m WILLIAM NUTTER, m -^^^-^ (UL^^^dA=^^,^^^^ — ^^ImX42c^ i>tdl l- VvUL-p 80. Da) -.LSi^he ?0i "to Oi eppefn I I m 5: m c *> o cr > V m V > > 7^ > > > r-v C V > n m c a n ■V o x^ CD 00 PI > d CI n ¥ X V > ^ > s: V n > 00 5 ? F o < 0- > > wA > */^ > X ^ < o V^V v> < .. c >^ if ^< > ^ 11/ < > - I- ^ «-^ — X > X > 3 o c I- r X " z < V < o CQ •»* m - h- rn J- ' m > JL <^ ^ A/ ;t -^ ■^ C -4fl^fl- -OOfi /;7/»' u s CA.x i.\ sen//' rjo.x s. A!i oa A^f^ I <3 A V .vr',;. 5i^>\^ ^.V|O^38^^:a^g >i> :q>/^QV3 ; 3>3^i3^<:^>l^3<^ Tfl Ivi AH . . •■ lA^ FA k^KA KDTAFoS; r^l Aft liAA FA rTAtH^^A/^AKTOieAAE 8ABA- A^f(«>e/cvM^:pR,iTAPol;Ki5AHi AF'pi-o^;^iKe^rer*'<»r'i e:a a^^ y: J/. ^1 MY3Y: V N13 HI: vm A>a o VMfl:>3 PHIs/U . H-H3X n/.SENTIA sex.f ?3lV3flH4N/V83i-y3fl AnvlAloq/flO Q.FOJLNIVS- AFPOM FVSCV-S AX T .-Viq. n^q-t-. A Aulus Tirhius aij I. XV " LART. C/^ll-cAVLlAS ."\'''.v/ y"2.', .Vf'i^r fls^?»^flM"^A3 NAT ADY3FNY N»'or\yy»>ATEl PJENP FPT^ t^-y: rP.+AP+- TEA 'N EME :+Pr r 6APAE'>+ B E 54-rEa-^EM/N:AKBEl'>-5':Ei<^:EAAe;TEK/^.ri*l5|; The Cinck EPIY. .. . .A ■/<> 3IHI^ 30^03 XXI . viq . V53V. ::«« (//■A 111. L Bill All Ul. Tin- woiil RU is Tised forArmos w for visit, in this inscrtfitimi, as weD as inN?33. 3>3WTVnAM Maixiis I^Jllll( ins y.'.v. s/AiiqAV:V3_3q-jtV l,ars PrvtTi, l.ai'is ImIims. 3:/fl-t B V V'v;:.' MV-1KV1/-1 : x/fl ? \qflj-. fliVI ^ V ^ \/ CAIUJ.FAXIVS. LF. STE.HARU5PE.FVLCVRIATOR VAR7; VM3H-. IOVM.A73 CLI CI Nl. c .F. N ic R I a3H J3>i •:! >/ a HI iO 9 ^Mfl MIOV31 •Hl-^fl^'1 ^fl3^ rtifl V q fl D03/av'? M« HV8flflV+M l31flMH30fll^l^f1"*^3MM/>q 31Mfl1flMftq VOflMIO/^^ll^ Yqfl\/\/TVT3l3'^ VDVflwf'iMflmov/^aq •IM^ vv'ft 3-\/H3>flnv:,Mv'io 110 iH m3 N|^HV8flMv/ftO<1/)^DIv/3 8 On/I VclJ page 4(J0 # # HtfiJiafke iM* ■ Q TOPOGRAPHY OF ROME, Sfc. Abbatone. A HILL situated between Caere or Cervetere;, and Castel Giuliano. It is a conical and Avoody mount, separated by the Amnis Cneretanus from the range of hills, called in the Map, Lucus Silvani. At its foot, the road from Caere to Careja, and that from Alsium to Sutri, (of which the pavement and many tombs may be traced,) intersected each other. The site is so remarkable, that it is highly probable ruins, or at least tombs, might be discovered upon it. La Ferriera is a spot on the oppo- site side of the torrent, where there is a glen with sepulchres and tombs, and where vases are not unfre- quently found. Probably the wood, with which the place abounds, Mas the motive for the erection of an iron forge in this situation, Avhence the name was appa- rently derived. The road from Cervetere to Castel Giuliano, by La Ferriera, is very pleasant ; and indeed nothing can be more delightful than this woody region of Faunus and Silvanus, which extends from Mount Abbatone to Tolfa, and thence, almost without inter- ruption, to the forest of the Mons Ciminus, between Eonciglione and Yiterbo. Yirgil alludes to it, ^neid viii. 597: '"Est ingens gelidum lucus prope Caeritis amnem." Agylla is the name given by the Creek writers to Caere. Lycophron speaks of its grove abounding in sheep. " 'A^vWt^s 6' di iroXvpprjvoL vdirac."'' Cassand. 1241. B- ADB ACQUA ACETOSA. A mineral spring, situated near the left bank of the Tjber, about one mile and a half from the Flaminian Gate, or Porta del Popolo. It is frequented, on account of its purgative qualities, particularly during the summer heats, by the lower classes of the Romans. The nearest way to it is through the tunnel, called Arco Scuro, near the villa of Papa Giulio. It is also accessible by a road running to the right, along the meadows from the Ponte Molle. AcQUA AcETOSA. Another mineral spring upon the Yia Ardeatina, near Yalerano. Xear it, there is a bed of lava, which contains curious crystals. AcQUA Santa. A spring, with an appropriate building, situated to the right of the post-road to Albano, beyond the second mile. It is near the road which turns out of the Yia Appia, at the fifth mile, and which falls into it again at San Sebastiano. There was a fountain of Mercury in the neighbourhood, but it w^as perhaps nearer to the Appian Way, and to the Porta Capena. AcQUA Sena. One of the many streams that seem by their course to serve as subterraneous emissaries to the Lake of Bracciano. This brook falls into the Tyber on its right bank, after passing under the road to Porto, at Ponte Galera. AcQUA Traversa. A stream rising in a woody hollow, at a short dis- tance from Rome, about five miles to the left of the Yia Cassia. It crosses this road near the third mile- stone, and the Flaminian Way near the Torre Quinto ; and falls into the Tyber with the Marrana. Ad Baccanas, or Baccano. . The Itinerary of Antoninus gives twenty-one miles ADC 3 as the distance of Ad Baccanas from Eome. It is there described as on the Clodian Way: the places are, however, all on the Cassian. Roma. Baccanas .... XXI Sutrio ..... XII Forum Cassi .... XI As this place was at one time a Mutatio, it could not have been upon the high hill between Campagnano and Baccano, but was on the road, and not far from the modern post at Baccano. It is not easy to say how much of the lake had then been drained, for the road even yet describes a semicircle in the crater ; but sepul- chral excavations are seen in the rock at the twentieth mile, answering to the ancient twenty- one miles; the habitations might have been on the hill above. Some have imagined a temple of Bacchus upon the hiU of Baccano, as some ruins exist there, Avhicli Zanchi thought those of Yeii. The numerous emissaries which have been cut from the lake in ancient and modern times, and which at length have almost drained it into the Fosso, near La Madonna del Sorbo, are worth examining. They are cut in the mountain at about the eighteenth mile, and the last great deep cutting is near the inn, half a mile before the post-house. Other roads have issued from it in ancient times, through deep incisions made in the lip of the crater; and that toward the Lacus Alsietinus, near Monte St. Angelo, which has the appearance of a camp, is particularly observable. Ad Carejas. A Mutatio on the Via Flaminia, in the vicinity of the town of Galeria, or Careiai. The Itinerary of Antoninus, and the Peutingerian Tables, give fifteen miles as its distance from Eome. It may therefore be supposed to have been near the site of the Osteria i^uova on the Arrone, which is at the fifteenth modern mile; or rather of the house standing between Casal ISTuovo and the Osteria ^uova, on the left of the road to Bracciano. B 2 4 ADL Ad Gallinas. "Villa C^esarum sic dicta, fiuvio Tiberi imposlta, jiixta noniim lapidem ab iirbeYia Flaminia." — Orfelius. The terrace whicli supported this villa remains ; [it con- sists of reticulated masonry.] The imperial residence was so called, because a domestic fowl, with a branch of laurel in its mouth, fell from the claws of an eagle into the lap of Livia Drusilla, the Avife of Augustus. The omen was considered favourable, and the laurel was planted, and grew to a considerable size. The terrace, with its buttresses, may yet be seen about one hundred yards beyond the houses called Prima Porta, on the Via Flaminia, and is marked in the Map. It may be best observed by going along the valley of the Tyber, by what was probably called the Via Tiberina, and which is passable for carriages as far as Scorano, near Fiano. It is probable that the imperial villa, Ad Gallinas, might repay the cost of excavation, for there seems to l)e much remaining below the soil. The situa- tion is agreeable, and Rome may be seen from it, as well as a long tract of the vale of the Tyber and Caste? Giubileo. Ad Helephantas. A place in the Silva Laurentina, Avhere the Roman emperors kept elephants for the games. (Vide Ardea.) It was probably on the site of what is now called Campo Bufalaro, near Porcigliano. Ad Laminas, or Lamin.e, or Ad Lamnas. A small place on the Via Valeria, near the ri^er Anio, between that river and Bardella. There are yet vestiges of the walls of the town, constructed with irre- gular blocks. It was in the region of the ^Equi. The villages of Cantalupo and Bardella, the ancient Man- dela, occupy a height above the site of Lamina? ; near the Osteria of Frattocchie is a read, deviating from the carriage road, a little to the left, running between two small knolls. It was here that the town stood. The walls may still be seen. The place is, hoAvever, scarcely knoAvn in history, and offers in itself but little that is interesting. ADP Ad Pictas, or Ad Pictas Tabernas. A place at the point where the Yia Labicana fell into the Yia Latina, not far from the present Lngnano. Ad Pictas was ten miles beyond Ad Qnintanas, and if Quintanas Avere at the Osteria, under Colonna, as written in the Map, in compliance with the received opinion, Ad Pictas would have been where the road from Yelletri to Lugnano crosses the Yia Latina, at Fontane delle jMacere. The Osteria, near Colonna, however, is not less than seventeen miles from the ancient gate of Eome. It is more probable, therefore, that Ad Quintanas occupied the spot marked in the MajD, XY., Avhere a small population was estal^lished, Lavicani Quintanenses. Ten miles beyond this would bring us to that marked in the IMap, Labica Eomana, a name which, in sound, differs but little from A^ia Eomana Labicana. This name of Labica Eomana is by the peasantry attached to certain ruins not far from the \m Latina, nearly a mile above the junction of the two ancient roads ; that falling in from the left may or may not be the Labican. ISTo great reliance, however, can be placed on the correctness of the Eoman peasants. The distances, as given in the Itinerary of the Labican Eoad, are " Ad Quintanas, XY; Ad Pictas, X;" and in the Peutingerian Tables, "Ad Quintanas, XY; Ad Statuas, III ; Ad Pictas, YII." These agreeing in making the distance twenty-five miles, it is strange that the more direct way to the same Ad Pictas, by the Yia Latina, should be set down as thirty-three in one account, and as thirty in another. This is making a right line between two points, longer than a curve. In the Antonine Tables the Latin AYay is thus noted : " Ad Decimum, X ; Eoboraria, \1 ; Ad Pictas, XYII. Thirty-three IM. P. ;" or, according to some MSS., "Ad Decimum, X; Eoboraria, III ; Ad Pictas, XYII." Thirty M. P. Strabo gives 210 stadia, or twenty-six miles, as the distance ; this, if he speaks of the Yia Latina, would place Ad Pictas at the junction of the four roads, under the Avord Monte Fortino on the Map. StU Strabo Avould make the right line of the 6 ADS Latin, one mile longer than the curve of the Labican Way, and he Avould be consequently wrong. But it is evident he is speaking of the distance by the Labican Way, and it is x^robable that the tedious ascent from the plain of Eome to the valley behind Tusculum caused the Latin Way to be neglected in ancient, as it has been in modern times. The Roman accounts of the Latin Way, just quoted, would carry Ad Pictas to a point scarcely seven miles from Anagnia, which was fifteen miles beyond. Now-to Labica Romana by the Via Latina, where some great road has evidently fallen into it from the Labican, is just twenty-three miles ; which would be exactly accomplished by reading YII for XVII, as the distance from Roboraria to Ad Pictas. It would then stand thus : Ad Decimum, X ; Robo- raria, VI ; Ad Pictas, VII ; making, in all, tAventy-three miles ; and at such a point as the spot marked Labica Romana, and at no other, could two roads, one skirting the mountains, and the other cutting through them, meet, if the account of the Labicana be correct. About a mile below, the road from ancient Velitroe to Praeneste crossed the Via Latina ; and it is probable some inn, or a Mutatio, might have existed on the spot. It must be also confessed, that the road which joins the Latin Way at Labica Romana makes a more violent turn than we can suppose the Via Labicana would have made ; perhaps the road now seen there led only from Pedum to Velitrse. A further examination of the spot might be useful. Ad Quintanas. (Vide Ad Pictas.) Ad Salinas. The salt marshes near Ostia, and the mouth of the Tyber, on each side of the river. Being frequented by the Sabines and the Etrurians, they were often, in early times, the cause of dispute with the Romans. Ad Sextum. A place supposed to be upon the Via Plaminia, at the sixth mile, near the present Grotta Rossa. ^GE 7 Ad Statuas. {Vide Ad Pictas.) Ad Turres. A Miitatio, on the Yia Aurelia, ten miles from Laurium, and twelve from Pyrgos. It was probably on the precise spot noAv occupied by the modern Posta di Monterone, which was also conveniently situated for Alsium or Palo. Ad YiCEsrauM. A small place on the Yia Flaminia, a little beyond Monte della Guardia, at the distance of twenty miles from Rome. It was probably little more than a ]\Iutatio. Just beyond the hollow near Monte della Guardia, after crossing the road from Yeii to Capena, the Flaminian rises to its greatest elevation ; and from this spot all the country toAvards Soracte is seen, as well as the whole Campagna di Roma. The road descends gradually each way from this spot. At the bottom of the hill on the Roman side, the road from Yeii to Capena crosses the Flaminian, and may be recognized by the remains of its pavement. These two cities were always allied, and the road must have been one of much traffic. It descends on one side toward Capena, and on the other toward Belmonte, crossing the path between Borghet- taccio and Scrofano. The Jerusalem Itinerary gives the road thus : Roma. Rubras . IX Ad Vicesimum XI Aqua Viva XII TJtriculo . . XII Narnise XII Interamna IX The other table is eAddentlj too incorrect in its pre- sent state to be cited. ^GERIA. Till lately the fountain of La Caffarella has been mistaken for that of ^geria. Juvenal and Li^-y give the best accounts of the place. That of Juvenal is as follows : " Substitit ad vetorcs arcus madidamque Capenam. Hie ubi nocturnfc Numa constitucbat amicai ; Nunc sacri fontis ncmus, et delubra locantur Juda^is, quorum cophinus fcenumque supellex. Omnis enim populo inercedem pendere jussa est Arbor; et ejectis mendicat 8ylva Camoenis. In vallcin -lEgerifc desccndimus, et speluncas Dissimiles veris." — Sat. iii. 11 — 18. The passage in Livy is this : " Liicus erat, quern medium ex opaco specu fons pcremii rigabat aqua ; quo quia se pers^pe I^uma sine arbitris, velut ad congressum Dea?, inferebat, Camoenis eum locum sacravit ; quod earum ibi concilia cum conjuge sua ^Egeria essent." — Lib. i. 21. These two passages show that the grove and fountain were very near the Porta Capena^ and that they were connected with the temple of the Camoen?e. The foun- tain of JEgeria, near the Porta Capena of Eome, seems to have been lost in modern times ; probably because having been included within the walls, upon the exten- sion of the city, it became buried under a gradual accumulation of earth and rubbish ; so that probably the water is now conveyed to the Tyber, or to the Marrana, in subterranean channels. There Avas also a valley of JEgeria, which could scarcely have l)een in any other situation than under the Coelian Hill. iEsuL.E, or ^suLA, or ^sola. Pliny says (Lib. iii. c. 5, s. 9) this was one of the cities winch had perished without leaving vestiges; but that such places had no inhabitants remaining on the spot, was evidently all that he intended to convey by this expression. Porphyrion, commenting on Ode 29, Lib. iii. of Horace, observes, "Udum Tibur prop- ter aquarum copiam. ^sula, nomen urbis, alterius in latere montis constitutai." Horace, Avho wrote not more than eighty years prior to Plinj^, mentions the place familiarly, which the latter could not find, as it was on a mountain out of his way. Strabo makes a similar mistake with regard to Mycena^, which Pausanias saw AFF 9 two centuries later, and which we yet find*. The town of ^sula being a most inconvenient situation, Avas pro- bably deserted as the country became peaceful; and the temple of Bona Dea, called also Terra, Fauna, Ops, and Fatua, was its representative, in later times, as is proved by the style of the columns yet remaining on the spot. The mountain of Tivoli fills up the latter end of the valley of the Anio, and turns that river into the rough ravine below the town and temple. That mountain is divided into three portions: Eipoli, towards the town; Spaccato, in the centre; and Monte Affliano, at the southern extremity. On the summit of Monte Affliano, is a species of inclosure, which was probably devoted to Christian worship, upon the extinction of paganism. In the passage above cited, Porphyrion has most accu- rately described the position of ^sula, as on this southern extremity of the mountain of Tibur. The site is beautiful, and commands a view of the country on every side. It was eminently useful in the trigonometrical operations employed in the construction of the Map belonging to this work. On the declivities of the hill may be found vestiges of roads leading up to the city, and many foundations of the ancient walls, in irregular blocks, some of which may even be observed from the carriage road of Carciano below, particularly near the Villa Betti. Mr. Dodwell examined the whole with much attention, and there can be no doubt that a very ancient city stood on the spotf. ''iEsula? declive contempleris arvum." (llor. Lib. iii. Ode 29.) " Eivom aqua? Claudius Augustte sub Monte Affliano," found in an inscription of Domitian, shows that this name of the mountain is ancient. Paterculus calls the city iEsulum, and a Oolonia. Affile. A mountain hamlet, in the rugged district near [* The Arx iEsuiaiia is mcntioiied by Livy (xxvi. 0) as one of the strongholds in which a garrison Avas placed by the Romans on occasion of the advance of Hannibal against Rome, Avliich shows that as late as the year 543 U. C, it was still kept up as a strong fortress. — E. B.] [t Yet wo find no mention of it among the ancient cities of Latium, with the exception of the passage in Pliny already cited. — E. B.] 10 AGU Subiaco. The details of its topography are not as yet accurately known. Frontinus de Coloniis says: '"' Affile, oppidum lege Sempronia." Cellariiis mentions an in- scription: LvPERCvs Affilanvs. There are thirteen hundred and eighty-two inhabitants. Affilano Mount. {Vide JEsvla.) Aggeres. The mounds raised by Servius Tullius, to support and strengthen the walls of Eome, from the Porta Col- lina to the Esquiline Mount. An excavation was made thirty feet deep and one hundred wide, which served to depress the external soil, and to raise the interior. The Aggeres have been supposed to have served as mounts on which the walls were built : but the foundation would not have been sufficiently stable for the purpose; and Strabo says, the wall was backed by the earth thrown out of the ditch*. At Ardea, similar means were employed for cutting off the promontory, on which the city stood, from the adjoining high ground; and near the centre of this are the remains of a tower, beside which ran the only road leading to the upper part of the city. ACRIPPiE THERMiE. (VkU AlB1"L.E.) Agusta, or Agosta, or Augusta. A small village of six hundred inhabitants, situated on a rock to the left of the road, between Tivoli and Subiaco, at the distance of about five miles from the latter place. [N'ear Agosta the beautiful sources called Le Serene, or Sirene, burst from the base of the mountains on the right bank of the Anio. These were said by the ancients [* This mode of construction, in the case of the Agger of Servius Tullius, was brought to light by excavations made in the time of Santi Bartoli. It "was found that within the mound of earth, which had entirely concealed it from view, was a solid wall built of peperino, as much as twenty Roman palmas in thiclcness. No doubt can exist that farther remains of this wall might still be discovered by fresh exca- vations. — E. B.] AOY 11 to fall from the Fucinc Lake into a chasm, and to rmi under the mountains to this place. Aguzzi, or Aguzzo, Mount. A hill between Yeii and Monte Musino, probably so called, quasi Acuta, its summit being rendered pointed by a Tumulus. There can be little doubt that a King, or one of the Magnates of the neighbouring Yeii, re- ceived here the honours of burial. Another Tumulus seems to have existed near the summit, though time has nearly destroyed it ; for the hill is not so abrupt as to be incapable of being cultivated by the plough. This hill, with its Tumuli, deserves to be well examined, as the spot must have been of importance to the ancient Yeientes. The Tumuli, of Avhich probably more might be found, would doubtless contain relics, which might throw light on the history of the country. Agylla. Agylla {A Albano is of a softer, more earthy, and lighter sub- stance than elsewhere, Avith frequent congeries of frag- ments of augite of a dirt}' green. Dark green mica, iron sand, compact limestone, basalt, and lava resem- bling pumice, are observed by geologists in small quan- tities in different parts of the mountain. In ascending the mountains of this country, it is of the utmost importance to select a clear day ; for per- haps no other country in these latitudes presents an atmosphere so perpetually disturbed by tempests, either general or partial. The Campagna di Roma, besides an almost constant haziness, (producing l)eautiful and varied effects for the painter,) is rarely without one or more murky squalls sweeping across the plain, and deluging, by a well defined torrent of uniform l^readth, a lono- line of country. Tivoli is proverbially the centre of these fogs and vapours ; but the whole plain is subject to most remark- able and frequent changes of aspect and temperature, deriving from them some of its most striking beauties and picturesque effects. Albano, Toicn of. Alliano, a large town with 4185 inhabitants, at the distance of more than fourteen miles from Kome, b}' the post road from the gate of San Giovanni, and about the same from the original Porta Capena. It is con- sequently about one mile less from the gate of San Sebastiano. A high tomb on the left of the Appian, before entering the gate of Albano, is supposed to have been the sepulchre of Pompey the Great, whose ashes were brought hither from Egypt. This town seems to have taken its name from the mountain — (^quasi ad Montem Alhamnn -^ for Dio says, ^^ That Domitian exhibited annual games at Albano, a place mider the Alban mountain, (y-n-o opos to 'AX^avov?) which he had chosen as a sort of citadel." Albano is therefore so called as being upon the Alban hill ; but it has no claim to be considered as on the site, or as in any way connected with Alba Longa, though its modern symbol or arms perpetuate the memory of the white sow and ALB 37 lier thirty pigs ; wliich, liowever, as has been already remarked, Ijclong' not to Alba Longa, but to Lavinium. Before the gate, on the right, is the Villa Altieri, and on the left the road to Castel Gandolfo. The Villa Doria, on the right after entering, has a beautiful knoll, with a clump of dark ilex, and also a large park. This town is one of the favourite residences of the Romans in summer, in consequence of its fine air and extensive prospect, being not less than nine hundred feet above the sea. The late king of Spain had a palace here. The convent of the Cappuccini above the town, with its beautiful grove, has also a magnificent view. In Albano are the remains of several Roman build- ings, generally of brick. Among others is an amphi- theatre ; and there are also some which are supposed to indicate the station occupied by the Prretorian guards*, during the residence of the Emperor Domitian, whose palace, the Arx Albana, Avas prolmbly on the site of the Capuchin convent. The Alban villa of Pompey, " Albanum pnrdium Pompeii," is thought to have been in the position of the Villa Barberini, nearer Castel Gandolfo. Other emperors also, beside Domitian, resided at Albano, and it is probable that they and their courtiers filled the whole neighl)ourhood with villas ; just as at Tibur, Hadrian's residence produced innumer- able country residences in the vicinity of that place. [* The remains here so slightingly mentioned are well worthy of notice. Great part of three sides of the square inclosure can be traced; and the form of the space thus inclosed, together with the remains of two gates exactly in the positions required by the ordinary arrangements of a Roman camp, leave no doubt of its having served for the purpose indicated. But these walls are not built of brick like those of the Prjietorian camp at Rome, but of larqe quadrangular blocks of peperino, presenting considerable irregularities in the masonry, but remarkable for their small thickness, which is only that of the single blocks. The employmejit of peperino (the lapis Albanus, which Avas of course close at hand) in the construction of these walls is worthy of note as an instance of that which has been often overlooked by anti- quarians, though it might seem too obvious to require mention, that the Romans, even in the days of their greatest splendour, would natu- rally employ for all coarser purposes the materials immediately at hand, and vary their mode of construction in some degree according to the nature of those materials. — E.B.] 38 ALB There is a ruin upon the flat land, between the Lakes of Albano and Nemi, which is of better construction than any of those near Albano. It is not very far from Palazzuolo. On the same flat land, an insulated mount covered with trees, called Monte Gentili, has been sup- posed to have been imperial property, but without excavation nothing can be ascertained. It is, however, acknowledged that the patrician families of Rome had villas at Albano. Were not this an undisputed fact, quotations might be given from the writings of Cicero Avhich w^ould place it beyond all doubt. The Yia Appia ran formerly, as at present, through the town, and the splendid monument of Aruns''', (the son of Porsenna, slain at the siege of Aricia,) exhibiting a strong resemblance to the description of his father's stupendous tomb at Clusium, stood close to the road, where it descended into the valley of Aricia. This tomb, contrary to the evidence of all history, was for a long time reputed that of the Horatii and Curiatii. In the gardens of the houses near that sepulchre, the remains of other tombs of later times are visible. Albano has been at different periods subject to earthquakes; these, however, have hitherto been pro- ductive of no serious mischief. Shocks were felt here in the year 1829, and in many of the villages around. After continuing for a considerable period, during which they w^ere at times repeated as often as thrice in one day, they ceased in the autumn. The strange stories then current among the people, of flames break- ing forth from a chasm, and of trees withering from volcanic effluvia, give an air of probability to the showers of stones and other prodigies, said to have occurred in ancient times on the Alban Hill. These phenomena may be referred to the volcanic nature of the mountain, which, at the time that they are said to have happened, was so much nearer the epoch of its vigour and activity. Among the most remarkable objects of curiosity at Albano, a collection of vases, said to have been found * See p. 85. ALB 39 below a stratiiin of volcanic stoiie^ and consequently to have been the urns of a people who existed previous to the extinction of the volcano, has excited much atten- tion. But the correctness of the assertion may be questioned, and consequently of the inference. The stratum below the edge of which they were discovered is apparently not volcanic, but a production of gradual formation, in which nails and other familiar objects are in consequence not unfi-equently observed. This they Avere indeed beloAv, but so near its extreme edge, that it is probable the}" were intentionally placed there, and that the natives had selected the place they occupied, because the projection served for a roof. With respect to the high antiquity assigned to them, the vases are indeed sufficiently rude both in material and workman- ship, to have belonged to a nation which existed before the era of history ; but the same black earth and equal barbarism may be discovered in the vases of almost every part of Etruria. These and other reasons have now completely de- stroyed the supposition of their very remote antiquity, which at one time so generally prevailed; but not till the originals and many counterfeits had been sold to the curious and the credulous. In the time of the Emperor Justinian, Procopius speaks of Albano as one hundred and forty stadia, or fifteen miles, from Rome. He calls it a ■7To\i,aju,a, or small toT\ii. Silvester, the Roman bishop, in the time of the Emperor Constantine, erected here a basilica, dedicated to St. John. Another was built to St. Peter. The concourse of Roman nobility in the summer, and the frequent visits of strangers for the sake of the beautiful scenery of the mountains, contribute to pre- serve Albano from the decay which other towns of the Roman state frequently exhibit; and not only villas, but three or more inns of the better order, exist in the place. Alb ANA Yallis. The valley of the Yia Latina, running between Tus- culum and the Alban Mount. This was probably so 40 ALB called, more on account of the mountain than of the city ; for it Avas in fact nearer to Tusculum, (from which a road descended to the valley and the Latin Way,) than to Albano. It Avas said to he remarkable for its fertility. Probably Grotta Ferrata may sometimes have been included in the valley. AlbuljE AqU^. AX^ovka. A sulphureous stream not far from the Aniene. (Strabo.) Yitruvius mentions it as being- on the Via Tiburtina, and Pausanias also speaks of this water; Strabo calls it vhara -^vxpa, a cold spring- ; and says, it Avas used either for bathing or for drinking, and Avas good for many complaints. There are noAv three lakes; from one of Avhich, (marked in the Map, and called Sol- fatara, or Lago di Zolfo,) is a strong current, generally accompanied by a long line of vapour; it runs in an artificial bed, in breadth nine, and in depth four feet, under the modern road to Tivoli, about a mile and a half from the Ponte Lucano. At the lake near the Valerian road are the ruins of the Therma? of Agrippa, and this Avith caution may be approached in a carriage, after passing the bridge. Some place a Temple of Faunus here, and one of Hygeia. Sir Humphry DaA'y made some curious experiments on the process by Avhich this Avater continually adds to the rocks around by petrifaction or incrustation. He says, that the AAater taken from the most tranquil part of the lake, even after being agitated and exposed to the air, contained in solution more than its own volume of carbonic acid gas, Avith a very small quantity of sulphuretted hydro- gen. The temperature is eighty degrees of Fahrenheit. It is particularly fitted to afford nourishment to vege- table life. Its banks of travertino are everyAvhere covered Avith reeds, lichen, conferA^a^, and A'arious kinds of aquatic vegetables; and at the same time that the process of vegetable life is going on, crystallizations of the calcareous matter are every\Ahere formed, in conse- quence of the escape of the carbonic acid of the Avater. The ancient Valerian, or Tiburtine Way, ran to the ThermiT?; and thence, not directly toAvard Tibur, but to ALB 41 certain ruins now called Colonnicella. where it met another road at right angles, and turned directly right to Tivoli, or Tibur. It is hence conjectured that the line pursued by the modern road was not in remote times passable; and that there was then another lake, which has since been covered by a coat of travertino. Certain tombs, called those of Plautus Lucanus, and of Claudius Liberalis, which still exist, and are close to the bridge, seem, however, to show that in imperial times a Avay did pass by the present carriage road ; and it may be suspected, that as Ca^nina and .Medullia were de- stroyed, the other might have led from the Thermie to the innumerable villas Avhich the patricians possessed in the neighbourhood of the present A'itriano and Marcel- lina. In the line l^etween the bridge and the Solfatara, the rocky crust was broken in on the left near the stream, in the year 1825, and a portion of the water was lost; and another stream, called Acqua Acetosa, falls into a hole on the right: these instances show that the crust is but thin in some places. It probably covers an unfathomable abyss; for a stone thrown into the lake occasions in its descent so violent a discharge of car- bonic gas, and for so long a time, as to give the idea of an immense depth of water. The taste is acid, and the sulphureous smell so strong, that when the wind assists, it has sometimes been perceived in the higher parts of Eome. The lake called Lago di Tartaro, two miles nearer Rome, which once Avas deep, has now so nearly filled itself Avith its OAvn depositions, that in June, 1825, it Avas perfectly dry, having formed a crust, AA'hich probably cut it oit from the subterraneous reservoir beloAv. It is not unlikely that the same Avill happen, in the course of time, to the Solfatara; for on the brink of this lake, it is manifest that even uoaa, the spectator stands on a shelf like ice, over an abyss of unknoAvn depth. In this Avay many lakes have either been filled up, or have rapidly diminished. The lake of the floating island at Cutiliaj is also bounded by a rocky margin, Avhicli, like that of the Solfatara, overhangs an unfathomable abyss, and is alarmingly insecure. 42 ALG The travertino, or recent calcareous stone, of which great quantities were used in the buildings of ancient Eome, (and Avhich is still employed,) was taken from quarries not far from the Ponte Lucano. At a place called Barco, on the right of the road, (and marked in the Map,) where there is a sort of tumulus, (Monterozza,) formed from the excavation, was one of these quarries. There is a modern quarry on the left. The hollows in the travertino are said to be occasioned by the decay of vegetable matter. Its formation is still going on about the Grotta di J!^ettuno, under the cascade of Tivoli. Algidum; Algidus. Ax^iBo^. Diodorus, in that portion of his history relating to Virginius, calls it AayaStw; this has been thought by some an oversight for 'AXyiSco; but AayaSca was the word used by the Grreeks to denote situations of this kind. Procopius (de Bell. Goth.) mentions the place in later times. The name of the wood in its vicinity (Selva del Aglio) is possibly corrupted from Algidum. Strabo calls the place a little town, "A\yiSov ttoXlxviov." It was probably called Algidus, (the cold^ from the Greek 'A\r^os^ on account of its exposed situation. There was a Temple of Fortune in the place, as Livy says: "Supplicatio Fortunce in Algido imperata." (Lib. xxi.) This was proljably the circular temple the remains of which were examined and drawn by Lord Beverley. It seems to have stood upon a high podium or stylobate, round the top of which ran a projecting and very peculiar cornice. On this, pillars were erected, the high pedestals of which projected from the circular basement. The neighbouring Temple of Fortune at Prseneste was also circular. In the Avail of the Temple at Algidum is an arch, which, with many other indications, Avould generally be considered as proofs of a late period. At the same time Algidus does not appear to have been of conse- quence in the lower ages, having been dismantled by the Romans. An outer wall of the fortress seems to have been constructed with the old blocks of tufo set in ALL 43 mortar; tlie inner rampart is of rectangular stones without cement ; of the style of which, as it is not often seen, a specimen is given. 5.-J^^' WALL OF ALGIDUM. There is, as usual, a large reservoir of water in its vicinity, and the angle of the inclined wall near it stands upon a basement of three steps. The Temple of Diana, said to have been at Algidus, should probably he referred to the neighbouring moun- tain of Ai'temisium. Here also may have been that of Minerva. The Algidenses w ere the constant allies of the ^Equi, in their attacks on the Romans. Allas. A place in the territory of the Septem Pagi of the Yeientes, Avhere Ancus Martins defeated the lEtruscan army. From its Greek name, it was probably situated near the sea, and Avas perhaps the place whence the city of Yeii was supplied ^nth salt. (Dionys. Hal. lib. iii.) It may have been near the mouth of the Tyber, and is probably only the Greek for Salinse, the name given to the salt marshes near Ostia. Allia. A river which rises in the hills of Crustumerium, and falls into the Tyber. It was on the banks of this stream, at the distance of eleven miles from Rome, that the Romans were so signally defeated by the Gauls under Brennus. Virgil speaks of it as a river of evil 44 ALL aiig"ury:- ''Qiiosque sccans infaiistum interluit Allia nomen." (^n. vii. 717.) ►Scarcely any spot^ distingiii.shed as the scene of a great event in Eoman liistorv, has been more difficult to ascertain, or has been referred to a greater variety of sites, than the ^- unfortunate Allia." Some who have Avritten on the subject, rejecting the stream which unites Avith the Tyber near Mile A^II. on the A"ia Salaria, at a place called Malpasso, as being too near the city; and finding only mere ditches, before arriving at the Kio del Mosso, or Fosso di Pradaroni, they have disregarded the given distance, and have imagined this Eio to have been the Allia. It is surprising, however, that the brook Scolo del Casale, near Fonte di Papa, though a mere ditch where it crosses the road, should not have been selected ; for it runs in a valley which is very defensible, is about the required distance from Eome, and though it rises near j^omentum, passes through the Crustumerian territory in its course. Another branch of this brook, called Rio Trabocco, rises near Monte Rotondo. The Eio Mosso, on the contrary, rises in mountains Avhich are decidedly of the Corniculani, and, uniting with other torrents from still more distant sources in the higher range, falls into the Tyber near the Osteria del Grillo, (under the names of Eio Pantanella and Fosso del Prat one.) at far too great a distance from Eome, It runs also through a defenceless and a low country, so fiat indeed, that the waters would stagnate, Avere they not assisted by deep and narrow artificial cuts, by which they pass under the present road. The Gauls under Brennus, having crossed over to the left of the Tyber, in their march from Clusium to Eome, the road, marked in the Map Via Salaria Antiqua, must have been one of those by which they approached the city. It may be traced at present nearly to ^N^omentum, below which it probably passed ; and, indeed, it may fairly be supposed to have been originally constructed, as the chief comnmnication between Momentum and the Fidenates, previous to the domination of Eome. The Via l!»[omentana, once called ALL 45 Via Ficulea^ Avas another route, by which the Gauls might liave come. It is highly probable, that in early times the Yia Ficiilea ran up the valley of Cesarini ; for, in some excavations made there, an inscription was found, Avhich mentioned the paving of a road in that direction, Avhich road certainly led to Ficuhp ; for another stone spoke of that city as possessing the terri- tory. There is at present no dithculty in reaching Torre Lupara (the site of Ficulea) by this valley. ]S"oAv, a river Avitli very steep banks, called Fosso di Conca, (from the Fonte Conca,) with another branch called Fosso del Catenaccioni, rises near Torre Lupara ; and runs into the Tyber, in a remarkably deep bed, at Malpasso, near ]\Iile YII. on the modern Yia Salaria. This river, as we have already remarked, has been rejected in its claim to be considered the Allia, as being at its junction Avith the Tyber, too near Eome ; l)ut the I\Iap shoAvs that the deep ravines on this stream, near Ficulea, eleven miles from the Porta Collina, are so situated as to form an isthmus, (noAv called Selzotta and Monte del Cerqueto,) by the near approach of another stream, Avhich has its source in the same dis- trict. This isthmus the ancient road crossed. The Avhole distance from the ravines near Ficulea (or Torre Lupara) to the Tyber, is, in a direct line, three miles and a third ; and this Avould scarcel}^ be too much for the front of so numerous an army of invaders. It may be likeAvise observed, that no station could be better chosen by the Romans, than one Avhich left only the isthmus to be contended for on equal terms ; the little river turning nortliAvards, and presenting on the Roman side, or left bank, a remarkably high and pre- cipitous barrier. On the right bank of the second stream, and near its source, not far from a spot noAv called Scholia, is an insulated conical Tumulus, (marked in the Map.) Avhich, in the year 1829, AAas covered Avith trees. It is so insulated, that it cannot be natural. If this aa^s the scene of the battle Avith Brennus, it Avas in all likelihood raised by one of the contending armies over their slain, probably by the Gauls. 46 ALL In the vicinity of Forno N^ovo^ but nearer Rome, and not on the road, (being to the left,) another great Tumulus may be observed in the Map, which, unless it has been raised by the excavators of the various dykes in the vicinity, probably marks the position of the right wing of the Gauls on the day of the battle. There seems no reason to suppose that it is at all connected with them; but it would be well worth while to examine this, and, indeed, to examine carefully all apparent Tumuli. Two passages of Livy seem to point particularly to the custom of heaping up mounds or Tumuli among the Gauls, — " Ut mos eis est coacervare," and afterwards, — "Pigritia singulos sepeliendi, promiscue acervatos cu- mulos hominum urebant." Lib. v. It may doubted to which of the two streams the name of Allia should be given ; but if the number of eleven miles from Rome may be trusted as the distance of the field on which the battle was fought, the Tumulus on that called Marcigliana Yecchia, or Marciliana Vetus, and its high bank upon the Roman side, seem to mark out the Allia, with much precision. By the Yia J^omentana, the Tumulus is at the exact distance from Rome. By the central, it would be a little beyond the eleventh mile, though Avithin the twelfth. Plutarch gives ten miles and a quarter as the distance of the field of Allia from Rome. By the pre- sent Via Salaria, the Tumulus, near Forno J^uovo, is exactly at the required spot. The passage, in which Livy speaks of the scene of the battle, is this : " Ad undecimum lapidem Gallis occursum est; qua flumen Allia, Crustuminis montibus pr?ealto defluens alveo, hand multum infra viam, Tiberino amni miscetur," This, supposing Livy to be accurately correct, would prove that the river of Malpasso was not the Allia, for that falls into the Tyber within twenty yards of the road. To this stream, therefore, "hand multum" is inapplicable, but it is perfectly just with regard to the rivulet of Marcigliana. According to Diodorus, the battle with the Gauls took place in Etruria, on i\ie other side of the Tyber, ten miles from Rome ; (but this author cannot be ALL 47 trusted;) Yiljiiis Sequester says, that the Allia is a river on the Via Salaria, fourteen miles from Eome ; mean- ing", probably, that which is supplied by the streams from La Mentana and Monte Rotondo, beyond the twelfth mile, — for there is none near the fourteenth; indeed it is evident, from the context, that the distance is an error. Eutropius gives eleven as the distance. After the battle, a part of the army of the victorious Gauls arrived at the Porta Collina on the same even- ing : while a great body of the Romans, flying by the valleys of the two streams of Marcigliana and Malpasso, endeavoured to swim across the Tyber, in order to escape from the barbarians ; and many were drowned in the attempt to reach Yeii and the valley of the Cre- mera, which lay exactly opposite. It may be observed, on reading the account of the battle of Allia by Livy, (lib. v. 21, 28,) that the Roman tril)unes, who had not taken the customary precautions, drew up their army in the shape of a crescent, that it might not be outflanked; though it was so, notwith- standing, on account of the superior numbers of the Gauls. The Roman centre was left too weak; but a corps of reserve was posted on an eminence answering to the Monte dei Soldati in the Map. This was so far advanced in front, that Brennus imagined it was in- tended to fall on his rear in the heat of the action. To prevent this, he fell with his left wing on the reserve, which gave more time for the greater part of the Roman army to escape to the banks of the Tyber, "where," says Livy, "the Roman left wing threw down their arms, and plunged in the river, to escape to Yeii. The right wing of the Romans fled to Rome ; but the Gauls halted, to secure the spoil, to collect the arms of the slain, and (ut mos eis est coacervare,) to heap mounds, or tumuli, according to their custom. After which, in the evening, they presented themselves before Rome." This article must not be concluded without an ob- servation upon the passage : " Ab dextro cornu, quod procul a flumine, et magis sub monte steterat," &c. — Now, at Mile XI, on the lower Yia Salaria, the road is not a mile from the Tyber, on the one side, and is close 48 ALM to tlie hills on the other: as, therefore, there was not space sufficient for the front of the host of the Gauls, the battle could not have been fought there. More- over, there is no river, ^'from the mountains," near the spot. Almo. A small and not very clear stream, crossed by the Yia Appia, near the Porta di San Sebastiano. Ovid calls it, " Cursu ille brevissimus Almo," and mentions that at the point where the Almo joined the Tyber, the priests of Cybele washed their robes*. jSTear this stream were the tomJDs of the Lucretian, the Acquilian, the Aurelian, the Avillian, the Avenian, the Attian, the Petronian, and the Celian families, and also of the Liberti of Livia Augusta, as is known by inscriptions which have been found on the spot. The course of the Almo is indeed short, if it be reckoned only from its apparent source in the vaulted grotto, which contains the marble figure of the god Almo, formerly mistaken for the goddess ^geria. But this, in reality, is not its source : the water being con- veyed hither from the Aqua Ferentina, by an artificial subterraneous channel, Avhich rises in the Alban ]\Iount, above Marino. The Ferentina does not fall under the Ponte del Cipollaro, as many suppose, but crosses, under the name of Maranna del Barco, to the east side of the old Marino road, a mile below that town, at a place called Campo Fattore; it then runs to Pantanelle, where the modern road crosses it, and leaves it to the east ; and, assuming the name of Marrana dei Orti, it takes a sweep, which brings it almost in contact Avith the artificial cut from Centrone, on the road to Grotta Ferrata, About two miles and a-half before it reaches the little Osteria of Tavolato, on the post- road to Albano, it divides into two branches at a place [* It was not their robes that the priests washed in the stream, but the image of the goddess hei'self, together Vt-itli all her sacred imple- ments — a much more singular custom, which is alluded to by Lucan (i. V. GOO), and by Martial (lil>. iii., op. 47), as well as by Ovid.— E.B.] ALS 49 called Marranelle, and the old road to Marino runs between them. These branches reunite betAveen the Tor Fiscale and Tavolato, where the torrent from Eoma Yecchia on the Via Appia joins it ; and the whole then descends to the valley of the Almo, under the name of Fosso Scaricatore. The stream of the AquaFerentina is artificially carried off to Centrone, near Morena, so that except in rainy seasons the bed is often dry, though always remarkably deep. The channel of the branch near Eoma Yecchia, is in many places a succession of chasms. ;Near the grotto of the god Almo, is a ruin Avhich was formerly called the temple of the Camoenae*. The church of St. Urbano is built upon it. Alsietinus Lacus ; Alsia Aqua; (Lib. Notitiar.) Now Lago di Martignano. The Lacus Alsietinus is said to have been on the Via Claudia, fourteen miles from Eome ; perhaps in strictness it was not that the lake was on the road, but that the aqueduct from the lake crossed it. Among the aqueducts which supplied Eome Frontinus mentions the Alsietine, The Lago di Martignano may be seen on the east from a remarkable summit, having the appearance of a camp or city, which forms the highest points of the lip of the crater of Buccano to the west. The usual road commences at a spot about a mile from Anguillara, and is only practicable on horseback. After going for a short time nearly parallel to the eastern shore of the Lake of Bracciano, the path turns doAvn a little valley to the right, leaving La Pollina and Yal' d'Inferno to the left : here certain shafts may be observed, commu- nicating with a subterraneous passage or tunnel, lately formed to convey the water of the Lake of Martignano [* It is now coininoiily known as the temple of Bacclius, an appella- tion derived from a marble altar dedicated to that deity which stands in the vestibule of the church. But as there is no proof that this altar was actually found here, this attribution is probably little better founded than its predecessor. See Burgess's Antiquities ofRome,\o\. i., p. 126: NiBBY, Roma Antica, torn. ii.. p. 742. — E. B.] E .^0 ALS to tlie aqueduct of tlie Acqua Paola ; the supply liaAiiii^' become less copious than usual on account of a sudden depression of the surface of the Lake of Bracciano. The tunnel does not seem to have quite corres- ponded to the intentions of the projector; for it was necessary to keep it on so high a level, that in the summer the surface of the lake is scarcely sufficiently elevated to supply with constancy even a scanty stream. The Lake of Slartignano is a crater three hundred and ten palms deep, and about four miles in circum- ference. That of Straccia Cappa, or Cappi, which is near it, is about two miles and a-half in circuit, and only forty-nine palms deep ; it is, however, upon a higher level, so that it has since been proposed to make another canal, by which the waters of the lower lake may be raised. But it must be remembered, that besides the waste which would be produced by evapo- ration, and that the wide expanse of Martignano ^vould be but little elevated by the whole of the waters of the Straccia Cappa, a lake only forty feet deep in the centre would become tepid in the summer, and acquire the flavour of the reeds and fish with which it abounds, and that this flavour would increase as the waters were diminished. The only method of using this supply would be to drain it into the tunnel, instead of into the lake. An ancient paved road passed near Straccia Cappa. Not far from the lake is a tower Avhich may be seen from the road, near the Osteria of the Sette Yene, on the Yia Cassia, whence it may be about three miles dis- tant. It is reputed about five miles from Trivig- nano. At Martignano there is only one house ; between the two lakes are vestiges of antiquity, and the traces of what is, perhaps, an ancient canal or tunnel. Alsium. AXaiov. Palo. Strabo (lib. v.) says, that from Graviscae to Pyrgi, the distance is about one hundred and eighty stadia, and that fifty is the distance from Pyrgi to the ])ort of Ca^re, which hy such a measurement would be found at Torre FlaA'ia, four miles below Cervetere. Alsium ALS 51 lies on the road from Pjroi to Ostia, distant two hun- dred and sixty stadia. The Theodosian Table gives ten miles between Pyrgi and Alsium, which is correct ; and thence nine miles to Ostia, Avhich is at the very least twice as far distant. The distance, say the com- mentators, was probably two hundred and eight stadia, and the error that of the scribe. The Antonine Tables make a distance of sixteen miles between Pyrgos and Alsium, by the Mutatio Ad Turres. But this would exceed even the distance by the more circuitous modern road by Monterone, which is scarcely thirteen. The Itinerary of Antoninus gives another road to Alsium, by Porto, thus : A Roma. Mill. Pass. Pel* Portum, Centumcellis . LXIX. 111 Portum XIX. Fregenas IX. Alsio IX. Ad Turres IV. Pyrgos XII. Castro Novo VIII. Centumcellis VIII. Eutilius has some lines which refer to this country. " Alsia prajlegitur tellus ; Pyrgique recedunt, Nunc villa? grandes, oppida parva priiis. Jam Cseretanos demonstrat navita fineis, -lEvo deposuit nomeu Agylla vetus." The distance from Pyrgi or Pyrgos, to Ostia, as given by Strabo, seems correct, being about thirtj^-two miles. The town of Alsium stood on the spot now occupied by Palo : a shore someAvhat elevated above the very low ground in the vicinity recommending it as a site. To this circumstance we may ascribe the erection of a fort at this place, and the three or four ruinous villas of the Eoman nobility. Pompey had a villa here. There is no shelter even for boats, and nothing can be more unhealthy and desolate than the surrounding country. The Via Aurelia passed, according to the Peutingerian Table, through Al- sum. E2 52 AME Mill. Pass. Lori XII. Bebiana . . (supposed) VI. Alsium ..... VI. Pyrgos X. Ameriola. A small town situated in the territory of the Sa- bines, but sometimes spoken of as in that of Prisci Latini. It was probably upon the hill now called Monte St. Angelo, but not on its summit ; this having been occupied by another city, perhaps Corniculum. The ruins of Ameriola are situated on the northern hill, and scarcely a mile distant from the supposed Cor- niculum; through the ruggedness of the spot sufficiently separated the two places. The name is perhaps a dimi- nutive ; and the ruins marked on the Map are those of an inconsiderable toAvn. They consist of the usual rem- nants of polygonal, or rather irregular walls, running- round a defensible eminence. Livy mentions the towns of this vicinity in the follomng order : — Corniculum, Piculnea vetus, Cameria, Crustumerium, Ameriola, Medullia, Xomentum. (Lib. i. 38.) Pliny begins Avith Caenina and Ficana*; (the last of these being near the mouth of the Tyber, this want of geographical order throws an impediment in the way of our recognition of the places in question;) and then, in continuation, gives — Crustumerium, Ameriola, Medullia, and Corni- culum, consecutively; Ave may therefore conclude that these four places Avere usually mentioned together. We have in these lists eight cities, of Avhich the site of tAvo, Ficulnea and I^omentum, are known; and as the ruins of six other toAvns (four of Avhich are noAv given for the first time in our Map,) are to be found in the neigh- bourhood, Ave may suppose them to be the remains of the other six given in the above quoted lists. The mountain St. Angelo is one of the Corniculan range, for Dionysius mentions the Ficulnei as living near the [* This name is probably a mistake, either of Pliny himself or his copyists, for Ficulnea. The two places arc often confounded. (See Ficulnea.) — V.. B.] ANA 53 mountains called Corniculani, (lib. i.,) (and the hills are too remarkable to be mistaken;) the village upon its summit represents the town of Corniculum, For a more ample elucidation of the topography of the district, the reader must be referred to the articles Angelo and CoDu'culum. Ameriola was a place of little consequence, and is only mentioned in the early history of the country. Anagnia, now Anagni. A city of the Hernici, and apparently the chief city of the confederation. Ferentinum, Alatrium, and Yerulae were in its vicinity. Yirgil gives to Anagnia the epithet of '' dives." (^n. vii. 684.) The Itineraries mention three roads from Eome to Anagnia — the Praenestina, the Labicana, and the Latin. these dis- Antoninus, by the Praenestina, gives tl tances : — Mill. Pass. Gabios . XII. Prsenestina XI. Sub Anagnia . . XXIV. Ferentino VIII. Frusinone VII*. By the Labicana or Lavicana : — Mill. Pass. Ad Quintanas , , XV. Ad Pictas X. Compitum XV. Ferentino VIII. Frusinone • VI. * Ferentino VIII. and Frusinone VII. are errors. The two strokes of the V should have been crossed ; the distances woidd then have been correct. Mill. Pass. Ferentino . . , . XIII. Frusinone .... XII. The Peutingerian Table of the Yia Labicana gives one or two additional places on the road to Anagnia :— 51 ANG Mill. Pass. Ad Quintanas XV. Ad Statuas III. Ad Pictas VII. Ad Biviuin V. Compito Anagnino . X. There are at Anagni some walls remaining*; and phalli, so common at Arpiniim, Alatri, Cures, and other places, are to be found there ; but Anagni was not exa- mined in detail for the Map. Angelo — St. Angelo in Cappoccio. A ruinous village of 362 inhabitants, on the summit of the highest of the Montes Corniculaiii, and occupy- ing the northern hill, as Monticelli does the southern. The access to it is difficult on all sides, the mountain paths being only tracks worn by use, across slippery calcareous rocks. The Parrocho possesses the only house in the village in tolerable repair, many of the others going fast to decay, for in the present state of society such a situation can have little to recommend it. It has, however, a fine air during the summer months, when, from its great elevation, the wind blows upon it with the strength of a tempest. The views from St. Angelo are magnificent on every side, extending over the whole Campagna of Rome, and including also Praeneste, Mont'Albano, Soracte, and the country of the Sabines. The height of the mountain is considerable, though the vicinity of the lofty Monte Genaro, rising to a height of more than four thousand feet, diminishes its apparent elevation. When places are mentioned only in the history of very early times, there is great difficulty in determining to which of them existing ruins belong. Contiguous places were attacked and taken by the Eomans, not in consecutive order, but as circumstances favoured ; and, [* None of these, however, are of the Cyclopean or polygonal character — a remarkable circumstance, considering the number and magnitude of those remains visible at the neighbouring cities of Alatri, Arpino, and Ferentino. — E. B.] ANG 55 unfortunately, the poets avIio have helped to preserve any traditions were so hound hy the rules of metre, that they perpetually sacrificed vicinity and distance to sound and quantity. Thus A^irgil connects together Atina and Tibur, and Ardea and Crustumerium. (^JEih. vii. 630.) After comparing the different accounts of Livy and Dionysius, and in imagination placing the unknown cities, each in turn, at the spots now for the first time recognised as retaining the ruins of cities, we are led to the conclusion that Corniculum Avas situated on the summit of Monte St. Angelo. Some of the reasons v>hicli led to this opinion are the following : — Dionysius states (lib. i.) that Ficulnea, which is on the Via Xomentana, was near the mountains Cornicu- lani. Ficulea, or Ficulnea, could have existed at no other place than at Torre Lupara, near Monte Gentile, and this city upon the mountain of St. Angelo being upon the highest of the ]\lontes Corniculani, and near to Ficulnea, and being in all probability that which gave the hill its name, must be supposed Corniculum. After an examination of the central hill of the Corni- culani, (called in the old maps Colle Cesi, and now known by the very common name of Castelluccio,) nothing like the vestiges of an ancient town could be found. On the most southern, now called Monticelli, is nothing but the remains of a small brick ^dicola, with Corinthian pilasters, very different from what we could expect the ruins of the early town of Corniculum to be. These facts, therefore, bring us again to the same conclusion, that the ruins on St. Angelo must be those of Corniculum; most certainly, the rudely con- structed walls upon this hill may be safely assigned to a very remote period. Tarquinius Priscus, as Ave arc informed by Livy (lib. i. 38), took, one by one, and without coming to a general battle, from the Prisci Latini, or from those Avho had joined them — Corni- culum, Ficulnea vetus, Cameria, Crustumerium, Ame- riola, Medullia, and Momentum. This is the only account of these cities from Avhich an idea may be formed of their relative positions, other accounts being generally rendered unserviceable by the places in con- 56 ANG nexion with which they are mentioned, having localities altogether different ; as when Pliny, for instance, (r/c?e Ameriola,) gives Ficana in connexion with Cornicnlum. C?enina, Avhich w^as also upon this hill, had already been taken by Romulus. (Liv. lib. i. 10.) The city of Cornicnlum* was burnt by Tarquin, because the inhabitants had constantly refused the terms which had been offered, trusting to the arrival of allies, and to the strength of their walls. As there is no account of the subsequent rebuilding of Corni- culum, it is not surprising that the remains of its walls should present a specimen of rude and genuine anti- quity. They evidently inclosed a citadel on the sum- mit of the hill, now occupied by the village of St. Angelo, the citadel standing on the apex of a triangle ; and running down each side of the south-western decli- vity, the two walls receded from each other, till they were united by the rampart running along the third side, or base of the triangle. For the gratification of the classical reader, a sketch is subjoined of a part of the walls. The Cyclopean characteristic, of small stones filling up the interstices between the larger ones, evidences high antiquity. * At tlic taking of Cornioulum, Ocrisia, the wife of the slain king, or chief of that city, Tullius, was caiTied to Rome, where, being deli- vered of a boy, the child was educated in the house of Tarquin ; and afterwards, under the name of Servius Tullius, became King of Rome. A learned and ingenious person has suggested that these two names are in reality but one, the Latin Servius being equivalent to the Greek AovXios; and that A being changed into T, according to the genius of the Italians, (as in Tiite for Tydeus,) the Greek AovXto? becomes in Latin Tullius. ANl 57 Anguillara ; Angularia. A small town with 658 inhabitants, situated, as the ancient name imports, at an angle, formed by the coast of the Lacus Sabatinus, or Lake of Bracciano. The houses are placed on the declivity of a high and insu- lated rock, sloping to the south, so that carriages can ascend; but precipitous on the other three sides, and risino- hio'h above the lake. The church is on the highest point of the rock, and from it is a fine view. The appearance of the place is much improved by the villa of the Duchess of Mondragone and Evoli. A grove of cypresses planted on the grounds, produces a fine effect. Below Anguillara, the lake forms a little bay, from the end of which, the river Arrone once carried ofi" the superfluous waters. At present the river is much re- duced by the canal or aqueduct, which supplies the splendid fountain of the Acqua Pola, — anciently con- ducted by Trajan from sources above this lake. The lake, from some unknown cause, has lately sunk to such a degree, that neither the river nor the aqueduct have received their usual supply. (^Vicle Lago di Martignano or Alsietinus Lacus.) The aqueduct is regulated by a sluice, at a building called, as is usual in such cases, the Bottino. At San Stephano, two miles S.W. from Anguillara, Professor Nibby found an ancient villa. The road to Anguillara is a carriage road ; but it is not at all times a good one, beyond the Osteria ^uovo, near Galera. Anio, or Aniene River; Teverone. Avirjra; Avirjv ; Aviwv. The River Anio rises, as Pliny observes, in a mountain near Trevi ; (" Anio in Monte Trebanorum ortus ;") and, according to Frontinus, about three miles from that town. Trevi, called by the latter writer, Treba Augusta, and by Ptolemy, Tprj^a, has 1,590 inhabitants. It is marked in the Map, though not from observation. Strabo tells us that the source of this river is in the vicinity of Alba on the Marsi, near the Fucine 58 ANI Lake, and perhaps such is the case ; for according to a M.S. Avritten by Mr. Craven, it appears that at a place not far from Luco, a portion of the waters of the lake certainly falls into a subterraneous channel, with a hissing and sucking noise, as if drawn forcibly through a stratum of pebbles. This spot is now called Le Petogne ; near it, is another hiatus covered by rocks, where the same sound is yet more audible from the greater body of water. This, therefore, may be the remote source of the Anio. From Trevi the river descends to a village called Jenne, situated on the side of a rocky mountain, and visible from the convent above Subiaco ; and thence to a narrow valley overhung with rocks and trees. The beautiful mountain of Carpineto, so called from the hornbeams (Carpini) Avhich it produces, lies on the left bank of the river as it runs through this valley ; and upon the other, on an elevated site, is the splendid monastery of the sacred cave, where San Benedetto retired from the world'''. The monastery is l3uilt against the rock upon nine lofty arches ; and consists of two stories, not less than thirty windows in length. The cave of St. Benedict is in the subterraneous part of the building ; in it there is a statue of the saint in white marble. According to Martelli, an author who writes on the ^quicoli, the cave was origina% an oracle of Faunus. A road on the steep side of the mountains, carried nearly on a level, leads from Jenne to the Sacro Speco, as the convent is called. It is a beautiful and secluded retreat of high renown and great antiquity, and was once richly endowed. The mountains around are mag- nificent, and the view down the valley of the Anio is extremely fine. Lower down, on the way to Subiaco, which is about two miles distant, is another convent. * " The most lioly Father Benedict," says the Latin chronicle of Monte Cassino, " quitting his studies, fled privately to a place called Sublacus, forty miles from the city." This was about the year of our Lord 450. Here he gave much of his time to the cultivation of roses. The roses now to be seen in the garden of the monastery, are said to have been derived from those of the saint. ANI 59 called Santa Scliolastica ; and not far from this, on the left of the road, may be seen several remains of a Roman villa, supposed, bj Professor j^ibby, to have belonged to Nero. Here were probably the three lakes of which Pliny speaks. " Lacus treis amoenitate nobileis, qui nomen dedere Sublaqueo." (Lib. iii. 12.) "The lake," says Frontinus, "was above the Sublacen- sian villa of Nero." These lakes were, in fact, nothing- more than a succession of pools formed by dams across the river, constructed at an enormous expense, in order that the waters of the Anio might be conveyed to Pome from this point of the river, where its waters were more pure than at a lower point, and where it necessarily occupied a higher level. Proceeding onwards, the Anio falls down a nearly perpendicular rock, below the town of Subiaco, the Sublatium, or Sublaqueum, of the ancients. Probably the latter of these names Avas the more ancient, being evidently derived from the site of the town below the lake, whereas the other seems to be only a corruption. The popes at one time resided, during the summer months, in a palace on the summit of the rock, Avhich which was then accessible in a carriage. The epithets "' gelidum Anienem," of A%gil, "Aniena frigora," of Statins, and other testimonies, prove that Subiaco Avas as highly reputed for the coolness of its breezes by the ancients, as it is at present. Subiaco is considered forty-seven miles from Rome, though perhaps forty- four Avould be more correct ; and it possesses a popu- lation, of 4,784 inhabitants. From Subiaco, the x\nio runs in a beautiful valley for about five miles, to Agosta ; (vide Agosta ;) leaving Cerbara (vide Cerbara) on the right bank, it is joined by a stream from Tuccianetta on the left. The three eleA'ated villages of Canterano, Rocca di Mezzo, and Rocca di Canterano, (see these names,) may be seen on this side of the river. BeloAv Agosta is a bridge ; and at the projecting point of the hill stands a church, called from its position, the Madonna del Passo, Between the river and the high road on its right bank, at about six miles from Subiaco, are several tine sources. Just 60 Am beyond Marrano, (a village beautifully placed on an insulated hill on the other side of the river.) at the seventh mile from Subiaco, and at the thirty-seventh mile from Rome, (according to the milestone*,) are other springs of the clearest and most transparent water, remarkable for its azure tint. These fountains may perhaps be those called by the ancients Simbrivina Stagna ; or the Stagna may have been the lakes above Subiaco, (for the fountains and the lakes may equally be considered as under the Montes Simbrivini,) the Simbriviae Aquae and the springsf. The first group of these springs has seven sources, strong enough to be capable of turning some mills in the neighbourhood. The second may have about the same number, but as they form a large pool they are not easily counted. Beside them are the remains of a Roman building, probably an ^dicola. Their modern name is pronounced Serene, but whether Sirene be in- tended cannot be easily ascertained ; or whether the name has any reference to the Syrens. I^ear them another river, which is also from the Simbrivini mountains, called Rocciolino, falls into the Anio. Colle Lungo and Santa Chelidonia, are among the modern names of these hills : on one of them, at a considerable elevation, may be seen a chapel called Le Prugne or La Prugna. After this, the valley of the Anio has an opening on the right bank of the river, down which runs a stream, from a church standing at mile thirty-five on the Via Valeria. Arsoli is at about thirty-seven miles on the left of the same road. The stream turns a mill reputed ten miles and a-half from Subiaco. * These distances united, would make the distance of Subiaco from Rome forty-four miles, instead of forty-seven, the distance usually given. [t It seems not improbable, that their soui'ces are the same as those mentioned by Frontinus, (de Aqueeduct, c. 14) as supplying the water of the aqueduct called the Aqua Claudia. His description presents a remarkable resemblance to that of Sir W. Gell : " Claudia concipitur via Sublaccnsi, ad milliarium xxxviii., divcrticulo sinistrorsus intra passus ccc, ex fontibus duobus amplissimis et speciosis, cserulo (qui a similitudine appellatus est) et Curtio." — E.B.] ANI 61 The Subiaco road falls into the Via Valeria, about mile thirty-four, near Ponte Scutonico ; the bridge being- a little higher on the road to Arsoli, which here quits the bank of the Anio. Beyond Ponte Scutonico, about mile thirty-five, the Valerian Way is flanked by walls of polygonal masonry*. Roviano, on the right bank of the river, has 629 inhabitants. About mile thirty-three is Eovianello, a very small village on the same side ; and on the left bank Anticoli, a large village with 1,183 inhabitants. The mountain behind it, is part of an extensive range which reaches to Siciliano, called b}' some Serrone or San Michele. On the right, above Eoviano, rises a very high mountain. The Anio, on passing the narrow defile between Roviano and Anticoli, turns almost at right angles to its former course, nearly S.W. Near this point some vestiges of antiquity may be seen on the right. A little lower down, the river receives a torrent from the mountain, and the road is joined by the path to Rio Preddo, Avhich runs over the mountain of Ro- viano toward Arsoli. (T7f/e Arsoli.) On this hill the village of Scarpa is seen in a very lofty situation, but ill placed ; it contains 845 inhabitants. At the junction of these roads is an osteria, called La Spiaggia. The valley is beautiful, and the road still lies on the right bank of the river. After this there is another osteria, and a river called Ferrata, over which is a bridge called, Ponte Rotto. The ruins of a town called Ad Laminas, (r/c7e Ad Laminas,) may be found on the right of the road, just beyond the bridge. Ad Laminas is men- tioned in the Peutingerian Tables as on the Tiburtine, or rather the Valerian roadf. [* Substructions of a similar character may be also seen supporting the same road beyond Carsoli. These and numerous other similar instances, would seem sufficient to show that the polygonal style of masonry, so generally considered as evidence of a very higli antiquity, was employed by the Romans themselves, as late at least as the fifth century from the foundation of the city. — E. B.] t It appears that the Via Valeria only began from Tivoli; up to that place the road being called the Tibui'tine. 62 ANI Ttomd. Mill. Pass. Ad Aquas Albulas . XA^I. Tiboi-i ..... — Vario .... VIII. Lamnas V. Carsulis X. In Monte Grani VI. In IMonte Cavbonario V. Sublatio VII. MaiTubio — Alba .... XIII. Soon after Ad Laminas, (where there is a mill, and an osteria called Frattocchie.) on the hill to the right, are Cantalupo and Bardella; (see these nanles;) and beyond these the villa of Horace, and the valley of the Digentia, which river falls into the Anio. On the left, upon a high mountain, is Saracinesco, whence another stream falls in. Here the road quits the Anio, crossing the height of the convent of San Cosimato — a very pic- turesque spot. At the convent, travellers may be received. The river runs below, in a deep glen; the adjacent ruins of an ancient Eoman bridge, the convent, and its cypresses above, with the rapid stream of the Anio below, combine to make a fine study for the painter. Soon after this, the Anio passes under the bridge of Yico Varo, a town on the right bank, with 1,129 inha- bitants, but destitute of a tolerable inn. On a steep hill, by which the town may also be approached, are the irregular walls of the ancient city which, in the Tables, is called Yarie"". ]^ear this place is the road to Licenza and to Civitella. IsTear a church below Yico Yaro, the Anio receives two more streams from the mountains on the right; and on the same side, at about the twenty-fifth mile from Rome, are the remains of an ancient city, the name of which is uncertain. On the road is a block of marble with an inscription. Soon after are the ruins of a castle called Sacco Muro, (see this name,) standing between the road and * [See Vico Varo.— E. B.] ANI (53 the Anio; on the other side are vestig-es of the Via Yaleria, with tombs, and the arches of an aqueduct. There are also sepulchres on the modern carriage road, and the ruined walls of the city are seen from below. Other streams fall in from the town of Castel Madama, situated on a high hill upon the left bank, and containing 1,784: inhabitants. This and similar places look respectable from a distance; acquiring an air of consequence from the size of their baronial residences, and from their churches, many of which have domes, and more than one tower. At a turn of the road lower down, a place called Santa Balbina (see this name) may be perceived at a short distance, with ancient ruins of two different periods. Below this the valley enlarges, and becomes united with that called the Yalley of Aqueducts, behind Tivoli. Across the river, is an eminence called Muni- tola, (r/f/e Munitola,) where ruins exist, and the Aqueducts, in long lines of broken arches, are seen beyond. Several streams fiill into the Anio before the moun- tains again close, and the current is now become both deep and furious as it rolls towards Tivoli; there, form- ing the great cascade under the temple, it falls into the beautiful glen below the tovv'n, and the villa of Mecfenas. After passing under the bridge it enters the great Campagna of Rome, Avhere another bridge, called Ponte Lucano, crosses it at the Plautian Sepulchre. In ancient times, according to Strabo, the stones from the quarries of Aqua^ Albula3 on the other side, and from those of Gabii on the other, were conveyed to the capital by this river; and it is astonishing, that as stone and lime continue to be transported, this easy method should not be preferred to the employment of the hundreds of mules required by the present mode of conveyance. The Anio runs by the superb villa of Hadrian, which is on the left; and soon after receives the Aquae Albula? from the right. ( Vide Aqua} Albulee.) Lunghezzina is a farm-house on the left; and lower down, and on the same side, is Lunghezza, a large cas- @4 ANT tellated mansion, in a defensible position ; on the other side is another farm, called Cavaliere. In the spring, the narrow meadows here, on each side of the stream, look very pleasant, and the river is in most parts fringed with trees. At Lunghezza, the river Osa falls in on the eft, from CoUatio and Gahii. There is little worthy of notice between Lunghezza 9-nd Ponte Mammolo. The Via Collatina runs not for from the left bank. A place called Salone, a reservoir of one of the Roman aqueducts, and certain quarries near Cervareto*, after having received the Eivus Magu- lianus from the right, are all that can be named. The three bridges, Mammolo, Lamentana, and Salara, (the two last deriving their names from the roads l!^omentana and Salaria,) cross the Anio before it falls into the Tyber, below the site of Antemnae. Antemn^. Avrefivai' Avrevvai. " Antemnaque prisco Crustumio prior." — Silius Italicus, viii. 267. Antemnae was placed on the left bank of the river Anio or Aniene, near the spot where this river, dividing the Sabine from the Roman territory, flows into the Tyber. Dionysius, lib. iii. Antemnce and Crenina were the first cities taken by Romulus; most of the inhabitants of which he trans- ferred to Rome, placing a colony of three hundred Romans in the cities. — Valerius, the consul, must have been encamped near Antemnse, upon the hills on the left bank of the Anio, when the Sabines attacked Rome after the expulsion of the Tar quins. In the time of Strabo this place was the property of a patrician; for he says (lib. v. p. 230) "Collatia, Antemna^, Fidena?, Lavinium, and such like places, were once small towns, but now they are only villages, and the property of individuals." Antemme was only thirty stadia from Rome; and must consequently have so interfered with the ambitious [* Probably the Lapicidiiise Rubrse of Vitruvius. Vide Cen^areto. E. B] ANT 65 designs of Romulus, that it was to be expected he woukl rid himself of his dangerous neighbours as early as j)0ssible. To lind Antemnjc, the best way is to take the Via Salaria, till it descends to the meadows, previous to crossing the Anio. The site will then be discovered on a green insulated eminence, at the distance of less than a quarter of a mile to the left of the road, and cannot be mistaken, though no visible ruins now remain of Virgil's '-Turrigera' Antemna^." (^n. vii. 630.) It would seem that the high point nearest the road was the citadel; and the descent of two roads, now scarcely perceptible, one toward FidenjT} and the bridge, and the other toward Eome, marks the site of a gate. On the other side of the knoll of the citadel is a cave, with signs of artificial cutting in the rock, being a sepulchre under the walls. There was evidently a gate also in the hollow which runs from the platform of the city to the junction of the Aniene and the Tyber, where there is now a little islet. Probably there Mas another gate toward the meadows, on the side of the Acqua Acetosa, and another opposite; and from these two gates, which the nature of the soil points out, one road must have led up a valley, tending in the direction of the original Palatium of Rome; and the other must have passed by a ferry toward Yeii, lip the valley near the present Torre di Quinto. It is not uninteresting to observe how a city, destroyed at a period previous to what is now called that of authentic histor}^, should, without even one stone remaining, preserve indications of its former existence. — From the height of Antemnoa is a fine view of the field of battle betAveen the Romans and the Fidenates, whence Tullus Hostilius despatched M. Horatius to destroy the city of Alba Longa. l"'he isthmus, where the two roads from Palatium and Yeii met, unites with the city a higher eminence, which may have been another citadel. The beauty of the situation is such, that it is impossible it should not have been selected as the site of a villa in the flourishing times of Rome. A rough sketch is subjoined of the spot by Avay of further description of the place. F CO ANT In the time of Tarqiiin, the combined Sabines, B, and Etruscans, A, encamped at the confluence of the rivers, erecting a wooden bridge, A B. Tarquin send- ing boats, filled with combustibles, down the Anio, burnt the bridge, and was thus enabled to attack his divided enemies, and also to destroy another body of Sabines at C. The Gauls encamped here, and perhaps also Hannibal, when he approached the Porta CoUina. The spot is frequently adverted to in the early periods of history. Servius, Yarro, and Festus agree that Antemnae was so called, " quasi ante amnem posita.'^ Anticoli. A small town, consisting of about two hundred houses, with a population of eleven hundred and eighty- three inhabitants, and pleasantly seated on the decli- vity of a hill, upon the left bank of the Aniene, or Anio, not far from Subiaco. It is near the thirty- second mile, on the road to Subiaco, and is not far from Roviano upon the other bank of the river. Antitim; AvTtov Avna- AuOia. Nolo Capo d'Anzo. Antium is called, in the Peutingerian Tables, seven- teen miles from Lavinium, and seven from Astura. DionysiuS calls it " eirK^aveararr] iroXv? OvoXovaKcov," a '^most splendid city of the Volscians." It was reck- oned two hundred and sixty stadia, or about thirty- two miles from Ostia, and is described as situated upon ANT 67 rocks, so as to have been very defensible. (Livy, lib. vi.) It has also been considered about the same distance from Eome ; but as the road quits that of Nettuno, near the thirtj^-first milestone, Antiuni is at least thirty-eight miles from the capital. After passing Carroceto, about twenty-five miles from Rome, the road enters an extensive forest, where the multiplicity of tracks, most of them equally worn, greatly perplex the traveller. The milestones, which mark the way to ^ettuno, are the only guides, as no road has been made. Antium, once a flourishing city of the Yolsci, and afterwards of the Eomans, their conquerors, is at present reduced to a small number of inhabitants. They consist chiefly of those who occupy the magazines erected by the Papal government for mei'chandize, in the hopes of re-establishing the lost importance of the place. Originally it w'as without a port, the harbour of the Antiates having been the neighbouring indentation in the coast of Ceno, noAv K^ettuno, distant more than a mile to the eastward. The port of Antium was constructed in imperial times, but later than the age of the geographer Strabo, who expressly says there was no port. The piracies of the ancient Antiates all proceeded from Ceno, or Cerio, where they had twenty-two long ships. These I^umi- cius took, having destroyed the station, and levelled the walls of the castle. Some of the ships were burnt, and some were taken to Rome, and their rostra sus- pended in triumph in the Forum. The Antiates ^vere from that time forbidden to embark on the sea, and a colony of Eomans was sent to keep the city in subjec- tion ; but they frequently rebelled, and w ere not finally subdued till the year U.C. 41G, by Furius Camillus and C. Maenius Nepos. Among the fragments now pre- served in the Capitol is one alluding to this circum- stance : — C. MAENIVS. P.F.P.N. COS. DE. ANTIATIBVS. AN. CDXV. It appears that the population of the city was so reduced, that not only Volscians, but Hernici and F2 08 ANT Latins were invited to settle there ; and tliat wlien Nero undertook the re-estahlishment of Antimn, he also was ohliged to send a colony to the place. The celebrated temple of Equestrian Fortune was here, and divination (" Sortes in Fortunarum Templo") was in great repute. A temple of iEsculapius was also famous at Antium, as the serpent god coming from Epidaurus seemed inclined to remain here instead of proceeding to Eome. In imperial times a temple of Apollo, a circus, where the Circensian games were exhibited, a temple of Yenus and Thermre, contributed to the magnificence of Antium. Those who would see the vestiges of the ancient city should follow the road toward Ardea, from which some high knolls, once the site of the walls and habita- tions of Antium, are seen on the right. There are many indications of antiquity not yet, perhaps, suffi- ciently examined ; the celebrated Apollo Belvidere was found here among the ruins. It should be recollected that the port is nearly half filled up with adventitious soil, and that the city stood upon high rocky ground. Nero, who Avas born there, was the restorer of the city, and the constructor of its celebrated port. Hadrian was much pleased with it as a place of residence. Tlie ruins of the moles yet remain, and show that in imperial times the science of maritime architecture was well understood*. They are about thirty feet in thickness. The stones are tufo ; the cement which unites them is terra pozzuolana. The longer mole is on the west, and extends to the length of about 2700 feet; the other is about IGOO feet long. Between them is inclosed a semi-elliptical basin, the shore of which forms the shorter diameter of the half oval, and is equal in length to the longer mole. The Italian coast having run for some distance in a north-west and south-east direction, took originally. * TliG moles of Antium Avere erected about the year G9 of our jora; tliose of Ostia, a.d. 55 ; the Port of Ancona was formed A.n. Ill; that of the present Civita Vecchia, or Centumcelli, A.n. 130; and a.d. 140, the mole of Puteoli was repaired by Antoninus Pius. ANT 69 after passing- the Cape of Torre d'Anzo, a sudden turn to nortli-east. An accumulation of sand has since changed this direction to nearly east. The port of Xero had its opening to the south-east, so that by a slight prolongation of the Avestern mole^, the waves from the west and south could not disturb it, "while the coast toward Xettuno and Astura land-locked it. An entrance has been also imagined on the west, chiefly because something like a breakw^ater is found within the port in tliat part ; hut it is certain that foundations of the mole exist under the supposed opening, so that the breakwater may have been an earlier attempt to keep out the waves, especially as there is another similar rampart on the south ; or if not, may be ascribed to a subsequent period. Upon a rock just outside the port, at the southern entrance, are the remains of Avhat has been taken for a detached pharos. The eastern mole Avas applied by Pope Innocent XII. about the year 1700, toAvards the construction of a ncAv port, to the east of the old one. He added a short ncAv mole, of right angles to the former, Avhich affords a tolerable shelter to very small vessels, but AAhich is noAv fast filling up Avitli depositions of sand. Its plan Avill be better understood by a reference to the Map. The moles of the ancients are generally represented on medals as standing upon arches, as may be also repeatedly seen in the marine paintings found at Pom- peii. Suetonius speaks of the piers of the mole at Ostia ; Pliny of piers at Centumcella) ; the inscription of Antoninus at Pozzuoli, of the opus pilarum ; and in Seneca is the expression " in pilis Puteolanorum." These, and many other such examples, demonstrate that in the construction of ancient ports piers or arches A\ere usual. De Fazio, a Neapolitan author of repute, has inge- niously shoAvn that the intervals served to admit, in a certain degree, the entrance of currents, so as to pre- vent depositions of sand or earth, Avhich Avould mani- festly tend to the destruction of the ports. The Romans seem to have erected piers and arches; by the Greeks the intervals Averc covered cither Avith flat architraves. 70 ANT or with approaching stones. The mole at Puteoli, called the Bridge of Caligula, is well known ; two more existed at Misenum, another before the Porto Giulio, and one at N^isita — these De Fazio examined. Intervals may he seen in the mole at Astura, and also in that of Eleusis. Of the latter, a map and view have been pub- lished by the Society of Dilettanti. The ports of jEgina, of Mitylene, of Scio, Cnidus, Delos, and N^axos, all seem to have been constructed on the same prin- ciple, and many others might be cited. Pope Innocent XII. having determined to construct at Antium either a ncAv port, or to restore the old one, consulted the celebrated architect, Fontana, who recom- mended the re-construction of a part of the old port, and estimated its expense at 25,000 scudi. Zinaghi, his opponent, offered to make, to the east of N^ero's, a new one for 15,000 only. Having in consequence obtained the preference, he proceeded to fill up in the eastern mole the intervals left by the ancients, and thus occasioned that rapid deposition of soil which has now rendered both ports nearly useless. The expense of this new port was, however, more than 200,000 scudi, instead of being only 15,000. It was finished after three years' labour, in the year 1701. In less than ten years the accumulation of sand showed that it would soon be useless. Another eastern mole, called the Pamfilian, was projected as a remedy, but this occa- sioned still greater depositions. It may be observed below the Yilla Costaguti, now Torlonia. By the filling up of the openings in the mole, through which the sand formerly escaped, the port of N^ero may now be con- sidered as reduced to one-half of its original size. Other ill-advised operations have contributed to the ruin of this once celebrated port, and have greatly increased the difficulty of its restoration. The road from ^Nettuno to Porto d'Anzo lies on the coast. The sea is close on the left, and a high woody bank on the right, on which stands the Villa Torlonia, a palace once possessed by the family of Costaguti. From the summit of this building is an extended view over the sea, and of the ancient and modern moles of APP 71 Antium. In those parts wliere time has impaired them, their extent is indicated bj the breaking of the waves. Toward the land, the chief object is the mountain of Albano and its accessories, seen above an almost inter- minable extent of forest. On the right, the top of the citadel of Palestrina and Rocca di Cavi may be dis- covered, peeping over the hill of Velletri ; then Yelletri itself, in a line with what is, perhaps, the Castle of Algidus ; and to the left of these are the summit of Mt. Arriano, and the village of ^N^emi, in a line with Civita Lavinia. A little left of l!^emi is the summit of Mt. Albano ; and above Genzano, Rocca di Papa, Ariccia, and the Cappuccini of Albano ; Albano itself^ Castel Gandolfo, and Castel Savelli terminate the range to the left. There are other villas at Porto d'Anzo, (among which is the Corsini,) built for the benefit of the marine air and bathing. !N'o place could afford a more delightful winter marine residence than Antium. The coast being low, and sheltered by high and wooded banks from the northerly winds, renders it a most agreeable spot. The more wealthy Romans were in the habit of spending a portion of the year at Antium. (Strabo, lib. v.) Aphrodisias. (Vide Ardea.) Appia. Via Appia. " Via quidem spectatu dignissima." — Procopius. " Qua limite noto Appia longarum teritur Regina viarum." Papes'us Statius, lib. sylv. ii. 12. Tlie Appian Way was begun about U. C. 442. Dio- dorus Siculus says, that Appius Claudius Caucus con- structed it from Rome to Capua, (a distance of more than 1000 stadia,) and called it by his own name, and that by its expense he exhausted the Roman treasury. An inscription given by Gruter, but which is by some thought false, calls him appivs. clavdivs. c. f. c^cvs, and ends with "in censura viam Appiam stravit, et aquam in urbem adduxit, ajdem Bellonai fecit." 72 APP This road was afterwards prolonged to Brundusiiim, and was frequently repaired, particularly hy Trajan. In the Pontine Marshes, the level having sunk, three successive pavements have been observed in some places. The breadth varies from about sixteen to twenty-six feet between the curb-stones. Pratilli, however, says the Avidth is from twenty-five to thirty-four palms. The materials of the pavement of the Via Appia were hard black volcanic stones or lava, of a polygonal form, united by coarse sand or gravel, which filled up the intervals. The ancients seemed to have called the one silex*, and the other glarea. It is said that the Eomans learned the art of paving roads from the Car- thaginiansf, having originally used only glarea for both ^ [* The Romans cei'tainly used the term silex, not to designate any particular kind of stone, but in general for any very hard stone: wlience it is sometimes applied to the hard limestone rock of the Apennines ; but as the black basaltic lava was the one with which they were most familiar in the nciglibourhood of Rome itself, it is generally to be un- derstood where silex is mentioned. — E.B.] [t But this statement rests only on the authority of Isidore (in his Oriffines, lib. xv. c. 16), a late and very inaccurate writer ; and all that we know of the early relations between Rome and Carthage tends to render such an assertion in the highest degree improbable. It is much more likely, as suggested by Sir W. Gell himself, (infra, p. 149,) that the Romans may have learnt the art of constructing paved roads from the Etruscans, but we have no evidence in support of this conjecture. The period at which they began to construct their roads with the mag- nificent solidity still attested by tlieir existing remains is very uncer- tain. We must not conclude that even the Appian Way was origi- nally ])aved in this style : for we find it exjiressly mentioned by Livy, (x. 47,) that it was first paved with silex, from the temple of Mars (just outside the Porta Capena) as far as Bovilla?, in the censorship of P. Cornelius Arvina and C. Marcius Rutilus, sixteen years after that of Appius Claudius ; and hence we may infer that the pavement was not extended to Capena until long aftenvards. But it is probable that all the principal ways leading out from Rome were thus paved during the fifth or sixth centuries of the city; and the passage cited by Sir W. Gell from Livy relates the improvement introduced for the first time, in 580, of laying a substratum of gravel or small stones imdcr the ])avemcnt, a practice universally followed in later times. The word in all the best editions of Livy is " substruendas," not " substernendas ;'"' but whichever reading we adopt, the term is evidently used in contradis- tinction to the simple " sterncndas." The "margines," or "erepidincs," on each side of the road, were first introduced at the same time. (See Livy, 1. c.)— E.B.] APP 73 streets and roads. An edict of the year U. C. 580, orders " Yias steniendas silice in urbe, et glarea extra iirbem snbsternendas." (Livy, lib. xli. 32.) This shows that hitherto only the Appian Way had been paved with such magnificence, and that gravel was the mate- rial of the rest. The silex referred was evidently the same as the Selci of the Italians. On each side of the road Avere disposed, at the distance of every forty feet, low columns, as seats for the weary, and to assist in mounting on horseback. The roads were provided also with inns, 'and ornamented with statues of the JS^unii Yiali, Lares Yiales, or Dei Yiaci, as they are called by Yarro, — Mercury, Apollo, Bacchus, Ceres, Diana, Janus, Jana, and Hercules. At every one thousand paces, of five feet each, was a milestone — Lapis, Lapis Milliaris, or Colomna Milliaris. These were first set up by the Tribune C. Gracchus. The stages were called Man- siones and Mutationes, the latter name being derived from the changing of the horses. The carriages in use were cars (Birot?e or Biga?) with two wheels and as many horses, waggons, (Rheda? and Quadriga^,) and coaches drawn by six horses (Seijugre). The post- horses were called Yeredi, and the postilions Yeredarii ; and many of these Avere established by Augustus throughout the empire. It is surprising to observe, upon referring to the laws, hoAv Avell everything Avas regulated. A Birota could only carry tAvo hundred pounds Aveight; a Rlieda might carry one thousand. A Carrus might be charged Avith six hundred pounds Aveight. A Carpentum Avas a more ancient vehicle, and carried one thousand pounds, but it could contain only tAvo, or at most only three persons. The Anagarijia carried one thousand five hundred pounds. Carriages might be found at every post, and not less than forty post-horses Avere kept. Saddle-horses Avere called Equi Cursuales. A Rhcda had eight mules in summer and ten in Avinter, and a l^irota three mules. The Itineraries give the places on the Appian road, connected Avith the present Map, in the following order; but it is to be observed that the printed copies do not always correspond Avith each other. 74 APP Itiner. Antonin. Appia ah Urhe. Mill. Pass. Aricia . . XVI. Tribus Tabcrnis . XVII. Appi Forum . XVIII. TeiTacina . xvm. Itiner. Hierosol Urhe Romd. Mill. Pass Mutatio ad Nono IX. Aricia . VII. Tres Tabernas VII. Mut. Sponsas XIV. Mut. Appi Foro vn. Mut. ad Media IX. C. Terracina X. Peuting. Tahle. Romd, Via Appid. Mill. Pass. X. III. Bobellas Aricia . Sub Lanubio Tres Tabernas Terracina It seems that the Yia Appia began at the Porta Capena. " Appius Censor Viam Appiam a Porta Capena usque Capuam mimivit." — (Frontinu'fe.) Festus con- firms this account. It is, however, clear that the whole street, from the Milliarium Aureum to the gate, was in imperial times known also by the same name*. The Porta Capena stood in the hollow between the Coelian hill and the eminence now called S. Balbina, where the ancient walls of the city may yet be seen [* I am not aware that any proof can be brought of this statement, which is wholly contrary to all analogy. — E.B.] APP 75 .supporting the bank. The actual site must have be'en near the little bridge over the Marrana or Aqua Crabra, the spot Avhere the milestone numbered I. was found, being just one mile beyond it. The name was evidently derived from the temple of the Muses Camoen?e, cor- rupted in a way common to both Greece and Italy. The city of Capena lay precisely in an opposite direction. Both Martial and Juvenal allude to the damp situa- tion of the gate ; and certainly the Aqua Crabra might have rendered it at all times humid. The grove and fountain of the Camoence, and of the nymph ^geria, were also very near it ; though, till lately, antiquaries had placed them near the tomb of Csecilia Metella. ( Vide ^Egeria.) This gate was also called Fontinalis*, from the two fountains near it. The Via Latina united with the Appian, in front of the Porta Capena, at or near the spot Avhere that road now falls in from the Porta Latina of Honorius. The Yia Ardeatina also entered here. The sepulchre of the Scipios, now within the gate of St. Sebastian, and per- haps the most curious relic of republican times existing at Rome, shows that the site of the Porta Capena was in their time farther north-Avest than the present gate, as no ojie was allowed to be buried within the city. The arch of Drusus, and the gate now called that of St. Sebastian, built by Arcadius and Honorius, A.D. 400, with its inscriptions and history, are amply described by Professor Mbby in his Mvra di Roma. He has also conjectured, that the real fountain of jEgeria was in the valley to the left of the road, not far from the ancient Porta Capena. ^ear that gate [* This is a mistake. The Porta Fontinalis was on the opposite side of tlie city, leading towards the Campus Martins. (See Bunsen, Beschreibung der Stadt Rom, vol. i. p. 626.) The damp, or rather dripping, situation of the Porta Capena, as it is described by Martial " Capena grandi porta qua pluit gutta," evidently refers to the circumstance mentioned by Frontinus, (De Aquse- duct., c. 19,) that one branch of the Marcian aquaiduct had its termina- tion at this gate. — E.B.] 76 APP were the Temples of Fortime, wlio ])resided over jour- neys, of Mercury, of Apollo, of Hope, of Honour, of A'irtue, and of Minerva. At the latter, generals return- ing from conquests were accustomed to sacrifice. IS^ear these was a temple to the Tempests, probably that men- tioned upon Scipio's tomb ; and another to the goddess Feronia. Many of these must have been outside the ancient wall. The magnificent temple of Mars Gradi- vus was near the first milestone, a little beyond St. Sebastian. The road thither was so much frequented, that in ancient times it was twice paved. Beyond this was the Temple of the Bona Dea, whose priestesses were vestals. The descent from the gate of St. Sebas- tian, after passing a tomb on the left attached to a modern house, which once Avas thought the sepulchre of Horatia, crosses the river Almo, not far from its sup- posed source, (vide Almo.) Here, on the left, is another tomb, stripped of its external coating, and bearing on its summit a small house, which has been called by some the tomb of Priscilla. Further on, at a great sepulchre on the right, once thought to have been that of the Scipios, the Via Appia leaves the Via Ardeatina, and passing a little circular church to the left, and a road to La CafFarella, it ascends a hill be- tween deep banks, on each side of which are some other tombs, apparently of persons of consequence. On the left is the Columbarium of the servants of Augustus, as proved by the inscriptions found there. These monu- ments at present consist of large and lofty masses of rubble work, originally cased with blocks of stone or marble. Among others is a tomb, or rather an .^di- cula, Avith Corinthian pilasters, attached to a modern house. Further on are a ruinous Villa Casali, and a Villa Buonfigliuoli, and several tombs on each side of the road, stripped of their ornaments. The Temple of the god Rediculus, celebrated for the advance of Han- nibal to the spot, was in this district. The numerous remains of tombs and of sarcophagi, seen in the walls and buildings, render this road the most striking exit from the capital. — The Via Appia now descends into the valley near the church of St. Sebastian, which the cata- APP 77 comhs (Trucidatorium Christianoriim) connected with it, have invested with so mucli interest. The body or at least the head of St. Peter, seems to have been deposited in this place for a time, having been privately brought thither by liis friends. Here a carriage-road forms a communication with the post-road to Albano, near Eoma Yecchia, at Mile Y. On the left of tlie valley of St. Sebastian are the ruins of the circus, once supposed of Caracalla; but ha'V'ing been lately excavated by the Torlonia family, under the inspection of Sig. jS^ibby, an inscription was discovered in honour of its founder Maxentius. Professor K^ibby has recentl}' pub- lished an account of this circus. The inscription, which is unknown in England, runs thus: — DIVO. ROMVLO. N. M. V. COS. ORD. II. FILIO. D. N. ]\IAXENTII. INVICT. YIRI. ET. PERP. AVG. NEPOTI. T. DIA'I. jMAXBIINIANI. SEN. ORIS. AC. CIS. AVGVSTI. The buildings, of which many remain above ground, afford a curious specimen of the brick-work of the age. In the map of Sig. A^isconti the buildings nearest the road on approaching the circus, are marked " Spoliario ]\Iutatorio," which would seem to appropriate them to the use of the circus. — Here, some have been inclined to think the Via Ardeatina fell into the Appian: there certainly was a cross road uniting them, — whicli running up the valley of circus, joined also the Via Latina, where it crosses the modern post-road to Albano. The ascent from the circus to the magnificent tomb of Caecilia Metella, (once called Capo di Bove,) has lately been made more accessible, and many tombs were cut through in the operation. This tomb may be con- sidered as situated at about the third mile from the an- cient Porta Capena, and consequently not quite two miles from the gate of St. Seljastian. It was originally a circular tower-like structure, on a quadrangular base- ment. It stands at tlie termination of a long stream of lava from the crater of j\Iont xVll)ano. ( Vkle Mt. Albano.) Tlie top of the monument is two hundred and twenty-eight 78 APP feet eight inches above the level of the sea. Boscowich calls it only twenty-six paces above the sea. The strength of the biiildinii: is the cause of its bavins; at one time been converted into the keep of a castle, raised during the middle ages, by one of the then powerful and turbulent families. Professor I^ibby, as- cribing the desertion of the Via Appia to that period, has supposed it may have been occasioned by the position of this castle, and the marauding habits of its possessors ; and the newer road to Albano from the gate of the Lateran, was formed in consequence. In the vicinity of the tomb, the ancient pavement is observable, and sometimes the curb-stones on each side. The road having ascended to the top of the ridge of lava, the whole of the plain may be seen below. Nume- rous tombs, forming a dreary exhibition over the wide waste, line the road to Albano on both sides. In making observations for the Map, fifty-one tombs Avere noted on the right, and forty-two on the left of the road, between Capo di Bove and Roma Vecchia, and doubtless many more exist. Fabretti and others have written long dissertations on the sepulchres which once adorned the Via Appia; but as all of them have apparently mistaken the modern for the ancient Porta Capena, even down to Pratilli, they are neces- sarily involved in error, in their account of every object. " An tu egressus Porta Capena," says Cicero, '' cum Calatini, Scipionum, Serviliorum, ]\Ietellorum sepulchra vides, miseros putas illos?" The tomb of the Scipios is now within the gate, as was observed above, and it were to be wished the orator had placed the Servilii after the Metelli, instead of before; as, about a mile beyond the tomb of Cascilia Metella, to the left of the road, a mass of fragments was found, and preserved from destruction by Canova, and among them the inscription — U. SERVILIUS QVARTVS DE SVA PECVNIA FECIT. This spot is marked in the Map, as indeed are as many tombs as possible. APP 79 Here, says Pratilli, was the monument of Horatia, but she was not likely to have strayed so far from the city in time of war. According to Ligorio, at the fourth mile, was the Ustrina, or place for burning the bodies of deceased patricians; the plebeian dead being- buried in pits on the Esquiline. Pratilli places it at the fifth from the Porta di San Sebastiano, which would nearly correspond with the sixth from the ancient gate. Neither of these antiquarians therefore believed the Ustrina to have been at Roma Yecchia, and- one of them positively asserts that it was a circular building, not far from the road. Fabretti also calls it circular. At the fourth mile the long line of tombs produces a striking effect, as this Queen of Ways stretches across this most desolate tract of country. Fabretti says, the families Turrania and Rubellia were buried here; and, according to an inscription, C. Rubellius, and others, founded an aedicyla, which may possibly be the brick building a little farther on to the right. At the fifth mile, says Cornelius Nepos, was the monument of Quintus Caicilius, and it is probably to this tomb that Cicero alludes after naming that of the Servilii. At this part of the road the sepulchres of the Ho- ratii, and the Campus Sacer Horatiorum are to be sought for, as well as the site of the Fossa Cluilia. (Vide Map.) Strabo also mentions Festi (^r)crTOi^ as a place beyond the fifth mile-stone, (vide Festi,) where was the ancient limit of the Eoman state. Livy's expression, (lib. i, 23,) " that the Fossa Cluilia was not more than five miles from the city," is perhaps to be regarded as meaning that it was not so far as the sixth milestone; for at the distance of five miles and a quarter, are the remains of a greater number of tombs than in any former part of the road, and some of them apparently of more consequence, which show that the spot had some peculiar recommen- dation as a place of sepulture. It is evident that many of these sepulchres resembled obelisks; and some are so near together that they could have had no other form ; and, in very early times, this was the most likely to be selected. 80 APP In examining remains of Roman antiquity, it is always to be remembered that marble not being the natural production of the soil, Avas not used till the later times of the republic, when the greater part of the then civilized world had been subdued. This test should be applied to the sepulchres on the Appian Way. Cluilius, the king of Alba, having taken the field against Tullus Hostilius, encamped near the fifth mile from the city, and, while the two armies Avere in sight, fortified himself with the dyke called the Fossa Cluilia. (Liv. lib. i. 23. Vide also Plutarch in 7ita Coriolani, and Dionysius, lib. iii. 4.) The Eomans likewise in- trenched their camp, so that a space divided the tAVO armies, and the tAvo states. The Albans being conquered, and their country, as a separate state, destroyed, their Availed camp fell of course into the hands of the Eomans; Avho seem to have preserved not only the memory of the facts, but to have spoken of the locality during imperial times, as a matter of common notoriety. " Capena grandi porta qua pluit gutta, Phrygifequc Matris Almo qua lavat ferrum, Horatiorum qua viret Sacer Campus, Et qua pusilli fervct Hcvculis Fanuni, Faustine, plena Bassus ibat in Rheda; Omnes beati copias trahons ruris. Illic vidercs frutice uobili caulos." Martial, lib. iii. cpig. 47. Livy says, that ^^ the sepulchres of the Horatii and Curiatii exist AAliere each of them respectively fell : the tAvo Roman tombs being together, and on the side of Alba; and the three Alban se])ulchres toAvards Rome, and apart from each other." (Lib. i. 25.) A large castellated farm-house, built from the plunder of ancient tombs, is situated close to the Appian Way, on the left., On the right, just before it, may be perceived a AAall, erected Avith large blocks of peperino, standing at right angles Avith the road, and in its con- struction, as Avell as in the magnitude of the blocks, quite different from every thing else in the country. Bome of the stones arc more than nine feet in length. APP 81 More than two hundred and fifty feet of this singular Avail yet remain. Being so well fortified^ it is much more probable that this should be the spot, which was down to a late period called the Campus Sacer Hora- tiorum, than, as some have supposed, the Ustrina, or place for l3urning the dead, — for which the authority is at least doubtful. The wall is in most parts composed of three courses of stone, and is only one stone in thickness. The two subjoined sketches of the style of building, show how different it is from the Eoman manner in latter times, and indeed even from those of Servius. "^^^.r CAMPUS SACER IIORATIOUUM. This is the highest point of the plain, and is a most commanding situation. Here are the ruins of some sepulchres, seemingly of consequence. On the left of the road, stood an iEdicula : beyond this, are other tombs, and a building which seems to have been a fountain ; and before it, a large monument, which may have been a circle upon a square basement, like that of Cjecilia Metella. The masonry is reticulated, and steps run to the summit. The ruins called Eoma Yecchia stand on the left of the Appian, at the distance of above two hundred yards, and on the edge of a summit or stratum of lava, just opposite the fifth milestone on G 82 APP the post-road to Albano. The ruins are of brick, (marked svbvrbanvm commodi,) and are believed by Professor Nibby to be those of a villa of the Emperor Commodus. They passed for some time as the ruins of the Pagus Lemonius. The palace was large, and con- tained a theatre and other princely apartments. Pom- ponius Letus, the learned antiquary, says, that in his time, the sepulchre of the Tullian family, (situated at this part of the Via Appia,) being opened, the body of Tulliola, daughter of M. Tullias Cicero, was found in good preservation, with every feature uncorrupted. Pope Alexander YI., fearing that such a discovery should lead to a superstitious veneration of the relics, had them thrown into the Tyber. Gruter gives an inscription of the Tullian family, said to have been found here. At about the sixth mile, is Casal Rotondo, a circular building or farm-house, placed on the ruins of a tomb, not less than one hundred and tAventy feet in diameter. It is here, that antiquaries have generally placed the Campus Sacer, the Horatian Tombs, the Fossa Cluilia, and the Ustrina; but all their calculations proceeding upon the mistaken supposition that the gate of San Sebastiano occupied the site of the old Porta Capena, are necessarily inaccurate. — The remains of the ancient aqueduct are here on the left. Tor di Selci is another tower, having, like the former, the remains of a tomb for its foundation. BetAveen this and the eighth mile, just before the road descends into a hollow, are the ruins of the Temple of Hercules, mentioned by Martial. The Torre di Mezza Via is near the place. Of this temple, fragments of the peperino columns ma}'^ be found : by excavation, the entire plan might, perhaps, be discovered. Martial, speaking of it, says, " Sextus ab Albana quem colit Arce lapis." It is difficult to understand this passage ; for six miles is too little for the distance from Albano*, though it would be * The ancients seem, however, always to set down, as indicating the distance of a place, the milestone last passed, however considerable the distance at which it may have been left behind. APP 83 exactly correct with regard to Alba Longa ; but this Martial could scarcely have intended. Pratilli says it is eight miles from Rome : in this he is right, though seldom correct on other points. Fabretti believes that Domitian had a suburban villa here. The road having descended from the high bed of lava, a Schola, or circular seat, such as was common among tombs, is seen on the left ; and a tower of the lower ages, on the right. On a sort of insulated mount in the hollow, are the ruins of a fortification, which Professor Mbby says are those of the Castrum Florani, a place now represented by some farm-houses, called Fiorano, a little further on, at about nine miles ; — -just beyond the point where the Via Appia has again mounted to the top of the lava ridge. Here the ancient and modern roads approximate. Mile y, on the modern poast-road, agrees with about five miles and one-third of the ancient Appian ; but the irregularities of the post-road near the Torre di Mezza Yia, (where the Jerusalem Itinerary places Ad N^ono,) bring it here much nearer to the ancient Appian ; but it is not till about Mile XII. that they may be considered as absolutely coinciding as to distance ; here, at the turn by the Villa Barberini, the two are united at Frat- tocchie, and the post-road loses the advantage it had gained by having set out from the Porta di S. Giovanni, instead of from the ancient Capena. Beyond Fiorano, an ancient road ran from the Appian to the right, over the Ponte delle Streghe, and the vestiges of the city of Appiola may be seen. ( Vide Appiola.) About the ninth mile, a modern road to Marino turns from the post-road, on the left; and near it, betw^een the two roads, the ruins of a great tomb form a Tumulus. Aurelius Victor says, that nine miles from the city, on the Appian Way, was the sepulchre of Gal- lienus. Here is a spot of ground, white with sulphur, and emitting a most offensive smell. At the tenth mile is a brook from the Fonte dei Monaci, which, after passing the Ponte del Cipollaro, runs under the Appian, and which many have mistaken G 2 84 Aipp for the Aqua Ferentina. At this part of tlie road, five large tombs present a conspicuous appearance. It is here that the ascent toward Frattocchie begins ; and here the Itineraries have been thought to have placed Bovilhx? ; though some confusion has been occasioned Avith respect to its precise site, by variations in the position of the Porta Capena at different periods. From this point, the Via Appia begins to ascend, through modern inclosures. To the right, a path runs from a circular tomb ; and, by again mounting the stream of lava, another valley from Frattocchie is seen, Avith its small stream, on each of which are vestiges of ancient towns, possibly Appiola and Mugilla. In an inclosure on the right of the Appian, is a pillar, which, having been thrown down, is now replaced as nearly as possible in its original situation. It is of con- sequence, being the pillar placed by Boscowich, the astronomer, who measured the distance from it, to the tomb of Ciccilia Metella. An Italian inscription says, ^' This pillar belongs to the base measured by I. P. Maire and Boscovvich, in the year 1751, per servire a grado di Eoma — 5o,6(S'2\ palms."' According to Boscowich, the site of the pillar is ninety-three paces above the sea. His paces are of five feet, and his palms are about two inches less than a foot. Why he should have chosen so uneven a number of palms for his base, and for what reason he should have so selected his two extremities, that the one (the tomb of Camellia Metella) should be twenty-six, and the other (the pillar in question) should be ninety-three paces above the level of the sea, is inconceivable; and, indeed, Messrs. Calandrelli and others, who published some ob- servations while our Map was engraving, were obliged to measure another l^ase, on level ground. It is impos- sible to measure angles up to this pillar, from any dis- tance ; nor is it easy to see many points from it. It is marked in tlie ]\Iap, Colonna di Boscowich, being the only name by Avhich it is known. The angle between Monte Genaro and Capo di Bove, is 66° 30'; between J\Ionte Genaro and Monte Cave, APP 85 70" 4:0 ; and that between Monte Genaro and St. Peter's dome, 08° 40'. The long and direct line of the Via Appia is beauti- fully seen from this spot, as far as the Tomb of Ciccilia Metella. At Frattocchie, beyond Mile XI,, the road to Antium quits the Yia Appia, and here the ancient and modern roads are the same. At Frattocchie, anticpiaries suppose the encounter between Milo and Clodius to haA^e taken place, and here was the ancient Bovilla?, or at least the Sacrarium of the Gens Julia. (^Vide Bovilhw) Many tombs, and some of them curious, known by inscriptions to have belonged to the families Aruntia, Antista, Yatinia, and Cascellia, ornament the ascent to Albano, on each side. The road passes, by a bridge, the now dry bed of the Eivus Albanus ; (^ride Albanus Eivus;) and, on the ascent, an ancient road crossed the Appian to Alba Longa. ( Vide Alba Longa.) The new road to Castel Gandolfo turns off to the left, and a road to the right leads to that to Antium. The sepul- chre, supposed that of Pompey, about Mile XIY. on the left, is a striking object ; and soon after this is the gate of the modern Albano, whence a road on the left leads to Castel Gandolfo. (Vide Albano.) Just beyond Albano is the monument which was so long and so absurdly called that of the Horatii and Curiatii. A better knowledge of antiquity now points it out as that of Aruns, the son of Porsenna, to whose monument at Clusium it bears a considerable degree of resemblance*. After this the Appian descends into the Yal Aricia, where, on the left, are the ruins of Aricia, sixteen miles, or one hundred and twenty stadia, from Rome, Avhicli are of a peculiar style. ( Vide Aricia.) After this the substructions and the mound which * The view here adopted is that of Xibby ; but the Cav. Canuia, whose great architectural knowledge entitles his opinion on such points to the utmost weight, has satisfactorily shown that the monument now existing cannot belong to a period earlier than the latter ages of tho Eoman republic ; though, from its peculiar form and construction, it may probably be an imitation of some far earlier Etruscan monument. (See the Annali ddV Istituto, 1837, p. 57.) S6 APP raised the ancient Way above the level of the plain, (once a lake, and at a still more remote period a crater,) are worthy of observation. The most perfect portion will be found under the church of the Madonna del Galloro. At this point an arched passage for the water from the upper ground runs obliquely under the Appian. The substructions consist of not less than twenty-four horizontal courses of ponderous blocks. The perpen- dicular lines are seldom attended to, so that few of the stones are correct parallelograms ; and, except that the Eoman and Etruscan manner of placing alternate courses of long and short stones is somewhat preserved, the masonry is singularly capricious. One course is smooth, the next highly rusticated, the next less so, the course above is left with large, rough, projecting knobs, such as the Italians call bugni, and the next is quite smooth*. From this spot the Way mounted to the right of the modern Genzano, supposed Grentianum, Qvide Gen- zano,) and then continued nearly in the same track as the modern road, leaving Lanuvium to the right. At the ruined castle and Ponte di San Gennarello, (dis- tant about twenty miles by the ancient road,) the Yia Ai)pia quits the modern road to Yelletri, and may be observed descending to the plain and the Pontine Marshes, where remains of sepulchres continue to mark its course. The Mutatio Ad Tres Tabernas was seven miles from Aricia, or twenty-three from Rome ; and Cicero says there was a road thence to Antium, which must have crossed the Appian here to Yelitrfe. The Mutatio, however, was not exactly at the twenty-third mile. Its distance exceeded twenty-three miles, but was not twenty-four complete. Between San Gennarello and the Tres Tabernae, at Mile XXII. and two-thirds, is a place called Civitone, a name which usually implies the site of an ancient city ; and at Mile XXIII. the road passes through a certain * [An elaborate description of these very remarkable substructions by the Cav. Canina will be found in the Annali dell' Istituto, 1837. — E. B.] APP 87 bank or Agger, which may be discovered from the heights near Lanuvium. The Appian joins the road from Yelletri to Cisterna at Mile XXXII of the modern, or XXVII and a half of the ancient Way. At Castelli it again quits the post- road, and is lost ; but leaving Cisterna to the right, joins it again at a sepulchre near the thirty-third mile of the Appian, whence they continue together nearly to Terracina. In the Map the road is not carried beyond the j)oint where it leaves Cisterna. In the foregoing account a more particular attention has been bestowed upon those portions of the road which, though particidarly interesting, are seldom visited, than upon places of greater notoriety. ApPIOLA ; APPIOLiE. H-moXa. There Avas scarcely any city in the vicinity of Eome taken by the first kings, which, if suffered to remain, in consequence of a treaty of peace, was not afterwards retaken and destroyed for rebellion. Thus Appiola was compelled by Ancus Marcius to make a treaty of peace, which, on the death of that king, it violated, under pre- tence that the agreement was made only with him. Tarquin accordingly marched against the city with a great force, laid waste the country, and having twice defeated the Latin auxiliaries of Appiola, attacked the town itself, and after some time the place was taken. Most of the male inhabitants had been slain during the siege ; the remainder Avere sold as slaves, and their Avives and children Avere taken to Rome. The houses Avere then burnt, and the walls levelled. The spoil of Appiola, says Livy, (lib. i. 35,) AAas so considerable, as to enable Tarquin to erect the Circus Maximus, and to celebrate the games aa ith greater magnificence than any of his predecessors. When it is said that the Avails Avere destroyed, nothing more is, perhaps, meant, that that they were rendered unserA'iceable for defence. There is a ruin situated on the right of the Via Appia, at about the tenth mile from Rome, Avhich may 88 APP be that of Appiola: it differs from ruined towns in general, in having few or no traces of the walls ; but it presents some vestiges of a public building. It would be unfair to deny that it is its situation, so near the Appian Way, which has caused it to be supposed Appiola, rather than Politorium. From a part of the Appian Way, near Fiorano, an ancient road runs in a direction which shows that Tuscu- lum was its object; and this passed over the Ponte della Strega, or dcUe Streghe, (for any absolute certainty of name it is impossible to acquire in a country without inhabitants,) a bridge formed of large antique blocks. The road, previous to its arriving at the bridge, becomes more distinct, and passes over a narrow slip of volcanic rock, the top of which, being a platform, was, perhaps, occupied by the houses, and its edges may have been the foundation of the walls of the town. This forms one side of the valley, down which runs the brook, or Fosso di Frattocchie. The descent to the bridge is cut in the rock, and, having been much worn by frequent passage, has been paved. At the end of this long platform, toward Albano, is a reservoir of water, of Roman times, and part of a column near it. Further on is another ruin, and soon after a well or cistern, which may be of greater anti- quity. ]^ear this, lie, or were lying a few years ago, several blocks of Alban stone, or peperino ; one of which was a cornice, cut upon a block five palms long, and with a moulding different from that of any order at pre- sent known, two palms in height. The Avorkmanship also appears rude, and of remote antiquity. Near these, of which several fragments remained, were some other blocks, bespeaking an antiquity infinitely beyond that of the brick Eoman villa standing on the same spot*. There are many other pieces, all belonging to what was probably a very ancient temple; and among them a block and cornice, six feet by three. Near the villa is a pit, evidently another reservoir; * It is well known that the Romans were accustomed to establish their villas on the sites of ancient towns. AQU 89 and on the ridge running from the site of the town to that part of the Via Appia which enters the inclosed ground near Frattocchie, are traces of other ruins : these are not sufficiently perfect to be described; but they perhaps serve to show that the places with which the city of Appiola had most connection, prior to its destruc- tion, were Bovilla? and Alba Longa. Upon the eminence that bounds the valley of the Fosso di Frattocchie, on the opposite side, are further remains of the road and other ruins; so that it is pro- bable that on this spot existed another of the little toAvns of Latium. This, in the IMap, is called Mugilla. (F/f/eMugilla.) Scarcely two miles lower down the stream arc ruins of another city, which was at first thought to l3e Appiola, and afterwards Tellene; but general opinion has at length given it the name of Politoriimi. (T7Je Polito- rium.) The modern name is La Giostra. Appiola is more than a mile from the Pontc del CipoUaro on the Appian, and about two from Frattoc- chie. It may have derived its name from the word Appia, (a species of vase or vessel;) which word, being formed from ad and pT.eo, ought, in the opinion of some, to be written Appia. Aqua Appia. This water was brought to Eome by Appius Claudius C. F. C^ecus, during his censorship. (^Vide Aqueducts.) Aqua Ardeatina. (Vide Ardea.) Aqua Crabra. A collection of waters on the hill of Tusculum. Cicero says it Avas brought to the city from the Tusculan region, which could not have been done without lofty aqueducts. There was formerly much dispute con- cerning the water at Tusculum, as there is also at present. The Aqua Crabra is supposed to be the Marrana, and this is supplied by the Aqua^ Ferentina^, which are conveyed by an artificial canal to Centrone, near La Cregna. ( Vide Aqu£ie Ferentina?.) 90 AQU AqU^ FERENTINiE*. LUCUS ET TeMPLUM FeRENTIN^. The fountain of the Aqua Ferentina, or, as Cluver (Lib. ii. p. 719) calls it, Caput Aquae Ferentinoe, has hitherto been supposed to rise at the rock under the modern town of Marino, at a spot just below the road from Castel Gandolfo, known to artists for its pic- turesque beauty. That is not, however, the real source ; this is to be found by pursuing* the road toward Rocca di Papa, to a short distance beyond the little church of S. Eocca (marked in the Map, S.R.), where a path, turning off on the right, traverses first a height, and then descends into the glen of the Aqua?. Ferentinae ; it is not accessible below, on account of walls, and other impediments. Some vestiges of cutting may be traced in the rocks by this route; but a moist hollow, like this, bounded by friable tufo banks, and cultivated for canes, can scarcely have retained many traces of antiquity. Few glens are prettier than that which extends from the real source to the reputed fountain; the former pro- prietor, Prince Colonna, having discovered its beauties, walled it in, and thus inclosed the fountain. The Map presents many of the details of the place, not before known to antiquaries; access having been, till lately, somewhat difficult. The water, which is clear and cold, rises under a pei'pendicular face of tufo rock, which has been cut in ancient times; or, at least, the orifice seems to have been heightened. In front, some modern masonry, at a distance of only a few feet from the rock, has been con- structed, (probably by way of damming up the stream for a mill,) and if any vestiges of antiquity remained, this has completely destroyed them. In an insulated rock, a few yards above the fountain, is a small cave. This source was but a short distance below the city of Alba Longa, and very probably supplied the inhabi- tants of the northern extremity of that extended place. * Festus calls this fountain, "Caput CEtentine quod est sub Monte Albano." It is not imjoossible that this may be a mistake for Ferentine. AQU 91 Liviiis sajs that Tarquinius Superbiis, having ap- pointed a meeting of the Latin chiefs at this spot, (''ad Lucum Ferentinae/') did not arrive himself till the evening, though the others came at day-break; for ■which neglect, one of them, Turnus Herdonius of Aricia, had, in the mean time, inveighed bitterly against him. Tarquin, arriving, made his excuses; but Turnus, dis- satisfied, quitted the assembly. Greatly provoked, Tar- quin hired a servant to hide a number of swords within the tent of Turnus, and, early on the following morning, denounced him, as intending to assassinate his col- leagues, and as having deferred it only because Tarquin had not arrived in time. The chiefs accompanied Tar- quin to the tent of Turnus, and surrounded it while he yet slept ; and the swords being discovered, Turnus was thrown chained into the fountain, (''ad caput aquae Ferentinae,") and a hurdle being then placed over him, and stones cast upon it, he was drowned. (Lib. i. 50, 51.) It is to be observed, that, but for the stones, the water would not have been deep enough to drown him. The authenticity of the history is much confirmed by its exact, and apparently unstudied, correspondence with the locality: and. a strong interest is at the same time given to this sequestered valley. It has been mentioned in the article Almo, that the Aqua Ferentina was possibly the remote source of that river. It was also conveyed, by an artificial channel, to a spot called Centrone, near Morena, on the Via Latina, whence, as the Marrana, or Aqua Crabra, it finds its way to Eome. There was a Porta Ferentina, which is said to have been superseded by the Porta Latina; it overlooked the valley of the Marrana, and the present Porta Metronia. Could this name have any allusion to the water, or only to its distant source, at which the Ferias were held ? The Aqua Ferentina, after passing below Marino, crosses from the left to the right of the road to Eome, at the foot of the hill near a fountain ; at this place it is called Marrana del Pantano, or a name equivalent. There is a direct road from the place to LTntavo- lato, or Tavolato, and the brook seems to have accom- 92 AQU panic d it when in its natural state; Init it is now artifi- cially diverted to Centrone and the Crabra. It would be interesting to know Avhether this source is on a higher or lower level than the present surface of the Alban Lake, which is 919 French feet above the sea. The citadel of Alba Longa may be about 1200. The source of the Aquai Ferentina?, says Pompeius Festus, was the place at Avhich the council of Latium met from the time of the destruction of Alba, till the consulship of P. Decius Mus, in the year U. C. 415. AQUiE LABANiE. The Aquaj Labanse Avere certain mineral Avaters, in the country of the Sabines, near I^omentum. Their source is at present called by the name of I Bagni di Grotta Marozza ; and is at a little insulated mount near the ancient Via ^S^omentana, or Salaria, Avhere are some remains of ancient buildings. The Abbe Chaupi seems to have thought he had found the Aqu?c Labanre at La Flora, or the Madonna della Souga ; but the Abbe is seldom intelligible. Aqua Yiva. A Mutatio on the Via Flaminia, Avhich is noted thus : — Uvhe Roma. RuLras Ad Vicesimum Aqua Viva Utriculo Niirnirc Interamna VIII. XI. XII. XII. XII. IX. This road seems to have passed near the present Civita Castellana, but not through it Aqueducts. As the ancient aqueducts of Rome liaA-e been the subject of much controversy and of many dissertations, our notice of them Avill be but brief. The Anio Xovus and the Aqua Claudia united within AHA 93 the city, and were distributed tlirougli the whole of Rome by means of ninety-two reservoirs, or castella. The Aqua Julia had seventeen reservoirs in the city, and served the third, fifth, sixth, eighth, tenth, and twelfth regions. The Aqua Tepula filled fourteen reservoirs, and was distributed in the fourth, fifth, sixth, and eighth re- gions. The Aqua Martia had fifty-one reservoirs, and supplied regions three, four, five, six, eight, nine, and fourteen. The Anio Yetus had thirty-five reservoirs, and served regions one, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, thirteen, and fourteen. The Aqua Yirgo had eighteen castella, and supplied the regions seven, eight, and fourteen. The Aqua Appia had twenty reservoirs, and served regions two, five, eight, nine, eleven, twelve, thirteen, and fourteen. The Aqua Alsietina supplied all the region beyond the Tyber. This is now called the Acqua Paola. Of the modern aqueducts, the chief is that of Trevi, celebrated for the purity of its water; it is so called, not from the town of Trevi, at the source of the Anio, but from the church In Triviis, near the fountain. The Acqua Felice and the Acqua di Termini are con- sidered less limpid and less salubrious than the Trevi. Ara Jani. ( Vide Riano.) ArA MiTTIiE. This place, which anciently belonged to the Veientes, is on the summit of a hill, which rises to a considerable height, and has been of great use in the triangulation for the Map, being seen from every part of the Cam- pagna. A beautiful grove on the top of the hill has been preserved through the superstition of the inha- bitants of the neighbouring village of Scrofano, who imagine that the felling of the trees would cause the death of the head of each family. 94 ARA SUMMIT OF MONTE MIJSINO. A long description would scarcely give so good an idea of the place as a rough sketch ; the above being from a bird's eye view, taken on the spot, the per- spective has been altered. The lower circular terrace is about sixty feet in breadth, and the upper forty. On the top or third terrace was a large circular building, as the fragments show; but the stones are small, and united with cement, so that it is impossible to judge Avhen it was erected. Perhaps it was the altar. ( Vide Yeii.) This curious spot may he reached either from For- mello or Campagnano. The herdsmen have an idea, that in a cave near the summit is a treasure, guarded by daemons, who persecute the curious with tempests. In making observations from the summit, for the Map, the cave was, on one occasion, the only shelter from a tempest ; and this, lasting six hours, strongly confirmed the rustics in their superstition. From Monte Musino, the Villa Mellini and St. Peter's may be seen, in the same line. La Storta and the Isola Farnese are also in line. The high peak and tower at Baccano are 3° right of Rocca Eomana, which is 88° 50' from the Tumulus on Monte Aguzzo. Thence to Castel Giubileo 53° 20'. — Soracte, Mont Albano, Palestrina, and almost every remarkable spot may be seen from this summit. ARC 95 Arco di Olevano. This is an arch cut in a rough manner tlirough a tufo rock, and evidently intended to facilitate the passage of the road from the Capanna below CorcoUo, to the small modern village of S. Yittorino, a place with about fifty inhabitants, containing the baronial house of the Prince Barberini. The hill has been deeply cut aAvay on each side, and, where it was less expensive to perforate the rock than to remove the whole, this arch is left. It is only about the breadth of the arch of an ordinary bridge, which it somewhat resembles. A road, now made passable, falls in from Poll, on the Eoman side, down a steep hill. On the side next San Yittorino, it descends to a bridge, and then mounts another hill, at the top of which, by lifting a carriage up a rocky bank, it is possible, with a guide, to pro- ceed to Tivoli, as is shown in the Map, the direct road having been long impassable. Near the little river of San Yittorino are vestiges of an ancient road, and other antiquities, which may, perhaps, be ascribed to the vicinity of Adrian's villa. I^othing is so difficult as to obtain information in a country like this, Avhere there are so few inhabitants : if one be by chance found, he knows nothing, and perhaps excuses himself by saying he is from Pesaro or Ancona. It would therefore be presumption for a foreigner to speculate whether the Arco di Olevano was cut by a Prince Barberini, or whether it was formed by the Emperor Adrian as an approach to his splendid villa, ArdEA. ApSea. Ardea was the capital of the Eutuli, a nation or tribe occupying a small territory on the coast, between Laurentum and Antium. It still retains its name, and has one hundred and seventy-six inhabitants. Other towns, as well as this, the capital, existed in the region. (Dionys. lib. i.) The boundaries of the Eutuli were the river Kumicus, Aricia, Lanuvium, and Corioli, or per- haps Antium. 96 ARD Ardca was said to have been founded by an Argive colony, descended from Danae and Acrisius. (Yirgil, ^n. vii. 408.) Before tlie arrival of the Grecian colo- nists, the Aborigines and Pelasgi possessed the country. Strabo gives it the epithet, " Ancient," apxatav ApSeav; and Pliny speaks of pictures at Ardea, in good preserva- tion, as being more ancient than the foundation of Rome. (Pliny, lib. xxxv. 6.) The Rutuli, the Auruncse, and the Sicani, seem to have been either nearly con- nected or the same tribes. Virgil (lib. vii.) says, "Aurunc^eque manus, Putuli, veteresque Sicani ; " and, according to both Virgil and Silius, the Latins seem to have been very nearly the same people. Ardea, as the capital of the nearest hostile prince, is conspicuous in the history of the Italian wars of ^neas; and it seems to have continued a place of some consequence till after the time of Tarquinius Su- perbus, who, from motives of avarice, besieged the city. (Livy, lib. i. 58.) Tarquin, having lost his crown during the siege, through the efforts of Brutus and Col- latinus, a truce with Ardea was agreed upon for fifteen years. The Ardeatines seem to have subsequently fallen under the Poman yoke without much contest, after being weakened by internal dissensions, which had greatly reduced the number of its inhabitants ; and so much had Ardea lost of its consequences at so early a period as the sixty-seventh year of the Republic, U. C. 312, that a colony was sent from Rome to help to repeople the place. (F/(/e Livy, lib. iv. 11.) Juvenal (Sat. 12) says tliat the Emperors kept droves of elephants in the meadows near Ardea. ^lian gives an account of the elephants bred and disciplined in the Roman territory. " They marched in troops into the amphitheatre, scattering flowers, and_ were, to the number of six of each sex, feasted in public on splendid triclinia, their food being spread on tables of cedar and ivory, in gold and silver dishes and goblets.'' Pliny (I^at. Hist. lib. viii. 2) says, that four of them even car- ried on a litter a supposed sick companion, walking like a dancer upon a rope. In the territory of Laurentum ARD 97 was a place called Ad Helepliantas^ where these animals were kept, as is shown by an inscription given in Griiter, No. 2, page 391. (Vide Ad Helephantas.) Ai'dea was reputed seventy stadia from the sea, a distance so much beyond the truth, (it is no more than thirtj'-two in a direct line,) that it is only by supposing that the Ardeatines had a station for boats, somewhere about the modern tower of St. Anastasio, to which the distance in question was referred, that any reasonable explanation of the computation can be obtained. There was a place called Aphrodisium, on or near the coast, where the Latins held a fair. The name was probably derived from 'AcppoSirr]^ the mother of ^neas ; this hero, according to Livy, (lib. ii.,) having been lost in the neighbouring river Numicus. This place was north of the natural opening of Ardea, toAvard the sea. On the other side, toward Antium, was the Castrum Inui, which may have been a station for such boats as could be draAvn up upon the beach. For a long time Ardea was. supposed to have occu- pied only the hill of the small modern village, contain- ing one hundred and seventy-six inhabitants, thinly scattered over its surface ; and it was only in con- structing the Map, which accompanies this Avork, that the modern Ardea was found to be no more than the citadel of the ancient town, which Avas at least six times more extensive. The baronial mansion of the Duca di Cesarini, who noAv possesses almost all the country of the Rutuli, from N^emi to the coast, occupies nearly the Avhole breadth of the citadel of Ardea, on the side next the sea. The other extremity Avas by nature joined to a high table- land formed by a ravine on each side ; but the isthmus having been cut through in a very singular manner, has left three deep and broad ditches, separated by tAvo piers of natural rock. This is the more curious, as it does not appear that these piers could have served as a bridge to the citadel, on account of their distance from each other ; and though the ditch added to the strength of the fortress, yet this cannot be supposed to have been completely separated from the city. Moreover, H 98 ARD the rock of the citadel is much higher than these two natural piers. A road, either covered or open, probably passed, as at present, into the northern valley. — Here it may be well to remark, that the wall of the citadel of Ai'dea is built, (like almost all others constructed of tufo,) of blocks either parallelograms, or nearly so, though sufficiently irregular to indicate high antiquity. A small portion, wonderfully resembling the construc- tion on the Campus Sacer, is here given as a specimen of the whole, that an opportunity may be afforded for judging on the subject which has attracted much notice*. WALLS OF ARDEA. Niebuhr, the celebrated historian of Eome, in page 170 of the first volume of the English translation of his History, enumerates Ardea amongst the Cyclopian cities of Italy; and represents its walls, like those of Prseneste and Alba of the Marsi, as composed of enormous poly- gonal blocks, similar to those of Tiryns; but this is probably an oversight of that writer, as, in page 484 of the same volume, Ardea is correctly described as sur- rounded by walls built of square blocks of tufo. [* The small portion hero represented would, however, convey a very exaggerated notion of the degree of irregularity observable in the walls of Ai'dea. A very considerable ])ortion of these, which still forms the wall of the modern town on the north side, is built of square blocks of tufo, almost as regularly arranged in alternate courses of long and short stones as that of the Tabularium at Rome. A kind of tower, or bastion, projecting from the line of the walls, has apparently been added in the middle ages, though built principally of the ancient blocks. — B.B.] ARD 99 Vestiges of these walls can Le discovered only by a close inspection ; as they lie here and there, amongst the bushes on the edge of the i^recipices which bounded them. With respect to the walls of Prseneste and of Alba of the Marsi, they are incorrectly called Cyclopian, con- structed as they are, of purely polygonal blocks, without that intermixture of smaller stones to fill up the inter- stices of the larger ones ; which, according to Pausanias, is the characteristic of the Cyclopian masonry ; as the purely polygonal construction may be denominated that of the Pelasgic. Tavo streams, one of which is evidently derived from the Lake of N^emi, and the vale or lake of Aricia, had, long before Ardea was built, worn valleys, which had left an eminence between them as a site for the city. The top is nearly a flat, having originally formed part of the great plain which extended from the mountain of Albano to the sea. At the western side of the city, these valleys ap- proach each other, leaving a narrow isthmus for the entrance to the city from the east ; this isthmus is con- siderably strengthened by a high mound, or agger, extending from valley to valley, which supported, or rather backed a wall, whence, in all probability, the idea of the Roman agger of Servius TuUius was originally taken. A gap or cut exists, through which was the ancient entrance to the city ; and in this is the ruin of a tower, fixing the site of the gate toward Aricia. This mound is called Bastione by some of the people of the place ; but all modern names are to be regarded Avith suspicion when they rest only on the authority of the peasantry. Still more distant from the citadel is another similar mound, stretching also from valley to valley, and this has either been a further enlargement of the city, or a work throAvn up at some time by a besieging army. These mounds are so high that when the sun is over the Mediterranean they are distinguishable from Albano by the naked eye. It is evident, that though an ancient path might have led from the sea to the citadel, as at present, yet H2 100 ARD the great gate of the city was at the east end of the Arx, and coukl only be approached by a deep valley, having the fortress on the left, and the walls and a part of the town on the right. Under these rocks of the city, on the right, is the chapel of Santa Marinella, and two or more reticulated portions of wall of Roman times may be observed. There Avas evidently a street running from the gate near the citadel to that in the agger. From the same gate, another street ran at right angles to the former; and a third gate, toward Antium, is marked by a descent into the valley. The whole area is well protected by steep rocks, which, though not very lofty, must have rendered the place, when walled, im- pregnable. The extent is such, that a considerable population might have existed there; and the place was in fact reputed not only rich and powerful, but was finally sub- dued only by dissensions among the magnates of the city. The neighbouring valleys are pretty. That toward the sea, about three miles in length, is particularly so, and in approaching Ardea from the wild woods and unpeopled coast in the direction of Antium, the traveller is led to expect a more civilized society than he meets ■with on his arrival. About twenty-two houses exist in the citadel. That of the feudal proprietor is a sort of castellated mansion, situated on the point of the bluff rock. The modern gate is under the north end of this house, and is composed almost entirely of the old blocks of the citadel, which impart to it an air of respectable antiquity. The rocks seem to present a natural opening here, but the road has been cut, and much labour has been bestowed in rendering the ascent practicable. To the left, on entering, are curious excavations, which would almost seem to have endangered the wall, if anciently constructed. At the distance of half a mile, and on the left of the road from Ardea to the sea, (the road is passable for carriages,) are indications of walls, and a passage cut in the rock to the top of another knoll, like Ardea. The place is marked Rudera in the Map, and the rock is so ARD 101 full of excavations, like sepulchres, that it may perhaps have been the i^^ecropolis of Ardea ; an adjunct which it is probable every city possessed. Another castle- like ruin, lower down in the valley, is also marked Rudera. The names of these places, and the dates of their construction, are as yet unknown. There were two places of the Ardeatine territory, the Castrum Inui, or of Pan, and Aphrodisium, whose sites have not yet been determined. It would perhaps be hazardous to fix upon the hitherto unnoticed places marked Rudera, as the Castrum Inui, and the Aphrodi- sium, or Temple of Venus ; as the most distant of them is only two miles from Ardea. Strabo, indeed, describes them as irX^qaiov, near, though this word must be allowed to be somewhat indefinite ; and Strabo is, besides, a very random Avriter. Ardea is about twenty-two miles and a half distant from the modern gate of St. Sebastian, at Rome. Strabo, with his usual incorrectness, gives one hundred and sixty stadia as the distance, or about twenty miles. Eutropius is still more inaccurate, and says Ardea is only eighteen miles from Rome. Many vestiges of the ancient Via Ardeatina may be observed on the road. At the distance of four miles and a half from the town, at the church of Santa Procula, the road crosses the usually dry bed of the Rio Torto, (supposed the ancient Is^umicius, or Numicus, because the only torrent between Ardea and Lavinium,) mid- way between these two places, as it passes in a direct line through the forest, at about three miles from each. The people pretend, that after rains the water rises with such rapidity and violence that the road is frequently rendered impassable, and that persons have been carried away and droAvned by the flood, as ^neas is said to have been. The grove of Jupiter Indiges, and his temple, might have been at Santa Procula, or at Magione. It is exceedingly difficult to say why ^neas, a foreigner, should have become a &eo9 %^orio9, and have been honoured Avith a temple, because he Avas droAA-ned in a torrent; as Dionysius says Avas recorded in an inscrip- tion at the temple. (Lib. i. p. 52.) 102 ARD The fountain of Juturna was near the river ^N'umi- cus; and if the valley called Cerquetello, (from its oaks,) were searched, it might possibly be found. At the distance of eight miles and a half is seen, on the right, the village of Solfatara; this, on account of its sulphureous productions, some have taken for the site of the Lucus et Oraculum Fauni, which Latinus, the king of Laurentum, consulted, on the arrival of ^neas. The Aquae Albulae have been considered as too distant from Laurentum, considering the short time allowed by Virgil for the journey. However this may be, it is extremely probable that the name of the place in later times was Aquae Ardeatinae; which Yitruvius says were cold, sulphureous, and of an unpleasant odour. The Lake of Turnus, which these waters are supposed to have supplied, is no longer visible, nor indeed any lake, unless we so designate the small pond marked in the Map, between this place and Pratica. There is nothing further worthy of particular ob- servation before the seventeenth mile; when, near Ya- lerano, we cross the dry beds of the different branches of the Eivus Albanus, and that branch of the great cur- rent of lava from the volcano of Monte Cavo, which supplies the streets of modern Eome with selci, or paving-stones. From the workmen here may be ob- tained specimens of the curious and beautiful crystal- lizations found in the lava. From this point the Ardeatina becomes so con- founded with other roads, that it is scarcely yet decided which is the ancient Yia. After the twenty- third mile from Ardea, the road enters Rome by the gate of St. Sebastian. Ardea may be about eleven miles from Laurentum, which was the nearest kingdom on that side. It is not less than twelve miles from Albano by the shortest way, which is a mere cart-road, though its distance is commonly considered only nine miles. Aricia — Lariccia. A small town under the Alban mountain, about a mile from Albano, but divided from it by a deep ravine. ARl 103 and having a population of 1,234 inhabitants. The modern to^yn, being the ancient citadel, is difficult of access; nevertheless, the post-road has been carried through it, instead of along the ancient Appian, through the influence of the Papal family of Chigi, who have a large palace and a beautiful park there. Aricia was independent till the Eomans usurped the dominion of Latium. The ancient town extended down the steep declivity, from the citadel to the Appian road in the valley below. Aricia is called sixteen miles from Eome, in two of the Tables. In a third, we find a Bobellas, X. ; Aricia, III. : but here the numbers must be wrong. One hun- dred and twenty stadia are given by Dionysius; but these must be reckoned from the walls of Honorius, or the gate of St. Sebastian. In fact, by the Appian Way, the distance of sixteen miles would be rather too little; but the ancients seem, in general, to give, as the distance of a place, the number of miles marked on the last milestone, even though the place should be considerably nearer to the next. Strabo says, " Beyond the Mons Albanus is the city of Aricia, on the Yia Appia, one hundred and sixty stadia from Rome. The place is in a hollow, but the citadel is strong, and on a summit." He thus makes the distance twenty miles; unless, with his usual incon- sistency, he is speaking of stadia at ten to a mile. The ancients seem to have considered ISTemus and Aricia as one and the same place; thus the Tauric Diana, of the adjacent Nemus, was said to have been consecrated at Aricia. Philostratus also says, that *^ one hundred and twenty stadia from Rome, ApoUonius met with Philolaus, of Cytium, near Nemus, Avliich is in Aricia." (jrept to Ne/xos TO eV ttj 'ApcKeia^ p. 176.) Aricia is first mentioned in history in the time of Tarquinius Superbus, when Turnus Herdonius, its king, or chief magistrate, was thrown into the Aquae Feren- tinae. (Liv. lib. i. 50, 51.) Shortly after this, Porsenna, having made peace with the Romans, attacked Aricia with an Etruscan army; in one of the battles, Aruns, his 104 ARI son, was slain, Avhose monument still exists outside the town of Albano. It seems that Aricia was not entirely suljdued till about the year U.C. 416; (or, according to Patereulus, U.C. 411;) when Lanuvium, Yelitr^, and other places in this direction, were also reduced. It would appear from Festus, Qiii voce Munlcipium,^ that the entire populace were then transported to Eome*. At a later period, the place was made a colonia, and fortified by Sylla; and was in consequence, together with Antium and Lanuvium, sacked by his rival, Marius. The whole of the present population of Lariccia is comprised within the hill of the ancient citadel. This fortress was erected upon strongly-built foundations, seemingly the substructions of a temple; they may be observed on the right, immediately on entering the modern gate, which, with the wall, is built with the ancient blocks of peperino. On the north side of the hill, also, opposite Albano, those who are accustomed to such investigations, may perceive, by careful examination, many portions of the ancient wall of the citadel, in their original position; and on these many of the modern houses are founded. The blocks are parallelograms. The steep descent so abounds with trees, that all are excluded from a sight of these remains, except such as take an interest in antiquarian investigations. Probably the precipice on the south retains other foundations. From the modern town the descent to the Yallericcia (Lacus Aricinusf ) and the Via Appia, has vestiges of [* This is a strange mistake. The words of Festus (or rather of his cpitomizer Paulus Diaconus), "quorum civitas universa in civitatem Romanam venit, ut Avicini," relate to the admission of the citizens to the franchise of the Roman state, which it appears was bestowed upon all those of Aricia at one time, as it was also upon the people of Crere and Anagnia. — E.B.] t Though there is at present no water in the great crater (called A^allericcia) below the town, yet it is clear that before an artificial cut was made, between the houses Pagliarozza and Casalotto, on the lower side of the circuit, the whole must have been one sheet of water, sup- plied from the Lake of Nemi, by subterraneous channels, cither natural or artificial. ARI 10/ liabitatlon. In the valley, and near the ancient road, are ruins of a curious description, apparently the remains of a temple; — this seems to have been first observed by Professor IN'ibby. In its construction there is something very peculiar. It, perhaps, resembles that of the Tauric Diana, the metopes of which, as the Greek tragedian asserts, were open. It is in too dilapidated a state to determine even its order; but the walls, which are of Alban stone, and now sustain a modern roof, are high enough to admit of two stories. The temple must have had nearly the same appearance as that of Juno, still existing at Gabii*. Of the number of columns it is not easy to judge, but the termination of the porticos behind is observable. It is probable that the cell may be somewhat longer than is represented in this plan, but o o o o ggwl o o ^'-^'T^ o o the sketch is sufficiently accurate to show the peculiarity of the building. The dark portion is that now existing. The passage of Yitruvius relating to the Temple of Diana, deserves to be cited: — "Item generibus aliis constituuntur sedes item argutiiis in ^N'emori Dianse, columnis adjectis dextra ac sinistra ad humeros pronai." There is at present a door in the back wall, Avhich, nevertheless, could scarcely liave been any other than the posticinn of the temple. [* With regard to the probable age of this temple it may be observed, that M. Abeken, who has published in the Annall ddV Istitnto for 1840 an elaborate description both of this edifice and the A'ery similar temple of Juno at Gabii, has brought forward strong reasons for assigning them both to the period towards the close of the Roman repubhc. E.B.] lOG ARI It is true tliat these remains may not be those of the Temple of Diana^ but taking Strabo's account into con- sideration, the i)0ssiljihty of their being so is worth noting. He says, " The grove of Diana was on the left of the Via Appia to those who ascended from the valley to the temple." The passage, however, is so corrupted, that it is now almost useless to comment upon it. The Madonna del Galloro, or indeed any other situation to the left of the rising of the road toward Genzano*, may here be understood. The ceremonies of the Temple of Aricia were, ac- cording to Strabo, barbaric and Scj^hian, like those of the Tauric Diana. The priest (Rex Nemorensis) was always a fugitive who had slain his predecessor, and always had in his hand a drawn sword, to defend himself from a similar fate. There was a tree near the temple, whence if a fugitive could approach and carry off a bough, he Avas entitled to the duel, or Monomachia, with the Rex N^emorensis. A most curious basso-relievo was found in the neigh- bourhood some years ago, representing several person- ages, among whom is the priest, lately in possession, lying prostrate, with his entrails issuing from a wound, inflicted by his successor, who stands over him with his sword ; there are also several females in long robes, in the Etruscan style, who seem to invoke the gods. This basso-relievo and the passage of Strabo mutually ex- plain each other. It was bought by a stranger and carried to Russia ; but there is a plate, though now very scarce, and known but to fcAv, (which was made from the marble,) bearing every mark of undoubted authenti- city. " The temple," says Strabo, "is in a grove. Before * This rising of the road, which is here supported by the magnifi- cent substructions ah-eady noticed, (vide Via Appia,) was called the Clivus Aricinus and Clivus Virbii. Juvenal (Sat. iv. 117) speaks of it as in his time haunted by beggars, who were accustomed to assail carriages on the ascent, as the modern road to Genzano is at pre- sent. The people of the place seem to have perpetuated the custom, and even to think they have a right to demand money. ARI 107 it is a lake like the sea. A liigli mountain range encir- cles the temple and the lake, forming a hollow and deep valley." The latter part of this description seems to indicate the Lake of Nemi : but the former expression, "lake like the sea," seems rather to refer to that which anciently existed in the Yallericcia, and is quite inap- plicable to E^emi. The same author says, that " the fountains are also seen, whence the lake is filled, one of which, called the sacred, bears the same name as the genius of the place." This name many have thought to have been Juturna, and some, ^geria; both one and the other are, however, equally uncertain. If, in the lake of IS'emi, there should be found a fountain, (which, as Strabo says, "is very conspicuous,") that must be the Lake of Diana, or Speculum Dianas. — Although this fountain is said by Strabo to have been in his time so conspicuous, yet if not now discoverable, his confused narrative should not prevent the observation of such peculiarities as still exist. Below Aricia, on the left of the Appian, and not far from the temple, are some remains of the wall of the city, of volcanic stone, and of much more irregular work- manship than usual ; and beyond, there exists, in what appears to have been a part of the same cii'cuit, an Emissarium, which is generally supposed that of the Lake of Nemi. This, as Strabo says, would have been conspicuous from the Via Appia, and its internal struc- ture would, as he farther tells us, be concealed. If there be no other, it may have been the fountain of the Arician ^geria. By consulting the Map, it will be seen that this point is much nearer the Lake of Albano than of ^emi. Below the Via Appia in the Yallericcia, or Lacus Aricinus, is the outlet of another Emissary; this is also reputed to have run from the Lake of Nemi — on what evidence I cannot tell. Of the origin of the church of the Madonna del Gal- loro, situated on the height between Aricia and Gen- zano, and of the import of its name, nothing seems to be known. The site of the Temple of Diana and that of the Fountain are worthy of further investigation. 108 ARE Arpinum. (Vide Artena.) Arrone. The Arrone is the natural outlet of the Lake of Bracciano, and runs by Galleria, or Careja, now Galera, and the modern Buccea; after crossing the road to Civita Yecchia^ a little beyond Castel del Guido, it passes near Macearese, and falls into the sea. It is now, from a natural subsidence of the waters of the Lake of Bracciano, and from the diversion of almost all the remainder into the aqueduct of the Acqua Paola, re- duced to a small stream; and in the meadows, near Castel di Guido, it is scarcely six feet wide. The Arrone formerly ran into marshes near the sea, at Fregenae, as it does now near Maccarese, producing unwholesome swamps and malaria in abundance. Arsia Silva. According to Livy, this wood was " in agro Eomano." Valerius Maximus "de Miraculis" places it near Veii. Plutarch, in the Life of Publicola, calls it OTPXOX, which has been translated, Ursus Lucus. It is difficult to point out the exact site of this forest, but it lay in the district between Veii and the coast, and was therefore in that part of Etruria called the Septem Pagi of the Veientes. Perhaps the Arsia Silva was the great wood and valley, on the Acqua Traversa, beyond the third mile, and to the left of the Via Cassia. Arsoli. A small town near the Via Valeria. The baronial mansion is the property of Prince Massimo. The details of its topography are not given, the place not having been examined for the Map. It is said to be six miles from Eio Freddo. There is an ancient Avay to it over the high mountain between La Scarpa and Rovianello, in which, according to the peasants of the neighbourhood, there is a well of curious construction. ART 109 [N^ot far from Arsoli, on the Via Valeria, is, as Pro- fessor i^ibby states, the ancient milestone XXXVIII. ; corresponding with about tliirty-six and a-half of the modern road. At mile thirty-five this gentleman found some polygonal substructions belonging to the ancient road; and also some superstructions intended to prevent the fall of a hill overhanging the road. A church and a spring are near this spot. Artemisius. This seems to be the long line of mountain stretching between Monte Cave or Mt. Albano, and Velletri. Ar- temisius was of course sacred to the Diana of Aricia, or i^emus. Its modern name is Mt. Arriano, which, under other circumstances, would seem derived from Ara Jani, rather than from Ara Diana3. — The Diana of ]!^emus was wor- shipped with Scythian or Tauric rites ; and the name Arriano has by some, been referred to a tribe of Scythians called Ariani, but Ara Dianse is the more pro- bable derivation. The old post-road passed over this mountain to Vel- letri. It was a deserted and dangerous country, and covered with forests. It is said that there was a village called San Gennaro near, but this is now destroyed. The old road is still passable on horseback. On the left is the mountain; on its summit several mounds and ditches, visible from all parts of the country, seem to mark the spot where the Spanish encamped, previous to the battle of Velletri, (a.d. 1734,) which determined the succession to the throne of i^^aples. It has been as- serted that there is on the summit of the mountain the ruin of a temple, consisting of great blocks, but this wants confirmation. The range, beginning with the hill above K'emi, (called perhaps Monte Secco), having Arriano in the centre, and, towards Palestrina, the hill of the castle of Algidus, formed the southern boundary of the great crater of Mont Albano, before the central cone of Monte Cave was produced. The Map shows this great circle at one view. 1 10 ART The old post-road ascended to Marino, and passed Palazziiolo and La Fajola on the summit; then, des- cending to Yelletri, it went by Cora, I^orma, Sermo- neta, and Sezzi, to Terracina. It is now rendered useless by the restoration of the Via Appia through the Pontijie IMarshes. During the last century, it was one of the most difficult and disagreeable districts in Italy for the traveller. Artena Yeientium. The town so called belonged either to Yeii or to Ciere, till it was taken by one of the kings of Eome. (Livy, lib. iv. 61.) It was situated between these two places, and on the confines. As the place was of little consequence, and was destroyed in early times, it not likely to have left many vestiges. The spot now called Boccea, or Buccea, near the river Arrone, about twelve miles from Eome, is, perhaps, its most probable site. There is here a high and insulated point which has all the appearance of a citadel, and which seems to have been occupied at a subsequent period (as most of the ancient sites were) by a patrician villa, which assisted in the destruction of its remains. Artena Yolscorum. A strong town of the Yolsci, now Monte Fortino, or rather upon a hill near Monte Fortino. It was taken by the Eomans, U.C. 351 ; beating back the Artenenses, who liad attempted a sortie from the city, the Romans entered with the fugitives, and thus obtained possession of the place. Both city and citadel were destroyed by the Eomans ; (Liv. lib. iv. 61 ;) and Cellarius says — ^•' Positio incertissima immo ignota hujus oppidi est." Monte Fortino has at present 2,472 inhabitants. The site of the city of Artena was first discovered and visited in the year 1830, by the present Lord Beverley. It is distant scarcely more than a mile from Monte Fortino, toward the south-west, and is now called La Civita, (a name which always indicates an ancient city,) and II piano della Nebbia. The site is a rocky ART 111 mount, difficult of access, and much overgrown Avitli bushes. On the north is a wood, on the west the ground falls in precipices, on the south is a cave, and on the east, the road from Monte Fortino enters the inclo- sure. The place was not large, but the walls are of massive and rough blocks of limestone, indicative of an early period. Stones five feet by three. WALLS OF ARTENA. The citadel was separated from the town by a strong fortification of equally rough materials; and its walls are of larger blocks. Indeed, as the citadel of every Stone seven feet wide. WALLS OF THE CITADEL OP ARTENA. 112 ART place must generally have been erected before the town, its ramparts afford the best example of the style of the time of the founder. These walls of Artena being built of large rough blocks, and having small stones inserted in the inter- stices, will be found to possess much more of the cha- racteristics of the Cyclopian style, than any other of those polygonal structures, so common in Italy, on which the title has been frequently bestowed. This style seems so natural and inartificial, that it is strange it was not more universal; possibly it was the most ancient way of building among the ^qui and Yolsci, for we hear of no repairs at Artena by the Eomans. The characteristics of the Cyclopian style*, given by Pausanias, are, that the blocks should be large and rough, and the intervals filled up with small stones. That of the polygonal masonry is, that each stone being cut to fit exactly with those around it, no small stones were or could be used. Tiryns is the example given by Pausanias of the Cyclopian style, and there the nearly rough blocks and the small stones are observable. It is true that the western side of Tiryns has a great pro- portion of polygonal v^alling, but this, Avhich was so common in Greece, could not be the part which Homer, [* It is incorrect to say that Pausanias gives these as "the character- istics of the Cyclopian style," or Tiryns itself as an example of that style. Neither Pausanias, nor any other ancient writer, ever uses the term Cyclopian for the purpose of designating any style of architecture or con- struction, as the term is employed by modern antiquarians. He indeed gives a minute description of the mode in which the walls of Tiryns were constructed, and tells us that they were built by the Cyclopes, who also erected those of jSIycena;, as well as the gates of that city: and we find the epithet Cyclopian repeatedly applied to the latter by Euripides: but neither the i^oet nor the historian would ever have called any other Avails Cyclopian merely on account of a resemblance of style. In this sense the term is one entirely of modern adoption, and, as the walls and gates of Mycente itself approach much more to the regular polygonal style than to that exhibited at Tiryns, it is a purely arbitrary assump- tion to limit the term Cyclopian to the latter. How far Ave are war- ranted in believing in all cases that greater rudeness of construction, as exhibited in these supposed Avails of Artena and a few other instances, is sufficient evidence of very remote antiquity, is a point Avhich may admit of considerable doubt. — E.B.] ART 113 and after him Pausanias, allude to as wonderful. Tiryns had stood nine hundi-ed years before it was destroyed, and the walls might have been repaired — the western side being- re-built in after times, and only the eastern, left as originally built by the Cyclopians. The stones of some countries, easily and naturally separate into polygons ; and at this day the vicinity of Arpino pre- sents, in consequence, many specimens of walls nearly approaching to Cyclopian, though newly built. xV detailed account of Arpino cannot be introduced in this work, as the Map does not extend so far ; but it may be mentioned that the Cyclopes assisted in making the gate at Mycena?, (^vide Pausanias in Argol.,) and there they cut and even squared their blocks ; and that Diomede, who of course had often seen that gate, founded the city of Arpi, in Apulia. Query: Did any of that, or any other Greek colony reach Arpinum, the name of which seems a derivative ? — for the gate of Arpinum, now called Acuminata, remains in such a state, that the size, the form, and even the number of stones, seem almost a copy of the gate of Mycenae. The blocks also on each side of the portal, advance, in the same manner, as if to embrace a triangular stone above the opening. The triangular stone, with the two jambs, and the architrave, unfortunately do not remain, but the upper part of the opening could have been closed in no other manner. These observations cannot here be pursued, but they serve to show that there must have been that connexion between Italy and Greece in early times, which history or tradition has recorded. It is not unworthy of obser- vation, that almost all the Italian cities with fine walls, are said to have been waUed by the Romans*; such as [* Sir W. Gell here evidently refers to the circumstance to which he has repeatedly adverted elsewhere, — that -we find those towns mentioned in the treatise, or rather collection of fragments, bearing the name of Frontinus de Coloniis, as " mui'o ductse:" an expression from which he appears to think that we are entitled to infer that in these cases the walls were coeval with the colonics. But in most instances the colonies referred to by Frontinus are the military ones of Sylla or Julius Caesar, and it is certainly impossible to assign the massive defences of Siania or I 114 AST Sig'iiia, Circa}!, Verula^, Alfidena, Alatrium, Ferentiniim, i^orha, and Priverniim, Avhicli present the best specimens of the mural architecture of Italy. — It might be sus- pected that the Ortona of Livy was this Artena ; for he says, (lib. iii. 30,) Horatius retook from the ^Equi, (who were repulsed at Algidus.) both Corbio and Or- tona; — Ortona, therefore, if it be not Artena, must have been in this vicinity. Arx Carventana. (Vkle Eocca Massima.) ASTURA. "Astura Flumen et Insula.'' — Pliny. Astura still preserves its ancient name. It is about seven miles from xVntium, and is reputed six from ISTet- tuno. It is more properly a peninsula than an island, — projecting' from a flat and woody coast. A high tower, with a modern fort, probably erected as a security against the Barbaresques, marks the spot. Astura was a marine villa of Cicero. (T7f/e Plutarch in Vita Ciceronis, c. 47=) That orator had so many villas, that in one of his epistles he vrrites, ^-'In Tus- culano hodie, Lanuvii eras, inde Asturie cogitabam." (Lib. xiv. epist. 2.) In describing his villa at Astura to Atticus, he says, ^-'Est heic locus amoenus, et in mari ijDSo, qui et Antio et Circ?eis adspici possit."' (Lib. xii. 19.) About midway from i^ettuno are several massive ruins of brick. At the mouth of the river was a station for ships. — The varieties of the name of the place are, Satura, Statura, and Stura. E'ot far from Astura, the road to Circa?i crosses the Fluvius Xympha?us, which rises below Xorba. Astura was twenty-four miles distant from Circaei, the road running" along the coast by Mill. Pass. Closti-is IX. Ad Turrcs Albas III. Circeios ....... XII. Norba to so late a period as the close of the Roman republic, however probable it is that the colonies sent out in the earlier ages of the city may haA'e been thus fortified. — E.B.] BAL 115 The distance from Ostia to Circa}!, is difterentlj stated by the ancient authorities. According to Pliny, Latium was only fifty miles in length from Ostia to Cir- casi; the Peutingerian Tables give seventy miles as the distance, and Strabo sixty-six, or sixty-nine miles. These differences arise from the imperfect system of numeral notation amongst the ancients. Astura is now almost without inhabitants; at the tower there is a guard of sickly soldiers. Virgil mentions the ••'atra palus Saturn," and Silius Italicus speaks of the place in similar terms. The ma- laria was therefore known to exist there in ancient times. At Astura are the remains of many Eoman buildings, and of a mole, raised evidently upon arches ; the brick ruins on the beach, going to jS^ettuno, may be those of the villa of Cicero. The road from Astura to I^ettuno, by the beach, lies through a pretty country, well wooded, and with park -like scenery. Baccano. (F/f/e Ad Baccanas.) Balbina, Santa. Santa Balbina is one of those little towns or castles which, like that at Sacco ]\Iuro, was under the dominion of the Tiburtines ; falling with their metropolis into the power of the Romans, they submitted without being individually engaged in the struggle, and are thus un- known to history. Santa Balbina is scarcely two miles distant from the ruins at Sacco Muro ; the site was selected as a strong- hold, and the area within its walls was capable of con- taining a small community. The ruins may be seen on the left of the road, from Tivoli to Yico Yaro, about four miles from the former, but it is only through one opening in the knolls that they are visible. They are scarcely three hundred yards from the road, and may be recognized by the ruins of a building of the Roman oj^us retioilaium, mixed with polygons of Sabine construction, — which, however, differ essentially from those of Sacco Muro. I 2 116 BAR This place is another of the frequent instances of an ancient city serving as the site of a Eoman villa. [See p. 134.] Subjoined is a specimen of the style of the walls as now existing. WALLS OF SANTA BALBINA. There is another portion where the stones are placed so as to form a sort of rude arch round one or more blocks, an idea of which may be obtained by observing the stone marked B, round which three hexagons and a heptagon are arranged, as if upon a centre. The western side of the town has a similar arrangement upon a mass of more than twenty stones ; and, indeed, in the present instance, if B and six of the lower blocks were taken away, an arch would be left. Barca Casale. (Vide Falerii.) Barcho. A place near the descent of the Aquae Ferentinae, below Marino. (Vide Almo.) Barco. A species of tumulus near the quarries, not far from the Ponte Lucano. (Vide Aquic Albula^.) BEB 117 Bardella. The ancient Mandela, whence the modern name is corrupted. It has one hundred and twenty-two inhabi- tants ; but, including that of Cantalupo, the whole popu- lation of the hill amounts to six hundred and ninety- one. Bardella is on the western point of the hill, and overlooks the beautiful site of the convent of San Cosi- mato, and the valleys of the Anio and the Digentia. It is about two miles from Vico Yaro, and the little river of Licenza is crossed in the way. The situation is too advantageous, both for defence and enjoyment, to have been neglected by the ancients. Bassano. A small toAvn near Eonciglione and Sutri. The name is probably derived from that of a Roman pro- prietor, (perhaps Bassus,) — as many of the names ending in ano seem to have been. Bebiana. A place situated beyond Laurium, on the Via Au- relia, on the modern road to Civita Yecchia. The Peutingerian Table gives the road thus : — Roma, Via Aurelid. Lorio ........ XII. Bebiana .... (^supposed) V. Alsium ....... VI. On our first examination of the road, at the distance of a little more than three miles from Lorio, or Laurium, just after ascending the hill from the pretty and wooded banks of the Arrone, where the Yia Aurelia still retains its pavement entire with its curb-stones, (or did so in the year 1825,) some ruins were observed on an emi- nence to the left : they had, however, only the appear- ance of a villa, or of a great tomb, and such, in fact, they must have been. The place best corresponding with the distance of six miles from Alsium is Torrimpetra, (about five miles lis BLE from Laiiriiim, bj the Aurelian Way,") where, on the road, many traces of fomidations may be observed near the farm-house, and beyond some sepulchres border the road. There is a tower upon an insulated eminence on the right of the road at this point, and near it a pretty wood, with banks sloping toAvard the valley of the Arrone. After this, the road descends into the ugly Hat regions of the coast. Belmonte. (T7c7e Ad Yicesdium.) BlERA, nOlV BlEDA. A town of the ancient Etruria, just beyond the con- fines of our Map, near Eonciglione and Sutri. The population is still considerable; and there are several remains of antiquity, consisting chiefly of tombs cut in tlie rock and walls. At San Griovanni di Bieda, on the road between Vetralla and Yiterbo, are several sepulchres in the rock, with mouldings of genuine Etruscan architecture. A stream running from Blera has here worn in the soft volcanic stone, a deep valley with rocky sides. The Etruscans delighted in tombs excavated in such situations ; and those in this valley are both extraordi- nary and numerous. The stream unites with another from near Yiterbo, which, like the former, presents on its banks, at Castel d'Asso, a series of tombs, and also inscriptions ; which can only be compared with those in the valley of the tombs of the Kings, (Biban el Moluk,) near Thebes. Another joins this, from JSTorcia, a curious and interesting Etruscan city; and in this valley is a Doric tomb, Avith painting and sculi)ture : the Grotta del Cardinale is another of these curious tombs. They are painted like those of the Tumuli of Tarquinium, and are as yet unknown to the antiquaries and literati of Europe*. [* These tombs have since been fully examined and described in the Annali dell' Istituto: an abridged account of them all Avill be found in Abcken's Mittd Italien, p. 255 — 259 Sir W. GcU's expression of a Doric tomb seems to point to the same conclusion as that arrived at BOL 119 BoLA, now Poll Commentators are of opinion that the BoXai, said by Dionysius (lil3. viii. 20,) to have been taken by Corio- lanus after the capture of Pedum and Corioli, Avas not the town of Bola, but of Bo villas : and that the expres- sion '• €771 Bo\as,'' is an error for '' irrc BoiXXay." " Bolte," says this Avriter, '• was then an illustrious city, and one of the few remaining Latin towns of the first order. The combat Avas furious, because the inhabitants not only fought from the Avails, but, opening- the gates, rushed doAvn the steep upon their enemies." The opinion that Bovilla? is here intended, seems probable; for Coriolanus had already subdued, in coming from Circa?i, the Tolerini and Bolani ; and then took the toAvns of Labieum, Pedum, Corbio, Corioli, and BoXau (or BolWai.^ (^Vide cap. 17, IS, 19, 20.) Plutarch, in his enumeration of those subdued by Coriolanus on this occasion, gives the Tolerini, the Yicani, (or, according to some editors, Libicani,) the Pedani, and then the Bolani, avIio, "defending their AAalls, Avere taken by force and punished." Plutarch's account appears, at first sight, to militate against the conjecture of the commentators of Diony- sius, as representing Coriolanus to have gone directly from Labieum, through Pedum, to Bola, and thus to have increased his distance from Eome ; but as in a subsequent passage, Plutarch says that " BoUa?, only one hundred stadia from Eome," — the distance rather of Bovilla? than of Bola, — Avas afterwards taken by the same individual, he must have referred to BoviU^e, and so far the passages in the Iavo authors are reconciled ; but as the declivities, doAAii Avhich the inhabitants are said by Dionysius to have rushed, are inapplicable to the flat Bovilla?, this part of the history must have referred to Bola, Avhich is on an eminence. Bola, or Poli, is noAV a toAvn of 1,185 inhabitants, l)y M. Abeken, that these sepulchres do not belong to the earliest ages of Etruscan civilization, but to those when the Greek influence had begun to make itself sensibly felt. — E.B.] 120 BOL and is situated upon a rock, in a valley which pierces deeply into the mountain of Guadagnolo*. The site, like that of San Gregorio, under the same mountain, is Avell adapted for purposes of defence ; being a long and narrow rocky promontory, running from the foot of the hills into the valley, and only united to them by an isthmus ; on which now stands the large and castellated mansion of the Duke of Poli. There is only, one en- trance, and that up an ascent, the rest of the circuit of the toAvn being a steep precipice, about tifty feet high, on the verge of which the backs of the houses form a species of continued castle-like curtain, much resem- bling some of the towns in the Greek islands, and par- ticularly in those of Seriphus and Siphnos. Poli is a most secluded place, but is accessible in a carriage. A few remains of antiquity exist, of Roman times. There is a rugged path from Poli to Guadagnolo, and another over the mountains, to Palestrina. There is also a bridle-road toward Tivoli, through Casape and San Gre- gorio. The number of deep ravines between Poli and Gabii have rendered it difficult to construct a road in the direction of Eome; in consequence of which the carriage-road runs along a flat between the ra^dnes of Ponte Lupo on one side, and Ponte di S. Antonio on the other ; but below CorcoUo, many of the torrents of the plain are united and form one stream ; after which the road becomes more tolerable : near Castiglione, it falls into the Yia Gabina. The junction of this road from Poli with that of San Yittorino, near CorcoUo, is at the Arco di Olevano ; and, till a few years ago, could not be effected without a dangerous descent, which has lately been improved. At the distance of about a mile on the road from the valley of Poli to the plain, the Villa Catena, formerly the residence of Innocent XIII., one of the Popes of the Conti family, is seen on the right. Strangers are * The feudal honours of Poli and Guadagnolo are united in the Torlonia family, Dukes of Poli and Guadagnolo. They have been obtained from the ancient proprietors, the Conti, or their descendants, the Cesarini, by pm'chase and by marriage. BOR 121 alloAved to pass tlirough its extensive pleasure-grounds and plantations. The Conti family have so many other villas in different parts of the country, that the Catena is now nearly deserted. On the grounds of the villa, three distinct mansions were erected by Innocent, one of which he dedicated exclusively to himself and his court; one to the quarter- ing- of a troop of horse ; and the third to the infantry, Avho did the duty of the palace. Till lately, the fur- niture remained in the state in which he had left it at his death, which took place in 1724. BORGHETTO. A curious castle, built of the black volcanic stone which once paved the Yia Latina, near which it stands, on the left. Borghetto is on the site of Ad Decimum, the first ancient Mutatio on the Latin road. This was one of the fortresses of the feudal times, built by the great families of Eome, (Frangipani, Sa- velli, Colonna, Cajetani, Orsini, &c.) in different parts of the country, to resist either the popes, or each other. This of Borghetto, was probably the cause of the deser- tion of the Latin Way. The form of the castle is an oblong parallelogram, with four towers, united by a curtain on each side. There was formerly, according to Donius, (a Floren- tine, Avho wrote a treatise on the malaria of the Eoman states,) a village called Borghetto. This, he says, was depopulated by the effects of an unwholesome spring, forming a ditch of black and fetid water, called Sol- forata, and emitting a sulphureous and unwholesome vapour. The spring was to the west of the village ; but he says that its effects do not extend to Grotta Ferrata, on the mountain to the east of the village. The Mutatio was so situated, that the horses from Eome drew travellers up only one-half of the long and tedious hill ; the latter half falling to the share of those of Ad Decimum. Borghetto. A little place on the Tyber, not far from the Ponte Felice, with only forty-two inhabitants. It is now esta- 122 BOV blisliecl as the post between Civita Castellana and Otri- coli. There are two or three large houses here in a state of decay. BORGHETTACCIO. This is a single house, situated on the right of the Via Flaminia, thirteen miles from the Capitol^, or twelve from the Porta del Popolo. It seems to have been also called Malborghetto. A post-house having formerly existed on the Yia riaminia, at about only four miles distant, Borghettaccio can scarcely have been intended for a modern inn. Its appearance is so like that of the buildings of the lower empire, that the traveller imagines he has arrived at the remains of a Mutatio or Mansio of that period. The Avails of the habitation seem strongly built, in a good Roman style; and round a frieze Avhich crowns them, the word Constantinus is very visible. Whether the ruins of an ancient tomb have been converted into a house, cannot be decided ; but the inscription, constan- TINVS PETRAS ANTA S PIV MAX RESTAVRAV (this is all that can be easily deciphered,) does not tlestroy the probability that Mal1)orghetto Avas an an- cient Mutatio It is noAv a AATetched Osteria. — On the same side of the road is a curious circular tomb, Avitli buttresses; and, on the other, Pietra Pertusa. BovACCiNo; Torre di Boyaccino. A toAver, built on the ruins of the ancient Ostia, to defend the principal mouth of the Tyber from the Bar- baresques and others. The depositions of the river having encroached upon the sea, the toAver of San Michele Avas afterwards erected; but even this is noAv so far inland, that an enemy might easily disembark on the long points of sand, Avhich are perpetually lengthening from the Isola Sacra. BoVILLvE*; BOBELLAS. BoiXXai' BoWar l3o\ai. This city is said to have been founded by Latinus * Buvilhe, a Bourn multitudiue; quasi Bourn Villa. BOV 123 vSilviiis, of Alba; as were also Pi\Tncste, Tibui% and Gabii. (De Orig. Gent.) It was a ricli and important place, as is proved by the history of its conquest by Coriolanus. The situation not being defensible by nature, more care seems to have been bestowed in the construc- tion of the Avails. The neighbouring and singular pile, called Palaverde, was raised out of their ruins ; which consist of large quadrangular blocks of volcanic stone. The Tabula Peutingeriana gives ten miles as the distance from Eome to Bovilla^ ; but the ruins, now so called, cannot be less than twelve from the ancient Porta Capena, or eleven from that of St. Sebastian. But Plutarch (in Yit. Coriol.) allows one hundred stadia, or twelve miles, as the distance from Rome — if, in the passage referred to, he means, as we suppose, BovillcT, and not Bola ; which was certainly at a much greater distance from Rome. For further information on this point, the reader is referred to JBoJa. Among the ruins of Bovilla?, an altar was discovered in some recent excavations, so curious, that, as it is said to have since perished, it is worth mentioning here. The Julian family, who came from this place, and wished to be thought descended from the ancient patri- cians of Alba, might have been capable of fabricating such a document; but this we cannot suppose them to have done, as it carries Avith it the appearance of high antiquity, both in the inscription and the rough peperino of which it is formed; and it seems on every account genuine, and of great interest. VEDIOVEI .t>ATRl GENT EILFS . IVLl 124 BOV On the other side was written, — leege. albana. DICATA. This altar seems to have been one of the most ancient Etrurian forms. There is one of the same shape painted in a tomb at Tarquinii; and the learned Professor I^ibby mentions another, supposed to have been dedicated to Aius Locutius, — the Daemon, who, in mysterious sounds, advised the Romans to repair their walls, for the Gauls were coming : it is inscribed — SEI DEO SER^E DEIVAI* EX. S. C. Tacitus expressly says, (Ann. ii. 41,) "Sacrarium Genti Juliae, effigiesque Divo Augusto, apud Bovillas dicantur." A part of the Circus Ludorum, and the theatre, are also among the ruins recently excavated at Boyillae. These remains seem to have been well knoiMi some years before; at least, in the Via Appia of Pratilli, published at K^aples in 1745, the monuments of the Gente Giulia are mentioned. Bovill^e was certainly the place where they existed; for N^ero ordered that the "Ludicrum Circense, ut Julian Genti apud Bovillas, ita Claudiae, Domitiseque apud Antium ederetur." (Ann. xv. 23.) Yet Pratilli says, that the monuments were not in the town. Had there been no ruins, Bovillae might, indeed, have seemed better situated on the knoll or lowest ele- vation of the hill on the right of the modern post-road, opposite the Villa Barberini, and on which the pillar of [* Professor Nibby appears to have overlooked the circumstance that this pecuHar formula is mentioned and explained by Aulus Gellius, from whom we learn that it had no relation to Aius Locutius, but was addressed to the unknown deity that was suj^posed to cause earthquakes. He tells us (lib. ii. c. 28) that the ancient Romans, from their ignorance of the cause of these phaenomena, and their strict observance of religious rites, used, whenever an earthquake took place, to proclaim a festival without mentioning the name of the deity in whose honour it was to be celebrated: and if any accidental pollution of the sanctity of this festival took place, they sacrificed a victim in expiation, with the formula Si Deo, si De.e. — E.B.] BRA 125 BoscoAvich is placed. The lower, or northern end of the city, would then have been nearer to the ten miles from Rome. Moreover, an ancient road ran hence to the Via Latina; another ran up the hill toAvard Alba Longa; another branched off toward Antium and Ardea; and the Appian would have passed through the toAvn. There may be one or tAvo tombs Avithin the circuit; but this forms no objection, as Bovillae might have been de- stroyed before they AA^ere erected. On the other hand, the site of the Julian monuments is nearer the bed of the Rivus Alljanus, from Avhicli stream the inhabitants of Bovill^ Avere probably supplied Avith Avater; and the distance from one to the other is not by any means great. The celebrated passage of Florus Avith regard to Bovillge cannot be omitted. "Sora, (quis credat!) et Algidum terrori fuerunt, Satricum atque Corniculum provinciag. De Yerulis et Bovillis pudet, — sed triumpha- vimus*." Bracciano. Bracciano is a toAvn Avith 1,476 inhabitants, and is tAventy-five miles from Kome. It Avas formerly a duchy of the Odescalchi, but noAv belongs to the Torlonia family. As far as Mile X. the road is the ancient Cas- sian; thence, the Via Claudia seems to have branched off to the left, and many traces of the ancient pavement remain. This road passes through a dreary country, by the Osteria ^uova and the Osteria del Fosso, near Galera (r/f/e Graleria); and thence through a still more bare and desolate district, by a single house, called Crocic- chia, distant about nineteen miles from Rome. The bare hills seen from Crocicchia, on the right, are the back of the crater of the lake of Bracciano; and some streams passed in the Avay are, in their course doAA u- [* Cicero, in a passage already referred to (pro Plancio, c. 9,) alludes to Bovillee as among the towns of Latium which in his day were so much decayed that they could hardly find deputies to send to the solemnities on the Alban Mount. — E.B.] 12G BFtA wards, joined l)y waters, which, perhaps, are derived from the lake by subterraneous channels. On the left, at about half-way between Crocicchia and Bracciano, is a lake, novv^ rapidly decreasing, called Lag'o Morto. Here the country becomes less desolate, being in a state of cultivation; and here, on the right, the fine expanse of the Lago di Bracciano is first seen, together with Trivignano, anciently Trebonianum, standing upon a rock on the opposite shore, at the distance of five miles from the opposite coast*. The peaked summit, called Monte Eocca Romana, covered with wood, is also beheld across the water, and the whole scenery, without having any thing of magnificence, except the lake, is of the most pleasing and sylvan kind. The village of Anguillara (vide Anguillara) stands on a rock to the right, and the splendid feudal castle of Bracciano is in front, seated on an insulated rock, with its dark walls and numerous turrets. For the last mile there are two roads, either of which may be followed. That on the left leads to the convent of the Cappuccini, whence a long street or avenue extends to the toAvn and castle; the road to the right runs directly to the town, which is well-built, and has a flourishing paper manufactory, and an appearance of prosperity. The castle is a noble edifice, and presents to the west a front of four lofty towers; it stands upon an inclined basement, and is united by a curtain pierced with thirty or forty ancient windows, at a great height from the ground, and divided by heavy stone muUions, Avhich admit light into the apartments above. Of these, the grand suite is on the ground-floor, when entered from the inner court, the ascent to which is too steep for carriages. The battlements, and machicolations, and outworks, and other accompaniments, give to the edifice that peculiar air of mysterious dignity Avhicli belongs to the feudal castle; and the black volcanic * The longest lino ucross the water, is from La Pollina to below Bracciano, and is more tlian six miles. The circumfei-enco of the lake, -without following the sinuosities of the shore, is twenty miles. BRA 127 stone of whicli it is l)uilt, (probably at the expense of the entire destruction of the pavement of the Via Claudia,) gives to it a still more imposing- appearance. The grand front and entrance of the castle is to the east, toward the lake, Avhere a broad paved ascent con- ducts to a gate, under a projecting tower. The court is large and irregular, following the shape of the rock. The ornaments of the entrance door of the great hall seem to have been taken from some ancient edifice of Sabate. The hall is two stories high, and of the capa- cious size suited to the place ; opening from it on each side, (not to mention the number of smaller rooms and inferior apartments,) is a magnificent suite of six cham- bers, lying compactly together, and well adapted even to the refinements of modern life ; though still retaining silk hangings, and tapestry, and furniture, Avhich testify more of the splendour than of the comfort of feudal times. The windows also still preserve the dim glass, which characterises the buildings of the middle ages; and it is remarkable how the Avhole place, with its heavy mullions, its large arched fire-places, and its ancient window-seats, — totally differing from every thing in modern Italy, — recalls to one's mind the old houses of the north of England. The view over the lake from the castle is delightful. The ancient dukes of Bracciano had the privilege of appointing magistrates, and of being in their OAvn per- sons judges ; and the hall, or rather the den of justice, at the top of the castle, is worth visiting. The old duke of the present family did not, like others of the Roman nobility, dispose of his feudal rights to the government after the French revolution ; so that the Castle of Bracciano has more of the reality, as Avell as the sem- blance, of its former consequence, than any other place in the country. Gf the Etruscan antiquities of Bracciano, little is known. The town was called Sabate, the lake, Lacus Sabatinus, and the river flowing from it, Aro. Cluver cites from Pompeius Festus, "Sabatina tribus, dicta a lacu Sabate." He quotes also from the Digest of Civil Law, "Rutilia Polla emit lacum Sabatenem Angularium, 128 BRA et circa eum lacum, pedes X." The passage is curious, because it refers to Anguillara, and to the person from whom the place called La Pollina, was probably named. Strabo (lib. v.) seems to say that the lake produced papyrus ; but either writing on a subject with which he was very little acquainted, or his text being corrupted, he makes in the same passage three or four blunders, (as he often does,) of which not the least, is that the Aro flows into the Tyber instead of into the sea. Silius calls the lake Sabatia Stagna. It was pretended that Sabate had been overwhelmed by the waters of the lake ; — that in calm weather, the ruins of the town were visible at the bottom, together with statues and temples. (Sotion, ap. Cluverium, lib. ii. c. 3, p. 523.) There was an ancient road from Sabate to Caere, which fell into another from Careja3 at Mt. Abbatone. In the way, it was crossed by a third, probably from Careja3 to [fTorcia: — all of which have contributed by their pavements to the building of the castle. From Bracciano, there is a road to Oriolo, the villa of the Altieri family, through a beautiful and hilly country. On its right is a pretty hill, anciently, as Professor Nibby has ascertained, called Pausilypon, probably the site of a Roman villa. On the northern side of the lake is Yicarello, or the Vicus Aurelii; and on the southern, near San Stefano, are the remains of other Roman villas, Near Yicarello is a vast forest, running nearly up to Oriolo, and containing the highest sources of the aqueduct which supplies the great fountain of the Acqua Paola, on the Janiculum. This aqueduct, says Anastasius Bibliothecarius, was made by Pope Honorius ; but he probably means only that branch of it which runs from the Lacus Sabatinus : for the water of the Alsietinus was brought to Rome by Trajan. The hill of Rocca Romana, on the east side of the lake, is a singular and well-wooded pyramidal mountain. (Vide Rocca Romana.) The air of Bracciano, without being pronounced absolutely dangerous, is, in the summer, what the natives call "suspected." , BUO 129 BUON RiCOVERO. A large farm-house on the right of the modern Via Cassia, about seven miles from Rome, and not for ft-om Giustiniani. The waters of the country, on the right, fall into the Acqua Marrana, near the Via Yeientana, and thence, near Torre di Quinto, into the Acqua Traversa, and those on the left into the valley of the Acqua Traversa. In this valley, near Buon Ricovero, is the remnant of a forest of cork trees, and some few grow n.ear the road. Buon Riposo. {Vide Corioli.) Cecilia Metella. (Vide Via Appia.) CiENINA. KaiVLVT). Now CeANO. The account of the rape of the Sabine women con- tains almost the only historical notice of this city. The Ca'iiinenses, Crustumini, and Antemnates, with a multi- tude of Sabines, are particularly named by Livy as flocking to Rome to witness the celebration of the Con- sualia. After the seizing of the Avomen, the three cities applied to Titus Tatius, the King of the Sabines, requesting him to act as their leader against the per- fidious Romans. Thinking him slow, the Ca^ninenses made an unsupported irruption into the Roman terri- C/ENINA 130 C^N tory; but Romulus, encountering their forces, routed them, slew their king, Acron, and, following the fugitives, took the city, and returned to Eome to dedicate the spolia opima. (Livy, lib. i. i), 10.) The Antemnates and the Crustumini having adopted a similar course, incurred the same fate. The city of the Cajninenses was converted into a Roman colony. (Dionys. Halicar. ii. 36.) Ca^nina does not appear in the list of cities taken by Tarquin, when he subdued " nomen omne Latinum aut qui ad Latinos defecerant," (Livy, lib. i. 38) ; [nor is it one of the twenty-four Latin cities that united in the con- federacy against Rome after the expulsion of the Tar- quins (Dionys. v. Gl) ; but its absence in these lists is not to be wondered at, as it seems clear from the occur- rence of its name in the legend of the rape that it was a Sabine city, as were Crustumerium and ]*^omentum.] As Romulus had previously visited Cienina, (for he was sacrificing there when Remus was taken prisoner by the emissaries of the king of Alba,) he had probably already obtained such a knowledge of the place as was useful in the attack of the city. Dionysius says that "both Ca^nina and Antemnae were of Greek origin, for the Aborigines had, in early times, taken these two places from the Siculi, and these Aborigines Avere a part of the Q^notrians, Avho came from iVrcadia." {Kaivivq fiev S?) KaX^Avrefiva, jivos e^ovaat, TO 'EWtjvlkov lA^opcyiveif / was built by the Romans. The style of con- struction of the walls still remaining in such singular perfection at Falleri (I'idti Falerii) Avould certainly lead one to ascribe them rather to this later city than to the more ancient one, and we thus arrive at the con- clusion, adopted by almost all writers upon the subject, except Sir W. Gell, that Falleri was the site of the second, or Roman city of Falerii, and could not therefore be that of the ancient Etruscan city, which we are expresslj' told was in a different situation. That the latter may have been at Civita Castellana thus becomes probable enough ; at least the strong position of that place almost surrounded by impassable ravines would accord perfectly Avith the j^^ssages cited from Plutarch and Zonaras, and the small amount of ancient reuuiins is not surprising, if we consider that Falerii was destroyed in the year of Rome 513. So 168 CIV that " ^quiim Faliscum was said by some to be on the Via Flaminia, between Ocriculi and Rome." Now, the vicinity of the Flaminian AYay shows that Civita Cas- tellana (Fescenium) is the place he speaks of; for the description cannot apply to Fallen. (Fallerii or ^qumn Faliscum.) Plutarch (in Camill. ix.) calls Falerii "a city, strong by nature;" which, at least, in half its cir- cuit, the city at Falleri was not. Zonaras says, "the ancient city, seated on a defensible mountain, was destroyed, and another was built* in the plain, which might be easily attacked." Now, no mountain could have existed any where near Falleri. Plutarch informs us, that "when Camillus attacked Falerii, the inhabi- tants looked with contempt on the besiegers, amusing themselves in the city as usual, and only placing guards on the walls." Falerii, (Falleri,) though Avell walled, was in a position so easily attacked from the north, that this was impossible. Virgil mentions only the troops of the Fescennini and the JEqui Falisci, {JEn. vii. 695,) which makes it appear not improbable that Falerii had not been built when JEneas landed. The Martyrology says, that the saints Gracilian and Felicissima Avere canonized on the first of the ides of August, at Falari, — which must have been at Civita Castellana, (Fescen- nium,) as, according to Baronius, is shown by their tombs in the church of that place. From all these passages it seems certain that the little is known of Fescennium, that we are almost entirely at a loss where to place it; but a local antiquary, named Antonio Massa, is cited by Cluverius as mentioning the existence of ancient vestiges at a place called Gallese, about five miles north of Falleri, which that geographer is disposed to regard as those of Fescennium. The same view has been adopted by Abeken. It may be added that no trace is found of the existence of the mo- dern city of Civita Castellana previous to the twelfth century: whence it may be reasonably conjectured that it was peopled by the inhabitants of Falleri, who retired there for greater security. Fallei'i, on the con- trary, was a flourishing place in the early part of the middle ages, which may account for the canonization of the two saints there, and it is probable that their bodies were afterwards transported to Civita Castellana: a frequent practice in the middle ages. — E.B.] * Does he mean that Fescennium was destroyed, and Falerii built ? CIV 169 Falerii and Falisci were one people*, and that the towns of Falerii and Fescennimn were intimately connected, — if it be not even clear, that one of them having been destroyed, the ruined town was transferred to the site of the other. The Falisci evidently extended over all the country to the confines of the Capenates. They seem to have been called ^qui, as descended from a branch of that people — who, united with the Casci and Pelasgi, seem to have had great influence in early times. Dionysius particularly mentions that though Falerium and Fes- cennium were in his time inhabited by Romans, they still preserved Greek institutions and arms, and that their temples and sacrifices were Greek. He also says that in Falerium was a temple of the Argive Juno. At Civita Castellana are inscriptions, calling it a municipium. Frontinus says, the colony* was called Junonia Falisca : and it is not improbable that a temple of the Argive Juno was on the inaccessible hill, at Civita Castellana. It would be exceedingly interesting to find some temple at Falerii or Fescennium, if only to ascertain in what consisted the peculiarity of these Ai'give tem- ples. At Falleri, a statue of Juno, of Eoman work- manship, has been found: upon excavation other objects of art might be discovered which would repay the expense. An examination of the ground would pro- bably throw much light on some of the great desiderata of history. It is curious that the names of many of the Etrus- can cities were taken from vulgar things. Falisca sig- nified a manger for oxen; Faliscus a hog's pudding. Yeja, says Festus, was in the Etruscan a waggon. Pha- * "Evioi S'oij Tvpprjvovs (fiaa-i tovs ^oKepiovs, dWa ^aXiaKovs, 'iSiov Wvos rf Koi TOVS 4^a\L(TK0vs iroKiv ISioyXaxraov. — Strabo, lib. V. p. 22G. [t But there can be little or no doubt that the Colonia Junonia Falisca was sent neither to Fescennium, nor to Civita Castellana, but to Falleri, ■where probably many of the remains and vestiges of antiquity belong to this subsequent colony: among others the statue of Juno mentioned by Sir W, Gell in the next page. (Vide Falerii.) — E.B.] 170 c]^ lera was, liowcver, Greek; and was a name often applied to higli situations. It appears that tlie Falisci did not speak a pure Etruscan dialect, thus showing a mixed descent. In very ancient times the country seems rather to have formed a part of Umbria, than of Etruria; though at a later period all the country to the west of the Tyber was called Etruria. CiviTA Lavinia.. {Vide Lanuvium.) CiviTA Yecchia. The ancient Centum Celhr. This, Avith Corneto, would have completed the list of places Avithin the Agro Romano; but they do not fall within the limits of our Map. Civita Yecchia has 7,1 H inhabitants. CiVITELLA. Civitella is a village in the mountains, between Pa- lestrina and Subiaco. It is, like all those in the neigh- bourhood, difficult of access, and Avhat is termed out of the world. It is between Olevano and the Eocca di S. Stefano. There are 427 inhabitants. It is highly probable, not only from the name, which is often found to signify an ancient town, but from the remains of a terrace wall nearly one hundred feet in length, that Civitella was one of the ancient towns dei)endent upon Pra^neste, which Avere eight in number. This Avail of irregular masonry, Avhich might he styled polygonal, may hoAvever have been the substruction of a temple, rather than tlie rampart of the town*. Civitella. This Civitella is in the vicinity of Licenza, on a high peaked summit, exceedingly difficult of approach. It has not many inhabitants. [* The appearance of the terrace here referred to can leave, I think, no reasonable doubt that such was its destination: but, according to M. Abekcn {Bull. dcW 1st., 18-41, p. 51), there arc other portions of polygonal masonry lower down the hill, which must have formed part of the walls of a town. — E.B.] CIV 171 Tlie name Civita, and its derivations, seem very frequently to indicate the remains of ancient towns and cities. As Licenza seems to occupy tlie site, and nearly to retain the name of the ancient Digentia, and the classic authors have left us xery little detail with regard to the towns of this neighbourhood, it is not now pos- sible to discover the name of that which may have ex- isted at Civitella. A place so perched on a lofty summit, surrounded by still higher peaks, exhibiting an amazing variety of mountains, woods, and precipices, could not fail to be picturesque ; and the recollection that Horace must have admired the view every time he approached the windows of his Sabine retreat, gives additional interest to what, independently of this, is one of the most beautiful scenes in Italy. Civitella di San Paolo. A village near Fiano, with 582 inhabitants. It is one of those seen from the summit of Mount Soracte. CiviTONE. ( Fide Via Appia.) CoLLATIA; CoNLATIA. KoXana. Collatia is generally supposed to be at a place now called Castel dell' Osa, or Castelluccio ; with what pro- priety remains to be examined. Some have supposed that it was originally founded by the Albans, and Festus says it was so called, '' quod ibi opes aliarum civitatum fuerint conlata^." Pliny (iii. 9) enumerates it among the '' clara oppida " of Latium ; but Livy (lib. i. 38) says, that by the victory gained by Tarquinius Priscus over the Sabines, '"' Collatia et quic- quid circa Collatiam agri erat, Sahinis ademptum." Servius says (iEn. vi. 77-1) that it was built or restored by Tarquinius Supcrbus. In the time of Strabo the city Avas reduced to a small village, and Cicero speaks of it with contempt, — as he also does of Labicum and Fidena? ; so that it seems as if Eome had already swallowed up the whole 172 COL population of the Campagna, leaving it in a state of desolation, approximating that in which vre now find it. CoUatia must, hoAvever, at one period, have been of some consequence, for there was both a Yia Collatina and a Porta Collatina. In the wall of Aurelian, the Porta Collatina* was probably one of those smaller gates, (now closed up.) between the Porta Maggiore and the Praetorian camp ; that part of the Via Collatina which lay nearest the city has long been destroyed. At present, in order to reach Castel dell' Osa, the supposed site of CoUatia, the Via Prsenestina (from the Porta Maggiore) must be pursued. At two miles from Rome, this road crosses the Acqua BoUicante — which probaljly, in very early times, was the limit of the E-oman territory, where the Aj'vales sung their annual hymn. (Vide Festi.) At three miles and a-half, it passes the Villa of the Gordians ; (now called Tor' di Schiavi ;) the ruins of which consist of a circular brick building, [surrounded by several other brick ruins, form- ing a very picturesque and conspicuous group,] and fragments of marble strewed over the cultivated ground. A little beyond this, the road turns to the left, in the direction of Lunghezza. At a place called Bocca Leone an aqueduct is passed, and at two miles from the turn beyond Tor' di Schia^d, is the Tor Sapienza. [Between these two, the Torre di Tre Teste may be observed to the right, on the Via Gabina ; and near it, on the left, is a farm called La Rustica, where Professor j^ibby found vestiges of an ancient villa.] After the sixth milestone, on the main road, another (now neglected) [* The existence of a Porta Collatina at all rests only on the testimony of Paulus Diaconus, the epitoraizer of Festus, and is liable to much doubt: but at all events it was only one of the many obscure gates in the walls of Servius: and there certainly was no gate of that name in the circuit of those of Aurelian. The Via Collatina in imperial times, whatever it may have been in the earliest ages, seems to have been merely a branch-way, turning off from the Via Tiburtina, probably almost immediately after it issued from the gate. This would readily unite with the line which branched off from the Via Gabina, just beyond the Tor' di Schiavi, but the latter branch itself seems to be modern. (See Westphal, die Edmische Kanipagne, p. 99.) — E.B.] COL 173 may be observed to the right. By following this for rather more than three miles, a descent is fomid to the little valley and river of Osa; and on the opposite bank of the streams are the ruins of the Castel dell' Osa. {Vkle Ouascium, under the article Gabii.) The site is pretty when seen from the river below, and the bank is sufficiently steep for defence. The stream is also such as would naturally have been selected by the ancients, and has enough water for the supply of the city. It was not included within the walls, this being a precaution seldom taken by ancient communities, (vide Alba Longa, p. 19,) so that the ap- pearance of an enemy before the walls necessarily cut off the inhabitants from a supply of water. Under the arches of the Castel dell' Osa may be perceived, on close examination, the remains of an ancient wall. As far as it can be observed, it is in regular blocks, and ran along the brow of the hill which overlooks the valley and river ; on the other side there seems to have been no natural defence whatever, and it is difficult to conceive how a place so ill situated could have existed in perilous times ; so that perhaps the story of its foundation, or restoration by Tarquin, after Gabii had fallen under the power of Eome, is not improbable. As, however, there is little to testify the positive existence of an ancient city in this spot, except the vestiges of a regular wall, (which may have been that of a Eoman villa of imperial times,) the neighbouring country might perhaps be successfully examined in search of another site for Collatia. l^ow this ruin of the Castel dell' Osa, it may be ob- served, is only two miles from the site of the city of Gabii, which was at the time of the existence of Colla- tia a large and populous city: and though this is not conclusive against the position of another establishment so near, it may incline the antiquary to expect the site of Collatia to have been at a greater distance : in the second place, the spot inclosed was incapable of being defended, except upon the side which overlooked the river — at least present appearances lead us to conclude 174 COL this to have been the Ccise; cand, tliircUy, the Via Colla- tina, if such it be, seems to have been most singularly needless, as a communication between Rome and Castel dell' Osa ; for a slight turning from the Via Gabina would have led to it, by a route less circuitous, as may be seen from the Map. AV^hat is called the A^ia Colla- tina is perhaps nothing more than a remnant of the road, which must have anciently existed between Fidenae and Gabii. In addition to these remarks, it may be observed, that from the point where the road to Castel dell' Osa quits the direct line of the carriage road, an ancient Yia (the pavement of which is very visible) runs by Salone to Lunghezza ; and as the motive for which this Avas constructed was evidently the connecting of Rome with the site of Lunghezza, it is probable that Lunghezza was a place of some importance. Such also must Col- latia have been : for, according to Festus, in the pas- sage already quoted, the products of the neighbouring places were stored there. Moreover, from Lunghezza, its site being on the Anio, grain and other commodities could with ease be transported to Rome. On this ancient road are two Tumuli of considerable dimensions, near Salone ; and after passing the brook, which in the Yia Gabina runs under the Pons ad Nonum, a hill has been cut through for carriages. Another Tumulus is seen on the right, near Lunghezza. Lunghezza is little more than two miles below the Castel dell' Osa, and on the same river, at its junction with the Anio. It consists at present only of a large and castellated baronial mansion, which at one time belonged to the Strozzi family. It occupies a strong position upon a rock overlooking the river, which here flows in a deex^ bed between the rocks. The glen some- times opens so as to leave room for a narrow border of green meadows, and the river is here and there fringed with willows and other trees. A portion of the buildings at Lunghezza consist of extensive magazines, used formerly for the reception of the produce of the rich soil of the vicinity: but as the modern Romans no longer navigate the Anio, this COL 175 is now transported to Rome in carts, and Prince Bor- gliese lias in consequence been obliged to repair the ancient road. The ancient road may be traced from Tor Sapienza to Lunghezza, by frequent remains of its pavement. Pliny positively affirms that CoUatia was in the Yia Tiburtina ; but this road to Tibur must have certainly passed by Lunghezza and Lunghezzina, on the left bank of the Anio. The rock of Lunghezza seems well adapted for the position of a citadel, and its natural strength has been improved by art. The rocks have been cut, and caverns, apparently sepulchral, have been formed, and an access made to the river ; but positive indications of ancient fortifications have not yet been observed. About two miles higher up the Anio is Lunghezzina, a house of a similar description. Still higher is another called Cesarano ; above this is a toAver called La Foce, and then the villa of Adrian. On the opposite, or right bank of the river is a great farm-house called Cavaliere, which overlooks Lunghezza. Li the valley of Osa, toward the Castel dell' Osa, are some other sepulchral caverns, in addition to those already noticed in the rock of Lunghezza ; and on the right, at about half the dis- tance, is a tomb which may be entered. The above remarks serve to show, that if Collatia had been at the Castel dell' Osa, there would have been no necessity for a Yia Collatina ; that the direction of the Via Collatina was toAvard Lunghezza, and not toward Castel deir Osa ; and that the road Avhich abruptly turns from it in that direction was rather a part of the road from Fidense to Gabii than from Eome to Collatia: in addition to this, it has been shown that Lunghezza would have been a more defensible situation than the Castel deir Osa, and more adapted to the purposes, for which we are informed Collatia was built by Tarquin. All that is urged in proof of the position commonly assigned to Collatia is the small piece of ancient wall at Castel dell' Osa ; and this will probably still continue to influence the opinions of many, with respect to the site of the place. 176 COL Colli Farinelli. This is the name given by the peasants to the low hills to the right of an ancient road, leading by the Ponte dell' Aqiioria and Colonnicelle, from Tivoli to Monticelli. Two of these hills, reaching to the road, have certain lines of banks, which in some places assume almost the appearance of walls, and the road seems to enter the inclosure by a gate, and to go out of it by another: within the inclosure is an ascent on the right; and in several places terrace walls may be observed. If this Avere not a city, (which is doubtful,) it must have been the villa of a Roman patrician, the grounds of which were well fenced. In the upper part of the enclosure is a place, not unlike a smaU citadel, which may have been the house. The place is worthy of examination. There was no advantage of water here, nor was the situation very defensible. Behind, and at a greater distance from the road, is a little valley near Yitriano; on the other side of which, upon a terrace wall, are the remains of the foundations of a temple ; the pavement of which, in different-coloured marbles, existed not long ago. Near this is a pedestal with an inscription of Munatius Plancus. The same individual is also mentioned in an COL 177 inscription in the Vale of Tempe. This in the valley of the Colli Farinelli, speaks of a Temple of Saturn, of which it may be supposd the neighbouring ruins are the remains*. The commentator on the beautiful Ode, (i. 7,) in which Horace states his preference of Tibur to all other places, says — " Munatium Plancum adloquitur, consu- larem virum, Tiburtem origine, in cujus gratiam dicit." — This ode renders the pedestal doubly interesting, and a truly classical relic. Other ruins of villas are found here; and at Ceano are the remains of the walls of Caenina. CoLLE Ferro. (Vide Toleria.) COLLE LUNGO. Colle Lungo is a name given by the common people to the range of mountains running from near Arsoli and Oricoli to the village of Trevi, which seem to have been known to the ancients as the Montes Simbrivini. Colle Lungo is also the name of a small hill near Nomentum. Colle Stefano. (Vide Villa Adriana.) CoLONNA. (Vide Labicum.) COLUMEN. " Dum ad Antium hsec geruntur, interim ^qui arcem Tusculanam nocte capiunt: reliquo exercitu hand procul moenibus Tusculi considunt, ut distenderent [* Sir W. Gell appears to have forgotten that Munatius Plancus was distinguished among other things for having restored or rebuilt the temple of Saturn at Rome, a service commemorated by Suetonius (Aiigust. c. 29), as well as in a monumental inscription at Caieta, which much resembles the one here given, but is somewhat fuller. It is given by Gruter, tom. ii. p. 439, No. 8. A fragment of another inscription, preserved by Fulvius Ursinus, appears to have formed part of that on the temple itself, and it was found, according to his statement, (Famil. Roman, p. 168,) " Romsc prope ipsam Saturni sedem," though it is not very certain what building he means by this designation. — E. B.] 178 CON liostliinl copias. Hjec celeriter Romam^ ab Roma in castra Antium perlata, movent Romanos baud secus qnam si Capitolium captum nunciaretur. Fabius, omissis omnibus, pr^edam ex castris raptim Antium con- vehit. Ibi modico proesidio relicto, citatum agmen Tus- culum rapit .... Aliquot menses Tusculi bellatum .... Postquam ventum ad extremum est, inermes nudique omnes [^qid) sub jugum ab Tusculanis missi: hos ignominiosa fuga domum se recipientes, Romanus Consul in Algido consecutus, ad unum omnes occidit. Victor ad Columen, (id loco nomen est,) exercitu re- licto, castra locat." (Livj, lib. iii. 23.) ^ow, from the similarity of the names, Columen might have been supposed to have been on the hill called Colonna, to the north-east of Tusculum, Avere it not well known that Labicum existed there. Some think that Columen and Corne were the same place; if so, Cornufelle (vide Cornufelle) is the spot; or La Molara would be a likely place for the halt of Fabius. CONCA. A village bet^veen ]!^ettuno and Yelletri, the inhabit- ants of which are barely sufficient for the cultivation of a large farm in the neighbourhood. Satricum, Pollusca, and Longula (for the indentifi- cation of which no documents exist,) were in this dis- trict; and of one of them, Conca is perhaps the repre- sentative. This place must have been at some period of more consequence than it is at present; as the Strada di Conca, which runs from Rome by the Castel di Leva, and the Osteria di Civita, would seem to testify. (Vide Corioli.) At Conca are remains of a wall of quadrangular stones; and the elevated ground on which it stands, apparently artificially scarped down, has all the appear- ance of the site of an ancient town. The place has the privilege of sanctuary for certain offences, granted by one of the popes, Avith a view of creating thereby a population for the culture of the COR 179 iinliealthy region of the Campo Morto, wliicli lies between Conca and Lanuvium. JSTear the village are considerable iron works. Cora. Cora, although its vicinity is not given in detail, was used in the triangulation for the Map, and its place fixed from Civita Lavinia, Velletri, and Cisterna. Cora, says Cluver, seems to have been one of the cities built by the Aborigines and Pelasgi; but Pliny calls the Corani, Trojans. According to Livy, it was a Yolscian city, which its situation seems to Avarrant. It afterwards, like many others, became a Roman muni- cipium. Cora is seen for many miles from the Via Appia. It has still magnificent remains of the ancient walls, (which seem of Pelasgian origin,) the remains of a Doric temple, called that of Hercules, and another ruin*. These vestiges render Cora one of the most interesting places in Italy. — A new road from Yelletri has now made it more accessible. CoRBio. (^Vide Rocca Priore.) CoRcoLLO. (Vide also Querquetula.) A farm-house, situated on the Eio Maggiore, four miles below^ Gallicano, six below Zagarolo, and about one below^ Passerano, upon a rock above the junction of the three principal streams of the district. This insu- lated rock, or table-land, is cut oft' by a deep channel from the high ground behind, and is on all sides so equally precipitous, that most probably its form is in a great degree artificial. [* The ruins at Coi-ca have been fully described by Professor Nibby, {Contorni di Roma, torn, i.) Specimens of the structure of the poly- gonal walls, which form several successive tiers of terraces or substruc- tions, are also given in Dodwell's Views of Cyclopean Cities. Some pai-ts of them are of a very rough and irregular, as well as massive, con- struction; others, again, are very carefully wrought and neatly fitted in the polygonal style. — E. B.] N 2 180 COR There is an entrance from the west, where a narrow access has been cut through the rocks. It was in all probability the site of an ancient town; and it has been usually supposed that Querquetula* stood here. An ancient road, of which the traces remain, ran from Cor- collo to Gabii ; and this joined another, which seems to have passed from the bridge of the river Osa to Tivoli, below the villa Fede, or Adriana. A part of the road is now obliterated, and is impassable for carriages. There was a Porta Querquetulana at Rome which opened toward this country f. From Querquetula there seems also to have been a road to Collatia, another to Pedum, and a third to Praeneste, of which the traces are visible. Some have imagined the Rio Maggiore, the Veresis of antiquity. — One of its principal streams comes down the valley of Camporaccio, in which is the aqueduct, now called Ponte Lupo, a picturesque ruin. CORIOLI. KopioXa' KoptWa' KopioXka' Corioli is more difficult to find than almost any city within the boundaries of our Map; which is the more to be lamented, as, under Caius Marcius Coriolanus, it was for a short time at the head of a confederation almost too powerful for Rome. There are many reasons for placing it in the vicinity of Lanuvium, Lavinium, Aricia, and Ardea. Livy, (lib. ii. 39,) speaking of Coriolanus, says, that " after having expelled the Roman Colony from Circeii, he passed by bye-roads into the Latin Way J, and took * Querquetula seems also to have been written Corcutula, and the people were called Corcutulani. (KopKovrovXavoi. Dionys.) [t The Porta Querquetulana, or Querquetulana, at Kome was so called, not with any reference to the distant and obscure city of Quer- quetula, but to the name of the Coelian hill to which it was immediately adjoining, and which, as we learn from Tacitus, (Ann. iv. 65,) was originally called Querquetulanus from the oak woods with which it was covered. Querquetum was merely the old form of quercetum. See Pomp. Festus, voc. Querquetulana^. — E. B.] t With respect to his passing on to the Latin Way, there must, how- ever, be an error, as the towns next mentioned were not upon that road. COR 181 Satricum^ Longula, Pollustia, and Corioli. He then took Lavinium, Corbio, Yitellia, Trebia, Labicum, and Pedum; and from Pedum marched to the Fossae Cluilise, to attack Rome." {Vide Toleria.) This account seems to indicate that Corioli must have been somewhere between Lanuvium and Ardea, as Marcius proceeded from Circeii to Lavinium, without touching- at either of these cities. According to Dionysius, however, (who, though a Greek, is the best of Roman antiquaries,) "Marcius having taken Circeii, TJ.C. 266, after the council of the Yolsci had met at Ecetra, passed on to the Via Latina, took Tolerium, then Bola, then Labicum, then Pedum and Corbio, and then Corioli. Bovillas was next taken; and then Lavinium was besieged and circumvallated; Marcius at the same time going to the Fossae Cluilise near Rome." By this route Marcius must have passed by the mountains of Albano, in his way from Corbio to Corioli; and nothing can be more clear, or more in accord with the topography of the country. "Marcius, having allowed the Romans thirty days' truce, returned and took Longula, and then Satricum, sending the spoil to Ecetra for the trooj)s. He then took Setia, and returning took Polusca, Albieta*, and Mugilla, and came again to Corioli, having taken seven cities in the thirty days." Turnus Herdonius, who was treacherously murdered by Tarquin at the Aqu?e Ferentinae, is said by Dionysius (lib. iv.) to have been, not as Livy relates, of Aricia, but of Corioli ; and in lib. ^n.. Corioli is stated to have been a sort of capital of the Yolscians. Longula, Polusca, and Corioli Avere so near together, that the Consul Postumius Cominius, U.C. 253, took Longula and Polusca on the same day, and marched to Corioli on the day foUoA^ing. As in their attack upon these places some time was lost in beating down the '^'' Albieta was very possibly some remnant of Appiola, or of Mu- gilla, on the opposite side of the valley, both near the Ponte delle Streghe. 182 COR gates and in scaling the walls^ his march upon Corioli was necessarily somewhat delayed. The taking of Corioli is thus described by Dionysius: — ^'The Coriolani had a strong army, they were well prepared, and the walls could not be forced. In vain the Consul besieged it during the night; he was re- pulsed with loss. On the following day, however, having got ladders and military engines ready, he pre- pared for a fresh attack. The Antiates sent assistance to the Coriolani, but their troops were met by half the Roman forces. The people of Corioli, however, expect- ing their allies, opened all their gates and rushed upon the enemy ; and having, at the first onset, an advantage in the ground, (which sloped from the city,) they drove the Romans back to their camp; but Caius Marcius, afterwards called Coriolanus, rallying them, they i)ur- sued the flying Coriolani, and entered the city with the fugitives. The combat in the streets was furious, and the women assisted, throAving down tiles on the Romans. The Romans were, however, at length victorious. Mar- cius having plundered the city, hastened to join the other half of the Roman army, which had marched against the Antiates, and proclaiming the reduction of Corioli, which was attested by the smoke of the burning houses, attacked and routed the enemy." (Dionys. lib. vi. p. 305.) The near vicinity of Longula and Polusca to Corioli may be inferred, as has been already remarked, from these passages of Dionysius; and Antium could have been at no great distance, for a messenger having been despatched by the Coriolani for assistance from Antium, it Avas sent on the following day. It may also be perceived that Corioli Avas situated on a hill, but not, like Ardea or Lavinium, on an abrupt eminence formed by tAvo brooks of the plain ; for from such there Avould be no declivity gradually sloping to the plain beloAv. From the speedy arriA^al of succours from Antium, it Avould almost seem that Corioli Avas situated nearer to Antium, and further from Mount Albano than has been generally supposed; but, on the other hand, it COR 183 must l3e remembered that when at a subsequent period (U.C. 310) the cities of Ardea and Aricia disputed with each other their respective rights to the possession of certain territories of Corioli, (which the Romans, upon being made umpires, usurped for themselves,) that the Antiates advanced no claim to the contested lands, Avhich they would in all likelihood have done had the territory been nearer to Antium than to Ardea and Aricia. {Vide Livy, lib. iii. 71.) Corioli therefore Avas probably somewhere between Aricia and Ardea, inclin- ing perhaps a little toward Antium. Of the situations which seem to offer themselves as possessed of the requisite characteristics, none seem at present more eligible than the hill beyond Genzano, called Monte di Due Torri, or that called Monte Giove, both of which are on the right of Via xVppia. It is nevertheless true that no such indications of antiquity have yet been found at these places as would suffice to establish Corioli at either. Monte di Due Torri has, indeed, a ruined castle in a position which would be well adapted for the citadel, and the town might have been built on the slope toward Monte Giove ; and the latter hill is so caUed, perhaps, from a temple of Jupiter, which the Eomans, (who frequently spared the temples,) may have left standing when they destroyed the city. A third probable site is the hill near the Osteria di Civita, between the roads to Conca and JSTettuno. This is now covered with wood, but ruins may be concealed beneath, and the road to Conca would require further investigation. On that to I^ettuno there is no position where a city upon an eminence could have existed. Between the Osteria di Civita and Civita Lavinia (Lanuvium) are the remains of an ancient road, which branched from the Yia Appia, near Monte due Torri. 1^0 w, it is not at all probable that this should originally have conducted only to a vineyard, and to no city is it more likely to have led than to Corioli. Its pavement, perhaps, may not have existed in the days of the Yolsci, yet the utility of the road may have caused it to have been preserved by the llomans, and to have been after- wards paved by them. 184 COR Though this road may have been that between Aricia and Corioli, yet, judging from the direction it takes, it could not have reached any city that was seated upon a hill. The ancients, however, use the words high and abrupt, and hill and mountain, with so little precision, that the descent from Corioli may have been after all only a few feet. There are some ruins below Civita La^ania, on a little rising ground, which, if not too near that place, might be thought to mark the site of Corioli. There are also some tombs, and a long line, or bank, which may have been the course of the walls, but there is nothing sufficiently certain to lead to a decision. It is not a little singular that Lanuvium is neither named among the cities taken by Coriolanus, nor among those which united under him in the league against Rome. Coriolanus was buried under a large Tumulus at Antium, which probably still exists. From the above remarks Monte Giove would appear the most eligiJDle position yet observed that could be assigned to Corioli, if there were any ruins to confirm it. Monte Giove may be visited by the road to Antium, which, near Frattocchie, quits that to iVlbano, and pass- ing a ruin which may be a tower of the wall of Bovilloe on the left, leaves Palaverde to the right. After another tower on the right is the ruined and moated Castelluccio, and then on the left Mt. Crescenzio and a fountain at ]\Iile XIII. Further on a road runs to Castel SaveUi on the left. Before Mile XIY. is a church, and another CasteUuccio, and on the left a lake, (now drained.) which was once a crater. At Mile XYII., beyond La Cecchina, a bridge crosses the stream from the Yallericcia and the Lake of Nemi, in the direction of Ardea. As far as the Nettuno road, it runs in an artificial hoUow, in which is an aqueduct. At Mile XYIII. is the Osteria of the Fonte di Papa, another of the streams from the Lake of Xemi ; [from this, on the right, a road runs to Campo Leone, where Corioli might also be sought for ;] and a little beyond the Osteria is ]\Ionte Ciove on the left. At Mile XX. the country is an open do^Mi. The COR 185 Osteria di Civita and the division of the roads to Conca and l^ettuno, are at Mile XXII. At Mile XXY. is CaiToceto, a farm-house, with a dreary high flat on the right ; and on this, at some distance, is a place called Buonriposo, which seems to have been once called Cas- trum Verposum, or Yerposa. This also might be visited in search of Corioli ; as might likewise a spot called Carano, on the road to Conca*. CoRNACCHiA. Torre della. A tower, now ruined, in the valley of the river from Torre Yergata, or Marrana. It is higher up the valley than Crescenzia, and stands on a rock, on the right. CoRNAccpiiE. Torre deJIe. Torre delle Cornacchie, or Torre Cornacchia, (for it is difficult to discover its precise name, some shepherds being the only human beings to be met with on the spot,) is a high tower, on the left of the road from Eome to La Storta, at about the eighth milestone on the Yia Cassia. CORNAZZANO. A lofty, precipitous, and well-Avooded mountain, be- tween Licenza and Monte Genaro. At its foot stood the Sabine farm of Horace. Two fountains rise under Monte Cornazzano ; one of these is now decorated Avith masonry, and formed into cascades, and is not far from the site of the villa of Horace. The other is in its natural state, and is nearer to Mt. Genaro. The latter is usually supposed to be that of Blandusia, celebrated by the poet. Cornazzano has been supposed the ancient Lucre- tilis. It is one of the most beautiful mountains in Italy, being finely shaped, and also covered Avith forests. [* Corioli is one of the cities of Latium, which had certainly ceased to exist at a very early period: hence it is by no means certain that Livy or Dionysius themselves had any clear idea of its situation: and it is almost impossible that any ruins should now remain cajjable of deter- mining in a satisfactory manner the position it occupied. Probably all that will ever be accomplished is to assign at random to some nameless hill the title immortalized by Livy and by ShaksiJeare. — E. B.] 186 COR CoRNE. (Vide Tiisci^Lim and CoRmrFELLE.) CoRNETO. ( Fide Tarquinii.) CoRNicuLUM. (Vide Angelo, St.) CORNUFELLE. A curious liexagonal^ volcanic lake, now drained by means of canals, situated below the great villa Mon- dragonc, near Frascati. An ancient road from Tus- culum to Labicum and Gabii ran bj it : l)elow Avhicli is an emissario, and a Villa Cornufelle, with ancient remains. The place may be about two miles from Monte Porzio. The lake or crater was nearly half a mile in diameter, and, like other craters, is surrounded by a lip or elevation. The existence of this place was first communicated by Professor JSTil^by, who dis- covered it. This gentleman is inclined to believe it the lake Regillus. The lake Regillus was certainly in the terri- tory of Tusculum, (Liv. lib. ii. 19,) which that below Colonna (commonly called the Regillus) could scarcely have been, whether Colonna be supposed to occupy the site of Labicum, or Avhether that of Gabii. In the Map, ' the lake below Colonna, and that of Cornufelle, are both marked Lacus Regillus. Cornufelle is doubtless the place called Corne by Pliny : — " There is on a suburban eminence of the Tus- culan region, a place called Corne, a grove dedicated by Latium to the ancient worship of Diana." The villa at Cornufelle was probably that of Passienus, orator, and twice consul. There seems to have been a grove of clipped beeches, so much admired by Passienus, that he used to embrace it, to sleep under it, and to pour wine upon it. An ilex was near it, thirty-five feet in circum- ference, Avhich sent forth ten branches, each like a large tree. Livy says, (lib. iii. 2-3,) that the Roman consul, having driven the ^Equi from Tusculum, slew them at Algidus, and returning thence, encamped at Columen. Cluver takes Columen, which he thinks Colonna, for the CRE 187 same place as Corne; but Avliatever Columen may have been, Corne was certainly at Cornufelle. A species of wild cherry-tree, (the Corneil,) Avas called by the Eonians, Cornus ; but the beeches of Corne were probably the trees called Carpini. CoRRESE. (Vide Cures.) COSIMATO. San Cosimato, is a convent, beautifully situated on a high rock above the Anio, at about two miles from Yico Yaro : the river runs in a picturesque and narrow glen below, where the Yia Yaleria once crossed it by a bridge, the ruins of which still remain. The buildings are not in themselves of much conse- quence; but the cypresses Avhich adorn them, and the striking situation of the place, and of the village of Saracinesco, on the lofty mountain above, form a beau- tiful picture from the carriage-road. On the other side of the Anio, and opposite Yico Yaro, (where a bridge crosses the river,) is a large cave, entered by a broad and low arch; and in the rocks below the convent, many others may be observed, not unlike the cells of hermits. They seem to have been partly natural, partly artificial, and are called by the monks Stufe di ]^erone. Crescenzia. An old house in the valley of one of the branches of the Acqua Traversa, which crosses the Flaminian Way, not far from Torre del Quinto. The building- is picturesque; but being destitute of wood, the country itself has scarcely any recommendation. Ad Sextum may have been on the road near Crescenzia. Crescenzio, Mt. (Vide Castelluzza.) Cretone. A little village of 121 inhabitants, about one mile from Castel Chiodato. It is on the road between Monte 188 CRU Rotondo and Palombara, and is rather more than four miles from the latter place. CrUSTUMERIUM ; CrUSTUMIUM. Kpovarov/xejJLoV 'H Kpovarofiepia. " Crustumerimn," says Cassius Hemina, " was origi- nally called Clytemnestriim, from the wife of a person of the nation of the Siculi^ who built it." This city, during the last century, was generally supposed to have been situated on the eminence of Sette Bagni to the right of the road near Malpasso, where there was then an Osteria* ; but a passage of Livy, (lib. iii.,) supposing Eidenae to have been at Castel Giubileo,) is sufficient to show that such was not its position: — "Ab Ereto (Romani) per silentium noctis profugi, propius urbem inter Fidenas Crustumeriamque, loco edito castra communierant." Now, as there is no height between the hill of Sette Bagni or Malpasso, and Fidenfe at Castel Giubileo, this eminence could not have been the site of Crustumerium. The hill has, however, in some parts, its rocks cut perpendicularly, like those at Fidense; there are also vestiges of brick ruins ; there are two projecting points of the hill, and the appearance of what may have been the road to a gate between them; on the point also to the left of this ascent is a deep, artificial cut, sepa- rating the extremity from the rest of the hill, which seems most probably designed to increase the elevation of the walls of a city; added to this, the site is defen- sible, without being inconvenient; and the platform above is attached by a sort of isthmus to the higher country behind. Another argument in defence of the opinion that Sette Bagni is the site of Crustumerium, may be found in the circumstance that this was the situation fixed upon by the early Eoman antiquaries, Avho may be sup- posed to have observed ruins which have since perished; * The Osteria and the Malpasso have now disappeared: a bridge has been built over the brook, and the road made good. CRU 189 but this Avill be of little weight when it is recollected that they seldom took the trouble to quit the direct road, but pitched at once upon such sites as were easiest of access. At Marcigliana, there is nothing like the vestiges of a city; neither is there anything at Marcigliana Yecchia, beyond the remains of villas, — which, on a pretty eminence, might be expected; nor still further on the Via Salaria, by the side of the Tyber, is there any spot suited to the site of a city, till about the tenth mile — where a hill nearly insidated, and of a yellowish hue, (called by the people La Doganella,) stretches to Forno ^uovo at Mile XI. It is true, that upon this no vestiges have as yet been found; but at Forno N^uovo is a place called Santa Columba, or Colomba, where a spring, and the insulated hill of a church, (united to the higher country only by a narrow neck of land, and to the hill before mentioned, by another isthmus,) seem to mark out the site of a city Avith some show of probability. Although there are no remains of antiquity here, with the exception of a small fragment of a column at the church of Santa Columba, yet there is something remarkable in the situation; and the fountain, which seems to rise on the spot, would have rendered it eligible as a site. On the ancient road, Avhich runs through a Grotto from near Malpasso, and then behind Marcigliana, toward J^omentum, there is no situation where Crus- tumerium coidd possibly have stood, — except perhaps at the Torre di San Giovanni; — but this is at too great a distance from the Tyber; (being four miles from it;) for down this river the Crustumerini are represented by Dionysius as having, upon a certain occasion, sent boats laden with corn for the use of the Romans, which were intercepted by the Fidenates. (Lib. ii. 53.) ^ow the territory of the Crustumerians is known to have extended in one direction to at least the thir- teenth mile from the city of Rome, where the country of the Yeientes on the other side of the Tyber was terminated, by that of the Capenates: but it is probable that the Crustumian territory ran yet higher up the 190 CRU river, opposite to that of the Capenates. (Vide Plin. lib. iii. 8, 9.) The retirement of the people to the Mons Sacer, being* called the Crustumerine secession, makes it probable that this territory at one time reached in the opposite direction as far as the Ponte JS^omentana*. In determining the site of the city, v,c are confined within narrower limits, by the knovrn situations of Fi- dena?, Ficulnea, and JSTomentmn. We are inclined to fix upon Monte Eotondo as its site, although it may perhaps be objected to, as being- only tAvo miles from Momentum. It is probable, how- ever, that in the direction of the Tyber, there was no nearer city than Cures. Monte Eotondo is sufficiently in the vicinity of the river, being at the most only two miles from it, and the site is as fine and commanding- as could have been desired. An ancient writer (Servius) says that Crustu- merium derived its name from the appearance of a crust or circular knoll, (" a crustuJd panis,'") and this agrees well with Monte Eotondof : upon the hill some few vestiges of antiquity are also observable, though no ancient walls have as yet been discovered. " Crustumerium," says Dionysius, " was an All^an colony, sent out many years before the building of Eonie. Though better prepared than the Ca^ninenses, its troops were beaten by Eomulus, and the city was taken. The inhabitants were in part removed to Eome, and a Eoman colony was introduced;" (lib. ii. 53;) and, according to Livy, the fertility of the soil attracted many new settlers. The country, anciently celebrated for its pears, is even at the present day, all around Monte Eotondo, so overrun with low wild pear-trees, that in the summer the prodigious quantities of that fruit in the unenclosed ])lain, and on the lower elevations, is quite astonisliing. The pears are very small, but of good flavour. These * The land in tlie vicinity of the Ponte Nomentana had jDOSsibly been forfeited by the rebcUious Fidcnates, not long before this secession. t The very name of Monte Rotondo has a sort of connexion with that which the ancient etymologist gives as the signification of Crustu- merium. CUR 191 trees are most frequent in tlie direction of Moricone. It is impossible not to recognize in them the ancient pears of Crustmnerium. " Crustumina pyra," says Serviiis, ^'smit ex parte rubentia, ab oppido Crustumio nominata;" and whoever visits the country in the month of July, will not only be struck with the number and fertility of the trees, but also with the peculiarity of the redness of one side of the fruit. The town of Monte Kotondo is enclosed by a modern wall with towers, the erection of which has probably consumed whatever might have remained of the ancient fortifications. It has 2,445 inhabitants, and was for- merly a duchy of the Barberini family. It has lately been sold to the Prince of Piombino. The lofty tower of the ducal mansion is seen from every part of the Campagna, and even from Rome; and, from the Belvedere on its summit, magnificent and extensive prospects open on every side. It Avas consequently of great service in extending triangles over the whole country for the position of points in the Map, and was one of the first places visited. Monte Rotondo has more of the air of a town than is usual in this country; but the people and the streets are not of the cleanest description. A convent to the east has a respectable appearance. Beyond Fonte di Papa, a steep hill, with a good road, ascends to the toAvn; and there is another road leading to La Man- tana, (Momentum,) only two miles distant. It is strange that the ancient Itineraries do not give the road to Crustumerium, as it was situated between two roads of importance, (the Via Salaria, near the Tyber, and the Yia l^omentana,) and stood at no great distance from either. The city was reputed very ancient; "Antemnaque jii'isco Crustumio prior." (Silius, lib. viii.) It seems to have been generally a faithful ally of the Romans. The Sabines besieged the city U.C. 260; and U.C. 297, devastated the Crustumerian country as far as ludenoj. 192 CUR Cures. KvpiavoL^) and the Carians and Lydians probably spoke cognate tongues, for, says Herodotus, the Carians, the Mysians, and Lydians were deduced from the same stock. Had we not specimens of Lycian, which prove it a language altogether distinct from the Greek language, we might have imagined that their barbarism in language only referred to dialect*. It is curious that the curule chairs, the lictors, and the red or purple border of the toga, which the Eomans borrowed from the Tuscans, are recognized by Diou}^- sius himself as of Lydian origin. Clemens of Alex- andria also observes that many of the rites of Etruria were imported from Asia ; and Diodorus (lib. v.) repre- sents these insignia as having been derived from Lydia. Dionysius (lib. i. 30,) is inclined to think the Etru- rians indigenous, and says, they called themselves Ea- * The Lycian language is now far better known than it could be in the time of Sir W. Gell, in consequence of the numerous inscriptions discovered and published by Mr. Fellowes ; but the researches into the subject have as yet gone but little Avay towards clearing up its affinities. The alphabet, however, appears to have been satisfactorily determined, and as we are thus able to read both this and the Etruscan, wo are in a position to judge that there is no affinity between them : at least, none sufficiently close to lend any support to the supposition of the Lydian origin of the Etruscans. — E. B.] 208 ETR sena, from the name of one of their princes. In modern times, many have been inclined to derive this name from Ehaetia, and among these are Freret, Heyne, and Me- buhr; and indeed Livy, Pliny, Justin, and Stephanus call the Ehffitians, Tuscans. The learned Professor Scheuzer says, that among the Orisons he found the names Rhasi, Tusci, the castle of Raziin, Retzim, Tusis, Tusana, and Tuscia. Miiller asserts that the Tyrrheni Avere driven from Tvppa, a Lydian city, by the lonians. All things being considered, the common consent of antiquity (there being only one dissentient opinion,) is, without doubt, our safest guide, and far preferable to any ingenious theory of the present day. If the Placiani of the Hellespont spoke a language different from the Greeks, it was probably Thracian ; and perhaps there is not a greater difference between the names Tyi'seni and Thraces, (in a language remarkably indifferent in the use of T and Th,) than between Rasena and Tyrsena. If the connexion which, according to Heredotus, exists between the Tyrrhenians and the Thracians on the Hellespont, be allowed, the Thracians, the Getre, the Mysians, Sauromatse, Scythians, and Bastarna?, and even the Celts, may be considered as mixed with the Pelasgi of Thrace; and the languages of these nations might have had some influence upon that of the Tyrrheni of Etruria Proper. Dionysius rather insists on deriving the name Tyr- rheni from the turreted houses of Etruria, — which seems whimsical. Rutilius has the line, "Inter Turrigenas Lydia tota suos." Some have said that the T was only a prefix or preposition, and thus have formed Tursena from T' Rasena. The possible identity of the Turri- genas of Rutilius, with the Aborigines, (by Lycophron called Boreigoni,) might also claim consideration ; for the Turrigense of the Latin language would differ very little from the Greek Avord for a Mountain Race. A great argument in favour of the Lydian extrac- tion of that portion of the Etrurians Avhich came to Italy by sea, is that the Romans, according to Festus Pompeius and Plutarch, had an ancient custom of mock- ing the Etruscans at their Capitoline games, by dress- ETR 209 ing an old man with juvenile ornaments, and calling- out, " Sardians to sell!" — Sardis being the capital of Lydia. It may be likewise observed, that deputies from Sardis, in the reign of Tiberius, wishing, says Tacitus, to procure for their city the honours and emoluments of the Temple of Cybele, which the emperor was about to build, supported their pretensions by showing a decree of the Etrurians, which recognized the Lydians as con- sanguineous: and, according to A^alerius Maximus, the games introduced into Rome from Etruria, Avere those which the Tuscans had learned from their ancestors, the Lydians and Curetes. It is the opinion of Cluver, that the Tyrseni came to Italy from Lydia and the isles of the JEgean, three hundred and nineteen years before the Trojan war, one hundred and thirty-eight after the migration of the CEnotrians or Aborigines at about one thousand five hundred and thirteen years prior to our »ra. The various accounts of the origin of the Tyr- rheni or Pelasgic Tyrrheni, seem to establish the fact, that if not immediately, they are remotely Pelasgi, and that at least one body of them came from Lydia. They conquered and united Avith the Umbrians, who were Gauls. About six hundred years before the Christian fera, in the reign of Tarquinius Priscus, '' that portion of the Etruscan nation," says Livy, "which had occupied the north of Italy, having been driven back by the Gauls to the south, became completely incorporated with the Pelasgi, as well as the Umbrians." BothMar- cianus of Heraclea, and Dionysius, in the Periegesis, give a similar statement. It may be proved by inscrip- tions, that the Etruscans extended to the modern Turin on the west, and to the Adige on the east of Italy; and they may have derived from those remote countries, as well as from Rha?tia, much which might render their language on their return unintelligible, both to Greeks and Romans. Aulus Gellius, indeed, writes of a lawyer who spoke so that you could not tell Avhether his lan- guage was Tuscan or Gallic. Festus says the people were called Tuscans from their frequent sacritices; (^Qvoo-kooc^) and the word Etruria is by no means unaptly derived by Isidorus, P 210 ETR Irom tlie circumstance that the country, with regard to Rome, lay on the other side of the Tyber. {erepoi\v(TT€(f)avov, and ^epae^ovijv, being adorned with garlands, and sacred to Proserpine. On certain feast days, the people of the neighbouring districts met there, at a species of fair, and brought many offerings. The robbery of certain Eomans by the Sabines, at one of these feasts, occasioned the battle at Eretum. (Dionys. lib. iii.) Feronia was near Capena, and was sometimes, per- haps, called Caferonianum. An edict of doubtful au- thenticity, cited by Ortelius, says, " Petra Sancta olim Forum Feronia?." Ortelius, in Fragmentis Catonis, mentions also " Feroniani Montes." There is at present a fountain called Felonica, (evidently a corruption of Feronica,) which forms the chief source of the river Grrammiccia, running by the Mola di St. Oreste, which it turns, and then by the ruins of the ancient city of Capena, to Scorano and the Tj^ber. The spot has not been examined with all the attention it merits ; but there can be little doubt of its being the site of the temple, and grove, and fountain of Feronia. Fescennia re? Fescennium. ( Vide Civita Castellana.) FeSTI; ^Pjcrrot. A place mentioned by Strabo as the boundary of the territory of Rome mider its most early kings, situ- FES 243 ated between the fifth and sixth mile-stones, and pro- bably on the Via Appia; (vide Roma Vecchia, et Via Appia;) a distance which exactly coincides with that of the Fossae Cluilia?, the boundary of the Roman and Alban territories, (ride Liv. i. 23.) At Festi, as the ancient limit of the Roman state, the priests continued to perform the Ambarvalian sacrifices, (A/x^apovtav,^ even in imperial times. The measurement from the ancient Porta Capena would place Festi near the spot now called Roma Yecchia. Here there is a sort of isthmus, formed by the Fosso di Fiorano on the right, — a rivulet which after passing the Castello di Cicchignola, unites with the Rivus Albanus, and falls into the Tyber at Yalca : the stream from Marino, and the fountain of Ferentina, ran in the centre, either in its natural bed, or as the Marrana, or Aqua Crabra* : another little stream (which rising not far from the temple of Fortuna Muliebris, on the Via Latina, runs under the Via Labicana, the Via Grabina, and the Via Tiburtina, and joins the Anio near the Ponte Lamentana, where it is called Acqua Bollicante) seems to mark the limits of the Roman ter- ritory onrthat side: and it is highly probable that the Fossa3 Cluilice were a mound and dyke made to protect the boundary in the space between the deep banks of these little streams. A reference to the Map will show the great x^i'oba- bility that these brooks might have formed the early limits of the Roman state; and the distance of Festi from the city, coinciding with that of the Campus Sacer Horatiorum, at the Fossae Oluiliae, where the Alban army had halted, and with the position of the victorious Coriolanus, at or near the temple of Female Fortune, (see this article,) on the Via Latina, and on the other side of this species of isthmus, the limits of early Rome seem to be marked out with much precision. The Ambarvalia consisted in the repetition of cer- * It should be recollected that were it not that the Marrana is at present almost entirely indebted to the source near Marino, for its arti- ficial supply of water, the Almo would be a much more copious stream. R2 244 FIA tain pl•ayel•^^, in a langua^'e so antiquated tlmt few have taken the trouble to examine it. ENOS LASES IVVATE NEVE LVERVE Nos Lares juvate neve luem MARMAR SINS INCVRRERE IN PLEORES. Mamers sinas incurrere in fiores. SATUR FVFERE MARS LVMEN BALI STA BERBER Ador fieri Mars Xu/iev maris siste .... SEMVNES ALTERNEI ADVOCAPIT CONCTOS Semones alterni advocate cunctos ENOS MAMOR IVVATO ZsTos Mamuri juvato TRIUMPE TRIUMPE TRIUMPE TRIUMPE TRIUMPE. Triumphe triumphe triumphe triumphe triumphe. FlANO. A village of 490 inhabitants, a few miles south- east of Soracte, with a large turreted mansion, the property of the duke of Fiano. Some have supposed the name to have been derived from the w ord Fanum. There was a place, not unlike Fiano in name, (Fla- vina, or Flavinium.) mentioned by Yirgil, " Hi Soi'actis liabent ai'ceis Flaviniaque arva, Et Cimiui cum moiito, latum lucosque Capenos." yEn. vii. 696. And by Silius, " Quiquo tuos Flaviiia focos, Sabatia quique Stagiia teneut, Cirainique lacum." — Sil. viii. 492. And as there is nothing by which its site can be fixed, this similarity of name may be of some weight. FiCANA. In many of the lists of towns at the foot of the mountains between Tivoli and the Tyber, Ficana seems to have been erroneously inserted in place of Ficulnea, which tends much to increase the diificulty of fixing their respective situations. FIQ 245 Festus (in Frag-. 60, p. 250, ed. Miill.,) j^ays:— "La- Idgo thinks the place is called Puilia Saxa, Avhich was once the site of Ficana, on the road to Ostia, at the eleventh mile." The hill of Dragoncelle, Avhicli is pre- cisely on the right hand of the Via Ostiensis, at the eleventh mile, and on the south bank of the Tyber, has been generally considered as the site of Ficana; and there is also a steep or precipitous descent, Avhich answers to that Avhich might be expected in the Saxa Puilia. Ficulea; Ficulnea; Ficulnea Yetus; FicELiiE ; FicoLENSES ; Ficulenses. The Ager Ficulensis joined the Eoman territory, as is proved by Yarro's '' Ficuleates ac Fidenates et fini- timi alii." "Antemna?, Tellene*, and Ficulnea, near the Montes Corniculani, and also Tiburf were built," says Dionysius, "by the Aborigines, after they had di'iven out the Siculi." * In some others of his lists of these Sabine, or ahnost Sabine cities, Dionysius again inserts Tellene, and often in conjunction with Ficana. Nothing can be more absurd, as both these places were in quite another part of the country ; and it is surprising this error has not been noticed before. Ca?nina and Fidenaj are jii'obably the places intended by him. [There seems no reason for this attack on Dionysius. In, the passage cited in the text, (lib. i. c. 16.) he evidently is enume- rating the cities with no reference to topographical order, but solely to their origin : and the words " near the Montes Corniculani" refer only to Ficulnea, in regard to which they are correct. What Sir W. Gell means by calling these " Sabine, or almost Sabine cities," it is not easy to see : as Dionysius expressly makes them all Latin cities. But there undoubtedly is much confusion between Ficulnea, Ficana, and Fiderse. It may be observed in general that the names of these ancient cities, which had perished in very early times, being unknown to the copyists, were frequently corrupted, and that consequently little dependence can be placed upon even the l)est MSS. in regard to them. — E.B.] With respect to the towns of this district, Dionysius seems to have again fallen into an error, when he relates that the Romans gave to Appius Clausus, who fled to Rome from Regillus, in Sabina, a piece of land between Fidenre and Picentia. Here, for HiKevnas, we should pro- bably read ^i and its vicinity is given in the subjoined lithograph. In this sketch, the Porta Ro- mana is placed so as to leave the sepulchral caverns just outside the city. It will be understood that the names of these gates are assumed, by way of distin- guishing the places. The gates to Ficulnea and Gabii might not have been near the citadel, though the ground seems to determine them. If the plot of ground be judged too small for the city, it could only have extended on the same hill, unless the sepul- chres Avere Avithin the Avails, Avhich aa ould be an anomaly. With the exception of Veii, the tombs of all the cities in the neighbourhood of Rome seem to have occupied only a small space ; from Avhich it may be inferred, that Avhen the places Avere subdued by the Romans, they Avere in the infancy of their poAver. FlLACClANO. A village, in a pleasant situation, near the Tyber and Mount Soracte. It has 44-5 inhabitants. FiNOCCHio, Osterla clL This is a small inn, on the Via Labicana, at a deserted part of the road, (there being only tAvo houses here,) Avhere, in ancient times, the road from Tusculum to Gabii crossed that from Rome to Labicum. On the side of Tusculum, this road is noAv almost obliterated; but from Finocchio to the Osteria dell' Osa, near the little river of that name, it is passable for carriages. It is repeatedly mentioned in the pages of Livy, as being frequently traversed in military marches: — " Ex Gabino in Tusculanos flexere colles." FiORANO.. ( F/c7e Via Appia.) 254 FIU FlUMICINO. Fiumicino is more than seventeen miles from Eome, and is so called from its situation ; being at the mouth of the lesser branch of the Tyber, on the north side of the Isola Sacra. The road to Fiumicino quits Eome by the right bank of the Tyber, and runs for a mile and a half with the ancient Via Portuensis, (usually supposed to have been that which runs by the river,) when it takes a turn to the left, proceeding in an almost direct line to Ponta Galera and Mile X., and to Porto, (Portus Trajani,) at about fifteen miles from Rome. The point where the Tyber falls into the sea below the tower of Fiumicino, is nearly eighteen miles from Rome. At about three miles on the road from Rome is the chapel of St. Antonio, and at five miles and a half, hav- ing passed an ascent called Scarica 1' Asino, Avitli another chapel, is a bridge over the brook, which runs to La Magliana, two miles distant on the left. At Ponte Galera is a second bridge, over the Acqua Sona, (which rises at the villa of the Emperor Antoninus at Laurium,) and an Osteria ; and the hills have the appearance of having been once inhabited. A long and uninteresting flat of full five miles succeeds, and the road then passes certain lines and mounds of earth, which are easily re- cognized as the walls of Trajan's Port. A white house stands directly in front, the property of the family of Di Pietro; and just beyond it is the hexagonal basin of the arsenal of the emperor, which still retains its form, and the road passes among the slips and docks, which were used in the construction of the gallies. (Vide Porto.) From this basin, the road turning to the left passes the church of Porto, and the bishop's residence, or Yescovato, where there are but few inhabitants. It then continues along the right bank of the river, for about a mile and a half, to Fiumicino. The Roman government have lately erected a long line of good houses at Fiumicino, among Avhich is an inn, well kept and furnished, to which the Romans make dinner ex- cursions in the spring. Unfortunately all these houses Fill 255 are built behind the high bank of sand which skirts the shore ; so that they have before them a dreary extent of flat and marshy ground, but do not enjoy a single glimpse of the sea, the neighbourhood of which was the express cause of their erection. In the summer the air is considered pestilential. The branch of the Tyber called Fiumicino (for the village and river have the same name,) is now considered the best and safest entry for ships, the greater branch being rendered impracticable by shifting sands; but the entrance into so narrow a channel is at all times dangerous, even to large boats. The current of the Fiumicino is strong, and the mouth of the river is defended and sustained by piles and planks. In time of floods, larger vessels can sometimes ascend the Tyber; and, upon one occasion, a small English cutter or schooner of Avar is said to have ascended so far as the spot near the church of San Paolo fuori le mura. The tower of Fiumicino miii-ht almost be called a TORRE DI FIUMICINO. 256 FON castle, being at least five stones liigli, without including tlie lig'ht-liouse on the top, and having three windows on each side. It was erected by one of the Popes Alex- ander to defend the entrance of the river from the Barbaresques, as well as to point out, by means of the beacon on its summit, the narrow and dangerous ingress to the Tyber. A sketch is subjoined of the tower, and of the mouth of the Fiumicino. FoNTE Di Papa. There are two or three places of this name in the vicinity of Eome. The appellation seems always to denote the existence of a fountain erected on the road by one of the Roman pontiifs. One of these fountains is on the road to ISettuno, at eighteen miles from Pome, below the now dry bed of the Lacus Aricinus, and near it is an Osteria. It seems to derive its waters from the emissaries in the valley belovr Lariccia. Another Fonte di Papa is on the road to Pieti, or Strada di Sabina, (commonly supposed the Yia Salaria,) at twelve miles from Pome, or rather more, and near the point from which the road turns off to Monte Po- tondo. Here is also an Osteria. FORMELLO. A large village of five hundred and ten inhabitants, on the right of the Via Cassia, at about fifteen or six- teen miles from Pome, and about four from the ruins of Yeii. The rocks here have been cut in many places into subterraneous channels, probably as receptacles for the water conveyed by an aqueduct to the Poman colony of Veil. The soil in the vicinity is said to be of so tenacious a quality that a bar of iron driven into the ground is Avith difficulty withdrawn ; and the peasants affirm that the Pedica di San Yincenzo (where some ruins exist) cannot be ploughed, except after a shower of rain. There is a road to Formello from Campagnano, and FOR 257 from the Madonna del Sorbo. The now neglected villa of the Chig-i family, called Versaglia, is near the village, being separated only by a ravine. On one of the roads to Formello is a church, dedicated to Santa Cornelia, where may be seen some remains of the ancient way; and in the village is the statue of a Roman emperor in marble, upon a pedestal. FoRNO, or II Forno. An osteria and church on the road to Tivoli, just beyond the point where the old road to Monticelli branched off to the left, at the distance of seven miles and a half from Rome. About a mile beyond is ano- ther osteria, called Le Cappannaccie. The road to Monticelli is ancient, as is proved by the sepulchres still seen there, and other ruins too in- distinct to decide upon. On the left, about a mile from II Forno, across a ravine, is a rocky height, which has somewhat the appearance of a citadel, but no ruins are seen. Further on is a great wood, which some would imagine the representative of the Sylva Malitiosa. Beyond is a large farm-house, called Marco Simone, near which many remains of antiquity have been found, so that it is conjectured that an ancient villa once oc- cupied the spot. This road probably ran direct to the city: its ruins are still apparent near Monte Yerde, Avhicli seems to have been Medullia. Forno Nuovo. An osteria on the road now called the Strada di Rieti, at about the eleventh mile. On the hill behind it is a chapel called Santa Colomba, on the road to which is a fountain. This and the conveniency of the site for the position of a city, made an examination of the spot necessary in order to discover if it retained any vestiges of the ancient Crustumerium; but neither at Santa Colomba, nor in the wood behind, nor on the hill called Le Doganelle, could any remains be dis- covered. Beyond Forno Nuovo is another Osteria below Monte Rotondo, called Fonte di Papa. S^ 258 FOR FORTUNiE MULIEBRIS TeMPLUM. A temple erected on the spot where Yohminia, and Yeturia dissuaded Coriolanus from attacking the city. It is generally thought that it was on the site now occupied by the Casale di Roma Yecchia, on the Yia Latina; but that is, perhaps, at too great a distance from Rome; for though Coriolanus encamped at first as much as forty stadia (five miles) from Rome, at the Fossa Cluilia, which, by the Latin or Tusculan Way, would not be far from the Casale, yet before his inter- view, says Dionysius, he had advanced ten stadia nearer to the city. (Vide Yia Appia.) Fortune Antiatin^e Templum. This temple was celebrated for the Sortes Antiatinoe. The prophecy delivered here respecting the death of Caligula by the hands of Cassius, may be seen in Sue- tonius. Fortune Pr^nestin^ Templum. Tliis was the most splendid of the abodes of the goddess Fortuna, so that a Greek philosopher once observed, that Fortune was nowhere so fortunate as at Praeneste. Ruins of this temple appear throughout the lower town of Palestrina, which occupies its site. Plans and elevations have been published by Professor ITibby and a Russian architect, which testify its magnificence, and the extent of its porticos. Four of the columns still remain in the wall of one of the houses in the town. The Barberini Mosaic was also within the precinct of the temple. — (^Vide Pra^neste.) Forum Populi. The habitations round the temple of Jupiter Latialis, on the summit of Mont Albano, are supposed to have constituted the village called Forum Populi. It is pro- bable that the meeting of the Latin confederates upon the mountain, and the fair held there, led to its erec-' FRA 259 tion. Here the consuls had a house where they some- times lodged, which Dio Cassius (lib. liii.) says was struck by lightning. On the mountain, there Avas also a temple of Juno Moneta, either near that of Jupiter, or at the Madonna del Tufo. Fossa Cluilia. ( Vide Via Appia, Festi, and Fortune MULIEBRIS TeMPLUM.) Frascati. Frascati is a toAMi with 4,20-3 resident inhabitants ; but during the summer, this number is considerably in- creased by the influx of foreigners, in consequence of its elevation and the comparative purity of the air. It is nearly twelve miles from Rome ; but by a new road in a right line, it has been proposed to reduce the dis- tance to eight. On the road, and not far from Rome, the ruins of an ancient aqueduct, and the arch of a modern one, are passed ; and soon after, on the left, is the high Tu- mulus called Monte del Grano. From a sepulchral chamber in this Tumulus, was procured one of the most magnificent of the sarcophagi of the museum of the Vatican ; an account of which is given in all the de- scriptions of Rome. On the right, before the Torre di Mezza Via, or half-way house, is the great ruin called Sette Bassi, (the Suburbanum Hadriana,) marked in the Map, and well worthy of examination, as the ruin of an imperial palace. linear Torre di Mezza Via, a road to Grotta Ferrata turns off" to the right, joining the Via Latina at the placed Centrone. I^ear the fountain and Osteria di Vermicino, the road to Frascati begins to ascend ; and, after passing a high table-land, descends into the valley; the ascent from which is steep and tedious. On the right, before the last descent, is a road, made by the Cardinal of York, which, after pass- ing a fine circular ancient tomb, leads to the Villa Muti, where he resided. On the right of this last descent, and nearly a hundred yards from the road, are certain volcanic rocks, thickly studded Avith coarse garnets, sometimes Avell polished and large, but quite black and S 2 260 GAB opaque. They are so numerous, that, with a hammer, a collection may be procured in a short time. Frascati, except the piazza containing the cathedral, is an inconvenient and dirty place: the surrounding- villas constitute its chief attraction. Of these, the Villa Conti, to the right on entering, with its beautiful groves, and the Aldobrandini, with its magnificent front, attract especial notice. Beyond the Conti is the Yilla Bracciano, in a beautiful position. Above the Aldobrandini are the Villas Falconieri and the Ruffi- nella; on the grounds of which last, are the ruins of the ancient Tusculum. To the left, is the splendid mansion of the Borghese family, Mont Dragone, now neglected and in decay ; and another villa on the same grounds, in better preservation. Most of these villas have fallen into neglect and desertion, the fashion being now to pass the summer at Albano; as there, and at Castel Gandolfo, the air is considered more pure. The Avoods of Frascati, which afford a most delightful shade in the summer, are per- haps the cause both of stagnation in the air, and of fre- quent variations in the temperature, which, however agreeable, tend to render the place less conducive to health. The villas and neighbourhood of Frascati are de- scribed in so many modern publications, that it is un- necessary to enter into further details respecting them. Frattocchie. ( Vide Via Appia.) Fregenve. Fregenaj could never have been a place of any im- portance. It Avas near the mouth of the Arrone, in the vicinity of the marshes, fens, and salt-pans, which extend all along the coast. The impurity of its air is alluded to by Rutilius : — " Obsessa) campo squalente Fregena?." Gabii. "Grabii," says Dionysius, (lib. iv. c. 53,) "a city of the Latins, and an Alban colony, was one hundred stadia GAB 261 from Rome, on the Via Pra^nestina. In the present day," he continues, " only a part of the place is inha- bited, namely, that which is near the great road. A judgment, however, may be formed of its former size and grandeur, from the ruins of buildings in various parts of the city, and the circuit of the walls, Avhich in a grtat measure still remain." Gabii was about half-way between Eome and Prte- neste, and the road, as far as Gabii, was sometimes called the Via Gabina ; but upon the decay of Gabii the whole seems to have been called the Pra^nestina. The Tables give the road thus : — Roma, Via Prcenestind. Gabios XII. Prseneste . . . . . . . XI. The history of Gabii is peculiar. Servius says it was one of the cities of the Prisci Latini, constructed by the kings of Alba. Plutarch, Stephanus, Strabo, and Diodes of Peparethus, cited by Festus, all agree that Eomulus and Eemus were sent to Gabii to learn Greek, and to receive such an education as was thought at the time liberal. Dionysius (lib. ii.) says, that " in the time of Eomulus the Greek language flourished more than the Latin, because the Greeks were the first establishers of the cities, and Eomulus himself employed Greek characters," — or rather, perhaps, Grecian learn- ing. Strabo shows that both Tibur and Gabii were of Grecian origin, Avhich they may have been — whether Gabii was founded by the colony of Evander, or by the Pelasgi. According to Solinus, Gabii was built by the Siculi, conducted by two brothers of that people, Ga- latios and Bios — names which are evidently Greek. AYhether the plural word Ga-bii was derived from the united names of these two brothers, Galatios and Bios — or whether plural appellatives signified a town and citadel, or implied that the city was formed, like Athens, by an union of two or more villages, are ques- tions that might deserve discussion. There must have been something in the circuni' 262 GAB stances of Gabii, Avhich distingiiislied it from the other towns of tlic Campagna ; certainly Tarqiiin the Proud, in tlie midst of his conquests, treated it with more respect. Whether motives of consanguinity, or the fortifications of Gahii, or reverence inspired by the superior civiliza- tion of the inhabitants, or regard for the place where Eomulus had been educated, dictated this forbearance, it is difficult to learn : but the pretended flight of the Prince Sextus Tarquinius, and his submission to the tedious expedient of a long course of deceit, in order to effect the extirpation of the nobles of Gabii, would seem to show that the city possessed such extraordinary means of defence, that it was difficult to gain possession of it by more ordinary means. The gates being opened to Tarquin by his son, Gabii fell without a struggle, and, as has been said, the people were treated by the conqueror with unexpected humanity. In the age of Dionysius, the shield of wood, covered with the hide of a bull slain on the occasion, upon which were inscribed the conditions of the peace concluded between Tarquin and the Gabini, still re- mained suspended in the temple of Dius Fidius, at Rome. When the Gauls quitted Eome in their flight from Camillus, they were overtaken and defeated near Pupi- nia, at the eighth mile, on the Via Gabina. (Liv. v. 49, compared Avith xxvi. 9.) Diodorus (lib. xiv.) mentions a place called Oveaaxiov^ which, he says, they attacked, and where they were again routed. Cluver thinks this place was Gabii, but possibly it was rather some castle on the river now called Osa. Gabii was so reduced in succeeding times, that Horace, Lucan, and Propertius, have all cited it as proverbially poor and deserted: though being on the road to Prseneste, (which still retained a degree of celebrity, from its temple of Fortune,) the lower part of Gabii still continued to be inhabited ; a forum also existed near it, upon the Yia Pra^nestina, which, from the statues found in and near the lake of Gabii, by the Borghese family, seems to have been of some conse- quence. The temple of Juno, the tutelary divinity of GAB 263 Gabii, and the remains of a building, Avliich from its sliape, seems to have been a theatre, are near the road, between it and the lake*. The present Via Gabina quits the Labicana near the Porta Maggiore. After leaving the Villa Polidori on the left, the road descends to the brook of the Acqua Bollicante, one of the early boundaries of the Roman state in this direction. ( Vide Festi.) IS^ot far beyond, on the left, is the place called Tor di Schiavi, and the circular ruin of the Villa Gordiani. Sepulchres are seen on each side of the way. After leaving the road to Lunghezza on the left, is a place called Casa Hossa; another brook is then crossed, and some more sepul- chres are seen ; after which the road passes, on a high flat to the left, a house and tower, called from the marble heads pilfered from the ruined sepulchres, Torre di Tre Teste. Beyond this, on the left, is the Tor Sapienza. On the descent, at Mile VI., the ancient pavement of the road remains; and at this point the ruins of an ancient aqueduct are observable. After passing a hollow and bridge, about the seventh mile, and another high flat, a deep valley, with its rivulet, is crossed by an ancient bridge, (the Pons ad i^onum,) still called Pontenono, or Pontenona: it is about eight miles from the Porta Maggiore, but Avas nine from the [* The decline of Gabii, like that of so many other towns of the Campagna, seems to have been constant, though gradual, during the -whole period of the republic. An attempt was made to arrest its pro- gress by Sylla, who appears to have restored its walls, and allotted the neighbouring lands to his soldiers : (Frontinus de Coloniis, p. 105, ed. Goesius:) but it still continued to be a very poor place; and Cicero mentions it with contempt among those municipia Avhich could hardly furnish deputies to take part in the sacred rites on the Alban Mount. (Pro Planeio, c. 9.) But it is clear from the results of the excavations made in 1792, and which exposed to view the Forum, Theatre, &c., as Avell as many statues and inscriptions, that it partially revived under the Emperors. From some of these inscriptions we learn that the Emperor Hadrian furnished it with an aqueduct, and other public buildings; and the forum and theatre may very probably be referred to the same period. It is uncertain at what time it was destroyed, but bishops of Gabii are mentioned after the fall of the Western Empire. The forum was situated between the theatre and the high road to Preeneste, imme- diately adjoining the latter. — E. B.] 264 GAB ancient ,2,-ate. jN"ot only do the seven arches of the ancient bridge remain perfect, but the pavement, and even a part of the parapet, still exist, and serve to show Avliat it was when entire. The remains are picturesque and well worth seeing. After this the road crosses a bare and desolate country ; and at the ninth modern mile descends gently to the Ostcria dell' Osa, a small inn not far from the river. The Osa is crossed by two bridges of wood. The stream is small, though its Avaters are increased by those of the lake of Gabii, Avhich runs into it by artificial canals, and also hy those of a large marshy plain, extending almost to the Via Labicana. The water of the lake has been very much lowered by this canal, and more draining is yet in contempla- tion, though there are already many square miles of uncultivated ground in the vicinity. On crossing the Osa the carriage-road turns to the left, and skirts the outside of the crater of Gabii, in the line toward Tivoli. The path to Gabii continues to the right, and after a trifling, but exceedingly rough descent, it reaches the inner side of the lip of the crater. Here is another Osteria ; and an ancient road may be traced, crossing a canal near a tomb, and run- ning along the top of the curve of the little eminence M'hich encircles the lake, in a curiously-cut and well- wrought channel in the tufo rocks. At the point where the road quits the ridge of the crater, is a large green tumulus on the right ; but this is, perhaps, nothing more than a heap of earth thrown up from a cut made to drain the lake, at some distant period. Having quitted the lake the Yia Gabina passes under the temple of Juno; and between this and the road are the ruins of a theatre, the fcAv remaining seats of Avhich are blocks of peperino, and have an air of remote antiquity. A theatre of this kind existing in an ancient Italian city, may perhaps be safely considered as a mark of early civilization, and of Greek origin*; [* Tho safeti/ of the conclusion here drawn by Sir W. Gcll may well GAB 2G5 and the fact that Tusculum, (a toAvn claiming a Greek descent,) Falerii, (notoriously Argive,) and Gahii, all possessed such buildings, seems to confirm this opinion. The temple (the cell of which remains almost entire, but rent in certain parts, apparently by lightning-,) is built of rectangular blocks, and, like the theatre, of peperino. It has the same aspect as that of Diana at Aricia ; (ride that article ;) that is, the wall of the posticum is prolonged beyond the cella, to the width of the portico on each side : " Columnis adjectis dextra ac sinistra ad humeros proniii." — Vitruvius. The number of columns could scarcely be less than six in front ; those of the flanks have not been de- cided. Judging from the fragments Avhich, in the year 1823, Avere lying on the spot, the order must have been Ionic. The columns of the temple were fluted, and of peperino, like the rest of the building; but it might perhaps be hazardous to assign them to a very remote period*. The pavement is a mosaic of large white tesserae, which has resisted the ravages of time and of the rough treatment to which it has been exposed from peasants and cattle. The front Avas turned toward the south, fifteen degrees Avest, and the architectural effect (the temple overlooking the theatre) must have been good. The remains of a spacious peribolos may still be ob- bc questioned unless Ave were sure in every case that because the city Avas ancient, the tlieatre was so too, but this is so far from being the case, that in every one of tlie instances here cited there are strong rea- sons for supposing the theatres referred to not to be older than the im- perial times of Rome. They are in fact not a mark of Greek orhjin, but of Greek influence during the flourishing ages of Rome. — E.B.] [* ]M. Abekon, in an excellent article on the tsvo temples of Gabii and Aricia, which present, as here remarked, so great a similarity of aspect, has fully shown that there are no grounds for assigning cither of them to a very early period, but that on the contrary they both present iniequivocal marks of the influence of Greek architecture upon the original and national Italian style of construction. He is, however, dis- posed to refer that at Gabii rather to the period of Sylla than to that of the Roman empire {Annali dell'Ist. di C'orrisp. Archcol. tom. xii. p. 32.) — E.B.] 266 GAB served ; from the north end of which, the lake in front, and the city on the hill to the right, must have afforded a beautiful prospect. The modern representative of the citadel of Gabii is Castiglione ; and on the volcanic rocks, in its imme- diate neighbourhood, were the walls — of which enough remains to prove that they Avere of tufo, and in parallelo- grams. The city and citadel occupied the eastern side of the lake, and seem to have been well placed ; being on the highest part of the ridge of the crater of a vol- cano, in the plain — as Alba Longa Avas on that of Mount Albano. Gabii Avas tAvelve miles from the Rome of Servius TuUius ; it is therefore about eleven from the modern gate. If it occupied the AAhole space from Castiglione to the road, Avhich seems certain, it must have been an extensive place. According to Strabo, (lib. v.) the Eomans had quarries, either at Gabii or in its territory. The Via Gabina, after passing the temple of Juno, leaves Gabii on the left, and runs by the church of Santa Prima. It then traverses an uninteresting coun- try to Cavamonte, about four miles and a-half from Gabii, and tAVO below Zagarolo. Upon the road the anci- ent pavement is observable in A^rious parts ; on the right are the remains of an ancient aqueduct in reticulated masonry, and there are also some tumuli, or sepulchres. The road likeAvise crosses tAvo streams, running to the Gabinian Pantano on the right ; and one running to the Anio, Avliich it crosses by the bridge called Ponte del Pico : on the right is a fountain called Palavicini. Beyond this is Ponte Cicala, and still further the ruin of an ancient fountain, or a semicircular seat. To the right, there is also a rock Avith votive niches ; and soon after the road arrives at Cava Monte. Cava Monte, Avhich it seems is also called Monte Spaccato, derives its name from a very deep cutting in the rocks, formed Avith much labour, for the passage of the Via Prtenestina from Gabii to Prcenestc. There is a chapel of the same name. After CaA^a Monte, the road crosses a deep valley by a lofty bridge, and turning to the right, Avith Galli- GAB 267 cano on the left, and passing the mansion of the Mar- chese d'Origo, at San Pastore, runs direct to Palestrina — distant, according to ancient authorities, eleven miles from Gabii. Much of the latter part of the road is either impas- sable, or extremely difficult and dangerous in a carriage. From Santa Prima, near Gabii, is another road, which is certainly the ancient communication betAveen Gabii and Scaptia, now Passerano. The carriage-road which turns off to the left, at the bridges of the Osa, and skirts the other side of the crater of Gabii, passes on the right, at the distance of little more than a mile, the farm-house of Castiglione, the citadel of Gabii. At about two miles from the river the road turns to the right, and running for about two miles further, through a bare and dreary country, reaches an Osteria and bridge in the valley below Cor- collo, (the ancient Querquetula,) which is situated on a singular knoll to the right. The Osteria is called Capannaccia, or by some name equivalent to it. Here roads turn off to the right, to Passerano, to Zagarolo, and to Gallicano, and another ancient road runs to Prjeneste ; the latter was formerly the only car- riage-way from Querquetula to Tibur, on account of the many deep and precipitous ravines intervening in the direct line. At about the fifth mile from the Osa, after an as- cent, is the Arco di Olevano cut through the rock ; and just before it, is a road to Poli on the right, which has lately been repaired, and is passable in a carriage. After a descent is a pretty river, which may be the Yeresis ; and near San A'^ittorino, distant six miles from the Osa, is another river, with a deep glen. (^Vide Arco di Olevano.) In order to arrive at Tivoli, a carriage must be care- fully lifted up a ledge of rock about two feet six inches high, after the first ascent from the river, which we have supposed the Yeresis ; then turning to the left, a drive of about two miles over a high and verdant table-land, brings the traveller out into the ancient road from Gabii, at two miles from the Osa. 268 GAB By this road, (which must liave been that to the villa of the Emperor Hadrian,) the distance from the Osa to Tivoli is onlj eight miles ; but by the circuit by the Arco di Olevano it is ten. Even here the ancient road to Tibur can seldom l^e followed ; a carriage must take that which leads by the Villa Fede, or Hadriani. At one time the ancient road to Tibur, on this side of the Anio, must have been as much frequented as the A^ia Tiburtina on the other ; and we have accordingly seen, in the account of Collatia, that one author, Pliny, calls it a Tiburtine AVay. But to return to Gabii : — it will be seen by refer- ence to the Map, that considered with regard to Rome, one road (the Via Gabina) would have served as Avell as three, for a communication with Collatia*, Gabii, and Labicum ; it is therefore evident that the Yia Labicana, the Gabina, and the Collatina, must have existed as separate and independent roads, previous to the reduc- tion of the cities in the neighbourhood, under one com- mon rule, by the conquests of Rome. It is also clear that a road must have existed in early times between Gabii and Tibur. Between Gabii and the Osteria di Finocchio, distant about two miles, and the hill with the lake near Labicum or Colonna, commonly called that of Regillus, at the same distance, is a flat and marshy plain, now in a course of draining and cultivation, by order of the pro- prietor. Prince Borghese. The least pure of the Roman aqueducts seems to have been supplied by the Avaters of this marsh. The materials of the walls of Gabii were probably transported at different times to Rome, to be employed in the erection of houses and temples ; and the rocks seem to have been quarried for the same puqDOse. The name of Lacus Burranus has been applied to the lake of Gabii, but it does not appear on what authority. The Dictionary della Crusca gives, as the interpretation ['''■ This is on the supposition that Collatia Avas at Castel deU'Osa, but Sir W. Gell himself has given very sufficiciTt reasons to show that this could not be the case. (Vide Collatia.) — E. B.j GAL 269 of Biirranua, '' Locus asper et profundus sub rupibus :" so tliat the name might be descriptive of tlie spot, rather than intended as a proper name. Galeria; Galera; Carei^; Care^. Galeria was a small Etruscan city, beautifully situ- ated on a little detached hill overlooking the valley of the Arrone, at about sixteen miles from Rome, and on the road to Bracciano. It may be seen from near the Osteria del Fosso, but the beauties of the spot are not to be distinguished without a near approach. Turning to the left after the Fosso, a path descends through a glen into a verdant meadow, bounded by high and well wooded banks, with a brook into which a foun- tain rushes from below the path. A deserted church on the left, and a house on the right, exhibit the first signs of the present desolation of the place. Continu- ing along the meadow, the glens of the Arrone and the Fosso unite. Nearer to Galera the road again descends ; on the right are some trees and rocks, and on the left a neglected fountain and the Arrone. A bridge of one arch crosses the deep bed of this river. From the stream below the bridge, the church and the houses present a most picturesque appearance. The path then ascends from the river ; and on the right, part of the ancient wall of the city of Galeria, or Careiae, flanks the road. The blocks are of tufo, and smaller in size than usual. Galera is not ill built, but is without a single inha- bitant. The church alone is in repair: the houses are fast decaying. Perhaps no place exists in a peaceful country, which presents so awful an aspect as Galera, which, not long ago, had a population of 90 inhabitants. At the door of the church are some ancient marbles, with inscriptions. In the year 1830, it was proposed to re-people the place ; but up to the present time this design has not been carried into effect, probably in consequence of the disturbed state of the country. The green valley of the Arrone, and its pretty and wooded banks, present 270 GEN the most agreeable prospects ; but the solitude of a place so recently inhabited is exceedingly striking. It is well worth visiting. A stranger from a distant village conducted the collector of the details for this work; all that he knew was that malaria and oppression were the reputed causes of the desertion of Galera. I^ot far to the eastward is the convent of Santa Maria in Celsano, prettily situated in the midst of a cultivated and fertile country. The rocks near Galera, which rise on each side of the little valley of the Arrone, have in many parts been excavated into sepulchral chambers like those observed near the other cities of Etruria. Gavignano. A place with one hundi*ed and thirty-seven inha- bitants, in that part of Sabina lying beyond Cures and opposite to Mount Soracte. Genaro, Monte. This mountain is part of the chain, of which the Mons Lucretilis of Horace formed a portion, or perhaps the Lucretilis itself. It has been supposed one of the Kepavvioi of Dionysius, but its distance does not at all agree with that given by this writer, who places the Ceraunian mountains, near Vesbola, only eighty stadia from Eeate. It is the highest of the mountains sur- rounding the Campagna di Roma, except that of Gua- dagnolo. Boscowich, who was employed with Le Maire in making trigonometrical observations in this country, ascended Mt. Genaro three times, and has given in Latin a long and exaggerated description of the diffi- culties and dangers encountered in the ascent. Its distance from St. Peter's, according to Boscowich, is tAventy-two miles, nine hundred and thirty-five paces; and from his pillar at Frattocchie more than twenty-four miles. Its perpendicular height he fixes at eight-hun- dred and thirty-seven paces ; (six hundred and fifty- GEN 271 four toises and a half, or four thousand one hundred and eighty-five feet.) There are several ways of ascending this mountain. Of these one is on the side of Palombara, and is short but steep ; another ascends from the valley of Licenza and Civitella, and is not difficult; and there is a third ascent from Tivoli by the village of Santo Polo*, at the back of the mountain usually recognized as Mt. Catillus — which as far as the village is perfectly practicable. Beyond Santo Polo, toward the summit of Mt. Genaro, there is an unfrequented path running in the direction of Rocca Griovane; which, after passing a fountain, is quitted for a woodman's track, winding to the left through the forest, and leading to the foot of a bold and insulated mass of limestone rock, called La Morra. This rock is of so remarkable a shape, that it is distinguishable from almost every part of the plain, and even from Rome itself, so that it was of great use in the triangulation for the Map ; the apices, however, were not verified from its summit, on account of the difficulty of the ascent. In this part of the mountain some specimens of a beautiful orange-coloured lily were observed, perhaps that called the day lily, (HemerocalUs,^ which grows wild only in elevated situations. There are several romantic spots which have been chosen by the goatherds [* Santo Polo, a village occupying a very lofty and commanding situation, is the property of the Borghose family, who have an un- tenanted castellated mansion there, surrounded by the houses of the peasantry. It is one of the most picturesque villages in Italy, and the air is esteemed remarkably salubrious, the place being at a considerable elevation above the plain. Its inhabitants are one thousand two hun- dred and seventy, an extraordinary number for such an inconvenient situation. The mountain villages of Italy are often the most populous ; perhaps, as is the case in eastern countries, it is that they are subject to less change, and possibly to less oppression than places of more easy access. These Roman villages, however, seem never to emerge from the most squalid poverty. From Santo Polo there is a very rough path down to La Marcellina; and to the left of the path, on a summit of Monte Peschiavatore, a house called Castelluccio, or Castellaccio, now almost in ruins ; there is some cultivated ground about it, but the house occupies a very inacces- sible situation. — E.B.] 272 GEN and drovers, either as alFording rctreat.s among the rocks from the storm, or as retaining small pools for the use of their cattle during- the summer. In these upper regions every trace of path is lost; and though the ascent is in no part disagreeably steep, there is a long and tedious climb to a meadow called Pratonc — where the scenery entirely changes, and an agreeable valley extends between two summits of the mountain. The Pratone producing, on account of its great ele- vation, grass and moisture, even in the month of July, is the resort of many herds of oxen and droves of horses, and its little chapel is the scene of an annual festivity. The meadow is of an oval form, about a mile and a half in length, and the bordering heights are prettily wooded; the summit nearest to the Roman plain is covered with an open grove. Through this is an ascent, by no means dithcult, to a spot where the vegetation ceases; and at a short distance beyond, a large tumulus, or heap of stones, (artificially piled to- gether on the highest peak of the mountain, and sur- mounted by the remains of a cross,) forms the pointed summit of Monte Genaro, which is seen from Rome, and the whole of the subjacent country. In another part of the mountain is an inscription, which gives the name of Yena Scritta to the rock on which it is found. It is in large characters, and much defaced. The letters are — postmarre. On the neigh- bouring Monte Pennecchio, is inscribed jovi cacvnno; which, in the language of the rustics of the place, may have been instead of Cacumini. The very highest peak may possibly have been de- dicated to Mercury; for the heap of stones mentioned above, was called Cumulus Mercurialis, and 'Epjj.aios Ao(f)o