m ' 'JJ0KZ ■*g*# M* TiiS± 2fe &&£■ iW &^W^ 15TU1 of '/ ///Mi '^wo i mm WAlexander F.SA.frc. ■ i PuM.lxn'.i&n h .1 llunw) I PICTURESQUE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE CHINESE. ILLUSTRATHD IN FIFTY COLOURED ENGRAVINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS. BY WILLIAM ALEXANDER. LONDON: PRINTED FOR JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET, BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND-ROW. 1814. LIST OF THE PLATES Plete 1 The Title. A Stand of Arms, 2 Kien Lung, the Emperor. 3 Fishermen. 4 Man Servant. 5 Mandarin in his Court Dress. 6 Young Bonze sacrificing. 7 Juggler. 8 Children collecting Manure. 9 Watchman. 10 Lady and her Son. 1 L Bonze. 12 Lantern Seller. 13 Soldier with his Matchlock. 1 4 Porter carrying Goods. 15 Mandarin in his Common Dress. 16 Boat Girl. 17 A common Sedan, or Chair. 18 Mandarin's Servant on Horse- back. • 19 An itinerant Musician. 20 Ensign of the Bowmen. 21 Mendicant. 22 Barbers champooing, &c. 23 Bookseller. 24 Soldier of Infantry. 25 A Raree Show. Plate 26 Mandarin's Page. 27 A travelling Smith. 28 Mourners at a Tomb. 29 Vender of Rice. 30 Female Comedian. 31 Sedan Bearer. 32 A man selling Betel, &c. 33 A Horse and Cart with the Driver. 34 Seller of Pipes, 35 Waterman. 36 Tradesman reckoning on his Swan pan. 37 Women winding Cotton. 38 Soldier of the Cavalry mounted. 39 Punishment of the Cangue. 40 Groupe of Children. 41 Chairman with a Sedan. 42 Vessels near a Town. 43 A Lady of Rank. 4 4 Nursery Maid and Children. 45 Stage Player. 46 Trackers regaling. 47 Mandarin's Officer. 48 Punishment of the Arrow. 49 Woman selling Chow-chow. 50 Groupe of Soldiers. PLATE I. FRONTISPIECE, Exhibiting the various kinds of weapons,, offensive and defensive, in use among the Chinese infantry, cavalry, artillery, and bowmen, arranged on a stand or frame of wood. One or more of these frames are commonly to be met with at the military posts and at the depots of arms and guard-houses, close to the gates of their walled cities. I ' 1 1 1M- PJLATJE 2. /iuA Jan JJU-f. bu ./ Unmnt. . Hh.ynarif S/rtYt . PLATE II. KIEN LUNG. Kien Lung was the fourth Emperor of the Tartar dynasty, which nowpossesses the throne of China, When the annexed Sketch was taken he was eighty-three years of age, but had all the appearance of a hale, vigorous man of sixty. Indeed his whole life had been spent in the active discharge of public business, and in the violent exercise of hunting and shooting in the wild regions of Tartary, which he continued with unabated zeal almost to the period of life above men- tioned. He always commenced public business at two or three in the morning, and gave audience to foreign ambassa- dors at that early hour, whether in winter or summer, and he generally retired to rest at sunset ; and to this invariable habit of rising and retiring at an early hour, he attributed much of his healthy and vigorous constitution. e<3 ~ PLATE Iff. THE FISHING CORMORANTS. The Leu-tze, or fishing cormorant of China, is the pelica- nus sinensis, and resembles very much the common cor- morant of England, which, we are told by naturalists, was once trained up to catch fish, pretty much in the same manner as those of China are. They are exceedingly expert in taking fish, and pursue them under water with great eagerness. They are taken out, on the rivers and lakes, in boats or bamboo rafts ; and though sent on the chace after long fasting, they are so well trained that they rarely swallow any of the fish they take until they are per- mitted to do so by their masters. Many thousand families in China earn their subsistence by means of these birds. : \FE4. hihhfhej J,m' iln bu JMurrwi.jHWtniiHc J'tnrr PLATE IV. A MAN SERVANT. We have little to observe on this figure. His dress is pretty nearly that of the class of people to which he belongs. The Chinese are excellent domestic servants, and when honest, which is a quality not common among them, they are invaluable. They are rather slow, and do not like to be put out of their way, but they do their work well and neatly. Every European resident at Canton and Macao has Chinese servants, which on the whole, are pre- ferable to any other race of Orientals. Thev are sometimes brought over to England, but are seldom happy till they get back to their own country, which has the same kind of charm to them as the vallies of Switzerland had to the natives of that once happy country. C HUK'A-'iPJLATi h,H -Ijii 1A4 I;, JJfarnw .1!):-m..rle Strrrt . PLATE V. A MANDARIN IN HIS COURT DRESS. All officers of state., whether civil or military., from the highest to the lowest, have been named by the early Por- tuguese writers mandarins, from a word in their own language, mandar, to command ; and this name., improper as it is, has preserved its ground ever since. The figure of a bird on the embroidered breast-plate of the annexed figure points him out as a civilian. A military officer wears the figure of an animal resembling the tiger. The degree of rank, whether civil or military, is marked by a small globe on the top of the cap, opake red coral distinguish- ing the highest, and brass the lowest rank : the interme- diate colours are transparent red, opake and transparent blue, opake and transparent white. As a mark of imperial favour, one, two, or three feathers from the tail of the peacock are appended to the back part of the bonnet. All officers, whether civil or military, invariably wear thick-quilted boots, and, when in their court-dresses, embroidered petti- coats. Most of them wear chains of coral, or agate, or coloured glass round the neck, as in the annexed figure. < PLATE VI. AN OFFERING IN THE TEMPLE. The figure kneeling before the deities mounted on pedes- tals is a priest of the sect of Fo. He is burning incense, or rather paper that is covered over with some liquid that re- sembles gold. Sometimes, in lieu of this, tin foil is burnt before the altars of China, and this is the principal use to which the large quantities of tin sent from this country is applied. On the four-legged stool is the pot containing the sticks of fate, and other paraphernalia belonging to the temple, and behind it is the tripod in which incense is sometimes burned. These superstitious rites are performed several times by the priests every day, but there is no kind of congregational worship in China. The people pay the priests for taking care of their present and future fate. ■A— PI-ATE 7. hifr d J,m* 1.1.114. bv J, Murr.w. Mhrtiuirlt Strtri PLATE VII. A JUGGLER, PERFORMING TRICKS WITH JARS. This engraving exhibits a posture-master balancing two large China vases, and throwing himself into most ex- traordinary attitudes ; he exhibited a variety of curious postures before the Ambassador, at his lodgings opposite to Canton, and played with the large jars precisely in the same manner as the Indian jugglers, in Pall-mall_, toss about the large round stone of twelve or fourteen pounds weight ; but those who have seen both are inclined to giye the palm to the Chinese. s i PLATE VIII. CHILDREN COLLECTING MANURE. The collecting and preparing of manure of various de- scriptions, and making it up into cakes for sale, occupy a very considerable population of the 1 owest class of society, and for the most part is the employm ent of the aged and children. No agriculturists, perhaps, understand the value of manure better than the Chinese, and certainly none are so well skilled in the economical distribution of it. It is quite ridiculous to see the avidity with which young chil- dren follow a traveller on horseback for the chance of catching what the animal may emit, which is immediately caught up, and thrown into the basket; and if the traveller himself should contribute his portion, it is con- sidered as more valuable than that from the animal. CMIKA — JPJLATF. ©. fnh'.l.,,,:, ttij.h, .! \lurr,ii u .11hrm.irie Strert PLATE IX. A WATCHMAN. The police is so well regulated in all the large cities of China, that disturbances rarely, if ever, happen during the night. The watch is set at nine, and continues till five in the morning. A gate is placed at each end of the cross streets, which are all streight, and at right angles with the main streets ; from each gate a watchman proceeds till he meets his brother watchman about the middle ; at every half hour he beats the hollow bamboo tube, in his left hand, with the mallet in the right, striking the same number of blows as there may be half hours elapsed from nine o'clock : the blow gives a dead, dull sound, suffici- ently audible, and to a stranger sufficiently disagreeable. Each watchman is also furnished with a paper lantern. At the great gates of cities, and at certain distances in the main streets are guard-houses, at which a party of soldiers are stationed to aid the police, if necessary ; but this is rarely the case, as, in addition to the common watch, every tenth housekeeper in every street is made re- sponsible for the orderly good conduct of his nine neigh- bours. In the day time there is plenty of noise, and quarelling and scuffling among the lower orders of the Chinese. s PLATE X. A LADY, AND HER SON. The annexed print is the representation of a Chinese Lady, and her Son, of a certain rank in life, from which no high ideas will probably be entertained of the taste in dress either of one or the other. Our modern notions of a head-dress, however, approximate those of the Chinese ; though it is to be hoped that our ladies will never be brought to imitate the small and mutilated feet of the Chinese women, which disqualify them from the free use of their limbs. Ceo rsw— pjlat /'./rrrt PLATE XXII. CHINESE BARBERS CHAMPOOING, $• PLATE XXIII. A BOOKSELLER. In so arbitrary a government as that of China, it would scarcely be supposed that the press should be free ; that is to say, that every one who chooses it may follow the pro- fession of a printer or a bookseller without any previous licence, or without submitting the works he may print or expose for sale to any censor appointed by government; but then he must take his chance to suffer in his person all the consequences that may result from the impression that may be made on the minds of the civil officers as to the tendency of the work. A libel against the government, an immoral or indecent book, would subject both printer and publisher to certain punishment both in his person and purse. The Chinese have not made any great progress in literature, and still less in the sciences : they most excel in the history of their own country, in morality, and in practical jurispru- dence. Their dramatic works are constructed on the same model as those of the Greeks, to which it is hardly neces- sary to add they are infinitely inferior. Their novels and moral tales are better ; but the works in most esteem are the four classical books supposed to be written or compiled by Confucius. Their printing is not performed by move- able types, like ours, but by wooden blocks the size of the page ; and this mode appears to have been in use long before the Christian aera. '^^ CMEKA — TBJLATM 24, Ivblf/hrJ Ju*rtl4.iy riftiiy liltrnmiin .'tn-rt PLATE XXIV. A SOLDIER OF INFANTRY. The annexed figure, either from the striped dress, or the furious looking head painted on the shield, has been called a tiger of war ; but he is not so fierce as he appears to be, or as the name would imply ; indeed the Chinese admit that the monstrous face, on the basket-work shield, is intended to frighten the enemy, and make him run away ; like another Gorgon's head to petrify those who look upon it. This corps of infantry, in its exercise, assumes all kinds of whimsical attitudes, jumping about and tumbling over each other, like so many mountebanks. Indeed the whole of the Chinese military tactics are as absurd as they are ridiculous. When an army is drawn out, it must re- present the heavens, or the earth, or the moon, or the five planets, or the five-clawed dragon, or mystical tortoise, Pere Amiot, a French missionary, has been at the trouble of collecting or composing the military tactics of China, which fill a large quarto volume. fJHIIirA— PJLAXE 26. h.i. u/ f!,:i iftnfrtf fly Jlfiumjt iflimw ft .V7/n* - PLATE XXV. A RAREE SHOW. There is every reason to believe,, that Punch and his wife were originally natives of China ; and that all our puppet- shows were brought from that country. The little theatre., above the head of a man concealed behind a curtain, is precisely Chinese. Les ombres Chinoises still bear the name of their inventors ; but the annexed representation of a puppet-showman is somewhat different from both, and is the simple origin of the Fantoccini, which consists in giving motion to the puppets, by means of springs attached to particular parts of the figures. These little dancing puppets are not merely exhibited for the amusement of children ; they furnish entertainment for the Emperor and his court, and more especially for the ladies who, from their recluse mode of life, are easily diverted with any kind of amusement, however childish. We find from Mr. Barrow, that a puppet-show was one species of entertain- ment given to Lord Macartney and his suite at the Em- peror's palace of Gehol in Tartary. CHIIIYA — iPJLATE 26. ftihltfhd .hnuitj At' X Miami/, .tlbem.iri' Street PLATE XXVI. A MANDARIN'S PAGE. We have not much to observe with respect to the annexed figure. He is the page or body servant of a mandarin, to carry his papers, his writing apparatus, the cushion on which he sits, or lays his head ; he takes care of his areca-box and his tobacco pipe, attends him on all occa- sions, fans him while asleep ; and, if report speaks truth, serves him for other unworthy purposes. Every mandarin has one or more of these kind of boys whom, even in public, they treat with a familiarity which is not quite decorous. The upper vest, worn by the person in the annexed figure, is of fur, which in all the northern pro- vinces is found to be absolutely necessary in the severe cold of the winter months. PLATE XXVII. A TRAVELLING SMITH. It is a peculiar feature in all the Oriental nations, that the most beautiful specimens of workmanship in the various arts are made with the most simple and at the same time most clumsey tools. The artificers moreover are rarely fixed, or settled in a workshop convenient for their pur- poses, but generally travel about the country carrying their shop and apparatus with them. The annexed figure represents an itinerant smith, who has more tools than almost any other artificer of China, and yet performs his work the worst. Their cast iron is light and good, but their manufactures of wrought iron are very indifferent : they can neither make a hinge, nor a lock, nor even a nail that can be called good. The bellows of the smith is a box with a valvular piston, which, when not in use, serves as a seat, and also to contain his tool?. The barber also makes a seat of his basket ; the joiner uses his rule as a walking-stick, and the same chest that holds his tools serves him as a bench to work upon : such are the ex- pedients which thousands resort to, both in India and China. ■CHINA — FJLATE 28 fttb*.i.;<> PLATE XXVIII. VISIT TO THE GRAVE OF A RELATION. Filial piety in China extends beyond the grave. Every year at certain periods dutiful children assemble at the tomb of their parents or ancestors., to make oblations of flowers., or fruit, or pieces of gilt paper, or whatever else they consider as likely to be acceptable to the manes of the departed. Their mourning dress consists of a garment of Nanquin cotton, or canvas, of the coarsest kind. Some of the monuments erected over the dead are by no means inelegant; like their bridges and triumphal arches., they are very much varied, and made apparently without any fixed design or proportion. The semicircular or the horse- shoe form, like that in the print before which the mourner is kneeling, appeared to be the most common. €MirfA — Pilate 2©„ Fuji ! Jv&.ISH bu J llurr.m .ilhrm.u-ir ,1'mt PLATE XXIX. A SELLER OF RICE. Almost every necessary of life, and many articles that are not of that description, are carried about the streets for sale, and the invariable mode of bearing burthens of this kind is in baskets or boxes suspended from the two ex- tremities of a bamboo lath, swung across the back part of the shoulder. If a Chinese should only have one basket to carry, he is sure to get a log of wood, or a large stone to counterpoise it at the opposite end, thus preferring to carry a double weight rather than place it on the head, or the shoulder, or across the arm. The Chinese are in appear- ance far from exhibiting any signs of great muscular powers, but in lifting, or carrying a load, they are pro- bably not excelled by the porters even of Ireland. .ATJE 3©. ISUItfhrd Jtrtiti+hr JMumv. Jlbmuuir Sum PLATE XXX. A FEMALE COMEDIAN. It is, perhaps, more proper to call the annexed figure, the representation of a person in the character of a female comedian, than " a female comedian/' as women have been prohibited from appearing publicly on the stage since the late Emperor, Kien Lung, took an actress for one of his inferior wives. Female characters are now there- fore performed either by boys or eunuchs. The whole dress is supposed to be that of the ancient Chinese, and indeed is not very different from that of the present day. The young ladies of China display considerable taste and fancy in their head-dresses which are much decorated with feathers, flowers, and beads as well as metallic ornaments in great variety of form. Their outer garments are richly embroidered, and are generally the work of their own hands, a great part of their time being employed in this way. If it was not a rigid custom of the country, to con- fine to their apartments the better class of females, the unnatural cramping of their feet, while infants, is quite sufficient to prevent them from stirring much abroad, as it is with some difficulty they are able to hobble along ; yet such is the force of fashion, that a lady with her feet of the natural size would be despised, and at once classed among the vulgar. A — PJLA'! . ' Idi-r.iu. . tn- /"«/■•' fw*tfrf kiBfiw //' m./t ' jro' PLATE XLIII. A CHINESE LADY OF RANK. If we except the unnatural custom of maiming 1 the feet, which swells and distorts the ankles, and wrapping the latter up in bandages, the dress of Chinese ladies in the upper ranks of life is by no means unbecoming. In the head dress, in particular, they sometimes exhibit great taste, and great variety ; and the materials of which their garments are made, and especially those parts of them which consist of their own embroidering, are exceedingly beautiful. Confined by education in their mental acquire- ments, a great part of their time is employed in works of this kind, in looking after and cultivating plants growing in pots which decorate their apartments and inner court- yards, and in attending to birds, which are either kept for singing, or some particular beauty of form or plumage. The buildings in the back ground form part of a view of Pekin, near one of the western gates. ' hib* J.ttr'i-'i.) .hv J Afumm, .1lhrot.tr/,- .iftrr/ . PLATE XLIV. A NURSERY MAID AND TWO CHILDREN. The annexed are portraits of a female servant, and of a male and female child, which will give a tolerably correct idea of the dresses worn by them respectively. That of the maid servant differs in noth'ng from her mistress, but in the materials ; the latter generally wearing silk, and the one in question cotton. A Chinese woman of the meanest condition would feel herself degraded if not allowed to mutilate her feet. '"E 46. • hhlvhr.l '../r - m,j h, J i/tarmt^Mbanarle Stmt PLATE XLV. A STAGE PLAYER. By the military emblem on the breast-plate, the annexed figure of a stage player must be intended to represent a great general or some military hero famous in the annals of China. Noisy music and extravagant gestures are the characteristic features of the Chinese stage, of which it would lead us into too long a detail to convey any intelli- gible account ; and we prefer, therefore, to refer to the curious and interesting descriptions which have been fur- nished on this subject by Lord Macartney, Sir George Staunton and Mr. Barrow. We have only to add, that the figure was sketched from the life. ^ tj PLATE XLVI. TRACKERS REGALING. There is little to observe on the annexed engraving. It represents a groupe of the common peasantry of the country eating their rice. The particular employment of these, here designated., is that of tracking barges on the canals ; the pieces of wood lying by them being those which they place across the chest to drag forward the vessels. It will be seen from the other prints, that the common mode of carrying burthens is that of swinging baskets from the two extremities of a bamboo, which is laid by the middle across the shoulders. aML*^ I W A- PLATE 47. "*** '-*•■■ < ■> r Mh ny Bt—x i ti .f/;»,v PLATE XLVII. A MANDARIN'S OFFICER. This gentleman is a sort of appendage to a man in power. Some half-dozen of them generally precede a mandarin of rank when he goes in procession, but more especially when he attends a tribunal of justice. Their peculiar province seems to be that of keeping off the crowd. The feathers they wear in their tall conical hats are from three to six feet in length, and are apparently the tail feathers of a peculiar species of pheasant, which is represented as very scarce. Some of them wear the tail feathers of th^ argus pheasant. I i PLATE XLV1II. PUNISHMENT FOR INSOLENCE TO A SUPERIOR. Piercing the ear with various sharp instruments is among the punishments of the Chinese. A man who had been insolent to one of the suite of Lord Macartney's embassy, was sentenced to receive fifty strokes from the pant- zee or bamboo, in addition to having his hand pinned to his ear by an iron wire, which was said to have been inflicted immediately after the bastinade. The middle figure is an inferior officer of the police, who holds a painted board on which the crime is exhibited to spectators ; the other personage is a mandarin reproving the culprit. PLATE XLTX. WOMAN SELLING CHOW-CHOW. There is little more to be observed of the present engrav- ing than this : that whatever wares,, goods, or merchandize are exposed to sale in the open air, which in the open plains, as well in the broad streets of cities, is very much the case, the vender and the articles themselves are, during the summer months, protected from the rajs of the sun by a large umbrella, which is generally square, like that in the print. Some hundreds of similar stands and umbrellas were displayed on a plain near the spot where the embassy disembarked, within the mouth of the Pei-ho ; the little booths, if they may be so termed, being generally well stored with sweet-meats and sliced water-melons laid upon ice. The poorest peasant in China carries an umbrella, either to defend him against the rays of the sun, or heavy rains. PLATE L. A MILITARY POST. At certain distances, more or less remote according to the nature of the country, along the roads, and the banks of the interior navigations, are placed small parties of soldiers from five or six to a dozen., and sometimes more. They are employed in conveying the public dispatches, and in assisting the magistrates to quell disturbances. The immense army of China is for the most part parcelled out in this way. Near each of these posts is a tall wooden building from whence they can see and communicate by signals with the next stations. The men till the ground, and perform other kinds of labour ; but are always expected to turn out in their holiday dress when an embassador or any of their tazin or great men happen to pass the station, on which occasion they generally fire three little petards stuck into the ground with the muzzle upwards as a salute. London : Printed by W. Bulmcr and Co- Cleveland-row, St. James's. s $**£0* I <#£?■ S*v Swf ;*'«»,. S% yb&i I