Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 . https://archive.org/details/handbookfortrave00john_22 - / HANDBOOK FOB TBAVELLERS IN SOUTHERN ITALY. LONDON : PRINTED BV W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN ■' ■ ■ || ; ' "V | ^ IS" || . '' ' • ;; ' . %/. ' ■ .’fig SOUTHERN ITALY ; BEING A GUIDE FOR THE CONTINENTAL PORTION OF THE KINGDOM OF THE TWO SICILIES. WITH A TRAVELLING MAP AND PLANS. THIRD EDITION, ENTIRELY REVISED AND CORRECTED ON THE SPOT. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMAELE STREET. PARIS: GALIGNANI & CO.; STASSIN & XAVIER. FLORENCE: GOODBAN. ROME: PIALE ; SPITHOVER; GALLARINI. NAPLES : DETKEN. 1858. The right of Translation is reserved. THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS : — Germany , Holland , and Belgium. A I X-LA- 1 , . MAV _, D CHAPELLEj >• A. MAYER. AMSTERDAM . J. MULLER. — W. KIR- BERGER. — VAN BAK- KENESS. ANTWERP . MAX. KORNICKER. BADEN-BADEN D. R. MARX. BERLIN . . A. DUNCKER. BRUSSELS . MUQUARDT. — KIESSLING & CO.— FROMENT. CARLSRUHE . A. BIELEFELD. COBLENTZ . BAEDEKER. COLOGNE . . A. BAEDEKER.— E1SEN. DRESDEN . ARNOLD. FRANKFURT . C. JUGEL. GRATZ . . DAMIAN & SORGE. THE HAGUE . VAN STOCKUM. HAMBURG . PERTHES, BESSER & MAUKE. HEIDELBERG. MOHR. KISSINGEN C. JUGEL. LEIPZIG . F. FLEISCHER.— WEIGEL. LUXEMBOURG BUCK. MANNHEIM . ARTARIA & FONTAINE. MAYENCE VON ZABERN. MUNICH . L1TERARISCH - A RTIS'l I- SCHE ANSTALT — I. PALM. NURNBERG SCHRAG. PEST HARTLEBEN.— G. HECKENAST. PRAGUE . CALVE. ROTTERDAM . PETRI.— KRAMERS. j STUTTGART . P. NEFF. TRIESTE . MUNSTER. VIENNA . C. GEROLD — BRAUMULLER.— STERNICKEL. WIESBADEN . C. JUGEL-— C.W.KREIDEL. Switzerland. BASLE . . SCHWEIGHAUSER. — NEU- KIRCH. BERN . . DALP, HUBER, & CO. COIRE . . GRUBENMANN. CONSTANCE. . MECK. ST. GALLEN . HUBER. GENEVA. . KESSMANN.— MONROE — DESROGIS. — CHERBU- LIEZ. — GEX. ■ LAUSANNE . HIGNOU & CO.— WEBER. LUCERNE . F. KAISER. SCHAFFHAUSEN HURTER. SOLEURE . . j E nT . ZURICH . . ll. FUSSLI & CO.-MEYER & ZELLER. H. F. LEIJTHOLD, POST- STRASSE. BOLOGNA FLORENCE GENOA LEGHORN LUCCA MANTUA . MILAN MODENA . NAPLES . NICE . PALERMO . Italy. M. RUSCONI. GOODBAN. ANTOINE BEUF. M AZZAJOLI. F. BARON. NEGRETTI. ARTAIUA & SON.— dumolard FRERES.— MOLINA R I.— LAINGER.— GIUS. VA I.LARDI. — MEI- NERS & SON. VINCENZI & ROSSI. DETKEN. VISCONTI.— GIRAUD. CHARLES BEUF. PARMA PISA . PERUGIA . ROME SIENA TRIESTE . TURIN VENICE . VERONA . . J. ZANGHIERI. . NISTRI.— JOS. VANNUCCHI. . VINCENZ. BARTELLI. . GALLAR INI. — SPIT HOVER — PI A LE. — CUCCIONI. . ONORATO PORRI. . HERMAN F. MUNSTER.— . GIANNINI & FIORE— MAGG1. — MARIETTI. — BOCCA FRERES. . HERMAN F. MUNSTER — MEINERS. . H. F. MUNSTER. — MEI- NERS. AMIENS . ANGERS . AV RANCHES . BAYONNE . BORDEAUX BOULOGNE BREST CAEN . CALAIS DIEPPE . DINANT . DOUAI DUNKERQUE . GRENOBLE HAVRE LILLE LYONS MARSEILLES . METZ . MONTPELLIER MADRID . ST. PETERS- BUKGH France. CARON. BA BASSE'. AN FRAY. JAYMEBON. CHAUMAS. WATEL.— MERRIDEW. HEBERT. VILLENEUVE. R1GAUX CAUX. MARAIS. COSTE. J ACQUA RT.— LEM A LE. LEYSCHOCHART. VEI.LOT ET COMP. COCHARD. -BOURDIGNON. — FOUCHER. VANACKERE.— BF.'G HIN. GIBERTON & BRUN.— AYNE' FILS. MADAME CAMOIN. WARiON. LEVALLE. NANCY NANTES . ORLEANS . PARIS PAU . PERPIGNAN REIMS ROCHEFORT ROUEN ST. ETIENNE ST. MALO . ST. QUENTIN STRASBOURG TOULON . TOULOUSE TOURS TROYES . Spain. MONIER. I GIBRALTAR Russia. ISSAKOFF— N. ISSAKOFF.— I MOSCOW . BELLIZARD. | ODESSA . GONET. GUE'RAUD.— FOREST A INE'. GATINEAU.— PESTY. GALIGNANL— STASSIN ET XAVIER AUG. BASSY— LAFON. JULIA FRERES. BRISSART B1NET. BOUCARD. LEBRUMENT. DELARUE. HUE. DOLOY. TREUTTEL ET WURTZ- GRUCKER. MONGE ET VILLAMUS. H. LEBON.— GIMET. COUSTU1UER. LALOY. ROWSWELL. W. GAUTIER. VII.LIETTY. Malta. Ionian Islands. MUIR. CORFU. . J. W. TAYLOR. Constantinople. Greece. WICK. ATHENS. A. NAST. PREFACE. I This volume is intended as a Guide to the Continental portion of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, and that part of the Papal States which lies between Rome and the Neapolitan frontier. The section containing the description of the Capital and its environs, has been carefully revised very recently on the spot by a friend of the Publisher, as well as the two principal Routes between Rome and Naples, the most important of all for the great majority of Travellers in Southern Italy. Fully aware of the liability to error inseparable from a work of this kind, and of the changes which often take place in the state of the roads and of the hotels, the Publisher requests all those who use this book to favour him with corrections of any mistakes, or omissions they may detect, or with any new information by which the Handbook can be rendered more useful to his travelling countrymen. A Handbook for Travellers in the Island of Sicily is now in the press, after many years of careful preparation. London , Aug. 20, 1858. CONTENTS. PAGE Preface ......... v List of Routes ........ vii Alphabetical List of Rides and Excursions from Naples . viii Introduction . . . . . . . . xi Preliminary Information ...... xlv Routes ......... 1 Description of Naples . . . . . . . 64 Environs of Naples . . . . . . .160 Excursions from Naples . . . . . .168 Routes continued . . . . . . .321 393 Index LIST OF ROUTES, (To facilitate reference, the names are printed in italics in those Routes under which they are fully described.) ROUTE PAGE 140. Borne to Naples, byAlbano, Vel- letri, the Pontine Marshes , Terracina , Fondi, Mo l a di Gaeta, Capua, and Aversa ; with excursions to Cora, Gaeta, the Ponza islands, and Roccamonjina ... 2 141. Rome to Naples, by Valmontone, Ferentino, Frosinone, Ce- prano, S. Germano, Teano , and Capua ; with excursions to Anagni, Alatri, CoLle- pardo , Aquino, Pontecorvo, and Montecasino . . .21 142. Terni to Naples, by Rieti , Civita Fhtcale, Antrodoco, Aquila, Popoli, Solmona, Isernia, Venafro , and Ca- pua; with excursions to Leonessa, Norcia, Amatrice, S'. Vittorino, the Cicolano, the castle of Petrella, the lake of Scanno, Barrea, Al - fidena, and La Meta . . 33 143. Ancona to Naples, by Porto di Fermo, Giulia Nuova, Pescara, Chieti , Popoli, Solmona, Isernia, and Vena- fro ; with excursions to As- coli, Teramo , Civitella del Tronto, Gran Sasso, Atri, Ortona, Lanciano, Vasto, and the Maiella .... 47 144. Naples to Rome, by S. Germano, Arce, Isola, Sora, the valley of Roveto,Avezzano, Taglia- cozzo, Carsoli, and Tivoli ; with excursions to Arpino, Atina, and Celano, and an account of Lake Fucino . 53 ROUTE PAGE Naples 64 General Topography . . .71 Historical do 72 Population 75 Climate 75 Antiquities 76 Gates 78 Ports 78 Bridges 79 Castles 79 Larghi and Fountains . .83 Aqueducts 84 Principal Streets, &c. . . .85 Theatres 86 Festivals 88 Churches 90 Cemeteries 117 Colleges and Scientific Insti- tutions 118 Hospitals 120 Museo Borbonico , . . .121 Ancient Frescoes . . . .124 Mosaics 126 Egyptian gallery . . . .126 Sculpture do. ..... 127 Inscriptions 132 Bronzes 134 Cinquecento collection . . . 136 Glasses 136 Pottery 137 Reserved cabinet . . . .137 Papyri 137 Gems 138 Medals .140 Small Bronzes 140 Vases 142 Paintings— Italian schools . . . .144 Capi d’Opera 145 Byzantine, Neapolitan, and other Italian schools . . 148 Libraries 150 Archives 152 Royal Palaces 153 Private Palaces and Museums 155 Villas 159 viii LIST OF ROUTES. Rides and Excursions from Naples: Environs. PAGE Antignano 166 Bagnoli 164 Camaldoli 167 Capodimonte 167 Fuorigrotta . 163 Grotta di Pozzuoli 160 Grotta di Posilipo 166 Nisid a 166 Pianura 163 Poggio Reale 168 Posilipo, Strada Nuova of 164 Virgil’s Tomb 161 Vomero 166 South-Eastern District. Agerola 257 Agropoli 272 Amalfi 248 Angri 260 Atrani 257 Campanella, Punta della . . 243, 249 Capo d’Orso 260 Capri .244 Carotto 239 Castellammare .234 Cava 262 Cetara 260 Conca 256 Ercliia 260 Furore 256 Gragnano 237 Herculaneum 188 Lettere . . . 237 Licosa 272 Maiori 259 Massa Lubrense 243 Meta 239 Minori 259 Nocera 261 Nola 274 Psestum . 267 Pagani 261 Palinuro 273 Palma 274 / Piano di Sorrento 238 Policastro 273 Pompeii 193 Portici 169 Positano 256 Ravello 258 Resina 169 Salerno 265 Santangelo, Monte 237 Sarno 274 Scafati 260 Scala 257 Sorrento 239 Torre Annunziata 192 Torre del Greco 192 Tramonti 249 Vallo 273 Vesuvius 169 Vettica 256 Vico 238 Vietri 264 PAG® Western District. Agnano, Lake of 307 Arco Felice 302 Astroni . 308 Avernus, Lake of 289 Bacoli. 295 Baise 293 Cento Camerelle 296 Cumse 300 Elysian Fields 299 Fusaro, Lake of 299 Grotta del Cane 307 Grotta Dragonara 298 Grotta Giulia 29 L Ischia 309 Licola, Lake of 304 Liternum 304 Lucrinus, Lake 292 Mare Morto 297 Miliscola 298 Misenum 298 Monte Barbaro 306 Monte Nuovo 288 Monti Leucogei 287 Nerone, Stufe di ..... 293 Patria, Lake of 306 Pisciarelli 287 Piscina Mirabilis 296 Pozzuoli 2 78 Procida 308 Sibyl’s Cave 301 Solfatara 287 Northern District. Acerra 317 Alife 319 Caiazzo 319 Cancello 317 Carditello 321 Casalnuovo 317 Caserta 318 Maddaloni 317 Matese 319 Piedimonte 319 Ponte della Valle ' 318 Sta. Maria 320 ROUTE 145. Naples to Cctmpobasso and Larino, by Maddaloni and Guardi a Sanframondi ; with excursions to S. Agata de' Goti, Telese, Cerreto , and Boviano 321 146. Naples to Benevento, by Arienzo, the Caudine Forks (?), and Monte Sarchio .... 325 147. Avellino to Salerno, by the Mercato di Sanseverino and Baronissi ; with excursions to Solofra, Serino, and Penta 329 148. Naples to Otranto , through Avellino , Ariano, Foggia, Cerignola , Canosa, B arietta, LIST OF ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE Trani, Molfetta , Bari , Ta- ranto, Manduria , and Lecce ; with excursions to the Lake of Amsanctus, Bovino, Ascoli, Troia, Lucera, Sansevero, Monte S. Angelo , Ruvo, Terlizzi , Bitonto, Franca- villa , and Oria .... 330 149. Bari to Brindisi , by Mola, Polignano , Monopoli , and Ostuni 354 1 50. Lecce to Gallipoli ; with ex- cursions to Nardo and Ga- latina 356 151. Naples to Melji, by Maro, Atella, and Rionero ; with excursions to Monte Vulture , Venosa, and Lavello . .357 152. Naples to Potenza . . . 362 153. Potenza to Bari, through Gravina, Altamura , and Grumo ...... 363 154. Potenza to Taranto, through Matera and Castellaneta . 364 155. Naples to Reggio, by Eboli , the Val di Diano, Lago- ROUTE _ _ PAGE negro, Castrovillari, Cassano, Cosenza , Tiriolo , Maida , Monteleone, Tropea, Palmi , Bagnara , and Scilla ; with excursions to Paola and the W. coast, the Sila, Catan- zaro, JNicastro, S. Stefano del Bosco, Pentedattilo, and Bova 364 156. Taranto to Castrovillari, by the sites of Metapontum and Heracleia 384 157. Castrovillari to Catanzaro, by Cassano, the sites of Sybaris and Thurii, Corigliano, Ros- sano, Cariati, Strongoli, Co- trone (Crotona), and Cutro . 386 1 58. Catanzaro to Reggio, round by the E. coast , through Squil- lace, Gerace, the site of Locri Epizephyrii, Roccella, Ar~ dore, and Capo Spartivento ; with excursions to Casal- nuovo, Stilo, and S. Maria de’ Polsi .389 DIRECTIONS TO BINDER. Plan of Naples Map of Environs of Naples .. Plan of Pompeii Map of South Italy and Naples to face 9 * 9 9 Page 64 160 193 at the end. INTRODUCTION. 1 . General Topography. — 2 . Classical Topography. — 3. Government . — 4. Justice . — 5. Revenue . — 6 . Army and Navy. — 7. Ecclesiastical Esta- blishment. — 8. Education. — 9. Agriculture. — 10, Commerce and Manu- factures. — 11. Fisheries. — 12. Ancient Architecture and Art. — 13. Mediaeval and Modern Architecture . — 14. Sculpture. — 15. Painting . — 16. Books . — 17. Maps. — 18. Chronological Tables. 1. General Topography. The kingdom of Naples, or the continental portion of the kingdom of the Two Sicilies, known by the official name of the Dominj di qua del Faro, comprises the S. and the most beautiful half of the Italian peninsula, bounded on the N.W. by the Papal States, on the N.E. by the Adriatic, on the S.E. by the Ionian, and on the W. by the Mediter- ranean sea. In ancient times the Tiber was the boundary between Upper and Lower Italy. The acquisitions of the Holy See in the middle ages changed the ancient landmarks, and transferred a portion of Southern Italy to the Popes. The frontier-line which now divides the kingdom of Naples from the Papal States, with few trifling exceptions, is the same as it was at the establishment of the monarchy by the Normans in 1130. It commences on the Adriatic at the N. bank of the Tronto, and terminates on the shore of the Mediterranean, about 2 m. E. of Terracina. The length of the line of frontier, following its numerous windings, is about 210 m. ; the. direct distance is not more than 115. The area included within these limits is estimated at about 31,595 English square miles. The length of the kingdom, measured along the curved line of the chain of the Apennines, from the Tronto to the Capo Spartivento, is 350 m. The breadth varies considerably. Erom the mouth of the Garigliano in the Bay of Gaeta, to the mouth of the Trigno on the Adriatic, it is 70 m., and about the same from Salerno to the mouth of the Carapelle ; from Capo di Licosa to Bari 112 m., and to Brindisi 150 ; from the shore N. of Paola to S. of the mouth of the Crati it is 29 m., and only 16 between the Gulfs of Sant’ Eufemia and of Squillace. The chain of the Apennines runs through the centre of the kingdom. Their highest peaks are in the Abruzzi, where the Monte Como , or Gran Sasso d^Italia, between Teramo and Aquila, is 10,154 English ft. above the sea, and Monte Amaro , the highest peak of the Miiiella, is 9130 ft. 5 in the Terra di Lavoro, the Monte Mileto, the highest peak of xii INTRODUCTION".— GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. the Matese, 6745 ft. ; in Basilicata, Monte Dolcedorme, 6875 ft. ; and ii Calabria, Monte Cocuzzo , 5620 ft., and Montalto , the culminating point of the Aspromonte, 4380 ft. The principal rivers are, — on the W. coast the Liris or Garigliano, the Volturno, and the Sele. On the Adriatic, the Tronto, the Vomano, the Pescara , the Sangro, the Trigno , the Biferno , the Fortore, and the Ofanto. On the Ionian sea, the Bradano, the Basento, the Agri, the Sinno, and the Grati. The inconsiderable amount of tide renders the mouths of these rivers useless as harbours, except for very small vessels. The principal harbours and roadsteads frequented by shipping are,— on the W. coast, Gaeta, Naples, Castellammare, Baise, and the little Bay of Tropea ; on the Ionian sea, Taranto and Gallipoli ; on the coast of the Adriatic, Otranto and Brindisi, both greatly deteriorated by accumu- lations of sand, Bari, Molfetta, Bisceglie, Trani, Barletta, Manfredonia, Termoli, Ortona, and Pescara; but most of the latter are now only accessible to vessels of small tonnage. There are few lakes. The largest are, — the Lago Fucino or Cetane in Abruzzo, the Lago di Fondi in Terra di Lavoro, the Lago Ijesina and Lago di Salpi in Capitanata, and the small volcanic lakes of Agnano , Avernus, &c., near Naples. The principal islands are the Ponza group off the Bay of Gaeta ; Ischia , Procida , and Capri in the Bay of Naples ; the Isola di Dino in the Gulf of Policastro ; and the Isole Tremiti in the Adriatic. The kingdom is divided into 15 provinces, of which Basilicata and Capitanata are the largest, and Abruzzo Citra and the Provincia di Napoli the smallest. The population bears no proportion to the super- ficial extent of each province, the natural conformation of the country and various local circumstances combining to increase it in some and to diminish it in others. The number of inhabitants was estimated in 1788 at 4,815,182; on the 1st Jan. 1853, they amounted to 6,843,355, of whom 3,368,008 were males, and 3,475,347 were females. In the returns for 1840, when the entire population was 6,113,259, the following classi- fication of the trades and professions of the adult population is given : — 29,783 secular clergymen ; 12,751 monks ; 10,449 nuns ; 25,572 civil and military officers ; 5981 persons engaged in public instruction ; 7920 lawyers ; 15,906 physicians ; 12,666 merchants ; 13,476 artists ; 536,320 artisans ; 1,823,080 agriculturists ; 70,970 shepherds ; and 31,190 seamen. By the same returns it appears that the births in 1 839 amounted to 226,087, viz. 116,142 boys and 109,945 girls ; and the deaths to 186,893, viz. 96,273 men and 90,620 women. Among the latter were 37 persons upwards of 100 years of age — 15 men and 22 women. The number of foundlings received in 1850 in the hospitals of the kingdom, exclusive of Sicily, amounted to 2791 boys and 2639 girls. The deaths in the same hospitals during the year amounted to 1334 boys and 1319 girls. The annexed table shows the distribution of the population, on the 1st Jan. 1853, over the several provinces, in the order according to their superficial extent, with the chief towns of each, and the number of Distretti into which they are divided. When the provincial courts are not held in the capital, the town in which they are is printed in italics. INTRODUCTION. — GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. Province. Districts. Population. BASILICATA. POTENZA. Potenza. Melfi. 1 Matera. 1 Lagonegro. \ | 518,333 CAPITANATA. Foggia. Lucera. Foggia. | Sansevero. Bovino. 329,541 TERRA D’ OTRANTO. Lecce. Lecce. ] Gallipoli. | Brindisi. j Taranto. J j> 427,275 PRINCIPATO CITRA. Salerno. Salerno. Vallo. Sala. j Campagna. J [ 574,550 TERRA DI LAYORO. Caserta. Santamaria. Caserta. Piedimonte. Sora. Gaeta. Nola. J ► 776,287 ABRUZZO ULTERIORE Aquila. II. Aquila. Civita Ducale. | Avezzano. j Solmona. J | 331,331 ABRUZZO CITERIORE. Chieti. Chieti. j Lanciano. Vasto. t 319,677 CALABRIA CITRA. COSENZA. Cosenza. Castrovillari. | Paola. I Rossano. J | 450,935 TERRA DI BARI. Bari. Trani. Bari. j Barletta. Altamura. [ 331,512 PRINCIPATO ULTRA. Avellino. Avellino. j S. Angelo de’Lombardi. Ariano. 1 393,874 CALABRIA ULTRA II. Catanzaro. Catanzaro. Gerace. | Cotrone. j Nicastro. J | 388,485 CALABRIA ULTRA I. Reggio. Reggio. 1 Palmi. ' | Monteleone. j . 327,620 MOLISE or SANNIO. Campobasso. Campobasso. Larino. Isernia. | 376,750 xiii XIV INTRODUCTION. — CLASSICAL TOPOGRAPHY. Province. Districts. Population. ABRUZZO ULTRA I. Teramo. Teramo. | Civita di Penne. J [ 236,931 NAPOLI. Napoli. Napoli. Castellammare. | Pozzuoli. I Casoria. ' J | 860,252 15 53 6,843,355 2. Classical Topography. There is no country in Europe whose population is composed of so great a variety of races as the kingdom of Naples. These races were never extinguished or absorbed by the conquests of Rome, or by the political changes of the middle ages. In the capital there has always been a mixture of many nations ; but in the provinces we still find the de- scendants of the Marsi, the Samnites, the Bruttii, the Lucanians, the Calabri, the Greeks, and other races of antiquity. The wars of these tribes with Rome thinned their numbers, and deprived them of their independence, but did not destroy their nationality. Even the Latin colonies planted among them failed to effect more than a temporary fusion. Long after the allied states had compelled Rome to admit them to the rights of citizenship, their national customs were regarded with curiosity by the Roman men of letters ; and the most striking proofs which we possess that their ancient habits were never extinguished are to be found in the poets and historians of the empire. The Greeks resisted even more successfully all the efforts of Rome to amalgamate them with her own people. When the Samnite and the Oscan had become lost as spoken languages, Greek remained the language of the coasts, and survived the downfall of the Roman empire. It appears that when the inhabitants of the Greek cities of Apulia found it necessary for the purposes of trade to speak Latin, they still used their native tongue in their intercourse with each other, a fact which explains the epithet bilingues, applied by the Romans to the citizens of Canusium. During the Byzantine rule the kingdom received the greatest infusion of foreign blood and foreign habits since the period of the ancient colonisation ; but these Greek settlements were confined chiefly to the coasts of Apulia and to certain districts of Calabria. Such were the circumstances of the Neapolitan- provinces when they were invaded b^the Barbarians of the North. These tribes overran the country without occupying it. The Lombards, who followed, left but little impression on the national character. The Normans, by the foundation of the existing monarchy on the basis of feudal institutions, amalgamated the mixed races into one people without destroying their distinctive features. Hence we find that amidst all the changes of dynasty, from the Norman conquest fco our own times, the varied elements of the population have retained the national character, the domestic habits, the amusements, and even in some instances the language of the ancient races they are descended from. In the INTRODUCTION. — CLASSICAL TOPOGRAPHY. XV neighbourhood of the Lake of Celano the traveller will find the descendants of the Marsi, still known for their skill as serpent- charmers, as they were in the time of "Virgil. In the neighbour- hood of the Pelasgic cities he will find the Greek costumes still worn as gracefully by the female peasantry as on the figures which adorn the vases of Magna Grsecia. In many of the cities of Greek origin on the coast he will see the hair of the young maiden coiled as on the statues of the' Grecian sculptors. In Apulia and in Calabria he will frequently find articles of costume of which he will recognise the pro- totypes in the bas-reliefs and paintings of Pompeii and Herculaneum. At Naples he will observe the Mimica of the Greeks still in use, as the unspoken but expressive language of the great mass of the people. At Ischia and Procida he will see the national dance performed as of old to the sound of the timbrel, and in Greek costumes. In the agricultural districts, at a distance from the capital, he will find im- plements as primitive and prejudices as inveterate as those which characterised the farmer of Roman times. In all the ports of the S. coast he will recognise in the Phrygian cap and the capote of the sailors the patterns represented in the paintings of the Pompeii taverns. In some districts he will find the Greek and in others the Latin element predominating in the language of the peasantry ; in others he will be struck by the prevalence of Oscan words. The great festival of Monte Vergine will remind him of the Dionysiac procession ; and half a century has scarcely passed since the remnants of the worship of Priapus were extirpated from Isernia. We shall now take a brief and rapid survey of the ancient geography of the country. Beginning with the northern provinces, two of the Abruzzi formed portions of countries which are now divided between Naples and the Papal States. — Abruzzo Ultra I. in its upper portion formed part of Picenum , whose territory extended as far N. as Ancona, and whose capital, Asculum Picenum , still bears the name of Ascoli. The central portion of the province was the country of the Prcetutii, whose capital, Interamna Prcetutiana , is the modern Teramo. The lower districts be- tween the Vomanus and the Aternus were inhabited by the Vestini , whose capital, Pinna , is the modern Civita diPenne. Abruzzo Ultra II. includes part of Sabina and Samnium. In the Sabine portion the prin- cipal city was Amiternum , of which ruins still exist at San Vittorino. The central district was inhabited by the Marsi. Within their territory was the Lacus Fucinus and Alba Fucensis. In the valley of the Imele and the Salto, in what is now the Cicolano district, were the cities of the Aborigines and Arcadian Pelasgi , described by Dionysius of Halicar- nassus as in ruins and deserted in his day. Between the E. shore of the Fucinus and the mountains of Maiella was the territory of the Pe~ ligni, whose chief cities were Corfinium and Sulmo. Abruzzo Citra comprises the territory of the Marrucini and Frentani. Their capital, Teate , is the modern Chieti. The Frentani occupied that portion of the province which lay between the Sagrus and the Fronto. Their territory therefore included the entire coast of the present province of Molise and part of Capitanata. Molise, sometimes called Sannio, in comme- moration of the Samnite races which constitute the bulk of its popu- lation, comprises that portion of the territory of the Frentarci , in XVi INTRODUCTION - . — CLASSICAL TOPOGRAPHY. which their capital, Larinum , was situated. The W. districts of Mo- lise were occupied by the Caraceni and the Pentri, whose cities of Aufidena and AEsernia still bear the names of Alfidena and Isernia. Terra di Lavoro, extending from the Liris to the range of mountains which bounds the Gulf of Naples on the E., includes the greater part of Campania Felix. The S. limit of that territory was the Silarus , now the Sele, near Psestum ; but the modern province is bounded by the Sarno, the ancient Sarnus, on whose W. bank Pompeii was situated. Between the frontier at Terracina and the hills beyond the Liris, the Terra di Lavoro includes a part of the Volscian territory. In that district, watered by the Liris and Fibrenus, were Sora and Arpinum. Provincia di Napoli includes all the maritime district of Campania , from the Lago di Patria, near the site of Liternum , to the Mons Lactarius, now Monte Sanf Angelo. Principato Ultra comprises the territory of the Hirpini, one of the most powerful of the Samnite tribes. Principato Citra includes the E. portion of Campania, which was occupied by the Picentini, and extended from the Sarnus to the Silarus, and that district of Lucania which was comprised within the windings of the latter river from its source to the sea. It embraced the coast from Psestum to Policastro, including the Posidium Promontorium, now Punta della Licosa , and the Promontorium Palinurum. The principal cities of the Picentini were Nuceria and Salernum, which have very nearly preserved their ancient names as Nocera and Salerno. In Lu- cania, within the limits of this province, the chief cities were Posidonia, called by the Romans Pcestum ; Velia, or Helia ; Pyrus, or Buxentum, now Policastro ; and Scidros, the modern Sapri. Capitanata, extending from the Fronto ( Fortore ) to the Aufidus ( Ofanto ), occupies that portion of Apulia to which the Greeks gave the name of Apulia Daunia , or “ the parched Apulia.” In the N.E. angle of this province is the isolated promontory of Mons Garganus . — Terra di Bari occupies the S. portion of the Apulian plain, which was distin- guished from the N. by the name of Apulia Peucetia , or “ the Apulia abounding in fir-trees.” This district extended from the Aufidus to the borders of ancient Calabria, which were situated about midway between Barium and Brundusium. Its principal cities were Canusium, Cannae , Bubi , Butuntum , and Gnatia. Many of these places have been made familiar to the scholar by Horace’s account of his journey to Brundusium. — Terra d’ Otranto was Calabria , a term now applied to a different part of the kingdom. The N. district of this country of the Calabri was called Messapia ; the E., Iapygia ; the S., Salen- tina. The principal cities were Brundusium, Rudice, Lupice, or Ly- cium ; Hydruntum, Manduria, TJxentum , Callipolis , and Tarentum . — Basilicata occupies the W. borders of Apulia and the greater part of Lucania , the exceptions being those outlying portions which are com- prised in the provinces of Principato Ultra and Calabria Citra. The principal objects of interest comprised in this province were Venusia, the birthplace of Horace, and the extinct volcano of Mons Vultur. Within the Lucanian frontier, in the province of Basilicata, were Ferentum, Acherontia, Bantia , Potentia, Metapontum , Heraclea, and Sir is . — Calabria Citra occupies the S. portion of Lucania and part INTRODUCTION. CLASSICAL TOPOGRAPHY — GOVERNMENT. xvif of Bruttium , which extended from the Lucanian border to the ex- treme point of Italy. The Bruttii were regarded as one of the most uncivilized races of Italy. Sybaris held them in subjection, but on the destruction of that city they asserted their independence. Ennius tells us that they spoke the Oscan language, but became familiar with the Greek from their continued intercourse with the Greek cities on the coast. The country is now divided into Calabria Citra, Calabria Ultra II., and Calabria Ultra I. Calabria Citra in- cludes that portion of ancient Lucania which lies S. of the modern frontier of Basilicata. Within this territory were Lagaria, Sybaris , and Thurii. Further inland is Consentia , the Bruttian metropolis, the modern Cosenza. The central and S. districts of this province consist of a vast tract of mountain pasturage and forest, which still bears the name of Sila — a tract from which several of the maritime nations of antiquity derived the masts and timber for their fleets. — C alabria Ultra II. commences on the Ionian Sea, N. of the Promontorium Cri- missa , now the Punta delV Alice, and traverses the range of La Sila in a S.W. direction, to the Savuto on the shores of the Mediterranean. The principal objects of classical interest on the Ionian are Petilia , now Strongoli ; Croton , the principal seat of the Pythagorean philosophy ; the Lacinium Promontorium , on which stood the Temple of Juno Lacinia. Scylacceum, now Squillace , gave the name of the Sinus Scylacceus to the modern Gulf of Squillace. On the Mediterranean the principal objects of interest are Terina , founded by Crotona and destroyed by Hannibal, and Hipponium , with its Temple and Grove of Proserpine. — C alabria Ultra I. is the most southern province of the kingdom. The principal objects of classical interest on the Mediterranean coast are Metaurum , now Gioja ; Mamertium , the modern Oppido ; the Cratais, now the Solano ; the classical rock of Scylla, which preserves its name ; Bhegium ; the promontory of Leucopetra , now Capo dell ’ Armi ; and the] river Caicinus, now the Amendolea , which divided the Rhegian from the Locrian territory. On the E. coast, Caulon ; the river Sagra, which witnessed the overthrow of the Crotoniats by the Locrians ; Locri Epi- zephyrii , one of the most ancient cities of Magna Grsecia ; the Zephyrium Promontorium , now Capo di Bruzzano ; and Herculis Promontorium , now Capo Spartivento. 3. Government. The government is an hereditary absolute monarchy. The adminis- tration consists of a Council of state, having some resemblance to our privy council ; a Council of ministers ; and two Consulte, or minor Councils, one for the Continental Kingdom, the other for Sicily. The Council of state, Consiglio di Stato , is composed of an unlimited number of members, who are appointed directly by the king. The meetings of the council are nominally presided over by the king or the heir apparent ; and in their absence the duty is performed by a minis- ter secretary of state, who happens to be also a councillor, and who has received the king’s commission to act as president. This Council INTRODUCTION. — GOVERNMENT. xviii has merely consultative functions, its chief duty being to give an opinion on all projects of law, decrees, and acts of the supreme govern- ment. The Consiglio de ’ Ministri , or Council of ministers, is composed of the ministers secretaries of state, and is presided over by the pre- sident of the council, who is always a member of the Council of state. There are 8 ministers, each called a “ real Segreteria di Stato 1. The president of the council ; 2. The minister of foreign affairs ; 3. Grace and justice; 4. Ecclesiastical affairs ; 5. Interior and police ; 6. Finance; 7. War and marine ; 8. Public works. As in the Council of state, the decisions of the Council of ministers are subject to the veto of the king, and have no force until they have received his sanction. The two Consulte di Stato have simply consultative powers. The consulta for the Continental Kingdom is composed of 16 members ; the consulta for Sicily is composed of 8, each having its respective president. Their duty is to examine and give their opinion ( parere ), either separately or collectively, on such matters as may be referred to them by the king. In all affairs affecting the united kingdoms, the two consulte assemble together. They are then called the Consulta Generate del Regno , and are presided over by one of the two presidents. The provinces have a distinct system of administration. I. For administrative purposes they are arranged in three classes. Each pro- vince is governed by an Intendente appointed directly by the king. He has very extensive powers, being invested with the entire admi- nistration of his province, civil, military, and financial. He is assisted by a secretary -general, and has his own council, called the Consiglio d ’ Intendenza. Each province has also a county council, called Con- siglio Provinciate, composed of members nominated from the landed proprietors of the provinces by the comunal councils hereafter to be described, and chosen by the king from the lists submitted to him. This provincial council assembles once a-year, for a space not exceed- ing 20 days, to examine the accounts of the province, to appoint depu- ties for the administration of the provincial funds, and to recommend local improvements. II. The provinces are divided into districts or distretti. Each distretto is governed by a Sottintendente , who resides at its chief town. He is appointed by the king, on the recommendation of the minister of the interior, and is under the immediate orders of the Intendente, his duty being to promulgate and carry into execution the “ ordinances ” and “ instructions ” of the latter in the district under his charge, and to receive and report on the presentments and petitions submitted to him by the comuni. In every distretto there is a Consiglio Distrettuale , composed of a president and 10 members ; the president is nominated by the minister of the interior, and ap- pointed by the king ; the members are chosen by the king from a list of the local proprietors drawn up by the comunal councils. This dis- trict council meets once a-year, for a space not exceeding 15 days, for the purpose of examining and reporting to the provincial council on all matters of local interest. III. The districts comprehend a certain number of comuni , which are arranged in three classes : 1. those which have a population of 6000 souls or upwards, an ordinary revenue of 5000 ducats per annum, or are the residence of the intendenza, or the seat of the law courts of the province ; 2. those which have a popu- INTRODUCTION. GOVERNMENT JUSTICE. XIX lation of 3000 to 6000 souls ; 3. those which have a population of less than 4000. Each comune is governed by a Sindaco, assisted by two Eletti , and a comunal council called Decurionato. It is one of the most ancient institutions of the kingdom, and it contains the germ of those municipal liberties which have survived all the changes which the king- dom has witnessed since the Roman times. The Sindaco has the management of all the minor affairs of the comune, and the control of the public establishments ; he superintends the registration of births, marriages, and deaths ; and is responsible for the commissariat of the troops quartered in the comune, in the absence of the military commis- sary. He is also the president of the comunal council ; and when there is no justice of the peace he has jurisdiction in minor causes, civil as well as criminal. The Eletti act as his deputies, and as commissioners of police. The Decurionato is composed of not more than 30 members in the comuni of the first class, where 3 are appointed for every thou- sand inhabitants ; in the smaller comuni it is composed of 8 or 10 members, according to the population. The inhabitants at large, in- cluding artisans, landholders, and farmers, are eligible to be members of this council, provided they possess, in the comuni of the first class, a taxable income of 24 ducats per annum, or the practice of one of the liberal professions for 5 years consecutively ; in those of the second and third class, a taxable income of 18 and 12 ducats respectively, the exercise of some profession or trade, or the occupation of a farm of a certain size. The names of the members are selected by ballot ; and, from the lists drawn up, the king nominates the members in the comuni of the first and second class, and the Intendente nominates them in the third class. One- fourth of the members go out annually. At least one-third must be able to read and write, and they cannot deliberate unless two-thirds be present. The Sindaco, and in his absence one of the Eletti, presides over their meetings, which are held once a month. The duty of this comunal council is to fix the local rates, elect the Sindaco and other municipal officers, administer the local revenues subject to the Intendente of the province, and submit to the king the names of the notables and proprietors whom they may consider eligible to be appointed members of the provincial and district councils. 4. Justice. The code of law now in force is that established by Ferdinand I. in 1819, on the basis of the French civil and commercial codes. The attributes of the different courts are defined partly by the organic laws of 1817, and partly by decrees issued in subsequent years. The system bears a great resemblance to that of France. 1. In the provinces each comune, and in Naples each quarter of the city, has a magistrate called the Conciliatore , who acts as umpire to prevent people from going to law for trifling causes, and decides all actions for sums below 6 ducats, without appeal. He is selected by the Decurionato from among the citizens, including ecclesiastics, and XX INTRODUCTION. — JUSTICE. is appointed by the king for 3 years, but is eligible for re-election. 2. Each distretto has a judge called Giudice d’ Istruzione , assisted by a chancellor, both nominated by the king. His duty is to collect evidence against criminals, to investigate all charges of misdemeanour, and to prosecute in the local courts. In Naples these duties are performed by the commissioners of police. 3. The distretti are subdivided into circondari , of which there are 525 in the continental portion of the kingdom. Each circondario has a judge called the Giudice di Circon- dario , appointed by the king, who decides without appeal all civil actions to the amount of 20 ducats, and with appeal to the amount of 300 ducats. He also decides on all infractions of the revenue laws, all minor matters of correctional police, examines and reports upon the evidence on which prisoners are committed for trial for the graver crimes, and has the general control of the police in his circondario. 4. Each province has a civil and a criminal court. The civil court, Tri- bunate Civile , has a president and 3 judges, a royal procurator, and a register called chancellor. In the provinces of Naples and Terra di Lavoro the court is subdivided into several chambers ( camere ), and consists of a larger number of judges. This civil tribunal takes cognizance in the first instance of all civil actions exceeding 300 ducats ; and it is also a court of appeal from the judges of the circondario in all civil actions for sums exceeding 20 ducats, and in all mercantile actions where there is no commercial tribunal in the province. From this civil tribunal there is an appeal to the grand civil court. 5. The criminal court, Gran Corte Criminate, is composed of a president, 6 judges, a procurator- general, and a chancellor, in each province, except in those of Naples and the Terra di Lavoro, where the judges are more numerous. It is a court of first instance in all graver criminal cases, except for military offences. It is also a court of appeal from the judgments of the Giudice di Circondario in matters of correctional police. From their decision there is an appeal to the supreme court of justice. 6. There are 3 commercial courts, Tribunali di Commercio , at Naples, Foggia, and Monteleone. Each of them has a president and 4 judges, chosen from the class of merchants. 7. There are 4 grand civil courts, Gran Corti Civili , for the whole kingdom, which hold their sittings at Naples, Aquila, Trani, and Catanzaro. They are the courts of appeal from the civil and commercial courts. They have each a president, 6 judges, a procurator-general, and a chancellor, except the court of Naples, which is divided into 3 chambers. The jurisdiction of the Naples court embraces the Provincia di Napoli, Terra di Lavoro, Principato Citra and Ultra, Molise, Capitanata, and Basilicata ; that at Aquila over the three Abruzzi ; that of Trani over Bari and Terra d’ Otranto ; and that of Catanzaro over the three Calabrias. 8. The supreme court of justice, Corte Suprema di Giustizia, formerly called the Court of Cassation, is the highest court in the kingdom. It was established in 1809, for the express purpose of revising all errors of law committed by the judges of the inferior courts, and its functions and power were defined by the organic law of 1817. It consists of a president, 2 vice-presidents, 16 judges, and a royal procurator-general, and is divided into 2 chambers, one for civil, the other for criminal INTRODUCTION - . REVENUE ARMY AND NAVY. xxi causes. 9. The special courts, Gran Corti Specially are composed of 8 judges of the criminal courts, who are appointed by commission, and invested with special powers. There is no appeal from their decisions. 5. Revenue. The average revenue of the kingdom of the Two Sicilies is about 4,500,000?., of which Sicily contributes about one-ninth. In 1831 the revenue was 4,441,667?., and the expenditure 4,976,090?. In 1846 and 1847 the revenue was 4,657,171?., and the expenditure 4,604,868?., leaving a surplus in each year of 52,303 ?. But the abolition, in 1847, of one-third of the duty on salt, and of the remaining duty on corn- mills, converted this surplus into a deficit of 270,990?., which was increased, by a falling off in the indirect taxes and other sources of income, to 321,031?. The suspension of the contribution from Sicily in 1848 caused a further deficiency of 533,333?., making a total deficiency of 1,125,354?. The ascertained deficiency in 1849, as reduced by the appropriation of the sinking fund, was 858,688?. The various items of revenue, as stated in the ministerial programme for 1847, the last we have been able to consult, are as follows : — Land-tax, 1,273,540?. ; taxes farmed, 1,875,970?. (viz., customs, 733,333 ?. ; civic dues, being an excise on articles of consumption, 366,665?. ; tobacco, 177,333 ?. ; salt, 543,440?. ; ice or snow, 13,023 ?. ; gunpowder, 31,010?. ; playing- cards, 2833?. ; compensation from farmers, 8333?.) ; corn-mills (since abolished), 104,325?. ; lottery, 222,815?. ; stamps and registers, 213,135?. ; percentage on the salaries of civil and military officers, 161,165?. ; public domains, 101,295?.; post-office, 46,666?.; railroads, 31,666?.; miscellaneous, 30,390?. ; comunal tax, 28,925?. ; game-licences, woods and forests, 16,636?. ; discount bank, 10,000?. ; mint and coin- age, 8185?. ; royal printing office, 3910?. ; contribution of Sicily, 528,548?. Total, 4,657,171?. We have no means of contrasting this estimate with the expenditure of the same year ; but the following items, published by the government for a former year, will give a general idea of the distribution of the expenditure among the different branches of administration : — Finance department, including the in- terest of the treasury debt, 2,545,070?. ; the army, 1,254,090?. ; the navy, 264,690?. ; interior, 340,000?. ; civil list, 337,620?., not includ- ing Crown lands; justice, 125,160?.; foreign affairs, 59,160?.; police, 42,500?. ; ecclesiastical department and education, 7800?. The funded debt, previous to 1820, was 4,733,333?. ; in 1821 this was augmented by two new loans, amounting to 1,590,750 ?. In 1826 the debt had increased to 17,302,833 ?. ; in 1847 it was 13,868,189?. In 1854 it was nearly 17,000,000?. 6. Army and Navy. The continental provinces are arranged in six military districts, exclusive of the capital, each being under the command of a general of division. The troops are raised by conscription, extending from the age of 18 to that of 25. There are few exemptions, but the power of obtaining a substitute is legalised at the fixed sum of 240 ducats. XX ii INTRODUCTION. — ECCLESIASTICAL ESTABLISHMENT. Every soldier in the line can claim his discharge at the expiration of 5 years’ service, but he is liable to be called out again in case of emergency. In the cavalry, artillery, and gendarmerie, the period of service is 8 years, but the discharge is then final and complete. The present military establishment (May, 1857) numbers 2730 officers, 93,030 soldiers, and 10,780 horses, including about 12,000 Swiss, and the Royal Guard composed of 9000 officers and men, of which 1300 are cavalry ; the Gendarmeria also included in the above total amounts to 4675, of whom 600 are mounted. The navy has been reorganised within the last few years. It consists of 2 ships of the line of 80 guns ; 5 frigates from 60 guns to 44 ; 2 corvettes of 22 guns ; 5 brigs ; 2 sloops of 14 guns. The steam squadron consists of 10 frigates of 300 horse-power each, 2 of 400, 4 of 200, 1 of 150, and 14 others of inferior force. The number of seamen exceeds 4000, the marines and marine artillery (Truppe di Marina ) between 6000 and 7000. 7. Ecclesiastical Establishment. The ecclesiastical jurisdiction was defined by the Concordat of 1818 with Pius VII. The Roman Catholic religion is therein declared to be the exclusive religion of the country. The church establishment of the continental provinces, as then settled by the union of several of the smaller sees, consists of 19 archbishoprics, 64 bishoprics, 3 ab- bacies, 72 clerical seminaries, and 3746 parishes. The Archbishoprics are those of Naples, Acerenza and Matera, Amalfi, Bari, Brindisi, Capua, Chieti, Conza, Cosenza, Lanciano, Manfredonia, Otranto, Reggio, Rossano, Salerno, Santa Severina, Sorrento, Taranto, Trani. The Bishoprics are S. Agata de’ Goti and Acerra ; Andria ; S. Angelo de’ Lombardi and Bisaccia ; Anglona and Tursi ; Aquila ; Ariano ; Ascoli and Cerignola ; Avellino ; Aversa ; Bisignano and San Marco ; Bitonto and Ruvo ; Bojano ; Bova ; Bo vino ; Calvi and Teano ; Capaccio ; Cariati ; Caserta ; Cassano ; Castellammare ; Castellaneta ; Catanzaro ; Cava and Sarno ; Cerreto Telese and Alife ; Conversano ; Cotrone ; Gaeta ; Gallipoli and Nard6 ; Gerace ; Gravina and Montepeloso ; Ischia; Isernia ; Lacedonia ; Larino ; Lecce; Lucera ; Marsi ; Melfi and Rapolla ; Mileto ; Molfetta Giovenazzo and Terlizzi ; Monopoli ; Muro ; Nicastro ; Nola ; Nusco ; Oppido ; Oria ; Penne and Atri ; Poli castro ; Potenza and Marsico ; Pozzuoli ; Sansevero ; Sessa ; Sol- mona and Valva ; Sora Aquino and Pontecorvo ; Squillace ; Teramo ; Termoli ; Tricarico ; Trivento ; Troja ; Tropea and Nicotera ; Ugento ; Venosa. The Abbacies are Monte Casino, SS. Trinity della Cava, and Montevergine. Each diocese has its own independent administration, consisting of the bishop as president, and two canons, who are elected every three years by the chapter of the diocese. The archbishop of Naples is always a cardinal. When the monastic orders were partially suppressed in 1807, the number of ecclesiastics amounted to 98,000. The orders were restored in 1814, but they have not yet recovered their former numbers. In 1840 they were already 53,033 (page xii). There are about 2000 Jews in the kingdom, but they are not allowed to acquire a domicile, or hold property. INTRODUCTION. — EDUCATION — AGRICULTURE. XXlil 8. Education. The superintendence of public instruction is vested in a supreme Giunta , or board, at Naples, consisting of the president of the univer- sity, and six of the professors, mostly ecclesiastics, and selected by the king. By the French law an elementary school was established in every comune in the kingdom ; but since the restoration these schools have been much neglected. Many of them have even ceased to exist ; reading and writing are alone taught in those which still survive, under the care of the parish priest ; and in the female schools very few of the girls receive any other instruction than in knitting and sewing. Hence it is that the Neapolitans are less educated than any other people of Italy. For the middle class there are 33 secondary schools and 12 royal colleges, most of which are attached to monasteries and superintended by monks. In addition to these there are five lyceums, at Naples, Salerno, Aquila, Bari, and Catanzaro, in which the course of education is academical and the minor degrees may be obtained. Finally there is the university of Naples, founded in 1224, the only one in the continental part of the kingdom, which has, on an average, about 1500 students. To this university 54 professors are attached, 8 for theology, 8 for jurisprudence, 8 for philosophy and literature, 14 for physical and mathematical science, and 16 for medicine. Some of these professors have obtained a European reputation by their scientific discoveries. The salaries of the professors vary from 400 to 600 ducats (from 70 1. to 100?. per annum). Students for the church are educated at the Bishops’ seminaries which exist in each diocese. The Collegio di S. Sebastiano, directed by the Jesuits, is devoted to the education of the children of the nobility. The religious discipline of the students, in the university and the colleges of all classes, is much more regarded than their regular attendance on the lectures. Each student is compelled to belong to some religious “ congregation,” which he is bound to attend on every holiday, and a certificate of the fact must be produced before he can obtain permission to reside. No student can obtain a degree unless he has attended his congregation regularly for at least eight months previously, and the same period of attendance is required for each successive degree. For female educa- tion, in the higher ranks of society, there are two establishments at Naples, one at the Beal Casa de’ Miracoli, the other at S. Marcellino. 9. Agriculture. The total area of the continental kingdom is supposed to contain 25,275,645 moggia, or 20,220,516 English acres. Of this quantity the returns of the land-tax show that only 11,430,972 acres are actually cultivated. Signor Granata, the able professor of practical chemistry and agriculture in the University of Naples, in his work on the Kural Economy of the Kingdom, classifies the agriculture of the continental provinces under three distinct systems, which he calls the Mountain system ; the Campanian system ; the Apulian system. The Mountain bystem includes the cultivated districts of the kingdom XXIV INTRODUCTION. AGRICULTURE. f generally, with the exception of the plains of Campania and Apulia, but the term does not apply to the higher ranges of the mountain chain which occupies the centre of the kingdom. The farms in this class are I of small extent, varying from 2 to 7 English acres. The rotation generally begins with spring wheat or maize. When the summer crop j is gathered in, the ground is prepared for wheat, which is sown in autumn. This is followed in the second year by another crop of wheat, or, in elevated situations, by one of barley, oats, or beans. Two years of rest succeed, during which the herbage which springs up is grazed l down by sheep. Of late years an improved system has been intro- duced, in which the rotation on light soils is as follows : 1st year fallow, with maize or potatoes ; 2nd wheat ; 3rd rye ; while on strong , soils, manured by sheep, it is in the 1st year fallow, with potatoes ; in the 2nd wheat ; in the 3rd beans ; in the 4th barley. i The Campanian System prevails from the Bay of Gaeta to Sorrento, including the islands of the Bay of Naples. It differs from the moun- ■ tain system in the larger size of the farms, in the advantages of a light ■ and rich volcanic soil, and in the abundance of manure. There is therefore no fallow in the rotation of crops, the ground being kept from ! , year to year in a state of high cultivation. One of the characterist' features of the Campanian system is the cultivation of grain crc under the shade of trees. This practice has frequently been noticed by travellers as a proof of bad farming ; but in this district it is found that the soil, when thus protected, produces both grain and grass of better quality, though perhaps in smaller quantities. This deficiency in the amount of the crop is more than made up for by the farmer being enabled to combine arable husbandry with the cultivation of the [ vine, the mulberry, and the orange. If he prefer the vine, he plants { ; elms or poplars on which to train it ; if the olive or the mulberry-tree ! \ be the object, he plants them in rows from 30 to 40 feet apart, thus , leaving ample room for raising a crop of corn or of green food between j them. In many farms another permanent crop is obtained by the, j introduction of the stone-pine, which towers over all other trees without j j depriving them of sunshine, and is a source of considerable profit in a j country where its fruit is considered one of the delicacies of the table. ( The rotation in these farms is managed with great skill. In the j beginning of October, red clover and artificial grasses, rape, or lupins ! f are raised, to provide green food for cattle from December to March. ( In April the land is ploughed. Maize is then sown in furrows ; with | ^ beans, potatoes, or gourds in the spaces between the maize. When i r these summer crops are gathered in, wheat is sown. Sometimes hemp j takes the place of maize in the first year, and spring wheat in the j s second, when the ground is manured by sheep. Another rotation in ^ frequent use is hemp with manure in the 1st year ; wheat in the 2nd ; I i spring wheat in the 3rd ; and wheat in the 4th. It is calculated that ) a the land thus cultivated yields on an average fifteenfold per moggio, J C( which is equal to about eighteenfold on the English acre. A good deal re of madder-root has been of late years grown in the valley of the Sarno, jj, as well as cotton about Scafati, Pompeii, &c. ^ The Apulian System , known as that of the Tavoliere, is peculiar to t the great plain of the Puglia, which presents a vast treeless flat, parched ^ INTRODUCTION. AGRICULTURE. XXV in summer, but in winter clothed with luxuriant herbage. The soil is ia thin layer of vegetable earth, on an argillaceous bed, sometimes deep and rich, resting partly on Apennine limestone, and partly on a deep bed of gravel mixed with clay, forming a kind of argillaceous breccia of the tertiary period. From the earliest times the Samnite shepherds were accustomed to resort to this plain for the winter pasturage of their flocks. The Romans imposed a fixed tribute on the right of grazing upon the plain. The tax was continued by the Lombards, the Greeks, and the Normans, peculiar privileges being granted to the Ishepherds from time to time, to reconcile them to the exaction, [Under the last three sovereigns of the House of Anjou, the tribute assumed the character of a tax upon cattle throughout the whole kingdom, viz. 20 golden ducats for 100 oxen, and 2 ducats for 100 sheep. Up to this time the migration of the flocks, whatever the sum ; payable as tribute, had been purely voluntary. In 1442 Alfonso I. made the migration compulsory. To reconcile the farmers to this inno- vation, the price of salt was reduced in their favour, and various immunities and privileges granted, such as the exemption from the tolls exacted by the barons and from the excise duties levied by the i'own, the protection of their produce by the prohibition of imports of Hoi and cheese, &c. Thus the Spanish Mesta, with all its evils, was transplanted from the Sierra Nevada to the plain of Apulia. The plain itself was capable of affording pasturage to upwards of 900,000 [sheep, allowing 60 acres to every 100 head. The concourse of cattle which the new law brought into the plain soon made the crown lands insufficient for their accommodation. To meet this deficiency Alfonso purchased the right of grazing on the lands of the neighbouring barons, i convents, and townships, distinguishing these tracts by the name of | ristori. These new pastures were estimated to supply food for 268,740 | sheep. Two other tracts of pasturage were subsequently added, one in the Terra d’Otranto, the other in the Abruzzi, each capable of accom- 1 modating about 25,000 sheep. The total number, therefore, for which pasturage was provided, was very nearly 1,241,000. The price paid by the farmer for five months’ grazing was 88 carlini for every 100 head of sheep, equivalent to 11. 9s. 4 d. For the purpose of conveying the flocks to and from the plain, three great roads, still called the Trat - turi delle Pecore , were opened, one commencing at Aquila, another at Celano, the third at Peschio Asseroli. Certain tracts adjacent to the jgreat roads were rented by the crown as resting-places, under the name of riposi laterali, on which the cattle were allowed to graze for 24 hours during the march. Two general resting-places were also provided for them on their arrival on the plain, to give time to the proper officers to apportion the pasture, one being near Larino, the other in the Murgie of Miner vino. No cattle were allowed to i approach the plain by any except the appointed roads, on which at \ certain points stations were established, where each proprietor was l required to declare the number of his flock. After this declaration , jhad been verified by the officers, the number was duly registered, [with the amount of tax payable thereon. As soon as the pasture ) | was partitioned, the farmers were stationed, under the name of locati, L lin certain districts, according to the province from which they came, | [S. Italy.'] 5 XXVI INTRODUCTION. AGRICULTURE. each division being called a nazione. These nations were allowed to hold an assembly, at which they elected four deputies by ballot to represent them at the dogana at Foggia, to superintend the collection of the tax, to defend the interests of the farmers before the magis- trates, to regulate the supply of food and the distribution of salt, and to decide all disputes among the shepherds connected with the pasturage. The tax was always collected at Foggia, where the farmers were compelled to sell the whole produce of their stock. One half of the tax was collected after the sale of the live stock, the other half after the sale of the wool. When the amount sold was not sufficient to meet the- tax, the stock of wool on hand was stored in the custom- house of Foggia as security for the balance. No farmer could remove his flocks from the plain without a passport, which was never granted until the crown dues were satisfied. The Tavoliere became a mine of wealth. During the war which arose out of the Partition Treaty of Granada, Apulia was the battle-field of the contending armies, and the destruction of the cattle gave a blow to the whole system, from which it would never have recovered if the viceroys had not revived it as an instrument of extortion. In 1602 the system had become so odious, that, though the viceroys had allowed the farmers to declare the number of their flocks instead of having them counted by the officers of the dogana, the number on which the tax was paid was only 588,947, about half the number of Alfonso’s time. To make up this loss of revenue the tax was then doubled, an experiment which threatened the system with ruin, and which it was vainly attempted to repair by again dimi- nishing it, and exempting the cattle of the poor from the compulsory migration. On the accession of Charles III. the system was made the subject of official inquiry. It was found that the farmers had been in the habit of taking more land than they required for pasture, and had broken up and sown with corn a portion of that which had been assigned to them, thereby realising large profits at the low rate which they paid for pasturage. The people of Foggia, also, were found to have in- duced their friends who had seats at the local board to give them, at a low price, the best lots, which they underlet to the farmers at a high rent. To check these evils, it was proposed to make a par- tition of that part of the pasturage which had been subject to annual distribution, by letting the land on lease for a fixed term of 6 or more years. This scheme was partially carried out by Ferdinand I. But the French revolution broke out, and the events which followed struck at the root of the whole system. The farms held under the crown were declared, by a law of 1806, to be heritable fiefs of those who were in possession ; and the occupants of lands which had been assigned to them for grazing were acknowledged as owners of such lands, on payment of a fixed rent proportioned to the number of their cattle ; the rents, however, as well as the feudal charges payable on all kinds of land, were redeemable at the option of the holder. In 1817, two years after the restoration of Ferdinand, the system was partly re-established. The land was taken from those who had been settled on it ten years before, and the rents and charges were declared to be irredeemable. The compulsory migration is now at an end ; but INTRODUCTION . — AGRICULTURE. XXV11 the farmers and breeders in the neighbouring mountains voluntarily bring down their flocks to a great extent. The administration of the pasturage is now confided entirely to the Intendente of the province. The tolls and rents paid to the crown and other owners of the pasturage are still considerable, and are said to amount on an average to more than 80,000/5. per annum. Such is briefly the history of the Tavoliere, to which we shall only add a few details relating to the constitution of the flocks. The mandra , or the general flock, is under the care of a massaro , or chief shepherd, a sotto- massaro , or under-shepherd, and a capo-buttaro, or head dairyman. The flock is subdivided into several morre, each morra under the care of a shepherd, a dairyman, and an upper- dairyman, who has charge of the cheese. To each morra two dogs and a mule are attached, the latter for carrying the utensils for making cheese, and the baggage of the shepherd. The chief shepherd, the head dairyman, and the upper dairyman receive, in wages, 24 ducats (31. 18s.) per annum, with food, consisting of bread, oil, milk, goats’ cheese, and salt, and a dress of sheepskins, a coarse shirt, breeches of the coarsest cloth, and sandals. The under '-shep- herd receives 18 ducats (31.) per annum ; and the under-dairyman re- ceives 8 ducats (1L 6s. 8d.) for the first year, which is increased at the rate of a ducat a year, until he is 16 years of age, when he becomes an under-shepherd. When the flocks are in the pastures, all these people live and sleep on the ground under a tent of skins, the wives in their absence attending to the crops in the mountains, or supporting themselves by spinning. The number of live stock in the kingdom, according to a report pub- lished, is stated to be as follows : — sheep, 4,000,000 ; goats, 600,000 ; mules and asses, 600,000 ; oxen and cows, 300,000 ; horses, 60,000 ; buffaloes, 40,000. The sheep most in request are the white fine-woolled breed, known by the local name of pecore gentili. They are shorn twice a year, once entirely in the spring, and only half in the summer. The wool is mostly sold and exported ; a small quantity, however, is now manufactured into cloth at Arpino and other places of the kingdom. From the milk of the sheep a cheese is made which constitutes the food of a large proportion of the people, and is a more immediate source of profit to the farmer than the wool. The result of this is, that the breed of sheep which produced the delicate white wool of antiquity has long since disappeared, and more attention is paid to the milk and cheese than to the wool. The horses , which had formerly great celebrity in Italy, have degenerated in the last century, when a heavy tax, laid upon their exportation, induced the other states, which drew their stocks from Naples, to turn their attention to breeding. Still some of the horses of Capitanata and Calabria are fine animals, and are remark- able for that compact form which justifies the boast of the Neapolitans that the Balbi horses in the Museum are the type of the existing race. Mules are abundant in the Abruzzi, the Terra d’ Otranto, and other pro- vinces on the Adriatic. Horned cattle have hitherto been less attended to than they deserve, except on the farms of the richer nobles. Cows’ milk is seldom made into butter, except for the supply of the capital, olive- oil being used in its stead in all parts of the kingdom : the milk is used in making cheese. The oxen are used in ploughing and for b 2 xxviii INTRODUCTION. — AGRICULTURE. draught. Buffaloes are also used for draught in the Terra di Lavoro and part of Apulia, and their milk is made into cheese. The swine are generally black, and in the warmer regions devoid of bristles, as in and about the capital. Many districts are still as famous for bees as they were in classical times. The crops throughout the kingdom present us with nearly every de- scription of tree and plant known in the temperate and torrid zones. The corn produced in the continental provinces is estimated, on a full year’s average, at 42,000,000 tomola , which, calculated at 5 tomola to the quarter, gives 8,400,000 English quarters. The Vine is of universal cultivation. When a vineyard is to be planted, the ground is usually prepared for two years previously ; a light calcareous or argillaceous soil is, if possible, selected ; and when the nature of the ground permits, a gentle elevation is preferred to a level surface. The mode of pro- pagation is either by layers or by cuttings. In the third year the plants begin to bear fruit. The vintage commences at the end of September. The grapes are collected in a vat sunk beneath the floor, in which they are generally allowed to remain for a few days before they are trodden out. The liquor is drawn off into casks, but so little skill is exercised in the treatment of the wine, that a large quantity of the whole pro- duce is fit only to be converted into brandy, in which form it is exported to foreign countries. The Olive flourishes best in dry and stony districts, and in plains or slopes open to the S. On the hills the produce is less, but the quality of the oil is superior. There are numberless varieties. That of Venafro, known by the local name of the Serc/ia, is said to be one of the best, and is supposed to be the Lacinia of Pliny. There are three modes of propagation, by slips, by shoots, and by grafting runners or slips on the wild olive. Propagation by slips is performed in winter, and in 10 years the slip becomes a pro- fitable tree. Shoots require many years before they become productive. Grafting by slips is performed in March and April, and is the most expeditious mode of propagation, the fruit being produced in 5 years. The flowering takes place in June, and the fruit begins to ripen in October, when it is fit for being preserved for the table. If required for making oil, it is allowed to remain on the tree, where it soon turns black, and reaches maturity in December. The oil-mills of the present day differ very little from those which have been discovered in the ruins at Pompeii and Stabise. The average annual exportation from the continental provinces is about 31,800 tuns, the value of which, at 23L the tun, would be 731,400Z. The exports from Sicily are said to be 4200 tuns. The oil of Vico, Sorrento, Massa, and of some other places near Naples, is in high repute. The oil of Terra d’Otranto, how- ever, is by far the most important in a commercial point of view. That province and the Terra di Bari are the chief seats of the culti- vation, about two-thirds of each being covered with olive-grounds. The Mulberry-tree , under the Aragonese dynasty, was an object of general cultivation ; but the heavy duty imposed on silk in the last cent. (3 carlini per lb.) discouraged the farmers from planting them, and it has only been in recent years that the cultivation has been resumed. The raw silk of the provinces of Napoli, Terra di Lavoro, the two Principati, and Calabria, is excellent, and finds a ready market INTRODUCTION. — COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES. xxix abroad. The Fig is extensively cultivated in the eastern provinces. The Almond is a very profitable tree, but it is liable to be injured by sudden changes of temperature whilst in flower. The Carouba grows better near the sea-shore, and is a striking object with its grotesque fruit-pods, which form an important article as the food of horses. The hazel-nut is extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood of Avellino. The Orange and the Lemon are propagated by layers. A twig is struck in a pot in the autumn, and is separated from the tree in May, when it is transplanted : it requires 6 or 8 years before it becomes productive. The Date-palm produces fruit, but cannot be said to ripen in any part of the kingdom. The Tobacco-plant is cultivated in the Terra d’Otranto, on the table-land behind the Capo di Leuca, where it is considered the best in Italy. The Cotton-plant is culti- vated in the provinces of Naples, Terra di Lavoro, Bari, Otranto, Basili- cata, and Calabria. It is said to thrive best in the Terra d’Otranto and the Maremma of Basilicata, where the soil is light and swampy. The plant begins to blossom in July, and towards the beginning of October the capsules begin to burst. Rice is grown in the marshy dis- tricts beyond Salerno and in the Adriatic provinces, but its cultivation is highly injurious to the health of the localities. The Liquorice- root is grown to a great extent in the Calabrias, from whence the greater part of the extract called liquorice-juice is brought for the French and English markets. Saffron grows wild in the pasture-grounds about Aquila, Taranto, and Cosenza. Manna is produced in abundance in the three Calabrias. The climate of the Terra di Bari and of Calabria is the best suited for the production of Raisins and Currants. The small island of Dino in the Gulf of Policastro, and the still smaller Isola Cirella, a few m. further S., are particularly celebrated for the latter. 10. Commerce and Manufactures. Naples has little foreign trade in proportion to its extent and population. The average value of the exports from the continental provinces appears to be about 1,750,000?., of which France receives about 585,000?. ; Austria 435,000?. ; Sardinia, 210,000?. ; Great Britain, 185,000?. ; the Papal States, 103,000?. ; Tuscany, 90,000?. ; Sicily, 35,000?. ; the United States, 2600?. The average imports are valued at 2,400,000?., of which Great Britain furnishes, in round numbers, 950,000?. ; France, 710,000?. ; Austria, 235,000?. ; Sardinia, 147,000?. ; Sicily, 109,000?. ; Tus- cany, 68,000?. ; the Papal States, 43,000?. ; the United States, 10,000?. The principal British imports, in the order of amount, are cotton manu- factures, cotton twist, iron, coals, woollens, worsteds, sugar, cod-fish, pilchards, tin, and hardware. The principal exports to Great Britain are olive-oil, silk, liquorice, brandy. Manufacturing industry has made considerable progress within the last 30 years. Naples has manufactories of gloves, soap, perfumery, silks, artificial flowers, corals, earthenware, hats, and carriages. Torre dell’ Annunziata and Gragnano are celebrated for their fabrication of maccaroni. In the Terra di Lavoro , S. Maria di Capua has a con- siderable trade in leather ; Piedimonte has cotton and copper mills, XXX INTRODUCTION. FISHERIES. and manufactories of paper, cloths, serges, and skins ; Arpino main- tains its ancient reputation for woollen cloths made of Apulian wool ; and Sora produces both cloth and paper. In Principato Citra there are several cotton-mills near Salerno, set in motion by the waters of the Irno ; Sarno has a factory of beet-root sugar ; Cava has manufactories of linen, cotton, ropes, and cordage ; Yietri has a small manufactory of bottles and paper ; and Amalfi has paper and maccaroni mills, the pro- duce of which is exported largely to the Levant and South America. In Principato Ultra , Avellino has a local celebrity for its manufacture of hats ; and Atripalda has iron-foundries, fulling and paper mills. In the Basilicata, Matera and some of the other inland towns prepare liquorice -juice. In Molise, Campobasso,. Agnone, Frosolone, and Lucito are the principal seats of the manufacture of a coarse hardware. Agnone has copper-works ; Colletorto maintains a profitable trade in hats, skins, wax ornaments and candles ; and Isernia has several manu- factories of woollen, paper, and earthenware. Abruzzo Citra is known for its production of rice and saffron. In Abruzzo Ultra II., several towns maintain a small local trade in skins, hats, and paper. The Terra di Bari supplies a great part of the kingdom with salt and nitre. In the Terra d’ Otranto, Brindisi supplies the E. coast with maccaroni ; Gallipoli has several mills for carding and manufacturing the cotton of the province ; and Taranto is known for the gloves and stockings knit from the lana pesce, the silken tuft by which the pinna marina, a bivalve shell, attaches itself to the rocks. Calabria Citra is the principal seat of the manna trade, and has several manufactories of liquorice-juice. Calabria Ultra II. shares in the trade of manna, and has a considerable traffic in saffron ; and Catanzaro has a manufactory of silk. In Calabria Ultra I., Reggio has some reputation for its dried fruits, essential oils of citron, lemon, and orange flower, and its silk manufactories. 11. Fisheries. The sea fisheries, which give employment to a large number of seamen, are those of the tunny, the sword-fish, and the anchovy. The tunny enters the Mediterranean between June and August. It measures from 6 to 8 feet in length, and frequently weighs as much as 4 or 5 cwt. It is caught in large nets, anchored about a mile from the shore in situations which the shoals of fish are known to frequent. When the fish are expected, men are stationed on the heights to give the signal of their approach, as they are seen from a great distance. The mode of capture is the same as that practised in other parts of the Mediter- ranean. The sword-fish, or pesce-spada, always accompanies the tunny in its migrations. It is occasionally caught in the chambered nets, but is more generally harpooned during the passage of the shoals. Its length, including the sword, varies from 8 to 12 feet : its weight sometimes exceeds 2 cwt. The harpooning requires considerable dexterity, as the fish is so powerful that it often runs out the whole coil of rope before it becomes sufficiently exhausted to allow the fisher- men to seize it. The flesh is more delicate than that of the tunny. The anchovy is taken in nets in the spring, and in shallow but clear water. It is cured and packed upon the spot, and is exported in INTRODUCTION. ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE AND ART. xxxi I large quantities. The grey mullet and slea basse ( Spigola ) abound on ji all parts of the coast, chiefly at the mouths of rivers. 12. Ancient Architecture and Art. In the Handbook for Central Italy we have referred to the styles of architecture of ancient Italy, anterior to the Roman period. These remarks apply equally to Southern Italy. In the Northern provinces of the kingdom we find not only examples of polygonal constructions, but some of the most remarkable remains of what has been called the Pelasgic period now existing in Europe. There are very interesting examples of it in the oldest parts of Cora ; in the Cicolano district ; in the acropolis of Atina ; and in that of Sora. The Pelasgic remains of perhaps a less remote period are also very numerous ; at Cora, and Norba, and Fregelke, Ferentino, and Segni, the walls are still either perfect or traceable throughout their entire circuit. All these remains, however, are surpassed by the acropolis of Alatri, the best specimen of this ancient mode of construction which exists in Central Italy. Arpino, in addition to walls of great extent, has a triangular gateway of massive polygonal blocks differing from every other known specimen of entrances to ancient fortresses. Of Greek architecture Naples pos- sesses the most splendid monuments in the world in the temples of Psestum, constructed in the most massive style of the older Doric, and of which one at least is coeval with the earliest Grecian colonization of the shores of Italy. Of Boman architecture there are remains in every part of the kingdom ; but those which give Naples an interest beyond any other city in Europe are to be found at Pompeii and Herculaneum, for there only are we admitted to the domestic mode of living of the ancient Romans, and enabled to study their habits and their public institutions. At Benevento we see the magnificent arch raised to Trajan ; and at S. Maria di Capua the amphitheatre, more ancient and more complete as far as regards its substructions than the Coliseum itself. In Painting , Naples is especially rich in specimens of Roman art, obtained from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Many of these bear evidence of having been the work of Greek artists. Of Mosaics , Naples has also some fine examples. Though intended merely as pavements, and in most cases coarsely executed, they have the same general character as the paintings, and were evidently the work of Greek artists. One of the finest yet recovered from Pompeii bears the name of Dioscorides of Samos in Greek characters, and the Battle of Issus, one of the grandest known works in this branch of art, was probably the production of Greek hands. The Sculpture in the Museo Borbonico is of mixed origin, but of a highly interesting character. The collection contains some noble examples of the purest Greek art, and a large number of specimens of the Roman period. The Sepulchral Vases also bear the clearest evidence of Greek origin. All the most beautiful specimens have been obtained from the sites of the early Greek colonies in Magna Grsecia ; whilst many of them bear in Greek characters the names of the artists and of the personages represented upon them. The collection of Bronzes found at Herculaneum and Pompeii surpasses, for its works of art and historical interest, all others of this branch of sculpture that exist. xxxii INTRODUCTION. MEDIAEVAL AND MODERN ARCHITECTURE. 13. Medieval and Modern Architecture. The early connection of Naples with the Eastern empire prepared the way for the introduction of a style of architecture which was a combination of Roman and Byzantine. With the exception, however, of the Priory of S. Nicola at Bari, there are now few unmixed specimens of that style in the kingdom ; for the Normans engrafted upon it the Gothic style, producing that singular mixture which is now known as Gothic-Saracenic. To the Norman period belongs the Abbey of the Holy Trinity at Venosa. After the accession of the House of Anjou to the throne, Gothic architecture was exclusively patronised by the sovereigns of that dynasty, and most of the ecclesiastical edifices of the capital are or were originally in that style. Of Castellated architecture Naples has more examples than perhaps any nation in S. Europe. Our space will only allow us to mention the baronial fortress of Melfi ; Lucera and Castel del Monte, built by Frederick II. ; Avezzano, the stronghold of the Barberinis ; Popoli, of the Cantelmis ; Isola and Sora, of the Pic- colomini and Buoncompagnis ; and Castel di Sangro, of the Counts of the Marsi. The church architecture of Naples presents scarcely an unaltered specimen of the religious edifices of the 14th, L5th, and 16th centuries. Many of the earlier churches, which in their original state must have been magnificent examples of Angevine Gothic, have been barbarously spoiled by modern alterations, and by an excessive passion for tasteless ornament introduced by the Spaniards. Some of the old palaces also, which were erected in the pointed style, have lost nearly all their distinctive features, and are now interesting chiefly as marking the passage of the Gothic into the style of the Revival. The Venetian Maestro Buono , the builder of the campanile of St. Mark in the beginning of the twelfth century, is the earliest architect of whom we have any record at Naples. He was employed by the Norman king, William I., to design the Castel dell’ Ovo and the Castel Capuano. 14. Sculpture. The Neapolitan sculptors derived their earliest instruction from Byzantium. The few bronze doors of the churches still preserved were the work of Byzantine artists. The doors at Amalfi date from the year 1000 ; those of Monte Casino, cast at Constantinople on the model of those of Amalfi, from 1066 ; those of Atrani from 1087 ; those of Salerno from 1099 ; those of Benevento, also made at Constantinople, and remarkable for their elaborate reliefs, from 1150; and those of Raveflo from 1179. The churches of Naples abound in sepulchral monuments of the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries, which it would require a separate volume to describe in detail, or to do justice to their merits as illustrating the revival and progress of art. 15. Painting. It has been frequently suggested by Italian writers on the Neapolitan school of painting, that the antiques and arabesques which have been discovered in the neighbourhood of the capital must have had an im- portant influence in forming the style of the earlier masters. If this remark had been restricted to the artists of the 16th and 17th centuries, INTRODUCTION. SCULPTURE PAINTING. xxxiii who undoubtedly studied with diligence the frescoes and ornaments brought to light by the excavation of the Roman tombs at Puteoli and other places in the western district, its accuracy might be ad- mitted ; but the late period of these excavations, and the still later period of the discovery of the buried cities, appear to throw great doubt upon the theory as applied to the older masters. There is perhaps more reason for assuming that the mosaics which the By- zantine artists, from a very early period of the connection of Naples with the Eastern empire, introduced into the Lombard and early Gothic churches, were the source of that large infusion of Byzantine art which characterised the Neapolitan school in the first stages of its development. At a later period, on the accession of the house of Aragon, the patronage of Flemish painters by Alfonso I. brought the artists of Naples into intimate association with the masters of that school, and this association was subsequently strengthened in a more direct manner by the connection of the Netherlands with Spain, while Naples was governed by the Spanish Viceroys. As it would be out of place, in a work of this kind, to enter into a detailed account of the Neapolitan school of painting, we shall, for the convenience of the traveller, confine ourselves to a chronological list of the most celebrated Neapolitan artists, in the three branches of paint- ing, sculpture, and architecture ; a more complete catalogue of artists in general, whose works are met with in Italy, will be found, in the Introduction to the Handbook of Central Italy. For those, however, who desire more detailed information* on the Neapolitan school of painting, we must refer them to Kugler’s Handbook of the Italian Schools,* and to Miss Farquhar's useful little volume on Italian Painters.f ARCHITECTS. B. D. 1230. Masuccio I., called by the local writers the Michelangelo of the 1306 13th cent., is the first Neapolitan architect of the Revival. He is supposed to have been the pupil of a Byzantine artist ; but it is more likely that he was formed in the school of Fuccio, who was summoned to Naples by the Emperor Frederick II. to complete the Castel Capuano. 1291. Masuccio II. His pupils were : — ..... 1388 1 . Giacomo de Sanctis ........ 1435 2. Antonio Bamboccio, also written Baboccio (fl. 1420). 3. ANDREA CICCIONE . . . . . . .1455 Pietro and Ippolito del Donzello, better known as painters. Agnolo Aniello del Fiore, a pupil of Ciccione. Antonio Fiorentino of Cava, who built the first cupola in Naples 1570. Luigi Impo (fl. 1532). * Handbook of Painting — the Italian Schools : by Kugler. Edited by Sir Charles Eastlake, P.R.A. 2 vols. 8vo. 1855. f Biographical Catalogue of the principal Italian Painters : by a Lady. 1 vol. 12mo. 1855. XXXIV INTRODUCTION. ARTISTS. b. D. 1478. Giovanni Merliano da Nola, a pupil of Aniello del Fiore , cele- 1559 brated as a sculptor, Ferdinando Manlio, his pupil. Cola dell ’ Amatrice (fl. 1514-35), who was also a painter. Battista Marchirolo, of Aquila (fl. 1573). Dionisio di Bartolommeo (fl. 1592). 1675. Ferdinando Sanfelice. 1718. Carlo Zoccoli ......... 1771 1700. Luigi Vanvitelli, who erected the royal palace of Caserta. . 1773 Domenico Fontana (fl. 1600), his son Giulio Cesare (fl. 1620J, Carlo Fontana (1634-1714), Cosimo Fansaga (1591-1673), and Ferdinando Fuga (fl. 1740), although much employed at Naples, where they erected many buildings, were not Neapolitans. SCULPTORS. 1230. Masuccio /., already noticed as an architect, seems to have been 1306 the restorer of sculpture in Naples. His works are in the Minu- toli chapel (p. 91). Pietro de' Stefani, a brother of Tommaso, the painter (fl. 1 3th cent.) 1291. Masuccio II. Some fine tombs in the churches of Sta. Chiara, S. 1388 Domenico, and S. Lorenzo (pp. 98, 100, 108), are attributed to him. His pupils were : — 1. Antonio Bamboccio, an architect as well as a. sculptor. His finest works are — the Gothic doorway of S. Giovanni de’ Pappacoda, and the tomb of Aldemoresco in S. Lorenzo (pp. 107, 108). 2. Andrea Ciccione, whose masterpiece is the Tomb of Ladis- 1455 laus in the ch. of S. Giovanni in Carbonara (p. 106). Agnolo Aniello del Fiore, Ciccione' s pupil. Giuseppe Santacroce ........ 1537 1478. GIOVANNI MERLIANO, called also, from his birthplace, Gio- 1559 vanni da Nola, a pupil of Aniello del Fiore, and perhaps the best Neapolitan sculptor. His works in Naples are numerous; but his masterpiece is the Tomb of Don Pedro de Toledo, in the ch. of S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli (p. 105). Salvatore dell' Aquila, surnamed l' Ariscola (fl. 15th cent.), whose best works are at Aquila (p. 37). Silvestro Salviati dell' Aquila (fl. 1506), whose masterpiece is in the ch. of S. Bernardino, at Aquila (p. 37). Annibale Caccavello, a pupil of Merliano (fl. 16 th cent.). Domenico d’Auria (fl. 1600). Sanmartino (fl. 16th cent.). Domenico Antonio Vaccaro (fl. 18th cent.). PAINTERS. 1230. Tommaso de’ Stefani, a contemporary of Cimabue, and the founder 1310 of the Neapolitan school of painting. The illustrations of the Passion in the Minutoli chapel, and the Madonna at the high altar in Sta. Maria la Nuova (pp. 92, 110), are his best works extant. 1260. Filippo Tesauro, his pupil. The Virgin and Child with several 1320 Saints, in the Museum, is the only painting attributed to him. INTRODUCTION.— -ARTISTS. XXXV B. D„ Maestro Simone, Tesanro’s pupil, and the friend and assistant of 1346 Giotto in the paintings the latter executed at Naples. A painting in the chapel of St. Thomas Aquinas, in the ch. of S. Domenico (p. 101), is said to be his first work ; but his best paintings are in the ch. of S. Lorenzo (p. 108). His pupils were : — 1320. 1. Gennaro di Cola, to whom the frescoes in the Chapel del Croce- 1370 fisso in the ch. of the Incoronata (p. 108) are attributed. 2. Maestro Stefa none, whose best work extant is a Magdalen on a 1390 gold ground in the Brancacci chapel in S. Domenico (p. 101). 1350. 3. Colantonio or Nicola Antonio del Fj ore, the same, according 1444 to De Dominici, as Nicola di Tommaso del Fiore. He appears to have painted in oil as early as 1371. His masterpiece is the S. Jerome in the Museum. His pupils were: — 1. Angiolo Franco, whose best frescoes are in the ch. of S. Do- 1445 menico (p. 102). 1382. 2. ANTONIO SOLARIO, called lo Zingaro, a travelling tinker, 1455 who, having fallen in love with Colantonio’ s daughter, became an artist to win her hand. The frescoes illustrating the life of S. Benedict, in the cloisters of S. Severino (p. 117) are considered his masterpiece. His most eminent pupils were : — 1. Nicculo di Vito (fl. 1460). 1430. 2. Simone Papa the elder, who imitated the style of Van Eyck. 1488 His masterpiece is the painting of S. Jerome and S. James invok- ing the protection of the Archangel Michael for two Neapolitans (p. 146). 1405. 3. Pietro del Donzello . . . . . . . 1470 4. Ippolit o, or Polito del Donzello, Pietro’s brother. Their best works are in S. Domenico and Sta. Maria la Nuova (pp. 102, 1 11). 5. Silvestro Buono, or de ’ Buoni , whose masterpiece is in the 1484 Basilica of Sta. Restituta (p. 92). His pupils were : — 1. Bernardo Tesauro (fl. 1460-1480), whose fresco of the Seven Sacraments in the ch.of S. Giovanni dei Pappacoda (p. 107) has nearly disappeared. 1475. 2. Giovanni Antonio d’ Amato, called Amato il Vecchio, whose best 1555 painting is in the ch. of Sanseverino (p. 117). His pupils were : — 1490, 1. Giovan Vincenzo Corso, who studied also under Perino del 1545 Vaga, and whose masterpiece is the Christ Bearing the Cross, In the ch. of S. Domenico (p. 101). 1505. 2. Pietro Negroni, from Calabria, whose masterpiece is the Virgin 1565 and Child with St. John, in the Museum (p. 149). 1506. 3. Simone Papa the younger, whose best works are in the choir of 1567 the ch. of Monte Oliveto (p. 115). 1535. 4. Giovanni Antonio d' Amato, called Amato il Giovane . . 1598 1414. Antonello da Messina, who is said to have introduced the Van 1493-6 Eyck method of oil-painting into Italy. Cola dell’ Amatrice (fl. 1514-35), a native of Amatrice in the Abruzzi (p. 35), who resided chiefly at Ascoli ; two of his good works may be seen in the Museum of the Lateran at Rome (Handbook of Rome, p, 240). 1480. ANDREA SABBATINI, called from his birthplace Andrea di 1545 Salerno, a pupil of Raphael, and the founder of the Neapolitan school in the 16th cent. He was inspired with the determination of becoming a painter, by Perugino’s large painting of the Assump- tion in the cathedral (p. 91). He cannot be studied out of Naples, where his works are numerous. His best pupils were - XXXY1 INTRODUCTION. — ARTISTS. B. D. 1. Francesco Santafede (fl. 1560). 2. Cesar e Turco. 1509. 3. Giovan Filippo Criscuolo, whose best painting is in the ch. of 1584 Sta. Maria Donna Regina (p. 110). 1520. Francesco Imparato, Criscuolo’s pupil, who studied afterwards 1570 under Titian , and whose best pictures are in the Gesu Nuovo and in S. Pietro Martire (pp. 105, 116). Polidoro Caldara da Caravaggio came to Naples in 1527, and took up his residence in the house of his friend Andrea di Salerno. He painted at Naples many works, which had some influence on the Neapolitan school. His pupils were: — 1508. 1. Giovan Bernardo Lama, whose best painting is the Deposition 1579 from the Cross, in the Museum (p. 149). 2. Marco Cardisco , called Marco Calabrese (fl. 1542). 3. Francesco Curia, who was also a pupil of Lionardo da Pistoia . 1610 1560. Fabrizio Santafede, a son of Francesco. He was so popular an 1634 artist that in 1647 the populace spared a house merely from its having frescoes by him. His masterpiece is the Coronatioii of the Virgin in Sta. Maria la Nuova (p. 110). 1568. Giuseppe Cesari, called the Cavalier d’ Arpino, from his father’s 1640 birthplace. He was the head of the school of the Idealisti. His pupils were : — Luigi Roderigo, of Messina, and his nephew Giovan Bernardino Boderigo. They both fl. in the 17th cent. 1558. Belisario Corenzio, a Greek by birth, who studied under Tin- 1643 toretto. He was the leader of a conspiracy formed with Carac- ciolo and Spagnoletto to prevent foreign painters from working at Naples. He died by falling from a scaffolding whilst painting in the ch. of Sanseverino (p. 116). 1580. Giovan Battista Caracciolo, a pupil of Michelangelo da Cara- 1641 vaggio, and afterwards an imitator of Annibale Caracci. The picture of S. Carlo in the ch. of S. Agnello (p. 96) is one of his best works. 1588. GIUSEPPE RIBERA, called lo Spagnoletto, a native of Xativa, 1656 in Spain, or, according to De Dominici, of Gallipoli, in the pro- vince of Terra d’Otranto, where his parents had settled. He formed his style chiefly upon the works of Michelangelo da Cara- vaggio, and became one of the most remarkable of the school of the Naturalisti. The Deposition from the Cross in the ch. of S. Martino (p. 113) is considered his masterpiece. Francesco Fracanzano, a pupil of Ribera, who, having joined in an 1657 attempt of rebellion against the Spaniards, was executed by poison. His masterpiece is the Death of St. Joseph, in the ch. of the Os- pedale de’ Pellegrini (p. 120). Fompeo dell ’ Aqitila, and Marco Mazzaroppi of S. Germano, were also good painters of the 16th cent., whose best works are at Aquila (p. 37), and at Monte Casino (p. 29). 1585. Massimo Stanzioni, Caracciolo’ s best pupil, called the Guido 1656 Beni of Naples from his attempt to imitate Guido , with whom he was intimate whilst in Rome. His best works are in the Certosa of S. Martino (p. 113). His pupils were: — 1. Francesco , called Pacecco di Bosa . . . . .1654 1613. 2. Annella di Rosa, his niece, who was murdered, through jealousy 1649 either of Stanzioni or of her superior powers as an artist, by her husband. INTRODUCTION. — ARTISTS — BOOKS. xxxvn B. D. 3. Agostino Beltrano, who fled for safety to France . . . 1665 1622. 4. Bernardo Cavallino . . . . . . . .1656 5. Domenico Finoqlia, who painted in the Certosa of S. Martino 1656 (p. 114). 1598. 6. Andrea Vaccaro , who at first imitated Michelangelo da Cara- 1670 vaggio, and in his later works Guido. 1600. Aniello Falcone , a pupil either of Spagnoletto or of Stanzioni, or 1665 perhaps of both. He and his pupils, among whom was Salvator Rosa, formed themselves into a company called Compagnia della Morte, whose object was to murder the Spaniards. After Ma- saniello’s death, Falcone fled for safety to Paris, whence he was allowed to return through Colbert’s intercession. He painted battle-pieces chiefly. His pupils were : — 1615. 1. SALVATOR ROSA, who became afterwards a pupil of Spagno - 1673 letto's. His first master was his brother-in-law Fracanzano. 1612. 2. Domenico Gargiido, called Micco Spadaro. His masterpieces 1679 are the Insurrection of Masaniello, and the Plague of 1658, in the Museum (p. 148). 1613. Mattia Preti, called il Cavalier Calabrese, a pupil of Guercino. 1699 He was born at Taverna in Calabria, and died at Malta, where he had been made a Knight of St. John. 1623. Francesco di Maria, a pupil of Domenichino .... 1690 1636. Giovan Battista Beinaschi, of Turin, who settled at Naples, and 1690 belongs to the Neapolitan school. 1632. Luca Giordano, at first a pupil of Spagnoletto, but afterwards he 1705 worked with Pietro da Cortona in Rome. He imitated with ease the style of any artist, and had such a rapidity of execution that he earned the nickname of Luca fa Presto. His paintings are numerous in Naples. 1662. Paolo de Matteis, from Cilento, Giordano’s best pupil . . 1728 1657. Francesco Solimena, of Nocera, a pupil of Francesco di Maria 1747 and of Giacomo del Po, and the competitor of L. Giordano. His earlier works are the best : he became tame and mannered as he advanced in years. The Conversion of S. Paul and the Fall of Simon Magus, in the ch. of S. Paolo (p. 115), are his best paint- ings in Naples. His pupils were : — 1674. 1. Onofrio Avellino, who had been previously a pupil of Giordano 1741 2. Francesco de Mura (fl. 1743). 1676. 3. Sebastiano Conca, from Gaeta . . . . . .1764 They all preserved the faults and exaggerated the peculiarities of Solimena. 1684. Bernardo de Dominici, a pupil of Preti and of the German Beich. He painted landscapes and bambocciate, but he is better known as the historian of the Neapolitan school of art. 16 . Books. In the Introduction to the Handbooks for Northern and Central Italy will be found a list of works, many of which will be equally useful to the traveller in Southern Italy. We shall only add some other works which especially regard the kingdom of Naples. Those who are willing to devote time to the study of Neapolitan history will find ample materials in the ‘ Raccolta di tutti i piu rinomati scrittori dell ’ Istoria Generate del Regno,' Naples, 1769-77, 25 vols, 4to. It contains Capece- latro, Di Costanzo, Pontanus, Porzio, Collenuccio, Costo, Parrino, Gianuone, and many other anonymous or secondary authors. Of Giannone’s ‘ Storia INTRODUCTION. — MAPS. xxxviii Civile del Regno di Napoli ’ there are several other editions ; the best is that published by Bettoni at Milan, 1831, 9 vols. 8vo. The perusal of Colletta’s ‘ Storia del Reame di Napoli ’ from 1734, when the present Bourbon dynasty was established, to 1825, is indispensable to any one who wants to know something of modern Neapolitan history. The best edition is that of Florence by Le Monnier, 1848, 2 vols. 12mo. ; but the work is strictly forbidden at Naples, and will be sure to be seized at the Custom-house. An account of the latest events from 1846 to 1853 will be found in Ranalli’s ‘ Istorie Italiane ,’ Florence, 1855, 4 vols. 12mo. In the last century Bernardo di Dominici, himself a painter, wrote the * Vite de Pittori, Scultori, ed drchitetti Napolitani f a very indifferent com- pilation, but the only one on the subject. The original edition of Naples, 1742, 3 vols. 4to., is not easily found ; but there was a reprint at Naples in 1840 in 4 vols. 8vo. Giustiniani’s ‘ Dizionario Geografico,’ Naples, 1797-1805, 10 vols. 8vo., and ‘ Dizionario de’ Monti , Laghi , e Fiumi ,’ Naples, 1812, 3 vols. 8vo., with all their faults and omissions, are still the best geographical accounts of the king- dom. A new improved edition is in course of preparation. The ‘ Guida di Napoli ,’ 2 vols. 4to., published by the government at the time of the Scientific Congress held at Naples in 1845, contains much valuable information with regard to the city of Naples and its neighbourhood ; but it is unfortunately full of the grossest blunders. 17 . Maps. Although a trigonometrical survey of the continental dominions was under- taken many years ago, under the direction of the late General Visconti, very little progress has been made in it as regards the publication of its labours since his death, the latter being confined to maps of the capital and its vicinity: eight of these maps are very accurate, and alone can be purchased ; those par- ticularly of the environs of the city, of the Islands of Ischia and Capri, and of Vesuvius, are very beautifully executed. A large map in several sheets was published at the end of the last century by Antonio Rizzi Zannoni, and, for the provinces, it was long the only one that had any claim to accuracy ; but it is very deficient, and the compilation of the French Depot de la Guerre, by Bacler d’Albe, is equally so ; indeed, all the modern map-makers have copied Zannoni’s in their works on Italy. The coasts have been laid down with more accuracy by Captain W. H. Smyth (now admiral), and until lately have constituted its only maritime surveys, if we except some additions to the chart of the Bay of Naples by the Utficio Topografico; since 1856, M. Darondeau, an able hydro- graphical surveyor attached to the French Depot de la Marine, has continued his labours on the W. coast of Italy, as far as Cape Minerva, but no portion has been yet published. His survey of the Straits of Messina and of the Lipari Islands will soon be ready, and is anxiously looked for by navigators, in con- sequence of the errors he discovered in all previous charts of the latter inte- resting volcanic group. As to Sicily, see Handbook of that island. A publication by the late Cav. Marzolla, of the topographical department, consisting of fifteen maps of the provinces of the kingdom, completed in 1853, will be the most useful map-guide of the continental possessions of the Two Sicilies. The details are chiefly derived from Zannoni’s maps, but the author has been enabled to introduce several rectifications, and, what is most important for the traveller, the many roads made since Zannoni’s time ; the scale is zsmv Besides the topographical details, very useful data on the statistics, productions, &c., of each province, have been introduced on their respective sheets. A general road map by the same author has also been re- cently completed. INTRODUCTION. — CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. XXXIX 1042. 1046. 1050. 1057. 1059. 1085. 1111 . 1127. 1130. 1154. 1166. 1190. 1194. 1194. 1197. 1198. 1250. 1254. 1266. 1285. 1309. 18 . Chronological Tables. THE NORMANS, a.d. 1042—1194. I. Counts of Apulia. William Bras-de-Fer, son of Tancred of Haute ville, proclaimed Comes Apulice by the Normans assembled at Matera. Drogo, j i • k +k Humphrey, J nis Dlomeis * Robert Guiscard, eldest son of Tancred of Hauteville by his 2nd wife, and half-brother of William, Drogo, and Humphrey. II. Dukes of Apulia and Calabria. Robert Guiscard, having conquered Calabria, assumes the title of Dux Apulice et Calabrice. Roger Bursa, 2nd son of Robert by his 2nd wife Sigelgaita. William, eldest son of Roger Bursa. Roger, 2nd son of Roger the “ Great Count of Sicily,” and nephew of Robert Guiscard. III. Kings of Naples and Sicily. Foundation of the Monarchy. Roger, having conquered Amalfi and Naples, is proclaimed King. William I. (The Bad), only surviving son of Roger. William II. (The Good), son of William I. Tancred, Count of Lecce, natural son of Roger, son of King Roger. William III., eldest son of Tancred. THE SUABIANS, 1194—1266. House of Hohenstaufen. Henry I. of Naples, and VI. Emperor of Germany, only son of Frederick Barbarossa, succeeding to the crown of the Two Sicilies by virtue of his marriage with Constance, the daughter of King Roger. Constance alone, in the name of her only son Frederick. Frederick II., Emperor of Germany, only son of Henry VI. and Constance. Conrad, second son of Frederick II. Manfred, Prince of Taranto, natural son of Frederick II., first as guardian of Conradin, only son of Conrad, and afterwards as King, on the false report of Conradin’s death ; deposed by Urban IV. ; he was killed at the battle of Benevento in 1266. HOUSE OF ANJOU, 1266—1442. Kingdom of Naples. Charles I. of Anjou, Count of Provence, 7th son of Louis VIII. of France, by Blanche of Castile, and brother of Louis IX. (St. Louis.) He lost Sicily in 1282. Charles II. the Lame (Carlo il Zoppo), son of Charles I. Robert the Wise, third son of Charles II. INTRODUCTION. — CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. xl 1343. Joanna I., daughter of Charles Duke of Calabria, only son of Robert the Wise, who survived him. She married her second cousin Andrew, a son of Charles King of Hungary, who was murdered at Aversa in 1345. 1381. Charles III., of Durazzo, sometimes called “Carlo della Pace,” son of Louis Count of Gravina, grandson of Charles II., and second cousin of Joanna I. He married Margaret, his first cousin, daughter of Charles of Durazzo, who was executed for the murder of Andrew, and granddaughter of Charles II. 1386. Ladislaus, son of Charles III. 1414. Joanna II., sister of Ladislaus. The Durazzo line ended in her. 1435. Renato of Anjou, Duke of Lorraine, succeeded as the heir of Joanna II. in virtue of her will and testament, in opposition to her previous adoption of Alfonso of Aragon. HOUSE OF ARAGON. I. Kings of Sicily, 1282 — 1496. 1282. Peter I., King of Aragon, succeeded to the throne as the husband of Constance, the daughter of Manfred, and sole heiress of the house of Hohenstaufen. 1285. James I. “ the Just,” son of Peter III., abdicated in 1291 in favour of his brother, on becoming King of Aragon by the title of James II. 1291. Interregnum to 1296. 1296. Frederick II., brother of James the Just, died near Palermo in 1337. 1337. Peter II., eldest son of Frederick II., who had been associated in the government by his father since 1321. 1342. Louis, son of Peter IV. 1355. Frederick III., younger brother of Louis. 1377. Mary, daughter of Frederick III., and Martin of Aragon her husband, son of Martin I., King of Aragon. 1402. Martin L, husband of Mary, succeeding on her death without issue. 1409. Martin the Elder (Martin I. of Aragon, II. of Sicily), father of the last king, so that Sicily became again united to the crown of Aragon. 1412. Ferdinand the Just, King of Aragon and Sicily, second son of Eleanor of Aragon and of John I. King of Castile, and brother of Henry III. King of Castile. 1416. Alfonso V., the Magnanimous, King of Aragon and Sicily, son of Fer- dinand the Just, who, having conquered Naples, became II. King of Naples and Sicily. 1442. Alfonso I., formerly only King of Sicily, called the Magnanimous; the heir of Joanna II. by her first adoption, and the heir of the house of Hohenstaufen by the female line, and through it of the Norman kings. He entered Naples on June 2nd, 1442, and expelled Renato d’Anjou from the kingdom. At his death Naples and Sicily were again divided. III. Kings of Sicily. 1458. John II., King of Aragon and Navarre, second brother of Alfonso. 1479. Ferdinand II. (Ferdinand the Catholic), son of John II. IV. Kings of Naples. 1458. Ferdinand or Ferrante I., natural son of Alfonso I., legitimated by the Pope in 1444. 1494. Alfonso II., Duke of Calabria, eldest son of Ferdinand I. INTRODUCTION. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. xli 1495. Ferdinand II., Duke of Calabria, eldest son of Alfonso II., who renounced the kingdom in his favour. 1496. Frederick Prince of Altamura, second son of Ferdinand I., brother of * Alfonso II., and uncle of the last king, despoiled of his kingdom by Louis XII. of France and Ferdinand the Catholic died at Tours in 1554 ; with him ended the Aragonese dynasty. Partition of the Kingdom, 1500 — 1504. By the Treaty of Granada, signed November 11, 1500, and confirmed by Pope Alexander VI. and the conclave of Cardinals in the following year, Ferdinand the Catholic of Spain and Louis XII. of France agreed to divide the kingdom of Naples between them. The Treaty provided that the King of France should possess the city of Naples, the Terra di Lavoro, the three Abruzzi, and half the revenue produced by the Tavoliere of Apulia, with a confirmation of the title of King of Naples and Jerusalem, which he had previously assumed. The King of Spain, who had for many years been King of Sicily, was to possess Calabria and Apulia, and the remaining half of the revenue of the Tavoliere, with the title of Duke of Calabria and Apulia. The pos- session of the provinces not mentioned in the treaty soon led to a war between the contracting parties. Hostilities commenced in June, 1502, and in little more than eighteen months the French were de- feated in four battles, and by the military genius of Gonsalvo de Cor- dova the whole kingdom became, like Sicily, a Spanish possession. Viceroys. 1502. Gonsalvo de Cordova, for Ferdinand the Catholic. . The Duke de Nemours, for Louis XII. THE SPANISH DOMINION, 1504—1707. Kingdom of Naples and Sicily. 1504. Ferdinand the Catholic, King of Spain, son of John II. Viceroys. 1 503. Gonsalvo de Cordova. 1507. Don John of Aragon, Count of Ribagorsa. 1508. Don Antonio Guevara, High Steward of Spain. 1509. Don Raimondo de Cardona. Spanish Sovereigns of the Houskof Austria, 1516 — 1700. 1515. Joanna III. (Joan of Castile), daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella; pro- claimed queen on the death of her father, and abdicated in the fol- lowing year in favour of her son. 1516. Charles IV., afterwards the Emperor Charles V., son of Joan of Castile and the Archduke Philip I. of Austria, Duke of Burgundy, son of the Emperor Maximilian I. Viceroys. 1522. Don Carlos de Lannoja (Lannoy). 1527. Don Hugo de Monqada. 1528. Philibert, Prince of Orange. 1 529. Cardinal Pompeo Colonna, Archbishop of Monreale. 1532. Don Pedro de Toledo, Marquis de Villafranca. 1554. Cardinal Pacecco. INTRODUCTION. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. xlii 1554. Philip II. of Spain, the husband of Queen Mary of England, son of the Emperor Charles V. by Isabella of Portugal. ♦ Viceroys. 1555-58. Don Fernando Alvarez de Toledo (the celebrated Duke of Alva). 1558. Don Juan Manriquez de Leon (as the King’s Lieutenant). 1559. Cardinal de la Cueva (as the King’s Lieutenant). 1559-71. Don Parasan de Rivera, Duke d’ Alcala. 1571-75. Antoine Perrenot, Cardinal de Granvelle. 1575-79. Don Inigo Lopez Hurtado de Mendoza, Marquis of Mondejar. 1579-82. Don Juan de Zuniga, Prince of Pietrapersia. 1582-86. Don Pedro Giron, Duke d’Ossuna. 1586-95. Don Juan de Zuniga, Count de Miranda. 1595-99. Don Enriquez de Guzman, Count d’Olivares. 1598. Philip III. of Spain, son of Philip II. by his fourth wife Anne of Aus- tria, daughter of the Emperor Maximilian II. Viceroys. 1599-1601. Don Fernandez Ruiz de Castro, Count de Lemos. [1601-3. Don Francisco de Castro, left lieutenant by his father, the Viceroy, at his death.] 1603-10. Don Juan Alfonso Pimentel d’Errera, Count de Benevente. 1610-16. Don Pedro Fernandez de Castro, Count de Lemos. 1616-20. Don Pedro Giron, Duke d’Ossuna. 1620. Cardinal Borgia (as the King's Lieutenant). 1620-22. Cardinal Don Antonio Zapata (as the King’s Lieutenant). 1621. Philip IV. of Spain, son of Philip III. by Margaret of Austria, sister of the Emperor Ferdinand II. Viceroys. 1622-29. Don Antonio Alvarez de Toledo, Duke d’Alva (grandson of the “ Great Duke ”) . 1629-31. Don Fernando Afan de Rivera, Duke d’ Alcaic. 1631-37. Don Manuel de Guzman, Count de Monterey. 1637-44. Don Ramiro de Guzman, Duke de Medina de las Torres. 1644-46. Don Juan Alfonso Enriquez, Admiral of Castile. 1646-48. Don Rodriguez Ponce de Leon, Duke d’Arcos. 1648. Don John of Austria, natural son of Philip IV. (from January to March). 1648-53. Don Inigo Valez y Tassis, Count d’Onate. 1553-59. Don Garcia d’Avellana y Haro, Count de Castrillo. 1659-64. Count Penaranda. 1665. Charles II. of Spain, son of Philip IV. by his second wife, Mary Anne of Austria, daughter of the Emperor Ferdinand III, Viceroys. 1664-66. Cardinal Pascual of Aragon. 1666-71. Don Pedro Antonio of Aragon. 1671. Don Federico de Toledo, Marques de Villafranca. 1672-75. Don Antonio Alvarez, Marques d’Astorga. INTRODUCTION. — CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. xliii 1675-83. Don Fernando Faxardo, Marques de los Velez. 1683-87. Don Gaspar de Haro, Marques del Carpio. 1688-95. Don Francisco Benavides, Count de Sant’ Estevdn. 1695-1700. Don Luis de la Cerda, Duke de Medina Celi. End of the Spanish, or elder branch of the House of Austria. War of the Spanish Succession, 1700-1713. 1700. Philip V. of Spain, Duke of Anjou, and grandson of Louis XIV. of France, was declared heir of the kingdoms of Spain, Naples, and Sicily by his grand-uncle Charles, the late King. The succession, on the other hand, was claimed by Leopold I., Emperor of Germany, for his son the Archduke Charles, as the heir of the elder branch of the House of Austria. A war ensued, and lasted for 11 years. Viceroys during the War. 1702. The Marques de Vigliena. . The Duke d’Ascalona. THE GERMAN DOMINION. Kings of the House of Austria, 1707-1734. Kingdom of Naples: afterwards of Naples and Sicily. 1707. Charles VI., Archduke of Austria, second son of the Emperor Leopold I., by his third wife Eleonora Magdalen Teresa, Princess of Palatine Newburgh (afterwards the Emperor Charles VI.). Count Daun en- tered Naples with the imperial army, July 7th, 1707. During this reign Sicily was taken froir^ the Duke of Savoy by Philip V. of Spain (in 1713). It was restored to the crown of Naples in 1720 by the war of the Quadruple Alliance, the island of Sardinia being given to Victor Amadeus in exchange, with the title of King of Sardinia. Viceroys. 1707. Count von Martinitz. 1708. Count Daun. •. Cardinal Grimani. 1710. Count Carlo Borromeo. By the peace of Utrecht in 1713 the House of Bourbon was excluded from Italy ; Philip was confirmed as King of Spain, by the title of Philip V. ; Naples was made over to the German branch of the House of Austria ; and Sicily was separated from Naples and given to Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy. Viceroys. 1715. Count Daun. 1719. Count Gallas. ■ . Cardinal Schrotembach. 1721. Prince Borghese. . Cardinal Von Althan. 1728. The Bali Portocarrero. 1733. Count Von Harrach. 1734. Giulio Visconti, Count della Pieve, the last of the Viceroys. xliv INTRODUCTION. — CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. THE SPANISH BOURBONS, 1734. Kingdom of Naples and Sicily. Don Carlos, the younger son of Philip V. of Spain, by his second wife Elisabetta Famese, of the house of Parma, seized the kingdom of Naples, and subsequently that of Sicily. In 1734 he was crowned at Palermo; in 1738 his title was acknowledged by the Treaty of Vienna ; in 1 744 he defeated the Austrians at Velletri, and compelled them to evacuate the kingdom ; and in 1748 his title was acknowledged by the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. His reign dates from the coronation at Palermo, and he may therefore be described as follows : — 1734. Charles of Bourbon VII. of Naples, in order of succession, and by the bull of investiture of Pope Clement XII.; generally called Charles III. by the Neapolitans, as he succeeded in 1759 to the throne of Spain, by the title of Charles III., on the death of his elder brother Ferdinand VI., and abdicated the throne of Naples and Sicily in favour of his third son Ferdinand, then in his eighth year. 1759. Ferdinand IV., third son of the preceding, by the Princess Amelia Wal- burga, daughter of Frederick Augustus King of Poland. By his father’s act of abdication, Ferdinand was proclaimed King of Naples and Sicily by the title of Ferdinand IV. During his minority (17 59— 1767) the kingdom was governed by a Regency presided over by the Prime Minister, Tanucci. 1799. General Championnet enters Naples with a French army on January 23, and proclaims the Pepubblica Partenopea. On the 14th of June of the same year Cardinal RufFo takes Naples, and re- establishes the government of Ferdinand IV. THE FRENCH OCCUPATION. Kingdom of Naples. 1806. On the 14th of January, a French army, under Massena, takes possession of Naples and proclaims King Joseph Bonaparte; Ferdinand retiring to Sicily. 1808. A decree of Napoleon, of July 15, proclaims Joachim Murat King of Naples, instead of Joseph, called to the throne of Spain. THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS. Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. 1815. By the treaty of Casalanza, May 20, 1815, Naples is restored to Fer- dinand, who, by the provisions of the Treaty of Vienna in 1816, assumed the title of 1816 . Ferdinand I., King of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. 1825. Francis I., son of Ferdinand I., by the Archduchess Maria Carolina of Austria, sister of the Emperor Joseph II. 1830. Ferdinand II., the present King, son of Francis I., by his second wife the Infanta Isabella of Spain. Married 1st, in 1832, the Princess Maria Christina, daughter of Victor Emanuel King of Sardinia ; she died in 1836 after giving birth to Francesco, Duke of Calabria, the hereditary Prince; 2nd, in 1837, her Imperial Highness Maria Teresa Isabella, daughter of the Archduke Charles of Austria, by whom he has eight children. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. § 1. Passports. — § 2. Frontier and Custom-houses. — § 3. Money. - — § 4. Weights and Measures. — § 5. Roads. — § 6. Railoads. — §7. Post- ing. — § 8. Diligences and Malles Posies. — § 9. Vetturini. — § 10. Steamers. — §11. Inns. § 1. — Passports. Before the traveller is allowed to enter the kingdom of the Two Sicilies, his passport must hear the visa of a Neapolitan minister or consul. If he arrive by sea, it must he signed by the Neapolitan consul resident in the port of embarkation. This regulation applies even to travellers who may he on their way to Malta or the Levant, and who may wish to land at Naples during the few hours which the steamer may stay on her passage. If the traveller arrive by land from Borne, his passport must not only have been signed by the Neapolitan minister in that capital, but, if he intend to visit any places which are not on the more direct routes to Naples, such as Isola, Arpino, &c., the names of those places had tetter he inserted in the passport , or he may not be allowed to proceed to them. The frontier station, where the passport is demanded and viseed, is frequently at a dis- tance from the Dogana, particularly in the provinces away from the great lines of road. In such cases the traveller will be sent in charge of a gendarme direct to the Dogana, without being allowed to visit any place by the way. These frontier doganas are under the direction of the Giudice di Circondar io, who is subject to the immediate control of the Sottintendente of the district. Any instance of incivility or of excessive authority on the part of the Giudice should be immediately reported to the Sottintendente at the chief town of the district, and, if necessary, to the Intendente or Governor of the province, who resides always in the principal city. These officers are men of education and intelligence, and are always ready to redress any grievance to which the traveller maj^ be exposed by the petty officers of the Dogana. The traveller who enters Naples by land, or by the railway from Capua, is required to give up his passport at the barrier of the city or the railway station, and to name the hotel at which he intends to lodge. In exchange for his passport he will receive a higlietto or printed receipt, which must be presented at the police office within 48 hours. The simplest plan will be to place it in the hands of the landlord of the hotel, who will have the necessary arrangements made. If he arrives by sea, he must present himself at the police-office of the port on landing, and take the usual receipt for his passport (see also under the head of Naples as to means of getting on shore, &c). No stranger is allowed to remain in Naples longer than a week who does not provide himself with a permission to reside ( Carta di Sicurezzd), which is granted xlvi § 1. PASSPORTS. — § 2. CUSTOM-HOUSES. — § 3. MONEY. for two months. It is personal, and is consequently necessary to each individual of a party. The landlord usually arranges this, charging 6 carlini per head, of which 41 grani are paid to the police and 19 to the commissionnaire. Before leaving Naples for a foreign state, the passport must hear the visa of the minister or consul of the country to which the hearer belongs. No fee is charged at the British legation, hut American citizens pay 1 dollar to the United ^tates Consul. To go from Naples to Borne, after the signature of the British minister that of the police is necessary, and afterwards the visa of the Papal nuncio ; last of all, the signature of the minister of Foreign Affairs. A Ictscia-passare for Terracina and for the gate of San Giovanni at Borne ought to he obtained through their hanker in the latter city by persons travelling in their own carriages. On leaving Naples by sea, it is desirable to have, in addition to the visa of the police and the minister, the signatures of the consuls of those countries at whose ports the vessel will touch on her passage. These signatures must he obtained before the Nea- politan minister will grant his visa. The charges upon passports when travelling by steam from Naples to Marseilles, touching at the intermediate ports, are : — British minister, 0 ; Police, 6 carl. ; Papal Nuncio, 6 carl. ; Tuscan consul, 6 carl. ; Sardinian consul, 4 francs, except to passports issued by the British Secretary of State, on which no charge is made ; French consul, 3 francs ; minister of foreign affairs, 1 piastre. The pass- port must be left at the office of the steamer some hours before its departure, in order that the captain may fulfil all the necessary formalities at the Plealth or Sanita office. From Naples to Sicily a guarantee is required from the banker of the traveller before the police will grant their signature, which costs 6 carlini ; the passport must then be signed by the British minister ; and if it be intended to go on to Malta, this is to be specified in the visa of the latter, and the passport must have also the signature of the minister of foreign affairs. The same rule applies to citizens of the United States. Travellers by post to any part of the kingdom must be fur- nished with an order for post-horses from the postmaster-general, which is never granted until the passport be regularly signed for departure, buono per partenza. § 2. — Frontier and Custom-Houses. Travellers are liable to three custom-house examinations between the frontier and Naples, at every one of which a timely fee of a few carlini will save the traveller much inconvenience. By a decree of 1852, which removed the prohibition formerly existing, foreign horses are now allowed to be imported by the payment of a small duty at the frontier, with the exception of a peculiar breed from Dalmatia. Carriages arriving by sea are liable to a heavy duty, in the form of a deposit, but not when arriving by land. Should the carriage remain in the kingdom one year, the traveller must pay 10 ducats more, and when it is exported the fact must be certified to, or the banker who has guaranteed the duty on its arrival will be liable. § 3. Money. The coinage of Naples is arranged on the decimal system. By the law of April 15, 1818, silver was declared to be the basis of the currency, and § 3. MONEY. xlvii | the ducat to be its unit. In accordance with this law, four silver and four copper coins were issued from the Mint — the ducato of 10 carlini, the mezza-piastra of 6 carlini, the tarl of 2 carlini, and the carlino of 10 grani, in silver ; the mezzo-carlino of 5 grani, the cinquina of 2-J, the grano, and the tornese (the mezzo-grano of Naples and the mezzo-bajocco of Sicily). By another law of 1818, three gold coins were introduced ; the oncia nuova or oncettci of 3 ducats, the quintuplo of 15 ducats, and the decuplo of 30 ducats. Before this law was enacted, the gold coin in common use was the pezza of 1783, containing 6 ducats, which was superseded by a decree of 1826, ordering the coinage of a new oncia of 6 ducats, but somewhat less in value. Many of these coins have disappeared from circulation. The ducat especially may be said to have ceased to exist, while the scudo of 1804, containing 12 carlini, has taken its place. The importance, however, of such a coin as the ducat in a decimal system has induced the Government and the bankers to retain it in their calculations. The result is that the ducat is used for bankers’ accounts and for legal contracts, whilst the piastra is used as the medium of circulation ; hence a banker’s note is always calculated in ducats and paid in piastres. Gold coins occur only in small quantities ; indeed it has almost ceased to circulate since the government has refused to accept it in payment for taxes : the traveller will, therefore, do well to refuse it at his banker’s, however inconvenient it may be to burthen himself with silver, especially if going into the provinces. The current silver coins are the piastra or scudo , the mezza-piastra, the tari, and the carlino ; and the copper coinage consists of pieces of 5, 3, 2^, 2, 1, and £ grano. All accounts are calculated in grani. The Roman scudo passes as a piastra, although worth more ; the Spanish dollar, called by the Neapolitans a colonnato, is worth 12| carlini or 125 grani ; the Napoleon is worth generally from 450 to 460, according to the rate of exchange ; the English sovereign is, at the ordinary exchange, worth 572^ grani. It will be convenient to reckon it in round numbers at 580 grani, and consider 4c?. as the value of the carlino. English Sicilian Roman French Tuscan Tuscan Austrian at the Tari, fcCUUl, Francs Florins Lire. Lire Exchange Bajocchi, Paoli, or and Soldi, and and of 580. and Piccoli. najoccni, and Denari. Italian Lire. Cents. Denari. Cents. GOLD. S. d. Pezza, of 1783=6 ducati 20 9 j 60 2 7 4 11 7 0 26 10 19 41 32 7 0 31 00 Oncia „ 1818=3 „ 10 4* | 30 0 0 2 3 7 0 13 05 9 28 15 0 0 14 64 Oncia „ 1826=6 „ 20 9 j 60 0 0 4 7 4 0 25 47 18 57 30 0 0 29 28 SILVER. Piastra =12 carlini 4 1* 12 0 0 0 9 4 8 5 11 3 60 6 0 0 5 79 Ducato =10 „ 3 5* 10 0 0 0 7 9 0 4 35 3 00 5 0 0 4 87 Mezza-Piastra =6 „ 2 Of 5 0 0 0 3 9 5 2 55 1 50 2 10 0 2 43 Tati =2 ,, 0 8 i 2 0 0 0 1 5 8 0 85 0 60 1 0 0 0 96 Carlino =10 grani 0 1 0 0 0 0 7 9 0 43 0 30 0 10 0 0 48 Mezzo-Carlino =5 „ 0 2 1 " 0 5 0 0 0 3 9 0 22 0 15 0 5 0 0 24 COPPER. Grano 0 °T5 0 1 0 0 0 0 8 0 4 0 3 0 1 0 0 5 Tornese, i grano . . . 1 xlviii § 4. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. — § 5. ROADS. § 6. RAILROADS. § 4. — Weights and Measures. The Neapolitan post and mile are considerably longer than those of the Papal States or Tuscany. The mile is exactly the geographical mile of 60 to a degree, equal to 2045'4 yards, or nearly 1| English mile. The post is 8 miles, equal to 9 English miles and 52 yards. The moggio, of 90 tavole, is 35,721 English feet, five moggia being about equal to four English acres. The canna , of 8 palmi, is 82 ’52 inches. The palmo is 10*35 inches. With regard to measures of capacity, the tomolo is 13*735 gallons, nearly If bushels. The barite of 60 carafe is 11 *096 gallons. The salma reale, of 16 staia, is 42*534 gallons. The botle, for wine and brandy, is about 132 gallons. The principal weights are the libbra, of 12 once, equal to 10*31 oz. Troy; the rotolo, of 2 libbre 9| once, about 1 lb. 12 oz. avoirdupois ; the cantaro piccolo, of 150 libbre, about 97 lbs. avoirdupois ; the cantaro grande, of 100 rotoli, about 175 lbs. avoirdupois. § 5. — Roads. The post-road from Rome to Naples, and those from Naples to Bovino, to Venafro, and to Eboli, were the only roads of any length in the king- dom practicable for carriages at the commencement of the present century. During the French occupation some efforts were made, for military pur- poses, to remedy this defect ; but it is only since 1815 that most of the roads we shall describe have been constructed. Many other roads have been since opened, which greatly improve the internal communication of the kingdom, and connect most of the provincial towns of any importance with the capital. All these roads are in good condition. In some the engineering is remark- able ; and many of the viaducts, bridges, and substructions deservedly rank among the good works of their class in Italy. The roads are divided into Consular, Provincial, and Communal , and are under the direction of a ge- neral Board, called the Direzione Generate de’ Ponti e Strade, a dependency of the Ministry of Public Works. The president of this board is called the Director-General, and the other members of it are architects and civil engineers, who have the title of Inspectors-General. There is a fourth class of a few secondary roads called Cammini dd Siti Peali, which lead to the royal palaces in the neighbourhood of Naples. With regard to postal arrangements, the roads are divided into Cammini della Begia Posta, and Cammini Traversi. The former are the high post- roads of Puglia, Calabria, Abruzzi, Rome by Terracina, and Campobasso ; they are supplied with regular relays of post-horses, and the post-office couriers run along them. The Cammini Traversi are all the roads branch- ing off from them, on which there are no relays ; although the postmasters at the last stations will furnish horses to proceed by them, at an increased rate, but fixed by the government. In many parts of the kingdom the only means of communication from town to town is by a bridle-path, or by a kind of drove-road, called via naturale , which has been made by going over the same track for ages, and is practicable for carts and for the light carriages of the country. But tra- velling over such tracks is of course slow and rough. § 6. — Railroads. Two lines are now open, — one from Naples through Portici, Torre del Greco, Torre dell’ Annunziata, Pompeii, Scafati, Angri, Pagani, and Nocera § 6. RAILROADS— § 7. POSTING. xlix to Cava, with a branch from Torre dell’ Annunziata to Castellammare ; the other from Naples to Capua, through Casalnuovo, Acerra, Cancello, Madda- loni, Caserta, and S, Maria di Capua, with a branch from Cancello to Nola and Sarno. Both these lines have trains running every two hours during the day, and at moderate fares. 1. The Portiei and Cava line was the first railway opened in Italy. It was constructed by a French company, and opened in 1839 to Portiei, in 1840 to Torre del Greco, in 1842 to Castellammare, in 1844 to Nocera, and to Cava about 23 miles from Naples in 1856. 2. The Caserta and Capua line was opened in December, 1843, as far as Caserta, and was extended to Capua in 1845. It was constructed at the expense of the royal treasury, under the direction of Major Fonseca. The line passes immediately in front of the royal palace of Caserta. This rail- way will be extended to the Papal frontier at Ceprano, and will connect Naples with Pome ; it is to be opened in the early part of 1860. Several other lines have been approved by the Government, but at present their execution is suspended. One of these is from Naples to Termoli, through Nola, Benevento, and Yolturara ; with a branch from Volturara to Campobasso, Solmona, Popoli, and Aquila, and another from Popoli .to Pescara, and thence along the Adriatic to Ascoli. Another has been proposed to Salerno, Melfi, Gravina, and Taranto, with a shorter branch from Gravina to Potenza. Many years will elapse before these lines are carried out, in consequence of the onerous conditions imposed on the companies : indeed, from present appearances, only that to Ceprano is likely to be made. § 7. — Posting. The posting-system of Naples forms a department of the post-office administration, under the name of the Amministrazione Generate delle Poste e Procacci. The whole department is under the control of the Minister of Finance, and is managed by a central board consisting of a director-general, generally a nobleman, an inspector-general, and a general secretary. The provincial directors and the postmasters are appointed by this board, and are responsible to it for the due performance of their duties. The posting arrangements are excellent ; and the rate of travelling is distinguished by its rapidity compared with that which prevails in other states of Italy. The postmasters are not allowed to supply post-horses without a written permission from the Director-General in Naples, from a provincial director, or some authorised officer of the department. This permission is granted immediately on the production of the passport regu- larly signed for departure. In each post-house where relays of horses are kept ( Relievo ), the postmaster is bound to keep a Register for the use of tra- vellers, the pages of which must be numbered by the secretary-general. In this book ( Pegistro ) the traveller has a right to enter any complaint which he may have occasion to prefer against the postmaster or postilions of the pre- ceding stage. The postmaster is bound to submit this Register every even- ing at the office of the local director or other post-office authority resident in the town, or at the end of every week if there be no such officer in the place. [& Italy . ] c 1 § 7 . POSTING. It is the duty of the director to see that this is regularly done, to make extracts and notes of the complaints entered by travellers, and to transmit them, at the earliest opportunity, to the Central Board at Naples. Any attempt on the part of the postmasters to alter, erase, or tamper with the Register, and any failure to present the hook at the prescribed time, is punishable by law. The traveller who orders post-horses, and changes his mind after they have reached his door, must pay half the course, reckoned at the rate of an ordinary post, and half the buonamano payable to the postillion. If the horses be kept waiting beyond the time appointed for their arrival, the traveller must pay, in addition to the regular charges of the course, a quarter part of such charges for every hour of the delay. The postmasters and the postillions are required, by a general order of the Director-General, to treat travellers with respect, to serve them with attention and celerity, and to demand no more than the amount fixed by the tariff. They are also ordered not to importune for any kind of payment the passengers in the public diligences or in the carriages of the letter couriers. The postmasters are bound to supply horses to the post in pre- ference to private travellers ; but when there is a want of horses at any station where the traveller desires to begin his journey, and when such want arises from the neglect of the postmaster, the local director, or post- office authority on the spot, has power to hire horses to supply the de- ficiency, and to charge the postmaster with any sum which may be paid for their hire over and above the tariff price. In the event of there being no relay of horses at any station in the middle of a journey, the postmaster of the next station is bound to supply horses to carry on the traveller to the two following stages if necessary, an hour being allowed at each stage for rest and refreshment, with an additional charge of half a post for the second stage, and any other privileges belonging to such stage in the shape of extra hprses, &c. But the postillions are expressly forbidden to pass the post-house which terminates each stage unless they are furnished with a written declaration from the postmaster that there are no horses. If the traveller, on arriving by post at any station on the main road, desire to diverge into a cammino traverso, the postmaster cannot refuse to supply horses for the purpose, provided the place to which the traveller wishes to proceed be not distant more than two posts from the main road. With regard to carriages, the regulations do not differ materially from those in force in the other Italian states. The number of persons in the vehicle in every case decides the number of the horses. Cabriolets and other carriages of the country with two wheels are allowed to travel with two horses, if the number of persons do not exceed two, although they may have a trunk as well as an imperial ; but if they are three in number, the carriage must have three horses, whether they have a trunk and im- perial or not. For a small four-wheeled chaise, such as the carrettella of the country, containing one person only, with the luggage we have speci- fied, two horses must be taken ; and when the number of travellers is two, or even four, three horses are enforced. For a large four-wheeled carriage with a head, containing two persons, with a trunk and an imperial, three horses must be taken ; and when there are three or four persons, four horses and two postilions will be enforced. For a close four-wheeled travelling carriage containing four persons with the same amount of lug- li § 7. POSTING. gage, four horses and two postilions are ordered ; and when it contains five or more persons, six horses and three postilions must be taken. Whenever an extra horse is allowed for any stage, the postmaster is au- thorized to attach one horse for every pair in the carriage. A child of 7 years of age or less is not counted, but two such children are counted as one person. The following is the tariff for the ordinary posts on the five great roads : Each horse, whether for draught or saddle Postilion, for each horse - It is usual to give the postilion, if he has driven well, 3 carlini in addition to the allowance fixed by the tariff. Ostler (stalliere), for every pair - The first post out of Naples, being a royal post, is charged half a post extra, and the ostler’s buonamano is 10 grani instead of 5. Carriage with two places, furnished by a post- 1 master ------ 1 Carriage with four places and four wheels) furnished by the postmaster - An express - - - Ditto on the Roman road - - - When post-horses are supplied by the postmasters of the great roads for a cammino traverso, under the regulations mentioned, the tariff is : — Each horse - -- -- -- 90 grani per post. Postilion, for each horse ----- 20 ditto ditto The distances on these cammini traversi are given in the official Tariffa delle Poste de ’ Cavalli, or Post Book. 65 grani per post. 1 5 ditto ditto 5 ditto ditto 50 ditto ditto ’ > 100 ditto ditto 80 ditto 120 ditto ditto ditto A convenient arrangement may now be made at the office of the Roman diligences in the Palazzo Gravina, the proprietors of which will furnish the necessary AW-horses to persons travelling in their own carriages as far as Rome, or carriages and horses, according to a tariff, the fares depending on the number of the travellers ; by this plan much annoyance will be avoided from the attempts of the postmasters to put on a greater number of horses than authorised by the regulations to do. For the information of our countrymen, many of whom may adopt this mode of proceeding to Rome, we annex a copy of the newly arranged tariff, as given to us in May, 1858, by the diligence owners. Persons travelling in their own carriages. 1. Open Caleches - - with Closed „ „ 99 M 99 2. Chariots and Broughams „ 99 99 99 3. Berlines and Coaches „ 99 99 9} 4. Fourgons „ 1 to 3 persons - Scudi. - 40 1 to 5 >9 — *■ - 50 I to 6 99 “ - 60 1 to 4 99 — — - 55 1 to 5 99 ” - 60 1 to 4 99 “ - 65 1 to 7 99 _ - - 80 1 to 2 - 40 1 to 4 - 55 All tolls, bridges, fee to stalliere, and extra buonamano to the postilions (4 to 5 carlini in the Neapolitan States, and 4 to 5 paulsin the Roman, for every post and each driver), to be paid by the traveller. lii § 8. DILIGENCES, MALLES POSTES, ETC. — § 9. VETTURINI. Persons travelling in the carriage furnished by the diligence administra- tion, including hire of carriage, all tolls and bridges , greasing , but not the extra buonamano to postilions. Scudi. 1. Caleches, open - - with 2 persons - 45 99 99 9 9 3 ,, - - 50 „ closed ,, 3 „ - - 55 99 99 99 4 „ - 60 2. JBerlines, closed or open „ 6 „ - 84 Should there be a greater number than above specified, ‘ 6 scudi will be made for each person. an additional charge § 8. — Diligences, Malles Postes, &e. The only diligence properly so called is that to Rome, which leaves Naples at 8 a.m. : it is very good, on the French plan, consisting of a coupe, interieur, and banquette ; fares 12 and 11 piastres ; time employed 29 hours, including stoppages at Mola da Gaeta for dinner and Albano for breakfast, arriving at Rome about 1 p.m. Malles-postes or vetture corriere start from the Post-office in the Palazzo Gravina for Rome daily, and on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday — % Lecce and towns of Puglia in 52 hours Carlini. fares 135 Reggio and towns of Calabria 80 „ „ 165 Teramo and the Abruzzi 38 „ „ 90 Campobasso 13 „ 30 Sora 11 ■, „ 25 The Malle-poste for Rome leaves every day (except Sunday) at midnight ; but as it employs 2 nights on the road, it is less expeditious, and more inconvenient, from changing carriages at Fondi, and other stoppages, than the ordinary diligence. The vetture corriere contain 3 or 5 places according to the routes, which can only be secured for the intermediate towns the day preceding their departure, in which case the fares are reckoned at the rate of 5 carlini a post of 8 miles. In addition to these malles-postes, a public conveyance for parcels, called il Reale Procaccio della Posta, is despatched from the post-office for Lecce, employing 60 hours ; for Teramo and the Abruzzi 48 ; for Campobasso 24 ; taking packages for all the intermediate towns. § 9. — Vetturini. The remarks which we have made on the subject of the Roman vetturini in the Handbook for Central Italy apply equally to those of Naples, with this exception, that the vetturini of Naples have long had the reputation of being the worst in Italy. As, however, there are so few roads provided with public conveyances, the traveller to a certain extent is dependent on the vetturino for his means of transit from one place to another, unless he can content himself with the common carriages of the country. In some of the remoter provinces, and especially in the mountain districts, the tra- veller will find it difficult to procure any kind of carriage. He must then obtain horses, one of which, as the sumpter-horse, will carry two port- manteaus, and enable the padrone , who generally travels on foot, to get a lift occasionally. In many of the provincial towns there is a kind of open liii § 9. VETTURINI. § 10. STEAMERS. carriage with two horses, capable of travelling from 5 to 7 m. an hour. The price is from 4 to 5 piastres a day, allowing nothing for the back journey ; for a light country cart with two horses, in which 6 m. an hour may be travelled, 3 piastres for the first day and 2 piastres for the second. For three horses for a long day’s journey, two for the travellers and one for the baggage, the usual price is 4| ducats a day. All engagements with jl vetturini should be drawn up in writing and attested by some person in authority. A vetturino, like all other travelling carriages, pays 1 ducat per wheel on crossing the bridge at Capua. § 10. — Steamers. i There are now 5 lines of steamboats running between Naples, the Italian f ports, and Marseilles,— viz. the Messageries Imperiales, and a private French company’s ; the Neapolitan Compagnia delle Due Sicilie, and Calabro Sicula ; and a Sardinian company. The boats of the Messageries Im- periales, which carry the mails, and are most to be depended upon for j punctuality, sail for Marseilles on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Tuesday’s i boat calling at Civita Yecchia, Leghorn, and Genoa ; the Saturday’s only at Civita Yecchia, and reaching Marseilles on the afternoon of Monday. The | same company’s vessels leave for Malta and the Levant on Monday, from | which they arrive at Naples on Tuesday. The boats of the Compagnia delle Due Sicilie , which are fine and swift, sailing with great punctuality, and having the advantage of deck cabins, leave on Tuesday and Saturday for Marseilles and Genoa ; the Tuesday’s calling only at Civita Yecchia, the Saturday’s at all the Italian ports. The steamers of the other companies are less regular in their arrivals and departures, and are inferior in many respects to those of the Messageries Imperiales, and Neapolitan Due Sicilie Company. The fares, including the table, at present, are as follows : — Naples to Civita Vecchia - 54 and 41 francs. Leghorn - - - - 89 and 64 „ „ Genoa - - - - 120 and 86 Marseilles - - - - - 181 and 128 ,, A diminution of 20 per cent, is made to families consisting of 3 or more, included in the same passport ; and when two vessels sail for the same destination and on the same day it will not be difficult to obtain a reduction in the fares, except from the Messageries Imperiales. Passports must be deposited at the office of the steamer in the forenoon of the day of sailing, to enable the necessary formalities to be gone through at the Police and Health Offices. For Malta and the Levant . — The mail steamer of the Messageries Impe- riales sails every Monday at 2 p.m., calling at Messina, arriving from the Levant on Tuesday. For Sicily . — The two Neapolitan Companies, which are under contract with the government for carrying the mails, despatch their boats for Palermo every Monday and Thursday, and for Messina, calling at the Calabrian ports of Pada, Pizzo, and Reggio, on Tuesdays and Thursdays. [£. Italy. 1 d liv § 11 . INNS. § 11. — Inns. In addition to the information respecting inns given in detail in our accounts of the different towns, we may here observe, as a general rule, that travellers should make their bargain with the landlords on their first arrival. All foreigners make it a rule to adopt this precaution, and for this reason they not only pay about a third less than English travellers, but escape the annoyances and delays of disputed bills. The principal hotels in the capital rank among the best, but also the most expensive. Within the last few years the landlords have lessened one source of cost, by the intro- duction of tables-d’hote and coffee-rooms ; but we are convinced that they will still further consult their own interests by adopting in every branch of their establishments, and especially in the charges for apartments, a scale of prices which will put an end to the reproach that they have the dearest inns in Italy. The third-rate inns of Naples have not the pretensions or the comforts to justify high prices ; and for this reason they are ususlly fre- quented by foreigners, who are less dependent than Englishmen on com- fortable quarters for the enjoyment of travelling. There is perhaps no citj in Italy which offers in itself more inducements than Naples to prolong a. residence ; and we trust that the respectable landlords of the hotels will in future insure the lengthened sojourn of English travellers, by arranging a fixed scale of charges consistent with the known expenses of life at Naples. In the provinces, the towns, and even the cities, are very unequally pro- vided. In some the inns are not inferior to those of the second class in the capital ; in others they are scarcely worthy of the name. In the remote districts the osterie are as bad and comfortless as they were in the time of Montaigne, except that the wooden shutters have mostly been replaced by glazed panels. The cookery in such places is on a par with the accom- modation. The traveller in the mountain and inland districts who can make his own omelet, and instruct the padrona how to cook a dish of ham and eggs, will find these commodities in the highland villages, where even milk and butter are rarely to be met with. As soon, however, as English- men begin to diverge from the beaten track, and make excursions through the beautiful regions to which their attention is directed in the following pages, the inconveniences we have mentioned will gradually disappear. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN SOUTHERN ITALY. ROUTES. Four principal roads lead from the Roman States to Naples : — by Terra- cina, — by Ceprano, — by Rieti, — by Ancona. They all join before arriv- ing at Capua. I. The first of these roads leaves Rome by the Gate of S. Giovanni, and passing through Albano, Velletri,Ter- racina, and Mola di Gaeta, reaches Capua, 129 m. from Rome. It follows in a great part of its course the ancient Via A'p'pia, and presents more objects of classical and historical interest than any of the others. It is the best known of all the routes, and offers the most comfortable accom- modations for travellers. The post from Rome to Naples follows this line, and the travelling on it is excellent. It is also that followed by the public dili- gences between these two cities. As, with the exception of the pass of Itri, there are no mountains on this route, it is the most eligible for invalids, espe- cially in winter. It is, however, some- what objectionable in the autumn, as it traverses the Pontine Marshes ; and care should be taken at all sea- sons by travellers in delicate health to avoid crossing them in the night-time. II. The second leaves Rome by the Porta Maggiore, and, passing by Val- [&. Italy . ] montone, Frosinone, Ceprano, and San Germano, falls into the first 4 miles before Capua, and 109 miles from Rome. It follows the Via Labicana to the 31st mile near Valmontone, and afterwards the Via Latina. There are no post stations on it at present, and the inns are inferior to those on the first route ; to which, however, it is preferable in summer and autumn, as being com- paratively free from malaria. It passes through a beautiful country, it affords an opportunity of visiting the Benedictine monastery of Monte- casino, and it runs so near the Pe- lasgic remains at Alatri and Arpino, and the falls of the Laris at Isola, that the traveller who can spare a couple of days can easily visit them. When the railway between Rome and Ceprano has been completed, and which it will in 1860, this line, com- bining the picturesque sites of Fras- cati, Albano, and Yelletri, will form the great line of communication be- tween Rome and Southern Italy. The most convenient plan will be to go to Naples by the first and return to Rome by the second of these routes. III. The third proceeds through Rieti, and by Civita Ducale, Antro- B 2 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. doco, Aquila, Popoli, Sulmona, Castel di Sangro, Isernia, and Venafro, falls into the second at the Osteria di Caianidlo , 18 m. before reaching Capua. This route, which follows the Via Solaria as far as Antrodoco, is the most convenient for travellers who come from Florence by Perugia, and, after visiting the falls of Terni, wish to avoid Pome. The road is in ex- cellent condition, has relays the whole way from Antrodoco to Naples, and passes through a most beautiful coun- try, often presenting scenery quite of an alpine character. But most of the inns on it are very bad, and the tra- veller must be prepared to undergo a good deal of discomfort. IV. The fourth starts from Ancona, and, following the coastof the Adriatic as far as Pescara, strikes inland to Popoli, where [it joins the third. It is the most convenient for persons who come from the Romagna or the Marche, or who have reached Ancona by steamer from the Ionian Islands or Trieste. With the excep- tion of the fording of some streams between Giulia Nuova and Pescara, the road is in good condition and can be posted the whole way; but the inns are as bad as those on the third route. V. There is a fifth route from Rome to Naples, which is scarcely followed but by some artist or stray tourist disposed to undergo priva- tions and discomforts for the sake of the fine scenery which it offers ; especially as a portion of it can only be travelled on horseback. It leaves Rome by the Porta S. Lorenzo, follows the Via Tiburtina to Tivoli, and after- wards the Via Valeria to Tagliacozzo, and by Avezzano, Civita di Roveto, Sora, and Isola, it joins near Arce the second route. It passes through very wild and picturesque scenery, and affords an opportunity of visiting the Lake Fucino, the Claudian Aque- duct, the source of the Liris, and its falls at Isola ; but there is a great want of inns on it, and those that exist are very indifferent and dirty. We must, however, repeat once for all, that the traveller who attempts to follow any of the last three routes, and especially the fifth, must be pre- pared to submit to some discomfort, and expect few of the conveniences to which he has been accustomed on the great post-roads. It would be advisable that before starting he should procure letters of introduction to some of the resident proprietors. ROUTE 140. ROME TO NAPLES, BY THE PONTINE MARSHES, TERRACINA, AND MOLA DI GAETA. 20§ Posts. Rome to Torre di Mezza Via . . \\ (On returning to Rome this post only charged as l^-) Torre di Mezza Via to Albano . . 1 Albano to Velletri (A toll of 5 pauls is levied on all post-carriages crossing the viaduct between Albano and Lariccia since the suppression of the post station at Genzano : a 3rd horse both ways.) Velletri to Cisterna 1 Cisterna to Torre de' Tre Ponti . 1 \ Torre de’ Tre Ponti to Bocca di Fiume 1 Bocca di Fiume to Mesa .... 1 Mesa to Ponte Maggiore .... 1 Ponte Maggiore to Terracina . . 1 Terracina to Fondi 1^ (In returning from Naples ^ post is paid from Fondi to Portella, but not vice versa.) Fondi to Itri 1 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. O O (A 3rd horse to every pair, but not vice versa .) Itri to Mola 1 (A 3rd horse from Mola to Itri as far as the tomb of Cicero or L’Epitaffio, but not vice versa.) Mola to Garigliano 1 Garigliano to S. Agata di Sessa . 1 (A 3rd horse to every pair, but not vice versa.) S. Agata di Sessa to Sparanisi . . 1 (A third horse to every pair from Sparanisi to S. Agata, but not vice versa.) Sparanisi to Capua 1 Capua to Aversa 1 A versa to Naples 1^ (The ^ post, both ways, is charged for a royal post.) 20J Before leaving Rome passports must be signed by the British consul or the American minister, the police, and the Neapolitan minister. Persons who travel post must obtain an authority for post-horses from the postmaster at Rome. The diligences on this road leave Rome every day, except Sunday, at 7 a.m., and reach Naples in 30 hours. The fares are 1 1 and 12 scudi. The malle poste leaves Rome on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sat- urdays, at 5^p.m., takes two passengers, and reaches Naples in 26 hours. The fare is 1 5 scudi. The administration of the diligences at Rome and Naples will furnish carriages and post horses at a fixed scale of prices for the whole journey, by which the traveller can remain as long as he wishes on the road (see p. li). In a light carriage, travelling post, the journey, from Rome to Terracina, occupies 10 hours, and from Terracina to Naples about 12 hours. Those who wish to sleep two nights on the road should make Velletri or Cis- terna the first resting-place, cross the Pontine marshes in good time on the second day, and sleep at Mola di Gaeta ; they will thus reach Naples easily on 1 the third day. The vetturini sleep two I nights on the road, at Cisterna and | Mola di Gaeta or S. Agata, at each of which there are good inns, arriving early enough on the third day at Capua for the last railway train to Naples, or even at Naples by the high road. Travelling in this manner, Terracina and S. Agata are the breakfast sta- tions ; and as this causes a detention of about 3 hours, the traveller will have time to see everything worth visiting at the former place. The fare of a vetturino carriage from Naples to Rome, with 4 horses, and capable of conveying a family of 6 or 7 persons, is now from 15 to 20 napoleons, ac- cording to the season. The time when the charge is highest is during the spring, when travellers are hurrying away to be present at the ceremonies of the Holy Week, or at its close. The vetturino will engage to pay all hotel expenses on the road at the rate of 6 to 8 francs a-day, but we would scarcely advise persons studying their comfort to adopt this plan, although more economical than paying their own bills. The posting on this road is excellent. Its rapidity between Rome and Terra- cina, and particularly across the Pontine Marshes, is proverbial. On leaving Rome we traverse the Piazza Trajano, skirt the N. side of the Coliseum, and, passing St. John Later an, leave the city by the Porta San Giovanni, and enter at once upon the Campagna. The post-road to Albano, the Via Appia Nova, is of modern , con- struction ; it runs nearly parallel to the ancient Via Appia (on the rt.), but does not join it until it reaches Le Frattochie 11m. from the city.* It is scarcely possible to exaggerate the effect produced by the first two stages of this route. Classical enthu- siasm is not exclusive, for even the * The stations on the ancient Via Appia, as far as Capna, were — Ad Nonam or Tres Tabernse Aricia, Tres Tabernse, Forum Appii, Tarracina, Fundi, Formiae Minturnse, Sinuessa, Capua, La RicciOj. near Cisterna. Foro Appio. Terracina. Fondi. near Mola di Gaeta. near Ponte di Garigliano. Mondragone. Capua. B 2 4 ROUTE 140 . — ROME TO NAPLES. — VELLETRI. most ordinary mind cannot be insensible to the impressions excited by the aspect of the desolate Campagna. As far as the eye can reach, the plain is covered with ruins, pre-eminent among which are the long lines of the Claudian and Anio Novus Aqueducts, spanning the dreary waste with their gigantic arches. These ruins appeal more power- fully to the imagination than any other antiquities of Rome. Their construc- tion bespeaks a grandeur of conception and of purpose, and the desolation of the scene is peculiarly in accordance with the reflections suggested by them. The details of the route from Rome to Nerni are described in the Handbook of Rome. We shall therefore merely mention the different stages of this portion of the journey, and resume our narrative at Velletri. When the railway shall have been opened to Albano and Velletri, the post stations of Torre di Mezza Via and Albano will be suppressed, and the journey so abridged as to enable persons posting to reach Terracina early in the after- noon, and by vetturino in the same day, by, in the latter case, sending on the carriage the day before to Velletri. V} Torre di Mezza Via. 1 Albano. Inns: The Hotel de la Roste, now very good ; and de lassie, very fair. On leaving Albano the road crosses the gigantic viaduct which spans the valley that separates it from Lariccia, and, passing the piazza of the latter town, having the Chigi Palace on the 1., and the church opposite, traverses two smaller viaducts before reaching Genzano. The church and convent between Lariccia and Genzano, at Gal- loro, belongs to the Collegio Romano of Rome, to whose members it affords an agreeable villegiatura in summer. At a short distance beyond Genzano we leave the Comarca of Rome and enter the Legation of Velletri. At the 2 1st m. the road quits the Appian, and makes a detour of several miles to pass through Velletri, but it rejoins the ancient road 2 m. before reaching Cis- terna, leaving on the rt. the picturesque heights of Monte Giovi, the ancient Corioli, and of Civita Lavinia, the pro- bable site of the still more classical Lanuvium. Velletri is entered by a gateway built in 1573 from the designs of Vignola. 1} Velletri. (Inn : La Posta, large, but dirty.) The capital of a Legation of an area of 430 square, m., the population of which, 62,000 souls, is a proof of the deserted and un- healthy character of the marshy dis- trict within its limits. It is the resi- dence of a Legate, and the see of a bishopric conjointly with Ostia. Nearly one-fifth of the population of the province, extending from Genzano to the Neapolitan frontier, is within the walls of Velletri. (12,000 Inhab.) The city is picturesquely placed on the lower slopes of the Monte Artemisio, which forms the N. boundary of the Pontine Marshes. It occupies the site of the Volscian city of Velitrce, whose hostili- ties with Rome date from the reign of Ancus Martins. It was surrounded with a foss and vallum by Coriolanus, and was so frequently in collision with the Romans that they at length, after the close of the great Latin war in b.c. 338, destroyed its walls and transported its local senators to Rome, where they are said to have become the ances- tors of the distinct caste called the Trasteverini. The family of Augustus was originally from Velitree, and Sue- tonius states that the house in which the emperor was born was still shown in the neighbourhood in his time. In the sixth cent. Velletri was occupied by Belisarius, and it subsequently suffered from the Lombard invasion which ruined so many towns on the Appian. In 1744 the hills on the N. of the town were the scene of the battle in which Charles III. of Naples gained a victory over the Austrian army under Prince Lobkowitz, which secured the Two Sicilies to the Spanish branch of the house of Bourbon. Velletri has little to detain the tra- veller. Its mediaeval walls and towers are fast falling into ruin ; and the Museo Borgia, which formerly gave an interest to the city, has been removed to Naples. The lofty campanile of Santa Maria in Trivio, built, according to the Gothic inscription on its walls, in 1353, is sup- ROUTE 140. CORA. 5 posed to have been an ex-voto for the deliverance of the city from the plague which desolated it in 1348, during its siege by Nicola Caetani, Lord of Fondi. From the piazza to the cathedral the street traverses nearly the whole city. The Palazzo Lancellotti, built by Mar- tino Longhi, is celebrated for its marble staircase, its fine terraces and loggia, from which the view over the subja- cent plain and the Volscian Mountains, embracing Cora and Montefortino, is very beautiful. On the rt. hand is the Palazzo Pubblico, in whose wall is pre- served the inscription called the Lapide di Lolcirio, referring to the ancient amphitheatre. The cathedral, dedicated to San Cle- mente, rebuilt in 1660, has a picture of the Coronation of the Virgin, and some legends of saints, by Giovanni Balducci. The columns of its subterranean chapel evidently belonged to ancient buildings. The pictures which covered the walls, many of which were attributed to the school of Perugino, have mostly pe- rished. In the sacristy is the lavamano presented by Cardinal della Rovere, afterwards Julius II., while bishop of Ostia and Velletri. Another eminent bishop of Velletri was Latino Orsini, better known as the Cardinal Laiinus, one of the most learned prelates of the 13th cent., who is believed by some Italian biographers to be the author of the beautiful hymn “ Dies irce, Dies ilia.” Cardinal Borgia, the antiquary, was a native of the city. The ch. of Santa Maria delV Orto has a picture by Gio Battista Rositi, repre- senting the Virgin and Child in a temple, sustained by angels' in Roman costume! It is praised by Lanzi for its colouring. Velletri is ill built, and its streets are narrow and inconvenient. The hill on which it stands is volcanic, several basaltic eruptions being seen in the numerous quarries in its outskirts which supply the paving-stone for the town. The women are beautiful, and their graceful costume adds much to the majestic dignity of their persons. The neighbourhood of the city, as of all the hilly region fromGenzano, is celebrated for its wines. EXCURSION TO CORA AND NORMA. No traveller who is anxious to see the antiquities of Italy will grudge the time' necessary to make an excursion to Cora and Norma, which contain some very important ruins. Cora is 12 m. from Velletri, by a good carriage road. It has a small Aw, -where travellers will find tolerable fare. About midway frbm Velletri the road passes a small lake called Logo di Giulianello, and a little further on the rt. the village of the same name. 3 m. before Cora the road passes at the foot of the peak of Pocca Massimo,. on the summit of which is perched one of the most inaccessible vil- lages in Italy. It is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Arx Carventana. The approach to Cora passes through olive plantations, and commands a magnificent view over the lower por- tion of the territory of the Volsci. On the 1. are the church and convent of S. Francesco, with a fine road used as the public promenade. Cora is situated on a bold hill, presenting from the plain the appearance of a pyramid crowned by the ruins of its ancient temples. Two torrents, flowing through the deep ravines which bound the hill on the E. and W., unite below its W. angle under the name of the Fosso de’ Picchioni, and fall into the Teppia , which empties itself into the Pontine Marshes. The to wn is separated by an olive-grove into two parts ; the upper, which was the site of the an- cient Acropolis, is called Cora a monte, the lower Cora a voile. Cora occupies the site and preserves the name, of one of the most ancient cities in Italy. Virgil and Diodorus mention it as a colony of Alba Longa; whilst Pliny states that it was founded by Dardanus, which would make it one of the oldest settlements in Europe. It was one of the 30 cities which formed the Latin League in b.c. 493. The walls exhibit constructions of four- different periods ; 1st, the irregular rough masses of stone put together in the ordinary Polygonal style, with smaller stones, apparently from the neighbouring torrents, filling up the interstices of the larger blocks ; 2nd, 6 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. CORA. polygonal masses of Pelasgic work- manship ; 3rd, similar polygonal walls, the stones of which are more carefully cut, and adapted with greater precision, marking the best period of this con- struction ; 4th, smaller stones covering the older work, and resembling the style of the time of Sylla. The hill appears to have had three circuits of walls ; the 1st, exhibiting the most ancient style of masonry, is seen at the lower part of the hill; the 2nd, near the ch. of Sant’ Oliva, and by the side of the road to the cita- del ; the 3rd, surrounding the citadel, and exhibiting the workmanship of the second period. The ruins of these three circuits might, according to Nibby, lead to the conclusions — that the most ancient city was situated on the lower flanks of the hill between the Piazza Tassoni and the Porta Nin- fesina ; that the acropolis was built by the Alban colony of Latinus Silvius ; that the Romans enlarged the fortifica- tions of the citadel in the 4th cent, of Rome ; and that the city was restored and the temples added in the time of Sylla. Ascending to the citadel, the first objects are the ruins called, but without any authority, the Temple of Hercules. A portion of the building now serves as a vestibule to the ch. of S. Pietro, which contains an ancient square marble altar, supporting the baptismal font, with rams’ heads and mutilated gorgons. Beyond the adjoining gar- den is the portico of the temple, a beautiful tetrastyle of the Doric order ; the columns, of travertine, retain traces of stucco ; the doorway is narrower at the top than at the bottom, and over it the inscription -m manlius m e l TURPILIUS L F DUOMV1RES DE SENATUS SENTENTIA AEDEM FACIENDAM COERA- VERUNT EISDEMQUE PROBAVERE — re- cords its construction by the Duumvirs of the town. The columns are very graceful and carefully worked, and the style of the building bears a resem- blance to that of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Nibby thinks that the altar in the ch. and the figure of Minerva at the foot of the steps leading to the Palace of the Senator on the Capitol at Rome, which was found among these ruins, prove that the temple was dedicated to Minerva, and not to Hercules, as is commonly supposed. In the descent from the citadel to the lower town masses of the ancient wall are seen on each side, and fragments of capitals and columns built into the walls of private houses. The ch. of Sant’ Oliva has evidently been erected upon ancient foundations, supposed, on the authority of an in- scription, to be those of a temple to Esculapius and Hygeia. In the Strada S. Salvatore is a house built between two columns of the portico of the Temple of Castor and Pollux. The piazza below is supposed to cover the steps leading to the temple. The two columns of the portico resemble in material those of the upper temple, but they are of the Corinthian order, of beautiful work- manship, and of far superior style and execution. The inscription, though mutilated, is sufficient to show the most important facts : . . . m castori POLLVCI DEC S FAC . . . . M calvivs m f p n. In the Via delle Colonnette are fragments of tesselated pavement and Doric columns, and an inscription relating to the ancient cis- terns for supplying the city with water. The Piazza Montagna also contains some broken columns and inscriptions. Below the Via delle Colonnette is the Pizzotonico , marking the position of the ancient Piscina; the walls, ap- parently Roman, are of great extent. On the W. side is a fine specimen of the more ancient walls, formed of huge blocks of limestone. In the Casa Vet- tori are two Doric columns the remains of some temple. Beyond the Porta Ninfesina, on the road to Norba, where another mass of the wall is well preserved, is a mag- nificent ancient bridge of a single arch, called Ponte della Catena , spanning the deep ravine, 75 ft. below the parapet. It is built of enormous square masses of tufa, and is one of the most remark- able monuments of its kind. Its pre- servation without the slightest injury for upwards of 20 centuries is aston- ishing. The present town has 4000 Inhab. A great portion of its modern walls were erected in the 15th cent, by La- ROUTE 140. — -NORMA. — CISTERXA. 7 dislaus King of Naples. It is well ' built and clean, and so high above j the marshes as to be free from the malaria. A bridle-road of 5 m. leads from ! Cora to Norma, the ancient Norba, one of the 30 cities which formed the Latin League. In b.c. 492 it be- came a colony of the Romans, who established it as a check to the in- roads of the warlike Volscians. During the civil wars it was betrayed into the hands of Lepidus, the general of Sylla; but the garrison put themselves and the inhab. to the sword, and set fire to the town, which was never re- built. The ruins are upon the highest point of a rocky ridge, about 1 m. N. of the modern village, and may be seen from the high road between Cisterna and Torre Tre Ponti. The walls are estimated by Sir William Gell 7000 ft. in circuit, and the blocks as varying from 3 to 10 ft. in length. They ex- hibit a fine example of Polygonal con- struction. Four gates may still be traced, of one of which there are consi- derable remains. Within the walls is a large quadrilateral enclosure of poly- gonal masonry, containing channels for the conveyance of water. Wells and reservoirs are found near it, with remains of a temple. The Acro- polis, in the centre of the town, ap- pears to have been surrounded by a triple wall. Subterranean aqueducts, and passages leading to sallyports, have been found under its site. Below the modern village are the ruins of Ninfa , a town of the middle ages, with a dis- mantled castle and monastery. The lake near it is mentioned by Pliny for its floating islands. The little river Nymphceus, which had its origin in the lake, gave the name to the modern town. A road hence falls into the Roman road halfway between Cisterna and Torre Tre Ponti. The post-road on leaving Velletri descends gradually to the plain, and 2 m. before arriving at Cisterna joins again the Via Appia, passing through the extremity of the oak forests of Cisterna, once the favourite haunt of the notorious brigand Barbone. They form a valuable portion of a vast estate extending to the mountains, a feudal possession of the Caetani family. The forest on each side of the road has been cleared for a few hundred yards, to prevent the concealment of robbers. Juvenal’s description of the bad cha- racter of the Via Appia applies in so many particulars to the modem route, that it is an illustration of the invete- racy of habit which Italy affords : — Interdum et ferro subitus grassator agit rem, Armato quoties tutgg custode tenentur Et Pomptina palus et Gallinaria pinus. Sat. m. 305. Before reaching Cisterna some branches of the Fosso delle Castelle, one of the branches of the Astura, are crossed ; and at the 31st m. from Rome some remains of an aqueduct may be seen on the rt., traversing the valley. Cisterna (1700 Inhab. — Inn, La Post a, fair, generally made the first sleeping- place from Rome by the vetturini) stands on the last elevation above the Pontine Marshes. In the middle ages it was called Cisterna Neronis, a name derived perhaps from the works under- taken by Nero for extending the canal of the marshes. The town of Ulubrce, whose inhabitants are called “little frogs” by Cicero, is believed to have stood in its vicinity, but Cisterna is supposed to have risen from the ruins of Tees Tabemoe. The greater part of the town is concealed from the road by the large mansion of the Caetanis. On the other side of the piazza is a vast store for grain grown in the adja- cent country. Between Cisterna and Porto d’Anzio is Campomorto, the scene of the victory gained in 1482 by Roberto Malatesta and Girolamo Riario, the generals of Venice and the Pope, over the armies of Naples and Ferrara, commanded by Alfonso Duke of Cala- bria, and now the centre of one of the largest cattle-farms of the Roman States, belonging to the Hospital of S. Spirito. There is a good view of Norba on the 1., at the base of Monte Gorgoglione, all the way from Cis- terna ; and farther on of Sermoneta, 8 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. PONTINE MARSHES. an interesting town on the declivity of the Volscian Mountains, remarkable for its large baronial castle. Sermo- neta was a feudal possession of the Caetanis, to the head of which family it gives a ducal title. It can be most easily visited from Torre Tre Ponti, from which it is 5 m. distant. 1 1 Torre Tre Ponti ; a solitary post- station, marking the site of Trepontium, — the Tripus of the middle ages. \ a m. beyond this the Ninfa is crossed by a Roman bridge, bearing on each para- pet inscriptions recording its having been repaired by Trajan. The Pontine Marshes, Pomptince Pa- ludes, properly begin here. Their length, from Nettuno to Terracina, is 36 m. ; their breadth, from the moun- tains to the sea, is from 6 to 12 m. The extent of land recovered by the modern drainage may be estimated as covering at least 13,000 acres. Their least accessible swamps are now almost entirely tenanted by herds of buffaloes, wild boars, stags, and wild fowl; and where they are traversed by the high road, a few solitary post-houses, whose inhabitants carry in their livid counte- nances the fatal evidence of malaria, are the only signs they give that man even exists within their limits. Pliny states that 24 cities were once to be found here; and we learn from Livy that the Pomptinus Ager was cultivated and portioned out to the Roman people, Of the 24 cities, several stood upon the mountains and on the coast, where their ruins are still traceable ; so that Pliny’s statement is not a proof that the plain was inhabited. There is, however, no question of the fact that Rome drew her supplies of grain from the Volscian plain ; and the principal plain in the territory of the Volsci being the marsh, there can be little doubt that the marshes in the early history of Rome were cultivated. “ When this district,” says Dr. Cramer, “ was occupied by flourishing cities, and an active and industrious po- pulation was ever ready to check the increase of stagnation, it might easily be kept under ; but after the ambition of Rome, and her system of universal dominion, had rendered this tract of country desolate, these wastes and fens naturally increased, and in process of time gained so much ground, as to ren- der any attempt to remedy the evil only temporary and inefficient. The primary cause of the evil must doubt- less have been the want of a fall in the Pontine plains, for the rivers which rise in the chain of the Volscian mountains bounding the marshes to the N.E., to carry off their waters into the sea, especially as they are apt to overflow in the rainy season. It is supposed that, when Appius constructed the road named after him, he made the first attempt to drain these marshes; but this is not certain, as no such work is mentioned in the accounts we have of the formation of this Roman way. But about 130 years after, there is a posi- tive statement of that object having been partly effected by the consul Corn. Cethegus. Julius Caesar was the next who formed the design of ac- complishing the arduous task; but it is doubtful whether he ever actually began it. It therefore remained for Augustus to carry the plan into execu- tion, which must have been attended with success, for we do not hear of any further works of that kind becoming necessary till the reigns of Trajan and Nerva. Inscriptions are extant which testify the interest which they took in these beneficial projects. The last un- dertaking of this nature, before the downfall ©f the Roman empire, was formed under the reign of Theodoric the Goth, by Csecilius Decius, and ap- parently with good effect.” Boniface VIII., in the 13th cent., was the first pope who attempted to drain the marshes ; Martin V. and Six- tus V. followed his example ; but no substantial benefit was effected until the time of Pius VI., who restored the canal of Augustus under the name of the Lir,ea Pia> and constructed the modern road. The expense of the works is said to have been 1 ,622,000 scudi (about 337,916/.) ; and the annual cost of keeping them up is estimated at 4000 scudi (844/.). For several miles of this route, the road of Pius VI. is con- structed on the Appian. The tall elms on each side give it the appear- ROUTE 140 .— FORO APPIO. — PIPERNO. ance of an avenue, which continues for so many miles in a perfectly straight line that it produces a wearisome effect upon the traveller, which the occasional picturesque scenes on the mountains on the 1. of the marshes are not suffi- cient to counteract. The road for a considerable distance skirts the great canal called the Canale della Botte, the Decennomum of Procopius, originally made by Augustus, and memorable in the journey of Horace, who embarked upon it and proceeded in a boat to Terracina. About midway between Torre Tre Ponti and Bocca di Fiume, the spot still called Foro Appio marks the site of Forum Appii, the station on the Appian way between Tres Tabernse and Terracina. There is a small inn, where a lunch may be procured. It was at this spot that Horace em- barked in the evening on the canal : — Inde Forum Appi, Differtum nautis, cauponibus atque malignis. Sat. i. v. 3. It has a higher interest for the Chris- tian traveller, as the spot where St. Paul first met his countrymen from Rome. “And so we went towards Rome. And from thence, when the brethren heard of us, they came to meet us as far as Appii Forum, and the Three Taverns: whom when Paul saw, he thanked God, and took cou- rage.” Acts xxviii. The road follows the canal all the way to the next station, 2 m. before reaching which a road branches off on the 1. to Sezze (6000 Inhab.), one of the most con- spicuous objects among the mountains on the 1. of the road, occupying the site of the ancient Volscian town of Setia, the birthplace of Caius Valerius Flaccus, the author of the Argonauticon. It was the place where, from its strong position, the Carthaginian hostages given at the close of the second Punic war were confined. The old road from Rome to Naples passed at the foot of its steep hill. The only objects of interest at Sezze are the ruins of a building called the Temple of Saturn, and some remains of the ancient walls. 9 [Before ascending the hill to Sezze, the road continues along its base to Piperno, 7 m. further. It preserves the name of Privernum, the birthplace of Camilla, and famous for its long struggles against Rome ; but the ruins of the ancient city are 1 m. to the N., and in the plain, near the high road leading to Frosinone. The plain of Piperno is situated in the midst of the Volscian Mountains, the pinnacles sur- rounding it being crowned with the picturesque castles and villages of Rocca Gorga, Maenza, Rocca Secca, and Prossedi. 3 m. further S. is the Cistercian monastery of Fossanuova, in which St.- Thomas Aquinas died, on his way to the Council of Lyons in 1274 ; according to Villani, of poison admi- nistered to him by order of Charles I. of Anjou, King of Naples. Its site may be seen from the high road in the valley through which descends the Amasenus. 5 m. beyond Fossanuova is Sonnino ; and in a parallel valley, and 6 m. from Prossedi, San Lorenzo — two villages celebrated for their picturesque female costumes, and notorious as the head- quarters of the most daring bands of brigands that have infested in modern times the road from Rome to Naples.] Returning to the post-road — 1 Bocca di Fiume, a post station. 1 Mesa ; on or near the site of the station Ad Medias, between Forum Appii and Tarracina. On each side of the entrance to the post-house is an ancient milestone, with inscriptions of the 6th year of the reign of Trajan ; and near it are the remains of a large ancient tomb, on a huge quadrangular base cased with large blocks of lime- stone brought from the neighbouring Volscian mountains. 1 Ponte Maggiore , soon after passing which, the streams of the Ufente and Amaseno, the ancient Ufens and Ama- senus, are crossed near their junction beyond Mesa at the 68tli m. The Amasenus is mentioned by Virgil, in describing the flight of Metabus and Camilla : — Ecce, fugae medio, summis Amasenus abundans j Spumabat ripis ; tantus se nubibus imber I I Ruperat ; ille, innare parans, infantis amore Tardatur, caroque oneri timet. — Jen. xt. 547. B 3 10 ROUTE 140. ROME TO NAPLES. TERR AGIN A. The inscription relative to the works of Theodoric on these marshes, which is preserved at Terracina, was discovered here. Midway between Ponte Mag- giore and Terracina were situated in the days of Horace the grove, temple, and fountain of Feronia, quarta vix demum exponimur hora ; Ora manusque tua lavimus, Feronia, lympha ; Sat. x. v. 23. but the traveller will not find any traces of the locality. A fine olive plantation has been lately made on the declivity of the adjoining mountain by Count Antonelli, and forms a remark- able object from Ponte Maggiore. The modern road leaves the line of the Appian at the base of the hill of Ter- racina, the latter running more to the 1., and nearer the base of the mountain. A fragment of it may be seen in a stable nearly opposite to the inn. 1 Terracina (5000 Xnhab. — Inn : La Posta, tolerable, but make your bargain beforehand), the Anxur of the Volscians, the Trachina of the Greeks, and the Tarracina of the Romans, who made it one of their naval stations. Its Volscian name, was retained by the Latin poets, who frequently allude to the beauty of its position : Millia turn pransi tria repimus ; atque subi- mus Impositum saxis late candentibus Anxur. Hor. Sat. r. v, 25. O nemus, o fontes, solidumque madentis arenas Littus, et aequoreis splendidus Anxur aquis. Mart. x. 51. On entering Terracina the traveller will not fail to recognise, in the palm- trees, the orange-groves, the aloe, the pomegranate, and the prickly pear, his approach to the bright and sunny cli- mate of the South. He will find that Terracina is not merely the frontier which separates the States of the Church from the Kingdom of Naples, but the point where a line of demarca- tion may be drawn between the phy- sical characters of the two territories. It is picturesquely situated at the base of the extreme S. point of the Volscian mountains, which here ad- vance so precipitously into the sea as to leave scarcely room for the passage of the road. It is the frontier town of the Papal States, and passports must be viseed by the police before quitting it for Naples. Its bishopric, now united to that of Piperno and Sessa, dates from the ear- liest ages of the church, the first bishop being S. Epafraditus, said to have been a disciple of St. Peter’s, a.d. 46. The high road passes through only a portion of the town, which is situated chiefly on a steep elevation above it, crowned by an ancient monastery ; and higher still are the ruins of the palace of Theodoric. Beyond the inn is a detached mass of rock rising boldly above the road, a conspicuous and pic- turesque object, which forms so charac- teristic a feature in the scenery of Terracina. It was formerly inhabited by a hermit, whose cell may be descried about half up its side. There are few places which present so many memorials of the nations and king- doms which have successively exer- cised their influence on the destiny of Italy. The ruins which we find here recall the Volscians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the Goths ; whose monu- ments still exist side by side with the works of the modern popes. The Cathedral , dedicated to St. Peter, is supposed to occupy the site of the temple of Jupiter Anxur. The beautiful fluted marble columns were taken from the ancient building, together with a marble vase covered with bas reliefs, and a fragment of mosaic. In the Piazza is the inscription relating to the attempts of Theodoric to restore the Appian Way. Above the town are considerable remains of Pelasgic walls and some ancient reservoirs for water ; but the most conspicuous and pic- turesque ruins are those of the Palace of Theodoric on the summit of the pre- cipice. No one who can spare a couple of hours should omit visiting this ruined palace of the Gothic lawgiver. Besides the view, which is very beautiful and extends, on the one side, over the whole expanse of the Pontine Marshes, and on the other, over the coast as far as Ischia, embracing the Ponza islands, the building itself is extremely in- teresting. Many of the corridors and chambers are perfect, and resemble in ROUTE 140 . — TERRACnSTA. 11 their arrangement those of Nero’s Pa- lace in Rome. Near the path leading to it are the ancient quarries, on the side of the cliff, where there are several Roman inscriptions, left by the work- men in former days. The ascent ought not to be attempted without a guide, an office which any of the numerous boys who are always hanging about the inn will readily discharge for a paul. The ancient Port is now nearly filled up with sand, but its massive mole, and the size of the basin, said to be upwards of 3800 feet in circuit, still attest its importance as one of the prin- cipal naval stations of the Romans. The rings for mooring the vessels may still be seen in the S. angle of the har- bour. The palace of Pius VI. is per- haps an appropriate memorial of the immense efforts made by that pope in draining the marshes. It commands one of the finest views on this coast of Italy. A new pier has been lately run out beyond the ancient port, which affords protection to the small vessels frequenting it from westerly winds. Passports are vised at Terracina, for which a fee of 1 paul is paid; and no one is allowed to proceed towards Rome if his passport does not bear the visa of the papal authorities at Naples. The noble promontory of Circe, the Promontorium Circceum of the ancients, now Monte Circello, is a perpendicular mass of limestone, almost isolated at the extremity of the Pontine Marshes. It may be easily visited from Terra- cina. The distance to San Felice by the road which runs close to the sea- shore is 10 m. There are few spots in this part of Italy which are more fa- mous in ancient poetry than this pro- montory, regarded by the Romans as the fabulous island of Circe. Rroxima Cir casas raduntur littora terras, Dives inaccessos ubi Solis filia lucos Assiduo resonat cantu, teclisque superbis Urit odoratam noctuma in lumina cedrum, Arguto tenues percurrens pectine telas. Hinc exaudiri gemitus, irseque leonum Yincla recusantum et sera sub nocte ruden- tum ; Setigerique sues, atque in prsesepibus ursi Sa&vire, ac formas magnorum ululare luporum ; Quos hominum ex facie Dea saeva potentibus herbis Induerat Circe in vultus ac tecta ferarum. Quae ne monstra pii paterentur talia Troes Delati in portus, neu litora dira subirent, Neptunus ventis implevit vela secundis, Atque fugam dedit, et piaster vada fervida vexit. Yiko. Aen. vii. 10. On the summit of the mountain, which commands one of the most striking prospects in Italy, some ruins may still be traced, which are believed to be the re- mains of a Temple of the Sun, or, more probably, of the ancient citadel. The city of Circceii, one of those captured by Coriolanus, which was in existence in the time of Cicero and was the scene of the exile of Lepidus, is supposed to have been situated either at San Felice on the S. side of the promontory, or in the neighbourhood of Torre di Paola on the W. Ruins are still visible at both places. From the agreeable posi- tion of this city near the sea, and the facilities it afforded for huntings the wild boar, it was the frequent residence of many eminent Romans. Polybius mentions his having often enjoyed the boar-hunt in its neighbourhood. It was one of the favourite retreats of Cicero, of Atticus, and, in later times, of Tiberius and Domitian. Among the Roman epicures it was famous for its oysters : — Circgeis nata forent, an Lucrinum ad saxum, Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu. Juv. Sat. iv. 140 . Ostrea Circaeis, Miseno oriuntur echini. Hoe. -Sat. ii. iv. 33. A large cavern called the Grotta della Maga deserves a visit. It is cele- brated for its stalactites. On leaving Terracina, the road, following the Appian, skirts the base of the mountains, which advance so precipitously into the sea that there is merely room for the road. This narrow pass is the Lautuloe , where a battle was fought between the Romans and the Samnites, b.c. 315 ; in the second Punic war, it was the stronghold of Fabius Maximus, who held the defile, and prevented the passage of Hannibal by the Appian. About ^ m. to the 1. on the slope of the hills is the Petiro, a convent of Zoccolanti friars, supposed to stand on the site of a villa where the Emperor Galba was born. The lake on the rt., called Lago di Fondi, is the Lacus Fundanus, or Amy~ 12 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. — FONDI. clanus. The latter name was derived from the city of Amyclce, which stood on the plain between the lake and the sea. Its foundation was ascribed to a band of Laconians ; who, according to Pliny and Servius, were compelled to abandon it by swarms of serpents. Other writers refer to this city the legend of the destruction of the Laco- nian Amy else in consequence of the silence imposed by law upon the in- hab. as a punishment for numerous false alarms of invasion. When the enemy at length came, no one dared to announce their approach. This view is favoured by the epithet of tacitce Amy- clce applied to it by Virgil. On either side of the road, after leaving Ter- racina, may be seen the remains of numerous Roman tombs. The papal frontier is . crossed at the Torre dell’ Epitaffio. About 4 m. from Terracina, and 2 m. farther, we reach the tower called Torre de Confini (66 m. from Naples), or La Portella, from the arched gate- way under which the road passes, a small castle with bastions, which is the frontier station of the kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Passports are vised here, and the traveller is asked to sign a declaration that he has no contraband articles, which, on being presented at Fondi and Mola di Gaeta with a small gratuity, will prevent any further search. Beyond Portella, on the 1., is the village of Monlicelli , upon a height above. The province of Naples which is now entered is the Terra di Lavoro, one of the most fertile and most interesting districts of the kingdom. Some re- mains of tombs skirting the Appian are seen on the 1. before reaching the gate of lj m. Fondi (5500 Inhab. — -Inn: Locanda Barbarossa, very indifferent), a dirty and miserable town, which retains the site and name of Fundi , celebrated in Horace’s Journey for the amusing importance assumed by the praetor ; Fundos, Aufidio Lusco pr as tore libenter Linquimus, insani ridentes praemia scribe, Prsetextam, et latum clavum, prunseque batillum. Sat. i. 5. 34. Luggage is now very seldom examined here ; a small fee will prevent any interference. The family of Livia, the wife of Augustus, came originally from Fundi. The main street is built on the Appian Way, and some portions of its pavement have been preserved. The j polygonal walls may also be traced for j a considerable distance, especially on the rt. of the gate by which we enter the town. The principal ch., dedicated | to St. Mary, is in the Italian Gothic ! style, with some round almost Norman arches. The interior is sadly neglected, and has an old fresco and some speci- mens of Gothic mouldings. The cell in the Dominican convent in which St. Thomas Aquinas taught theology I is now converted into a chapel. An ! orange tree which he planted, and a j well called after him, are also shown. I The general appearance of Fondi, and the wild costume and sinister counte- ! nances of- the inhabitants, confirm the ill repute it has borne for centuries, as the robbers’ -nest of the frontier. No two towns in Italy have contributed so many “ heroes” to the army of brigands as Fondi and Itri. In the 16th cent. ! Ferdinand the Catholic bestowed the ! estate of Fondi, with the title of Count, | on Prospero Colonna. The widow of j his kinsman Vespasiano Colonna was I the Countess Giulia Gonzaga, whose I beauty was so remarkable that its fame | had reached even to the Turkish court. In 1534, while she was residing in the castle, Heyradin Barbarossa, the brother of the famous pirate Aruch Barbarossa, the usurper of Algiers, landed on the coast during the night, and attempted to carry her off in order j to present her to Soleiman II. The cla- ! mour of the Turks roused the countess I in time to allow her to escape. She jumped from the window of her bed- room, and fled naked, in the dead of the night, to the mountains, where she concealed herself. Barbarossa, disap- ; pointed of his prize, sacked and de- j stroyed the town, and carried off many j prisoners. An inscription in the church records the event. The Turks again sacked the town in 1594.* The Ccecubus ager , one of the most cele- brated wine countries of the Romans, j seems to have been the low hilly tract j from Fondi to Sperlonga, and border- I ing on the Sinus Amyclanus. ROUTE 140. — ITRI. — FRA DIAVOLO. 13 Ctecubum, et prselo domitam Caleno Tu bibes uvam. Mea nec Falernae Temperant vites, neque Formiani • Pocula colles. Hor. Od. i. 20. The range of hills, the Monte Calvi and M. Furca, extending from Fondi to the sea, produces good wine even in our days. In the neighbourhood of the town are some interesting Roman ruins, a house built on a terrace of polygonal construction, and below it a mass of reticulated masonry, still bearing the name of Varonianus, its supposed owner. On leaving Fondi (from which an additional horse is required) the road for 4 m. traverses the plain, ascending gradually to the foot of the pass leading to Itri, winding up the mountains amidst scenes of a lonely aspect, which seem, both by the natural formation of the country and by the facilities of escape from one frontier to the other, peculiarly fitted to be the haunt of the brigands of both states. During the 16th cent, this pass was the head quarters of Marco Sciarra, the captain of banditti who immortalised himself by the compli- ment he paid to Tasso. It is related by Manso, that Sciarra, hearing that Tasso was on a visit at Mola di Gaeta, sent to offer him, not only a free passage, but protection by the way ; assuring him, that he and his followers would be p'oud to execute his orders. Near the foot of the pass is a fort command- ing the road, and along the ascent stations for the gendarmeria, by whom the road is now well guarded, and there is no danger of this kind. From the summit of the pass a descent of 1 m. leads to 1 Itri (4500 Inhab.), a miserable town picturesquely placed on a lofty hill, and surmounted by a ruined castle. It enjoys the undisputed pre- eminence of being the birthplace of Michele Pezza, better known as Fra Diavolo, a nickname he earned by es- caping pursuit for two years, whilst under sentence of decapitation, prior to his employment as a political agent. In 1799 he, with his band, held the passes from Portella to Mola di Gaeta, and his career was one continued series of wholesale murders. Both he and Mammone , another chief of brigands, notwithstanding their atrocities, were loaded with honours by the Royal family of Naples during the struggle of 1799. In 1806, Fra Diavolo, hav- ing landed from Sicily at Sperlonga, was encountered by a French detach- ment, and defeated. In the hope of finding a way of escape" to Sicily, he remained with a small band for two months, wandering by night from forest to forest to evade his pursuers. At length, wounded and alone, and worn out by want and fatigue, he went dis- guised to seek repose and buy oint- ments at Baronisi, a village near Sa- lerno, where, suspicion being raised, he was arrested, recognised, and con- demned to death. A post-road of 16 m. has been lately opened from Itri to San Germano. [About 8 m. from Itri, by a moun- tain path, is Sperlonga , a fishing village on a little sandy cape. It was anciently called Spelunca from the numerous natural caverns in the rock. It was in one of these caverns that the Em- peror Tiberius, who had here a villa, was saved by the physical strength of Sejanus from the death which the fall of the rocks at the entrance indicted on his courtiers. This cavern is ^m. from the village, and has still remains of seats, divisions, and ornaments in stucco. The path that leads to it by the water-side is bordered with Roman remains. Bar- barossa made Sperlonga a resting-place for a night previous to his attacking Fondi. The best way of visiting Sper- longa is to go by water from Gaeta, a distance of 9 m.j On leaving Itri the road descends the hill amidst vineyards and forest trees. As it approaches the coast the scenery increases in beauty, and clas- sical interest becomes more absorbing. Shortly before reaching Mola the road opens upon the lovely bay of Gaeta, bounded on the S. by its headland, co- vered with bright battlements and villas. In the distance are Ischia and Procida ; and further still we may de- scry the blue mountains which form the E. curve of the bay of Naples, and the well-known outline of Vesuvius. As we advance, a massive circular tower, in the midst of the vineyard on the 14 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. — CICERO’S VILLA. rt., and overhung by a carrouha tree, is a picturesque object in the landscape, and would probably be selected by the artist as a striking feature in every view of the bay from this road, even if it did not possess a higher interest as the Tomb of Cicero. This massive sepulchre too closely re- sembles the other buildings of the same kind on the Appian to leave any doubt as to its real destination ; it consists of two stories resting upon an immense square base, and is surmounted by a small lan- tern with windows. On the hill above the road some vestiges of foundations may still be traced which probably mark the site of the temple dedicated by Cicero to Apollo ; and on the shore, as we shall presently see, considerable remains still exist to denote the posi- tion of the Formian villa. The inter- vening space is now covered with wood and vineyards ; and the locality an- swers so well to the description of Plutarch, that classical enthusiasm may be pardoned for accepting the tradition which supposes this tower to have been erected on the spot where the cen- turion overtook the litter in which the great orator was escaping to the sea-side, and where the champion of freedom fell beneath the sword of the tribune whose life he had saved by his defence. In spite of the apparent probabilities in favour of this building, antiquaries have suggested that the square ruins on the hill above the road are more probably the remains of the tomb. Tra- dition, however, often a better authority, has given this tower the name of Torre di Cicerone. The little suburb of Castellone di Gaeta is supposed to mark the site of Formice, the capital of the Lcestrygones , and the well-known scene of the inhos- pitable reception of Ulysses. Some portions of its ancient walls and a gate- way may still be traced. The wealthy family of Mamurra, who was himself a native of Formiai, had engrossed so great a part of the locality, that Ho- race (who slept there at the house of Murena, the brother of Licinia, whom Mecaenas married) calls it the “city of the Mamurrse ” — Urbs Mamurrarum : — In Mamurrarum lassi deirxde urbe manemus, Murena prsebente domum, Capitone culinam. Sat . i. 5. 31. The line of coast from Castellone to Mola was lined until lately with remains of extensive substructions, terraces, vaulted passages, baths, and grottoes, which appear to have be- longed to different Roman villas. The greater part have been destroyed in transforming the Villa Caposele into the modern villa of the king on the site of the latter — the only portion now visible being included in the gardens below the Albergo di Cicerone, consist- ing of a large hall and about a dozen of smaller rooms. The Formian Villa of Cicero occupied probably the site extending from the royal villa to the gardens of the inn, at the base of which is the little port recently erected by his Majesty. 5 m. Mola di Gaeta. (8000 Inhab. — Inns : the Villa di Cicerone, good and well situated, kept by Giordano, who is not always civil to his guests. It is situated on the hill before descending to the town, and adjoining the Villa Reale; it is one of the best between Rome and Naples, and for persons travel- ling with post-horses can be reached in a day (14 hours) from the former, and on the second for those with vet- turino horses. The view from the windows in front over Gaeta, its for- tresses and citadel, is one of the most lovely in Italy. Albergo della Posia , in the town below and on the sea-shore, is very indifferent.) As the prices at the Mola inns have been frequently complained of, it may be well to make a bargain beforehand. Passports are vised at Mola ; and as it is on the 3rd Custom-house line, luggage may be examined, but this is now generally dispensed with on administering a fee of 2 or 3 pauls. The Formian Villa of Cicero.— The ruins in the grounds of the Villa Capo- sele were until lately the chief objects of interest at Mola. Below the terrace of the inn, which commands a beautiful prospect, the gardens are filled with masses of reticulated masonry, which are supposed to have been the baths of the Formian Villa, the favourite resi- ROUTE 140. GAETA. 15 deuce of the great orator, the scene of his political conferences with Pompey, and the calm retreat in which he en- joyed the society of Scipio and Lselius. It is consolatory to find that, however much doubt may have been raised as to the precise purposes of these ruins, the lapse of two thousand years has not altered the majestic mountains which surround the bay ; the sea still washes the bright beach upon which the illustrious philosopher gloved to ramble ; the Temperatas dulce Formise litus is as mild and lovely as when Martial celebrated it ; and the Etesian breezes during the summer season are still as grateful as when Plutarch wrote his description of the spot. Independently of these associations, the bay of Gaeta recalls the well-known descriptions of Homer, Virgil, and Horace. Local at- tachment has reconciled the scenery of Mola with that mentioned in the Odyssey, and even the fountain of Ar~ tacia , where Ulysses met the daughter of Antiphates king of the Lsestrygones, is identified with one still flowing. The wine of the neighbourhood, so cele- brated by Horace, has not lost its su- periority. Quanquarn nec Calabrse mella ferunt apes, Nec Lsestrygonia Bacchus in amphora Languescit mihi. Hor. Od. nr. 16. EXCURSION TO GAETA AND THE ISLANDS OF PONZA, PALMAROLA, &C. Until lately a pleasant excursion of 4 m. along the shores of the bay, which abound everywhere with the ruins of Homan villas, would have brought us to Gaeta, the ancient Gaieta\ but now all access to it is interdicted to strangers since the king has established his resi- dence there. Before reaching it a long village, called the Borgo, extending along the beach, is traversed, beyond which all strangers are prohibited pro- ceeding. The town of Gaeta stands at the base of a rounded hill, crowned by the tomb of Munatius Plancus, now a fortress, and on a projecting headland, which advances into the sea and forms the N. end of the extensive bay anciently called the Sinus Caietanus, and still known as the Golfo di Gaeta. The W. side of the bay was studded with Roman villas. Scipio Africanus and Lselius were in the habit of retiring there and amusing their leisure with picking up shells on the beach. The port and promontory, to which Virgil has given an immortal interest as the burial place of the nurse of iEneas, are picturesque objects from all parts of the surround- ing country : Tu quoque littoribus nostris, iEne'ia nutrix, JEternam moriens famam, Caieta, dedisti ; Et nunc servat bonos sedem tuus. JEn. vii. 1. After the fall of the Roman empire, Gaeta was one of the three Greek mu- nicipalities which became the refuge of the civilization of Rome. Amalfi, Gaeta, and Naples subsequently ad- vanced to independence on the ruins of the Eastern empire, too enfeebled to offer opposition to the change. Their chief magistrate bore the title of doge, duca, or ipata; their wealthy merchants had ships and settlements in the great ports of the Levant. The' bluff promontory of Gaeta, united to the main land by a low and narrow isthmus, strengthened by walls, and backed by the defiles of the Csecuban mountains, gave to this ancient settle- ment that natural strength which has made it in our own times the key- fortress of the kingdom. The city consequently survived the invasions of the Lombards and the Saracens, and did not lose its liberty until the 12th cent., when it was absorbed, along with the other free cities of Southern Italy, in the Norman conquest. The position of Gaeta is extremely beau- tiful, and its rich orange, lemon, and citron groves give it a peculiarly south- ern character. It is the chief city of a district, and the see of a bishopric. It has 14,000 Inhab., including the gar- rison. The Cathedral contains the stan- dard presented by Pius V. to Don John of Austria, the commander of the Chris- tian army at the battle of Lepanto. The celebrated column with 12 faces, on which are inscribed the names of the 12 winds in Greek and Latin, is one of the most curious monuments in 16 ROUTE 140.— ROME TO NAPLES. — GAETA. the town. On the highest point of the promontory is the circular building which forms so conspicuous an object in the landscape. It is shown by the inscription to be the tomb of L. Mu- natius Plancus, and is now called the Torre d’ Orlando, The other antiquities of Gaeta are the remains of the am- phitheatre and theatre, the vestiges of a temple, and the villas of Scaurus and Hadrian. The beauty of the women is very striking. The Citadel of Gaeta has always been one of the strongest positions in the kingdom of Naples. The castle was enlarged by Alfonso ' of Aragon in 1440. During the invasion of Naples by the French army of Louis XII. in 1501, Gaeta was obliged to sur- render by the distressed circumstances of Frederick of Aragon. In the Avar which arose out of the partition treaty of Granada, it was the last stronghold of the French, and was besieged and cap- tured by Gonsalvo da Cordova, after the battle of the Garigliano,in 1 504. Charles V. built another castle and strengthened the fortifications by the addition of im- portant outworks. In 1734 it was besieged by the Spaniards under the Duke di Liria and Charles III., and dishonourably surrendered by Count Tat- tenboch. During the French invasion of 1798, the fortress, commanded by the Swiss General Tschudy, surrendered at discretion to the army of General Rey ; an event so disgraceful that it Avas regarded as an act of treachery, for the garrison contained 4000 soldiers, 70 cannon, 12 mortars, 20,000 muskets, and supplies for a year. After the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle the fortifica- tions were again strengthened, and the citadel was enabled to sustain the me- morable siege of 1806, which is well known from the operations of our navy on the coast in support of the besieged. At the approach of the French army under Massena, the feeble regency of Naples engaged to give up all the fortresses of the king- dom. The citadel of Gaeta was com- manded by the Prince of Hesse Philip- stadt, Avho answered the summons of the regency by saying that he should disobey their commands for the higher commands of honour and of war. The prince, assisted by the English fleet upon the coast, gallantly held out until the fall of Scilla in July 1*806 ; and on the 18th of that month, after ten days’ continued firing, the fortress honourably capitulated. The palace of the governor was the residence of Pius IX. in 1 850, after his flight from Rome, and has since been much enlarged by the pre- sent king. In the tower of the citadel lies buried the Constable de Bourbon, Avho was killed at the capture of Rome in 1527. The military defences of Gaeta have been immensely strength- ened and extended of late years, and it is now one of the strongest places in Italy. Of late it has formed the favourite residence of the sovereign, and is said to contain 15,000 troops. An extensive line of batteries along the shore encircle not only the old castle but the adjoin- ing hill, and a magnificent Gothic church, dedicated to St. Francesco, is now in progress : seen from a distance — the only way it can be by the traveller — it will form a splendid pile, with its fine front and detached campanile. The royal residence is at the junction of the hill of Munatius Plancus and the fortress or castle ; along the former roads have been carried in different directions, and the Roman tomb, formerly of difficult access, can be reached in a carriage. About 30 miles S. W. of Gaeta are the islands of Ponza, Pahnarola and Zannone , with some smaller rocks. They belong to the district of Gaeta, and have 2000 Inhab. Ponza, Pon- tia , 12 m. in circumference, is the largest. It received the thanks of the senate for its devotion to Rome in the second Punic war. Tiberius banished to this island his nephew Nero, the son of Germanicus, who put an end to his life. It is, however, more interesting as the spot on which many of the early Christians suffered martyrdom during the reigns of Tiberius and Caligula. It gives name to the naval victory of June 14th, 1300, in which the fleet of Frederick of Sicily, under Corrado Doria, was defeated by that of Robert, Duke of Calabria, under Ruggiero di Loria. Palmarola, 4 m. from Ponza, is ROUTE 140. — PONZA. VENTOTENE. 17 the ancient Palmaria; and Zannone,7 m. from Ponza, is the ancient Sinonia. Ponza figures in our naval history as the scene of one of the most spirited achievements of the last war. The island was occupied by the French, and its possession being considered im- portant to our operations, Capt., now Admiral Sir Charles Napier, having under his orders the Thames and the Furieuse, ran under the small mole, which was bristling with cannon, and captured the island without the loss of a man, before the enemy could recover from the panic produced by so unex- pected an intrusion. Sir Charles bears the title of Count of Ponza, conferred upon him by Ferdinand I., in honour of this conquest. These islands, highly interesting to the geologist, have been described by Brocchi, the celebrated Italian geologist, and by Mr. Powlett Scrope. Zannone, the island nearest to Gaeta, is composed chiefly of limestone covered with trachyte ; the limestone being converted into dolomite at the point of contact. The other islands are entirely volcanic, although no trace of a crater has yet been discovered. Ponza is composed of prismatic tra- chyte, accompanied by a semi-vitreous conglomerate, enclosing fragments con - verted into obsidian, pearlstone or pitch- stone porphyry. On this conglomerate the trachyte, which forms the great mass of the island, rests. South of Gaeta, and about midway between this group and Ischia, are the islands of Ventotene and San Stefano, with 750 souls. At San Stefano is the ergastolo or prison for state criminals. Ventotene, the ancient Pandataria, is the island to which three princesses of imperial Rome were exiled. Julia, the only daughter of Augusts, the beauti- ful but dissolute wife of three husbands, Marcellus, Agrippa, and Tiberius, was banished by her father to this island, on account of her dissolute life. Her daughter, Agrippina, the wife of Ger- manicus, was banished to the island by Tiberius, and allowed to perish by hunger. Octavia, the daughter of Clau- dius and Messalina, and the divorced wife of Nero, was banished to Pandataria by the Empress Poppsea, who compelled her to commit suicide by opening her veins, and then ordered her to be beheaded, that she might witness the death features of her rival. Leaving Mola di Gaeta for Naples, the road enters the plain of the Gari- gliano, across which the drive is beau- tiful. 3 m. from Mola on the rt. is the picturesque headland of Scaur o, with its little fishing port. The bridge over the little stream which the road crosses near Mola was the last point at which the French ineffectually attempted to rally after their rout on the banks ot the Garigliano in 1503. [Two m. beyond Mola a bridle path of 18 m. branches off on the 1. to San Germano. Leaving Castellonorato and Spigno on hills to the 1. it crosses the Ausente, a tributary of the Garigliano, and reaches a secluded plain where this small stream rises. Here several re- mains of buildings, and broken marble pillars and capitals, scattered among vineyards and thickets of myrtle, are supposed to point out the site of Ausona , a city destroyed during the second Samnite war by the Romans, who, ac- cording to Livy’s account, put all its inhabitants to the sword — nullus modus cmdihus fuit. In the ch. of S. Maria del Piano, supposed to stand on a temple of Hercules, there are some tombs of the 15th cent. Along the path, for the last 5 m., are considerable remains of an old Roman road which connected the Via Appia and the Via Latina be- tween Formice and Casinum. A gentle ascent, from which there is a mag- nificent view over the bay of Gaeta, leads to Fratte (3000 Inhab.), a village on the ridge of hills. In its principal ch. there are two ancient sarcophagi, and a large marble pedestal with an inscription showing that it was dedi- cated to Hercules. Leaving Rocca Guglielma on an apparently inaccessible- rock on the 1. and passing under the dreary village of Castelnuovo, the path descends to S. Gregorio, beyond which the Liris is crossed in a ferry-boat. Half a mile on the 1. of the path, near the river, at a spot called Terame, are several ruins supposed to belong to | Tnteramna Lirinas, an ancient city of the 18 ROUTE 140. — ROME TO NAPLES. — MINTURNJE. — GARIGLIANO. Volscians. Passing next through the village of Pignataro (4000 Inhab.), where several antiquities have been found, 4 m. further the path reaches S. Germano (Rte. 41).] On the 1. of the road, before reach- ing the bridge over the Garigliano, a long line of arches of an aqueduct are seen stretching across the plain, and the road at length passes close to the theatre and the amphitheatre which mark the site of the city of Minturn^; both close to the post-house. The plain in which they stand, formerly marshy but now well cultivated, although un- healthy, replaces the swamps in which Marius concealed himself among the rushes from the pursuit of Sylla; and the memorable exclamation of the mighty Roman, Homo 1 audes occidere Gaium Marium ? will not fail to command respect for the ruins of Minturnae as long as one stone remains upon another. The town of Traetto (6000 Inhab.), which is seen on a hill on the 1. ^ m. off the road, arose out of the ruins of Minturnse. The Battle of the Garigliano, which has given great interest to this plain, was fought Dec. 27, 1503, on the right bank of the river, a short distance above the point where it is crossed by the present road. The position of the French was not far from the road. They occupied the rt. bank of the river, which is near the heights below Traetto, and less marshy than the 1., among whose swamps the Spanish army under Gonsalvo da Cordova re- mained encamped for fifty days, exposed to all the miseries of the rainy season, awaiting the attack with a constancy of purpose which contrasts strongly with the impatience of the French, upon whom the climate had begun to exer- cise its fatal influence. The French made some show of an attack by carry- ing a bridge across the river from their position, but it was productive of no important, result, except one of the most chivalrous exploits of the Chev. Bayard, who is said to have defended it single-handed against 200 Spanish cavalry. Gonsalvo at last threw a bridge across the river at Suio, and surprised the French in their position, who, already worn out with sickness, fled across the plain to the bridge of Mola, and Gonsalvo at the close of the day was master of the kingdom. Pietro de’ Medici, who, after being expelled from Florence, had become a follower of the French camp, at the first rout of the army embarked at the mouth of the Garigliano with four pieces of cannon, which he hoped to carry to Gaeta, but the crowd of fugi- tives who rushed into the boat was so great that it sunk, and he and all on board perished. 1 Garigliano : a post station. The river Garigliano is crossed by a suspen- sion bridge, erected in 1332. A toll of 2 carlini (8 d.) is paid for each horse in passing it. The Garigliano is one of the important rivers of the kingdom. As the ancient Liris, it separated La- tium from Campania ; and its sluggish stream was noticed by many of the poets : — Non rura, quae Liris quieta Mordet aqua, taciturnus amriis. Hor. Od. i. 31. Before crossing the river, the modern road quits the Appian, which may be traced along the sea shore to Mondra- gone (3000 Inhab.), marking the site of Sinuessa , mentioned in the journey of Horace, who there met Virgil and his other friends : — Namque Plotius, et Yarius Sinuessae, Virgiliusque Occurrunt ; animae, quales neque candidiores Terra tulit, neque queis me sit devinctior alter. O qui complexus, et gaudia quanta fuerunt ! Sat. i. v. 39. On the sea- shore, at a place called La Posta, are remains of an arch, supposed to mark the site where the Via Domi- tiana leading to Pozzuoli branched off from the Appian, and where an arch was erected to Domitian. The road from Garigliano to Sant’ Agata passes over a rich plain for 6 m. until the ascent over the hills of Sant’ Agata : during this part of the road the traveller will have some magnificent peeps up the plain of the Liris, backed, by the snowy range of the Central Apennines. As we ascend towards Sant’ Agata the volcanic rocks of the Cam- pagna Felice are met for the first time — the hills to the rt. being of limestone. ROUTE 140. 3ESSA. 19 and on extending to the sea-shore ending in the rocky promontory of Mondragone. 8 m. Sant ’ Agata, situated near the summit of the pass. ( Inns : La Postci, and the Casa Nuova ; two houses be- longing to the same proprietor ; often the sleeping place of the vetturini between Terracina and Naples. The Casa Nuova, from the windows of j which there is a fine view over the town of Sessa and the hills ofRocca Monfina, ! will be best suited for families.) [Half a mile from Sant’ Agata, from which it is approached by a long high viaduct, and prettily situated among the hills, is Sessa (18,000 Inhab.) ; which stands on the site of Suessa Aurunca , and contains many ancient remains, particularly the ruins of a bridge, still called Ponte Awmnca, and of an amphitheatre. The cathedral contains inscriptions, a mosaic pave- ment, and other antique fragments ; in the ch. of S. Benedetto there are ex- tensive vaults, supposed to be the re- ' mains of a Roman reservoir ; and in the monastery of S. Giovanni there is a crypto-porticus , remarkable for the large size of the stones with which it is built. The hill on which Sessa is situated is a mass of volcanic tufa, in which have been discovered painted chambers, erroneously supposed to have belonged to a city covered by a volcanic eruption. Sant’ Agata is the best place for visiting the volcanic group of hills of Rocca Monfina, lying about 5 m. from it, nearly midway between this road and that from San Germano. The innkeeper at Sant’ Agata will furnish guides and donkeys to visit this interest- ing volcanic region; the ascent will be about 6 m., during which Sessa can be visited, as it lies on the line of road, and if the traveller prefers he can de- scend to Teano on the opposite declivity of the range, still 4 m. farther. The detached hills, which appear to have originally formed the outer edge or en- circling ridge of its great elevation crater, enclose a space nearly 9 m. in circumfer- ence. Within this space are two smaller cones, the highest of which, called Montagna di Santa Croce, attains an ele- vation of 3200 ft., or about 400 ft. lower than Vesuvius. The igneous rocks of Rocca Monfina are remarkable for their large and perfect crystals of leucite. On the summit of one of its highest narrow ridges, called La Serra or La Cortinetta, some fragments of ancient walls built of lava, and massive sub- structions, probably of a temple, are traceable, which have been identified with Aurunca, the capital of the Au~ runci, who occupied this small volcanic district. In b. c. 337 the Aurunci, being hard pressed by the Sedicini, abandoned Aurunca, which was de- stroyed by their enemies, and took refuge at Sessa, which was hence dis- tinguished by the epithet Aurunca .J Leaving Sant’ Agata, we pass through the village of Cascano, situated on a saddle-back of secondary limestone upon the ridge of Monte Massico y ex- tending from the hills of Sessa in a S. direction to Mondragone, and pre- serving the name of a tract which the Latin poets have made familiar by their praises of its wines : — Est qui nec veteris pocula Massici, Nee partem solido demere de die Spemit. Hor. Od. i. 1. The Falemus Ager is considered to be the tract extending from the Massic hills to the Volturno, and including therefore the neighbourhood of Mon- dragone, near which was the Faustianus Ager, in which the choicest Falernian was produced. 3 miles beyond Cascano a road on the 1. leads to Teano, before reaching which, on descending from the heights of La Montagna Spaccata, the view over the plain of the Volturno and the Campania Felice is magnificent. A beautiful drive across a fertile plain leads to Francolisi, a picturesque castle above the osteria. Near this the road crosses the Savone, deeply encased, the Piger Savo of Statius, which has its origin in the mineral springs near Teano ; and 2 m. farther still is the post station of 1 Sparanisi. The village of Sparanisi is at a short distance on the 1. A good road of 12 m. branches off on the rt. to Mondragone from this post station ; close to which the railway from Capua 20 ROUTE 140. ROME TO NAPLES. — CAPUA. A VERSA. to S. Germano crosses. 4 miles from Sparinisi at Lo Spartimento, the upper road from Rome through Frosinone and San Germano falls into this. Before reaching Capua we cross the Volturno (Vultumus) upon a bridge rebuilt by Frederic II., whose statue is placed near the gate of the city.. This river is often mentioned by the Roman poets for the rapidity of its current. As Capua is a fortified town, the formality of having the passports viseed, even though the traveller be merely passing through it, is required. A toll of 4 ducats is exacted for a close carriage, and of 2 for an open one. 8 m. Capua. (10,000 Inhab. Inns : La Posta , very dirty and ill kept ; La Festa and Belvedere, bad and dirty.) It does not stand on the site of ancient Capua, but on that of Casilinum, well known for its gallant defence against Hannibal. The position of ancient Capua is to be sought at Santa Maria, 2 m. distant. Modern Capua was built in the 9th cent., and is the see of an archbishop, who is always a cardinal. It stands on the 1. bank of the Volturno, which forms so extensive a curve as to surround at least two thirds of the town. Its fortifications, first erected in 1231 by Fuccio Fiorentino, were reconstruct- ed and enlarged by Vauban on the modern system. They were remodelled and strengthened with earthworks in 1855, under the direction of a Russian officer. In 1501 Capua was trea- cherously taken and sacked by Caesar Borgia, when 5000 of its inhab. perish- ed by the sword. Near the nunnery a terrace is shown from which many ladies, to avoid dishonour, threw them- selves into the river. Capua now ranks as one of the three military stations of the first class in the kingdom. The Gothic cathedral has preserved some granite columns of unequal size from the ruins of Casilinum, and on the high altar there are two fine co- lumns of verde antico. In the subter- ranean chapel, which is of the Norman times, are a Roman tomb with bas- reliefs and a Pieta, and an Entombment by Bottiglieri, erroneously attributed, to Bernini. The ch. of the Annunziata is supposed to be built on the ruins of an ancient temple. Under an arch of the Piazza dei Giudici , beside the church, are preserved some ancient inscrip- tions, probably from ancient Capua, and a curious bas-relief of Jupiter, Minerva, and Diana, with a representa- tion of a tread-wheel, with men inside working it, from the sepulchral urn of a certain Proseus Redemptor or con- tractor. It was from the Piazza de ’ Giudici that Borgia, while receiving the ransom agreed upon for peace, gave the signal for the massacre. There are two roads from Capua to Naples; one through Santa Maria di Capua, the other through Aversa, which is the post road. The road through Santa Maria is 3 m. longer, but affords an opportunity of examining the ruins of Ancient Capua (Excur. from Naples). There is also the rail- road through Caserta, which is a mode of going to Naples often adopted. The railway station at Capua is immediately outside the gate leading to Naples. The country by the Aversa route to Naples is a continued vineyard. It is marked by its extraordinary fertility, and is reputed to be one of the richest in Europe. 2 m. beyond Capua the road skirts the village of S. Tammaro. 9 m. AvePvSA (IS, 000 Inhab.), founded by the Normans in 1030. It has ac- quired celebrity for its lunatic asylum, the Maddalena, established by Murat, and capable of containing 500 persons. This institution, under the direction of the Cavalier Linguiti, was one of the earliest to throw aside restraints, and to rely on moral influences founded on the basis of occupation and amusement for the cure. The suppressed Celestine convent of San Pietro a Maiella stands on the site of the mediaeval castle which was the scene of the murder of Andrew of Hungary, The husband of Queen Joanna I., by whose supposed connivance he was called out of his bed to receive pretended tidings of great urgency from the capital, and strangled by the conspirators in the garden of the convent. [About 2 miles from Aversa is the village of S. Elpidio, where some ruins still mark the site of the Oscan city ROUTE 141. — ROME TO NAPLES. 21 of Atella, celebrated in the history of Roman literature for the satirical farces called the Fabulce Atellance, which were represented in the Oscan language on the Roman stage long after the Latin was the prevailing idiom. These farces are supposed to have been the prototypes of the performances in the theatre of San Carlino which are so popular in Naples at the present day ; and the Neapolitan Pulcinella is regarded as the lineal descendant of the Oscan Maccus, so well known by the Pompeii paintings. The pedigree of the immortal Punch may therefore date from an antiquity more remote than Rome itself.] The wine of Aversa, called the Asprino, Quel d' Aversa acido Asprino Che non so s’ h agresto, o vino. Eedi. is often prepared and sold as cham- pagne in Italy and in the Levant. On leaving Aversa the road con- tinues to run through a highly fertile country, but it is so flat that it com- mands no view of the bay, and Na- ples is not seen until we are close upon the barrier. 6f m. At Capo di Chino, whence the road is carried down a deep cutting in the tufa hill, the road from Caserta falls into this. The custom-house, or octroi station, is on the summit of this hill, and a small fee will prevent an examination of luggage. \ m. beyond, and near the Albergo dei Poveri, is the Police-station, where the traveller must leave his pass- port, and name the hotel at which he intends to stop ; he then receives a printed receipt ( 'biglietto ), containing an account of certain formalities, which we have described in the Pre- liminary Information. It is customary to give a trifle to the policeman. Should the traveller arrive by railway the formalities are the same. 7 m. Naples. Hotels : La Gran Bretagna ; des Etran- gers ; de V Angleterre ; la Vittoria ; le Crocelle ; de la Russie ; la Ville de Rome ; de Geneve (see p. 64). ROUTE 141. ROME TO NAPLES, BY FROSINONE, SAN GERMANO, AND CAPUA. There are no longer any direct pub- lic conveyances by this road between Rome and Naples ; but a diligence leaves on Tues., Thurs., and Sat., for Frosinone, where the traveller may easily procure conveyances to take him to Arce, where he will meet the post-office malleposte, which runs three times a week from Sora to Naples. Passports must be duly signed before leaving Rome by the British consul, the police, and the Neapolitan minister. If the traveller intends to depart from the straight line to Naples and visit Isola, Arpino, & c., it will be as well to have this stated in the passport, or the Neapolitan police at Arce will not let him go. The most interesting por- tion of this route will soon be traversed by a railway, which a company has en- gaged to complete as far as Ceprano, the papal frontier, in all 1860, whilst that from the latter to Capua and Naples is nearly ready for opening ; it will form a continuation of that from Rome to Alban o, passing near Genzano and Velletri, and falling into the present route near Yalmontone: when com- pleted the traveller in his journey to Naples will thus be able to combine a visit to all the finest sites on the Alban hills, with others to the most interest- ing localities in the countries of the Hernici and Volsci. This route is highly interesting. As there are no post-horses on the road, families wishing to go by it must employ vetturini, or, if they travel with their own carriage, make arrangements with a vetturino owner for horses to convey them to Naples. The charge for a car- riage with 4 horses is about 350 francs ; the time employed 3 days, i. e. as far as Capua. But as there are so many objects which deserve to be visited on the journey, it may be better 22 ROUTE 141 .— ROME TO NAPLES. — VALMONTONE. to hire a vetturino by the day, rather than stipulate that the journey is to be performed within a fixed period, which would not allow sufficient time to enjoy the many beauties of the road. Tra- vellers may always find at Frosinone, Ceprano, and San Germano the com- mon carrettelle of the country, which will convey them from place to place at a moderate rate, and afford the best opportunity for seeing everything on their way. Rome is left by the Porta Maggiore, adjoining which is the Tomb of Eury- saces the Baker. The modern road, the ancient Via Labicana, is travelled over as far as Valmontone, 4 m. be- yond which we enter upon the Via Latina, at the Roman station of ad Bi- vium .* The dreary Campagna begins soon after leaving Rome, and for many miles the ruined aqueduct which spans the plain is the only object to attract attention. On the 1. of the road is the Torre Pignatara, the ruined mausoleum erected by Con- stantine to his mother St. Helena, in which the porphyry sarcophagus in the Museo Pio-Clementino was found. 8 m. from Rome, on the rt., are the extensive farm-buildings of Torre Nova and the plantation of picturesque stone pines, which form so marked an object in this part of the Campagna, and belonging to Prince Borghese. Some miles farther * The Yia Labicana issued from the Porta Fsquilina, and after reaching Labicum, near the station Ad Quintanas, fell into the Yia Latina at that of Ad Pictas. Yet in the Itinerary the two roads, after their junction, are still called Via Labicana. The Yia Latina issued from the Porta Ca- pena of the Servian wall, and from the Porta Latina of the Aurelian, and fell into the Via Appia at Capua. The Stations on it were : — Ad Decimum, Roboraria, Ad Pictas, Ad Bivium, Compitum, Ferentinum, Frusino, Frege! lanum, Fabrateria Aquinum, Casinum, Teanum, Cales, Casilinum, Capua, Ciampini (?). la Molara. Lugnano (?). near Valmontone. below Anagni. Ferentino. Frosinone. Grotto d’ Opi, or Ceprano\?\ Falvaterra (?) Aquino. a S'. Germano. Teanc. Calvi. Modern Capua. Sta. Maria. on the 1. is the tower of Castiglione, which marks the site of Gabii, and a little way beyond the large farming establishment of Pantano, where some topographers place the site of the Lake of Regillus. At the 15th m. we pass on the rt. , on a hill, the half-deserted village of Colonna, on the site of Labi- cum, and which gives its name to the great baronial family who have held it as their fief since the 11th cent. On the 1. was a small dried-up lake, by some supposed to be that of Regillus. The lava which once issued from its margin is quarried for paving stones. 3 m. beyond the Osteria di Colonna, the road to Zagarolo and Palestrina strikes off on the 1. A description of these places will be found in the Hand- book for Rome , art. “ Excursions.” Shortly before arriving at Lugnano, the road leaves the Comarca, and enters the Legation of Velletri. Lugnano is a village of 1000 Inhab. on the site of Dipinte, though some topographers sup- pose it to be the ancient Longianum, from the similarity of the two names. On the rock above it is an old baronial castle, now belonging to the Rospigliosi family. 27 Valmontone (2500 Inhab.; Inn: Loc. del Principe Doria, outside the town, a dirty Italian osteria), the ancient Tolerium (?), may be made the first day’s resting-place from Rome, visiting Palestrina on the way. It stands on an insulated hill of vol- canic tufa, surmounted by an old ba- ronial mansion, and surrounded by the ruins of walls with quadrangular towers of the middle ages. Several antiquities may still be traced, among which are the remains of its ancient walls, composed of square masses of tufa, a sarcophagus of the time of Sep- timius Severus with bas-reliefs, now used as a cistern, and numerous sepul- chral excavations in the rocks in the neighbourhood. Valmontone was a fief of the Conti family, who received it from Innocent III. On the extinc- tion of their line, it passed to the Sforzas, the Barberinis, and last of all to the Pamfilis. Its vast palace, built by Prince Pamfili in 1662, commands a beautiful view. After many years ROUTE 1 41 . ANAGNI. — FERENTINO. 23 of neglect, it has within the last few years been restored and re- occupied by Prince Doria Pamfili, whose eldest son bears the title of Prince of Valmontone. The church, built in the 17th cent, by the Pamfilis, from the designs of Matteo de’ Rossi, contains some pic- tures by Giro Ferri, Brandi, and other artists of the 17th cent. On the hills above the town are the little ch. of the Madonna delle Grazie, of the 11th, and the convent of St. Angelo, dating from the 13th cent. The road on leaving Valmontone passes through deep ravines of volcanic tufa. At the 3 1 st ancient m. from Rome the Sacco is crossed, near which stood the station ad Bivium of the Roman Itineraries. The pedestrian or the artist would do well to visit several interesting places lying off the road, as Cave, Genazzano, Paliano, and others whose picturesque beauty and associa- tions with the history of the middle ages would amply repay the additional time devoted to such an excursion. They will be found described in the “ Excursions from Rome,” Handbook for Central Italy , Part II. 2 m. farther a road branches off on the rt. to Segni, on a height above the valley of the Sacco, the ancient Signia, colonized by Tarquinius Superbus as a check to the Volsci and Hernici. It retains considerable vestiges of its polygonal walls and gateway. On a hill to the 1., about 2 m. off the road, and 41 m. from Rome, stands Anagni (6000 Inhab.), the ancient Anagnia, the capital of the Hernici , described by Cicero in his defence of Milo as a municipium ornatissimum ; and by Virgil as a wealthy city : — quos, dives Anagnia, pascis. JEn. vii. 684. In the middle ages it was the favourite residence of several popes and anti- popes, and the seat of the conclave which, after receiving the furious letter of Frederick II. calling the cardinals the sons of Belial, elected Innocent IV. It was the birth-place of Stephen VII., Innocent III., Gregory IX., Alexander IV., and Boniface VIII. The latter, after his quarrel with the Colonnas, against whom he had launched the most frantic anathemas, was involved in that memorable quarrel with Philip le Bel in which the French clergy obtained their peculiar privileges. Philip was little calculated to submit to the pre- tensions of the Church, and Guillaume de Nogaret, who had demanded that Boniface shouldbe arraigned for simony and heresy, collected a band of mer- cenaries, and allied himself with the forces of the Colonnas. The gate of Anagni was opened to them by trea- chery ; the French and their allies entered the city Sept. 7, 1303, crying, Five le roi de France , et meure Boniface ! At the first alarm the pope had put on his robes, and was sitting in his pontifical chair when the conspirators entered ; his age and venerable appear- ance awed the boldest of their party, and no one ventured to lay hand upon his person. After three days the people recovered from their first surprise, drove out the French, and set the Pope at liberty. Boniface, hastening to Rome, put himself under the protection of the Orsinis, the hereditary enemies of the Colonnas, but was soon after found dead in his bed. Anagni has been a bishop’s see since 487. Its cathedral is of high antiquity, and there are ex- tensive ruins of the ancient city, among which the massive walls of travertine with their phallia, the reservoirs of baths, and some inscriptions, are the most remarkable. 20 m. Ferentino (8000 Inhab. ; the Hotel des Ftrangers, clean and tolerable), on a hill, the ancient Ferentinum , a city of the Volscians, which afterwards came into the possession of the Hernici. In the year 1223 a congress was held here between Honorius III., the Emperor Frederic II., and Jeande Brienne, titular King of Jerusalem, at which the mar- riage of Frederic with lolanda, the only daughter of Jean, was arranged. Considerable remains of its massive so- called Cyclopean walls, built of the lime- stone of the hill, still exist, with four gateways, in a more regular style of masonry than that seen in many of the other Pelasgic cities. The walls may be traced completely round the hill ; some of their blocks are polygonal, others rectangular. The view from the sum- 24 ROUTE 141. ROME TO NAPLES. FROSINONE. — ALATRI. mit is very fine. The bishop’s palace, built upon ancient foundations of a massive character, contains several in- scriptions recording restorations made by Lollius and Hirtius. The Cathedral is paved with fragments of ancient marbles and mosaics. In the little ch. of S. Giovanni Evangelista is a stone, now used as a baptismal font, bearing a dedicatory inscription from the people of Ferentinum to Cornelia Salonina, the wife of the “ unconquered ” Gallienus. The Porta del Borgo has two inscrip- tions, one in honour of Julia Augusta, the other of Marcus Aurelius An- toninus. Near the gate of S. Maria Maggiore is an inscription with pi- lasters and pediment hewn in the solid rock, recording the munificence of Quinctilius Priscus to Ferentinum , the erection of a statue in the Forum by his grateful fellow-townsmen, and the liberal donations which he had pro- vided for distribution on his birthday among the citizens, the inhabitants, the married women and the boys. These gifts afford a curious insight into the customs of Roman life. There are crustula and mulsum (buns and methe- glin) for the grown-up people, with the addition of sportulce (presents of money) for the Decurions, and nucum sparsiones ■ (scattering of nuts) for the boys. The stone is called by the country-people La Fata. 6 m. Frosinone (8000 Inhab. — Inns : Locanda de Matteis , at the foot of the hill, tolerable; Locanda di Na-' poli, halfway up the ascent to the town, very indifferent), the ancient Fru- sino of the Volscians, is the capital of an important Delegation, comprising a superficial extent of 555 square m., and including, with Pontecorvo, 154,500 Inhab. It contains some remains of its amphitheatre. The female costumes at Frosinone are highly picturesque, and are frequently made the subjects of study by foreign artists. Frusino was conquered by the Romans a.u.c. 450, and is mentioned by Plautus in the ‘ Captives,’ and by other Latin writers. fert concitus inde Per juga, celsa gradum, duris qua rupibus heeret Bellator Frusino. Sil. Ital. xn. 530. EXCURSION TO ALATRI AND COLLEPARDO. The best way of making the excursion will be to hire horses or a calesse at Feren- tino, which is 10 m. from Alatri ; and send the carriage to Frosinone, where it can be joined afterwards. The - road to Alatri branches off on the I., 3 m. after leaving Ferentino, — that from Frosinone at the bottom of its hill ; both joining at the Osteria della Ma- donnella. In going from Naples to Rome, the best starting point will be from Frosinone, and the carriage maybe sent on to Ferentino. The ride along the plain is beautiful, the scenery striking, and the country highly cultivated. At Alatri there is a small but miserable inn, the Locanda Teresa ; but travellers should endeavour to procure letters of recommendation to some resident in the town. In recent years an apothecary has shown great civility in procuring proper guides, and even in affording accommodation at his own house, for which a suitable remuneration will be expected on leaving. Alatri (10,000 Inhab.) is one of the most flourishing towns of the pro- vince. It has been the see of a bishop since a.d. 551. Its anti- quity is proved by its ruins. It is one of the five Saturnian cities, the names of which begin with the first letter of the alphabet, — Alatri, Arpino, / Anagni, Arce, and Atina. In the ‘ Cap- tives ’ of Plautus it is mentioned under the name of A Xarptov, though the allusion is by no means complimentary ; for Ergasilus, the parasite and epicure, in announcing to Hegio, the father of the captives, the safety of his son, swears in succession by Cora, Praeneste, Signia, Phrysinone, and Alatrium ; and when asked by his host why he swears by foreign cities, he replies that he does so because they are just as disagreeable as the dinner he had threatened to give him. This remark in the presence of a Roman audience shows that the drama- tist was sure that it would gratify the prejudice of those to whom it was ad- dressed. There may also have been a political meaning, as all these cities took ROUTE 141 . COLLEPARDO. 25 the part of Hannibal against Borne. The citadel of Alatri is the most perfect specimen of Pelasgic construction to he found in Italy. It stands on the crest of the hill on which the town is built ; another wall of a similar construction may be traced round the hill below the present town, which still preserves the ancient gates. The Acropolis is built of polygonal blocks of stupendous size, put together without cement. The gateway is perfectly preserved ; its roof j is formed by three enormous stones, resting on the side walls, which still show the channels for the door. The wall seen from outsicle this gateway is magnificent ; and the lofty bastion, ex- tending into the neighbouring garden, is at least 50 ft. high, and composed of only 15 courses. The walls of Alatri convey a better idea of these extraordi- nary fortifications than any other poly- gonal remains in Italy. The gateway of Alatri resembles the entrance to the Treasury of Atreus, or the Tomb of Agamemnon, at Mycsense. On the op- posite side of the fortress, in a garden, is another passage, the roof of which is of long flat stones, decreasing in size upwards, as the roofs of many cham- bers in the Etruscan tombs. It was either a sewer or a postern. Above the entrance to it is a bas-relief repre- senting the mystic sign of the phallus. Another bas-relief is close to the Porta San Pietro, the principal gate of the modem town. In the walls near the Porta di San Francesco is a sewer about 3 ft. high, constructed, in the form of a truncated cone, about 2 ft. wide above and 1 ft. at the base. At about an hour’s ride from Alatri is one of the most remarkable caverns in Italy, called the Grotto, di Collepardo. The women of Collepardo (1000 Inhab.) are the rivals of those of Alatri in beauty. The bridle-road is very rough, but the worst part of it may be avoided by going round through Yico, which, although longer, is more agreeable. The entrance to the grotto is in a deep valley, through which flows one of the upper branches of the Cosa, a tributary of the Sacco. The descent is steep, and occupies at least half an hour. The cavern is one of the largest in Italy ; it consists of two | principal chambers, from which smaller ones branch off. The length from the entrance to the furthest extremity is 812 yards; it is entirely excavated in the secondary limestone rocks. The roof and sides are covered with magni- ficent stalactites in every variety of form ; but the effect is injured by the smoke of the hemp torches which the guides use to light it up. A mile from Collepardo is a plain at the foot of the mountains which form the frontier of the Papal States. In the midst of it is one of the wonders of Italy, — the Pozzo di Antullo , the most curious object in the district, and much more easy of access than the grotto. It is an enormous pit sunk in the limestone of the plain, nearly half a mile in circum- ference, and not less than 200 ft. deep. Its sides are incrusted with stalactites, and in many places clothed with ivy and creepers. The bottom is filled with shrubs and trees of considerable size, forming a perfect jungle. It can only have been formed by a sudden sinking of the calcareous beds at the surface over an extensive subterranean cavern. 3 m. higher up the valley of Collepar- do is the Certosa di Trisulti, foimd.edin 1208 by Innocent III., and finely situ- ated among woods, backed by the mountain crests of the Cima Botonaria. The ch. contains some paintings by Cav. d’Arpino. A bridle-road leads from Alatri to Isola, passing by Veroli (7 m.), the ancient Vendee , a well-built town on a i hill commanding a magnificent view. 1 6 m. farther is Casamari. formerly a Trappist convent, supposed to derive its name from the villa of Cains Marius, probably the Cirrhceaton of Plutarch, which appears, from inscriptions found upon the spot, to have been situated on the rt. bank of the Liris. 2 m. beyond this is the papal dogana ; and farther on Castelluccio, a Neapolitan frontier station. Leaving Frosinone, the road descends rapidly along the Maringo torrent; 26 ROUTE 141. — ROME TO NAPLES. — CEPRANO. about half-way and upon a rising ground on the 1. is the village of Pofi, in the neighbourhood of which is a small volcanic crater. 12 Geprano {Inn: Locandct Nuova, large and tolerable) is the last town of the Papal States, and passports must be signed before leaving it. The river Liris becomes the Garigliano after its junction with the Sacco, the ancient Trerus, here called the Tolero , about 2 m. below the town at Isoletta. Soon after crossing it, by a bridge built by Pius VI. on the foundations of one of Roman times, passports are demanded and signed at the office of the Neapolitan police ; but the cus- tom-house is at Colie Noci , near Arce, a short distance beyond the frontier. The inscription on the bridge recording its restoration by Antoninus Pius, is a modern copy of one which was disco- vered on the spot. On arriving at the frontier it is usual to send a soldier with travellers from the passport office to the dogana, where luggage is exa- mined. It is prudent on these occasions to give a fee to the police , as the soldier is generally their messenger, and the comfort of the traveller often depends on the character he may give of him. In the middle ages Geprano was for a time the residence of Pope Pascal II. during his contests with the Emperor Henry IV.; in 1144 it was the scene of the interview between Pope Lucius II. and King Roger of Sicily; and in 1272 Gregory X. was met here by the cardinals, on his return from the Holy Land to assume the Papacy. When Charles of Anjou invaded the kingdom of Naples in 1266, the Count of Caserta, Manfred’s brother-in-law, who was left at Ceprano to defend the passage of the Garigliano, retired at the approach of Charles, and the strong fortress of Rocca d’Arce was also treacherously or cowardly surrendered. These events are immortalised by Dante in the Inferno : E T altra, il cui ossame ancor s’ accoglie A Ceperan, lb, dove fu bugiardo Ciascun Pugliese. Inf. xxvnr. 15. About 3 m. from Ceprano, near S. Giovanni in Carico, just within the Neapolitan territory, are some ruins supposed to be those of Fabrateria, a station on the Via Latina , and a Vol- scian city where Cicero tells us that Antony and his friends concocted plots against him, and which Juvenal men- tions as a quiet and cheap country town, like Sora and Frusino. Fabrateria Vetus is supposed to have been on a hill near it, on the rt. bank of the Tolero, where the village of Falvaterra now stands. On the 1. bank of the Liris, nearly opposite Ceprano, at a place called Grotta d’Opi, are also some remains, which are identified with the Volscian city of Fregellce, colonized by the Ro- mans b.c. 328. Hannibal laid waste its territory in consequence of its hav- ing destroyed the bridges on the Liris to impede his passage. Owing to a revolt against Rome it was so far destroyed by the praetor L. Opimius, b.c. 125, that in the time of Strabo it was a mere village. There are four custom-house stations on the Neapolitan frontier beyond Ce- prano : — 1st at Isoletta, on the 1. bank of the Liris ; 2nd at S. Giovanni in Carico , on the rt. bank of the Liris; 3rdatCWfe Noci, near Arce ; 4th at Castelluccio, higher up the valley. Travellers who desire to proceed direct to Naples will not lose time by remaining at Arce, but proceed at once to the inn of the Melfa, the next sta- tion. Those who wish to enjoy beau- tiful scenery, and to examine the re- mains of one of the most interesting cities of the Volsci, are recommended to make an excursion from Ceprano to Isola and Arpino. There is an ex- cellent carriage-road the whole way, and 8 hours are sufficient for the excursion ; so that by leaving Ceprano at an early hour the traveller may visit the falls of the Liris at Isola, the site of Cicero’s villa at Arpino, and return through the latter and Arce in time to reach the inn of the Melfa for the night, or go on to S. Germano, where there is better accommodation. 3 m. Colle Noci, the Neapolitan frontier custom-house on the road to Naples. Leaving Arce and its mediaeval 27 ROUTE 141 . MELFA. — AQUINO. castle on the 1. (Ete. 44), the road pro- ceeds to 6 m. Melfa , a large but desolate and wretched inn, close to the stream of the same name, the ancient Melpis . The road to San German© is excellent. It passes for many miles through vine- yards interspersed with elms and oaks, along a magnificent plain bounded on each side by mountains. On the hills on the 1. is the pic- turesque town of Rocca Secca, the birthplace of St. Thomas Aquinas. The plain below it was the scene of the vie tory of Louis of Anjou and his Floren- tine allies over Ladislaus King of Naples. The young Louis crossed the frontier with an army of 1 2,000 men, on the 19 th May, 1411. The forces of Ladislaus were drawn up at Eocca Secca, awaiting the attack. Louis led his troops in person, and such was their impetuosity that the army of Ladislaus was totally overthrown, and nearly all the barons were taken prisoners. Ladis- laus fled, first to Eocca Secca, and thence to San Germano. At either place he might easily have been made prisoner, if the conqueror had been less anxious for pillage ; but the soldiers were so desirous to obtain money that they sold even their arms to the highest bidder. Ladislaus, on hearing of this result, observed: “The day after my defeat, my kingdom and my person were equally in the power of my ene- mies ; the next day my person was safe, but they were still, if thej chose, masters of my kingdom ; the third day all the fruits of their victory were lost.” Ladislaus sent money to the invaders from San Germano. His troops occu- pied the defiles of the road to Naples, and Louis retired to allow Ladislaus, in spite of his defeat, to become master of the Papal States. Farther on, Palaz- zuolo and Piedimonte , beautifully placed among the hills, are passed ; and as we advance the most prominent object in the prospect is Monte Casino, crowned by its celebrated monastery. [Opposite to Palazzuolo, lj m. on the rt. of the road, is Aquino , the ancient Aquinum, the birthplace of J uvenal, and of the Emperor Pes- cennius Niger, a municipal town of considerable importance, called by Cicero frequens municipium. Juvenal mentions it: Ergo vale nostri memor ; et quoties te Roma tuo refici properantem reddet Aquino ; Me quoque ad Helvinam Cererem, vestramque Dianam Convelle, a Cumis. Sat. in. 318. The whole plain on the N. of the modern town is full of ruins, the most remarkable of which are a de- serted church of the early times of Christianity, built upon the site of a temple of Hercules, and now known as the Vescovado. In the walls are many fragments of triglyphs and Latin in- scriptions. The front is approached by the steps of the ancient temple, com- posed of white marble, and still re- taining the bases of its columns, which formed a portico 60 ft. long. The doorways of the ch. are ornamented with fragments of ancient cornices of great beauty, richly carved with acan- thus leaves. The interior exhibits many peculiarities. The nave is divided from the south aisle by four round arches, and from the north by six. In the walls of the nave are six small round-headed clerestory windows. Six round windows occur in the south aisle, and a lancet window over the altar. The roof has disappeared, and the ground inside the ch., which has been used as a cemetery in recent times, is overgrown with bushes and encum- bered with ruins. Among these are two stone sarcophagi, without covers. In the wall near the door is a bas- relief, with a sitting figure in the middle, numerously attended. All the costumes are Roman. Close to the ch. is the Triumphal Arch, with Co- rinthian columns, through which there is now a watercourse, called the Ri- viera della Madonna del Pianto. Be- yond this, a narrow lane brings us to the other ruins, passing over one of the few remaining portions of the Via Latina ; the pavement is almost perfect. The ancient gateway of the city, now called Porta S. Loi’enzo, is square, and beautifully built with mas- sive stones. The roof is vaulted, and springs from the four angles ; the projecting stones to receive the upper c 2 28 ROUTE 141 / — ROME TO NAPLES. — PONTECORVO. — GERMANO. hinges of the double doors are still perfect. In a line beyond this gate- way are some fragments of the city walls, built of large blocks without cement, the ruins of the Temple of Diana, the ruins of the Theatre, and, further on, of the Temple of Ceres, now called S. Pietro. The Temple of Diana, now Santa Maria Madda- lena, is very massive. Numerous fragments of Doric columns, triglyphs, and portions of the frieze attest its ancient magnificence. The columns appear to have been about 4 ft. in diameter. The theatre was faced with reticulated masonry. Numerous in- scriptions are seen in the walls of the city, many of which appear to be se- pulchral. About 3 m. S. of Aquino is Ponte- corvo, the capital of a small state 10 m. in circuit, with 7500 Inhab., belonging to the Pope. It is situated on the 1. bank of the Liris, and is the see of a bishopric, united to Aquino and Sora. It was founded in the 9th centy. by Rodoaldo d’ Aquino, its first count. It fell under the Normans in the 11th centy., and in the 12th was sold by Robert Count of Cajazzo to the monastery of Monte Casino. In 1389 Boniface IX. took it from the monks and gave it to the Tomacellis, who held it till 1406, when it was restored to the monastery by Innocent VII. In 1469, the army of Pius II. capture.d it on their march into Naples in support of John Duke of Anjou. It was seized in 1758 by Charles ill. Napoleon be- stowed it upon Bernadotte, with the title of Duke. It was restored to the Church, with Benevento, by the Congress of Vienna. In the 11th and 12th cents., Pontecorvo was the resi- dence of several Greek emigrants from Calabria, who settled here and at Aquino, founded monasteries, and used, it is said, the Greek ritual. It has an old mediseval castle, a cathedral, a fine bridge, and a small hospital. Some ruins in its neighbourhood have been supposed to be those of Interamna Lirinas ; but this ancient city of the Volscians is, with better foundation, placed at Terame, 6 m. farther E. near Pignataro,] The cross road from Aquino to San ■ Germano joins the post line near the ■ tower of San Gregorio, under the ; town of Piedimonte. This tower stands ? on Roman foundations, and has many , Latin inscriptions on its walls. , San Germano is not seen until the ; road turns round the base of Monte • Casino, when the imposing ruins of i the amphitheatre, situated close to the , road, open upon our view. ; 10 San Germano (7900 Inhab. — Inns : i Albergo Reale , rather dirty ; and Villa Rapido, outside the town, tolerable) oc- j cupying a part of the site of the ancient Casinum, is picturesquely built at the j base of a hill, on the summit of which stands the old feudal castle, with its ji picturesque towers, which was carried j by storm by the army of Charles of I Anjou. The plain in front of the town is watered by the Rapido, the ancient Vinius. Casinum, a town of Latium, was colonised by the Romans b.c. 312, and is often mentioned during the 2nd Punic War. Hannibal on one occasion ravaged its territory, but did not at- tempt to reduce the town. Its most remarkable ruins are passed on the 1. in entering the modern town from the ' Roman side. The path leading to them from the inn, passing above the present high road, was one of the an- cient streets. In many places the pavement is preserved, and exhibits marks of chariot wheels. The first object that occurs is a building sup- posed to be a Tomb, now converted into a ch. called the Chiesa del Croci- , fisso. It stands on the 1. of the path, I above the ruins of the amphitheatre, j It is a small square building, with four recesses or niches. The roof is arched as a cupola, and, like the walls of the 1 building, is constructed of massive blocks of travertine. The entrance 1 door has been much altered to suit it j i j to the existing ch. Above this are the remains of the | Theatre, built of reticulated masonry. It is entirely ruined ; but one chamber, apparently connected with the stage, I still exhibits the ancient highly polished j t white stucco. The Amphitheatre, below j the tomb, is still an imposing ruin. I ROUTE 141. — MONTE CASINO. 29 Its walls were coated with reticulated masonry. Five entrances are now traceable ; three of these front the road ; on the other side the building seems to rest against the mountain. The seats of the interior have disappeared, and the arena has been converted into a field. It was built at the expense of Ummidia Quadratilla, a matron of Casinum, mentioned in Pliny’s letters. The in- scription recording this fact is pre- served in the museum of Monte Casino. Vmidia. C. F. Qvadratilla, Arnphithea- trvm et Templvm. Casinatibvs sva. pecv- nia. fecit. Nearly opposite, on the banks of the Rapido, are the ruins of the Villa of Varro , of which he has left us a detailed description. M. An- tony made it afterwards the scene of his orgies, as we know from Cicero, who adds : Studiorum enim suorum M. Varro voluit esse illud, non libidinum, diversorium. Quce in ilia villa ante dice- bantur ? quce cogitabantur ? quce Uteris mandabantur ? Jura populi Romani, mo- numenta majorum, omnis sapientice ratio, omnisque doctrina. — Phil. ii. 40. Many of the modern churches are built with fragments of ancient build- ings. One of them contains 12 marble Corinthian columns ; and outside the door of another is a colossal vase, a votive offering of T. Pomponius to Hercules, as recorded in an inscription now almost illegible. San Germano was a place of some importance in the middle ages. The Emperor Otho IV. took it on his inva- sion of the kingdom of Naples in 1210. The cardinal legates of Honorius III. received here the oath of Frederick II. to undertake a crusade to the Holy Land; and his successor, Gregory IX., concluded in it the mockery of a treaty of peace with the same emperor. The town is as celebrated for its foggy climate as Casinum was in former days. . . Nebulosi rura Casini. StL. Ital. iv. 227. The Monastery of Monte Casino is situated on the lofty hill above the town, and is 2£ m. from it. Travellers may visit it and return to San Ger- mauo in 4 hours. It is without ex- ception the first monastic establishment in Europe. Its undoubted antiquity, its interest as the residence of St. Benedict, its literary treasures, the learning and accomplishments of the brethren, all combine to place it above the rivalry of any similar institution. It was founded by St. Benedict in 529, on the site of a temple of Apollo ; a fact commemorated by Dante : Quel monte, a cui Cassino h nella costa, Fu frequentato gia in su la cima Dalle gente ingarmata e mal disposta. E quel son io che su vi portai prima Lo nome di Colui, che in terra addusse La verity che tanto ci sublima : E tanta grazia sopra me rilusse Che io ritrassi le ville circonstanti Dali’ empio culto, che il mondo sedusse. Par. xxii. The Monastery is a massive pile, more like a palace than a convent, but without much architectural pretension, although its great extent and general simplicity make it an imposing edifice. It is entered by a low rocky passage, said to have been the cell of the founder. The courts to which this leads com- municate with each other by open arcades. The centre one is supplied with a cistern of delicious water, and is ornamented with statues of St. Benedict and his sister Sta. Scolastica. A handsome flight of steps leads to the upper quadrangle, in which the ch. is built. In a cloister which runs round it, supported by granite columns from the temple of Apollo, are placed marble statues of the prin- cipal benefactors of the ch. Over the door a Latin inscription records the foundation of the abbey, and its sub- sequent vicissitudes up to the year 1649. The ch. erected by St. Benedict was destroyed towards the end of the 6th centy. by the Longobards, rebuilt in the 8th centy. by the Abbot Petro- naces, burnt by the Saracens in 883, repaired by the Abbot Johannes, and again rebuilt by the Abbot Desiderius in 1065. It was consecrated in 748 by Pope Zacharias, and again in 1071 by Alexander II. It was totally de- stroyed by an earthquake in 1349, and restored in 1365 by Urban V. In 1649 it fell down in consequence of the neg- ligence of the workmen during some repairs. Towards the close of the 17th 30 ROUTE 141. ROME TO NAPLES. — MONTE CASINO. cent, it was once more rebuilt with greater magnificence than ever, in its present form. It was completed in 1727, and on the 19th May in that year it was consecrated by Benedict XIII. The centre door is of bronze, and con- tains, in inlaid silver letters, a cata- logue of all the tenures, fiefs, and other possessions of the abbey in 1066, when the door was manufactured at Con- stantinople, by order of the Abbot Desiderius, who afterwards became Pope by the title of Victor III. The interior of the Church far sur- passes in elegance and in costliness of decoration every other in Italy, not excepting St. Peter's itself. The floors of Florentine mosaic, the profusion of rich marbles, and the paintings, give it an unapproachable superiority. On each side of the high altar there is a handsome mausoleum ; one is the work of Francesco Sangallo, erected at the expense of Clement VII. to the memory of his nephew Pietro de’ Medici, drowned in the Garigliano (page 1 8) ; the other to Guidone Fieramosca , last prince of Mignano. The high altar is rich in precious marbles. St. Benedict and Sta. Scolastica are buried beneath it. The subterranean chapel contains paintings by Marco da Siena and Mazzaroppi, which have suffered much by damp. During his residence at the monastery, Tasso was a con- stant visitor to this chapel. The choir of the ch. is of walnut wood. Nothing can surpass the exquisite sculpture of its flowers, figures, &e. Fifty Corinthian columns, with orna- mental bases, divide the seat§ from each other. The panels forming the backs, 48 in number, are carved in every va- riety of pattern, with flowers, birds, or foliage, and a portrait of some religious character in the middle. The doors of the sacristy and those opposite to them leading to the convent are superb. The two lateral chapels on each side the altar, the Cappella dell' Assunzione, and that of the Addolorata, are perfect specimens of Florentine mosaic, which is lavished equally over the floor, walls, and altar. On the space over the doors is a fresco by Luca Giordano , representing the consecration of the ch. by Alexander II. The Chapel of the SS. Sacramento, and the ceiling of the nave, representing the miracles of St. Benedict and the monastic virtues, are also by Giordano , who has inserted his name with the date, 1677. The chapel of S. Gregory the Great contains a picture of the Saint, by Marco Mazzaroppi, whose principal works are to be found here. The Martyrdom of St. Andrew, over the door in the side aisle, is also by Mazzaroppi. The organ is one of the finest in Italy. The Refectory contains a fine painting of the miracle of the loaves and fishes, by Bassano. The Library of Monte Casino will always have a peculiar interest for the scholar, as the sanctuary in which many treasures of Greek and Latin literature were preserved during the dark ages. Even in the early history of the monastery, copies of the rarest classical MSS. were made by the monks. To the Abbot Desiderius, who greatly encouraged these transcripts in the 1 1 th cent., we are probably indebted for the preservation of the Idyls of Theo- critus and the Fasti of Ovid. The library contains at this time upwards ! of 10,000 vols., among which are some cinque-cento editions of great rarity and value. The oldest MSS. are : — a trans- lation by Rufus of Origen’s Commen- tary on St. Paul’s Epistle to the Ro- mans, of the 6th cent. ; a Dante of the 14th, with marginal and inter- linear notes ; a Virgil of the 14th copied from another MS. of the 10th cent, in Lombard characters, which supplies the termination of many verses incomplete in other copies ; original MSS. of Leo Ostiensis and Ricardo di San Germano ; and the Vision of Frate Alberico, which some suppose to have given Dante the idea of the Divina Commedia. The Archives, however, contain by far the most valuable of all the trea- sures of the abbey. They comprise about 800 original diplomas and char- ters of emperors, kings, dukes, and barons, beginning with Ajo, Prince of the Lombards, in 884 ; and a complete series of all the bulls of the popes relating to the monastery from the ROUTE 141. MONTE CASINO. 31 11th cent. Many of the charters have portraits of the princes by whom they were granted. The seals attached to them alone would be a curious study. This inestimable collection of the political and religious history of the middle ages has been carefully ar- ranged and copied into six folio vo- lumes. Among the numerous letters is the correspondence of Don Erasmo Gat- tola, the historian of the abbey, with Muratori, Tiraboschi, Mabillon, Mont- faucon, and other learned men of his time. At the end of an Italian version of Boccaccio, De Claris mulieribus , are, the letter of Mahomet II. to Nicholas V., in which he complains of the armaments raised against him by the Pope, and promises to become a Christian as soon as he arrives at Rome with his army ; and the answer of the Pope, declaring that he is not to be duped by the pretended promise of conversion. A sella balnearia of rosso antico, found at Suio, on the banks of the Garigliano, is preserved here. The Tower, which is believed to have been the habitation of St. Benedict, contains some pictures by L. Giordano , Novelli , Spagnoletto, &c., remains of the great collection, which was carried off to enrich the gallery at Naples. The cloisters of this part of the building have been converted into a gal- lery of inscriptions and antiquities, col- lected chiefly from the ruins of Casinwm. The inmates of the monastery con- sist at present (June 1858) of 20 brethren in holy orders, 14 lay bro- thers, 1 6 noviciates, and a large number of pupils for the priesthood, and re- ceiving a general education. The mem- bers of the community must be persons of independent means. The revenues of the establishment were formerly more than 20,000/. a year ; they now scarcely exeeed 3000/. The Abbot formerly held the rank of first baron of the kingdom, and was privileged to drive his coach and six. But though the high and palmy days of Monte Casino have passed away, the hospitality of the brethren continues to be extended to strangers with unaffect- ed kindness and courtesy. Several large and comfortable rooms are set apart for the accommodation of visitors, and a cordial welcome is never wanting. The view from the convent is singu- larly fine. The plain of the Liris as far as the frontier of the Roman States, including the towns ofCeprano, Aquino, and Arce, the high cultivation of the country, the picturesque forms of the distant mountains, combine to form a panorama of the highest interest and beauty. During the spring a few days may be spent very agreeably at San Ger- mano, from which several excursions can be made. A road of 4 m. leads to Pignataro, near which are the remains of Interamna Lirinas (Rte. 1 40). Ano- ther road, passing by S. Elia and Bel- monte, reaches Atina (11 m.) and thence descends to Sora (12 m.), from which 24 m. more will bring us back to San Germano (Rte. 144). Aquino and Pontecorvo are within short drives from it ; and the pedestrian may ascend Monte Cairo , a mountain on the N.W. of Monte Casino, 4942 ft. high, whose summit commands one of the finest prospects in Italy, extending from Monte Cavo,near Rome, to the Camal- doli, above Naples. After leaving San Germano, the large villages of Cervaro , S. Vittore, and S. Pietro-in-Fine are passed on the ridge on the 1. Here the hills approach each other and the country becomes wild and barren ; till, issuing from the pass called Gole di Mignano, the village of that name, surrounded by forests of oaks and chesnut trees, opens upon the view, on the rt. When seen from the distance Mignano has a striking effect, but as we approach nearer it presents a melancholy appearance. 10 m. Taverna di Mignano. Near this are seen the first traces of the volcanic deposits of Bocca Monfina. Passing Presenzano and other villages on the surrounding heights, the road reaches the 7 m. Taverna di Caianiello, a country inn, where vetturini often stop. Here this road is joined by that from the Abruzzi, and by two others. One of these on the 1., following probably a branch of the Via Latina, leads by Vairano, after crossing the Volturno, to Alife. ( Excursions from Naples .) I Another follows the direction of the 32 ROUTE 141 . ROME TO NAPLES. — TEANO. Via Latina , of which traces are visible, f passes after 5 m. through Teano, and 2 m. beyond it rejoins the Abruzzi road. To follow this branch lengthens the route only 1 hi., but gives an opportunity of visiting Teano. Two hi. before reaching the latter town, in a ravine on the rt., are the chalybeate springs, called Acqua delle Caldarelle , the ancient Aqua Sinuessanee which Pliny records : — Sterilitatem fceminarum et virorum insaniam abolere produntur. Teano (5000 Inhab.), the ancient Teanum Sidicinum , according to Strabo the most important city of Campania next to Capua, situated on the slopes of Rocca Monfina, is approached by a terrace commanding a fine view of the neighbouring country. It was at Tea- num that most of the Capuan senators, whilst waiting in confinement their sentence from Rome, were put to death in n.c. 211 by the Consul Fulvius, against the opinion of his colleague A. Claudius. During the war between Antony and Octavius the commanders of the Legions in Italy met here with a view to reconcile them. The modern town is the residence of a bishop of the united dioceses of Teano and Calvi. The streets are narrow. The massive remains of the baronial castle built by Marino Marzano, Duke of Sessa, the partisan of John of Anjou in the 15th centy., are of immense extent ; the stables alone are capable of containing 300 horses. A monu- ment in the cloisters of the suppressed convent is supposed to bear the effigy of this rebellious vassal and kins- man of the house of Aragon. The cathedral contains many columns taken from ancient buildings, and a sarco- phagus with bas-reliefs ; in front of the door are two sphinxes of red granite. Numerous inscriptions, built into the walls of this and other buildings, speak of the city as a colony of Claudius, and refer to the baths, to several temples of Ceres, Hercules Victor, and Juno Populonia. The ancient theatre, now called la Madonna della Grotta, still retains several of its sub- { terranean vaults. The large remains of the amphitheatre are close to the road outside the town. The Ospizio | [ of the monastery of S. Antonio, 2 m. from the town, perched on the crest of the hill, commands a magnificent prospect. The great volcanic crater of Rocca Monfina is seen towering in the distance on the N.W. of Teano. (Rte. 140.) At a solitary tavern, called Torricella, a wretched place, the 24th m. from Naples, the Teano road falls again into that from the Abruzzi. 7 m. Calvi , the ancient Coles , con- tains scarcely more than a dozen houses, and a small ruined castle of the middle ages. The ground for many miles is encumbered with ruins, and quantities of coins are found by the peasants in the neighbourhood. The best remains existing are those of a temple, a ruined arch of brickwork, and the theatre. The temple is the most interesting. Several chambers are well preserved, and are lined with reticulated masonry. In the first chamber are numerous fragments of bassi-relievi in stucco on the inner wall ; among them some sit- ting figures, a tripod, and palm-leaves may be traced. The ruin is now called St a. Casta. “ But the most interesting, perhaps I should say the most pic- turesque, object,” says Mr. Craven, “is a small fountain formed of a marble slab, bearing on its surface a very well executed bas-relief of elegant design, composed of festoons of vine- leaves and grapes with a mask in the centre. This relic is placed against the base of a steep rock covered with creepers, forming one side of a singular little volcanic glen, bearing in its whole extension the marks of innumerable conduits, probably for the purpose of supplying baths or thermae .” The wines of Calvi are celebrated by Horace — Caecubum, et praalo domitam Caleno Tu bibes uvam ; mea nec Falernae Temperant vites, neque Formiaui Pocula colles. Od. i. xx. 4 m. Lo Spartimento , the place where this road falls into that from Rome | through Terracina and Mola di Gaeta, I is 20 m. from Naples, and 4 m. from Capua (Rte. 140). | 16 m. Naples. ROUTE 142. TERNI TO NAPLES. 33 ROUTE 142. TERNI TO NAPLES, BY AQUILA. Posts. Miles. Terni to Rieti 16 Rieti to Civita Ducale (Nea- politan frontier) . . . 5 Civita Ducale to Antrodoco. li 12 Antrodoco to Vigliano . . 1 8 Vigliano to Aquila . . . 1 8 about 49 Post or Consular Road of the Abruzzi. Posts. Aquila to Civita Retenga . 1| Civita Retenga to Popoli . 1J Popoli to Solmona ... 1 Solmona to Rocca Vallo- scura 1 (An extra horse for every pair, but not vice versa .) Rocca Valloscura to Roc- carasa 1 (An extra horse for every pair, but not vice versa.') Roccarasa to Castel di Sangro Of Castel di Sangro to Piano di Foroli (An extra horse from Piano di Foroli to Castel di Sangro.) Piano di Foroli to Isernia 1 (An extra horse from Piano di Foroli to Tsemia.) Isernia to Venafro . . . 1^ (An extra horse from Venafro to Isernia for every pair, but not vice versa.) Venafro to Cajapiello . . Cajaniello to Calvi ... If Calvi to Capua .... 1 Capua to Aversa ... 1 Aversa to Naples ... 1 (A half-post both ways is charged for a royal about 178 Travellers from Florence, who are desirous of proceeding to Naples with- out passing through Rome, may quit the Roman road at Terni, and proceed by Rieti to Aquila, where they will fall into the high post-road of the Abruzzi. The postmaster of Terni will supply horses to Rieti ; but at the latter place the postmaster cannot be depended upon, and travellers may have to send over to Civita Ducale for horses to go on to Aquila. With the exception of a short space near Antrodoco, the road is excellent, and is the ordinary route of the pro- prietors of the Abruzzi to Rome. After reaching Papigno ( Handbook for Cent. Italy , Part I. Rte. 27), the road immediately ascends the steep hill above the Falls, so that travellers who wish to visit them, en route, may quit their carriage at Papigno, and rejoin it again at the summit. Thence the road proceeds for about 2 m. along the 1. bank of the Velino, passing the village of Pie di Luco, and its small lake, the ancient Lacus Velinus, with its water- lilies and picturesque banks. The villa of Axius, the friend of Cicero, is sup- posed to have stood near it. The road crosses to the rt. bank of the Velino, close to its junction with the Turano. From the rich cultivation of the plain and the fine scenery of the valleys the drive into Rieti is very interesting. 16 Rieti (11,000 Inhab. — Inns: La Campana, in the Piazza, indifferent ; La Posta, in the Corso, wretched), the an- cient Reate, now an episcopal city, the capital of a Delegation of 400 square miles and 73,680 souls. Its chief branches of industry are agriculture 1 c 3 34 ROUTE 142 .— TERNI TO NAPLES. — RIETI. — LEONESSA. and grazing, and it supplies Koine with large quantities of cattle. The Cathe- dral , originally a Gothic building, dates from 1456 ; in the chapel of S. Bar- bara the statue of the saint is by Bernini, and the monument to Isabella Alfani is by Thorwaldsen. One of the columns of the subterranean ch. is a Koman milliarium. The Palazzo Ricci contains a collection of pictures. In the street leading to Porta Accarana is an ancient statue, without hands and head, called Marbo Cibocco, and said, without any authority, to have once represented Cicero. Reate was one of the most important Sabine towns, and in antiquity equalled by few of the cities of Italy, since it is said to have been the first seat of the Umbri, considered the Aborigines of this part of Italy, and to have de- rived its name from Rhea , the Latin Cybele : — . . . magnaeque Reate dicatum Coelicolum rnatri Sil. Ital. viii. 417. It was celebrated for its mules, and still more for its asses, which some- times fetched the price of 60,000 ses- terces, about 484^. The valley of the Velinus, in which it is situated, was so delightful as to merit the appellation of Tempe ; and for their dewy fresh- ness, its meadows were called Rosea rura Velini. Rieti is exposed to inun- dations caused by the violent storms which occur in the Apennines and cause the Velino and Turano to overflow their banks. Rieti being the frontier town of the Papal States, before leaving it, pass- ports must be viseed by the police. EXCURSION TO LEONESSA, NORCIA, AMATRICE, AND S. VITTORINO. Rieti is conveniently situated for exploring the aboriginal cities in its neighbourhood. Travellers who feel disposed to visit them should obtain letters of introduction at Rieti, for they must be wholly dependent on the hos- pitality of the resident proprietors. After crossing the plain of Rieti, a bridle path skirting Monte Terminillo, called also the Montagna di Lionessa (6998 ft.), after passing Cantelice, reaches Vedutri. On the 1. are Morro | Vecchio, identified with Marrubium , and Palazzo with Palatium. From Vedutri the path winds up the mountain, at each turning offering most magnificent views of the beech forests that stretch away over the huge sides of the Ter- minillo, of the vale of Rieti with its lakes, the gorge of Temi, the hills of Spoleto, and a long line of country westward. After passing through a park-like wood, a long descent over barren slopes of rock leads to Leonessa , 16 m. from Rieti, built about 1252 under the patronage of Frederick II., and belonging to Naples. It is surrounded by villages, and shut out from the rest of the world by an amphitheatre of mountains, scarcely passable in winter. It is entered by a picturesque Gothic Arch combining strikingly with the mountain ridge above, and a ruined castle on one of its crags. The chs. of S. Pietro degli Agostiniani, and Santa Maria fuori della Porta , have beautiful Gothic door- ways. From Leonessa the path follows one of the streams that enter the Como, a tributary of the Nera, to Cascia, 8 m., on the Neapolitan frontier, which from its acropolis-like hill is supposed to | have been a most important place, and to have preserved the name of the Casci or aborigines ; and 6 m. further, reaches Norcia, the ancient Nursia, celebrated for the coldness of its climate, — Qui Tiberim Fabarimque bibunt, quos fri- gida misit Nursia. ViRG. JEn. vir. 715. It was an episcopal see in the early ages of Christianity, and St. Eutychius, one of the reputed disciples of St. Paul, is said to have been its first bishop. It | retains many portions of its Etruscan wall, and was the birthplace of St. Benedict, of Sta. Scolastica, and of Vespasia Polla, the mother of the Em- peror Vespasian. In the time of Sue- tonius the monuments of her family were still existing at Vespasia >, 6 m. from Nursia. A path hence across the i mountains communicates with Spoleto. ROUTE 142.— SAN VITTORINO. CIVITA DUCALE. 3o Instead of returning by the same route, the traveller may cross again the frontier and go to Aquila through Amatrice , which is reached by a bridle-path of 12 m. from Norcia, and is situated near the head waters of the Trento. It had its origin in the middle ages, and was once of considerable im- portance. It is now a forlorn place, wasted by earthquakes and dissensions, which scattered its population into 45 villages by which it is encircled. There are some interesting chs. with paint- ings, mostly retouched, by Cola delV Amatrice. The chs. of S. Agostino and San Francesco have beautiful Gothic doorways. From Amatrice, a path of 6 m. leads to Civita Reale, and 2 m. from it, at the head of the valley and close to the source of the V elino, is Collicelli , a hamlet near the site of Falacrinum , Vespasian’s birthplace. On the hill above the ch. of S. Silvestro in Falacrino are some ruins supposed to be of the house of the Flavian family, in which Vespasian was born, and which he preserved in its original state, and often visited. Locum incunabulorum ass idae frequentavit, manente villa qualis fuerat olim, ne quid scilicet oculorum ■ consuetudini deperiret. — Suet . viii. 2 . There are traces of an old winding ascent to the top of the hill. The path reaches next Montereale (7 m.), from which a new road of 10 m. joins the road from Antrodoco to Aquila, near Coppito. half a mile from Aquila. San Vittorino , about 3 m. from Aquila, on this road, is a hamlet on the banks of the Aterno, supposed to occupy the site of Amiternum, a powerful Sabine city of great antiquity, which assisted Turnus against iEneas : Una ingens Amiterna cohors, priscique Quirites, Ereti manus omnis, oliviferseque Mutuscse : Qui Nomentum urbem, qui Rosea rura Velini, Qui Tetricae ho rr elites rupes, montemque Severum, Casperiamque colunt. . . . JEn. vir. 710. On the hill is a square tower with old inscriptions, and a sculptured lion built into its walls. Below it is a ch. in which S. Vittorino, an early bishop of Amiternum, is buried. His mar- tyrdom is represented on some bas- reliefs in the wall ; a tablet bears the date 1174 5 and there is a subterranean ch. used as a place of worship and burial by the early Christians. This hill seems to have been the Acropolis of Amiternum, for terraces may be traced down to the plain. At the foot of the hill, behind the village, are some polygonal walls, and in the plain are the ruins of an amphitheatre con- structed of brick, in the style of imperial times. The river runs com- pletely through the ancient theatre, which is easily traced ; foundations of other edifices are visible in various parts of the plain, and even in the bed of the river. Amiternum was the birthplace of Sallust. The frag- ment of an ancient calendar, one of the most valuable relics of this kind, and lately many coins of Diocletian, have been found hereabouts. From Rieti the road ascends the valley of the Velino as far as Antrodoco, and in picturesque beauty is hardly to be surpassed. At a mile from the road, on the rt., the Salto falls into the Velino. At Casotto di Napoli, a ruined house between Rieti and Civita Ducale, is a hill called Lesta, retaining traces of ancient fortifications and remains of polygonal walls, and supposed to mark the site of Lista, the capital of the Aborigines. An ancient fountain still exists near the entrance gate. About half-way between Rieti and Civita Ducale the line of boundary between the States of the Church and the king- dom of Naples is crossed. 5 m. Civita Ducale (2100 Inhab.), the frontier town of Naples, built in 1308 by Robert Duke of Calabria, was once a place of considerable strength, and its ruined walls still make it a picturesque object. It is the chief town of the dis- trict. Here the traveller has to pass through the custom-house and police formalities. The country between Civita Ducale and Antrodoco is extremely beautiful ; following the valley of the Velino, the lower hills are covered with vines and olives, while the higher ridges are 36 ROUTE 142. — TERNI TO NAPLES. — ANTRODOCO. clothed with forests. The gaseous ema- nations of sulphuretted hydrogen from the pools which occur on either side of the road, and some of which bubble up with violence, form the Agues Out Urn, the modern Bagni di Paterno, which were much resorted to by the Romans for their medicinal properties. Vespa- sian visited them every year, and it was while residing here that his death took place, in a.d. 79. The most remarkable of these pools is the Pozzo di Latignano, the ancient Locus Cutilics, situated on the 1. of the road at the foot of the hill on which stands the village of Paterno, and below the ruined terrace of a Roman villa or bath. The stream produced by its violent action is strong enough to turn a mill • and some masses of incrus- tations of carbonate of lime and vege- table substances become occasionally detached, and assume the appearance of the floating island mentioned by Dionysius of Halicarnassus. Varro called the Cutilian Lake the Umbilicus Italics, because he supposed it to be exactly in the centre of the peninsula. From this circumstance some writers confounded it with the Amsanctus of Virgil, misled by the “ Est locus Italics medio! (Rte. 148.) Not far distant, but nearer Rieti, are ruins of a large building supposed to be the palace of Vespasian. Near the road, and running parallel to it for some distance, are remains of the Via Solaria * The Velino is crossed between Mici- gliano and Borghetto shortly before 8 m. Antrodoco. ( Inn : small and poor, outside the gates.) Nothing can * The Via Salaria traversed the Sabina and terminated at Hadria. It derived its name from its being the road by which the salt made on the shore of the Mediterranean, chiefly about Ostia, was imported into the interior of the country. The stations on it were — Ere turn, Vicus Novus, Reate, Cutiliae, Interooi ea, Falacr inum, Vicus Badies, Ad Centesimum, Asculum Picenum, Castrum Truentinum, Oastrum Novum, Hadria, Grotta Marozza. Osteria Nuova. Rieti. Bagni di Paterno. (?) Antrodoco. near Collicelli. (?) near Illica. (?) Fresunco. (?) Ascoli. near Torre di Martin Sicuro. near Giulia Nuova. Atri. surpass its romantic position. It is situated upon the Velino, at the point where the river emerges from its deep glen at the foot of Monte Calvo, to pursue a W. course towards Rieti. Where the two valleys meet, there is another deep glen or defile, called the Passo di Antrodoco, and formed by the flanks of Monte Calvo, which begin to close in upon the Naples road at Roeca di Corno ; so that the town is situated at the junction of the three glens, and forms a striking object from whatever quarter it is seen. Its ancient name Interocrea (between mountains) was derived from its position. Above the town, overlooking the river, rises the ruined castle of the Vitelli, but from the height of the surrounding moun- tains the view from it is circumscribed. The Monte Calvo, a spur from the great mass of the Terminillo, rising behind the town on the E. and N., is some- times ascended for the sake of the pro- spect, It commands the plains of Aquila and the Papal States as far as Rome. From Antrodoco an interesting walk or ride up the valley of the Velino, as far as Sigillo (6 m.), will afford an oppor- tunity of seeing some imposing speci- mens of ancient engineering. The Via Salaria was carried through this narrow defile, supported on terraces rising from the river’s edge, and at times carried along the brink of precipices cut into walls to admit its passage. The most striking of these cuts is about 100 ft. high, and had, till recently, a tablet with an inscription stating that the sub- struction w r as raised during the reign of Trajan. The narrow pass, through which the road to Aquila proceeds, has on several occasions been the scene of hostile en- gagements with the armies which have invaded Naples. In 1798 a handful of peasants held it so as to repel a column of the French army ; in 1821, the Nea- politans under Gen. Pepe allowed the Austrian army to pass with scarcely any opposition. The road is extremely beautiful ; the land is rich and well watered, and the hills are luxuriantly wooded. One of the remarkable fea- tures of the road is the number of ruined castles : beyond the Madonna 37 ROUTE 142. — AQUILA. della Grotta is one of considerable ex- tent, much resembling those of the Tyrol; and at the extremity of the glen is another of great size, clothed with ivy, and forming a very pic- turesque termination to the valley on the side of Aquila. The road crosses the Aterno near Coppito, where another (3 m.) branches off on the 1. to S. Yittorino. 17 m. Aquila (9700 Inhab.— Inn: Locanda del Sole, large, but badly fur- nished and wretched), founded by the Emperor Frederick II. as a barrier to the encroachments of the popes, is the capital of Abruzzo Ultra II., the see of a bishopric and of the tribunals of the province. It is well built, with good streets and a large number of handsome palaces and chs. The lower classes have emigrated in considerable numbers in recent years. In 1706 the city was nearly destroyed by an earthquake ; 2000 persons perished in one ch., a great part of the city was overthrown, and from its effects it has never recovered. Aquila is full of interest; and its antiquities and chs. will repay a visit. St. Bernardino da Siena, the principal ch., has a facade begun in 1525 and com- pleted in 1542, by Cola delV Amatrice. It is composed of three orders, one over the other ; the lower being Doric. The workmanship is unusually elaborate, and, in spite of the heaviness, it is im- posing. Over the principal door, which is Corinthian, are bas-reliefs of the Ma- donna and some kneeling saints, one of which is the portrait of Girolamo da Norcia, the architect of the two lateral doors. In the interior, the roof and its compartments are handsome ; the mar- bles are from the mountains in the neighbourhood. The monument of San Bernardino is a fine specimen of art after the Revival. It is a large urn of white marble, wrought with elegant arabesques and decorated with statues and other sculptures in high relief. It was executed in 1505 by Silvestro Sal- viati dell ’ Aquila, at the expense of Giacomo Notar Nanni, a merchant, and it cost 9000 ducats. It formerly enclosed a silver chest containing the ashes of the saint, and executed by order of Louis XI. ; but the French in 1799 broke open the monument and carried it off. Near the altar is a mo- nument to Maria Pereyta Noronia Cam- poneschi, Contessa di Montorio. It re- presents a mother and her infant in a recumbent posture, and was the work of Salvatore dell’ Aquila. Near the altar is a large picture of the Crucifixion, by Ruter. Sta. Maria di Collemaggio is encrusted with white and red marble. The fa- $ade alone remains of the original Gothic building. The porch is ex- tremely rich. The central doorway is rounded, consisting of four bands, three of which are spiral, the other being composed of small figures of saints or angels. The canopied niches are of great variety ; the twisted pillars are richly carved. The niches were once filled with statues, of which only seven now remain. The two lateral • door- ways have two columns on each side, elaborately twisted, but partly con- cealed by plaster. The three rose windows, though now blocked up, are still extremely beautiful. Above the porch a balcony runs along the front of the building, from which the bishop of the diocese reads, on every 29th of August, the bull in favour of Aquila, granted by Celestin V., who was con- secrated pope in this ch. in 1294, and was afterwards buried in it. The in- terior of the ch. has a rich roof, and the floor contains several monuments to bishops of the order of the Celestins. The monument of Celestin V., erected in 1517, is of marble and covered with a profusion of arabesques. The choir is Gothic altered into the classic style. The body of the building was ruined by the earthquake of 1703. In this ch. are preserved some remarkable paintings by Ruter, the pupil of Rubens. He was a Celestin monk, and has left here some interesting works, as they contain portraits, and supply a field for the study of costume. The more important are the Coronation of Celestin V. in the presence of Charles II. of Anjou, and his son Charles Martel ; the defeat- of Braccio at the siege of Aquila ; and the life and miracles of Celestin Y. 38 ROUTE 142. — TERN I TO NAPLES. — AQU1LA. Many of the other churches and public buildings exhibit fragments of Gothic architecture. Santa Maria di Paganica has a fine doorway, with rich carving, and a ruined rose window. San Silvestro has a window and door- way, with old Gothic side windows closed up, and a picture of the Baptism of Constantine, considered one of the best works of art in the city. Inside the Gothic doorway there are some frescoes by the school of Giotto. San Domenico has a beautiful window. S. Maria di Soccorso has a simple but very pretty fa$ade ; II Vasto has a splendid Gothic window ; San Marco has two Gothic doors ; and Santa Giusta has the richest window in Aquila; the bands rest on figures in different attitudes, and of very grotesque forms. Behind this ch. is an old Gothic house with a room painted in fresco ; over the entrance is an inscription with the date 1462, and a quaint Latin distich alluding to the name and arms of the proprietor. In the Strada Komana is a curious old house with Gothic windows, porches, &c. The Palazzo Torres contains a pic- ture gallery, among which are : — a Magdalen by Annibale Caracci ; a St. John by Guercino ; a Magdalen by Paolo Veronese ; Martyrdom of St. Catherine by Baroccio ; the Democritus of Guido ; Christ with the Cup by Andrea del Sarto ; an admirable portrait of Card. Torres, by Domenichino. But the chefs-d'oeuvre of the gallery are the Stoning of Stephen, on copper, by Domenichino, and the Last Supper by Titian , on marble. The Palazzo Dragonetti has also a gallery of paintings, among which are several by Pompeo dell ’ Aquila , a na- tive artist of the 16th cent. The Citadel , built in 1534 by the Spanish engineer Pirro Luigi Scriva, is one of the most massive and im- posing fortresses of the 16th cent, in Italy, though useless against modern artillery. It is a regular square flanked by low round towers; its curtains are 24 ft. in thickness, and the fosse which surrounds it is 70 ft. broad and 40 ft. deep. Over the gateway are the arms of the Emperor Charles V. The walls, built with extraordinary strength, have been unaffected by any of the earth- quakes from which the city has suf- fered. A portion of the fortress is now used as a prison, and a small garrison is maintained in it. Strangers are not allowed to enter without permission from the governor. The old Palazzo del Governo, built also in the time of Charles V. by Battista Marchirolo, was the residence of his natural daughter Margaret of Austria, who, after the death of her husband Ottavio Farnese, was made Governor of this province. It is a large building, with a lofty tower ; but a portion of it was thrown down by the earthquake of 1 703. At Aquila the expenses of living are moderate ; there is excellent water by an aqueduct of 4 m., and an opera and theatre which are open part of the year. The siege of Aquila and the death of Braccio Fortebraccio da Montone are among the most interesting passages in Italian history. The battle, which ended in the overthrow of that con- dottiere, the rival of Sforza and per- haps the most complete specimen of the Italian chivalry of the 15th cent., was fought between the city of Aquila and the hill of San Lorenzo, June 2, 1424. The combined armies of Joanna II. of Naples, Martin V., and Filippo Maria Duke of Milan, under the com- mand of Jacopo Caldora, were three or four times superior in strength to that of Alfonso of Aragon, com- manded by Braccio ; and yet the battle would undoubtedly have been decided in Braccio 's favour, if his signals had not been misunderstood by his reserve. In the fight Braccio was wounded and thrown from his horse ; his followers fled, panic-struck at the sight, and the day was lost. Braccio was carried into the tent of Caldora, where he was treated with all consideration ; but he neither spoke after he fell, nor noticed even his own followers whom Caldora summoned to attend him. The sur- geons declared that his wound was not mortal ; but he, determined not to sur- vive his defeat, died on the 5th June, after passing three days without food, ROUTE 142. — CICOLANO. — PETRELLA. 39 and without uttering a word. The astrologers had predicted that neither Sforza nor Braccio would long survive each other, and the death of Sforza by drowning in the Pescara is supposed to have caused Braccio to believe that his own days were numbered. His body was taken to Rome by Lodovico Colonna, where Martin V. refused it the rites of burial as of an excommu- nicated person; and it is still unburied in one of the churches of Perugia. ( Handb . for Central Italy, Rte. 27.) From Aquila a new road has been constructed, through the passes of Monte San Franco, toTeramo(Rte. 143). The excursion to Amiternum (3 m.) can be made directly from Aquila. A wild pass over the mountains leads from Aquila to the Lake of Celano by Rocca di Cagno, Rocca di Mezzo, and Ovindoli. (Rte. 144.) In the Abruzzi the traveller will see in their homes the zampognari, or pifferari, or bagpipers, who so regularly visit Rome and Naples every Christmas that the season would seem wanting in one of its ancient customs in the eyes of the Romans and Neapolitans if they did not come to greet it with their carols and their hymns. During the rest of the year they live chiefly on the profits realized by their six weeks’ visit to Rome. Their dress at home is quite as picturesque as it is at Rome ; pointed hats, plush or sheepskin breeches, and short cloaks, colourless from exposure and wear ; a costume which the pencil of Penry Williams has made familiar to all travellers. EXCURSION TO THE CICOLANO DISTRICT, AND TO THE CASTLE OF PETRELLA, The traveller who is desirous of in- vestigating more fully the early anti- quities of Italy, will have an oppor- tunity, while in this neighbourhood, of visiting the Cicolano District , lying between Avezzano and Rieti, on the rt. bank of the Salto. The excursion must be made on horseback, and can be undertaken either from Rieti, or from Civita Ducale, or from Aquila. There are few parts of Italy so little known. The country presents an almost unvarying succession of deep ravines lying between steep hills of moderate elevation and profusely wooded. Upon these hills, scattered over a considerable tract, are the re- mains of a series of ancient cities, described by Dionysius of Halicarnas- sus as being the towns of the Abo- rigines, entirely ruined and deserted when he wrote. Martelli, a local an- tiquary, was the first who proved the accuracy of the descriptions of Diony- sius, and Mr. Dodwell and Mr. Keppel Craven subsequently confirmed part of his observations. It is exceedingly difficult to determine the position of these towns from the ancient names ; but Torano, near Sant’ Anatolia, which possesses vestiges of Cyclopean walls, is considered to be the Tiora of Diony- sius, where St. 'Anatolia suffered mar- tyrdom under the emperor Decius. The sites of the other towns mentioned by Dionysius are still undetermined, and will probably never be ascertained with perfect accuracy ; but the traveller will derive sufficient interest in finding a cluster of cities whose massive w T alls and other ruins mark the position of the aboriginal settlements precisely as they are described by that historian. The district is now inhabited by shep- herds, whose villages are scattered over the valley of the Salto. The pro- prietors reside on their estates, and it is to them that the traveller must look for hospitality; it will, therefore, be desirable that he should provide him- self with recommendations to some of them. On the borders of this district, about 3 m. N. of the small village of Mercato, and near the frontier of the Papal States, is the village of Petrella, once a feudal possession of the Colonnas. Here was committed towards the close of the 16th cent, the murder of Francesco Cenci, at the instance of his wife and daughter, a crime that has been ren- dered celebrated by the poetry of Shel- ley, and in the person of Beatrice by the pencil of Guido. “ That savage rock, the castle of Petrella, ’Tis safely wall’d, and moated round about : ROUTE 142 . — TERNI TO NAPLES.— THE CENCI. Its dungeons under ground, and its thick towers, Never told tales ; though they have heard and seen What might make dumb things speak.” The story has been told by Keppel Craven in his Travels through the Abruzzi, and more accurately still, as derived from a cotemporary MS., in a recent article of the ‘ Quarterly Re- view’ (April, 1858). Francesco Cenci, the victim, was a Roman noble, the son of a Treasurer or Minister of Fi- nance of Pius V., who had amassed, as such functionaries were wont to do, a colossal fortune — of debauched, most dissolute and unnatural habits : he had been twice married, having several children by his first wife, two of whom were murdered in their youth ; of 3 who survived, Beatrice was the eldest, and remarkable for her beauty, which has been handed down to us in Guido’s lovely portrait now in the Barberini gallery at Rome. Subjected to every species of ignominy and insult, Beatrice and her stepmother Lucrezia, unable to bear up against it, were determined to rid themselves and society of such a monster — for which purpose, aided by a certain Monsignore Guerra, who be- came enamoured with Beatrice, they employed two paid assassins to waylay Francesco on his journey to the Castle of Petrella, his usual summer resi- dence. This part of their design having been thwarted, the two women resolved to have the murder perpetrated in the very den of his iniquities. On the 9th of September, 1599, Lucrezia and her stepdaughter having previously drug- ged with opium the unfortunate wretch, it was Beatrice who introduced the murderers into her parent’s room, who instigated them to the act, who virtu- ally assisted in it, and who emboldened, by her threats and persuasion, the fal- tering assassins to their parricidal act, effected nearly in the same way as Jael slew Sisera of old. The closing scene is described in an almost cotem- porary document as follows: — “ Ren- trarono (the assassins Martino and Olimpio)), resoluti aspettati dalle Donne, onde porta su un occhio del dormiente una frezza , Valtro con un Martello gliela con- ficco in testa, e una altra conjiccarono nel collo, onde quella misera anima fu rapita del Diavolo ( como si crede ).” The crime having been discovered, and one of the murderers having confessed to his guilt, the stepmother Lucrezia, with Beatrice and her brothers, after being tortured, confessed also to their partici- pation in the murder — were tried and convicted : the circumstances under which the two women had instigated to, and participated in, the tragedy, were, however, such as to offer some extenuation for such an atrocious act, and, although no doubt could be enter- tained of their guilt, yet many of the leading families of Rome, with whom they were allied, made every effort to obtain their pardon from the reigning Pontiff Clement VIII. Whilst all was uncertainty as to their fate, a nearly similar crime, the murder of a princess, Santa Croce, by her son, sealed theirs. Orders were given for their execution. Beatrice and Lucrezia were ordered to be beheaded; Giacomo Cenci, the elder brother, to be quartered ; whilst the younger, Bernardo, then only 15 years of age, was pardoned at the intercession of the celebrated lawyer Farinacci, but on the cruel condition of being seated on the scaffold when the rest of his family suffered their sentence. This inhuman exhibition took place in front of the Castle of St. Angelo at Rome, on the 11th of September, 1599. From Petrella the traveller may proceed to Antrodoco, to Civita Du- cale, or to Rieti. The road from Aquila to Naples is a branch of one of the four great post- roads of the kingdom, called the Con- sular Road of the Abruzzi. The dis- tance to the capital is 16§ posts; 128^ m. On leaving Aquila, the road de- scends the valley of the Aterno. At the 5th m., on a hill on the other side of the river, is Fossa, which marks the site of Aveia, a city of the Vestini. From the high ground the view towards Aquila is extremely fine. The nu- merous villages scattered over the valley, the cultivation of the land, the windings of the river, and the snowy ROUTE 142. — POPOLI. — SOLMONA. 41 mountains in the distance, combine to form a scene of peculiar interest. lj Civita Retenga, a "village with an old castle on the hill, is the half- way house of the vetturini. It is at the 112th m. from Naples, and is 15 m. from Aquila. About 5 m. east is the town of Capistrano , the birth- place of S. Giovanni da Capistrano, the Franciscan who headed the crusade against the Hussites in Bohemia, after- wards joined the army of John Hun- yades against the Turks, and was pre- sent at the battle of Belgrade, in 1456. He died soon afterwards at Villach, and was canonized in 1690 by Alexander VIII. In the church of Capistrano is buried Alfonso Piccolomini, Duke of Amalfi, who was murdered near Sol- mona by Carlo Sanframondi, Count of Celano, in 1498, two years after his marriage to the beautiful Joanna of Aragon. Beyond Navelli the road enters on a cheerless elevated plain, and is carried by skilful windings down the mountains that form the N. boundary of the valley of Solmona. The view of this valley, encircled by mountains and diversified by the richest vegetation, is very striking. 1J Popoli (4000 Inhab. — Inn: La Posta, tolerable), a dirty town situated at the foot of the mountains, at the junction of the roads from Aquila, Solmona, and Chieti, and 1 m. below the union of the Aterno with the Gizio. The ruined castle of the Cantelmis, dukes of Popoli, is finely placed on an eminence above the town, and adds greatly to its pic- turesque appearance. The ch. and many of the houses exhibit the same peculiarities of architecture as those of Aquila and Solmona ; the most con- spicuous is the dilapidated Cantelmo palace, with its finely arched Gothic windows and armorial shields. A circular tower, without door or window, over the bridge of the Ater- no, has an inscription with the words Resta! Resta! — but its history is un- known. A straight and level road along the rt. bank of the Gizio leads to Solmona. I m. beyond Popoli are the ruins of II Giardino, a villa of the Cantelmis. [About 2 m. further a mountain road ! (16 m.) branches off on the rt. to Avezzano and the Lake Fucino. It passes by Pentima, near which, in an elevated plain, are the ruins of the ancient Corfinium, the capital of the Peligni, the seat, during the Social war, of the allied nations, who changed its name to Italica, and adorned it with a spacious Forum and Senate-house. The Gothic ch. of S. Pelino is built of stones taken from the ruins, many of which exhibit inscriptions. The Via Valeria may be traced near it, bordered in many places by the ruins of ancient tombs. 1 m. further, at Baiano , are remains of 2 ancient aqueducts constructed to con- vey the waters of the Aterno and the Sagittario to Corfinium. From Baiano the road ascends through fine scenery and oak forests to Goriano Sicoli, where the valley of the Aterno opens towards Aquila. Hence a narrow glen, which was traversed by the Via Valeria , leads by La Forchetta to the summit of the Forca Caruso, the ancient Mons I meus , a mountain pass, through which the N.E. wind blows sometimes in winter so violently as to render the pass im- practicable. A rapid descent leads by Colie Armele to the shores of the lake of Celano, from which a level road of 6 m. leads to Avezzano. (Rte. 144.) ] 1 m. Solmona (12,200 Inhab. — Inn : La Pace, a suppressed monastery of the Jesuits, extremely dirty), the chief town of a district, and the see of a Bishop, occupies the site and retains the name of the birthplace of Ovid. Sulmo raihi patria est, gelidis uberrimus undis. Trist. iv. 9. The position of the town, in the centre of the basin watered by the Gizio, and surrounded by lofty mountains, is so highly picturesque, that the traveller will hardly wonder that Ovid was so much attached to it, and found it too far away from the scene of his exile : Sulmonis gelidi, patriae, Germanice, nostrse ; Me miserum, Scy thico quam procul ilia solo est. Fast. iv. 81. The earthquakes of 1803 and 1804 destroyed many public buildings. It abounds in curious fragments of Gothic architecture, but the streets and houses have a ruined and unfinished appear- ROUTE 142. TERNI TO NAPLES — S. PIETRO CELESTINO. 42 ancs. The Palazzo del Comune , or Town Hall, is a remarkable specimen of the cinquecento style. The three doors are richly carved, and one has a pointed arched canopy with foliation of great beauty. The pointed windows above are even more richly worked ; they are inserted in a square frame elaborately carved, and show the combination of the Gothic and classic styles. Over the rt.-hand window is the date 1522. The house of Baron Tabassi has an elaborate window with the inscription : “ Mastro Petri da Como fece questa Porta, a.d. 1448.” In the principal street is the Cancelleria, in front of which is a wretched statue of Ovid in clerical robes, holding a book inscribed S. M. P. F. This street is divided from the public square by an aqueduct with pointed arches, built in 1400. Near it is the fine doorway of the ch. of S. Francesco d’ Assisi, destroyed by the earthquake. It consists of round arches resting upon six columns, and is one of the finest examples of this style in Italy. The ch. in its original state must have been a noble structure, as it is shown by the rose window and doorway of the other front. Another rose win- dow and doorway of Italian Gothic may be seen at Santa Maria della Tomba. The interior has a nave with pointed arches, resting on five low massive columns, with capitals of different styles, greatly resembling our old English churches. The square marble pulpit is Gothic, resting on columns. The Cathedral retains fragments of its original Gothic architecture. The Nunziata is a hospital for the mainte- nance and education of the foundlings of the Abruzzi. Solmona is celebrated for its sugarplums (Confetti di Sol- mona). A great deal of the parchment used by bookbinders at Rome and else- where was formerly manufactured in this neighbourhood. 2 m. from the town, at the base of the barren ridge of the Morrone, is the suppressed Monastery of S. Pietro Cele- stino, one of the most magnificent re- ligious edifices in Europe, built with materials taken from the public build- ings of Corfinium, which were destroyed for the purpose. It was founded as the chief seat of the order of the Celestins, in honour of Pietro da Morrone. The French Government suppressed it, and it is now used as a house of industry for the juvenile paupers of the metropolis. The domestic arrangements of the mo- nastery are probably more complete than those of any other similar building in the world. The ch. retains most of its marbles and decorations. In a dark recess is a remarkable monument of the Cantelmo family, by Silvestro Salviati. In front of the monastery are some springs, which bear the classical title of Fonti d’ Amor e ; and on the slopes of the hill some ruins of reticulated brickwork are shown as the Stanze d’ Ovidio, the remains, perhaps, of one of the poet’s villas. Higher up the hill, above these ruins, is a small stone hut, placed on a pro- jecting ledge of the mountains, which has acquired peculiar sanctity as the Hermitage of S. Pietro da Morrone. It was from this retreat, in 1294, that Pietro da Morrone was dragged, at the age of 76, to fill the papal throne, under the name of Celestin V., a dig- nity he abdicated five months after- wards. Here the archbishop and the two bishops, who had been sent by the conclave to announce his eleva- tion to the Papal chair, fell upon their knees before the hermit, and so asto- nished him with the news, that he sought to escape from his new and unexpected honours by flight. It was here also that Charles II. and his son Charles Martel came to conduct the new Pope to his coronation, and held the bridle of his mule as he made his solemn entry into the city of Aquila, where his consecration took place in the presence of a vast multitude that had assembled to see the ceremony. The memory of Ovid naturally gives great interest to everything connected with Solmona. When its inhabitants revolted against Alfonso of Aragon, he suspended the sentence of fire and sword in honour of the poet ; proving, says his historian Panormita, that he was more generous than Alexander, who spared nothing at Thebes but the house of Pindar. Scarcely any vestiges of the ancient city remain ; but the ROUTE 142. — LAKE OF SCAN NO. ROCCA VALLOSCURA. 43 cold and abundant streams which the poet described among the characteris- tics of his native valley, still form its remarkable feature. Tars me Sulmo tenet Peligni tertia ruris ; Parva, sed irriguis ora salubris aquis. Amor. xi. 16. EXCURSION TO THE LAKE OF SCANNO. Travellers who are interested in wild mountain scenery should devote a day to an excursion to the Lake of Scanno. It cannot be less than 12 or 15 miles, most of which must be performed on foot. The path ascends the course of the Sagittario , a bright mountain stream, called also Acqua della Foce , from the peculiar defiles through which it passes near Anversa. This gorge, through the whole of which eagles and ravens abound, is in every respect one of the most singular in the chain of the Apennines. The village of An- versa, which stands on an eminence on the rt., with its shattered castle com- manding the entrance of the pass, and the hamiet of Castro di Yalva hanging almost over the vale from a precipi- | tous rock on the opposite side of the torrent, add greatly to its picturesque character. At its extremity, near Villa Lago, the Sagittario is seen bursting forth from the high mass of rock which forms the boundary of the glen. Here, at a spot called the Stretti di S. Luigi , the pass becomes of such fearful height and narrowness as to be totally impassable in rainy or stormy weather. Into this chasm the stream emerges through subterranean com- munications from the lake, which is about 1 m. distant. After leaving the ravine of the Sagittario, a short ride across a plain brings us to the lake. “ The Lago di Scanno,” says Mr. Lear, “ is really one of the most perfectly beautiful spots in nature, and the more for being in so desert a place. Its dark waters slumber below bare mountains of great height, and their general effect j | might recall Wastwater in Cumber- land, but that every craggy hill was of wilder and grander form, and that the golden hues of an Italian September evening gave it a brilliancy rarely known in our own North. At the up- per end of the lake, which may be 1^ m. in length, an avenue of beautiful oaks, dipping their branches into the water, shade the rocky path, and lead to a solitary chapel, the only building in sight, save a hermitage on the moun- tain beyond.” A path of 1^ m. along the Sagittario leads to the town of Scanno (3000 Inhab.), situated in a nar- row valley of little interest. It has a local reputation for the beauty of its women, and for the Greek character of their costume. From Solmona to Rocca Valloscura, a straight road leads to the base of the lofty range of mountains which bound the plain on the south. In this extre- mity of the valley the countiy is rich and highly cultivated, interspersed with cottages and hedge-rows which recall some of the beautiful home- scenes of England. The ascent begins under the town of Pettorano, where there is a tolerable country inn, and continues with little intermission for 5 m. At Pettorano the last view over the valley of the Gizio and the plain of Solmona is one of those rare pros- pects which are never forgotten by the traveller ; it is one of the finest scenes of its kind in Italy. The whole plain, 13 m. long, is spread out like a map at the foot of the pass, and the distant prospect is bounded by a long line of snowy mountains, above which the Gran Sasso d’ Italia is conspicuous. The Gizio rises in the ravine below Pettorano. A wild defile, 2 m. in i length, brings us to 1 Rocca Valloscura. (1080 Inhab. — Inn : La Posta, tolerable.) This vil- lage well deserves its name, for it is placed in a deep precipitous ravine in one of the most desolate quarters of the pass. The ascent which follows is very steep, and the country is wilder and more dreary than that already passed. 44 ROUTE 142 . — TERN! TO NAPLES. — CASTEL DI SANGRO. BARREA. It is, however, a perfect picture of this peculiar class of scenery: the rocks in the deep ravines below the road are often so curiously broken that they have all the appearance of Pelasgic walls. At 2 m. from Valloscura we enter on the Piano di Cinquemiglia , which forms the summit of the pass. This plain, which, at the 32nd m. from Naples, is 4298 ft. above the level of the sea, and is enclosed by much higher mountains, is perhaps the most wintry spot in Italy. The sudden falls of snow, and the stormy winds to which it is exposed, make it dangerous and often impassable in winter, and some- times even late in the spring. Heavy falls of snow have been known to take place even in June. In February, 1528, 300 Venetian soldiers perished in crossing it ; and a similar fate awaited 600 Germans under the Prince of Orange in March, 1529. A double line of high posts marks the direction of the road through it. In June and September it is one of the principal sta- tions of the shepherds on their annual migration to Apulia. In the spring they bring their flocks from the plains of the Tavoliere to the mountain val- leys above Aquila, where they take up their summer quarters, and towards the middle of autumn they return to Apulia for the winter. At the S. ex- tremity the road is carried through a narrow pass, offering one of the finest views on the whole journey, to 8 m. Boccarasa (1450 Inhab.), a pic- turesque place, which is the highest inhabited village in South Italy: the Casa Angeloni is 4370 ft. above the level of the sea. From here a road branches off on the 1. to Palena and Lanciano. (Rte. 143.) A long and steep descent leads down from Roccarasa to the valley of the Sangro. The mountains are bolder in their forms than those already passed, and are covered with dense forests of oaks, among which bears are bred and hunted. The views over the beautiful valley of the Sangro and the mountain- tract beyond Isernia, with the snowy range of the Matese in the distance, are very fine. | Castel di Sangro (3000 Inhab. — Inn : La Posta, clean ; the best on this road: the landlord supplies horses), a curious old town at the base of a rocky hill at the extremity of a plain 6 m. long and 2 broad, through which the Sangro (. Sarus ) winds its course. It is sur- mounted by the ruins of the fine feudal castle of the Counts of the Marsi. Many of the houses are remarkable for their architecture, and are memorials of better times. They generally have coats of arms over the doors, a common prac- tice in the Abruzzi. One near the inn bears the date of 1374. EXCURSION TO BARREA, ALFIDENA, AND LA META. The traveller fond of alpine scenery may make an interesting excursion from Castel di Sangro to S. Germano; but he should not undertake it without first securing a good guide and letters of introduction to some resident propri- etor at Alfidena and Picinisco. The best way of obtaining them is by ap- plying to the local authority at Castel di Sangro. From this town a path of 6 m. leads along the plain of the Sangro to the village of Scontrone , placed on its 1. bank, in the midst of pine-forests. From here the path ascends the river through a romantic valley, which gets wilder and narrower as it approaches Barrea (1500 Inhab.), placed on the top of a mountain overhanging the deep ravine through which the Sangro flows. This river rises near the village of Gioia, one of the coldest spots in Italy, from under the group of mountains which enclose the Lake Fucino on the S.W. ; it runs below the villages of Pescasseroli and Opi, in an upper valley shut in on the N. by the Monte Greco (7875 ft.), and on the S. by the mountain on which stands Barrea, which from this circumstance derived its name (barrier). From this upper basin the Sangro has found its way to the lower valley through a very deep gorge cut through the sides of the mountains. This gorge is so narrow as to be spanned by an old Gothic ROUTE 142. ALFIDENA. — PJO NERO. ISERNIA. 45 bridge of a single arch nearly 150 ft. in height. From Barrea we retrace our steps southwards, following the rt. bank of the river, to Alfidena (2100 Inhab.), a convenient sleeping-place for the first evening. It stands opposite Scontrone, on the bank of the Rio Torto , a small stream which runs through the town, and through a nar- row cleft in the rock precipitates itself into a dark and deep chasm. In the parapet of the bridge over it is en- crusted an old Oscan inscription. Alfi- dena retains the name but not the site of Aufidena, a city of the Caraceni, the most northern tribe of The Samnites, which was taken by storm by the consul Cn. Fulvius, e.o. 238. On a hill on the 1. bank of the river are some remains of polygonal walls. From Barrea a moun- tain-path of nearly 18m., great part of which is to be walked, crosses a high ridge of the mountain of La Meta by the Passo del Monaco. During the ascent the views of the stupendous rocks and frightful precipices of La Meta, which on this side falls almost perpendicu- larly, are really magnificent. The path traversing the high valley (4795 ft.), in which is the source of La Melfa, near the chapel of the Madonna del Canneto, descends to Picinisco (1200 In- hab.), the 2nd night’s rest, situated on a lower slope of La Meta. The easiest way of ascending this mountain is from Picinisco, where good guides can be hired. July and August are the best months to undertake it. The time required is about 12 hours; but the view from its highest summit (7480 ft. high), extending from the Monte Como in the Abruzzi to the Monte Alburno near Psestum, and from the Adriatic to the Mediterranean, fully compensates the fatigue of the ascent. The chapel of S. Maria del Canneto , in August, is the scene of a Festa to which thousands of peasants, in their picturesque cos- tumes, flock from the adjoining pro- vinces. From Picinisco a good path of 6 m. leads to Atina, from which there is a road to Sora and to San Germano. (Rte. 144.) From Castel di Sangro the high road, after a tedious ascent, passes through Rionero, a miserable village, beyond which the road commands, on the rt., the small plain of the Volturno, with those windings from which the river is supposed to derive its name. [A path of nearly 5 m. leads from Rionero to the picturesque source of this river, near which are the ruins of the Lombard monastery of S. Vincenzo a Vol- turno, so famous in the middle ages as to have been visited by Charlemagne, and in later times celebrated for its magnificent archives and collection of chronicles. It was suppressed and destroyed at the French invasion, when its collections were transferred to Monte Casino. The walk from Rio- nero to its ruins, and back to rejoin the high road at the Taverna di Vandra near the 62nd m. from Naples, will not take, for a good pedestrian, more than 5 hours, and the tourist who can afford the time will be highly repaid by the beauty and singularity of the scenery. 3 A descent of 4 m. brings us to the post-station called 1^ Piano di Foroli, where the mail changes horses. On leaving this station the road passes the Taverna di Vandra, a miserable osteria, and then rapidly descends to the valley of the Vandra, from whence it ascends a high mountain called LI Macerone, the last spur of the Apennines. At the cottage of the gen- darmes at its base the view, looking back over the mountains of Roccarasa and the valley of the Vandra, and S. over the district of Isernia and the snowy peaks of Matese in the distance, is beautiful beyond description. On the 1., built on a high precipitous rock, is Miranda, with a large baronial castle. 1 Lsernia (8000 Inhab. — Inns : Lo- canda Stefano and La Posta ; both very bad), the ancient JEsernia, a city of Samnium. Its commanding position, and the massive remains of its poly- gonal walls, which still exist as the foundation of the modern ones in nearly their whole circuit, afford a pi*oof of the military skill which the Roman historians ascribe to the Sam- nites. During the Social War, after the fall of Corfinium and Bovianum, it became for a time the head-quarters of the Italian allies. The high road 46 ROUTE 142. TERNI TO NAPLES. — VENAFRO. passes outside the E. wall, between the city and a deep valley watered by the Fiume del Cavaliere. In the lower part of this bottom is a rocky mound, with an old circular ch. dedicated to SS. Cosma and Damiano, now used as the public cemetery. The fame of these saints in the cure of disease was so great, that people from all parts of the king- dom formerly crowded to their shrine at Isernia, during the September fair, to purchase masses for their restoration to health, or to make ex voto offerings for benefits received. Red wax models of different parts of the human body affected by disease were exposed for sale to those who came in search of health. Many of these offerings were of such a character that Sir William Hamilton and Mr. Payne Knight, who in the last cent, investigated the origin of the ceremony, believed it a rem- nant of the worship of Priapus. In 1780 the government, to suppress the scandal, prohibited the sale or presenta- tion of the objectionable class of ex voto offerings ; but the practice had taken so firm a hold on the public mind that when Sir Richard Colt Hoare visited the town 10 years later, he was able to procure specimens of the forbidden emblems. The fair is now remarkable chiefly for the display of costumes of the inhab. of the Abruzzi and Terra di Lavoro. Below the ch. is a precipi- tous hill covered with an ilex grove, among which is the monastery of the Capuccini, remarkable for the pictur- esque beauty of the site. The modern town has manufactories of woollens, paper, and earthenware, is the see of a bishop, and the chief town of a district. It consists chiefly of one long and narrow street, running along the crest of the hill. In the middle of the town is a fine old fountain, with 6 rows of arches supported on short columns of white marble of different designs. Near the ch., destroyed by the earthquake of 1804, is an old tower, supposed to have belonged to a gateway of Norman times, at the base of which, on each angle, are 4 mutilated statues. In the adjacent street are foundations of massive buildings, and a rudely sculptured lion, apparently as ancient as the Samnites themselves. Among the inscriptions discovered in the town is one in honour of Septimius Pater- culus, preefect of the Pannonian cohort in Britain, and of the Spanish cohort in Cappadocia, and Flamen of the Emperor Trajan: another is in honour of Fabius Maximus, instavratori moenivm pvbli- corvm. The antiquities appear to have been destroyed in the middle ages, when the city was fortified, as many semicircular towers and walls of that period are still to be seen. The fre- quent earthquakes have also contributed to their destruction. The great cu- riosity of Isernia is the ancient aque- duct, hewn in the solid rock. It begins at the bridge on the Solmona side, where the water enters the channel. It is long, and has six airholes or spira- coli, the deepest of which is said to be 96 palms (82f feet). It supplies the foun- tains and manufactories with water. From Isernia a road leads to Boiano and Campobasso. (Rte. 145.) A rapid descent from Isernia brings us to the valley of the Volturno, along a beautiful road. At the 50th m. we pass under the hamlet of Macchia ; and the village of Montaquila is seen on a hill above the rt. bank of the Volturno, which is crossed, at the 47th m., by a fine bridge, where, leaving the town of Monteroduni 2 m. on the 1., we enter the province of the Terra di Lavoro. The approach to Venafro is extremely beautiful ; a rich succession of groves and highly cultivated glades, surrounded by hills covered with fine oaks, recall in many parts some of the finest combina - tions of English scenery. 1^ Venafro (3500 Inhab. Inn ; Bo- canda Maccarri, with tolerable beds, but nothing to eat ; there is a fair cafe adjoining), the ancient Venafrum, is beautifully situated at the W. ex- tremity of the plain of the Volturno, on the lower slopes of the lofty moun- tain of Santa Croce, upon which, about half way up its side, are the ruins of an old tower. At the base of the moun- tain rise the copious springs which form the Fiume di San Benedetto. Another spring in the neighbourhood retains the name of the Fons Papiria. The slopes of the hills are still covered with olives, as in the days of Ho- race : — ROUTE 143. — ANCONA TO NAPLES. — FERMO. 47 insuper addes Pressa Venafranae quod bacca remisit olivae. Sat. ii. 4, 68. viridique certat Bacca Yenafro. Od. ii. 6. Its antiquities have nearly all dis- appeared, and the only vestiges now remaining are some fragments supposed to belong to the amphitheatre, a small portion of the polygonal walls, and some inscribed stones. The modern town, placed below the site of the an- cient, is the see of a bishop, and is highly picturesque at a distance. The feudal castle of the Caracciolo family, occupying a commanding position above it, had formerly fresco portraits of the horses for whose breed the family were famous ; but the castle has lost all its grandeur, and is now hardly worth a visit. Many of the inscriptions record- ing the names of the personages to whom the horses were presented or sold are curious; one is dated 1524. Venafro was twice desolated by the plague in the last cent. After Venafro, the road for many miles is perfectly level. At the point where it approaches the Volturno, a stone bridge, called the Ponte del Re, leads into the Royal Chase of Venafro, which abounds with majestic oaks and is full of wild boars. The road pro- ceeds at a little distance from the rt. bank of the river, passing on the rt. the villages ofVallecupa, Rocca Pipi- rozza, and Sesto. The hills are finely wooded: the high cultivation of the plains gives great variety to the land- scape, and the mixture of rock and mountain with the other features of the country is calculated to remind the tra- veller of many parts of Devonshire. Leaving Presenzano on the rt., we reach lj Taverna di Caianiello, a country inn, where this road falls into that from Rome by Ceprano at the Quadrivium. (7 m. Torricella.) U Calvi. (4 m. Lo Spartimento.) 1J Capua. 1 A versa. 1| Naples. ROUTE 143. ANCONA TO PESCARA, BY THE SHORES OF THE ADRIATIC, AND FROM PES- CARA TO NAPLES, BY POPOLI. Leaving Ancona, the road passes at the 18th m. through Loreto (Hand, for Central Italy , Rte. 88), and reaches 21 m. Porto di Recanati ( 3000 Inhab,), a small town on the coast. Thence to Civita Nuova, where it crosses the Chienti, which separates the Delega- tions of Macerata and Fermo. 18 m. Porto di Fermo (there are 3 Inns here; the Lione -very good in 1857), prettily situated on the Adriatic ancl much frequented during the villeggia- tura season. It is the Castrum Fir- manum of Pliny. The scenery in its neighbourhood is very fine. From Porto di Fermo a road of 4 m. leads to Porto di S. Elpidio, 4 m. beyond which is Porto di Civita Nuova ; from the latter a very good road of 13 m. to Macerata. (See Handbook of Central Italy , Rte. 88.) Another road branches off to [Fermo (14,000 Inhab.), Firmim Picenum, the see of an archbishop, and the residence of the Delegate of the province, which has an area of 252 sq. miles and 110,300 Inhab. It is situ- ated 5 m. inland on a hill commanding a great extent of interesting country. During the Social War Pompey took re- fuge here after his defeat by Judalicius and Afranius, the latter of whom he eventually defeated under its walls. It was occupied by Csesar on his march from Rimini. It was taken and retaken by Belisarius and Totila. The cathedral is dedicated to Sta. Maria Assunta. One of the chs. is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Juno, The Rtes. ” 140, 141. ROUTE 143 . — ANCONA TO NAPLES. ASCOLI. / - 48 college was founded in 1632, by Urban VIII. The neighbourhood abounds with charming scenery, and the inhabitants are courteous and in- structed. “At Fermo,” says Valery, “ are still shown the ruins of the house of Qliverotto, one of the model tyrants proposed by Machiavel in his Prince. Oliverotto declared himself prince of Fermo, after having massacred his uncle, who had brought him up, and the principal inhabitants of the town, at a banquet ; his reign did not exceed a year, as he was waylaid and strangled at Sinigallia, with Vitellozzo, his tutor in crime and in war, a victim worthy of his more dexterous rival Cesar Borgia.” The citadel of Fermo was one of the last strongholds which Francesco Sforza possessed in the March of Ancona, during his struggle with the pope and other Italian princes in the 15th cent.] Before reaching Porto di Ascoli, 5 m. off the road, is \Ripatransone, 5000 Inhab., skuated on a hill surrounded by walls; it is supposed to occupy the site of the Etruscan city of Cupra Montana. Pius V. in 1571, gave it the title of city; it has a cathedral dedicated to S. Gregory the Great. In the hill beneath the town is a remarkable cavern.] The road passes the pretty villages of Grotte a Mare ( Cupra maritima) and San Benedetto. 25 m. Porto di Ascoli, the Papal frontier ; passports must be vise'ed here, before entering the Neapolitan States. From here a road leads to [Ascoli, Asculum Picenum, 20 m. off to the rt., the capital of a Delegation of 358 sq. miles with 92,000 Inhab. It occupies a beautiful position, on the Tronto, close to the Neapolitan fron- tier; it is the see of a bishop, and although a dull and dilapidated place, it has 12,000 Inhab. It was the first city which declared against Rome at the commencement of the Social War. It sustained a memorable siege by Pompey, who compelled it to surrender and beheaded its principal inhabitants. During the Gothic wars it was besieged and taken by Totila. Its cathedral is said to have been built by Constantine, on the ruins of a temple of Hercules. It was the birthplace of Nicholas IV. The fortress was built from the de- signs of Antonio Sangalio, and several of the public buildings were designed by Cola dell ’ Amatrice, whose Last Supper, painted for the oratory of the Corpus Domini , gained for him a dis- tinguished name throughout the pro- vince. From Ascoli a mountain bridle path leads by Civitella del Tronto to Teramo, 22 m.] 1 m. The Tronto ( Truentus ) is the boundary of the Papal States; the Nea- politan custom-house is on its S. bank at Martin Sicuro , the Roman station of Castrum Truentinum. (Inn: Locanda Cesarini ). Here passports are vise'ed, and the luggage examined. If it con- tains articles subject to duty, the tra- veller is escorted by a guard as far as Giulia Nuova, where he may be de- tained some time. Tronto is 1 m. from Porto di Ascoli. Between the Tronto and Pescara the shores present a plain extending from the Apennines to the sea, and vary- ing from several m. to only \ m. in breadth. It is highly cultivated, and enjoys a mild temperature, but has little to interest the traveller. 10 m. Giulia Nuova (3000 Inhab. — Inn : small but tolerable), on a hill 1 m. from the shore, is the cus- tom-house station for the province. It was built in the 15th cent, by Giulio Acquaviva, Duke of Atri, who removed thither, as a healthier spot, the remaining inhabitants of Castrum Novum, which was then called San Flaviano, from the body of a saint of that name brought there from By- zantium in the middle ages. The ruins of S. Flaviano are below Giulia Nuova on the 1. bank of the Tordino (Bat inns). The plain near them was the scene of the drawn battle, fought July 27, 1460, between the armies of John Duke of Anjou, commanded by Niccolo Pic- cinino, and of the Milanese allies of Ferdinand I. of Aragon, commanded by Alessandro Sforza and Federigo di Montefeltro. This battle, one of the most sanguinary conflicts in Ita- lian history, lasted 7 hours, during the last 3 of which by torchlight. When the generals of each army re- ROUTE 143. — TERAMO. — CIY1TELLA DEL TRONTO. — MONTE CORNO. 49 called their men, neither was in a position to pursue the other, or to do more than retire from the scene of carnage, leaving all the baggage on the field. At daybreak the ravine near the castle was filled with the dead and dying; and a local chronicler re- cords that there was not a foot of ground near it which was not covered with “ bodies, blood, and armour.” EXCURSION TO TERAMO, CIVITEIXA DEL TRONTO, AND THE GRAN SASSO. From Giulia Nuova a road of 14 m. leads along the 1. bank of the Tordino, through a well-cultivated country to Teramo (8800 Inhab. — Inn: toler- able), the ancient Interamna, the capital of the province of Abruzzo Ultra I., and the see of a bishop, situated just above the junction of the Tordino and the Vezzola, and the residence of many rich families. The Gothic Ca- thedral, once remarkable, has been sadly modernised. In the neighbourhood are remains of an ancient amphitheatre, ruins of temples, baths, and aqueducts ; I many statues have also been found here, i The hills above the town command fine views of the Gran Sasso d’ Italia. From Teramo commences at present I the great post-road of the Abruzzi, for that from Aquila to Popoli is merely j a secondary branch. ITie distance from Teramo to Naples is 21f posts, i The mail courier travels it three times i a week, performing the journey to Naples in 38 hours. A bridle mountain path of 14 m. leads from Teramo to Civitella del Tronto (1800 Inhab.), placed on a hill near the Salinello. Its | castle is built on a rock of travertine. From the town to the sea-shore, rounded masses of breccia, containing fossil shells, mixed with pebbles, occur. In 1 557 the Duke de Guise, who com- I manded the army of Henry II. leagued J with Paul IV. against Philip II., laid siege to Civitella, which was defended | with great bravery by its garrison. The |j inhab., even the women, joined the garrison in the defence. After three j [8. Italy.-] | weeks, the Duke de Guise, mortified at I the Pope’s failure to provide him with | reinforcements, and unwilling to risk a battle with the Duke of Alva, w'ho at the head of 22,000 men was advancing from Giulia Nuova to meet him, raised the siege, and retreated towards Rome. A new road (41 m.) has been opened from Teramo to Aquila. It follows the 1. bank of the Vomano, passing near Senarica (200 Inhab.), which was for many centuries the smallest re- public in the world ; it then traverses the narrow valley of Tottea, and by the wild passes of Monte San Franco passes into the valley of the Aterno. The Ascent of the Gran Sasso d’ Italia, called also the Monte Como, is best made from Teramo ; but travellers who undertake it must be prepared to find scarcely any accommodation. In fact it should not be attempted with- out getting letters of introduction at Teramo for some of the proprietors residing at Montorio or Isola. The middle of July is the best time for the ascent. On leaving Teramo the new road is followed as far as Montorio; whence, after crossing the Vomano, a mountain path will lead by Tes- siccia to Isola. where mules and guides must be obtained, and where the night is spent. Isola (800 Inhab.) stands at the foot of the Gran Sasso on a penin- sula nearly surrounded by two small streams, the Marone and the Ruzzo. The single pyramid of Monte Como, broken into tremendous precipices, rises immediately above it, and is scarcely ever lost sight of during the whole ascent. A wild path, nearly 8 m. long, but which will take about 4 hours, leads from Isola to the Mar gone or Arapietra, a rocky ridge surrounded by rich pastures, where mules are left. The tourist ought to be at this spot by sunrise ; the rest of the ascent must be made on foot. The scenery of the ascent is perfectly Alpine in its cha- racter, presenting a magnificent variety of wood-crowned hills, torrents, water- falls, and precipitous ravines, which constitute some of the most striking scenes in Italy. The height of Monte Corno is 10,154 Eng. ft. The upper ranges abound with chamois. D 50 ROUTE 143. ANCONA TO NAPLES. — ATRT. — PESCARA. About 6 m. E. from Isola is Castelli, a small village that acquired some cele- brity for a manufactory of the so-called Abruzzi earthenware , which was carried to such perfection as to be placed on a level with that of Faenza. The art is now lost, but some of the specimens in the cabinets, of the curious are re- markable for correctness of design and vivacity of colour. After leaving Giulia Nova the Tor- dino is crossed, and 2 m. farther is Monte Pagano, where there are three inns with fair accommodation. About 2 m. farther S. the Vomano, a broad stream, very formidable when swollen by the winter torrents of the Gran Sasso, is forded. 3 m. beyond the Yomano a road branches off to [Atri (7000 Inhab.), the see of a bishop, on a commanding eminence 5 m. inland, with an extensive and most striking view. There are few cities in this part of Italy which have such high claims to antiquity as Hadria Picena. Its coins, of which there is a complete series in the local col- lection of the Sorricchio family, are amongst the heaviest specimens known, exceeding in weight the oldest Roman asses, and have been assigned to a very remote antiquity, some referring them to the Etruscan, others to the Greek settlers, and others to the Roman Colony established there about 282 b.c. The family of the Emperor Hadrian came originally from this city, though he was born in Spain. Nume- rous remains of public edifices, baths, and walls attest the size and conse- quence of the city. It had a port at the mouth of the Piomba ( Matrinus ). In the neighbourhood are several remark- able subterranean chambers, regularly distributed, and resembling those of Syracuse. The tribune of the cathe- dral, one of the most perfect Gothic buildings in the Abruzzi, is covered with old frescoes.] Farther S. is the post station of the Osteria Galvano, posts, near the inn of Silvi, which is cleaner than usual in these parts. After crossing the Piomba, a road leads to [Civita Santangelo (7000 Inhab.), 4 m. inland, supposed to be the ancient Angulos of the Vest ini'} After fording the Salino Maggiore, Salmas, a dangerous stream when swollen by heavy rains, a road branches off to [Civita di Penne, Pinna (10,000 Inhab.), picturesquely situated on a hill 14 m. inland. It was the chief town of the Vestini, and during the Social War resisted the Roman army that besieged it. It still exhibits remains of ancient buildings. It is now the chief town of the district.] The road, before reaching Pescara, skirts a low range of hills on the rt. covered with villas, which form the commune of Castellammare (4000 In- hab.), and are frequented as watering- places. 25 Pescara (1450 Inhab. — Inn: La Posta; very bad), the ancient Aternum, is a fortified town at the mouth of the river of the same name. It is a dull and miserable place, situated in an unhealthy plain, heavily afflicted with malaria. It owes its importance wholly to its being a military station. The fortress was built by Charles V. At the mouth of the Pescara, Sforza di Cotignola, the celebrated condoftiere, then in the service of Joanna II., perished while leading his army across the river on the 3rd of January, 1424. On that day he marched out of Ortona with his victorious army on his way to Aquila. It is related that he received many warnings by dreams and by the predictions of astrologers against setting out, and that his attendants considered as an evil omen the accidental fall of his standard-bearer when leaving Or- tona, by which the banner was torn. But Sforza declared that if such omens frightened others, they would not frighten him. The fortress of Pe- scara was occupied by the troops of Braccio di Montone, and, all the ordi- nary fords having been impeded by the garrison, Sforza determined to cross the broad but insecure mouth of the stream. Stormy weather increased the dangers of the passage. While stand- ing in the middle of the river, direct- ROUTE 143 . — ORTONA. — LANClANO. — VASTO d’aMMONE. ol ing the troops, Sforza saw his favourite page, Mangone, carried out of his depth; in endeavouring to save him, the hind legs of his horse slipped, and the weight of his heavy armour prevented his making any effort to save himself, lie instantly disappeared, but his iron- girt hands were twice seen above the waves, as if imploring assistance. The horse rose again, but Sforza’s body was never found. EXCURSION TO ORTONA, LANCIANO, AND VASTO. From Pescara a tolerable country road runs along the shore in a SJL. direction to 4 m. Francavilla (3600 Inhab„), placed on a hill between the A lento and the Faro. 6 m. Ortona (8100 Inhab.) occupies the site, and retains the name of Orton , a naval arsenal of the Frentcini . Placed on a promontory projecting into the sea, it commands an extensive view of the Adriatic, the Maiella Mountains, and the distant Gran Sasso. Its port has been blocked up, but it still ex- ports great quantity of wines, which are the best in this part of Italy. Ortona was the favourite winter resi- dence of Margaret of Austria, widow of Alessandro de’ Medici and of Ottavio Farnese. She died there in a magni- i ficent palace she had erected, and which still exists, but in a dilapidated state. The road quits the coast, and proceeds inland to I 7 m. Lanciano, Anxanvm (13,900 Inhab.), the see of an archbishop, and the chief town of the most populous district of Abruzzo Citra. The neigh- j bouring countiy, as well as all the shores of this mountainous province, is fertile, and has extensive olive- grounds and vineyards, producing a species of malmsey ( Malvasia ). Lan- | ciano is built on three hills, two of which are connected by a remarkable j bridge referred to the 3rd cent., and I called the Bridge of Diocletian. The j cathedral, called S. Maria del Ponte, is built upon this bridge. The house of • Anjou endeavoured to increase the prosperity of Lanciano, and conferred on it the privilege of coining money. In the middle ages it was famous for its fair which lasted 29 days. It was at the siege of Lanciano in 1423 that Braccio and Sforza first measured arms together. [A new road, called Frentana, 47 m. long, has been opened from Ortona by Lanciano to Roccarasa, where it joins the high post road (Rte. 142). The tract which is finished starts from Roccarasa, and, skirting the S. flank of the Maiella, reaches Palena (12 m.), and 4 m. farther Taranta ; whence, by a long gallery through Monte Ciricolo, arrives at Lama, 2 m. off. From the latter place avia naturale leads to Casoli (8 m.), and thence to Lanciano (14 m).] A good via naturale from Lanciano crosses the Sangro near its mouth, the Osente, and the Asinello, and proceeds to 18 m. Vasto d’Ammone (10,900 Inbab. Inn: indifferent), Histonium, on a hill a few hundred yards from the sea. Numerous ruins of ancient edi- fices attest its former grandeur and ex- tent. In the Piazza there is an old inscription, which records the fact of L. Valerius Pudens having at thirteen years of age borne away the prize of Latin poetry in the contests held at Rome in the temple of Jupiter Capito- linus. Jacopo Caldora, the leader of the combined armies of Joanna II. , Martin V., and Filippo Maria Visconti, built a palace, of which there are large remains. Vasto is still a place of some importance ; its olive-grounds are rich. The Palazzo of the d Avalos family, formerly its feudal lords, which was enlarged and furnished by the Marchese di Pescara, the conqueror of Francis I., is said to be still in the same state and with the same furniture and pictures as when the hero’s wife, Vittoria Co- lonna, inhabited it. Both Vasto and Ortona suffered much in the 14th centy. from the “Free Companions” of Fra Monreale. In summer it is possible to proceed from Vasto to Termoli (18 m.) by a via naturale, and thence to Foggia; but. the traveller would have to undergo j great hardships and discomforts. Ter- f d 2 52 ROUTE 143. ANCONA TO NAPLES. — CHIETI. — MAIELLA. moli will be visited with greater facility from Naples (Rte. 145). On leaving Pescara the road follows the rt. bank of the river, which in the upper part of its course is called Aterno, the ancient Aternus, but below Popoli assumed the name of Pescara in the 7th centy. Cicero and Livy state that during the 2nd Punic war it was re- ported, among other prodigies, that the Aternus had flowed with blood: Se- natui nunciatum est Aternum flumen san- guine fluxisse. The prodigy is seen sometimes in our days, when there is a sudden and heavy rain after a long drought in the upper valleys of Castel- vecchio and Subequo, abounding in deeply coloured ferruginous sand. The Pescara is the boundary between the provinces of Abruzzo Citra and Abruzzo Ultra I. Osteria di Carabba, at the foot of the hill of Chieti. Close by it on the 1. an ascent of 2 m. leads to 1 Chieti (17,000 Inhab. — Inn: Aquila d’Oro, tolerable), the capital of the Abruzzo Citra, the ancient Teate Marrucinorum : Cui nobile nomen Marrucina domus, clarumque Teate ferebat. Sil. Ital. xvii. 45?. It stands on a hill commanding a fine view, is the see of an archbishop, and the residence of many rich families. The Abbate Galiani, who, as Neapoli- tan Secretary of Embassy, shone among the “beaux esprits” at the court of Louis XVI., was a native of Chieti. The order of the Theatines took their name from this place, their founder, Paul IV., having been its archbishop*. Of the many remains of Teate , the most remarkable are — seven large halls, part, perhaps, of some Thermae, near the Tint or ia, ruins of a gateway* and of a large theatre near the Porta Reale , and several inscriptions built into the walls of the cathedral, some of which refer to the Asinian family, to which Asinius Pollio, the friend of Horace and of Virgil, belonged. The churches of S. Paolo and of Sta. Maria del Tricaglio ( a tribus callibus') stand on the foundations of temples of Hercules and of Diana Trivia. From Chieti there is a road of 16 m. to Lanciano. Returning to the high road, 12 m. from the Osteria di Carabba, we cross the Orta, a mountain stream, and 1 m. beyond, on the 1. bank of the Pescara, are the rui'ns of a monastery, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and called San Clemente from a pope of that name. It was founded by the emperor Louis II. for the purpose of receiving the body of that pope, which he obtained from Adrian II. in 866. Remains of the church and monastery, some bas- reliefs, and the brazen gates inscribed with the names of the possessions of the establishment, still attest the ex- tent and wealth of the foundation. [The tourist fond of wild scenery may follow here a path on the 1. which by S. Valentino leads to Roccamorice (4 m.), situated on one of the lower slopes of the Maiella. About 3 m. from the latter place, at a spot called For- nelli, fine large crystals of sulphate of strontian are found. From Roccamo- rice the path ascends the valley of the Orfenta to the Piano del Molino, where it is abruptly closed by the peaks of Monte Cavallo, Monte Mucchia , and Monte Amaro, the highest peak of the Maiella group (8956 ft.). Here the Orfenta has its origin from a beautiful double waterfall descending from the stupendous buttresses of Monte Cavallo and Monte Mucchia. Another path descends from the Piano del Molino through Caramanico to Salle , whose inhabitants, as well as those of Mosel- laro and Bolognano , villages near it, | have long enjoyed the reputation of manufacturing the best strings for mu- sical instruments. From Salle the tourist may either rejoin the high road below Tocco, or, crossing the ridge of the Morrone, whose highest peak is 6862 ft., descend to Solmona (Rte. 142) through the long and narrow gorge of i Valle di Mala Cupa, covered with thick forests in which the Santolina Alpina grows most luxuriantly. The excursion by S. Valentino and Roccamorice to the waterfalls of the Orfenta, and thence | through Caramanico and Salle to Tocco, ROUTE 144. — NAPLES TO ROME. 53 will occupy a little more than 5 hours, and therefore, by starting early from Chieti, it will be possible to accom- plish it and reach Popoli in the even- ing. But if it is prolonged by crossing the Morrone and descending to Sol- mona, it will take at least 8 hours, as most of the excursion must be made on foot.] 1 Turri, post station. Half way be- tween Turri and Popoli is the village of Tocco (4000 Inhab.), picturesquely situated on a cliff overhanging the road on the 1. It was the birthplace of Carlo di Tocco, a lawyer of the 12th centy., from whom the Princes of Monte- miletto descend. The valley beyond this contracts into a narrow gorge about 3 m. long, called Intermonti, whose steep limestone sides appear to have been cut through by the river Pescara forcing its way between them. m. Popoli, situated at the upper end of the pass, where the Aterno by a sudden bend changes its direction to the N.E., and becomes the Pescara. Here this route falls into Rte. 142, p. 41. ROUTE 144. NAPLES TO ROME, BY S. GERMANO, SORA, AVEZZANO, TAGLIACOZZO, AND TIVOLI. The scenery of this route is very beautiful ; the way of seeing it to the best advantage is to follow it from Naples to Rome, going up the valley of the Liris. The inns are very bad, and in some places there are none ; it will therefore be useful to get letters of introduction to the resident pro- prietors before leaving Naples. As there are neither post-horses nor vet- turini on the line, the best plan will be to hire a light carriage as far as Avezzano, and allow a return fare to Naples. The carriage should be sent so as to reach Capua very early; the traveller may start by the 7 o’clock train, which will give him time to visit the Amphitheatre at Santa Maria (Excursions from Naples'), and pro- ceed by the next train to Capua, from which he should set out by 11 o’clock. He will stop to bait at the Taverna di Caianiello, and reach S. Germano in the evening. On the 2nd day he can visit in the morning Montecasino, leave S. Germano soon after 12, see the remains of Aquino and Rocca d’Arce, and go to Sora. On the 3rd day visit Arpino, the falls of the Liris, the island of S. Paolo, the lake of Posta, and return to Sora. The 4th day ascend the valley of Roveto, visit the Falls of Morino or Civita d’Antino, see the en- trance of the Claudian Aqueduct below Capistrello, and the Cunicoli under Monte Salviano, and sleep at Avezzano. On the 5th day visit Celano and Alba, and reach Tagliacozzo. At the latter place horses must be hired to proceed to Tivoli. The beau- tiful and interesting country along this route, as far as Sora or Avezzano, may be explored as an excursion from Naples. Starting from Naples by Capodichino, the road passes through 16 m. Capua, by Rly. 4 m. Lo Spartimento. 4 m. Calvi. 1 m. Torricella. 2 m. Teano. 5 m. Taverna di Caianiello. 6 m. Taverna di Caianiello. 8 m. Taverna di Mignano. 10 m. S. Germano. 9 m. La Melfa. J 5 m. Arce (1500 Inhab.), the fron- tier custom-house of the road from Ceprano to Isola, is on the slope of a Rte. 140. •R. 141. I 54 ROUTE 144. NAPLES TO ROME. — ISOLA. conical hill crowned by the mediaeval fortress of Rocca d’Arce. There is a small tavern near the dog ana, but it affords no accommodation. The position of Rocca d’ Arce, still occu- pying the site of the ancient Arx, is very striking. It has many remains of polygonal walls, and is a picturesque object from all parts of the surrounding country. It was strongly fortified during the middle ages, and was con- sidered impregnable. It is supposed to be the ancient Arcanum, near which was the villa of Quintus Cicero, men- tioned by his brother in his letters to Atticus, and in the dialogues De Le- gibus : locum restate umbrosiorern vidi nunquam. Many inscriptions have been discovered in which the names of the Cicero family occur. Some ruins on the east are called L’aja di Cicerone , or Cicero’s Barn, and a ruined aqueduct is supposed to be that which Quintus employed the architects Messidius and Philoxenus to construct. From Arce we proceed parallel to the l . bank of the Liris ; but the river is sel- dom visible from the road. Soon after crossing a sulphurous stream, we see on a hill on the rt. the village of Fontana, and on the - 1. beyond the frontier Monte S. Giovanni, formerly known for its vast and wealthy monastery. At the 4th m. from Arce a road of 4 m. branches oft' on the rt. to Arpino. Close to the road, a few m. before reaching Isola, the Liris forms a series of rapids, called La Natrella, close to the small island of San Paolo. Near it is a ruined arch, the remains of a Roman bridge which here crossed the river. 7 to. Isola (4000 Inhab. — Inn : small, but clean), remarkable for the Falls of the Liris. It is built on a small island surrounded by two branches of the river, at the foot of an elevated plat- form on which stands the old feudal castle of the former dukes of Sora. The river is divided by this mass of rock into two branches, which rush down from the platform on either side of the castle, forming the principal cas- cades. The first fall is perpendicular, and is nearly 100 feet high ; the second is at the extremity of the town, where the main branch of the river rushes down an inclined plane, many hundred feet in length, forming a majestic com- bination of cascade and cataract. At the foot of the fall is a cloth manufac- tory, through which the water is car- ried to turn the mills. The finest view of Isola and the upper valley of the Liris as far as Sora is from the hill of S.. Giovenale, facing the town on the rt. of the road. Isola has several cloth, linen, and paper mills, which supply the northern provinces of the kingdom. The tra- veller cannot fail to be struck with the peculiar beauty of the women of Isola, Sora, and Arpino. They are amongst the handsomest in Italy. Their costume is perfectly Greek. They wear sandals pointed at the toe, red petticoats, and blue and red striped aprons, behind as well as in front, pre- cisely in the manner of the modern Greeks. The pitchers which they carry on their heads are quite classical in their forms. From Isola the tra- veller may cross into the Roman States, and visit Casamari (4 m.) (Rte. 141, p. 25). After leaving Isola the road ascends a gentle slope, at the end of which is the Cartiera del Fibreno , the paper manufactory of Mons. Lefebvre, recently created Count of Balzorano, the machinery of which is driven by the Fibreno, which here falls into the Liris. In the gardens of this gentle- man are the Cascatelle, or little falls, of the two rivers. Those of the Fibreno, although coming from the manufactory, are very fine, and would be considered striking in any other place ; but those of the Liris are so beautiful as to monopolise admiration. The inclined surface of rock down which the river rushes is broken trans- versely in five or six places, and at each of these a separate cascade is formed. The Fibrenus is men- tioned by Cicero as remarkable for the coldness of its waters. It abounds with delicious trout. About a mile beyond this is the monastery of S. Domenico Abate, on the Isola 8. Faolo, an island formed by the Fibreno shortly before its falling into the Liris, and identified with the Insula ROUTE 144 .— CICERO’S VILLA. — ARPINO. 55 Arpinas, Cicero’s birthplace, the scene of his dialogues De Legibus, and the spot where he composed his orations for Plancius and Scaurus. The ch. was built from the ruins of Cicero’s Arpine villa ; in its walls, seen from the front garden of the monastery, are several fragments of Doric ornaments, tri- glyphs, and bas-reliefs. The subterra- nean ch., said to date from 1030, is curious for its architecture, approach- ing that of the early Saxon style in England ; it is the place where S. Do- menico Abate died. The low columns, of granite and marble, with capitals of different orders, were also taken from the ruins of Cicero’s villa. At the dis- tance of 10 minutes’ walk is an inscrip- tion, placed, it is said, many years ago by an English traveller, and now almost illegible, stating that it marks the exact site of the villa, but no remains of foun- dations are now visible. Cicero was very fond of this island, and in one of his dialogues he reminds Atticus that his ancestors had lived there for many generations, and that his father had rebuilt the villa : — Ego vero , cum licet plures dies abesse, prcesertim hoc tempore anni, et amcenitatem hanc et salubritatem sequor ; raro auteni licet. . . Hcec est mea et hujus fratris mei germani patria; hie enim orti stirpe antiquissima ; hie sacra , hie genus, hie majorum multa vestigia. Quid plural hanc vides villam, ut nunc quidem est, lautius cedificatampatrisnostri studio ; qui cum esset infirma valetudine , hie fere cetatem egit in Uteris. Sed hoc ipso in loco cum avus viveret, et antiquo more parva esset villa, ut ilia Curiana in Sabinis, me scito esse natum ; quare inest nescio quid, et latet in animo ac sensu meo , quo me plus hie locus fortasse delecteL - De Leg. ii. 1. In the reply of Atticus we have a description of the site as complete and graphic as if it had been written yesterday : — Sed ventum in insulam est, hac vero nihil est amcenius, etenim hoc quasi rostro funditur Fibrenus, et divisus cequaliter in ducts partes , latera hcec adluit, rapideque dilapsus cito in unum confluit, et tantum complectitur quod satis sit modicce palestrae loci ; quo effecto, tan- quam id habuerit, operis ac muneris, ut hanc nobis ejficeret sedern ad disputandum, statim prcecipitat in Lirim, et quasi in familiam patriciam venerit, amittit nomen obscurius , Lirimque multo gelidioremfacit ; nec enim aliud hoc frigidius flumen attigi, quum ad multa adeesserim ut vix pede tentare id possim. We learn from his letters to Atticus that Cicero had here a library which he called Amalthea, in imitation of the name by which the great library of Atticus in Epirus was designated. Martial tells us that the island afterwards became the property of Silius Italicus: — Silius Arpino tandem succurrit agello; Silius etvatem non minus ipse tulit. Ep . XI. 49. Some antiquaries have placed Cicero’s villa at Carnello, another small island I m. higher up the stream ; but the unmistakeable description of its situa- tion given by Cicero, the local inspec- tion of the place showing that the Fibreno falls into the Liris shortly ( statim ) after forming the island of San Paolo, the remains found on the spot, and the tradition connected with it, leave no doubt whatever on the sub- ject. The great interest that every classical traveller must necessarily attach to a spot so full of associations with the great Roman orator and states- man will be our apology for having- entered into these details. Above the island, crossing the Liris at an oblique angle, are the ruins of a Roman bridge, called the Ponte di Ci- cerone. Only one of its three arches is now standing. After seeing the con- vent of S.. Domenico, travellers, before going to Sora, may visit Arpino. A road to it (4 m.) turns off to the 1. soon after passing the paper-mills on the Fibreno, and another lower down from Carnello. The views of the fertile and varied country which it commands, as it winds gradually up the mountain, are very beautiful. Arpino (12,500 Inhab.), the Vols- cian city of Arpinum, the birthplace of Cicero and Marius, two of the most illustrious names in Roman history. Its situation on two hills is so beautiful that we are at no loss to account for the partiality of Cicero, who, in one of his letters to Atticus, applies to it affectionately the description which Homer makes Ulysses give of his be- 56 ROUTE 144. NAPLES TO ROME. ARPINO. — SORA. loved Ithaca. The ch. of San Michele is said to occupy the site of a Temple of the Muses, and nine niches in its walls are supposed to have contained their statues. The Palazzo Gastello is the reputed site of the house of Marius, and the Strada della Cortina is pointed out by local tradition as the site of that of Cicero, though there is no authority for supposing that he had any dwelling here, except his native house at S. Paolo. The Palazzo del Comune is decorated with statues of Cicero and Marius ; the College is called the Collegio Tulliano ; the armo- rial bearings of the town consist of the simple letters M. T. C. ; and the inha- bitants still show their veneration for the great orator by frequently giving their sons the Christian names of Marco Tullio. The town has thriving manu- factories of paper, ribbons, and cloth. Many inscriptions preserved in the walls of the chs. and other buildings show that the ancient city was also remarkable for its woollen manufac- turers and fullers. The ch. of S. Maria di Civita occupies the site of a temple dedicated to Mercury Lanarius. Cicero’s father, according to Dion Cassius, was a fuller, and the name Tullius is of frequent occurrence in these inscriptions, as is that of Fufidius , y/hich is mentioned more than once in Cicero’s letters. Another inscription in the possession of the Vito family records the name of Titus Egnatius, the friend whom Cicero recommends to P. Servilius Isauricus as the generous companion of his exile, who had shared with him all the pains, the difficulties, and the dangers which he had under- gone during that most unfortunate pe- riod of his life. Modern Arpino was the birthplace of Giuseppe Cesarl, the painter, better known as the Cav. Arpino, whose house is still shown. The town has a theatre, but no good inn. The ancient citadel stands on the summit of the hill above the town, and is still called CivitaVecchia. The ascent is steep, but the ruins will amply repay the trouble. The Cyclopean walls are not so perfect as those of Alatri, as they were built upon and fortified in the middle ages, but enough remains to mark the strength and extent of the massive fortress. The finest relic to be seen here is the pointed gateway called the Porta del! Arco. It is con- structed of enormous polygonal blocks of stone, without cement, gradually converging upwards; and is unique as a gate, although in its general form and structure it bears some similarity to those of Mycenae and Tiryns and to certain pointed archways in the Etrus- can sepulchres of Cervetri. Near it are the remains of the ancient cloacae, of massive blocks, and in the same polygonal style. Some portions of an ancient pavement, retaining the marks of chariot-wheels, are also visible. The large square tower in the citadel is said to have been for some time the resi- dence of King Ladislaus. Lower down is a fine Roman arch, now used as one of the gateways of the modern town. Of the history of Arpinum we know little more than that it was one of the five Saturnian cities ; that about b.c. 302 its citizens obtained the Roman franchise, and later, b.c. 188, were en- rolled 'in the Cornelian Tribe and obtained the right of suffrage ; and that M. P. Cato and Pompey said it deserved the eternal gratitude of Rome for having given her two saviours. In the 15th centy., at the commencement of the war between Ferdinand I. and John of Anjou, Arpino embraced the Angevine cause, and was attacked and captured by Orsini, the general of Pius II., who favoured the claims of Ferdi- nand. The Pope, on hearing that Arpino had fallen, gave orders that it should be spared on account of Cicero and Marius, “ Parce Arpinatibus ob Gaii Marii et Marci Tullii memoriam.” If the traveller visits Arpino on his way to Naples, he may join the high road below Isola at the 4tli m. from Arce. On returning to the high road below Carnello, we follow the Liris to the gate of the town of 3 in. Sora (8000 Inhab. — Inn small but clean;, the chief town of a district, placed in a flat but not unpleasant posi- tion, and half surrounded by the Liris, which makes a bend round the city. The houses are large, and the streets 57 ROUTE 144. — LAKE OF LA POSTA. — ATINA. wide and well paved. On a rocky hill immediately behind it, closing as it were the entrance of the upper valley, are the remains of the Cyclopean walls of the ancient citadel, and the ruins of the feudal castle, which was the strong- hold successively of the Cantelmi, the Tomacelli, the Buoncompagni, and other powerful families. Sora, which gives a ducal title to the latter family, is the see of a bishop., and was the birthplace of Cardinal Baronius. In 1229 it was taken and burnt down by Frederick II. In front of the cathedral there are several ancient inscriptions and fragments of sepulchral monuments. The ancient Sora was taken by the Romans from the Yolsci, who revolted against the Roman settlers and admitted the Samnites, who were in turn expelled by the Romans. It was one of the refractory colonies in the second Punic war, and many years afterwards it was recolonized by order of Augustus. Juvenal represents it as one of those country towns in which an honest man might reside with comfort in that age of corruption : — Si potes avelli Circensibus, optima Sora, Aut Fabraterias domus, aut Frusinone paratur, Quanti nunc tenebras unum conducis in annum. Sat. m. 223. I The strong position of Sora, and its importance as a frontier fortress upon the great military road to the Abruzzi, has recently attracted the attention of the government, and engineers are now at work on its fortifications. seen bubbling up from the bottom. It abounds with wild fowl and delicious trout. 8 m. beyond it, after a consi- derable ascent through a picturesque country, we reach Atina, which retains its ancient name and position on a hill, 1300 ft. high, near the river Melfa. The view from it, embracing the Castle of Sora and the plain of the Melfa, is very striking; but the peculiar posi- tion and the lofty and bleak Apennines, which bound the horizon on all sides, and especially towards the S., give the place a wild and desolate aspect, and a dreary and inhospitable character to the landscape. Virgil speaks of Atina as a powerful city, “ Atina potens,” long before the foundation of Rome, and Cicero represents it as one of the most distinguished cities of Italy in his day. Some of the streets retain traces of their ancient pavement. Its polygonal walls, detached portions of which are still visible, enclosed the whole summit of the hill, part only of which is now occupied, and on the highest point, where probably the citadel stood, they are better preserved and of much larger blocks. There is also a gateway of Roman architecture, called the Porta Aurea, remains of an aqueduct, sub- structions of two temples, and nume- rous sepulchral monuments and inscrip- tions. 2 m. from Atina the road is carried through the pass of Cancello, 1682 ft. high. At the 4th m. it skirts the village of Belmonte , placed on a barren hill ; on the rt. lower down it crosses the rapids under the pictur- esque and thriving village of St. Elia , and after the 11th m. reaches S. Ger- mano. The scenery on coming down towards S. Elia is extensive and very beautiful. From Atina a bridle-road leads to Picinisco. {Rte. 142, p. 45.) The road from Sora to Capistrello traverses the Val di Roveto in a N.W. direction, ascending the 1. bank of the Xiris. The word Roveto signifies a thicket, and is well applied here, for the valley is one continued forest of oaks. The road passes 6 m. from Sora, below Balzorano (3000 Inhab.), a town placed on the slope of a rocky hill crowned by a baronial castle of the D 3 EXCURSION TO THE LAKE OF LA POSTA AND TO ATINA. From Sora a road across the moun- tains leads by Atina to S. Germano, and may be followed by travellers on their return, instead of passing again through Isola and Arce. 4 m. from Sora the road passes on the 1. the small lake of La Posta, from which the Fibrenus takes its origin. This beautiful sheet of water at the foot of a mountain, on the slopes of which are the villages of La Posta, Vicalvi, and Alvito, is of great depth, and so clear that the co- pious springs which supply it may be 58 ROUTE 144.— NAPLES TO ROME. AVEZZANO. Piccolominis. Numerous villages are scattered over the lower hills on each side of the valley, which is narrow and bounded on either side by lofty moun- tains. Those on the Papal frontier are covered with dense forests, which abound with wolves, and with the lynx, called by the peasantry gatto-pardo. About 7 m. beyond Balzorano we leave, nearly 2 m. off the road, on a high mountain on the rt, [ Civita d’ Antino (1800 Inhab.), the Antinum of the Marsians. It exhibits remains of its polygonal walls, and a gateway, still an entrance to the vil- lage, and called Porta Campanile. There is no inn, but the hospitable house of the Ferranti family has for many years liberally and cordially received travel- lers. In the vestibule of the house are preserved many Latin inscriptions, one of which to Varia Montana by her sur- viving parents is very touching.] About 8 m. beyond Bolzorano, and on the opposite side of the river, at the junction of a stream called Lo Schioppo or Romito , below the village of Morino, the Falls of the Romito are visible. A path of 4 m. ascending along the course of the stream leads to them. They are situated in a fine natural amphitheatre, formed by Monte Crepacore and Monte Cantaro. The principal waterfall, called Lo Schioppo, springs from the edge of the rock with great force, at a greater height than that of Terni, and in falling forms such a curve as to admit of passing behind it. About 4 m. farther on we reach 14 in. Civitella diRoveto (1500 Inhab.), where some refreshment can be got. It stands upon a height on the rt. bank of the river, between two small tribu- taries of the Liris. 3 m. beyond, the valley contracts into a defile, on the 1. of which is the village of Canistro on the top of a high and thickly wooded hill, and further on Peschio Canale, situated on a projecting rock which almost closes up the valley. The road, after passing through a narrow gorge, reaches 6 m. Capistrello (1400 Inhab.), perched on a mountain bank at the junction of the valley of Iioveto with the upper valley of Nerfa. In ascending to it the f*>ad passes by the mouth of the Emissary, formed by Claudius, for draining the lake Fucino, and of which we shall speak in describing that lake. This is the best point for examining the construction of this magnificent work. From Capistrello the road is carried through the upper extremity of the Campi Palcntini, along the line of the Emissary, passing by some of its Cunicoli or air-shafts. Tagliacozzo is seen at a distance on the 1. On ascend- ing Monte Salviano, which is covered with the wild sage ( salvia ) from which it derives its name, a magnificent view of the lake is obtained, backed by an amphitheatre of mountains, amongst which the Velino on the N. and the lofty range of the Maiella on the S. are seen rising majestically above the others. The whole scenery bears a strong re- semblance to some of the finest land- scapes of Switzerland. In descending, the road proceeds along the plain bor- dering the lake to 7 m. Avezzano (3800 Inhab. — Inn small and dirty), the chief town of a district, situated in a fertile plain co- vered with almond-trees and vineyards, at a distance of about 1 m. from the lake. The ch. of S. Bartolommeo con- tains an inscription recording the thanks of the Senate and people of Rome to Trajan for the land which he had reclaimed from the lake. The baronial castle, built by the Colonna, and now the property of the Barberini family, is a conspicuous object from the shores of the lake. It contains many Roman inscriptions discovered in the neigh- bourhood. The Lago Fucino ( Fucinus ), called also Lago di Celano, is said to have an area of 36,315 acres, and to be 35 m. in circumference. It is subject to rises and falls, which are difficult to explain ; hence its depth is subject to consider- able variations. In 1853 its deepest part was found to be 53 ft. near S. Bene- detto on the eastern shore. Being 2230 ft. above the level of the sea, frost is not uncommon along the shores, and the lake itself is known to have been frozen over in 1167, 1229, 1595, 1683, and 1726. It is well stocked with carp, pike, tench, and barbel. Its scenery is fine, espe- ROUTE 144 .— LAGO FUCINO. 59 cially towards the S. angle and on the E. shore, where the lofty mountains which overlook it offer good subjects for the pencil of the artist. These mountains abound with lynxes and wild boars ; the banks of the lake with vipers, and the lake itself with water- snakes. The ancient Marsi, the inhabit- ants of this district, are celebrated by the Roman poets for their skill in charming serpents ; and some of their descendants, even at this day, are found all over the kingdom earning a liveli- hood by the exhibition of their art: — Quin et Marrubia venit de gente sacerdos, Fronde super galeam et felici comptus oliva, Archippi regis missu, fortissimus Umbro : Vipereo generi et graviter spirantibus hydris Spargere qui somnos cantuque manuque sole- bat, Mulcebatque iras, et morsus arte levabat. Sed non Dardanige medicari cuspidis ictum Evaluit : neque eum juvere in vulnera cantus Somniferi, et Marsis queesitse in montibus herbse. Te nemus An git ice, vitrea te Fucinus unda, Te liquidi Severe lacus. Virg. JEn-. vii. 750. The history of the attempts made to relieve the towns on the shores of the lake from the destructive inundations to which they have been subject is given at great length by the Latin writers. The absence of any visible outlet for the abundant streams which flow into it led to the belief that its waters were discharged by unseen channels; and hence any unusual in- undation in the valleys of the Yelino or the Tiber was at once attributed to this cause. The Marsi petitioned J ulius Csesar to devise some means of carrying off the superabundant waters ; but no- thing was attempted until the reign of Claudius, who undertook to construct an emissary at his own cost, provided the Marsi gave up to him the land reclaimed by the drainage. The result of this arrangement was the emissary which conveys the waters into the Liris by a tunnel 3 m. and 788 yards long, cut through the Monte Salviano, almost in a direct line to Capistrello, and upon which 30,000 men were employed for eleven years. It is about 13 ft. in height and 6 in breadth, and its upper end, nearest the lake, at the spot called the Incile, is about 15 ft. below the bottom of the deepest part of the lake ; its general fall is about 1 in 810. It is in part cut through a solid calcare- ous rock, and in part through a loose slaty marl. It has 33 shafts ( pozzi ), from which, no doubt, the works were conducted and ventilation established within. The brickwork lining of parts of the emissary and some walls about the entrance and the cunicoli and stair- cases remain in a fair state of preserva- tion ; and in those parts w r here it has been carried through the solid rock the distances carved by the Roman work- men are still to be seen sharply cut. The naumachia and gladiatorial games which took place in honour of the event, in the presence of Claudius and Agrippina, are described by Sue- tonius and Tacitus; but when the waters were let into the passage, they met with an obstruction which caused them to regurgitate with such im- petuosity that the bridge of boats, on which the emperor and his court were assembled, was nearly destroyed. Ta- citus, after recording the heroic bravery of the malefactors who manned the fleet for this cruel display, describes the panic caused by this accident, and the accusations heaped by Agrip- pina upon Narcissus, the director of the works, who recriminated by an attack on her character and ambition. It is believed that at a subsequent period Claudius completed this magnificent work, which Pliny ranks among his greatest undertakings. Trajan ap- pears, from the inscription at Avezzano, to have recovered some land in the neighbourhood of that town, and Hadrian also made an attempt to drain the lake. The emperor Frederick II. ordered the emissary to be re-opened, but the work was stopped by his death. In the last cent, the Abbate Lolli examined its course, and induced king Ferdinand to turn his attention to the subject and at- tempt to repair the emissary in 1 786, but the war that soon broke out put an end to it. The work was resumed in 1826, and was much advanced in 1831, es- pecially on the side of Capistrello, when it was suspended. In 1852 the present king granted in perpetuity all the land that might be 60 ROUTE 144 .— NAPLES TO ROME. CELANO. reclaimed by draining the lake to a Company, who invited Mr. C. Hutton Gregory, an English engineer, to pre- pare plans for the restoration of the emissary. Mr. Gregory in 1854 recom- mended the enlargement of the emis- sary to an oval section about 14 ft. wide and 20 ft. high, straightening it in parts where it is crooked, and reduc- ing the bottom to a uniform inclina- tion. His plans embraced a complete system of sluices at the upper end to regulate the entrance of the water from the canal which was proposed to be cut to the deepest part of the lake. The estimate for the whole of these works was £217,000. Mr. Gregory expected that they would require 18 months to construct; that 18 months more were to be allowed for drawing off the water, and that about 30,000 acres of land would be reclaimed. Since then the draining has been undertaken by a company, at the head of which is Prince Torlonia, and is now progressing according to the plans of the late emi- nent French engineer, M. de Montricher, who brought the waters of the Durance to Marseilles. The operations, which it is expected will be completed in 1859, consists in widening the emissary and in preventing its future deterioration by extensive arching in masonry through the strata of clay and loose gravel in which a considerable portion of it is excavated, and in forming a large basin where the emissary leaves the lake so as to regulate the discharge of its waters. From Avezzano there are roads to Celano, Magliano, and Tagliacozzo ; to the latter place we shall prcfceed after visiting those towns near the lake which deserve particular observation. 6 m. Celano (4900 Inhab. — Tan, a common tavern), the most important town on the lake, is beautifully situated on a hill about 4 m. from its N.E. angle. The views in its neighbourhood are extremely interesting. The Piazza, or market-place, is itself a picture. Its Castle is a fine and striking specimen of the mediaeval military architecture in Italy. It was built about 1450 by one of the three husbands of the Countess Covella, and was till very recently in good preservation. The interior of this building, with its carved doorways and windows, chapel, & c., well deserves a visit. In the ch. of the Convento di Valle Verde, below the town, is the chapel of the Picco- lomini, which was painted by Giulio Romano. Celano was the birthplace of the Beato Tommaso di Celano, who died in 1253, and is considered by many to have been the author of the Requiem known by its first words, ‘ Dies Tree, dies ilia * The Contado of Celano is noted in Italian history for the misfortunes of the Countess Covella, and for the cruel and unnatural warfare waged against her by her son Ruggierotto. She was the last descendant of the Counts Ruggieri, of Norman extraction, who held a considerable tract of the neigh- bouring country. Her son, desirous of possessing himself of his mother’s lands, joined the Anjou party, and prevailed upon their captain, Piccinino, to support him in wresting the Con- tado from her. After seizing Celano, they besieged the Castle of Gagliano, in which the Countess had shut herself up in the hope of holding out until she should receive aid from Ferdinand of Aragon. But, after a few days, the fortress was carried by storm. Picci- nino seized the treasures on his own account, and consigned the strongholds of the Contado to Ruggierotto, who threw his mother into prison. Napoleone Orsini, who, in the name of Ferdinand and Pius II., destroyed the remnants of the French party in the Abruzzi, de- feated Ruggierotto, who set his mother at liberty to plead his cause with the Pope, who claimed the Contado himself. But Ferdinand, to avoid a quarrel, granted it, in 1463, to Antonio Piccolomini, Duke of Amalfi, the pope’s nephew and his own son-in-law, as a dower of his natural daughter, Mary of Aragon. There is a road (18 m.) practicable for carriages from Avezzano and Ce- lano to Popoli, whence the traveller may proceed to Rieti or Ancona (Rtes. 142, 143). It takes about 6 hrs., and proceeds through Coll’ Ar- mele, situated on a hill at the foot of ROUTE 144 .— PESCINA. — LUCO. 61 which the ancient Cerfennia stood, and through the pass called Forca Caruso , Goriano-Sicoli. and Bajano. (Rte. 142.) A bridle-road leads from Celano to Aquila (23 m.). It crosses the cold pass of Ovmdoli to Rocca di Mezzo , situ- ated in a dreary plain, and the only place which affords the least accom- modation. Between Rocca di Cagno and Aquila we pass the mediaeval Castle of Ocra. From Celano, descend- ing to and following the eastern shores of the lake, we reach San Benedetto , the site of Marruvium, the capital of the Marsi — Marruvium, veteris celebratum nomine Marri, Urbibus est illis caput. Sil. Ital. viii. 507. It was a flourishing town under the empire ; in the middle ages it was called Marsica , and was the birthplace of Leo Ostiensis and Boniface IV. ; but now it is a miserable hamlet near the banks of the Giovenco, the ancient Pitonius , a stream flowing into the lake from the valley of Or- tona a’ Marsi. Numerous remains have been found in its neighbourhood, and during the long drought of 1752 considerable ruins, now covered with water, were exposed, from which the statues of Nero, Agrippina, Claudius, and Hadrian were obtained and carried to Naples. East of it, about 2 hours’ walk from the lake, is Pescina (3000 Inhab.), picturesquely placed on the side of a gorge watered by the Giovenco, and the see of a bishop, still called Vescovo de Marsi. Its chief object of interest is the old house, perched on a crag jutting over the ravine, in which Cardinal Mazzarini was born on July 14, 1602. From S. Benedetto the path follows the shore in a S.E. direction to Ortucchio , placed on a low peninsula near the shore, and exposed to constant injury from the rising of the waters. It has a picturesque old castle with a drawbridge well preserved. Beyond the mountain of San Niccolo, also in the S.E. angle, the town of Archippe, said by Pliny to have been swallowed up by the lake, is supposed to have stood. Beyond this the mountains ij come so near the shore that it is not possible to proceed by land. On a promontory, about 4 m. further, stands Trasacco( 1400 Inhab.), supposed to be a corruption of trans aquas, and to hare been built on the ruins of a palace of Claudius ; it is situated in a fertile plain abounding in vineyards, almond plan- tations, and cornfields. It has nothing of interest except some ruins of a Gothic building and a picturesque old tower, in which Oderisio, Conte de’ Marsi, resided in 1050. Several in- | teresting inscriptions have been found 1 near it. A path of 4 m. along the shore leads to Lugo (2500 Inhab.), near the site of the Lucus Angitice, the celebrated grove of Angitia, the sister of Circe and Medea, commemorated by Virgil in the passage already quoted. At a later period a town grew up on the spot, which is called Angitia in inscriptions, but whose inhab. are called Lucenses by Pliny. Its ancient walls may still be traced, and on part of them the ch. j of Santa Maria , mentioned by Leo Os- tiensis, was built. Beyond Luco, and before reaching the mouth of the Emissary, there are two natural subterranean channels, where the water of the lake is absorbed with great force and with an audible noise ; the ancients believed that this w r ater reappeared in the two fine springs of the Laghetto di Sta. Lucia and of La Serena or Fonte Cerulea, in the valley of the Anio, and on the road from Tivoli to Subiaco, the former furnishing the water carried to Rome under the name of Aqua Marcia. The name of La Pedogna , given to the spot, is considered a corruption of Pitonius , the Giovenco, which was once supposed to pass through the lake without mixing with its waters. The chapel of S. Vin- cenzo is said to occupy the site of a temple dedicated to the deity of the lake under the name of Fucinus, which occurs in votive inscriptions discovered near the spot. The best way of visiting the towns on the lake will be to hire a two- 62 ROUTE 144. — NAPLES TO ROME. ALBE. — TAGLIACOZZO. oared boat at Avezzano. 3 m. N. of the latter town is the village of Albe (200 Inhab.), the ancient Alba Fijcensis, famous in the history of Rome for its fidelity to the Republic, and as the head-quarters of the Legio Marsica, which Cicero eulogises with so much enthusiasm in his Philippics. Alba occupied the treble crest of an isolated hil-l ; at present, the convent and ch. of S. Pietro, built amidst the ruins of the ancient city, occupy the first, an old tower of the middle ages occupies the second, called Colle di Pettorino, and the modern village the third and highest. Alba was the pri- son of Syphax king of Numidia (?), Perseus king of Macedonia and his son Alexander, Bituitus king of the Ar- verni, and other royal captives. Its walls present one of the most per- fect specimens of ancient fortification to be found in Italy. The polygonal blocks are so carefully put together that the interstices scarcely appear, and although the courses are irregular., the wall is perfectly smooth. The remains of an amphitheatre and of some baths are still visible. The ch. of S. Pietro is built upon the site of a tem- ple, the colonnade and portico of which have been incorporated with it. The pavement is composed of aneient mosaics, and numerous fragments of columns are preserved in different parts of the building. The view which it commands is very fine, embracing the plain of Tagliacozzo on the W., the valley of the Salto towards Rieti, and the entire lake on the S. In descending from Albe we leave, on a hill on the rt. bank of the Imele, the village of Magliano (2200 Inhab.), in the midst of a district known in Roman times for its iron and copper mines ; and join the road below, which is in very good condition as far as Tagliacozzo, along the line of the Via Valeria, passing by the hamlet of Capelle and Scurcola (1500 Inhab.), on the lower declivity of a steep hill bordering the Campi Palentini , close by the spot where the young Conradin, the last of the house of Hohenstaufen, and the flower of the Ghibelin chivalry, were defeated by Dharles I. of Anjou, on the 26th of August, 1268,— a battle which was followed by the execution of Conradin, and the preponderance of the Guelph party throughout Italy. The success of this conflict has been ascribed to the advice given to Charles by Alard de St. Valery, a French no- bleman, who was on his return from the Holy Laud, and whose services on this occasion are commemorated by Dante : — E la da Tagliacozzo Ove senz’ arme vinse il vecchio Alardo. Inf. xxviii. 17. “After the battle, the king,” says Vasari, “ sent for Niecolo di Pisa to erect a very rich church and abbey on the site of his victory, wherein should be buried the great number of men killed in the battle, and where, in accordance with his command, masses might be performed by many monks, night and day, for the benefit of their souls ; and the building being finished, Charles was so well satisfied with the work that he paid Niccolo great honours and re- wards.” This Cistercian monastery is now in ruins, but it retains the name of Santa Maria della Vittoria. An image of the Madonna, which was executed in France by order of Charles, and is covered with fleurs-de-lis, still exists in the ch. of Santa Maria in Scurcola. 5 m. further across the Campi Palen- tini, following the line of the Via Valeria , we arrive at 9 m. Tagliacozzo (4500 Inhab.), the most important town of the district, situated on the rt. bank of a deep ra- vine in which the Imele takes its ori- gin. The inn or tavern is wretched, but an introduction to the Mastroddi family will be sure to obtain admission into their hospitable palazzo on the piazza below the hill. Its fine stair- case contains some marble fragments and Roman inscriptions. The excursion to the Cicolano dis- trict (Rte. 142) may be accomplished from Tagliacozzo. Another may be made to the Sources of the Liris below the village of Cappadocia. The scenery is wild and romantic beyond descrip- tion, and, the path being only 5 m.. 63 ROUTE 144. — VIA VALERIA. there will be time to see it after reaching Tagliacozzo, if the traveller he a good pedestrian. — Mules or horses and a guide must be hired to proceed to Tivoli, about 30 m. distant. The path follows in great part the line of the Via Valeria * which connected Alba with Tibur, passing by 3 m. Rocca di Cerro (400 Inhab.), on a hill bounding the pass on the N. W., and commanding an extensive view of the valley. From here the path de- scends along the Mola torrent, leaving , the hamlet of Colli on the rt,, to 8 m. Carsoli (1000 Inhab.), with a ruined castle, which preserves the name of Carseoli, a station on the Via Valeria, the site of which may be traced in the vineyards about 2 m. be- low, after crossing the Turano, in the wood or Macchia di Sessara, and in the plain of Cavaliere, which is encircled by towns perched picturesquely on their hills. Great part of its walls, built of massive blocks, portions of towers, an aqueduct, &c., are still visible. Carseoli was for a short time the prison of Bitis, the son of the king of Thrace. Ovid, who passed by it on his way to Sulmona, tells us that it was a cold place : — * The Via Valeria was opened by M. Valerius Maximus, about b.c. 260, from Tibur to Cor- finium, and subsequently carried as far as Hadria. The stations on it were — Tibur, Carseoli, Alba Fucentia, Marrubium, Cerfennia, Statulae, Corfinium, Interpromium, Teate, Hadria, Tivoli. near Carsoli. Albe. S. Benedetto. near Coll’ Armele. Goriano Sicoli. S. Felino. Below S. Valentino. Chieti. Atri. Frigida Carseoli, nec olivis apta ferendis, Terra, sed ad segetes ingeniosus ager. Hac ego Pelignos, natalia rura, petebam ; Parva, sed assiduis uvida semper aquis. Fast. iv. 683. The pavement of the Valeria still bears marks of chariot-wheels. Several in- scriptions have been found in the plain and along the line of the Valeria, re- cording the Collegium JDendrophorum, or corporation of woodcutters, who must have been of great importance in a country so wooded as the Abruzzi. 1 m. beyond the ruins is Cavaliere, the Nea- politan frontier station, where pass- ports are viseed and luggage examined. There is a tavern, where some indifferent refreshment can be ob- tained. Beyond this, following the Valeria for 3 m., we reach Arsoli (. Arsula ), the Roman frontier station, and afterwards Roviano, a feudal castle of the Sciarras, close to the rt. bank of the Anio, which the road follows, to S. Cosimato. A bridle-path on the rt., avoiding the circuitous route by Arsoli, ascends to Rio Freddo, the Ro-> man frontier station, on a hill at the head of a deep ravine, through w'hicb runs a stream of the same name that falls into the Anio, and thence it joins the other before reaching S. Cosi- mato. From Arsoli it is practicable for carriages, and, if one has beer ordered from Tivoli, the traveller will save riding 16 m. longer, and may employ the time thus gained by visit- ing Licenza and the Sabine farm o! Horace, 6 m. on the rt. Two m. from S. Cosimato is Vicovaro, the ancient Varia, and 6 m. further Tivoli. For a description of all these places see j Handbook of Rome, Environs. 64 NAPLES — -INNS, NAPLES. GENERAL INFORMATION. Page § 1. Hotels ...... 64 § 2. Lodgings 65 § 3. Passports and Police Regu- lations 66 § 4. Trattorie, Restaurants . . 66 § 5. Cafes ....... 66 § 6. Public Conveyances, Steam- ers, Railways . . . 66 § 7. Post-Office ..... 67 § 8. Electric Telegraph . . .67 § 9. English Church . . . 67 § 10 Foreign Ministers and Con- suls 67 §11. Bankers 67 §12. Physicians 67 § 13. Surgeons and Dentists . . 68 §14. Apothecaries .... 68 In coming from Rome by the post- road from Capua, the city is entered by the suburb of San Giovanniello, and by the Strada Foria. The first, objects which attract attention are the large building of the Reale Albergo de’ Poveri, or poor-house, and the botanic garden. The Strada Foria ter- minates in the Largo delle Pigne, atthe upper end of which is the Museo Bor- bo„nico. Passing next the Largo del Mercatello, we enter the Strada di Toledo , the main artery of Naples. The Toledo and the Foria divide the city into two nearly equal portions : that on the 1., towards the sea, is the old city ; that on the rt. is com- paratively modern. Of late, to avoid the crowded thoroughfare of the To- ledo, travelling carriages are com- pelled by the police regulations to pass through the Borgo S. Antonio to the sea-side at the castle of the Carmine, and thence along the Marinella, the Largo del Castello, and the Largo di Palazzo, to the strangers’ quarter on the Sta. Lucia, the Chiatamone, and the Chiaia. As they are to drive at a foot pace, the visitor has an opportunity of observing the medley of strange sights which surprise every one who passes for the first time through the tumul- tuous confusion which prevails in all the leading thoroughfares. If the tra- veller arrives by the rly. from Capua, Page § 15. Club 63 §16. Teachers of Languages . . 68 §17. Teachers of Music ... 68 §18. Reading Rooms .... 68 §19. Booksellers 68 § 20. Stationers ..... 68 §21. Artists’ Studios . . . .69 § 22. Photographs 69 § 23. Musicsellers 69 § 24. Tradesmen, Shops ... 69 § 25. Carriages, Hackney Coaches, &c 70 § 26. Omnibuses 70 § 27. Boats . 70 §28. Baths 70 § 29. Valets de Place .... 70 § 30. Porters, Boatmen, &c. , . 70 he will proceed from the rly-stat. near the Largo del Mercato, along the latter part of the same route, to the Santa Lucia and the Chiaia. Persons arriving by sea are detained on board until the Health Office formalities are gone through, and the passports are examined, which is seldom completed in less than 2 hours. For information on landing, see § 30, p. 70. § 1 . Hotels : The Grande Bretagne, on the Chiaia, kept by Melga, the former proprietor of the Crocelle, commanding fine views of the bay and overlooking the Villa Reale, has been newly fitted up, and has an excellent table-d’hote. The Angleterre, recently opened near it, is also well conducted, and com- mands the same views. The Vittoria and Empereurs, on the Largo della Vittoria, in front of the Villa Reale, and belonging to the same proprietor, Zir, form the largest hotel establishment at Naples, and are very comfortable; but their charges have been complained of lately. Several of the window's command a fine view of the W. part of the bay. Beyond the Vittoria are the lies Britanniques and the Bellevue, both well spoken of, but in hot and dry weather both subject to the intolerable smell of a main drain which runs under their windows and opens into the sea opposite, and to the clouds of dust from the adjoining unpaved Piazza; incon- MAFLJEiS • ■ - - . . ' • . . N A PLES — LODGINGS. 65 veniences from which the western and the southern apartments of the Vittoria are not exempt. — On the Chiatamone are : The Hotel des Etrangers, kept by Ungaro, a civil and obliging landlord, who has been a courier in English fami- lies and whose wife is an Englishwoman. It has a good table-d’hote at 9 carlini (3s.), and is well situated, being close to the sea, less exposed to the smells of drains, and commanding from all the windows fine views of the bay and the hill of Posillipo. The Crocelle , kept by Conci, a large establishment command- ing from the upper rooms a fine view • over the E. part of the Bay, including Vesuvius ; but the lower floors are shut out from all view by the king’s casino and garden opposite. — On the Santa Lucia are : The H. de Borne, upon the sea, newly fitted up and good ; and the H. de Bussie, kept by Orlandi, a large establishment frequented chiefly by Germans, Russians, and French. Their situation is nearer to the centre of Naples ; but from their vicinity to the Marine Barracks and the quarter of fishermen, travellers are inconve- nienced by the noise of drums in the morning, and the cries of fishermen, &c. The prices in all these hotels are, with little difference, the same. From the end of October to the end of May their charges are : — bachelor’s room i| from 8 to 12 carlini (2s. 8 d. to 4s.) !! a-day. Apartments, consisting of a ! sitting-room and 3 bed-rooms, from 4 to 7 piastres (16s. to 28s.), according to size and position. Dinner in private apart- ments 1 piastre (4s.) ; ditto, table-d’hote, I from 8 to 10 carlini (2s. 8c?. to 3s. 4c?.). j! Breakfast, tea, coffee, or chocolate, I bread, butter, and eggs, from 4 to 5 i carlini (Is. 4c?. to Is. 8c?.). Ditto with j the addition of a hot dish of meat 6 i carlini (2s.). Dejeuner a la fourchette | from 5 to 7 carlini (Is. 8c?. to 2s. 4c?.). ; Tea in the evening 3 carlini (Is.). Service 2 carlini (8c?.). Servants’ board 8 carlini (2s. 8c?.). Second-rate inns, less expensive but ; comfortable, are : H. de Geneve , kept I by Monnier, in the Strada Medina, now I one of the best of this class ; Hotel de I Montpelier, in the Largo S. Ferdinando, j entrance from the Strado Nardones, well 1 situated for those who dislike the sea- air ; H. du Globe, in the Vico Travaccari, near Fontana Medina ; H. de France, in the Largo del Castello ; H. New York, in the Strada Piliero facing the Port ; and H. Speranzella, in the street of that name near Toledo, both frequented by commercial travellers. There are be- sides many third rate inns generally frequented by Italians and Germans, in which the charges are considerably less ; but their general management, particu- larly in regard to domestic matters and to the style of living, is much inferior. § 2. Private Lodgings . — The best are on the Riviera di Chiaia and on the Chiatamone. Those on the Santa Lucia have a fine view over the E. portion of the Bay and Vesuvius, but are less com- fortable in winter ; and being exposed to the N.E. winds, should be avoided by persons in delicate health. In the Largo del Castello, and opposite the theatre of San Carlo, there are lodgings, but of an inferior description, and seldom occupied by English. The best furnished apart- ments for large families are:— in the Palazzo Caramanico on the Chiatamone ; and in the Ischitella, the Ruggiano, the Satriano, theValle, the Bugnano kept by Corby, and the Serra Capriola palaces, on the Riviera di Chiaia. They cost from 1 50 to 300 ducats a month from November to April. In the Serravalle, on the Chiatamone, and in the Pig- natelli Strongoli, the Lefebvre, the Davalos, the Casa Parete and many other houses on the Chiaia, very good apartments can also be had from 100 to 180 ducats a month. Smaller but very comfortable ones in the Vico Carminello, Strada S. Pasquale, Strada Sta. Teresa, and Largo dell" Ascensione, all places frequented by strangers, cost from 60 to 150 ducats a month. On the Riviera di Chiaia there is a good boarding-house, well spoken of by per- sons who have lived in it, kept by Madame Schiassi, an Englishwoman. Krohn’s Maison meuble'e is also well spoken of. Lower down, on the Mergel- lina, there are several lodgings enjoying a fine view, but they are rather distant from the frequented quarter of visitors. In the immediate neighbourhood of the city some good houses can be had, such 66 NAPLES — PASSPORTS — CAFES — CONVEYANCES. as the Villa Angri, the Villa Scaletta, the Villa de Mellis, &c., on the Posi- lipo ; the Villa Tommasi, the Villa Ruffo, &c., at Capodimonte ; the Villa Maio, and the Villa Cappelli, on the Infrascata ; the Villa Ruffo, the Villa Lucia, the Belvedere, the Villa Ric- ciardi, and the Villa Tricase, on the Vomero. Their prices vary very much according to the time of the year; in summer and autumn being much higher. § 3. Passports and Police Regulations, — As soon as the traveller is settled in his hotel, he should attend to the regnla- tions specified in the printed receipt delivered to him at the barrier or Rly., or upon landing from the steamer, in exchange for his passport. The best plan will be to hand it over to the landlord of the hotel, who will see that the necessary formalities are complied with. Persons remaining longer than a week will require to ob- tain a Carta di Soggiorno, which costs 41 grains (Is. 4 \d.), and provided with which the stranger may perform all his excursions in the district around, and by tolerance even as far as Psestum. The Police Office is in the Palazzo dei Ministeri, Largo del Castello. For other details respecting passports, see Preliminary Information, p. xlv. §4. Trattorie, Restaurants. — All very inferior and uncomfortable. Mrs. Bgrne’s, an Englishwoman, Largo S. Caterina a Chiaia ; La Villa di Napoli , 48, Largo S. Ferdinando ; La Ville de Paris , 210, and Corona di Ferro, 247, Toledo. Dinner sent to private lodgings costs from 6 to 8 carlini a head. In the trattoria dinner is served either a la carte or by the dinner. By the carte the price varies according to the choice ; but a good dinner, including dessert and ordinary wine, may be had for 6 or 8 carlini (2s. and 2s. 8c?.) a head. The oysters of the Lake Fusaro, which are sold at the stalls at Santa Lucia, are among the delicacies of Naples. § 5. Cafes. — The Cafe d' Europe, in the Largo S. Ferdinando, is the best. A cup of coffee costs 5 grani ; cup of chocolate, 6 to 10 gr. ; breakfast, coffee, bread and butter, 2, with eggs 3 carlini. There is also a restaurant here, but uncomfortable from the crowd at dinner-hours, and the universal sys- tem of smoking in it. Lees . — The water of Naples is generally cooled with snow, and so necessary is this article to the people, that the shops, like those of the apothecaries and bakers, are exempted from the law which compels all others to be shut on religious festivals. The gelati (ices) of N aples are very good ; the best of them are to be had at the Cafe d’Europa, at Benvenuto’ s under the Palazzo Miranda, and at the Cafe Nocera , 6, Largo Carolino. For the Neapolitan confectionary the best shops are Gucher’s in the Palazzo Berio, Toledo, and Salzano’s, 51, Strada S. Brigida. Caution is generally recommended in the use of ices, fruit, and all the effer- vescent and acid wines. The best water is said to be that of the cloisters ofS. Paolo, Strada Tribunali; Fontana del Leone at the Mergellina ; F. Me- dina, near the Largo del Castello ; and the F. di San Pietro Martire. The greater part of the water used in drinking is brought into cisterns in the houses from the aqueduct of Cari- gnano, and is considered excellent. § 6. Public Conveyances, Steamers, Railways . — A Diligence leaves Naples for Rome every morning at 8, and performs the journey in 29 hrs. Malle- postes or Vetture 'Corriere start from the General Post Office at midnight on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays for the provinces, and on every day except Sunday for Rome. A very convenient arrangement can now be made at the office of the dili- gence, for performing the journey be- tween Naples and Rome ; the proprie- tors furnishing good carriages and post-horses, according to a fixed tariff and the number of the party. For further information, see Introduction, § 7. A weekly royal conveyance, called il Procaccio, takes parcels for most of the large towns in the pro- vinces. Steamers sail regularly from Naples for the Italian ports and Marseilles, (see Preliminary Information, § 10) ; for Ischia, calling at Procida, during the spring and summer months, on Tues- NAPLES — POST-OFFICE — BANKERS — PHYSICIANS. 67 day, Thursday, and Saturday, at returning from Ischia on the interme- diate days at 6^ a.m. ; fares 6 and 3 carlini. For Capri and the Blue Grotto several times a-week in fine weather, returning to Naples on the same even- ing ; fares for the excursion 24 carlini. Railways. — The only Railways yet open are from Naples to Caserta and Capua, with a branch to Nola and Sarno : the main line will soon be pro- longed to S. German©, and in 1860 to Ceprano, on the Roman frontier ; — to Cava with a branch to Castellammare. (see Preliminary Information, § 9.) For further particulars see Prelimi- nary Information, p. xlviii. § 7. Post Office, in the Palazzo Gra- vina, Strada MontoHveto. — The foreign mails, i.e. to France, England, Ger- many, the N. of Italy, including Rome and Tuscany, are now despatched every day by the land route ; but in conse- quence of the length of time employed (8 days to Paris and 9 to England), almost all the correspondence with these two countries now passes by the steamers sailing for Marseilles : of the latter there are 2 French mail packets and 1 Neapolitan ; they leave Naples on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 4 p.m. By this conveyance letters reach Paris on the 4th and London on the 5th day : they may be sent prepaid or not — the prepayment is 26 grani. By the several steamers between Naples and Mar- seilles, but which touch at Civita Yecchia, Leghorn, and Genoa, letters employ a day longer. The English letters by the Marseilles route arrive in Naples on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and if not prepaid cost 31 grani ; Eng- lish newspapers to 2 c. Letters for Malta are despatched every Monday by the French mail steamer, and must be prepaid 15 or 20 grani. Mails by the great post routes are despatched to every part of the kingdom every T ues- day, Thursday, and Saturday at mid- night, and need not be prepaid, and to Sicily by the contract steamers 3 times a-week. The Post-office is open from 9 to 12 A.M., and from 4 to 8 p.m. Except on letters from France and Eng- land, if in an envelope double postage is charged. Letters for England should have distinctly written Via di Mare on the envelope, if to go by Marseilles. It will always be better in receiving letters from England to have them addressed to the care of some banker or merchant, or to an hotel, each master of the latter having a box, in which all letters for persons residing in it are placed, until taken away by some known person. There is a branch post-office, where letters can be prepaid until 1 o’clock to go by the steamers, and until 6 p.m. by the inland mails, in the Largo Sta. Caterina, and in the centre of the quarter inhabited by foreigners. § 8. Electric Telegraph Office, 67, Lar- go del Castello. — A general rate of 4 carlini is charged to all parts of the kingdom, and 8 to any part of Sicily. A message to Rome 24 carlini, and to London, passing through Rome, about 36 shillings. § 9. English Church. — The Ch. of England service is performed twice on every Sunday in a large apartment at the British Consulate. The ch. is sup^ ported partly by a grant from the Treasury, and partly by the contribu- tions of travellers. The present chap- lain is the Rev. Giles Pugh, M.A. § 10. Foreign Ministers and Consuls . — British Minister, . The British Consulate is in the Palazzo Calabritto : Consul, Capt. Gallwey, R.N. ; Acting Consul, Mr. L. J. Bar- ber. The United States Legation is in the Palazzo Valle, on the Chiaia ; and the Consulate in the Vico del Baglivo, Mr. A. Hammet being the Consul. § 11. Bankers. — Baron C. M. de Rothschild, 14, Strada Sta. Maria in Portico ; Messrs. Iggulden and Son, at the entrance of the Villa Reale (they are Messrs. M’Cracken’s agents for forwarding packages to England, and are in every respect most obliging to their customers); Messrs. Cumming, Wood, and Co., 4, Vico Travaccari ; Messrs. Degas and Sons, 53, Calata Trinita Maggiore ; Messrs. Routh and Co., 1, Vico Alabardieri ; Messrs. Tur- ner and Co., 64, Strada S. Lucia ; Messrs. Meuricoffre and Sorvillo, 52, Largo del Castello. § 12. Physicians. — Dr. Roskilly, a gentleman of great experience, who has 68 NAPLES — TEACHERS — READING-ROOMS. been in practice for upwards of 40 years at Naples, Palazzo Friozzi, on the Chiaia; Dr. Bishop, of the College of Physicians of London, 7, Chiatamone ; Chev. Ramaglia, physician of the Court, 429, Toledo ; Dr. Lopiccoli, 3, Vico Campane a Toledo ; Dr. Prudente, 89, Strada Costantinopoli ; Dr. Rubino, an homoeopathic physician. (There is an Hospital for the British and American poor: see p. 121.) § 13. Surgeons and Dentists. — Signor d’Avanzo,41, Strada Sta. Chiara; Signor Manfre, 19, Vico Pellegrini ; Signor Quadri, oculist, 53, Vico del Celso ; Mr. Bullot, dentist, Strada San Carlo. § 14. Apothecaries. — Pharmacy of the British Legation, 261, Riviera di Chiaia ; Kernot, 1 4, Strada S. Carlo ; Berncastel, 7, Largo Carolino ; Ignone, 6, Strada di Chiaia. There is also an Ho- moeopathic Pharmacy on the Riviera di Chiaia. § 15. Club. — The Accademia Reale is one of the most select and aristocratic clubs in Italy; the Casino is supplied with papers, and has a billiard-room attached. The balls of the club take place in the great saloons attached to the San Carlo theatre. Strangers can only procure invitations through their Ministers, and are admitted for an unlimited period with great liberality. § 16; Teachers of Languages. — Italian. — Signor Calvello, Palazzo Calabritto ; Signor Graziosi and Signor Notarangeli, to be heard of at Dura’s Library ; Signor Paladini, 3, Vico Campane ; Signor Trilli, at Messrs. Iggulden and Son’s; Federico Guarina, 19, Vico S. Pasquali ; A. Spadocci, 32, Strada San Carlo. German t English, and French . — • Mr. Hinchcliffe, 95, Strada Nardones ; Mr. Holmes, 37, Strada Formale ; Mr. Oates, 83, Strada Speranzella ; Mr. Manning, 7, Salita Petraio ; Miss Wolf, 95, Strada di Chiaia, is a good daily governess, and gives lessons to ladies in English, German, and French ; Sig- nora Almerinda Capocci, and Signora Virginia de Simone, both good parlatrici and daily governesses. § 17. Teachers of Music. — There are a great many ; we shall only give the names of some of the best among them. (Singing.') — Signor Pappalardo, 49, Largo S. Ferdinando ; Ferrarese, 13, Vico S. Teresella degli Spagnoli ; Busti, 1 1, Strada Pignasecca ; Mugnone, Sa- lita Tarsia, Palazzo del Comune ; Pa- turzo, 22, Vico S. Giuseppe ; Holmes, 34, Strada di Chiaia; Biscardi, 171, Strada di Chiaia ; Consalvo,27, S. Maria in Portico. (Piano.) — Signor Coop, 57, Salita S. Mattia; Cerimele, 8, Stra- da S. Anna di Palazzo ; Catalano, 37, Strada Formale ; Russo, 26, Strada Magnocavallo ; Albanese, 24, Trinith degli Spagnuoli. ( Violin.) — Signor Pin- to, Ospizio de’ Ciechi a Chiaia ; Gravig- lie, at Girard’s. (Violoncello.) — Signor Ciaurelli, 46, Strada Concordia. (Harp.) — Signor Albano, 17, Vico de’ Greci. Mad. Marrao, Vico Lucia. § 1 8. Reading Rooms. — Mad. Doranfs British Library and Reading-room, 267, Riviera di Chiaia, deserves encourage- ment. The reading-room is supplied with the leading London papers, Gali- gnani, the Quarterly, Edinburgh, and other Reviews, the principal Monthly Magazines, Army and Navy Lists, and the ordinary books of reference. Sub- scription for the library and reading- room, entitling the subscriber to take home one work at a time, 2 piastres a month ; 5^ for 3 months. For the library alone, 1^ piastre a month ; 4 p. for 3 months. For the reading-room alone, l£ p. a month ; 3 p. for 3 months. Subscribers may have the newspapers at their own lodgings by paying a small sum extra. Detken’ s circulating library of foreign books, Largo di Palazzo. Dufresne’s Cabinet de Lecture, well supplied with modern French works, 61, Strada Medina. Tempest ini’s Gabinetto letterario, 56,* Strada S. Brigida ; Per 'o, 19, Strada S. Giacomo. § 19. Booksellers. — Detken (a book- binder also), Largo di Palazzo, has the best assortment of English and foreign books, maps, Handbooks, and Guide- books of Naples and the kingdom — English spoken; Nobile, 166, Toledo; Rondinella, 233, Toledo ; (old books) Montuori, 48, Strada S. Anna de’ Lom- bardi ; and Vittorio, 13, Strada S. Biagio de’ Librai. § 20. Stationers. — Detken, Largo di Palazzo ; Glass, 45, Largo S. Ferdi- nando; Girard, 184, Toledo ; Caputo, NAPLES ARTISTS SHOPS. 69 Strada di Chiaia ; Tipaldi, 57, Strada Montelivoto (sells English water-colours and drawing materials). §21. Artists Studios ( Sculptors ). — Angelini, in the Albergo de Poveri; Persico, and Cali, in the Largo delle Pigne, under the Museum ; Solari, Strada Fonseca. (. Painters .) — Manci- nelli, 31, Vico S. Spirito ; Smargiassi, 13, Strada Bisignano ; Guerra, in the Museum; Carelli (Gonsalvo), 66, Carelli (Gabriele and Achille), 57, Riviera di Chiaia — a family of artists ; Gonsalvo and Gabriele are excellent drawing masters in crayon and water- colours, who paint views in oil and water - colours of the costumes and scenery round Naples ; Verloet, Largo Ascensione a Chiaia ; Morelli, Palazzo Celentano a Pontenuovo ; Di Napoli, Vico S. Aniello ; Gigante (Giacinto), Salita della Salute; Vianelli, Vico del Dattero a Mergellina; Duel ere, S. Teresa a Chiaia. § 22. Photographs may be procured at Detken’s ; or at Grillet’s, 28, Santa Lucia, and at Bourdin’s in the Villa Reale : the two latter are French artists, who have made a large series of views not only of the environs of Naples, but throughout the provinces of the kingdom. § 23. Music Sellers. — Girard, 49, Lar- go S. Ferdinando; Clausetti, 18, Strada S. Carlo. Pianos may be hired of Helzel, 138, Largo Sta. Caterina a Chiaia. § 24. Tradesmen and Shops. — Travel- lers ought to bear in mind that in Naples bargaining is the rule, and beating down a necessity; if they do not, they may ex pectlo be imposed upon. English Ware- house. — Stanford’s, next door to Messrs. Iggulden’s Bank. English Saddlers.— Fish, 31, Strada Vittoria; Lewis, 5, Largo Cappella. Modes, Silk Warehouses, and Dress-makers. — Cardon, 209, Strada di Chiaia, expensive; Giroux, 2 16, ditto; Lacroix, 205, ditto ; Pszenny-Fass, Pa- lazzo Calabritto ; Valentino, 55, Vico Lungo del Celso ; Philippe, 6, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaia ; and Mad. Miccio, 3, Vico Campane. Sicilian Silk from Catania, a cheap article. — Tragala and Auteri. 288. Toledo. Tailors. — Lennon, 2, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaia; Mac- kenzie, 50, Largo C ppella, under Palazzo Partanna; Tieck, 15, Vico! Travaccari; Schultz, 19, Largo S. Caterina a Chiaia; Tesorone, 185, Plassnel, 205, and De Vallier, 256, Toledo. Shoemakers. — Burrington, English bootmaker, Palazzo Par- tanna ; for ladies — Toro, 61, and De Notaris, 189, Strada di Chiaia; Finoia, Palazzo Miranda, Strada S. Or- sola a Chiaia. Hairdresser . — Zempt. 6, Strada Sta. Caterina a Chiaia, Gloves. — Cremonesi, 50, Largo S. ' Fer- dinando ; Bossi, 179, Toledo; Sangio- vanni, 76, Strada di Chiaia; Montagna, 294, Toledo ; Budillon, 19, Strada S. Carlo, and 198, Strada di Chiaia ; Prattico, 23, Strada S. Giacomo. The gloves of Naples are the best in Italy ; a good pair costs from 3 to 5 carlini (Is. to Is. 8c?.). Naples Soap . — At Zempt’s perfumery shop, 6, Strada di Sta. Caterina ; Bellet and Co., successors of Arene, 1 80, Toledo ; and Ridolfi, Largo del Vasto ; the present price is 3 to 5 carlini (Is. to Is. 8 d.) a pound for the best quality. Coral, Lava, and Tortoise- shell Works. — Bolten, Palazzo Partanna ; Balzano, 10, Largo Vittoria; Palchetti, 1, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaia; Taglia- ferri, 43, Sta. Caterina a Chiaia ; La- briola, 209, Riviera di Chiaia, etc. The pretended lava ornaments are generally made of varieties of ordinary limestone, found in fragments amongst the ancient deposits at the foot of Vesuvius in the Fosso Grande. Watch- makers.— Ingold and Reymond, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaia. Jeweller . — Vi- gliarolo, 150, Strada di Chiaia. Riding- horses are to be hired at the Palazzo Partanna; the charge is 2 ducats and often 2 piastres a day, by the month 30 piastres. English and Foreign Snuffs and Cigars. — 57, Largo di Palazzo. Views of Naples. — Gatti and Dura, 18, Strada del Gigante. The views in guache, a style so peculiar to Naples, may be had in great variety here ; those of La Pera are the best. Imitation Etruscan Fuses and Terracottas. — DelVecchio, 4, Gius- tiniani, 10 to 16, and Colonnese, 21, Strada Marinella; Mollica, Strada Sta. Lucia. Giustiniani, one of the best manufacturers, has also a shop in the Strada S. Lucia. Antiquities, Etruscan Vases , old China , etc . — Barone, Palazzo della Rossa, nearly opposite the ch. of Sta. Chiara, in the Strada Trinith, Mag- giore. De Crescenzo. 87 and 38, S. 70 NAPLES— CARRIAGES — VALETS — PORTERS. Lucia; Cali, 16, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaia. Old Lace, Mad. Cali, 159, Riviera di Chiaia. Baker. — A French baker, Largo S. Ferdinando, makes excellent fancy and other breads. Parasols, Fans. — Martino, 211, Riviera di Chiaia. Fancy Embroidery, German Wools , etc., — Au Gagne Petit, 21, Strada San Carlo. §25. Carriages, hackney coaches, SfC. — The charge for job carriages for the city and immediate vicinity is 3 ducats a day, with a buonamano of 4 to 6 carlini to the driver;, for half a day the charge is 18 carlini. In winter, when the carriage is hired by the month, the common charge is from 70 to 80 piastres per month, stipulating for an open carriage by day and a close one by night ;. and that the engagement is for a calendar month, otherwise a dispute may arise about the 31st day. The buonamano per month is 5 piastres. Hackney carriages are hired either by the course or by the hour. By the hour the tariff is as follows : — carriage with 2 horses, 1st hour, 4 carl. ;. every sub- sequent hour, 30 grani cabriolets, 1st hour, 20 grani; every subsequent hour, 1 5 gr. ; cittadine, 1 st hour, 30 gr. ; every subsequent hour, 20 gr. If the last hour be only commenced, it is charged as a whole one. By the course, a carriage with 2 horses, 20 gr. ;. cabriolets, 1 2 gr. ;. cittadine, 1 5 gr. The course does not exceed half an hour, and must be with- in the limits of the city. When car- riages are taken for 5 or 6 hours a bar- gain should be made, paying 2 carl, for every hour, or at most 3 for the first and 2 each hour afterwards. The fol- lowing is the tariff for the different conveyances to the environs : a car- riage with 3 horses, for the whole day, 5 ducats ; with 2 horses, for the whole day, 4 due. ; with a buonamano of 5 carlini ; a cabriolet with 1 horse, the whole day, 1 ducat, 60 gr. § 26. Omnibuses. — 1 . The line running from the Villa Reale to the Albergo de’ Poveri, passing through the Chiaia, the Toledo, and by the Museum. — 2. The line of the Tribunali : from the Largo S. Ferdinando to the Larghetto S. Onofrio alia Vicaria, passing through the Toledo. — 3. The Railway line : from the Largo del Castello to the railway. — Fares, 5 grani. § 27. Boats . — A boat with 4 oars costs per day 3 piastres with 2 oars, from Naples to Portiei, 1 due. ; a seat in the market boats which sail daily for Sorrento, Castellammare, Capri, Torre del Greco, or Ischia, costs 20 grani. § 28. Baths . — There is a large esta- blishment in the new street called the Strada della Pace, leading from the Largo di S. Gaterina to the Chiata- mone. §, 29. Valets-de-place . — Their fee is from 8 to 12 carlini a day ; but here, as at Rome, it will be as well to dis- pense with their services when making purchases. Antonio di Antonio, who may be heard of at the Hotel des Etrangers, is a good cicerone for the city and its environs, and an excellent travelling-servant for persons wishing to> proceed to Sicily and through the provinces, where he has travelled with several of our countrymen, by whom he is recommended highly for his intelli- gence, honesty, and activity ; he speaks both French and English. § 30. Porters, Facchini, Boatmen, fic. — From no class of his Neapolitan Majesty’s subjects is the traveller on his arrival at Naples doomed to ex- perience greater annoyance. If he arrives by vetturino, he will be es- corted to his hotel by a number of them, whose demand for unloading the luggage is always exorbitant, and regu- lated by no fixed tariff ; if by sea or by diligence, there is a kind of under- standing that 3 carlini is a sufficient remuneration for accompanying him with his luggage to his hotel. As to boatmen, the charge is 3 carl, per per- son for landing him from the steamer ; as to putting him on board, 2 carl, will be ample remuneration. It may not be here unnecessary to repeat to travellers the caution given in the Handbook of Rome — not to listen to the recommendation by persons sta- tioned at the gates, or going on board the steamers on their arrival, as re- gards hotels. Strangers arriving, espe- cially by sea, will do well to fix on their hotels, irrespective of such recommen- dation ; and to call for the commis- sionaire of that they intend to go to, and who will be found in a boat lying off the steamer: by doing this they will avoid annoyance and extortion, both on NAfLhS — GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. getting ashore and in passing their luggage through the Custom-house. GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. The city of Naples, situated in 40° 52' N. lat., and 14 3 15'E. long., dis- putes with Constantinople the claim of occupying the most beautiful site in Europe. It is built on the N. shore of the Bay, which is upwards of 35 Eng- lish m. in circuit, from the Capo della Campanella on the S.E., to the Capo di Miseno on the N.W. ; and more than 52 m. in circuit, if we include the is- lands of Capri and Ischia, from the Punta Carena, the S. point of Capri, to the Punta dell’ Imperatore, the W. point of Ischia. The country which lies along the N.E. shores of this Bay is an extensive flat, continuous with the great plain of the Campania. The river Sebeto, Sebetus, flows through it. In ancient times it was a marsh ; it is now under cultiva- tion principally as market gardens, from which the capital derives its very abundant supply of vegetables. Be- tween Naples and the chain of the Apennines, Vesuvius rises insulated in the plain, its lower slopes studded with densely-peopled villages. Along the coast, between Vesuvius and the sea, are the towns of Portici, Resina, Torre del Greco, Torre dell’ Annunziata, and the sites of Herculaneum and Pompeii. Beyond the Sarno, at the extremity of the plain, and at the point where the coast suddenly bends to the W., is the town of Castellammare, near the site of Stabice, at the foot of the Monte Sant’ Angelo, the highest point of that moun- tain range which forms the S.E. boundary of the Bay, an offshoot from the main chain of the Apennines. Be- tween Castellammare and the Capo della Campanella are the towns of Vico, Sor- rento, and Massa. About 4 m.. from the extremity of the Promontory lies Capri, which is about 17 m. from Naples. The coast to the W. of Naples, as far as the Promontory of Misenum, is more broken and irregular. The Promon- tory of Posilipo separates the Bay of ( Naples from that of Pozzuoli, and con- ceals Misenum. Following the coast is the island of Nisita. Further on, and more inland on the rt., are the extinct ,| craters of the Solfatara, of the Lake of I 71 Agnano, and of Astroni. Beyond these, on a tongue of land, stands Pozzuoli ; passing which is the Monte Nuovo, and farther still the Lake of Avernus, the Lucrine Lake, the ruins of Cumae, the Lake of Fusaro, Baiae, the Elysian Fields, the Mare Morto, and the port and promontory of Misenum. Beyond Misenum are the islands of Procida and Ischia. The Bay between Ischia and Capri is 14 m. wide, its depth from W. to E. is about 15 m. Naples itself is built at the base and on the slopes of a range of hills which have the general form of an amphi- theatre. This range is divided into two natural crescents by a transverse ridge bearing in its different portions the names of Capodimonte, St. Elmo, and Pizzofalcone, and terminating on the S. in the small promontory on which stands the Caste! dell’ Ovo. The crescent which lies to the E. of this ridge includes the largest and most ancient portion of the city, extending from the flanks of Capodimonte an<§ St. Elmo to the Sebeto, and including within its circuit the principal edifices and public establishments. It is inter- sected from N. to S. by a long street, of which the lower portion is the Toledo ; and is perhaps more densely peopled than any town of the same extent in Eu- rope. The crescent on the W. of St. Elmo is the modern city, known as the Chiaia. It is connected with the E. por- tion by the streets which occupy the de- pression between St. Elmo and Pizzofal- cone, and by a broad road which extends along the shore at the foot of Pizzofal- cone, to the Villa Reale and the Mer- ginella on the W. This street or quay bears in its various parts the names of Gigante, Santa Lucia, Chiata- mone, and Vittoria. The Chiaia forms a long and somewhat narrow strip of streets and squares occupying the space between the sea and the lower hills of the Vomero. A broad street, called the Biviera di Chiaia , running parallel to the shore, bordered on the N. by hand- some houses, principally where the foreign visitors reside, and on the S. by the public gardens called the Villa Reale, passes along its whole length. At the extremity of the Chiaia are the quarters of the Piedigrotta and the Mergellina. From the former the 72 NAPLES — HISTORICAL TOPOGRaFxi i . Grotta di Posilipo leads to Pozzuoli. From the Mergellina a fine road winds over the S. face of the promontory to the same town. The length of Naples from the Gra- nili barracks to the Mergellina is 4 m. ; the breadth from the Capodimonte to the Castel dell’ Ovo is 2g m. There are more than 1300 streets, in which the houses are regularly num- bered. The principal streets are called Strode ; the cross streets, Vichi ; the smaller streets, Vicoletti ; the lanes, Strettole; the hilly streets leading from the new to the old town, Calate ; those leading to the suburbs, Salite; those which are so steep as to re- quire steps, Gradoni ; those which have many branches, Rampe. Very few of the streets bear the name of Via, but here and there the term Rua, a record of the Angevine dynasty, is met with. The streets were not lighted until 1806, when oil lamps were first em- ployed. In 1840 these were super- seded by gas in the large thorough- fares. The Largo delle Pigne, the Riviera di Chiaia, and the Toledo are the only streets which have a footway. HISTORICAL, TOPOGRAPHY. Some of the local antiquaries assign a Phoenician origin to Naples, and re- gard the story of Parthenope, the Syren, as the poetic tradition of the event. The ancient writers, however, agree in representing it as a Greek settle- ment, though the circumstances of its foundation are obscurely narrated. It seems that a colony of the neighbour- ing Cumae first settled on the spot, and gave the city which they founded the name of Parthenope ; and that subse- quently they were joined by a colony of Athenians and Chalcidians, with some settlers from Pithecusce (Ischia), who built for themselves a distinct city under the name of Neapolis, or the new city ; upon which Parthenope assumed the name of Palcepolis, or the old city. 1. During the Greek period. — The tes- timony of Livy leaves no doubt that Palcepolis and Neapolis, though distinct in name, were identical in language, in customs, and in government. But all attempts of the local antiquaries to de- fine with accuracy their extent and situation, in spite of the learning ex- pended upon the task, have failed. It is however supposed that a line drawn from the Porto Piccolo to the Porta Alba, and thence in a semicircle through the Largo delle Pigne and the Porta S. Gennaro, to the Castel del Carmine, will include the site both of Palcepolis and Neapolis. Excavations made within this circuit have brought to light Greek substructions, fragments of Greek sculpture, and Greek coins. Of this space, Palcepolis is supposed to have occupied the flat coast from the present Porto Piccolo to the Castel del Carmine, and to the Porta Nolana inland ; while Neapolis occupied the higher ground immediately behind it. At a very early period Palcepolis and Neapolis became united as a Republic. They allied themselves to Rome about b.c. 400, and at a later period their walls were so strong as to offer resistance to Pyrrhus, Hannibal, and Spartacus. When the Romans became masters of the world they looked with favour on a Republic which had retained its inde- pendence without joining in the wars of other States, which had always afforded a generous asylum to the exiles of Rome, and which possessed an irre- sistible fascination in the luxuries of its climate and its habits, and in the beauty of its scenery. In the plenitude of the imperial power and of the intel- lectual greatness of Rome, her em- perors, her statesmen, her historians, and her poets took up their residence on the shores of Naples. 2. Under the Romans. — During the Civil Wars a body of partisans of Sylla, having entered the city by treachery, massacred most of its inhab. b.c. 82 . Augustus is said to have united the two Greek cities, and to have restored their walls and towers. Like Virgil, and other illustrious men of his reign, Augustus resided frequently at Naples, and most of his successors followed his example. Tiberius, during his stay, made the island of Capri infamous by his excesses ; Claudius assumed the Greek costume and became an officer of the Republic ; Nero acted on its theatre ; Titus assumed the office of its Archon ; and Hadrian became its Demarch. 3. Under the Goths. — The walls of Naples, which were complete at the NAPLES — HISTORICAL TOPOGRAPHY. 73 conquest of Italy by Odoacer in 476, continued perfect down to the invasion of the Goths under Theodoric, whose successors appear to have exercised a gentle sway at Naples, and to have so strengthened its walls as to make it one of the most powerful of the fortified cities of Italy. In 536 it defied the skill and resources of Belisarius, who, however, turned aside the aqueduct and marched his troops into the city through its channel. Besides being laid under subjection to the Eastern Emperors, Naples was sacked and almost depopulated by the conquerors. In 543 the walls resisted the attack of Totila, who, after a protracted siege, reduced the city by famine, and levelled its fortifications to the ground. 4. Under the Eastern Emperors . — When the Gothic kingdom had been subdued by Narses, he seized Naples, and made it subject to the Exarchs of Bavenna. It was then governed nomi- nally by dukes appointed by the em- perors, but was allowed to retain its own laws, magistracy, and municipal institutions. Under these dukes, the walls were rebuilt to resist the invasion of the Longobards, who besieged the city without success in 581. The impe- rial authority gradually became so weak I that it was unable to prevent the citi- zens from assuming the right of elect- ing their own governor by the title of Console or Duca. 5. Under the Republic and the Lom- bards .- — For nearly 400 years after she threw off the yoke of the Eastern Em- il pire Naples retained its independence, ij It was besieged twice by the Longobard I dukes of Benevento ; in 81 5 by Grimo- jj aldo II., who was bought off by the I duke Teotisto, a Greek, for 8000 golden solidi ; and in 821 by Sicon IV., who 1 was aided by Theodore, the former | duke, who had been driven into exile. : j After a protracted siege the Longobards i withdrew, but they compelled Naples to become tributary to the Duchy of I Benevento. In 1027 Pandolfo IV., prince of Capua, besieged and took | Naples from Duke Sergio, on account [I of the hospitality the latter had af- [■ forded to Pandolfo Count of Teano. |; But in 1030 Sergio recovered the city j! with the aid of the Greeks and of those IS. Italy.-] Norman adventurers who had already begun to make their valour felt in Southern Italy. In reward for the services received, Sergio gave the Nor- mans some land, between Capua and Naples, upon which they built Aversa,. and of which he conferred on their leader, Rainulfo, the title of Count. 6. Under the Normans . — The Normans made no attempt to possess themselves of Naples till 1 130, when Roger besieged it, and after a protracted siege com- pelled it to surrender. He had the cir- cuit of the walls measured, and found that it was a little more than 2 m. Roger was the same year proclaimed King of Naples and Sicily. William I. (the Bad), his son, extended the circuit of the walls, built Castel Capuano and the Castel dell’ Ovo. The walls appear to have been completed by his successors William II. and Tancred, in whose reign the city was unsuccessfully besieged by Henry VI., who claimed the kingdom in right of his wife Con- stance, the only daughter of Roger. 7. Under the Suabians . — Frederick II. founded the University of Naples, and by making the city his residence be- came also the founder of its greatness and prosperity. In 1253, after a siege of ten months by Conrad, his son, Naples was compelled by famine to surrender at discretion. Conrad demo- lished the walls, which were soon after restored and enlarged by Innocent IV. 8. Under the Angevine dynasty. — Chas. I. made greater efforts than any of his predecessors to give strength and im- portance to Naples. He removed the seat of government from Palermo to Naples, extended the city on the E. side as far as the Piazza del Mercato, filled up the marshy tract between the old walls and the sea, and built in 1 283 the Castel Nuovo. He also repaired its walls, paved the streets, destroyed the ancient palace of the Neapolitan Re- public, began the restoration of the cathedral, and built several churches and monasteries. His son Charles II. built the Molo Grande and the castle of St. Elmo, enlarged the city walls, and strengthened the fortifications on the sea-side. Naples was besieged and captured in 1387 by Louis II. of Anjou ; it was again besieged in 1420 by Louis E 74 NAPLES — HISTORICAL TOPOGRAPHY. > III. of the same family, who was driven i off by Alfonso of Aragon, and was be- sieged and captured by the same Alfonso on his own account in 1423. In 1425 the city walls were enlarged towards the sea by Joanna II. Alfonso again besieged the city, though without effect, in 1438, in 1440, and in 1441; but in 1442, after a protracted siege, he en- tered it through the canal of an aqueduct, called the Pozzo di S. Sofia , which was pointed out to him by two deserters, and thus put an end to the Angevine dynasty. 9. Under the Aragonese dynasty .■ — Fer- dinand I. extended the city walls toward the E. from the Carmine to S. Giovanni a Carbonara, and employed Giuliano da Majano to fortify them. He opened new gates, some of which are still standing, at least in name, as are por- tions of the walls. He also restored the cathedral, erected a lighthouse on the Molo, and introduced the art of printing and the manufacture of silk. 10. Under the Spaniards. — On the accession of Ferdinand the Catholic, Pietro Navarro, the engineer, was em- ployed by Gonsalvo da Cordova to mine the Castel dell’ Ovo. In 1518 the city was besieged by Lautrec, and in 1535 it received its greatest and last enlarge- ment from the viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo. He extended the fortifications from S. Giovanni a Carbonara to the hill of St. Elmo, including the hill of Pizzofalcone, passing along the site of the present Piazza delle Pigne, the Fosse del Grano, and the Mercatello, and rejoining the Angevine walls at S. Sebastiano. These walls were built of massive blocks of tufa, and were fur- nished with bastions and curtains. Don Pedro also filled up the fosse of the Angevine fortifications on the W. side, and opened the Strada di Toledo on its site. He constructed the main drain in the Piazza Pignasecca, form- ing the entrance to the system of sewers whieh he carried to the sea. He also built the royal palace, which was occupied by Charles V. when he landed here on his return from his African expedition, and was known as the Palazzo Yecchio till 1842, when it was pulled down. In 1 540 he converted the old Castel Capuano into the Palace of the Tribunals and the General Re- cord Office of the kingdom. Of the other viceroys it will suffice to mention that in 1558 the Duke of Alva im- proved the works of the Mole; in 1577 the Marques de Mondejar built the Arsenal; in 1586 the Duke d’Ossuna laid the foundation of the present Museo Borbonico as the viceregal sta- bles; in 1596 the Count d’Olivares commenced the Riviera di Chiaia ; in 1600 the Count de Lemos added a new wing to the Palazzo Reale for the reception of Philip III. of Spain; in 1607 the Count de Benevente opened the street of Poggio Reale; in 1615 the Count de Lemos converted the viceregal stables of the Duke d’Ossuna into a university ; in 1634 the Count de Monterey built the viaduct of Pizzofal- cone over the Strada di Chiaia ; in 1640 the Duke de Medina gave his name to the Porta Medina; in 1649 the Count d’Onate erected the first theatre built in Naples, called the Teatro di S. Bartolommeo, which was pulled down when Carlo III. built that of San Carlo ; in 1668 Don Pedro Antonio of Aragon built the Dock which adjoins the Arsenal; and in 1695 the Duke de Medina Celi, the last of the Spanish viceroys, completed the Chiaia. If the viceroys, as a body, did little for the public works at Naples, we cannot say as much of the zeal with which they removed many of her works of art. As one example out of many, we may mention that the Mar- ques de Villafranca, on resigning the viceroyalty, which he held only for two months, in 1671, carried back with him to Spain the statues of the four rivers from the fountain on the Mole, the statue of Venus from the fountain of the Castel Nuovo, and the statues and sculptures by Giovanni da Nola from the Fontana Medina. 11. Under the House of Austria. — The | emperors of Austria governed the king- [ dom by their viceroys, who were mostly j Germans. In the brief space of twenty- j seven years there were not less than 1 3 viceroys, 4 of whom held office for I only half a year each. Amidst such changes in the executive, the public works were wholly disregarded. 1 2 . Under the Spanish Bourbons. — The NAPLES — POPULATION — CLIMATE. 75 conquest of Naples by Don Carlos, the younger son of Philip IV., and his accession to the crown by the title of Charles III., were important events in the history of modern Naples, which owes to him her present development in wealth, in population, and in extent. He enlarged the Palazzo Eeale, com- pleted the harbour of the Molo Grande, constructed the street of the Marina, built the theatre of San Carlo, the Albergo de’ Poveri, and the palace of Capodimonte, etc., and fortified the shores of the bay. His son, Ferdinand I., and Joseph and Murat during the French occupation, effected also great improvements; the Strada di S. Carlo all’ Arena, the Strada del Campo, the Mergellina, the roads of Posilipo and Capodimonte, the promenade of the Chiaia, and the piazza of the Palazzo Reale were constructed; the Botanic Garden, the Museum, the Academy, and other public institutions were esta- blished. During the short reign of Francis I. the new harbour for ships of war was begun ; and the reign of Ferdinand II. has already seen the completion of the Ch. of S. Francesco di Paola, the extension of the Chiaia, and other works of permanent utility and ornament. POPULATION. The population of Naples for some years past has been steadily increasing. In 1830 it was 358,550 ; in 1845 it was 400,813. In 1850 there had been 3051 marriages; 14,991 births, viz. 7606 males and 7385 females, among whom 1977 were foundlings and 124 illegiti- mate children; and 15,015 deaths, viz. 8133 males and 6882 females, a num- ber above the average mortality, which, calculated for ten years, shows an ex- cess of births of nearly 1100 per annum. On the 1st January 1851 the population was 416,475; viz. 203,483 males and 212, 992 females ; and on the 1st Janu- ary, 1854, it had increased to 417,824. CLIMATE. The following notice on the climate of Naples has been kindly communi- cated by an eminent English physician, who practised there for many years. It will prove acceptable to visitors, and assist them in the selection of a residence. “ The climate of Naples may be called tonic and bracing, in comparison with that of Rome, which is soft and relaxing ; and, if we were to compare it with any place in England, it most nearly resembles that of Brighton ; although, of course, the temperature is much higher in the former than in the latter place. Like Brighton, the au- tumns are delightful, and the spring months, February and March, often very trying to delicate lungs, from the cold dry winds which then prevail.” “ Naples, however, is neither sub- ject to the same degree of cold in winter nor the same heat in summer as either Rome or Florence; during the two hottest months of the year (July and August) the heat of the sun is so tempered by the sea and land breezes, that the thermometer seldom rises to 84° of Fahrenheit and is often be- low 80°, while in winter it seldom falls below 40°. Snow seldom falls in the town of Naples, or, if it does, it melts immediately ; but it often lies on the surrounding Apennines for weeks or months, and it is when the wind blows from these snow-capped mountains that the air is coldest and most trying to delicate constitutions. These winds are most prevalent in the months of Feb. and March, and these are the months of the year when the mortality is greatest; while, on the other hand, those of June, July, and August, when the heat is the highest, are perhaps the most free from illness, since the habits of the inhabitants lead them to work early in the morning and late at night, and to rest during the heat of the day ; so that they are seldom ex- posed to the excessive heat of the sun. The time when the heat is most felt is during the prevalence of the scirocco winds, for then the sea and land breezes are for a time suspended ; but these winds seldom last for more than three days, and, though enervating for the time, they leave behind no bad effects.” “ The greatest quantity of rain falls during the first two or three weeks of September; during the months of June, July, and August there is little or 76 NAPLES— CLIMATE — ANTIQUITIES. none, and by the end of the last of these months the grass is nearly burned up by the heat ; but as soon as the rains fall everything revives, and from the end of September till the middle or end of December the climate is that of an English summer; and this is the season when the superiority of the Neapolitan climate over that of Rome is the greatest. In Feb. and March, on the other hand, the weather is usually very variable, and N. or N.E. winds prevail ; circumstances which render these two months very trying to deli- cate lungs ; and it is generally under- stood that the climate of Rome, which is softer and less variable, is then pre- ferable in such cases.” “ There is a prevalent opinion in Rome that the sulphureous vapour from Vesuvius is injurious to consumptive patients who reside at Naples: this, however, is quite at variance with the fact that the Neapolitan physicians send their patients from Naples to Santo Iorio, a place situated at the bottom of the mountain, and find that they do better there than in the city. As to the localities in Naples most suitable to invalids, travellers have little choice; for the only situation where houses fit for foreigners to in- habit can be found are in the quarter of the Chiaia and Sta. Lucia. Of these, the best are to be found from the Crocelle on the E., along the Chiatamone and Riviera di Chiaia, to where the road of the Mergellina and Piedigrotta separate on the W. These houses have a southern aspect, and are protected by the Vomero and Pizzo Falcone from the N. and N.E. winds, and when the lungs are sound no situation can be more agreeable ; but where pulmonary affections exist, the streets which are situated behind the Riviera di Chiaia, and consequently farther removed from the influence of the sea, are considered preferable, al- though they are generally of an in- ferior description, as to accommoda- tion, to those in the Riviera di Chiaia. The houses best suited to such invalids are in the Vico Carminiello, the Stra- da San Pasquale, the Strada Santa Teresa, and Chiaia. Those on the quay of Santa Lucia are much exposed to the N.E. and easterly winds, and therefore very unsuitable to invalids, ex- ; cept during the autumn and late in the 1 spring, when they are very agreeable and cheerful, from their facing Vesu- vius, and overlooking the city and the eastern portion of the bay. What has been said of Santa Lucia is equally applicable to the few houses which are [ to be had in the Mergellina; they are cold in winter, but very agreeable in the autumn or early in summer. Houses built upon the tufa rock are generally considered to be damper and less healthy than those which are at a distance from it; but this, if true, only applies to the rooms in the rear, which are generally occupied by ser- vants or used as kitchens ; and a long experience would scarcely bear us out in saying that these occupants are less healthy than their more comfortably located masters.” ANTIQUITIES. There are few remains in the imme diate vicinity of Naples, though the country around is covered with ruins of temples, theatres, and villas, and her museum is rich in monuments of Greek and Roman art. The fragments of the Temple of Cas- tor and Pollux are preserved in the fa 9 ade of the Ch. of San Paolo, which occupies its site (see p. 115). They consist of two columns, a portion of ; an architrave, and two torsi. Of the other temples scarcely any- thing has survived except the names. The sites of the Temples of Neptune and of Apollo are occupied by the cathedral, the old basilica of Santa Restituta being supposed to stand on the foun- j dations of the temple of Apollo ; the site of the Temple of Ceres is occupied by the Ch. of S. Gregorio Armeno ; that of the Temple of Mercury by the Ch. of SS. Apostoli ; that of the Temple \ of Vesta by the little Ch. of S. Maria Rotonda in the Casacalenda Palace ; :j and that of the Temple of Diana by the ! Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore. The Catacombs, or rather those por- tions of them which are called Le Cata - combe di San Gennaro, are situated on the flanks of the hill of Capodimonte. I The only entrance now open is that at j NAPLES — ANTIQUITIES. the Ch. of S. Gennaro de’ Poveri. The Ch. of S. Gennaro was erected in the 8th centy. to mark the site of the small chapel in which the body of S. Janu- arius was deposited by S. Severus in the time of Constantine. The altar, the episcopal chair cut in the tufa, and some paintings on the walls are still preserved in it. The catacombs are excavated in the volcanic tufa in the face of the hill. They form a long series of corridors and chambers, ar- ranged in three stories communicating with each other by flights of steps. In a part which was closed at the beginning of the present centy. is a ch. with three arches, supported by columns cut out of the tufa rock, with an altar, episcopal seat, and baptistery of stone ; in another part is a fountain which was doubtless used for sacred purposes. Along the walls of the corridors and chambers are excavated numerous loculi , or niches, in which may still be seen perfect ske- letons, and rude delineations of the olive-branch, the dove, the fish, and other symbols of the early Christians, with here and there a Greek inscrip- tion. These niches were formerly closed with slabs of marble, many fragments of which, having inscrip- tions, form the pavement of the Ch. of S. Gennaro. The antiquaries of Naples have ex- pended a great amount of learning and research in discussions on the origin of these catacombs. Some have identified them with the gloomy abodes of the Cimmerians of Homer ; others have considered them th zArenaria or quarries from which the ancients extracted the tufa stone for building purposes ; while others have supposed that they were excavated by the early Christians as a place of refuge from persecution and of repose after death. Passages and cham- bers so extensive and intricate could not have been the work of men who sought concealment for their religious worship ; and it is to the Greek colo- nists that the construction of these catacombs is now generally ascribed. There is no doubt, however, that both the Romans and the early Christians subsequently appropriated them to their own use, — the latter for the purposes of worship as well as of sepulture. S. Januarius, S. Gaudiosus, S. Agrippinas, and other Martyrs, subsequently canon- ised, were interred in them. Hence the catacombs in the middle ages were re- garded with peculiar sanctity, and the clergy of the city had to visit them at least once a year. They be- came the burial-place of the victims of the plague of 1656; and the Abate Romanelli, on exploring them in 1814, found several bodies of the plague victims still entire, and clothed in the dresses they had worn in life. The in- scriptions discovered in them relate ex- clusively to Christians, not one having been found which belongs to Pagan times. The extent of the catacombs is said to be very great. The Ponti Rossi is the modern name given to the remains of the Julian aqueduct, Aqua Julia, about 50 m. long, constructed by Augustus to supply the Roman fleets at Misenum with water. It commenced at Serino, in the Princi- pato Ultra, and was fed by the waters of the Sabbato. The remains now visible lie in a deep cutting on the slope of the hill of Capodimonte, and are built of solid masses of tufa, lined with red bricks, from which the epithet Rossi is derived. Before reaching this valley the aqueduct separated into two branches. One of these proceeded into the heart of the city, and furnished it with its principal supply of water down to the time of Belisarius, who broke down this branch, and marched his troops through the channel. The other branch crossed the Vomero, where its remains may still be seen At that point it again divided, one branch proceeding to the Roman villas on the point of Posilipo, the other by Monte Olibano to Baiee and Misenum, where it ter- minated in the Piscina Mirabiiis. The ruins of the Ponti Rossi were repaired in 1843, when care was taken to pre- serve their antique character. The Anticaglia, in the street of the same name, are the two arches and other remains of an ancient theatre. From the fragments which may still be traced in some cellars in the neigh- bourhood it must have been of con- siderable size. 78 NAPLES— GATES — PORTS. On the outer wall of the monastery of Sta. Maria Egiziaca a Forcella is a tablet with a Greek inscription, the only one remaining, supposed of the time of Domitian, relative to a statue and other honours decreed to Tettia Casta, a priestess. GATES. With the exception of a few frag- ments of its wall and ditch, Naples re- tains nothing of its mediaeval fortifica- tions but its 3 castles and a few of its modernised gates, which, being sur- rounded by streets and houses, are now within the city. They all have a bust of S. Gaetano, placed there in conse- quence of a vow of the municipality during the plague in 1656. The Porta Capuana stands on what was the high road to Capua before the new road by Capodichino was opened. It is decorated with the arms of Fer- dinand I. of Aragon, by whom it was erected, as well as the walls of the city in this direction. The modern orna- mented gate dates from 1535, when Charles V. made his entry into Naples. The bas-reliefs and statues of St. Agnello and San Gennaro were then placed over it. The two towers which flank the gate are of the time of Fer- dinand I., and were called L’Onore and La Virtu, names still inscribed upon them. The road which passes out of this gate is the post-road to Avellino and Puglia. The Porta Nolana, situated at the ex- tremity of the Strada Egiziaca, opens on a road which leads to the Arenaccia, and formerly also to Nola. The Porta del Carmine, near the Ch. of S. Maria del Carmine, stands on the high road to Portici, Salerno, and Calabria. Here stood the Porta della Conceria of Don Pedro de Toledo. Of all the gates, it is perhaps the best preserved, between its two massive round towers, bearing the names of Fidelissima and La Vittoria; over the arch is the statue on horseback of King Ferdinand in low-relief. The Porta Medina, in a small street on the W. of the Toledo, was built according to its inscription by the Viceroy Duke de Medina, in 1640, from the designs of Fansaga, but at the expense of the inhabitants of the dis- trict. After the Porta Capuana, it is the oldest gate now standing in Naples. The Porta di Costantinopoli, which stood at the extremity of the street of the same name, near the Museo Borbo- nico, has been lately pulled down. The other gates are the Porta Alba, so called from the Viceroy Duke of Alba, but more generally known by the name of Porta Sciuscella, in the Largo Spirito Santo; and the Porta di San Gennaro, near the Piazza delle Pigne. These I gates are comparatively modern, and offer no interest. The other entrances to the city which have no gates are the Strada del Campo, and the Strada di Capodichino, both of which lead to the point called II Campo , where the roads to Caserta and to Capua branch off; — the Strada di Ca~ podimonte, leading to the Royal Pa- lace of the same name, and thence into the road to Capua by Aversa; — the Strada di Posilipo, and the Grotta di Po~ silipo, both leading to Pozzuoli and Baise. PORTS. Naples has three ports, the Porto Piccolo, the Porto Grande, and the Porto Militare. The Porto Piccolo, although now only adapted for boats, is historically inte- resting, as the last remnant of the ancient port of Palaepolis. It extended inland as far as the site now occupied by the Ch. of S. Pietro Martire. Hence the whole of this district of the city is called the Quartiere di Porto. The foundations of an ancient light- house are to be seen near S. Onofrio de’ Vecchi, and gave to a small street adjoining the name of Lanterna Vec- j chia. The harbour which now remains is little more than a basin or wet dock. !: The shallowing of its water has been going on for a considerable period. On the point of the Molo Piccolo, which separates the Porto Piccolo from the Porto Grande, is the Immacolatella, in which the Captain of the Port and a branch of the Board of Health have their offices. On the other side of the port is the Custom-house. The district NAPLES — BRIDGES — CASTLES. 79 on the S.E. of this port is called the Mandracchio, a term in which some of the local antiquaries recognise the Phoenician designation of the old har- bour, and others the original market- place for herds, mandre , of cows. It is inhabited by the lowest populace, whose habits have given rise to the proverb educcito al Mandracchio. The Porto Grande was formed in 1302 by Charles II., of Anjou. He constructed the Mole called the Molo Grande, which was enlarged by Alfonso of Aragon. At its extremity, at the close of the 15th centy., a lighthouse was erected, which was destroyed by lightning and rebuilt in 1056, and lastly reduced to its present form in 1843. Charles III., in 1740, completed the harbour by carrying an arm to the N.E. nearly as long as the mole itself, leaving the lighthouse at the elbow and converting its whole length towards the sea into a battery of long 32-pound guns. This fort was so much increased in 1792 as to cover the whole arm erected by Charles. The harbour itself has suffered, like the Porto Piccolo, from the accumulation of the sand and mud, but it has still 3 or 4 fathoms in its deepest part. It is considered safe, as ships when once within the mole are protected from all winds ; but the heavy swell which rolls into the bay after a S.W. gale makes it some- times difficult to enter. The Porto Militare is a new harbour exclusively for ships of the Royal Navy. It was begun in 1826 by Francis I., and is still in progress. The old mole of the Porto Grande forms its boundary on the N., and on the S. it is bounded by a broad and massive pier running into the sea in a S.E. direction for a distance of 1200 ft., to terminate in an arm bending to the N.E. The depth of water in this harbour is about 5 fathoms. Frigates and the smaller vessels of the Neapolitan Navy sometimes anchor within the head of the Molo Grande ; but the usual anchorage of ships of war is about a mile S.S.E. of the light- house, where the depth of water is from 25 to 38 fathoms. BRIDGES. Although there are four bridges, so called, at Naples, there is only one which is properly entitled to the name, the others being viaducts which span the valleys or depressions within the city itself. In fact, there is only one stream at Naples to require a bridge, and that is the Sebeto, the classic Sebe- thus, a small and shallow stream. Nec tu carminibus nostris indictus abibis, (Ebale, quem generasse Telon Sebethide nympha Fertur, Teleboum Capreas cum regna tenerefc Jam senior. Virg. JEn. vn. 734. The bridge over the Sebeto, called the Ponte della Maddalena , was built by Charles III. on the site of a more an- cient one, called the Ponte di Guiscardo. It derives its present name from the adjoining ch. of La Maddalena. The Ponte di Chiaia is a viaduct, built in 1634, as a means of communi- cation between the hills of Pizzofalcone and Sant’ Elmo. It was rebuilt in its present form in 1838. The Ponte della Sanitd is a very noble viaduct, built in 1809 by the French as part of the new road which the} constructed from the Toledo to Capo dimonte. It derives its name from the suburb of La Sanita, which is reputed to be one of the healthiest quarters of Naples. The Ponte dell’ Tmmacolatella is situ- ated at the northern extremity of the Strada del Piliero, near the Molo Pic- colo. It was built by Charles III. and rebuilt in 1843 by Ferdinand II. CASTLES. The Castel Nnovo, with its towers and fosses, massive in bulk and irre- gular in plan, has been sometimes called the Bastile of Naples, although its position near the port and the iso- lated fortress which occupies its centre give it a more general resemblance to the Tower of London. It was begun in 1283 by Charles I. from the designs of Giovanni di Pisa , in what was then called the French style of fortification in contradis- tinction to the German manner, which, we are told, was so displeasing to 80 NAPLES — CASTEL KUO VO. Charles in the Castel Capuano. Charles did not see it completed. His suc- cessors used it as their palace, being at that time beyond the boundaries of the city, and near the sea. About the middle of the 15th centy. Alfonso I. enlarged it by the addition of another line of walls and towers, protected by a new fosse. Of the outer wall of Alfonso, the circular bastion towards the Piazza del Castello is supposed to be the only portion now remain- ing, the greater part of the present works being attributed to Don Pedro de Toledo, who built the square bas- tions about 1546. In 1735 Charles III. reduced the whole to the form in which, with few exceptions, we now see it. The chief object of interest in the Castel Nuovo is the Triumphal Arch erected in 1470, in honour of the entry of Alfonso of Aragon into Naples in 1443, by Pietro di Martino, a Milanese architect, or, according to Vasari, by Giuliano da Maiano. It stands between two of the old Anjou towers, whose broad and massive walls contrast singularly with its classical style and elaborate decorations. Compressed be- tween these solid towers, it gives, at first sight, the appearance of a trium- phal arch which has been elongated upwards. This, however, was no fault of the architect, who had designed his work on a different scale for the Piazza del Duomo ; but the interest of Niccolh Bozzuto, a veteran officer of Alfonso, whose house was to be pulled down to make room for the monu- ment, induced the king to order the site to be changed to the Castel Nuovo. It consists of an archway flanked by Corinthian columns supporting a frieze and cornice, and an attic containing the bas-reliefs of Alfonso’s entry into Naples, in the execution of which con- tributed the sculptors Isaia da Pisa and Silvestro dell ’ Aquila. Upon this rests another frieze and cornice sur- mounted by a second arch, which sup- ports a kind of sarcophagus with four niches containing statues illustrating Alfonso’s virtues. Over the first arch is the inscription Alphonsvs Rex Hispa- NVS SlCVLVS ItALICVS PI VS CLEMENS invictvs. The bas-relief is very in- teresting as a specimen of the sculpture of the 15th centy. It represents Al- fonso entering Naples in a triumphal car drawn by four horses, in the style seen on ancient medals, attended by his courtiers and by the clergy and authorities of the city, all of whom are dressed in the costume of the period. Over it is the inscription Alphonsvs Regvm princeps hanc condidit ar~ cem. The three statues of St. Michael, St. Anthony Abbot, and St. Sebastian, on the summit of the arch, are by Gio- vanni da Nolo, and were added by Don Pedro de Toledo. Passing under this arch we enter the piazza by the cele- brated Bronze Gates , executed by the monk Guglielmo of Naples, and repre- senting in various compartments the victories of Ferdinand I. over the Duke of Anjou and the rebellious barons. Imbedded in one of the gates is a can- non-ball, fired, according to Paolo Giovio, during one of the contests between the French and Spaniards in the time of Gonsalvo da Cordova. It was fired from the interior of the castle by the French, who had closed the gates at the first noticeiof the approach of the Spaniards. The ball was unable to penetrate the gate, and has since remained sq imbedded in the metal that it cannot be removed though it can be turned round. Beyond the gates are the ch., the barracks, and a build- ing which is said to date from the time of the Angevin kings, and in which is the magnificent hall used as the prin- cipal Armoury, called the Sala di S. Luigi , or the Sala delle Armi. This hall, which now contains 60,000 stand of arms, has been at different times a room of royal audience, a saloon for state festivals, a music hall, and a court theatre. Within its walls Ce- lestin V. abdicated the pontificate in 1294, and the Count of Sarno and Antonello Petrucci were arrested by Ferdinand I. of Aragon (p. 96). In another room, converted into a chapel dedicated to S. Francesco di Paola, that saint had his famous interview with Ferdinand I. of Aragon as he passed through Naples on his way to France, whither he had been summoned by Louis XI. The picture of the saint NAPLES — CASTEL DELL’ OVO. 81 is ascribed to Spagnoletto. In the ch., dedicated to Santa Barbara, the Corin- thian architecture of its fa£ade is by Giuliano da Maiano. It is an interest- ing building, exhibiting, in the details of its decorations, after the usual man- ner of the time, an incongruous mixture of sacred and profane objects. On the door is a beautiful bas-relief of the Virgin and Child, said to be also by Majano. In the choir, behind the high altar, is the famous picture of the Adoration of the Magi, which has been the subject of much controversy. Vasari attributes it to Van Eyck , and says it is one of the first works which he painted in oils, after his discovery or rediscovery of the art ‘of oil painting. Vasari adds that it was sent by some Italian merchants trading in Flanders as a present to Alfonso I., and that on its arrival at Naples every painter hast- ened to view it as a curiosity. Others ascribe it to Zingaro, or to his pupils the Donzelli , on the evidence that the countenances of the three Magi, being portraits of Alfonso I., Ferdinand I., and another royal person of the time (perhaps Lucrezia d’Alagni), Van Eyck, who painted it in Flanders, could not have introduced the portrait of the king whom he had never seen. To evade this objection it has been sometimes stated, though without his- torical evidence, that the countenances of the Magi were retouched and changed into portraits by Lo Zingaro. Near the sacristy is a small statue of the Virgin with the child in her arms. I It is attributed to Giuliano da Maiano by [ Cicognara, who praises the elegance of the figures and the richness of the drapery. Behind the choir is a sin- gular Winding Stair of 1 58 steps, leading to the summit of the Campanile. It has been ascribed to Giovanni da Pisa, but it is more probably a work of the 15th cent. A covered gallery between the castle and the palace affords a means of retreat from the latter in case of popular commotion. The Dockyard and Arsenal adjoin the I Castel Nuovo and the Royal Palace, j The Arsenal was built by the Viceroy I Mendoza in 1577. The Wet Dock, or ■ Darsena, was begun in 1668 from the . designs of a Carthusian monk called Bonaventura Presti, who, having been a carpenter in early life, and acquired some knowledge of architecture, in- duced the Viceroy Don Pedro of Aragon to intrust to him the construction of a new dock. In spite of all remonstrance, he persisted in excavating it on the narrow site below the palace. During the progress of the work, the accumu- lation of water proved too much for the engineering talents of the monk. The Viceroy at length employed the able architect Francesco Picchiatti, who completed the works with great skill. Considerable additions have been made to these works in recent years, parti- cularly since the introduction of steam- navigation. The Darsena now commu- nicates with the Porto Militare, and through the latter with the sea. Castel dell’ Ovo, so called from its oval form, stands on the small island which Pliny describes under the name of Megaris, and is now joined to the mainland of Pizzofalcone by a causeway on arches 800 ft. long. Some antiquaries supposed Lucullus to have had a villa on this island, and identified it with the Oestrum Lucullanum of the 5th cent., to which Odoacer consigned Augustulus at the fall of the Roman empire. Others however, placed the Castrum Lucul- lanum at Nisita, and Mazzocchi ex- tended it to the whole shore of the Bagnoli, and even to the Lake of Agna- no. But Chiarito at last proved be- yond doubt, by numerous old docu- ments existing in the archives, that it was on the hill of Pizzofalcone, which in the middle ages was also called Echya, Emplu, & c. In the 4th cent, this island was given by Constantine to the church, and was called the Isola di S. Salvatore. The castle was founded in 1154 by William I. on the designs of Maestro Bueno. It was continued by Frederick II., who held within its walls a general parliament in 1218, and in 1221 intrusted the work to Niccolb Pisano ; it was completed, however, as Vasari tells us, by his con- temporary Fuccio. Charles I. added considerably to the castle, and made it occasionally a royal residence. Robert the Wise employed Giotto to decorate its e 3 82 NAPLES — CASTLES. chapel with frescoes, no trace of which now remains. Friendly interviews took place in the castle between Giotto and his royal patron, who seems to have been always happy in the society of the witty painter. A century later, when Charles Durazzo was besieged by Louis of Anjou, the castle appears to have been a position of some strength, from Froissart’s statement : “ It is one of the strongest castles in the world, and stands by enchantment in the sea, so that it is impossible to take it but by necromancy, or by the help of the devil.” This allusion to necromancy was probably suggested by the fate of the magician described in the same chroni- cles, who had, by means of his enchant- ments, caused “ the sea to swell so high,” that he enabled Charles Durazzo to capture within the castle “ the queen (Joanna) of Naples and Sir Otho de Brunswick ;” and whose offer to prac- tise the same treacherous manoeuvre upon Charles Durazzo was rewarded by the Earl of Savoy with the loss of his head. The castle was besieged in 1495 by Ferdinand II. after it had sur- rendered to Charles VIII. of France, and was reduced to ruin by his soldiers ; the period of its restoration in its pre- sent form is not known. It is defended by bastions and outworks. Castel Capuano, founded by William I., on the designs of Buono, was com- pleted in 1231 by Frederick II. from the designs of Faccio. It was the Palace of the Suabian, and occasionally of the Angevine sovereigns. The mur- der of Sergianni Caracciolo, the Grand Seneschal and favourite of Joanna II., by order of Covella Rufifo, Duchess of Sessa, took place within its walls on the night of the 25th of August, 1432, after a ball. Covella came out of the ball- room to see her victim, and stamped with her foot on his bloody corpse. Don Pedro de Toledo, in 1540, reduced it to the form of a palace, and esta- blished within it the different law-courts which were scattered throughout the city. The Tribunal of Commerce, the Civil Tribunal, the Great Criminal Court, and the Great Civil Court, still hold their sittings within its walls. They consist of several rooms, opening out of two large halls on the first floor ; the latter, constantly filled with law- yers and litigants, offer one of the busiest scenes in Naples. From the Criminal Court a stair leads to the pri- sons on the ground floor, which are capable of receiving many hundred in- mates, and have of late years acquired an unfortunate celebrity as the prisons of La Vicaria. Castel Sant’ Elmo, called in the 14th cent. Sant’ Erasmo , from a chapel dedi- cated to that Saint, which once crowned the summit of the hill. The origin of the name Ermo has given rise to much controversy ; some writers derive it from the Erma, said to have stood on the spot to mark the division of the territories of Neapolis and Puteoli ; and others from S. Antelmo, one of the founders of the Carthusian order. The castle was founded by Robert the Wise in 1343. The king’s commission to his grand chamberlain Giovanni di Haya to construct a “ fortified palace ” on this hill still exists. The archi- tect was Giacomo de Sanctis. A centy. later, under Ferdinand I., it was known as the Castello di S. Martino , from the neighbouring monastery. This monarch employed as engineer and architect Antonio da Settignano, and his friend Andrea da Fiesole, upon its works. From this period to the middle of the 1 6th cent, no particulars of its history have been preserved, and nothing more is known than that Don Pedro de Toledo built the castle in its present form upon the plans of Luigi Sct'iva. Some additions were made to the castle in 1641 by the Duke de Medina ; and with these exceptions, we probably see the very building erected by Pedro de Toledo. Sant’ Elmo is too conspicuous a feature in the landscape of Naples to require a detailed descrip- tion. Its enormous walls, with the counterscarp and fosses cut in the solid tufa, and the mines and subterranean passages with which it is said to abound, formerly obtained for it the reputa- tion of great strength ; but it is no longer capable of offering any effec- tual resistance to a combined at- tack by sea and land. Beneath it, in the solid rock, is a large cistern. NAPLES — LARGHI AND FOUNTAINS. 83 The view from the ramparts is very fine. Castel del Carmine , a massive pile, founded by Ferdinand I. in 1484, when he enlarged the walls of the city, and erected most of the modern gates, and enlarged by Don Pedro de Toledo, is used as barracks and military prison. It was the stronghold of the populace in Masaniello’s insurrection in 1647, and after that event it was fortified. LARGHI AND FOUNTAINS. The large open spaces called Piazze in other parts of Italy, in Naples are invariably called Larghi , corresponding to our term “ squares.” The Largo del Castello , the largest in Naples, con- tains two fountains, called the Fontana degli Specchi , or the Fountain of Mirrors, and the Fontana Medina. The latter, situated at the extremity of the Largo, towards the mole, was built by the Viceroy de Medina from the designs of Domenico Auria and Fansaga. It con- sists of a large shell, sustained by four satyrs; in the centre of the shell are four sea-horses, with Neptune in the midst of them throwing up water from the points of his trident. At the base are four tritons seated on sea-horses, with lions and other animals discharg- ing water from their mouths. It is considered the finest fountain in Naples. Largo del Gesu, in the Strada Trinita Maggiore, has in its centre the obelisk called the Guglia della Concezione , erected in 1747, from the designs of Genoino. It supports a statue of the Virgin in copper gilt. The obelisk is covered with sculptured ornaments by Botti- glieri and Pagano, in the worst possible taste. The colossal bronze statue of Philip IV. by Lorenzo Vaccaro, which formerly stood in this Largo, was de- stroyed by the Austrians in the be- ginning of the last cent. In the Largo di Monte Oliveto, near this, is a foun- tain, designed by Cufaro in 1668, and ornamented with a bronze statue of Charles V. Largo del Mercato , near the ch. of the Carmine. — A great market is held here every Monday and Friday, which offers many facilities for studying the habits and costumes of the lower orders. It is also the historical Square of Naples, the 'Scene of the tragedy of Conradin in 1268, of the insurrection of Masa- niello in 1647, and of the executions in 1799. There are three fountains, the most important of which is called the Fontana di Masaniello. Largo dello Spirito Santo, or del Mer- catello .- — It contains the monument erected in 1757 by the city of Naples in honour of Charles IIT. It was de- signed by Vanvitelli, and consists of a hemicycle surmounted by a marble balustrade with 26 statues representing the virtues of that sovereign. The centre, where an equestrian statue of the king was to be placed, is now the entrance into the Jesuits’ College of S. Sebastian. Piazza del Pennino, or della Selleria, contains the Fontana dell ’ Atlante , con- structed of white marble in 1532, by Don Pedro de Toledo, from the designs of Luigi Imp5. The statue of Atlas by Giovanni da Nola, which gave name to the fountain, has disappeared; but the dolphins which remain are by him. In the Vico Canalone near this Largo is the Fontana de’ Serpi, so called from the bas-relief of an antique head of Medusa with serpents. Largo del Palazzo Reale. — This fine and spacious piazza was reduced to its present form in 1810, when four con- vents which formerly stood upon the site were removed. On one of its sides is the Royal Palace ; on another is the Palace of the Prince of Salerno ; the third, forming a semicircle, is occupied by the ch. of S. Francesco di Paola and the porticos leading to it. In the middle of the square are the two colossal eques- trian bronze statues of Charles III. and of Ferdinand I. of Bourbon. The two horses and the statue of Charles are by Canova ; the statue of Ferdinand is by Cali. The history of the figure of Charles is an epitome of the political changes of Naples itself. It was ori- ginally modelled as a statue of Napoleon; it was afterwards altered into one of Murat, and was finally converted into that of Charles. In the small square of the Royal Palace beyond the Theatre of S. Carlo, on each side of the en- 84 NAPLES AQUEDUCTS, ETC. trance to the king’s gardens, are two statues of horses in bronze, cast at Petersburg, and presented to the king by the late Emperor of Russia: each is held by a naked male figure. In the same gardens is an Artesian well. Among the other fountains may be mentioned the Fontana Scapellata , be- hind the ch. of the Nunziata, the work of Giovanni da Nola in 1541 ; the Fon- tana Coccovaia, by the same artist, in the Strada di Porto ; the Fontana del Sebeto, erected in 1590 from the de- signs of Carlo Fansaga, and decorated with statues of the recumbent Sebetus and Tritons ; and the Fontana del Ratio d’Furopa, in the Villa Reale, the work of Angelo de Vivo in the last cent. AQUEDUCTS, ETC, The Acqua di Carmignano, the modern aqueduct of Naples, was constructed by Alessandro Ciminello and Cesare Car- mignano, at their own expense, in the beginning of the 1 7th century. It com- mences at Sant’ Agata de’ Goti, and conveys the waters of the Isclero into the city by a circuit of about 30 m. It was so damaged by the earthquake of 1631, that it became necessary to seek a new supply at Maddaloni, whence the .water is conveyed into the former chan- nel at Licignano. From its source to that place the channel is covered with masonry, and from Licignano to Naples it is subterranean. In 1770 a further supply was obtained by directing into the channel the surplus waters of the aqueduct at Caserta. Most of the city fountains and houses are supplied from this aqueduct. The Acqua della Bolla , derived from springs on the declivity of Monte Som- ma and the hill of Lautrec, is brought into the city by a covered channel 5 m. long. It supplies the lower quarters of the city. The surplus waters of this aqueduct are discharged into the Sebeto. Quanto ricco d’ onor povero d’ onde. Met ast. The water supplied by these aque- ducts has often, at first, an unfavourable effect upon strangers. City Springs. — There are four in different quarters of the city : the Tre Cannoli in the street of the same name ; the Acqua Aquilia in the Strada Conte Olivares ; the Acqua Dolce at Santa Lucia ; and the Acqua del Leone in the Mergellina. The latter is in great re- pute as the purest spring ; the court and many of the families residing along the Chiaia, which is not supplied with good water, send to it daily for their supplies. Mineral Waters. — There are two mineral springs within the city, which have great local celebrity — the Acqua Sulfurea , in the Strada S. Lucia, con- taining sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid gas, at a temperature of 64° F. ; it is used extensively in eruptive diseases, and as a general alterative, and is said to be as efficacious as it is popular ; and the Acqua Ferrata di Fizzofalcone, a chalybeate spring, situated in a cave near the sea, imme- diately below the Royal Casino on the Chiatamone. It is a very useful cha- lybeate, and the large quantity of car- bonic acid gas which it contains (nearly 7 cubic inches in a pint) renders it a grateful stimulant to the stomach. Its temperature is 68°. Artesian Wells. — The inadequate supply of water, especially in the upper part of the town, induced the Munici- pal authorities some years ago to enter into a contract with the French engineer M. Degousse, for sinking two Arte- sian wells — one near the King’s Palace, and the other on the Largo della Vit- toria, near the Chiaia : the former, after many years’ labour, and attaining the depth of 486 yards below the level of the sea, has reached two abundant sources, which rise to within a few yards of the surface, producing a mass of water ex- ceeding 2500 tons daily, but of a qua- lity which renders it unfit for domestic purposes, being a mineral water in the strictest sense, containing an immense volume of carbonic acid gas, and hold- ing in solution a considerable quantity of supercarbonates of iron, lime, mag- nesia, & c., and a small quantity of naphtha. To the geologist these bor- ings will prove interesting. After tra- versing a considerable mass of volcanic tufa, the tertiary pliocene strata were cut through, and the two springs in NAPLES — STREETS AND PUBLIC PLACES. question appear to be entirely derived from them. The second boring, in the Largo della Vittoria, has not yet reached the water, but it is almost certain that for potable purposes this will be no better than in that at the Palace, and that the only advantages to be derived will be either by em- ploying it as a motive power— or what would be still more advantageous, to flush the pestilential drains in the lower part of the city, now a source of so much inconvenience and insa- lubrity. PRINCIPAL STREETS AND PUBLIC PLACES. The Villa Reale , along the Riviera di Chiaia, is the favourite promenade of Naples. Its length is about 5000 feet, and its width about 200 ; it forms a long narrow strip, separated from the Riviera di Chiaia by an iron railing, and from the sea by a wall and parapet. The lower classes, peasants, and servants in livery are only admitted once a year, at the festival of Sta. Maria di Piedigrotta on the 8th Sep- tember. The ground is divided into walks, planted chiefly with acacias and evergreen oaks. One part of it con- tains a shrubbery of deciduous plants and evergreens, with some Australian shrubs, date-palms, bananas, &c. The Villa was first laid out in 1 7 80, to nearly half its present length ; another portion of the same extent was added in 1807, and a third portion of about 1200 feet was added in 1834. The first half is in the Italian style, the remainder is an attempt to imitate the less formal plea- sure grounds of England, by the intro- duction of winding paths, grottos, a loggia towards the sea, and two small temples to Virgil and Tasso. The large granite basin which forms the central fountain, where formerly the Toro Farnese stood, was brought in 1825 from Salerno, where it had been brought from Paestum by. King Roger. The Toro Farnese was then removed to the Museo Borbonico, as it was found that the sea air was injurious to the marble. Several other ancient statues were removed at the same time, and replaced by indifferent copies of some of the admired works of anti- quity. The Riviera di Chiaia, of which the Villa Reale may be said to form a part, was begun by the Count d’ Olivares, and completed by the Duke de Medina Celi, the last of the Spanish viceroys. The Santa Lucia is one of the fish- markets, especially for oysters and many varieties of shell-fish, of which the Neapolitans are extremely fond. It was once a very dirty street; but it was enlarged and widened as we now see it in 1846. It has a fountain adorned with fine statues and bas-re- liefs by Domenico d’Auria and Giovanni da Nola. One of the bas-reliefs repre- sents Neptune and Amphitrite, the other a contest of sea divinities for the possession of a nymph. The Toledo. — This celebrated street, the main artery of Naples, is about lj m. in length, from the end of the Largo del Palazzo to the Museo Borbonico ; and if we include the Strada di Capodimonte, as far as the Ponte della Sanita, its length is 2 m. It was built in 1540 by the Viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo, on what was the western fosse or ditch of the old city. It separates the Naples of the middle ages, which lay between it and the Castel del Carmine, from the modern city, which extends to the westward along the S. slopes of Sant’ Elmo and the Chiaia. It is the greatest thorough- fare in Naples, the site of the princpal shops ; from morning to night it is thronged with people and with car- riages. The Marinella, a long, open beach beyond the Castel del Carmine, and the Largo del Mercato, was once the head quarters of the Lazzaroni, a class which is now almost extinct, or at least has lost those distinctive features which the travellers of half a cent, ago so graphically described. The people to whom the term is now applied are, for the most part, boatmen and fisher- men, two of the most industrious classes in Naples. The habits of these men are still as amphibious as those of their predecessors ; they may be seen here standing beside their boats in the water for an hour at a time, or 86 NAPLES THEATRES. lying on the beach, and basking in the sun, regardless of the stench arising from the sewers which empty them- selves into the sea. As a class they are universally acknowledged to be abste- mious and frugal, and they continue, what Matthews found them, “ a merry, joyous race, with a keen relish for drollery, and endued with a power of feature that is shown in the richest exhibitions of comic grimace.” — “ If Naples,” says Forsyth, “ be a Paradise inhabited by devils, I am sure it is by merry devils. Even the lowest class enjoy every blessing that can make the animal happy, — a delicious cli- mate, high spirits, a facility of satisfy- ing every appetite, and a conscience which gives no pain. . . . Yet these are men whose persons might stand as models to a sculptor; whose gestures strike you with the commanding ener- gies of a savage ; whose language, gaping and broad as it is, when kindled by passion bursts into oriental meta- phor ; whose ideas are cooped, indeed, within a narrow circle — but a circle in which they are invincible.” The Molo, built in 1302 by Charles II., is one of the favourite promenades of the lower classes, where we may see on every afternoon the national cha- racter developed without any restraint. Till within a few years ago the Molo was the favourite resort of the Canta- storie , who read, sang, and gesticulated tales of Rinaldo and his Paladins, out of a mediaeval poem called II Rinaldo, to a motley amlience seated on planks or standing. The Cantastorie are now to be found on the shore of the Mari- nella beyond the Molo Piccolo. In the later part of the last cent, the Molo was often resorted to by Padre Rocco, the Dominican, of whose influence over his excitable audience many anecdotes are told. On one occa- sion, it is related, he preached on this mole a penitential sermon, and intro- duced so many illustrations of terror that he soon brought his hearers to their knees. While they were thus showing every sign of contrition, he cried out, “ Now all you who sincerely repent of your sins, hold up your hands.” Every man in the vast multi- tude immediately stretched out both his hands. “Holy Archangel Michael,” ex- claimed Rocco, ‘ ‘ thou who with thine adamantine sword standest at the right of the judgment-seat of God, hew me off every hand which has been raised hypocritically.” In an instant every hand dropped, and Rocco of course poured forth a fresh torrent of elo- quent invective against their sins and their deceit. THEATRES. The Teatro Reale di San Carlo, adjoin- ing the royal palace, is celebrated throughout Europe as one of the largest buildings dedicated to the Italian opera. It owes its origin to Charles III., by whose order it was designed by the Sici- lian Giovanni Medrano, and built in the short space of eight months by the Nea- politan architect Angelo Carasale. It was first opened with great solemnity on the 4th Nov. 1737. During the performance the king sent for Carasale into his presence, and having publicly praised him for his work, remarked that, as the walls of the theatre were contiguous to those of the palace, it would have been convenient for the royal family had the two buildings been connected by a covered passage ; “ but,” he added, “ we will think of it.” Carasale took the hint, and did not re- main idle. No sooner was the evening’s entertainment concluded than he ap- peared before the king, and requested him to return to the palace by an ex- ternal communication opened in the course of three hours. In this short space of time walls of enormous thick- ness had been demolished, wooden bridges and staircases constructed, and the necessary roughness of the work disguised by draperies, mirrors, and lamps. The theatre, the extempore passage, and the merit of Carasale formed the general subject of conver- sation. Ere long his accounts were called for by the Camera della Som- maria, and, not being able to satisfy the auditors, he was threatened with im- prisonment. The beauty of his work, the universal applause, the favour of his NAPLES — THEATRES. sovereign, the respectability of his past j life, and his present poverty were of no avail to him. The inquiries of the Sommaria were renewed, and at last the unfortunate Carasale was imprisoned in the castle of St. Elmo, where, during the first months, he lived on the sup- port his family with extreme difficulty procured for him, and afterwards was obliged to subsist on prison fare. He lingered there for several years, till at length grief and want put an end to his miserable existence. His sons sunk into poverty and obscurity, and even the very name of the unfortunate architect would have been by this time long for- gotten, did not the merit and beauty of his work perpetually recall him to the memory of posterity. In the last cent, this theatre resounded with the melodious notes of Anfossi, Gu- glielmi, Pergolesi, Cimarosa, Paesiello, and other great masters of harmony, and in our days it has echoed the ap- plause of an audience enchanted with the melodies of Kossini, Bellini, Doni- zetti, and Mercadante. The Donna del Lago, the Mose, the Sonnambula, the Lucia, the Giuramento, &c., were first brought out on this stage. Having been accidentally burnt down in 1816, it was rebuilt in the space of seven months by Niccolini; but the walls having remained uninjured, no altera- tion was made in the original form. On entering it for the first time, when it is lit up at night, the stranger cannot fail to be struck with its great size and the splendour of its general effect. It has six tiers of boxes of 32 each. Boxes, 1st tier, 7 ducats; 2nd tier, 9 ducats; 3rd tier, 6 ducats ; 4th tier, 4.50 ; 5th tier, 3.60 ; 6th tier, 2 ; seats in the pit. from the 1st to the 18th row, 60 grani ; the others, 50 grani. The prices are double on state occasions. The Teatro del Fondo , built in 1778 in the Strada Molo, the second of the two royal theatres, is a miniature San Carlo, being under the same mana- ger, supplied by the same singers, dancers, and musicians, and likewise devoted exclusively to operas and ballets. The two establishments are opened on alternate nights. Boxes, 1st tier, 4 due. 50 gr. ; 2nd, 6 due. ; 3rd, 87 3.60; 4th, 2.40; 5th, 1.20; pit seats, 40 gr. The Teatro de’ Fiorentini, in the street of the same name, is the oldest theatre in Naples, and is so called from the ch. in its vicinity. It was built in the time of the viceroy Onate for the Spanish comedy. It afterwards became the theatre of the opera buffa. It is now chiefly devoted to the Italian drama, and is very popular. Boxes, 1st and 2nd tiers, 3 due. ; 3rd tier, 2 due. ; 4th tier, 1.50; 5th tier, 1 ; pit, 30 grani. The Teatro Nuovo, in the street of the same name, built in 1724 by Cara- sale, is chiefly devoted to the opera buffa. Boxes, 1st tier, 2.40; 2d tier, 3.60; 3d tier, 2.20; 4th tier, 1.50 ; 5th tier, 1 due. ; pit, 30 gr. The Teatro San Ferdinando, near Ponte Nuovo, is a theatre of occasional ama- teur performances. Boxes, 1st tier, 1.60; 2d tier, 2.60; 3d tier, 1.40; 4th tier, 1 due. ; pit, 20 gr. The Teatro della Fenice, in the Largo del Castello, is devoted to opera buffa and melodrama. It has two perform- ances daily. In the Morning, the boxes are — 1st and 2d tiers, 1 due. ; 3d tier, CO gr. ; pit, 12 gr. In the Evening, boxes, 1st and 2nd tiers, 1.20 ; 3rd tier, 80 gr. ; pit, 15 gr. The Teatro Partenope, in the Largo delle Pigne, is one of the popular thea- tres in which broad comedy and farce are performed twice a day in the Nea- politan dialect. Boxes, 1st tier, 80 grani ; 2d tier, 1 ducat ; 3d tier, 60 grani ; pit, 10 grani. The Teatro di San Carlino, in the Largo del Castello, is the head quarters of Pulcinella, and the characteristic theatre of Naples. The wit of Pulci- nella and the humour of the other per- formers make it a favourite resort of all classes. The performance is always in the Neapolitan dialect. The awkward- ness which is the characteristic of a clown is combined in Pulcinella with a coarse but facetious humour, which popular licence has made the vehicle of satire. He is therefore in great re- quest, and his performances take place twice a day, morning and evening. “What,” says Forsyth, “is a drama in Naples without Punch, or what is 88 NAPLES — FESTIVALS. Punch out of Naples ? Here, in his native tongue, and among his own countrymen, Punch is a person of real power ; he dresses up and retails all the drolleries of the day ; he is the channel and sometimes the source of the pass- ing opinions ; he can inflict ridicule ; he could gain a mob, or keep the whole kingdom in good humour. Capponi and others consider Punch as a lineal representative of the Atellan farcers. They find a convincing resemblance between his mask and a little chicken- nosed figure in bronze which was dis- covered at Rome ; and from his nose they derive his name, a putticeno pullicinella ! Admitting this descent, we might push the origin of Punch back to very re- mote antiquity. Punch is a native of Atella , and therefore an Oscan. Now the Oscan farces were anterior to any stage. They intruded on the stage only in its barbarous state, and were dis- missed on the first appearance of a regular drama. They then appeared as exodia on trestles ; their mummers spoke broad Volscan ; whatever they spoke they grimaced like Datus ; they retailed all the scandal that passed, as poor Mallonia’s wrongs. Their parts were frequently interwoven with other dramas, consertaque fabellis (says Livy) potissimum Atettanis sunt. Quod genus bidorum ab Oscis aeceptum ; and in all these respects the Exodiarius corre- sponds with the Punch of Naples.’ 5 ' In the Morning the boxes are, 1st tier, 1 due. ; 2nd tier, 80 grani ; pit, 12 grani. In the Evening , boxes, 1st tier, 1.20; 2nd, 1 due. ; pit, 15 grani. POPULAR AND CHURCH FESTIVALS. The traveller who has witnessed the imposing church ceremonies at Rome will not find much novelty in the religious festivals of Naples, except that they appear to constitute an im- portant element in the amusements of the people. Like their Greek pro- genitors, the Neapolitans, on all occa- sions, associate their devotions with their pleasures. The veneration for the Madonna is universal in Naples. At the angle of several streets and in many shops there is a picture of the “ Madre di Dio,” with one or two lamps burning per- petually before it. It will, therefore, not be surprising to find that the two great festivals of the people are in honour of the Virgin. The Festa di Piedigrotta, the great popular festival of Naples, which takes place on the 8th of September, is one of the most singular displays of national character and costume which we can meet with at the present day in Europe. This festa, which is commonly be- lieved to have been instituted by Charles III. in commemoration of the victory of the Spaniards over the Austrians, at Velletri, in 1744, dates at least so far back as the middle of the 16th cent., and the Spanish viceroys used to visit the ch. in great state on the 8tli of September, lining the Chiaia with soldiers, as in our times. In honour of the day all the available troops of the continental dominions, amounting often to 30,000 men, are marched into the city, and, after having defiled before the king and royal family in the piazza of the palace, they pro- ceed to line the streets from the palace to the ch. of Piedigrotta, including the long line of the Chiaia. At 4 o’clock his majesty and the royal family, in their state carriages, attended by the ministers and the great officers of the Court, and escorted by flying footmen, wearing powdered wigs and no hats, set out in procession through this double line of soldiery, whose brilliant uniforms give unusual gaiety to the scene. Each prince proceeds in a sepa- rate carriage and in the order in which he would succeed to the throne. After performing their devotions at the ch., the royal family return to the palace in the same order ; and the rest of the day is a scene of unrestrained rejoicing to the thousands of gaily-dressed pea- santry who come from all parts of the kingdom to swell the throng of merry- makers in the city. The Villa Beale is on this day open to all classes, and is full of numbers of country people from the environs, in their gay national cos- tumes. It was formerly the practice among the common people of the en- virons to stipulate in marrying that N A PLES — FESTIVALS. the bride should be taken to this festa. The Festa di Monte Vergine takes place on Whit Sunday, and derives its name from the sanctuary of the Madonna di Monte Vergine, near Avel- lino (Rte. 148). Three days are usu- ally devoted to the festival. At the sanctuary the Neapolitans are met by crowds of pilgrims from every pro- vince in the kingdom ; great, therefore, are the varieties of costume, and strong- ly marked are the shades of national character and the differences of dialect, to be observed in this gathering of many races. Here the ethnologist may study the peculiarities of the descend- ants of Greeks, Samnites, Etruscans, Bruttii, Marsi, Lucanians, Longobards, Normans, Suabians, Provencals, and Aragonese. The archaeologist may ob- serve the population of Naples indulg- ing in customs and observances which denote unmistakably their Greek origin. Their persons are covered with every variety of ornament ; the heafls of both men and women are crowned with wreaths of flowers and fruits ; in their hands they carry garlands or poles, like thyrsi, surmounted with branches of fruit or flowers. On their return home- wards, their vehicles are decorated with branches of trees intermixed with pictures of the Madonna pur- chased at her shrine, and their horses are gay with ribbons of all hues, and frequently with a plume of showy fea- thers on their heads. The whole scene I as fully realizes the idea of a Baccha- nalian procession as if we could now see one emerging from the gates of old Pompeii. On their way home the Neapolitans take the road by Nola, where they stop on the Sunday evening, and the next morning, Whit Monday, they proceed to the other great sanc- tuary — - The Madonna dell ’ Arco, 7 m. from Naples, at the basis of Mount Somma. A great number of the people, who cannot afford to go to Monte Vergine, visit the Madonna dell’ Arco, where they dance the Tarantella and sing their national songs. From that place to Naples the road is a continued scene of dancing, singing, and re- 89 joicing, mingled with a kind of rude music. The Festa di Capodimonte takes place on the 15th of August, on which day the grounds of the Palace of Capodi- monte are thrown open to the public, and to vehicles of all descriptions, ex- cept hackney carriages. The approach of Christmas is indi- cated by the arrival of the Zampognari, the bagpipers of the Abruzzi, who annually visit Naples and Rome at this season to earn a, few ducats from the pious by playing their hymns and carols beneath the figures of the Madonna. The appearance of these mountain minstrels, with their pointed hats, their brown cloaks, their sandals, and their bagpipes, is as sure a sign of Christmas as the vast collections of good cheer which the Neapolitan tradesmen expose with such quaint fancies and devices in the principal streets and squares during the week preceding Christmas Day. On Christmas Eve, and on Christ- mas Day, there 'is a solemn service in the cathedral, and another in the Cap- pella Reale ; and from that time to the 2nd of February, the day of the Purifi- cation, the principal churches, and a few private houses, exhibit Presepi, or representations of the Nativity. In some cases they are worked by machinery, displaying not only the scenery, the buildings, and the furni- ture, but the domestic occupations and economy of the Holy Family. The king and the royal family usually spend the Christmas at Caserta, where a fine Presepe is exhibited to the public in one of the rooms of the Palace. At Easter, on the Thursday, and on Good Friday, the principal churches exhibit a representation of the Holy Sepulchre. At vespers on the Wed- nesday, Thursday, and Friday, the Miserere of Zingarelli is sung in the ch. of S. Pietro a Maiella. Easter Day is a universal holiday ; in the morning the common people go to Antignano, and in the evening to Poggio Reale. On Ascension Day there is a festival at the Ch. of the Madonna at Scafati, near Pompeii, and another at the pretty village of Carditello beyond Casoria, on the road to Caserta. 90 NAPLES — CHURCHES. On the Festival of Corpus Domini the archbishop and clergy in procession carry the host to the ch. of Santa Chiara, where they are met by the king and the royal family. After the archbishop has given his benediction to the king, his majesty accompanies the procession to the cathedral, the streets on this occasion being lined with troops. On the day of the Quattro Altari , or the octave of Corpus Domini, the host is carried in procession from the ch. of S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli, through the streets of S. Carlo and Toledo, and back again to S. Giacomo, stopping at four altars erected with great magnificence for the occasion in different parts of the route. The king and court witness this procession, in which the military take part, from the balcony of the theatre of S. Carlo. Festa di S. Gennaro. — There are two festivals of S. Januarius, the first in May, and the second in September, as noticed in our description of the Cathedral, where the liquefaction of the blood is described. On these occasions the theatres and all other places of public amusement are closed. The Festa di S. Antonio Abate , for the blessing of the animals, is observed in Naples, as in Rome, on the 17th Janu- ary, and is continued on every succeed- ing Sunday until Lent. The animals are brought to the Ch. of S. Antonio, gaily caparisoned with ribbons, amulets, and other ornaments ; and after re- ceiving the benediction, are walked three times round the court of the ch. The ceremony is very popular with the Neapolitans, who show attachment and kindness to their animals. The Lottery. — The love of gambling in the lottery absorbs the thoughts of all classes of society, from the ranks of the higher nobility down to the ragged lazzarone. Many of the lower orders can read nothing but the figures of the lottery ticket, and the beggar invests m gambling the grani which he implores so earnestly from the stranger ; the numbers run from 1 to 90, five of which are drawn every Saturday after- noon, in the large hall of the Castel Capuano. Any sum, however small, may be played on any of these num- bers in combination not exceeding five, the value of the prize increas- ing with the increase of the figures. The favourite plan is to play on the occurrences of the day, which is ac- complished by means of a gambling dictionary, called La Smorfia, in which every word has its corresponding num- ber, so that there is no event of public or personal interest, be it a battle, a murder, a robbery, or a suicide, — no topic of domestic life, from an accouche- ment to a wedding, which may not be made the subject of play. This im- moral institution gives the Govern- ment a clear receipt of nearly 220,000?. a year ! CHURCHES. The churches of Naples, upwards of 300 in number, have received less attention from travellers than they de- serve. Many of them, though injured by earthquakes and disfigured by res- torations, especially during the Spanish rule in the 17th and 18tn cents., are remarkable for their architecture and their works of art. They contain a collection of mediaeval tombs not to be met with in any other city of Italy, and which not only interest us by their historical associations, but afford a study of contemporary art and cos- tume. The Cathedrae ( Cattedrale , Duomo), between the Strada dei Tribunali and the Strada dell’ Anticaglia, is built upon the site of two temples dedi- cated to Neptune and Apollo, from the ruins of which it probably derived its numerous columns of granite and ancient marbles. The present building, which has retained its original archi- tecture in its lofty towers, its aisles, and the arches of the nave and that of its tribune, dates from the time of Charles I. of Anjou, who commenced building it in 1272, from the designs of Masuccio I. It was continued by his son Charles, by means of a volun- tary tax by the people in 1298, and dedicated to the Virgin of the Assump- tion. It was not completed till 1316, NAPLES THE CATHEDRAL. 91 under his son Robert. In 1456 it was damaged by an earthquake, and was restored by Alphonso I., from the de- signs of the Donzelli, with the aid of the principal families in Naples, who built each a portion, and, as a memorial of the event, had their arms sculptured on the pillars of the building. The facade, destroyed by an earthquake in 1349, was rebuilt in 1407 from the designs of Bamboccio ; it was modern- ised in 1788 ; and the interior was en- tirely restored and repaved in 1837 at the expense of the late Archbishop Caracciolo. The interior consists of a Gothic nave and two aisles, sepa- rated by pilasters, to which are affixed some of the ancient granite col- umns above mentioned, supporting a series of pointed arches. In the 17 th cent, the Archbishop Inigo Caracciolo caused them to be covered with stucco, which was removed by the late Archbishop. In front of each pilaster is a half figure alto-relievo of some sainted bishop of Naples. The paintings on the roof of the nave are by Vincenzo da Forli, F. Imparato, and Santa- fede ; the latter was so popular an artist in his native city, that the people, in the revolt of Masaniello, spared a house to which they were on the point of set- ting fire, when they were told that it contained two rooms painted by him. The paintings on the walls of the tran- sept, representing saints and the An- nunciation, are by Luca Giordano , The S. Cyril and S. John Chrysostom are by Solimena. Over the great entrance are the Tombs of Charles I. of Anjou, of Charles Martel, King of Hun- gary, eldest son of Charles II., and of his wife, Clementia, daughter of Ro- dolph of Hapsburg. They were erected in 1599 by the Viceroy Olivares. The two large pictures over the side doors are by Vasari , who was brought from Rome in 1546 by Ranuccio Farnese, then Archbishop of Naples, to paint them for the doors of the organ. The one on the 1. door represents the patron saints of Naples, whose heads are por- traits of Paul III., of Alessandro, Ranuccio, Pier Luigi, and Ottavio Far- nese ; and of Tiberio Crispo and Asca- nio Sforza. The baptismal font, on the 1. of the entrance, is an antique vase of green basalt, sculptured with Bacchanalian emblems, masks, &c., in high relief. Continuing along the 1. aisle, in the second chapel is a picture of the Incredulity of St. Thomas by Marco da Siena, and a beautiful bas-relief of the Entomb- ment, . by Giovanni da Nola. In the chapel De’ Seripandi, 3rd in 1. aisle, is the large painting of the Assumption, by Perugino ; it formerly stood over the high altar : in the lower part are portraits of the Donatarii for whom it was executed. In the 1. transept is the sepulchral memorial of Andrew King of Hungary, husband of Joanna I., so barbarously murdured at Aversa ; and near it is the Tomb of Innocent IV., who died at Naples in 1254, erected in 1318 by the Archbishop Umberto di Montorio, from the designs of Pietro de ’ Stefani — it was restored and altered in the 16th cent. ; close to which is the sacristy, with numerous portraits of Archbps. of Naples. On the 1. of the high altar is the handsome Gothic cha- pel of the Capece Galeota family ; over the altar of which is an ancient picture in the Byzantine style, representing our Saviour between SS. Januarius and Athanasius. The tribune or high altar offers nothing of interest ; but beneath it, and entered by a double flight of marble steps, is the richly ornamented subterranean chapel, called the con- fessional of San Gennaro, built in 1497 by Cardinal Oliviero Carafa. The marble roof is supported by ten Ionic columns, seven of which are of cipol- lino. Under the high altar are de- posited the remains of St. Januarius, and near it is the kneeling statue of Car- dinal Carafa. Returning to the ch., on the rt. of the choir is the Tocco chapel, also in a handsome Gothic style : it contains the tomb of St. Asprenus, one of the early Bishops of Naples, the side walls being decorated with fres- coes of events in his life. The Minu- toli Chapel, opening out of the corner of the rt. transept, is an interesting monument of the 13th cent., illus- trating the revival of art in Naples. It was designed by Masuccio I., who also sculptured the Crucifix and the 92 NAPLES THE CATHEDRAL. statues of the Virgin and St. John. The paintings in the upper part illus- trating the Passion are by Tommaso de Stefani ; the lower ones, of mem- bers of the Minutoli family, by an un- known hand, are interesting for the costumes, but they all were unmerci- fully painted oyer some years ago. The altar is by Pietro de' Stefani , and the Tomb of Cardinal Minutolo over it by Bamboccio. The two tombs on either side, of Archbishops of this family, formerly stood in the adjoining transept, and are of the 14th and 15 th cents. This chapel is the scene of the sepulchral adventure of Boccaccio’s Andreuccio, the jockey of Perugia, who stole the ruby of the deceased Archbishop Minu- tolo. The rich Gothic canopy over the Archbishop’s chair, and at the ex- tremity of the nave, is a fine specimen of the sculpture of the 1 4th cent. ; the torse columns which support it are remarkable for their rich foliation, and the canopy for the elegant tracery of the arch, both of which, according to Professor Willis, have no parallel on the N. of the Alps. The Brancia chapel contains the fine tomb of Car- dinal Carbone by Bamboccio; and in the Caraccioli Pisquizi chapel is a large wooden crucifix, attributed to Masuc- cio I. The Basilica of Santa Bestituta is en- tered by a door opening out of the 1. aisle, and. is interesting as having been the ancient cathedral for the Greek ritual; like the chapel of St. Januarius, it is open to the public on Sunday in the forenoon. It is supposed to occupy the site of a Temple of Apollo, from which were probably derived the ancient Corinthian columns which support the nave, and the two hand- some fluted ones in white marble on each side of the tribune. Near the entrance are the tombs of the learned Mazzocchi, and of the eminent anti- quarian Canonico Jorio. The founda- tion, erroneously attributed to Con- stantine, dates from the middle of the 7th cent., but the whole ch. was re- stored at the end of the 17th cent., leaving, however, the pointed arches of the nave and the Gothic chapels of the rt. aisle. The chapel of Sta. Maria del Principio, on the 1. side of the ch., contains a very ancient mosaic restored in the 14th cent. ; it represents the Ma- donna in Byzantine costume, and is called “del Principio,” because it is said to be the first representation of the Vir- gin venerated in Naples. On the side walls are two curious bas-reliefs of the 8th cent., which formed part of the episcopal throne of Bishop Stefano ; each is divided into 15 compartments, one containing histories from the lives of SS. Januarius and Eustatius, the other of S. Joseph. The small cupola of the chapel of S. Giovanni in Fonte, formerly the baptistery of the ch., is covered with mosaics of the 13th cent. On the roof of the nave is a beautiful picture by Luca Giordano , represent- ing Santa Bestituta’ s body carried by Angels in a boat towards Ischia. Be- hind the high altar, in the choir, the picture of the Virgin with the Arch- angel Michael and Sta. Restituta, by Silvestro Buono, with its predella of stories of the saint, is a work of interest in the history of art. Opposite to the entrance to the Ba- silica of Sta. Restituta, in the rt. aisle of the cathedral, is the chapel of San Gennaro, called the Cappella del Tesoro. It was erected by the citizens in fulfil- ment of a vow made during the plague of 1 527 ; but the building was not com- menced till 1608. It was completed after 29 years, at an expense of 500,000 ducats. The design of the chapel was thrown open to the competition of all the artists of the time, and the one chosen was by the Theatine Grimaldi. It is considered a very able work. The form is that of a Greek cross: the magnificent gates, from the designs of C. Fonzaga, were executed by Biagio Monte and Soppa, occupied 45 years of their labour, and cost 32,000 ducats. The interior is rich in ornaments. It has 6 altars and 42 columns of broc- catello, with intermediate niches con- taining 1 9 bronze statues of saints, pro- tectors of Naples. The pictures in the different chapels, painted on copper, are masterpieces of Domenichino and Spagnoletto. By Domenichino there are 5 oil paintings and some frescoes. The paintings are — 1. The Tomb of San NAPLES SAN GENNARO. Gennaro, with the sick waiting to be cured. 2. The Martyrdom of the Saint (injured). 3. The Miracle of the Tomb restoring a young man to life, as the corpse is carried past in the funeral pro- cession. 4. The woman curing the sick and deformed with the holy oil from the lamp hanging before his tomb. 5. The saint curing a demo- niac ; this picture was finished by Spagnoletto. The painting by Spa- gnoletto in the chapel on the rt. hand represents the saint coming out of a fiery furnace. It is very fine and powerful in its general effect. All these paintings, which had been mi- serably retouched by Andres, a Ger- man, in the 17th cent., were restored in 1840 by Andrea della Volpe. The frescoes of the roof, the lunettes, & c., are also by Domenichino. That over the door of the Tesoro commemorates the eruption of Vesuvius of 1G31. The three frescoes within the railing of the altar represent — 1. San Gennaro before Timotheus, whom he restores to sight, and by whose order he suffers death. 2. His exposure to lions who refuse to devour him. 3. His torture by being suspended to a tree, &c. The cupola was begun by Domenichino , but he was obliged to relinquish it to escape the persecutions of the Neapolitan artists. It was then intrusted to Lanfranco, who refused to execute it, unless all the work of his great predecessor was effaced. Guido was also sent for to decorate this building, but he was very shortly compelled to quit the city to escape the threats of Spagnoletto and of Corenzio, who tried to poison him. The sacristy of the Tesoro con- tains a painting by Stanzioni, which represents the saint curing a demoniac ; some paintings by Giordano ; a rich col- lection of vestments and sacred ves- sels; the silver bust of San Gennaro made for Charles II. of Anjou in 1306, and covered with the most precious gifts from the generosity of different sovereigns, and amongst others a parure in emeralds and diamonds by Joseph Buonaparte during his short reign over this kingdom ; 3 silver statues and ! 45 busts of the saints protectors of Naples ; and a beautiful pencil draw- i 93 ing by Domenichino of San Gennaro ’s martyrdom. In a tabernacle behind the high altar are preserved the two phials containing the Blood of S. Januarius. The lique- faction takes place twice in the year, and is each time repeated for eight successive days. The first liquefaction commences on the Saturday which pre- cedes the first Sunday in May, in the ch. of S. Chiara, after which the blood is reconveyed to the cathedral, where the liquefaction is repeated during the seven following days. The second festival commences in the cathedral on the 19th of September, and continues in it to the 26th, always including the Sunday . following the 16 th, which is the saint’s day. When S. Januarius, according to the tradition, was exposed to be devoured by lions in the amphi- theatre of Pozzuoli, the animals pros- trated themselves before him and be- came tame. This miracle is said to have converted so many to Christianity, that Dracontius, the proconsul of Cam- pania under Diocletian, or his lieute- nant Timotheus, ordered the saint to be decapitated. The sentence was executed at the Solfatara, a.d. 305. The body was buried at Pozzuoli until the time of Constantine, when it was removed to Naples by S. Severus, the bishop, and deposited in the ch. of S. Gennaro extra Mcenia. At the time of this re- moval, the woman, who is said to have collected the blood at the period of the martyrdom, took it in two bottles to S. Severus, in whose hands it is said to have immediately melted. There is no mention of any liquefaction from this 4 time down to the 11th cent., but the tradition asserts that the bottles were concealed during the interval. In the 9th cent., Sicon, Prince of Benevento, removed the body to that city, of which the saint had been bishop. In the time of Frederick II. it was removed to the Abbey of Monte Yergine, where it was forgotten, and it was only rediscovered on removing the high altar in 1480. In 1497 it was brought back to Naples with great solemnity, and deposited in the cathedral. The tabernacle which contains the phials is secured by two locks, one key being kept by the mu- 94 NAPLES — FESTIVAL OF THE LIQUEFACTION. nicipal authorities, the other by the archbishop. The Liquefaction is the greatest re- ligious festival in the capital, and such is the importance attached to it by the Neapolitans, that all the con- querors of the city have considered it necessary to respect it. M. Valery, who witnessed it in September 1826, gives the following description of the proceedings : — “ Some time before the ceremony, a number of women of the lower orders placed themselves near the balustrade as a place of honour; some old faces among them were singularly character- istic. These women are called the re- lations of S. Januarius; they pretend to be of his family, and when the saint delays the liquefaction too long, they even think themselves privileged to waive all show of respect and to abuse him. They repeat in a hoarse voice Paternosters, Aves, Credos ; were it not in a chapel, no one would have ima- gined their horrid clamour to be prayers, and for a moment I thought the scolding had begun. About ten o’clock the phials were taken out of the tabernacle ; one was like a smelling- bottle, but contained only a mere stain of blood; the other is rather larger; both of them are under glass in a case. They were shown to the persons ad- mitted within the balustrade. . . . The miracle was complete at noon, as it had been foretold me, and the roar of cannon announced the happy news.” It is curious to contrast this account with the description of the ceremony by the Earl of Perth, Lord Chancellor of Scotland at the fall of the Stuarts, in whose cause he was one of the most distinguished exiles at the close of the 17th cent. Lord Perth’s letters, written to his sister, the Countess of Errol, are preserved at Drummond Castle, and have been published by the Camden Society. In one of them, dated from Rome, 1st February, 1696, is the follow- ing account : — “ The 20th of January we were in- vited to goe see Saint Gennaro’s ch., and the reliques were to be shown me, a favour none under sovereign princes has had these many years. They are kept in a large place in the wall with an iron door to it plated over with sil- ver ; it has two strong locks, one key is kept by the Cardinal-archbishop, and the other by the Senate (which is composed of six seggie, or seats, for so they call the councells), five of nobility, and one of the commons, who chuse two elects. . . Every one of the six rule- ing governors of the Senate (or the deputies of the seggie) has a key to the great iron chest where the key of the armoire of the relicks lyes ; so that all the six must agree to let them be seen, except the two ordinary times in the year when they stand exposed eight days, and the senate and bishop must both agree, for without both concurr only one lock can be opened. They had got the bishop’s consent for me, but how to gett all the deputies of the nobility and the elect of the people to concurr was the difficulty ; however, my friends gott the deputies to resolve to meet ; three mett, but one said, ‘ I have a friend a dying, upon whom depends my fortune ; he has called me at such an hour, it is now so near ap- proaching that I hope the stranger prince (for so they call all the peers of Brittain) will forgive me if I go away.’ They who were there begged him to stay but a moment (for they must be all together), but he could not delay. So going down he mett the other three deputies below, and said that he saw God and his saint had a mind I should see the miracle, and so he returned, and I gott an invitation to go to ch. The relicks are exposed in a noble chap ell upon the Epistle side of the ch., lyned with marble, the cupola richly painted, as is all that is not marble of the walls. Ten curious sta- tues of saints, patrons of the town, done at full length, bigger than the naturall, of coppar, stand round the chappell high from the floors, and statues, to the knees of silver, just as big, of the same saints, stand below them. The face of the altar is of massy silver cutt in statues of mezzo-relievo, or rising quite out from the front, with the history of Cardinal Caraffa’s bring- ing back the Saint’s head to Naples. The musick was excellent, and all the NAPI.ES — FESTIVAL OF THE LIQUEFACTION. 95 dukes and princes who were deputies must be present. They placed me in the first place, gave me that title they gave the Vice-Roy (Excelenza), and used me with all possible respect. The first thing was done was, the archbishop- cardinal, his viccar general, in presence of a nottary and witnesses, opened his lock ; then the Duca de Fiumaria, in name of all the princes present, opened the city’s lock, and the old thesaurer of the ch. (a man past eighty) stept up upon a ladder covered with crimson velvet and made like a staire, and first took out the Saint’s head, put a rich mitre upon it, an archbishop’s mantle about the shoulders of the statue (for the head is in the statue of the saint), and a rich collar of diamonds with a large cross about its neck. Then he went back and took out the blood, after haveing placed the head upon the Gos- pele side of the altar. It is in a glass, flatt and round like the old-fashioned vinegar-glasses that were double, but it is but single. The blood was just like a piece of pitch clotted and hard in the glass. They brought us the glass to look upon, to kiss, and to consider be- fore it was brought near unto the head. They then placed it upon the other end of the altar, called the Epistle side, and placed it in a rich chasse of silver gilt, putting the glass so in the middle as that we could see through it, and then begun the first mass : at the end the old thesaurer came, took out the glass, moved it to and fro, but no liquefaction: i thus we past the second likeways, only | the thesaurer sent the abbat Pignatelli, the Pope’s nearest cousin, to bid me take courage, for he saw I begun to be | somewhat troubled, not so much for my own disappointment, but because the miracle never faills but some grievous j| affliction comes upon the city and king- | dom, and I began to reflect that I I haveing procured the favour of seeing I the relicks, and the miracle failling, they might be offended at me, though very unjustly. After the third mass no j change appeared but that which had I made the thesaurer send me word to [I take courage, viz. the blood begune to ijl grow of a true sanguine collour : but 5 when the nobles and all the people saw the fourth mass past the Gospell and no change, you would have heard nothing but weeping and lamenting, and all crying, ‘ Mercy, good Lord ! pitty your poor supplicants ; Holy Saint Gennaro, our glorious patron ! pray for us that our blessed Saviour would not be angry with us !’ It would have moved a heart of stone to have seen the countenances of all, both clergy and people, such a consternation appeared as if they had all been already undone. For my part, at sea, at receiving the blessed sacrament in my sickness when I thought to ex- pire, I never prayed with more fervency than I did to obtain of our Lord the favour of the blood’s liquefaction, and God is witness that I prayed that our Lord would give me this argument towards the conversion of my poor sister, that I might say I had seen a miracle, which her teachers say are ceased. The fourth mass ended with- out our haveing the consolation we were praying for, and then all begun to be in despair of succeeding, except a very few, who still continued praying with all imaginary fervour. You may judge that sitting three and a half hours on the cold marble had made my knees pretty sore ; but I declare I felt no ex- terior pain, so fixed were my thoughts upon the desire of being heard in my prayers. About the elevation in time of the fifth mass, the old thesaurer, who was at some distance looking upon the glass, cry’d out, ‘ Gloria Patri et Filio et Spiritui Sancto,’ and run to the glass, and brought it to me. The blood had liquified so naturally as to the colour and consistency that no blood from a vein could appear more lively. I took the relick in my arms, and with tears of joy kissed it a thousand times, and gave God thanks for the favour with all the fervour that a heart longing with expectation, and full of pleasure for being heard, could offer up: and indeed, if I could as clearly describe to you Avhat I felt, as I am sure that it was something more than ordinary, I needed no other argument to make you fly into the bosome of our dearest mother, the Church, which teaches us (what I saw) that God is wonderfull in his saints. The whole people called out to heaven 96 NAPLES — CHURCHES. with acclamations of praise to God, who had taken pitty of them ; and they were so pleased with me for haveing said betwixt the masses that 1 was only grieved for the city, and not troubled at my not being so privileged as to see the miracle, that the very commonest sort of the people smiled to me as I passed along the streets. I heard the sixth mass in thanksgiving. And now I have described to you one of the hapiest forenoons of my life, the re- flection of the which I hope shall never leave me, and I hope it may one day be a morning of benediction to you too ; but this must be God’s work. The Principe Palo, a man of principal quality, came to me at the end of the sixth mass, and in name of all the nobility, gave me the saint’s picture, stamp’d on satine, and a silver lace about it. It is an admirable thing to see blood, shed upwards of one thou- sand three hundred years ago, liquify at the approach to the head. The Roman lady who had gathered it from off the ground with a sponge, had in squeesing of it into the glass lett a bitt of straw fall in too, which one sees in the blood to this very day.” The door of the right aisle opens upon the small Piazza di S. Gennaro, in the centre of which stands the Column , erected in 1660, from the de- signs of Fansaga, supporting a bronze statue of the saint by Finelli. Adjoining the Cathedral is the ex- tensive Archiepiscopal Palace , the front of which is on the Largo Donnaregina. It was founded in the 13th cent, from the designs of Maglione , and entirely rebuilt in 1647, by Cardinal Filomarino. In the great hall is an ancient Neapoli- tan calendar, 23 palmi in length, and 3 in height, found last cent, in the walls of S. Giovanni Maggiore. S. Agnello Maggiore , commonly called S. Agnello a Capo-Napoli, from its stand- ing upon one of the highest points of the old city, in the Largo S. Agnello, not far from the Museo Borbonico, was founded in 1517, on a small chapel which dated from the 6th cent. : it has been so altered as to have lost almost every trace of its original Gothic archi- tecture. The St. Jerome, in mezzo re- lievo, in the 1. transept, the recumbent statues on the tombs of the Poderico family, by one of whom the present ch. was erected, and the handsome altar and fine statue of Santa Dorothea, in rt. transept, are by Giovanni da Nola. I The handsome high altar erected over the grave of the saint, with its bas-re- liefs of the Passion below, and the still finer one of the Virgin surrounded by Angels, with SS. Agnellus and Eusebius kneeling before her, is a good work of Santacroce. The bas-relief of the Ma- donna and Child and the Souls in Pur- gatory, in the Lettieri chapel, 5th on rt., is by Domenico d’ Auria. In the opposite chapel is a Greek picture of ' the Virgin, called 8. Maria intercede, 1 supposed to be of the time of Justinian ; the only ancient part of it is the head : it is supposed to have been painted by Tauro in the 6th centy. The pic- ture of S. Carlo by Caracciolo, in the 2nd chapel on rt., is mentioned by Lanzi as one of the happiest imitations of Annibale Caracci. The sarcophagus of Marini the poet, now in S. Domenico Maggiore, was formerly in the cloisters adjoining this ch. 8. Agostino degli Scalzi, in the Salita S. Raffaele, built in 1600, contains two pictures by Santafede , the S. Francesco di Paola, and the Madonna by Marco j Calabrese ; the Annunciation and the i Visitation by Giacomo del Po ; the St. Thomas of Villanova and the St. Nicholas of Tolentino by Giordano. A|i The pulpit is much admired. S. Agostino della Zecca , in the Via of the same name, a spacious ch. with a lofty and imposing tower, founded by Charles I., and rebuilt from the de- signs of Picchetti in the 17th cent. In the third chapel on the rt. is the Tomb of Francesco Coppola , the celebrat- ed Count of Sarno, who with Antonello Petrucci plotted the famous “Conspi- racy of the Barons ” against Ferdinand J I. of Aragon, by whom both of them had been loaded with riches and the highest honours of the state. Some time after the insurrection had been partly subdued, and its chiefs had sur- rendered on the faith of a treaty gua- ranteed by Spain and the Pope, the Count of Sarno and Petrucci were ] NAPLES — SS. AP03T0LI. 97 arrested in the hall (now the Sala d’Armi) in the Castel Nuovo, whilst summoned there for the intended mar- riage of the count’s eldest son to the daughter of the Duke of Amalfi, the king’s son-in-law. They were publicly beheaded in front of the castle, in 1487, a few months after Petrucci’s sons, imprisoned at the same time, had been beheaded in the Largo del Mercato. S. Angelo a Segno, a small ch. in the Strada de’ Tribunali, contains a paint- ing of St. Michael, by Angiolillo Rocca- dirame, a pupil of Zingaro. S. Angelo a Nilo, in the Strada Nilo, built in 1385, by Card. Brancaccio, contains, on the rt. of the high altar, his Tomb, erected by order of his friend and executor Cosmo de’ Medici. It was the joint work of Donatello and Michelozzo, who has thus described it in a letter preserved by Gaye, in the “Carteggio d’ Artist! — “We have a tomb in hand for Naples, intended for Messer Rinaldo, Cardinal de Brancacci, of Naples. We are to have 850 florins for this tomb, but have to finish and take it to Naples at our own expense ; they are now working on it at Pisa.” It consists of a sarcophagus supported on the heads of three figures in full relief; on the sarcophagus is a bas- relief of the Assumption, by Donatello, remarkable for graceful beauty and expression. Opposite to this fine tomb is that of another Card. Brancaccio, in the worst style of the 17 th centy., by the two Ghettis. The fresco in the lunette over the principal door of the church is by Colantonio del Fiore , but being outside, and covered with glass, can scarcely be seen. The picture of St. Michael, at the high altar, is by Marco da Siena. Those of St. Mi- chael and St. Andrew in the sa- cristy are by Tommaso de’ Stefani, or, according to others, by Angiolillo Roccadirame, and are interesting as examples of art in the middle of the 15th centy. The side door opening into the Strada Nilo is decorated with arabesque reliefs, and has over it a good statue of St. Michael. The Bran- caccio Library, founded as a part of this establishment in 1675, is descriqed in our account of the Libraries. IS. Italy.-] S. Antonio Abate , near the Albergo de’ Poveri, contains a work of very great interest in the history of art, a picture of St. Anthony and two angels, painted on a gold ground, with two lateral compartments, each containing two saints, by Niccola del Fiore, accord- ing to the inscription at its bottom, Nicholaus Thomasi de Flore pictor, 1371. The style of this painting bears a close resemblance to that of Giotto. SS. Apostoli, in the Largo SS. Apo- stoli, a fine ch. when in better repair than at present, is said to have been founded by Constantine on the ruins of a Temple of Mercury ; it was rebuilt in 1626 from the designs of Grimaldi. It is rich in frescoes and decorations, all much faded, and in want of restoration. The ceiling of the nave and choir, the four Evangelists at the angles of the cu- pola, the gallery of the choir, &c., are by Lanfranco ; the paintings of the cupola and the Fall of Lucifer by Benasca ; the lunettes of the nave by Solimena ; the two paintings of the transept by Luca Giordano. Over the door is the large fresco of the Pool of Bethesda, by Lanfranco, with the architectural de- tails by Viviani. The Filomarino Chapel, in the 1. transept, erected in white mar- ble, from the designs of Borromini, con- tains a bas-relief of a Concert of Chil - dren, one of the most graceful works of Fiammingo. The Lions which sup- port the altar are by Finelli. The mosaics are copies of paintings by Guido, executed by Gio. Battista Calandra ; the originals were presented by Cardinal Filomarino to Philip IV. of Spain, the principal one being the Annunciation. The mosaic portraits of the Cardinal and his brother Scipio are copies of Pietro da Cortona and Valentino bv the same Calandra. In the Pignatelli Chapel, in the opposite transept, and entirely similar to the Filomarino, the four Virtues round the Immacolata are by Solimena, and a bas-relief repre- senting a Concert of Youths by Botti- glieri. The fourth chapel on the 1. contains a St. Michael by Marco da Siena, and some paintings by Benasca . Beneath the ch. is a Cemetery, con- taining the Tomb of Marini the Poet, who died in 1625, with an inscription. F 98 NAPLES — STA. CHIARA. This cemetery, which was painted by Zanfranco, was formerly the scene of a strange festival on the day following that of All Saints. The bodies of the deceased members of a confraternita , who subscribed for the privilege of being buried in a peculiar earth which prevents decomposition, were disinterred on that day and exposed to public view in the dresses which they wore when living. On this occasion the' 1 cemetery was decorated with flowers and evergreens ; the bodies were decked out in all their finery, with flowers in their hands ; and a long inscription over each corpse recorded the name, age, and particulars of death. The present Archbishop of Naples put an end to this disgusting exhibition some years ago. A’ Ascensione, in the Largo Ascen- sione a Chiaia, rebuilt in 1622 from the designs of Fansaga, contains a S. Anna, and a beautiful painting of S. Michael, both by L. Giordano. S. Brigida , in the Strada Santa Brigida, built in 1610 by Dona Juana Queveda, a Spanish lady, contains the Tomb of Luca Giordano, who was buried here in 1705, before the chapel of St. Nicholas, on the rt. of the high altar. The frescoes of the cupola, painted by him a few years before his death, although executed with great rapidity, and as a trial of skill against his competitor Francesco di Maria, are among his best works. The picture of St. Nicholas in the chapel of the saint is also by Giordano , and is one of his many imitations of Paolo Veronese. S. Carlo all 3 Arena, in the Strada Foria, built in 1602 and afterwards enlarged from the designs of Giuseppe Nuvolo, had gone to ruin, and the monastery annexed to it hacl been changed into barracks. When the cholera raged at Naples in 1836 the municipality made a vow of restoring this ch. The resto- ration was executed by Francesco de Cesare. The frescoes of the cupola and the picture of S. Giovanni da Calasanzio are by Gennaro Maldarelli, and the S. Francesco di Paola by Michele de Napoli. The painting of S. Carlo administering the sacrament to the dying from the plague by Giuseppe Mancinelli is one of the finest works of the modern Neapolitan school. The municipality were so much pleased with it that they gave the artist double the price agreed upon. On the high altar is a fine marble crucifix by Michelangelo Naccarino, which shad re- mained long forgotten in a dark corner in the ch. of Lo Spirito Santo. S. Caterina a Formello, near the Porta Capuana, was rebuilt in 1523 on the designs of Antonio Fiorentino. Its cupola was the first in Naples, erected in imitation of Brunelleschi’s at Flo- rence. The bones of the generals slain at the siege of Otranto in 1481 were buried in this ch. It contains a paint- ing of the Virgin and St. Thomas Aquinas by Francesco Curia, the Epi- phany by Silvestro Buono, and the Con- version of St. Paul by Marco da Siena . The tombs of the family of Spinelli di Cariati are by the Milanese sculptors Scilla and Giannetto. Santa Chiara, in the Strada Trinit 3: Maggiore, founded by Kobert the Wise in 1310, was begun in the Gothic style by a foreign architect, who left his work so incomplete that it was almost rebuilt about eight years after- wards by Masuccio II. The interior, having no aisles, presents the appear- ance of a large and splendid hall rather than that of a ch., and in its original state must have appeared much vaster, before the present ranges of chapels and the galleries above encroached on its width. The elaborate ornaments with which the bad taste of the last centy. has overloaded it cost 100,000 ducats. By the advice of Boccaccio, Eobert brought Giotto from Florence and commissioned him to cover the in- terior with frescoes. The subjects of these paintings were taken from the Old and New Testaments: those from the Apocalypse were said to have been treated in accordance with the suggestions of Dante. Whatever may have been their merits, they were de- stroyed in the 18th cent, by a Spanish magistrate called Barionuovo, who or- dered all Giotto’s paintings to be white- washed over, saying that they gave to the ch. a dark and melancholy look. Nothing but a Madonna, called the Madonna delle Grazie, in one of the NAPLES — STA. CHIARA. 99 chapels on the L, escaped this act of Vandalism. On the 1. of the prin- cipal entrance is the tomb of Onofrio di Penna, the secretary of king La- dislaus, by Bamboccio, which has been converted into an altar, over which there is a fresco of the Madonna throned, and, underneath, a picture of the Tri- nity, very interesting works of Francesco , son of Maestro Simone, the friend of Giotto. The first picture on the roof of the ch., the large one in the middle, representing David playing the harp before the ark, and the three round pictures on the roof over the choir, are by S. Conca. The S. Chiara putting the Saracens to flight, on the roof of the nave, is by Francesco di Mura ; the third large fresco of the roof and the Four Doctors of the Church by the side of it are by Bonito. The Four Virtues, in the angles of the altars, are by Conca. The Holy Sacrament at the High Altar, and the picture over the door, representing King Robert assisting at the building of the ch., are by Francesco di Mura. The Sanfelice Chapel, 8th on 1., contains a picture of the Crucifixion by Lan- franco , and an ancient Sarcophagus orna- mented with a bas-relief of the mar- riage of Protesilaus and Laodamia, which serves as the Tomb of Cesare Sanfelice, Duke of Rodi. The Balzo Chapel contains the Tombs of the family of that name, with some fine bas-reliefs ; and the Cito Chapel has some sculp- ture by Sammartino . But the chief in- terest of the ch. is derived from its Royal Tombs, which are valuable monuments for the history of sculpture. Behind,the high altar is the magnificent Gothic Tomb of King Robert the Wise, designed during the monarch’s lifetime by Masuccio II., but finished in 1350. A few days before his death, in 1343, Robert assumed the habit of the Franciscan order : he is here, therefore, represented in his double character as a king and a monk ; as the one he is seated above, dressed in his royal robes; in the other he is lying on his sarcophagus in the gown of a Franciscan, but bearing his crown. The inscription on the tomb — Cernite Pobertum regem virtute refertum — is at- tributed to Petrarch. This beautiful monument is barbarously hidden behind the unseemly high altar of the last centy., and can only be seen by ascend- ing to the back of the latter by means of a ladder. On the rt. side of this is the very beautiful Gothic Tomb of Charles the Illustrious, Duke of Calabria, the eldest son of Robert, and who survived him. On a bas- relief in front of the sarcophagus on which the young prince reclines in his royal robes covered with fleurs-de lis, he is represented sitting in state in the midst of the great officers and barons of the kingdom, his feet resting on what have been supposed to represent a wolf drinking with the lamb at the same fountain, to typify the peace which might have been expected from his reign, although both animals appear to belong to the same species. ■ This tomb is also the work of Masuccio II., and is engraved by Cicognara as a fine example of the sculpture of the 14th cent. The next is a monument supposed to of Mary of Valois, the wife of Charles the Illustrious. It also consists of an elaborate Gothic canopy, the sepulchral urn being supported by figures of Abundance, and resting on lions couchant. This tomb has often been described as that of her daughter Queen Joanna I., and an inscription given, which does not exist on the monument. Queen Joanna, according to contemporary historians, was pri- vately buried in an unknown corner of the ch. : Ossa Neapolim reportata, nullo exequiarum, neque sepulcri ho- nors, in aede divae Clarae, et ignoto loco sita sunt. In the opposite transept are the tombs — 1st, of her infant daughter Mary, ob. 1343; 2nd, of her second daughter Mary, Empress of Constantinople and Duchess of Du- razzo, sister of Joanna I., and the wife of three husbands, — Charles I., Duke of Durazzo, Roberto del Balzo, Conte di Avellino, and Philip of Taranto, titu- lar Emperor of Constantinople. Mary is represented in her imperial robes, with a crown on her head. 3rd, of Agnese and dementia, two of the four daughters of Mary of Durazzo by her first husband Charles. Agnese, like her mother, is mentioned in the in- i F 2 100 NAPLES S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE. scription as Empress of Constantinople, having married, after the death of her first husband (Can della Scala), Gia- como del Balzo, Principe di Taranto, titular Emperor of Constantinople. Clementia died unmarried. Near the door on the 1. side of the ch. is the small, but most elegant, monu- ment of Antonia Gaudino, by Gio- vanni da Nola , with a graceful inscrip- tion written by Antonio Epicuro, the poet, commemorating her death at the age of 14, on the very day ap- pointed for her nuptials. On the other ;side of the door is the altar of the Madonna delle Grazie, whose picture is ascribed to Giotto. On the wall of the next chapel is the tomb of Rai- jjondo Cabano, who rose from being ■a Moorish slave to the post of High -Seneschal of the kingdom under Jo- anna I., and was a chief actor in the murder of her husband. The chapel -on the rt. of the high altar, over the door of which is a fleur-de-lis, is the burial-place of the reigning royal fa- mily. It contains the Tombs of Prince Philip, eldest son, and of five other •children of Charles III. The inscrip- tions were written by Mazzocchi. The Tomb of Prince Philip is by Sanmar tino. On each side of the high altar are two handsome torse marble columns which serve as candelabras. The pulpit, a work of the 13th cent., has some strange reliefs on its front and sides of scenes of martyrdoms ; the bas-reliefs in front of the gallery over the entrance, and which support the organ, deserve examination ; they represent the history and martyrdom of St. Catharine of Alex- andria ; though rudely executed, they are believed to have exercised an influence in forming the taste of the early Neapolitan painters. There are several ancient sepulchral monu- ments in the chapels of Sta. Chiara, both interesting from the persons whose memory they perpetuate and as works of art. The Refectory of the Convent has a large fresco attri- buted to Maestro Simone , in which the Virgin is presenting to the Saviour, King Robert, his son Charles, his second Queen Sancia, Louis of Anjou, and other members of the family. Of the fine Gothic facade the central door and a circular window above alone remain. The Campanile of Sta. Chiara is one of the most successful works of Masuccio II, or, according to others, of his pupil Giacomo de Sanctis, and is classed among the finest specimens of archi- tecture after the Revival. It was ori- ginally intended to consist of five stories, each illustrative of one of the five orders : 1 . the Tuscan ; 2. the Doric ; 3. the Ionic ; 4. the Corinthian ; 5. the Composite ; the death of King Robert left it unfinished at the second, which was added in the 15th, and the Ionic in the early part of the 17th cent. In Masaniello’s insurrection in 1647, this Campanile was seized and fortified by the Spanish troops against the populace, who had fortified the Della Rocca Palace opposite. CroceUe, in the Chiatamone, so called from having originally been the Ch. of the Crociferi, is also called S. Maria a Cappella. It contains a monument to the Rev. J. C. Eustace, author of the ‘ Classical Tour,’ with an inscription in Latin verse by the Abate Campbell. S. Domenico Maggiore, in the Largo S. Domenico, founded in 1285 by Charles II. from the designs of Masuccio I., in spite of the alterations made by Novello in the 15th, and by Vac- caro and other architects in the 17th and 18th centuries, is still a noble edifice in the Gothic style. It is rich in works of art which, like the ch. itself, carry us back to the middle ages. Of late years, 1850-53, it has undergone an extensive restoration and ornamentation, and at present is one of the most magnificent of the sacred edi- fices of Naples : it consists of a fine nave and side aisles, out of which open 7 chapels on either side. The Gothic arches and pilasters have been re-gilt and covered with stucco ; the flat roof, of the 18th centy., is out of keeping with the rest of the building ; over the arches are paintings of Saints of the Order of St. Dominick ; the tran- septs are short ; and although the tri- bune retains its Gothic character, it has been spoiled by placing the large organ at the extremity of its choir. Commencing on the rt., the first chapel is dedicated to St. Martin, now belonging NAPLES S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE. 101 to the Saluzzo family, originally to the Carafas : the arch over the entrance is handsomely decorated with arabesques and military emblems ; the picture of the Virgin with SS. Dominick and Martin, over the altar, is by Andrea da Salerno ; the unseemly monument of a General Saluzzo is in the worst taste of the age we live in. The Madonna in the second chapel is by A. Franco ; the S. Dominick and Magdalen on either side are by Stefanone ; the fine tomb of Archbishop Brancaccio,to whose family this and the next chapel belonged, is of 1341. The 3rd chapel is covered with frescoes by Agnolo Franco , repre- senting the Crucifixion, the Supper of Emmaus, the Resurrection, and St. John the Evangelist. The 4th or Capece chapel contains a good altarpiece of the Crucifixion by Girolamo Capece. The 5th has a painting of St. Charles over the altar; and on the side walls, 2 of the Baptism in the Jordan and of the As- cension, by Andrea da Salerno. Follows the Dentice chapel, only remarkable for the tomb of Dialto da Raone, who died in 1338. The 7th chapel, or of the Crucifix, forms a ch. in itself, as it con- sists of several chapels : it has many good sepulchral monuments. Over the prin- cipal altar is the picture, by Tommaso de ’ Stef ani, of the crucifix which is said to have spoken to St. Thomas Aquinas when composing his Summa Theologian. The crucifix is said to have exclaimed, “ Bene scripsisti de me, Thoma ; quam ergo mercedem recipiesV’ to which the saint replied, “ Non aliam nisi te.” In front of the altar is a bas-relief in the most Berninesque style, representing that miraculous conversation ; on each side of the altar are pictures of Christ bearing the Cross, by Gian Vincenzo Corso, and a Deposition, attributed to lo Zingaro or to Albert Durer. The tomb on the 1. of this altar, of Fran- cesco Carafa, is a fine work of Agnello del Fiore ; that opposite, of another member of the same family who died in 1470, was commenced by the same artist, but finished by Giovanni da Nola. In the small chapel on 1. of the prin- cipal altar is a good tomb of Ettore Carafa, Count of Ruvo, covered with military emblems and arabesques ; in the adjoining one a fresco of the Vir- gin, by a painter of the early Nea- politan school ; and in that next the entrance from the nave, the painting of the Madonna della Rosa, attributed to Maestro Simone : on the opposite side, amongst several sepulchral monu- ments, is the fine tomb of Conte Buc- chianico, and of his wife Catarinella Orsini, one of the most remarkable works of Agnello del Fiore. The 8th chapel, which forms the entrance to the Sacristy, and is dedicated to S. Thomas Aquinas, has a good altarpiece of the patron Saint by Luca Giordano. The fine Gothic tombs of members of the Aquino family date from the middle of the 14th centy. : above that (on the rt.) of a Countess of Terranuova, with its beautiful recumbent statue, is the earliest painting of Maestro Simone, re- presenting the Virgin and Child upon a gold ground. The Sacristy, richly paved in marble, contains the presses made of the roots of trees, the roof painted in fresco by Solimena , and a fine picture of the Annunciation by an un- known hand. But it is chiefly cele- brated for 45 large wooden chests covered with crimson velvet, among which are ten of the Princes and Princesses of the Aragonese dy- nasty. Most of them have no inscrip- tion. The bodies which at present can be identified are those of Fer- dinand I. ; Ferdinand II. ; his aunt and queen Joanna, daughter of Ferdi- nand I.; Isabella, daughter of Alfonso II., the wife of Gian Galeazzo Sforza, Duke of Milan ; Mary, wife of the Marchese del Vasto ; Cardinal Louis Moncada d’Aragona, Duke ofMont- alto ; Maria della Cerda, Duchess of Montalto, & c. The chest which con- tained the remains of Alfonso I. of Aragon is still here with its inscription, but the body was removed to Spain in 1666 by the viceroy Don Pedro d’Aragon. In another chest is pre- served and shown to the curious, still dressed in Spanish costume, what was considered to be the body of Antonello Petrucci, who, born in humble life at Teano, rose by his talents to be secre- tary of Ferdinand I., and joined the “Conspiracy of the Barons ” (page 96), 102 NAPLES — S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE. but which has been lately proved to be that of his son Giovanni Antonio Pe- trucci, Count of Policastro, who was executed a few months before his father. In another chest is the body of Fer- dinando Francesco d\ Avalos, the celebrated Marquis of Pescara, one of the heroes of the battle of Ravenna, and one of the conquerors of Francis I. at the siege of Pavia. He died of his wounds at Milan in his 36th year. Over his tomb hang his portrait, a banner, and his sword. He was the husband of the no less celebrated Vittoria Colonna, who retired to Ischia at his death, and there sung his achievements in verses which ob- tained for her the title of divine. Near these mortuary chests are three of the wife and children of Count Agar de Mosbourg, Minister of Finance under Murat. In the Tesoro adjoining the Sacristy was preserved, in a silver case, the heart of Charles II. of An- jou ; it was stolen with the silver case which contained it on the suppression of the convent by the French. Entering the rt. transept is a good bas-relief ot St. Jerome; and beyond the chapel of St. Hyacinth opening out of it, the fine monument of Galeazzo Pandone by Giov. da Nola, the bust of the deceased, the arabesques and angels on which are very beautiful. High up in the wall of this transept is the tomb of Bertrando del Balzo, attributed to Masuccio IT. A door leads from this transept into what once formed a part of the primitive ch., and now a passage to one of the side entrances ; here are ranged several tombs, the most remarkable of which being that of Porzia Capece, the wife of Bernardino Rota, by Giov. da Nola. Of the 2 chapels opening from this pas- sage, the first, dedicated to St. Dominick, has over the altar a painting in 3 com- partments ; the central one, of the patron Saint, is said to be his portrait, brought here by the first members of his order, 10 years after his death ; on each side are figures of saints, and upon the wall on the 1. the Madonna delle Grazie, with St. John the Baptist and St. Antonio, by Agnolo Franco. There are some good tombs of the 14th centy. lately removed here from other parts of the ch. In the next chapel is a triptych over the altar, of the Virgin, Child, and Saints, of the early Neapolitan school, and some monu- ments of the 17th centy. The only ob- jects of any interest in the chapels open- ing out of the rt. transept are 2 pictures on each side of the altar of S. Domenico Soriano (on the rt. of the choir), repre- senting S. Catherine and Mary Magda- len, by the brothers Donzelli; in which have been introduced the portraits of Alfonso I. and of the celebrated Lucre- zia d’Alagni. The high altar is a mag- nificent specimen of Florentine mosaic work, erected in 1652, from the designs of Cosimo Fanzaga , with 2 seats on either side, and 2 fine columns of verde antico supporting candelabras. There is nothing of peculiar interest in the 4 chapels opening out of the 1. tran- sept, if we except the copy by L. Gior- dano of the Annunciation by Titian in the Pignatelli chapel, under a hand- some cinquecento arch ; the original painting was carried off to Spain by the Viceroy d’Aragona. Near this chapel is a second bas-relief of St. Jerome by Agnello del Fiore. The tomb built into the wall of this transept, above the Pigna- telli chapel, is that of Giovanni di Du- razzo and of Philip Prince of Taranto, who died in 1332-35, sons of King Charles d’ Anjou II., with a long inscrip- tion in leonine verses. Entering from here the 1. aisle, the first (or 8th reckon- ing from the principal entrance), dedi- cated to St. Maria della Neve, has over its altar a beautiful alto-relievo, with a statue of the Virgin in the centre, and S. Matthew and S. John on either side, perhaps the chef-d’oeuvre of Giovanni da Nola ; it was erected in 1 536 by Fabio Arcella, and stood formerly against one of the piers of the great arch. In this chapel and near the side door is the monument of the poet Marini ; and opposite that of Bartolommeo Pipi, with a good statue of Christ standing on the urn. Over the sarcophagus of the former is his bronze bust, by the Mi- lanese Bartolommeo Viscontini. This monument has a peculiar interest for Englishmen. The bust was executed by order of Giovan Battista Manso, Marchese di Villa, the heir and execu- tor of the poet, and placed in a chapel under his (Manso’ s) house in the Largo NAPLES — S. FILIPPO NEPJ. 103 de’ Girolomini, where it was seen towards 1640 by Milton, who thus alludes to it. Ille ( Marini ) itidem, moriens,' tibi (Manso) soli debita vates, Ossa tibi soli, supremaque vota reliquit : Nec manes. pietas tua clara fefellit amici ; Vidimus arridentem operoso ex aere poetam. Sylvarum — Mans us n At the death of Manso, in 1645, his house and chapel having been pulled down, the bust was lost. It was found, however, in 1682, and, in compliance with Manso’s will, his executors placed it on a monument they erected in the cloisters of the monastery of S. Agnello Maggiore. When this monastery was suppressed, the monument, by order of King Murat, was placed in 1813 where it is now seen. In the next or Ruffo Bag- nara chapel the picture of the Martyr- dom of St. Catherine is by Leonardo da Pistoia; and some tombs, amongst which is that of Leonardo Tomacelli (1519) : the notorious Cardinal Fabricio Ruffo, who played so important a part in the commotions of this kingdom at the close of the last centy., in connexion with Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton, is buried here. In the 6th chapel are several tombs of the Carafa family, and a painting of a saint dressing the wounds of St. Sebastian. The next chapel contains several tombs of the Andrea family, and a picture of S. Antonino, with the portrait of the Donatorio below. The 4th chapel, belonging to the Rota family, has a fine statue of St. John over the altar by Giovanni da Nola ; and the monument of the poet Bernar- dino Rota, with figures of the Arno and Tiber ; the whole by Domenico d' Auria. In the 3rd chapel on 1. the picture of the Martyrdom of St. John the Evangelist is by Scipione Gaetano : the tomb of An- tonio Carafa, called Malizia, with a recumbent figure, under a canopy, en- closed with curtains, and supported by statues, is a good specimen of the sepul- chral monuments of the 16th centy., The 2nd chapel on 1., dedicated to the Rosary, is in the bad style of the 17th cent., and is only remarkable for its mi- raculous Madonna di S. Andrea. The last chapel in 1. aisle, or next the great entrance, dedicated to St. Stephen, con- I tains a painting of Christ placing a crown on the head of St. Joseph, by Luca Giordano , and on the side walls an Adoration of the Magi, attributed to Albert Durer, and a Holy Family by Andrea da Salerno. The adjoining Mo- nastery contains many memorials of St. Thomas Aquinas, who was, in 1272, a professor in the university which was then established within its walls. His salary, fixed by Charles of Anjou him- self, was an ounce of gold monthly, equal to twenty shillings at the pre- sent time. The little cell in which the great theologian studied is still shown ; it has been converted into a chapel. His lecture-room and a frag- ment of his chair are also shown. Several of his works were composed here, and such was his fame that his lectures were frequently attended by the sovereign and the principal persons of the kingdom. In one of the halls of the monastery the Accademia Pontaniana holds its sittings. In the adjoining piazza di San Domenico, which opens into the Strada Trinita Maggiore, is what is called the Obelisk of S. Do- menico, supporting a bronze statue of the saint. It was designed by Fansaga t and finished by Vaccaro in 1737. S. Filippo Neri, or the Girolomini, in the Strada de’ Tribunal], is one of the most richly decorated churches in Naples. It was erected in 1592 from the designs of Dionisio di Bartolommeo. The fa 9 ade, originally designed by Dionisio Lazzari, was altered and covered with marbles in the last cent, by Ferdinando Fuga, and is much admired. The statues are by Sanmar- tino. The cupola is also the work of Lazzari. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, divided by 12 columns of grey granite from the island of Giglio, with Corinthian capitals, supporting a heavy archi- trave, with a heavy flat roof composed of compartments containing gilt bas- reliefs. The whole ch. is loaded with an excess of ornament. The frescoes in the lunettes over the columns are by Benasca. The large fresco over the principal entrance, representing Christ driving the dealers out of the Temple, is a celebrated work by Luca 104 NAPLES — CHURCHES . Giordano, with the architectural details by Moscatiello. The large picture at the high altar is by Giovan Ber- nardino Siciliano, and the two lateral ones by Corenzio. The rich chapel of S. Filippo Neri, on the 1. of the Tri- bune, designed by Giacomo Lazzari, has a painting on the cupola, represent- ing S. Filippo in glory, by Solimena, with numerous figures. The picture of the patron saint at the altar is a copy from Guido, who is said to have retouched it. The chapel Della Con- cezione has a cupola painted by Simo- nelli, representing Judith showing the head of Holofernes to his army ; and a picture of the Conception by Cesare Fracanzano. The chapel of the Ruffo Scilla family, in the 1. transept, is de- corated with fluted Corinthian columns and six statues by Pietro Bernini, father of Lorenzo, a picture of the Nativity by Roncalli, and an Annunciation above by Santafede. The chapel of S. Fran- cesco d’ Assisi (6th on 1.) contains a picture of the saint in prayer by Guido, executed as one of the competitors for executing the frescoes in the chapel of St. Januarius in the cathedral. In front of this chapel, at the foot of a pillar of the nave, is the sepulchral in- scription of Giambattista Vico, the author of the “ Scienza Nuova,” who died in 1744, and who with his wife was buried here. The chapel of S. Agnese (5th on 1.) contains pictures by Roncalli and Giordano. In the chapels in the opposite aisle, the Adoration of the Magi is by Corenzio ; the St. Jerome (in 3rd on 1.) struck with awe at the sound of the last trump is by Gessi ; the picture in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament is the last work of Santafede, who was cut off by death before it was completed ; the S. Alessio dying (over the 1st altar on 1.) is by Pietro da Cortona. The Sacristy con- tains several good paintings; among which may be mentioned the fine fresco of S. Filippo Neri in glory, by L. Giordano ; on the altar the Baptism of the Saviour, and over the altar the Flight into Egypt, by Guido ; the mother of Zebedee conversing with the Saviour, by Santafede ; an Ecce Homo and St. Andrew the Apostle, by Spagnoletto ; the Crucifixion, by Marco da Siena ; heads of the Apostles, by Domenichino ; St. Francis, by Tinto- retto ; two pictures of Christ bearing the Cross, by Bassano ; the Nativity and the Adoration of the Magi, by An- drea di Salerno; a Holy Family, by Mignard ; Jacob and the Angel, by Palma Vecchio ; St. Sebastian, by Cav. Arpino, etc. The vast Monastery ad- joining contains the library, which is described under the head of Libraries. S. Francesco di Paolo, in the Largo del Real Palazzo, was begun in 1817 from the designs of Bianchi of Lugano, and is a kind of imitation of the Pan- theon. The front facing the square is of a different style from that of the more noble edifice at Rome, consisting of an Ionic portico of 6 columns and 2 pilasters surmounted by a bare tympanum ; the Ionic capitals have been also disfigured by the in- troduction of fleurs-de-lis into their ornaments : the interior is covered with costly marbles ; 30 Corinthian columns of Mondragone marble encircle the interior of the building; the confes- sionals are^also of marble. The high altar, designed by Fug a and brought here from the ch. of SS. Apostoli, where it formerly stood, is all of most costly jasper and lapis lazuli. The two columns near it, which support candelabras, are of a rare Egyptian breccia, and were taken from the ch„ of S. Severino. The tribune for the royal family is above the body of the ch., and resembles the box of a theatre. The paintings and sculpture are all by modern artists. Begin- ning on the 1. of the principal . door, the statue of S. Athanasius is by Angelo Solaro, and the Death of S. Jo- seph by Camillo Guerra, Neapolitans ; the statue of S. Augustin by Tommaso Arnaud, a Neapolitan, and the Madonna della Concezione by Gaspare Landi, a Roman ; the statue of S. Mark by Fab- bris, a Venetian, and the St. Nicholas by Natale Carta, a Sicilian ; the statue of St. John the Evangelist by Tenerani ; the picture on the high altar, of St. Francesco di Paolo restoring a dead youth to life, by Camuccini of Rome ; the statue of St. Matthew by Finelli, and NAPLES — CHURCHES . 105 the Last Sacrament of St. Ferdinand of Castille by Pietro Benvenuti, of Florence; the statue of S. Luke by Antonio Cali, a Sicilian ; the statue of St. Ambrose by Tito Angelini, a Neapo- litan, and the Death of S. Andrea da Avellino by Tommaso de Vivo ; the last statue is St. John Chrysostomus by Gennaro Cali, a Sicilian. A double gallery runs round the church, at the base of the drum, which supports the cupola, and at its summit the vault is divided into square sunk panels with rosettes ; the central opening is much too small for the proportions of the cupola, whilst the latter is much higher in proportion to its width than the all-perfect one of the Pantheon. S. Gennaro extra moenia. See Cata- combs, page 76. Girolomini. See 8 . Filippo Fieri. Gesii Vecchio, in the Strada del Sal- vatore : it was formerly attached to the large convent of the Jesuits, now occupied by the University, built from the designs of Marco di Pino: it contains a picture by Solimena, and a Nativity by Marco da Siena. Gesu Nuovo, in the Largo Trinita Maggiore, built in 1584, in the palace of Roberto Sanseverino, Prince of Sa- lerno, from the designs of Pietro Pro- vedo, a Jesuit. It is in the form of a Greek Cross. It formerly had a cu- pola magnificently painted by Pan- franco, but it was destroyed by the dread- ful” earthquake of 1688, and nothing remains of the paintings but the four Evangelists at the angles. Over the principal entrance is a large fresco of Heliodorus driven from the Tem- ple, by Solimena. The chapel of Sta. Anna contains some frescoes by Soli- mena, executed when he was only in his 18th year. The frescoes over the arch of the high altar are by Stan- zioni. In the rich chapel of S. Ignazio, erected by Carlo Gesualdo, Prince of Venosa, and designed by Fansaga, the picture of the saint is by Imparato, the three frescoes above it by Spa- gnoletto, and the roof by Corenzio. In the opposite chapel the S. Francesco Saverio is by Bernardino Siciliano, and the three paintings above it by Gior- dano. The high altar is a magnificent specimen of modern decorative art, having a large bronze bas-relief of the Last Supper and busts of 6 saints of the order of the Jesuits in front, and a splendid tabernacle. The pillars and walls of this fine ch., as we see in many belonging to the Jesuits, are co- vered with a great variety of coloured marbles. The ch. of Gesu Nuovo and the adjoining convent are now the head- quarters of the Jesuit Order in the kingdom of Naples. S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli, next to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in the Largo del Castello, was built in 1540 by Don Pedro de Toledo, from the designs of Ferdinando Manlio, as the ch. of an hospital for Spanish soldiers^ The tombs on the sides of the stairs at the entrance from the piazza are by Michelangelo Naccarino. The Tomb of Don Pedro de Toledo, behind the high altar, is the masterpiece of Gio- vanni da Nola. Strangers are only allowed to enter in company with a priest or lay brother. This noble monu- ment consists of a sarcophagus on a richly decorated pedestal. Four very graceful female statues, illustrating the virtues of Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Temperance, stand at the corners of the pedestal. On one side of the sarcophagus is the inscription ; on the three others are bas-reliefs illustrative of the achievements of the viceroy in the wars with the Turks, and particu- larly his victory over the corsair Bar- barossa. These bas-reliefs were much admired by Ribera, L. Giordano, Mas- simo, and Yaccaro, and Salvator Rosa often copied them. The sarcophagus is surmounted by statues of Don Pedro de Toledo and his wife in the attitude of prayer. The sculp- ture and decorations of the monu- ment are in the best taste. The tomb was intended to be sent to Spain, but it remained in Naples by order of Don Pedro’s son. Among the pictures in this ch. are — in the 3rd chapel on 1., the Crucifixion and a Deposition by Ber- nardo Lama ; in the 4th chapel on rt.,the Virgin and Saints by Bernardino Siciliano; the S. Giacomo by Marco da Siena , in the 4th chapel on 1. ; the Assumption in the 1. transept, by Angelo Criscuolo ; and a f 3 106 NAPLES — CHURCHES. picture of the Virgin and Child under glass attributed to Andrea del Sarto. S. Giorgio dS Genovesi , in the Strada Medina, contains the celebrated picture of St. George killing the Dragon, by Andrea da Salerno. S. Giovanni a Carbonara , in the Strada Carbonara, opening out of a court on 1., and approached by a flight of steps designed by Sanfelice, was built in 1344, from the designs of Masuccio II., and restored and enlarged by King Ladislaus. Tt still retains in its outer walls some traces of its original archi- tecture, which, except in its magni- ficent sepulchral monuments, has en- tirely disappeared in the interior, es- pecially since the unseemly restorations lately completed. The interior is a frightful specimen of Neapolitan mo- dernization. Opposite the entrance is the Chapel de’ Miroballi,by an unknown artist of the 15th cent., enclosing the tomb of Trojano Miroballo, the fa- vourite of Ferdinand I. of Aragon. In the pilasters which support the arch of the high altar are the statues of St. Augustin and St. John the Baptist. Im- mediately behind the high altar is the Tomb of King Ladislaus, erected to him by his sister Joanna II. in 1414. It is the masterpiece of Andrea Ciccione , and is as high as the ch. itself. It has three stories or orders : the lower, now concealed by the altar, consists of four colossal statues of Virtues, which sup- port the whole monument. In the centre of the second stage, in a round- headed niche, are the crowned figures of Ladislaus and Joanna seated on their thrones, with two Virtues sitting near them, in pointed niches on each side of the central one. The Sarco- phagus containing the body is placed on the third stage of the monument, over the central group ; in front of it are 4 sitting crowned figures ; lying upon it a figure of Ladislaus enclosed in a tent-like covering with curtains, which angels are drawing aside : the whole is surmounted by a Gothic canopy, with the inscription Divtjs Ladislaus. On the summit is the equestrian statue of the young king, sword in hand. On each side of the xomb are frescoes of St. John the Baptist and St. Januarius by Bisuccio. Behind this monument, in the Gothic chapel of the Caracciolo del Sole family, is the tomb, also by Ciccione , of Ser- gianni Caracciolo, grand seneschal of the kingdom, the favourite of Joanna II., assassinated at the instigation of Covella Buffo, Duchess of Sessa, in 1432. A statue of Sergianni, holding the dagger in his hand, in allusion to his murder, stands on the sarcophagus, which is supported in front by statues of saints chiefly military. The lines on the sarcophagus were written by Lo- renzo Valla. The frescoes of this chapel, representing the life of the Madonna, are by Leonardo da Bisuccio of Milan, one of the last pupils of Giotto. The chapel of the Caraccioli Bossi, on the 1. of the high altar, was de- signed by Girolamo Santacroce, in the form of a circular temple. The statues of four apostles, in the lateral niches, executed as a trial of skill, are S. Peter by Merliano , S. Paul by Santacroce , S. Andrew by Caccavello, and S. James by the Spaniard Pedro della Piatta. The mezzo-rilievo of the Epiphany and the bas-reliefs of the altar are also by Della Piatta. The two Evangelists and the small statues of S. John and S. Sebastian on the same altar are by Santacroce. The tombs of Galeazzo on 1., and Colantonio Caracciolo opposite, are by Scilla and Domenico d’Aurict. The two half busts, with their pedestals, are by Finelli and Sanmartino. In the sacristy, formerly the Somma chapel, is a small picture by Bassano, a bas-relief on the altar attributed to Caccavello , and fifteen of the series of twenty-four frescoes which Vasari was commissioned to paint for this ch. in 1546. They represent subjects from the Old Testa- ment and from the life of S. John the Baptist; the landscapes and most of the figures are by Doceno, whom Va- sari induced to accompany him to Naples as his assistant. The presses of walnut-wood were executed from Vasari’s designs. At the opposite ex- tremity of the ch. of S. Giovanni a Carbonara is the handsome chapter- house, covered with frescoes ; and open- ing out of the court by which we en- tered the ch., and on the 1., the chapel NAPLES — CHURCHES, 107 of the Seripandis, over the altar of which is a large painting of the Cruci- fixion by Vasari. At the top of the stairs, before descending into the street, is another chapel, dedicated to Sta. Monica, which has been barbarously modernized during the present year; it -contains the very fine sepulchral monument of a Prince of Bisignano of the San Severino family, with several small statues, and the name of the sculptor, Opus Andreace de Florentia, for its only inscription. Close to S. Giov. a Carbonara was the arena for gladiatorial games, which were kept up so late as the time of Petrarch, who describes the horror with which he witnessed one of these combats in the presence of Queen Joanna I. and King Andrew. S. Giovanni Evangelista, in the Strada de’ Tribunali, was built in 1492 from .some old designs of Ciccione, by Pontanus the poet, who covered the interior with Greek inscriptions, and had two of the external walls inscribed with moral maxims. His tomb and the tomb he erected to his friend Pietro Compadre bear inscriptions from his pen. S. Giovanni Maggiore, in the Largo of that name, stands on the site of a temple erected by Hadrian to Antinous. It was reduced to its present form in 1685 by Lazzari. The bas-relief of the Baptism of the Saviour is one of the best works of Merliano. A painting of St. John the Baptist is a good example of the early Byzantine school. S. Giovanni de' Pappacoda, adjoining the ch. of S. Giovanni Maggiore, is re- markable for its Gothic portal by Ba- boccio. It has a square-headed door- way, with a pointed arch above it, con- taining statues, the Madonna and Child between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, Vdth an inscrip- tion commemorating the building of the ch. by Artusio Pappacoda, the grand seneschal of King Ladislaus, in 1415. Above is an elaborate niche, containing a statue with three pinnacles; that in the centre is sur- mounted by St. Michael slaying the Dragon; the other two by statues of the Archangels Raphael and Gabriel. The bell tower is of the same period, and has remains of handsome decora- tions : notwithstanding the rudeness of the figures as works of art, the effect of the whole is very good. The large palace in front was built by the Filomarino della Torre family (p. 157). S. Gregorio Armeno, in the Vico of the same name, between the Strada de’ Tribunali and the Strada di San Biagio di Librai, attached to a convent of Be- nedictine nuns, stands on the site of a temple of Ceres. It is preceded by a deep portico, over ^hich, in the interior of the ch., is the gallery for the nuns. The interior is overcharged with stuc- coes and gilt ornaments, which give to it a heavy appearance : many of the frescoes, especially those on the cupola and pendentives, are much injured, the best being over the arch on rt. of high altar. The three paintings over the entrance and those of the cupola and the choir are by L. Giordano, who painted his own portrait, at the age of 50, on the 1. over the door, as the man pointing out to the Greek nuns where to settle. The Ascension is by Bernardo Lama, the Annunciation is by Pacecco de Rosa, and the S. Benedict adoring the Virgin is attributed to Spagnoletto. U Incoronata, in the Strada Me- dina, retains its Gothic architecture in its groined roof, and some of its chapels: the present ch. consists of the nave and left aisle, the rt. one having been destroyed ; it is consider- ably below the level of the adjoining street. It was built by Joanna I., to commemorate her coronation and marriage with her cousin Louis of Ta- ranto, in 1352. She incorporated in the ch. the ancient Capella Regis, or chapel of the Palazzo di Giustizia of King Robert, in which her mar- riage had taken place, and where Giotto had painted his frescoes men- tioned by Petrarch. These celebrated frescoes are over the gallery at the W. end, from which they only can be seen, where the four triangular compartments of the Gothic roof con- tain each two subjects, seven of which are illustrative of the Seven Sacra- ments. The eighth is an allegorical representation of the Church, in which are King Robert and his son Charles , 108 NAPLES — CHURCHES. the Illustrious, dressed in purple robes. Baptism is represented by immersion. The two half figures of this fresco, one of which is crowned with laurel, have been supposed, without any authority, to be portraits of Laura and Petrarch. Holy orders are illus- trated by the pope consecrating a young priest. Penitence is represented by a woman confessing to a priest, while three penitents are leaving the church, clothed in black and scourging themselves with rods. Marriage is re- presented by the nuptials of a prince and princess, surrounded with all the pomp and festivities of the court. The prince is putting the ring on the finger of his bride, while a priest is joining their hands. They are accompanied by a brilliant court : several knights and ladies are dancing, while priests, musicians, and attendants complete the different groups. It is impossible not to be struck with the extreme beauty of the female heads and the graceful- ness of their attitudes. Indeed, the picture is a perfect study of the cos- tume and manners of the early part of the 1 4th cent. In the Chapel del Cro- cifisso, at the end of the 1. aisle, there are other paintings in the style of Giotto, attributed to Gennaro di Cola , a pupil of Maestro Simone. They repre- sent, on the 1. wall, the coronation of Queen Joanna with her husband Louis, the Carthusians doing homage to her for her rich endowment of a hospital which she founded near this ch. and presented to their order, and in the spaces of the wall her marriage and other events of her life. The paintings on the opposite wall are relative to S. Martin, a battle or tournament, and two equestrian figures of SS. George and Martin : these frescoes have suffered greatly ; those upon the wall behind the altar are entirely effaced. a S'. Lorenzo , in the small Largo of the same name, in the Strada dei Tribunali, was begun by Charles d’ Anjou I., to commemorate his victory over Manfred at Benevento, and finished under Robert, in 1324. It stands on the site of the. Basilica Augustalis, where the senate and people of Naples held their assemblies. It was built in the Gothic style from the designs of Maglione, a pupil of Nicola Pisano’s, and completed by Ma- succio II., who raised the vast flattened arch which separates the aisle from the choir. S. Lorenzo retains little of its Gothic style, except the great mar- ble doorway, and the ambulatory with chapels which surround the choir, and which, although neglected and unte- nanted, are fine specimens of the archi- tecture of the period. A window in the chapter-house is also remarkable. The 3 statues and bas-reliefs with the ara- besque ornaments of the high altar are by Merliano. The S. Anthony on m gold ground, in the chapel of that saint,, and one of the Coronation of King Robert by his elder brother St. Louis, bishop of Toulouse, in the 6th chapel on rt., are by Maestro Simone. The St. Francis giving the Rules of his Order is attributed to Zingaro. The large picture over the principal entrance is by Vincenzo Corso , and represents our Saviour and St. Francis, and several cotemporary portraits below in the act of adoration of the Sacrament. The choir contains the tombs, 1st of Catherine of Austria, first wife of Charles Duke of Calabria, the “ illus- trious,” by Masuccio II. It stands over the doorway leading into it, and is flanked by spiral columns resting on lions, supporting a Gothic canopy, on the front of which, turned towards the ambulatory, is a bas-relief of St. Francis receiving the Stigmata. Of Joanna Durazzo, Countess of Eu, and her hus- band Robert d’Artois, both of whom died of poison on the same day in 1387- It is supported by three Virtues. Above two angels are drawing back a curtain to show the recumbent figures. On the opposite side of the choir are the tombs of the Princess Mary, the infant daughter of King Charles Durazzo, and of Charles I., Duke of Durazzo, who was killed at Aversa by Louis of Hungary, for the part he took in the murder of King Andrew. The two latter tombs are by Masuccio II. On the pavement near the entrance of the ch., 'and on the rt., is the sepulchral slab memorial of Giambattista Porta, the celebrated natural philosopher of NAPLES — CHURCHES. 109 the 15th cent., who suggested the first plan of an Encyclopaedia. Giambattista Manso , Marchese di Villa, the friend and biographer of Tasso, is buried in the chapel of his family. In the passage leading from the ambulatory into the sacristy is the tomb, in a good style of art, of Aniello Arcamone, and a very ancient relief of Pope Leo II. ; and in the highly-decorated chapel of S. An- thony, in the 1. transept, the monument of Vittorio Pisanello, minister of Fer- dinand the Catholic, ob. 1510. In the cloister is the tomb of Ludovico Alde- moresco, executed in 1414 by Bamboccio, and remarkable for its elaborate bas- relief. In the chapter-house Alfonso I. held the Parliament in which his natural son Ferdinand was proclaimed heir to the throne, by the title of Duke of Ca- labria. Petrarch resided for some time in this Monastery ; and on the night of the 24th Nov. 1343, frightened by an hermit who predicted the awful storm of which he has left us so interesting a description in a letter to Giovanni Co- lonna, descended from his cell into the ch. to pray with the friars. In this ch. also Boccaccio, whilst meditating with his back to one of the columns, first be- held the fair damsel whom he celebrated under the name of Fiammetta, and who is supposed to have been Mary, the natural daughter of King Robert. S. Maria degli Angeli, in the Largo Pizzofalcone, built in 1600 from the designs of Grimaldi , is considered by Milizia the best proportioned ch. in Naples. It contains a fine Holy Fa- mily by Andrea Vaccaro , mentioned by Lanzi among his best works, a S. An- drew by Be Matteis, a S. Carlo Borromeo by Bernardino Siciliano, and in the Ge- race chapel a Holy Family by Nat ale Carta , and some bas-reliefs by Tito An- gelini. S. Mania dell ’ Annunziata , in the Stra- da dell’ Annunziata, was founded by Queen Sancia, wife of King Robert, and, with the exception of the sacristy and treasury, entirely destroyed by fire in 1757. It was rebuilt in 1782 by Vanvitelli, and is now considered one ofi the finest churches in Naples. Th* grand cornice is supported by 44 Co- rinthian columns of Carrara marble. The pictures of the high altar and tran- sept are by Francesco di Mura. The frescoes of the roof of the sacristy and treasury are by Corenzio. The presses of the sacristy are covered with bas-reliefs, illustrating the life of the Saviour, by Merliano. The statue on the tomb of Alfonso Sancio is by Do- menico d’ Auria. The Descent from the Cross, in mezzo-rilievo, is by Mer- liano. On the ceiling of the hall called “ l’udienza del governo” is a fresco of the Annunciation by Solimena. In front of the high altar a slab of marble with an inscription points out the Sepulchre of Joanna II. This ch. is attached to the foundling hospital of the Annunzi- ata, one of the most extensive charitable institutions in Naples. S. Maria del Carmine, in the Piazza del Mercato was founded by Margaret of Austria, who arrived too late to save the life of her unfortunate son, and devoted the sum she had brought for his ransom to found a ch. and con- yerrt, in which his body and that of his cousin might repose. The Grave of Conradin is behind the high altar. It has no other inscription than the letters R. C. C. ( Regis Conradini Corpus.') A cafe not far from the ch. is said to stand on the place of his execution, and in the ch. of Santa Croce al Mer- cato, called also the Furgatorio del Mercato , opposite, was preserved the small porphyry column which formerly marked the spot, and which had the following inscription in Lombard cha- racters, commemorating the treachery of Giovanni Frangipani, Conte d’ As- tura, by whom Conradin was betrayed : Asturis ungue leo pullum rapiens aquilinura Hie deplumavit, acephalumque dedit. The present king of Bavaria, when Crown Prince, a descendant of the house of Suabia, erected in 1847 a marble statue to his memory. The statue of Conradin was modelled by Thorwaldsen and executed by Scliopp of Munich, by whom also are the bas-re- liefs on its pedestal, representing Con- radin taking leave of his mother Eliza- beth ; and the separation of Conradin and Frederick of Baden on the scaffold, before their execution. The ch. contains also the grave of Masaniello, and the 110 NAPLES — CHURCHES. Tombs of the Marques del Carpio, Car- dinal Grimani, and Aniello Falcone the painter. It has on the roodloft a cele- brated Crucifix, which the Neapolitans hold in great veneration, and which is exposed to view only on the 31st Dec. It is said to have bowed its head at the siege of 1439, to avoid a cannon- ball which passed through the ch. The interior, originally of pointed architec- ture, has been altered, as many other edifices in Naples, during the Spanish rule ; there still remain, however, some traces of the Gothic style in the groined roof of the nave and tribune. The Campanile was designed by Con- forti, and finished by Nuvolo. S. Maria della Catena , in the Strada Sta. Lucia, erected in 1576 by the fishermen of the district, has a me- lancholy interest. It contains the grave of Admiral Caracciolo, whose body was buried here when it rose to the surface three days after his exe- cution. 8. Maria Donna Regina , in the Largo Donnaregina, with its large convent of Franciscan nuns, derives its name from Queen Mary of Hungary', wife of Charles II., who rebuilt the convent and died within its walls in 1323. The present ch. was rebuilt in 1620, from the de- signs of Guarini. The painting of the high altar is by Criscuolo. The two large paintings near it, representing the Marriage of Cana and Christ preach- ing, and the frescoes in the small choir, are by Giordano. In the Comunichino is the Tomb of Queen Mary, with her recumbent statue, the work of Masuccio II. 8. Maria Donna Romita , in the Strada del Salvatore, rebuilt in 1535, by Mor- mandi. In the Duce chapel is a paint- ing of the Virgin with St. Paul and St. John, by Micco Spadaro, and two Greek inscriptions referring to Theo- dore duke of Naples in 821. S. Maria delle Grazie a capo Napoli, in the Largo of the same name, was built in 1500 from the designs of Gia- como de Sanctis. The oil paintings and frescoes over the door, the tribune, the roof of the nave and transept, and on the upper walls, are all by Beinaschi, who was buried in this ch. in 1688. The Giustiniani and Senescalli chapels contain the two rival bas-reliefs of Mer- liano and Santacroce. The work of the former is the Incredulity of St. Thomas ; that of Santacroce is the Deposition from the Cross. The statue of the Madonna delle Grazie in the sacristy is also by Merliano. The fine bas-relief of the Conversion of St. Paul is by Domenico d’ Auria. The painting of the Madon- na, with S. Andrew and S. Matthew, on the 1. altar of the transept, is one of the best works of Andrea da Salerno. On the rt. of the great door is the tomb of a member of the Brancaccio family by Caccavello : on the 1. is another tomb of the same family by Merliano. S. Maria la Nuova, in the Largo of the same name, erected in 1268, 'by Gio- vanni da Pisa, on the site of the an- cient Torre Mastria : it was rebuilt in its present form in 1596 by Franco. Among the paintings of the ceiling is the Coronation of the Virgin by Santa- fede. The paintings of the cupola, with the four Franciscan writers, St. Bona- ventura, Duns Scotus, Nicolaus de Lyra, and Alexander ab Alexandro, are by Corcnzio. The frescoes of the roof of the choir are by Simone Papa the younger. The first chapel on the rt. hand contains a fine picture of the archangel Michael, once attributed to Michel Angelo, but now ascribed to D’ Amato il vecchio. In the -3rd chapel is the Crucifixion, with the Virgin, the Magdalen, and St. John, a fine work by Marco da Siena. The chapel of the Crucifix contains some frescoes by Corenzio. The monument of Galeazzo Sanseverino, rich in bas-reliefs, is a fine work of the 1 5th cent. A chapel near it contains a beautiful crucifix in wood by Merliano. At the high altar is the Madonna by Tommaso de ’ Ste- fani, formerly in the ch. of the Castel Nuovo. At the rt. of the high altar, under the organ, are two graceful children, painted by Luca Giordano in his youth. The chapel (2nd on 1.) of S. Giacomo della Marca is more a ch. in itself than a chapel, having 7 altars. It was erected by Gonsalvo da Cordova, whose nephew, Ferdinand, raised the two Tombs on each side of its princi- NAPLES — CHURCHES. Ill pal altar to the memory of his dis- tinguished enemies, Pietro Navarro (who, falling into the hands of his ene- mies, strangled himself in the prison of the Castelnuovo) and Lautrec, who besieged Naples for Francis I. in 1528, and died there of the plague in the same year. These monuments are at- tributed to Merliano. They afford a fine example of the chivalry of the period, and the language of the in- scriptions, written by Paolo Giovio, breathes the magnanimity of a great conqueror. The chapel at the rt. of the high altar contains a picture attri- buted to Spagnpletto : the frescoes re- presenting events of the life of the patron, on the vault, are by Stanzioni. The refectory of the convent contains some frescoes by Pietro and Polito del Donzello. The heads of St. John, and of one of the Magi, in the picture of the Calvary, are portraits of Ferdinand IT. of Aragon, and of his father Alfonso II. of Aragon. S. Maria del Parto, on the promon- tory at the W. extremity of the Mergel- lina, was founded by the Servite monks, on the site of a villa which Frederick of Aragon had given to Sannazzaro. The destruction of this villa by Phili- bert de Chalons, Prince of Orange, grieved Sannazzaro so much that he retired to Rome, and bequeathed its site to the monks. The ch. derives the name del Parto from Sannazzaro’s well-known poem De Partu Virginis. It contains his Tomb in a chapel be- hind the high altar. The design and execution of this fine monu- ment were confided by the executors of Sannazzaro to Girolamo Santacroce ; but in consequence of a dispute which arose between them and the monks, who favoured the preten- sions of their co-religionist Fra Gio- vanni da Mont or soli, whom they had brought to Naples for the purpose, it was agreed to employ both these artists and to divide the work between them. It is consequently supposed that the monument was designed by Santacroce, and, being left unfinished at his death, was completed by Montorsoli. On each side are two beautiful statues of Apollo U and Minerva, to which a religious scruple on the part of the monks, or, as some assert, a desire to save the statues from the rapacity of a Spanish viceroy, induced them to give the names of David and Judith which we see engraved beneath. On a bas-relief between the statues, in the centre of the monument, is a group of Neptune and Pan, with fauns, satyrs, nymphs, and shepherds singing and playing on various instruments, evidently in- spired by Sannazzaro’s ‘Arcadia.’ Above this bas-relief is a richly- sculptured sarcophagus containing the ashes of the poet, and surmounted by his bust, crowned with laurels, and attended by two angels, one holding a book and another a gar- land of cypresses. On the bust is the poetical name he had assumed — Actius Syncerus. On the basis of the monu- ment is the graceful distich by Cardinal Bembo : — DA SACEO CINEEI ELOEES : HIC ILLE MAEONI SYNCEEVS, MVSA EEOXIMVS VT TVMVLO. VIX. AN : LXXII. OMIT MDXXX, In the 1st chapel on rt. is the Tomb of Diomede Carafa, Bishop of Ariano, and a curious painting, by Lionardo da Pistoja , representing St. Michael con- quering the Devil. The" saint is said to be a likeness of the bishop ; but the devil has the head of a pretty woman, who is reported to have tempted the bishop before he entered into holy orders. The lower orders at Naples call it II Diavolo di Mergellina. S. Maria del Pianto, on the hill of Lotrecco, was erected at the time of the plague of 1656, whose victims were buried in the vast cavern degli Sporti- glioni, beneath. The ch. contains a picture by Andrea Vaccaro , represent- ing the Virgin restraining the thunder- bolts which the Saviour is about to hurl against the city ; and two pictures by Giordano, relating also to the plague, and executed, it is said, in the brief space of two days. The view from the terrace before the ch. is one of the finest in Naples. S. Maria di Piedigrotta, near the en- trance to the Grotta di Posilipo, ac- cording to local tradition, was erected in 1353 on the site of a much older 112 NAPLES CHURCHES . chapel, in consequence of a dream •which led to the discovery of an old image of the Madonna, which is so great an object of devotion at the national festival to which it gives its name. (Page 88.) The ch. has undergone a general restoration of late : in the 1st chapel on the 1., gaudily restored, may be seen hun- dreds of ex-votos of every shape and kind, in acknowledgment of cures supposed to have been operated by the intercession of the miraculous image of the Virgin. S. Maria della Pieta de' Sangri, in the Calata di S. Severo, is the family chapel of the dukes of Sangro, princes of San Severo. Raimondo di Sangro reduced it to itspresent form in 1 766, and decorated it with a profusion of marbles, rich cor- nices, and capitals from his own de- signs. Under each arch is a mauso- leum of one of the San Severo princes, with his statue ; and in the pilaster adjoining it is the tomb of his prin- cess, with a female statue representing one of the virtues for which she was remarkable. The allegorical statues, beginning with the first pilaster on the rt. of what was originally the principal door, are, — Education, by the Genoese sculptor Queirolo ; Self-Control, by Cele- brano ; Sincerity and Vice undeceived, by Queirolo. On the opposite side are, Modesty, by Corradini; Conjugal Affec- tion, by Persico ; Religious Zeal, by Corradini; Liberality, by Queirolo; and Decorum, by Corradini. The statue of Cecco di Sangro, coming out of his tomb, fully armed, over the door, is by Celebrano ; the altars and statues of S. Oderisio and Santa Rosalia, who are claimed by the Sangro family as their kindred, are by Queirolo. These works, however they may excel in manual dexterity, are worthy only of the school of Bernini, and show how mechanical art becomes when it falls into a state of decline. The Modesty, a portrait of the mother of Raimondo, represents her covered with a long veil, through which the form and features are dis- cernible. The Vice undeceived is a por- trait of Raimondo’s father, and repre- sents him straggling to extricate him- self from a large net, an allusion to man’s delivery from the snares of vice by the aid of his good genius. The Dead Christ, lying on a bed and covered with a sheet, which is represented as adhering to the skin by the sweat of death, is by Giuseppe Sammartino. For these three monuments the Govern- ment of the day is said to have offered the sum of 30,000 dollars. The large bas-relief over the high altar, repre- senting the Passion, is by Celebrano . The chapel has suffered seriously from neglect and earthquakes. S. Maria della Pietd de ’ Turchini, in the Strada Medina, has the cupola painted by L. Giordano. On the ceiling is a Nativity and the Assumption, by Annella di Rosa, who was murdered by her husband in a fit of jealousy. The Guardian Angel, in one of the side chapels, is by Stanzioni. In the Con- fraternita, the Finding of the Cross, and the Deposition, are by Giordano. S. Maria Regina Cceli, in the Largo Reginacceli, belonging to nuns, who devote themselves to visiting the sick and instructing young ladies, was re- built in 1590 by Mormandi. The paint- ings on the roof are by Stanzioni ; and a S. Augustin in the 2nd chapel on the 1. by Giordano. S. Maria della Sanita, in the Strada Sanita, built on the designs of Nuvolo, has a subterranean ch. beneath the high altar, and contains some good pictures by Giordano, Bernardino Siciliano, Vac - caro, &c. S. Martino . — The Certosa or Carthu- sian convent and ch. of S. Martino, situated near the Castle of St. Elmu, is celebrated for the magnificence of its works of art, and for the fine views over Naples from it. The extensive monastic buildings were, under the French government, converted into a military hospital ; but the monks were restored in 1831, although much dimi- nished in numbers, there being only about 30 inmates at present : the ch. and cloisters form one of the very in- teresting objects to be seen by the foreign visitor at Naples: two roads lead to it, one from the Ponte di Chiaia, passing behind the castle of St. Elmo, the other from the Largo della Carita in the Toledo. At the bot- NAPLES — S. MARTINO. 113 tom of each of these ascents donkeys | will be found for hire. The building was begun in 1325 by order of Charles Duke of Calabria ; but it was entirely rebuilt and reduced to its present form towards the middle of the 17th centy. The first artists of the time were em- ployed to decorate it. In the vestibule are some rude frescoes representing the pretended massacres of the Car- thusian brethren in England, in the reign of one of our Henrys. The Ascension on the roof of the nave, and the twelve Apostles between the win- dows, are by Lanfranco. Over the principal entrance is the Deposition by Stanzioni, which, it is said, had be- come rather dark, and Spagnoletto per- suaded the monks to allow him to wash it. Instead of cleaning it, he de- stroyed its effect by using some cor- rosive liquid. The result is still appa- rent, for Stanzioni, on being informed of this treachery, refused to retouch the painting, declaring that it should remain a monument of Spagnoletto’s enmity. The two fine paintings by the side of this work, representing Moses and Elias, are by Spagnoletto , who also painted the figures of the twelve Apostles over the arches of the chapels on each side of the nave, which excel in force of expression and variety of character. The Choir is rich in works of art. The frescoes of the ceiling are by Cav. d’Arpino, who left unfinished one of them, the Supper [' at Emmaus, when he fled from Naples to i escape the persecution of Corenzio. It was completed by Berardino. The Na- tivity at the end is one of Guido’s ^ most beautiful works, but he was cut 1 off by death before it was completed. Such was the value set upon this 1 work by the monks, that, although I they had paid Guido 2000 crowns, they | refused to allow his heirs to return any II portion of the money. On the sides of the choir are, on the 1., the Last Sup- | per, by Spagnoletto , in which he has !| successfully imitated the style of Paolo [ Veronese; and the Washing of the | Feet, by Caracciolo ; on the rt. is the Last Supper, by Stanzioni ; and the In- , stitution of the Eucharist, by a painter of the Venetian school. The two marble statues in the niches of the choir are by Finelli and Domenico Bernini. The marble ornaments of the ch. were all designed by Fansaga, who sculptured the rosoni or colossal rosettes on the pilasters at the entrance to the chapels, in grey marble ; the beautiful pave- ment in marble mosiac is by the Car- thusian Presti. The high altar was de- signed by Solimena. The Chapels, five in number on each side, of which only 3 open into the nave, contain — The 1st on the rt. of the door, dedicated to the Madonna del Eosario, a painting by Domenico Vaccaro. — The 2nd, a Ma- donna by Stanzioni, two pictures by Andrea Vaccaro ; the frescoes on the roof are by Corenzio. — The 3rd, the S. John baptizing our Saviour, by Carlo Maratta , painted, as the inscription tells us, in his 85th year; the lateral paintings by De Matteis ; the frescoes of the ceiling, representing the Limbo , by Stanzioni; and the two marble statues of Grace and Providence by Vaccaro. — The 4th, S. Martin, attributed to Annibale Caracci , two lateral paintings by Solimena , and the ceiling painted by Finoglia. — The 5th, which forms the choir of the lay brethren, a painting on the altar by Vaccaro, and the frescoes on the walls by Micco Spadaro. On the opposite side — The 1st from the high altar has a S, Nicholas by Pacecco de Rosa. — The 2nd, indifferent paintings by La Mura . — The 3rd. dedicated to St. Bruno, is entirely painted by Stanzioni. — The 4th has a bas-relief of S. Gennaro and the Virgin by Vaccaro , two lateral paintings by Caracciolo, and the frescoes on the ceiling by Corenzio. The last is painted by De Matteis. A door from the choir leads on the 1. to the beautiful Sacristy, which is fully equal to the rest of the ch. The roof is painted by Cav. d’Arpino, the Ecce Homo is by Stanzioni, Peter’s De- nial by Michelangelo da Caravaggio, and the Crucifixion by Cav. d’Arpino , con- sidered by many as his finest work. The presses which surround it are in fine tarsia-work, with carved wood reliefs. The Tesoro adjoining contains the De- position prom the Cross, the master- piece of Spagnoletto, over the altar ; and on the ceiling the Judith by L. \ Giordano , said to have been painted in 114 NAPLES — CHURCHES. 48 hours, when he was 72 years old. In the presses around are numerous relics, tastefully arranged. On the opposite side of the choir is the Sala del Capitolo, or the Chapter-house, the frescoes on the roof of which are by Coren- zio, 10 paintings on the walls by Fi- noglia , over the door St. John preaching in the Desert by Stanzioni, and above the opposite one the fine painting of the Flagellation by Luca Camhiaso. The small hall del Colloquio, beyond this, has several paintings of the life of San Bruno by Avanzino. The cloister of the adjoining convent forms a grand quadrangle, which has 15 Doric columns of white marble on each side, and is adorned with statues of saints. The view from the convent is of surpassing beauty. From the Belvedere, at the extremity of the convent garden, the eye embraces the whole city of Naples, its Bay, and the rich plains stretching towards Nola, backed by the distant Apennines. The Monte della Misericordia, in the Strada Tribunali, erected in 1601, from the designs of Picchiatti, is an octagonal oh. with 7 altars, each devoted to a work of charity. The altarpiece is by Caravaggio, the Samaritan and the S. Peter by Santafede, the S. Paolino by Corenzio, and the Redeemer by Giordano . The building adjoining this ch. has large revenues, which are dispensed to the deserving poor; several beds are maintained in the hospitals; the debts of persons suddenly reduced to poverty are liquidated; the indigent sick are maintained at the Baths of Ischia ; and small dowries are given to poor girls. Monte Oliveto, and its once splendid monastery, in the Largo of the same name, were founded in 1411 by Guer- rello Origlia, the favourite of King La- dislaus, from the designs of Ciccione. The monastery is now occupied by the offices of the municipality, and the convent garden has been converted into a market. It was in this convent that Tasso found an asylum in his sickness and misfortunes in 1588, and repaid the kindness of the monks by writing a poem on the origin of their order, and by addressing to them one of his finest sonnets. The ch. is a perfect museum of sculpture, but its architec- tural beauty has been completely ruined by restoration during the Spanish rule. In the porch, on rt. of the door, is the tomb of the architect Domenico Fontana, who died in 1 607. In the inte- rior of the ch.,in the 2nd chapel on the 1., belonging to the Piccolominis, and over the altar, is the celebrated rilievo of the Nativity by Donatello, or, according to others, by his pupil Antonio Rossellino. Above the Nativity is a Choir of re- joicing angels, by Possellino ; “ the angels singing,” says Vasari, “ with parted lips, and so exquisitely finished that they seem to breathe, and displaying in all their movements and expression so much grace and refinement, that genius and the chisel could produce nothing in marble to surpass this work.” The bas-relief of the Crucifixion, in the same chapel, and the beautiful Tomb of Mary of Aragon, the natural daughter of Ferdinand T., and wife of Antonio Piccolomini, Duke of Amalfi, are by Rossellino. The tomb is nearly similar to that erected in the ch. of San Miniato at Florence, by the same artist, to the Cardinal of Por- tugal, and which was so much admired by the Duke of Amalfi, that he commis- sioned Rossellino to execute such a one for his deceased duchess. Another work of considerable interest in this chapel is the picture of the Ascen- sion by Silvestro de’ Buoni. In the Mastrogiudici Chapel, the 2nd on rt., is the relief of the Annunciation, by Benedetto da Maiano. It represents the Virgin surrounded by saints and angels holding garlands of flowers, with six of the miracles of our Saviour in low relief. In the same chapel are several tombs, amongst others that of King Alfonso. The chapels of the Pezzo and Liguori families contain the works of two distinguished sculptors, who were commissioned to decorate them with the | productions of their chisels. The Pezzo n< Chapel, the first on 1., has a statue of the Madonna between St. Peter and St. John in high relief, and on the front of the altar the bas-relief of the Saviour calling St. Peter in the ship, by Santa- croce. In the Liguori Chapel, in a j NAPLES — CHUKCHES. 115 corresponding place on the rt. of the entrance, are statues of the Virgin and Child with St. John and other saints, and the bas-relief below, with S. Fran- cesco di Paola and the Four Evangelists by Merliano. By these works Merliano achieved for himself a high rank among the sculptors of the 16th cent. The same artists have left other works in this ch. The chapel, 6th on 1., near the high altar, contains the St. John Baptist by Merliano , and the St. Antony by Santacroce. The Chapel del Santo Se- polcro, reached by a passage out of the rt. transept, contains the tomb of Cardi- nal Colonna, viceroy of Naples, who was poisoned by his servants with a fig, and buried in the same grave with Charles de Lannoy, a general of Charles V. ; and a singular group of full-sized figures kneeling: before a statue of our Saviour in terra-cotta by Modanino, in which the principal figures, which are painted over, are in full relief, and likenesses of contemporary cha- racters. Sannazzaro is introduced as Joseph of Arimathea; Pontanus as Nicodemus ; Alfonso II. as St. John ; and his son, the young Prince Ferdi- nand, is the next figure. In the D’ Avalos chapel is the Madonna sur- rounded by angels and worshipped by S. Benedict and S. Thomas Aquinas, one of the best paintings of Santafede. The choir contains the frescoes of Simone Papa the younger, representing different histories of the monks of the Olivetan order ; the tombs of Alfonso 1 1. and of Guerrello Origlia, by Giovanni da Nola , entirely similar ; that of Arch- bishop Bamaldi, ob. 1500. Over the principal entrance to the ch. is the organ, by Catarinozzi of Subiaco (1497), considered one of the finest toned in Italy. S. Paolo Maggiore, opposite to the ch. of San Lorenzo, in the Strada Tribunali, is buil t on the site of a temple of Castor and Pollux, erected by Julius Tarsus, a freedman of Augustus, and prefect of Naples during the reign of that em- peror, and of which two fine Corinthian columns, with a portion of the archi- traves, still erect, stand out from the modern facade : it was ruined by the earthquake of 1688, and rebuilt three years later after the designs of Grimaldi, one of the brothers of the Theatine order, to whose house it is attached. Besides the two erect columns, there are the bases of others, and two mutilated torsoes supposed to belong to the divinities to whom Tarsus raised the temple. The interior is highly de- corated with inlaid marble-work and paintings ; none, however, of the latter of any great merit. The ceiling ol the choir and transept was painted by Corenzio. The frescoes on the ceilings of the nave are by Stanzioni. In the passage leading out of the rt. tran- sept to the Sacristy is the Depo- sition from the Cross, by Marco da Siena ; and in the 2nd chapel on the rt. a large picture of the Nativity, attributed to the same master. The Sacristy, a splendid hall, contains numerous fres- coes ; those of the Conversion of St. Paul, and of the Fall of Simon Magus, are considered the chefs-d’oeuvre of Solimena. The Cloister, which is said to stand on the site of the ancient theatre in which Nero appeared as an histrion, has 24 Doric columns of granite, which evidently belonged to it. At the foot of the stairs leading to the ch. is a pedestal, surmounted by a bronze sta- tue to S. Gaetanino, of the Theatine Order. The part of Naples where this ch. stands was the centre of Boman Naples; the neighbouring ch. of St. Lo- : renzo stands on the site of the Forum of Augustus; S. Gregorio Armeno, also close by, on that of a temple of Ceres. S. Pietro ad Aram, in the Strada of the same name, derives its name from an altar at which the Apostle S. Peter is said to have officiated and to have baptized St. Aspremus, the first bishop of Naples, and Santa Candida. It contains an alto-relievo representing the Descent from the Cross by Santa- croce in 2nd chapel on 1. ; a S. Michael 1st chapel on 1. ; and an alto-relievo of the Madonna delle Grazie by Mer- liano , in 1st chapel on rt. S. Pietro a Maiella, in the Strada S. Pietro a Maiella, near the Piazza del Mercatello and the Toledo, was built by the favourite of Charles II., Giovanni Pi- pino of Barletta, whose tomb has a long inscription in leonine verse, record- 116 NAPLES —CHURCHES. ing his death in 1316. It consists of a high Gothic nave and aisles, and two fine arches over the tribune, but the pointed architecture has been greatly spoiled by subsequent restoration, and the pro- fusion of reliefs introduced on the arches and chapels. It was formerly annexed to a monastery of the Celestins, now converted into the Conservatorio or Collegio di Musica. The paintings on the ceiling, representing the actions of Pietro Morrone in his soli- tary hermitage on Monte Maiella, and on the Papal throne as Celestin V., and those of the transepts, representing the life of St. Catherine of Alexandria, are considered amongst the best works of Cav. Calabrese. The altarpiece in the chapel of S. Pietro Celestino is by Sian- zioni , the frescoes by Be Matteis. The statue of St. Sebastian and the bas-relief in the chapel near the sacristy are by Merliano. S. Pietro Martire , in the Strada of the same name, founded by Charles II., was entirely remodelled in the last centy. Near the entrance is a curious bas- relief of Death chasing a Merchant, with a dialogue. It was erected in 1361 by one Francischino di Pignale, who twice had escaped being drowned. The interior contains the Assumption of the Virgin, and a Madonna in glory, by Silvestro de’ Buoni, and an interesting bas-relief of the Madonna crowned, which appears from the shape to have formed the ornament of a Gothic door- way. The three pictures of the impri- sonment and martyrdom of St. Peter Martyr are by Francesco Imparato. In the transept are the tombs of Bea- trice of Aragon, daughter of Ferdi- nand I., and widow of Mattheus Cor- vinus, King of Hungary ; of Isabella di Chiaramonte, first wife of Ferdi- nand I. ; of Don Pedro of Aragon, brother of Alfonso I., who was killed during the siege of Naples in 1439 ; and of Cristoforo di Costanzo, Grand Seneschal of Joanna I. SS. Pietro e Paolo, in theVico de’ Greci, founded in 1518 by Thomas Palseolo- gus, is the ch. of the Greeks, the Greek liturgy being in use here. The frescoes are by Corenzio. SS. Severino e Sossio , in the Largo S. Marcellino, attached to the extensive monastery of Benedictines of Monte Casino, was enlarged and modernized in 1490 from the designs of Francesco Mormando. The Cupola, painted by the Flemish artist Scheffer , was one of the first erected in Naples. The fres- coes of the ceilings of the choir and transept are by Corenzio , who lost his life by falling from the platform while retouching one of them, and is buried < in the ch. The interior consists of a wide nave lined with chapels. The 1st chapel on the rt. has the Nativity of the Virgin, and the 3rd her Assump- tion, by Marco da Siena ; in the 2nd, a sculptured altarpiece by Naccarini , of the Madonna delle Grazie , between St. John and St. Mark; the Annunciation in the 5th chapel is by Criscuolo , and the frescoes on the side walls by Corenzio. The 6th chapel, belonging to the Cimi- tile family, has been recently restored, and contrasts for its neatness with the neglect of most other parts' of the ch. The painting over its altar is an Adoration of the Magi, by Marco da Siena; and a good modern einquecento monument to the last princess. Be- yond this is the passage leading into the sacristy, in which is the Tomb of Andrea Bonifacio , who died in childhood. The dead child is represented lying in the funeral urn surrounded by weeping children, two of whom hold open the cover of the urn. This very graceful composition is attributed by De Domi- nici to Merliano, while others ascribe it to Pedro della Piatta. Opposite to it is the Tomb of Giambattista Cicara , by Mer- \ liano, with handsome statues and ara- besques. Both tombs have very touch- ing inscriptions by Sannazzaro. On the 1. j of the entrance to the sacristy is the de- scent to the subterranean ch., which on the principal altar has a large picture of i: the Virgin with the Saviour and Saints, Ij by Zingaro ; and on the altar of the 4th chapel the Madonna and Child with Saints, by Andrea da Salerno. Entering || the rt. hand transept, the large painting j I of Christ nailed to the Cross is by An- drea da Salerno ; the several statues f belong to the Mormile family, who con- tributed largely to the construction of ! the ch. Opening out of this transept is i KA PLES — CHURCHES — CEMETERIES . 117 the San Severino chapel, in which are the Tombs of the three brothers of that name, who were poisoned in 1516 by their uncle Ascanio, that he might suc- ceed to their inheritance. These fine monuments are by Merliano. Opening into the 1. transept is the Gesualdo chapel, over the altar of which is a group of a Pieta, by Domenico d’ Auria. The statue over the tomb of Vincenzo Carafa in the transept itself is by Naccarini , and the picture of the Crucifixion by Marco da Siena. In the recess of the 1. aisle, out of which opens the side door of the ch., are three pictures of some impor- tance ; that of the Baptism of Jesus Christ is on doubtful grounds attributed to Perugino ; the Adoration of the Ma- donna by S. Catherine and S. Scholas- tica is one of G. Imparato’s finest works ; and the St. Michael and other Archangels considered as G. d’ Amato’s chef-d’oeuvre. The Cloister of the adjoining monastery, an imposing specimen of Ionic architecture, from the designs of Ciccione, contains the master- piece of Zingaro. This celebrated work represents in fresco, arranged in seventeen large compartments, the Life of St. Benedict. Although, executed in the early part of the 15th cent, and injured by retouching, these frescoes are still remarkable for what Lanzi calls the “ incredible variety of I figures and subjects,” for their pictu- ] resque backgrounds, and for the beau- | tiful expression of the countenances, : which, as Marco da Siena said, seem living. The greater part of the exten- l sive cloisters adjoining this ch. have I been converted into the General Archives ] of the kingdom, (see p. 152). S. Severo. See S. Maria della Pieta d. JD. D. The same inscription was repeated on an altar which stood in the centre of the niche, but which has been removed. A beautiful tripod supported by satyrs was found here. Hence it is supposed that the niche was a sepulchral monu- ment and Sacellum. Mazois, not aware of the inscriptions, imagined that it was an cedicula or small shrine to the tute- lary genius of the roads. The idea that it was a sentry-box arose from the dis- covery of a soldier’s skeleton within it. The facts we have just mentioned are quite at variance with this idea ; and, moreover, there is no such building as a sentry-box at any of the other gates, or on any part of the walls which are at present visible ; but as this skeleton was fully armed, with his helmet on his head and his hand still grasping his lance, it has been supposed that he was on duty at the adjoining gate. From its proximity to the mountain, this quar- ter must have been the first which felt the effects of the eruption ; and when the fiery storm thickened around him, the hero, faithful to his trust, may have taken shelter in this building, rather than follow bis fellow citi- zens who were escaping by the other gates. Herculaneum Gate (1763). — This gate was the most important entrance to the city. The arch has entirely dis- appeared ; but enough of the other parts remains to show that it had a central entrance 14^ ft. wide, and two side entrances for foot passengers, each of which was 4 ft. 6 in. wide, and 10ft. high. The height of the central open- ing can hardly have been less than 20 ft. The architecture of the gate is entirely Homan, and is built of brick and lava in alternate layers. The central arch on the outer side was defended by a portcullis, lowered by grooves which still exist in the piers ; and on the inner was closed by folding doors, working upon pivots in holes which are still visible in the pavement. Be- tween the portcullis and the inner door the space was open, forming a division from the pavement, and open above, making the gate a double one, so that, in the event of the portcullis being carried, the besieged could throw down missiles on their assailants, be- fore they had time to force the inner entrance. The whole was covered with white stucco, on which were found written in red or black letters, an- nouncements of gladiatorial games and official ordinances. A marble sun-dial was found outside the gate, in the angle formed by the left entrance and the wall. On the left of this gate is one of the best preserved portions of the walls of Pompeii, a fine specimen of an- cient masonry, consisting of horizontal courses of blocks of the older volcanic tufa, similar to that quarried about Naples. II. Street of Herculaneum. — On en- tering the gate, the street ascends, and proceeds by three curves to the Forum. The houses on the rt. appear to have been erected where once stood the Avail towards the sea, and to have extended perhaps to the beacb. On the 1. the houses are arranged in quadrilateral blocks, or islands, separated by the transverse streets which communicate with the main thoroughfares, forming Avliat the Romans called “ islands of houses.” Immediately on the inside of the gate, on the 1., are the Steps leading to the walls. House of the Triclinium (1787). — Close to the steps is a house on the smallest scale, consisting of a passage, EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES POMPEII. 207 a sitting-room, a servants’ room at the foot of the stairs, a kitchen, a lararium , containing a represen- tation of a bed on which the goddess is reposing, and a court which was covered with trellis-work, as the holes for the beams are still visible. In one corner is a large stone triclinium, from which the house derives its name ; above, there was apparently one bed- room and a terrace. Inn of Albinus , also called of J ulius Polybius, from his name found written on the walls (1770). — The first house on the rt., close to the gate. The checquers found on the doorposts ex- plain the character of this house. The entrance is by a broad carriage door- way, leading into an apartment which was evidently an inn yard, as two ske- letons of horses, fragments of bits and bridles, rings for fastening animals, and portioils of chariot-wheels, were found in it. The house contains several apartments for the accommodation of strangers, a kitchen, a long cellar, and a liquor-shop. On the pilaster of the next house is carved a phallus, lately covered over by Royal mandate, as all similar representations at Pompeii. It is supposed to represent the amulets and charms sold by the proprietor of the neighbouring shop, several of which were found in it. Thermopolium (1769). — A house for the sale of hot drinks, nearly opposite to the inn, with numerous apartments in the rear which served probably as drinking-rooms, as one of the Avails contained announcements of the public festivals of the day. The shop itself contained a furnace, steps for arranging the glasses, and a marble counter, which, when uncovered, exhibited the stains of the liquor and the marks of the glasses. The figure of Mercury was painted on various parts of the house. Some of the walls were covered with names, scratched by the customers upon the plastering which covered other names of previous scribblers. The establishment belonged, as told by an inscription, to a certain Perennius Nim- phorois. Souse of the Vestals (1769). — A double house, occupying the whole space between2 streets, comprising a vestibule, an atrium with the usual apartments on each side, a triclinium, formerly richly paved with mosaics and deco- rated with pictures by no means in accordance with the name given to it. The pavement of several of the rooms was formed of fine mosaics which have been removed to Naples ; one, however, still remains at the threshold of the second house, to welcome the visitor with the word Salve. The walls of several of the bed-rooms and cabinets were richly painted with arabesques and other decorations. In one of them a quantity of female ornaments and the skeleton of a dog were found. At the extremity of the house is a room called the lararium , with 3 niches, containing an altar on which those who gave the building the name it bears supposed that the sacred fire was kept burning. When first excavated, the kitchen and offices were found filled with fruits, corn, and amphorae. Several skeletons were found behind this house. Souse of the Surgeon (1771). — A single atrium with numerous apart- ments at the sides and a garden behind ; the walls of the former painted with ar- chitectural designs, arabesques, and com- partments containing figures. Several of the surgical instruments now in the Museo Borbonico were found here. Custom Souse , Telonium , or Pondera- Hum (1788). — A doorway leading into a court, in which a number of balances and weights were found, — several of the latter in marble, with the inscrip- tion, c PON tal ( Centum PondeHs Talentum ) ; others in lead, with the words JEme and Sabebis , “ Buy and you shall have;” one of the balances had an inscription, stating that it had been verified at the Capitol in the 8th Consulate of Vespasian and 6th of Titus. Behind is an unpaved court, 208 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. In which the skeletons of two horses 1 with three bronze bells on the neck of each were found. Soap Factory (1786). — A small shop, which contained heaps of lime and other materials used in making soap, the vats, the evaporating pans, and the moulds. Tavern of Phoebus (1786). — A house near the corner of the street, which was formerly called Thermopolia , a name once given to all the shops which had materials for heating liquids. The ske- letons of a man and of two animals were found in it, and an inscription stating that “ Phoebus and his cus- tomers solicit M. Holconius Priscus and C. Graulus Bufus the duumvirs.” Public Cistern (1788), placed at the junction of three streets ; it is a small basin, with a castellum , or circular- headed reservoir. III. We now turn down the street on our 1., at the back of the houses which we have just examined. House of the Dancing Girls (1809) , which derives its name from the pic- tures of the Four Danzatrici , which covered the atrium. This and the two following houses were formerly sup- posed to have formed one mansion. House of Narcissus (1811), formerly called the House of Apollo, from the bronze statuette with silver strings found in it. The modern name is de- rived from a graceful picture of Narcis- sus. The peristyle and its columns are very elegant ; the hollows in the low wall which fills the intercolumniations are supposed to have contained flowers. From the surgical instruments, oint- ments, and lint found in one of the rooms, the house is supposed to have been the residence of a surgeon. IV. We return hence to the Trivium and Fountain in the Street of Hercu- laneum. Public Dalcehouse (1809), at the angle of the House of Sallust, the pro- prietor of which no doubt let it to ad- vantage, as Cato tells us that the millers of Pompeii were in great repute. This bakehouse, which is smaller than one we shall have to describe shortly, contains three mills and a smaller one, the oven with two troughs for water in front of it, the kneading-room, the cistern, the store-room, &c. When first opened, the corn, the water- vessels, and the amphorae containing the flour, were all in their proper places. House of Sallust (1809), so called from the inscription, c. Sallust, m.f., painted on the outer wall, formerly called the House of Actceon , from a fresco on the wall of the ladies’ atrium, is one of the largest mansions in Pompeii, and stood on the Via Domitiana. It occupies an area of 40 square yards, and is surrounded on three sides by streets, the front of the ground-floor being occupied by shops. When excavated it bore marks of having been rifled of its portable treasures after the eruption. The arrangement of the building and the details of its different apartments are described at length in all the great works on Pompeii. The entrance-door is flanked by pilasters with stucco capi- tals, one of which represents Silenus teaching a young faun to play upon the pipe. The passage is bordered by apartments for the porter and by a shop for the sale of oil ; the atrium, with a fountain in the centre, and an impluvium of marble in the form of a shell. On either side are highly- decorated apartments, one of which serves as an ante-chamber to a hall on the 1., supposed to have been a winter triclinium. The exhedra at the ex- tremity of the atrium opens on a portico of fluted Doric columns, which borders a garden-ground, 70 ft. by 20, the cen- tre of which w r as paved, the flowers being arranged in boxes. The walls were gracefully painted to represent trellis-work, creepers, birds, and foun- tains. In one corner is a summer tri- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 209 clinium, with, a round table of marble in the middle and apertures above for the beams of the trellis. The walls are painted in panel, with a frieze at the top, representing the eatables used at a feast, but nearly every trace of this painting has perished. In the other corner of the garden is a small stove for heating water, supposed to mark the position of a bath. On the rt. of the atrium is a Venereum. It con- sists of a small court, surrounded by a portico of octagonal columns, a sacra- rium dedicated to Diana, two sleeping- rooms at the sides with glazed windows looking into the court, a triclinium separated from the court probably by curtains, a kitchen, a water-closet, and a staircase leading to a terrace above the portico. Every part is elaborately decorated, and the paintings are appro- priately expressive of the uses to which the apartments were applied. The walls of the court are painted black with rich gilt ornaments ; the columns are bright red. The sleeping-rooms contain pic- tures of Mars, Yehus, and Cupid, and the entire w r all at the back of the court is covered with a large painting, repre- senting the story of Diana and Acteeon. < In the adjoining lane was found the skeleton of a young female ; she had four rings on one of her fingers, set with precious stones ; five gold brace- lets, two earrings, and thirty-two pieces of money were lying near her. Close at hand were found the, skeletons of three other females, who were probably her slaves. Blacksmith? s Shop, consisting of two rooms ; in the front one was the forge. Different articles of the owner’s trade were found here. Public Bakehouse (1810), on the Yia Domitiana, and upon a larger scale, and more elaborate in its construc- tion, than the one already described. It has a court 36 ft. by 30, with square pillars to support the roof. Beyond the court is the bakehouse, 33 ft. by 26, containing four flour-mills of lava. The lower part, in the form of a cone, is fixed firmly in the ground. The upper, which is shaped externally like the compartments of an hour-glass, is hollowed internally into two cavities, the one conical to receive the corn, the lower one fitting over the projection of the solid cone beneath. The upper part, when first discovered, had an iron framework, with holes for the insertion of wooden bars, to which asses and sometimes slaves, as both Plautus and Terence describe, were attached, for the purpose of turning it. In the room which is supposed to have served as a stable, a jawbone, and other fragments of an ass’s skeleton, were found. In others were the ovens, the stone knead- ing-troughs, the ash-pit, the cistern, and vessels for holding water. On one of the piers was a painting representing an altar with the guardian serpents, and two birds chasing large flies. Academy of Music (1810), so called because it was covered with paintings representing instruments of music and tragic scenes. House of Julius Polybius (1808-17). — A large house of 3 stories, on the rt. of the street, opposite the house of Sallust, built on a rock sloping down to the ancient beach. The floor by which we enter is level with the street. It presents the usual arrangement of a vestibule and atrium opening on a ter- race, a peristyle, and the ordinary pri- vate apartments. Under the terrace are a private bath, a saloon, a tricli- nium, &c. Beyond them is another terrace overlooking a large court, sur- rounded by porticos, with a reservoir in the centre. Below is another floor containing the baths, and the dark cells in which the slaves were perhaps lodged. Many of the rooms were decorated with mosaics and other ornaments of great beauty, but, like all the earlier excava- tions on this side, they were filled up and greatly injured before the site was opened the second time. House of Three Floors (1775-80). — Adjoining this is an extensive building 210 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — POMPEII. which bears this name, as the floors have been preserved entire. It is sup- posed to have belonged also to Poly- bius, as inscriptions in which his name occurs have been found among the ruins. It has a large Corinthian pe- ristyle of arcades and piers, with two vestibules communicating with the street and the atrium. The arcades have square apertures for windows which appear to have been glazed. At this point the street branches into two — that on the rt. is not yet cleared ; the 1. leads into the Street of For- tune, or of the Baths, and from thence to the Forum. Apothecary's Shop (1809), at the corner of the Trivium. On the outer wall is a painting of a large serpent as the genius loci. Several glasses and phials, containing medicinal prepara- tions, were found in this shop. Thermopolium or Tavern of Fortu- nata , at the corner of the next Trivium, a shop of the usual character, with a counter, upon which are still marks of the vessels that stood upon it, covered and faced with marble, and the walls painted in blue panels with red bor- ders. In front of it is a Fountain , at the angle of the pave- ment, consisting of a large square basin. Y. We now turn to the N., down a street, called of the Ramparts, which, extending from the city wall, here falls into the main thoroughfare, beginning our examination at the bottom, with the House of the Fainted Columns (1844), a small house, the name of which de- scribes its principal features. House of Neptune (1844), small, but remarkable for some pretty paintings in the atrium, and for a marble implu- vium, with a space round it for plant- ing flowers. nouse of Floivers (1809), formerly called the House of the Wild Boar , from a mosaic of a Dog seizing a Wild Boar by the ear, now in the collec- tion of the Due d’Aumale. It derives its present name from some graceful pictures representing nymphs bearing flowers in their aprons. House of Modestus (1808), so called from an inscription in red on the walls of the house opposite. It is small, and its atrium is impluviatum , or inclined outwards, so as to throw the water out- side instead of carrying it into a cistern in the centre of the floor. House of Fansa (1811-14), one of the largest and most interesting man- sions. It occupies an area of 300 ft. by 120, and extends into 4 streets, the front opening into that of the Thermae. The front of the ground-floor along the three streets is occupied entirely by shops, which we have Cicero’s authority for describing as one of the most lucra- tive kinds of property in Roman times. One of these shops appears, from the communication between it and the man- sion, to have been the proprietor’s own store for the sale of the produce of his estates ; another is a bakehouse of the usual character, with a phallus now covered up, and the inscription Hie habitat felicitas. Another, in the side street, lias a cross on the wall, from which Mazois inferred that it had been inhabited by a Christian. The prin- cipal entrance to the mansion is de- corated with two Corinthian pilasters, and paved with mosaics. On the wall near it were painted in red letters the words Pansam 2Ed. Paeatvs Rogat ; Paratus being the shopman, who thus invites customers to deal in the adjoin- ing shop. The interior presents the usual arrangement : — an atrium with the ordinary apartments at the sides, followed by a tablinium, a peristyle of 16 fluted Ionic columns, with an open court containing flower-beds and a fish- pond in the centre ; bed-chambers on one side, a triclinium and a library abutting on the back walls of the shops on the other ; a court opening into the garden, flanked on the rt. by domestic EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 211 apartments, and on the 1. by servants’ rooms and a kitchen which was sup- plied with stoves like those now in use. The whole breadth of the building facing the garden had a portico of two stories. The garden was half as large as the mansion, with a reservoir in one corner and the remains of a fountain in the centre. The entire building was rich in mosaic pavements and mural paintings, but nearly all of them have disappeared. One very curious paint- ing remains in the culina or kitchen, representing a sacrifice to the Lares, who are personified by two serpents near an altar : they were surrounded by the elements of a dinner, a pig for roasting, a ham, a string of mullets, a spitted eel, a boar’s head, thrushes, &c. Sir \Y. Gell gives a restored view of the interior of this mansion, which will convey an idea of its general character. In one of the bed-rooms five female skeletons were found, some of them with gold ear-rings in their ears. YI. The S.E. front of the House of Pansa faces the Street of the Baths , one of the main thoroughfares of the city. Before we describe the interest- ing objects which it contains, we shall return TST. towards the city wall, and examine the island of houses lying be- tween this and the Street of Mercury. House of Apollo (1838), near the bottom of the street, and close to the -city walls, with richly painted walls, a fountain, and a garden decorated with Bacchanalian garlands. Two mo- saics representing the quarrel of Aga- memnon and Achilles, and Achilles at the court of Lycomedes, and the small bronze statue of Apollo Hermaphrodite in the Museum, which gave the house its name, were found in it. There still exists in the atrium a painting of Apollo, holding in one hand a globe, and in the other a whip : several valu- able bronzes were found in another part of tins house. In one of the smaller rooms are beautiful paintings of Apollo, Yenus, and Juno, with good archi- tectural decorations ; it probably was connected with the bath, from the liot- vapour tubes in the wall. There is a pretty cascade fountain in the atrium, the walls of which are painted to represent a garden with different kinds of birds, &c. House of Adonis (1836), so called from a large painting on the wall of the garden, representing Adonis wounded by the wild boar and consoled by Yenus. Another picture represents the story of Hermaphroditus and the nymph Sal- macis : but both of them have suffered considerably from exposure to the at- mosphere. In the two adjoining houses were found 14 silver vessels, some of which were adorned with bas-reliefs of Cupids and satyrs. House of the Small Fountain (1827), so called from a fountain encrusted with mosaics and shell-work, placed in the centre of the inner peristyle, and sup- plied by an impluvium, of which the leaden pipes and brass cocks are still visible. The water issued from the mouth of a comic mask. There is a good painting of the birth of Bacchus on one of the walls. The small bronze statue of the Fisherman, now in the Museo Borbonico, was found in front of it. The remains of two staircases prove that there was an upper story. House of the Great Fountain (1827), a handsome but irregular atrium, 50 ft. by 40, with a fountain in the centre of the peristyle, unlike any previously discovered, and more remarkable for its size and singularity than for its beauty or good taste. It consists of a large semicircular niche, surmounted by a pediment, the whole encrusted with mosaics of different colours, and orna- mented with a comic mask on each side. The water of the fountain issued from a mosiac mask, pouring over a small waterfall. On a pedestal in the basin was the small bronze Cupid holding a goose, now in the Museum. The Fullonica (1827), the House of the Dyers and Scourers, ’a very curious building, which has made us acquainted with one of the most important of Eo- 212 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. man trades. It has an atrium sur- rounded by a peristyle, with a fountain between two of the pilasters, and sur- rounded by numerous apartments con- taining the vats for the dyes, fire-places for hot water, ovens for drying the cloth, &c. The pilaster, on which were represented men, women, and boys en- gaged in the various operations of the trade, is now in the Museo Borbonico. Souse of the Tragic Poet , opposite the Thermae (1824-26), called also the Souse of Somer and the Souse of the Cave Canem , one of the small- est but most elegant private houses in Pompeii. When it was first dis- covered, it became celebrated through- out Europe for the variety and beauty of its paintings ; but most of its treasures have now been removed to the Museum. From one of these paintings representing a male figure reading from a scroll, and from the mosaic of the Choragus instructing the actors, the house was called that of the Tragic Poet. The large number of rings, bracelets, ear-rings, chains, and ornamental jewellery in gold, coins' and other articles in silver, portable stoves and lamps in bronze, which were found in it, should rather have suggested that it was the house of a silversmith. Ex- ternally, the lower part presents to the street a blank wall divided into square panels painted red ; the upper floor had windows opening on the street 6J ft. above the pavement, and measuring 3 ft. by 2 ; at the side of each window is a wooden frame in which the shutter worked. The door turned on pivots, the bronze sockets of which still re- main. At the threshold was the mo- saic of a dog chained, with the inscrip- tion Cave Canem ,. Beware of the dog, now in the Museum. The internal arrangement of the house is not dif- ferent from the others we have de- scribed, but its walls were decorated with an unusual number of first-class paintings. The atrium, the gynseceum, the triclinium, and several of the prin- cipal apartments, were covered with pictures, and many of the rooms were paved with rich mosaics. One of the walls of the principal apartment is divided into squares by perpendicular lines decorated with festoons and ara- besques, and supporting a rich frieze representing a Combat of Greeks and Amazons. In one of the large apart- ments opening out of the inner court is a good black and white mosaic of fishes, with a painting of Leda present- ing to her husband, Castor, Pollux, and Helen, as new-born birds in their nest. A restoration of this house will be found in the 2nd series of Sir W . G-ell’s Pompeiana. From the dis- turbed state of the ground near the house, it is certain that search had been made after the eruption for the treasures it contained. Inns . — Two large inns terminated the street at this end. In one of them were found, in 1845, 206 large copper coins of Gfalba, Yespasian, and Titus, and 42 of silver. VII. We now enter the Street of Mercury , and return to the N. to com- mence our examination of the houses, as usual, at the end nearest to the city wall. Souse of Inachus and lo (1829), lias a fine marble table in the compluvium. Souse of Meleager (1829), called also the Souse of the Nereids. The occurrence of vessels filled with lime in different rooms, and the freshness of the decorations, indicate that the building was undergoing renovation at the time of the catastrophe. The arrangements of the interior, in con- junction with these repairs, lead one to suppose that the house is one of the most ancient which has yet been exca- vated. On each side of the atrium are paintings of Meleager and Mercury. In the atrium, the impluvium is remarkable for its fountain and pedestal of mar- bles, with a marble table behind, sup- ported on winged griffons. On the 1. of this opens a large court, in a room out of which the walls were painted yellow, above a red plinth, having one EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — POMPEII. 213 picture in the centre of each. The bed- rooms on the other side of the atrium were lighted by windows inserted above the doorways, and were richly decorated with arabesques. A large triclinium completes the building on that side. Passing from the atrium we reach the most magnificent peristyle which has been discovered at Pompeii. The holes in the marble threshold show that it was separated from the atrium by a door of four folding leaves. The spa- cious area contains 24 columns : at the base of each is an iron ring for fasten- ing the lines which held the awning over the impluvium in the centre, which was evidently used as a fish- pond, and was so arranged that the water of a fountain fell over eight steps, forming a miniature cascade. Along the margin is still to be seen a deep channel in which were found remains of plants. The walls were covered with pictures, the best of which have been removed. At the back of the peristyle, facing the fountain, are two noble apart- ments, one of which is remarkable for its two tiers of columns. The upper one is surrounded by a gallery, which rests on arches springing from the capi- tals of the lower, the arches being small segments of a circle ; the only instance, perhaps, in a building of this date, in which the architrave was abandoned, in order that the columns might be tied together by a series of arches. At the extremity of the mansion on this side is a second triclinium, surrounded by a portico, of imposing size and propor- tions, and richly decorated. Souse of the Centaur (1830), called also the Souse of Meleager and Ala- lanta, or of Apollo , is an interesting mansion, which was also under repair at the time of the eruption. The prin- cipal features of the building, as it now appears, are the Corinthian atrium; the singular apartment with a window in whose marble framework traces of an iron gate are still visible ; the venereum, containing an apartment with Grecian pilasters and a Doric cornice ; the tri- clinium with a window looking out upon a garden, and the site of the gar- den itself now ruined by the fall of the cellars beneath it, but remarkable, when first discovered, as containing many of the shrubs with which it was planted. The mosaics and pictures with which the mansion was profusely decorated were found in an extraordinary state of preservation ; but everything of interest, including the beautiful painting of Me- leager and Ataianta, has been removed to Naples. Souse of Castor and Pollux (1829-30), known also as that of the Qucestor, or of the Dioscuri; a house of great magnificence and size, and decorated with elegance. It consists of two dis- tinct houses, separated by a peristyle, which seems to have been common to both. Unlike most of the other houses in Pompeii, the exterior of this exhi- bits the same attention to minute ornament and finish which character- ises the interior. The fagade is un- usually rich : the stucco with which it is covered being worked in panels and cornices, formed by stamped ornaments of the same material picked out with colour. At the entrance doorway is a bas-relief of Mercury running away with a purse. On the sides of the vestibule are paintings of the Dioscuri. The atrium, 40 ft. square, has a Corinthian peristyle of 12 columns, with an im- pluviuni and fountain in the centre. The walls, wliich are coloured red and yellow, are covered with paintings of arabesques, grotesques, landscapes and figures, including among the latter many of the gods. In the left angle is a small room, in which were found two very large and highly ornamented wooden chests, lined with bronze and bound externally with iron. They are supposed to have been the depositories of the money collected as taxes, cus- toms, and port dues, and from this supposition the building has derived the name of the House of the Quaestor, though there is no proof that a small town like Pompeii ever had an officer of that rank. They were found securely fastened to a solid plinth cased with marble, and were closed by strong bronze locks. When first excavated, 214 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — POMPEII. fifty gold and silver coins dropped through the decayed woodwork of the bottom, but these must have formed a very small portion of their treasures, for they had been rifled ages before. Whoever he may have been who was thus anxious to rescue the buried gold, the walls now standing show that he made an error in his calculation, and had to exercise considerable ingenuity and labour to repair it. In excavating from above, he entered the adjoining room, and instead of retracing his steps and renewing his excavations at the distance of a few* feet, which would have brought him into the apartment he was seeking, he preferred to cut through the massive wall of the atrium, and extract the money by breaking a hole in the chest which stood on the other side of it. This proceeding in- dicates an intimate acquaintance with the spot, while the evident reluctance to make a second excavation suggests the idea that the explorer was anxious not to attract attention to his work. Beyond these chests is the tablinum, with its beautiful pavement of white mosaic edged with black, and its walls decorated with peculiar brilliancy. Se- veral of the adjoining rooms are like- wise richly decorated. In the rear is a Doric colonnade opening upon a garden. The walls of this colonnade were deco- rated with paintings, mostly of tragic scenes in the theatre. The wall of the garden facing the house was painted to represent a pseudo-garden ; one of the walks was covered with a trellis, the sup- ports of which still remain. Passing over the minor apartments, we enter a most splendid court, called the Court of the Piscina by Grell. It is surrounded by a colonnade formed of 4 columns on each side, with antce at the angles ; in the centre one end was occupied by a fish-pond and fountain, the rest was a flower garden. On two of the antse were two of the most cele- brated pictures now at Naples, the Perseus and Andromeda, and Medea contemplating the Murder of her Children. On one of the others was the well-known picture of a Dwarf leading a Monkey. At the extremity of the court is a triclinium of large size, which was closed by folding doors, the marble sockets of which are still visible. In the centre of the floor was the mosaic of the Lion crowned by young Loves with garlands of flowers. Thermop o Hum or Tavern (1832), a building so called from the number of cooking vessels, tripods, pots, and pans of bronze and earthenware which were found in it. In the room opening upon the street is a counter with 3 amphorae, .and covered with marble, beyond which opens what may be called the parlour or drinking-room of the customers. The walls were covered with licentious paintings, now hidden, from which the house has been also called the Lupanar. Two of them, however, are unobjectionable, and re- present, one a drinking scene, in which two of the men wear capotes like the fishermen of the present day ; the liquor is served in a basin like a punch- bowl, and drinking-horns are used instead of glasses. On a row of pegs above are suspended various kinds of eatables, some of them preserved in nets, and one bearing some resemblance to a string of maccaroni ; the scratches on the wall look very like the landlord’s score. The other painting represents a 4-wheeled wine cart with a curricle bar, from which the two horses are detached. The cart is filled with a huge skin, from the leg of which a man and boy are filling the amphorae. House of the Five Skeletons (1826-31), a small house, remarkable for the dis- covery of five skeletons among its ruins, with several bracelets and rings of gold, and coins of gold, silver, and bronze, not as usual lying on the pavement, but buried in the accumulated materials about 12 ft. above it. There are some paintings representing the Rape of Helen, Hector and Andromache, &c., on the walls. House of the Anchor (1826-30), so called from a mosaic of an anchor in the entrance porch. It is also called the House of Amymone and Neptune , EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — POMPEII. 215 from a painting in the room on the rt. of the prothyrum. It has a portico of large size, supported by Doric columns, and overlooking a garden decorated with niches and pedestals for statues,, and terminating in a little temple between two fountains. House of Zepliyrus and Flora (1827), a large house abutting on the Street of I the Baths, and described as the House j of the Bacchantes , and the House of the Ship , the latter from a painting at j the entrance of one of the shops which occupy the ground floor. The modern ! name is derived from a celebrated ! painting of Zephyrus and Flora, now | removed to the Museum. The walls are in better preservation than those of most other houses of this class. From their height and from the arrange- ment of the decorations, it appears to have been two stories high. Some beau- tiful paintings were found in the atrium ; one was the sitting figure of Jupiter on his golden throne, with a glory round his head. The well, with a cover of African marble, was decorated with coarse mosaics, representing two large masks, a river, and griffons. Four iron ; tires of chariot-wheels were found I among the ruins, similar to those now { in use. VIII. We now turn again to the N. by the Street of the Faun , running also from the city walls to the Street of I the Thermae, and parallel to the Street of Mercury, to examine the houses which \ remain to be noticed in this quarter of the city. House of the , Labyrinth (1882), a large building, scarcely surpassed by any other winch has been discovered. L It derives its name from the mosaic of I, Theseus killing the Minotaur, which formed the pavement of one of the principal apartments. One of the I rooms has preserved some of its fine | paintings, among which are Ariadne | and the Rape of Europa. also the House of the Great Mosaic. These names are derived from the bronze statuette of the Dancing Faun and from the great mosaic of the battle of Issus, or Gfranicus, both now in the Museo Borbonico. It is said to be the largest and most magnificent of the Pompeian houses, though little remains even of what it exhibited when first excavated. The space usually occupied by pictures was here filled with mosaics, many of which, like the Acratus of Bacchus riding on a tiger, the course of the Nile with the hippopotamus, the crocodile, the ibis, &c., have evident reference to the worship of Osiris. On each side of the atrium or entrance are representations in stucco of a peristyle, with pigmy columns, the floor paved with a handsome mosaic of triangular pieces of coloured marbles. It was chiefly in its mosaic decorations that the mansion differed from the others. In the numerous apartments were found a greater variety of furniture and domes- tic articles than in any other house which has been examined. Some of the cook- ing utensils were of silver; the bronze vessels were of unusual elegance and finish ; and the gold bracelets, neck- laces, and rings found in the apart- ments of the venereum were rich and massive beyond any other examples of Pompeian jewellery. The court be hin d the House of the Faun is one of the most extensive in Pompeii, and sur- rounded by a portico of fluted Doric columns : on one side are numerous amphorae still imbedded in the ashes which burned the city. Some skele- tons were found in one of the rooms. IX. We have completed our examin- ation of that half of the city which is comprised between the Herculaneum Grate, the street leading from it to the Forum, the Street of the Thermae, and the Street of Fortune leading to the Gate of Vesuvius. The Q.uadri- vium, formed by the intersection of the Streets of Fortune and of the Thermae, and of that leading from the Gate of Stabiae to that of Nola, was the spot of some of the earliest excavations. A few 216 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. objects have been cleared in the line of the Street of Nola on the 1., which we notice here to avoid the necessity of retracing our steps. House of the Bronze Bull , with an atrium painted with garlands of fruits and flowers. Beyond this, numerous shops and foundations of houses have been traced, showing that the street was bordered with habitations, but none of them are sufficiently excavated or interesting to detain us. About 500 ft. before we reach the gate is the House of the Infant Perseus , so called from a picture representing Da- nae with Perseus at the court of Poly- dectes, in the island of Seriphus. Shops and smaller houses (1812). — The street close to the Nola Grate, within the city, is bordered by a series of small houses and shops ; but in con- sequence of their unpromising character the excavations in this quarter were soon abandoned. Gate of Nola (1812), formerly called the Gate of Isis , a single arch still entire, 21 ft. high and 12 wide, built of rubble and brick, faced with stucco. This, like the Herculaneum Gate, was double ; but the outer portion has been destroyed, and what now remains has been rudely repaired, probably at the time when the towers were erected. The arch is evidently more ancient than these reparations. The gate is placed at a distance of nearly 50 ft. from the outer walls, so that it was approached externally by a narrow passage, the entrance of which was fortified by two towers. Another pe- culiarity is that it is not at right angles with the direction of the wall, but cuts through it diagonally in a direct line with the street. The keystone of the arch on the city side had a head of Isis sculp- tured on it, by the side of which is an Osean inscription, written from rt. to 1., stating that C. Pupidius, the Meddix- tuticus and priest of Isis, erected it. On the inner sides were chambers, supposed to have contained wooden steps which gave access to the walls. X. We now return to the Quadrivium , formed by the intersection of the Street of Fortune and that leading towards the Gate of Stabise, to examine several small houses which lie between it, the Street of the Augustals, and the Street of Fortune. First, however, we have to notice the Shops of the Quadrivium (1845). — At this junction of the four streets, as in many of the neighbouring quadrivia and trivia, numerous shops appear to have been congregated. Those exca- vated in 1845 contained a large supply of articles of merchandise. Two of them were stocked with bronze and iron utensils for cooking and other domestic purposes ; another contained blocks of marble and several statues, one of which represented the skeleton of a woman in flowing drapery, supposed to represent the Goddess of Envy. House of the Chase , in the angle be- tween the Street of Fortune and the Vico Storto , containing a large painting representing the chase of the various wild animals, lions, oxen, &c. House of the Bronze Figures , so called from the numerous figures of men and animals, and double-headed busts or Hermes in bronze, which were found in it. House of the Black Walls , so called from the delicate and graceful orna- ments on a black ground in one of the apartments, alternating with pictures representing sacrifices to Yenus, Mi- nerva, and Juno ; Cupid and Psyche, &c. House of the Figured Capitals , so called from the pilasters at the entrance with capitals representing Fauns and Bacchantes. House of the Grand Puke of Tuscany EXCURSIOXS FROM NAPLES. — POMPEII. 217 (1832). a small house, remarkable for the picture found in the principal room, representing Zethus and Amphion de- taching Dirce from the horns of the Bull, by order of Antiope, and for an elegant mosaic fountain with the mar- ble statue of a Faun. House of Ariadne, sometimes called the House of Bacchus , and of the Coloured Capitals, and extending from the Street of Fortune to the Street of the Augustals, is remarkable for the elegance of its internal arrange- ment, for the sacrarium, the garden triclinium, and several interesting paintings which were found in it, among which may be mentioned the Ariadne from which it derives its name ; Galatea on a Triton ; Apollo and Daphne ; and the Love-merchant — an old man leaning over a cage containing several Cupids, from which he draws out one by the wings, and offers it to two young females standing by bar- gaining for it, XI. A street called the Vico Storto separates this mass of buildings from a few houses excavated in recent years. It is sufficient to record their names as the House of Mercury (1845), House of the Quadriga (1845), House of Love disarmed (1844), so called from a very pretty picture of Cupid made prisoner by two girls, and a Baker's Shop (1845) . XII. We now return to the central Quadrivium formed by the junction of the Street of Nola, the Street of the Baths, and those of Mercury and of the F orum. At this point are the remains of a Triumphal Arch and Fountain , form- ing a grand entrance to the Street of Fortune, and corresponding with another arch which formed the ter- mination of the street at its junction with the Forum. At this point may be said to commence the Public Buildings and Institutions of Pompeii. First of these, at the corner of the Street of JSTola, is the Temple of Fortune (1823), a small [5. Italy.-] Corinthian temple, erected, as the inscrip- tion tells us, by Marcus Tullius the du- umvir, supposed to be a member of Ci- cero’s family, and at his own cost. The steps in front are broken by a low wall or podium supporting an altar, which was protected by an iron railing, the re- mains of which are still visible. The portico had four marble columns in front and two at the sides ; but they had either been removed after the erup- tion or destroyed by the earthquake which preceded it, as no trace of them was found. The cella is square. Be- hind the altar is a semicircular niche, containing a receptacle for the statue in the form of a small Corinthian temple. In the cella was found a female statue with the face sawed off, no doubt one of the ready made figures which were sold in this state by the Roman sculptors, in order that the features of any particular goddess might be added at pleasure. Another statue found here, and attributed to Cicero, was a full-sized figure wearing the toga of the Roman magistracy, and interest- ing as having been painted with the costly dye, a mixture of purple and violet, which appears thus early to have been the peculiar colour of the higher order of magistrates and priests. Thermae or Public Baths (1824). — This establishment is of considerable ex- tent, and has a frontage towards 3 streets. An inscription in the court, on the rt. of the entrance, records the dedication of the baths at the expense of Gnseus Ali- fius Xigidius Maior, and the games and entertainments which took place in honour of the event in the amphi- theatre, combats of animals and gla- diators, scattering perfumes, and the luxury of an awning, vela erunt , being especially mentioned. As Xero’s inter- diction of theatrical amusements did not expire till the year 69, it is in- ferred from this inscription that the dedication took place a very short time before the destruction of the city. The building is divided into 3 portions ; the 1st containing the fur- naces and fuel, the 2nd the baths for 218 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. men, the 3rd those for women. The same furnaces heated both divisions, and were supplied with water from a reservoir at a little distance, the pipes being carried across the street upon the Arch, in which their remains are still visible. Each set of baths was paved throughout with white and black marble, and arranged on the same plan, consisting of a disrobing room, a cold, a warm, and a vapour bath. Those for the men are the largest and most ele- gant. A vestibule, surrounded by a portico, led, by a corridor in which 500 terra-cotta lamps were found, into the disrobing room, apodyierium, or spoliatorium , an oblong chamber, with holes in the wall in which the clothes pegs were inserted, and with stone seats on three of its sides. The roof was vaulted and lighted at one end by a window containing a single pane of glass 3 ft. 8 in. broad, 2 ft. 8 in. high, and ground on one side, numerous fragments of which were found upon the floor. Underneath this window is a large bearded mask, in stucco, with tritons and water nymphs on each side of it. The roof was painted. Beneath the cornice is an arabesque frieze in relief on a red and blue ground, composed of griffons, chimseras, vases, and lyres resting on two dolphins. At one end of this room is a small cham- ber, supposed to be a wardrobe. At the opposite extremity is the entrance to the cold bath, or frigidarium , a circular chamber in a good state of pre- servation, stuccoed and painted yellow, with a bell-shaped roof, which was ap- parently painted blue, and lighted by a window near the top, and with four large semicircular niches in the walls around with seats. The cornice is de- corated with reliefs in stucco on a red ground, representing Cupids and war- riors engaged in a chariot and horse race. In the centre is the cold water basin of white marble, 12 ft. 10 in. in diameter, and 2 ft. 9 in. deep, with two steps in front of the entrance door, and a low seat in the middle. The warm bath, or tepidarium , is entered from the frigida- rium, and nearly corresponds with it in size. It has a vaulted ceiling painted red and blue, and covered with rich stucco ornaments in medallions, con- sisting chiefly of figures and foliage, with two very handsome medallions of Ganymede borne away by the Eagle. At one end it is pierced with a window 2 ft. 6 in. high, and 3 ft. wide, which contained a bronze frame in which four panes of glass were fastened by screws, so as to be opened or shut at pleasure. Below the cornice of the roof the wall, which is painted red, is divided into numerous niches by terra-cotta figures of Atlases, which appear to have been covered with stucco and painted. The niches are supposed to have held the oil vessels and the perfumes of the bathers. Along the sides of the room were bronze benches, three of which may be still seen behind the bronze brazier, standing upon legs in imita- tion of those of a cow, an evident allu- sion to the person whose name is in- scribed on them, M. Nigidius Vaccula, P. S. In the centre of the room is a large bronze brazier, 7 ft. long and 2^ ft. wide, lined with iron, but having bronze bars to support the charcoal ; on the front is the figure of a cow in high relief. From this chamber we pass into the vapour bath, or calidarium , the length of which, in accordance with the precept of Vitruvius, is twice its width. It terminates at one end in a semicircular niche, containing a marble basin 5ft. in diameter, which held the warm water for ablutions ; around its rim is an inscription, in bronze letters, recording its erection at the public ex- pense, and by order of the Decurions, by Gngeus Melissseus Aper and Marcus Stajus Rufus, duumvirs of justice, at the cost of 750 sesterces (61.). At the other end of the chamber is the hot bath, 12 ft. long and about 2 ft. deep, of white marble. The ceiling is composed of transverse fluting ; the cornice is sup- ported by fluted pilasters painted red. The temperature of the room was regu- lated by three windows over the niche of the vase ; these were closed by plates of bronze, by means of chains. The walls and pavement are hollow, so as to FXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES — POMPEII. 219 have allowed steam or hot air to cir- I culate freely from the furnaces, which, ! as well as a large reservoir for supplying I the baths with water, may still be ex- amined in situ on the W. side of the building. The Women s Baths are on the other side of the furnaces ; they are arranged on the same plan as those for the men, and are decorated in the same manner, but are not so large or so well pre- served. Among the objects discovered in the rooms were a money-box and a surgeon’s catheter. On leaving the ' Thermae we enter the Street of the Forum (1823), leading to the Forum, andformingthe continuation of the Street of Mercury. It is 200 ft. long and 22 ft. wide, has footpaths, and was bordered by shops, apparently of a superior class. In one of them were found articles in glass and bronze, bells, inkstands, money-boxes, dishes, steel- yards, &c., and a skeleton in the act of escaping with 60 coins, a small plate, and a saucepan of silver ; two other skeletons were found in the street. In another house were found, in 1845, in a large room on the ground floor, various articles of office furniture, with marble weights and coins of Galba and Vespasian. At the S. end, forming | the entrance to the Forum, the street was spanned by the Triumphal Arch (1823), built of brick i and lava, covered with slabs of marble, J and still retaining its massive piers ; each ;! decorated with two fluted Corinthian jl columns, with square niches between j! them, which are supposed to have con- i tained statues and fountains. It is be- lieved that this arch was surmounted l by an equestrian bronze statue, as frag- j ments both of the man and horse were I found among the ruins. The street on jl the rt. contains two shops, called I the Milk Shop and the School of Gladiators from the names over their | doorways. XIII. We here enter on the Forum , which contains the principal Temples, the Tribunals, and other public institu- tions. The Forum (1813-18) is the most spacious and imposing spot in Pompeii, occupying one of the most elevated points of the city, most of the streets that lead to it ascending from the gates; it is distant about 400 yards from the Herculaneum Gate, and at about an equal distance from the Great Theatre. It is surrounded on 3 sides by Doric columns of greyish -white limestone, 12 ft. high and 2 ft. 3^ in. in diameter. Above this colonnade there appears, from the traces of stairs, to have been a terrace. On the E. side are the re- mains of an older arcade and portico of fluted Doric columns in volcanic tufa, which had been damaged by the earth- quake and was rebuilding. The entire area was paved with slabs of limestone. In front of the columns, as well as of the portico on the S. and W. sides, are pe- destals for statues, some of which, from their size, must have been equestrian. A few of the pedestals still bear the names of distinguished inhabitants, among which are those of Pansa, Scaurus, Sallust, Gellianus, and Rufus. Several streets opened into the Forum, but were closed at night by iron gates, as is shown by the fragments of iron traceable at the entrances. Fontana’s aqueduct passes diagonally under the pavement, cutting through the sub- structions of the Temple of Venus. It is evident that the Forum was under- going an entire restoration at the time of the destruction of the city in a.d. 79, as the limestone columns around, as well as their capitals and entablature, are in an unfinished state ; large blocks of unworked marble may be seen about it, especially one of huge dimensions, and from Carrara, in the adjoining street, near the entrance to the Temple of Venus. Temple of Jupiter (1816-17), an im- posing building on an elevated base- ment at the N. end of the Forum, oc- cupying the finest site in the city, and Tj 2 220 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. from its elevated position commanding a magnificent view over Vesuvius, the plain of the Sarno, and the Apennines that encircle it. It is built of brick and volcanic tufa, covered with white stucco. The entrance is approached by a flight of steps, flanked by pedestals for colossal statues. Exclusive of these steps the building is 100 ft. long and 43 ft. wide. In front was a square vestibule with a portico of fluted Co- rinthian columns, six in front and three at each side, which are supposed, from their diameter of 3 ft. 8 in., to have been nearly 40 ft. in height. The interior of the cella, 42 ft. by 28, is bordered on each side by a row of eight Ionic columns, which appear to have been surmounted by a second range, enclosing a gallery, and supporting the roof, as in many of the ancient basilicas. The walls were painted, the predominant colour being red. The pavement was of marble, arranged in the diamond pat- tern in the centre, with black and white mosaic on either side. The door- sill retains the holes for the bolts of the doors. At the N. end of the cella are three small chambers, behind which are the remains of a staircase which led probably to a gallery above. The Prisons (1816). A low arch in the street at the W. of the Temple leads to the Prisons, narrow dungeons without light, except what might be admitted through the iron bars of the doors. Several skeletons were found in them, some having the leg-bones encircled with the iron shackles, which may be seen in the Museum. The Public Granary , or Depository of Standard Measures (1816). Ad- joining the Prisons is a long narrow building, near which were found the public measures for corn, oil, and wine, to which it owes its name. This curious monument, now deposited in the Hall of the Inscriptions, in the Museo Borbonico, was placed here by the Duumvirs Clodius Elaccus and Harcseius Arellianus Caledus, and by a decree of the Decurions (see p. 132). ! Temple of Venus (1817), the most | magnificent of all the Pompeian tem- j pies, occupying an area of 150 ft. by ! 75, on the W. side of the Eorum — a | larger space than by any other temple j in the city. This area is surrounded by a portico, 12 ft. 2 in. wide, covered with beams of timber, and consisting ! of 48 irregular columns, originally | Doric, but converted into Corinthian by means of stucco. The walls of this portico were decorated with a series of paintings on a black ground represent- ing architectural subjects, landscapes, dwarfs, pigmies, and various relics of Egyptian superstition, suggesting the opinion that the building may have been used in later times for the worship of Osiris. The Temple itself stands upon an elevated basement, ascended by 16 steps, in front of which is a large altar covered with a slab of black lava, con- taining three places for fire, in which the ashes of the victims were discovered. On its sides are inscriptions recording the erection of the temple by M. Por- cius, Sextilius, Cn. Cornelius, and A. Cornelius, Q.uatuor Viri, at their own expense. The cella is very small, and contains nothing but the pedestal for a statue ; its pavement is in coloured marble. In the open area were found the marble statues of Venus and the Hermaphrodite of the Faun, with the head of Venus and the Diana in bronze, now in the Museum, and a mosaic border of great beauty. In a room, supposed to be the apartment of the priest, was a picture of the infant Bac- chus and Silenus playing on the lyre. An inscription found among the ruins records that Marcus Holconius Bufus, and Caius Ignatius Posthumus, duum- virs, had purchased, by a decree of the Decurions, for 3000 sesterces, the right of closing the windows, and had erected a private wall as high as the roof, to conceal the proceedings in the College of the Corporation of Venereans. The street, on which opens the temple of Venus, and leading to the Sea Gate, is one of the best paved in Pompeii : on the opposite side is EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 221 The Basilica (1817), 220 ft. long and 80 broad, occupies the S.W. angle of the Forum. It is approached by a vestibule, entered from the portico of the Forum, and still retaining the grooves in the outer piers by which it was closed with doors lowered from above. Fronx the vestibule a flight of steps leads into the interior by five entrances. The central area was open, and was surrounded by a gallery sup- ported by a range of 28 Ionic columns of large size, built of brick and tufa, covered with stucco, and forming a colonnade or aisle below, along the sides of the building. The walls were covered with stucco, painted in squares in imi- tation of coloured marbles, having a corresponding number of fluted Ionic pilasters. At the end of the building, elevated on a basement and decorated with six columns, is the Tribune for the Duumvirs or Judges, with a vault beneath, which is supposed to have been the dungeon in which the criminals before trial were confined. In front of the Tribune, between the two centre columns of the peristyle, is a square pedestal which supported a bronze statue, of which nothing but the legs were found. The remains of two other pedestals are seen at the sides, at the entrances, and in front of the portico ; the sites of fountains are also traceable. The pavement was en- tirely wanting when the building was discovered, having evidently been re- moved after the eruption ; in fact, the whole edifice bore marks of having been rifled, probably not for the pur- poses of plunder, but for the recovery of the public recordsit contained. Both the inner and the outer walls present numerous inscriptions, some in red paint, and some merely scratched with a sharp point. One of them announces ■ that C. Pumidius Dipilus was here at the nones of October, during the Consulate of M. Lepidus and Q. Ca- tulus ; 78 B.C., the year of Sylla’s death. Other inscriptions appear to be announcements of public games ; one of them gives notice that the gla- diator Festus Ampliatus, whose name occurs on the Tomb of Scaurus, will contend for the second time on May 17. Among the inscriptions scribbled under the portico were some verses from Ovid’s Art of Love. The Curiae and, JErarium (1814), at the S. extremity of the Forum, facing the Temple of Jupiter, are 3 halls of equal size, and presenting no difference of construction, being in excellent brickwork, except that the central one has a square recess and the remains of a raised basement at the end, while those at the sides have circular re- cesses. They were decorated with co- lumns and statues. The central hall, from the numerous coins found in it, is supposed to have been the JErarium or Public Treasury ; the others were probably the Cu/rioe or Courts for the meetings of the inferior or Municipal Magistrates. Souses of Championet (17S9), so called from the French General for whom they were excavated, are good specimens of the less pretentious dwellings of this ancient city. One of them has a caveedium of considerable elegance, and the other has an atrium, the columns of which were originally fluted, but were subsequently renovated by coloured stucco. In the centre of the outer court of that farthest from the Forum is a handsome marble im- pluvium, and some good specimens of mosaic pavement. The peristyle, which surrounds a small garden, has several openings for the purpose of lighting a series of subterranean chambers or cellars beneath, four of which in the shape of chimneys, in the centre of the garden ; these underground apartments were entered by an inclined passage from the street, and by a flight of steps from the peristyle. One of the dwelling apartments still retains traces of its arabesques and medallions ; but the pictures have long disappeared. Four female skeletons were discovered, with numerous gold bracelets and other articles of jewellery. From this point we return to the Forum, to complete 222 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. our examination of its E. side. At the S.E. angle, at the comer of the Street of Abundance, we find the Public School , a name given to a square building, without ornament or inscription, the use of which has not been satisfactorily determined. Cry]) to- Portions of Pmnachia (1821), or the Chalcidicum , a building of large size in the form of a basilica, 130 ft. long and 65 ft. broad, supposed to have been the Exchange of the cloth mer- chants. It had two entrances, one from the Street of Abundance, the other from the Forum. The latter had a portico of 18 columns ; the entrance in the centre was closed by folding doors, of which the sockets and bolt-holes are still visible in the marble. This was bordered by raised platforms, for the purpose, probably, of haranguing the people. The interior was divided into a large area, 130 ft. by 65, surrounded by a double gallery, a peristyle of 48 columns of white marble of beautiful workmanship, very few of which have been found, a chalcidicum or enclosed apartment at the extremity of the area entered from the side street, and a crypto-porticus, in which walls pierced . with windows have replaced the columns usually seen in the interior. These walls are painted in panels, red and yellow, with representations of flower- borders at the base. At the end op- posite the entrance is a semicircular recess which contained a statue of Concord. Behind it, in a niche in the centre of the wall in the crypto- porticus, stood the statue of Eumachia the priestess, with an inscription recording that it was erected by the dyers to Eumachia, the public priestess. On the architrave over the side en- trance is another inscription, recording the erection of the Chalcidicum, crypt, and portico of Concord by Euma- chia the priestess, daughter of Lucius, in her own name and that of her son, M. Numistrus Fronto, and at her own expense. This is a repetition of a larger inscription which was affixed to the I front of the building, but was found on the ground broken into fragments. Under the staircase leading to the upper gallery was a Thermopolium , in which ' one of the most interesting urns in the Museum was discovered. The entire building appears to have suffered se- , verely from the earthquake of a.d. 63, as it was evidently under repair at the time of the eruption. On the outer wall was a notice of a gladiatorial show, and an inscription recording that all the goldsmiths invoked C. Cuspius Pansa the JEdile. Temple of Quirinus (1817-18), for- merly known by the names of Romulus and Mercury ; a small temple, close to the Crypto-porticus on the E. side of the Forum, occupying a space 57 ft. 6 in. by 55 ft. 7 in. It stands upon a basement and is approached by a nar- row vestibule, with steps on each side leading to the platform of the cella, in the centre of which is an altar of white marble with bas-reliefs representing a sacrifice on one side and the sacrificial implements on the others. The prin- cipal figure on the bas-relief in front, and behind the priest, was long sup- posed to be Cicero. The walls are j divided into long compartments by pilasters. In front of the temple were found the fragments of an inscription recording the deification of Romulus by the title of Quirinus. Adjoining the building were the apartments for the priests, in one of which numerous amphorae were found. This edifice, which is now closed in by iron gates, has been converted into a repository of objects found in the excavations, mar- bles, weights, amphorae, &c. &c. Decurionate (1818), called also the Senaculum, or Senate House ; a large hall, semicircular, adjoining the Temple of Quirinus, with a portico of Ionic co- j, lumns of white marble. On each side of the entrance is a pedestal for statues. I In the centre of the area is an altar, and at the end is a recess with a seat for the decurions, who are supposed to have held in it their public sittings. EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 223 House of the Augustals (1818), called also the Pantheon , and the Temjple of Augustus . If these are not all mis- nomers, it would appear from the culinary paintings at the N. entrance, and from the large collection of fish- bones and other fragments of food found in the sink in the centre, that a building devoted to religious purposes was used also as a banqueting-house. It is a spacious edifice with entrances in three of its sides, the principal one from the Forum being decorated with fluted Corinthian white marble columns and pedestals for statues. The columns of the portico had been thrown down by the earthquake, and were under re- pairs at the time of the eruption. It consists on the inside of an open atrium 120 ft. by 90, with 12 pedestals placed in a circle round an altar, which pro- bably supported statues of the DU Consentes ; but as no statues were found, it is supposed that they were removed after the eruption. The back of the building is divided into three compartments, of which the central is subdivided into niches, in which were found the statues of Livia as a priestess, and of her son Drusus, now in the Museum and here replaced by casts. A statue of Augustus is supposed to have stood near them, as an arm hold- ing a globe was found in this part of the building. The extensive compart- ment on the rt. is the Triclinium, being the largest of the kind in Pompeii, having paintings on the walls, repre- senting Romulus and Remus suckled by the wolf; the corresponding com- partment on the 1. contains a raised platform, over which is a niche for a statue ; before it stands an altar covered with a slab of lava, as appears to have been generally the case, to resist the action of the fire during the sacrifices burned upon them. On the S. side of the building are 12 open recesses, supposed to be the chambers of the Augustals, and the holes for rafters prove that there were similar rooms above them. The inner walls of the building appear to have been richly decorated. Among the beautiful paint- ings found here may be mentioned. — Ulysses in disguise meeting Penelope on his return to Ithaca, Io and Epa- phus, Latona and her children, Ethra and Theseus, the Cupids making bread, donkeys working the corn-mills, and various articles of food, such as lobsters, game, fruit, wine, &c. The picture of the female painter herself holding her palette and brushes is at Naples. Near the entrance from the Forum, an Emperor seated on a pile of armour, and Roman galleys; sup- posed to allude to the victory of Augustus at Actium. Near the N. entrance was found a box containing a massive gold ring with an intaglio, 41 silver and 1036 bronze coins. Shops of the Money Changers. — In front of the building just described, and under the portico of the Forum, stood seven of these Tabernce Argen- tarice. The pedestals of some of the tables still remain. XIV. Street of the Augustals. — Having completed onr survey of the Forum, we have to notice briefly a few houses which have been excavated in the rear of the public edifices on its E. side. This district is bounded on the N. by the Street of the Augustals, called also the Street of the Dried Fruits, from the quantity of these articles found in the shops which border it. Stocks of raisins, plums, figs, and chest- nuts, a collection of hemp-seed, scales and weights, pastry-moulds, lanterns, and vases of various kinds, were found in them, and several of their entrances were ornamented with pictures. Near the corner of the street, where it joins that of Eumachia, which leads to the Street of Abundance, a beautiful figure of Bacchus pressing the juice of a bunch of grapes into a vase, with a panther at his feet, was discovered. House of Prince Henry of Holland (1844), a small house excavated in the presence of this prince. House of the King of Prussia (1822- 224 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 23), in the Street of Eumacliia, running from the Street of the Augustals to that of Abundance, a small house which derives its name from having been ex- cavated in the presence of his Prussian Majesty. Some gold bracelets, rings, bronze balances, strigils, ornaments of a bed, and a small bas-relief in marble, representing two masks and a winged horse, were the principal objects found in it. Several inns and shops of the ordi- nary character occur in this street ; among them is the shop of a soap-maker. House of Venus and Mars (1820), horn a picture it contained, called also the House of Hercules , from a picture representing his initiation in the mys- teries of a priestess. Some mosaics, sculptures, and inscriptions, in which several Pompeian names occurred, were also found in it ; but the object of greatest interest was a well 116 ft. deep, the walling of which is as perfect now as it was 18 centuries ago. The water is said to be mineral. House of Ganymede (1839), from a painting, a small house in the rear of the Crvpto-porticus of Eumacliia ; the basement is occupied by the shops which line the 1ST. side of the Street of Abun- dance. House of Queen Adelaide (1838), ad- joining the one just mentioned ; it was partly excavated in the presence of the late Queen Dowager of England. It is of moderate size, and the principal ob- jects found in it have been removed. XY. The Street of Abundance, of the Silversmiths , or of the Holconii, a broad thoroughfare leading from the S. ex- tremity of the Forum to the quarter of the Theatres, derives its first name from a Statue of Abundance which was found in the centre of the quadrivium formed by the intersection of the Street of the Theatre. The second name was derived from the plate and jewellery found in the shops which are crowded together on each side of it ; and the third from a statue of M. ITolconius Rufus on its pedestal, at the quadrivium formed by its intersection with that of Stabise, and of several other inscriptions to members of the same family, one of the most in- fluential in Pompeii. These shops, un- like the others we have described, are built in the Greek style : the doors are flanked by pilasters, and the masonry and mouldings are so skilfully arranged that they incline almost imperceptibly with the slope of the street. Many of the houses still bear the owners’ names, painted mostly with red colour in rude characters, and in some instances over the names of previous tenants imper- fectly erased. Here and there we find the name inscribed on a little white tablet on the walls, the Album of the Roman architects. Some pray for the patronage of the JEdile, and one assures him that he is worthy of it, dignus est. Another has a rude representation of the owner, a scribe, with a pen behind his ear. One house has a beautiful door- way of stone ; on the rt. wall of the ves- tibule is a painting of a monkey playing the double pipe. Another peculiarity in this street is the occurrence of marks on the - walls of some of the houses, as if they had been worn by chains. At one spot where this occurs, a piece of marble worked in the form of a sharp cone is inserted in the pavement. Geli conjectured that it was a place of punishment for slaves, and that they were drawn up the wall so that the foot only should rest upon the cone. The remains of two fountains may be traced in different parts of the street. At the end was found a skeleton, with a wire bag in his hand containing 360 silver coins, 6 of gold, and 42 of bronze ; several rings and cameos, which he was also carrying away, were found near him. The few remaining houses we have to describe lie on the S. of this street. Beginning at the end nearest the Forum, adjoining the Pub- lic School, is the House of the Wild Boar (1816), from a mosaic in the prothyrum or porch, representing a wild boar attacked EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 225 by two dogs. In the atrium are some mosaics of great beauty, one of which is supposed to represent the walls of the city. This house is a good and well-preserved specimen of the smaller residences of the ancient Pompeians. Near this is the Pharmacy , or House of the Physician , situated at the S.W. corner of the Quadrivium. The instruments discovered in this house abundantly justify its present title. They were 70 in number, and many of them were arranged in cases like those now used for the same pur- pose, and which are now deposited in the Hall of the Bronzes at the Museo Borbonico. The numerous mortars of various sizes, the wooden box still con- taining the material of pills converted into an earthy substance, the roll pre- pared for cutting into pills, the marble slabs for rolling it, and others for mak- ing ointments, all prove that the owner enjoyed an extensive practice in his profession. It now contains nothing which requires description. House of the Graces (1817), from a picture on one of its walls. On one of the walls are the remains of a painting which affords an instructive example of the drawing of the Homan painters : the colour has entirely faded, but the outline remains, cut into the plaster by some sharp instrument. The singular bronze statue of a boy with glass eyes, and some specimens of lace now in the Museum, were found in one of the apartments. XYI. The street which leads S. from the corner of this house is called the Street of the Dii Consentes , from a painting on the right wall near the angle, representing the 12 superior divi- nities, with the tutelary serpents under- neath. Juno wears a blue robe, Diana a yellow one, and Venus a pale green, more transparent than the dresses of the other goddesses. A few houses, excavated along the line of this street, may be briefly noticed : — House of Hero and Leander (1838) , a small house on the 1. hand, only partly excavated by King Lewis of Bavaria. House of A'pollo and Coronis (1813), supposed to have been the residence of a physician, from the painting which gives it name, representing the fatal love of the mother of JEsculapius. House of Adonis, or of Diana , or of Queen Caroline (1813), the 1st name being derived from a painting of Venus and Adonis ; the 2nd from a marble statue of the goddess found in one of the rooms ; the 3rd from Murat’s wife. It consists of two distinct houses communicating together, and decorated with great taste : some paintings of sea-horses gambolling are full of grace and spirit. The Corinthian atrium had the roof supported by square pillars painted with foliage to represent creep- ing plants growing from the court : the kitchen had windows opening to the street. A narrow passage leads from the atrium to another series of apart- ments, having a distinct entrance from the street, and containing in the court, instead of the ordinary triclinium, a semicircular couch of stone, the sigma of Martial. When this double house was first excavated, its walls were deco- rated with beautiful paintings, many of which perished immediately' after they were exposed to the atmosphere. For- tunately Mazois was present and pre- served a curious representation of a painter’s studio, in which all the figures were grotesques. Near this house 7 skeletons were found, with 68 gold coins of Nero, Vespasian, and Titus, 1065 silver coins, pearl ear-rings, and numerous other articles of personal ornament or domestic use. House of the TJnder-ground Kitchens, at the extremity of the street, the most southern house yet excavated, remark- able only for the arrangement of the basement, rendered necessary on this site by the rapid slope of the ground l 3 226 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.— POMPEII. towards the ancient line of the sea- shore. XVII. From this point we return to the E. block of houses of the Street of Abundance, where it meets the cross street leading to the theatre, to ex- amine the Souse of the Fm'peror Francis II. (1819), a small house at the opposite end of the island, and at the corner of the street leading to the theatre, opened in the presence of his Imperial Majesty of Austria. It has a peristyle and some wall paintings of no great in- terest. Some gold ornaments, a silver vase, a vase of bronze very delicately worked, and a terracotta statue, were the principal objects discovered in the apartments. Following the Street of Abundance to its intersection with that of Stabise on the E., are the new Thermae recently discovered. They offer nearly the same disposition as those before described (p. 217), consisting of a Spoliarium , beyond which is a furnace in a long passage: out of the Spoliarium opens the Tepidarium, with stone seats around, and painted with arabesques of Cupids, dolphins, &c. Beyond this is the Cali- darium, with a frieze of Caryatides, ships, and marine gods. At one end appears to have been the hot bath; beneath the floor are passages for hot air and vapour. Several inscriptions have been found here — one in Oscan characters, beneath a sun-dial, stating that it was raised by Atinius the quaestor from fines levied ; and another relative to the construction of the Laconicum , or vapour bath, and JDes- trictarium , the room where the scraping operation by the strigil was performed, by the Duumvirs Caius Vulius and Publius Aninius. On the N. side of these Thermae was an extensive portico or palestra. Beyond these New Thermce are the excavations now in progress, and on the continuation of the Street of Abun- dance, in the direction of the amphi- theatre, several houses have been partly opened, chiefly shops : one, a private dwelling, has a long raised, pathway or terrace in the street approached by steps, the outer wall painted with numerous inscriptions in red, to Epidius Sabinus, L. Popidius, Helvi- nius, &c. In the upper story, facing the street, and on each side of the entrance or gateway, are rooms having each 2 narrow windows, seldom met with at Pompeii ; they were closed with glass. The houses hereabouts appear to have been all rifled, from the nume- rous openings made in the walls from above. As in all the works in progress, strangers are not allowed to visit them without a special order from Naples. Souse of M. Lucretius (1847), or delle Sonatrici , in the street of Stabiae, leading from the Quadrivium of the Thermae to the Vesuvian gate. This is the most important house discovered after that of the Faun. It is a double house, of three stories, with a Frothy- rum opening into an open atrium bor- dered by the usual apartments, a tricli- nium of great magnificence, and a recep- tion-room or tablinum opening upon a garden at the back, containing a foun- tain in perfect preservation, which has been allowed to remain exactly as it was found. The atrium is paved with mosaics, and the walls of the entire building are highly decorated with paintings. In the small sleeping- rooms at the side are pictures repre- senting Cupid riding on a Dolphin, bearing a letter from Galatea to Poly- phemus ; the favourite subject of Venus fishing; a Narcissus; Victory in her car ; some Cupids swimming ; and several landscapes. The triclinium, in which the feet of the couches were found richly ornamented with silver, had three large pictures, of life size, now in the Museo Borbonico, repre- senting Hercules at the Court of Om- phale, the latter wearing the lion’s skin and holding the club of her lover ; the boy Bacchus with Silenus on a cart drawn by oxen, and followed by Bac- chantes ; and a bacchanalian proces- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES — POMPEII. 227 sion, with Victory recording on a shield the exploits of the triumphant demi- god. The tablinum is paved with co- loured marbles, arranged in checquers, and the charcoal fragments still visible in the panels of its walls show that it was decorated with paintings on wood. The garden or Viridarium contains at one end a fountain adorned with mosaics, with the ‘leaden pipes which brought the water to it still well pre- served, with their bronze cocks ; and a small marble statue of Silenus ; and in the centre an impluvium, surrounded by small indifferent statues, but curious from their variety and arrangement ; among them are, Love riding a dol- phin, a bearded satyr, a stag, a faun extracting a thorn from a goat’s foot, a goat caressing its young one lying in the lap of a shepherdess, and others. A second Triclinium opened into the Viridarium on the right. Be- hind the garden or inner court, but communicating with the house, are a second series of apartments, including an open atrium, a kitchen, and other rooms, apparently intended for the females and servants. In the court was found a four-wheeled waggon, with iron wheels, and with bronze ornaments. Several elegant vases, can- delabra, glass bottles in the form of animals, some surgical instruments, and bronze coins were found in the different rooms, which were decorated with pictures of tragic and comic scenes ; one of them represented a young actress in a mask playing the double flute, from which the house, when first excavated, derived its name. The kitchen was furnished with nume- rous culinary vessels in bronze, and still retained in many parts the traces of smoke. The second and third floors were approached by a broad staircase. Near the foot of the stairs was a picture, now in the Museum, in which a letter is introduced with the name and rank of the owner of the house on the super- scription : M. Lucretio Flam. Martis Pecurioni Pompei. Near the house of Lucretius are several shops, in which human skeletons were found; and in- scriptions — one of an office leased to a certain Proculius Pronto ; another of these shops belonged evidently to a seller of paints, his stock in trade being now removed to the Museum ; certain balls of white lead bearing the letters Attio, attioetm, probably the name of the maker. On the opposite side of the street is the house dis- covered in the presence of Pius IX. in 1849, in which were found several bronze vases, glass bottles, an iron spade, and a bas-relief of Alexander and Bucephalus, now in the Etruscan Museum at the Vatican. Souse of the Grand Pukes of Russia (1852), also in the Street of Stabise. It appears to have suffered severely dur- ing the earthquake. Remains of good paintings were found in the ruins of the atrium. A good peristyle of 10 columns occupies the whole length of the building ; the portico supporting on 3 of its sides a covered terrace. In the midst of the atrium are an impluvium in marble, and a beautiful marble table with a lustral basin beneath : upon the table stood a small statue of Hercules in bronze. Traces of subsequent search have been found in this house, and a skeleton of the person engaged in that operation, buried, as is supposed, by a falling in of the excavation he was engaged upon. Not far from the House of the Russian Prince is a Thermopo- lium, with a marble counter in which are built 9 earthen jars, and on which were found gold and silver coins of the reigns of Claudius, Vespasian, and Titus : on the wall of the room behind are scratched the first line of the JEneid — -Alma Vilumque cano Tlo — the r’s being replaced by l’s. Returning S. and turning on the 1. to the Street of the Amphitheatre, we find on the 1. hand the Souse of Iphigenia (1854), one of the recent discoveries, and remarkable for the beauty of its peristyle, and several fine paintings, among which are Ariadne met by Bacchus, Orestes and Pylades 228 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. brought captives before Iphigenia. A beautiful bronze statuette of Apollo, now in the Museum, was found near a fountain at one angle of the peristyle. XVIII. We now proceed to the quarter of the theatres. The Triangular Forum (1764) is a triangular colonnade, with a portico of 90 columns on two of its sides, forming the piazza of the great theatre. It is about 450 ft. long on the E. side, and nearly 300 on the W. ; the third side, not completely cleared, had no portico, and appears to have been lined with small apartments. The area is entered on the X. by a propylseum or vestibule of 8 Ionic columns, raised upon two steps, with a fountain in front of one of the columns. This vestibule leads into the Doric colonnade, retaining fragments of the iron bars inserted be- tween the columns to protect it from the people. In different parts of this colonnade are three entrances to the Great Theatre, and one to the Barracks for the Troops. Parallel to the portico on this side is a long low wall, extend- ing nearly to the bottom of the trian- gular Forum ; it is terminated at the X. end by a pedestal, with the inscrip- tion M. Claudio , M. F. Marcello Pa- trono ; and at the S. end by two altars and a circular building. On the W. of this triangular Forum is the Mouse of the Fmperor Joseph II. (1767*69). — Following the Street of the Theatre, we find at its S. extremity the house which bears this name, occu- pying rather more than half of the W. side of the Triangular Forum. It was one of the first private houses exca- vated, but the rooms were refilled with earth as soon as they were examined. It appears that it was a mansion of great magnificence, of three stories, and so situated on the rising ground which overlooked the sea, that on entering the principal door, the visitor must have commanded a view of the Sorrentine shore, through the whole perspective of the interior. The S. side appears to have opened upon a garden sloping gradually down to the shore, like the villas near the Herculaneum Gate. A skeleton of a woman was found in the furnace-room of the bath. Greek Temple (1767-69), called also the Temple of Neptune or of Hercules , the most ancient building yet disco- vered, on one of the highest situations within the circuit of the walls, at a distance of 400 ft. from the old sea- line, so that it must have formed a striking object from every part of the bay. Its high antiquity is proved by the massive dimensions of its Doric columns, some fragments of which in tufa, with their capitals and bases in tra- vertine, still remain ; by the great depth and projection of the abacus ; and by the general construction of the build- ing, which more resembles that of the Temples of Paestum. It is supposed to have been erected by the earliest colo- nists. From its ruined state it is diffi- cult to define its exact plan ; but it appears to have stood upon a base- ment of 5 steps, and to have been 120 ft. long, exclusive of the steps, and 70 ft. wide. It had a cella paved with mosaics, which from the remains of a cross-wall appears to have been divided into two, with separate entrances from the X. and S. : in the former is a circu- lar pedestal, which may have served as a pedestal for a statue. The masonry was covered with stucco. In front of the steps is a curious enclosure, supposed to have contained the victims for the sacrifice, and at the side are the two altars with the remains of a smaller one between them. Beyond this enclosure are the remains of a small circular temple of 8 Doric co- lumns, which covered a puteal pro- tected by a circular perforated altar. Its use is doubtful, some supposing that it supplied the water used in the sacrifices ; others that it was an expia- tory altar marking the situation of a bidental , a spot on which a thunderbolt had fallen, and which was always held in peculiar sanctity. An Oscan in- scription was found near it recording EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 229 that Xitreb, for the second time Med- ' dixtuticus, erected it. At the W. angle of the temple is a small hemi- cycle, a semicircular seat of stone, facing the S., in which a sun-dial was ! discovered. It must have commanded ; a glorious view, extending from near la Cava to the extremity of the promon- j tory of Cape Minerva, and to the is- j land of Capri, and have been close to j the sea-wall of the city ; which will { explain the non- continuation of the por- I t-ico on this side of the Forum, which ; was closed by the walls. We have men- tioned the small apartments in this part of the enclosure. It is not clearly ascer- 1 tained whether they were the residences j of the priests or sepulchral chambers. Several skeletons were found in them, one wearing two armlets of gold, and another having on the leg a ring of bronze and one of silver, linked together. Xear them were found a sacrificial knife in silver, engraved with figures of Bac- chus and Isis, several paterae and other | vessels used at the sacrifices, and adorned with bas-reliefs of Isiac sub- jects. From these discoveries the two skeletons are supposed to be those of the priests. The Great (or Tragic) Theatre (1764), a large structure, placed on the S. slope of a hill of tufa, in which the seats were cut. Over one of the prin- cipal entrances stood the inscription now in the museum, stating that it was erected by M. M. Holeonius Rufus and Celer, ad decue Colonice. It was semi- circular and open to the air, and was lihed in every part with white mar- ble. The seats faced the S. and com- manded a fine view over the plain of the Samo and the mountains behind Stabise. The elevated position of the building, above the general level of j the city, and the great height of the outer wall, appear to have preserved it in some measure from the fate which befell the houses in the plain. The | upper part was not buried by the I ashes, and even the stage was covered with so slight a deposit, that the citi- 1 zens may, after the eruption, have re- moved all the scenic decorations, the furniture of the stage, the principal statues, and the marble lining. In spite of these spoliations, the interior is still sufficiently perfect to explain itself far better than the most elaborate descrip- tion. The general audience entered the theatre by an arched corridor on a level with the colonnade of the Triangular Forum, and descended thence into the cavea by six flights of stairs, which divided the seats into five wedge-shaped portions, called cunei. The doors of the corridor at the head of these stairs were called the vomitories. Some of the seats still retain then’ numbers and divisions and show that the space allotted to each person was lft. 3^ in. By making this the basis of a calculation, the theatre might contain 5000 persons. A separate en- trance and staircase led to the women’s gallery, which was placed above the corridor we have described, and was divided into compartments like the boxes in a modem theatre. It appears also from the fragments of iron still visible in the coping, that they were protected from the gaze of the audience by a light screen of iron- work. Below, in what we would call the pit, a semi- circular passage, bounded by a wall, called the prcecinctio , separated the seats of the plebeians horn the pri- vileged ones reserved for the eques- trian order, the Augustales, the tribunes, &c. These seats were entered by a separate passage, communicating with an area behind the scenes. The level semicircular platform in front of the privileged seats, was called the orches- tra, and upon it were placed the bisel- Ha, or bronze seats for the chief magis- trates. On each side of the orchestra are raised seats, entered from the stage, supposed to have been appropriated to the person who provided the entertain- ment. In the proscenium, or the wall which supported the stage, are seven re- cesses, in which probably the musicians were stationed. The stage, or pulpitum , appears from the pedestals and niches, which remain, to have been decorated with statues. It is a long and narrow 230 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. platform, quite disproportionate to the size of the theatre according to our no- tions of stage effect ; but it must be remembered that the scenes of a Roman theatre were very simple and revolved upon a pivot, and that the ancient drama was unassisted by those illusions of perspective which constitute the art of the modern scene painter. The wall at the back of the stage was called the scena; it has three doors, the central one circular and flanked by columns, the two side ones rectangular. Behind it is the jpostscenium , containing the apart- ments for the actors. The exterior of the upper wall of the cavea still retains the projecting stone rings for receiving the poles of the velarium or awning, by which, on special occasions, the audi- ence were protected from the heat of the sun. Several inscriptions, greatly mutilated, were found in different parts of this theatre, some of which are pre- served in the neighbouring colonnade. From the remains of one in bronze letters on the first step of the orches- tra, with a space in the middle for a statue, it appears that Holconius Rufus, son of Marcus Rufus, a duumvir, erected the theatre, a crypt, and the tribunal, and that the colony acknow- ledged his services by dedicating the statue to his honour. The metal has been removed, but the depressions in the marble which contained it are still visible. The Small Theatre , or Odeum (1796). — From the E. end -of the Great Theatre a covered portico led into the orchestra of the small one, which is supposed to have been used for musical performances. It is similar in its general arrangement to the larger theatre, but is different in form, the semicircle being cut off by straight walls from each end of the stage : and the style and execution of the work show an inferiority, which may possibly be explained by an inscription record- ing that it was erected by contract. It appears to have been permanently roofed, the same inscription describing it as the Theatrum tectum . The seats of the audience were separated by a passage from the four tiers of benches which held the bisellii. This passage was bounded on the side of the cavea by a wall, the ends of which were ornamented with kneeling Herculean figures which are supposed to have sustained lights. The parapet on the stage side of the passage, forming the back of the privileged seats, termi- nated at each end in a griffon’s leg. The pavement of the orchestra is in different coloured marbles. A band of grey and white marble runs directly across it, bearing in large inlaid bronze letters — M. Oculatius , M. F. Ferns, II. Fir. pro. ludis. The inscription probably means that he presented the pavement to the theatre. In the corridor which runs round the back of the house to give access to the seats, several inscriptions in rude Oscan letters were found upon the plaster of the walls, the work probably of some plebeian idler who could not find a seat. In the postscenium were found some fragments of a bisellium decorated with ivory bas-reliefs, and portions of its cloth cushion. This theatre is esti- mated to have held 1500 persons. The Iseon (1764-1776) is a small, but exceedingly interesting building, stand- ing on a basement in the centre of a court surrounded by a portico of Corin- thian columns, 10 ft. high, with painted shafts. The two which flank the en- trance had attached to them the lustral basins, now in the Museum, and a wooden money-box. Over the entrance was an inscription, now removed to the Museum (see p. 132), recording the erec- tion of the JEdes Isidis, by Wumerius Popidius Celsinus, at his own cost, after it had been thrown down by an earth- quake ; and his elevation by the Decu- rions to their own rank as an acknow- ledgment of his liberality. The word JEdes is here used to distinguish the building from a Temple, which was always a consecrated edifice, whereas the worship of Isis had been forbidden by a decree of the Roman Senate, b. c. 57, and was therefore only tolerated. ' The court EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 231 presents all the arrangements of the Isiac worship. In one corner is an aedicu- lum with a vaulted roof and pediment over the door, covering the sacred well of lustral purification, to which there was a descent by a narrow flight of steps. It is covered with stucco orna- ments, of figures of Isis and Harpo- crates, of Mercury, Mars, and Jupiter, with arabesques of dolphins, &c., all of inferior execution. Near it is an altar, on which were found the burnt bones of victims. Other altars are placed in different parts of the court. In a niche of the wall facing the JEdes was a figure of Harpocrates, with his finger on his lip to enjoin silence upon the worshippers in regard to the mysteries they might witness. In another part was a figure of Isis in purple drapery, partly gilt, hold- ing a bronze sistrum and a key. On the south side of the enclosure were the chambers for the priests, and a kitchen for cooking the meats they were permitted to eat. In one of the rooms a skeleton was found holding a sacrificial axe, with which he had cut through two walls, to escape from the eruption, but perished before he could penetrate the third. In a larger room behind the AEdes another skeleton was found with bones of chickens, egg- shells, fish-bones, bread, wine, and a garland of flowers, as if he had been at dinner. Other skeletons were found in other parts of the enclosure : showing that the hierophants of Isis did not desert her fane, but remained to the last. The front of the basement, on which the iEdes stands, is broken in the centre by a narrow projecting flight of steps, flanked by two altars, one for the votive offerings, the other probably for the sacred fire. In front of the cella is a portico of six Corinthian columns, having at each angle a small wing with a niche between two pilasters supporting a pediment. In these niches the Isiac tables of basalt, now in the Museum, were discovered. Behind the one on the 1. were secret steps and a side door leading to the cella. The ex- terior of the building and the portico were covered with stucco ornaments of a very ordinary character. The interior of the Sacrarium or cella is small and shallow, the entire width being occupied with a long hollow pedestal for statues, having two low doorways at the end near the secret stairs, by which the priests could enter unperceived, and deliver the oracles as if they proceeded from the statue of the goddess herself. Besides this principal statue, raised ac- cording to an inscription by L. Csecilius Phoebus, several small ones of Yenus, Bacchus, Osiris, and Priapus, were dis- covered in the cella or its precincts. The walls, also, were covered with pic- tures of the same character, many of which were of great interest as illus- trating the Isiac mysteries. Fontana’s aqueduct ran under and in front of this court. The Tribunal (1769), formerly called the Isiac Curia , and the School, is an oblong open court, 79 ft. by 57 ft., sur- rounded on three sides by a portico of Doric columns, and having two small rooms at one end. The real destination of this building has been the subject of dispute ; but it is at present generally supposed to have been the Tribunal alluded to in the inscription, and built by ITolconius. In front of the portico is a stone pulpit, with a pedestal and a flight of steps behind, from which the judge is supposed to have ascended to his seat. Beyond the Temple of Isis, and opening on the Street of Stabiae, and behind the Theatres, is Temple of JEsculapius , forming the corner of the Street of Stabiae, beyond the Temple of Isis (1766), a name given to it by Winckelmann, but sub- sequently changed for that of Jupi- ter and Juno. It is a diminutive but ancient temple, of good proportions, standing on a low basement ascended by nine steps. The cella contained the terra-cotta statues of iEsculapius and Hygeia, as large as life, now in the Museum. In the centre of the court is a large altar, the frieze of which is com- posed of triglyphs with volutes at the 232 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES — POMPEII. comers, bearing some resemblance to tliose on the Tomb of Scipio in the Vatican. Close to this is the House of the Sculptor (1798), a small house between the temple just described and the two theatres, deriving its name from the numerous articles it contained, not only identifying the building as the studio of a sculptor, but affording a most instructive insight into the prac- tice of his art in Roman times. All the important objects found here are now in the Museum. Barracks of the Troops (1766-94), a large enclosure, 183 ft. long by 148 ft. wide, filling up the space between the great theatre and the city wall, and bordered by a Doric portico of 22 columns on the longer, and of 17 columns on the shorter sides. It was formerly called the Forum Nundina- rium. The columns of the portico are covered with stucco, the lower third plain and painted red, the upper por- tion fluted and painted alternately red and yellow. Under the portico are numerous apartments of uniform size for the lodgment of the soldiers, a mess-room, a guard-house or prison, a kitchen supplied with the necessary conveniences for cooking, stables for horses, an oil-mill, a room for making soap, and other minor offices. Above was a second floor, approached by three narrow flights of steps, and by one of better construction leading to the chambers which were probably occu- pied by the officers. This upper floor had a hanging wooden gallery under the roof of the portico, of which so many indications remained upon the walls, that it was formerly occupied by the hotel, now removed to near the sea-gate. When first excavated, every part of these barracks exhibited reminiscences of military life. On the surface of the 9th column of the east- ern portico various inscriptions and drawings were found, rudely scratched upon the stucco, including the figure of a fighting gladiator, with his name “Valerius,” and the numerals to denote that he had been twenty times victori- ous. Other scribblings and rude sketches, with several unfinished sen- tences, were observed in some of the public rooms ; and on the wall near the small theatre the names of the three principal gladiators, Pomponius Faus- tinus, Ampliatus, and N. Popidius Rufus, were found inscribed. On the walls of the principal apartment on the ground-floor were paintings of two trophies, one of which still exists in the Museum. In the guard-room were found 4 skeletons with their legs fastened into iron stocks ; the latter have been removed to Naples and re- placed by a model ; but the skulls have been allowed to remain. In the sleep- ing apartments numerous helmets of bronze and iron, richly ornamented sword-belts of bronze, greaves for the legs, shields, bolts for the archers, lances, swords, strigils, leather belts, and various minor articles were discovered. In the officers’ rooms on the upper floor were found helmets of various kinds, some with vizors, others inlaid or covered with exquisite bas-reliefs, greaves adorned with sculptures of the same kind, swords of superior work- manship with ivory handles, and nume- rous articles of female dress and deco- ration, of the richest kind, proving that the families of the officers lived in the barracks with them. Among the ornaments were two necklaces of mas- sive gold, one of which was set with emeralds, several gold finger-rings, ear-rings, and bracelets containing pre- cious stones, gilt pins for the hair, and chests of fine linen and cloth of gold. One of these upper rooms contained 18 skeletons of men, women, and chil- dren, one of an infant, and several of dogs. In a stable near the foot of the staircase was found a skeleton of a horse, the remains of harness with bronze ornaments, and the hay stuffing of a saddle. Under the stairs was the skeleton of a man carrying cups of silver. Inside one of the entrance gates 34 skele- tons were found together, those, doubt- less, of the guard who had been called out on the fatal night. The total EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POMPEII. 233 number of skeletons found in the bar- racks was 63, a remarkable and affecting proof of the discipline of the Boman soldier. XIX. At the distance of about 600 yards from the Barracks and the Theatres is the Amphitheatre (1748-1816), in the S.-E. angle of the city walls, occupy- ing nearly all the space between the gate leading to Nocera and that to the Sarno. It is more recent, smaller, and less perfect hi the sub- structions of the arena than that of Capua, but more ancient than the Coli- seum of Borne, which was not completed till the year after the destruction of Pompeii. Its form, as usual, is ellip- tical. The major axis, including the walls, is 430 ft., being 190 less than that of the Coliseum ; the minor axis is 335 ft., 178 less than that of the Coliseum. It has fewer substructions than usual in such edifices. The ma- sonry is the rough work called opus incer- tum , with quoins of squared stone; the marble plates must have been removed after the eruption, and nothing of a decorative kind is now visible except a few sculptured key-stones of little interest. The interior contained 24 rows of seats, separated into different ranges, according to the rank of the occupants, each range being approached by a distinct entrance from two different galleries, of which the large one had no less than 40 vomitories, communicating with as many flights of stairs which divided the seats into cunei. To facili- tate this arrangement, the arches of entrance were numbered ; and the tickets of admission, as may be seen in two examples in the Museum, bore corre- sponding numbers, so that the specta- tors could proceed at once to their appointed seats without confusion. The lower range, containing the privileged seats of the Magistrates, was entered by the arcade of the arena ; the 2nd, containing the seats for the middle classes, was reached by stairs placed between them and the outer wall ; the 3rd, appropriated to the plebeians, was approached likewise by stairs, as was also a gallery placed above all and divided into boxes for the women. Outside the wall of this gallery are the perforated stones for the poles of the velarium. The privileged seats were separated from the arena by a parapet, on which numerous inscriptions were found, recording the names of the Duumviri who had presided over the games, together with several paintings of gladiatorial scenes, all of which have perished or been removed. The en- trances at each end of the arena, for the admission of the gladiators and wild beasts and for the removal of the dead, are still perfect. From a careful measurement of the seats, it is calcu- lated that it could accommodate 10,000 persons, exclusive of standing room. This fact, taken in connection with the statement of Dion Cassius, that the citizens were assembled here at the outbreak of the eruption, will explain the small loss of life, compared with the extent of the population, which the catastrophe appears to have occasioned. The audience, on quitting this amphi- theatre, finding themselves cut off from the rest of the city by the falling ashes, appear to have made their escape. The amphitheatre, 20 years before, had been the scene of that sanguinary fight be- tween the people of Nocera and the Pompeians, which induced Nero to de- prive the latter of theatrical amusements for 10 years. Forum Foarium (1754), a large square area N. of the amphitheatre, supposed to have been a cattle-market. It was covered up as soon as it was excavated. Villa of Julia Felix (1754-55), a square enclosure adjoining the Forum Boarium, one of the first objects ex- cavated, but covered up again according to the practice of that time. An in- scription was found among the ruins announcing that the owner, Julia Felix, was ready to let for 5 years, a bath, a venereum, and 90 shops with terraces and upper chambers. In returning from the Amphitheatre by the car- 234 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. CASTELLAMMARE. riage-road, the visitor will be able to examine the gate leading to Stabise, constructed of massive blocks of tufa, like those on the side of Herculaneum and Nola. We have now completed our survey of the city. In the course of our de- scription we have had occasion to notice works of art of the highest interest in architecture, sculpture, and painting, and to record the discovery of objects which have made us familiar with the religion, the public institutions, the amusements, and the inner life of a people remarkable as much for their intelligence as for their luxury and magnificence. One thing, however, has been wanting; nothing has yet been found which will throw any light on the literature or the studies of the people. No library of papyri has been found like that of Herculaneum ; no inscriptions, except dedicatory ones, have been met with, save a few lines from Ovid on the walls of the Basilica, and the name of JEschylus on a bone ticket of admission to the theatre. It is, nevertheless, impossible to believe that a city like Pompeii was destitute of libraries. Nearly three-fourths of the area yet remain to be examined, and we may hope that some long-lost literary treasure may be brought to light by future excavations. II. CASTELLAMMARE, SORRENTO, CAPRI, AMALEI, NOCERA, CAVA, SALERNO, PjESTUM, THE LUCANIAN COAST. Castellammare (18,000 Inhab. — Inns : Gran Bretagna , very good ; Antica Stabia , tolerable : they are both on the sea-shore; Albergo Beale , or the Villa Bocca/pianola , on the slope of the hill, indifferent, but an agreeable and cool summer residence). — Excellent donkeys, better than in any other place round Naples, can always be hired, by the month 15 ducats, by the day 6 carlini, by the excursion to Lettere or Pimonte, &c., 4 carlini, exclusive of the buonamano to the guide. A ride to Gfragnano, Quisisana, Monte Coppola, or Pozzano, costs 2 carlini. Castellam- mare is much frequented in summer, but is perhaps less agreeable than other places on the shores of the Bay of Naples, except for those who go there for society. Castellammare, the chief town of a distretto of the Provincia di. Napoli, is situated on the lower slopes of Monte < d’Auro, an offshoot from the limestone range of Monte Sant’ Angelo. It is built, for the most part, along a shel- tered beach, commanding an extensive view of the Bay from Vesuvius to Misenum. The position of the town pro- tects it from the east winds. It arose from the ruins of Stabice , which was first destroyed by Sylla in the Social War, and was afterwards overwhelmed by the eruption of Vesuvius in a.d. 79. The excavations made upon the site of the ancient city have been filled up : several fragments of sculpture, some illegible papyri and paintings, and a few skeletons, were discovered by Charles III. in 1745. No excavations have since been undertaken. The high ground on the 1. as the town is entered, is the position of ancient Stabise, which probably extended from the sea to some distance inland, for numerous remains have been traced almost as far as G-ra- gnano. After its destruction by Sylla, Stabise ceased to be mentioned as one of the maritime cities of Campania, and the site appears to have been partially covered by the villas of the Homans, who were attracted to the spot by its mineral waters and the salubrity of the climate. At Stabice the elder Pliny lost his life, during the eruption which de- stroyed Pompeii. Having been unable to approach the shore at Retina , he t landed at Stabise, at the villa of his friend Pomponianus, and was so little discomposed as to fall into a deep sleep. “ The court that led to his apartment,” says Pliny the younger, EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. CASTELLAMMARE. 235 “ being now almost filled with stones and ashes, if he had continued there any longer, it would have been impos- sible for him to make his way out : it was thought proper, therefore, to awaken him. He got up and went to Pomponianus and the rest of his com- pany, who were not unconcerned enough to think of going to bed. They con- sulted together whether it would be most prudent to trust to the houses, which now shook from side to side with frequent and violent concussions ; or fly to the open fields, where the cal- cined stones and cinders, though light indeed, yet fell in large showers and threatened destruction. In this dis- tress, they resolved for the fields, as the less dangerous situation of the two ; a resolution which, while the rest of the company were hurried into it by their fears, my uncle embraced upon cool and deliberate consideration. They went out then, having pillows tied upon their heads with napkins; and this was their whole defence against the storm of stones that fell around them. It was now day everywhere else, but there a deeper darkness prevailed than in the most obscure night ; which, however, was in some degree dissipated by torches and other lights of various kinds. They thought proper to go down further upon the shore, to observe if they might safely put out to sea ; but they found the waves still run extremely high and boisterous. There my uncle, having drunk a draught or two of cold water, threw himself down upon a cloth which was spread for him, when imme- diately the flames, and a strong smell of sulphur, which was the forerunner of them, dispersed the rest of the com- pany, and obliged him to rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of his servants, and instantly fell down dead ; suffocated, as I conjecture, by some gross and noxious vapour, having always had weak lungs, and being frequently subject to a difficulty of breathing. As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day after this melancholy accident, his body was found entire, and without any marks of violence upon it, exactly in the same posture that he fell, and look- ing more like a man asleep than dead.” Lib. vi, Lp. 16. The Convent of Pozzano , founded by Gronsalvo de Cordova in the 16th cent., occupies the site of an ancient temple j of Diana. The wooden cross in front j of it stands on an ancient altar, dis- covered in 1585. The ch. contains an image of the Madonna found in a well in the 11th cent., and held in much veneration by the peasantry of the dis- trict. The declivities of the hill above the town are shaded by copses of chestnut trees, which afford delightful rides during the summer. In the lower out- skirts of the wood lie scattered many pretty villas, the property of Prince Lieven, Baron Rothschild, and others ; several of which are let to strangers for the summer. Among them, agreeably situated overlooking the town, is the Royal Casino, which stands on the site of a house erected by Charles II. of Anjou, who called it Casa Sana , from the salubrity of its climate. Ladis- laus and his sister Joanna II. often made it their residence during the plagues of Naples. Ferdinand I., of Bourbon, modernised the edifice, and acknowledged the benefit which his health derived from this delicious re- sidence by changing its name to Qui-si- sana. The grounds around are inter- sected with paths leading to the summit of Monte Coppola , a conical hill clothed with chestnut-trees, and commanding fine views of the Bay. The royal do- main, embracing the extensive forest, descended to the Bourbons of Naples from the Farnesc family, whose ancestor Pier Luigi purchased the fief of Ca- stellammare for 50,000 ducats, and presented it to his son Ottavio, when the latter married Margaret, a natural daughter of Charles Y. The Castle , from which the town derived its name, was erected by Fre- derick II., surrounded with walls and towers by Charles I., and strengthened by additional fortifications by Alfonso I. Beatrice, the daughter of Manfred, 236 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CASTELLAMMARE. and sister of Constance queen of Ara- gon, was confined in it after the battle of Benevento ; but was released by the admiral, Ruggiero di Loria, after his victory over the squadron of Charles I. in 1284, when Prince Charles, the king’s son, fell into his hands. On the 23rd June, 1287, the same admiral gained a greater victory on this coast over the Angevine fleet, equipped against Sicily by the Count d’ Artois, in the name of Charles II., who, though still a prisoner in Catalonia, had been proclaimed as the successor of Charles I. Castellam- mare was sacked in 1461 by the army of Pius II. in aid of Ferdinand of Aragon ; and in 1654 by the Due de Guise. The Port , which is protected by a small mole with 3 or 4 fathoms of water, is secure. It contains a royal arsenal and dockyard, where the large ships of the Neapolitan navy are built. The spacious quay was constructed by the French, and enlarged by Ferdinand I. The Bay, bounded on the N. W. by Capo Bruno, and on the S.W. by Capo d’ Orlando, is deep, with a sandy beach. At a short distance from the shore off the mouth of the Sarno, is a very small rocky island, with a fort, called Revi- gliano. Mineral Waters. — The mineral waters of Castellammare, which have been ex- tolled by Galen, Pliny, and Columella, are still held in high repute by the Neapolitan physicians on account of their efficacy in rheumatic, paralytic, and gouty affections ; from the facility of access from the metropolis, there is no watering-place more resorted to in the kingdom. Another circum- stance connected with its climate, which gives it an advantage over most other towns in the Bay, except Sor- rento, is the temperature, which is lower than that of Naples by about 8° during the day, and by 10° or 12° at night. The mineral waters flow from the base of Monte d’Auro, and are, with one exception, within a short dis- tance of each other. Their temperature is moderate, seldom exceeding 65° Fahr. They were analysed a few years ago by a scientific commission, consisting of Professors Sementini, Vulpes, and Cassola. To their report, and to the ‘ Medical Topography of Naples,’ by Dr. Cox, we refer the reader for more ample details than we can give in this place. There are 12 springs : — 1. Acqua Ferrata , a mild chalybeate, in some respects similar to that of Tunbridge Wells. It rises at the commencement of the Strada Cantieri. 2. Acqua Fossa , a mild chalybeate^ with a small proportion of saline matter. It rises also in the Strada Cantieri. 3. Acqua Ferrata del Pozzillo , the strongest of the clialybeates, containing a larger proportion of iron than the waters of Toplitz, with carbonic acid gas, and a large proportion of salts. It is in repute in cases of general debility. 4. Acqua Ferrata Nuova, a recently discovered chalybeate of a mild character, much used for weak eyes and external appli- cation. 5. Acqua Acidola , one of the springs described by Pliny, under the name of Acqua Media , which is now given to the next. It is analogous to the waters of Spa and Pyrmont, and derives its modern name from the acid taste caused by the predominance of carbonic acid gas, with small propor- tions of saline matter. It is used in cal .. culous complaints. It rises in a maga- zine in the Strada Cantieri. 6. Acqua Media , a saline acidulous water, with a large proportion of carbonic acidgas ; it resembles a good deal that of Seltzer, but is more agreeable. It is much used in affections of the stomach and digestive organs, and externally in baths for cu- taneous diseases. It rises opposite the gate of the Arsenal. 7. Acqua della Spaccata, resembling Acqua Media, but it is more saline, and emits a smell of sul- phuretted hydrogen. 8. Acqua Nuova del Muraglione , a very useful water, having some analogy to that of Chelten- ham; but containing more saline matter and carbonic acid gas. It rises under the road which leads to the convent of Pozzano. 9. Acqua Solfureo-Ferrata,& peculiar combination of a chalybeate and saline with a sulphureous water, with a EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CASTELLAMMARE. 237 large proportion of carbonic acid gas. It is used both internally and externally. It issues in a garden near Acqua della Spaccata, and diffuses an odour of sul- phuretted hydrogen over the whole place. 10. Acqua Solfurea del Mu- raglione , analogous to that of Harrow- gate, but more active on account of its large proportion of saline ingredients. It is in high repute in cases of gout, visceral obstructions, and cutaneous diseases, and is celebrated among the I Italians for its power of relieving obesity. It rises about 100 yards outside the town, and 50 from the sea. 11. Acqua j della Rogna , a water containing traces i of sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic ' acid gas, with saline matter. It is much I, used in cutaneous affections ; hence the j name by which it is designated. 12. Acqua della Tigna , similar to the pre- ceding, and used for the same class of j diseases. Manyinteresting and short excursions can be made by those who sojourn at Castellammare. We shall only notice a few of them : 1. Gragnano (10,500 Inhab.), well , known for its manufactures of macca- i roni and its red wine. A road 2 m. I long leads to it from Castellammare. 2. Lettere , beautifully placed on the J flanks of the mountain, 3 m. beyond G-ragnano, by a bridle-road. It pre- serves in its name a memorial of the epithet Lactarii , given once to these mountains. It was formerly the seat | of a bishop, but its ch. has nothing re- 1 markable. The hill is crowned by its ruined and picturesque castle, once the I stronghold of the Miroballi, which com- | mands an extensive and lovely view of the Bay and of the plain from Nocera to the foot of Vesuvius, and the moun- tains of Sarno and Nola. 3. Monte Sanf Angelo , or St. Angelo a tre Pizzi , the Mons Gaums, is the central group of tha t ridge of mountains called by the ancients Montes Lactarii , from the richness of their pastures and the excellence of their milk. The high- 1 est peak of the Sant’ Angelo, 4722 ft. 1 high, is usually ascended from Castel- | lammare on mules or donkeys. The ascent takes about 5 hrs., and only 3 the descent, which can be varied by coming down on the Vico side, and driving from thence to Castellammare. On reaching a high plateau, called the Rijpiano di Faito, the path traverses a fine old beech forest, in which are the snoiv-pits that supply in part the town of Naples with ice in summer. On the summit, which is the highest point round the Bay of Naples, there is a small chapel, where water can be ob- tained. But before starting from Cas- tellammare it is necessary to procure the Tcey of the door leading to it. The magnificent view that it commands extends from Mount Circello beyond Terracina, and the Meta on the frontier of the Abruzzi to Mount Terminio, be- yond Avellino, to the Alburnus E. of Psestum, and the mountains that stretch from the Cilento and the Gulf of Poli- castro towards Calabria, including the whole expanse of the bays of Naples, Gaeta, and Salerno. Many other beautiful rides, especially one leading by Gragnano, or Pimonte, to a very large and old cypress-tree, will be easily pointed out by the donkey drivers. Castellammare is also conveniently situated as a central point from which excursions may be made along both shores of the Sorrentine promontory. For the various routes to Amalfi, see page 250. An interesting excursion may be made from Castellammare, by combining Amalfi, Salerno, and Pses- tum with a visit to Sorrento. In fine weather the excursion may be pleasantly varied by returning from Salerno or Amalfi by water to the Scaricatoio, whence Sorrento may be reached by the pedestrian in little more than 2 hrs. The road of 9 m. from Castellammare to Sorrento is one of the finest drives in this beautiful region. It is carried boldly along the cliffs which in many places rise perpendicularly from the sea, and, like the mountains behind, are of limestone, which forms the funda- mental rock of the Bay of Naples. This limestone exhibits no indications of igneous action ; but in several ravines 238 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. PIANO DI SORRENTO. tlie geologist will observe that the vol- canic tufa has frequently insinuated itself. The old pathway or mule-track over the mountains between the two towns is even richer than the coast-road in natural beauty. On leaving Castellammare the road passes below the Convent of Pozzano, and traverses the headland of Capo d’ Orlando, which gives its name to the victory gained on this coast by Kug- giero di Loria, July 14, 1299, who commanded the fleet of James II., King of Aragon, against that of his brother Frederick II., King of Sicily, com- manded by Federigo Doria. The Sicilian fleet was almost annihilated, and Fre- derick narrowly escaped being made prisoner. Some curious species of fossil fishes, of the oolitic period, are found in the limestone which forms this head- land. The three rocks which are such conspicuous objects off the coast are called the Three Friars, Li Tre Frati. Vico. Four m. from Castellammare, and separated by a ravine, are the small towns of Vico and Equa , forming one united comune under the name of Vico Equense , recalling the Vicus JEquanus of the Eomans. The road traverses Vico, on a rocky eminence, surrounded by olive-groves, which produce excel- lent oil. It was built by Charles II. on the ruins of the ancient city which had been destroyed by the Groths, and was the favourite residence of that monarch and of other kings of Naples. The Cathedral contains the tomb of Gae- tano Fila/ngieri, the author of the Scienza della Legislazione. During the resi- dence of Charles II. at Vico the am- bassadors of Philip le Hardi arrived from France to demand the hand of the princess Clementia for his third son, Charles of Valois. The ambassadors, at the request of the Queen of France (Mary of Brabant), were accompanied by their wives, who were charged by her Majesty to examine the young princess, and ascertain if she had any personal defects, as her father, Charles II., had been lame from birth. The Queen of Naples considered this inquiry derogatory to her daughter, and endea- voured to evade it, but at length con- sented to allow the princess to submit, on condition that she should be covered with a delicate robe of silk tissue. The wives of the ambassadors not appearing to be contented with this inspection, Clementia exclaimed in Latin, Non amitta/m regnum Gallice 'pro ista in- terula, and, throwing off the robe, satis- fied the ladies that she was worthy of being the wife of a French prince. She was the mother of Philip VI., who was defeated by the Black Prince at the battle of Crecy. Beyond Vico the road crosses a deep ravine by a massive bridge on a double row of arches. Soon after, pedestrians fond of romantic scenery may send on the carriage, and follow a steep path on the 1. which ascends to the village of Albero , and thence descending on the opposite side of the hill, and affording beautiful views of the Fiano di Sor- rento , rejoins the road near the ch. of Meta. From the bridge, leaving on the rt. the Marina of Seiano , a pretty village with a picturesque Martello tower, and some houses with arcades and flat roofs, the road ascends, amongst vineyards and olive plantations, the Punta di Scutolo. From this high point the road descends to Meta by a terrace cut along the steep side of the hill, from which we look down upon the whole PIANO DI SORRENTO. The Piano di Sorrento , on which we enter at Meta, is an irregular plain of about 3 m. in length, nearly 300 ft. above the level of the sea, and pro- tected by an amphitheatre of hills from the E. and S. winds, to both of which nearly all the other places in the Bay of Naples are more or less exposed. It is intersected by numerous ravines or picturesque winding gorges, which are worn deep by the torrents from the neighbouring mountains, and are fre- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. SORRENTO. 239 quently covered, where there is suffi- ) cient soil, with oranges and olives. The peculiar position of the plain gives it all | the advantages of the climate of Naples with few of its defects ; its atmosphere j is generally pure and dry, tempered at times by a regular land and sea breeze. In addition to its fine climate, the villas and farms which are profusely scattered over the plain are rich in orange groves and vineyards, presenting to the eye the appearance of one vast i garden, in which the pomegranate, the midberry, the fig, and the apple are mingled with the aloe, the olive, the carouba, the acacia, and the service tree. All these advantages combine to render it in itself delightful ; and it is, consequently, not surprising that a spot, I peculiarly agreeable after the noise and heat and bustle of Naples, should have become so popular among English tra- vellers as a summer residence. Its salu- brity was fully appreciated by the Roman physicians. The Emperor Antoninus Pius was sent here by G-alen for the j benefit of his health ; Augustus resided i here for the same purpose ; Marcus Agrippa and Pollius Felix had villas in ! the plain, and the magnificence of the latter has been recorded in the verses of . Statius. Bernardo Tasso describes the j air as being so serene and temperate that man almost becomes immortal j| under its influence. Its wine was praised by Pliny, and by several poets. j Inde legit Capreas, promontoriumque Minervas, f Et Surrentinos generosos palmite colies. Ovid. Met. xv. ?09. Surrentina bibis ; nec murrhina picta, nec aurum Sume ; dabunt calices base tibi vina suos. Martial. X. cx. I Surrentina vafer qui miscet fasce Falema I Vina, columbino limum bene colligit ovo ; I Quatenus ima petit volvens aliena vitellus. Hor. Sat. n. iv. 55. The Piano has many towns and vil- 1 lages scattered over it, the most im- portant of which are : Meta , at the E. extremity, just below the Punta di Scutolo, a clean and thriv- 1 ing town with two small ports, though I many of its old arcaded palaces are in I decay. The church of the Madonna del Lauro , before which the road passes, is supposed to occupy the site of a Temple of Minerva, and is remarkable for the venerable olive-trees which grow in front of it. The deep ravine of Meta, one of the most striking chasms which intersect the plain, is crossed by the Ponte Maggiore , near which an ancient cemetery has been discovered. Car otto , the most populous town of the Piano, stretching almost in a straight line from the hills to the Marina di Cassano , which carries on an active trade with Naples. Pozzopiano is the next village the road passes through, but it has nothing remarkable except its rich orange gardens. Sanf Agnello takes its name from a large ch. dedicated to that saint. Be- fore entering it is the small Albergo de* Fiori, good and very cheap. About ^ m. on the rt. of S. Agnello, near the sea-shore, is the Hotel de la Cocumella , good, and remarkable for the fine views from it. It was formerly a convent of Jesuits. Beyond S. Agnello the road passes on the 1. the Villa Guarracino on the slope of the hill, commanding a noble view of the coast. It is now an hotel deservedly called Bellevue , kept by the Gargiulos. Beyond it, also on the 1. of the road, is a house, which is supposed to occupy the site of a Temple of Venus. The court contains a large myrtle-tree, which it does not require any extra- ordinary exercise of faith to regard as the descendant of those which were planted here in Grecian times, as sacred to the goddess. Soon after the road reaches the town of SORRENTO. Inns: La Sirena and V Albergo del Tasso , comfortable hotels : they are near each other on the cliff overhanging the sea, and are kept by the brothers Gargiulo ; the charges about the same 240 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — SORRENTO. as at Naples. There are hot and cold baths in the houses, and a private walk leads to the sea-shore, where boats are kept for the convenience of visitors who wish to make excursions to Capri, Amalfi, or other places in the neigh- bourhood. — The Albergo Rispoli , a new establishment, consisting of two houses just outside the town. One of them overlooks the sea, and has been erected upon ancient foundations, remains of which, like the seats of a theatre, are still to be seen. This hotel is also most comfortable, and charges the same as at the Sirena. The Villa Nardi , kept by Tramontano, whose wife is an English- woman, overlooking the sea, good, and with more moderate charges. The Co- rona di Ferro in the town, tolerable and cheap. The Rosa Magra and the Pa- rigi , indifferent. Furnished Villas and Apartments may be found in great abundance, varying of course in price according to the situation and accommo- dation required. As some guide to the traveller, we may mention that the Villa Correale , with a very extensive orange garden and beautiful view, the Yilla Santa Severina, and the Villa SerraCa- priola in the Piano, with a good garden and access to the sea, let generally at from 80 to 100 ducats a month ; the Villa Spinelli, for 50 ; besides many others at the same or at a lower rate. A single suite of apartments ranges from 30 to 40 ducats a month. With regard to Provisions, the oranges and the figs and honey are delicipus ; we have Boccac- cio’s authority for the excellence of the veal ; the pigs are considered to justify their title of Cittadini di Sorrento ; fish is abundant and cheap ; the agreeable wine of Conti costs ordinarily 2 ducats a barrel ; but since 1852 the crop has been destroyed by the vine disease ; the milk and butter are excellent. Erom the milk clotted cream and cream cheese are made, as well as a favourite dish called Giuncata (from giunco , a rush), recalling both in name and in reality the junket of Devonshire and Cornwall, which appears from this to have had an Italian origin. — Carriages , saddle- horses, mules , and donkeys , may be had at the Sirena , and at many other places. A light carriage, which is here usually drawn by 3 little horses abreast, costs 4 ducats a day. The hire of a mule is 10 carlini for the day and 6 carlini for half a day, A mule for the ascent of Monte Sant’ Angelo costs 24 carlini ; for an excursion to Massa, Sant’ Agata, and Capo della Campanella 10 ; for an excursion to Arola, Santa Maria a Ca- stello, and the Camaldoli, 8 ; to the Conti delle Fontanelle, and the Arco Naturale, 4 ; for the ride to the Scarica- toio, on the route to Amalfi, 6; exclu- sive of the buonamano of one carlino to the guide. The hire of a donkey is 6 carlini a day, and 3 carlini for the half ! day. — Boats. The hire of a four-oared boat is 3 ducats a day ; of a six-oared one 4 piastres ; of a six-oared boat to Capri and back, or by the day, from 4 to 5 piastres ; of a four-oared boat to Capri or Amalfi, without returning, 2 piastres ; of a six or eight- oared boat to Naples, with luggage, 7 ducats. A market boat leaves Sorrento for Naples daily ; the fare is only 2 carlini, exclu- sive of the trifle which each passenger is expected to drop into the box which is handed round during the voyage to purchase masses for the souls in pur- gatory ! Dr. Bishop, an English phy- sician settled at Naples, generally spends the summer at Sorrento. Sorrento, an episcopal city of 5700 Inliab., has been likened by a recent tra- veller to “ a well-sung poem that opens modestly and improves on acquaint- ance.” Its situation and the approach to it are extremely picturesque. On three sides it is surrounded by a ravine 200 feet deep, and from 30 to 40 broad, and on the fourth it rises from the pre- cipices which run out into the sea. It is surrounded by high walls of mediaeval architecture, which are now fast falling into decay. Entering the town from the E. we cross the deep ravine which forms, as it were, the ditch of the fortress, by a bridge resting on double arches, of which the foundations at least are of Eoman construction. The gateway is surmounted by a statue of S. Antonino, the patron saint, who is said to have EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. SORRENTO. 241 saved the town from Sicardo, Prince of Beneventum, when he besieged it in 836, by the argumentum ad baculum , in other words, by administering to him a sound thrashing with a cudgel. The Cathedral, said to occupy the site of an ancient temple, contains an episcopal chair, the canopy over which is supported by two marble pillars, one being of giallo antico found among the ruins of an ancient temple. At the entrance are several bas-reliefs ; one represents the seven wise men, another the battle of the Amazons, a third the Rape of the Sabines. The ancient city was the Surrentum of the Romans and the Syrentum of the Greeks, who preserved the ancient name which commemorated its con- nection with the Syrens, an antiquity which may be considered modest, com- pared with that claimed for it by its re- verend historian, who declares that it was founded by Shem, the son of Noah ! There is reason to believe that part of it was destroyed by an irruption of the sea in the catastrophe which overwhelmed Pompeii ; for many substructions are now visible below the cliffs on which the present town is situated, while an ancient road and extensive masses of masonry are completely covered by the water. Surrentum became a Roman colony in the reign of Augustus, and was resorted to, in imperial times, on account of its salubrious climate. In the middle ages it was an independent republic, but it subsequently fell under the power of the Dukes of Naples, and shared the fortunes of that city. The Antiquities consist of the sub- structions of a building on the cliff under the Yilla Maio, called the Temple of Ceres ; some corridors excavated in the cliff beneath the Cocumella, called by some the Temple of the Syrens , by others the Caves of Ulysses ; an arch supposed to have formed part of a Temple of Neptune ; some masses of reticulated brickwork, called the Temple of Her exile s ; three or four baths; the remains of the Villa of Pollius Felix , the Mend of Statius, who has described its situation and sung its praises in the IS. Italy.'] 2nd book of the Sylvce ; some arches and corridors, supposed to be the ruins of an amphitheatre ; bas-reliefs and inscriptions affixed to the walls of the churches ; and the piscina , which was repaired by Antoninus Pius, and still serves as the reservoir for the water, which is brought into the town by an aqueduct from the mountains. It is known for the musical echo of its vaults. In the centre of the town is an Egyptian kneeling figure of black marble, with an inscription of the reign of Sethos, the father of Rhamses II. of the 18th dynasty, or more than 15 cen- turies before the Christian era, and one of the best periods of Egyptian art. Erom this catalogue of antiquarian objects, many of which are names and little more, it is a relief to turn to the House of Tasso. It is situated on a cliff overlooking and washed by the sea, Avhose encroachments have so much undermined it that the chamber for- merly shown as that in which Tasso was born has disappeared. The pre- sent mansion, which is now fitted up as the Albergo del Tasso , retains, pro- bably, few material traces of the original house; a mutilated bust in terra cotta on one of the walls is the only memorial of the poet himself, while an antique bust of a Roman senator, in one of the saloons up stairs, is shown as that of his father, Bernardo. The scenes, how- ever, from which the illustrious poet drew his earliest inspirations remain unchanged, and, as we gaze on them, the mind recurs with interest to the scene when Tasso returned to this spot, after his seven years’ captivity at Fer- rara, disguised in the dress of a herds- man, lest his unexpected arrival should alarm his sister Cornelia, whom he was so anxious to behold again — a disguise which did not prevent that affectionate recognition of her long-lost brother which he has commemorated in one of his most touching letters. From this sister the property descended to the Dukes of Laurito. The ravine of Sorrento is frequently visited by the traveller. Its wildness and gloom explain the superstition of to 242 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — SORRENTO. the peasantry, who consider it to he peopled with goblins, and at night kindle a lamp in the little oratories which are built in its recesses' for the purpose of scaring away the spirits, which they call Monacelli. The Excursions which may be made from Sorrento, and especially by a pedestrian, are of the highest interest and beauty. The Capo di Sorrento , which is so conspicuous an object from the town, and forms the W. extremity of the bay, of which the Punta di Scutolo is the N.E. headland, is within the compass of a walk. The road leads round the cliff to the point of the Cape, the whole of which is covered with Roman re- mains, some of baths, and others of a Temple of Hercules. The ride to the Conti delle Fontanelle and to the Arco Naturale , a picturesque natural arch, of which part only re- mains, as it fell in 1841, commands a magnificent view of the Bays of Naples and Salerno, comprising within its range, on the Salerno side, the islands of the Syrens, the coast of Amalfi, the site of Psestum, and the promontory of Licosa in the distance. Another favourite ride is to Arola, Sta. Maria a Gastello , and the Camal- doli. Arola, a picturesque village, with a ch. upon a hill, is reached in about 2 hours. W. of it is Pergola , near which is a cliff commanding an exten- sive panoramic view of the Plain of Sorrento and the Bay of Naples. On the S.E. is Sta. Maria a Gastello , ap- proached through a chestnut forest, and situated on an eminence commanding a glorious view of the Amalfi coast, and of the Bay of Salerno. Erom one of the projecting rocks near it one looks down almost perpendicularly upon Po- sitano, which stands at least 2000 ft. below. A long winding descent by stairs leads to it from S. Maria a Ca- stello. On the 15th of August, when there is a great Festa at Positano, parties from Sorrento go to S. Maria a Castello to look down in the evening at the illumination at Positano, which seen from this spot has a magic effect. The suppressed convent of the Camal- doli, now belonging to the Gfiusso family, is about half an hour’s walk from Arola, through a chestnut-wood. Those who wish to vary their ride back to Sorrento may return by the pretty village of Albero , and thence descend to Meta. The walk or ride to the Scaricatoio, the little landing-place on the Bay of Salerno, is also full of beauty. The ascent of Monte Sant ’ Angelo , which on this side takes the name of Faito,. can be accomplished from Sorrento ; but one can only ride as far as Moiano y whence the steep ascent on the bare side of the mountain must be made on foot. After reaching the plateau of the beech forest the mules may again be re- mounted. As the excursion occupies the whole day, the traveller should start early, and carry his provisions with him. A short ride is to the Deserto , a con- vent suppressed by the French, and now occasionally occupied by the stu- dents of the Medical College at Naples. It is built on one of the loftiest peaks of the mountain, and commands a magnificent view of the two bays, Capri, the hill of S. Costanzo, the town of Massa, and other objects of interest. Near it is the pretty village : of S. Agata , a favourite expedition from Sorrento, from which it is only 1% m. distant. About 1 m. E. of S. Agata is the village of Torca, sup- posed to occupy the site of the Greek I city of Theorica , celebrated for its temple of Apollo, and still the scene of an annual religious festival to which the peasantry walk in procession from Sorrento, precisely as their ancestors | did to the temple of the Greek divinity. i| The ancient custom of the inhabitants I to supply the persons who join in the procession with bread and wine, is still binding on their descendants. Another interesting ride of about | 3 hours is by a mule-path over the f mountains at the S.W. extremity of the I Piano, to the Marina di Nerano, a pic- turesque cove below Mt. S. Costanzo, | supposed to have derived its name from j EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — MASSA LUBRENSE. 243 a temple of tlie Nereids. At this place a boat may be procured for visiting the ruins at Crapolla, a wild and pictur- esque recess in the mountains about 3 m. E. of Nerano. On our way we have a fine view of the Islands of the Syrens. Crapolla is supposed to have derived its name from Ara Apollinis. Close to the landing-place there are ruins of reticu- lated masonry, with a well in the centre, and some vestiges of an aqueduct. On a precipice near them, but higher up the hill, are the ruins of the ch. of S. Pietro and its little convent. The ch. is built in the style of the Roman ba- silica, the 8 columns which separated the nave from the side-aisles being con- nected together by a series of arches. Of these columns, which are now fallen and broken, 6 are of Grecian marble and 2 of granite ; there is no doubt that they were taken from the ancient temple. The outer walls are built of coarse earthen vases resembling those of the Circus of Romulus at Rome, and were introduced for the purpose of lightening the building. The interior still retains traces of paintings. An inscription on the W. wall records the repair of the church by the Abate Bar- tolommeo, in the year 1490. G-ood pedestrians may ascend from here to S. Agata, and thence descend to Sorrento ; but as the path is very steep and rough, the best course will be to ride from Sorrento, through S. Agata, to the be- ginning of the descent to Crapolla, which must be made on foot. At Cra- polla a boat can be had to go to Ne- rano, where the donkeys ought to be sent from S. Agata. The Islands of the Syrens (p. 249) may be visited from Crapolla, from which they are only about 1^ m. off. Short and delightful rides can be made to the Piccolo S. Angelo , the Valley of the Pines , Monticchio , &c. Another excursion of great beauty, which must be made on horses or donkeys from Sorrento, is to Massa Lubrense and the Punta della Campa- nella. Massa Lubrense. — The road from Sorrento, 4 m., winds through olive- groves by the side of the mountain, crossing the vast and deep ravines which everywhere intersect this coast. The scenery which it commands is of great beauty ; the view of Sorrento from Capo- dimonte is one of the finest in Southern Italy. Massa with its neighbouring vil lages has 10,000 Inhab. and retains its ancient name. It is nearly a mile in length, and is situated on a cliff over- looking the Bay, and terminating in the point called the Capo di Corno, the name of Capo di Massa being given to the well-defined headland which bounds the Bay of Massa on the N.E. The in- sulated rock called La Vervece , which forms so conspicuous an object, lies about midway between these headlands. Massa contains some relics of its Ro- man period in the remains of an aque- duct and other edifices ; and the ch. of San Francesco is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Juno. The ch. and convent of the Franciscans near the Marina is the scene of a fete on the- 15th of August, when the traveller will have an opportunity of studying the costumes and manners of the peasantry of the peninsula. Massa was the head- quarters of Murat during General La- marque’s operations against Capri in 1808. A ride of 4 m. brings us from Massa to the extremity of the peninsula, the Punta della Campanella , the Promon- torium Minervce of the ancients, and the site of the temple which Ulysses, as we are told by Seneca and Strabo, erected to that goddess. This noble headland derives its modern name from the bell (campanella) which was always hung in the watch-towers erected on this coast by Charles Y. in the 16th cent, to guard it from the incursions of the Barbary pirates. These bells gave the inhabitants notice of impend- ing danger on being struck with a ham- mer ( martellof a device to which we owe the term Martello tower. The summit of the promontory commands a fine view of the island and the coast of Capri. It is covered with myrtles, while the banks of the cliff below are M 2 244 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CAPRI. clothed with olive-trees. For more than 1 m. before reaching the point we tread on the old Homan way. At the point itself there are several remains of tombs and other buildings. The depth of water round the point is from 30 to 60 fathoms. The lighthouse, having a fixed light, was erected by the present king. The distance of the promontory from the E. point of Capri is 4 m. The depth of water between these lofty headlands is from 60 to 80 fathoms. There is a sunken rock exactly in mid- channel. Half-a-mile E.S.E. of this rock the depth of water is not less than 280 fathoms. The return from the Punta della Campanella to Sorrento may be varied by Santf Agata. CAPRI. Inns : — The Londra , on a little emi- nence on the rt. of the landing-place, kept by Petagna : charge for breakfast, dinner, and lodging (in April 1858), 12 carlini; — the Vittoria, by Pagani, much frequented by artists and others who look to economy, and the Tiberio, by Boss, are near the village of Capri. All of these offer clean and tolerably comfortable accommodations. Sorrento is one of the points from which travellers find it most convenient to visit Capri. It is about 10 m. dis- tant from it, 6 from Massa, .and more than 22 from the Mole of Naples. The hire of a six-oared boat from Sorrento for the day is from 4 to 5 piastres; and the traveller who means to devote only a single day to the excursion should start very early, as it requires several hours to examine, even superficially, the principal objects of interest in the island. A calm day should be chosen to prevent disappointment in seeing the Grotta Azzurra and the Grotta Verde. Those who do not object to a longer sea-passage will find a cheap and easy mode of going to the island from Na- ples by the market or fish boats, which start almost daily at 1 o’clock p.m. from the beach of the Marinella opposite the Porta di Massa at Naples. The price of the passage by these boats is 2 or 3 carlini. During the spring and sum- mer a small steamer plies between Naples and Capri, leaving at 9 a.m. and returning at 4 p.m., but giving only time to see the blue grotto : fares, to go and return, 24 carlini. The island is separated from the Sor- rentine Promontory by a deep channel, 4 m. in breadth. It is 3-^ m. in length, and 2 in breadth at its W. portion, being divided about the middle into two mountain-masses, of which the loftiest on the W. rises about its centre, called Monte Solaro, to nearly 1800 ft. above the sea. The E. division is about 860 ft. in its highest part, and ter- minates in cliffs which plunge precipi- tously into the sea. The village of Capri is situated on the slope of the E. mountain, and that of Anacapri is on the table-land of the W. The circum- ference of the island is about 10 m. There are only two places in the island where a landing can be effected with safety. On the approach of strangers the peasantry bring down donkeys and portantine to the beach for hire, and, as the continual ascents are excessively fatiguing, the traveller will do well to secure their services. The charge is 6 carlini a day for each | donkey, exclusive of a buonamano to the driver. The cicerone will expect half a piastre for his day’s attendance. Capri, Cajprece , according to a tra- j dition transmitted by the Latin poets, was early occupied by the Telebose, a colony from the coast of Acarnania. But its history is almost entirely con- jectural till the time of Augustus, who, having met with a favourable omen on landing there, took a fancy to it, and obtained it from the Neapolitans, to whom it then belonged, giving them in j exchange the richer island of Ischia. He embellished it with palaces, baths, and aqueducts, and spent four days in it a short time before his death. Under Tiberius it became the scene of his cruel j 1 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CAPRI. 245 atrocities. The ruins of the 12 palaces which he erected to the 12 superior divinities, on the most prominent points, constitute the principal Antiquities of Capri ; but as every building which he erected was razed to the ground by order of the Senate at his death, it is not surprising that they now present little more than masses of shapeless ruins — everything of value in the form of sculpture having been removed to the Museo Borbonico at Naples. The antiquary, however, would be well re- paid for further researches, as the ground has been indifferently explored; the peasants, in planting their vines, often stumble upon fragments of fres- coes or mosaic pavements. Great dif- ference of opinion exists among anti- quaries with regard to the identity of many of the existing ruins with the villas of Tiberius. We shall follow Mangoni’s views on the subject, refer- ring the traveller who is desirous to have further details to his learned works upon Capri. The most import- ant ruins are situated on the summit of the hill of Lo Capo, or St a. Maria del Soccorso, the E. promontory. They mark the position of the palace called the Villa Jovis, built by Augustus, and in which Tiberius secluded himself for nine months after he had suppressed the conspiracy of Sejanus. Near it are the foundations of the Pharos , men- tioned by Suetonius as having been thrown down by an earthquake a few days before the death of the tyrant. A bas-relief was found on this spot repre- senting Lucilla and Crispina, the sister and wife of Commodus, who banished them to this island for their partici- pation in the conspiracy of the senators against his life, a.d. 185. Between the foundations of the Pharos and the Villa Jovis is a perpendicular rock 700 ft. above the sea, called II Salto, or The Leap, which is identified with the Saltus Caprearum, whence the victims of Ti- berius were precipitated into the sea. Unde da/mnatos , says Suetonius, post long a et exquisita tormenta , prcecipitari coram se in mare jubebat , excipiente classiariorum maim , et contis atque remis elidente cadaver a, ne cui residui spiritus quidquam inesset. The temples of Piestum are visible from this pre- cipice. In other directions on the mountain are masses of ruins, which are considered to be those of a tem- ple, a theatre, and baths. Between Lo Capo and the S.E. point, called the Punt a Tragara , are two conical hills called the Tuoro grande e pic- colo, which are supposed to be the Taurubulce of Statius. Near the Tuoro piccolo, in the precipices overhanging the shore, is a grotto which still bears evidence of the Mithratic worship, in the name of Metromania, and in a Mithratic bas-relief and a Greek in- scription, found in it. The ruins on the Tuoro grande are supposed to be the second palace of Tiberius, and those at a spot called V Unghia Marina, W. of the landing-place of that name, to- be the third palace. On the hill of San Michele some massive walls, a long corridor, and remains of baths, mark the site of the fourth palace. Some traces of the ancient road still exist. On the S. of the town of Capri, near the Camerelle , is a long row of arches, which were probably the foundations of a road from the Castiglione to the Tragara ; and some ruins are said to be the Spintrice and Sellarii, which Suetonius describes as the sedes arca- narum libidinum, and of which Tacitus remarks tuncque primum ignota ante vocabula reperta sunt Sellariorum et Spintriarum, ex foeditate loci, ac mul- tiplici patientia. The infamous medals found among the ruins are known to numismatists as the Spintrian medals. A short distance beyond the Camerelle, the ruins at Castiglione , on the slope of the Gastello, on which is a dismantled fortification, mark the site of the fifth palace. S. of the town, in a secluded spot, is the Certosa, founded in 1371 by Giacomo Arcucci, a native of the island and secretary to Joanna I. It was converted into barracks by the French, and it is now falling into ruin. The tomb of its founder is still to be seen in its cli. The Truglio, on the W. of the town of Capri, is supposed to be 246 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.— CAPRI. the site of the sixth ; the statue of Ti- berius now in the Yatican was found in the extensive vaults and ruins near this spot. The seventh palace is placed at Aiano , on the descent to the beach, where 5 vaults are to be seen, in which were found 8 columns of giallo antico and cipollino, 4 of which decorate the ch. of S. Costanzo. Campo di Pisco , now occupied by a fort, has also several ruins, which can only he examined by descending into them by a ladder. Be- yond it, at Palazzo a Mare , are the ex- tensive remains ascribed to the eighth palace, from which most valuable sculp- tures and marbles were dug out in the last cent.; among others the altar to Cyhele, now in the British Museum. At Le Grotte , on the beach below the rocks of Anacapri, are subterranean chambers, one of which contains a line cretaceous powder, which is supposed to have been used by the imperial pot- ters in the manufacture of the vasa myrrhina. On the W. of this beach is the lofty and precipitous rock which separates the plain of Anacapri from the E- part of the island. The only way of reaching Anacapri is by an ascent of 535 rude steps, cut in the face of the rock, and constructed probably in times anterior to the Roman rule. The donkeys are brained to ascend and descend them without riders, and the traveller who is unable to incur the fatigue of doing so on foot can be carried in a chair or j 'portantina . At the summit of the steps, called Cajpodimonte , a mule-path leads to the village and to the W. end of the plain, while another on the 1. leads to some ruins, now planted with a vineyard, said to mark the site of the 9th palace. J ust above them, hanging over frightful precipices, and command- ing entirely the ascent from the lower part of the island, is a ruined mediseval castle, commonly called the Castle of Par- barossa , from its having been stormed by that corsair, when he made a descent on the island in the time of Charles Y. Two of its round towers are still nearly perfect, and from their battlements there is a most striking view of the precipice below them. The path be- comes steeper and more broken till it reaches the summit of Monte Solaro, 1800 ft. high, which commands a most extensive view. On the E. of Monte Solaro is the little chapel of S. Maria a Cetrelle. A steep descent brings us to the vil- lage of Anacapri, where refreshments and decent accommodation for the night can be had at a house kept by a woman called Prigida. In the ch. of the suppressed convent of St. Teresa is a pavement of painted tiles, repre- senting the Creation of the World, after the design of Solimena. Some ruins on the W. of the village, on a high ground called Monticello , and 4 m - N. at a spot called Timberino , are supposed to mark the 10th and 11th palaces, and the 12th is placed at Pamecuta. From extensive, though shapeless ruins, still existing at the latter place, which seems to have been artificially cut into a large square flat, from the numerous frag- ments of mosaic pavements, fresco- plastering, marbles, and broken columns scattered all over the ground and stuck into the walls that divide the fields, it is argued that this villa was the next in importance to the Villa Jovis. The sweet-brier grows most luxuriantly in all the narrow lanes about the place. It' was probably from this palace that there was a descent to The GIeotta Azztjeea, or Blue G-rotto, about midway between the Marina di Capri and the Punt a delV Arcera , or di Vitareto , the N.W. ex- tremity of the island. A calm day should be chosen for visiting it, as it can only be entered, when the sea is tranquil, in a small boat hired for the purpose ; when the wind blows from the N. or E. it can scarcely be en- tered. On reaching the entrance the traveller must lie down in the bot- tom, while the boat is pushed in under the rocky arch, which is only 3 ft. high, and so narrow that it might easily escape attention amidst the rough pre- cipices which meet the eye on either side of it. The entrance being passed, EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CAPRI. 247 the traveller finds himself in a fairy scene which justifies the poetical crea- tions of the Arabian Nights. The smooth water and the walls and roof of the grotto assume a most beautiful ultramarine colour, which, no doubt, is produced by the light from without entering the water, and being refracted upwards into the grotto. The light is not diminished and the blue assumes a deeper hue when the entrance is half- blocked up by a boat coming in. A man swimming in it appears of a silvery hue. The best hour to see it is between 10 and 1 o’clock, when the sea-breeze from the westward has set, its entrance being then in smooth water ; but the tra- veller should remain in it at least 20 min. to accustom his eye to the colour and appreciate it in all its beauty. The length of the grotto is 165 English ft. ; the breadth, in the widest part, is about 100 ft. ; the highest part of the vault is about 40 ft. above the sea level ; the depth of water is about 8 fathoms. About the middle, on the rt., is a kind of landing-place, leading to a subterra- nean passage with broken steps, which becomes lower as it ascends, and seems to be closed at the extremity by a square stone, beyond which no attempt has been made to trace it. Mangoni, who was the first in our time to pub- lish a scientific account of the grotto, supposes that this passage communi- cated with the ancient villa at Dame- cuta on the heights above, and that the grotto may perhaps have been used as a bathing-place. The subsidence of the land, which has evidently taken place on the shores of the island, must have made the entrance of the cavern lower than it was in Homan times. The common story is, that the grotto was unknown till the year 1822, when it was discovered by two Englishmen, or, more truly, by a fisherman of the island, called Eerrara, whose claim to its discovery was acknowledged by the Government, who settled a small pen- sion upon him. But there is ample evidence that it was known, not only when Addison visited Italy in the last centy., but as far back as 1605, when Capaccio mentioned and described it. It is quite possible that it may have been forgotten, at a time when tra- vellers were not numerous, and when the natural wonders which surround them were little known or appreciated by the Neapolitans themselves. Grotto of the Stalactites , between the Marina and the Blue Grotto, dis- covered in 1851. It takes its name from the long stalactites which hang from its roof. The entrance to it is so low that it must be entered by swim- ming. Passaggio e Geotta Yeede, or the Green Passage and Green Grotto , on the S. of the island, nearly 1 m. AY. of the little landing-place of Mulo, where boats may be found to visit them. It is greatly inferior to the Grotta Azurra in inter- est, and is little else than an incon- siderable cavern in the limestone rock. Eirst comes the Passage, which admits a boat, and cuts through a narrow pro- jecting headland, on issuing from which into the open sea, a few hundred yards beyond, is the Grotto, which is veiy ac- cessible, being at least 20 ft. high at the entrance. A few minutes after one has entered either the Passage or the Grotto, their roofs and sides assume a dazzling green colour, as if they were made of emeralds. The rocks below the water assume, on the contrary, the appearance of dark polished brass. The best hour for seeing them is from 11 to 2 o’clock. They were first discovered on the 5th of.June, 1848, by Mr. Reid and Air. Lacaita, and explored on the following day by Capt. Codrington of 1I.M.S. Thetis, then in the Bay of Naples. Faraglioni is the name given to 3 picturesque and high rocks which stand in the sea near the Punta Tra- gara on the S.E. extremity. The boats pass under one of them through a large and beautiful natural arch. The shore near them has many ruins under water. E. of them is the Monacone , a larger rock, supposed to be the small isle called by Augustus Apragopoli, and on which his favourite Masgaba was buried: — Vietnam Capreis insulam A^oayo^oXi'i 248 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. AMALFI. ajpjpellabat , a desidia secedentium illuc e comitatu suo. — Suet. Aug. 98. There are remains of ancient buildings and tombs upon it. In May, 1806, Sir Sidney Smith, after a slight resistance, took possession of Capri in the name of King Ferdinand. Sir John Stuart, then commanding in Sicily, placed in it a small garrison of five companies of Corsican Hangers and nine artillerymen, under the command of Colonel (afterwards Sir Hudson) Lowe. After the battle of Maida the Corsican force wap increased to 684 men. For two years Lowe had to employ his small force in fortifying it. In August, 1808, Sir John Stuart strengthened the garrison with the Malta regiment under Major Hamill, to whom was confided the defence of Anacapri. On the 4th of October an expedition, under General Lamarque, attacked the island in three divisions, two of which were directed against the two landing-places, and the third against the coast of Anacapri. The assaults of the first two divisions were feigned ; the last was the real one. The Maltese, in spite of the example of Hamill, who suffered himself to be bayoneted rather than surrender, offered scarcely any resistance to the invaders, who, mounting the precipices by the aid of scaling-ladders, established them- selves on the table-land of Anacapri. On the following day the Maltese sur- rendered. By this, Lowe’s force was reduced to 770 men, but such was his confidence in the Corsicans that he refused La- marque’s summons to surrender. The French, who had descended the steps of Anacapri, opened a fire on the town and castle ; but Lowe and his little garri- son sustained a siege of ten days, during which the Sicilian squadron sent to assist him, for reasons never satisfac- torily explained, kept at so great a dis- tance from the island, that they failed to prevent the enemy from landing his reinforcements. On the evening of the loth, Lamarque, having made a prac- ticable breach, sent a flag of truce, with a note calling upon Lowe to spare the inhabitants the horrors of an assault. On the 16th, at Lamarque’s request, Lowe had an interview with him, when the General expressed his astonishment that Low;e had so long persisted in maintaining a post which was untenable against cannon. He demanded an un- conditional surrender, only allowing Lowe and his officers to retire to Sicily. Lowe refused to make any distinction between his officers and men, and the next day he sent to Lamarque the terms on which he would surrender. These terms were accepted, but Murat refused to ratify them, and ordered the General to demand the return of the ratifica- tion. This demand was refused ; La- marque, on his own responsibility, renewed the ratification, and Colonel Lowe and his force marched out of the castle on the 20th and embarked for- Sicily. The island produces delicious fruits,, oil, and excellent white and red wine. Its quails, once so much esteemed by the epicures of Home, still supply the Neapolitan markets in abundance. The island has 5000 Inhab., of whom 3400 are in the district of Capri, and 1600 in Anacapri. With few exceptions they are all agriculturists and fishermen. AMALFI. One of the most agreeable excursion® which the traveller can make in the neighbourhood of Naples is that to Amalfi, whether it be visited alone, or in combination with other scenes of the Sorrentine Promontory and the Gulf of Salerno. From Naples the traveller has two routes by which he can proceed to Amalfi direct. 1. By the railway to La Cava, where he may hire a carriage, visit the monastery, and proceed thence to Vietri, and by the beautiful coast- road, opened in 1853, through Cetara, Maiori, and Minori to Amalfi. The hire of a carriage to go and return, remain- ing long enough to enable the traveller I to visit Ravello from Amalfi, is 4 scudi. EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. AMALFI. 249 2. By the railway to Pagani, whence a mountain road, practicable for horses or donkeys, leads over Monte Chiunzo by the castle, called the Torre di Chi- unzo, which guards the pass on the Nocera side. From this castle, which was built by Baimondo Orsini, Prince of Salerno, in the reign of Alfonso I., the road proceeds through the picturesque valley of Tramonti. Its name describes its position among mountains, which are studded with 13 villages, each of which lias its parish ch., and all to- gether have 4000 Inhab. In the larger village, called also Tramonti, the ch. of the Minori Osservanti contains the tomb of Martino de Maio, Bishop of Bisceglie, who came here in 1506 in his old age to expire in the town which gave him birth ; and the tomb of Am- brogio Bomano, Bishop of Minori, dated 1411. On the hill near the vil- lage is the ruined castle of S. Maria la Nova, which afforded a secure retreat to Ferdinand I. during the conspiracy of the Barons. John of Procida, cele- brated in the history of the Sicilian Vespers, was created Marchese di Tra- monti by Manfred. The climate of Tramonti is severe in winter, and the mountains around it abound with wolves. The path descends the 1. bank of the torrent which flows through it to Ma- iori, where it falls into the new carriage- road along the coast. From Sorrento there are form modes of reaching Amalfi : — 1. The first through Santa Maria a Castello, from whence, descending to- wards Positano, the path branches off on the 1. to Monte Tertuso, and, after passing through Traiano, joins the path from Agerola to Amalfi. It is very picturesque, but impassable for shod donkeys, and a considerable portion must be travelled on foot. 2. From Sta. Maria a Castello there is another path to Agerola by the Tasso del Lupo, an immense flat stone, which affords no safe footing. This path skirts the perpendicular precipices of Alt. S. Angelo, and must be travelled on foot. 3. A ride of an hour to the Conti delle Fontanelle, whence a steep stair- case, the descent of which will occupy J an hour, leads to the little landing- place of Scaricatoio, which is about 6 m. from Sorrento. Before the traveller undertakes this route, he should send orders from Sorrento overnight for a boat to be in attendance ; and on re- turning from Amalfi he should send directions to the landlord of the hotel at Sorrento to have donkeys waiting his arrival. From the Scaricatoio a four-oared boat, for which the charge is 2 piastres, will reach Amalfi in 2 hrs. Positano is one of the most striking objects in the passage. Further east- ward, clustered together above the Punta di Vettica, are Vettica Maggiore, Praiano, Furore, and Conca. Beyond are Vettica Minore, Lone, and Pastena ; the lofty mountains which back Amalfi on the N. crowned by Scala and Bavello. This route of the Scaricatoio, although the shortest and the easiest in fine weather, is intolerable with rain or wind. 4. By sea, all the way round the Punta della Campanella, in a six- oared boat, which will cost, if left at Amalfi, about 8 piastres. As it takes 6 hrs., and more if it is connected with other visits, an early start ought to be made. In fine weather it is a most enjoyable expedition, affording an easy way of visiting at once the Capo di Sorrento,. Massa, the Punta della Campanella, Nerano, Crapolla, Positano (all these places are separately described), and the Islands of the Syrens, near which the boat passes after leaving Crapolla. The Islands of the Syrens, the In- sula Syrenusce of Strabo, and the Syre- num Scojouli of Virgil, are now called li Galli, a name in which some anti- quaries have recognised an allusion to the forms given to the Syrens by the ancient poets and sculptors, while others regard it as a corruption of Guallo, the name of a fortress captured by George of Antioch, during the war between King Boger and Amalfi in 1130, and supposed to have been situ- ated on one of the islands. They are M 3 250 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — AMALFI. three in number, lying off about 1 m. from the nearest point, the Punta S. Elia, about 6 m. from the Punta della Campanella, and about 10 from Amalfi. Midway between them and Crapolla is a rock, called the Scoglio Vivara. Strabo describes them, and suggests the probability of their haying formed part of the Sorrentine promontory before they were torn from it by some natural convulsion. The largest island is now called Isola Lung a, or Isola di San Jdietro , from a eh. which existed on it ; the second is called II Castelletto ; the third and smallest is called from its shape Isola Rotonda. The republic of Am alfi used them as state-prisons ; many of the Doges who made themselves in- tolerable by their tyranny, having been condemned to a life of exile on these rocks. In 1038 the Doge Mansone III., who had driven his brother Giovanni from the ducal throne four years before, was expelled by that brother, and, after having had his eyes put out, was con- fined as a prisoner in these islands until he obtained permission to end his days at Constantinople. In the time of Robert Guiscard the command of the castle on the larger island was confided to Pas- quale Celentano, a native of Positano, who fortified the three islands against the attacks of pirates by building two towers, and surrounding them with walls and bastions. At present the islands are entirely deserted, and, though their broken outlines make them such beautiful objects from a distance, they are found on a near approach to be barren as well as desolate. If we ex- cept the bones which Yirgil mentions as whitening the rocks on which the Syrens lured their victims to destruc- tion, his description may be still ap- plied to them : — Jamque adeo scopulos Syrenum advecta subibat, Lifficiles quondam, multorumque ossibus albos, Turn rauca assiduo longe sale saxa sonabant. JEn. v. 864. The fishermen of the coast occasion- ally land upon them, and in adverse winds find a refuge under then 1 lee. There is deep water all round. Erom Castellammare the excursion to Amalfi may be made 1. By the railway, or the high road to Cava, and from thence to Yietri, and along the new coast-road. 2. By railway or the high road to Pagani, and thence ride by the Torre di Chiunzo and Tramonti to Maiori, where the coast road is met. 3. By the path over the Piccolo S. Angelo, a ride of about 6 hrs. ; in some tracts the path is so bad that it is safer to walk. This route lies through the village of Rimonte , over the ridge of the Piccolo Sant' Angelo , which lies S.E. of Castellammare, about midway between the gulfs of Naples and Salerno. The view from the summit of the Pass is extremely grand, the soft beauty of the two bays contrasting finely with the wildness of the mountain. The de- scent on the Amalfi side winds down to the sea through wooded ravines. • 4. Another, and perhaps easier route, is by a track, in 5^ hrs., which branches off to the 1. at the foot of the little St. Angelo, and, after winding through chestnut woods, descends by Pogerola to Amalfi. 5. By Pimonte and the Yia delle Crocelle to Agerola. This track has of late years been much improved. 6. By the Yia delle Crocelle on the 1. to the ancient Ferriera and the valley of Amalfi. 7. By a tolerable bridle-path passing through Gragnano and the Tende di Lettere to Monte Faito, from whence there is a magnificent view of the bays of Naples and Salerno. Erom Faito Amalfi is reached by a winding descent, passing on the rt. the castle of Fratta , and through Ravello. This is the only route by wliich travellers crossing the mountains can visit Amalfi and Bavello on the same day ; it takes about 6 hours. For pedestrians there is a shorter path to Bavello by the Megano and the Tavola di Cerito. On all these expeditions donkeys should not he shod. Amalfi {Inns : Hotel des Capucins , on the sea-shore, very good ; Albergo EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.' — AMALFI— HISTORY. 251 della Luna , once a convent, and beau- tifully situated between Amalfi and Atrani : the Mellonis , father and son, are good guides) is one of those places that are better understood from the rudest drawing than from the most minute description. Encircled with mountains, at the mouth of a deep gorge from which a torrent dashes into the gulf below, its position is in all re- spects unique. Its churches, towers, and arcaded houses, grouped together in picturesque irregularity, are backed by precipices of wild magnificence, and lighted up by that magic colouring which belongs to the atmosphere of Southern Italy. The historical interest of Amalfi is entirely mediaeval. It had no existence in classical times, and the magnificence of its coast seems to have been un- known to the Greek and Latin poets. The legendary origin of Amalfi, as related in the Cronica Amaljitana , is that some Homan patricians, having left Rome to follow Constantine to Byzan- tium in the 4>th cent., were wrecked at Ragusa. After some time they mi- grated to the Gulf of Palinuro, and built or re-occupied Melji, on a small river which, retains the name of Melpa, whence shortly afterwards they pro- ceeded to Eboli, from which also they eventually removed for greater security to this coast, taking up their position at Scala, on the mountains. From this point they descended to the coast, and gave to the city which they erected the name of Amalfi, in remembrance of their first home, Melji. Whatever we may be disposed to think of this account, the first historical record we find of the existence of Amalfi is in the 6th cent., in a letter of St. Gregory the Great to Anthemius, mentioning the Bishop of Amalfi. The founders of Amalfi seem to have placed it under the protection of the Eastern Emperors, and obtained the privilege of being governed by a Prefect of their own choice, who in later times when the government, by the weakening of the power of the Emperors, grew gradually into a Republic, was dignified by the title of Doge. The increase of the population soon led to an extension of territory, and we find that when the Republic had attained the height of its power, its limits extended on the E. as far as Cetara, on the IN. as far as Gragnano, Lettere, and Pimonte, and on the W. to the Promontory of Minerva. So rapid had been the increase of the Republic, that in the time of Por- phyry Amalfi was classed as the fifth city of the kingdom, after Capua, Na- ples, Benevento, and Gaeta. In 838 Sicardo, Prince of Benevento, suddenly attacked it, to obtain possession of the body of Sta. Trofimena. Not content with plundering the city of this relic, he also carried off the inhabitants, and retained them as prisoners at Salerno imtil his murder and the dissensions which occurred at the election of his successor enabled them to escape. On quitting Salerno they pillaged it, and destroyed many of its churches and palaces by fire. Before the close of this centy. Amalfi was surrounded by walls and towers ; coined its own mo- ney; had its arsenal, its theatre, and other public edifices. In 987 its see was erected into an Archbishopric. Its history under the Doges is an epitome of the petty wars with the princes of Salerno, Benevento, Capua, and against the Saracens, — wars in which Amalfi was sometimes allied with the duchy of Naples, and sometimes with the principality of Salerno, and in which the Republic obtained from Leo IY. the title of “ Defender of the Eaitli ” for its services against the infidels. In the 11th cent, a band of Norman crusaders, who had taken their passage in the Amalfi cruisers on their return from the Holy Land, were hospitably enter- tained by the Doge of the Republic and by the Prince of Salerno. The Nor- mans rendered effectual service to their hosts by aiding in repelling an attack of the Saracens upon Salerno; a service which led eventually to the foundation of the Norman power in Southern Italy. At this time Amalfi is said to have had 50,000 Inhab., and its dependent 252 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. AMALFI — HISTORY. territory ten times that amount. The barrenness of this territory compelled the inhabitants, from the earliest period, to depend on commerce as their chief means of support ; and so great was the success of their commercial enter- prise, that when Robert Guiscard en- tered Italy,, they had their factories at Jerusalem, at Alexandria, at Bagdad, at Tunis, at Cjprus, and at Constanti- nople, and possessed their separate quarters and streets in almost every port with which they traded. At Jeru- salem they had built a ch. and convent for the use of the pilgrims who visited the Holy Land previous to the Crusades, and with the sanction of the Caliph of Egypt, had founded the hospital which led to the establishment of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John, who afterwards became so famous under the title of the Knights of Malta. At home they had raised their little state to the rank of the first naval power in Europe, and had preserved, as the greatest monu- ment of then’ eastern commerce, the earliest known MS. of the Pandects of Justinian , of which most of the other copies now extant are transcripts. They had laid down for their guidance those maritime laws which, under the name of the Tabula Amaljphitana , sup- planted the Lex Rhodia hitherto in use and incorporated by the Romans in their codes ; and they introduced into Europe a knowledge of the compass. These services rendered to civilisation earned for Amalfi the title of the Athens of the Middle Ages. In 1075 the Republic, being oppressed by the tyranny of Gisulfo of Salerno, obtained the aid of Robert Guiscard, who expelled Gisulfo, fortified Amalfi with four castles, and annexed it and Salerno to his dukedom of Apulia. His son, Roger Bursa, treated Amalfi with less respect. He seized it in 1089, and retained it till 1096, when the citizens successfully asserted their independence. Roger summoned his elder brother Boliemond and his uncle Roger of Sicily to his aid. Count Roger sent a powerful fleet with 20,000 Saracens, while Duke Roger himself brought a considerable force from Apulia and Calabria. The Amalfitans defended themselves gallantly, and the siege would have been long protracted if Bohemond had not abandoned the enterprise to join the first crusade with his nephew Tancred, whose achieve- ments were sung by Tasso. Count Roger’s Christian forces, fired by this example, determined to go also to the Holy Land, and raised the siege, leav- ing Roger Bursa to return to Apulia without humbling Amalfi. In 1129, the Great Count, afterwards King Roger, required the Amalfitans to sur- render their fortresses, and on his de- mand being answered by a firm refusal, he sent his high admiral George of Antioch with a powerful fleet, to attack the city by sea and land. In this war the Amalfitans saw Ravello, Scala, the Islands of the Syrens, and their other dependent castles fall in succession. At length, on the king appearing before the city in person in 1131, they capitu- lated. The fortresses were given up unconditionally, and Roger entered Amalfi as a conqueror, the citizens, however, reserving to themselves the right of continuing to govern the State by their own magistrates and laws. Four years afterwards, Roger returned with a strong armament to attack the Neapolitans, who summoned the Pisans to their aid. The ships of Amalfi had joined the royal fleet in the harbours of Sicily, and her troops were encamped under the standard of Roger at Aversa. The Pisans, in their absence, attacked and sacked Amalfi, Scala, and Ravello. Roger and the Amalfitans broke up the camp at Aversa as soon as they heard of this disaster, and marching over Monte Sant’ Angelo, fell upon the Pisans as they were besieging the castle of Eratta near Ravello, took many of them prisoners, and compelled the rest to fly to their ships, leaving one of their consuls dead upon the mountains and the other a prisoner in the hands of the Amalfitans. The fleet from Sicily arrived at the same time, and destroyed many of the Pisan ships. Those which succeeded in escaping, carried with EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES, AMALFI — CATHEDRAL. 253 them as their prize the Pandects of Justinian. The Pisans retained posses- sion of this precious codex for nearly 300 years, when Guido Capponi cap- tured it from them and carried it in triumph to Florence, where it is still preserved in the Laurentian library. The Pisans, eager to avenge the re- pulse they had sustained, returned in 1137 with a fleet of 100 ships ; and Amalfi, and Atrani being either unpre- pared or dismayed by such a force, purchased peace without striking a blow. Ravello and Scala refused to surrender upon such terms, but after a brief defence they were taken by storm and pillaged by the invaders. From this disaster Amalfi never recovered. The Norman king soon found a wider field for his ambition than the petty principalities and republics of this coast ; and what the Pisans had spared was soon destroyed by a more resistless enemy. As early as the 12th centy. the subsidence of the land had laid part of the lower town under water, and the great storm and inundation of 1343, which Petrarch has described in one of his letters, completed the work of destruction, engulfing the beach which then existed between Amalfi and Atrani. This catastrophe will explain the fact that Amalfi has now no trace of its ancient quays and arsenals, and scarcely any fragment of its walls. The massive round tower on the Monte Aureo, the only one remaining, is flanked with bastions and turreted, and has no means of entrance but from above. The monastery of SS. Trinita was built upon the ruins of the mint of the Republic, and the ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore upon those of the theatre, — the only public edifices of which the site is remembered. Under the dynasties of Anjou and Aragon, the title of Duke of Amalfi was enjoyed by the Colonna, Orsini, d’Este, and Piccolomini families. The latter possessed it for more than a centy., and then sold it to the Princes of Stigliano, from whom, in 1584, the Amalfitans purchased the fief and placed it under the crown. In 1642, Philip II. again conferred the title on the Picco- lominis, but the citizens having pro- tested, their claim was recognised and the grant recalled. The town and its dependent villages have 7000 Inhab. The little torrent, called the Canneto , is the chief source of its modern prosperity, supplying the motive power of its paper-mills, and its factories of soap and maccaroni, the latter of which are celebrated not only throughout the kingdom of the Two Sicilies, but are exported to France, to the Levant, and to South America. There are 16 paper-mills, 15 maccaroni mills, 7 soap factories. In spite of these evidences of industrial occupation the town is full of beggars. The Cathedral , dedicated to St. An- drew the Apostle, whose body reposes in the crypt beneath it, although it has suffered greatly from modern alterations and enlargements, is a very interesting example of the Lombardo-Saracenic, or, as it is sometimes called, the Roman- esque style, which the Normans intro- duced into Europe after their conquest of Sicily. In front of the edifice is a wide portico, whose arches rest on columns of different orders and pro- portions, which, like the architraves, have evidently been taken from ancient edifices. The bronze doors of the principal entrance, which are supposed to date from the year 1000, and to be the work of Byzantine artists, furnished the model for those of Monte Casino. They bear two inscriptions, in silver letters, recording their erection by Pantaleone di Mauro in honour of St. Andrew, and for the redemption of his own soul. The upper inscription is Hoc opus Andreae memoriae consistit , effectum Pantaleonis his honor e auctoris studiis , ut pro gestis succedat gratia culpis. The lower is as follows : — Hoc opus fieri jussit pro redemptione animce suae Pantaleo filius Mauri de Panta- leone de Mauro de Maurone Comite. The interior consists of a nave and three aisles ; there was originally a fourth, but it has disappeared. The nave, with its antique marble columns, its mosaic arabesques, and its richly carved and 254 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — AMALFI. gilded roof, was reduced to its present form in tlie last cent. An antique porphyry vase, remarkable both for its size and for the beauty of the material, serves as the baptismal font. Near it are the remains of two ancient sarco- phagi with bas-reliefs of considerable interest, but greatly mutilated. One of them, now built into the wall, re- presents the Rape of Proserpine. On the other is a relief which is sup- posed to represent the Marriage of Pe- leus and Thetis in the presence of the gods, or the story of Mars and Rhea Sylvia. A third sarcophagus has upon it the following lines : — - Hie intus homo verus certus optumus recumbo Quintus Fabritius Rufus nobilis Decurio. Below the cathedral is the crypt, con- taining the Body of St. Andrew, which was brought from Constantinople, with other relics, by Cardinal Capuano, after he had effected the reconciliation of the Greek and Latin churches at the beginning of the 13th cent. The acquisition of such a relic soon made Amalfi a place of pilgrimage. In 1218 the tomb was visited by S. Francesco d’ Assisi ; in 1262 by Pope Urban IY. ; in 1354 by Santa Brigida, on her return from Jerusalem ; by Queen Joanna I., and by her husband, Louis of Taranto ; and in 1466 by Pius II., during whose pontificate the head of the apostle was enclosed in a silver bust and removed by Cardinal Bessarion to Rome, where it is still preserved among the relics of the Vatican. The fame of the apostle’s tomb was materially aug- mented at the commencement of the 14th cent, by the discovery that the oily matter which was said to have exuded from his body at Patras, the scene of his crucifixion, had again made its appearance at Amalfi. This sub- stance, under the name of the Manna of St. Andreiv, became, like that of St. Nicholas at Bari, a source of great profit, and long enjoyed a high reputa- tion in all parts of Southern Europe for its miraculous powers in the cure of disease ; and even as late as 1544 it had the credit of dispersing the Turkish fleet under Heyradin Barbarossa! It has been commemorated by Tasso : — Vide in sembianza placida e tranquilla, II Divo, che di manna Amalfi instil la. Gerusal. Conquistata, ii. 82. The colossal bronze statue of the apostle, by Michelangelo Naccarino , was presented by Philip III. of Spain. The crypt was restored and decorated by the first three viceroys of that sove- reign. The altar was designed by Domenico Fontana. The Campanile , with its four stories, three of which are square and the fourth round, capped by a cupola, and decorated with columns and four little towers with mosaics, was built, according to the inscription, in 1276, by the Archbishop Filippo Augustariccio, who also furnished it with bells. A steep path from the W. end of the beach ascends to the Convent of the Cappuccini , passing close to the convent a large grotto on the 1., which is often introduced by painters in their sketches of the scenery of Amalfi. The convent, which still retains its cloister and ar- cades, was founded and dedicated to St. Peter in 1212, by Cardinal Pietro Capuano, for the Cistercians of Fos- sanova, and was richly endowed by Frederick II. The Cistercians aban- doned it after having held it for more than 200 years’ during which it was governed, among other abbots, by Gre- gory of Florence, the friend and coun- sellor of King Robert the Wise. The building, thus deserted, was falling into ruin, when the citizens of Amalfi, in 1583, restored and conferred it on the Capuchins, who retained it until its suppression in 1815. It was after- wards converted into an hotel ; but in 1850 it was restored to the Capuchins, who now occupy it. The cloisters are still perfect, and are very interesting as an example of the Italian cloisters of the 13th cent. The arcades rest on more than 100 dwarf coupled columns ; the arches are pointed, as are also the interlaced mouldings, each moulding intersecting 4 others, and thereby forming 6 lancet arches. In the Valle de' Moling a narrow EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. AMALFI — THE MARINER’S COMPASS. 255 gorge with a rivulet which animates numerous paper-mills, many varieties of ferns grow most luxuriantly, and every plateau is covered with ruins of mediaeval buildings. The claim of Amalfi to the honour of being the birthplace of the discoverer of the Mariner's Compass does not seem to rest on any foundation beyond a mere tradition. The date assigned to this discovery is the year 1302, in the reign of Charles II. of Anjou, in whose honour the ornament of the Jleur-de-lis, which the compass retains to the present day in most countries, is said to have been adopted. O.f the inventor himself so little is known that some writers give his Christian name as Giovanni, and others as Flavio, while his surname is variously given as Gioia, Gira, Giri, and Gisa. Not a trace exists of any fact which can throw light on his life, not a tra- dition as to the place of his burial. The only proof adduced that the name Gioia ever existed at Amalfi is a monas- tic deed, of 1630, in which Angiola Gioia is mentioned as a nun. The compass on the city arms, and on those of the province of Principato Citra, is no proof of the discovery, for we have no account of the period when these arms were granted ; and if they have not been altered to square with the popular tradition, there is little to be proved by an ex-post-facto argument. Others have lost sight of the alleged date of Gioia’ s discovery, and have con- tended that the cross of the compass w r as emblazoned on the Amalfitan stand- ard during the crusades, and was sub- sequently adopted as the banner of the Knights Hospitallers ! There is no con- temporary record of Gioia or his dis- covery. The oldest writer who men- tions the claim of Amalfi is Beccadelli of Palermo, better known as Panor- mita, who lived in the 15th cent., and who says : — Prima dedit nautis usum magnetis Amalphis, Yexillum Solymis, militia:que typum. Pontanus perpetuated the tradition by giving to Amalfi the epithet “ mag- netica;” and the poet Lauro, at a later period, asserted its authenticity by de- scribing the city as Inventrix praeclara fuit magnetis Amalpliis. With the light which Klaproth has thrown upon the origin of the compass, and its use by the Chinese for traversing the deserts, before our era, in his letter to Baron Humboldt, it would be superflu- ous to show how little weight attaches to such testimonies. It appears from an Arabic MS. in the Library at Paris, that even the Arabs used the compass in 1242. With regard to its introduction into Europe, passing over the MS. poem by Guyot de Provins, of 1190, in the Paris Library, from which the allu- sion to la maniere , or la manette , has been quoted by most writers on the history of magnetism, we may observe that fticcioli asserts that the French navigators, in the reign of St. Louis, used the water compass, a magnetised needle sustained by tubes on the sur- face of a basin of water. Cardinal de Vitri, who was Bishop of Jerusalem during the fourth crusade, which com- menced in 1203, a cent, earlier than the date of Gioia, distinctly states in his Historia Orientalis, that the com- pass was used by the Saracens in his time, and describes it as a novelty to himself. The Leyden MS. of Adsiger describes the variation of the needle and the use of the compass in Europe, in 1269, for land travelling. Finally, Brunetto Latini, who died in 1294, eight years before the date assigned to the discovery of Gioia, in his Tresor , describes the use of the magnetic needle by the navigators of Europe. Although these descriptions establish the use of the compass in Europe before the middle of the 13th cent., it is more than probable that it was in use long before. To apply these remarks to Amalfi, we would suggest that, as the Arabs must have derived their know r - ledge of the instrument from the Chi- nese, so the Saracens may be presumed to have communicated it to the Eu- ropeans during the crusades ; and as Amalfi had more extensive relations with the Holy Land at that period than any other naval power of Europe, 256 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CONCA. — POSITANO. it is natural to suppose that her navi- gators availed themselves of the know- ledge thus acquired. And although there is no proof of the claim of Flavio Grioia to the discovery of the compass, yet it is probable that the Amalfitans improved the instrument and promoted its general use in S. Europe. Amalfi, has five villages dependent on it : Pogerola , Pastina , Lene , Vettica Minore, and Tovere ; all lying W. of the town. The district in which they are is rich in vineyards, olive-groves, and fruit-trees of various kinds ; while the coast abounds with the aloe and the prickly pear, the cactus opuntia of Linnaeus. Pogerola has a small manu- factory of iron nails. On the hill be- hind Vettica Minore is the deserted hermitage of Cuospito , with a grotto near it, which is said to have been once used by Sixtus IY. as a place of refuge. The best plan for seeing in a short time the most remarkable features of the scenery surrounding Amalfi is to ride to the Ferriera at the head of the valley of the Molini, whence a good path ascends to Pontone , S. Fustachio , and Scala. From thence to Pavello, returning either by the valley of Atrani to Amalfi (4 hrs.), or by S. Martino and the waterfall near the head of the valley to Minori , and thence by the carriage-road to Amalfi (6 hrs.). The traveller who is desirous of visit- ing Salerno and Psestum from Amalfi, may do so either by land or water. In the former case he may proceed to Salerno along the coast through Maiori, Cetara, and Yietri, by the new carriage- road. By water the distance from Amalfi to Salerno is about 8 m.; a boat with 4 oars may be hired to con- vey a party for 3 ducats or even less. The traveller who has no time to ex- plore the neighbourhood of Amalfi, may visit Atrani as he passes, thence ascend to Bavello, by far the most in- teresting town in the district, and re- join the boat at Minori. This detour would detain the boat about 3 hours. TOWNS OE THE COSTIERA d’aMALET. In the neighbourhood of Amalfi are 12 small towns, which are well worthy of a visit, some on account of their pic- turesque position, and others for their historical or artistic interest. Six lie on the W. and six more on the E. of the Amalfi valley. I. Western Costiera. — Conca (1300 Inhab.), prettily situated on the neck of the promontory to which it gives name, and which is so narrow near the town as to be almost isolated. It is one of the most industrious little ports in the Gulf of Salerno. Its merchants have nearly all the foreign trade of the coast in their hands, their ships being fre- quently seen in the ports of the Levant and even in those of the United States. Furore (800 Inhab.), situated be- tween Conca and Praiano, on an almost inaccessible precipice, in one of the wildest positions of this coast. It is said to derive its name from the roar- ing of the waves in stormy weather. Two of its chs. contain antique cine- rary urns. The ch. of S. Elia has a painting of the Byzantine school. Praiano , placed amidst vineyards and olive-groves which produce excel- lent oil. The ch. of St. Luke contains a few pictures. Vettica Maggiore adjoins Praiano. The ch. of S. Gennaro contains a pic- ture of the Holy Family by Zingaro y and some works by Bernardo Lama. Positano (3000 Inhab.), a singular town, extending from the sea-shore to the summit of a rocky hill, is a more pleasing object from the sea than when it is entered. Under the house of Anjou it was a place of considerable maritime importance. In the final struggle of Conradin, the Pisan fleet* which espoused his cause, attacked Po- sitano as one of the strongholds of the Angevine party, sacked the town, and destroyed its ships. It disputes with Amalfi the honour of being the birth- place of Flavio Gioia. The ch. of S. Maria dell’ Assunta contains a singular bas-relief of a sea monster, with the EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. ATRANI. — SCALA. 257 head and forelegs of a wolf and the tail of a sea-serpent, in the act of swallow- ing a fish. This sculpture is supposed to hare been taken from some temple dedicated to Neptune, from whose Greek name, Poseidon , the Neapolitan anti- quarians derive the name of the town. Agerola (4000 Inhab.), picturesquely built on a small plateau below the E. slopes of the Monte S. Angelo, is a very cold place in winter, and has a Swiss air about it. It has 5 dependent hamlets scattered over the mountains. On the N.E. is Campora , in whose churches are some pictures by Andrea Malinconico , and by Michele Pegolia. N. of Agerola are the ruins of the Castel di Pino , supposed to have been founded in the 10th cent, by Mastolo I., Doge of Amalfi. The wolf is still common among the high mountains near Agerola. II. Pastern Costiera. — Ateani (3000 Inhab.) is so shut in by mountains that its name is said to be derived from its position at the mouth of the dark and gloomy gorge of the Dragone. Atrani and Amalfi may be said to join at the coast-line, though the deep ra- vines up which they run are divided by a mountainous promontory, crowned by the vast ruins of the castle of Pon- tone. In former times it was surrounded by walls. It has suffered considerably from the encroachments of the sea. The ch. of S. Salvadore di Bireto , which, ac- cording to the inscription in Latin verse at the entrance, was the scene of the election of the Doges of Amalfi and their place of burial, has bronze doors with the date 1087 and the name of Pantaleone Viaretta, by whom they were erected pro mercede animce suce et merita S. Sebastiani martgris. The bells in the campanile are dated 1298. Within the ch. is a slab, built into the wall, bearing a bas-relief of a curious character. A tree, from whose sum- mit a bird is taking flight, separates two peacocks with their wings ex- tended : one peacock stands on the head of a man against which two Syrens are reclining their heads ; the other stands on the back of a hare, which is attacked in front and in the rear by two birds of prey. Nothing is known of the history or signification of this sculpture. Another sepulchral slab, with a female figure in the costume of the 14th cent., and an inscription in Angevine letters, records the names of the families of Freccia and d’Afflitto, both well known in the history of the period ; it was brought from the ruined ch. of S. Eustachio at Pontone. In the sacristy is an antique cinerary urn, on an inscribed pedestal. An old tower, which forms a conspicuous object from whatever quarter Atrani is seen, is sup- posed to have been erected by the Sara- cens who were sent here by Manfred to occupy the town during his disputes with Innocent IY. Half way up the mountain is the building called the House of Masaniello, who is erroneously supposed tohavebeen born here in 1622. In the little ch. of S. Caterina, in the Piazza del Mercato, in Naples, is preserved the Register of Bap- tisms, in which the name of Tommaso Aniello , the son of Cicco d’ Amalfi and of Antonia Gargano , of the Vico Potto di Lavinaio , a small street adjoining the Piazza, appears among the baptisms of the 29tli of June, 1620. This docu- ment was discovered only a few years ago. The register of marriages in the same ch. records the marriage of Cicco d’ Amalfi and Antonia Gargano, on the 18th of February of the same year, a date which explains the term bastard, which was applied to him by the royalist historians of his insurrection. Scala (1400 Inhab.) is situated on the E. slopes of the precipitous hill which divides the gorge of Atrani from that of Amalfi. It commands the ra- vine of the Dragone, and is backed by the lofty ridge of Monte Cerreto. It was formerly surrounded by walls which are said to have had 100 towers, and to have included within them no less than 130 churches ; a statement which it would be difficult to credit, if we were not assured by an ancient tradition that the present suburbs of Pontone and 258 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.— RAVEL LO. Minuto stood within the circuit of the walls. In 1113 Scala was sacked by the Pisans, and two years later, when Amalfi surrendered without striking a blow, Scala offered resistance to the invaders ; but the superior force of the Pisans enabled them to carry the place by storm, and to pillage the city and its suburb of Scaletta. It was the birthplace of Gerardo, the first prior of the order of the Knights of St. J ohn of J erusalem. The bishopric of Scala, instituted in 987 by John XVI., was united by Clement VIII. in 1603 to that of Ravello. The Vescovado has a crypt, containing a crucifix of local celebrity for its miraculous powers, and two tombs of some interest; the first is that of Simonetta Sannella, with the date of 1348 ; the other is that of Ma- rinella Rufolo, the wife of Antonio Coppola, who died about 1400 ; it is of fine stucco, and has been richly co- loured. The picture of the Assump- tion is attributed to Marco da Siena. In the sacristy is preserved the bishop’s mitre, a fine specimen of the gold- smith’s art of the 13th cent. ; it was presented to the citizens by Charles I., as an acknowledgment of their services during the African expedition of St. Louis against the Moors. The marble pulpit is the only fragment which iioav exists of the ch. of Tutti Santi , founded and endowed by the Coppola family in the 14th cent. The ch. of S. Pietro a Castagna contains a very curious sepulchral slab of the 14th cent., on which are the effigies of 14 members of the Trara family. They are in monastic costume, and have their hands crossed. The little village of Ponione , which, with its massive ruins, forms so conspicuous an object from the sea, ‘was called Scaletta in the middle ages, when it was a suburb of Scala. Its basilica of S. Eustachio, erected in the 10th cent., was fortified by walls and towers, the ruins of which remain to attest the magnificence of its plan. In the pavement of the ch. of S. Gio- vanni is a slab, bearing the effigy of Filippo Spina, one of the counsellors of Joanna I., in full costume as a cavalier, j with his dogs at his feet and the date 1346. The ch. of the Annunziata of Minuto contained a curious pulpit of the 14th cent., supported on four marble columns, and ornamented with vine-leaves, bunches of grapes, birds, and the armorial bearings of the Spina family ; but it was destroyed in the year 1854 by order of the Archbishop of Amalfi. On the ridge of the mountain behind Scala is the ruined hermitage of S. Maria de' Monti , fre- quently visited for the view which it commands. Between this hermitage and the village of Lettere, on the pla- teau of the mountains, is a deep natural gulf, called the Megano ; it is about 25 ft. in diameter, and the water at the bottom is said by tradition to commu- nicate with a spring at Castellammare. Ravello (1500 Inhab.), since the carriage-road to Amalfi Has been opened, may be conveniently reached from the latter place, where donkeys and mules can be procured, and portantini for ladies, for which the very moderate charge of 12 carlini, to go and return, is made. It is beautifully situated nearly opposite Scala, on the E. side of the ravine of the Dragone, and surrounded by vineyards and gar- dens. It is said to have been founded in the 9th cent., by some of the patri- cian families of Amalfi, who separated themselves from the Pepublic. In the 11th cent, they placed themselves under the protection of Kobert Guiscard, whose son Koger rewarded their at- tachment to the Norman cause by in- ducing the Pope, Victor III., to erect the town into a bishopric in 1086. At that time it was surrounded by walls, which included within their cir- cuit a large population, 13 churches, 4 monasteries, and numerous palaces and public buildings. The town is filled with fragments of ruins, and many of the modern houses are built with the re- mains of mediaeval edifices. The cathe- dral was founded in the 11th centy. by Niccolo Eufolo, Duke of Sora and grand admiral under Count Roger of Sicily. The bronze doors, with their 54 compartments of beautiful sculp- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — MINORI. — MAIORI. 259 tures, were erected, as tlie inscription tells us, by Sergio Muscettola and liis wife Sigelgaita in 1179. In the delicacy of their workmanship, and in the taste and variety of their decorations, they are most interesting examples of art in the 12th centy. The marble pulpit, inlaid with mosaics, is supported by six spiral columns resting on the backs of lions ; in front of it is a small spiral column with an eagle and the inscrip- tion In 'princijoio erat verbum. The steps by which it is entered are en- closed in a marble case, covered with mosaics ; the arch of the doorway is surmounted by the bust of Sigelgaita Kufolo. A Latin inscription in Leo- nine verse records the construction of the pulpit in 1272, at the cost of Niccolo Kufolo, a descendant of the grand admiral : the artist, as we read in another inscription, was Niccolo di Bartolommeo Fogia. An ambo, with arabesque mosaics and dolphins, bears the name of Costantino Kogadeo, the 2nd bishop of Kavello, about the year 1130. The bishop’s chair is approached by mosaic steps, which formed part of the high altar. A few sepulchral slabs bear the names of Kufolo, d’Afflitto, Castaldo, Kogadeo, and other families of the district. The chapel of S. Pan- taleone contains a picture of the school of DomenicMno, representing the mar- tyrdom of the saint. In this chapel is preserved a bottle of the blood of S. Pantaleone, which is believed to liquefy on the anniversary of his martyrdom. In this cathedral Adrian IY., Nicholas Breakspeare of St. Albans, celebrated high mass in 1156, in the presence of 600 nobles of Kavello, 36 of whom were Knights of St. John. Near the cathedral is the Palazzo Kufolo, in for- mer times the most magnificent palace on this coast. It is a structure of imposing size, with a cloister of Sara- cenic arches, in two stories. It was built by the Kufolo family about the middle of the 12 th centy. The palace was occupied at various periods by Adrian IY., Charles II., and Kobert the Wise. It is now the property and residence of our countryman, Mr. Francis Nevile Keid. The terrace in front of the building commands a mag- nificent view of the bay of Salerno. Minori , an industrious town of 2500 Inhab., occupies a beautiful position in the midst of orange-groves and vine- yards, near the shore at the entrance of a valley watered by the torrent Kegin- nolo. Minori was once one of the ar- senals of the Amalfitans. The ch., which has been recently rebuilt, pre- serves in the crypt the body of Sa. Tro- fimena, the possession of which was so much coveted during the wars between Amalfi and Sicardo of Benevento in the 9th centy. On the W. shore near the town, at a place called Marmorata , is a cavern, about 75 ft. long and 15 ft. high at the entrance, but it gradually nar- rows towards the end, where water issues from the rock in great volume, and in one part forms a pool upwards of 20 ft. in depth. Mciiori (4000 Inliab.), said to have been founded in the 9th cent, by Si- cardo, is situated near the seashore at the mouth of the valley of Tramonti. The torrent Senna divides it into nearly equal parts, supplying the motif e power of its paper and maccaroni mills. Above the town is the old castle of S. Nicola, with its massive walls and embattled towers, which in later times was a stronghold successively of the Sanse- verini, the Colonna, and the Piccolo- mini. The ch. of S. Maria in Mare contains a bas-relief illustrating the principal events in the life of our Sa- viour and the Yirgin : the roof of the crypt is supported by 8 marble columns. The ch. of the suppressed monastery of S. Francesco contains a monument of the Imperato family, dated 1587, and several pictures by unknown artists, of which the Transfiguration is the best. E. of the town, on the S. peak of Monte Falesio, is the ruined monastery of the Camaldoli , founded in 1485 by the citi- zens of Maiori under the title of S. Maria clelV Avvocata ; it is a conspi- cuous object from all parts of this coast. About a mile S.E. of Maiori is a lofty headland formed by Monte Fa- lesio, and terminating in two points, of 260 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. NAPLES TO NOCERA. which the W. is the Capo cV Orso, and the E. the Capo del Tumolo. The Capo d’ Orso was the scene of the naval vic- tory gained by the French fleet, com- manded by Filippino Doria, over the Spanish fleet of Charles V., commanded by his viceroy Don Hugo de Mon 9 ada. In this battle Don Hugo was killed, with several of his captains, and his body thrown into the sea. The Capo del Tumolo is remarkable for the strong currents setting round it. It is distant 3| m. from Salerno, and 20L m. from the Punta della Campanella. JErchia , a little hamlet beyond the Capo del Tumolo, is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Hercules. Cetara , a fishing village whose in- habitants are engaged in the anchovy fisheries, was in the middle ages the E. frontier of the Republic of Amalfi. It was the haunt of the Saracens during their incursions on this coast, and in the war between Charles V. and Henry II. it was depopulated by the Turkish fleet, which the latter had summoned to his aid. In 1799 it acquired the reputation of being a nest of pirates. In its ch. is the tomb of Giandonato Aulisio, the mariner of Cava, Who, with the Corsican Captain Mariotto Broggi, rescued Prince Frederic, the second son of Ferdinand I. of Aragon, from the power of the rebellious barons in 1481. NAPLES TO NOCERA, CAVA, AND SALERNO. The Railroad to Cava passes through Portici, Torre del Greco, Torre dell’ Annunziata, Pompeii, Sca- fati, Angri, Pagani, and Nocera, per- forming the distance in If hr. The trains leave the Stat,. six times a day. After passing Torre dell’ Annunziata and Pompeii, it crosses, at Scafati, the Sarno, the Sarnus of the Romans, and the Rracontio of the middle ages. Sarrastes populos, et qua; rigat aequora Sarnus. Vikg. JSn. vii. Nec Pompeiani placeant magis otia Sarni. Statius, Silv. ii. 2. This place was the scene of two deci- sive battles, the first in 1132, between King Roger and the Counts of Capua and Alife and the Cardinal Crescenzio, governor of Benevento, by the loss of which the Norman prince was com- pelled to retire for a time to Sicily ; — the second, July 7th, 1460, between Ferdinand I. of Aragon, and John Duke of Anjou, son of King Rene, supported by the Prince of Taranto and Jacopo Piccinino. Ferdinand was de- feated, and escaped with only 20 horse- men to Naples ; and Simonetto, the general whom Pius II. had sent to aid him, was left dead on the field. After this defeat, Ferdinand and his family were reduced to such straits that Queen Isabella walked through the streets of Naples with a box in her hand to col- lect contributions for carrying on the war ; and afterwards, in the disguise of a Franciscan monk, penetrated to the enemy’s camp to entreat her uncle, the Prince of Taranto, to embrace the cause of her husband. Further on, on the rt., is the town of Angri. The soil on both sides of the road is characterised by great fertility. On this plain, between the Sarno and the hills of Lettere on the S., the last king of the Goths, Teias, was defeated by Narses, the general of Justinian, in 553. The fatal action, which had been preceded by a succession of combats lasting for a period of sixty days, was precipitated by the desertion of the fleet and the failure of the provisions, which caused the Goths to get rid of their horses and die in arms. Teias, who had taken up his position on Monte Sant’ Angelo, descended with his warriors to the plain. “ The King,” says Gibbon, “ marched at their head, I bearing in his right hand a lance, and I an ample buckler in his left ; with the one he struck dead the foremost of the assailants, with the other he received the weapons which every hand was am- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. NOCERA. 261 bitious to aim against bis bfe. After a combat of many hours, liis left arm was fatigued by the weight of twelve javelins which hung from his shield. Without moving from his ground or suspending his blows, the hero called aloud on his attendants for a fresh buckler, but, in the moment while his side was uncovered, it was pierced by a mortal dart. He fell : and his head, exalted on a spear, proclaimed to the nations that the Gothic kingdom was no more.” The exact scene of this event was long known as Pizzo Aguto , a name in which the local antiquaries recognise the corruption of the words ad ccesos Gothos. One mile before Nocera is the town of Pagani (8000 Inhab.), which contains the body of S. Alfonso de Liguori, who was canonised in 1839 by Gregory XYI. His body is preserved in a glass case in the ch. of S. Michele. In 1850 Pius IX. visited the tomb, accompanied by the King of Naples, and, taking off his Pontifical ring, placed it on the finger of the saint. NOCERA. This town (7400 Inhab.), known in classical times as Pfuceria , or Nuceria Alfaterna , the rival of Pompeii, which was captured by Hannibal, is situated at the base of a hill crowned by its ancient citadel, and is surrounded by isolated hills. It is often called No- cera de' Pagani , to distinguish it from a second Nocera in Calabria, and a third in Umbria. The origin of the designation de’ Pagani has been much disputed among the local antiquaries. Some suppose it obtained this epithet by a colony of Saracens having been brought here from Palermo by Fre- derick II., to counteract the influence of the Holy See (Kte. 148). Others, on the contrary, contend that it was derived from the villages, jpagis , into which its inhab. were scattered by the wars of the Goths and the Longo- bards, a name kept to this day by one of them, Pagani , winch is now larger than Nocera itself. This opinion gains support from the fact that the word Pagani was not first introduced in the 9th or 10th cent, to point out the Ma- hometans, who were then always called Saraceni ; but it is of earlier origin, and was applied to those gentiles who, living in villages, adhered longer to their old creed, thence called Paganism. Hugo, the founder of the Order of the Knights Templars, and Solimena the painter, were natives of the town ; and Paolo Giovio, the historian, was created bishop of the diocese by Cle- ment YII. The Citadel of Nocera has been the scene of many memorable events. Si- billa, the widow of Manfred, and her son Manfredino, died in its prisons soon after the battle of Benevento ; and St. Louis of Anjou, the canonised son of their conqueror, who preferred the cowl of a Franciscan to the crown of the Two Sicilies, was born within its walls. At the close of the 14th cent, it was one of the strongholds of the Angevine party during the contest for the throne between Louis of Anjou and Charles Durazzo. It was occupied by the im- petuous Urban VI., who assembled there his Cardinals, and assumed a power superior to that of the Sovereign on whom he had himself conferred the crown. Charles Durazzo sent Count Alberico, his grand Constable, to be- siege him with three field-pieces ; but the Pope, secure in his retreat, con- tented himself with appearing three or four times a-day at the window of the castle, with bell and candle in hand, to pronounce his curse of excommuni- cation on the besiegers. It was during this siege that the Pope, suspecting the fidelity of the Cardinal Archbishops of Taranto, Corfu, and Genoa, and the Cardinals di Sangro and Donati, caused them to be tortured with most- revolting cruelty. After witnessing their torture he confined them in a cistern, reserving them for a more ter- rible fate. Tommaso Sanseverino and Kaimondello Orsini, who came to his 262 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CAVA. rescue, having forced their way through the besieging army, took him by the valley of Sanseverino and by Giffoni to Buccino, among the fastnesses of the Apennines, where he waited the arrival of the Genoese galleys at the mouth of the Sele. During his voyage he had the five Cardinals tied up in sacks and thrown into the sea. The story is dif- ferently told by some historians, who add the Cardinal Bishops of Bieti and London to the number, and state that they were carried to Genoa, where they were executed, except the English Car- dinal, who was spared at the interces- sion of his countrymen there, or, as others will have it, of Bichard II., whose legate he was. In the middle of the town are the large barracks built by Charles III. from the designs of Van- vitelli. There is a good road from Nocera to Sanseverino, falling into the route from Avellino to Salerno. It is in many parts interesting, but longer and less beautiful than the other by Cava. On this road, 3 m. from Nocera, is the village^ of Materdomini, at the foot of a conical hill crowned with the pic- turesque ruin of a mediaeval castle. It takes its name from the ancient ch. and Monastery of the Basilians , now occu- pied by the Franciscans. The ch. con- tains the tomb of Bobert of Anjou, son of Charles I., and of Queen Bea- trice, the first wife of the same mo- narch. On the high road to Cava, 2 m. be- yond Nocera, is the ch. of S. Maria Maggiore , in the village of the same name, originally an ancient temple, restored and employed as a baptistery in the early ages of Christianity. It resembles in its form S. Stefano Bo- tondo at Borne. The interior is damp, and is falling into ruin ; its arched roof is supported by a double row of 28 columns, of different orders and dif- ferent lengths, of which 5 are of ori- ental alabaster, and the rest mostly of precious marbles. In the centre is an octagonal baptismal font. Some Bo- man statues were found near it in 1843. The valley widens out between No- cera and La Cava, and is diversified by hamlets, churches, villas, and ruined castles, embosomed in trees, or sur- rounded by vineyards and cornfields, presenting a scene of cultivation and homely beauty which will explain the influence of the spot in forming the taste of Claude. The road passes through plantations of poplars which are topped to serve as props for vines. The numerous long narrow towers scattered over the country, having at a distance the appearance of columns, are used for catching wild pigeons. The mode of capturing the birds is pe- culiar to the district of La Cava. In every tower one or more slingers are stationed, who are warned by criers, called gridatori , of the approach of the birds ; they then throw their slings, furnished with white stones, towards those parts of the field where the nets are spread • the birds instantly follow the lure, and are captured in great num- bers. CAVA. Inns : Hotel de Londres , very good ; Hotel Victoria , also well spoken of. Cava is a flourishing town of 13,000 Inhab. It consists of one long street with arcades under the houses similar to those of Bologna ; it is a frequent resort of the Neapolitans and foreigners during the summer and autumn, when furnished apartments may be found at a moderate expense. The chief interest of Cava is the , Benedictine Monastery, called La Tri- nita della Cava. It was founded in 1025, by Guaimar III., the Lombard Prince of Salerno, the grandfather of Sigelgaita the second wife of Bobert Guiscard. S. Alferius was the first abbot. The road to the monastery leads through vineyards and chestnut- trees, backed by the high peaks of Mte. Finestra. The monastery is embosomed | in the wildest scenes of wood and mountain, but the style of its architec- ture is not in harmony with its ro- mantic position. EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — CAVA. 263 The Church contains the tombs of — 1st, S. Aleerius, the founder of the convent ; 2nd, Sibilla, the second wife of King Roger, and the sister of the Duke of Burgundy ; she died at Sa- lerno. 3rd, of several Antipopes, with whose history the monastery has been singularly associated. Theodoric, the antagonist of Paschal II. (1110), died here as a simple monk : and a stone, with a mitre reversed, in the walls of the ch., is supposed to mark the grave of the Antipope Gregory VIII., appointed by the influence of the Emp. Henry V. in opposition to Gelasius II. (1118). Its organ is one of the best in Italy. A passage behind the vestry leads to what was the ancient monastery, built in the Gothic style under the rock, and now used as store rooms. Beneath the monastery there is a large Grotto , or cavern in the limestone rock. But the great attraction of the mo- nastery are its vast Archives, contain- ing 40,000 parchment rolls, and up- wards of 60,000 MSS. on paper. Many of the Diplomas, which amount, with the Papal Bulls, to 1600 in number, relate to the early and mediaeval his- tory of Italy. In this respect, Cava, like Monte Casino, is a perfect mine of national history during at least 4 cen- turies ; and it is much to he desired that some competent person would publish a complete analysis of its trea- sures, — a task which the admirable classed catalogues of Padre Rossi, the archivist, would materially facilitate. The collection commences with a di- ploma of 840, in which Radelchi, Prince of Beneventum, assigns to the Abbot of Santa Sofia some property which had been forfeited to him by a rebel. Two are diplomas of the Guai- mari, princes of Salerno, with their effigies still perfect on the seals, though they date from the 9th and 11th cen- turies. Another, dated 1120, with a golden seal, is a diploma of King Roger of Sicily, granting to this monastery several lands in the island of Sicily, with some Saracenic and Christian slaves. Another is a diploma of Bald- win VI., King of Jerusalem, granting the freedom of navigation to the ships of the monastery. The Bulls date from the year 500, and include several which are inedited. The judicial documents afford a very curious insight into the domestic and social habits of the mid- dle ages, particularly those of the Lom- bard period. Among them may be mentioned the celebrated example of the morgengabe of 793, or the deed of gift by which the husband assigned a part of his property to his wife on the morning after marriage ; a curious deed of 844, by which the seducer, who was unable to pay the fine imposed on him, is handed over to the damsel as security for the payment ; and the deed of conveyance by the stick {jper fustem). In addition to these the family, municipal, and ecclesiastical registers, and other documents of a local character, are of inestimable value as illustrating the civic history and to- pography of the kingdom. Giannone and other writers availed themselves largely of these materials, and Eilangieri com- posed within the monastery bis famous work on the Science of Legislation. The Library was formerly rich in rare and curious MSS., but many have been stolen or dispersed. At present the collection contains about 60 MSS. ranging from the 7th to the 14th cent. The Codex Legum Longobardorum , dated 1004, contains a more complete digest of Lombard law than any other in existence. The illuminated Bibles are of great beauty, and a Collection of Prayers is enriched with exquisite mi- niatures by Beato Angelico da Fiesole. Another treasure of great value is the MS. Latin Vulgate , which every bibli- cal scholar will regard with attentive interest. It is a quarto MS. of the Old and New Testaments, of the text of St. Jerome, after the reading of Ida- cius Clarus (Vigilius), who was Bishop of Thapsus at the end of the 5th cent. It is beautifully written on vellum, in small cursive character, with three co- lumns in a page and no divisions be- tween the words, except an occasional full point at the end of the sentences. At the suggestion of Cardinal Mai, who considered it as old as the 7th cent, at the latest, Leo XII. ordered an exact 264 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. CAVA. — VIETRI. transcript to be made of it for the Va- tican Library. The MS. was first de- scribed by the Abb6 Rozan ; it has since been noticed by Cardinal Wiseman, who supposes, from the dogmatic manner in which every argument in favour of the divinity of Christ is urged by the copy- ist, that it was written during the Arian controversy. The copyist has introduced these arguments in mar- ginal notes, written in such minute character, that some of them are ille- gible without the aid of a lens. The MS. is relied upon as an authority by Wiseman and other recent advocates of the authenticity of the verse of the First Epistle General of John, called “the verse of the three heavenly wit- nesses.” The question at issue on this verse, so learnedly argued by Porson, Burgess, Turton, Mill, and other Eng- lish scholars, is whether the verse was ever written by the Apostle John, or whether it found its way into the MS. of the Latin Vulgate from a marginal Scholion ; since it does not appear either in the text or margin of any G-reek MS. down to the 16th cent., and only in two of the whole 151 Greek MSS. of the Scriptures which are now known to exist. The version of Cava contains this verse. As, however, it omits from the fourth verse of the context the words — hie est victoria quee vincit mundum, and transfers the 8th verse before the 7th, we quote the entire passage. It will be found in our version as 1 John v. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Quo- niam homne quod natum est ex Deo vincit mundum. Fides nra. Quis est autem qui vincit mundum nisi qui credit quia Ihsfilius Dei est. hie est qui venit per aquam et sanguinem et spm Ihs Xg;. Ft non in aqua solum sed in aqua et sanguine et spu. Spiritus est qui testi- Ucatur qam Ihs est veritas. Quia tres sunt qui testimonium dant in terra . Spi- ritus et aqua et sanguis, et hii fmnum sunt in Xoo Jhu. Ft tres sunt qui tes- timonium dicunt in ccelo. Pater . ver- bum . et sps . et hii tres hunum sunt. To the latter verse the copyist has added the following marginal note against the Arians : Audiet hoc Arius et ceteri. — The early printed books amount to about 600. Among them is Gerson De Passionibus Animi , Mentz, • 1467 ; the Biblia Latina Vulgata , Venice, in folio, 1467 ; the Editio prin- ceps of Eusebius’s Historia , printed in G-othic type about 1470, of Politian’s translation of Herodian Historiarum, Rome, 1493 ; of Thomas a Kempis’ Be Imitation e Christi, printed by Gunther Zainer ; the folio Juvenal of 1478, and the Tibullus of 1488. Salvator Rosa is said to have resided at Cava, and to have embodied many of its scenes in his best pictures. Of the numerous beautiful rides that there are round Cava, we shall only mention, 1. The ride from the hotel to the monastery of la Trinitd , which falls eventually into the usual road to it. 2. The ride to the summit of Monte Finestra: the last part of the path must be made on foot. 3. The ride to the village of S. Lucia. 4. The ride to the top of the hill of S. Liberatore, which commands at once the bay of Salerno and the valley of Vietri and Cava with all their villages ; and the descent thence on the Salerno side. From the monastery of La Trinitd there is a mule-track commanding fine views, which crosses the summit of Capo d' Orso, and descends by S. Maria dell ’ Avvocata to Maiori. Leaving Cava for Salerno, we de- scend the valley for about 3 m. through exceedingly fine scenery, the road running by the side of a ravine with a torrent, and the village of Mo- lina at the bottom, till it reaches Vietri. An aqueduct crosses the whole breadth of the ravine. Vietri (5000 Inhab.), beautifully situated at the extremity of the valley, on the Gulf of Salerno. The road passes through the town by a long street ; in the ravine below it are several villas situated amidst the pic- turesque scenery of the valley. Just before entering the town, the new road of the Costiera to Amalfi branches off on the rt., crossing the deep ravine by EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. —SALERNO. 265 a handsome bridge on a double tier of arches. The high road proceeds round the base of the mountain, along the coast of the gulf, to SALERNO. Inn : — The Vittoria, good ; — another very fair on the quay near to the sea shore. Carriages 'will always be found in readiness on the arrival of the trains at Cava to proceed to Salerno, fare 5 or 6 carlini ; as well as for Amalfi and Pses- tum, fares 3 and 5 piastres. Salerno (16,000 Inhab.) is beautifully situated at the N. extremity of the gulf to which it gives name, partly on the slopes of the S. Apennines which protect it on the N. and E., and partly on the skirts of the fertile plain which forms the curve of the gulf. It is an archiepiscopal city, the capi- tal of Princijpato Citra , and the resi- dence of a large number of the nobility of the principality. The society during the summer season is said to be agree- able, and there is a good theatre. The traveller who happens to visit it during the September fair will see a great display of cattle and a singular collection j of costumes. The old city is irregularly and badly I built, and its narrow and dirty streets were inconvenient until the construc- tion of the Marina, which is 1 m. long. The Cathedral alone remains to mark the importance of Salerno in the middle ages ; but it has been so much altered in recent times that its characteristic architecture has been destroyed. It was founded and dedicated to St. Mat- thew in 1084, by Robert Gniscard, who | plundered Peestum of its bas-reliefs, its columns of verde-antique and other ornaments, in order to embellish it. I The quadrangle is surrounded by a J peristyle of ancient columns, part of the f; spoils of Psestum. In the centre for- | merly stood a granite basin, now in the i Villa Reale at Naples. Round the en- |j T S. Italy .] closure are 14 ancient sarcophagi, con- verted by the Normans and their suc- cessors into Christian sepulchres. The bronze doors were erected by Landolfo Butromile, in 1099. The interior, mo- dernised and whitewashed, is more re- markable for its Crypt and its historical tombs than for its architecture. The Tombs include those, among others, of Sigelgaita, the second wife of Robert Guiscard ; Roger Bursa, their son ; Duke William, the son of Roger Bursa, at whose death the direct line of the Norman dukes became extinct; and Gregory VII., Hildebrand, who died here in 1085, the guest of Robert Guis- card, who survived him only two months. His last words commemo- rate his persecution by the Emperor Henry IV. : Dilexi justiliam et odivi iniquitatem ; projpterea morior in exi- lio. His tomb was restored in 1578 by the Archbishop Colonna, who wrote an inscription for it : on opening the vault, the body of the Pope is said to have been found perfect, and still clothed in the pontifical robes. The two pulpits and the archbishop’s throne, which are said to have been executed by order of John ofProcida, are fine examples of the rich mosaic work which was introduced into Italy by Greek artists. The crypt, which is rich in ornament and mosaics, contains the body of the Evangelist St. Matthew , which is said to have been brought here from the East in 930. It contains also the tomb of Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Charles Durazzo and the mother of Ladislaus and Joanna II. The altar of St. Matthew and the Con- fessionals are the work of Domenico Fontana. The three antique sarco- phagi in the ch. are singular ornaments for a religious edifice, and for the tombs of Christian prelates. Two of them, containing the bodies of archbishops of Salerno, represent the Triumphs of Bacchus and Ariadne ; the third, which now forms the base of a monument erected in the last cent, to another archbishop, represents the Rape of Proserpine. There are many other chs. in Salerno, N 266 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — SALERNO. but they contain nothing worthy of observation. In the Archbishop’s stable are six columns, said to have been brought from Psestum. Salerno became a Roman colony under the empire, and was celebrated by the Latin poets for the beauty of its situation. In the history of the middle ages, it occupies a prominent place as the only port which the princes of Be- nevento possessed on the S. coast of Italy, and which they often made their permanent residence. After the break-up of the Duchy of Benevento, Salerno had its own Lom- bard princes down to the middle of the 11th cent., when, after a siege of 8 months, it was captured by Robert Guiscard, who was wounded in the breast during the attack. From this period it became one of the seats of the Norman government. The Parlia- ment of Barons, by which Roger was declared King of Naples and Sicily, was held within its walls in 1130. In 1193, during the long war between Tan- cred and Henry VI., Henry had left the empress Constance, the daughter of King Roger, at Salerno, while he re- turned to Germany ; but Tancred, in his absence, gained so many advantages over the forces left behind, that the people of Salerno, to ingratiate them- selves with the king, delivered the em- press into his hands. Tancred, who was her nephew, immediately sent her with all honour to Germany ; but the Emperor, while appreciating this act of the king, punished the Salernitans for their breach of faith by razing their city to the ground. The princes of the house of Suabia restored the town in the following cent. It was the birth- place of J ohn of Procida. The fame of Salerno in the middle ages was founded chiefly by the School of Medicine , to which it gave its name. Petrarch calls it the Fons Medicince , and Si . Thomas Aquinas mentions it as standing as pre-eminent in medicine as Paris was in science, or Bologna in law : — Parisiis in scientiis , Salernum in medicina , Bononia in legibus , Aureli- armm in auctoribus floruerunt. “ The treasures of Grecian medicine,” say 3 Gibbon, “had been communicated to the Arabian colonies of Africa, Spain, and Sicily ; and in the intercourse of peace and war, a spark of knowledge had been kindled and cherished at Salerno, an illustrious city in which the men were honest and the women beautiful.” The maxims of the School of Salerno were abridged in a string of aphorisms in Leonine verses of the 12th cent., and dedicated to the Rex Anglo - rum Edward the Confessor. As a speci- men of this work we give the following eulogium of the virtues of sage tea : — Cur moriatur homo, cui salvia crescit in horto ? Contra vim mortis non est medicamen in hortis ? Salvia salvatrix, naturae conciliatrix, Salvia cum ruta faciunt tibi pocula tuta. It must not, however, be supposed that the Salernian doctors confined their prescriptions to these preparations of . simples, or that their remedies were always of the same sort. The following is of a totally different character, and was no doubt more frequently fol- lowed : — Si nocturna tibi noceat potatio vini, Hoc ter mane bibas iterum, et fuerit medicina. The school attained its greatest cele- brity in the 12th cent. No person was allowed to practise medicine in the kingdom who had not been examined by this college. Proofs of legitimacy, and of having studied medicine for seven years, were required from the can - j didates. The examination was public, and consisted of expositions of Galen, Hippocrates, and Avicenna ; and after the examinations, the graduate was to practise for one year under a physician. Surgeons were to attend the medical course for a year previous to examina- tion, and no druggist was allowed to dispense medicines unless he had re- I ceived a certificate from the college. The port of Salerno was commenced in 1260, by Manfred, who commissioned John of Procida to superintend the j work. In 1318 it was completed by King Robert, but it is now almost filled up with sand. Some of the public buildings, among EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. PvESTUM. 267 which is the Palace of the Intendente, I are remarkable for their architecture. The lofty hill which rises immediately above the city is crowned by the ex- tensive ruins of the Citadel , before which Robert Gruiscard received his wound. The reader of Boccaccio will recollect that it is also the scene of the secret nuptials and tragical death of Sigismonda and Gluiscardo, the one the daughter and the other the page of Tancred. From Salerno excursions may be made to Psestum, Amalfi, and Sorrento. The routes by which the two .latter places may be reached have been de- scribed in our account of Amalfi. An excursion can also be made to Avellino (Rte. 148), and thence either return to Naples by Monteforte, or proceed to Benevento by Montesarchio (Rte. 146) . PJESTUM. Of all the objects that lie within the compass of an Excursion from Naples, Psestum is perhaps the most interest- ing. A journey to the South of Italy can hardly be considered complete if Paestum has not been visited. By the aid of the railway it is now easy to visit Paestum from Naples. The best mode is to go to Cava, where there is a good Inn , by an afternoon train, thence by a carriage to Salerno, and sleep there on the first night ; on the second day to take a carriage to Paestum, return to Salerno, or even to Cava, in time for the last train for Naples, or sleep at Cava or Salerno, and return on the third day to Naples by the same route, or vary it by combining the excursion with one to Amalfi and Sorrento. If Cava and Salerno have not been visited before, by going to Nocera by an early train there will be time on the 1st day to see the Ch. of S. Maria Maggiore, the Monastery at Cava (p. 262), and the Cathedral at £>alerno. The cost of a carriage with 2 horses from Cava to Salerno is 6 carlini. Travellers who are pressed for time, and wish to have a brief sight of the Temples, can per- form the journey in a single day, start- ing by the earliest train to Cava, and posting thence to Psestum and back. Psestum can also be reached in a day from Cava, where carriages may be hired for the excursion. In this way the tra- veller can also return in time for the last train to Naples. The road from Salerno through Bat- tipaglia to Psestum is charged 4^ posts, the real distance about 24 Eng. m., and is performed in from 3f to 4^ hours : fare of a good roomy carriage 4 to 5 scudi, and 1 for buonamano. From Eboli to Psestum, by Persano, there is a road of 14 m. On leaving Salerno the high-road to Calabria (Rte. 155) is followed as far as Battvpaglia , a small village on the Tusciano, where the branch-road to Psestum diverges on the rt. The route now lies across the unhealthy plain be- tween the Tusciano and the Sele. This river, the Silarus, was formerly crossed by a bridge constructed by Murat, but destroyed by the floods ; it must there- fore be passed in a ferry-boat, a pro- cess which often causes a detention of half an hour. When increased by the rams, considerable inconvenience arises from the impossibility of conveying a carriage across in the boat ; in this case travellers must endeavour to procure some means of conveyance on the other side of the river, or walk a distance of 4 miles. The Silarus was celebrated in ancient times for its calcareous incrustations : Nunc Silarus quos nutrit aquis, quo gurgite tradunt Duritiem lapidum mersis inolescere ramis. Sil. Ital. viii. 582. In flumine Silaro ultra Surrentum, non vir- gulta modo immersa, verum et folia lapidescunt. — Pliny. On the plain between this river and Psestum Crassus defeated the army of Spartacus. Near its banks in the 15th N 2 268 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — -PiESTUM, Ground Plan of the Ruins of P^estum in 1 855. 1. Tombs. 2. Bridge. 3. Porta Aurea. 4. Small Temple, supposed to be of Ceres or Vesta. 5. Modern Church. 6. Amphitheatre. 7. Supposed Temple of Peace. 8. Short Columns. 9. Forum Paestanum. 10. Large Temple of Neptune. 11. Circular excavation. REFERENCES. 12. Basilica. 13. Pocta Justitia. 14. Lucinella. 15. Pyramidal edifice. 16. Gate of the Syren, from the sculptured figure of a Syren. 17. Aqueduct. 18. Cisterns. 19. Ruined Towers along the City walls. 20. Circular Mound. 21. Secret Passages. 22. Marine Gate. 23. Fons Lupata. 24. Remains of Columns. 25. Circular edifice and Travertin deposits. 26. Modem Tower. 27. Traces of an Aqueduct. 28. Site of the Ancient Port. 29. Modern Farm Buildings. 30. Travertin incrustations. 31. Vestiges of the Ancient Streets 32. Modem Koad. Circuit of the Walls, 45 77 Yards. — Areaioithin the Walls, 1,101,350 Square Yards. EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. P2ESTUM. 269 cent, a battle was fought between the rebellious Barons and the troops of Ferdinand I. when the latter were de- feated. N. of the junction of the Calore with the Sele, and between the two rivers, is the Royal Hunting-ground of Persano , backed by the range of Monte Alburno. It is BO m. in circumference, and contains a villa residence. After passing the Sele, prettily placed on the hills to the E. is seen Capaccio Vecchio. Its ancient Cathedral is almost the only building remaining. Higher up the hill is Capaccio Nuovo. a thriving village, where the inhabitants removed as a healthier spot. Soon after we dis- cover the Temples. The plain extending from Battipaglia to Pgestum is tenanted by wild horses, buffaloes, swine and sheep, guarded by fierce dogs. The Salso , which formerly flowed by the walls of the city, is now choked with sand and calcareous deposits, and it overflows the plain, forming stagnant pools, the resort of herds of buffaloes. But within these 10 years cultivation has been creeping over the waste tract, owing chiefly to the industry of the inhab. of Capaccio Nuovo. The origin of Pa:stum, or Poseidonia as it was called previous to the Roman conquest, has been attributed by some antiquaries to the Phoenicians, and to the Etruscans by others ; while many have endeavoured to assign to it a more remote origin still. Yet the only his- torical account we have of its origin from Strabo is, that it was founded by a colony from Sybaris, probably when that city was in its highest prosperity. Strabo adds that it was originally founded close to the shore, whence it was afterwards removed inland. Its foundation must have taken place at least B.C. 600, for it was a flourishing colony when the Phocseans founded Velia in the reign of Cyrus, about 540 B.c., since Herodotus tells us that they employed a Posidonian as the architect of their city. After the defeat of Pyrrhus, B.c. 273, Posidonia shared the fate of all the possessions of the Lucanians, and became a Roman colony under the name of Pa:stfm. Athenseus tells us that the Posidonians, after the loss of their independence, and the abolition of their Greek customs, assembled annually at a solemn festival to revive the recol- lection, and weep in common over the loss, of their suppressed rites and lan- guage. Psestum soon declined in im- portance as a Roman colony. It is indeed scarcely mentioned from this period to the era of the Latin poets. In the time of Strabo the atmosphere was already contaminated by malaria, and, as the population diminished, the culti- vated plain gradually became converted into marsh-lands. The fall of the Roman empire hastened the ruin of the city. It was one of the first cities in S. Italy which embraced Christianity. The Sara- cens destroyed it in the 9th cent. The few remaining inhabitants, accompanied by their bishop, took refuge in the hills, and there founded the town of Capaccio Yecchio. Since that time the site has remained unoccupied. The ruins were despoiled by Robert Guiscard, to construct and enrich the Cathedral of Salerno. The ancient Walls of the city, built of large masses of travertine, are still erect throughout their entire circum- ference. They form an irregular pen- tagon, 2f u m. in circuit, and are in many places 12 ft. high. Remains of 8 towers and 4 gateways may be traced ; the E. gateway is almost perfect, and its arch, nearly 50 ft. high, is entire. Upon its keystones are the vestiges of two bas-reliefs, representing a syren and a dolphin ; the style of sculpture in these reliefs, though much defaced, has given rise to many conjectures on their origin. Some remains of the Aqueduct from the neighbouring moun- tains may be seen outside this gate- way, with some fragments of the pave- ment of the streets. From the con- struction of the walls, and especially of the gateway, it is evident that they are much more recent than the temples. In approaching Psestum from Salerno, the area within its walls is entered by the N. gateway, outside which was a Necropolis, where several tombs con- taining Greek armour and vases have 270 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. P^STUM. been discovered. One of the tombs re- cently opened has beautiful paintings on the walls, representing the departure of warriors, but nothing was found in it but the head of a spear. The Temples. — These magnificent ruins are, with the exception of those of Athens, the most striking existing re- cords of the genius and taste which in- spired the architects of Greece. It is remarkable that they are not even al- luded to by any ancient writer, although they are doubtless the most venerable examples of classical architecture in Italy. The principal and most ancient of these temples is the central one of the three, known as the Temple of Neptune. — (Length of upper step of stylobate, 195 ft. 4 in. ; breadth, 78 ft. 10 in. ; height of columns, including capitals, 28 ft. 11 in. ; dia- meter of columns at base, 6 ft. 10 in. ; number of flutings, 24 ; entablature, 12 ft. 2 in. Celia : length, 90 ft. ; breadth, 43 ft. 4 in. Columns of the cella: height, including capitals, 19 ft. 9 in. ; diameter at base, 4 ft. 8 in. ; number of flutings, lower range, 20 ; upper range, 16.) This temple, which is coeval with the earliest period of the Grecian emigration to the South of Italy, “ possesses,” says Mr. Wilkins, “ all the grand characteristics of that pre-eminent style of architecture. So- lidity, combined with simplicity and grace, distinguish it from the other buildings. . . . Low columns with a great diminution of the shafts, bold projecting capitals, a massive entabla- ture, and triglyphs placed at the angles of the zoophorus, are strong presumptive proofs of its great antiquity ; the shafts of the columns diminish in a straight line from the base to the top, although at first sight they have the appearance of swelling in the middle.” This deception is caused by the decay of the stone in the lower part of the shafts. The tem- ple of Neptune was hypsethral, or com- structed with a cella open to the sky ; not a single column is wanting, and the entablature and pediments are nearly entire. The building consists of two peristyles, separated by a wall ; the outer peristyle has 6 columns in each front, and 12 in each flank exclusive of those at the angles ; upon these 36 columns rest an architrave and frieze. The stylobate is a parallelogram of 3 steps ; 5 other steps gave access to the cella, the floor of which is nearly 5 feet above the level of that of the peri- styles. Part of the wall of the pro- naos, in which the staircase was in- serted, is still traceable in the S.E, angle of the cella, which was separated into three divisions by stories of smaller columns divided by a simple archi- trave ; all the columns of the lower file, 14 on each side, still remain, and 7 of the upper — 4 on the S. and 3 on the N. side. The stone of which the temple is constructed is Travertine, a calcareous deposit, which forms the sur- face of the plain : it is similar to the stone so generally used at Rome in the Coliseum, St. Peter’s, &c., and is full of petrified reeds and other aquatic plants. Prom the appearance of several columns, the entire edifice was covered with stucco, and painted, by which the cavities of the stone were concealed. The Basilica , nearer to the S. gate and to the Silarus. (Length of upper step of stylobate, 179 ft. 9 in. ; breadth, 80 ft. ; height of columns, including capitals, 21 ft. ; diameter at base, 4 ft. 9 in, ; number of flutings, 20.) — The second temple in point of size and im- portance is generally called the Basilica, although it by no means corresponds with the usual construction of such an edifice. It is pseudo-dipteral (wanting the interior range of columns), and differs from every other building known, by having 9 columns in each front. Mr. Wilkins considers that this building is coeval with the Temple of Ceres ; and that both exhibit a departure from the simple style of ancient architecture. The temple has a peristyle of 50 columns, having 9 in the fronts, and 16 in the flanks. The interior is divided into two parts by a range of columns parallel to the sides, of which only 3 remain ; the first of these is supported by 2 steps, which have been considered conclusive evidence of the existence of a cella. Of EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — P.ESTUM. 271 the entablature, the architrave alone remains, with some small fragments of the frieze; the pediments have alto- gether disappeared. Among the pecu- liarities of this edifice it may be men- tioned that the shafts of the columns diminish from base to top in a curve ; the capitals differ from those of any known temple, both in the form of the ovolo and the necking below it ; the lower part of the ovolo is generally ornamented with sculpture, and the antoe of the pronaos diminish like the columns, and have a singular project- ing capital. The existence of a cella, and the division of the building into two parts, are regarded as satisfactory proofs that this edifice was neither a basilica nor an atrium, but a temple, dedicated probably to two divinities. This edifice is also built of travertin. Temjple of Vesta , sometimes called the Temple of Ceres (Length of the upper step of stylobate, 107 ft. 10 in. ; breadth, 47 ft. 7 in. ; height of columns, including capitals, 20 ft. 4 in. ; diameter at base, 4 ft. 2 in. ; number of flutings, 20 ; number of flutings in columns of pronaos, 24 ; supposed width of cella, 25 ft.). — This is the smallest temple, and the nearest to the Salerno gate. It is hexastyle peripteral $ the peristyle is composed of 34 columns, of which 6 are in the fronts and 11 in the flanks, exclusive of the angles. Of the enta- blature, the architrave alone is entire ; the W. pediment remains, and part of the E., with a fragment of the frieze. Within the peristyle it seems to have contained an open vestibule, a cella, and a sanctuary. The shafts of the columns of the peristyle diminish in a straight line ; the intervals are little more than a diameter; the mouldings of the upper part, and the triglyphs, with one exception in the centre of the E. front, have all disappeared in con- sequence of the scaling of the sandstone of which they are built. The columns of the vestibule differ from those of the peristyle in the number of their flut- ings, and by having circular bases ; but nothing remains of them beyond the bases of 4, and a small portion of the shafts. The walls of the cella are de- stroyed. “ Approaching these temples from the solitary beach,” says the author of 1 Notes on Naples,’ “ their huge dusky masses standing alone . amidst their mountain wilderness, without a vestige nigh of any power that could have reared them, they look absolutely super- natural. Their grandeur, their gloom, their majesty — there is nothing like the scene on the wide earth. . . . And thus are preserved, for transmission to after generations, relics of the art and refine- ment and civilisation of bygone times, as sublime as Homer’s verse : and fitly they stand amidst Homeric scenes. The Tyrrhene waters wash their classic shores, and, blue and misty through the morning haze, lies the Syren isle of Leucosia off the Posidian point. Mi- nerva’s foreland is athwart the sea; and, if Oscan tales are sooth, the Tro- jan hero landed here at the Posidonian port.” The Amphitheatre , Sfc. — Between the Temples of Neptune and Yesta, there are traces of three buildings : the eastern was an Amphitheatre, as its form indicates ; the second is a pile of ruins, with a broken entablature, capi- tals, and pilasters, supposed to be the remains of a Circus or Theatre. A little W. of the Amphitheatre, marked by the inequality of the ground, are the ruins of another edifice, discovered in 1830, and supposed to be those of a Roman building, to which the name of Temple of Peace has been given. Paestum was celebrated by the Latin poets for the beauty and fragrance of its roses, which flowered twice in the year: — Atque equidem, extremo ni jam sub fine la- borum Vela traham, et terris festinem advertere proram ; Forsitan et pingues hortos quas cura colendi Ornaret, canerem, biferique rosaria Paesti. Virgil. Georg, iv. 116. Leucosiamque petit, tepidique rosaria Paesti. Ovid. Metam. xv. Vos. Propertius mentions them in a beautiful passage, as an instance of mortality : — 272 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. LUCANIAN COAST. Vidi ego odorati victura rosaria Piesti Sub matutino cocta jacere noto. JEleg. iv. 5, 59. Ausonius records their freshness at sun- rise from personal observation : — Vidi Psestano gaudere rosaria cultu Exoriente novo roscida Lucifero. Idyll, xiv. These roses have disappeared ; though a few plants may be found near the ruins of the temples, flowering regularly in May, which Mr. Hogg states agree best with the Rosa Rorreri. (Linn. Tr. vol. xii.) The violets of Psestum were also as celebrated as its roses. Martial commemorates them in the same pas- sage with the honey of Hybla : — Audet facundo qui carmina mittere Nervse, Pallia donavit glaucirxa Cosme tibi. Pagstano violas, et cana ligustra colono, Hyblajis apibus Corsica mella dabit. Epigr. Lib. ix. 21. The acanthus grows luxuriantly with- in the precincts of the temples and around them. It has been frequently stated that the ruins of Psestum remained unknown until late in the last cent. The ab- surdity of such a story may be esti- mated by the fact that the town of Capaccio, where the bishop and his clergy resided, looks down upon the Temples ; and that the only road afford- ing a communication between Salerno and the town of Vallo and the district of the Client o, always passed by Psestum and close to the ruins. The spot where Mr. Hunt and his wife were murdered in 1824 is on the road to Eboli. They had slept at that town, and his servant had placed on a table near the window the contents of a dressing-case, which were mounted in silver, and Mrs. Hunt’s jewels. A girl belonging to the inn saw them, and spread the report that an Englishman, carrying with him enormous treasures, was going to Psestum, upon which 18 men set out from Eboli, to intercept the spoil. Mr. and Mrs. Hunt, after visiting the Temples, were returning in an open caleehe, when they were stopped about 3 m. from Psestum. Mr. Hunt at first showed some resistance, but his wife having implored of him to sur- render at once, he stooped to take the dressing-case lying at the bottom of the carriage. One of the brigands, who was at the window of the carriage, fancying that Mr. Hunt was going to seize the pistols, instantly fired; the ball mortally wounded Mr. Hunt and his wife. Another of the brigands ex- claimed, “What have you done?” and the murderer coolly answered, “ Cio cK e fatto e fatto .” These facts were brought out by the judicial investiga- tion, the result of which was that 17 out of the 18 robbers were identified by a shepherd boy, who witnessed the whole affair while concealed in a thicket. These men were executed, and the 18th confessed on his death-bed. Hear the Portus Alburnus , at the mouth of the Silarus, was the celebrated Temple erected in honour of Juno Ar- giva, by Jason and the Argonauts : its situation is placed by Strabo on the 1. bank of the river, and on the rt. by Pliny ; the best topographers coincide in the position assigned to it by Strabo. THE LUCANIAN COAST. Travellers desirous of extending their researches further S., along the shores of ancient Lucania, will find a new road, connecting Salerno with Vallo, which will enable them to prolong their journey from Psestum. This road leaves Psestum, and pro- ceeds inland to the village of Frig nano. Beyond it is Torchiara, where a horse- path diverges from the main road to Agropoli , a fishing town picturesquely situated in one of the last inlets of the Gulf of Salerno. It was the retreat of the Saracens after they were defeated at the Garigliano. S. of it, beyond Castellabate (4200 Inhab.),is the Punta di Incosa , the S. promontory of the Gulf of Salerno, the Promontorium Posidium of the ancients, on which the Homans had several villas. The island EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. LUCANIAN COAST. 273 off this point still retains in the name of Licosa its ancient name, Leucosia , so called from one of the Syrens. The country between Prignano and Vallo is thickly interspersed with villages, and clothed with oak and chestnut-trees. The road, after leaving Torchiara, passes through the small village of Rolino, and crosses the Alento, the ancient Heles , called a nobilis amnis by Cicero ; it follows its 1. bank for a short distance, and passes below the village of Sala di Gioi. Near this is the Monte della Stella , supposed to mark the site of Petilia , the capital of Lucania : on the summit several ruins are still visible. Yallo, about 20 m. from Peestum, the capital of a district, is an agri- cultural town of 8000 Inhab. ; it con- tains little to interest the traveller except its scenery, and the places of classical interest in the neighbourhood. About 2 m. from the mouth of the Alento, and 8 m. from Yallo, is a lofty insulated hill, called Castellammare della Bruca , sup- posed to mark the site of Yelia, a colony founded by the Phocseans after their evacuation of Cor- sica (b.c. 540). It was famous for the Eleatic school of philosophy, founded by Zeno the disciple of Parmenides. After it became a Roman colony, Paulus iEmilius was ordered there by his phy- sicians, and derived great benefit from the air. Cicero frequently resided in it with his friends Trabatius and Talna ; and Horace tells his friend Numenius Yala, that he was recommended by his physician to visit it or Salerno for a disorder in his eyes : — Quae sit hyems Veliaa, quod coelum, Yala, Salerni, Quorum hominum regio, et qualis via; nam mihi Baias Musa supervacuas Antonius. Epist. 1. xv. On the summit of the hill are ex- tensive remains of walls, built of poly- gonal masses of stone at the base, and covered with more recent superstruc- tures of brick : many of the bricks bear Greek characters. About 15 m. fur- ther down the coast is the promontory which still retains, as the Punta di Palinuro , the name of the pilot of JEneas, which the Cumsean Sibyl pro- mised that it should eternally preserve. A ruin between Pisciotta and the pro- montory still bears the name of the Sepolcro di Palinuro : — Et statuent tumulum, et tumulo solemnia mittent : iEternumque locus Palinuri nomen habebit. jEn. vi. 380. The rivers Molpa and Mingardo fal^ into the sea on the E. side of this pro- montory. Not far from the Molpa, the Melfes of Pliny, are some ruins which are supposed to mark the site of a city founded by the Roman emigrants be- fore they removed to Amalfi (page 251) . Near it is a cavern called La G-rotta delle Osse, from the number of bones which it contains, and which Antonini, in his work on Lucania, regards as those of the seamen of the Roman fleet wrecked here on its return from Africa during the consulate of Cnseus Ser- vilius Csspio and Sempronius Blsesus, b.c. 254, a disaster which compelled Rome to renounce for a time the sove- reignty of the seas. Recent researches have shown that these bones belong chiefly to ruminating animals. Beyond the Mingardo is the vil- lage of Camerota, and 10 m. E. of it the town of Policastro, which gives the name to the Gulf. It has never recovered the sack it sustained from Barbarossa in 1544. It is supposed to stand upon the site of the ancient Pyxus or Buxentum , a colony from Rhegium, whose name is preserved by the Basento, a river that flows into the sea j- m. W. of Policastro. 8 m. S.E. of the latter town is Sapri, where several ruins and vestiges of a port are supposed to mark the site of the Scidrus of Herodotus, where the Sybarites set- tled after the destruction of their city. From Sapri a path of 12 m. falls into the high road to Calabria, near Lago- negro (Rte. 155). N 3 274 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.— SARN A— PALMA — NOLA. III. SARNO, PALMA, NOLA. A branch of the Caserta Ely., start* ing from the Cancello Stat., leads direct to Nola, which can therefore be easily visited from Naples. But the traveller who spends the summer at Castellam- 1 mare or at Sorrento, by following a dif- ferent rte., may visit at the same time Sarno and Palma. Prom Scafati or from Pagani, to either of which he may go by rly., a road traverses the plain to Sarno through the village of S. Valen- tino, whose ch., with its clustered cu- polas, resembles a Turkish mosque. In 1853 a Roman villa of considerable extent was discovered between Scafati and Sarno, at a depth of only 3 or 4 ft. below the surface of the soil. 7 m. Sarno (from Scafati), a fine but rather unhealthy town, with 14,700 Inhab., is crowned by the picturesque ruin of its mediaeval castle, once the principal stronghold of its Count Fran- cesco Coppola, during the conspiracy of the barons against Ferdinand of Aragon, and now a favourite subject for the pencil of the artist. It takes its name from the river Sarno, which gushes from the rock on the N. of the town in a clear and abundant stream. Here Walter de Brienne, the son-in-law of Tancred, died a prisoner in 1205, from the wounds received in his expedition against Frederick II. Between Sarno and Palma are the remains of theRoman aqueduct which supplied Naples and Misenum with the waters of the Sabbato (page 77). 4 m. Palma , prettily situated on a hill opposite to Ottaiano, on the lower slopes of the hills that encircle Vesu- vius. There is a large feudal mansion belonging to the King of Naples, situated at the foot of a wooded hill, on which are the ruins of an extensive castle. Theroute from Torre dell’ Annunziata through the village of Poggiomarino, though shorter than the former, is less agreeable, in consequence of the deep sand which covers the plain of this side of Vesuvius; it joins the former road at Palma, about 10 m. from Torre. 4 m, Nola, an episcopal city, of 12,500 Inhab., in the plain, still re- tains the name and site of one of the most ancient cities of Campania, famous for the resistance offered by its fortress to Hannibal after thebattle of Cannse : — . . Poeno non per via Nola. Sil. It. viii. 536. It was the place where Augustus died, A.i>. 14. This event took place, ac- cording to Tacitus, in the same house and chamber in which his father Octa- vius had expired. Nola has supplied the museums of Europe with one of the most valuable classes of Fictile Vases of the Archaic period. These vases, known by the name of Nolano- Egyptian, and of which there are three .magnificent examples in the Museo Borbonico, resemble those of Corinth in their general character, and are sup- posed to have been introduced by the Corinthian potters, Eucheir and Eu- grammos, who were brought into Italy by Demaratus about 600 years B.C. The material of the Nolan vases is a pale yellow clay ; the figures are in maroon, some of the accessories are marked with a crimson pigment, the inner markings and details being fre- quently picked out with the point of a graver. Nola has also enriched the cabinets of numismatists with an immense quantity of coins, most of which bear the epigraph NfiAAlON, a sufficient proof that the city was founded by a Greek colony. The inte- resting inscription in the Oscan lan- guage, known as the Cippus Abell anus, which was found near Atella, is pre- served in the Museum of the Seminary at Nola. In the 5th centy. Nola became celebrated for the introduction of church bells, which are said by Polydore Virgil and others to have been invented by Paulinus, bishop of the city. From this circumstance the church bell is supposed to have been called Campana in low La- tinity, a name derived from the province EXCURSION'S FROM NAPLES. DISTRICT WEST OF NAPLES. 275 of Campania, in which the city is situ- ated. Nola was the birthplace of Gior- dano Bruno , the Domenican philo- sopher, who fled to England after he had become dissatisfied with his own church, and afterwards to Helmstadt, where he was protected by the Duke of Brunswick. On his return to Italy he was arrested at Padua, and burnt at the stake at Borne, in 1600, on the ! charge of heresy and atheism. Two of ! his works, including his very rare Satire on Mythology, entitled Spacdo della j Bestia Trionfante , were dedicated to ! Sir Philip Sidney. Merliano , the j sculptor, better known as Giovanni da i Nola , was also born at Nola in 1478. Erom Nola a very agreeable excursion can be made to Avellino (see p. 332), and from the latter to Salerno, through a picturesque country, the latter a jour- ney of 3 hrs. The District West of Naples. I. pozztjoli, balp:, misentjm, ctjma:, li- TERHTJM, PHLEGPLEAlNr FIELDS, AS- TRONI, LAKE OF AGKKAHO, ETC. The volcanic region which lies be- tween the Gulf of Naples and the Bay of Gaeta, bounded on the E. by the promontory of Posilipo, is the “hal- lowed ground 55 of classical Italy. There is scarcely a spot in the whole district which is not identified with the poetical mythology of Greece, or asso- ciated with some name familiar in the history of Borne. In every part of the district, as in that which surrounds Yesuvius, some of the local antiquaries, especially Mar- torelli and Mazzocclii, see a permanent record of the Phoenician colonisation of these coasts, in the names of the cities, the lakes, the hills, the head- lands, and the islands which lie beyond them ; names which commemorate some local peculiarity. Thus, Puteoli is con- I sidered to be derived from the Syriac j '71DS Betuli , “ contention ” (rendered [ by the term “ wrestlings ” in the 8th verse of the 30th chapter of Genesis) ; confirming the statement of Strabo that j the fertility of the soil caused frequent struggles for its possession. Avemus is derived from jlliy Evoron, “ blind- ness, or darkness.” Lucrinus, from Vph Lelceren , “ at the hom,” or port, a term which explains the expression aepas ’Q.Ktavo'Lo, applied to it by Hesiod. Phlegra, and Phlegrseus, from Pllj BJiele Geroh , “wonderful strife,” a name appropriate to a tract which was the scene of the wars of the giants and the gods, which Polybius and Strabo have recorded as one of the ancient traditions of the country. Cumse, from PlDlp Eomoh , “ an elevated place •” a word constantly used in the Scriptures in the same sense. Baise, from PI ‘'ll Boiah or Bo-Jah , a compound word, signifying, j literally, “ in it, God,” or the “ seat of I deity.” Bauli, from ‘pjttl Boal, “ the I height.” Misenum, from Meshen , ! a “ pointed rock,” Elysium, from D/J? | Eles , “joy,” or “rejoicing.” Acheron, from lily Achor , “ trouble,” a word which occurs in the same sense in the 7th chapter of Joshua. Litemum, from ruin'? Liternoh , “wildfowl,” for which i the neighbouring woods were so famous that the Bomans called them the Sylva Gallinaria. Prochyta, from HPlll Be- I rochoth , “ eruptions.” Pithecusa, from Pin! Bethah- aislt , “ open fire.” , Epomeus, from □!!! Epechom , “burn- ing coal.” Typhseus, from i"l!Xn Ty- \ ophe , “ what is baked by fire ” Arimos, the iv ’A piyoLs of Homer, from which Yirgil derived his Inarime , from D'H Airim, “ breaking forth.” Yesuvius, from I'llfcy 11 Vo Seveev, the place of flame ; or, more literally, “ in it, flame.” Herculaneum, from Kvp HI PI Eoroh Ealie , “ pregnant with fire.” Pompeii, from PPS D-1S Bum Beeah, “the mouth of a burning furnace.” Summanus, one of the surnames of Jupiter, perpetuated by the present Monte Somma, from fDSy Somman, “ the obscure,” or “ the 276 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. DISTRICT WEST OF NAPLES. shady.” Stabise, from Seteph or Sheteph, “the overflow,” or the “inun- dated.” Surrentum, from DVI3"'V£^ Shyr Nehym , or “ the Song of La- mentation,” in allusion to the plaintive song which the early poets assigned to the three daughters of the Achelous. Capri, from EPIIDD Cephorim , or “ the villages,” a record of the two villages mentioned by Strabo as having existed in times anterior to his own. The priesthood of the earliest Greek colonists took advantage of the mys- terious terrors inspired by the volcanic phenomena, to engraft upon them the popular features of their mythology. Nothing was so calculated to excite the imagination of a poetical people as the craters of the Phlegrsean Fields. It was natural that the priests of Cumae should invest them with a superstitious character, and that the poets should borrow their imagery from them. Re- garding the subject in this light, we may recognise the sources of many of the fables enshrined in the poetry of Greece and Rome. The priests of Avernus, pronouncing their oracles from the caves and secret passages of the woods which clothed its banks, became the Cim- merians dwelling among the darkness of a sunless region. The contests of the first colonists for the possession of the soil, amidst the constant manifesta- tions of volcanic action, suggested the idea of the giants warring against the gods. The convulsions of Ischia typified the struggles of Typhoeus under the rocks of Inarime ; the lakes, the forests, the caverns, the mephitic vapours, the nocturnal fires, and the subterranean murmurs of the continent supplied, in all their variety, the well-known features of the Grecian Hades. The craters of the district were peculiarly calculated to suggest the minuter features of the Greek Inferno. The fountains of heated water would suggest the idea of the ever burning Phlegethon ; the smouldering fires of the semi-extinct craters would suggest the horrors of Tartarus; the caves and tunnels of the mountains would represent the avenues of Orcus ; while the brighter scenes of natural beauty, made more beautiful by con- trast, would inspire the idea of Elysium. Thus the external features of the country engrafted on historical traditions be- came the source of the most popular fables of antiquity. The Italian antiquaries have endea- voured to define the actual scenes of the demonology of Homer, and to map the progress of iEneas through the mystic regions of the dead. But Homer in all his mythological descriptions left the localities purposely undefined ; and al- though Virgil, blending the creations of his great master with the tradition of the Cumsean Sibyl and other local super- stitions, makes JEneas travel in person through the world of spirits, it is im- possible to suppose that he intended to describe the actual features or topo- graphy of the scene. The localities have retained their ancient names with scarcely any change, and will retain them for ever, associated with the legends of mythology, and the most glorious poetry which ever touched the heart of man. Independently of the charm with which fable and poetry have thus in- vested the district, every bay and pro- montory on the coast is crowded with reminiscences of the greatest names in Roman history. The masters of the world were here content to share the possession of a single acre ; the orators and philosophers sought the luxuries of a residence in scenes which com- bined the beauties of nature with the refinements of aristocratic life ; and the patrician matrons of the empire did not disdain to share in the dissipations of Baise. What reflections are evoked by the mere mention of Hannibal, Scipio, Lucullus, Marius, Sylla, Pompey, Csesar, Brutus, Antony, Augustus, and Agrippa ! What pictures crowd upon the memory by the recollection of Tiberius, Nero, Hadrian, Antoninus Pius ! And if we add to these the names of the men of letters whose memories still linger on the shores of Misenum and Posilipo, we shall have to associate with Homer and with Virgil, the names of Pindar, Cicero, Horace, Lucretius, Livy, the two Plinys, Martial, Seneca, Phsedrus, EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. DISTRICT WEST OF NAPLES. 277 Athenseus, Silius Italicus, and Statins. Last, but dearest to the Christian tra- veller, of all the personal reminiscences we shall mention, is that of the great Apostle of the Gentiles, who finished at Puteoli his long and perilous voyage from Caesarea, accompanied by St. Luke, by Aristarchus of Thessalonica, and by other prisoners whom Agrippa had sent with them to Rome under the care of the centurion J ulius . A t P uteoli, St. Paul was hospitably received by his countrymen belonging to the Tyrian quarter in that city, and remained with them a week before he went onwards to Rome. Carriages . — The hire of a carriage from Naples to the Lake of Fusaro, re- turning by Baise, is 4 piastres. The best plan is, after reaching Bagnoli by either of the Posilipo roads, to drive through Pozzuoli to the Arco Felice, Cumse, and the Lake of Fusaro ; thence descend to Baise, and drive to the Piscina Mirabilis and to Miniscola ; and after taking some refreshment in a small house commanding a fine view of the opposite promontory of Misenum, re- turn to Baise, drive along the Lucrine Lake to the Sibyl’s Cave on Lake Aver- nus, and return along the shore to Pozzuoli, whence, if there is time, the Temple of Serapis and the Solfatara may also be visited. To effect this it will be necessary to start early. If a cicerone be taken from Naples, his fee is 12 carlini. Competent persons may always be obtained at the principal hotels : at Pozzuoli the traveller will be assailed by numerous guides, who are perhaps better acquainted with the principal localities, and who may be hired for 6 or 8 carlini : Antonio del Giudice, No. 1, one of them, is an ac- tive and intelligent guide. The old Roman road from Naples to Puteoli, called the Via Puteolana , or Via Antiniana, proceeded through Antiguano and II Y omero, to the point where the hill is pierced by the Grotta di Posilipo. TV hen it reached that point it descended to Fuorigrotta, and proceeded thence over the Monti Leu- cogei and Monte Olibano to Pozzuoli, where it joined the consular road called the Via Camjpana , a branch of the Domitian Way from Rome to Mise- num. The ancient pavement can still be seen in some places. Between Bagnoli and Pozzuoli there are evidences of the changes in the rela- tive level of the sea and land on the shores of this bay. The ancient cliff, which is of the older stratified volcanic tufa, is now separated from the sea by a low strip of land, composed of sub- marine deposits, containing shells of species which still exist in the Mediter- ranean. This deposit consists of hori- zontal beds of tufa containing imbedded fragments of pumice, obsidian, and trachyte, alternating with beds of sea- rolled fragments and ferruginous sand, containing the marine shells. In these beds are also fragments of mosaic pave- ments, and bones of animals, showing that they have been raised since the Roman times. In some places the sur- face of the deposit is 20 ft. above the present level of the sea; in others it is so low that it is necessary to protect it by a wall, as the sea is now encroaching upon it : indeed, since the construction of the new road, and the cuttings which it rendered necessary, very little of this deposit is to be seen. Mr. Babbage observed the wave-mark in the ancient cliff at the height of 32 ft. above the present sea-level, and found the cliff itself, along the line of that wave-mark, bored by lithodomi, the shells of which are still visible in the perforations they have drilled. The road to Pozzuoli is very interest- ing. Beyond Bagnoli it cuts through the Monte Olibano, the v Opos Bavos or the barren mountain, composed of the trachytic lava ejected by the ancient eruptions of the Solfatara, which recalls the lost city of Alliba, of which so many silver coins have been discovered in the neighbourhood, and the site of which is supposed to have been covered by the eruption of 1198. The lava of Olibano entered the sea with a front not less than a quarter of a mile broad, and upwards of 70 ft. high. It rests upon a thick deposit of scoriae and ashes : the tra- 278 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. chytic lava is extensively quarried here for building stone, giving employment to several hundred convicts. On the sum- mit of the hill may be seen the specus or watercourse of the Julian Aqueduct, which traversed the mountain in its passage from Capodimonte to Misenum. POZZUOLI. Ciceroni . — On entering Pozzuoli, the traveller will be beset by ciceroni and by dealers in antiquities. For years the town has enjoyed the reputation of manufacturing these articles, which are made with considerable skill, and are buried in damp earth to give them the stains of age. The traveller should avoid making any purchases on the spot, however real the objects may ap- pear. Pozzuolt is situated on a point of land formed by the older tufa of the district, on the N, shore of the gulf. The earliest Cumsean colonists called it Puteoli, a name subsequently changed into that of Diccearchia , in testimony, as Festus tells us, of the just principles of its government : quod ea civitas quondam justissime regebatur. About 500 years before the Christian era, this Cumsean colony was augmented by one from Samos. Three centuries later, the Ro- mans made it the emporium of their eastern commerce, and restored the name of Puteoli. In the Second Punic War, the city was fortified by the Consul Fabius, whom the Roman Senate had sent with 6000 men to defend it against Hannibal, which he did with success. After the Social War it became a Roman municipium. Cicero describes it as a little Rome, pusilla Roma , and in one of his epistles to Atticus, calls the neighbouring coast Puteolana et Cu - mana regna. Augustus made it a Roman colony. Nero gave it the title of Puteoli Augusta ; "Vespasian added to this the epithet Flavia, and restored the roads of the district as an acknow- ledgment of the support the city had given him against Capua, which had embraced the cause of Y itellius. Strabo , describes it as being, in his -time, a place of extensive commerce with Alexandria, a statement confirmed by numerous in- scriptions discovered in the town, and relating to the merchants trading with Asia Minor, Syria, and Egypt. Two of these inscriptions are among the j most important historical monuments found in Southern Italy. They are written in Greek capitals on two slabs, and are supposed to date from the j reign of Marcus Aurelius. The first ] is a letter from “the Tyrians dwell- 1 ing in Puteoli” to the senate and people of “ Tyre, the metropolis of Phoenicia.” The second is the senate’s < answer. The letter reminds the senate of the ancient superiority of the Tyrian station, or as we should now say the Tyrian Factory at Puteoli, to the other stations in the city, both in magnificence and magnitude. It represents the dimi- nished number of its members, the tax imposed by the Roman government for permission to reside, the necessary expense of maintaining the sacrifices and worship of the paternal deities in the Temples, the cessation of fees from navigators and merchants, the neglect j of the station at Rome to contribute its share to the cost of the Puteoli esta- blishment, and the heavy tax recently laid upon it by the city in requiring the station to defray the expenses of the games of the Buthysia. The answer of the senate requires the Roman station I to pay the accustomed contribution. A fact which may be gathered from this \ Tyrian correspondence is that the Phoe- j nicians had only two stations in Italy, one at Puteoli and one at Rome. St. Luke, therefore, in his narrative of St. Paul’s voyage, could truly say that they found “ brethren” in both cities. During the period of the Roman rule the city was frequented by the patricians of the capital on account of its mineral waters. The existing ruins prove that the city must have extended at that period nearly to the Solfatara. This prosperity was arrested by the fall EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. 279 of the Homan Empire. With the loss of its commerce the city rapidly de- clined. In the 5th cent, it was plun- dered by Alaric, Genseric and Totila ; and what they spared was destroyed by earthquakes or submerged by the subsidence of the land. In the 9th cent, the Dukes of Benevento reduced the city once more to ruins ; in the 10th it was seized by the Saracens ; in the 11th, it suffered from the erup- tion of the Solfatara ; in the 15tli it was damaged by the earthquake of 1456 ; in the 16th it was attacked by the Turks. But shortly before this last invasion, a more fatal enemy, the eruption which formed the Monte Nuovo, had desolated the entire dis- trict, and the city, long infected with malaria in the summer season, had been abandoned by the bulk of its inhabitants. From this disaster Poz- zuoli has never recovered. After the terror caused by the upheaval of Monte Nuovo had somewhat subsided, Don Pedro de Toledo, in order to encourage the inhabitants to return to the de- serted site, built the fortified palace now used as the barracks, and em- ployed the pupils of Raphael to deco- rate it with frescoes, in imitation of those which had just been discovered in the tombs of the Yia Consularis. The viceroy also induced his friend, the great Andrea Doria, to occupy a villa in the town. But the results of these efforts were merely temporary, and the unhealthiness of the site, which had so fatally decimated the French army under D’Aubigny and Montpensier, deterred any attempt to revive Pozzuoli as a summer watering-place. At the present time it presents few indications of its ancient prosperity. Although still an episcopal see, and the chief town of a distretto, its pop. is under 12,000. Pozzuoli was the scene of the last debaucheries and miserable death of Sylla. Cicero in his Oration pro Plancio, tells us that, on landing at Puteoli flushed with the success of his Sicilian qusestorship, the idlers at the baths, instead of congratulating him on the brilliancy of his adminis- tration, were so ignorant of his honours that one of them asked him when he had left Home? and what was the news tli ere . Cu i cum resp ondissem , me a pro- vincial decedere; etiam mehercules , «»* quit , ut opinor ex Africa . In the 12th centy. King Roger, and in the 13th Frederick II., resided here for the benefit of the waters. In the 15th centy. the Duke/ de Montpensier, the viceroy of Charles Till., died here after the capitu- lation of Atella, a prisoner on parole to Gonsalvo de Cordova (Oct. 5, 1495) ; and a few years afterwards his son was so overcome with grief at the sight of the tomb of his father, that he fell dead upon the spot. The Cathedral , dedicated to S. Pro- culus, is the Roman Temple erected and dedicated by L. Calpumius to Augustus. The architect, as an inscription records, was L. Cocceius. The building still retains abundant evidence of its origin in its massive masonry of white marble, and in the 6 Corinthian columns built into one of the side walls. The bodies of S. Proculus, and of two other saints, are here preserved, and are the objects of especial veneration. Besides the Duke de Montpensier and his son, Per- golesi , the eminent composer, lies buried within its walls. The Piazza Maggiore contains a con- sular statue, bearing the name of Q. Flavius Mavortius Lollianus ; it was found in 1704, without the head : the present one, although antique, is a re- cent addition. The modern statue re- cords the public services of the Bishop de Leon y Cardenas, viceroy of Sicily under Philip III. The Piazza della Malva is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient quay. In it was found, during Addison’s visit in 1693, the marble pedestal with bas-reliefs of the 14 cities of Asia, now in the Museo Borbonico, where are also the 5 Arabic inscriptions found in the walls of some houses, recording the gratitude of the Saracens for the peaceful home which they enjoyed here in the 11th and 12th cents. The Temple of Jupiter Serapis or Serapeon, reached by a lane on the rt. 280 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. at the W. extremity of the town. Falconi, in his account of the for- mation of Monte Nuovo in 1538, men- tions, among the effects of the erup- tion, the retirement of the sea from the shores of the Bay of Baise, and the appearance of two springs “ in the ruins recently uncovered, the one of hot salt water in front of the house which was the queen’s, the other of cold and tasteless water, on the shore nearer to the mountain.” These ruins are those now known as the Serapeon. Bon Pedro de Toledo, who built a palace after the eruption, on what was probably the site of “the queen’s house,” made no attempt to uncover the ruins, which after his death were forgotten. The site became overgrown with trees and brushwood, so that in the last cent, the building was no longer to be seen. In 1750, when the Toledo Palace was converted into bar- racks, the upper part of three columns were observed projecting above the soil, amidst the bushes which had so long concealed them. Charles III. gave orders that they should be disinterred. The result was the discovery of an edi- fice rich in costly marbles, and filled with such quantities of broken sculp- ture as to suggest the idea that it had been the general depository for the fragments and ruins of all the temples in the city when the heathen edifices were suppressed. This building, which has excited more interest among men of science than any other ruin in Italy, consists of a quadrilateral atrium sur- rounded with chambers, and a circular temple in the centre. The court is 140 ft. long and 122 wide ; the main entrance is in the S.W. side, which is next the sea, by a doorway of a central and 2 lateral passages, forming a sort of vestibule sup- ported by 6 pilasters. The court was surrounded internally by a portico sup- ported by 48 columns, partly of marble and partly granite, beneath which were 32 small chambers, of which 16 were entered from the court, and 16 from the outside, without any apparent commu- nication with the interior. The remains of stairs prove that they had an upper story. The chambers in the angles of the N.E. side, are twice the size of the others ; they have channels in their walls for the passage of water, and are surrounded by marble seats supported by dolphins. When first discovered they were lined with marble. Be- tween the two large chambers the wall of the building is recessed, so as to form a semicircular niche. In front of this was a pronaos of 6 Corinthian co- lumns and 2 pilasters, which appear, from the broken sculpture found near them, to have supported a richly deco- rated frieze, and to have been the lofti- est portion of the edifice. Three of these columns are still erect ; they each are cut out of a single block of cipol- lino, 40 ft. 3 in. high : one of them is cracked nearly in the centre, the other two are entire. The three others lie fallen in fragments on the ground. The court itself was paved with marble. Beneath it, at the depth of 6 ft., a more ancient pave- ment of mosaic has been discovered, with a channel underneath it for carrying off the water of the springs. In the middle of the court was a circular temple, elevated 3 ft. above the floor of the court, and surrounded by a peristyle of 16 Corinthian columns of African marble, which were removed to deco- rate the theatre at the Palace of Ca- serta. Between the pedestals, which still remain, are small cylindrical vases, with spiral flutings, which are supposed to have been used to hold the lustra! waters or the blood of the victims. It was entered by 4 flights of steps, facing the 4 sides of the building ; two of them have bronze rings, for the purpose, it is supposed, of holding the animals used for the sacrifices. The pave- ment inclined towards the centre, where there was a perforated stone for carry- ing off the blood. In this area was found a rectangular altar, with a chan- nel in the side for the same purpose. In front of the large columns of the pronaos were pedestals for statues, and smaller pedestals were placed between the columns of the portico. The build- ing, in all essential points, has an iden- tity of arrangement with the Iseon at EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. 281 Pompeii, and with the Serapeon at Alexandria, as it is described in the Historic/, Hcclesiastica of Bufinus. In two inscriptions found on the pedes- tals in front of the central columns of the pronaos, and relating to the resto- rations by Marcus Aurelius and Septi- mius Severus, the building is men- tioned as the JEdes of Serapis, a term which occurs also in the Iseon at Pom- peii. Other inscriptions were seen by Martorelli and Paolini on the pilasters at the entrance, with the words Dusari sacrum, Dusaris being the Phoenician Bacchus, the Osiris or Serapis of the Egyptians. In the semicircular niche was found the statue of Serapis now in the Museum. The Greek inscrip- tions in which the Tyrian merchants refer to the expense of maintaining their “ paternal worship in the Tem- ples,” supply authentic evidence that the worship of the Egyptian divinity existed here as late as the 2nd centy. In spite of these facts, and of the ex- istence of the Iseon at Pompeii, some antiquaries have questioned whether the Egyptian worship was tolerated at this period, and have argued, from the channels for conveying water, that the building was a mere establishment of Baths, forgetting the statements of Apuleius and Arnobius, that water was as necessary as fire in the service of the Egyptian temples. The Physical Changes of which the ruin presents so remarkable a memo- rial, have been the subject of even more disputes than the architectural charac- ter of the edifice. The three cipollino columns of the pronaos of the cella present a history of these changes in characters which every one may read, and which no controversy can alter. This history comprises two distinct epochs, one of subsidence and submer- sion beneath the water of the sea, the other of elevation above its level. The lower portion of the columns, for about 12 ft. above the pedestals, has a smooth surface, but exhibiting at different heights distinct traces of ancient water marks. Above this portion, the co- | lumns for about 9 ft. are perforated with holes, drilled deep into their sub- stance by the lithodomus (the modiola lithophaga of Lamarck), a species of boring bivalve shell still existing in the neighbouring sea. The upper half of the columns is uninjured, except by exposure to the weather and by the action of the waves. These appear- ances were at first attributed to an ele- vation of the sea above its present level, an hypothesis now known to be untenable, since all the changes on the shores of the Gulf of Naples have been proved to be local. There is no doubt that the coast of the Bay of Baise has undergone alternate changes of subsi- dence and elevation from the date of the foundation of this building. When the mosaic pavement we have men- tioned as existing 6 ft. beneath the present floor of the court was first formed, it is obvious, that it must have been some feet above the level of the sea, a fact of which the existence of a channel beneath it for carrying off the water of the springs is an evidence. A subsidence must then have taken place, which rendered it necessary to lay down the existing pavement at a higher level. The inscriptions we have no- ticed prove that the building was in use in the reign of Septimius Severus. In less than 100 years after the death of this emperor, the heathen temples were suppressed on the conversion of Constantine, and there is little doubt that it was then entirely abandoned. After this event, the subsidence must have continued by successive move- ments until the lower part of the co- lumns was submerged, for the water marks belong evidently to different levels. In the 12th cent, the eruption of the Solfatara appears to have filled the court to the height of 12 ft. with scoriae and other ejected matter, which, as the ground sunk lower beneath the sea, preserved that portion of the co- lumns from the action of the lithodomi. The subsidence continued until the columns were submerged to the height of 9 ft. above this volcanic deposit, and in that state they must have remained exposed to the action of the sea- water 282 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. for nearly three centuries and a half, while the upper half of the columns projected above the water. This is proved by the immense number, the large size, and the depth of the perfo- rations bored by the lithodomi, the shells of which are still to be found at the bottom of many of the cavities, to- gether with others of existing species ( chiefly a species of area ), which have con- cealed themselves in the same hollows. The Canonico Jorio has shown, by the evidence of municipal charters, that an elevation had commenced on the shores of Pozzuoli early in the 16th cent. This change appears to have been local, for Ferrante Loffredo, in his “ Anti- chita di Pozzuolo,” published in 1580, asserts that in 1530 a person could fish from the site now called the Circus or Stadium. From this statement, as Professor Forbes has shown, we may infer that, immediately before the ap- pearance of Monte Nuovo, the sea washed the ancient cliffs which are now inland, on both sides of Pozzuoli, from the Punta di Coroglio to the Lucrine Lake. We may therefore assign the date of the elevation which upheaved this building and the low tract of sub- marine deposit on the west of Pozzuoli, called La Starza, to the earthquakes which preceded and accompanied the formation of Monte Nuovo in 1538. From the middle of the last cent., or at least from 1780, the building has been again slowly sinking. Niccolini, in his “ Bapporto,” states that in 1807, the pavement was perfectly dry in calm weather, and was never overflowed ex- cept during the prevalence of a strong gale from the south; in 1822 it was covered twice a- day by the slight tides which exist in the Grulf of Naples ; in 1838 the depth of water at high tide had increased 4 inches ; on the 9th of April 1858, at high-water mark, and with scarcely a ripple on the surface of the sea without, it rose to the height of 23 inches. From these observations, carefully made during a period of 16 years, he calculated that the ground was sinking at the rate of about a quarter of an inch annually. At the present time the floor is always covered with sea-water, which is affecting the sources of the mineral springs. On the whole, therefore, there is little doubt that the ground has sunk upwards of 2 ft. during the last half cent. This gradual subsidence confirms Mr. Bab- bage’s conclusions — drawn from the calcareous incrustations formed by the hot springs on the walls of the build- ing, and from the ancient lines of the water-level at the base of the three columns, — that the original subsidence was not sudden, but slow and by suc- cessive movements. Sir Charles Lyell considers that when the mosaic pave- ment was constructed, the floor of the building must have stood about 12 ft. above the level of 1838 (or about 11^ ft. above the level of the sea), and that it had sunk about 19 ft. below that level before it was elevated by the eruption of Monte Nuovo. The Mineral Waters , which we have mentioned, are sup- posed to have their sources in the Sol- fatara. They are three in number ; one of them is hot, the others cold. The hot spring is called the Acqua delV Antro , because it issues from a small cavern. It is a bright, clear, and co- pious stream. The temperature is about 106° Fahr,, but it varies slightly with the season. It contains carbonates of soda, lime, magnesia, and iron, sul- phates of soda and lime, and muriates of soda, lime, magnesia, and alumina; carbonate of soda is in excess. It is in great repute, both for internal and exter- nal maladies. Internally it is used with advantage in dyspepsia, gout, and vis- ceral obstructions ; externally, in rheu- matic affections, scrofula, and diseases of the skin. The cold springs, called the Acqua de' Lipposi , and the Acqua Media , contain very nearly the same materials as the Acqua delV Antro , with carbonic acid gas ; but in. consequence of their low temperature, they are not so much used. The Acqua de ’ Lipposi is used in affections of the eyes. The Acqua Media has some analogy with that of Seltzer. The Mole of Pozzuoli, called by Seneca Piles , and by Suetonius Moles Puteolance, EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. 283 is an interesting example of a pier built on what was called the Greek principle, — a series of piles of massive masonry, connected by arches which sufficed to break the force of the waves, Avhile they prevented the accumulation of sand in- side. It is supposed that there were ori- ginally 25 piles, sustaining 24 arches, with a lighthouse at the extremity. Only 13 piles are now above water ; 3 others are visible beneath the sur- face. They are built of brick faced with stone, and are firmly held together by a cement partly composed of volcanic sand, extolled by Vitruvius and by Strabo for its power of hardening under water, and known under the” modern name of pozzolana . The date of the construc- tion of this mole is not known, but it was certainly anterior to the 2nd cent., as an inscription fished up from the sea in 1575, and preserved over the city gate, records its restoration by Antoni- nus Pius, in accordance with a promise made by Hadrian — Opus pilarum vi maris conlapsum a divo yatre suo pro- missum Antoninus restituit. This mole has been frequently called the Bridge of Caligula, a structure which the his- torians describe as a bridge of boats, attached, as Suetonius expresses it, ad Puteolanas Moles , for the purpose of forming a continuation of the Via Puteolana across the bay to Baiae, or as Dion Cassius asserts, to Bauli. To construct this bridge Caligula seized every vessel he could find in all the ports of Italy, so that the peninsula was thereby reduced to a slate of famine for want of ships to import corn for the sustenance of the people. Suetonius describes the drunken orgies, the cruelty, and the pomp with which the bridge was inaugurated : — the ludi- crous processions in which Caligula traversed it, one day on horseback, wearing the cuirass of Alexander, and the next day in a biga, bearing before him the young Darius, whom the Par- thians had placed in his power as a hostage ; — the shops and taverns which were erected at intervals on the bridge for the entertainment of the passengers, and the illuminations on the hills at night, which lit up the whole gulf as in open day. In spite, however, of this display, the bridge appears to have been a temporary structure, wdiich pro- bably did not survive the tyrant who constructed it. The piles of the Mole exhibit also alternations of subsidence beneath the level of the sea and of subse- quent elevation above it. The springing of some of the arches is still under water, and yet, as Mr. Babbage pointed out, the last pile- but one towards the shore is covered with barnacles and perforated by lithodomi at the height of 10 ft. above the present level of the sea ; while similar perforations are visible on the sixth pile at less than 4 ft. above it. Temple of Neptune, — a mass of build- ing on the shore W. of the Serapeon, now under water, with the upper por- tions of the columns just visible at the surface. If the name be correctly given to this ruin, it was the Temple in which Augustus sacrificed B.C. 31, before he sailed on the expedition to Greece, which ended in the battle of Actium ; it was also the building under whose portico Cicero’s friend, Avianus, was accustomed to promenade. 0 prce- clarum prospectum ! Puteolos videmus : at familiarem nostrum Avianum, for- tasse in porticu Neptuni ambulantem non videmus. — Cic. Lucullus , Acad. 2. Temple of the Nymphs , — another building under water, but the name is conjectural. Several columns of gra- nite, giallo antico, and other marbles, statues, lustra! vases, and other sculp- tured remains, have been recovered from the ruins. Near this is the sup- posed site of the Temple of Juno Pro- nuba. The Temple of the Nymphs is described by Philostratus as the scene of the interview between Apollonius Thyaneus and his pupil Demetrius, .the Cynic philosopher. Villa of Cicero. — At a short distance beyond the Temple of the Nymphs, on the seashore, are the ruins which there are good reasons for regarding as those of Cicero’s Villa Puteolana. The po- sition corresponds perfectly with the description of Pliny and with the fre- quent indications which Cicero himself 284 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. lias given of it in liis Letters to Atticus. Pliny tells us that the villa was situ- ated on the sea shore between Puteoli and Avernus, that it was admired for its portico and its woods, that Cicero called it the Academy, after the example of that at Athens, and wrote the Aca- demical and the De Fato within its walls. He says that at Cicero’s death it became the property of Antistius Vetus, and that shortly afterwards a warm spring burst forth in the base- ment of the building, the waters of which possessed extraordinary virtues in diseases of the eye. Cicero in seve- ral of his letters speaks with delight of his two villas, the Cumsean situated on the hills, and the Puteolan with its promenade along the shore. In one of his letters to Atticus, he says the amenity of both is such that he hesi- tates to choose between them, Fst me- hercule, ut dicis , utriusque loci tanta amoenitas , ut dubitem , utra anteponenda est. In another he says : Perpaucis diebus in Pompeianum : post in hcec Puteolana et Gumana regna renavigaro. O loca cceteroqui valde expetenda , in- terpellantium autem multitudine poene fugienda ! (xiv. 16.) JElius Spartianus tells us that Hadrian, who died at Baise a.d. 188, was buried in Cicero’s Yilla at Puteoli, and that Antoninus erected a temple on the spot. In this temporary sepulchre the body is sup- posed to have remained until the mau- soleum at Rome was ready for its re- ception. The ruins which now remain consist of a few detached masses partly covered by the sea. Paths , — a mass of ruins near the Amphitheatre, of which only enough remains to show that it was square ex- ternally and round internally. It has the appearance of having been the hall of a bath, though it is commonly mis- named the Temple of Diana. Near it, and probably forming part of the same establishment, on a hill overlooking the bay, are some massive walls of reticu- lated brick- work, divided into parallel chambers with niches for statues. This ruin has been sometimes called the Temple of Neptune. Other baths and warm springs have been found in the grounds of the Villa Cardito , which is celebrated for the beauty of its site. The Piscina , commonly called the La- byrinth, situated in the Villa Dusciano, is supposed to have been used either for collecting the rain water from the Amphitheatre, or for holding the water for the Naumachia. The Piscina Grande , with a vaulted roof resting on three rows of pilasters, 10 in each, is of great size and solidity, and is still used as a reservoir. Near it are seen the remains of the branch which diverged to Puteoli from the Julian aqueduct in its passage from JPosilipo to Misenum. The ancient tunnel in the mountain, by which the town derives its present supply of water, was restored by Don Pedro de Toledo. The hills in the neighbourhood are covered with ruins of baths and minor edifices, to which various names have been given, but which it would be an unprofitable task to describe. Temple of Antinous. — In the Villa Licastro some beautiful columns were discovered in 1838, with capitals of elaborate workmanship, and fragments of marble arches. A statue of Anti- nous, found among the ruins, gave them a name. Amphitheatre , situated on the hill behind the town, the most perfect of the existing ruins, though much injured by time and spoliation. It is built on three rows of arches, the first composed of large blocks of masonry, the others of reticulated brickwork. An outer portico surrounded the entire building. There were two principal entrances at the extremities, and two smaller ones at the sides, leading to the arena and the sub- structions. The large entrances were approached by a triple row of arcaded porticos covered with marble. Large broad staircases led to the different floors. Internally the cavea had 4 ranges of seats, divided by flights of stairs into several cunei. The appro- priation of these ranges of seats to the different classes of spectators is sup- posed to have been first introduced in this building, for Suetonius states that EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. POZZUOLI. 285 j it was in consequence of an insult offered to a Roman senator, whose rank was not recognised in the crowd at the Puteolan games, that Augustus pub- lished a law regulating the seats in the theatres. The seat for the emperor has large Corinthian columns of black marble. The arena, filled with earth, had been planted with vines, fig-trees, and pomegranates. The researches begun in 1838, and continued to this day, have cleared it and brought to light subterranean works of vast extent under the arena itself. These sub- structions are lighted by apertures at regular distances along the whole cir- cuit. Connected with them are the dens for the animals, built of the most solid masonry. In the podium or parapet of the arena are several doors communicating by stairs with the sub- terranean chambers. Numerous lamps, fragments of columns, and architec- tural ornaments of considerable taste were discovered during the excavations. The dimensions of the amphitheatre are 480 ft. in the major axis of the ellipse, and 382 in the minor. The length of the arena is 336 ft., the width is 138 ft. The building is therefore larger than that of Pompeii, and smaller than that of Capua, which it resembles in its substructions. In early times it was celebrated for the games of the Buthysia, a sort of bull-fight, which was maintained by a tax levied on the Tyrian merchants. We know from Suetonius, that it was famous for its gladiatorial combats. Nero entertained Tiridates, king of Armenia, with a display of both spectacles within its walls ; and Dion Cassius relates how the emperor astonished the Asiatic monarch by descending himself into the arena, where he killed several wild beasts, and transfixed two bulls with the same javelin. In the reign of Dio- cletian, S. Januarius and his compa- nions are said to have been exposed here, without injury, to the fury of the wild animals, and to have been after- wards imprisoned in the building, be- fore they were removed to the scene of their martyrdom near the Solfatara. Two of the chambers under the arcade are supposed to have been their prison, and have been consecrated as a chapel under the name of the Carceri di S. Genna/ro. Theatre , a ruin covered with trees and vines, and occupying an extensive space. The principal portions now visible are the rows of arches which mark the two stories of the building, some corridors, the entrances below the vaults which sustained the seats, and a portico. Proceeding along the Via Cumana we find an extensive ruin, which has been the subject of much controversy. Some antiquaries called it Cicero’s villa ; whilst others supposed it to mark the site of the Circus , in which the games instituted by Antoninus Pius in honour of Hadrian were celebrated. Now it is generally supposed to be the ancient Stadium. Tombs. — The 3 Roman roads which connected Puteoli with Capua, Naples, and Cumae, are bordered with tombs of interest. The 1st and most im- portant of these roads is the Via Con - sularis or the Via Camp ana, which led direct to Capua, along the valley which lies between Monte Barbaro and As- troni. The 2nd is the Via Puteolana or Antiniana , which led to Naples. The 3rd is the Via Cwnana , a branch of the Via Domitiana , and led to Cu- mae. The tombs on the Via Consularis commence near the ch. of the Nunziata. They are chiefly columbaria, and are remarkable for their interior decora- tions, and for the objects which have been found in them. At present some are externally little more than masses of brickwork ; others are in the form of temples or towers, others are simple columns. One of them, opposite the little ch. of San Yito, is a large rec- tangular chamber, with a semicircular roof supported by two rows of pilasters in stucco, the lowest of which rests upon a horizontal band or moulding about 8 or 9 ft. from the floor. Below this moulding is a row of niches running round the entire chamber ; above it there are three similar rows at the sides, 286 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — POZZUOLI. and four rows at the ends. At the end and at the sides are massive tombs sup- ported by heavy columns at the angles, with a closed arch between them to sustain the mass which formed the superstructure. Over the one at the end is a window formed by a long slit in the thickness of the wall, which is sloped away on the inside like the loop- holes of the archers in a mediaeval for- tress. When first opened in the 15th cent., the interior was decorated with stuccos and paintings of great beauty, representing arabesques, foliage, &c. So great was the interest excited by this discovery that Morto da Feltro , the pupil of Giorgione, made a pilgrimage from Rome to Pozzuoli, as Vasari tells us, for the purpose of copying the re- liefs and grottesche. Another tomb is remarkable as having stairs leading to an upper floor, and vaulted roofs to each; the walls of the lower floor have large recesses, as if intended for the reception of sarcophagi, those of the upper floor have a double row of niches for cinerary urns. Another is a cylindrical tomb, on a square base- ment, and though injured and over- grown with shrubs, it still indicates its general design. Beyond it are nume- rous columbaria, inscribed with the names of the inmates. The inscription on that of Sestia records that it was erected by the people to commemorate her munificence to the colony. In the columbarium of the Lacena family the ashes were found in glass urns, wrapt in cloth of gold, and deposited in small marble chests. Two coins of Antoni- nus and Faustina which were found with them fix the date of the monument at about the middle of the 2nd cent. In the adjoining columbarium the ashes of the liberti were found preserved in marble or glass urns ; those of the slaves were in earthen vessels. The > principal niche of this sepulchre and its spiral columns were richly decorated with mosaics of birds, shells, and plants. Recent excavations along this road have brought to light other interesting tombs, in which many valuable objects, including lamps, lachrymatories, and tazze,of great beauty, have been found. The ancient pavement of the road, still perfect in some places, is composed of massive rectangular blocks of lava, furrowed transversely, and the marks of chariot- wheels are still traceable. It is impos- sible to walk over this road without feelings of deep and solemn interest. It carries us back twenty centuries, con- veying the impression that we are treading the very pavement which was travelled over by the greatest names in Roman history, and by St. Paul and St. Luke. The tombs of the Via Puteolana , which may be examined on our way to the Solfatara, though less numerous, have supplied the Museum at Naples with some very interesting objects. At the spot called La Vigna is the tomb of the Cal'purnia family, in which several sarcophagi were found, with an inscrip- tion recording its erection by the mer- chants trading with Asia, Syria, and Alexandria. On the other side of the road is a pedestal which bore an in- scription recording its erection by the Decurions, at the public expense, to Gavia, a young girl of the Marcian family. Near it is a large sepulchral chamber, richly decorated internally ; the walls are faced with marble, the vaulted roof and floor covered with mosaics of considerable elegance and grace, among which we recognise the ship, the Nereid, and the sea-horse carrying the deceased to the regions of the blessed. Four large sarcophagi, with bas-reliefs of inferior workman- ship, representing the genius of death, the fates, and other divinities, were found in this tomb. Beyond it, a general Cemetery has been discovered, buried under the stream of lava which flowed from the Solfatara in 1198. The ground was filled with cinerary urns, and with skeletons buried in the earth beneath coverings of tiles, — a mode of interment which has suggested the pro- bability that this was a cemetery of the plebeians. With these remains were found vast quantities of personal ornaments in glass and bone, with a collection of lamps more varied in form EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. SOLFATARA. 287 and more richly decorated with bas- reliefs than have ever been discovered in one spot of the same extent. The Cappuccini.—'Be tween Pozzuoli and the Solfatara is the Monastery of the Cappuccini with its ch. erected in 1580 by the Neapolitans to S. Janu- arius, who is said to have suffered mar- tyrdom on the hill of the Solfatara, a.d. 305. The stone on which he is said to have been beheaded, is preserved in the chapel which bears his name. In the garden is the cistern, supported by arches resting on pilasters, to preserve the water from being contaminated by the gases emitted by the soil. The view from the convent over the hills which bound the Gulf of Pozzuoli is very fine. Near the monastery is a tunnel, supposed to have led from Poz- zuoli to the Lake of Agnano. It is now closed. THE SOLFATARA, A semi-extinct volcano, about midway between Pozzuoli and the Lake of Agna- no. It is an oval but irregular plain, surrounded by broken hills of pumiceous tufa, the ancient walls of the crater. In the centre is a mass of trachyte, pro- truding through the stratifiedtufa. Prom the hollow sound which the surface gives out when it is struck, the crater is sup- posed to form a large vaulted chasm below the present floor. From some of the crevices of its rocks it is perpetu- ally exhaling steam and noxious gases. These crevices are known by the name of fuma/roli. The gases are chiefly sulphuretted hydrogen, mixed, as Dr. Daubeny Has ascertained, with a minute portion of muriatic acid and muriate of ammonia. Sulphur, alum, and sul- phate of iron abound in the cracks and apertures of the rocks. At the sug- gestion of Breislak, Baron Brentano in the last cent, established an alum manu- factory, and obtained the necessary water by condensing the steam of the fuma- roli ; but the works have been carried on in too desultory a manner to produce any profitable results. Strabo, who de- scribes the Solfatara under the name of the 'Hcpaiarou’ Ay opa, the Forum Vulcani, mentions, on the authority of Pindar and Timseus, that in ancient times a communication was believed to exist between Ischia and the Phlegrsean Fields ; and it has frequently been observed that when Yesuvius is quiet, the Solfatara gives signs of activity by the emission of unusual volumes of smoke and vapour, and by internal noises. The only eruption from this crater of which we have any record, occurred in 1198. It poured forth the stream of lava which may be traced from the opening in the S.E. side of the crater to the sea, covering in its passage the ancient cemetery on the Yia Puteolana. This lava decomposes into a kind of ochreous earth, which derives its yellow colour from oxide of iron, but becomes red on being burnt, and is then used as a pigment It ap- pears from an inscription found near the crater, that there was a temple to Hercules on some part of the hill ; but as no trace of it exists, it was probably destroyed by the eruption of 1198. Monti Leucogei . — The hills on the E. of the Solfatara retain their ancient name of Colies Leucogcei , derived from the white colour of the rocks at their sur- face, and from certain saline efflores- cences. Pliny says that this powder was highly prized by the Bomans, who used it to give a colour to their alica , a prepara- tion of grain which appears to have cor- responded with our groats. He gives a remarkable proof of its value in the statement that Augustus issued a de- cree ordering the payment of 20,000 sesterces (1601.) annually to the city of Naples for the regular supply of the powder. The Tisciarelli , called by Pliny the Fontes Leucogcei , are aluminous waters of a peculiar character, issuing from the foot of the Monte Sicco, which formed part of the ancient cone of the Solfatara. They gush out of the rock at the base of this hill in a ravine which lies between the Lake of Agnano 288 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. MONTE NUOVO. and the Solfatara, from whose fiery abyss they evidently have their source. On approaching the rock, a noise of boiling water is heard deep-seated within the mountain, as if proceeding from the hollow caverns beneath. The general aspect of the valley bears a strong resemblance to that crater; the soil is hot, and abounds in fumaroles. The water issues at a very high tem- perature, and is appropriately called by the peasantry the Acqua della Bolla. It contains sulphates of alum, of lime, and of iron, sulphureous acid, and sulphu- retted hydrogen gas. Pliny describes it as beneficial in diseases of the eye. In modern times it has obtained a high reputation among the lower orders of Neapolitans as a remedy for diseases of the skin. MONTE NTTOVO. Between Pozzuoli and the Monte Nuovo the coast forms a long and regular curve, in which the traveller will have a good opportunity of ex- amining the recent submarine deposits which separate the ancient line of coast from the sea. This tract, called La Starza , is broader than that on the coast of Bagnoli : it consists of vegetable soil of great fertility, resting on hori- zontal beds of ashes, pumice, lapilli, and argillaceous tufa, containing marine shells and fragments of masonry, and varying in height from 12 to 20 ft. above the level of the sea. Behind this level tract is the ancient cliff, now inland. Monte Nuovo is situated on the coast Itj m. from Pozzuoli. The history of its formation has been recorded by four witnesses of the eruption, Marc- antonio delli Falconi, Pietro Giacomo di Toledo, Simone Porzio, and Fran- cesco di Nero. The accounts of the two former, now among the rarities of Italian literature, may be seen in the library of the British Museum. That of the third is scarce in its separate form under the title of Be Conjlagratione Agri Buteolani , but is included in the general collection of his works. That of the fourth will be found translated in the Quarterly Journal of the Geolo- gical Society. They confirm each other on all the material points of the eruption, with very slight discrepancies in the minuter details. It appears that from 1536 to 1538, the district W. of Naples was convulsed by frequent earthquakes. In September, 1538, they succeeded each other with alarming rapidity; and on the day and night of the 28th of the month, the district was convulsed by upwards of 20 shocks, which elevated the whole coast from Misenum to Coroglio so considerably that the sea is described as having retired to a distance of about 200 paces from the ancient coast-line, leaving large quantities of dead fish upon the strip of land thus upraised above the level of the sea. At the same time the ancient volcanic tufa which forms the fundamental rock of the district, sank down, forming a gulf from which cold, and after- wards hot water issued. This was fol- lowed, on the 29th, by dense volumes of steam, charged with pumiceous ashes and lapilli, which condensed in the atmosphere and fell upon the surround- ing country in showers of black mud, some of which was carried as far as Naples, deluging Pozzuoli as it passed. Early in the morning of the 30th, the character of the eruption suddenly changed. The discharge of heated water and mud ceased ; and the mouth of the new crater ejected with a noise like thunder volleys of masses of ashes and red-hot pumice. Two of the observers state that these stones were “larger than an ox,” and that they were projected to the height of a mile and a half above the orifice, into which most of them fell back . The lighter ashes were thrown out in such quantities that they covered the whole country, and some were carried by the wind as far as parts of Calabria, more than 150 m. distant. The atmosphere was filled with such noxious gases that quantities of birds fell dead upon the ground, and EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. AVERNUS. 289 l Tvcfxoei yauav ipacrcrri Eii/ ’Apijuois, o0i c/jcuxi Tvcficoeos eppevau evvas. II. II. 781. Virgil, adopting Homer’s tradition, gave Typhoeus to Ischia, and Enceladus to JEtna, Durumque cubile Inarime Jovis imperiis imposta Typhoeo. Jin. ix. 715. The ancient name, Pithecusa , was po- pularly derived by the Romans from yrttnzos, because the island was said to be inhabited by monkeys. Inarimem Prochytamque legit, steriliqne loeatas Colie Pithecusas, habitantum nomine, dictas. Ovid. Met. xiv. 89. But Pliny the Naturalist derived it from the pottery (yrlSot) manufactured in the EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — ISCHIA. 311 island. Pithecusa non a simiarum mul- titudine ( ut aliqui existimavere) sed a figlinis doliorum (iii. 12). The name JEnaria, according to Pliny, was given by the poets as the station of the fleet of HCneas. The name Ischia is a cor- ruption of the word Iscla , under which name the island is mentioned in eccle- siastical records of the 8th cent. After the fall of the Roman empire, Ischia followed the fortunes of the capital. In 813, and again in 84V, it was attacked by the Saracens ; in 1135 it was sacked by the Pisans, while on their way to Amalfi. In 1191 Henry VI. took possession of it. In the reign of his son, Frederick II., Caracciolo, his general, allowed himself to he burnt alive in the Castle, rather than surren- der it to the Guelph troops of Otho IV. In 1282, Ischia joined Sicily in the revolt against Charles I. In 1299 Charles II. recovered the island, and punished the inhabitants for their re- bellion by sending 400 soldiers to cut down then’ trees and vineyards. In 1389 Ladislaus defeated Louis II. of Anjou in a battle fought near the crater of Monte Rotaro. In the 15th centy. Alfonso I. seized and fortified it in the war against Joanna II. He expelled the male inhabitants, and forced then* wives and daughters to marry his sol- diers. At his death in 1458, Giovanni Toreglia, the cousin of Lucrezia d’Ala- gni, proclaimed himself an adherent of King Renato, and held the island against Ferdinand I. till 1463, when he sold it to the crown for 50,000 ducats. In 1495 Ferdinand II. retired to Ischia with his aunt Joanna, who had just be- come his bride in her 14th year, aban- doning Naples to his rival Charles VIII. The king arrived before the castle of Ischia, with his retinue in 14 galleys ; but the castellan, Giusto della Cau- dina, a Catalonian, refused to admit him. He consented at last to admit the king and queen alone. Ferdinand then landed, but he had no sooner set his foot within the castle than he drew his sword and killed the faithless cas- tellan on the spot, an act which so astonished the garrison that they of- fered no opposition to the landing of the whole retinue. In 1501 his uncle and successor Frederick retired to Ischia with his queen and children, accompanied by his sisters Beatrice, the widow of Mattheus Corvinus, King of Hungary, and Isabella, the widow of Gian Galeazzo Visconti. They re- mained in the castle till the king pro- ceeded to France, and surrendered him- self to Louis in person, so that the castle of Ischia may be said to have witnessed the extinction of the Ara- gonese dynasty. The island was pil- laged in 1544 by Barbarossa, who car- ried away 4000 inhabitants ; was cap- tured by the Duke de Guise in 1647 ; was occupied by Lord Nelson in the present cent. ; and afforded brief refuge to Murat on his flight to France in 1815. The Marquis of Pescara, the con- queror of Francis I., was born in the castle of Ischia, in 1489. His sister, Costanza, defended the castle during the war which preceded the partition treaty of Granada, and refused to capi- tulate to the forces of Louis XII., al- though commanded to do so by her king, to whom she afterwards afforded a shelter in the same castle, the only spot in the kingdom which her heroism had enabled him to call his own. As an acknowledgment of her services, the government of the island was settled on her family, who retained it till 1734. In 1525 Vittoria Colonna, the widow of the hero of Pavia, retired to Ischia to mourn her loss. Her genius, her virtues, her piety, her beauty are im- mortalised by Michael Angelo, by Car- dinal Bembo, by Ariosto and Annibal Caro. Vittoria b ’1 nome ; e ten conviensi a nata Fra le vittorie, ed a chi, o vada, o stanzi, Di trofei sempre, e di trionfi ornata, La Vittoria abbia seco, o dietro, o innanzi. Questa e un’ altra Artemisia, che lodata Fu di pietk verso il suo M ausolo ; anzi Tanto maggior, quanto b piu assai bell’ opra, Che por sotterra un uom, trarlo di sopra. Orl. xxxvir. 18. In 1548 Mary of Aragon, the widow of the Marchese del Vasto, cousin of the 312 EXCURSIONS FROM great Pescara, followed tlie example of Yittoria, and sought a home in Ischia in the eventide of a life which seemed never to grow old. Her autumn, says Pierre de Brantome, surpassed the spring of the -most beautiful of other women ; and when she had reached her 60th year, her charms were still so irresistible that the grand Prior of France fell in love with her. Bishop Berkeley frequently declared that one of the happiest summers he ever enjoyed was passed in Ischia in 1717 ; and in a letter, written pro- bably to Pope, he says, “The island Inarime is an epitome of the whole earthy containing within the compass of 18 miles a wonderful variety of hills, vales, rugged rocks, fruitful plains, and barren mountains, all thrown to- gether in a most romantic confusion. The air is, in the hottest season, con- stantly refreshed by cool breezes from the sea ; the vales produce excellent wheat and Indian corn, but are mostly covered w r ith vineyards interspersed with fruit-trees. Besides the common kinds, as cherries, apricots, peaches, &c., they produce oranges, limes, almonds, pomegranates, figs, water-melons, and many other fruits unknown to our climates, which lie everywhere open to the passenger. The hills are the greater part covered to the top with vines, some with chesnut groves, and others with thickets of myrtle and lentiscus. . . . But that which crowns the scene is . . . Mons Epomeus. Its lower parts are adorned with vines and other fruits ; the middle affords pas- ture to flocks of goats and sheep ; and the top is a sandy pointed rock, from which you have the finest prospect in the world, surveying at one view, besides several pleasant islands lying at your feet, a tract of Italy about 300 miles in length, from the promontory of Antium to the Cape of Palinurus.” The aloe and the prickly pear {cactus opuntia ) grow luxuriantly in the hedges ; many rare ferns and orchids are found in the woods, the caper grows wild on the walls, and the flora of the island generally will enable the botanist to NAPLES. ISCHIA. add many interesting objects to his herbarium. Mineral Waters. — Ho spot of the same extent contains such a number of hot mineral waters. The island is so rich in springs that many valuable waters which would make the fortune of any town in continental Europe, are here allowed to run to waste. The principal characteristics of the Ischia waters are the large quantities of the muriates, sulphates, and carbo- nates of soda which they contain, com- bined with the salts of magnesia, of lime, and occasionally of potash, and with a considerable volume of car- bonic acid gas. With a few exceptions, they issue from the earth at so high a temperature, that it is necessary to mix them with cold water before they can be used. Besides the waters, there are sand-baths of great power, and hot-air and vapour baths varying in tempera- ture from 140° to 180°. Some of the w r aters now in use were well known to the ancients, as Strabo, Pliny, and other writers describe the qualities for which they are still re- markable ; and several bas-reliefs and inscriptions recording them have been found in the island. The first descrip- tion of the Ischia waters and them medicinal powers was published by Griulio Jasolino, in 1588. This curi- ous work describes nearly 40 springs, including all the principal ones now r in use. The works of Siano and D’ Aloysio, and the poetical descriptions of De Quintiis {Inarime, sive de bal- neis Pithecusarum) , were contributions to the literature of the Baths in the last cent. Professor Lancellotti, in our own time, gave the first scientific ana- j lysis of the waters, in the reports which j he drew up for the Naples Academy of Sciences. In 1830 Mr. de Bivaz, a Swiss physician resident at Naples, published a Description of the Waters, j in which he incorporated Lancellotti’ s analyses with the results of his own experience. Our countryman the late j Dr. Cox, in his work on the medical topo- graphy of Naples, 1841, also contri- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. CASAAIICCIOLA. 313 buted to bring tbe Ischia waters under the notice of English travellers. He combined in his work the labours of his predecessors with his own observations diming his long practice at Naples, and showed the analogies of the several waters to the more familiar springs of Northern Europe. Such powerful agents as the waters of Ischia require much discrimination in their use, and should not be used without competent advice. We shall proceed to make a circuit of the island from Casamiccioxa, a picturesque village of 3500 Inhab., on the high ground be- hind Lacco, is near the most important springs. They rise in the Valle Om- brasco , a beautiful ravine at the base of Monte Fpomeo , ^ m. from the village. The most celebrated is the Gurgitello , containing considerable proportions of carbonate and muriate of soda, and 9 cubic inches per cent, of free carbonic acid gas. The temperature is 158° Eahr. The Gurgitello possesses great efficacy in diseases of nervous irrita- bility, in sciatica, paralysis, gout, chro- nic rheumatism, scrofulous swellings, internal diseases caused by local atony, and in external ulcers and gun-shot wounds. Opposite the springs is a public hospital, founded in 1601 by the Monte della Misericordia of Naples for the poor patients of the city hospitals. There are also numerous private baths for the use of visitors. Near the Gurgi- tello is the Acqua di Cappone, so called from its possessing the smell of chicken broth. It is in repute in visceral affec- tions. It differs from the Gurgitello in the strength of its mineral ingredients and in its temperature, which is only 98 3 F. It supplies the new baths erected by Signor Monti. The Acqua di Bagno Fresco , called also A del Occhio , which rises near the Cappone, is an alkaline water of the same class, used in diseases of the eyes. It is also in favour with the Ischia ladies for its property of whitening the hands. Open- ing into the Valle Ombrasco are the picturesque ravines called the Val di Tamburo and the Val di Sinigalla. [S. Italy.] The former derives its name from the noise produced by the Acqua di Tam- buro , which contains such quantities of carbonic acid gas that its escape is ac- companied by a sound resembling a drum. This water varies in temper- ature from 155°^ to 210° F. At the entrance of the same valley is the Acqua F err at a, which is now neglected. The Acqua Aurifera-Argentea is a very ancient water, commemorating by its name the belief of the early colonists that it contained gold and silver. The Acqua di Bivaz has a temperature of 176°, and a smell of naphtha. In the Yal di Sinigalla, rising in the bed of the Ruscello della Bera , is the Acqua Spenna-pollastro , a water with a temper- atime varying from 167° to 180°. It derives its name from its singular pro- perty of softening the skin of fowls, and so rendering easy the operation of plucking. The Acqua Colata, with a temperature of 178 3 , is a strongly alka- line water, which the peasantry use for bleaching linen. The Acqua Cociva , with a temperature varying from 178° to 190 3 , derives its name from its use in cooking, for which purpose the pea- santry collect it in holes excavated in the earth. The Acqua della Sciatica gushes from the top of a rock at the entrance of the valley. It has a tem- perature of 144°, but it is now super- seded by waters of greater power. In another ravine on the W. of Casamic- ciola, in which we trace the remains of one of the ancient craters, is the Acqua della Bete, which had great celebrity in the 16th cent. Its temperature at the source varies with the season from 149° to 158°. It is employed externally in local weakness arising from sprains and fractures ; the peasantry use it in wash- ing and cooking. In the higher part of the ravine are the Fumaroli de Frassi and di Monticeto , the former emitting vapour at the temperature of 126°, the latter at that of 203°. The Ventarolo is a cavern in the tufa, from which a blast of cold air is' con- stantly issuing. It is used to cool liquors and fruit. P 314 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.— -LACCO -FORIO. Lacco, a pretty village of 1600 Inhab., consisting mostly of persons engaged in the tunny fishery, is beautifully situated in a cove on the sea-shore below Casa- micciola. Among the villas with which it is surrounded is that of Ranella , in which nearly every member of the reign- ing royal family has resided, as have also the ex-King of Bavaria, the late King of Sardinia, the King of Wurtem- berg, and the King of the Belgians. The village contains the ch. and con- vent of Santa Kestituta, the patron saint of the island. At her festa, on the 17 th of May, the traveller will have an opportunity of observing the Greek costumes which still linger in Ischia and Brocida, and of seeing the taran- tella danced. The principal spring at Lacco, the Acqua di S. Restituta , rises near the convent, and is collected for use in a convenient building, where the sand baths, for which Lacco is celebrated, may also be taken. It contains a larger proportion of muriate of soda and mu- riate of potash than any other water in the island, and consequently requires to be used with caution. It is a power- ful agent in the cure of obstructions, rheumatic affections, paralysis, and diseases of the joints. The Acqua Re- gina Isabella rises at the temperature of 106° in the garden of the convent. It contains a larger quantity of free carbonic acid gas than any water in the island, except the Grurgitello , with a large proportion of carbonate, sul- phate, and muriate of soda. It is valuable in all affections arising from a w r ant of tone of the system, in scro- fulous diseases, and in dyspepsia. The Stufa di S. Lorenzo , on the E. ridge which bounds the beautiful valley of S. Montano , is the most celebrated stufa in the island. It is a natural vapour bath, heated by the steam of pure aqueous vapour, issuing from cre- vices at a temperature of 135°. Not far from it, on the E. side of Monte Vico , is a large block of lava, bearing a Greek inscription recording the con- struction of a fortified wall by the Syracusan colonists, before they were driven out by the eruptions. Some doubt has arisen as to the meaning of this inscription, but it appears to state that “ Pacius, Nympsius, and Mains Pacullus, the Archons, and the soldiers, constructed the wall.” The Acqua di S. Montano rises at the foot of a lava current which has flowed from the crater of Monte Yico. Its temperature is 131°, and its medicinal properties correspond with those of S. Restituta. The ground around its source is so hot that it raises the thermometer in a few seconds to 122°. On the shore of Lacco, also, the sand, which is black and shining, is at all times so hot, that a hole made in it becomes in- stantly filled with water at the tem- perature of 112°. Near the mass of lava called Capitello , and at Mezzavia , it is sufficiently hot to raise the ther- mometer to 171°. Eorio (6000 Inhab.), the favourite residence of the Iscliian proprietors, occupies a picturesque position on the W. coast, and has a thriving little port. It is m. distant from Casamicciola, and 2 from Lacco. The road to it traverses the lava current of Cacavelle , which forms the promontories of Zara and Caruso. The Hermitage of Monte Vergine , on the S. ridge of the current, commands an extensive view of the plain of Foria; but the views in the S. half of the island are much less pic- turesque than those in the N., partly from the absence of timber, and partly from the stone ‘walls and terraces, which the inequality of the ground renders necessary for the construction of the vineyards. At Ceriglio j in the suburbs of Forio, in the Yilla Paolone, is the Acqua di Francesco L, rising at a temperature of 113°, and resembling the A. Cappone in its smell of chicken broth. It is used in dyspepsia and weakness of the stomach, in visceral obstructions of a chronic character, and in hysterical affections. The Acqua di Citara rises 1 m. S. of Forio, in a sandy bay near the Capo delV Imperatore. It varies in temperature, according to the season, from 115° to 124° ; in some years it rises to 140°. Its name, de- EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. PANZA — MOROPANO — ISCHIA. 315 rived, as Dr. Ziccardi suggests, from kvt7)(uov , indicates its ancient celebrity, justified by modern experience, in the cure of sterility and in various forms of uterine disease. It is strongly ape- rient. Near its source are hot wells and ancient stufe, wbicli date probably from the time of the Greek colonists ; but they are now disused. Monte Epomeo may be ascended from Forio, ps it may also from Casamicciola ; but the ascent is easier by the route of Pans a. Panza, 1000 Inhab., 2>h in. from Eorio, is situated on the W. slopes of Epomeo. It was a fashionable re- sort when the Aragonese kings had their villa in its neighbourhood, but it is now inhabited chiefly by agriculturists. The Ascent of Monte Fpomeo, called also Monte di S. Nicola , is usually made from Panza, because the hermitage of San Nicola is only 4 m. from the village. The road passes through the villages of Serrara (2 m.) and Eontana (1 m.). The latter place is 1 m. from the summit, which is 2610 ft. above the sea. “ To me,” says Sir Bichard Colt Hoare, “it seemed an rEtna in miniature ; and like that mountain, it may be divided into three regions, the lower cultivated, the middle clothed with rich groves of oaks and chesnuts, and the upper bleak and barren, producing only a few low shrubs and dwarf trees. It is not, however, without inhabitants ; for on this aerial summit some hermits have fixed their abode.” The view from the summit of the mountain embraces a panorama ex- tending from the Punta di Licosa to the Circsean Promontory, and bounded on the N. by the snowy mountains of the Abruzzi. A descent of 2 m. brings us to Moropano, which, with Barano 1 m. further, has 3000 Inhab., chiefly engaged in the manufacture of straw hats. On the W. is the promontory of Sant’ Angelo, crowned by the ruins of a tower, which was destroyed by the British troops when they evacuated the island in 1809. Near the head of the ravine at a short distance from the bridge of Moropano, is the Acqua di Nitro'li. Numerous Latin inscriptions dedicated to the Nymphce Nitrodes , have been found in the neighbourhood. It issues from the lava at a temperature of 86° and contains a considerable quantity of bicarbonate of iron. It is much valued in diseases of the kidneys and in hypochondriasis, and is supposed by Jasolino to be the cause of the longevity of the peasantry of the district, who resort to it as a remedy for all kinds of maladies. In a ravine 1 m. from the coast of Marontes, is the Acqua d’ Ol- mitello, which contains a large propor- tion of the carbonates of soda, magnesia, and lime, the sulphate and muriate of soda, and a quantity of free carbonic acid gas. It is very useful in visceral obstructions, in renal and urinary affec- tions, and in cutaneous and other dis- eases dependent on a disordered state of the liver. The peasantry use it in injections in cases of deafness. In the adjoining ravine of Cavqscura is the Acqua di Betrelles , which bears a strong analogy to the Gurgitello at Casamic- ciola ; it rises at a temperature of 203 , and is used by the peasantry in chronic rheumatism. In the shore near the Punta di S. Angelo are several Fu- maroles of such power that the sand in which they occur raises the thermo- meter to 212°. At the little village from which they derive their name are the Stufe di Testaccio. In one of the fissures from which the hot ah issues the temperature is 196°, but that of the other sources, when closed, is not more than 122°. Beyond Barano, on the E., is the cone of Monte Jezza^ and be- tween that and the town of Ischia is the large crater of Monte Campagnano , from which an ancient stream of lava may be traced, the castle of Ischia standing near its extremity. Ischia (6000 Inhab.), the capital o'f the island, is 3 m. from Barano and 4 E. of Casamicciola. It is the see of a bishopric, but it has never recovered its prosperity since the eruption of 1302. P 2 316 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. ISCHIA. Its Castle , built by Alfonso I. of Ara- gon, stands on a lofty isolated rock of the lava which flowed from the crater of Campagnano. It rises out of the sea opposite the island of Yivara, and is connected with the mainland by a mole constructed on a narrow isthmus. The town stretches along the coast from this mole as far as the Punta Molina. Mr. Stanfield has made the picturesque beauty of this castle familiar to us by one of the most characteristic pro- ductions of his pencil. The road to the baths crosses the lava current called the Lava delV Arso, produced by the eruption of 1302. This lava, which contains a large quantity of felspar, is still hard and barren like the recent lavas of Vesuvius. There is no crater ; but the point from which it issued is marked by a depression in the surface, and by the vast heaps of scoriae which surround it. The distance of this mouth from the sea is 2 m. Francesco Lom- bardi and Pontanus, who have left a description of the eruption, say that it lasted two months, that many in- habitants were destroyed, and others fled to the continent. Pontanus had here a villa, of which we find a memorial in the Acqua di Pontano , situated in a garden supposed to have formed part of the villa. Jasolino, who describes it under the name of the “A. del G-iardino del Pontano ,” extols its efficacy in cases of gravel, strangury, &c. Since his time it has fallen into disuse ; the tem- perature is 93°. The Lalce of Ischia , close to the sea-shore, 1 m. from the town, is an ancient crater filled with brackish water, with a little island of lava in the centre. It was formerly in the winter season the resort of innu- merable water-fowl ; but recently it has been changed into a harbour of refuge for vessels prevented by stress of wea- ther from reaching Naples. The h i lls which surround it on the S., covered with orange, groves, vineyards, and olive plan- tations, in the midst of which is the Loyal Casino, are extremely picturesque. On the shore of the lake are the two ancient springs which constitute the Bagno d ’ Ischia , under the names of the Acqua della Fontana and the Acqua del For- nello. They rise from different sources, but are identical in their mineral charac- ters, containing muriate of soda com- bined with the carbonates of soda and magnesia, and free carbonic acid gas. These are the waters to which Strabo is supposed to allude in his description of certain baths at Ischia, which were considered a cure for stone. They are highly stimulating, and are used in diseases which are complicated with atony, in sluggish ulcers, scrofulous swellings, and rheumatic affections of the joints. Their temperature varies from 131° to 138°. A bath-house has recently been erected here for the convenience of visitors. On the high ground above the lake are the extinct craters of Montagnone and Monte Potaro ; and on the N.W. is a third, called Monte Taborre. The two former bear every mark of having been formed by a single eruption. Monte Potaro, which is supposed to have been the re- sult of the eruption which expelled the Erythraean colony, has thrown out a current of lava from its base, which may be traced to the sea by the masses of pumice and obsidian which encumber the surface. A torrent has broken down the N. of the cone, where its structure may be examined. It is composed of beds of scoriae, pumice, and lapilli, in which- vast blocks of trachyte are im- bedded. The outer surface of the cone is covered with the arbutus, the myrtle, the broom, the lentiscus, and other trees. “ Such is the strength of its virgin soil,” says Sir Charles Lyell, “ that the shrubs have been almost arborescent ; and the growth of some of the smaller wild plants has been so vigorous, that botanists have scarcely been able to recognise the species.” Monte Taborre, which is nearer the sea, is composed of trachytic tufa, resting on a bed of clay, in which are found marine shells of species still living in the Mediterranean. On the shore at the E. base of the promontory is the Acqua di Castiglione , less brackish than the Bagno dC Ischia, but of the same chemical character. Its temperature is EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — NORTHERN DISTRICT MADDALONI. 317 167° at its source, and from 100° to 104° in the reservoir. The sand on the shore near it is so hot that it raises the thermometer in a few minutes to 212°, and there is a hot spring in the sea itself at a short distance from the beach. The water of Castiglione is a tonic aperient, and is much used in stomach complaints caused by a lan- guid state of the intestinal canal. The Stufe di Castiglione situated on the hills above the baths, are vapour baths heated by steam, which issues from orifices in the lava, at a temperature of 122 3 in the lower, and of 133° in the upper stufa. The Stufa di Cacciuto occurs in the lava which flowed from Monte Taborre, and is of the same cha- racter as those of Castiglione, but much hotter, the temperature being 160°, and the aqueous vapour being entirely free from any saline ingredients. The noise of the water boiling beneath the rocky surface may be distinctly heard. From this point we may return either to Lacco or Casamicciola by different roads. The distance in either case is about 2 m. The Northern District. MADDALONI, CASERTA, CAIAZZO, ALIFE, PIEDIMONTE, SANTA MARIA DI CAPUA, CARDITELLO. A straight road from Capodichino leads to Caserta, and at the 10th mile- stone a branch turns on the rt. to Mad- daloni, both towns equidistant from Naples (13 m.). This road is now scarcely ever followed, the Caserta Bail- way affording better means of visiting this district from Naples. Casalnuovo Stat. is a straggling village in the midst of the fertile Campanian plain. Acerra Stat. (10,300 Inhab.), 8 m. from Naples, retains the site as well as the name, but no remains, of Acerra, an ancient town of Campania, which ob- tained the Roman civitas as early as 332 b.c. It was plundered and burnt by Hannibal in b.c. 216. During the Social war it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Samnite general. C. Papius. Acerra is the supposed birthplace of the Nea- politan Pulcinella k Between the two stations the railway proceeds by the side of the Acqua di Carmignano, the aqueduct that brings the water from S. Agata to Naples (p. 84) ; and it crosses the sluggish canals, called the Regi Lagni, which divide the provinces of Naples and Terra di Lavoro, constructed for the purpose of draining the Pantano, or marsh, of Acerra, the ancient Clanius, from which they take their name, and which, rising near Avella, devastated Acerra in ancient times with its floods, and during the middle ages with its unhealthy stagnation : — Et vacuis Clanius non sequus Acerris. Virg. Georg , n. 226. Acerra. and especially Casalnuovo, are still subject to malaria, which is in- creased by the flax-grounds, where the stalks are left to macerate. The Lagni are carried across the country, and flow into the sea in two branches, the prin- cipal one near the mouth of the Yol- turno, the other through the Lago di Patria. Cancello Stat., a village at the base of a hill which advances into the Cam- panian plain from the ridge of the Apennines, and which is crowned with a large ruined castle flanked with towers. From here the railway to Nola branches off on the rt. Maddaloni Stat. (16,000 Inhab.) is picturesquely built round the base of a hill whose lower peak is crowned with the round towers of its mediaeval castle, and the highest with the large ch. of S. Michele. It is supposed to have sprung up in the 9th centy. It contains many good houses and churches, and 2 indifferent Pans. The massive and imposing baronial palace of the Cara- fas, its former dukes, is in a dilapi- dated state. Leaving the railway, and following the high road to Campobasso (Rte. 145), 2 m. from Maddaloni, at the 318 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — PONTE DELLA YALLE— CASERTA. upper end of a narrow defile, we reach the Ponte della Valle, or di Madda- loni , the name commonly given to the Caroline Aqueduct, which conveys the water from the skirts of Mt. Taburno to the Royal Gardens of Caserta, along a circuitous course of 21 m. The sources of the stream are at Airola and at Fizzo. The latter place was also the source of the Aqua Julia carried to ancient Capua. For a great part of the v *distance the water is conveyed by tunnelsVxcavated through the mountains, but in the hollows aqueducts have been con- structed, the most remarkable of which is the Ponte della Valle, between Monte Longano and Monte Garzano. This aqueduct is justly the pride of the Nea- politans. It consists of three tiers of arches rising to the height of about 190 ft., and has a length at the summit of about 1820 ft. The lower tier has 19 arches, the middle 28. and the upper one 43. A carriage can drive along the upper tier. The high road to Cam- pobasso passes under the centre arch. This gigantic work, not surpassed by any similar one in Italy, was begun by Charles III. from the designs of VanviteUi, and was completed by his successor Ferdinand I. From the Ponte della Valle we may either proceed by a new road, of 5 m., which crosses the ridge of Mt. S. Michele , and winds its way down to Caserta, passing through fine scenery, and af- fording a most glorious view of the Campania Felix and its numberless towns and town-like villages, or we may resume the railway at Maddaloni and proceed to Caserta Stat. (10,800 Inhab.), the capital of the province of Terra di Lavoro, the residence of the Intend- ente, and the see of a bishop. On the j hills behind it, on the N.E., is Caserta ' r ecchia, built by the Lombards, and still surrounded by walls and bas- j tions, which are, probably, as old as : the 8th centy. Its great attraction is the Royal Palace of Caserta. — The railway stat. is just opposite this palace, which is the masterpiece of Vanvitelli, and is reputed one of the finest in Eu- rope. In order to see it, as well as the Gardens and S. Leucio, the traveller must obtain, at Naples, three distinct orders from the Intendant of the Royal Household. Charles III. bought, in 1750, the estate of Caserta from the Dukes of Sermoneta, for 81,500^., and began the palace in 1752. From whatever side the palace is approached, we cannot fail to be struck with the singular ele- gance and harmony of the design. It is a rectangular building, whose four sides nearly face the cardinal points. The length of the front on the S. side is 780 ft. ; the height 125 ft. ; each floor has 37 windows. It is in the richest style of Italian architecture, and built of travertine from the quarries of S. Iorio, near Capua. The great en- trance opens upon a portico which pierces the whole depth of the palace, and through which the cascade is seen in the distance. From the centre of this portico, where the four courts form a cross, springs the grand stair- case, built of lumachella of Trapani. At the top of the staircase is the great vestibule, ornamented with rich marbles and Doric columns of Sicilian breccia. The interior of the palace is more remarkable for its architecture than for the decorations or furniture of the rooms. The Chapel , upon which marbles, lapis lazuli, and gilding have been lavished, contains a Presentation in the Temple by Mengs, five pictures by Seb. Conca, and an altar-piece by Bonito. The Theatre, decorated with ala- baster columns, has five rows of boxes. The 16 Corinthian columns of African marble were taken from the Temple of Serapis at Pozzuoli. There are 40 boxes, besides that for the royal family. The Gardens will afford more pleasure than the uninhabited chambers of the palace. The cascades are supplied by the aque- duct, whose waters, after passing through the grounds, are united with those of Carmignano to supply the capital. The cascades are arranged so as to form a combination of fountains and statues. The grand cascade is made to represent EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. — PIEDIMONTE. 319 tlie story of Diana and Actgeon. In the basins of some of these cascades are kept several gigantic trout, where they thrive well and are fed on frogs. The English garden on the E. side was made by Queen Caroline in 1782. The views from various parts of the grounds, and especially from the terrace above the cascade, are extremely interesting. In the 1. of the park still exists a por- tion of the ancient feudal forest of the princes of Caserta. Adjoining the N. end of the Gardens is the Royal Casino of S. Leucio, which can be reached either by walking through the Park, or by a road that runs outside its walls. It is 3 m. from the palace, and enjoys a much more extensive view. The hill rising behind it is covered with an ilex forest, abounding in game. From Caserta we may either proceed by railway to S. Maria di Capua, or prolong the excursion and visit Caiazzo, Alife, and Piedimonte. From Caserta the road to Caiazzo fol- lows the park-wall, and, passing through a tunnel under the pleasure-grounds, skirts S. Leucio. Through a wild ravine which divides the mountains Tifata and Callicola, and by a descent called the Gradillo, it reaches the Yolturno, which is crossed by a ferry-boat, and thence proceeds to 8 m. Caiazzo (5000 Inhab.), on a hill commanding a striking view of the sur- rounding country. It stands on the site, and nearly retains the name, of Calatia , an important town of Samnium, often noticed during the Samnite wars. It was still a considerable place under the Empire. In the market-place are several ancient inscriptions, and some remains of its massive walls. A large cistern, of ancient construction, supplies the inhab. with water. From Caiazzo a long descent of 8 m. along the Telia torrent brings us again to the Yolturno, which is crossed by another ferry 3 m. before we reach 11m. Alife (2500 Inhab.), a deserted- looking village in a swampy hollow. It occupies the site, retains the name, and preserves considerable remains, of Allifce, a city of Samnium, near which Fabius gained a decisive victory over the Sam- nites in b c. 307. Remains of its ancient walls and gates, of some large therm gs, and of a theatre and an amphitheatre, still exist. From Alife a road of 9 ro., along the 1. bank of the V olturno, fol- lows the track of an ancient branch of the Via Latina, and skirts the hills below the villages of S. Angelo and Raviseanino until it reaches the ferry of S. Angelo, from whence proceeding E. by Pietravairano (4000 Inhab.), it joins the road from the Abruzzi at the Ta- verna di Caianiello (Rte. 141). Another road, which is a continuous avenue of poplars, leads from Alife to 2 m. Piedimonte (9000 Inhab. ; Inn : small, but good), the chief town of a district occupying a commanding posi- tion at the foot of the Matese range of mountains. It arose on the ruins of Allifse, and many of the principal build- ings are said to be constructed with the materials of that city. It commands the mountain ranges of the Matese, the Tifata, and the Taburno, with the whole valley of the Volturno as far as its junction with the Calore. Its principal building is the Palace of the Duke of Lauren- zana, in which is preserved a list of the chiefs of the Gaetani family. The torrent which issues from a cavern in the magnificent ravine called the Val d’lnferno is supposed to derive its bright, sparkling, and abundant waters from the Lago del Matese by subter- ranean channels. It supplies, with the other torrents of the valley, and turns several paper, flour, fulling, and copper mills. There are some cotton manu- factures in the town, and the cultivation of the vine and olive supplies an addi- tional source of wealth to its indus- trious citizens. The oil is held in high repute, and one of the wines has a local celebrity under the name of the Pella- grello. Piedimonte is the best place to make the ascent of the Matese from. This group of mountains is nearly 70 m. in circum- ference, and its highest peak, Monte ML leto, is 6745 ft. high. It formed, as it I were, the centre of ancient Samnium 320 EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES. STA. MARIA MAGGIORE. five of whose principal cities, JEsernia , Bovianum, Saepinum, Telesia, and Allifce, stood at the foot of the group. A path which is practicable for mules leads over it, and is frequented in summer as the shortest communication between Piedimonte and Boiano. After passing the villages of Gastello and S. Gregorio , the path becomes much steeper till it reaches an elevated plain, surrounded by the highest peaks and clothed in summer with rich pasture. In the middle of this plain is a lake about 3 m. in circuit, in which are delicious trout ; in the centre there is a wooded island. The ascent from Piedimonte occupies nearly 5 hrs., and the descent about 3, whether it be to Piedimonte, or on the other side to Boiano. Resuming the Rly. at Caserta, we arrive at Santa Maria Maggiore St at., or S. Maria di Capua (20,000 Inhab.), the seat of the Tribunals of Terra di Lavoro. a thriving town standing on the site of ancient Capua. It would be out of place here to enter into any account of the tra- ditions respecting the origin of ancient Capua. It will be sufficient to state that it was founded by the Etruscan settlers in Campania under the name of Vulturnum, and that it became known as Capua after its occupation by the Samnites. Among the cities of Italy, Capua was second to Rome alone ; and even after it had submitted to the pro- tection of the Romans, its celebrity ex- tended not only to every part of Italy, but even to Greece and Sicily. But the natural pride and ambition of the Cam- panians, says Dr. Cramer, “ increasing with these accessions of fame and im- portance, could not resist the temptation held out to them by the successes of Hannibal, of being raised through his means to the first rank among the Italian cities. The details of the ne- gotiations carried on between that great commander and the Capuans are related at great length in the 23rd book of Livy. It is well known that the alliance which was formed proved fatal to both parties. The Carthaginian forces, enervated by the pleasures of Capua, could no longer obtain the same brilliant successes which had hitherto attended their victorious career, and that city soon saw itself threatened by a powerful Roman army encamped before its walls. The siege was formed and carried on with that determination which the desire of ven- geance inspires. Hannibal, baffled in all his attempts to create a diversion in favour of his unfortunate allies, was compelled to leave them to their fate. Capua was then reduced to the necessity of surrendering to its incensed, and, as the event too surely proved, merciless foe. Those senators who had not by a voluntary death anticipated the sentence of the Roman general fell under the axe of the lictor. The citizens were reduced to slavery. Even the walls and habitations were only spared, as Livy reports, in order that the best lands of Italy might not be destitute of cultivators.” It was restored to fa- vour by the Caesars, and in Strabo’s time it had recovered its former magnificence. The last important increase was under Nero ; but we know from inscriptions that it continued to flourish till a late period of the Roman empire, when it fell under the repeated attacks and de- vastations of the Goths, Vandals, and Lombards. Its circumference has been estimated at between 5 and 6 m., and its population at no less than 300,000 Inhab. The ancient city had 7 gates, leading to different parts of Campania. Of these the Porta Casilinensis and Porta Albana were upon the Appian Way. The Porta Jovis, mentioned by Livy, is supposed to have led to the temple of Jupiter on Mons Tifata. The gates called Cumana, Atellana, and Liternina, led in the direction of the towns from which they derived their names. The two principal quarters of the town were called Seplasia and Albana , the first of which was noted as the abode of perfumers. The most remarkable ruin is the Amphitheatre, which Cicero describes as capable of holding 100,000 persons. It is supposed to have been the oldest amphitheatre in Italy, and to have served ROUTE 145. — NAPLES TO CAMPOBASSO. 321 as a model for all the others. Three of its corridors still exist in a tolerable state of preservation ; and the remains of two more may also be seen be- yond them. These corridors were en- tered by a series of arches, of which only 2 remain, although there could not have been less than 80. On the key- stone are busts of deities. The walls are composed of blocks of travertine joined together without cement. The arena, which has been recently cleared out, contains many substructions and apart- ments, resembling those of the amphi- theatre at Pozzuoli, which enable us to form a better idea of the internal ar- rangement of these kinds of buildings than even the Coliseum itself. The steps which the gladiators are supposed to have ascended, the place where they were carried out when killed, the prison, and the dens of the animals are easily recognised. The passages are tilled with ruins of the building, forming a little museum, among which are por- tions of Corinthian columns, ana some fine fragments of marble friezes, &c., carved with bas-reliefs of lions, stags, dogs, and other animals. Gladiatorial combats were invented by the Campa- nians ; and the awning, or velarium , employed in the Roman theatres, was first used here. The best place for en- joying a full view of the building is the second story. After the city of Capua had been destroyed by the Saracens, in the yth cent., the amphitheatre was converted into a citadel, and was totally ruined by the defence of the Saracens against Athanasius Bishop of Naples, by whom they were besieged. At a short distance are the remains of a triumphal arch, under which the road to modern Capua passes. The principal ch. contains many marble and granite columns from Roman buildings ; and under the modern Barracks the remains of a large crypt and portico are still visible. From S. Maria we may return to Naples by railway, or by the road through S. Tammaro, visiting the Casino Beale di Carditello , 2 m. on the rt., a Royal farm with a prettily decorated cottage, extensive stabling for the cattle, and a wood forming a reserved chace of the wild boar. The farm is sur- rounded by a wall of 6 m. On As- cension-day it is the scene of a popular Festa. ROUTE 145. NAPLES TO CAMPOBASSO AND TERMOLI, BY MADDALONI, WITH EXCURSIONS TO BOIANO AND THE TREMITI ISLANDS. Posts. Naples to Maddaloni . . . . li Maddaloni to Torella . . . . Torella to Lupo ...... 1J Lupo to Morcone 1 Morcone to S. Giuliano ... 1 S. Giuliano to Campobasso . . 1 Campobasso to Campolieto . . 1 \ Campolieto to Casacalende . . 1J Casacalende to Vairano . . . lj Yairano to Termoli .... If 13| The malle-poste leaving Naples on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 12 p.m. takes 3 passengers as far as Campobasso, where conveyances can be procured to proceed to Termoli. The traveller can also reach Maddaloni by railway, and there hire a carriage to Campobasso. 13 m. Maddaloni, described at p. 317. On leaving the town we ascend a narrow valley for 2 m. when it suddenly widens, and the road passes under the centre arch of the Ponte della Valle . The line of this watercourse is seen on the rt. skirting the Mt. Ta- burno, and marked by a wide path with turrets at intervals. 2 m. farther, after passing the village of Valle on the 1., we p 3 322 ROUTE 145 . — NAPLES TO CAMPOBASSO. leave on the rt. S. Agata de’ Goti (5400 1 Inhab.), which stands on a hill of vol- canic tufa, surrounded by the Isclero, and is supposed to be situated near the site of Saticola. Many ancient coins, and several tombs which contained some fine vases now in the Museo Bor- bonico, were found in its vicinity. The pass between S. Agata and Moiano is considered by some antiquaries to be the Caudine Forks, as it corresponds more closely with Livy’s description than the defile near Arpaia. (Rte. 146.) After crossing the Isclero, Caiazzo is seen in the distance on the 1., and the Volturno in the foreground. Passing through the village of Ducenta with its ruined castle and stately baronial mansion, the road skirts the foot of Mt. Taburno on the rt., and on the 1. the Volturno, till it reaches the banks of the Galore. This river falls into the Volturno after the 22nd m. near the vil- lage of Campagnano, which is seen on the 1. At the 27th m. we leave on the- rt. Solipaca (4500 Inhab.), beautifully situated at the foot of Mt. Taburno; and 1 m. beyond it we cross the Calore. \_Telese, situated on a rising ground opposite to Solipaca, near a sulphurous pool dignified with the name of Lago di Telese, which is constantly exhaling sulphuretted hydrogen and rendering the neighbourhood unhealthy. It is a miserable village, frequented in summer by the country people for its mineral waters. Close to it are the ruins of the Samnite town of Telesia , which was oc- cupied by Hannibal, and afterwards re- taken and destroyed by the Romans. It received a colony under Augustus. It was the birthplace of Pontius Telesinus, the Samnite general who joined Marius, and, after defeating Sylla, was routed and slain. In the 9th cent. Telesia suf- fered severely from earthquakes, and was at last totally destroyed by the Saracens. A branch road, of 3 m. proceeds to Cer- reto (6500 Inhab.), a flourishing town in the valley of the Titerno, from whence by a tolerable road of 8 m. along the foot of the Matese, through the villages of S. Lorenzello, Faicchio, and Lauduni , we reach Piedimonte (p. 319), A bridle- path of 6 m. leads from Cerreto to Pietraroia , placed on the slope of Mt. Mutria (5612 feet), one of the highest peaks of the Matese group, composed of limestone of the Neocomian or Oolitic period, which contains fossil fish at Pietra Poja .] From the bank of the Calore a steep ascent of 4 m. brings us to 19 m. Guardia Sanframondi, or Guar- dia delle Sole (4000 Inhab. Inn: La Posta, tolerable), on a hill command- ing a most extensive view of the course of the Calore and the Vol- turno, of the valley of Faicchio and its Casali, on the rt. above which rise the broken peaks of the Matese ; in front is the fine group of Taburno, the lower slopes of which are clothed with vineyards and olive plantations, as in the days of Virgil, and the higher regions with rich pastures and vast forests. Juvat Ismara Baccho Conserere, atque olea magnum vestire Tabur- num. ViBGr. Geor. ir. 37. Ac velut ingenti Sila, summove Taburno, Cum duo conversis inimica in prselia tauri Frontibus incurrunt, etc. jEn. xii. 715. Guardia is the sleeping-place of the vetturini between Naples and Campo- basso. The simplest plan for a tourist who does not proceed to Campobasso, but is desirous of seeing Guardia and the beautiful scenery surrounding it, and of returning to Naples the same evening, is to start from Naples by an early train for Maddaloni, and there order a light carriage with three horses to meet him at the station. On quitting Guardia the road follows the upper side of the mountain to S. Lupo, a village where the province of Molise, called also Sannio, is entered. After a tedious succession of ascents and descents, as far as the 38^ m., where the village of Ponte Landblfo is passed on the rt., and a road branches off which leads to Troia (Rte. 148), a descent brings us to the valley of the Tama.ro, leaving 1^ m. on the 1. the town of Morcone. The road follows the course of the Tamaro to Sepino. — The village 2^ m. off the road on the 1. preserves the name of Scepinum, one of the most important towns of Sam- nium, which offered a determined resist- ROUTE 145. — EXCURSION - TO BOIANO. 323 ance to the Consul Papirius Cursor, who at last subdued it and put to the sword most of its inhab. Under Nero it re- ceived a colony and became a munici- pium. Its ruins are 1 m. N. of the modern village in the plain below, and are within 1 hPs ride from the post- station ; they are now called Altilia. The outer wall of reticulated masonry is still perfect ; its gates are flanked with square towers, and there are remains of a theatre, a subterranean aqueduct, &c. On the E. gate is the inscription given by Gruter and Muratori, and containing an admonition to the magistrates to protect the drovers of the flocks in their annual passage through the town, as great complaints had reached Rome of the conduct of the soldiers and inhab. ; it is now illegible, but the road is still followed by the shepherds in their an- nual migration from the mountains of the Abruzzi to the plains of Apulia. 1 S. Giuliano , on the top of a hill. EXCURSION TO BOIANO. 2 m. after passing the post-station of S. Giuliano a road branches off on the 1. to Boiano and Isernia, and connects the road to Campobasso and Termoli with the high-road of the Abruzzi. Another road is being constructed, which, start- ing from near Ponte Landolfo on the rt., will lead by Troia to Foggia, and open a communication between this moun- tainous district and the Apulian plains. The road on the 1. leads by a winding de- scent into the valley of Boiano (about 8 m.), through wild and gloomy scenes, broken into dark ravines, and thickly clothed with forests, the Boviania lustra of Silius Italicus, viii. 566. 10 m. Boiano (3400 Inhab.), the ancient Bovianum, which played an important part during the Samnite wars, and was the last stronghold of the confederates during the Social War, and the seat of their general coun- cil after the fall of Corfinium. It stands on a rocky hill, one of the last off-shoots of the Matese, which over- shadows it on the S.W. so completely as to deprive it of the sun for 3 months in the year. Its fortifications, men- tioned by Livy, are still traceable in the scanty remains of its walls of large polygonal blocks, with the smaller interstices nicely filled up. It con- tinued as a municipium under the Em- pire. It was destroyed by an earth- quake in 853, and has subsequently suffered severely from other earth- quakes. The Biferno that flows by it abounds with trout. The ascent of the Matese can be made from Boiano (p. 320). From Boiano the road ascends the rt. bank of the river, passes through Can- talupo (2500 Inhab.), and proceeds below Pettorano to 16 m. Isernia. (Rte. 143.) From the post-station of S. Giuliano, the road, passing by a steep ascent over dull and barren hills, proceeds to 1 m. Campobasso (10,400 Inhab. Inn : La Posta, good), the capital of the pro- vince of Molise, situated in the most dreary scenery of the province. It is supposed by some geographers to mark the site of ancient Samnium. The cathe- dral is a fine building, and the ch. of St. Antonio Abate contains a picture of St. Benedict, said to be by Guercino. The town contains a small theatre, and many palaces of the resident nobility. The ruined castle and the 5 gateways with their antique towers give it a remarkable aspect. Campobasso is the central mart for the corn trade of the province, and has a local reputation for its cutlery. From Campobasso the road proceeds to the post-station of lj Campolieto (1800 Inhab.), to 1| Casacalenda (5900 Inhab.), sup- posed to occupy the site of the ancient Calela, where Fabius encamped to watch Hannibal, who had taken up his winter quarters at Gerunium, which stood at a spot called Gerione, 1^ m. E. It was here that the rashness of Minucius caused an engagement in which the 324 ROUTE 145 . — TREMITI ISLANDS. Roman army was nearly defeated ; 6 m. further by a very hilly road we reach Larino (4500 Inhab.), the see of a bishop and the chief town of a district, retaining the name of Labinum, whose extensive remains are at a short dis- tance beyond the modern town, and near the road on the 1. Its territory was traversed by the Consul Claudius on his march to the Metaurus to oppose the progress of Hasdrubal, and by Caesar on his advance to Brundu- sium in pursuit of Pompey. Larinum was the birthplace of A. Cluentius, known by Cicero’s oration in his behalf. The existing remains of a vast amphi- theatre, 2 temples, baths, and other public and private buildings, attest its former size and importance. On leaving Larino the road descends into the level plain called il Piano di Larino , in which is the post-station of If Vairano ; then crossing the Cigno torrent, and afterwards the Biferno, the Iprge village of Guglionesi is seen on the hills to the 1. If m. Termoli (2000 Inhab..; Inn? small and indifferent), placed between Ancona and Brindisi. It is the see of a bishop, and the second port of the kingdom in the Adriatic, but its com- merce has much declined of late years. THE TREMITI ISLANDS. These islands, the Insulae Diomedece, known in classical mythology for the metamorphosis of the companions of Diomed into birds, are 22 m. N.E. of the promontory of Termoli. The largest of them, now S. Domenico , the Insula Diomedia of the ancients, called by Tacitus Trimerum , from which evi- dently the present name of the group is derived, was the spot selected by Augustus for the place of exile of his granddaughter Julia, the wife of Lepi- dus, who lingered for 20 years until her death. This island is remarkable for a forest of Aleppo pines (Pin us Halepensis). The next in size is called Caprara, from the wild capers which grow luxuriantly upon it. The middle one, which is the smallest, is called S. Maria or S. Nicola , and is the place where Paulus Warne- fridus, better known as Paulus Diaconus, the secretary of Desiderius the last king of the Longobards, was exiled by Charlemagne. Charles II. erected on this island a fortress, which w r as so much strengthened afterwards by the Lateran canons as to resist successfully an attack of the Turkish fleet in 1567. The monastery, founded originally by the Benedictines in the 11th centy., was suppressed in 1783, and since 1797 the island has been a prison for culprits from Naples. From Termoli, in the summer time, we can proceed to Vasto (Rte. 143) by a via no.turale. Another via naturalc of 16 m. leads through Chieuti, a village supposed to occupy the site of Teate Apidum, and through Serra- capriola (5000 Inhab.), to the Fortore, the ancient Frento, which is crossed by a bridge rebuilt in 1 780 upon Roman foundations, and called Ponte di Civitate , from a town which stood near it in the middle ages, but which has long disap- peared. From the bridge a new road of 11 m. leads to Sansevero (Rte. 148). It was on the plain near Civitate that the battle between the Normans and the forces of Leo IX. took place on the 18th June, 1053. The Pope, who com- manded in person, commenced his cam- paign by a pilgrimage to Mte. Casino to implore the blessing of heaven upon his arms. After a vain attempt to induce him to treat for peace, the Normans gave battle. The issue was not long doubtful ; the populace, who had been induced by the preaching of the monks to join the Pope, fled in utter disorder ; 500 Germans, contributed by the Emp. Henry III., alone maintained their ground, and, being surrounded by the Normans, perished almost to a man. The Pope fled to Civitate, but the inha- bitants refused to shelter him, and drove him alone from their gates. The Nor- mans immediately advanced apparently ROUTE 146 . — NAPI to make him their prisoner; hut they knelt as they approached, imploring his pardon and benediction. Leo was con- ducted to their camp, and treated with so much respect that he soon reconciled himself to the race, and granted to the brothers Humphrey and Guiscard that memorable investiture of Apulia, Cala- bria, and Sicily, which was to become so important not only to the Norman rule, but also to the Church itself. ROUTE 146. NAPLES TO BENEVENTO. 34 m. As this is not a post-road, travellers must hire a carriage, or proceed by rail- way to Maddaloni, and thence in a light conveyance to Benevento. By the latter means a tourist, starting early, will be able to return to Naples the same even- ing by a late train. Benevento being a part of the Papal States, passports must have the visa of the Nuncio, and be countersigned by the police. The road branches off from the great route to Apulia (Rte. 148) at the 4th m., and, after passing through Casalnuovo and Acerra, winds, at the 1 1th m., round the base of the hill of Cancello, and enters the valley of Arienzo. The approach to the town is very pleasing, through a richly-cultivated country abounding in elms and walnut-trees. If we start from Maddaloni the road proceeds along the foot of the mountains through the pretty village of S. Maria a Vico, and enters the valley of Arpaja. 16 m. Arienzo (4000 Inhab.), one long street, surrounded by gardens and olive and orange trees. The ch. and convent of the Cappuccini is considered .ES TO BENEVENTO. 325 to be one of the best works of Carlo Zoccoli. There is a tolerable Inn. The road now begins to ascend the hills, to 3 m. Arpaia (1200 Inhab.), a poor village situated at the upper end of the valley, and supposed to stand upon or near the site of Gaudium, a station on the Via Appia. There is a Roman mile- stone with the number XVI. The hill on the 1. of the village, called Costa Cauda, is covered with ruins. Between Arienzo and Arpaia the road passes through a narrow defile, considered by most antiquaries to be the Furculce Caudince, or Caudine Forks, while others place them in the pass between Sant’ Agata de’ Goti and Moiano (Rte. 145). The precise scene of that event is still the vexata questiQ of Italian topography. The Caudine Forks are represented by Livy as a narrow valley, shut in on either side by inaccessible mountains, and tra- versed by a small stream. The approach to it at each extremity was so narrow that a slight obstruction sufficed to im- pede the passage. The Roman army in their march from Calatia to Luceria passed through this defile, having been induced to quit their encampment at Calatia by an artifice of C. Pontius, the Samnite general, who had ordered ten soldiers, disguised as shepherds, to ap- proach the Roman outposts with their flocks, and induce the Roman army to march forward by the false intelligence that the Samnites were engaged in the siege of Luceria. The Romans, on arriving at the extremity of the pass, found it completely closed by trees and stones, while their retreat was cut off by the Samnites, who had in the mean time occupied the heights in the rear. Deprived of the power of resistance, the Roman army, after encamping in the valley for some days, was compelled by famine to surrender and submit to the degradation of passing under the yoke. The principal point of the argument turns upon the precise position of Ca- latia. There were two towns of this name near Capua : one, Caiazzo, being within the frontier of Samnium, on the rt. bank of the Volturno; the other in Campania, on the Appian Way, at a 326 ROUTE 146. — CAUDINE FORKS — BENEVENTO. place still called Le Galazze, between Caserta and Maddaloni. Most of the Italian antiquaries, followed by Dr. Cramer, whilst admitting that Livy’s narrative is not strictly applicable to the Pass of Arpaia, still decide it to be the Furculce. They consider that the Roman army was not encamped on the N. side of the Volturno, for not only there is no mention of their passage of the river, but they need not have crossed it at all, as they would have proceeded along its rt. bank N. of Beneventum ; and, had the army been on the rt. bank, the shepherds who gave them the false intelligence of the siege of Luceria must have carried their flocks across the river. Assuming then that the Campanian Calatia was the head-quarters of the Roman army, the pass of Arpaia would have been their direct line of march to Luceria. In corroboration of this view it is added that tradition has given the valley between Arienzo and Arpaia the name of Valle Caudina, and that a village in this valley is still called Forchia. It is also added that in a country like that which surrounds Naples, consider- able changes must have taken place from natural causes ; and drainage and cultivation have probably done more towards altering the aspect of the coun- try during that period than even natural convulsions. On the other side, in favour of the pass between S. Agata de’ Goti and Moiano, it is argued that it corresponds exactly with Livy’s description of the locality, being shut in by high moun- tains, traversed by the Tsdero stream, and accessible at both sides by narrow defiles. From Livy’s account it is clear that Caudium itself was not in the pass. If the Romans wore in the Samnite Calatia, the way through it to Bene- ventum would be much shorter than through the pass of Arpaia ; and even assuming that they were in the Cam- panian Calatia, the route through this pass would be as short, if not shorter, than that through the pass of Arpaia. It is remarkable that there is no men- tion of the Caudine Forks after this event ; had they lain between Arienzo and Arpaia, on the Via Appia, the great high road from Capua to Beneventum, they would certainly have been men- tioned during the Second Punic War, when such a pass would have been of great strategic importance. The want of any allusion to the Furculce by Horace, who traversed the pass of Arpaia, seems also to prove that they were out of the beaten track : — Hinc nos Cocceii recipit plenissima villa, Quas super est Caudi cauponas. — Sat. i. 5. The arguments appear to us to be in favour of the pass of S. Agata de’ Goti ; unless we reject altogether Livy’s ac- count, and suppose that the Romans, having sustained a defeat, greatly exag- gerated the difficulties of tHfe locality. This view of the question is to a certain degree supported by Cicero’s double allusion to the battle and defeat near Caudium. After leaving Arpaia, among the hills on the 1., and on the road leading to S. Agata, is the small town of Airola, remarkable for its picturesque position. The road proceeds through a cultivated valley to 4§ m. Montesarchio (6000 Inhab.), surmounted by a castle of large size, once a stronghold of the d’Avalos family, to whom it gives the title* of marquis. It has lately been converted into a state prison, and some of the most eminent men, among them Baron Pieri, who have of late years taken part in the political struggles of their country, are at present confined in it. On the N., forming a conspicuous object in the prospect, is the lofty range of Mt. Ta- burno. [From Montesarchio a road of 12 m. leads to Avellino (Rte. 148), along the base of Monte Vergine.] Beyond Montesarchio the Sarretella is crossed by 3 Roman bridges, leaving Apollora on a hill to the 1. The ap- proach to Benevento is through a grove of poplars and richly cultivated gar- dens ; but the first aspect of the town is by no means prepossessing. The Sabato is crossed by the Ponte 8. Maria degli Angeli, and several mill- streams are passed before we enter 10 m. Benevento (16,000 Inhab.), the capital of a small territory of 4b sq. m., which, though in the heart of the province of Principato Ultra, has ROUTE 146. — BENEVENTO. 327 been for 8 cent, a possession of the Papal See. Founded, according to tra- dition, by Diomedes, or by Auson, the son of Ulysses and Circe, it was origi- nally called Maleventum, but the name appears to have been changed to Bene- ventum when it was made a Roman colony, 15. c. 268, In its neighbourhood Pyrrhus was defeated by the Consul M. Curius, and the Carthaginian general Hanno twice routed. In the 6th centy. Benevento was the first state which as- sumed the rank of a Lombard duchy, and it gradually increased until it compre- hended half the present kingdom of Naples. In the 11th centy. it was granted to Leo IX. by the Emperor Henry III., in exchange for the pro- vince of Bamberg, and, although at various times temporarily transferred to other masters, it has always returned to the Holy See. Napoleon conferred the title of Duke of Benevento on Talley- rand, with an appropriation of a 1 5th part of its revenues. The city is built on the slopes of a hill, overlooking the valley of the Calore on the N., and that of the Sabbato on the S., in a position which, though agreeable, is subject to a damp and uncertain climate. It is 2 m. in circuit, is surrounded by walls and has 8 gates. The Inn is small and indifferent, but the fare and reception met with by Horace must console the traveller for the slow march of im- provement: — Tendimus hinc recta Beneventum, ubi sedulus hospes Paene arsit, macros dum turdos versat in igne. The principal streets, although narrow and steep, contain several fine buildings, among which are the mansions of a few ancient families who still make it their abode. Benevento was an episcopal see in the earliest ages of the church, its first bishop being St. Potimus, said to have been a disciple of St. Peter, a.d. 44. It was made an archbishopric in the 10th cent, by John XIII. The Arch of Trajan, erected in ho- nour of the Emperor by the senate, a.d. 113, is now used as one of the city gates, under the name of Porta Aurea. This arch and that of Ancona are the finest now existing. It is a single arch of white marble with Corinthian co- lumns, raised on high pedestals, and covered with rich bas-reliefs represent- ing the achievements of the Emperor in the wars on the Danube. The apotheosis of Trajan is considered as one of the finest sculptures of this class which Ro- man art has handed down to us. In the yard of the Delegate’s palace are several antiquities, among which a beautiful bas-relief representing the Rape of the Sabines, and a torso of basalt supposed to be a portion of a statue of Apollo. Remains of the amphitheatre, called I Grottoni di Mappa , portions of the city walls, foundations of baths and of other public edifices, are still traceable. The Cathedral is a fine specimen of Lombardo-Saracenic architecture, and an interesting memorial of the ancient fame of the city, as the capital of a duchy. In front of it is a small Egyp- tian obelisk of red granite, covered with hieroglyphics. Fragments of an- other are preserved in the archbishop’s palace. In the walls of the campanile is a bas-relief in Greek marble, repre- senting the Calydonian boar adorned for sacrifice. The boar still figures in the armorial bearings of Benevento. The central door of the cathedral is of bronze, whh bas-reliefs illustrative of the New Testament. It is said to have been cast at Byzantium, in 1150. The interior of the edifice is ornamented with ancient columns — 54 of Parian marble, 4 of grey granite, and 2 of verde antique. The tribunes on the sides of the high-altar are also deco- rated with ancient marbles. The Ch. of Santa Sofia contains 6 columns of oriental granite. The cloisters of the suppressed monastery attached to it, which once rivalled Monte Casino in the riches of its ar- chives, have a peristyle of 47 columns in the Lombard style. The well in the centre is covered with the capital of an Ionic column. The Ch. of the SS. Annunziata contains rich columns and marbles, the spoils doubtless of ancient buildings. The Citadel is outside the gates. It was built by Guglielmo Bilotta, the governor, in the 12th cent. In more t ' 328 ROUTE 146 . — BENEVENTO, recent times it has been used as the residence of the Delegate. Beyond the walls, towards the W.. is the Ponte Lebroso, over which the Via Appia passed on entering the city. It is constructed without mortar; tra- dition has placed near it the temporary grave of Manfred. Not far from it is an ancient building, supposed to be a cryptoporticus, and now called Santi Quaranta. The Galore is crossed by a handsome bridge of six arches, built by Pius VI., from the designs of Vanvitelli. The ascent from this to the height of Bel- vedere commands some beautiful views of the valleys of the Sabato and Galore. On the N. side of the river are some remains of the Temple of Hercules, dedicated in the early age of Chris- tianity to S. Marciano. Here was signed the treaty of 1156, by which our countryman Adrian IV. invested Wil- liam the Bad with the kingdom of Sicily, the duchy of Apulia, the princi- pality of Capua, and the territory of the Marca, within a year after ho had con- ferred the imperial crown on Frederick Barbarossa. But the memory of a far more in- teresting historical event is connected with this bank of the Calore — the Battle of Benevento, fought February 26, 1266, in which Manfred was de- feated by Charles I. of Anjou. The personal character of Manfred, his chivalrous courage, his magnanimity, his mental accomplishments, the per- secutions by which he was hunted down as a public enemy, his high station, both as the son of Frederick II. and as the champion of the Ghibeline party, all combine to give a romantic interest to his eventful career. As soon as Charles entered the kingdom, Manfred endea- voured to compromise hostilities by * negotiation ; but Charles dismissed the ambassadors with the haughty message which Giovanni Villani has recorded : Alles et dit moi a le Sultarn de Locere o je metrcii lui en enfers, o il metra moi en paradis. The invading army crossed without opposition the Garigliano at Ceprano, which the treachery of the Count of Caserta had left unguarded, seized the fortress of Rocca d’Arce, and having carried by storm the Castle of S. Germano, advanced by rapid marches to Benevento, where Manfred had col- lected his forces. The French army was drawn up on the plain of Grandella on the N. bank of the Calore. Manfred, rejecting the advantages of his position within the ramparts of Benevento, and unwilling to await the arrival of the Ghibeline allies, who were marching to his assistance, determined on an im- mediate attack ; although the army of Charles was already suffering from a deficiency of supplies, and by a few days’ delay would have been reduced to the utmost necessities. Manfred led his forces across the river. At the first charge his German troops threw the van of the French into confusion. The Saracenic archers crossed the river, and made the most fearful slaughter. The French cavalry were now brought into the field, and the battle soon became general. The Saracens were driven back ; but the German cavalry sup- ported them with such valour that the issue of the battle became doubtful. Manfred ordered his reserve of 1400 cavalry, which had not yet been en- gaged, to support the Germans by a charge upon the enemy, who, already fatigued, would inevitably have been defeated by their charge. At this cri- tical moment, the Barons of Apulia, the Counts of Caserta and Aeerra, and others, deserted him, and left the field with the greater part of the reserve. Manfred at once determined to perish in the battle rather than survive the loss of a kingdom. As he placed his helmet on his head, the silver eagle which formed its crest fell upon his saddle. “ Hoc est signum Dei,” he ex- claimed. “ I had fastened it on with my own hands, and it is no accident which has detached it.” He rushed into the thickest of the battle, without any badge to distinguish him ; but his troops were already routed, and, unable to arrest their flight, Manfred fell as became the scion of an heroic race. His body was undiscovered for 3 days, when some attendants recognised it. It was carried on an ass before Charles, who assembled the barons, his prisoners, to attest its identity. The bitter grief ROUTE 147. — AVELLINO TO SALERNO. 329 of Count Giordano Lancia is touchingly narrated by the contemporary historians. When the aged count beheld the body, he threw himself upon it with a loud shriek, covered it with kisses and tears, and cried out, Ohime , ohime, Signor mio, Signor buono , Signor savio, chi ti ha cosz crudelmente tolto la vita ? The French cavaliers were so much affected by the scene that they demanded the honours of a funeral for the royal corpse. Charles refused, on the ground of the ex- communication, but allowed the body to be buried in a pit at the foot of the bridge of Benevento, where every soldier of the French army placed a stone upon it. But the Archbishop of Cosenza, Bartolommeo Pignatelli, by virtue of an order from Clement IV., had the body taken up and thrown over the frontier of the kingdom, on the banks of the Rio Verde ; an event commemo- rated by Dante, who describes also the personal appearance of Manfred: — Biondo era e bello e di gentile aspetto. OrriML faron li peccati miei ; Ma la bonta iafmita ba si gran braccia, Che prende cio che si rivolve a lei. Se T pastor di Cosenza ch' alia caccia Di me fu messo per Clemente, allora Avesse in Dio ben letta questa faccia, L’ ossa del corpo mio sarieno ancora In co’ del ponte, presso a Benevento, Sotto la guardia della grave mora : Or le bagna la pioggia, e mnove T vento Di fuor del regno, quasi lungo T Yerde, Ove le trasmuto a lume spento. Purg. in. 124. Manfred's favourite dress was green. His chief happiness was in the society of poets and troubadours. Benevento figures in the history of Italian superstition ; and traditions are current of its walnut-tree, situated in some place mysteriously unknown to mortals. Round this tree the witches of Southern Italy were believed to hold their sabbaths. The Calore and the Sabato unite be- low Benevento, and under the name of Calore join the Volturno near Cam- pagnano (Rte. 146). A bridle-path of 30 m. over steep hills and through the beds of numerous torrents leads from Benevento through Casalbore to Troia (Rte. 148). ROUTE 147. AVELLINO TO SALERNO, 20 m. This route passes through one of the beautiful districts in Southern Italy. Leaving Avellino, the road ascends for a short distance one of the branches of the Sabato, through a long and narrow valley, shut in by broken moun- tains of considerable height, clothed with timber to their very summit. It passes through the villages of Bellizzi, \ Contrada, and Celsi, and by the long de- scent of Laura reaches the valley of Montuoro. Proceeding hence through several other villages the road brings us to 11m. Mercado (700 Inhab.), where it joins the road — I. From Avellino, 13^ m., passing at the 1st m. through Atripalda (5500 Inhab.), known for its iron-foundries and paper-mills, and fol- lowing the course of the Sabato ; at the 6th m,, through the numerous vil- lages forming the commune of Serino (10,000 Inhab.), supposed to have arisen from the ruins of the ancient Sabatia , near which were the sources of the Julian Aqueduct which extended to Naples aud Misenum. 3 m. from Serino, higher up the side of Mt. Ter- minio, is Volturara , the birthplace of Alessandro de Meo, the author of the ‘ Annali del Regno di Napoli della Mezzana Eta near which is the Lake of Dragonli, 2 m. in circuit. At the 8th m. through Solofra, containing a Ch. with some good paintings by Guarini, a painter of considerable merit, but not known beyond the limits of this his na- tive place. Proceeding from Mercato to Salerno, 330 EOUTE 148. — NAPLES TO FOGGIA. we pass through Accigliano and S. Seve- rino, picturesquely situated at the foot of a hill, crowned with the ruins of its mediaeval castle, which still retains suf- ficient evidence of its strength and size. The ch. contains the tombs of Tom- maso Sanseverino, high-constable in 1353, and of many of his successors, who bore the title of Princes of Salerno. From S. Severino branch off two roads — on the rt, to Nocera 6 and 7 m. on, passing through S. Giorgio ; the second through Materdomini (p. 262). Con- tinuing from S. Severino is 3 m. Baronissi (3000 Inhab.), where Fra Diavolo was captured and exe- cuted. About 5 m. E. of Baronissi is Giffoni, which is of considerable geo- logical interest, the limestone rocks which compose the hills around con- taining fossil fishes of the age of our English lias and inferior oolite. Here the road divides : one branch ascending the hills on the rt., which command a beautiful view of the whole valley and the distant sea ; the other, following the rt. bank of the Irno, passes through Acquamelci, where Queen Margaret, widow of Charles III. and mother of Ladislaus and Joanna II., sought refuge from the plague and died in 1412; and proceeds close by the large cotton-mills and other manufactories erected within the last 30 years on the Irno ; the other through Ajello. The two roads join again 14 m. before they reach 6 in. Salerno (p. 265). ROUTE 148. NAPLES TO FOGGIA, BARI, TARANTO, LECCE, AND OTRANTO, WITH EX- CURSIONS. Naples to Marigliano .... [An extra post charged on leaving Naples, for the royal post.] Marigliano to Cardinale . . . Cardinale to Avellino . . . [An extra horse for every pair both ways.] Avellino to Dentecane .... [An extra horse for every pair both ways.] Dentecane to Grottaminarda [An extra horse for every pair, but not vice versa.] Grottaminarda to Ariano . . . [An extra horse for every pair, but not vice versa .] Ariano to Montaguto .... Montaguto to Ponte di Bovino . Ponte di Bovino to Pozzo d’Al- bero Pozzo d’Albero to Foggia . . . Foggia to Carapelle Carapelle to Cerignola . . . . Cerignola to Canosa . . . . Canosa.to Barletta Barletta to Bisceglie .... Bisceglie to Giovenazzo . . Giovenazzo to Bari Bari to Casamassima . . . . Casamassima to Gioia .... Gioia to S. Basile S. Basile to Massafra . . . . Massafra to Taranto . . . . Taranto to Monteparano • . . Monteparano to Manduria . Manduria to S. Pangrazio. . S. Pangrazio to Campi . . . Campi to Lecce ...... Lecce to Martano . . . . . Martano to Otranto Posts. 4 1 n i i i i n i 4 i i i i i i 14 i i i 35 ^ The malleposte (yettura cor Her a') leaves Naples every Tuesday, Thurs- day, and Saturday at midnight, and ROUTE 148. — NAPLES TO FOGGIA. goes as far as Lecce : time employed, 50 hours. The cost of a place dn it is 15 ducats and 3 carlini. The vetturini employ 8 days from Naples to Lecce, and usually stop for the night at Avel- lino, Ariano, Foggia, Barletta or Andria, Bari, Taranto, Manduria. The price of a carriage with 4 horses averages from 48 to 60 ducats. The road, which is called the Strada Consolare di Puglia, is excellent, but hilly between Cardinale and Montaguto. It leaves Naples by the Porta Capuana and Poggio Reale, passes under the hill of La Madonna del Pianto and of the Campo Santo, and proceeds through Pomigliano d’ Arco , Cistema, and other villages to 1^ m. Mariglw.no, supposed to have derived its name from a villa of Marius called the Marianum. At the 13th m. we pass through Cimitile, from which Nola is less than 1 m. distant, and at the 14th m. through Gallo. Cimitile is full of interest to the archaeologist for its early ecclesiastical remains. Several of the churches are rich in details, and have subterranean crypts, catacombs, chapels, and mediseval inscriptions in perfect preservation. At the 16th m. we pass on the 1. the ruined castle of Avella, marking the site of the Maliferce Abellce of Virgil, a city founded by one of the Greek colonies from Chalcis, and of which there are considerable vestiges. It was among these remains that the long inscription in the Oscan language, now in the museum of the Seminary at Nola, was found. The modern Avella (5000 Inhab.) is a thriving place ; 1 m. from it is the Grotta degli Sportiglioni, a large cavern in the mountain. Pass- ing through Baiano we reach lj m. Cardrnale, a hamlet at the foot of the mountains, with a miserable Inn. Through a valley planted in the lower part with vineyards and fil- berts, and in the upper covered with chesnut forests, the road gradually as- cends to 1 m. Mugnano (4000 Inhab.), locally celebrated for its shrine of S. Philo- mena. The long and steep ascent of Monteforte begins here, but the traveller is rewarded by the magnificent views 331 which these mountains command over the plains of the Terra di Lavoro. 4 m. Monteforte (4500 Inhab.), on the side of a mountain on which frown the ruins of its once strong Castle, still a picturesque object. It was the pro- perty of the De Montfort family, and for some time the residence of Guy de Montfort, who murdered Prince Henry of England in the Cathedral of Viterbo. The revolution of 1820 broke out in this village. [After passing Monteforte, a road 1 m. long leads on the 1. to Mercoglio.no from which a very hilly path leads to the Sanctuary of Monte Vergine, perched near the summit of the moun- tain. Good horses for the ascent can be had at Mercogliano. Monte Yer- gine, one of the three great mediaeval monasteries still preserved near Naples, was founded in 1119 by St. Wil- liam of Vercelli on the ruins of a temple of Cybele. The ch. contains a miraculous image of the Virgin, which is in great veneration in S. Italy : it was presented by Catherine of Valois, who is buried in the ch. with her son Louis of Taranto, the 2nd husband of Joanna I. Their effigies in the cos- tume of the 14th cent, are placed on a Roman sarcophagus. On the 1. side of the high-altar is the chapel and tomb which Manfred had erected for himself, and which, after his defeat and death, were given by Charles of Anjou to one of his French followers ; an event re- corded by a quaint Latin inscription. In the monastery there is a small collec- tion of inscriptions found near the spot. A path leads to the summit of the mountain, which commands an exten- sive view from the Bay of Naples to the borders of the Apulian plain. The Abbot, who is a Bishop, and the more aged monks reside at Loreto or the Ospizio, a large octagonal building erected near Mercogliano in the last cent, from the design of Vanvitelli. Here are preserved the Archives, which have been declared a branch of the Archivio Generate at Naples, and contain upwards of 18,000 parchment rolls, besides many Diplomas, 300 Papal bulls, and more than 200 MSS. relating to the mediseval history of Italy. The 332 ROUTE 148. — LAKE OF AMSANCTUS. collection, which begins with a diploma of the 9th cent., is bound in several vols. with an index. The oldest G reek parchment, of which there are many, dates from 1179. During the Festa of the Madonna, on the day of the Pentecost (p. 89), the roads from Avellino and from Naples are crowded with pilgrims and visitors, dressed in holiday cos- tume, who for 3 days give themselves up to the enjoyment of this excursion.] The road descends from Monteforte into the valley of Avellino, which is surrounded by well-wooded hills and thickly planted with filbert-trees. Pliny tells us that in his time the hazel-nut flourished throughout this district, and that it derived its name Avellana from the town round which it was cultivated, but it is doubtful if the town in question may not be one bearing a nearly similar name in Asia Minor : — Ut in Avellanis et ipso nucurn genere, quas antea Abellinas patrio nomine vocabant. 1^ Avellino (23,000 Inhab. — Inns ; Hotel de France , opposite the Inten- denza, fair ; La Posta, and several others, dirty), the capital of the pro- vince of Principato Ulteriore and the see of a bishop, is approached by a line of poplars forming a straight avenue 1 in. in length. There are some good buildings. The custom-house was once the baronial mansion of the Carac- ciolo family, a branch of which derives from the city the title of prince. It retains the name, but not the situation, of ancient Abellinum, the ruins of which are at Airipalda, 2 m. off, on the rt. bank of the Sabato (Rte. 147). From Avellino there are — 1st, a road to Salerno (Rte. 147); 2nd, a road to Montesarchio and thence to Benevento (Rte. 147); 3rd, a road to S. Angelo de’ Lombardi, and thence a via naturale to Melfi (Rte. 152). A hilly but very beautiful road leads along the 1. bank of the Sabato, which it crosses about 6 m. from Avellino. It passes soon after Pratolaat the 34th m., and leaving on the rt. Montemiletto, a town with a feudal castle of the Tocco family, descends to — lg Dentecane, a village formerly re- markable for its breed of white swine. A road on the L leads to Montefusco (3000 Inhab.), on the summit of a moun- tain, near which some beds of lignite have been discovered. After crossing the Calore, a road of 1 m. leads on the rt. to Mirabella (5700 Inhab.), passing close by a place called Le Grotte , where some considerable ruins mark the site of JEclanum, a city of Samnium, in the territory of the Hirpini, on the Via Appia, 15 m. from Beneventum. iEclanum was taken and plundered by Sylla during the Social War. It was a flourishing place under the Empire, but was destroyed a.d. 662 by Constans II. in his wars with the Lombards. Many statues and coins have been found among its ruins. Grottaminarda (3500 Inhab. — Inn : La Posta , very indifferent), situated on a rising ground in the midst of vine- yards and corn-fields. EXCURSION TO THE LAKE OF AMSANCTUS. This excursion is easily made from Grottaminarda in a light conveyance of the country or on horseback, and will take about 4 hours. It can also be made by leaving the road after crossing the Calore, and passing through Mirabella, rejoining the high road, on the return, at Grottaminarda. A country road of 7 m. leads from the latter place to Amsa.vctus, which is now known by the local name of Le Mofete. The two small lakes are in a wooded valley between limestone hills, about 2 m. S.E. of Frigento (3000 Inhab.), a town built on the summit of a high hill. The largest lake is 160 ft. in circumference, and 6 or 7 in depth. Though the soil is highly charged with carbonic acid gas, and hot, the temperature of the lake is little above that of the surrounding atmos- phere. The position of the lake in a deep crater-like valley corresponds with Virgil’s description: ROUTE 148. — LAKE OF AMSANCTUS ARIANO. 333 Est locus, Italiaa in medio sub montibus altis, Nobilis, et fama multis memoratus in oris, Amsancti valles ; densis hunc.frondibus atrum Urget utrinque latus nemoris, medioque fra- gosus Dat sonitum saxis et torto vortice torrens. Hie speens horrendum, et ssevi spiracula Ditis Monstrantur ; ruptoque ingens Acheron te vorago Pestiferas aperit fauces ; queis condita Erinnys, Invisum numen, terras coelumque levabat. Mn. Yir. 563-71. We may add a passage of Cicero, which fixes the locality of the lake in the ter- ritory of the Hirpini, a fact overlooked by the Roman antiquaries, who have identified Virgil’s description with the Lake of Cutilice near Rieti (Rte. 142): Quid enirh ? non vidernus, quam sint varia terrarum genera ; ex quibus et mortifera queedam pars est ; utet Amsancti in Hir- pinis, et in Asia Plutonia, quee videmus ? — T)e Div. I. 3G. Dr. Daubeny, who visited the spot in 1834, found the gas collected from one of the pools to consist of carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen, and a small residuary quantity of air con- taining about 16 per cent, of oxygen and 84 of nitrogen. “ The quantity of mephitic vapour,” says Dr. Daubeny, “ which proceeded from the lake was such as to oblige us (the wind being in the north) to take a circuit towards the east, in order not to meet the noxious blast; instances not unfrequently oc- curring of animals, and even men, who have imprudently ascended the ravine, being suffocated by a sudden gust of air wafted from the lake. This is the origin of the fable of the Vado Mortale, a par- ticular spot in the course of the rivulet that flows from the lake, which it is said cannot be forded without death, and which has been described as having on its borders an accumulation of the whitened bones of the various animals that had perished there. No bones ex- isted in the valley at the time I visited it, excepting of some birds, who, in crossing the valley, had been arrested on the wing by the noxious effluvia, as at the Lake of Avernus of old ; neither even close to the lake, where the evolu- tion of gas is most abundant, is there any point at all times unapproachable, for we ourselves were able to reach its edge on the side from whence the wind blew. From the quantity of gas which is con- tinually escaping, it appears to be throughout in a state of violent ebulli- tion, but its temperature little, if at all, exceeded that of the surrounding atmos- phere. The colour of the water is dark and muddy, from the quantity of sedi- ment projected towards the surface, owing to the constant agitation into which the pool is thrown by the gas that rises up through it; its taste strongly bespeaks the presence of alum, which is said to render it efficacious in the cure of certain diseases of cattle. One of the guides who approached its edge filled a bottle with the water, but to have col- lected the gas itself would have been a perilous attempt. I can only infer, there- fore, that it resembles that which issued in smaller quantity from a more in- considerable pool within 100 yards of the spot, and which consisted mainly of carbonic acid gas. The smell, how- ever, plainly indicated that sulphuretted hydrogen was likewise emitted at the former vent; and the consequences of the long-continued action of this gas upon the constituents of the contiguous rock was not one of the least interest- ing or instructive parts of the pheno- mena presented in this locality.” On leaving Grottaminarda we cross the Ufita, and obtain on the rt. an occa- sional glimpse of Trevico (2500 Inhab.), 9 m. off, on the hills which bound that stream on the E.S.E. It preserves the name and occupies the site of Trivicus, one of the stages of Horace’s Journey to Brundusium. Incipit ex illo ( Benevento ) montes Appulia notos Ostentare mihi, quos torret Atabulus : et quos Nunquam erepsenrus, nisi nos vicina Trivici Villa recepisset, lacrymoso non sine fumo ; Udos cum foliis ramos urente camino. Sat. i. v. 77-81. The next stage, which he mentions as bearing a name not to be pronounced in verse, is supposed to have been the Equo- tuticus of the Itineraries, but all attempts to define its position have failed. A long and steep ascent from the banks of the Ufita brings us to 1 m. Ariano (including the sur- rounding communes 15,000 Inhab. — Inn: La Posta, tolerable), the chief town of a district, and the seat of a 334 ROUTE 148 . — ARIANO— ASCOLI. bishop, situated on a hill of tertiary limestone, 2800 ft. above the sea, be- tween the head waters of the Calore and Cervaro. It is the second resting place of the vetturini from Naples. It has suffered greatly from earthquakes. Roger held a parliament here in 1140. It was stormed and plundered by the Duke de Guise and the Neapolitan mob in 1648. The S. declivity of the hill on which the city is built is hollowed out into grottoes, in which large numbers of the lower orders live. The beauty of the women of Ariano is the theme of every traveller that has visited it. On leaving Ariano, a long and steep descent leads into the Valle di Bovino, a narrow defile watered by the Cervaro, inaccessible except at its two extremities. It was formerly notorious as the favourite haunt of the brigands of Capitanata. At the entrance of the valley we leave, perched on the summit of high hills, on the rt. Savignano, and on the 1. Greet , the first towns in the province of ^PM^pitanata, the latter being an Albanian , J-^tlement. Following the 1. bank of the Cervaro, we reach lj Montag uto, the post-station, be- low the village of the same name, and opposite the village of Panni, both on the summit of high mountains. Hence, following close to the 1. bank of the river, we arrive at Ponte di Bovino, a solitary post-sta- tion, at the 72nd m. from Naples, from whence [I. A road of 3 m. ascends to Bovino (6500 Inhab.), the chief town of a dis- trict, and the see of a bishop, on a high hill. The inscriptions, coins, and other remains found near it, have led to the supposition that there was on the same spot an ancient town called Vi- binum or Bovinum. Bovino enjoys the reputation of being the nursery of the brigands of this part of Italy; the Var- darellis, whose name was so much dreaded at the beginning of the present cent., were natives of the city. Bovino gives a ducal title to the head of the Guevara family, one of the wealthiest in the kingdom. II. A road of 12 m. leads on the rt. to Ascoli, on a rising on the border of the Apulian plain. It nearly occupies the site and retains the name of Ascu- lum Apulum, situated on a branch of the Via Appia, which led from Bene- ventum to Canusium. A great battle between Pyrrhus and the Romans was fought in its neighbourhood b.c. 269. Considerable remains of the ancient city are still visible without the modern walls. From Ascoli a via naturale of 18 m., crossing the Ofanto, leads to Melfi (Rte. 151). The distance from the bridge of Bovino to Melfi may be shortened by following a turn on the rt., by a via naturale, practicable in dry weather, 5 m. before reaching Ascoli, and proceeding below the village of Candela to the Ofanto. HI. A road of 24 m. proceeds on the rt. direct to Cerignola. through Castel- luccio de ’ Sauri , Ordona, and Orta : a group of houses near Ordona, on a rising ground, are the remains of Herdonia, a city on a ranch of the Via Appia. Obscura incultis Herdonia misit ab agris. Sil. Ital. viii. 569. Hannibal, after defeating in its neigh- bourhood two Roman armies — the 1st b.c. 212, under Fulvius Flaccus, and the 2nd b.c. 210, under Fulvius Centumulus — destroyed the city and removed its inhabitants to Metapontum and Thurii/] We leave the mountains at Ponte di Bovino, and enter upon the great plain or Tavoliere di Puglia by a road as de- solate as those over the Campagna of Rome. Crossing the plain of Giardinetto, from which Troia is seen in the distance on the 1., and leaving on the rt. a large building called Torre Guevara, and be- longing to the Dukes of Bovino, a short but steep ascent brings us to 1 Pozzo d’Albero, a solitary post- station. The vast and monotonous plain, which now surrounds us, is only relieved at intervals by corn-fields, the greater part of the surface being covered with the wild caper, the wild pear, and the ferula, the stalks of which are used for making hurdles and baskets. This plain is the winter pasturage of the Neapolitan shepherds. The arrangement of the winter and summer pasturages, consti- tuting a system which exists in the same extent nowhere out of Italy, has ROUTE 148. — FOGGIA. 335 been described in Introd. § 9. In winter and in spring the plain is en- tirely covered with cattle, presenting a very singular and striking scene, which is scarcely exceeded in interest by the appearance of the line of march during the migrations into the Abruzzi at the end of May. Whole families of shep- herds, and ..very often the proprietors likewise, accompany their flocks. The cattle are protected by the fine white Abruzzi dogs, which are very large and fierce, and resemble in some respects the Newfoundland breed. Among the numerous dishes made with milk may be mentioned the Giuncata, as favourite a dish in Apulia as the Ricotta of the Campagna of Rome, and little inferior to the Junket of Devonshire. The Tavoliere is about 80 m. long and 30 broad ; it belongs to the Crown, with the exception of a few small portions, and is entirely laid out in pasture. The recent deposits of which this plain is composed indicate that, at a comparatively recent period, it was covered b}^ the sea, form- ing a gulf surrounded on the W., the S., and the S.E. by the range of the Apennines, having on the N.E. the im- posing mass of Mons Garganus, which must then have formed an island. 1 Foggia (24,000 Inhab. — Inns numerous : the best are Grande Albergo di Faiella, near the theatre, and Albergo Corsini in the street S. Antonio), a well- built city, and one of the most populous and richest towns in the kingdom, is the capital of the province of Capitanata, a name derived from Catapan , the title of the viceroys appointed by the Eastern emperors to govern Apulia. It is sup- posed to have sprung from the ruins of Arpi or Argyripa, an important city, traces of whose walls can still be seen at a spot called Arpi, 4 m. N. of the modern town. Arpi opened its gates to Hannibal after the battle of Cannse, but b.c. 213 was surrendered by the in- habitants to Fabius Maximus. Virgil commemorates it as having been founded by Diomedes : — Vidimus, o cives, Diomedem Argivaque castra, Atque, iter emensi, casus superavimus omnes ; Contigimusque manum qua concidit Ilia tellus. Ille urbem Argyripam, patriae cognomine genti 3 , Victor Gargani condebat Iapygis arvis. xi. 243. Some of the streets of the city are large, and contain some handsome houses and good shops. There is a large theatre, a new Campo Santo, a public library, and a promeuade. The principal ch., originally Gothic, and enriched by Count Roger, and by successive Norman princes, was de- stroyed by an earthquake in 1731, when the upper part of it was rebuilt in a different style. Manfred was crowned in it in 1258. In 1797 Francis I., then Duke of Calabria, having been married in it to his first wife, Maria Clementina of Austria, the ch. was dignified with the title of Cappella Palatina. It has a local celebrity for a miraculous image of the Virgin, presented to it by Count Roger. Foggia was one of the favourite re- sidences of the Emperor Frederick II., the gateway of whose palace still exists. His third wife, Isabella of England, the daughter of King John, died in it. He also constructed a famous well, still called Ii Pozzo dell ' Imperatore. Und^- ^ the city walls his son Manfred defeat: the legate of Alexander IV., and conf^'' pelled him to sue for peace. Charles I. and his son Philip died in the fortified palace which he erected in the city. Ferdinand I. of Aragon convened at Foggia the great parliament of barons and prelates to arrange the crusade against the Turks after their occupation of Otranto. One of the principal fairs of the kingdom is held at Foggia in the month of May. Four or five days may be pleasantly spent at Foggia in the early spring, and the following interesting excursions made from it : — EXCURSIONS TO TROIA, LUCERA, SAN- SEVERO, MANFREDONIA, AND MONTE S. ANGELO. I. A road of 12 m. leads to Troia (5700 Inhab. ; Inn, small and indiffer- ent), an episcopal city, situated on a conical hill overlooking the plain. It was founded by one of the Greek Cata- 336 ROUTE 148. TROIA. — LUCERA , pans in the 1 1th centy., on the ruins of the ancient JEcge, which joined the Carthaginians after the battle ofCannoe, but was recovered by Fabius Maximus. The interior of the cathedral retains some traces of the architecture of the Lower Empire. Troia has been the scene of three great battles. The first in 1254, between the army of Innocent IV., commanded by the Cardinal di S. Eustachio, the papal legate, and Man- fred, whose victory was so complete that it is said to have induced the Pope to appeal to Charles of Anjou, and to have caused him shortly afterwards to die of grief. In the second battle, fought in 1441, on the plain between the city and Bovino, Alfonso I. in per- son defeated the army of Rene d’ An- jou, under Sforza and Sanseverino, and completed his victory by sacking Bic- cari, 4 m. N.W. of Troia. The third battle was fought upon the same plain in 1462, between Ferdinand I. of Aragon and the Duke of Anjou, who claimed the throne as the son and heir of Rene. Ferdinand commanded in person, and defeated the Angevine army with great loss. From Troia the road proceeds, 12 m. farther S.W., to the Taverna delle Tre Foniane ; from whence, when finished, it will pass by Casalbori and S. Giorgio della Molinara, and join the road of Campobasso near Ponte Lan- dolfo. II. Lucera (1 3,000 Inhab. — Inn: La Posta ), the see of a bishop, and of the tribunals of Capitanata, is 9 m. from Foggiaby a carriage road, on a steep and commanding eminence, overlooking the plain, and enjoying a pure and healthy atmosphere. It is surrounded by walls with 5 gateways. Lucera was one of the most ancient and important cities of Apulia, by the Greek tradition num- bered among the cities founded by Dio- med, though it would rather seem to have been an Oscan town. It first appears in history during the second Samnite war. Papirius Cursor be- sieged, and after an obstinate resist- ance took it in b.c. 320. It played an important part during the second Punic war. It was still flourishing in the 7th centy., when Paulus Diaconus enu- merated it among urbes satis opulentas ; hut was taken from the Lombards and destroyed by Constans II. in a.d. 663; after which it remained in ruins until restored in 1239 by Frederick II., as a residence for his Sicilian Saracens, part of whom were stationed here, and part at Nocera. Frederick gave the Saracens permission to enjoy free exer- cise of their religion ; the Christian inhabitants were compelled to reside outside the walls, where their ch., the Madonna della Spica, is still stand- ing. The emperor himself selected Lucera as his own residence, and con- structed a subterranean passage from the castle to the town. The old streets of Lucera are narrow, but the modern quarter has an imposing appearance. The Bishop’s Palace is considered the finest building in the province. The Cathedral was converted by the Sara- cens into a mosque ; it still preserves many traces of Moorish architecture on the exterior. The interior is Gothic, and has been little changed ; it contains 13 pillars of verde antique, found under the edifice, and supposed to have be- longed to an ancient Temple. The pulpit is ornamented with Greek mo- saics. The Castle , £ m. from the town, from which it is separated by a ditch and drawbridge, occupies the site of the ancient citadel ; but it must be almost entirely attributed to Frederick II., except the large square tower in the centre, which is regarded as a Roman work. Though in ruins, it is still an imposing pile, and scarcely surpassed in extent by any similar building in Italy. It appears to have been intended to contain a second city within its walls. Two of the towers are circular ; the largest is remarkable for the regularity of its masonry, and the smaller is used as a telegraph station. In the area there were formerly apartments for the sove- reign ; a mosque, and large cisterns to supply the garrison with water. Coins, portions of Saracenic armour, and several Roman inscriptions, &c., have been discovered at different times within the walls. Manfred, at the commencement of his career, when he incurred the dis- pleasure of the Pope for the overthrow ROUTtf 148. — SANSEVERO. 337 and death of Borrello d’Agnone, in 1254, was compelled to fly for safety to the Saracens at Lucera. He quit- ted Acerra at night, and with some followers reached Venosa, which he left the next night accompanied by a few attendants, among whom was Nicolo di Jamsilla, who has left an account of the journey. After his de- parture, a storm of rain came on which obscured the road, so that the party would have been lost in the wastes of Capitanata, if they had not been joined by some huntsmen of Frederick II. as guides. Drenched to the skin, Manfred found shelter at Palazzo d’Ascoli, a deserted hunting chateau of his father’s, still standing on the 1. bank of the Carapelle ; here they rested and dried their clothes before what the prince called a royal fire, the only thing at that time, says one of his historians, which remained to him of royalty. On the following morning they proceeded to Lucera. As they approached the castle, the enthusiasm of the Saracens was unbounded ; but the Governor Mar- chisio had possession of the keys, and was known to be opposed to Manfred. A Saracen soldier pointed out a sewer below the gate ; Manfred leapt from his horse, threw himself into the gutter, and was in the act of entering, when the garrison rushed upon the gate and burst it open by main force. They replaced Manfred on his horse, and led him into the city with every demonstra- tion of attachment. After the battle of Benevento, the widow and children of Manfred took refuge in the castle for a short time. In 1269 Charles expelled the few Saracens who survived the battle and were unwilling to embrace Chris- tianity, and converted their mosque into the Cathedral. 6 m fi om Lucera, and within view of the town, on the rt. of the road from S. Severo, are the ruins of Castel Flo- rentine , in which Frederick II. expired, Dec. 13, 1250, in the 56th year of his brilliant but turbulent career, after a reign of 31 years as Emperor, 38 as King of Germany, and 52 as King of the Two Sicilies. The Emperor, like his son Manfred, was a believer in astro- logy, and it is said that in consequence IS. Italy.] of a prediction that he should die in the Florentine territory, he never entered Florence, believing that the terms of the prophecy could only apply to the Tuscan capital. As soon, however, as he fell ill at Castel Fiorentino, he patiently submitted to his fate, and regarded his approaching death as the fulfilment of the prediction. The neighbourhood of Lucera still maintains the celebrity for its wool which it possessed in the days of Ho- race, — Te lanse prope nobilem Tonsae Luceriam, non citharse, decent. Hop.. Od. hi. xv. III. Sansevero (16,000 Inliab. Inn , tolerable), 15 m. from Foggia, is the chief place of a district. In late years it has become an important town, and its suburbs contain many good houses. In 1799 it was nearly ruined by the republican army under Gen. Duhesme, in revenge of the gallant resistance which it had offered to him. It was only spared from total destruction at the intercession of the women, who, after 3000 persons had been slaughtered, rushed among the French and implored them either to stay their hand, or com- plete the scene by sacrificing the children and wives of the few men who still sur- vived. The town has recovered from this calamity, and is now one of the most flourishing in Apulia. 6 m. N. of San- severo, at the W. extremity of Mount Gargano, is Apricena, the hunting castle of Frederick II., which is said to derive its name from the supper, apri ccena, which he gave upon the spot to the members of his hunt in 1225, after he had killed a wild boar of great size. From Sansevero a road of 11 m. traversing the plain in which the battle between the Normans and the army commanded by Leo IX. was fought, 18th June, 1053 (p. 324\ crosses the Fortore by the bridge of Civitate, and thence by a via naturale proceeds to Serracapriola, Chienti, and Termoli (Kte. 145). IV. A road of 18 m., through corn- fields and pasture-lands, leads over the plain of Puglia from Foggia to Man- fredonia, at the southern foot of Monte Q 338 ROUTE 148. — MANFREDONIA. Gargano. After crossing the Cande- laro, hy following a path on the 1., which shortens the distance, the tra- veller will have an opportunity of see- ing the ruined monastery of S. Leon- ardo, an establishment of the Teutonic order, founded in 1223 by Frederic II., and by Herman of Salza, grand master of the order. The ch. is toler- ably preserved, and its exterior ex- hibits a very elaborate example of the Saracenic style. 2 m. from Manfre- donia we pass on the rt. the Madonna di Siponto, ach. on the edge of a marsh, occupying the site of ancient Sipontum, one of the reputed colonies of Diomed. This ch., which was the ancient cathe- dral, is highly ornamented outside, with an elegant porch ; but it contains no- thing inside, except an ancient picture of the Virgin. Sipontum was called 'ZiyiziowTos by the Greeks, on account of the vast quantity of cuttle-fish which were found upon the shore. It was tolerably perfect in the 4th cent. ; but it was ruined during the Gothic inva- sion. Manfredonia (7500 Inhab. Inn, small but tolerable), an archiepiscopal see, has wide and regular streets, with large, though often unfinished houses. It is walled on all sides, and its port is commanded by a strong castle. The town was founded by Manfred in 1256, and built chiefly from the ruins of Sipontum. It was nearly destroyed by the Turks in 1620. Though subject to malaria, its inhabitants are character- ised by their industry and cleanliness. In the cathedral there is one of the largest bells in Italy, which Manfred caused to be cast for his new city. [From Manfredonia, a via naturale of 38 m., practicable for the light con- veyances of the country, leads along the sea-shore to Barletta. On leaving Manfredonia it passes on the rt. a brackish lake, called Pantano Salso, formed at the junction of the Candelaro and Cervaro rivers, crosses the Cara- pelle by a ferry, traverses the small village of Zapponeta , and skirts for several m. the Lago di Salpi, running along the narrow bank of sand which separates it from the Adriatic. On the S.W. shore of this lake are the ruins of the ancient Salapia, which, after being taken by Hannibal, was surrendered by one of its chiefs, Blattius, to Marcellas, with the loss of 1500 Numidian cavalry. After the death of Marcellus in an ambuscade, Hannibal tried in vain, by using his seal, to obtain admission into Salapia by fraud. The road skirts the Reali Saline, the largest salt-works in the kingdom. 2 m. inland is the vil- lage of Casaltrinita (4000 Inhab.), and 6 m, from Saline, and after crossing the Ofanto, proceeds to Barletta.] V. Manfredonia is the most conve- nient point from which to make an excursion to Monte Gargano, a group of mountains quite detached from the chain of the Apennines, and whose highest peak attains an elevation of 5120 ft. It contains extensive alabas- ter quarries, which have never been fully brought into use. It still retains a name familiar to the scholar, but has been stripped of its once dense forests of oak : aut Aquilonibus Querceta Gargani laborant, Et foliis viduantur orni. — Hor. Carm. n. 9. Garganum mugire putes nemus, aut mare Tuscum. Epist . ii. 1. 202. A road from Manfredonia, after pass- ing for the first 3 m. through a succes- sion of orange gardens, leads by a con- tinuous and steep ascent of 3 m. to Monte Santanyelo (12,000 Inhab.), on a lofty hill, forming one of the spurs of the Gargano, and containing a fine castle with ruined battlements, and many picturesque old houses. The whole group of the Gargano is often called Monte S. Angelo from this town, which is famous for its Sanctuary, de- dicated to the favourite saint of the Norman conquerors, St. Michael, who was seen here in 491, according to the legend, by S. Lorenzo, Archbishop of Sipontum. On the 8th of May, and for many days previously, the town and mountain are crowded with devotees, who come from every part of the king- dom to celebrate the festa of St. Michael. The endless varieties of costume, and the strange appearance of the mountain- eers, afford an ample field for the pencil of the artist. As they ascend the moun- KOUTE 148. MONTE SANTANGELO. 339 tain, bareheaded, each party joins in the hymn to the saint ; and the effect of their simple but pleasing melody increases the remarkable character of the scene. The cave where the vision took place is entered by an arch over which are inscribed the words, Hie locus est ter - ribilis, hcec est Domus I)ei. “ A wind- ing flight of above fifty steps, hewn in the rock,” says Mr. Craven, “ and por- tioned into divisions of eight to each, leads down to the sanctuary ; the vault and sides are faced with stone regularly cut, but large masses of rock intervene. The daylight is faintly admitted through occasional apertures, and gradually di- minishes as one descends ; above the last step, however, a long narrow fissure, apparently the work of nature, throws a dim but sufficient light on the interior of the holy crypt, and. at the same time opens to the eye a view of the monastery itself, seated on the impending rock at an immense height above, aud rearing its pinnacles in the outward blaze of day. . . The cave which was the scene of the miracle, and which is entered next, is low, but of considerable extent, branching out into various recesses on different levels, so that steps are fre- quent, and the surface is rugged, irre- gular, and very slippery, from the con- stant dripping of the vaults. ... A few glass lamps, suspended from the rock, which have replaced the silver ones of richer times, cast a faint glimmer of uncertain light, as insufficient to guide the stranger’s footsteps as it is service- able to the general effect of the scene. Three chapels, and the choir in par- ticular, are more illuminated. Of the former, the principal is dedicated to the patron saint, and contains his image, about half the size of life, be- dizened with silk drapery, flimsy tinsel, and flaxen curls ; the second is noted for a small cistern, called il Pozzillo, from which some most limpid and cool water is distributed in a little silver bucket to all the visitors ; the third chapel is sacred to the Madonna, and offers nothing remarkable.” On leaving Monte Santangelo we may return to Foggia by a road which leads along the mountain to S. Gio- vanni JRotondo (5000 Inhab.), and, descending into the plain, joins the road from Foggia to Manfredonia near the Candelaro. 4 m. E. of Monte Santangelo, on the slope of the Gargano to the sea-shore, is the village and tower of Mattinata , which nearly retains the name and is supposed to mark the site of the Mons Matinus, famous for its honey : Ego, apis Matinse More modoque, Grata carpentis thyma per laborem Plurimum, circa nemus uvidique Tiburis ripas, operosa parvus Carmina fingo. — H or. Od. rv. ii. The shore of Mattinata is also me- morable as the spot where Archytas of Tarentum was shipwrecked : Te roaris et terras numeroque carentis arenas Mensorem, cobibent, Archyta, Pulveris exigui prope littus parva Matinum Munera ; nec qiudquam tibi prodest Aerias tentasse domos, animoque rotundum Percurrisse polum, morituro. ****** At tu, nauta, vagse ne parce malignus arenae Ossibus et capiti inhumato Particulam dare. — Hor. Od. i. xxvnr. Some antiquaries, however, identify the Littus Matinum with Matino near Gallipoli (p. 354). Returning to the post-road and leav- ing Foggia for Bari, it traverses the plain of the pasturage, leaves on the rt., after crossing the Cervaro, the ch. of the Madonna dell’ Incoronata on the opposite bank, containing a miracu- lous picture of the Virgin, said to have been found in a tree near this spot, and, soon after crossing the Carapelle, reaches 1 Carapelle, a solitary post stat. On the rt. are seen Ordona and Ascoli, and farther S. Melfi, backed by the lofty cone of Monte Vulture. 1| Cerignola (16,000 Inhab. Inn: II Leone, indifferent), a well-built episcopal city, supposed to mark the site of Ceraunilia, stands on a rising ground, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country, which ap- Q 2 340 ROUTE 148. — CANOS A. pears like one vast corn-field without a tree to break its monotony. On the 28th April, 1503, Gonsalvo de Cordova gained near Cerignola a victory over the army of the Duke de Nemours, which established the supremacy of Ferdinand the Catholic, and reduced the kingdom of Naples to a Spanish province. The battle began late in the evening, contrary to the judgment of the Duke, who was hurried on by the impetuosity of his generals. In half an hour the French army was routed, with a loss of nearly 4000 men, among whom was the Duke de Nemours him- self. In the ch., on the E. of the city, is an inscription recording this victory. In the principal street of Cerignola is a Roman milliarium, recording that Trajan made the road from Beneventum to Brundusium at his own cost. The distance marked upon it is lxxxi from Brundusium. After leaving Cerignola, before we reach the 2nd m., the road divides; one branch on the 1. crosses the Ofanto near its mouth by a long bridge, and proceeds to Barletta, 18 m. The other crosses, after the 6th m., the Ofanto, the ancient Aufidus, the last river of any consequence between Manfredonia and Taranto, a coast-line of nearly 300 m. It divides the province of Capita- nata from that of Bari. This rapid river, celebrated for its connexion with the battle of Cannse, is otherwise com- memorated by the Roman poets : — Ricar qu& violens obst, repit Aufidus, Et quk pauper aquae Daunus agrestium Regnavit populorum, ex humili potens, Princeps Aiolium carmen ad Italos Reduxisse modos.— lion. Carm. in. xxx. Sic tauriformis volvitur Aufidus, Qui regna Dauni pra?fluit Appuli Quum saevit, horrendamque cultis Diluviem meditatur agris. IIor. Carm. rv. xiv. 2 m. after crossing the river we pass a gateway, sometimes called a triumphal arch, of ancient Canusium, and ascend to 1 Canosa (10,000 Inhab. Inn: Locanda del Leone , tolerable), situated on the slopes of a hill crowned with the ruins of a feudal castle. It occupies the site of ancient Canusium, mentioned by Horace in the journey to Brundu- sium : — sed panis longe pulcherrimus, ultra Callidus ut soleat humeris portare viator : Nam Canusi lapidosus, aquae non ditior urna: Qui locus a forti Diomede est conditus olim. Hor. Sat . i. v. 89. The traveller will have occasion to remark at Canosa the gritty quality of the bread noticed by Horace. Canusium gave hospitality to the remnants of the Roman army after their defeat at Cannse, and Hannibal never succeeded in making himself master of it. The Romans called the citizens of Canusium Bilingues, because, being largely engaged in the manufacture of woollen cloths, they spoke the Greek language of their ancestors and the Latin of their neighbours with whom they traded. The mule-drivers of the city were the most expert in Italy, and were always selected by Nero as his charioteers. The principal ch. of Ca- nosa, dedicated to S. Sabinus, is remark- able for its small clusters of cupolas resembling a Turkish mosque ; the in- terior contains an ancient pulpit and a sculptured episcopal chair in marble, some granite columns with Roman capi- tals, and six others of verde-antique, 18 ft. high. In a court adjoining the ch. is the Tomb of Bohemond, Prince of Antioch, the gallant son of Robert Guis- card, and one of the heroes pf Tasso : Ma T gran nemico mio tra queste squadre Gia riveder non posso ; e pur vi guato : Io dico Boemondo, il micidiale Distruggitor del sangue mio reale. Ger. Lib. nr. 63. It is a building of 12 sides, built of white marble, in the lower Greek style, with bronze doors covered with sculptures and inscriptions in Latin verse ; in the interior is the marble chest in which the body is deposited. It has never been ascertained whether the hero of Durazzo and Larissa died here, or at sea on his return from the first crusade. The inscription on these doors proves that his remains are here interred : — Gr.iscardi coniux, Aberarda, hac condi tur area; Si genitum quaeris, liunc Canusinum habet. ROUTE 148. — CANNiE. 341 This inscription is repeated on the tomb of his mother Aberarda at Venosa. His death took place in 1111. The principal antiquities of Camisium are the remains of a gateway on the side of the Ofanto, the ruins of a magnificent amphitheatre, and numerous tombs in its neighbourhood, in which a great many Vi ses, gold ornaments, and small bronzes have been found. The vases, only equalled in size by those of Ruvo, however, are of a coarser style of paint- ing than those of Nola. Numerous in- scriptions have also been found. Canosa suffered severely from the earthquake of August 14, 1851. [From Canosa a carriage road of 9 m. leads to Minervino (8000 Inhab.), situ- ated on the slope of low hills called Margie di Minervino, and supposed to mark the site of Lucus Minervce. It is surrounded by massive walls and towers, surmounted by a baronial castle. Mi- nervino gave the title of Count to Gio- vanni Pipino, who figures conspicuously in the history of Cola di Rienzo, and was executed at Altamura as a rebel in the reign of Joanna I. A road of 6 m. leads from Minervino to Spinazzola (6000 Inhab.), whence a via naturale of 18 in. to Gravina (Rte. 1 53). From Spinazzola we can proceed to Lavello, 12 m., and thence by a good road to Melfi (Rte. 151).] About 6 m. N. of Canosa, a few re- mains on the rt. bank of the Ofanto mark the site of Cann.e, ignobilis Apulice vicus ; but the precise locality of the great battle has been the subject of much question. Both Polybius and Livy tell us that the Carthaginians faced the N., with their 1. wing resting on the river, whilst the Romans faced the S., with their cavalry, forming the rt. wing, resting on the river and op- posing the 1. wing of the enemy : — In dexiro cornu, id erat jiumini propius, Romanos equites locant. . . . Gallos His- panosque equites prope ripam, lavo in cornu, adversus Romanum equitation . — Liv. xxii. 44-46. Livy adds that by this disposition the Carthaginians had behind them the Vulturnus, a wind which drove clouds of dust into the face of the Romans. Most of the local topo- graphers, followed by Arnold, have therefore placed the field of battle on the S. side of the river, which running nearly from S.W. to N.E., would cause the Romans to face the S., whilst lean- ing with their rt. wing on the river. But Swinburne and Yaudoncourt, fol- lowed by Niebuhr, comparing the posi- tion of the army with the previous movements made by the Roman Con- suls, place the scene of action on the N. side, at a spot nearly opposite the re- mains of Cannae, where the river, by a sudden turn southwards, would cause the Romans to face the S., whilst lean- ing with the rt. wing on its banks. This conclusion is supported by the fact that the Vulturnus is undoubtedly the modern Scirocco, which blows from the S.E. A small rivulet is supposed to be the Vergellus, over which, accord- ing to Floras, Hannibal erected a bridge of human bodies; and the name Pezza di Sangue, field of blood, given to a portion of the plain by the peasants, is brought as an additional traditional proof The latter name, however, may more likely have a less remote origin ; for in 1019 Cannes was the scene of a battle in which the Apulians, assisted by the Longobards, and led by the Norman Drengot, who had arrived in Italy 3 years before, endeavoured to throw off the yoke of the Eastern emperors. They were defeated by the imperial forces under the Catapan Bolanus, and with such effect that out of 250 Normans only 10 survived the battle. Drengot then offered his sword to the princes of Capua and Salerno, while Melo of Bari, the leader of the Apulians, appealed to Henry II., who marched an army against the Greeks. In 1083 Robert Guiscard besieged Cannae, which had rebelled against him during his absence in Greece, captured it after a siege of 2 months, and utterly destroyed it. From that time no attempt appears to have been made to re-occupy the site. In 1201 another battle was fought on the plains of Cannae between the Papal and imperial forces and the rebellious barons headed by the archbishop of Balermo, who had taken advantage of the infancy of Frederick II. to attempt to overthrow his authority. Innocent 342 ROUTE 148. — BARLETTA. — TRANI. III., however, determined to defend the dominions of the young emperor, and sent an army under Walter de Brienne against the insurgents, who were cut to pieces. On leaving Canosa, after a gentle ascent from which there is an extensive view, we leave the road to Andria on the rt., and proceed over a level country, partly covered with olive plantations and vineyards, to 1 J Barletta (23,000 Inhah. — Inn indifferent), a fine town, the capital of a district, and said to occupy the site of a Greek town called Bcirduli (?). It is delightfully situated on the sea-shore, contains many handsome houses, and is surrounded by walls and towers.' Barletta has a good harbour, partly formed and protected by a mole, and maintains a considerable com- merce with Greece and the Ionian Islands. The gateway leading to the harbour is of unusual magnitude and magnificence. The castle was formerly one of the three strongest fortresses of Italy. The principal cli. has a lofty steeple and an elegant fa£ade. A Latin inscription records the coronation of Ferdinand of Aragon within its walls. In the piazza near the ch. of S. Stefano is a colossal bronze statue 15 feet high, supposed to represent the Emperor Heraclius, or, according to others, Theo- dosius, and to have been wrecked on the coast during its passage in a Venetian galley, as an offering to the sanctuary of S. Angelo. There is a good theatre here. In 1259 Manfred held at Bar- letta the first tournament seen in this part of Europe, in honour of the visit of Baldwin II., the last Latin Emperor of Constantinople. During the contests of Louis XII. and Ferdinand the Catholic arising out of the Partition Treaty, Barletta was occupied by Gonsalvo de Cordova, who was besieged there in 1 502 by the Duke de Nemours. Both generals were unwilling to give battle, and the troops as well as the officers were soon weary of inaction. The cavalry of both armies was composed of the elite of a brave and chivalrous nobility ; and the French having offended the Italians who were in the Spanish ranks, it was deter- mined to decide the claim to superiority between French and Italians by tourna- ment. Thirteen cavaliers were chosen from each side. Among the French champions were Guy de la Mothe, Charles de Torgues, and Jacques de la Fontaine ; among the Italians were Ettore Fieramosca, Romanello daForli, and Fanfulla da Lodi, The Venetians, who then occupied Trani, and were con- sidered to be a neutral party, were ap- pointed to arrange the lists and appoint the judges. Prospero Colonna was ap- pointed second for the Italians, and Bayard, the “ chevalier sans peur et sans reproche,” for the French. The spot selected for the tournament was between Andria and Corato, near the place now called Epitaffio. At the first shock seven of the French champions were overthrown ; but the others de- fended themselves with such bravery, that after a combat of 6 hrs. the judges separated the combatants, and declared it a drawn battle. The road along the coast between Barletta and Bari, passing through vine- yards and olive and almond plantations, is one of the most pleasing on the E. coast of Italy; but its attractions are due more to the general air of civiliza- tion, and the high cultivation of the country, than to any remarkable fea- tures of natural beauty. The numerous conical towers or huts, called Specchie, which are seen in the vineyards, are constructed of the stones picked off the fields, to contain the implements of the husbandman, and afford him shelter in bad weather. On the rt. of the road are numerous towns, forming a long line communicating with each other by a road running parallel to the high post- road along the Marina (p. 345). 7 m. Trani (18,600 Tnliab. — Inns: Albergo di Dionisio, in the Largo S. Francesco, the best; Albergo della Stella , and Albergo del V Annunziata, both fair), the seat of an archbishop, and of the law courts of the province of Bari, is a well-built town, surrounded by crum- bling walls, partly built by Frederick II. The port has a circular harbour, with good quays. It was constructed by the Venetians during their short occu- pation of Trani at the end of the 15th, and repaired by Charles III. in the ROUTE 148. — MOLFETTA. 343 middle of the 18th centy. ; but it has become almost useless for any but small craft, by the accumulation of mud. Around it are numerous handsome houses. In the middle ages Trani car- ried on an extensive commerce with the East, and was one of the points of embarkation of the Crusaders. It was at Trani that Manfred received his bride Elena, daughter of the Despot of Epirus, on the 2nd of June, 1259. The Templars had an hospital in the town, to which belonged an elegant little ch. with the richest details, in one of the principal streets. The cathe- dral, built at one end of it on a point near the sea, is one of the finest me- diaeval monuments of Southern Italy, and resembles very much in style the tombs of the caliphs near Cairo. The steeple is more than 260 ft. high. The interior, which was light and beautiful, was sadly whitewashed and modernised by the archbishop in 1837. In the narrow streets near the cathedral there are still some most beautiful Gothic windows. Among the curiosi- ties of the city are 9 ancient milestones. There is a theatre. The vineyards of the neighbourhood produce a sweet wvine, the Moscato di Trani, held in great repute. The fig-trees are planted iu the fields in rows, and dressed ac- cording to the precept of Columella, like dwarfs and espaliers. According to the post tariff, the distance between Barletta and Trani is charged as one post ; but to persons proceeding S., without stopping at Trani, the post station is at Bisceglie. The road crosses the Ponte della Luna, of a lofty single arch. 1 m .Bisceglie (17,600 Inhab. — Inn: La Posta, tolerable), built on a pro- montory defended by fortifications, and surrounded by pretty villas and country houses. The high road passes through a suburb. The currants of Bisceglie are said to equal those of the Ionian Islands. During the crusades, Bisceglie had an hospital founded by Bohemond for pilgrims going to and arriving from the Holy Land. Some ruins of it still exist. Between this and Molfetta, on the rt. of the road, is an ancient ch. of Greek architecture, known as the Vigne di S. Giacomo, where a Benedictine monas- tery once existed. Near it is the sanctuary of Santa Maria de Martiri , built in 1161 by King William the Good. 6 m. Molfetta (2 1,600 Inhab. — Inn Albergo dello Lloyd, dirty), an episco- pal see, is beautifully situated on the shore, and contains some handsome houses, distinguished, like all the towns and cities on this coast, by the regu- larity of their masonry. In the 15th centy. the merchants entered into a treaty with those of Amalfi that the citizens of one place should be consi- dered citizens of the other. The castle was the prison of Otho, Duke of Bruns- wick, husband of Joanna I. after the death of the queen ; but he was released in 1384 by Charles Durazzo, after his rival, Louis of Anjou, had been carried off by plague. In 1529 the towrn was sacked by the French army under Lautrec. Linguiti, who introduced the modern system of treatment for the insane at Aversa, was born at Mol- fetta in 1774. The Austrian Lloyd’s steamers touch at Molfetta, and offer a convenient line for parties going to, or returning from Greece and Con- stantinople by Corfu and the Gulf of Lepanto. Travelling by post from Na- ples to Molfetta, and arriving so as to catch the Austrian Lloyd’s steamer at Molfetta, and the French steamer at the Piraeus, Constantinople may be reached from Naples on the morning of the 5th day. Travellers ought to arrange to sleep at Trani or Foggia, where there are the only good hotels on the line. Should the steamer reach Molfetta late in the evening, they should always try and proceed to Trani, only 9£ m. oft', for the night. One of the curiosities of this part of the kingdom is the Pulo di Molfetta, a nitre cavern, 1^ m. from the town : it is a circular cavity in the limestone, about 1400 ft. in circumference, and 112 deep. In the limestone strata are numerous oval caverns hollowed out in rows, forming in appearance a regular suc- cession of 5 tiers, resembling the boxes of a theatre. The nitre is found in these caverns and in fissures, and is a 344 ROUTE 148 . BARI. source of revenue to the Crown. The road passes through vineyards and olive- grounds to 3^ m. Giovinazzo, on the sea-shore, supposed to be the ancient Netium, or Natiolum, and remarkable for a large poor-house or Ospizio, founded by King Ferdinand I., and said to be capable of containing 2000 persons. At present upwards of 500 children are there maintained and instructed in the useful arts ; they are divided into 3 classes, proietti , mendici , and orfani. In a separate part of the establish- ment, children and youths condemned to imprisonment by the laws are similarly instructed with a view to reclaim them from their evil habits. m. Bari (27,300 Inhab. — Inns: Hotel de France, Grande Albergo di Gese, Albergo del Leone Bianco, all very fair), the capital of the province and the see of an archbishop, is situated on a small peninsula, and is in point of size and importance the second town of the continental portion of the kingdom. The new suburb is regularly built, and contains many good houses, a large palace of the Intendente, and a new thea- tre, next in size to that of S. Carlo at Na- ples. It has a convenient port formed by 2 moles, and carries on an extensive trade with Trieste and Dalmatia, the exports consisting chiefly of olive-oil, almonds, and seeds. It preserves the name of Barium, placed on the Via Appia, one of the cities said to have been founded by Iapyx, the son of Da dal us ; and it abounds now in fish, as in the days of Horace : — Postera ternpestas melior ; via pejor, ad usque Bari moenia piscosi. — Sat. i. v. 96. There is no mention of Barium pre- vious to the Roman conquest of Apulia ; but its coins attest its Greek origin, and its having been a place of some consi- deration in the 3rd centy. b.c. Its strong fortifications were famous during the contests of the middle ages. After its possession had been long disputed by the Longobards, the Saracens, and the Greeks, it fell into the hands of the latter, who made it the capital of Apulia* and the residence of the Cata- 'pau, and, with short intervals, held it for nearly 2 centuries, till it be- came one of the strongholds of the Nor- mans. The Saracens, who were driven from Bari in 871 by Louis II., the grandson of Charlemagne, besieged it in 1002, and would have taken it, if a V enetian fleet, commanded by the Doge Pietro Orseolo II., had not relieved it. In commemoration of this event, the inhabitants erected in the old market- place a figure of the lion of S. Mark, which is still lying there neglected and forgotten. William the Bad, against whom Bari had rebelled, razed it to the ground in 1156. In the 14th centy. Bari was erected into a duchy, which, after passing into the hands of several masters, at the end of the 15th centy. was ceded to Isabella of Aragon, the widow of Gian Galeazzo Sforza, Duke of Milan, who went to live at Bari, and from whom Bona her daughter, the Queen of Poland, inherited it. After the death of her husband, Bona retired to Bari in 1555, where she died in the castle in 1558, leaving the duchy of Bari, by her will, to Philip II. of Spain, and thus reuniting it to the crown. Louis Duke of Anjou died also in the castle, of the plague, in Oct. 1384, during his long war with King Charles Durazzo, who nearly perished from the same dis- ease at Barletta. The castle is about 1 m. in circuit, has 5 bastions and 2 towers, of which the only one which is entire is now used as a telegraph sta- tion. At the N. end there is a small chapel, which, according to a long inscription upon it, was the scene of a miracle of S. Francis of Assisi, In ecclesiastical history, Bari is con- spicuous as one of the first Christian bishoprics. The Priory of S. Nicholas was founded in 1087, on the ancient palace of the Catapan, given by Robert Guiscard to the Bishop, in order to re- ceive the remains of the saint, brought from Myra in Lycia by some native mariners. It was largely endowed by Robert himself and his son Roger, and is now one of the principal sanc- tuaries of the kingdom. The ch., with a Gothic facade, has 7 doors, and 3 aisles divided by marble columns. The nave has a large gallery, the whole of its length. The ceiling is painted in ROUTE 148. — BARI. — ANDRIA. 845 fresco, and richly gilt. There is a Holy Family by Bartolommeo Viva, bearing date 1476; and in the chapel of S. Martin an interesting painting on a gold ground, ascribed to the brothers Vivarini di Murano. In one of the side chapels there is a bas-relief of the martyrdom of S. Lorenzo. Behind the choir is the Tomb of Bona Sforza, Dowager Queen of Poland. It is a large sarcophagus of black marble, upon which rests the effigy of the queen in white marble, in a praying attitude. In niches behind it are figures of the Polish saints, Casimir and Stanislaus ; and on each side symbolical repre- sentations of Polish provinces. Roberto Chyurlia da Bari, the prothonotary of Charles I., who was assassinated at Naples on the spot where he read the sentence on Conradin, is also buried in this ch. Of the 3 chairs which are shown, the oldest is said to be the coro- nation chair of Roger ; the second is for the use of the king, who is always the first canon of the ch. ; and the third is for the prior on state occasions. In 1098 Urban II. held in this ch. a council of Greek and Latin bishops, to settle the differences between the two churches, at which Anselm, Archbishop of Can- terbury, is said to have been present. An inscription, comparatively modern, would make us believe, against all his- torical evidence, that Roger, after the parliament of barons at Salerno, was crowned here King of Sicily in 1130, by the legate of the antipope Anacletus II. In the splendid crypt, whose archi- tecture presents so strongly the Sara- cenic style as to have been compared to that of the Mosque of Cordova, is the Tomb of S. Nicholas, said to distil miraculously a liquid called the Manna di S. Nicola di Bari, and held in high repute as a remedy for all diseases. The festival of the saint in May draws crowds of pilgrims. The high altar is covered with silver bas-reliefs repre- senting the history of his life. The Campanile at the N.W. corner of the ch. is lofty and in perfect repair, and in its lower story is an archway, as at Barletta, through which passes one of the thoroughfares of the town. The cathedral, dedicated to S. Sabinus, was originally a fine Gothic building, but was seriously injured by alterations made in 1745 by the Archbishop Gaeta, who changed the ceiling and the form and situation of the windows, and co- vered with stucco the fine columns of granite and marble which divide the aisles. The altar of S. Rocco has a painting by Tintoretto, and opposite one by Paul Veronese. The two paintings of the apse are by Mattia Preti. The handsome crypt contains the body of S. Sabinus, with his silver bust, and a painting of the Byzantine school, called the Madonna di Cosian- tinopoli. The belfry, 270 palmi high, has a great resemblance to the Moorish campanile of Seville. In the courtyard of the Vescovado which adjoins the cathedral is a statue of S. Sabinus, on a column of granite. The ch. of the nunnery of S. Maria del Buon Consiglio has a good picture by Pietro da Cortona, and the ch. of the nunnery of S. Giacomo has a S. Benedict and the Nativity by Ludovico Vaccaro, and a S. Giacomo and the Beato Bernardo Tolomei by Be Matteis. In the ch, of the Capuchins the Invention of the Cross over the high altar is attri- buted to Paul Veronese. The high post-road from Bari crosses the isthmus to Taranto, and from the latter proceeds through Lecce to Otranto. Another road, following the coast-line, proceeds by Monopoli to Brindisi (Rte. 149) . A third, running nearly parallel to the high post-road from Barletta to Bari, proceeds inland from Canosa to Bari, passing through several towns. We shall describe the sites on the latter road before we proceed to Ta- ranto. excursion to andria, castel del monte, corato, ruvo, and terlizzi. After leaving Canosa a road branches on the rt. to 12 m. Andria (16,000 Inhab. — Inn in- different), an episcopal city, where Yo- landa, the second wife of Frederick II,, Q 3 346 ROUTE 148. — RUVO. — TERLIZZI. died in childbed in 1228, after giving birth to Conrad. The emperor’s third wife, Isabella of England, who died at Foggia, is also buried in the cathedral. In 1799 Andria sustained a gallant siege against the republican army com- manded by General Broussier and Ettore Carafa, Conte di Ruvo, the feudal lord of the city. So strong was the political fury of the two parties, that Carafa was the first person who scaled the walls, and the city was destroyed by fire at his suggestion. From Andria 2 roads, of 6| m. each, lead to Baiietta and Trani. The vetturini often proceed from Canosa to Trani through Andria, instead of going through Barletta. A bridle-path of nearly 10 m. leads from Andria to Castel del Monte, the favourite hunting-seat of Frederick II., placed on the summit of a pyramidical hill in a stony wilderness, on the skirt of the Murgie di Minervino, and com- manding an extensive view of the plain stretching to the sea and dotted with towns. It is still an imposing pile, worthy of the memory of the great emperor; it is built in an octagonal form with 8 towers, in a rich and. re- markable style of Arabian and Gothic architecture. Its splendid masonry is almost as perfect now as when the edi- fice was first erected, but it is totally abandoned by its present proprietor, the Duke of Andria, and' left to ruin and decay. The windows are beautiful specimens of florid Gothic ; the roofs of the several chambers are vaulted ; and the ribs of the arches in the upper rooms rest upon triple clustered columns of white marble, the material used in the construction of the ribs, bosses, and other decorations of the apartments. The elaborate and beautiful workman- ship of the building, and the regularity and completeness of its design, leave it without a parallel in Italy ; and it is greatly to be regretted that proper mea- sures are not taken to preserve it on its own account, as a National monument, independently of its association with the house of Suabia. It has an additional but more melancholy interest as the place in which Charles of Anjou con- fined for a short time the widow and children of Manfred, after the battle of Benevento ; so that the favourite resi- dence of the Imperial warrior, philoso- pher, and troubadour became, in less than 30 years, the prison of his grandchildren. From Castel del Monte we may either go direct to Corato by a path of 8 m., or return to Andria, and thence proceed by the road to Corato, a small town 6^ m. off, passing at the 4th m. close by the Epitaffio, a monument erected on the spot where the tournament of Bar- letta took place. Between Corato and Trani there is a road 6 \ m. long. From Corato the road, after 3| m., brings us to Ruvo (9000 Inhab.), occupying the site and retaining the name of Rubi : — Inde Rubos fessi pervenimus : utpote longum Carpentes iter, et factum corruptius imbri. Hor. Sat. 1. v. 94. Ruvo is now celebrated for the Greek vases found in its vicinity, which are the largest known. The local museum of these and other antiquities formed by Signor latta has been partly dispersed, but the finest specimens may be seen in the Museo Borbonico at Naples. The ear of corn impressed upon the coins of Rubi shows that the district was cele- brated in ancient times, as it is now, for its grain. The Cathedral is remarkable for its W. front, covered with figures of ani- mals, the portal being flanked by co- lumns, supported by lions and griffons, surmounted by a good rose window. From Ruvo, after 3| m., we reach Terlizzi (15,0.00 Inhab.), a neat and flourishing town, containing a small col- lection of pictures belonging to the Fait family, arranged in a gallery of large dimensions. Though some of its finest things have disappeared, it still con- tains some specimens by Perugino, Spagnoletto, Domenichino, Titian, Sal- vator Rosa, and others. The Theca Calamaria, or inkstand, now in the Museo Borbonico (p. 141), was found in 1745 in an ancient tomb near Ter- lizzi. From Terlizzi we may turn on the 1. to Molfetta, 5 m. off, or proceed onwards, after 5£ m. through groves of olive and almond trees, to Bit onto (16,000 Inhab.), a flourishing town, nearly retaining the name of Bu- tuntum, whose coins show that it must ROUTE 148. — GIOIA. — TARANTO. 347 have been a place of some importance. It is the see of a bishopric united with Ruvo. Near it is a pillar commemo- rating the death of a Spanish general slain in the service of Charles Durazzo. From Bitonto we may either go to Bari, 9i m. off, or strike inland on the rt. to Bitetto, 6 m., passing at the 4th m, through Palo (6000 Inhab.), prettily placed on a hill, and known for its deli- cious wines, called Aleatico, Zagarese, and Moscato. From Bitetto, where we meet the road from Bari to Alta- mura (Rte. 153), we may either turn to Bari on the 1., or to Altamura on the rt., or proceed in a S.E. direction, and passing through Montrone (3000 In- hab.), 7 m., whose principal ch. con- tains a S. Francesco di Paola, attributed to Titian , cross the high road from Bari to Taranto near Casamassima, and proceed through Pntigliano and Co li- ver sano to meet at Polignano the road along the coast to Brindisi (Rte. 149). Resuming the high post-road, on leaving Bari for Taranto, we pass at the 3rd m. on the 1 . Triggiano (3000 Inhab.), and at a short distance on the rt. Ceglie ( 1900 Inhab.), on the site of ancient Ccelia, near which numerous tombs containing coins and vases re- sembling those of Ruvo, but with a varnish similar to those of Nola, have been discovered. At the 5th m. we pass Capurso (3000 Inhab.), containing a convent locally celebrated for a miracu- lous image of the Virgin, found in a well, and hence called del Pozzo : 2 m. E. of it, on the 1., is Noia (6000 Inhab.), which was visited by plague in 1815 ; it contains a small Gothic ch. 1^ m. Casamassima (6000 Inhab. — Inn: La Posta, indifferent). The ch. contains a picture by Fabrizio Santa- fede. 5 m. Casal S. Michele (3500 Inhab.), founded by a colony of Servians, who, in 1615, landed at Barletta to escape from the persecution of the Ottomans, and obtained from the then feudal lord of Casamassima the permission of build- ing this village ; but after some years, as they would not give up their Greek ritual at the request of Rome, they were expelled from the kingdom. 1 J m. Gioia (14,000 Inhab. — Inn : La Posta, indifferent), a thriving town, once surrounded by extensive woods, which Frederick II. made a royal chase. The road proceeds S., passing over a dreary and uninteresting tract ; and after en- tering the province of Otranto, it reaches 1 m. S. Basile, a solitary post-station near a farm of the Duca di Martina : 3 m. further it skirts the base of a barren hill, on the summit of which is Mottola (3000 Inhab.), which has nearly preserved the name of Mateola. It is reached by a winding road of 1 m., and commands an extensive view of the Gulf of Taranto and great part of the province of Lecce. A steep descent of 4 m. brings us to 1 m. Massafra (9000 Inhab.), pret- tily placed above one of the branches of the Patinisco, on the slope of a singular limestone hill, covered with myrtles and rosemary, and whose horizontal strata are full of caverns which abound in nitre, and are occupied by the lower classes. Half a m. from the town, at the bottom of a deep ravine, is the ch. of the Madonna della Scala, which takes its name from the long staircase by which it is reached. The post- station is below the town : 3 m. on the rt. is Palaggiano. The road proceeds through extensive olive-plantations, and. crossing the Gravina di Leucaspiti by the long bridge of Gennarini, de- scends to 9 m. Taranto (17,000 Inhab. — Inn • La Posta, dirty), finely situated on an isthmus separating the Gulf, to which it gives its name, from the Mare Piccolo , which formed the harbour of the an- cient city. Tarentum was a consider- able town when the Spartan Parthenii arrived here upwards of 700 years b.c. ; and its subsequent riches and luxury are celebrated by the Roman poets and historians. Horace records its Spartan origin : — Tendens Venafranos in agros Aut Lacedaemonium Tarentum. Carm. hi, v. 55. 348 ROUTE 148. — TARANTO. Tarentum far surpassed all the other cities of Magna Grsecia iu splendour and importance ; the first artists of Greece were employed to decorate the city with their works, and its fine har- bour secured to it an extensive com- merce. During its independence it had at command an army of 30,000 foot and 5000 horse, The wool of the sheep which grazed on the banks of the Gale- sus was more esteemed for its fineness than that of Apulia, and the red-purple dye obtained from the murex was cele- brated among all the nations of antiquity. It was famous for the wines produced by the vineyards of Aulon, for its sweet figs, and its fine white salt. But its riches and luxury soon enervated the citizens. The ten years’ war which it maintained in conjunction with Pyrrhus against Rome ended in the loss of its independence, and in the time of Horace it had already become degraded by the epithet of imbelle. Tarentum was the chosen seat of the Pythagorean philosophy, and the resi- dence of its founder. The patronage of the celebrated mathematician Archy^ tas, who presided, as strategos, oyer the councils of the republic during its greatest prosperity, afforded an asylum to the Pythagorean sect. Plato, at- tracted by the fame of the schools of Tarentum, came from Athens to visit them, and was entertained by Archytas as his guest. When Tarentum was retaken by Fa- bius Maximus, b.c. 209, in the second Punic war. it was treated with severity ; most of its statues, paintings, and other works of art were removed to Rome and deposited in the Capitol; and the preference given to Brundusium, as a port, finally completed its ruin. Modern Taranto occupies the site of the ancient citadel, whose Roman garri- son withstood successfully the attacks of Hannibal, but it retains scarcely any traces of its former opulence. The population is crowded in lofty houses built so close to each other that the streets are as dark and narrow as those of an oriental town. The shape of the city has been likened to that of a ship. The rocky isthmus on which it stands was cut through by Ferdinand I. of Ara- gon, to secure it from the attacks of the Turks, so that it is in fact an island. The long bridge of 7 arches thrown over the natural channel into the Mare Piccolo, for the purpose of uniting the city with the opposite side of the main land, and along, which the aqueduct is carried, has rendered the inner harbour perfectly useless. Ships must therefore anchor in the outer roads, called the Mare Grande , which are much exposed to S. and S.W, winds. The high square tower at the foot of the bridge was erected in 1404 by Raimondello Orsini, first husband of Mary d’Enghien, the third queen of King Ladislaus. The Castle and fortifications were built by Charles V. They command both seas. Towards the Mare Grande, the castle is flanked by enormous towers. The Cathedral is dedicated to S. Ca- taldus, a native of Raphoe in Ireland, and the first bishop of Taranto. His chapel is inlaid with fine marbles. The altar and reliquiary are very rich ; the bust of the saint, the size of life, is of silver. In the sacristy several relics of the Irish saint are shown ; among these are his ring and cross covered with precious stones. Among the sepulchral monuments may be mentioned that of Philip Prince of Taranto, son of Charles II. of Anjou, and his wife Ca- tharine, daughter of Charles Count of Valois and Catharine Courtenay, grand- daughter of Baldwin II., in whose right he became titular Emperor of Constanti- nople. Taranto is the birthplace of Paisiello the composer. The Mare Piccolo is 12 m. in cir- cumference; great numbers of coins, gems, gold and silver ornaments, and earthen vases have been found upon its banks. It abounds with many va- rieties of shelbfish. The oyster-fishery begins ou St. Andrew’s day and ends at Easter; the muscle-fishery extends from Easter to Christmas. Both are subject to strict laws contained in a book called / l Libro Rosso, the custody of which is confided to the chief officer of the Dogana. Among the shells may be mentioned the argonauta, several va- rieties of murex, the modiola litho- phaga, the mytilus edulis, and the ROUTE 148 . — TARANTO. 349 pinna nobilis, well known for its silky tuft called the lana pesce, which is manufactured into gloves and stockings, and of which the ancients are supposed to have made the light gauze dresses worn by the dancing-girls, as repre- sented in the paintings of Pompeii. Near is a hill, called the Monte Testaccio, formed almost entirely of shells, from which the purple dye so highly prized by the Romans is supposed to have been prepared. A short distance from the N. shore are two freshwater springs, rising in considerable volume and strength from the middle of the sea, forming large circles on the surface, and suffi- ciently powerful to prevent the approach of small boats. The Mare Piccolo is divided into two portions by the promontories of II Pizzone and Punta della Penna. Under the latter, on the N. shore, is Le Ci- trezze, a small stream called by the local antiquaries Ihe Galasus ; though the Cervaro, at the E. extremity of the bay, has with greater probability been identified by most scholars with that classical stream, on whose banks Han- nibal encamped, b c. 212, to watch the blockade of the citadel. On the S. shore, 1 m. from Taranto, is 'S. Lucia , a pretty villa, once the property of the Archbishop Capecelatro and of General Pepe. It was occupied by the Earl of Guilford, as his private quarantine-sta- tion, during his frequent visits to the Ionian Islands, but it is now in a state of dilapidation. It was on the 1. bank of the Galsesus, perhaps the present valley of S. Nicola, that Virgil met with the aged Corycian whose skill in agricultural pursuits he has commemorated: — Namque sub (Ebalise memini me turribus altis, Qua niger humectat fiaventia culta Galesus, Corycium vidisse senem ; cui pauca relicti Jugera ruris erant; nec fertilis ilia juvencis, Nec pecori opportuna seges, nec commoda Baccho. Georg, iv. 125. On the same bank some of the local antiquaries place the Aulon, so much praised by Horace: — Unde si Parc* prohibent iniquse, Dulce pellitis ovibus Galaesi Flumen, et regnata petam Laconi Rura Phalanto. Tile terrarum mihi prseter omnes Angulus ridet ; ubi non Hymetto Mella decedunt, viridique certat Bacca Yenafro ; Yer ubi longum, tepidasque praebet Jupiter brumas ; et amicus Aulon Fertili Baccho minimum Falernis Invidet uvis. Carm. ir. vi. Among the ruins of Tarentum are still traceable the remains of the theatre, the circus, and some traces of temples. The theatre is pointed out in the garden of theTheresian monks. Its ruins, now encumbered with rubbish, will hardly fail to remind the traveller that it was while sitting in this theatre, which com- manded a view of the gulf, that the citizens saw the Roman fleet laden with corn passing on their way to Pu- teoli, b.c. 280, and were seized with a desire of plunder, which led them to attack and capture the ships. It was here also that they insulted the ambas- sadors sent by the Roman Senate to demand satisfaction for this outrage. The result of these injuries was the 10 years’ war already mentioned. The neighbourhood of Taranto is celebrated for its honey, as it was in the time of Horace, and for the variety of its fruits. The date-palm produces fruit, but it ripens imperfectly. The aqueduct which supplies the city with water is a remarkable work, attri- buted to the Emp. Nicephorus. The source is said to be distant 20 m., during 12 of which the water is carried through a subterranean channel, whose course is marked by spiracoli, or air-holes. For the last 3 m. it is brought into the city upon arches. Opposite Taranto are two small flat islands, the Charades. They were vi- sited by the Athenian general, Demo- sthenes, in the expedition against Sicily, who was here joined by some Messa- pian archers. The island of S. Pietro, the largest, is 4 m., and that of S. Paolo 2 m. in circumference. The monastery of S. Pietro on the former was endowed with various privileges by Bohemond, and his wife Constance, daughter of Philip I. King of France, in 1118 and 1119. The island of S. Paolo was for- tified by the Chev. de Laclos, the author of the ‘ Liaisons Danyereuses / who is 350 ROUTE 148. TARANTO TO LECCE. buried within the fortress. The Capo di San Vito, which forms the S. extremity of the bay, commands a fine view of the town and gulf, and of the distant shores of Calabria. It is covered with wild caper plants and asphodels, and has a watch-tower, erected in the middle ages as a defence against the Barbary pirates. The title of Prince of Taranto, which was first conferred upon Bohemond by his father Robert Guiscard, was trans- ferred by Charles II. of Anjou on his son Philip. His three sons dying with- out male issue, the title, with that of Emperor of Constantinople, was carried into the family Del Balzo by his daugh- ter. The title of Duke of Taranto was conferred by Napoleon on Marshal Macdonald. The district between Taranto, Brin- disi, and Otranto is the country of the spider to which it gives name, the ta- rantula, whose bite is the reputed cause of that peculiar melancholy madness which can only be cured by music and dancing. It is now generally admitted that the imagination has great influence in its production. The tarantula is often seen in the neighbourhood of every town of the district. In the last centy. Dr. Ciriilo communicated to the Royal Society the result of his observa- tions, proving that the tarantula has not the power of producing any injurious effects whatever. {Phil. Trans, xvi. 233.) The cure of a tarantata is a mu- sical holiday, and the process is con- sequently expensive. Tarantismo, there- fore, is gradually becoming rare. Mr. Craven has given us an account of the ceremonies observed on these occasions. “ Musicians, expert in the art, are sum- moned, and the patient, attired in white, and gaudily adorned with various co- loured ribands, vine-leaves, and trinkets of all kinds, is led out, in the midst of her sympathising friends ; she sits with her head reclining on her hands, while the musical performers try the different chords, keys, tones, and tunes that may arrest her wandering attention, or suit her taste or caprice. . . The sufferer usu- ally rises to some melancholy melody in a minor key, and slowly follows its movements by her steps ; it is then that the musician has an opportunity of dis- playing his skill, by imperceptibly ac- celerating the time, till it falls into the merry measure of the pizzica, which is, in fact, that of the Tarentella or national dance. She continues dancing to various successions of these tunes as long as her breath and strength allow .... and sprinkling her face with cold water, a large vessel of which is always placed near at hand. . . . When, overcome by resistless lassitude and faintness, she de- termines to give over for the day, she takes the pail or jar of water, and pours its contents entirely over her person, from her head downwards. This is the signal for her friends to undress and convey her to bed.” From Taranto a new road of 15 m. leads to Martina (14,000 Inhab.), a thriving town situated among the hills, and containing a large palace of its former Dukes. A via naturale of 8 m. passing through a succession of vine- yards, orchards, and orange - groves dotted with the Casini of the modern Tarantinos, leads to Luperano (1500 Inhab.), a name said to be derived from Leporarium, a preserve of wild animals. One m. from Luperano, on a very pretty low headland, abounding in springs and clothed with rich vegetation, is the Torre di Saturn, near which are con- siderable remains of mosaic pavements, and of bricks, and a long subterranean passage, supposed to mark the site of Saturum : — Sin armenta magis studium vitulosque tueri' Aut. foetus ovium, aut urentes culta capellas : Saltus et Saturi petito longinqua Tarenti. Virg. Gtor. ii. 195, On the shore near Torre di Saturo, at a retired nook called Luogovivo, re- markable for the excellence of its wines, some local topographers place the amicus Aulon of Horace, a name supposed to be preserved in the denomination Pezza Melone given to one of the fields : — Nobilis et lanis et felix vitibus Aulon, Det pretiosa tibi vellera, vina mihi. Mart. xiv. 125. On quitting Taranto the high roaa leaves the Mare Piccolo on the 1., and skirts on the rt. the Salina Grande, which was drained in 1820 by means of a covered canal of 2 m., which empties itself into the Mare Piccolo. On the ROUTE 148. — TARANTO TO LECCE. 351 rt. is seen Faggiano, a colony of Alba- nians, and on the hill Rocca Forzata, the birthplace of Giorgio Basta, a gene- ral of the imperial army in Hungary in the 16th centy., whose works on mili- tary tactics were long regarded as text- books. A steep ascent brings us to 7 m. S. Giorgio (2000 Inhab.), from which the villages of Carosino made conspicuous by a large baronial house, and Montemesula on a hill, are seen. Here a road of 13 m. branches off on the 1. to Francavilla. (13 m.) 1 Monteparano (1100 Inhab.), the post station. It commands a fine view towards Mare Piccolo. W e leave Fra- gagnano on a hill on the 1., and pass through Sava (4000 Inhab.), situated in a dull uninteresting country. If m. Manduria (7300 Inhab. — Inns: Locanda di Palazzo ; Locanda dell ’ Orologio, both tolerable), occupying partly its ancient site, and still retain- ing its name. It contains several good buildings. ^ m. from the town is the well, described so accurately by Pliny : neqae exhaustis aquis minuitur, neque infusis augetur. The waters preserve a constant level, and are never known to increase or decrease, however much may be taken from them. The well is situated in a large circular cavern in the tertiary rock, which abounds in marine shells. It is now called Scegno. Archidamus, King of Sparta, son of Agesilaus, who came from Greece to assist the Taran- tines against the Messapians and Luca- nians, perished in a battle fought near the town b.c. 338. His body was cap- tured by the enemy, who refused it the rites of burial, — the only instance, it is said, in which the body of a Spartan king was deprived of interment. Fabius Maximus took Manduria by assault just before he recovered Tarentum b.c. 209. There are extensive remains of its an- cient walls built of large rectangular blocks in regular courses, without ce- ment. They formed a double circuit with a way between them and a ditch on the outside. In some places they are 15 ft. high. Numerous tombs have been found in different places about; and an extensive necropolis was discovered in 1829 close to the modern town on the rt. of the road to Lecce. The principal ch. is ancient, with a richly ornamented Campanile and a rose window in the W. front. In the little chapel of the Madonna della Pieta, adjoining the Casa Briganti, there is a descent to a large subter- ranean passage, which from within the circuit of the walls led 2 m. outside the town. On the road to the convent of the Capuchins is the small chapel of S. Pietro Mandurino, from which there is a descent to a smaller chapel about 40 ft. under ground, the walls of which are covered with paintings much injured by damp and neglect. They are of a style not earlier than the 16th centy., but their subjects, saints of the primi- tive Eastern Church, show that they must originally have been painted at a very early period, and only restored in the 16th centy. [A bad bridle-road of 30 m. leads from Manduria, through the village of Avetrana and the woods of Modonato and Arneo, along the coast to Gallipoli (Rte. 150); A via naturale of 6 m., pass- ing halfway a curious ancient cut in the rock, several m. long and nearly 10 ft. broad, which is now partly filled up with earth, leads to Oria (7000 Inhab.), an episcopal city occupying the site of Plyria or Uria, on the Via Appia, according to Hero- dotus the metropolis of the Messapians, founded by a colony of Cretans before the Trojan war. It is situated on a hill commanding a most extensive view from the Adriatic to the Ionian Sea ; and is surmounted by the picturesque towers of a mediaeval castle, formerly belong- ing to the Princes of Francavilla, and now to a nunnery ! It is surrounded by olive-grounds, and the soil is highly cultivated, abounding in vineyards and plantations of fruit-trees divided by high hedges of aloes. Numerous coins bear- ing the name Orra and inscriptions in the Messapian dialect have been found near the town. A via naturale of 18 m. leads from Oria to Brindisi, passing through Latiano, a neat village of 4000 Inhab., and Mesagne (Rte. 149). A new road of 3 m. leads to Francavilla (15,300 Inhab.), a flou- rishing and regularly built town, in the midst of a fertile plain, containing many 352 ROUTE 148. —LECCE. — OTRANTO. large churches and houses. From here a new road of 13 m. joins the road between Taranto and Manduria at S. Giorgio.] On leaving Manduria for Lecce we pass on the rt. the necropolis, cross the line of the ancient walls, and pro- ceed to 1 S. Pangrazio , the post-station. The next station is 1 Carnpi (4700 Inhab.), from which crossing an extensive plain well cultivated and covered with villages, we reach 1 Lecce (19,400 Inhab. — Inns: several, but all indifferent), the capital of the province and the see of a bishop, entered by a handsome gateway. It contains many large buildings, among which the palace of the governor is particularly conspicuous. The cathe- dral, dedicated to 8. Oronzio, the first bishop of the see, has a wooden roof richly carved and gilt. Frederick of Aragon and his queen Isabella are said to have been crowned within its walls in 1497 by Cardinal Borgia. In the public square is a marble column brought from Brindisi, where the pe- destal from which it fell in 1528 still remains. Lecce is the birthplace of Scipione Ammirato, the historian of the 16th centy. King Tancred bore the title of Count of Lecce ; a title revived in this centy. in favour of one of the brothers of the present king. Lecce occupies the site of Lupice, an ancient city of the Salentians, which is said to have been founded by King Malen- nius, and of which large remains were traceable as late as the 1 5th centy. A Messapian inscription and many tombs containing vases have been found on the spot. Near Lecce, a spot called Rnge in the middle ages is supposed to mark the site of Rudies , the birthplace of Ennius, the father of Latin poetry : — Ennius emeruit, Calabris in montibus ortus, Contiguus poni, Scipio magne, tibi. Ovid. De Art. Am. nr. 409. Ennius, antiqua Messapi ab origine regis, Miscebat primas acies, Latiseque superbum Vitis adornabat dext.ram decus : hispida tellus Miserunt Calabri; Rudiae genuere vetustae : Nunc Rudiae solo memorabile nomen alumno. Sil. Ital. xii. 393. A new road of 6 m. has recently been opened from Lecce to the Castello di S. Cataldo on the Adriatic, which is the favourite promenade. A cross one branches off from Lecce to Gallipoli, 1 9 J m. (Rte. 1 50). The road to Otranto, pass- ing on the 1. Calimera, a colony of Alba- nians, supposed to have settled here in the 9th centy., proceeds through 1? Martano (3500 Inhab.), a neat- looking village; from whence, -after traversing a level country, it crosses the Idro, a sluggish stream, and brings us to l|m. Otranto (1900 Inhab. — Inn: U Immacolata, tolerable), situated in the centre of a small bay. Though still the see of an Archbishop, Otranto has dwindled down from its ancient pros- perity into a miserable fishing village, chiefly in consequence of the malaria. Pliny tells us that Pyrrhus had a project of throwing a bridge of boats from Hydruntum over the Adriatic to Apollonia, in order to connect Italy with Greece. In the 11th centy. Otranto was the scene of the embark- ation of the Normans under Robert Guiscard and Bohemond for the siege of Durazzo. Its Castle, rendered fami- liar to the English by the romance of Horace Walpole, was built by Alfonso of Aragon, and its massive walls, with the two large circular towers, added by Charles V., constitute almost the only picturesque object in the city. On the parapets and in the streets of the city are still preserved several enormous cannon- balls of granite, the relics of the tem- porary occupation by the Turks. The landing of the Turkish army under Achmet Pacha, grand vizier of Mahomet II., took place July 28, 1480. Their siege and capture of the fortress filled all Christendom with terror, and the Italian states forgot their discords to unite in a common crusade for the ex- pulsion of the invaders. Otranto had then more than 20,000 Inhab. ; 12,000 were massacred, and the rich who could pay a ransom, and the young who could be sold, were reduced to slavery. The archbishop and priests were the prin- cipal objects of Turkish violence, and the churches were exposed to every kind of profanation. Sixtus IV., who is ac- ROUTE 148. — CASTRO. — CAPO DI LEUCA. 353 cused of having plotted with the Vene- tians to bring about this invasion, be- came so alarmed that he hesitated whether he should not seek an asylum in France. But the Duke of Calabria, afterwards Alfonso II., marched to the relief of Otranto with an army collected from various states of Europe, and after some reverses, succeeded in forcing the Turkish commander to capitulate, Aug. 18, 1481 ; an event probably hastened by the death of Mahomet II. The opposite coast of Albania is visible from the ramparts in fine weather. The Cathedral contains several co- lumns taken from the ruins of a Tem- ple of Minerva, a few m. S. of the city, now called S. Nicola. The floor is an ancient mosaic, representing gro- tesque animals and trees. It suffered greatly from the trampling of the horses of the Turkish cavalry, who occupied it as a stable. The bones of the inhab. slain in the contest with the Turks are preserved in a separate cha- pel. In the walls of the house of the syndic are two altars dedicated to Marcus Aurelius and Verus. At a little distance from the city is the Torre del Serpe, erected by the Venetians as a lighthouse for the port. There is a light sailing packet from Otranto to Corfu, which professes to keep up a weekly communication be- tween the ports ; but, as its arrival and departure are uncertain, passengers are sometimes obliged to wait a week or fortnight, and the length of passage is doubtful, sometimes occupying many days, at others only 12 hours. The fare is 5 dollars. Passengers provide themselves with everything, and the captain expects to be invited to break- fast and dinner. In fine weather, when there is so little wind as to make the packet uncertain, a six-oared scampavia is often despatched. Before embarking there are numerous formalities to be gone through with the custom-house, health, and police-officers ; but the Eng- lish Vice-Consul is always ready to faci- litate these arrangements. EXCURSION TO THE CAPO OF LEUCA. From Otranto a via naturale, leaving at a short distance on the rt. Muro , where some large ruins are supposed to mark the site of Sarmadium , reaches 10 m. Castro (1000 Inhab.), prettily situated on a rocky eminence near the sea, and supposed to be the ancient Castrum Minerva ’, which derived its name from a temple of Minerva men- tioned by Strabo as having been very wealthy. The traveller needs scarcely be reminded that here iEneas first ap- proached the Italian shore : — Jamque rubescebat stellis Aurora fugatis : Cum procul obscuros colies, humilemque videmus Italiam. Italiam primus conclamat Achates, Italiam laeto socii clamore salutant. ******* Crebrescunt optatag auras : portusque patescit Jam propior, templumque apparet in Arce Mi- nervse. — V ikg. Mn. in. 521. The via proceeds through a succession of gardens, vineyards, and villages, which, though remote, and little fre- quented by travellers, are peopled by rich and hospitable inhabitants, passing by Tricase. 12 m. Alessano (2000 Inhab.), founded in the 1 1th cent, by the Emp. Alexius Comnenus. The via from here pro- ceeds through the villages of Monte- sardo , Path, and Castrignano, to 7 m. Capo di Leuca , or di Finisterra, the Iapygium , or Salentinum Promon- torinm, the extreme point of the heel of Italy. The ch. and cluster of houses at S. Maria di Leuca marks the site of ancient Leuca, celebrated for the spring of fetid water said to have arisen from the wounds of the giants expelled by Hercules from the Phlegrsean plains. The view from the promontory in fine weather extends to the Acroceraunian mountains in Albania. Excellent to- bacco, cotton, flax, and olives are pro- duced in the highly cultivated soil on every part of the cape. Instead of returning to Otranto, we may vary the route by going to Galli- poli (Rte. 1 50). The road, 28 m., passes Path, Presicce (2000 Inhab.), TJgevto , (1800 Inhab.), the ancient Uxentum , an episcopal see, and Taviano. 3 m. N.E. of 354 ROUTE 149. — BARI TO BRINDISI. the latter place is the village of Matino, supposed by some antiquaries to pre- serve the name of the Lit t us Matinum, which would accordingly have been on the shore, 5 m. from the modern village (p. 339). ROUTE 149. BARI TO BRINDISI. Posts. Miles. Bari to Mola - li = Mola to Monopoli - H = Monopoli to Fasano - - 1 = Fasano to Ostuni - n = Ostuni to San Vito - - H = San Vito to Brindisi - - i = 8 = aae^memnioasEasas^aesi This road, which is the Via Trajana, a branch of the Appian, follows the coast, but as yet there are no regular post- stations upon it. The best plan, is to hire a vetturino at Bari. lj Mala (10,000 Inhab.), a small port. In 1710, 11,000 of its Inhab. were swept away by the plague. Pass- ing a richly cultivated country, diversi- fied by olive, almond, and carouba trees, by a good road of 3 m. to the rt. we reach 9 m. Polignano (6000 Inhab.), pic- turesquely situated on a high rocky cliff, in which is a large and curious cavern to which the sea has access. Several remains of antiquity and coins have been found in the neighbourhood, and are supposed to mark the site of Arnetum (?) A road of 6 m. from here leads'on the rt. to Conversano (9000 In- hab.), the see of a bishop, with a large Benedictine nunnery, in whose archives are preserved some curious letters of Mary d’Enghien, the wife of King Ladis- laus. At Conversano the inland road coming from Canosa is met (p. 345). l'J Monopoli (16,000 Inhab.), an episcopal city, the residence of nume- rous rich proprietors. The cathedral is a fine building, containing a painting of S. Sebastian by Palma Vecchio. About 5 m. beyond Monopoli, on the seashore, is Torre d'Fgnazia , near which are the ruins of Gnatia , where Horace and his companions, Mecmnas, Virgil, Heliodo- rus, and Plotius, were amused by the pretended miracle of the incense burn- ing on the altar without fire : — Define Gnatia, lymphis Iratis extructa, dedit risusque jocosque ; Dum, flamma sine, thura iiquescere limine sacro Persuadere cupit : credat Judaeus Apella, Non ego. — Sat. i. v. 97. A few Messapian inscriptions and numerous vases, terra cottas, and gold ornaments have been discovered on the spot. The road leaves the shore at Monopoli, and proceeds S. to 1 Fasano (10,000 Inhab.), a thriving town, on leaving which we enter the Terra vpt(av A OKpiov yevedv a\ey Motcrat, (fjvyoljevov arparov, MrjS’ aireCparov Ka\u)v, ’A/cpocrcw^ov 8'e koX alxp-arav, at^eodat. The ruins are not very extensive or im- portant. They are about 5 m. from Gerace, near the sea-coast, at Torre di Gerace , and consist of the basement of a Doric temple, and the vestiges of the walls, which can be traced for nearly 2 m. in length and 1 in breadth, extend- ing from the shore to the first heights, upon which probably the arx was. A few years ago many gold coins of Philip and Alexander, cast instead of being struck, and more recently a col- lection of silver tetradrachms of Pyrrhus were found near Gerace. They are supposed to have belonged to the money- chest of Alexander King of Epirus, who was defeated at Pandosia, now Mendocino (page 371). Coins bearing the epigraph of Locri have also been found at Gerace, and many of the architectural remains bear a decidedly Greek character ; but the Latin inscrip- tions which have been discovered, and numerous Roman constructions which are still to be traced, show that a Roman city subsequently occupied the site. [A bridle-road leads from Gerace over the Aspromonte by the Passo del Mercante to Casalnuovo. The scenery of the pass is very magnificent, com- bining the richest forest scenery with the wild glens of the rocky mountains through which the road is carried. The highest part of the ascent from Gerace is particularly remarkable for its ex- tensive and magnificent views. Both seas are visible from this summit, and the road descends on the western side through very imposing scenery, over- looking the gulf of Gioia, and com- manding a view which extends in fine weather to the Lipari islands, to 18 m. Casalnuovo (7500 Inhab.), finely situated at the foot of the mountains, and sufficiently high above the plain to be free from malaria. It was totally de- stroyed by the earthquake of 1783, and was almost entirely rebuilt of wood. From Casalnuovo the distance to Gioia is 18 m. ; the traveller may join the high road to Reggio at Posarno or Seminara, both of which are about equidistant from Casalnuovo, and are described in Rte. 155.] From Gerace to Capo Spartivento, 26 m. S., there is an indifferent bridle- road. The country and the villages we pass present little classical interest, but are in return highly picturesque, having the bold ridges of the Aspro- monte on the rt. all the way. On leaving Gerace the path crosses the Merico , proceeds to Portigliola, where it crosses the & I/ario, leaving on the 1. the ruins of Locri, passes through Condoianni , and, after crossing the Petito, brings us to 8 m. Ardore (3000 Inhab.), placed on a hill amidst vineyards and orchards. Crossing the broad valley that inter- 392 ROUTE 158. — CATANZARO TO REGGIO. veues, the path, by a winding ascent, reaches 4 m. Bovalino (3600 Inhab.), pic- turesquely situated on a high hill. The path descends to the shore, and follows it to 7 m. Bianco. — Another path of 5 m. ascends from Bovalino to -8. Luca , a small village, where guides can be hired to visit S. Maria de' Polsi. This monastery is placed below Montalto, the highest peak of the Aspromonte, and is only remarkable for the striking character of the scenery round it. The path to it from S. Luca, owing to the numerous windings in crossing the ridge of La Serra, is about 8 m. The monastery, a substantial square build- ing, said to have been founded by the Normans, is completely surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, which rise perpendicularly on the W. side in a succession of enormous buttresses, from which a small torrent tumbles foaming on the rt. of the building. These mountains are clothed with fine ancient forests of chestnut, ilex, oak, and a par- ticular variety of pine of great beauty, Pinus Laricio Calabra. For several months of the year the monks are snowed up and secluded from the rest of the world. From Bianco the path along the shore passes the 4 m. Capo di Bruzzano, the Zephy- rian promontory from which Locri derived its appellation Epizephyrii. Further on we pass 5 m. Brancaleone , a village on a hill 1 m. from the sea, whose inhabitants (800) in the beginning of the centy. still spoke Greek. Following the shore, we arrive at 4 m. Capo Spartivento, the Promon •> torium Herculis , the extreme S.E. pro- montory of Italy, whence we proceed to Reggio (Rte. 155, p. 383). ( 393 ) ABBEYS. A. Abbeys : — Monte Casino, 29. SS. Trinita della Cava, 262. Monte Vergine, 33 1. Holy- Trinity at Mileto (ruined), 377. At Yenosa (ruined), 360 Academies at Naples : — Acca- demia delle Scienze — Ponta- niana — Ercolanese di Ar- cheologia — di Belle Arti — Medico - Chirurgica, 1 19 Acalandrus fluvius, now the Salandrella, 385 Accigliano, village, 330 Acerenza, town of (Acheron- tia), 361, 362 Acerra, town of, near Naples, Acherontia, now Acerenza, 361 Acherusia Palus (the lake of Fusaro), 299 Acquamela, 330 Acri, village of, 371 Addison, his experiments on the Grotta del Cane, 307. On Virgil’s Tomb, 162 ASclanum, city of, now Le Grotte, 332 JEnaria, one of the names of Ischia, 309 ASneas, his first approach to Italy, 353. His interview with the Sibyl, 291, 301. His visit to the shades, 291. ASrarium, the, at Pompeii, 221 Aisarus fluv., now the Esaro, 388 Aesculapius, temple of, at Pom- peii, 231 ACsernia, Samnite city of, now Isernia, 45 Agata, S., village and convent of (il Deserto), near Sorrento, 242 • , post station, 19 de’ Goti, town of, 322 Agerola, village of, near Amalfi, 257 Agnano, lake of, 307 Agnello, S., village of, 239 Agri, river (Aciris), 3S5 Agriculture of the kingdom, xxiii Agromonte, costiera d’, 368 Agropoli, fishing town of, 272 INDEX. AMENDOLEA. Aiano, site of Tiberius’ palace at Capri, 246 Aiello, 330 Airola, village of, 326 Alabaster quarries on Monte Gargano, 338. At Rossano, 187 Alaric plunders Puteoli, 279. His letter on the dissipations of Baias, 294. His burial in the bed of the Busento, 370 Alaro, river (Sagras), 390 Alatri, town of (Alatrium), 24 Alba Fucensis, now Albe, 62 Albano, 4 Albe, village of (the Alba of the Marsi), 62 Albergo de’ Poveri, or the Re- clusorio, at Naples, 120 Albero, village of, 238, 242 Alburnus Portus, 272 Mons, now Monte Albur- no, 366 Alento, river (Heles), 273 Alessano, town of, 353 Alexander, king of Epirus, scene of his defeat and death, 37 1 - 3 g 5. ?9 l Alfidena, village of (Aufidena), 45 Alice, river, 383 Alice, Punta dell’, 387 Alife, village of (Allifae), 3 19 Alii, river, 374, 389 Alliba, lost city of, 277 Almond, cultivation of, xxix Altamura, city of, 363 Altilia, ancient Sepinum, 3 23 Amalfi, city of, 248. Modes of approach, from Naples, 248 ; from Sorrento, 249 ; from Castellammare, 250. History, 251. Cathedral, 253. Convent, 254. Mariner’s com- pass, 255. Dependencies, 256 Amalphitana Tabula, the ma- ritime code of Amalfi, 252 Amalthea, the, of Cicero, 55 Amantea, town of, 372 Amaro, Monte, the highest peak of the Maiella, 52 Amaseno, river (Amasenus), 9 Amatrice, town of, 35 Amendolara, village of, 386 Amendolea, river (Caecinus), 183 , village of, 384 | ANTICAGLIA. Amiternum, Sabine city of, now San Vittorino, 35 Amphitheatres, ancient, ruins of:— Alba, 62 Amiternum, 35 Beneventum, 327 Canusium, 341 Capua, 320 Casinum, 28 Cumse, 302 Caieta, 16 Interamna, 49 Larinum, 324 Minturme, 18 Passtum, 271 Pompeii, 233 Puteoli, 284 Sorrento, 241 Suessa, 19. Teanum, 32 Amsanctus, lake of, 332 Amycke, Greek city of, now destroyed, 12 Amyclanus Lacus, now the lake of Fondi, 1 1 Anacapri, village of, 246 Anagni, town of (Anagnia), 23 Ancient architecture and art, xxxi Ancinale, river (Caecinus), 375, 390 Ancona to Naples, 47 Andrea, S., village of, 390 Andrew of Hungary, his murder at Aversa, 20. His tomb, 91 Anuria, city of, 345 Angelo, S., Punta, one of the S. promontories of Ischia, 315 , Monte, town and sanc- tuary of, on Monte Gargano, 338 , Monte, near Castellam- mare, 237 Angitiae Lucus, on the lake of Celano, 61 Angitola, stream, 375 Angri, town of, 260 Angulus, city of, now Civita Santangelo? 50 Anjou, sovereigns of the house of, their “ Acts,” 1 52 Annunziata, Torre dell’, 192 Anspach, villa, on the hill of Posilipo, 160 Anticaglia, the ruins of a Ro- man theatre at Naples, 77 s 3 394 INDEX. ANTIGNANO. Antignano, village of, near Naples, 166 Antinum, city of, now Civita d’Antino, 58 Antiquities of Naples, 76. At Sorrento, 241. At Capri, 245. Antonio, S., Festa di, 90 Antrodoco, town and pass of, 36 Antullo, Pozzo di, 25 Anversa, village of, 43 Anxanum, now Lanciano, 51 Anxur, now Terracina, 10 Apollo, temple of, at Cumae, 30 2 Apothecaries at Naples, 68 Appia, via, 3 Apragopoli, 247 Apricena, 33 7 Apulian system of agriculture, xxiv Aqueducts, ancient : — iEsernia, 46 Carseoli, 63 Naples, 77 Paestum, 269 Julian, 77, 274, 277 ; branch thereof to Puteoli, 284 At Taranto, 3 49 , modern : — Caroline, 318 Cava, 264 Corigliano, 387 Naples, 84 Of the Sarno under Pompeii, 195,219 Aquila, city of, 3 7. Churches, 57,38. Palaces, 38. Citadel, 38. Siege of, 38 Aquilonia, supposed site of, now Lacedogna, 357 Aquino, village of (Aquinum), 27 Aragon, house of, tombs of the princes and princesses, 101 Arce, custom-house station, 26 , Rocca d’, or fortress of, 53 Arcera, Punta dell’, at Capri, 246 Arches, ancient : — Remains of the triumphal arches at Pom- peii, 217, 2x9. The Arco Felice at Cumas, 302. The arch of Trajan at Benevento, 327 , modern:— Triumphal, of Alfonso of Aragon, 80 Archippe, site of the ancient town of, 61 Architects, list of, xxxiii Architecture, ancient, xxxi. Mediaeval and modern, xxxii of Pompeii, public and domestic, 197 Archives of — Cava, 262 Monte Casino, 30 Montevergine, 331 Naples, 152 AURITNCA. Arco Felice at Cumae, 302 Arconte, river (Acheron), 371 Ardore, town of, 391 Arena bianca, post station, 373 Arenella. village of, near Na- ples, 166 Argyripa or Arpi, its site near Foggia, 335 Ariano, city of (Arianum), 333 Arienzo, town of, 325 Arimi, the Homeric island of, 310 Arintha (?), now Rende, 372 Aristides, statue of, 1 30 Armi, Capo dell’ (Leucopetra Promontorium), 383 Armoury at Naples, 80 Army and navy, xxi Arnetum, city of, now Polig- nano, 354 Arocho fluv., now the Crocchio, 389 Arola, village of, 242 Arpaia, village of (Caudium), 3 25 Arpi, 335 Arpino, town of (Arpinum), 55. Villa of Cicero, 55. Cita- del, 56 Arsenal at Naples, 8r. AtCas- tellammare, 236 Arsoli, frontier station, 63 Art, ancient, xxxi Artesian wells at Naples, 84 Artists at Naples, 69 Arx Carventana, now Rocca Massima, 5 Ascou, city of (Asculum Pi- cenum), 48 , town of (Asculum Apu- lum), 33 4 Asculum Apulum, 334. Pice- num, now Ascoii, 48 Aspromonte, 383, 391, 3 92 Assi, river, the ancient Ele- porus, 390 Astroni, crater and royal chace of, 308 Ate! la, now S. Elpidio, birth- place of Pulcinella, 21 , in Basilicata, 358 , river, 358 Atellanse Fabulae, 21 Atena(Atina), village of, in the Val di Diano, 366 Aterno, river ( Aternus), 35, 40, 49. 52 Atina, town of, 57 Atrani, town of, 257 Atrx, city of (Hadria Picena), 5° Atrio del Cavallo, 170, 186 Atripalda, town of, 329, 357 Aufidus, now the Ofanto, 340, 557 Auletta, town of, 366 Aulon, hill of, 349, 350 Aurunca, remains of, 19 BASILICATA. Ausente, river, 17 Ausona, supposed site of, 17 Aveia, site and remains of, at Fossa, 40 Avella, town of (Abella), 331 Avellino, city of (Abellinum), 33 2 to Salerno, 329 Avernus, lake of, 289 Baths, 292 Aversa, town of, 20 Avetrana, village of, 351 Avezzano, town of, 58 Avigliano, town of, 362 E. Babbage, Mr., on the crater of Vesuvius after the eruption of 1822, 183. On the subsi- dence and elevation of the coast of Pozzuoli, 277. On the Serapeon, 282. On the mole of Puteoli, 283 Bacoli, village, 295 Badolato, village of, 390 Bagnara, town of, 380 Bagnoli, village and mineral waters of, 164 Baiae, bay and ruins of, 293 Baiano, village of, 41, 331 Balzorano, village and castle of, 57 Bandusia, fountain of, 361 Bankers at Naples, 67 Bantia, 361 Baoli, village of (Bauli), 295 Barano, village, 315 Barbaro, Monte (MonsGaurus), 306 Barberini, their castle at Avez- zano, 58 BARr, city and port of (Bari- um), 344. History, 344. Ca- thedral, churches, 345 to Brindisi, 354 Barile, village of, 358, 377 Barium, city of, now Bari, 344 Barletta, town and port of (Barduli), 342 Baronisi, village of, 13, 330 Baronius, cardinal, birthplace of, 57 Barra, village of, 169 Barracks for the troops at Pom- peii, 232 Barrea, village of, 44 Bartolo, Sebastiano, birthplace of, 164 Basento, or Vasento (Casuen- tus), river, 273, 362, 385 Basile, S., post-station, 347 Basilica (Augustalis), at Na- ples, site of, 108. Of Paestum, 270. Of Pompeii, 221 Basilicata, province of, 357 INDEX, 395 BASILIO. Basilio, S., post station, 347 , village of, 385 Baths, ancient On the banks of Avernus, 292. Bagni di Tritoli, 293. Stufe di Ne- rone, 293. At Baiae, 295. At Ischia, 316. At Pompeii, 217, 226. At Pozzuoli, 284 , modern : — At Paterno. 36. Stufe di San Germano, 307. At Ischia, 316. At S. Biagio, 374. AtTelese, 322. Baths at Naples, 70. Batinus, river, now Tordino, 48 Battipaglia, village of, 267, 365 Battles of— the Alaro, 390 Aquila, 38 Ascoli, 334 Benevento, 328 Campomorto, 7 Oivitate, 324 S. Flaviano, 48 the Garigliano, 18 Heracleia, 385 the Lautulaa, 11 Lepanto, 15 Maida, 3 75 Numistro, 357 Rocca Secca, 27 Sarno, 260 Scafati, 260 Seminara, 379, 380 Tagliacozzo, 62 Troia, 336 Velletri, 4 Bella, town of, 358 Bellizzi, village of, 329 Belmonte, village of, 31, 57, 372 Belsito, village of, 373 Belvedere, town of, 372 Benedetto, San (the ancient Marruvium), 61 Benevento, city of, 326. His- tory, 327. Antiquities, ca- thedral, churches, citadel, 327. Bridges, 328. Battle of, 328. Biagio, San, village and hot- baths of, 374 Bianco, village of, 392 Biblioteca Borbonica, 1 50. Brancacciana, 151 ; dell’ University, and de’ Girolo- mini, 152 Bifemo, river, 323 Bisaccia, town of, 357 Bisceglie, town and fort of, 343 Bisign ano, town of, 369 Bitetto, town of, 347, 363 Bitonto, town of (Butuntum), 346 Bivona, village, 376 Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), at Capri, 246 BUSENTO. Boats and boatmen at Naples, 70 at Sorrento, 240 Bocca di Fiume, 9 Bohemond, his tomb at Canosa, 340 Boiano, town of (Bovianum), 323 Bolognano, village of, 52 Books on Naples, xxxvii Booksellers at Naples, 68 Borghetto, village of, 36 Bosco del Mauro, 182. Reale, 182, 183, 184. Tie Case, 182. Di Varcaturo (Sylva G alli- naria), 306. Dell’ Abadia, 361 Botanic garden at Naples, 120 Bova, town of, 384 Bovalino, village of, 392 Bovianum, city of, now Boiano, 323 Bovino, city of (Yibinum), 334 , Ponte di, post station, 334 Braccio Fortebraccio, his first encounter with Sforza, 51. His defeat and death, 38 Bradano, river (Bradanus), 362, 363, 364, 384 Brancaleone, village of, 392 Bridges, ancient : — Bridge of Diocletian at Lanciano, 51. Over the Lins, near Isola, 55. Della Catena at Cora, 6. At Torre Tre Pond, 8. At Sessa, 19. Over the Sarre- tella, 326. Over the Sab- bato (Ponte Lebroso), 328. Over the Calore, 367. , modern; — Ponte della Valle (aqueduct of Caserta), 318. Of the Garigliano, sus- pension bridge, 18. Della Maddalena, di Chiaia, della Sanity, dell’ Immacolatella at Naples. 79. Maggiore, 239. Di Campestrino, 366. Di Bovino, 334. Della Luna, 343. Di Civitate, 324. S. Maria degli Angeli at Bene- vento, 326. Del Calore, 328. Gennariui, 347. At Gallipoli, 356. Lomito, 357. S. Giu- liano, 364. Di Campestrino, 366. Brigands at Cisterna, 7. Fondi, Itri, 13. Of Capitanata, 334 Brindisi, city of (Brundusium), 355 to Lecce, 355 British hospital at Naples, 121 Bronzes, gallery of, in Museum, U 4 , collection of small, 140 Brundusium, now Brindisi, 354 Bruzzano, Capo di (Zephyrium Promontorium), 392 Busento, river, 370 CANDELAEO. Buthronus, river, now the No- vito, 390 C. Caecinus fluv., the Amendolea, 383, 390 Caecubus ager, near Fondi, 12 Caelia, now Ceglie, 347 Cafes of Naples, 66 Caianiello, osteria of, 31,319 Caieta, the nurse of iEneas, her burial-place, 15 Caietani family, 8 Caiazzo, town of (Calatia), 319 Calabritto, village of, 357 Caldarelle, Acqua delle, at Te- ano, 32 Calela, now Casacalenda, 323 Cales, now Calvi, 32 Caligula, his bridge of boats, 283 Calimera, villages of, in Cala- bria, 377. In the Terra d'Otranto, 352 Calore, river, 322, 327,328,329, 332, 357. 36 6 Calvi, village of (Cales), 32 Camaldoli, monasteries of the, on the slope of Vesuvius, 192. Near Naples, 167, Near Arola, 242. Near Maiori, 259 Cameos and intagli in the Mu- seum, 138 Cammarata, post-station, 369 Campagna, town of, 357 of Rome, 3 Campagnano, village of, 322 Campana, Monte, extinct crater of, 307 Campanella, Punt a della (Pro- montorium Minerva;), 243, 249 Campanian system of agricul- ture, xxxiv Campi, village of, 352 Campiglione, the plain of the crater of Monte Barbaro, 306 Campobasso, city of, 323 Campolicto, post station, 323 Campomorto, the scene of a battle in 1482, and cattle farm of, 7 Campora, village of, near Age- rola, 257 Camposanto, at Naples, 117 Campotenese, 368 Canales, now Castellaneta, 364 Cancello, village and castle of, 3 17 Cancroni, ravine of, 179 Candela, village, 334 Candelaro, river, 338 396 INDEX. CANE. CASTRO V1LLARI. CERIGLIO. Cane, Grotta del, 307 Canistro, village of, 58 Canna, river, 385 Cannae, site of, 341. Battles of, 341 Cauneto, torrent, 253 Canosa, town of (Canusium), J4° Cantalupo, village of, 323 Cantelice, village of, 34 Canusium, now Canosa, 340 Capaccio Yecchio and Nuovo, villages of, 269 Capes— dell’ Armi, 383 Bruno, 236 Bruzzano, 392 Castella, 389 delle Cimiti, 389 delle Colonne, 388 Orlando, 236 d’ Orso, 260 Pellaro, 383 Rizzuto, 389 di Sorrento, 242 Spartivento, 383, 392 Suvero, 372, 37 3 del Tumolo, 260 Yaticano, 376 di S. Vito, 350 Capistrano, town of, 41 Capistrello, village of, 58 Capitanata, origin of the name, 335 Capo di Chino, at Naples, 21, '78 Capo di Monte, royal palace of, 154. Festa di, 89 , di Monte, at Anacapri, 246 Cappadocia, village, 62 Caprara, one of the Tremiti islands, 324 Capri, Island of, 244. Inns, boats, 244. Village, 244. History, 244. Antiquities and ruins, 245. Anacapri, 246. Blue Grotto, 246. Grotto of the Stalactites, 241, Green Grotto, 247. Military operations, 248. Products, 248 Capua, ancient, 320 , modern, 20 Capuano, Castel, at Naples, 82 Capurso, village of, 347 Carabba, osteria of, 52 Carapelle, river, and post sta- tion, 337. 33 8, 339 Cardinale, village of, 331, 375 Cardit 4lo, royal farm of, 321 Cariati, town of, 387 Cariddi, river, 377 Carlo, San, opera-house of, at Naples, 86 Carmine, Castel del, 83. Church of, 109 Carosino, /village of, 351 Carotto, town of, 239 Carouba, cultivation of, xxix. Carovigno, village of, 354 Carpenzano, post-station of, 373 Carriages for hire at Naples, 70 Carsoli, village of (Carseoli), 63 Casacalenda, town of, 323 Casal S. Michele, village of, 347 Casalbore, village of, 329 Casalnuovo, village of, near Naples, 317- In Principato Citra, 367. In Calabria Citra, 386. Town of, in Calabria Ultra I., 391 Casaltrinith, village of, 338 Casamari, suppressed monas- tery of, 25 Casamassima, town of, 347 Casamicciola, village of, 3 13 Cascano, village of, T9 Cascia, town of,' 34 Caserta, city of, 318. Royal palace of, 318. Aqueduct of, Ji8 Yecchia, 318 Casilinum, ancient city of, now Capua, 20 Casino Chiriaco, post station, 374 Casinum, now San Germano, 28 Cassano, town of (Cosa), 369, 386 Cassiodorus, his birthplace, 389 Castel Fiorentino, death of Frederick II. at, 337 del Monte, 346 di Sangro, 44 Castella, Capo, 389 Castellabate, village of, 272 Castellammare, town of, 50, 234. Mineral waters, 236 della Bruca (Yelia), 27 3 Castellaneta, city of (Ca- nales), 364 Castel le, Capo delle, 389 Castelli, village, 50 Castello, village, 320 Castellone di Gaeta (Formiae), 14 Castellonorato, village of, 17 Castelluccio, village of, 25, 26, 334. 366 , town of, 368 Castelvecchio, valley of, 48, 52 Castelvetere, town of (Cau- lon?), 390 Castiglione, village of, 369 Castles at Naples, 79 Castrignano, village, 353 Castro, town of, Castrum Mi- ner vae, 353 Castro di ^Yalva, village of, 43 Castrovillari, town of, 368 to Catanzaro, by the coast, 386 Casuentus. See Basento Catacombs of Naples, 76. Jew- ish, at Venosa, 361 Catanzaro, city of, 374 Marina, or port of, 389 to Reggio, 389 Catapan, the title of the By- zantine governor of Apulia, 335 Caterina, Santa, village of, in Calabria, 390 Cathedrals of — Altramura, 363 Amalfi, 253 Anagni, 23 Ascoli, 48 Bari, 345 Benevento, 327 Brindisi, 355 Cosenza, 371 Fermo, 47 Gaeta, 15 Gerace, 390 Lanciano, 51 Lecce, 352 Lucera, 336 Matera, 364 Melfi, 359 Naples, 90 Nardo, 356 Otranto, 353 Pozzuoli, 279 Ravello, 258 Ruvo, 346 Salerno, 265 Sessa, 19 Taranto, 348 Teramo, 49 Terracina, 10 Traui, 343 Yelletri, 5 Caudine Forks, the (Furculse Caudinse), 325 Caudium, town of, now Ar- paia, 325 Caulonia, site of, 390 Cava, town and convent of, 262. Church, archives, and library, 263 Cavaliere, frontier station, 63 Ceglie, village of (Caelia), 347 Celano, lake of (Fucinus), 58. Draining-works, 59. Emis- sary of Claudius, 59. Celano, town and castle of, 60 Celsi, village, 329 Cemeteries at Naples, 117 , ancient, at Puteoli, 285. At Cumse, 303. At Canosa, 341. At Yenosa, 361 Cenci, Beatrice, her execution, 40 Cento Camerelle, the, at Baoli, 296 Ceprano, town of, 26 Cerfennia, Roman station of, 61 Cerreto, town of, 322 1 Ceriglio, in Ischia, 314 INDEX. | 397 CERIGNOLA. Cerignola, city of, 33 9 Certosa di S. Martino, at Na- ples, 1 1 2. at Capri, 245 di S. Lorenzo, in the Val di Diano, 367. di S. Stefano del Bosco, 3 78 di Trisulti, 25 Cervaro, river in Apulia, 338 , stream, at Taranto, 349 , village of, 31, 33 4 Cetara, village of, 260 Cetraro, town of, 3 72 Charybdis, the locality of, 780 Chiaiano, village of, near Na- ples, 167 Chiaravalle, village of, 390 Chieti, city of, 52 Chieuti, village of, 3 24 Chinese college at Naples, 118 Chiunzo, Torre and Monte di, 249 Chiupeto, Punta di, 309 Choeradas insulas, 349 Christmas festivities at Naples, 89 Chronological tables, xxxix Church, English, at Naples, 67 Churches at Naples, 90-117 Cicero, Marcus Tullius : — His birthplace, 55. His Arpine villa, and Amalthea, 55. His Formian villa, 14. His Acca - demia at Puteoli, 283.' His tomb at Mola di Gaeta, 14 Cicolano district, 39 Cigliano, Monte, extinct crater of, 307 Cimiti, Capo delle, 389 Cimitile, village of, 331 Cinquecento collection, 136 Cinquefrondi, village of, 379 Cinquemiglia, Piano di, 44 Circam, city of, now San Fe- lice (?), n Circaeum Prom. (Monte Cir- cello), 11 Cirella, town of, 372 Ciro, town of, 387 Cisterna, town of, 7, 331 Civita, village, 369 Civita Ducale, town of, 35 d’Antino, village of (An- tinum), 58 Lavinia, 4 di Penne, town of (Pinna), 5o Retenga, 41 Santangelo, 50 Civitella di Roveto, 58 ClVITELLA DEL TjROKTO, town and castle of, 49 Clanius river, 306 Climate of Naples, 75 Club at Naples, 68 Coglianello, village of, 357 Cogliano, village of, 357 Coinage of Naples, xlvi CRUCOLI. Coll’ Armele, 41, 60 Colie Noci, 26 Colleges at Naples : — Chinese, 11 8. Music, 1 19. Medico- chirurgical, 119 Collepardo, grotto of, near Alatri, 25 Colli, hamlet, 63 Collicelli, a hamlet near the site of Falacrinum, 35 Colonna, village of, the ancient Labicum, 22 Colonne, Capo delle (Lacinium Promontorium), 388 Commerce of the kingdom, xxix Compass, the mariner’s, claim of Amalfi to its discovery examined, 255 Conca, town and port, 256 Condofuri, village of, 384 Condoianni, village, 391 Consuls, foreign, at Naples, 67 Contrada, village of, 329 Conversano, city of, 347, 354 Copiae, the Roman colony of Thurii, 386 Coppito, village of, 35, 37 Cora, city of, 5 Corace, river, 373, 374, 389 Coraci, post station, 373 Corato, town of, 346 Corfinium, the capital of the Peligni, 41 Corigliano, town of, 387 Corioli, 4 Corn, cultivation, &c., xxviii. Corno, valley of, 34 Corno, Monte (the Gran Sasso d’ltalia), 49 Coroglio, Punta di, 164 Cosa, city of, now Cassano, 369 Coscile, river (Sybaris), 368, 3 86 Cosenza, city of (Consentia), 370 Costa della Guardia, mountain, 390 Cotrone, town and fortress of (Crotona), 388. History, military operations, 388 Cotton-plant, cultivation of, xxix. Couriers’ carriages and dili- gences, lii. Covella, countess of Celano, 60 Crapolla, near Sorrento, 242 Cratseis fluv., now the Solano, 380 Crati, river (Crathis), 369, 3 70, 371, 386 Crimissa, city of, now Cirb, J87 Crimis3a Promontorium, now Punta dell’ Alice, 387 Crocchio, river (Arocho), 389 Crotona, city of, now Cotrone, I 388 Crucoli, village of, 387 EGNAZIA. Cumae, city of, 300. History, 300. Citadel, Sibyl’s Cave, 301. Sibyl’s Tomb, Temples, Arco Felice, 302. Necropolis, 303 Cumanus, Sinus, the gulf of Puteoli, 300 Cuospito, near Amalfi, 256 Cupra Montana, Etruscan city of, 48 Currant, cultivation of the, xxix Custom-house, modern (Po- gana), xlvi CutiliEe, Pelasgic city and' lake of, 36 Cutro, town of, 389 Cyclopean constructions, see Pelasgic and Polygonal. D. Daria, river, 384 Date-palm, cultivation of the, xxix. At Reggio, 381. At Gallipoli, 356. At Taranto, 349 Davoli, village of, 390 Davy, sir Humphry, his expe- riments on the papyri, 138. Dentecane, village of, 332 Dentists at Naples, 68 Deserto, suppressed convent, 242 Diamante, town of, 372 Diano, town of (Tegianum) 367 , Yal di, 366 Dicaearchia, Puteoli, 278 Diligences and mails from Naples, lii Dinami, village, 377 Dino, island of, 372 Dipinte, city of, now Lugnano ? 22 Dockyard and arsenal at Na- ples, 81. At Castellammare, 236 Dragone, torrent, 230 Ducenta, village and castle, 322 Ducentola, village of, 298 Duchessa, post station, 3 66 Dueporte, village of, near Na- ples, 166 E. Eboli, town of, 366 Ecclesiastical establishment, xxii Education, general system of, xxiii Egnazia, Torre d’ (Gnatia), 354 398 INDEX. EGYPTIAN. Egyptian Antiquities, gallery t of, 126 Eiano, river of, 369, 386 Electric telegraph at Naples, 67 Eleporus, now the river Assi, 19° Elia, St., village of, near San Germano, 3 1, 57 , church of, at Furore, 256 Elmo, Sant’, castle of, at Na- ples, 82 Elpidio, S., village of (Atella), 20 Elysian Fields, the, 299 Emoli, river, 172 Environs of Naples, 160-168. See p. viii. Epomeo, Monte, 310, 315 Equa, village of, 238 Erchia, hamlet of, 260 Eruptions of Vesuvius, 172 Esaro, river (iEsarus), 388 Eufemia, S., monastery and village of, 37?, 574 , gulf of, 372, 374 Excursions from Naples, 168- 321. See p. viii. from Sorrento, 242. F. Fabrateria, city of, now Falva- terra, 26 Faggiano, village of, 351 Faicchio, village of, 322 Falernus ager, 19 Falvaterra, village of (Fabra- teria), 26 Faraglioni, rocks near Capri, 247 Fasano, town of, 354 Fata Morgana of the Bay of Reggio, 382 Favazzina, village of, 380 Fele, S., town of, 358 Felice, San, town of (Circaeii?), 11 Ferentino, town of (Ferenti- num), 23 Ferentum, now Forenza, 361 Fermo, city of (Firmum Pice- num), 47 Feronia, grove, temple, and fountain of, 10 Festivals: — Popular and church festivals at*Naples, 88. Di Piedigrotta, 88. I)i Monte Vergine, di Madonna dell’ Arco, di Capodimonte, 89. At Positano, 242. Di S. Michele, at Procida, 309. Di Santa Restituta, at Ischia, 3 14. Di S. Michele on Monte Gargano, 338 Fibreno, river (Fibrenus), 54 , Cartiera del, paper-mills, 54 FDSCALDO. Fig, cultivation of, xxix, 343 Filadelfia, town of, 375 Filandari, village, 377 Filbert, cultivation of, 332 Finestra, Monte, near Cava, 262 Finisterra, Capo di, 353 Fisheries, xxx Fiumara, rivulet, 360 Fiumarel la, torrent, 374 Fiumefreddo, town of, 372 Fiumenica, Punta, 387 Fizzo, village of, 318 Flaviano, S., ruins and battle of, 48 Foggia, city of, 335 Fondi, town of (Fundi), 12 Fontana, village of, 54 Formian villa of Cicero (Villa Caposele), 14 Forca Carusa, 41, 61 Forchia, village of, 326 Forenza, village of (Ferentum), 36 1, 362 Forto, town of, in Ischia, 314 Fornelli, 52 Foro Appio (Forum Appii), 9 Fortore, river (Frento), 324 Forum, the, at Pompeii, 219. Triangular forum, 228. Fossa, village of (Aveia), 40 Fossanuova, Cistercian mo- nastery of, 9 Fosso Grande, one of the ra- vines on Vesuvius, 179, 182, 184, 186 della Vetraria, 183 Fountains at Naples, 83 , ancient, at Pompeii, 21 1, 217 Fra Diavolo, the brigand, 13, 330 Fragagnano, village of, 351 Francavilla, town of, in the Terra d'Otranto, 351. Village in Calabria, 275, 386. In Abruzzo, 51 Fratte, le, village of, 17 Frattocchie, le, 3 Fregellae, site of, near Ceprano, 26 Frento, now the river Fortore, 324 Frescoes, ancient, at Naples, 124 Frigento, town of, 332 Frontiers of the kingdom, xi Frosinone, city of (Frusino), 24 Fucinus lacus, the lake of Ce- lano, 58. See Celano. Fumo, Punta di, 299 Fundi, city of, now Fondi, 12 Fuorigrotta, suburb of, 163 Furculae Caudinae, the Caudine Forks, 325 Furore, town of, 256 f’usaro, lake of (Palus Ache- rusia), 299 Fuscaldo, town of, 372 GIULIA. Gr. Gaeta, city and citadel of ( Caieta), 15 Gajola, La, at Posilipo, 164 Galatina, town of, 356 Galatone, town of, 356 Galdo, village of, 3 66 Galesus, now the river Cervaro, 349 Galleries of painting, at Naples, 126, 144. At Terlizzi, 346. of sculpture, at Naples, 127,134.140 Galliciano, village of, 384 Gallipoli, city of (Callipolis), 356 Gallo, 331 Gargano, Monte (Garganus), 337. 338 Garigiiano, river, 17, 18, 26; battle of the, 18 , post station, 18 Garopoli, village of, 377 Gates. See Porta of Pompeii, 196 Gaudo, Monte, near Licola, 304 Gaurus, Mons, now Monte Bar- baro, 306 Gems, cabinet of, in the Museo, 138 Gennaro, S. (St. Januarius), his festa, 90. Chapel, 91, 92. Tabernacle containing the blood, 93. Liquefaction, 93 Gennaro, S., church of, 77 Genosa, town of (Genusium), 364 Genzano, town of, 4 Gerace, town of, 390 Germano, San, town of (Casi- num), 28 , stufe di, 307 Gerunium, 323 Giacomo, S., Vigni di, 343 Giardinetto, plain of, 334 Giffoni, village of, 330, 365 Gioia, Flavio, the reputed dis- coverer of the mariner’s compass at Amalfi, 255. His birthplace, 255, 256 , town of, in Calabria (Me- taurum), 379. In Terra di Bari, 347. In Abruzzo, 44 Giojosa, town of, 390 Giorgio, S., village of, 351 Giovanni, Villa San, village of, 381 , S., in Carico (custom- house), 26 , S., Rotondo, village, 339 Giovenazzo, town of (Natio- lum), 344 Giovenco, river (Pitouius), 61 Giovi, Monte, 4 Giulia Nuova (Castrum No- vum), 48 INDEX. 399 GIULIANELLO. Giulianello, village and lake of, 5 Giuliano, San, village of, 323 Gizio, river, 41, 4? Glasses, ancient, collection of, in Museo Borbonico, 1 36 Gnatia, now Torre d'Egnazia, 3*4 Goriano Sicoli, village of, 41, 61 Gorio, village of, 384 Government, general and local, xvii Gradillo, descent of, 319 Gragnano, village of, 237 Granatello, fort and mole of, - 169 Grandella, plain of, at Bene- vento, 328 Gran Sasso d’ltalia (Monte Corno), 43, 49. Ascent of, 49 Gravina, city of (Plera), 363 di Leucaspiti, 347 Greci, Albanian village of, 334 Greek (ancient) architecture, xxxi Gregory VII. (Hildebrand), his death and tomb at Salerno, 265 Grotta Minarda, village of, 332 (caverns) Azzurra, the Blue Grotto at Capri, 246 Verde (the Green Grotto) and of the Stalactites, 247 del Cane, 307 of Cava, 263 of Collepardo, 25 Giulia, or the Sibyl’s Cave, 291 della Maga, n d’Opi, 26 delle Osse, on the Lu- canian coast, 273 — — di Pietro della Pace, at Cumae, 303 di Posilipo, 160 di Seiano, 166 Dragonara, 298 degli Sportiglioni, 331 Grotte, le, 332 Grotteria, town of, 390 Grottole, village of, 364 Grottoni di Mappa (amphi- theatre), at Benevento, 327 Grumentum, site of, 367 Grumo, village of, 363 Guardavalle, village of, 390 Guardia, village of, 369 delle Sole, 322 Guglionesi, village of, 324 Gurgitello, the, spring in Ischia, 3i3 H. Hadria Picena, now Atri, 50 Hamae, forest of (Triviae Lu- cus), 304 I ISCHIA. Hazel-nut, cultivation of, xxix I Heles fluvius, now the Alento, I 273 I Heracleia, site of, 385 j Heracleian Tables, 142, 385 Herculaneum, 188. History, | 188 gate, at Pompeii, 196, 206 , objects from, at Naples, 124 142 Hercules, the Farnese, 133 Herculis Promontorium, now Capo Spartivento, 383, 392 Hildebrand, pope. See Gregory VII. Hipponium, now S. Pietro di Vibona, 376 Histonium, town of, now Vasto, 5i Historical topography of Na- ples, 72 Horace, his birthplace, 360. Remarks on Barium, 344. On the Pontine Marshes, 9. On the fountain of Feronia, 10. On the situation of Anxur, 10 Hospitals of Naples, 120 Houses of Pompeii, 206 Humboldt on the measure- ments of Punta del Palo, 187 I. Iapygium, Promontorium, now Capo di Leuca, 353 Iapygum tria Promontoria, 389 latrinoli, village of, 379 Idro, stream, 352 Ierocarne, village of, 377 Ilario, S., river, 391 Illustrious Men, Hall of, in Museum, 13 1 Imele, river, 62 Inarime, Virgil’s name of Is- chia, 309 Inns, liv. At Naples, 64 Inscriptions, collection of, in the Museum, 132 Interamna Lirinas (Terame?), 17, 28 , now Teramo, 49 Intennonti, gorge of, 53 Interocrea, now Antrodoco, 36 Ionadi, village of, 377 Irno, river, 330 Iron-mines of Stilo, 360 foundries of Mongiana, 378 Isca, village of, 390 Ischia, island of (Pithecusa : JEnaria), volcanic action and history, 309. Productions, 312. Mineral waters, 312. Casamicciola, 313. Lacco, 314. Forio, 314. Panza, 315. Moropano, 315. Town of LACTARIUS. Ischia, 315. Volcanic erup- tions in, 175, 316. Lake, 316. Baths, 316, 317 Isdero, river, 326 Iseon at Pompeii, 230 Isernia, town of (iEsernia), 45 Islands of: — Capri, 244 Carnello, 55 Dino, 372 Ischia, 309 Licosa, 272 Nisida, 166 San Paolo, 54 St. Peter and St. Paul (Choe- radse), 349 Ponza group, 16 Procida, 308 San Stefano, 17 Of the Syrens, 249 Tremiti (Diomedese), 324 Ventotene, 17 Vivara, 309 Isola, village of, 49 Isola di Sora, town of, 54 , town of, in Calabria, 389 Isoletta, custom-house station of, 26 Issus, battle of, great msoaic of the, 130 Itri, town of, 13 J. Januarius, St. See Gennaro, San Julia, daughter of Augustus, banished to Pandataria, 17 , wife of Lepidus and grand-daughter of Augustus, her exile in the Insulae Dio- medeae, 324 Felix, villa of, at Pompeii, 233 Justice, and courts of law, xix Juvenal : — his birthplace, 27. His remarks on Sora, 57. On Aquinum, 27. On the rob- bers of the Via Appia, 7. On the oysters of Circaeii, n. On Procida, 309 L. Lacco, village of, in Ischia, 3 14 Lacedogna, town of (Aquilo- nia?), 357 Lacinium Promontorium, now Capo delle Colonne or Capo Nau, 388 Lacrima Christi, the wine, 188 Lactarius, Mons, 237 490 INDEX, L^ESTRYGONES. LUZZI. MASANIELLO. Laestrygones, city and wine of the, 15 Lagaria, city of, now Nocara ? 3 85 Lago Pesole, Castel di, 358 Lagonegro, town of, 367 Laino, town of, 368 Lake of Agnano, 307 • Amsanctus, 332 Avernus, 289 Celano, or Fucino, 58 Cutilias, 36 • Dragonli, 329 • Fondi (Lacus Amycla- nus), 11. Fusaro, 299 Giulianello, 5 Ischia, 316 Licola, 291, 304 • Lucrinus, 292 Matese, 319 Pesole, 358 Pife di Luco,33 Posta, 57 Salpi, 3 38 Scanno, 43 Serino, 368 Del Tolfilo, volcanic chasm, 380 Telese, 322 Lame, 363 Lamato, river, 373, 374 La Montea, mountain of, 372 Lampetes, now Capo Suvero, _ 373 Lanciano, towm, 51 Landro, stream, 362 Lannoy, Charles de, his tomb, ii5 Lanuvium (Civita Lavinia ?), 4 Lao, river (Laus), 368 Largo, the Neapolitan name for Square or Piazza:— in Na- ples, 83 La ring, city of (Larinum), 324 Latiano, village of, 351 Lato, river, 384 Lauduni, village of, 322 Laureana, village of, 379 Lauria, town of, 367 Laurino palace, at Naples, 157 Lauro, ch. of the Madonna del, 239 Lauropoli, hamlet of, 386 Lautulas, Roman pass at Terra- cina, 11 Lava-currents : — of Vesuvius, 172-185. Of llocca Monjina, 19. Of the Solfatara, 287. Of Ischia, 314, 316. Of Monte Volture, 360 Lavello, town of, 362 Laviano, town and castle of, 357 Lazzaroni of Naples, 85 Lecce, city of (Lupiae), 352 to Gallipoli, 356 Le Grotte, vEclanum, 332 Lene, village, 256 Leonessa, town of, 34 Lequile, village of, 356 Lettere, village of, 237 Leuca, Capo di (Iapygium or Salentinum Promontorium), 353 Leuca, S. Maria di (Leuca), 353 Leucio, San, village of, 318 Leucogei, Monti, near the Sol- fatara, 287 Leucopetra Promontorium, now Capo dell’ Armi, 383 Leucosia Insula, now Licosa, , 2 7 2 Liberatore, S., hill near Sa- lerno, 264 Libraries.— Of the monastery of Cava, 262. Of Monte Casino, 30. At Naples, 150. At Brin- disi, 355. At Foggia, 335. At Reggio, 381 Licola, Lago di, 304 Liquorice root, cultivation of, xxix Licosa, Pun tadi (Promontorium Posidium), 272 , island of (Leucosia), 272 Lipuda, river, 387 Liris, river, 17. Becomes the Garigliano after its junction with the Tolero, 26. Falls of the, at Isola, 54. Source of, 62 Lista, Pelasgiccity of, 35 Liternum, now Patria, 304 Livy, on the Caudine Forks, 325 Locano, river (Locanus), 390 Locri Epizephyrii, site of, 391 Lodgings at Naples, 65 Lombardi, S. Angelo de’, town of, 357 Lomito, bridge of, 357 Longianum, city of (Lugnano?), 22 Longobuco, village of, 371 Lottery, the, at Naples, 90 Lucanian coast, 272 Lucenses, now Luco, 61 Lucera, city of (Luceria), 336. Cathedral, castle, 336 Lucia, Santa, village of, 264 Lucido, San, town of (Temesa), 372 Luco, village of (Lucenses), 61 Lucrine lake, the, 292 Lucullus, his villa at Nisida, 166. On the promontory of Misenum, 298 Lugnano, village of (Longia- num or Dipinte), 22 Luogovivo, the Aulon of Ho- race ? 350 Lupatia, sub, station on the Appian, 36? Luperano, village, 350 Lupise, now Lecce, 352 Luzzi, village of, 369 M. Macchia, hamlet of, 46 Maddaloni, town of, 317 Maga, Grotta della, 1 1 Magliano, village of, 62 Maida, town and battle of, 375 Maio, villa, at Naples, 160 Maiori, town of, near Amalfi, ,259 Majella mountains, 52 Mala Cupa, valley of, 52 Mallespostes, lii, 66 Mammola, town 0^390 Mammone, the brigand, 13 Mamurrarum Urbs, 14 Manduria, town of, 351 Manduria, well of, celebrated by Pliny, 351 Manfredonia, city of, 338 to Barletta, 338 Manna, -production of, xxix Manufactures, xxix Maps of the kingdom, xxxviii Marano, town of, near Naples, 167 Marapoti, village of, 3 79 Mare Grande and Mare Piccolo at Taranto, 348 Morto, the port of Mise- num, 297 Marechiano, cove of, at Posilipo, 164 Marepotamo, river, 378 Margone, 49 Maria, S., de’ Polsi, monastery, 392 Marigliano, town of (Maria- num), 331 Marinella, the, at Naples, 85 Marius, Caius, his birthplace, 55. His concealment in the marshes of Minturnse, 18 Market at Naples (Largo del Mercato), 83. Fish-market, 85 Marmo, river, 362 Marro, river (Metaurus Bruti- orum), 379 Marruvium, the capital of the Marsi, now San Benedetto, 61 Marsi, the, their ancient skill as serpent-charmers inhe- rited by their descendants, 59 Martano, village of, 352 Martina, town of, 350 Martin Sicuro, custom-house, 48 Martino, S., Certosa di, at Naples, 112 Masaniello, insurrection of, 83, 100. Picture of the insur- rection, 148. His portrait by Micco Spadaro, 148. His birthplace, 257. His supposed house, at Atrani, 257. His grave, 109 INDEX, 401 MASSA. Massa Lubrense, city of, 24? Massafra, village and caverns of ’ *47 Massicus, Mons, now Monte Massico, 19 Materdomini, village and mo- nastery of, at Nocera, 262 Matera, city of, 364 Matese mountains, ascent of, 319, 322 Matino, village of, 354 Matinus Mons (Mattinata ?), m Mattinata, village of, on Monte Gargano (Mons Matinus), 339 Mattine di Potenza, 3 63 Mazarin, cardinal, birthplace of, 61 Measures, modern, in use, xlviii • at Pompeii, 220 Medals, collection of, in the Museo, 140 Medical school, ancient, of Cro- tona, 388. Of Salerno, in the middle ages, 266. Modern college and school at Naples, 1 19 Medma, site of, 379 Megano, gulf of, near Scala, 258 Melfa, river (Melfes), 27, 45, 57, Inn of, 27 Melfi, city and castle of, 358 Melicuch, village of, 377 Melissa, village of, 387 Melito, village of, 384 Mendocino, town (Pandosia Brutiorum), 371 Mercante, Passo del, 391 Mercato, village of, 39, 329 Mercato di Sabato, at Baoli, 296 Mercogliano, village of, 331 Mergellina, at Naples, 160 Merico, river, 391 Mesa, post-station (AdMedias), 9 Mesagne, town of (Messapia ?), 3 55 Mesima, river, 377, 378, 3 79 Messapia, city of (Mesagne?), 355 Meta, town of, 239 Metapontum, site of the city of, 385 Metaurus Brutiorum, now the Marro, 379 Michael, S., sanctuary of, on Monte Gargano, 338 Miglionico, town of, 364 Mignano, village and tavern of, Ji Mile to, city of, 377 Mileto, Monte, highest point of the Matese chain. 319 Miliscola, the beach of, at Mi- senum, 298 Minerals of Vesuvius, 187 MONTE. Minervae Promontorium, now Punta della Campanella, 243, 249 Castrum, now Castro, 353 Minervino, town of (Lucus Mi- nervae), 341 Mingardo, river, 273 Ministers, foreign, at Naples, 67 Minori, town of, near Amalfi, 259 Mintumse, ruins of, 18 Minuto, hamlet of, near Scala, 258 Mirabella, town of, 332 Miranda, town and castle of, 45 Miseni Portus (now the Mare Morto), 297 Misenum, promontory and city of, 298 Mofette, Le (lake of Amsanc- tus), 332 Moiano, village of, 242, 322, 325 Mola torrent, 63 Mola di Gaeta, 14 Mole of Pozzuoli, 282 of Bari, 344 Molfetta, city and port of, 3 43 , Pulo di (nitre cavern), 343 Molina, village, 264 Molise, province of, 322 Molo, the, at Naples, 86 Molpa, river (Melfes), 27 3 Monaca, torrent, 383 Monacone, 247 Mondragone, village of (Sinu- essa), 18, 306 Money, xlvi changers, shops of the, at Pompeii, 224 Mongiana, La, village and iron foundries of, 378 Monopoli, city of, 354 Monosterace, village of, 390 Montagnone, extinct crater of, in Ischia, 316 Montaguto, village of, 334 Montalto, village of, 369 Montaquila, village of, 46 Montauro, village of, 390 Montebello, village of, 383 Monte Casino, Benedictine ab- bey of, 29. Library, 30. Archives, 30 (mountains) : — Albumo, 269, 366 Amaro, 52 Artemisio, 4 Aspromonte, 383, 392 Astore, 378 Barbaro, 306 Cairo, 31 Calvo, 36 Campaguano, 3 15 Campana, 307 • Cantaro, 58 MONTELEONE. Monte Cavallo, 52 Cerreto (near Amalfi) 257 Chiunzo, 249 — — Cigliano, 307 Circello, 11 — — Cocuzzo, 367, 372 Corno (the Gran Sasso), 49 Crepacore, 58 Faito, 242, 250 Finestra, 262 Foi, 362 Forte, 33 1 Gargano, 338 Gaudo, 304 — — Giovi, 4 Greco, 44 Jezzo, 315 Macerone, 45 Maiella, 52 Massico, 19 Meta, 45 Mileto, 319 Montalto, 383, 392 Mon tea, 372 Morrone, 42, 52 Moscia, 389 Mucchia, 52 Mutria, 322 — — Nuovo, 288 Olibano, 277 Pagano, 50 Del Papa, 367 Pazzano, 363 Pertuso, 249 Pierno, 358 Pollino, 368 Portella, 390 Di Procida, 299 Rotaro, 316 Sabino, 368 Salviano, 58 San Elia, 367 San Franco, 49 San Nicola, 315 Sant’ Angelo (near Cas- tellammare), 234, 237, 242 — — S. Angelo (on Monte Gar- gano), 3J8 Santa Croce, 46 San Liberatore, 264 Sicco, 287 Sirino, 3 68 Solaro, 246 Somma, 170 della Stella, 273 Taburno, 322 Taborre, 316 Terminillo, 34 Velino, 58 Vergine, sanctuary of, 33 1. Festa of, 89 Vico, 314 Vulture, 359 Montecorvino, village of, 365 Monteforte, village and castle of, 331 Montefusco, town of, 332 Montejleone, town of, 376 Piana di, 377 402 INDEX. MONTEMARANO. NAPLES. NINFA. Montemarano, village of, 357 Montemesula, village of, 351 Montexniletto, town and castle of, 332 Montemurro, 3 67 Monteparano, village of, 351 Montepeloso, town of, 363 Monte reale, village of, 35 Monteroduni, village of, 46 Montesano, village of, 367 Montesardo, village, 353 Montesarchio, town of, 326 Monticcliio, forest of, 359 Monti Leucogei, near the Sol- fatara, 287 Monticelli, village of, 12 palace, at Naples, 158 Montorio, village of, 49 Montrone, town of, 347 Montuoro, valley of 329 Morano, town of (Muranum), 368 Morcone, tow T n of, 322 Moropauo, village of, in Ischia, D5 Morro Vecchio(Murrubium),34 Morrone, Monte, 42, 52 Mosaics, ancient, at Naples, 126 Moscato, wine, 343, 347 Mosellaro, village of, 52 Mottola, village of (Mateola), 347 Mountain system of agricul- ture, xxiii. Mucchia, Mount, 52 Mucone, river, 369 Mugnano, village of, 331 Mulberry, cultivation of the, xxviii. Muorno, Piano di, 363 Muranum, city of, now Mo- rano, 368 Murat, his landing and execu- tion at Pizzo, 375. Murata, village, 362 Murgie of Gravina and Alta- mura, 363. Of Minervino, 34i. 346 Muro, town and castle of, in Basilicata, 357 , town of, in Terra d’Otran- to (Sarmadium), 353 Murrubium, now Morro Vec- chio, 34 Museo Borbonico at Naples, 121. — Fees, 121. History of, 121. Plan of, 122, 123. Classification, 124. Vesti- bule, 124. Ancient frescoes, 124. Mosaics, mural inscrip- tions, and fresco ornaments, 126. Egyptian antiquities, 126. Ancient sculpture, 127. Museo Epigrafico, 132. Bronze statues, 134. Cinque- cento collection, 136. Ancient glass, 136. Terre Cotte, 137. Reserved Cabinet, 137. Pa- pyri. 1 37- Gems, 138. Nu- mismatic collection, 140. Collection of Small Bronzes, 140. Etruscan vases, 142. Gallery of Paintings : Italian schools, 144; Capi d'Opera, 145; Byzantine, Neapolitan, &c., schools, 148. Museums, private, at Naples, 155 Music, college of, at Naples, 1 19 Musicsellers at Naples, 69 Musical instruments found at Pompeii, 141 N. Naples, city of:— Hotels, 64. Private lodgings, 65. Police regulations and Passports, Trattorie, Restaurants,Cafds, Mallepostes, Steamers, 66. Railways, Post-office, Elec- tric Telegraph, English Church, Foreign Ministers, Bankers, Physicians, 67. Sur- geons and Dentists, Apothe- caries, Club, Teachers of languages, Music, and Sing- ing, Reading-rooms, Book- sellers, Stationers, 68. Ar- tists’ Studios, Photographs, Musicsellers, Tradesmen and Shops, 69. Carriages, Hack- ney - coaches, Omnibuses, Boats, Baths, Valets - de- place, Porters, &c., 70. Ge- neral Topography, 71. His- torical Topography, 72. Popu- lation, Climate, 75. Anti- quities, 76, Gates, ports, 78. Bridges, Castles, 79. Squares and Fountains, 81. Aque- ducts, Springs, and Wells, 84. Principal Streets and Public Places, 85. Theatres, 86. Festivals, 88. Churches : S. Agnello Maggiore, S. Agos- tino degli Scalzi and della Zecca, 96 ; S. Angelo a Segno and a Nilo, S. Antonio Abate, SS. Apostoli, 97 ; Ascensione, S. Brigida, S. Carlo all’ Arena, S. Caterina a Formello, 98 ; Cathedral, 90 ; S. Chiara, 98 ; Crocelle, S. Domenico Mag- giore, 100; S. Filippo Neri, 103 ; S. Francesco di Paolo, 104; Gesu Vecchio and Nuovo, S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli, 105 ; S. Giorgio de' Genovesi, S. Giovanni a Carbonara, 106. S. Giovanni Evangelista, Maggiore, and de’ Pappacoda, S. Gregorio Armeno, Incoronata, 107 ; S. Lorenzo, 108 ; S. Maria degli Angeli, dell’ Annun- ziata, del Carmine, 109 ; S. Maria della Catena, Donna Regina, Donna Romita, delle Grazie, la Nuova, no, S. Maria del Parto, del Pianto, di Piedigrotta, m ; S. Maria della pieta de’ Sangri, de’ Turchini, Regina Coeli, della Sanith, S. Martino, 112; Monte della Misericordia, Monte Oliveto, 114 ; S. Paolo Maggiore, S. Pietro ad Aram and a Maiella, 115 ; S. Pietro Martire, SS. Pietro e Paolo, SS. Severino e Sossio, 116; SS. Teresa, 117. Cemeteries, 1 17. Colleges and Scientific Institutions, 1 x 8. Hospitals, 120. Museo Borbonico, 121. Libraries, 150. Archives, 152. Royal Palaces, 153. Private Palaces and Museums, 155. Villas, 159. Naples, environs, excursions from, 160-321 Naples to Benevento, 325 to CampobasSo and Ter- moli, 321 to Foggia, Bari, Taranto and Otranto, 330 to Melfi and Venosa, 35 7 to Potenza, 362 to Reggio, 364 to Rome, 53 * to Rome, by San Ger- mano, 21 * to Rome, by Terracina, 2. Nardb, town of (Neritum), 356 Nasone, the highest point of Monte Somma, 170 Natiolum, town of, now Gio- venazzo, 344 Neagthus fluv., now the Neto, 387 Necropolis, of Cumae, 303- Of Canosa, 341. Of Venosa, 361 Negro, river (Tanager), 366 Neptune, temples of, at Pses- tum, 270. At Pompeii, 228. At Puteoli, 272 Nerano, Marina di, 242 Nerfa, valley of, 58 Nesis Insula, now Nisida, 166 Neritum, now Nardb, 356 Nerone, Stufe di, 293 Neto, river (Neaethus), 387 N icastro, town of, 3 74 Niccolini, on the subsidence of the Serapeon, 282 Nicola, S. ( priory and tomb of, at Bari, 344, , village, ?75 Nicotera, town of, 378 Ninfa, mediaeval town of, 7 , river (Nymphaeus), 7 INDEX, 403 NISIDA. Nisida, island of (Nesis), 166 Nocara, town of (Lagan a), 385 Nocera (de’ Pagani), town and citadel of (Nuceria), 261 , in Calabria, 373 Noia, town of, 347 Nola, city of (Nola), 274 Norcia, city of (Nursia), 34 Norma, town of (Norba), 7 Novito, river (Buthronus), 390 Nuceria, town of, now Nocera, 261 Nursia, ancient city of, now Norcia, 34 Nusco, town of, 34 7 Nymphasus, river and lake, now Ninfa, 7 Nymphs, temple of the, at Pu- teoli, 283 0 . Obelisks at Naples : della Con- cezione, 83. I)i S, Domenico, , 103. I)i S. Gennaro, 96 Observatory, at Naples, 120. On Vesuvius, 187 Ocinarus, fl., now the Savuto, 313 Ocra, castle of, 61 Ofanto, river (Aufidus), 334, 33 8, 34°. 34L ^57.358,359. 362 Ogygia Insula, 389 Olevano, village of, 365 Olibano, Monte, 277 Olive, cultivation of the, xxviii Oliveto, town and castle of, 357 Ombrasco, Valle, 3x3 Omnibuses at Naples, 70 Opi, village of, 44 Oplontum, remains of the sta- tion of, 192 Oppido, village of (Mamer- tium), 379 Orange and lemon trees, culti- vation of the, xxix Ordona, village of (Herdonia), 334 Orfenta, river and waterfall of, 52 Oria, city of (Hyria or Uria), 35i Orlando, Capo d’, 236 Oronzio, S., cathedral of, at Lecce, 352 Orsigliadi, Greek village of, 377 Orso, Capo d’, in the gulf of Sa- lerno, 260 Orta, river, 52 village, 334 Ortona, town of, 51 Ortucchio, town of, 61 Osteria di Carabba, 52 di Caianiello, 31 Galvano, 50 PARAVATI. Ostia, 4 Ostuni, town of, 354 Otranto, city of (Hydrun- tum), 352 — , province of, 347, 354 Ovid, birthplace of, at Sol- mona, 41. Supposed ruins of his villa on Monte Mor- rone, 42 Ovindoli, village of, 61 Ovo, Castel dell', at Naples, 81 P. Packets (steam) from Naples, liii Padula, town of (Consilinum), 367 P^estum, excursion to, 267. Plan of the nxins, 268. Origin, 269. Ancient walls, 269. Ruins, 269-272 Pagani, town of, near Nocera, 261 Painters, Neapolitan, list of, xxxiv Painting, xxxii Paintings, gallery of, in the Museo Borbonico, 144 Palaces (royal) at Naples, 1 53 — — (private), 155 Palaggiano, village of, 347, 364 Palatium, city of, now Palazzo, 34 Palazzo, village of, supposed site of Fons Bandusias, 361 Palazzuolo, town of, 27 Palena, village of, 51 Palentini, Campi, 58 Palinuro, Cape, 273 Palizzi, village of, 384 Palliano, villa, 160 Palma, 274 Palmarola, island of (Palma- ria), 16 Palmi, town of, in Calabria, 379- Palo, villages of, 347, 357 Pandects of Justixxian, at Amalfi, captured by the Pi- sans, and from them by the Florentines, 253 Pandosia Brutiorum, now Men- docino, 371 Pancrazio, S., village of, 352 Panni, village of, 334 Pantano dell’ Acerra, 317 Salso, 338 Panza, in Ischia, 314 Paola, town of (Patycus), 372 Papaglionti, Greek village of, 377 Papiria Fons, 46 Papyri, the collection of, in the Museo Borbonico, 137 Paracorio, village of, 379 Paravati, village of, 377 PETTORANO. Parolisi, town of, 357 Partenius, Portus, 342 Pass of Antrodoco, 36 Passports, xlv, 66 Pastina, village of, near Amalfi , 256 Paterno, village and baths, 36 Patinisco, river, 347 Patria, Lago di, 306 , Torre di, Liternum, the site of Scipio Africanus’ tomb, 304 Patu, village of, 353 Patycus, Greek city of, now Paola, 372 Pau, gallery, at Terlizzi, 346 Pausilypum, the villa of Pollio at Posilipo, 164 Pedamentina, La, on the slope of Vesuvius, 174 Pedavoli, village of, 379 Pedro, don, of Aragon, his tomb, 1 16 Pelasgic and polygonal con- structions : At Alatri, 25 Albe, 62 Amiternum, 35 Atina, 57 Castellammare della Bruca, 273 Civita d’Antina, 58 Arpino, 56 Boiano, 323 In the Cicolano district, 39 At Cora, 5 i Ferentino, 23 Fondi, 13 Isernia, 45 Norma, 7 Segni, 23 Terracina, 10 Pelino, S., church of, 41 Pellagrello, wine, 319 Pellaro, Capo di, beyond Reg- gio, 383 Penna, Punta della, on the Mare Piccolo, 349 Pennata, Punta di,at Misenum, 297 Pentedattilo, village of, 383 Pentima, village of, near the ruins of Corfinium, 41 Pergola, village of, 242 Persano, royal chase of, 269 Pertosa, village of, 366 Pescara, town and fortress of, 5° 'river, 50, 52 Pescasseroli, village of, 44 Peschio Canale, 58 Pescina, town of, 61 Petilia, now Monte della Stella, 27 3 in Calabria, now Stron- goli, 387 Petito, river, 391 Petrella, castle of, 39 Pettorano, town, 43 404 INDEX. PEZZO. Pezzo, Punta del, in Calabria, 3 81 Phalerum Promontorium, now Capo di Posilipo, 164 Phlegrfean fields, 276, 506 Physicians at Naples, 67 Piano di Cinquemiglia, one of the principal cattle stations of the Tavoliere, 44. Di Foroli, 45. Di Larino, 324. Di Sorrento, 238 Pianura, village of, 163 Picciotti, near Gallipoli, 356 Picentia, the capital of the Pi- centini, now Vicenza, 365 Picerno, town of, 362 Picinisco, village of, 4;, 57 Piedigrotta, Festadi, 88. Church of, III Pih di Luco, lake of (Lacus Velinus), 33 PlEDIMONTE, town of, 319. Village of, 27 Pietra Roia, village of, 322 Pietragalla, village of, 362 Pietrapennata, village and fo- rests of, 384 Pietravairano, village of, 319 Pietro, S., Vernotico, village, 355 Pignataro, village of, 18, 31 Pimonte, village of, 237 Pinna, now Civita di Penne, 50 Pino, Castel di, 257 Piomba, river (Matrinus), 50 Piperno, a trachytic lava, quar- ries of, 163 — — , town of (Privernum), 9 Pisciarelli, the (Fontes Leu- cogsei), 287 Piscina Mirabilis, 296 Pithecusa, now Ischia, 309 Tizzo, town of, 375 Pizzone, promontory of the Mare Piccolo, 349 Plera, ancient town of, 363 Pliny the younger, his descrip- tion of his uncle’s death, 234. Of the first eruption of Ve- suvius, 172 Pogerola, village of Amalfi, 256 Poggiomarino, village, 274 Poggio Reale, 168 Policastro, village (Pyxus or Buxentum) and gulf of, 273 Policoro, the farm of, 385 Polignano, town of ( Arnetum ?), 354 Polistena, Albanian village of, 319 Polla, town of, 366 Polla, birthplace of Vespasia, 34 Pollena, village, x68 Polvica, village of, near Naples, 167 Pomigliano d’Arco, 331 Pompeii, the buried city of, 193-234. Mode of reaching POPULATION. it, inn, and guides, 193. Situation and history, 193. Destruction, 194. Discovery, 195. Walls and towers, 195. Gates and streets, 196. Public buildings, 197. Domestic architecture, 197. Shops, 199. Present state, 200. Street of the Tombs, villa of Diomedes, 200. Tombs, 201-206. Su- burban inn, 204. Villa of Cicero, 204. Herculaneum gate, 206. Street of Her- culaneum, 206. Principal houses: — Of Sallust, 208. Of Pansa, 210. Of the Tragic Poet, 212. Of the Nereids, or of Meleager, 212. Of the Quaestor, 213. Of the Faun, 215. Gate of Nola, 216. Temple of Fortune, 217. Baths, 217. The Fo- rum, 219. Temple of Ju- piter, 219. The prisons, 220. The public granary, 220. Temple of Venus, 220. Basi- lica, 222. Curiaj and Mr&- rium, 221. Houses of Cham- pionet, 22t. Crypto-porticus of Eumachia, 222. Temple of Quirinus, 222. Decurionate, 222. House of the Augustals, 223. Shops of the money- changers, 223 . Street of Dried Fruits, 223. Of Abundance, 224. New Thermae, 226. House of M. Lucretius, 226. Triangular Forum, 228. Temple of Neptune, 228. Great or Tragic Theatre, 229. Small Theatre, or Odeum, 230. Thelseon, 230. Bar- racks of the troops, 232. Amphitheatre, 238 Pompeii, paintings in the Museo Borbonico, 124. Mosaics, 126. Egyptian antiquities found in the Iseon, 126. Sculpture, 127. Bronze statues, 134. Glass, 136. Fruits, seeds, bread, &c., small bronzes, kitchen utensils, &c., 138 Ponte Aurunea at Sessa, 19 della Catena, 6 di Cicerone, 55 Landolfo, village of, 322, 336 Maggiore, 9 Rossi, 77, 167 San Giuliano, 364 della Valle, 318, 321 Pontecorvo, city of, 28 Pontine marshes, 8 Pontone, village of, 258 Ponza, island of (Pontia), 16 Popoli, town of, 41, 53 Population of the kingdom of Naples, xii ; and of the city, 75 POZZUOLI. Porcile, village of, 369 Porcius, tomb of, at Pompeii, 205 Portae (ancient gateways) : — Dell’ Arco, at Arpino, 56. Aurea, at Atina, 57. Aurea (the arch of Trajan), at Bene- vento, 327. Of Herculaneum, at Pompeii, 206. Of Nola, or Gate of Isis, 216. S. Lorenzo, at" Aquino, 27 (modern gateways at Naples), 78 Portella, frontier station, near Terracina, 12 Porters' at Naples, 70 Portici, town and palace of, 169 Portigliola, village of, 391 Porto d’Ascoli, 48. Di Fermo, 47. Pavone (Nisida), 166. Di Recanati, 47 Ports of — Bari, 344 Barletta, 342 Brindisi, 354 Castellammare, 236 Catanzaro, 389 Gaeta, 15 Gallipoli, 356 Naples, 78 Salerno, 266 Terracina, 11 Termoli, 324 Trani, 342 Portus Alburnus, 272. Julius, 290. Miseni, 297. Parthe- nius, 372 Posideanee, now the Bagni di Tritoli, 265. Posidium Promontorium, now Punta di Licosa, 272 Posidonia, or Paestum, 269 Posilipo, hill and road of, 161, 163, 164 , Grotta di, 160 , Capo di (Phalerum), 164 Positano, town of, 256 Post-office at Naples, 67 Posta, la, 18. Lake of, 57 Postiglione, village of, 366 Posting regulations, xlix Potame, village of, 3 77 Potenza, city of (Potentia), 362 to Bari, 363 to Taranto, 364 Potito, S., town of, 357 Pozzano, convent of, 235 Pozzo d’Albero, post station of, 334 Latignano, near Civita Ducale, 36 d’Antullo, 25 dell’ Imperatore, at Foggia, 335 Pozzolana, a variety of volcanic ashes, 283 Pozzopiano, village of, 239 Pozzuoli, town of (Puteoli), INDEX. 405 POZZUOLI. road to, 277. History, 278. Cathedral, 219. Serapeon, 279. Mineral waters, 282. Mole, 282. Ruins, 283. Tombs, 285. Pozzuoli, Grotta di, 160 Praiano, village of, 256 Pratola, village of, 332 Presenzano, village of, 47 Presicce, town of, 353 Prignano, village of, 272 Prisons, the, at Pompeii, 220 Procida, island of (Prochyta), 308 Procopius, on Vesuvius, 174 Protestant burial - ground at Naples, 118 colonies of Calabria in the 14th century, 369 Pulcinella, 21, 87. His native place, 3x7 Pulo di Molfetta, nitre caverns, Punta del Palo on Vesuvius, 170, 185 Puteoli, now Pozzuoli, 278 Pyxus.or Buxentum, nowPoli- castro, 273 R. Raganello, river, 386 Railroads, xlviii, 67. ToCas- tellammare and Nocera, 168, To Cava, 260. To Caserta, 317. To Capua and S. Ger- mano, 21 Rapido, river (Vinius), 28 Rapolla, Village of, 358 Ravello, town of, 258 Raviscanino, village of, 319 Reading-rooms at Naples, 68 Reate, Sabine town of, now Rieti, 3 3 Reggio, city of (Rhegium), 381 Regillus, lake supposed site of, 22 Rende, town of, 372 Reserved cabinet in the Museo, 137 Resina, town of (Retina), 169 Restaurants at Naples, 66 Restituta, S., basilica of, 92 Revenue and public debt, xxi Rhegium, city of, now Reggio, 381 Promontorium, now Capo Pellaro, 383 Riace, village of, 390 Rice, cultivation of, xxix Rieti, city of (Reate), 33 Riofreddo, frontier station, 63 Rionero, town of, 358. Village of, 45. River, 3 58 Ripatransone, town of, 48 Ripiano di Faito, 237 SALARIA. Ritorto, post station, 369 Rivello, village of, 368 Rizzuto,Capo, one of the Iapy- gum tria Promontoria, 389 Roads, xlviii. Rocca del Cerro, village of, 63. di Cagno, 61 di Corno, 36 d’Arce, 54 Forzata, 351 Guglielma, 17 Imperiale, 385 Massima (Arx Carven- tana), 5 di Mezzo, 61 Monfina (extinct crater), *9 Pipirozza, 47 Secca, 27 Valloscura, 43 Roccamorice, village of, 52 Roccarasa, 44 Roccella, town of (Romechi- um), 390 Rocciola, Punta di, 309 Rogliano, town of, 373 Rolino, village, 273 Roman (ancient) architecture, xxxi Rome to Naples, by San Ger- mano, 21 — — by Terracina, 2 Romechium, city of, now Roc- cella, 390 Romito, river and falls of the, 58 Rosarno, town of, 378 Rose, Le, village of, 369 Roseto, village of, 386 Rossano, city of, 387 Rotaro, Monte, 316 Rotonda, village of, 368 Roveto, Val di, 57 Rucolo, torrent, 385 Rudise, the birthplace of En- nius, 352 Rutigliano, village of, 347 Ruvero, torrent, 385 Revo, city of (Rubi), 346 S. Sabatia, now Serino(?), 329 Sabbato, river, 326, 327, 329, 33 2 Sacco, river, 23, 25, 26 Saffron, cultivation of, xxix Sagittario, river (Acqua della Foce), 43 Sagras fluv., now the Alaro, 390 Sala, town of (Marcelliana), 367 Salandrella, river ( Acalandrus), 385 Salapia, city of, ruins, 338 Salaria, Via, 36 SCALETTA. Salentinum Promontorium, now Capo di Leuca, 353 Salerno, city of, 265. Cathe- dral, 265. Medical school of, 266 Salino Maggiore, 50 Salina Grande, at Taranto, 3 50 Salpi, Lagodi, 338 Salle, village of, 52 Salsus, river, 269 Salto, river and valley of the, 39 Salviano, Monte, 58 Samnium, city of, now Campo- basso (?), 323 San Benedetto, hamlet, 61 San Biagio, village and hot baths of, 374 San Elpidio, village, 20 San Felice, town, 11 San Fili, town of, 372 San Germano, town of (Casi- num), 28 San Giorgio, village of, 336 San Gregorio, village of, 17, 320 Sangro, river, 44, 51 San Liberatore, hill of, 264 San Lorenzello, village, 322 San Lorenzo, village, 9 San Lucido, town of, 372 San Lupo, village of, 322 San Severo, city of, 337 San Sisto, village of, 369 San Stefano, island, 17 San Vittorino, hamlet, 35 Sant’ Agata, town, 19 ; de’ Goti, 322. Santa Croce, highest cone of Roccamonfina, 19 Santa Maria Maggiore, village, 262 town of, 320 Saponara, town of, near Grum- entum, 367 Sapri, village of (Scidrus), 273 Saracino, river, 386 Sarmadium, now Muro (?), 35 3 Sarno, town of, 274 , river (Sarnus), 193, 195, 260, 274 Sarretella, river, 326 Satanasso, river, 386 Saticola, supposed site of, 322 Satriano, village of, 390 Saturo, Torre di (Saturum), 35 o Sava, village of, 351 Savignano, village of, 334 Savone, river (Savo), 19 Savuto (Ocinarus), river, 373 Scafati, town of, 260. Battles of, 260 Scala, town of, 257 Scalandrone (Cicero’s Cumaean villa), 299 Scalea, town of, 372 Scaletta, villa, at Posilipo, 160 , now Pontone, 258 406 INDEX. SCANNO. Scanno, lake and town of, 43 Scauro, fishing port, 17 Schioppo, Lo, fail of, 58 Scidrus, city of, now Sapri, 273 Seigliano, 373 Scontrone, village of, 44 Scorzo, Lo, village of, 366 Sculptors, list oi, xxxiv Sculpture, mediaeval and mo- dern, xxxii , gallery of, in Museo Bor- bonico, 127 Scurcola, village of, 62 Scutolo, Punta di, 238 Scylacaeum, now Squillace, 389 Scylla, town, castle, and rock of, 380 , earthquake of, 381 Sebeto, river, 71 Secondigliano, village of, near Naples, 167 Segni, town of (Signia), 23 Seiano, marina and village of, 238 Sele, river (Silarus), 267, 357, 366 Semin ara, town of, 379 Semirus fluv., now the Sim- mari, 389 Senarica, village of, 49 Senna, torrent, 259 Sepino, village, 322 Sepinum, now Altilia, 322 Serapeon, ruins of, at Pozzuoli, 279 Serino, town of, 329 Sermon eta, 7 Serra, la, 378, 392 Serra Capriola, town of, 324, 33 7 Serramarina, or Gerace villa, at Posilipo, 160 Sessa, town of (Suessa Aurun- ca), 19 Severino, San, village and castle of, 330 Sesto, village of, 47 Severo, San, city of, 337 Sezze, town of (Setia), 9 Sibilla, queen, her tomb, 263 Sibyl, her interview with JE- neas at Cumae, 291, 301. Her cave on Lake A vernus, 301. Her tomb, 302 Sicignano, village of, 366 Siderno, town of, 390 Sigillo, village of, 36 Sila, La, mountain range and forest of, 371 Silarus fluv., now the Sele, 267 Sirnmari river (Semirus), 389 Sinno, river (Siris), 368, 385 Sipontum, ruins of, 338. Ma- donna di, 338 Siris, city of, site of the, 385 river, now the Sinno, 368, 385 Sisto, San, village of, 369 Sitizzano, village of, 379 SURRENTUM. Soccavo, village of, 168 Socciaro, Punta di, at Procida, 309 Solano, river (Cratais), 380 Solfatara, the, near Pozzuoli, 287 Solipaca, town of, 322 Solmona, city of (Sulmo), 41 Solofra, town of, 329 Somma, Monte, the old name of Vesuvius, 170, 171, 172. Its geological structure, 186 Sonnino, 9 Sora, city of, 56 Sorianello, village of, 378 Soriano, village of, 378 Sorrento, city of (Surrentum) : Inns, 239, Lodgings, pro- visions, carriages, boats, 240. Situation, 240. Cathedral, history, antiquities, house of Tasso, 241 , ravine of, 241 , excursions from, 242 Soverato, village of, 390 Soveria, village, 373 Sparanisi, post station, 19 Spartimento, lo, near Capua, 20, 32 Spartivento, Capo di (Herculis promontorium), 383, 392 Sperlonga, village of (Spelunca, the villa of Tiberius), 13 Spezzano, Albanian village of, 369 Spigna, village of, 17 Spinazzola, town of, 341,362 Spintriae, and Spintrian medals, 245 Spulico, Capo, 387 Squillace, town of (Scylacte- um), 389 Squinzano, village of, 355 Stabias, now Castellammare, 236 Stalactites, Grotto of the, at Capri, 247 Stallati, village of, 389 Starza, la, near Pozzuoli, 288 Stationers at Naples, 68 Steamboats, liii to and from Naples, 66 at Brindisi, 355 Stefanoconi, Greek village of, 377 Steiano, S., del Bosco, ruins of, ?78 Stigliano palace, at Naples, 159 Stillaro, river, 390 Stilo, Punta di (Cocinthum Pro- montorium), 390 , town and iron-mines of, 390 Stretti di S. Luigi, 43 Strongoei, town of (Petilia), 387 Suessa Aurunca, now Sessa, 19 I Surgeons at Naples, 68 I Surrentum, city of, now Sor- I rento, 239 TERMOLI. Suvero, Capo, on W. coast of Calabria, 372, 373 Sybaris, the city of, site of, 386 river, now theCoscile, 368, 386 Sylva Gallinaria (Bosco di Var- caturo), 306 Syrens, islands of the (Li Galli), 249 T. Tabumo, Monte (Mons Tabur- nus), 322 Tacina, river (Targines), 389 Tagliacozzo, town and battle of, 62 Tamaro, river (Tamarus), 322 Tanager fluv., now the Negro, 366 Taranta, 51 Tarantella, the national dance, 309 Tarantismo, the, 350 Taranto, city of (Tarentum), 347- History, 347. Castle, fortifications, cathedral, 348. Mare Piccolo, 348. Ruins, neighbourhood, 349 to Castrovillari, 384 Tarracina, city of, now Terra- cina, 10 Targines fluv., now the Tacina, 389 Tarsia, town of, 369 Tasso, house of, at Sorrento, 241 Taviano, village of, 353 Tavoliere della I’uglia, origin of the system, and annuai mi- gration of the flocks, xxiv, 334 Teachers of languages and mu- sic at Naples, 68 Teano, city of (Teanum), 32 Teate Apulum, now Chieuti, 324. Marrucinorum, now Chieti, 52 Tegianum, city of, now Diano, 367 Telese, village and lake of, 322 Telia, torrent, 319 Temesa, site of, 372, 373 Teppia, river, 5 Teranie (Interamna Lirinas), 17, 28 Teramo, city of (Interamna), 49 Terina, site of, 373 Terinaeus Sinus, now gulf of S. Eufemia, 374 Terlizzi, town of, 346 Terminillo, Monte, or Mon- tagna di Lionessa, 34 Termoli, town and port of, 3 24 INDEX. 407 TERNI. Terni to Naples, 33 Terra di Lavoro, 12, 46 Terracina, city of, 10 Terranova, villages of, in Cala- bria, 379, 386 Terre Cotte, collection of, 137 Theatres at Naples, 86 , ancient, ruins of, at — Baiaj, 295 Calvi, 3 2 San Germano, 28 Herculaneum, 190 Misenum, 298 Naples, 77 the Pausilypum, 165 Pompeii, 229, 230 Puteoli, 285 Tarentum, 349 Teano, 32 Theodoric, palace of, 10 Thurii, site of, 386 Tiora, city of, now Torano, 39 Tiriolo, town of, 373 Titerno, river, 322 Tobacco, cultivation of, xxix Tocco, village of, 53 Toledo, the, at Naples, 75 Tolero or Sacco river, 26 Tolfilo, Lago del, chasm near Seminara, 380 Tolve, village of, 363 Tombs — of Cicero, 14 ofMunatius Plancus, 15 at Pompeii, 201 near Pozzuoli, 285 Topography of the kingdom, xi; of the city of Naples, 71,72 Torca, village of (Theorica), 242 Torchiara, 272 Tordino, river, 48 Toritto, village of, 363 Torre dell’ Annunziata, town of, 192 ^ del Greco, town of, 192 di Cappella, 292 di Chiunzo, 249 di Cicerone, 14 de’ Confini, 12 d’ Egnazia, J54 dell’ Epitaffio, 12 di Francolisi, 19 di Gaveta, 299 di Gerace, 391 Guevara, 334 Lupo, 373 a Mare, 385 Masdea, 375 di Melissa, 387 di Mezza Via, 4 Metella, 364 - — di Milo, 369 d’ Orlando, 16 di Paola, 11 Pignattara, 22 del Piano, 373 di Saturo, 350 Scassata, 192 YAL. Torre del Serpe, 353 — — San Tecla, 387 Tre Ponti (Trepontium), 8 Torricella, tavern, 32 Tottea, valley of, 49 Tovere, village of, 256 Tradesmen in Naples, 69 Traens fluv., now the Trionto, 387 Traetto, town of, 18 Tramonti, town and valley of, 249 Trani, city and port of (Tu- renum), 342 Trasacco, village of (Trans aquas), 61 Trebisacci, village of, 386 Trecchina, river, 367 Tremiti, Isole di (Insulae Dio- medeae), 324 Tres Tabernae, 7 Trevico, town of (Trivieus), 333 Tricarico, city of, 364 Triggiano, village of, 347 Trinita della Cava, monastery of, 262 Trionto, river (Traens), 387 , Capo del, in Calabria, 387 Triparni, village of, 3 77 Tripergola, village of, 289 Trisulti, Certosa di, 25 Tritoli, Bagni di (Posideanae), 293 Triviae Lucus, 304 Trivieus, now Trevico, 333 Tronto, river (Truentus), 48 Troia, city of, 337 Tropea, town of, 376 Truglio, at Capri, 245 Tunny fisheries, xxx Turenum, port of, now Trani, 342 Tusciano, river, 267, 365 TT. Ufente, river (Ufens), 9 Ufita, river, 333 Ugento, city of (Uxentum), 353 Ulubrae, ancient town of, near Cisterna, 7 University of Naples, 118 Uria or Hyria, city of, now Oria, 351 Uxentum, now Ugento, 353 V. Yado Mortale, at Amsanctus, 333 Vaglio, village of, 363 Vairano, post station, 324 Val di Bovino, 334 di Diano, 3 66 d’lnferno, 319 YIA. Yal di Nerfa, 58 di Roveto, 57 di S. Nicola, 349 Yalentino, S., village of, 52 Yaleria, via, 41, 62, 63 Vale ts-de-p lace at Naples, 70 Yalle, village, 321 Yallecupa, village of, 47 Yallelonga, village of, 3 75 Vallo, town of, 273 Valloscura, Rocca, village of, 43 Yalmontone, town of (Toleria), 22 Yalva, town of, 357 Yandra, river, 45 Varapodi, Greek village of, 379 Vasentello, river, 363 Vasento. See Basento Vases, Etruscan or Italo-Greek, collection of, in the Museo Borbonioo, 142 Vasto d’Ammone, town of (Histonium), 51 Vaticano, Capo, 376 Vedutri, village of, 34 Velia, city of, now Castellam- mare della Bruca, 27 3 Velino, Monte, 58 , river (Velinus), 33, 35, 36 Velinus Lacus, now Pie di Luco, 33 Velletri, city of (Velitras), 4 Venafro, town of (Venafrum), 46 Venosa, city of (Venusia), 360. Castle, abbey, churches, 360. Jewish catacombs, neigh- bourhood, 361 Ventarolo, the cold-air cavern at Ischia, 313 Ventotene, island of (Panda- taria), 17 Vergellus, fl., near Cannae, 341 Veroli, town of ( Verulae), 25 Vespasiae, site of, at Polla, 34 Vesuvius, 169. History of, 170. Account of the eruptions, 172. Summary, 185. Geo- logical structure, 186. Mi- nerals, 187. Observatory on, 188. Wines, 188 Yettica Maggiore, town of, 256 Minore, near Amalfi, 256 Vetturini, lii Yezzola, river, 49 Yia Antiniana, 167, 277 Appia, 3. Consularis or Campana, 277, 285 Cum an a, 285 — Domitiana, 18 — Labicana, 22 Latina, 22, 26, 27, 31 — Popillia, 367 Salaria, 36 Trajana, 354 — Yaleria, 41, 62, 63 408 INDEX. YIBONA. Vibona, S. Pietro di, 3 76 Vicenza, village of (Picentia), 365 Yiceroys, list of the, xli Vico, Giambattista, his tomb, 104 , town of (Yicus yEqua- nus), 238 Vicovaro, the ancient Varia, 6 3 Vietri, town of, near Salerno, 264 Vignola, village of, 362 Villas about Naples, 1 59 Villa S. Giovanni, village of, 381 Vincenzo, San, ruined monas- tery of, 45 Vine, cultivation of the, xxviii Vinius river, now the Rapido, 28 Virgil, his residence at Naples, 161. His verses in praise of VULTURE. the young Marcellus, 296. His death at Brundusium, and burial at Naples, 161, 355 . His tomb, 161 Virgilio, Scuola di, near the j Capo di Po3ilipo, 164 j Vitareto, Punta, at Capri, 246 Vito, S., town and post station of, 354 . Village of, 390. Cape of, in the gulf of Taranto, 3 50 Vittore, San, village of, 31 Vittorino, San, village of (Ami- ternum), 35 Vivara, Isola, 309 Volturara, town of, 329 Volturno, river (Vulturnus), 20, 45, 46, 306, 319, 322, 329 Vomano, river, 49, 50 Vomero, village of, near Na- ples, 166 Vulture, Monte (Mons Vultur), 35 9 THE END. ZURGUNADI. w. Waldenses, their colonies in Calabria, 369 "Weights and measures from Herculaneum, 140 , modern, xlviii z. Zampognari, the wandering bagpipers of the Abruzzi, 39, 89 Zannone, island of (Sinonia), 17 Zapponeta, village of, 338 Zephyrium Promontorium, now Capo di Bruzzano, 392 Zurgunadi, village of, 3 79 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 3 3125 00892 6749