance in it. Then turn 
 over the Chartreuse and dish it. Glaze the fruit 
 over with some thick syrup. This syrup gives ad¬ 
 ditional lustre to the colours, and a fresh gloss to 
 the fruit. 
 
398 
 
 No. 5 .—Turban of Apples. 
 
 Take some real rennets or golden pippins, cut 
 them into equal quarters, and stew them in some 
 thin syrup. Mind they do not break. Boil some 
 rice in cream, with a little lemon, sugar, and salt. 
 Let the rice be done thoroughly, and kept thick. 
 Then let it cool. When it is nearly cold, take a 
 large piece of bread, or rather an empty gallipot, 
 which you put in the centre of the dish, lay the rice 
 all round till you reach the top of the gallipot. 
 Next take the pieces of apples that have been 
 drained of all the syrup over a sieve, thrust them 
 into the rice, sloping towards the right in the first 
 row, and towards the left in the second, and so on 
 till you reach the top of the turban, which you put 
 into the oven that the apples may be made of a 
 fine colour. When you are ready to serve up, 
 remove the gallipot, wipe off all the butter, and 
 decorate the apples with some hard currant jelly, 
 greengages, cherries, &c. which may sometimes 
 be about the middle of the dish, and pour into 
 the middle a creme patissiere , that is made as fol¬ 
 lows : 
 
 Creme Patissiere. 
 
 Take a pint of cream and a pint of milk, boil and 
 keep stirring them with a spoon. When boiled, add 
 about two ounces of sugar, a little salt, and the 
 peel of a lemon. Let this peel infuse till the cream 
 tastes of the lemon ; next beat the yolks of eight 
 eggs with the cream, and do them on the fire, 
 stirring all the while with a wooden spoon. When 
 the cream is become very thick, pour it into a hair 
 sieve and rub through with the wooden spoon. 
 When entirely strained, put it into a pan to serve 
 when wanted. If you wish your creme patissiere 
 
399 
 
 to be very thick, you must put more eggs to it. 
 This creme is termed by the generality of ladies in 
 this country custard. The custard, will, however, 
 be found under the head of creams and jellies. 
 
 Another Method , called Frangipane. 
 
 Throw four spoonsful of flour into a stew-pan, 
 and beat the flour with four entire eff£s, and a 
 pint or cream, and take care the flour is well 
 mixed : add a little salt and a little sugar. Now 
 rasp the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, and 
 scrape it into this preparation. Lay the whole on 
 a slow Are, and keep continually stirring, for fear 
 the contents should stick to the stew-pan. When 
 the mixture has been on the fire for a quarter of 
 an hour, blanch a dozen of sweet almonds and the 
 same number of bitter ones, which pound very 
 fine, and moisten a little, that they may not turn 
 to oil. When reduced to a kind of pomatum, 
 mix them with the frangipane , and try whether it 
 tastes well. This you may use for tourtes, tar- 
 telettes, gateaux en dariole, &c. &c. (See Pastry .) 
 Observe that sugar must predominate in all sweet 
 entremets; but they must not be too sweet. 
 
 OF RICE FOR ENTREES AND 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Carolina rice is generally the best. It must be 
 observed, that rice which has been wetted by the 
 sea, has lost its savour, and of course is unfit to 
 be made use of for casseroles with rice. You 
 must in the first place pick the rice, and wash it by 
 rubbing it within your hands in several waters, 
 till the water has not the least stain. Then smell 
 
400 
 
 if, for if it should smell of musk, which is often 
 ihe case, it must be washed in hot water, and then 
 in cold water again, till the bad smell is entirely 
 gone. Next lay it in a sieve to drain for use when 
 wanted. 
 
 li ICE FOU ENTREES, 
 
 No. 1.— Casserole of Rice. 
 
 After having picked the rice well, wash it first 
 in lukewarm, and next in cold water, as directed 
 above. After you have well drained it, throw it into 
 a stew-pan of a proper size, that it may swell with 
 ease: moisten with some pot-top.'"? 'The broth 
 must be previously drained through a silk sieve, 
 in order that the rice may be kept very clean. 
 Mix it with a large quantity of grease, and some 
 pieces of fat ham, in order to make the rice more 
 mellow ; add a little salt. As the rice must swell 
 very much, use a sufficient quantity of broth to pro¬ 
 duce that effect. Lay the rice on a very slow fire, 
 and mind to stir it frequently that it may not stick. 
 Taste it to ascertain whether it is well seasoned, 
 and done enough; you then strain it through a 
 cullender, and level it well with a wooden spoon. 
 Take off the fat that issues from the rice, and 
 pour it into the mould which you select for the cas¬ 
 serole: when all the parts of this latter are well 
 covered with the grease, drain it by turning the 
 mould upside down, then put some rice all round 
 the mould ; put a piece of soft bread in the middle, 
 and cover it with rice, squeeze it in equally with 
 your spoon, and let it cool, When the rice is be- 
 
 * P&t-top, fat. 
 
401 
 
 come firm, dip the outside of the mould into boil¬ 
 ing water. Have a little pate brisee , which frame 
 of the size of the mould ; turn the mould over 
 the paste ; make an opening with a knife in the 
 top, and flatten the paste all round with a spoon ; 
 then put it into the oven, which can never be too 
 hot for a casserole , for if the oven is not hot 
 enough the casserole is liable to break ; baste it 
 with the grease, and when it is become of a fine 
 colour take it out of the oven ; open it gently, 
 then cut the bread into small pieces with a pen¬ 
 knife, that you may take it out without injuring 
 the casserole; next remove the rice that sticks 
 round, but do not empty it too much, for fear 
 it should not bear or resist the weight of whatever 
 you intend to throw in. You generally put into 
 these casseroles , white and brown ragouts , blan- 
 quettes, eminces , fricassees of pullets, macaroni, 
 and scollops of fish that have already been sent up 
 to table, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 2. —Cassolettes of Rice. 
 
 The rice is to be prepared as above, No. 1, but 
 must be put into smaller moulds, those called da~ 
 riole moulds. Mind that the cassolettes are to 
 be quite cold before you take them out of the 
 mould. The best method of filling up the cas- 
 solettes , consists in taking* a carrot, which you 
 cut of a proper large size, to make a hole in 
 the rice; this hole you fill up with a mince 
 of fowl, a la bechamel. This mince must be 
 thoroughly cold. When you fill up the mould 
 with the rice, close it without allowing any of the 
 mince to be mixed with the rice, in which case the 
 cassolettes would break in the dripping when you 
 fry them. To prevent this accident, the dripping 
 must be very hot. It is to be observed, that in 
 
402 
 
 making cassolettes, the rice must be made quite 
 firm ; and that they require something of a white 
 colour to be added ; as a mince au veloute , or a 
 salpicon of palates and of mushrooms a VAllemande, 
 or fillets of fish d la bechamelle. 
 
 N.B.— You may likewise give them a light brown 
 colour in the oven, the same as other casserolles 
 of rice, but frying is the best and the quickest. 
 
 No. 3.— Le Gateau de Ris, or Rice Cake. 
 
 After having prepared the rice as in No. 1, take 
 some good cream, which you boil first, to ascer¬ 
 tain that it will not curdle; the quantity must 
 be proportionate to the size of the mould you in¬ 
 tend to use. For a quarter of a pound of rice 
 take a quart of cream, which however is not al¬ 
 ways sufficient; this depends on the rice swelling 
 more or less: in this case add a little milk to it. 
 When the cream has boiled, take the peel of a 
 lemon, which infuse in the cream for a quarter 
 of an hour; take the peel out before you pour in 
 the rice, which lay on a very slow fire till it bursts, 
 or swells ; when well swollen add a little salt, and 
 some sugar, according to your own palate; the 
 sugar however must predominate, the salt being 
 only intended to remedy the insipid taste that is inse¬ 
 parable from sweet entremets. Sugar must entirely 
 predominate in articles for a dessert, but in entre¬ 
 mets it is to be used moderately. When the rice 
 is done enough, and properly seasoned, break 
 eight eggs, and mix the yolks with the rice ; next 
 beat the whites, which pour gently into the pre¬ 
 paration ; put also a good bit of butter; then 
 clarify about a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 when it is completely clarified, pour it into the 
 mould; turn the mould round, that the butter 
 may be spread equally on all sides of the mould, 
 
403 
 
 which you then turn upside down for a moment: 
 then put crumbs of bread into the mould, and 
 contrive to have them likewise spread equally all 
 over the mould ; now dip a small piece of paper 
 into the butter, sprinkle some butter all round 
 the mould, and put some more crumbs of bread. 
 This being- done to your satisfaction, pour the rice 
 into the mould, and put it into the oven, but mind 
 it must not be too hot. An hour is required for 
 your yateau to be baked enough. Turn it upside 
 down in the dish, and serve up. 
 
 N. B .—You may sometimes put with it preserved 
 cherries, raisins, or currants, &c. 
 
 No. 4.— Croquettes of Rice. 
 
 The rice is to be prepared as in No. 3. When 
 it has swelled in the cream, and is properly sea¬ 
 soned, let it cool; then roll it into croquettes in 
 the shape of a cork. Next strew over them crumbs 
 of bread (by which is meant that you dip them 
 first into an omelette , and next into crumbs of 
 bread). Roll them several times in the crumbs in 
 what form you please, and mind that they are made 
 of a fine colour. When you have fried them of a 
 good colour, you may glaze them on one side with 
 pounded sugar, by using the salamander. Send 
 up with fried parsley, of a nice colour, in the cen¬ 
 tre. It may be necessary to remark, that you 
 may multiply these entremets by the variety 
 of the different odours which may be used, as 
 vanilla, citron, lemon, orange , caffe, chocolate, Sfc., 
 and the noyeau, maraschino , oil of roses, &c. 
 
 No. 5. —Souffle of Rice. 
 
 The same preparation as in No. 3, only in that 
 case you keep the rice rather more liquid, and put 
 the whites of two more eggs; that is to say, in a 
 
404 
 
 gateau you put eight yolks, and as many whites, 
 whereas in a souffle you put only six yolks and 
 eight whites, and a little more butter, to determine 
 the souffle. 
 
 No. 6 .—Rice gratine. 
 
 Take two ounces of rice, which wash and pick, 
 ^ C \ r ien ^ et swell in hot milk, as cream, when 
 used for entremets of this sort, would turn to 
 butter. When the rice is well done, pound half 
 a dozen of sweet almonds, and the same quantity 
 of bitter ones; when you have made them into 
 a paste, rub them through a tammy, and mix 
 them with the rice, together with a little simar, 
 and a very little salt. Then put the rice into a 
 silver pan or pornnger, or silver casserole, and 
 leave it to gratiner on a slow fire for three 
 quarters of an hour or more. Instead of using 
 the lid, only cover the pan with a sheet of paper, 
 to prevent the dust and the steam. Serve hot; 
 
 if you put a cover to it, the steam will prevent its 
 gratin. 1 
 
 No. 7 .—Turban of Rice. 
 
 Piepaie the rice as in No. 3. Have some apples 
 cut into quarters, and stewed in syrup. Take 
 particular care that the quarters are kept whole. 
 Uish the rice; put a gallipot in the middle, to form 
 a vacancy, into which you are to pour by and by 
 a vanilla cream. Dress the rice round the o-ai- 
 hpot, and level it with the back of a spoon. ISext 
 place the apples round the rice, till you have 
 reached the summit of it, and put the whole into 
 the oven, but only leave it there time enough to 
 
 U P ^ le syrup which sticks round the apples. 
 
 Next decorate with sweetmeats of different colours 
 sucli as green-gages, apricots, and cherries; and 
 
405 
 
 when you are ready to send up, remove the gal- 
 hpot, and fill the vacancy with the vanilla cream. 
 
 —Many entremets are made of rice creme , 
 which, by the bye, is no more than flour of rice,’ 
 which is like any other flour, except that it swells 
 more than others. You may make souffles of it. 
 and give them whatever taste you think proper. 
 I hey must be always sweet. 
 
 No. 8 .— Croquettes of Rice with Apricot 
 Marmalade. 
 
 1 tepare the rice as in No. 3: form a croquette , 
 take the handle of a wooden spoon, make a hole in 
 the croquette , which fill with marmalade of apri¬ 
 cots. Then close it up with some of the rice, put 
 crumbs of bread as you do in all other croquettes , 
 and fry in the same manner. 
 
 No. 9.— Croquettes stuffed with Apples. 
 
 Piepare the lice as above, and repeat every other 
 opeiation, except that you must have rennets cut into 
 small corks, and well stewed in syrup. Drain 
 them well, and put them into the croquettes instead 
 of marmalade. 
 
 No. 10. — Souffle of Apples in a bordure of Rice. 
 
 Prepare your rice as in No. 3. Keep it of a 
 strong solid substance, dress it up all round a 
 dish, the same height as a raised crust, that is to 
 say, three inches high. Give a pleasing shape to 
 the rice, and let it be levelled smooth ; have some 
 marmalade of apple ready made very thick ; mix 
 with it six yolks of eggs and a small bit of butter; 
 warm it on the stove in order to do the yolks • 
 then have eight whites of eggs well whipped, as 
 for biscuits, mix them lightly with the apples, and 
 put the whole into the middle of the rice • put 
 
406 
 
 this into the oven, which must not be too hot. 
 When the souffle is raised sufficiently, send it up, 
 as it would soon lower. If you wish to make a 
 kind of pap, take a spoonful of flour, a pint of 
 milk, a little salt, lemon and sugar: let the whole 
 boil well, then mix it with the apples and the yolks 
 of four eggs: the whites are to be poured in after¬ 
 wards : next bake the souffle in the oven. This 
 method is safer than the former, and is not deficient 
 in delicacy. 
 
 No. 11 .—Charlotte of Apples mixed with Apricots. 
 
 The Charlotte has been so called after the name 
 of the original inventor, yet there is no doubt but 
 his successors have made great improvements on 
 the original. To make a Charlotte , take a dozen 
 of rennets ; but if you use a very large mould, you 
 must take more. Cut them into quarters, peel 
 them, and put them into a pan with a lump of 
 butter, a little cinnamon, the peel of half a lemon, 
 and a little pounded sugar. Stew all these ingre¬ 
 dients over a brisk fire, but without allowing them 
 to burn. When the apples are nearly done, take 
 them off the fire, mix with them half a pot of 
 marmalade of apricots, and throw the whole into 
 a mould trimmed with slices of bread dipped into 
 melted butter; cover the marmalade with bread 
 that has also been dipped into butter. Now bake 
 the Charlotte in an oven that is pretty hot; give it 
 a good colour and serve up hot. It is useless to 
 recommend that the top of the Charlotte must be 
 decorated; it must always be so. To garnish the 
 Charlotte , put some clarified butter all round a 
 plain mould, then cut the crumbs of bread in any 
 shape you think proper ; to keep all the apples con¬ 
 fined in the mould, the neatest and prettiest way, 
 is to cut the bread with a plain round cutter, and 
 
407 
 
 lay them over one another all round ; they must 
 be dipped into clarified butter before they are put 
 into the mould; then put the apples, and cover 
 them; give a good colour, drain all the butter, 
 and serve very hot and crisp. 
 
 OF NOUILLES IN GENERAL. 
 
 Nouffles are made with a paste, as follows :— 
 Put on the table about half a quarter of a pound of 
 good and very fine flour, make a little hole in the 
 middle of the flour, and put into it a little salt, 
 a small bit of butter, the yolks of three eggs, and 
 a little drop of water ; mix this paste very well, and 
 spread it on the table with the rolling pin, then cut 
 in a small bit, about a line in size, and an inch in 
 length ; pour some flour lightly over these pieces to 
 prevent their adhering together, then blanch them 
 in boiling water, after which, drain them through 
 a cullender, and use them as directed hereafter. 
 
 Nouilles are very useful, as they are served as 
 potage, entrees,"entremets; but as they have been 
 explained under their proper heads, the author 
 will proceed to speak of the entremets. 
 
 Croquettes of Nouitles. 
 
 When they are prepared and blanched, take a 
 pint of milk, boil it with a little salt, a small bit of 
 sugar, and the peel of half a lemon ; when the milk 
 boils, put the nouiltes into it, and reduce it till it 
 becomes very thick ; put them into a cold dish, and 
 when perfectly cold, shape them as you do the rice, 
 sometimes crumbing, and sometimes frying them, 
 only dipping in white of eggs; frost and glaze them 
 with sugar of a good colour. 
 
408 
 
 OF CREAMS in general. 
 
 No. 1 .—Coffee Cream. 
 
 It is necessary to observe in this first article, that 
 all creams are made in the same manner ; the taste 
 and colour only varying. Take a pint of cream 
 and a pint of milk, and boil them together. When 
 boiled throw in a small lump of sugar, and a little 
 salt ; next roast the coffee in the omelette pan, or 
 in a coffee roaster. When well and equally roasted, 
 throw it burning hot into the cream, cover the 
 stew-pan, and let it infuse till it gets quite cold. 
 If you wish to pour the cream into cups or any 
 other small vessels, you must measure the quantity 
 of cream, but for a mould it is unnecessary; put 
 the yolk of an egg to every cup ; rub the cream 
 twice through a tammy, in order that the egg may 
 be well mixed with it, and next put the cups into a 
 pan containing water enough to reach to half the 
 height of them; cover them, and put a little fire 
 over the lid of the pan, to prevent any steam drop¬ 
 ping into the cream. As soon as the cream is done, 
 let it cool, and take care to secure the cups from 
 dust, &c. When you make the cream in a large 
 mould, put more eggs. 
 
 No. 2 .—Lemon Cream. 
 
 The same preparation as above; but when the 
 cream has boiled, instead of coffee, throw in the 
 peel of a lemon, which you leave to infuse, with 
 the addition of a little salt and sugar. If intended 
 for a cream in moulds of a large size, you must use 
 a greater quantity of eggs; as for instance, sixteen 
 eggs for two pints of cream or milk. 
 
 No. 3 .—Chocolate Cream. 
 
 For an entremet , take a quarter of a pound of 
 
409 
 
 vanilla chocolate, rasp it very fine, and throw it 
 into a pan to melt with a little water. When 
 melted, mix and beat it with some cream, which 
 you have boiled, as above, and a little salt. Except 
 in creams of fruit, as pine-apple, apricots, raspber¬ 
 ries, &c. a little salt is always requisite, but very 
 little however. If you wish to make an ice cream, 
 instead of sixteen eggs for a quart of cream only 
 put eight, which put on the fire to thicken, but 
 take particular care to prevent its curdling: as 
 soon as you take it from the fire, mix with it a little 
 melted isinglass, and rub the whole through a 
 tammy. Now trv a little of the preparation in a small 
 mould over ice. If you should find that the cream has 
 not substance enough to allow of being turned upside 
 down, you must add a little more isinglass. 
 
 It is to be observed, that the isinglass must pre- 
 viouslv be melted in a little water. (See Method 
 of Melting Isinglass, page 411.) 
 
 No. 4 .—Cream a la Vanille. 
 
 Take one or two sticks of vanilla, which infuse 
 in some boiling cream : next put in the eggs as 
 you do for other creams. If you are making a 
 fromage ci la glace,* you must put a smaller quan¬ 
 tity of eo-as, as isinglass is to be put to stiffen it; 
 and keep constantly stirring the cream on the nre, 
 while the eggs are doing. Mind that the eggs 
 are not overdone. When you perceive the 
 cream is getting thick, put the melted isinglass in, 
 and rub it through a tammy, then put it into a 
 mould, and into ice. When you wish to make the 
 cream more delicate, let it get cold ; then put it 
 into a vessel over ice, before you put any isinglass 
 into it, and whip it; when quite frozen, put in 
 
 * Sometimes erroneously called fromage bavarois. 
 
 T 
 
410 
 
 cold melted isinglass: this method requires less 
 isinglass, and the jelly is much lighter. 
 
 No. 5. — Cream au The. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk, into 
 which throw a little salt and some sugar; the 
 latter must, however, predominate. When the 
 cream boils, throw two or three spoonsful of good 
 tea into it, give it a boil, put in ten yolks of very 
 fresh eggs, and proceed as usual upon the fire, till 
 the cream becomes thick; then put in the isin¬ 
 glass, &c. If your mould is small, eight eggs are 
 sufficient. 
 
 No. 6 .—Orange Flower Cream. 
 
 Instead of tea, infuse a large pinch of orange 
 flowers, and when the cream has got the flavour, 
 put in the eggs, &c. 
 
 No. 7 .—Cream a la Genet , elite au Caramel. 
 
 Melt about an ounce of sugar in a confectionary 
 pan. Let it reduce till it is brown, but mind to 
 keep continually stirring, to prevent the sugar 
 from getting a bitter taste. When quite brown, 
 dilute it with a little water, to which add a little 
 sugar to qualify the bitter taste. When melted, 
 take a quart of cream that has boiled, throw the 
 caramel into it, and put a sufficient quantity of 
 sugar to make it palatable. If you wish to have 
 the cream iced, pour in the yolks of eight eggs; 
 but if you intend to have it with eggs only, vou 
 must use twelve. In the first case, when the eggs 
 are well mixed, put the stew-pan on the fire to 
 thicken the cream ; and when it begins to thicken, 
 stir it well, and throw in the isinglass that you 
 have melted previouly; dien put it into the mould 
 and ice it. You must let it cool first, or it will 
 
411 
 
 melt the ice, and the mould will be liable to tilt 
 over, and the cream fall out. It is not customary 
 in this country to use cream without isinglass, 
 therefore it is not particularly necessary to recom¬ 
 mend the method of making them with eggs only ; 
 it is sufficient to say, that when you intend to put 
 no isinglass into the cream, you must put more 
 eggs, and it must not be done till it is put into the 
 mould ; butter the mould with clarified butter, 
 then put the cream into it, to be poached in boil¬ 
 ing water, with fire on the lid, to prevent the 
 steam from falling in. With respect to the mul¬ 
 tiplicity of names, they are derived from the pecu¬ 
 liar flavour of the cream; there is no difference in 
 the manutation. Thus rose cream, vanilla cream, 
 lemon cream, orange-flower cream,marasquin cream, 
 pine apple cream, &c. &c. derive their respective 
 appellation from the flavouring ingredient. They 
 are all made alike. 
 
 No. 8.— The Manner of Melting Isinglass. 
 
 To melt a quarter of a pound of isinglass, take 
 a little more than a pint of water, into which throw 
 the twelfth part of the white of an egg ; beat the 
 water well till it becomes white; throw the isin¬ 
 glass into that water, and lay it on the stove over 
 a-very slow fire. If you keep it covered, it will 
 melt more easily. Take care it does not burn, for 
 then it can never be made clear, and, besides, it 
 would have an unpleasant taste. For a larger 
 quantity put more water, but not more white of 
 egg. Some people put in the peel of a lemon, 
 which is wrong; however, you may squeeze the 
 juice of it into it if you want the isinglass to be 
 clear, but for cream it is useless. Always put 
 isinglass cautiously; in order to make cream or 
 ies in perfection, ahvays try a little in a small 
 
 x 2 
 
412 
 
 
 mould. If the jelly should not be firm enough, 
 add a little more isinglass. It isimposible tode- 
 teimine the exact quantity that is required for 
 ciearns or jellies, as the dishes and moulds are 
 never of the same dimension. The best method 
 therefore is to try by tasting. A medical man 
 once demanded of the author why cooks had not 
 weights and measures, the same as apothecaries? 
 To which he incontinently replied : “ because we 
 taste our recipes, whereas gentlemen seldom taste 
 those they are mixing; therefore they must have 
 exact measures.” 
 
 No. 9 .—Egg and Water Cream. 
 
 Iloil a pint of water with half a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, a little corriander, a little cinna¬ 
 mon, and the peel of a lemon. When all these 
 ingredients have been well infused, break the yolks 
 of eight eggs, which you mix and beat with that 
 pi eparation; then rub it through a tammy, and 
 put it into small cups to thicken au bain marie. 
 Put but very little fire under, as there must be 
 some on the covers, to prevent the water of the 
 steam from falling into the cream. The cream 
 must not boil too long, and only gently, for fear 
 it should curdle. This cream agrees very well 
 with weak stomachs, and is specially recommended 
 to young ladies of feeble constitutions. 
 
 No. 10 .— Eggs au Bouillon , and reversed. 
 
 Take some good consomme , of the particular 
 sort you wish to use, whether of game or of fowl; 
 do not put any sugar to it. Measure a cup full 
 of it to every yolk, and make this cream thick, in 
 the same manner as you do all others. If you wish 
 to make it with reversed eggs, use two yolks of eggs 
 
 each danole mould, and proceed as above; 
 
413 
 
 with the only difference, that you must butter the 
 moulds lightly inside with some clarified butter. 
 Boil the eggs in moulds instead of cups, and when 
 they are hard enough, turn them upside down in 
 the dish ; serve up with some consomme thickened 
 with the yolks of two eggs, and poured over as 
 sauce. This entremet is greatly admired by the 
 amateurs of game, as it gives a very peculiar fla¬ 
 vour to the different species of game used in the 
 preparation — 
 
 ceuf an comsomm£ de la preaux, 
 
 oeuf au furaet de perdreaux 
 
 oeuf au fumet de becasser, fesant, &c. 
 
 Eggs ait consomme de Gibier les petits pots, 
 as those above, but put in the smaller cream-pots. 
 
 No, 11.— Eggs d la Neige. 
 
 Take the white of six eggs, which will be enough 
 for an entremet; whip them till they get thick; 
 have some milk boiling over the fire in a large 
 stew-pan ; poach several spoonsful of the whites 
 in it, and when done enough, drain and dish them ; 
 next make a sauce to pour over them in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner: take some of the milk in which 
 you have poached your eggs, then put a little 
 sugar, a little orange flower, and a little salt: mix 
 the yolks of four eggs with the same, stir the 
 whole on the fire till the milk is made thick, put 
 it through a tammy, and mask the neiges with that 
 sauce. 
 
 No. 12.— Italian Cream. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream with half a pint of milk. 
 When it boils, throw in the peel of an orange and 
 of a lemon, to infuse with half a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar and a small pinch of salt. When 
 
 / 
 
414 
 
 the cream is impregnated with the flavour of the 
 fruit, mix and beat it with the yolks of eight 
 eggs, and put it on the fire to acquire an equal 
 thickness. As soon as it is thick enough, and the 
 eggs done, put a little melted isinglass in it, strain 
 it well through a tammy, and put some of it into 
 a small mould, to try if it is thick enough to be 
 turned over. If not, add a little more isinglass, 
 and put the preparation into a mould on ice. 
 When quite frozen, and you w ish to send it up, 
 dip a towel into hot water, and rub it all round 
 the mould, to detach the cream, and turn it up¬ 
 side down on a dish. By this means the cream is 
 brighter, and the dish not soiled. If you whip the 
 cream before you put it into the mould, it makes it 
 more delicate and more mellow ; but you do not put 
 the isinglass in the cream before the cream is 
 nearly done. In concluding the article on creams, 
 his readers may probably be surprised at the 
 scarcity introduced; when it is considered, how¬ 
 ever, that the author has intentionally shortened 
 this article by recommending variations of flavour 
 with the same preparation, it will be found that 
 the number of changes which may be made with 
 the same receipt, on which they are all grounded, 
 will equal, if not exceed that of any publication 
 expressly devoted to the exposition of the subject. 
 
 No. 13.— Pine-Apple Cream. 
 
 Infuse the rind of a pine-apple in boiling cream, 
 and proceed as usual for other fruit. You must 
 only use the rind, for the pulp of the pine-apple 
 being acid, the cream would curdle. 
 
 No. 14 .—Cabinet Pudding , or Chancellor's 
 Pudding. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream, in which put to infuse a 
 
415 
 
 little lemon peel, and a little salt. Pour the cream 
 while boiling over a pound of biscuits, a la cuil- 
 liere, and let them soak. Next add the yolks of 
 eight eggs. Then beat the whites of six eggs 
 only: some persons add a little brandy, but that 
 I disapprove of. Butter over a mould, and decorate 
 it with preserved cherries. When you send up the 
 first course, pour the above preparation into a mould, 
 and put it an bain marie. Observe, that if the 
 mould is large, you must use more eggs. Make 
 a sauce as for' the eggs d la neige , into which 
 squeeze the juice of a lemon ; or make a sauce 
 with arrow-root as follows; dilute a spoonful of 
 arrow-root Avith white wine and sugar, and lay it 
 on the fire to boil; keep it liquid enough to mask 
 the mould, and let the dried cherries that are round 
 be full in sight. 
 
 N. B .—This pudding can be made of remnants 
 Savoy biscuits, or brioche , or the crumb of a 
 penny loaf. 
 
 No. 15 .—Pudding d la Bourgoise. 
 
 Butter a mould all over in the inside, then stick 
 symmetrically some dried cherries all round the 
 inside, cut some slices of bread and butter, and 
 spread some black currants over, then put them 
 one over the other in the mould, till you have filled 
 it, then have in a stew-pan some milk which has 
 been boiled beforehand, into which infuse some 
 lemon peel, add a little sugar, and a little salt, 
 mix with this five or six eggs, and taste it to see if 
 the sugar predominates. Put this quite cold into 
 the mould, and put this mould into a stew-pan 
 au bain marie for one hour. When done, try all 
 round if the pudding will come out easily. Turn 
 it round on the dish and serve with the arrow-root 
 
 sauce over. 
 
416 
 
 No. 16.—Souffle, or Cake of Tapioca. 
 
 Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and 
 which requires a long time to be done thoroughly. 
 ^ you bod it over too brisk a fire, it wdl become 
 tough ; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mel¬ 
 low as marrow, and then it is extremely pleasant 
 to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of 
 milk with a little sugar, and very little salt. 
 Then infuse the peel of half a lemon ; but if the 
 taste of orange flowers, roses, or vanilla, &c. should 
 be moie agreeable, use them in preference, accord¬ 
 ing to the taste of your employer. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it 
 boil oyer a very slow fire. When it is done, throw 
 m a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six 
 eggs, which you beat up with it, and "let them do 
 over the stove. When you send up the first course, 
 beat the whites of the eggs, pour them gently with 
 the lest, and set the whole into a moderate oven. 
 If you wish to make a cake, sprinkle a mould 
 tvvice over with clarified butter and crumbs of 
 bread : mix with the preparation some dried cher¬ 
 ries and currants, and proceed as you would do for 
 a souffle. When done, turn the mould upside 
 down in a dish, and send up hot. 
 
 No. 17 —Tapioca graline. 
 
 1 ut half a quarter of a pound of very clean tapi¬ 
 oca, with a quart of hot milk, a small bit of sugar 
 a very little salt, and one leaf of almond laurel f let 
 this boil gently over a slow fire; when the tapioca 
 is done, put it into a silver stew-pan, and set it on 
 a pretty sharp stove fire to gratine ; let it stick 
 very much to the bottom of the stew-pan ; take out 
 the laurel leaf, and serve it up with a cover over; 
 but mind to cover the stew-pan with a skewer and 
 
417 
 
 a sheet of paper, to prevent the dust from flying 
 into it. 
 
 No. 18 .—Croquettes of Chestnuts a la Ude. 
 
 Take fifty good chestnuts, and put them into a 
 hot oven, observing that you must cut each of them 
 with the point of your knife, to prevent them from 
 bursting. When well roasted, clean them, and put 
 half of them, (taking care to choose those parts that 
 have colour) into the mortar, with three ounces of 
 butter and a spoonful of cream; rub this paste 
 through a hair sieve, then mix with it the same 
 quantity of butter as before, a pinch of salt, three 
 ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream ; 
 put the whole over the fire in a stew-pan to dry 
 like royal paste, or a choux ; when it has acquired 
 a little consistence, put to it six yolks of eggs, and 
 give to the preparation the taste you think proper, 
 as lemon, vanilla, cedrat , coffee, &c.; let this paste 
 go to the fire again after you have put the yolks 
 of the six eggs; stir it well with a wooden spoon 
 till it is rather firm; then butter a dish, and 
 spread this paste over, equally, with your knife; 
 cover this with a sheet of buttered paper, and let 
 it cool; when cold, cut it with a knife, and take 
 half of a chestnut, and make the paste into the 
 shape of a big chestnut; put some crumbs of bread 
 over the croquettes , then dip them into three eggs 
 beaten up with a little salt, and into the crumbs 
 again ; give them a good shape, fry them of a nice 
 colour, and serve them without fried parsley, as a 
 sweet dish ; sometimes dip them into eggs only, 
 without crumbs; they are more delicate. Put 
 fine sugar over them after they are fried. 
 
 T 
 
 3 
 
418 
 
 SOUFFLES FOR ENTREMETS. 
 
 It will be sufficient to observe on the subject of 
 souffles , that they are all made in the same manner, 
 and that they vary only in the taste you give them. 
 If sent up in proper time they are very good eat¬ 
 ing, if not, they are no better than other puddings. 
 
 No. 1 .—Souffle of Potatoes with Lemon. 
 
 Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven; when they 
 are well done, open them, scoop out the most floury 
 part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has 
 boiled, and in which you have infused the peel of a 
 lemon ; to this add a little sugar, a large bit of 
 butter, and a little salt; the taste of the sugar, 
 however, must predominate; yet observe, that the 
 less sugar you use the lighter the sozffles are. 
 Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only 
 into the potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour 
 gently with the above preparation into a souffle 
 dish, and put it into the oven, which must not be 
 too hot. When the souffle is done enough, powder 
 a little sugar over it, and use the salamander; 
 souffles must be served up the moment they are 
 ready, for they are liable to sink. 
 
 No. 2 .—Souffle of Orange Flozoer. 
 
 Dilute a little flour with half cream and milk ; 
 set this pap on the fire to boil; when the flour is 
 done, put a little salt, a little sugar, and a small 
 quantity of pounded orange flower, mix well, and 
 then add a good bit of butter, the yolks of six eggs, 
 and mix the whole well. Next beat ihe six whites, 
 and mix them with the rest: then bake the souffle 
 as above, and when it is baked enough, glaze it 
 and send it up. 
 
m 
 
 No. 3 .—Souffle of Ground Rice . 
 
 Wash and pick a certain quantity of rice; when 
 it has lost all improper flavour, lay it in a hair 
 sieve to dry before the fire; when quite dry, 
 pound it, and sift it. Take two spoonsful of the 
 flour, and dilute it with a little cream and milk : 
 boil them on a slow fire, and give whatever taste 
 you may think proper. Of course you must add 
 butter, sugar, salt, beaten whites, &c. as to all 
 other souffles ; then send up. 
 
 No. 4. — Souffle of Bread. 
 
 Boil some milk with a little cream, to which give 
 any taste you think proper. Throw into it the 
 soft part of two or three fresh rolls to soak, rub the 
 bread through a sieve, and proceed with the eggs, 
 butter, sugar, &c. as Nos. 1, 2, and 3. 
 
 No. 5.— Souffle of Coffee. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream with a pint of milk, to which 
 add a little sugar and a very little salt. Take a 
 clean omelette pan, or a coffee roaster, and roast in 
 it a quarter of a pound of coffee on a slow fire. 
 When it is equally roasted, throw it into the boil¬ 
 ing cream, that it may acquire a proper taste of 
 the coffee. Use this cream to make either bread 
 souffle. No. 4, or potatoe souffle , No. 1, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 6.— Souffle of Chocolate. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of chocolate, which 
 cut as small as you can, and melt it on the fire in a 
 little water. When it is entirely melted, throw it 
 into the souffle preparation, No. 4, the same as all 
 others. 
 
 Vanilla Souffle , Fine-Apple Souffle. 
 
 Saffron Souffle , Rose Souffle , 
 
420 
 
 and generally all other souffles , are prepared in the 
 same manner. The question is, to make the pre¬ 
 paration well, and above all things to beat the 
 whites of the eggs very well, for on that alone de¬ 
 pends the rising or falling of the souffle. 
 
 OMELETTE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Break six eggs, put the whites into one pan, and 
 the yolks into another ; rasp a little lemon peel or 
 orange flowers, beat the yolks well, add a little 
 sugar and salt, and next beat the whites well en 
 ueige and mix them with the yolks lightly. Then 
 put a lump of butter into an omelette pan on the 
 fire; when the butter is melted, pour the omelette 
 into the pan ; when it is firm enough on one side 
 to hold the liquid part, turn it over on the dish you 
 send up; then bake it in an oven, or use the 
 Dutch oven. When it is well raised, glaze it, and 
 send it up immediately, for it would soon lower. 
 Mind, it must be covered hermetically with a large 
 fire over it, otherwise it will not rise. To this you 
 may give whatever flavour you think proper; but 
 the plainer the better, when served very hot, and 
 very high. 
 
 PANCAKES, FRENCH FASHION. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan or basin, two ounces of fine 
 flour, three ounces of sugar, a few macaroons of 
 bitter almonds, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower 
 water, a little salt, a pint ol cream, a glass of milk, 
 and the yolks of five very, fresh eggs. Mix the 
 whole well ; then clarify two ounces of butter, and 
 
421 
 
 * 
 
 with a hoop of clean paper put some into the 
 pancake pan ; put a very little of the mixture into 
 the pan at a time ; let it be well done on one side 
 only, and turn the first one on the bottom of a sil¬ 
 ver plate ; and do the same alternately with the 
 others; arrange them in an agreeable form, and 
 when you are about finishing, glaze the last with 
 fine sugar, and salamander it; put the plate on a 
 dish, and send up very hot. If you have a very 
 hot oven ready, you may put the pancakes in it for 
 ten minutes; after which, glaze them d 1 Allemande , 
 and serve very hot. 
 
 Pancakes. 
 
 Put into a pan four spoonsful of very fine flour, 
 a pinch of salt, a spoonful of fine sugar, the peel 
 of a lemon chopped very fine, and two eggs; di¬ 
 lute the vdiole of this with a pint of cream, melt a 
 small bit of fresh butter in a stew-pan, throw it 
 into the preparation, and then have a pancake pan 
 very clean, put a very small bit of butter into it, 
 let 'it get hot, put a spoonful of the mixture into 
 the pan, turn round the pan, that the pancake may 
 be done equally, then give a sudden jerk to turn 
 the pancake on the other side; let it be well done 
 on both sides; lastly, roll and glaze them with fine 
 sugar. They must be made quickly, as there must 
 be" many to make a dish. Under this head, you 
 will find many varieties, all of which, however, re¬ 
 solve themselves to this:—In some, you put apri¬ 
 cot marmalade; in others, currant-jelly , <§'C. Sfc. 
 They are all similar. 
 
 JELLIES OF FRUIT. 
 
 It is to be observed, that all jellies made of what 
 
called led fruit, must be worked cold, and be 
 put on ice very promptly. If you were to use a 
 tinned mould, the tin would alter the red into a 
 dead blue colour, and also spoil the taste; but if 
 )ou use earthen moulds, the jellies will always look 
 and taste as they ought. 
 
 . ^ * s a ^o advisable to clarify the isinglass while 
 it is melting: there is less waste, and the jellies 
 ha'sc a brighter appearance. (See the manner of 
 melting Isinglass , page 411). 
 
 No. 1 .—Strawberry Jelly. 
 
 Put some strawberries into an earthen pan, 
 squeeze them well with a new wooden spoon ; mix 
 some pounded sugar with the fruit, and let them 
 infuse for an hour, that the sugar may draw out 
 all the juice; next pour in a little water. If the 
 strawberries are very ripe, squeeze the juice of two 
 lemons to restore the acid taste of the strawberries, 
 for such preparations as are too sweet are insipid. 
 Put all this into a bag that is nearly new, that the 
 juice may be strained clear and limpid; mix some 
 melted isinglass with the juice, but mind that the 
 whole must be very cold. Now put half a spoon¬ 
 ed of the jelly into a mould over ice, to ascertain 
 oi what substance it is. If thick enough, put the 
 whole into the large mould in ice, and cover it also 
 with ice, but no salt, for it would spoil the bright 
 colour of the jelly. 
 
 Some people clarify the sugar, and when it is 
 quite limpid and very hot, they throw their straw¬ 
 berries into it. r lhis method is good enough, but 
 then the jelly does not keep the taste of the fruit 
 so well. You may try either way. When the 
 stiawberries have been infused in the sugar, and 
 1 icy have discharged their colour, strain them 
 
423 
 
 through a bag, mix the isinglass, and lay them in 
 ice. Cover the mould with ice also. 
 
 No. 2.— Raspberry Jelly. 
 
 Raspberries are prepared in the same manner as 
 strawberries, either hot or cold. They are also 
 liable to lose their colour. It will not be amiss to 
 repeat, that the isinglass must be thrown in very 
 cold; but the best way of all is to put the fruit 
 into the mortar with some sugar, and mix them 
 together; add a little water, put the whole into a 
 jelly bag, and when the juice has been through, 
 mix the cold isinglass with it. Mind, that you 
 must avoid bruising the small kernels which are in 
 the raspberries, as they would destroy the clearness 
 of the jelly ; press the fruit only to extract the 
 juice; recollect, it is the same with all fruit, parti¬ 
 cularly the red, as follows: 
 
 No. 3.— Red Currant Jelly. 
 
 The same preparation as above, either hot or 
 cold. 
 
 No. 4.— Currant Jelly with Raspberries. 
 
 The same as above, only mix some raspberries 
 with the currants. 
 
 No. 5.— White Currant Jelly. 
 
 The same operation as for red currants. 
 
 No. 6 —Orange Jelly. 
 
 Kighteen oranges are requisite to make a good 
 jelly. Teel lightly six oranges, and throw the peel 
 into a little water, which lay on the corner of a 
 
424 
 
 stove, without allowing it to boil, for fear it should 
 taste too bitter. Cut the oranges in two : have a 
 silk sieve and a lenton squeezer, both which dip 
 into cold water, or otherwise they would absorb the 
 juice of two oranges at least. Squeeze the oranges 
 into the sieve over an earthen pan. This being 
 done, pour the infusion of the peel through the 
 sieve; next take a pound of sugar or so, in propor¬ 
 tion to the acidity of the oranges, break it in a con¬ 
 fectionary pan, pour a drop of the white of an egg 
 into about a pint of water, whip it till it gets white, 
 pour it over the sugar, and set it on the fire. When 
 the sugar becomes frothy or scummy, throw a little 
 more water in. Skim the sugar, let it reduce till 
 it begins to bubble; and then pour in the juice of 
 the oranges. The heat of the sugar will clarify 
 the jelly. Do not let it boil, but as soon as you 
 perceive a yellow scum, skim it, and pour the jelly 
 into a bag. Next mix some melted isinglass, either 
 hot or cold. This jelly must not be made too firm, 
 and especially avoid introducing any colour into it, 
 as it is almost always yellow. Why should you 
 wish to make it red ? Some people add brandy to 
 it, which is wrong, the natural flavour ought never 
 to be adulterated. If the oranges should be too ripe, 
 mix a little lemon-juice to make them acid. 
 
 \ 
 
 No. 7 .—Lemon Jelly. 
 
 Lemon jelly is made exactly in the same manner 
 as that of oranges. However, it requires a little 
 more attention, for you must smell all the lemons 
 you use, for fear they should be musty; besides, 
 the lemons being more acid, require a larger quan¬ 
 tity of sugar. In every other respect the process 
 is the same as above. 
 
425 
 
 No. 8 .—Mosaic Jelly. 
 
 Boil half a pint of cream ; when it boils, infuse 
 the peel either of an orange or of a lemon, accord¬ 
 ing as you wish to decorate the jelly with either. 
 When the cream has imbibed the flavour of the 
 fruit, put in a little sugar. Break the yolks of 
 tour eggs which you beat with the cream, lay it on 
 the fire to thicken, and then put in some isinglass 
 that has previously been melted. Strain the whole 
 through a hair sieve, and put it in a basin, well 
 covered, on some ice, in order that it may get quite 
 firm. Now take the mould which you intend to 
 use, brush it lightly with oil all over the inside, and 
 then cut the white cream jelly with a knife, in the 
 first place, and next, with small tin cutters. De¬ 
 corate the mould without putting it on ice, for the 
 damp would prevent the decoration from sticking 
 on. Decorate the bottom first, next the sides; 
 then only put the mould over ice. Now pour a 
 little orange jelly lightly, not to injure the decora¬ 
 tion, and let it get thick. When the orange jelly 
 is frozen, thrust the mould deeper into the ice; 
 then put a little more jelly to the height of the 
 lower decoration on the sides; let the preparation 
 be made firm again ; mind, the jelly is never to 
 come higher than the flowerets, till the bottom has 
 been first made firm; then gradually ascend to the 
 top. Cover and surround the mould with ice. 
 When you wish to serve up, dip a towel into some 
 hot water, and rub the mould all round. Ascer¬ 
 tain that none of the jelly sticks to the sides before 
 you meddle with the bottom of the mould ; then 
 rub the bottom with the hot towel, and turn the 
 jelly neatly into a dish. W r ere it not for all these 
 precautions, the two colours would melt and mix 
 
426 
 
 with one another. This jelly looks beautiful when 
 well made. 
 
 N. B.—It is to be observed, that this jelly can 
 only be made in winter time; for, during the sum¬ 
 mer season, it would melt, except made hard, then 
 it would not be good; however, you may work it 
 in a very cold place. 
 
 I shall not describe the great variety of jellies 
 that can be decorated in this manner; it will be 
 sufficient for learners to know, that when they are 
 to decorate pine-apple jelly, they must give the 
 same taste to the white jelly which is to be used for 
 the decoration ; the same must be done also for 
 noyau and marasquino. When you make white 
 vanilla cream, use chocolate to decorate with, by 
 making the first preparation as directed for Mosaic 
 jelly. For lemon jelly, use lemon, and so on with 
 any other sort of jelly. 
 
 No. 9.— Pine-Apple Jelly. 
 
 The pine-apple, although a very odoriferous 
 fruit,, is not very juicy. Clarify some sugar (see 
 No. 6), take the rind of a pine-apple, and turn the 
 best part equally. Fet it be of the diameter of a 
 crown-piece, but a little thicker. Boil it in the 
 sugar, squeeze into the syrup the juice of a lemon 
 or two, and put to it some isinglass ready clarified. 
 Strain the whole through a bag, drain the pine¬ 
 apples through a clean hair sieve; next put in the 
 mould a little of the pine-apple jelly; and when 
 there are about three-eighths of an inch deep at the 
 bottom of the mould, put the mould on ice to 
 freeze. When firm, lay slices of pine-apple sym¬ 
 metrically over the jelly. Mind that they are quite 
 dry, and use a little jelly to make them stick too¬ 
 ther. When the jelly is frozen to a substance, put 
 
427 
 
 in a little more to freeze again ; then fill the mould, 
 and put some ice all round. If the pine-apple 
 does not look well enough to be served in the jelly, 
 send up the jelly by itself, but keep the slices of 
 the fruit in sugar, as they w ill serve another day to 
 make pine-apple fritters. This jelly appears very 
 well with a Mosaic on the surface of the mould. 
 
 No. 10.— Cherry Jelly. 
 
 The best method of making this jelly consists in 
 clarifying the sugar. (See No. 6.) When you 
 have skimmed the sugar properly, and it boils, 
 throw the cherries into it: take them off the fire; 
 and when the decoction is cold, mix with it some 
 cold clarified isinglass, squeeze three or four lemons 
 into it, strain through a bag, and try the prepara¬ 
 tion. Next fill the earthen mould, and put it in 
 ice. The author has already observed, that tin 
 moulds would make these jellies turn of a dead 
 blue colour. 
 
 No. 11 .—Jelly and Miroton of Peaches a la Ude. 
 
 Cut a dozen of peaches into halves, peel them 
 gently, and boil them in a thin syrup, but do not 
 boil them too long. If they are very fine, you may 
 use them almost raw, but if common fruit, the syrup 
 will improve the look of them. Break the stones, 
 peel the kernels, and throw them into the hot syrup 
 with the fruit. When the peaches have infused 
 about an hour, you may use them for making jelly 
 en mirofon , which is done as follows: drain the 
 peaches in a new sieve, take the syrup, and squeeze 
 six lemons into it; put this through a jelly-bag, or 
 through a paper ; when very clear, put some clari¬ 
 fied isinglass into it, and put some into a plain 
 mould in ice. When it is firm, dress the peaches 
 over the jelly, and put the kernels between, then 
 
428 
 
 stick all this together with some jelly ; when stiff, 
 put some more jelly gently, let it freeze, and then 
 till the mould ; put a great quantity of ice round 
 the mould, and some salt, as this jelly is very liable 
 to bieak ; but it is one of the most delicate that 
 can possibly be made. W hen you can procure 
 peaches fine enough to appear in the jelly, you 
 may make it as directed, but by filtering through 
 the paper, and mixing afterwards with the isinglass, 
 you will obtain one of the best jellies possible. 
 
 No. 12.— Calf's Foot Jelly. 
 
 Although calf’s foot jelly is seldom made alone, 
 it will be better to give the simple preparation, 
 which is as follows :—Hone the calf’s feet first, put 
 them into warm water to disgorge all the blood, 
 then boil them in clear water, and skim till the 
 " ater is quite limpid. Then put the stew-pan on 
 a small stove, and let it boil gently till the calf’s 
 eet are well done. Drain the liquor through a double 
 snk sieve ; skim the fat off with the most scrupu¬ 
 lous attention, then throw a large piece of sugar 
 
 nm° ^ uor - Six feet make a large dish. 
 
 Ihrow likewise into the jelly the peel of four 
 lemons, and also the juice; add to this a stick of 
 cinnamon, a few cloves, a little allspice, and break 
 four eggs whole, but very fresh, into the mixture. 
 Smell the eggs, one after another, for if one of 
 them should not be fresh and sweet, it would spoil 
 the whole jelly. Whip the jelly, but take care the 
 i od is not greasy. Lay the jelly on the fire, and 
 keep beating it till it begins to turn white, and to 
 bubble round the stew-pan. Then remove the 
 stew-pan from the fire, cover it, and lay some fire 
 on the cover. This fire is intended to preserve the 
 strength of the jelly, which otherwise (the steam 
 dropping from the lid) would become weak, 
 
429 
 
 When the jelly has simmered for an hour on a 
 very slow fire, strain it through a bag. It must be 
 strained several times over to make it quite bright; 
 then put it into the mould, and lay it on ice till it 
 is fiozen ; send it up like all other jellies. It must 
 lie very clear and transparent. 
 
 No. 1 3. —Madeira Wins Jelly. 
 
 1 his jelly is made exactly in the same manner 
 as the preceding one. When the jelly is nearly 
 clarified, pour into the same stew-pan a bottle or 
 two of Madeira. As the operation of clarifying 
 takes away the strength of the wine, you must add 
 half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe 
 that this jelly will keep for several days, and that 
 accordingly what you have left, and what is sent 
 down from table, will be sufficient to supply you 
 with another entremet on another day. This is a 
 common jelly, which cooks and traiteurs frequently 
 serve; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you 
 must ornament it with another jelly, which you 
 make as follows: 
 
 Take four spoonsful of the wine jelly, break the 
 yolks of four eggs into a stew-pan, beat the eggs 
 with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thickei?; 
 then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice, and 
 use it for the same purpose, to decorate, as at 
 No. 8. 
 
 N.B .—It will sometimes happen that the jellies 
 made of calf s feet, will break, when you turn them 
 upside down into a dish. To prevent this accident, 
 throw in a pinch of isinglass when you are going 
 to clarify the jelly. It gives it a greater substance. 
 This jelly is a monotone, but the sagacity of the cook 
 will in some respect alter this character, for instance, 
 you give this jelly plain, sometimes with grapes in 
 it, sometimes put it in a cylinder mould. ’When 
 
430 
 
 you have turned the jelly, you have some of the 
 same in ice, take a stew-pan cover, chop some of 
 the jelly very fine, and put it all round, sometimes 
 in the middle, and try by your intelligence to 
 supply the deficiency of the art whenever you can. 
 
 No. 14 .—Macedoine de Fruit. 
 
 Wine jelly is undoubtedly the clearest, but 
 when you intend to use it for macedoine , you should 
 he particular in putting more syrup to it, as raw 
 fruits require abundance of sugar ; any fruit is 
 good for macedoine , but peaches, apricots, apples, 
 pines, &c. require to be boiled a little in clear syrup 
 before they are used in the jelly. Other fruits, as 
 strawberries, raspberries, grapes, currants, cherries, 
 &c. are put in raw. Proceed as follows: 
 
 Have in the first place a good and clear wine 
 jelly, prepared as directed at No. 13 ; then in sum¬ 
 mer-time use the fruit of the season ; put first a 
 little of the jelly in the mould, which must freeze ; 
 then arrange symmetrically a variety of fruits over 
 the jelly, one strawberry, one grain of the grape, a 
 little bit of greengage (fresh or preserved), and so 
 on; then put some jelly to make them adhere to¬ 
 gether, when that bed is frozen, lay another row 
 of fruit and jelly, till you have filled the mould to 
 the top. Let the jelly freeze till dinner-time, then 
 dip a cloth in hot water and rub the mould all over, 
 turning it in the dish you intend to serve, and send 
 it up. In winter you may likewise make a very 
 handsome macedoine Avith preserved fruit, as 
 peaches, plumbs, greengages, cherries, apricots, 
 pine-apples, &c., and even when you want all these, 
 you may make a very good looking dish with pears 
 and apples cut in different shapes, and coloured 
 with carmine, cochineal, &c. some bits of pears 
 rosee , and some yellow, some apples very white, a 
 
431 
 
 lev/ bits of greengages, angelica, or cherries in 
 brandy will give it a good appearance, and not 
 prove of indifferent flavour. 
 
 To dye the fruit, you must boil it in a very light 
 syrup; when you feel that the fruit is nearly done, 
 you dilute a little carmine or cochineal in syrup, and 
 put the fruit you mean to have of that colour into 
 it. For the yellow use a little saffron dissolved in 
 the syrup; let the fruit take the colour, then when 
 you wish to make the macedoine, drain it very well, 
 and put it symmetrically into the mould. A drop 
 of syrup will tarnish the jelly, and the beauty of a 
 macedoine is to be very clear. 
 
 FROMAGES A LA GRACE, or FROM AGES 
 BAVAROIS. 
 
 No. 1 .—Fromage d'Abricots . 
 
 It will be necessary to premise, that there is 
 but little difference in the manner of making fco¬ 
 inages^ they only vary in the taste; so that by 
 recurring to this number, it will be impossible ever 
 to commit a mistake. 
 
 If in the summer season, take, according to the 
 size of them, eight or twelve ripe apricots; take 
 away the peel and stones; throw the apricots 
 into a mortar, and pound them with a little sugar. 
 When well pounded, rub them through a tammy, 
 and press upon the fruit with a new wooden 
 spoon. Mix a little melted isinglass with this puree. 
 Beat a pint of thick cream well, and mix it with 
 the apricots also. Taste whether the cream is 
 sweetened enough. Continue to whip it over ice, 
 till you perceive that the isinglass is well melted 
 
432 
 
 and blended with the mixture ; then put the fTo¬ 
 rn age into a mould, round which you heap a large 
 quantity of ice with salt. If you do not attend 
 particularly to the stirring of it over ice, the apri¬ 
 cot will fall to the bottom of the mould, so that 
 when you turn the ice-cream upside down into the 
 dish, it will appear of two colours, and the vellow 
 part will be tough. In winter-time take a pot of 
 marmalade of apricots, and rub it into a puree 
 through a hair sieve ; mix a little pounded sugar 
 with it, and a little melted isinglass. Then as 
 above, take a pint of thick cream, or more, ac¬ 
 cording to the size of the mould, whip it well, mix 
 it gently over ice with the fruit, and when they are 
 well mixed, put them into the mould, and surround 
 it with ice. 
 
 No. 2. Fro age of Strawberries. 
 
 Take a pottle of strawberries, make a puree of 
 them, put a sufficient quantity of sugar to sweeten 
 it well, and add a little clarified isinglass. Next 
 mix the whole with a pint of whipped cream, and 
 proceed as directed above. 
 
 No. 3 .—Fromage of Raspberries. 
 
 The same process as above. Make a puree of 
 the raspberries, and whip the cream, &c- as above. 
 
 No. 4 .—Fromage of Pine-Apples. 
 
 If you have any pine-apples left, you should 
 mince them and make an infusion in a very little 
 syrup, till they begin to be tender, then take them 
 out of the sugar and pound them very fine in the 
 mortar, add the juice of one lemon, and rub them 
 through a tammy, with a little of the syrup, then 
 whip your cream as before directed. Add the 
 
433 
 
 isinglass to it, mix all together, and put it in the 
 mould as you do other cheeses. 
 
 No. 5.— Fromage de Peche, or Peach-Cheese. 
 
 Proceed as above. Infuse the peaches in a little 
 syrup ; when they become tender, drain them ; .put 
 the kernels in the mortar, which pound very fine ; 
 then put the peaches in the sieve ; rub them through 
 with the almonds of the peaches, and mix that with 
 the cream as above. 
 
 No. 6 . — Fromage toith Orange Flowers. 
 
 In this case you must make an infusion. Boil 
 half a pint of cream, into which throw a handful 
 of orange flowers, and let the cream cool When 
 it is cold, and has acquired the taste of the flowers, 
 strain it through a sieve, and mix it with another 
 pint of thick cream; keep whipping it over ice 
 till the mixture is made thick. Next take some 
 melted isinglass, and mix it well with some pounded 
 sugar ; put the whole with the cream; keep stirring 
 it over the ice till it acquires a good substance; then 
 fill the mould, and surround it with ice. 
 
 N.B.—Frontages require but very little isinglass. 
 They must be very delicate indeed, but above all, 
 extremely cold. 
 
 No. 7.— Fromage a la / anille. 
 
 Here again you must make a decoction. Boil 
 half a pint of cream, and infuse two sticks of vanilla, 
 cut into halves ; add a little salt and sugar. For 
 the rest proceed as above, No. 6. 
 
 N-B .—Vanilla that ha* served once, may serve a 
 second time, if you pound the sticks before they are 
 infused. 
 
 u 
 
434 
 
 No. 8 . — Fromage an Marasquin. 
 
 Whip a pint and a half of rich cream. When 
 it is quite thick, pour into it two or three glasses 
 of marasquino, the juice of a lemon, and a little 
 melted isinglass. Next put the whole into a mould, 
 and keep stirring it over ice till the isinglass is well 
 mixed, and begins to freeze. Then proceed as 
 above. 
 
 No. 9.— Fromage au Chocolat. 
 
 Proceed as above. Melt a quarter of a pound 
 of chocolate that you have previously rasped or 
 pounded ; add a little water to it; when melted, 
 mix with it a little isinglass and a little sugar; 
 then mix that with whipped cream, fill the mould, 
 and surround it with ice. Do not neglect to whip 
 it over ice, till you find the mixture begins to 
 freeze, then put it into the mould, and surround it 
 w ith ice. 
 
 No. 10.— Fromage an Cafe. 
 
 See Creams , for the mode of infusing coffee; 
 only use one half of the cream for the infusion, 
 which, when cold, mix with the other half. Beat 
 the whole on ice, add isinglass, and then fill the 
 mould, &c. &c. 
 
 Observation. —The fromagcs Bavarois, made of 
 fruit, deserve the preference over those made with 
 infusions. But in the winter season, for a grand 
 dinner or supper, when a great variety is required, 
 infusions may be recurred to; but in that case, use 
 preserved fruit and sweetmeats of all kinds. 
 
 No. 11.— Marbled Jellies. 
 
 This method of making a jelly will answer the 
 
435 
 
 purpose of economy ; as for instance, if you have 
 a little orange jelly left, and should have served 
 up on the preceding day a cream d la venitienne , 
 keep this latter in a very cool place ; cut it into 
 unequal pieces, the same as the orange jelly ; put 
 t jie whole into a mould, and shake them together a 
 little. When the pieces are well mixed, pour a 
 little melted orange jelly into the mould; observe 
 that it must be quite cold, or else the composition 
 will become livid; if you pay proper attention, 
 this jelly will be as good as it is pleasing to the 
 eye. 
 
 No. 12.— Marbled Cream au Cafe. 
 
 When you have prepared the cream as directed 
 above, have a little very brown caramel ready; 
 take about half the cream, and add to it a little 
 caramel, that it may be of a darker colour than 
 the other half, but it must be of the same sub¬ 
 stance with respect to isinglass ; then take a mould 
 rubbed lightly over inside with oil, which you lean 
 sideways, and put a little white cream into it; 
 when that has acquired a good substance, throw 
 in some of the brown cream, and so on alternately 
 till the mould is quite full. Then cover the 
 mould all over with ice. When you are ready to 
 serve up, rub it with a towel dipped into hot 
 water, the same as you do the Mosaiquc. (See 
 r Tellies , No. 8.) 
 
 No. 13.— Marbled Cream , White Vanilla and 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Make both creams separately, as directed above. 
 Try whether they are of the same substance, for 
 if one should be thicker than the other, they would 
 separate in the dish. Rub the mould lightly over 
 with oil, give it a sloping direction, and pour a 
 
 u 2 
 
436 
 
 little vanilla cream into it; when that is frozen, 
 turn the mould a little, and put in a little cho¬ 
 colate cream ; let that freeze, and go on so alter¬ 
 nately, till the mould is entirely full. Next cover 
 the mould with ice. Use the same process for 
 liberating the cream from the mould, as above. 
 
 The author closes here the list of creams and 
 frontages, although their number is immense. He 
 does not approve of using many odours for per¬ 
 fuming cream or jelly ; rose-water, orange-flower 
 water, jessamine-water, violet, tuberose, tea, and 
 all the flowers in the world, may be used ; but he 
 does not admit those scents which are generally 
 used for the toilette ; if you choose, however, to 
 give any other flavour, it is left to your own dis¬ 
 cretion. 
 
 HOT AND COLD PASTRY. 
 
 It will not be amiss to observe in this place, 
 that notwithstanding the immense number of ar¬ 
 ticles of pastry that may be made, you proceed 
 nearly always on the same principle, and with the 
 same paste. It rests with the intelligent practi¬ 
 tioner to multiply the arrangements and forms : 
 with regard to the taste, it will always be found 
 to be a compound of butter, flour, sugar, &c, 
 The various sweetmeats that serve for garnishing 
 pastry, most essentiallv contribute to improve its 
 appearance and savour. However, the puff-paste, 
 which is sent up to table in above a hundred dif¬ 
 ferent forms, can be made in one single way only : 
 it may, however, be more or less fine, and thicker 
 or thinner. You may make it finer by using a 
 great deal of butter, but then it has less substance. 
 The author proposes to treat of the different kinds 
 
437 
 
 of paste. The baking of pastry requires parti¬ 
 cular attention. You must be well acquainted 
 with the oven, to be enabled to send up nice 
 pastry. The best prepared paste, if not properly 
 baked, will be [rood for nothing. He recommends 
 strict attention to these remarks; be also very 
 punctual in observing the effects of the paste, and 
 always use dry flour, as damp flour will spoil every 
 thing. 
 
 No. 1 . — Pate Brisee. 
 
 It is impossible to point out the exact quantity 
 of paste requisite for a pie, as that depends en¬ 
 tirely on the size of it. Take two pounds of well 
 sifted and dried flour, spread it on a dresser, make 
 a large hole in the centre, into which put a pinch of 
 salt, three eggs, yolks and whites together, a glass of 
 water, and three-quarters of a pound of fresh 
 butter. Work the butter with the flour till it be¬ 
 gins to look like crumbs of bread, then mix the 
 whole together, till it becomes quite malleable ; if the 
 paste is too firm, add a little water. Now work it 
 well with your hands, and make it as firm as pos¬ 
 sible, for if it is not very firm, you will never be 
 able to erect the circumference or flank works of a 
 pie. The author has discovered a method, both 
 easy and expeditious, of erecting these walls (for 
 he will venture to call them so,) in such a manner 
 as that they never tumble or shrink, as is too 
 often the case under the management of many un¬ 
 skilful pastry cooks. 
 
 Take a lump of paste, proportionate to the size 
 'of the pie you are to make ; mould it in the shape 
 of a sugar-loaf, put it upright on the table, then 
 with the palm of your hand flatten the sides of it ; 
 always keep the middle high and upright ; when 
 you have equalized it all round, and it is quite 
 
438 
 
 smooth, squeeze the middle of the point at about 
 half the height of it, and give it the shape of a 
 hat; thus it is kept quite even, and this is exe¬ 
 cuted with so much celerity, that you can make a 
 dozen of them in an hour's time. Now, if you 
 wish to make a cold pie, trim the middle of the 
 paste and all round, with layers of bacon cut of an 
 equal size: lay those layers double all over except 
 on the border, that you may leave room to stick 
 the cover or upper crust on. First put in some 
 farce (see Farce for Pies'); next having boned 
 the game or poultry, season the middle well with 
 salt, pepper, and allspice, and lard the most fleshy 
 parts with slices of bacon highly seasoned ; for it 
 is to be observed, that pies taste very insipid, un¬ 
 less they are highly seasoned Now open the bird 
 by the back, spread it on the table, and put some 
 of the farce over the inside: put plenty of salt, 
 and close the bird, &c. to restore it to its former 
 shape; lay it over the farce. If you dress more 
 than one, mind that they are all equally filled with 
 the farce. Should you wish to put in truffles, 
 mince them, and pound them with the faree, and 
 strew the pie equally with whole ones that have 
 been well peeled, yet always as much towards the 
 top as ] ossible, that they may be seen at the open¬ 
 ing of the pie. As wealthy individuals never eat 
 any but the upper part of a pie, the author is in¬ 
 duced to recommend the timbaUe in preference. 
 
 When the pie is quite full, cover it with bacon, 
 the same as you do to trim the sides. Fill ail the 
 cavities with butter. Next spread with the roller 
 a lump of paste, of a size somewhat larger than 
 your pie. Use the brush all round. Mind that 
 the top is quite level. Stick the top or cover well 
 over the border, make a hole, like a chimney fun¬ 
 nel, in the middle of this top or cover, and stick a 
 
439 
 
 piece of paste round it, made in the shape of a 
 stick of sealing-wax. Now cut some blades or 
 leaves of paste, which are to be made as hereafter 
 directed. Place them close to each other round 
 the aperture, without stopping it, and use a little 
 water to make them stick. When you have done 
 with the summit, pinch the bottom part, and the 
 circumference of the upper part; decorate the 
 sides or flanks to the best of your abilities. This, 
 however, being only a matter of theory, it is im¬ 
 possible to enter into an explanation that would re¬ 
 quire volumes. 
 
 N. B. — Th efeuilles (blades, leaves) are made in 
 the following shape \ ou must fold 
 
 down the point marked ]|, but not lay the leaves 
 too flat. Glaze the whole with an egg well beaten, 
 and next bake the pie in an oven that is not very 
 hot. Four hours are required to bake it: mind to 
 watch its baking, and if it should acquire too brown 
 a colour, cover it with paper. 
 
 No. 2. — Cold Pie en Timbulle. 
 
 This sort of pie is preferable, in taste as well as 
 in appearance. The paste is made as under : 
 choose a stew-pan that will let the pie out easily 
 when baked. I mean a stew-pan that is not nar¬ 
 rower at the opening than at the bottom; butter 
 it well all round, and spread enough of paste over 
 the dresser with the rolling-pin to till the inside ot 
 it ; then take a smaller stew-pan, one that can go 
 easily into the other, flour it to prevent the 
 paste from sticking to it, and put the paste 
 over the bottom of it. Keep it turned upside 
 down, then put the large stew-pan over the paste 
 and turn them both over together. Now take out 
 the small pan, and with your lingers stick the paste 
 equally all round the large one, observing that you 
 
4 
 
 440 
 
 must leave no air between the paste and the pan. 
 Keep the paste of an equal thickness. Next trim 
 your paste with slices of fat bacon, and then put 
 in whatever you mean to make your pie of; whe¬ 
 ther poultry or game. Put the breast downwards 
 close to the bacon, then squeeze some farce into all 
 the cavities to fill them up. Next put some veal 
 all over the bird or fowl, seasoning it very highly 
 with salt, pepper, spices, Cayenne, &c. &c. Then 
 put a few slices of ham, and fill up the pie, though 
 not quite to the top, with farce ; cover the whole 
 with slices of bacon ; put here and there a small 
 bit of butter, and then turn down the upper part 
 of the paste all round the stew-pan, laying it 
 equally flat. Roll a bit of paste, the same circum¬ 
 ference as the stew-pan, about the thickness of a 
 finger, rub the paste over with a brush dipped in 
 water, and shut the pie with the round piece, 
 pressing hard with your hand every where, in 
 order to stick the two pastes together, then make 
 an air-hole in your pie with the end of a knife, 
 put^ it into a hottish oven, and when the top is 
 sufficiently coloured, cover it with paper. Four 
 hours are required to bake a large pie; a small 
 one of course w ill take less time. 
 
 No. 3 .— To make cold or hot Pies , either of Fowl, 
 or Game , either dressed or in Timballes. 
 
 rimballes possess the peculiar advantage of 
 never breaking in the oven, as the other pies often 
 do, and, above all, the advantage of leaving the 
 best part at the disposal of the eater. 
 
 T. he other way, the best part always remains at 
 the bottom of the pie, and is generally lost. As 
 you leave the timballe to cool in the stew-pan, all 
 the gravy runs downwards, and the fat remains at 
 top. When you serve it, what was at the bottom 
 
441 
 
 is then at the top, and of course the best part comes 
 out first. 
 
 For either pie or timballe , pick and clean pro¬ 
 perly your game or poultry, and singe them over 
 the flame of the stove, then bone the birds, taking 
 care to injure the skin as little as possible ; then 
 open them flat on the table, and season with plenty 
 of salt, pepper, spices, and Cayenne; cut some 
 pieces of bacon (called (anions'), about the thick¬ 
 ness of your finger, and a proper length for lard¬ 
 ing ; season them well also in the same way, and 
 lard the inside of the birds with them ; lard also 
 some veal, as veal must always be used in pies. 
 Pound some farce (See Farce , No. 15, page 121), 
 with truffles, seasoning it highly ; spread some of 
 it over the flesh of the bird, and roll the bird into 
 its original shape. Now proceed in all respects as 
 * directed above. If it is a timballe , put the bird 
 first, and then the farce and veal, &c. If a raised 
 pie, put the farce first over the bacon, then the 
 veal, and the bird or fowl, as they must be always 
 at the top. Observe, that when you lard your veal 
 and bird, the bacon must be put in symmetrically, 
 to as to appear, when cut, like a draft-board. 
 
 Consomme, for the Inside of the Cold Pie. 
 
 Take all the bones and trimmings of the bird 
 and veal, add to them a knuckle of veal, and a 
 calf’s foot, and put the whole into a stew-pan, with 
 a bit of ham ; an onion stuck with four cloves, a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with 
 thyme, bav-leaf, basil, and a bit of garlic; put 
 with this a glass of white wine and a glass of water, 
 cover the stew-pan hermetically, and set it on a 
 slow fire. When the meat is sweated through, 
 moisten to the top with boiling water, and let it 
 boil till the meat is done through. Season with 
 
442 
 
 salt and pepper, strain it through a silk sieve, and 
 then reduce it almost to a glaze, to put into the pie 
 when you take it out of the oven. Shake the pan, 
 to introduce the jelly every where. 
 
 No. 4 .—Paste for Hot liaised Pies. 
 
 lor a dish of entrees , take a pound of flour, half 
 a pound of fresh butter, three yolks of eggs, and 
 a pinch of salt. Sift the flour on the dresser, 
 through a sieve that you keep for that purpose. 
 Make a hole in the middle of the flour, put the 
 butter, eggs, and salt into it, with about half a 
 pint of clear water. Work this together in sum¬ 
 mer. In winter mix the butter first; in summer 
 you may ice the butter, and use iced-water, that 
 the paste may not be too soft. It is no easy matter 
 to give directions in writing, for dressing the pie. 
 After having made the paste with great care, make 
 a ball, spread it on the dresser with the rolling-pin, 
 then put it over a double buttered paper, and pro¬ 
 ceed to raise it all round, by pressing with your 
 fingers, till you are able to form a round and deep 
 shape, like the inside of a hat; then with two of 
 your fingers press gently all round the bottom, to 
 make a little projecting border; when you have 
 done this equally, decorate it to the best of your 
 ingenuity, line the inside with slices of fat bacon, 
 and fill the pie with remnants of paste cut small, 
 or with some chopped beef-suet; then put on a 
 cover of paste, soldering it well with the border, 
 having first rubbed it over with a brush dipped in 
 water; after you have put on the ornaments, rub 
 the paste lightly over with a brush dipped in 
 omelette (called dorure or gilding), and then bake 
 the pie ; when'done, cut out the cover, empty well 
 the inside, and use it for either pie or 1 souffle. 
 You may sometimes use for these the paste made 
 
443 
 
 with hot water, which follows; but that paste is 
 not eatable. It answers, however, just as well, for 
 gentlemen rarely eat the crust. 
 
 No. 5. - Hot Wetter Paste. 
 
 Throw into an earthen pan as much flour as you 
 want for your quantity of paste. Pour some boil¬ 
 ing water into a stew-pan with a large lump of 
 butter and some salt. Lay the whole on the corner 
 of the fire till the butter is entirely melted. A s 
 you are to dilute the paste with boiling water, use 
 a wooden spoon to beat it, but mind not to make 
 it too soft: when you have beaten it well with the 
 spoon first, remove it from the earthen pan, work 
 it well on the dresser, and place it for a moment, 
 covered in cloth, before the fire, that you may 
 work it more easily. This paste may make either 
 cold or hot pies, as directed above (See Pdte Brisee, 
 page 437.) This paste does not taste so nice as the 
 other, but you may work it with greater facility, 
 and it is not liable to so many accidents. 
 
 TRUFFLES. 
 
 Be particular in smelling the truffles. Throw 
 away those which have a musky smell; wash them 
 well with a brush in cold water only : when very 
 clean, pick out the larger to be served d la ser¬ 
 viette, or au vin de Champaign, and peel the 
 others very thin; cut them to he put into clarified 
 butter with the saute of either fowls or game ; the 
 trimmings are used to give flavour to different con¬ 
 sommes. When they are used with large entrees, 
 they are done with fowl or turkey, &c. in the po'cte, 
 or braize. 
 
444 
 
 No. 1.— Truffles, with Champaign Wine. 
 
 After having selected the best truffles, trim a 
 stew-pan with slices of bacon ; put the truffles into 
 that stew-pan, with a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, well seasoned ;* moisten with a spoonful of 
 good consomme two glasses of Champaign, some 
 salt and pepper, and if you have a good poele from 
 fowls, put in some of it, fat and liquid together ; 
 set them to boil gently for one hour; let this cool 
 in the stew-pan. When you wish to serve up, 
 warm them again, and drain them in a very clean 
 towel. Serve them up in a beautiful napkin, so 
 perfectly white that it may contrast as strongly as 
 possible with the black of the truffles, 
 
 No. 2.— Truffles a CItalienne. 
 
 Wash and trim the truffles as above ; cut them 
 in slices about the size of a penny-piece ; put them 
 into a saute- pan, with parsley and a little shalot 
 chopped fine, some salt and pepper, and a little 
 butter; put them on the fire, and stir them that 
 they may fry equally ; when they are done, which 
 will be in about ten minutes, drain off some of the 
 butter ; then put a little fresh butter, a spoonful of 
 Espagnole sauce, the juice of one lemon, a little 
 Cayenne pepper, and serve very hot. This is a 
 relish. 
 
 Timballefor Macaroni. 
 
 ihe paste for a hot timballe should be a little 
 more delicate than for a cold pie; put therefore 
 more butter into it. Take a pound of flour, a little 
 more than half a pound of butter, two yolks of 
 
 ,AfE"lT!" S 10 P ul ‘“i'. th yme, bay-leaves, doves. 
 
445 
 
 eggs, and a pinch of salt; work this with half a 
 glass of water, making the paste as smooth as pos¬ 
 sible ; proceed then as follows: butter a plain 
 mould all over well, decorate the bottom a little and 
 the sides, (by using some of the same paste, and 
 adding some pounded sugar, the paste will take a 
 browner colour, and will add to the appearance of 
 the timbcdles ,) spread the paste over a dresser, cut 
 a piece of the size of the bottom of the mould 
 (using the mould to measure with), and cover the 
 bottom of the mould and all the decorations, with¬ 
 out disturbing them ; water the ornamented paste, 
 as above; then stick the other paste lightly over, 
 and cut a bit of paste to put all round over the 
 decorated parts; roll a little paste also to stick the 
 whole together round the bottom, then fill the 
 mould with beef suet chopped fine, and make a 
 cover to it of the same length; put this into the 
 oven for an hour, and when done empty it for use. 
 It may be used for macaroni, fricassee, Uanquettex 
 of every kind, &c. &c. 
 
 Paste for Tourtes and Tarts. 
 
 1 ake a pound and a half of flour, a pound and a 
 quarter of fresh butter, a large pinch of salt, four 
 yolks of eggs, and half a glass of water. Mix this 
 paste as lightly as possible, without handling it too 
 much ; spread it over the dresser with a rolling- 
 pin, and then fold it in three, as you do puff-paste. 
 Roll it out, and fold it up again. Do this four 
 times running; this is what is called four-turned. 
 Use this paste either for tourte of entrees , or pies 
 of meat or fruit, or when it may be wanted. 
 
 Puff-Paste. 
 
 Take the same quantity of butter as of Hour, so 
 that if you use two potinds of the one you must 
 
44G 
 
 also use two pounds of the other; and so on 
 Weigh two pounds of very drv hour, and sift it; 
 then lay it on the table, and make a very large hole 
 in the middle; throw in a little pinch of salt, a few 
 small pieces of butter, and three yolks of eggs : use 
 a little cold water to melt the salt; take water 
 enough to make the paste of the same consistence 
 as the butter. In winter time you must make the 
 paste very firm, because then the butter is so. In 
 summer time you must make the paste very soft, 
 on account of the butter being so. The reason 
 why you are obliged to do so is, that if the paste 
 were not made of the same substance as the butter, 
 this latter, when you turn the paste, would break 
 through. When you have worked lightly the 
 Hour, mould it into a large ball, which you flatten 
 as quickly as possible; turn it in a spiral direction, 
 and then flatten the middle. Lay butter on the 
 table with a little water, handle it a little to ex¬ 
 tract the white liquid, and squeeze it in a clean 
 towel, that no moisture may remain. Lay the ball 
 of butter over the paste, flatten the butter with a 
 cloth, then fold the paste over the butter all round, 
 but in a square form, so as to wrap it well all over. 
 Try whether the paste is firm enough to prevent 
 the butter from breaking through it. Now powder 
 a little flour over the table and the paste. Roll 
 the paste as smooth as possible with the rolling- 
 pin, as long as you can; fold it in three, and roll 
 it over once again, taking care always to powder it 
 over with a very little flour, to prevent its sticking 
 to the table or to the rolling-pin. After having 
 spread it well fold it again in three. Make two 
 marks on the top with the rolling-pin, to remember 
 that it has been rolled twice. Then put it into a 
 plafond trimmed with a little flour, and place it on 
 the ground to keep it cool, and leave it there for a 
 
447 
 
 little while. A moment after put the paste on the 
 dresser, and proceed twice more as before; then let 
 it rest again, and give it two turnings more, which 
 will make six in all. Now give it a long shape, 
 and fob I it in two. You may then use it to make 
 a vol au vent. When at the latter end, you fold 
 the paste double only, and that is what is called 
 half a turning; of course you are aware that the 
 paste must have had six turnings and a half before 
 you can make a vol au vent , and that you must 
 keep the paste thicker than for other small articles 
 of pastry. Cut the vol au vent of the size of the 
 dish in which it is to be sent up, and immediatelv 
 after put it into a plafond: brush it over with 
 yolks of eggs, open it all round with the point of a 
 knife, and put it into a very hot oven. Mind that 
 puff-paste always requires the oven to be very hot. 
 If you are not careful to keep the oven shut, the 
 vol au vent will not rise properly. When it is 
 well baked, anti of a fine colour, and you are cer¬ 
 tain that it is done through, take it out of the oven, 
 remove the middle, which served as a cover, empty 
 and throw away the paste of the middle which is 
 not baked, and lay the vol au vent cleanly on some 
 paper to extract the butter. When you are ready 
 to serve up, dish the vol au vent , and fill it with 
 whatever you think proper. 
 
 With regard to small articles of pastry, spread 
 more puff-paste, and cut it with cutters into dif¬ 
 ferent shapes; if intended for entrees , brush the 
 paste over with the yolk of eggs, but do not glaze 
 it with sugar. By glazing, is here meant, the 
 sifting of fine pounded sugar over the pastry when 
 baked and emptied, and using over it a red-hot 
 salamander, or else putting it into a very hot oven 
 for the sugar to melt and glaze. The best method 
 of employing the paste will be found at the con- 
 
448 
 
 elusion of the department devoted to puff'paste, 
 but the immense variety of forms which you may 
 give to this paste, will never alter its flavour, such 
 varieties being only intended for the gratification 
 of the eye; for this reason it is the author’s inten¬ 
 tion merely to direct the reader’s attention in this 
 place to the dishes in most common use. 
 
 No. 1.— Tourie a la Frenchipan. 
 
 Spread on the pastry-table a bit of puff-paste 
 trimming, about the size of the dish vou intend to 
 use, round, square, or oval, as it may happen ; 
 then cut a band of puff-paste long enough to turn 
 all round the paste, and about an inch or two 
 wide ; moisten with the paste-brush all round the 
 paste, and stick the puff all round the tourte , in 
 the middle of which put the frenchipan , and bake 
 it of a very good colour. When the paste is done, 
 have some very fine pounded sugar in a silk sieve; 
 sift some over the tourte , and pass the red salaman¬ 
 der over it, to glaze it of a good colour. 
 
 No. 2.— Tourie des Confitures ( Peach , Plum , 
 Sipple, stpricot , or otherwise). 
 
 To make the above tourie , if it is with sweet¬ 
 meat only, proceed as at No. 1; but if it is of 
 peaches, apricots, or apples, you should boil the 
 fruit first in a little syrup, then let them cool in the 
 syrup, and when your paste is ready, drain the 
 fruit through a sieve, ami put it in the middle of 
 the tourte; bake it as directed at No. 1, and re¬ 
 duce the syrup to pour on the tourte when you send 
 it to the table. The tourte is a capital entremet, 
 when well done. 
 
 No. 3 .—Flan des Pommes. 
 
 If you would make a very good and eatable one, 
 
m 
 
 have first of all a mould, either in tin or copper tin, 
 which should be of the usual form of the dishes 
 served for the entremets ; make a paste as follows • 
 put a pound of fine flour, sifted, on the paste table, 
 make a hole in the middle, and break therein two 
 whole eggs; add a small bit of butter (say two 
 ounces), a little sugar, a very little salt, and a drop 
 of water; mix these ingredients very quickly, and 
 spread them on the table about the size of the 
 mould. Butter the mould very well, and put in 
 the paste, and fill the inside of the paste with some 
 apple marmalade, well reduced, but not quite full. 
 Put this in an oven of moderate heat; when the 
 paste is sufficiently done to be taken out of the 
 mould, put the flan again, in a baking dish, into 
 the oven, to do the paste thoroughly. It would be 
 better still if you were to bake the paste before 
 you put the apple marmalade into it; when you 
 have garnished first with the apples, you cover the 
 whole with some apricot marmalade, and put them 
 again into the oven to finish. Sometimes you should 
 glaze with sugar and the salamander. 
 
 No. 4 .—Flan de Peche. 
 
 Make the paste as above directed ; and after 
 having boiled the peaches in a little syrup, put 
 them in the Jlan ; when the paste is nearly done, 
 reduce the syrup to pour over the fruit, but take 
 care that the paste is well done. These Jtans are 
 delightful when they are done to perfection. The 
 crust is particularly delicious to eat with the fruit, 
 when it is well done, before the fruit is added. 
 
450 
 
 PASTRY FOR ENTREES. 
 
 No. 1.— Vnl au Vent. 
 
 Vol au vent is to be made the same as puff-paste, 
 only you must wive in this instance six turns and a 
 half; cut the vol au, vent according to the shape 
 of your dish, whether round, square, or oval; but 
 it must be cut: dove as quick as possible; then 
 mark the opening with the point of your knife, 
 and bake it in a hot oven; when done, open the 
 cover, take out all the crumb, and put it on a clean 
 sheet of paper to drain the butter till dinner-time. 
 
 No. %.— Vol au Vent for Sidtane. 
 
 The same proceeding as above, only glaze this 
 with sugar, as it is to serve for a sweet dish. The 
 sidtane is some sugar spined in a mould, to put 
 over the aperture of the vol au vent , where vou 
 have put either apples or cream, or plums, or apri¬ 
 cots, &c. &c. 
 
 No. 3.— Petits Pates of all sorts. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste as directed above, about 
 three-eighths of an inch thick; cut out twenty 
 patties with a fluted cutter; rub a baking sheet 
 over with a brush dipped in water, and put each of 
 the patties on it at a distance from each other; 
 dore them well, open a hole on the top of them 
 with a small knife, then bake them quickly in the 
 oven; when done, take them out; take off with 
 dexterity the small bit of paste which you must 
 keep for the cover; empty the crumb, put them on 
 a clean sheet of paper, with the small cover on the 
 side of them, and cover them also with paper till 
 dinner-time. 
 
451 
 
 For all other kinds of patties, it is the same pro¬ 
 cess and the same paste; the variety consisting 
 only in the size, and the flavour of the inside. 
 
 No. 4.— Small Tlmballes for all sorts of Entrees, 
 
 or for Darioles d la Cream of every flavour. 
 
 Butter eighteen dariole moulds well; spread 
 some trimmings of puff-paste on the dresser; cut 
 with a cutter a round of paste, lai’ge enough to 
 fill the mould; have a bit of paste of the same 
 form as the inside of the mould, but not so large: 
 put the round piece over the latter, let it fall all 
 round, and then introduce this into the mould ; 
 press equally every where with your finger, to keep the 
 paste of the same thickness; cut off all the paste 
 that is above the rim, fill the mould with trim¬ 
 mings of paste, and put on a false cover, to pre¬ 
 vent the border of the paste from taking a bad 
 colour. A dozen is always sufficient, except when 
 the dishes are very large; bake them of a good 
 colour : when done, empty all the inside, and gar¬ 
 nish with whatever you think proper. For patties 
 an Jus , fill the inside with Godiveau, and bake 
 them with false covers : when done, take off the 
 cover, and open them with a knife, to let in a 
 spoonful of Espagnole sauce; then cover them 
 with small covers made of puff-paste, and serve up 
 very hot. 
 
 No. 5.—Dariole d la Cream. 
 
 Trim the mould as above, and put the following 
 mixture into it: take a large spoonful of very dry 
 flour ; mix it well with an egg, five yolks, three 
 spoonsful of fine sugar, a small pinch of salt, 
 eight mouldsful of cream, two or three macaroons 
 ground fine, and some lemon-peel or orange- 
 flower ; put a small bit of butter into each mould, 
 
452 
 
 and fill them with the above preparation ; bake 
 them on a baking-dish in a pretty hot oven. When 
 done, sprinkle a little sugar over them, take them 
 out of the mould, and serve up very hot. Twelve 
 or fifteen for a dish. 
 
 No. 6 . —Ramequms d la Sefton. 
 
 After you have made the pastry for the first 
 and second course, take the remains of the puff- 
 paste, handle it lightly, spread it out on the 
 dresser, and sprinkle over it some rasped Parmesan 
 cheese; then fold the paste in three, spread it 
 again, and sprinkle more cheese over it: give what 
 we call two turns and a half, and sprinkle it each 
 tune with the cheese : cut about eighteen rame¬ 
 qums with a plain round cutter, and put them into 
 the oven when you send up the second course; 
 dore them the same as the petits pates, and serve 
 very hot on a napkin. 
 
 No. 7.— Common Ramequms. 
 
 1 ut into a small stew-pan a large glass of water, 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a little 
 salt; let this boil; when the butter is melted, 
 put to it two or three spoonsful of fine dry sifted 
 flour ; stir with a wooden spoon till the paste does 
 not stick to the stew-pan, then take it off the fire: 
 break some eggs one after the other, and smell 
 them, to see if they are sweet; mix them with the 
 paste, and continue adding till you see the paste 
 has acquired a good consistence; then put in a 
 spoonful of rasped Parmesan cheese, and a quarter 
 of a pound of Swiss cheese cut into small dice; mix 
 the whole gently to avoid breaking the cheese, and 
 dress the ramequins as you do the petits choux; 
 dore as usual, and bake them in a moderate oven, 
 but do not open the oven tdl they are nearly done, 
 
453 
 
 for that will make them fall, and they never rise 
 after. 
 
 No. 8.— Cheesecakes. 
 
 Put some curd from the dairy into the mortar, 
 with a bit of very fresh butter, a little salt, a whole 
 egg, and two yolks ; rasp the peel of a lemon over 
 some sugar, and put this also into the mortar ; 
 add four macaroons, and a bit of sugar : pound 
 the whole together, and when very tine, take it 
 out of the mortar; butter any quantity of tartlet 
 moulds according to your company, spread some 
 puff-paste over the dresser, cut with a round cutter 
 as many pieces as you have moulds, and put a 
 spoonful of the preparation to each ; bake next in 
 a pretty hot oven, and serve up very hot with 
 powdered sugar. Sometimes you may glaze them 
 with the salamander. 
 
 No. 9.— French Cheesecakes. 
 
 Take some of the petit choux paste, made with 
 water ; mix with it some frontage a la cream , that 
 has been curdled cold, and then proceed for the 
 rest as above. 
 
 S 
 
 PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS. 
 
 No. 1.— Gateaux d la Polonoise. 
 
 Spread about half a pound of puff-paste, to the 
 size of half a sheet of foolscap paper, throw some 
 flour lightly over the dresser, to prevent its stick¬ 
 ing to it, and cut directly the paste into squares 
 of two inches and a half: dip the paste brush into 
 the dorure ;* and touch the four corners of the 
 
 * Dorure is an egg beaten up, yolk and white together. 
 
454 
 
 paste and the middle; turn each corner up to the 
 middle, press them together with one finger, and 
 brush them lightly over again with the dorure; 
 put them into a very hot oven. \ ou may have 
 twenty-four for an entremet; but they must be 
 small. Yv hen they are done, sift some pounded 
 su^gar over them, and glaze them very bright. 
 While they are hot, make a little hole in^the 
 middle of the paste, and garnish with apricot or 
 any other marmalade. 
 
 No. 2 —Puits (TAmour garnished zvith Jam. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste as directed above, a foot 
 square, and three-eighths of an inch thick. Have 
 
 a small cutter 
 
 cut about two dozen; brush 
 
 a plafond over with a little dorure , and put those 
 small pasties on it, pressing on each of them with 
 your finger: then brush each of them over with 
 the dorure; open the little mark in the centre with 
 a knife, and bake them quickly in a hot oven. 
 Y, hen done, glaze as above, then take out the 
 crumb in the middle, and put the pasties on a 
 clean sheet of paper, to draw off the butter. Gar¬ 
 nish with different coloured sweetmeats, as cherry 
 and apricot jam. J 
 
 No. 3. —Petites Bouchees garnished. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste as above, and cut it ex¬ 
 actly m the same form, but smaller; but instead of 
 dorure , use only the white of eggs lightly frothed. 
 Pound some treble-refined sugar very coarse’, and 
 sift it. Spread the coarser part which remains in 
 the sieve over the pastry, and bake it directly; but 
 the oven must not be so hot as for the preceding 
 
455 
 
 article ; push in the little hollow in the centre, and 
 garnish with raspberry iam, or cherries. 
 
 No. 4 .—Lozenges garnished. 
 
 Spread some paste as above, and cut it in the 
 shape <3> of lozenges; open a small hole in 
 
 the middle, bake and glaze it as the preced¬ 
 ing articles, and garnish the same with different 
 coloured sweetmeats. 
 
 No. 5 .—FeuiLlaniines Pralinees. 
 
 Spread and cut some puff-paste as above, and 
 brush it over with white of egg; chop some Jor¬ 
 dan almonds very fine, mix them with some sugar, 
 and spread them over the paste; bake them in 
 an oven not too hot, and serve them without sweet¬ 
 meats. 
 
 No. 6 .—Gateaux d la Manon. 
 
 Spread some very thin puff-paste on a buttered 
 baking sheet; pour over it equally some apricot 
 marmalade, put some dorure all round the edge, 
 and lay over the sweetmeat another very thin 
 paste, which you have rolled lightly round the 
 rolling-pin; then put some dorure all over equally, 
 mark with a knife on the surface some lines cross¬ 
 ing each other, to cut it 
 
 squares thus 
 
 xX \ 1 
 
 / / S / / 
 
 when done into lone 
 
 O 
 
 the marks on the 
 
 square are made with a knife as ornament, and to 
 prevent bladders of air. Glaze as above, and sepa¬ 
 rate the squares when cold. 
 
 No. 
 
 7- 
 
 -Croques cn louche . 
 
 When you have some remnants of paste, handle 
 them together, and spread it out with the rolling- 
 
456 
 
 pin very thin; roll the paste over the rolling-pin, and 
 lay it on a buttered baking sheet; rub this over with 
 white of egg. Spread some coarse sugar equally 
 over it, mark it strongly through with some plain 
 paste cutter, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 When done, take the shaped part to make the 
 dish. \ ou may cut them sometimes in plain 
 rounds, and at other times hollow out the centre 
 of the circle, making of it a strong ring called lorg¬ 
 nettes. 
 
 No. 8 .—Feuiilantines garnished. 
 
 Cut some puff-paste into pieces of the length of 
 a finger, and about a third of an inch thick, 
 flutter a baking dish, and lay the paste on it side¬ 
 ways, at a distance from each other; put them 
 into tiie oven without dorure. Observe, that when 
 the sides of the paste have spread, and have ac¬ 
 quired consistence, you must glaze with fine sugar, 
 and take them out when done. Then drain them 
 of the butter, by putting them on a sheet of paper, 
 and garnish lightly with sweetmeat. 
 
 No. 9 .—Petits Paniers , garnished with Jam. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste on the dresser, about 
 twe-eighths of an inch thick, then cut with a 
 
 cutter of this shape ; put them into a 
 
 baking dish, and give them a good colour with the 
 dorure; bake them in a very hot oven, and glaze 
 with sugar ; garnish the round part with cherries, 
 and mark the lines on the side of the basket with 
 currant-jelly, cut in fillets. Eighteen for a dish. 
 
 No. 10 .—Petites Nattes , decorated. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste about an eighth of an 
 
457 
 
 inch thick, cut out of it three ribbons, of the same 
 length. Lay one on the dresser, and with your 
 finger put a little dornre on the end of another, 
 and stick it to the head of the first; then put the 
 third in the middle by the same process, and plat 
 them, beginning by the two outside ribbons; 
 when platted, put again a little dorure to stick 
 them together ; dore them lightly, and bake them 
 in a hot oven. Glaze with fine sugar, and when 
 done, garnish between the twists with currant- 
 jelly cut into fillets. 
 
 No. 11.— Little Cockades garnished.. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste on the dresser, about a 
 quarter of an inch thick, cut it with a large fluted 
 round cutter, about the same as for patties ; cut 
 a hole in the middle with a small plain round 
 cutter, then as quickly as possible with your 
 finger turn the paste, so as to put the inside on the 
 baking dish, and the outside above; put them at 
 a great distance from each other on the baking 
 dish, as the pastes spread sideways instead of 
 rising; bake in a hot oven, and glaze of a good 
 colour. When done, they represent exactly a 
 cockade. Garnish with fillets of sweetmeat to form 
 the plaits of the cockade. 
 
 No. 12.— Apricot Cakes trellised. 
 
 Spread some puff-paste over the dresser; trim¬ 
 mings will do for these cakes ; spread it equally 
 on a large buttered baking sheet, by using the 
 rolling-pin as above. Spread some apricot mar¬ 
 malade over the paste equally, then cut some more 
 paste long and narrow, roll it about the size of 
 strong cord, and arrange it crossways like a trellis 
 over the marmalade; put dorure over the bars 
 lightly, and lastly, bake in a moderately hot oven. 
 
 x 
 
458 
 
 When done, cut it into small oblong squares, and 
 dress them on the dish one above the other. 
 
 As there is an immense variety of paste cutters, 
 select your own forms ; the paste is always the 
 same. Decorate sometimes with almonds cut into 
 different shapes, and sometimes with almonds 
 coloured with green of spinach. It would be too 
 tedious and minute to attempt even describing the 
 various forms. The ingenuity of the practi¬ 
 tioner will supply the ornaments, which must al- 
 vvavs be made of sweetmeat. 
 
 BRIOCHE PASTE. 
 
 Take fifteen good fresh eggs, four pounds of 
 very dry flour, and two pounds of fresh butter. Lay 
 the flour on the table after you have sifted it. 
 Divide it into four equal parts ; take one of them 
 to make the levain ; make a hole in the centre, 
 and use some yeast that has been well washed. 
 What we call washing the yeast, is pouring some 
 water over it, stirring it, and then letting it stand 
 still. When all the dregs are at the bottom of 
 the vessel, you throw away all the water that is 
 on the top, and take about a large table-spoonful 
 of the sediment, which you put into the fourth 
 part of the flour. Then take some hot water, 
 pour it gently over the yeast, and mix the paste 
 directly, in order to avail yourself of its strength. 
 Do not make it too liquid ; powder some flour in 
 a little stew-pan, put the yeast paste* into the 
 pan, make slight slits over the paste, cover the 
 pan, and lay it before the fire; a quarter of an 
 hour after, see whether the yeast has risen : if it 
 
 * Yeast paste, is what we call levain. 
 
459 
 
 has swelled, dilute the brioche directly, in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner: 
 
 Make a great hole in the remaining three-fourths 
 of the flour, put four small pinches of salt on as 
 many different places, with a good pinch of sugar, 
 to correct the bitter taste of the yeast, anti a little 
 water to melt the salt. Then take two pounds of 
 butter, which you break into small pieces with 
 your hand, and put in the middle of the flour: 
 next break the eggs, and smell them successively 
 to ascertain if they are good : mix the whole well 
 together, and then fraisez the paste as follows: 
 spread it lengthways on the edge of the table, then 
 with the palms of both hands, press upon it, pushing 
 it by degrees towards the middle of the table; 
 when you have thus worked the whole of the paste, 
 bring it back again towards the edge, and fraisez 
 it a second time ; again bring it near the edge of 
 the table, and pour the yeast paste all over it: next, 
 divide the whole into small pieces, which you shift 
 from one place to another : this operation is to mix 
 the yeast with the paste properly. Now fraisez 
 the paste well again twice, and gather the whole up 
 together. Take a large sieve or an earthen pan, in 
 which spread a towel, powder a little flower over 
 the towel, put the paste on it, and cover it with the 
 towel. In summer time remove the paste to a 
 cool place, and in winter time to a warm one. 
 Observe, that the paste is better when made on 
 the preceding day, and take care to break the 
 paste several times before you use it: then cut it 
 into equal pieces, and shape them with the palms 
 of your hands; lav these on the less even size; 
 shape off small balls, which you turn also with 
 your palms, brush them over with a beaten egg, 
 then make a little hollow, put the small ball into 
 it, brush twice over with the egg, and bake it in a 
 
 x 2 
 
460 
 
 hot oven. If you wish to make a large brioche , 
 you must make a very large round well-buttered 
 paper-case: and then mould your paste accord¬ 
 ingly. Make a head the same as for the small 
 one, and bake in a hot oven, but not so hot as 
 is used for the small ones, for the larger the arti¬ 
 cles of pastries are, the less must be the heat of 
 the oven. The borders of the brioche , or pies, 
 &c. would burn before the middle part could 
 hardly be heated. When you perceive that the 
 brioche has colour enough, if it should not be 
 thoroughly baked, cover it with paper without 
 losing sight of the colour. This same paste may 
 serve to make all sorts of little entremets , such 
 as 
 
 Les pelites nattes en gateaux cle Ncinterre; 
 
 Les petits pains sucres. The only difference 
 is, that you must put some coarse sugar over these, 
 and sometimes currants inside. 
 
 If you make them of different shapes, you give 
 them different names, and by this means you make 
 a multiplicity of entremets; however, you have 
 already a sufficient number of them at your dis 
 posal, without introducing many sorts of brioches , 
 as they are too nourishing after dinner ; but they 
 are very good for balls and routs. 
 
 It is easy to make a great number of different 
 dishes with the brioche paste, by giving it different 
 forms, and employing different means for the top; 
 sometimes use the dorure , sometimes use white 
 of egg, and sometimes coarse sugar spread over 
 without colour; put paper over them to prevent 
 them from taking too much colour. Sometimes 
 you may use milk alone to colour it, sometimes 
 the same paste. When you have given several 
 forms to the paste, and intend to give them different 
 names, you may likewise change the flavour by 
 
461 
 
 using a little saffron dissolved in a glass of malaga 
 and sugar : make some of one sort, with half of this 
 paste, and with the remainder add a few black 
 currants, and give to those a different form still; 
 by these means you will obtain a multiplicity of 
 cakes, having all the same original, but possess¬ 
 ing different flavours and different appearances. 
 
 Gateau de Compiegne. 
 
 The same paste as for brioches ; only keep it 
 more liquid with some hot milk. Put in a few 
 stoned raisins and currants. This cake is made in 
 a mould well trimmed with butter. 
 
 Baba. 
 
 Dilute this paste the same as the brioche. Take 
 eight grains of saffron, which infuse in a little 
 water, and then pour this water into the paste; 
 add two glasses of Madeira, some currants, raisins, 
 and a little sugar; then make the cakes as you 
 do the brioches. You must butter the mould 
 when you put them in ; the oven must be mo¬ 
 derately hot, as the babas must remain a long 
 time in ; after one hour you must looft at them, 
 and preserve the colour by putting some paper over 
 them. 
 
 Brioches au Fromage. 
 
 Make this paste as for other brioches , only have 
 some Swiss cheese, which you cut into dice, and 
 throw into the paste while it is still liquid. Bake 
 it as you would any other brioche. 
 
 NOUGAT. 
 
 For an entremet , cut in dice or in filets a pound 
 of sweet almonds, and mix with them six or eight 
 bitter almonds. Before you cut the almonds into 
 
462 
 
 dice they should be blanched, in order that the 
 peel may come off. When they are cut equally, 
 dry them in the oven, but keep them white; take 
 three or four spoonsful of superfine pounded sugar, 
 put it over a slow fire in a preserving-pan ; when 
 the sugar is melted without having used any water, 
 throw the almonds in, but take care that they are 
 quite dry. Stir the sugarwith a clean wooden skewer. 
 If you hear a noise when you throw them into the 
 sugar, it is a sign that they are dry enough. Hub 
 a mould slightly over inside with oil or butter, 
 and lay some almonds in beds as thinly as possi¬ 
 ble ; take an oiled lemon to press the almonds 
 with: but be quick, otherwise the almonds will 
 get cool, and then they cannot be worked so thin. 
 The nougat requires to be light, to be made to 
 perfection. Sometimes you may make the nougat 
 in a mould of the form of a vase, sometimes in 
 small dariole moulds, according to your choice ; 
 it is always the same thing, but you may cut the 
 almonds of different shapes. These entremets will 
 give you at least six or eight varieties, when cut 
 long and square, put them in the oven to soften 
 them again, oil a broomstick and put it into the 
 nougat to take the form of it, this you may call 
 gaufre la nougat. Again, take some white al¬ 
 monds chopped very fine, and have a green of 
 spinach made as directed in the sauces, then rub 
 the almond with the green 1;o make them appear 
 like pistaches ; (pistaches are preferable, if at 
 hand) but almonch are much cheaper and will 
 answer as well; cry them very well, and make 
 some sugar au casse, which you will find ex¬ 
 plained hereafter. Dip the two extremities of the 
 nougat but lightly in the sugar, and afterwards 
 in the green aimonds; put this over a clean paper 
 in a dry place. You will find this entremet have 
 
463 
 
 a very good appearance and an excellent flavour. 
 It may be made sometimes with white almonds, 
 sometimes cut in lozenges and bordered with the 
 green and white, &c. 
 
 Sometimes make a pound of almonds into nou¬ 
 gat , oil a baking dish, and spread the nougat 
 over it, oil the rolling pin, and flatten the nougat 
 with it; if it will spread easy, put it in the oven 
 again to make it soft; then cut it into small long 
 squares, and keep it in a very dry place, to pre¬ 
 vent the nougat from sticking to the fingers. 
 
 SWEET ENTREMETS AND HOT 
 PASTRY. 
 
 Dry Meringues. 
 
 It is to be observed, that meringues , to be well 
 made, require the eggs to be fresh, and that you 
 are not to break them till the very moment you 
 are going to use them. Have some pounded sugar 
 that is quite dry, break the white ot the eggs into 
 a clean and very deep pan, break them without 
 loss of time, till they are very firm, then take as 
 many spoonsful of sugar as you have whites, and 
 beat them lightly with the eggs till the whole is 
 well mixed. Observe, that you are to be very 
 expeditious in making the meringues, to prevent 
 the sugar from melting in the eggs. Have some 
 boards 5 thick enough to prevent the bottom of the 
 meringues from getting baked in the oven. Cut 
 slips of paper two inches broad, on which place 
 the meringues with a spoon ; give them the shape 
 of an egg cut in half, and let them all be of an 
 «qual size: sift some sugar over them, and blow 
 off the sugar that may have fallen on the paper; 
 
464 
 
 next lay your slips of paper on a board, and bake 
 them in an oven moderately hot. As soon as thev 
 begin to colour, remove them from the oven : take 
 each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it 
 gently on the table; take off a little of the middle 
 " ith a small spoon. Spread some clean paper on 
 the board, turn the meringues upside down on that 
 papei, and put tnem into the oven, that the crumb 
 or soft part may be baked and acquire substance. 
 When you have done this, keep them in a dry 
 place till wanted. When you send them up to 
 table, fill them with creme <x lei Chantilli , or with 
 something acid. Remember, however, that you 
 are not to use articles that are very sweet, ‘the 
 meringues being sweet in themselves. Mind that 
 the spoon is to be filled with sugar to the brim, 
 for the sweeter the meringues are, the better and 
 crisper they are; but if, on the contrary, you do 
 not sugar enough, the meringues are tough. The 
 pink is sometimes made by adding a little carmine 
 diluted in some of the apareil, but the white ones 
 are piefeiable; if a clean sheet of paper is put 
 into a small stock-pot, and the meringues also 
 put therein, and well covered, they will keep for 
 one or two months as good and crisp as the 
 first day : on which account, if you have a vacancy 
 for one dish, which is wanted in haste, it will be 
 found very advantageous to have them made be¬ 
 fore hand. 
 
 Meringues au Marasquin au Sucre Chaud . 
 
 For a pound of sugar take the whites often eggs, 
 and clarify the sugar as directed in its proper place! 
 Reduce it almost au casse, then let it cool, while 
 you beat your eggs well; next put them with the 
 sugar. When the sugar begins to get cool, mix 
 the eggs well with it with a wooden spoon; then 
 
465 
 
 mix two spoonsful of marasquin with the whole; 
 dress the meringues on some paper as above, and 
 glaze with sugar sifted over them, before you put 
 them into the oven, which, by the by, is not to 
 be so hot as for other meringues. As soon as 
 the top gets a substance, take them from the 
 paper, stick two together, and put them into the 
 hot closet to dry. Leave the moist part in the 
 middle. These meringues belong more particularly 
 to confectionary, as they are sweeter than any 
 other. 
 
 Gimblettes Paste. 
 
 The gimblettes are introduced next to the me¬ 
 ringues, because this kind of paste is made with 
 the yolk of eggs, whereas the whites only are used 
 in making the meringues. It is by his adherence 
 to these principles of economy, that a good cook 
 distinguishes himself. For eight yolks take two 
 ounces of butter, half a pound of flour, a pinch of 
 salt, one ounce of sugar, and a little milk ; work 
 the paste with your hand on the table; add to it 
 a little rasped lemon-peel, or a little orange-flower. 
 Cut the paste into small pieces, which roll up the 
 size of your little finger, and make rings with 
 them: solder them with a little dorure.* Next 
 rub a baking sheet over with butter, and lay the 
 gimblettes on it. Mind that they are all of an equal 
 size. Brush them twice over with the dorure , and 
 bake them in an oven that is but very moderately 
 hot. This paste undergoes no change while in the 
 oven; let it get quite dry, for gimblettes require 
 to be made crisp. Sometimes you can twist them 
 to vary the form. This pastry is sometimes given 
 by the French ladies to their little dogs ; it is very 
 
 * Yoiks of eggs well beaten, 
 x 3 
 
466 
 
 delicate in flavour, when perfumed with orange- 
 flower, ranilia, lemon, or otherwise. 
 
 Clarified Sugar. 
 
 Break the sugar in small pieces, weighing each 
 about half a pound ; put them into the stew-pan, 
 with clear water, sufficient to dissolve this, add two 
 or three drops of the whites of eggs (a trifle more 
 if the sugar be very, dirty), beat the water very 
 well till you find it turn white, then pour it over 
 the sugar, and put the stew-pan on the fire. Let 
 the sugar boil before you skim away the dirt; pour 
 a little more water over the syrup, then skim 
 again, and when very clear, drain it through a 
 clean silk sieve, and use when wanted. This sugar 
 may be reduced so as to spin, but the surest way 
 is to use treble refined sugar, broken small, and 
 put it in a small preserving-pan with a very little 
 clear water; put it over a sharp fire, keep the pan 
 clean all round with a damp rubber, to prevent 
 the sugar taking any colour; when you perceive 
 that the sugar swells in a large globe, have some 
 cold water in a glass ; dip your finger very quickly 
 into the water; then in the sugar, and again into 
 the water ! if the sugar that has adhered to your 
 finger breaks very crisp, it is ready to spin, let it 
 cool a little, and with a damp cloth wipe the side 
 of the pan to cool the sugar, and prevent its taking 
 too much colour, if you have a little apple-jelly 
 at hand, put a tea-spoon full of it into the sugar : 
 it will improve it wonderfully. This will warm 
 again over a small fire, or at the mouth of the 
 oven. 
 
 ROYAL PASTE, LITE AU CHOUX. 
 This paste is the basis of many sorts of pastry ; 
 
467 
 
 it is used to make an infinite number of entremets of 
 various forms, and of different denominations. 
 The author will, in the first place, explain the 
 manner of making it; and will next briefly enu¬ 
 merate its various appellations. 
 
 Take a stew-pan large enough to contain four 
 pints of water; pour half a pint of water into it 
 with a quarter of a pound or a little more of fresh 
 butter, two ounces of sugar, a little salt, and the peel 
 of a lemon; let the whole boil till the butter is 
 entirely melted. Then take some very fine dry 
 flour, and shake it through a sieve. Take the 
 lemon-peel out with a ladle, and throw a handful 
 of flour into the preparation while boiling; pay 
 attention, however, not to put more flour than 
 the liquor can soak up. Stir with a wooden spoon 
 till the paste can easily be detached from the stew- 
 pan, and then take it off the fire. Next break an 
 egg into this paste, and mix it well; then break 
 a second, which also mix ; do not put more eggs 
 than the paste can absorb, but you must be care¬ 
 ful not to make this preparation too liquid. It 
 is almost certain, that about five or six eggs will 
 be wanted for the above quantity; then form 
 them en choux, by which is meant, in the shape 
 of a ball an inch in circumference. As this paste 
 swells very much, you must dress it accordingly. 
 Abroad, we use the technical word coucher , and 
 we say coucher les choux , les biscuits, &c. but in 
 a foreign country we must as much as possible 
 adopt the expressions there in common use; I 
 therefore say, dress , which is to put the choux on 
 a baking sheet, at. an inch distance from each 
 other, in order that they may undergo a greater 
 effect in the oven. Brush them over as usual 
 with the dorure , to which has been added a little 
 milk. Put them into an oven moderately hot, 
 
468 
 
 but do not open the oven till they are quite baked, 
 otherwise they would flatten, and all attempts to 
 make them rise again would be useless : next dry 
 them. Sometimes you may glaze them; at other 
 times you may send them up without being glazed. 
 To detach them from the baking sheet, apply the 
 sharp edge of your knife, and take them off gently. 
 T. hen make a small opening on the side, into 
 which put with a tea-spoon, such sweetmeats as 
 you think proper, and send them up dished en 
 buisson. 
 
 N. B .—Be cautious to smell every egg before 
 you use it, for a bad one would spoil them all. 
 
 Les Petits Clioux Pralines. 
 
 I he same paste as above, only when the clioux 
 are dressed on the baking sheet and done, sprinkle 
 them over with some sweet almonds chopped 
 very fine, and mixed with a little pounded sugar. 
 Next turn the sheet down, and powder again with 
 the almonds; then bake and garnish with sweet¬ 
 meats, as directed above. 
 
 Les Gimblettes d la d'Artois. 
 
 The same paste as above, with this only differ¬ 
 ence, that after having dressed the clioux at greater 
 distances, dorez them, by dipping your finger into 
 the dorure, and then into the middle of the each 
 clioux pressing on the baking sheet. Turn your 
 finger round a little to widen the hole; do this 
 to every choux , and form a small crown ; put them 
 into a moderately hot oven, and do not open it 
 till they are done. When they are baked enough, 
 take some very fine pounded sugar, and throw it 
 into a silk sieve. Shake the sieve gently over the 
 gimblettes, and put them again into the oven for 
 a moment to dry the sugar, next glaze of a fine 
 colour with the salamander, and introduce sweet¬ 
 meats, &c Garnish as before. 
 
469 
 
 Les Gimblettes Pralines. 
 
 The same paste and method as above. Before 
 you put them into the oven, powder them over 
 with chopped almonds, and bake them of a good 
 colour: garnish the inside with sweetmeats. 
 
 Basket of Petits Choux a la Chantilli. 
 
 The same paste again, only in this case make 
 the choux very small, rolling them on the paste¬ 
 board with a little flour; then bake them like all 
 others, but without glazing them. Next have 
 some clarified sugar aa casse, stick the point of a 
 small skewer into the choux, and dip them one after 
 another into the sugar. Stick all the choux to¬ 
 gether round a buttered mould of the shape of 
 a basket; stick them well together, especially 
 about the top, for it is generally the upper part 
 of the basket that is most liable to break. To 
 make the handles, use the side of a stew-pan of 
 the same circumference as the height of the basket, 
 and stick some of the choux close to each other 
 to make the handles: next apply the handle to 
 the basket, and stick it on. When ready to send 
 up, pour some cream a la Chantilli into the basket, 
 and then serve up. If you pay strict attention, 
 this entremet will have a pleasing appearance. 
 
 N. B. —You can follow 3 our own taste with re¬ 
 gard to the shape } r ou give to the choux , and vary 
 the moulds accordingly, either made into baskets, 
 round or oval, vases, &c. &c. Mind always to 
 butter the moulds inside or outside; otherwise 
 the sugar would stick, and the shape would not 
 come out. 
 
 Creme a la Chantilli. 
 
 Have about a pint and a half of very good thick 
 cream, put it into a cool place. When you 
 
want to garnish the pastry, or whatever you want 
 to garnish, take a whip, as used in the kitchen, 
 and whip the cream as quickly as possible. When 
 sufficiently stiff, flavour it to your taste, and add 
 very little sugar, as it will make the cream turn into 
 water; sugar may be added at the table. This 
 must be particularly attended to if you would 
 have the chantilli look well, because if sugar is 
 added, it will dissolve in the cream, and spoil its 
 appearance and flavour. 
 
 Pains d la Duchesse. 
 
 The same paste again, with this difference, that 
 you must first make on the paste-board some 
 round balls with the paste, and then roll them lightly 
 as long as your finger; next lay them on the 
 baking sheet, dorez them with milk only, and bake 
 them either glazed or not, as you think proper: 
 when done, open them at the bottom, and fill 
 them with sweetmeats.—The number of forms 
 that can be made with this paste is very consi¬ 
 derable ; but it is impracticable for the learner 
 to undertake so many at once. If you make pro¬ 
 perly the articles you find here, your own under¬ 
 standing will soon lead you to improvement. 
 
 Choux en Biscuits, dits Gateaux d la cV Artois. 
 
 Take a pint of thin cream, which boil in a stew- 
 pan large enough to contain four quarts, with a little 
 salt, a little sugar, a pinch of orange-flow r er praline, 
 and tw T o ounces of fresh butter. When the cream has 
 boiled, skim off the orange-flower. Take some 
 dry flour that has been sifted through a silk sieve, 
 and throw a handful into the boiling cream. If 
 the cream can absorb more, put a little more to 
 dry on the fire, and keep stirring with the wooden 
 spoon till the paste no longer sticks to it. Next 
 take five very fresh eggs, break three of them 
 
471 
 
 whole, one after the other, and stir quick : then 
 throw in the yolks only of the other two, but as 
 that is not sufficient to moisten your paste pro¬ 
 perly, add as much thick cream to it as the paste 
 can imbibe. Do not make this paste too liquid ; 
 dress the choux on a baking sheet, with a spoon ; 
 give them the shape of an egg, dorez them, and 
 put them into the oven. When they are baked, 
 glaze them first with sugar ; next use the salaman¬ 
 der, and serve up hot. 
 
 Pain de la Meque. 
 
 The same paste as the above, with this ad¬ 
 dition only, when they are dressed on the baking 
 dish, of some coarse sugar, and bake them as 
 usual. 
 
 N. B .—This method is quite plain, but it can¬ 
 not be altered. You may sometimes stick two 
 together with apricot marmalade between them. 
 
 Observation .—When you have succeeded so far as to 
 make the pate ropale well, it only requires a small 
 share of abilities to produce an infinite variety of en¬ 
 tremets. You may make a hole on the top, in the 
 middle, and fill it with creme patissiere, and put 
 it into the oven again. Another time, if you wish 
 to make rocks, or croquantes , you manage to frame 
 the doors or apertures, by erecting small choux 
 
 one above another, in the shape of an arch 
 
 pralinez them with chopped almonds, made green 
 with the green of spinach, and dried. You may 
 also shape them into sheaves. Make these choux 
 very small, but long; then cut the point of one 
 side, and with the sugar au casse , stick one 
 agaiiM another round the dish, then stick another 
 course close to the border of the dish, to strengthen 
 the structure, so as to represent water-works. The 
 choux are not to be of the same length, in this 
 
 O 
 
case. With the point of a skewer put a Jittle 
 melted sugar all along the sticks, to stick them 
 together properly. Fill the middle with frothed 
 cream, which has been mixed with a little maras- 
 guino. If you should have a little sugar left, 
 sprinkle it gently in a buttered mould to cover the 
 cream, like a small sultane. 
 
 La Cascade d la Chantilli. 
 
 Make the pate or clioux as directed at the pate 
 royale; when the paste is made rather firm, put 
 some on the pastry table ; when you have spread 
 some flour lightly, then roll this paste about eight 
 inches in bulk, and put it in a baking dish, and 
 dore with the eggs prepared for that purpose; 
 make sufficient of this to stick round the dish 
 which you mean to serve, let room, however, be 
 left for another row not so long, to come pre¬ 
 cisely on the border of the inside ; try if you have 
 enough to shut close, as you must put cream in 
 the middle. The clioux should be close to one 
 another ; cut the points off one side ; dip this in 
 the sugar au casse , then stick these on the dish, 
 and go on all round ; when they have all stuck in 
 the dish, fasten them together, by dipping a skewer 
 in the hot sugar, and dropping it between the sticks 
 of paste; when they become solid, put the chantilli 
 au marasquin , in the middle, and spin the remain¬ 
 ing sugar in a little mould to cover the cream. 
 
 SAVOY BISCUITS HOT. 
 
 Take a dozen fresh eggs, break them into a ves¬ 
 sel, which is to be put into another containing some 
 water nearly boiling. With these eggs mix a pound 
 of superfine pounded sugar. Beat them well in 
 the vessel which stands in the hot water. When 
 you perceive that the eggs are no longer soft, put 
 
three quarters of a pound of flour into a silk sieve 
 not very closely woven ; mix the flour well with the 
 eggs, which is done by shaking 1 the sieve, then add 
 about two spoonsful of orange-flower water. If 
 you only use lemon, put in a spoonful of cold 
 water. Rub a mould over with butter ; powder 
 some sugar round, fill that mould with the prepa¬ 
 ration, powder some sugar over it, and bake it in 
 an oven moderately hot. Ascertain with a little 
 skewer whether the middle part is sufficiently 
 baked, before you take it out of the oven. If the 
 biscuit is not very large, it will be done in three 
 quarters of an hour. Biscuits, like other pastries 
 of a large size, require the oven not to be too hot, 
 and therefore they must be kept in a longer time. 
 
 Savoy Biscuits , Cold.* 
 
 Take a little more than half a pound of very 
 fine dry flour, one pound of very dry pounded 
 sugar, and fourteen or fifteen eggs very fresh; if 
 the eggs are large, fourteen are sufficient. Rasp 
 over the sugar the peel of two lemons or oranges ; 
 put that sugar to dry; then have two vessels, one 
 for the whites and one for the yolks; break the 
 eggs one by one, and be particular in smelling 
 them, as one bad one will spoil all; put the dry 
 sugar with the yolks, and work them together with 
 two new wooden spoons, put also the sugar of 
 lemon ; next whip the whites very firm, and to 
 prevent them from turning, put a small pinch of 
 calcined alum, in powder; when the whites are 
 very firm, take half to mix with the yolks; then 
 put all together, and put the flour into a hair sieve, 
 and sift it over the eggs ; mix gently with the whip, 
 
 * These biscuits are more delicate if made with the flour of 
 potatoes: be careful to have the flour very dry, as this cir¬ 
 cumstance is of primary importance in the perfecting of this 
 paste. 
 
474 
 
 then butter a mould, and powder it over with fine 
 sugar; put the biscuit into the mould a little at a 
 time, to prevent the bladders at the top ; put some 
 ashes on a baking-dish, and put the mould over 
 this in the oven ; the heat must be moderate; 
 about one hour is requisite to bake this biscuit, 
 and mind not to move it till it is quite done. 
 
 Biscuits in Cases. 
 
 Make some small paper cases, and use the same 
 preparation as above. Do not fill the cases too 
 much, and put some coarse sugar over them before 
 you put them into the oven, which must not be too 
 hot. 
 
 Biscuits a la Cuilliere. 
 
 Take a silver spoon, and use the same paste as 
 above. To dress Savoy biscuits, and biscuits a la 
 Cuilliere , you must glaze them with fine sugar, 
 and bake them in a very temperate oven. 
 
 PASTE FOR TARTS. 
 
 Spread on the table two handsful of flour, two 
 spoonsful of pounded sugar, a pinch of salt, an 
 ounce of butter, and a little water to melt the salt. 
 Make a hole in the middle of the flour ; break into 
 it two whole eggs besides the yolk of another ; mix 
 the paste well, and it will serve you for making 
 tarts, tartlets, and for mounting croquantes. In¬ 
 crease the quantity of ingredients, according to the 
 quantity of paste you may have occasion for. This 
 paste is generally used to make the huge pieces ; 
 it can be made into all sorts of forms. 
 
 Apple Tart with Dry Paste. 
 
 Cut some apple in four quarters; peel, and 
 put them into a baking tart dish, with a little 
 lemon-peel; some white pounded or moist sugar ; 
 
475 
 
 pour a drop of water into the bottom of the dish, 
 and spread the paste, with the rolling-pin, on the 
 pastry table. Cut some of it very thin (as directed 
 in the paste for tarts) and with the paste brush 
 moisten it all round ; roll the paste round the roll¬ 
 ing-pin, and put it equally over the apple and the 
 other paste. Press the paste all round with your 
 finger to make it adhere. Take the dish in your 
 left hand, and with a knife cut off, all round, the 
 superfluity ; then, with the back of the knife, make 
 some marks all round the paste, about an inch dis¬ 
 tant from one another. 
 
 Creme Patissiere , or Frangipane. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan the yolks of six fresh eggs, 
 two spoonsful of fine dry flour, and mix them well 
 with a wooden spoon ; dilute this with a pint and 
 a half of boiling cream, and a pinch of salt; turn 
 this over the fire to do the paste. When it begins 
 to boil, take it off the fire to mix it well; then put 
 it on again for about twelve minutes. Melt a 
 quarter of a pound of very fresh butter in a stew- 
 pan, and when properly clarified, add it to the 
 paste, and put the whole into a basin to cool. Next 
 rasp upon a bit of sugar the peel of a lemon (put 
 sugar according to your taste), and add to it an 
 ounce of bitter macaroons ; if the paste is too thick, 
 put to it a spoonful of cream; if too thin, the 
 yolks of two eggs. This cream must take various 
 flavours, as vanilla, orange, coffee, chocolate, &c. 
 &c. but it is always the same cream. When you 
 wish to make a very fine tartlet, mix with this 
 cream some fromaye a la creme. Put some trim¬ 
 mings of puff-paste into buttered tartlet moulds, 
 and a spoonful of the cream over the paste, and a 
 little star of paste over the middle : bake them in 
 a pretty sharp oven. Glaze with fine sugar, and 
 use the salamander, that the star may be well 
 
glazed. This sort of cream is used only for tourtes , 
 tartlets, and darioles. 
 
 Almond Paste. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch them in 
 boiling water ; take off the peel, and let them soak 
 in cold water four hours ; then pound them well in 
 a mortar; add a little water, to prevent them from 
 turning to oil, after they are very fine and quite in 
 a paste, put in three-quarters of a pound of sugar 
 well pounded, and mix all together in the mortar. 
 If your paste is quite fine, take it out of the mortar, 
 put it into a stew-pan over a slow fire, and stir it 
 with a wooden spoon till it becomes white and dry; 
 then put it again into the mortar, and mix with it 
 a little melted gum tragacanth, that has been 
 strained through a towel; take care to keep it 
 covered, to prevent it from drying. You may 
 give what scent you please, as lemon, vanilla, rose, 
 orange, &c. &c. If you use almond paste to make 
 vases, or baskets, or tartlets, keep it always free 
 from dust, spread it on a marble with a rolling- 
 pin as thin as possible, and if you put it into a 
 mould, butter the mould lightly, and give the paste 
 the form of it. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 N.B. Almond paste should always be kept in 
 a gallipot, covered with a damp towel, to prevent 
 its drying. 
 
 Tartlets of Almond Paste. 
 
 Butter some tartlet moulds, and after having 
 spread the paste on the dresser, cut it with a cutter 
 to the size of the moulds ; put a little sweetmeat in 
 the middle, and a small rosette in the middle of 
 that. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Tartlets (f Almond Paste with Strawberries. 
 
 Spread some almond paste over the pastry table, 
 
477 
 
 and cut the paste with a fluted cutter of the same 
 size as other tartlets; butter slightly the moulds, 
 and put them into a moderate oven. When the 
 paste is done almost white, take them out of the 
 mould, and garnish with currant jelly, raspberry, 
 or apricot jam, &c. &c. As the sweetmeats do not 
 go to the oven, they are always of a better colour 
 and taste. In summer time, rub some strawberries 
 through a hair sieve, mix what you have rubbed 
 through with a little sugar and isinglass; put the 
 mixture into ice, and when frozen, put a little into 
 each mould. 
 
 Tartlets of Jam. 
 
 Take some remnants of puff-paste, which spread 
 on the table with the rolling-pin ; have some tartlet 
 moulds well buttered ; cut some paste with the 
 paste cutter, the same shape as the moulds, lav 
 the paste in each of them, and put a tea-spoonful 
 of apricot marmalade on the paste ; then cover 
 your mould with a little cover made as follows: 
 
 Take some pate a lean cliaude (see page 443), 
 have a little board engraved with three little covers 
 of different ornaments, have some coarse muslin, 
 put to it a little fine powder, tie the muslin as if 
 you were going to make a little bag of it, dust the 
 board by shaking the little bag over it, to prevent 
 the paste from sticking to it; lay some of the paste 
 over an engraved part of the board, press with your 
 thumb equally over the paste, then press with the 
 flat side of your knife, and cut off the superfluity 
 of the paste. Take the paste out of the mould 
 with a little damp paste, and moisten the border of 
 the tartlet; stick one of these little covers on each 
 of the tartlets, and bake them without any dorure ; 
 but when done, glaze them with a little sugar, and 
 use the salamander. 
 
478 
 
 N. B.—You may also make some without covers, 
 but those with covers look better, and the sweet¬ 
 meats do not dry so much. 
 
 Gauffres a la Flamande. 
 
 Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of fine 
 dry flour, and six or seven eggs ; first mix the eggs 
 with the butter in a basin, put a little salt, then 
 sift the flour over the eggs and butter, and add to 
 it a spoonful of yeast. Next mix with the above a 
 pint of double cream, work it well with your hand, 
 and put the basin on the dresser till dinner-time. 
 Grease the Gauffre mould with bacon fat for the 
 first only, as the others will come out easily without 
 any additional grease. When you serve up, sprinkle 
 some fine sugar over them. If you put the sugar 
 earlier, it will make them soft. 
 
 Gateau a la Madeleine. 
 
 Take the same weight of flour, sugar, butter, 
 and eggs. In general, eight eggs are enough for 
 an entremet; put a little salt and the rasped peel 
 of a lemon ; work this paste a little, till you have 
 put all the butter into it. Melt a little butter in a 
 stew-pan, and skim it well; pour a little into each 
 movdd, and then drain it, leaving, however, a drop 
 at the bottom to facilitate the coming out of the 
 gateau. Sift some ashes over a baking sheet, put 
 the small moulds into it, and then put paste into 
 each of them, about half the depth, to give it room 
 to rise. Bake them in a moderate oven. When 
 done, turn them out on a clean sheet of paper, and 
 put them again into the oven for a few minutes. 
 By changing the form of the mould you produce a 
 dish of a different appearance ; and by occasionally 
 emptying the inside with the point of a knife, and 
 putting into the cavity either cream or sweetmeats, 
 you make what is called gateaux d la Madeleine 
 
479 
 
 farcies. The more this paste is worked, the better 
 and the finer will be the gateau; in general, those 
 sorts of paste require a good deal of labour. 
 
 Genevoise Paste. 
 
 The same proceeding as above, only add half a 
 glass of brandy, about a quarter of a pound of 
 sweet almonds well pounded, and a few bitter ones, 
 blanched of course: when you have given the 
 flavour you choose, as lemon, cedrat, or orange, 
 spread the paste over a baking sheet, and level it 
 equally with your knife ; then put it into the oven. 
 When done, use a cutter of what shape you please 
 (as a round, or a star, or any other ornamental 
 form), and cut out as many pieces as you can, and 
 lay them on paper over a baking sheet, dry them 
 in the oven, and let them be coloured on both sides. 
 This paste can make a variety of dishes, differing 
 both in form and colour ; but the taste is the same, 
 as sugar always prevails. 
 
 White Gimhlettcs of Genevoise 
 
 Make the same paste as above, only when it is 
 nearly done, take it out of the oven, and brush it 
 over with white of egg, then after spreading over 
 the egg some chopped almonds mixed with sugar, 
 put it into the oven again. When done, take a 
 round cutter, about two inches wide, and cut out 
 as many as you can from the baking sheet; then 
 take a smaller cutter, and cut a piece out of the 
 middle, so as to produce a small wheel (this is 
 what I call a gimblette). Then dry them on paper 
 in the oven, keeping them as white as possible. 
 You may make a pretty casket in the middle, by 
 sticking all the little round genevoises with sugar 
 all over the mould, and filling the middle with a 
 creme a, la Chantilly , or Caravoise. 
 
480 
 
 Rose, or Green Gimblettes of Genevoise. 
 
 The same as above, only dye the almonds with 
 cochineal or green of spinach, after they have been 
 blanched and chopped, and dried in the hot closet. 
 Use them to diversify the colour; vary also the ' 
 shape occasionally. You may cut the genevoise 
 sometimes in long squares, sometimes in lozenges, 
 sometimes let them remain in their natural yellow 
 colour and border with chopped green almond, 
 stuck with sugar au casses. 
 
 Fruit Tart, English manner. 
 
 Spread some putf-paste over the table with a 
 rolling-pin ; cut a piece of the same size as the 
 dish, and out of the trimmings cut some strips ; 
 brush the edge of the dish with dorure , and stick 
 the strips on it; then put the fruit into the dish, 
 with some sugar and a little water; roll the paste 
 on the rolling-pin, and lay it over the fruit. Before 
 you put the paste on, brush the strips with some 
 dorure , to make it stick. When you have trimmed 
 the dish all round, spread some white of egg over 
 the tart, and sift some sugar over it: then dip the 
 paste-brush into water, and shake it over the tart. 
 Bake it properly, and serve.up cold. Apples, how¬ 
 ever, are an exception, as they are better hot. 
 
 You must do all kinds of fruit in the same way : 
 use sometimes the paste for tarts, page 474 ; but in 
 that case, no strips are absolutely necessary. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 shackell jnd bays.is, jounson’s coum, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Aigrettes, Neck of Mutton 
 
 en... 442 
 
 Allemande, Soup al’. 55 
 
 -Sauce al’... — 11 
 
 Aloze, Shad.3)0 
 
 Anchovies . 344 
 
 Anchovy Butter. 41 
 
 Apples, Charlotte of, mixed 
 
 with Apricots.406 
 
 Apple Sauce for Geese, Arc.. 19 
 
 Apples.3^<5 
 
 •-a la Portugaise. ib. 
 
 -Miroton of.396 
 
 -Suedoise of. ib. 
 
 -Chartreuse of, and 
 
 Fruit.397 
 
 - Turban of. 396 
 
 Artichokes. 370 
 
 - an Naturel.371 
 
 —-a l’Estouffade ... ib. 
 
 - a la Barigoule- 372 
 
 -a la Provenyale... ib. 
 
 -- Fried.373 
 
 -- a l’ltalienne.... ib. 
 
 - Bottoms .374 
 
 -Bottoms en Ca¬ 
 napes . ib. 
 
 Asparagus. ..378 
 
 -with Sauce 
 
 blanche, dites en Batonets 379 
 
 -Peas. ib- 
 
 -Puree of. 25 
 
 Page 
 
 Asperges, Pointes d’. 34 
 
 -- Petites Pointes d’ 35 
 
 Aspic....... 6 
 
 -lie. 15 
 
 Amande, Potage au Lait d’.. 64 
 
 Attereaux of Rabbits, a 
 
 Pltalienne. .... 258 
 
 Attelets, Sauce d’. 27 
 
 - of Sweetbreads, a 
 
 Pltalienne . 258 
 
 Aurore, Sauce a P. .. 46 
 
 - Soupe a P. 54 
 
 —- w ith Sauce blanche, 
 
 dites en Batonets.379 
 
 Beans, French . 375 
 
 -a la Poulette. ib. 
 
 -a la Lyonaise. ib. 
 
 -a la Fran^aise...... 376 
 
 -a la Provenjale- ib. 
 
 -White. ib. 
 
 -White, a la Maitre 
 
 d’Hdtel ..- • ib- 
 
 —— White,Lyonaise.... 377 
 
 White, Puree of.... 23 
 
 The same as the above. 
 
 Brown.378 
 
 Beans, Windsor, a la Poulette 390 
 
 -Windsor,a la Poulette, 
 
 another method. ib. 
 
 -and Bacon. ib. 
 
 Bechamel. I 7 
 
482 
 
 Page 
 
 Bechamel Maigre . 17 
 
 -ou Veloute. 30 
 
 Beef, Sirloin of, Roasted 
 
 133,86 
 
 -Bump of, Glazed.. 84 
 
 -Rump o 1, Braized... 85 
 
 -Breast of, a la Fla- 
 
 mande . ... 86 
 
 -Blanquette of Pa¬ 
 lates of. 124 
 
 -Blanquette of Pa¬ 
 lates of, with Peas. ib. 
 
 ■-Blanquette of Pa¬ 
 
 lates ol, with Cucumbers 125 
 -Blanquette of Pa¬ 
 lates of, with Truffles.... ib. 
 -Attelets of, Palates 
 
 of, a l’ltalienne. ib. 
 
 -Palates of, au gratin, 
 
 otherwise en Paupiette.... 126 
 
 -Miroton of, Palates 
 
 of, a la Cde. ib. 
 
 -Croquettes of, Palates 
 
 of, au Veloute. 127 
 
 Beef’s Tongue, Sauce 
 
 Hachee. ]28 
 
 -Filets, Mignons of, 
 
 sautes a la Lyonaise.... 130 
 
 -— Filetsof, muirinaded, 
 
 a la Broche. ib. 
 
 -Miroton of,.131 
 
 -Kidney of, with 
 
 Champaign Wine. ib. 
 
 -Steaks, with Pota¬ 
 toes, French fashion. 132 
 
 -Sirloin of, Braized ib. 
 
 -Brisket of, a la Fla- 
 
 mande. ib. 
 
 -L’Entree, Cote of, 
 
 Broiled, Sauce Hachee.. 134 
 -- Hachee of .... ib. 
 
 -Roast of, Lamb .. 96 
 
 -- Gravy of. 5 
 
 ---— Rib of. Braized en 
 
 Hochepot. 133 
 
 Biscuits, Savoy, Hot. 473 
 
 --Savoy, Cold. ib. 
 
 -in Cases ..... 474 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Biscuits a la Cuilliere.474 
 
 Blanc for Vegetables and 
 
 Cardons in general. 374 
 
 Blond of Veal, or Gravy of 
 
 Veal. 5 
 
 Bon Beurre, The. 17 
 
 Boudin a la Reine. 197 
 
 -s, or Puddings a la 
 
 Sefton. _ .. 214 
 
 -a la Richelieu. 118 
 
 -Sefton. 119 
 
 Bouillon de Sante.208 
 
 -Cours, for Fish au 
 
 bleu. 103 
 
 -Cour.293 
 
 Bourguignotte, The. lg 
 
 Bread, Souffle of.419 
 
 Bretonne. 23 
 
 Brill. 315 
 
 Brocoli . .•.382 
 
 Broth, First. 2 
 
 -Turnip . 59 
 
 Brup.oise, La. 55 
 
 Butter of Crawfish. 40 
 
 -— Anchovies. 41 
 
 -Melted. 37 
 
 Calf’s Head plain . 89 
 
 -with Love Ap¬ 
 ple Sauce. 90 
 
 --bigarree_ ib. 
 
 -du Puits cer¬ 
 tain . jb. 
 
 -alaChambord 91 
 
 -Brain en Matelotte.. 169 
 
 -a la Maitre 
 
 d’Hotel. ]70 
 
 -with fried Pars¬ 
 ley au Beurre noir. ib. 
 
 -Marinade of,.. ib. 
 
 -Love Apple 
 
 Sauce. | 7 i 
 
 -Ears farcies and fried 174 
 
 -Love-Apple 
 
 Sauce. ib. 
 
 ---with green Dutch 
 
 Sauce. 175 
 
 -with the Ravi- 
 
 gotte Sauce.. . ib. 
 
483 
 
 Page 
 
 Calf's Liver Larded and 
 
 Roasted. 175 
 
 ---Scollops of, 
 
 aux fines Herbes.■. ib. 
 
 -Feet plain. 177 
 
 -— Marinade. ib. 
 
 --farcies en Soleil il). 
 
 -a la Poulette.. 178 
 
 Capons a la Turque. 93 
 
 Caper SauceJor Fish.Ill 
 
 Carbonades a la Jardiniere 143 
 
 Cardinal, Red Sauce. 28 
 
 Carbons a l’Espagnole.... 361 
 
 .-Essence with 
 
 Marrow. 362 
 
 -au Veloute.. 363 
 
 -& la Sauce blanche ib. 
 
 Carp, Broiled with Caper 
 
 Sauce. 291 
 
 -Farcie, baked.292 
 
 -•- au bleu, and au Court- 
 
 bouillon . IL. 
 
 -a la Chambord . .293 
 
 --- Matelotte of, a la 
 
 Royale. 294 
 
 _- a la 
 
 Marinere .. 296 
 
 -Petits Pates of, Farce 
 
 of . it*- 
 
 -au bleu without Sauce 110 
 
 -- farci baked . 110 
 
 _Sauce a Matelotte.... ib. 
 
 _Broiled, with Caper 
 
 Sauce. Ill 
 
 __Farce of,. 119 
 
 Carrots a l’Orleans .... 392 
 
 - -Puree of... 393 
 
 _Souffle of. ib. 
 
 Cauliflower a la Sauce 
 
 blanche.. 367 
 
 _. au Veloute ib. 
 
 _with Parme¬ 
 
 san Cheese .368 
 
 ____a l’Espagnole ib. 
 
 Celeri, La Sauce au. 46 
 
 _Pur4e of. 21 
 
 __— a l’Espagnole.393 
 
 _with Sauce blanche 394 
 
 Chambord, la... 39 
 
 Page 
 
 Chambord, Pike a la. 107 
 
 Ckesnuts, Puree of. 25 
 
 -Croquettes of, a la 
 
 Dde.417 
 
 Chickens, Entrees of.202 
 
 —— a l’lvoire. ib. 
 
 -au Villeroi.. 203 
 
 -Montmorenci ib. 
 
 -■— Conde ..204 
 
 -.-Turque. ib. 
 
 -.-Tartare. 205 
 
 -Fat Pullets aux 
 
 Nouilles . ib. 
 
 -a la Barbarie with 
 
 Truffles. 206 
 
 ---Cardinal.... ib. 
 
 -- Fat Pullets a la 
 
 Givry. ib. 
 
 --1-with Italian 
 
 Paste ...204 
 
 -Fillets of Fat Pul¬ 
 lets a la Royale.207 
 
 -— Cutlets of, a I’Epi- 
 
 gramme. 208 
 
 --- Fillets of Fat, au 
 
 Supreme. ib. 
 
 —— Fillets of Fat Pul¬ 
 lets sautez a la Lucullus 209 
 
 -- Scollops of, with 
 
 Truffles.210 
 
 -— Scollops of fatPul- 
 
 lets a la Conti with Truffles ib. 
 
 _-Scollops of, a l’Es- 
 
 sence of Cucumbers ..... 211 
 
 _— Wings of, a la 
 
 Marechale. 212 
 
 _. Blanquette of, a la 
 
 Tarque. ib 
 
 --Saute of Fillets of 
 
 fat Pullets a la Turque.. ib. 
 -- Saute of Fillets of 
 
 fat Pullets, sautez au su¬ 
 preme . 213 
 
 -Wings of fat Pul¬ 
 lets a la Daupbine. ib. 
 
 -Boudins of Fillets 
 
 a la Reine. ib. 
 
 -— Boudins of, a la 
 
 Richelieu. ib. 
 
484 
 
 Page. 
 
 Chicken', Quenelles of, with 
 
 clarified Consomme. 215 
 
 -- Croquettes of, au 
 
 Veloute. 216 
 
 -- Fricassee of, au 
 
 Naturel. 217 
 
 -Fricassee of, a la 
 
 Paysanne.218 
 
 --— Fricassee, a la Che- 
 
 valiere.. 219 
 
 --Fricassee of, a la 
 
 St. Lambert.220 
 
 -, a la 
 
 Dauphine. jb. 
 
 -Marinade of, a la 
 
 St. Florentin. ib. 
 
 -Friteau of. 221 
 
 -Fricassee of, a la 
 
 Bardoux. jb. 
 
 -Capilotadeof ... ib. 
 
 - Members ol, au 
 
 Soleil, or Marinade cuite.. 222 
 
 l’Orlie . ib. 
 
 -Minced, a la Polo- 
 
 noise . ib. 
 
 - Blanquette of, 
 
 with green Peas.223 
 
 - Souffle of, a la 
 
 Creme... ib. 
 
 -Gratins of Fillets 
 
 of, with Veloute. jb. 
 
 -Galantine of. 224 
 
 -Boudins of, a la 
 
 Ude. 22,5 
 
 -Grenade of. 226 
 
 --Turbans of Fillets 
 
 of, a la Sultane... jb. 
 
 Chocolate, Souffle of. 419 
 
 Civet of Hare .... 79 
 
 -served as Soup 264 
 
 Clarified Gravy. 8 
 
 --Consomme. ib. 
 
 --Sugar... 406 
 
 Clermont, Potage a la. 52 
 
 Cocottes, les. 359 
 
 Cod, with Oyster Sauce.... 101 
 -Slices of Crimped. 102 
 
 Page 
 
 Cod, Crimped with Cream 
 
 Sauce. ib. 
 
 -with Oyster Sauce ... 322 
 
 -with Cream Sauce__ ib. 
 
 -Scollops of, en bonne 
 
 Marie. 323 
 
 -Vol au Vent of Scollops 
 
 of, a la Creme... ib, 
 
 -Scollops of, a la Maitre 
 
 d’Hotel. ib. 
 
 -Crimped, and Oyster 
 
 Sauce . 324 
 
 -Salt, a la Maitre d’Ho¬ 
 tel... jb. 
 
 -a la Provencal... 325 
 
 -with Cream Sauce ib. 
 
 -a la Bonne Femme ib. 
 
 - 1 -Lyonaise — 326 
 
 -plain. Egg Sauce ib. 
 
 Coffee, Souffle of. . .. . 419 
 
 Consomme, first. 2 
 
 -of Poultry. 3 
 
 -Game. 4 
 
 --— Rabbits. ib. 
 
 -Clarified. 8 
 
 --for the Inside of 
 
 the Cold Pie. 441 
 
 Cour Bouillon for Fish au 
 
 bleu. 108 
 
 Cour Bouillon.293 
 
 Counts, the. 9 
 
 Craw Fish a la Poulette... 308 
 
 -Bisque of. 309 
 
 -for Entrees_ ib. 
 
 --Butter of...... 40 
 
 Crabs .. 
 
 Cream of Rice. 60 
 
 -Coffee. 408 
 
 - Lemon. jb. 
 
 -Chocolate. ib. 
 
 -- a la Vanille. 409 
 
 -- au the. 410 
 
 -Orange Flower .. . ib. 
 
 -- a la Genet, dite au 
 
 Caramel. jb. 
 
 -Italian. 413 
 
 -Pine Apple. 414 
 
 -Marbled, au Cate.. 435 
 
485 
 
 Page 
 
 Cream Marbled, White Va¬ 
 nilla and Chocolate. 435 
 
 -Duriolesala.451 
 
 Creme Patissiere. 475, 398 
 
 --AnotherMe- 
 
 tbod, called Frangipane .. 399 
 
 -a la Chautilli.470 
 
 Cressi Soup. 53 
 
 Crimped Salmon.100 
 
 --Cod sliced. 102 
 
 -with Cream 
 
 Sauce. ib. 
 
 Croquets of Sweetbread .... 169 
 
 • -Fowl au Ve- 
 
 loute . 197 
 
 Cucumbers, Minced Mutton 
 with . 146 
 
 • -Blanquette of 
 
 Veal with .165 
 
 - Essence of.... 43 
 
 - for Blanquettes ib. 
 
 - - farcis .380 
 
 - a la Poulette .. 381 
 
 - , - Cardon fashion ib. 
 
 Cutlets, Mutton, a la Sou- 
 bise . 136 
 
 -en Haricot Vierge 137 
 
 -a la Minute. ib. 
 
 -a Pllalieune .... ib. 
 
 -with puree of 
 
 Mushrooms. 138 
 
 - — en Haricot bran.. ib. 
 
 -sautez a l’Essencs 139 
 
 --— a la Maintenon ... 140 
 
 --— Veal, broiled a 
 
 l’ltalienne. 1-54 
 
 -a In Venitienne 
 
 dites aux fines Herbes.... 155 
 
 -a la Dauphine ... ib. 
 
 --Mirepoix__ ib. 
 
 .-Maintenon .. 156 
 
 _■— Chingara. ib. 
 
 .-Dreux. ib. 
 
 .-—-Chalons.... 157 
 
 -Financiere .. ib. 
 
 Dory, John .316 
 
 Boiled with Lob- 
 
 Page 
 
 Dory, John, with Lobster 
 
 Sauce. 102 
 
 -Broiled with 
 
 Anchovy and Caper 
 
 Sauce. ib. 
 
 Ducks, Wild, <fcc .280 
 
 -with Turnips .281 
 
 -- with Puree of Green 
 
 Peas.282 
 
 -■ with small Green 
 
 Peas. ib. 
 
 --— Salmi of Wild.. ... 283 
 
 -Members of, with the 
 
 Puree of Lentilles .. 284 
 
 -with Olives .. ib. 
 
 -Capilotadeof .. ib. 
 
 -with Sour-Crout.... 79 
 
 -Members of, with 
 
 French Sour-Crout .. 80 
 
 Ducklings, it la Bigarade.. 282 
 
 Dusselle, la . • 34 
 
 Eels, Miitelotte of. 296 
 
 -Tronyons of, Boiled a 
 
 laTurtare.297 
 
 -a la 
 
 Poulette .298 
 
 - Baked. ib. 
 
 -Tronyonsof, Larded and 
 
 Glazed .299 
 
 Eggs in General .353 
 
 - Omelette Aliielleuse.. ib. 
 
 - Fried.355 
 
 -au Miroir. ib. 
 
 - Poached.. ib. 
 
 ■- Fried, Poached.356 
 
 - ala Tripe .81, 356 
 
 -Maitre d’Hotel .. 356 
 
 -a PAurore. 357 
 
 -en Surprise. 82, 357 
 
 -Croquettes of. ib. 
 
 —— Andouilles of .358 
 
 -dlaNeige.413, 358 
 
 Eggs brouilles. 359 
 
 - and Bacon. ib. 
 
 -and Water Cream .... 412 
 
 -au Bouillon and re¬ 
 versed . ib. 
 
 ster Sauce 
 
 ib. 
 
 Y 
 
 Egg Sauce 
 
 8 
 
 33 
 
486 
 
 Enidve . «... 366 
 
 -with Gravy of Veal ib. 
 
 -au Veloute. ib. 
 
 -a la Franyaise .... 367 
 
 Espagnole of Game. 10 
 
 Farce oi Fowl ala Cream 117 
 
 -au Gratin of Par¬ 
 tridges, Rabbits, and Fowls 118 
 
 -of Carp . 119 
 
 -for Pies . 121 
 
 -Green Marbled .... 120 
 
 -Red Marbled. 121 
 
 -for 8a usages . 122 
 
 — -de Godiveau, for the 
 
 Pates a la Mazarine .. 120 
 Fawn, Saddle of, or Chev- 
 
 reuil. 97 
 
 First Broth . 2 
 
 -Consomme. ib. 
 
 Flounders, Miroton of, a 
 
 I’ltalienne . 316 
 
 Fowls, a la Conde . 93 
 
 ■ -a la Montmorenci .. ib. 
 
 Fowl, Entrees of. 179 
 
 -au Consomme . 180 
 
 --or gros Sel. ib. 
 
 -a la Villeroi . ib. 
 
 -Montmorenci.. 181 
 
 --Conde . 182 
 
 — ---Turque. ib. 
 
 -- Dreux. 183 
 
 -with Green Oysters 184 
 
 -- Oyster Sauce for, or 
 
 Turkey. ib. 
 
 -aux Olives. ib. 
 
 -a la Creme. 185 
 
 ---— Monglas. ib. 
 
 ~-Dubari . 186 
 
 --Mirepoix . 187 
 
 -—’Cardinal. ib. 
 
 ■ -a Campine with raw 
 
 Onions . 188 
 
 --a la Tartare . ib. 
 
 --— Chingara . 189 
 
 -with Tarragon Sauce ib. 
 
 ■-—Cauliflowers .. 190 
 
 -Cutlets of Fillets of, 
 
 wilt Crumbs of Bread, a la 
 Marechale . ib. • 
 
 Fowl, the Wings of, a la 
 
 St. Laurent . 191 
 
 - Filets of, sautes au 
 
 supreme . ib. 
 
 -Scollops of, with Cu¬ 
 cumbers . 192 
 
 -Rissoles of. 216 
 
 -Scollops of, with Es¬ 
 sence of Cucumbers. 192 
 
 -with Truffles 193 
 
 -a la Conti 
 
 with Truffles . 195 
 
 -with Puree of 
 
 Green Peas. ib. 
 
 - Fillets of, a la Chin- 
 
 gara. ib' 
 
 -Blanquette of, mar- 
 
 bree. 196 
 
 -Wings of, a la Dau¬ 
 phin . ib. 
 
 -Croquettes of, au Ve- 
 
 loute. 197 
 
 -Boudin a la Reine.. ib. 
 
 -Hachi, or minced, a 
 
 la Polonoise .... . 198 
 
 - Legs of, en Caneton 
 
 Duckling like. ib. 
 
 -en Balotine 199 
 
 -it l'Ortie.... 200 
 
 ---a la Dreux .. ib. 
 
 ---with Nouilles 81 
 
 -a la Mirepoix. 98 
 
 - Quenelles of . 115 
 
 -Farce ol, a la Creme 117 
 
 Fricassee a la Chevaliere ..219 
 
 Fromage d’Abricots .431 
 
 -- of Strawberries .. 432 
 
 - of Raspberries .. ib. 
 
 ■-of Pine Apples .. ib- 
 
 --de Pecbe, or Peach 
 
 Cheese.433 
 
 -with Orange Flow¬ 
 ers.. .. ib. 
 
 -alaVanille. ib- 
 
 -au Marasquin.... 434 
 
 -an Chocolate. ib. 
 
 ■-* au Caffe ........ ib* 
 
 Gamu, Espagnole of. 10 
 
 Gal a tine of Fat Chickens .. 224 
 
487 
 
 Page 
 
 Garbure with Brown Bread 61 
 
 Genevoise Sauce. 18 
 
 -Trout a la. 109 
 
 --- Pike a la. 106 
 
 -Sauce, Salmon 
 
 with. 101 
 
 Giblottes of Rabbits. 251 
 
 Gi.aze . 41 
 
 Godard, La. 39 
 
 Godiveau, Farce de, for the 
 Pates a la Mazarine .... 120 
 
 Grand Espagnole . 10 
 
 Gratin of Fillets of Chickens. 
 
 with Veloute.223 
 
 -Turbot 
 
 au Veloute.313 
 
 Gravy of Beef. 5 
 
 -Clarified. 8 
 
 Haddocks Boiled . 105 
 
 Ham, Westphalia, a l’Es- 
 
 sence. 94 
 
 --Receipt to make a, bet¬ 
 ter than those of West¬ 
 phalia . 49 
 
 -with Madeira. 95 
 
 - Windsor Beans .. 96 
 
 Hares and Leverets. 263 
 
 Hare en Duube .... . ib. 
 
 - Civet of, served as Soup 204 
 
 -Fillets of, with the 
 
 Blood .. 203 
 
 -en Chevreuil 267 
 
 -Pain of, Boudins of 
 
 Hares, Roasted Hares.... ib. 
 
 -Soup . 268 
 
 -Another way of 
 
 making.... 269 
 
 -Civet of .. 79 
 
 -Stuffing for, or Turkey 121 
 
 Haricot of Turkey Giblets . . 80 
 
 --Pinions .. 81 
 
 -- Vierge, Cutlets en.. 137 
 
 -Brun, Cutlets en—. 138 
 
 --Vierge . 36 
 
 - Brun . ib- 
 
 Herr i ngs, Fresh ....338 
 
 -Soft Roes of, in 
 
 Cases . . 338 
 
 Hotchepot. 42 
 
 Page 
 
 Hotchepot of Ox’s Tail .... 82 
 
 - en Haricot brun . . 83 
 
 -with Green Peas ib. 
 
 -Ox Tail in. 131 
 
 - Rib of Beef braized 
 
 en... 133 
 
 - Soup. 70 
 
 Inside Fillets, the, ii la Mare. 
 
 clmle. 140 
 
 --— - marinaded au 
 
 Chevreuil. 141 
 
 - Fillet with Puree of 
 
 Sorrell. ib. 
 
 Isinglass, the Manner of 
 
 Melting. —— 411 
 
 Italian Sauce, White . 12 
 
 -Brown . ib. 
 
 -Paste. 59 
 
 Ttalienne (P), with Truffles 48 
 
 Jellies of Fruit. 421 
 
 Jelly, Strawberry . .... 422 
 
 -Raspberry. 423 
 
 -Red Currant . ib. 
 
 -- Currant, with Rasp¬ 
 berries . ib. 
 
 -White Currant .... ib. 
 
 -- Orange . ib. 
 
 -Lemon . 424 
 
 - Mosaic . 425 
 
 - Pine Apple. 426 
 
 -Cherry .427 
 
 -and Miroton of 
 
 Peaches a I’Ude . ib. 
 
 -Calf’s Foot.... _ 428 
 
 -Madeira Wine . 429 
 
 - Macedoine de Fruit 430 
 
 Jeilies, Marbled .434 
 
 Jeleeof Meat for Pies .... 7 
 
 Julienne with consomme of 
 
 Fowl . 53 
 
 Lamb, Breast of, with Green 
 
 Peas, Brown .. ' 75 
 
 -with Peas, 
 
 While .... . ib. 
 
 --Pluck of, a la Pasca- 
 
 line . 79 
 
 - Roast Beef of. 96 
 
 Larks ttu gratin. 285 
 
 '-Caisses of ...286 
 
488 
 
 Page 
 
 Larks, Hot raised Pies of 2S6 
 
 -ea Croustade. ib. 
 
 Lazagnes au consomme .... 58 
 
 Livemoise, la. 42 
 
 Lobster .346 
 
 au veloute .. .... 347 
 
 -- Scollops of, in tbe 
 
 Shell.347 
 
 -Sauce ...... 28, 348 
 
 --Salad of. ib. 
 
 Macaroni with consomme 37 
 
 - Parmesan Cheese 74 
 
 - Timballefor .... 444 
 
 Macedoine, le . 26 
 
 Mackarel Broiled, a la 
 
 Maitre d’Hotel.....341 
 
 -— Boiled.342 
 
 -Filiets of, a la 
 
 Ste. Menhoult.. ib. 
 
 -sautez 
 
 a la Maitre d’Hotel.342 
 
 -a la 
 
 Ravigotte. 343 
 
 • -Timballe of soft 
 
 Roes of, a laSefton.... ib. 
 
 -- Soft Roes of, in 
 
 Cases . ib. 
 
 -Boiled. 104 
 
 .-Broiled. 105 
 
 Maitre d’Hotel . ... 16 
 
 -- Maigre ... ib. 
 
 Manselle, la . 48 
 
 Mayonnaise. 32 
 
 Meringues au Marasquin au 
 
 Sucre Chaud .465 
 
 Milk Soup.. 64 
 
 Mussels au Persinet, dites a 
 
 la Poulette . 348 
 
 Mutton, Breast of, 4 la 
 
 Bourgeoise. 74 
 
 -en Haricot 77 
 
 -- en Hocbe- 
 
 pot . 78 
 
 -Haricot of, a la 
 
 Bourgeoise ..;. ib. 
 
 -Leg of. Roasted .. 87 
 
 -Braized .. 88 
 
 -Saddle of, Roasted 87 
 
 Page 
 
 Mutton, Saddle of, or Roast 87 
 
 Beef de Mouton ........ 96 
 
 -Leg of. Braized, 
 
 called generally De Sept 
 
 Heures. 151 
 
 -Leg of, Farcie or 
 
 stuffed. 152 
 
 -Neck of, Boiled .. ib. 
 
 -Leg of, Boiled .. 153 
 
 -Minced, with Cu¬ 
 cumbers .. 146 
 
 -with En¬ 
 dive . ib. 
 
 -Hashed, English 
 
 Fashion . ib. 
 
 -and Lamb . 135 
 
 -Inside Fillets, a la 
 
 Marecbale . 140 
 
 ----- mari¬ 
 naded au Chevreuil. 141 
 
 -with 
 
 Puree of Sorrel . ib. 
 
 -Neck of, en Ai¬ 
 grettes . 142 
 
 —- with 
 
 Parsley. ib. 
 
 -les Carbonades, a 
 
 la Jardiniere .143 
 
 -Breasts of, a la Ste. 
 
 Menhoult. ib. 
 
 -Musette of, with 
 
 Endive. ib. 
 
 Mullet, Red. £40 
 
 Nouili.es, Les. 25 
 
 -Potage au .... 63 
 
 -Legs of Fowl, 
 
 with. 81 
 
 -in General .... 407 
 
 -Croquettes, of.. ib. 
 
 Nougat. 462 
 
 Omelette Moelleuse .... 353 
 
 -l’aux, fines Herbes 354 
 
 -Small, with Ham ib. 
 
 -Sorrel ib. 
 
 -with Kidney 
 
 of Veal. ib. 
 
 -small, with Sweet¬ 
 meats... ib. 
 
 -Souffle. 420 
 
489 
 
 Page 
 
 Orange Flower, Souffle of.. 418 
 
 Oysters .349 
 
 • - scollops of .. .. ib. 
 
 -small, Patties a la 
 
 Sefton .350 
 
 -a la 
 
 Franyaise*....... . . ib. 
 
 ■ -Sauce, (see No. 98, 
 
 page 47). ib. 
 
 -for Entrees.. 351 
 
 -Attelets, of. ib. 
 
 -Sauce for Fowl or 
 
 Turkey. 184 
 
 Ox Tail in Hochepot. 131 
 
 Panadas for Faroes in general 113 
 Pancakes, French Fashion.. 420 
 
 Pancakes. 421 
 
 Partridges, Entrees of.... 229 
 
 -whole, a PEs- 
 
 pagnole. ib. 
 
 -• young, a la 
 
 Barburie .231 
 
 -■-Montmorenci. ib. 
 
 -Dreux.232 
 
 --a la Crapaudine ib. 
 
 • -a la Givry .... ib. 
 
 -Compotte of 
 
 young, a blanc . 233 
 
 -Compotte of 
 
 young, a brun. 234 
 
 - and Cabbages 
 
 dressed. ib. 
 
 ---Saute of Fil¬ 
 lets of young, au fumet of 
 
 Game .236 
 
 —--Cutlets of young, 
 
 en Epigramme, with Truf- 
 
 fles . 237 
 
 -Saute of Fil¬ 
 lets of young, a la Sefton 238 
 
 -Croquettes, of 
 
 young. 239 
 
 -Salmi, of young 
 
 a l’Espagnole . . 240 
 
 -Souffle of, young 239 
 
 --young, a la 
 
 Monglass.241 
 
 ■ -en Sur¬ 
 
 prise. ib. 
 
 Page 
 
 Partridges, Young, Quenelles 
 
 of, au fumet...242 
 
 -Boudins 
 
 of. ib. 
 
 -Quenelles * 
 
 of, a la Sefton 
 
 -Farce a Gra¬ 
 tia of Rabbits and Fowls 118 
 Paste for Tourtes and Tarts 445 
 - Puff. ib- 
 
 - Tourte des Confitures* 
 
 Peach, Plum, Apple, Apri¬ 
 cot, <fec. &c. ib. 
 
 - Flan des Pommes .... ib. 
 
 —— Flan des Peehes.449 
 
 - Brioche.458 
 
 - Gateau de Compiegne 461 
 
 -i Baba . ib. 
 
 - Brioches au Fromage ib. 
 
 - Meringues an Maras- 
 
 quin au Sucre Chaud .... 465 
 
 - Gimblettes. ib. 
 
 - Royal, dite au Choux 467 
 
 - Les Petis Choux Pra¬ 
 lines. 468 
 
 — — Les Gimblettes, a la 
 
 d’Artois. ib. 
 
 --Pralines 469 
 
 —— Basket of Petits Choux 
 
 a la Chantilli. ib. 
 
 - Creme a la Chantilli.. 47 
 
 - Pains a la Ducbesse .. ib. 
 
 - Choux en Biscuits d its 
 
 Gateaux, a la d’Artois .... 471 
 
 - Pain de la Meque .... ib. 
 
 ■-- La Cascade, a la Chnn- 
 
 tilli .472 
 
 - for Tarts. 475 
 
 - Apple Tart, with dry.. ib. 
 
 - Almond . 476 
 
 - Tartlets of Almond .. 477 
 
 -- with Strawberries ib. 
 
 1 Tartlets of, Jam_ ib. 
 
 - Gauffres, a la Fla- 
 
 mande. 478 
 
 -Gateaux a la Madeleine 479 
 
 - Genevoise. ib. 
 
490 
 
 Page 
 
 Paste,White Gimblets of Ge- 
 
 nevoise.480 
 
 - Rose, or Green ditto.. ib. 
 
 -9 Fruit Tart, English 
 
 manner. 481 
 
 Pastry Hot arid Cold.436 
 
 -Pate Brisee . 437 
 
 - Cold Pie en Timballe 439 
 
 - to make cold and hot 
 
 Pies, either of Fowl or 
 Game, either dressed or 
 
 in Timballes . 440 
 
 - Consomme for the In- 
 
 441 
 
 442 
 
 443 
 450 
 
 b. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 side of the Cold Pie 
 - for Hot raised Pies 
 
 — Hot Water Paste 
 
 — for Entrees. 
 
 — Vol au Vent .... 
 -for Sultane 
 
 — Petits Pates of all sorts 
 - Small Timballes for all 
 
 sorts of Entrees, or for Da- 
 rioles a la Cream of every 
 flavour. 
 
 — Dariole a la Cream 
 
 Ramequins a la Sel’ton 452 
 Common Ramequins. 
 
 Cheesecakes. 
 
 French Cheesecakes . 
 
 for Entremets. 
 
 Gateaux a la Polonoise 
 Puits d’Amour, gar 
 
 nished with Jam 
 - Petites Bouchees, gar¬ 
 nished . 
 
 - Lozenges garnished 
 
 - Feuillantines Pralinees 
 
 -Gateaux a la Manon 
 
 -- Croques en bouche 
 
 - Feuillantines garnished 
 
 -- Petits Paniers, gar' 
 
 nished with Jam 
 
 -Petites Nattes, deco 
 
 rated. 
 
 -Little Cockades, gar 
 
 nished. 
 
 -Apricot Cakes, trel 
 
 lised... 
 
 451 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 453 
 i b. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 454 
 
 ib. 
 
 455 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 456 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 457 
 ib. 
 
 Page 
 
 Paste, Sweet Entremets, and 
 
 Hot.463 
 
 Pascaline, la . 46 
 
 Perch au Water Suchet .. Ill 
 
 -a la Water Fish.... 303 
 
 -plain boiled, or water 
 
 Suchet... 304 
 
 -a la Maitre d’HOtel ib. 
 
 - plain boiled, Dutch 
 
 Sauce .305 
 
 Peas, Green, in White Sauce 44 
 
 -a l’Espagnole ib. 
 
 -and Bacon. ib. 
 
 - Puree of. Green. 57 
 
 --made very green ib. 
 
 - Green, with Bacon, 
 
 French Fashion. 77 
 
 -young, or New Green 387 
 
 - French fashion. ib. 
 
 - stewed Green, with 
 
 Bacon .388 
 
 - plain boiled .389 
 
 - Green, a la Paysanne ib. 
 
 - in general. ib. 
 
 Pheasants, Salmi of a l’Es- 
 
 pagnole .287 
 
 -i roquettes of.. 288 
 
 -Hash of, a la 
 
 Polonaise. 289 
 
 -Souffle of .... ib. 
 
 -Cutlet of, au 
 
 Fumet. ib. 
 
 -Escallopes of 
 
 Fillets, with Truffles_ ib. 
 
 Pie, cold en Timballe.439 
 
 Pigeons .. 275 
 
 - Compote of, brown 276 
 
 - a la Paysanne_ ib. 
 
 - a la Crapaudice.... 277 
 
 - au Soleil . ib. 
 
 - Cutlets of, a la 
 
 D’Armagnac .278 
 
 -a la Marechale .. 279 
 
 - a la Toulouse. ib. 
 
 —- a la Financiere.... ib. 
 
 - a 1’Aspic Clair .... 280 
 
 —■- Cooked in all man¬ 
 ner of ways. ib. 
 
491 
 
 Page 
 
 Pike, a. la Polonoise.299 
 
 -with Genevoise Sauce ib. 
 
 -Dutch Sauce.300 
 
 -Baked, French way ... 301 
 
 -Sauce a Mattelote .... ib. 
 
 -Fillets of, a la Maitre 
 
 d’Hotel. 302 
 
 -Mare- 
 
 chale. ib. 
 
 - Turque 303 
 
 -a la Chambord ib. 
 
 -Boiled, wilh Dutch 
 
 Sauce. 106 
 
 -Baked. ib. 
 
 -a la Genevoise. ib. 
 
 --Polonoise . ib. 
 
 ---Chambord. 107 
 
 -au Cour Bouillon. 108 
 
 Piper, Baked, Dutch Sauce 339 
 
 - Fillets of, a la Selton ib. 
 
 -Maitre 
 
 d’Hotel. ib. 
 
 -.-Orlie 340 
 
 Plaice.316 
 
 Plovers, Capilottades of.... 275 
 
 Polonoise, la. 42 
 
 Pork, Leg of. 98 
 
 Potatoes, a la Maitre d’Ho¬ 
 tel . 382 
 
 - Fried .. .. 383 
 
 -Puree of .. ib. 
 
 --Croquettes of .. ib. 
 
 -Casserole of .. 384 
 
 -Souffle of .. ib. 
 
 -Gateau of .. 385 
 
 -—Biscuits of .. ib. 
 
 -Souffle of, with 
 
 Lemon .... ..418 
 
 Potage, consomme of Fowl 52 
 
 - a la Clermont .... ib. 
 
 - a la Julienne .... 53 
 
 - a la Reine. 60 
 
 -- with Cabbage .... 62 
 
 - aux Nouilles. 63 
 
 -au Lait d’Amande.. 64 
 
 -a la Jardiniere, or 
 
 Gardener’s Soup. 69 
 
 - a la Bouveau. 72 
 
 Page 
 
 J Potage a la RegenCi. 72 
 
 Pudding, Cabinet, or Chan¬ 
 cellor’s Pudding .414 
 
 -a la Bourgeoise .. 415 
 
 Pu rue of Sorrel . 19 
 
 -Celery. 21 
 
 -Onions or Soubise 22 
 
 -Brown and 
 
 Lyonaise .. ib. 
 
 - White Beans .... 23 
 
 -Mushrooms, White 
 
 and Brown. ib. 
 
 - Green Peas, new 
 
 and dry. 24 
 
 -- Chesnuts........ 25 
 
 -Asparagus. ib. 
 
 -Green Peas. 57 
 
 -made 
 
 very Green ........... ib. 
 
 --— Game & l’Espag- 
 
 nole. 239 
 
 Quails and Cailleteaux .... 269 
 
 -Compotte of . 270 
 
 -white .. ib. 
 
 -with Peas .. ib. 
 
 -au gratin. 271 
 
 -- a la Bourguignolte.. ib. 
 
 -a la Cmpaudine.... 272 
 
 Quenelles of Whitings .... 119 
 Rabbits, Fillets of, young, a 
 
 l’Orlie. 244 
 
 - Turban of Fillets of, 
 
 a la Sultane.245 
 
 -Mince of, au fumet 246 
 
 -Scollops of, aux Truf¬ 
 fles . 247 
 
 —- a la Conti. ib. 
 
 -Blanquette of, with 
 
 Green Peas. 248 
 
 -- Scollops of, au fumet ib. 
 
 -Scollops of, a la Conti 249 
 
 -ycung, en Friteau .. 249 
 
 -a la Venitienne.... 249 
 
 -en Caisses .250 
 
 -Giblottes of.250 
 
 -White Giblottes of.. 251 
 
 -Fillets of, young, en 
 
 lorgnettes .252 
 
492 
 
 Page 
 
 Rabbits, Hot raised Pie of.. 252 
 
 -Quenelles of ..253 
 
 -Gratinof. ib. 
 
 -Souffle of . 254 
 
 -Croquettes of.255 
 
 .-Boudins of, ala Heine ib. 
 
 -----— Riche¬ 
 lieu .. ib. 
 
 —-Pegs of, a la Mainte- 
 
 non . 256 
 
 -Rissoles of. ib. 
 
 --Boudins of, a la Lu- 
 
 cullus . 257 
 
 -Fillets of, a la Mare- 
 
 challe ... ib 
 
 _Pompadour 258 
 
 -Attereauxof, a l’lta- 
 
 lienne . >b- 
 
 -and Onions.260 
 
 -Soup . ib. 
 
 -Fillets of, a l’Ude 261 
 
 _Pie.262 
 
 -Consomme of. 4 
 
 -Quenelles of . 116 
 
 Rngoftt a la Financiere .... 30 
 
 Ravigotte, white. 15 
 
 ---a l’Ude .. 15 
 
 Remoulade, common, and 
 
 Green Remoulade. 32 
 
 Rice Soup . 58 
 
 - w ith different sorts of 
 
 puree . 
 
 -for Entrees and Entre¬ 
 
 mets . 
 
 -Casserole of .... 400 
 
 -Cassolettes of.401 
 
 -Cake. 402 
 
 -Croquettes of.403 
 
 -Souffle of. ib. 
 
 -Gratine .. 404 
 
 -Turban of . ib 
 
 -Croquettes of, with 
 
 Apricot Marmalade .... 405 
 
 -stuffed 
 
 with apples. ib. 
 
 -Souffle of Apples in a 
 
 bordure of . ib. 
 
 -Souffle of ground .... 419 
 
 Rissollesoi Sweetbread .... 169 
 
 Page 
 
 Rissoles of Fowls.216 
 
 Roux, White . 9 
 
 -Brown. ib. 
 
 Salad Sauce.337 
 
 Salmi of young Partridges a 
 
 l’Espagnole. 240 
 
 Salmon, slices of crimped, 
 with Lobster Sauce.316 
 
 -slices of crimped, 
 
 broiled with Caper Sauce ib. 
 
 -Cutlets of, sautez 
 
 a la Maltre d’Hotel .... 317 
 
 -Salad of. ib. 
 
 -- with Genevoise 
 
 Sauce ...319 
 
 -Matelotte Sauce.. ib. 
 
 - boiled, with Lobster 
 
 Sauce . 100 
 
 - Slices of, broiled 
 
 with Caper Sauce . ib. 
 
 —-crimped. ib. 
 
 with Genevoise 
 
 Sauce . 
 
 Salsifis. 
 
 -au Veloute. 
 
 -a l’Espagnole.... 
 
 -fried.. 
 
 -en Salade, or Aspic 
 
 Sauces, Broths, and Con¬ 
 sommes . .... 
 
 Sauce Tournee. . 
 
 -a l’Allemande _ 
 
 -Veloute .. 
 
 -Hachee. 
 
 -White sharp . 
 
 - Brown sharp, or 
 
 Poivree . 
 
 •-Genoese. 
 
 -a Matelotte for Fish 
 
 --En¬ 
 trees . ...... 
 
 - Apple, for Geese and 
 
 Roast Pork. .... 
 
 -d’Attelets ........ 
 
 - for Sturgeon. 
 
 -Red, Cardinal. 
 
 -- Lobster. 
 
 -a la Lucullus. 
 
 -Egg. 
 
 101 
 
 368 
 
 369 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 370 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 II 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 ib. 
 
 19 
 
 ib. 
 
 27 
 ib. 
 
 28 
 ib. 
 29 
 33 
 
493 
 
 Sauce a la Pompadour .... ib. 
 
 - Hollandoise, verte, 
 
 or Green Dutch ........ 37 
 
 --Dutch. ib. 
 
 - Blanch, or French 
 
 Melted Butter. ib. 
 
 - Salmi a l'Espagnole 40 
 
 - la Robert .. 42 
 
 -au pauvre Homme, 
 
 or poor Man’s Sauce .... 45 
 
 -— Love Apple . ib. 
 
 -a la Bigarade, or 
 
 Bitter Orange Sauce ib. 
 
 •-au Celeri. 46 
 
 -a l’Aurore. ib 
 
 - Oyster ... 47 
 
 -- a la Marecbale ... 48 
 
 Sauces, Observations relative 
 
 to the . 49 
 
 - Tarragon or Pluehe 16 
 
 - Observations relative 
 
 to all sorts of Fi-h .352 
 
 -- White Italian . 12 
 
 - Brown Italian. ib. 
 
 ■- Lobsters . 99 
 
 - Shrimp . 330 
 
 Sautez, Observations on 194 
 - of Fillets of fat Pul¬ 
 lets, a la Turque .212 
 
 - of Fillets of fat Pul¬ 
 lets sautez au supieme .. 213 
 Scollops of Calf’s Liver aux 
 
 fines Herbes .175 
 
 - with Cucumbers .. 192 
 
 • - with Essence of ditto ib. 
 
 -with Truffles. 193 
 
 - a la Conti, with Truf¬ 
 fles . 195 
 
 • - with puree of Green 
 
 Peas. ib. 
 
 - of Chicken with Truf¬ 
 fles . 210 
 
 - — of fat Pullets d. la 
 
 Conti,with Truffles ... ib. 
 
 -of Chicken a l’Es- 
 
 sence of Cucumber ... 211 
 
 • -of Rabbits au fumet 248 
 
 - ——-aux Truf¬ 
 fles, the same a la Conti 247 
 
 Page 
 
 Sea Dragon. 344 
 
 -Kale. 382 
 
 Semolina with Consomme .. 60 
 
 Sneeps Tails with puree of 
 Green Peas .. 146 
 
 -with a la Saint 
 
 Laurent .. .. 147 
 
 - Brains en Mattelotte ib. 
 
 --a la Martre 
 
 d’Hotel .. .. 148 
 
 -Trotters A la Poulette ib. 
 
 -en Canelons 149 
 
 -Fried .. ib. 
 
 -Farce .. 150 
 
 - Kidneys broiled .. ib. 
 
 -with Cham¬ 
 pagne 151 
 
 -Tongues with Tur¬ 
 nips .... . 144 
 
 -with Cab¬ 
 bage Lettuces .. ib. 
 
 -augratin.. 145 
 
 ---a la Main- 
 
 tenon .... .. ib. 
 
 Skate . . .. 345 
 
 - with Caper Sauce, 
 
 French Fashion . . 345 
 
 - au Beurre noir .. ib. 
 
 -- Plain Boiled . . ib. 
 
 -Small, Fried .... 346 
 
 -with Shrimp Sauce .. 105 
 
 Smelts .. . . 345 
 
 Soles au Water suchet .... 330 
 
 - Paupiette of Fillets of 331 
 
 - Fillets of, sautez a la 
 
 Ravigotte . ib. 
 
 ---a l’Orlie .. 332 
 
 -Timballesof, Fillets of, 
 
 a la Venitienne. ib. 
 
 -Vol au vent of Fillets 
 
 of, with Cream Sauce__ 333 
 
 -Fillets of, 4 1’Aurore.. ;b. 
 
 -a la Miromesnil.334 
 
 -Aspic and Salad of 
 
 Fillets of, with Butter of 
 
 Montpelier.335 
 
 -Croquettes of Fillets of 337 
 
 -Fillets of, a la Turque ib. 
 
 -Fried or Boiled. 103 
 
494 
 
 Page 
 
 Soles Broiled .. 133 
 
 Sorrel, puree of.‘... IP 
 
 -en maigre .. .. 20 
 
 Souffle of young Partridges 239 
 
 -of Rabbits .. .. 251 
 
 -of Cake of Tapioca 416 
 
 -for Entremets .. 418 
 
 -of Potatoes with Le¬ 
 mon .. .. ib. 
 
 -of Orange Flower., ib. 
 
 -of Ground Rice 419 
 
 — -of Bread .. ib. 
 
 -ol Coffee .. ib. 
 
 -of Chocolate ib. 
 
 -Omelette .. 420 
 
 Soup de Sante, or an Naturel 52 
 
 --; Cressi .. 53 
 
 Soupe a l’Aurore .. 54 
 
 - a l’Allemande .. 55 
 
 - a la Conde .. ib. 
 
 - Faubonne .. 56 
 
 — -Carmelite .. ib. 
 
 Soup, Rice .. 58 
 
 -Vermicelli .. 59 
 
 — German Cabbage .. 62 
 
 Soupe a la bonne Femme, or 
 
 good Lady’s Soup .. 62 
 
 -a la Borgosse .. 63 
 
 Soup, Milk, with Almond 
 Laurel .. 64 
 
 -Turtle .. 65 
 
 -Spring .. 68 
 
 -Mutton Cutlet, or Scotch 
 
 Broth .. 69 
 
 -Hockepot .. .. 70 
 
 -Mock Turtle, English 
 
 Fashion . ib. 
 
 Spinach.363 
 
 -au Consomme ib. 
 
 -with Cream .. .. 364 
 
 -French Fashion .. 365 
 
 -Croustades of .. ib. 
 
 Sturgeon. 320 
 
 -Roast .. .. ib. 
 
 -Baked .. .. ib. 
 
 -a l’Ude .. ib. 
 
 —--Blanquette of, a la 
 
 Pavsarme .321 
 
 --Blanquette of, with 
 
 Green Peas. ib. 
 
 Page 
 
 Sturgeon, Croquettes of .. 321 
 
 -Roast .. 109 
 
 --Baked .. ib. 
 
 -- Plain Boiled ib. 
 
 Su^ge, or l’Empotage ... T 
 Sugar, clarified .. 466 
 
 Sweetbread, Croquettes of.. 169 
 
 -Rissole of ... ib. 
 
 -a la Dauphin’.. 163 
 
 -Financiere 164 
 
 ■-Dreux .. ib. 
 
 --Scollops of, with 
 
 Green Peas .. 166 
 
 --Attelets of, a 
 
 l’ltalienne .. 167 
 
 -— Small Cases of 
 
 Scollops of .. 168 
 
 Sweet Entremets .. 395 
 
 Tapioca, Souffle, or Cake of 410 
 
 -gratnie -. 416 
 
 Tench...Ill, 305 
 
 -Fried .305 
 
 Tendrons of Veal a la Jar¬ 
 diniere . 171 
 
 Tendrons of Veal, with 
 Green Peas, Brown .... 172 
 
 ---w'ith 
 
 Green Peas, White. ib. 
 
 -■- with 
 
 Cabbage, Lettuce, a l’Es- 
 
 pagnole . ib. 
 
 -en 
 
 Marinade, dites au Soleil 173 
 
 —--—•-- en 
 
 Chipolata, White . ib. 
 
 - en 
 
 Chipolata, Brown . ib. 
 
 -with 
 
 the Puree of Chestnuts .. ib. 
 
 Tongue, Beef’s, Sauce hachee 128 
 
 - Miroton of, with 
 
 Turnips .. ib. 
 
 -with Sor¬ 
 rel Sauce. ib. 
 
 -witb Spi¬ 
 nach . ib. 
 
 -Red, with 
 
 mashed Turnips. 129 
 
 - Pickled, glazed, and 
 
 bigarree . ib. 
 
495 
 
 Page 
 
 Tongue,Sheep’s,with Turnips 144 
 
 * --- with Cabbage 
 
 Lettuces. ib. 
 
 • -auxGratins.. 145 
 
 -a la Mainte- 
 
 non . ib. 
 
 Toulouse, the. 40 
 
 Trout au court-bouillon .... 300 
 
 - with Genevoise Sauce ib. 
 
 - Fillets of, a l’Aurore.. ib. 
 
 - Baked...307 
 
 - plain Boiled . 307 
 
 - a la Genevoise. 109 
 
 Truffles.443 
 
 -with Champaigne 
 
 Wine .444 
 
 -a l’ltalienne . ib. 
 
 Turbot.311 
 
 -Fillets of, a la Mare- 
 
 chale . ib. 
 
 .. -a la Creme 312 
 
 -Gratin of. Fillets of, 
 
 au Veloute.313 
 
 -Vol au Vent d’Escal- 
 
 lopes de, au bon Beurre ib. 
 
 -Petites Timballes of 
 
 Fillets of, a la Venitienne 314 
 -and Lobster Sauce .. 99 
 
 -Broiled. 100 
 
 Turbotin broiled with Caper 
 
 Sauce . 315 
 
 Turnip Broth .. .. 59 
 
 Turnips with Sauce blanche 391 
 
 -glazed, Pear.fashion ib. 
 
 -the White Puree of.. 392 
 
 -the Brown Puree of ib. 
 
 -Mashed . 129 
 
 Turkey, Farm-Yard, a la 
 
 Montmorenci . 91 
 
 -and Celery Sauce .. 92 
 
 -a la Perigueux with 
 
 Truffles . ib. 
 
 --Boiled with Oyster 
 
 Sauce . 99 
 
 Turtle Soup .. 65 
 
 Veal, Loin of, roasted .... 88 
 
 -a la bechamel ib. 
 
 -a la Creme.. 89 
 
 -Tendons of, with Peas 76 
 
 Page 
 
 Veal, Loin of, en Haricots 
 
 Vierges ... . 76 
 
 -en Chipolata ib. 
 
 -Blond of, or Gravy of 
 
 Veal. 5 
 
 -Entrees of. 154 
 
 -Cutlets broiled, a l’lta¬ 
 lienne . 154 
 
 -a la Ve¬ 
 nitienne, dites aux fines 
 
 Herbs . 155 
 
 —-alaDau- 
 
 phine . ib. 
 
 --a la Mi¬ 
 repoix . ib. 
 
 -Cutlets a la Maiatenon 156 
 
 ---- Chingara ib. 
 
 -Dreux .. ib. 
 
 -.-.— Chalons.. 157 
 
 --— Finaneiere 157 
 
 Neck of, a la Cream.. ib. 
 
 ---Mirepoix 158 
 
 -Barbarie ib. 
 
 -Ste.Men- 
 
 hoult. 159 
 
 - the Fricandeau aux dif- 
 
 ferentes Purees . ib. 
 
 -the Grenadins of, with 
 
 the Puree of White Celery 162 
 
 -the Noix of, en Bedeau ib. 
 
 -- a la Bourgeoise. 163 
 
 -Sweetbread a la Dau- 
 
 phine . ib. 
 
 -Fiuan- 
 
 ciere. 164 
 
 -Dreux ib. 
 
 -Blanquettesofwith Cu¬ 
 cumbers . 165 
 
 -a la Pay- 
 
 sanne. 166 
 
 -Scollops of Sweetbread 
 
 with Green Peas .. ib. 
 
 - Scollops of a I’Ecosse 167 
 
 - Attelets of Sweetbreads 
 
 a l’ltalienne. ib. 
 
 - Small Cases of Scollops 
 
 of Sweetbreads. 168 
 
 -Tendrons of, a la Jar¬ 
 diniere . 171 
 
496 
 
 Page 
 
 Veal, Tendrons of, with Green 
 
 Peas, Brown . 172 
 
 -with Green 
 
 Peas, White. ib. 
 
 -with Cab¬ 
 bage, Lettuce, a l’Espag- 
 
 nole .. ib. 
 
 -en Mari¬ 
 nade, dites au Soleil .... 173 
 
 -—-en Chipo- 
 
 lata, White. ib. 
 
 -en Chipo- 
 
 lata. Brown. ib. 
 
 -with the 
 
 puree of Chestnuts. ib. 
 
 -les pet ites Noix d’Epau- 
 
 les de Veau, with Sorrel.. 176 
 
 -the Noix of Shoulder of, 
 
 with Endive. .... ib. 
 
 -Quenelles of . 113 
 
 Vegetables, Entremets of .. 361 
 
 -General Remarks 
 
 on. ib. 
 
 Veloute or Bechamel. 30 
 
 Neck of. 97 
 
 Venison, Haunch of. 97 
 
 Pa^e 
 
 Verd d’Epinards, or Green 
 
 Extract of Spinach. 33 
 
 -de Persil. ib. 
 
 Vermicelli a la Reine.. 39 
 
 Wasterfisch. 47 
 
 Whitings, Fried. 303, 330 
 
 - French 
 
 Fashion . 104 
 
 -— Boiled . 104 
 
 -Quenelles of .... 119 
 
 -Broiled .326 
 
 -Fillets of, a POrlie 327 
 
 -Quenelles of .... ib. 
 
 -Boudins of, a l’Ude 327 
 
 --Fillets of, Broiled 
 
 a la Maitre d’Hotel .. 328 
 
 -Paupiettes of Fil¬ 
 
 lets of. ib. 
 
 -au gratin .329 
 
 Woodcocks and Snipes...... 272 
 
 -Salmi of. ib. 
 
 -a 
 
 l’Espagnole. 273 
 
 -Crustade of Puree 
 
 of. ib. 
 
 -Salmi of, a la Lu- 
 
 cullus .274