t--'... REMARKS On feveral PARTS of 1 T A L Y, &c ; 'i art ■| ' '■ ; ..^ . 5 .'-I ' V :V'v . V. • • '•* ••• .:, V ' .i ■ .. " =.v,r • ’A! ;■ V-V : <\ 1'U: r '\j ■■ ■ ' ' * ■; . • • .%-V> V Vv I (vu' • n . . I REMARKS ON SEVERAL PARTS O F 1 T A L 7] &c. In the Years i ~ oi 3 iyoi, ijo$. Vt ?rum ergo id ejl,jtqais in caelum afcendijfet , naturamque rnundi & pulcbritudintm fi- derum perjpexifet , infuavem iUam admi- rationem ei fore, qua jucundiffima fuiffet, fi aliquem cui narraret habuijfet. Cicer. de Aniic. L O N T> O N, Printed for Jacob Ton fen, within Grays - y7OT Gate next Grays-Inn Lane. 1705-. To the Right Honourable John Lord Sommers , Baron of Evefiam. My Lord, T HERE is a Pleafure in owning Obligati¬ ons which it is an Honour to have receiv’d, but fliould I publifh any Favours A done Dedication. done me by Ybur Lordfhip, I am afraid it would look more like Vanity than Gra¬ titude. I had a very early Ambi¬ tion to recommend my felf to Your Lordfhip’s Patro¬ nage, which yet' encreas’d in me as I Travell’d through the Countries, of which I here give Your Lordlhip forne Account: For what¬ ever great Impreffions an En- ghfhman muft have of Your Lordfhip, they who have been Converfant Abroad will find ’em ffill improv’d It can’t but be obvious to them, thattho* they fee Your Lord- Dedication. fhip’s Admirers every where> they meet with very few of Your Well-wifhers at Paris or at Rome. And I could not but obferve when I pafs’d through moft of the Prote- flant Governments in Eu¬ rope^ that their Plopes or Fears for the Common Caufe rofe or fell with Your Lord- fhip’s Intereft and Authority in England. I here prefent Your Lord- fhip with the Remarks that I made in a Part of thefe my Travels; wherein, notwith- ftanding the Variety of the Subject, I am very fenfible that I offer nothing New A 2 to Dedication. to Your Lordlhip, and can have no other Ddign in this Addrefs, than to declare that I am, My LORD , Tour Lordfrifs mojl Obliged> and in oft Obedient Humble Servant> % J. Addison. PREFACE. T HERE is certainly no Place in the World 'where a Man may Travel with greater Pleafure and Advantage than in Italy. One finds fomething more particular in the Face of the Country, and more aflonijh- ing in the Works of Nature, than can he met with in any other Part of Eu¬ rope. It is the great School of Mu- Jick and Painting, and contains in it all the nohlejl Productions of Statuary and Architecture both Ancient and Mo¬ dern. It abounds with Cabinets of Cu- riofities, and vafl Collections of all Kinds of Antiquities. No other Coun¬ try in the World has fuch a Variety of Governments, that are fo different in their Conflitutions, and fo refin’d in their Politicks. There is fcarce any Part of the Nation that is not Famous in Hifiory, PREFACE. Hijlory, nor fo much as a Mountain or River that has not been the Scene of fome extraordinary Action. As there are few Men that have Talents or Opportunities for examining fo copious a Subject, one may obferve among thofe who have written on Italy, that different Authors have fucceeded befi on different forts of Curiofities. Some have been more particular in their Accounts of Pictures, Statues and Build¬ ings 5 fome have fearch'd into Libra¬ ries, Cabinets of Rarities, and Colledi- cns of Medals, as others have been wholly taken up with lnfcriptions, Ruins and Antiquities. Among the Authors of our own Country, we are obliged to the Bifhop of Salisbury, for his majlerly and uncommon Obfervations on the Religion and Governments of Italy : Laflels may be ufeful in giving us the Names of fuch Writers as have treated of the feveral States through which he pafs’d: Mr. Ray is to be valu'd for his Obfer¬ vations on the Natural Productions of the PREFACE. the Place. Monfleur Mifton has ’wrote a more correCt Account of Italy in ge¬ neral than any before him, as he parti¬ cularly Excels in the Plan of the Coun¬ try, ’which he has given us in true and lively Colours. There are Jhll feveral of thefe To- picks that are far from being exhaujled, as there are many news Subjects that a Traveller may find to employ himfelf upon. For my oven part, as 1 have taken Notice of feveral Places and An¬ tiquities that no Body elfe has fpoken of, fo, I think, I have mention d but fevo Things in common with others, that are not either fet in a nevo Light, or accompany d with different Reflections. I have taken care particularly to con- jider the feveral Paffages of the Anci¬ ent Poets, which have any Relation to the Places or Curiojities that I met ‘with: For before 1 enter’d on my Voyage I took care to refrejh my Aiemory among the Claflic Authors, and to make fuch Col¬ lections out of ’em as l might after- •wards PREFACE. wards have Occajion for. I mujl con- fefs it was not one of the leaf Enter¬ tainments that I met with in Tra¬ velling, to examine thefe feveral De¬ fections, as it were, upon the Spot, and to compare the Natural Face of the Country with the Landskips that the Poets have given us of it. However, to avoid the Confufon that might arife from a Multitude of Quotations, I have ouly cited fuch Verfes as have given us fame Image of the Place, or that have fomething elfe hefides the hare Name of it to recommend 'em. MONACO, MONA C 0, GENOA See. O N the Twelfth of December , 1699. I let out from Mar¬ seilles to Genoa in aTartane, and arriv’d late at a fniali French Port call’d CaJJis, where the next Morning we were not a little furpriz’d to fee all the Mountains a- bout the Town cover’d with Green Olive-trees,, or laid out in beautiful Gardens, that gave us a great Varie¬ ty of pleafing Prolpedts, even in the Depth of Winter. The moll uncul¬ tivated of ’em bear abundance of Iweet Plants, that rile naturally. I B pluck’d Monaco, Genoa , See. pluck’d above Five different Sorts that grew within a Yard of each other, as W ild-Time, Lavender, Rofemary, Balme and Mirtle. We were here ihown at a diftance the Defarts that have been render’d fo famous by the Penance of Mary Magdalene, who, after her Arrival with Lazarus and Jofeph of Arhnathea at Marseilles, is laid to have wept away the reft of her Life among thefe folitary Rocks and Mountains. It is fb Romantic a Scene, that it has always probably given occafion to filch Chimerical Rela¬ tions 5 for ’tis perhaps of this Place that Claudian fpeaks, in the following Defcription. Eft locus extremum pandit qua Gallia littus Oceani pratentus aquis, qua fertur U- lyfes Sanguine libato populum movijfe Silen- tim, lllic Umbramm tenui Jlridore volantum Flebilis Monaco, Genoa -, &c. Flebilis auditur quejlus • Jhnulachra co- loni Pallida defun clafque evident migrare fi- guras, &c. Cl. In. Ruf. L. r. A Place there lyes on Gallia s utrnolt Bounds, Where riling Seas inlult the Frontier Grounds. Ulyjfes here the Blood of Vidtims Hied, And rais’d the pale Alfembly of the Dead: Oft in the Winds is heard a plaintive Sound Of melancholy Gholts, that hover round The lab’ring Plow-man oft with! Horror Ipies Thin airy Shapes, that o’er the Fur¬ rows rile, (A dreadful Scene!) and skim be¬ fore his Eyes. Tknow there is nothing more un~ determin’d among the Learned than the Voyage of Ulyjfes-, fome confin- B z ing 4 Monaco , Genoa , 6cc. mg it to the Mediterranean, others extending it to the great Ocean, and others to a World of the Poet’s own making ; tho’ his Conversations with the Dead are generally Suppos’d to have been in the Narbon Gaul. Ilienkos adiit Lcejtrigonas Antiphaten- que, &c. Atque htec feu noflras interfunt cognita terras , Fabula five novum dedit his Erroribus Orbem. Tib. L. 4. El. 1. Uncertain whether, by the Winds con¬ vey’d. On real Seas to real Shores he Stray’d ; Or, by the Fable driv’n from Coafk to Coaft, In new Imaginary Worlds was loft. The next Day we again let Sail, and made the bell: of our way ’till we were forc’d, by contrary Winds, into St. Remo, a very pretty Town in the * Genoefe 5 Monaco , Genoa, &c. Genoefe Dominions. The Front to the Sea is not large, but there are a great many Houles behind it, built up the Side of the Mountain, to avoid the Winds and Vapours that come from Sea. We here law leve- ral Perlons, that in the midft of .De¬ cember had nothing over their Shoul¬ ders but their Shirts, without com¬ plaining of the Cold. It is certainly very lucky for the poorer fort to be born in a Place that is free from the greateft Inconvenience, to which thole .of our Northern Nations are lubject; and indeed without this natural Bene¬ fit of their Climates, the extream Milery and-Poverty that are in molf of the Italian Governments would be infupportable. There are at St. Remo many Plantations of Palm-trees, that don’t grow in other Parts of Italy. We fail’d from hence diredlly for Ge¬ noa, and had a fair Wind that carry’d us into the middle of the Gulf which , is very remarkable for Tempelts and B 3 Scarcity 6 Monaco , Genoa, &c. Scarcity of Fiili. It is probable one may be the Caufe of the other, whe¬ ther it be that the Fifher-men can’t employ their Art with fo much Suc- cels in fo troubled a Sea, or that the Fiih don’t care for inhabiting fuch ftormy Waters. - Atrum Defendens pifces hyemat mare - Hor. Sa. 2. li. 2 e While black with Storms the ruffled Ocean rolls. And from the Fifher’s Art defends her Finny Sholes. We were forc’d to lye in irTwo Days, and our Captain thought his Ship in fo great Danger, that he fell upon his Knees and confels’d himfelf to a Capuchin who was on Board with us. But at laft, taking the Advantage of a Side-wind, we were driv’n back in a few Hours time as far as Monaco, hue an has given us a Defcription of the Harbour 7 Monaco, Genoa-, &c. that we found fo very welcome to us, after the great Danger that we had e- O O fcap’d. Quaque fub Herculeo Sacratus nomine portus Urget rupe cava pelagus: non corns in ilium Jus habet aut Zephyr us: Solus fua lit- tora turbat Circius , & tutdprohibetJlatione Monceci. Lib. i. The winding Rocks a fpacious Harbour frame, That from the great Abides takes its Name: Fenc’d to the Weft, and to the North it lyes; But when the Winds in Southern Quar¬ ters rife. Ships, from their Anchors torn, become their fport. And fudden Tempefts rage within the Port. B 4 On Monaco, Genoa, &c. On the Promontory, where the Town of Monaco now Hands, was formerly the Temple of Hercules Monacus ,which Hill gives the Name to this fmall Prin- D cipality. Aggeribus focerAlpinis atq-, arce Monad Defcendens. - Virg. ALn. 6 . There are but Three Towns in the Dominions of the Prince of Monaco. The chief of ’em is fituate on a P v ock that runs out into the Sea, and is well fortify’d by Nature. It was formerly under the Protection of the Spaniard, but not many Years lince drove out the Spanijh Garrifon, and receiv’d a French one, which confilts at prefent of Five Hundred Men, paid and offi¬ cer'd by the French King. The Offi¬ cer that fhow’d me the Palace faid, with a "great deal of Gravity, that his Mailer and the King of France, a- midft all the Confuhons of Europe, had ever been good Friends and Al- 9 Monaco, Genoa , &c. lies, The Palace has handfom Apart¬ ments, that are many of ’em hung with Pictures of the reigning Beauties in the Court of France. But the bell of the Furniture was at Rome, where the Prince of Monaco refilled at that time A mbaflador. W e here took a little Boat to creep along the Sea-ihore as far as Genoa ; but at Savona, find¬ ing the Sea too rough, we were forc’d to make the beft of our way by Land, over very rugged Mountains and Pre¬ cipices : For this Road is much more difficult than that over Mount Cen- nis. The Genoefe are efleem’d extreamly Cunning, Induftrious, and enur’d to Hardlhip above the reft of the Itali¬ ans 5 which was like wife the Character of the old Ligurians. -And indeed ’tis no wonder, while the Barrennefs of their Country continues, that the Manners of the Inhabitants don’t change: Since there is nothing makes Men {harper, ^na lets their Hands and \Yits io Monaco , Genoa -> See. Wits more at -work than Want. The Italian Proverb {ays of the Genoefe, that they have a Sea without Filh, Land without Trees, and Men with¬ out Faith. The Character that the Latin Poets have given of ’em is not much different. Ajfuetumque malo Ligurem. Virg.G. z. The hard Ligurians, a laborious kind. - Pernix Limr. Sit. it. L. 8. o Fall aces Ligures. Auf. Eid. iz, ApenninicoLe bellato filius Ami Haud Ligurum extremus dum fallere fa¬ ta jinebant. Mn.u, Yet, like a true Ligurian , born to cheat, (At leaft while Fortune favour’d his De¬ ceit.) Vane Ligitr, frujlraque animis elate fu- Nequicquam patrias tentafli Lubricus artes. Id. Monaco, Genoa-, See. it Vain Fool and Coward, cries the lofty Maid, Caught in the Train which thou thy felf haft laid. On others pra&ife thy Ligurian Arts Thin Stratagems, and Tricks of little Hearts Are loft on me j nor flialt thou fafe retire, With vaunting Lies to thy falacious Sire. j Dryden, There are a great many beautiful Palaces handing along the Sea-fliore on both tides of Genoa , that make the Town appear much longer than it is to thole that fail by it. The City it' felf makes the nobleft Show of any in the World. The Houles are molt of ’em painted on the Outride; fo that they look extreamly gay and lively, befides that they are elteem’d the high- elt in Europe, and hand very thick together. The New-Street is a double Range of Palaces from one end to the other, built with an excellent Fancy, and fit for the greatelt Princes to inha- 12 Monaco, Genoa> &c bit. I cannot however be reconcil’d to their manner of Painting leveral of the Genoefe Houles. Figures, Per- IpeCtives, or Pieces of Hillary are cer¬ tainly very ornamental, as they are drawn on many of the Walls that would otherwile look too naked and uniform without ’em: But inltead ol thele, one often lees the Front of a Palace cover’d with painted Pillars of different Orders. If thele were lo ma¬ ny true Columns of Marble let in then- proper Architecture, they would cer¬ tainly very much adorn the Places where they Hand •> but as they are now they only ihew us that there is lomething wanting, and that the Pa- LJ lace, which without thele Counter¬ feit Pillars would be beautiful in its kind, might have been more perfeCt by the Addition of fuch as are real. The Front of the Villa Imperials, at a Mile diffance from Genoa, without a- ny thing of this Paint upon it, con- fills of a Doric and Corinthian Row of Pillar^ Monaco , Genoa-, &c. ig Pillars, and is much the handfomeld of any I there law. The Duke of Doria’s Palace has the held Outfide of any in Genoa , as that of Durazzo is the held furnilh’d within. There is one Room in the firid that is hung with Tapeldry, in which are wrought the Figures of the great Perfons that the Family has produc'd • as perhaps there is < no Houle in Europe that can iliow a longer Line of Heroes, that have Idill added for the Good of their Country. Andrew Doria has a Statue erected to him at the Entrance of the Doge’s Pa¬ lace, with the glorious Title of De¬ liverer of the Common-wealth •, and one of his Family another, that calls him its Prelerver. In the Doge’s Palace are the Rooms where the great and little Council with the Two Colleges hold their Alfemblies; but as the State of Genoa is very poor, tho’ leveral of its Members are extreamly rich, lo one may obferve infinitely more Splendor -and Magnificence in particular Perfons Houles, 14 Monaco, Genoa, &c. Houfes, than in thofe that belong to the Publick. But we find in moll of the States of Europe, that the People ihow the greateft Marks of Poverty where the Governors live in the great- eft Magnificence. The Churches are very fine, particularly that of the An¬ nunciation, which looks wonderfully beautiful in the Infide, all but one Corner of it being cover’d with Sta¬ tues, Gilding and Paint. A Man would expedl in fo very ancient a Town of Italy to find fbme confide- rable Antiquities; but all they have to ihow of this Nature is an old Rojlrum of a Roman Ship, that ftands over the Door of their Arfenal. It is not a- bove a Foot long, and perhaps would never have been thought the Beak of a Ship, had not it been found in fo probable a Place as the Haven. It is all of Iron, faihion’d at the End like a Boar’s Head; as I have feen it repre- fented on Medals, and on the Colum- na RoJIrata in Rome. I faw at Genoa 15 Monaco, Genoa , &c. Signior Miccon'is famous Collection of Shells, which, as Father Buonani the Jeluite has lince told me, is one of the bell in Italy. I know nothing more remarkable in the Govern¬ ment of Genoa than the Bank of St. George, made up of luch Branches of the Revenues as have been let a- part, and appropriated to the dis¬ charging of leveral Sums, that have been borrow’d from private Perfons during the Exigencies of the Com- mon-wealth. Whatever Inconvenien- cies the State has labour’d under, they have never entertain’d a Thought of violating the Publick Credit, or of a- lienating any Part of thele Revenues to other Dies than to what they have been thus ailign’d. The Adminiltra- tion of this Bank is for Life, and part¬ ly in the Hands of the chief Citizens, which gives ’em a great Authority in the State, and a powerful Influence over the common People. This Bank is generally thought the greatell Load on 16 Monaco, Genoa, &c. on the Genoefe , and the Managers of it have been reprelented as a lecond kind of Senate, that break the Uni¬ formity of Government, and deltroy, in fome meafure,the Fundamental Con- flitution of the State. It is however very certain that the People reap no Imall Advantages from it, as it diftri- butes the Power among more parti¬ cular Members of the Republick, and gives the Commons a Figure : So that it is no fmall Check upon the Arilto- cracy, and may be one Reafon why the Genoefe Senate carries it with greater Moderation towards their Subjects than the Venetian. It would have been well for the Republick of Genoa, if lire had fol¬ low’d the Example of her Siller of Venice, in not permitting her Nobles to make any Purchale of Lands or Houles in the Dominions of a Foreign Prince. For at prelent the Greatell a- mong the Genoefe are in part Sub¬ jects to the Monarchy of Spain, by *7 Monaco , Genoa , &c realon of their Eltatcs that lye in the Kingdom of Naples. The Spaniards Tax ’em very high upon occalion, and are fo lenfible of the Advantage this gives ’em over the Republick, that they will not fuller a Neapolitan to buy the Lands of a Gcnoefe, who mult find a Purchafer among his own Countrymen if he has a Mind to fell. For this Realon, as well as on Ac¬ count of the great Sums of Mony which the Spaniard owes the Genoefe, they are under a Necellity, at prelent, of being in the Interefh of the French , and would probably continue lo, tho’ all the other States of Italy enter’d in¬ to a League againlt ’em. Genoa is not yet fccure from a Bombardment, tho’ it is not fo expos’d as formerly; for lince the Inlult of the French they have built a Mole with lome little Ports, and have provided themlelves with long Guns and Mortars. It is eafie for thole that are llrong at Sea to bring' ’em to what Terms they C pleafe; 18 Monaco , Genoa, &c. pleale j for having but very little A- rable Land, they are forc’d to fetch all their Corn from Naples, Sicily, and other Foreign Countries; except what comes to ’em from Lombardy , which probably goes another way, whillt it furnifhes Two great Armies with Provilions. Their Fleet, that for¬ merly gain’d fo many Victories over the Saracens, Li fans, Venetians, Turks and Spaniards, that made ’em Mailers of Crete, Sardinia, Majorca, Minorca, Negrepont, Lesbos, Malta, that fettled ’em in Scio, Smyrna, Achaia, Theodo¬ ra, and leveral Towns on the Eaflern Confines of Europe, is now reduc’d to Six Gallies. When they had made an Addition of but Four new ones, the King of France lent his Orders to lupprefs them, telling the Republick at the lame time, that he knew very well how many they had Occalion for. This little Fleet lerves only to fetch ’em Wine and Corn, and to give their Ladies an Airing in the Summer lealon. Monaco, Genoa , See. feafon. The Republick of Genoa has a Crown and Scepter for its Doge, by reafon of their Conqueft of Corjica , where there was formerly a Saracen King. This indeed gives their Am- balladors a more honourable Recep¬ tion at fome Courts, but at the lame time may teach their People to have a mean Notion of their own Form of Government, and is a tacit Ac¬ knowledgment that Monarchy is the more honourable. The old Romans, on the contrary, made ufe of a very bar¬ barous kind of Politicks to inlpire their People with a Contempt of Kings, whom they treated with Infamy, and dragg’d at the Wheels of their Tri¬ umphal Chariots. C i 1 9 PA VIA, [ 2° ] TATI A, MILAN, &c. F R O M Genoa we took Guile for Milan, and by the way itopp’d at Pavia, that was once the Metro¬ polis of a Kingdom, but is at prefent a poor Town. We here law the Con¬ vent of Auflin Monks, who about Three Years ago pretended to have found out the Body of the Saint that gives the Name to their Order. King Luitprandy whole Allies are in the fame Church, brought hither the Corps, and was very induftrious to conceal it, left it might be abus’d by the bar¬ barous Nations, which at that time ravag’d 21 Pavia, Milan, &cc. ravag’d Italy. One would therefore rather wonder that it has not been found out much earlier, than that it is dilcover’d at laft. The Fathers however don’t yet find their Account in the Difcovery they have made ^ for there are Canons Regular, who have half the fame Church in their Hands, that will by no means allow it to be the Body of the Saint, nor is it yet recognis’d by the Pope. The Monks lay for themlelves, that the ve¬ ry Name was written on the Urn where the Aihes lay, and that in an old Record of the Convent, they are laid to have been interr’d between the very Wall and the Altar where they were taken up. They have already too, as the Monks told us, begun to juftifie themlelves by Miracles. At the Corner of one of the Cloifters of this Convent are bury’d the Duke of Suffolk, and the Duke of Lorrain, that were both kill’d in the Famous Battel of Pavia. Their Monument C 3 was 22 Pavia, Milan > See. was erected to ’em by one Charles Parker, an Ecclefiaftic, as I learn’d from the Inicription, which I can’t omit Tranfcribing, fince I have not feen it Printed. Capo a Milite Ccefareo Francifco I. Gallorum Rege in agro Papienfi An¬ no 15 2.5. 2.3. Feh. inter alios proce- res qui ex fuis in preelio occifi funt oc- cuhuerunt duo Illufirijfmi principes Francifcus Dux Lotharingi Smooth and untroubl’d the Ticinus hows, And through the Cryftal Stream the iliining Bottom fhows: Scarce can the Sight difeover if it moves; So wondrous flow amidfl: the l'hady Groves, And tuneful Birds that warble on its Sides, Within its gloomy Banks the Limpid Liquor glides. The ii ^5 z 6 Pavia, Milan, &c A Poet of another Nation would not have dwelt fo long upon the Clearnefs and Tranfparency of the Stream, but in Italy one feldom fees a River that is extreamly bright and limpid, moft of ’em falling down from the Mountains, that make their Wa¬ ters very troubled and muddy, wheie- as the Teftn is only an Out-let of that vaft Lake, which the Italians now call the Lago Maggiore. 1 faw between Pa^ia and Afolan the Convent of Carthufians that is very fpacious and beautiful. 1 heir Church is extreamly fine, and curioufly a- dorn’d, but of a Gothic Structure. I could not Hay long in Milan without going to fee the Great Church that I had heard fo much of, but was never more deceiv’d in my Expecta¬ tion than at my firft entering: For the Front, which was all I had leen of the Outfide, is not half finifh d, and the Infide is fo fmutted with Dull, and the Smoak of Lamps, that nei- 27 Pavia, Milan, 6cc ther the Marble, nor the Silver, nor Brals-Works Ihow themlelves to an Advantage. This vail Gothic Pile of Building is all of Marble, except the Roof, which would have been of the lame Matter with the reft, had not its Weight render’d it improper for that part of the Building. But for the Realon I have juft now menti¬ on’d, the Outlide of the Church looks much whiter and frefner than the In- lide; for where the Marble is fo of¬ ten wafh’d with Rains, it preferves it fell more beautiful and unfully’d, than in thole Parts that are not I at all expos’d to the Weather. That Side of the Church indeed, which faces the Tramontane Wind, is much more unlightly than the reft, by rea- fon of the Dull and Smoak that are driven againft it. This Profusion of Marble, tho’ aftonilhing to Strangers, is not very wonderful in a Country that has lo many Veins of it within its Bowels. But tho’ the Stones are cheap. s 8 Pavia-, Milan , &c. cheap, the working of ’em is very expenlive. It is generally laid there are Eleven Thoufand Statues about the Church, but they reckon into the Account every particular Figure in the Hiftory-pieces, and feveral little Images that make up the Equipage of thole that are larger. There are in¬ deed a great Multitude of fuch as are bigger than the Life: I reckon’d a- bove Two Hundred and Fifty on the Outilde of the Church, tho’ I only told Three Sides of it; and thele are not half lo thick let as they intend ’em. The Statues ’are all of Marble, and ge¬ nerally well cut; but the mod valu¬ able one they have is a ^.Bartholomew, new-flead, with his Skin hanging o’er his Shoulders: It is efteem’d worth its weight in Gold: They have in- ftrib’d this Verle on the Pedeftal, to fhow the Value they have for the Workman. Non me Praxiteles fed Marcus finxit Agratt. Left Pavia, Milan, &c. Left at the Sculptor doubtfully you guefs, ’Tis Marc Agrati, not Praxiteles. There is, juft before the Entrance of the Quire, a little Subterraneous Chappel, Dedicated to St. Charles Bor - romee, where I law his Body, in Epifi copal Robes, lying upon the Altar in a Cafe of Rock-Cryftal. His Chap- pel is adorn’d with abundance of Silver Work: He was but Two and Twen¬ ty Years old when he was chofen Arch- | Biihop of Milan, and Forty Six at his Death; but made fo good ufe of Co jiliort a time, by his Works of Chari¬ ty and Munificence, that his Coun¬ trymen blefs his Memory, which is ftill h'dli anions; ’em. He was Ca- nonis’d about a Hundred Years ago, and indeed if this Honour were due ■to any Man, I think fuch Publick pirited Virtues may lay a jufter Claim to it, than a four Retreat from Man¬ kind, a fiery Zeal again It Heterodoxies , t a 2 9 30 Pavia , Milan, &c. a Set of Chimerical Vifions, or of Whim heal Penances, that are gene¬ rally the Qualifications of Roman Saints. Miracles indeed are requir’d of all that afpire to this Dignity, becaufe they fay an Hypocrite may imitate a Saint in all other Particulars, and thefe they attribute in great Number, to him I am fpeaking of. His Merit, and the Importunity of his Country¬ men, procur’d his Canonization be¬ fore the ordinary time ; for ’tis the Policy of the Roman Church not to allow this Honour, ordinarily, ’till Fifty Years after the Death of the Per- Ibn that is a Candidate for it •, in which time it may be fuppos’d that all his Contemporaries will be worn out, that could contradict a pretended Mi¬ racle, or remember any Infirmity of the Saint. One would wonder that Roman Catholicks, who are for this kind of Worfhip, don’t generally ad- drefs themfelves to the Holy Apoltles, ■who have a more unqueftionable Right to Pavia-, Milan , &c. to the Title of Saints than thofe of a Modem Date •, but thefe are at pre¬ lent quite out of Fafhion in Italy , where there is foarce a great Town, that does not pay its Devotions in a more particular manner to fome one of their own making. This renders it very folpicious, that the Interells of Particular Families, Religious Or¬ ders, Convents or Churches, have too great a Sway in their Canoniza¬ tions. When 1 was at Milan I law a Book newly publifn’d, that was De¬ dicated to the prelent Head of the Borromean Family, and entitl’d, A Difcourfe on the Humility ofjefus Chrijl, and of St. Charles Borromee. The Great Church of Milan has Two Noble Pulpits of Brals, each of ’em running round a large Pillar, like a Gallery, and fupported by huge Fi¬ gures of the lame Metal. The Hifto- ry of our Saviour, or rather of the Blelfed Virgin, (for it begins with her Birth, and ends with her Coronation in 32 Paw, Milan-, &c. in Heaven, that of our Saviour com¬ ing in by way of Epifode) is finely cut in Marble by Andrew Biffy. This Church is very Rich in Relicks, which run up as high as Daniel, Jonas and Abraham. Among the refl they fhow a Fragment of our Countryman Becket, as indeed there are very few Trealuries of Relicks in Italy that have not a Tooth or a Bone of this Saint. It would be endlefi to count up the Riches of Silver, Gold, and Precious Stones, that are amals’d together in this and feveral other Churches of Milan. I was told, that in Milan there are Sixty Convents of Women, Eighty of Men, and Two Hundred Churches. At the Celejlines is a Px- dture in Frefco of the Marriage of Cana, very much efteem’d} but the Painter, whether designedly or not, has put Six Fingers to the Hand of one of the Figures: They lliow the Gates of a Church that St. Ambrofe fhut againft the Emperor Theodojius, as 33 ’ Pavia-, Milan, &c. as thinking him unlit to aHilt at Divine Service, ’till he had done fome extraordinary Penance for his barbarous Maffacring the Inhabitants of Theffalonica. The Emperor was however fo far from being dilpleas’d with the Behaviour of the Saint, that at his Death he committed to him the Education of his Children. Several have pick’d Splinters of Wood out of the Gates for Relicks : There is a lit¬ tle Chappel lately re-edify’d, where the lame Saint baptis’d St. Aujlin. An Inlcription on the Wall of it lays, that it was in this Chappel, and on this Occafion, that he firft lung his Te Deum, and that his great Convert anfwer’d him Verle by Verle. In one of the Churches I law a Pulpit and Confeflional, very finely In-laid with Lapis-Lazuli, and leveral kinds of Marble, by a Father of the Convent. It is very lucky for a Religious, who has fo much Time on his Hands, to be able to amufe himlelf with Works D of Pavia , Milan , &c. of this Nature j and one often finds particular Members of Convents, that have excellent Mechanical Genius’s, and divert themlelves, at leifure Hours, with Painting, Sculpture, Ar¬ chitecture, Gardening, and feveral kinds of Handy-Crafts. Since I have mention’d Confeilionals, I fhall let down here lome Inlcriptions that l have leen over ’em in Roman-Catholick Countries, which are all Texts of Scri¬ pture, and regard either the Penitent or the Father. Abi, Ojlende Te ad Sa- cerdotem - Ne taceat papilla oculi Tut - lbo ad patrem meum & dicam, Pater peccavi - Soluta erunt in Pa¬ lis - Redi Anima mea in Requiem tuam - Vade, & ne deinceps pec- ca - Qui vos audit me audit - Venite ad me omnes qui fatigati ejlis & oner at i - Corripiet me jujlus in mifericordid - Vide ft via Iniquita-' tis in me ejl & deduc me in via (Ster¬ na - Ut audiret gemitus compedito- rum. I law the Ambrojlan Library, where, Pavia> Milan , &c. where, to fhow the Italian Genius, they have fpent more Mony on Pi¬ ctures than on Books, Among the Heads of feveral learned Men I met with no Englijhman, except BifhopFi/2w, whom Henry the Eighth put to Death for not owning his Supremacy. Books are indeed the leaft part of the Fur¬ niture that one ordinarily goes to fee in an Italian Library, which they ge¬ nerally let off with Pictures, Statues, and other Ornaments, where they can afford ’em, after the Example of the old Greeks and Romans. - pj ena omnia gypfo Chryfippi Invetiias: nam perfectijfitnus horum Si quis Arijlotelem Similem &c. this way, are for recommending them^ {elves to thole they Gonverfe with by their Gravity and Wifdom. In Spain therefore, where there are fewer Liber¬ ties of this Nature allow’d, there is Ibmething Hill more lerious and com¬ pos’d in the manner of the Inhabi¬ tants. But as Mirth is more apt to make Prolelytes than Melancholy, it is oblerv’d that the Italians have ma¬ ny of ’em for thefe late Years given very far into the Modes and Freedoms of the French ■, which prevail more or lefs in the Courts of Italy, as they lye at a {mailer or greater Diftance from France. It may be here worth while to confider how it comes to pals, that the Common People of I- taly have in general fb very great an Averfion to the French, which every Traveller can not but be lenhble of that has pals’d thro’ the Country. The moft obvious Reafon is cer¬ tainly the great Difference that there is in the Humours and Manners of Pavia, Milan, See. of the Two Nations, which always weighs more with the meaner fort, who are not able to vancjuilh the Pre¬ judices of Education, than with the Nobility. Befides, that the French Humour, in regard of the Liberties they take in Female Conversions, and their great Ambition to Excel in all Companies, is in a more particu¬ lar manner very Cocking to the Ita¬ lians, that are naturally Jealous, and value themfelves upon their great Wifdom. At the fame time the com¬ mon People of Italy , who run more into News and Politicks than thofe of other Countries, have all of ’em fome- thing to exafperate ’em againft the King of France. The Savoyards, not- withflanding the prefont Inclinations of their Court, can’t forbear Curling him for the infinite Mifohiefs that he did ’em in the laft War. The Milanefe and Neapolitans remember the many Infults that he has offer’d to the Houfo of Au- firia, and particularly to their Deceas’d King, 47 Paw, Milan , &c King, for whom they foil retain a natural kind of Honour and Affection. The Genoefe mult always relent at their Hearts his Treatment of their Doge, and his Bombarding their City. The Venetians will tell you of his Leagues with the Turks $ and the Romans, of his Threats to Pope Innocent the Ele¬ venth, whofe Memory they adore. It is true, the Intereft of State, and Change of Circumffonces, may have Iweeten'd thele Reflections to the Po¬ liter fort, but Impreflions are not lo eafily worn out of the Minds of the Vulgar: That however, which I take to be the Principal Motive among moft of the Italians, for their favour¬ ing the Germans above the French, is this, that they are entirely perfuaded it is for the Intereft of Italy, to have Milan and Naples rather in the Hands of the firlt than of the other. One may fometimes oblerve, that the Body of a People has jufter Views for the Pub - lick Good, and purfues ’em with greater Up- Pavia, Milan , &c. Uprightnels than the Nobility and Gentry, who have lo many private Expectations and particular Incereits, that hang like a talle Biafs upon their Judgments, and may polfibly dilpole 'em to lacrifke the Good of their Country to the Advancement of their own Fortunes; whereas the grols of the People can have no other ProlpeCt in Changes and Revolutions than of Publick Bleihngs, that are to diffufe them (elves thro’ the whole State in ge¬ neral. To return to Milan : I lhall here let down the Delcription that Aufonius has given of it, among the reft of his great Cities, Et Mediolani mira omnia , copia rerum: Innumerce cultceque domus , facunda Verona } Padua y Pictures about the Town by the fame Hand. A Stranger is always iliown the Tomb of Pope Lucius, who lyes bury’d in the Dome. I law in the fame Church a Monument erefted by the Publick to one of their Biihops, the Inlcription lays, that there was be¬ tween him and his God, Sunrna Ne- cejjitudo, Summa Similitudo. The I- talian Tombftones are often more ex¬ travagant than thole of other Coun- tries, as the Nation is more given to Compliment and Hyperbole. From Verona to Padua we travell’d thro’ a very plealant Country: It is planted thick with Rows of White Mulberry- trees, that furnith Food for great Quan¬ tities of Silk-worms with their Leaves, as the Swine and Poultry conlume the Fruit. The Trees themlelves lerve, at the lame time, as lo many Stays for their Vines, that hang all along like Ropes from Tree to Tree. Between the leveral Ranges lye Fields of Corn, that in thele warm Countries Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 61 ripens much better among the Mul¬ berry Shades, than if it were ex¬ pos’d to the open Sun. This was one Reafon why the Inhabitants of this Country, when I pafs’d thro’ it, were I extreamly apprehenhve of feeing Lorn- J hardy the Seat of War, which muff have made miferable Havock among their Plantations; for ’tis not here as in the Corn Fields of Flanders , where the whole Product of the Place rifes from Year to Year. We arriv’d fo late at Vicenza, that we had not time to take a full Sight of the Place. The next Day brought us to Padua. St. An¬ thony, who liv d about Five Ffundred Years ago, is the great Saint to whom they here pay their Devotions. He lyes bury’d in the Church that is De¬ dicated to him at prefent, tho’ it was formerly Confecrated to the Blefled Virgin, which is extreamly magnifi¬ cent, and*very richly adorn’d. There are narrow Clefts in the Monument that ftands over him, where good Ca- tholicks t>2 Brefcia , Verona, Padua. tholicks rub their Beads, and fmeil his Bones, which they fay have in ’em a natural Perfume, tho’ very like Apo¬ plectic Balfbm; and what would make one fufpedt that they rub the Marble with it, it is obferv’d that the Scent is ftronger in the Morning than at Night. There are abundance of In- fcnptions and Pictures hung up by his Votaries in feveral Parts of the Church : For ’tis the way of thofe that are in any Signal Danger to implore his Aid, and if they come off fafe they call their Deliverance a Miracle, and per¬ haps hang up the Picture or Defcrip- tion of it in the Church. This fpoils the Beauty of feveral Roman Catholick Churches, and often covers the Walls with wretched Daubings, impertinent Infcriptions, Hands, Legs, and Arms of Wax, with a Thoufand idle Offer¬ ings of the fame Nature. They fell at Padua the Life of St. Anthony, that is read with great Devotion ■, the moil remarkable Part of Brefcia , Verona-, Padua. 63 of it is his Dilcourle to an Aflembly of Fifh. As the Audience and Ser¬ mon are both very extraordinary, I will let down the whole Paflage at length. Non curando gli Heretici il fuo par- lare, egli fi come era alia riva del ma¬ re, dove sbocca il fiume Marecchia, chiamo da parte di Dio li pefci, che rveniffero a fentir la fua fanta parola. Et ecco che di fubito fopra l’ deque nuotando gran moltitudine di varii, & diver ft pefci, e del mare, e del fiume, fi unirono tutti, fiecondo le fpecie loro, e con hell or dine, qua ft che di ragion capaci fiati fojfero, attenti, e cheti con gratiofo Jpettacolo s’accommodaro per fentir la parola di Dio. Cib veduto il fanto entro al cuor fuo di dolcezza fiillandofi, & per altretanta maraviglia inarcando le ciglia, della ohedientia di quefie irragionevoli creature cost co¬ rn incio loro a parlare. Se bene in tutte le cofe create ( cari, & amati pefci ) fi fcuopre la potenza, & providenza infinite 64 Brefcia, Verona , Padua. infinita di Dio, come nel Cielo, nel Sole, nella Luna, nelle Jlelle, in quejo mon~ do inferiore, nell huomo, e nelle altre creature perfette, nondimeno in Voi par - ticolarmente lampeggia e rifplende la bontd della maejld divina 5 perche fe bene Jiete chiamafi Rettili, mezzi frd pietre, e bruti, confinati nelli profondi abijji delle ondeggiante acque : agitati fempre da fiutti: nwjji fempre da pro- celle 5 fordi aT udire, mutoli al parlare, & horridi al vedere , con tutto cib in Voi maravigliofament e ft fcorge la Di¬ vina grandezza, e da voi ji cavano li maggiori mijlerii della bontd di Dio, ne mai Ji parla di voi nella Scrittura Sacra, che non vi Jia afcojlo qualche profondo Sacramento j Credete voi, che jia fenza grandijjimo mijlerio, che il primo dono fatto dall onnipotente Iddio all huomo fojfe di voi Pefci ? Credete voi che non Jia miferio in quefio, che di tutte le creature, e di tutti giant - Mali Ji Jen fatti facrificii, eccetto, che di voi Pefci ? Credete, che non vi Brefcia, Verona, Padua. 65 fia qualche fecreto in quejlo y che Chri- jio nojlro falvatore dull ’ agnelo pafqua- le in poi y ji compiacque tanto del cibo di n uoi pejci ? Credete y che Jia d cafo queJlo y che dovendo il Redentor del mondo y pagar y come huomo y il ccnfo d Cefare la volejfe trovare nella bocca di un pefce ? Tutti y tutti fono mijleri e Sacramenti: percib jiete particolarmen - te obligati a lodare il njojlro Creatore: amati pefci di Dio hanjete ricevuto r ejfere y la a Sita y il moto y el fenfo\ per Jfanza vi hd dato il liquido elemento dell * Acqua y fecondo che alia Padua. ££ that may be beneficial to you, and ££ avoiding every thing that may be ££ hurtful; you are carry’d on by a “ hidden Inftinht to preferve your “ felves, and to propagate your Spe- £C cies; you obey, in all your Ahbions, £C Works and Motions, the Dictates “ and Suggeltions of Nature, without ££ the leail Repugnancy or Contra- ££ diftion. ££ The Colds of Winter, and the ££ Heats of Summer, are equally inea- £C pable of molefting you. A ferene or ££ a clouded Sky are indifferent to £C you. Let the Earth abound in ££ Fruits, or be curs’d with Scarcity, £C it has no Influence on your Wel- cc fare. You live fecure in Rains and ££ Thunders, Lightnings and’ Earth- £C quakes; you have no Concern in ££ the Blofloms of Spring, or in the ££ Glowings of Summer, in the Fruits ££ of Autumn, or in the Frofts of Win- cc ter> You are not folicitous about ? £ Hours or Days, Months or Years $ ££ the Brefcia, Verona , Padua, “ the Variablenefs of the Weather, or tc the Change of Seafons. cc In what dreadful Majefty, in cc what wonderful Power, in what a- “ mazing Providence did God Al- Padua. 75 1 could not forbear letting; down the Tides given to St. Antony in one of the Tables that hangs up to him, as a Token of Gratitude from a poor Pealant, who fancy’d the Saint had lav’d him from breaking his Neck. SacratiJJimi pujionis Bethlehemitici Lilio candidiori Delicto, Serapbidtm foil fulgidijjimo, Celjijjlvto faerie fapientia tholo, Prodigiormn patratori Potentijjimo, Mortis, Erroris, Calamitatis, Lepra, Da- [monis, Difpenfatori, c err eel ori, Liberatori, cu- \ratori, fugatori, SanBo, fapienti, Pio, potenti, tremendo, ALgrotorum & Natifragantium Sahatori Prafentijjimo tutijjimo. Membronm rejlitutori, vinculorum con- [ fraBori, Rerum per dit arum Inventori jlupendo, Periculorum omnium profligatori Magno, Mirabili, Ter San&o, An- j 6 Brefcia, Verona, Padua. Antonio Paduano, Pientiffimo pojl Peum ejufque Virgine- [,am matrem ProteUori & Sofpitori fuo, Sec. The Cuftom of hanging up Limbs in Wax, as well as Pictures, is cer¬ tainly deriv’d from the old Heathens, that us’d, upon their Recovery, to make an Offering in Wood, Metal or Clay, of the Part that had been afflicted with a Diftemper, to the Deity that had deliver’d them. I have (een, I believe, every Limb of a Human Body figur’d in Iron or Clay, that were formerly made on this Occafion, among the leveral Col- ledtions of Antiquities that have been fliown me in Italy. The Church of St. JuJlina, defign’d by Palladio , is the moft handfom, luminous, dif- encumber’d Building in the Infide that I have ever leen, and is efteem’d by many Artifts one of the fineft Works in Italy. The long Nef con- Brejcia , Verona, Padua. lifts of a Row of Five Cupola’s, the crofs one has on each fide a Angle Cupola deeper and broader than the others. The Martyrdom of St. Ju- ftina hangs over the Altar, and is a Piece of Paul Veronefe. In the great Town-Hall of Padua ftands a Stone luperlcrib’d Laps Vituprii. Any Debtor that will fwear himlelf not worth Five Pound, and is\fet by the Bailifs thrice with his bare Buttocks on this Stone in a full Hall, clears himlelf of any farther Prolecution from his Creditors-, but this is a Punilh- ment that no Body has fubmitted to thele Four and Twenty Years. The Univerlity of Padua is of late much more reform’d than it was for¬ merly, tho’ it is not yet fafe walking the Streets after Sun-let. There is at Padua a Manufacture of Cloth, that has brought very great Revenues in¬ to the Republick. At prelent the Englijh have not only gain’d upon the Venetians in the Levant, which us’d chiefly 77 . y8 Brefcia , Verona , Padua. chiefly to be fupply’d from this Ma¬ nufacture, but have great Quantities of their Cloth in Venice it feif few of: the Nobility wearing any other fort, notwithftanding the Magiftrate of the Pomps is oblig’d by his Office to fee that no Body wears the Cloth of another Country. Our Merchants indeed are forc’d to make ufe of fome Artifice to get thefe Prohibited Goods into Port. What they here fhow for the Afhes of Livy and Anterior is al¬ together groundlefs. Antenors Tomb put me in Mind of the latter part of Virgil's Defcrip- tion, that gives us the Original of Padua. Anterior potuit mediis elapfus Ac hi vis lllyncos penetrar e Simis>at Encumber’d in the Mud, their Oars divide With heavy Stroaks the thick unweildy Tide. Accordingly the old Geographers repreient it as fi mated among Marihes and Shallows. The Place which is lliown for the Haven, is on a Level with the Town, and has probably been flopp’d up by the great Heaps of Dirt that the Sea has thrown into it; for all the Soil on that bde of Ravenna has been left there infenfihly by the Sea’s diflharging it felf upon it for fo ma¬ ny Ages. The Ground muft have been Ferrara , Ravenna, Rimini. 119 been formerly much lower, for other- wife the Town would have Jain un¬ der Water. The Remains of the Pharos, that ftand about Three Miles from the Sea, and Two from the Town, have their Foundations cover’d with Earth for fome Yards, as they told me, that notwithstanding are upon a Level with the Fields that lye about ’em, tho’ ’tis probable they took the Advantage of a rihng Ground to fet it upon. It was a fquare Tower of about Twelve Yards in Breadth, as ap¬ pears by that part of it which yet re¬ mains entire, fo that its Eleight muff have been very conhderable to have preferv’d a Proportion. It is made in the Form of the Venetian Campanello, and is probably the high Tower men¬ tion’d by Pliny, Lib. 36. cap. u. On the fide of the Town, where the Sea is fjppos’d to have lain for¬ merly, there is now a little Church call’d the Retonda. At the Entrance of it are Two Stones, the one with I 4 an iso Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. an Infcription in Gothic Chandlers, that has nothing in it remarkable ; the o- ther is a fquare Piece of Marble, that by the Infcription appears ancient, and by the Ornaments about it fhows it felt to have been a little Pagan Mo¬ nument of Two Perfons that were Shipwreck’d, perhaps in the Place where now their Monument Hands. The firft Line and a half, that tells their Names and Families in Profe, is not legible; the reft runs thus, —Ranice domus hos produxit alumnos , Lihertatis opus coutulit una Dies. Naufraga mors pariter rapuit quosjunxe- [rat anti, Et duplices luce us mors per iniqua [dedit. Both with the fame Indulgent Mafter blefs’d. On the fame Day their Liberty pof- fels’d: Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini A Shipwreck flew whom it had join’d before. And left their common Friends their Fun’rals to deplore. There is a Turn in the Third Verfe that we lofe by not knowing the Cir- cumftances of their Stoty. It was the Naufraga mors that deftroy’d ’em, as it had formerly united ’em; what this Union was is expreis’d in the preceding Verfe, by their both having been made Free-men on the fame Day. If therefore we fuppofe they had been formerly Shipwreck’d with their Mafler, and that he made ’em Free at the fame time, the Epigram is unriddled. Nor is this Interpretation perhaps fo forc’d as it may feern at firft fight, fince it was the Cuftom of theMafters, a little before their Death, I to give their Slaves their Freedom, if they had deferv’d it at their Hands $ and it is natural enough to fuppofe one, that was engag’d in a common Shipwreck, 121 122 Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. Shipwreck, would give fuch of his Slaves their Liberty, as fhould have the good Luck to lave themfelves. The Chancel of this Church is vaulted with a fingle Stone of Four Foot in Thicknefs, and a Hundred and Four¬ teen in Circumference. There flood on the Outfide of this little Cupola a great Tomb of Porphyry,and the Statues ofthe Twelve Apoflles •, but in the War that Louis the Twelfth made on Italy, the Tomb was broken in pieces by a Cannon-Ball. ’Twas, perhaps, the fame Blow that made the Flaw in the Cupola, tho’ the Inhabitants fay it was crack’d by Thunder, that deflroy’d a Son of one of their Gothic Princes, who had taken Shelter under it, as having been foretold what kind of Death he was to die. I ask’d an Ab¬ bot, that was in the Church, what was the Name of this Gothic Prince, who, after a little Recollection, an- fwer’d me. That he could not tell pre- cifely, but that he thought ’twas one Ferrara, Ravenna , Rimini. 123 Julius Cafar. There is a Convent of Theatins, where they lhow a little Win¬ dow in the Church, thro’ which the Holy Ghoft is laid to have enter’d in the Shape of a Dove, and to have fettled on one of the Candidates for the Bifhoprick. The Dove is repre- fented in the Window, and in fevcral Places of the Church, and is in great Reputation all over Italy. I fliould not indeed think it impofhble for a Pigeon to fly in accidentally thro’ the Rooh where they ftill keep the Hole open, and by its fluttering o’er fuch a particular Place, to give fo fuperfti- tious an Aflembly an Occafion of fa¬ vouring a Competitor, efpecially if he had many Friends among the Electors that would make a politick u Cc of fuch an Accident: But they pretend the Miracle has happen’d more than once. Among the Pictures of feveral Famous Men of their Order, there is one with this Infcripdon. P. D. Tho¬ mas Gouldvellus Ep. Af' s Trid m conci¬ lia I24 Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini Ho contra Raereticos & in Anglia con¬ tra Elijabet. Fidci Confejfor conjpicms. The Statue of Alexander the Seventh hands in the large Square of the Town j it is call in Brals, and has the Pollure that is always given the Figure of a Pope; an Arm extended, and blefling the People. In another Square on a high Pillar is let the Sta¬ tue of the blefled Virgin, array’d like a Queen, with a Scepter in her Hand, and a Crown upon her Head j for having deliver’d the Town from a rasing Peftilence. The Cuftom of Crowning the Holy Virgin is Co much in Vogue among the Italians, that one often lees in their Churches a lit¬ tle Tmlel Crown, or perhaps a Cir¬ cle of Stars glew’d to the Canvas o- ver the Head of the Figure, which fometimes Ipoils a good Pi&ure. In the Convent of Benediffins I law Three huge Chefts of Marble with no Inlcription on ’em that I could find, tho’ they arc laid to contain the Alhes Ferrara , Ravenna, Rimini 215 Allies of Valentinian, Honorius, and his Sifter Placidia. From Ravenna I came to Rimini, having pafs’d the Ru¬ bicon by the way. This River is not fo very contemptible as it is general¬ ly reprefented, and was much in¬ creas’d by the melting of the Snows when Ccefar pais’d it, according to Lu¬ can. Fonte cadit modico parvifque impellitur undis Puniceus Rubicon, cum fervid a canduit ajlas : Perque imas ferpit valles, & Gallica certus Limes ab Aufoniis dijlefminat arva co¬ lon! s : Tunc vires prabebat Hyems, atque auxe- rat undas Tertia jam gravido pluvialis Cyathia cornu, Et madidis Euri refoluu flatibus Al- While 126 Ferrara , Ravenna > Rimini. While Summer Lifts, the Streams of Rubicon From their {pent Source in a filial! Current run. Hid in the winding Vales they gently glide. And Italy {tom neighb’ring GW divide; But now, withWinter Storms encreas’d, they role. By wat’ry Moons produc’d, and Alpine Snows, That melting on the hoary Mountains lay. And in warm Eaftern Winds dilfolv’d away. This River is now call’d Pifatello Rimini has nothing at prelent to boaft of. Its Antiquities are as fol¬ low : A Marble Bridge of Five Arches, built by Augujlus and Tiberius, for the Inlcripnon is Hill legible, tho’ not rightly tranlcrib d by Gruter. A Tri¬ umphal Arch rais’d to Augujlus, that makes a Noble Gate to the Town, tho’ Ferrara-, Ravenna-, Rimini, i tho’ part of it is ruin’d. The Ruins of an Amphitheater. The Suggejlum , on which it is laid that Julius Cafar harangu’d his Army after having pals’d the Rubicon. I muft confels I can by no means look on this la it as Authen- tick: It is built of hewn Stone, like the Pedeftal of a Pillar, but fomething higher than ordinary, and is but juft broad enough for one Man to (land upon it. On the contrary, the ahci- ent Suggejliums, as I have often ob~ lerv’d on Medals, as well as on Con- jlantines Arch, were made of Wood like a little kind of Stage, or Bulk of a Shop, for the Heads of the Nails are fometimes reprelented, that are fuppos’d to have faften’d the Boards together. We often lee on ’em the Emperor, and Two or Three General (Officers, fometimes fitting and fome¬ times Handing, as they made Speeches, or diftributed a Congiary to the Sol¬ diers or People. They were probably always in readinels, and carry’d among 128 Ferrara? Ravenna, Rimini. the Baggage of the Army, whereas this at Rimini rauft have been built on the Place, and requir d feme time be¬ fore it could be finiih’d. If the Gbfervation I have here made is juft, it may ferve as a Confirmati¬ on to the Learned Fabretti s Conje¬ cture on Trajan’s Pillar; who fuppoles, 1 think, with a great deal of Realon, that Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. that the Camps, Intrenchments, and other Works of the fame Nature, which are cut out as if they had been made of Brick or hewn Stone, were in rea¬ lity only of Earth, Tur£ or the like Materials for there are on the Pillar lome of thefe Suggejiums that are made like thole on Medals, with only this difference, that they feem built of Brick or Free-Stone. At Twelve Miles difiance from Rimini Hands the little Republick of Sr. Marino, which I could not forbear vifiting, tho’ it lyes out of the common Tour of Travel¬ lers, and has excellively bad Ways to it. I fhall here give a particular Account of it, becaufe I know no Body elfe that has done it. One may, at leaf!, have the Pleafure of feeing; in it fomething more lingular than can be found in great Governments, and form from it an Idea of Venice in its firfi Beginnings, when it had only a few Heaps of Earth for its Dominions, or of Rome it felt] when it had as yet cover’d but one of its Seven Hills. K / THE I29 [ 13 ° ] THE RE PUBLIC K O F St. MARINO. T H E Town and Republick of St. Marino Brands on the Top of a very high and craggy Mountain. It is generally hid among the Clouds, and lay under Snow when I law it, tho’ it was clear and warm Weather in all the Country about it. There is not a Spring or Fountain, that I could hear of in the whole Domini¬ ons, but they are always well pro¬ vided with huge Cifterns and Relcr- voirs of Rain and Snow-Water. The Wine 7 he Republic^ &c. 131 Wine that grows on the (ides of their Mountain is extraordinary good, and I think much better than any I met with on the cold (ide of the Appe- nines . This puts me in Mind of their Cellars, which have moil of ’em a natural Advantage that renders ’em extreamly cool in the hotted Seafons, for they have generally in the Sides of ’em deep Holes that run into the Hollows of the Hill, from whence S there condantly fffues a breathing kind of Vapour, fo very chilling in the Summer time, that a Man can (carce differ his Hand in the Wind of it. This Mountain, and a few neigh¬ bouring Hillocks that lye (catter’d a- bout the Bottom of it, is the whole Circuit of theie Dominions. They have, what they call, Three Caftles, Three Convents, and Five Churches, and can reckon about Five Thoudmd Souls in their Community. The In¬ habitants and Hidorians, that men¬ tion this little Republick, give the fol- K z lowing i cn 2 7 he Republick lowing Account of its Original. St.Ma¬ rino was its Founder, a Dalmatian by Birth, and by Trade a Mafon. He was employ’d about Thirteen Hun¬ dred Years ago in the Reparation of Rimini, and, after he had finifh’d his Work, retir’d to this fohtary Moun¬ tain, as finding it very proper for the Life of a Hermit, which he led in. the greatell Rigours and Aufterities of Religion. He had not been long here before he wrought a reputed Miracle, which, join’d with his extraordinary Sanctity, gain’d him io great an E- fteem that the Princefs of the Coun¬ try made him a Prefent of the Moun¬ tain to difpofe of it at his own Di- fcretion. His Reputation cjuickly Peo¬ pled it, and gave Rife to the Repub¬ lick that calls it felf after his Name. So that the Common-wealth of Ma~ rino may boalf at leaff of a nobler Original than that of Rome, the one ha¬ ving been at firft an Afylum for Rob¬ bers and Muderers, and the other a Re- of St. Marino. Refort of Perfons eminent for their Piety and Devot on. The heft of their Churches is Dedicated to the Saint, and holds his Afhes. His Sta¬ tue hands over the high Altar, with the Figure of a Mountain in its Hands, crown’d with Three Cattles, which is likewife the Arms of the Common¬ wealth. They attribute to his Pro- tedfion the long Duration of their State, and look on him as the great- eft Saint next the Blefled Virgin. I faw in their Statute-Book a Law againft fuch as fpeak diffefpedifuily of him, who arc to be pumfh’d in the fame manner as thofe that are Convicted of Blafphemy. This petty Republick has now lifted Fourteen Hundred Years, while all the States of Italy have feveral times chang’d their Matters and Forms of Government, i heir whole Hiftory is compris’d in Two Purchafes, which they made of a neighbouring Prince, and in a War in which they aflilted K 3 the ihe Republick the Pope againlt a Lord of Rimini. In the Year i i oo they bought a Caftle in the Neighbourhood, as they did another in the Year 1170. The Pa¬ pers of the Conditions are prelerv’d in their Archives, where ’tis very re¬ markable that the Name of the A- gent for the Common-wealth, of the Seller, of the Notary, and the Witneffes, are the lame in both the Inltruments, tho’ drawn up at Seventy Years di- Ifance from each other. Nor can it be any Miftake in the Date, becaufe the Popes and Emperors Names, with the Year of their Reigns, are both punctually let down. About 2^0 Years after this they alfilted Pope Pius the Second again It one of the Malatejla s, who was then Lord of Rimini ■, and when they had help’d to conquer him, receiv’d from the Pope, as a Reward for their Afliftancc, Four little Caltles. This they reprelent as the flourifhing Time of the Common-wealth, when their Dominions reach’d half way up of St. Marino. a neighbouring Hill; but at prelent they are reduc’d to their old Extent. They would probably fell their Liber¬ ty as dear as they could to any that attack’d ’em; for there is but one Road by which to climb up to ’em, and they have a very fevere Law a- gainft any of their own Body that enters the Town by another Path, left any new one fliould be worn on the Sides of their Mountain. Ail that are capable of bearing Arms are exercis’d, and ready at a Moment’s Call. The Sovereign Power of the Re- publick was lodg’d originally in what they call the Arengo, a great Coun¬ cil in which every Houle had its Re- prefentative. But becaufe they found too much Confolion in fuch a Mul¬ titude of Statefmen, they devolv’d their whole Authority into the Hands of the Council of Sixty. The Aren¬ go however is ftill call’d together in Gales of extraordinary Importance; K 4 and 7he Kepblick and if, after due Summons, any Mem¬ ber abf'ents hnnfelf, he is to be Fin’d to the value of about a Penny Englijh, which the Statute fays he {hall pay. Sine aiiqud diminutione ant gratia. In the ordinary Courfe of Govern¬ ment, the Council of Sixty (which,, notwithftanding; the Name.confifts but of Forty Perfons) has in its Hands the Adminiflration of Affairs, and is made up half out of the Noble Families, and half out of the Plebeian. They manage all by Baloting, are not ad¬ mitted ’till Five and Twenty Years old, and chufe the Officers of the Common-wealth. Thus far they agree with the Great Council of Venice, but their Power is much more extended ■, for no Sentence can hand that is noc confirm’d by Two Thirds of this Council. Be- fides, that no Son can be admitted into it during the Life of his Father, nor Two be in it of the fame Family, nor any enter but by Election. The of St. Marino. chief Officers of the Common-wealth arc the Two Captaneos , who have fuch a Power as the old Roman Con- fuls had, but are chofen every Six Months. I talk’d with fome that had been Captancos Six or Seven times, tho’ the Office is never to be continu’d to the lame Perions twice lucceffively. The Third Officer is the Commiffary, who judges in all Civil and Criminal Matters. But be- caufe the many Alliances, Friendlhips, and Intermarriages, as well as the Perional Feuds and Animofities that happen among Co fmall a People might obltrudt the Courfe of Juitice, if one of their own Number had the Diitri- bution of it; they have always a Fo¬ reigner for this Employ, whom they s chufe for Three Years, and maintain out of the Publick Stock. He mult be a Doctor of Law, and a Man of known Integrity. He is join’d in Commiffion with the Captaneos, and acts fomething like the Recorder of \ Lon - 138 The Republick London under my Lord Mayor. The Common-wealth of Genoa was forc’d to make ufe of a Foreign Judge for many Years, whillf their Republick was torn into the Divifions of Guelphs and Gibe lines. The Fourth Man in the State is the Phyfician, who muft likewife be a Stranger, and is main¬ tain’d by a publick Salary. He is ob¬ lig’d to keep a Horfe, to vifit the Sick, and to infpedfc all Drugs that are imported. He muft be at leaft Thirty Five Years old, a Dodtor of the Faculty, and eminent for his Re¬ ligion and Honefty; that his Rafhnefs or Ignorance may not unpeople the Common-wealth. And that they may not fuffer long under a bad Choice, he is eledted only for Three Years. The prefent Phyfician is a very un- derftanding Man, and well read in our Countrymen, Harvey, Willis, Sy¬ denham, &c. He has been continu’d for fome time among ’em, and they fay the Common-wealth thrives un- of St. Marino. i der his Hands. Another Pcrfon, that makes no ordinary Figure in the Re- publick, is the School-Mailer. I icarce met with any in the Place that had not fome Tindture of Learning. I had the Peruial of a Latin Book in Folio , en¬ titled, Statuta lllujirijjimis Reipublic