A' Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/excerptacypriamaOOcobh EXCERPTA CYPRIA CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS WAREHOUSE, C. r. CLAY, Manager. llonDon: FETTEK LANE, E.G. (BlagBoSu: 50, WELLINGTON STREET. 1Ltip?ig: F. A. BROCKHAUS. Botfe: G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS. Bombag anU Calcutta: MACMILLAN AND Co., Ltd. [All Rights reserved.] EXCERPTA CYPRIA MATERIALS FOR A HISTORY OF CYPRUS TRANSLATED AND TRANSCRIBED BY CLAUDE DELAVAL COBHAM C.M.G., B.C.L., M.A. OXON., LATE COMMISSIONER OF LARNACA WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE BIBLIOGRAPHY OF CYPRUS Cambridge: at the University Press 1908 BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE Of these papers 35 were published at Nicosia between 1892 and 1895, as a supplement to the Owl: 44 were printed at Lamaca, for private circulation, between 1896 and 1902: that on Umm Haram is extracted from the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society, January, 1897, and the extract from the Catalan Lopez is here printed for the first time. PREFACE rMHE papers collected and arranged in this volume, some of which were first printed between 1892 and 1895 as a supplement to the Oivl, a newspaper published at Nicosia, comprise extracts and translations from books treating of Cyprus, travels, histories and others. Some of these are rare, others costly or cumbrous, and most of them are, in Cyprus at least, difficult of access. Of some too the language is not seldom a bar to comfortable and profitable study. I have tried to give translations which, while rigidly exact, will preserve something of the spirit and form of the original. The omissions are few, and generally indicated, but in no case has anything been excluded which directly concerns the island. The names of persons and places are left in the authors' spelling. To each extract is prefixed a brief note, giving a few particulars concerning the book and its writer, and the date of his visit to Cyprus. To have added notes in correction or supplement of statements found in the several texts would have been to re-write the history of Cyprus. More capable and younger hands than mine must undertake that task. But to this future historian these Excerpta will at least give in a single language and in one volume what eighty different writers have left in twelve tongues. For so much trouble .saved I claim his thanks. " Cest la matiere de Vhistoire nue et informe; chacun en pent /aire son jirojit autant qnil a d'entendement." Montaigne ii. 10. C. D. C. Larnaca, Cyprus. March, 1908. TABLE OF CONTENTS WRITERS A.D. PAGE Strabo ... 23 1 Pomponius Mela 40 3 CI. Ptolemaeus 140 . 4 Muqaddasi 985 . 5 Benjamin of Tudela ... 1170 . 5 Benedict of Peterborough 1190 6 Neophytus 119G . 9 W. von Oldenburg 1211 13 Dante ... 1300 . 15 W. von Boldensele 1333 . 15 J. de Verona ... 1335 . 16 L. von Suchen 1350 . 18 J. Maundevillo 135() 21 Martoni 1:^94 22 0. d'Anglure ... 1395 . 28 De Caumont ... 14IH 30 Pero Tafur 1435 31 W. Wey 14.58 35 Capodilista 1458 35 Felix Faber 1483 . 36 F. Suriano 1484 48 Zaniberti 1485 50 N. le Huen 1487 51 Fra. Noe 1500 53 Baunigarten ... 1.508 54 Le Saige 1518 . 56 Bordone 1528 61 Possot ... 1532 . 63 G. Atiagart 1534 . 66 Lilio 1551 67 J. Locke 1553 . 68 Elia.s of Pesaro 1503 73 Furer ... 15()() 77 Falchetti 1570 oU Sozoineno 1570 Wl ol Diedo ... 1570 . 87 Paruta ... 1570 . 96 Lusignan . 1573 . 119 Calepio 1.573 122 Porcacchi 157(5 .. 162 Villaniont 1,589 . 171 WKllERS A.D. PAGE Thevet .. 1590 ... 178 Dandini .. 1596 ... 181 Moiyson 1.596 ... 185 Cotovicus 1599 ... 187 Lithgow 1610 202 Sandys 1610 205 Beauvau 1615 209 Delia Valle ... 1625 210 Stochove 1637 215 Synaxaria .. 1667-1801 218 Hurtrel .. 1670 ... 232 Ricaut ... .. 1678 ... 234 Van Bruyn 1683 ... 236 Heyman 1720 ... 244 Pococke 1738 ... 251 Drummond 17.50 ... 271 Hasselquist 1751 306 Constantius, Abp. 1766 308 Lopez ... 1770 ... 322 Journal 1779 323 Walpole 1782-1802 325 Cypriano.s 1788 344 M. de Vezin ... .. 1790 ... 368 Umm Harani ... 1800 374 Clarke ... ISOI 378 Ali Bey 1806 391 Kinneir 1814 412 Light ... 1814 ... 419 Turner 1815 424 Notizie 1821 450 Pouqueville 1824 453 Frankland .. 1827 456 Gordon 1832 458 Delaroiere 18.32 ... 459 Engel ... 1841 461 Lticroix 18.53 4()3 Tricoupi 1860 4o5 Philemon 1860 ... 466 Gervinus 1863 4(i9 Berat ... 1866 470 Epitaphs 1685-1849 475 to face p. 87 to face p. 108 to face 2>- 168 Siege of Nicosia 1570 Plan of Famagusta ... Lusignan Genealogy ... CORRIGENDA ET ADDENDA p. .51. For a single begude read one small tavern. P. 52. For for a begute read used as a tavern. P. 218. For Mr^viaia read Mr^vaia. p. 308. Add to heading : [Constantius, born at Constantinople 1770, studied there and at Kiev, consecrated Archbishop of Sinai 1805, was a visitor in Cyprus from 1805 to 1811, probably on the business of the metochia of his see, and was raised to the Patriarchate of Constantinople in 1830; resigned the throne in 1834, and died at Constantinople January 5, 1859.] » EXCERPTA CYPRIA. STRABO. Strabo, born at Amaseia in Cappadocia in b.c. 66, completed the seventeen books of his Geographica in Rome about a.d. 23. I translate his account of Cyprus from Book xiv. 6 (cc. 681—685), ed. A. Meineke, 1866. Eratosthenes, born at Cyrene, flourished between 275 and 194 B.C. Pausanias, a native of Lydia, composed liis Feriegeain at Rome in the second half of the second century after Christ. The stadion = 100 opyvtai = 600 Attic 7rdSes=582 English feet. An Enghsh mile = 9J stadia. We have still to make the circuit of the island of Cyprus, which lies on the South of this peninsula (Asia Minor). We have said that the waters which are enclosed by Egypt and Phoenicia and Syria and the rest of the coast as far as that of Rhodes are made up of the Egyptian sea, the l^imphylian and that over against the gulf of Issus. In these lies Cyprus, of which the northern parts, for on this side it is nearest to the mainland, are close to Cilicia Tracheia. Its eastern parts face the gulf of Issus, the western are washed by the Pamphylian sea, the southern l)y that of Kgypt. This latter joins the Libyan and Carpathian seas flowing from the West, while on the South and East lie Egypt and the adjacent coast up to Seleucia and Issus, while on the North lie Cyprus and the Pamphylian sea. This latter is bounded by the headlands of (.'ilicia Tracheia, Pamphylia and Lycia, up to that of Rhodes: on the West by the island of Rhodes, on the Kast by Cyprus, on the side of Paphos and Acamas : on the South it joins the Egyptian sea. To anyone following the line of its bays the circuit of Cyprus is 34''20 stadia. Its length to a man walking from Kast to West from Cleides to Acamas is 1400 stadia. The Cleides are two small islands lying off Cyprus on the East coast of the island, 700 stadia from Pyramos. Acamas is a promontory showing two rounded hills and a vast forest, situated on the West of the island, and stretching northwards; it is the nearest point to Selinus in Cilicia Tracheia, 1000 stadia distant; from Side in Pamphylia it is 1600, and from Chelidonia 1900. We have .said already that the Cyprian promontory called Cape Crommyon lay opposite Anemourion, a cape of Cilicia Tracheia, at a distance of 3o0 stadia. The course thence of a vessel which has already on its right the island and on its left the continent is N. and E. to the Cleides, a straight run of 900 stadia. Midway lies Lapathos, a town with a roadstead and docks, built by the Laconians and Praxander ; opposite it is Nagidos. Then Aphrodision, where the island is narrow, the distance across to Salamis being 70 stadia. Then Acte Achaion, where Teucer landed who first founded Salamis in Cyprus, when he was cast out, as the story goes, by his father Telamon. Then a city Carpasia, which has a harbour ; it lies opposite C. Sarpedon. From Carpasia to the Carpasian islands and the southern sea the distance across the isthmus is 30 stadia. Then a cape and a mountain. The peak is called c. 1 2 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Olympos, and on it is a temple of Aphrodite Acraia, inapproachable to women and invisible to them. The Cleides and several other islands lie not far off, then the Carpasian islands, and next again Salamis, whence sprang Aristos the historian. Then Arsinoe, a city and harbour. Then another harbour Leucolla. Then C. Pedalion, over which hangs a steep and high hill, table-shaped, sacred to Aphrodite ; the distance thither from Cleides is 680 stadia. Thence the coast is generally indented and precipitous up to Cition...it has an enclosed harbour : thence came Zeno, the leader of the Stoic sect, and Apollonios a physician. Thence to Berytos are 1500 stadia. Then Amathos, a city, and between a small town called Palaia, and the breast-shaped mountain Olympos. [" In Cyprus is the city Amathos, where is an ancient temple of Adonis and Aphrodite, and here they say is the necklace which was originally given to Harmonia, but it is called the necklace of Briphyle, because she received it as a gift from her husband, and the sons of Phegeus dedicated it at Delphi. How they got it I have already related in my account of Arcadia (VIII. 24). But it was carried off by the Phocian tyrants. I do not think however that the necklace in the temple of Adonis at Amathos is Briphyle's, for that is emeralds set in gold, but the necklace given to Eriphyle is said by Homer in the Odyssey (xi. 327) to have been entirely of gold." Pausanias, IX. 41.] Then the promontory or peninsula Curias, seven hundred stadia distant from Thronoi. Then Curion, a city with a harbour, built by the Argives. Now then we can see the carelessness of the man who composed the elegy beginning Ipai To> $oi'/3(a, TToXXoi' Sia Kvfia deovcrai rj\6oiJ,€v at Ta)^ivai rd^a (jivydv e\a(j)oi, "sacred to Phoebus, coursing over a broad sea, we came, the hinds swift to avoid the bow" — whether it were Hedylos, or anyone else. For he says that the hinds started from the ridge of Corycia, and from the beach of Cilissae swam across to the headlands of Curias, and adds moreover that fivpiov dvdpd(Ti Oavfxa vo€lv ndpa, Trcoy dv68fvrov )(€Vfj.a 8i iapiva edpapofifv ^((fyvpo), "an infinite wonder was given to men to see, how we rushed along the pathless stream with a spring-bearing west wind." For the course from Corycus round to C. Curias is not with the west wind, be the island on the right or the left, and there is no passage across. Curion then is the starting point of the western course aiming at Rhodes ; very near it is a promontory from which they hurl those who have touched the altar of Apollo : then Treta and Boosoura and Palaipaphos, built as much as ten stadia from the sea : it has a roadstead and an ancient fane of the Paphian Aphrodite. Then C. Zephyria, with an anchorage, and another Arsinoe which likewise has an anchorage, and a temple and grove. A little distance from the sea is Hierokepia. Then Paphos, built by Agapenor ; it has a harbour and temples well adorned. The distance to walk to Palaipaphos would be 60 stadia ; and yearly along this road up to Palaipaphos men and women meet and keep a fair, coming from the other cities as well. Some folk say that from Paphos to Alexandria is 3600 stadia. Acamas comes next after Paphos. Then after Acamas going eastwards one sails to a city Arsinoe and the grove of Zeus. Then Soloi, a city with a harbour and a river and temple of Aphrodite and Isis; it was built by Phaleros and Acamas, Athenians. The inhabitants are called Solioi. Thence came Stasanor, one of the companions of Alexander, a man deemed worthy of rule. Beyond it inland is a city Limenia. Then C. Crommyon. What boots it to wonder at the poets, particularly those who care for nought but phrasemaking, who endorse the opinion of STRABO. P. MELA. 3 Damastos, who puts the length of the island as from N. to S. from Hierokepia as he says, to Cleides ? Nor is Eratosthenes correct, for while blaming this writer he says Hierokepia is not on the N. but on the S. For it is not on the S. but on the W., since it lies on the W. side, where too are Paphos and Acamas. Such then is Cyprus in point of position. But in excellence it falls behind no one of the islands: for it is rich in wine and oil, and uses home-grown wheat. There are mines of copper in plenty at Tamassos, in which are produced sulphate of copper and copper-rust useful in the healing art. Eratosthenes talks of the plains as being formerly full of wood run to riot, choked in fact with undergrowth and uncultivated. The mines were here of some little service, the trees being cut down for the melting of copper and silver ; and of further help was shipbuilding, when men sailed over the sea without fear and with large fleets. But when even so they were not got under leave was given to those who would and could cut them down to keep the land they had cleared in full possession and free of taxes. Now the Cypriots were first ruled in their several cities by kings, but since the Ptolemaic kings became lords over Egypt, Cyprus too passed to them, the Romans also contributing often their help. But when the last Ptolemy who reigned, a brother of the father of Cleopatra, the queen of our time, seemed both unsatisfactory and unthankful to his bene- factors, he was deposed therefor, and the Romans occupied the island, and it became a separate imperial province. The king's ruin was chieHy due to Publius Claudius Pulcher. He fell into the hands of pirates, the Cilicians being then very active, and requiring a ransom he applied to the king begging him to send and ransom him. He sent a very small sum, so that the very pirates were ashamed to take it. They sent it back and released Publius without a ransom. When he was safe he bore in mind against both their favours, and becoming tribune grew so powerful that Marcus Cato was sent to take Cyprus from its ruler. Ptolemy indeed succeeded in killing himself, but Cato swooped down and seized Cyprus, and disposed of the royal property and carried off the money to the common treasury of the Romans. From that date the island became an imperial province, as it is to-day. For a short interval Antony gave it to Cleopatra and her sister Arsinoe, but when he fell all his arrangements fell with him. P. MELA. Pomponius Mela, born in Spain, wrote under Caligula, about a.d. 40, 41, his tliree books de Choro- graphia, "the earliest work of this kind which we possess, and the only special work on the subject wliich Roman literature has to show." Seylfert. Cyprus lies almost in the middle of the gulf which indents most widely the coast of Asia, stretching across it East and West in a straight ridge, and lying thus between Cilicia and the Syrias. It is large, in that it once included nine kingdoms, and has now a few cities, of which the most illustrious are Salamis, Paphos, and Palaepaphos, where the natives assert that Venus first rose from the sea. (Chor. ll. 102. Ed. C. Frick, Leipzig, 1880.) 1—2 4 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. CL. PTOLEMAEUS. Claudius Ptolemaios was a native of Upper Egypt. His Geographice Hyphegesis, written in Greek about A.D. 140, is one of the chief sources of our knowledge of ancient geography. His degree {fioipa) is taken to be 500 stadia, and is divided into 60 Tfju^^ara. I have used the text of C. F. A. Nobbe, Leipzig, 1898. Lib. V. c. 14. The Position of Cyprus. Cyprus is surrounded on every side by the sea, and on the East by the Pamphylian sea, with an outline like this : Cape Acamas Long. 64,10 Lat. 35,30 New Paphos „ 64,20 >} 35,20 C. Zephyrion „ 64,10 )> 35,35 Old Paphos „ 64,30 )j 35 C. Drepanon „ 64,30 )j 34,50 On the South by the Egyptian sea and the Syrian, with an outline like this Courion city Long. 65,10 Lat. 35 Mouth of River Lycus „ 65,20 )> 35,10 C. Courias „ 65,30 34,45 Amathus „ 65,45 » 35 Mouth of R. Tetios „ 66,10 >) 35 Cition city „ 66,15 >) 35 C. Dades „ 66,30 )) 35 Thronoi city and cape „ 66,15 5> 35 On the East by the Syrian sea, with an outline like this : After C. Thronoi, C. Pedalion (Ammochostos) Long. 67 Lat. 35,20 Mouth of R. Pediaios „ 66,50 ») 35,20 Salamis „ 66,40 35,30 C. Elaia „ 67 >) 35,40 Ox Tail or C. Cleides „ 67,30 )) 35,50 On the North by the Cilician Channel, with an outline like this : Carpasia Long. 66,50 Lat. 35,55 Achaion Acte „ 66,40 35,50 Aphrodision „ 66,30 )) 35,40 Macaria „ 66 35,45 Ceronia or Ceraunia „ 65,40 J) 35,45 Mouth of R. Lapethos „ 65,30 )> 35,55 Lapethos city „ 65,20 )) 35,55 C. Crommyon „ 65,10 » 36,10 Soloi „ 65 » 36 C. Callinusa „ 64,40 35,50 Arsinoe „ 64,40 j> 35,35 The Eastern parts of the island fall into the Salaminian province. The Western into the Paphian. The Southern side of the middle portion into the Amathusian, with the mount Olympus. And the Northern into the Lapethian. CL. PTOLEMAEUS. MUQADDASI. BENJAMIN OF TUDELA. 5 The cities of the interior are these : Chytros Tremethus Tamassos Long. 66,30 „ 66,25 „ 66,20 Lat. 36,30 „ 35,25 „ 35,45 The islands on its coast are those called Cleides, their middle lies in And the Carpasian islands 67,20 64, 5 35,45 35,45 Lib. VIII. c. 20. Of the notable cities in Cyprus Paphos has its longest day of 14*25 equinoctial hours, and varies eastwards from Alexandria one quarter of an equinoctial hour. Amathus has its longest day of 14"25 hours, and varies eastwards from Alexandria twenty-four sixtieths of an hour. Salamis has its longest day of 14"30, and varies eastwards from Alexandria thirty-two sixtieths of an hour. Shams al Din, commonly known as Muqaddasi, was born at Jerusalem a.d. 946, and wrote his Deiscription of Syria at Baghdad in 985. I transcribe a short notice of Cyprus from page 82 of the translation made from the Arabic in 1886, for tlje Palestine Pilgrims' Text Society, by Mr Guy Le Strange. Over against Tyre lies the island of Qubrus, said to be twelve days' journey round. It is full of populous cities, and offers the Muslims many advantages in their trade thither, by reason of the great quantities of merchandise, stuffs and goods, which are produced there. The island is in the power of whichever nation is overlord in these seas. It lies distant across the water a sail of a night and a day, and from thence on to the country of the Greeks is the same distance again. The Travels of Rabbi Benjamin, of Tudela in Navarre, date from 1160 to 1173. I copy a short passage from Bohn's Early Travels in Palestine, page 77. Ed. 1848. From Rhodes it is four days to Cyprus, Besides the Rabbanitic Jews in this island, there is a community of heretic Jews called Kaphrosein or Cyprians. They are Epicureans, and the orthodox Jews excommunicate them. These sectarians profane the evening of the Sabbath and keep holy that of the Sunday. MUQADDASI. BENJAMIN OF TUDELA. 6 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. BENEDICT OF PETERBOROUGH. The Chronicle, under the title Gesta Regis Henrici II. et Ricardi I., ascribed to Benedict, who' was Abbot of Peterborough from 1177 until his death in 1193, was edited in the Kolls series (2 vols., 8vo, London, 1867) by Professor W. Stubbs. I owe the translation which follows (from Vol. ii. pp. 162 — 168 and 172, 173) to the kindness of the Rev. Prof. H. T. F. Duckworth, M.A. Oxon. In the same month of April the king of England demolished the castle which he had built in the place called Mategriffon, and on Wednesday in Holy Week (April 10, 1191) he and all his army set sail from the port of Messina, on board 150 large ships, and 53 galleys. On Friday a terrible storm came up from the south, about the ninth hour of the day, and scattered his fleet. The king however, with some of his ships, put in to the island of Crete, and thence crossed over to the island of Rhodes. But three large vessels from his fleet were driven by the aforesaid tempest to the island of Cyprus, and, being wrecked and broken up, sank in sight of the port of Limezun. With them went down certain soldiers and attendants of the king's household, amongst them being master Roger Malus Catulus, the king's vice- chancellor. The royal seal was found hung round his neck. Isaac the Emperor of Cyprus seized the chattels of those who were drowned, and robbed of their money all who escaped from the shipwreck. Moreover, in the fury of his savagery, worse than any beast of prey, he refused permission to enter the port to a galliot which had been driven thither by the wind, and which carried the Queen of Sicily, and the daughter of the king of Navarre. How Richard, king of England, seized and conquered Cyprus. When news of this was brought to the king he hastened to their rescue, with many galleys and a great following of ships, and found the ladies outside the port of Limeszun, exposed to the winds and sea. Then in great wrath he sent messengers to the Emperor of Cyprus, once, twice, and yet a third time, making his request with mild entreaty, that his fellow pilgrims, whom the Emperor was keeping in durance, should be restored to him together with their belongings. To whom the Emperor made answer with proud words, refusing to surrender either the prisoners or their belongings, and saying that he had no fear of the king of England or of his threats. Then spake the king to all his army, saying, " To arms, and follow me ! Let me take vengeance for the insults which this traitor hath put upon God and ourselves, in that he oppresses innocent men, whom he refuses to surrender to us. But truly, ' he who rejects the just demands of one armed for the fray, resigns all into his hands ' [arma tenenti Omnia dat, qui justa negat; Lucan, Pharsalia, I. 379]. And I trust confidently in the Lord that He will this day give us the victory over this Emperor and his people." Meanwhile the Emperor had occupied the shore in every direction with his men. Many of them were armed, but still more had no arms at all. But the king of England and his men, as soon as they had armed themselves, disembarked from their large ships into their boats and galleys, and came to land with a rush. The king, accompanied by his bowmen, was first to land, the rest followed, and as soon as they reached the shore one and all flung BENEDICT OF PETERBOROUGH. 7 themselves upon the Emperor and his Griffons. The arrows fell like rain upon the grass. After a prolonged conflict the Emperor, having lost a multitude of his men, fled, and all his host with him. The king of England, exulting in his great victory, pursued, and made a very great slaughter of all who resisted, and, had not night fallen soon, he would have taken the Emperor himself that day, either alive or dead. The king and his men however knew not the roads and mountain paths by which the Emperor and his followers made their escape, and would not pursue them further, but returned with a great prey both of men and animals to the town of Limezun, whence the Grilfons and Herminians (Greeks and Armenians) had fled, leaving it empty. On the same day (May 6) the king of Navarre's daughter and the Queen of Sicily, who was sister to the king of England, entered the port of Limezun, attended by the king's fleet. The Emperor, having rallied round him his men, who were scattered amid the thickets in the mountain valleys, pitched his camp the same night on the banks of a river about five miles distant from the town of Limezun, declaring with an oath that he would fight the king of England on the morrow. The report whereof was brought by scouts to the king, who long before daylight armed himself and his men for battle, and advancing silently came upon the Emperor's men, whom lie found asleep. Then, with a loud and terrifying shout, he charged into their tents, and they, suddenly awakened from sleep, were as dead men, knowing not what to do, nor whither to fly. The Emperor himself escaped with a few men, naked, and leaving behind him his treasure, his horses, his armour, his magnificent tents, and his imperial standard wrought all over with gold, which the king of England at once dedicated to the blessed Hdmund, King and Martyr of glorious memory. On the morrow many counts and barons of the kingdom came to the king of England, and became his men, swearing fealty to him against the Emperor and all men, and gave him hostages. Three days later Guy, king of Jerusalem, Gaufrid of Lezinant his brother, Anfrid of Turun, Raimund [Bohemund IIL] Prince of Antioch, Boemund [Raymond III.] his son, count of Tripoli, and Leo, brother [cousin] of Rupin of the mountain, came to meet the king of England in Cyprus and there they became his men, and swore him fealty against all men. On the same day the Emperor of Cyprus, seeing that all his people were deserting him, sent ambassadors to the king of England, to sue for mercy, and offered to make peace on these conditions, namely, that he should give the king of England 20,000 marks of gold, by way of compensation for the money taken from the bodies of those who had perished m the shipwreck, and surrender the persons and goods of the survivors; also, that he should himself accompany the king to Syria, and remain there in the service of God, together with a lu.n.lred men-at-arms, and four hundred Turcople horsemen, as long as the king stayed there • also that he should deliver his only daughter and heiress into the king s hand to be married by him to whomsoever he would, and with her his Empire; furthermore, that he should surrender the castles of his realm to the king, as a pledge for the steadfast observance of the treaty. , , i. xi, i • f These conditions liaving been proposed and accepted, the Emperor came to the king of England, and, in the presence of the king of Jerusalem, the Prince of Antioch and the rest of the Lords and of the Princes of all lus Empire, swore fealty to the king of England and his heirs, as his liege lords, against all men, binding himself also by his oath to keep and perform the aforesaid treaty, steadfastly and unshakeably, in good faith and wnthou guile. ^ On the same day after the mid-day meal the Emperor was in his tent : whilst the king s men-at-arms, into whose charge he had been given, took their mid-day slec^, the^ Emperor repenting of having made the abovementioned treaty with the king of England, secretly 8 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. made his escape. Then he sent a message to the king to say that never would he keep peace or treaty with him. This, as it appeared, gave the king great pleasure, and, like a wary and prudent man, he immediately placed a large part of his army under the command of Gruy, king of Jerusalem, and the other princes, saying to them, " Pursue and take the man, if you can. Meanwhile, I will sail round Cyprus with my galleys, and station guards all round the island, lest that forsworn deceiver escape my hands." As he had spoken, so did he. The galleys he divided into two squadrons, handing one over to Robert of Turnham, and retaining the other under his own command. Then they embarked, and setting sail, the king in one direction, and Robert in the other, sailed round the whole island, seizing all the ships and galleys they found in their course. The Griffons and Herminians, who had been charged with the defence of the Emperor's towns and castles and stores, seeing such a host of armed men and ships coming, fled into the mountains, leaving them without a guard. So the king and Robert took all the castles, towns and ports which they found empty, and having garrisoned and provisioned them and left guard ships, returned to Limeszun ; on the other hand, the king of Jerusalem and his forces were able to achieve but little in the course of their expedition. On the 12th day of May, being Sunday, and the feast of SS. Nereus, Achilleus and Pancratius, Richard, king of England, took to himself in marriage Berengaria, daughter of the king of Navarre. Nicolas, the king's chaplain, performed the office of this sacrament. On the same day the king caused his -wife to be crowned Queen of England in the city of Limeszun by John, bishop of Evreux, in the presence of the archbishops of Apamea and Auch, the bishop of Bayonne, and many others. After this the king of England, hearing that the Emperor's daughter was in a very strong castle called Cherin, went thither with his army. On his approach towards the fortress the Emperor's daughter came to meet him, and falling at his feet, did him obeisance, putting herself and the castle at his mercy. Then was delivered to him the exceeding strong castle called Buffevent, and after that all the towns and fortresses of the Empire were surrendered. The wretched Emperor lay in hiding in a certain strongly fortified abbey called Cape S. Andrea. Hearing that the king was at hand, he went out to meet him, and falling at his feet prayed the king to spare him in life and limb, saying never a word about the realm, for as much as he knew that all was now in the king's hand and power. This only he begged from the king, that he would not suffer him to be bound in fetters of iron. The king heard his prayer, and put him in charge of Ralph, son of Godfrey, his chamberlain, to watch and ward, giving word that fetters of gold and silver should be made, to bind the Emperor's hands and feet withal, and that he should be made fast in them. All these things befell in Cyprus in the month of June, on the first day of the month, being the vigil of Whitsunday. All things having been ordered for the security of the king's Empire, and garrisons placed in the towns and castles, the king put in charge of Cyprus Richard of Camville and Robert of Tornham. On the same day (June 1, 1191) Berengaria, Queen of England, the Queen of Sicily, and the daughter of the Emperor of Cyprus, accompanied by the greater part of the king's fleet, came to the camp before Acre. On the same day also died Philip, Count of Flanders, in the siege of Acre. On Wednesday after Whitsunday the king of England set forth from the island of Cyprus in his galleys, taking with him the king of Jerusalem, the Prince of Antioch, the Count of Tripoli, and the rest of the princes who had come to him in Cyprus. He also sent BENEDICT OF PETERBOROUGH. NEOPHYTUS. 9 Ralph son of Godfrey with the Emperor of Cyprus to Tripoli. But before the king's departure from Cyprus the counts and barons and all the men of the island delivered up to the king the half of all their possessions in return for the laws and institutes which they had in the time of Manuel, Emperor of Constantinople. These the king granted to them, confirming the grant by a charter. In the same month of June Richard of Camville, whom the king had appointed one of his justiciaries in Cyprus, fell sick, and without obtaining the king's leave, came to the camp before Acre, where he died. After his death the Griffons and Herminians, who had not yet accepted the king's peace, set up for themselves a new Emperor in the person of a monk, who was kin.sman of the P^mperor Isaac. 'J'hen Robert of Tornham, who was now sole justiciary of the king in Cyprus, assembled a great army and joined battle with the new Emperor, whose host he put to flight. The Emperor himself he took prisoner and hanged upon a gallows. In the same month died Ralph son of Godfrey, to whose charge had been committed the Emperor of Cyprus. The king then put the Emperor in ward with Gamier of Nablous, the Grand Master of the Hospital. NEOPHYTIJS. Tlie letter or tract of the monk Ncopliytus Conveniivg the minfortnncs of Crjprun, ascribed by Comte (le Mas Latric to tlie year 1196, was printed by Cotelier, E Cod. Keg. 2376, in his Eccleni(c Grcccce MonumenUi, vol. ii. 4to, Paris, 1681, p. 460, S. 19. The Greek text is here printed entire. There is an English version in the Rolls Series, but it was not at hand, and our translation is new. The letter is mentioned by the Rev. F. E. Warren in his edition of the "Ritual Ordinance" of Neophytus (Archteologia, Vol. xLVii. IHHl) to which is appended a note by Mr E. Freshficld " 0/( the Description of Cyprus, hy KcDpliytiis, (tiiil tin' coiKlilioii of the Island in Jiis time." The " Ritual Ordinance " was first printed at Venice, by N. (Hykys, in 1779, together with some sermons, Xoyoi ds ti)v 'E^arjfifpov. A sketch of the life of Neophytus, who must have been alive in I'iO.j, is given by Mr Warren. In the monastery founded by Neophytus, the 'KyKXeia-rpa, a picturesque spot near the village of Tsada, about six miles from Nea Paphos, are still shown the rock-cut cell and chapel of the hermit. The 'KyicXfiorpa is a "peculiar" (called in Cyprus a-Tavpmrrjyiov) independent of the bishop of the diocese (Paphos) in which it is situcated : a privilege it is believed to have enjoyed since its foundation in the reign of the Emperor Isaac .\ngelus, circ. 1185. There is a pleasant description and view of the site in Mr D. (i. Hogarth's Devia L'ypriYTOY nPESBYTEPOY fiovaxov koI iyKXeiaTov, irtpX tSiv Kara ywpav KvTrpov crKaiaiv. Nec^e'Ar^ KaXvTTTei tJAiov, koI bfxiyXTj opr] Koi /3owoi)S, 8i' wv aTreipyeTat $d\ij/L<; Koi (^lOTauyijs rjXiov (Iktis ^ovu) tlvl- €tpyei Se kol r^jaSs SoiSexa ^pdvous rfhrj vec^eXr^ koI 6fXL)(X7] (lA.X£7raXA,7^A.cov Setvojv Ttov TTj X'^'P^ a-vpijitlijjKOTUiv • KpaTTjOeicrrj'; fiiv yap Trj<; 'lepova-aX-qp, vtto tov aOtov SaXai^aVTi, r^s §€ KiJTrpov vtro 'la-aaKiov tov Koyu,vr;vo{), ixoL)(ai Xonrov koL TroXefioL, rapa^^at koL aKaracTTaa-Lai, A.a<^i;paya>ytat Kai Seivai crvvavTTjawi rrjv yrjv iv fj ol BrjXwOevTt^ rjp^av KareKaXvij/av vc^cAt^s koi ofxix^V' '"'Xeov l8ov yap' 6 ^6pos TOV Kvptov rjfMwv rac^os koI to. Xoiira ayia iSoOrjaav rots kvctl Moiicroi;Ap,avois, Sia ras d/xapTtas rjp,Civ. Kai 8aKpveL iv Tjj TOLavrr) (rv^^opS, Tracra i/'vx''? (f^tXoOeos, Tapa^OevTa Se kol to, idvr], Koi /SacnXeLaL KpLdetaaL, /cara to yeypa/A/Aevov, 6 ' AXaftavias, r]fu, koi 6 'Ey/cptvias Koi irav tOvos ovvTai. (.tl Se koI avTo<; 6 vios yjp.iov o TrvevyaaTiKos, Trpos ov 8rjXa8-q tovto iypd6pu)v dyu,7reA,ojv, Koi wapafiuatDV TroiKiXmv, Ktii jxtra ttoXX-^? mrov^yj^ aTrOTrAeCtrat XuOpa irpoi \v\aKi(rfiov<:, rryv 6\Krjv twv tiTraiTOVfievoiv ■)(pr)ix6.Tii)v, p-ixpi xiXiaZoiv TotTtDV K(u t6v, TuvTa Sc (rvyK€)(ci>pr]Tai yeveaOai Si' a/j.apTia<; oyKov, fj.€v urd)? (Tvyyvo<; lyKXtVctii', crvv tv tip)^iDV ptra ivvfaKorrioiv ^(lAtdStoi', los vp€V(>^ L-n-TTw. 'lyKXiVep rfj Kvtt/ju) TrapaXafiiov, evpfv avTtjv 6 TravdOXio<: o)S TiOrivovaav fir/Tipa, Koi (I p.i] yiyove. tovto, ra tov ^AXap.dvov urios t/aeXAe TTUtTurdaL koX auTO?. irois KvTrpos edAco, itn?)p<)fJLahr)v At^u> Kai tovto. '12? iyivtTO iv )(pr)tTU o eV paKupia rrj Xrj^ti (iae^taTaro^ /JacriAcvs MavovrjX 6 Kofxvr)v6<; (f>povpov o-TtlAtti Tiva Trpos Til l3upovpia rrjs 'Apjuevtas, areXXd riva. tuiv avrov avyytvwv, KOfxiSy veov '\(TadKLov Towopa- os )(j>(mn«: TLva<: ra xdarpa ■mpi^vXd^a'i cnivdimi TroAe/AOV p.tTa. rmv App.tvLWV. Kal Trap' avTU)v dXw&fU irnrpdaKtrai tois AttTiVois. O'l Si. ovTi Koi avTu)- Bl i)V airiav, (rupySao-iAtuo-as avrtp ' AvhpovLKO'i, 6 Oeio's avrov, avaiptl to TratSdpcov, KpaTrjaas 2—2 12 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. with him, killed the boy and seized the kingdom. But at the entreaty of the assembly he sent a very large ransom, and bought the said Isaac out of the hands of the Latins. Isaac came to Cyprus, took it, and was proclaimed king. He ruled over it for seven years, and not only utterly despoiled the land, and perpetually harassed the lives of its rich men, but every day he hounded and oppressed its nobles, so that all lived in distress, and sought how by any means they might protect themselves against him. While things were so, lo, the Englishman lands in Cyprus, and forthwith all ran unto him ! Then the king, abandoned by his people, gave himself also unto the hands of the English. Him the English king bound in irons, and having seized his vast treasures, and grievously wasted the land, sailed away to Jerusalem, leaving behind him ships to strip the countiy and to follow him. But king Isaac of Cyprus he shut up in chains in a castle called Marcappus. The wicked wretch achieved nought against his fellow wretch Saladin, but achieved this only, that he sold our country to the Latins for two hundred thousand pounds of gold. Whereon great was the wailing, and unbearable the smoke, as was said before, which came from the north. He that would tell of them at length, the time shall fail him. The state of our country now is no better than that of the raging sea under a great storm and tempest. Nay it is worse than a wild sea. For a calm succeeds the wildness of the sea, but here day by day the tempest increases, and its fury knows no end. Unless indeed it hear " Hitherto shalt thou come, but no further : and here shall thy proud waves be stayed" (Job xxxviii. 11). In the book of Leviticus (xxvi.) are clearly written the evils which have come upon us, to wit, wars and defeats; our seed is without fruit, the labour of our hands the enemy hath devoured it, and our strength is become a thing of nought, and we few in number, and an alien people hath waxed many in our land. Ye have walked contrary unto Me, saith God, and I will walk contrary unto you also in fury. Even so it is. jSao"tA.€ias • SvcrwTrij^eis Se Trapa ri}? CTvyKK-qTOV /SovXrj'; areX-XeL TrdfnroXka XvTpa, Koi e^wveirai eK AaT6Va)v Tov prjOevra 'laaaKLOv os i\6v, Jcras crtSiypois, koL toiis avrov 6r]a-avpov<; StapTracra? as 6 oXoXvyp.o'i Kal a(f)6pr]TO'i 6 Karrvo^, d)S ■jrpoeipyjraL, 6 iX6(j)v sk rov (ioppd, irepl civ 6 OiXmv ^rjXCta-at Kara p,€pos Kal 6 )(p6vo^ eTTiActi/zct. Maivo/Aevr^s 6aXa(r(rr]<; ex ttoXX'^s TpLKvp-ias Kal TroXXrjs KaratytSos ouSev arroSiei vvv ra rrj<; X'^^P^'^ ■r]p.C)V p.aXXov Se Kal yjapov dyptas OaXa.acrr}s- eKCivr}'; yap rrjv dypLorrjra SiaSe'xeTat yaXrjvr]- evOa 8c 6 kXvSwv Ka6 kKadrrfv iirav^ii, koX ro paySatov avrov riXo'i ovk c'x*'-" I^V '"'"^ aKOvaeu, Me^pi rovrov iXtvarj, Kal ovk VTrep/Sycy, aXX iv creavrfj crvvrpL^'qaerai o"ou to. Kvjxara. Ev rrj AevinKyj y8(./3Aa) ycypaTTTtti SLapprjSrjv ra iv ry yfj rj/jLiov a-vvavrrjO'avTa ■wrjp.ara, yroi TroXe/xoL, rjrraL, cnropal 8ia Ktvrj'i, VTT ivavrloiv e8to8r^, Kapiro^ Kapidrdiv rjp.S>v Kal r] icr^vs rjp,Cjv iyive.ro eis ov^iiv koX iyevop-eOa oXiyoaroL- Kttt Xaos dXXorpios iTrXrjOvvOr] iv ry yy yp-wv iiroptvOyrf. Trpos /xe TrActytoi, Xiyei 6 0cos, Kayo) iroptvy are sometimes specially prepared to be eaten like honey with bread. Cyprus rears nuiny wild asses and rams, stags and hinds : but it has no bears, lions or wolves, or other dangerous beasts. Let him who desires to be more fully informed concerning this land, how it was first made habitable, and how virgins were here beguiled by demons and bore' them offspring, and how far those demons haunted the men who first colonised the island, study the book of the Provost Hermann of Lyon, in which that dignitary of pious memory describes fully and exactly all these things and nnich more about the condition of Cyprus. Of your charity let his soul find remembrance in your prayers. We first touched land at Schenue [Keryneia] a small town but fortified, which has a castle with walls and towers. Its chief boast is its good harbour. In this district the king of Cyprus has four good castles. Note that the Emperor Henry VI. made the first lord of this country a king, and crowned Iutu by the hands of Conrad the chancellor. Hence it follows that the king of this land is bound in fealty to the Roman Emperor. 14 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Passing on we readied Cossia [Nicosia], This is the king's capital city, situated almost in the middle of the plain; it has no fortifications. A strong castle has just now been built in it. It has inhabitants without number, all very rich, whose houses in their interior adornment and paintings closely resemble the houses of Antioch. In this city is the seat of the archbishop. Also the court and palace of the king, where I first saw an ostrich. This city is five miles from Schernas. On the road thither we came on many cypress trees, which grow here and there in great numbers. From these I think the island takes its name. We continued our pilgrimage thence to visit the cross of the thief who was crucified on our Lord's right hand, and reached Lamezis [Limassol] . This is a city but slightly fortified, lying by the sea, with a much frequented harbour. Here is the first suffragan see of the lord bishop of Nicosia. Near it are the vineyards of Bngaddi, concerning which see the Song of Songs i. 14 "my beloved is unto me as a cluster of Cyprus in the vineyards of Engaddi." Here also balsam used to be found but is no longer found. The wines of the place are excellent ; for their sweetness trust to our experience, for we tried and tasted them. Hence we made the ascent of the mountain called of the Holy Cross, which outtops all the mountains of Cyprus. On its peak is a small convent. The life of its inmates, if they will allow me to say so, is very unlike that of monks. Within the convent is a small chapel, in which that precious cross is kept with much honour. It hangs and swings in the air, they say, resting on no support. But it is not easy to see this. This was the manner and this the reasoii of its being set there. The devil, that enemy of all good, pursued the settlers and dwellers of this land with such malice that he used to tear up by night the bodies of the dead who had been interred during the day, and brought them back to the homes of their friends. So that the natives could not bury their dead. Helena the mother of Constantino who was then ruler there pitied their trouble, and set that cross which she had brought whole from Jerusalem, as it stands to-day, on that mountain; and thus she drove with power those malicious foes not only from the land, but from the lower air which is thought to be the prison of devils, as though she used that word of the Lord " let the dead bury their dead." And thus that ancient enemy, who conquered on the cross, was by that cross conquered. From this mountain we saw Paphos: this too is on the shore, and contains the second suffragan see of the lord bishop of Nicosia. It is a small town, and they still show there the tower on which in the days of heathen ignorance Venus was worshipped by her lovers. Our pilgrimage was now done, and we toiled on to Famagusta. We had gone so far on foot, and were compelled for very weariness to hire asses, and thought we were going to race on them as on stout horses. Then one of our party, whom I do not presume to name, whose tongue many a cup had quickened, when he thought to mount, found his legs going in different ways and fell from his ass, and while trying to rise even received some kicks from it. So was our Silenus overthrown, and spurned by the ass's hoof ! He was for throwing all his mishap on the wine, when he ought rather to have followed that maxim of Cato's " You whom wine causes to err, absolve not yourself : No fault lies with the wine, the fault is the drinker's." Hence we reached Famagusta, a city built close to the sea, with a good harbour, slightly fortified. Here is the third suffragan see of the lord bishop of Nicosia. Near it is the site of some city now destroyed, from which, they say, came that famous and blessed Epiphanius, who is commemorated in the Canon. Prom this city, after a delay of three weeks while we waited for a favouring wind, we set sail, and with much toil and through a great storm we returned to Acre. W. VON OLDENBURG. DANTE. W. VON BOLDENSELE. 15 DANTE. Dante Alighieri, in a mystical passage of the Paradise, xix. 145-148, speaking with the mouth of tlie Roman Eagle (standing here as the symbol of the justice of the Empire) within the outlines of which he sees gathered the souls of those kings of the earth who did justly and loved mercy, seems to say that m earnest of that day when injustice and vice shall meet their doom, Nicosia and Famagusta already groan with sorrow and growl witli anger at the selfish wickedness of Henry II. of Lusignan (1285—1310) a worthy sty-mate of other bestial kings. Here is the text, Gary's translation, and the comment of Benvenuto da Imola. E creder dee ciascun clie gid, per arra Di questo, Nicosia e Famagosta Per la lor bestia si lamenti e garra, Che dal fiance dell' altre non si scosta. In earnest of that day, e'en now are heard Wailings and groans in Famagosta's streets And Nicosia's, grudging at their beast. Who keepetli even footing with the rest. "AtuI evoryonc ought to believe tliat by this same token, that is by the token of this prophecy or hook, that Nicosia and Famagosta, by which he means to be understood the kingdom of Cyprus— for Nicosia is a city in Cyprus : Famagosta another city, greater and richer, to which tliere is a general concourse of merchants — laments and groans, that is, is in tumult over their l)east, tliat is their king, wlio lives as a beast. Wherefore he says which, that is, which king, does not separate itself from the side of the others, that is, does not differ nor depart \rom the side of the other beasts, that is, of other vicious kings. And truly he does not separate himself and keep liimself apart from the bestial living of others, nay rather o'ertops and exceeds with his Cypriot subjects all rulers and peoples of the kingdoms of Christendom in superfluity of luxury, gluttony, effeminacy and every kind of pleasure. But to be at pains to describe the kinds of feasts, tlieir sumptuonsness, variety and superfluities, would be tiresome to tell, and tedious to write, and harmful to hear. Wherefore men who live soberly and temperately ought to turn away their eyes from seeing, and their ears from hearing the meretricious, lewd and fllthy habits of that island, which by God's leave the Genoese have now invaded, conquered, evil-entreated and amerced." W. VON BOLDENSELE. Wilhelm von Boldensele or Boldensleeve (Otto von Neuhaus) deserted the Dominican Convent of S. Paul at Minden, got absolution at Rome, and undertook in 1833 the pilgrimage to the Holy Places. The journey was made perhaps at the instance of Cardinal Elie de Talleyrand, Comte de Perigord, Bishop of Limoges : or, as Basnage says, the Cardinal may have only prompted him to describe it, for his own information or for that of Ik-nedict XII., who was preaching a new Crusade. His H()(h>cj>()ficoii ad Terrain Saiictam was written in 1336, and published in Canisius, LectioneH Antiquae, ed. by J. Basnage, fol. Anvers, 1725 (see vol. iv. p. 338). Fi-oni Kliodes I went on towards Cyprus. This island is rich in excellent wine, whence the bride in the Songs compares the bridegroom to a cluster of Cyprus in the vineyards of 16 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Engaddi. These vineyards are in Cyprus, near the city Nicomosa, and are called to-day by the inhabitants Engaddia. The wines of Cyprus are naturally red, and after a year they grow white, and the older they are the whiter they grow : they smell well, are wholesome and very strong, and unless largely mixed with water are hardly fit to drink. There is in Cyprus on a certain high mountain in the care of the monks of S. Benedict the cross of the good thief, and part of a nail of the Passion ; and other worshipful relics. Also in Cyprus is the body of the blessed Hilarion under the royal care in the castle which is called Gedamors [Dieu d' amours]. And another saint who is called Zozonion or Zozomion is held in this island in great reverence, whose head is preserved in the royal chapel. S. Barnabas also of the city Salamina or Constantia now destroyed, near Famagusta, was born in Cyprus. There are in the mountains of Cyprus wild sheep, with hair like that of goats and dogs, which are said to be found nowhere else. It is a very swift animal and its flesh is good and sweet. When I was out hunting I saw several caught by dogs, and especially by the tame leopards of Cyprus. On Christmas-day I reached Syria. J. DE VERONA. Jacobus cle Verona, an Augustinian monk, left Verona May 7, 1335, embarked at Venice May 29, visited Cyi^rus, preached at Nicosia before Hugues IV. de Lusignan, and left the island on July 21 for the Holy Land, Sinai and Egypt, returning in October to his home. We translate from the rude Latin of the text published in the Revue de VOrient Latin (1895, pp. 175- 179) by M. Reinhold Roehricht. With a calm sea and favourable wind we sailed past Rhodes, which belongs to the Brethren of S. John of Jerusalem, and reached Cyprus in great alarm, because a pirate, a savage robber of the sea, one Bartholomew Malopolus, was following us or close to us. At length by God's help we escaped him and arrived at the city of Paphus, commonly called Bafa ; then passing by the city of Cyprus we anchored in the harbour of Famagosta, a city of Cyprus, on Friday, the last day of June (1335) ; and on the following day, the first of July, we all, merchants and pilgrims and sailors and crew, went to the church of S. Maria de la Cava, which is about two bowshots outside the town, and there in most devout fashion I celebrated mass, and we offered one large or double candle to the glorious Virgin who delivered us from so many dangers, for while we were yet at sea we had thus made our vow. The church is worthy to be visited devoutly and often : it is in a cavern, and you descend into it by thirty-six steps. It is well lighted and adorned and painted, but of small size. Everyone who lands goes there forthwith. There are three chaplains who remain there continually, and celebrate daily for the crowd of visitors. For at sea when the sailors at even sing 8alve Regina one of them always invokes the help first of the Holy Cross of Mount Calvary, then that of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Cave, and for many years the worshippers in that church respond Deus exaudiat. I stayed twenty days in that island of Cyprus, and got to the city of Nicosia, and visited the Lord Hugo, king of Cyprus, who is virtuous, gracious and devout. Every Sunday and Feast day he hears sermons from clergy in his own chapel — I too preached before him — and \V. VON BOLDENSELE. J. DE VERONA. 17 he has ten chaplains who celebrate daily, and himself is always present at the service. Among the clergy are three monks of our Order, two Preachers, and the secular priests. That city of Nicosia is adorned with many gardens, and has many nobles. It is a day's journey from Famagosta. But from Candia, a city in Crete, to Famagosta the distance is eight hundred miles; and from Candia to Venice fifteen hundred, and from Venice to Famagosta two thousand three hundred miles. In that city of Cyprus and in the island I saw the novelties which I note here below. The first is that on that day, the last of June, and that very hour when I entered the harbour several large vessels and galleys and gripparia came from Armenia, from the city of Logaze, crowded with old men, children, women, orphans and wards more than fifteen hundred in number, who were flying from Armenia because the Soldan had sent hosts, many and mighty, to destroy it, and they burnt all that plain and carried off captive more than twelve thousand persons, over and above those whom they had slain with the sword, and they began to destroy it, as I was told by Venetian merchants who were there, on Ascension Day, which fell on May 25. 0 Lord Grod, sad indeed it was to see that multitude in the square of Famagosta, children crying and moaning at their mothers' breasts, old men and starving dogs howling. Hear it, ye Christians who live in your own towns and homes, eating and drinking and reared in luxury, who care not to make the Holy Land your own, and to restore it to the Christian Faith ! Moreover in that same city of Famagosta, while I was there a certain rich citizen died, and all our clerks were invited to pay him honour, and I went, and while we were at the door of the deceased I heard women singing sweetly ; then I entered the house, and looked where the corpse lay, and lo, at his head were two women singing aloud, and two at his feet piously wailing, and these are the fiute-players (8. Matt. ix. 23) of whom the Evangelist speaks. They were singing in the Greek tongue, so we could not understand them, because all men in Cyprus speak Creek : they understand well the Saracen and Frankish tongues, but chiefly use Creek. 1 asked what they were saying and was told that they praised the dead man for his beauty and thrift and other virtues. Also in the same city, one Sunday, I saw a bride go to the house of the bridegroom thus; before her were borne twenty large candles liglited, and after her twenty, and in the midst she sat on a horse, with her eyebrows and forehead painted, and after the candles came forty or more ladies with black cloaks over their heads and reaching to the feet, in very decent fashion, and thus go all the ladies of Cyprus, showing nothing but their eyes, and when they go out of doors they always wear this black cloak ; and this from (1291) the time that the Christians lost Acre, which is Aeon or Ptolemais. Also in the same city are several sects which have their own worship and their own churches. First, true Christians; secondly the Greeks, who consecrate not with unleavened wafers, but with leavened bread ; they do not elevate the Body of Christ, nor do they believe that the Spirit proceeds from the Son. There are also Jacobites, who are circumcised, and are baptised with the Greek rite. There are also Armenians, who perform their worship like true Christians, but say the service in the Greek tongue, also Georgians and Maronites. Those two sects are baptized like Christians, but use the Greek service. Also Nestorians, so called from the faithless heretic Nestor, who say that Christ was only a mere man, and perform their services in (ireek, but do not follow the Greeks but have a service of their own. Also in that island the heat is such that in summer a man can scarcely live, and no one leaves his house except at night, and in the morning until the third hour, and from the hour of vespers onwards. 1 was nearly dead of that heat. 3 c. 18 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Also in that island and province of Cyprus tliere is a native wine called Marea. If it were drunk neat the heat of the wine would burn up a man's entrails. It does not appear so strong to the taste, anyone who would drink it must put one glass of wine to four of water, and even so it is strong enough. The circumference of the island is six hundred miles. In that island is a very high mountain which is seen from the sea, and on the mountain a renowned monastery of Black Monks called of the Holy Cross, and a church. Between two rocks hangs the cross of the good thief, to whom the Lord said " To-day shalt thou be with ME in Paradise." It is held in great and devout veneration, and a vast multitude visit it. It is called the mountain of the Cross ; it is fifteen miles from the sea, and a good day's journey from Famagosta. To this monastery of the Black Monks of the Holy Cross I went on my return from Nicosia. I arrived there with devotion and reverence, and saw and touched that blessed wood, which is held in reverence by all, and seafaring men in storms at sea invoke the blessed Cross of Cyprus. L. VON SUCHEN. Some fragmentary but interesting notes on Cyprus from the De Terra Sancta et itinere Ihierosol. of Ludolf, priest of the church of Suchen in Westphaha, are here translated from vol. ii. pp. 210 — 217 of Mons. de Mas Latrie's Histoire de Vile de Chypre. The original work, printed in the fifteenth century without note of date or place (Strassburg, 1468?), is extremely rare. The visit took place between 1336 and 1341. One text was edited by Prof. F. Deycks, Stuttgart, 1861 : another, " Ludolphus de Sudheim, de Itinere Terrae Sanctae," in 1884 by Dr G. A. Neumann, Ord. Cist. (Archives de VOrient Latin, ii. pp. 305 — 377 : see also R. Rohricht, Deutsche Pilgerreisen, Gotha, 1889, p. 102). Suchen or Suchem, supposed to be in the diocese of Paderborn, Westphalia, has not been identified. Concerning the kingdovi of Cyprus. From Rhodes we sail to Cyprus, an island most noble and fertile, most famous and rich, surpassing all the islands of the sea, and teeming with all good things, first inhabited by Japhet, son of Noah. It is productive beyond all other lands. The distance by sea which divides Cyprus from the cities situate on the coasts of Egypt, Syria, Armenia, Turkey and Greece is scarcely a day's journey, as you shall hear later. This glorious island belonged once to the Templars. They sold it to the king of Jerusalem, and when the Holy Land and Aeon were lost and laid waste, the king of Jerusalem with the princes, nobles and barons of his realm removed to Cyprus, and have remained and lived there up to the present day. And so it was that Cyprus was made a kingdom. There are three Bishoprics in Cyprus, at Paphus, Nymocia and Famagusta, and one Metropolitan at Nycosia : in my time this last was Helie [de Nabinal 1332 — 1367] a brother •of the Friars Minor. Pope Clement V. made him Cardinal. Paphus, whilom a great and goodly city, is the oldest in Cyprus : it lies on the seashore ■opposite Alexandria, and is now well-nigh destroyed by frequent earthquakes. SS. Paul and Barnabas turned this city to the faith of Christ, and thence was the whole world turned to that faith, as is shown in the Acts of the Apostles. Concerning the castle of Venus. Near Paphus once stood the castle of Venus, where they were wont to adore an idol of Venus, and came to visit its threshold from distant countries, and all noble lords and ladies and damsels were gathered there. It was there that J. 1)E VERONA. L. VON SUCHEN. 19 counsel was first taken for the destruction of Troy, for Helen was taken captive as she journeyed thither. In this temple also all ladies and damsels before their betrothal yielded themselves to men ; for in Cyprus above all lands men are by nature most luxurious. For the soil of Cyprus, and especially where the castle is, if a man sleep thereon, of its own self will all the night through provoke a man to lust. Near Paphus is the place where S. Hylarius lived and worked many mii'acles, and many other places where many saints lived, and especially S. Mamas, who was by family of Lucania, whom the Greeks devoutly and intently invoke for the cure of abscesses. Concerning the vineyard of Engadi. In this same province of Paphus is the vineyard of Engadi : its like is nowhere found. It is situated in a very high mountain, and measures two miles in length and in breadth, girt on all sides with a lofty rock and a wall ; on one side it has a very narrow entrance, and within it is quite level. In this vineyard grow vines and clusters of many different kinds, some of which produce grapes of the bigness of plums, others small grapes like peas, others again grapes without stones, or grapes in shape like an acorn, all transparent, and grapes and clusters of many other kinds are seen therein. It belonged tf) the Templai-s, and more than a hundred Saracen captives were daily therein, whose only task was to clean and watch that vineyard, and indeed I have heard from many of experience that God had made for the use of men no fairer or nobler ornament under the sun. And so we read of it in the Song of Songs "my beloved is unto me as a cluster (of Cyprus) in the vineyard of Engadi." Concerning the little Engadi, and the city of Nymocinum. Not far from Paphus is the city of Nymocia, which was once fair but now laid waste by constant earthquakes and by Hoods coming suddenly from the mountains. This city is set on the seashore directly facing Tyre and Sydon and Baruch. After the loss of Aeon the Templars and the Friars of the Ho.spital of S. John and other nobles and burghers dwelt here, and many of their palaces and castles are seen there. Concerning the vineyard of Engadi. Near Nyinocine is another vineyard called the little Pjngadi, in which grow vines of many different kinds, which a man cannot gird with his arms, lint they are not tall, nor do they produce much fruit. In this diocese there live monks of the house of the Teut(mic (knights) in a place called (Praviniunt (/r Perrinunt), also English monks of the order of S. Thomas of Canterbury. There too is a very high mountain, very like to the little Thabor, on the top whereof is a fair moiuistery, in which are monks of S. Benedict. In this mcmastery is the whole cross on which luing the thief at the right hand of Christ, which was brought thither by S. Helena, and this monastery was by her endowed and built. The cross is devoutly saluted by all seafarers when near to death, and in this mountain for the honour paid to that cross God works many miracles. Froui hence mount Libanus is clearly seen. Concernim/ the city of Famagusta. The third city of Cyprus is called Famagusta, situate on the seashore: here are the harbours of all this sea and realm and a concourse of merchants and pilgrims. It lies directly opposite to Armenia, Turkey and Aeon. It is the richest of all cities, and her citizens are the richest of men. A citizen once betrothed his daughter and the jewels of her head-dress were valued by the French knights who came with us iis more precious than all the ornaments of the Queen of France. A certam merchant of this city sold to the Sultan a royal orb of gold, and thereon four precious stones, a ruby, an emerald, a sapphire and a pearl, for sixty thousand rionns; and anon he sought to buy back that orb for a hundred thousand florins, but it was demed him. The Constable of Jerusalem had four pearls which his wife wore by way of a clasp, and, when 3 — 2 20 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. and where he would, he could pledge it for three thousand florins. In this city in one shop is more aloe wood than five carts could carry away. I am silent touching drugs, for they are as common there as bread is here, and are sold as commonly. But I dare not speak of their precious stones and golden tissues and other riches, for it were a thing unheard of and incredible. In this city dwell very many wealthy courtesans, of whom some possess more than one hundred thousand florins. I dare not speak of their riches. Cmicerning Cotistantia or Salamina. Near Famagusta is another city called Constantia or Salamina, set on the seashore, where was once a harbour, and a very noble, famous and wealthy city, as its ruins testify. Here Epiphanius, a man of marvellous holiness, was in wondrous wise elected bishop, and here he was buried. Here too S. Katharina was born, and her chapel still is shown. In this city too S. Barnabas the apostle suffered martyrdom, and near it was burned and there buried. S. Epiphanius gave glory to this city and to all the land by his many miracles, but it is now in part destroyed. Concerning the city of Nycossia. There is another great city in Cyprus called Nycosia. It is the capital of the island, and lies under the mountains in a fine open plain with an excellent climate. In this city, by reason of its well-tempered air and healthfulness, the king of Cyprus and all the bishops and prelates of his realm, the princes and nobles and barons and knights, chiefly live, and daily engage in spear-play and tourneys, and especially in hunting. There are in Cyprus wild rams which are not found in other parts of the world. But they are caught with leopards, in no other way can they be taken. And in Cyprus the princes, nobles, barons and knights are the richest in the world. For one who has a revenue of three thousand florins is no more accounted of there than if he had an income of three marks. But they spend all on the chase. I knew a certain Count of Japhe [Hugues d'Ibelin, Comte de Jaffa et d'Ascalon] who had more than five hundred hounds, and every two dogs have their own servant to guard and bathe and anoint them, for so must dogs be tended there. A certain nobleman has ten or eleven falconers with special pay and allowances. I knew several nobles and knights in Cyprus who could keep and feed two hundred armed men at a less cost than their huntsmen and falconers. For when they go to the chase they live sometimes for a whole month in their tents among the forests and mountains, straying from place to place, hunting with their dogs and hawks, and sleeping in their tents in the fields and woods, carrying all their food and necessaries on camels and beasts of burden. You must know that in Cyprus all the princes, nobles, barons and knights are the noblest, best and richest in the world. They live there now with their children, but they used to live in the land of Syria, and the noble city of Aeon, but when that land and city were lost they fled to Cyprus, and there have remained until the present day. Moreover there are very rich merchants, a thing not to be wondered at, for Cyprus is the furthest of Christian lands, so that all ships and all wares, be they what they may, and come they from what part of the sea they will, must needs come first to Cyprus, and in no wise can they pass it by, and pilgrims from every country journeying to the lands over sea must touch at Cyprus. And daily from the rising of the sun to its going down are heard rumours and news. And the tongues of every nation under heaven are heard and read and talked : and all are taught in special schools. There too in the highest mountains facing the sun is produced excellent wine. At first it is red, but let it stand in an earthen jar four, six or nine years it becomes white. Yet is it not thereby diminished but grows ever stronger, so that commonly men mix one part of wine with nine of water. And were a man to drink a whole cask he would not be drunken, but it would burn and destroy his bowels. Yet many hold it wholesome to drink this wine L. VON SUCHEN. J. MAUNDEVILLE. 21 neat on an empty stomach. In all the world are no greater or better drinkers than in Cyprus. The trees and herbs that grow here are the same as those of the Holy Land. In my days many nobles, barons and knights came hither from Germany, to wit the Count of Fyanden [(xraf Gottfried III. von Vianden], the Count of Suartzborg [Heinrich von Schwarzburg], the lord of Sledin [Schleiden] and nobles of Litchtenstein [Liechtenstein] and several others. The seacoasts of Turkey pay tribute to the king of Cyprus, to wit Candelor, Scabmir [Anamur], Sicce [Sechin] and Scacalia [Adalia] and some other towns and castles.... It would be a long task to set down the other wonderful riches of the island, or to tell of its nobles. J. MAUNDEVILLE. Sir Jolin Maunflcville was born, it is imagined, at St Albans, set out on his travels in 1322, and was buried in 1382 at Liege, where his Voiage and Travaile was written in 1356. The work as we have it is really a compilation of later date from the French. We transcribe from pp. 37—40 of the edition illustrated by Arthur Layard, 8vo, A. Constable, 1895. From this isle of Rhodes men go to Cyprus, where be many vines, that first be red, and after one year they become white : and those wines that be most white be most clear and best of smell.... From Rhodes to Cyprus be five hundred miles and more; but men may go to Cyprus and not touch at Rhodes. Cyprus is a right good isle, and a fair and great, and it hath four principal cities within him, and there is an Archbishop at Nicosia, and four other bishops in that land. And at Fainagosta is one of the princii)al havens of the sea that is in the world; and there arrive Christian men and Saracens, and men of all nations. In Cyprus is the hill of the Holy Cross, and there is an abbey of black monks, and there is the cross of Dismas, the good thief, as I have said before, and some men believe that there is half of the Cross of our Lord, but it is not so, and they do evil who make men to believe so. In Cyprus lies St Zenonimus of whom men of that country make great solemnity ; and in the castle of Amours lieth the body of St Hilarion, and men keep it right worshipfully, and beside Famagusta was St Barnabas the Apostle born. In Cyprus men hunt with papyons [pajylones quos appellant, canes silvestres, acriores quam lupi, Jac. de Vitriaco, Hist. Orient. III.], that be like leopards, and they take wild beasts right well, and they be somewhat more big than lions, and they take more sharply the beasts, and more nimbly than ^ hTcvprus it is the manner of lords and all other men to eat on the earth; for they make ditches in the earth all about m the hall, deep to the knee, and they do pave them^ -d when they will eat, they go therein and sit there, and the reason is that they may be the more cool for that land is much hotter than it is here, and at great feasts, and for strangers. They se orms and tables as men do in this country; but they had rather si m the earth F om Cyprus men go to the land of Jerusalem by the sea, and m a day and night h thit hath good wind may come to the haven of Tyre, that is now clept Sur. Men migh go mo;;! d^ that haven, and t^uch not at Cyprus, but they go gladly to Cyprus, to rest them on the- lan.l, or else to buy things that they need for their living. 22 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. MARTONI. Nicolai de Marthono Notarii Liber Peregrinationis ad Loca Sancta was edited in 1895 for the Revue de I'Orient Latin, t. iii. no. 1, by M. Leon Le Grand, from MS. 6521 in the National Library at Paris. The author, a notary of Carinola, near Calvi in Campania, embarked at Gaeta June 17, 1394, for Alexandria; visited Cairo, M. Sinai and Jerusalem, and on November 27 arrived at Famagosta. In barbarous Latin, but simj)ly and conscientiously, he relates what he saw in that city, at Nicosia and S. Croce. He tells us naively enough of the risks he ran, seeing he was small of stature, short-sighted and could not swim. His troubles were severe, the worst however met him on his return to Carinola, when he learned the death of his wife, which had been hastened by anxiety for his safety. When I reached Famagosta, and hoiv it was huilt. On the 27th of the said month of November (1394) I landed at Famagusta. Famagusta belonged formerly to the king of Cyprus, and is situated in the kingdom of Cyprus. Cyprus is a good island, with a circuit of five hundred miles. But now the Grenoese hold the said town. The city of Famagusta is large, as large, I reckon, as the city of Capua, and has fine squares, and houses very much like those of Capua, but a great part, almost a third, is uninhabited, and the houses are destroyed, and this has been done since the date of the Genoese lordship. The said city has finer walls than I have seen in any town, high with broad alleys round them, and many and high towers all round. This city is jealously guarded day and night by the Genoese through fear of the king of Cyprus. There are seven hundred armed soldiers in the pay of the Genoese who guard that city with great punctuality. Of the castle of the city. The castle of the city is fine, and is nearly all in the sea, except perhaps a fourth part on the city side, and there are fine ditches there constructed on either side which are filled with the sea water, and remain always full of the said water, making the said castle impregnable. Of the harbour of Famagosta. The city of Famagosta has a pretty fine harbour, protected from every wind. And in this harbour in front of the city gate is a wooden jetty, a stone's throw in length, and vessels come up to this jetty, and therefrom merchandise is carried to the vessels. Of the population of the city, and the had air. In this city live a certain number of Genoese, and a large number of Greeks, because the whole island of Cyprus is peopled by Greeks ; and there is made a great quantity of camlet. There is one custom in force in this city, and throughout the island, that no woman can go out of the city of Famagosta without the leave of the Commandant, and cannot escape giving bail in the Commandant's court for her return to the city : and this is rarely granted to any woman. The reason alleged is that men cannot live in that city but for the women who spin and prepare wool for the camlet, for they have hardly any other means of living. There is another reason too for keeping up the men in the city, which for decency's sake I pass over in silence. But the air of the city is very bad ; at all seasons of the year there is mortality, and men die in great numbers, of the Genoese far more than of the Greeks. While I was MAHTONI. 23 there for a montK or more the new Commandant who came from Genoa died, and many others were dying, which terrified me greatly, and I remained those days in the city in great fear, chiefly because I was separated from my companions, and had no helper or worldly adviser to keep me sound and restore me to my country. Of the church of 8. Nicolas. The mother church of Famagosta is dedicated to S. Nicolas, vaulted and very fair, with many chapels round it. The Bishop of that church is a Genoese, who formerly when the city was under the rule of the king of Cyprus had annually from the revenues of the church 4000 ducats. Now, he told me, he had not 2000 ducats a year, because he had lost all his duos from the island since the Genoese came to rule in that city. And I can well believe his poverty, for one day after hearing mass in the said church of 8. Nicolas, finding myself badly in want of money I thought to ask an alms for the love of God of the said bishop, and I approached him with reverence as a pilgrim, and said to him " Father and lord, it is my fate to say those words of the Gospel : ' I cannot dig, to beg I am ashamed.' I beg your paternity to help a poor pilgrim with some charitable donation." He replied that he had not wherewithal to live in that church. I heard matins on the night of the Nativity of our Lord Jesus Christ, and masses and other customary offices during the same feast. Of the fruit-market. Between that church of S. Nicolas and the palace where now dwells the Commandant, which formerly belonged to the king of Cyprus when he ruled in that city — a fine palace with a large fore-court, many buildings and a fair garden — is a court larger than that of Capua, in which ai-e sold bread, a great quantity of vegetables and otlier fruits, just as at Capua ; and daily there are sold there cloths and many other things at auction. This court is, I tliiuk, ill the middle of the city. Of the hotc.se of S. Francis. In this town is a liouse of 8. Francis, passing fair, with a fair cloister, a dormitory, many cells and other rooms, with a fine garden and a quantity of conduits, wells and cisterns. The Guardian told inc tliat tlu'y live badly, and get indifferent alms. Of the church of S. Stephen. In the same city is a church dedicated to S. Stephen, a fine building with a hospital, though at that time the hospital was shabbily kept. In which church I heard a solemn mass on 8. Stephen's day, and saw some bones of his body and many other relics of saints. In this church is a crucifix fairer than I have seen anywhere, adorned and chased all round in pure gold. Of the Monastery of S. Maria de Cammino. In the same city is a monastery of S. Maria de Cannnino. The church is very fair and dignified, vaulted, with chapels round, with very beautiful scenes and pictures, and a right fair cloister with oranges and other fruits. There is also a dormitory, and many other rooms for the use of the monks. In this church I saw the undermentioned holy relics, to wit : The head of the blessed Ursuline, very beautifully shrined in silver. A bone of the shin of S. I-eo, Pope. The head of S. Cufinus. The head of S. Sosius. And a piece of the wood of the holy cross of our Lord. 24 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Of the Monastery of 8. Dominic. There is in this city a monastery of S. Dominic, in which is a fair vaulted church. There is a fair cloister with gardens, a dormitory and other buildings for the use of the monks, though most of them are in ruins. At present all the monks live in a shabby way in this city of Famagosta. Of the villages of Famagosta. Outside the city of Famagosta there were formerly large and populous villages — I reckon there were two thousand hearths — and in them many fair churches. But now the said villages are wholly destroyed, so that there is not one sound house, and not one person lives there. There are many seemly churches, among which is the church of S. Maria of the cave, very seemly, and many people, Latins, and Greeks, go to the said church to pray. Of the building of the city of Famagosta. One part of this city of Famagosta is close to the sea, and another larger part is away from the sea : it is encompassed with very fine ditches built throughout. The whole city, or at least its walls, are based on stone as hard as marble, so that it cannot possibly be hewn out : and in the city on the seaside is an arsenal, large and fine like that of Naples. Formerly, that is a hundred years ago, the city was set elsewhere, and stood where is a place named Constanza, four miles from Famagosta. The city was then called Constanza from a king Constantius, father of the blessed Catherine, who built it. It was two miles from the sea, and had no harbour. And when Acre was lost, which was the last place in Syria lost by the Christians, all the people who escaped from Acre fled to the island of Cyprus, and then that ancient city Constanza was removed to the place where is now Famagosta. Of the women's dress. And hence comes a custom that all women, as well of that town of Famagosta as of the other towns of the island, wear black mantles on their heads so that their faces can hardly be seen. And this custom began and has been followed on account of the sorrow and dire grief for the loss of that city of Acre and other cities of Syria, and the greater part of the city of Famagosta was made up of the people of Acre. Of the bad air. Between the city of Famagosta and the ancient city of Constantia is a large marsh, which seems like an arm of the sea. And it is held that on account of that marsh, and the great number of courtesans, a bad air affects the men who dwell in that city. Of the place where 8. Catherine was born. And because through the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ Who permitted me to do so I saw all the story of the blessed Catherine, and all that she did, as well in Alexandria, the place of her prison and the glorious martyrdom which she endured in honour of our Lord Jesus Christ on the wheel between those two columns, as in her church, where her glorious body was placed by the holy angels on the summit of that great mountain, and then her holy body which was translated from that lofty mountain to her own church of S. Catherine, I desired also to see the place of her nativity ; wherefore on the fifth day of December of the third indiction I went to that ancient city Constantia four miles distant from Famagosta, MARTONI. 25 which was once a great city built by the Emperor Constantius, father of the blessed Catherine, but now is utterly destroyed, and went to the place where one can see the castle of the city stood, which seems to have been of great size, and there directly is that room, now destroyed, where the blessed Catherine was born : near it now stands a seemly chapel, to which the people of Famagosta go with great devoutness and frequency. Of the great tank. In the middle where the castle stood is a certain ancient cistern, no bigger one I think • is found in the world, with a vault raised on thirty-six columns and with apertures above whence the water was drawn. Into this tank water flowed continuously from a certain mountain, along a conduit built with pillars and arches, just as at Scolo, an appurtenance of the castle of Trajetto or Garigliano. Of the 'place where the blessed Catherine was betrothed by an angel as the spouse of Christ. Concerning the blessed Catherine I was told in that city of Famagosta a story (I cannot just now remember if it is contained in her Legend) how, when she was grown up and the fairest and wisest of women, her father and mother sought to give her in marriage, and the Saint who was rapt in divine love said thus: "I will not accept a husband unless I find one as fair and wise and rich as I am." At last the Empress, S. Catherine's mother, seeing this to be her daughter's will, said, " Thou seekest, my child, one of whom I cannot tell you, a man as fair and wise and rich as thou art. In an island in the sea not far hence is a hermit who serves God, go to him and ask him about a husband dowered with rank, beauty and wealth even as thou art." »S. Catherine replied, " I am ready," and went to that hermit, and asked him about taking such a husband. He said to her, " I cannot tell you about taking a husband, except One who is wise and learned, fair and rich as you desire." S. Catherine said, " Who is he of whom you speak ? " The hermit said, " It is our Lord Jesus Christ." Then said S. Catherine, " And I desire Him for my spouse and lord, and to serve only Him." And as she stood tli(>re an angel of the Lord came down by night from heaven, and on behalf of our Lord Jesus Christ betrothed her with a ring, and received her for the bride of Christ. And 80 it was on the sixth of tliat month of December I went myself to the said island where S. Catherine was betrothed to Christ by the angel, which island is about two bowshots distant froin Famagosta, and near the harbour. The island is about one modius (IO665 yards) large, and therein is a cliuicli dedicated to S. Catherine, very seemly. When I left Famagosta to go to the city of Nicosia. Being desirous of visiting the spot where is the blessed cross of Cyprus whereon hung the body of the good thief, on Wednesday, the ninth day of December, I went first to the city of Nicosia, where resides the king of Cyprus. I hired at a certain sum a cart to take me to Nicosia. The owner of the cart, who was a Greek, made me drive the cart with the oxen which carried me, and often quarrelled with me because I did not drive them properly, and because I beat the oxen too much. I did not know what to do, because I had never practised this art. With which quarrelling I travelled all day to a village where I slept that night on a rug on the ground, for in those parts beds are not to be found for money, and nearly every- one sleeps on the groinid ; and thr(jughout the island there are so many fleas that a man 4 26 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. cannot sleep at night, and this on account of the pigs which they keep in their houses. In the morning I rose early, and continued my journey to Nicosia on foot, being unwilling to squabble with the owner of the cart who was always complaining about my beating the oxen and my bad driving. When I reached Nicosia, and about the shape of the city. On Thursday, December 10, I walked all day, and towards sunset reached the city of Nicosia. Nicosia is larger, I consider, than Aversa, and through its midst flows a brook which a man can cross on stones when it does not rain. When it is rainy weather a great quantity of water runs down, and so there are several bridges over the stream, some of stone and some of wood, by which men cross during rain. In some parts the city is but sparsely inhabited, and there are fine houses. The house in which the king of Cyprus lives is fine ; it has a courtyard as large as that of the new castle at Naples, and many fine apartments round it, among which is a large hall. At the end of that hall is a very beautiful throne with many fair columns and ornaments of various kinds. I fancy that few things or none will be found more beautiful than that throne. Around the hall runs a kind of arcade, beautifully adorned with columns. Such daring had I that I went right up to the entrance of the king's room, and had the door been open I was ready to enter and talk with him. In the courtyard of that house is a fountain of good water, to which many of the city folk come to draw water for their use. The king of Cyprus lives most of his time in this city of Nicosia, since he lost the city of Famagosta, and keeps great state, especially as regards the chase, for he has twenty-four leopards and three hundred hawks of all kinds, some of which he takes every day to hunt. Of Santa Sofia. The said city of Nicosia has an Archbishop, and his church is dedicated to S. Sofia, it is a fair and great church, vaulted, and the whole of the vault from the choir-arch to the high altar is painted -with fine blue and golden stars. The church was formerly worth 25,000 ducats a year, but now the king of Cyprus annexes and takes a large part of its dues. Of the Monasteries and the condition of the city. In this city are monasteries and places, of S. Francis to wit, of S. Dominic and S. Augustine, which are very large and fair, and each monastery has two cloisters, one large and another small, with oranges and other fruits. Within the city are many gardens and orchards, and fields sown vsdth green stuff, wheat and barley. And truly near the monastery of S. Augustine I saw a field sown with wheat and barley within the walls of the city of about 30 modia (over 6 acres). I saw too the gardens of S. Theodore, which is a church of Nuns, also within the walls of the city, of cabbages and sundry other fruits, which are of about 20 modia (over 4^ acres). In another place you would think you saw the city of Alisia, with shrubs and gardens in it. In this city is abundance of bread and wine, and the wine is generally sweet, and is kept in large jars because they have no casks. I intended to remain there a month or so, on account of the abundance of bread and wine, but I could not because there are no innkeepers who keep beds to lodge strangers in, and but for a good woman called Ambrosa from the parts of the west, who for the love of Grod lent me a room with a bed, I should have had to sleep all those days on the ground. MARTONI. 27 Of the blessed cross of Cyprus. Desirous however to visit the blessed cross of the good thief, which is called the cross of Cyprus, I left Nicosia after dinner on December 15 and went towards the mountain where is the holy cross, keeping the road without a guide : and walking all day I arrived at night tired and troubled enough at a village one day's journey from the mountain or church of the holy cross, hoping that with money I should find a bed for the night, to rest and refresh my body. I could get nothing but a rug, upon which I slept that night with the greatest discomfort, on account of those accursed Heas which bit me incessantly. So I rose very early in the morning and with a donkey which I hired arrived at dawn in bitter cold at a village on the skirts of the mountain of the holy cross. There I took some food and began to ascend the said mountain. The ascent is eight miles long, and there are several hills one after another all full of trees called zihini, a wild pine which produces many cones in which is no fruit. These trees grow in great numbers, and supply roofing for houses and fuel for fire. With what trouble and toil and sweat, what weakness of soul and body I climbed those hills up to the church God knows! About the hour of vespers I reached the church. It is small, but very seemly ; on the right-hand side is a little chapel, and there is the said blessed cross, raised and suspended, and nowhere attached, which seems a great miracle ; and in this cross is a piece of the wood of the blessed cross of our Lord Jesus Christ covered with silver. And after 1 had dtivoutly seen, examined and adored that holy cross the monks who live there showed me these relics, to wit : A large piece of S. Anne. An arm of S. Blaise. A nail fixed in the hands of Christ. A rib of H. (ieorge. A stone with which S. Stephen was stoned. And a piece of the wood of the said cross. When I had reverently seen these I begged the monks, because the abbot of the church was not there, to allow me to sleep that night with them, because on account of the great toil and the long and bad road I knew that I had not strength to go down that night to the village which I hal, and there they surrounded him, and made these terms with him, that he would put 5 c. 34 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. away his favourite and not let him approach the court for a year. The king swore to this, and it was straightway carried out and the people retired. The next day the king sent for me, and before the Cardinal and some nobles told me and begged me to accept from him what I pleased for the expenses of my journey, and I replied that I thanked him much, that I had enough for my return, and that I prayed him to order that leave be given me to go, and a fusta to take me as far as Rhodes : and I strove as much as I could to leave and he to keep me. And he bid me stay there at least eight days, and I because I saw that it pleased him had to do so, and certainly in these days I was so greatly refreshed that I could not have been better, and the vessel which was to take me was made ready, and I took my leave of the king, and with real unwillingness he gave me the permission to go, and there he gave me his Order, which I have still : he gave me also ten pieces of camlet and delicate linen, and a leopard, and so much victuals to take me to Rhodes as would suffice for a year. And at the time I was there there came two embassies to the king of Cyprus, one from the Duke of Savoy, and another from a Duke of Germany, each of them to arrange a marriage between his daughter and the king : and he made no bargain with either, because (it was said) the Grrand Master of Rhodes was proposing to him a much desired alliance with a daughter of the Count of Urgel of Arragon, sister to the wife of the Infante Don Pedro, Regent of Portugal. It appeared however to me that that to which the king's councillors most inclined was with the daughter of the Duke of Savoy, and that I believe was adopted. The king was a youth of sixteen or seventeen, and tall, although his legs were certainly as thick or but little less thick about the knees as at the thighs. He is a graceful person, and for his age of plenty of intelligence, lively and active, especially in riding. Certainly were the country not so unhealthy I would willingly enough have determined to enter his service for a while. But it was almost impossible for a stranger to live in so unwholesome a country, and for that reason and for the longing I had to return to Castile, on account of the war with the Moors, I had to continue my journey with all speed. I left the city of Nicosia and went to Aherines, where the vessel awaited me which was to take me to Rhodes. It is an ancient city built by Achilles, from whom it takes its name : small but strong, and well walled, with a good harbour, which though small is closed with a chain and well defended. Hither took refuge the present king, with his uncle the Cardinal and Madame Ines and many others of the kingdom when king Janus was taken prisoner. It is the most healthy district of the whole kingdom of Cyprus, because it lies open to the west wind (pp. 119—123). PERO TAFUR W. WEY. CAPODILISTA. 35 W. WEY. William Wey, Fellow of Eton College, reached Paphos, July 9, 1458, and returned to it on August 7, to find the king, Jean II., dead, and his daughter Charlotte reigning in his stead. From the Itineraries, published by the Roxburghe Club, 4to, London, 1857, I copy one short passage, and translate another. In Cipresse ye schal haue grotis of sylver and half grotis, and other denars of black money, and be.sauntis: and halfe a besaunte ys worth XLVIII denars, and vil besauntys and half to a doket of Venyse. A grot of Cypres ys worth XXXVIII denars (page 3). From Rhodes we came to Paphus on July 9. There 8. Paul was imprisoned in a spot belonging to the Friars Minor, and there is S. Paul's fountain. Also two miles from Famacosta, in a city called Constantia, S. Katerina was born. Also in Famacosta is a chapel in tlu; church of the Friars Minor behind the High Altar and the spot where S. Katerina learned to read. Also in the city of Nicocea, which is one of the chief cities of Cyprus, there lies the whole body of the lord Moinitford, once an English Knight, in the abbey of the Order of S. Benedict, and there he is revered as a .saint, and two hundred years and a little more have passed since he was buried there. Also outside Nicocea is the body of S. Mamma, which exudes oil : also the body of the Abbot Ilarion. CAPODILISTA. Count GaV)riele Caiwdilista, a gentleman of Padua, visited Cyprus in 1458. On his return to Italy a friend, Paolo Boncanibio, edited from his notes the Itinerario della Terra Santa nel 1458, a rare volume in small quarto, without a date, but printed probably at Perugia about 1485. Queen Helena I'aLaeologus, wife of Jean II., died April 11, 1458. Lo Postoleo (le Postide on VElu, H. de C, III. H'2, I' ApontoiUv, ui. 105, rApo.stnlle, in. 106, Ajjontelerius Cypricus, in. 166, 6 'Anoa-ToXr)!, G. Boustron, el pnilre el fene Fontiilatu, Malipiero) was Jaques II. de Lusignan, then titular archbishop of Nicosia. This extract is translated from De Mas Latrie, Histoire, vol. iii. pp. 76, 77. I'^riday, June 10, in the morning, their course brought them close to the island of Cyprus. Tliey passed C. Epiphauio, and a city called Papho, ruined and almost without inhabitants. At XXIII of the clock they reached a little village called Episcopia, very rich in sugar, which belongs, I think, to some Venetian gentlemen of the house of Cornero. At this place they received news that the Queen of Cyprus was dead, and that the king, scarcely caring any more for sovereignty, had made a bastard son, called Lo Postoleo, his lieutenant; also that it was supposed that th(> Turk was coming to those parts. 'Phey stayed a little while in this village and saw some most lovely gardens of oranges, citrons and carobs, and some other trees called banana, which produce fruit very much like small cucumbers; when it is ripe it is yellow and very sweet of savour. ..and they saw many fields of sugar cane : and these gardens and fields are watered by running streams, and bulbs and squills grow there in abundance. Miser Gabriel and his companions went on shore at this l)lace Ei)iscoi)ia; the air there is very bad, and they all got ill, one of a fever, another of a Hu.x, except M. (iabriele who remained well ; but for fifteen days his chest and stomach suffered from nausea from having imbibed that foul and almost pestiferous air; and some of his companions died. 5—2 36 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Sunday, June 18, coasting along the island they passed Cape G-avata and Limisso, and then came on Saline where was once a city called vSellamina, and here MM. Anthonio and Grabriele, on their return from Jerusalem, went on shore, and taking horses travelled all night, and with morning arrived at a city of Cyprus called Nicossia, eleven miles from Saline. They alighted at the house of that worshipful gentleman M. Andrea Cornero, of Venice, by whom they were received with affectionate courtesy, as though they had been his own brothers. On the morrow he took Miser Antonio and Miser G-abriele to visit the king's Majesty. He was in a convent of monks, and received them with gracious kindness, and gave to the honourable Miser Gabriele his order, fastening it on his breast with his own hand. It is a sword encirled by the legend " POUR LIUTE MANTENER." With the royal permission, and after homage paid to this most noble king, they returned to Miser Andrea's house, and the next day, after they had seen the town, they went to a palace of the king's two miles beyond, called La Cava, where was an endless profusion of oranges, citrons, lemons, and many other valuable fruits, and very great wells from which all that garden is watered. FELIX FABER. Felix Faber, a Dominican monk of Ulm, made and recorded two pilgrimages to the Holy Land. He started on the first and shorter of these on April 14, 1480, and touched Cyprus twice : on the second occasion he left Ulm April 14, 1483, landed in Cyprus on June 25, and again on his retm-n, November 7 of the same year. Yet in the third of the articles drawn up at Venice between the pilgi-ims and the owner of the galley it is specified (i. 89) that the captain shall visit no unusual ports : " and we particularly desire that he shall keep away from Cyprus, and not touch there, or if he be obliged to touch there that he shall not remain more than three days in port ; because we have it by tradition from our elders that the air of the island is pestiferous to Germans. If, however, any of us wish to visit Nicosia, to present ourselves to the Queen, and to receive the insignia of her Order, the captain must wait for them, as is the old custom with nobles while the island had still a king." (This was no doubt the Order of the Sword, with its noble motto " Cest pour Loiaute maintenir" founded by Guy de Lusignan, 1195. So Favine, TlieMre d'honneur &c. 1620, but M. de Mas Latrie makes Pieri-e I. the founder.) This Evagatorium in Terrae Sanctae, Arabiae et Egypti Peregrinationem was edited in 3 vols., 8vo, 1843 — 1849, from his autograph ms. preserved in the Library at Ulm, for a literary society at Stuttgart, by C. D. Hassler, a Professor in the Gymnasium of Ulm. His style is divertingly quaint, his Latin divertingly bad. Travelling more than a hundred years before I. van Kootwyck he has even worse to relate of the dangers and discomforts of the journey. What is valuable to us is what this active and intelligent monk saw with his eyes and recorded with his pen, not the scraps of old world learning which he painfully collected in the library at Ulm. So we omit his history of Cyprus (in. 217 — 230) from Japhet to Catarina Cornaro. A good paper by Professor E. Oberhummer, printed as a Separatabdruck aus Ausland, 1892, nr. 23 — 26, gives a summary of all that has been written about M. Santa Croce, from the earliest Greek geographer to the latest German geologist. A Marcellus = 2 baiocchj, 10^ silver Marcelli = l ducatone of Venice, al. coined by the Doge Nicolo Marcello (1472—1474) and worth about 10 soldi. On Monday we came to Cyprus, and made for the harbour of Limovicus, because a contrary wind forced us to seek a port. When that died down we sailed to the hai-bour of Nimonia, to tarry there some days, because our captain had a brother with the Queen of Cyprus in Nichosia, with whom he had business, and we had to wait until it was done (l. 41). \_The 'pilgrims go to Jaffa and Jerusalem, and in less than a month are again in Cyprus, all of them weary or sickJ] CAPODILISTA. FELIX FABER. 37 With good weather we returned to the port called Salina : there we took the weaker pilgrims to a town hard by, the sounder of us went with our captain on hired horses to Nychosia, which is the metropolis of Cyprus and the royal residence, six German miles from the sea. It is an ancient custom that the knights of the Holy Sepulchre present themselves to the king of Cyprus and make with him a kind of pact. He calls them his companions, and enters their names in a book, and gives them a silver dagger in a sheath with a belt for it, and at the end of the dagger hangs a silver flowret like a violet, in token of the alliance between them. For this reason my lord (reorius de Lapide, whom I never left, with other nobles entered Nichosia and stayed there three days. But because the kingdom of Cyprus has now no king, the nobles begged of the Queen to be received into the companionship of the kings of Cyprus. She summoned them to a large banqueting hall, and when they were set before her proposed to them through an interpreter the statutes of that companionship, which are : that they should strive to help the kingdom of Cyprus in its need, since it lies midway between Saracens, Turks and Tartars. They pledged their faith to the Queen with their hands, and she delivered to them the daggers, and allowed them to depart. We then returned on horseback to the sea. Moreover we passed on the road the skirts of a certain very high mountain, on the crest of which is a chapel, in which they told us is set the cross of the thief on our Lord's right, suspended in wonderful \vise, which I would gladly have seen. But I had no time, and so put this off until my second pilgrimage. When we reached (nir galley we found two pilgrims dead : one was a priest of the Order of S. Francis, a strong and learned man, the other was a tailor of Picardy, an honest and good fellow, ethers wi're in their death agonies. We too who came from Nichosia took to our beds with a great illness, and the sick were now so many that there were no servants to supply their urgent wants. The old ladies, seeing our need, were moved to pity for us, and tended us, for not one of them was ill. Herein did Cod by the strength of these women confound the pride of the knights who had Houted them at Venice, and willed not to travel with them. For they ran about the galley from one sick man to another, and tended in their berths those who had spurned and derided them. Besides these sicknesses and discomforts there arose new fear of the Turks, and our terror was greater than ever. Meanwhile the captain had taken the galley to sea, but the wmd gave us no help, and we cruised uselessly along the coast of Cyprus. So we put in again at the barren port of Limona, and waited impatiently for a favouring breeze. Two days later we put out again to sea. But a foul wind carried us farther than ever away from the land, and out of our course, and so we strayed about for many days to no purpose, and began to suffer on board froTu a lack of all necessaries. One knight died miserably, whom we wrapped in a sheet weighted with stones, and committed with weeping to the deep. Three days later another knight went mad, and died howling in his pain. Him we took m a boat to bury on shore, for we were close to the coast near Paphus. We had a wretched passage and suffered for want of water, bread and other things. A foul wind drove us out ot sight of Cyprus, and for three days and nights we saw no land; later on we were agam earned into the harbour <.f I'aphus, which is mentioned in Acts xiii. There we bought what was needful, and sailing out drifted aimlessly along the coast (l. 42—44). On June 'i.^, \m, we came over against the most ancient harbour of Cyprus which is called Paphus, and mentioned m Acts xiii. (5 and 13, near which we saw the mount of Venus, as shall\ell on my return, and sailed slowly up to mid day. Then a fresh ^^"^ and carried us along the coast speedily to the port of Limonnia and Biscopia, and towards 38 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. evening we put into the port of Salina, and made fast the ship with anchors and poles. The captain had himself and his servants at once taken ashore, hired horses and rode to Nicosia, which is the capital of Cyprus, to the Queen, for he wished to see his wife who was the Queen's bedchamber woman. When the captain had left we pilgrims stood on the galley looking at the shore, and I stood with them, talking to those who were near me about the barrenness of that port, and the condition of the land, for in my former pilgrimage I had stayed there several days. I pointed out to the gentlemen the places which I knew, and among them the mountain of S. Cross. It is the highest in the whole kingdom, and on the crest is a church in which hangs the cross of the thief who was crucified on Christ's right hand, and I told them what is said about that cross as will appear presently. And when these gentlemen and other pilgrims were wondering about the cross, and looking at the mountain, which was five Grerman miles from us, I said to them, " Look here, my dear brethren, the captain has gone to Nicosia, and will hardly be back by to-morrow evening. We cannot start before his return, and to-morrow we shall have a very long and wearisome day. Now then, if any one will come with me to the holy mountain, let him come to the poop, and we will visit the holy cross and be here early to-morrow. With these words I went off to the poop, and many of the nobles followed me thinking I was joking. I brought up a servant to the poop who knew the way to the holy cross, and promised that each of my companions should give him a Marcella, and hired a boatman to put us on shore. And when the gentlemen saw that the affair was no joke they left my company, with the exception of these who stayed with me. My lord Heinrich von Schaumburg, a noble knight and brave man. John the Priest, an archdeacon of Transylvania, a devout and learned man. Caspar Siculi, knight, a daring and vigorous youth. Burchai'd von Nusdorf, knight, a good and cheerful man. One Rudolf, a Swiss of Zurich, a tall and honest man. One John, a merchant of Flanders, a very thirsty soul. And I brother Felix, who had stirred them all to go, and a servant whom I had hired, called Andreas. We eight got into the boat, landed and conferred about our pilgrimage. The hour was late, the sun had set, it was growing dark. Our servant and guide led us thus in the dusk to a town called Ornyca, a mile from the sea, and there fetched up a countryman known to him. This man brought out bread and wine and cheese, and we ate and drank. We hired in the town eight mules, which we mounted, and went off jubilant. Meanwhile the moon rose, scattered the darkness and gladdened us with her light. We were eight picked friends, the weather was fine, the country famous and the road good. The bushes gave out a most sweet smell, for nearly all the plants of the island are aromatic, and particularly fragrant at night when bathed in dew. We continued our journey until the rising of the morning star, and reached a village called Santa Croce; there we tied up our beasts, and my companions lighted a lamp and drank. I said matins and abstained, because I proposed to celebrate mass on the mountain. We lay down to take a little rest, and slept until it was high morn, lying beside our beasts on the ground. On the 26th, the feast of the holy martyrs John and Paul, when we got up we begged the Greek before whose house we rested to provide a good meal for us, for we intended to return from the mountain hungry. We mounted our beasts and went on, having the holy mount before our eyes, and shuddering somewhat at its height. However, at its foot we came to a delightful valley, through the midst of which flowed a stream, clear, sweet and sparkling; its course was full of beautiful flowers unknown to us, and of fragrant shrubs. There were FELIX FABER. 39 many trees full of carobs, which the vulgar call 8. John's bread. We wound up this valley in grateful shade, for the sun which was already firing the adjoining hills could not yet reach us in the valley. At last we arrived at a steep slope which our beasts could not climb : we tied them to trees, and toiled up on foot perspiring freely. For the mountain is high and precipitous, and exactly resembles M. Thabor in the Holy Land, on which our Lord was transfigured. I heard this from one who had ascended both. When we reached the top we knelt in prayer before the church, and sat down in the breeze before entering it, to recover our breath, to wipe off our sweat and get cool. Then, as was fitting, I hurried on before the rest, entered the church and pulled the bell to warn the sacristan. There appeared at once a clerk who knew no Latin. He brought out some very old Latin books, with what else was necessary for the mass. The bell was rung, and I read the mass of the Holy Cross, with the collects for the holy martyrs John and Paul, and for travellers. After mass I returned tf) my brethren and preached to them on the fitting veneration of the Holy Cross, and explained the difference between the cross we were going to see, and that of our Lord, and the respect to be shown to each. I exhorted them also not to pry too curiously, nor crave to see a miracle, for not even in Jerusalem, in the most holy sepulchre of our Lord, were we going to see a miracle, much less should we expect one here. This I said because we heard about that cross strange and wonderful things which were to be seen there. I then took a lighted candle, and passed over to where the cross was : my brother pilgrims followed me, and the chaplain accompanied me. When we came to the place the chaplain opened it, so that we had the holy cross bef(jre our eyes. I first went up and kissed the cross, and observed it carefully before and behind. Then my companions approached and did it reverence, one after the other looking at it carefully. The cross is fairly large, covered in front with silver-gilt plates, but on the side to the wall it is bare, of a fair and sound wood like cypress. They say it is the cross of Dysmas, the thief on the right hand to whom Jesus on the cross promised Paradise. For 8. Helen when she found under Mount Calvary three crosses threw away one, namely that of Gesmas, the thief on the left. The second, that of Dysmas, she kept for herself. The thii-d, the cross of Christ, she exposed to the veneration of the whole world. But her own cross, that of Dysmas, she carried whole from Jerusalem to this mountain, and here she built a large monastery of monks, and a church, in which she left this cross as a relic of rare value, and caused to be built for it near the altar a niche or shrine, and set it therein. And there it still remains, untouched, though long since the monastery was utterly destroyed by the Turks and Saracens, and the monks of S. Benedict, who served the church, are scattered. Wonderful is the position or location of this cross iji its place. It is in a niche dimly lighted, both its arms are sunk in recesses made in the wall, and its foot is sunk in a recess in the Hoor. But the recesses of the arms and the foot are large, disproportionately so to what they hold, yet does not the cross touch the wall, but is absolutely free from any contact wth it; and this is the wonderful story about the cross that it hangs in the air without support, and yet it stands as firmly as though it were attached by the strongest nails, or bonded to the wall, which it is not, for all these recesses are large, so that a man can put in his hand and feel that there is no fixture in the back or the head of the cross. 1 might have examined it more curiously than I did, but I feared (xod, and what I forbade others to do I ought not to do tnys(>lf. For 1 ascended this inouTitain to do honour to this cross, not to find a miracle or to tempt (jod. That this cross may be the more worthy of veneration they have set in it a small piece of the true cross of Christ. In this chapel hangs a bell, which we rang, and I said to my companions that w(> should bear tio more bells until we returned to Christian lands. 40 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. And this was true, for thenceforth for four months we heard no bell but this, which we believe was put up by S. Helena, who set here this cross. But what moved that holy woman to set this cross here ? We might say that she had many excellent reasons. First for the destruction of gentile rites and errors. For on this mountain stood a temple dedicated to Venus, who claimed indeed the patronage of the whole island because she left throughout marks of her wantonness. Helena therefore destroyed the shrine, and set up the cross for a rule of chastity, and bid religious men, vowed to chastity, live here to give the lie to Venus. She changed the name of the mountain : it was formerly called Ydolius, now Santa Croce. 'Twas said too of old that Perseus, sire of all the nobility of Greece, took his flight from this mountain to free Andromeda, who was bound to a rock at Joppa and left to be devoured by a sea monster. Hence too he flew to fight the Gorgon. These fantastic stories drew many people hither. So the holy woman placed here the cross from which the good thief flew to Paradise. Secondly, she did this for the comfort of the Cypriots. For in a certain part of the mountain is a cleft, whence were heard rumblings and a roar of wind. It was said to be a way down to hell, and hence the Cypriots feared hell the more when they saw they had among them an entrance thereto. To meet this vain fear this holy woman set up the cross. Thirdly, she did this to stir the devotion of pilgrims. For those who journey towards the Holy Land long with all their hearts to see that land, and the nearer they approach the warmer is their desire. From this mountain the Holy Land is seen in fine weather. So that of old time pilgrims climbed it to see that much desired country. Wherefore S. Helen set here the cross and built the convent to stir the devotion and give comfort to pilgrims. Fourthly, she did it for our instruction, signifying that he who would reach to the Cross of Christ must first take on himself the thief's cross of penitence. When we had finished our visit to the church we went out and entered the cell of the chaplain, hoping to find there something for our refreshment. But the room was empty and bare, there was neither cold water nor biscuit, nor could he talk to us, because he was a pure Greek, to whom Latin was Barbaric, Italian Arabic, and German Tartar. So we went out without refreshment, and strolled about on the top of the mountain, and saw there remnants of thick walls belonging to the temple of Venus. Looking to the shore on every side we saw the island in all its length and breadth. But on account of the extreme heat the air was somehow dark and cloudy, and we could not see the Holy Land, nor the mountains of Armenia, Cappadocia, Coelesyria, or Galilee, all of which would have been visible if we had had a clear day. Finally we entered the church, saluted and kissed the holy cross, and hurried down the mountain to our mules, and rode to the town of Santa Croce. We found dinner ready, and gave thanks and ate. We could not leave the place at once, for it had grown very hot and the sun burned like fire. So we went over to a Greek church hard by, to pray and to rest a little in the shade. While we were sitting there a certain clerk came, who said to us in Latin, " What are you doing in a Greek church ? close at hand is a Latin church in which you should pray and rest." We rose and went with him to the Latin church. He produced from the treasure of the church the arm of S. Ann, mother of the Blessed Virgin Mary, decently set in silver. He brought out also a nail likewise sheathed in silver, which he said was one of the nails with which Christ was nailed on the cross. We kissed these relics, and pressed our rosaries against them, as I said before. I learned that this clerk was a monk, which I could not have known from his dress, for he wore a habit of camlet, and was curate of both churches, the Greek and the Latin, and performed indifferently the offices of either rite. On Sundays he first said mass in the Latin church, and consecrated the Host, as do the FELIX FABER. 41 Westerns, in unleavened bread. This done, he went over to the Greek church and consecrated as do the Easterns, in leavened bread. This displeased us mightily, and I set down that priest as a heretic of the worst kind, deceiving the people of both rites. For the two are incompatible in one person and scarcely tolerable in the same city, because of the great difference in many grave and capital points. The Roman Church once tolerated the G-reek rite, but even then a man could not be at one time both a Greek and a Latin : much less now, when the Church condemns them as schismatics and heretics, and the Greeks themselves follow us not in their offices, and every Sunday tell their people that the Latin Church is excommunicate, and hate us Latins with a mortal hatred. How then can an honest man and good Catholic be a Latin and Greek curate ? No one would do this except he willed to satisfy his covetousness or his fancy. For such men take on themselves what in each rite catches their fancy, but reject what is hard and burdensome in both. Many Latin priests go over to the Greek rite, and presume to take wives, but they wish at the same time to enjoy the privileges of Latin priests, in which they have no part. The sun's heat began to abate, and mid-day being past we mounted our beasts and descended towards the sea to the church of S. Lazarus, which is near the shore, our galley being in front of us a long way out ; there we gave up our mules to their owners. There was a great gathering of men on the shore on account of our galley, and our seamen brought ashore their wares, and trafficked with the Cypriots. And so it was in every port at which we touched. We watched their marketing, and then went back to our galley to our companions, and found them cross and grumbling because the captain had not returned, and they had passed a weary day. And all the pilgrims crowded round us to hear what we had seen. They called us lucky men, and grieved that they had not gone with us. On the 27th, when we found the captain still tarried, some of the pilgrims were again rowed to the shore, of whom I was one. But most of them stayed in the ship, fearing the air of Cyprus, which is generally hurtful to Germans, unless they are of good constitutions and strong. At the back of the town is a place surrounded by hills, which at certain times the rising sea fills with water, making a kind of lake ; and when the Hood retires the sea water left therein is refined into excellent salt, very white and valuable. This salt is taken for sale to many countries, and the Queen of Cyprus receives a large income from the salt merchants. On my first voyage I saw many men working there, separating the salt from the water which was not yet congealed ; and there were heaps of salt there quite like little hills. But now there was not a single man, and where the salt heaps stood was deep water. We returned to the galley towards evening, very wroth with the captain. The same evening the woman returned who was left behind at Rhodes. There was little joy at her coming. But I pitied the poor thing on account of the trouble she fell into by leaving the ship. On the 28th the captain arrived from Nicosia wth some Cypriots who desired to visit the holy places in Jerusalem. Among them was a pretty woman of the Queen's household who proposed to end her life there. We weighed anchor, and ^^^th a light wind moved slowly out of the port ( I. 171 — 179). In the whole realm of Cyprus are four bishoprics or dioceses. The first is in Nicosia, which is the capital, now a great city, not on the sea but five German miles away in the heart of the island ; surrounded by fertile and pleasant hills. A large torrent runs through its midst, which at certain seasons rushes down in a mighty stream : when I was there it had not a dnjp of water. Here are merchants from every part of the world, Christians and infidels. There are stores, great and precious, for the aromatic herbs of the East are brought here raw, 6 42 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. and are prepared by the perfumer's art. The island itself abounds in dyes and perfumes, so that the stores of Nicosia are a source from which such drugs flow over the world. There are many churches in the city, both Greek and Latin. The Latin have belfries and bells and clergy who officiate according to the Latin rite. The Grreek have towers (pinnacula) and wooden instruments with which they summon the people to divine service, and they sing and read in Greek. The metropolitan church is Latin, dedicated to S. Sophia. It is pretty large and well decorated, and maintains an archbishop, canons and clergy. On the right of the church is a chapel dedicated to S. Thomas Aquinas, in which the legends of the holy doctor are exquisitely painted, while a gilt plaque on the altar sets forth his acts. In this chapel I saw a remarkable monument, which I will describe. For at the side there stood, and still stands, a large and beautiful tomb, of great value, made of precious jasper. I measured it with my own hands, and found it twelve palms or spans in length, seven in depth and five broad, and one in thickness, the whole of solid stone. It has a cover of the same dimensions, " a dos d'ane" in the usual form, of the same stone and price. The colour is generally green, but the stone which is polished is spotted with other colours, which add to the beauty of such marble. It is said to have as many virtues as it has spots, and these spots, which are innumerable, are red or rosy as though the stone had been sprinkled with blood. Those who carry it about chastely will find in it these virtues. It drives away phantoms, checks fevers, cures dropsy, helps women in childbed, preserves a man in danger, allays inward heat, stanches blood, represses passion and its consequences, cures inveterate ulcers, purges the eyes, and strengthens and comforts their use, is proof against witchery and spells, and more efficacious set in silver than in gold. It is found only in the mountains of Scythia, where it is of excellent quality, and whole cliffs and rocks of it exist. But lest so precious a treasure should remain unguarded, and its plenty render it valueless, God has set round those mountains very strong and fierce guardians, the gryphons, most savage beasts who resist the approach of strangers, running and flying upon them, and tearing them with their beaks and claws, so that no one can come near the stone until he has overcome the gryphons. Jason had to battle with them for the golden fleece, and Hercules for the golden apples of the garden of the Hesperides. These gryphons are most fierce creatures, with the heads of eagles and the bodies of lions, they fly like the one and run like the other, and have such daring and strength that they attack an armed horseman, and carry off both man and beast whither they will : they are indeed huge and savage beasts. The head, beak and wings are fashioned as those of an eagle, their forefeet also, which have long claws : the hinder feet and the tail are those of a lion, but the legs are shorter, and the claws short and so large that drinking cups are made of them. It is said these beasts are never found except near mountains which teem with gold and precious stones : these they dig up, and take an extraordinary pleasure in gazing at and playing with them, defending them most savagely against others. In Asiatic Scythia, a rich but uninhabitable land, and accessible only to the Arimaspians, these savages, who have a single eye in their foreheads, arm themselves against the gryphons, and go and carry off the gems. Jerome, in his letter to the monk Rusticus, speaks of the way gold and gems are guarded by the gryphons.... While I was standing near this precious sarcophagus and wondering who it was who had beaten the gryphons and carried off this huge stone, and for whom it was carved into so priceless a tomb, it occurred to me that perhaps in the days of the giants, who used to lay low the pride of centaurs and gryphons, it was brought for the sepulchre of Venus, whom nearly all the gods venerated, and here abandoned. For I cannot suppose that any king would have had a tomb of so great value, for jasper is more precious than gold, in which the FELIX FABER. 43 dying Alexander ordered his remains to be placed. "WTiile I was standing and thinking certain canons were walking up and down the nave of the church, waiting for the last stroke of the vesper belL I approached them and begged them to tell me for what god or goddess or king or lord this incomparable tomb was designed. The canons entered the chapel with me and told me a long and very pleasant story about this tomb, and although I never read this story in any book, or heard of it elsewhere, still I believed it and set it down in my Evagatorium. And if the fact is not as I have written it down, at any rate this is what I heard, and as I was blameless in hearing it so was I blameless in writing it down : so it too may be read without blame, and piously believed without injury to the faith. When Venus, queen and goddess of the Cypriots, threw aside all modesty and entertained a number (jf lovers, she took among them to her adulterous arms the god Mars. He grew jealous, and yoking his steeds to his chariot, with his sister Bellona to guide them he went to the hyperborean mountains. There he routed or captured the gryphons, and tore a huge stone from the hill of jasper. Bellona too carried off a crystal shield. These things they put in the chariot, and compelled the Arimaspi or Cyclopes to draw them. And when they reached the isle of Venus they set the stone for her bed, to temper and subdue her unbridled appetite. But when death cut off Venus they could not grave her image nor make her statue, hence in her temple, in the place of her effigy, they set this rude unpolished block of jasper. So Virgil writes that the image of Venus bore no human Hkeness. However in the days of our Lord Jesus Christ among other gentiles who desired to see Jesus (S. John xii. i) there were many Cypriot merchants, such as often went to Syria on account of the nearness of the two countries. Now when these Cypriots heard the hori preaching and saw Him doing miracles they believed, and heartily abhorring the ingratitude of the Jews they begged Him that He would deign to sail with them to Cyprus, and shower His blessings on that people. To whoTii He replied as He had replied to Abgarus, king of Edessa, who begged Him by letter to come thither, that first of all He must suffer the cross and die, and on the third day rise again, and then He would send to them His disciples. They returned then to Cyprus and told the people what they had seen and heard, and fearing the envy of the Jews and his threatened execution, lest His crucified Body should be thrown out by the Jews as those of other condennied criminals they agreed to send certain persons to Jerusalem to bear away the Body of Jesus, and bring it in a vessel to Cyprus. They entered the temple of Venus and overthrew the jasper stone which was her symbol, and shaped thereof a tomb for the Lord Jesus. But when our Lord was dead and honourably buried the Cypriots were appeased, and preserved this tomb even to to-day. Nor would they sell it to anyone, nor suffer any man to be buried therein because it had been dedicated to Christ our Lord. And that was perhaps the reason why the image of Venus was of stone, precious indeed but unsmoothed and unshaped; for it would have been unmeet that the likeness and efttgy of Venus should be the sepulchre of Christ. But Gio. Boccaccio (De Gen. Deonim III 23) did not discover it. lu this the gentile Cypriots are no less to be commended than the Jews, Joseph and Nicodemus, who buried Christ, and we may well apply to their praise the words of 2 Samuel ii. 5, "lilessed be ye Cypriots of the Lord, that ye have showed this kindness to your Lord, and have buried Him. And now the Lord show kindness and h-uth unto you: and I also will requite you with kindness because ye have done this thing. So much then for this story. , , , , • ^t,- A large archiepiscopal palace is attached to this cathedral church. Moreover m this city is a fair convent of our Order. It is the last house of the Preachers towards the East, and is situated in the royal castle over a torrent; for a certain king of Cyprus bore such an affection 6—2 44 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. for the brothers that he would have them nowhere but in his castle. This building is guarded by very stout and high walls : a stone bridge built archwise gives access to both the castle and the convent, and the torrent is led round the outer circuit of the walls. But when the kingdom was in divers manners stricken and laid waste, as we have said before, the interior of the castle was thrown down and burnt, yet through the exertions of the monks the convent remained intact, and the wall surrounding it, with the bridge, survived that great fire and is still standing. But of the habitable portion of the castle nothing remained except the lofty walls which the flames could not hurt. So it is that our convent stands to-day inclosed by those walls, and no one is allowed to build anything therein, but the monks own the whole site of the castle. The conventual church is right royally adorned, and in it is the burial place of the kings of Cyprus. It has two cloisters with marble pillars throughout their circuit, and all the offices of the monks are very good and convenient. Above are well- lighted dormitories, paved with marble. One day when I was strolling alone through the dormitory I found a cell open, and seeing it empty and uninhabited I went in to look at it. There was a recess in the wall, with a wooden door without a lock but closed by a small iron bolt. Out of curiosity I went up to the cupboard, drew the bolt and opened it. Immediately there burst upon me an infinite swarm of angry bees, flying round me and buzzing, the cell was full of them. I escaped with great difficulty from the cell, but they followed me all through the dormitory. There was a little hole in the wall by which they entered from the garden into the cupboard, and there they swarmed : for the convent has beautiful gardens all round it, and is altogether a delightful place. What kind of monks they are, how many, how zealous in the monastic life, how learned and diligent in the performance of divine service, how hospitable and charitable, I little know, and what I do know I should blush to write. But small wonder is it if there is little religion in these remote places, which are never visited by the superiors of the Order, where the monks are not corrected for their excesses, and are led astray by the evil example of the Grreek priests. Whereas all should be different. For they are sent as mendicants to those countries to edify the Greeks by their words and works, and bring them into the obedience of the Roman Church. All the brethren of this convent are bearded like the Greeks, and they have a secular agent who gives every month to each monk eight marcelli, with which each buys what pleases him ; the convent has no other funds. The Friars Minor have a fair convent in this city. And the brethren of the Hermits of S. Augustine have a convent in the sugar cane gardens, and in their church on the left hand is a stately and gilded tomb, in which lies the body of a certain German noble called John Montfort, whom the Cypriots hold to be a saint. And pilgrims visit his shrine and ask his prayers. The body lies whole, but the flesh, muscles and skin are shrivelled : in one arm you see the bone stripped of flesh and skin as though a bit had been torn away by the teeth. It happened, they say, thus. There was a certain noble lady of Germany, a kinswoman of the said John of Montfort, who after visiting the holy places at Jerusalem sailed to Cyprus, and came to Nicosia to see the tomb of her friend, the blessed John. They opened the tomb for her, and removed the grating, and she lay down on his body putting her mouth to his shoulder as though she would kiss it long and fervently, but secretly she fixed her teeth in the flesh of the corpse and bit it, tearing away a piece which she hid in her bosom, desiring to carry it to her country as a relic. Wonderful to relate ! when she had taken ship and was far out at sea they lost each favouring breeze, and while other vessels sailed gaily on her ship made no way at all. But the sailors saw in this something miraculous, and began to .search the cabins, bags, wallets and chests of each passenger, as is their wont when any FELIX FABER. 45 unwonted obstacle occurs. But when they found the morsel wrapped in a little cloth, and heard the truth as confessed by the lady, they returned to the port which they had left, and when they had replaced the morsel sailed away with a favouring wind. In this city the Queen has her palace, and all things are cheap. The second bishopric is that of Famagusta, which was once famous, and the capital of the whole kingdom, and the residence of its kings. This city is set on the seashore, and has a port most convenient for fleets. Our brethren have a convent there, but it is almost a wreck, for ruin threatens the city and all that is in it. It is said that no one can stay there on account of the corruption of the air. In these two cities were centred all the glory and the imported riches of Cyprus : here too was a crowd of all nations and tongues. But day by day all these things are vanishing. Near Famagusta are the ruins of a very ancient city which was called Salamina, said to have been built by one Teucer. When this Tencer went with his brother to the Trojan war, and after the war was ended returned to their country without him, he was repulsed, and sailing for Cyprus built Salamina and there ended his days. His father Telamon had been the first to scale the walls of Troy : he married the daughter of a noble Trojan who bore him Ajax and Teucer. From that Teucer there are persons who think the people of the Teucri, or Turks, take their origin. Hence they now call themselves Turks, as sprung from Teucer (vol. III. 230 — 236). This Salamina then in Cyprus, the ancient city of Teucer, besides foisting on us the hateful and abominable Turks, gave us S. Barnabas the Apostle, who there suffered martyr- dom, and the holy and lovable Catharina, who is said to have been born there, and a chapel erected on the place of her birth is still shown to travellers. For Salamina was the capital of Costa's kingdom. Some of the histories call this city Constantia of Cyprus, which is its newer name, as saith Jerome in his Life and Death of S. Paula. But some who read the history of S. Catharina, when they see she was bom in Constantia, think that Constantia to be the Gernum city situated on the lake, whether natural or fed by a river, so called. There too is shown the place of her birth, but not the true one. Moreover in Salamina was a holy man, that Bishop Epiphanius of whom S. Jerome makes frequent and flattering mention, because they were comrades in the defeat of the heresy of Origen, as we learn from the Epistle of Jerome to Pammachius against John, Bishop of Jerusalem. Hence also we learn that the see of Famagusta was anciently at Salamina, and later translated to Famagusta. The third see is I'aphus, the oldest of all the cities of Cyprus, and made illustrious not only by the songs of poets, but by the deeds of apostles. For SS. Paul and Barnabas preached there. There too Hilarius the abbot lived, and S. Manna, whom the Greeks mvoke against the pestilence, and Hnd him a true intercessor. How vast this city was, and how stately the churches which stood there, the extent of the ruins and the noble columns of marble which lie prostrate prove. It is now desolate, no longer a city, but a miserable village built over the ruins; on this account the harbour too is abandoned, and ships only enter it when forced to do so, as was our fate. As the city was laid low by an earthquake so it hes still, and no king nor bishop gives a hand to raise it up again. Tho fourth see is in Nimona, on the seashore, where I stayed some days waiting tor the vessels Nimona is a ruined city, with a good harbour, facing Tyre and Sidon, and whence with a favourable wind one can sail in a day and a night to ports which are the best m the world for business, to Armenia, Cilicia, Laodicaea, Seleucia, Antioch Syria, Palaestma Alexandria of Egypt, Beirut, Tripoli, Ptolemais, Caesarea, Tyre, Sidon Joppa, Ascalon and others. Nimona, as its rums show, was a great city, to which when baladm took Jerusalem 46 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. the Templars, the knights of S. John and of the Teutonic Order migrated. They took possession of it, and fortified it with walls and towers, especially the port, near which they built a very strong castle, facing the sea on one side. Within the town they built Latin churches and convents of which the ruins are still visible, but only one wretched church remains standing, without bells. Its ornaments are of the poorest kind, and they call to prayer with bits of wood. A few Latin clergy still live there, but (as we shall show) their habits are not edifying. Ruin in many forms has stricken the city, the hatred of the Saracens towards the knights of the Temple, of S. John, and of the Teutonic Order, earthquakes, and Hoods rushing down from the mountain behind. On its slopes are made excellent wines, and the vines are said to be so large that a man cannot clasp his arms round their stems. Carobs too grow there in great number. Above Nimona is a certain wooded spot so full of serpents and noxious animals that no one can live there. Nevertheless in the middle of the wood some ancient fathers built a monastery, so that being surrounded with serpents they might be less exposed to the visits of worldlings, which are known to disturb devout monks. But lest the serpents should molest the inmates of the convent they maintain a number of cats, who naturally make a prey of snakes, mice, dormice and rats, and do not allow such to approach the walls : and daily war is waged between the cats and the snakes to drive the latter from the walls. At night they remain within, and roam about the offices lest any reptile be hidden there, but during the day they hunt in the wood, and when their dinner hour comes the monk on duty rings a bell, at the sound of which they all run to the place where they are fed. For the mouse catcher has good hearing and better smell, but best of all is his sight, which can pierce the shades of night, hence he is called cat : for cattus means cunning, and the ancients thought that cats were akin to the Genii or Lares, saying that Genii though unseen by men could not remain invisible to cats. They tell me that Brutus was doing something one night in the house mth a light, and saw a black figure. He asked what it was. " I am thy evil genius," it answered, and vanished. For the ancients laid down that every man had always at his side a good and an evil genius, just as Christian truth tells us that with every man are coupled two angels, one good, the other bad. The Lares were said to be the sons of Mercury and the nymph Lar. They lived in the homes of men, and guarded them, their seat being in the common hall of the house, near the fire, and there men paid them due reverence, a custom not wholly fallen into disuse. And because cats have flashing eyes, and like to lie on the ashes near the fire they said they were of kin to the Genii, Lares, Penates. There are many other notable things in Cyprus, such as the mountain of the Holy Cross, of which I have already spoken. So much then for the description of Cyprus. The condition of the island, its organization and government so far as regards temporal matters, its four dioceses, have been set forth at sufficient length in the preceding pages. As to the bishops and clergy both secular and regular I can only speak with bitterness of spirit, and were I moved to speak I must lift up my voice to heaven. It were supremely necessary for the dignity of the Catholic faith that to countries like Cyprus, the outworks and bounds of Christianity, were sent bishops of ripe age and strong character, who should live in their sees, and by their teaching and example should bring not only their own flocks but Greeks, Armenians, and other Eastern heretics and schismatics to love the Roman Church, and provoke the Saracens and Turks to admire their striking virtues. For Cyprus is encompassed on all sides by these monstrous races, which send men daily into all parts of the island for business. So that experience is more necessary here than holiness at Rome : and excess is more pardonable there than an evil example here. FELIX FABER. 47 We know that in the early Church the chief apostles were sent to the countries of the gentiles, as Peter and John were sent from Jerusalem to Samaria (Acts vii.). But now who are the men who are sent to be bishops in these remote places ? Let the senders look to it ! Brothers of the Mendicant Orders, who detest the poverty they have embraced, who pay no heed to chastity, and find obedience a burden, who loathe the observance of their Rule, and are ashamed to wear the monkish habit — these are the men who fawn and pray and solicit the interest of princes and nobles, profFering anon infamous and simoniacal gifts, alms which they have collected with pious but lying pretexts from Christ's faithful flock, to be appointed bishops in those parts. I met once a bishop of Paphus of this kind. We were detained for three days in the port of the Salines, and heard that two bishops were to come and travel with us. And two bishops did arrive with a mounted suite and much pomp, and boarded our galley, and made themselves very disagreeable to us pilgrims, and narrowed our already narrow room. One of them was a monk of some Mendicant Order, whom I observed more closely than the other gentleman. He was young, beardless, with a womanish face and thoroughly effeminate manners : he wore his proper habit, but varied in colour and quality. For he had made it of precious camlet, with a train behind like a woman, and wore on his fingers many i-ings set with gems and round his neck a golden chain : he was always quarrelling with his attendants, for he looked down on everybody, but especially the pilgrims whom he would not allow to sit down with him. One of us, a priest and chaplain to a pilgrim knight, once begged hini to move a little from his seat, to make room for the knight. The bishop looked down contemptuously on the priest, but the latter faced him, and defended against the prelate his seat and berth, for which he had paid a large sum. To whom the bishop in the hearing of all, said, "And how do you dare, you ass, to contend with me ? Don't you know who I am ? " The chaplain replied, " I am not an ass, but a priest : I do not despise a priest, or make light of a bishop, but I see before me a proud monk and irreligious brother, with whom I shall contend for my rights to the bitter end." Whereupon the bishop made nfigo at him, as Italians do with their thumb when they wish to insult anyone. When the knight saw this he rose up against the bishop and other young knights with him with clamour and complaint, and the bishop wisely fied aloft to the captain's cabin, and came down no more to the pilgrims' quarters. I spoke above of a certain clerk, who was Greek and Latin at the same time, and have noted many other things of the same kind, so that I wonder that the name of Christ has not been uprooted from Cyprus, lying as it does among Turks and Saracens. November 8. We remained in the harbour of Paphus up to the hour of vespers, when we lifted our anchor and left the port ; but the wind was contrary and we beat about all that night on the coast. ...On the night of Sunday, November 9, we lost sight of the island (vol. III. 239—244). 48 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. F. SURIANO. Fra Francesco Suriano, of a patrician family of Venice, left a work of which there exist two manuscripts in the Communal Library of Perugia (one of them in the autograph of the author, corrected and enlarged by him in 1514) and a single printed copy, preserved in the Civic Library of Lucca, published by F. Bindoni at Venice in 1526 under the title Trattato di Terra Santa. Suriano, born 1450, had made no less than sixteen journeys to the Eastern shores of the Mediterranean before, in 1475, he assumed the Franciscan habit. He visited Cyprus in August, 1484, on his way from Jaffa to Venice, and was still alive in 1529. He mentions in a note on p. 219 an earthquake which in 1480 nearly destroyed the royal city of Levcossia or Nicossia, " a town twice as large as Perugia," throwing to the ground a large number of palaces, houses and churches, particularly the archiepiscopal church of S. Sophia. I translate from the Italian text edited by P. Girolamo Golubovich, O.M., 8vo, Milan, 1900 (pp. 241—243). We left Jerusalem, or rather Zaplio, on the tenth of August, 1484, with the galley of Messer Augustin Contarino, and sailing for six days together over the open sea we arrived at the Salines of Cyprus. To this place came S. Paul with Barnabas from Seleutia. These Salines, as one reads in the chronicles of the island, were thus miraculously made. The whole plain was planted with vines, and as S. Lazarus passed by he asked from those who kept the vineyards a few grapes for the love of Grod. The alms was refused him, and he asked what there was in a basket which hung near. They told him it was salt, but it w^as full of grapes. Then he laid a curse on them and said, " May all these vineyards turn to salt." And so it befell, for from that hour the vines dried up, and every year the water (is turned to salt). These Salines are almost miraculous because the rain that falls collects without any art of man in a space a mile in circuit (and from under the earth some veins of sea water burst up, and mix with the fresh water which congeals, and becomes most perfect salt, white as snow, hard as stone, four fingers thick, and sweet as violets. And such a quantity is formed that were it all collected it would furnish salt in abundance for the whole of Italy. To keep ever alive the memory of the event a church was built in honour of S. Lazarus, in which I celebrated in token of my devotion. Here we stayed two days, and left it sailing always close to the shore, and the following day reached Limisso, a city entirely destroyed and overthrown by wars and earthquakes. Leaving this we came to C. Gavata, eighteen miles away: we call it the Cape of Cats. And here I saw a great and strange wonder. Of the miracle of the cats in Cyprus. I heard a marvellous thing. From the said city of Lymisso up to this cape the soil produces so many snakes that men cannot till it, or walk without hurt thereon. And were it not for the remedy which God has set there, in a short time these would multiply so fast that the island would be depopulated. At this place there is a Greek monastery which rears an infinite number of cats, which wage unceasing war with these snakes. It is wonderful to see them, for nearly all are maimed by the snakes : one has lost a nose, another an ear ; the skin of one is torn, another is lame: one is blind of one eye, another of both. And it is a strange thing that at the hour for their food at the sound of a bell all those that are scattered in the fields collect in the said monastery. And when they have eaten enough, at the sound of the bell they all leave together and go to fight the snakes. On this account the monastery has large revenues. From this Cape Gavata we sailed up to Paphos, in which city S. Paul by his F. SURIANO. 49 preaching converted the Proconsul. It is entirely ruinous, except one or two towers on the harbour. Hence sprang Venus, the goddess of lust. And now that we are presently leaving the island I ought not to pass it without notice but tell you of its condition. Of the condition of the islmid of Cyprus. This island of Cyprus has a circuit of 700 miles: it is a kingdom, and has six cities, Nichosia and Famagosta are well inhabited, Salamina, Lymiso and Bapho are in ruins. It has one strong fortress called Cerines, of old it had 8000 hamlets or villages, now only 800, and these in bad condition except la Piscopia and Larnacha. The island produces meat in plenty so that one may get twelve or fourteen sheep for a ducat. It is poor meat and unAvholesome. The air is very bad, hence you never see a creature with a natural colour in his face, it is all art. Almost every year it is smitten with locusts, and the result is great barrenness and death. When the locusts do not come they harvest grain enough for four years. It produces plenty of sugar and good cott(Mi, plenty of cheese, ladanum, honey, wool, the finest camlets known, and samite. The inhabitants are few and lazy. In the summer season on account of the sun's great heat they work and travel by night. By day they lie idle in huts of reeds open at the ends. In the winter they dress in cloth, but in the summer in skins of polecats, foxes and sheep. If one exposes oneself to the cool air one falls at once into long and dangerous sickness. The horses are born amblers. The women are lewd. The country and climate of themselves incline to fleshly lust, and nearly every one lives in concubinage. In the days of king Jacques the women went about attired in a seductive manner like nymphs. Now they go decently dressed. To this island belonged S. Barnabas the Apostle, S. Catherine, virgin and martyr, daughter of king Costa, S. Epiphanios, a most eloquent man: Philanio, a most holy man and a martyr, was bishop of the island. And in it died S. Hylarion and S. John Monfore (pp. 241—243). c. 7 50 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. ZAMBERTI. A quaint sonnet in the Venetian dialect contains probably the first printed account of Cyprus. It appears in the very rare book entitled Isolario, by Bartolommeo Zamberti (da' Sonetti), a small quarto, without note of place or date, but printed probably at Venice about 1485. The last sonnet in the book is on Cyprus, the concluding leaf being a cui'ious outline map, without any names of places, of the island. The verses, copied verbatim et literatim, and a translation, are printed below. S. PER LINSULA DE CIPRO Questa e quela achamantida die piaque cotanto a venus delichata e molle amathussa e machara pria dir se sole adeso cipro e qui come iaque Vedila a quela parte oue il sol naque posta ala sirya e da quela chel tolle sta verso cliaria col suo piano e colle piu verso coro onde la hyenas il taque Questa e simele a crete de grandeza e per i venti quasi un stile tene e gia de piu dun regno fu in alteza qui cuchari qui sale a sai qui bene Qui cerere dal trito fa diuicia qui da se alba un vino tinto fato qui le done de se non fa auaricia Qui paplio e salamina furno in stato qui se ha de amaso e coloe notitia qui bufauento mira dogni lato Lydinia chithio carpacio e gostanza Famagosta nicosia regal stanza Sonnet on the Island op Cyprus. This is that Acamantis which charmed so much delicate and tender Venus. Anciently it was called Amathusia and Macaria, now Cyprus. It lies thus — see! on the side where the sun rises it is set over against Syria, and on that where it sets towards Caria; with its plains and hills sloping more towards the north-west, so that the winter blasts are hushed. It is like Crete in size, and lies open to almost the same winds. Of old it held more than one kingdom. Here are sugar, much salt, and wealth, for Ceres showers here store of grain. Here a wine black when made grows light of itself. Here the women are not chary of their favours. Here Paphos and Salamis were renowned: and we hear of Tamassus and Soloi. Here Bulfavento looks to every side. Lydinia, Citium, Carpas and Constantia, Famagusta, and Nicosia, seat of kings. ZAMBERTI. N. LE HUEN. 51 N. LE HUEN. Concerning Nicole Huen, a Carmelite of Pont Audeiner, and his work I can learn notliing but what may be gleaned from (1) the imprint on his last page (the book has no title) wliich runs thus: " Des sainctes peregrinations et des avirons et des lieux prochains. Du mont de synay et la glorieuse Iratlierine : cost ouvraije et petit livre contenant du tout la description ainsi que dieu a voulu le donner a congnoistre. Imprime a Lyon par honnestes hommes Michalet topic de pyrmont : et Jacques heremberch daleraaigne demourant audit lyoii. Lan de nostre seigneur iiiille cccc quatrevigtz et huictz et le XXVIII de Novembre." And (2) a note inserted in the Grenville copy, British Museum, G. 7203 : " Breydenbach, traduit par N. Huen, fol. Lyon, 1488. La Croix du Maine ii. p. 190, together with Du Verdier in. 143 and Pinelo, Bib. Geog. p. 1463, or Recharderie rs'. 402, have all considered N. Huen as an original traveller, but Panzer i. .'iSS, together with La Valliere in. 30, and Crevenna iv. 20 very truly concur in describing Huen as giving only a translation of Breydenbach (Bernhard von Breitenbach, Pereyrindfio, fol. Mainz, 1486), though not a literal one. This edition is most extremely rare, and sold at the Roxburgh sale, No. 72.'j9, for £84. It is the first French book witli copper-plates." Cyprus is an island, a kingdom, a country, thus nanie(l from a cliief city so named, which was formerly called Paphon, and is dedicated to Venus. In time past it had great renown for its metal, and abounded in bronze, the use of which was there first discovered. A land producing many wines, surrounded entirely by the sea: but in the interior it has had noble cities, great and rich, situated in all directions. The chief and capital is called Nicossia, in this there are fine churclies. The cathedral is magnificent: there are parish churches vdth mendicant friars. Our Carmelite house is near the king's palace, and was founded by the lords of France, for you can see a proof in the church, by the arms of the king of Jerusalem, of the king of France, of the duki>. of Normandy. Tliey are also inside the great episcopal church. Near our convent rests the body of S. Jean de Mountfort quite entire: it is the most beautiful corpse which was ever seen on the earth. In devotion and with eagerness the people go there to seek for health. Near there, quite seven miles away, is the body of S. Memer, from which Hows an ) was king there, and it was called Famacosti. Limesson is another city where there were fine churches. The bishop still lives there with two canons. Besides there is Salines, which was called Piscopia, or rather Cyprus, from which the island took its name, and now there is no house except the church of S. Ladze, ill (iquipped, and a single begude. The cause of this dc^struction arose from the sister of the knig of England who was going for devotion's .sake to Jerusalem. The king of Cyprus took her and dishonoured her, which tiling wrought ill for him and all the country which came to help her and destroyed everything with fire and sword. The soil is fertile, and rich in good things, fine plains, mountains and forests which hold wild animals, and great plenty, so that you may have twelve sheep for a ducat It is 175 miles in length and 125 miles broad : 300 miles distant from Rhodes. It is to-day uu.Um- the Venetians, and they are in danger of losing it in no long time, for the soldiers 7—2 52 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. or gendarmes they have there are not paid, and have not wherewithal to live, except meanly and very ill at their ease. No man can leave it without permission, wherefore at times many of the dwellers in the land go to give themselves up to the Turks, so as to escape from the place and its government. Wednesday, August 29, was the feast of S. John Baptist in the church of Cyprus. We landed at Salines. There is a church founded by S. Lazarus, the seat of a bishop. There are no other dwellings than a house for a begute. There we found bread and wine, grapes and pomegranates. We slept inside the church like good sheep. Thursday, August 30, we stayed there to hear the pilgrims' mass. Several hired horses to go to Nicossia where the Queen of Cyprus holds her court. All our company agreed to hire donkeys to follow the rest, and took a guide who led us all the night through to Nycossia. Friday morning we reached Nychossia at sunrise. Thence we went to the great church called S. Meme or Mamar whose body is outside the city: it drips oil. This church is very beautiful, and nobly adorned in the French fashion, for the lords of France caused it to be built. In this church is the tomb of Grodeffray de Billon, all of jasper and of a single piece, except the cover; although it was not in this place that he was buried, but in Jerusalem, as I have told you. Mass was heard, then we went to drink in a tavern, then each of us slept three hours. Afterwards we made the circuit of the city, and to the churches of the mendicant friars. There are three convents with large buildings, Carmelites, Jacopins and Franciscans. In this city they cut the stones called Balfa diamonds. At night we returned to the Salines where was our ship. This city was formerly a very important one. There are fine walls of long circuit, and within them large buildings, but all in ruins. Saturday, September 1, 1487. The wines of Cyprus are good and strong, but they have a savour of pitch. Without this they would not keep, for the heat is so fierce, and the air so wonderfully dangerous, that by day one would not dare go about the fields or streets except in the morning and evening. To prove this, when we landed in Cyprus there was not a sick man of our company in all the ship, and we remained there nine days, thanks be to Jesus, without any ill. But when we withdrew to the vessel, there were seven sick, all pilgrims. Let all future pilgrims be warned that it is the worst port of all the voyage. Sunday, our company went to a village a mile from the port, and lodged with a Greek priest, and there we stayed until we left to put to sea. The Salines are like a lake, a league in length and breadth, and there is just a foot of water above the mud, and there it congeals like ice by reason of the heat of the sun, and is taken up in pieces like broken ice. And when one piece is taken out the rest congeals, which is a thing to wonder at... Friday, September 7, we left Salines. ... Saturday, the feast of the Nativity of our Lady, it was calm, and we stayed at Lymesson to get victuals, biscuit, sheep and some wine. ^ One gets there thirty sheep for a ducat. Sunday, September 9, we landed to hear mass, and stayed till after dinner.... Monday, we left Lymesson.... Thursday. In four days we had sailed but thirty miles. We anchored as near as we could to Balfa, and some went on shore to get victuals. (Quire c. ccc verso. Quire e recto.) N. LE HUEN. FRA. NOE. 53 FRA. NOE. A little book of 192 pages, measuring 6 inches by 4^, with rude woodcuts, bears the imprint of G. A. Remondini, Bassano, without date. The title runs Viagio da Venetia al S. Sepolcro, et al Monte Sinai.... Cnmponto dal R. P. Noe (Bianchi) delV ordine di S. Francesco. The British Museum possesses editions of loOO, ir,19, 1546, 1555, 1563, 1587, 1640, 1647, 1680, and 1728; and others are known of Venice, 1566, 1614, liologna, 1690, and Bassano, 1770. The phrasing is here and there so curt and disjointed as to be scarcely intelligible. P. 25. We left Rhodes... and readied Cyprus. We passed by several cities, one of which was called Haffo. This was once large and strong, as its ruins testify. It is now all destroyed. And below is a church which once belonged to the Friars Minor, and a large prison with seven different cells, in which S. Paul was for some time confined, and S. Barnabas the Apostle. In this place under another church runs a wonder-working spring, which is drunk as a sovereign remedy for fever. In this place are seven little rooms where it is said the .seven sleepers slept, but not those who slept in the Coelic hill. From this city we came to another, also in ruins, and leaving this we came to Limisso, which a sultan rased to the foundati(ms. Here wherever you dig you find sweet waters.... Cj'prus is 300 miles from Rhodes, lOo miles long and broad. Mutton is very cheap, but not very good. Sometimes you can get nine sheep for a ducat. P. 178. How we left Egypt. ..and arrived in no long time at the island of Cyprus, at the city of Famagosta, a seaport. I left that city and went by land to the place where king Costa once lived, who was father to the holy virgin Catherine. The place is called Salamina, and the city Constantia, but the city is quite destroyed, yet one may see the walls of the castle in which king Costa lived. Where S. Catherine was born is a little church outside the city in the hands of the Creeks. There is a little chapel to mark the spot where S. Catherine was beheaded, and the Apostle Barnabas. And there are many indulgences : and in the same city is the body of S. Epiphanius, which is shown entire and uncorrupt. . . . We left Beffania, and passed the island of Beffania, and in a few days fovmd ourselves at Nicosia, where the king of Cyprus lives, and we went to get his leave, for no one can quit his kingdom without leave, so that one must get his seal, and so we went to the port of Famagosta [whence we sailed for Venice]. 54 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. BAUMGAKTEN. Martin von Baunigarten in Braitenbach was born 1473 at Kufstein on the Inn, where he died in 1535, the third of the twelve children of John von Baumgarten, a noble and wealthy Tyrolese. He made the usual pilgi'image to the Holy Land and Moant Sinai, and on his return visited Cyprus, remaining in the island fi'om February 8 to March 28, 1508. His Travels were published in Latin, 4to, Niirnberg, 1594, and in English, in Churchill's collection, fol. London, 1704, and 8vo, 1752. I transcribe from the first English edition, vol. i. pp. 489 — 491. On the eighth of February, about the third hour of the day, we arrived at Cyprus, and got into harbour at Salina ; here we stayed many days for certain reasons. This city was of old called Salamis, or Salamina, on this occasion. Salamina is a certain island in the Eubasan Sea, over against Athens, having in it a city of the same name, in which reigned Telamon, the father of Ajax and Teucer. But when Teucer returned from the Trojan war, and had not revenged his brother A j ax's death, being exiled by his father, he went to Cyprus, and called this city there after the name of his native country. In this city it was that Paul and Barnabas preached. And there too it was that Barnabas suffered martyrdom. There is near it a lake of excellent salt, which being coagulated by the heat of the sun only proves the best salt of any, and is exported in great quantities into Syria, Greece, Italy, and other countries, yielding great profit to the state of Venice. Near the harbour of Salamina is a church, in one end whereof the Greeks, and in the other the Latins perform their divine worship. Not far from this place, by the sea, at the foot of a hill are to be seen the ruins of an amphitheatre ; adjoining to it is a cave laid with pyramidal stones, and about it many huge stones and pieces of antiquity, and pillars of white marble, but the inscriptions are totally defaced. Nymosia or Nicosia, a city of Cyprus. Its episcopal see. A storm at sea. A pirate at Rhodes. Piscopia rased. Paphus, its founder. The third day of March, because our ship was to be loaded with corn in another part of the island, leaving all our things on board, we travelled by land both for our recreation and to have the better view of the island. The first place we came to the next day was Lymosin, of old Nymosia, and lodged in the bishop's house, for this is one of the four episcopal sees that are in Cyprus. The first is in Leucosia, now called Nicosia. The second at Famagusta. The third in Paphus, which episcopal sees are each of them double, so that in every one of them there's both a Greek and Latin bishop. The same day about noon our ship arrived, so we made haste to get some provisions, which we carried with us and went on board. Sailing from thence immediately, before we had got a mile off, the wind rose and blew so hard that we were forced to anchor under a promontory ; and there did we for three days together without intermission dance and caper, but not very merrily, having for music the loud noise of the wands, the rattling of the storm, and the roaring of the sea. While we were thus circumstanced, there came up with us a pirate ship belonging to Rhodes, who asking us whence we came, and what we had on board? when they found that all belonged to Christians they took away from us some oars they wanted and left us. > BAUMGARTEN. 55 On the eighth day about noon, the storm Ijeing over, we set sail, and launching out into the main sea, we sailed by Colossus, a village of Cyprus, remarkable for its great plenty of sugar. We sailed by Piscopia too, a city which one of the kings of England once rased to the ground, in revenge of his sister's having been debauched, having left her there as he was going to Jerusalem. On the tenth day we came to Paphus. This is a noble city, formerly the metropolis of Cyprus, and the palace of Venus ; now a very desolate and ruinous place, as most of the cities of Cyprus are, occasioned by the frequent earthquakes that happen there, yet by the very ruins it appears what once it was. In Paphus the air is not very wholesome, nor indeed in all Cyprus, though it abounds with marjoram, hyssop, and other wholesome herbs. This city was built by Paplius, Pygmalion's son by Eburnea, who called it after his own name, and consecrated it to Venus, to whom also they dedicate a very large temple ; to which, as some will have it, when Helen arrived from Grreece, being stolen by Paris, she repaired, and gave occasion to the Trojan war. Others will have this to be done in Cythera. Our stay at Condco, a village. Presents made to us there. Cyprus described ; its situation, fertility, cities, inhabitants. Their grievous oppression. On the eleventh day setting out from Paphus, we arrived in the dark night at the tovm of Corsico, which is situated in a very pleasant valley, having a prospect over the sea as far as Cilicia, which is now called Scandilora. Here we spent several days, till the ship was loaded with corn and silk. In the mean time we had presents offered to us of almonds, peas, and other fruits of the .same year's growth, which afforded us no less subject of admiration than of pleasure and deliciousness, to consider the extreme coldness of the weather in our country at that very season. Cyprus, a noble island situated in the Carpathian Sea, in the middle of the greatest bay of Asia, lying from E. to W. in a right line between Cilicia and Syria, the most considerable and famoiis island in the world, anciently abounding with riches, too much addicted to luxury, and ior tliat reason consecrated to Venus, is very large, and formerly had the wealth and title of a kingdom. This ishnid is called Cethim in the Holy Scnpture : is very fruitful of corn, abounding with silkworms, silks, oil, sugar and wine. Here are very beautiful lulls, most pleasant and delightful valleys, always resounding witli tlie melodious singing of birds. Hen; are warm suns, shady groves, dewy herbs, green grass, and soft downy meadows to he down and rest upon. Vet notwithstanding all this fruitfulness and pleasantness, neither its cities nor villages are nnicli frequented, but as if it was barren and a desert place it is inhabited oidy by a few people that live in cottages. It has no cities but Nicosia and Famagusta ; tlie former of which is famous for its largeness, and for the ruling power of the Governor residing there ; the latter is remarkable for its harbour and fortihcations. Besides all the inhabitants of (Cyprus are slaves to the Venetians, being obliged to pay to the state a third part of all their increase or income, whether the product of their ground, or corn, wme, oil, or of their cattle, or any other thing. Besides every man of them is bound to work for the state two days of the week wherever they shall please to appoint him : and if any shall fail by reason of some other business of their own, or for indisposition of body, then they are made to pay a fine for as many days as they are absent from their work. And winch is more, there is yearly some tax or other impo.sed on them, with which the poor comnion people are so Hayed and pillaged, that they hardly have wheremthal to keep soul and body together. We spent the rest of our time with a great deal of uneasiness in this island, being forced to tarry till the ship had taken in her lading of several sorts of merchandise. 56 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. LE SAIGE. Jacques le Saige was a silk merchant of Douai, who died there February 11, 1549. He started on the journey to Jerusalem March 19, 1518, and reached his home on Christmas Day of the same year. His autograph, scratched on a wall of the church of S. Francis at Famagusta, was found in 1901 by M. Camilla Enlart. He printed at Cambrai an account of his travels, with the quaint title Cfii sensuyvent les gistes repaistres et despens que rnoy Jacques le Saige marchant demourant a Douay ay fait de Douay a Rome...et autres lieux. Jusqiies au retour dudit Douay. There may have been three issues of this work between 1520 and 1523, but copies are of very great rarity, and Mons. H. K. Duthilloeul did well to publish at Douai in 4to, 1851, the edition from which I translate here pp. 92, 93, and 135 — 151, though the text needs revision, and the glossary is very meagre. " Messeurs prenes couraige de lire et vous ares du passe temps " (p. 2). The Flemish livre = 3 marcels = 20 gros or sols; the sou was worth 12 deniers. His journey, including 22 livres, 10 gros given as presents on the way, cost him 436 livres, 13 gros. To find the money he had to pledge some property in Hainault, for no one would give him cash for his stock of silk. July 21, 1518. The wind freshened, and towards supper-time we saw the beginning of the island of Cyprus somewhere near the city of Baf, where it is said is the temple of Venus. And about midnight we arrived off Limechon, where we anchored and did not land until the dawn of day. The landing at Limechon in Cyprus. They reckon the distance from Rhodes at 400 miles. July 22, the feast of the Magdalen. We left our vessel and landed at Limechon. It is now a village situated in the open country quite close to the sea, but there is no harbour. There is a castle which is pretty strong, and Limechon was once a walled town and large, but the English left it thus ruined to avenge themselves on the king of Cyprus, who debauched the sister of the king of England, who was returning from the holy voyage to Jerusalem. They sold us wine pretty cheap, but it tasted of pitch, for they put their wine in a large jar pitched within, and draw it thence. It is so hot by day in the summer that we dared not leave our houses. Towards evening we went to see cotton growing ; there was a large expanse of it. The twigs are as high as a turnip plant, the pods are as big as the head of a wild poppy ; and when the cotton is ripe the head opens, and one sees the cotton. Later we thought to return all of us to sleep in our ship, but our sailors were detained, and we were obliged to return to the houses, and we were even lucky to find such. July 23. When I awoke I had only to give my head a shake. I went to see a small church where I found a Greek priest who was robing himself to say mass : but as he put on each vestment he made it catch the fumes of a censer. I saw him say mass right through, but it was wonderful to see the ceremonies he performed. There is in Limechon another church where they sing after our rite, and there are five Latin canons. I made my way back to our lodging, and on the way saw capers growing. To write of the other riches of this land I shall wait until our return, for, if God will, we propose to see the chief cities of this realm. Well, just as we had returned to supper, they came to tell us we must get back to the vessel. Seven or eight of our company swore to me they had been in the castle mentioned above, and had been shown the brazen head which spoke to Valentine, the brother of Orson. I have written it down to record the fact ; I heard of it late, or would have gone to see it. But I had to return. And as soon as we were on board the anchors were raised and our sails spread. Now I had spent at Limechon 20 gros (pp. 92, 93). LE SAIGE. 57 The harbour of Famagosse in Cyprus. Sunday, August 28, the night of the beheading of S. John, we anchored our vessel in the harbour of Famagosse. We were greatly astonished to see so strong a city. For vessels cannot come nigh by reason of the rocks, and the walls too are terribly thick, and there are fosses lined with masonry along the town. Hence you may gather that one might attack it from without yet be unable to injure that city. It is small, and has the most beautiful houses possible, but they were destroyed what time the king of England took vengeance for his .sister whom the king of Cyprus had killed, thinking to debauch her, but the good lady, who was returning from the holy voyage, had fain rather suffer death. And as soon as her brother heard the news he vowed to God that he would avenge her, as he did. The walls of Famagosse are all freshly repaired, and there is a very grand boulevard. In brief it is an impregnable city if it had a sufficient garrison. But there are only 800 soldiers in the pay of the Venetians, for they have the whole land of Cyprus under them. By a custom of no long standing to keep at peace with the Turks they pay them a heavy tribute ; but the peasants pay it well. They are heavily taxed, and have no trade except with Venice. Along the sea on the other side there is fine level country, which supplies produce in plenty. It rains only from All iSaints to Candlemas (November 1 to February 2). The rest of the year it is so hot that men go into the fields by night only, and then there is a heavy dew. Two days after our arrival we went for our pleasure to the place where S. Catherine was born, and left at daybreak. The distance is only about two leagues, but we thought we should die of heat on the way back, and we had made no long stay there. For we found neither bread nor dinner, only a little chapel where are two altars ; hard by is a ruined church. It is the spot where the fair dame went t(^ learn our law : a quarter of a league away one sees the prison into which she was thrown when it was known she was a Christian. All this part, which used to be the city of Famagosse, is now callecl in our tongue Old Famagosse : one can still see the arches on which were the pipes which l)rouglit water from the mountains to the city. All the rest is destroyed and swept away. So we crawled back two leagues or so and stayed until the following Friday. We lived, my companions and I, in a church of S. Nicolas, and by reason of the heat remained therein all day until it was time for supper. This church is fine, and vaulted throughout. During the six days I was in Famagos.se I spent the sum of 48 gros. Friday, September 2, after supper my companions with whom I ate every day, that is to say Jehan du Bos, of Soignie, and three cliui-climen who had accompanied us to Venice, wished to leave on foot to go to a place called Salline, where there used to be a great city, now there is only a village. When they were debating about going on foot (the distance was quite eight French leagues), 1 tried to defeat their plan, alas ! this travelling on foot was the cause of their death. I begged them to take a mule each, and to come and take their pleasure and see the country, for in any case we had to wait until our vessel was loaded with salt, and they took fully fourteen days to fill up. I pleaded with them that the rest of the pilg'rims were taking each of us a mule to travel all night through to Nicossia, a great city, and that we should get good value for our money. They replied that they would spend more in the village. Alas, they had enough of it fifteen days later, for they were near their end, as you can lu-ar. At last I saw I was wasting my time, and went and engaged a mule, and agreed with the muleteer that he should come with me, for everyone else had left. And for the whole journey as far as Nicossia it cost me but twenty gros. And even when I had mounted my nmle 1 came back to our lodging to see if my companions had not changed their 8 58 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. ininds. They told me they were resolved to go right through on foot, and that they would rather buy drink with what it would cost them to take a mule. Alas ! they would have been very glad about midnight to have had one apiece, for they knew not where they were going, they had no guide, there were only four of them, and they lost their way. I commended them to Grod, and left Avith my muleteer as I said. We hurried on so fast that my guide was bathed in sweat, thinking to overtake the main body of my companions. But it was all for nothing, the two of us had to travel all night alone because I had tarried so long. We found the country pretty level, and passed by a large village, where there is a great castle : it is five miles from Famagosse, and called Sinore. We met, my muleteer and I, more than a hundred persons on the road, for in this season on account of the heat of the sun men go to their fields by night only, and even sheep and other animals go out to feed at night. I was often afraid, for many of those whom we met stopped to chat with my muleteer. But I rode on, and if I had heard any of them turn back with him I was determined to get off my mule and hide in some bush, for there are many such by the way side. However Grod be praised, no one asked of me anything. Grood order must be kept there. In two or three other villages we found the people sleeping in their courtyards to enjoy the cool of the night ; they had just a few branches over them. We rode on till we saw the day and reached Nicossia about half an hour after the sun rose. I was much rejoiced and paid anon the twenty gros. So on Saturday, September 2, I arrived in the city of Nicossia. It is very large, and I knew not where to address myself to find a lodging, for the townspeople understand neither French nor Flemish nor Latin. I found a priest and thought he would understand Latin. But he was no more good to me than if I had called to a dog ; he was a Greek. I began to feel tired, for I did not know what was the Greek for a lodging, and I had my wallets containing my shirts, and my two sheets which I had brought to get washed, and a couple of bottles, and I was all in a fuss, for my muleteer had left me at the gate. I went till I found a saddler, and asked for the inn. He showed me a house. I hurried in and found there the four buglers of our ship. You may be sure I was glad. I asked them where was the large party who came on by night : they told me they had breakfasted, and were gone to the great church to find a cool place and sleep their fill. Then I breakfasted very well, thanks be to God, and then went to rest in the great church called S. Sophia, which is a very beautiful little church. There is the finest possible beginning of a bell tower of well cut sandstone, and already there are five porches, three of which open a way under the said tower before one enters the church, and at the two ends of the transept there are two beautiful little doorways of fine stone, and the church is vaulted throughout. The singing is in Latin, after our rite. Many pilgrims have made their marks and set their names on the walls ; I saw the name of Jehan Potiez of Mons near one of the entrances. After I had been there a long while I went to a little Greek church close by ; it is dedicated to our Lady. It was a pleasure to be there, for there was one of the priests who was at least seventy years old and chanted so loudly that it was a wonder. After vespers said in Greek large loaves were brought, one of which was cut into large pieces, a piece was given to each of us, and then some good wine to drink. Then I returned to my lodging, and was told that our hostess was brought to bed while we were in the church. I should have liked well to be the godfather, but they told me they would wait a month to baptise the child. Then they brought us supper. The next morning, September 4, I heard talk of the body of a saint which was in a church of the Scalzi, and went there with several other pilgrims to hear mass. We found it a long walk, for the town, as I said, is very large. Near the convent is a great space of garden ground watered from a well. A horse turns a big wheel, and many earthen pots LE SAIGE. 59 are bound on this wheel which pour out a wonderful quantity of water, and there are many- small pipes in the garden by which the water is distributed. There is a great plenty of fruit- bearing trees, mostly pomegranates, and under the trees the ground is all full of gourds, melons, cucumbers, and other good things. AVere it not for these wells there would be no dainties in Cyprus, while there are so many that it is a wonder. After I had looked well over the place I came to the convent, which is small as well as the church. But it is very pleasing and well adorned. After we had heard mass we were shown the body, which is still entire, of a saint called Jehan de Montifort, which works many miracles and cures fevers : he was a gentleman, for he was of Brittany, and on his return from the holy voyage to Jerusalem was taken ill and died in this city of Nicossia. I saw him all naked, he seemed as though he slept, and he has been there three hundred years. Alas, 1 greatly wished my companions had been with me. After we had paid our devotions I returned to dinner. And then I went to hear vespers in the church of S. Sophia, of which I have spoken, and we were shown the right arm of 8. Laurence enshrined in silver, but I saw only a finger-joint. And we were shown a doul)le cross in which I saw a piece quite four inches long of the holy and true Cross of our Saviour, and also many other relics, and then I went to supper. And at the hour of the Ave Maria one of our pilgrims showed me a thing which astonished me greatly. It was an attendant who carried on his shoulders a rail quite ten feet long and about three inches wide, and he tapped on the middle of the rail with two httle wooden mallets, and produced so loud a sound that it was a marvel. He was ringing for the Ave Maria. I had often heard this tapping but knew not what it was. In many of the churches of the (rreeks they have no other bells, so they are at no expense. On September o I went for my pleasure outside the town, not to get into the sun, but so that I could see that at some former time it was a grand thing, for it has two very strong castles, but now it is ugly, for the houses are chiefly of earth and have no roof except some stout reeds and then earth, that is their covering. And the streets are crooked, above and below : such destruction the king of England wrought wlieu he avenged his sister, as I have written before. I stayed in this city of Nicossia until the following Friday. Our captain was very ill, and we quite thought he would die, but he had a good doctor. And I, wlio was very anxious to know liow my companions had fared, left that day. I had spent in all 52 gros. Friday, September 9, after supper I left the city with some Franciscan pilgrims who had hired tlireo carts drawn by cows, and got on one of the carts, but God knows how well shaken we were. I was very soi-ry that I had not taken a mule. We were journeying all the night through until alx.ut an hour after dawn on the morrow. We had to rest in a village to wait for evening, and were poorly treated there, for there were no tables, only wretched planks upon stones: and 1 saw them bake more than forty bits of mutton, such as shoulders anvith a dowry of a hundred thousand ducats, and a few months later passed to another life leaving 88 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. the Queen and his posthumous child heirs of the kingdom. The child died in infancy, and the Queen remained in sole possession, but she would soon have fallen a victim to the ambition of the great island nobles, the craft of the Sultans of Egypt, and the farsightedness of Ferdinand, King of Naples, who longed to make himself master of her kingdom through a marriage with the Queen, if she had not been able to range against these manifest perils the forces of her own country for her maintenance and defence. At last finding herself constantly exposed to violence and to treachery she accepted the advice of her brother George Cornaro, who suggested that she should return to Venice and abandon to the Republic her sovereign rights and the guardianship of the kingdom. Cyprus, henceforth reduced to a province, was defended down to the time of which we are about to speak against the turbulence of its inhabitants and the jealousies of its neighbours by the power of Venice. But now the Turkish Sultan Selim, who coveted the island, set himself to attempt its conquest, waving aside the considerations, which had weighed with his predecessors, that the enterprise was difficult in itself, and certain to stir up against his empire the forces of the Christian princes joined to the powerful armaments of the Venetians. However one day he went out hunting with his principal Pashas (the Turks call an assembly of this kind a mounted Divan) and laid the question before them. The opinions at first were various, Mehmed, the Grrand Vazir, maintaining that it would be more to the advantage and glory of the empire to carry its arms in another direction, either against Spain, to check its aggrandizement and to set free the Moors of Grranada, or against places which might pave the way to conquests in the fairest provinces of Europe. The kingdom of Cyprus was, he said, jealously guarded by the Venetians; the forts fully supplied with troops and artillery, and on the mere report that they would be attacked the Republic had added wonderfully to the fortifications and fastnesses. It ought not to be difficult to the troops of Venice to prevent a landing, and to surprise vessels whose best men would be away, employed in the siege of fortresses ; and again, if on the rumour of an attack the Christian powers were stirred to a common defence, how difficult would be the task undertaken by the Porte of carrying on a war in violation of their pledges, and so soon after the signing of treaties of peace ; on these grounds prudence and the interests of the empire recommended that the acquisition of the kingdom of Cyprus should be deferred to a more convenient season, and that the Venetians should be lulled with the prospects of peace until they could be taken defenceless and unawares. Piali and Mustafa Pasha were of the opposite opinion, though rather for their private ends and their hatred of Mehmed than for the real good of the empire. They suggested to the Sultan that the forces of his kingdom could not be directed to a worthier object than that of adding to it an island conveniently situated and serviceably rich, and which harboured the corsairs of the Levant, who obstructed the free passage of the seas, and were a danger and menace to Musalmans on the voyage to Mecca. That the power of Venice was not sufficiently flourishing to resist the luck and valour of the Ottoman Empire : that the assistance of the princes of Christendom was uncertain, and generally of little service, for past conflicts had made it clear that they might figure as an appendage or ornament, without being a substantial help, to their allies. That the defence of the Cypriot strongholds, and the very existence of the kingdom, depended solely on a few garrisons, which would be reduced by privations and assaults before they could be reinforced by expeditions from other countries. That the natives of the island had through long peace laid aside their military habits, the feudal soldiers had abandoned the use of arms for ease and luxury, and in their stead were employed a low class of mercenaries. That an attack DIEDO. 8» upon Spain would prove exceedingly difficult : the country was far off, mountainous, barren,, and every step would cost blood and peril. Not but they must carry out the constant injunction of their ancestors to extend the empire by ever new conquests, and keep alive the vigour which spreads through the whole bodj'^ into its outlying members, but they need not seek in scattered and remote regions the ephemeral glory of ideal conquests, whose achieve- ment were difficult, and their maintenance certain to dissipate the power of the nation. Selim, encouraged by this reasoning, but still more incited by his own inclination for the enterprise, decided to carry it out, declaring that he would himself lead to the war a force worthy of his empire, and with his own royal presence offer resistance to any attack from the Christian princes. Setting aside therefore his project of uniting the Don and the Volga by a great canal (which was to facilitate his passage into Persia), having allayed certain risings of Aral)s, and having received from the Pasha of Erzerum news of the peaceful dis- position of the King of Persia, he issued strict orders for the construction of a large number of bomb-vessels in the Gulf of Ayas, and in the Mediterranean ; for the fitting out ^vith all speed of the old galleys, and the building of new vessels, and sent express commands to the Beylerbey of Anatolia ((.'aptain General of Asia Minor) to concentrate the troops in all the provinces in Caranmnia. Such were the preparations of the Turks for an attack on the island of Cyprus, and although other pretexts were alleged to excuse them, common rumour and certain unmis- takeable signs made their purpose clear, as Marcantonio Barbaro, ambassador to the Porte, was able to assure the Senate. There were however not a few Senators who flattered themselves that Selim would not, at the beginning of his reign, plunge into a difficult war, which might stir up the Christian princes to injure his empire. They clung to their opinion so obstinately as to impress on the Senate that they should use the greatest caution in their warlike preparations, so as not to divert the Turks from any other enterprise which they might have in view, and not to draw down on the Kcpublic an attack which was probably designed for the injury of others. But ideas of delay were soon exchanged for those of anxious haste, when the Senate was assured by fresh despatches from their ambassador that the Turkish preparations were aimed solely at the island of (.'yprus. Kveryone was excited to rivalry in making suggestions, and in carrying out the decisions of the Senate. It was resolved to fit out one hundred light galleys: eleven commanders were chosen for the large galleys, and Francesco Duodo, a man already illustrious in naval warfare, was appointed to lead them, with the title of Captain. The commaiul of the urnu'd ships was entrusted to I'ietro Trono : and to increase the strength of the whole fleet it was decided to man a galleon of extraordinary size, whose bulk and strength should be the giuird and stay of the smaller vessels. The command of this was given to Girolamo Contariui. 'IMie supreme command of the naval armaments was given to Girolamo Zane, Procurator of S. Mark : he had been elected two years before, but had not set out, and was considered legally entitled to remain in office. A naval force of considerable importance was thus in preparation, and no less energy was shown in reinforcing the garrison in the strongholds of Cyprus, Dalmatia and others m the Levant. They were much strengthened in numbers, and their duties increased, for the greater safety of the forts and the better discipline of the men. As however it was Cyprus rather than the other places which was threatened, the Senate hurried the departure of Eugenic, Singlitico, a Cypriot noble, who held the post of adiutant-general of the land forces, mth a thousand foot soldiers. (Jirolamo Martinengo, a condottierr, was sent there with two thousand foreign infantry: and as the rumour of prompt 12 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. pay drew from all parts mercenaries and captains of renown, all were accepted and trans- ported with all speed to Cyprus. [The armaments were thus complete, but dissensions prevailed in the Senate as to how they could best be employed. The writer inclines to the opinion that a squadron of some forty galleys should have been despatched at once, to infuse courage in their friends, to anticipate the forays, and to interrupt communications between the various provinces of the enemy. A League of the Christian princes would involve delays, provoke jealousies, and result in a display of force more magnificent than eifective. The majority however held that it were unwise to scatter their ships, and invite pursuit. Their fortresses were well found in men and munitions; they could well wait until they had secured the adhesion and help of other Christian powers. Appeal was first made to the Pope, Pius V., who promised his aid, sanctioned the levy of 100,000 ducats from the Venetian dominions, and accepted the conduct of the League. At his instance the King of Spain, Philip IL, ordered his ships to assemble in Sicily, and to await the Pope's directions. The King of Portugal, Sebastian I., pleaded the poverty of his kingdom, recently wasted by the plague, and sent no ships. The German Emperor, Maxi- milian II., gave a general approval only to the object of the League. The King of France, Charles IX., declined to join it, but offered to interpose with friendly counsel between the Porte and the Republic. The Dukes of Savoy and Urbino, and the Grand Duke of Tuscany promised their help : the Duke of Ferrara was only with difficulty persuaded not to side with the enemies of Venice. The Persian king refused to receive its ambassador. The Turks meanwhile hastened their preparations, though the Venetian ambassador was able to postpone the declaration of war until the return of Kubat Chawush, who was despatched to Venice to treat directly with the Senate. Their reply was a defiance, and hostilities commenced on the eastern shores of the Adriatic. At Corfu the Venetians lost twenty thousand men from the plague. The galleys of Venice, Spain and the Church assembled at last at Candia; those of the Porte, under the Hungarian Piale, with Lala Mustafa and Oulouj Ali, Turks, after an unsuccessful attack on the island of Tenos, embarked the troops mustered about Adalia, and sailed for Cyprus. There were one hundred and fifty galleys, with lighters and other smaller craft, pp. 215 — 228.] On July 1, 1570, the Turkish fleet was descried off the western point of Cyprus near Paphos. It sailed South and passed from Limisso to the promontory of Curium, Capo de' Gatti, ravaging the sea shore and carrying off prisoners. The next day it arrived at the Salines, and anchored off the Marina on the East. There Mustafa, meeting no resistance, landed his men and guns, and pushed on a few squadrons towards the interior to discover from prisoners the condition of the country and its fortresses. This happy beginning gave them courage, and they won over to their side many of the inhabitants, taking special care to attract by promises and gifts the hill-folk, whose fastnesses would have been difficult to reduce by force of arms. Mustafa was unwilling to commence the investment of the fortresses before he had collected round him all his troops, and despatched eighty galleys and other vessels to Tripoli and the Caramanian coasts to embark the whole of the land forces, so that in a few days he had assembled with the colours fifty thousand infantry, two thousand five hundred cavalry, as many more carriers, three thousand pioneers, with thirty pieces of large artillery, and fifty of lesser calibre. The garrisons of the Cypriot fortresses were ill matched with so powerful an army. There were but two thousand paid foot soldiers, a thousand delle Cernide di Terra Ferma, DIEDO. 91 and two thousand with Martinengo, and these from various illnesses contracted through a change of climate were daily reduced in number, so that all hope of defending the towns rested on the loj'alty and courage of the islanders, always ready for feats of arms and ventures. The Stradiot horse hardly amounted to five hundred, because the feudal nobles who enjoyed revenues from the royal treasury with the condition of keeping three or four horses each no longer made use of such, but employed mules, which are bred in the island of remarkable size, so that they could furnish scarcely one hundred horses, and these more adapted for show than for use in war. The news of the Turkish landing spread throughout the island, and the inhabitants of the cities were filled with confusion and alarm at the thought that their whole hope of defence rested in the two fortresses of Nicosia and Famagosta. The first was strong and well supplied with artillery, but there were not enough troops to man the vast extent of its walls. Famagosta was small and weak, and needed men of valour, whose strength and high spirit should make up for the defects of its fortifications. Men of authority too were lacking. Martinengo was dead, and there remained only Astorre Baglione in command of the troops. The office of Governor-(Jeneral was vacant by the death of Lorenzo Bembo, and though Sebastiano Veniero had Ijeen appointed by the Senate in his stead he had not time to reach his post before the kingdom was overrun by the enemy. It became absolutely necessary to give the chief military commands to Cypriots of noble family. The Count di Rocas was made lieutenant to Haglione: (riacomo Mores, Count of Tripoli, took charge of the artillery, Giovanni Singlitico of the cavalry, Giovanni Sosomeno of the pioneers. Scipione Caraffa and Pietro Faolo Singlitico were entrusted with the duty of collecting villagers to occupy the mountain passes. These however had Tuore loyalty and smartness than experience in military matters, and there ensued some hesitation as to the way in which they should prevent the Turks from concentrating their attack on the fortresses. It seemed natural to take to the open country, to block the roads, and show a bold front : but their spirit was greater than their means; tliey had but few cavalry, and not infantry enough to defend the walls, and if these men were scattered about in outposts there would be no one to bring supplies to the cities. They resolved however to meet the enemy in the field, and the Count di Rocas, who had with great difficulty c(jllected three hundred horsemen, with one hundred Italian niusketeers on ponies, commanded by Antonio da Berettino and Lazaro Coccapani, started from Nicosia, whih- Baglione left Famagosta with three hundred mounted musketeers and one hundred and fifty Sfmdlots, and the Cavalier Pietro Roncadi came from Baffo mth tlu' few remaining horsemen. When they had met they began to reflect seriously on the risk to which' they were exposing this handful of men with whom rested the very existence of the kingdom, and that too without a chance of any signal success, their numbers bearing no proportion to those of the enemy. They determined accordingly to return to defend the f.,rtresses and so the Turks were left free to advance safely into the island, harrying and wasting the countrj- at th(>ir will, and killing or making captive its inhabitants. The Turkish commanders, encouraged by this lucky beginning, debated where first to turn their arms. I'iale maintained that the army should be led to the siege of Famagos a. It was easier to take, and the soldiers, cheered by the spoil, would be m better heart for the attack of Nicosia, a city situated in a vast plain, far from the sea, and containing an unwarhke population, which would be terror-struck at the fall of Famagosta, and offer terms of cauitulation without bloodshed, , , u i ^ Mustafa differed, and thought that before attacking Famagosta they should make 92 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. themselves masters of Nicosia, where were collected the riches of the kingdom. Its conquest would ensure them the possession of the island, of which Nicosia, from its position, dignity and wealth, might be called the heart. Famagosta had been held by the Genoese for a space of ninety years without disturbing the Lusignan kings in their safe and peaceable possession of the rest of the kingdom. Supposing the Christian forces to arrive, the place could easily be recovered, for it was weak and situated in a corner of the kingdom. The honour and interest of the Empire counselled the removal of the greater difficulties: nor could they •doubt but that were Nicosia taken, the victorious ensigns of the Grand Signer would be planted on every fortress in the island. The camp was then moved towards Nicosia. The Turks found no opposition on the way : the inhabitants, through inconstancy of temperament, or because the yoke of slavery imposed on them by the Cypriot nobles made them flatter themselves that they might find better luck under a new master, even offered them provisions, and gave them the fullest information as to the position of affairs and the condition of the island. The confusion of the commanders, and the alarm of the people of Nicosia at the appearance of the Turkish army was incredible : they were as unready as though the event were wholly unexpected. The city, through the negligence of its chiefs, was poorly provided with grain : the trenches were not thoroughly dug out ; the inhabitants were not disciplined, for up to this time so confident had they been that they would not be attacked that they had quite lately disbanded the island troops called Cernide, and left the town undefended. Niccolo Dandolo had the chief command, a man unfit for so important a post : but generals were few, and a certain reputation acquired at sea seemed to point him out as competent to act under the direct orders of the Governor-General. But this post was unfortunately vacant. Everything was in confusion, but what measures the lack of time and of experience allowed the commanders took. The Cernide, who had scarcely got back to their villages, were recalled, and a decree was published allowing everyone who brought food-stuff into the city to sell it on his own terms. It was of little profit, for the peasants generally had become stupid and confused, and a very large quantity of grain, which might have been brought in for the use of the garrison, remained outside, at the disposal, and to the advantage of the Turks. Their daring increased accordingly. They pitched their camp, set up their pavilions, and put their guns in position, while not a single Cypriot sallied from the town to interrupt the work. The Ottoman main camp extended from Santa Marina to Anglagia, facing the space covered by four of the city's bastions, while large bodies of horse and foot were posted at various points to prevent ingress to and egress from the besieged fortress. Meanwhile soldiers and citizens were disposed within to the best possible advantage, and they began to discharge their cannon, of which there was abundance, and created some confusion in the Turkish camp. After many objections on the part of the generals, a skirmishing party of a few Stradiots left the city. They dared not, on account of their scanty numbers, get beyond the protection of their guns : and even so Andrea Cortese, their captain, advanced too far, and was surrounded and killed. But the more the besieged kept on the defensive the more the courage of the Turks increased. They harassed the walls with cannon, drew trenches close to the ditch, and with a dense hail of musketry and arrows drove the defenders from their posts; and having with incredible speed run up some forts they fought even at a vantage, filling the city with terror and confusion. There were ten thousand infantry in Nicosia, all untried men collected from the villages of the island, and a reserve of fifteen hundred Italians. The number of pioneers was large, DIEDO. 93 for besides the four thousand under Sosomeno many of the islanders had taken refuge within the city : hut arms were fatally wanting, so that many soldiers took their turn of duty on the ramparts armed with spontoons and halberts for lack of pikes and muskets. The generals had little authority, the subaltern officers wavered in their obedience, and a force which had been sufficient for a vigorous resistance, had it been composed of disciplined and tried soldiers under proper commanders, was really weak and ineffective. And so it was that everyone felt that human means were weak indeed to resist so fierce an assault, and with general prayers and solemn processions they implored the favour of heaven. Warm impulse was given to the common devotion by the example and exhortations of Francesco Contarini, Bishop of Baffo, who in the absence of Filippo Mocenigo, Archbishop of Nicosia, held the first place among the ecclesiastics of the kingdom. This prelate preached at length to the nobles and a large concourse of people assembled in the church of 8. Sophia, pointing out the greatness of their danger, but also the confidence, which each one should repose in the omnipotent hand of (jod, of being able to resist the fury of the barbarians, who sought in the conquest of their strongholds to profane their altars, trample down their religion, and turn their churches into foul dens of a false faith. He assured them of the earnest resolve of the Senate to give the island efficient help : lie pictured to them the preparations which the princes of Christendom were making for the common cause, and finally exhorting all to be constant, he offered himself as the companion of their dangers, and joined his prayers to theirs, that God might bless their arms with victory, and spread weakness and confusion among their enemies. All were moved by the bishop's discourse, and there was not a man who did not promise to fight to the death. They crowded eagerly to the defence of the walls, but many fell pierced by the dense hail of the 'I'urkisli nnisketry. In a short time the besiegers had occupied as much ground in front as was covered by two curtains and two bastions. The scanty numbers of the besieged deterred them from sallying out to destroy the enemy's works, but they harassed them with their guns, trusting to the skill of Antonio Berettino, a man well versed in the >ise of artillery, to batti'r and raze the newly constructed forts. A shot carried him off, and no small number of brave soldiers fell beside him. And as the besieged grow (>ver more and more afraid that their resistance could not be long maintained, so ever fresh confidence pushed on the Turks, 'i'liey reached the counterscarp, occupied the fosse, and working away at the foot of the bastions, made a kind of stairway to pave the road for an assault. To try the pluck of the besieged they made a rush at the Costanzo bastion, took its defenders by sui-prise, and dashed these back with such violence that they were able to get over the parapet; but being surrounded by the band of Paolo dal Vasto and Andrea di Aspelle the Turks were repulsed with great slaughter. Yet they spread such terror around them that it was firmly believed that, had they redoubled their attacks, on that very day the city would have easily fallen into their hands. The imminence of the danger was a lesson to the besieged, and after long debate they determined to arrest the progress of the enemy's works, and to destroy the forts, by a sally in force: a resolution hailed with delight by the soldiers, both horse and foot, who feaivd only a useless death on the ramparts. Cesare Piovene, of Vicenza, lieutenant of the Count di Kocas, put himself at their head. At first the sally had its hoped-for effect, for the Turks were surprised as they were taking their mid-day rest, overcome by the excessive heat, and the Cypriots captured two forts and slew every man who defended them. The end might have been as fortunate. It would have been easy to cut down the cavalry, spike the guns, set fire to the ammunition, luul not the soldiers thrown themselves recklessly on the spoil, and given the 1 urks time to 94 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. rally, and to force their assailants into hurried flight, which their eagerness to secure their booty had almost made an utter rout. Piovene, however, with a handful of men, held the fort he had taken, and begged for support from the city, but the Count of Tripoli, who was selected to help him, fearing that the Turks would attack (as they did) the Costanzo bastion, kept his troops with him, and Piovene, -with his comrades, was cut in pieces. The attempt had no other result than to increase the watchfulness of the enemy, who harassed the town by night and day. The besieged gave up all idea of further sallies, and devoted themselves to the repair of the parapets of the bastions, which were in many places destroyed by the enemy's guns, to completing their shelters, and devising defences within. The works advanced but slowly: the pioneers overcome with fatigue and suffering were no longer fit for continuous labour. Yet soldiers and citizens showed the same determination to resist to the end. The reports of the generals and the hope of coming aid armed their courage, and their chiefs skilfully spread rumoui'S of a letter received through a renegade, a fugitive from the Turkish camps, which assured them of the near approach of the Christian fleet. And Avhile they continued promptly and vigorously to repulse assaults and to harass the enemy, Mustafa began to fear for the success of his enterprise, and after shooting into the city darts to which were bound letters full of rumours and threats addressed to the chiefs and nobles, he signalled to the guard of the Costanzo bastion to come to a parley. Hostilities were suspended for two hours, while he caused notice to be given — "that he saw Avith surprise that no reply was given to his letters, as he desired the safety of the inhabitants and the troops : that no one must flatter himself that he would see the Sultan's invincible host retire from the walls before the city surrendered : he knew well that the best soldiers of the defending force had perished, and that the few survivors, as well as the populace, nourished the vain hope that the Christian fleets were soon to appear in their waters, while in truth that of the Venetians was melting away from sickness and death, while they lingered idly in the port of Zara expecting to meet their Spanish allies, Avho had no intention of fitting out their galleys, so that in this campaign the Turks had no fear of being molested by sea : that this delay in surrendering could in no wise affect the unhappy inhabitants except by increasing the misery of their condition : that if forthwith they threw themselves on the mercy of the Sultan he offered them honourable conditions, and security of life and property : if they persisted in their obstinacy and continued the defence they must expect severe punishment." The besieged after debate replied : — " that the garrison and people of Nicosia were faithful to their Prince, and wished to preserve to their latest breath their allegiance to their la^vf ul Sovereign : they were certain that while fighting in so just a cause they should not be abandoned by G-od, but even though He had willed it otherwise, they chose rather to die gloriously than to live on in infamy." The Turks gave up the hope of a voluntary surrender of the city, and set themselves with all their might to reduce it by force. They kept their cannon incessantly at work, and day by day made fresh attacks. In one of these Griacomo di Nores, Count of Tripoli, fell in the Costanzo bastion ; his brother Francesco Maria succeeded to his command. As the season was advancing Mustafa determined to take the city by an attack of all arms, Avhile closely investing four bastions, Podocataro, Costanzo, Davila and Tripoli ; but so strong was the faith of the besieged in the approach of help, that they ascribed the last attempt of the Turks to despair, and on every side withstood with wonderful courage the assaults of the enemy, Avhom they repulsed with alarm and loss. Mustafa feared no less than the firmness and bravery of the besieged the hesitation of his own troops, and specially the Janissaries, to renew the attack, but he encouraged them with the hope of reAvards, and DIKDO. 95 announced that tlie first three who crossed the walls should be made Sanjaqs, while he also who first entered the captured city should at the first vacancy be raised to the rank of Pasha. Thinking that he saw the vigour of his f(n-ce i-enewed by these promises he resolved to lead them to a general attack on the following morning. Before sunrise the Turks moved up to the same bastion from which they had been repulsed the day before; but now they found the besieged sunk in sleep. So greatly were they impressed with the hope of coming aid, that they felt secure against fresh attacks : they fancied the Turks were limbering up their guns and preparing to retreat, although the noise which reached them from the enemy's camp was really that of preparation for the final assault. As it was, without labour oi- peril the Turks scaled the walls of the Costanzo bastion, cr\ished the wearied defenders, and dashed wildly into the inmost shelters, while the Count di Rocas was too late to put spirits into his troops, already disordered and flying. He fell by a musket ball, and with him were lost all steadiness, all judgment: the host ran blindly, each man seeking in his own house a treacherous shelter. Pietro Pisani, a Councillor, and Bernardino Pollani, Captain of the Salines, came up, but their presence made little impression on the confused and flying troops. The first was trodden down and killed, the other retreated with a large following int(j the city, and for a long time held his own against the terrible charges of the invaders. But the Turks were masters of the Costanzo bastion, and pressing on to seize the rest, made terrible havoc, showing no mercy to those who threw down their arms and begged for life, and hacking down the soldiers, and so passed to the square where the citizens held out with a courage and fierceness equal to that of their assailants. At last the Pasha of Aleppo, who had entered the city by the Tripoli bastion, bi'ought up thence three cannon and with repeated shots drove the crowd, disordered and maimed, into the courtyard of the palace. Thither had retreated many distinguished persons, among whom were the Lieutenant and Bishop Contanni. The Pasha despatched to the Lieuteiumt a Cypriot monk who had fallen into his hands, sunnnoning the citizens to treat. To save their lives they agreed to yield, and by the Pasha's orders laid down their arms, but the doors were scarcely opened when the Turks sprang with their weapons upon the defence- less {^rowd, and butchered them all, the chiefs, the bishop and every fugitive. Such was the lamentable end of the wretched citizens, such the tragic fate of Nicosia, a city famed as a fortress, glorying in its buildings, and widely known for its riches. Its happy position, its pleasant climate, the gifts showered on it by nature, the added charms of art, had givi'u it a place among the fairest, strongest and most renowned cities of Europe. 'I'he foi-tress was theirs, and the Turks set themselves to search it throughout, and to work upon the inhabitants, their houses and churches, the impious barbarities which such nations us(> towards the cities they conquer. V'irgins were violated, matrons dishonoured, nobles and plebeians thrown together into chains, sanctuaries defiled, holy relics scattered and trampled under foot. Yet did not this suffice. Tlie victorious soldiery, satiated with booty, blo(j(l and lust, gave further vent to their execrable savagery by tearing from their graves the bones and dust of the dead, and scattering them in fiendish rage over the streets. 'I'he niutli day of September saw the fall of the city, 'i'he attacks had lasted fifteen days, (hiring which tinu- so fierce was the fighting, and so many were killed both within and without the walls, that perhaps hardly more lives were sacrificed in the final combat, though in that one day were butchered more than twenty thousand persons of every age and sex. Great was the treasure sent by Mustafa to Constantinople, in presents to the Sultan and chief Pashas, and the nund)er of prisoners of distinction was not inconsiderable. Wlien the greed of connnanders and their troops was satisfied, and a garrison of four thousand soldiers had 96 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. taken up its quarters in the city, the Turkish army left Nicosia, on its way to Famagosta, the only town which remained faithful to the Venetians ; for the other districts of the kingdom, as well as the hill-folk, had quietly accepted the Turkish yoke. PARUTA. Paolo Paruta was born in Venice in 1540, entered public life on the staff of an embassy sent by the Piepubhc in 1562 to the Emperor Maximihan II., and eventually filled all the chief offices of State, short of that of Doge. As Historiographer of the Republic he took up the annals begun by Pietro Bembo, and continued by Luigi Contarini, and brought them down to March, 1573. His account of the Siege of Nicosia (Storia delta Guerra di Cipro, Libri ire, 8vo, Siena, 1827, pp. 92—122) is here given as " made English " by Henry Carey, second Earl of Monmouth, who succeeded his father in 1639, and died s. p. m. June 13, 1661. This translation was published in folio, London, 1658. I transcribe from Part ii. pp. 46 — 60. The narrative of the Siege of Famagusta I have translated anew from the original Italian, pp. 122 — 124 and 235 — 261. Diedo's account of the same event may be found in his Storia della Repubblica di Venezia, Venice, 1751, volume ii. book vn. pp. 263 — 271. Paruta died in 1598, and his History was published by his sons in 1605. It is prized for its exactness, for the dignity and strength of its style, and the skilful way in which the author makes his full account of the affairs of Venice flow on with the general stream of Italian history. The Siege of Nicosia. The Turkish Fleet was discryed to be about Balfo, upon the western Cape of the Island, on the first day of July, which falling lower towai-ds the South, scoured the River which is between Limisso and the Promontory, which is called by many Capo de' G-atti, taking many prisoners, and sacking and pillaging several country houses. But making no long stay there they steered the same course, and came the next day to Saline, a place which lies upon the same shore, somewhat more towards the East; where not meeting with any to withstand them they landed their artillery, and their souldiers, and secured their quarters by strong Rampiers, from whence they issued out to plunder the neighbouring parts, endeavouring to inform themselves by the prisoners of the affairs of the island, and advancing as far as Leucata, a town nine leagues from Saline, they easily reduced those country people to their obedience, to whom Mustafa Pasha gave many gifts, and promised them much more, thereby to invite others to submit to his devotion, especially the mountainers, whom he could not so soon reduce by force. This mean while the Turks sent forth 80 gallies, and many bottoms of burthen, some to Tripoli, some to the rivers of Caramania, to raise more souldiers and horse : so as their whole forces being soon after brought together, there were found (as most men affirm) in the Turkish army 50000 Foot, 3000 Pioniers, 2500 Horse for war, besides as many or more for burthen, 30 pieces of artillery, some bearing bullets of 50 1. weight, some of 100 1., and 50 Faulconets. But there were not garrisons in the island of Cyprus sufficient to resist such forces ; for there were not above 2000 Italian Foot in the usuall garrisons, nor were there any more sent afterwards, save 3000 of the common people di Terra Ferma, and the 2000 of Martinengo's men, which by suffering at sea were reduced to a much lesser number. So as the greatest hope in defending the cities lay in the new Militia, which was mustered of the islanders themselves, from whom, as was affirmed by many Captains and Governours, excellent DIEDO. PARUTA. 97 service might upon all occasions be expected. Nor were there any Horse in the Kingdom for action, save 500 StradinfM which were still kept in pay, nor was it easie to get more, for though many of the nobles who enjoyed several things from the Camera Reale, some through antient, some through new privileges, were bound to find by those their Fee-farms three or four horses a piece for the Prince's service, and that these amounted to about 700 horses, yet were there not many more than 100 of them that were serviceable at this time. Nay, the breed of horses was very much decayed throughout the whole island, by reason of the greater conveniency which the inhabitants found in riding upon mules, whereof this country produceth great almndance, and those very large. Things were therefore in a very bad posture, since there wanted sufficient forces to withstand so powerful an enemy who were masters of the field : nor could they long maintain two Forts, whereof Nicossia being one, by reason of the largeness thereof required a great many souldiers to defend it ; and the other which was Famagosta, though it was lesser was so weak and imperfect as it likewise required many men, and tho.se valiant ones too, to make good the defects of the Fort. And though these forces were but small yet were they of lesser use for want of experienced commanders: for there was not anyone in the whole island of quality or condition save Astore Baglione, who was general of that Militia, Martinengo being dead at .sea as hath been said. Nor was there any Commissary (leneral of the island, nor any Venetian magistrate, as is usually had in all places in times of danger; for ijorenzo Bembo, who held that place, was dead but a little before, in wliose place tliough the Senate soon chose Sebastian Veniero, Commissary of Corfu, yet could he not come so soon to Cyprus to execute his office. The chief commands of war were therefore conferr(>d upon divers Cyprian gentlemen, who were of great wealth and nobility, and very well affected towards the commonwealth, but of very little or no experience at all in the Militia, and therefore the less fit for such employment. Count Rocas was made liaglione's Lieutenant, who after Bembo's death held supream authority in all things belonging to the Militia. Ciacomo di Nores, Count of Tripoli, was master of the artillery; Giovanni Singlitico, Captain of all the horse of the kingdom, (iiovanni Sosomeno, Captain of the PionitM-s, Scipione Caraffa and Pietro Paolo Singlitico, Captains of the country people, who were to be placed in strong situations upon the mountains; and so other offices and emplo> ni("nts were disposed of to others. And the received opinion being that the Turks would first assault Famagosta, Baglione would go to the custody thereof himself, that he might use his endeavours where there should be most need. Things being thus ordered, after many consultations it was concluded, that the first thing they would do should be by all possible means to hinder the enemy from landing; or at least to infest them, keepmg along the shf)re whither they should seem to come, so as they should be enforced to separate and change their station, by that means prolonging the business since they could not tarry long upon those downs without danger, where th(-re was no harbour for their fleet: accordmg to which advice as soon as they heard news of the enemy's approach, Count Rocas parted from Nicossia with three hundred horse, which was all that in so great haste could be got together and witli one hundred dragoons, commanded by Antonio dal Beretino and l.azzaro Cocopan'i, and marched towards the place which was designed for mustermg all the Horse, which was a fitting plac,> for that purpose, not far from the shores of the Sahne where it wa^ thought the enemy's Heet would laud their men, because there was the best anchormg, and for that it was nearest the two chiefest cities, Nicossia and Famagosta. Baghone went also from Famagosta with 800 dragoons and 150 stradiotti. Pietro Roncadi, who was (xovernor of the Albanese Militia, going at th(> same time from Baffo, ^vith the rest of the cavalry ; which being all met they resolved not to advance any further, nor to attempt anythmg, but 13 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. to return all from whence they came; were it either, for that they considered their forces better, or for the nearness of the danger, being much troubled at the suddain news, that above 300 sail (for so it was reported) were already upon the shore ; or for that they thought it was too late, and would be to no purpose to do what they formerly had resolved, the enemy being already arrived, and having begun to land their men. So all things were left free and safe to the Turks, to their no little wonder; for they began at first to suspect that this easy entrance into the enemy's country did not proceed from any weakness, negligence or cowardice of the defendants, but that it might be done out of some design, or military stratagem, to draw them unawares into some snare. They therefore knew not at first what to do, and proceeded with much caution ; but having over run many parts and done much prejudice, not meeting with any resistance, they grew more bold ; they did not only advance with their whole camp, but roved up and down everywhere whithersoever their desire of pillage or any other thing drew them, without any order or colours. But the Commanders, that they might lose no more time in vain, began to think upon drawing near one of the two chiefest Forts of the Kingdom. Piali was for expugning Famagosta first, hoping to get it within a few days, which being lost, he said, that Nicossia must likewise necessarily fall soon into their hands ; for that being full of unnecessary people, far from the seashore, in midst of a Campagna, beset by so many enemies, it would not be able to be relieved, without which it could not long hold out. That Famagosta was a little and a weak Fort, and so defective as it would not be able to withstand the first battery ; nor were the defendants so many, or so valiant, as that they durst expect the assault of so brave an army, whose reputation would be so much encreased by that victory, as all things would become easy which might as yet peradventure be thought difficult. Nay, this sole example infusing terrour into all the inhabitants would be sufficient to put them soon and with little trouble, in possession of the whole kingdom. But Mustafa aflfirmed on the contrary that the reputation of so great forces ought not to be lessened by falling upon petty enterprises, whereby to encourage the enemy and to dishearten their own men. That Famagosta was possessed by the Genueses for the space of 90 years, and yet the Lusignan Kings were masters of the Island at the same time. So as it might be conceived, the taking of that city would not make much towards the getting of the whole kingdom; whereas the whole nobility were withdrawn into Nicosia, and most of the people, wealth and ammunition of the island, so as one labour might do the whole business. That the alterations which are often seen to fall out in a short time when great actions are in hand, are not to be foreseen : nor was it certain that Famagosta would be so soon taken, but that they should rather be necessitated to imploy those forces elsewhere, according as the Christian Fleet should divert them : so as if they should depart from the island, and leave the enemy masters of almost all the whole kingdom, they should get but little good by such an enterprise. He further added, that the air about Famagosta was very bad, the town being seated low amongst marish grounds, and that therefore it would be unsupportable to those that were not long accustomed thereunto ; that therefore they were not to carry their soldiers where they were likely to perish of sickness, but where they might give proof of their valour: that to die without praise or merit was common ; that no worthy valiant man could fear the greatest dangers of war, or of the enemy's forces, when they were accompanied with the hopes of glory. Moreover, that they had learnt by such prisoners as they had taken, that the men of chiefest authority, and best experienced souldiers, were withdrawn into Famagosta, wherein the true defence of cities lay ; not in walls nor bulworks, when every man's valour is to be tryed in assaults ; the skill and worth of his souldiers being much better, as was known by experience, in taking PARUTA. 99 in of strongholds, than was the art or industry of Christians in erecting or in defending them. That their great train of artillery, the infinite number of their Pioners, and their experience in such things, would facilitate their throwing down the walls of Nicossia, and the bringing of their valiant souldiers to an assault; wherein being to meet with but little resistance, by i-eason of the paucity and pusillanimity of the defendants; it was not to be doubted but that the victory would fall into their hands, with as much, nay peradventure with more easiness than they could hope for of Famagosta, but certainly with much greater rewards, and more worth their labour and hazard. For these reasons, and out of the respect born to Mustafa's authority they resolved to attempt Nicossia first, towards which the whole Camp moved the 22 of July, having sent five hundred Horse towards Famagosta, to hinder commerce between those two cities. All this while the Cavalry lay idle in Nicossia, leaving the whole country open and free to be pillaged by the enemy, though Cavalier Roncadi, and some other Cxentlemen of the City, did often earnestly desire that they might go out, and shew themselves to the enemy, to keep them from growing the bolder, by reason of these the Nicossians' too timorous, and peradventure too cowardly counsells. But those who had the Government of afFairs, not thinking it fit to hazard those men who were intended for the defence of the City, would by no means be brought to give way thereunto. Yet being more moved by the offences of their own men than by those of the enemy, when they heard of the rebellion of Lefcara's family, which had not onely suddenly come in to Mustafa, but committing other outrages to the prejudice of those of the City, had sent some of their men to persuade other Citizens, who had retired themselves to certain nan-ow passages amidst the mountains, and were free from being injured by the Turks, that following their example, they should discend into the plains, and submit willingly unto the Turks, it was resolved one night to send out 100 Horse and 400 Foot to fire that hamlet, whereof almost all the inhabitants, to the number of above 400 were put to the sword. Thus their treachery was severely punisht, and by the terror thereof, the desire of novelty was curb'd in many of the inhabitants, by reason of the slavery wherein they were, for the aforesaid causes, so as it was clearly seen, that hoping by change of government to change their fortune, they were not onely not likely to oppose the enemy, but rather to afford them all conveniency ; which inclination of theirs Mustafa sought by all possible means to nourish, making many presents, and greater promises to such as should come in unto him. But the Turks pursuing their way without any obstacle, drew near the walls of Nicossia, and as soon as the Army was discovered by those that were within the town, they were all possest with infinite fear. Nicolo Dandolo was then Governor of that City.'being made lieutenant thereof by the Common-wealth, a man of weak judgement to manage so weighty a businesse, but who had that preferment put upon him, out of an opinion conceived, that though he was not very quick witted, yet he was good at action, by reason of the experience which ho was believed to have gotten in severall imployments at sea. He having either lost his understanding through the extraordinary apprehension of danger, or not knowing through his want of reason and understanding, how to provide against so great an exigency, increased the difficulties and danger: for when the enemies' fleet was arrived, he had not got the ditches to be fully emptied, nor ordered the Militia, nor those of the country nor provided for sufficient victualls for the City. To amend which disorders he was forced to commit greater; a publick Edict was made, that it should be lawf ull for every one to take corn wheresoever they could finde it, which being brought mto the City, should be understood to be their own, which being too late a remedy, could not work the effect which was expected; a good part thereof being left abroad in the country houses, with a double 13— "2 100 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. inconvenience to the country-men, by reason of the advantage the enemy made thereof. Moreover, having with very little regard to the eminency of the danger dismist the meaner sort, he in great haste, and confusion, sent for them back, before they were got to their own homes, and did at the same time list new souldiers in the country, as the occasion and necessity did best dictate ; whilst our men opprest thus by many mischiefs, spent their time in ordering their affairs, and in advising how they might hinder or disturb the enemies' proceedings; all resolutions being the longer in taking, for want of any Chieftaine, who might decide the diversity of opinions : the Turks had leasure and opportunity given them, to set up their Pavillions, plant their Artillery, and fortifie their Quarters, not meeting with any disturbance, save by shot from the town. For though the Stradiotti did often sally out with some companies of Harchebugiers to skirmish, yet not daring by reason of their small numbers, to go further from the walls than they were sheltred by shot from the town, nor the enemy approaching so near, as that they might be thereby prejudiced, nothing of moment insued. And Andrea Cortese, Captain of the Stradiotti, a bold and adventurous man, being one day advanc'd a good way before his own men, he was inviron'd by a great many of the enemy, and after having valiantly defended himself for a long while, was slain. The Turkish Army incampt themselves from Santa Marina to Aglangia, possessing the whole space of ground which was opposite to four Bulworks : and on the other side of the Fort, whither the Campe reached not, each Bashaw sent out 100 Horse, and as many Foot, so as the City being inviron'd on all sides, could neither receive in, nor send out any men. Nicossia stands in the midst of the Island, almost equally distant from the Northern and Southern shore, and from the two utmost parts of the Island, Baffo, and Carpasso : It abounds in fresh water, is of an indifferent wholsome air, being breath'd on by the pleasant South- west wind, which inlivens and refresheth the inhabitants when they are wearied, and swelter'd with the immoderate heat of that climate, wherefore it was more inhabited than any other City of the Kingdom ; and this was the cause why the Island being to be secured by a Fort, the Cyprians, not valuing any other situation, concur'd all of them readily and liberally in contributing towards this, so as this City was reduced into a Fort Royall, by the means of Francesco Barbaro, Commissary of the Island, and of Julio Savorgnano, the (lovernor, to whom the Senate had committed the particular care thereof. The Fort was of a circular form, with eleven bulwarks whose front was 75 paces, and their shoulders thirty ; so as each of them was capable of 2000 foot, and of four pieces of Cannon, and they were so built, as there being out-lets on every side, the souldiers might go shelter'd on all sides to the counterscarpe ; but they were chiefly secured to the platforms, which were above 30 paces broad, so as it was held by such as were possessors of military discipline one of the fairest and best fortifications that was in the world, for as much as could be contributed by art. But as there was plenty of these things, so was there scarcity of defendants; for when Astore Baglione went from thence, Colonell Roncone remained there, with charge of the Oommunalty of the Island, and of all the Italian Militia, and some other captains, who though they had some experience in war, and were ambitious of honour; yet having but small authority, their advice profited but a little : for they were either not listened to, through the indiscretion of such as stood at the helm of government ; or else accepted of with much dispute and difficulty, and therefore but slowly, and badly executed. It was therefore resolved, to send to Famagosta, to desire Baglione, that he himself would come to Nicossia, and bring some souldiers along with him : but the Magistrates of that City thinking that they had not men enough to defend it, and not being certain but that the enemy might alter their minds, so as they might have occasion to use them themselves ; they positively refused PARUTA. 101 to part either with their men, or with their Captain; and Baglione making use of their authority, desired to be excused for that time : adding that Martinengo's souldiers, having lost their Commander, said absolutely that they would render obedience to none but to him; so as his coming away might cause some great disorder in that City. There were then in Nicossia 10000 foot for her defence, whereof 1500 were Italians, and all the rest inhabitants of the Island, to wit, 3000 of the common sort, 2500 of the City, 2000 newly lifted into the Militia, taken out of the countiy houses, and paid partly out of the Exchequer, partly out of private mens purses, and 1000 Nicossian gentlemen: these were almost all new men un- experienced, and not over-well armed, in so much as many wanting Pikes and Muskets were forced to use Bills and Halberts. But the City was very well provided of artillery, nor were there wanting such as knew how to manage them ; they had likewise great store of Pioners, to make use of upon any occasion : for, to boot with 4000 listed under Jovan Sosomeno, they had taken in above 4000 more fit for such imployments. Yet amidst so many men, and so much ground, the commanders not agreeing in the manner how to order their inworks, this so necessary provision was left imperfect. By these disorders these forces were weakened, which were certainly too few to resist so puissant an army of the enemies; wherein, on the contrary, great observancy, and reverence was given to the commanders, and all military actions, being severely ordei'ed, were with strange readinesse observed. Mustafa's authority, who was a bold and warlike personage, as also his reputation by the fame which he had won by fighting in Helino's army before he was emperour, against his brother Ahmed; the unhoped for victory which was then gotten being attributed to his forward valour. The souldiers, who were accustomed to the duties of war, to labour and hardships, grew much more hardy, by the opinion they had of their captain's worth and by the hopes of great reward which was promised them upon getting the victory. There were, as hath been said, a great number of men in the army, the chief e foundation whereof consisted in 6000 Janisaries, and 4000 Spacrlii, (these are souldiers who are kept in continuall pay, to serve on horse-back, and upon occasion, do serve with others on foot) valiant men, and brought up in war. 'Hierefore the more humane foresight had been wanting to provide against such forces, the more did they apply themselves to beg assistance from Cod. Solemn processions were daily made throughout the City, which were done the more frequently, and with the more devotion, by the example and exhortation of Francisco Contarini, Bishop of Baffo, in whom episcopall dignity became more honourable and reverend by the ancient nobility, and by the riches of his family, and by his own goodness and worth. He being the prime ecclesiastick person, (for Philippo Mocenico, Arch-bishop of Nicossia, was then at Venice) was not wanting in performing such duties to tho.se people which they could have expected from their own pastour. The chief of the City being one day assembled in the church of Santa Sophia, where were also many men of all conditions, he spoke thus unto them. "If I shall look upon the greatnesse of the present dangers, I cannot but much "apprehend the connnon safety; and as doubting the issue, and with a submisse mind, " yield to adverse fortune. And if on the other side, I think upon your worth, magnanimity, " fortitude, and constancy, I ftnde a certain warmth arise within me, which encourageth me " to hope for better things. But if I raise myself from these more lowly cogitations, to the " consideration of divine providence and goodnesse, my first fear is not onely allayed, but is " changed into an assured hope : For when I observe the truth better, I know that hard and "difficult things become easye, to such as are valiant; and even impossibilities to faithfuU " Christians, are made facile. Therefore if you be not wanting in your antient and known " worth and if you continue constant and stedfast in that faith, which, together with your 102 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. " own safeties, you have undertaken to defend, I am assured, you will find these troubles at " the last, not ordained for your mine, but for your praise and eternal glory. "We know by " infinite examples of all ages, how many sieges have been withstood and rendred vain, by " a few, though the besiegers were very numerous. Constant worth, and a noble resolution " of undaunted mind being sufficient to stave off great dangers. But as for such, whom Grod ''hath taken into His particular custody, no powers of man hath been able to prejudice them; " nay, nature's self, the very Heavens and Elements have been subservient to them. The " waters stood still, and made a safe passage to the Jewes, through the midst of the sea ; the " most scorched grounds afforded them fountains of clear water, to refresh them withall, and " the Heavens gave them Manna, a miraculous food, to nourish them. We are to hope for " these, or the like assistances, from the hand of Grod, for Selino Ottaman is a no lesse " wicked and cruell persecutor of the faithfull, than was that antient Pharaoh. Nor are we " Christians, who are bought with the blood of His Son, lesse dear to God, or lesse beloved by " Him, than any others have formerly been, of which future miracle we have an evident late " example, which may perswade us to believe we may share of. Do you know in what " condition the Island of Malta was, this time five years ? begirt by so long and so sore " a siege, oppugned by so many souldiei'S, defended by so few, void of all hopes of help, and " in all sorts of wants and necessities. Yet the defendants, no whit lessening their valour nor " loyalty, for whatsoever adverse fortune, the Barbarians power was rendred vain and uselesse, " and they were laught at, for their over-daring attempt. And that the power of divine " providence might the more appear, the Fort, when reduced to the last extremity, was freed " from the siege by the enemy, before it was relieved by friends. You are to imitate those " stout and valiant men, by exposing your selves willingly to all the labours and dangers of " war, nay you must exceed them : for those knights, being forrainers, of severall nations, " fought for religion, and glory ; you do not onely defend these, but also your wives, children, " and estates ; so as all things, both human and divine, invite you to shew invincible valour ; " and that the more readily and boldly, as that you being free men, and generous, are to " fight against slaves, base aiid unarmed people, wont to overcome more by their numbers, " than their valour. Which advantage they at the present want, this City being defended " by strong walls, and by so many great guns, as this alone will be sufficient to repulse the " enemy, who if they shall dare to assault us, you are sure of the victory, if you can but " withstand their first brunt. For it cannot be long ere the succour come, which you have " heard our common wealth is sending us, with a powerfull Fleet, which will never refuse to " expose all her forces readily, for the preservation of this kingdom, which she esteems, as " a noble member of her state, and loves so well. These humane provisions being of them- " selves sufficient to deliver us, will, through your prayers, faith, and firm resolution to forego " your sins, make you invincible ; when your sins being punished more by fear then pain, " you shall have time and reason, to honour and praise the All-gloi'ious God, Who shewing " you only the face of His anger, in the fury of this barbarous Ottaman, will have provided "for your souls health, and for your atchieving of heavenly blessings, together Avith the "preservation of your lives, country, and estates; to the end that you may use all these " hereafter, to His glory. Who is the true and liberall Lord, and the free giver of all grace." The whole auditory seemed much affected by these words, so as they cheerfully comforted one another; and preparing couragiously to defend themselves, they betook themselves solicitously to all military actions, to secure their parapets, to bestow their companies in places of greatest danger, and to guard their bulworks carefully. The danger encreased daily, as the enemy drew nearer; for the Turks wanting neither for diligence nor industry. PARUTA. 103 were come with their trenches very near the ditch, and by frequent musquet shot, playing upon those that were upon the walls, kept them from appearing upon the parapets. Moreover, they planted diverse great pieces towards the City, on St. Marina's side, whereby they did much prejudice to the houses, not without great fear unto the people. But that which gave the commanders justest cause of fear, was, their stupendious earth works, which being made with great art and expedition, severall forts were seen within a few daies, to be raised to such a height, as the enemies standing upon them, might fight securely, and upon great advantage; and make use, not onely of their artillery against our men, but of their arrows, and artificiall fire-works, which being thrown over the walls, and fastning upon wool-sacks, whereof the traverses were made, destroyed those works, depriving those within of those defences. The difficulty grew the greater to the defendants, for that being but a few, they could hardly supply the duties, which the defence of so many places required ; so as they were forced to keep from sending people abroad to molest the enemy, lest they might add to their own difficulties. Their chief hope lay in their artillery, which being well managed, did disturb the enemies works; Antonio dal Beretino, a witty man, and a well experienced canonier, did much good thereby to those of the town. But the City soon lost him, and many others, who were well verst in that affair; for being shot by the enemies, whereunto they were continually exposed, most of them were slain. So as the Turks brought on their trenches so far, as they came to the counterscarfe, wherein making some breaches, they at last entred the ditch ; and having thereby made rampiers of earth, whereby to defend themselves from the enemies shot, they began to undermine the bulworks with their mat-hooks, so as they soon made stairs, whereby they might the more easily mount the bulworks ; and climbing up thereby, they began to make some little assaults upon the bulworks, Costanzo and Podocataro, (which were so called, from the families of such gentlemen, as had had a particular care in building the Fort) to see, how they that were within would behave themselves. And so it fell out, as those who were upon the defence of Costanzo, being surprised at unawares, suffered themselves to be so charged, as numy of the Turks advancing very boldly, got beyond the parapets, but Paolo dal Guasto and Andrea da Spelle, falling upon them with their companies, the enemies were repulst, much to their prejudice ; but not without the losse of many of our men, particularly of Andrea who fighting valiantly amongst the foremost, was slain. This unexpected assault did so terrific the defendants, as many thought, that if the Turks had seconded the first assailants with greater forces, the City would have been lost. But the eschewing of this danger gave them no better hopes, for they could find no way to disturb the Turks works, who labouring continually in the making of, as it were, severall cawseys of earth, twenty five foot broad, which reached from their trenches to the breaches, which (as hath been said) was made in the counterscarf ; and sheltring those waies (m the sides, with faggots, and baskets fill'd with earth, they prepared for greater, and more secure assaults; which if they were not timely opposed, there was no way of safety left. So as though it was a hard and dubious thing, to expose the best of their few good souldiers to so great danger; yet no better exigency appearing, they resolved upon that course at last, which had been severall times before refused. Cesare Piovene, an Italian, Count Rocas his Lieutenant, sallied therefore out of the town, %vith part of the Italian foot, and with the horse, intending to fight the enemies trenches, and their forts, to clog their artillery, and to destroy, or at least to do what mischief he could to their works, which resolution was very welcome to the souldiers, who were impatient to see themselves daily wasted, and the utmost of dangers to draw nigh, without making any triall of themselves, or taking revenge upon the enemie. But this generous action, being perhaps too lately attempted, was then too 104 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. precipitously pursued, m'ought not the good eifect whicli was hoped for nor which the happy beginning promised ; wherein Piovine boldly advancing, took two of the enemies forts, and slew almost all that were within them; who being sweltred with the extream heat, (for it was at full noon when our men assaulted them) and being free from any apprehension, had laid aside their arms and were fallen asleep. But Piovene's souldiers, according to the abusive custom of our militia, gave over pursuing the victory, and fell to pillage; which disorder became afterwards the greater, because the Grrecians and Albaneses having too early advanced with their horse, to assault the enemies trenches ; were it either, for that vying with the Italians for valour, they would be the first that should appear in that action; or that they were not well pleased to be commanded by Piovene ; they, by this their unseasonable haste, made those of the camp too soon acquainted with their comming, so as many Turks hasting thither, they easily made our men run, who were divided, and busied about plunder. But Piovene together with Count Alberto and Jovan Battista da Fano tarrying with some few of their men, to defend the fort which they had taken after a long and stout withstanding, the enemies comming still in, in great numbers, were cut in pieces. These valiant men were encouraged to make this defence out of hopes of being soon assisted by those from within, the usuall signe of succour being already given between them. But because the Turks, who upon the notice of our mens comming out, were assembled together in great numbers, and making use of this occasion, prepared to assault the bulwork Costanzo, as they did afterwards; Count Tripoli, who had the keeping thereof, was forc'd to stay Captain Gregorio Panteo, who was appointed to go forth with the relief, that he might make use of him, and of his men, against the enemies unexpected assault; who not being able, after a long dispute, to mount the parapets, were forced to retreat. Thus the Turks continued many daies to annoy those within, by severall waies, and to attempt the taking of the City, though but with triviall assaults. Wherefore by reason of the paucity of the defendants, our forces were much lessened, which coidd not well discharge all the duties which were to be done, both by day and night, in severall parts of the City, The parapets of the bulworks were already very much weakened, and in some places wholly cast down, by the enemies continuall shot ; so as great diligence was used to fill up those parapets with earth, and to finish the in works, where they were imperfect, and to erect some cavalliers for more security upon the bulworks. But these works proceeded on but slowly ; for the Pioners, wearied with watching, and other hardships, grew not able to perform their work ; and because the enemies artillery which were levelled by day, shot also by night, and did much harm. Yet the souldiers, especially the Italians, and the gentry of the City, continued stedfast in their resolution to defend themselves to the very last, being a little comforted with hopes that the Venetian fleet would soon come, and raise the siege. No answer was therefore given to divers letters, which were conveyed by the Turks into the City, by arrowes, wherein the Bashaw Mustafa writing, sometimes to the governours, sometimes to certain of the chief nobility of the City, and sometimes to the people in generall, exhorted them to yield, promising, in case they would do so, to use great liberality and humanity towards them ; and denouncing severe punish- ment, if they should doe otherwise. But finding that they could not learn any thing of the people's, nor of the governour's intention by this means ; they made signs of parley to those of the bulwork of Constanzo ; and having free liberty given them to do so, they in the name of the Bashaw Mustafa, said, " That he wondered very much that he had received no answer " to any of his letters, as if his forces were despised, which were notwithstanding such, as he " might have ended the war much sooner by them, had he not had regard to their safeties, " which they themselves seemed to slight so much. That therefore he had thought good to PARUTA. "admonish them, that duly weighing the state of their affairs, which was now reduced to the " utmost of dangei-, by the death of so many defendants, and for that there was no hope of " reHef left them ; for he had had certain intelligence, that the Venetian fleet being opprest " with much sicknesse, and other difficulties, could not stir out of their havens : it might " suddeidy so fall out, that they might in vain intreat those fair conditions which they now " refused ; for he could no longer moderate the souldiers rage, who had made frequent " demands, that they might bo permitted to plunder the City, in reward of the labours and " dangers which they had undergone. So as if they should delay surrendring the town, the " mine thereof would be attributed rather to their foolish obstinacy, than to the cruelty of " the enemy." Having quickly resolved to give an answer to these words, for the truce was to last but for tw(j hours, they put an end to the parley, telling them onely, "That the " souldiers and citizens were firmly resolved to defend the City with all their might, to the " very last minute, and to keep loyall to their prince ; so that whatsoever the event should "be, nothing could be more desired of them, but better fortune, which they hoped they " should not fail of, since they would not be failing to themselves, to their honour, nor to their " religion, which, together with their safety, they had undertaken to defend." Thus having placed all their hopes in their arms, the governours thought good to feed the souldiers and people with hopes of succour, which did chiefly increase in them their resolution, and courage to defend themselves. Wherefore they made it be divulged by a renegado who was fled from the enemies camp to the City; that he had brought letters from Famagosta, which brought certain news of the arrival of the Christian fleet ; which that it might be the more credibly believed, the captains which were upon the mountains with the Islanders, were ordered to give the sign of ten fires, which every one knew was to give notice to the City, that the Christian navy was arrived. This wrought such impression in some, as imagining that to be true which they did so nmch desire, they affirmed they saw the Turks begin to remove their artillery, and their pavillions. But the enemy who feared nothing lesse, continued their batteries, whereof nothing t)f remarkable issued for some days, save onely that Jacobo di Nores, Count of Tripoli, one of the chief Barons of the kmgdom, who had won the name of being vigilant and valiant, was slain in an assault which was given to the bulw.,rk Costanzo, and his brother Francisco Maria was in his place made governour ^ MMn.s'ilid'the Turks waste those within by little and little, with frequent skirmishes: but they I'l orderl- assault at one and the same time with his whole forces to all the four buiworks h ch the besieged interpreted to be done by the enemy as their last essay, with c. 106 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Wherefore worthily outdoing themselves and the opinion which was held of their forces; they repuls'd the Turks that day every where, and slew very many of them. Whereat Mustafa being much incens'd and beginning almost to despair of getting the City, as he thought he might easily have done, he ceased not continually to solicite the souldiers, that they would once more be brought to give another assault; sometimes reproaching them of cowardise, sometimes promising largely to reward their valour. " And what is it, said he, " that can infuse courage into you, if that now that you do so far exceed the enemy, both for " number and military discipline, who are but a few, and those fresh souldiers, and un- " experienced in arms, you cannot so much as abide their looks, whom you have suffered to " baffle you so ignominiously, being strucken rather with a panick fear, then with any danger? " If the hopes of prey provided for you, by the plunder of so opulent a City, if the desire of " glory, in having by your valour won so noble a kingdom to the OttamAN Empire, be not "able to excite in you that fortitude and generosity which is alwaies wont to accompany those " who fight under the prosperous ensigns of the Ottaman Empire ; you must never think " hereafter of any military action : for no commander will dare to confide the honour of the " Grand, and alwaies invincible Signor, under his guidance, that grand Signor, whose " perpetuall felicity, ordain'd to him by heaven, you seem not to know, by believing that any "nation is able long to resist his forces. Be sure, unlesse you will resist your selves, the " enemy must soon yield unto your Prowess, and to your Prince's fortune, who having a just " regard to gallant actions, doth largely impart rewards unto his souldiers, so as there is no " degree of honour, to which each of you may not by his own worth be brought ; to whom "alone all the wealth and honour of the Ottaman Empire is reserved; which are disposed " of in other dominions more according to favour, oft-times purchast without any merit, or " according to the vain name of nobility, than by true and peculiar worth : whereas there is " not any one of you, who may not hope for the highest honours of the militia, to which the " way lies open, and whereunto you are particularly by this occasion invited." Which words the Bashaw being willing to confirm by more expresse promises, he made it to be proclaimed throughout the whole army, that the first three who should mount the walls of the City, should be made Sanjaqs ; and in case any Bashaw should dye, he who should first enter the City should succeed to that dignitie. The souldiers being thus encouraged, order was given for an assault the next morning, wherein the Turks, before sunrising, approached quietly to those very bulworks which they had before attempted, hoping the more unexpectedly they should fall upon the enemy, the more easily they should get the victory ; and so it fell out. For finding those who were upon the guard of the bulwork Costanzo, fast asleep, they overcame the greatest diflficulties without any dispute, and getting upon the parapets, did not afford them time to defend themselves; nay being amazed between sleep and fear, they <;ould not get, time enough, into their inward works. The opinion of the coming of the expected succour had wrought so much with our men, as they thought the noise which was made the preceding night by the Turks, standing to their arms, was an assured token of the raising of the siege; so as in that respect, and because they were almost quite spent with watching and labour, they had the more securely betaken themselves to their rest. The Turks entring promiscuously in this confusion with our men into the inner-most works, it caused such noise and terrour, as many began to run away. Count Rocas was lodged a little way distant from the bulwork, who learning what had happened, more by the noise and tumult, than by any certain information, put on his arms wherein he spent some time ; and coming to the place of conflict, found all things in such disorder, as, though he kept his own men from running, yet could he not bring safety to what was already almost in dispair, for PAIIUTA. 107 being shot by a musket in the head, all the rest, who through hopes in him, had with much difficulty, and upon great disadvantage, disputed the businesse as yet, quitted the defence of the walls and ranne every one to their own houses, hoping to provide for their wives safety. So as though Pietro Pisani, a counsellor, and Bernardino Polani came quickly thither, they in vain used their authority and example to stay the people, who were already in disorder and much confusion ; amongst which, whilst Polani mixt himselfe, and did by force slay some of them, he together witli them was cut in pieces. But Pisani retreated with the rest to the Piazza, whither people came from all parts to save themselves, and were not as yet pursued by the Turks; for minding onely the making of themselves masters of the walls, after they had driven the first from the bulwork Constanzo, they went presently to the other bulworks, where the enemy were valiantly fought with, but especially by the Italian foot. But in fine finding their inworks lost and that they were at the same time fought with, both before and behind, not being able to make any longer resistance, they quitted the walls, and betook themselves all to make good the Piazza, which they did for a while against the assailants, till the Bashaw of Aleppo came in, who entring the town by the bulwork Tripoli, hasted first about the walls, killing many that were tarried behind ; though thro^ving down their arms, they in vain indeavoured pardon. And ha\4ng routed some armed companies upon the bulwork Barljaro, who had been got together by Jovanni Faliero a noble Venetian, and one that being but a private merchant in the City, had upon severall occasions given good testimony of his valour; and meeting with nothing to withstand him any where else, he came to the Piazza, where finding so many in arms, as they made stout resistance : he presently made three pieces of artillery be Ijrought from off the walls, wherewith he dis- ordered, and sorely indammaged those squadrons which defended the Piazza, and forced them to forsake it, many of them withdrawing themselves into the courts of the palace, whither the lieutenant, the bishop Contarini, and divers others of the chiefe of the City, were first come. And those that could not get in, being scattered up and down, and not having any defence, were either slain, or taken prisoners : but soon after, he made sign of parley to those that were within the court, and sent to the lieutenant a certain Cyprian fryer, to treat with him, who liaving yielded a little before, was received upon his parole. This man having in the Bashaw's name promis'd life unto them all, was immediately sent back \vith Tutio Costanza, who in the lieutenant's name said they would surrender. By whose order they having all forthwith laid down their arms, it fell miserably out, that at the opening of the gates the Turks, who were thronging round about, entred violently into the court, and cruelly put all those unarmed people to the sword : wherein the lieutenant, the bishop, and all the other eminent personages, ranne the same fortune as did the souldiers, and the meanest men. After which, the 'i'urks ran without any order or discipline all over the City, plundering the houses, destroying the churches, dishonouring matrons, violating virgins, and putting all to the sword, without any distinction either of sex, age, or condition. So as the Turks slew that day above 20,000 persons; and those whose lives were spared by the cruell enemy, rather for their greater punishment, than out of any charity, were tyed in chains, drag'd over the dead carkasses of their parents and friends, and carried away prisoners. Thus that City, which for many years had lived in great pomp and splendour, and in great abundance of all things, did in one day undergo all the extreams of calamity ; affording by this so horrible spectacle a new example of variety of humane affairs. This sacking hapened on the ninth of September, the fourteenth day after the Turkish army was incamp'd before the City. The booty which was exported by the enemy and sent to Constantinople, to be presented to the grand Signor, and to the Bashaws, was very great and rich; yet did they not go away 14—2 108 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. wholly triumphant, for a ship which was loaded with many of the most precious things, and with the better sort of prisoners, was not got far from the island, when the ammunition falling on fire, it utterly perished, and all that was within it. The Siege of Famagusta. The city of Nicossia being taken and sacked, Mustafa, leaving four thousand foot-soldiers for its defence, sent the ai'my towards Famagosta ; for after the fall of Nicosia the Turks easily and with no further resistance made themselves masters of the whole of the rest of the island, because the other places which were weak and without men to defend them followed the fortunes of the conquerors, and surrendered at once. Cerines made no more delay or difficulty than the rest, although the Commandant, Giovan-Maria Mudazzo, and Captain Alfonso Palazzo had just before, following the advice and prayers of the garrison of Famagosta, declared their intention of holding out as long as they could. The mountain- folk did the same. There came at once to find Mustafa and to swear obedience to him Scipione Caralfa, Paolo Singlitico and other nobles, accompanied by many Greek priests and a great troop of peasants, so that throughout the kingdom all that remained faithful to the Signory of Venice was the one city of Famagosta. Mustafa led his army thitherwards, and pitched his camp in the village of Pomodamo, three miles from the city, and every day caused many Turks to ride to and fro in sight of those within, carrying on lances the heads of divers notable persons killed in Nicosia, to terrify the soldiers, and to shake their determination to await an attack and to stand a siege. Next he moved up a little towards the city, making trenches with baskets full of sand, because the earth there was little fit for the work. But the garrison made vigorous sallies to skirmish with the enemy, and harassed them to that extent that twice they drove them from their trenches. Moreover with the guns of the fortress they destroyed , three forts which the Turks had raised with great speed in suitable positions, to wit, at S. George, at Precipole and at the Torre dell' Oca. As it turned out, no small hurt was caused thereby to the besieged, because in a very few days their aminunition was greatly diminished, no less than 50,000 lbs. of powder being consumed. But winter was coming on which would hinder the siege, already seen to be a long and difficult matter, and part of the host was to be employed to man the galleys, on account of the news received of the junction of the Christian fleets, so Mustafa, who was little anxious to try another fall with Fortune, in which he might impair the glory won at Nicossia, kept treating in various ways with the inhabitants to persuade them to come to some agreement. Thus he allowed Giovanni Sosomeno, who had been taken prisoner at Nicossia, to enter the city, under pretence of collecting money for his ransom, and to urge them much to surrender. He was to say to the Governors and Captains that as they did not wish of themselves to decide on giving up the city to him, they ought, while the thing was still practicable, to write to the Signoiy of Venice, to show them how matters stood, how difficult it was for them to withstand so huge a host, and to be content to use the opportunity, yielding what they could in no wise keep, and so to arrange with the Grand Signer to preserve their dominions. After the same manner Mustafa caused certain letters to be written, as though they came from the Chiefs in Famagosta, and to make them fall into the hands of the ambassador at Constantinople. But the Chiefs and people of Famagosta were staunch in their resolve to defend themselves to the end. They lent no ear to these arguments, and instead of begging the Senate to surrender the city, they resolved urgently to demand aid for its defence; and that the state of things, and their immediate wants. PARUTA. 109 might be better understood, to despatcli to Venice Messer Niccolo Donato, who had been sent on a mission to the island, and was still with his two galleys in the harbour of Famagosta; with whom there reached Venice Monsignor (iirolamo Ragazzoni, Bishop of the city, a man fully acquainted with the position, and admirably adapted for this duty. The city of Famagosta is situated at the East end of the Island of Cyprus on a low shore close to the sea, whence it had its Greek name Amathus which means hidden in the mud. It stands almost in the centre of a semicircle formed by two promontories, Cai-pasio and Pedaglio, called by men of our day the one Cape Sant' Andrea, the other Cape della Grecia. The former runs out for a distance of over ninety miles, and breaking the circle, makes an end to the island towards the north in a very sharp point. This tract was of old called Salaminia from the ancient city of Salamina, built by Tencer after the fall of Troy, and afterwards Costanza. Some traces of this remain, and, perhaps to mark the former glory of their city, they are still called by the natives " Old Famagosta." The city has a harbour, lying between east and north, formed by certain shoals and rocks, broken here and there by narrow channels, which catch the first force of the waves, and guard from storms the little bay which lies between them and the shore ; but the depth of this is but small, so that few vessels of any size can anchor in it. The entrance faces north, and is closed with a chain attached to a spur of rock which juts out some forty paces from the fortress; while a small castle, with four towers of antique style, commands the harbour. The lines of the fortifica- tions form an imperfect square, for they run from the seashore from west to north in zigzags, and enclose a gradually widening space, so that the sides are to some extent unequal : two of them face the sea, and two the land : in one of the latter was a small hexagonal tower called Diainantino, in which was the so-called Limisso gate. In the other is a bastion of great size built a few years before the siege, with double flanks, a broad front and orillons, arranged for a modern battery. Tlie circuit of the fortress was rather more than two Italian miles, the whole enclosed by an excellent wall of squared stone {tufo or tufa). On the land side it was twenty feet thick, with a platform of twelve paces, above which rose a parapet over four feet in height : the ditch on every side was fifteen or at least twelve paces broad, chiefly cut out of the rock, but where this broke off, a counterscarp was built of stone. Set about the walls were many towers, but most of them so small that they allowed room for small pieces of artillery only: a few of larger capacity between the Limisso gate and the Arsenal, called from their shape demi-lunes, were in many respects equally defective, but were considered stronger and more useful because they were vaulted, and allowed means of exit on either side. The country round the fortress is all perfectly fiat, only on the northwest and north a few villages are built on ground which rises into something like low hills, little more than a mile from the city. There was an impression that the enemy would encamp in this direction, both because the fort was weaker on that side, and also because there were caves, whence the people of Famagosta used to dig stone for their buildings, within which a large number of men nu'ght be safely and conveniently lodged. But the Turks were aware that, according to their fashion of camping, the ground would not suit them, because of the rocks which lay all about, and spread out their whole force along the shore on the other side, where it stretches for three miles from the city to the sea. This part had been full of beautiful gardens of oranges, lemons and numy other kinds of fruitbearing trees, but most of them had been already cut down by the inhabitants themselves, to leave nothing which might be of profit to the enemy: the Turks however had the use of the numy wells winch sfored for the gardens abundance of exquisitely clear and cold water, most refreshing to troops relaxed and overcome by the intense heat of the country. 110 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. The Turks had somewhat slackened their efforts, and retired to pass the winter, which was unusually severe, on a site more convenient and farther from the city. But as soon as the season allowed of safe navigation, and the renewal of warlike operations, an immense quantity of men, ammunition and provisions began to pour into the camp, brought by galleys and vessels of every kind. They arrived from every quarter, particularly from the neighbouring shores of Caramania and Syria. So great was men's eagerness to take part in the enterprise that report said that after the fall of Nicosia more than fifty thousand Turks came over to Cyprus. Many of them were neither enlisted nor paid, but came attracted purely by the hope of booty, for the Pasha had set afloat a cunning rumour that the spoils of Famagosta would exceed those of Nicosia. The boasting humour of the Turks magnified the size of the attacking force, and by means of certain citizens who had come out to treat for the ransom of prisoners sent threatening messages to the besieged that the Grand Signor had sent so vast a host that if every man of them had thrown a slipper into the ditches of the fortress they would have filled them up, and made a platform reaching to the top of the walls. When the army was thus reinforced and supplied with necessaries some larger pieces of artillery were brought from Nicosia, and about the middle of April began to work at the trenches, to move up to the city, and to build various forts. These works required incredible labour and wonderful industry. From the winter camp to the city, a distance of three miles, they dug out the earth, and where they came on the rock pierced it with picks and chisels, until they had made roads so wide and deep that not only infantry, but even mounted men, could travel along them under cover, as it were, for scarcely the points of their lances could be seen above ground : and between these roads, working at night when they were safe from the guns of the fortress, they cut many trenches, throwing up the earth in front of them to such a height that they could work behind it during the day without fear, and complete their plan. The pioneers threw the earth they dug out as far as they could in front of them, so that between the trench and the mound there remained a platform on which the soldiers could stand, while the earth heaped up in front of them served as a parapet behind which they could in all safety aim their musket shots at the walls, and the ditches and shelters were so many, and so well arranged, that the whole army could be drawn up within, and though quite close to the city, every man would be under cover, buried as it were, out of sight among these mounds of earth, and anyone standing on the city walls would see nothing of the attacking foi'ce but the tops of their tents. On the same plain the Turks built ten forts at varying intervals ; the face of each was fifty feet broad, and strengthened with beams of oak, interlocked with remarkable skill, and so solid that, when the space within was filled with earth, trusses, Syrian ash, bales of cotton and the like, the forts could offer a lively resistance to every kind of attack : and even were they partly damaged by the guns of the city, so large was the force of pioneers that they could with great speed be restored to their original strength. Thus the walls for more than five hundred paces, that is to say, the whole distance from the Arsenal to the Limisso gate, were continually and violently battered by shot. Such were the forces, the preparations and the plans of the enemy. The besieged on the other hand, both soldiers and citizens, excited by them to greater industry and vigilance, and spurred on by their own courage and the greatness of the peril, left nothing undone to strengthen their defences. And from the very first, although their small numbers did not allow them to meet their assailants on equal terms, they tried incessantly by sallies and skirmishes to harass the Turks while at work on their trenches, to show their own courage and spirit, and to shake the confidence and boldness of the enemy. With anxious cai-e they PARUTA. Ill devoted themselves to strengthening the parapets, preparing shelters, making new platforms and repairing the old. They threw all their strength and skill into their work : every hour had its toil, every day showed new improvements, new designs. They kept reinforcing their batteries with new guns cast on the spot, and the whole was transported to that part of the walls where they expected the attack. This was the special charge of Luigi Martinengo, Captain General of the artillery, under whom were six other chiefs in command of the force of Bombardiers: the order throughout being perfect. They prepared also fireworks to be used in various ways. The makers were skilled in these devices, which did good service. That they might not have to contend at the same time with the enemy and with incon- veniences within, they expelled from the city all the useless mouths, perhaps eight thousand in all, who went to the villages without interference from the Turks. They next took a census of those who remained within the walls and found seven thousand ablebodied men, viz. three thousand five hundred Italian infantry, the rest being Greeks enrolled for service, some from the town, some from the country, men who earned in the siege an honourable name for loyalty and courage. The hope of fame and of ample reward was always present to inspirit them in their defence. Marc' Antonio Bragadino, the Captain or Governor General of Fama- gosta, using great and praiseworthy diligence in this as in every other matter. Seeing the danger increase as the enemy drew nearer to the walls, Bragadino endeavoured with spirited speeches to establish the courage of the besieged, showing them that the time was come for them to make signal proof of that true valour to which for months past he had seen them inclined. No glory that warriors had earned in our age was greater than that which was reserved for them, in defending against the might of the Ottoman Empire a fortress so far from other Christian lands, and in preserving with it a Hourishing kingdom from enslavement by barbarians. Addressing himself to the Italian troops, he said — •" Wliy, my brave comrades, have you come here from a far distant country, exposing yourselves to certain hardships and great danger in so long a voyage, if not to give fitting proof of your courage, and by surpassing merit to earn the supreme honours of warfare. Now indeed the very chance which you have so eagerly desired is put before you. Your endurance, your diligence, in short all the martial virtues have here the widest and noblest field : for this city is assailed and encom- passed by foes of great repute, and the result of this siege is watched throughout the world with the greatest anxiety. But my confidence in you, citizens and others who are enrolled among our troops, is no less great ; for you have given clear proof not only of loyalty and constancy, but of true courage, in performing with the zeal and skill of tried soldiers all your militai-y duties. Your generous hearts will never allow that in the defence of what is your own, your wives, your children, your goods, others shall take the lead. With noble emulation each man will seek to have a larger share in the toil, to be the first to expose himself to peril. Do not let the enemy's nuinbers frighten you for a moment. They are certainly less than what we hear by report, or than what is indicated by a pompous array of empty tents. Most of them, or at least the bravest of them, are exhausted by toil, or have returned home to enjoy the riches acquired in the siege of Nicossia. What happened in that city should wake in you vigilance rather than alarm, for we know certainly that it was not the valour or industry of the enemy which gave them the victory, but the negligence of the besieged, who appear to have thought that walls alone, not the stout hearts of men, are the bulwarks of cities. The hope of the succour which we expect at once might give courage even to cowards, yet I would not have one of you fix your thoughts on this, lest it should detract from your daring somewhat of praise, for it is ou yourselves that each man must 112 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. found his hopes, believing that he carries his fortune in his own right hand. This is the part of men truly strong and brave. Inniimerable are the examples which show us how valour and firmness have overcome difficulties which looked insuperable. But besides the confidence which rests on mere human resolve, we have a greater, a livelier hope of deliver- ance and victory, in that we are defending a just and pious cause against impious and treacherous foes, to whom God's providence has so far allowed some measure of success, so that with a change in the fortune of war their fall may be the greater. We have then every argument, human and divine, to persuade us to drive fear from our breasts, and to hope for a good and prosperous issue to our efforts." Loud and cheery shouts from all present greeted these words : everyone wished to show his own stedfastness, and to encourage the rest to bear readily the toils and perils before them. The Captains then, to inflame the troops by example as well as by words, made the best possible distribution of the posts, and determined to have their own quarters on the ramparts, just below the platform, so as to be ready at any moment for a call to arms, and to share in the daily work and risk. May was nearly half passed, the preparations were everywhere complete, and the spirits of the soldiers, countrymen and townsmen alike, were wonderfully ready to make or take the attack, when one morning at sunrise they saw from the walls all the enemy's forts and trenches full of innumerable flags and lances, and heard a roar of men and of drums and other instruments. A little later the Turks began a furious discharge of muskets and cannon, which they kept up throughout the day, hoping that their fury would inspire their own troops with courage, and ours with fear. From the first the plan of the enemy was to break down the city's defences : their shots were aimed at the parapets, but the besieged with wonderful speed repaired and strengthened them, using earth wetted and stamped into boxes and casks, with excellent results. Gradually however the Turks took lower aim, and did great damage to the walls. It became necessary to carry into the city by night the stones dislodged during the day, a work of incredible toil, but which was kept up until the Turks entered the fosse. For they had already driven their trenches up to the counterscarp, and while they threw earth into the ditch in front of them on one side, and on the other from a small platform, they pierced the wall of the counterscarp, and made a safe entrance into the ditch, and right up to the walls, keeping out of reach of the cannon of the demi-lunes, which fired sideways, and exposed only to the slighter fire of the platforms. In the city powder was beginning to fall short, and had to be used with care, so that the gunners were forbidden to fire without express orders from their commanders, and these were only given when absolutely necessary. The chief means of harassing the enemy lay in the fireworks, which were hurled down on them from the walls, throwing them into disorder and killing many. Iron balls too were used, full of very fine powder, which burst and killed many persons at once. Yet all these devices could not keep the enemy away from the walls, which they began to undermine in several places, especially near the Arsenal. Some of these mines were discovered by the besieged : the powder supplied their needs most opportunely, and what was laid for their ruin helped their defence. But the Turks had already posted large bodies of men in the ditch, where they -were lodged comfortably in their tents, secured from attack by the vigilant watch of those who manned the nearest trenches, who were so careful to observe the slightest movement of any of our soldiers, that not a man could appear on the walls but he was immediately marked down and killed by a musket ball. They did not neglect their mines, one of which under the demi-lune of the Arsenal did fatal damage, while it showed signallj^ the steadiness of our soldiers, or rather their pitiable situation. PARUTA. 113 'I'hey had seen the mine dug, and the sacks of powder lodged in it, yet they kept their accustomed guard over the place, expecting from hour to hour to be blown into the air, and torn into a thousand pieces by the explosion ; and thus it befell a company which had only just relieved the guard at that point. The roar was terrible, so solid was the wall, and so gi-eat the quantity of powder, and the city was shaken as by an earthquake. The Turks charged at once over the ruins made by the explosion, and joined battle, which raged for more than five hours with great fierceness, fresh reinforcements constantly coming up on both sides. So great was the eagerness of our soldiers to close with the enemy, and not to fall without giving some proof of their courage, or taking some vengeance on the foe, that every point of danger was hotly disputed. Everyone tried to be in the midst of eveiy impcu-tant engagement, of every attack. The very women, vying with the men in manly valour, kept coming up to the w^alls, and bringing necessaries to the soldiers. In this skirmish we lost over one hundred and sixty men, and among them Bernardino da Ugubio, who had performed many feats of daring, while Pietro Conte, P]rcole Malatesta and other brave commanders were wounded and maimed. The besieged retired from the place whicli the mine had breached. Their shelters were constructed with great skill, but were too cramped to be of much use, and the soldiers were greatly straitened in their movements by having to stand upon plank bridges. Here especial praise is due to the engineer Mormori, and Marco Crivellatore, a Venetian, Captain of Infantry, after whose plans were set up two rows of Candiot casks, full of earth, one close to the other, and on them two more rows of sacks full of moistened earth, well stamped down : between these were proper spaces, and the whole work formed a kind of parapet behind which the musketeers could fire in perfect security. It proved of the greatest ser\-ice to our men : for the cannon shots struck nothing solid or continuous, and if a sack were carried away, this was all the damage done, and the vacant space could immediately and easily be filled by another. This expedient, and the singular courage of our men, kept the enemy long at bay : their assaults were frequently repulsed, and they began to despair of so taking the city. They betook themselves to new expedients, and began to build forts nearer the walls, from which they could the easier destroy the shelters and platforms, and so annihilate our last line of defence and their last obstacle. Meanwhile they kept up an incessant fin; from mortars (a kind of cannon of very large calibre, now oldfashioned), tin-owing into the city itself balls of enormous weight, which fell on the houses, destroyed the roofs and killed the inmates. They shot off also a very shower of arrows, aiming high, so that the weapons fell perpendicularly on the. heads of those who .stood within and near the walls. They kept sounding an alarm, especially at night time, as though they were coming to the attack, and in short never left to the besieged an hour's rest, with the object of weakening their bodies and crushing their spirits with labour, danger and sleeplessness. Finally, when they saw that the danuige done by the mines was not enough to open a safe and easy way for their attacks, they set to work with spades and pickaxes to pull down the walls, and to curtail, to the sorest inconvenience of the besieged, the space, already too narrow, on which they could work. When the Turks had carried their works so far that they could easily cross the wall at several points, their commanders decided that they ought to make one supreme effort, and at the same moment to attack the besieged at different places, on the ground that being few, and engaged on different guards, they could not long sustain the fury of the assault. Mustafa made his preparations with the greatest care, and tried to be present himself at them all. He went about trying to encourage his soldiers, addressing by name those already distinguished 15 c. 114 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. for courage, and recalling their brave exploits, and the praise and booty which had rewarded them, pointed out what hopes were theirs of still greater things. Here he threatened the most terrible punishments for cowardice : there he promised the highest honours and prizes for valour : he pictured to them the booty and spoils, reminded them of the whole regiments enriched by the sack of Nicosia, and prayed and implored them to bring no shame on troops so lately victorious, to feel no fear before the arms of men to whom they had always been a terror. He reminded them of their successes at Nicosia, and showed them that with equal ease, though with richer fruit, they could achieve another glorious victory, and end the war. Their opponents were the same men, unwarlike or untried : they too were the same, rich in memories of old prowess which had won them the glorious title of conquerors of the earth. No enterprise on which they had embarked but had been crowned with success; from them the world had leai'ned that the fortune of war bows to valour in arms. With these and like words the Pasha greatly cheered the troops, and then prepared to assist in person at the assault. He wished to see what was doing, and to be seen by his men : to help them with his counsel, and encourage them with his presence. The attack was truly terrible. The Turks fought stoutly, inflamed by the certain hope of that day gaining the city. Our men kept well together, and held their ground with desperate courage. The enemy might enter their defences, but could not drive 6ut the defenders, as fast as the Turks approached they were scattered, killed, hurled back : and blows which fell on so dense a crowd never fell in vain. This third attack continued for five hours, and was most bravely met. But the soldiers who were set to defend the ravelin at the Limisso gate were thrown into disorder by the enemy's fireworks, and were unable to manoeuvre in the small space they could command, so that when at the other points assailed by the enemy the battle was well nigh done, they were still engaged, and suffering very severe losses. They gave way at last, and allowed the Turks to scale the ravelin, and then, every other resource failing them, the commanders took the terrible and fatal, though necessary, resolve at once to fire a mine which they had prepared against this last dread emergency. On the ravelin stood crowded together soldiers from the enemy's camp and from the city, those charging, these retreating, and in a moment foes and friends wei'e covered with the ruins, " in one red burial blent." The ravelin lost, there remained between besiegers and besieged only the breadth of the second line of defence, constructed, as we said, of casks and sacks full of earth. The men on either side often talked together and, as soldiers use, flouted one another, the Turks deriding the vain hopes of our men, and telling them that the Christian fleets had by this time fled as far as Venice. Ours, in turn, mocked the enemy who, more like peasants than warriors, trusted so little in their arms that they used spades and shovels. With this raillery Avas mingled more serious discourse, for the Turks, through some slaves, made proposals for a truce. They had before made many attempts of the same kind by letters addressed sometimes to the chiefs, sometimes to the people of the city, which they sent in upon arrows ; but no reply was given to them, nor would the besieged ever agree to parley, and when they found the treacherous devices with which, under the guise of good faith, they threatened our people fail, they betook themselves again to arms, and prepared another attack from the ravelin which was now in their hands. Another engagement followed, in which both sides fought desperately. But the greater glory remained with the besieged, especially with their commanders. Baglione himself, full of daring and more by example than by words, urged his soldiers to fight, and always among the first he pressed on so far that with his own hands he tore from a Turkish standard-bearer a flag, taken in the siege of Nicosia, on which were blazoned the arms of Venice. Luigi Martinengo, who was especially charged with the PARUTA. 115 defence of that post, kept renewing the fight with fresh soldiers, relieved the weary, kept the enemy at bay where they were most active, hurled back those who began to give way, and showed himself everywhere a wise and brave commander. The Turks, thus repulsed, to leave nothing untried, devised yet a new way to harass our men, whose troubles and difficulties were already unbearable. They filled the whole space between the gate and the ravelin with firewood and fascines, and set the stuff on fire, throwing also into the midst various compounds to increase the blaze. Our soldiers were sorely tormented with the heat, and with the stench of a certain wood grown in the island, called by the peasants tezza, which gives out a strong and most unpleasant odour. This fire lasted for many days, until the defenders, who had tried in every way to extinguish it, could hardly remain on the spot. Yet, in spite of all, these brave fellows persisted in the defence. So keen was their daring, and so determined their resolve to hold out to the end that even old men and women defied the natural weakness of age and sex, and kept their posts on the walls, performing all the duties of soldiers. But things had come to such a pass that toils endured and perils braved were all in vain. The strength of the enemy outside kept increasing, new reinforcements of men and munitions came up daily, while within men, munitions and victuals were daily failing. A large inimber of the bravest soldiers had died at their posts; the wounded lay almost abandoned for want of doctors and drugs. The few who were still sound were worn out by fatigue and hardship; they were eating the flesh of asses, horses, dogs, and such like nauseous food : wine and viiiegar had failed entirely, and they had water only to drink, so that they were reduced to such a pitch of weakness that it was a brave spirit rather than strength of body which kept them alive. The citizens were now fully aware that the place could not possibly hold out much longer, and resolved to beg the civil and military chiefs to provide, before the end came, for their safety. Matteo (xolfi was their spokesman. He dwelt on the loyalty and constancy of the inhabitants, o\\ the dangers and hardships which so far they had borne with signal patience, and in the name of the whole city implored the magistrates that, now that they saw the desperate state of affairs, they would not allow the total ruin of their country to be a miserable memorial to mark the loyalty of the people of Fanuigusta. Its salvation should be the reward of their deserts. To the double glory of the defenders it should be made manifest that their generous spirits, wliicii no feai- of tlu- enemy could tame, had stooped to the love of friends, and to the wish to secure to tliem, not indeed the lot they could have wished, but at least all that fortune woukl grant. He urged that, if there were but a gleam of hope, the readiness and bravery which had been .shown hitherto would not even yet fail. If they could with tluMr blood ransom their fatherland from the heavy and cruel yoke of these barbarian unbelievers, and preserve it under the just and mild government of Venice, not a man would shrink. What inspired their request was certainly not the fear of death, a matter lightly esteemed of men who had lost so many relations and friends, all indeed that was dear to them, and to whom life could no longer offer any pleasure: rather was it the anxious prescience that they might remain alive to see still heavier and longer troubles, their country enslaved, tlunnselves and their children in bonds, and their everlasting salvation imperilled. They asked them in all humility, in all affection, in the name of their most loyal city, that the authorities would ccmsent to treat with the enemy, a course the Turks themselves were daily proposing, and under honourable conditions endeavour to preserve what might yet perhaps be left of so great and noble a kingdom. Having lu>av.l the pray(>r of the pcple, the magistrates and principal commanders 15—2 116 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. debated among themselves what should be done. Opinions were divided. One of them stoutly insisted that " they ought to die with their arms in their hands, to make one great sally by night, to fall on the Turks unawares and, dying, to avenge their own death by the blood of the foe. Death in any case, so slippery was the enemy's faith, would be equally certain, but not equally glorious. No argument would persuade him that the Turks would keep the faith they plighted. To some understanding they were driven by need, not by their will. Yet it might befall that in making one they might in a measure tarnish or impair the fame and glory won by such heroic toil." On the other side there were those who said that it was unbefitting officers who had been appointed to guai-d the city, and to govern its inhabitants for their safety and welfare, to show themselves more ruthless than their very enemies. It was perfectly clear that the Turkish commanders were moved at this juncture to propose a truce solely by a desire to save the city from rapine, and the citizens from slaughter, fearing that if they took it by violence, they would be impotent to restrain the fury of their troops. Again, it was the duty of brave men not to allow themselves to be forced to acts of cowardice, or failure of duty, by the fear of death ; but to wish uselessly to throw away their lives was to show mad obstinacy rather than true valour. What they had done in the defence of the fortress was so notable, so plain, that none but those who envied them would dare to reflect on their courage. Where glory is greatest, its spur is most sharply felt : but virtue has this privilege, to be its own reward. The soldiers had satisfied every call of duty, for up to the very last they had preserved to their Prince his stronghold. Now what could their chiefs do more for them than to save for other emergencies men, every one of whom his suffering and experience had made a brave and capable leader. They must not in this case fear so much for the observance of the truce, for they had often seen, in the capture of Rhodes, and in various engagements in Hungary, that the Turks, barbarians though they were, were used to honour even in their enemies valour in war. These arguments prevailed at last, and after long debate it was resolved to capitulate upon honourable conditions. On the first of August, after much parleying, in which an Italian standard-bearer, a prisoner in the Turkish camp, was the intermediary, it was decided that, after we had first sent our hostages, two leading officers from the camp should enter the city to treat about the details of the truce, and of the surrender. Meanwhile hostilities were to be suspended on both sides. Sundry white flags were hoisted both within and without the city in sign of truce, and on the following day two Kiaya (a kind of master of the house- hold among the Turks), the one of Mustafa Pasha, the other of the Agha of the Janissaries, entered the city on horseback, and with them six Janissaries only on foot, all splendidly armed and clothed. From our side there went out Ercole Martinengo, and Matteo Colti, a citizen of Famagusta, attended by four soldiers. Immediately outside the city they were met by a son of Mustafa, with a large escort of soldiers mounted and on foot, who conducted them into his father's presence. Mustafa Pasha welcomed them with, ceremonious speeches, presented to them two robes of gold brocade, and sent them to lodge in the pavilion of the Agha of the Janissaries. But it is worthy of remark that these men, who had borne so many hardships, and despaired, as it were, of safety, and who should now have been consoled by seeing the end of so great troubles, showed in their looks and words only the deepest sadness, as though their minds pictured to them calamities yet to come. The officers who came to discuss the conditions showed themselves most ready to concede all our proposals. These were, shortly, that the soldiers should be transported safely on Turkish vessels to the island of Candia, with permission to carry with them their arms, and PARUTA. 117 all their property; five pieces of artillery and three horses belonging to the three chief commanders were specially named. That all the inhabitants should in like manner be free to move with their families and property whither they would, but those who remained should be safe in their persons, their property and their honour from the insolence of the troops. Thus in a single day the conditions of surrender were discussed, arranged and ratified. The Turks appeared to wish to carry them out quickly and strictly, and sent at once into the harbour about forty vessels, upon which the sick and wounded were first embarked, while the able-bodied soldiers kept their posts on the second line of defence, and allowed the Turks to make no forward movement. But as soon as our men got beyond the trenches, and saw, and were seen by, the enemy's host, it would be difficult to describe the wonder begotten by causes altogether different in one and the other army. Our men were staggered at the prodigious number of the force they saw in the Turkish camp. For over three miles from the city it stretched over a vast circuit, and was everj^where so full of troops that the turbans, which on every side showed white above the trenches, covered the ground like snow-flakes. The Turks, on the other hand, w^hen they saw the defending force so small ill iiunibors, the emaciated bodies and pale faces of our soldiers, who seemed as though they could hai-dly stand, much less offer so long and gallant a resistance to a foe, marvelled at their courage, and felt some touch of shame. They let natural pity, and the generous workings of true cou)-age, have their way ; they Vx-gan to offer them refreshments, to speak courteously, to praise their steadfastness, and to encourage them to hope for the best. Meanwhile the Greeks and Albanians were ready to embark with their families, and other detachments of soldiers were already on board other vessels, so that on the fourth of August the city was left free to the Turks. As soon as they entered they l)egan to use all kinds of violence towards the citizens. Bragadino informed Mustafa of this, and complained, and prayed that he would show that he observed the conditions, and respected his plighted faith, by putting some clieck on the insolence of his soldiery. He begged that more ships might be sent to take the rest of the people, and promised that he would then come himself to bring him the keys of the city. This message was entrusted to Nestore Martinengo, a y(nith of great spirit, who from the beginning of the war had served in Famagusta under the banner of his uncle (Jirolamo Martinengo, and had been employed on various duties, alwaj-s earning high praise for his intelligence and courage. He went to the Pasha, and obtained forthwith an order to the soldiers who had entered the city to abstain from all violence, and a pi-omise that two other vessels should be sent at once into the harbour to embark our soldiers. He was desired to tell liragadino that Mustafa would be glad to see him: he wished to know in person and face to face a num of whose great worth he had had such proof, and to whose valour he would everywhere warmly testify. Without fui-ther delay, on the evening of the same day, leaving Tiepolo in the city, all the other principal officers, to wit, Bragadino, Baglione, Martinengo and Antonio Quirini, a noble Venetian, accompanied by other captains and a few Greek gentlemen, went out on horseback, attended by foi-ty nuisketeers on foot. The General Bragadino rode in front of the rest under a red umbrella, dressed in purple with the ordinary robes of his office, and followed by the others named. When they arrived at the pavilion of the Pasha they were received with great ceremony, and, their arms being laid aside, they were introduced into the presence of Mustafa. He conversed with them for some time on various matters, dis- sembling his iinnost thouglits. But at last, trying to find some pretext for giving effect to the savagery which his fierce spirit had conceived, he required some guarantee that the vessels which he ii-nt tlicni would be sent back. Bragadino replied that he was not bound 118 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. to this under the capitulation, nor had he officers whom he could leave behind whom Mustafa would accept as hostages. Mustafa pointed to Quirini, and added that he must remain in the camp. The person of this youth declared his courage and noble birth. This, and the fact that he was the son of Niccolo Quirini, who had been in charge of the fortifications of Nicosia, and had given his family name to one of its bastions, made him conspicuous among his companions, and better known to Mustafa. Bragadino firmly refused of his own free will to give him up. The Pasha could no longer control his passion, and burst into a torrent of abuse, fiercely accusing our men of having put to death certain Musalmans, prisoners in their hands, contrary to the usages of war, and the dictates of humanity. His talk added fuel to his rage, and he ordered them all to be bound. They were led out of the pavilion : he set free the hostages who were still in his camp, and caused Baglione, Martinengo, Quirini and the rest to be hacked in pieces by his soldiers — a pitiful spectacle, and a fate all un- worthy of those brave men, who might have hoped to receive from soldiers, enemies though they were, rewards, not punishment, for valour shown in war. Bragadino was reserved for greater torments. He was obliged to witness this cruelty, and many times to endure the pains of death before he was released from life. For they made him stretch out his neck, but, unwilling to kill him on the spot, merely cut off his ears. Those who were first to embark fared no better than the rest. They were chained, and condemned to suffer in the harshest servitude long and severe hardships. To some fortune was more kind. These from sundry chances were the last to remain in the city, and, becoming the prizes of individual soldiers, were quickly and easily released by their captors for a small ransom, which the Turks feared to lose, for Mustafa had strictly forbidden the holding of private prisoners, as he wished to glorify his triumphant return to Constantinople by the greatest possible number of slaves. Among these Tiepolo only was of too exalted a position to win his safety. He was made a prisoner, and condemned by the Pasha to the disgrace of death by hanging at the yardarm of a galley. But it is a tearful story we have to tell of Bragadino, what manifold forms of martyrdom these cruellest, vilest of men caused him to suffer. After insults and wild mockery he was led into the square of Famagusta, and there bound to the stones of the pillory and flayed alive, while Mustafa stood to the end on a terrace of the palace to feast his eyes and bestial heart on the weird and cruel sight. Incredible was the courage which this bravest of heroes showed in all his terrible torments : a courage which ought to preserve and grace his memory throughout the ages. But the fury of Mustafa's anger was not yet exhausted, and he ordered that the skin should be filled with straw, and set on a cow. In bitter mockery the i-ed umbrella under which the living Bragadino had ridden to the camp was held over it, it was carried through the city, and finally, on his departure, it was hung on the yard of a galley, that he might parade his infamous trophy before the inhabitants of the coast-towns which he passed. The reason which moved Mustafa to this fiendish cruelty is not clear. Some said that as the soldiers had missed the booty promised to them from the sack of the city, he wished by the punishment of a few to avenge the deaths of the many men he had lost in the siege, and give some kind of satisfaction to his army. Others again, that irritated by the length and obstinacy of the defence, and by the loss of certain friends very dear to him, he had already sworn to take some terrible vengeance. But there were yet some who believed that the spirit of Mustafa, a man so given to anger that, once moved, he was wont to grow furious and actually mad, was excited to frenzy and scorn on seeing Bragadino and his companions come to his pavilion with so large an armed escort, and so richly clothed, as though they were rather victors than vanquished. This seems but a trifling excuse for so PARUTA. LUSIGNAN. 119 savage a crime, but the time which he allowed to pass between the first sentence and the later and more cruel tortures lends it some probability. It was mere madness which stirred him to rage even against the dead. He entered the Episcopal Church of S. Niccolo, caused the graves to be opened and the bones scattered. He destroyed the altars and the images of the saints, and committed other bestial and cruel acts for which he was much blamed even by hrs own people. The city thus acquired, order was taken at once carefully to clear the ditches of the ruins of the walls, to raze all the forts, and fill all the trenches outside, and to repair all that had been destroyed within. Thus the fortress was soon restored to its original condition, and made even more secure and defensible than it had been before. Mustafa Pasha put the Bey of Rhodes in charge of the city, and on the twenty-fourth of September left Cyprus, returning victorious and triumphant to Constantinople, where he was received with high honours and universal joy. Yet the victory had cost the Turks dear, for they had lost, so report said, more than fifty thousand men, and among them many commanders of high rank, and their best warriors. LUSIGNAN. Fr. Etienne de Lusignan's description of Nicosia and Famagusta is here translated from his Oiovo- graffia, Bologna, 1573, pp. 11 and 14 — 16. It should be compared with the French version, 4to, Paris, 1580, Description de toute Vile de Cypre...compoHee ijvemerement en Ittdien, et imprimee d Bologne la Grasse, et maintenant augmentee et traduite en Fran^'oig. Letra, an ancient city, but it is not known who first founded it: it was afterwards restored by Leucico or Leuco, son of the first Ptolemy, king of Egypt, who called it Leucoton. This is Nicosia, which is an ancient city, but it is not exactly known who first built it, and when. It is evident that it is ancient, and S. Jerome and Platina and others call it Letra or Leucoton, naming a bishop S. TriffiUus — Triffillus of Letra in Cyprus, Leucoton. The Latins now call it Nicosia, but the Greeks Leucosia : and some say that Leuco and Sia his wife built it, and in olden days traces of it were visible. It was a royal citj^ in the time of the nine contemporarj^ kings, and it had a castle which was in the upper square near the river, where one finds now a Greek church which is called Castegliotissa. This castle was destroyed by the townsfolk, at the time of the engagement with the knights Templar, whom the former would not have to reign in Cyprus; and this was about 1194. And later in the time of the Lusignan kings it was made an archiepiscopal and royal I'esidence, and the capital of the whole island, for the site on which it stands is in the middle of the island, and the middle of the plain ; the air is excellent, the water delicate, the spot pleasantly full of gardens and fruits. Immediately outside it it has two springs, one called Piadia [IlT^ya^ia] and the other Sweet Water, and this one passes through the city, and supplies several fountains in the palaces, the court and the s(iuare and other places, and this water is light and is given just as it is to sick people to drink as much as they will, and it does no harm. And for these reasons the city was in the days of the Lusignan kings much adorned with nobles, palaces and churches, Latin, Greek, Armenian, Coptic, Maronite, Indian, Nestorian, Jacobite, and those of the Iberi or Georgians, 120 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. of which churches we shall speak. The monasteries of monks and nuns of S. Benedict, and S. Bernard, of S. Griuliano (Crosachieri, Croisiers, Porte-croix, who carry always a little silver cross in their hand, and are dressed in blue), of the Certosa, and the four mendicant Orders, the church of the knights of the Temple, and of the knights of S. John and many others. Of the Greeks too very many convents of monks and nuns of S. Basil ; so that the churches in this city amounted to 250 and perhaps 300. This city was great, in circumference three leagues or nine miles. It is true it was not quite full, but it had many gardens and large ones. But in 1567 the Signory of Venice wishing to fortify it reduced it to one league or three miles, and left three gates as it had before, and levelled with the ground the two thirds of the city all round, leaving the third part in the middle. Thus were destroyed very many houses and palaces and eighty churches of all kinds, and they reduced the city to the shape you will see on the opposite page. This city had a citadel which was built by king Jacques I., and in those days when there was no artillery it was strong and well supplied; and within there was nothing but the Royal Court and the Monastery of S. Dominic, and the water flowed round it in the fosses. When the Venetians took the island they destroyed this citadel and the palace and the two drawbridges, and left only the walls, part of which they again pulled down in building the new fortifications. And the palace, which was partly restored by M. Gabriel Cornaro, was again ruined. However one may still see some traces of that citadel. In the same way they destroyed that royal monastery, to which were attached two cloisters full of oranges and paved with fine marbles, and the church adorned with the grand tombs of the Royal House, and other princes and lords, and on its walls and floor with many fine, broad and large marbles. These Kings were buried there, Ughetto, Ugo, Pietrino, Giacomo, Giano, with their wives and sons and daughters : Princes of Galilee, of Antioch : Louis, son of the king of France, Seneschals, Constables, Admirals and Chamberlains of Jerusalem and Cyprus: Counts, Barons and Lords of Thabaria, Thoron, Saetto, Cesarea, Baruti, Tripoli, Zaffo, di Ruchas, and others. Then sixteen Archbishops, Bishops and Patriarchs. Then the dormitories, refectory, hospice, paved with marble : it had too the other offices necessary to such a monastery, for in the time of the kings it held eighty monks. Then it had the chamber of the king on one side, and that of the queen on the other, which they visited often. And there died king John and his wife Helena. Joined to it, or rather enclosed in it, was the Patriarchal residence, which the Patriarchs of Jerusalem who were of this Order built ; but it is now many years since this was destroyed, and by a Patriarch. This is all which was inside the citadel. In the same city they pulled down also another Latin monastery, which was first tenanted by the monks of S. Bernard, afterwards by the Zoccolanti ; so I need not stay to describe it, how fine it was and how solid, when one thinks to what Order it first belonged. They destroyed also another convent of the nuns of S. Thodoro of the same Order; and two belonging to the Greeks, one of monks built by queen Helena, and the other of nuns, the first was called Manchana, the second Palluriotissa. They pulled down too other fine Latin churches and the convent of S. Anna, which was first tenanted by the nuns of S. Benedict, and then abandoned. In all eighty churches, of all sorts and Orders. And they made the city round, as in the plan below, with eleven bastions, all made of mere earth : even when the Turks reached it they were not completely furnished with walls, nor were the fosses made (Fr. V. p. 32 a). The torrent used to pass through the middle of the city, entering it at one point, and leaving it at three (Fr. v. p. 144), and now in fortifying it in 1567 they cut off the stream outside (p. 56 a) . LUSIGNAN. 121 If this city had been furnished with revetements, the walls and the bastions with stone, and the fosses properly arranged, it would most certainly have been an impregnable fortress. Because it was already provided with cannon — there were 250 large and small — the air too being good, the water good, and the supply of grain ample (as it was then, and is still), if it had had a sufficient garrison, and its Governors and Commanders had been experienced and watchful, the Turks would not have got it so quickly, or at least they would have had wounds and swordthrusts in plenty. We may say then in conclusion that it was the secret judgment of God to purge certain sins on one side and the other. In this city lived all the nobility of Cyprus, Barons, Knights and Feudatories, nearly all of whom died in this affair, with the townsfolk to the number of twenty thousand : all men devoted to the service of God most High, and of their sovereign. The remnant of the souls that were left were all made slaves. Without the city, from the Lower Gate to the Gate of S. Dominic, all the land was full of gardens which stretched away for a league, so abundant was the water, which they drew from wells with certain great wheels, as at Famagosta. The walls of the ancient city were built in the days of Constantine the Great by the Dukes who ruled here. And in pulling them down to build the new ones they found in many places copper coins of the said Constantine, and of S. Helena his mother, and many in one spot. The city had formerly many relics of different saints, and of the Holy Cross given by S. Helena, and a coin of the thirty for whicli Jesus Christ was sold, and the whole btidy of S. John of Montfort, (me of those three hundred Barons of France and Germany who all lived holy lives. Nicosia is 12 leagues distant from Famagosta, 8 from Salines, 18 from Limisso, 33 from Paffo, and from Cerines 5. Ar.senoe. This is the city of Famagosta of to-day. Ptolemy Philadelphus began its construction in jnemory of his sister who b(jre that name. And not only this, but he built or restored other three cities, and called all four Ar-senoe : one is the village of Afdimou, the second is Famagosta, the third is the village Lefca, the fourth the village Arzos. Thus then Famagosta got its name. In the time of the Romans some say it was called in (ireek Amochusta, which means in Latin " hidden in the sand," because outside there is nothing but sand, but the word got corrupted into Famagosta. It grew by the destruction of Salamis. Famagosta had a fine closed port into which in the time of Ptolemy I., king of Egypt, the said Ft(jlemy, who wanted to bring aid to the war of Salamis with Demetrius Antigonus, king of Macedonia, entered with many ships. The harbour was then large, and Demetrius was outside besieging its mouth with a few ships, where he defeated Ptolemy, and captured on shore Menelaus his brother and Leuco his son, with 12,000 men. Between the harbour and the cape della Grea was formerly a port called Leucola, which was destroyed by the sea, but there is still some small shelter there, where vessels go for rest, and in this very year the Turk's Heet went there. This harbour is near the vineyards of the people of Famagosta, almost at the end. Later th(; city was fortified by the Lusignan kings, and then by the Genoese, who held it for ninety years. Then the bastard king, and lastly the Venetians, added to its buildings. It is founded on the live rock, and cannot be undermined. Its walls are massive, built of live stone, and so broad that two carts can travel on them. At the top they are scarped and within the earthwork is broad enough for four carts; but it is not so high as the walls, so as to leave parapets. Inside it has a tall cavalier, and three bastions of earth. Also a walled 122 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. bastion full of cannon above and below, to command the ditches on both sides. It has too several round towers in its circuit, and within a broad road for cavalry right round the city. Its fosses are quarried out with the hammer, and are high, deep and broad : in the middle is a smaller fosse. The walls of the fosse are as high, or higher than the cornice of the walls, and the earth outside is scarped so that one scarcely sees outside two hrazza of wall : nor can one see the city, that is the houses, except the Latin cathedral and a little of the Grreek, because they are high. These buildings, as we have heard, they have in this present uproar made into towers full of earth, and so with other churches and houses. It has two gates, one on the shore, and the other opening on the interior of the island ; this last has two draw- bridges and both are well armed and garrisoned. The sea gate opens on to the middle of the harbour, which is now small. The ditches of the city are dry. In the days of the kings it had also an arsenal. Now the port is choked, because the Signory takes no care for it, and is closed with a chain. The city has a strong castle, with ditches filled by the sea. It is high : just outside it is the shore, and it has a tower or bastion exactly at the mouth of the harbour, and inside this they draw the chain. The water is brackish except in three or four wells, which never fail. They have also plenty of cisterns, made generally of cement, which they renew every three years, and water which runs through the city, drawn by oxen from wells into a tank, and thence let into the city every morning and evening, supplying several fountains. The beasts turn these wheels incessantly. The air of the city is not too good, on account of (the many marshes of) Salamis. It is a little more than a mile in circuit. The city is a fair one, with a fine square and adorned with Latin and Greek churches. There are monasteries too of the four mendicant Orders, but poor and very shabby. The country outside is all sand, but towards the south it has vineyards and beautiful gardens, with all kinds of fruit. And every six or eight days they water them by means of beasts which turn great wheels and draw from the wells all the water they want. They use these wheels all over the island wherever they want to water gardens or cotton, both at Nicosia and in the villages, because the plain is bare of trees by reason of the great heat. And unless they watered, as I have said, everything would be burnt up and dry except the olive and carob trees which do not care for water. After the destruction of Salamis the G-reeks retired to this city, and fixed here their Archbishopric, which lasted until Pope Alexander set it in Nicosia. The city is in the plain near the sea facing south, a hundred miles from the mainland. It is 12 leagues from Nicosia, 50 miles from Salines by sea and 8 leagues by land, 30 miles from Cape della Grea. Here rests the body of S. Epiphanios, and there is preserved one of the waterpots in which was the water turned by our Lord into wine at the marriage, with other relics. And Fra Pietro Thomaso, Patriarch of Constantinople, was buried in the Carmini amid many miracles : he was a brother of that Order. CALEPIO. Fra Angelo Calepio, of Cyprus, a Doctor in Theology of the Order of Preachers, Vicar General of the Province of Terra Santa, is known to us only from the two narratives in which he describes the siege and capture of Nicosia and Famagusta. Of the first of these disasters he was an eye-witness, being in 1570 Superior of the Dominican Convent in Nicosia. He will tell us how he was taken prisoner by a Dervish, sold to the captain of a galley, and carried to Constantinople : ransomed, and again imprisoned by Kilij Ali as a Papal spy. During his second imprisonment he collected from his fellow-captives all that they could tell him about the fall of Famagusta (borrowing almost in its entirety the narrative of N. Martinengo, LUSIGNAN. CALEPIO. 123 which was printed or translated at least six times in 1572), and at last, towards the end of 1572, meeting at Bologna Jacques de Lusignan, a brother monk, known in religion as Frere Etienne de Lusignan, yielded to his wishes and added to the Cliorografia, or short general history, of his noble and learned friend the account here translated of the two sieges. Etienne (or Jacques) de Lusignan was one of the nine children of Jason, who was son of Philippe, son of Chiarion, son of Philippe, son of Henri, Prince de Galilee, son of Jacques I., King of Jerusalem, Cyprus and Armenia, and Heloise de Brunswick, his Queen. One of his brothers was killed in the siege of Famagusta, another was a Basilian monk, one of his sisters a nun. Calepio himself possibly belonged to a family reckoned among the oldest and noblest of Bergamo, and certain peculiarities of dialect may be thought to betray his Lombard origin. But his friend and editor, who probably spoke French and Romaic, freely admits his own ignorance of Italian, and deplores the many errors which result from it. His printers have been indeed unkind. Stops and capital letters have been sprinkled over his pages as with a pepper-box. The spelling is remarkable, tlie text shows no paragraphs, so that the work is difficult to understand and translate. Again it is unlikely that Fra Angelo would know much about fortification. He was not present at the siege of Famagusta, and probably the topography of that fortress was not so well known to him as that of Nicosia. More than ordinary care has been taken in grappling with these difficulties, and in giving Calepio's narrative as fully and exactly as possible to the English reader. I have prefixed to it Fra Steflano's description of Nicosia and Famagusta. M. de Grammont (cited by V. Adm. Jurien de la Graviere, La Guerre de CJiypre, i. 65 and ii. 13) lias recovered some particulars concerning Uluj Ali. He was born about 1508 on the coast of Calabria, was captured from a fishing boat, and made a galley slave, then became a renegade and a corsair, and from 1568 to 1571 was Beylerbey of .\lgiers. He distinguislied himself at Lepanto, where he won the surname of Kilij, and the rank of Qaptan Pasha. In 1574 he took from the Spaniards the port and town of Tunis, and died June 27, 1587. He is said to have urged on the Sultan the advantage of re-opening the ancient canal between the Nile and Suez. (.SVc G. Leti, La Vie de Philippe II., Roi d'Espagne, tr. de I'ltalien, 8vo, Amsterdam, 1734, iv. 88.) Our original occupies pp. 11, 14—16, and 91—123 of tlie CJiorograffixi et breve Historia universale dell' iHola de Cipro .jter il R. P. Lettore Fr. Steffano Lusignano di Cipro delV Ordine de' Pre- dicatori, small 4to, Bologna, 1573. A curious account of the siege of Nicosia, written in o-n'xo' jtoXitikoi by a contemporary noiriTdpit, was published (AtXriov vi. pp. 405—432, Athens, 1906) under the title Op^vos rf/s Kinfrnv by M. Simos Menardos. The MS., a bad copy of about 1700, was found at Phasoulla, in the District of Limasol. LETTKR of THK monk AFORESAID [FRA S. LuSIGNANO] TO HIS READERS. With great desire had I longed to have within reach the tale of the unhappy downfall of the cities of Nicosia and Famago.sta, with all the deeds of daring, and all the notable feats, which there befell, so that my work might be complete, and the reader might have a good and fnll view of the whole history of Cyprus. It pleased God to realise and fulfil this eager longing of mine, insomuch as His grace, and the liberality of that sainted, true and perfect shepherd of souls, Pope Pius V., of happy memory, whose fame may God keep alive, freed from the cruel hands of the Turks the Reverend Vicar General of Terra Santa, the most learned Master Angelo of Cyprus, of the family of the Calepii, a monk of the order of S. Dominic. This man truly merits a place among the illustrious persons mentioned above, for that in all the misery of Nicosia, holding out that standard of Christians, the Cross, he laboured on, exhorting one, cheering another. I cannot tell all his blessed toils : how he comforted the wounded, helped them and carried them into shelter; buried the dead, shrinking not from the blood which dyed his hands and clothes, nor staying to tend his own 16—2 124 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. wounds. How he gave all liis labour and thought to aid others ; and, even when made a prisoner, how he ceased not to console and help his fellow-captives with his words. At last he was bound and taken to Constantinople, then freed; and feeling his freedom to be a particular favour of his Lord, after thanks duly given, to prove his gratitude he went hither and thither among the free Christians and merchants, praying them and exhorting them with tears, so that thus urged they did many worthy deeds, and gave large alms. With such help he set free so many pure and youthful souls, who had been defiled by the vile and devilish law of Mohammad, and with toils and pains brought them back into the bosom of the Holy Roman Church, and, by these most blessed deeds what did he gain ? What indeed but that which S. Urban promised to the deacon Lawrence, " there await thee yet greater toils for the faith of Christ." And now he donned the habit of S. Dominic, to which order Pope Pius himself belonged, and being falsely accused of being a papal spy, the heathen in their rage seized him quickly, bound or chained him in the bagno or prison of the arch- tyrant, meaning him to die. But the Divine Majesty, whose secret counsels dispose all things with infinite wisdom, freed him from these torments, and even altogether from the hands of his treacherous foes, and brought him back to Italy. Here with unresting zeal he began his work anew, aiding and freeing poor timid souls, and especially them of his own family, as saith S. Paul, " If any provide not for his own, and specially for them of his own house, he hath denied the faith and is worse than an infidel" (1 Tim. v. 8). To the truth of all that I have said above I received in Venice ample testimony, from many of our own people, and from strangers. Yet I would not lightly pledge my faith, and give my story to the day, until I had obtained the fullest information, and specially until I had seen the very letters of the most illustrious Marquess Griacomo Malatesta, addressed to His Holiness, and to other most illustrious Cardinals, which say even more than I have set down here, and when Father Angelo came with the Marquess from Constantinople to Italy, knowing that he had been present at the capture of Nicosia, and was a person of judgment and learning, truthful and fair, I begged and prayed his Reverence of his kindness to give me a brief account of both events, namely the downfall of Nicosia and Famagosta, to satisfy my own wish and that of my kind readers. Let who ■will peruse the following history, set down faithfully just as I had it in the convent of S. Dominic, in the city of Bologna, on the fourth day of December, 1572. To my very dear friend, the Reverend Father Fra Stephano Lusignano, of Cyprus, a Reader in the Order of Preachers. If ancient writers, historians and poets alike, as soon as they turned their glance to the resources of Cyprus, spared no pains to make their praises equal its great worth, it seems indeed meet and reasonable that you, a noble and worthy scion of the isle, should endeavour, with all the charm of history, to remind the world of its beauty and dignity. For in it the illustrious and royal House of Lusignan flourished gloriously for many long years, as sovereign lords of the realm. So that one might almost say that it would be an injustice to your own stock did you not give your labours to the world. This thought and your own earnest request have induced me to send you all the true story of the war and the conquest of the kingdom, in which I have not hesitated to follow the simplest and barest truth, rather than an ornate style, or any other human consideration. Accept it then as it is, for very heartily I offer it, and myself with it. Your affectionate brother Fra Angelo Calepio, of Cyprus. Bologna, November X, MDLXXII. CALEPIO. 125 A true and most exact Narrative of the Events of the Conquest and Defence of the Kingdom of Cyprus : Composed by the Reverend Father, Fra Angelo Calepio, of Cyprus, a Doctor in Theology of the Order of Preachers, Vicar General of the Province of Terra Santa, at the instance of the Reverend Father, Fra Stephano Lusignano, a Reader in the same Order. The author to his dear and kind readers. I wish to set before your eyes with exactness and brevity the reason which moved the fierce and barbarous Turkish people to the conquest of the kingdom of Cyprus, and their way of conducting an enterprise which they consider most successful, and greatly to the credit of their skill in arms, but disgraceful to us, and to our faith, and herein I feel it a duty to put away all passion ; to discard tedious prefaces, and superfluous graces of style, and to relate with the most perfect fidelity what really occurred, so that everyone may rapidly reach the substantial facts, and then recognise and pass judgment on our mistakes, and the emptiness of our enemy's boasting. Avarice, lust of fame, difference of religion, diabolic suggestion. Divine permission, an unbounded appetite for new territory to be added to the Ottoman dominions, these were the remote causes of the conspiracy against Cyprus : the nearer cause was the wish of Selim, Emperor of the Turks, to build a mosque and school. This we saw in Adrianople this July, and found it far more magnificent than the mosque of Sultan Suleiman, his father, which is set at the summit of one of the hills of Constantinople, and surpasses all the other mosques and buildings, wth its four minarets, and rich and beautiful architecture, crowned by the gateway removed from Zeghet. But the mosque of Sultan Selim will be grander far, and will have six minarets. A second reason was the acquisition of an income for this mosque, because, according to their law, Selim could not endow the building he proposed to erect from the revenues of the Empire, or from his Treasury. A third reason, that their Mufti, whom they reverence as their Pope or Chancellor, persuaded the Emperor that he ought not to build a mosque before he had accomplished some warlike enterprise against the Christians, to the extension of the Faith and the Empire, as his ancestors had done ; reminding him of the famous Sultans Mehmed the Second, the conqueror of Constantinople, Bayazid, his son, and his own father Suleiman. Thus was he to acquire an income for his mosque. The Mufti urged Selim to the conquest of Cyprus, to make sure the sea, now ravaged by western pirates, who lay securely in its ports, and threatened the safety of pilgrims to Mecca, and of Turkish merchants who traded with Syria and Egypt. He knew that Selim had long cherished a wish to rule over the island, as being out of the reach of the Christian Powers : perhaps too, from his fondness for its excellent wines, and the beautiful falcons which are taken there. Another most powerful incentive was the persistent advice of a miscreant, Gian Miches, who was most devoted to him, and had given him precise news, received from his Jewish brethren, that on September the 13, 1569, a fire in the arsenal of Venice had destroyed its stores and powder; adding information concerning the very great scarcity which reigned in that city. At last the Sultan disclosed his desire to his Pashas. He was opposed with some skill by Mehmed Pasha, who favoured the Christians, and thought this was not the time to break faith with the Venetians, whose friendship had always been of the greatest value to his nation; for it was through their not moving to help other Christians attacked by the Turks that these had made great conquests, and from what I heard at Constantinople from persons worthy of belief (whom 1 must not name, for they are still in the hands of the infidels, and I should 126 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. bring their lives into peril), this Pasha, both from the favour he bore to the Venetians, and his eagerness to get the usual bakhshish, sent secret intelligence to the Bailo, hinting that the matter would be forwarded by a present, and as the Bailo made no sign, Mehmed came over at last to the opinion that Cyprus should be annexed, to condemn and punish, as he said, his ingratitude : for he hoped that the present Bailo would do as Bragadino had done. To him also Mehmed had sent to say that two Cypriots had arrived with letters, which expressed the desire of many peasants of the parici class to be ruled by the Grand Turk, pleading that they were sore burdened : upon which Bragadino, with magnificent gifts, won over the Pasha, who sent back to him these two messengers and their letters, without presenting them to the Sultan. They were never seen again. Before despatching the Chawush to Venice, the Pasha sent to the Bailo to say that the Sultan being a new Sovereign had conceived, as new princes often have strange fancies, a desire to possess that rock called Cyprus ; and as it was a place of no consequence it would be well that they should offer it to his Majesty, who would always be their devoted friend. He begged the Bailo to write to Venice that this fancy of the Sultan's ought certainly to be gratified. It was now, and not before (for all that they may say in Constantinople), that the Bailo was satisfied that an expedition was being armed against the Venetians : this was greatly to our detriment, for had he believed it earlier, and given us warning, an easier and quicker remedy might have been found. For even in the year before the war seventy Turkish galleys were taking soundings in the roadsteads of Famagosta, Saline and Limisso, and soldiers were already assembling in Caramania. Mehmed Pasha, who took the ex- pedition into his special charge, was collecting troops in the Archipelago, and providing stores and horses. One hundred and sixty galleys of different sizes were fitted out, sixty boats with low freeboard (fuste), eight lighters, six vessels, one galleon, forty horseboats, thirty of the kind called caramussali, three mortar boats (palandre), forty frigates — three hundred and forty-eight in all, although the fleet was said to be of four hundred sail — but two hundred and twenty were manned with rowers. On January 13 the Turks detained two Venetian vessels, the "Bonalda" and "Balba." The Sultan went in person to the Topkhane, or gun-foundry, and to the arsenal, and ordered the channels to be blocked, and all Venetian ships to be impounded. On February 11 Cubat Chawush was despatched as ambassador to Venice. He carried letters, and, accompanied by Luigi Bon Rizzo, Secretary to the Bailo, arrived at Venice at the beginning of April. The Signory gave him a most spirited answer, and dismissed him, as was meet. For his master was a perjured usurper, who threatened Christian lands ; which placed all their trust in the true Lion of the tribe of Judah, King of kings and Lord of lords, the Tamer of hosts: and in the holiness and zeal of Pope Pius V., the enemy of heretics and infidels, the lover of peace, the stay of Christendom. Veiiice entered keenly into the war thus unjustly sprung upon her, and despatched with all speed Signor Hieronimo Martinengo with three thousand men; but the general died off Corfu, and less than that number arrived in Cyprus. They were intended to garrison Famagosta, and carried with them the body of Martinengo. The whole capital went forth to receive it, and with bitter wailings bore it to the church of S. Sophia. They waited a little to rest the foot soldiers, and then marched to Famagosta, carrying with them in a coffin their general's remains. Very little before this the Grovernment of the island received letters from the Bailo at Constantinople, and also from the Signory of Venice. Their Excellencies announced that war was declared, offered comfort to all, exhorted all to be brave and loyal, and assured them that every effort would be made for their defence, for the Signory was determined sooner to CALEPIO. 127 lose Venice itself than Cyprus. They were bidden to retire, all of them, to the forts and to the mountains, determined as soon as the enemy arrived to fall upon them, and make sure of victory and plunder. Signor Estor Baglione would be the general of the army, and the Count de Rochas general of the cavalry. These letters gave great joy to all, and confidence in the goodness of their rulers, the lavish promises and inviolable faith of Venice. For they hoped the Signory would choose and send with all speed the best possible Lieutenant, a man fit to rule the island in so terrible an emergency, seeing that the present Lieutenant had completed his term of office, and that all Venice was well aware of his incompetence. They hoped too that a Proveditore would be sent them with the highest qualifications for so important a trust ; for the Signory had received news of the death of Lorenzo Bembo, an event deplorable in itself, and the cause of the loss of Cyprus. Yet again they hoped for a fully efficient force of valiant Italian soldiers, with fitting officers, for the foe was very strong, the island far from Venice and surrounded by Turkish lands, and the capital was so placed in its midst tliat once the enemy was camped round it, no help could reach it, and they founded these hopes upon the liberal offers made by the Signory, on their vigilance and affectionate advice ; remembering that when they first began to fortify the city, upon the smallest sign of suspicion the Signory had sent them an ample garrison. Now that they were really entering upon the war, and declaring themselves the open enemies of so potent a sovereign, as the citj' had eleven bastions, which were so many forts, they held it indispensable that Venice should send, if not ten thousand troops, at least five hundred soldiers for each bastion, especially as they knew that the lower and peasant classes in Cyprus were rude folk and unskilled in war. While they waited the fulfilment of these hopes, they devoted themselves with extra- ordinary diligence to the completion of the fortifications, which in some parts were still without a curtain. They began then with processions in which everyone joined, Latins and Greeks, bishops and monks, the officials, nobles, and persons of every class and nation. Throughout Lent Signor Estor Baglione, with all his officers and soldiers, after processions made and masses sung, went out together to work, carrying the earth dug out of the new ditches to fill up the old, so that the enemy might not find trenches ready made to their hand. Before the enemy landed the fortress was nearly complete, though the garrison had not time to make certain traverses, which were necessary to mask the guns of the fort, such as the Turks, on their side, were able to make afterwards on the hill of S. Marina. At this juncture Signor Estor Baglione summoned the parliament or council, and pro- posed to the Government, first by word of mouth, and then in writing, that it were not less advantageous than necessary to march down to the seacoast, and there to make a stand against the foe, to test their own strength, and to harass him as much as possible. Many times he offered the same advice, and beat up the ordinary cavalry and a few extra horses for his company, which he wished to equip with several arquebusses apiece, after the fashion of " feraroli," so that at least the enemy should not find landing an easy and comfortable affair. The' nobles, and indeed all the people, thought the plan excellent. They m-ote a most spirited letter, which their agents presented to the Signory, setting forth their relation to the Republic, together with the very strong reasons for turning to account their enthusiasm and material forces in a march to the seacoast, there to try every means to prevent the enemy's landing, or at least to throw his troops into disorder. How very reasonable this scheme was will be evident when it is remembered that with the horses in Cyprus, counting also mules, which are admirably suited for arquebusiers, a force of five or six thousand 128 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. cavalry could easily be raised, while from the Frankish inhabitants they could array twenty- four or twenty-five thousand infantry, all of whom, upon the enemy's approach, would be seen massed upon the hills round the Salines, and make the Turks afraid to land, lest they should be compelled at once to join battle in the plain, as before Barbarossa when he attempted to seize the island. For myself, and all of us who were made slaves by the Turks, heard that they were fully persuaded that Cyprus had a strong and efficient force of cavalry, and a sufficient number of brave and stalwart soldiers not only to garrison the fortresses, but to meet and withstand them in the open field, and that there really were plenty of soldiers, both horse and foot, all Venice knows, for as far back as the time of Giacomo Gisi the Signory had disbanded many stradiots and five hundred arquebusiers, who were formerly enrolled and paid for the defence of the island. The Lieutenant, the Coadjutor and his brothers took the opposite view, holding that the enemy would certainly force a landing, and that it would be inexpedient thus to risk the few available soldiers and horsemen, and to weaken the defence of the fortresses, to which they would have to retreat in a march of eight and a half leagues. They further professed to rely on the opinion and counsel given before a meeting of the Signory by the right noble Sf orza Pallavicino. Would to God this counsel had not prevailed ! for Signor Estor Baglione, in no little wrath (it was said) left finally with his detachment for the defence of Famagusta, as the Lieutenant would not allow him to carry out his own plans, framed upon the principles of the art of war, for the protection of the kingdom. Hence it was that to our capital city there came no reinforcements, no new Lieutenant, no Proveditore, officers of whom we had supreme need : no colonels or captains, and even the one commander left to Nicosia we lost by the fine management of the Lieutenant Nicola Dandolo, the root and reason (as everyone says) of the ruin of the realm. Would to God we had lost him too ! Meanwhile the most Reverend Contarini, Bishop of Paffo, raised at his own cost one hundred soldiers, Gioan Bragadino three hundred, the Count of Tripoli three hundred, Gioan Filippo of Milan six horsemen and twelve foot soldiers, all the feudatories and pensioners as many as, and more than, they were bound to furnish ; and many others who were under no obligation oifered either horses or foot soldiers. Many of the Cypriot nobles were created captains with two hundred infantry apiece : Signor Hector Podocatoro ... ... ... ... ... 200 „ Tutio Constanzo ... ... ... ... ... 200 „ Livio Podocatoro ... ... ... ... ... 220 „ Thomaso Sinclitico ... ... ... ... ... 200 „ Jason de Nores ... ... ... ... ... 200 „ Francesco Maria de Nores ... ... ... ... 200 „ Ugo Flatro, who afterwards took, as Lieutenant to the Proveditor, the company of gentlemen, his own company being given to Signor Gioan Filippo of Milan ... ... 220 „ Gioan Flatro ... ... ... ... ... 200 „ Giofredo Cornaro ... ... ... ... ... 200 J, Scipio CarafPa, who was sent to the mountains to collect recruits: his company was given to Signor Mautio Zimblet 200 „ Pietro Paolo Sinclitico was sent also to get recruits from the mountains; his company was offered to Gioan Faglier, who refused it, and it was given to Signor Orssato Gistiniano ... ... ... ... ... 200 CALEPIO. 129 All these companies were raised in Nicosia ; but the Government, fearing their numbers insufficient, made a levy, and among trained and untrained citizens enrolled a thousand more recruits. 'J'hey had neither muskets nor swords to give them, no arquebuses, no defensive armour. Nine hundred field pieces were either sent to the villagers in the hills, or posted at the beginning of the siege on the walls: but they remained unserviceable because the soldiers had never been trained to use them. In the armoury were only a thousand and forty arquebuses, which anycme took who could. Many of the soldiers were brave enough, but many had so little training that they could not fire their muskets without burning their beards. Most of them were artizans, without means, who received no pay, nor while under arms were able to earn anything. They were pining with hunger, and loud in murmurs and curses. Of men like these two thousand six hundred were told off to garrison the city. 'J^he councillors and nobles were divided into two bands under two excellent captains. One was Febo Zappe, a noble, to whom was assigned the charge of the Podochatoro bastion, which he defended stoutly until killed by a cannon shot. His company was then given to his brother Signor Artius Zappa, who held his post against all comers, and was the last man killed in the last assault. I saw his body furrowed with every sort of wound, but to his last breath he guarded his honour and his country. Seven hundred and fifty men were with him, and seven hundred and fifty in the other company of gentlemen citizens and their servants, with which Ugo Flatro manned the Constanzo bastion. Thus these two companies mustered fifteen hundred men. The captains of the Cenddc, Italians and Cypriots, with seven hundred and fifty men. Captain Gabriel de Bergamo „ Battista „ Annibal Zangravi „ Gioan Angelo „ Giacomo Zacharia, a Cypriot noble „ Zuan Muscorno, a Cypriot noble „ Urban de' Vitaldi Captains of the ordinary militia of the towns of Cyprus, recalled to Nicosia with their companies. Cieco da Perosa of the militia of Chitria ... 300 Gioan Andrea da Spello Nisu 300 Batista delli Preti i> Lacatamia 300 Zaneto Dandolo M Lapithos 300 Antonio Georgio >J Salines ... 300 Thomaso de Grazu yf Afdimu ... 300 Annibal Albanese M Crusocho 300 Giuliano da Venetia }> Peristerona 300 Borgogno de Abruzo » Limisso ... 300 Paolo Vicentino >» Lefca 300 Hieronimo da Sascil j> Paffo 300 The other captains of the militia of the towns in the island, with their companies, went to Famagosta, according to the orders given when they were embodied. 17 130 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Italian captains and their companies. Colonel Ronchon, Commanding Colonel Palazo da Fano Count Albert Scotto Captain Nicolo Paleotti „ Paolo del Guasto „ Francesco de Laura „ Lazaro Coluban „ Pompeio Coluban „ Giovan de I'Oglio „ Carlo Ragunasco „ Antonio di Berettin Cavalier Magrino, Engineer Captain Camillo da Gadi „ Micbael Griti „ Gioan Battista de San Coluban „ Battista da Fan „ Carlo de Arimini The soldiers of all these officers numbered together thirteen hundred. Some of the captains were the successors of others. Captains with pay, but without companies. Captain Giulian Guastaldo „ Leonardo da Borgo „ March' Antonio Dascello „ Giacomo Grazzo „ Celio da Lodi „ Gioan Battista Calluro „ Francesco Pattella „ Fabri di Imola Captains of the Stradiots with their companies. Commanding, Rondachi Captain Nicolo Kirieleison „ Lamberti „ Pietro Mauresi „ Filippo Laschari, a Cypriot noble „ Dimitri Laschari, a Cypriot noble „ Gioanne di Elmi Cavalier Dimitri Paleologo, a Cypriot noble Captain Andrea Cortese „ Catella „ Thomaso Blasi „ Gioanne Ligocesi „ Dimitri Paleologo CALEPIO. 131 The other ordinary captains of the Stradiots, with one hundred horses, went to Famagosta. Meanwhile some of our Cypriots went off with their vessels and scoured the seas of Caramania and Syria in pirate fashion, taking some prizes. But rumours of war reached them from Syria and other Turkish lands, and they made for home, bringing over some of our monks and priests, who advised us of the immense preparations which the Turks were making for the war against Cyprus. At the end of March the Pasha sent forth from Constantinople Murad Rais, with twenty-five galleys bound for Rhodes, to cut off help designed for Cyprus. On April 17 Piali Pasha left Constantinople with eight galleys and thirty galliots. When Cubat Chawush returned from Venice bearing a more spirited reply than had been anticipated, twelve chawushes were at once sent to isolate the Bailo of Venice and his staff, a chawush and some janissaries being left^ on guard to prevent news of any kind reaching him, and to cut him off from all intercourse, consultation and conversation. Then with all possible diligence they hastened the despatch of the rest of the fleet, and on March 16, 1570, Ali Pasha sailed with thirty-six galleys, twelve flats, four Turkish vessels and two Venetian, the galleon of Mehmed Pasha, eight lighters, forty horseboats and many caramussali, full of men, provisions, guns, amTnunition and other necessary stores, for the conquest of Cyprus. General Mustafa Pasha commanded the whole force. Piali Pasha had left before, and at Tenos, a little island belonging to the Venetians, slew many Christians: on March 28 he took Negropont, and loaded with provisions loft for Rhodes. He caught up the rest of the fleet on the way; with great rejoicing they united their forces, and arrived June 1 at Rhodes. From Rhodes they went to Finica, whither the army had been sent overland, this being a port of Anatolia, near Cyprus and convenient for crossing thither. About June 20 they sent six galliots to Cyprus to get news : they reached a village called Lara, near Alexandretta, and while their crews were chasing some herdsmen twenty-nine of our Stradiot horse fell upon them, and drove them on board, killing a good many Turks. Not one Christian fell, only the horse of the lieutenant of these Stradiots, who, hoping to get some reward for his gallant exploit, came to Nicosia with a number of prisoners and many heads. The magnifi- cent Dandolo showed his liberality by refusing him even an advance of pay to buy another horse for the service of S. Mark. Meanwhile the right reverend bishop Contarini made an oration ni the vulgar tongue in S Sophia, urging every man to be loyal and strenuous in the struggle; holding out to them the warm and grateful affection which the Republic bore to Cyprus, with such warm and graceful eloquence and strong persuasiveness that all were moved to tears of enthusiasm, and each man resolved to die in defence of his plighted word, his country and his km. ^^ hen he came down from the pulpit he was embraced affectionately by the high officials, the counts barons and knights, and warmly thanked. Then Count Giacomo, in the name of all the Cypriots, addressed the bishop and the officials.-" All Venice knows, and everyone can see our loyalty devotion and obedience to the Republic, a fidehty of so long standing. Everyone shall know again at this crisis, in these perils which beset us, by our brilliant deeds, by our very blood, how loyal we are; how we would rather die by the edge of the sword than change our masters." , ■ i. « • i f They were active in carrying provisions into the fortresses, and the high officials went to Aschia, to meet the general commanding at Famagosta, and to arrange abont gram, cattle and other matters necessary for such an undertaking. For all they could do an immense quantity of wheat and barley remained outside, while they took possession of the larger part of our cattle, both small and great. 17 — 2 132 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. The Parici were all hopeful because letters arrived from Venice allowing the lords to release them from their servitude ; but no liberty did they get, except such as Mustafa gave them. All the gentlemen of the realm kept saying publicly that they had given their consent to the liberation of their parici : if their good intentions were defeated by the cruelty of the government I cannot say. The expedition left Finica on June 27 and arrived at Baft'o July 1 ; the next day the news reached Nicosia, Limisso and Acrotiri were sacked and burned, the enemy's ravages extending inland to the village of Polimidia. The captain of the Stradiots and Vincenzo Malipiero, vice-captain of BafEo, met and charged them with cavalry, broke their ranks, put them completely to flight, and so drove them back with great slaughter to the sea. They took two Turks alive, and made up two loads of heads, which the Stradiots who were sent to meet them carried afterwards on the points of their lances to Nicosia. The two prisoners, with their hands bound behind them, were forced to march before the horse of the vice- captain of Balfo. The sight gave courage to the citizens, who came out to the villages, and down to the sea-shore, or went shouting about the walls of Nicosia, " Success to S. Mark by land and by sea." The next day the Turks arrived at Salines. Our general of cavalry went to confer with Estor Baglione at a village between Salines and Famagosta. On the third, in perfect comfort and without the slightest opposition, the enemy landed his cavalry, infantry, artillery, ammunition and stores, and laid out and fortified his camp. Mustafa sent Piali to the gulf of Aiazza with a hundred galleys, twenty horseboats and some lighters to bring over the rest of the horses, janissaries and Sipahis ; while Ali Pasha was despatched with the rest of the fleet to the same end to the gulf of Sataha, Mustafa being afraid to leave Salines until he had mustered his whole force. The officers returned on July 21 with the desired rein- forcements. In the meanwhile Mustafa had sent Nicodemus, a blind Greek monk, a Corfiote, with letters exhorting and threatening all men to submit to his sovereign, promising them all the liberties they now enjoyed, and greater still. Our general of cavalry had already retired with his whole force to Nicosia, and remained there until the day of the massacre. The enemy meanwhile made various raids, and reached Lefcara, guided by a Greek priest of the village. The inhabitants, who had neither walls nor ditches, arms offensive or defensive, were obliged to promise allegiance. The government was promptly informed, and Captain Meaduca Dimitri Lascari, with his company of light horse, was sent with orders to give the village to fire and flame, and kill old and young. This bold officer, when he had reduced the Lefkarites to obedience, was anxious for another chance of meeting the enemy. He gave chase to a large detachment, and drove them into a narrow gorge between two mountains. Here his horse was killed, and leaping up behind his brother, an ensign, he retreated to Nicosia. On the 24th the Turks left for Nicosia, having first sent five hundred horsemen to Fama- gosta to prevent any assistance reaching that city, but Signer Estor Baglione met and routed them at San Sergio. On the 25th part of the enemy's army arrived, with a vanguard of cavalry; as soon as they were in sight Colonel Palazzo was ready with advice to go out and check this first detachment before the main army came up ; he wanted to make a sally in force with all the mounted Stradiots, feudatories and pensioners, and a great part of the Italian and Greek infantry, and although the chief officials and the Coadjutor knew that he was a soldier of great experience, they did not accept his counsel nor approve his reasons. The next day the rest of the enemy's forces arrived, and some horsemen rode boldly up to the walls, and pitched their camp on the hill of Mantia. Among these, and on the same spot, the General had his quarters, and contrary to the notions of our people found abundant CALEPIO. 133 water. Another part of the army encamped near S. Dimitri, close to the spring : the other tents were five Itahan miles away, in the two villages called Aglangia and Athalassa, because water was handy. On S. Anne's day, the enemy, finding they occupied their ground without resistance, sent out a few horsemen to provoke us to a skirmish. Our own people as well as the Italians and Greeks, who were eager for the fray, earnestly begged that they might go out and charge them; but this was forbidden by the Lieutenant, who allowed, however, a few horsemen, under Signor Cesare Piovane, Lieutenant to the Coadjutor. They were too few to achieve any remarkable success, but they tried to draw the enemy within range of our artillery. They did the same on the next two days ; on one of these Andrea Cortese, a captain of Stradiots, was captured, and brought before the Pasha, Avho (it is said) had him beheaded. On Sunday, the 30th, they hastily ran up a redoubt on the hill of S. Marina, about a hundred and forty paces from the fortress, mounted their guns, and began to fire upon us. They met with little or no interruption during the building of this work; our men were trying from the curtain between the Podochatoro and Caraffa bastions, and from the face of the CarafFa, with guns of fifty pounds to dislodge them, but the Turks worked by night and with a will, and finished it quickly : for they looked forward to battering the platforms of some of the bastions, as well as the curtain, and the houses, which last the architect of the fortress, trusting to his traverses (and for other reasons which some persons thought dis- honest), would not pull down. They built another fort at St George, on an inconsiderable hill; from this too they proposed to open fire on our houses: and a third over against the bastions Costanzo and Podochatoro, on a hill called Margarita. The fourth fort they set half way up the hill Mandia, but the fire from this was of little importance. They dug deep trenches close together, going below the ditches round the walls of the old city, and some eight paces from the ruins of that city they built four other forts opposite the bastions Podochatoro, Costanzo, Davilla and Tripoli. These were strengthened with deep ditches, demilunes, and deep square reduits where they set outposts, which were safe from attack whether by our guns, horse or foot soldiers. For four days together from morning to evening tliey kept up the briskest possible fire from sixty pounders, resting only for three or four hours during the great heat of the day ; but they found this of no avail, for the balls buried themselves in the earthworks, without damaging our walls. Then they abandoned this form of attack, and took to spades and picks, and in a very short time ran their trenches under our counterscarp, yet we never tried to dislodge them. They worked on undisturbed, and nuide an immense ditch, throwing up the soil towards us : in this was posted a large body of musketeers, who were always on the watch, and with great address aimed at anyone of our men who appeared upon the walls to fire the morning or evening gun, a custom we still kept up. So they brought up their roads and ditches right into our ditch, which was twenty paces broad. Not to leave their horses idle they made them fetch faggots from a distance and with these and the earth dug out they made such excellent traverses that they soon overtopped our reduits, which became useless for offence. We were most anxious to harass them ^vit\\ our cavalry to stop their horses from bringing up faggots, but were not allowed to do so : even when some of the most daring of them came close up to our ditch to cut away the bridges and fronts of the bastions, and to bore into the walls, the Lieutenant would not allow our men to fire on them if they were one or two, but only when they were ten or more, saying that he could not justify it to S. Mark. So that the enemy had all the convenience for damaging our walls and bastions which they themselves could desire, whilst I and very many others have heard mth our own ears the 134 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. haughty commands and threats addressed to our gunners and their chief about wasting powder, which was doled out with the utmost niggardhness, as though to avoid injuring men who with such furious and incessant firing were trying to take our lives. Even what they had the Lieutenant wanted to hoard, so that very many people began to think he was a traitor. More than once Signer Pisani asked the Vice-Proveditor why he did not let our men do what was necessary for the defence, and they almost came to blows when he was told, " Illustrious Sir, we ought to clear the ditch, and drive out the enemy, so that they may not with spades and picks undermine our ramparts, and lay them low." Signor Dandolo answered that our bastions were so many mountains. Soldiers climbed down by night through the loop-holes to reconnoitre the enemy's works : sometimes the Turks were forced to run, sometimes our men. In a few days the Turks had made great tunnels, blowing up the earth to fill in our ditch, and making shelters in them with scaffolding. Our soldiers and the citizens learned this, and fearing the damage they would do us begged earnestly that they might be allowed to make one grand sally in force to prevent the enemy from mining, and to destroy his traverses. But their request was refused, because the whole number of Italians was very small, and many of these had died already of a malady then prevalent, and from bad management, and the natives were un- trained. Colonel Palazzo was trying to make a cavalier of great beams and stakes to command the enemy's forts : it was hollow below, so that we could use the embrasures of the bastion, and earth was heaped up above, on which he meant to plant cannon. But I think it was never used, and a gentleman who was one of the first to mount on it was struck by a ball fired from S. Marina. Our men sought some means of using their arquebuses, and one of them took two long stout beams, and bored holes in them : these they set on the crest of the parapet, but the enemy noticed them at once, and, to the disappointment of the contrivers, destroyed them with cannon shots. An attempt was made to make a mine at the angle of the bastion, but the earth was loose, because the enemy was working under it, and this too failed. At the beginning of August, seeing what confusion reigned, it was resolved to send for help to Famagosta, to get Signor Estor Baglione and some gunners. Letters in cypher were given to messengers, who were captured by the Turks and paraded before us, that we might abandon all hope of assistance. That brave officer Captain Gioan Battista San Coluban was instantly despatched on the same errand : the enemy gave him chase, and secured his hat and dagger, which they exhibited to us under the walls; they also wrote a letter to the Count Giacomo de Nores, general of the artillery, and one to the citizens, exhorting them to surrender. Captain San Coluban arrived at Famagosta, the Council assembled, and the letter was read. It contained three requests : the first asked for Signor Estor Baglione, the next for a reinforcement of Italian soldiers, the third for gunners. Signor Estor Baglione announced his readiness to go, and in this and the next meeting of the Council it was resolved that he should be allowed to do so : secondly, that they would not send soldiers, and so weaken the garrison ; thirdly, that any gunner who chose might go. But when Signor Estor pressed for a sufficient escort they would grant him no more than the hundred soldiers of his own guard. He was so anxious to help the city of Nicosia that, thinking a hundred men insufficient to force the enemy's outposts, he determined to go accompanied only by Captain San Coluban and a guide. The captain, however, insisting on the dangers which he himself had seen and proved persuaded him to stay. San Coluban then left Famagosta with Lonardo di Verona, a gunner, and one other man, and after great perils, and whole days passed without food or drink, while they tried to escape capture by the three bands who guarded CALEPIO. 135 the city on every side, they arrived at Nicosia on S. Laurence's day. Messengers were sent also to the hills, to ask for help, but they were taken and paraded under our walls. There was no chance now of assistance from without, and they began forthwith to make reduits ; Colonel Palazzo directed the construction of those in the Podochatoro and Costanzo bastions, closing with them the passage into the bastion. But Signer Sosomenino at the Tripoli and Davila bastions constructed a simple reduit, leaving no room for an enemy : and probably if the same plan had been followed in the Podochatoro the Turks in their last attack would not have held their ground. On August 12 the two gunners reconnoitred the enemy's forts, and conceived great hopes of dismantling them : they talked with their chief and with the general of artillerj'', and asked for two cannons of a hundred pounds, they fired one shot and struck the mouth of one of the enemy's guns, destroying the embrasure, and with the splinters killing many Turks. The Lieutenant was informed, but in spite of all they could say, he would not consent to a further expenditure of powder : he agreed however to do all he could. The next day Monsignor Contarini, in concert with Signor Pisani, Marco Polani and others, held an animated conference, and with strong and almost angry reasonings engaged the Lieutenant to work out some careful plan for our defence and the enemy's discomfiture. With the utmo.st possible secrecy they decided to make a sally with a thousand infantry, Greeks and Italians, and all the Stradiot horse. The gentry and feudatories wished to join them, but the Government would not consent. On the I'ith Caia Cenlibi was despatched with six galliots to collect news. He reached Candia and then took a boat with a few Christians^ who .said that the Christian fleets had assembled : this news he brought back to Cyprus. The Pashas meanwhile sent out vessels to scour the seas as far as Baffo, while our people on the mountains by beacons and bonfires signalled, as the Government had bid them do, the number of the ships they saw. We were thus often led to hope that the vessels might be those of our fleet. On the 15th without noise or bustle the Stradiot cavalry was set in array, and at midday at the usual resting hour mustered, lance in hand, in the bed of the stream which passed through Nico.sia : they opened the gate which leads to Famagosta, and sent out the infantry, not indeed all which it had been determined to send, but a good part, under Captain Cesare Piovene di Vicenza, Lieutenant of the Coadjutor, who had drilled his men on horseback but now chose to go out on foot. With him were Count Alberto Scotto, Nicolo Gradinico, Zanetto Dandolo, Giorgio Pandeo, and Cav. Magrino, the engineer. They all marched stoutly forth, and finding the Turks asleep, as their habit was at midday, made themselves easily masters of the finst two forts. The Turks fled like so many stags to the hill of S. Marina, fearing some greater disaster. The noise reached the tents, the greatest confusion prevailed, some of the enemy took to flight, leaving everything behind them, and but for their haste they would have spiked their guns. Our men burst into their camp, caught up bows, arrows, scimitars and other booty, and even their cooking pots full and hot. Afterwards some of our renegades told us that if the Christians had followed up the attack with more infantry, and with our cavalry, and had turned the Turkish guns against their masters, we should very likely have remained victors. But, as the best and worst of our ill luck would have it, the Lieutenant and Vice-Proveditor forbade the cavalry to go out, as well as the rest of the infantry, all of whom were eager for the fray ; and this, as some said, because he had foi-bidden the gentlemen to go out, and seeing among the horsemen Falier and certain other gentlemen with their vizors lowered, he threw everything into confusion. Others laid the blame on the Lieutenant of the Coadjutor who wanted all the honour for himself, and rather 136 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. than the Commander of the Stradiots should get it, ordered the cavalry to remain within the walls. Whether the confusion was due to this cause or that, they know ; to us it is plain that the cavalry did not leave the city, and that, for all that our men could gaily shout, " Forward, Forward : let the cavalry come up, for the day is ours," those poor soldiers thus abandoned began to despair of cavalry support : that the enemy saw this, and the few of their men who had taken to flight returned with a very large body of horse and foot. Our troops thus compelled to forego the advantage they had gained, retreated very slowly. Captain Cesare Piovene, Count Scotto and others were killed, and altogether we lost a hundred men, dead or prisoners : among the last was the lieutenant of Captain Lazaro. The rest entered the city with many fine things, valuable daggers of Turkish make, scimitars and arquebuses richly inlaid, tulipanti and the like. The story went that Cav. Mangrino, as he came back into the fortress, said, " I have never gone out to attempt some deed of daring without meeting something which looked like treason (tradimento)," but I think he meant " an objection (impedimento)," because I hear that the Lieutenant's reply was this, " Sir Knight, you are still young and do not know everything." We never made another sally, so that the enemy came boldly up to destroy our works. The brother of Count Griacomo Ottavio, who was on duty in the Tripoli bastion, chose to go up to an embrasure to watch the enemy's movements, but he had scarcely shown himself when he was struck by a bullet and killed. About August 18 Piali Pasha went to Rhodes, sent to Candia for news, and then set out on his return to Cyprus. The Turks worked on diligently till they had made a sufficiently convenient way to reach our bastions ; they often mounted on them ; and planted a flag. Four or six days later they began to make their attack. The assailing parties carried with them good sized bags full of powder, which they threw upon our soldiers, doing great injury. Anyone who took them up to throw them back was burned, and there was no way of dealing with them but to hook them on the point of a pike and push them over among the enemy. Throughout the siege, which lasted forty-five days, they kept up a lively cannonade, trying to destroy our houses. Morning and evening they fired guns of every kind, and very often mortars and predere : on Sundays particularly they aimed at the churches. They used even greater efforts to batter the platforms of the bastions, and although they did some damage to our men and works it was not so great as they thought. Many of our people died daily, and murmurs were not lacking about victuals and powder. For the next few days the usual cannonade was kept up morning and evening, as well as volley firing, while they assailed the Podochatoro, Constanzo, Davila and Tripoli bastions, sometimes two at a time, sometimes all four at once, but they were always valiantly repulsed. Our soldiers used balls, tubes and other fireworks, the enemy attacking us with arquebuses, arrows and bags of powder. One day they made an unusually brisk assault, and after volleys and cannon shots met us hand to hand. Count Griacomo went outside the palisade in the middle of the platform to encourage his men, and was struck on the brow by an arrow, and died of the wound. We thought their arrows were poisoned. The hospitals were now full of wounded, and only four hundred Italian soldiers were left sound. The doctors were too few for the work, and in truth I saw but little charity where I ought to have found it, not only towards the wounded, but the whole, and so to stir the hearts of the rich and great, out of our poor stock I loaded one mule with wine, another with biscuit and yet another with beans and olives, and presented them to our chiefs in the presence of many nobles, and of the bishop of Baffo, to be given to those who were risking their lives for ours. But I found few to imitate me : there were men who did their duty, but it was hard to extract wine from CALEPIO. 137 those who had any. Wood was scarce, though everyone had enough to bake his bread ; but they used the rafters of our convent, which was already in ruins, on the fortifications, and to that end our Fathers gave them wilhngly enough, as well as beams for the cavalier, and for the eleven or twelve stockades, built on the bastions and in other places, so many thousand solid rafters, and sixteen hundred more to make carriages for the guns. A little grain was all that was given to those wretched artisans, who had no means of living, and who were always on guard, and at the mercy of the enemy. A few of the plebeian soldiers murmured against certain nobles who went to sleep in their own houses, and their commanders ordered these all to come to their quarters, either on the bastions or in the shelters below. The chiefs only slept in their houses, and every day, morning and evening, their food was brought up by their servants. In the next assault Captain Berettino died. And again on the next day, in another attack, Signor FeV)bo Zappe, Captain of one half of the gentlemen, was killed on the ramparts by a cannon ball. The enemy had now destroyed the angles of the bastions and the parapets, and completed a convenient approach ; they drove a donkey up it, and kept crying in mockery, " don't hurt the poor ass, it can do you no harm ! " Then they shouted, " surrender, for you are in a bad way," and shot in a letter tied to an arrow, saying the same thing. Beset by so many and great dangers the inhabitants not only kept up continual pro- cessions, but also made a vow to the Divine Majesty to build a church called 8. Maria della Vittoria, if, through the merits of Christ's most tender Mother, our Intercessor, we drove back the foe : and they called me and gave me the charge of collecting the alms of all, and in three days I found moi-e than two thousand ducats, and hoped to find the rest, but certain Greeks shocked me greatly, who (to put the seal on their iniquities, and invite Heaven the sooner to visit them with the just punishment of their schism) would give me no alms because the church would be of the Latin rite. There were not wanting rich men also who gave little or nothing when they might have given their hundreds. About August 30 Piali l^asha returned from Rhodes with news of the position of our fleet, and feeling certain that it was not likely to come so very soon so reported to Mustafa Pasha, who ordered the immediate supply of everything necessary for the capture of the city. 'J'he Turks now came to reciuest one hour's truce, which was granted to them. Their parley was about many things, but the gist of it all was to exhort us to surrender. Our chiefs replied with spirit, provoking them to attack us again, and one rash fool even began to fire upon them. On the next day followed a furious cannonade, and volleys of musketry more continuous than before, but when they came to the charge they were repulsed with small loss on either side. All our .soldiers murmured that they were not given sufficient powder and balls : the gunners especially, who sent their commander to get a further supply. He came to the gate leading to Famagosta, and there in the presence of Bishop Contarini and other nobles the Proveditor was wroth with him, and with threats and angry words told this chief gunner that he ought not to use cannon of great calibre, but smerigli (three or four pounders) and the like, adding that this was the intention and ad^^ce of Signor Julio Savorgnano. The gunner answered that so great a man never held such an opinion, that pieces of this kind should be used in repulsing an attack : however, they must have patience. Mustafa Pasha sent off two chawushes with all speed with letters, one to Piali, the other to Ali Pasha, exhorting them that being now certain of the delay of the Christian fieet they were cpiite sure of taking Nicosia; nothing was wanting but a strong force, because such easy approaches had been constructed, with strong traverses on every side that horsemen 18 138 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. could safely mount them; they must come then with all their troops, and the city would certainly fall to the Turks. On the 7th or 8th of September the said naval commanders marched their men towards Nicosia, a thing they had hitherto been unwilling to do from fear of the Christian fleet. Some Turks told us that they sent twenty-five thousand, others said that a hundred men were selected from each galley. I should indeed be much surprised, if Mustafa had a hundred thousand men, that in the twelve or fifteen assaults made after this he could not subdue us. On Saturday, September 9, at dawn the enemy prepared for a general assault on the Podo- chatoro, Constanzo, Davila and Tripoli bastions. The conquest of the Podochatoro was entrusted to the Rumelians (that is, Grreeks) and Caramanians, with their Pasha Caraman. Muzafi^er Pasha and his troops undertook the attack on the Constanzo, the General Mustafa and Ali Pasha those on the Davila and that called after the Count of Tripoli. All these at the same moment led a most spirited attack, with a very great crowd of soldiers. The largest force was directed at the Podochatoro as being the most damaged and made easiest of entry. They came on with such fury, such shouts and noise, that many of the country folk, who were on the front of the bastion outside the shelter, and could not reach their arms, fled ; the rest fought on smartly for a while, but the enemy's numbers kept increasing, our men were cut in pieces, and the little fosses of the shelter were choked with corpses. Now the bell rang out " to arms," everyone fell into the ranks, and leaping down from the approaches and over the walls of the shelter kept up a brisk fight and drove back the foe. The Turks however outnumbered us, and began to carry the shelter, but they had to face the mailed breasts of many Italians, nobles and citizens, and for two hours made no way. The Coadjutor came with Signor Pisani and others of the chiefs. For a while they wei-e kept at bay, but our soldiers fell apace. I say this for I was on the spot, sent by the Bishop of Baffo, the Proveditore and Signor Pisani to encourage the combatants. The Coadjutor fell killed by a musket ball : Messer Bernardo Bollani fell, and lay awhile under the corpses, but was picked up and went down to the gate. Nicolo Sinclitico Avithdrew at last with a wound on the face, likewise his brother Grieronimo. Thomas Visconti, their brother, died : Colonel Palazzo died on the spot, the Governor Roncone died in his house ; and (to be brief) after two hours' continuous fighting nearly all were left dead. Signor Pisani, who fought like a valiant commander, received a mortal wound from a musket ; we helped to carry him off, together with Signor Artius Zappe, Captain of the nobles, who was furrowed with wounds as he stood, firm as a tower, to drive back the foe ; he stayed awhile under the gate to recruit his strength, and then returned boldly to the fight, and died like a brave soldier, after taking the life of many an opponent. Signor Pisani was carried to his house by his eldest son and a servant, and there died. The Lieutenant left his usual post at the Famagosta Gate, sent as a reinforcement the three hundred soldiers from Lefca, and then retired to the Palace. In such a strait it was his duty to go and encourage his troops. The Bishop of Baffo, who had on a corslet, made me put on him armpieces and a helmet, and went to join his men. The gunner of the Caraffa bastion came down from his post to the gate where the chiefs were assembled, and spake boldly to them in these words — " Ye dogs, enemies of God, of yourselves and the realm, do ye not see that the enemy is gaining ground ? Why have we not powder that we may drive them out ? As long as I had powder to batter their flanks they made no way. The devil take you : have we eaten the powder, have we swallowed the balls ? Your saving for S. Mark will, I can see, lose us the day." The chiefs then asked eagerly for me, and sent me to Signor Almorone to bid him be on the alert, and if the enemy proved the victors to set fire to the CALEPIO. 139 great towers, or at least to the ammunition, and with all possible speed to send a cartload of powder to the Caraffa bastion. It was for the general good, and though I was stained with my own blood, and that of our Christian brethren, I went with due haste. On the road near the houses of Gianuchio Muscorno we saw twenty-five janissaries, and the Vice-Captain of the gunners and I called to some Italians and Greeks who would not come with us. The enemy crowded in, and much blood was spilt in that quarter. The powder was sent, but did not come in time. Gioan Filippo da Milano went on horseback (for he was gouty) to the Podochatoro bastion to encourage the soldiers : he was struck by a musket ball and killed. Fighting still continued on this bastion, and the others were still defended. All our brave fellows died. Our Stradiot horse, if it had been ready at the moment, might certainly have charged and broken the enemy, but from the first they were dismounted and set on guard duty in the bastions. By this one can understand how sensible was the advice of Sosomenino and others, who wanted to keep these Stradiots, and the five hundred horsemen of the pensioners and feudatories, who were not trained as infantry, mounted and ready, so that when the enemy forced their way in, this cavalry should drive them out. They might have been drawn up in the road between the city wall and the houses, for this was wide enough perhaps for twenty troopers abreast. But Colonel Palazzo did not approve of this, and it was not done. No other help came, we could do nothing jnore, and to our sorrow the Turks were able to force their way in. On one side they rushed wildly into the city, on another they went to attack the men who were defending the Constanzo bastion, which they entered from the town : our soldiers were surrounded and cut in pieces. Many of the citizens defended them- selves bravely : many of the Cernidti, and most of the other villagers, seeing the multitude of the enemy and the number of the dead, in cowardly wise ran away : no prayers of ours, no orders from their commanders had power to make them stop and face the foe. What seemed so strange to me was that numbers of these rascals climbed down through the em- brasures to get out of the city, and in their haste to escape fell into the snare. There was fighting in the streets and the squares, but with no kind of order. A stout defence was made in the quarter of SS. Peter and Paul, in front of the Cathedral Church of the Greeks, and in the two narrow streets near tlu; Greek bishop's house ; and here were killed very many (ireek monks and priests, and also, it is said, two bishops. We went to find Signer Tutio Constanzo to act as our leader and guide, and being now assembled in some number we moved towards the s(iuare : here we met a crowd of villagers running away, who disheartened our e-scort. The Reverend Provincial of the Carmini and I took a great cross and exhorted them as earnestly as possible, now addressing the infantry, now the horsemen. But though we spent two whole hours in haranguing them, and putting before them all the troubles which followed, we did little good; and this for two reasons, one because the Pasha, seeing the tremendous slaughter, bid them surrender and thus save their lives : many fools among us believed him, and threw down their arms, stripping themselves even of what they wanted for their defence. The second, because some fiend or other put it into the hearts of the Italians and (Greeks to burst open the Bemba gate, and fly towards the mountains and Cerines As soon as it was open many rushed out, but many were killed by the Turkish cavalry" others were made prisoners, and few escaped. Gioan Fillipo Lusignano fled to the hills with M. Flatro di Flatri, Zanetto de Nores, Hector his son, and Alfonso Bragadmo. Meanwhile a few brave men with great swords defended the Pisani square and that of the Palace I think the fight must have lasted some seven or eight hours. Before this Andrea J Wo" a Patrician of Venice, sought out the Lieutenant, and finding him in front of the 140 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Palace said, " Have you gone so far as this, to give our city into the enemy's hand ? Here, I say, we have the traitor ! " He put his hand to his sword to slay him, but Dandolo cried out " kill, kill," and his halberdiers killed Pesaro before his blow fell. And now they opened the Famagosta gate, the Turkish cavalry entered, the city was filled with foes, and everyone rushed to plunder. Paolo del Guasto turned the cannon on the bastion near San Luca, and stood on the defensive. The Lieutenant called the assistant of the Chancery into the office of the Grand Chancellor, and made him write to bid the Turks stay their swords, for he would surrender the city upon condition that the persons and property of the inhabitants remained in safety, the Sultan binding himself to allow all the Christians still in his hands to go to their homes. This was thought somewhat hard by the enemy, but as soon as our soldiers were disarmed they set themselves with more savagery and rapacity than ever to take prisoners and sack houses, killing everyone whom they found with arms. The palace had still some brave defenders, who with their great swords avenged themselves on the enemy, who now thronged its upper rooms. They made the Turks jump down from the windows, and enjoyed for a while the vengeance they wreaked and the clearance they made ; but they were few and were killed at last, and the enemies remained masters of the building. Then, the story runs, a drunken Greek hoisted over the palace the Turkish standard, pulling down that of S. Mark. The Lieutenant was taken, his head cut olf and sent to the Commandant at Cerines, who forthwith surrendered quietly, without risking an engagement. Yet the Turks would have had a hard task, on account of the mountains between Cerines and Nicosia, which are almost impassable to artillery. Mustafa then sent the head to Famagosta, where the Commandant replied that he desired to see the Pasha under his walls, and with spirited retorts and brave deeds to prove to him his valour. Bishop Contarini was taken in the palace by a talisman or Turkish Monk, who accepted his promises and meant to save his life, but in hopes of richer prey left him and went within to the coffers and storerooms : thus abandoned there came upon him a janissary who struck him on the head with a scimitar. I sought for him many times, and was told that he died on a little island called Stinco, near Rhodes. And now indeed that terrible roar of artillery and musketry ceased to thunder in our ears ; but the change was a sad and mournful one, for on every side we heard nothing but the ceaseless wailing of poor women parted from their husbands, the shrieks of children torn from their mothers' arms, the sighs of the wretched fathers which mounted to the very heavens, the cries of maidens and lads who saw themselves separated from their parents, one driven this way, another that, in irremediable division. All had their hands bound behind them, they were pushed and hurried with blows from sticks and sword hilts, many had an arm lopped off, or a skull cleft open. Any man or woman who resisted was killed. The victors kept cutting off the heads of old women ; many of them as they marched along to prove their swords split open the heads of men who had already surrendered. Did a prisoner try to escape, he was caught up and his legs cut off, and as long as any life was left in him every janissary who passed had a cut at him. Among the slain were Lodovico Podochatoro, and Lucretia Calepia, my mother, whose head they cut off on her serving maid's lap. They tore infants in swaddling clothes from their mothers' breasts, dashed some down on the ground, others by the feet against a wall : of whom I could baptise only one. To be brief, this sack lasted three days. Churches were desecrated, altars stripped, sacred pictures burnt, tombs torn open, and those who took refuge in the churches slain. One piece of savagery I saw, that wherever the Turks met swine they CALEPIO. 141 drove them off with darts and swordcuts, so that we saw a human body along with that of a pig. As they themselves owned, they enriched themselves to such an extent that never since the sack of Constantinople had they won so vast a treasure, as well of things sacred, as those of common use. Pietro Paolo Sinclitico, Captain of the hill troops, Scipion Caraffa, Gioane Sinclitico came in at once from the mountains to surrender, and Mustafa clothed them from top to toe in brocade. The Countess of Tripoli, without stirring from her house or seeing the Pasha, gave herself up with all her family. She set before her door her coaches and carts, and part of her three hundred soldiers, telling the besiegers that they were Mustafa's prisoners. He accepted her lavish promises and rich gifts, but kept after all little or no faith with her, and her household met perhaps the hardest fate of all. He sent Hector Podochatoro her brother from his tent to Nicosia to be tended by doctors, and had his head cut oif on the road. The rest of these prisoners, with the Countess' treasures, were put on a lighter, nor is it known where they are : some say they were drowned. The naval commanders, with the men whom they brought up from the galleys, returned quickly from Nicosia to Salines, fearing the arrival of our fleet. They had news from their spies that it was refitting in Candia. Thence we may take it to be certain that if our ships had moved the Turks would not have sent up the twenty-five thousand men from the galleys, and Nicosia would not have been taken. And this fear lay yet upon the mind of Mustafa Pasha, for as soon as he had taken the city he began with all speed to repair the breaches with sacks and boxes, and to prepare it to resist an attack, filling up the ditches, bringing the guns within the walls, and destroying the forts. They collected forthwith the accursed carcases of the Turks, burning them and their souls in hell, and left for the nonce the Christian corpses, which later they caused to be carried by slaves and thrown into certain houses, when they were set on fire and burned. They began to clear out S. Sophia, the Latin Cathedral, and arrange it after their own fashion, removing the choir, destroying the altars and so forth. On the following Friday, September 15, the day called Junm, which they keep as a Sunday, the Pasha went with his suite to worship God, as their wont is on that day, and to thank Him for so great a victory. 1 was anxious to return into the city to see what had been done there, and said to those who took me that I had much money buried underground, and as I was led in I saw how the bastions were repaired : I saw too many pieces of artillery, struck on the muzzle by our shots and disabled. The houses and palaces were occupied ; grain, beans, wool, cotton, hams, bacon scattered over the ground, and many other things strewn about the streets : what they could not carry away or eat they trod underfoot, and in the cellars they burst open the casks of wine and oil. There was nothing sacred or profane which was not overturned, as they sought out and hoped to find some treasure. The city stank fearfully from the bodies of men and swine which had been exposed for nearly five days to the burmng sun. To me mdeed it was a spectacle more terrible and mournful than that of the day of the attack, to look on human corpses, swollen, some without arms, others without a head, others agam disem- bowelled, noseless, brained or full of wounds. They made us carry here and carry there the thinjjs which they had stolen in the attacks, and although the papa, or Turkish priest who took me saved me from four or Hve blows aimed at me by some janissaries whom we met on the way while I was a prisoner and bound, still on reaching the tents I was sharply threatened by his companions, who stripped me to the shirt and even took from me a rosary worth a couple of sous, leaving me with a shirt, a pair of cotton drawers and socks, and a hat which Bishop Contarini left to me when he donned his helmet. \Mien evening came they bound me like a culprit ready for execution, and 1 made sure of a martyr's fate, and com- 1-12 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. mended myself to my Chi'istian fellow-captives, to encourage them to endure firm and brave in the faith. Then they took to binding certain Italians, and so went on fastening all the men in a line, and made us sit down. The day after the capture of the city was held a general bazar or auction of the spoil. First were sold the good looking youths and pretty girls, the buyers taking no thought or count of their noble birth, but only of the beauty of their faces. The rest of the men were sold at extremely low prices, though something more was paid for those who were fit for work in the galleys. In the same day they made a division of the spoil, and I wondered much to see them sell some most precious gem for a very small sum. A thing worth a hundred sequins they gave for four : they knew as little about pearls and precious stones as pigs do : anyone who had some little knowledge bought valuable objects for next to nothing, and made a fortune. Then they began to outrage children and women, and such as were firm in their resistance they tortured and killed. When Nicosia was invested the inhabitants were registered, and their number found to be six thousand five hundred souls : of these few were of any use as combatants. Once there were thirteen hundred Italians, but at a pinch these were only four hundred, for very many died before the siege, and the rest in the attacks. Cypriot nobles and burghers with their servants numbered fifteen hundred, foot soldiers raised in the city two thousand six hundred, those of Giacomo Zaccharia and Muscorno, who were villagers, seven hundred and fifty. There were the Stradiots, and the other cavalry of the feudatories and pensioners, and five hundred more regular cavalry, but they were not used. Though the city had had ammu- nition and victuals for a two years' siege it was badly administered, and the disorders, and the obstinacy of its commander reduced it to so disgraceful an end. The enemy on the other hand was working with a hundred thousand men, including the ten thousand cavalry, but not the twenty-five thousand men who were brought up from the galleys for the last attack. Some however said there were only four thousand horses, with many mares, and a great number of mules, saddled and equipped as horses, which served in action as well as the best horses; these they brought across on horseboats, lighters and palmidre, two to each galley, the rest on ships and larger vessels. It was said too that the janissaries were only six thousand, and the sipahis only four thousand. If this cruel disparity of numbers, the fewness of our trained soldiers and our bad leadership should account for our easy defeat, let any soldier of skill and experience decide ; and let such consider too how those who retired to Famagosta, where they had most prudent leaders and the best handling, in the company of the brave Italian soldiers behaved (as everyone says, and especially Count Nestor Martinengo in his report made to the Signory of Venice) like brave warriors, often risking their lives not only in sorties and sallies, but also in attack. I know very well that for the shortcomings and sins of the people God sends such scourges, as saith the prophet Amos (eh. ix. 8), " Behold, the eyes of the Lord God are upon the sinful kingdom, and I will destroy it from off the face of the earth." I know also how the sins of Princes are a cause of the ruin of kingdoms; as saith Isaiah (ch. xxiv. 1, 5), "Behold, the Lord maketh the earth empty and maketh it waste . . . because they have transgressed the laws, changed the ordinance, broken the everlasting covenant." And Ecclesiasticus (ch. x. 8), "Because of unrighteous dealings, injuries and riches got by deceit, the kingdom is translated from one people to another." But as all the world can see the justice, piety, and zeal in defending our holy faith of my august masters, the care with which they strive to make their dependencies obedient to Holy Church, the affection and courtesy they show to their vassals and subjects, their war CALEPIO. 143 against sin and hatred thereof may well excuse and defend them. I will dare however to say in defence of the just judgment of Grod, and His irreprehensible Providence, which willed such ruin and destruction, that satisfaction might be made to His justice, provoked by the disorders, disobedience and rebellion of this His realm, that God does as do temporal lords, sending armies against those who rise in gainsaying and revolt. As indeed it is clear that when there rose in rebellion against the Church of Rome, which is the Head of Christ's kingdom, the Patriarchal Church of Alexandria, the Church of Antioch, the holy Church of Jerusalem, and that of Constantinople, with all their members, speedily enough God sent as a scourge these infidel ministers of the Divine justice, who enslaved them all, changed their ceremonies into execrable superstitions, the churches into mosques, the Gospel into the Qoran, destroyed their sway, laid low their dignity, profaned the sacraments, and left their faith entombed, so it behoved God to do to this kingdom, where there were sundry sects of old heretics, and Greeks too who swore fealty to the Holy Roman Church, as is evident in the Church of Alexandria. Yet when the most Reverend Archbishop Filippo Moccionico returned from the Council of Trent, and like a most watchful shepherd, with all diplomacy and modesty, urged them to accept the sacred Oecumenical Council of Trent, with no little warmth they refused to yield, and proved how deadlj"- was the venom of disobedience hidden deep in their hearts. Everyone can see the hatred they bore to the dogmas of the Latin Church, and knows that they held it to be heretical. Hence they would not allow any Latin to celebrate upon their altars, but held their priests to be profane persons, and when the Chiefs of the State desired to hear mass in their churches, they made portable altars. And through all the time up to the siege what did not the poor Archbishop suffer ! How he kept exhorting the Greeks, Armenians, Copts and Maronites, Jacobites and Nestorians ! and yet many times these Greeks laid snares for him. Witness the arras which they carried under their cloaks to extirpate the Latins! They would never accept the Council nor its decrees, nor the eighth Council of Florence. Nay, the Greek bishop Loara said to me openly, when I was sent by the said Archbishop to enlighten him and exhort him to obey our Holj'^ Church, and fulfil his oath — " My son (he said) there are bounds set between us Greeks and you Latins, and the cures are divided between us and the flocks, so that on me lies the care of my (xreeks, and on your Archbishop of the Latins. The eighth and ninth Councils were held concerning matters in question among you Latins, but they have nothing to do with us." Did not the Archbishop give him a citation to appear at Rome ? But he came to Venice, and did not go on to Rome, the Signory sending him back boasting of the rich present it had given him. Did not God clearly visit him with His vengeance, and the punishment of his rebellion ? For as .soon as he returned to Venice he died suddenly, that this schism might not spread, although he said that he acted herein out of respect for the people. But God applied the better remedy. It is a just thing that the same crime should suffer the same punishment. Yet the crime was a happy one, for it brought to the birth that great and much desired, most necessary and most useful fruit, the signing of the Holy League. And when the dragon of the sea put on so great presumption, on October 7 of the next year he was taken with the hook of God's right hand. The goodness of God failed not at sundry times and in divers manners to foretell this destruction of Cyprus. It was scourged for many years with such swarms of locusts that they ate even the stems of trees. In 1556, on the morning of S. Mark's day, He sent a terrible earthquake in the city of Limisso; in Famagosta too a whirlwind, which destroyed a palace and two other houses, and caught up some men from the street, and whirled them into the air, and let them fall on the roofs, and if it had not been quickly cut, as sailors use at sea, 144 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. the whole city would have been in ruins. Again the next year a little before the feast of S. Mark God sent awful earthquakes, which lasted continually for fifty-three days, and then went on for two years, with intervals of eight, twelve, twenty days ; or in alternate months, five or eight shocks at a time : and some of them were so serious that they were felt almost throughout the island. At the same time there occurred in the city of Baffo some few shocks, which were not felt at Limisso, nor in the village of Lefcara and its neighbourhood. Then too were seen at night certain great flames in the air, lasting for two or three hours, and visible in many places. In 1569 followed some eight or ten earthquakes at Famagosta at the end of October, and then, or even before 1568, there appeared in the summer large flocks of locust birds, cranes and geese ; great flights of them kept coming from Syria and traversing Cyprus, and all that summer their noise was ever with us, which many took to be of evil omen. Lastly He sent us the comet of November, 1569, whose tail pointed down towards Cyprus, a clear sign of the sword of God. On September 17 or 18 Mustafa Pasha made his host march towards Famagosta, and left to garrison Nicosia four thousand janissaries and a thousand cavalry under the command of Muzaffer Pasha. He caused the guns to be dragged by his own Turks, and the troops set out in great triumph, and with musicians to show their joy : they bore away also the artillery found in Nicosia. Mustafa pitched his own camp three miles from Famagosta, in the village Pomo d'Adam, the rest went to the gardens of Famagosta. As soon as his troops were rested he set them to cut trenches and make forts with fascines, sacks and earth, and thence they tried to disable such Venetian vessels as were in the harbour, Avith the idea of cutting off our folk from the hope of flight, such as by means of these they might compass in the coming winter : but our side was ready with a large counterwork to dismantle theirs, and so forced them to abandon their plan. In the meanwhile, while we were imprisoned here we saw some of our men make a sortie, which proved fatal to many Turks. Ali Pasha had now heard from his spies that the Christian fleet had refitted, and, rein- forced by some Sphakiot archers, had already left Candia. With fear at heart he came at once to confer with Mustafa Pasha, General of the land forces. They waited here for fresh news, and on the arrival of some of his galliots learned that the Christian fleet was on its way to Castel Huso, whereat these dogs took fright, and retired to the tent of Mustafa Pasha to consider what they ought to do. Ali and Piali persuaded Mustafa to march away from Famagosta ; leaving the booty, slaves, and useless mouths guarded by soldiers and cannon ; so that if the Christian ships showed a desire to fight, they might do their best to maintain the greatness and dignity of their sovereign, and not decline an engagement. The com- manders, with the whole squadron arrived at Limisso, and off Cape San Piffanio despatched two galleys to get news of our fleet. As soon as they were quite sure that it had turned back to Candia, these wretches, who dreaded that they might lose a battle, greeted the joyful news with music and feasting a whole day through. Mustafa returned to Famagosta, comforted and reassured his men, and then all set to embarking the booty and captives. On October 3, while certain barrels of powder were being carried on board the great galleon of Mehmed Pasha they exploded, and in the twinkling of an eye destroyed the vessel, setting fire also to a galliot and a caramussalli, and sending an indescribable scare through the fleet. In a moment we saw so many noble youths and maidens hoist into the air, a spectacle of incomparable sadness. The Turks sought to know who was the author of the deed, and how it happened, but they could never learn anything, for not one soul escaped of those who were on the galleon, and two or three only from the other two ships. They took it as the presage of some great misfortune which should befall them. To my great wonder CALEPIO. 145 I heard it said that a noble Cypriot lady set fire to the powder: but it is true that this galleon contained a large number of very handsome youths and lovely women, set aside as an offering to the Sultan, to Mehmed Pasha, and Murad the Sultan's son. On the sixth the naval commanders sailed for Constantinople, leaving eight galleys and a few other craft. Arrived at Castel Ruso, they made sure that the Christian fleet had touched there, and when we reached Rhodes they knew that the Western Squadron had parted from that of Venice. To be quite certain they sent some galliots to Cape Colonna for news, and at the same time the Pashas left behind the spoil, the children and women, moving the whole fleet to Stambalia, whence other galliots were despatched for news. Their purpose was to attack the Venetian ships, but God, whom the winds and seas obey, willed that the presumption of this dog should be laid low, and stirred a storm, so that they could scarcely make the harbour. The Pashas finding that but few ships followed them dismissed several captains. On returning to Rhodes they re-embarked all they had left. Here another large vessel was burnt, and a galley broke up as it was leaving the harbour. They arrived at Suassara, and began to block the harbour mouth with fascines, with the idea of wintering there, but finally resolved to return to Constantinople. Then leaving ships to guard the Archipelago and *Scio, on December 14 they anchored before Constantinople, with great rejoicing and many salutes, to which the Serai, the Topkhane aiul Arsenal replied : the Christian flags were dragged along the water, and so many boats crowded round, just as on Ascension Day at Venice. I must not fail, as one ungrateful and heedless of the rare and precious blessings, and tender love of our fjord Jesus Christ towards me, to say with Jacob, " I am not worthy of the least of all Thy mercies" (Genesis xxxii. 10), and to tell how I was saved from so many musket shots, guarded in so many perils, preserved from so many swords : how I was taken prisoner by a talisman or Turkish monk, and sold to Osman Chelibi, the Rais or Captain of a galley ; how the mercy and loving kindness of our (iod made me at once to find favour with this fierce dog, and when I was fearing to be chained to the oar, as happened to other nobles and persons of every condition, he first left me at liberty, at my prayer bought my two sisters, bid everycme be gentle witli me, and made his own pages bring me food from his own table ; often for his amusement he made me eat with him, allotted to me and my sisters an excellent place under cover wherein to sleep, gave us slave-girls and coverlets, and at last after setting a big price upon me was satisfied with four thousand five hundred aspers, though 1 had first to pay twenty-five sequins to his Kiaya or steward, a renegade. These sums were paid out of the four hundred scudi, the noble present sent me by Pope Pius V., of happy inemory, through the pious hands of my (ieneral, M. Serafino Cavalli, my most tender father and author of the ransom of myself and my companions, so that on January 8 of the following year I was absolutely free. Nevertheless on February 3 of 1572 I was put into the savage hands of Uluj Ali as a Papal spy, and thrown into the Grand Turk's prison, loaded with chains, and destined to the torture. And straightway our good God stirred to fire the charity of my noble friends of Ragusa, who helped me, openly with gifts, and secretly with large sums of money, partly given me, partly lent, so that on the third day, by the help of Ababamach, the new king of Algiers, 1 was freed without further suffering, and at last received leave to depart, by the help and singular favour of Signer Jacomo Malatesta, and my most worthy patron the Right Reverend Monsignor d'Aquis, Ambassador of the most Christian King, who, so difficult was it to obtain this leave, thrice had speech of Mehmed l>asha, Vazir of the Knipire. And so with all reason can I say, " Now I know of truth that the Lord hath sent forth His angel and delivered me out of the hand of Uluj All, and from all the expectation of the people of the Turks"; wherefore, " unto the King eternal, 19 146 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. incorruptible, invisible, the only God, be honour and glory for ever and ever, Amen," " Who delivered me out of the power of darkness, and translated me into the kingdom of the Son of His love" (Acts xii. 11, 1 Tim. i. 17, Col. i. 13). Head Quartei's at Nicosia. Nicola Dandolo, Lieutenant of the Realm and Vice-Proveditor, beheaded. Pietro Pisani, Councillor, killed by a musket ball. Marc Antonio Priuli, Councillor, enslaved. Antonio Pasqualigo, Chamberlain, died. Giovan Longo, Chamberlain, enslaved in Constantinople. Bernardo Bollani, Captain of Salines, enslaved. Vicenzo Malipiero, Yice-Captain of Paffo, died at Scio. The Grand-Chancellor died ; and his brother Almorone, Master of the Ordnance, died. Noble Cypriot Captains died. Count de Ruchas, Coadjutor of the Realm, and General of the Cypriot cavalry Count de Tripoli, General of artillery Thomas, Viscount of Nicosia, and captain of two hundred foot soldiers Hector Podocatoro Jason de Nores Francesco Maria de Nores Ugo Flatro Mantio Zimblet Gioan Filippo Milano Giovanni Sinclitico Meaducha Dimitri Laschari Giovan Flatro Cav. Paleologo Febo Zappe Artius Zappe, who succeeded Signor Febo, his brother Jacomo Zacharia Filippo Laschari Noble Cypriot Captains enslaved. Tutio Constanzo Livio Podocatoro Giovan Muscorno Orsato Giustiniano Sosomenino, an engineer Captains of the hill troops restored to freedom. Scipio Caraffa Pietro Paolo Sinclitico s. s. J) J) ?) 5) J) J) J) J) J5 5) 7) 5) 5) ?) s. s. » 5) ?! s. s. J) CALEPIO. 147 Italian Captains died. Colonel Ronchoii, Governor of the City „ Palazzo da Fano Count Alberto Scotto Captain Nicolo Paleotti, of Bologna „ Lazaro Cocuban „ Giovan de Oglio „ Gabriel de Bergamo „ Battista „ Zangravi „ Urban de Vital di „ Anibal Zangravi Cav. Magriiio, an Engineer Captain Antonio Beretino „ Camillo de Gadi „ -Michail Griti „ (hovan Batista de San Coluban „ Batista da Fan „ Calo da Rimini „ Giovan Andrea Spello „ Battista delli Preti „ Antonio (xioi-gi „ ZrUieto Dandolo „ 'riioinaso de Grazu, of Famagosta Italian Captains, of whom it is not known whether they are alive or dead. Captain Giulian Gustaldo „ Leonardo da Borgo „ -Marc' Antonio Pascello „ Jacomo Grazzo „ Celio da Todi „ (riovan Battista Calluro „ Francesco Pattello „ Fabrici de Imola ,, Anibal, of Albano „ (iiiiliano, of Venice „ Hieronimo da Sascil „ Paolo Vicentino Italian Captains, enslaved. Captain Paolo del Guasto „ Francesco de Laura „ Cieco da Perosa „ Giovan Angelo, remained at Cerines „ Carlo Ragunasco, fled to the hills, and then went to Famagosta and was taken prisoner The Captains of the Stradiots and their Commander were nearly all cut to pieces with their companies. 19—2 148 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Noble Cypriots who fled from Nicosia to the hills, passing through the enemy's midst. S. S. Giovan Filippo Lusignano „ Zanetto de Nores „ Hettor de Nores „ Flatro de Flatri „ Alfonso Bragadino The rest of the nobles were nearly all slain, but very few of them being made prisoners : so too with the citizens and populace. The gentlemen and citizens' wives were nearly all made prisoners, with their sons and daughters, very few being killed. Little children of four years and under were nearly all killed, very few being made prisoners. Clergy died. The Right Rev. Bishop Contarini, of Balfo „ „ „ Bishop of Coron, Suffragan of Nicosia „ „ „ Greek Bishop of Nicosia „ „ „ Greek Bishop of Paffo „ „ „ Greek Bishop of Limisso, enslaved „ „ „ Coptic Bishop Rev. Monsignor Fra Thomaso Tacito, of the Order of Hermits, Vicar of the Archie- piscopate, all the Rev. Canons and other dignitaries in the city, and nearly all the priests and monks were killed, few being made prisoners. Head of Religious Orders. The Rev. Vicar General of the Dominican Monks, Father Angelo Calepio, a slave at Constantinople. „ „ Provincial of the Carmini, M. Nicolo, a slave in Syria. „ „ Guardian of the Zoccolanti of Jerusalem, a slave at Scio, was released. [Fr. Gian-francesco d'Arsignano, Custode di Terra Santa, died at Vicenza, 1589.] „ „ Commissary of S. Francis, M. Andrea Tacito, said to be dead. „ „ Vicar of S. Augustine, Fr, Luca, enslaved, and now free. The Reverend Abbots of the Greek monasteries, with their monks, were nearly all killed, but few being made prisoners. THE END. CALEPIO. 149 A true and most exact Narrative of the Conquest and Defence of Famagosta compiled by the Reverend Father, Fr. Angiolo Calepio, of Cyprus a Doctor in Theology of the Order of Preachers, at the instance of the Reverend Father, Fr. Stefano Lusignano, a Reader in the same Order. Fra Ajjgelo Calepio, of Cyprus, of the Order of S. Dominic, a poor divine, TO HIS courteous AND KIND READERS. Be it known that the narrative of the conquest and defence of the city of Famagosta was compiled from the memoirs of many captains present in Cyprus at the defence of that stronghold, who are now in the prison and tower of the Great Turk, which I, being arrested in February 1572 by the order of Kilij Ali, as a spy of our lord the Pope, while I was in durance with them collected with all care : and this verified by themselves, and by the accounts of many other persons, I offer you as genuine and true, and lifted above every kind of passion. And thus I make an end, exhorting all to pray the Lord for me, and for those poor defenders who are still in captivity : and for you I implore every temporal comfort, and happiness in eternity. From Bologna, November 10, 1572. Immediately after the capture of Nicosia the naval commander Ali Pasha marched away and re-embarked his troops at Salines on September 11, 1570, when the fleet sailed for Cape della Grea. On September 18, Mustafa, General of the army at Nicosia, left a garrison in that city, and encamped before Famagosta. He was anxious to swallow up quickly the whole kingdom, of which Famagosta only remained unsubdued, and on the 23rd he caused a fort to be built near the little rock, to batter the city as well as the ships which were on our side. It was completed in three days, and on the 26th a few cannon shots were fired. On the 29th they built two other forts, one at the fountain of S. George, the other at Precipolla ; on these they mounted a few pieces of artillery and on October 1 opened fire. Our men were prompt in harassing them, and on the 3rd the whole camp retired to the village Porno d'Adamo, three miles away. The great galley of Mehmed Pasha, full of artillery and ammunition, was burnt about three miles off Famagosta. After this our troops made a sally on the 8th, and did their best to destroy the forts and trenches. So far nothing had happened of particular moment, but on November 3 there arrived a Turk with two fine horses and a lady of Nicosia. Some people were afraid he had been sent by the Pasha with some mischievous intent: many however knew that he was flying for his life. A man of Famagosta was assigned to him as interpreter. The Turk got drunk, drew a knife which he had in his sleeve and killed him. For this murder he was hanged on December 7. On the 30th the Turks brought four pieces of artillery to S. Alessio. On January 23, 1571, we descried four vessels with infantry and ammunition, and on the following morning twelve of our galleys and a frigate arrived, and landed the garrison, victuals and ammunition. 150 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. On the 27th our galleys captured a Turkish palaudra with the pay of the camp ; and on the 29th the same galleys took a Turkish vessel full of ammunition and victuals. On February 16 the twelve galleys and seven ships left for Candia. The Christians held a general muster, and reckoned in all four thousand infantry, eight hundred Gernide, three thousand citizens and peasants, and two hundred Albanians. With greater diligence than ever they set to fortifying themselves on every side, the whole garrison, the city and the very chiefs working and shrinking from no toil to encourage the rest. Night and day the posts were visited, to see that the city was guarded with all watchfulness. No sallies were made, except now and then to get news of the enemy. While these precautions were taken within, with no less zeal the enemy without was collecting everything necessary for storming the fortress, sacks of wool, carriages for the guns, labourers' tools and the like, which were brought over in vast quantities and with great promptness from Caramania and Syria. On March 14 five Turkish galleys were wrecked by a storm within the harbour : on the other hand on the 22nd a magazine of cotton, close to our powder store, took fire. At the beginning of April, Ali Pasha came with perhaps eighty galleys, and brought over what the enemy still required. He sailed again, leaving thirty which kept crossing over with men, ammunition, stores, and every other necessary. Nor have I reckoned a large number of caramussalini, lighters and palandre which were ever going and coming to and from the neighbouring ports, making rapid voyages through fear of the Christian fleet. In the middle of April they brought fifteen pieces of artillery from Nicosia, and shifting their ground they dug fosses and trenches and encamped in the gardens, some of them going further to the west beyond a place called Precipolla. On the 16th the enemy held a general parade, and from the city the defenders fired two shots with a culverin of sixty pounds, which reached their host and did no small damage. On the 26th they began to make fresh trenches, and to dig fosses for their musketeers, one close to another, creeping up in such a way that nothing could be done to prevent them, and working incessantly, for the most part at night, with forty thousand pioneers. When the defenders saw the plan of the enemy, and where they contemplated their attack, they did all they possibly could to strengthen the position. A strong guard was kept posted in the covered way of the counter- scarp and in the salleyports to defend the counterscarp, new flanks were dug out, traverses were made on the platforms; and all along the wall where it sustained the Turkish fire a trench was made of brick, two feet high and of the same breadth, with loopholes for the musketeers who defended the counterscarp. Signor Bragadino looked after these matters in person, with Signor Estor Baglione. The order throughout was excellent : all the bread for the soldiers was made in one place under the care of the Captain of Baffo, Messer Lorenzo Tiepolo, who spared neither himself nor others in the work. In the citadel was M. Andrea Bragadino, who was carefully guarding the side towards the sea, arranging and digging out new flanks to defend the parts about the Arsenal. Cav. Fuoito was captain of the artillery : he fell about this time in a skirmish, and his company was given to Count Nestor Martinengo. Three captains were told off to superintend the fireworks, each with twenty men to handle the grenades. All the serviceable men were brought over to the side where the cannonade was expected, and mantlets were provided for all the embrasures. Frequent sorties were made on difi^erent sides to harass the enemy, and great loss was thus inflicted on them. In one, three hundred men of Famagosta, with swords and shields, and as many Italian musketeers, went forth, but the Christian loss was very heavy, for the enemy's trenches were too close together, and although the Turks were put to flight and many of them were slain, they came on in such numbers that our side lost thirty killed and sixty wounded, and it was CALEPIO. 151 decided that the risk was too great, and that no further sallies should be made. The enemy- crept up slowly and pushed their trenches to the crest of the counterscarp. They had completed their forts, and on May 19 commenced a cannonade from ten of them, containing in all seventy-four pieces of large calibre, among them being four basilisks of enormous size. The works attacked lay between the Limisso gate and the Arsenal, and five distinct cannon- ades were made, one against the great tower of the Arsenal, upon which they fired with the five guns in the fort on the rock : a second against the curtain of the Arsenal, from a fort mounting eleven guns : a third against the great tower of the Antruci and the two cavaliers above it, from a fort also mounting eleven guns : a fourth against the great tower of S. Nappa, upon which they directed the four basilisks. The Limisso gate, which had a high cavalier above, and a ravelin outside, was battered from the counterworks with thirty-three cannon, the general of the host, Mustafa, being himself present. An hour before dawn they fired a great volley from their arquebuses, and then began their cannonade. This lasted all day, and people thought they hred two thousand five hundred shots ; part fell on the walls, part in the city, and some passed beyond. The .same night an Albanian slave came in, and reported that up to that time our artillery had killed three thousand Turks. On the 20th, an hour Ijefore day, they began as before with a volley and cannonade, but hardly with so great fury : on the 21st the same, and so throughout the day. Our Stradiots went out near the tower called dp.U' Occha, and slew seventy-two Turks. On the 22nd, again a volley and cannonade, the latter so furious that it was thought they fired a thousand shots. At first they did not try so much to batter the walls, but aimed at our guns, and fired into the city ; on this account as soon as the firing began, all the soldiers and Greeks came and took up their quarters on the walls, where they remained to the end. Messer Bragadino lodged in the great tower of the Antruci, Messer Baglione in that of S. Nappa, Messer Tiepolo in that of the Campo Santo, so that they were with their men at all the posts of danger, and put courage into them all. Had this been so at Nicosia, that city would have been defended and held .some days more, and probably woidd not have been lost. On the 24th they fired up to the nineteenth hour, then came a very heavy rain : as soon as this was over, the Turks advanced to enter the ditch where the place allowed of an encounter, and many of them died there. A shot from a cainu)n killed Captain Francescho Francavilla. On the 25th at the twenty-third hour the Pasha sent a janissary with two letters, one to the Captain of Famagosta, the other to the Captain of Batto. Signor Estor Baglione went to see what the janissary wanted, and when he saw these letters he would not listen to him, but said, "Tell your Pasha to continue his enterprise, and we will reply with fire, muskets, cannon and swords": and the soldiers, in derision, all began to shout "Hurrah for S. Mark." On the following day after a brisk cannonade there was found in the ditch an arrow all over writing, saying, "yield you, ye nu-n of Famagosta, for ye shall be safe, ye, your wives and your sons " That day the Count of Cazol was struck, and a lieutenant and an ensign died. Signer Louigi Martinengo was set over the artillery, who divided the post among six captains, who took upon tlu'.nselves all the d.ities of bombardiers, assigning to each post a company of Greeks to serve the guns. Captain Francesco Bagona was on duty at the great tower and cavalier of the Arsenal: Captain Pieroc.mte on the curtain and cavalier de Volti: Signor Nestor MartiiuMigo at the cavalier of the Campo Santo, at that of the Antruci, and the curtain as far as the great tower of S. Nappa : Count Hercule Martinengo at the cavalier of S Nappa, and all the curtain up to the Limisso gate: Captain Oratio da Veletn on the ravelin and curtain towards the bastion: and on the high cavalier of Limisso winch sustained the fiercest battering, Captain Kuberto Malve.zi. All kinds of victuals were 152 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. brought up to the walls ; for ten days the Christians returned cannonade for cannonade, dis- abled fifteen of the enemy's best guns, and killed up to date thirty thousand Turks. But seeing that powder was failing, it was arranged that each day not more than thirty shots should be fired from thirty pieces, and those in the presence of their several captains, so that no shot should be wasted. On May 29 a frigate arrived from Candia, which filled the whole city with hopes of assistance, and put everybody in excellent spirits. The enemy, after a sharp fight and great losses on both sides, won the counterscarp. Thereupon to meet the fire of the five batteries, they began to throw up the earth in the ditch, digging close to the wall of the counterscarp : but all this earth and the debris torn from the walls by the artillery was carried inside by the defenders, who all worked day and night until the enemy made certain loopholes in the wall through which they swept all the ditch with musket fire, and made it impossible for the defenders to go down with impunity. M. Griovan Mormori, the Engineer, contrived a kind of shield of planks joined together, under which men could work sheltered from shot. With this they recovered some ground, but not much, and Messer Griovan died. When the Turks had thrown up so much earth that it reached the top of the ditch, they made an opening in the wall of the counterscarp, and little by little throwing up the soil in front of it they made a traverse up to the walls on two sides reaching all the batteries. This they afterwards widened with sacks of wool and fascines, and secured themselves from our flanking fire. Once masters of the ditch, and safe from attack except by chance from above, they began to undermine the ravelin, the great tower of S. Nappa, and those of the Antruci and the Campo Santo, and the curtain and tower of the Arsenal. The Christians could no longer avail themselves of these flanks ; they began to throw grenades, and did very great damage. They tried to set fire to the wool and faggots, and gave a ducat a sack for each one destroyed. They countermined in all directions, under the orders of Cav. Maggio, the Engineer, who at every need showed all possible zeal and courage, but they did not meet except under the towers of S. Nappa, 1' Antruci and Campo Santo, and these were empty. Many times by day and night the defenders went out into the ditch to discover the mines, and set fire to the fascines and wool ; and so wonderful was the industrious zeal of Signor Baglione, who took thought for all these things, that without rest or truce, with all manner of ingenious devices, the enemy was harassed. He divided the companies according to the batteries, adding at each post a company of Albanians, who whether serving as horse or foot always displayed great courage. First Assault. On June 21 they fired the mine under the great tower of the Arsenal, under the directions of Janpulad Bey: it shattered the wall, which was of great thickness, breached it and brought down more than half of it, splitting also a part of the parapet, which had been made to project and bear the brunt of an assault. Immediately a great band of Turks mounted on the ruins with their standards and reached the top. Captain Pietro Conte was on guard there with his company which was much shaken by the explosion. Signor Nestor Martinengo came up first with his company, and the enemy, though reinforced five or six times, was driven back, and could not accomplish his purpose. Signor Baglione fought there in person. Messer Bragadino with Messer Querini stood armed a little way off, cheering on the soldiers. The Commandant with the artillery of Sperone inflicted great loss on the enemy during the attack, which lasted for five hours without a break. The Turks lost six hundred men, and the Christian dead and wounded were a hundred. An accident with some grenades carelessly handled burnt many of the latter. Among the killed were Count Gian Francesco Goro, CALEPIO. 153 Captain Bernardino of Gubio : Signer Hercole Malatesta, Captain Pietro Conte and other captains and ensigns were hadly woimded by stones. The next night a frigate arrived from Candia which brought iiews of sure and speedy help, and filled the city with delight and courage. Under the orders of Captain Marco Crivelatore and Cav. Maggio shelters were constructed alongside all the breaches, and whei-ever they heard mines being dug, with casks and sacks full of moist earth, boxes and mattresses : the Greeks brought with great readiness all they had, for the sacking was used up, and they fetched chair-backs, curtains, carpets and even their sheets to make these sacks. This was an excellent and speedy way of restoring the parapets, which were destroyed by the furious and unceasing cannonade. What was battered during the day was repaired during the night : the soldiers took no sleep, and stood always on the walls, visited constantly by their officers, who slept cmly during the hottest hours of the day, the only time they had for rest, for the enemy kept calling eveiy moment " to arms," so as to leave us no breathing space. Second Assault. On June 29 they fired the mine made in the stonework of the ravelin, which shattered everything, and did immense damage, allowing an easy ascent to the enemy who came up to the top with a furious charge, Mustafa being present throughout. The attack was checked at once by Count Hercole and his company, and so the Turks were driven back by our men who fought in the open, the parapet having been destroyed by the mine. On our side there fell Captain Meani, sergeant-major. Captain Celio, a grenadier, and Captain Erasmo da Fermo : Captain Soldetello, Antonio de Ascoli, Captain Gioan d'Istria, with many ensigns and officers were wounded, and about thirty soldiers killed. At the Arsenal, where they were repulsed, the enemy's loss was greater still, and ours less: five only were killed, of whom was Captain Giacomo da Fabria. The following night a slave came in who told us that two thousand six hundred 'I'urks were dead, two being men of rank. The assault lasted six hours, and the Right Reverend Bishop of Tjimisso, with the cross, stood there cheering our soldiers : and so he did in all the attacks, and if in any one this prelate was not present, the enemy were likely to prevail. He was a brother of the order of S. Dominic, a native of Famagosta. In these troubles he showed himself very /.ealous for the faith, going often to the walls and giving soup and (jther food to the soldiers, making these and the citizens with them often confess and coinmunicate, and inspired such hatred in the Turks that when they entered the city the Pasha caused him to be sought for diligently, with intent to torture him, but a little bef(n-e a nmsket ball had sent him to a better life. His name was Frate Seraffino Fortebrazza, of Milan. In this attack there were brave women who came with arms and stones and water to help the soldiers. The enemy seeing what great losses they had sustained in these two attacks changed their plans, and with increased fury began again to batter our defences and shelters on every side with their cannon. They worked away more actively than ever, con- structed seven more forts nearer the city, brought up the guns from the more distant forts, and mounted eighty others. Their fire was so brisk that on the day and night of July 8 five thousand shots were counted, doing such damage to our parapets that for all our toil we could scarcely repair them, because our labourers were now few in number, and worked under a hail of musket balls: the shelter behind the ravelin was broken up by shots and mines, so as to leave no platform, because we too were strengthening the parapets from withm, and encroaching on the platform, which we were obliged to lengthen with planks Captain Maggio constructed a mine under this ravelin, s(, that when we could hold it no longer, we might in abandoning it to the enemy inflict <.ii him some signal damage. ^ c. 154 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Third Assault. On July 9 they made the third assault on the ravelin, the great tower of S. Nappa, on that of the Antruzzi, on the curtain and great tower of the Arsenal. It lasted over six hours, but in four places the enemy was repulsed, though the ravelin was abandoned to the Turks with great loss on their side and ours. The defenders could not in that small space use their pikes to any purpose, and when they tried to retire, according to the order given by Signor Baglione, they fell into disorder, and retreated mixed up with the Turks. Our mine was fired, and we saw with horror the destruction of more than a thousand of the enemy, and more than a hundred of our own men. Captain Roberto Malvezzi of Bologna died on the spot. Captain Marchetto of Fermo was grievously wounded in the attack on the Arsenal, where Captain David Noce, the Quartermaster, died. This attack lasted five long hours, and the people of Famagosta with their women and children displayed everywhere great valour. The ravelin was so shattered by the explosion that no further effort was made to retake it, for there was nothing left as a shelter. The base of the left flank was intact, and here we dug another mine. Opposite the ravelin was the Limisso gate, a lower Avork, which was always kept open, for it had an iron portcullis, very heavy and studded with sharp points, closed by cutting a rope. It was intended to carry in the earth of the ravelin by this gate, and for four days the Turks did not approach it, afterwards they began to entrench them- selves anew on the higher ground commanding the front and flanks, and allowed no one to leave the gate, which they watched very carefully, because they were frequently attacked by our troops. Fourth Assault. So on July 14 they came to attack the gate, and after a charge at all the other batteries they marched up to plant their ensigns right in front of the gate. Signor Baglione and Signor Luigi, who had undertaken the defence of the gate, were present and cheered on the soldiers, who rushed forth and killed and put to flight the greater part of the enemy. They fired the mine on the flank, which slew four hundred Turks, but the carelessness of the men in charge allowed it to injure many of our own soldiers. Signor Baglione took one of the enemy's standards, wresting it from the hands of its bearer; thirteen other Turkish flags were captured. The next day they fired the mine under the curtain, but the result was of little use to them, and they waited to deliver a set attack, and went on widening and raising the traverses in the ditch, to secure themselves against attack. They had dug out all the earth near the counterscarp, and there they lodged in their tents, invisible to us. They brought up seven pieces of artillery on the wall of the counterscarp, so disposed that we could not see them, two on the ravelin of S. Nappa, one on the Antrucci, and two facing the battery of the curtain. They came with planks covered with raw hide to dig in the parapets, while we were not slow in hurling grenades among them, and in sallying now and then from the shelters to harass the diggers, but our losses were considerable. We restored the parapets with buffalo skins soaked in water, stuffed with wet rags and cotton and well bound up with cords. All the women of Famagosta, under the guidance of a monk, made up companies for each quarter of the city, for they dreaded the example given by those dogs of Turks in Nicosia. Every day they went to work at the post assigned to them, carrying stones, and water to quench the fires. For the Turks, who had failed to capture the gate, found a wholly new device. They collected a great quantity of wood called teglia which burns easily with CALEPIO. 155 a bad smell ; this they heaped up before the gate, lighted it, and so with faggots and pitched beams they worked up so fierce a fire that it was impossible to extinguish it, though the Christians kept throwing casks full of water from the high cavalier, which burst over the fire. Our men, by reason of the great heat and the stench, were forced to retire into the city. ITie Turks went down and dug fresh mines at the sides. We closed the gate which could no longer be kept open, and straightway to the surprise of all they re-made the platform of the ravelin and planted a gun over against the gate, which our men had entirely earthed up with stones, soil and other material. The position of the city was now desperate ; within the walls everything was lacking except hope, the valour of the commanders, the daring of the soldiers. The wine was ex- hausted, neither fresh nor salted meat nor cheese could be had, except at extravagant prices. The horses, asses, and cats were consumed. There was nothing to eat but bread and beans, nothing to drink but vinegar and water, and this too soon failed. The digging of three mines was heard below in the cavalier of the gate : everywhere the enemy was toiling with more activity than ever : in the ditch opposite the battery of the curtain they kept heaping up a mound of earth as high as the wall, and before long they reached the wall of the counterscarp : (opposite the great tower of the Arsenal they constructed a cavalier, all strengthened without with cables, as high as that of the city. Within the walls were left about five hundred Italian soldiers, sound, but worn wth long watches and the toil (jf fighting under the blazing sun : the most and best of the Grreeks were dead, and about July 20 the chief men of Famagosta resolved to write to Signer Bragadino, entreating him that now the fortress was reduced to such a pass, its defenders gone, its supplies spent, with no hope of assistance — since they had sacrificed their lives and goods in pursuit of their safety and their allegiance to the RepuV)lic — he would agree to terms of honourable surrender, with due regard to the honour of their wives, and the lives of their children, who would be left in the enemy's clutches : witness the signal lesson of Nicosia, and the help the government gave there. Bragadino answered with words of consolation and encouragement, promising that help would come: allaying, as far as he could, the general terror that prevailed, and sending a frigate to Candia to announce the straits they were in. The Turks had finished their mines, and fired them on July 29. In the meanwhile the defenders had been trying as usual to restore the parapets which the cannonade had shattered, and as there was no other material left the sacks were made of carisea under the super- intendence of the Captain of BafFo. The three mines of the cavalier did great damage, throwing down the greater portion of the work, and killing the Governor Rondachi della Stratia. The mine at the Arsenal shattered the rest of the great tower, killing nearly a whole company of our soldiers : only the bases of the two fianks remained whole. Fifth Assault. The enemy strove to take these two flanks, and to mount on the other batteries : the attack lasted from the twentieth hour until night, and very many Turks were killed. In this fight and others Signer Giacomo Strambali, a Cypriot noble, showed great valour, as well as Tutio Podochatoro, a Cypriot noble, who died bravely: his brother Alessandro, your brother Gioan Filippo Liisignano, and others of our nobles did their duty as knights, and with natural exasperation, for they had seen the slaughter at Nicosia. Your poor brother died eight days before the surrender of the city. May God give him Paradise. 20—2 156 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Sixth Assault. The next morning at dawn the city was attacked at all points. This assault lasted six hours, for the Turks fought Avith less spirit than usual. They kept giving us great trouble on the seafront with their galleys, moving out at every attack, and battering with their cannon every part of the city which they could reach. About three hundred Turks were killed, and about a hundred Christians killed and wounded. The city was reduced to great straits, only seven barrels of powder were left; so the chiefs resolved to surrender under honourable conditions. On the morning of August 1 the enemy fired two hundred cannon shots, damaging greatly the parapet of the Limisso gate : they came up to the place to reconnoitre, and a brisk skirmish followed. But when noon was passed a flag of truce was hoisted, and an envoy came from Mustafa Pasha, with whom it was agreed that the following morning two hostages should be given on either side while the agreement was under dis- cussion. By order of Signor Bragadino there went out as hostages on our side Count Hercule Martinengo, and Signor Matteo Colti, a citizen of Famagosta, and from the enemy's camp there came into the city the lieutenants of Mustafa and of the Agha of the Janissaries, who were met at the gate by Signor Baglione with two hundred musketeers, while our officers were met by the Turks vnth. a great array of cavalry and musketeers, accompanied by Mustafa's son in person, who welcomed them with great courtesy. Signor Baglione discussed the terms of capitulation with the Turkish hostages in the city. He asked for the lives of the defenders, their arms, their goods : five cannon, three of their finest horses, and a safe passage to Candia under an escort of galleys : that the townsfolk should stay in their houses and enjoy what was their own, living like Christians without any molestation therefor. The Turks accepted these conditions, to which Mustafa assented, and signed the truce. They forthwith sent gallej^s and sailing ships into the harbour, the soldiers began to embark, and when most of them were on board, the Christian chiefs and captains being anxious also to embark, on the morning of August 5 Signor Bragadino sent out Count Nestor Martinengo with a letter to Mustafa to say that the same evening he proposed to come out to see the Pasha, and to hand to him the keys of the city, leaving Signor Tiepolo in charge of the fortress. He begged that during his absence nothing should be done to annoy the citizens, for up to this time Turks and Christians had maintained with each other friendly and trustful intercourse, in all courtesy of deed and word, eating and drinking together. Mustafa replied to the letter by desiring the Count to tell Signor Bragadino to come when he pleased : that he would gladly see him and know him better, for he recognised the great courage shown by Bragadino, his fellow-officers and brave soldiers, whom, wherever he was, he should never fail to praise. On no account, let them be assured, would he suffer any annoyance to be inflicted on the citizens. Count Nestor returned and reported accordingly. In the evening Signor Bragadino, accompanied by Signor Baglione, S. Alvise Marti- nengo, S. G-ioan Antonio Querini, S. Andrea Bragadino, Cav. dell' Haste, Captain Carlo Ragonasco, Captain Francesco Stracco, Captain Hettor da Bressa, Captain Grierolamo di Sacile and other gentlemen, with fifty soldiers, went out : the officers wore their swords, the soldiers had muskets. So they went to Mustafa's tent, who at first received them courteously and made them sit down. They passed from one subject to another, then a complaint arose that during the truce Signor Bragadino had caused certain slaves to be put to death. There was not a word of truth in it, but Mustafa rising in anger would scarcely listen to what his visitors said, and ordered them to be bound. They were defenceless, for they were compelled to lay aside their arms before entering the tent, and thus bound were led one bj^ one into the CALEPIO. 157 open square before the tent, and cut to pieces in Mustafa's presence. Then twice and thrice he made Signor Bragadino, who showed no sign of fear, stretch out his neck as though he would strike ofF his head, but spared his Hfe and cut oif his ears and nose, and as he lay on the ground Mustafa reviled him, cursing our Lord and saying, " where now is thy Christ that He doth not help thee ? " The general made never an answer, but with lofty patience waited the end. Count Hercule Martinengo, one of the hostages, was also bound, but was hidden by one of Mustafa's eunuchs until his chief's fury was passed. He did not slay him, but doomed him, as long as his soul cleaved to his body, to continual death in life, making him his eunuch and slave, so that happy he had he died with the rest a martyr's death. There were three citizens in the tent, who were released, but the poor soldiers bound like so many lambs were hewn in pieces, with three hundred other Christians, who never dreamed of such gross perfidy, and impious savagery. The Christians who were already embarked were brutally robbed and thrown into chains. The second day after the murders, August 7, Mustafa first entered the city. He caused Signor Tiepolo, Captain of Baffo, who was left in Signor Bragadino's room, to be hanged by the neck, as well as the Commandant of the cavalry. On August 17, a day of evil memory, being a Friday and their holiday, Signor Bragadino was led, full of wounds, which had received no care, into the presence of Mustafa, on the batteries built against the city, and for all his weakness, was made to carry one basket full of earth up, and another down, on each redoubt, and forced to kiss the ground when he passed before Mustafa. Then he was led to the shore, set in a slung seat, with a crown at his feet, and hoisted on the yard of the galley of the Captain of Rhodes, hung " like a stork " in view of all the slaves and Christian soldiers in the port. Then this noble gentleman was led to the square, the drums beat, the trumpets sounded, and before a great crowd they stripped him, and made him sit amid every insult on the grating of the pillory. Then they stretched him on the ground and brutally flayed him alive. His saintly soul bore all with great firmness, patience and faith, never losing heart, but ever with the sternest constancy reproaching them for their broken faith : with never a sign of wavering he commended himself to his Saviour, and when their steel reached his navel he gave back to his Maker his truly happy and blessed spirit. His skin was taken and stuffed with straw, carried i-ound the city, and then hung on the yard of a galliot was paraded along the coast of Syria with great rejoicings. The body was quartered, and a part set on each battery. The skin, after its parade, was placed in a box together >vith the head of the brave Captain Hestor Baglione, and those of S. Luigi Martinengo, G. A. Bragadino and G. A. Querini, and all were carried to Constantinople and presented to the Gran Signor, who caused them to be put in his prison, and I who was a captive chained in that prison as spy of the Pope, my Hberation tried to steal that skin, but could not. From the account of this and other gentlemen named above the Turkish host encamped about Famagosta numbered two hundred thousand persons of every rank and condition, of whom eighty thousand were paid soldiers, besides the fourteen thousand janissaries taken from all the garrisons of Syria, Caramania, Anatolia and even from the Sublime Porte. The armed adventurers were sixty thousand, their vast numbers being due to the reports which Mustafa had spread through the Turkish territory that Famagosta was far richer than Nicosia and when people had seen and heard of the immense wealth of Nicosia, they came in such' crowds, especially as the passage across was so easy. On this second occasion this army surrounded Famagosta for seventy-five days, Hnng on it incessantly, and dischargnig 140 000 iron balls, which were seen and counted: others put the number at 170,000. I he chief personages in the host were, its General, the wretch Mustafa, the Pasha of Aleppo, the 158 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Pasha of Anatolia, Muzaifer, the new Pasha of Nicosia, the Pasha of Caramania, the Agha of the Janissaries, Janpalad Bey, the Sanjaq of Tripoli, the Beylerbey of Greece, the Pasha of Sivas and Marash, Ferca Framburaro, the Sanjaq of Antipo, Suleiman Bey, three Sanjaqs of Arabia, Mustafa Bey, General of the adventurers, the Fergat, Lord of Malatia, the Framburaro of Diverie, the Sanjaq of Arabia, and other lesser Sanjaqs, with a host of two hundred thousand men. Many say that when an account was taken eighty thousand Turks were left dead in Cyprus. They left the Framburaro of Rhodes as Governor of Famagosta, he was said to be a Spanish renegade. We heard that two thousand horses, poor beasts and out of condition were left in Cyprus, and twenty thousand soldiers, not only as a garrison, but as colonists, for the island was all but deserted. Christian Commanders who died in Famagosta. Marc' Antonio Bragadino, Captain of the City of Famagosta Tiepolo, Captain of the City of BafPo Gioan Antonio Querini, Paymaster of the army Gioan Andrea Bragadino, Commandant in Famagosta Signer Estor Baglione, Captain General of the whole army „ Aluigi Martinengo „ Frederico Baglione Governor Piacenza Cav. dell' Haste, Vice-Governor Captain David Noce, Quartermaster „ Mignano de Perosa, Sergeant-Major Count Sigismondo da Casoldo „ Francesco di Lobi, of Cremona Captain Francesco Troncavilla „ Anibal Adamo, of Fermo „ Scipione of Citta di Castello „ Carlo Ragonasco „ Francesco Stracco Governor Naldi Captain Roberto Malvezzi „ Cesare de Aversa „ Bernardino da Gubio „ Francesco Bugon, of Verona „ Giacomo da Fabiano „ Bastian del Sole, a Florentine „ Ettor da Bressa, who succeeded Captain Cesare d' Aversa „ Flaminio da Fiorenza, who succeeded Captain Bastian del Sole „ Erasmo da Fermo, who succeeded Captain de Cernole „ Barttolomeo delle Cernole „ Gioan Battista, of Rivarole J, Gioan Francesco, of Venice Names of the Captains enslaved. Count Hercule Martinengo, with Giulio Cesare, a Brescian soldier „ Nestor Martinengo, escaped CALEPIO. 159 Captain Marco Crivellatore „ Piero, Count of Mont' Alberto Signor Hercule Malatesta Captain Oratio da Veletri „ Aluigi Fezano „ Giovan de Istria Count Giacomo della Corbara Captain Soldatello, of Gubio „ Giovan, of Ascoli ^ „ Bastian, of Ascoli „ Salgano, of Citta di Castello „ Marquess, of Fernio „ Mario da Fabriano, who succeeded Captain Giacomo „ Matteo, of Capua „ Gioan Maria, of Verona „ Gioan Antonio, of Piasenza „ Carletto Naldo „ Lorenzo Fornaretti „ Bernardo da Bressa „ Bernardino Coco „ Hieronimo, commanding the Artillery „ Simone Bagnese, who succeeded Captain David Noce „ Tiberio Ceruto, who succeeded Count Sigismond ,, Gioseppe da Lanciano, who succeeded Captain Fr. Troncavilla „ Morgante, who succeeded Captain Annibale „ Ottavio da Hiiniiii, who succeeded Captain Fr. Bugon The Lieutenant who succeeded Captain Scipioii the Standardbearer, who succeeded Captain Rubert(j Captain J^rancesco, of Venice, who succeeded Captain Antonio „ Mancino Engineei*s. Giovanni Monnori, kiHod Cav. Maggio, enslaved The Greek Captains were twelve, not including the Captains of the Cernide, who virere six and more. Captains of tlie (irenadiers. The little Count of Tri\dso Celio, of Padova Gioan Battista, of Brescia Angelo, of Orvieto Gioan Maria, of Verona Ballidoro, of Brescia Turkish Captains in Faniagosta. Mustafa, General Pasha of Aleppo Pasha of Anatolia, killed 160 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. Muzaffer, Pasha of Nicosia Pasha of Caramania Agha of the Janissaries Janpulad Bey Sanjaq of Tripoh Beylerbey of Greece Pasha of Sivas and Marash Ferca Framburaro ^ Sanjaq of Antippo, killed Suleiman Bey, killed Three Sanjaqs of Arabia, killed Mustafa Bey, General of Adventurers, killed The Fergat, Lord of Malattia, killed The Framburaro of Diverie [Divrigi], killed and many other Turks of rank, Sanjaqs and others, whose names I omit for brevity's sake, and not to weary the reader with a list of mere infidels. From the capture of Famagosta right up to the harvest of the following year there fell a great dearth on the realm of Cyprus, and those very few poor gentlemen who remained in the island, having been ransomed together with citizens of Nicosia, struggled to make a living as muleteers and hawkers of wine, cloth and other little things, a very different life from their old one. The citizens of Famagosta remained for the present in their houses, but many were driven out by the Turks who came to lodge there, and then took possession. Mustafa returned to Constantinople with twenty-one galleys, but because he arrived just at the time of our famous naval victory the populace did not as usual go to meet him, or fire salutes, and there were very few who went to congratulate him, the reason being that in losing that naval battle all Constantinople had suffered severely : one had lost his son, others their fathers, brothers, or husbands, and all wreaked on him the blame of having stirred up the war. About this time an envoy arrived from Famagosta to confirm the treaty made by Mustafa with the citizens. They were allowed to live as Christians, provided only that there should be no one of the Latin Church. To these the Turk would grant neither church, house nor any privilege. The Latins in Famagosta were thus compelled to dissemble their faith and rites. The Greeks on their side hoped to keep all their Greek churches, but none was granted them except the Greek Cathedral, and when they offered handsome presents they got as well the little church of S. Simeon. There were granted to them besides the houses of which the Turks had not possessed themselves, and that if a Turk cared to sell a house the citizens of Famagosta should have the right of preemption, but if the Turks would not sell then each of them should keep what he held. The rest of the churches were used as stables, or for other unclean purposes, and S. Nicolo, the Cathedral Church of the Latins, was made a mosque by these miscreants. This was indeed a punishment and act of justice upon the Greeks of this kingdom, many of whom while they were under the rule of the Latin Christians abhorred the limpid water of the Holy Roman obedience, and despised the life-giving stream of its Head ; for as these Greeks preferred to be subjects to that gangrened limb, the Patriarch of Constantinople, because he and his fellow-patriarchs, especially the Patriarch of Jerusalem, when the poor Cypriot merchants and pilgrims went to their churches held aloof from them, considering them excommunicate, because in Cyprus they gave their allegiance to the Latins, and saying the same in even stronger terms to the Greek bishops of Cyprus, because they were elected by the Royal Latin Council, and confirmed by the Latin CALEPIO. 161 bishops —hence this ignorant people began to nourish a secret hatred against the Latins, as persons excommunicate and accursed. So our Lord God, yielding to their impious wishes, and to inHict upon them lasting pain and chastisement, removed nearly all the Latins from before their eyes, left them at liberty to subject themselves to the divided members of the Church, and made them tor all time the wretched slaves of the Turks. These (ireeks then, as soon as the Grand Turk had .seized the whole kingdom of Cyprus, ran straightway to that foul limb Mehmed Pasha, \^azir of the Turkish Empire, and begged him that the bishoprics of Cyprus might be filled up, as though this Mehmed were the Vicar of Christ, and for ecclesiastical confirmation or rather con.secration they applied to the Patriarch of Constantinople. At thi.s time there went a Syrian monk, a scion of those old heretics who were condennied in the early councils, and ofFered to Mehmed Pasha three thousand sequins, for which sum he obtained from the said Pasha the Archbishopric of Cyprus, and never con.sidering that the island had .still its illustrious Archbishop alive, was appointed and consecrated, and went to Cyprus with the Jani.ssaries assigned him by the Porte. As soon as he arrived he began to govern the few people left in the towns with strictness and tyranny, trying to recover not only tho.se three thou.sand sequins, but to get the double of what he had spent. For this cause and also because he was a barbarian, a stranger to the Cypriots, of another race and ignorant of the Greek language and letters, the people turned their attention to a certain Cypriot monk, who sought their suffrages, and sent him to Constantinople to Mehmed Pasha, that he might dismiss his former nominee and confirm the priest they now sent. He came to see me on his arrival at Constantinople, to ask my opinion and advice, for he was anxious not to throw away tlie large sum which it was usual to give as a pre.sent to the Pashas to secure his nomination to this see. What he sought chiefly to know was if the Christians, supposing they recovered Cyprus, would confirm him as Bishop, or despise him as the nominee of the Porte : also if they could injure him personally. 1 replied that he should let the matter stand awhile, and not seek a bishopric by these underhand means, for I knew that there was a nujnk in Constantinople, a Cypriot of g(Jod family named d'Acre, a friend of the Patriarch of ConstantinopU', and he too was eager to get this Archbishopric. The priest understood my meaning, and set off at once for Adrianople where the Court then was, taking with him a large sum in sequins which he had borrowed at interest, for the money he had brought from Cyprus was not enough, and with these he obtained the promise of Mehmed that he should have the Archbishopric. But the other monk d'Acre worked so upon the Patriarch that the priest was obliged to give way, and in lieu of the Archbishopric to be content with the Bishopric of Paffo. The Abbot of Cuzuventi in Cyprus happened to be in Constantinople just released from captivity ; he got the Bishopric of Liniisso, and the see of Famagosta was given to a Candiot monk, who was serving the church of 8. Simeon in that city. That was the new order taken for the creation of the Greek Church in Cyprus. But again this Pentecost, Catacusino, who watches the interest of the (irand Turk in the Mediterranean, and supplied twelve galleys for the service of that dog, forced the Patriarch to resign his office, and caused a creature of his own at once to be elected in his place. This he does often, every four years about, because he gains ten or twelve thousand sequins, the gift oF those who assume the Patriarchate. Look and wonder, my gentle readers, at the utter blindness of these poor (Jreeks in the administration of their spiritual affairs. In February of 1572, after the victory which so terrified the Turks, certain Turkish vessels went to Cyprus. The Turks of Famagosta, in terror lest these should be the pre- cursors of the Christian fleet, made terms with the Christians in Famagosta for their safety; c. 21 162 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. many of them put on the caps and clothes of Christians, many fled to the fortress of Nicosia, because Famagosta was in ruins, and they determined to surrender without a struggle. The Governor of the island and the Commandant of Famagosta sent three chawushes to the Grand Signor, to lay before him the peril and need of Cyprus. The panic spread through Constantinople, and it was said that in all Cyprus the garrison consisted of only two thousand soldiers and eight hundred horses, so that with all speed five hundred Janissaries were sent overland, and by sea five galleys and five liorseboats, to transport men and horses from Cilicia. A similar reinforcement was despatched to Rhodes, and orders for the Bey of Rhodes to return at once to that island, who left with four galleys. The Grand Signor feared greatly that he would lose both islands with their dependencies. May Christ our Lord make their ways dark and slippery, and the angel of the Lord pursuing them. There then Reverend Father, my kind reader, you have all that happened in the two cities of Nicosia and Famagosta, set down with all exactness and truth. May Christ our Lord hear it of His Grace to the profit of Christians, and to the praise of His Divine Majesty : and that right soon, so that we poor wretches may see with our own eyes our unhappy country restored to the Catholic and Orthodox Faith, under the true Chief Shepherd and His vicar upon earth. Let us pray then that His Divine Majesty may grant us this in His loving kindness and mercy, that we may be able to ascribe glory, laud and honour to God Almighty for ever and ever. Amen. The end. PORCACCHI. Tommaso Porcacchi was born at Castiglione, near Arezzo, removed to Venice in 1559, and, finding a home with the Counts of Savorgnano, died there in 1585. He was an extremely voluminous writer: a scholar, who provided the famous Gioliti press with editions of many classical Greek authors, and notes, corrections and illustrations for others: a poet, antiquarian, genealogist, geographer: and the editor of a collection of remarkable Sermons. But he is probably best known by his descriptions of the most famous islands of the world, which were collected, illustrated with maps, and published in 1576 by Girolamo Porro, a Paduan. Of this work, entitled L'Isole piu fmnose del viondo, four editions were issued in forty-iive years. Our translation is made from the second, printed at Venice, in quarto, 1590, pp. 144—153. Porcacchi tells us that his accounts were corrected by those given him orally by mariners and travellers, and they probably represent the best information available in his day. Description op the Island of Cyprus. Cyprus, an island in the Carphatian Sea, has on the north, at no great distance, the bay of Issus, called also gulf of Laiazzo : on the south the Egyptian Sea, on the west Rhodes, and on the east Syria. Its western coast is less than a hundred miles from Syria, a night's sail. The southern side is three hundred from Alexandria in Egypt, four days' sail : and the same or less from Rhodes. But the northern shore is sixty miles from Caramania. It lies just inside the fourth climatic zone, in the ninth parallel, like Candia. From old times down to the present day it has had various names ; it was called Cethin or Cethina from its first inhabitant of the same name. Then Cerastin or the horned, from the horned asp which CALEPIO. PORCACCHI. 163 was formerly found there in great numbers : or because to sailors who see it fi-om afar on the side of Fontana Amorosa its mountains seemed to have two horns. Then Aspellia, and Cripton, that is underground, because it is not visible to mariners until they come close under it, while other islands, on the contrary, are seen from afar. Next Collinia, from its hills, for its mountain.s, except Olympus, seem but hills, ^rosa, from its veins of copper: Amathusia (according to Strabo), from the city Amathus, where copper was extracted of the best qimlity and in the greatest abundance. Paphia, from the god Paphos, and the city called by his name. Salaminia, from the city which, in the days of the nine kings, surpassed all the rest. Cytherea, an epithet for the island as the home of Venus, rather than a name: Macaria, or the blessed, for its great fertility and many delights: and lastly Cyprus, either because this Greek word means Venus, who was there held in great veneration, or because Cyrus had restored the ancient city Aphrodisia, and would have it bear his name, or from the tree Cypress, which is found in this island only, and of which I shall say more hereafter. It is of oblong shape and has a circuit of five hundred and fifty miles, according to modern reckoning, although it is also confidently asserted that this should be six hundred and fifty. On the west it has three promontories or capes, C. 8an Pifani (I use the common name), anciently called Acamas, Trapano, Cilidonio or Punta Melonta, of old C. Zephyrion : these three look partly towards the Egyptian, partly towards the Pamphylian Sea. After Cilidonio on the south comes Drepauon, now C Bianco; then Phrouriuni, now C. delle (xatte : C. della (jrrotte, Masoto, Chiti, the point of Salines, C. Dades or Pyla, and Pedalion or C. della Grea. Note that from Cilidonio to C. delle (ratte the sea is that of Egypt, and thence to C. della Grea that of Palestine or Juda?a. Eastward the sea circles round from C. della Grea in the Syrian Sea to C. S. Andrea, or C. del Carpasso, opposite the gulf of Laiazzo. From C. S. Andrea on the north you come to the point called Aplirodisiou, or (after the \"illage) Acathu, then to tho.se of Ceraunia and Lapitho. C. Cornuicliiti is next, and then Alexau- dretta, formerly Calinusic. The bay between these two is called Pendaia; that between Alexandretta and San Pifani is Crusoco or Fontana Amorosa, and between Cormachiti and San Pifani comes the gulf of Settalia, anciently the Pamphylian Sea. This is the beginning of that gulf of Settalia which used to be so formidable to mariners; it stretches for three hundred miles till it joins the Sea of Rhodes. In ancient times it was exceedingly perilous, especially from the feast of the Nativity of our Lord until the Epiphany; but S. Helena, the mother of Constantine, came, as we shall see below, to Cyprus, and seeing the terror generally inspired by this gulf threw into it one of the blessed nails with which the Author of our Salvation was crucified, which she had brought from Jerusalem, and the frightful fury ceased. So that the gulf is no longer dreaded as before. The length of the island from east to west is two hundred and twenty miles — another writer aiids ten more — measuring from C. San Pifani straight across to C. S. Andrea, and its breadth, from C. della Gatta across the mountains to Cormachiti on the north, is sixty-six miles. The whole island is divided into eleven districts, thus arranged — On the west BafFo, anciently Paphos, Audimo, Limisso, Masoto, Saline and Mesarea : these look to the south, and lie along the coast, divided from the other districts by a long line of hills. The others look to the north; Crusoco, Pendaia, Cerines, Carpasso, formerly Carpasia. The last is the Viscontado, lying between those of Saline and Cerines. That of Cerines is itself divided by a chain of hills standing from a mile and a half to three miles from the northern sea: if the mountains in the other parts of the island had been similarly placed, the kingdom of Cyprus would perchance have had less need of the many works constructed for its defence, for this range begins at C. Cormachiti, and runs on in one unbroken line to C. S. Andrea; and the 21—2 164 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. little breadth of beach between the skirts of the hills and the sea gives to an invader no free access into the heart of the island. The other range of mountains crosses the middle of the island from the ancient city of Solia, eighteen miles from Cormachiti, to the mountain of the Cross which overlooks C. Mazoto, and follows the coast as far as Baffo, where it makes a bend and again follows the coast up to Solia. In the midst of these mountains is Olympus, of which the Greek name is Trohodos; it is very lofty, and full of trees of all kinds. Its circumference is fifty-four miles or eighteen leagues, and at every league there is a monastery of Grreek monks of S. Basil. In every one of these there are abundance of springs, and fruits of every description, so that the Cypriot nobles are wont to visit them in summer for recreation. Between these two ranges of mountains there is a plain seventy-eight miles long and thirty wide called Messaria, which stretches from C. della Grea to C. Cormachiti : it is fertile and produces much grain. In the middle of this is the royal city Nicosia, very pleasantly and beautifully situated. The island has no harbour but that of Famagosta, a city on the eastern shore of the plain, thirty-six miles from Nicosia, and thirty fi-om C. della Grea. In ancient times there were many, but they were neglected and blocked up by silt. However, nearly all round the coast there are landing places, and at Saline, Limisso, Baffo, Crusoco and Cerines are good roadsteads, where large vessels can anchor and lie; because on account of the winds and the aspect they prefer larger room in which to swing than they can find on the northern coast. It is said that the island was once the seat of nine kings, though some writers call them kinglets or great lords. It had many cities, of which four were built by Ptolemy Phila- delphus, and called Arsinoe, in honour of his sister. One of these is now the village Audimo, another Famagosta, the third the village Leuca, and the last Arzos. The city of old Paphos, built on the seashore looking south near C. Celidonio, was a royal residence, dedicated to the goddess Venus, with a lovely garden. Here the other goddesses, while Venus was away, caught Cupid (so the story runs), bound his eyes with a scarf, and set him on the top of a myrtle tree. Now the air is corrupted by exhalations from the marshes: such changes befall things, that the most charming spot in the island is now scarcely habitable ! New Paphos, built by Agapenor, the captain of the fleet of Agamemnon, king of Mycenae, was one of the nine royal capitals, and is even yet standing, and ranks as a city. Here men and women sacrificed naked to Venus, but at the prayer of S. Barnabas the Apostle, a native of Cyprus, the temple fell, and the scandal ceased. Two leagues from this was Cythera, where Venus was brought up, and whence, according to Hesiod, both the goddess and the island took their names. It is now a village called Conuclia, one of the first in the island, for its rich crops of cotton and sugar, and its abundant water. Here are many ancient tombs, like underground chambers, in which have been found many wonderful things, as also at Baffo, Salamina and elsewhere. Curias, another royal capital, was near the sea-coast where now stands Piscopia, one of the chief villages of the island. It has more than a thousand hearths, and is rich in running water, and gardens full of oranges, lemons and the like, which grow also at Baffo and Cythera. Curias, an ancient city, lay in the middle of C. delle Gatta, two leagues and a half from Piscopia : there is a lake to the north of it, full of salt water, with quantities of fish. C. delle Gatte is so named from the large number of cats, reared by the monks of S. Basil in the monastery of S. Nicolo or Acrotiri close by, to destroy the snakes which were very numerous. Large revenues were bequeathed to the convent for the tending of these cats. Amathus, an ancient city, one of the four dedicated to Venus, was rich in metals and mines. It lay on the seashore two leagues from new Limisso. It is now called old Limisso, and has a few Roman remains. A royal capital in the days of the nine kings, PORCACCHI. 165 it is now destroyed. With it vied in rank as a royal residence Chiteon, built before all the other cities of Cyprus by Cithin, grandson of Noah. This is situated on the southern coast: it had a fine harbour, now it is but a village, called Chiti. When in the possession of Hector Podocatharo, a Cypi-iot knight, who wrote a description of it, it was the most delightful spot in the island, with beautiful gardens full of rare fruits. Zeno, the founder of the Stoic Sect, was a native of Citium, with ApoUonius the physician and others. A league away on the seashore lies a lake about three leagues round, with springs of salt water. In the middle of June it begins to congeal under the sun's heat, ajid by mid-August it is entirely dried into salt, a source of immen.se profit. A mile furthei- on is the landing place of Salines, the resort of the larger merchant vessels. Salamis stood on the site known as old Famagosta ; it was called Constantia from King Costa, father of S. Catherine, and was the capital of one of the nine kingdojns. Built by Teucer, son of Telamon, it gave birth to King Kvagoras, mentioned by Plutarch, Nicocreon, captain of the fleet of Alexander the (ireat, and others. One may still see the remains of the fine aqueducts which brought water here from ('hiti, thirty miles away, and outside the town the foundations and ruins of the prison of S. Catherine. A church is shown dedicated to the Apostle S. Barnabas, and the place where he was martyred and buried in a well, together with the (xospel of S. Matthew, written by the Kvangeli.st's own hand, which was found there about the year 473. Other cities were Aphrodision, sacred to V^-nus: Cypria, the birth-place of S. Hilarion, and Ceraunia, now Cerines, built by (.'yrus when he sul)dued the m'ne kings. This town is on the north coast, with a strong fort built on a rock. It is the healthiest in the i.sland. Cyprus, which lies about latitude is struck directly by the sun, which beats fiercely on the soil and bakes it. Then the winds sweep over the heated earth, and they too get hot, so that their blasts merely augment the heat. It is necessary therefore carefully to protect one's chest, a thing difficult to do in such a furnace. At Cerines however the wind springs directly from the sea, and has no time to touch the burning soil, so that it does not add to the heat as in other pai'ts of the island. On the south too it is protected by the chain of mountains mentioned above, which are near enough to give the place shade, and excellent water. Lapethos, two leagues fnuu (Jerines, was also an ancient capital, its last king being I'isistratus, a companion of Alexander the (rreat. Now it is a \'illage of the same name, wonderfully fertile, and quite fatuous for its excellent lemons. They say that in the earliest ages (Jinaras, son of Agrippa, here first discovered the art, still practised, of making earthen vessels. Other capitals were Solia, anciently called Apamea, and Acamantis, iiear C. San Pifani, which the (ireeks call Accama. It is now a village named Crusocco, for there are traces of gold there, as well as chrysocolla or vitriol. Here is the Fontana Amorosa: the poets say that they who drank of it feci the stings of love, but they mention another which in its turn allays their smart, (iold is found also in the middle of the island near Nico.sia, on the site of the great city of 'I'amassus, now a village, Tamaglia. Nicosia was called by the ancients Letra, and then Leucoto. Under the nine kings it was the residence of one of them, but undi-r the ijusignans it became the capital, royal and archiepiscopal, of the whole island, and was glorified with palace.s, churches and grand buildings. It had a circuit of nine miles, but in l.')()7 the Signory of Venice, with a view of strengthening it, reduct-d this to three. It is supplied most healthfully and pleasantly with running water, and here the nobles of the island lived, who kept adorning it with ever new buildings, gardens and delights, 'i'welve miles south of Nicosia was Idalium, called by poets 16G EXCERPTA CYPRIA. the home of Venus. Tlie spot has no lack of spring water and gardens, but it is now a mere viHage, called Dali. There were other cities, and fine estates : they are mentioned in the chronicles which I have cited in their proper place. But when the Emperors of Constantinople sent Dukes to Cyprus they were reduced to fourteen, and again by the Lusignan kings to four, Nicosia, Baffo, Limisso and Famagosta. These remain cities, the rest are villages, of which there may be eight hundred and fifty. The latter were divided among the Court, the clergy and the nobles, who drew from them large revenues. The island is rich indeed in all the fruits of the earth, and its more useful products. Its -wines are very luscious and wholesome ; as they grow old they turn from black to white, they are fragi-ant and of pleasant taste. One finds wine of eighty years and more, and a vintage that had graced a grandee's table gets fresh honour as a medicine, for its health- giving and preservative virtues, which are those of a balsam. One needed to drink but a tiny measure in a large quantity of water. I do not mean that this wine only is rich and good, but all the wines of Cyprus may vie with those of any country, and they are appreciated accordingly in V enice and Rome, wherever indeed they reach. It produces the raisins called zabib, large, black and fine fruit, dried naturally by the sun, wheat and barley in abundance, and all kinds of vegetables. All ordinary fruits grow here, except cheri'ies, chestnuts and sorbs, but in their place are dates, bananas and citrons. Its gardens are adorned with oranges, lemons and citrons, of such quality as few other countries can surpass. Sugar was formerly one of its chief products, but the culture of the cane was abandoned for that of cotton, as being more profitable. And not to be tedious, I must assure the reader that Cyprus is a most productive island : over and above what is found in other countries it gives saffron, sesame, coriander, sumach, lentisc seed, and three sorts of honey, the white of the hives, black made from carobs, and treacle from sugar. Occasionally there is a slight fall of manna. It has all the common vegetables, and in addition cauliflowers and cabbages, the colocasia or Egyptian bean, which is excellent eating, and many others. In the village Calopsida grows the herb from which they make soap, and that with which they bleach camlet, for this and other cloths are made in great quantity. Cotton however is the real staple of the island. Then there is the fragrant powder which we call Cyprian; mixed with other drugs it gives a scent to the daintiest kinds of soap: also Ciprino or henna, olibanum, incense and storax. Minerals abound, veins of gold and copper, white and red marchasite, brass and iron ; but copper is the most common ; so we read in ancient writers of the furnaces in which it was smelted, in whose flames was found the creature called pyraustes or pyralis, which died when taken out of the fire. Emeralds, malachite, crystal, diamonds (not of the first water), coral, white and red, in the sea about Amathus, and other precious stones : rock alum, white and black, pitch, resin, sulphur, nitre, cochineal and amiantus. Of this last I have spoken in my work " on Funerals " ; it is beaten, soaked and manipulated until it produces threads like linen, and is spun into a cloth which is impervious to fire. Or rather it grows whiter and cleaner in fire, while water makes it hard like stone. Of this cloth the ancients made the bags in which they burned their dead, so as to preserve the ashes. Amiantus is found in a village of the same name. Of substances used in medicine are turpentine, colocynth, rhubarb, scammony, and many other useful herbs and rare simples. There are beasts and birds of all kinds : in most esteem are those found nowhere else, as certain little birds called vine-birds, which feed on grape and lentisc seed, and get very fat. They are caught in very great numbers, and, pickled in vinegar, are exported to grace the table of epicures. Everywhere they are welcomed and relished, but POIICACCHI. 167 'tis a cloying food, and mo too this long oniinicration of the riclies of the island cloys, and I will only shortly say that Cyprus certainly deserves to he i-anked with those lands that produce in most abundant measure all that is necessary for man's use. And if the inhabitants were more industrious, or less sluggards, especially in the way of increasing their water supply, their fields would be even more fertile still ; but so great is the profit which a very little labour wins for them from cotton and wool, that other produce is generally neglected. The island has no rivers, such streams as there sire are mere torrents. In a few places they have channels or chains of wells, or they dig pits and draw up the water by means of wheels. When there are heavy rains it seems that the hollows in the mountains get filled, where water is mostly stored. Hut rain is scarce in the island, and when it does not fall the springs in many parts are seen to diminish. Wonders of this kind are common, which the universal superstition of the islanders has exalted into miracles. At Morfu for example the tomb of S. Mamolo, called here Mama, exudes water, or liquid of some kind, a scjvereign remedy, so they say, for many illnesses, and for storms at sea. At Famagusta again, on the vigil of the feast kept in honour of S. Epii)lianius, Archbishop yi)i-us was left uninhabited for thirty-six years; no rain having fallen ^ 5fc o 3 Qj ple in his name. And they trusting their prince seized forthwith the greatest Pashas and the minions about hi.s throne, one of whom they massacj-ed in his jjresence, hacking him to pieces. Nor morning you can easily jjass the rest of the day without meat or drink, so remarkable is the strength and goodness of the wine. But taken in excess it Imrns you up at last. And coming down from the mountain we saw a very beautiful garden belonging to a (jreek Christian. A. wide stream passes through it bordered with palms, oranges, date- 174 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. palms, lemons and other excellent fruits. You see tliem on the trees, some ripe, some in flower, some approaching maturity, just as those of the kingdom of Naples. But the Cypriot oranges are twice the size of the Italian. We dined in this garden in Turkish fashion, and then went down to see the sugar canes, and the house where they are made into sugar. But I need not describe this, for everyone knows about it. Only this much, that the water which flows down from the garden turns the wheel which crushes the canes, and the liquid thus expressed is boiled to make sugar. From this spot we returned to the open country. It was very hot, and a great thirst oppressed us, so that our monk led us to the house of a Cypriot priest to drink water from his fountain. Seeing which the owner politely offered us wine, asking my guide if I was one of the Lutheran English lately arrived at the port. The monk told him that I was a Frenchman. Upon this the poor man embraced me for joy, saying in Italian much in praise of the French, and how since they had lost the kingdom of Cyprus, the Cypriots had never been well treated, and had lost their liberty. Then he took us round his garden and showed me two large stones, such as are set on the graves of notable persons. On one of them were written in French these words : Cy gist Jean Carcar, Chevalier, qui trespassa de ce siecle le quinziesme jour d'Octohre, Van de Jesus-Chrisf mille trois cens dix-lmict. Dieu aye mercy de I'ame d'iceluy. On this tombstone was neither effigy nor coat-of-arms, on the other stone was the effigy of a lady, and her arms, a cross patonce, with these words : Cy gist Dame Floride d'Anzerel jadis femme de Messire Jean de la Molee Chevalier qui trespassa le vingt et uniesme Janvier Van de Jesus-Christ 1301. Dieu enayt Vame. Amen. He told me that there were many others at Famagusta : and that even to-day the Cypriot Christians availed themselves of the privileges granted to them by the French, and that their last French king was of the house of Lusignan. At Limisso I was shown a coat- of-arms on the gable end of the old ruined castle, three lions with the arms of Jerusalem. Night approached, and I returned to the vessel to sup and to sleep, for there is no inn on shore. Sunday morning. May 14, I landed to hear the Holy Liturgy (which the Latins call the Mass) celebrated by a Greek priest, for there were no Latin priests. When this was over I met the Turks going to their mosque, which is twice the size of the Christian church, and built after the same fashion. But no Christian were so bold as to enter it, unless he would be burned, or made to deny Jesus Christ. We returned to the ship, and dinner was scarcely over when the Cadi and a great many Turks came to see our vessel, all handsomely dressed in stuffs of different hues, wearing turbans as white as snow. This whiteness is due to their being made of cotton cloth, which Turks use more than flax. Our Captain seeing them coming made all haste to prepare dinner and to spread carpets on the after-deck for them to sit on. The Turks as a rule never eat at high tables, but sit on the ground like tailors, resting their arms on their knees, and in this fashion eat like pigs. And although their law forbids them wine, yet they will drink to excess without scruple or shame. They dined well, and then walked all about the ship, and accepted some mirrors and other things from the sailors. As their boat left for the shore our Captain saluted them with three guns, and ordered the men to weigh anchor and steer for the Salines. We did not get off however until evening for we had still to take on board two oxen and certain barrels of wine. On Monday the wind turned against us so that we waited until two in the afternoon near Mount Olympus, where was anciently the temple of Venus Acraea, which women might not enter, nor even VILLAMONT. 175 see. 'Phis mo\intain is now called "Holy Cross," because S. Helena returning fi-om Jerusalem was compelled by the weather to land where a little stream runs from this mountain, now called the river of S. Helena, because she slept on its bank, having placed under her head the holy Cross of our Lord Jesus Christ, which she had brought from Jerusalem. But as she slept it befell that the Cross was miraculously withdrawn, and carried to the top of Mount Olympus. When she awoke, and saw herself defrauded of the much loved relic which she had sought out with so great pains, she was sorely grieved, and knew not whom to accuse of the theft. And those of her company, seeing her distress, began to search everywhere, and at last the Cross was found on the top of the mountain. Then the good S. Helena, knowing that (rod would be worshipped there, caused a church to be built there which exists to-day; and in it she left a piece of the said Cross, after which the mountain is named. Before the Turks took Cyprus there were monks there, (ireeks and Italians, l)ut now the church is abandoned. Sailing along we saw a wide and fair plain, on which is the town of Chity. They say that Lazarus, whom our Lord restored to life, was Bishop there. But here I find a great contradiction between the (ireeks and ourselves, for we hold it certain that Lazarus was Bishop f)f Marseille, and that he died there: while the (ireeks say that he was Bishop of Chity, and of all the territory of Saline. And when we were on shore they showed us a very ancient church, which they affirm to have been built by S. Lazarus, whose name it still bears. It is really built in the antique style, getting little light but such as enters at the open doors. On the right as you enter you see an ancient sepulchre: to reach it you pass a little opening and go down four steps, then you take a candle and approach the tomb, which is neatly made and ornamented with marble: in some parts it is two feet broad and three high. I was assured that it certainly is the tomb of S. Lazarus, and that the Kmperor Leo, surnamed the Philosopher, caused his body to be taken to Constantinople. Zonaras the historian in his third volume says as much. For my part I shall believe that there were two Lazaruses, one of whom may have been Bishop of Chity, and was buried in this church dedicated to him. But to say that this was he whom our Saviour reston-d to life is, to my thinking, a manifest error. F(jr with all respect to Zonaras and «)ther (ireeks, we have his body as well as that of the Magdalen, in our own France. After doubling the (Jape called also (Jhity we arrived about sunset at the port of Salines, fifty miles from Limassol, and after firing a salute of three guns our Captain sent a boat ashore with his clerk to advise the (jadi of our arrival. [The author iwplains hoir nrirs which met him at Larnaca of the fury of the plague at Tripoli, where 120 persons trere dying daily, made him change his vessel for one engaged to go directly to Jaffa, and continues — ] We landed and saw the church of S. Lazarus, and the fine salt-lake which yields abundance of salt in large and small blocks as white as alabaster. The plain around produces wheat aTid otlier grain plentifully ; it stretches nearly all along the seashore, and is wanting in nothing but wood, and even that is supplied by the adjacent hills. There are some villages, the chief of them liarnaca, where there is a fine church turned by the Turks into a mos(|ue. It was here that the Turkish force which conquered Cyprus first landed. Our Captain was buying salt at the lake to salt eighteen or twenty oxen and cows which he had bought to provisicm the ship, when two decent fellows, Cypnot Christians, who were arranging the sale, told us in good Italian of two strange things which had happened only six days ago at Famagusta, where the plague had long been raging, and its inhabitants and those of the country round were nearly all dead. One diiy about mid-day a Turk began 176 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. to cry aloud to the people to assemble in the public square to hear the good news he would tell them, how they might escape death. Those who had escaped the scourge ran as to a fire, and the Turk dancing and jumping about the square said, "Rejoice all of you and dance with me, for I announce that in half an hour I shall die on this spot, and immediately after my death the plague will cease." They wondered at his words, and waited to see the issue, but when the moment came for the Turk to visit the abode of Pluto his body fell stark on the square. Great was the alarm and wonder of all, which increased yet more when the plague ceased. The news was carried forthwith to the Pasha, who gave thanks to Mahomet and ordered that a grand tomb should be built for the dead man, around whose body was a great procession, the Pasha himself joining it with much devotion. The very next day another man inspired by the spirit of darkness did a diabolic and desperate deed. He took his stand in the middle of the square of Famagusta, stripped himself naked, and with a knife ripped open his belly before the people and dragging forth his bowels said, "I die for the love I bear to our great prophet Mahomet, to whom I now ofPer my bowels." With these words the poor wretch died. The Greek monk who had been my guide through the island, hearing that the plague had ceased at Famagusta, at once hired a donkey and without bidding us adieu started for his home. It were not worth my while to linger just now over an account of the manners of the Turks, their errors and superstitions, I will only touch on what I saw in Cyprus of the stupidity and coarseness of these barbarians. A certain herb grows in the island called Amphiam or Saffioii, which they prepare in various ways for eating, and say that when they have eaten of it they see in their dreams the most delightful gardens in the world, and a thousand like blundering impertinences hatched from their own brains. But these poor sots do not know that this herb has the power of making a man drunken, as though he had drunk wine. **************** The next day, Wednesday, May 17, we landed to hear Mass in the church of S. Lazarus, which two months since the Christians had bought from the Turks for the sum of three thousand aspres, about thirty-one gold crowns ; Mass is now said therein according to both the Greek and Latin rites. [T/ie author gives more details of the alarms and diffictdties which delay his departiore : then — ] To speak generally of the position, size and fertility of the kingdom of Cyprus — it is mountainous in parts, much longer than its breadth, from west to east 240 miles long and 80 miles broad, its circuit six hundred. Nearly in the middle is the city of Nicosia, its capital : not Famagusta, as some think, which is at one of the eastern points of the island. But on account of its fine harbour and incomparable fortress the Pasha generally lives at Famagusta for the safety of his person and his galleys. Ships bound for Tripoli would pass the city on the left hand : it lies close to the sea, and near it is the prison where S. Catherine was confined before she was beheaded by her father, as well as other ruins of the ancient city of Salamis, among which there exists still a church built on the spot where the Apostle Barnabas suffered martyrdom. We were infinitely sorry not to have the happiness of seeing it, when we were but nine leagues away. But it was not our will, but our ardent desire to see something of more importance that made us lose this opportunity, however on my return to Cyprus on my voyage to Damietta I had my wish gratified. The island is situated between the gulf of Satellia and the Caramanian Sea on the one hand, and Syria and Palestine on the VILLAMOXT. 177 other. It is distant from Venice about 2220 miles (1110 French leagues) : from Alexandria in Egypt 4^0 miles: from the port of Caramania called Alexandretta 80 miles: from Tripoly 90 : from Candia 400 : Antioch 140 : and Jaffa 250 — all from cape to cape, for the coasting journey would be much longer. Such is the position of this noble and fruitful island, which in fertility and beauty yields to no other in the world, and contains in itself everything which man need wish for. First it has its mines of gold which the Cypriots have not yet chosen to show to the Turks, no more than mines of other kinds, except sulphate of copper which is used in medicine ; next it abounds in very excellent wines, wheat, barley, cattle, salt, oil, sugar, cheese, flax, fine wool, great sheep whose tails weigh more than twenty-five pounds, capers, pomegranates, sweet and bitter oranges, palms, cucumbers, melons, and fruits of all kinds in great plenty : and particularly cotton, which was being sown during my \nsit to be gathered in the following September, 'i'he shrub is small, not more than three and a half feet in height, it bears little pods from which the cotton is extracted, while the seed is kept for the next year's sowing. But with the many V)lessings which (rod has scattered over the island there is also one drawback, for about the time that the corn is ripe for the sickle, the earth produces such a quantity of cavalettes or locusts that they obscure sometimes the splendour of the sun. Wherever these pa.ss they burn and spoil all. For this the Cypriots liave no remedy, since the more they destroy the more the earth produces next year, (iod however raised up a means for their destruction, which happened thus. In Persia, near the city of Cuerch, there is a fountain of water, which has a wonderful property of destroying these locusts, provided it be carried in a pitcher in the open air, without passing under roof or vault : and being set on a high and exposed place certain birds follow it, and Hy and cry after the men who carry it from the fountain. These birds are red and black, and Hy in flocks together, like starlings. The Turks and Per.sians call them Mahometans. These birds no .sooner came to Cyprus, but with their song and flight they destroyed the locusts which infested the island. But if the water be spilt or spoilt, these creatures disappear. Which accident fell f)ut when the Turks took Cyprus, for one of them going up iiit(j the steeple of the Cathedral Church at Famagusta, and finding there a pitcher of this water, he, fancjnng that it contained some precious thing, broke it, and spilt the water: since when the Cypriots have been always tormented by the locusts. Nor have they found anyone willing to journey to Persia to fetch some of this water, for he must needs traverse the Arabian deserts. The Greek monk of Famagusta told me, however, that a Turk had engaged to go thither for six hundred ducats. So it is that there is nothing in this world, however sweet and pleasant, but is attended by some trouble and bitterness! Cyprus was anciently governed by kings and tyrants down to the days of King Ptolemy, from whom it was taken by the Romans at the instance of Publius Clodius Bellus, for whom a large ransom was demanded by pirates who had captured him at sea. He sent to borrow the money from King I'tolemy, who was the friend and ally of the Roman Republic, but Ptolemy seeing tlie sum was a very large one sent but a part of it, which was refused by the pirates, though they released Publius Clodius on his word of honour. When Clodius was afterwards tribune of the people he caused Marcus Cato to be sent by the Senate to conquer the island of Cyprus, i'tolemy hearing this chose rather to kill himself than to fall alive into the hands of the Romans. The Kingdom then became a Province, governed by a Pnetor sent yearly from Rome. To speak now of the coins current in Cyprus. The gold sultan is worth about as much as the Venetian sequin, and is of nearly the same size. It passes for 120 aspres, the aspre being a little coin of pure silver less in size than half a denier. Eight aspres make a seya, 178 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. and fifteen seyas are worth a sequin. The crown, both of France and Spain, is worth twelve seyas, and the dollar (Spanish pieces-of-eight) ten. These are their only coins except certain maugouris made of copper, of which sixteen make an aspre. The aspre is worth about six French deniers obole, the seya four sols and four deniers. You must carry none of these small coins to Tripoly or Hierusalem, for they are not current there, and from month to month they rise or fall in value. [The vessel leaves Larnaca on the eventing of May 17, and coasts along in the direction of Limassol until a scirocco freshens so much that it anchors close to the shore. The author lands'\ to recover the appetite I had lost on board, and to enjoy the sight of a fine plain filled with caper-bushes, olives, carobs, and a strong-scented wood called in Greek Squina, from the seeds of which oil is made : but I marvelled especially to see the fields full of thyme, which our sailors cut for fuel, while in our country we keep it to adorn and embellish the borders and labyrinths of our gardens. Wonderful indeed is the excellence and fertility of the island, and still more wonderful to see it so thinly peopled, for one would scarcely find five or six poor houses in all this plain ! [The Seigneur de Villamont visited Jerusalem (where he was dubbed a Jcnight of the Holy Sepulchre) and Damascus, and on September 10 embarked at Tripoli for Damietta. Eight days later he reached Limassol, ill with fever, and remained in Cyprus until October 6, 1589, ivhen he sailed again for Damietta, pp. 553 — 5.1 THEVET. Andre Thevet, " Angoumoisin, Cosmographe du Roy," after publishing his Cosmographie de Levant, 4to, Lyon, 1556, Cosmographie Universelle, 2 vols, fol., Paris, 1575, and other works, left in MS. (Bibl. Nat. de Paris, nos. 15452 and 15453) his Grand Insulaire. From this work Mons. Ch. Schefer edited an account of Cyprus, part of which is here translated. It fills pp. 298 — 309 of Le Voyage de la Terre Sainte compose par Maitre Denis Possot, royal 8vo, Paris, 1890. (Pp. 304 — 309.) As to the things remarkable and rare to be found in the island, as well as the lords who have ruled over it, and lastly by what means the Turk has pounced on it, I have to my thinking, discoursed at such length in my Cosmography (Cosm. Universelle, Paris, 1575, vol. I. 104 — 204) that it would be only wasting paper in repeating myself, if I set myself to say all that should be said. I shall do better to warn you that Abraham Ortelius was ill informed where he speaks of what happened in this island in the year 1570, for he writes that the Turks made themselves masters of Famagosta, and slew all the Christians, Latin and (ireek, with the sword, so that old and young without exception felt the violence of these infidels. And still you see that the (xreeks and others live in entire libei-ty. You must consider too that in this island are found many kinds of fruits, as cherries, chestnuts, oranges, lemons, almonds and nuts. So too you have palm-trees, the tallest in the world, but they do not (as some fancy) bring their fruit to maturity, like those of upper Africa, Arabia Felix and Egypt. I never saw any, nor can they ripen there any more than in Crete, Rhodes or the Mediterranean islands generally. I say this, because I know that many persons have fallen into error, and have mistakenly written that these palm-trees produce very good fruit which we call dates. Among others a certain Cypriot who calls himself Frere Estienne de VILLAMONT. THEVET. 179 Lusigna'n, who amuses himself with telling us to our faces such a story, which is quite as fanciful as what he sets down later, that in this island are found emeralds and diamonds on a mountain near a Greek monastery called Agro. I see very well that this good monk is in error, and that instead of an emerald, diamond or ruby from China, Goa or Calicut, he gives us stones ready cut on the inaccessible heights of Canada, of which I have spoken elsewhere. I quite allow that in Cyprus are found good marble, jasper, chalcedony, and in some parts of the sea, coral. This island is likewise distinguished by .several fine monasteries, as Mancana, Andrio, Pepi, Sergio di Flatri, Cuzurenti, Anglistia, Morfu, Agrotiri and some others. Lastly it is commended to us for having produced a goodly band of fine and excellent men, such as were Triphylius, bishop of Nicosia, alive in A.U. 378, in the days of Constantine the Great, a very eloquent personage, who has written several good books. Titus, a deacon, native of Paphos, was the contemporary of another distinguished Candiot of the same name: hence several scholars have fallen into error in saying and insisting that the (.'andiot and the Cypriot were but one Titu.s, who was converted to the faith with S. Paul. Sergios Nicanor, one of the seven deacons and a disciple of S. Stephen. Kpiphanius, who, although the son of a Jewish father and heathen mother, was converted to the faith through the prayers and piety of the Greek monk Lucian after he had roamed for long years through the countries of Asia, Egj pt and Persia: later he was elected bishop of Salamina. His birthplace was the town of Marachassa. As he was the glory of the learned persons of this island 1 would not have him forgotten in my Watory of riluxtrioiis Mm {Les vrais poiirtraicts et vies des homines illustres, Paris, 1584, p. 22), where you will find his life and portrait just as I brought it from this very island. He it was who first of all condenuied the heresy of Origen and all his writings. Spiridion, another Cypriot, was bishop of Tremittus. This good father was pre.sent at the first council of Niciea, to which, before the bi.shops and prelates of the (xreek and Latin churches, he proposed several questions to confute the sect of the Arians. Sometime after his return he died in the island of Corfu, and was buried in a temple of (Jreek monks, where his sepulchre was shown to me. As to Theodore, a distinguished per.son, he was a native of Cj'prus, and when he had reached the age of a hundred he was electtnl bi.shop of the town of Pacerinesj now nuich ruined. This valiant champion of the Church of (Jod composed several beautiful books against the heresies of i)io.scorus and Kutyche.s, and others who were ill disposed to the church of God. The good bishop of Salamis, Hilary, was a bold champion of the Catholic Church. He composed three large volumes, two of which can be seen in the library of the Greeks at Mount Athos. He lived in the daj s of another great man, a bishop of Poitiers, also called Hilary; both these were the scourges of the Arian heretics. As to John the Almoner, patriarch of the church of Kgypt, who lived in the year ')()3, he was a Cypriot, born in the town of Amatus, which was also the birthplace of the good and leained bishop Stadion. His successor was Leoiiidas, who exchanged his see for that of Napoleos, to live in greater retirement. When I myself was visiting the i.sland of Cyprus there was shown me a corner of an old (Jreek monastery where this venerable father Leonidas was buried. In the same place the monks preserve as a great treasure certain manuscripts written in Greek on parchment, composed by him, which have not yet conu" to the knowledge of the Latins. He flourished in 014, in the days of Sj'rilos, bishop of the church of Bapho or Papho. I should be very sorry to have forgotten to recall to the reader the good (ielasius, the companion of Spiridion; both were present at the council of Constantinople. Thej' showed there the wisdom and the hearty zeal which they had for the Church of God in encounters with the Arian sect. As to Julius, bishop of Papho, Theoljrobrus, bishop of Tremitus, Tichon, bishop 23—2 180 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. of Tamassus, they were present at the council of Chalcedon. Eliodorus, bishop of Amatus, Echio, of Arsenoe, Epaphroditus, of Dacmassus, Didimus, of Lapithos, Evagrius, of Solis, Denys, deacon of Chitraea, and Sapithian, of Papho, whose tomb was several times shown me in a very deep grotto in the chapel called by the vulgar the seven sleepers. Of these seven sleepers the simple folk tell a thousand stories ; among others, they are so deluded that they believe that these seven sleepers are still alive; their priests have always kept them in this error. This chapel is between the town of Papho, now mostly ruined, and the tower near the sea, on the top of which can still be seen the arms of Savoy carved in white marble. I will not leave out Reginius, of Constantia, a personage greatly distinguished for his holy life and deep wisdom. For brevity's sake I cannot here undertake to recall to the reader other wise and holy men to whom this island has given birth, most of whom, each in his day, were pi-esent at the four first councils, and at several others held in Africa, Europe and Asia. There was no mention then of archbishops, only of bishops, and of certain patriarchs who lived in the famous old city of Nicossia, between whom and the cardinals of Rome there was no difference, except that they wore black hats while the cardinals wore red. Truly, in wi'iting the lives of the seven good fathers mentioned above, meseems I was entering a second terrestrial paradise and place of rest, so carried away was I by the content which filled my spirit. But contrariwise when I think of the folly and ignorance in which are now sunk the patriarchs, bishops and prelates of the Greek church I fancy I am entering a labyrinth of perpetual torment. To say the truth and in no wise to delude my reader, having lived in Greece and travelled hither and thither over the continent, the sea and the islands, conferring many times in many years with these Grascising Greeks, I have not found there or observed one man fit to carry the books of a Bessarion, an Argyropoulos, a Gaza, and others who were present at the council of Florence. These prelates have no care for anything but to take their pleasure, and drink like Greeks their good Candiot or Cypriot wine. As to their secular priests everyone knows that they are all married ; the monks and bishops are not. But the patriarch called Nestorius reformed them in such wise that they were compelled thenceforward to live as Greek monks do, and this marriage of bishops lasted 378 years. This is all I had to tell you of this island, called in Turkish Qibris Adasy. It was seized and overrun by the Turks, while its true masters and lords were the Signory of Venice, in 1571, not without great loss on the side of the infidels, who besieged the city of Famagosta : the defenders whereof, after receiving 168,000 cannon shots, surrendered to the mercy of the conqueror. THEVET. DANDINI. 181 DANDINI. Girolamo Dandini, S.J., Professor of Tl)cology at Perugia, was sent in 1596 by Pope Clement VIII. as nnncio to the Maronites of the Lebanon. He touclied at Limassol August 8, visited Larnaca and Nicosia, and left for Tripoli August 27. He returned to Larnaca March 19, 1597, and left for Venice April 12. His Misnione apontolica al paii iarca e Maioniti del monte Lihaiio was published in 4to at Cesena, in 1656, a Frencli translation by K. S. P. (Richard Simon) appeared in Paris, 8vo, 1675, and 16mo, 1685, and an English version in Pinkei-ton's collection, 4to, London, 1811, vol. x. I have used for the following extract a Paris copy of 1685, pp. 21—43. In 1901 there were 1130 Maronites, enumerated in 20 towns or villages of Cyprus. In 1891 their number was 1131. The villages named by Dandini are probably Metochi, Phlamoudi, Hagia Marina, Asomatos, Kampyli, Carpasi, Cormaciti, Tremidia, Casaphani, Vouna, Kepos, Yeri, Chrysida, Kephalobrysi, Kato Chrysida, H. Georgios tes Attalias, Clepini, Episcopi, Gastria. August 12 we arrived at Cyprus, and anchored towards eveiiing off Lemiso, where the inhabitants, and particularly the Turks, visited and explored our ship. We were there three days without going eud at the very least one hundred gold pieces on the journey. His passage to Cyprus will cost him six silver ducats, liis monthly l>oard ten ducats at the captain's table, six at the chief steward's. The hire of a ship from Cyprus to Jaffa costs thirty to forty gold sequins, to be divided among the passengers. There are sundry fees to be paid, for entrance into the church nine sequins, into the Holy Sepulchre itself two more, and so on. The traveller is further advised to take a mattress with a pillow and a pair of sheets, tlie whole enclosed in a box six feet by three, which will serve him for a bed: four or six shirts without collars, a w(K)llen sailor's cap. socks, handkerchiefs, towels and two pounds of soap, twenty pounds of the best biscuit, some good wine, cinnamon, ginger, nutmegs and cloves, with jjomegranates, oranges and lemons, also sugar and laxative medicine. His garments must be rough and cheap, the least ornament will excite the cupidity of the Syrians. \o arms naist be c-arried, and money must be carefully hidden. In Cyjjrus lie hud better arrange for his passage to Jaffa through a consul: he nuist choose a Syrian or .Moorish captain, tlu' (Ireeks are cheats, and hate the Latins. On Turkish soil he had Ixjtter call himself an Englishman, Frenchmau or Venetian, not a Spaniard or German. The journey from Jaffa to Jerusalem is j)erforiiieserve the animal well in that country. Here, however, 1 took it in my hands (it is a ipiiet pleasing beast) and saw that it was of the size of a racano, and very much the same shape, but uglier, with a misformed head and cloven feet, with two paws between which rises its leg: each paw has two fingers or claws, so close as to be hardly separated one from the other: its colour greyish, but unevenly marked and shaded. I was told it sometimes changed colour, not indeed as the vulgar say according to what you put near it, but as it may chance to be hot or cold, or walking and resting, and the like. I did not see it change, though J tried in several ways to make it do so. On the 8th the c(msul took me for a ride to another village about two leagues or six miles from Larnaca. It is still called Kiti or Citium, and was anciently a city and bishopric, now it is ruinous, consisting of a few huts only. We wished particularly to see a (ireek doctor, Sr. Aluise Cucci, who lived there in a garden of his own. He had considerable 27—2 212 EXCERPTA CYPRIA. reputation for learning, and spoke Italian well. We were to see his garden too, whicli though half destroyed, like everything else in the island since it fell into the hands of the Turks, is still one of the most beautiful places in the neighbourhood. Here died Cimon, that most valorous and virtuous Athenian general, son of the no less famous Miltiades. See ^milius Probus, in the life of Cimon, who says, " in oppido Citio est mortuus," after conquering the greatest part of Cyprus. We left on horseback about two or three in the afternoon, passing the Salines, not the houses only on the seashore of which I spoke, but the actual place where they make the salt. The Turks are too negligent to clean and clear it properly, and every day it gets smaller, and will eventually be filled up. Nevertheless when I was there it yielded a yearly revenue of about ten thousand piastres. Nearly every ship takes it for ballast ; Venetian vessels especially are bound to take at least one load each, but they often take more, for it is worth a good deal at Venice, and the trade in it is reserved to the Prince. We turned inland to a village called Bromolaxia, and at last reached Kiti, which stands almost on the seashore, the coast trending from the Salines towards the west. We called on Sr. Aluise Cucci, whom we found, in true philosopher fashion — for this is his line — living in a house which was once large and beautiful, but is now half a ruin. We saw the garden too, with its running water, fishponds and the like, all neglected and in disorder : nothing in short was left of its beauty but a great quantity of orange trees planted in regular rows, of one height, which formed a kind of shady grove really pleasant and pretty. I had a long talk with Sr. Aluise, who seemed an intelligent man, but he was either ill or convalescent, and so weak that he could hardly speak, and I could not learn so much from him as I had wished. I asked him about Cadmia and its different kinds, and about the other minerals, which, as you write to me, you wished to procure from Cyprus. I have entrusted your commission to several persons, and written also to Nicosia, the capital of the island and residence of the Pasha : also about Gralen's book. He said they existed still, but that it would be hard to find anyone who knew them well, and could find them : the people were all very stupid ; the Christians had long ago given up working the mines, so as not to tempt the Turks to covet the island, and the Turks had let them alone on account of their ignorance. After talk on these and like matters we took our leave of Sr. Aluise and returned in the evening to Larnaca by another road which took us when about half-way home through another village called Menego. All these villages which were of old fully peopled are now very small, the houses few and ruinous, and the inhabitants very few in number. September 9. I returned to the ship to see something of my people, and on the 10th wdth my astrolabe I took in the harbour the sun's altitude : I found its declination fi*om the zenith at midday to be 29° 50'... The 13th I landed again: after breakfast the consul ivished me to go to see a place noted for its sacred character and natural beauty ; the Greeks called it Agia Nappa (S. Nappa). It lies about eight leagues distant from Larnaca, almost on the sea, on the east coast near Cape della Grreca. Here is a church built in a grotto, where was found a wonder-working image of the Virgin. At three, or a little before, we mounted. The consul was too unwell to come, but we had Sr. G. F. Parente and two other Venetians, Messer Bernardino Drogogna, and Messer Giacinto Greco, a clerk on the Cacciadiavoli," a vessel belonging to a Venetian noble of the family of Viario, then in harbour, a Greek called Manoli, my servant Michel, and a consular janissary as escort. We rode all the afternoon along the shore, reaching the village of Ormidia at dark, and there we rested most of the night. We rose the next morning more than an hour before the dawn, passed Xilofago, then Cape S. Giorgio, and a stream which runs into the sea west of the cape, where many vessels, especially pirates, touch to get water, and the day was still young when DELLA VALLE. 213 we got to the village called, like the church, Agia Nappa. This, like all which I have seen in Cyprus, was almost destroyed, partly by the usual tyranny of the Turks, partly through the great pestilence which had wasted the island a few years before, killing most of its inhabitants. The church itself, built, perhaps out of respect to the pirates, somewhat like a square castle, is still standing. There is a large quadrangle with rooms round it, the church being on the left as you enter, reached by many steps, as well as the underground chapel which is formed out of the very grotto in which the sacred image was found. A Papas or Greek priest takes care of the church, and officiates in it, and there are certain Calogrie or nuns, who have abandoned the world and devoted themselves to the service of (Jod : they are decently clad in black, but are not cloistered. In the middle of the courtyard is a fountain of spring-water, built up as we might build one, and not badly, of marble. Over this at no great height they have placed a dome on four pillars, with raised seats or platforms of Eastern fashion right round it, a c