Ti«it|HMftii(riiiHitiHi,,ifM^7TrnmnitvTrP^-^^i»Ii^g^^^^; SCULPTURED DRUM OF COLUMN N? 2. TEMPLE OF DIANA. ma /v i/rn # » ♦ ■» ■F- % DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS INCLUDING THE SITE AND REMAINS OF THE GREAT TEMPLE OF DIANA BY J. T. WOOD, F.S.A. FELLOW OF THE ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1877 All rights reserved DEDICA TION WITH THE GRACIOUS PERMISSION OF HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN ®bis ^ook is ip^bixateb WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ARTHUR DUKE OF CONNAUGHT AND STRATHEARNE DUKE OF SAXONY, PRINCE OF COBURG AND GOTHA, K.G. K.T. K.P. G.C.M.G. ETC. IN REMEMBRANCE OF THE VISIT OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS TO EPHESUS AND OF A FEW BRIGHT DAYS DURING WHICH THE AUTHOR HAD THE HONOUR AND THE PLEASURE OF ACCOMPANYING HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS TO MITYLENE, PERGAMOS, AND ASSOS IN THE YEAR 1865 INTRODUCTION. The object of the work which I now offer to the public is to lay before it a narrative of the discoveries at Ephesus, and the results of the excavations which were carried on, for nearly eleven years, under the auspices of the Trustees of the British Museum. My chief purpose in undertaking the excavations, which were commenced in 1863, was to find the remains of the Great Temple of Diana which had been buried for so many centuries. All trace of it above ground had disappeared, and many even doubted whether such a building ever existed. It was desirable that for any sums of money expended by the Trustees there should be some substantial return. The Odeum and the Great Theatre were therefore first of all explored. The results of these explorations were so satisfac¬ tory that I was permitted, in the year 1867, to devote a small portion of a fresh grant to my search for the Temple. Further discoveries of interest were then made, which justified the expenditure of a larger sum in continuing the search. After six years of toil, and at a time when the Trustees considered that there was little or no hope of success, I most fortunately hit upon the corner of the peribolus wall, containing inscrip- INTR OD UCTION. tions which placed beyond doubt the fact that the approxi¬ mate site of the Temple was at last discovered. Sufficient sums of money were then granted by the Trustees to complete the discovery, and this was accomplished before the expiration of that year (1869). From that time till April 1874 the ex¬ plorations on the site of the Temple were continued from season to season, until it was cleared for a considerable distance beyond the lowest step of the platform on which the last Temple had been raised. The results of this work, which cost about 12,000/., comprised the discovery of a large number of valuable blocks of sculpture and architecture, and of other antiquities, consisting chiefly of the remains of the last Temple. A small number only of these can at present be exhibited to the public, for want of space in our Museum. The total cost of the excavations from first to last was 16,000/. In addition to the narrative of my work at Ephesus, I have appended a selection from the numerous Greek and Latin inscriptions which were discovered in the excavations. I could not have published these without the kind assistance which I have had from many scholars, especially as I have ventured to print translations of the majority of them. They must, however, be considered in a manner as tentative, especi¬ ally as the text contains many novelties and a great number of difficult passages, which require more time than could be spent upon them for this work. I have ventured also to adopt a new mode of indicating the restored portions of the I JNTR OD UCTION. inscriptions: considering that brackets displace the letters of the text, disjoint the words, and create confusion. Every letter which does not actually exist on the stones has been carefully underlined: by this means there is no displace¬ ment, and the inscriptions can be more easily read than they could have been if intercepted by brackets. I have to thank Mr. Newton, keeper of the Greek and Roman antiquities in the British Museum, for allowing me, and several of the scholars who have assisted me, free access to the room in the basement where the inscriptions are now placed, and also for his occasional assistance in reading the text. I append a list of the names of those scholars who have so kindly and materially aided me with the text and trans¬ lations, some of whom, in addition to wholly deciphering and translating certain inscriptions, have given me valuable advice and assistance in respect to others. I am also greatly indebted to the eminent epigraphist and archaeologist Monsieur W addington, now French Minister ot Public Instruction, for many valuable suggestions in respect to the inscriptions; and I take this opportunity of making my most grateful acknowledgments to all who have assisted me. J. T. WOOD. London : October 1876. X ADDENDA. ADDENDA. In Part II. Chap. 6, p. 258, I have described a drain dis¬ covered in the foundations of the altar, which I suppose was employed to carry away the water used in washing the sur¬ face of the altar after sacrifice. I do not here mean to imply that bullocks and rams were slaughtered upon the altar in the naos of the Temple, but that, after the offering of the sacrifice in the Temple, the altar must have been repeatedly cleansed by water. The ritual of the worship of Artemis is unknown ; but we gather some facts from ancient writers which enlighten us on the subject to a certain degree, and especially in reference to the sacrifice. From these it is fair to conclude that beasts were slaughtered at altars in front of Temples, and that small portions of the flesh, and perhaps basins of the blood, were carried into the Temple and offered to the deity upon the great altar, the flesh being put upon some small pieces of wood with which a fire was made. If the smoke ascended freely, the offering was supposed to be accepted : and here we have one of several reasons for concluding that temples were in part absolutely open to the sky. The sculp¬ tured block, representing the winged figure of a man leading a ram, found at the west end of the Temple of Diana, had probably formed part of one of the external altars in front of the Temple. In this position it was found. Professor Paley has kindly furnished me with the following note, in illus¬ tration of the manner in which the sacrifice was made :— ADDENDA. xi ‘ It appears probable that the sacrifice of animals, and the burning of the portions of meat on the altar, were performed in the court (a v\r\) in front of the temple. The victims indeed may have been killed in the precinct, and small por¬ tions of the choicer parts (/x^pfa) carried within, to burn on the altar with dry split wood (cr^ai). This may also have been done on private or domestic altars (eo-^apai) of Zeus K/nfcrios, Zeus ‘Ep/eetos, &c. But in the “ Oedipus at Colonus ” of Sophocles (898), Theseus, when suddenly called away from a sacrifice of oxen (j 3 ovOvtojv ) to Poseidon, sends a messenger to the altar, ordering the people to come in hot haste, on horse¬ back and on foot, from the sacrifice ; a mandate which seems less consistent with a congregation within a temple than with out-of doors spectators. ‘ In the “ Andromache” of Euripides (1100-1123) the son of Achilles is suddenly attacked, while performing a sacrifice, by an armed host who had concealed themselves behind the bay- trees at Delphi. Finding himself thus assailed, he snatches a shield from the front wall or portico of the temple, leaps upon the altar (ecrr^ ini fiwpov ), takes his stand, and defends himself against the missiles hurled at him from all sides. Here the scene seems wholly external, though some ambi¬ guity arises from these words ep^erat 8’ avaKTopojv KprjnlSos ivros, v. 1112. ‘ Again, in the “ Trachiniae ” of Sophocles (753) Hercules is described as performing a sacrifice of many victims ( noXvdvrovs cr<£ayas) on an altar which he had himself erected on a head¬ land, and which evidently stands on a cliff overhanging the sea, for he hurls the herald Lichas from the altar into the waves beneath.’ ADDENDA. xii Among the numerous fragments of sculpture and archi¬ tecture found at a low level in the excavations on the site of the Temple, there were several of a very archaic character and of remarkable interest. These are some small portions of what were probably the bases of columns similar to the sculptured columns of the last Temple : one of them has traces of sculpture, another has sculpture attached to it; but not the least interesting is a fragment which is inscribed with the characters here shown— 111 J!. These cannot at present be recognised as forming part of any Greek or Semitic word ; but, guided by the character of the sculpture, Mr. Newton is of opinion that all these fragments belonged to the Temple to which Croesus contributed some of the columns, and that therefore the date of the inscription may be as early as b.c. 560. CONTENTS. PART I. CHAPTER PAGE I. Brief Description and History of the City of Ephesus . . 3 II. Excavations commenced: Results to March 1864. . . . 16 III. Tfie Odeum explored : St. Luke’s Tomb, etc.42 IV. The Great Theatre explored.68 V. Public Buildings of the City, etc.97 VI. Search for the Temple of Diana : Discovery of Road and Tombs, and of the Peribolus Wall .m PARI II I. Season 1869-70. Discoveries within Peribolus Wall: Dis¬ covery of the Temple, the Augusteum and other Buildings . 147 II. Season 1870-71. Excavations on the Site of the Temple: Discoveries.168 III. Season 1871-72. Further Discoveries on the Site of the Temple ..186 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTEK PAGE IV. Season 1872-73. Excavations at the Temple.213 V. Season 1873-74 [to December 31,1873]. Excavations continued . 236 VI. Season 1873-74 [January to April]. Temple of Diana de¬ scribed : Excavations suspended : Conclusion of Narrative 255 {For further details of Contents, see headings of Chapters .) APPENDIX. GREEK AND LATIN INSCRIPTIONS FROM EPHESUS FOUND IN THE EXCAVATIONS. I. Inscriptions from the Peribolus Wall of the Artemisium (Temple of Diana) and the Augusteum. II. Inscriptions from the Temple of Diana found in the Great Theatre. III. Inscriptions from the Site of the Temple of Diana. IV. Inscriptions from the Augusteum. V. Inscriptions from the Odeum. VI. Inscriptions from the Great Theatre. VII. Inscriptions from Tombs, Sarcophagi, etc. VIII. Inscriptions from the City and Suburbs. Postscript. Additional Note on Inscription from the Site of the Temple, No. 7. The errors of the stone-cutter have been allowed to stand in the text, and some of these mav not have been remarked upon in foot-notes. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PLATES. Sculptured Drum of Column, No. 2 . General Plan of the Ruins of Ephesus Ephesus from Ayasalouk. View of Ephesus and Ayasalouk .... The Odeum, Plan, etc. St Luke’s Tomb. Elevation and Plan . Interior of Odeum. Plan of Great Theatre . The Great Theatre (View). Mosaic Pavements and Enrichments from Temple A Turkish Robber. Mosaic Pavement. Small Mosque, Ayasalouk .... Mosaic Pavement (Triton). Base of a Column found in position . . . . Frontispiece to face page 1 4 )) >5 >> 52 58 62 68 74 102 136 148 162 172 176 xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. * Coins found on the Site of the Temple Part of sculptured Frieze., Temple of Diana View of Excavations on Site of the Temple, looking East, December, 1871. Capital of Column. Part of sculptured Frieze, Temple of Diana W fEST ) to face page 182 „ 188 1 » I 9 2 '1 196 214 Part of sculptured Drum of Column, No. 3 . Sculptured Drum, No. 4. Group of Workmen and their Superintendents Pari - of sculptured Drum of Column, No. 4 . Plan of the Temple of Diana .... Perspective View of the Temple of Diana . West Elevation, Temple of Diana East Elevation „ „ ... . South Elevation „ „ Transverse Section. Longitudinal Section. Columns and Entablature, West Front „ „ East Front . • J 218 222 228 246 262 264 268 272 * For the use of this plate my thanks are due to H. A. GRl'EUER, Esq., of the British Museum, and to the Numismatic Society of London. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii WOOD ENGRAVINGS PAGE Tower and Sally-port.6 Plan of Wall, with Tower, Steps, and Sally-port .... 7 Rock-cut Church.13 The Great Gymnasium.27 Wing of Great Gymnasium. 29 Baptismal Font in Forum. 3 2 Plan of Hall near Gymnasium. 35 Christian Tombstone.36 The Muse Erato. 49 Torso of Silenus. 5 1 The Chalet, Ephesus Pass. 55 Door-jamb, St. Luke’s Tomb. 57 Graffito from Basilica.61 Roman Arch, Great Theatre.69 Bust of an Emperor. 75 Triton blowing a Shell. 7 6 Excavator’s House, and Aqueduct, Ayasalouk.80 Serapion Altar. 99 Double Church. 100 The Ruins of the Prytaneum. IO > a xvm LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Mosaic Pavements Plan of the Pnyx . Peace and War .... Tomb of a Lictor . Christian Tomb-stone . Bas-relief from Tomb Rock-cut sepulchral Recesses . Sarcophagus with Medusa’s Head Peribolus Wall .... Fountain at Belevi . . . . Pan as a Warrior Discovery of the Temple Drum of a sculptured Column Village of Ayasalouk Discovery of Columns . Group of Arabian Pottery . Christian Martyr Cymatium. Medal of Hadrian Medal of Gordianus Figure of Artemis Archaic Figure of Artemis . I’AGE 103 104 ”3 114 122 123 124 129 133 138 153 160 166 170 171 201 222 250 266 267 269 270 LIST OF SCHOLARS TO WHOM THE AUTHOR IS INDEBTED FOR ASSISTANCE IN THE INSCRIPTIONS. *Babington, Rev. Prof. Churchill, D.D., IV. i, 2; VI. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9t, iof, iif, 12. Churton, Rev. W. R., B.D., Resident Fellow of King’s College, Cambridge, and Honorary Canon of Rochester Cathedral, IV. 3-13. *Hort, Rev. F. J. A., D.D., Fellow of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, III. 1, 2 ; VI. 4, 14 ; VIII. 2, 3, 4, 5. Jackson, Henry, Esq., M.A., Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, VIII. if. *Lightfoot, Rev. Prof. J. B., D.D., Canon of St. Paul’s, III. n, 12, 13, 14, 15, 18 ; VII. 6, 8f, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17 ; VIII. 16. Mayor, Rev. Prof., M.A., Senior Fellow of St. John’s College, Cambridge. Accentuated and corrected the Greek text, and corrected the transla¬ tions of many of the inscriptions. Munro, Rev. H. A. J., M.A., Senior Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, HI. 3, 4, 5 ; VI. 2, 13 ; VII. 20; VIII. 7, 18. Nettleship, H., Esq., M A., Fellow and Tutor of Ch. Ch. College, Oxford, VII. 18 f. Nixon, J. E., Esq., M.A., Dean and Classical Lecturer of King’s College, Cambridge, VI. 3, 15 ; VII. if; VIII. 6, 9!, iof, 11, 14, 17!. *Paley, Prof. F. A., M.A., Classical Examiner to the London University, Editor of Aeschylus, Euripides , &c. &c., III. 7; V. 1—6 f; VI. if, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22 ; VII. if, 7, 15,1 19! ; VIII. if, 9f, iof, 12, 15, 19. Provost of Eton (Rev. C. O. Goodford, D.D.), VII. 5! ; VIII. if. Provost of King’s (Rev. Richard Okes, D.D.), VIII. if. Roberts, E. S., M.A., Fellow of Caius College, Cambridge, VI. 3 t; VII. 15 f ; VIII. 17L Sandys, J. E., M.A., Fellow and Tutor of St. John’s College, Cambridge, Classical Lecturer at Jesus College, and Public Orator of the University of Cambridge, VII. 8f, 15!, i8f, 19 f. Swete, Rev. H. B., B.D., Fellow of Caius College, Cambridge, II. 1-26. * These scholars have revised the majority of the inscriptions as thoroughly as the few hours left available by the exigencies of printing would allow. t The inscriptions against which a dagger is placed have been edited by more than one person. For the inscriptions not included in this table I am myself responsible. I am also responsible for the text in uncial characters of all the inscriptions, the whole of which were copied from the stones for the various contributors. Errata ct Corrigenda . For ‘ Sundries from Ephesus,’ p. 22, read ‘Inscriptions from the Peribolus Wall,’ &C. Nos. 2 and 3. Page 24, for ‘ when I commenced work,’ read ‘ where,’ &c. Page 30, for ‘ Falkner,’ read ‘ Falkener.’ For ‘ Iris,’ p. 31, read ‘ Isis.’ For ‘Sundries from Ephesus,’ pp. 39, 41, &c., read ‘ Inscriptions from the City and Suburbs.’ Page 47, for ‘Sundries,’ &c. read ‘ Inscriptions from the Odeum, No. 6.’ Page 52, for ‘ ten feet deep,’ read ‘ ten feet wide.’ Page 154, foot-note 1 , for ‘No. x,’ read ‘No. 3.’ Page 154, foot-note 1 , for ‘ No. 4,’ read ‘ No. 2.’ Page 188, for ‘female struggling with Hercules,’ read ‘ Herakles struggling with an Amazon.’ The plate opposite page 224 should have been lettered, Sculptured Drum No. 4, and the plate opposite page 238 should have been lettered, Sculptured Drum No. 5. Page 234, for ‘ to a line at a given distance of the pavement,’ read ‘ from the pavement.’ Page 239, foot-note, ‘see Plate.’ No illustration of these fragments was ultimately pre¬ pared, but they were similar in character to the subject of the plan facing page 214. Page 243 , for ‘ Palmak,’ read ‘ Parmak.’ Page 264, for ‘418 feet, 1 inch,’ read ‘418 feet, 1 j inch.’ Page 268, for ‘all the ordinary columns of the Peristyle,’ read ‘ all the ordinary outer columns,’ &c. Castle HILL 'fifty OF THE — Ruins oi WITH TH TEMPLE mosque AYASALOUK SITE OF THE of DIANA CEMETERY tooo /COO SACRED PRECINC' TEMPLE of DIANA SCALE, of feet ■ ~*ll i ■SWAMP Rive r CREEK MOHUMENT Cvi/bt/ iy' ct/txd /tnicnoCLUs FORUM GREAT THEATR C-Usl't/iYO/tedy cat £ WOO lTaC TORS MARKET PIWw^ flmwll '/s-J;; V/,/ Cixltw cote/ds Jj 0 / 71 x 1 ' mmsm iwf -L ,/ wmW' .•> 'VMyN. ^0 CHAPTER I. City of Ephesus—Temple of Artemis—City Port—Port Panormus—City Wall—Rock-cut Steps—Ancient Houses—Views from Mount Prion— Quicksilver—The Goddess Artemis—The Arts of Greece—Alexander— Antigonus—Lysimachus—Antiochus and the Seleucidae—-The Eumenidas — Embankment of River — Botago — Roman Conquest of Ephesus — Antony and Cleopatra—Augustus—Ephesus under the Romans—Anto¬ ninus Pius—Christian Churches—The Goths—Rock-cut Church—Decline of Ephesus—The Turks build Ayasalouk—Knights of St. John—Tamer¬ lane—-Desertion of Ephesus and Ayasalouk —Present Occupation— Tobacco—Beauty of Ephesus. The ancient city of Ephesus was situated on the river Cayster, which falls into the Bay of Scala Nova, on the western coast of Asia Minor. Of the origin and foundation of Ephesus we have no historical record. Stories were told which ascribed the settlement of the place to Androklos, the son of the Athenian king, Codrus, while other legends spoke of the Egyptian Sesostris as having carried his conquests into the Ephesian territory. With other Ionian cities of Asia Minor, Ephesus fell into the hands of Croesus, the last of the kings of Lydia, and, on the overthrow of Croesus by Cyrus, it passed under the heavier yoke of the Persian despot. Although B 2 City of Ephesus. 4 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Temple of Artemis. City Port. from that time, during a period of at least five centuries, to the conquest by the Romans, the city underwent great changes of fortune, it never lost its grandeur and im¬ portance. The Temple of Artemis (Diana), whose splendour has almost become proverbial, tended chiefly to make Ephesus the most attractive and notable of all the cities of Asia Minor. Its magnificent harbour was filled with Greek and Phenician merchantmen, and multitudes flocked from all parts to profit by its commerce, and to worship at the shrine of its tutelary goddess. The City Port was fully four miles from the sea, which has not, as has been supposed, receded far, if at all, from the ancient sea-bord. This fact is proved by the extensive remains of the massive stone embankment on the north bank of the river Cayster, which I suc¬ ceeded in tracing, without difficulty, to a distance within 400 yards of the present sea-bord. At the point where the river, changing its eastward course, turns abruptly to the north, a canal was cut, lead¬ ing direct to the City Port, which was snugly ensconced behind the rocky hill near the western extremity of Mount Prion. The form of the Port is clearly defined by the tall bullrushes which now cover nearly the whole area, leaving only a small patch of water on the south side, near the centre, which is always clear and fresh, being probably supplied by one of the numerous springs which abound at Ephesus. The bullrushes grow to the height of fifteen feet, and a beautiful yellow iris marks the - m * D O _l < CO < >- < Q z ID o ir o Ld m o L_ LJ I h- LlI _l Q_ O' C/D O < LJ d: o EPHESUS PROM VIEW OF EPHESUS AND AYASALOUK. THE CITY WALLS. 5 boundary of the port during a certain season of the year. Wild fowl have here a safe refuge from the sportsman. At the distance of little more than a mile from the sea, there was, I believe, another port, which, like the City Port, was an oblong with the corners cut off. If there ever was a Port Panormus at Ephesus, it must have been this haven, through which the river now runs obliquely from one end to the other, and which is remarkably well sheltered. But the Port Panormus mentioned by Strabo, and mistaken by some for a port at Ephesus, was, I be¬ lieve, situated between Neapolis and Pygela, and was, therefore, a few miles south of Ephesus. The city of Ephesus was built chiefly upon the slopes of two mountains, Prion and Coressus. The City Wall, which is said to have been built by Lysimachus, can even now be traced for nearly its whole length, as in its tor¬ tuous windings it follows the lofty and irregular ridge of Mount Prion, which bounds the city on the south side, and thence runs down westward to within a few yards of the mountain stream which falls into the Cayster near the canal. Then crossing the extremity of Mount Prion, and, returning eastward, it encloses the ancient fort, com¬ monly, but erroneously, called St. Paul’s Prison. From this point, dipping down the precipitous side of the rocky steep on which the fort stands, it runs to the edge of the canal near the City Port, and here was the gate through which the city was entered from the sea. The wall is again to be seen on the north side of the port, at the eastern extremity, being continued northward for a considerable distance ; then again turning east- Port Panormus City Wall DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. ward towards the Coressian gate, and skirting the moun¬ tain called Coressus, at some distance up the side, till it reaches the Magnesian gates, from which it makes a cir¬ cuit enclosing the large mound between these gates and Mount Prion. The remains of three other city gates, making in all six in number, may be seen distinctly in the mounds which mark their sites. One of them is near the western extremity of Mount Prion, and nearly opposite the fort called St. Paul’s Prison ; a second is in the plain on the north side of the city, and is not far from the Serapion, and a third is on Mount Coressus, where a path crosses it from east to west. No ruins of buildings remain Tower and Sally-Port CIRCUIT OF THE I VAILS. 7 on the eastern slope of Mount Coressus; but there appears to have been a large cemetery here, consisting chiefly of rock-cut tombs, some bearing short inscriptions, which are now much weather-worn and almost illegible. At the highest point of Mount Prion, 1,300 feet above the sea, a large area has been cleared and levelled. Here, I suppose, were the quarters for the garrison needed for the defence of the wall on this side of the city. I here found several large cisterns sunk in the rock, while at the eastern extremity of the mountain I came across the remains of a large earthenware water-pipe at a high level. The City Wall, to feet 6 inches in thickness, and mea¬ suring 36,000 feet in length, encloses an area equal to about 1,027 acres. It is fortified by massive loop-holed towers from 35 to 40 feet square, averaging about 100 feet apart, near to many of which are the remains of the stone steps which led up to the top of the walls and towers. These steps are 6 feet wide, and are slightly raised at the outer end, to serve the purpose of a balustrade. In 8 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Rock-cut steps. Ancient houses. View from Mount Prion. Quick¬ silver. suitable places, where the ground was favourable, were small sally-ports about 4 feet wide. Near the eastern extremity of Mount Prion, where the wall is abruptly terminated by a precipice, may be seen some rock-cut steps, leading up to the walls, which must have been used by the soldiery more than 2,000 years ago. Not a few substructures of the houses of ancient Ephesus still remain in terrace above terrace upon the northern slope of Mount Prion. These were doubtless delightfully cool during the summer, but cold in winter. The summit of Mount Prion commands a very beau¬ tiful and extensive view. The river Cayster, winding like a white ribbon through the plain, forms in its course numerous small peninsulse. The Selenusian lakes ; the village and castle on the hill at Ayasalouk; the bay of Scala Nova (the ancient Neapolis) ; the moun¬ tainous island of Samos, and the still more mountainous coast beyond ; the snow-capped Tmolus to the north, and the ruined city, mapped out at the feet of the spectator ; these, with countless other objects of interest, seen through the lustrous atmosphere of Asia Minor, make up a panorama of exquisite beauty. Ancient Ephesus is now completely deserted ; but enough remains of the public buildings to convey to the visitor some idea of the former splendour and magnificence of the city. Vitruvius de¬ scribes the Cilbian fields of Ephesus as yielding vermilion and quicksilver, but the situation of these mines is not known in the present day. The traditional birthplace of the goddess Artemis ERA OF PROSPERITY. 9 was in the Ephesian territory, and is described by Strabo as a thick wood, through which ran the river Cenchrius, at the base of the Solmissian hill. The wood, the river, and the mountain were most probably near the site after¬ wards selected for the great Temple. This site is now proved to have been to the north-east of the city, and almost a mile from its nearest gate. During the generations which immediately followed the conquest of Lydia and the rest of Asia Minor by the Persian kings, the arts of Greece attained their highest perfection, and it was within this short period of little more than two centuries that the great Temple of Artemis was three times built upon the same site, and, as recent re¬ searches have found, each time on the same grand scale. It is said that when Alexander the Great first visited Ephesus, he offered to complete at his own cost the Temple then building, if the Ephesians would allow him to dedicate it in his own name to Artemis. His request, it is said, was refused in an answer which, though it may have betrayed the fear of offending the conqueror, showed great tact, ‘ It is not fitting that one god should build a temple to another god.’ That Alexander succeeded better with the people of Priene, is proved by the dedicatory inscription of the Temple of that city, found by Mr. R. Popplewell Pullan, and now placed with other remains of that Temple in the British Museum. After the death of Alexander, b.c. 323, Ephesus was taken by Antigonus, who put a garrison here as in other cities of Asia Minor. Antigonus appears to have been The Goddess Artemis. The arts of Greece. Alexander the Great. Anti ■ gonus. IO DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Lysi- machus. Antiochus and the Seleucidce. The Eu- menidse. Embank¬ ment of river. Botago. far too much engaged in making conquests in Syria and Egypt, where his victories followed each other in rapid succession, to retain possession of the Ephesian territory. He neglected therefore the necessary precautions which he should have taken against the stratagems of equally ambitious generals, and the oligarchy, which had been appointed to govern Ephesus, treacherously opened the gates to Lysimachus. During the century between the years 323 and 223 B.C., Ephesus was subject to Antigonus, Lysimachus, Antiochus Soter, Antiochus Theos, and the Seleucidae. In the year 223 b.c. Antiochus the Great became King of Syria and Asia, and Ephesus paid tribute to him till his death, b.c. 187. Ephesus then fell successively into the hands of the Kings of Pergamus, Eumenes, Attains II., and Attalus III. It was during the reign of Attalus II. that an engineer made the grievous mistake of narrowing the wide mouth of the River Cayster, by embanking it on the north side, and by building a mole on that side along the sea¬ shore. These constructions, it was thought, would increase the scour of the river near its mouth, but they had a contrary effect. In course of time the port was silted up, and to this circumstance the decline of Ephesus may in great part be traced. At the present day a few small huts near the mouth of the river shelter the fishermen and their families who are engaged in the preparation of Botago, a delicacy made from the roe of the gray mullet, a fish that abounds in the Cayster, and there attains an enormous size. EPHESUS UNDER THE EMPIRE. The Romans were determined to possess themselves of Ephesus, but the Ephesians struggled obstinately for their independence, and revolted in favour of Mithridates. They were, however, ultimately subdued by the Romans under Antony, b.c. 41. The luxurious life led by Antony at Ephesus, where he was joined by Cleopatra, may have affected injuriously the prosperity of the city ; but with the peace which it enjoyed in common with other cities of Asia Minor under the Roman Empire, her commerce and riches must have rapidly increased, in spite of the heavy tribute which she had to pay to her new masters. It can scarcely be doubted that Augustus, who con¬ fined the bounds of the Temple precinct, or Temenos, within narrower limits, began the erection of large public buildings, many of which were probably completed by Tiberius after the severe earthquakes which destroyed so many cities in his time. Indeed, under the Roman dominion all the public buildings, including the theatres and Gymnasia, must have been erected ; the foundations of ancient Greek structures being probably allowed to remain wherever they could be utilised. But the small amount of Greek masonry which has been found in excavations in the city, proves how recklessly the Romans destroyed the works of other hands than their own. Under Antoninus Pius a great portion of the city near the Odeum was rebuilt. It is not unlikely that some Christian churches were 11 Roman conquest of Ephe¬ sus. Antony and Cleopatra. Augustus. Ephesus under the Romans. Antoninus Pius. 12 Christian churches. i The Goths. Rock-cut church. Decline of Ephesus. The Turks build Aya- salouk. Knights of St. John. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. built within the city before the Temple was finally destroyed. The Goths under several leaders sacked the city a.d. 262, and set fire to the Temple, which could not have existed many years after that date. Towards the latter end of the third century, the Christians, actuated by the religious zeal which in later days was to rouse the Turks to their career of conquest, exerted themselves to extirpate the worship of the heathen goddess by the utter destruction of the Temple, and probably also by the persecution of her worshippers. Churches were dedicated at Ephesus to St. John, St. Mark, and St. Luke. There is also on the east side of Mount Coressus, a church near the cleft in the rock called the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, which is said to have been dedicated to them. The walls are cut out of the solid rock, and the groined roof is of stone and plastered. With the decline of its commerce, and the destruction of the Temple, the importance of Ephesus was gradually lessened, and for many centuries we know little of its history. The city probably fell not unfrequently into the hands of adventurers. Among these we hear of a Greek pirate in the eleventh century. Two centuries later the Turks had possession of the city, and built a considerable town at Ayasalouk, where the great Mosque still stands with many small mosques, baths, and tombs. This town, with Ephesus itself, fell into the hands of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who struck some coins at Ayasalouk a.d. 1365. TURKISH AND TARTAR INROADS. i3 Timour the Tartar, commonly called Tamerlane, obtained possession of Ayasalouk a.d. 1402. Ephesus was then only a suburb, but he was too great a conqueror to hold for any long time a place which had become so insignificant, and the Turks regaining possession, thence¬ forth retained it. The ancient city of Ephesus was by degrees deserted, and the Turkish town at Ayasalouk seems also to have Tamer¬ lane. 14 Desertion of Ephesus and Aya- salouk. Present occupa¬ tion. Tobacco. Beauty of Ephesus. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. fallen gradually into decay. The great Mosque itself is now roofless, and some of the small mosques are used as granaries by the villagers and cultivators of the neighbour¬ ing fields. The cause of the decay is to be found in the malaria from the marshes near the River Cayster. As this malaria increased from year to year, the inhabitants deserted not only Ephesus, but Ayasalouk, and about two centuries ago took up their abode in the modern village of Kirkenjee, on the mountain range bounding the east side of the plain. At the present time there are at Ayasalouk a few caffigees and bakals (coffee-house keepers and provision dealers), whose numbers were largely multiplied while the excavations were in progress. But although there are many small houses and huts at Ayasalouk, there are not more than twenty regular inhabitants, the houses being occupied only during the sowing and harvest time by the people from Kirkenjee, who cultivate the land in the plain of Ephesus and now grow tobacco amongst the ruins of the ancient city. This tobacco has acquired a great reputation for its fine quality, and for several years it obtained a high price in Smyrna. I have lately been told that the quality was deteriorated. The great beauty of Ephesus can scarcely be exagger¬ ated, surrounded as it is with mountains which, with their broken forms, exhibit in every direction a varied and picturesque sky-line. The numerous quarries, with their upright sides and jagged edges, and the wild, varying- coloured vegetation changing with the seasons, add much to the effect of the scene. In the spring of the year the BEAUTY OF THE EPHESIAN LANDSCAPE. 15 angelica, with its bright yellow blossom, covers Mount Coressus, making it most prominent in the landscape from every point of view. Although my sojourn there was extended over the greater part of eleven years, I never became weary of the scenery by which I was surrounded, for the mountains on which my eyes daily rested changed from hour to hour, as the sun travelled on in its course, and the desolation of the place was fully compensated by its constant and never-ceasing loveliness. i6 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. CHAPTER II. Excavations at Ephesus Commenced—Terms of Firman—Ancient Writers —Portico of Damianus—Modern Porticoes—Excavations west of the City—Difficulties—Accident—Great Gymnasium—St. Sophia—Conjec¬ tures of Travellers—Fish Market—Oyster Shells—Baptismal Font—A Dreamer—A Marble Hall—Narrow Escape—Silting up—Trial Holes and Trenches—Christian Tombs—Suspension of Excavations by the Turks—The Consul’s Joke—Gold in Statues—Discoveries—Discourage¬ ment—Bas-reliefs at Venice—Application for Grant—Death of Mr. Blunt —Miscellaneous Antiquities—Interesting Inscription. Excava¬ tions at Ephesus com¬ menced. Terms of Firman. In the month of May 1863, having obtained a firman from the Turkish Government, through the influence of the trustees of the British Museum, I commenced my excavations at Ephesus in search of the long-lost Temple of Artemis. I was authorised by my firman to excavate at Ephe¬ sus and Colophon, in search of antiquities, for twelve months, and to export whatever antiquities I might find, leaving all duplicates for the Turkish Government; but I was obliged to obtain the consent of the owners or occu¬ piers of the land in which I desired to excavate, and this condition alone involved many hindrances to the work of exploration. My firman had to be renewed from year to year, if required for more than twelve months ; and the ACCOUNTS OF ANCIENT WRITERS. i i difficulties which I afterwards experienced in obtaining its renewal in due time, caused, not unfrequently, great delay and inconvenience. As I had, in my agreement with the trustees, under¬ taken to begin the work at my own expense, I was natu¬ rally anxious to spend as small a sum as possible in what might truly be called tentative excavations. I therefore engaged in the first instance only a small gang of work¬ men. I had read all that is extant by ancient writers about Ephesus and its famous Temple, which was accounted one of the seven wonders of the ancient world ; but their vague and apparently conflicting statements gave me very little, if any, information on which I could depend. It was evident that nothing short of a most laborious and persevering course of tentative excavations would be likely to bring to light the remains of a building of which no sign remained above the present surface of the ground, and which had been hidden for so many centuries. The vague notices of the Temple and its site by ancient writers, will show how slight a clue they afforded me to its actual position, and how extremely scanty was the information which I derived, even by the most careful deductions and inferences, from their statements, to guide me in commencing my excavations in search of its remains. Strabo 1 says that the last Temple was built on the foundations of the old one burnt by Hero- Ancient writers. Strabo. 1 Ch. xiv. 640. C i8 Xenophon. Pliny. Diogenes Laertius. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. stratus. Indeed, the interior and the roof alone seem to have been burnt, the columns, or a great portion of them, having been preserved. Hence there are not two sites, but one, and the testimony of more modern authors applies simply to the site spoken of by writers who lived before Herostratus. Xenophon says 1 —* At Ephesus, the river Selinus runs past the Temple of Artemis, and there are fish and shells in it.’ This testimony is confirmed by Strabo in almost the same words (viii. p. 387). Xenophon speaks of the old Temple, Strabo of the new, and both were eye-witnesses. Pliny 2 tells us—‘ There is in the city a fountain called Callippia, and there are two rivers called Selinus, surrounding the Temple from different quarters.’ Whether Pliny ever visited Ephesus, we can scarcely say ; nor can much stress be laid on his statements about the two rivers Selinus ; but, as he wrote in the reign of Titus, he must have referred to the Temple which replaced the one burnt by Herostratus. Reference to the General Plan will show the position I have given to the rivers Selinus and Cenchrius coming from different parts, and, in a manner, surrounding the Temple. Pliny 3 again says—‘They built the Temple in a marshy soil, in order that it should not suffer from the earthquakes, nor be exposed to cracks.’ The site of the Temple must therefore be sought for in the low ground. Diogenes Laertius 4 also says—‘ The spot on which the 1 A nab. v. 3, 8. 3 Hist. Nat. xxxvi. 21. * Hist. Nat. v. 31. 4 I. viii. 19. STATEMENTS OF VITFUV 1 US AND STRABO. 19 Temple was built was very moistand he thus confirms the statement of Pliny. From Vitruvius 1 we learn that ‘ when Chersiphron, the architect, was about to convey to the Temple of Diana the shafts of the columns, he could not employ waggons on account of the magnitude of the load, and the soft¬ ness of the roads, which led over flat fields ; but he con¬ trived mechanical means for the transport of the columns and heavy blocks of marble, which might not have an¬ swered had not the distance been small, for, from the quarries to the Temple, the distance is not more than 8,000 feet, and there is no hill, but one continual flat.’ This description of Vitruvius merely confirms the testimony of Strabo and Pliny, that the Temple was built on low ground ; but the distance which he gives between the quarries and the Temple site is not to be relied on as correct; and, even if it were, where are the quarries ? Certainly not on Mount Coressus, as has been supposed, for there is no white marble quarry there. Strabo 2 asserts that ‘ the Ephesians dwelt around the present Temple till the time of Alexander, but when Lysimachus surrounded with walls the site of the present town, the inhabitants were unwilling to change their abode. So he waited for a day of very heavy rain, and then by stopping up the sewers, flooded the town. The inhabitants were now glad to remove from the vicinity of the Temple.’ In another paragraph Strabo tells us, ‘ The Temple has the right of sanctuary to the present day, but the boundaries of the sanctuary have varied at different 1 x. 2-11. 2 xiv. 640. Vitruvius. Sjtrabo. 20 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Pausanias. times. Alexander extended them to a stadium (600 feet), Mithridates shot an arrow from the corner of the roof, and is said to have shot it a little beyond a stadium. Antony doubled the distance, and thus included within the right of sanctuary a certain portion of the city; but this ordinance put the city at the mercy of the malefactors, so that Caesar Augustus cancelled it.’ From this it appeared that the Temple could not be much more than a stadium from the city ; and this passage misled me, and prevented my entertaining the idea of searching for the Temple at a much greater distance when I first commenced the excavations. But even now that the site of the Temple is discovered, it is difficult, if not impossible, to reconcile this statement of Strabo with ascertained facts. Part of the peribolus wall, which has been discovered, might have been the wall built by Antony, as that portion of it which intervenes between the Temple and the walls of the city, at the near¬ est point, would be something more than two stadia from the south-west angle of the Temple. Pausanias 1 informs us that ‘ the Ephesians buried Androklos in their territory, where the tomb is shown down to my time. It lies on the road which leads from the Temple past the Olympium, and to the Magnesian gate.’ Pausanias, thus writing about the middle of the second century after Christ, and having been an eye¬ witness, here gives us some valuable information, the truth of which was confirmed by the discovery of the tomb itself, in the position described by him. 1 vii. 2-6. STOA OF DAMIANUS. Philostratus 1 writes that ‘ Damianus, a rich Roman, joined the Temple to the city, having stretched out, or extended, towards it the road which descends through the Magnesian gates; and this road is a stoa (covered way,) extending to the length of a stadium (600 feet), and built entirely of stone. The object of the building was that the priests should not be kept away from the Temple whenever it rained. This road Damianus inscribed with the name of his wife.’ This description of the Stoa of Damianus, who lived in the time of Marcus Aurelius, appeared to be the best guide for finding the Temple. All that seemed to be necessary was to find the Magnesian gate, and to follow the road from it to the Temple; but in studying the ground where the Magnesian gate was likely to be, and looking thence outside the city, I could see no probable site for the Temple within even a few stadia of the gate, much less at the distance of one stadium only, which ap¬ peared to be the length of the Stoa. The Xenophon who lived about the end of the fourth century after Christ, and long after the destruction of the Temple, tells us that from the city to the Temple there were seven stadia. 2 This appears to contradict the testi¬ mony of the earlier writers ; but the excavations have proved the truth of his statement. Strabo 3 again says—‘ Then comes the town of Pygela, then the harbour called Panormus, possessing a temple of the Ephesian Artemis, and then the city.’ This passage 21 Philo¬ stratus. 1 Vitce Sophist. II. 23. 2 Ephesiaca, I. 194. 22 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Strabo. Portico of Damianus.! I quote chiefly because it has been misunderstood. The port Panormus here mentioned is between Pygela and Ephesus, and the temple of Artemis was a small temple close to that port, and not the great Temple at Ephesus, which would certainly not have been described by Strabo as a temple of the Ephesian Artemis. No reference to a port near the temple of Artemis is made by any ancient writer that I am aware of, but there was probably an ornamental basin or small port in front of the Temple, which was approached by means of the canals which are described in the inscriptions found in the peribolus wall, and which evidently ran side by side with the roads. For confirmation of this opinion see Appendix, Sundries from Ephesus, No. 20. Now that the Temple is found, we know what to reject of the testimony here quoted ; but they who take into consideration the data given, will acknowledge that a very difficult problem had to be solved, when they reflect that the funds placed at my disposal for the search did not enable me to employ an exhaustive system, and that it was necessary to take the fullest possible advantage of circumstances as they occurred in the course of the explo¬ ration. In my perplexity I chose Strabo, Pausanias, and Philostratus as my best guides of all ancient writers, because they had been eye-witnesses of the things they described. Of these three, Philostratus appeared to give the most valuable information as to the probable site of the Temple, in his description of the stoa, or portico, built by Damianus. STONE PORTICOES. 23 It seemed, then, that the Portico of Damianus was only 600 feet long, and that if I could find it, I had merely to follow it for that distance from the city, and I must inevitably find the Temenos of the Temple. A portico, similar to this of Damianus at Ephesus has been built in modern times at Bologna, by voluntary contributions, to connect the city with the church of the Madonna di San Luca, and to protect processions from sun and rain. The church of Santa Maria del Monte, surmounting Monte Berico, near Vicenza, is also nearly connected with the city by a continuous portico, more than half-a-mile in length. On arriving at Ephesus, and studying the ground in every direction outside the city, I found a long strip of land standing several feet above the general level of the plain between the city and the sea. At the western end of this strip an open space is reached, which would have been of all others the best possible site for the Temple. There it would have been a most conspicuous and beau¬ tiful object from nearly every house in the city, as well as from the suburbs, and from the sea. Reference to the general plan will at once show the numerous advantages of this site. So great, indeed, are they, that I lingered about this spot, and looked about me, though in vain, for a pro¬ mising mound. Seeing none, I sank some trial holes in the highest land I could find. At the same time I tried some cross trenches in the strip of land in search of the Portico of Damianus ; but in none of them did I find anything except the substructures of some monuments Modern Porticoes. Excava¬ tions west of the city. 24 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Diffi¬ culties. and tombs, and the thin brick walling of Roman and Byzantine buildings. The excavations were undertaken under many disad¬ vantages. They were begun in May, when the hot sea¬ son sets in, and when, as I afterwards learnt, they must be suspended. The spot where I began operations was more than three miles from the village of Ayasalouk ; and my workmen had to walk this distance for their daily supply of food. They lived at that time in a tent, which was kindly supplied by the Turkish military authorities at Smyrna. When the excavations were first begun I had only five Turkish workmen, whom I found unemployed at the station at Ayasalouk on the first day of my arrival. These men, who had just been discharged by the railway officials, I at once engaged. Shouldering their picks and shovels, with their bread and water for the day, they fol¬ lowed me down to the open plain beyond the ruins of the city. Turks have the reputation of being very grave and sedate, and so they are generally ; but of these five men, one was a jester, and he kept the others in roars of laughter, till our arrival at the place, when I commenced work. I had at that time no house at Ephesus, but lived alone at the hotel at Boudjah, a village a few miles from Smyrna. I had to walk a mile and a half to meet the train, which started from Smyrna at six o’clock in the morning, and took me up at Paradise station. The fifty miles between Smyrna and Ayasalouk occupied nearly three hours and a half, There were no first-class carriages EX CA VA 770NS COMMENCED. at that time on the Smyrna and Aidin railway, and the second-class carriages had no sun-blinds. The six hours and a half which elapsed between the arrival of the train at Ayasalouk and its return in the afternoon, I spent in walking to and from the place where my men at that time were working, in searching about the plain and studying the ground, and superintending the workmen. Often I took to digging, myself, during the men’s dinner hour, as well as at other times, when I was impatient at the slow movements of the men, or their unskilful mode of going to work. I had further to take notes and measure¬ ments, and make drawings of everything that was found. Then there was the return journey by railway, and the walk home. I was sometimes so over-excited by the hard day’s work, that I ran most of the distance between the station and the village. The whole day's work occu¬ pied between fourteen and fifteen hours. A few months after I had begun the excavations, the use of a room at Ayasalouk was offered to me by Mr. Frederick Whittall, the goods manager of the Smyrna and Aidin railway, who was about to occupy better quar¬ ters at Aidin. The room was approached by a rickety external staircase, and the entrance door opened from the terrace roof of a stable. The whole tenement was so dilapidated that it threatened to tumble down when¬ ever I walked across the room. It did fall down soon after I had left it for the chalet which I afterwards occu¬ pied in the Ephesus pass. The landlord of my room at Ayasalouk, an Armenian who lived at Scala Nova, did not trouble himself to come or send for the rent, which 26 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Accident. must have become due after the expiration of Mr. Whit- tall’s term. I therefore never saw him, but I was after¬ wards told that he had complained of my having taken possession without his sanction. As I could not afford to increase the number of my workmen beyond eighteen or twenty, the work of explo¬ ration proceeded very slowly, and more than five months passed before I felt quite satisfied that the site of the Temple was not to be found between the city and the sea. I had approached nearer to the city, and had even tried a large mound on the north side of the City Port, as well as a considerable tract of land to the north of the city. The excavations had been very much impeded by an accident, which prevented my visiting Ephesus during the month of September. This accident befell me in the cause of science. I had promised Dr. Birch, of the British Museum, before I left England, that I would try to obtain a cast, or a copy of some kind, of the bas- relief of Sesostris, which is carved on the perpendicular face of a white marble rock at Ninfi. I found that the cast was impracticable, but I made a careful drawing from measurements of every part, and returning home alone at night, I missed my road. My horse fell with me into a dry ditch ; my collar bone was broken by the fall, and I was otherwise injured. During the month of September I was confined to the house by this accident, and that month proved the hottest of the whole year. I was obliged, during my absence from the works at Ephesus, to depute others to look after HINDRANCES TO WORK. 27 my workmen there. Little was done ; but for this the unusual heat of that month may in part account On resuming my visits to Ephesus, I sank a number of trial holes to the north of the city, in every place where I thought the Temple might have stood, and further explored Great Gymna the foundations of the Great Gymnasium at the head of sium. The Great Gymnasium. the City Port. I found that the Romans had there made use of the foundations, and part of the superstructure of a large Greek building, which was probably of a similar character. Our woodcut represents a small portion of the building, where the Roman masonry is most con- 28 St. Sophia. Conjec¬ tures of travellers. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS spicuous. Here, prostrate on the ground, are some shafts of columns of Egyptian syenite. Some of these shafts were used by the Turks in building their large mosque at Ayasalouk; others appear to have been conveyed to Constantinople, and raised up in the mosque of St. Sophia, where they are now pointed out to visitors as columns from the temple of Diana, which, at the time they were taken from Ephesus, they were no doubt be¬ lieved to be. Whether these columns were taken to Constantinople as early as the sixth century, when St. Sophia was built, or at a later period, must remain a matter of doubt. In the latter case they might have been substituted for the original columns of the building. Under any circumstances they should never have been mistaken for columns from the Temple ; these, according to distinct statements of ancient writers, being of white marble from the neighbouring quarries. Dr. Chandler and other travellers have thought that the Great Gymnasium was either the Temple itself, or that it had been raised upon the foundations of the Temple. Independent of the facts now brought to light by the ex¬ cavations, the Great Gymnasium must have existed con¬ temporaneously with the last Temple for nearly three centuries. The underground passages of the Great Gym¬ nasium are sometimes explored by visitors and others to a certain extent. They are chiefly choked up with the debris of the building, and with sand which has been washed in b.y the floods during many centuries. The natives tell strange stories about the extent of these pas¬ sages, affirming that they have followed them for miles ; THE GREAT GYMNASIUM. and they believe that one is continued all the way to Smyrna! I explored these passages myself in every direction, as far as it was possible to wriggle through them, and I found that none of them extended be¬ yond the building itself. The stories of the natives may Wing of Great Gymnasium be partly accounted for by the fact, that all subterraneous or dark passages, like those of the Great Gymnasium, always appear to be much longer than they really are. Mr. Edward Falkner, in his book on Ephesus and the Temple of Diana, has published plans of the Great Gymnasium and other buildings in the city. My own 29 3° DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. plans of these buildings differ so slightly in one or two particulars from those of Mr. Falkner, that I have not thought it necessary to repeat their publication here. Mr. Falkner has also, in his general plan of the city, shown what he conceived might have been the disposition of the numerous porticoes around the Forum, and con¬ necting the various buildings of the city. I have merely indicated the positions of the buildings themselves, and have shown, as nearly as I can by means of a plan, the present state of the ruins of the city. The building which I have ventured to designate the Prytaneum, is situated where such a building might have been placed, viz., on the south side of the Forum, which was bounded on all sides by important public buildings. There are many remains of Byzantine buildings which are in a much more ruinous state than the more ancient Roman buildings at Ephesus. As they were built of brick and small stones, the walling has crumbled away, and the debris served in a great measure to raise the surface of the ground, and to make the stony ground which is peculiar to the ruined cities of Asia Minor. At the same time that I explored the Great Gymna¬ sium, I had men at work on all sides of the City Port. On the north side the ground stands at a considerable height above the plain, and appeared to cover some im¬ portant buildings. I opened therefore in this place many wide and deep trenches, but I found nothing but Byzan¬ tine walls. On this high ground my workmen pitched their tents, and they were now much better situated than DISCO VERIES. 3 T before, as they were in the immediate vicinity of an ex¬ cellent spring of water, and were quite a mile nearer the village of Ayasalouk. On exploring the low ground on the south side of the City Port, I found the shaft of a small marble column, inscribed with a dedication by a woman named Cominia Junia to Iris, the Emperor Antoninus Pius, the city of Ephesus, and the directors of the Custom House. Near this spot, probably, was situated the fish-market of the ancient Ephesians. The city of Ephesus is styled in this inscription, the great metropolis of Asia, and Neokoros, the title given to cities where a temple has been built, and dedicated to the patron god or goddess. The word means, literally, tem¬ ple sweeper or temple-keeper. 1 On the north side of the City Port, and at its extreme end, I found upon a thin white marble pavement, 12 feet below the surface, immense quantities of oyster shells, upon which the ancient Ephesians had evidently feasted. Digging in the Forum, I found, on the east side, what I believe to have been a baptismal font, a large basin, 15 feet in diameter, raised upon a pedestal; the basin consisting of one solid mass of breccia. This, I presume, was used in early Christian times (beginning probably with the latter end of the third century) for the public baptism, in large groups, of converts to Christianity. It is so formed that a full-grown person might, with¬ out difficulty, climb over its smooth, rounded edge, and Fish market. Oyster shells. Baptismal font. i 1 See Prof. Donaldson’s Architectura Numismatica. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS stand in water 9 inches deep, while the baptiser could stand dryshod in the centre, which was apparently raised for that purpose. A water-pipe and the remains of a reservoir were found near the font. There is no hole in the centre of the basin, as there must have been had it been a fountain. A basin similar to this has been de¬ scribed as having been formerly in use in or near the Temple of Artemis, and this may be the one now found in the Forum. Baptismal Font in Forum. If I am correct in my conjecture as to the use of this basin, not only is no support given to the assertion that the early Christians always baptized by total immersion, but the hypothesis seems to fall to the ground. Probably the mode of administering this sacrament may have varied to suit different circumstances. When I first began my excavations I used to wander about the plain seeking for mounds or other indication of BURIED TREASURES. 33 the site of the great Temple. In so doing I encountered all sorts of people, who were often of an unprepossessing appearance. One day a tall, earnest-looking Greek overtook me, and eagerly asked me if I would consent to dig, or allow him to do so under the protection of my firman, in certain places which he would point out to me. He had dreamt, he said, of treasure which lay buried many feet under ground, and he had distinctly seen in his dreams certain subterraneous passages, which led to the door of the chamber containing the treasure. I refused to dig myself on this man’s account; but as I had some hope of his striking accidentally upon the wall of some building, or hitting upon some inscription of interest, I so far humoured this dreamer of dreams as to promise him the protection of my firman, in any excavations he might make amongst the ruins of Ephesus, which should be subject to my control or approval, though not at my own expense. With this understanding he set a few men to work, and sank a number of shallow trial holes about the Serapion and elsewhere in the city, thus betraying the fact that his dreams had not clearly defined the situation of the treasure. The workmen employed by him were paid by a silly, superstitious Greek merchant of Smyrna, who probably thought he had a chance of enriching himself more readily by treasure-trove at Ephesus, than by plodding on steadily at his business in Smyrna. Nothing, however, was found to reward the fond expectations of the dreamer and his merchant friend, nor did I gain myself any advantage by the holes dug in search of the hidden A dreamer. U 34 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. A marble hall. Narrow escape. treasure. When finally the Smyrna merchant became tired of making such unprofitable advances, he did his best, at first by persuasion, and afterwards by threats, to make me pay the whole sum he had disbursed on this fruitless enterprise. I need scarcely say that he was as unsuccess¬ ful in this as he had been in his foolish speculation. There is doubtless all over Asia Minor, a great quantity of hidden treasure which has been thrown down wells, or buried hastily by the inhabitants of towns and villages when attacked by enemies. In peaceful times, also, treasure was probably often buried for the sake of safety from thieves ; and from time to time such treasure is found by accident in gardens and cemeteries. On exploring the ground in the Forum in front of the great Gymnasium, I found a large Hall, the walls of which were built of brick, and lined with what has recently been designated as ‘ marble veneering.’ Small columns of marble, and niches for statues, adorned it on every side. Amongst the debris were found small marble statuettes of Aphrodite and Hermes (Venus and Mercury). As the exploration was not continued beyond the limits of this single chamber, it is impossible to say, with any degree of certainty, to what building it belonged. It is to be hoped that one day the whole of the Forum will be explored and its riches brought to light. It was while the workmen were employed in clearing out this Hall, that I had my first warning to be more careful than I had hitherto been. I had been in the habit of going down into all the trial holes without hesitation, but one day, on approaching this particular excavation, I SILTING UP OF THE PLAIN. 35 paused for a moment. As I did so, the whole fell in with a tremendous crash, the debris consisting of large bricks which had formed part of the vaulting of the chamber. From that day I became more careful in the method of sinking trial holes, for my own sake as well as for that of my workmen. In the course of the explorations which I made outside the city, I found that the whole plain of Ephesus had Silting up. been silted up to the average height of 12 feet within the last fifteen centuries. By the close of the year 1863, I had dug seventy-five deep holes, which the land-owners or occupiers called upon me to fill up. I had also dug many other trial holes, and many long trenches in mounds, which it was necessary to cut through without interruption. Some of these had been filled up as they were abandoned, but the majority were at that time left open in case it should be D 2 Trial holes and trenches. 3 6 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Christian tombs. necessary to re-examine or enlarge them. The trial holes were about 8 feet by 12 feet, and were invariably carried down with almost perpendicular sides, until we reached the natural soil, pavement, or the foundations of walling. The depth of the holes so dug varied from 12 to 25 feet. I had also sunk a number of trial holes at Ayasalouk on the hill, as well as on the low ground. On the former I found some interesting early Christian tombs, one of which had an inscription. I also found on the east side of the hill, near the tombs, some rough but highly glazed mosaic, with some plaster from a wall which is, probably, of the fifth century. One of the occupiers of the land on the west side of the hill objected to my digging a hole in his field, and summoned the Mudir INTERRUPTION TO WORK. 37 and the elders of the village to examine the terms of my firman. They therefore assembled in one of the wretched huts which they called the ‘ konak,’ and I attended the conference by invitation. The firman was read aloud by the clerk of the Custom-House, and it was then ascertained that I was obliged to obtain the consent of the owners or occupiers before I could dig in their land. The man who had objected adhered to his resolution not to allow me to continue digging in his field, and I was therefore obliged to fill up the hole I had commenced, and dig in the adjoining field, the owner of which was more obliging. The next vexatious stoppage of my excavations by the Turkish authorities, occurred early in January 1864. Rechad Bey, who was then the Turkish Commissioner for the Ottoman railway from Smyrna to Aidin, and who was also appointed to watch my proceedings on behalf of the Turkish Government, was persuaded by the Greek who had dreamt of hidden treasure, to forestall me in its discovery at the great Gymnasium, the foundations of which building I was then exploring. Rechad Bey was superstitious enough to listen to the man’s story, and became quite eager to discover the treasure. He exerted his influence with the Pasha of Smyrna, who, to oblige him, consented to suspend my excavations till the Bey, finding nothing whatever, had convinced himself of the folly of digging for treasure at Ephesus. He did not, however, draw off his workmen till they had nearly filled up one of my trenches. I was then allowed to resume my excavations, and, after a vain endeavour to obtain Suspen¬ sion of ex¬ cavations by the Turks. 38 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. The Consul’s joke. Gold in statues. redress for the damage done to my works, I was obliged to re-open the trench at my own expense. Mr. Charles Blunt, who was then British Consul at Smyrna, in writing to inform me that the difficulties re¬ specting my excavations had been removed, and that I might resume them whenever I pleased, humorously went on to say, that the Pasha of Smyrna merely requested that when I found the Temple of Diana in duplicate I would, perhaps, be good enough to inform him of it. Mr. Blunt here referred satirically to the advantageous terms of my firman, which authorised me to export all antiquities not found in duplicate. There used to be a very prevalent notion amongst the Turks in Asia Minor, that there was not only much hid¬ den treasure below the surface of the earth, in wells and elsewhere, 'but that even marble statues might contain gold. This belief has perhaps caused more destruction of beautiful sculpture than any other motive, and it is only within the last few years that the Turks have found it to be a much better speculation to sell statues than to break them to pieces in the hope of finding gold. The religion of the Turk causes him to abhor images, and the consequent destruction of statues may have given rise to the common belief that they broke them in search of gold. The inclement weather which prevailed during the months of January and February 1864 was very un¬ favourable for the energetic continuance of the explora¬ tions. Very little, therefore, was done at Ephesus during these months. A few Greek inscriptions were found, the THE SEARCH FOR A CL UE. 39 text of which is given in the Appendix , 1 together with the remains of a Roman fountain, composed of three arched recesses, on the south side of the mound, near the stadium on which the Serapion was built. My search for the Portico of Damianus had hitherto been quite unsuccessful, and it appeared that I had made little or no progress towards the solution of the difficult problem, or the completion of my task, unless, indeed, the system of discovery by exhaustion could be so far taken into account. I had also spent as much time and money as my circumstances would permit. It seemed, then, that I must either obtain a grant of money, or subscriptions, to continue the excavations, or I must abandon them for a time, if not altogether. But on what pretence could I apply to the trustees of the British Museum, or to the Treasury, for assistance at that time ? In my perplexity I remembered that I had, years before, seen at Venice a church, the front of which was decorated with pilasters on pedestals, upon which pedestals were carved, if I remember rightly, the plans of Cyprus, Rhodes, and two other cities. It then occurred to me that, although I might not find in any of the ruins of the public buildings in the city of Ephesus, similar bas-reliefs, there was just a chance of finding some idle scratching, which might indicate the direction, if not the exact position, of the Temple in reference to the city ; or, if not even this, I might, perhaps find some inscription, giving me a clue to its site. This idea, fanciful as it may seem, occurred to me Discove ries. Dis¬ courage¬ ment. Bas-reliefs at Venice. 1 Sundries from Ephesus. 4 ° Applica¬ tion for grant. 1 Death of I Mr. Blunt. Miscella¬ neous an¬ tiquities. Interesting inscrip¬ tion. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. repeatedly, until I felt convinced that to explore some of the public buildings in the city was the next piece of work to be done. The great Theatre, and the Odeum, or Lyric Theatre, seemed the most likely buildings to commence with, especially as in them would most pro¬ bably be found sculpture and inscriptions, which would encourage the trustees of the British Museum to recom¬ mend the necessary advances for the excavations. I applied, therefore, to the trustees, in the first instance, for the small sum of ioo/., to commence the exploration of the ruins of the great Theatre. The grant was voted, not, however, to explore the great Theatre, but the Odeum. I was greatly disappointed, but as the advance was made for a specific purpose, I had no alternative but to bow to the decision of the trustees, and to carry out the instructions which accompanied the grant. By the death of Mr. Consul Blunt, which took place on March 3, 1864, I lost a friend, who, in the cause of science, fought several battles for me with the Turkish authorities, and always with success. My explorations in the city and the western and northern suburbs had yielded very few miscellaneous antiquities. Small objects could at that time be easily stolen. Amongst those which were handed to me by the workmen, were a colossal foot, sandalled, in white marble ; a smaller foot, also in a sandal, of a good period of art; two small torsos, one of them of a nude male, the other of a draped female figure. On the Castle Hill at Ayasalouk, close to the ‘ Gate of Persecution,’ as it is called, I found an interesting INSCRIPTION. Greek inscription of an early period, relating to the art of divination by the flight of birds. 1 This inscription I secured by sawing it off the large block of marble on which it was engraved, and sending it, with other anti¬ quities, to the British Museum. 1 See Appendix, Sundries from Ephesus. 42 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. The Odeum. CHAPTER III. J The Odeum—Fragments of Inscriptions—Turkish Ceremonial at Smyrna— Letters of Antoninus Pius—Publius Vedius Antoninus—Sulpicius Julianus —Letter of Hadrian—The Marble Puzzle—Mode of Working—Search for the Temple—Smyrna and Aidin Railway—St. Paul Fighting with Beasts at Ephesus—Marble Statue—Idleness of Workmen—Female Head—Bishop Trower—Greeks from Kirkenjee—Lucius Verus—The Auditorium—Suspension of Works—Excavations Recommenced—Works Continued—Statue of the Muse Erato—Torso of Silenus—Wreck of Antiquities—Odeum Described—H.R.H. Prince Arthur—Want of Funds —Attempted Assassination—The Chalet—Robbers—St. Luke’s Tomb— Christian Graves—Greek Archbishop—St. Luke—Mausoleum—Baffled Efforts—Wool-factors’ Hall—Search for Temple—Basilica—Pronuncia¬ tion of Latin—Shops—St. Luke’s Church—Caricature—Fine Greek Wall — Promising Excavations—Destruction by Visitors—Visitors to the Ruins —Luncheon versus Antiquities—Loss of Plant—Store Unroofed—Starva¬ tion—Vexatious Stoppage of the Works—Turkish Visit of Inspection. With my grant of ioo /. I commenced work at the Odeum about the middle of March 1864, with as large a gang of workmen as my funds would allow. I engaged a Greek named Spiro as ganger to superintend the work¬ men in my absence, as I was at that time practising as an architect in Smyrna, and could not, therefore, go out to Ephesus every day of the week. The sum of 100/. is not a large one for excavations; but it was all I had asked for by way of a beginning, and it fortunately proved sufficient for discoveries in the Odeum which justified the trustees afterwards in making further advances, and which led ultimately to successful results. The site of the Odeum, or lyric theatre, was not a matter of doubt. It was built on the southern slope of Mount Coressus ; and even before the excavations were begun, the outer semicircular wall of the auditorium was to be seen above ground at each extremity. I had,- there¬ fore, no difficulty in deciding the whereabouts of the proscenium, and I began by cutting at right angles to it a wide trench, which soon exposed to view the outer wall, and the central doorway. I was not long in working my way into the Theatre, and, before the end of the month, I had cleared a considerable portion of the pulpitum or stage, by wheeling the debris out through the central doorway into the open ground in front. On the portion of the stage thus cleared, were found a great number of small pieces of inscribed marble slab, which had fallen upon the pavement from the dado of the proscenium, and were broken, as we afterwards ascertained, into more than one hundred and fifty pieces. To assist the ganger in carrying out my instructions more readily, I now made a plan of the Odeum from the data at my command, which enabled him during the intervals between my visits, to conduct the work without much difficulty; but many small objects found in the excavations were, I fear, at that time appropriated by both ganger and workmen. March 20.—This day an interesting ceremonial took place in Smyrna. There had been very little rain for Fragments of inscrip¬ tions. 44 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Turkish ceremonial at Smyrna. Letters of Antoninus Pius. Publius Vedius Anto¬ ninus. Sulpicius Julianus. Letter of Hadrian. more than two months. Early in the year a great quantity of millet is sown in Asia Minor, and the drought was becoming so serious that on this day about two thousand Turks, all dressed in white, ascended the Castle Hill (Mount Pagus) to pray for rain with outstretched arms. Their voices being raised to a high pitch, were heard at a great distance. Their prayers appear to have been answered, for my journal records ‘ slight showers,’ and then ‘ continuous rain.’ By the end of March, nearly the whole of the fragments of the inscriptions from the proscenium of the Odeum had been found, and these, on being put together in their relative positions, were seen to consist of five inscriptions, four of which were letters addressed by the Emperor Antoninus Pius to the people of Ephesus. Two of them bear the date of the 8th tribunitian power of that Emperor, a.d. 145-6 ; another was written during his 13th tribunitian power, a.d. 150-1. The name of Publius Vedius Antoninus, hitherto un¬ known in history, is mentioned in the two earlier inscrip¬ tions. He wa> Secretary or Clerk to the city at that time, and, under his auspices, were erected, either wholly or in part, the Odeum and other public buildings in that quarter of the city. These services were rewarded, as I after¬ wards ascertained, by the erection of a statue to his honour by the wool-factors in their hall or market. The Imperial Procurator, Sulpicius Julianus, is also mentioned in these inscriptions. The fifth inscription is a letter addressed by the Emperor Hadrian to the people of Ephesus. INSCRIPTIONS . l 45 The fragments of these inscriptions were taken down to Smyrna piece by piece as they were found, and almost the only amusement in the evening which I then allowed myself, was to put together the pieces of this marble puzzle, in which I was often assisted by Mrs. Wood and visitors. I continued to clear out the whole of the debris from the interior of the Odeum, wheeling it out through the doorways, which were found to be five in number. During the time I was exploring the Odeum, I did not fail to study the ground outside the city in search of the Temple, and from time to time I put one or two men to open up any suspicious-looking mound which attracted my attention. The work at the Odeum proceeded now but slowly, in consequence of the immense number of large blocks of stone and marble which, having fallen from the super¬ structure, had blocked up all the entrances, covering the stage, and the adjoining passages. Many of these blocks were too large to be removed to a distance. The Smyrna and Aidin Railway Company had this year (1864) provided first-class carriages on their line. The journey, therefore, between Smyrna and Ayasalouk was made with greater comfort; but it still took fully three hours to traverse a distance of scarcely fifty miles. There are ten intermediate stations between Smyrna and Ayasalouk. April 13.—Dr. Kay, Fellow of Lincoln College, Oxford, and then Principal of the College at Calcutta, came to Smyrna on his way home to England. He visited The marble puzzle. Mode of working. Search for the Temple. Smyrna and Aidin Railway. 46 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Marble statue. Idleness of workmen. Ephesus, and proved himself one of those who really appreciated the great interest of the ruins. I here men¬ tion his name, chiefly because he agreed with me in thinking that St. Paul, in referring to his having ‘ fought with beasts at Ephesus,’ did not mean to assert that he had actually fought with lions and other wild animals in an arena, but that he had contended at Ephesus with the evil passions of wicked men. Many visitors to the ruins have asked to be shown the arena in which St. Paul fought! If St. Paul had fought with wild beasts, he would have mentioned it in the enumeration of his trials and adversities so pathetically set forth in Corinthians, epistle 2, ch. xi. April 25.—A fine white marble statue of a seated female was found in the Odeum. May 2.—On visiting the Odeum to-day I found no men at work. The orchestra had been dug into to a certain extent, and the debris from the upper part of the building was here about 16 feet in depth. The ganger (Spiro) and myself set to work, and brought down, with our united efforts, a great number of large stones, with which the interior was encumbered, and we found some more fragments of the inscriptions from the proscenium. I therefore left orders for the whole of the orchestra to be thoroughly cleared out to the pavement, when the men returned to their work ; but, as the hot weather had begun, it was doubtful whether they would work, exposed as they must be, in the Odeum, to the great heat of the sun, made more STATUE OF LUCIUS VERUS. 47 trying by the quantities of white marble which reflected it. May 7.—A few men had resumed work, and this day a small female head was found in the Odeum. This is one of the pieces of sculpture which were afterwards ceded to the Turkish Government for their museum at Constan¬ tinople. May 12.—Bishop Trower (then of Gibraltar) visited the ruins of Ephesus, accompanied by his wife and daughters. The bishop is an accomplished artist, and he made four or five beautiful sketches of the ruins in the course of his ramble through them. Sometimes, on holiday occasions, large groups of Greeks from Kirkenjee visited the ruins to see what was going on. These were chiefly composed of women and children in charge of one or two old men. Sometimes a young man would accompany them, who was probably the betrothed of one of the young women. The women were remarkable for the unconstrained ease and grace of their movements, as well as for their pretty costume of many colours ; and the children were generally healthy- looking and beautiful. The lower part of a fine statue of Lucius Verus was found near the central doorway of the Odeum about this time ; this is now in the Roman gallery of the British Museum. The plinth on which the statue is placed is inscribed with the name of the Emperor. 1 I afterwards found the upper part of this statue ; but it never reached England, as will be seen hereafter. 1 See Appendix, Sundries, &c. Female head. Bishop Trower. Greeks from Kir¬ kenjee. Lucius Verus. 4 8 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. The audi¬ torium. Suspen¬ sion of works. Excava¬ tions resumed. 1864. May 17.—On visiting the Odeum this day, I found that the workmen had laid bare eleven steps of the audi¬ torium—these were of fine white marble, and were ornamented, as usual, with lions’ claws. I afterwards found that all the seats and steps remained undisturbed. During the months of June, July, and August the excavations were almost entirely suspended, the ganger, as well as the men, finding the weather much too hot for work among marbles which reflected so much light and heat. The few men who might have been hired, not¬ withstanding the heat, asked as much as fifteen piastres a day, their ordinary wages being only ten piastres (about is. 9 d.). While the works were suspended, I made copies, and took paper pressings, of all the inscriptions I could find on the surface and elsewhere ; but the strong wind which set in from the sea made it very difficult to make good impressions, and it seemed always to rise as I placed the paper against the marble. This may be accounted for by the fact of my generally beginning this part of my work about the time that the sea breeze sprung up. Towards the end of August I engaged a fresh ganger, a Catholic, named Joseph ; and, with a fresh set of work¬ men, I resumed my exploration of the Odeum, and at the same time put one or two men on the large mound covering the ruins of the proscenium of the great Theatre. The new ganger proved a great failure, making a number of stupid mistakes during my absence; and, finally, when, on visiting the works on October 1, I found HINDRANCES. him and the men quietly seated, doing nothing, I at once discharged them all, and again suspended the works till I should have more funds at my disposal, and had succeeded in finding another ganger and better workmen. The Muse Erato. The difficulty of getting an honest, industrious, conscientious ganger and good workmen was one of the many hindrances and impediments to which I was more especially subjected for the first six years at Ephesus. E 5° DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Works continued. Statue of the Muse Erato. Torso of Silenus. Wreck of antiquities. Whilst the excavations were suspended, I employed all the time I could devote to it, to the completion of my survey for the general plan of the city, which will be found in this book. In December, the works were renewed at the Odeum with fresh workmen, funds having been voluntarily sub¬ scribed by private individuals to the amount of 87/. At the end of the eastern passage was found an in¬ teresting white marble headless statue, life-size, of the Muse Erato, with the seven-stringed lyre on a pedestal by her side. This statue had evidently fallen from a niche upon the pavement below. In one of the small passages near the central doorway, was found a small torso, partly draped, intended probably for Silenus. By the side of the figure is sculptured a curious vase, which rests on a stand designed seemingly to represent a tripod of metal; on the top of the vase-is a phiale, in which are a phallus and a crescent. The statue of Erato, the upper part of the statue of Lucius Verus, and some other antiquities from the Odeum, were, unfortunately, put on board the 4 Cornish Lass,’ a sailing vessel, which was wrecked on the coast near Syra. When the statue of Erato was recovered, the lyre was missing, and the drapery had been so much damaged by the sea, which had washed off all the sharp edges, that it was not considered worth forwarding to England. The last time I saw it, it was in the house of Mr. Lloyd, who was at that time both British Consul and Lloyd’s agent at Syra. The Odeum had been a very handsome building. THE ODEUM. 5' The circular outer wall is composed of large blocks of limestone, without mortar, from the quarries on Mount Coressus, on the south side of which it was built. The front wall, with its five doorways, and the whole of the internal finishings, are of fine white marble, excepting The Odeum descri bed. Torso of Silenus the shafts of the columns which had fallen from the semi¬ circular colonnade above ; these are of Egyptian syenite. The whole of these works were Roman, and were prob¬ ably done under Publius Vedius Antoninus in the time of Antoninus Pius. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. 52 „ H.R.H. Prince Arthur. 1865. I I Want of funds. The diameter of the Odeum is 153 feet, and it was capable of seating 2,300 persons. The pulpitum (stage) is extremely narrow, being little more than 10 feet deep. The orchestra is spacious, and is sunk nearly 3 feet below the pulpitum. It is paved with white marble, and there is a small ornamental circular drain-cover of marble on the east side. In front of the Odeum I found remains of white marble fluted columns, and well carved Corin¬ thian capitals. These might either have formed part of a colonnade in front, or they might have adorned the proscenium. The debris at the extremities of the pas¬ sages of the Odeum rested on the pavement to the height of 23 feet. It consisted chiefly of large blocks of marble and limestone. In the month of April 1865, H.R.H. Prince Arthur visited the ruins of Ephesus, accompanied by Major (now Colonel Sir Howard) Elphinstone. I had after¬ wards the honour of joining the suite of His Royal Highness, and accompanied him in a cruise to Mitylene, Pergamos, and Assos. At Assos the Turks were re¬ moving the marble seats of the theatre, and conveying them to Constantinople, where a large palace was in pro¬ gress. On our return to Smyrna, I was honoured by an invitation to accompany the Prince on another cruise, returning to Assos, and onward to Mount Athos; but as Mrs. Wood was dangerously ill with bronchitis, I was most kindly excused accepting the invitation. For a great portion of the year 1865, the excavations were at a standstill for want of funds, but I waited, with what patience I could muster, for another advance from THE ODEUM EPHESUS. P LAN. F—J r j _ - 1 ! \ 1 - -f 1- ■ 1 r : . i i 1 1 t “1- 1 -1 - 1 — ! — i —1— U — =j i ; 1 i i - i ' 1 — H ELEVATION OF EXISTING REMAINS . 10 3 0 10 tO 30 4-0 50 60 70 SO 90 IOO ~ 1 - 1 i ■ ■ i-- —i— - 1 - 1 SCALE OF FEET. AN ASSASSIN. 53 the Trustees to continue the works. I should not, how¬ ever, have been able to attend to the works for five or six weeks, as I was ill during that time from a wound I received in Smyrna from the knife of a madman, who had taken a dislike to English Consuls, in consequence of some fancied injustice done him by some English Consul in the Principalities where he had formerly lived. He at last resolved to lie in wait for, and to kill the English Consul at Smyrna. On the morning on which he determined to carry out his design the streets of Smyrna were full of people, who had, for the first time for many weeks, ventured out in large numbers, after a cholera panic, which had kept the streets clear while it lasted. Only seven deaths posted on the door of the Consulate that morning, showed that the disease was leaving the city. I was at that time building the terminal station of the Cassaba railway, and, meeting the agent of that line, walked with him down Frank Street. When we arrived nearly opposite the English Consulate, the man, who waited for the Consul, and who had primed himself with some stimulant, became impatient, and see¬ ing two Englishmen coming down the street, one of whom (my companion) showed in his appearance strong signs of his nationality, he rushed upon him and drove his knife through the hand he held up to defend himself with. In a few seconds I was left alone in the middle of the street, confronted with the man, who now sought to escape. Seeing that I barred his passage to the sea, he rushed towards me with the exclamation, ‘ Et vous aussi! ’ I endeavoured to defend myself with a slight walking- Attempt¬ ed rsiassi- nation. 54 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. The Chalet. Robbers. stick I was then carrying, but he struck up my guard, rushed in, and stabbed me within an inch of my heart; the police came up in time to prevent a second blow, and seized him. The people, who had retired to a safe dis¬ tance, then closed in upon me, and proffered the assist¬ ance I no longer needed. When the assassin was taken before the Pacha, he told the story of his life, and narrated how he had murdered his mother in cold blood, and why he intended to kill the Consul. The doctors pro¬ nounced the man to be mad, and he was confined in an asylum, where he died, raving mad, within twelve months. During part of the time that I was employed in ex¬ ploring the Odeum, I lived in a small house in the Ephe¬ sus Pass, which had been built for one of the resident engineers of the Smyrna and Aidin railway. This house was appropriately called the Chalet. During my residence here, I was in constant danger of being attacked by a band of ten robbers who infested the neighbourhood, and had broken into several houses in the Pass. It was their habit to maltreat, and leave the inhabitants tied to their bedsteads and other heavy pieces of furniture, in order that they might make good their escape before an alarm could be raised. In doing this, they were favoured by the extreme loneliness of the situation, and the distance from the nearest police station, which was then at the entrance to the Pass. As it might be supposed that I kept money by me in readiness to pay my workmen and other current expenses, I fully expected to be attacked, and made ! arrangements accordingly. LIFE AT THE CHALET 55 My greatest danger was when I returned home in the evening, accompanied by a single cavass, who always went down with a jar on our arrival, to fetch fresh water from the stream which runs through the Pass. I was then left alone on the balcony outside the house, which could The Ch&let, Ephesus Pass have been easily approached from an ambush at the back, the undergrowth on the side of the mountain affording a thick cover close to the house. We had one or two alarms, but were never attacked as our neighbours were, and I believe our escape was mainly owing to the pre- 56’. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Zebecks. St. Luke’s tomb. caution I took in placing a loaded revolver by my side on the dinner table, which could be seen from the out¬ side. A pistol bullet which had passed through the floor of the balcony and lodged in the roof was found one day, but when or under what circumstances the shot was fired, we did not know. It might have been accidental, or it might have been done in sport by some passer-by. One day, while the Odeum was still being explored, and I was personally superintending the exploration of a mound at a little distance from it, my ganger came running to me without his hat, and in great apparent alarm, to warn me that some Zebecks were at the Odeum. They had taken a sheep by force and were likely to come on to me to rob me. He had given them tobacco, and had done what he could to conciliate them, but they were desperate thieves and were not to be trusted. Whether there was any truth in all this, I never knew, but I thought it better for many reasons to stand my ground. For one thing, I suspected that the whole story might be an invention of the ganger to test my courage and character. I did not, therefore, take his advice and go home; and seeing that I remained, one of the workmen (a Greek) coolly suggested that I should put my watch and money in a hole which he would dig for them ! In walking home one evening to the Chalet from my work at the Odeum, a distance of about three miles, my weary foot, scarcely lifted from the ground, struck against a block of marble which, on examination, proved to be carved with the head of a Greek cross in a sunk panel. ST. LUKE'S TOMB. I excavated the next day in this place, which was not far from the Odeum. The marble proved to be a door¬ jamb with sunk panels, the upper one having a large cross, the lower one having the figure of a bull or buffalo of the country, with a small cross cut over its back. On the inner side of the door-jamb there were the remains of a human figure which had been carved upon it. This Boor-jamb, St, Luke's Tomb had evidently represented a saint or martyr. The head had been encircled by a nimbus, which, having been sunk in the marble, remained perfect. One or two persons who have seen it, think they can trace the remains of a sword which had been run through the body, thus repre¬ senting a martyr. 57 58 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Christian graves. I was encouraged by these symbols and details to believe that I had found the tomb of St. Luke, or at least his shrine, the bull having been known as his symbol as early as the fifth century. But this building, probably, belonged to the latter end of the third, or beginning of the fourth century, when Christianity had the ascendency at Ephesus, and doubtless the Christians had the power of removing the remains of St. Luke from outside the city, where he would have been buried in the first instance, and according him the honour of burial within the city. Over his remains, presuming that this was indeed his tomb, they raised the beautiful shrine, of which I found enough to enable me to restore it on paper. It was circular on plan, 50 feet in diameter, and was adorned with sixteen columns, which were raised upon a lofty basement; an ornate entablature and domed roof com¬ pleted the structure. This beautiful building stood in the middle of a quadrangle 153 feet across, which was sur¬ rounded on all sides by a colonnade, several bases of the columns of which remain in position. It must have somewhat resembled Burns’s monument on Calton Hill, Edinburgh, but on a much larger scale. The quadrangle was paved with white marble, and wherever a slab of this pavement was removed, a grave was seen immediately below it. I may add that I did not remove many of these slabs, as I have a great objec¬ tion to the unnecessary disturbance of human remains. This discovery of graves goes far to prove that this was indeed the tomb of St. Luke, as we know that the early Christians paid large sums of money for the privilege of « * S T LUKES TOMB, EPHESUS. ELEVAT 1 ON. PLAN. <)' c »lf. of Fee t , ST. LUKES TOMB. 59 being buried near a saint or martyr, especially when it happened, as in this case, that the tomb was within the city. I am inclined to think, therefore, that these were the graves of Christians. When I first found this building and its interesting surroundings, I wished to have my discovery verified, if possible, by the records of history, and I called upon the Greek Archbishop of Smyrna, who had a good library of ecclesiastical books, to consult him on the subject. He obligingly took down the books of two historians, one of whom tells us that St. Luke was hung at Patras, the other that he died at Ephesus. I was content to think, with the Archbishop, that the latter historian was much the more trustworthy of the two. While I proceeded with my exploration of the Odeum, I did not neglect to open ground against several of the public buildings which surrounded the adjacent Forum. I found in this manner a large circular Roman building directly opposite the Odeum. This was probably a mausoleum. I did not succeed in finding any inscription here, as it was only partly explored, nor did I succeed in working my way inside the building, although I after¬ wards tried hard to do so during two hot days in the month of July, with the assistance of an English workman, nicknamed ‘ Scandalous Jack.’ We worked from the top, through six feet of solid masonry, without any change of sound to show that we were approaching the interior. Another building near this we explored to a greater extent, being encouraged to do so by the discovery of a fine Roman head of heroic size, together with several The Arch¬ bishop of Smyrna. Mauso¬ leum. Baffled efforts. Wool- factors’ hall. 6o DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Search for Temple. Basilica. inscriptions, one of which was a dedication to Publius Vedius Antoninus by the wool-factors. This building, then, was probably their hall or market. I also explored a large mound at the eastern extremity of the ravine between Mounts Prion and Coressus. At that time this mound seemed to be outside the city, and I thought that it might cover the site of the Temple ; but I eventually found that it was within the city walls, which I succeeded in tracing around it on the three outer sides. Below the debris of mediaeval buildings, I found that a chalk hill formed the basis of this lar^e mound, which had been artificially squared up to the city walls enclosing it, and it thus presented a very formal and promising ap¬ pearance. This spot I had selected as the probable site of the Temple, on being asked by the Trustees where I should propose to dig for it, if I should be permitted to spend 50/. of my grant in 1866, in search of it. Near the tomb of St. Luke I explored another build- ing, which appeared to have been a basilica. The street front had been richly adorned with fluted columns with Corinthian capitals, similar to those of the Odeum, and ornate entablatures, all of white marble. Many frag¬ ments of an inscription were found in front with the debris of the building. A seated statue of T. Claudius Secundus was here found upon a pedestal, with a dedi¬ cation inscribed in Latin, which enumerated his various offices; viz. Viator Tribunicius, Accensus Velatus, and Lictor Curiatus. This inscription is repeated in Latin with Greek characters, showing that the Greeks had, at 1 See Appendix, Sundries from Ephesus. BUILDINGS NEAR ODEUM. that time, learnt to speak, though not to read, the lan¬ guage of the Romans ; and some light is here thrown upon the true pronunciation of some Latin vowels and consonants. The it, was evidently pronounced, as the Italians now pronounce it, oo, being represented by the Greek characters omicron and upsilon ; the Latin c is re¬ presented by the Greek kappa, and the Latin e by the Greek eta. Along the sides of this building were recesses, which had evidently served as workshops, and in one I found a number of ox bones which had been sawn by a fine saw, and had been cleaned and prepared for the handles of knives, &c. At the south end I could just trace the curve of an apse. This building probably became a church, and it might have been dedicated to Fronunci- 'ation of Latin. Shops. St, Luke’s Church. Carica¬ ture. Fine Greek wall. Promising excava¬ tions. Destruc¬ tion by visitors. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. St. Luke, as it is near his tomb. Upon its front wall is scratched a curious caricature. Amongst the debris we found the torso of a male, about life size, of a good period. The partial exploration of another building near the Odeum, revealed a magnificent Greek wall, which prob¬ ably belonged to a small temple. The street by the side of this wall was very precipitous, and the marble pavement was deeply nicked transversely, to prevent accidents to foot passengers. No statuary or inscriptions w r ere found here to encourage further exploration of the building. All these buildings have been allowed to remain ex¬ posed to view as far as they have been opened up ; and future explorers, whether English, American, French, or German, will have the benefit of what has been already done. There is no doubt in my mind that excavations at Ephesus amongst the ruins of the city, as well as on the site of the Temple, and within the Peribolus Wall, would well repay the outlay, if conducted with liberality and good management. When the Odeum was first opened, the stage, orchestra, seats, and steps were found in a perfect state of preservation, under an accumulation of soil and debris, varying in depth from 5 feet to 23 feet, the former depth on the upper part of the auditorium, the latter at the extreme ends of the passages. The beautiful front wall also remained, with its five doorways and steps, to the height of 7 feet 6 inches. Visitors have recklessly destroyed much that remained, by breaking off frag¬ ments of marble from the seats and cornices, and by * ' INTERIOR OF ODEUM. DESTRUCTION BY VISITORS. 63 strewing the whole of the interior with masses of rejected marble, and chippings from the specimens which they carried away. One day after the Odeum had been cleared out, a party of about thirty people came while I was there, and began throwing the marbles about. I could not look on and forbear speaking ; and what I said was uttered in so fierce and threatening a manner that it stopped further destruction by that party. The desire to possess fragments of ancient sculpture, such as a nose, an ear, a finger, or a morsel of architectural moulding from an old building, may be natural, but is most deplor¬ able when it causes, as it often does, the utter destruction of works of art, which, placed in some museum, would be objects of very great interest. I have even heard of captains of merchant ships who, bringing passengers to Smyrna, advised them on their visit to Ephesus, to take with them hammers anci chisels to aid them in obtaining interesting specimens for their cabinets and curiosity shelves at home. I have, however, met with some few scrupulous persons, who would scarcely accept a small frag¬ ment, and have asked repeatedly, ‘ Quite sure you don’t want it ? ’ before they would be persuaded to take it away. Visitors to Ephesus came from all parts of the known world ; but I have seen there, perhaps, more of our American cousins than of any other nationality. I was particularly fortunate in meeting with many Americans— ladies as well as gentlemen—who caused me to form a very high estimate of the American character. I found them generally anxious to make something more than a superficial survey of the ruins, and I do not now remem- Visitors to the ruins. 64 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Luncheon versus an¬ tiquities. ber any party of Americans preferring to sit down to eat and drink to making a careful examination of all the interesting objects they had come to see. I cannot say the same of all nationalities. I overtook one day on the Plain of Ephesus, while I was exploring the Odeum, a party of gentlemen belonging to various nations. They were making their way on foot from the railway station to the ruins, accompanied by two porters, bearing each a hamper of provisions. Two of these gentlemen, of whom I had some knowledge, were very anxious to make the best use of their time, and ‘ do ’ the ruins thoroughly ; the others were perfectly careless of anything but the very important question as to where they should eat the luxurious luncheon which they had brought from Smyrna. Seeing the disposition of the majority, I foresaw that, unless I provided against it, the gentlemen who really wished to see something would be entirely baffled. I therefore told the porters (sotto voce) to carry the hampers to the Odeum as fast as possible. As I antici¬ pated, before we got half-way to the Odeum, one of the most indolent of the party threw himself on the ground, and declared he would go no farther in the heat. He was, however, persuaded to change his mind, when I told him that the luncheon had been sent straight to the Odeum, about a mile off, and he must either follow to partake of it, or remain behind without refreshment. This had the desired effect. Dearly loving his mid-day meal, he managed to struggle on with the other discon¬ tented members of the party ; passing unheeded everything of interest on his way. After lunching in a pleasant TRIALS OF TEMPER. 65 shady place near the Odeum, they could not be persuaded to enter the Little Theatre, and see what remained of it. During the whole time that my workmen were employed in digging trial holes in every direction, I had the greatest difficulty in keeping my ‘ plant ’ together at Ephesus. The men would leave their picks and shovels and any other tools which they had in use, in the holes and trenches, or they would leave them on the top, scarcely hidden by the loose earth thrown out of the holes, instead of carrying them home to their sleeping places. The tools left on the top were often stolen, and those left in the holes were frequently buried by the falling in of the sides of the excavation. My store-room or magazine at that time was an old barrack near the railway station at Ayasalouk, which had been used as a refreshment-room for the workmen on the railway, while the works were goingon at that part of the line, and was sold by the rail¬ way company to a Caffejee, who, without giving me any notice whatever, began to unroof it early one morning, leaving my stock of tools and implements at the mercy of anyone who might take a fancy to them. This is a specimen of the free and easy ways of the people of the country. The man wanted the materials of this old bar¬ rack to use in a new building, and he hit upon the readiest way of obtaining them, fancying, perhaps, that I might not be able to pay the needful attention to any notice he might give me. To such petty annoyances as this I was constantly subjected, and with the frequent attacks of fever to which I was a victim, and the anxiety naturally resulting from the uncertainty of my enterprise, these F Loss of ‘ plant.’ Store un¬ roofed. Vexatious stoppage of works. Turkish visit or inspec¬ tion. annoyances helped to keep my temper in a constant state of ferment. In this case I was detained from my work at the excavations, by being obliged to seek another store room for my ‘ plant,’ and have it conveyed thither immediately. Among other annoyances there was so much difficulty in obtaining meat at this time, that I was sometimes en¬ tirely without any for three or four days. As I am not exactly a vegetarian, I felt the loss of my accustomed food very much, and I had great difficulty at such times, through sheer weakness, in getting through my day’s work. The excavations were frequently impeded, and some-* times altogether stopped, by the Turkish authorities. This was generally brought about by the interference of the Kaimachan of Scala Nova, on the complaint of the land- owners or occupiers, who had a very 7 natural dislike to seeing large and deep holes and trenches dug in their ground. On such occasions our Consul at Smyrna has had very little difficulty in arranging for the continuance of the work, and, from first to last, no sort of bribe, either in money or presents, has ever passed from me into the hands of Turkish officials. Cabouli Pasha, then Governor of Smyrna, was repeatedly told by intriguing persons that I was constantly finding beautiful statues. Hearing this, and other vague re¬ ports as to my proceedings, he sent his secretary to Ephesus to inspect the works. This gentleman, who came in patent leather boots, and sumptuous clothing to match, lunched with me in the Great Theatre. On looking down into a few of my trial holes, at the risk of falling into THE EMISSARY OF THE PASHA. them, as they were approached with some difficulty, and seeing their unpromising appearance, he was satisfied, not only that I had found nothing to excite the envy or cupidity of anyone, but that I was not likely to find anything of consequence. With this assurance the Pasha was well content, and he troubled me no more with enquiries. p 2 68 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Great Theatre. CHAPTER IV. The Great Theatre—Inscriptions from Temple of Artemis—Other Inscrip¬ tions—The Great Salutarian Inscription—Image of Artemis—Sculpture —Survey of Buildings—Accident—Obstinacy—Priend—Ill-health—Head of Lucius Verus—Search for Temple Resumed—City Wall—Rubbish Heap—A Hundred and Ten Inscriptions—Change of Residence—Fate of Chalet—Magnesian Gate Found—Coressian Gate—Mounts Prion and Coressus—Old Legend—H.M.S. ‘ Terrible —Quarters for Crew—Men of the ‘ Terrible’ at Ephesus—A Ouaint Petty Officer—Skill of Workmen at the British Museum—Officers of the ‘Terrible’—New Ganger—Threats of Violence—Suspected Murder—A Greek Marriage—Longevity—Arrest of Workmen—Murdered Man Exhumed—Prisoners—Patience of Mudir —State of the Country—My Reception at the Konak—Liberation of Prisoners—Return to Ephesus—Murder made Easy. In the month of February 1866, having obtained the necessary advances from the Trustees, I began in good earnest the exploration of the Great Theatre, which is one of the largest in Asia Minor. It is built on the western slope of Mount Coressus, and from the upper seats may be seen a long strip of blue sea. Its diameter is 495 feet, and like most theatres of this description, it is of a horse-shoe form. As the wings approach the proscenium, the width is diminished by 28 feet, the measurement at the end of the walls being 467 feet. By my computations this vast theatre was capable of seating 24,500 persons. A large archway on the north side of the outer wall of the audi- M M ' . -I m mflKH . PLAN of GREAT THEATRE, EPHESUS. ' THE GREAT THEATRE. 69 torium is of the period of Augustus. This archway was afterwards blocked up as shown in woodcut, and this was probably done at a later period, when the Theatre was partly rebuilt. The stage, or pulpitum, was nearly 22 feet wide ; the orchestra 110 feet in diameter. The proscenium, built almost entirely of white marble, was Roman Arch, Great Theatre adorned with granite columns and highly enriched en¬ tablatures of fine white marble, in two tiers. All these, having fallen upon the stage, remained there undisturbed. A portion of these entablatures consisted of fretwork in white marble, filled in with strips of porphyry. I pro¬ ceeded to remove as many of the blocks of marble as was necessary to clear a portion of the stage for its whole 7 o DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. | Inscrip¬ tions from | Temple of ! Artemis. width. I then turned over and carefully examined the remainder, and took all the inscriptions and sculpture that were worth sending to England. Amongst them were found six large blocks of white marble, covered with decrees of the Council and the people of Ephesus, which had originally belonged to the last Temple of Artemis, showing that the proscenium had been repaired after the destruction of the Temple. These decrees conferred the honour of Ephesian citizenship on various persons for their services. One of these was Agathokles, a Rhodian, who, during a time of dearth, had sent into the market at Ephesus 14,000 measures of corn to be sold for the benefit of the poor at a low price. Two other decrees reward Euphronios, son of Hegemon, for his services in an embassy to Prepelaus, general of Cassander, about B.c. 310; and Archestratos, for his services as general in Clazomenae. Another decree confers the citizenship and gold crowns on Kings Demetrius and Seleucus, and honours their envoy, Nicagoras, a Rhodian. This inscription is probably not later than b.c. 299. In another, Kings Antigonus and Demetrius are mentioned. Another de¬ cree rewards some one who had redeemed from captivity certain Ephesians taken prisoners in war. Some of these decrees give new and valuable information as to the history of Ephesus in the Macedonian period. We also find in them the names of five local tribes and many of their subdivisions, some of the latter having been hitherto unknown. 1 1 See Appendix : Inscriptions from the Temple, Nos 1 to 25. GREEK AND LATIN INSCRIPTIONS. 7i A few more inscriptions found in the Great Theatre, are worthy of mention here :— A letter from the Emperor Hadrian to the people of Ephesus, relating to certain disputes as to loans, in conse¬ quence of which the Emperor sent the copy of a decree to Cornelius Priscus, the pro-consul, referring to that functionary the settlement of the matters in dispute, and the recovery of all debts due to the senate. The date of this letter is a.d. i 20. A fragment of inscription which appears to have been part of a letter addressed to the people of Ephesus by some Emperor or public functionary, relates to a public banquet, forming part, apparently, of a festival in honour of a goddess, probably Demeter, here styled Soteira (Saviour), whose temple and statue are mentioned. The name of the Emperor Commodus also occurs in this inscription. Some fragments of a Latin constitutio or law, relating to the alimony of infants, in which reference is made to a previous constitutio framed by Vedius Pollio. probably the historical personage of that name who lived in the time of Augustus. The following also were found :— A dedication by the council and people of Ephesus in honour of Caius Julius Agrippa, son of ‘ King Alexan¬ der,’ quaestor and propraetor of Asia. Dedication, probably of a statue, to the Emperor Antoninus Pius, by the council and people of Ephesus. Fragments of a dedication to the Emperors Septimius j Severus and Caracalla. Other inscrip¬ tions. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. 7*. Dedication, partly in Latin, by Junius Pastor, Caesen- nius Sospes, propraetor of Asia, and holder of other high offices. Some fragments of lists of persons who had sacrificed, perhaps, at the Temple of Artemis. Dedication, probably of a statue, by the council and people of Ephesus, to Julius Lupus Lambillus, quaestor and propraetor of three pro-consuls. Part of an inscription recording the names of the secretaries of the council of the Misthoterion, and of the superintendents of the Deipnophoriac procession. List of victories gained by an athlete in various ofames. o List of victories in pugilistic contests, gained by an athlete in public games at various cities. Inscription recording the dedication to an athlete and his victories in the Olympic and various other games. Inscription recording two agonistic victories, probably 1 in musical or lyrical contests. Inscription in honour of some one who was three times Olympic victor. 1 It may be remarked that on the return of such a victor to his native city, the wall of the city was sometimes broken down for his triumphal en¬ trance, as for an Emperor. The architrave of the southern entrance door was inscribed with the name of Publius Rutilius Bassus, who was town clerk in the time of Hadrian, a.d. 120, as we learn by inscription No. 17. Most of these inscriptions were found on the stage of 1 For these inscriptions, see Appendix: Inscriptions from Great Theatre. THE SAL UTARIAN INSCRIPTION. 73 the Great Theatre; but there was a much greater prize awaiting my discovery. I had examined the marbles on the stage by turning them over from north to south. When I came to clear the southern entrance I found the whole of the eastern wall of that entrance inscribed with a series of decrees, chiefly relating to a number of gold and silver images, weighing from three to seven pounds each, which were voted to Artemis, and ordered to be placed in her Temple, by a certain wealthy Roman, named C. Vibius Salutarius. 1 At the same time he gave a sum of money by way of endowment for keeping them clean and in order. On a certain day of assembly in the Theatre, viz., May 25, which was the birthday of the goddess, these images were to be carried in procession from the Temple to the Theatre by the priests, accompanied by a staff-bearer and guards, and to be met at the Magnesian gate by the Ephebi or young men of the city, who, from that point, took part in the procession, and helped to carry the images to the Theatre. After the assembly, the statues or images were taken back to the Temple in the same order of procession, escorted by the Ephebi as far as the Coressian gate. Among the statues enumerated in the inscription, are those of Artemis, with two stags, and a figure, probably a female, representing the city of Ephesus. In one of the decrees contained in this inscrip¬ tion, the consuls of the year a.d. 104 are mentioned. In another, the Emperor Trajan is mentioned as then reign¬ ing. The date of the whole inscription is probably not much later than a.d. J04. 1 See Appendix : Inscriptions from Theatre No. 1. The Great Salutarian Inscrip¬ tion. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. It will be observed that the procession above de¬ scribed made the complete circuit of the city, and in its course the images must have been seen by great numbers of the inhabitants, and thus the vanity of C. Vibius Salutarius was gratified as far as these statues were con¬ cerned. Another inscription in Latin, found also in the Great Theatre, records the dedication by Vibius Salutarius of several silver images, and enumerates a list of offices held by him in Sicily and other provinces ; some of these offices being made known to us for the first time by this inscription. The Great Theatre, in which these inscriptions re¬ lating to the gold and silver images were found, was doubtless the theatre mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles as the scene of the uproar caused by the manufacturers of silver shrines for the Temple of Artemis. The fact that the enthusiastic outcry ‘ Great is Diana of the Ephesians!’ was sustained for two hours, led me to picture to myself the Temple as being within sight of the people in the Theatre, who would thus be inspired by the glory and beauty of the building before their eyes. But from the Theatre the Temple could not possibly be seen. The view is broken by Mount Coressus, and the enthu¬ siastic conduct of the people must therefore be ascribed wholly to their superstitious faith in the goddess, and their strong partizanship for the shrine-makers. 1 3 Acts xix. 23, &c. * THE GREAT THEATRE _EPHESUS. SCULPTURE. 75 We are also told that the Ephesians at that time worshipped an image of Diana, which was believed to have fallen from Jupiter. This might have been an aerolite of an unusually large size, which resembled in some respects the human form, and which might have been perfected, and made into a fitting representation of Dust of an Emperor. the goddess by a sculptor and his assistants before it was set up in her Temple. Some aerolites have been found in Greenland weighing as much as nineteen tons. The sculpture found in the Great Theatre was all Roman, and was very inferior to the inscriptions in value and interest. Under the stage was found the colossal bust of an Image of Artemis. Sculpture. 76 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Emperor, bearing on the breast-plate a Medusa’s head and two griffins. Some fragments of a frieze from the proscenium, with satyrs and cupids, were found; also a Triton blowing a shell, all coarsely cut, but probably striking when in position, as they were vigorous in execution, and their effect was originally heightened by colour. Statues of Venus, Minerva, and Mercury were also Triton Biowing a Shell. found, the last two headless. The Minerva is remark¬ able for a particular disposition of the aegis. The Venus was afterwards presented to the Turks, and when I visited the Museum at Constantinople, I saw it, with other sculptures from Ephesus, in one of the store-rooms there. It is thus described by Mr. Newton, in his report to the Trustees :—‘ A small statue of Venus in the attitude of the Venus de Medicis, but differing from that statue, and from the Venus of the Capitol, in the head-dress and accessories. This statuette is well preserved, but the proportions are clumsy, and the ; I execution provincial. It is not probably of an earlier period than the third century a.d.’ I cleared out the Theatre sufficiently to enable me to make a plan of it. As far as I explored the auditorium, some of the steps were found remaining, but the marble from the seats had been removed. These are some of the most important results of ex¬ plorations made at the Great Theatre from February 1866 to the end of April 1868. During these two years the works were often stopped for want of funds, and I took advantage of the leisure thus afforded me, not only to perfect my general plan, but to survey all the public buildings in the city. Soon after the Theatre had been cleared out, a gen¬ tleman with whom I am now acquainted visited the ruins, and took with him the old man who at that time under¬ took to act as guide. Little or no conversation passed between them till they came to the Theatre, when the visitor, looking towards the auditorium, said, ‘ So this is the Theatre.’ ‘ No,’ the old man replied, ‘that is a school for little boys.’ ‘ This,’ turning towards the proscenium, ‘ is the Theatre.’ The poor old man had evidently jumbled up the contents of a guide-book, which, referring to the School of Tyrannus, had described it as being near the Theatre. One day, while measuring at the Great Theatre, with the assistance of my cavass, Eclrese, I stepped backwards carelessly, and fell from the top of the wall into some bushes, which fortunately broke my fall. Though breath- Survey of Buildings. Accident. 78 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Obstinacy. Priene. Ill health. Head of Lucius Verus. Search for Temple. City wall. less for a time, I was but slightly hurt. I had, however, a very narrow escape. Waiting for funds made this time a most trying one, and some of my friends in Smyrna, seeing that my health was giving way, kindly advised me to give up the ex¬ cavations and return to England; but my ‘ obstinacy,’ as Mr. Newton designated it before the Westminster scholars, prevailed, and I determined to remain and persevere, although the enterprise seemed at that time almost hopeless. Early in January 1867 I visited Priene and rescued from destruction two fragments of inscription from the Temple of Athena Polias, which are now in the British Museum, with all that has been since recovered by Mr. Pullan. In April the state of my health obliged me to leave for England, where I remained till September. On my return to Smyrna, a man called upon me, and coolly offered to sell me the head of the statue of Lucius Verus, which had been stolen from my excavations at the Odeum. He said he had bought it for 8/. from the people who stole it, and he would not take less than 20/. for it. This head, unfortunately, has never been recovered. As I had obtained leave to spend a portion of my grant from the Trustees in continuing my search for the Temple, I employed about twenty men in sinking trial holes outside the city, eastward. In the course of these explorations we found the wall of the city on the east side of the large mound at the end of the ravine between Mounts Prion and Coressus. Inside one of the towers THE MAGNESIAN GATE 79 we came across a great quantity of pottery, consisting chiefly of lamps, some of which were joined together, having been spoilt in the baking. The return of the wall was found on the south side of the mound ; and here we reached a gigantic rubbish-heap which ran the whole length of the wall on that side. Although I made several cross cuts into this mound, I was not fortunate enough to find anything of value, the rubbish consisting chiefly of broken pottery of a late period. Before the close of the year 1867 I had found in the Great Theatre and elsewhere, 110 inscriptions, mostly Greek, the rest Latin. Indifference to the interest of the ruins of ancient build¬ ings was shown in a remarkable manner one day, when three hundred people visited Ephesus, dined in a large marquee near the Great Theatre, and only six or eight were persuaded after dinner to enter the Theatre. I have since been reminded of this circumstance by a lady, who greatly regretted she had neglected the opportunity she then had of seeing the ruins. I now took up my abode at the house near the railway station at Ayasalouk, which had been built for an hotel, but had nor answered. During my absence the Chalet had been broken into by thieves, who stole my furniture, and the house had been wilfully damaged, and ren¬ dered uninhabitable by mischievous passers-by. Before the close of the year I had succeeded in finding the Magnesian gate, near the Opistholeprian Gymnasium, close to the mound around which I found the city wall. This is one of the two gates named in Rubbish- heap. 110 In¬ scriptions. Change of Residence. Fate of Chalet. Magnesian gate found. 8o DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. the long Salutarian inscription from the Great Theatre. I had resolved to seek out these gates that I might follow the roads leading from them to the Temple. This inscription, indeed, gave me the clue which I had hoped to obtain by exploring some of the public buildings, and .Excavator's House and Aqueduct at Ayasaloulc. confirmed me in the resolution already formed, to search for one or two of the city gates and open up the roads leading from them, choosing the most worn road as the one likely to lead to the Temenos. The inscription speaks of the procession of images from the Temple to the Theatre, as passing in through the Magnesian gate, and as passing out on its return to HM.S. ‘TERRIBLE: the Temple through the Coressian gate. The intention was evidently to make as complete a circuit as would enable the inhabitants of the city generally^ to see the images as they passed along. I afterwards found the Coressian gate near the Stadium on the north side of the city ; and the position of this gate, with other ascer tained facts, caused me to reverse the positions of the two mountains, as shown on the English Admiralty Chart. The Coressian gate must have been the gate at the foot of Mount Coressus, the round mountain hitherto called Prion, while the latter name (Prion, a saw) is particularly applicable to the long serrated mountain hitherto called Coressus. As to the name ‘ Coressus,’ a curious legend, which must be comparatively modern, tells us that Artemis, in her earthly wanderings near her birthplace, approached the Coressian gate, and addressing one whom she met, asked what place it was. The answer was ‘ Kyria esas ’— lady, yours. As I had accumulated at Ayasalouk, in my magazines, a large number of inscribed blocks of marble, besides sculpture and other antiquities, I applied to the Trustees of the British Museum for the aid of a man-of-war to remove the Salutarian inscription from the wall, and to take it and other antiquities to England. January 25, 1868, H.M.S. ‘ Terrible’ came to Smyrna, with orders from the Admiralty to take on board a number of cases of antiquities from Ephesus, to be transported to England, and to assist in conveying from the ruins of the city to the railway station at Ayasalouk all the inscribed and sculp¬ tured marbles which I had selected for the British Museum. 8i Coressian gate. Mounts Prion and Coressus. Old legend. H.M.S. ‘ Terrible.’ G 82 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. [ Quarters | for the ! crew. i For this purpose Captain Commerell sent me a por¬ tion of his crew, consisting of sixteen blue jackets, four marines, and two carpenters, twenty-two men in all, under the charge of Lieutenant Hallett. Most of these men volunteered for the service, in spite of the bad repute of the climate of Ephesus, which is generally designated as ‘ most pestilential.’ Where to lodge these men seemed at first difficult; and, after trying several of the Caffejees, who asked ridiculously exorbitant sums for the use of their wretched huts for twenty days, I at last came to terms with an old lady who occupied the large room of the house at Ayasa- louk, in which we afterwards lived till the excavations were discontinued. In this one room the old lady, who had seen what are called better days, had all her earthly goods. She had once positively had a whole house of her own, and a husband ; now she had only one room, rent free, in kind consideration of her being poor and a widow. She had the honour of being the mother of the gentle¬ man porter and pointsman at Ayasalouk, who showed by the manner in which he carried himself that he was far too proud for the duties he had undertaken. For three Turkish pounds the old lady turned out and took refuge in the station itself. The blue jackets, hav¬ ing made short work of moving her property from one room to another, scrubbed out the room she had vacated, built a kitchen, and then took a stroll, ‘just to see what the place was like,’ They soon knew all about it, and before nightfall were as comfortably settled down as if they were at home. As I could not well attend to the MAN OF IVANS MEN AT EPHESUS. 83 workmen while the man-of-war’s men were enraged in their work at Ephesus, I discharged all but a few of them, and partially suspended the excavations. I availed myself of this opportunity to get rid of my ganger, with whom I was not satisfied, and whose evil influence and intrigues made the Bakal so irregular with his supplies that the men were often without bread for the day. February 1.—The crew of the ‘ Terrible ’ began their work at Ephesus, by removing some inscribed blocks of marble from the Great Theatre to the railway station; but we soon found that we should get on better if we had a few more blue jackets and two more carpenters. Captain Commerell therefore sent me eight more men, two of whom were carpenters. All the four carpenters were now employed in making strong cases for the stones and other antiquities, and, when a cook and his mate had been told off from the whole number, we had just enough men to drag the cart over the stony ground between the ruins and the railway station. The men enjoyed them¬ selves amazingly. On the first day one of them began to chip the sarcophagus of Polycarpos, found near the Magnesian gate. I told him with some warmth that they were there to aid me in preserving whatever might be j found that was interesting, and not to follow the bad example of some visitors. My remonstrance had its desired effect, and I had no further reason to complain during the twenty days of their sojourn at Ephesus. Amongst other tasks, they had to remove the facing stones of the wall of the south entrance to the Great Theatre, which was covered with the Salutarian inscrip- g 2 Men of the ‘ Terrible ’ at Ephe¬ sus. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. tion. These inscribed stones were very heavy, being of a great thickness, and were so firmly fixed in their places with strong iron cramps, that it was very difficult to remove them without injury. I feared that if the sailors were allowed to begin the work without a caution, we should have very little of the inscription intact, when the stones were removed. Almost the first block they had to remove was a most delicate one, which required very careful handling, as it had broken off at the upper edge as sharp as a knife. I therefore told them that if they landed that stone on the pavement at my feet without further injury to it, I would give them all round a pound of tobacco. This they succeeded in doing, and the tobacco money, handed over at once to one of the petty officers, had a most satisfactory effect. All the other stones were removed with the greatest care, and with as little damage as possible. The whole of this inscription is now safely lodged in the basement floor of the British Mu¬ seum, with more than four hundred others from Ephesus. The sailors were not allowed to go out of doors at night, ‘ cruising about,’ as they would call it. After sup¬ per, therefore, they ranged themselves along the sides of a large table in the middle of their room, and having elected a chairman, who was probably one of the two petty officers, they sang songs, which were chiefly of a most sentimental turn, but never without a chorus, in which all hands (voices) joined most lustily. The more sentimental the song, the louder the chorus, as if ‘ Jack ’ wanted to conceal the fact that his heart had been touched by the sentiment. One of their songs was so dreadfully pathetic, MR. KEEBLES. 85 and was sung in so effective a manner, that it ‘got into our heads,’ and as it was repeated every evening, we in¬ voluntarily exclaimed, ‘ There’s that horrible song again.’ The chairman used his hammer freely, and so kept order. At ten o’clock punctually, all hands ‘ turned in,’ and a few minutes later, silence reigned in the house that sheltered from the bitter cold of that winter so many honest ‘ Britishers.’ Mr. Hallett was an excellent specimen of a young naval officer who strives to do his duty manfully and conscientiously. The men fell in, were inspected, and marched off to their work with a regularity quite equal to that observed on board ship ; and at the same time they took to their work in the open plain with wonderful energy and good humour, in spite of the bitterly cold wind which prevailed the whole time. One of the petty officers named Keebles was a man of remarkable and unflagging energy, who, whenever a large rough stone came heavily with a thud to the ground, would exclaim, ‘ Great was the fall thereof.’ This man was strong with the crowbar, and one day, as he was working with it, moving a large stone, his gigantic efforts broke the bar, and Mr. Keebles came to the ground among the loose stones of the wall. His serio-comic face alarmed us at first; but as his features relaxed gradually into a decided smile, one of his messmates applied to him his favourite quotation, ‘great was the fall thereof j’ given out in imitation of the voice and manner of Keebles. One stone of the great Salutarian inscription was extra large, and must have weighed quite four tons. Before it A quaint petty officer. 86 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Skill of workmen at the British Museum. Officers of the ‘Terrible.’ was removed from the walls I scarcely knew how to arrange about the conveyance of such a stone to the railway station, over about two miles of rough stony ground, as an extra strong cart would be needed for the purpose. But, as we removed it from the wall, it parted in two pieces, the bigger of which did not quite break down our cart, although many a groan escaped it on the way. That cart did good service, for it removed most of the stones from the ruins and the Temple, and was in active service to the very day on which the works were abandoned. A great number (I believe more than two hundred) fragments of this inscription had fallen upon the pave¬ ment, and were recovered only after the removal of the earth, debris, and huge blocks of marble with which the passage was encumbered. The workmen at the British Museum afterwards showed great aptitude in joining these pieces together, although they are unacquainted with the Greek language. I have often seen them trying sideways, or upside down, pieces for which they have ultimately found their proper places. I shall never forget the valuable help so willingly and so cheerfully given to me by Captain Commerell and Lieutenant Hallett. The former paid more than one visit to the ruins, and personally took charge of and superintended the packing of one or two of the most valuable stones. He also allowed me to have as many of his crew as I required to remove the stones from the ruins to the railway station, to pack them carefully in cases, THE OFFICERS OF H.M.S. ‘ TERRIBLE 87 made pardy by his carpenters at Ayasalouk, and to take them from the station at Smyrna on board ship. Twenty days, as I have said, were thus employed, During the whole of that time, Mr. Hallett remained patiently enduring the discomfort of our quarters, and with great skill and judgment assisting me in surmount¬ ing difficulties which only a visitor to Ephesus can quite appreciate. Suffice it to say that we had to remove many heavy blocks of marble from sundry parts of the ruins to which there were no roads, and where it was almost impossible to draw the cart, even without a load. Captain Commerell had originally intended giving all his lieutenants a turn with me at Ephesus ; but Mr. Hallett proved himself so expert at the work, and so ' pleasant a companion, that at my request he was allowed to remain. Captain, now Admiral, Commerell was one of the first sufferers in the Ashantee war, being grievously wounded with others in a small boat on the river. While the crew of the ‘Terrible’ were employed at Ephesus, I kept very few men at work, but increased the number as soon as they left, hiring a new ganger, a young Catholic of Smyrna, named Vitalis. This man, it turned out, had very little control over the men, and was just as likely to be found prostrated at full length on the ground near the works, as standing over the men doing his duty. During the time I was digging in the city, I had great difficulty in getting good workmen ; and my cavass (I had only one then) recommended a countryman of his, who, he said, would undertake to get me as many as I New ganger. 88 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Threats of violence. needed. Accordingly, I gave this man authority to bring me twenty men ; but, after an absence of two days, he brought me only eight, and of these only one was a workman, the rest being cafe-loungers and idlers, who never seriously work long at anything, a very few piastres sufficing to keep them in bread and tobacco for a month. The tall Albanian who brought me these miserable creatures, wanted to exact a sum per head for them, which would have brought his claim up to five or six dollars. I refused to give him more than one medjid or Turkish dollar. This he indignantly threw down on the table, but I obliged him to take it, and he left me, declaring with a terrible oath that he would have his revenue when I was off my guard. If what he told the station-master at Ayasalouk was true, he lay in wait for me for five successive evenings, as I passed home alone through the cemetery. My purpose in going alone was to show him that I was not afraid of him, and that there was no chance of his obtaining money from me by intimidation. I must confess that at the time I felt some anxiety for my safety, as I was told that this man had killed another for some trivial difference, and he often boasted how well he had escaped punishment for the murder by disguising himself. I saw nothing of him, however, although I had looked out sharply for him as I passed between the bushes in the cemetery, with my finger on the trigger of a revolver carried ready in my coat pocket. On the fifth night the man came into the cafe where the station-master was seated, and, breaking the stock of his gun as he threw it down, swore one of the fearful oaths in which such men indulge, de- THE THREAT OF AN ASSASSIN. daring he had not been able to catch me off my guard and get a shot at me. Mr. Cumberbatch, H.B.M.’s Consul at Smyrna, hear¬ ing of this, sent one of his cavasses, and had the man arrested and taken down to Smyrna, and he was sen¬ tenced to banishment for twelve months to Pergamos ; some of his kinsfolk and a fanatic priest being his surety. But now there arose a greater danger than before, for he had a bloodthirsty cousin living near me, who was em¬ ployed as a cavass on the railway, and who, a few months before, had shot a man dead in the presence of my inform¬ ant for a quarrel about five piastres ! This new antagonist, as I feared he might prove, came to see me, and asked me why I had had his cousin arrested, and seemed to go away satisfied when 1 told him he had threatened my life. Whether he was satisfied or not, he never attempted to molest me in any way, nor did I ever see him again, excepting on the occasion of riding with him and others one day on a trolly for a short distance. The labourers, employed from first to last on the excavations, have been of many nationalities, but were chiefly Turks, with a few Greeks. While I was exploring the Great Theatre with a force of seventy workmen, towards the close of the season 1867-8, a circumstance occurred, which more or less gratified my love of romance and adventure. One day, while my men were all at work in front of the Great Theatre, I went into the building alone to take some dimensions of the proscenium. I at once smelt a very unpleasant odour, which I attributed to the decomposition of some dead beast. I made no 9° DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Suspected murder! remark at the time to anyone, although this smell com¬ pelled me to leave my work undone. In the evening my ganger (Vitalis) came to my room, and with a solemn and mysterious manner asked me if I had not smelt a ‘ dread¬ ful smell ’ in the Theatre, and whether I had seen anything. On my replying that I had smelt something, but seen nothing, he said, ‘It’s a dead man, Sir!’ He then went on to relate all that had come to his knowledge. His statements seemed to show that the body of a man had been buried at the Theatre under very suspicious circumstances. One of our Turkish labourers, named Osman, the only man of the whole seventy, then in my employment, who was regular at his devotions, had that morning told my ganger that on the previous Tuesday (four days before) he had assisted some of his fellow-work¬ men to bury the body of a man at the Theatre, and that they had threatened to kill the Greeks, if they told me or any of the authorities. The ganger had feared to tell me of this when he first heard of it, feeling sure, he said, that I might incur danger by investigating the matter; but he had afterwards deter¬ mined to tell me, as he thought ‘ murders should not be hushed up, after the fashion of the country.’ 1 of course quite agreed with him, and ordered him to be in readiness in the morning with a gang of half-a-dozen men for the purpose of exhuming the body for examination, the cir¬ cumstances of his secret burial and the threats of the Turks against the Greeks being most suspicious. My suspicions were further increased by remembering that when I came down to the workmen that day from the THE VILLAGE OF KIRKENJEE. interior of the theatre, one of them had tried to persuade me to give up digging there, saying there were other buildings much more promising, whereas here I had taken all that could be found. The following morning (Sunday) was ushered in by such a storm of wind and rain as made it impossible for us to go to the Theatre. This gave me time to reflect, and I determined to avail myself of the advice and assist¬ ance, as well as of the authority, of the Mudir. I therefore rode up to Kirkenjee, the village where he lived, accom¬ panied by a zaptieh (a native policeman) and one of my cavasses. The appearance of this village strikes the person who approaches it for the first time as being very peculiar, the houses presenting a very formidable front from the radiating dabs of whitewash splashed around the windows, for the purpose, they say, of keep¬ ing off the ‘evil eye '—a common superstition in Asia Minor. The windows here were made to look like so many evil eyes, as I thought, glaring at you, and defying you to enter the village. This fashion gives a beggarly appearance to the houses, which are built of small stones, and covered with flat mud roofs. Kirk¬ enjee, however, is not so poor a place as it seems to be. The inhabitants are industrious, and cultivate the ground in the plain of Ephesus and for miles around. On feast days the women turn out clad in comfortable and smart dresses of light colours, and make a great display of gold coins, which they string and wear as armlets and necklaces. As we entered the village, a wedding party thronged out of the church gate, the bridegroom smothered by the congra- 92 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. A Greek marriage. Longevity! Arrest of workmen. tulatory embraces of his male friends ; the bride, blushingly happy, walking modestly behind, supported by two elderly matrons, probably the mothers of the newly married pair. The inhabitants of this village are said to be descended from the ancient inhabitants of Ephesus, who moved in a body to the more healthy abodes high up in the mountain, about two hundred years ago. The oldest inhabitant recently died, at the age, it is said, of 153 years ! The Mudir came from his house, and met me at the Konak. He at once promised to give me all the help in his power, and rode down with me to Ayasalouk, accom¬ panied by four zaptiehs armed with their guns, pistols, and yataghans. Although we were only six to seventy, we did not anticipate any resistance. At the same time we formed our plans for securing our prisoners, for the Mudir agreed with me that it would be necessary to arrest all the most suspicious of the workmen. As we ap¬ proached the village of Ayasalouk, the zaptiehs separated, and hurried on in different directions, leaving the Mudir and myself to ride along the ordinary road unattended. Night was fast coming on, and the short twilight favoured our plan. We entered the village without alarming those of my workmen whom we found in the cafes drinking or smoking. Having arrested and secured all whom we sus¬ pected here, we obtained six or seven lengths of rope, and a lantern, and proceeded on our way to take the remainder at their sleeping places among the ruins. It was quite dark when we reached the first of them, and thus, as our numbers could not be ascertained, the men made no attempt at resistance, and we arrested them as we A SUPPOSED MURDER. 93 found them, gang after gang, in the vaults and caverns, and tied them together, in groups of six or seven, to the number of thirty-six including the prisoners taken in the village. By the time all this was done, we had reached the front of the Great Theatre. The police then lighted the torches they had brought with them, and some of my workmen proceeded to exhume the body of the mur¬ dered man. This was no easy task, for the body had been deposited five or six feet below the surface, and large stones had been heaped upon it. Two good hours were spent in getting at it, and when it was taken out, its ad¬ vanced state of decomposition left the exact manner of his death as much a mystery as before. The body was there¬ fore replaced, and we started for Ayasalouk with our prisoners. As I was the only person thoroughly ac¬ quainted with all the holes and pitfalls I had dug on our road, I was obliged to lead the way, while the others followed me as closely as possible. Our march was per¬ formed in perfect silence. The following morning I visited the prisoners, one half of whom were crowded into the small room occupied by the police, while the others stood about the porch, closely watched. The Mudir’s secretary was engaged in taking down their names on a long strip of paper, before their departure as prisoners for Scala Nova. They were then again strongly tied together in five or six gangs, and so marched off with an armed escort, headed by the Mudir, who promised to bring them all back to their work the next day, after their examination by the Kaimachan (Governor). In the meantime I endeavoured Murdered man ex¬ humed. Prisoners. 94 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. I Patience I of the Mudir. State of the | country. to supply their places by other men, as the elders of the village told me I must not expect my men to be returned to me for a long time. On the fourth day the Mudir re¬ turned with a message from the Kaimachan to the effect that he would like to see me. I therefore started off with the Mudir and a zaptieh. On the way to Scala Nova the Mudir had an opportunity of showing the excellence of his temper, for on attempting to pass by the lower bridle path at the foot of the rocky steep on which ‘ St. Paul’s Prison ’ stands, the ground proved so swampy that his horse nearly disappeared beneath him, and he had to disengage himself as quickly as possible to get out of the slough. Horse, rider, saddle-bags, and all were covered with thick mud, but ‘ Zara yok ’ (no matter) were the only words that escaped the patient Mudir. On reaching the first road-side caf6, which had the usual fountain and a plentiful supply of spring water, he spent more than half an hour in washing the mud off his clothes, his horse, and trappings. On approaching Scala Nova we fell in with a dozen armed zaptiehs, who had been out all night in search of robbers, the country being at that time infested by many bands of Greeks from Crete, who, having deserted the cause they had engaged to fight for, came, formidably armed with breechloaders, to the coast of Asia Minor. Here the mountains afforded them a safe retreat from the pursuit of the police, while they could swoop down from their hiding places upon any unfortunate travellers who might happen to pass within reach of them. On arriving at the Konak we were shown up into an THE PRISONERS BEFORE THE RAIMA CHAN. 95 antechamber, where we were served with coffee. Some of the officials here took great interest in examining my revolver, as if it was the first they had ever seen. In due time we were shown into the Council Chamber, where we found the Kaimachan, the Mollah, and some of the Medjilis seated, with their legs crossed under them, on low, wide divans against the walls. My reception was the usual flattering one given to Europeans by Turkish gentlemen. A Turk is well pleased if he can speak any European language, however imper¬ fectly ; in this case, the Kaimachan knew a few words of German, and at the same time that he indicated which seat I should take, he said ‘ Sitzen sie.’ From compli¬ ments we soon passed to the unpleasant business which had brought us together. The thirty-six prisoners having been ranged along the wall at the lower end of the room, I called over all their names, at the request of the Kai¬ machan, and recognised them man by man. The first man so called was motioned out by the Kaimachan. Seeing his plan, I gave them the same sign one by one, till they had all left the room. ‘ And now,’ said the Kaimachan, ‘ do you suspect any one of these men of having committed the murder ? ’ As I had suspected one man more than the rest only because my ganger had expressed his dislike of him, and because this man had done his best to avoid arrest by secreting himself, I felt that I had no real evidence against him. Not choosing to give utterance to my suspicions, I asked the Kaimachan whether he had obtained evidence against any of the men. As he said he had not, I requested him to let me take Reception at Konak. 9 6 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Liberation of the prisoners. Return to Ephesus. Murder made easy. them all with me back to the Excavations: and to this he consented, evidently glad to be rid of them. Having taken my leave of the Kaimachan and the other officials, I descended into the court-yard, where my men were standing in groups, waiting to hear what had been decided respecting them. There was not a little exultation among the poor fellows when I told them they were free. I saw the place where they had been kept in durance vile. It was a dirty stable without light or air, without beds, and even without straw; and only a few of the men had taken a small bundle of rags to pillow their heads upon. Wretched as their lodging was I had to pay for it. We all returned together along the sea-shore to Ephesus, the men showing their delight by racing with my horse, or chasing one another into the sea, and gamboling like children as they ran along. I so far humoured them in their sport as to allow some of the most active of them to get to the Great Theatre before me, and as I passed on they gave a hearty cheer. The murder, I need scarcely say, was never found out. The victim was probably some poor unknown wayfarer ; and all that we could ascertain about him was that he was not a Turk, his hair being very long and thick. I was told in Smyrna that I might expect to be the next victim, if I took any steps to track murderers and bring them to justice. Cowardly murders are often committed in the streets of Smyrna, and the murderer is almost always allowed to escape until, after the lapse of a few months, he returns to his usual work as if nothing had happened, and no one attempts to interfere with him. THE STADIUM. 97 CHAPTER V. Stadium—Grand Entrance—Tyrants’ Palace—Serapion—Double Church— Another Church—Roman Temple — Destructive Turk—Prytaneum — Porticos—Mosaic Pavements—Opistholeprian Gymnasium—The Pnyx —Castle at Ayasalouk-—Hippodrome—Roman Aqueduct — Modern Greeks—Hard Times—Curious Letters—Complaints of the Landowners. Before leaving the city and working our way to the Temple, I must refer briefly to some of the remains of the public buildings in the city, not hitherto described in this book. Beginning at the Coressian Gate, we have near to it, on the south side, the Stadium, built probably in the time of Augustus. The total length of this building, including the Theatre at the east end, is 850 feet ; the exact width cannot be exactly stated, the south side being entirely de¬ stroyed, but it exceeded 200 feet. In the Theatre, which formed part of the building, the gladiatorial games were probably exhibited. The seats of the Stadium were raised upon arched sub-structures on the north side, and on the solid rock on the south side, where they appear to have been more numerous. As many seats as existed on the north side, were continued around the circular end eastward. Every fragment of these seats has been carried away ; but in the Theatre many of them remain The Stadium. II 98 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Grand Entrance. Tyrant’s Palace. in position. The western end of the Stadium was adorned by an open columniated screen in two tiers. The bases of the lower columns still remain in position. On the north side of the Stadium there was a double colonnade, which ran parallel with it for its whole length, and formed probably not only a grand entrance to the city, but also a promenade for the spectators in the Stadium, from the terrace of which steps probably de¬ scended every 50 feet, the vomitoria (doors of exit) of the Stadium being that distance apart The shafts of the columns of the colonnade were of grey granite; the re¬ mainder of white marble. This structure belongs pro¬ bably to the same date as the Stadium. To the north of the colonnade there are considerable remains of a grand public building about 250 feet square, which Mr. Falkener has styled the Gymnasium of the Stadium. I excavated against the front wall; but as I did not succeed in finding any inscriptions, I will not venture to say positively what building it was. It may have been the Tyrant’s Palace, but I think it could not have been a gymnasium. On the north side of this building, which is here raised on very lofty arched sub-structures, the sea, as many have supposed, approached the city. I have, however, shown that if at any time there was water here, it must have been brought by a canal, like the one constructed between the river Cayster and the City Port. The lofty sub-structures are supposed by some to have been grana¬ ries ; but they reminded me forcibly of the Chambers for soldiery at Hadrian’s Villa near Tivoli, in imitation of Caesar’s Palace in Rome. THE SERAPION. 99 Opposite the Stadium, westward, is a truncated rocky mound, on which Mr. Falkener with good reason places the Serapion. The levelled portion of the rock, which is of marble, gives an area of 250 square feet, in the centre of which is the circular rock-cut foundation of a lar^e altar with four broad flights of steps and three piers for columns between each flight. The quadrangle appears Serapion Altar to have been surrounded on all sides by small cells or chambers, and the whole arrangement resembles that of the Serapion at Pozzuoli, near Naples. The Double Church, on the north side of the Forum, next claims our attention. It was probably one of the earliest Christian churches in Ephesus, and may have been built soon after the destruction of the Temple. The Double Church. IOO DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. Another church. j Roman temple. eastern church is built entirely of stone; the western church is chiefly of brick. Both are terminated at the east end by an apse. The ruins of another church are to be seen at some distance up the northern slope of Mount Prion, not far from the ruins of a beautiful Roman temple, which is a Double Church conspicuous object above the Agora. This Roman temple was of fine white marble, the fluted monolothic columns were thirty-nine feet long, and the entablature was richly sculptured. This beautiful ruin was an object of the greatest interest to visitors, and was allowed to remain undisturbed, until a Turk obtained permission from the authorities some years ago to take marble from the SIZE OF THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS. ruins of Ephesus, and he carried off a great portion of the remains of this building. Before attempting to remove some of the columns, he chopped off the flutings, and by similar means lightened many of the large blocks he wanted for the unsightly mosque which he was building in Smyrna. He thus disfigured this beautiful ruin and left it covered with marble chippings from the blocks he carried away, and the ruin is no longer interesting. This man carried on his work of destruction in the large mosque IOI Destruc¬ tive Turk The Ruins of the Prytaneum. at Ayasalouk, removing the extremely beautiful Kibleh and some highly ornamental marble slabs from the pulpit and other parts of the building. After all his trouble and expense, he was not allowed to use the stones which he had taken from the mosque, and which remain to this day at the railway station and in some of the narrow streets of Smyrna near his mosque. I was told that the mosque was built at the expense of a rich Turk, who undertook it as an act of devotion. 102 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. The Pry- taneum. Porticos. Mosaic pave¬ ments. Opistho leprian Gymna¬ sium. On the east side of the Forum and near the great Theatre there are the remains of a very fine stone building which I believe was either the Prytaneum or the Curia. It is about 250 feet square, which is, singularly enough, the | size of many of the public buildings in the city. The solid i piers of masonry, of which many remain, are particularly well built of large blocks of marble. It was probably erected about the same time as the great Gymnasium, which I assign to the first century of the Christian era. All around the Forum there appears to have been a colonnade, some of the slender granite shafts of which remain standing to this day. There was also an upper portico on the east side of the Agora, used probably as a promenade by the better classes of the Ephesians on the days of assembly in the Theatre, of which it is apparently an adjunct. This portico was paved with tesserae, and each compartment between the piers was of a different pattern, resembling both in design and workmanship the style of the houses at Pompeii. Visitors to Ephesus have wan¬ tonly destroyed both this and another mosaic pavement found near the surface close to the Magnesian Gate. I have, in another part of this book, alluded to the manner in which visitors to the ruins of Ephesus destroyed any antiquities left on the surface. In the case of these Mosaic pavements the disposition to destroy for mere destruction’s sake is more evident, the tesserae having been picked up and left loose on the spot. The Opistholeprian Gymnasium or Thermae near the Magnesian Gate is similar in plan to the Gymnasia at Alexandria Troas, and at Tralles. It is a building of the - ♦ . - ROMAN MOSAIC PAVEMENT, N R MAGNESIAN GATE. REMAINS OF PORTICOS. io.i first century, about 250 feet square, and is surrounded by an ample diaulos, decorated on the south side by a screen with marble figures of Persians nearly 11 feet high. One of these was found prostrate near its original position ; the head, hands, and feet are missing, and these were probably of coloured marble. The remains of many other porticos and colonnades at Ephesus appear still above ground ; but without extensive excavations, their position, direc¬ tion, and extent cannot be ascertained. The ancient Greek Fort on the hill near the canal leading to the City Port, and commonly called St. Paul’s Prison, consists of two stories, each containing four rooms St. Paul’s Prison. io 4 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. opening into one another: the upper story was approached by wide external stone steps, similar to those leading up to the walls of the city on Mount Prion. The In the swampy ground north of the city, and about Pnyx. I eighty yards distant from the wall, I found what I think must have been the Pnyx of Ephesus. Here was a large standing about eight feet above the present surface of the ground. There is a bema or platform and steps ascend¬ ing to it, facing the city wall; I was strongly reminded by it of the Pnyx at Athens. The hill at Ayasalouk is surmounted by a large castle which was to a great extent rebuilt by the Turks on the southern side. There are considerable remains also of a AGE OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS. I0 5 large public building of the same character as the building in the city near the Stadium. A very large area remains unexplored between the double church on the north side of the Forum and the city wall. Here might have stood the Hippodrome of Ephesus, if such a building ever existed. It is my opinion that the majority of the public build¬ ings referred to in this chapter may be attributed to the time of Augustus and Tiberius. The Roman aqueduct which conveyed water to the city of Ephesus from, the mountain on the road to Magnesia ad Maeandrum, traversed the ravine of the pass from east to west, and was there built upon arches in the time of Tiberius, as shown by an inscription upon the structure. A view of this is given in ‘Falkener’s Ephesus;’ it forms a pretty architectural feature in the Ephesus pass and it was near this that the Chalet I lived in was situated. My change of residence from the Chalet in this lonely place to the house at Ayasalouk was the commencement of a new phase in my life in those parts, and being close to the railway station, I witnessed many a scene amongst the natives which was more or less amusing and interesting. Large parties of Greeks, con¬ sisting sometimes of several families, came to Ayasalouk on their way between Smyrna and Scala Nova. Sometimes they were simply passing through to some festival at Scio or elsewhere, sometimes they were migrating from one place to another, and had all their furniture and personal belongings with them ; the men and women mounted on sorry beasts that could scarcely be called horses, the Castle at Ayasa¬ louk. The Hip¬ podrome. Roman Aqueduct. Modern Greeks. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. women sitting astride on a pillow and holding the children in front of them. They generally allowed ample time for a hearty meal from the baskets which they carried with them, and having placed the provisions on the ground they grouped themselves around them in large parties and dipped their bread in the same dish of sour milk or olive oil. There is in the modern Greek a peculiar sort of kindheartedness which I should regret leaving un¬ mentioned : they have great sympathy for one another in cases of illness or any kind of affliction, and three genera¬ tions can live together contentedly under the same roof and with one common mdnage for all. Respect for elders, which is quickly disappearing from amongst us in England is still customary with the Greeks and Turks. I have seen a child on being introduced to an elderly Turkish gentle¬ man, approach him with reverence, take his hand, kiss it, raise it to her forehead, and then gently release it. I leave the reader to contrast this with the happy (?) results of our boasted civilization. When I first resided at Ayasalouk, which was early ' in the year 1868, my mdnage was of the most unpretend¬ ing description ; and although I had provided myself with a cook, I was often without meat, when the fasts, which he religiously observed, made hirq indifferent to the con¬ tents of our larder. Sometimes my neighbour the station- master had more meat than he wanted, and was glad to find a customer for the surplus. The station-master’s wife, who was a kind-hearted woman, knowing the care¬ lessness ot my cook, often asked the man what his master had for dinner. One evening, when she made AMUSING LETTERS. this interesting inquiry, the man appears to have been in a bad humour, and replied rudely, the result of which was the following letter from her :— 107 ‘ Memorandum to Wood Esq. ‘8/i, 1868. ‘ Dr. Sir,—Hearing from Mr. C- that you have asked him about a piece of pork or beef, if we could spare, I therefore though (Sir) of asking your Cook if, you had anything for supper, and if not I could spare very little of what we had for ourselves, but by the bad manner your man replied to my question, it astonished me, saying in a great voice (that could be heard to a great distance) do I know what Mr. Wood does , do not bother me. ‘ I sure you Sir that if I have been a man to the way the impudent beger replied I would serve him well, please give him to understan that he has not to deal with his own sort. ‘You are welcome to a piece of roased pork if you desire. ‘Yours truly, ‘ Mrs. C-, ‘ To Mr. Wood, Excavator of Ephesus.’ I Curious letters. Mr. and Mrs. C. were natives of Corfu, and had therefore' acquired some little knowledge of English. It appears that at one time one of my people had without my leave set up a bakal’s shop to supply the workmen, and this was made known to me by a letter from the bakal, which shall speak for itself:— io8 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. ‘ Ayassalook: 7/2/71. i ‘ Wood, Esq. ‘ Dear Sir,—If you’ll have to ask me for why I did not gave breads to your men I’ll beg to inform you that in concequence that your man-many times made me loss money from many workmen of yours whenever they were to leave your service he should I think have my Self adviced for to ask my money but he always is doing the contrary expresly for to make me loss money. Please take note also that he has doned a ware¬ house and supplis all the provisions except the bread and I have told him in present of the Station Master here that I would prefer to give him as many Sacks of flour he want for to give them all bread, because I am sorry to say that I cannot have for forty breads three Servanz and horse more. I leave it to your Kind Self to have it arrangt as am poor and I like to have friends and not enemies.’ Another letter from the Greek Bakal. ‘ Dear Sir, — In Same time I beg to inform you that as to-day in your presenz (name omitted) insulted me by ! calling me Iyer I cannot axcept it, as I work just now fourteen years on the Ottoman Railway Company and never heard such words (in reproach). ‘ Please in future get some body other to supply your ! men with breads and oblige and if the other one has not flour, for these few days I can promise to him presently five sacks— ‘ Yours servant, ‘ Elias Danos.’ REPORT OF THE COUNCIL. 109 One of the Ephesian landowners lived at Scala Nova, and was on friendly terms with the Kaimachan of that place. He therefore prevailed upon him to send a com¬ plaint to the Pasha of Smyrna, with the view of putting- a stop to my excavations in the open plain. The Pasha forwarded the document to our Consul, who immediately favoured me with a copy of it to guide me in my pro¬ ceedings. The following is a translation of this docu¬ ment, dated July 28, 1870 :— ‘ The Council of the country in question alleging by a Magbata that Mr. Wood, an English subject searching for antiquities in the district of Ayasalouk, has laid waste the lands of many cultivators, they have demanded the execution of what is necessary. ‘ Some days since Ahmed Bey, member of the Council for the proceedings, and Costandi Effendi, member of the Council of the administration, have been sent on business to the aforesaid country, have seen with their own eyes the land dug by Mr. Wood. Taking into consideration their report chiefly on the land situated in the neighbour¬ hood of the said country, between three, five, and eight steps, and from three to ten pikes deep, are dug wells, and to close the wells dug in each piece of land, from one to two thousand piastres must be spent, and without filling up the aforementioned wells it is impossible to cultivate the aforementioned land. ‘ As the cultivation of the land has remained all be¬ hind to sow sesame and maize, they can no longer sow it. Whenever the agriculturist asks the aforesaid Mr. Wood to fill up the aforesaid wells, he allows the time to pass Com¬ plaints of the land- owners. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. under various pretences, and every day he makes forty or sixty workmen work on the land of this one or that one, and the marbles and antiquities which he finds he takes away, and immediately shuts them up in boxes without letting anyone see them, and sends them to Smyrna by railway. ‘ This being verified, has been told to us as being a great drawback to the agriculturists. ‘ Will you take into consideration that this does great harm to the interests of the agriculturists; and that you may see it more clearly, we submit to you also the Mag- bata of the aforesaid Council. The execution of what is necessary depends on the opinion of your adviser. It is for this we take the liberty of presenting to you the present Magbata—on this subject, as on all occasions, it belongs to him who has the right to command.’ I may here add that I was not compelled to discon¬ tinue my explorations, nor to fill up the holes I had dug when this communication was made to the Pasha of Smyrna ; but I afterwards filled up of my own accord most of the holes to which the complaint referred. THE MAGNESIAN GATE. in CHAPTER VI. The Magnesian Gate—The River Manias—Road to Temple—Road to Magnesia—Interesting Tombs—-Ancient Wood Carving—Coressian Gate —Plan of Exploration —Discovery of the Portico of Damianus—Hin¬ drances, Difficulties, and Dangers—Journeying from England—Con¬ tinuance of Works —Sarcophagi—Contents of Sarcophagi—Columbaria— Sepulchral Recesses—Quarries—Via Sacra—Miscellaneous Antiquities — Inscriptions—Sepulchre of Androclus—A Sharp-witted Ganger—Hopes and Fears —Discovery of Road leading to Temple—Difficulties—Works Stopped by the Turks—The Prince and Princess of Wales—The Mudir -—Works Resumed—Supplementary Grant—Peribolos Wall of Temenos Discovered —Interesting Inscriptions—Success—More Inscriptions—In¬ teresting Historical Facts Confirmed—Contract Work—Letter of Con¬ gratulation — False Alarm— Brigands— Narrow Escapes — Intriguing Mudir—Amusing Memorial—Telegrams—Curious Letter—Works Sus¬ pended. Having found the Magnesian and Coressian Gates, mentioned in the great Salutarian inscription, I set as many men to work as I could spare from the great Theatre, to open up the roads leading from these gates outside the City. In doing this I had to clear a large space near the Magnesian Gate, which I found had con¬ sisted of three openings, one of which was for the use of foot passengers, the other two for chariots and waggons. This gate was fortified by large loop-holed towers which flanked it on both sides. The whole of the superstruc¬ ture of the gate had fallen on the pavement, leaving the piers standing only 7 or 8 feet high. The pavement re- The Mag¬ nesia a Gate. 1 I 2 DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. The river Mamas. mained intact, with deeply cut chariot-ruts as at Pompeii. On the two central piers crosses had been cut, like those at the Theatre and other public buildings in the City ; showing that the Christians in those days could exbibit the emblem of their new faith without fear of persecution, as they could not have done in the time of Trajan and Pliny. On the front of one of the central piers was sculp¬ tured a small bas -relief of Nemesis, the Goddess of Re¬ tribution, with the long wings and wheels symbolical of the swiftness of her vengeance. This work has unfortu¬ nately been destroyed by visitors to the ruins. I was afterwards assured that these barbarians were some of the passengers of an English boat, but I did not believe it. I examined all the blocks of stone which had formed the superstructure of the gate, in search of an inscription which would give certain information as to its name; but I found only a line or two with the name of the Emperor Vespasian, in whose time the gate had probably been re¬ erected. I also found near the gate a large block which probably formed part of the superstructure; on this was carved the subject of our wood-cut, which I have sup¬ posed may represent Peace and War. Near the gate and outside of it, was found the in¬ scribed pedestal which had probably supported a figure of the River Marnas, and which informs us that the water of that river Avas here brought into the City. Before the discovery of this inscription we had only known of the existence of this river in the Plain of Ephesus by some ancient copper coins of the time of Domitian, and its Avhereabouts in the plain was unknown. We can now THE RIVER MARNAS. fix its position with tolerable accuracy. It was probably the river which took its rise in the Ephesus Pass, and fell into the river Selinus, somewhere between the Mag¬ nesian Gate and Ayasalouk. The figure on the coin is hel meted. Immediately outside the gate, on the south side, there were the remains of an extremely handsome sarcophagus I ornamented with festoons of fruit and flowers, supported by boys,and inscribed with the name Polycarpos accompanied Peace and War. by a cross. I also found near the gate two sun-dials, one entirely of marble, the other of stone with an iron gnomon. I had to clear a wide space, for the distance of 140 feet outside the gate, before I reached the point where the road bifurcated, one branch of it leading around Mount Coressus towards Ayasalouk, the other towards the Ephesus Pass, and onward to Magnesia ad Maeandrum. It was this latter road that gave the name to the gate. ii4 Road to Temple. Road to Mag- [nesia. DISCOVERIES AT EPHESUS. I soon determined which of these two roads was more likely to lead to the Temple. The road leading - to Ayasa- louk, thirty-five feet in width, and paved with immense blocks of marble and limestone, was very deeply worn into four distinct ruts, showing the constant passing and repass¬ ing of chariots and other vehicles. The road leading to Magnesia, on the other hand, showed little or no wear, the marks of wheels being scarcely discernible. Along the sides of this road, however, I found some very interesting tombs and monuments, and I therefore opened it up for the distance of nine hundred yards, beyond which there seemed to be no tombs or sarcophagi. SEPULCHRAL LNSCRLPTLONS. One of the most curious tombs discovered here was that of D. Publicius Fructus, who was a Lictor of the Proconsul Fonteius Agrippa. In a large sunk panel are carved the fasces, and an axe surmounted by the head of (f)6/3o