ABVBRTIgeMElffS. __ SEASON, 1863. THK ONLY SHORT SEA KOUTE TO THE CONTINENT. SEA PASSAGE UNDER TWO HOURS. SEVEN THROUGH SERVICES DAILY. REGULAR PARIS THROUGH NIGHT SERVICE, 1,2, &3 CLASS, Via Folkestone and Boulogne, 1ST AUDITION TO THE SPECIAL DAY SERVICE. LONDON & PARIS XKT lOi HOURS, BY THE ACCELERATED SPECIAL EXPRESS DAILY DIRECT TIDAL SERVICE Pit* Folkestone and Boulogne, Is* and 2nd Class. SHILL BOATS NEVER I’SEO. AS INTERPRETING COVOirrTOE. Marseilles.in 34 hours. J Switzerland (Bale). in 27i hours. Bordeaux...... 38 „ I Italy (Turin).. 60 „ FOR HOURS OF DEPARTURE (WHICH ARE VARIABLE) OF BOTH THE ABOVE SERVICES, SEE TIME BOOK AND BILLS. PARIS RETORN TICKETS, VIA BOULOGNE AND VIA CALAIS. NEW ROUTE TO GERMANY AND THE EAST T London to Vienna, Pesth, Basiasch, Kustendje, Constantinople. Via Cologne or Paris, Salzburg, and Muni' h. BEL.CIUM, GERMANY, HOLLAND, Sc C., Sc c„ BY THE MAIL TRAINS. FIVE SERVICES DAILY. I,flavine- London Bridge at 7 30 and 8 *5 p.m.. daily, and, except Sundays, at 9 13 a.m., via Calais; also at 7 30 a m and 8 33 p.m. (Sundays txcepted), via Ostend. THROUGH TICKETS ISSUED AND BAGGAGE REGiSTEKED (With a free allowance of so lbs., each Passenger), TO and from the PRINCIPAL CONTINENTAL CITIES and TOWNS, IN MANY op which there is an agent of the company. In consequence of the O eiii-'g of the Salz'-ursr Rail«ay between Mm ich and Vienna, Pas e'gersc»n now be boot-el fh -ought via p.ris to Vienna: »n< there -l J o, as he’-e ofore, ,-i« Colog e Throu h Ticket-, are n-w i.-sue-l to Mannheim, farlsruhe, Munich, Kustemlje. am Constantinople, via Paris; »ndtoBadeu« fallen and ««eiile*herg. Via P ; as wo l as by the Cologne Ro -ie, asfo.mer y THE PARCELS EXPRESSES CONVEY PARCELS TO NEARLY ATT, CONTINENTAL DESTINATIONS, AT THROUGH RATES, AS QUICKLY AS THE MAILS. A new system of Through Rates for Parrels up to 200 lbs. Weight, Folkestone and Boulogne, for Paris, *yons, Marseilles, mid othe> Priuc : p-l Towns in Fra-ce, fr om London and the Large To* ns cf ti e Uuited Kingdom. The Parcels are also now foi warUe I with increased rapidity. MEBCHA N 1> IS E FOBWAitDtD TO BOULOGNE, FOR ALL FURTHER INFORMATION. SEE TIME BOOK AND BOOK OF TARIFFS. Loitdon Bridge Station, Season 1833 , €!. W. EBOR AU* General Manager. ----.- LONDON, BRIGHTON, AND SOOTH COAST RAILWAY. IN ELEVEN HOURS AND A HALF, From London Bridge & Victoria (Pimlico). TWO SERVICES DAILY. Return Tickets, available for a Month: FIRST CLASS. 50s. SECOND CLASS.36s. THIRD CLASS (available by Night Service) ......... 27s. SINGLE TICKETS: FIRST CLASS.28s. SECOND CLASS. 2Cs. THIRD CLASS (available by Night Service). 1§S. THE SHORTEST, CHEAPEST, AND MOST PICTURESQUE ROUTE. CHEAP THBOTJGH TICKETS ARE NOW ISSUED TO MARSEILLES, TURIN, MILAN, GENEVA. %* For further particulars see Bradshaw's British and Continental Guides for the Current Month—the Company’s Time Table Book—and The Times Newspaper ; also upon application to the Agents of the Company in London and Paris; at the London Bridge, Victoria, and Kensington Termini; the various Stations on the Line; the West End Branch Office of the Company. No. 48, Regent’s Circus, Piccadilly: Is Paris, A. D. Besson, No. 7, Rue de la Pais; and in Durrs, 3d, Quai Henri IV* (Ma. _ , The most varied assortment of Railway and Continental OVERLAND AJH> AIR-TIGHT CASES I N D I A. SADIES’ PORTMAHTBAUa, OEHTtEHEIPS PORTJHAKTEAtr, A MOST NOTABLE /PECULIABITTi OE BARRETT-' BROTHERS’ OTerlandlVTonKt Is their extreme Lightness, an advantage entirely unattended by loss of Strength. PLEASE NOTE tiie ADDRESS, 184, i OXFORD STREET. W. Illustrated Catalogues forwarded Free by Fori; UiX^: t - X*- ~ aV '-/^Ux /df / > SM|t pO~ J"k&\d BRADSHAW’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE THROUGH PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS; EXHIBITING IN A NOVEL AND COMPREHENSIVE FORM ALL THAT CAN BE SEEN AND HOW TO SEE IT WITH THE LEAST FATIGUE, TIME, AND EXPENSE ; FORMING A COMPLETE AND INDISPENSABLE COMPANION TO THE VISITOR TO PARIS, AND CONTAINING A BEAUTIFUL AND DISTINCT PLAN OF PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS, TOGETHER WITH A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE CITY OF PARIS. AND OTHER WELL EXECUTED STEEL ENGRAVINGS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE FRENCH METROPOLIS. LONDON: W. J. ADAMS (BRADSHAW’S GUIDE OFFICE), 59, FLEET STREET (E.C.); MANCHESTER: BRADSHAW & BLACKLOCK, 106, CROSS STREET; LIVERPOOL :—T. FAIRBROTHER, 13, Canning Place ; SOUTHAMPTON GEORGE PHILLIPS, 1, Peninsular and Oriental Buildings, and 21, Barnard Street ; BIRMINGHAM JAMES GUEST, 52, Bull Street ; SHEFFIELD : ROBERT CHADDERTON, 21, Bow Street ; I EDINBURGH:—JOHN MENZIES, 2, Hanover Street; GLASGOW:—JAMES REID, 144, Argyle Street; DUBLIN:—A. CARSON, 51, Grafton Street (Comer of Stephen’s Green ); PARIS:—A. W. GALIGNANI & CO.’S Reading Room, Library, &c., 224, Rue de Rivoli; BRUSSELS:— Mr. FLATTAU. Booksellkr, Montagne de la Cour ; MALTA:— Mr. MUIR, 220, Strada Reale; ALEXANDRIAE. ST. J. FAIRMAN. Shipping and Forwarding Agent ; i UNITED STATES:—W. N. HARRISON & SON, 26, Second Street, Exchange Buildings, Baltimore. i-Ed sold by all Booksellers, and at all Railway Stations throughout Great Britain, Ireland, anl the C«*tinent. Editorial Manager W. Middleton, Brussels, to whom all Continental Advertisements for insertion in the Hand-Book should he addressed. [ 63 ] ADYERT ISEMENTS. PHllsisIP PRIZE MEDAI, 3 PRIZE MEDAI, ESTABLISHED **onti* International Exhibition 1868. 358 and 859, OXFORD STREET, W. NEXT TO TPIE F-AJXTTiKEIEOlSr. AND 155, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON. W. AND IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN CHINA AND GLASS. Messrs. W. P. and G. PHILLIPS respectfully solicit the favour oil an inspection of their extensive Stock. CHINA DINNER SERVICES, from 14 to 60 Guineas. 60s. to 18 42s, to 50 „ 42s. to 10 „ 30s. to 10 ii 10s. 6d. to 63s. STONE do. DESSERT SERVICES, BREAKFAST do. TEA do. TOILETTE do. RICHLY CUT TABLE GLASS, in every variety. ENGRAVED do. of the most recherche designs Ornamental Goods of all descriptions suitable for Wedding or Birthday Presents. INDIAN ORDERS EXECUTED WITH DESPATCH. ^TOMEROUS DESIGNS ALWAYS ON VIEW FOR FINISHING SERVICES TO ORDER WIT ORESTS, MONOGRAMS, ETC. SAMPLES OF AMY OF THE ABOVE SEMT CARRIAGE FREE. (9-Lo. HINTS TO VISITORS GOING FROM LONDON TO PARIS. We give at page XX. the necessary information respecting the different routes to Paris, to enable the traveller to select that which suits him best. If a person, however, be limited to a certain number of days, the direct routes via Calais or Boulogne will, of course, be preferred; but if time be no object, the scenery between those two places and Paris is somewhat too flat and monotonous to offer sufficient attraction to the generality of travellers, who will, no doubt, consider it desirable to go and return during the summer months by the two routes that afford the greatest novelty and interest to persons who have not yet visited the Continent, and who should avail themselves of this opportunity to visit the picturesque banks of the Seine, and the charming scenery and beauties of the Rhine. With this view, the traveller can proceed to Paris via Brighton, Dieppe, and Rouen, and return from thence by rail to Strasburg, Baden Baden, Frankfort, &c.: visit the principal towns on his route down the Rhine to Cologne, take the rail at this place for Belgium, and embark at Antwerp or Ostend for London, or proceed through Belgium first, thence up the Rhine to Strasburg, and on to Paris; returning thence to London via Rouen, Dieppe, and Brighton. The advantages by either of these routes are, that the traveller is amused and interested by a variety of scenery and remarkable objects on his journey. For instance, Dieppe is the favourite and fashionable watering place of the Parisians and is much frequented for its excellent sea bathing. The environs are exceedingly pretty, comprising the Chateau of Louis Philippe at Eu, the ruins of the castle of Arque, in the valley of Bethune, and the Chateau d’Ange, &c. The railway from Dieppe to Rouen passes through a highly-cultivated portion of Normandy, the scenery being diversified with villas and chateaux up to the very | walls of Rouen, one of the finest provincial cities in France; and to which the traveller i should devote at least a whole day, to visit the several remarkable objects and scenes for which it is celebrated. The Cathedral and Churches, the Hotel de Ville and Museum, &c. r i and the memorable places of surpassing interest connected with the tragic martyrdom of the unfortunate Joan of Arc, who was burnt at the stake, in the Place de la Pucelle, and whose statue now ornaments the square. j The scenery between Rouen and Paris, along the banks and valleys of the Seine is exceedingly pretty; and the traveller who enters Paris by this route will have his mind already stored with a variety of the most pleasing souvenirs, predisposing it to a better Appreciation of the wonders of Paris than if he went direct from London. The route via Southampton and Havre offers nearly the same variety of attractive views, especially if the visitor can ascend the Seine by steamer from Havre to Rouen, as the scenery of the lower Seine is peculiarly picturesque, and in some parts wild and rugged, resembling in many eatures the characteristics of the Rhine, and by many considered even superior, with its svooded heights and mined castles. I After passing a week or two in Paris» the traveller will find it a delightful change to Iv HINTS TO VISITORS GOING FROM LONDON TO PARIS. proceed thence by rail, direct to Strasburg and Frankfort, whence he can make excursions to the celebrated watering places and towns in the vicinity of the Ehine, such as Heidelberg? Homburg, Wiesbaden, Baden Baden, Mayence, Coblentz, Stolzenfels, &c., and explore from these and other places the inland beauties of the countries bordering the Rhine between Mayence and Cologne. From Cologne the tourist should proceed to Belgium, to visit the fine old cities of Liege, Antwerp, Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges, with their splendid cathedrals, town-halls, and churches, museums, and magnificent collections of paintings—for all of which Belgium is so celebrated—and then embark at Ostend or Antwerp for London. Or, as already mentioned, by inverting the order of the routes or places, the traveller can proceed by whichever route he deems most agreeable, whether by Brighton, Dieppe, and Rouen, or Havre or via Antwerp, or Ostend, Cologne, Frankfort, and Strasburg. By the Rhine and Strasburg will, of course, be much more expensive than direct by Boulogne or Calais. By Brighton and Dieppe, or by Southampton and Havre, will be little more than half the cost of the Boulogne or Calais mail r oute; but whatever the difference may be in money or time, it will be mere than compensated for, by the additional pleasure afforded in visiting so many places of engrossing interest, in seeing so much beautiful and picturesque scenery, in inspecting the splendid and noblest specimens of Gothic architecture, and works of art; in observing the manners and cus¬ toms of the French, the Germans, and the Belgians, and all this in addition to the attractions of Paris, and during one tour on the Continent. Many persons will probably extend their journey up the Rhine into Switzerland, and return via Paris, or vice versa , which will be adding so many more pleasing souvenirs and reminiscences. The hotel accommodation at Dieppe and Rouen, as well as in Belgium, and all up the Rhine, is particularly good, and this will not only enhance the pleasure of the journey, but prove beneficial to the health of the traveller before he reaches the French capital in the hot months of summer. INDEX PAGE Abbey St. Denis.xvii., 54 Abelard. 29 Advertisements . 77 Anne of Austria.40, 43 Auteuil.xvii., 34, 49 Arc de Triomphe.. xvi., 2, 16, 34 Archives Imperiales. 58 Archives Judiciares. 24 Armand. 12 Arsenal. 68 Asnieres.34, 71 Avenue de Neuilly. 15 Banque de France. 31 Barriere Blanche.xxv. Barriere de l’Etoile ..xvi., xxv. Barriere de la Gare.xxv. Barriere de Monceaux.xxv. Barriere du Houle.xxv. Barriere de Long Champs .. xxv. Barriere du Trone.xxv., 61 Barriere d’Enfer .xxv. Barriere des Martyrs .xxv. Barriere du Maine.xxv. Barriere Montparnasse .... xxv. Barriere Poissonniere . r .... xxv. Barriere St. Jacques .xxv. Bastille .xxv. Batignollaises .xxv. Batignolles Monceaux.xxv. Bayard. 35 Bearnaises .xxv. Belleville.xxv., 34, 71 Belle Fermibre. 60 Bercy .xxv. Bertrand . 19 Bibliotheque de 1’Arsenal.... 68 Bibliotheque du Commerce .. 53 Bibliotheque St. Genevieve .. 45 Bibliotheque Imperiale. 52 Bougival .. 71 Bois de Bologne..xvi.,xvii., .34, 48 Boulevards .... xv., xxv., 32 Boulevards des Italiens.xv. Boulevard des Filles du Cal- vaire.xxv. Boulevard de la Madeleine.. xxv. Boulevard du Temple .. xxv., 57 Boulogne .xx. Bourdon... 28 Bourse . 53 PAGE Cabs.xxi. Calais.xx. Camille Desmoulins . 10 Cardinal Mazarin . 52 Carrefour de l’Odeon. 47 Caserne Napoleon . 30 Casirair Perier. 61 Catherine de Medicis.5, 31 Champs Elysees ..xvi., xxii., 35 Champs de Mars ..xvii., xxv., 19 Chapelle du Calvaire. 23 Chapelle St. Denis .xxv. Chapelle Expiatoire. 12 Chapel St. Ferdinand ...... xvi. Charenton .xxv. Charles V. 1 Charles IX. 8 Chateau d’Eau... 32 Chateau des Fleurs.xvi., 15 Chateau de Fontainebleau.... 63 Chateau of Meudon .... xvii., 51 Chateau Rouge.xxv. Chateau de Vincennes . 63 Chemin de Fer de Lyon .... xxv. Chemin de Fer du Nord .... xxv. Chevalier Bernini. 7 Churches and Chapels (English).xvii., 75 Cirque de l’liuperatrice. 15 Cirque Olympique. 33 Citadines .xxv. Closeiie de Lilacs.xvi. Clovis. 1 Colbert . 35 College de France. 2 College of Henri IV. 46 College Louis le Grand. 46 Colonnade. 1 Column of July. 60 Column Vendome. 22 Compiegne.xiv. Conciergerie. 26 Conde. 35 Conservatoire des Arts, &c... 54 Constantines.xxv. Corps Legislatif. 20 Count de Paris. 21 Daguesclin . 35 Damss. 12 Damien.. 26 PAG* Delappierre, Mr.xxiv. Delorme . 5 Devienne. 12 Dieppe .xx. Diorama of M. Langlais .... 15 Docks Napoleon. 34 Dover.xx., xxi. Duchess de Bourbon. 15 Duchess of Orleans . 21 Duguesne. 35 Duguay-Trouin . 35 Duke of Cambridge.15, 19 Duke of Orleans. 10, 60 Duke of Wellington. 15 Dunkirk.xx. Duroc . 19 Eaubonne. 34 Ecole de Medicine. 47 Ecole Militaire.2, 19 Ecole Polytecnique. 46 Elysee National .. 15 Emperor of Russia. 15 English Directory of First-rate Houses and best Shops in Paris.xxxvi. EDghien .56, 71 Ermont. 34 Esplanade des Invalides .... 17 Excellentes .xxv , Faubourg St. Martin .xxv. Favourites.xxv. Fix, Mdm. 12 Fleury.12, 52 Folkestone .xx. Fontainebleau .... xiv., xvii., 63 Fontaine St. Antoine. 67 Fontaine des Capucins. 23 Fontaine St. Martin . 54 Fontaine Moliere . 11 Fortifications. 74 Foret de Fontainebleau. 66 Francis 1.1, 7 French Phrases.xxvii. Gazelles .xxv. General Hoche. 35 Girondists. 27 Gobelin’s Manufactoryxvi., J, 70 Gobelins.xxv. INDEX \J PAGE ©rand Trianon. 38 Gravesend .xxi. Grenelle.xxv. Grenier de Reserve. 68 Gros-Caillou.xxv. Halle aux Bles . 31 Halles Centrales. 30 Halle aux Yins . 69 Havre .. Heloise. 29 Henry IV.1, 68 Henry IV., Bath. 24 Hippodrome....,. 16 Hirondelles .xxv. Hopital Militaire. 43 Hopital St. Louis. 1 Hotels.xxii., xxiii. Hotel de Cluny.xvi., 46 Hotel Dieu . 27 Hotel deslnvalides, xv., xVii.,1,17 Hotel des Monnaies . 47 Hotel de Praslin. 22 Hotel de Sully. 68 Hotel de Ville .. xiv., xvii., 2, 29 Hugh Capet... 1 Imprimerie Imperiale . 59 Isle de la Cite.1, 2 Jacques Molay .. 24 Jardin d’Hiver. 15 Jardin de Luxembourg. 42 Jardin Mobille.xvi., 15 Jardin des Plantes .. xvi., 67, 69 Joinville .72 Jourdan.... . 35 Lannes. 35 Larochelle . 12 Law . 23 LaVillette.xxv. Letters .xvii. London.xvii., xxi. Lord Raglan .15, 19 Louis Philippe.xiv., 23, 35 Louis XIII.4, 10, 35 Louis XIV.1, 2, 6, 10, 23, 35 Louis XV. 61 Louis XVI....12,14, 58- Louvre .xv., xvii., xxv., 7 Lucien Buonaparte . 11 Lycee Charlemagne. 67 Madame Elizabeth. 27 Madame de Maintenon. 38 Madame de Pompadour .... 15 Madeleine .. ..xv., xxv., 1, 2, 13 Madeleine Broham, Mdm.... 12 Maillotins. 30 Maison de Cluny. 46 Maison Doree. 32 Mars. 12 Marie Antoinette.. 12, 14, 23, 26, 38, 50, 56 PAGE Marie de Medicis . 14 Marseilles.xx. Marshal Turenne. 18 Marshal Ney . 61 Massena . 35 Maurice de Saliac. 27 Meudon .xvii., 51 Mc.Henry .xxv. Mirabeau. 44 Mole . 12 Moliere. 11 Money .xvii., xxvi. Monrose . 12 Monteaux and Co.xxiv. Montmartre .34, 72 Montmorency.34, 56 Montrouge.,.xxv. Montrougiennes.xxv. Morgue, La.... 27 Mortier.. 35 Murat . 15 Musee d’Artillerie.xvii., 39 Musee des Beaux Arts.xvii. Napoleon.13, 14 Nouvelle Fores . 63 Newhaven.xx. Neuilly. xxv., 72 Notre Dame.xv., 1, 2, 27 Obelisk de Luxor.2, 14 Observatory.1, 43 Odeon.xxv. Omnibuses.xxv. Opdra Comique. 33 Opdra Fran 9 ais . 33 Palace of Veisailles. 35 Palais des Beaux Arts .... 2, 40 Palais Bourbon .. 20 Palais de 1’Industrie. 15 Palais de Justice.xv., 25 Palais de la Legion d’Honneur 21 Palais du Luxembourg xv. ,xvii. ,41 Palais du Quai d’Orsay.... 2, 21 Palais du Prior. 57 Palais Royal.xv., xxv., 10 Palais des Thermes. 46 Pantheon.xvi., xxv., 1, 43 Paris .xiii., xxi., xxiii., 1 Passports.xvii. Passy.xxv., 34, 48 Pere la Chaise .. ..xvi., xxv., 60 Petits Peres. 32 Petit Trianon. 38 Philip Augustus. 1 Place de la Bastille. 60 Place Cadet .xxv. Place du Carousel xv., xxv., 2, 6 Place du Chatelet. 24 Place de laConcorde,xv.,xiv.,2,14 Place Dauphine ....xxv., 25 Place de l’Ecole... 24 Place du Havre.xxv. Place du Palais Royal.xxv, I PAGE Place de Richelieu. 53 Place St. Sulpice . xxv., 40 Place Vendome. 22 Place des Victoires. 31 Place des Vosges. 59 Pont d’Austerlitz. 68 Pont du Carousel. 3 Pont de la Concorde. 20 Pont d’lena. 17 Pont des Invalides. 17 Pont Neuf.1, 24 Pont Royal.1, 22 Pont de la Reforme. 29 Pont de Solferino. 21 Pope Alexander III. 27 Porte St. Denis. 1, 32 Porte St. Martin .... xxv., 1, 32 Post Office.xxvi. Prince de Conde. 20 Prince Napoleon. 11 Prince Polignac. 49 Prince de Salm. 21 Prison des Jeunes Detenus .. 61 Provost, Mr. 12 Quai Conti. 47 Quai de Voltaire. 22 Rachel, Mile. 12 Ravaillac . 30 Reynier, Mr. 12 Richelieu. 35 Robespierre.27, 3Q Rouen .xx. Rueil. 73 Rue St. Antoine. 30, 60, 67 Rue Castiglione.xxv. Rue du Faubourg St. Honore,xxv. Rue Franc Bourgois. 59 Rue Grenelle Sc. Honore.... xxv. Rue St. Honore.xxv. Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau xxv. Rue Mouffetard.xxv. Rue de la Paix.xxii., xxv. Rue du Rempart. 12 Rue Richelieu.xxv. Rue de Rivoli. .xv. Rue Vivienne.xxv., 54 Sainte Chapelle .xv., 26 Samaritan Bath. 24 Samsons, Mr... 12 Sceaux . 73 Seine (river). 45 S&iat, Palais du . 41 Sevres.xvii., 2, 51 Sorbonne. 1, 46 Southampton .xx. St. Cloud .xvi., 34, 49 St. Denis. 55 St. Etienne du Mont. 45 St. Eustache . 30 St. Germain .xvii., 71 St. Germain l’Auxerrois .... 10 St. Germains de Pre's. 48 INDEX. vii PAGE St. Gervais. 30 St. Jacques. 23 St. Lazare.xxv. St. Louis. 26 St. Ouen . 73 St. Paul and St. Louis. 67 St. Roch . 23 St. Sulpice. 2, 40 St. Vincent de Paul. 57 Ste. Genevieve.1, 43 Suffren. 35 Suger. 35 Sully. 35 Talma. 12 Tapisseries des Gobelins .. 67, 70 Terrace of Bellevue ....xvii., 51 PAGE Theatre de l’Ambigu........ 33 Theatre du Boul,Beaumarchais33 Theatre des Delassements.... 33 Theatre des Folies Dramatiques 33 Theatre Fian 9 ais. 11 Theatre des Funambules .... 33 Theatre de la Gait6 . 33 Theatre Gymnase . 33 Theatre Lyrique. 53 Theatre de St. Martin . 33 Theatre del’Odeon. 47 Theatre des Varieties. 33 Theatre du Vaudeville. 53 The Temple.. 57 Tomb of Colbert. 31 Tomb of Cath. de Medicis .. PAGS Tomb of Dagobert. 56 Tomb of Napoleon.. 18 Tomb of Princess Demidoff.. 61 Tomb of St. Genevieve. 45 Tourville. 35 Tuilleries .... xv., xvii., xxii., 8 Turenne . 35 Val de Grace Church. 43 Vaugirard.xxv. Versailles. xvi., 33 Ville d’Avray . 34 Vincennes. 2 Visconti.7, 11 Voitures a Remise.xxiii. Voitures de Place.xxiv. MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGS. ARC DE TRIOMPHE. . .. 14 CHAPEL OP THE PALACE OF VERSAILLES. 28 CHAPELLB DES INVALIDES. 62 CHATEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU. 64 CLERMONT, VIEW OF . 1 DONJON DU CHATEAU VINCENNES... 62 ENTREE DU PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 28 EXCHANGE . 52 FONTAINE DES INNOCENTS . 6 HOTEL DE VILLE. 52 JARDIN DES PL ANTES. 70 JULY COLUMN. 52 LOUVRE, COLONNADE OF THE. 14 LOUVRE, COURT OF....... 4 MUSEES DU LOUVRE . 6 MADELINE CHURCH.. 14 NOTRE DAME . 28 PARIS, PLAN OF ..Behind Title. PARIS, BIRD’S EVE VIEW OF.Face Title. PASS OF VIRON . 64 PERE LA CHAISE, VIEW OF . 64 PERE LA CHAISE, PLAN OF . 60 PLACE DE LA CONCORDE .1 . 14 PLACE OF THE CARROUSEL. 4 PORTE D’ENTREE CHATEAU DE VINCENNES. 62 RIVOLI, RUE DE . 28 ST. CLOUD, VIEW IN. 1 ST. GENEVIEVE, EGLISE. 63 TUILERIES, THE . 4 VAL DE GRACE. 28 VENDOME COLUMN . 52 ADVERTISEMENTS. CHINA AND GLASS ROOMS. JOHN W. SHARP US, 49 Sc 50, OXFORD STREET, LOisriDOisr, •w. PARIAN CHINA ORNAMENTS AMAZON. nr STATUARY, GROUPS, AND FIGURES, MINTON’S CHINA, in all its Varieties. A Choice Collection of MINTON’S PARIAN CLASSIC ORNAMENTS. MINTON’S CELEBRATED EARTHENWARE, of the Newest and most Elegant Designs. FRENCH CHINA, Useful and Ornamental, the latest Patterns Imported. BOHEMIAN VASES and TOILETTES. BOHEMIAN GLASS of every description. A Price Catalogue may be had on application, containing full descriptions of Kitchen Requisites, Toilet Ware, Papier Trays, Cutlery, Plated Cruet Frames, Hot Water Plates and Dishes, and every requisite required for furnishing, at extremely reduced Cash Prices. , __ _ A China Dinner Service, to Dinefll2 persons, Torquoise and Gold,Ti5 "Gui neas . All orders from the Country must be accompanied with a reference or remittance. [IG-Lo. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. * Page Address to tlie Traveller. xiii. Addresses of Embassies and Consulates in Paris. 74 Cabs . xxi. Cardinal Numbers.xxxv. Choice of Locality .xxii. Days and Hours for visiting Public Buildings, Palaces, Museums, &c. .xxxviii., xxxix. English Directory of First-rate Houses and Best Shops in Paris...xxxvii.,xxxviii. Form of Address.xxvi. Fortifications. 74 French Phrases .xxvii. to xxxv. Hotels.xxii., xxiii. Hints to Visitors going from London to Paris. iii. Index. L . v. Letters . xviii. List of Customs Duties . 75 Page Luggage. xxi. Money .xvii., xxvi. Money Changers.xviii. Ordinal Numbers .xxxv. Passports.xvii. Post Office .xviii., xxvi., 75 Postal convention with France.xviii. Preface . xi. Public Conveyances.xxiv., xxv. Bailway Termini. xl. Routes. —Boulogne, Calais, Dieppe, Dunkirk, and Havre.xx. and xxi. Visitors passing only One Day in Paris xv. Ditto Two Days 11 xvi. Ditto Three Days 11 xvi Ditto Four Days 11 xvii. Ditto Five Days 11 xvii. Ditto Six Days 11 xvii. Ditto Seven Days 11 xvii. Paris —Historical and Descriptive 1 to 4 FIRST DAY. PAGES The Tuileries—Place du Carousel—Louvre—St. Germain l’Auxerrois—Palais Royal—Fontaine Moliere—Theatre du Palais Royal—Rue du Remparts The Tuileries . 4 t0 ^ SECOND DAY. Chapelle Expiatoire—Madeleine—Place de la Concorde—Champs Elvsees—Cirque de l’lmperatrice—Place des Champs Elysees—Arc de l’Etoile—Pont des Invalides—Pont d’lena—Jnvalides — Champs de Mars—Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres—Corps Legislatif—Pont de la Concorde—Palais de la Legion d’Honneur — Palais du Quai d’Orsay—Barracks—Pont Royal— Quai de Voltaire . 12 to 22 X CONTENTS. PAGES. THIRD DAY. Place Vendome—Fontaine desCapucins—St. Roch—St. Jacques de la Boucherie— Pont Neuf—Place Dauphine—Palais de Justice—Sainte Chapelle—Concier- gerie—La Morgue—Hotel Dieu—Notre Dame—Pont de la Reforme—Hotel de Ville—Caserne Napoleon—St. Gervais—Henry IV. Assassinated—Halles Centrales—Fontaine des Innocents—St. Eustache—Halle Aux Bles—Bank of France—Place des Victoires..». 22 to 33 FOURTH DAY. Versailles . 33 to 30 FIFTH DAY. Mus£e d’Artillerie—Palais des Beaux Arts—Place, Fountain, and Church of St. Sulpice—Palais du Luxembourg—Statue of Marshal Ney—Observatoire— Val de Grace—Pantheon—Bibliotheque—Ste. Genevieve—St. Etienne du Mont—Ecole Polytechnique—College Louis le Grand—Sorbonne—Hotel de Cluny—Theatre Odeon—Hotel des Monnaies .... 39 to 48 SIXTH DAY. Bois de Bologne, St. Cloud, Sevres, Meudon .. 48 to 52 SEVENTH DAY. Bibliotheque Imperiale—Place Louvois—Bourse—Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers—St. Denis—Enghien—Montmorency and St. Vincent de Paul. 52 to 57 EIGHTH DAY. Le Temple—Archives Imperiales—Imprimierie Imperiale—Place des Vosges— Bastille—Pere la Chaise—Place du Trone—Vincennes. 57 to G2 NINTH DAY, Fontainebleau ... 63 to 67 TENTH DAY. Rue St. Antoine—St. Pierre et St. Paul—Fontaine St. Antoine—Hotel de Sully— Temple Protestante—Arsenal—Grenier de Reserve—Pont d’Austerlitz—Jardin des Plantes—Halle aux Vins—Manufacture des Gobelins. 67 to 70 Environs of Paris ..... 71 to 73 ADVERTISEMENTS. benhamTand SONS’ (fcmeral iunxtsbmg |rmtmflng«|| Catalog m may BE HAD GRATIS, AND FREE BY POST. It contains Illustrations of their extensive Stock of Stoves, Fenders, and Fire Irons, Kitchen Ranges and Cooking Apparatus, Iron and Brass Bedsteads and Childrens Cots, Bedding, Bed-Hangings, Blankets, &c.. Baths, Pumps, and Water-Cl-sets, Hot V/ater Appa¬ ratus, Conservatories. &c., Cutlery, Electro-Plate. Tea Urns, Lamps, and every description of General Furnishing Ironmongery. TABLE CUTLEKX French Polished Maho¬ gany Cask. containing o Dozen best Ivory-handled Table Knives (No. 12), 2 Dozen Dessert Knives, 3 Pairs of Meat Carvers, 2 Pairs of Poultry Carvers, and 1 Table Steel. £15 15 Smaller sizes .from 8 8 Ivory Handled Balanced Table Knives, from 15s. 6d. to 55s per Dozen, according to pat¬ tern and quality. Carvers to cor¬ respond. ELECTRO PLATED SPOONS AND FORKS. 12 Table Forks. 12 Table Spoons. 12 Dessert Forks. 12 Dessert Spoons. 2 Gravy Spoons. 1 Soup Ladle. 11 Fish Knife . 4 Sauce Ladles . 4 Salt Spoons (gilt bowls) . .. 1 Mustard Spoon (gilt bowl). 12 Tea Spoons. 1 Sugar Tongs. 1 Sugar Sifter (pierced) . 1 Moist Sugar Spoon . 6 Egg Spoons (gilt bowls) ... 1 Butter Knife . Fiddle Pattern. Cottage or Old Silver Pattern. Threaded Patiern, or Threaded Cot- tage Pattern. JVleoiuiu Quality. 2 0 2 0 1 12 0 1 12 0 0 16 0 0 13 6 0 15 0 0 16 0 0 8 0 2 0 Heavy Plating. Heavy Plating. 0 1 0 0 n o 12 0 4 0 0 4 0 5 0 2 6 0 0 £13 6 0 £2 15 0 2 15 0 2 2 0 2 2 0 10 0 0 16 0 0 18 0 10 0 0 10 0 0 2 6 0 0 0 0 0 6_ £1T 0 0 1 6 0 5 0 6 0 3 0 15 0 4 £2 15 0 2 15 0 2 2 0 2 2 0 10 0 0 16 0 0 18 0 10 0 0 10 0 0 2 6 Heavy Plating. 1 6 0 5 0 6 0 3 0 15 0 4 £3 10 3 10 2 8 2 8 1 7 1 0 1 0 1 6 0 12 0 3 1 15 0 0 5 6 0 7 6 0 3 6 0 18 0 0 6 0 Threaded 3he]l. Lily, or Bose Pattern. Heavy Plating. £17 0 0 I £20 19 6 £3 10 3 10 2 8 0 12 0 3 1 15 0 5 0 7 0 3 0 18 0 6 £20 19 6 OAK PLATE CHESTS FROM 55s., ACCORDING TO SIZE. THE PRICES ARE SUBJEC T TO 5 PER CENT. DISCOUNT FOR READY MONEY soisrs, NOS. 19, 20, and 21, WIGMORE STREET, LONDON, W. IVnrial _ | __=__'__ AD VE RTISEMENTS. PRIZE MEDAL, MEDAILLE D’HONNEUR, PRIZE MEDAL, 1851. 1855. 1862. By Appointment to Her Majesty and the Emperor Napoleon III. FURNITURE AND DE CORATION. Prize Medal, Great ExMMfion, 1851. Gold Medal of Honour, Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1855. Medal “For Great Excellence ofDeslgn and Workmanship,” International Exhibition, 1869. TACKSON and GRAHAM have recently made great additions to their tJ former extensive premises, which render their establishment the largest and most complete of its kind in this or any other country. The spacious Show Rooms and Galleries comprise a superficial area of 27,000 feet, and are filled with an unrivalled stock, tbe prices of which are all marked in plain figures at the most moderate rate for ready money. The extensive manufactory adjoining, with machinery worked by steam power, is fitted with all means and appliances to ensure superiority and economise cost. Each of the undermentioned departments will be found as complete as if it formed a separate business, viz.:— Paper Hanging's, Painting, and Interior Decorations of all kinds. Experienced workmen sent to all parts of the kingdom. Carpets, Of superior manufacture, of every description. Cabinet Furniture. Chairs, Sofas, Ottomans, &c. Silk and Silk and Wool Damasks, Aubusson and Venetian Tapestries, Chintzes, Utrecht Velvets, Arras, Rtps, Merino Damasks, Cloth, &c., &c. Bedsteaa S of Iron , Brass, and various Woods, and superior Bedding and Mattresses of all kinds (Four Show Rooms, each 120 feet long, are devoted to this department.) Plate Glass, Carving and Gilding. Gallery of Bronzes d’Art (sole depot for the productions of F. Barbedienne and Co., Paris), Clocks, Candelabra, Vases, and Ornamental Porcelain. The public are thus enabled to select their Paper Hangings or Decorations, Carpets, Curtains, and Furniture, all in harmony with each other, without the trouble and inconvenience of going to different houses. 33, 34, 35, 37, 38, OXFORD STREET, PERRY’S PLACE, FRESTON PLACE, and NEWMAN YARD, adjoining. Extract from flic Report of the Jury of Class XXX. (5). “We have already stated that the Furniture exhibited by Messrs JACKSON and GRAHAM was, in a most special manner, distinguithed by the International Jury. The great Sideboard in British Oak, decorated with figures, subjects, and attributes, is executed with rare pe fection ; and although there may be a lit le exc-es of richness in the composition, the workmansi ip is all that nul l be dtsired. The same remark applies to the great Wardrobe, inlaid with coloured wood, wl ich is placed in the Nave at the back of the Sideboard ; the columns and pilas ers which separate the three divisions of this piece of Furniture, are in good taste, and of most careful execution. 1 ’ “In the English Fmniture Court th«y have exhibited several pieces of Furniture; one especially received admiration for the elegance and simplicity of its form, as wtll as for its perfect execution. It is a small Etagere in ebony, inlaid with ivory, in quiet and perfect taste, and may s- rve as a model ih the midst of that exuberance of richness without reason wh ch Furniture Manufacturers so constantly . produce. Another Cabinet in ebony, enriched with gilt bronzes, accompanies the Etagere; the mountings, are very well executed, but perhaps too rich for the Cabinet. A Drawing Room Decoration, with a .. Chimney Piece finished with French bronzes, completes the important exhibi ion, truly worthy of a HOUSE WHICH IN 1851 AND 1855 TOOK THE FIRST RANK IN THE PRODUCTION OF FURNITURE, AND CONTINUES US EFFORTS IN THE DIRECTION OF ART AND GOOD TASTE. flQ Ln. PREFACE. Tlie rapid and extensive sale of the first editions of this popular Guide has induced the proprietors to publish a new edition annually. The work is in the form of an Itinerary, and is divided into such portions, or routes through Paris, as the Visitor will be able to accomplish in a given time. Everything worthy of attention is distinctly noticed, and each day’s walk is so carefully arranged, that the trouble and confusion generally arising from the indiscriminate view of numerous objects, are by this means avoided. Many useful hints respecting hotels, lodgings, &c., have been added to the present edition—and the whole carefully re¬ vised, so as to render it a complete Guide to the objects of attraction in the French capital. June, 1863. ADVERTISEMENTS. TO THE TRAVELLER. In publishing the following Guide for Paris, the proprietors have had the same object in view which has always stimulated them in their former publications, viz.: giving to the public the most full and at the same time the most concise informa¬ tion they had it in their power to collect. Every one on arriving at a new city naturally asks, What is to he seen here , and How is it to he seen ? and this question, not easily solved from the elaborate and learned guides now published, becomes more and more pressing, in proportion to the shortness of the stay which the visitor is about to make. In Paris, more especially is this difficulty felt. There are so many objects to be seen, so many more which the visitor desires to see, that he is perplexed and distressed what to do. If he apply to friends, one directs him to one place, another to another, each according as his taste inclines him to prefer one public monument or one public institution to another; and so the unfortunate sight-seeker finds that, in following the advice of friends, he loses a large portion of that which is most valuable to be seen, from the mere want of duly economising his time. But this pre-supposes that his friend is thoroughly acquainted with Paris and Us environs, and is gifted with the capacity of acting as a guide. Whereas every day’s experience teaches that people residing in a place are actually often the least qualified to act as guides ; and there are many Parisians residing in Paris, as well as many Londoners residing in London, who know comparatively nothing of the interior of the public places of their respective cities of residence. If, on the other hand, the visitor throw these kind friends or relations over¬ board, and apply himself to a Guide-Book, he discovers that the generality of them contain either too much or too little, and that none of them inform him how so to divide his time as to combine objects the most interesting, in, as it were, a coup d’ceil. The object of the present guide, is not only to answer the question, What is to he seen ? but the not less essential one, How is it to he seen ? and this too in a con¬ venient and methodical form. By arranging the places to be visited each day, according to their proximity to each other, a great advantage is gained. The tounst will have no wild chase after a “ lion ” in one quarter of the town, and another immediately after in an opposite and distant locality. More may therefore be seen in the same time and with less fatigue. A short historical and descriptive notice is appended to each object of interest, INTRODUCTION. XIV giving the most important particulars, and yet brief enough to be gathered in at a glance on the spot. This necessarily adds to the pleasure of the visit, by recalling the principal events, and arousing those associations which would otherwise, in the excitement and hurry of seeing so many material things before us, remain unawakened. The plan of the work divides the time of the visitor into ten days, allotting to him so much for each day. By pursuing the arrangement Tkus laid down, he cannot fail to be made acquainted with the greater part of all that is most important, and most capable of affording him pleasure in Paris and its distant environs, for even Compiegne and Pontainebleau are included in its environs, But there may be others who will be unable to stay out the time allotted, and who therefore adopting this plan, would lose the sight of several of the finest monuments of the metropolis of France. It has therefore been thought advisable for the benefit of such, to give a prepa¬ ratory arrangement of the objects to be seen, so that the stranger entering Paris for a single day , may know at once what he should see, as well as the readiest means of seeing it in that limited time. The same is done for a visitor having two days at his disposal; the same again for a person having three days , and so on. And here a few words of remark may be offered on the order of selection. Of course there can be no greater difficulty than that of catering for the tastes of so many as will naturally be led to visit Paris, since so great a variety of opinion and criticism exists in the world. Taking the Hotel de Ville for example. One person visiting it, is struck with the beauty of its construction, and regards it as one of the finest monuments of the reign of Louis Philippe. If he penetrate into the interior, and visit the private apartments of the Prefect or the public salons, he admires the paint¬ ings on the walls, the gildings of the ceilings, the graceful fall of the draperies, the richness of the silk decorations, the magnificence of the furniture, the brilliance of the mirrors, the style of the architecture, and the superb disposal of the whole. Another person visiting it the same day, and under the same auspices, judges it but a waste of time to have come out of his way to see it. This is no unusual occurrence, and that too amongst persons professing a refinement of taste. The difficulty has been then to strike the average, and make such an arrangement as may satisfy all parties. In directing the steps of the stranger from one object to another, the most judicious choice has been made, and those monuments which excite the most general interest, first selected. We may therefore confidently anticipate that such, an order will produce the greatest amount of entertainment, and give universal satisfaction. INTKODUCTlOir. XV TO VISITOES PASSING ONLY ONE DAY AT PARIS. Take up your abode at one of the Hotels which you will find mentioned at page XXII., but let it be, if possible, near the Boulevards, or the Rue St. Honore. Breakfast at 8 o’clock, walk along the Boulevards, from the Boulevard des Italiens to the Madeleine, one of the most beautiful and modem churches of Paris. Here you may take & Remise f a superior kind of cab, something like an English Brougham), for which you will have to pay two francs an hour. Thus you gain your money in having a better horse, and going over your ground in less time. The coach¬ man expects about five sous the hour. If you give the driver to understand that your object is to see all you can of Paris, he will take you by the most public streets, and point out the principal public buildings that lie in your route. It should be observed that you will find Remises in nearly every street. They stand always under some shed or building, and not, as the cabs, in the open air. They are always ready, and you will find the coachmen generally civil and obliging. Drive then to Notre Dame, visit the Palais de Justice and the Sainte Chapelle ,* which adjoins it. Then proceed to the Gardens and the Palace of the Luxembourg. You will only have time to view the exterior, and take a momentary glance at the Picture Gallery, filled with the works of living artists, which it contains. Direct your course next to the Hotel des Invalides where your passport or stamped card will gain you admission to see the church and tomb of Napoleon, one of the richest sights in Paris, if on a Monday or Thursday, from 12 to 4 o’clock ;Jhe entrance is at the rear, in the Place Vauhan. After seeing the tomb, you may pass into the chapel of the Invalides, decorated with the flags and standards taken in various battles. Prom the Invalides drive to the Place de la Concorde , and (here discharging your Remise) walk through the Gardens of the Tuileries , to view their beauties, and the Palace, whose principal front faces them. Go out by one of the gates on the left, into the Rue de Rivoli, and cross over to the Palais Royal, which, with its beautiful shops, cafes, and restaurants, is always interestmgT"lfFthe southern extremity, the end facing the Louvre, is the Palace now inhabited by Prince NapolgQn. In the Palais Royal you will find a luncheon at any price you desire, from 1 franc 25 centimes (14^d.), upwards-. After lunch a few minutes’ walk will take you to the Louvre and the Place du Carrousel. In this Place you will do well to pause a moment, to reconnoitre the extensive pile of buildings that surround you on every side, and the two palaces, the palaces of the Louvre and the Tuileries, that are on the right and left of you, as well as the triumphal arch which rises before the entrance into the chateau. After this, you will be able to spare a little time to inspect some of the galleries of paintings and curiosities which the Louvre contains. The Louvre may be entered any day of the week, Look in the Index for the names of the different places, and then to the page, where an account ot them, as well as their situation, is given. xvi INTRODUCTION. except Monday. On Sundays it is open to the public without restriction, and always closes at four in the afternoon. When you leave the Louvre, you would do well to take another Remise by the hour, drive through the Place de la Concorde, and the Champs Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe, which it will well repay you to mount. Should you like it you can prolong your drive to the Bois de Boulogne, remembering to visit the Chapel of Su Ferdinand , which is situated a hundred yards or so to the right, in the avenue opposite the Port Maillot. The Bois de Boulogne, in which two lakes and a handsome cascade have lately been constructed, is a most fashionable resort between the hours of 4 and 6 in winter, and from 7 to 9 in summer ; and here about the same time, when they are in town or at St. Cloud, the Emperor apxl Empress may often be seen. The charge for the Remise for coming outside the Barriere, it must be recollected, is three francs per hour, instead of two francs 50 cents.; but if you engage the Remise for a drive to the Bois de Boulogne only, or to and from, the fare is no more than for a drive of equal time within the Barrieres. On your return to the city, you will find good dinners at any of the Restaurants named in the introduction, after which amusement of every description will be open, to drive away the ennui of the next three or four hours. The Theatres, or the Circus, or one of the Operas, or some other diverting spectacles of the kind are always open ; but should none of these gay sights attract you, you will be much amused by walking along the Boulevards, taking your coffee or an ice on the outside of one of the Cafes, and watching the curious stream of human beings that rolls by you. Should your stay be prolonged for two days, you would do well to take a run down and see the chateau and gardens of Versailles. This is an occupation that will fill up the whole day. In the evening you will again be at liberty to select which of the many places of amusement you may like best. There are many gardens open after sunset, brilliantly lighted up with variegated lamps, where dancing and other gay scenes of delight take place; such as the Jardin Mobile , the Chateau des Fleurs , the Closerie de Lilacs , fyc. There are also in the Champs Elysees^ 11 cafes chant ant sf where you may hear pretty good singing and sip your coffee, or have an ice, or indulge in brandy and water, or beer, at your leisure. The Jardins alluded to above are not visited by the elite of the Parisian society, but they give to a foreigner a good insight into the habits and amusements of the French people. The Concert Musard, however, at the end of the Avenue D’Antin is attended by the elite. Admittance one franc ; good music, from 8 to 11 p.m. Should your stay extend over three days, a visit to Fere la Chaise , the Jardin des Plantes , the Gobelins Manufactory (should it be on a Wednesday or Saturday), the Pantheon , and the Hotel Cluny is recommended. An examination of these places will fully occupy your day until five or six o’clock when the evening attractions of Paris are again open to your choice, INTRODUCTION xvii Should your visit extend over four days, you will find the Chateau and Park of St. Cloud, a short distance out of town, and the Museums of the porcelain manufactory at Sevres, very interesting. You may go to St Cloud by the railway to Auteuil where an omnibus will be waiting to take you for two sous, by a pleasant drive through the Bois de Boulogne, the town of Boulogne, and across the Seine to the park gates, or by rail direct from the Place du Havre. Prom Sevres to St. Cloud is only a short walk through the park. If you are a good walker, you should visit the Chateau and Terrace of Meudon, about a mile and a half beyond Sevres on the hill. This spot commands a magnificent view of Paris and the river. Cabs may be obtained at St. Cloud to take you to Sevres and Meudon, should you prefer to ride. Should it be your intention to remain five days, on your return from Meudon* or Sevres, you should, immediately on your arrival in Paris, apply for permission to visit the Tuileries and the interior of the Hotel de Ville. If your stay be over a Sunday, you will find Church of England Service at the Marboeuf Chapel, Avenue Marbceuf, Champs Elysqes, at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.; and at the English Church in the Bue d’Aguesseau, opposite to the English Embassy, at 11a.m., 3f and 7^ p.m.; Church of Scotland Service at 3 p.m., at the Church of the Oratoire, near the Louvre; and American Protestant Service in the Rue de Berri, or you might witness mass at any of the principal churches. The Church of St. Roch is the best, on account of the music and singing, which are of the first class. The service commences exactly at ten o’clock. Should your visit extend over six days, the Musee des Beaux Arts, and the Musee d'Artillerie should be visited ; also St. Germain and the Abbey of St. Denis, which, though on different lines of railway, may easily be accomplished in a day. St. Denis should be seen first. Should you remain seven days, a trip to Pontainebleau, will be highly interesting ; and should you have more days than these, you would do wisely to go over some of those public places which the visitor for one day is invited to go to, and which he had scarcely time to inspect, as for example the Louvre, the Luxembourg, the Hotel des Invalides, the Champs de Mars, Sfc. GENERAL REMARKS FOR TRAVELLERS. In drawing up the following instructions, it has been presumed that the traveller, will have provided himself with Bradshaw's Continental Raihvay Guide , as indispen¬ sable to railway travelling on the'Coutment. xviii INTRODUCTION. What should be done in London.— PASSPORTS—MONEY—LETTERS, Under the liberal arrangements sanctioned by the present Imperial Government* British subjects are now admitted into France, without passports , by simply declaring their nationality. Those who desire admission to the public monuments, etc., should have their visiting cards stamped by the Special Agent, at the port of landing, or on the frontier; or, otherwise their cards can be stamped upon application to the Prefect of Police, at Paris; Rue du Harlay, near the Palais de Justice; open 9 to 4. Money. — See pp. xxxix. xl. of Bradshaw’s Continental Guide . Bank-notes are negociable in Paris, but sovereigns are the best coins to take to Paris, as they are readily changed, and generally at a premium. Do not on any account change- your money in London, or you will lose the premium which English gold or notes bring in Paris. An English sovereign will now exchange fo r 25 francs and fro m 2^ to 5 cents., at any respectable money changer’s in Paris. Bank of England notes at - the^same rate; but they are looked upon with suspicion, unless the party presenting them is known. Circular notes from a respectable London bank are the safest; but a commission is charged if changed at an hotel . As to expenses, 10s. to 2,0s. per head y> er day may be allowed. The latter sum will cover all charges of living in the best hotels, and travelling by first class railway, and the best places in the coach. Letters. —The traveller will find it convenient to have his letters addressed to him to the “Poste Restante.” They will be delivered on the passport or name-card being shown at the General Post Office in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau. There are now two posts daily (one in the morning and the other in the evening) leaving London for France. All letters for France go through the London post-office, and for the morning mail must be in the London office before 7 45 a.m., and the evening mail before 6 p.m. Postal Convention with France. —In accordance with the provisions of a new Postal Convention with France, the entire postage, British and French, chargeable upon Newspapers and other Printed Papers posted in the United King¬ dom addressed to France or Algeria, or, when they are conveyed by the French Mediterranean Packets, to any of the places in Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, at which France maintains Post Offices, must be paid in advance, and no further charge of any kind will be levied upon their delivery. Under the new arrangement many kinds of books and other printed matter, which have hitherto been liable to the letter rate of postage, will be forwarded at a greatly reduced charge ; and as the charges on newspapers and other periodical literature levied on delivery in France have, in most instances, been much greater than that now to be paid in advance a considerable reduction of postage will be made in their case also. INTRODUCTION. XIX The following Table shows the charge which must be paid on the Printed Papers above referred to :— Not exceeding 4 oz. Above 4 oz. and not exceeding 4 lb. Above 41 b. and not exceeding lib. Above lib. and not exceeding 141 b. Above 141b. aDd not exceeding 21b. For a Packet of British News-) papers duly registered atf the General Post Office forf Transmission abroad .) Unregistered Newspapers,^ 5. d. 0 1 s. d. 0 2 5. d. 0 4 5. d. 0 6 s. d. 0 8 Books, and all other print- > ed matter.) 0 3 0 6 1 0 1 6 2 0 and so on, adding twopence or sixpence, as the case may be, for each additional half-pound. The same rates of postage must be paid in advance upon newspapers and other printed papers addressed to any of the following countries and places, the corres¬ pondence for which is forwarded, as a rule, through Prance ; viz.,—Baden, Bavaria, Greece, Lucca, Majorca, Minorca, Modena, the Papal States, Parma, Placentia, Sardinia, Two Sicilies, Spain, Switzerland, Syria, Tripoli, Tunis, Tuscany, Vene¬ tian Lombardy, and Wurtemberg, or addressed to any other foreign country, and specially directed to be forwarded “ via France On this class of printed papers the rate paid in this country will cover the whole charge, either to the extreme frontier of Prance or to the port of disembarkation if they are conveyed from Prance by one of the French Mediterranean Packets. Upon Newspapers addressed to the Ionian Islands, specially directed to be sent via France , and upon Newspapers for Malta, specially directed to be sent “by French Packet via Marseilles ,” the same rates of postage must also be paid in advance ; but printed papers other than newspapers, addressed to the Ionian Islands and Malta will not be sent at a reduced rate of postage by way of Prance. They may, how¬ ever, be forwarded via Southampton, under the Colonial Book Post Regulations. The following is a list of the places in Turkey, Syria, and Egypt at which France maintains Post Offices; viz., Alexandria, Jaffa, Bey rout, Tripoli in Syria, Latakia, Alexandretta, Messina, Rhodes, Smyrna, Mytelene, Dardanelles, Gallipoli, and Constantinople. All newspapers, to be forwarded at the lower of the two rates mentioned above, must be posted within fifteen days from the date of publication; but newspapers of an older date may be forwarded at the rate set down for ordinary printed papers* If any printed paper, not a newspaper, be enclosed in the same packet with one or more newspapers, the whole will be chargeable at the higher of the two rates of postage-. Under the term “Printed Matter” are included periodical works other than INTRODUCTION. registered newspapers, stitched or hound books, pamphlets, sheets of music, cata¬ logues, prospectuses, announcements, and notices of every kind, whether printed, engraved, or lithographed. The following regulations must be strictly observed : 1. Every packet must be sent without a cover, or in a cover open at the ends or sides. 2. There must be no enclosure, except newspapers or other printed papers. 3. There must be no other writing or marks upon the newspapers or printed papers than the name and address of the person to whom they are sent, nor anything upon the cover but such name and address, the printed title of the papers, and the printed name and address of the publisher or vender who sends them. If any of the above regulations be disregarded, or if the whole postage be not paid in advance, the packets will either be detained or forwarded charged as unpaid letters. Newspapers addressed to the Mediterranean or the East Indies, and intended to lie sent ia the closed mails by way of Marseilles, will continue liable to the existing regulations, including the present rates of postage. The time required for conveying Letters, &c., to any part of France, can be ascertained by reference to Bradshaw’s Continental Railway Guide , and in very little more than this time the traveller may expect them at their appointed place. Way to get to France and Landing there.— See Bradshaw’s Continental Guide^ from, which the following is extracted:— ROUTES. Calais Koute.—L ondon (South Eastern Station, London Bridge) to Paris direct, nut Dover and Calais, 346 miles in 10|- hours, viz.:—Departure from London for Dover ( 1st and 2nd class express) at 8 35 p.m. ; arrival at Dover at 10 35 p.m. ; departure from Dover 10 40 p.m. ; departure from Calais 1 30 a.m.; arrival at Paris % 20 a.m. (See page 1, Bradshaw’s Illustrated Hand Booh to France.) Through tickets, 54s. 4d. and 41s. There are 22 miles only of sea by this route, which in the old coach days took 58 to 60 hours between London and Paris. Another direct train. (1st and 2nd class) starts at 7 30 a.m., reaching Dover at 9^ a.m., Calais a,t 12 £0 p.m., and Paris at 6 p.m.; through tickets, 54s. 4d. and 41s. Also by the London, Chatham, and Dover trains from Victoria (West End Station), at 8 p,m.. and 7 a.m. (1st and 2nd class express), leaving Dover and arriving at Paris at same times as above. Also a special express train (1st & 2nd class) at 9 45 a.m., and Dover at 12 15 p.m., arriving at Calais at 2 55 p.m., and Paris at 11 p.m. Same fares as by South Eastern route. By the direct trains registered luggage is examined only on arrival at Paris. The station, refreshment room, and douane at Calais, are close to the quay. Three departures from Calais for Dover daily. Calais may be also reached by the General Steam Navigation Company’s steamers, direct from London Bridge Wharf, twice a-week, in 8 to 9 hours. Fares Its. and INTRODUCTION. ■XXI 8s., or through 31s. 3d., 23s. 3d., and 17s. 8d. [As the Railway Trains are subject to change every month, the information given here respecting them had better be compared with Bradshaw's General Railway Guide. Boulogne Route. —London to Paris direct in about 10 hours, by South Eastern Railway and Packets from Folkestone, twice daily, according to tide. Through tickets, 48s. 2d. and 36s. 6d.; 3rd class (by night service only), 20s. Or by General Steam Navigation Company’s boats daily, direct from London Bridge Whaif, in 10 hours. Fares, 11s. and 8s.; or through, 25s., 21s., 18s., and 15s. Dieppe Route. —Direct, in 12 to 15 hours, by Brighton Railway, steamer from Newhaven to Dieppe, according to tide, and railway to Rouen and Paris.. See page xxv. Bradshaw's Illustrated Hand-Book to France. About 72 miles of sea passage. Through fares, 28s., 20s., and 15s. Havre Route. —By South Western Railway to Southampton, steam to Havre and railway to Rouen and Paris. See page xxv. Bradshaw’s Illustrated Hand-* Book to France. Through fares 28s. and 20s. N.B.—Steamer every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; sea passage 102 miles. Dunkirk Route. —By screw steamer direct from Irongate Wharf, two or three times a-week, in about 12 hours, to Dunkirk. Fares 10s. and 7s.; through, 31s., 23s., and 17s. 6d. No baggage, except it may be a small parcel, or a carpet bag (if at night) is allowed to be taken ashore by (he passengers, but is detained at the Douane (custom-house), where you may clear it yourself, or pay a porter (commissionmmes, as they are called) to clear it. A franc or two is sufficient. The regular charge when you clear your baggage is, for the Douane, per package, 7 sous (3§d.) if under 101b., 14 sous from 10 to 56lb., 1 franc above that weight; every package being charged, so that the fewer you have the better. This charge includes carriage to the railway station or to an Hotel; the carrier will, however, expect a few sous “pour boire.” When leaving a French port for England, a permis dembarquement may be had at the Douane one hour before the steamer starts, or between one and three p.m. when she leaves at night; or at any time on the arrival of a through train. Once on board you cannot go ashore again without special permission. You may bring back, free of duty, a pint of spirits, and half-pint of Eau-de-Cologne. By a new arrangement, luggage direct to London, by some of the trains on the South Eastern Railway, is not examined at Dover or Folkestone, hut at the London Bridge station. Luggage, also, in Steamers from abroad, is now examined by the officers of customs on board, between Gravesend and London. On alighting from the train in Paris, the passenger need give himself no anxietv about his luggage. What he has to do is quietly to follow the others, and he will enter a spacious room where he will find his trunk and boxes, as well as those of Ms feilow voyagers arranged on a long platform. Selecting his own, he will give up INTRODUCTION. Xxii the keys to the nearest officers, who are the customs officers for Paris. They will at their leisure proceed to unlock, open and examine his various packages, or most likely mark them without examination; and when they have satisfied themselves, re¬ deliver him his keys with permission to pass. The passenger will then ask a porter, who can easily be distinguished by his special dress, to take his trunks, &c., for him to a conveyance. Call a Cab. —We give the traveller the following advice. By all means call for a cab, as you will find a variety of omnibuses waiting at the station, ready to seize upon you and carry you to what they call a good Hotel, professedly for less than a cab. But their object is to drive you to one of their Hotels ; we say their Hotels because either the driver or conductor is invariably paid for each passenger he brings to the Hotel. This of course is made up for by the exorbitant charges which the keeper of the hotel to which you are conducted, manages to make. Choice of a Locality. —There are many parts of Paris in which a person intending to reside for some time, would find very commodious and cheap lodgings, which, however, would be perfectly unsuited for a traveller who wishes to spend only a few days, and to see as much in that limited time as he can. We therefore recommend him to take up his quarters somewhere near the Madeleine. This is the centre from which nearly all the principal monuments may be visited. In the neighbourhood are the Tuileries, the Champs Elysees, the Eue de la Paix, the Boulevards, the Louvre, the Place de la Concorde, the Place Vendome, the Palais Boyal, Eue de Eivoli, the principal Embassies, &c.; and a few moments’ walk will take you to either of the Operas or the principal Erench theatres. If the traveller intend to remain for some time, he will find suitable accommodation, either pensions or private lodgings in the Avenue des Champs Elysees, or in the streets leading out of it. This is certainly the most delightful place of residence in Paris, commonly called the “ English quarter ” by the Parisians, but it is not central; however, omnibuses continually traverse it for all parts of the town. Eare, inside, 3d.; outside, l|d. 4 Hotels. —Having made a choice of your locality, the next thing is the choice of your hotel. This we might observe should be made before arriving at the station, that you may at once order the cabman where to drive you, and being decided upon this point you will not suffer interruption from the importunities of the conductors of the omnibus. As it may be difficult for the traveller to determine where to put up on his arrival in Paris, without some idea of the hotels in this metropolis, we subjoin a list of the best. The principal hotels, such as Meurice’s, the Bristol, the Ehine, and des Princes, are first class—with first-rate charges—and therefore somewhat too expensive for the generality of English travellers, who will experience more attention and find greater comfort at others recommended in the following list. There are a great many hotels in Paris, some magnificent in appearance, INTRODUCTION. xxiii ■but dear and uncomfortable; others cheap, hut questionable. The following are carefully selected as deserving our recommendation:— Hotel des Deux Mondes et d’Angleterre, 8, Rue d’Antin, first-rate, cannot be too highly recommended for its comfort, cleanliness, and charges. Hotel de Lille et Albion, 223, Rue St. Honore, a well conducted good house. Hotel Bedeord, 17, Rue de 1’Arcade, near the Madeline, excellent in every respect. Hotel Wagram, Rue de Rivoli.—Good, very clean, and well conducted. Grand Hotel de Londres, Rue Castiglione, a remarkably good house, in a good situation. Grand Hotel Louvois, Place Louvois, in the Rue Richelieu, most centrally situated, and a well conducted, clean house. Hotel des Etrangers, 3, Rue Yivienne, worthy of the very highest recom¬ mendation. Grand Hotel ptt Louvre, situated between the Rue de Rivoli, the Rue St. Honore, and the Place du Palais Royal. One of the largest hotels in the world, and the charges are moderate for the princely accommodation afforded. Hotel de France et d’Angleterre (formerly Hotel d’Angleterre), 10, Rue des Filles St. Thomas, between the Rue de Richelieu and the Place de la Bourse, a first-rate house, and highly recommended. Grand Hotel du Diner de France et de l’Alliance Universelle, 11, Rue Lepelletier, and 16, Rue Lafitte. Hotel Folkestone, 9, Rue Castellane, very comfortable, and charges moderate. Hotel des Sept Freres, 8, Rue Grenelle, St. Honore, a good, comfortable, and moderate honse. Hotel Vouillemont, 13, Rue des Champs Elysees, near the Madeleine, in a good situation. Hotel de la Yille de Paris, 33, Place de la Yille L’Eveque, near the Madeleine, and the Champs Elysees. Boar d and lodging, 8 francs a day. Hotel Yictoria, Rue Chauveau la Garde. Grand Hotel de Lyon, 12, Rue des Filles St. Thomas, with a large frontage in the Rue de Richelieu, very comfortable, and charges moderate. Hotel de Normandie, 240, Rue St. Honore, good and moderate. Hotel des Etrangers, 24, Rue Tronchet. Hotel Bristol, and Hotel du Rhin, Place Vendome; both first class for families, but said to be expensive. Hotel Meurice, Rue de Rivoli, very good indeed. Hotel de France, Rue de Richelieu. Diner Europeen, Palais Royal, Galerie Yalois. Chateau de Chateaubriand, 19, Rue Chateaubriand, Champs Elysees, the best and most respectable boarding-house in Paris ; and the Villa Beaujou, 6, Rue Bal¬ zac, Champs Elysees, much frequented by the English. English spoken. INTRODUCTION. xxiv The principal Restaurants are sumptuous establishments, but a good dinner at one of the following houses will be found an expensive affair. Visitors should endeavour to make a party of three or four, and then, by ordering one dish for two persons, or two dishes for four, they can then have a considerable variety of particular dishes at a moderate price. The best houses in the Palais Royal are Vefour, les Trois Freres Provenpaux. The Maison Doree, the Cafe Anglais, on the Boulevards, or the Poissonnerie Anglaise in the Rue de Pdvoli, opposite to the new gardens of the Tuileries, are also excellent restaurants. As a general rule, however, it is better for the traveller to dine at his hotel, if there is a table d’hote, as these dinners are very good, and the wines better than those to be had at the Restaurants. The Parisians do not sit long over their wine, but adjourn to a Cafe to partake of a cup of Coffee, with a glass of Cognac. It is indeed a luxury to sit in front of one of the magnificent Cafes on the Boulevards, in the Palais Royal, or Champs Elysees, and sip a cup of this delicious and refreshing beverage as they make it in France. Public Conveyances. —One of the best features of Paris is the order, regu¬ larity, and civility with which the public conveyance system is arranged. The drivers of all hired carriages are under the strict surveillance of the police; and the penalties of the law are very severe against any who infringe the comfort of a Parisian, either by ill conduct or extortion. In every respect the system in England might be improved by adopting a few of the regulations that effect the French management. To a Londoner the prices will appear very economical. The cab is not taken by the mile, but by the course or by the hour. The course is any dis¬ tance between the Barrieres of Paris, or to the Bois de Bologne, but it should be observed that any stoppage, however slight, completes a course, and a new one is commenced. It will be therefore best for a person having many sights to see, to take a cab by the hour, the difference of which is very trifling. There are two sorts of cabs, those which stand under sheds, and those which stand in the open street. The former will be met within nearly every street, not more than two or three together in the same place; they are called voitures sous remise —remise signifying a coach-house; and they are numbered in red figures. The latter remain in long file in some open place or street, and are called voitures de place. The numbers on the voitures de place are yellow. Fares. —Voitures d e remise, from 6 a.m. to 12 30 midnight, four-wheeled, the, course, 2 francs ;—the hour, 2 francs 25 cents: two-wheeled, the course, 1 franc 50 cents—the hour, 1 franc 75 cents. From midnight to 6 a.m., four-wheeled, the hour, 3 francs ; two-wheeled, the hour, 2 francs 50 cents. Voitures de Place. —There are three kinds of Voiture de Place, the cabriolet , which is an open cab with a head to it; the coupe entirely”covered, and the fiacre a kind of ' R tyugham. INTRODUCTION. XXV Fares. —From 6 a.m. to midnight, cabriolet (rarely met with), the course, 1 franc 10 cents—the hour, 1 franc 50 cents; coupe, the course, 1 franc 25 cents—the hour; 1 franc 75 cents; fiacre, the course, 1 franc 40 cents—the hour, 2 francs. From midnight to 6 a.m., cabriolet, the course, 1 franc 75 cents—the hour, 2 francs 50 cents ; coupe, the course, 2 francs—the hour, 2 francs 50 cents ; fiacre, the course, 2 francs—the hour, 3 francs. In visiting places, and going by the hour, it is always cheaper to take a voiture de remise , because the horses are kept in better condition and go over the ground faster. The drivers expect always a few sous “pour boire” additional. But besides the cabs there are omnibuses by which the visitor may go from one part of Paris to another for six sous (3d). It may be, however, that the omnibus he enters does not go to the place he wishes, he will therefore be obliged to ask for a ticket of correspondence, by which when he leaves the omnibus he is in, which the conductor will indicate, he can get intQ another going in his direction; you pay immediately after enter ing. Shops. —The visitor cannot be too much on his guard against taking the advice of his Maitre dhotel as to the shops where he might wish to make purchases. In most instances the shop-keeper and the hotel-keeper play into one another’s hands, and a per centage is allowed for every customer thus introduced. To enable the visitor to rely upon himself as much as possible, and select his own shop for making purchases, we will only subjoin a few of the streets where the best and most reason¬ able business houses may be found. See Bradshaw’s Continental Railway Guide. First, there are the Boulevards, Eue de la Paix, Rue Castiglione, Rue St. Honore", Rue du Faubourg St Honore, Rue Vivienne, Rue Richelieu, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, Rue de Rivoli, the Palais Royale, and the Rue Montmartre, where goods are cheaper than in the “ West End.” But the visitor should avoid, if possible, shops where they speak English, as this accomplishment has to be paid for. For those who wish to change money they will find several good places in the Palais Royal, or on the Boulevards. Monteau x and Co. transact business with English houses; their offices are in the Boulevards des Italiens and the Palais Royal, 92; also McHenry, almost at the corner of the Rue de la Paix and the Boulevards; and Mr. Delapierre, 70, Rue de Faubourg St. Honore, who transacts business for the gentlemen at the Embassy. Post Office. —The Grand Post Office is in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau.. The Office is shut for Foreign Letters at Six o’clock. There is, however, another in the Rue La Fayette, which is open for letters to England until 7 20 p.m. Letter boxes are distributed about in different parts of Paris, and may easily be found ; but if you desire to pay a foreign letter, you must go to the central bureau of the district. The postage of a letter to or from England is now reduced to fourpence. xxvi INTROD U CTION. The following is a Table of French, coins. It will be observed that the French Tase the Decimal system of calculation:— 5 Centimes . 1 Sous, equal to about 1 half-penny, English. 20 Sous, or 100 Centimes ... 1 Franc „ nearly 10 pence, 100 Sous . 5 Franc-piece „ 4 shillings 20 Francs . 1 Napoleon „ 16 „ „ There are also gold pieces valued at forty and a hundred francs. Money accounts in France are kept in francs and centimes, or hundredths; the Aecimes or tenths, which come between, being seldom mentioned. 1 (silver) franc = 10 dficimes = 100 (copper) centimes = 20 sous or sols = lOd. English. (1 sous therefore == 5 centimes — |d.) 24 francs = 1 Louis d’or (gold) = 19s. 20 francs = 1 Napoleon (gold) = 16s. 100 francs = £4 The franc exceeds the old livre by 1| per cent. (1| centime.) The above equalities of French and English n but the prevailing rate has been adopted. £1 = 25 or 25 francs, 5 cents. According to the rate of Exchange. Is. = 1| franc or 25 sous. Id. = 10J centimes or 2 sous. The modern French gold coins are pieces of 10 fr., 20 fr., 40 fr., 50 fr., and 100 fr. The silver coins are pieces' of 20 centimes, 50 cents, or 5 franc, 1 franc, 2 franc, and 5 franc pieces, s will vary a little with the rate of exchange; A Metre, which is the basis of all French measures and weights, is equal to of an English yard nearly; and 1,000 metres (or a kilometre), are equal to about of a mile. A kilogramme (or “ kilo”) is 2^ English pounds weight. French Teacher. —Mr. Emile, 320, Rue St. Honore, a painstaking teacher, knowing English well, whom we have recommended for years past. Dancing.— Private lessons for gentlemen in all the fashionable dances, by M. Coulon, of the Grand Opera, assisted by Mademoiselle Emmeline, 320, Rue St. Honore. Machinery, Patents, &c. —Burnley, Mangles, and Co., agents for carrying out English inventions on the Continent. Sales of Machines effected , and the setting up and working of Machinery superintended. [Messrs, B. M. and Co. are practical men of considerable experience, with good connections in France, to whom we can confi¬ dently recommend Englishmen and Americans who may have business to transact on the Continent.] For the benefit of those who may be at a loss how to address themselves to either of the state officers, to obtain an order of admission into the pnblic building they wish to visit, we subjoin the following model, only suggesting that the title of address will require to be changed according to the person addressed. For example: if to a minister, d Monsieur le Ministre de -; if to a general, a Monsieur le General de - A MONSIEUR I.E MINISTRE DE-- Monsieur le Ministre, En ma qualitd d’etranger, en passant par cette ville, je prende la liberty de m’adresser h votre Excellence, pour solliciter l’extreme faveur d’une autorisation qui me permette de visiter — ■ (name of place) le-(date). En accddant a ma demande vous rendrez une veritable service, k celui qui a Fhonneur d’etre, avec le plus profond respect, Monsieur le Ministre, Votre trfes humble et fobs obeissant, INTRODUCTION. XXV11 COMMON FRENCH WORDS AND PHRASES. A few of the commonest phrases, however ill chosen or arranged they may he, are better than nothing to the inexperienced traveller 5 and we therefore add a short list for his benefit. Des Repas. Of Meals. Le Dejeuner Breakfast Le gouter, le dejeuner) a la fourchette j • Luncheon Le diner Dinner Le thfe Tea Le Souper Supper Le Manger, Of Eating. Un pain, du pain A loaf, bread Un petit pain A roll Du pain blanc White bread Du pain de menage Household bread Du pain bis Brown bread Du pain frais New bread Du pain rassis Stale bread La Carte. The Bill of T'c Du bouillon Broth Un consomme Jelly soup De la Soupe Soup Soup au vermicelle Vermicelli soup Soupe au riz Rice soup Soupe a la puree Pease soup De la viande Meat Des cotelettes de moutonMutton chops Un gigot A leg of mutton Des rognons Kidneys De l’agneau Lamb Du lard Bacon Du jambon Ham Du gibier Game Un pate A pie De la volaille Poultry Un poulet A fowl Un dindon Turkey Du poisson Fish Des soles Soles Des huitres Oysters Des legumes. Vegetables Uu chou A cabbage Un choufleur A cauliflower Des pommes de terre Potatoes Des oeufs Eggs Un oeuf An egg Des oeufs frais New laid eggs Des oeufs a la coque Boiled eggs Une omelette An omelet Une salade A salad Du Sel Salt Du poivre Pepper De la moutarde Mustard Des biscuits Sponge Cakes Des gateaux Cakes Du fruit Fruit Du fromage Cheese Du beurre frais Butter Du sucre Sugar Du the Tea Du cafe Coffee De la Boisson. Of Drink. De l’eau Water De l’eau rougie Wine and water Du vin Wine Du vin blanc White wine Du vin rouge Red wine Vin ordinaire, ou vin) de Bordeaux j - Country wine, claret Du vin de champagne Champagne Du vin de Bourgogne Burgundy Du vin d’Oporto Port wine Du vin de X€rbs Sherry De la bierre Beer De l’eau de vie, ducognacBrandy—cognac Un couteau A knife Une fourchette A fork Une cuiller A spoon Une assiette A plate Les peats qu’on trouve The dishes GENERALLy GENERAEEMENT CHEZ FOU f|D AT THE FRENCH LES RESTAURATEURS RFSTAT , RATFnRS en France. restaurateurs. LA CARTE. THE BILL OF FARE , Potages. Soups. Au macaroni Macaroni soup Au riz Rice soup Au vermicelle Vermicelli soup xxviii INTRODUCTION. A la julienne A la puree Consomme Bosuf. Beef. Boeuf au naturel Boiled beef Boeuf a la sauce tomate { B “» ce With ‘° mata B oeufa la sauce piquanteBeef with savoury sauce Beef with cabbage Ribs of beef Fillet of beef with gravy Roast beef with potatoes Sirloin of beef Neats’ tongue Palate of beef (Beefsteak in the Eng- ( lish manner Beefsteak w ; t ], potatoes A la mode beef Veal. Larded veal in gravy Fricandeau aux epinardsLarded veal with spinage Fricandeau a l’oseille Larded veal with sorrel „ . . v , , . . I Larded veal with bo J- Fricandeau a la chicoree j e d endive Cotelette de veau au) (Veal chops fried or naturel 5 ( boiled 5 Veal chops broiled in papers with sweet herbs Cotelette au jambon Veal chops with ham Cervelle appretee de) (Calf’s brains cooked differentes manieres) ( in different ways Tete de veau a la vin-) (Calf’s head with oil aigrette ( { and vinegar Tete de veau d’autres) ( Calf’s head in different manieres ( ( ways Langue a la sauce ) (Calfs tongue with sa- piquante ( ( voury sauce Pieds de veau a la vin- \ (Calfs feet with oil and aigrette J ( vinegar T., ,. , (Fricaseed veal with Blanquette de veau } wh ite sauce. Ris de veau Calf’s sweet bread Fraise de veau Calfs fry Moutonet AgneauMutton and Lamb CStelettes panees ” breld Cc.cle.tes en papU.Ces Boeuf aux choux Entrecote Filet saute Rosbif aux pornmesi de terre J Aloyau de boeuf Langue de boeuf Palais de boeuf Bifteck a l’Anglaise Bifteck aux pomrnesl de terre J Eoeuf a la mode Veau. Fricandeau au jus (Soup with chopped ( carrots and herbs Peas Soup Jelly soup Cotelettes au naturel Chops fried or broiled Gigot au jus aux haricots f e # r j“ be |^ « Rogons au vin de) (Kidneysdoneincham- champagne ( | pagne Pieds de mouton ala) (Trotters with oil and vinaigrette ( ( vinegar Rognons a la brochette Kidneys broiled Rognons aux truffes Kidneys with truffles Volaille. Poultry. Chapon au gros sel Capon (boiled) Chapon au riz, etc Capon with rice Poulet saute Chicken fried Poulet a la tartare Chicken devilled Cuisse de poulet en\ (Leg of a chicken In pa- papillote ( ( per with sweet herbs. Dinde truffee Turkey with truffles Dindonneau Young turkey Poulet aux champignons mUSb - Capilotade de poulet Chicken hashed 0 , , , . (Cold chicken in slices Salade de volaille { and vinegar Galantine de volaille Brawned fowl Poulet au truffee Chicken, with truffles Filets de poulet Sices of chicken (breast) Canard aux navets Duck and turnips Canard aux pois Duck and green peas. Caneton Duckling Pigeon a la crapaudine Broiled pigeon Fricassee de poulet Fricasseed chicken Gibier. Game. Cotelette de chevreuil Venison chops Filet de chevreuil Fillet of venison Perdreau appretees des) (Partridge dressed differentes manieres ( \ in different ways Perdreau en salmis Young partridge jugged Maurrettes differentes) L ar } iS variously dressed manieres ) Gibelotte de lapin Rabbit smothered Laperau saute aux ) ( Young rabbit with champignons ( ( mushroom sauce , (Woodcock dressed i» Becasse | different ways Becassine Snipes Canard Sauvage Wild duck Caille Quails Faisan Pheasant Ortolans Ortolans Grives Thrushes ° safmls SaUVagG ^ } Wild duck jugged Sarcelle en salmis Teal jugged INTRODUCTION XXIX Poisson. Fish. Saumon Salmon Turbot Turbot Raie Skate Morue Cod Truite Trout Sole Soles Merlans Whiting Maquereau Mackerel Eperlans Smelts A lose Shad Carrelet Flounder Homard Lobster Ecrevisse Cray-fish Huitres Oysters Brochet Pike Anguilles Eels Legumes. Vegetables. Asperges Asparagus Pointes d’asperges Heads of asparagus Choux de Bruxelles Brussels sprouts •Chou-fleur Cauliflower Haricots blancs French beans (shelled) Haricots verts French beans (green) Chicoree Endive Pommes de terre a la' ) (Potatoes sliced with maitre d’hotel ( ( parsley and butter Petits pois Green peas Epinards Spinage Artichauts Artichokes Celeri Celery Hors D'oeuvre . Extras. Omelette aux fines herbes | Omelet with sweet herbs Omelette au sucre Omelet with sugar Omelette aujambon Omelet fried with ham - paw’ of the old song). ) Oh allez-vous? ■Que voulez-vous ? Quel est le chemin de Paris ? ou Ayez labonte) de me montrer le chemin, &c.? ) Allez tout droit. Tournez a gauche (ou, a droite). Merci, ou, bien oblige. II fait beau temps. ■Le temps est couvert; il va pleuvoir; prenez) un parapluie. $ 11 fait mauvais temps; nous aurons de l’orage. Le soleil luit; il fait bien ehaud. Le soleil est couche Il fait clair de lune. Il fait un brouillard epais * Le vent est change. Il fait beaucoup de poussiere. Ce matin; ce soir. Demain matin; apres demain. Hier; avant hier. Il y a deux jours. Dans huit jours; ou, D’aujourd’hui en huit. Tous les jours. J’ai faim. Que voulez-vous manger Donnez-moi a boire. Donnez-moi un verre d’eau de vie. Apportez le diner. Donnez-moi des oeufs. Voulez-vous une tasse de cafe, (du vin, de la) vlande, du jambon, du the, de l’eau de vie ? j Comment vous portez-vous ? Fort bien; ou, Tres bien, je vousremercie. Half a dozen. What is that, Sir? What do you say ? I do not understand you. Where are you going What do yon want ? Which is the way to Paris ? or, Have the good* ness to tell me the way, &c. ? Go straight on. Turn to the left (or, to the right). Thank you. It is fine weather. It is cloudy weather, and going to rain; take an umbrella. It is bad weather; we shall have a storm. The sun shines; it is very hot. The sun is set. It is moonlight. There is a thick fog. The wind is changed. It is very dusty. What o’clock is it, sir? About two o’cloek- Quarter-past two. Half-past two. Quarter to two. Five minutes to two It is twelve (noon). To-day, This morning; this evening. To-morrow morning; day after to-morrow. Yesterday; day before yesterday. Two days ago. In a week. Every day. I am hungry. What will you eat ? Give me something to drink. Give me a glass of brandy. Bring the dinner. Give me some eggs. Will you take a cup of coffee, (some wine, meat ham, tea, brandy) ? How do you do ? Very well, thank you. INTRODUCTION. xxxiii Je suis Anglais. Parlez-vous Anglais ? Soyez le bien-venu, Monsieur. Ou demeure Monsieur A ? II demeure Rue B. Appelez-moi un fiacre (ou cabriolet) Yous pouvez aller par la diligence, ou prendre' une chaise de poste. A quelle heure la diligence part-elle d’ici? Combien prend-on par place? ou, Combieni prenez-vous ? J Combien de jours serons nous en route. Quelle route prenez-vous ? Quel est le meilleur chemin? !La route qui passe par B. est la plus courte. Combien de-- a — ? A qui est ce chateau ? Quel est le nom de cet endroit ? Y-a-t-il des cabinets de tableaux ? Quel magnifique paysage! Comment appelle-t-on cette ville Ou nous arretrons-nous ? I am English. Do you speak English ? Sir, you are welcome. Where does Mr. A. live ? He lives in B. street. Call a coach (or cab). You may go by the stage coach, or take a post chaise. When does the coach start ? What is the fare ? or, what do you charge ? How many days will it take ? Which way do you go ? Which is the best road ? The road through B. is the shortest. How far from-to-? Whose seat is this ? What is the name of this place? Are there any pictures to be seen ? What a beautiful country I What town is this ? Where shall we stop ? •Quand partirez-vous ? Au point du jour, or, a la maree. Nous allons partir. Quand nous embarquons-nous ? Combien de temps serons-nous en mer ? Jeme sens mal, je puis a peine me tenir) sur les jambes; la tete me toume. j Je loge a l’hotel de C. Quel est le meilleur hotel; ou, la meilleure, auberge ? \ Un diner a table d’hote. Un diner seul. A quelle heure voulez-vous diner ? On a servi. Youlez-vous un peu de soupe; ou, de potage ? Non, je vous remercie, je commencerai par dui poisson. < Permettez que je vous presente du boeuf. De quel vin voulez-vous ? Garmon, donnez-nous une bouteille de vin de) Bourgogne. j Vous enverrai-je une tranche de ce gigot ? Vous servirai-je des legumes ? Vous servirai-je des pommes de terre ? Pas davantage. Garmon, changez cette assiette. Uue cuiller, s’ il vous plait. C When do you depart ? At day break, or, high water. We are going directly. When do we go on board ? How long shall we be at sea ? I am very sick; I can hardly stand on my legs, my head turns round. I am staying at the Hotel de C. Which is the best inn ? A dinner at the ordinary. Dinner alone. At what time do you wish to dine ? Dinner is on the table. Will you take soup ? No, I thank you, I will take some fish. Allow me to offer you some beef. What wine will you take ? Waiter, bring us a bottle of Burgundy. Shall I send you a slice of mutton ? Will you take some vegetables 1 Will you take some potatoes ? Not any more. Waiter, change this plate. Give me a spoon. xxxiv INTRODUCTION. Je vous remercie, ’est assez. Mettez les verres sur la table. Apportez-oi un verre d’eau. Garcon, un bouteille vin ordinaire. Donnez-nous le deert. Voulez-vous avoir la bonte de sonner? Thank you, that’s enough. Put the glasses on the table. Bring me a glass of water. Waiter, a bottle of ordinary wine. Let us have the dessert. Be so good as to ring the bell. Le the est servi. Combien vous devons-nous ? Je desire avoir la note. Yoici la note Monsieur. Voici votre argent. Pouvons-nous coucher i many streets, squares, and quays, added to the beauty and importance of the place; the Tuilleries and Louvre continued; and every¬ where embellishments vigorously executed. When Louis XIV. mounted the throne, he lent a great part of his restless energy to the improvement of Paris. In his reign, more than thirty churches, and a corresponding number of streets were built. The Hotel des Invalides, the Observatory, the Colonnade of the Louvre, and the Pont Royal were under¬ taken. The Champs Elysees was improved; the Institute de France; and the manufac¬ ture of the Gobelins tapestry established. The Portes St. Denis and St. Martin, erected in commemoration of two victories; and the Boulevards became a promenade of general resort. In the two following reigns, magnificent HISTORICAL, ETC. hotels, or private mansions were built in the faubourgs of St. Germain and St. Honore; the foundations of the Pantheon, St. Sulpice, and the Madeleine laid; the Place de la Concorde beautified, from whence it de¬ rived the name of Place de Louis XV.; the manufactory of porcelain removed from Vin¬ cennes to Sevres; the Ecole Militaire and College de France instituted, the Jardin des Plantes enlarged; and several theatres and opera houses built. Paris was also encircled by a wall, enclosing 8,560 acres. The political storm which swept over France at the end of the last century, carried away many of the finest of the ancient monuments of the capital. But under the Directory, and the Consular and Imperial governments, new im¬ provements were pressed forward with vigour; and the city began to assume an aspect of unwonted magnificence. The Place du Car¬ rousel was enlarged; the northern gallery of the Louvre, and the Rue de Rivoli commenced; spacious markets were projected; and three handsome bridges thrown over the river. Since 1815, the hand of renovation and em¬ bellishment has not been slack. The Place de la Concorde has been remodelled; the Obelisk de Luxor brought from its distant pedestal, where it had rested three thousand years, and reared in the centre, while two magnificent fountains have been constructed on either side of it; the Arc de l’Etoile has been completed; the ■church of the Madeleine opened for public wor¬ ship ; the Hotel de Ville renewed; the exterior of Notre Dame cleansed; the Palais du Quai d’Orsay, and the Palais des Beaux Arts finished; several new and open streets con¬ structed through the densest and unhealthiest parts of the city; handsome houses and bridges erected; and Paris adorned with an infinity of superb monuments. But nothing can equal the enterprise of the present govern¬ ment; every hour produces some fresh im¬ provement ; and Paris, as if by the stroke of a magician’s wand, is every day endued with greater splendour. The completion of the new Palace of the Louvre, the splendid new Rue de Rivoli, the Boulevard de Sebastopol, and the new Boulevard in the environs, with the Halles Centrales, the Pont d’Alma, and the Bois de Boulogne, will mark the epoch of the reign of Napoleon III. The population of Paris, which, in the fifteenth century, contained only 100,000 souls, and under Louis XIV., 500,000 souls, now amounts to about 1,500,000. DESCRIPTIVE. Paris, the metropolis of France, is one of the largest and richest cities of Europe. It is situated in a valley on both banks of the Seine. The river crosses it from east to west, dividing it into two nearly equal parts; it then divides itself into two branches, which again unite after forming three considerable islands. The communication between the banks of the river and the islands is effected by a great number of bridges, many of which are remarkable for the beauty of their construction, and join the quays, which are intended rather for ornament than for business. The environs do not ex¬ hibit the same variety as those of London; instead of the gardens, parks, and country seats which surround our great metropolis, Paris, on several sides, presents large tracts of uninclosed corn fields. The stream of life in the great streets, crowd of wagons, car¬ riages, and horsemen, is not so great as in the neighbourhood of our metropolis. Most of the streets, however, are wide, airy, watered by numerous fountains, and full of magnifi¬ cent hotels and shops. A history of Paris is, to a considerable degree, a history of France, so much has this city, during the last centuries, concentrated in itself all the vital action of France. The preponderance of Paris over all France, not only in a political sense, but in literature, arts, customs, &c., is immense, HISTORICAL, ETC. 3 and has been most strikingly manifested during the revolutions of the last century. Paris is, without doubt, one of the most charming and luxurious capitals in the world. It would be difficult to say whether Pleasure built Paris, or took up her abode within its walls after it was built. There is such a perfect adaptability in its position, and construction, to all the ends and purposes of that fascinating goddess, that either suggestion would be equally probable. In its climate, we find that happy medium of temperature, which neither banishes her votaries to the fire side for the greater part of the year, nor enervates them ' by an intolerable heat, so as to be incapable I of exertion in her service. There is, more- | over, a charm in the very aspect of Paris, in ! her boulevards, her gardens, her public pro- [ menades, which produces a powerful fascination upon the senses, whilst there are few spots that have not some peculiar grace with which ' to attract the eye. Standing on the Pont du Carrousel, a picture, rich with beauty, presents itself. Towards the east, and immediately before you, stands out, in bold relief, the He de la i Cite, with its mass of irregular, tall, white I houses; the solemn towers of Notre Dame; the gorgeous pinnacle of the Sainte Chapelle; the solid domes of the Palais de Justice; and the spired turrets of the Conciergerie. The river, descending by two channels, and here uniting, adds a peculiar grace to the scene, i Immediately on our left extends the long line of lofty street, abutting on the Quais, the houses of which gleam in the warm light of the sun and blue azure of the heavens. Sometimes a I huge pile of building; sometimes a high Gothic tower; sometimes a colossal statue; sometimes j a tiny spire rears itself in the midst. On the other side stands the Institute of France, with its domed centre, and circular wings; and ! between these two lines of buildings rolls the swift current of the Seine, animated by the perpetual motion of boats, and the presence of innumerable floating-houses, decorated with flags and a profusion of flowers. If we turn to the west, a no less delicious picture presents itself. On the right, the elegant facade of the Louvre, and the thickly-leaved avenue of the Tuilleries. On the left, the Quai de Voltaire and the Palais d’Orsay (behind which, the river loses itself by a graceful bend), interrupt the view; whilst beyond, the verdurous heights of Chaillot and Passy, dotted with shining houses, close a scene of unwonted beauty. There are few streets in London which will bear comparison with the Boulevards of Paris; they occupy the space originally appropriated to the defence of the city. This space has been converted into wide and magnificent streets, in the centre of which is an unpaved road, and on each side of the road is a row of trees, and between each row of trees and the row of houses are wide asphalte walks for the accommodation of the pedestrians. The waving line which these streets assume, adds greatly to the beauty of the Boulevards; the eye cannot reach the end of the prospect, and the uncommon width is productive of no vacuity or dulness; so active are the move¬ ments ot carriages and passengers, and so lively the scene presented in the shops, the hotels, and the coffee-houses, on either side. The massy stone structures of Paris appear to greater advantage here than in the narrower streets. On the southern side of Paris the Boulevards extend a still greater length, and are planted with trees, but they are not con¬ sidered to equal those on the other side of the city. The banks of the Seine present but few attractions to the visitor, except in the quarter of the Tuileries, where, on one side are the Louvre and the Tuileries, with its gardens, and on the other, from the Palais du Corps Legislatif to the Pont Neuf, a succession of fine buildings. 4 TUILERIES. But it is not here that we pause to exhaust the beauties of Paris. We shall everywhere find something to attract us, something to admire; so that, whether we consider its palaces, its private edifices, its public monu¬ ments, its churches, its casernes, its arcades, or any of its ten thousand places of amusement, we must allow that Paris is unrivalled as a city of beauty, or as a city of pleasure Since 1852, 3,000 houses have been de¬ molished to make way for improvements, and more than 8,000 have been built, in a peculiarly handsome and substantial style. On the 1st January, 1860, the bounds of the city were extended to the fortifications, in consequence of which, the old barrieres or octroi gates have been removed, and the arrondissements increased from 12 to 20; the new ones being styled Gobelins, Observatoire? Vaugirard, Passy, Batignolles - Monceaux, Butte - Montmartre, Buttes - Chaumout, and Menilmontant. This enlarged area is 19,280 acres, or 30 square miles, within a double circle of boulevards, the newer and outer circle of which is still in course of construction. The northern boulevards are 5,000 metres long, and the southern 16,000 metres; and the walls surrounding the city are pierced with upwards of 50 gates. The magnificent new Boulevard de Sebastopol, which, unlike the other boulevards, runs through the city, ex¬ tends from the Strasbourg railway terminus in the north, across the river, to the Lycee St. Louis, on the south side, in which direction it corresponds with the ancient Roman road to Orleans. It is 3,000 metres long, being in this respect second only to the Rue de Rivoli; which, having been carried out in a line with the Rue St. Antoine, is now the longest street in Paris (3,146 metres), and is at right angles to the Boulevard de Sebastopol. FIRST DAY. THE TUILERIES—PLACE DU CARROUSEL—LOUVRE—ST. GERMAIN l’AUXERROIS—PALAIS ROYAL—FONTAINE MOLIERE—THEATRE DU PALAIS ROYAL—RUE DU REMPARTS. THE TUILERIES. The Tuileries and the Louvre, which now form, as it were, but one grand building, will be the primary object of attraction to the visitor, the former as being intimately connected with the modern history, the second with the fine arts, of France. This splendid palace is situated along the side of the river Seine; and fronted on the west by the gardens of the Tuileries, the Place de la Concorde, and the Champs Elysees. On the spot where it now stands, existed formerly, tile-fields, from whence the name is derived, the word Tuilerie signifying a tile-field, or mo re properly a tile-kiln. These fields were converted into gardens, and laid out in 1665, according, to the taste of the age of Louis XIY. by Le Notre, but have since his time undergone considerable alteration. These gardens form a grand parallelogram, containing about 67 acres, and are flanked by the Rue de Rivoli on the north, and the Seine on the south. They consist of flower-beds and public walks in front of the palace, a grove of trees in the centre, and another walk and flower-beds on the western side of the grove. Two elevated avenues of lime trees run parallel with the Rue de Rivoli and the Seine. A sunk fence with a sloping green sward and white stone finish- ’He" luileries Tile Court TUILERIES. 5 ings separates a portion of the flower garden in front of the Tuileries, and this portion now, as well as the rest, is open to the public. An elegant new bridge, of white stone, crosses the southern avenue and leads to the terrace which is next to the Seine. A Laocoon and a Diana in bronze, amongst other statues, ornament this garden, and on each side of the road-way leading up to the grand entrance may be also seen bronze figures of the Sicilian Knife Grinder and Venus sitting on a Tortoise . Three circular basins, with jets d’eau, and full of gold and silver fish, ornament the public gardens; and around the centre one are collected several fine groups of statuary, among which AEneas rescuing Anchises and heading Ascanius, the Death of Lucretia , and Atlas changed into a rock , may easily be dis¬ tinguished. On the north side, parallel with the Rue de Rivoli, runs the Allee des Orangers, So called from the orange trees , which in summer are brought out and arranged along it. At the further extremity is a fine Grecian statue of Meleager. The horse-chesnut trees, which form the principal trees in the grove, have long been celebrated for their size and beauty. Beneath them, a most agreeable shade may be obtained; and in the afternoon of a sunny day, crowds of people swarm to it, and paying their two sous for a chair, or four sous for an arm chair, enjoy an hour or two’s recrea¬ tion. In the afternoons of Mondays, Wed¬ nesdays, and Fridays, from five to six o’clock a military band_practises here, when the weather is fine, and adds greatly to the charm of the place. This grove is divided by a broad open avenue, leading from the pavilion de l’Horloge, to the Place de la Concorde, and used on state occasions as a carriage way up to the Tuileries. From this avenue, a fine view of the Obelisk de Luxor, the Avenue de Neuilly, and the Triumphal Arch at the Barrifcre de l’Etoile may be obtained. The best time, how¬ ever, for viewing this scene, is the evening,when the sun, being in the west, lights up the whole with a peculiar radiance. On either side of the broad avenue are open spots amongst the trees, converted into small gardens, and deco¬ rated with statues. The semicircular banks of white marble nearest the Tuilleries, containing the nude figures of a man and a woman, were designed by Robespierre, and intended for the seats of a court of old men, which after the manner of the ancient Greeks, were to preside over the games to be held in honour of the god Germinal. There are also a Centaur conquered by Cupid, a Hercules in his youth , and a fine Boar in marble, beneath the trees. At the eastern extremity, figures of ancient Soman and Greek celebrities are ranged alternately with some beautifully-executed marble vases. On the west side is the second garden. In the centre is a fine octagonal basin, with a jet d’eau, which, when the waters are in full play, throws up a stream to a height considerably above the level of the trees. La Petite Provence is a name given to the parterre on the northern side, from the genial character of its position, which faces the south, and is sheltered from the eastern and northern winds. Here invalids and nurses and old men flock in abundance. The building on the elevated avenue on the south side is the orangerie , where the orange trees are kept during the winter months. Allegorical statues of the Seasons, the principal rivers of France, and the Muses, adorn this garden. To the west is the gateway leading into the Place de la Con¬ corde ; on either side is a fine group in marble, representing Victory , Mercury, and Fame, on winged steeds. A shady terrace faces the Place , from which a good view of it and the river beyond may be had. PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. The palace was commenced in 1564, as a resi¬ dence for Catherine de Medicis, the plans of the building being furnished by Delorme and Builant. The central pavilion, now called the 6 PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. Pavilion de 1’Horloge, is the oldest part; the adjoining wings and two low pavilions were next added; and at length the building was extended to its present length by Henry IV., and terminated by the two pavilions, the pavi¬ lion Marsan and the pavilion de Flore. Louis XIII. first took up his residence here; Louis XIY. occasionally lived here during the build¬ ing of the chateau of Versailles; in the reign of Louis XYI. it was only occupied by persons connected with the court, but, after the restoration, it became habitually a royal residence. When Louis Phillippe and his family were expelled, it was proposed to convert it into an asylum for invalid workmen. This, however, was not carried out, but it became a hospital for the wounded in the insurrection of June the same year, and in 1849, the annual exhibition of paintings was held there. It is now the residence of the emperor, and may be seen on applying to M. le Governeur du Palais des Tuileries, whenever the emperor is from town: during his residence there, however, it is impossible to obtain admission. The interior of the palace of the Tuileries has, since the present reign, undergone con¬ siderable improvement and embellishment, and been most tastefully and sumptuously decorated. Nothing has been omitted that could give efficiency to the splendour of the imperial residence. On occasions of grand festivals and court balls especially, when the whole magnificence of the recent arrangements is thrown out into high relief by a blaze of brilliant light, it is affirmed by persons the most experienced in such spectacles, that nothing has ever surpassed the gorgeous effect which the tout ensemble of the interior of the palace then presents. An attempt at repre¬ senting it in words would be vain. The visitor must view the saloons and galleries for himself, and then judge of their magnificence. Amongst the rooms of most interest to him will be that which was formerly called the Grand Cabinet du Roi, where Louis Philippe consented to his abdication; the Salon Bleu , the reception room of the first emperor; the Gallerie de Diane. 176 feet long by 82 broad; the Salle des Marechaux , a fine room, hung with portraits of the chief marshals of France, under Napoleon I., viz., Soult, Massena, Jour- dain, and Macdonald, and embellished with busts of celebrated generals; the gallery leading out of the Salle des Marechaux, 140 feet long by 35 feet broad, and the Salon de la Chapelle, where the emperor and empress hear mass when they are in town. The wing flanking the Ru de Rivoli was formerly the residence of the Duchess of Orleans and her suite. Leaving the Tuileries we find ourselves on the Place du Carousel. That part of the Place which is enclosed by a barrier of elegant iron railing, is properly called the Court of the Tuileries, and was separated from the public place by the first Napoleon. The Place derives its name from a tournament which was held here by Louis XIY. in 1662. At the grand entrance into the court stands a triumphal arch forty- five feet high, erected in 1806 by the then emperor, at an expense of 56,000f. Eight Corinthian columns of red Languedoc marble, with bronze bases and capitals, decorate the arch, and support the entablature, above which is a car and four horses in bronze, modelled after the original group on the piazza of St. Mark at Venice. Colossal figures of Victory, Peace, History, and France, surmount the stone bastions of the two gate¬ ways on either side of the arch. On the south side runs the long gallery which connects the Louvre with the Tuileries, and contains the French national collection of pictures; on the north is a corresponding gallery commenced by Napoleon I., and partially finished by him, but since completed by the present emperor. It had been intended by Percier and Fontaine, the architects of the first Napoleon, to erect a fountain, issuing from an enormous Rt x- DEI-CHAUSSEE . premier etage o «; ■q vt& S3 ninny sivnid was rn—^ £ u » p ® 5* .5* S-* 3* g 3 *8 - S» 5 M £\ B H a LOUVRE. 7 ock in th« centre of this place, to hide an ' rreparable architectural defect which exists 1 n the construction of this vast square. This vas not, however, put into execution, hut two ateral buildings have been erected, forming part of the whole, and in the centre of the square a parterre has been formed, planted with trees, which serve to hide the defect. At the extreme end of the Carousel is the Louvre.—On the site of the present palace stood formerly a castle, far outside the precints of the ancient Paris. This chateau is said to have been the hunting seat of king Dagobert, and called Louveterie , or wolf-hunting establish¬ ment. It was remodelled, fortified, and con¬ verted by Philip Augustus in 1200 into a state prison, and by Charles Y. into his trea¬ sury and library. Francis I. however, de¬ molished the entire building, determined to raise a more handsome one in its stead. Accordingly Pierre Lescot was ordered to supply the design, and the new palace was commenced in 1541. During the reign of Francis and that of his son, the wing now called the Gallery of Apollo was finished; under Henry IY. considerable additions also were made, but Louis XIV. wishing to com¬ plete it, at once appealed to all the architects of Europe, to send in plans. That of the Chevalier Bernini pleased the monarch, and he was sent for from Italy, but the capricious interference of the monarch disgusted the architect, who returned to his native country, after a twelvemonths’ sojourn, leaving the phy¬ sician Perrault, whose designs were afterwards adopted, to carry on the work. The attention of the king, however, was more directed towards the chateau of Versailles, and the works of the Louvre were suffered to relax, so that the building was not completed until Napoleon lent his energetic hand to it, when it was accomplished by Messrs. Perrault and Fontaine, two hundred and fifty years after the first foundations were laid. The Louvre was used as a place of residence by Charles IX., the persecutor of the Huguenots: the window is shewn from whence he viewed the massacre on the eve of St. Bartholomew, 1562. It was also the residence of Henry III., Henry IY., Louis XIII., and also by- Henrietta, widow of Charles I. of England. Since the time of Louis XV., who spent his minority here, it has been given up to the exhibition of works of art, though occasionally it has been used for state ceremonies. On the 28th and 29th of July, 1830, the Louvre was attacked by the people, and obstinately de¬ fended by the Swiss guard. Those who fell on the occasion were buried beneath the green sward at the foot of the colonnade next to the Seine. They were, however, subsequently disinterred, and their remains deposited in the vaults beneath the column of July, on the Place de la Bastile, which was erected in com¬ memoration of that event. On the two sides of the chief entrance to the Musees are en¬ graved, “1541, Francois I commence le Louvre.—1564, Catherine de Medicis com¬ mence les Tuilleries.” “ 1852—1857, Napo¬ leon III reunit les Tuileries au Louvre.’’ The attention of the visitor should be es¬ pecially directed to the superb colonnade, consisting of twen ty-eig ht double Corinthian pillars, which adorn the eastern front of the Louvre. This facade, by the beautiful sym¬ metry of its parts, the fine execution of its- ornaments, the just economy of their distri¬ bution, and by the imposing grandeur of its extent, is justly admired as a chef-d’oeuvre in> the architecture of the age of Louis XIV. The southern front, by the same architect, is also very fine.’ Like the eastern front it has a highly ornamental pediment, and is beauti¬ fully decorated with forty Corinthian pilastres The northern front consists of a central pa¬ vilion, with two lateral ones, slightly but tastefully ornamented. The western front is intended to harmonize with the buildings . erected in the Place Napoleon. Within the court, the top and bottom stories of this facade have been adopted as patterns for the corres- ' ponding ones of the other sides of the quad- > rangle. The lower storey is composed of a > series of circular arcades, divided by Corinthian s LOUVRE. piastres, with, a lofty window beneath each arch. The windows of the second storey are tastefully adorned with carved and triangular pediments, a pillar of the Composite order dividing each window from the one adjoining. The windows of the upper storey are splen¬ didly ornamented with groups in sculpture, trophies, &c. The principal gateway to t he Louvre occupies the centre of this facade, and bears the name of the Pavilion de_ VHorloge. This pavilion is surmounted by a quadrangular dome, supported by gigantic Caryatides by Sarrazin. The various projections of this side are richly ornamented with sculpture. All the gateways are surmounted by pediments, which have in their tympans sculptures by Couston, Ramey, and Lesueur. Two ranges of Doric pillars, fluted, with a carriage road in the middle, form the southern entrance; pillars of ■different styles of the Ionic order, distinguish ■those of the northern and western; Doric, those of the eastern vestibule. The Court of the Louvre is also equally striking, as being one of the finest in Europe. It is lighted by 24 beautiful bronze lamps; its centre laid out in bitumen, bordered with beds of grass and shrubs, and surrounded with a low railing of cast iron. A series of gardens enclosed by ele¬ gant iron railings, ornamented with laurel wreaths encircling the imperial “ 1ST.” surround the whole of the palace, terminating at the new w r ing opposite the Rue de Rivoli. The southern wing contains the Imperial •stables, in which, among other horses, are 'th'6'se'ndden by the Emperor at Solferino and Magenta; and the new Salle des Etats, 138 feet long and 69 wide, where the chief bodies of the state are received by him. It com¬ municates with the picture galleries. The inauguration of the new Louvre took place here in 1857. A series of galleries runs to the eastward from the Salle Egyptien en¬ tirely round the building. Amongst the rooms of peculiar interest is the Musee des Souve- rains , composed of five rooms, namely; Cham~ bre d'Anne dVAutriche , Chambre a Coucher de Henri IV., Salon de Henri IV., Salle des Bour¬ bons , and Salle de VEmpereur. Here may be seen missals elaborately bound, belonging to various queens, and of a very early date; the chair of king Dagobert, a splendid armoire a bijoux , once Marie Antoinette’s, of beautifully coloured wood, inlaid with pearl and jewels; the swords and sceptres of various monarchs, the crown of Charlemagne, and his sceptre, sword, and hand of justice, the armour of Henry II. and III. and Louis XIV.; the coronation robes of Napoleon and Charles X.; the tent-bed of the former, and some of the clothes he wore at St. Helena; the chapel of the Order of the Holy Spirit, and a variety of other very interesting curiosities. In the centre of the Salle des Bourbons may be seen a magnificent casket, presented by Cardinal Richelieu to Anne d’ Autriche, and at the end opposite, the font used at the baptism of Philip Augustus, St. Louis, and the Comte de Paris. The font is of silver, beautifully chased. It had previously occupied a posi¬ tion in the chapel of Vincennes.—The Salle de VEmpereur has peculiar interest, from its exhibition of various articles of dress belonging to Napoleon I., such as the hat he wore when at St. Helena, the handkerchief used on his death¬ bed, &c., &c. The Musee de la Marine, which occupies the third storey, is also of interest; it contains models of vessels of all descriptions, of forts and guns; plans of the different naval arsenals of France, and everything connected with or relating to the improvement of the marine department. The ground-floor on three sides of the Louvre is taken up with the Musee des Antiquites Americaines , and the Musees de la Sculpture du Moyen Age et de la Renaissance. As the visitor will perhaps be perplexed by the multitude of pictures before him, and have but a short time to select those most worthy LOUVRE. 9 of his regard, it may be as well to assist him by pointing out a few of the best of the most celebrated masters, who have formed schools and had a host of imitators; though this enumeration must not be taken as anything more than an aid, nor prevent the visitor from studying as many of the others as his time will admit of. / SALON CARRS. Raphael. —La belle Jardiniere (375) estima¬ ted at 1,6007. St. Michael treading the Dragon under his feet (382) Murillo. —Two paintings of The Immaculate Conception (546.) One was bought at the sale of Marshal Soult’s collection in 1852 for 22,000?. by the Emperor, and given by him to the Louvre. Leonardo da Vinci. —Portrait of Mona Lisa (484) estimated at 3,6007. Paul Veronese. —The Marriage Feast at Cana (104) estimated at 40,0007. Magdalene wiping the feet of Jesus with the hair of her head (103), estimated at 6,0007. Correggio. —Sleep of Antiope (28), estimated at 20,00 07. Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine (27), es¬ timated at 14,0007. Francia. —Ahead (318). Vandyke. —Charles I. (142), a duplicate of this one is in the royal gallery at Hamp¬ ton Court. Titian. —Portrait of his mistress (471), esti¬ mated at 1,8007. Christ carried to the Tomb (465), 8,0007. Ribera. —Adoration of the Infant Jesus (553), estimated at 1,6007. Gerard Dow. —Administering a Cordial to a Sick Lady (121). THE LONG ROOM. Raphael. —Portrait of Balthazar Castig- lione (385), estimated at 2,000/. D Murillo. —Jesus and his Mother together with John (548). Guido. —The Magdalene (329), estimated at 4007. Leonardo da Vinci.— The Virgin amongst Rocks (482), estimated at 16,0007. Rubens. —Series of Allegories. Titian. —Portrait (462). Ruysdael. —Sea View (471 Cuyp. —Meadow Scene with Cows (104). Paul Potter. —Do. do. (400). Rembrandt. —Tobit and the Angel. Poussin. —Plague Scene (202), and several others. Teniers. —Interior of an Inn (518). Lorraine Claude. —Twelve exquisite paint¬ ings. Canaletti. —Views of Venice. Caracci. —The Salutation of the Angel (126) The Nativity (134) estimated at 4,0007. Salvator Rosa. —Battle Scene (360), esti¬ mated at 2,0007. Several fine landscapes by Van der Meulan. Fish, flesh, and fowl by Snyders, &c. The Louvre is rich in Italian productions of the highest order, since these rooms contain fifteen paintings by Raphael; twenty-two by Titian; twenty-three by Guido; nine by Leonardo da Vinci; three by Correggio; eleven by Canaletto; twenty-six by Annibale Caracci; and a considerable number by Ru¬ bens. Those amongst the French masters, to whose works attention may be drawn, are, Lebrun, David, Mignard, Jouvenet, Casanova , Creuze, Guerin, Leopold and Hubert Roberts, Vernet, cj-c. The Louvre is open every day of the week t from ten till four, except Monday, which day is reserved for cleansing purposes. On leaving the Louvre and traversing the quadrangle, whose symmetrical proportions the visitor has already been admiring, a walk of three minutes will bring him to the gor¬ geously decorated church of St. Germain VAuxerrois, opposite the eastern faf every kind. Beneath the trees are placed some graceful fountains, and, further up, creaking the long perspective of the grand 'oad-way, an extremely elegant one throws »ut its waters to a considerable height in the orm of a bouquet, and forms the centre of an >pen spot called the Rond Point. On either ide are Cafds and Restaurants, and other (laces of public divertisement, which, from he tasty manner in which they are con¬ tracted, add considerably to the beauty of he pictur To the right is the Cirque de Tmperatrice , a fine theatre, where the troop f Franconi go through their manoeuvres to the elight of crowded audiences. Directly pposite, on the south side of the avenue, is new circular building to match. Behind the 'irque, and separated from the public by a mple balustrade, is the Palais of the Elysee , r the Elysee Napoleon , the garden of which is lid out in the English style, with winding leys and velvet grass-plots. The Elysee was uilt in 1718, and became the residence of [adame de Pompadour, and afterwards the 'uchess de Bourbon, who for a while gave her ime to it. Under the Directory it became itional property, and was occupied by officers ‘ state; under the empire, Murat resided there, id Napoleon himself for a time; in 1814 the mperor of Russia, and in 1815 the Duke of Ellington, took up their quarters here. In >48 it was given to the President of the epublic. It is intended for the residence of any ustrious personages who may honour Paris ith their presence, and was occupied by ueen Victoria during her stay in Paris, in 55. It was in the palace and the gardens of e Elysee that the Fete given by the Em- :ror in honour of the visit of the Duke of imbridge and Lord Raglan, on their way the East in April, 1854, was celebrated. Opposite the Elysde Palace is the vast I lais de V Industrie , erected between 1852 ( and 1855, for the French International Ex¬ hibitions of Manufactures, which take place every five years. Annual exhibitions of pic¬ tures and agricultural implements are also held here. From the Rond Point , several avenues branch off—the two on the left are the Avenue d’Antin and the Avenue de Montaigne—here there is the Diorama of M. Langlais, which is well worth seeing, and also the elegant new villa of Prince Napoleon. To the right is the Jar din Mabile where, three or four times a week during the course of the summer, open- air balls are given. Ladies are admitted free,, but the gentlemen have to pay 8 francs. It is open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. On the left of the Avenue D’Antin, is the Concert Musard. Admittance 1 franc. Good music from 8 till 11 p.m. A little further up the Champs Elysdes, on the left, is the splendid mansion occupied by the Mother of the Empress of the French, and still further on, the Jardin d’Hiver, or Winter Garden, opened in 1845. It is simply a vast green-house, within which are collected a great quantity of rare flowers and evergreens. Concerts, in which the first artists of the day assist, and balls for charitable purposes are often held here. The ordinary price of admission to see the gardens is one franc, but on special occasions, when a ball or a concert is given, the price is increased accordingly. A little further up the Avenue, still on the left, is the Chateau des Fleurs, another garden where dancing takes place, and no less elegantly planned than the Jardin Mabile. Amongst the shrubs and flowers, innumerable jets of light of different colours sparkle, and every where are distributed soft alcoves and quiet nooks; Chinese lanterns also hang from the boughs of the larger trees, and give a 16 CHATEAU DK3 FLEURS—ARC DE TRIOMPH. picturesque and Oriental appearance to the place. When the lilacs are in full blossom the gardens are very enchanting. A Kiosk in the centre of the grounds contains the orchestra. Fireworks are frequently added to the attractions of this Chateau. A Cafe and R estaurant supply refreshments. The gardens are open for dancing on Mondays, Wednes¬ days, and Fridays. Admission—for gentlemen, 3 francs; ladies are admitted free. Crowning the hill, and just outside the Barriere, is the Arc-de-Triomphe de PEtcile, a trium¬ phal arch, intended to celebrate the victories which Napoleon had gained over the Austrians and Prussians, and to signalize the entry of Marie Louise, the affianced bride of Napoleon, into Paris. It was commenced in 1806; in 1814 the works had advanced as far as the spring of the arch, when they were arrested until 1823. In that year the government determined to continue them, in honour of the success of the Duke d’Angouleme in Spain; the arch, however, was not completed until 1836. The total height of the structure is 152 feet, its breadth 137 feet, its depth 68 feet; the foundations which support its enormous weight are laid 25 feet under ground; the total cost has been £47,280. Each of the four principal groups which adorn the four fronts of the building is nearly forty feet high, and the figures twenty feet. On the side facing Paris the group on the right represents the Departure for the Defence of One's Countr the left, Napoleon , after a Triumph , receiving a crown from the hands of Victory. On the front, towards Neuilly, the group to the right represents a young man surrounded by his family holding a dead child in his arms, and on the point of rushing out for the defence of his home; that on the left represents Peace. This is one of the monuments of Paris which \ve would advise the visitor to mount; the ascent is comparatively easy, although there- are 280 steps to climb; and the birds’ eye view from the summit well worth the trouble. Looking over Paris, the Champs Elysees, and the Palace and Gardens of the Tuileries, with the Place de la Concorde between them, stand in front; to the left is the Madeleine, the Church of the Assumption, with its fine dome, the Column Yendome,. the Church of St. Eustache, the Tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie and the Hotel de Yille, the arches of St. Denis and St. Martin, the Strasbourg Railway Station, Montmartre and Belleville; on the right is the Seine and the Champs de Mars, beyond which the Ecole Militaire, the Hotel des Invalides, the Observatory, Yal de Grace, the Pantheon, St. Sulpice, Notre Dame, the towers of the Palais de Justice, and the Conciergerie, stand out high above a vast mass of buildings; whilst beyond the Church of St. Gervais, the Ecole de Charlemagne, the Column of July, on the Place de la Bastille, the two Columns at the Barriere du Trone, and the Chateau de Yincennes may easily be distinguished on a clear day. Turning to the west, a long line of hills surrounds the view, to the left of which may be seen Meudon and Mont Valerien, and beneath the Bois de Boulogne, to the north, the low towers that rise in dim obscurity in the distance belong to the Abbey of St. Denis. Two sous are expected by the porter on descending. A quarter of a mile from the Arc deTriomphe is the Hippodrome , which was opened in 1845 for equestrian evolutions. It is an irregular building, with a circus inside, capable of holding 7,000 or 8,000 spectators; it is a fashionable resort, and attracts great numbers of every class. The theatre is open during fine weather every Tuesday, Thursday, Satur¬ day, and Sunday, from three to half-past five. When the weather is fine the Champs Elysees PONT DES INVALIDES—HOTEL DES INVALIDES, ETC. 17 present a most animated appearance; about two or three o’clock in the afternoon the promenaders begin to appear; and from that hour to six or seven, a continual crowd of persons is thronging the principal pathways and alleys, between the Tuileries and the Barri&re de l’Etoile. In the road a perpetual stream of carriages, freighted with the beauty and the fashion of this metropolis of fashion, rolls on towards the Bois de Boulogne, where outside the fortifications of the city, and in the midst of its leafy enclosure, or on the banks of its artificial and recently-constructed lakes, a most delightful drive may be enjoyed. Every variety is here, and at this time afforded, to give pleasure to the eye; and no one can look upon the splendid equipages, the fine horses, the elegant dresses, and the cheerful faces that pass and repass before him, without being struck by the dazzling effect of such a combination of wealth and taste. In the evening, when the avenues are lighted up, and when the pavilions of the Cafe-chantants, decorated with flowers and various silken festoons, are brilliant with jets of fire—when the voice of music and singing is heard in every direction, and the fair per¬ formers, habited with all taste and elegance, are ranged within the pavilions, the scene becomes still more enchanting and illusory, and can scarcely be realised by one a visitant from the other side of the channel. The pleasure too of sitting out in the open air, breathing a genial atmosphere, drinking coffee at one’s ease, and listening at the same time to a melody of pleasing songs, must not be forgotten amongst the influences that enrich the pleasure of the moment. Returning to the Rond Point, and taking the Allee d’Antin, we shall arrive upon the Pont des Invalides.— This handsome bridge, consisting of four arches, serves as a communication between the Champs Elysees, le Gros-Caillou, and the Invalides. It is 350 feet long, and 24 broad, and admits of carriages as well as foot-passengers. The next bridge on the right, towards Chaillot, is the new and elegant Pont d’Alma, with colossal figures of soldiers between the arches. The next is the Pont (Plena, commenced in 1806, and completed in 1813, after designs by' M. Dillon. It consists of five elliptical arches, is 460 feet, and faces the Champs de Mars. It was named after the celebrated battle gained by Napoleon on the plain near Jena. In 1814, the Prussians, who came with the allied armies to Paris, attempted to destroy the bridge; but Wellington sent a corps and prevented this outrage. It was however called Pont des Invalides until 1830, when it re-assumed its original name, Pont d’lena. Crossing the Pont des Invalides, and proceed¬ ing to the left, we arrive at the Esplanade des In¬ valides, a fine open space, facing the river and the Champs Elysees, and measuring 1440 feet in length. It was formerly planted with very fine trees. At the further end of it, and separated by a deep foss, is the Hotel des Invalides, one of the chief public monuments of Paris. Until the reign of Henry IV. no provision was made for the soldier wounded and maimed in war: this humane monarch, however, instituted an asylum for them, which the numerous and severe wars Louis XIY. waged, soon proved to be too small in its accommodations. This prince accordingly determined to erect a magnificent edifice, which should be worthy of his reign, and those whom he was pleased to call the participators of his glory. The present building was accordingly begun in 1671, after designs by Bruant, and the princi¬ pal part of it finished in 1706: several additions have since been made. At the Revolution of 1793, it was called the Temple IS HOTEL DES INVALIDES. <«/■ Humanity, under Napoleon, the Temple -qf Mars ; at the restoration, however, these Inflated titles were annulled, and the institu¬ tion resumed its original name. The Hotel, is ■entered by a railed court, which precedes a .garden, divided into different alleys leading to dhe different courts. The sides of this court •ere enclosed by little gardens, left to the care •of the invalids, who thus find occupation and amusement in attending to them. In front ‘of the principal entrance, and on each side •of the railing, is a battery of 18 cannons, which is fired on the occasion of any great •event. These cannons are the spoils of victory, and were taken from the Venetians, Dutch, Austrians, Prussians, Russians, and Algerians. The fatjade of the Hotel gives the appearance of great solidity. Several pavilions well proportioned attract the eye. A grand Arch, sustained by columns and pedestals, forms the principal entrance; over this entrance is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV.; statues of Prudence and Justice are placed on the right and left, in bas-relief; whilst two fine figures of Mars and Minerva .grace the sides of the gateway. The length -of the front is 612 feet. There are in the interior, fifteen courts, the principal of which, called the Cour d'Honneur , is 315 feet long bv 192 feet broad. At the bottom of this court is the porch of the church : this porch, which is of the Com¬ posite order, is crowned by a fine statue of the Emperor, executed by M. Scurre. The interior will be seen to consist of two churches, which are now thrown into one; and the high altar, which stands with such fine effect between them, serves for both churches. The first church is adorned with 54 flags, taken from different nations from the time of the Republic down to the present; amongst them the Russian Eagle which waved over the Malakhoff Tower in the Crimea. In the time of Napoleon, 3,000 banners attested | the brilliancy of his successes, but on the eve of the entrance of the allied armies, in 1814, the minister of war ordered them to be burnt, and the sword of Frederic the Great, preserved amongst its curiosities, to be broken. Beneath, in the vaults, repose the remains of several of the most celebrated warriors of France. To obtain a view of the Tomb of Napoleon, it is necessary to go round to the opposite entrance, in the Place Vauban; but, before doing so, it will be worth while to view the interior of the building. In the Library , the objects most interesting are two candlesticks which belonged to Marshall Turenne, and also the cannon ball by which he was killed. In the Salle d'attente and Council Chamber are the portraits of the governors of the Hospital, and also models of the different forts and fortresses of France, such as Cher¬ bourg, Dunkerque, Strasbourg, &c. After this the visitor will be shown the dining¬ rooms, kitchens, and dormitories; a small gratuity is expected by the guide, and by the officer who shews the library. The internal arrangements of this institution are under the direction of a governor, usually a Marshal of France, assisted by a staff. The building is capable of receiving 5,000 persons, and, with its adjoining dependencies, covers sixteen acres of ground; twenty-six sisters of charity and two-hundred-and-sixty servants attend upon the inmates. Having seen these places, pass out by the way you came in, and by taking the turning to the right, on crossing the foss, and going round the building, you will find your¬ self in the Place Vauban, and opposite the principal front of the Tnvalides, the portico of 'which is exceedingly beautiful; it is composed of two rows of columns, one above the other, of the Doric and Ionic order, supporting a delta, above which rises the magnificent dome decorated by forty columns. This dome, with its campanile, is one of the finest chefs d’ceuvres of ECOLE MILITAIRE. 19 Mansard, who took nearly thirty years in con¬ structing it. It is covered with gilded lead richly sculptured, hut the gold has nearly disappeared; It has been proposed to electro¬ plate it; if this should be done the effect will be astonishing. The interior of the dome-church however, with its eight-arched chapels and painted cupola, is most beautiful. On the left hand repose the remains of Napoleon as they were brought from St. Helena, and the tombs of Turenne and Vauban stand opposite to one another. In the centre is the grand Mausoleum of Napoleon, which is intended to receive his remains; it stands immediately under the centre of the dome, where the ground is open, and galleries of white marble encircle the sarcophagus which is of red Finland granite. Over the doorway leading into the crypt is the inscription taken from the will of Napoleon*— Je desire que mes cendres reposent sur les bords de la Seine , an milieu de cepmple Frangais que j'ai tant aime. The altar, which is the work of the late M. Visconti, is surmounted by a canopy support¬ ed by four columns of black marble, consisting each of an entire block, and measuring 22 feet in height. The capitals are gilded, but the light, which is admitted through painted windows, is so arranged as to give them the appearance of being of mother of pearl. A beautiful Christ, in bronze, with gilded cross, adorns the altar. The colours taken from the Austrians at Magenta and Solferino, with many others, are placed in the old chapel adjoining, in which several marshals and governors are buried. Bertrand and Duroc lie near the Emperor. This dome church and the tomb of Napoleon can only be seen on Mondays and Thursdays, from 12 to 3 o’clock. On leaving the Invalides, the visitor should return to the Place Yauban, turn to the right, and pass down by the Avenue de Tournelle, by which he will arrive in a few minutes upon The Champs de Mars , a large open space three- quarters of a mile long, and nearly a quarter of a mile broad. In this arena took place the Fete de la Federation , on the 14th July, 1790, when an altar, called the Autel de la Patrie, was erec¬ ted in the centre, around which thousands of people crowded. Opposite the front of the Ecole Militaire stood a pavilion, richly deco¬ rated, for the King; and here Louis XVI. swore to observe the new constitution. It was here also that Napoleon held his famous Champ de Mai , in 1815, previous to setting out on his fatal campaign in Belgium ; and in the same month, in the year 1852, Louis Napoleon distributed the eagles to the army. On this field all kinds of military exercises take place every day, and horse racing nearly every Sun¬ day in summer. Here was held the grand review in honour of the Duke of Cambridge and Lord Kaglan, during their short stay in Paris, previous to their departure for the east. The building which we observe at the south end is the Ecole Militaire.—It is a plain building, without any architectural pretensions, and was established by Louis XV. for the gratuitous education of five hundred sons of poor noble¬ men, but more especially for the children of those who had perished in battle. The building was commenced in 1752, and completed in 1762. Ten Corinthian columns, which rise the whole height of the edifice, support an attic adorned with bas-reliefs. In 1788 the school was abolished, and the scholars w r ere drafted off into other colleges, or took their commissions at once in the army. In 1789 it was converted into a cavalry barracks,— Napoleon made it his head-quarters for some time;—it is now a barracks for infantry, cavalry, and artillery corps, with the official residence of the General commanding the 20 HOTEL DES AFFAIRES ETRAXGERES, ETC. garrison of Paris. In the dome of the edifice an observatory was erected, which exists still. Strangers are not admitted into the interior. Return-ingin front of the Invalides,the nearest way to which is by the rue Motte Piquet , and retracing our steps to the river, we must turn to the right, and thus continue our route along the Quais. The first object of interest will be the Hotel des Affaires Etrangeres , or the minis¬ try for foreign affairs, which has just been completed at a cost of £200,000. The building consists of a main body, terminated at each extremity by a pavilion, and two wings project on the side facing the rue de Lille, forming a grand court. The lower part is of the Doric, the upper the Ionic order. Marble medallions give a graceful finish to the fine row of windows which range along the highly ornamented front facing the river. Strangers are not admitted into the interior. As we proceed up the quay, we arrive at the Pont de la Concorde , a fine bridge, 470 feet in length and 60 in breadth, consisting of five elliptical stone arches. It was commenced in 1787 and finished in 1790, when it was called the Pont de Louis XVI. In 1792 it was called Pont de la Revolution , and in 1800 the name was again changed to the name it now bears. The materials of which it is built were taken from the debris of the Bastille. Perronet was the architect. A little further on, and opposite the Pont de la Concorde is the Corps Legislatif, or the Palais Bourbon , as it is commonly called. This palace was built by the Duchess Dowager of Bourbon, in 1722. Eight hundred thousand francs were afterwards expended on it by the Prince de Conde, and the works were still in progress when the first revolution broke out. The mansion was then pillaged, and for some years remained unoccupied; but, in 1795, it was chosen as a place of meeting for the council of the Five Hundred. It reverted after the revolution to the Prince de Conde, and that part of it used formerly by the council was retained for the Chamber of Deputies. On the death of the Prince it became the property of the Due d’Aumale, when the private apart¬ ments were rented by the state for the President of the Assembly. The whole of it was shortly afterwards purchased by the nation. The National Assembly sat here during the existence of the republic, and here took place some of the most stormy and uncontrollable debates ever witnessed. It is now occupied by 281 mem¬ bers of the Corps Legislatif. The fine peristyle, consisting of twelve Corinthian columns which decorates the river front, was built in 1804. The base of the delta is 95 feet, and its height, 17 feet. A bas-relief representing France standing on a tribune and holding the constitution in her right hand, is by Carlos. On the side of France are Minerva and Themis, the representatives of Force and Justice; on the left an allegorical group, representing Navigation, the Army, Industry, Peace, and Eloquence; on the right, Commerce, Agriculture, the Arts, and the two rivers, the Seine and the Marne. A broad flight of steps leads up to this noble porch, at the foot of which are statues of Justice and Prudence. Statues of Sully, Colbert, L’Hopital, and D’Aguessau rest upon pillars that strengthen and adorn the iron railing surrounding the building. The principal entrance, however, is from the Rue de l’Universite. The gateway placed in the centre of a Corinthian colonnade, termi¬ nated by two pavilions, has a very fine appear¬ ance. The court, which is of considerable size, and surrounded by a fine line of buildings, is adorned with a portico of fluted columns, which serves as the entrance into the Salle des Seances. This saloon is on a level with the platform of the peristyle, and arranged in the form of an amphitheatre. It is adorned by a colonnade of twenty-four Ionic pillars of white marble, each a single block. A great number of PALAIS DE LEGION d’hONNEUR. 21 historical pictures, by the best masters, decorate its walls. It was in this saloon that the Duchess of Orleans appeared with her two children to engage the Chamber to acknowledge the Count de Paris as long on the abdication of Louis Philippe. In the Salle de la Paix , a Laocoon, a Virginius, a Minerva in bronze, and a ceiling, painted by Horace Vemet, are worthy of notice. In the Salle de Casimir Perier are statues of the Republic, by Barre; of Casimir Perier, by Duret; of Bailley and Mirabeau, by Jaley; and bas-reliefs, by Fri- quette. In the Salle des Conferences , besides some paintings illustrating French History, will be observed figures of Prudence, Justice, Vigilance and Power, as well as medallion portraits of Sully, Montesquieu, Colbert and others. The Library of the Corps Legislatif contains about 50,000 volumes, consisting of a collection of all the laws passed, and proc&s- verbal of the legislative assemblies held here, and also of works relating to diplomatic sub¬ jects. The interior of the Palais may be visited every day by foreigners, on applying to the Concierge; but, to visit the library, it is necessary to write to one of the librarians for permission. Proceeding onward down the Rue de Bour¬ gogne, and taking the first street to the right, the Rue de Lille , the visitor will arrive in front of the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur, built iu 1786, and designed as a residence for the Prince de Salm—Salm, who was guillotined in 1792. This mansion was then put up to a raffle, and fell to the lot of a barber. In 1804, however, Napoleon gave it to the Chancellor of the Legion of Honour, which institution had recently been established. This building is very rich in sculpture and ornament. The gate at the entrance represents a triumphal arch, decorated with Ionic columns, and bas- reliefs and statues. Two galleries of the same order, placed on the right and left, lead to the principal building, the facade of which is adorned with Corinthian columns, and a fine Ionic portico. A flight of steps leads up to this portico, and on the frieze above is the inscription of the Order, “Honneur et Patrie.” The interior is decorated with taste and ele¬ gance. It is open from 2 to 4, and no further application for admission is necessary than a request to that effect to the Concierge. Opposite the Palais de la Legion d’PIonneur is the Palais d? Or say, one of the finest and most imposing edifices of its kind in Paris. It was commenced in the latter days of the empire by Napoleon, and completed under Louis Philippe. It was intended as an Exhi¬ bition of the works of Industry of France, but was under the Republic devoted to the sittings of the Cours des Comptes and the Conseil d’Etat. The building of this splendid palace cost upwards of a half a million sterling. The principal front is towards the Rue de Lille, containing a spacious court, enclosed by an elegant range of buildings; but the fa 9 ade towards the Quay is very fine. The arrange¬ ment of the interior is in keeping with the exterior. On the walls of the staircase are frescoes by M. Chasserian, representing Study, Agriculture, Commerce, War, Peace, &c. In the Salle du Comite de VInterieur are some fine paintings, amongst them Moses and Justinian , by Marigny. The Salle des Seances Adminis- tratives is a very splendid hall, decorated with twenty-four Corinthian columns of white mar¬ ble, with gilt capitals. Portraits of Turgot, Richelieu, Suger, Cambaceres, Colbert, and others, grace its walls. The interior cannot be visited. In front of this Palace is the new Pont de Solferino, an iron bridge, leading over the Seine to the Tuileries Gardens, about 500 feet long. The building next to the Palais is a cavalry barracks, a fine building, formerly the Hotel 22 PONT ROYALE—PLACE VENDOME. des Gardes du Corps of Napoleon. It was built under the empire. By the side of this, with a terrace overlooking the Seine, is the Hotel de Praslin, a fine specimen of one of the mansions of the old nobility, and beyond this the Quai de Voltaire. In the house at the corner of the quay and the Rue de Beaune died this celebrated philosopher. The bridge opposite is the Pont Royale. —It has, however, changed names with the change of times, and has been known as the Pont Nationale, and the Pont Im- periale. It was built in 1684 by Fr&re Romain, a Dominican priest, after designs by Mansard. It is of stone, and consists of five semi-circular arches. Its length is 432 feet, and breadth 52. On one of the buttresses to the west is an index marking the height to which the waters of the Seine have risen during different inundations. The highest rise was in 1740, when they rose twenty-five feet. This bridge leads from the Tuileries to the Quais Voltaire and d’Orsay, and the Rue du Bac. THIRD DAY. PLACE VENDOME—FONTAINE DES CAPUCINS—ST. ROCH—ST. JACQUES DE LA BOUCHERIE— PONT NEUF—PLACE DAUPHINE—PALAIS DE JUSTICE—SA1NTE CIIAPELLE—CONCIERGERIE —LA MORGUE— HOTEL DIEU—NOTRE DAME—PONT DE LA REFORME—HOTEL DE VILLE— CASERNE NAPOLEON — ST. GERVATS — HENRY IV. ASSASSINATED — HALLES CENTRALES — ST. EUSTACIIE — HALLE AUX BLES — BANK OF FRANCE — PLACE DES VICTOIRES. This morning’s visit shall be directed to some of the older parts of Paris, and especially those monuments which illustrate the ancient city. But first it will be as well to visit the Place and Column Vendome. This place or square, which forms an irre¬ gular octagon, was commenced in 1688, after designs by Mansard, on the spot where formerly a monastery stood. It was intended by Louis XIV., who originated the place, to contain the Mint, the Royal Library, and the Hotels of Special Ambassadors. The project was, how¬ ever, abandoned, and the property disposed of, to the corporation of Paris, who agreed to carry out so much of the king’s intention as related to the formation of a place, which was accord¬ ingly done. At this time a colossal equestrian statue of Louis stood in the centre, but this was destroyed in 1792. In 1806, Napoleon ordered the present triumphal column, after the model of Trajan’s triumphal pillar at Rome, to be erected in commemoration of the successes of the French armies. The shaft is formed of 276 plates of metal, derived from 1,200 pieces of cannon taken from the Austrians and Prus¬ sians, and weighing altogether more than 120 tons. The height of the column is about 149 feet, the pedestal is 22 feet high, and 16 feet wide. It was, after its completion, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon as emperor; in 1814 this statue was melted down to aid in forming the equestrian statue of Henrv IV., now on CHURCH OF ST. ROCH. the PontNeuf; but, during the reign of Louis Philippe, the present statue of the emperor was placed there. The plates of which the column is formed, are arranged in a spiral manner, and adorned with bas-reliefs, representing the principal events which signalised the campaign of 1805, up to the battle of Austerlitz. The pedestal is ornamented with casts of helmets, cannons, and military instruments of every kind, in good keeping with the rest of the design. In the interior of the column a staircase has been formed of 176 steps, by which the visitor may reach the gailery over the capital; but the ascent is steep and dark, and we would not advise any of our visitors to mount them, as no other object is gained in doing so than the fact of having been at the top of the column. From the Pantheon, the Arc de l’Etoile, or Notre Dame, a better view may be obtained, with a really agreeable ascent. Descending the Rue Castiglione w r e see at the corner of the Rue St. Honore the Fontaine des Capucins , constructed in 1713. It pos¬ sesses no architectural grace, but over it is a Latin couplet by Santeuil:— Tot loca sacra inter, pura est qnse labitur unda ; Hanc non impuro, quisquis es, ore bibas. There were formerly six convents in this neighbourhood: tot loca sacra inter. Continuing by the Rue St. Honore eastward, we see on the left the Church of St. Roch —One of the wealthi¬ est and most privileged churches of Paris The first stone w r as laid in 1653, by Louis XIV. and his mother, Anne of Austria, but the building was not completed until nearly a century afterwards. The plan was furnished by Jacques Mercier. The external architecture is somewhat plain, but the internal, which is of the Doric order, suggests massiveness and strength. The nave, the roof of which is [ 23 supported by twenty columns, is 160 feet long- Eighteen chapels surround the aisles. At the further end is the Chapelle du Calvaire , a very curious chapel. In a large niche, lighted from an invisible opening above, is represented the- top of Mount Calvary, our Saviour on the cross and the Magdalene at the foot weeping;. To the right of this chapel we see large rocks- and the mouth of a cavern, before w T hieh are groups of figures representing the burial of Jesus. The Chapel of the Virgin behind the- choir is considered a chef-d’oeuvre. It is circular, ornamented with Corinthian pilasters,, and crowned by a cupola painted in fresco. The subject is the Assumption. There are several pictures of value in this church amongst them—the Raising the Daughter of Jairus, by Delorme; the Raising of Lazarus,, by Vien; Jesus Blessing Children, by the- same; Saint Sebastian, by Bellard. The shrine- behind the choir is made of the cedar of' Lebanon. Before the revolution of 1848, Louis Philippe- and his family used to attend mass in this church; here, in 1720, the famous Law r con¬ fessed his conversion to the Roman Catholic- faith to be made controller-general of the finances, when he made a present to the church of 100,000Z. Many illustrious persons lie buried here; amongst others Pierre Corneille- On the steps of this church many popular tumults have taken place. In 1830 a valiant stand was made here by the people against the soldiers of Charles X., and here an eager multitude thronged to witness the unfortunate Louis XVI., and afterwards the beautiful Marie Antoinette, led on to execution. At Easter, and on other great festivals, the finest music may be heard here, as this church has the privilege of making the first selection from the opera companies of Paris on these occasions. Passing dowm this street, crossing the Plaeo du Palais Royal into the Louvre, and hasten- 24 ST. JACQUES DE LA BOUCHER1E—PONT NEUF. ing on beyond the Louvre some little distance, we arrive opposite one of the purest specimens of Gothic architecture in Paris. The tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie. The church to which it was attached, and the date of which is lost in antiquity, was destroyed during the revolution of 1789 ; and the tower, which alone remains to attest its magnificence, sold to a private individual to erect a foundry in. In 1836 it was purchased by the city of Paris, with a view to its pre¬ servation and renewal. The height of it measures 160 feet. It has lately been renewed, and now stands in the centre of a large square planted with shrubs and flowers. In this tower, Pascal made his experiments on the weight of the atmosphere; and the statue of the philosopher is appropriately placed within it. Retracing our steps, and turning down on the left by the Rue de la Monnaie, we shall arrive on the Place du Chateletj and turning a little to the right the Pont Neuf. The Place du Chatelet is so called from a chatelet or fortress which formerly stood there, from the earliest times of the French monarchy to the year 1812, when it was completely pulled down. The fortress contained both a court of justice and a prison. In the centre stood a fountain, lately removed, consisting of a circular basin 21 feet in diameter, and a column 54 feet high. This column, representing a palm-tree, the leaves of which form the capital, was erected in 1807, and was intended to commemorate the vic¬ tories of the republic and Napoleon. A figure of Fame holding a wreath in each hand, stand¬ ing on a globe, and borne up by allegorical figures of the four winds, surmounted the column. Four figures, representing Prudence, Vigilance, Law, and Force, adorned the base. Passing on to the Pont Neuf we have a fine view of the Cite, the quays, the river, and the Pont des Arts. This latter bridge is very light, though constructed of nine iron arches. It is 518 feet long and 31 feet broad, and derives its name from the Palais des Beaux Arts, to which it leads from the Louvre. It was built in 1804, and cost 56,000?. To the right, on the Quai del’Ecole, is the Place de l’Ecole, contain¬ ing a fountain, surrounded by a basin surmount¬ ed by a stone vase and flanked by lions, which cast the water into the cistern. Immediately below the bridge, to the west, are the elegant Baths of the Samaritan, where every kind of warm and shower bath may be had, from early in the morning to 10 or 11 at night. Opposite are the baths of Henry IV., where swimming is taught. In the summer season this establishment, as well as others lower down on the Seine, are crowded by bathers. It may be as well to observe that the Baths of Henry IV., and the Imperial Baths along the Quai de Voltaire, are the best swimming baths; and that the Samaritan, and the baths opposite the Imperial Swimming Baths, are the best warm baths. There are, however, numerous warm baths in every part of Paris, which are very moderate in their charges. The Pont Neuf is perhaps the most frequented of atl the bridges of Paris. Walk on it “ and you are sure to meet a white horse, a soldier, and a priest,” became of old a proverb, to indi¬ cate the crowd of people of every soYt and every condition which crossed it. This bridge connects the two banks of the Seine with the island of the city, and opens up a communica¬ tion between the most populous and busy quarters of Paris. It was commenced in 1578, but, owing to the civil troubles that afflicted France at this period, it was not completed till 1604. Henry IV. was so anxious for its construction that he defraved the expenses out of his private purse. The entire length of the bridge is 1,008 feet, and its breadth 86 feet. Formerly shops were established along the sides of the parapets; but during the recent improve- PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 25 ments, these houses have been taken down. The ground on which the centre of the bridge rests was formerly a separate island, called Vile aux Vaches. Here, in 1304, Jacques Molay, grand master of the Templars, was publicly burnt to death. The statue of Henry IV. , which fills the open space between the two bridges, was placed there in 1818, and replaces the one erected there by his widow, Marie de Medicis, but which was destroyed in 1793. Opposite the statue is the entrance into the Place Dauphine , which was planned by Henry IY. in 1608, and so called in com¬ memoration of the birth of the Dauphin Louis XIII., son of that monarch. Proceeding straight through the Place, we shall arrive by a flight of steps in the passage and courts of the Palais de Justice, the front of which, however, is on the opposite side, and faces the Place of the same name. This edifice, by the antiquity of parts of it, by its associations, and by the peculiar manner of the people of the law who frequent the quarter, is one of the most curious monuments of the capital. It was here that from the time of Hugh Capet or his son Robert, who is said by some to have built it in 1000, down to the reign of Charles V. , who left it in 1354, that all the French kings dwelt. The first edifice was small, but it was successively enlarged by St. Louis, Philippe le Bel, Louis XI., Charles VIII., and Louis XIII. The towers with conical roofs, which face the quays, are referred back to the time of Philippe Augustus; and the square tower, known by the name of the Tour de VHorloge, which forms the angle with the quay and the Marche des Fleurs, belongs also to the same early period. This tower contains the famous clock, made in 1370 by a German, and presented to Charles Y. It is the first clock of the kind that the Parisians had seen. In the lantern over this tower formerly hung the Tocsin , or clock alarm-bell, which was rung on the occasion of the death of the king, or the birth of the dauphin. It was this bell too that, on the fatal 24th of August, 1572, re¬ sponded to the death-signal from the bell of St. Germain L’Auxerrois, for the massacre of the Huguenots. It was destroyed, however, in 1789. Before 1618, in the great hall of the palace, the king was accustomed to receive ambassa¬ dors, to give banquets, and celebrate the marriage of the princes or princesses of royal blood. Around it were arranged, in chrono¬ logical order, statues of the Kings of France, from Pharamond down to the last deceased. At one end stood an immense marble table, it is said, of one block, at which kings and persons of the highest degree were privileged to eat. It afterwards became the stage upon which the first theatrical representations, such as the mysteries, took place. The hall, however, was burnt down early in the seventeenth century, and the Salle des Pas Perdus constructed in its place. The entrance into the old building was by no means graceful, but within the last few years great improvements have been made, and the beautiful fa 9 ade that at present exists constructed. The principal front is towards the Rue de la Barillerie. A spacious court, the Cour de Mai , enclosed by a magnificent railing and two side buildings, leads up to the main building. This is again approached by a noble flight of steps, the largest in Paris, and adorned by Ionic columns and allegorical figures, representing Justice, Prudence, and Force. The Salle des Pas Perdus, to which these steps lead, is a fine hall, 230 feet in length and 86 in breadth. It is divided into two naves by a row of columns and arcades which support the vaulted roof and ornamented by a monumental statue of Malesherbes, the advo¬ cate of Louis XVL, and was constructed by M. Desbrosses in the Rennaissant style of ar¬ chitecture. In the old chamber Henry II. of England was received and feted when he came 26 STE. CHAPELLE—CONCIERGERIE. to do homage to the King of France for his Norman possessions. Passages diverging from this grand saloon lead to the different courts of law, and over the entrance of each is inscribed the name of the court. The Court of Cassation is erected on the place of the ancient Salle Saint Louis, which that monarch had repaired and decorated on occasion of his marriage with the Duchess of Suffolk, the beautiful sister of Henry VIII. It is now enriched with bas-reliefs representing Louis XIV. between Justice and Truth. The chambers of the Court of Appeal, as well as those of the Premiere Instance , and simple police are here. To the curious and the antiquarian in taste, a visit to the Depot des Archives Judiciaires will be very interesting. It is situated in three long galleries, immediately above the grand salle and next to the roof, and is ascended by a tortuous and difficult staircase. Amongst its undisturbed treasures may be found the form of proceedings on the trial of Ravaillac, the assassin of Henry IV., and others whose crimes have rendered them notorious. In an old box in the same chambers are contained the clothes which Damien, the regicide, wore when led to punishment, and the rope-ladder so ingeniously made by Latude, when he attempted to escape from the Bastille. On leaving these interesting antiquities and descending into the Cour de Mai, the visitor must next seek out the Sainte Chapelle , which is on the south side of the Palais. This is one of the most curious monuments of the thirteen th century, and interesting, not only from its historical associations, but as being one of the most beautiful and pure specimens of Gothic architecture which exists. It was built in 1242 by Saint Louis, as a depository for the crown of thorns worn by our Saviour during the crucifixion , a piece of the true cross, the spear head which 'pierced our Saviour's side, and other such relics, which, this superstitious monarch had purchased from the emperor Baldwin for two millions of francs. What is principally admired in this building is the very lightness of its construction, the magnificence of its stained glass windows, and the elegance of the groups of columns which spring up to support the vault and form the mouldings. The chapel was surmounted by a spire,, elegant as the rest of the building, but which was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1620. The architects which Louis XIV. had around him attempted to restore it, but their genius and skill failed to replace it; it has,, however,, just been replaced by one in beautiful harmony with the edifice, and light and airy as can well be imagined. The height of the present ono is 70 feet above the roof. It is superbly gilt. The height of the building from the ground is 110 feet. The interior consists of a single nave and choir. Four beautifully designed windows, illustrating the principal events in the life of St. Louis and his two crusades,, adorn each side, while seven narrow pointed ones surround the choir. The whole is gor¬ geously decorated. At the extremity of the- choir is alow chapel, remarkable for its beauty. The roof is supported by seven arches, resting: on a cluster of seven small columns. Every part, external and internal, of this chapel, ought to be examined for the delicacy, as well as splendour, of the details of its architecture. A stone marks still the spot of the famous reading desk, which was the subject of the best poem of Boileau, the satirical poet, who was buried here in 1711. The reading desk has been removed to the Abbey of St. Denis, and the organ to the church of St. Germains 1’Auxerrois. The floor is paved in Mosaic. Forming a part of the Palais de Justice, but at the back of it, is the Conciergerie, a prison, some of whose cells and dungeons descend many feet below the level of the Seine. It is approached by one of the streets leading out of the Quai des LA MORGUE—HOTEL Orfkvres. It was formerly the prison of the Parliament, and at a later period replaced that of the Chatelet. The cell in which Marie Antoinette was confined has been converted into a chapel, and several pictures hang around it to illustrate the history of her misfortunes. It was in the same chamber, too, that the Girondists held their last banquet before being led out to execution. In the dungeons of this gloomy edifice, Madame Elizabeth and the terrible Robespierre were also confined; and here several republicans, in the year 1848, con¬ demned for their ultra and dangerous opinions, underwent the execution of their sentence. The entrance facing the quay is flanked, as we have mentioned already, by two round towers with conical roofs. The one to the west is called the Tour de Cesar , that to the east the Tour Bonbec. The whole of this fa 9 ade is in keeping with its character, and the eye has only to rest upon it for a moment, for the heart to be penetrated by a gloomy and ominous feeling. Returning to the Quai des Orfevres , and proceeding towards Notre Dame, we pass by a small low building on the right, just beyond the Pont St. Michel. This building is the Mon'gue , or Dead-house of Paris. On platforms of stone in the interior are laid the bodies of those who have died by accident or any violent death. They are kept there until claimed by friends or persons connected with the deceased. The number of suicides and deaths by violent means is very great, and sometimes so many as three or four bodies may be seen lying at one time on the platform. It is only a morbid feeling which can induce the great crowds that visit it to enter. Passing on from this and entering the open space, the Place du Parvis de Notre Dame , we have before us that ancient cathedral and on our right, The Hotel Dieu. —This splendid hospital is divided into two by the river, and a large number of wards exist on the left bank of the DTEU—NOTRE DAME. 27 Seine. So long back as the seventh century, a similar institution was said to have been established on the spot. Philip Augustus was the first king whose generosity prompted him to endow this hospital. Saint Louis after him granted to the institution the tax upon pro¬ visions brought to the markets, and subse¬ quently various kings, and nobles, and wealthy men, have enriched it by gifts and lega¬ cies, until it has become the richest hospital in Paris. Under the first republic it received the fantastic name of Hospice (THumanite. The building, with the exception of its size, and its object, is unimposing. The entrance is adorned by a portico supported by Doric columns, very simple and neat. Busts and portraits of the most celebrated physicians who have been connected with the institution adorn the vestibule. The interior is divided into twenty-six large and airy chambers, containing upwards of 1,260 beds. The regu¬ lations of this establishment are upon the most liberal scale. The hospital may be visited by applying with a passport, or stamped card, to the Bureau Central d’Admission dans les Hospi- taux, No. 2, Place du Parvis de Notre Dame, opposite the Hotel Dieu. The total number of beds in all the Paris hospitals is now 17,470 ; a great increase since 1851, when it was less than half the number. NOTRE DAME. A temple dedicated to Jupiter, is said to have occupied the spot on which this celebrated metropolitan church is built. When this temple ceased to exist is not known, but, in 522, Childebert, son of Clovis, raised a Christian house of worship here. All but the founda¬ tions of this structure was destroyed by the Normans, who invaded France, and took Paris in the ninth century. This building remained in a state of ruin till 1160, when Maurice de Saliac, who had risen from a very obscure origin to be Archbishop of Paris. NOTRE DA3IE. 28 •signalised his accession to the archiepiscopal -chair by undertaking the reconstruction of the church. The first stone was laid by Pope Alexander the Third, who had taken refuge at the court of Louis le Jeune. Although that part containing the high altar was consecrated twenty-two years after—in 1182—the works went on very slowly, and it was not until 1223, in the reign of Philip Augustus, that the western facade was completed. Even yet it was but partially completed, for the north transept was not built until the year 1312, when Philippe le Bel bestowed a portion of the confiscated property of the Templars upon it, to sanctify his unjust method of suppressing the order; and the Porte Rouge , which was so called because it was erected by the Duke of Burgundy in expiation of his crime, the assasination of the Duke of Orleans, was not finished until 1420, so that this mag¬ nificent monument of those times took nearly three hundred years in building. The church is built in the form of a Latin cross. Within, it is divided by two rows of ipillasrs and pointed arches, 120 in number, surmounted by galleries decorated by light «s®iumns into three naves. The vaulting of the roof, which has nothing particular about jt, except its mposing height, rises 102 feet -from the pavement. The doors at the side are highly ornamented with scrolls of iron-work, of great elegance. The iron-railing that separates the choir from the nave i3 also a chef-d’oeuvre of its kind. The choir, which is paved with marble, is surrounded by a mag¬ nificent wainscoating, containing the twenty- rsix stdlk of the ecclesiastical dignitaries be- iioiigmg to the church, upon which are engraved "scenes in the lives of our Saviour and the Tirgin. The high altar, approached by steps of Languedoc marble, with its rich canopy .and fine bas-relief, is particularly worthy of tremark. Behind is a fine group of sculpture cross. Around the choir are also arranged some good paintings by Philippe de Cham¬ pagne, Vanloo, Antoine Coypel, Jouvenet, &c. Pour magnificent rose-windows, 36 feet in diameter, highly sculptured, and filled with beautifully stained glass, illustrating Scripture history, decorate the windows at the north and south transepts, and east and west ends. The church is surrounded by twenty-four chapels, one of which is dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury. Amongst the curiosities to he seen in the church are the splendid vestments which priests wear on ceremonial occasions. The new Sacristy, and its contents, are well worth examination. It was reopened in 1855. The exterior of the church of Notre Dame is more striking than the interior. The western fa 9 ade is pierced by three doorways, composed of retiring pointed arches, sumptuously sculp¬ tured. The resurrection, and bas-reliefs illus¬ trating the seven cardinal virtues and their opposite vices, decorate the principal porch. The porch to the right is ornamented with a statue of St. Marcel, treading a dragon under his feet, and other subjects, taken from the life of our Saviour and St. Joseph; the porch to the left, by the death and coronation as queen of heaven, of the Virgin Mary. Above the arches runs a gallery extending the whole length of the fa 9 ade, and called formerly the Gallerie des Rois , because it contained statues of the kings of Judah. These were destroyed during the revolution of 1793, hut are now being restored. This front is terminated by two largesquare towers, 280 feet high, mounted by a staircase of 380 steps placed in the north tower. In the south tower is the famous Bourdon , a great hell, weighing 32,000 lbs., which is only rung on great occasions. It was founded in 1G85, and baptised with great ceremony, having Louis XIY. and his wife for sponsors, hence fjyCouston, representing the descent from the I its other name, Emmanuel Louise Therese. I»ONT DE LA REFORME—HOTEL DE VILLE. The clapper weighs nearly a thousand pounds. | The portal of the south transept of the church is adorned with sculptures illustrating the life j of St. Stephen, and that of the north transept | by sculptures illustrating the story of the j Nativity, and the expulsion of evil spirits from I those possessed of them. Passing to the east of Notre Dame, we arrive at the Pont de la Reforme , or the Pont Louis Philippe , which stretches from the He de la : Cite to the lie St. Louis; and again from this island to the Quai de la Greve. This bridge consists of two suspensions, supported by cables ) formed of 250 threads of iron wire. The span of each bridge is 250 feet. It was called the Pont de Louis Philippe, because it was opened in 1834 under the auspices of that monarch, and Pont de la Reforme after the revolution of 1848. It is opposite to this bridge that formerly stood the house in which the unfortunate Abelard and Heloise resided. From the centre a fine view of the river and of the Hotel de Ville may be had. Crossing this double bridge we arrive upon the Quai de la Gr&ve, and a little further on at the Hotel de Ville —A house called the Maison de Greve, which had been the residence of Charles V. whilst he was dauphin, was pur¬ chased by the corporation of Paris in 1357, for 2,880£, for the purpose of holding their muni¬ cipal meetings. In 1533,this mansion, with some others that environed it, were pulled down, and a more spacious one commenced. After a long interruption it was continued from designs by Dominic Certone, and finished in 1605, during the reign of Henry IY. During the revolution of 1793, it suffered greatly from the furious conduct of the populace, but, in 1801, it was rescued from neglect, and made by Napoleon the residence of the Prefect of the Seine. Since that time, however, the whole edifice has been entirely remodelled, and enlarged to nearly four times its original extent. | 29 Here Queen Victoria and the King of Sar¬ dinia were entertained by the municipal authorities, at their respective visits, in 1855, on which occasion the beautiful double stair¬ case was first exhibited. The principal facade, which is towards the west, is very fine. Over the principal doorway is an equestrian statue of Henry IV., over which again is an illuminated clock. Besides the two pavilions at the extremities, there are two smaller ones, over each entrance, and in the centre a lofty turret, from which a gilded vane springs. The facade fronting the Seine is adorned with twelve allegorical figures representing Com¬ merce, Justice, &c. The -whole of the building is in the rennaissant style of architecture. The apartments of the Prefect of the Seine occupy the ground floor of the right wing; above these are the reception rooms, ornamented! with great taste and splendour, and over these again are the archives of the prefecture. In the left wing is the magnificent room known by the name of the Salle de St. Jecm , where the public festivals of the city take place, besides other fine chambers, in which the sittings of the council general, as well as the meetings of learned and scientific societies, are held. The other rooms of the palace are devoted to offices and residences for the sub¬ ordinate members of the administration. The staircase leading up to the principal rooms is of great beauty; the sculptures are the work of the celebrated Jean Goujon. In the Sails du Trone is a small equestrian statue of Henry IV., of exquisite workmanship, and in the court, which is also decorated with the pro¬ ductions of Jean Goujon, is a statue of Louis XIV. The fine open space which the Hotel de Ville enjoys, as well as the elegance of the houses which are being thrown up around it, enables the visitor to see it to great advan¬ tage. It is hardly to he expected that a place of such municipal importance as the Hotel 30 ST. GERVAIS—FONTAINE DES INNOCENTS—ST. EUSTACHE. Ville should be wanting in historical associa¬ tions. And in this we are not deceived. The various tumults, civil and religious, that have taken place on the troubled soil of France, have all had Some connection with this build¬ ing. It was here that, in 1358, the bloody insurrection of the Maillotins, so dreadfully suppressed b} r Charles VI., broke out; it was here that societies of the Fronde met; it was here that Robespierre held his blood thirsty council, that Louis XVI. appeared wearing the bonnet rouge to gratify the people; it was here that Louis Philippe was presented to the French nation by Lafayette in 1830; and here it was that, in 1848, M. Lamartine nobly exposed his safety, and declared to the excited people that, as long as he lived, the red flag should never be the flag of France. In front of the Hotel de Ville is the Avenue Victoria, leading to the Place du Chatelet, on one side of which, fronting the Seine, stands the new Chamber of Notaries, where landed property is sold. To the right of the large Caserne Napoleon, is the Church of St, Gervais _This church was founded in the sixth century, but rebuilt in 1240, and restored and enlarged in 1581. The structure unites three orders of Grecian architecture—the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, all in excellent harmony the one with the other; and the approach of the western entrance has long been admired by connoisseurs. In the interior the style is Gothic, and remarkable for the height of its vaulted roof. The stained glass of the choir, and several of the chapels, are very beautiful. The Chapel of the Virgin in the interior is considered a chef-d’oeuvre, and contains a fine statue of Christ, by Cortot. In the Chapel of the Holy Ghost, in the south transept, is a good painting of the Tongues of Fire, and St. Amboise refusing entrance to Theodosius the Great. In another chapel is an Ecce Homo, by Rouget. There are also other fine paintings in the style of the Italian masters, much admired. A monument to Chancellor Letellier has been erected in this church. At the extremity, figures of Religion and Fortitude, life-size, support the dying minister. A plaster Descent from the Cross here is also worth noticing. The street behind this church is the Rue St. Antoine, and leads to the Bastille. It is in this quarter that, during revolutions and popular fcmeutes, the principal fighting goes on. It is now necessary that we should retrace our steps. Returning therefore to the Rue de Rivoli, at the north of the Hotel de Ville, we must take the Rue du Temple on the right, and pursue it until we arrive at the Rue Ferronibre, a street to the left. Continuing this street we enter the eastern end of the Rue St. Honore, at No. 3 of which street stood Ravaillac, when he stabbed Henry IV. A bust of the king is placed in a niche between the third and fourth stories, with a Latin inscription upon it. The street opposite leads into the Halles Centrales of Paris, where the general marketing for the city takes place. A series of fine buildings have been erected here, which form one of the finest markets in Europe. At an 'early hour of the morning, carts, conveying provisions of all kinds, come in from all parts, and when the wholesale business of buying is over, about 10 or 11, the retail dealers take their places to carry on their business. On the right, on entering, will be seen a very fine fountain. On the opposite side of the market is the Church of St. Eustache, one of the finest and loftiest in Paris. It was begun in 1532 and consecrated in 1637. In 1804 it was visited by Pius VII., when the ceremony of a second consecration was gone through. The interior has recently been cleaned and orna¬ mented. It consists of a nave, two aisles, and shallow transept. It is remarkable for the height of its roof, the delicacy of its pillars, and the beautiful effect of its tout ensemble. The BANQUE DE FRANCE—PLACE DES VICTOIRES. 31 length of time which it took in building is no doubt the cause of the defect which exists in its architectural harmony, for we see the Grecian orders blended together with the Gothic and the Rennaissance style. The roof is supported by ten parallel pillars, which rise a hundred feet from the ground, and which again support half-way up a gallery, running entirely round the church. Above the gallery are twelve windows, ornamented with stained glass, very valuable both as to design and colour. The interior of the choir is also much admired for the beauty of its decorations. The high altar is of pure Parian marble, exquisitely sculp¬ tured, and cost upwards of 3,000?. The read¬ ing-desk is the same which formerly stood in Notre Dame, but which was displaced during the revolution of 1793. The church is surrounded by chapels, highly ornamented. In that dedicated to the Virgin is a marble statue of the Virgin, executed by Pigal; the sides of the chapel are adorned by some good bas-reliefs. In the same chapel is the tomb of Colbert, by Coysevox. The organ over the doorway has recently been built, and is considered one of the finest in Paris. Either of the streets leading out from the west of the market will lead us to the Halle aux Bles and Fontaine Medicis. The Halle aux Bles, or com market, is a large circular building, 126 feet in diameter, and vaulted by a vast dome. It is built on the spot where anciently stood the Hotel de Soissons, a palace of Catherine de Medicis. This immense structure, which is divided into a gallery of 28 arches, is capable of holding 30,000 sacks of corn. From the gallery, run¬ ning round the building above the arches, a curious echo may be heard. The only relic, of the residence of Catherine de Medicis now existing is a Doric pillar, 95 feet high, situated on the south side of the hall. It was erected in 1572 as an observatory for that princess. Two-thirds of the height there is an ingenious sun-dial, constructed by a canon of the Church of St. Genevieve. This dial may be reached by a staircase in the inside. At the base of the column is a fountain. The building is open to the public. Passing down by the Rue Coquilliere, and turning to the right on entering the Rue Croix des Petits Champs, we shall have opposite to us the Banque de France —This building was formerly the Hotel of the Courts of Toulouse. In 1720, it was rebuilt, after designs by Man¬ sard, for the Duke of Vrilliere, who gave his name to an adjoining street. It was, however, given in 1811, to the administration of the Bank of France, which had been founded in 1803, by Napoleon. The hotel has, however, recently undergone considerable alterations. Passing down the street, fronting the principal entrance, we arrive on the Place des Victoires _The houses sur¬ rounding this square, are from the designs of Mansard, and have their fronts regularly adorned by Ionic pilasters. In the centre, stood formerly, a statue of Louis XIV., crowned by Victory, surrounded by allegorical figures, in bronze. This monument was destroyed in 1792, and replaced by a pyramid, on which was inscribed the recent achieve¬ ments of the French arms. In 1806, a colossal bronze statue of General Desaix, was erected in its place, but this was melted down on the Restoration, to form, with the statue of Na¬ poleon, which surmounted the Column Ven- dome, the statue of Henry IV. on the Pont Neuf. The present equestrian statue of the Grand Monarch, habited as a Roman emperor, was erected in 1822, by Bosio. A little behind the Place des Victoires, is the church of Notre Dame des Victoires, or des Petits Peres. This church was built by Louis XIII., in 1629, to express his gratitude to Providence for the series of victories he had 82 THE BOULEVARDS. gained, and which terminated in the taking of Rochelle. It is built in the form of a Roman cross. In the interior, which is very fine, are some admired pictures by Yanloo, embracing the history of St. Augustine. In 1789, this church was converted into the Exchange. The street to the west, the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs , will lead the visitor on to the Rue de la Paix , or the Boulevard de Madeleine , when he will arrive at the locality he tarted from in the morning. The Boulevards. — Paris is perhaps unique in the plan of its construction. Most cities have their gardens, their parks, their public walks, their parades, their piazzas, or their arcades, in common with the metropolis of France; but those magnificent thorough¬ fares, lined with a verdant fringe of trees, which stretch for miles within the busiest quarters of the city, and constitute the resort of nearly every class of citizen, are altogether peculiar to Paris. It is to these thoroughfares, the Boulevards, that we must go if we would study one of the most prominent phases of French society, and acquire a knowledge of the open air habits of the Parisian. He who has made any stay within this city, and neg¬ lected to explore this fine avenue of palatial buildings, from the Place de la Madeleine to the Place de la Bastille, will have lost a splendid opportunity of viewing the French in their real element. The Boulevards are divided into the internal and external boulevards. The external are those which run round Paris on the outside of the barrier-wall; the internal those that form a magnificent thoroughfare within, though not close to the barriers. They are eighteen in number, of which twelve lie on the north and six on the south side of the Seine. The : principal, or those which are most frequented, » numbering eleven, lead from the Madeleine to i the Bastille, and are the Boulevards de la ; Madeleine, des Capucines, des Italiens, de ! ’ Montmartre, Poissoni&re, Bonne Nouvelle, St. Denis, St. Martin, du Temple, des Filles du Calvaire, Beaumarchais. The best time for seeing them is in the evening of a fine day, when the wealthy bourgeois and pleasure¬ seeking commis having finished their dinner retire thither to lounge about on its broad pavement, to gaze at its brilliant shops, or to sip their coffee at one of the numerous cafes which abound along the whole extent of these urban promenades. A quiet drive through them on such an occasion is well repaid. The picture of life and animation, of ease and plea¬ sure, of insouciance and gaiety here pre¬ sented to the visitor is truly striking, and scarcely to be met with in any other quarter of the globe. Other objects of attraction than the people, meet him everywhere. Noble residences, such as the Maison Dor he on the Boulevard des Italiens, remarkable for its beautiful architec¬ ture, and richly ornamented with gold; or the Portes St. Denis and St. Martin , erected to com¬ memorate the victories of Louis le Grand; or the Chateau d' Eau, with its open space covered with trees, and adorned with a fine fountain ; these present themselves to vary and enrich the route through which he passes. Along these boulevards, too, lie the principal theatres of Paris. The Opera Comique in the Boulevard des Italiens, and the Opera Francais on the opposite side in the Rue Lepelletier. Here the attempt on the life of the Emperor and Empress was made on the 14th January, 1858, by Orsini and his gang of conspirators, by means of explosive shells, which killed 8 persons, and wounded 140 others. Orphee, one of the Emperor’s carriage horses, received 14 wounds, which he has survived. In the neighbourhood are the Theatre des Varietes on the Boulevard Montmartre, de St. Martin and de VAmbigu on the Boulevard St. Martin, as well as the cluster of theatres on the Boulevard de Temple, such as the Gytnnase 9 VERSAILLES. 3 a de la Gaite , Cirque Imperial , des Folies Dra- matiques , des Delassemens Comiques } des Funambules, and lastly, the theatre du Boule¬ vard Beaumarchais. In Rue Cadet, No. 16, not far from the Opera Fran^ais, is the Grand Orient , or head lodge of the Freemasons, of which Prince Napoleon is president. It is the only secret society in France permitted by the law. FOURTH DAY. VERSAILLES. j Having led the visitor to examine and admire many of the finest and most ancient monu¬ ments of Paris, it is intended that he should [| have the opportunity to-day, of inhaling a (! little of the pure air of the country, and re- fresh his fatigued sight by a view of the works of art, and the scenery in the neighbourhood of this metropolis. We therefore propose that this day should be devoted to the Chateau and Park of Versailles. It depends upon the visitor, as to how much j time he would like to give to this magnificent place ; but the earlier he can arrange his de- parture the better, as a good day’s work is I before him. He may leave for Versailles j either by the railway, in the Place du Havre■ called the Chemin-de-fer de hive Droite, or by the railway on the Boulevard Montparnasse^ called the Chemin-de-fer Ue Rive Gauche , or by the Chemin-de-fer An\ericain , a tram road by the river side, on which monster omnibusses are drawn by horses. Office—South side of the Place de la Concorde. Fare, 1 franc. But if he have taken up his abode in the quarter we have recommended, he will find it most con¬ venient to take the former, as the station is within five minutes’ walk of the Madeleine. The trains leave every half-hour from 7 80 a.m., to 8 30 p.m., The prices are as follows r 1st class, If. 50c.; 2nd class, If. 25c. Independently of the purpose which tlie- visitor has in view in making this little excur¬ sion, he must be reminded that the trip is one of no ordinary pleasure, and that, were there, no Versailles at the end of it, the scenery, and. the little pictures of half-urban, half-rural beaut}*, presented to him as he passes onward,, would well repay a visit. The circuit which the railway makes enables him to have a fine distant view of the city; the windings of tha Seine, and the aspect of the country in tha immediate neighbourhood of Paris. As he will frequently find himself on a level high above the river, he will have a panorama stretched before him, full of points of beauty and objects of interest. To enable him, there¬ fore, to understand this panorama better, we will mark out a few of the spots that stand in most prominent relief on its surface. On leaving the station, the train passes •34 VERSAILLES. through a short tunnel, and then a longer one, bored under a hill, forming a continuation of the rising ground, which, as with a natural harrier, encircles Paris, and of which Montmartre and Belleville are abrupt eminences. On emerging, he will see the BocJcs Napoleon on the right. These docks are in course of construction, and are intended to form a grand central depot, whither all the exciseable merchandise of Paris may be collected previous to its general distribution. A little further on, a line branches off to the west, to Passy and Auteuil, for the Bois de Boulogne. After this, the train passes the fortifications, and is fairly out of town. At first, the view is low, flat, and uninteresting, a large plain, extending on -every side, which stretches away to the foot of a long line of hills towards the north. In this direction lies the town and abbey of St. Denis. Long strips of imperfectly cultivated land, producing every variety of vegetable and herb that the climate will admit of, gives a good idea to the foreigner, of the general style of husbandry throughout Prance. To the left, are the western banlieues of Paris, with the Arc de l’Etoile for their •crowning point. Small villas, exhibiting the cockney-rustic taste of the citizens, line the sides of the railway. We now cross the Seine, and stop at Asnieres. This station is prettily situated near one of the most charm¬ ing spots in the outskirts of the city. Its proximity to the placid, lake-like river, on which pleasure boats, on a fine day, are always moving; the clusters of trees that embosom delightful residences, and extend down to the water’s edge; the smiling flower-gardens, that peep out from the shade; the verdancy of the country about, all contribute to give this little paradise a title to the affections of the fete- loving Parisians. As the train continues rolling on, the scenery changes insensibly. The hills to the north-west begin to assume greater shape and boldness. Villages may be discerned dotting their sides; amongst them, Eaubonne, Ermont, and Montmorency: to the left, the dimensions of Paris gradually enlarge themselves. The Arc de l’Etoile, which presents its side to us on leaving the station, now fronts us, and seems to have been acting as the centre to the circumference we have been describing. Mont¬ martre, with its picturesque windmills and conspicuous houses, stands out in bold relief, as well as the minor eminences on which the city is built. An infinite mass of buildings, from which edifice after edifice rises up with majes¬ tic proportions, belt the eastern horizon. The Bois de Boulogne, lies at our feet, and becomes a spacious and beautiful foreground; whilst on the right, the villages of Boulogne and St. Cloud, lining each bank of the river, seem to blend together into one large town, shaded by the wooded heights of Bellevue and Meudon beyond. Above us rises the high hill on which Fort Valerien is constructed, whose bristling batteries seem to look down on us in defiance, so far are they above our heads. Passing beyond the station of St. Cloud, a still more lovely picture discloses itself. We there come upon the quiet village of Ville d’Avray, delightfully situated in the bosom of valleys. On every side the slopes are covered with vegetation. Where there are not vine¬ yards there are woods, lawns, and flower- gardens ; and the very look of the villas, all snugly enclosed in some pretty bosquet, can¬ not fail to inspire the feeling of repose and peace in the heart of one who has forsaken the crowded streets of the city, to visit nature and breathe the balmy atmosphere of the country. With little change in the scenery after this, we enter the terminus at Versailles. The first object that will strike the visitor on proceeding through the town up to the station will most probably be the regularity of the streets, and the uniform grandeur of the houses. Eighty years ago, Versailles was the second PALACE OF VERSAILLES. 35 place of importance in France. A hundred thousand inhabitants, all in one way or another connected with the most sumptuous court in Europe, contributed to its splendour and its luxury. Dukes, marquises, counts, foreigners as well as natives; all that was considered noble, whether from abroad or at home, was gathered within her walls, and this astonishing elevation was the work of scarcely a century. A small village, surrounded by woods and marshes, existed formerly where Versailles stands. The monarchs of France came here for the diversion of hunting, and left it as soon as the day’s sport was finished. Louis XIII., however, fixed his affections a little more strongly upon it, and erected a hunting-box here, whither he might some¬ times retire. This hunting-box was the germ of the present magnificent chateau. In 1660, Louis XIV., tired of the incom¬ modious palace of St. Germain, conceived, in one of his capricious moods, the project of converting this wild district into a beautiful park; and this pretty hunting-box, into a splendid palace, which should contain himself and his numerous court. No expense was spared to carry into effect the king’s design; Lenotre laid out the park and the gardens; Mansard furnished the plans for the palace. Upwards of 30,000 soldiers were diverted from their martial occupations, and ordered to assist the workmen in making vast excava¬ tions, and raising the immense terraces; and it is estimated that not less than forty millions sterling were exhausted upon the laying out of these vast domains, and the erection of this superb chateau; and such was the extraordi¬ nary vigour with which the works were pushed on, that in 1685, hardly twenty-five years after its commencement, the whole was in readiness to receive their royal master. Here the royal family and the court resided until the revolution of 1789. Every part of the in¬ terior, as well as the exterior, was ornamented with the works of the most eminent masters of the time; but, during the turbulent period that followed the downfall of monarchy in France, the whole was ransacked, and but few of its beautiful treasures preserved. It was even proposed to turn the chateau into a kind of hospital. This, however, was overruled, and the place saved. But the enormous ex¬ pense necessaiy for its reparation, has deterred subsequent kings from making it a place of permanent residence; and how long it might have remained in its deserted state, it is im¬ possible to conjecture, had not Louis Philippe conceived the design of converting it into a vast museum, where might be collected whatever il¬ lustrated the greatness and splendour of France. On passing up from the station to the palace, the visitor will not fail to observe the statue of General Hoche. Though not a native of the town, General Hoche was educated in it from earliest childhood, and here first dis¬ played those talents that bespoke his future greatness. Turning to the right, we come in front of the palace. The railing which encir¬ cles the great court, is a very fine specimen of the kind. On either side of the court are statues of eminent statesmen and warriors of France. To the left, on entering, are: Du- guesclin, Sully, Suger, Lannes, Mortier, Suf- fren, Duquesne, Conde ; on the right, Bayard, Colbert, Richelieu, Jourdan, Massena, Tour- ville, Duguay-Trouin, Turenne; whilst in the middle is placed a fine bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV. The front of brick, which terminates the court, is the ancient hunting-seat erected by Louis XIII., and which the respect of his son left untouched. The palace is composed of three great divisions— the main or central body; the south wing; and the north wing. On the eastern front of the left wing may be read the inscription: 11 A toutes les gloires del a France ,” which indicates the present object to which the chateau has been applied. 36 PALACE OF VERSAILLES. The central part contains, on the ground floor, a hall adorned with busts or statues, four suites of apartments, once royal residences, and several vestibules. On the first floor are the salons, seven in number, that adjoin the entrance to the chapel. They were formerly the grand apartments of Louis XIV. The south wing consists, on the ground floor, of twelve rooms, adorned with paintings, illustrating the political and military career of Napoleon, from 1796 to 1810, and contain¬ ing busts of the emperor and his family; and another, the Hall of Marengo, illustrating Trench history from 1789 to 1814. The busts of generals killed in battle occupy places in the windows. There is also a gallery of sepul¬ chral monuments. On the first floor is the hall containing pictures of battles gained by the French, from that of Tolbiac, in the reign of Clovis, down to the battle of Wagram. There is also a gallery of sculpture commencing with productions of the sixteenth century, and embracing those of the eighteenth. The North wing contains, on the ground- floor, a series of pictures representing the most remarkable events anterior to the reign of Louis XVI., and a gallery of busts, statues, and monuments. The first floor contains a continuation of these paintings, from the time of the first republic, down to the reign of Louis Philippe. The second storey contains portraits of eminent persons. i To obtain admission into the /chateau, it is necessary for the visitor to show his passport to the porter, who occupies a bureau on the right hand side of the court. This being done, he has only to examine particularly the interior of the great chateau, the outlines of which have just been given. On entering, then, he will pass through the suite of rooms containing pictures illustrating the history of France, down to 1789, when he will arrive at the Salle des Croisades , contain¬ ing five rooms, embellished by paintings of different battles, fought by the Crusaders in the Holy Land; or which influenced the- Christian cause in the East. The ceilings are richly decorated with the arms and escutcheons of the principal French chevaliers who went to Palestine. These rooms also contain some beautifully carved doors of cedar wood, be¬ longing formerly to the Knights of Rhodes, and given by the Sultan to Louis Philippe;, in 1836. In the long Sculpture Gallery which follows, the visitor must observe the beautiful statue of Joan of Arc, executed by the talented Princess Marie d’Orleans, and the fine statue of the Duke of Orleans in a sitting posture, by Pradier. Next comes the Gallery of Louis Philippe 7 containing pictures illustrating his career from the time of his presentation to the people in 1830. The historical pictures of the war ini Algiers, by Horace Vernet, are well worth a close inspection. After this, The Chapel , consisting of a nave and aisles. The pavement is of rich marble, divided into compartments, and elaborately wrought in mosaic. The ceiling is eighty-six feet high, and embellished by the pencil of Coypel, Lafosse, and Jouvenet. The high altar is very fine. In the chapel of the virgin, one of the seven which this building contains, Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were married. The Theatre. —During representations the King and his suite occupied seats above the pit; the ambassadors the central compartment of the first tier; and the rest of the guests the different boxes arranged all around. The last representation that took place here was in 1844. <>n the 26th August, 1855, a grand ball was given in this room to Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, &c. Her Majesty occupied the Petites Appartements of Marie Antoinette, during this visit to Versailles. The Grands Apartments , amongst which the visitor will find, PALACE OF VERSAILLES. 37 The Salon d' Reroute, which was formerly used as a chapel. Here Bossuet and Massillon preached to the court. Salon d'Appollon or Throne room where Louis XIV., XV., and XVI. received ambassadors and other great functionaries. The Grande Gallerie de Louis XIV., the most splendid room in the chateau, and which, notwithstanding its immense size, "242 feet long by 35 feet broad, and 43 feet high, was daily crowded with courtiers. The ■Salon du Conseil, or Cabinet du Roi, where are the council table and arm chair of the grand monarch, a curious clock that plays a chime when the hour strikes, and is set in motion 'by a curious machinery by which sentinels are made to advance, a cock flaps his wings, Louis XIV. comes forward, and a figure of Victory or Fame descending from the skies crowns him with a golden chaplet. In this chamber many of the most important designs on which the ■state of Europe depended, were discussed and planned. The (Eilde Bceuf, where the courtiers were accustomed to await the King’s rising, and many a scandalous intrigue was carried on. The Salle des Pendules, so called from a curious clock in it. This clock shews the days of the month, the phases of the moon, the revolutions of the earth, and the motions of the planets, besides the hour, the minute, and the second of the day. A meridian traced on the floor by Louis XVI., and a marble table with a plan of the forest of St. Germain engraved upon it should be noticed here. After this, we enter the suite of apartments peculiarly associated with the memory of Marie Antoinette, amongst which we may mention the bed chamber where this unfortu¬ nate queen slept when the people burst into the palace on the 5th of October, 1789, and from which she escaped by a corridor leading to the (Eil de Bceuf. The furniture of these apartments is very chaste, and is presented just as that unfortunate queen left it. There is in a recess in one of the rooms a series of mirrors, so planted that the person who looks into either of them shall see everything but his head. The Esalier de Marbre, or marble staircase, should be remarked as being one of the finest in France. The other rooms of the palace are too nu¬ merous to be mentioned individually, but we will advise the visitor of the series of portrait galleries that occupies the upper stories. Here may be seen the portraits of the kings and queens of France from the earliest periods, of the princes and dukes of royal descent, also of the principal personages, military, civil, and ecclesiastical, who have managed the affairs of the kingdom. There are also portraits of foreign princes and high personages, amongst which will be seen those of George IV., the Queen, and Prince Albert, nor should we forget the homage done to foreign genius and learning in this gallery, since we find among the notables of France the portraits of our country¬ men Pitt, Fox, Locke,Newton, and Brougham. To view the private apartments of Louis XIV. and the theatre, it is necessary to have a special order which maybe obtained at the “Ministers de la Maison de l’Empereur.” ..^Having thus satisfied ourselves with the beauties and curiosities of the interior of the chateau, we will take a ramble through the park, and admire the magnificent assemblage of works of art, contrasting immediately with those of nature. Immediately in front of the building is a vast terrace, adorned by four statues,representingAntinous,Silenus, Bacchus, and Apollo, by Keller. The gardens which surround it are decorated by fountains issuing from a variety of statuary. To the right, on leaving the chateau, is an avenue leading to the grand fountains called the Basin of Neptune. But descending the avenue, directly in front of the palace called the Tapis Vert, we come upon a beautiful fountain, the Basin of Latona , from which we have a fine view of the Fountain of Apollo at tlie further end of the avenue, and 38 PALACE OF VERSAILLES. the lake beyond. Turning down the alleys to the left, we shall come upon several beautiful fountains and parterres, amongst them is the Bosquet du roi, the Bosquet de la Salle du Bal , where the court formerly danced on summer evenings, the Quincunx du Midi ornamented with eight termini, and the Bosquet de la Colonnade , an enclosed grove with a splendid rotunda composed of thirty-two marble pillars of the Ionic order, with jets d’eau, thrown up between each of them. Descending the alleys still further, we arrive upon the Basin of Apollo , the largest fountain in the park, with the exception of the Basin of Neptune. Apollo is here represented issuing from the water in a chariot drawn by four-horses, and surrounded by dolphins, tritons, and sea-monsters. Pursuing the alle to the left, or now facing the palace, we shall find some of the finest fountains. Amongst them we would par¬ ticularize the Bains d' Apollon , a beautiful artificial waterfall issuing from deep caverns, at the entrance of which are groups of nymphs. High rocks are here imitated with a very fine effect, and the delusion is so complete that we cannot but fancy we are looking upon a real and natural waterfall. When we have ex¬ amined all these we must still reserve ourselves for the most splendid of all the fountains, the Basin of Neptune, behind the Parterre du Nord. Twenty-two vases are arranged around the margin. Against the side are three immense groups, representing Neptune and Amphitrite, Proteus and Ocean, whilst two colossal dragons, bearing cupids, repose upon pedestals at the angles. From these groups a flood of water is sent forth, which is further increased by mag¬ nificent jets arranged in different parts of this vast basin. The grand eaux , or great fountains, play but seldom in the course of the year, and that on Sundays. Should the visitor be fortu¬ nate enough to have it in his power to see them, he should follow the stream of people in their examination of the playing waters. They commence to play at 4 o’clock, and continue until 6 o’clock. When all the others are in full play, and the people have had time to inspect them, that is about 5 o’clock, then the magnificent waters of the Basin of Neptune are let forth. The volumes of water they exhaust are so great that they are not allowed to play more than twenty minutes. Opposite the south wing of the chateau is the Orangerie , well worth seeing, where the orange trees and pomegranates are kept during the winter. One of the orange trees is called the Grand Bourbon , because it belonged to the constable Bourbon, whose property was con¬ fiscated, and with it this fruit tree. It is a contemporary of Francis I. The seeds from which it sprang were sown in 1421, by Leonora of Castille, wife of Charles III., King of Navarre, so that this tree has acquired a land of historical notoriety. From the avenue d’Apollon, a, road te the right, through the wood, leads direct to the Grand Trianon , a delightful little residence built by Louis XIY. in 1683, for Madame de Maintenon. It is nearly 400 feet long, contains but a ground floor, and is divided by a pavilion into two parts, united by a peristyle, supported by twenty-two Ionic pil¬ lars, eight of green marble, the remainder of red Languedoc marble. Mansard has the credit of being the architect, but he was also assisted in the design by Le Notre and Decotte. We remark among the curiosities of the Grand Trianon, a bas-relief presented by the Queen Dowager of Naples, to the late Madame Adelaide^ also portraits of Madame Maintenon, Marie Leczinski, wife of Louis XY., of Marie Therese, Marie Antoinette, Louis XV. &c. 7 and a circular bason of malachite resting on an ormolu tripod, presented to Napoleon by the Emperor Alexander. The long gallery contains valuable paintings by Roger, Bidault, Johannot, &c. The apartments have been successively used by Louis XIY., XY., and MUSEE d’ARTILLERIE. BB' XVI., and Napoleon, and may now be seen left in the same condition as that in which they were arranged for the reception of Queen Victoria, who was expected to make a visit to Paris some time back. The gardens are laid out in the style of the grand gardens and are decorated with fountains and statues. To the right is the Petit Trianon , composed of a square pavilion containing a ground floor and two stories.. The interior is elegantly fitted up and enriched with paintings, by Dejeunne. The Petit Trianon was occupied by the Duchess of Orleans. The gardens are laid out in the English style. Visitors may view the Trianons every day except Fridays, between 11 and 5. FIFTH DAY. MUSEE D’ARTILLERIE—PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS—PLACE, FOUNTAIN, AND CHURCH OF ST. SULPICE—PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG — STATUE OF MARSHAL NEY — OBSERVATOIRE — VAL. DE GRACE—PANTHEON—BIBLIOTHEQUE—STE GENEVIEVE—ST. ETIENNE DU MONT—EGOLE- POLYTECHNIQUE — COLLEGE LOUIS LE GRAND—SORBONNE — HOTEL CLUNY—THEATRE ODEON—HOTEL DES MONNAIES. We will devote this day to visiting some of the Museums and Public Monuments of Paris which claim our notice, on the south side of the river. To take them, therefore, in the most convenient order, we will commence with the Musee d* Artillerie, situated in the Place Saint Thomas d’Aquin, Rue du Bac. This museum is amongst the most curious and inte¬ resting in Paris, consisting of a fine collection of such arms, offensive and defensive, as have been used in warfrom the earliest periods. These are distributed in six grand saloons or galleries. In the Gallerie des Armures which is divided into three departments by a fine colonnade, are arranged chronologically, according to the characteristic points of the age to which they belong, the defensive armour anciently em¬ ployed in battle, such as entire suits of armour, coats of mail, cuirasses, casques, shields, &e. In a gallery parallel with this is placed a collection of swords and bayonets, ancient and modem. In the three other saloons of the museum is disposed in regular order the collection of protective fire-arms, and extends back as far as the arquebus, with its quaint and impracticable fire-lock, and comes down, to the most finished improvement on the- system of percussion locks. Enclosed in glass- frames will be found everything of the kind that is valuable and curious by the beauty of its- workmanship, by the richness of its ornament,, by the singularity of its forms, ox by its his¬ torical importance. Opposite the stand of arms is a suite of tables upon which are placed models of ma¬ chines and instruments, used in the artillery service, and models of machines, instruments,, and tools, necessary for the construction of weapons of war, and to the different trades which* form branches of it. On the walls, between the windows of the third and fourth g a.ll p.ries, are hung assortments of instruments, either for making or proving weapons of destruction, an enumeration of which would take up too much space. The museum is open every Thursday, from 12 to 4. 40 PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS—PLACE ST. SULPICE. Returning to the Rue de l’Universite, which crosses the Rue du Bac, near the Musee, and continuing along it and the Rue Jacob, until lie arrive at the Rue Bonaparte, the visitor must turn to the left, when he will come to the Palais des Beaux Arts. —In 1791 the Convent des Petits Augustins suffered the same spoliation which befel most of the buildings belonging to the religious orders at this period. But, more fortunate than the others, it was converted into a depository of the different works of art, taken from proscribed churches nnd chateaux. At the restoration, restitution was made to the proprietors of the different objects that had been collected here. However, in 1819, it was ordered that on this spot a -suitable building should be erected, devoted to the teaching of the fine arts, to replace the old academies founded by Louis XIY. The first stone was laid in 1820, and the •edificefinished in 1832, after designs by Debret. Two courts, separated by the Arc Gaillon , a relic of the Chateau d’Amboise, and enclosed by a superb iron railing, front the palace. In the first is the elegant portal, brought from the chateau d’ Anet, which was built for Diana of Poitiers in 1548. Round the walls of the inner court are sculptured the names of the most famous artists of all countries. The facade of the palace is 240 feet long and <60 feet high. The ground floor is of the Tuscan order of architecture, the floor above this of the Ionic, whilst the attic which surmounts it is of the rennaissant style. A vestibule adorned with arches and marble columns leads to a double staircase, richly decorated, conducting to the first floor. Those of the pupils belonging to the school of the palace who obtain the first prize, are sent to Rome for three years, at the public expense, and an exhibition of the w'orks they send home is annually held here. The galleries to the north are devoted to paintings, that to the south to architecture. On the | second floor are kept all the pictures which have gained the highest prizes. In the Salle des Models are models of the most celebrated Greek, Roman, Egyptian, and Indian monu¬ ments. The semicircle of the great amphi¬ theatre is adorned with frescoes, by Paul Delaroche. The Palais des Beaux Arts is opened every Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, from 12 to 4 p.m. On leaving the Palais the visitor must con¬ tinue up the Rue Bonaparte, when he will come upon The Place St. Sulpice—In this place which has recently been planted with trees, a flower market is held three times a week. A very elegant fountain erected by order of the first Hapoleon, after the designs of the late Visconti, stands in the centre. It is constructed of stone, and presents the form of a pavilion with four angles, crowned by a dome. Around it are three basin placed one above the other, and flanked by lions. The water escapes from four vases, and falls in a cascade into the basins. In the niches which adorn the pavilion, are figures of Fenelon, Bossuet, Flechier, and Massillon. On the south-side of the place is the great seminary for Roman Catholic priests; to the right is an elegant building serving as a barracks, and opposite is the Church of St. Sulpice. This church is founded on the remains of an ancient chapel, dedicated to St. Peter. The first stone of the present edifice was laid in 1646, by Anne of Austria, mother of Louis XIV., but owing to several inteiTuptions, and especially thewantof money, it was not finished until 1745. The expense of the building was finally defrayed by a lottery. The facade of this church is very fine. Twelve Doric columns, forty-two feet high, supporting an entablature of thirteen feet in height, form the portico, over which is a gallery supported by a corresponding number of Ionic pillars. Two towers, one square, the other octangular, both sur~.muted PALAIS DE LUXEMBOURG. 41 with round turrets, terminate the front. These | were erected at different periods. That to the south, begun so late as 1777, is still left in an unfinished state. The height of this tower measures 210 feet. The building is in the form of a Latin cross, at the further end of which is the choir. In the interior the position of the high altar, which is between the nave and the choir, and surrounded by statues of the twelve apostles, produces a fine effect. Two large shells, a present from the Venetian Republic to Francis I., and resting upon rough rock, contain holy water in the nave. Behind the choir is a chapel to the Virgin, lighted very artistically, so as to produce a mysterious effect. The I statue of the virgin, which is of white marble, is beautifully executed. Most of the chapels are embellished by good frescoes. The pulpit, i it should be observed, has no other support j than the stairs; and the visitor will be pleased to remark the meridian line at the bottom of the lateral aisle on the north side. This meridian marks the spring equinox, and winter solstice. On leaving the church, the visitor must take the street immediately to the left, the Rue Ferou. This will bring him in two or three minutes to the Palais de Luxembourg. Palais de Luxembourg, or du Senat. —A palace was begun on this site so early as the end of the fifteenth century, by Robert de Sancy, but was not completed until 1583, when it was enlarged and finished by the Duke Epinay de Luxembourg. Marie de Medicis, whilst regent of France, purchased it for 20,000£; and requiring some adjacent land, had it demolished, and a more magnificent one built, after designs by Jacques Desbrosses. After passing through several ducal hands, it was sold in 1692, to Louis XIV., and lastly, became the residence of the Count of Provence, who was driven from it in 1791, just ninety- nine years later. During the early part of F the revolution, the palace was converted into a prison, in which Josephine Beauharnais, after the empress Josephine, was confined with her husband. In 1795, the Directory used it as a place of assembly. Bonaparte made it the Palais du Consulat et du Senat. From 1814 to 1848, the peers of the kingdom legislated there: since the restoration of the empire, the Senate once more hold their deliberations there, and the president of the senate occupies it as a place of residence. The plan of the building is that of a square;, the court of the principal entrance, which measures 360 feet by 210, is enclosed on the side next the street by a fa£ade which forms a terrace, in the middle of which is a pavilion, highly ornamented, and containing some fine sculpture. The beauty and richness of the architecture of this palace is much admired in all its details. At the extremities of the terrace, are two other pavilions, joined to the main body of the building by two connecting wings. The facade towards the garden differs little from that towards the street. The Pavilion de l’Horloge, in the middle, is em¬ bellished bv allegorical figures. In the various salons of the palace are some fine sculpture; amongst them, figures of Aristides, Cincinnatus, Leonidas, Solon, Peri¬ cles, Cicero, &c. In the Salle de Messages , a painting by Caminade, representing Charles IX. receiving the keys of Paris; St. Louis, by Flandrin, and the Due de Guise, by Vin- chon, should be observed; and in the Salle des Conferences , some beautiful Gobelin tapes¬ try. The old Salle des Seances which was opened for the Peers of France in 1844, was unfortunately burnt in October, 1859, and the sittings of the senate now take place in a hall formed out of three others, called the Salle du Trone , and richly adorned. The library of the palace contains upwards of 15,000 volumes, most of them of great value. 42 PALAIS AND JARDIN DE LUXEMBOURG. On the ground floor is the Chapelle de Marie de Medicis , a small quadrangular chamber of the Doric order, and highly decorated. Four pictures, representing the apostle Philip, St. Louis in Palestine, St. Louis pardoning trai¬ tors, and the Marriage of the Virgin, grace the walls opposite the windows; and behind the high altar, is a laige fresco, the subject of which is taken from chapter IV. of the Reve¬ lations. Samuel White, an American artist, nas supplied the Adoration of the Shepherds , which forms the altar-piece. The Chambre a Coucher of Marie de Medicis, is a splendid room, containing paintings by Rubens, Philip de Champagne, and Nicolas Poussin. The arm-chairs we see here were used at the ceremonial of the coronation of the first Napoleon. After having seen these apartments, the private apartments of the palace, we will visit the Musee des Tableaux , or Picture Gal¬ lery. The entrance is on the eastern side of the building, and at the angle nearest the street. This gallery was commenced by Catherine de Medicis, and consisted princi¬ pally of four and twenty pictures by Rubens. This collection was afterwards increased by various additions. It is now devoted to the works of living French artists, who have pro¬ duced a work considered sufficiently excellent to be purchased for the nation: but, owing to the rule, that on the decease of such artist, the pictures placed in the Luxembourg, shall be removed to the Louvre, a constant alteration is taking place in the arrangements. Amongst the present collection, those most worthy of inspection are:— The Death of Queen Elizabeth, by Paul De la Roche. Landscape and Animals, by Beascassat. Evening, by Charles Gleyee. Cain after tne Muraer of Abel, by Paulin Guerin. The Malaria*^ J^pgust Hebert. Subject taken from the History of the Jews. Heim. Shepherds, and view of the deserted port of Ambleteuse, near Boulogne. Piiillippe Auguste Jeanron Desolation of the Oceanides, at the foot of the rock where Prometheus is bound. Lehmann. Lady Macbeth. Charles Louis Muller. Reading the list of names of the last victims of the Reign of Terror. Muller. Scene taken from the Coast of Normandy. Camilla Roqueplan. Charlotte Corday, when she had just assassinated Marat. Henri Scheffer. Massacre of the Mamelukes, in the castle of Cairo, by order of Mehemet Ali. Horace Vernet. Judith and Holophernes. HoeaceVernet Raphael at the Vatican. HoeaceVernet. Landscape in Savoy. Louis Etienne Watelet. Two exquisite Farm Paintings, by Rosa Bonheur. The Jar din de Luxembourg, the most beautifully arranged garden in Paris, and the constant resort of the students of the Sor- bonne, and the families of the middling classes of the neighbourhood. It was at first planted after the plans of Desbrosses, but during the period of the early revolution, it was much defaced, to make way for cafes, &c. During the empire, it was again restored to some¬ thing of its original beauty, and has since been considerably embellished. To the west is a fine grove of trees, beneath which im¬ mense numbers of children sport on summer evenings. Immediately in front of the southern fa9ade of the palace, is a delightful flower- garden, stocked with the most beautiful flowers, and adorned with a fountain and basin, and several marble statues. A stone balustrade which is reached by a flight of OBSEEVATOIRE—HOPITAL MILITAIRE—PAXT1IEON. teps, separate the flower-garden from the grove of trees, which encircle it almost en¬ tirely, leaving only space for the grand avenue facing the palace. Statues of the queens and heroines of France, from the time of Phara- mond, down to the seventeenth century, are i ranged round the outskirts of the trees, amongst which should he noticed, those of Joan of Arc and Marie Stuart , on the eastern side. Having walked through the gardens, we will ' proceed down the grand avenue, and leaving the gardens by the iron gateway at the southern extremity, we shall pass out into the Avenue of the Observatory. On the left, about half¬ way down, is the statue recently erected to the memory of Marshal Ney , exactly on the I spot where he was shot as a traitor. He is represented leading on his men to action, and encouraging them by his voice and example. The building at the further end of the avenue is The Observatoire Imperiale -This building was begun in 1667, in connection with the Academy of Sciences, then recently established, and finished in 1672. It was found, however, inconvenient for astronomica purposes, and a small building to the east of it was accordingly erected. It is a curious fact that neither wood nor iron enters into the construction of the building. The Observa¬ toire contains a good collection of telescopes, magnetic instruments, globes, &c. In a room on the second storey, is a meridian traced on the floor; and two instruments fixed here, give an account of how much rain has fallen in Paris during the year. The Bureau des Longitudes holds its sittings here; and in one of the wings of the building is an amphi¬ theatre, capable of holding eight hundred persons, where lectures are given to young students. Marble statues of Casini, Laplace, and other illustrious astronomers, adorn the •oorns of the interior. The late M. Arago had iis residence here. On leaving the Observa- toire, the visitor, having his back upon it r must take the first turning to the right, the Rue Cassini , and pursue it until he come to the Rue St. Jacques. Turning to the left, and descending it for a short distance, he will see before him The Hopital Militaire and Cbnrch of Val-d e- Gr a ce, built by Anne of Austria, after designs by Mansard. After being married twenty-two years to Louis XIII., and having no children, this queen made vows in several chapels, amongst others in that of Val-de- Grace, and promised to build a church if she had an heir. Shortly after this Louis XIV. was born to her, and, to perform her vow y laid the first stone of the present edifice shortly after. In the court is a monument to Larry the celebrated surgeon, who served in the armies of Napoleon. The exterior arid the interior of this church, the plan of which is- that of a Latin cross, is very fine. The front is ornamented with a portico of Corinthian, columns; the nave is intersected at the tran¬ sept by four lofty arches. Above the arches- are figures of the Virtues in high relief; the ceiling is also divided into compartments,, highly decorated, and filled with figures of saints. Behind the altars are chapels, sepa¬ rated by iron railings from the body of the building, where the nuns and superiors of the convent attend mass. The remains of Hen ¬ rietta Maria, wife of Charles 1st, were placed in the vault beneath this church. Descending the Eue St. Jacques until it crosses the Rue Soufflot , we have to the right of us The Pantheon, now the church of S U Genevieve, with its lofty porch and magni¬ ficent dome. On this site stood formerly a church, built by Clovis at the intercession of St. Genevieve and Clotilda his wife; but this church having fallen into decay, Louis XV. I determined to erect a grand and magnificent I one in its place. Soufflet furnished the plan, 44 PANTHEON. and on the 6th of September, 1764, the foun- < dation stone of the new structure was laid by 1 the king, in great pomp and solemnity, all his i court attending. A lottery was also estab- , ished to defray the expenses. The proportions of this building are truly noble. The tym¬ panum of the portico, which is supported by twenty-two fluted Corinthian pillars, is 121 feet in breadth and 22 feet in height. Alle¬ gorical figures grace this tympanum, repre¬ senting Genius and Science on either side of France. On the right of her are those amongst her sons who have illustrated their country by their pen, as Yoltaire, Rousseau, Fenelon, Mirabeau, Lafayette, Canot, &c.; on the left are grouped her military heroes, at the head of whom is placed Napoleon. History and Liberty are also represented at the feet of France, writing down the names of her great men, and weaving garlands for their brows. By a decree of the Assembled Constituante, in 1791, the building was converted into a temple, where were to repose the ashes of the great men of the country. The inscription, “ Aux grands hommes la Patrie reconnaissante ,” written in characters of gold over the portico that still remains, attests this purpose. To Mira¬ beau, who died the same year, the first honours of this sepulture was decreed. The plan of the church is that of a Greek cross. The interior is devoid of much ornament, but the yastness of its size and sublimity of its triple dome, give it an imposing air, which would be destroyed were there introduced those details which so well embellish smaller edifices. The length of the building is 302 feet, its width 255 at the transept. The top of the cupola is 268 feet above the pavement, and reached by a flight of 475 steps. In the south transept is an altar to St. Genevifeve, to whom the church is dedicated, and in the north another to the Yirgin, both of them very elegant. Copies by M. Baize, of the frescoes of Michael Angelo and Raphael in the Vati¬ can, adorn the walls; and on the spandrils of the arches which support the dome are four allegorical paintings, representing Death, Justice, France, and Napoleon. The cupola is painted by Legros, and consists of four groups, each containing a monarch of France whose reign is supposed to form an epoch in her history. The four are Clovis, Charle¬ magne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII. They each pay homage to St. Genevieve, who descends from the heavens in clouds to greet them. Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis • XIV., and Madame Elizabeth are con¬ spicuous personages in this high drama. The painting covers 3,721 square yards; the artist received £4,000 for his work, and was created a baron. The Lantern that crowns the summit of the dome is very high, being not less than 450 feet above the level of the Seine. The ascent to it is very easy, and, from the gallery on the outside, a magnificent bird’s eye view of Paris and the vicinity around may be obtained. The visitor by this time we pre¬ sume is pretty familiar with the aspect of most of the buildings and prominent objects of Paris, to determine many of the edifices for himself. However, as there are some places he has not seen, and therefore will not be able to recognize for himself, we will point them out. In front of the church are the Palais and Gardens of the Luxembourg, and beyond the Hotel des Invalides, to the left, Val de Grace and the Observatoire. Inclining to the right, the visitor will observe the Sorbonne, the towers of St. Sulpice, the Tuileries, the i church of the Assumption, recognized by its magnificent dome rising beyond the trees, and l the Column Vendome. To the east may be l seen the Jardin des Plantes, the Wine Market, l the Column of Juillet, with its gilded figure r 0 f Victory, the twin-pillars at the Barriere du 5 Trone, and away still further, emerging from - the woods, the lofty and substantial towers of BIBLIOTHEQUE—ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. 45 the Fortress of Vincennes. On the hills to the left, the long range of building that may be seen there is the prison of the Bicetre; to the north the eye ranges over a variety of buildings, and sees stretched out the greater part of Paris. Crossing the river, the most prominent objects are the Hotel de Ville, St. Gervais, and, further to the right, the Ecole de Charlemagne; to the left the tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, behind which rise St. Eustache, the Bourse, the Portes St. Denis and St. Martin, and the Sta¬ tion of the Strasbourg railway, whilst the heights of Montmartre and Belleville bound this beautiful panorama. The river, which may be descried dividing the city into two unequal parts, maybe traced towards the east, until its windings are lost far beyond St. Mande and Charenton, and the distant vine-covered valley. Immediately beneath the Pantheon will be per¬ ceived the Mairie of the 12th Arondissement, the Ecole de Droit, the Bibliotheque de St. Genevieve, St. Etienne duMont, and the Lycee Napoleon, an old building, with a church tower and cloisters. This college was for¬ merly called the College of Henry IV.; in 1848 it received the name of Lycee Corneille, since 1851 it is known as the Lycee Napoleon. It was here that the sons of Louis Philippe were first educated. In the vaults of the Pantheon are the tombs of Voltaire and Bousseau. The remains of Mirabeau were removed shortly after their interment by one of those capricious freaks which drive the people into a sudden determi¬ nation, however unjust or absurd it may be. The remains of several distinguished marshals and generals of Napoleon’s army repose here, also those of Soufflot, the architect of the edifice. The first interment of celebrity which we read of here, was that of Clovis, in the year a.d 511. During the insurrection of June, 1848, the Pantheon was the scene of a sanguinary con¬ flict. The insurgents had taken possession of the building, and it was necessary to bring heavy pieces of artillery to bear upon them, to dislodge them; the marks of the firing might still be seen some time after on the walls of the church, and the bronze doors, but since the building has been converted into a church, the damage then done has been repaired. However, traces of the conflict may be seen, in the holes pierced in the pictures that line the south and north walls, caused by bullets fired from muskets. On the 2nd December, 1851, the edifice was given to the Roman Catholic Church by the present Emperor as a place for divine worship. To descend into the vaults of this church a fee of four sous is demanded; but when this is paid, nothing further is required, to ascend to the lantern. The ascent is comparatively easy, and very well lighted. Opposite the north side of the Pantheon is the Bifoliotheque de St. Genevieve, which used to form part of the College of Henry IV., but which has recently been transferred to the present building. It contains 250,000 volumes and 30,000 MSS., besides busts and portraits o celebrated men. It is open every day, except Sundays and Fete-days, from 10 to 3, and from 6 to 10. On the south side are inscribed the names of those who have distinguished them¬ selves in the walks of science and literature, not only in France but in foreign countries. To the right of the library is the Church of St. Etienne du Mont, the date of whose erection goes back so far as the early part of the eleventh century, when the square tower and turret we now see were pro¬ bably built. The portal was constructed in 1610. The interior of this church is very beautiful; a gallery consisting of a low elliptical arch, with two spiral staircases of exquisite detail leading up to it, traverses the body of the building in the middle. On the right is the tomb of St. Genevieve, the patroness of Paris, enclosed by railings, upon which tapers are always burning. COLLEGE LOUIS LE GRAXDE—SOEBONKE—HOTEL DE CLUNY. The painted glass which adorns the windows is very fine, and belongs to the 16th century. Several valuable pictures may be seen here; amongst them, the Preaching of Stephen , by Pujol; St. Genevieve praying to Heaven to appease a Storm , by Grenier; and St. Peter curing the Side , by Jouvenet. This I°ws col¬ lecting manna , and St. Bernard praying, are nlso good paintings. On the wall, near the chapel of St. Genevieve, is an epitaph written on Racine, by Boileau, and another on Pascal, who was buried in this church. Behind this church, in the Rue Descartes, is situated the Ecole Polytechnique. Retracing our steps by the Rue Soufflot, as far as the Rue de Cluny , and descending it, we pass by first the College of Henri IV., now the Lycee Napoleon , which stands back a little way, and the Sorbonne , then the College Louis le Grand, or Lycee Descartes as it has since been called. It was founded by the Jesuits in 1568, and re¬ constructed in 1682. It has, since the revolu¬ tion, received several names; that of Lycee Descartes was given it in 1848. The building is of a very quaint style. The dead and Pastern languages as well as the elements of science are taught here. The Sorbonne. —This university derives its name from Robert Sorbon, confessor to St. Louis, who founded the schools here about the middle of the 18th century. In 1629 the old building was restored by Cardinal Riche¬ lieu, who had graduated there, and still retained a feeling of filial veneration for the place. In the chapel attached to the Institution is the tomb of the Cardinal—a chef d’oeuvre, by Girardon. The two figures, Science and Religion, are said to be portraits of the Duchesses of Guyon and Fronsac, nieces of the Cardinal. The three faculties of Belles Lettres, Science, and Theology are taught here gratuitously, the professors being paid by the government^ There is a similar in- j stitution, the College Imperial de France , in Place Cambria, in this locality. It was founded by Francis I. Descending the street, we arrive in front of The Hotel Cluny and Palais des Themes, one of the most interesting public places of Paris. The Palais des Thermes , of which the ruins are still to be seen, in con¬ junction with the Hotel Cluny, is supposed to have been built by the emperor Julian, though others assert that Constantius Chlorus was the founder of it. Whatever may be the truth of these two assertions, there can be no doubt that the origin of the palace mounts up to a very early period. In the year 865, Yalentinian and Valence resided in it; and the same was occupied by Gratian, Maximus, and several others of the Caesars. After them it became the residence of the early kings of France; it was, however, pillaged by the Normans during their devastating invasions, and finally sold by Philippe Agustus to his chamberlain. The palace was then divided into several distinct residences. In 1834 an Abbe of Cluny bought a part of it, to which he gave the name of the Hotel Cluny, whose history we will pursue a little further. The present building was erected in 1490. A hundred years later it was in the hands of a body of comedians, who acted their plays there, and gained such a reputation that it was jocularly said—The four best preachers in Paris put together, * failed to obtain so goodly an audience as the players. In 1625 it was bought by the Abbess of Port Royal, and continued in the hands of the sisterhood until the revolution, when the horrible Marat held his meetings there. After this epoch it passed into the hands of several proprietors, and lastly into those of M. Dusommerard, the distinguished savant and virtuoso, who spent large sums of money in forming a collection of the most rare and precious objects of art, of ECOLE DE MEDICINE—HOTEL DES MONNAIES. 47 furniture utensils, and curiosities of the mid¬ dle age, and which he distributed in different apartments of his hotel. The museum became at length so fine, that the government thought it ought to become national property. It accordingly purchased the hotel and its valuable contents from its possessor. In this palace Mary, sister of Henry VIII. of England, and widow of Louis XII., resided after the death of her husband; and the bed¬ room in which she slept is still known as the Chamber of the White Queen , it being the cus¬ tom of the queens of France to wear white for their mourning. Here also James V. of Scotland celebrated his marriage with the daughter of Francis I. The golden altar given to the Cathedral pf Basie, by Henry II., and the crown of Recesriathus, ldng of the Goths in G49, are among the curiosities here. The architecture of this building is admired for the grace, the finish, and the lightness of its sculptures. It partakes of the Gothic and rennaissant style, and is in a state of perfect preservation. The visitor enters by a court, on the right of which is a bureau, where he has to deposit his stick or umbrella if he has one. He then proceeds to the interior; the first room he passes through contains mosaics, reliefs, and plaster models, well worth examining. The other rooms, retaining their ancient character, are adorned with magnifi¬ cent fire-places, vast marble chimney pieces, beautifully stained glass windows, and all the decorations of the mediaeval period. In the Chambre de la Eeine Blanche, amongst a variety of other objects of art, such as ivory cabinets, curiously-painted vases, and all the paraphernalia of a lady’s toilet in those days, are to be seen several fine bas-reliefs and paintings, of which we may enumerate the Diana Venetrix, by Primaticcio, and Mary Magdalene at Marseilles , painted by King Rene of Provence. The Chapel is considered a chef-d'oeuvre for the airiness and delicacy of its decorations. A stone staircase leads down from the chapel into the garden, and from thence into the Palais des Thermes , of which only the cold baths remain; they are sixty feet in length, and thirty-five in width. The passages by which the water was con¬ ducted may easily be seen. The hotel is open every day except Monday, from 12 to 4. The streets about this quarter of Paris are rather complicated, but if, on leaving the Hotel de Cluny, the visitor descends by the Rue de PEcole de Medicine, he will pass by the Institution devoted to the educa¬ tion of the students of medicine. This edifice, which consists of four divisions enclosing a spacious court, was commenced in 1769, and finished in 1786. The peristyle is formed of four rows of pillars; another peristyle is sur¬ mounted by a triangular tympanum, upon which allegorical figures are ^sculptured. The interior is decorated with appropriate paint¬ ings and busts of the most celebrated physi¬ cians and surgeons of France. The amphi¬ theatre is capable of holding 1,200 persons. Twenty-three professors are attached to the Institution, who treat all branches of the art. Pursuing the same street we shall arrive at the Carrefour de VOdeon, or a place where several streets meet. Glancing up the centre one to our left, we see the front of the Odeon Theatre. A theatre was erected on this spot in 1779, but was burnt down in 1818. It is frequented by the students of the Latin Quarter, and for the quality of its per¬ formance only ranks second to the Theatre Frantjais; it is capable of containing 1,700 persons. The prices range from 1 to 5 francs; the Stalles de Balcon, and the Stalles d’ Orchestra are 3| and 3 francs; the Parterre, or Pit 1 franc 50 cents. This theatre is closed during a part of the summer. Performances at 7. Descending by the Rues Ancienne Comedia and Dauphine, we shall arrive on the Quai 48 EOIS DE BOLOGNE. Conti. To the left, hardly fifty yards, is the handsome building of the Hotel des Moimaies (or the Mint), built in 1771, The principal entrance is by the richly-decorated gate in the centre of the fa 9 ade. In the interior, which is beautifully adorned with pillars and galleries, is a cabinet of mineralogy, containing a vast number of specimens of minerals, collected with the greatest care by the late Lesage. The Salon des Medailles possesses a complete collection of medals struck from the time of Francis 1 st: the collection of medals and coins in this establish¬ ment is said to be one of the richest and most curious in Europe. There are other saloons devoted to their special object in the coinage of money. These cannot be visited without a special permission from the director. The cabinets of mineralogy and medals are open every day from ten to two. The very ancient church ot St. Germain des Pres , at the end of Rue Bonaparte, in this neighbourhood, deserves examination, as well as the remains of the extensive Abbey, of which it was a part. SIXTH DAY. BOSS DE BOULOGNE. ST. CLOUD, SEVRES, MEUDCN. It is proposed that the visitor should pass this, the sixth day, in enjoying the fresh air of the country, and visiting the Chateau of St. Cloud , the Porcelain manufactory at Sevres , and the beautiful terraces of Bellevue and Meudon. There are four ways to get to St. Cloud; one by the railway to Versailles, which, as the visitor knows, makes a con¬ siderable detour around Paris; another by the railway to Auteuil; the third by omnibus from the Place de la Concorde, by the Cours la Reine, Pont de Jena, Passy, and Sevres; the fourth by the Chemin-de-fer Americain, direct from the Place de la Concorde to the village of Boulogne. A walk of a few minutes across the bridge leads to the Chateau. We think that the railway via Auteuil will be the best, as it is by far the shortest, will diversify the trip, and enable the visitor to see the wood and lakes of Boulogne. The trains start from the railway-station, Place-du-Havre , the same station as we go to for Versailles, every half-hour. The office for the Bois de Boulogne is on the left. Having got two tickets, which costs five sous, second class, or ten sous first class, the visitor takes his place and proceeds the whole distance to Auteuil. As the road is cut con¬ siderably under the level of the ground, there is no opportunity afforded of seeing the coun¬ try until we arrive at Passy, when the green trees and grass burst upon us. The next station is Auteuil. On descending from the train, the Bois de Boulogne is on the right. Having crossed the fortifications, the visitor will do well to pene¬ trate into the wood by one of the avenues to the right, and he will then shortly arrive upon the lakes. These lakes afford abundant sources of recreation to the gay Parisians, who habitually make the Bois de Boulogne the course of their promenades. The wood derives its name from a considerable village which lies to the west of it, and through which the visitor will pass. Before the year 1790, the trees were of small growth, or decaying, from their great age. They were, during the revolution, cleared away in a great measure; and what was not then destroyed, was after¬ wards cut down in the year 1814, for the defence of Paris against the approach of the allied forces. The English encamped here under Wellington in the following year. From that time the greater part of it has been planted, ST. CLOUD. 49 new walks made, and a variety of improve¬ ments taken place. The new Hippodrome or Bace Course of 153 acres extent, near the village, is placed under the management of the French Jockey Club. An artificial cas¬ cade or water fall, 27 feet high, is a favourite resort. It is fed by the lake behind it, and is ornamented with rock work. To the north¬ west of the wood are the remains of the abbey of Longchamp, celebrated towards the middle of the seventeenth century for its choir of nuns, and whither, on the Wednesday and Thursday in Passion Week, the elite of Paris flocked to hear the music and singing. From this circumstance has sprung up the Fete de Long champs, when the wealthy display their fine equipages, and the fair their fine habili¬ ments, by driving out to the wood and back. In fact, it is considered the time for com¬ mencing to wear the new fashions for the spring season. On retracing our steps to Auteuil, we shall find at the station an omnibus, which will take us on to St. Cloud, for the small sum of two sous. St. Cloud derives its name from Cleodald, grandson of Clovis, who escaped assassination when his two brothers were murdered by their uncles Clotaire and Childebert, and hid himself in a hermitage in the wood that covered the hill. A village sprang up here, which has been the theatre of bloody conflicts. In 1358, it was pillaged and sacked by the English; again in 1411, by a party of Ar- magnac’s; and during the wars of the League, it was frequently taken and burnt. It was here that Henry III. was assassinated, and in a house near the palace, Henry IV., his suc¬ cessor, resided after the event. During the minority of Louis, the park had already be¬ come celebrated for the beauty of its gardens and its mansion; and the fine view, with the Seine winding along at its feet, was univer¬ sally admired. The king, who w r as desirous of possessing himself of the estate, to make a residence of it for his brother, the duke of Orleans, deputed Cardinal Mazarin to nego- ciate.the purchase of it. This he did, and by chicanery and force, wrested it from its pro¬ prietor, M. Fouquet, for the sum of 300,000?.,. although it had cost the latter upwards of a million in erecting the chateau, and laying out the grounds. Ho sooner was it in regal hands, than three of the principal architects of the time were employed in harmonising the old, and erecting new buildings; whilst Le- notre, taking advantage of the natural position of the grounds, designed the park, the admiration of all visitors. St. Cloud then became the residence of the dukes of Orleans,, until the revolution, when it was made part of the national property. During the empire,. Napoleon frequently resided here with Jose¬ phine, and from this palace Charles X. issued those celebrated ordonnances suggested by Prince Polignac, which led to his banishment in July, 1830. Louis Philippe subsequently inhabited the chateau, and rested there a few moments in February, 1848, during his flight from Paris. It has been fitted up for the young Prince Imperial. Here the Lord Mayor was entertained in 1854. The principal building is after the designs of Mansard, and adorned with Corinthian pillars and bas-reliefs. The front faces the grand avenue of the park, whilst on the left are the cascades and jets d’eau, and on the right the private walks and flower-gardens. The interior of the chateau consists of suites of apartments, to which the visitor approaches by a very richly-ornamented vestibule, in which is a fine statue of Mars recumbent. The first room to be remarked is the Salon de Mars , decorated with marble pil¬ lars of the Ionic order. Amongst the different subjects to be noticed is the ceiling, the com¬ partments of which are embellished by the ST, CLOUD. m pencil of Mignard. The Forges of Yulcan, Mars, and Yenus, accompanied by Cupid and the Graces, Jealousy and Discord may be par¬ ticularised amongst these paintings. W e then enter the Gallerie JAppollon , which is adorned by paintings by the same artist, representing Apollo in most of his mythological forms. Paintings by Canaletti, Yan Oels, and Yan Spaendonk also grace the walls. In this apartment, Pius YII. baptised the eldest son of the king of Holland, now the emperor Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, and here also in 3.810, the civil contract of marriage between Maria Louise and Napoleon was celebrated. At the end of this gallery, a statue of Hor- tense Beauharnais, mother of the present Emperor, stands where the statue of Josephine formerly stood. After this we enter the Salon de Diane. . This saloon is ornamented with some very fine specimens of Gobelin tapestry. The ceiling, painted by Mignard, relates the mythological history of Diana, and is thus in conformity with the Gallerie d'Apollon, which records that of her brother. Adjoining to this is the Chapelle , an elegant chapel adorned with Tuscan pillars. The altar-piece is a chef-d’oeuvre by Lusueur, who has chosen for his subject the Presentation in the Temple. Beturning to the Salon de Mars, we enter the Salon de Venus, which, like the other Salles de Diane,&c.,is called from the sub¬ jects on the ceiling by which it is embellished Juno borrowing the girdle of Venus is the prin¬ cipal painting, and is by Lemoine. This fine apartment is now used as a billiard-room The table, which stands in the centre of it, is very splendidly ornamented, the walls are covered with very beautiful Gobelin tapestry; and the floor is of the nest parquetage. We now come to the Salon de Jen. The principal obj ect of interest in it is a table in mosaic, given by Leo XII. There is also some fine tapestry here, illustrating scenes in history. Adjoining this is the Library , consisting of 12,000 volumes. The other apartments belonging to the grand suite, are the Salon de Mercurie and the Salon de VAurore. In the former, the compartments of the ceiling tell the story of Mercury and Pandora: the paintings are by Aleaux, and in the latter they are embellished by the history of that goddess. The painting is by Loir. There is also some fine Gobelin tapestry in the former. We now enter the Petits Appartements, or those devoted to the comfort and domesticity of the royal house¬ holds who have occupied the chateau. It is here that Marie Antoinette, Josephine, Marie Louise, and the family of Louis Philippe reposed after the fatigues of state duties. The rooms to be particularly noticed are these; the Salle du Consul, formerly the bed-chamber of Marie Antoinette; the Cabinet du Travail , where Louis Philippe rested a few moments during his flight from the Tuileries, the 24th February, 1848 : the Salon de la Reception de la Reine, where may be seen a curious clock, with twelve dials, marking the hours of as many capitals of Europe. All these apart¬ ments are beautifully decorated, and orna¬ mented with superb vases and some fine pictures. Yisitors leave the Chateau by the grand escalier —marble balustrades, and Caen stone steps, over which is the celebrated painting of the reception of Queen Yictoria and the Prince Consort, by the Emperor and Empress, in 1855. The park lies on the road between St. Cloud and Sevres, and is about ten miles in circumference. The fountains and disposition of the waters in this park have for a long time been cele¬ brated, and next to those at Versailles, merit an especial visit. The Haute Cascade , from which the water is first seen issuing, is adorned by a group of statues representing the Seine and Marne, and was designed by Lepantre. SEVRES—MEUDOX. 51 The second fall, called the Basse Cascade, receives the waters of the Haute Cascade, and ejects them in a grand sheet into a canal, along which twelve jets d’eau are ranged. The effect of the waters issuing from urns and dolphins, and other emblematical figures, and falling after a graceful rise, into the different sculptured cisterns intended to receive them, is very magnificent. To the right of the Cascade, is the Grand Jet, also called lejet geant, which throws its waters one hundred and thirty feet above the level of the basin, and as it is situated on high ground, may be seen at a considerable distance spariding in the sun, high above the green foliage of the trees. The rainbows, which the falling spray forms, are very beautiful. Other basins and fountains of extreme elegance are distributed about the grounds. The part of the park now to be sought out is the high terrace in front of the river, from which a fine view of Paris and the surround¬ ing country may be had. It is at the top of the grand avenue, facing the western front of the chateau, and may be distinguished by a kind of watch-tower, called the Lantern of Diogenes, or by others, of Demosthenes, which is built on an open space here. This monu¬ ment was erected by order of Napoleon, and is designed after the original one by Lysicrates at Athens. The waters play at St. Cloud every alter¬ nate Sunday during the summer. To see the interior of the chateau, application must be made to M. le Colonel Commandant a St. Cloud. v Continuing our route by the avenue facing that we ascended from the palace, and taking a pathway to the left, we shall, on arriving at the bottom of the hill, find ourselves at the town, and shortly after at the porcelain manufactory of Sevres.—The town of Sevres is situated on the left bank of the Seine, on the high road between Paris and Versailles. In the rocks that environ it, are immense cellars or underground streets, divided into thirty com¬ partments, where the wine is kept until it has attained a superior quality from age. These cellars are capable of containing upwards of fifteen thousand pipes of wine. But that for which Sevres is chiefly celebrated, is its por¬ celain manufactory. This manufactory was established originally at Vincennes, in the year 1738, under the superintendence of the Mar¬ quis de Fulvy, but was transferred to Sevres in 1759, by order of Louis XV., and was made a government establishment. This manufac¬ tory contains a fine museum of porcelains of every kind, foreign as well as French; modem as well as antique. The workshops where the vases, &c., are fabricated, are very difficult to be seen, but the rest of the establishment may be seen on showing a passport. At a short distance beyond Sevres is the Terrace of Bellevue and the Chateau of Meudon. This chateau stands at the end of a grand avenue, having before it a fine terrace, one thousand seven hundred and thirty feet in length, and five hundred and fifty in breadth, constructed by Henri de Guise, in 1660. During the revolution, the estate was seized by the government, and the grounds con¬ verted into a park for artillery practice. Shortly after this, a part of the chateau was burnt down, when Napoleon ordered the re¬ maining portion to be repaired and enlarged, and the grounds to be laid out in gardens At the restoration, it was made crown property, and subsequently used by the Duke of Bour- deaux until 1831, when it was given as a residence to the Duke of Orleans. It is now occupied by Prince Napoleon Bonaparte. The interior of the building is beautifully fitted up with rich silk and Gobelin tapestry, and contains many works of high eminence, by the first artists of the time. Amongst them mav be mentioned the Group of Cupid 52 BIELIOTHEQUE IMPERIAL!* and Psyche , in marble, in the vestibule; and the paintings by Teniers, Schnetz, Vergnaud, which are all chef-d’oeuvres. The chateau may be visited any day except Fridays, from twelve to four. From the terrace that lines the ground to the east, a most beautiful prospect may be had. Immediately beneath, in the valley, is the prettily situated village of Meudon. It is worth remarking that the satirist and wit Rabelais, was formerly pastor in this village. On the opposite slope of the hill is Fleury, its cottages and summer houses gracefully em¬ bosomed in the fine wood that covers the whole rise. To the left, the landscape is cut as it were by the railway viaduct, consisting of seven beautiful arches, rising upwards of one hundred feet, whilst, beyond the plain of the river, and the busy houses of the city stretch away into the far horizon. On a fine day, this is perhaps one of the finest and most enlivening prospects in the neighbourhood of Paris. When the visitor has sufficiently admired this view, he may return to Paris by taking an omnibus at Sevres, or by the railway at Bellevue, which is half way down the hill. If by the latter means, he will enter by the rive gauche into Paris, at the Boulevard Mont Parnasse, where he will find omnibuses waiting to take him to any part of the city. SEVENTH DAY. BIBLIOTHEQUE IMPERIALE—PLACE LOUVOIS—BOURSE—CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS EX METIERS—ST. DENIS—ENGHIEN—MONTMORENCY AND ST. VINCENT DE PAUL. The short trip into the country of the previous day will, we trust, dispose the visitor to accompany us to-day to some of the remain¬ ing monuments and public places of Paris which he has not already seen. We will there¬ fore take our start from the Bibliotheque Impe¬ riale, in the Rue de Richelieu. This building presents to the street only a large unsightly wall, with blank windows; but on entering the gateway, the visitor finds himself in a vast court, five hundred and forty feet long, in the centre of which is a statue of Charles IX. During the regency of the Duke of Orleans, the royal library proving inadequate for the number of volumes which had accumu¬ lated in it, the books were transferred to the present building, a mansion that formerly belonged to the Cardinal Mazarin. This library had been formed at an early period, and gradually augmented by successive monarchs, who collected valuable books and manu¬ scripts from different parts of the world. In the reign of Henry II., a decree was issued that a copy of every book printed within the jurisdiction of the king’s censor should be placed in it. Its value was also considerably increased by the confiscation of the property of the Constable Bourbon, and a collection of medals and MSS. bequeathed to it by Catherine de Medicis. At the death of Louis XIV., it is computed that there were no less than seventy thousand volumes in the royal library. During the revolution of 1789, the number was rapidly increased, by the con¬ fiscation of all the printed volumes and MSS. belonging to the monasteries and other reli¬ gious establishments which were then sup¬ pressed. It is supposed that the Bibliotheque Imperiale now contains upwards of a million and a half of volumes, including duplicates and pamphlets. In the different salons of the library may be seen specimens of bookbinding and printing, from the earliest time of its invention. An PLACE RICHELIEU—BOURSE. 53 Apocalypse, printed from solid blocks of wood; a Bible printed by Guttenburg; and a transla¬ tion of the Ars Moriendi, printed by Caxton, are among the chief curiosities. In one of the rooms, two colossal metal globes, nearly twelve feet in diameter, made at Venice, by order of Cardinal d’Estr&es, may be seen. The other salons well worth noticing, are the Cabinets of Medals and Antiquities ; the Gallery of Ancient Sculpture , where is the Egyptian Zodiac of Dendarah, and the Salle des Ancetres , a room fitted up after the Egyptian original, and representing the ancestors of Thothmes III. There is in the building a spacious hall for reading, to which the public are admitted from ten to three, every day except Sundays and fete days, without any order or impedi¬ ment. To the other parts of the library, visitors are only admitted on Tuesdays and Fridays, from ten to three o’clock. The open space in front of the Bibliotheque Imperiale is the Place Louvois , where for¬ merly stood the French opera house. It was at the entrance of this theatre that the duke de Berri was assassinated in 1820, and the event made such an impression on the king, that he ordered the building to be demolished, and another erected elsewhere. The Theatre Lyrique was accordingly transferred to the spot behind the Boulevard des Italiens, where the present spacious establishment was erected in the short space of a year. In the centre of the Place , an elegant fountain has been erected. The principal figures represent the four prin¬ cipal rivers of France. The design is by the late M. Visconti. At No. 9, Rue de Grammont, is the Hotel of the French Jockey Club, consisting of 300 members. Matches are announced in Galig- nani's Messenger. A little further on, towards the boulevards, and turning to the right is the Bourse, one of the finest pieces of archi¬ tecture in Paris. It occupies the space once occupied by the convent of the Daughters o f St. Thomas , and was commenced in 1808, after the designs of Brongniard, the architect. It was not finished until 1826. It consists of a parallelogram two hundred and twelve feet long, by one hundred and twenty-six feet wide. The whole is surrounded by a gallery supported by sixty-six Corinthian columns, beneath which the merchants walk and discuss their business. A fine flight of steps, running the whole length of the front of the building, gives it a majestic appearance. At each corner of the building is placed a statue emblematic of Commerce, Consular Justice, Industry, and Agriculture. A fee is now de¬ manded from all persons (not subscribers) who enter the Bourse during business hours, from 12 to 3. The interior consists of a vast hall, one hundred and sixteen feet long, by seventy-six feet wide, capable of containing two thousand persons. The ceiling is divided into compart¬ ments, and embellished with fresco paintings by Abel de Pujol and Meynier, having the effect of bas-reliefs. To the right we see the Union of the Arts and Commerce giving prosperity to the State ; on the left, France re¬ ceiving the products of the four quarters o the world; in front, Paris delivering the Keys to the Genius of Commerce , and inviting Commer¬ cial Justice to enter her gates. A library, called the Bibliothfeque du Commerce, principally containing works on commercial subjects, is in connection with the Bourse, and may be seen any day from twelve to four. The hall is always open. Opposite to the Bourse is the Theatre du Vaudeville , established in 1827. It is capable of containing one thousand three hundred persons. Light dialogues and comedies, re¬ lieved by singing, characterise the performances at this theatre. The prices range from one 51 CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS—ST. DENIS. franc up to six francs. Performances com¬ mence at half-past six. The next object of interest we will visit is the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. It will therefore be necessary to proceed on to the Boulevards by the Rue Vivienne, which runs in front of the Bourse, and pass down by the Boulevards Poissonniere, Bonne Nouvelle, and St. Denis, to the Rue St. Martin. In the Rue St. Martin, before arriving at our destina¬ tion, we shall observe on our left the Fontaine St. Martin , a curious fountain, built against a round and spired tower, which once formed part of the outer walls of the abbey of St. Martin des Champs. A few steps more will take us to the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. —This institution was founded on the site of the above-mentioned abbey, by the Conven¬ tion, under the management of Gregory, Bishop of Blois, in 1794. The object of the institution is the improvement of machinery of every kind, by exhibiting models of the best and most recent inventions for the purpose of stimulating the creative faculty in the minds of other artists and mechanics. Previous to 1798, three repositories of machines existed in Paris, but in this year they were amalgamated into one. In 1810, a gratuitous school of arts was originated, which was re-organised and enlarged several times, until in 1838 it was finally established under its present regulations. No patent for any sort of improvement in machines, or the invention of new ones, is granted until a model of the same has been deposited in this museum; so that instruments, from the simplest tool to the most complicated piece of mechanism, are collected and classified in the salons of this building. The principal entrance to the Conservatoire is on the west, under a solid archway, richly sculptured, under the pediment of which, is inscribed, “ Conservatoire Imperude des Arts et Metiers .” The edifice consists of a part of the old abbey of St. Martin des Champs, and of the chapel belonging to it erected Tbv Pierre de Mon- tereau, the architect of the Sainte Chapelle. The style is Gothic. The museums are held in spacious saloons, communicating with lecture rooms of modern construction. The library, which contains upwards of twenty thousand volumes, on mechanical and mathematical sub¬ jects, is most elegantly fitted up. There are also fresco figures of Chemistry, Natural Philosophy, Painting, and the Plastic Art. On the ground floor , are arranged in beau¬ tiful order, weighing machines, looms, spinning machines, printing presses, screw-making machines, agricultural implements, such as ploughs, harrows, mills, crushing and winnow¬ ing machines, &c. There are also specimens of porcelain, silk, glue, &c. In the vestibule is a bas-relief of Dedalus and Icarus, by Rux- theil, and, in an adjoining out-house, Tux- ford’s locomobile engine, which gained the chief medal, at the Great Exhibition of 1851, may be seen. It was here that Ledru Rollin, Sergeant Boichot, and other plotters against the government of General Cavaignac, -were seized on the 13th June, 1849. On the upper storey are exhibited steam and fire-engines, apparatus for lighting and heat¬ ing, turning lathes, and amongst them one that belonged to Louis XIV. There are, more¬ over, rooms devoted to geometrical illustra¬ tions ; to carpentry ; to the making of com¬ passes; to specimens of stereotype; furnaces, &c. Also to instruments belonging to the science of natural philosophy or physics: as air-pumps, electric machines, &c., and to clocks and chronometers. The Museum is open to strangers on Thurs¬ days and Sundays, from ten to four. Having seen all that is to be seen here, there will be time to spend the rest of the afternoon in a short trip to the Alley of St. Denis. The town itself, which contains about lifteen thousand inhabitants, offers nothing of striking interest, if we except its antiquity— its historical associations—and its beautiful abbey, which enclose the ashes of nearly all | the kings of France, from the time of Clovis to that of Louis XVIII. It is situated about I three miles and a half from Paris, on the right bank of the Seine, and may be reached either by omnibus or railway. The railway, how- j ever, is the best, being more easily attained, and also more expeditious. The station is that of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, Place Roubaix. The trains start at all the half-hours. The first class is seventy centimes, or fourteen sous; the second, fifty-five centimes, or eleven sous. A run of a few minutes takes you to the station at St. Denis. The abbey is a few minutes’ walk from the station. The foundation of this abbey is almost coeval with the establishment of Christianity inF ranee. It is said that St. Denis, who was beheaded on Montmartre, (the Mount of Martyrs), walked, after his execution, with his head under his arm as far as this spot, angels celebrating the miracle in songs as he passed along, where he stopped and gave up the ghost, after requesting that he might be buried there. A tomb and then a chapel successively rose above his ashes. Ste. Genevieve, the patroness of Paris in 496, was the means of having the chapel enlarged, and in the following century it became the abode of a company of Benedictine Monks. Chilperic, the youngest son of Dagobert, was the first who was laid within its vaults, whilst his father was the first king who shared the same fate. In 754 Pepin le Bref was conse¬ crated in the church, and, as a mark of his gratitude, pulled down the old edifice, and commenced another on a scale of greater magnificence. This building was finished and consecrated in 775, in the reign of Charlemagne. Only the crypt of this church now remains. It was demolishedby Suger, Abbot of St. Denis, in 1140; and in the course of five years another was erected, of which the towers and porch remain. The other parts of the present building were constructed between the years 1231 and 1281, a period of half a cen¬ tury. In the erection of this edifice, not only the most celebrated architects were em¬ ployed, but the most skilful makers and Stainers of glass were sent for, even from distant coun¬ tries. During the revolution of 1789, this church, the work of so much skill and labour, the mirror of so much beauty and elegance, excited the fury of the people, for containing the tombs of the Kings of France, and suffered accordingly. The richly stained glass was broken, the lead of the roofs melted down to make bullets, the splendid monumental tombs of the kings broken open, and their ashes, which had been quietly inurned there for centuries, scattered to the winds, the Onfamme , the consecrated banner of France, tom to pieces, and a decree was even passed for the entire demolition of the abbey. In 1806 however, Napoleon, who had given back the church to the empire, ordered the restoration of the church, and especially the vault of the Bourbons, which he intended henceforth to be the resting-place of his own dynasty. The tout ensemble of this church is pure Gothic, and is one of the finest specimens of the style of the period in which it was built. The fa 9 ade, which is the part erected by Suger, is very fine, and contains three portals, consist¬ ing of retiring arches, ornamented with angels, &c. Bas-reliefs of Jesus in the Midst of the Saints, and the General Resurrection , grace the centre porch. The bas-reliefs on the north porch represent St. Denis and his companions led to execution. The form of the church is that of a regula- cross, and eonsists of a nave and two aisles. The nave is very splendid, and exhibits those light and elegant forms, which particulalry distinguished the architecture of this period. ■56 ST. DENIS-- ENGHIEN. The chapels which surround it are in admirable keeping, and produce the most striking effect, The choir is separated from the nave by a railing of beautiful workmanship. The church is also enriched by paintings of some of the first masters—that over the high altar is by Krayer, a pupil of Rubens, and represents the martyrdom of St. Denis. In the cham¬ fering of the second window is a statue of the Virgin and Child in white marble, the robes of which are interspersed with precious stones. In the Sacristy are ten paintings, illustrating the principal events connected with the history of the Abbey. Amongst them are Charles V. and Francis the First visiting the Abbey , by Gros; St. Louis receiving the Orijlamme , by Barbibr; the Preaching of St. Denis in Gaul , by Monsiau, &c. But that which will now particularly interest the spectator is the tombs of the different monarchs; and that which first claims his attention as being the most ancient, is the tomb of Dagobert, a work of the thirteenth century. It is a mausoleum with pinnacles, and a richly ornamented canopy, representing the dream of a monk, who dreamed that he saw the king carried off by a legion of devils. The tombs of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, beauti¬ fully executed in white marble, by Paolo Poncio, and of Henry II. and Catherine de Medicis, should be noticed. The tomb of the last is adorned with twelve columns of deep blue marble, and twelve of white marble. The two sovereigns are reposing on a couch. Next to this is the tomb of Francis I. and Claude, of France, erected in 1550. Bas-reliefs, representing the battles of Marignan and Cerizoles, ornament the pedestal, which sup¬ port figures of the king and queen. In one of the transepts we see a spiral column, raised to the memory of Henry III., who was murdered at St. Cloud by Jacques Clement. Opposite, is a marble pillar raised by the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, to the memory of her husband, Francis II. Two other columns, one of marble, to the memory of the Cardinal Bourbon, and the other of porphyry, to the memory of Henry IV., should be noticed. The tombs of Du Guesclin, San- cerre, and La Riviere are to be seen in the first chapel,on ascending the south steps of the choir. After the visitor has examined these monu¬ ments, he will be conducted by a guide to the tombs of the kings of the first, second, and third races. In one of the chapels are the tombs of Henri II. and Catherine de Medicis, a bust of Henry IV., Diana of France, in a kneeling posture, and Charles de Valois. An urn in front contains the heart of Francis I. Not far from this is a statue of Marie Antoinette kneeling, which is considered to be a most perfect likeness. There are also two colossal figures. This monument is intended as an expiatory souvenir of the memory of the Duke de Berri, who was assassinated in 1820. Between these two is the mausoleum of Louis XVIII. The old Abbey buildings are set apart for the Maisons Imperiales Napoleon, an institution founded by the first emperor, for the instruction of daughters, sisters, &c., of members of the Legion of Honour; and, since 1855, placed under the special protection of the Empress. None but children of officers above the rank of lieutenant are nominated to St. Denis; but at the branch establish¬ ments of St. Germains and Ecouen, those of a lower grade are admitted. Should the visitor have time, he could not do better than meet one of the trains leaving Paris, and proceed a little further on to Enghien and Montmorency , Enghien is situated about 7 miles from Paris, on the borders of a lake, since 1766 celebrated for its sulphurous waters, which, as well as the prettiness of the situation, has given rise to several thermal esta¬ blishments, and the construction of several private country villas. On the hill above Montmorency—st Montmorency —Containing upwards of two thousand inhabitants. It owes its prin¬ cipal importance to the beauty of its position, being seated high amongst the hills, and enjoying a magnificent prospect of the country below, and the woods by which it is surrounded. A multitude of country seats may be seen dotting the valley, over which the eye runs, whilst to the left the majestic form of Paris may be traced in the distance. The air here is pure and fresh, and the fruits that grow on the sides of the hills early ripen, and acquire an exquisite flavour. But Montmorency owes its principal attractions for the visitor to its Hermitage, which was formerly the residence of Jean Jacques Eousseau, and the spot where he composed his Emile and finished his Heloise. Returning to the railway station, half-an- hour’s run will bring us again into Paris and the Rue la Fayette. In this street is the fine church of St. Vincent de Paul, which is well worthy of inspection, and may be almost said to rival the Madeleine in the gorgeousness of its decorations. It is of modern construction, VINCENT DE PAUL. 57 being commenced in 1824, and finished in 1844. A graceful flight of steps, intersected by a carriage drive, leads from the Place la Fayette up to its elegant portico. Two lofty square towers containing two clocks, one for telling the hour of the day, the other the days of the month, flank the facade. The interior of the church consists of a nave and four aisles, separated by rows of Ionic pillars. Richly gilt bronze railings divide the aisles into chapels, whilst a semi-circle of fourteen columns of the same order, supporting a semi-cupola, enclose the choir. Over the altar is a has-relie*, of the Last Supper. The church contains fine specimens of stained glass, and the windows where St. Vincent de Paul is represented, sur¬ rounded by the Sisters of Charity, are remark- ably beautiful. A splendid organ surmounts the southern portal. . The visitor may descend to the Boulevards, either by taking the Rue Hauteville, which is’ opposite the church, or by the Rue du Fau¬ bourg Poissoni&re, which is at the end of the Rue la Fayette. EIGHTH DAY. LE TEMPLE—ARCHIVES IMPERIALES—IMPRIMIERIE IMPERIALS—PLACE DES VOSGES—BAS- TILLE PERE LA CHAISE—PLACE DU TRONE—VINCENNES. As w e visited yesterday some of the most in¬ teresting places in the northern arrondissement of Paris, so to-day we will visit some of those lying eastward, even as far as Pere la Chaise and Vincennes. But, before we leave the town we will go to some of those places which are most remarkable for their historical asso¬ ciations or peculiar attractions, as they lie in our route. It will therefore be best to hasten on as far as the Boulevard du Temple, when G descending the street of that name, we shall see the market and the ruins of the palace of that name. The Temple , as its name implies, formerly belonged to the order of the Knights Templar, who possessed extensive domains in this quarter of the city. All that exists of it at present is the Palais du Prior, which, in 1814 was converted into a convent, and appropriated to the Dames Benedictines de l’Adoration du 58 LE TEMPLE—ARCHIVES IMPERIAL!!. Saint Sacrament, under the direction of Ma¬ dame la Princesse de Conde, formerly abbess of Remiremont. The fa£ade fronting the court of the Temple is composed of eight Ionic columns, above which are placed allegorical figures of Justice, by Dumont; Hope, by Luseur; Abundance, by Foucon; and Prudence, by Boichot. The portico is composed of six Doric pillars. The facade fronting the street is adorned by two statues representing the Marne and the Seine. There stood formerly in the Temple a high quadrangular tower, 150 feet in length, which wasbuiltin 1222, orperhaps earlier, and flanked by smaller towers. This was the donjon or fortress of the knights, and sometimes it was even inhabited by the kings of France. During the first revolution it became the prison of the unfortunate Louis XVI. Here also were confined Sir Sidney Smith, Pichegru, Moreau, and Toussaint l’Ouverture. It was demolished, however, in 1810, and no vestige of it remains. In what was anciently the grand enclosure of the Temple has been established a market, where old clothes, furniture, &c. are sold. It is worth entering, for though there is no danger of being lost amongst its labyrinths of narrow alleys, there is sufficient to afford amusement in looking at its quaint shambles and shops. Not far from this, in the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, stands the Cirque Napo¬ leon. built in 1852. The prices for the latter are 1 and 2 francs; and performances begin at eight. Proceeding down the Rue du Temple until we arrive at the Rue de Bragu, which is on the left of us, we shall have at the further end of the street the Archives Imperiales, the principal en¬ trance of which is from the Rue Paradise. Until 1697 this property belonged to the Dukes of Guise, but in that year it was purchased by Francois de Rohan, Prince de Soubise, who, in 1706, had the place rebuilt after designs by Lemaire, and gave it the name of Hotel de Soubise. The principal entrance is adorned by Corinthian columns, trophies, the arms of Rohan and Soubise. and some fine sculptures by Coustou. The vestibule and staircase are painted by Brunetti. At the period when this fine edifice was erected, this quarter was the fashionable part of Paris; and this, as well as several other mansions in the neighbourhood, attest the splendour of the nobles of the early part of the eighteenth century. This splendour, however, has been greatly dimmed by the uses to which these hotels have been put, and, in the present instance, it is not very easy, amidst the masses and heaps of papers that fill every part of it, to realise altogether the stories of its former sumptuousness. Before 1789 the national documents were scattered about amongst various public offices and religious establishments; but in 1798, by a decree of the Convention, they were collected together and placed in the palace of the Tuil- leries, where they were separated into two classes, the Archives Judiciaires and the Ar¬ chives Lomaniales , under the direction of the antiquarian Camus. The latter were, in 1798 transferred by order of Napoleon to the Palais Bourbon, from whence they were subsequently transferred to the Hotel de Soubise. These archives are divided into six sections, viz.: the ancient Tresor des Charles , or collection of titles and charters from the twelfth century down to the first revolution; eighty volumes of manuscript, containing different acts passed from the time of Philip Augustus to that of Louis XVI.; of an infinitude of documents, belonging either to Paris or the provinces; of a topographical collection, and an excellent library of 14,000 volumes relating to the his¬ tory of France, as well as a variety of curi¬ osities and souvenirs, illustrative of the pro¬ gress of civilisation in France. 59 IjMPEIjvterie I3IPERTAEE—PLACE DES VOSGES. The public is admitted every day from 9 till 3, to visit the establishment, but a written order is required from the Minister of the In¬ terior to use the manuscripts. Close by the Archives Imperiales is the Imprimerie Imperiale , where all the government papers, and papers referring to state matters, are printed. The entrance to it is in the Rue Vielle du Temple. This building, which pos¬ sesses no great architectural beauty, was formerly called the Palais Cardinal, because it belonged to the Cardinal Rohan, whose in¬ triguing spirit made him so conspicuous a figure during the reigns of Louis XV. and XVI. The national printing office was established first at the Louvre by Francois I., but in 1793 it was transferred to the Hotel de Thoulouse, since the Bank of France, and from thence, in 1809, to the place it now occupies. This establishment, as we have said, is principally devoted to the printing of the acts of government and of the legislature. It is one of the most complete in the world, and contains several steam presses, as well as a great number of hand presses. It possesses also fifty-six founts of letters, comprising all the known languages of the nations of Asia, and even the Assyrian cuneiform characters. The kings, queens, and knaves, as well as the ace of clubs, in a pack of cards, are printed here, this being a government monopoly, but the rest of the pack are printed by the card manufacturers themselves. The weight of type in use at this establishment amounts to 7,142 cwt. Besides the printing department, the various operations of binding are done here. "When Pius VIT. visited the office, the Lord’s Praverin 150 different languages was presented to him, and before he left, the same, bound up in a splendid volume, was placed in his hands. Thepublic is admitted to view the Imprimierie Imperiale from 1 to 3 on Thursdays, but this must be under an order of M. le Directeur de lTmprimierie Imperiale. At the corner of the Rue Franc Bourgeois may be seen an elegant turret, near which the Duke of Orleans was murdered in 1407, by the Duke of Burgundy. This murder acquired a greater decree of importance from the long and bloody feuds which it gave rise to, and which disturbed France for several years, and finally led to the capture of Paris by the English. Pursuing the Rues Franc Bourgeois and Neuve St. Catherine, we shall arrive on the Place des Vosges, or, as it is sometimes called, the Place Roy ale. This place, surrounded with buildings of a uniform character, con¬ taining galleries of arcades, was built by Henry IV., on the place of the ancient Palais des Tournelles, or Palace of Turrets, so called from the numerous turrets that decorated it. This famous palace was occupied by Louis XII. and Francis I., but was destroyed in 1565 by order of Catherine de Medicis, in consequence of her husband, Henry II., having been killed whilst tilting with the Count of Montgomery in a tournament held in the great couri. The present houses were commenced in 1602. The part that is separated by an iron railing from the street is planted with trees, and adorned with four fine fountains, encircled by prettily arranged flower gardens. In 1639 a bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIII. was erected here by the Cardinal Richelieu, but this, like that of Henry IV. on the Pent Neuf, was destroyed in 1792. During the empire a splendid foun¬ tain occupied its site, but, in 1829, the present statue in white marble was placed there. The Place des Vosges derives its name from the circumstance that the government, during the first revolution, to stimulate the payment of taxes tliroughout the country, decreed that that Department which first paid up its assess¬ ments should be honoured by having its name given to one of the public places of Paris. The Department of the Vosges won that honour, and the Place Royale was changed into the Place des Vosges. BASTILLE—PEKE LA CHAISE. 60 During the revolution of 1848, this place was the scene of several severe conflicts between the troops and the insurgents. The latter, however, gained the day, and a battalion of the line was forced to lay down its arms. This battalion was afterwards disbanded by order of General Lamoriciere, but a young lieutenant, of the name of Mahler, rather than deliver up his sword, allowed himself to be killed. A neighbouring street received the name of this young hero, to commemorate the action. Passing out on the south side by the Rue des Vosges, we enter the eastern end of the Rue St. Antoine, celebrated in every revolution, and see on the left the Place de la Bastille and the Column of July. On this spot stood for¬ merly the Bastille, the grounds of which ran back as far as the river. On the 14th of July, 1789, the old fortress of the Bastille was taken by the people, and in the following year entirely demolished, when part of its materials were carried off, to assist in the construction of the Pont de la Concorde. Several propositions were put forward for embellishing the vacant space after the destruction of the building, but little was done, until Napoleon ordered the foundations of an enormous fountain to be laid. The entire design, however, was never com¬ pleted. Nothing further was executed until 1831, when it was agreed to erect a monument to the memory of those who had fallen during the Three Days, and the present column was begun. It is erected on an archway built over the canal St. Martin, and rests upon a base¬ ment of white marble, supported by blocks of granite. The column itself is of bronze, and of the Composite order. It is 154 feet high and 12 in diameter. The weight of the metal employed amounts to 1,458 cwt.; the whole cost of erection to 48,000?. Upon the shaft are inscribed the names of 615 of these, who fell in the memorable conflict of July. Over the capital is a gilt globe, surmounted by a figure, also gilt, of the Genius of Liberty. He is represented standing with one foot on the globe, whilst his wings are outspread, as if ready for flight. The statue is by Dumont, the medallions on the basement by Marboeuf. During the sanguinary days of June, 1848, the Place de la Bastille was the theatre of some of the most desperate struggles between the in¬ surgents and the soldiers. At this end of the Rue St. Antoine the largest barricade was thrown up, and in attacking it, it was, that General Negrier was killed. It was at this barricade also that the Archbishop of Paris, who had come on his errand of peace, was struck down by a stray shot. The houses on either side of the Place suffered greatly on the occasion, and were dreadfully riddled with balls. One of them, the Belle Fermiere , which stood alone at the entrance of the Rue de la Roquette, was reduced to ashes by cannon balls and howitzers. Taking an omnibus from the Place de la Bastille for the Barriere du Mont Louis, we shall arrive opposite the entrance of Pere la Chaise, or the Cemetery of the East, so called from its being laid out on a piece oFground where formerly stood the house of P&re la Chaise, the confessor of Louis XIV., who is notorious as having persuaded that monarch to revoke the Edict of Nantes. Before his time, however, this spot was called Champs I'Eveque, because it belonged to the Bishop of Paris. It afterwards became the property of a wealthy grocer, who built a magnificent mansion on the hill, which was afterwards given to the Jesuits of the Rue St. Antoine, in whose possession it continued until the reign of Louis XIV. It then received the name of Mont Louis, and Pere la Chaise was made superintendent of the institution. It was subsequently purchased and repurchased, passing through several hands, until M. Fio- chot, prefect of the Seine, bought it for the purpose of converting it into a cemetery, which PERE LA CHAISE—BARRIERE DU TRONE. 61 was accordingly effected. In 1804 the ground was consecrated, and on the 21st of May of that year the first grave made in it. It then con¬ tained 42 acres, but it has since been so con¬ siderably augmented that it covers upwards of 150 acres. The hill on which Pkre la Chaise has been formed commands a fine view of Paris and the country beyond, and beifigtastHy arranged and laid out, has become a place of universal attraction. The tombs and monumental chapels possess, many of them, great beauty, and architectural elegance. The principal to be seen are the tombs of Heloise and Abelard , the Princess Demidoff, Casimir Perier, Mas- sena , Ney, Lavalette , La Place , La Fontaine , Moliere , Boileau , &c., although the Cemetery is said to contain already 50,000 funereal monuments. The tomb of Heloise did Abelard lies to the right on entering. It consists of a rectangular chapel, built of materials brought from the Abbey of the Holy Ghost, which Abelard founded in the twelfth century, and of which Heloise was abbess. The length of it is four¬ teen feet, the breadth eleven, and the height twenty-four. Fourteen columns, with rich foliaged capitals, support trifoliate arches, sur¬ mounted by cornices wrought in flowers. The whole is Gothic. In the chapel is the original tomb built for Abelard by Pierre le Venerable. The monument to Casimir Perier is erected on a piece of ground given gratuitously by the city, as a mark of respect for their illustrious citizen, and consists of an excellent statue of that statesman placed on a high and profusely decorated pedestal. The tomb of the Princess Demidoff is a beautiful structure of white marble, elegantly ornamented, and adorned with ten Corinthian pillars, which support the entableture. A pyramid of white marble, twenty-one feet high, and a bas-relief portrait of the marshal, point out the resting-place of Massena , and a little further on is an iron railing, which encloses the remains of his companion-in-arms, Marshal Ney. No other sign indicates the spot. Some passing hand has rudely traced the words, sta viator , heroem calcas , on the railing. It would be impossible to enumerate or point out in these pages the various objects of inte¬ rest, historical, &c., to be seen in this cemetery. A guide may be had for a small gratuity. In returning homeward, the visitor passes the Prison des Jeunes Detenus (House of Detention for Young Criminals), and the new Bicetre , on opposite sides of the way, in the Rue de la Roquette. The latter is designed for convicts; and executions take place in front of it. Not far from this is the Abattoir Popincourt, or Menilmontant, one of the six or seven large public slaughter-houses with which Paris is supplied. On proceeding in another direction from Pere-la-Chaise, you may go to the Barriere du Trone and the Chateau de Vincennes. The Barriere constitutes the eastern entrance of Paris, as the Barriere de l’Etoile forms the western entrance. Two handsome Doric columns, nearly two hundred feet high, stand on either side of the gateway, and form a prominent object from any part of Paris. They were commenced in 1788, but remained unfinished until 1847. On the sum¬ mits of these pillars, two statues, oneo i Philippe le Bel , by Dumont, and the other of St. Louis, by Etex, have been raised. The Barrieer derives its name from the fact that, in the 4ugust of 1660, a throne was placed there, on which Louis XV. sat whilst he received the homage of the Parisians. Winding stair¬ cases lead to the galleries at the top of the shafts, from which a good view may be had. About three quarters of a mile down the avenue is the Chateau de Vincennes, a fine old feudal fortress, which is well worth the effort of a v tsit. It owes its origin to Philip Augustus, 62 CHATEAU DE VINCENNES ■who surrounded the wood of Vincennes with thick walls, and built at this extremity a hunting seat. Louis IX. often visited this manor, and, at the foot of an oak close by, used to administer justice to those who brought complaints to him. Philip the Bold enlarged the forest by taking m several estates, and defended it by new enclosures. In 1837, however, Philippe de Valois ordered the hunting-seat to be destroyed, and the donjon, or high tower, iioav standing, to be erected. Charles V., who frequently made it his place of residence, built the Sainte Cha- pelle within its walls; Louis XI., ever sus¬ picious, jealous, and cruel, turned it into a state prison, where he could delight himself b}' tormenting his victims, with the additional pleasure of the assurance that they could not easily escape from his hands. From this time till the reign of Charles IX., who came to die there, terror stricken with remorse for the massacre of St. Bartholomew’s Day, it was little frequented by the kings. Marie de Medicis ordered considerable embellishments to be made there, and her son, Louis XIII., continued new constructions at the southern extremity, which, however, were not finished until the reign of Louis XIV. The chateau may be considered as a specimen of the means of defence during the middle ages, as it is constructed on the best principles then known. Unfortunately, however, the aine square towers which flanked the fortress were destroyed in 1818, to place the buildings on the more advanced principles of modern fortification, so that the only one that remains intact is the Donjon. The chateau is con¬ structed in the form of a parallelogram, of which the length is about a thousand feet, and its breadth six hundred. The donjon, is surrounded by a thick wall, and a ditch 40 feet in depth. It is flanked by four turrets, which, at each storey, forms a chamber with a fire-place in it. There are five storeys, and on the fourth an external gallery, from which a splendid view of the wood, the hills to the east of Paris, and Paris itself, may be enjoyed. The walls are 16 feet in thickness, and shew not the least sign of decay. As we have said, the Donjon early became a state-prison, and ^m that time many illus¬ trious victims have been immured within its walls. Amongst the most illustrious we may mention the Prince de Conde, whom Marie de Medicis seized and placed there, with the hope of thus prolonging her regency; the Marshal Ornano, who died there in 1621; the Duke de Vendome, who was confined here for some time; Mirabeau, a considerable part of whose unhappy existence was passed here; the Prince Polignac; and lastly, the Duke d’Enghien, whose impolitic seizure and murder will leave a lasting stain on the character of Napoleon. In the chapel is a monument, erected to the memory of the noble duke, and in the eastern foss is a cypress tree, planted on the place where he was shot. But what perhaps will interest the English visitor, especially to learn, is, that it was in this donjon that the brave and heroic Henry V., after being crowned King of France, died in 1420, and where, in 1431, his unfortunate son resided until 1434. The chateau is now one of the principal arsenals of France, and in a gallery on the eastern side is a fine collection of small arms. The visitor may obtain ad¬ mission to see the chateau by applying to the M. le Ministre de la Guerre. An omnibus, leaving Vincennes, will take the visitor into the heart of Paris after he has examined the fortress; or he may return by the branch railway on the Strasbourg line. 3Bg»e&ejpes hvaH d( o E( - - • feShateau^i ' 0 -' 1 ^free Chateau : NINTH DAY, FONTAINEBLEAU. Station. —Chemin de Fer de Lyon^ B oulevard Mazas. Hours of Departure.— 6 30, 7 30 8, II 30 a.m. and 12 45, 3 45, 5~45, and 9 5 p.m. "Sear tliis station is the Nouvelle Force , French Model Prison, on the separate system, like Pentonville, and it is in this quarter, also, that 18,000 square metres of land have been bought by Government, for building houses for persons of small means, which are afterwards sold to"them by auction. One of the richest treats, either for the travail- worn Parisian or the travel-worn visitor, is an excursion to Fontainebleau; and well does it repay the little fatigue which the journeying of the day causes by the variety and beauty of the objects it presents. The town itself, prettily situated in the midst of the forest, is regularly built, with broad and fine streets, and from any point affords a striking picture of neatness and cleanliness. It contains between 8,000 and 9,000 inhabitants, and is distant about 35 miles from Paris. It possesses a public library of upwards of 30,000 volumes, and an obelisk, erected in 1786, in com¬ memoration of the birth of the children of Louis XYI. It is a subject of dispute from whence the place derives its name, but it is supposed that it comes from Fontaine Belle Fan, which was given to the spot as early as the tenth century,- on account of the abundance of good water then found there. The Chateau.— The present palace rose at different epochs, and we shall therefore not be surprised to find that it is in some respects irregular and heterogeneous. Louis VII. and Philippe Auguste were amongst the first who took up their abode here, and after them Louis IX. and his successors. The latter greatly enlarged and embellished the palace, but, by the time of Francis I., a part of the primitive building had fallen to ruin. This prince, however, who loved the site, had the chateau nearly entirely reconstructed by the first architects of the age, who were even sent for from Italy. Henry IV. is said to have laid out more than two million pounds upon it, whilst Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. made considerable additions. Their successors, down to Napoleon and Louis Philippe, have also left traces of their affection for the spot, by various improvements and decorations The chateau is full of historical associations, and some tragical events. In 1359, Francis L received the emperor, Charles V., on his visit to France, in this palace, when great fetes and rejoicings were given. In 1602 the Marshal Biron was arrested here, and sent to the Bastille to be executed. In 1657, Christine, queen of Sweden, had the Marquis of Monaldeschi assassinated in one of the apartments. Here, in 1685, Louis XIV. signed the Bevocation of the Edict of Nantes, and in the following year the great Conde died at the age of sixty-six. Nearly eighty years afterwards died also, in this chateau, the Dauphin, the only son of Louis XV., and father of Louis XVI., Louis XVIII., and Charles X., of an illness supposed to have been caused by poison. In 1808 Charles IV., of Spain, who had been kidnapped by Napoleon, was confined here 24 days, and, in 1812, Pope Pius VII. suffered the same fate here for nearly two years. In 1809 was pronounced here the declaration of divorce between the emperor and Josephine, and on the 6th of April, 1814, Napoleon, after he had signed his abdication, bade farewell to his €4 CHATEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU. favourite Garde Imperiale, in the Cour du Cheval Blanc, which, from that circumstance has received the name of Cour des Adieux. The chateau of Fontainebleau covers nearly thirteen acres of land, without including the external dependencies, the garden, or the park. It is composed of five courts, the Cour du Cheval Blanc , the Cour de la Fontaine , the Cour du Donjon , the Cour des Princes , and the Cour des Cuisines , or de Henry IV., besides several buildings in different styles. The principal entrance is by the Cour du Cheval Blanc , or des Adieux , which is 300 feet in length by 100 feet in depth. On the right rises the wing of Louis XV., a long building four stories high; to the left extends the wing of Francis I., only one story in height, formerly appropriated by the ministers of the court. At the bottom is the grand fa 9 ade, the work of the architects, Vignole and Serlio. In the centre is the cele¬ brated staircase, known as the Escalier enfer a cheval , consisting of two flights of steps, and so called because it is in the form of a horse¬ shoe. It is also called the Escalier dllonnmr^ and was built by Lemercier in the reign of Louis XIII. It was on these steps that the Emperor Napoleon stood* when he bade adieu to his faithful soldier^'in 1814; and it was in this court that, in the March of the following year, he passed in review tEe troops he was about to lead to Parispnd Waterloo. The court derives its name of du Che val Blanc from an equestrian statue in plaster, a copy of the horse of Marcus Aurelius, which was cast at Rome, and brought to this spot in 1650. Behind the principal body of the building lies the Cour de la Fon taine ? surrounded on three sides by the beautiful structures of Serlio, and containing a double staircase leading up to the Salle de Spectacle. In the middle is a basin, into which Jpur grotesque heads pour water. From this court the visitor enters into the gardens, from which he sees the beautiful pavilion of Louis XIV. The Cour du Donjon follows immediately after, and is so called from the heavy and massive donjon built by Louis IX., which stands at one extremity of the court. Forty-five columns of grey freestone, with capitals quaintly sculptured, support the ex¬ ternal balcony. The court is enclosed by a peristyle, pierced by a gateway, designed by Vignole, and surmounted by the graceful bap¬ tistery of Louis XIII., by Debrosses. Crossing the foss on the other side, we arrive at the Cour des Cuisines , a vass and regular area of buildings, constructed in 1590 by Jamin, for the offices of Henry IV. The Cours des Princes is the smallest of the courts, and abutting upon it are the apartments formerly occupied by the Queen Christine. Having given a description of the plan of the chateau, we will now enter its principal saloons, and point out whatever may be most interesting and curious for the visitor to notice. Entering then the Wing of Louis XV. from the Cour du Cheval Blanc , the visitor passes through a suite of apartments formerly occupied by the sister of Napoleon, and afterwards by the Duchess de Nemours, and arrives at the Galerie des Assiettes or des Fresgues , so called from 88 beautiful plates of Sevres porcelain in¬ serted in the walls, representing the principal objects connected with the history of Fontaine¬ bleau. It is also celebrated for the fine frescoes painted by Ambroise Dubois, which adorn its ceilings and wainscot. From this gallery a pas¬ sage leads to the Appartements de la Duchesse d'Orleans, the first salon of which was fitted up as an oratory by Pius VII., during his imprison¬ ment in the palace; a small porcelain cabinet in a room belonging to the suite represents the arrival, reception, and marriage, of the duchess with the late duke. Adj oining is the Apparte- ment cPAnne dAutriche , composed of seven rooms richly decorated. On the ceiling of one of them, the gods of Olympus are represented in relief on gilt wood. In it Charles V. slept during his visit to Francis I., in 1539. The CHATEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU. 65 grand salon is remarkable for the profusion of arabesque ornament, with which it is decorated. Passing by the Salle du Billard, we arrive at the vestibule, at the foot of the horse-shoe staircase, from which a door leads into the Chapelle de la Sainte Trinite, in which the marriage of Louis XV. and the late Duke of Orleans were celebrated. It was built after the designs of Vignole, in the reign of Francis I., on the site of the chapel erected there by St. Louis; but the decorations were not finished till the reign of Louis XIII. The fine paint¬ ings on the vault are by Freminet. The high altar is by Bourdonne. The six statues are by |J Germain Pilon; the Descent from the Cross by Jean Dubois. Galerie de Francois I. — The gallery was embellished by order of the prince, whose name it bears, in 1530, and displays the rich¬ ness of his taste. It is situated on the /first floor, at the bottom of the Cour de la Fontaine. The ceilings and wainscots are of oak and walnut, profusely sculptured and gilded. Fourteen large frescoes by Rosso and Prima- ticcio, surrounded by bas-reliefs in stucco, adorn the walls. The apartments occupied by Napoleon, and where he signed his abdica¬ tion the 5th of April, 1814, are entered from the landing-place of the chapel by a staircase. There also is kept a facsimile of the document, and the table on which it was signed. The bed-room of the. emperor is in nearly the same condition as he left it. Passing through the Salle du Consul and the Grande Chambre du Roi , the visitor is ushered into the Appartement de la Reine, consisting of four rooms facing the garden of Diana. The Chambre de la Reine is most beautifully decorated, and was succes¬ sively occupied by Marie de Medicis, Anne d’Autriche, Marie Therese, Marie Antoinette, Marie Louise, the ex-queen of the French, Marie Amelie, and the present Empress Eugenie. The visitor will now be ushered into the Gallerie de Diane, built by Henry IV., and decorated with some fine frescoes by Ambroise Dubois. It was nearly destroyed by the falL of the roof at the beginning of the present century, but in 1807 the rebuilding of it was commenced, after designs by Heurtant, and completed during the reign of Louis XVIII. The paintings on the ceilings are by Abel de Pujol and Blondel. From this gallery we pass on into the Salons de Reception , which are nine- in number, decorated with a profusion of gild¬ ing and painting. These rooms are in the donjon or keep of the chateau, and form the oldest part of the building. It will be impos¬ sible to give a detailed description of them all: the principal of them to be observed are the Salon des Tapis series, containing some fine old Flanders tapestry; the three Salons de Francis /., with a beautiful chimney-piece attributed to Benvenuto Cellini; the Chamber de Henri IV., decorated by Ambroise Dubois and Paul Bril; and the Salle de Louis XIII. r once occupied by that monarch, but since that, time greatly altered. The ceiling is one of the most beautiful specimens of the kind. Adjoining this appartement is the Salle de Spectacle , established as a theatre by Louis XV. r and capable of containing 600 spectators. It is sometimes used for concerts given by the garrison.- Returning to the Escalier du Roi, we shall enter the Appartement de Madame de Maintenon, fitted up for that celebrated personage by Louis XIV. In one of them, the Grand Cabinet , the king signed the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and accepted the crown of Spain for his grandson from the Spanish deputies, an act which caused the long and bloody war of the Succession. After this comes the Gallerie de Henry II., built by Francis I., but decorated by Henry II., with great magnificence. This gallery, which is the most splendid room in the chateau, is 120 feet long by 30 in width, and as many in height. It serves as a state ball-room. The chamfering of the windows FORET DE FONTAINEBLEAU. m Is nine feet in thickness. The walls are painted in frescoes by Primaticcio and Nicole, which were restored in 1835 by Alaux. Its beautiful 'chimney-piece is the work of the sculptor, Bondelet. This room, from the luxurious splendour of its fittings up, may be regarded as the finest in the palace. Having visited the Library , formerly the Haute, Ckapelle , we descend to the Chapelle de >St. Saturnin, between the Donjon and the gardens, which has a peculiar interest for the" 'English visitor, as having been consecrated by Thomas a Becket during his temporary exile in France. It has, however, been frequently restored and ornamented since its consecration in 1169. The subjects of the stained glass windows were proposed by the late Princess Marie, daughter of Louis Philippe. From this we pass on to the Gallerie des Colonnes , a vast salon built under the Gallerie de Henri II., and corresponding with it. It is so called from the enormous columns of stucco by which it is ■ornamented. It was here that the religious part of the ceremony of the marriage of the Duchess of Orleans, according to the Protestant ritual, took place in 1837. Passing through the Porte Doree , a gateway richly ornamented ■by Bosso and Primaticcio, we arrive at the Vestibule de St. Louis , which contains statues of the monarchs who mainly contributed to embellish or enlarge the chateau, from Louis TIL down to Henri IV., from which we enter twelve rooms called the Petits Appartements , In one of which is a painting representing the murder of Monaldeschi. An inscription under the window records the deed as having taken place near the spot. The visitor will now find himself, after quitting these apartments, in the Vestibule de la Sainte Trinite, with the Cour du •Cheval Blanc once more before him. Having made the round of the interior of the chateau, it will be expedient to lose no time in visiting the gardens. The Jardin Anglais, designed and planted by Heurtant, extends along the front of the chateau. There is also another garden laid out by Lenotre, in the old fashioned style of gardening. Across the sward winds a little stream, which takes its source at the Fontaine Belle Eau, and falls into a pond, covering an area of eight acres, to the south of the Cour de la Fontaine. Beyond this is the park , containing a great number of pleasant alleys and walks, and a magnificent cascg jje, which feeds a canal up¬ wards of a mile in length. In the waters of the garden are some fine fish, especially carp, which are kept until they become of an enor¬ mous size. But that which the visitor will probably be most anxious to see is the mag¬ nificent Foret-de-Fontainebleau. — The surest and most expeditious way is to hire a vehicle, a number of which are always ready, and to penetrate, under the guidance of the driver, into the heart of the forest. However, to those who would prefer it, there are always saddled horses at hand, and the advantage of these is, that paths may be pursued which it is impossible to follow on wheels. Whichever course the visitor adopts, expedition is neces¬ sary. The spots most frequented are the Hermitage de Franchard , where was formerly a large monastery, and near which is the Roche quipleure , the waters of which were supposed to have miraculous powers of healing; the Gorge de Franchard a wild and romantic place, con¬ sisting of a huge amphitheatre, covered with woods and rocks; the Gorge cCAppremont , more magnificent still, inasmuch as it is more extensive, and commands a fine view; the Caverne des Brigands, which is situated at the top of the gorge, and was dug about a century and a half ago by robbers, who infested the country, and made this place, then almost inaccessible, their retreat; and the Valley of the Solle near which is the Cliff of St. Ger¬ main. The view from this spot is very beau¬ tiful, and of a softer character than that on RUE ST. ANTOINE. 67 the other side of the forest. Standing at the head of the valley, the eye ranges over a fine amphitheatre, covered with oaks and beech and enclosing a plain, dotted with picturesque villages. The landscape is bounded by a long line of hills, far away beyond the hills that form this beautiful amphitheatre. At the Cliff of St. Germain , the stones are nearly all crys- talised. There are other places of great beauty to be seen, but as it would be impos¬ sible to traverse every part of afforest containing nearly fifty-five thousand acres in one day, we have pointed out those spots which the visitor may request his guide to take him to. Half¬ way between Fontainebleau and the Gorge of Appremont, is a carrefour in the wood, from which several alleys branch off. It is remark¬ able for the height of the trees that surround it. There is one oak there especially worth noticing. It rises nearly eighty feet before throwing off a branch. We will now suppose the visitor returned to Fontainebleau, where he may have an excel¬ lent repast at the Hotel de Lyon, or at the Hotel de Londres, and will only warn him that the last train leaves at 9 10 p.m. for Paris. TENTH DAY. RUE ST. ANTOINE—ST. PIERRE ET ST. PAUL—FONTAINE ST. ANTOINE — HOTEL HE SULLY— TEMPLE PROTESTANTE—ARSENAL—GRENIER DE RESERVE—PONT d’AUSTERLITZ—JARDIN DES PLANTES—HALLE AUX VINS—MANUFACTURE DES GOBELINS. We wish this day, the tenth and last that we shall have especially to direct his steps, to guide the visitor to a part of the city he has not yet visited, and to two objects of consider¬ able interest, the Jardin des Plantes , and the Manufacture des Tapisseries des Gobelins , which he has not yet seen. It will, therefore, be advisable for him to make his way to the Hotel de Yille, behind which and the Caserne Napoleone, is the Rue St. Antoine. This street, besides possessing some fine specimens of domestic architecture of the middle ages, acquires great interest, from the political events of which it has been the theatre. It is also the centre of the Protestant quarter of Paris, and contains a large number both of Lutherans and Calvinists. On the right, as he descends, the visitor will see the Lycee Charlemagne, a college estab¬ lished on the site of an old Jesuit college, which was founded in 1582, and suppressed during the first revolution. Next to this is the church of St. Paul and St. Louis , began in 1627, and finished in 1641, in which year Cardinal Richelieu consecrated it in presence of Louis XIII. and his court. It is one of the finest in Paris, and built on an elevated platform, approached by a flight of steps. The fat^ade is decorated with three orders of architecture, placed one above the other, of which, the two lowest are Corinthian,and the upper Composite. The interior is richly embellished with archi¬ tectural ornaments and sculpture, The chapel of the Virgin is entirely ornamented with marble. This church suffered greatly during the revolutionof 1789,when several of its finest decorations were destroyed; it has, however, in some measure recovered the injury it then received. Opposite the church is the Fontaine St. Antoine, consisting of a sexagonal pavi- 68 ARSENAL—PONT D’AUSTERLITZ. lion, surmounted with, a dome, and crowned by a campanile. An inscription on the south side intimates that it was erected by the pre¬ fect and town council, to give fresh water to the inhabitants. Further on, at No. 143, is the Hotel de Sully , the mansion occupied formerly by that cele¬ brated minister. It is a fine specimen of the time in which it was built, as it is still in good preservation. Proceeding further up the street, the visitor will come upon the Temple Protestante , or chapel belonging to the French Protestants, of the Calvinistic persua¬ sion. It was built formerly by Mansard, for the Dames de la Visitation, whose convent was destroyed in 1789. Service is performed here every Sunday, in French, at half-past twelve. Passing down the Rue Petit Muse, which is the first to the west of the Temple Protestante , we shall arrive at the Rue de Sully , in which is The Arsenal.—On this site, the city of Paris established a depot for artillery and munitions of war, in 1396, which afterwards became national property; but a fearful ex¬ plosion having taken place in 1563, the building was reconstructed on a larger scale. Henri IV. also had it enlarged, and added a garden, and created the office of grand-master of the artillery, which he bestowed on Sully. Louis XIV. transferred the casting of cannon to the frontiers of his kingdom, so that the only use to which the present establishment was put, was that of casting statues for the gardens of Versailles, &c. It possesses, however, a very rich library, called the Bibliotheque de VArsenal, to which the public is admitted every day (Sundays and Fete days excepted), from ten to three. It contains about two hundred thousand printed volumes, and six thousand three hundred manuscripts. The works are chiefly on his¬ tory, foreign literature, and poetry. It is especially valuable for its collection of Italian j authors. It was formerly called Bibliotheque de Paulmy, being originally formed by the Marquis de Paulmy. It was afterwards named Bibliotheque de Monsieur , having been purchased by Charles X., whilst Count of Artois, but since 1830 it has received the name of Bibliotheque de 1’Arsenal. The rooms in which Sully was accustomed to receive Henry IV. are still shewn. Apply with passport, to the director, at the bureau. Passing down the Rue Moray, we arrive at the Grenier de Reserve , a building commenced by Napoleon, in 1807. His object in con¬ structing this immense building, which is two thousand one hundred and sixty feet in length, was to have collected there a suffi¬ cient quantity of grain and flour to provide Paris for four months against the contingency of want. It was to have had five stories,, besides cellars and attics. However, only the ground floor was finished when he abdicated in 1814, and the original plan being abandoned, what had been built was roofed in, and divided into three stories. Four water chan¬ nels, for turning mills, were also cut under¬ neath the cellars. The government requires every baker to keep constantly twenty full- sized sacks of flour in this storehouse, and he can add to this any quantity he likes, on pay¬ ment of a small charge, as the building is capable of containing one hundred thousand sacks. The cellarage is sometimes used as a supplementary depot for wine. Application for admission must be made at the bureau, in the Place de VArsenal. Continuing down the Rue Crillon, towards the river, and taking the left, we arrive at The Pont d'Austerlitz — a fine stone bridge, consisting of five very fine elliptical arches, supported by piers and abutments of stone, placed on piles. It was begun in 1801, and finished in 1807, at a cost of one hundred and twenty thousand pounds. It is four hundred feet in length, and fifty-six in breadth. M11I11S3 fflMIffiS, JAR DIN DES PLANTES—HALLE AUX VINS. 69 It was undertaken by a company, who were to keep it in repair for seventy years, and receive toll during the same time. In 1848, however, the bridge was thrown open, free to foot passengers. From this bridge, looking westward, a fine view of the back of Notre Dame, the Hotel de Ville, the Pantheon, and different parts of the city may be obtained. Looking up the river, the eye follows it through Bercy, nearly to where the Seine joins the beautiful Marne. Opposite the Pont d’Austerlitz, is the principal entrance into the Jardin des Plantes. —This botanical and horticultural garden was established by Louis XIII., in 1635, at the instigation of his phy¬ sician, Guy de la Brosse, and contained then only seventy acres. Buffon, who was named superintendent of it in 1729, devoted himself to it, and enriched it by valuable additions. He collected here, from all parts, the most varied productions of nature, and established its museums, its galleries, and its hot-houses. All the dispositions of the gardens were his work. But, after him, the place languished until Bonaparte gave it a new impulse, and filled its flower-beds and museums with col¬ lections despotically brought from other coun¬ tries. These were, however, restored in 1814, and the support of the gardens has been since provided for by an annual grant of the govern¬ ment. Here may be seen nearly every known kind of flower, and shrub, and tree, native or exotic, in existence, from the smallest bush to the gigantic cedar of Lebanon, besides a variety of birds, beasts, and fishes, which represent the different species of the animal kingdom. Besides these gardens and collection of living animals, there are also museums of geology, botany, comparative anatomy, and zoology; a fine scientific library, laboratories, and an amphitheatre, where lectures upon the different branches of natural history are delivered to the students of the university or others, whose tastes may induce them to pursue either of these studies. Everything is complete for the development of that science which Buffon and Cuvier so largely contributed to. In the centre of the garden is a conical mound, on the summit of which is a pavilion, made of bronze, from which a fine view of this part of Paris, and the eastern environs may be had. All the prominent objects that from the Arc de l’Etoile were indistinct now become clearly visible; and the columns at the Barriere du Trone, the towers and wood of Vincennes, the heights of Belleville, and the landscape towards Sceaux and Fontenay-aux- Roses, may easily be distinguished. On one of the pillars of the pavilion is a sun-dial, above which is inscribed, the motto—“ Horas non numero nisi serenas. ” Half-way up the ascent, is the fine cedar brought from Lebanon by an English physician, and planted where it now stands, in 1734. The gardens are open every day, from morning till sunset, but the animals can only be seen from eleven to three. The Musee de VHistoire Naturelle, the Musee de Mineralogies and the Musee d'Anatomie , are only to be seen on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays by the public. The bureau for tickets is near the Musee d'Anatomie Comparative. To the west of the Jardin des Plantes, is the Halle-aux- Vins, an extensive market for wines, covering an area of one hundred and thirty-four thousand square yards, and dis¬ posed to receive and store two hundred thou¬ sand pieces of wine. It was commenced by order of Napoleon, in 1803, on the site of the ancient abbey of St. Victor. The front facing the quay, from which it is separated by a very fine railing, measures eight hundred yards in length. Two pavilions, placed on either side of the facade, are occupied by the administra¬ tion, and persons connected with the surveil¬ lance of the entrance and exit of wines. The interior is composed of five large masses of 70 MANUFACTURE DES GOBELINS. building, divided into streets, called after the names of different wines, as Rue de Languedoc, Rue de Bordeaux, Rue de Bourgogne, &c. These buildings serve for magazines, cellars, and halls. There are upwards of fifty maga- sins. Along the quay-side, are arranged, small offices, which form the counting-houses of the merchants. It is estimated that the Halle may contain four hundred and fifty- thousand casks, and sometimes as many as one thousand five hundred casks enter in one day. Behind is a warehouse for spirits. The public is admitted at all hours in the day. One of the most interesting objects to be seen of its kind in Paris, and which we have left unavoidably to the last, is the Manufacture des Tapisseries des Gobelins, No. 270, Rue MoufFetard, the reputation of which has long been universal. The best way to reach it from the gardens, is by taking the Rues Geoffry and Censier, the first of which runs at the back of the gardens. This manufactory was originated by John Gobelin, in 1450, who established here a cele¬ brated dyeing factory. Afterwards, his suc¬ cessors brought from Flanders the art of making tapestry—and in 1655, M. Gluck introduced the art of dyeing wool and cloths of a scarlet colour. Under Louis XIV. it received still greater development—the estab¬ lishment became a royal manufactory , and the direction of it was given by the great Colbert to the celebrated painter Lebrun: from that | time it has obtained a very high degree of perfection. Lately the Savonnerie , so re¬ nowned for the richness and variety of its products in carpets, and originally founded by Catherine de Medicis, has formed part of the establishment. On entering, the visitor is introduced into rooms filled with specimens of tapestry, and then into the rooms, six in number, where the looms are fixed. There are altogether twenty- five looms. It is scarcely possible to con¬ ceive, how, hy the simple process of weaving, the effects of painting, with all its purity and fineness of colouring, may be reproduced, with almost perfect exactness. The carpets take sometimes from five to ten years in making, and cost from one thousand four hundred, to six thousand pounds. The largest carpet ever made, measured one thousand three hun¬ dred feet, and consisted of sixty-two pieces. Not more than six hundred and twenty work¬ men are employed in this manufactory, who earn from sixty to one hundred pounds a-year. When they are disabled by age or infirmities, they are allowed to retire on a pension of from twenty-four to forty pounds a year. Visitors are admitted on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from two to four. An omnibus will always be found outside the manufactory, which, by correspondence, will take the visitor to any part of Paris he may wish. ASNIERES—BELLEVILLE—ENGHIEN—ST. GERMAIN. 71 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. To give a greater efficiency to this work, we subjoin a few of those spots in the neighbour— hood of Paris, which, if the stranger have time, will amply repay a visit. To each belongs- its peculiar feature of attraction. Asnieres. —This place is situated on the left bank of the Seine, about five miles from Paris, and contains about 1200 inhabitants. It is noted for the beauty of its position, and the elegance of its houses, which become in summer the residences of wealthy Parisians. The park of Asnieres is celebrated for its gay amusements, fireworks, illuminations, concerts and balls, taking place there Sundays and fete-days. It is at Asnieres also that the boat-racing, a sport which is becoming much in vogue with the French people, takes place. It is reached by the Chemin-de-fer de St. Germain, Place du Havre. Belleville. —This place, situated on the hills to the north-east of Paris, is much frequented on Sundays. From it may be obtained a fine view of the city. It contains about 24,925 inhabitants, and lies just outside the barrier-walls. The omnibuses Les Citadines and Les Excel- lentes will take you there. Bougival, pleasantly situated on a hill that rises above the Seine. It is one of the most romantic spots in the neighbourhood of Paris. The road leading from Bougival to Louvecienne is very picturesque, and on either side may he seen numerous country seats, amongst them the Chateau of Madame Du- barry, the Chateau of the Count Hocquart, and the Chateau de la Jonctiou. It is about 7 miles from Paris, and contains about 1,40 (V inhabitants. Route—Chemin-de-Fer de St- Germain. Bnghien —About the same distance from. Paris as Bougival, but on the great northern. road. It is situated on the borders of a lake,, whose mineral waters have long been cele¬ brated. This lake is very beautiful, and' surrounded with cottages romantically built. The afternoon of a fine day spent on its bosom, and in the bowers which are erected around it, will be found very agreeable. Route— Chemin-de-Fer duNord. St. Germain. —It would be a great omis¬ sion on the part of any person who has the time, to fail in visiting this town, so celebrated as it is for its historical associations, and the. beauty of the scenery of which it commands a. view. Before the eleventh century there was no other habitation in the vast forest that- covered this spot than a small chapel, dedi¬ cated to St. Germain. This was enlarged into a monastery, and in the 12th century,, Louis Le Gros erected a chateau near it. This chateau was destroyed by the English, in 1346. It was rebuilt, but several times plundered by the English and Armagnacs, after which, it was left neglected until Francis 1st., taking a fancy to the spot, repaired the chateau, and celebrated his marriage there. Henry II., however, laid the foundation of a 72 JOINVILLE—MONTMARTRE—NEUILLY. new chateau, to which Charles IX. and his Court retired from the religious disturbances of the city. Henry IY. and Marie de Medicis took up their residences in the new building, whilst the old was repaired and fitted up, by the king’s orders, for the beautiful Gabrielle d’Astrees. The magnificent Terrace, from whence so extensive a prospect may be obtained, was laid out during this reign. Louis XIII. used St. Germain as his favourite residence, as did, likewise, Louis XIV., until the Chateau of Versailles was ready for his reception. After this, the Palace found an occupant in the dethroned King James II., to whom it was allotted by his generous friend. During the revolution of 1789 it was divided into the residences of private individuals, and during the empire became a cavalry bar¬ rack; after the restoration it was occupied by a company of the life-guards, but is now used as a military prison. The terrace, which is everywhere celebrated for the magnificence of its view, is between two and three miles long, and looks down upon the winding Seine. Behind this com¬ mences the noble forest of St. Germain. The only remains of the Chateau Neuf, as it is called, is a tower in which Louis XIV. was born, now converted into a restaurant, under the name of the Pavilion of Henry IV. In the church on the Place de Chateau , is a monument erected by the late King George IV., to the memory of James II. It stands in a small chapel near the doorway, to the right on entering. St. Germain is about 15 miles from Paris, with a population of about 13,000. A part of the railway from Pecq to St. Germain is on the atmospheric principle. Station, Place du Havre. Joinville.— Situated about six miles from P aris, and commanding a fine view of the Marne and the country beyond it. The road to it lies through Vincennes and the woods of Vincennes and Joinville. Omnibuses from * the Place de la Bastille may be found to take the visitor there. Montmartre. —Though lying outside the barrier-wall, Montmartre may almost be said to be a part of Paris. It derives its name of Montmartre, or Mons Martyrum, from the execution of St. Denis and his companions, which took place here. Its great height above the city makes it a favourable point from which to obtain a coup d’oeil of the streets and public buildings of Paris. In a valley to the west of the hill is situated the cemetery of Montmartre, which may rival in the beauty of its position the cemetery of Pere la Chaise. It contains, too, the remains of several cele¬ brated personages. Nemlly.—About a mile and a half beyond the Barriere de l’Etoile stands the village of Neuilly, on the left bank of the Seine. It is elegantly built, and of rather modern date. From the bridge that here crosses the river, a fine view may be had of the islands with which it is sown, and the country seats that line its banks. The principal object, however, to be seen is the Chateau de Keuilly, situated in a beautiful park, the residence of the late royal family. The palace was built in the reign of Louis XV., when, and until the revo¬ lution, it belonged to private individuals. After that time it passed to M. Talleyrand; then to the Prince Murat and the Princess Borghese; and finally to Louis Philippe and his family. In February, 1848, this beautiful palace was nearly destroyed by a body of revolutionists, who left Paris, and breaking into it, gave themselves up to all kinds of scenes of destruction, riot, and drunkenness. At a short distance from the Arc de I’Etoile, on the road to Neuilly, near the Porte Maillot, is the chapel erected by the late King of the French to the Duke of Orleans, not far from the spot where that unfortunate prince was accidentally killed. The interior is well worth examination. Amongst the group of statuary ST. OUEN-RUEIL—SCEAUX. 73 are two figures, beautifully executed in marble, by Marie, the lamented sister of tbe duke. St. Ouen, situated 5§ miles from Paris on tbe right bank of the Seine, which is spanned by a new bridge, erected in 1857. It was here that King Dagobert is supposed to have fixed his residence. In 1482 Louis XI. annexed the royal property here to the Abbey of St. Denis, that its monks might pray for a pro¬ longation of his life. It should be observed that the superstitious monarch died the next day. The chateau, from this time, passed through various hands, until it became the residence of Madame de Pompadour, who ex¬ hausted considerable sums in embellishing it. In 1814 Louis XVIII. sojourned here the evening before his entry into Paris, and signed the declaration called the Declaration of St. Ouen. An ice-house, with large storehouses for corn, is established in this town. Close by is another chateau, formerly the property of M. Keeker, where his daughter, the celebrated Madame de Stael, was born. Rueil.— About 10 miles from Paris, with a population of 7,000. It is situated at the foot of a beautiful hill, covered with vines and fruit trees. It was here that Cardinal Richelieu had his residence during the stor¬ miest period of his political career. Near to Rueil is the beautiful palace of Malmaison. so closely and dearly associated with the name of the beautiful Josephine. In the church of this village (where a beautiful monument is erected to her memory) the empress lies buried. Sceaux —The town of Sceaux now offers little of the attractions it did formerly. A chateau was built here by the celebrated Colbert, embellished with sculptures by Pujet and Girardon, and surrounded by a garden laid out by Lenotre. This chateau was pur¬ chased in 1700 by the Duke du Maine, who enlarged and adorned it at an immense cost. As he and his son were men of enlightenment and taste, this chateau became the resort of the most distinguished literary men of the age, as well as of the most fashionable society of Paris. The revolution of 1798 put an end, however, to the splendour and magnificence of this establishment, the building was des¬ troyed, and the grounds suffered to run to waste. Recently, however, the Maire of the place has purchased the park for the use of the inhabitants, and here several fetes and festivals are held. The railway from Paris to Sceaux is an experimental one. The object is to ascertain in how small a curve, and up how steep an ascent, a train may be conducted. The visitor will, therefore, oe surprised to find himself winding up a steep hill, and turning very sharp angles, but he need be under no apprehension, as though the result has not been satisfactory for general purposes, the transit has been proved to be safe. About a mile beyond Sceaux is a restaurant situated in a wood, called Robinson. To this place vast numbers of the Parisians flock. The principal attraction is a chesnut tree, sufficiently large to hold two pavilions, and upwards of 15 or 16 persons. From these pavilions, in which the visitor may dine, an extensive view of Paris and the intervening country may be had. Throughout the gardens numerous bowers and s eats are distributed. Route. Chemin-de-Fer dfi Sceaux, Barviere d’Enfer. U ADDRESSES OF EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES—FORTIFICATIONS. 74 ADDRESSES OF EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES IN PARIS. Embassies. England ,Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 39. Austria, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain, 87. Baden, Rue Joubert, 17. Bavaria, Rue d’Aguesseau, 15. Belgium, Rue de la Pe'piniere, 97. Bolivia, Rue Laffitte, 31. Brazil, Rue de la Pepiniere, 106. Central America or Guatemala, Rue de Pro¬ vence, 21. Cliili, Rue de 1’Universite, 69. Denmark, Rue de la Pepiniere, 88. Free Towns, Rue Trudon, 6. Greece, Rue de Chateaubriand. Hanover, Avenue Gabriel, 46. Hesse-Darmstadt, Grenelle, Rue de St. Ger¬ main, 112. Hesse Electoral, Rue Jean Goujon, 16. Holland, Rue du Cirque, 2 Mecldenhurg-Sclnoerin, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 35. Mecklenburg-Strelitz and Saxe-Weimar, Rue Coumartin, 7. Mexico, Rue Castiglione, 12. . Nassau, Rue du Cirque, 12. Parma, Quai d'Orsay, 25. Portugal, Rue d’Astorog, 12. Prussia, Rue de Lille, 78. Russia , Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 33. Roman States, Nunciature Rue de l’Univer- site, 69 Sardinia, Rue St. Dominique, St. Germain, 133. Saxe Weimar, Faubourg St. Honore, 170. Saxony, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 179. Sweden, Rue d’Asjou St. Honore, 74. Spain, Quai d’Orsay, 25. Switzerland, Rue d’Aumale, 9. Tuscany , Rue Caumartiu, 3. Turkey, Rue de Grenelle, St. Germain, 116. Two Sicilies , Faubourg St. Honore, 47. United States, Rue Beagon, 13. Wvrtemberg, Rue Tronchet, 2. Consulates. England, Rue du Faubourg St. Honors, 39. Argentine Confederation, Rue St. Georges,'35 Austria, Rue Laffitte, 19. Brazil, Rue Castellane, 10. Chili, Rue St. Lazare, 31. Denmark, Rue de Trevise, 29. Ecuador (Republic of), Rue du Sentier, 12. Greece, Rue Basse-du-Rempart, 30. Hanse Towns, Rue de Meriars, 4. Holstein-Oldenburg, Rue St. Georges, 13. Mexico, Rue Neuve St. Augustin, 50 Netherlands, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore. Peru, Rue St. Lazare, 31. Persia, Rue St. Honore, 371. Portugal, Rue Blanche, 46. Russia, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 33. Sweden and Norway, Rue Laffitte, 29. Spain, Rue Tronchet, 27. Turkey, Rue de la Chaussee-d’Antin, 68. United States, Boulevard des Italiens, 27. Venezuela (Republic of), Rue du Faubourg- Poissonniere, 32. FORTIFICATIONS. Since the Revolution ot 1789, the project of building fortifications round Paris has been several times entertained. After the disasters of 1815, Napoleon expressed at St. Helena bitter regret at the Parisians having been forced to open their gates to the allied armies, for want of sufficient protection, and he repeated the regret in the Memorial de Sainte-Helene . At length, after long parliamentary debates? the fortifications were voted in 1841. The building of them cost 140,000,000 fr. They form a gigantic undertaking; and consist: 1. Of an enceinte continue of about 38 kilome¬ tres in length, surmounted with bastions, and terraces, and a wall 10 metres thick; 2. Of seventeen detached forts with several fosses. The whole system is united by strategic roads, and it includes all the new communes annexed since 1860, as Batignolles, La VillettQ' Bercy, &c. POST OFFICE—ENGLISH CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 75 The following is a list of the detached forts: Charenton, Nogent, Rosny, Noisy, Romain- ville, Aubervilliers, Est Couronne du Nord, la Briche, Mont Valerien, Yanvres, Issy, Montrouge, Bicetre, Ivry, Stains, Rouvray. The fort of Yincennes has also been strengthened. In its neighbourhood, are the new Military Hospital, opened in 1858; and a chapel, lately erected by the Empress, in ful¬ filment of a vow. The complete circle of fortifications round Paris requires upwards of 2,800 mortars, guns, &c., to defend it. GENERAL POST OFFICE. Rue J. J. Rousseau, 9. In Paris there are seven deliveries of letters on week days and five on Sundays. There are two mails from England daily; letters by the earlier arrival (comprising London letters chiefly) before twelve. As in England, the postage is paid by affixing stamps, which can be obtained at the post-offices, at tobacconists’, and at most stationers’ shops; the stamps are of the value of 5c., 10c., 20c., 40c., and 80c. Those at 5c f are used for franking newspapers for England, France, or elsewhere. The postage of a single paid letter to England is 40c. (4d.), but if un¬ paid, the person receiving it will have to pay 8d. Letters may be posted for England up to 6 o’clock at the General Post-office, for the night’s mail, at the receiving-houses till 5 only, at the district offices with their branches till 5 30 p.m. Bureau A. Rue Saint Honore, 12. — R. Boulev. Beaumarchais, — C. Rue du Grand-Chantier, — D. Rue de l’Ecbiqu'er, 26. — E. Rue de Seze, 2S. — F. Rue de Beaune, 8. — G. Rue de S»ine. — ffl. Rue des Fosses-Saiut Victor, 35 Bureau J. Place de la Bourse, — K. Rue de Rivoli, 10 bis. — tj. Au Luxembourg, Rue de Vaugirard,! 3 Bureau du Corps Legislate, Rue de Bourgogne. Annexes, Rue Neuve-Bourg-l’Abbe, 1; Hotel de Ville. — Rue du Faubourg-Saint Antoine, 196- — Rue Folie-Mericourt, 12. — Faubourg-Saint-Martin, 162; Plac& Lafayette 5. — Faubourg Saint Honore, Y5; Rue de Londres 33. — Petite Rue du Bac; Rue Saint-Domi- nique, 148. — Rue de la Sainte-Chapelle, 15 — Boulevard de l’Hopital, 5; Rue Saint- Louis-en-l’Ile, 29. — Rue Bourdaloue, 5. — Rue de Chaillot, 3. At the offices, 160, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin, and 22, Place Lafayette, letters for England, Belgium, etc., may be posted till 7 o’clock for the same night’s mail. The postage of letters in Paris is 10c. (Id.) prepaid, 15c. (l|d.) if unpaid. The uniform postage of pre-paid letters for all France is 20c. (2d.), unpaid one-half more. ENGLISH CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. Besides the service at the Embassy (Rue du. Faubourg St. Honore, No. 39), there are in Paris three places of worship belonging to tha Church of England, viz., in Rue d’Aguesseau, No. 5; Avenue Marbceuf, No. 10; and Rue de la Madeleine, No. 17. The church in Rue d’Aguesseau is attended by large congrega¬ tions, but is oppressed by a debt of £2,000. The service is now celebrated in the French language. There are services connected with the Church of Scotland, the Wesleyans and the Independents; besides two American places of worship. For particulars, see Brad¬ shaw's Continental Bailway Guide . 76 LIST OF CUSTOMS Z3XJTIES Payable on Articles imported from the Continent. Seer .. barrel Cards, playing.. dozen packs Chicory as Coffee.......... Chloroform............. lb. Cocoa ......*....... „ „ Paste and Chocolate... „ Coffee, raw. „ „ roasted ......,. „ Corn, Pease, and Beans ..». quarter „ Meal, Maccaroni, Vermicelli, Arrowroot, Starch, &c...... cwt. Dice .... pair Pruit, dry.....cwt. „ raw . Malt . quarter Pepper ....... lb. Pickles in Vinegar. gallon Plate of Gold ...... oz. Troy „ Silver.«........ „ ,, Battered... Bice, whole ... Ships ... ton register Spirits, all sorts .gall, proof „ perfumed, and Liqueurs. gallon „ Eau de Cologne in flasks, 30 to the gallon... each Spruce, essence of .... per £100 Sugar, according to quality.. cwt. from 10s. 4d. to „ confectionery... lb. r ^ ea ......... >» Timber ............... Tobacco, unmanufactured . lb. „ snuff .......... „ „ manufactured ........ „ 55 cigars.... „ Varnish, spirit. gallon „ other kinds .... „ Vinegar....... „ "Wine, containing less than 26 degrees of proof spirit ...... „ „ containing less than 42 degrees...... „ „ bottled, containing less than 42 degrees. ,> „ for every degree beyond 42 an additional 3d. per gallon. ALL OTHER ARTICLES ARE FREE, £ s. d. 10 0 0 3 9 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 1 0 0 2 0 0 3 0 0 4 0 10 0 0 4| 110 0 7 0 free 15 0 0 0 6 0 0 1 0 17 0 0 16 free free 0 10 0 10 5 0 14 0 0 0 6 10 0 0 0 18 4 0 0 2 0 10 various 0 3 0 0 3 9 0 4 0 0 5 0 0 12 0 free 0 0 3 0 10 0 2 6 0 2 6 ADVERTISEMENTS. 77 O S L, E R’S GLASS CHANDELIERS, WALL LIGHTS and LUSTRES, for GAS and CANDLES, TABLE GLASS, &c. GLASS DINNER SERVICES for 12 Persons, from £7 15s. GLASS DESSERT SERVICES for 12 Persons, from £2. ALL ARTICLES MARKED IN PLAIN FIGURES. ORNAMENTAL GLASS, ENGLISH and FOREIGN, SUITABLE FOR PRESENTS. Mess, Export, & Furnishing* Orders promptly executed. LONDON.—Show Rooms, 45, OXFORD STREET, W. BIRMINGHAM.—Manufactory and Show Rooms , BROAD STREET. ESTABLISHED 1807. CHANDELIERS IN BRONZE AND ORMOLU, FOR DINING ROOM AND LIBRARY, FOR GAS AND CANDLES. Candelabra, Moderator Lamps, in Bronze, Ormolu, China, and Glass. Statuettes in Parian, Vases and other Ornaments. OSLER, 45, OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W. [7-Lo. ADVERTISEMENTS, AIX-LA -CHA P ELLE. HOT ELD UGRAN DM ONARQUE. DREMEL’S HOTEL AT AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. T HIS magnificent and large Hotel, for Families and single Travellers, continues to maintain its European reputation for being the favoured residence of travellers of all nations. The proprietor, Mr. Fritz Dremel, obtained ihis unusual patronage by the cleanliness and comfort of his apartments (all the beds being of new construction), the richness and excellence of its viands and wines, added to the attention and civility of the attendants. Table d’HOte at 1 and 5 o’clock. The new Bath House attached to the Hotel also belongs to Mr. Dremel. It has extensive accom¬ modation, and its proximity is a great advantage to visitors. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Tepid-sul¬ phureous Baths, at a few miuutes’ notice. The Baths are supplied direct from the mineral springs. Mr. Dremel, the well-known landlord of the “Grand Monarque” Hotel, is also proprietor of the Hotel Nuellens, and personally superintends the management of both. Mr. Dremel spares no expense or efforts to render the accommodation of these superior first-class Hotels preferable to all others for Families and Gentlemen visiting Aix-la-Chapelle. [1-sr. ALGIERS. H OTEL DE LA REGENCE.—Place du Governement. This Hotel, the largest and handsomest in Algeria, is in the most admirable situation of the town. It forms a. long, massive, detached building, between the streets Bab-el-Oued, and Cleopatra, and the Street Mahon. It is the only one having a southern aspect, with a fine view of the sea and surrounding country. Handsome, large, and middling size apartments for families, on the first, second, and third floors, Single rooms on the same floors. Restaurant, Table d’HOte, and service a, la Carte. Prices really moderate. [2 -m. ALICANTE. H OTEL FONDA DEL VAPOR.—This large and well-known Hotel is situated on the Quay, and commands one of the finest views of the Harbour. The accom¬ modation will be found most comfortable, and the prices exceedingly moderate. Board and Lodging from Six Shillings and upwards per day, according to the size of the apartments. [3 -m ANTWERP. H OTEL DU GRAND LABOUREUR, Place de Meir.—This old-estab¬ lished and highly recommended Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and healthiest square of the city of Antwerp; its cleanliness, and the excellency of the Table d’Hote and wines, added to the attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it deservedly popular. [4 -m. BADEN - BADEN. TJOTEL DE HOLLANDE.—A, Roessler, Proprietor.—This favourite and first-class A JL Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The increase of business rendering it necessary to enlarge the Hotel, the Proprietor, in extending the premises, has introduced additional improvements, and has placed conveniences (i e., w.c.) upon every floor. The Hotel now consists of more than a hundred sleeping apartments, elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. It is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the most strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of English visitors. [5 -m. ADVERTISEMENTS. 79 BADEN-BADEN-Continued. H OTEL DE COUR DE BADE. (Badischer Hof.) Not to be confounded with the Hotel de la Ville de Bade opposite the Railway Station. A first-rate and large establish¬ ment, with extensive Gardens, Warm, Mineral, and other Baths, enjoying a well-merited reputation for its great comfort and attention. It is patronised by the most distinguished families. Manager, Mr. F. Ziegler. [6-m. H OTEL DE LA VILLE DE BADE.—Proprietor, Mr. Edward Roessler.— This Hotel, delightfully situated, and commanding views of the picturesque scenery, is entirely and newly furnished in the most elegant and comfortable manner. It will be found deserving the patronage of English Travellers, for its superior accommodation, and the attention shown to them by the proprietor. Advantageous arrangements can be made with families and single persons intending a long stay. [7-M. BIARRITZ, H OTEL DE FRANCE.—Delightfully situated, and having a branch establish¬ ment of a hundred rooms directly facing the sea—close to the Baths. This magnificent and very extensive establishment is fitted up in a very superior style, and conducted in a manner to deserve the recommendation given of it to English Travellers in Murray’s Hand-books for France—for comfort, civility, and attention which nothing can surpass. The Proprietor, Mr. Garderes, speaks English, and keeps carriages for excursions in the Pyrenees and Spain. Table d’Hote. Private dinners at a very moderate charge. [8-m. BONN. THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL. HHHIS first-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronised by the English Royal Family, JL the English Nobility, and Gentry, is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Ter¬ minus, and to the landing places of the Rhine Steam-boats. The Proprietor, Mr. J. SCHMIDT, begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Tourists. The apart¬ ments are furnished and carpeted throughout in the best English style, and the charges are moderate. Apartments during the winter at moderate prices. The London Times and New York Herald taken in during the whole year. SIX EXCELLENT PIANOS TO BE FOUND IN THE DIFFERENT SITTING-ROOMS. [9-m. BORDEAUX. H OTEL DES QUATRES SCEURS.— Place be la Comedie. This Hotel is deservedly recommended as being well situated and most comfortable. The prices of the apart¬ ments and refreshments are reasonable, and a printed copy of them is placed in each room for the information of visitors. [10-m. B ORDEAUX.—HOTEL DE NANTES, Quay Louis XVIII., No. 6 — First-class Hotel, most delightfully situated, facing the Port, in the centre of the City, near the Promenades, the Bourse, and Theatres. Is fitted up in a most superior style, has a good Restaurant, and a large stock of Wines. Large and small Apartments for Families and Gentlemen. Sitting- room for conversation, &c. Attendants speaking several languages. [11-m. 80 ADVERTISEMENTS. BOULOGNE-SGR-MER. H otel du pavillon imperial des bains de mek-Mr. BOURGOIS, Proprietor. This large and splendid Hotel, having been frequently patronised and honoured by the visits of their Majesties, the Emperor and Empress, was selected by them for the residence of H.M. Queen Victoria on hpr visit to Boulogne. This Hotel is established on a most exten¬ sive scale, and is fitted up in the superior style of the first and best class Hotels in England. Situated by the sea side, it commands fine views of the sea, and yet it is sheltered from the east winds. It is united to the old Hotel de Pavilion, and now forms an unrivalled establishment, capable of accommo¬ dating a large number of visitors. Hot and Cold Baths. An excellent Sea-bathing Establishment. [12-M. H UGHES’S ROYAL HOTEL, No. 1 , RUE D’ASSAS, corner of Rue d’Assas and Rue de l’Ecu; established in 1826, by the present Proprietress, Mrs. Hughes, combines home comforts with moderate charges. It is close to the Public Offices, Railway, and Port, and within six minutes’ walk of any part of Boulogne. Families boarded. Table d’Hote at half-past 5 o’clock. ___ [13 m. G RAND HOTEL CHRISTOL. — This vast and splendid Establishment, situated on the Port, the finest promenade of the town, near the Railway Terminus and the Steam-packet Station, recommends itself to notice by the reputation of its good cuisine. Conversation, Reading, and Music-room. English and“French newspapers. Divan Saloon exclusively reserved for Smokers. Warm Baths. Table d’Hote at six o’clock. Private Dinners and Breakfasts for families residents in the Hotel. _ [14-m. _ BREMEN. __ H OTEL DE L’EUROPE.—Alberti & 0. A. Schulze, Proprietors. This _ spacions and splendid Hotel, patronised by the Royal Family of Prussia, and the Gentry and Nobility of England, is situated on the Boulevards, and very near the Railway station, Post-office, and Theatres. Both English and French are spoken by the proprietors and servants of this Hotel. The apartments are carpeted and furnished in the English style, and there is a Drawing-room with a Piano, exclusively for the use of Ladies. The “Times,” “ New York Herald,” aud “Shipping Gazette” are taken in. Advantageous arrangements can be made with families remaining for any length of time. Warm and Cold Baths. ___ [15-ar. _ BRUGES, _ H OTEL DE.COMMERCE, near the Grande Place and the Railway Station, has long been favourably known to English families for its well-furnished and splendid apart¬ ments, its excellent accommodations, good cuisine and wines. An elegant omnibus conveys travellers to and from the Railway Station. The Proprietor, in recommending this old-established Hotel to the notice of visitors, begs they will not permit themselves to be misled by touters. [16-m. __ BRUSSELS. _ TUE ©RAM® ^©TIL'PE tSAMEj EXJE NEUVE, TV n the Grand Quai, Geneva, and hopes by his continued attention to the comforts of those travellers who n ay lavuur him w.th their support, that he shall give them perfect satisfaction. The Hotel is newly erected, beautifully situate ou the Grand Quai, and com¬ manding a splendid view of the Lake, with ns shores studded with villas. 11 contains 180 rooms, all furnished with every requisite to insure the perfect satisfaction of Englnh and other travellers. [34-m. H OTEL DANGLETERRE.— Messrs. Mayer and Kunz, Proprietors— Situated near the Railway Station and the Lake of Geneva, in the beautiful Mont Blanc Street, which commands a magnificent view of Mont Blanc and the Alps. The Hotel is elegantly furnished, and has SO Rooms. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Table d’Hote at 1 and 5. Private Dinners at all hours; moderate prices. [35 -m. H OTEL VICTORIA, by T. Berthunds.— This Hotel is situated in one of the most beautiful parts of the town, near the English Church, and close to the Railway Station, Steamers’ Office, and the Diligence for Chamounix. Its comfort and cleanliness recommend it particu¬ larly to English travellers. Table d’Hote; Private Dinners at very moderate prices; English, French German, and Italian spoken. [36-m. H OTEL HE LA COURONNE.—Situated on the Grand Quai, in an excellent position. Mr. Ch. Aldinger, Proprietor, begs leave to inform travellers that he has added to his Establishment a fine and extensive building, situated on the Quai du Rhone, from whence is a fine view of the Lake and of Mont Blanc. The apartments are most comfortable for families or single gentlemen. Good Stabling and Coach-houses. [37-m. MESSRS. AD.LANG ANI> PAIIOUX, 'WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELLERS.—Messrs. Ad. Lang andPadoux, V T Grand Quai, No. 171, beg to call the attention of travellers to their establishment, in which they will always find a large assortment of Chronometers, Repeaters, TIME PIECES FOR HORSE RACES, Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s watches of all kinds, as recommendable for the perfection of the works as for the variety and good taste of the case ornaments. The watches sold are warranted at the various cor¬ respondents’ abroad as well as in Geneva itself. Agents and correspondents in the principal cities of Europe and America. A select assortment of jewels of the latest and most tastefnl description, and of SINGING BIRD BOXES is also to be found in this establishment. All the persons employed in the above stores speak English. [38-m. 84 ' ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA—Continued. TYTATCHES AND JEWELLERY.—A. Malignon, 6, Rue de la Corraterie, t T first floor. This being one of the oldest manufacturing establishments in Geneva, is reputed for the excellent quality and workmanship of its articles. An extensive and select variety of Jewellery and Watches of the best description. [40 -m. P ATEK PHILLIPPE & CO., Geneva Watch Manufacturers, honoured with Medals from the London, New York, and Paris Universal Exhibitions. In the workshops every separate part of a watch is made from the rough metal to the entire completion of the watch. Plain and complex Watches and Chronometers, definitively regulated for the pocket, winding up and setting to time with or without a key. [41-m. GHENT. H OTEL DE LA POSTE.—PLACE D’ARMES. Mr. C. Dubus, late Pro. prietor of the Hotel de Flandre, begs to inform English Travellers that he has removed to the above well-known, first-rate, and beautifully situated Establishment, which affords extensive and snperior accommodation for families and single gentlemen. In taking the above-named Hotel de la Poste, Mr. Dubus is enabled to offer suitable accommodation to the most opulent families, and to commercial gentlemen, and pledges himself to spare no exertions to deserve the patronage of all -classes of travellers. [39 -m. HAMBURG. STREIT’S HOTEL. SUPERIOR FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FOR FAMILIES & GENTLEMEN, ADMIRABLY SITUATED ON THE JUNG FERNSTEIG, COMMANDING EXTENSIVE VIEWS OF THE ALSTER BASIN, AND IS MOST CENTRALLY SITUATED FOR VISITORS; Unrivalled accommodation, combining comfort and elegance with all the luxuries of home. This Hotel has for a number of years secured a patronage of the highest respectability, and Mr. Streit, the Proprietor, will spare no endeavour to give satisfaction. Table d’Hote at Four o’clock. [42 -m. THE HAGUE. H OTEL BELLE VUE.—C. A. E. Maitland, Proprietor.—This favourite and first-class Hotel, pleasantly situate opposite the Royal Park, in the most delightful part of the Hague, commanding a most beautiful prospect near the promenade and public buildings, is fitted up in a very superior style, and conducted by the proprietor, who is of English extraction, in a manner to render it deserving the extensive patronage it enjoys among the nobility and gentry of the Continent. English travellers will find it a most desirable residence for comfort and accommodation, which nothing can surpass, and for civility and attention. In addition to the beautiful rural scenery in front of the house, there is a fine extensive garden, with shaded lawns and a pavilion. Arrangements made by the month on favourable terms. Table d’Hote at half-past four o’clock. [43 -m. AD VEKTISEMEN TS. 85 THE HAGUE-Continued. H OTEL PATJLEZ, formerly Heerer Logement.—Korte Worhaen, at the Hague.—This Hotel has been entirely refitted and refurnished throughout in the best taste possible, and is situated in the finest quarter of the city, facing the Theatre Royal, at the entrance to the wood. The Table d’Hote at half-past four, served with the greatest care, and ires recherche , is the most frequented. The proprietor has spared no expense to insure that every comfort and convenience of modern invention that the most fastidious traveller can wish, should be found in this establishment. The Hotel has recently been enlarged, and now contains several additional apartments.—P. Paulez, Proprietor. [44 -m. HEIDELBERG H OTEL DU PRINCE CHARLES.—Kept by H. Sommer Franck, in the Market Place, near to the Castle, with the finest view of it. This Hotel, patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales and Prince Alfred, is without question the best situated and most frequented in the town ; it possesses an excellent cuisine , and is favourably known for its clean and airy bed-rooms, good attendance, and very reasonable prices. Large and small apartments of all descriptions for families and single gentlemen. [45 -m. M ULLER’S VICTORIA HOTEL and PENSION—formerly known as Muller’s Family Hotel—close to the Railway Station on the Aulage, the most fashionable part of the town; commands a magnificent view of the castle and mountains, and enjoys the patronage of the English nobility and gentry, both on account of the excellence of its cuisine, and the cleanliness and airiness of its apartments. The garden, which is very large, and situated on the side of the mountain, is a great advantage to families. The house is elegantly furnished after the English style, and the terms are very moderate. This hotel is also mentioned in Murray’s Hand-book. The Reading-room is- supplied with English newspapers. Advantageous arrangements can be made with families intending a longer stay. _____ [46 -m. KREUZNACH, OS CRSPZNACH. _ H OTEL DE HOLLANDE, Mr. Jung, Proprietor. — This splendid first-rate Hotel and Boarding-House is beautifully situate on high grounds surrounded with gardens, and commanding extensive panoramic views of Kreuznach, the Rhine, Johannisberg, and the country round as far as Wiesbaden. The Hotel is most elegantly furnished, and fitted up with every English convenience. It affords superior accommodation for the nobility, large or small families, or single persons. The Bath Rooms are large and airy, and the Baths are lined with marble. Table d’Hote at 1 and 4. English and French spoken. Families received enpension. [47-m. LAUSANNE. H OTEL GIBBON (1st Class), Mr. Ritter, Proprietor.—Is situate on one of the most beautiful sites in Switzerland, and commands admirable views of the splendid scenery around Lausanne. This well-known and extensively patronised Establishment has been recently newly furnished with all the elegance and regard to comfort to which English travellers are accustomed, and being conducted under the immediate superintendence of Mr. Ritter, will be found to afford very superior accommodation. [48 -m. LIEGE, H OTEL DE SUEDE (proprietor, 'Mr. Dalimier), one of the finest and best in Belgium, and the most frequented at Liege, is admirably situated, facing the Royal Theatre, the Boulevards, and nearest the Railway Station and Steamboats. Patronised by Travellers of all nations; it possesses an excellent cuisine, and is favourably known for its scrupulous cleanliness, good attendance, and reasonable prices.—Large and small Apartments, combining every domestic comfort. Hot Baths to be had. The dining saloon is splendid and elegant, and well supplied with foreign Newspapers, including the London Times. English spoken. Notice.—Hotel de Suede, exceedingly good in every respect, Mr. Dalimier, Proprietor. [49-M, 86 ADVERTISEMENTS. LYONS GRAMB HOTEL BE LYON, HUE IMPERIAL, AND PLACE DE LA BOURSE, LYONS. T WO HUNDRED BED-ROOMS and TWENTY SALOONS, in every Variety; Large and small Apartments for families, elegantly furnished. Although the GRAND HOTEL BE LYON affords the most elegant accommodation for the highest classes, it is frequented by visitors of the humblest pretensions. Rooms at 2 frs. very comfortably furnished. TABLE D’HOTE at 4 frs. In consequence of the Proprietors having contracted with the Bor¬ deaux and Burgundy wine growers for supplies of their best wines, qualities of the best vintages may be bad at this hotel at moderate prices. Since the Hotel has been in the hands of new proprietors', instead of a company, the reduction they have made in the prices precludes them from paying fees to the cab and coach drivers at the Kailway Station. [50 m. METZ. H OTEL DE L’EUROPE, Mr. Momer, Proprietor.—This first-rate Hotel, much frequented by Families and Gentlemen, situated in the finest part of the town, near the Railway Station and Promenade, is replete with every comfort, the apartments are tastefully and ele¬ gantly furnished. It is celebrated for its cleanliness, good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading and Refreshment Rooms. Table d’hote at 1 and 5 o’clock; Breakfasts and Dinners at all hours. Advantageous arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine extensive garden and large court-yard. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses and carriages belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Railway Station. English, French, Italian, and German spoken. [51-m. MILAN. H OTEL MARIN O (5, Rue Marino, Mr. C. Guzzi, Proprietor,) is situated in the most central part of the town, near the grand Theatre de la Scala and others; it is also close to the Dome, and other principal buildings of the city. This large and extensive Hotel affords the best accommodation travellers can desire, at moderate charges. Restaurant at fixed prices, or a la carte. Dinners at all hours. Baths in the Hotel always ready. English, French, and Italian newspapers. English, French, and German spoken. [52-m. QSTEND. H OTEL FONTAINE.—This Hotel is situated in the Longue Rue, near the King’s Palace, the Kursaal, and Casino, nearest to the sea. It is patronised by the nobility and gentry, and°frequently has the honour of receiving Princely visitors. It contains a large number of apartments, handsomely furnished (overlooking a garden), and a new and extensive dining-room of noble dimensions, ornamented with a fine collection of paintings. This Hotel is one of the finest establishments in the country. An Omnibus belonging to the Hotel conveys passengers to and from the trains. This Hotel remains open all the winter season. The Pro¬ prietor is also Director of the Bathing Establishment. [53-m. PARIS. H OTEL DU CALAIS.—5, Rue Neuve des Capucines, kept by Mr. Hauser, a new, young, and experienced Proprietor. This Hotel is particularly recommended for its com¬ fortable apartments and bedrooms; its excellent Table d’Hote, and polite attendants. Arrangements made for board and lodging by the day, week, or month. The situation is most eligible, being close to the Place Vendome, and the Boulevards des Italiens. Charges moderate. English newspapers. The Proprietor speaks English, and spares no endeavours to make travellers comfortable. [54 -m, ADYERTISEMEN T3. ROUEN S MITH'S ALBION HOTEL, Quai de la Bourse, No. 16.—Mr. L. Roger, Proprietor, returning his grateful thanks for the patronage this Hotel has so long been favoured with, begs to inform Travellers who visit the fine old City of Rouen, that it is his constant study to render his Hotel worthy of the reputation it has enjoyed, of comfortable accommodation with reason¬ able prices. It has been recently enlarged and splendidly fitted up, and now contains large and small apartments.—Restaurant and Table d’Hote. Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Hotel. [55 -m. G RAND HOTEL D’ANGrLETERRE, on the Quay—Mr. H. Delafosse, Proprietor. This Hotel is distinguished for the salubrity of its situation and the comfort of its arrangements. It is situated on the Quay, facing the Bridges, and commands the finest view of the Seine, and the magnificent scenery encircling Rouen, that it is possible to imagine. Travellers will find at this first-rate establishment every comfort—airy Rooms, good Beds, Refreshments and Wines of the best quality at moderate prices. An excellent Table d’Hote at half-past five, price 3 fr. Restaurant h la carte. Mr. Delafosse speaks English, and has English servants. An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. Delafosse. [56-m. STUTTGART. H OTEL MARQUARDT is situated in the finest part of the town, in the beautiful Place Royal, near the Railway Station, the Post-office, the Theatre, the Royal Gardens, opposite the Palace, and facing the new Odeon. This Hotel will be found most comfortable in every respect, the apartments are elegantly furnished, and suitable for families or single gentlemen. Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. French and English newspapers. Gme. Marquardt, Proprietor. [57 -m. STRASBOURG H OTEL DE PARIS.— Mr. J. Diemer, Proprietor of this unrivalled Establishment, respectfully offers his grateful acknowledgments to the English Nobility and Gentry for their continued patronage, and avails himself of this occasion to assure Travellers visiting Strasbourg that no efforts will be spared on his part to render their sojourn at the above Hotel both comfortable and satisfactory. Charges moderate. Breakfast, Ifr. 50c. Table d'Hote at 1 o’clock, 3fr., and at 6 o’clock, 4fr. Breakfasts and Dinners a la carte at all prices. Rooms from lfr. 50c. to 4fr., lights included. Pension from 6fr. to 8fr. per day. [58 -m. TREVES, ON THE MOSELLE. H OTEL ROTHES HAUS.—A first-rate and comfortable Hotel—best situa¬ tion on the principal Market-place. The “ London Times ” taken in during the season. Prices: Breakfast (Coffee or Tea, with bread and butter), lfr. 25 c.; Dinner at 1 o’clock, 3 fr.; Dinners in private at 3, 4, and 5 frs., or d la carte; a Single Bed-room, 2 frs., including candles; Attendance, l fr.; for Families staying some time, cheaper prices will be made by the proprietor, Joseph Beckek.[59-m. TOURS. G RAND HOTEL DE BORDEAUX.—First-class Establishment for Families and Single Gentlemen; situated on the Boulevard, opposite the Railway Station. Baths in the Hotel. English spoken. [60-m. T HE HOTEL DE L’UNIVERS.—One of the finest Hotels between Paris and Madrid, is situated on the Boulevard, in the prettiest and most agreeable part of the town, close to the Railway Station. The comforts of this Establishment correspond with the splendour of the exterior. Mr. Duchemtn, the proprietor, has received the highest testimonials from families who sojourned at his Hotel in their visits to the beautiful Tour-raine, and from Travellers who have passed the winter at Tours. The large and small apartments are equally well furnished, and kept with the greatest care. There is a reading-room in the Hotel, supplied with French and foreign newspapers. An excellent Table d’Hote at hal;-past 5. Omnibuses to and from every Train. English spoken. [61 -m! 88 ADVERTISEMENTS. VILLENEUVE. H OTEL LORD BYRON, near Chillon. —This large and first-rate establish¬ ment, in one of the most picturesque situations of the Lake of Geneva, enjoys a very mild and salubrious climate. The hotel is surrounded with beautiful walking-grounds. Me. Wolf, the new " Proprietor, who entirely renewed this hotel, hopes to merit the confidence of all English travellers j stopping or sojourning for a time at Villeneuve. Large and small apartments. Large Reading-room. 5 Omnibuses to and from the Stations at Villeneuve. [62 -m. WIESBADEN, BATHS OP. F OUR SEASONS HOTEL AND BATH-HOUSE, and HOTEL ZAIS, i Dr. Zais, Proprietor, in the best and most delightful situation, opposite the Kursaal, the colonnades, 1 the theatres, the principal promenades, and close to the newly-erected drinking hall, all the windows over¬ looking the fine and greatly re-embellished square. Large suites of apartments, newly furnished in the most elegant and comfortable style. The house has its own mineral spring, which supplies its numerous bathing-rooms. Table d’Hote at one and five o’clock. Dinners apart and a la carle. [63-m. 1ST O W jR E ADY: BRADSHAW’S RAILWAY MANUAL, SHAREHOLDERS’ GUIDE, AND OFFICIAL DIRECTORY FOR 1863, BEING THE FIFTEENTH VOLUME OF THIS MOST IMPORTANT CYCLOPAEDIA OF RAILWAY INTELLIGENCE. LONDON—W. J. ADAMS (Bradshaw’s Guide Office), 59, FLEET STREET, E.G EFFINGHAM WILSON, ROYAL EXCHANGE, E.C. MANCHESTER—BRADSHAW AND BLACKLOCK. ADVERTISEMENTS. GLASS For the Protection may be injured SHADES of all Articles which by exposure. AQUARIA f <> r Volunteers, and Srnail Bores for Prize Shooting m great variety. Price Lists forwarded PATENT REVOLVERS.—All the approved systems of these efficient T JS?® & «“ d ) l A e i S r» V n CaS f com P lefce * or with leather holsters. saEoon E pistols A aId “ d Apparatus ’ from65s - Orde or E. M. BEILEY &Co., GUN MAKERS, 502, NEW OXFORD-ST., LONDON. BRANCH ESTABLISHMENT, 315, NEAR REGENT CIRCUS. [4-Lo. ADVERTISEMENTS. BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.O. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES OF 500 OTHER ARTICLES FOR HOME OR CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING, POST FREE. ALLEN’S PATENT BAG. SOLID LEATHER DRESSING CASE. ALLEN’S NEW DRESSING BAG ALLEN’S PATENT QUADRUPLE PORTMANTEAU. fPBISE MEDAL/I L AWARDED 1862. J LADY’S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU, ALLEN’S PATENT DESPATCH-BOX DESK. ALLEN’S SOLID MAHOGANY DRESSING-CASE. J. W, ALLEN, -/XUNTID PATENTEE, 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON. ALSO, ALLEN’S ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF OFFICERS’ PORTABLE BEDSTEADS, DRAWERS, CHAIRS, CANTEENS, AND EVERY REQUISITE FOR THE BARRACK ROOM, CAMP, AND FIELD, POST. [15-Lo. [Pam] Advertisements, LOTSTDOZN", Victoria Station, West End DAY AND NIGHT FIXED LONDON TO PARIS and Back, LONDON TO PARIS. PLACES from * Express. * Express. London.... Dover .... 7 0 a.m. 9 20 „ 8 0 p.m, 10 20 „ Ditto...... 9 35 „ 10 40 „ Calais , 12 10 p.m. 3 35 „ 1 30 a.m. Amiens 4 55 „ Paris. 6 0., 7 20 .. * Between London and Calais, 1st and 2nd class; and between Calais and Paris, 1st class only. MAIL AND EXPRESS SERVICES TO Via DOVER AND CALAIS. From LONDON. To ] LONDON. PLACES from Day Service. Day Service. Night Service. PLACES from Night Service. Day Service. Day Service. London(Victoria)dep. Dover . ,, Calais . „ Lille. ,, Brussels . arr. Antwerp. ,, Aix la Chapelle.. ,, Cologne . 7 0 a.m. 9 35 „ 12 20 p.m. 2 10 „ 6 45 „ 3* *5 a.m. 4 40 .. 9 15 a.m. 11 45 „ 2 25 p.m. 4 40 „ 9 25 „ 3 5 a m. 4 40 ,. 8 0 p.m. 10 40 „ 1 45 a.m. 5 40 „ 9 55 „ 10 7 ,, 2 21p.m. 4 10 ,, Cologne .dep. Aix la Chapelle.. ,, Antwerp. ■„ Brussels . „ Lille. „ Calais .. Dover. London (Victoria) arr. 10 30 p.m. 12 0 „ 6' 0 a.m. 11 5 ,, 1 20 p.m. 4 0 „ 6 15 „ 6 30 a.m. 7 35 „ 1 25p m. 3 45 " 6 0 „ 8 20 ., 9 45 a.m. 11 15 „ 3 30 p.m. 5 20 „ 10 40 „ 1 40 a.m. 4 30 „ 6 45 „ * On the 9th, 10th, 11th, 23rd, 24th, and 25fch, the hour of departure will be later. (S. Tidal Service.) *lst and 2nd class by all the Trains and Boats of the Chatham and Dover Railway, and Passengers are proceed by Trains that are THROUGH Including Steward’s Fee, via Calais, but Passengers are respectfully informed that they will save themselves trouble, as well as the LONDON TO FIRST CLASS. SECOND CLASS. Period for which available. Places for which there are separate Cou¬ pons in the Through Ticket, at which the Passenger can break the journey. Calais .... £ s. d. 15 0 £ s. d. 0 19 0 7 Days. Dover. Calais. 2 0 0 110 0 14 Days. Dover. Paris (via Calais), Single 2 14 4 2 10 7 Days. Dover, Calais, and Amiens. Paris(viaCalais),Retum 3 12 0 2 12 0 1 Calendar Month. Dover, Calais, and Amiens. Note,— Passengers are particularly requested to observe that all Registered Baggage from the Continent is Station and attend the Customs Examination, or their Offices where THROUGH TICKETS and Chief West-End OfKce-VICTOBIA STATION. City Offices-50, LOMBARD STREET, and 20, MOORGATE STREET S-Lo.] ADVERTISEMENTS. -A-DTID DOVER RAILWAY. Central Terminus, Pimlico, S.W., MAIL EXPRESS SERVICES. via DOVER AND CALAIS. PARIS to LONDON. PLACES from f Express. t Express. Paris ... dep dep arr 7 20 a.m. 7 p.m. 9 36 „ 1 35 a.m. 1 40 ,, 4 30 „ - Amiens . 9 14 Calais ... 1 10 p.m, 1 20 „ Ditto . dep dep arr Dover ... 4 0,, London . 6 20 ,. t Between Paris and Calais, 1st class; and between Calais and London, 1st and 2nd class. BELGIUM, GERMANY, AND THE RHINE. Via DOVER and OSTEND. From LONDON. To LONDON. PLACES from *Day Service. *Night Service. PLACES from *Day Service. *Night Service. London (Victoria) dep Dover. arr Dover. dep Ostend.arr about Ostend. dep Brussels (NrthSta.) „ Antwerp. arr Aix la Chapelle .. ,, Cologne. „ 9 15 a.m. 11 30 a.m. 12 0 noon 4 30 p.m. 7 0 „ 9 30 ,, 1st class. 3 5 a.m. 4 40 „ 8 0 p.m. 10 20 „ 10 40* ,. 4 30 a.m. 7 10 „ 10 15 „ 11 30 „ 2 20 p.m. | 4 10 „ *Sun. exceptd Cologne. dep Aix la Chapelle.. ,, Antwerp. „ Brussels. „ Ostend... Dover.arr. about Dover. dep London (Victoria) arr 10 30 p.m. 12 0 mid. 1st & 2nd cl. 6 6 a.m. 9 0 „ 2 0 p.m. 4 0,, 6 20 10 0 a.m. 11 30 „ 3 30 p m. 5 40 „ t7 0 ,, 2 0 a.m. 4 30 „ 6 45 ., tSat. excepted only booked through 2nd class, on the understanding that they pay the difference of fare if they wish to 1st Class only on the Continent. TICKET RATES. not via Ostend, where Is. extra is charged. risk of detention and inconvenience, by availing themselves of THROUGH TICKETS. LONDON TO FIRST CLASS. j SECOND CL. Period tor which available' Places for which there are separate Cou¬ pons in the Through Ticket, at which the Passenger can break the journey. Ostend.(Single) Brussels.... „ Aix-la-Chapelle „ Cologne.... ,, £ s. d. 1 11 9 Via I Via Calais. Ostend. 2 5 10 2 3 4 3002 16 4 3 7 8l 3 4 0 £ 8. d. 13 1 Via j Via Calais.! Ostend. 1 14 7 1 11 4 2 5 3 2 1 0 2 10 7 2 6 6 7 Days 1 Month. I Month. II Month. Dover. ( Dover, Calais, Lille (or Valenciennes), Mous- < cron (or Quievrain), Ghent, (or Surbise ); or ( Dover, Ostend, Bruges, Ghent. /"Same aa Brussels (via Ca’aisj; also Bruseels(oi ) Malines), Louvrain and Liege. ) "j Same as Brussels (via Ostend) and Pepinster: \ also Malice 0 , Louvrain, and Liege Same as and including Aix-la-Chapelle i examined at the Custom House at Dover ; passengers on landing must therefore proceed at once to the Luggage will not be put into the Train for London. INFORMATION can be obtained Paris Office—No. 1, Rue des CAPUCINES. Corner of the RUE de la PAIX* Calais Offlce-Mr.THQMSETT. Viee s Con6Ul> „ ^ ___ J, g, FORBES, General Manager.