Sjnr’.i': - «;•, '•:•;• RESEARCH LIBRARY THE GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE JOHN MOORE ANDREAS COLOR CHEMISTRY LIBRARY FOUNDATION © Raymond Pettibon Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/dyersinstructorc00smit_0 % TIIE DYER’S INSTRUCTOR; ART OF DYEING SILK, COTTON, WOOL, AND WORSTED AND WOOLLEN GOODS, SINGLE AND TWO-COLORED DAMASKS, MOREENS, CAMLETS, EASTINGS, SHOT COBOURGS, SILK STRIPED ORLEANS, PLAIN ORLEANS EROM WHITE AND COLORED WARPS, MERINOS, WOOLLENS, YARNS, ETC. CONTAINING NEARLY 800 RECEIPTS; A TREATISE ON THE ART OF PADDING; AND THE PRINTING OF SILK WARPS, SKEINS, AND HANDKERCHIEFS, AND THK VARIOUS MORDANTS AND COLORS FOR THE DIFFERENT STYLES OF SUCH WORK. BY DAYID SMITH, PATTERN DYER. COMPRISING PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS IN THE AS TO WHICH IS ADDED FOURTH EDITION. PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIR^ INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 406 Walnut Street. 1871. the uETTY research INSTITUTE LIBRARY INTRODUCTION. In presenting to the Public my second work on Dyeing, I have endeavored to give concise and clear directions for Dyeing Wool in its raw state, Cotton in the Hank and Warp, and Silk in the Skein, in all the various colors; and also for dyeing the dif- ferent fabrics of Piece Goods, as Damasks, single and two colors, Moreens, Camlets, Tastings, Shot Co- bourgs, Silk Striped Orleans, Plain Orleans from White and Colored Warps, Merinos, Woollens, Yarns, &c. Also, I have appended a concise Treatise on the art of Padding; and directions for the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such Work. In this department I have been aided by one of the most practical men in the Silk Printing business. Since the publication of the 11 Practical Dyer’s Guide,” I have received numerous applications for Receipts, for Dyeing Silk, Cotton and Wool. As the “ Dyer’s Guide” is particularly applicable to Stuff, iii IV INTRODUCTION. Yarn, and Woollen Cloth Dyers, I have collected the Receipts on Cotton, Silk, and Wool Dyeing, from my own resources (not from obsolete Books on Dyeing), and from practical men in the trade, who have been prompt to aid me in this attempt to impart practical and scientific knowledge to my brethren in the trade. The following work principally comprises Receipts for Dyeing a given quantity of goods, as Wool, Cotton and Silk, together with other miscel- laneous important information. To communicate instruction by clear and concise Receipts, must be regarded as best calculated to qualify a person for successful operations in practical dyeing ; it will save much time, and also expense ; and, for a learner, must be far superior to reading and studying the complicated and circuitous methods, as detailed in some Treatises on the Art of Dyeing, which demands the greatest simplicity in its expla- nations and directions, so that a person from reading them may not be bewildered as in a labyrinth of complexity, but proceed at once to dye. I have en- deavored to avoid such a method of instruction, and I presume that the following Receipts will meet the wishes of those who are seeking after such knowl- edge. Having myself had much experience in dye- ing nearly all sorts of Goods, I have given every class of colors and the different shades of the same color, in as great a variety as I could find calculated to be useful. INTRODUCTION. Y As some parties wished to purchase the “ Dyer’s Guide,” without the Patterns , it is necessary to say that only a limited number was published, and the Edition is fast running out, and that the few copies remaining must be sold with Patterns. But I have endeavored to meet their wishes by the publication of the following W ork, and, as the price is so low, considering the important information given, it is presumed that it will be serviceable to the trade, not excepting those who have purchased the “Guide,” on account of those Receipts which refer to Silk, Cotton, and Wool Dyeing. D. S. WOOL DYEING. 1 Fancy Bloom 2 Drab 3 Heavy Drab 4 Slate Color 5 Light Green 6 Darker Shade of Green 7 Light Blue 8 Logwood Blue 9 Sage Drab 10 Black 11 Fast Blue Black 12 California Color 13 Darker Shade of California Color 14 Fawn Drab 15 Dark Fawn Drab 16 Madder Drab 17 Fuller Shade of Madder Drab 18 Dark Shade of Madder Drab 19 Blue Slate Color 20 Crane Blue 21 Fancy Bloom 22 Silver Drab 23 Redder Shade of Silver Drab 24 Very Light Shade of Drab 25 Light Drab, Yellower Shade than No. 24 26 Vicuna Drab 27 Redder Shade of Vicuna 28 Fine Red Lavender 29 Light Olive 30 Greener Olive Redder Shade of Olive Dark Olive Darker Green Olive Dark Green Olive, Chromed True Olive Vant Color, near Canary Color Light Brown Middle Brown Darker Brown True Brown Light Green Moss Green Good Bottle Green, Chromed Invisible Green, Chromed Bottle Green, True Color Violet or Mulberry Fine Claret Darker Claret Russian Brown Dark Brown A. Lac Scarlet B. Full Pink Wine Color Royal Blue Grain Crimson Grain Scarlet Full Yellow Orange Canary Color Sky Blue Saxon Blue vii 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Vlll CONTENTS, COTTON 1 Buff 2 Butf 3 Buff, or Nankin 4 Straw Color 5 Flesh Color 6 Safflower Pink 7 Light Pink 8 Scarlet 9 Light Cinnamon Brown 10 Darker Shade of Light Brown 11 Dark Shades of Brown 12 Chrome Yellow 13 Darker Shade of Chromed Yel- low 14 Full Chrome Orange 15 Fast Drab 16 Fast Blue 17 Lavender 18 Lilac 19 Silver Drab 20 Good Light Drab 21- Fuller Shade of No. 20 22 Light Olive 23 Darker Olive 24 Dark Olive 25 Full Yellow Drab 26 Light Buff 27 Light Blue 28 Light Extract Green 29 Middle Shade of Green 30 Dark Shade of Green 31 Chromed and Fast Greens 32 Light Catechu Brown 33 Darker Catechu 34 Dark Catechu Brown 35 Full Dark Catechu Brown DYEING. 36 Full Yellow Scarlet 37 Barwood Bed 38 Imitation of Turkey Red 39 Various Shades of Silver Drab 40 Various Shades of Fawn Drab 41 Good Black 42 Good Black, to Stand Milling and Scouring 43 Fast Black 44 Fast Purple 45 Fast Lavender 46 Sky Blue 47 Bark Yellow 48 Other Yellows 49 Peachwood Red 50 Crimsons and Pinks 51 Clarets 52 Ruby 53 Plum Color 54 Maroon 55 Blue Purple 56 Full Purple 57 Saxon Blue 58 Flat Royal Blue 59 Bright Royal Blue 60 Victoria Blue 61 Napoleon Blue 62 On Bleaching Cotton 63 How to spend Catechu 64 How to make the Spirits for Cotton Dyeing purposes 65 On Steeping 66 How to Spend Annotta 67 How to spend Turmeric for Cotton Dyeing 68 How to spend Safflower 1 Lavender 2 Lavender, No. 2 3 Lavender, No. 3 4 Spirit Yellow 5 Weld Yellow 6 Bark Yellow 7 Turmeric Yellow 8 Orange Color SILK DYEING. 9 Grain Crimson 10 Grain Scarlet 11 Sky Blues from Extract 12 Sky Blues from Prussiate 13 A. Mazarine Blue 13 B. French Blue 14 Royal Blue 15 Blue Black CONTENTS, IX 16 Common Full Flack 17 Browns of different Shades 18 Dark Browns of different Shades 19 California Browns and Olive 20 B,ed Browns, or Claret Browns 21 Another mode of Dyeing Red Browns 22 Acid Brown 23 Light Claret Brown 24 Dark Claret Brown 25 Clarets and Chocolates 26 Another mode of Dyeing Clarets and Chocolates 27 Mock Crimsons, dyed different ways 28 Olive 29 Purples 30 Maroons 31 Maroons, another way 32 Ruby 33 Daunce Black 34 Violet 35 Light Green 36 Middle Green 37 Dark Green 38 Bottle Green 39 Other Greens of different Shades 40 Fast Green with a Blue bottom 41 Light Olives, of different Shades 42 Flesh Color, or Buff 43 Salmon 44 Gold Color 45 Yellow Fawn Drab 46 Fawn Drab 47 Flat Drab 48 Heavy Drabs 49 Slate Drab 50 Bronze Drab 51 Another mode of Dyeing Drabs 52 Sour Browns 53 French White 54 Pinks from Safflower 55 Pinks from Peachwood 56 Grain Pinks 57 Mock Scarlet 58 Real Paris Blacks 59 Napoleon Blue, and how to make the Spirits for the same 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. Pea Green, very fine Shade Silver Drab California Color Bright Vicuna Light Fiery Brown Middle Olive Red Lavender Red Drab Ruby Wine Color Fine Claret Yellow Brown Middle Green Good Brown Dark Purple Sea Green Dark Brown Dark Drab Maroon Scarlet Cinnamon Brown Grain Crimson 23 Full Pink 24 Salmon Color 25 Full Grain Rose 26 Light Buff 27 Light Yellow 28 Orange 29 Bottle Green 30 Invisible Green 31 Dark Blue 32 Blue Black 33 Full Black 34 Royal Blue 35 Apple Green 36 Light Olive 37 Dark Olive 38 Brown Olive 39 Fawn Drab 40 Dove Color 41 Blue Lavender 42 Sky Blue 43 Saxon Blue 44 Sage Drab CONTENTS. 45 Chromed Green 46 Dark Chromed Green 47 Light and Dark Claret 48 Mock Crimson 49 Grain Maroon 50 Dark Chocolate 51 Heavy Brown 52 Dark Claret Brown 53 Darker Claret Brown 54 Full Red Brown 55 Full Yellow Brown 56 Darker Yellow Brown 57 Dark Olive 58 Darker Shade of Olive 59 Very Dark Claret WORSTED YARN DYEING. 1 Slate Purple 27 Full Yellow 2 Red Purple 28 Orange 3 Full Red Purple 29 Grain Crimson 4 Royal Blue 30 Rose 5 Grain Maroon 31 Pink 6 Mock Crimson 32 Imitation of Indigo Blue 7 Claret 33 Light Brown 8 Light Vicuna 34 Claret Brown 9 Dark Vicuna 35 Snuff Color 10 Oak Drab 36 Full Black 11 Bottle Green 37 Blue Black 12 Apple Green 38 Fawn Drab 13 Knot Green 39 Lilac 14 Sea Green 40 Lavender 15 Dark Sea Green 41 Light Puce 16 Mock Maroon 42 Slate Drab 17 Green Olive 43 Sage Drab 18 Dark Drab 44 Red Cinnamon Brown 19 Dahlia 45 Dark Brown 20 Ruby 46 Dark Red Brown 21 Apple Green 47 Grain Scarlet 22 Invisible Green 48 Salmon 23 Bottle Green 49 Sky Blue 24 Brown Olive 50 Saxon Blue 25 Green Olive 51 Dove Color 26 Canary Color WOOLLEN DYEING. 1 Grain Scarlet 8 Orange 2 Scarlet 9 Salmon 3 Scarlet 10 Salmon 4 Scarlet 11 Grain Rose 5 Lac Scarlet 12 Gold Color 6 Scarlet 13 Grain Rose 7 Scarlet 14 Full Red Crimson CONTENTS, XI 15 Light Rose 35 Green 16 Rose Color 36 Chestnut Brown 17 Yellow 37 Dark Green 18 Full Yellow, or 38 Claret Brown 19 Sky Blue 39 Chromed Green 20 Dove Color 40 Claret 21 Crimson 41 Brown Olive 22 Green 42 Mule Drab 23 Royal Blue 43 Stone Drab 24 Dark Royal Blue 44 Fawn Drab 25 Royal Blue 45 Nut Brown 26 Royal Blue 46 Good Light Claret 27 Royal Blue 47 Good Crimson .28 Royal Blue, Gold Lists 48 Good Logwood Blue 29 Green 49 Logwood Blue 30 Purple 50 Yarn and Woollen Piece Dyeing 31 Dark Brown 51 New Mode of Dyeing Logwood 32 Dark Claret Brown Blues 33 Black 52 Maroon 34 Peachwood Red DAMASK 1 Pink and White 2 Pink 3 Salmon and White 4 Salmon 5 Rose Color 6 Rose Color 7 White and Ponque Color 8 Ponque 9 Grain Crimson 10 Grain Crimson 11 Buff and White 12 Buff 13 Straw Color and White 14 Straw Color 15 Yellow and White 16 Yellow 17 Lac Scarlet and White 18 Lac Scarlet 19 Grain Scarlet and White 20 Grain Scarlet MOREEN 1 Light Sky Blue 2 Dark Sky Blue 3 Full Orange DYEING. 21 Light Orange and White 22 Orange 23 Sky Blue and White 24 Sky Blue 25 Saxon Blue and White 26 Saxon Blue 27 Light Green and White 28 Light Green 29 Middle Green and White 30 Middle Green 31 Cinnamon Brown and White 32 Cinnamon Brown 33 Light Fawn 34 Darker Fawn 35 Light Silver Drab 36 Darker Silver Drab 37 Mock Crimson 38 Sea Green 39 Coffee Brown 40 Black DYEING. 4 Light Orange 5 Full Grain Scarlet 6 Grain Scarlet Xll CONTENTS, 7 Light Lac Scarlet 8 Full Lac Scarlet 9 Light Yellow 10 Full Yellow 11 Straw Color 12 Buff 13 Light Grain Crimson 14 Bark Grain Crimson 15 Coffee Brown 16 Sea Green 17 Mock Crimson 18 Black 19 Light Silver Brab 20 Full Silver Brab 21 Light Fawn 22 Barker Fawn 23 Cinnamon Brown 24 Barker Cinnamon Brown 25 Middle Green 26 Bark Green 27 Light Green 28 Barker Green 29 Light Saxon Blue 30 Bark Saxon Blue 31 Light Red Crimson 32 Full Red Crimson 33 Light Rose Color 34 Full Rose Color 35 Light Salmon 36 Full Salmon 37 Light Pink 38 Full Pink TWO-COLOREB BAMASK BYEING. 1 Scarlet and Pink 2 Scarlet and Yellow 3 Scarlet and Flesh Color 4 Scarlet and Salmon 5 Scarlet and Rose Color 6 Light Green and Pink 7 Middle Green and Pink 8 Green and Yellow 9 Green and Salmon 10 Saxon Blue and Rose Color 1 1 Sky Blue and Pink 12 Sky Blue and Pink, another way 13 Blues and Crimsons of different sorts 14 Green and Crimson 15 Bark Blue and Orange 16 Bark Blue and Light Orange 17 Ruby and Blue 1 8 Yellow and Blue 19 Orange and Blue 20 Scarlet and common Blue 21 Coffee and Royal Blue CAMLET 1 Scarlet 2 Light Orange 3 Full Orange 4 Light Yellow 5 Full Yellow 6 Grain Crimson 7 Ash Brab 8 Silver Brab 9 Fawn Brab 1 0 Saxon Blue 11 Maroon 12 Light Brown BYEING. 13 Bark Brown 14 Claret Brown 15 Light Purple 16 Middle Purple 17 Bark Purple 18 Another Mode of dyeing Pur- ples 19 Blue Black 20 Full Black 21 Royal Blue 22 Green 23 Bottle Green CONTENTS. Xlll LASTING 1 Light Yellow 2 Full Yellow 3 Silver Drab 4 Ash Drab 5 Fawn Drab 6 Saxon Blue 7 Grain Crimson 8 Scarlet 9 Light Orange 10 Full Orange 11 Maroon 12 Light Brown DYEING. 13 Green 14 Bottle Green 15 Blue Black 16 Full Black 17 Claret Brown 18 Dark Brown 19 Light Purple 20 Middle Purple 21 Dark Purple 22 Royal Blue 23 Another Mode of Dyeing Pur- ples SHOT COBOURG DYEING. 1 Blue and Pink 2 Yellow and Blue 3 Orange and Blue 4 Crimson and Blue 6 Ruby and Blue 6 Lavender and Pink 7 Green and Pink 8 Lavender and Crimson 9 Dark Sky and Crimson 10 Light Green and Salmon 11 Green and Pink 12 Green and Claret 13 Green and Purple 14 Black and Crimson 15 Light Olive and Crimson 16 Orange and Purple 17 Royal Blue and 18 Green and Orange Full Pink SILK STRIPED ORLEANS FROM BLACK, WHITE, AND COLORED WARPS. 1 Light Olive from Black Warp 2 Dark Olive from Black Warp 3 Brown Olive from Black Warp 4 Red Brown From Purple Warp 5 Dark Claret from Black Warp 6 Chromed Brown from Purple Warp 7 Claret Brown from Claret Warp 8 Dark Claret Brown from Claret Warp 9 Chromed Claret from Purple Warp 10 Dark Claret from Purple Warp 11 Ruby from Violet Warp 2 12 Light Claret from Purple Warp 13 Darker Claret from Claret Warp 14 Adelaide from Black Warp 15 Dark Mulberry from Black Warp 16 Adelaide from Black Warp 17 Violet from Violet Warp 18 Royal Blue from White Warp 19 Lavender from White Warp 20 Red Brown from Purple Warp 21 Green from White Warp 22 Solid Grain Pink from White Warp XIV CONTENTS. COLORED ORLEANS FROM BLACK WARPS. 1 Light Brown 2 Chromed Brown 3 Claret 4 Dark Claret 5 Blue Claret 6 Violet 7 Adelaide 8 Dark Claret Brown 9 Dark Brown Olive 10 Green Olive 11 Darker Green Olive 12 Chromed Green 13 Invisible Green 14 Blue Black 15 Full Black COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 1 Cinnamon Brown 15 Invisible Green 2 Red Brown 16 Red Claret 3 Coffee Brown 17 Red Brown 4 Light Claret 18 Dark Brown 5 Middle Claret 19 Silver Drab 6 Dark Claret 20 Dark Silver Drab 7 Chromed Claret 21 Stone Drab 8 Adelaide 22 Madder Drab 9 Mulberry 23 Lavender Drab 10 Apple Green 24 Pink 11 Light Olive 25 Sea Green 12 Dark Green Olive 26 Sky Blue 13 Brown Olive 27 Full Black 14 Dark Green COLORED MERINOS. 1 Royal Blue 2 Dark Royal Blue 3 Grain Maroon 4 Full Grain Crimson 5 Pink 6 Salmon 7 Grain Rose 8 Light Orange 9 Yellow 10 Grain Scarlet 11 Lac Searlet 12 Light Pea Green 13 Sea Green 14 Apple Green 15 Bottle Green 16 Invisible Green 17 Chromed Green 18 Chromed Invisible Green 19 Purple 20 Light Chromed Purple 21 Violet 22 Ruby 23 Maroon 24 Light Claret 25 Middle Claret 26 Full Claret 27 Dark Green Olive 28 Brown Olive 29 Full Red Brown 30 Dark Coffee Brown 31 Adelaide 32 Mulberry 33 Light Sky Blue 34 Dark Sky Blue 35 Lavender 36 Red Lavender 37 Madder Drab 38 Full Drab 39 Silver Drab 40 Blue Black 41 Full Black CONTENTS. XV WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. 1 Royal Blue 2 Bloomy Royal Blue 3 Light Rose 4 Full Rose 5 Light Salmon 6 Full Salmon 7 Melon 8 Yellow 9 Orange 10 Yellow Buff 11 Light Buff 12 Full Buff 13 Scarlet 14 Lavender 15 Sky Blue PADDING. 1 Estariazer Standard 2 Red Brown Standard 3 Dark Purple Standard 4 Drab Standard 5 Drab Standard 6 Gray, or Quaker Drab Standard 7 Slate Standard 8 Dove Standard, old way 9 Dark Dove Standard, new way 10 Light Dove Standard 11 Fawn Drab Standard 12 Lavender Standard 13 Sulphate of Indigo 14 Blue Standard 15 Bloom Pink Standard 16 Royal Blue Standard 17 Prussiate of Tin 1 8 Claret Standard 19 To Pad Claret 20 To Pad Black 21 To make Acetate of Copper 22 Stone Drab Standard 23 Orange Standard 24 Light Olive Standard 25 To Pad Dark Shades of Olive 26 Lilac 27 Slate Standard 28 First Shade, Yellow Stone Drab 29 Second Shade, Stone Drab 30 Third Shade 31 Cinnamon Standard 32 To Pad Cinnamon 33 To Pad Estariazer Color 34 To Pad Slate Colors 35 Dark Green Standard 36 Pale Green 37 Sky Blue Standard 38 Lavender Standard 39 Drab Preparation, or another Mode of Padding Drab 40 To Pad different Shades of Drab 41 Sky Blue 42 Royal Blue SILK WARP, SKEIN, AND HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING. 1 Black 2 Scarlet 3 Green 4 Claret 5 Brown 6 Dark Red 7 Orange 8 Amber 9 Pink 10 Light Pink 11 Peach 12 Light Peach 13 Dark Purple 14 Light Purple 15 Blue 16 Dark Brown 17 Light Brown 18 Poppy Red 19 Dark Fawn 20 Light Fawn 21 Dark Drab 22 Light Drab XVI CONTENTS. 23 Dark Dahlia 24 Light Dahlia 25 Dark Blue 26 Light Blue 27 Dark Green 28 Light Green 29 Dark Slate 30 Light Slate 31 Red Ruby 32 Maze 33 Dark Lavender 34 Light Lavender 35 Dark Maroon 36 Light Maroon 37 Dark Grain Crimson 38 Pontia 39 Rose 40 Dark Apricot 41 Light Apricot 42 Dark Red Purple 43 Light Red Purple 44 Dark Orange 45 Light Orange 46 Dark Olive 47 Light Olive 48 Dark Cinnamon Brown 49 Light Cinnamon Brown 50 Dark Yellow 51 Light Yellow 52 Orange Brown 53 Light Brown 54 How to make Bronze Peach- wood 55 To make Bronze Logwood 56 Copper Liquor 57 Annotta Liquor 58 Copperas Buff 59 Ammoniacal Liquor 60 Extract of Indigo for Printing 61 Dark Prussiate Liquor 62 Sulphate of Indigo NATURE AND USE OF DYEWARES. Alum Annotta Archil Ammonia Argol Super Argol Camwood Catechu Cochineal Chrome, or Bichromate of Potass Cudbear Chemic, or Sulphate of Indigo French Berry or Persian Berry Fustic, or Young Fustic Galls Indigo Kerin es, or Lac Dye Logwood Madder Nitric Acid, or Aqua Fortis Nitrates Oxalic Tin Peachwood Prussiate of Potass Quercitron Bark Safflower Saunders, or Red Sandal Sapan Wood Sumac Turmeric EXAMINATION OF WATER BY TESTS, TIIE DYER’S INSTRUCTOR. WOOL DYEING. No. 1. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— FANCY BLOOM. Boil 1J hours with 1 lb. of Logwood — 1 J lb. of Barwood — Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum. The Alum must be melted before it is thrown upon the wool, and then well stirred in, so as to make it as even as possible. Then boil half an hour longer. — It is bet- ter to melt the saddening, whether it be Alum, Cop- peras, or Blue Vitriol, as bj this means it sooner penetrates the body of the wool, and does not leave a deadness in some parts, as is generally the case when the saddening is put on in the crystal state. No. 2. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DRAB. Boil with f lb. of Barwood — f- lb. of Logwood — 2 ozs. Fustic— Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas — And then spread well out. No. 8. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— HEAVY DRAB. Boil with 8 ozs. of Logwood — 2 lbs. of Barwood — 1 lb. of Fustic — Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas — • Spread out. No. 4. 180 lbs. OF WOOL— SLATE COLOR. Boil with 8 ozs. of Logwood — 2 J lbs. of Barwood — Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum — Spread out. This 2* 17 18 WOOL DYEING. shade may be dyed by first boiling the wool in 1 lb. of Chrome for about an hour, then wash and fill it up in a separate pan, with about 1 lb. of Logwood, and 8 ozs. of Cudbear. — But as this mode of dyeing Drabs will not stand Milling and Scouring so well as the former, I cannot recommend it, though some wool dyers follow this receipt. No. 5. 180 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT GREEN. Boil one hour with 1 lb. of Chrome and 8 ozs. of Alum. Then run off the Liquor, and wash well in clean water ; dye off with 20 lbs. of Fustic and 8 lbs. of Logwood, and then boil to shade required. By adding more Logwood in the finishing, any shade of Dark Green may be got. When not Yellow enough, add a little more Fustic. — The colors dyed by means of Chroming are very difficult to distinguish from those of fast Indigo colors, and can only be distin- guished by a strong Acid : I shall insert a few of them to accommodate those who are not so much acquainted with the nature of Chrome. From this preparation or Mordant almost any shade may be produced, varying from a Light Drab to a Dark Brown, Dark Green, Dark Purple, Dark Claret, or Dark Olive. Peach wood, Logwood, Fustic, Cam- wood, Barwood, and Madder, will work after it. Peachwood itself will make a good Claret after it, producing a blue shade; but when too blue, a little Alum will redden it, and will work as solid and even a color as by any other mode of preparation. No. 6. 180 lbs. OF WOOL.— A DARKER SHADE OF GREEN. Prepare as above with 1 oz. of Chrome — 8 ozs. of Alum. — Boil one hour, then take it out and let it soak an hour or two, and then fill it up in another water with 12 lbs. of Logwood — 11 lbs. of Fustic. WOOL DYEING. 19 No. 7. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT BLUE. Prepare with 8 ozs. of Alum — 8 ozs. of Chrome. — - Fill up with 8 lbs. of Ground Logwood, or Chipped Logwood boiled up in bags. No. 8. 200 lbs. OF WOOL.— LOGWOOD BLUE. Prepare or boil one hour with 1 lb. of Chrome — 4 lbs. of Alum — -1 lb. of Red Argol. Clean and finish with 35 lbs. of Logwood, and boil half an hour in the finishing. — This is a good imitation of Indigo, and it will bear exposure to the atmosphere. I have taken this receipt from my “ Practical Dyer’s Guide.” It has been used by some parties who have purchased the “ Guide,” and they state that the Receipt alone is worth the price of the “ Guide.” No. 9. 50 lbs. OF WOOL.— SAGE DRAB. Prepare as above with 8 ozs. of Chrome — 8 ozs. of Argol — 4 ozs. of Alum — Finish with 1 lb. of Logwood — 8 ozs. of Fustic. If not Red enough, add a handful of Cudbear, and boil an hour. No. 10. 160 lbs. OF WOOL.— BLACK. Boil one hour with 4 lbs. of Chrome — 4 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Red Argol — Finish in a clean ves- sel with 40 lbs. of Logwood — 4 lbs. of Bar wood. The wood must be well boiled up in bags before the wool is entered, cool down a little, and enter at about 180°, then boil the wool about an hour. This is a good Black, and on this principle almost all Blacks are dyed, in stuff goods, and cloth, and wool ; but some dyers think it is not so durable as other modes of dyeing Black. Therefore I will now give two or three different modes of dyeing Blacks on wools. 20 WOOL DYEING. No. A. Another mode is to boil the wool with Camwood (a sufficient quantity for the bloom) for about two hours, then sadden with Copperas, and let it lay in this all night ; next morning, boil it in Logwood for about the same time as before, and then sadden again with Copperas. This mode is preferred by some, being a much finer Black, and will stand Milling without losing any of its color. By the former mode it assumes a slight green appearance in the Milling, and consequently loses a little of its dark- ness. The best Black is that which is dyed with Indigo in the following manner : — No. B. First redden with Camwood as before, but without saddening, and then fill up to the shade in the woad vat.- Either Blue Black or full Black may be dyed in this way, and it is certainly the best and firmest mode of dyeing cloth. It v r ill stand exposure to the atmosphere, and resist any acid applied to it for a test, neither fading nor being diminished in any measure ; even Sulphuric Acid of double strength will not injure the color, but rather brighten it than otherwise. This is an expensive mode of dyeing a Black, but it is worth any amount charged for it, on account of its firmness and durability. No. 11. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— FAST BLUE BLACK. Boil with 10 lbs. of Camwood — 8 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Bed Argol — Leave in the pan all night, then blue up about one half in the vat, and then in another pan boil it one hour with 40 lbs. of Logwood — Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. WOOL DYEING. 21 No. 12. 160 lbs. OF WOOL.— CALIFORNIA COLOR. Prepare or boil one hour with 2 lbs. of Chrome — 2 lbs. of Red Argol — 2 lbs. of Alum. Clean and finish in another vessel with 4 lbs. of Camwood — 40 lbs. of Fustic — 30 lbs. of Crop Madder. If a brighter shade be required, add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol. All the various shades of this color may be dyed after this mode, by increasing or diminishing the same wares, according to shade required. No. 13. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER SHADE OF CALIFORNIA COLOR. Another mode of dyeing this color is as follows: — ■ Boil two hours with 20 lbs. of Fustic— 24 lbs. of Crop Madder — 12 lbs. of Camwood — Sadden with 4 ozs. of Copperas. No. 14. 66 lbs. OF WOOL.— FAWN DRAB. Boil with 4 ozs. of Logwood — If lb. of Barwood — Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum. Get out when boiled to the shade, and spread. No. 15. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK FAWN DRAB. Boil with 3 lbs of Barwood — 3J lbs. of Fustic — 8 ozs. of Logwood — Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. No. 16. 170 lbs. OF WOOL.— MADDER DRAB. Boil with 3J lbs. of Barwood — 3 lbs. of Fustic — 3 lbs. of Logwood — Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. No. 17. 56 lbs. OF WOOL.— FULLER SHADE MADDER DRAB. Boil with 2 J lbs. of Barwood — 3 J lbs. of Fustic — 8 ozs. of Logwood — Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. 22 WOOL DYEING. No. 18. 56 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK SHADE OF MADDER DRAB. Boil with 4 lbs. of Barwood — 5 lbs. of Fustic — 2 lbs. of Logwood — Sadden with 8 lbs. of Copperas. No. 19. 150 lbs. OF WOOL.— BLUE SLATE COLOR. Stuff or boil with 5 lbs. of Logwood — 8 ozs. of Fustic. Boil one hour and sadden with 12 ozs. of Alum. No. 20. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— CRANE BLUE. Stuff with 16 lbs. of Logwood, boil f of an hour — Sadden with 1J lb. of Alum, and boil to pattern. No. 21. 90 lbs. OF WOOL.— FANCY BLOOM. Boil one hour with 8 ozs. of Cudbear — If lb. of Logwood — 1 J lb. of Barwood — Sadden with lib. of Alum. No. 22. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— SILVER DRAB. Stuff with 10 ozs. of Logwood — 8 ozs. of Camwood — Sadden with 3 ozs. of Copperas. No. 23. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— REDDER SHADE OF SILVER DRAB. Stuff with 18 ozs. of Logwood — 10 ozs. of Cud- bear — 3 ozs. of Copperas. No. 24. 60 lbs. OF WOOL.— A VERY LIGHT SHADE OF DRAB. Dye with 1 oz. of Chemic or good extract — 4 ozs. of Alum — 10 ozs. of Logwood — 1 oz. of Copperas. Boil one hour. WOOL DYEING. 23 No 25. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT DRAB, YELLOWER SHADE THAN No. 24. Dye with 6 ozs. of Fustic — 3 ozs. of Logwood — 2 ozs of Sumac — J an oz. of Chemic — 8 ozs. of Alum — 2 ozs of Copperas. No. 26. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— VICUNA DRAB. Stuff with 5 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Mull Madder. —5 lbs of Crop Madder — 3 lbs. of Camwood — Sad- den witb 7 ozs. of Copperas. No. 27. 50 lbs. OF WOOL.— REDDER SHADE OF VICUNA. Stuff witb 5 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Mull Mad- der — 1 lb. of Crop Madder — 2J lbs. of Camwood — • Sadden witb 7 ozs. of Copperas. These are shades somewhat of the California color. No. 28. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— FINE RED LAVENDER. Stuff witb 5 lbs. of Logwood — 3 lbs. of Cudbear — 8 ozs. of Camwood — Sadden with 10 ozs. of Cop- peras. When shades are not required so bright, but rather of a flat and dead lavender, add a little Fustic in the stuffing. No. 29. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT OLIVE. Stuff with 40 lbs. of Fustic — 3 lbs of Logwood — - 2 lbs. of Camwood — Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas. No. 30. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— GREENER OLIVE. Stuff with 7 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Logwood — 5 lbs. of Mull Madder — 6 ozs. of Camwood — Sadden with 12 ozs. of Copperas. 24 WOOL DYEING. No. 31. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— REDDER SHADE OF OLIYE. Stuff with 30 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Camwood — 20 lbs. of Mull Madder — 7 lbs. of Crop Madder — 20 ozs. of Logwood — Sadden with 20 ozs. of Cop- peras. No. 32. 135 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK OLIYE. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic — 2 ozs. of Alum — 7J lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Madder — Sadden with 1J lb. of Copperas — 1J lb. of Blue Yitriol. No. 33. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER GREEN OLIYE. Stuff with 50 lbs. of Fustic — 4 lbs. of Camwood — 9 lbs. of Logwood — Boil well for an hour and a half— Sadden with 1 lb. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Cop- peras — Boil well in the saddening. No. 34. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK GREEN OLIYE, CHROMED. Prepare or boil an hour with If lb. of Chrome — 12 ozs. of Alum. Then spread it on the floor all night, and next morning fill up with 45 lbs. of Fustic — 12 lbs. of Camwood— 6 lbs. of Logwood. This shade of Olive is similar to that of No. 33, but dyed in quite a different manner. Some dyers think that the latter mode is the better and the faster color, but I think it is not so durable as the former. The Olive shades are mostly dyed according to one of these two modes, but neither can be called fast Olives. The Fast Olive is dyed by being first dyed Blue in the Woad vat, and then filled up after in the following manner : — WOOL DYEING. 25 No. 35. 12 stones OF WOOL. — TRUE OLIVE. After blueing to about a middle shade in the Woad vat — Stuff with 100 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Logwood — 3 lbs. of Madder— 2 \ lbs. of Alum — Sadden with 2J lbs. of Copperas. Darker or lighter shades may be dyed by blueing darker or lighter in the vat, according to shade required. Any shade of true Olive may be dyed after this manner, even down to a Sage Drab, by blueing light enough in the W oad vat. No. 36. 80 lbs. OF WOOL.— V ANT COLOR, NEARLY CANARY COLOR. Prepare with 1 lb. of Chrome — 8 ozs. of Alum — Boil an hour, get the wool out, and let it drain well, then fill up in a vessel of clean water, with 20 lbs. of Chipped Fustic — Boil half an hour. If a redder shade is required, add a little Barwood, as it will cause it to have more of an Orange hue. This is not Canary color, which is dyed with Bark or Young Fustic ; nor is it so lively, but resembles the light shade of California color. No. 37. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT BROWN. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic — 30 lbs. of Camwood — Boil two hours, then sadden with 2 lbs. of Cop- peras, and spread. No. 38. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— MIDDLE BROWN. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic — 30 lbs. of Camwood — 1 lb. of Logwood — Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. No. 39. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER BROWN. Stuff with 45 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Camwood — 1J lb. of Logwood — Sadden with 1J lb. of Cop- 3 26 WOOL DYEING. peras. These are good Browns, and will stand Mill- ing, but the Browns dyed first in the Woad vat are more permanent. No. 40. 90 lbs. OF WOOL.— TRUE BROWN. First bine a light shade in the Woad vat, then stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. of Madder— 2 or 3 lbs. of Camwood — 4 ozs. of Logwood— Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas — 4 ozs. of Blue Vitriol. Either lighter or darker shades of Browns may be dyed after this mode ; by dyeing in vat according to shade, darker Blue for darker Browns, and lighter Blues for lighter Browns, or by adding more or less Logwood in the Stuffing, and more or less Copperas in the saddening. No. 41. 160 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT GREEN. Dye off with 40 lbs. of Fustic — 2 quarts of Chemic — 4 lbs. of Argol — 8 lbs. of Alum — Boil one hour. This is a good bright Green. Darker shades of Green may be dyed by adding more Chemic. No. 42. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— MOSS GREEN. This color may be dyed by means of the Chrom- ing process, and filling up with Fustic and Logwood ; but as by this mode it is not fast, the proper mode is to blue it in the vat first to shade, and then stuff with— 50 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Madder — 8 ozs. of Logwod — 2 lbs. of Camwood — Sadden with 4 ozs. of Copperas — 2 ozs. of Blue Vitriol. It is diffi- cult to distinguish between the true Green and the other, as such a near resemblance can be produced by the former mode. Nearly all the shades of Green, from this up to the Invisible, and all the various shades of Bottle Green may bed yed, either with the yellow or blue hue upon them, and will WOOL DYEING. 27 appear equally as good, and can only be distinguished by a test of strong Sulphuric Acid. No. 43. 100 lbs. of WOOL.— A GOOD BOTTLE GREEN, CHROMED. Boil one hour with 1 lb. of Chrome — 2 lbs. of Alum — Finish in a vessel of clean water with 30 lbs. of Fustic — 15 lbs. of Logwood — Boil an hour in the finishing. No. 44. 100 lbs. of WOOL.— INVISIBLE GREEN, CHROMED. Prepare same as No. 43, and finish the same, only add more Logwood and less Fustic, say — 20 lbs. of Fustic — 30 lbs. of Logwood. All the various shades of rifles may be died after this manner. I will next give a receipt for the true Green. No. 45. 24 stones OF WOOL.— BOTTLE GREEN, TRUE COLOR. After dyeing a dark Indigo Blue in the vat, boil two hours with 80 lbs. of Fustic — 40 lbs. of Log- wood — 8 ozs. of Alum. The Invisible is dyed after the same manner, but still darker ; the real fast Green is dyed entirely without Logwood. No. 46. 12 stones OF WOOL.— VIOLET OR MULBERRY. After being blued to a dark blue in the vat — Boil one hour with 100 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of Argol. Then fish up and add 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin; if not dark enough, add more Log- wood, and boil half an hour more. The Plum color, Mulberry, and Adelaide, have been dyed upon this mode for the true colors, but the better mode is that of Chroming first, the same as for Black and 28 WOOL DYEING. other colors, and then redden and darken with Cud- bear and Logwood, as any shade of darkness may be got by adding more Logwood, and then putting it through the vat. These would be faster colors, and have more solidity about them. No. 47. 130 lbs. OF WOOL.— FINE CLARET. Boil two hours with 70 lbs. of Camwood or Sand- ers — 1 lb. of Logwood — Sadden with 2 J lbs. of Cop- peras. No. 48. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER CLARET. Boil two hours with 70 lbs. of Camwood — Then take up and let it drain an hour or two, and sadden with 3 lbs. of Copperas — 8 lbs. of Logwood. No. 49. 130 lbs. OF WOOL— RUSSIAN BROWN. Stuff with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 40 lbs. of Red Sanders — Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas — 1 lb. of Alum. No. 50. 240 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK BROWN. Stuff with 130 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. of Crop Madder — 50 lbs. of Camwood — 4 lbs. of Logwood — Boil two hours, then sadden with 10 lbs. of Cop- peras — Smother all night. No. 51 A. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— LAC SCARLET. Dye with 2 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 1 lb. of Young Fustic — 4 lbs. of Lac — 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — Boil one hour. No. 51 B. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— FULL PINK. Dye with 2 lbs. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Cochineal paste — 2 pints of Spirits — Boil one hour. 29 WOOL DYEING. No. 52. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— WINE COLOR. Dye off with 6 lbs. of Cudbear. If a Blue shade is wanted add a little Ammonia, and if a Redder shade, a little Spirits of Salts. No. 53. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 3 lbs. of Prussiate — 3 quarts of Blue Spirits. The wool must be entered cold, and the liquor heated up to a boil as soon as possible, and when boiled half an hour take it out and add 2 pints of Finishing Spirits. If a darker shade is required add Logwood according to shade with the Finishing Spirits ; or it is preferable to add the Logwood at the beginning with the Prussiate for Wools. Royal Blues that have to stand Milling and Steaming should always have as much Ammonia as Blue Spirits at the beginning, as it makes them much firmer and cleaner. No. 54. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye with 2 lbs. of Cochineal paste — 1 lb. of dry Cochineal — 2 pints of Spirits — 2 lbs. of Tartar — Boil one hour. No. 55. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— GRAIN SCARLET. Dye with 2 lbs. of Tartar — 1J lb. of Dry Cochi- neal — 3 pints of Spirits — 2 lbs. of Young Fustic — Boil one hour. No. 56. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— FULL YELLOW. Dye with 1 lb. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Bark — 2 lbs. of Young Fustic — 2 pints of Spirits — Boil twenty minutes. 3 * 30 WOOL DYEING. No. 57. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— OEANGE. Dry with 8 ozs. of Cochineal — 7 lbs. of Young Fustic — 1 lb. of Tartar — 2 pints of Spirits. No. 58. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— CANAEY COLOR. Dye with 1J lb. of Bark — 1 lb. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Alum — 1 quart of Spirit. Boil twenty minutes. No. 59. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— SKY BLUE. Dry with J a gill of liquid Extract — 1 lb. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil twenty minutes. No. 60. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— SAXONY BLUE. Dye with 1 pint of Liquid Extract — 1 lb. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil twenty minutes. COTTON DYEING. No. 1. 20 lbs. OP COTTON.— BUFF. After being boiled and properly wet, run through a clear Lime Liquor, then through a weak Copperas Liquor, both cold liquor ; repeat in each liquor until the shade be full enough. Another mode of dyeing Buff is: No. 2. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BUFF. Bun the Cotton through Nitrate of Iron, at about 4° Twaddell, and then through a weak Ammonia Liquor in another tub; repeat in each until the shade be full enough. Both these are firm Buff colors. No. 3. 20. lbs. OF COTTON.— BUFF, OR NANKIN. Shave 4 lbs. of Spanish Annotta into 30 gallons of water, to which add 2 lbs. of Pearlash ; boil it well up, let it settle, and drain off the clear liquor ; run the Cotton in this Liquor until you get the shade required. All the various shades of light Buffs, Nankin colors, and Straw colors as well, may be dyed from Annotta by adding little enough of it for the shade. The fine Straw colors which have a yellow tinge have bleached bottoms, that is, they are first bleached, and then dyed in the following manner 31 32 COTTON DYEING. No. 4. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— STKAW COLOR. After being bleached, boil or scald, as may be convenient, 10 lbs. of Fustic in 10 gallons of water, with a few lbs. of Alum, and add clear Liquor accord- ing to shade, in a tub of cold water. If fuller shades are wanted, add a little Alum Liquor. The most lively colors of this class are dyed after this manner for two-colored Damasks, and other goods that are made up with Silk weft. No. 5. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FLESH COLOR. In a tub of cold water, add 2 gallons of spent An- riotta, and 1 gallon of Turmeric Liquor; the Turme- ric must be boiled up with a little Alum, about 4 ozs. to the gallon of water. A great variety of shades of this color may be dyed by adding more of the one and less of the other of the two ingredients, Annotta and Turmeric. No. 6. 20. lbs. OF COTTON.— SAFFLOWER PINK. Squeeze the Liquor from 4. lbs. of Safflower into a tub ; give 10 turns in cold water. If the shade be too blue, add about 1 tot of Oil of Vitriol, and give it a few turns more. Nearly the same shade may be dyed upon bleached cotton in the following manner : First, steep it in 4 lbs. of Sumac in a tub, after which it must be spirited in a tub of cold water, with either Muriate or Nitro-Muriate of Tin. The Liquor must stand at 2° Twaddell. Then add to another tub of cold water 5 lbs. of Spent Peachwood. To spend the Peachwood, let it boil a few minutes, or be well scalded, and so with all the other woods. COTTON DYEING. 83 No. 7. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT PINK. This shade is dyed in the same manner as No. 6, with the exception of having less Sumac and Peach- wood; of Sumac, 2 lbs. instead of 4 lbs., and of Peachwood, 2J lbs. instead of 5 lbs. No. 8. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SCARLET. It must be first steeped in 4 lbs. of Sumac, then spirited with Muriate of Tin, at 2° Twaddell, and then dyed with 2 lbs. of Peachwood and 3 lbs. of Bark, previously spent ; let the Liquor be lukewarm. Give 10 turns, and then wash off for the stove. If a Yellower shade of Scarlet is required, add more Bark ; if a Bluer shade, less Bark ; if a lighter shade of Scarlet, add less of both Peachwood and Bark ; and if a darker shade of Scarlet is required, add more of both Peachwood and Bark. No. 9. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT CINNA- MON BROWN. Boil up 2 lbs. of Yellow Catechu with 2 gallons of water, add to it 4 ozs. of Blue Yitriol, and let it boil twenty minutes. In another vessel dissolve 8 ozs. of Chrome, and keep it at the boiling heat ; run the Cotton in the Catechu first, give 8 turns, wring out, enter the Chrome tub, give 8 turns more, wring out, and wash off for the stove. No. 10. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER SPIADE OF LIGHT BROWN. This shade is dyed the same as No. 9, with the exception of having 2 lbs. of Black Catechu instead of 2 lbs. of Yellow. When the shade is not Yellow enough, add to the Catechu a little Fustic, or Turme- ric, which is preferable. Any shade of Cinnamon 34 COTTON DYEING. Brown may be dyed by varying the Catechu and Turmeric, giving more of the one and less of the other, according to the shade required. No. 11. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARK SHADES OF BROWN. These shades must be first steeped in Sumac, then saddened with a little Copperas Liquor in another tub, and a little Urine amongst it, and then dyed in all respects the same as the other two Browns. No. 12. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— CHROME YELLOW. Dissolve 8 ozs. of white Sugar of Lead in one tub, and 8 ozs. c>f Chrome in another ; enter the tub with the Sugar of Lead first* cold ; give five turns, and then enter the Chrome, and give five turns, and wring out ; enter the other tub again, give five turns more, and then wash off for the stove. No. 13. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER SHADE OF CHROMED YELLOW. Dissolve 8 ozs. of Brown Sugar of Lead, and 8 ozs. of Chrome, each in a separate tub; enter the Sugar of Lead first, give 6 ends, then enter the Chrome, give 6 turns in it; repeat three times in the Sugar of Lead tub, and twice in the Chrome ; wash off out of the Sugar of Lead tub for the stove. No. 14. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL CHROME ORANGE. First make up a tub of cold water, to which add 4 pailfuls of Lime Lee, or clear Lime Water; enter the Cotton and turn four rounds ; dissolve 4 lbs. of Brown Sugar of Lead in 6 quarts of water; in another tub of cold water add 2 quarts of this solution, enter COTTON DYEING. 35 the cotton, give three turns, squeeze out. Enter into another tub of clear lime water, give three turns in this, and in each of the two last tubs, repeat three times, adding to the first tub 1 quart of the solution, and to the other fresh Lime Liquor each time before you enter. Then dissolve two lbs. of Chrome in 4 quarts of water, make up a tub at about 20°, and add 2 quarts of the Chrome Liquor ; enter the Cotton into this, give three turns, and wring it out ; then enter the Sugar of Lead tub, and add 1 quart more of the solution that is left, repeat three times, and add 1 quart of the solution each time, and finish out of the Chrome. In this state it will appear very uneven, as the at- mosphere affects it very much, but it will become even in the raising of it, which is done as follows : Into a pan or vessel of any sort with an open top, add 7 pailfuls of clear Lime Water; bring it just up to the spring and scum it well ; do not let it boil ; after scumming cool down a little, enter the cotton, and give five turns. Be careful not to add too much Lime Water or it will destroy the beauty of the color. This color, like some others, will feel rather rough, and therefore must be run through a little softening, which is made as follows: Dissolve 8 ozs. of Pearlash or Soda in 1 gallon of warm Water, to which add one pint of Fish Oil, mix it well together, and give it a little of it in a tub of warm water. No. 15. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST DRAB. Boil up 6 lbs. of Mahogany Sawdust — Draw the clear liquor into a tub and give five turns — Raise in the same Liquor with one gill of Nitrate of Iron. The Drabs dyed in this way are very fast, and a great variety of Shades may be dyed by adding more or less of the wood according to Shade. 36 COTTON DYEING. No. 16. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST BLUE. To a Tub of Cold Water add 1 lb. of Copperas dissolved — } of a Noggin of Muriatic Acid — Give 5 turns and wring out. To another Tub of Cold Water add 8 ozs. of dissolved Prussiate — Give 5 turns and take up. Add about 1 Noggin of Oil of Yitriol — Give 5 turns more and wash off for the Stove. No. 17. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LAVENDER. To a Tub of Cold Water add 2 lbs. of Logwood previously scalded, and use only the clear Liquor — Add to it 1 lb. of Alum — Enter and give 6 or 8 turns ■ — Lift up and add 8 ozs. of Sweet Extract — 2 lbs. more Alum — Give 6 turns, and if a Redder Shade is required, add more Logwood Liquor, and if Bluer, more Extract. No. 18. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LILAC. To a Tub of Cold Water add 3 lbs. of Logwood — 1J lb. of Alum, or a little Red Liquor, which is pre- ferable in this class of colors ; give 6 or 8 turns. Lighter or darker Shades may be dyed by adding more or less Logwood. No. 19. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SILVER DRAB. In a tub of cold water, add about 4 ozs. of Log- wood and 1 quart of clear Lime W ater ; give about 8 turns, and wash off for the stove. No. 20. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— GOOD LIGHT DRAB. In a tub of cold water, add J- an oz. of Logwood and 1 lb. of Fustic ; give 10 turns, then lift up, and add 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, and give 8 turns more, then wash off’ for the stove. COTTON DYEING. 87 No. 21. 20 lbs. OF COTTON. — FULLER SHADE OF No. 20. In all respects dye the same, but add double the quantity of both Fustic and Logwood. No. 22. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT OLIYE. In a tub of cold water, add 5 lbs. of Fustic, pre- viously scalded, and 1J lb. of Logwood; give 10 turns, then lift up, and raise by adding 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol ; give 10 turns more, and wash off for the stove. No. 28. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER OLIVE. In a tub of cold water, add 4 lbs. of Sumac ; steep in this for an hour. Sadden in another tub of cold water, with 2 lbs. of dissolved Copperas, give 8 turns, wring out, enter another tub of warm water, with J a pailful of Urine. Then dye in another tub with 6 lbs. of Fustic, and raise in the same liquor with 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. No. 24. 24 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARK OLIVE. Dark shades of Olive are dyed same as No. 28, but adding with the Fustic a little Logwood, accord- ing to the shade of darkness, and when not Yellow enough, add a little more Fustic Liquor, or Turmeric Liquor, which is preferable for dark colors. No. 25. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL YELLOW DRAB. In a tub of warm water, add 8 ozs. of Turmeric, 4 ozs. of Logwood, and 8 lbs. of Fustic ; raise in the same Liquor with 2J lbs. of Alum. Give 10 turns before and 10 turns after saddening, and wash off for the stove. 4 88 COTTON DYEING. No. 26. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT BUFF. In a tub of cold water, add a little Nitrate of Iron; give 10 turns, lift up, and raise with a little lime water and a little potash in the same liquor ; give a few turns more and wash off. No. 27. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT BLUE. Bun through the Copperas Yat one end. How to dye the same shade with Extract : in a tub of cold water, add 10 ozs. of Sweet Extract, aud 2 lbs. of Alum. Various shades of Light Blue may be dyed with Extract, by adding more or less, according to shade required. Give 10 turns, and then dry off. No. 28. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT EX- TBACT GBEEN. In a tub of water at about 100°, add 8 ozs. of Turmeric, previously scalded ; give 10 turns, lift up, and add 4 lbs. of Alum and 1 lb. of Extract ; enter again, and give 10 turns more, and then wash off for the stove. Various shades of Green may be dyed after this manner by adding Extract according to shade. The Extract must be well mixed before it is used. Greens of this dye are not so permanent as those with a Copperas Vat Blue bottom. No. 29. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— MIDDLE SHADE OF GBEEN. First run the Cotton through the Copperas Vat, and get a moderate shade of Blue, after which wash it well. In another tub add 15 lbs; of scalded Fustic, enter the Cotton, and give 10 turns ; lift up, add 4 lbs. of Alum, and give 10 turns more. If the shade is required bluer, add more Extract in the same liquor: COTTON DYEING. 39 No. 30, 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DABK SHADE OF GBEEN. Dark shades of Green must have a darker Blue bottom, and are dyed in all respects the same as No. 29. No. 31. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— CnEOMED AND FAST GEEENS. Blue according to the shade required in the Cop- peras Yat, for light shade of Green. In a tub of cold water add 1 lb. of Sugar of Lead, enter the Cot- ton, and give 5 ends ; in another tub of hot water add 1 lb. of melted Chrome, give five turns, wring out, repeat twice, and finish off in the Sugar of Lead, and then wash off for the stove. Dark Chromed Greens are dyed darker in the Copperas Yat first, and have about one-half more Chrome, and are dyed in all respects the same as light Greens. No. 32. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT CATE- CHU BBOWN. Spend 3 lbs. of Catechu with 3 ozs. of Blue Yitriol ; put this into a tub of warm water, enter the Cotton, give 8 turns, wring out, and enter another tub of hot water with 8 ozs. of Chrome, at the boiling point ; give 6 ends, and then wash off for the stove. No. 33. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DAEKEE CATE- CHU BBOWN. In a tub of hot water, add 4 lbs. of Catechu ; give 6 turns ; in another tub of hot water, add 8 ozs. of Chrome, enter, give 5 turns, wash out, and repeat once more in each tub, and then wash off for the stove. 40 COTTON DYEING. No. 34. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARK CATE- CHU BROWN. Spend 8 lbs. of Catechu with 8 ozs. of Blue Vit- riol, enter the Cotton, and for convenience let it stay in it all night, after giving it a few tnrns. Then in another tub of hot water add 1 lb. of Chrome, enter and give a few turns, wash out of the Chrome, and repeat twice or three times. No. 35. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL DARK CATECHU BROWN. A darker class of colors may be dyed by using one-half of Yellow Catechu and one-half of the Black Catechu, and for very Red shades use all Black Catechu. If very dark shades are required, they must be first Sumaced and Saddened, and then dyed in the same way. No. 36. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL YELLOW SCARLET. Scald 4 lbs. of Sumac, and add it to a tub of cold water, and steep the Cotton pn it for a few hours. Make up another tub of cold water, and add Nitro- Muriate of Tin until it stands at 2° Twaddell ; enter the Cotton into this, and give about 10 turns. In another tub, add 4 lbs. of Peachwood and 1 lb. of Turmeric, both previously spent; enter the Cotton, give 10 turns, and raise in the same Liquor, with 2 lbs. of Alum ; let the Liquor be at about 100° Twad- dell. No. 37. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BARWOOD RED. In a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Sumac, give a few turns and steep in it all night. In another tub of cold water add Spirits until it stands at 3° Twad- COTTON DYEING. 41 dell ; give 8 turns, wash in cold water, and warm also. Then in a Copper or Block Tin Vessel, add 20 lbs. of Barwood, boil up 15 minutes before the cotton is put in, then cool down a little and enter the cotton, bring it up to a spring boil and turn it on until it comes up to the shade ; say about an hour. No. 38. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— IMITATION OF TURKEY RED. This color is dyed the same as Barwood red, ex- cept when it has boiled about an hour, take out of the vessel and add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, and boil it a short time longer. The oil will give it a much bluer appearance, and will very much imitate the Turkey Red. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less of the Barwood. No. 39. VARIOUS SHADES OF SILVER DRAB. A good Silver Drab of a very light color may be dyed by first giving a few turns in a little Gall Liquor, and then lift up and add a little Nitrate of Iron, and give a few turns more, and wash off for the stove. A few Valonias will produce nearly the same effect, but not quite so fine a shade. The Valo- nias must be boiled with a little water to get the strength out of them. A great variety of Blue Drabs can be dyed by first Sumacing the cotton, and then in another tub add a little Nitrate of Iron or Copperas liquor, and give a few turns. By adding more Iron or Copperas liquor the shades may be dyed up to a dark Slate color, and by adding a iittle Ammonia, a class of Redder shades may be dyed, and Yellower by adding a little Fustic. 4* 42 COTTON DYEING. No. 40. VARIOUS SHADES OF FAWN DRABS. A great variety of Fawn Drabs may be dyed by adding to a tub of cold water a little Catechu, and then a little more according to shades required ; and when flatter shades are wanted, add a little Copperas liquor, which will sadden it. Almost any variety of shade may be dyed after this manner. Then another class of heavier shades must have a little Sumac with the Catechu, and be saddened with a little Nitrate of Iron, or Copperas Liquor. No. 41. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— GOOD BLACK. In a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Sumac, give a few turns and steep it all night in the Sumac ; then in another tub of cold water add a few pails of Lime water, wring out ; in another tub of cold water, add 2 lbs. of dissolved Copperas and a pailful of the old Sumac liquor ; enter and give 6 turns, then wring out, enter the lime tub again, and give 2 pails more Lime liquor ; then scald 6 lbs. of Logwood, and 1 lb. of Fustic, add this to another tub of water, enter the Cotton, and give 10 turns, lift up, and sadden with a little Copperas in the same liquor. No. 42. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— A GOOD BLACK TO STAND MILLING AND SCOURING. Steep all night with 6 lbs, of Sumac, pass through Lime liquor, and sadden with Copperas as before ; repeat in each of the last 2 tubs, adding more Lime and Copperas to each, pass through Logwood and wash oft*. Both the last Blacks must be softened with a little Oil and Soda Ash. J COTTON DYEING. 43 No. 43. FAST BLACK. This black is first dyed in the Copperas vat, and must have a good Blue bottom, and be dyed in all respects same as No. 42. No. 44. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST PURPLE. This color must have a blue bottom in the Cop- peras vat, and afterwards it must have a few turns in a tub of cold water with a little Muriate of Tin, at 2° T waddell. In another tub of water add 4 or 5 lbs. of Logwood, previously spent, enter the Cotton and give 8 turns. This is the best purple that can be dyed, possessing a very bright appearance. Light- er or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Logwood according to shade. No. 45. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST LAVENDER. Lavender shades are dyed the same as No. 44, but are dyed a much lighter blue in the vat, and with less Logwood in the filling up. These are decidedly the best shades of Lavender that can be dyed, espe- cially for warps which have to be made up with white weft ; they will stand any reasonable quantity of Acid, and are much better for the Piece Dyer. No. 46. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SKY BLUE. The various shades of light Blues are dyed in the Copperas vat; they can be varied almost to any shade by passing them oftener through. These shades are much better than the Chinese Blues, which will not stand passing through warm water without washing off. 44 COTTON DYEING. No. 47. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BAKK YELLOW. Boil 10 lbs. of Bark in a bag in a vessel of water for fifteen minutes ; take out the bag, and add to the liquor 1 quart of Muriate of Tin; cool down, enter the cotton, and give it 6 turns sharply ; if not full enough, take it out and add 1 gill more spirit. No. 48. OTHEE YELLOWS. Perhaps the Turmeric Yellow is the cheapest of any, but it is not so permanent as that dyed with Bark or Fustic, and nothing like the Chrome Yellow: though almost any shade of Yellow may be dyed upon cotton, by first boiling in a little water a very small quantity of Sulphuric Acid, or a little Alum, and using only the clear liquor ; 2 or 3 lbs. will dye a fair shade of yellow upon 20 lbs. of Cotton. No. 49. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— PEACHWOOD BED. Scald 5 lbs. of Sumac, and steep the cotton in it all night. In a tub of cold water, add about 1 quart of Spirits ; give 10 turns in this, and wash ; then scald 5 lbs. of Peaehwood, in which Liquor work the cotton until you get the shade required. If a lighter shade is wanted, add less Peaehwood. No. 50. CEIMSONS AND PINKS. Various shades of Crimsons and Pinks may be dyed in the following manner : First Spirit at about 6° Twaddell, and then enter the Peaehwood in quantity according to shade required, whether Crim- son or Pink. This is the quickest way they can be dyed, except by adding both the Spirits and the Wood together, which will answer equally as well. After dyeing a good Crimson, a variety of Pinks COTTON DYEING. 45 may be dyed in the same liquor, by giving about 6 or 8 turns in it. No. 51. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— CLARETS. For a full Claret, steep the Cotton in 5 lbs. of Sumac all night, then Spirit in another tub at about 2° Twaddell; then wash, scald 3 or 4 lbs. of Log- wood, add this to a tub of warm water, give 8 turns, lift up, throw out the old Liquor, and add as much more Logwood ; give 8 ends more and raise in the same Liquor with a little Alum. Lighter shades are dyed in the same manner, but must have less Wood. When Redder shades are required, add a little Peachwood and Logwood. No. 52. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— RUBY. Sumac as for Claret, and Spirit the same ; then boil np 6 lbs. of Sapanwood in a few gallons of water ; strain off the Liquor, and put it into a tub of warm water ; give 10 turns and raise with a little Alum. No. 53. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— PLUM COLOR. Prepare with Sumac and Spirits, as before, then boil up 5 lbs. of Logwood and 2 lbs. of Peachwood ; or it may be scalded and strained into a tub, to render the liquor clear ; give ten ends, and raise with a little Alum in the same liquor ; give 6 ends, and wash off*. No. 54. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— MAROON. This color may be dyed in the same manner as No. 52, using Peachwood instead of Sapanwood. The best mode of dyeing it is by first Sumacing with 5 lbs. of Sumac, and then saddening with 2 lbs. of Copperas, or a little Nitrate of Iron, which is pre- ferable ; then wash and enter a tub with 6 lbs. of 46 COTTON DYEING. Peach wood; give 10 turns, lift up, and add 1 pint of Spirits to the same Liquor to raise with ; or raise in another tub with Spirits ; by adding a little more Spirits, the brightest and fullest Crimson may be dyed, and will stand wearing much better than some other modes of dyeing the same color. No. 55. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BLUE PURPLE. In a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Sumac ; steep in this all night, if convenient ; then in another tub spirit with 1 pint of Spirits, and wash out of the spirit tub ; then enter another tub with 4 or 5 lbs. of Logwood, give 8 turns, lift up, add 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals, give 8 turns more and wash off. No. 56. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL PURPLE. First Sumac, then sadden with Copperas, wash out of the Copperas, then scald 5 lbs. of Logwood in another tub, and give 10 turns ; it will now be a good black, but must be raised with a pint of Spirits in the same tub. Purple warps dyed on this prin- ciple are very good and permanent. No. 57. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SAXON BLUE. This color may be dyed in the Copperas vat, but not so bright as with Prussiate of Potash. To dye with Prussiate it must be first ironed or turned in a tub of cold water with about 1 quart of Nitrate of Iron until it becomes a light buff; it must then pass through weak Ammonia in another tub, then wash it; dissolve about 1 lb. of Prussiate and add it to another tub of cold water, give about ten turns, then lift up, and add 1 noggin of Oil of Vitriol ; enter again, and give 10 turns, and wash off for the Stove. For darker shades add more Prussiate. COTTON DYEING. 47 No. 58. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FLAT ROYAL BLUB. This color is first dyed in the Copperas vat, and then dyed in the same way as No 57, so that by having a vat bine bottom it takes less Prussiate. No. 59. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BRIGHT ROYAL BLUE. In the first tub make up a decoction of Nitrate of Iron, at 3° Twaddell, about 3 pints ; give 6 turns ; in another tub of water add 3 lbs. of dissolved Prus- siate, give 6 turns, lift up and add one gill of Oil of Yitriol; give 6 turns more. To the tub with the Iron in, add 1 lb. of Tin Crystals, pass through the Iron 4 times, and through the Prussiate 3 times. No. 60. VICTORIA BLUE. This color is dyed in most respects same as No. 59, but with this difference, the Crystals of Tin are added to the Iron at the beginning, and the Oil of Yitriol is not added until the last time in the Prus- siate. There is little difference in these two blues; the latter may be somewhat more bloomy. No. 61. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— NAPOLEON BLUE. This is the most bloomy shade that has yet been produced upon Cotton Fabrics or Cotton Yarns. In the first place add 1 q«uart of Muriate of Tin to a tub of cold water, enter the cotton and give 8 turns ; in another tub add the clear liquor from 4 lbs. of Logwood, then add to another tub of cold water 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron, and 2 lbs. of Crystals of Tin ; enter the cotton and give 6 turns, then in another tub add 3 lbs. of melted Prussiate; enter this and give 6 turns, repeat 2 or 3 times ; then to 48 COTTON DYEING. the Prussiate add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, pass through and wash off for the stove. No. 62. ON BLEACHING COTTON. The Warps or Yarns are first steeped in Pearlash Liquor, at boiling point, to soften the grease and dirt. Some Bleachers wash out in warm Pearlash Liquor, after which they are passed through a so- lution of Chloride of Lime ; then they are washed in more Pearlash water. Both these processes are re- peated until the goods become sufficiently White; they are then taken and boiled in a weak solution of Pearlash and White Soap, which removes all smell of the Chlorine, and gives to the Cotton a beautiful whiteness. A much readier way of Bleach- ing is that of steeping the cotton as in the former mode, and then passing it through Chloride of Lime and Oil of Vitriol until it assumes a good white ap- pearance. Care must be taken not to use too much Oil of Vitriol, as that would have a tendency to de- stroy the strength of the fabric. No. 63. HOW TO SPEND CATECHU. Let it be well boiled with 1 or 2 ozs. of Blue Vit- riol to every pound of Catechu, and about 10 times its weight of water. No. 64. HOW TO MAKE THE SPIRITS FOR COTTON DYEING PURPOSES. Add 1 lb. of Aquafortis to five lbs. of Spirits of Salts, and kill them with about 2 J ozs. of Tin to the pound. The Tin may be all added at first either in a bottle or in a jar. No. 65. ON STEEPING. Warps and Hanks should be well wet before they are dyed, or they will not dye even ; they should be COTTON DYEING. 49 steeped in boiling water for a few hours at least, or boiled, if convenient, so as to penetrate through every thread. No. 66. HOW TO SPEND ANNOTTA. It must be well boiled with about 1 gallon of water to the pound, and f lb. of Pearlashes. No. 67. HOW TO SPEND TUKMERIC FOR COTTON DYEING-. It must be boiled up with water, and much of the strength will bleed out of it without acid or alkali ; but about 8 ozs. of Alum to 1 lb. of Turmeric is generally used. Pearlash will bleed more strength out of it, but it will not dye so bright and clear a Yellow, but will be more of the Olive cast. No. 68. HOW TO SPEND SAFFLOWER. In the first place put the quantity required into a bag, and steep it in water for a few hours to soften it; then it must be trodden well and rinsed again in the water, and so on repeatedly until all the Yellow coloring matter is extracted, as it is of no use what- ever to dyers ; then the flowers will have a bright crimson appearance, and must be put to steep in cold water sufficient to cover them, and to every pound of flower there must be added 8 ozs. of Pearlash, previously dissolved, and afterwards well mixed amongst the flowers so as to extract all the Red coloring matter from them; it will take a few hours to do this ; it must then be squeezed either between the hands or in a press, and the clear liquor used for dyeing purposes. Alone it will dye a very Blue shade of Pink, but requires a little Tartaric or Sul- phuric Acid to redden it, when a Red shade is re- quired. It should be well rubbed before it is put into the bags to steep in the water. SILK DYEING. ■No. 1. 10 lbs. OF SILK. — LAVENDER. In a tub of warm water at 20°, add 1 lb. of Ex tract of Indigo, 4 lbs. of Alum, previously dissolved, and a little Pium Liquor, according to the shade of redness required. By adding more Extract, a darker shade may be dyed, and a lighter by adding less of it. By varying the quantities of Extract and Plum Liquor, all the various shades of Lavender may be dyed. No. 2. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LAVENDER, No. 2. Another mode of dyeing the foregoing colors is as follows : First dye the Silk, at boiling heat, with a little Cudbear, according to the shade of redness required, and afterwards make up a tub of warm water, at about 20°, and add 4 lbs. of Alum, and Ex- tract according to the shade of blueness it requires. No. 3. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LAVENDER. Make up a tub of warm water, at about 20°, add 1 lb. of Extract, and in the place of Alum, add Red Liquor, and Logwood, about 2 or 3 quarts. The Logwood must be boiled up with the Red Liquor, about 2 lbs. of Logwood to a gallon. Any variety of shades may be dyed in this way. Another mode ctf dyeing the Red shades of Lavender is by passing 50 SILK DYEING. 51 them through the Plum vat when it is nearly worn out for the Plum colors. No. 4. SPIRIT YELLOWS. This color is dyed by being passed through strong Nitric Acid, and then through a little Soda or Soda ashes in warm water. This will produce a good full Yellow or light Orange. No. 5. WOLD YELLOW. In a Copper boil up a bunch of Wold, say 4 lbs. fasten it in the bottom of the vessel, add a few ounces of Pearlash, then put into another vessel as much of this clear Liquor as the shade may require, with about 4 ozs. of Alum. The Wold Yellows are very light bright colors, and very fast. No. 6. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— BARK YELLOW. Boil up in a bag about 4 lbs. of Quercitron Bark either in a Copper or clean Tub, add 2 lbs. of Alum and 1 pint of Nitrate or Muriate of Tin. This will produce a good full shade of Yellow, and by adding more or less of Bark and Spirits, any shade of Yel- low may be dyed. No. 7. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— TURMERIC YELLOW. In a tub scald about 4 lbs. of Turmeric, and dye with the clear Liquor in another tub, at boiling heat, add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, and use Liquor ac- cording to shade. Any shade of Yellow, from the lightest to the darkest, may be dyed from Turmeric, though it is very fugitive. Some dyers pass it through a little Soda afterwards. It has a tendency to soften the silk and raise the color. 52 SILK DYEING. No. 8. ORANGE COLOR. In a tub of boiling Soap Lather, add Annotta, ac- cording to shade, and turn the Silk on sharply ; when up to the pattern pass through cold water so that you may wring out ; wash twice through cold water, and wring up. The Annotta Liquor for this color must be very strong. To make the liquor, add 2 lbs. of Annotta to 1 gallon of boiling Ash Liquor, to be well boiled, so that every particle may be dis- solved, and only use the clear liquor. All the various shades of Orange color may be dyed by adding more or less Annotta. No. 9. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— GRAIN CRIMSON. In a tub of warm water, at 110°, add 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin (or Aqua Fortis killed with Tin), turn the Silk in this Liquor from two to three hours, then wring it out, and stick it up again for the Cochineal. Scald 3J lbs. of Cochineal with boiling water, that is, about 8 J ozs. of Cochineal to each pound of Silk, put it into a bag, and fill a tub with boiling water, and let it be poured through the bag into the tub, so as to get all the strength out of the Cochineal. Then enter the Silk, give a few turns, and steep in the Liquor all night. In the morning, wring it out, and part the skeins for blueing, if not blue enough. Get a tub of clean water, and put a few gallons of the Cochineal Liquor into it, which will prevent the Silk from having a black appearance, to which it is subject, and blue in it ; the more cold water it has, the bluer it will appear. This mode of dyeing Crimsons is the best that can be produced, and if there were no other receipt in this book, this is worth the price of it. SILK DYEING. No. 10. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— GRAIN SCARLET. Stuff or dye in a Soap Latber with Annotta, boil- ing hot, until you have a good full Orange bottom, about the same as No. 8. Wash well out of the An- notta, and then dye same as Crimson, see No. 9, only add less Cochineal ; if a moderate shade is required, about 2} ozs. to the pound, but if a full shade is wanted, 3J ozs. to the pound. No. 11. SKY BLUES FROM EXTRACT. In the first place, dissolve the quantity of Extract required in warm water, and then put in a quantity of wool, which will take up or absorb the Extract ; afterwards put the wool into another vessel, and add a little Pearlashes to discharge the Extract from the wool again, and put the Silk on the same liquor. By this means the color will be much brighter than if the Extract was put upon the Silk without being put upon the wool. It must then be washed off in a little warm water with a little Oil of Vitriol . If the color is not sufficiently bloomy, pass it through a little liquid Archil in warm water. This will put a bright bloomy appearance upon it. When the color is not required to be very bright, the Extract may be put upon the Silk with a little Alum, at about 100 °. No. 12. SKY BLUES FROM PRUSSIATE. In a tub of cold water add Nitrate of Iron until it stands at about 1° Twaddell ; give the silk a few turns, then pass it through weak Ammonia Liquor, say about a pint to 30 gallons. In another tub add Prussiate Liquor according to shade required ; one ounce to the pound will make a fine light Blue; if a darker shade is required, more Prussiate must be 5 * 54 SILK DYEING. added. After giving a few turns lift up and add about a Noggin of Oil of Vitriol, put down again and give a few more turns, and wash off. No. 13 A. 10 lbs. OF BLUE.— MAZARINE BLUE. In a copper or tub at boil, add 6 lbs. of Liquid Archil ; give a few turns and then pass through the Indigo vat. Either the Copperas or Woad vat will answer, but the W oad vat is preferable. No. 18 B. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FRENCH BLUE Give 6 turns in a tub of cold water with Nitrate of Iron at 6° Twaddell, then steep the silk in the same liquor for about 40 minutes, wring out and wash well; then give 12 turns in common Soda water, say 1 lb. of it in 24 gallons of water at 120° ; wring out, and, without washing, enter the Prussiate, 1J lb. in 30 gallons of water, to which add 1 quart of Spirits of Salts (Muriatic Acid), and give 10 turns ; then lift up and add 1 quart more Salts, give 10 turns more and wash out. In this state the silk will ap- pear a very dull color; it must then be passed through weak Ammonia Liquor. To 30 gallons of water at 20° add 1 gill of Ammonia, give 6 turns, then dry it sharply. By passing it through this it will be raised to a very dark bloomy Blue, something like the Mazarine. No. 14. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— ROYAL BLUE. Make up a tub of Nitrate of Iron at 6°, to which add 1 pint of good Muriate of Tin and 4 ozs. of Tar- taric Acid; turn it in this for about 1 hour. In another tub add 1| lb. of dissolved Prussiate and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, wash out of the Iron tub and enter the Prussiate tub, repeat in the Iron twice and SILK DYEING. once in Prussiate, wash out of the Iron. In another tub add a little Oil of Vitriol until it tastes sour ; give 6 turns in this to clear off any rust that may adhere to it. More Prussiate will produce a darker color, and less a lighter, but the same quantity of Iron and Tin must be used. No. 15. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— BLUE BLACK. Steep in Nitrate of Iron at 4°, for about 1 hour ; wring out and wash it. Make up a tub at about 120°, add the clear Liquor from Logwood previously scalded, about the same weight as the silk, and a pailful of melted Soap to keep up a lather ; give 12 turns ; if not dark enough add a-little more Logwood. No. 16. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— COMMON FULL BLACK. Steep in Nitrate of Iron at 4° for about one hour ; after giving the Silk a few turns, wring out and wash well in a tub of warm water at about 120° ; add 15 lbs. of Logwood, scalded, and add only the clear liquor and 5 lbs. of scalded Fustic, and a little melted Soap. If the color is not flat enough, add a little more Fustic Liquor, and if not dark enough,, add more Logwood. No. 17. BROWNS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. For a good light Brown, stuff with Annotta liquor in a Soap lather up to a good orange in boiling water ; after this wash well and sadden in a weak Copperas liquor, cold ; let the Copperas liquor be very clear ; then wash off and dye with Fustic and Archil. All the light shades of Browns may be dyed after this manner. When a rather darker shade is required, sadden rather stronger. The yellowness of the color 56 SILK DYEING. must be regulated with tbe Fustic, and the redness with the Archil, according to the shade required. No. 18. DARK BROWNS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. Stuff with Annotta in boiling water until you ob- tain a full Orange. Sadden with stronger Copperas Liquor, and then dye with Fustic, Archil, and Log- wood. Any shade required in Browns may be dyed after this manner, but it is impossible to point out every tinge and hue, as in Browns they are so varied. The Fustic produces the Yellow part of the color, the Archil the Red part, and the Logwood the darkness, or the Blue part, after the Copperas or saddening. No. 19. CALIFORNIA BROWNS AND OLIYE. Another* mode of dyeing Browns. Put on a strong Annotta bottom, as in the other Browns, at boiling point, and wash well out of it ; then scald Fustic, and add the clear Liquor according to shade, and a little Sumac Liquor along with it. Then sadden in cold water with a little Argol and Cop- peras Liquor, and when the shade is wanted of a very Olive cast, add a little Turmeric with the Fustic. All the bright colors in Snuff Brown, California colors, and light Olive, are dyed according to this receipt. The darkness of the color must be regu- lated by the Sumac and Copperas. No. 20. RED OR CLARET BROWN. This class of colors is dyed with Annotta bottoms, as before, and then passed through the Plum vat. They are perhaps the richest Browns that can be produced, and are dyed better by this means than by any other. But for the information of those who SILK DYEING. 57 are desirous of understanding the different modes of dyeing the same color by different ingredients, and in different modes, I will next insert another mode of dyeing the Red Browns. No. 21. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEINO RED BROWNS. First steep the Silk in Alum, at about 6° T wad- dell, for about one hour, then wash it well in cold water ; scald Logwood, Peach wood, and Fustic sepa- rately, and use the clear Liquor. The Logwood must be used very sparingly, as it will darken very fast. The Peachwood must be the strongest, and Fustic in a moderate way, as 6 parts of Peachwood, 4 parts of Fustic, 1 part of Logwood, using quantity according to shade required, at about 140°. From the lightest to the darkest shades may be dyed after this manner. These Browns are dyed sooner and cheaper than the saddened Browns, bat are not so permanent. No. 22. SOUR BROWNS. Almost any shade of Brown may be dyed in the following manner, and by varying the ingredients according to shade required : Dye with Camwood, Chemic, and Acid. No. 23. LIGHT CLARET BROWN. Dye with 2 lbs. of Camwood ; to each pound of Silk add Oil of Vitriol and a little Red Argol for the sour ; boil one hour in a clean copper, and then sadden with a little Chemic. No. 24. DARK CLARET BROWNS. Stuff with 3 lbs. of Camwood to each lb. of Silk, add a little Argol and Oil of Vitriol for the Acid, 58 SILK DYEING. boil an hour and a half, and wash it well out of this liquor, and sadden in cold water with Copperas liquor. The Camwood must be boiled in bags. No. 25. CLARETS AND CHOCOLATES. Steep in Alum, at 6° Twaddell, for about one hour, wash well out, and then dye with Peachwood and Logwood, according to shade ; if a Claret, use very little Logwood, and if a Chocolate, use a little more, but most Peachwood, in all cases. Dye at about 160°. All the various shades of Claret and Chocolate may be dyed by adding more or less of the two ingredients, Peachwood and Logwood. No. 26. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING CLARETS AND CHOCOLATES. Boil with Alum and Peachwood together, and then finish in another vessel with Logwood, according to the darkness required. The body of color in this mode of dyeing is put on in the boiling, and the Logwood is used to blue and darken the same. No. 27. MOCK CRIMSONS, DYED DIFFERENT WAYS. These colors are dyed by first boiling in Alum, and are then finished with Peachwood Liquor and a little Muriate of Tin, at boiling point. Another mode is by steeping the Silk in Alum for a few hours, and then dyeing at the boiling point with Peachwood only. But the best and readiest mode is by dyeing it off at once with Peachwood Liquor and Muriate of Tin, as either light or dark shades may be dyed by adding Peachwood according to shade required. These are all different from the Crimson Vat colors. SILK DYEING. 59 No. 28. OLIVE. In the first place, sadden the Silk with Copperas Liquor, wash out, and dye with Fustic, moderately strong, at boiling heat. Darken with Logwood, blue with Chemic, and when to pattern, wash off in cold water, with a little Oil of Vitriol to preserve the Chemic. Lighter and darker shades may be dyed by varying the quantity of Logwood. No. 29. PUKPLES. A variety of Purples may be dyed by first steep- ing the Silk in Alum, and afterwards dyeing with Logwood and Oxalic Acid. No. 80. MAROONS. Various shades of Maroons may be dyed with Lima Peachwood, Muriate of Tin, and Alum, at boiling point. No. 31. MAROONS, ANOTHER WAY. Dye with Cudbear, at boiling heat, and add a little Young Fustic and Muriate of Tin. Any shade of Maroon may be dyed by adding or diminishing the Cudbear, according to the shade required. No. 32. RUBY. The Ruby is dyed from Cudbear alone ; it will produce a fine color of itself. When a Blue shade is required, add a little Ammonia, and when a Red shade is required, add a little Muriate of Tin. No. 33. DAUNCE BLACK. Give 10 turns in Nitrate of Iron at 4°, then fill up with Prussiate, about 2 ozs. to the pound, repeat twice, wash out of the Iron, and sadden with Cop- 60 SILK DYEING. peras. If a darker shade is required, pass through a little Logwood. This color is dyed with a Blue bottom, so that it may not be discharged or spotted with Acid as Blacks are generally subject to be. No. 34. YIOLET. A variety of shades of this color may be dyed by first steeping the Silk in Alum, and then dyeing with a little Cudbear and Logwood, according to shade. If a very Blue shade is required, add a little Ammonia, and if a Red shade is required, add a little Alum with the Cudbear. Clean cold water will blue this class of colors. The Yiolets are not all dyed in this manner : some are dyed in a Plum Yat. No. 35. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LIGHT GREEN. In a tub of cold water, add 6 lbs. of dissolved Alum, give the Silk a few turns, steep it in the same Liquor all night, and wash it out next morning. Boil up 10 lbs. of Chipped Ebony Wood, put the clear Liquor into another tub of water at 100°, give 6 turns, lift up, and add about 1 gill of Extract of Indigo, or more, according to shade required. No. 36. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— MIDDLE GREEN. Steep in Alum for about twelve hours, same as No. 36 ; wash out of the Alum, boil up 20 lbs. of Fustic, and use the clear Liquor, at about 120°; give 10 turns, then lift up, and add Extract accord- ing to shade required. If a Yellower shade is re- quired, add more Fustic, or a little Turmeric Liquor. No. 37. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— DARK GREEN. Steep the Silk same as in the last Receipt, and dye in a tub of water, at about 120°, with Fustic or Turmeric Liquor, and Extract according to shade. SILK DYEING. 61 No. 38. BOTTLE GREEN. The Bottle Green and Dark Olive shades are dyed in all respects the same as the foregoing Greens, but must be passed through Copperas Liquor, and then in another tub of lukewarm water add a little Log- wood Liquor. No. 39. OTHER GREENS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. In a tub of water, at 140°, add about 4 lbs. of Alum and Fustic Liquor, Extract, and Chemic ac- cording to shade. Dye off in this, and when accord- ing to pattern, wash in cold water, to which add a little Oil of Vitriol to keep the Blue on the Silk. By this mode of dyeing Greens, all the various shades may be got, and any tinge or hue, by adding Fustic or Turmeric Liquor according to tint required. It is a readier mode of dyeing the Greens, and equally as good. No. 40. FAST GREENS WITH A BLUE BOTTOM. First pass the silk through the Copperas vat, and put on the body of blue required for the shade ; then dye at boiling heat with Fustic, according to shade required, with a little Alum for the sour to work on the Fustic. When an Olive shade is required, add a little Turmeric. All shades of middle and dark Green may be dyed after this receipt, and the colors dyed in this way are not so soon stained as the other ; they are also more durable by having a vat bottom. No. 41. LIGHT OLIVES, OF DIFFERENT SHADES. This class of colors is the best with a light Blue bottom, and dyed off, at the boiling point, with Tur- 6 62 SILK DYEING. meric Liquor and a little Archil. When the Green shade is required, add a little Turmeric only, and when a Bedder shade is required, add a little Archil also. Some of the finest colors may be produced after this manner. The bright Acanthuses, Ottoman Leaves, and bronzes are dyed in this way. No. 42. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FLESH COLOB OB BUFF. Make up a tub, at boiling point, with a little White Soap, 4 ozs. of Pearlash, and 2 quarts of Annotta Liquor ; enter the Silk, and turn on until it be dyed to pattern. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Annotta Liquor. No. 43. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— SALMON. This color is dyed the same as flesh color, but must be passed through a little Muriate of Tin in a tub of warm water afterwards, in order to raise the Bedness of the color. No. 44. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— GOLD COLOB. Dye at boiling heat in a Soap lather, with Annotta according to shade required. If a full shade is re- quired a full shade of Annotta color must be put upon the Silk, and if lighter shades are required, a lighter bottom must be put on. After which, boil up 4 lbs. of Bark with 1 quart of Muriate of Tin ; the Bark must be put into a bag. Cool the vessel down a little, enter the Silk, and turn it for about twenty minutes. If it is not Yellow enough, take out the Silk and put it in the bag with 1 pint more of Tin Spirits ; boil in a little and then enter the Silk again. SILK DYEING. 63 No. 45. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— YELLOW FAWN DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 quart of Annotta Liquor, 1 lb. to a gallon of water, and 8 ozs. of Pear lash ; to this add 2 lbs. of scalded Fustic and 8 ozs. of Sumac ; enter, give ten turns, lift up, and throw out a few pailfuls of the Liquor; dissolve 8 ozs. of Argol and 2 lbs. of Copperas in 1 gallon of water ; add 1 quart of this to the liquor, and if not flat enough add more of it. No. 46. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FAWN DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 pint of Annotta Liquor, 1 lb. of Sumac, and 1 lb. of Fustic ; and sadden down with Copperas Liquor according to shade. No. 47. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FLAT DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 gill of Annotta, 1 lb. of Fustic, 1J lb. of Sumac, and sadden in an- other tub of cold water with Copperas Liquor, ac- cording to the shade of deadness required. No. 48. HEAVY DRABS. Dye in a killed Liquor, at about 100°, with a little Fustic Liquor, a little Archil, and a little Chemic. Any shade of Drabs of a heavy, flat, or dark ap- pearance may be dyed in this way, from these ingre- dients. The Liquor is said to be killed, when a quantity of Copperas Liquor is poured into it. For these shades it requires about J a noggin to 10 lbs. of Silk. No. 49. SLATE DRAB. Dye in killed Liquor with a little Fustic Liquor, add a little Logwood Liquor ; if not Blue enough, add a little Chemie. 64 SILK DYEING. No. 50. 10 lbs. OF SILK. -BRONZE DRAB. In a tub of warm water, at 100°, add 1 lb. of Fustic and 6 ozs. of Archil, and then sadden with Copperas Liquor. These shades of Drab are all very distinct, the last three especially. Perhaps there is as much difference in the shades as is possible to be made in Drabs ; but all the varieties of shades that come be- tween these, may be dyed according. to the preceding Receipts, which is the way that most Drabs are dyed. I will now give a few Receipts of another mode of dyeing Fawns by means of Acid instead of a killed Liquor. Almost all Silk requires to be passed through a mode of softening, as it is called by Silk Dyers. It is made as follows : Add 2 lbs. of Sweet Oil to 1 lb. of Sulphuric Acid (Oil of Yitriol), and stir it quickly when mixing. This will form a sort of paste, which will mix with water, not floating on the top like Oil. A little of this must be added to a tub of cold water, and the Silk passed through it, which will give it a very smooth finish, and cause it to spin much better than it otherwise would. No. 51. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING DRABS. A great variety of Drabs may be dyed, at boiling heat, with a little Oil of Yitriol for the sour, and a little Argol. Many of the Fawn shades would re- quire only a little liquid Archil and Madder Liquor, less or more, according to shade. Some of the brightest colors of light Fawns may be dyed in this manner ; and by adding a little Chemic to flatten or sadden with, a still greater variety may be dyed. The colors dyed in this manner are firmer and less liable to stain than those dyed in a killed Liquor. SILK DYEING. 65 No. 52. SOUR BROWNS. A great variety of Browns may be dyed with acid, using Camwood for the red part of the color, Tur- meric for the Yellow part, and then sadden with Copperas in another vessel, cold. After a good body of Camwood is got upon the Silk it may be saddened down to either a light or a dark shade. No. 53. FRENCH WHITE. This color is first bleached, and then dyed with Archil and Chemic. Make up a tub at about 160°, to which add a little liquid Archil, and either a little Chemic or Extract, with a pailful of Soap Lather. This will put down the Yellowness of Color, and raise it to a fine clear white. Be careful not to add too much of either Archil or Chemic, as it requires very little. Another mode of dyeing a White is by strov- ing it with Sulphur. No. 54. PINKS FROM SAFFLOWER. The Safflower for Light Pinks is first put upon cotton, and then discharged from the cotton, and then put upon the silk, in the following manner : the saf- flower is spent with Pearlashes in the usual way, and the Liquor put into a vessel with water, and then a quantity of either Cotton Yarns or Cotton Wool steeped in the Liquor so as to take up the strength of it. The Cotton must then be put into another vessel of clean water, with a portion of Pearlashes, which will discharge the strength of the Safflower from the cotton, and clear it from all dirt. The Silk must then be dyed in the same Liquor with a little Oil of Yitriol. The whole of this process must be cold. By this means the color will be clear and bright. 6 * 66 SILK DYEING. No. 55. PINKS FROM PEACHWOOD. » This color may be dyed either by being passed through the Crimson Yat, or by first steeping the Silk in Alum, and then dyeing it with Peachwood, at boiling heat ; by using a little Muriate of Tin the color will be much brighter. No. 56. GRAIN PINKS. This class of Pinks may be dyed in various ways. One manner is, first pass the Silk through Red Liquor, and then dye, at boiling heat, with the clear Liquor from scalded Cochineal. Another mode is, first steep it in Alum, and dye same as when passed through Red Liquor. And another mode is by dyeing it the same as dyeing Grain Crimson, only using much less Cochineal. No. 57. MOCK SCARLET. Get a good Annotta bottom on, the same as for the other Scarlet, until it appears a good Orange, then wash, and spend about 4 or 5 lbs. of Peachwood to 10 lbs. of Silk : add the clear Liquor to a tub of hot water, give 10 turns, and then pass through the Crimson Yat. Another mode is to dye it, at boiling heat, with Peachwood Liquor and Muriate of Tin ; after the Annotta, Orange is put on it as in the other mode. No. 58. REAL PARIS BLACKS. In a tub of water, at 180°, made up with 8 parts of Fustic, and 1 part of Bark Liquor, add 2 ozs. of Yerdigris, and 1 oz. of Copperas to every pound of Silk. Steep the Silk in this all night, after giving it a few turns. In the morning, wring out, and wash well twice over. Then make the Silk up for dyeing SILK DYEING. 67 in a Logwood Liquor, at 150°. This must be dyed in a Soap Lather. If the shade required be a dark one, much Logwood must be used ; if it has a Green appearance, use more Logwood, and when dark enough wash twice over. Then stick up the Silk for softening in warm water. The softening must be a little Soda and Neatsfoot Oil. This is the best Black that can be dyed. No. 59. NAPOLEON BLUE, AND HOW TO MAKE THE SPIRITS FOR THE SAME. Into a tub put 100 lbs. of Spirits of Salts (Muri- atic Acid), to which add 7 lbs. of Feathered Tin ; put the Jar into boiling water, and keep up the heat until the tin be all eaten away. Into another jar about the same size put the same quantity of Spirits of Salts, to which add Iron filings until it will eat no more (it will be continually eating for two or three days, and will require to be kept warm all the time), and after settling, it will be ready for use. This is the real Muriate of Iron, the former the real Muriate of Tin. Some prefer Nitrate of Iron to Muriate of Iron, which may be made as follows : Into a jar of about the same size put about the same quantity of Aquafortis (Nitric Acid), at about 20° Twaddell, to which add Iron filings as in the other Spirits, until it will eat no more; add only a little of it at once, as it is subject to boil over when too much is added at a time ; it will not require heat as the other Spirit. These are the Spirits to be used in proportion as follows : Into a half-pipe tub of cold water, add 2 quarts of Muriate of Tin, and the same quantity of Muriate or Nitrate of Iron, and 1 lb. of Tartaric Acid. This is the Mordant for the Silk. In another tub of the same size, add 6 lbs. of Alum, previously dissolved. Then add 2 ozs. of the Red Prussiate of 08 SILK DYEING. Potash to every lb. of Silk to be dyed. In this give the Silk 10 turns ; the Liquor must be at about 100° then slightly wash, enter the Mordant tub, give 10 turns, wring out, wash it again and repeat in each until you get the shade required. It may require 5 or 6 rounds, or more, according to the darkness of the color. This will dye a good color ; if a Bluer shade is required, add more of the Nitrate or Muri- ate of Iron, and less of Muriate of Tin ; and if a Redder shade is required, add more of the Muriate of Tin, and less of the Nitrate or Muriate of Iron for the Mordant. The Yellow Prussiate of Potash will pro- duce nearly the same shade of color, with the same weight of it as of the Red. The Silk must pass through the Mordant the last, and not through the Prussiate; after which it must be washed out and put to soak in Fuller’s earth for a few hours; then wash it out of the earth, and pass it through the Mordant again with about 10 turns more ; then wring it out, not wash it, ready for getting up. In another tub of cold water add a little Tartaric Acid, sufficient to keep the color ; to a spoonful of the best Oil, add the least drop of Oil of Vitriol, put this into the tub, and give the Silk a few turns, and then wring it out. If the Silk does not appear dark enough, dry it hot, but if dark enough, dry it cool. This is for the first day’s work, the second will not require so many dye-wares. For the next day’s work, only add about one half of the Spirits of each kind, and for the Mordant, much of the strength of the other will be left in the tub. Take the clear liquor from the Prussiate tub and throw down the sediment, and add only Ifoz. of Prussiate to the pound of Silk in the place of 2 ozs. ; heat up 100° and add about the same quantity of Alum as before, and dye in all respects the same as the previous day. WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. No. 1. 20 BUNCHES 44s.— PEA GKEEN, YEKY FINE SHADE. Dye at boiling beat with 2 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Wold — 8 ozs. of Liquid Extract — 1 lb. of Brown Tartar — and 1 gill of Spirits. Flatter Greens about the same shades may be dyed without Spirit and Wolds, by using Fustic in the place of both; but the color will not be anything like the same in point of brightness. No. 2. 6 GROSS OF 30s.— SILVER DRAB. Dye with 4 ozs. of Logwood — 1 oz. of Cudbear — • and 4 ozs. of Alum. No. 3. 16 BUNCHES 36s.— CALIFORNIA COLOR. Dye with 5 lbs. of Crop Madder — 2 lbs. of Cam- wood — 2 lbs. of Fustic — 2 ozs. of Alum — 1 lb. of Copperas. No. 4. 24 BUNCHES.— BRIGHT VICUNA. Dye with 5 lbs. of Crop Madder — 2 lbs. of Fustic — 2 ozs. of Alum — and 2 ozs. of Copperas. No. 5. 10 BUNCHES.— LIGHT FIERY BROWN. Dye with 6 lbs. of Fustic — 2 \ lbs. of Camwood — 3 lbs. of Madder — 8 ozs. of Copperas. 69 70 WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. No. 6. 6 GROSS 82s.— MIDDLE OLIVE. Dye with 16 lbs. of Camwood — 12 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. of Mull Madder — 12 ozs. of Copperas. No. 7. 5 GROSS 32s.— RED LAVENDER. Dye with 2J lbs. of Logwood — 8 ozs. of Cudbear — and 2 ozs. of Alum. No. 8. 6 GROSS 30s.— RED DRAB. Dye with 1 lb. of Logwood — 4 ozs. of Cudbear — and 4 ozs. of Alum. No. 9. 12 BUNCHES.— RUBY. Dye with 2J lbs. of Cudbear — If a Blue shade is required, add 1 gill of Ammonia, and if a Red shade, add 1 tot of Spirits. No. 10. 24 BUNCHES.— WINE COLOR. Boil it 20 minutes with four ozs. of Chrome, and finish it in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Cudbear, and 4 ozs. of Logwood. This boiling with Chrome is called Chroming. No. 11. 24 BUNCHES.— FINE CLARET. Chrome same as No. 10 — Finish with 2 lbs. of Cudbear — 6 lbs. of Lima Peachwood. No. 12. 6 GROSS 32s.— YELLOW BROWN. Dye with 10 lbs. of Camwood — 10 lbs. of Fustic. 8 lbs. of Madder — 8 ozs. of Copperas. No. 13. 24 BUNCHES, SPUN TO 18 OUNCES— MIDDLE GREEN. Dye to middle shade of Blue in the Vat, and fill up with 6 lbs. of Fustic — 2 lbs. of Alum — 1 tot of Chemic. WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. 71 No. 14. 6 GROSS 32s.— GOOD BROWN. Dye with 20 Jbs. of Camwood — 10 lbs. of Mad- der — 10 lbs. of Fustic — 2 lbs. of Copperas. No. 15. 5 GROSS 32s.— DARK PURPLE. Boil with 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — Fill up with 13 lbs. of Logwood — To dye the shade another way — Chrome the same as No. 10 — Finish with 2 lbs. of Cudbear — 1 lbs. of Logwood. No. 16. 20 BUNCHES.— SEA GREEN. Dye with 1 lb. of Alum — 6 lbs. Fustic — 1 gill of Extract. No. 17. 24 BUNCHES.— DARK BROWN. Dye with 6 lbs of Camwood — 12 ozs. of Crop Madder — 1 lb. of Mull Madder — 1 lb. of Fustic — - 4 ozs. of Logwood — and 2 ozs. of Copperas. No. 18. 4 GROSS 32s.— DARK DRAB. Dye with 1 lb. of Fustic — 8 ozs. of Logwood — - 8 ozs. of Madder — 4 ozs. of Camwood — And 3 ozs. of Copperas. No. 19. 20 BUNCHES 36s.— MAROON. Dye with 4 lbs. of Cudbear — And 1 lb. of Cam- wood. No. 20. 20 BUNCHES 36s.— SCARLET. Dye with 1 lb. of Tartar — 10 ozs. of Young Fus- tic — 12 ozs. of Cochineal — 1 pint of Spirits. No. 21. 20 BUNCHES 44s.— CINNAMON BROWN. Dye with 5 lbs. of Crop Madder — 3 lbs. of Cam- wood — 2 lbs. of Fustic — 2 ozs. of Alum — And 1 oz. of Copperas. 72 WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. No. 22. 20 BUNCHES.— GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye with 1 lb. of Cochineal — 1 lb. of Tartar — 1 pint of Spirits. No. 23. 20 BUNCHES.— FULL PINK. Dye with 4 ozs. of Cochineal — 1 pint of Spirits — - 1 lb. of Tartar. No. 24. 20 BUNCHES.— SALMON COLOR. Dye with 2 ozs. of Young Fustic — 1 lb. of Tartar — 4 ozs. of Cochineal — 1 pint of Spirits. No. 25. 20 BUNCHES.— FULL GRAIN ROSE. Dye with 8 ozs. of Cochineal — 1 lb. of Tartar — 1 pint of Spirits. No. 26. 20 BUNCHES.— LIGHT BUFF. Dye with 1 lb. of Tartar — J oz. of Cochineal — 4 ozs. of Fustic — 1 pint of Spirits. Darker shades may be dyed by adding more Cochineal, according to the shade required. No. 27. 20 BUNCHES.— LIGHT YELLOW. Dye with 1 lb. of Alum — 1 lb. of Tartar — 2 lbs. of Bark — 2 lbs. of Young Fustic — 3 gills of Spirits. Fuller shades of Yellow are dyed by adding more Fustic. No. 28. 20 BUNCHES.— ORANGE. Dye with 1 lb. of Tartar — 8 ozs. of Cochineal — 1 pint of Spirits. No. 29. 20 BUNCHES.— BOTTLE GREEN. After getting a good Blue bottom in the Yat, dye with 1 lb. of Tartar — 2 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Fustic — 1 gill of Chemic. WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. 73 No. 30. 20 BUNCHES.— INVISIBLE GREEN. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 4 lbs. of Logwood — 8 lbs. of Fustic — 2 ozs. of Red Argol. If a Yellower shade is required, add more Fustic, and if darker, more Logwood. No. 31. 20 BUNCHES.— DARK BLUE. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 5 lbs. of Logwood, and if not Red enough, add a handful of Cudbear. No. 32. 20 BUNCHES.— BLUE BLACK. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 10 lbs. of Logwood. No. 33. 20 BUNCHES.— FULL BLACK. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 15 lbs. of Logwood, and 4 lbs. of Fustic. No. 34. 20 BUNCHES.— ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 2 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash — 2 quarts of Blue Spirits. To be entered cold, and heated up as quickly as possible ; when boiled 15 minutes, get out and add 1 quart of finishing Spirits. Enter again, and boil 15 minutes more. If a dark shade is re- quired, add a little Logwood with the finishing Spirits. No. 35. 20 BUNCHES.— APPLE GREEN. Dye with 8 ozs. of Logwood — 4 lbs. of Fustic — 2 ozs. of Alum, and 2 ozs. of Copperas. No. 36. 20 BUNCHES.— LIGHT OLIVE. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 4 lbs. of Fustic — 1 lb. of Logwood — 4 ozs. of Alum. 74 WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. No. 37. 20 BUNCHES.— DARK OLIYE. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 4 lbs. of Logwood — 6 lbs. of Fustic — 4 ozs. of Alum. No. 88. 20 BUNCHES.— BBOWN OLIYE. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 4 lbs of Logwood — 6 lbs. of Fustic — 2 lbs. of Camwood, or a little Cudbear — 4 ozs. of Alum. No. 39. 20 BUNCHES.— FAWN DRAB. Dye with 1 lb. of Red Argol — 1 lb. Fustic — 8 ozs. of Cudbear — \ oz. Chemic. No. 40. 10 BUNCHES.— DOYE COLOR. Dye with 10 ozs. of Brown Tartar — 2 spoonfuls of Chemic — 2 ozs. of Cudbear. No. 41. 10 BUNCHES.— BLUE LAYENDER. This shade is dyed with Acid, and not the same as the Red Lavender, No. 7. Dye with 1 lb. of Tartar — 2 ozs. of Paste Cudbear — 4 ozs. of Chemic. No. 42. 10 BUNCHES.— SKY BLUE. Dye with 1 gill of Yitriol — 1 lb. of Red Argol — 1 tot of Liquid Extract. No. 43. 10 BUNCHES.— SAXON BLUE. Dye with 1 gill of Oil of Yitriol — 1 lb. of Argol — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. No. 44. 20 BUNCHES.— SAGE DRAB. Dye with 2 lbs. of Argol — 1 lb. of Old Fustic — 1 oz. of Chemic — 1 handful of Cudbear. No. 45. 20 BUNCHES CHROMED GREEN. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 4 lbs. of Logwood and 6 lbs. of Fustic. WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. 75 No. 46. DARK CHROMED GREEN. Chrome same as No. 10, and finish with 6 lbs. of Logwood and 10 lbs. of Fustic. These Greens will much resemble the Greens dyed with Blue bottoms, but are not so permanent. No. 47. 20 BUNCHES.— LIGHT AND DARK CLARET. Boil with 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — Finish with 8 lbs. of Peach wood — 1 lb. of Logwood. If darker shades are required, add more Logwood. ' No. 48. MOCK CRIMSON. Boil with 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol. After boiling an hour, wash well, and finish in a clear ves- sel with 10 lbs. of Peach wood — 1 gill of Spirits — 2 pails of Urine. Without the Urine it will be a Mock Maroon. No. 49. 12 BUNCHES.— GRAIN EAROON. Dye with 1 pint of Spirits — 1J lb. of Cochineal — 1 lb. of Tartar. Wash, and in another vessel give it 1 lb. of Cudbear, and wash off. No. 50. 80 BUNCHES.— DARK CHOCOLATE. Dye with 35 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 15 lbs. of Fustic — 4 lbs. of Logwood — 4 lbs. of Copperas. No. 51. 80 BUNCHES.— HE AYY BROWN. Dye with 20 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 24 lbs. of Fus- tic — 5 lbs. of Logwood — 4 lbs. of Copperas. No. 52. 80 BUNCHES.— DARK CLARET BROWN. Dye with 24 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 4 lbs. of Fus- tic — 8 lbs. of Logwood — 4 lbs of Copperas.. 76 WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. No. 53. 80 BUNCHES. — DARKER CLARET BROWN. Dye with 36 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 8 lbs. of Fus- tic — 10 lbs. of Logwood — 6 lbs. of Copperas. No. 54. 100 BUNCHES.— FULL RED BROWN. Dye with 34 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 15 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Logwood — 1 lb. Red Argol — 6 lbs. of Copperas. No. 55. 50 BUNCHES.— FULL YELLOW BROWN. Dye with 10 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 24 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Logwood — 5 lbs. of Copperas. No. 56. DARKER YELLOW BROWN. 20 lbs. of Sanders Wood — 40 lbs. of Fustic — 6 lbs. of Logwood — 6 lbs. of Copperas. No. 57. 50 BUNCHES.— DARK OLIYE. Dye with 36 lbs. of Fustic — 8 lbs. of Logwood — - 2 lbs. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Copperas. No. 58. 50 BUNCHES.— DARKER SHADE OF OLIYE. 40 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. of Logwood — 2 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — 4 lbs. of Copperas. No. 59. 80 BUNCHES.— YERY DARK CLARET. 35 lbs. of Sanders W ood — 20 lbs. of Logwood — 6 lbs. of Copperas — 2 pails of Urine in the sadden- ing. It is to be understood that where Copperas is used in these Yarns it is for the saddening. WORSTED YARN DYEING. No. 1. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SLATE PURPLE. Previous to Dyeing, the Yarns must be well scoured with Soap and hot Water, at 80°. Then boil twenty minutes with 2 lbs. of Chrome, then wash and finish with 10 lbs. of Logwood, 1 lb. of Cudbear, and boil half an hour, then clean and dry off. No. 2. 80 lbs. OF YARN. — FED PURPLE. Prepare same as No. 1, and finish with 10 lbs. of Logwood, and 6 lbs. of Cudbear ; boil twenty minutes in the finishing. No. 8. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— FULL RED PURPLE. Prepare same as No. 1, and finish with 10 lbs. of Logwood, and 10 lbs. of Cudbear; boil twenty minutes. No. 4. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— ROYAL BLUE. 6 lbs. of Prussiate, 6 quarts of Blue Spirits, enter cold, and heat up to boiling quickly, and turn them over sharply ; after boiling twenty minutes, get out, and add 3 quarts of finishing Spirits. Enter again and boil a quarter of an hour ; get out again, add 3 gills more of finishing Spirits, and 2 lbs. of Logwood. Enter again, and turn them a quarter of an hour very quickly. For darker shades, add more Log- vood, and for lighter, less Logwood, 7* 77 78 WORSTED YARN DYEING. No. 5. 80 lbs. OF YAEN. — GEEEN MAEOON. Boil forty minutes with 8 lbs. of Tartar, 8 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 5 lbs. of Cochineal, then wash in clean water, and finish in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Cudbear, and boil a quarter of an hour. No. 6. 80 lbs. OF YAEN.— MOCK CEIMSON. Boil one hour with 30 lbs. of Alum and 8 lbs. of Argol, then wash well in clean water, and finish in a clean vessel with 30 lbs. of Peachwood, 1 pint of Nitrate of Tin, and 4 quarts of Ammonia. No. 7. 80 lbs. OF YAEN.— CLAEET. Boil same as No. 6, and finish with 4 lbs. of Log- wood, 30 lbs. of Peachwood. No. 8. 80 lbs. OF YAEN.— LIGHT VICUNA. Boil half an hour with 3 lbs. of Argol — 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol — 1 lb. of Cudbear — 5 lbs. of Fustic. No. 9. 80 lbs. OF YAEN.— DAEK VICUNA. Boil 1 hour with 4 lbs. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 2 lbs. of Cudbear — 7 lbs. of Fustic — 7 lbs. of Madder. No. 10. 80 lbs. OF YAEN.— OAK DEAB. Coil half an hour with 3 lbs. of Argol — 3 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 20 lbs. of Fustic — a handful of Cud- bear. No. 11. 80 lbs. OF YAEN.— BOTTLE GEEEN. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Eed Argol, 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol, 30 lbs. of Fustic, 4 quarts of Chemic, and 1 lb. of Cudbear. Most shades of dark Green may be dyed as well with Chrome, which would be a saving of two -thirds of the expense. WORSTED YARN DYEING. 79 No. 12. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— APPLE GREEN. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Argol — 8 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 30 lbs. of Fustic — } of a pint of Liquid Extract. No. 13. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— KNOT GREEN. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 8 lbs. of Alum — 30 lbs. of Fustic — 1 pint of Liquid Extract. No. 14. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SEA GREEN. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 2 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of Fustic — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. No. 15. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— DARK SEA GREEN. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 4 lbs. of Alum— 10 lbs. of Fustic — 1 quart of Liquid Extract. No. 16. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— MOCK MAROON. Boil twenty minutes with 16 lbs. of Cudbear — 1 quart of Nitrate of Tin. No. 17. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— GREEN OLIVE. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Argol — 3 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 30 lbs. of Fustic — 1 quart of Liquid Extract. No. 18. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— DARK OLIVE. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Argol — 3 lbs of Blue Vitriol — 30 lbs. of Fustic — 2 quarts of Chemic — 1 lb. of Cudbear. No. 19. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— DAHLIA. Boil 20 minutes with 12 lbs. of Cudbear — 1 quart of Ammonia. 80 WORSTED YARN DYEING. No. 20. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— RUBY. Boil twenty minutes with 12 lbs. of Cudbear. No. 21. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— APPLE GREEN. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 3 lbs. of Log- wood — 40 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 20 minutes. No. 22. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— INVISIBLE GREEN. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood — 30 lbs of Fustic. Boil 20 minutes. No. 23. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— BOTTLE GREEN. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 10 lbs. of Logwood — 25 lbs. Fustic. Boil 20 minutes. No. 24. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— BROWN OLIVE. Boil half an hour with 25 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Madder — then get the Yarns out of the vessel, and add 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 2 lbs. of Copperas. Put them in again and turn twenty minutes. No. 25. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— GREEN OLIVE. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 6 lbs. of Log- wood — : 30 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 20 minutes. No. 26. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— CANARY COLOR. Boil half an hour with 5 lbs. of Quercitron Bark - — 4 lbs. of Alum — 2 quarts of Spirits. No. 27. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— FULL YELLOW. Boil half an hour with 30 lbs. of Young Fustic — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 2 quarts of Spirits. No. 28. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— ORANGE. Boil 1 hour with 2 lbs. of Cochineal — 30 lbs. of Young Fustic — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 3 quarts of Spirits. WORSTED YARN DYEING. 81 No. 29. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— GRAIN CRIMSON. Boil 1 hour with 8 lbs. of Paste Cochineal — 1 lb. of dry Cochineal — I lbs. of Tartar — 2 quarts of Spirits. No. 80. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— ROSE. Boil 1 hour with 3 \ lbs. of Paste Cochineal — I lbs. of Tartar — 2 quarts of Spirits. No. 31. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— PINK. Boil half an hour with 2 lbs. Paste Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 2 quarts of Spirits. To Make Cochineal Paste. — Add 3 gills of Strong Ammonia to 1 lb. of Cochineal, and mix it well in a Jar, put the Jar into a Vessel of boiling water, keeping the water out of the Jar, during about 8 hours, or upon a warm Sand Bath during about 12 hours, or upon a boiler. No. 32. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— IMITATION OF INDIGO BLUE. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 20 lbs. of Logwood — 1 Pint of Ammonia. Boil 20 minutes. No. 33. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— LIGHT BROWN. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 30 lbs. of Peachwood — 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 20 minutes. No. 34. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— CLARET BROWN. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 30 lbs. of Peachwood — Boil 20 minutes. No. 35. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SNUFF COLOR. Boil 1 hour with 25 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Madder — 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil half an hour. 82 WORSTED YARN DYEING. No. 36. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— FULL BLACK. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 40 lbs. of Logwood — 15 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 20 minutes. No. 37. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— BLUE BLACK. Prepare same as No. 1 — Finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. No. 38. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— FAWN DRAB. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of White Argol — 2 lbs. of Fustic — 1 handful of Cudbear — 2 spoonfuls of Chemic. No. 39. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— LILAC. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Cudbear — Half a gill of Liquid Extract. No. 40. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— LAVENDER. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear — 1 pint of Liquid Extract. No. 41. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— LIGHT PUCE. Boil 20 minutes with 5 lbs. of Archil. No. 42. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SLATE DRAB. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Fustic — 3 handfuls of Cudbear — 1 gill of Chemic. No. 43. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SAGE DRAB. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Fustic — 2 handfuls of Cudbear — 2 spoonfuls of Chemic. No. 44. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— RED CINNAMON BROWN. Boil two hours with 40 lbs. of Camwood, or Red Sanders. No Saddening. WORSTED YARN DYEING. 83 No. 45. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— DARK BROWN. Boil same as the last — Sadden with 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol — 3 lbs. of Copperas. Turn them on half an hour without boiling. No. 46. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— DARK RED BROWN. Boil same as No. 44 — Sadden with 4 lbs. of Cop- peras. No. 47. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— GRAIN SCARLET. Boil one hour with 5 lbs. of Cochineal — 20 lbs. of Young Fustic — 7 lbs. of White or Brown Tartar — 3 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, or Oxalic Muriate of Tin, which is preferable. No. 48. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SALMON. Boil half an hour with 12 ounces of Dry Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 2 quarts of Spirits. No. 49. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SKY BLUE. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. No. 50. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— SAXON BLUE. Boil half an hour with 1 pint of Liquid Extract — 8 lbs. of Tartar. No. 51. 80 lbs. OF YARN.— DOVE COLOR. Boil half an hour with 8 lbs. of Tartar — 1 gill of Extract — 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear. Brighter Shades of this Color may be got by adding Paste Cochineal instead of Cudbear, but to brighten Cudbear, run through a little Ammonia and warm Water. WOOLLEN DYEING. No. 1. 2 Pieces , LONG WOOLS, 80 lbs. each. GRAIN SCARLET. Boil 1 hour with 9 lbs. of Young Fustic, 6 lbs. of Tartar, 6 quarts of Spirits ; finish in a clean vessel with 4 J lbs. of Lac, 4J lbs. of Cochineal, 4 quarts of Spirits, besides the 6 pints mixed with the Lac. Boil one hour. The Spirits to be used is Nitrate of Tin, or two parts of Nitrate of Tin and one part of Oxalic Muriate of Tin, which is preferable. No. 2. 4 Pieces , BOCKINS, 36 lbs. each. SCARLET. Boil 1J hour with 12 lbs. of Lac, 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 6 lbs. of Tartar, and 13 quarts of Spirits. No. 3. 4 Pieces , ORANGE LISTS, 35 lbs. each. SCARLET. Dye with 10 lbs. of good Lac — 6 lbs. of Young Fustic — 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 3 gallons of Spirits. Boil hour. No. 4. 2 Pieces, SAVED LISTS, 70 lbs. each. SCARLET. Dye with 10 lbs. of Lac — 6 lbs. of Tartar — 8 lbs. of Young Fustic — 3 gallons of Spirits. Boil 1J hour. 84 WOOLLEN DYEING. 85 No. 5. 2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 75 lbs. each. LAC SCARLET. Dye with 12 lbs. of Lac — 8 lbs. of Tartar — 2 lbs. of Rasped Fustic — 9 quarts of Spirits. Boil 1J hour. No. 6. 20 Pieces , SERGES, 8 lbs. each. SCARLET. Dye with 20 lbs. of Lac — 12 lbs. of Tartar — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 12 quarts of Spirits. Boil 1 hour No. 7. 6 Ends, FINE SAVED LISTS, 20 lbs. each. SCARLET Dye with 14 lbs. of Lac — 7 lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 lbs. of Tartar — 6 quarts of Spirits. Boil 1J hour. No. 8. 4 Pieces , GOLD LISTS, 40 lbs. each. ORANGE. Dye with 2 lbs. of Cochineal — 12 lbs. of Quer- citron Bark — J lb. of Lac — 6 lbs. of Tartar — 12 pints of Bark Spirits. Boil 1 hour. No. 9. 2 Ends , BOCKINS, 68 lbs. each. SALMON. Dye with f lb. of Cochineal — \ lb. of Paste Coch- ineal — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Fustic — 12 pints of Spirits. Boil 1 hour. No. 10. 4 Pieces , ORANGE LISTS, 25 lbs. each. SALMON. Dye with 2J lbs. of Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Rasped Fustic — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 7 quarts of Spirits. Boil 1 hour. 8 86 WOOLLEN DYEING. No. 11. 2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each. GBAIN BOSE. Dye with 4 lbs. of Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 18 pints of Spirits. Blue up in a cistern of warm water, with Urine according to shade required. No. 12. 4 Pieces , OBANGE LISTS, 34 lbs. each. GOLD COLOB. Boil 1 hour with 2 lbs. of Cochineal — 12 ozs. Ox Lac — 13 lbs. of Quercitron Bark — 12 lbs. of Bark Spirits. Boil 1 hour. No. 13. 6 Ends, OBANGE LISTS, 28 lbs. each GBAIN BOSE. 5 \ lbs. of Cochineal — 7 lbs. of Tartar — 9 quarts of Spirits — Blue as No. 11. Boil 1 hour. No. 14. 3 Pieces , SAVED LISTS, 58 lbs. each. FULL BED CBIMSON. Dye with 4 lbs. of Lac — 1J lb. of Dry Cochineal — 7 lbs. of Paste Cochineal — 7 lbs. of Brown Tartar - — 10 quarts of Spirits. Boil 1 hour. No. 15. 4 Pieces , OBANGE LISTS, 34 lbs. each. LIGHT BOSE. Dye with 2J lbs. of Cochineal — 2 lbs. of Alum — 6 lbs. of Tartar — 6 quarts of Spirits. No. 16. 2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each. BOSE COLOB. 6 lbs. of Tartar — 2 lbs. of Alum — 6 quarts of Spirits. Boil 1 hour. List them over a Horse tree, without washing, till next day; then finish with J lb. of Paste Cochineal — 2J lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 3 pints of Spirits. WOOLLEN DYEING. 87 No. 17. 4 Ends, LITTLE BOCKINS, 25 lbs. each. YELLOW. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar — 12 lbs. of Young Fus- tic — 7 quarts of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 18. 6 Ends , GOLD LISTS, 84 lbs. each. YELLOW, OB AMBER. Dye with 12 lbs. of Quercitron Bark — 12 lbs. of Fustic — 7 lbs. of Tartar — 5 quarts of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 19. 4 Pieces , ORANGE LISTS, 80 lbs. each. SKY BLUE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Crystals — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 8 gills of Liquid Ex- tract. Boil half an hour. No. 20. 4 Ends, GOLD LISTS, 80 lbs. each. DOVE COLOR. Dye with 1 lb. of Paste Cochineal — 8 lbs. of Tar- tar — 10 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 minutes. No. 21. 2 Pieces, BROAD CLOTHS, 42 yards each.— CRIMSON. Dye with 8 lbs. of Lac — 4J lbs. of Cochineal — 6 quarts of Spirits. Clean and blue in a cistern of warm water with 5 lbs. of Cudbear — 8 pails of Urine. No. 22. 20 Pieces, SERGES, 8 lbs. each. — GREEN. Dye with 40 lbs. of Fustic — 4 pints of Chemic — 4 lbs. of Argol — 8 lbs. of Alum. Boil 1 hour. 83 WOOLLEN 1 YEING. No. 23. 4 Ends , CLOTH, 24 lbs. each. EOYAL BLUE. Dye with 6 lbs. of Prussiate — 6 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits. Enter cold and heat up quickly, and turn on sharply, after boiling 20 minutes get out, and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits, enter again, and boil 20 minutes. No. 24. 4 Ends, 24 lbs. each, DARK ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 6 lbs. of Prussiate — 6 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits. Enter cold and heat up quickly, and turn on sharply ; after boiling 20 minutes get out, and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits ; enter again, and boil 20 minutes ; get out and cool over ; then add 2 lbs. of Logwood, and 1 quart of Finishing Spirits. Boil 20 minutes. No. 25. 10 Pieces , SERGES, 8 lbs. each. ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 8 lbs. of Prussiate — 8 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits — 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits — Log- wood according to shade required. Heat up same as number 23. No. 26. 4 Pieces , ORANGE LISTS, 34 lbs. each. ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 6 lbs. of Prussiate — 6 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits — 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits — 1, 2, 3, or 4 lbs. of Logwood, according to shade. No. 27. 2 Pieces, LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each. ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 6 lbs. of Prussiate — 12 pints of Royal Blue Spirits — 6 pints of Finishing Spirits — Log- wood according to shade. Heat same as No. 24. WOOLLEN DYEING. 89 ]S T o. 28. Gold Lists are dyed in all respects as No. 26. No. 29. 2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each. GREEN. Dye with 60 lbs. of Fustic — 1 pint of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Argol. Boil 1 hour. No. 30. 4 Ends, LADIES’ CLOTHS, 25 yards each. — PURPLE. Boil 2 \ hours with 40 lbs. of Alum — 8 lbs. of Argol — 1 quart of Nitrate of Tin — Wash well and finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood, and 4 lbs. of Peach- wood, in a clean vessel. Enter cool in the finishing and heat up to the boiling point. No. 31. 4 Pieces, PILOT CLOTHS, 120 lbs. each. DARK BROWN. Stuff with 40 lbs. of Fustic — 40 lbs. of Sanders — 6 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 6 lbs. of Copperas. No. 32. 8 Ends, NARROW HONLEYS, 40 yards each.— DARK CLARET BROWN. Stuff with 70 lbs. of Sanders — 10 lbs. of Fustic — 6 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 8 lbs. of Copperas — 1 Cupful of Oil of Vitriol. No. 33. 1 Piece, FLUSHING, 112 lbs.— BLACK. Stuff with 10 lbs. of Copperas — 3 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 3 lbs. of Argol — 2 lbs. of Sumac — 2 lbs. of Fustic — Finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood. Boil one hour. To Dye the same with Chhome : Boil half an hour with 1 lb. of Chrome — } lb. of 8 * 90 WOOLLEN DYEING. Eed Argol — Wash well, and then finish with 24 lbs. of Logwood. Boil forty minutes. No. 34. 12 Ends , BOCKINS.— PEACHWOOD RED. Boil three hours with 60 lbs. of Alum — 20 lbs. of Red Argol — Finish in a pan, 4 at a time, with 40 lbs. of solid Peachwood — 1 gill of Nitrate of Tin. For Bluer shades add a little Urine. No. 35. 2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each GREEN. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar — 10 lbs. of Alum — 3 gills of Chernic — 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil one hour. No. 36. 2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each. CHESTNUT BROWN. Stuff with 120 lbs. of Sanders — 16 lbs. of Fustic —In the middle of the saddening, add a pint of Oil of Vitriol — Sadden with § a lb. of Copperas. No. 37. 3 Pieces, BROAD CLOTH.— DARK GREEN. Dye with 10 lbs. of Argol — 6 lbs. of Madder — 5 pints of Chernic — 40 lbs. of Fustic. Boil two hours. No. 38. 3 Pieces , LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each. CLARET BROWN. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Sanders — 30 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Logwood — Sadden with 3 lbs. of Copperas. No. 39. 4 Pieces , LADIES’ CLOTH.— CHROMED GREEN. Boil half an hour with 1 lb. of Chrome — Finish with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. Logwood. Boil half an hour in the finishing. WOOLLEN DYEING. 91 No. 40. 2 Pieces, BOCKINS, 40 lbs. each. CLARET. Stuff with 30 lbs. of Sanders — 6 lbs. of Logwood — Sadd?n with 6 lbs. of Copperas — 2 pailfuls of Urine. Lighter or Darker shades may be got by giving more or less Logwood in the Stuffing, and more or less Copperas in the Saddening. No. 41. 2 Pieces , LADIES’ CLOTHS.— BROWN OLIVE. Stuff with 30 lbs. of Fustic — 6 lbs. of Logwood — 3 lbs. of Sanders. Sadden with 4 lbs. of Copperas. No. 42. 2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS, 100 lbs. each. MULE DRAB. Dye in Grease, stuff with 14 lbs. of Camwood — 1 lb. of Fustic — 4 lbs. of Sumac— 24 lbs. of Madder. Sadden with 6 lbs. of Copperas. No. 43. 2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS, 100 lbs. each.— STONE DRAB. Dye in Grease, with 20 lbs. of Madder — 1 lb. of Logwood — 1 lb. of Cudbear — 2 lbs. of Sumac — 1 lb. of Copperas. No. 44. 2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS.— FAWN DRAB. Dye with 6 lbs. of Madder — 2 lbs. of Camwood — 2 handfuls of Fustic — 2 handfuls of Cudbear — 4 ounces of Copperas. No. 45. TO DYE 10 STONES OF WOOL NUT BROWN. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Sanders. Add 1 cup of Oil of Vitriol in the middle of the stuffing. Then sadden with 4 lbs. of Copperas. 92 WOOLLEN DYEING. No. 46. TO DYE 4 DRUGGETS, 70 lbs. each, A GOOD LIGHT CLARET. Boil 3 hours with 60 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Argol — 1 pint of Nitrate of Tin — 3 lbs. of Logwood. Finish with 40 lbs. of Lima Peachwood. No. 47. TO DYE 4 DRUGGETS A GOOD CRIMSON. Boil 3 hours with 60 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Argol — 1 pint of Nitrate of Tin. Clean and finish with solid Peachwood, and a little Ammonia, ac- cording to shade. No. 48. TO DYE 2 PIECES, BOCKINS, 40 lbs. each, A GOOD LOGWOOD BLUE Boil with 10 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Finish with 16 lbs. of Log- wood — 3 pails of Urine. No. 49. TO DYE 4 PIECES, FLUSHINGS, LOGWOOD BLUE. Boil 2 hours with 3 lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 3 lbs. of Red Argol — 3 gills of Oil of Vitriol — 20 lbs. of Alum. Then clean, and finish with 20 lbs. of Chipped Logwood — 5 pails of Urine. Enter at 150°, and heat up to boiling point. This is a good mode of dyeing Logwood Blues. No. 50. Wools are prepared the same way, and dyed with the same ingredients, weight for weight, as Yarns and Woollen Pieces are. WOOLLEN" DYEING. 93 No. 51. NEW MODE OF DYEING LOGWOOD BLUES, 2 Pieces , WOOLLEN CLOTHS, 200 lbs. each, OF ANY QUALITY. Boil half an hour with 1 lb. of Chrome — 4 lbs. of Alum — 1 lb. of Red Argol. Clean and finish with 35 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour in the finishing. This is the best mode of dyeing a Log- wood Blue. It will bear exposure to the atmos- phere almost as well as Indigo Blue. No. 52. 2 Pieces , BOCKINS, 40 lbs. each.— MAROON. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of Red Argol — 1 lb. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 30 lbs. of Peachwood — 6 pails of Urine. DAMASK DYEING. No. 1. 10 Pieces , } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— PINK AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 ozs. of Paste Cochi- neal — 5 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of White Tartar — 4 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 30 minutes. No. 2. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASK.— PINK. Dye in a clean vessel with 1J lb. of Paste Cochi- neal — 1 lbs. of Alum — 1 lbs. of White Tartar — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin — Boil 1 hour. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Paste with the same quantity of Acid. No. 3. 10 Pieces , f DAMASK COTTON AND WORSTED.— SALMON AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 50 minutes. No. 4. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASK.— SALMON. Dye in a clean vessel with 8 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 6 lbs. of Tartar. Boil 1 hour. If a Yellower shade is required, add 4 ozs. of Ground Fustic. 94 DAMASK DYEING. 95 No. 5. 10 Pieces , § COTTON & AV OUSTED DAMASKS.— ROSE COLOR. Dye in a clean vessel with 1 lb. of Dry Cochineal — 1 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 2 lbs. of Alum — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. No. 6. 10 Pieces , f- WORSTED DAMASKS.— ROSE COLOR. Dye in a clean vessel with 1J lb. of dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. If Bluer shades be required, let one half of the Cochineal be paste, and the other half dry, and rather less Nitrate of Tin. No. 7. 10 Pieces , COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS, WHITE AND LIGHT RED CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 1 J lb. of dry Cochineal — 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. No. 8. 10 Pieces , | WORSTED DAMASKS.— LIGHT RED CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Alum — 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 2J lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. No. 9. 10 Pieces , COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Paste Coch- ineal — 2 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 2 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil forty minutes. 96 DAMASK DYEING. No. 10. 10 Pieces , } WORSTED DAMASKS. — GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Paste Coch- ineal — 2J lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 3 lbs. of Alum — 6 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil one hour. When the shades are not required very Blue, more Dry Cochineal must be used, and less Paste Cochineal, and if wanted Bluer, use more Paste Cochineal and less Dry Cochineal. No. 11. 10 Pieces , f DAMASK COTTON AND WORSTED BUFE AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 2 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 1 lb. of Young Fustic — 1 lbs. of Tartar — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. No. 12. 10 Pieces, WORSTED DAMASKS.— BUFF. Dye in a clean vessel with 3 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — -1J lb. of Young Fustic— 6 lbs. of Tartar — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Darker shades may be dyed by adding more Cochineal, and the same quantity of other ingredients. No. 13. 10 Pieces , } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— STRAW COLOR AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 12 ozs. of Young Fustic — 1 oz. of Dry Cochineal — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil twenty minutes. No. 14. 10 Pieces , f WORSTED DAMASKS.— STRAW COLOR. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of Brown Tar- tar — 12 ozs. of Young Fustic — 1J oz. of Dry Coch- ineal — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil forty minutes. DAMASK DYEING. 97 No. 15. 10 Pieces , } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— YELLOW AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tar- tar — 5 lbs. of Young Fustic — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil twenty minutes. No. 16. 10 Pieces , } DAMASKS.— YELLOW. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 6 lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil half an hour. Darker shades of Yellow may be dyed by adding more Fustic, and using the same quantity of the other ingredients. If very bright shades are required, use more Spirits in the dyeing. No. 17. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— LAC SCARLET AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 7 lbs. of Lac — 5 lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar or White Argol. Boil one hour. No. 18. 10 Pieces , } WORSTED DAMASKS.— LAC SCARLET. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol — 6 lbs. of Young Fustic — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 8 lbs. of Lac. Boil one hour. No. 19. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— GRAIN SCARLET AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 2J lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil one hour. No. 20. 10 Pieces , WORSTED DAMASKS.— GRAIN SCARLET. Dye with 6 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 2J lbs. 98 DAMASK DYEING. of Young Fustic. Boil one hour. This is the real Grain Scarlet. It can be imitated with Lac Dye, but is not quite so bright. No. 21. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— LIGHT ORANGE AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tar- tar — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 6 lbs. of Young Fustic — 12 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. Boil 40 minutes. No. 22. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASKS.— ORANGE. Dye in a clean vessel with 7 lbs. Brown Tartar — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 1J lb. of Cochineal. Boil 1 hour. When Yellower shades are wanted, use more Fustic, and when Redder shades are wanted, use more Cochineal, with the same quantity of Spirits and Tartar. No. 28. 10 Pieces, } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SKY BLUE AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Common Crystals — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — f of a pint of Liquid Extract — 2 spoonfuls of Nitrate of Tin — 1 oz. of Prussiate of Potash. Boil 40 minutes. No. 24. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASKS.— SKY BLUE. Dye in a clean vessel with 2 quarts of Oil of Vit- riol— 20 lbs. of Crystals — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin — 1 pint of Liquid Extract — 2 ozs. of Prussiate of Pot- ash. The Prussiate will give the color a bloomy appearance, which is difficult to get without it. DAMASK DYEING. 99 No. 25. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SAXON BLUE AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 2 ozs. of Prussiate — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin — 1 pint of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. No. 26. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASKS.— SAXON BLUE. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 1 ozs. of Prussiate — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin — 8 gills of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. If darker shades are required, add more Liquid Extract, according to shade. No. 27. 10 Pieces , } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— LIGHT GREEN AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Alum — 6 lbs. of White Argol — 15 lbs. of Chipped Fustic — - 1 Tot of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. No. 28. 10 Pieces , f WORSTED DAMASKS.— LIGHT GREEN. Dye with 20 lbs. of Alum — 20 lbs. of Fustic — 8 lbs. of White Argol — 1J Tot of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. If the shade is required Bluer, add a little more Extract, and if Yellower a little more Fustic. No. 29. 10 Pieces , } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— MIDDLE GREEN AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol — 15 lbs. of Alum — 1 gill of Chemic — 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1 hour. 100 DAMASK DYEING. No. 30. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASKS.— MIDDLE GREEN. Dye with 6 lbs. of White Argol — 20 lbs. of Alum — | pint of Chemic — 25 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1 hour. Darker shades of Green must have more Chemic, and if a Yellower shade is required, add more Fustic. No. 31. 10 Pieces, } COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS. — CINNAMON BROWN AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Old Rasped Fustic — 2 lbs. of Camwood — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 lbs. of Red Argol — 20 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Madder. No. 32. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASKS.— CINNAMON BROWN. Dye with 50 lbs. of Old Rasped Fustic — 15 lbs. of Super Argol — 25 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Red Argol ■ — 2J lbs. of Camwood, or a handful of Cudbear may be used in the place of Camwood, which will pro- duce the same effect. Boil 1J hour. If a flatter shade is required, add a spoonful of Liquid Extract. No. 33. 15 Pieces, f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— LIGHT FAWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 2 handfuls of Madder — The size of a Knor of Paste Cudbear — 1 spoonful of Liquid Extract. Boil one hour. No. 34. 15 Pieces , } WORSTED DAMASKS.— DARKER FAWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 2 spoonfuls of Liquid DAMASK DYEING. 101 Extract — 1 handfuls Madder — 1 handful Paste Cud- bear. Boil to shade. If a darker shade is required, add more Extract. No. 35. 15 Pieces , f DAMASKS.— LIGHT SIL- VER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 1 handful of Paste Cud- bear — 2 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 min- utes. No. 36. 10 Pieces , DAMASKS.— DARKER SIL- VER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 2 handfuls of Cudbear — 1 handful of Madder — 4 spoonfuls of Liquid Ex- tract. Boil 1 hour. If a darker shade is required, add more Liquid Extract, and other ingredients. No. 37. 10 Pieces , , f WORSTED DAMASKS.— MOCK CRIMSON. The pieces must be boiled for three hours, in a clean vessel with 30 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of White Argol or Brown Tartar — 1 quart of Nitrate of Tin. After which they mutt be well cleaned, and then they must be finished in another clean vessel with 25 lbs. of Peach wood — 3 gills of Nitrate of Tin — 5 pailfuls of Urine. Boil a few Ends. Then clean and dry for the press. This color will very much approach the Grain Crimson, but will not so well bear exposure to the atmosphere. The Cotton and W orsted Damasks are dyed the same way, but re- quire less Acid in the boiling and less Peachwood in the finishing. In dyeing this color, the Cotton is sometimes bleached, which tends to improve it very much. It must be passed a few times through a 9* 102 DAMASK DYEING. weak Chloride of Lime Liquor, with a little Nitric Acid in it. Sulphuric Acid is too strong, and affects the color too much. The Pieces should next be cleaned, and then Blued up to pattern in a vessel of warm water, with Urine according to the shade required. No. 38. 10 Pieces , f DAMASKS.— SEA GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel, at boiling heat, with 5 lbs. of Fustic — 1 tot of Liquid Extract — 20 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of White Argol. Boil one hour. When the shade is required darker, add more Extract, and if Yellower, add more Fustic. No. 39. 10 Pieces , f DAMASKS.— COFFEE BROWN. Dye with 30 lbs. of Camwood — 10 lbs. of Red Argol, or 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 pint of Chemic — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol. Boil two hours. This shade of Color is not often wanted, but as it is sometimes called for, it is here inserted. No. 40. 10 Pieces , DAMASKS.— BLACK. Boil the pieces 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Red Argol — 1 lb. of Chrome — Wash them and finish in another vessel with 20 lbs. of Logwood — 5 lbs. of Old Fustic. Boil half an hour. MOREEN DYEING, No. 1. 15 Pieces, } MOREENS.— LIGHT SKY BLUE. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Common Crystals — 8 pints of Oil of Vitriol — f of a pint of Liquid Extract — 2 spoonfuls of Nitrate of Tin — 1 oz. of Prussiate of Potash. Boil 40 minutes. No. 2. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— BARK SKY BLUE. Bye in a clean vessel with 2 quarts of Oil of Vit- riol — 20 lbs. of Crystals — 1 tot of Nitrate of Tin — 1 pint of Liquid Extract — 2 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash. The Prussiate will give the color a bloomy appearance, which is difficult to get without it. No. 3. 15 Pieces, f MOREENS.— FULL ORANGE. Bye in a clean vessel with 7 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 10 lbs. of Young Fus- tic — 1J lb. of Cochineal. Boil one hour. When Yellower shades are wanted, use more Fustic, and when Redder shades are wanted, use more Cochineal, with the same quantity of Spirits and Tartar. No. 4. 15 Pieces , J MOREENS.— LIGHT ORANGE. Bye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 6 lbs. of Young Fus- tic — 12 ozs. of Bry Cochineal. Boil 40 minutes. 103 104 MOREEN DYEING. No. 5. 15 Pieces , MOREENS.— FULL GRAIN SCARLET. Dye with 6 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 6 lbs. of Brow'n Tartar — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 2J lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil one hour. This is the real Grain Scarlet. It can be imitated with Lac Dye, but it is not quite so bright. No. 6. 15 Pieces , } MOREENS.— GRAIN SCAR- LET. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 2J lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil one hour. No. 7. 15 Pieces, f MOREENS.— LIGHT LAC SCARLET. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol —6 lbs. of Young Fustic — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin ■ — 8 lbs. of Lac. Boil one hour. No. 8. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL LAC SCARLET. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Lac — 5 lbs. of Young Fustic — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 7 lbs. of Brown Tartar or White Argol. Boil 1 hour. No. 9. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT YEL- LOW. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 5 lbs. of Young Fustic — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 20 minutes. No. 10. 15 Pieces , } MOREENS.— FULL YEL- LOW. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of Brown Tar- tar — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 pints of Nitrate of MOREEN DYEING. 105 Tin. Boil half an hour. Darker shades of Yellow may be dyed by adding more Fustic, and using the same quantity of other ingredients. If very bright shades are required, use more Nitrate of Tin in the dyeing. No. 11. 15 Pieces , f MOKEENS.— STRAW COLOR. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tar- tar — 10 ozs. of Young Fustic — 1 oz. of Dry Coch- ineal — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 20 minutes. No. 12. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— BUFF. Dye in a clean vessel with 3 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 1J lb. of Young Fustic — 6 lbs. of Tartar — 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Darker shades may be dyed by adding more Cochineal, and the same quantity of other ingredients. No. 13. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Paste Coch- ineal— 2 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 2 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. No. 14. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— DARK GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Paste Coch- ineal — 2J lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 3 lbs. of Alum — 6 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. When the shades are not required very Blue, more Dry Cochineal must be used, and less Paste Cochineal ; and if wanted Bluer, use more Paste Cochineal, and less Dry Cochineal. 106 MOREEN DYEING. No. 15. 15 Pieces , £ MOREENS.— COFFEE BROWN. Dye with 30 lbs. of Camwood — 10 lbs. of Red Argol, or 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 pint of Chemie — 3 pints of the Oil of Vitriol. Boil 2 hours. This shade of color is not often wanted, but as it is sometimes called for, it is here inserted. No. 16. 15 Pieces, £ MOREENS.— SEA GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel, at boiling heat, with 5 lbs. of Fustic — 1 tot of Liquid Extract — 20 lbs. of Alum — 7 lbs. of White Argol. Boil 1 hour. When the shade is required darker, add more Extract, and if Yellower, add more Fustic. No. 17. 15 Pieces , £ MOREENS.— MOCK CRIM- SON. The pieces must be boiled for 3 hours in a clean vessel with 30 lbs. Alum— 10 lbs. of White Argol or Brown Tartar — 1 quart of Nitrate of Tin — After which, they must be well cleaned, and then they must be finished in another clean vessel with 25 lbs. of Peachwood — 3 gills of Nitrate of Tin — 5 pailfuls of Urine. Boil a few Ends. Then clean and dry for the press. This color will very much approach the Grain Crimson, but will not so well bear expo- sure to the atmosphere. No. 18. 15 Pieces , £ MOREENS.— BLACK. Boil the pieces 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Red Argol — 1 lb. of Chrome — Wash them and finish in another vessel with 20 lbs. of Logwood —5 lbs. of Old Fustic. Boil half an hour. MOREEN DYEING. 107 No. 19. 15 Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT SIL- VER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 1 handful of Paste Cudbear — 2 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 minutes. No. 20. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL SIL VE R DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 2 handfuls of Paste Cudbear — 1 handful of Madder — 4 spoonfuls of Li- quid Extract. Boil 1 hour. If a darker shade is required, add more Liquid Extract to the other in- gredients. No. 21. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT FAWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 2 handfuls of Madder — The size of a Knor of Paste Cudbear — 1 spoon- ful of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. No. 22. 14 Pieces , } MOREENS.— DARKER FAWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 2 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — 4 handfuls of Madder — 1 handful of Paste Cudbear. Boil to shade. If a darker shade is required, add more Extract. No. 23. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— CINNAMON BROWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Old Rasped Fustic — 2 lbs. of Camwood — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 lbs. of Red Argol — 20 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Madder. 108 MOREEN DYEING. No. 24. 15 Pieces, f MOREENS.— DARKER CINNAMON BROWN. Dye with 50 lbs. of Old Rasped Fustic — 15 lbs. of Super Argol — 25 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Red Argol — 2J lbs. of Camwood, or a handful of Cud- bear may be used in the place of Camwood, which will produce the same effect. Boil 1J hour. If a flatter shade is required, add a spoonful of Liquid Extract. No. 25. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— MIDDLE GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 8 lbs. of White Argol - — 15 lbs. of Alum — 1 gill of Chemic — 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1 hour. No. 26. 15 Pieces, f MOREENS.— DARK GREEN. Dye with 8 lbs. of White Argol — 20 lbs. of Alum — 1 pint of Chemic — 25 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1 hour. Darker shades of Green must have more Chemic, and if a Yellower shade is required, add more Fustic. No. 27. 15 Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Alum — 8 lbs. of White Argol — 15 lbs. of Chipped Fustic — 1 Tot of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. No. 28. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— DARKER GREEN. Dye with 20 lbs. of Alum — 20 lbs. of Fustic — 8 lbs. of White Argol — 2 Tots of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. If the shade is required Bluer, add a little more Extract, and if Yellower, a little more Fustic. MOREEN DYEING. 109 No. 29. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT SAXON BLUE. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Yitriol — 2 ozs. of Prussiate — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin — 1 pint of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. No. 30. 15 Pieces , } MOREENS.— DARK SAXON BLUE. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Yitriol — 1 ozs. of Prussiate — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin — 3 gills of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. If darker shades are required, add more Liquid Extract. No. 31. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT RED CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 1 J lb. of Dry Cochineal — 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. No. 32. 15 Pieces , j MOREENS. — FULL RED CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Alum. — 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 2J lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. No. 33. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT ROSE COLOR. Dye in a clean vessel with 1 lb. of Dry Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 2 lbs. of Alum — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. 10 110 MOREEN DYEING. No. 34. 15 Pieces, , f MOREENS. — FULL ROSE COLOR. Dye in a clean vessel with 1J lb. of Dry Cochineal — 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 1 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil 1 hour. If Bluer shades are required, let one-half of the Cochineal be Paste, and the other half Dry, and rather less Spirits. No. 35. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT SALMON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 ozs. of Dry Cochineal —5 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 50 minutes. No. 36. 15 Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL SALMON. Dye in a clean vessel with 8 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 6 lbs. of Tartar. Boil 1 hour. If a Yellower shade is required, add 4 ozs. of Ground Fustic. No. 37. 15 Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT PINK. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 ozs. of Paste Coch- ineal — 5 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of White Tartar — 4 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. No. 38, 15 Pieces, f MOREENS.— FULL PINK. Dye in a clean vessel with 1 J lb. of Paste Coch- ineal — 4 lbs. of Alum — 4 lbs. of White Tartar — 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Paste Cochineal with the same quantity of Acid. TWO COLORED DAMASK DYEING. No. 1. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SCARLET AND PINK. In this color, the worsted must be first dyed Scar- let in a clean vessel with 12 lbs. of Lac Dye — 12 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 8 lbs. of White Argol or Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour. The Pieces must then be well cleaned, and then Cotton Dyed with Safflower. A light shade of Pink will take 1 lb. of Safflower to a Piece, and a dark shade 1 \ lb. It must be spent according to Receipt 68, page 49. The clear Liquor must be put into a cistern of cold water, with about 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, and 1 lb. of Tartaric Acid. The goods must then be entered, and turned on in the Liquor until dyed to shade required. If a Blue shade of Pink is required, rather less Oil of Vitriol must be used, and if a Redder shade, more must be used. Any shade of Pink may be dyed by adding more or less of the clear Safflower Liquor. Various shades of Pink may be dyed from Peachwood, but none are equal to the Pink dyed with Safflower, when Scarlet and Pink are in the Piece together. No. 2. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SCARLET AND YELLOW. The Pieces in these two colors must be first dyed Scarlet the same as in the last color, with the same 111 112 DAMASK DYEING. quantity of ingredients, and then washed and Cotton dyed either through the Padding Machine or in a cistern of cold or lukewarm water, with about 1 lb. of Turmeric to the Piece, more or less, according to shade of Yellow required. The Turmeric must be boiled up with a little Oil of Vitriol; use about 1 lb. of Turmeric to 1 gallon of water, and take the clear Liquor only. No. 3. 10 Pieces , , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SCARLET AND FLESH COLOR. Worsted Dye in Scarlet same as No. 1, and Cotton Dye either at the Padding Machine, or in a clean vessel, with 2 ozs. of Annotta spent with 2 quarts of water and 2 ozs. of Pearlash ; boil well for a few minutes, so that every particle be dissolved. Take the clear Liquor. A great variety of shades of Cotton may be dyed by varying the quantity of Annotta, according to shade, using more for dark and less for light shades. No. 4, 10 Pieces . f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SCARLET AND SALMON. First Worsted Dye in all respects for Scarlet same as No. 1, and Cotton Dye in a clean cistern of cold water with 5 lbs. of spent Safflower, and 1 lb. of Annotta, spent with 1 lb. of Pearlash. Use the clear Liquor only. Give 10 Ends and wash off. No. 5. 10 Pieces , £ DAMASKS.— SCARLET AND ROSE COLOR. First Worsted Dye Scarlet same as No. 1, and Cotton Dye with 8 ozs. of Annotta spent with 8 ozs. of Pearlash, and the clear Liquor from 6 lbs. of Saf- flower. Give 10 Ends, and wash off in another cis- tern of cold water, with 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol in it. DAMASK DYEING. 118 The Oil will raise both the Safflower and the An- notta. This is perhaps one of the finest colors that can be dyed, more especially in a two colored Da- mask possessing great brightness and beauty. No. 6. 10 Pieces , f DAMASKS. — LIGHT GREEN AND PINK. First Worsted Dye Green in a clean vessel with 8 lbs. of White Argol — 20 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Alum — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour. Clean and Cotton Dye in all respects the same as No. 1, with Safflower. - No. 7. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— MIDDLE GREEN AND PINK. First Worsted Dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. of Red Argol — 20 lbs. of Alum — 1 pint of Chemic. Boil 1 hour. If darker shades of Green are wanted, add more Chemic according to shade. Cotton Dye same as No. 1, with Safflower. No. 8. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— GREEN AND YELLOW. This must be first Worsted Dyed according to shade, and then washed and Cotton dved the same as No. 2, with Turmeric. No. 9. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— GREEN AND SALMON. Worsted Dye to the shade of Green in the same way as No. 7, using more or less Extract according to shade required, and Cotton Dye in all respects same as No. 4. 10 * 114 DAMASK DYEING. N o. 10. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SAXON BLUE AND ROSE COLOR. First Worsted Dje Saxon Blue in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 2 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash — 1 tot Nitrate of Tin — 1 pint of Liquid Extract. Wash and Cotton Dye in all respects the same as No. 5, with Safflower and Annotta. A great variety of shades may be dyed in these two colors, by dyeing different shades of Blue and varying the coloring of the Cotton as well. No. 11. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SKY BLUE AND PINK.— Worsted dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 2 ozs. of Prus- siate — 2 spoonfuls of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 40 minutes. Wash and Cotton dye with Safflower ac- cording to shade required, the same as No. 1. No. 12. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— SKY BLUE AND PINK. ANOTHER WAY. Worsted dye in all respects the same as No. 10. And Cotton dye by first Sumacing the pieces with 2 lbs. of Sumac to the piece; run the pieces in the Sumac in the troughs 6 ends, then give 6 ends in Muriate of Tin, at 4° Twaddell, in another trough, then wash and dye with Peachwood Liquor accord- ing to shade, either in the troughs, or at the Padding Machine, or in a cistern of cold water. A good full Pink will require about 1J lb. of Peachwood to a piece. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Peachwood according to the shade. DAMASK DYEING. 115 No. 18. 10 Pieces , $ COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— BLUES AND CRIMSON OF DIFFERENT SORTS. Dye the Worsted first a good Sky or Saxon Blue; or Royal Blue, if a very dark and bright Blue is required; wash well and Cotton dye same as No. 10, only use more Peachwood Liquor. When a very full shade of Crimson is required, the Pieces should be Sumaced as before, and then passed through Ni- trate of Iron, a few Ends, in another trough or cistern ; use about 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron for the 10 Pieces. Then run in the Peachwood Liquor after running them 8 Ends, take up, and add 2 quarts of good Muriate of Tin to raise the Peach- wood and brighten the color. By this mode the fullest shades of Crimson may be dyed. It is the Nitrate of Iron that gives it the more fullness, and causes it to be darker with the same quantity of Peachwood. No. 14. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— GREEN AND CRIMSON. First dye Green according to shade, same as No. 8, and Cotton dye in all respects the same as No. 12. The shade of color may be varied by dyeing the Worsted lighter or darker, and the same with re- spect to the Cotton. It is impossible to give an estimate of the various shades produced by this variation. No. 15. 10 Pieces , f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— DARK BLUE AND ORANGE. Worsted Dye first in a clean vessel with 1 quart of good Chemic — 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Yitriol. Boil one hour, wash, and Cotton 116 DAMASK DYEING. Dye by first Sumacing the Pieces, and Spiriting them the same as No. 11. Then dye the Cotton with 2 lbs. of Peachwood and 2 lbs. of Quercitron Bark to the Piece. This will very much imitate the Royal Blue and Orange, but will not be so bright a color. No. 16. 10 Pieces , , f WORSTED AND COTTON DAMASKS.— DARK AND LIGHT ORANGE. ANOTHER METHOD. First Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 1 quart of Chemic— 2 lbs. of Cudbear. Wash well, and Cotton Dye with strong Annotta Liquor previously spent with Pearlash. The Annotta Orange will affect the Worsted more than the Peachwood Orange. It will tend to flatten it, and the reason that the Cudbear is given in Worsted Dyeing is that it may keep up the bloomy appearance. Various shades may be dyed upon Cotton from Annotta, varying from a light Straw color to a Full Orange ; when the color is wanted very full, the Pieces should be passed through a weak decoction of Oil of Vitriol, after being run in the Annotta. No. 17. 10 Pieces, f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS.— RUBY AND BLUE. First Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cudbear; boil 20 minutes. Clean and Cotton Dye by running the Pieces in the Copperas Vat, one, two, or three ends, according to the shade of Blue required ; then run the Pieces in a weak de- coction of Oil of Vitriol, at about 100° Fahrenheit, to clear the Worsted and brighten the Cotton. DAMASK DYEING. 117 No. 18. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WOBSTED DAMASKS.— YELLOW AND BLUE. First Cotton Dye in the Copperas Yat, clean well, and then Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 10 lbs. of Quercitron Bark ■ — 6 lbs. of White Argol — 4 lbs. of Alum. Boil twenty minutes. «/ No. 19. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WOBSTED DAMASKS.— OBANGE AND BLUE. Cotton dye Blue first, in the Copperas Yat, accord- ing to the shade required. Then wash, and Worsted dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol — 1J lb. of Dry Cochineal — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 10 pints of Spirits. Boil forty minutes. No. 20. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WOBSTED DAMASKS.— SCABLET AND COMMON BLUE. First Worsted dye a good Scarlet, same as No. 1, and Cotton dye by passing a few ends through the Copperas Yat, and then clear in a vessel of warm water with 1 gill of Oil of Yitriol in it. This color is not so bright as the Scarlet and Boyal Blue, or what is called Coffee and Blue. I shall next insert two methods of dyeing Coffee and Boyal Blue, for the information of those who have so often had these colors so uneven and dead, from a want of a proper method of dyeing them. No. 21. 10 Pieces , £ COTTON AND WOBSTED DAMASKS.— COFFEE AND BOYAL BLUE. The Worsted must be first dyed a good bright Scarlet, the same in every respect as No. 1. Then Cotton dye by passing through strong Nitrate of Iron in the troughs, at 4° Twaddell, and to which 118 DAMASK DYEING. add 2 lbs. of Tin Crystals. In this turn 4 ends, and in another trough, with 2 quarts of Ammonia, pass through this out of the Iron, and repeat in each trough two or three times, until a Buff appearance is seen ; then wash well. In another trough, or at the Padding Machine, add 10 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash, previously dissolved ; in this give 6 ends, and then add 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, and give the Pieces 6 ends more. Wash off for the Dry Machine. Then you have a good full Eoyal Blue upon the Cotton. This will produce a good bright color, and if a lighter shade is required, give less Prussiate. Another mode of dyeing the Blue is by dyeing it after Buffing it, the same as dyeing Royal Blue with Blue Spirits and Prussiate. But the brightest is by first running the Pieces in Sumac, about 2 lbs. to the Piece, and a little Logwood with it, and then going through all the process, as stated in the first mode. In this latter method, the Cotton gets a quantity of Logwood upon it which is risen to a sort of Claret when it enters the Nitrate of Iron and the Crystals of Tin, the Iron working up the darkness of the Logwood, and the Crystals of Tin producing the bloom. It is by this means that this is so much brighter and more bloomy than the other with the same quantity of Prussiate. I think I have given as many shades in single and two colored Damasks as are generally dyed, and from these any dyer may, by varying the quantities, obtain a great variety more. CAMLET DYEING. «~THE FOLLOWING PIECES ARE ALL FOUR- QUARTERS. No. 1. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— SCARLET. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Lac — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 15 lbs. of Brown or White Tartar — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1J hour, after which they must be well cleaned. No. 2. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— LIGHT ORANGE. Dye at boiling in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 15 lbs. of Young Fustic — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 4 ozs. of Cochineal. Boil 1 hour, after which, clean well and dry off. No. 3. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— FULL . ORANGE. Dye at a boiling heat in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Young Fustic — 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar or White Argol — 1 lb. of Cochineal — -15 quarts of Ni- trate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, alter which, clean and dry off. No. 4. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— LIGHT YELLOW. Dye at a boiling heat, with 10 lbs. of Quercitron Bark — 10 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 12 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil one hour and then clean and dry oft'. 119 120 CAMLET DYEING. No. 5. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— FULL YELLOW. Dye at a boiling beat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Young Fustic— 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil one hour, and then clean and dry off. No. 6. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— GRAIN CRIM- SON. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Paste Cochineal — 10 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 15 lbs. of Brown Tar- tar — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil one hour, and then wash off. If fuller shades are wanted, add more Cochineal ; if Bluer shades are required, add more Paste Cochineal: and the same quantity of other ingredients. No. 7. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— ASH DRAB. Dye at a boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — 1 lb. of Mull Madder — 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear — f of a gill of Liquid Extract. Boil one hour, and then clean and wash off. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Extract ; when a Redder shade is required, add a little more Paste Cudbear. No. 8. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— SILVER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol • — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — \ lb. of Paste Cud- bear — 1 tot of Liquid Extract. Boil one hour and then wash off. No. 9. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— FAWN DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 quarts of Sulohuric Acid — 8 ozs. of Paste Cudbear CAMLET EYEING. 121 — 6 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — 2 lbs. of Mull Madder. Boil one hour. If darker shades are re- quired, add more Liquid Extract. No. 10. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— SAXON BLUE. Dye at a boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — 3 gills of Liquid Extract — 4 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin. Boil one hour, and then clean and dry off. No. 11. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— MAROON. Dye in a clean vessel at boiling heat with 20 lbs. of Cudbear — 10 lbs. of Camwood — 1 gill of Sul- phuric Acid. Boil one hour. For fuller and Red- der shades add more Camwood and a little more Sulphuric Acid. This color might be dyed by first being boiled and finished in the same way as Mock Maroon, or Mock Crimson, but is not so permanent as by this Receipt. No. 12. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— LIGHT BROWN. Dye at a boiling heat with 40 lbs. of Camwood — 1 pint of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Turmeric — 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid — 20 lbs. Super Argol. Boil two hours. No. 13. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS— DARK BROWN. Dye with 60 lbs. of Camwood — 3 pints of Chemic — 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid — 10 lbs. Turmeric. Boil 2 hours. Less Cam- wood will dye the same shade when the vessel is seasoned, by dyeing a similar color before it. Cam- wood requires to be well boiled to get the strength out of it, and also requires a strong Acid. 11 122 CAMLET DYEING. No. 14. 10 Pieces , CAMLETS.— CLARE! BROWN. First boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs i£ Chrome. Then wash and finish in another vessel with 8 ozs. of Alum — 8 ozs. of Logwood — 20 lbs. of Fustic — 80 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil 1 hour in the finishing, then clean and dry off. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding or diminishing the quantity of Logwood, according to the shade re- quired. A very small quantity of Logwood will make a great difference in the shade. By adding 1 oz. more to each Piece, it will be much darker. The same shade of color may be dyed with Camwood, Chemic, and Acid, but it is more expensive, and sometimes the fabric is made tender by this process. No. 15. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— LIGHT PURPLE. Boil 8 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Red Argol — 10 lbs. of Logwood. Wash well, and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cud- bear — 5 quarts of Ammonia. Clean and dry off. No. 16. 10 Pieces, LONG CAMLETS. MIDDLE PURPLE. Boil 8 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum —10 lbs. of Argol — 20 lbs. of Logwood. Clean well, and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cud- bear — 6 quarts of Ammonia. If a Bluer shade of Purple is required, add more Ammonia in the finishing, and when a Red shade is required, add no Ammonia in the finishing. CAMLET DYEING. 123 No. 17. 10 Pieces , , LONG CAMLETS. DARK PURPLE. This color is dyed in all respects the same as the last, but must have more Logwood in the boiling, and a little more Ammonia in the finishing in order to raise the Logwood. No. 18. 10 Pieces, CAMLETS.— ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING PURPLES. Boil 40 minutes with 2 lbs. ©f Chrome in a clean vessel, then wash well, and finish in another vessel of clean water with 10 lbs. of Cudbear and 10 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and dry off. Any shade of Purple may be dyed in this manner, using more Logwood for darker and less for lighter shades. No. 19. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS. BLUE BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome — 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vessel with 40 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 40 minutes. No. 20. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS. FULL BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome — 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vessel with 50 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Fustic. If not dark enough, add a few pounds more Logwood. No. 21. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS. ROYAL BLUE. In a clean vessel of water add 15 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash — 15 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits. Heat up to 100°, enter the Pieces, and turn them half an hour ; take them on to the wench, and heat the Li- 124 CAMLET DYEING. quor up to 140°, and put the Pieces into the Liquor again, and turn them half an hour more. Again take them to the wench, then heat the liquor up to 180°, and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits. Put the Pieces down again, and turn half an hour more. After which take them out of the vessel, cool them over, heat the Liquor up to boiling point, and add 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits ; enter the Pieces again, boil half an hour, and then take out. The Pieces will then be a good Light Royal Blue. If a darker shade is required, add 2 quarts more Finishing Spirits, and 1 2, or 3 lbs. or more or less, Logwood, according to the shade of darkness required ; enter the pieces again, and boil them half an hour more. Then take them out, cool them over, and clean off for the drying machine. The Logwood will produce a bloomy appearance, and make the color darker. No. 22. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS.— GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum — 15 lbs. of White Argol — 40 lbs. of Chipped Fustic — 1 pint of Chemic. Boil 1J hour. No. 23. 10 Pieces , LONG CAMLETS. BOTTLE GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum — 15 lbs. of White Argdd — 50 lbs. of Old Fustic — 2 or 3 lbs. of Logwood — 3 quarts of Chemic. Boil 1 J hour. LASTING DYEING. IglPTHE FOLLOWING PIECES ARE ALL THREE- QUARTERS. No. 1. 20 Pieces, BASTINGS.— LIGHT YELLOW. Dye at boiling beat, with 10 lbs. of Quercitron Bark — 10 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 12 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour, and then clean and dry off. No. 2. 20 Pieces , LASTINGS.— FULL YELLOW. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Young Fustic — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour, then clean and dry off No. 3. 20 Pieces , LASTINGS.— SILVER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — \ lb. of Paste Cud- bear — 1 tot of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour, and then wash off No. 4. 20 Pieces, BASTINGS.— ASH DRAB. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — 1 lb. of Mull Madder — 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear — § of a gill of Liquid Extract. Boil one hour, and then clean and wash off Lighter or darker shades may 11 * 125 126 LASTING DYEING. be dyed by adding more or less Extract ; when a Redder shade is required, add a little more Paste Cudbear. No. 5. 20 Pieces , EASTINGS. — FAWN DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — 8 ozs. of Paste Cud- bear — 6 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — 2 lbs. of Mull Madder. Boil 1 hour. If darker shades are re- quired, add more Liquid Extract. No. 6. 20 Pieces, EASTINGS.— SAXON BLUE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals — 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid — 8 gills of Liquid Extract — 4 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash — 1 Tot of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, and then clean and dry off. No. 7. 20 Pieces , EASTINGS.— GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Paste Cochi- neal — 10 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, and then wash off If fuller shades are wanted, add more Cochineal ; if Bluer shades are required, add more Paste Cochineal : and the same quantity of other ingredients. No. 8. 20 Pieces , EASTINGS.— SCARLET. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Lac — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 15 lbs. of Brown or White Tartar — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1J hour, after which they must be well cleaned. No. 9. 20 Pieces , EASTINGS.— LIGHT ORANGE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar — 15 lbs. of Young Fustic — 15 LASTING DYEING. 127 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 4 ozs. of Cochineal. Boil 1 hour, after which clean well and dry off. No. 10. 10 Pieces, LASTINGS.— FULL ORANGE. Dye at boiling heat in a dean vessel with 15 lbs. of Young Fustic— -15 lbs. of Brown Tartar or White Argol — 1 lb. of Cochineal — 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, after which clean and dry off. No. 11. 20 Pieces , BASTINGS.— MAROON. Dye in a clean vessel at boiling heat with 20 lbs. of Cudbear — 10 lbs. of Camwood — 1 gill of Sul- phuric Acid. Boil 1 hour. For fuller and Redder shades add more Camwood and a little more Sul- phuric Acid. This color might be dyed by first being boiled and finished in the same way as Mock Maroon, or Mock Crimson but is not so permanent as by this Receipt. No. 12. 20 Pieces, BASTINGS.— LIGHT BROWN. Dye at boiling heat with 40 lbs. of Camwood — - 1 pint of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Turmeric — 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid — 20 lbs. of Super Argol. Boil two hours. No. 13. 20 Pieces, BASTINGS.— GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum — 15 lbs. of White Argol — 40 lbs. Chipped Fustic — 1 pint of Chemic. Boil 1J hour. No. 14. 20 Pieces, BASTINGS.— BOTTLE GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum — 15 lbs. of White Argol — 50 lbs. of Old Fustic — 2 or 3 lbs. of Logwood — 3 quarts of Chemic. Boil 1J hour. 128 LASTING DYEING. No. 15. 20 Pieces, LASTINGS.— BLUE BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome — 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vessel with 40 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 40 minutes. No. 16. 20 Pieces, LASTINGS.— FULL BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome — 2 lbs. of Argol — Finish in another vessel with 50 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Fustic. If not dark enough, add a few pounds more Logwood. No. 17. 20 Pieces, LASTINGS.— CLARET BROWN. First boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome — -then wash and finish in another vessel with 8 ozs. of Alum — 8 ozs. of Logwood — 20 lbs. of Fustic — 80 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil 1 hour in the finishing, then clean and dry off. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding or diminishing the quantity of Logwood, according to the shade required. A very small quantity of Logwood will make a great difference in the shade. By adding 1 oz. more to each Piece, it will be much darker. The same shade of color may be dyed with Camwood, Chemic, and Acid, but it is more expensive, and sometimes the fabric is made tender by this process. No. 18. 20 Pieces, LASTINGS. -DARK BROWN. Dye with 60 lbs. of Camwood — 8 pints of Chemic —20 lbs. of Super Argol — 8 pints of Sulphuric Acid — 10 lbs. of Turmeric. Boil 2 hours. Less Cam- wood will dye the same shade when the vessel is seasoned, by dyeing a similar color before it. Cam- wood requires to be well boiled to get the strength out of it, and also requires a strong Acid. LASTING DYEING. 129 No. 19. 20 Pieces, HASTINGS.— LIGHT PUR- PLE. Boil 3 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Red Argol — 10 lbs. of Logwood. Wash well, and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cud- bear — 5 quarts of Ammonia. Clean and dry off. No. 20. 20 Pieces , LASTINGS.— MIDDLE PURPLE. Boil 3 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Argol — 20 lbs. of Logwood — - Clean well, and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cudbear — 6 quarts of Ammonia. If a Bluer shade of Purple is required, add more Ammonia in the finishing, and when a Red shade is required, add no Ammonia in the finishing. No. 21. 20 Pieces , LASTINGS.— DARK PURPLE. This color is dyed in all respects the same as the last, but must have more Logwood in the boiling, and a little more Ammonia in the finishing, in order to raise the Logwood. No. 22. 20 Pieces , LASTINGS.— ROYAL BLUE. In a clean vessel of water add 15 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash — 15 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits. Heat up to 100°, enter the Pieces, and turn them half an hour ; take them on to the wench, and heat the Liquor up to 140°, and put the Pieces into the Liquor again, and turn them half an hour more. Again take them on to the wench, then heat the Liquor up to 180°, and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits. Put the Pieces down again, and turn half an hour more. After which, take them out of the vessel, 130 LASTING DYEING. cool them over, heat the Liquor up to the boiling point, and add 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits ; enter the Pieces again, and boil them half an hour, and then take out. The Pieces will then be a good Light Royal Blue. If a darker shade is required, add 2 quarts more Finishing Spirits, and 1, 2, or 3 lbs., or more or less, Logwood, according to the shade of the darkness required; enter the Pieces again and boil them half an hour more. Then take them out, cool them over, and clean off for the drying machine. The Logwood will produce a bloomy appearance, and make the color darker. No. 23. 20 Pieces , , LASTINGS.— ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING PURPLES. Boil 40 minutes with 2 lbs. of Chrome in a clean vessel, then wash well, and finish in another vessel of clean water with 10 lbs. of Cudbear and 10 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and dry off. Any shade of Purple may be dyed in this manner, using more Logwood for darker, and less for lighter shades. SHOT COBOURG DYEING. ORLEANS ARE DYED IN THE SAME WAY AS COBOURGS. No. 1. 10 Pieces , f SHOT COBOURGS.— BLUE AND PINK. Worsted Dye with 2 Tots of Liquid Extract — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals. Clean and Cotton Dye with 1 pint of Spent or Bottled Safflower — 1 Tot of Oil of Vitriol. Then wash off. No. 2. 10 Pieces, £ SHOT COBOURGS.— YEL- LOW AND BLUE. Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of White Argol — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 7J lbs. of Young Fustic. Clean and Cotton Dye by first running them 20 minutes through Nitrate of Iron Liquor, 3 gills to a Piece, then through 1J lb. of melted Prussiate of Potash in a separate vessel 6 ends ; then take up and add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, run 8 ends, and then clean off. No. 3. 10 Pieces, £ SHOT COBOURGS.— ORANGE AND BLUE. Worsted Dye with 2 lbs. of Argol — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 10 lbs. of Young Fustic — 1J lb. of Cochineal. Cotton Dye same as No. 2. 131 182 SHOT COBOURG DYEING. No. 4. 10 Pieces , f SHOT COBOURGS.— CRIMSON AND BLUE. Worsted Dye with 3 lbs. of Argol — 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 5 lbs. of Cochineal. Cotton Dye same as No. 2. No. 5. 10 Pieces, £ SHOT COBOURGS.— RUBY AND BLUE. W orsted . Dye with 6 lbs. of Cudbear. Cotton Dye same as No. 2. Darker shades of Blue may be got by adding more Prussiate. No. 6. 10 Pieces, f SHOT COBOURGS.— LAVENDER AND PINK. Worsted Dye with 2 Tots of Liquid Extract — 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals. Cotton Dye by first running them through 20 lbs. of Sumac, 8 ends, then through 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron ; clean, and run them through 2 pailfuls of strong Peach wood Liquor, then through 3 pints of Orlean Spirits, and clean off. No. 7. 10 Pieces, f SHOT COBOURGS.— GREEN AND PINK. Worsted Dye with 2 Tots of Liquid Extract — 20 lbs. of Old Fustic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol. Cotton Dye same as No. 6, or No. 1. No. 8. 10 Pieces, f SHOT COBOURGS.— LAVENDER AND CRIMSON. Worsted Dye with 2J Tots of Liquid Extract — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals. To Cotton Dye them, Sumac and Spirit them, then run through Peach wood Liquor, and Spirit again. HOT COBOURG DYEING. 133 No. 9. 10 Pieces , £ SHOT COBOURGS.— DARK SKY AND CRIMSON. Worsted Dye as No. 8, but add 2 Tots more of Liquid Extract. Cotton Dye same as No. 8, but with stronger Peachwood Liquor. No. 10. 10 Pieces , £ SHOT COBOURGS.— LIGHT GREEN AND SALMON. Worsted Dye with 1 Tot of Liquid Extract — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — 20 lbs. of Old Fustic. Cotton Dye same as No. 8, but with less Peachwood Liquor. No. 11. 10 Pieces , £ SHOT COBOURGS.— GREEN AND PINK. Worsted Dye with 3 Tots of Liquid Extract — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — 30 lbs. of Fustic. Cotton Dye same as No. 6. No. 12. 10 Pieces , SHOT COBOURGS.— GREEN AND CLARET Worsted Dye with 1 pint of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — 20 lbs. of Fustic. Cotton Dye by running them in Sumac, then in Iron Liquor, and then in Spirits, 8 ends in each ; clean and run them in a cistern of cold water, with 10 lbs. of spent Logwood, and clean them. No. 13. 10 Pieces, £ SHOT COBOURGS.— GREEN AND PURPLE. Worsted Dye with 1 gill of Chemic — 20 lbs. of Old Fustic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol. Cot- ton Dye by running them in Sumac, then through 1 quart of Muriate of Tin, then in a cistern of cold water, with 10 lbs. of spent Logwood ; after running 12 134 SHOT COBOURG DYEING. them 8 ends, take up and add 10 ozs. of Crystals of Tin, and run 8 ends more. No. 14. 10 Pieces , f SHOT COBOURGS.— BLACK AND CBIMSON. Worsted Dye Black in the following manner: boil 24 minutes with 2 lbs. of Chrome, then run them through Sumac and Iron separately, clean, and finish with 50 lbs. of Logwood, 15 lbs. of Fustic, 2 lbs. of Red Argol, and boil them half an hour. Similar shades may be got, but not equally approved, being dearer, by being Sumaced and Ironed first, and then Chromed. The Cotton may be dyed after the Wor- sted is dyed Black, by being Sumaced, Ironed, and filled up with Logwood, which for coarse rough Goods is perhaps preferable. Cotton Dye by run- ning them in Sumac and Iron, then clean ; boil up 20 lbs. of Peachwood in the bottom of a cistern, run 8 ends, then take up and add 3 quarts of Muriate of Tin, and run other 8 ends. No. 15. 10 Pieces, -f SHOT COBOURGS.— LIGHT OLIYE AND CRIMSON. Worsted Dye with 5 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract —10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol — 20 lbs. of Fus- tic. Cotton Dye same as No. 14. No. 16. 10 Pieces , SHOT COBOURGS. ORANGE AND PURPLE. Worsted Dye with 2 lbs. of White Argol— 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 1J lb. of Cochineal — 7J lbs. of Young Fustic. Cotton Dye same as No. 13. SHOT COBOURG DYEING. 135 No. 17. 10 Pieces , , f SHOT COBOURGS.— ROYAL BLUE AND FULL PINK. Worsted Dye with 5 lbs. of Prussiate — 10 pints of Blue Spirits — 5 pints of Finishing Spirits. Heat up, according to No. 22 of Hastings. Cotton Dye by running them through Sumac, Iron, and Spirits, separately, then through 20 lbs. of spent Peach- wood, and clean them. No. 18. 10 Pieces , , f SHOT COBOURGS.— GREEN AND ORANGE. Worsted Dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 3 gills of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Argol. Clean, and Cotton Dye by running them in Sumac and Spirits separately, and then boil up in the bottom of a cistern 10 lbs. of Peachwood — 10 lbs. of Quer- citron Bark — 2 lbs. of Alum. Run them 10 ends. Lighter or Darker shades of Orange may be got by adding more or less Peachwood. SILK STRIPED ORLEANS. FROM BLACK, WHITE, AND COLORED WARPS. No. 1. 6 Pieces , f SILK STRIPES.— LIGHT OLIVE FROM BLACK WARP. Dye with 6 lbs. of Turmeric — I lbs. of Logwood — 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes, and clean off. No. 2. 6 Pieces, £ SILK STRIPES.— DARK OLIVE FROM BLACK WARP. Boil 20 minutes with 12 ozs. of Chrome. Clean and finish in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Turmeric • — 1 J lb. of Logwood. Boil 30 minutes, and clean off. No. 3. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES.— BROWN OLIVE FROM BLACK WARP. Dye with 6 lbs. of Turmeric — 4 lbs. of Peach- wood — 6 lbs. of Logwood — J lb. Alum — 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes. No. 4. 6 Pieces, £ SILK STRIPES.— RED BROWN FROM PURPLE WARP. Dye with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Alum — 1 lb. of Logwood — 2 lbs. of Turmeric. Boil 40 minutes. 136 SILK STRIPE DYEING. 137 No. 5. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES. — DARK CLARET FROM BLACK WARP. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 2 lbs. of Cud- bear — 6 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Logwood — 12 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 6. 6 Pieces , , £ SILK STRIPES.— CHROMED BROWN, PURPLE WARP. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 2 lbs. of Logwood — 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 12 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 7. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES.— CLARET BROWN FROM CLARET WARP. Dye with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 8. 6 Pieces , , £ SILK STRIPES.— DARK CLARET BROWN FROM CLARET WARP. Dye with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 4 lbs. of Log- wood — 1 lb. of Alum — 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. Boil half an hour. No. 9. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES.— CHROMED CLARET FROM CLARET PURPLE WARP. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Cudbear. Boil half an hour. No. 10. 6 Pieces . , £ SILK STRIPES.— DARK CLARET FROM PURPLE WARP. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 1 lb. of Cudbear — 1 lb. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. 12 * 138 SILK STRIPE DYEING. No. 11. 6 Pieces , } SILK STKIPES.— RUBY FROM VIOLET WARP. Dye with 6 lbs. of Cudbear. Boil 20 minutes. No. 12. 6 Pieces , f SILK STRIPES.— LIGHT CLARET FROM PURPLE WARP. Boil 1 hour with 6 lbs. of Alum — 12 ozs. of Log- wood. Clean and finish with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 1 lb. of Cudbear. Boil 20 minutes. No. 13. 6 Pieces , f SILK STRIPES.— DARKER CLARET FROM CLARET WARP. Boil 1 hour with 6 lbs. of Alum — 3 lbs. of Log- wood. Clean and finish with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 1 lb. of Cudbear — 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil 20 minutes. No. 14. 6 Pieces , f SILK STRIPES.— ADE- LAIDE FROM BLACK WARP. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 3 lbs. of Cudbear— 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 15. 6 Pieces , f SILK STRIPES.— DARK MULBERRY FROM BLACK WARP. Chrome as No. 2. Finish with 4 lbs. of Logwood — 3 lbs. of Cudbear — 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. No. 16. 6 Pieces , SILK STRIPES.— ADE- LAIDE FROM BLACK WARP. Chrome as No. 2. Finish with 2} lbs. of Log- wood — 2 lbs. of Cudbear — 1 pint of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. SILK STRIPE DYEING. 139 No. 17. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STKIPES. — VIOLET FROM VIOLET WARP. Run 2 ends through the Copperas Vat. Finish with 4 lbs. of Cudbear. Boil half an hour. No. 18. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES.— ROYAL BLUE FROM WHITE WARP. First prepare the Cotton by running them 18 ends in 3 gallons of Nitrate of Iron, then clean and Worsted Dye with 4J lbs. of Prussiate — 4 quarts of Blue Spirits — 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits. Heat up to 100°. When a Buffing Machine is used, much less Iron will do. No. 19. 6 Pieces , SILK £ STRIPES.— LAVENDER FROM WHITE WARP. First run 1 end in the Copperas Vat, then Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 1 lb. of White Argol. 2 lbs. of Alum — 6 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — 1 handful of Cudbear. Redden in a cistern of cold water with 2 quarts of Red Liquor, and 1 lb. of Spent Logwood. No. 20. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES.— RED BROWN FROM PURPLE WARP. Chrome as No. 2. Finish with 6 lbs. of Peach- wood — 6 lbs. of Turmeric — 1 lb. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 21. 6 Pieces , £ SILK STRIPES.— GREEN FROM WHITE WARP. Worsted Dye with 1 gill of Chemic — 12 lbs. of Fustic — 6 lbs. of Alum — 1 lb. of Argol. Clean and 140 SILK STRIPE DYEING. Silk Dye with a little Sweet Extract, at 80°, then Cotton Dye by running them through Sumac and Iron separately, then clean again, and run through 8 lbs. of Spent Logwood in cold water. No. 22. 6 Pieces , f SILK STRIPES.— SOLID GRAIN PINK FROM WHITE WARP. Worsted Dye with 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 2 lbs. of White Argol — 5 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 ozs. of Paste Cochineal. Clean and Cotton Dye with 1 pint of spent or bottled Safflower, and 1 tot of Oil of Vitriol, in a cistern of clean water. ANOTHER MODE. Cotton and Silk Dye together by running them in a little Red Liquor, and then through a little Cochineal previously scalded and settled, and use only the clear Liquor. In this instance, the Cotton, Silk, and Worsted are all dyed from Cochineal, a thing I never saw or knew before I tried it. COLORED ORLEANS FROM BLACK WARPS. No. 1. 10 Pieces , f ORLEANS.— LIGHT BROWN. First run 8 ends in 1 quart of Orleans [Spirits. Clean and then dye with 20 lbs. of Turmeric — 10 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Logwood — 2 J lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 1 lb. of Alum. Boil 40 minutes. No. 2. 10 Pieces , f ORLEANS.— CHROMED BROWN. Boil 20 minutes with 1 lb. of Chrome. Clean and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 5 lbs. of Turmeric — J lb. of Alum. Boil half an hour No. 8. 10 Pieces , f ORLEANS.— CLARET. Spirit same as No. 1. Boil 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour in the finishing. No. 4. 10 Pieces , f ORLEANS.— DARK CLARET. Spirit same as No. 1. Boil 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum — 8 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 12 lbs. of Peachwood — 3 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour in the finishing. 141 142 ORLEANS FROM BLACK WARPS. No. 5. 10 Pieces , f ORLEANS.— BLUE CLARET. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 2 lbs, of Cud- bear — 10 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil half an hour. No. 6. 10 Pieces, £ ORLEANS.— VIOLET. Dye with 8 lbs. of Cudbear. Run them 2 ends through the Copperas Vat. Boil half an hour No. 7. 10 Pieces, £ ORLEANS.— ADELAIDE. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 4 lbs. of Cud- bear — 6 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 8. 10 Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARK CLARET BROWN. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 1 lb. of Logwood — 2 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 9. 10 Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARK BROWN OLIVE. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 10 lbs. of Turmeric — 10 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Log- wood. Boil half an hour. No. 10. 10 Pieces, £ ORLEANS.— GREEN OLIVE. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 4 lbs. of Logwood — 2 ozs. of Alum. Boil 40 minutes. No. 11. 10 Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARKER GREEN OLIVE. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 5 lbs. of Log- wood — 8 lbs. of Turmeric — 4 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. ORLEANS FROM BLACK WARPS. 143 No. 12. 10 Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— CHROMED GREEN. Chrome same as No. 2. Finish with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 13. 10 Pieces, £ ORLEANS. — INVISIBLE GREEN. Chrome same as No. 2, Silk Stripes. Finish with 15 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs., of Fustic. Boil half an hour. Lighter or Barker shades may be obtained by using more or less Logwood. No. 14. 10 Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— BLUE BLACK. Boil 20 minutes with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 20 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 15. 10 Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— FULL BLACK, Chrome same as No. 14. Finish with 25 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Fustic. 1 lb. of Red Argol. Boil half an hour. COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. No. 1. 10 Pieces, f CINNAMON BROWN. Run 8 Ends in 20 lbs. of Sumac — then 8 Ends in 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron — 1 pint of Muriate of Tin — each in a separate vessel ; then clean them, and Dye with 15 lbs. of Turmeric — 2 lbs. of Peach- wood — 2J lbs. of Alum, and 2J- lbs. of Blue Yitriol. Boil half an hour, and clean off. No. 2. 10 Pieces, £ RED BROWN. Prepare as No. 1, Dye with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Logwood — 5 lbs. of Turmeric — 2 \ lbs. of Alum, and 2J lbs. of Blue Yitriol. No. 8. 10 Pieces, £ COFFEE BROWN. Prepare as No. 1, Dye with 25 lbs. of Peachwood — 15 lbs. of Logwood — 8 lbs. of Turmeric — 2J lbs. of Alum, and 2J lbs. of Blue Yitriol. No. 4. 10 Pieces, £ LIGHT CLARET. Run them 8 Ends in 20 lbs. of Sumac — then in 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron — 8 Ends in 1 quart of Muriate of Tin — each in a separate vessel. Clean and run them through 10 lbs. of Logwood, in a 144 COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS. 145 cistern of cold water, then boil theca 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum, clean and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood, and 2 quarts of Ammonia ; boil 20 minutes in finishing. No. 5. 10 Pieces, f MIDDLE CLARET. Prepare same as No. 4. Boil 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 quarts of Ammonia.. No. 6. 10 Pieces , f DABK CL ABET. Prepare same as No. 4. Boil 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Alum. Clean and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 3 quarts of Ammonia No. 7. 10 Pieces , f CHBOMED CLABET. Prepare same as No. 4. Clean and boil 20 minutes with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish in another vessel with 15 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Logwood — J lb. of Alum. No. 8. 10 Pieces, f ADELAIDE. Prepare same as No. 4. Chrome same as No. 7. Finish with 5 lbs. of Cudbear — 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 9. 10 Pieces , f MULBEBBY. Prepare same as No. 4. Chrome same as No. 7, Finish with 5 lbs. of Cudbear — 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 10. 10 Pieces , f APPLE GBEEN. Worsted Dye with 5 lbs. of Turmeric — J gill of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Clean and run them 8 ends in 20 lbs. of Sumac — 8 ends in 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron. 13 146 COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS. Clean again and dye off with 6 lbs. of Turmeric — 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol, and clean off. No. 11. 10 Pieces , f LIGHT OLIVE. Worsted Dye with 1 gill of Chemic — 5 lbs. of Turmeric — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — in other respects, same as No. 10. Olives of this and darker shades may be got from Chroming, but not to appear so Green when looked through the Piece. No. 12. 10 Pieces , f DARK GREEN OLIVE. Worsted Dye with 3 gills of Chemic — 5 lbs. of Turmeric — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Clean, then Sumac and Iron, and clean again, then Dye them off with 5 lbs. of Logwood — 5 lbs. of Turmeric — 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. No. 13. 10 Pieces , f BROWN OLIVE. Worsted Dye with 5 lbs. of Turmeric — 1 gill of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Clean, Sumac, and Iron them separately, and Spirit with 1 pint Muriate of Tin. Clean again, and Dye off with 2 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Peachwood — 2} lbs. of Blue Vitriol. No. 14. 10 Pieces , J DARK GREEN. Worsted Dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 3 pints of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of Red Argol. Clean, and dye the Cotton by first running them through Sumac, and then through Iron ; clean again, and then run 8 ends through 10 lbs. of Spent Log- wood. No. 15. 10 Pieces , f INVISIBLE GREEN. Worsted Dye same as No. 14, but add 1 quart more of Chemic. Cotton Dye same as No. 14. Dark COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS. 147 Greens may be got from Chroming in White W arps as well as in Black. No. 16. 10 Pieces , f RED CLARET. Prepare same as No. 4. Chrome same as No. 7. Finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood . — \ lb. of Alum. — 1 lb. of Logwood. No. 17. 10 Pieces, f RED BROWN. Prepare same as No. 1. Dye with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 5 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Tur- meric — 3J lbs. of Blue Vitriol — 2 lbs. of Alum. No. 18. 10 Pieces , , f DARK BROWN. Prepare same as No. 4. Chrome same as No. 7. Finish with 5 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. of Peach- wood — 10 lbs. of Fustic — 2 J lbs. of Alum. No. 19. 10 Pieces , £ SILVER DRAB. Worsted Dye with 4 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — \ handful of Cudbear — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — ■ 3 gills of Oil of Vitriol. Clean, and Cotton Dye by first running them in Sumac and Iron, 8 ends sepa- rately, and then clear with 1 Tot of Oil of Vitriol in a cistern of clean water. No. 20. 10 Pieces, £ DARK SILVER DRAB. Worsted Dye with 6 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — J handful of Cudbear — 1 handful of Madder — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 3 gills of Oil of Vitriol. Cot- ton Dye same as No. 19. No. 21. 10 Pieces, £ STONE DRAB. Worsted Dye with 5 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — 5 lbs. of Madder — 1 handful of Paste Cudbear — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 3 gills of Oil of Vitriol. 148 COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS. Cotton Dye by running them in Sumac and Iron, 8 ends, and then through 2 pails of Catechu Liquor, and 1 Tot of Oil of Vitriol. No. 22. 10 Pieces, £ MADDER DRAB. Worsted Dye with 5 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — 10 lbs. of Madder — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 handful of Paste Cudbear — 3 gills of Oil of Vitriol. Cotton Dye by first running them in Sumac, and then in Iron, then through a cistern of warm water, with J lb. of Chrome, melted, and 2 Buckets of Catechu Liquor. No. 23. 10 Pieces , f LAVENDER DRAB. First run 1 end in the Copperas Vat, then Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of White Argol — 2 lbs. of Alum — 8 spoonfuls of Paste Extract. No. 24. 10 Pieces , £ PINK. Worsted Dye with 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 2 lbs. of White Argol— 5 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 5 ozs. of Paste Cochineal. Clean and Cotton Dye with 1 pint of Spent or Bottled Safflower and 1 tot of Oil of Vitriol, in a cistern of clean water. No. 25. 10 Pieces, £ SEA GREEN. Worsted Dye with 10 lbs. of Fustic — 10 lbs. of Alum — 2 lbs. of White Argol — 2 tots of Liquid Extract. Clean and Cotton Dye by running them 20 minutes in Nitrate of Iron, at 4° Twaddell, then run 6 ends through 1J lb. of Prussiate of Potash in a vessel of cold water, then take up and add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, run 8 ends more and clean off. COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS. 149 No. 26. 10 Pieces, J SKY BLUE. Worsted Bye with. 1 tot of Liquid Extract — 10 lbs. of Crystals — 1 quart of Oil of Yitriol. Cotton Dye same as No. 25. No. 27. 10 Pieces , f FULL BLACK. Boil 20 minutes with 2 lbs. of Chrome — Sumac* them with 10 lbs. of Sumac — then Iron, clean, and finish with 50 lbs. of Logwood — 15 lbs. of Fustic — 1 lb. of Bed Argol. * A £ lb. of Sumac is sufficient to a Piece when a quantity is Sumaced together, but rather more must be used when only a few are Sumaced together. The Sumac may be used in cold water as well as in warm, without being boiled up in the bottom of a cistern, as it gen- erally leaves a redness on the face of the Piece. 13 * COLORED MERINOS. No. 1. 10 Pieces , f ROYAL BLUE. Heat up to 100°, add 10 lbs. of Prussiate, and 10 quarts of Blue Spirits, run half an hour, take up, heat up to 140° ; but enter again and run another half hour, take up again and heat up to 180°, add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits, enter again, and run another half hour, get out and cool over, heat up to the boiling point, add other 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits, enter again and boil half an hour, get out and clean off. Ho. 2. 10 Pieces, f DARK ROYAL BLUE. Same as No. 1 in all respects, except half an hour’s additional boiling, with 2 lbs. of Logwood, and another quart of Finishing Spirits as the last operation. Lighter shades of No. 1 may be got by using less Prussiate, and darker than No. 2, by add- ing more Logwood. No. 3. 10 Pieces , f BLUE SHADE OF GRAIN MAROON. Boil 20 minutes with 6 lbs. of Cudbear— -then in a separate vessel boil half an hour with 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 2 lbs. of White Argol — 1 lb. of Drv Cochineal. 150 COLORED MERINOS. 151 No. 4. 10 Pieces , £ FULL GRAIN CRIMSON. Boil half an hour with 4 lbs. of White Argol — 4 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Paste Cochineal — 8 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 8 quarts o.f Spirits. Nitrate of Tin is the Spirit for a Grain Color. No. 5. 10 Pieces , £ LIGHT PINK. Dye with 10 ozs. of Cochineal Paste — 4 ozs. of Dry Cochineal — 3 lbs. of Tartar — 6 quarts of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 6. 10 Pieces, £ SALMON. Dye with 6 quarts of Spirits — 6 lbs. of Tartar — J lb. of Cochineal — J lb. of Paste Cochineal. Boil half an hour. No. 7. 10 Pieces , £ GRAIN ROSE. Dye with 6 quarts of Spirits — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 6 lbs. of Dry Cochineal — 2 lbs. of Paste Cochineal. Boil half an hour. No. 8. 10 Pieces, £ LIGHT ORANGE. Dye with 8 lbs. of Young Fustic — 1£ lb. of Dry Cochineal — 6 quarts of Spirits — 4 lbs. of Tartar. Boil half an hour. No. 9. 10 Pieces, £ YELLOW. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Alum — 5 quarts of Spirits — 7§ lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil half an hour No. 10. 10 Pieces . £ GRAIN SCARLET. Dye with 8 lbs. of Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 8 quarts of Spirits — 3 lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil half an hour. 152 COLORED MERINOS. Iso. 11. 10 Pieces , £ LAG SCARLET. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar — 10 quarts of Spirits — 10 lbs. of good Lac — 8 lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil 1 hour. Either White or Brown Tartar will answer the purpose. No. 12. 10 Pieces, £ LIGHT PEA GREEN. Dye with 10 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of White Argol —5 lbs. of Old Fustic — 9 spoonfuls of Liquid Ex- tract. Boil half an hour. No. 18. 10 Pieces, J SEA GREEN. Dye with 1 gill of Liquid Extract — 10 lbs. of Fustic — 5 lbs. of Argol — 20 lbs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 14. 10 Pieces, £ APPLE GREEN. Dye with 1 gill of Liquid Extract — 5 lbs. of Red Argol — 10 lbs. of Turmeric — 3 pints of Oil of Vit- riol. Boil half an hour. No. 15. 10 Pieces, £ BOTTLE GREEN. Dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 20 lbs. of Alum— 10 lbs. of Red Argol— 3 pints of Chemic. Boil 1 hour. No. 16. 10 Pieces, £ INVISIBLE GREEN. Dye with 5 pints of Chemic — 10 lbs. of Super Argol— 10 lbs. of Alum— J a Dish of Logwood. Boil 1 hour. No. 17. 10 Pieces, £ CHROMED GREEN. Boil 20 minutes with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 20 lbs. of Fustic — 8 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour in the finishing. COLORED MERINOS. 158 No. 18. 10 Pieces , f CHROMED INVISIBLE GREEN. Boil 20 minutes with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 15 lbs. of Fustic — 12 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. Compare the last two with Nos. 15 and 16, and you will see the difference of cost. No. 19. 10 Pieces , J PURPLE. Chrome same as No. 17. Finish with 3 lbs. of Logwood — 5 lbs. of Cudbear — 1 pint of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. No. 20. 10 Pieces , f LIGHT CHROMED PURPLE. Chrome same as No. 17. Finish with 8 lbs. of Cudbear — J lb. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. No. 21. 10 Pieces , f VIOLET. Boil 20 minutes with 10 lbs. of Cudbear — then run them through a Copperas Vat. No. 22. 10 Pieces, £ RED RUBY. Boil 20 minutes with 10 lbs. of Cudbear — then wash off. No. 23. 10 Pieces , £ MAROON. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Clean well and finish with 25 lbs. of Peachwood — 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil half an hour in the finishing. No. 24. 10 Pieces , £ LIGHT CLARET. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Clean and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood — 1 gallon of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. 154 COLORED MERINOS. No. 25. 10 Pieces , £ MIDDLE CLARET. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. Red Argol — \ lb. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 25 lbs. of Peachwood — 3 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. No. 26. 10 Pieces, £ FULL CLARET. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum — 10 lbs. of Red Argol — 3 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 30 lbs. of Peachwood — 4 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. No. 27. 10 Pieces, £ DARK GREEN OLIVE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Turmeric — 1 quart of Chemic —10 lbs. of Super Argol — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour. No. 28. 10 Pieces, £ BROWN OLIVE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Turmeric — 15 lbs. of Cam- wood — 1 pint of Chemic — 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Super Argol. Boil 1 hour. No. 29. 10 Pieces, £ FULL RED BROWN. Dye with 30 lbs. of Camwood — 3 gills of Chemic . — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 4 lbs. of Turmeric — 10 lbs. of Super Argol. Boil 1J hour. No. 30. 10 Pieces , £ DARK COFFEE BROWN. Dye with 30 lbs. of Camwood — 5 lbs. of Turmeric — 3 pints of Chemic — 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Super Argol. Boil 1J hour. No. 31. 10 Pieces , £ ADELAIDE. Chrome same as No. 17. Finish with 3 lbs. of Cudbear — 10 lbs. of Peachwood — 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour in the finishing. COLORED MERINOS. 155 No. 32. 10 Pieces , J MULBERRY. Chrome same as No. 17. Finish with 10 lbs. of Cudbear — 10 lbs. of Peachwood — 10 lbs. of Logwood — 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil half an hour in the finishing. No. 38. 10 Pieces, £ LIGHT SKY BLUE. Dye with 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals — 10 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 minutes. No. 34. 10 Pieces , £ DARK SKY BLUE. Dye with 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 minutes. Where Bluer and more bloomy shades are required, add 1 oz. of Prussiate, and a cupful of Nitrate of Tin to the 10 Pieces. No. 35. 10 Pieces , £ LAVENDER. Dye with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals — 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 minutes. No. 36. 10 Pieces , £ RED LAVENDER. Dye with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals — 2 lbs. of Paste Cudbear — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil 40 minutes. No. 37. 10 Pieces , £ MADDER DRAB. Dye with 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 handful of Paste Cudbear — 4 spoon- fuls of Liquid Extract — 5 lbs. of Maddej*. Boil 1 hour. 156 COLORED MERINOS. No. 38. 10 Pieces , £ FULL DRAB. Dye with 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Super Argol — 1 handful of Paste Cudbear — 1 lb. of Madder — 3 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract. Boil one hour. No. 39. 10 Pieces , £ SILVER DRAB. Dye with 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol — 10 lbs. of Crystals — 3 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract — J a hand- ful of Paste Cudbear. Boil 40 minutes. No. 40. 10 Pieces , £ BLUE BLACK. Boil 20 minutes with 1£ lb. of Chrome. Finish with 20 lbs. of Logwood — 2 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil half an hour in the finishing. No. 41. 10 Pieces, £ FULL BLACK. Boil half an hour with 1J lb. of Chrome. Finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood — 10 lbs. Fustic — 1 lb. of Red Argol. Boil half an hour in the finishing. WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. No. 1. 100 WOOLLEN SHAWLS.— ROYAL BLUE. Dissolve 12 lbs. of Prussiate, and put into a vessel with 2 quarts of Ammonia; run the Shawls 6 ends cold ; take up, and add 12 quarts of Blue Spirits, and run 6 ends more cold ; take up again, and heat up to 120°; then run 6 ends more ; take up again, and heat up to 180°; then run 6 ends more; take them out, cool them over, add 3 pints of Finishing Spirits, and heat up to the boiling point ; enter again, and boil half an hour ; take them out, cool over, and add 3 pints more of Finishing Spirits; enter again, boil half an hour, and then clean off. No. 2. 70 SHAWLS.— BLOOMY ROYAL BLUE. Dissolve 12 lbs. of Prussiate, which put into a cistern of cold water, with 1J lb. of Logwood and 9 quarts of Blue Spirits. Run 6 ends cold, then take them up, and add 3 quarts more of Blue Spirits ; get down again, put the steam on with the Shawis in the vessel, heat up to the boiling point, and boil 20 minutes ; then take out, cool over, add 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits, boil up well before entering them, enter, boil 20 minutes more, and then clean off. This is the best mode of dyeing Royal Blue Shawls. 14 157 158 WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. No. 3. 50 SHAWLS.— LIGHT ROSE. Dje with 2 1 lbs. of Alum — 5 lbs. of White Tar- tar — 1 quarts of Nitrate of Tin — 12 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. Give them half the Cochineal at the be- ginning, and the remainder when they have boiled half an hour, after which boil half an hour more. No. 4. 60 SHAWLS.— FULL ROSE. Dye with 5 lbs. of Tartar — 2J lbs. of Alum — 4 quarts of Spirits — 1 \ lb. of Dry Cochineal. Boil 40 minutes. Less Spirits and Acids will do when shades of the same sort have been dyed before in the same vessel. No. 5. 50 SHAWLS.— LIGHT SALMON. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar — 2 ozs. of Young Fus- tic — 4 ozs. of Cochineal — 3 quarts of Spirits. Boil 40 minutes. No. 6. 30 SHAWLS.— FULL SALMON. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar — 8 ozs. of Cochineal — 4 ozs. of Young Fustic — 3 pints of Spirits. Boil 40 minutes. No. 7. 40 SHAWLS.— MELON. Dye with 8 ozs. of Cochineal — 3 lbs. of Tartar — 4 pints of Spirits. Boil 40 minutes. No. 8. 40 SHAWLS.— YELLOW. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar — 1 lb. of Alum — 4 lbs. of Quercitron Bark — 4 pints of Oxalic Tin. Boil 20 minutes. WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. 159 No. 9. 40 SHAWLS.— OEANGE. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar — 8 ozs. of Cochineal — 4 lbs. of Young Fustic — 4 pints of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 10. 40 SHAWLS.— YELLOW BUFF. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar — 5 pints of Spirits — 1 oz. of Cochineal — 2 ozs. of Young Fustic. Boil J an hour. No. 11. 40 SHAWLS.— LIGHT BUFF. 2 ozs. of Cochineal — 8 ozs. of Young Fustic — 2 lbs. of Tartar — 3 pints of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 12. 40 SHAWLS.— FULL BUFF. Dye with 4 ozs. of Young Fustic — 3 lbs. of Tartar — 4 ozs. of Cochineal — 3 pints of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 13. 40 SHAWLS.— SCAELET. Dye with 8 lbs. of good Lac — 4 lbs. of Tartar — 4 lbs. of Young Fustic — 3 pints of Nitrate of Tin — 6 pints of Oxalic Tin. Boil 1 hour. No. 14. 40 SHAWLS.— LAYENDEE. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar — 8 ozs. of Cudbear — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil half an hour. No. 15. 40 SHAWLS.— SKY BLUE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Common Crystals — 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol — 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil half an hotir. ART OF PADDING. TO MAKE THE STANDARD COLORS, AND HOW TO MIX THEM FOR VARIOUS SHADES. Padding is only another mode of dyeing the same color. It is done by a Machine, rather similar to the Crabbing Machine. The Standard Colors are made according to the annexed Receipts. In Pad- ding any color, the Liquor is put into the Trough, above which are two Rollers, which revolve against each other with great pressure ; they are covered either with Woollen or Cotton, and the lower Roller revolves in the Dyeing Liquid. The Pieces are put under the Trolly, or small Roller in the Trough, and passed through the Machine. Some light colors are dyed sufficiently by passing them only once through the Machine ; while darker colors require to be passed through two or three times, adding more Dye Liquor according to shade. By means of Padding, Cotton and Worsted may be dyed nearly the same color at the same time, but colors produced by Pad- ding are not so permanent as those obtained by the ordinary mode of dyeing. A more permanent color by Padding may be got by dyeing the W orsted first a little lighter than the shade required, and then by Cotton Dyeing by passing through the Padding Ma- chine. The Pieces after having been Padded are 160 ART OF PADDING. 161 taken to the Drying Machine, and dried off the Bolls, or passed slowly through a hot stove. Any person not acquainted with Padding may soon acquire the art, and produce equally as good colors, as any person who has been practising for some time, by adopting the following Receipts ; which show how to make the Standard Colors, and how they are mixed. It is difficult, however, to convey to any person not acquainted with matching, the nicety of bringing up the particular hue required. It can be obtained only by practice. N.B. — Though there are many different colors or tints in the works of nature, and also in objects pro- duced by art, yet all the colors that we see, or can imagine, are formed of only three colors, called the 'primary colors , viz., red, yellow, and blue. All other colors are mixed in different ways from these, and are denominated compound colors. Hence Green is a mixture of yellow and blue ; and the shade may be varied by taking more of the one and less of the other. Orange is a mixture of yellow and red; purple , a mixture of blue and red, and violet is ob- tained by the addition of more blue to the mixture. Brown, drab, gray, lilac, and other colors or tints are also formed by similarly mixing the primary colors. White is perfect lightness, or the absence of all color, and black is perfect darkness. White and black, strictly speaking, are not colors, though they are seen both in nature and art. 14 * 162 ART OF PADDING RECEIPTS FOR PADDING. No. 1. ESTARIAZER STANDARD. 4J gallons of Water— 1 gallon of Brown Stand- ard — 1 gallon of Red Liquor — 1 quart of Iron Liquor, 21° Twaddell — 2 quarts of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 1 pint of Bark Liquor, 8° Twaddell. To pad this color give Water according to shade. No. 2. RED BROWN STANDARD. 8 gallons of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 8 gal- lons of Bark Liquor, 12° Twaddell — 8 gallons of Fustic Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 24 lbs. of Alum — 6 lbs. of Sugar of Lead. Dissolve together, and when settled, use the clear Liquor only ; dissolve 6 lbs. of Yerdigris in 2 gallons of Water, 4 gallons of Purple Standard. Mix together. As this grows better by keeping, it should be prepared three or four weeks before it is used. No. 3. DARK PURPLE STANDARD. 4 gallons of Red Liquor — 8 lbs. of Logwood, heat up to 120°. Add J- lb. of Oxalic Acid. Let it settle 24 hours, and use the clear Liquor only. No. 4. DRAB STANDARD. 2 quarts of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddell — 2 quarts of Iron Liquor, 24° Twaddell— 2 gallons of Water — 1 pint of Gall Liquor, 10° Twaddell. ART OF PADDING. 163 No. 5. DRAB STANDARD. 3 quarts of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddell — 1 noggin of Acetic Acid — 1 noggin of Carbonate of Iron. To 1 gallon of this Standard, add water according to shade. No. 6. GRAY, OR QUAKER DRAB STANDARD. 1 lb. of Copperas, dissolve in 8 quarts of hot Water — 2 quarts of Gall Liquor, 4° Twaddell — 1 gill of Sulphate of Indigo, or Chemic. No. 7. SLATE STANDARD. } lb. of Copperas — 5 quarts of hot Water — 1 gill of Chemic — 1 pint of Gall Liquor, 4° Twaddell — 1 quart of Iron Liquor. No. 8. DOVE STANDARD, OLD WAY. 1 gallon of Purple Standard — 1 pint of Extract of Indigo — 1 pint of Prussiate Liquor at 2 lbs. per gallon of Water* — 1, 2, or 3 gallons of water to 1 of the Standard, as the shade may require. No. 9. DARK DOYE STANDARD, NEW WAY. 4 pints of Gall Liquor, 5° Twaddell — \ lb. of Copperas — 1 pint of Purple Standard — 1 noggin of Extract of Indigo — 1 noggin of Prussiate Liquor,* same as No. 8. No. 10. LIGHT DOYE STANDARD. 1 gallon of Purple Standard — 1 gallon of Water — 5 gills of Extract of Indigo — 3 gills of Prussiate Liquor. * For the Prussiate Liquor dissolve 2 lbs. of Pussiate in 1 gallon of hot Water ; and for the Extract of Indigo, mix 1 quart of Sulphate of Indigo with 1 gallon of Water. 164 ART OF PADDING. No. 11. FAWN DRAB STANDARD. 3 lbs. of Madder — 4 gallons of Water, boil 10 minutes. Add \ lb. of Alum — 5 gills of Iron Liquor. No. 12. LAVENDER STANDARD. 10 gallons of hot Water — J lb. of Prussiate — 7 quarts of Purple Standard — 4 gills of Extract of Indigo. No. 18. SULPHATE OF INDIGO. Take Sulphate of Indigo, or Chemic, dissolve 1J lb. of Ground Spanish Indigo in 6 lbs. of Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol. Let it stand 24 hours in a warm bath, then add 3 gallons of boiling Water and 1 lb. of White Sugar of Lead, and strain through flannel. No. 14. BLUE STANDARD. 4 quarts of hot Water — J lb. of Oxalic Acid — 1 pint of Prussiate Liquor — 1 pint of Extract. When bloom is wanted, add a little Bloom Pink Standard. No. 15. BLOOM PINK STANDARD. 1 lb. of Cochineal and 2 lbs. of Spirits of Ammonia ; mix and let them stand in a warm place 24 hours, and then add 2 gallons of Water ; boil down to 1 gallon, then add 12 ozs. of Alum — \ a lb. of Oxalic Acid — | a lb. of Tin Crystals. No. 16. ROYAL BLUE STANDARD. 3 gallons of warm Water — 8 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash— 6 lbs. of Tartaric Acid — 6 quarts of Prus- siate of Tin — 1 gill of Blue Spirits. This will do either for padding or printing. ART OF PADDING. 165 No. 17. PRUSS1ATE OF TIN. To make Prussiate of Tin, dissolve 4 lbs. of Prus- siate of Potash in 6 gallons of warm Water; in another vessel dissolve 5 lbs. of Tin Crystals in 6 gallons of Water, and mix both Liquors together; then pour cold Water into the admixture, when the Prussiate will be precipitated, forming a pulp at the bottom of the vessel. Pour cold Water upon it till all the acid be washed off. The result will be 2 gallons of pulp, which will be the real Prussiate of Tin. No. 18. CLARET STANDARD. 5 gallons of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 4 gallons of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 1 \ lb. of Sal am- moniac. Mix well, and let them stand 24 hours. No. 19. TO PAD CLARET. Take 8 gallons of Claret Standard — 4 gallons of Red Liquor — 3 pints of Extract of Indigo — 3 pints of Nitrate of Copper — 3 lbs. of Common Salt. No. 20. TO PAD BLACK. 1 gallon of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 1 pint of Pyroligneous Acid, 4° Twaddell — J a noggin of Acetate of Copper — 1 noggin of Nitrate of Iron — ■ 1 noggin of Muriate of Iron — 1 noggin of Extract of Indigo. No. 21. TO MAKE ACETATE OF COPPER. Dissolve 4 lbs. of Sulphate of Copper, or Blue Vitriol, and 2 lbs. of Sugar of Lead in 1 gallon of boiling Water. 166 ABT OF PADDING. No. 22. STONE DRAB STANDARD. Dissolve in 4 gallons of hot Water 1 lb. of Cop- peras. Add 4 pints of Gall Liquor. 4° Twaddell — 4 pints of Bark Liquor, 2° Twaddell — 1 pint of Nitrate of Iron — 1 noggin of Sulphate of Indigo, or Chemic. Add water according to shade required. No. 23. ORANGE STANDARD. 4 gallons of Water — 6 lbs. of Anotta — J lb. of Pearlash — J lb. of Soft Soao. Boil 10 minutes, and let it settle 12 hours. No. 24. LIGHT OLIVE STANDARD. 1 quart of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddell — 1 quart of Fustic Liquor, 8° Twaddell — 1 quart of Red Liquor — 1 quart of Purple Standard — 1 quart of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell. No. 25. TO PAD DARK SHADES OF OLIVE. Use 2 quarts of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddell — 12 quarts of Fustic Liquor, 12° Twaddell — 1 lb. of Alum — 2 quarts of Purple Standard — Logwood Liquor according to shade. No. 26. LILAC. Take 2 quarts of Pink Standard — 4 quarts of Pur- ple Standard. No. 27. SLATE STANDARD. 2 lbs. of Copperas — 2 gallons of hot Water — 2 quarts of Gall Liquor, 10° Twaddell — 2 quarts of Sulphate of Indigo. Add Water according to shade. ART OF PADDING. 167 No. 28. FIRST SHADE, YELLOW STONE DRAB. 4 quarts of Bark Liquor, 2° Twaddell — 4 gallons of W ater — 1 quart of Gall Liquor — 2 quarts of Iron Liquor. No. 29. SECOND SHADE, STONE DRAB. 4 quarts of Bark Liquor, 2° Twaddell — 1 pint of Iron Liquor — \ a noggin of Sulphate of Indigo. Add W ater according to shade. No. 30. THIRD SHADE. 1 quart of Bark Liquor, 2° Twaddell — 1 noggin of Iron Liquor — 3 quarts of First Shade Standard. No. 31. CINNAMON STANDARD. 1 gallon of Water — 2 lbs. of Annotta — 1 lb. of Pearlash. Boil together. In another vessel, boil 2 lbs. of Catechu — 1 gallon of Water — 1 lb. of Chrome — 1 pint of Acetate of Copper No. 32. TO PAD CINNAMON. Use 1 pint of Acetate of Copper — 1 gallon of Cin- namon Standard — Half out of each vessel, as de- scribed in No. 31. No. 33. TO PAD ESTARIAZER COLOR. 2 gallons of Cinnamon Standard — 1 gallon of No. 28, Stone Standard — 1 quart of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell. No. 34. TO PAD SLATE COLORS. Take 2 gallons of Slate Standard, No. 27 — 4 gal- lons of Water. Darker or Lighter shades may be got by adding more or less of the Standard. 168 ART OF PADDING. No. 35. DARK GREEN STANDARD. 1 gallon of Persian Berry Liquor, 16° Twaddell — 3 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash — J lb. of Oxalic Acid — 1 quart of Red Liquor* — 3 gills of Extract of In- digo — 1 noggin of Muriate of Tin — \ a noggin of Oil of Vitriol. No. 36. PALE GREEN. 2 quarts of Green Standard, No. 35 — 1 pint of Persian Berry Liquor — And water as required. No. 37. SKY BLUE STANDARD. Mix 10 lbs. of good Paste Extract with 1 pailful of Water ; dissolve every particle to prevent Blotch- es when used ; fill the Trough to a little above the Trolly, then add 1 quart of this Standard for a Light Blue, and 1 gill of Ammonia, and boil while running the first end through ; if not dark enough, run through again. For Dark Shades add more Extract and Ammonia. No. 38. LAVENDER STANDARD. Dissolve 20 lbs. of Alum and 10 lbs. of Sugar of Lead in 5 pails of Water, then take off the clear Liquor and heat up to 180°, and then put into a bag 4 or 5 pailfuls of Logwood, and rinse it in this Liquor ; let it steep in it about 5 hours, and then draw out the bag. This is Lavender Bloom Stan- dard. For the Blue Standard for Lawenders, dis- solve 3 lbs. of Tartaric Acid, 2 lbs. of Alum, and 14 lbs. of good Extract, with 2 pailfuls of hot water. For Lighter or Darker Shades of Lavenders, take more or less of the Blue Standard with Bloom Standard, according to shade required. ART OF PADDING. 169 TO PAD TEN PIECES, LAVENDER. Take 1 pail of Bloom Standard and 2 quarts of Blue Standard ; heat up to 180°, add 1 pint of Red Liquor, and then run 4 ends. No. 39. DRAB PREPARATION, OR ANOTHER MODE OF PADDING DRAB. Take 8 pints of Fustic Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 1 pint of Muriate of Tin, run them 2 ends through the boiliug Liquor at the Machine. This mode of pad- ding Drabs is preferred by some parties. No. 40. TO PAD DIFFERENT SHADES OF DRAB. Fill up a little above the Trolly with cold water, and put in a little Iron Liquor at full strength, a little Blue Standard, a little Lavender Bloom Stand- ard, and a little Archil, all at full strength, accord- ing to shade required. For Fawn Shades, add only a little Bloom, but for heavier shades add a little Iron Liquor as well ; for Bluer shades of Drab, add a little Blue Standard ; and for very blooming shades, add a little Archil with more Bloom Standard. With more or less of these Ingredients properly mixed, any shades of Drab may be got without much difficulty, the Goods being previously prepared ac- cording to No. 39, it being the basis for all these Ingredients. No. 41. SKY BLUE. Another mode of Padding. — Take 6 gallons of Water, 1J noggin of Nitrate of Iron, 90° Twaddell, i a noggin of Muriate of Tin, mix well, run 3 ends, then dissolve 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid, and 4 ozs. of Yellow Prussiate of Potash, in 6 gallons of Water, 15 170 ART OF PADDING. to which add J a noggin of Extract of Indigo, and put this into the Trough, and run 3 or 4 ends, ac- cording to the shade required, and then dry at the Machine. No. 42. ROYAL BLUE. How to prepare Royal Blues — Add 3 lbs. of Tin Crystals to 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol ; in another ves- sel, melt 4 lbs. Chloride of Lime, add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol with 8 gallons of Water: run 4 ends through Tin Preparation, 6° Twaddell, then through the Chloride of Lime, 2° Twaddell, then through a fresh Liquor of Nitrate of Iron 12° Twaddell, then through Soda, 1 J lb. to a Piece ; wash and run them in Strong Prussiate Liquor, with a little Oil of Vit- riol in it, at the Padding Machine, after which they must be steamed. The Steaming will raise the Cot- ton and the Worsted from a flat Green to a good Blue. SILK WARP, SKEIN, AND HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING. No. 1. BLACK. 3 gallons of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 3 lbs. of D. British Gum, 12 ozs. of Gum Dragon, 6 ozs. of Sal ammoniac ; boil well. When half cold, add 1 pint of S. Copper Liquor. When cold, add 1 quart of Muriate of Iron, 3 gills of Nitrate of Iron. No. 2. SCARLET. 1 gallon of Cochineal Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 1 lb. of Starch. At blood heat, add 3 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, 4 ozs. of Tin Crystals, 1 gill of Persian Berry Liquor, 8° Twaddell. No. 3. GREEN. 1 gallon of French Berry Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 1 lb. of Alum, 1 lb. of Flour. When taken off the fire add 1 quart of Extract of Indigo, 1 quart of Red Liquor. No. 4. CLARET. 1 quart of Bronze Logwood, 1 quart of Bronze Peach wood, 1 quart of Red Liquor, 2 \ lbs. of British Gum. When taken off the fire, add 1 quart of Y. Copper Liquor. 171 172 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 5. BROWN. 10 parts of Amber Color, 4 parts of Ruby, 1 part of Black. No. 6. DARK RED. 8 of Bronze Peachwood, 1 of Nitro-Muriate of Tin; add 2 of tbe above to 1 of Gum Water, then add 1 lb. of Alum per gallon. No. 7. ORANGE. 3 lbs. of good Annotta, 1 lb. of Caustic Potash 16° Twaddell — Boil until dissolved, add 1 of the above to 2 of Gum Water, and then add 2 ozs. of Alum per gallon. No. 8. AMBER. 1 gallon of Berry Liquor, 9° Twaddell, 1 oz. of Alum, 2J lbs. of British Gum. When taken off the fire, add 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals. -No. 9. PINK. 1 lb. of fine ground Cochineal, 1 lb. of strong Spirits of Ammonia. Mix, and let them remain in a hot stove for at least 24 hours, then add 2 gallons of Water, and boil the whole down to 2 gallons, then add 4 ozs. of Alum, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, 4 ozs. of Tin Crystals. Thicken with Gum Senegal. No. 10. LIGHT PINK. 1 of the above to 3 of Gum Water. No. 11. PEACH. 20 of Ammoniacal Cochineal, 1 of Extract of In- digo. SILK WARP PRINTING. 178 No. 12. LIGHT PEACH. 1 of the above to 8 of Gum W ater. No. 13. DARK PURPLE. 1 of Bronze Logwood, 1 of Red Liquor, 4 of Gum W ater. No. 14. LIGHT PURPLE. 1 of Bronze Logwood, 5 of Red Liquor, 5 of Gum W ater. No. 15. BLUE. 1 gallon of Red Liquor, 8 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid 1 lb. of Paste Indigo. Thicken with Gum Senegal. No. 16. DARK BROWN. 26 quarts of Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 10 quarts of Logwood Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 9 quarts of Sapan Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 5 lbs. of Sulphate of Copper, 10 lbs. of Alum, 2 lbs. of Sal Ammoniac, 6 gallons of thick Gum Water. No. 17. LIGHT BROWN. 2 gallons of Catechu, 10° Twaddell, 1 gallon of Berry Liquor, 10° Twaddell, 1 gallon of Sapan Li- quor, 6° Twaddell, 4 ozs. of Nitrate of Copper. Thicken with Gum Senegal. No. 18. POPPY RED. 2 lbs. of Ground Cochineal, 1 pint of Strong Am- monia, 8 pints of Water, 4 pints of thick Gum Water, 4 ozs. of Alum, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, 1 nog- gin of Murio-Sulphate of Tin. Pass the above through a fine Sieve. 15 * 174 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 19. DARK FAWN. 1 quart of Water, 1 pint of Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 1 pint of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 4 ozs. of Sal Ammoniac, 2 lbs. of Catechu, when dissolved, add 1 pint of V. Copper Liquor; thicken with British Gum. No. 20. LIGHT FAWN. Take 1 of the above to 4 of Gum Water. No. 21. DARK DRAB. 1 quart of Logwood, 12° Twaddell, 1 quart of Sumac, 6° Twaddell, 2 quarts of Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 4 ozs. of Alum, 2 quarts of Copperas Buff* thicken with British Gum. No. 22. LIGHT DRAB. Add 2 of the above to 4 of Gum Water. No. 23. DARK DAHLIA. 1 gallon of Red Archil, 1 gallon of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 6 lbs. of Gum Senegal, raise in a weak Ammonia Liquor. No. 24. LIGHT DAHLIA. Add 1 of the above to 4 of Gum W ater. No. 25. DARK BLUE. 2 quarts of Water, 2 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash, when dissolved, add 2 quarts of Gum Water, 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid; when cold, add J a noggin of Sulphuric Acid. No. 26. LIGHT BLUE. In 1 gallon of Gum Water dissolve 2 ozs. of Tartaric Acid ; and then add 1 pint of Extract of Indigo. SILK WARP PRINTING. 175 No. 27. DARK GREEN. 1 gallon of Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 12 ozs. Alum, 2 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid ; when dissolved, thicken with 3 lbs. of G-um Senegal, 3 noggins of Vinegar ; add 1 noggin of Muriate of Tin, stirring it well while adding it, to which add 1 quart of Extract of Indigo. No. 28. LIGHT GREEN. Add 1 of the above to 3 of Gum Water. No. 29. SLATE STANDARD. 5 quarts of Red Liquor, 18° Twaddell, 1 gill of Iron Liquor, 22° Twaddell, add 5 parts of the above to 1 of Bronze Logwood, add 2 parts of the above Standard to 1 of Gum Water, for the Dark Slate Color. No. 30. LIGHT SLATE COLOR. Add 1 of the Standard to 8 of Gum Water. No. 31. RED RUBY 1 gallon of Bronze Peachwood, 3 lbs. of Gum Senegal, 1 lb. of Ground Alum, at blood heat, add 1 gill of Oxy-Muriate of Tin. No. 32. MAZE. 7 pints of Water, 3 ozs. of Pearlash, 1J lb. of Annotta. No. 33. DARK LAVENDER. 1 of Dark Purple, No. 13, 1 of Blue, No. 15, 2 of Gum Water. No. 34. LIGHT LAVENDER. 1 of Dark Purple, No. 13, 1 of Blue, No. 15, 6 of Water 176 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 35. DARK MAROON. 1 quart of Bronze Logwood, 1 quart of Brc nze Peachwood, 1 quart of Y. Copper Liquor. Thicken with 3 lbs. of British Gum. Boil well, and then add 1 quart of Red Liquor at 18° Twaddell. No. 36. LIGHT MAROON. 2 quarts of Catechu Liquor, 10° Twaddell, 2 quarts of Sumac Liquor, 6° Twaddell, thicken with Gum Senegal, and then add 6 ozs. of Nitro-Muriate of Tin. No. 37. DARK GRAIN CRIMSON. 1 lb. of Ground Cochineal, 2 quarts of Spirits of Ammonia, mix and put in a hot stove for 24 hours, then add 2 quarts of water, and boil well ; thicken with 3 lbs. of Gum Senegal, and then add 8 ozs. of Alum. No. 38. PONTIA. 1 gallon of Cochineal Liquor, 8° Twaddell, thicken with 1 lb. of Starch, at blood heat, add 2 ozs. of Alum, 2 ozs. of Oxalio Acid, and 2J ozs. of Crystals of Tin. No. 39. ROSE. 1 lb. of Ammoniacal Cochineal to 3 lbs. of Gum W ater. No. 40.. DARK APRICOT. 1 gallon of W ater, 4 lbs. of Catechu, 8 ozs. of Sal Ammoniac, 1 pint of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddell ; thicken with British Gum, add 1 pint of Copper Liquor, 1 gill of Muriate of Copper, and 1 pint of Red Liquor. SILK WARP PRINTING. 177 No. 41. LIGHT APEICOT. 2 quarts of Persian Berry Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 6 ozs. of Alum, 1 quart of Maze Color, No. 32, 1 nog- gin of Oxy-Muriate of Tin, 2 quarts of Gum Water. No. 42. DARK RED PURPLE. 3 quarts of Bronze Logwood, 12 ozs. of Alum, for the Standard. For the Color, use 2 of Standard to 1 of Red Liquor and 3 of Gum Water. No. 43. LIGHT RED PURPLE. 1 of Standard, 1 of Red Liquor, and 6 of Gum W ater. No. 44. DARK ORANGE. 4 quarts of Caustic Pearlash, 8° Twaddell, 2J lbs. of Annotta, boil well, then 2 quarts of Water, boil again, then add 2 ozs. of Tartaric Acid, and 2 ozs. of Alum; thicken with 3 lbs. of British Gum. No. 45. LIGHT ORANGE. 1 of the above to 3 of Gum Water. No. 46. DARK OLIYE. 1 quart of Dark Purple Standard, No. 13, 1 quart of Bark and Fustic Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 1 pint of Blue, No. 15, 1 pint of Iron Liquor, 22° Twaddell, \ a noggin of Extract of Indigo, 4 quarts of Gum W ater. No. 47. LIGHT OLIYE. 1 of Dark Olive, No. 47, 4 of Gum Water, and 1 pint of Bark Liquor per gallon. 178 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 48. DARK CINNAMON BRONZE. 1 gallon of Cochineal Liquor, 4° Twaddell, 6 quarts of Persian Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 8 ozs. of Paste Extract of Indigo, mix very well, thicken with 5J lbs. of British Gum ; when off the fire add 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals, when nearly cold add 8 ozs. of Ox- alic Acid. No. 49. LIGHT CINNAMON BROWN. Add 1 of the above, No. 48, to 3 of Gum Water. No. 50. DARK YELLOW. 2 gallons of Persian Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals, boil well, thicken with 1 lb. of British Gum and 1 lb. of Flour; when off the fire, add 8 ozs. of Salt. No. 51. LIGHT YELLOW. 2 quarts of Gum Water, 1 quart of Bark Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 1 quart of Red Liquor, 18° Twaddell, 4 ozs. of Cream of Tartar. No. 52. ORANGE BROWN. 2 quarts of Red Archil, 4 gallons of Yellow Color. To make Yellow Color — 1 gallon of Persian Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddell, 12 ozs. of Alum, 1 gill of Oxy- Muriate of Tin, 4 quarts of thick Gum Water. No. 58. LIGHT ORANGE BROWN. 1 quart of Red Archil, 6 quarts of Yellow Color. No. 54. HOW TO MAKE BRONZE PEACHWOOD. 1 gallon of Peachwood Liquor, 8° Twaddell, 8 ozs. of Sal Ammoniac; when cold, add 1 pint of Sulphate of Copper SILK WARP PRINTING. 179 No. 55. BRONZE LOGWOOD. 1 gallon of Logwood, 8° T waddell, 8 ozs. of Sal Ammoniac ; when dissolved, add 1 pint of Copper Liquor. No. 56. COPPER LIQUOR. 1 gallon of Water, 4 lbs. of Sulphate of Copper, 4 lbs. of Sugar of Lead ; use only the clear Liquor. No. 57. ANNOTTA LIQUOR. 1 gallon of Caustic Potash, 5° Twaddell, 1 \ lb. of Annotta, and boil until dissolved. No. 58. COPPERAS BUFF. 1 gallon of Water, 4 lbs. of Copperas, 8 ozs. of Sugar of Lead ; use only the clear Liquor. No. 59. AMMONIACAL COCHINEAL. 2 lbs. of fine ground Cochineal, 5 pints of strong Ammonia, put in a close jar, and place it in a warm bath, or put it in a hot stove for 24 hours ; then add 2 gallons of Water and boil it down to two gallons, to which add 4 ozs. of Alum, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, and 4 ozs. of Tin Crystals. No. 60. EXTRACT OF INDIGO, FOR PRINTING. Add 3 lbs. of Paste Extract to 1 gallon of Water. No. 61. DARK PRUSSIATE LIQUOR. 2 gallons of Water, 8 lbs. of Prussiate, 8 lbs. of Tartaric Acid, and 1 noggin of Sulphate of Indigo. No. 62. SULPHATE OF INDIGO. • Add 1 lb. of good Indigo to 4 lbs. of Sulphuric Acid, (Oil of Vitriol.) - . - HOW TO SET COPPERAS VATS. HOW TO SET A COPPERAS YAT FOR DYEING COTTON WARPS AND HANKS. In a half pipe tub of cold water, add 12 lbs. of ground Tndigo; the Indigo must be ground in a barrel with water. To this add 12 lbs. of new slacked Lime and 24 lbs. of Cop- peras. Stir well a few times, and in the course of 24 hours it will be ready for use. This will be a good vat, and will dye a great quantity of Cotton. It will dye a very good shade of Blue by passing the Cotton once through, and darker shades by passing through again. When the vat is nearly worn out, add to it a few pounds of Copperas, and a pound or two of Potash, which will revive it again. By this means all the strength of the Indigo may be got out of it. Some Dyers use considerably more Copperas in the setting, but this is enough when very bright shades are required. HOW TO SET A COPPERAS YAT FOR PIECE DYEING. In a large vat add 20 lbs. of Indigo, well ground as before, 100 lbs. of Copperas, and 30 lbs. new slacked Lime. Stir well for half an hour until it has a Yellow Appearance, and in the course of 24 hours it will be ready for use. After working the vat for some length of time, add a little more Copperas. A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE DYEWARES MENTIONED IN THIS WORK. Alum. — This salt is prepared from certain clays containing pyrites. It is used very extensively in dyeing, in consequence 16 (181) 182 DYEWARES. of the attraction which Alumina has for coloring matter. It is used as a mordant or base for Mock Crimson, Maroon, Claret, Purple, &c., as maybe seen in the foregoing Receipts. However, in the dyeing of colors generally, Bichromate of Potass supersedes the use of Alum, being less injurious to the fabric, and giving a greater depth of color, and requiring smaller quantities of Dyewoods for the same shade. Alum is sometimes used after chroming, when the color is too full, being made lighter by adding a little. When the shade is too Blue, a little Alum will redden it. Annotta. — This is obtained from an American tree, called bixa orellana, and it is imported in the form of a paste, of a brick red color. It is soluble, or spent by Pearlash at boil- ing heat. It is used in dyeing various colors upon Cotton and Silks, viz: Buff, Salmon, Flat Yellow, Orange, and some Fawn shades of Drab. The colors may be raised by running in weak Nitric or Sulphuric Acid. Archil. — This is a Blue-red or Yiolet paste obtained from the Lichen rocella , grown in the South of France, and in the Canary Islands, where the best is produced. Alone it pro- duces a Ruby color, and a very light Violet by adding a little Ammonia, or other Alkalies. It reddens Indigo Blues, and combined with Logwood produces Purple. Ammonia. — Liquid Ammonia is generally distilled from Gas Liquor ; it is sometimes made from Ammoniacal salts and Lime, but the best for dyeing purposes is made from Urine. It is very much used by Dyers for the purpose of blueing Crimsons, Clarets, Purples, &c. It is also used in making Paste Cochineal. See Receipt No. 31, Worsted Yam Dyeing. Argol. — It is obtained from the juice of the grape, and is a crystallized incrustation generally found in Wine Casks. It becomes white when purified by solution and crystallization, and is then called Cream of Tartar. In dyeing, Argol com- bined with Alum, is generally used in the preparation or boil- ing of Mock Crimsons, Maroons, Clarets, and Purples. It is excellent in giving solidity to these and other colors. Being a weak Acid, it is the best for dyeing bright Greens, working well with Extract, Sulphate of Indigo and is not destructive to Fustic. It is frequently used in dyeing the Spirit colors, as Scarlet, Orange, and Grain Crimson : but Cream of Tartar is preferable for Yellows, Pinks, Salmons, and other light Spirit colors. DYEWARES. 183 Super Argol. — It is made from Sal enixen, or Sulphate of Soda, and sometimes from common Salt-cake. As an Acid, it is used for dyeing Drabs, and Greens when Turmeric is used instead of Fustic. Also for Olives and Browns. It is much cheaper than either Argol or Brown Tartar, and in some cases is preferable. Camwood. — This is a dark red Wood, containing strong coloring matter which is of a permanent nature, and is gene- rally used for dyeing Browns and Olives upon Worsted Goods. It is most soluble in Sulphuric Acid diluted with water. In the dyeing of Woollens, it is sometimes employed as a substi- tute for Red Sanders, producing a more fiery appearance in Browns of light and middle shades. Catechu. — Catechu is an extract from the heart-wood of the Khair Tree of the East Indies. The coloring matter is some- times extracted by Sulphate of Copper, and sometimes by Nitrate of Copper ; but Bichromate of Potass is a more efficient extractor of this color. It is used in dyeing Cotton a variety of shades, varying from a light Drab to a dark Brown. Cochineal. — Is a small Mexican Insect containing strong coloring matter, very permanent. It is used in dyeing Pinks, Rose colors, Oranges, Scarlets, and Crimsons. The mode of extracting the coloring matter is by means of Nitrate of Tin and Muriate of Tin ; Oxalic Tin gives the brightest color. These Acids for bright shades are combined with White or Brown Tartar. Chrome, or Bichromate of Potass. — This is a red orange Crystal, and is of very great use as a mordant in dyeing Blacks and other dark colors upon Worsteds and Woollen Goods, giving greater permanence than any other mordant previously employed. Its excellent properties, in this respect, have only of late been appreciated, and it is now becoming generally used. The Author of this work unhesitatingly affirms that he was the first person in the neighborhood of Halifax to dye colors from Bichromate of Potass. It effects a great saving of time and expense, &c. Cudbear. (See Archil.) — Cudbear is a dry powder, of a fine Blue-red color, and will dye a Ruby itself, either upon Silk Worsted or Woollen ; a Violet with a little Logwood; a Pur- ple or Adelaide, by previously undergoing the Chroming pro- cess. See Receipts Nos. 6 and 7, Orleans from Black Warps, 184 DYE WARES. It is used in dyeing Lavenders, Drabs, and various other shades for the red part of the color. Cbemic, or Sulphate of Indigo. — This is blue paste pre- pared from Indigo, and contains more of it in solution than any other preparation of it whatever. For Dye purposes it is thus made : Put into a Stone Jar 36 lbs. of Sulphuric Acid, to which add 12 lbs. of ground Indigo gradually, stir well for 1 hour. After standing a few hours it will be fit for use. This Chemic is much cheaper than Extract of Indigo for dyeing some colors, as Greens, Olives, and Browns. Ex- tracts of Indigo are only modifications of this Chemic, being partly neutralized and filtered. French Berry, or Persian Berry. — This is the fruit of the Bhamnus Infectorius. They yield a bright Yellow coloring matter, which is employed in dyeing light Yellow shades upon Cotton ; also for light Greens, with either Extract of Indigo or Prussiate of Potass. They also give the Fawn shade to Drabs. Combined with Alum, or Crystals of Tin, a fine Golden Yellow is obtained. Fustic, or Young Fustic. — The best Old Fustic is imported from Cuba, and yields a permanent Yellow coloring matter when combined with Alum and Argol in dyeing various shades of Greens. See Receipts Nos. 12 and 13, Colored Merinos; also used after Chroming for Olives of different shades ; see Receipt No. 7, Orleans from Black Warps, &c. Young Fustic is chiefly used in dying Yellows, Oranges, and Scarlets. See Receipts from 8 to 11, Colored Orleans. It gives a bright Yel- low when combined with Nitrate, Muriate, or Oxalic Tin, the last being the most effectual. Galls. — The Gall-nut is chiefly imported from Aleppo. It yields an astringent Black coloring matter when combined with Copperas and Logwood ; and is generally employed in dye- ing Silver Drabs upon Cotton, when combined with Nitrate of Iron. As a Dyeware, it gives greater solidity than Sumac for those light shades. V clones have nearly the same pro- perties. Indigo. — It is produced from the leaves of Indigo/era, a plant cultivated in South America, East Indies, &c. It is a very permanent coloring matter, employed in dyeing the ma- jority of colors, varying from a Drab to an Indigo Blue. The color produced by it is rften imitated by dyeing with Log- DYEWARES. 185 wood, Worsted and Woollens which have previously under- gone the Chroming process. See Receipt No. 32, Worsted Yarn Dyeing, Kermes, or Lac Dye. — It is obtained from an insect depo- sited on different species of Trees in the East Indies and other places. It contains red coloring matter, very like that of Cochineal, and is frequently used as a substitute for it, being thought by some Chemists to possess more permanence. It dyes good Scarlets along with Nitrate of Tin, or Oxalic Tin, and Tartar. This Dye is much cheaper than Cochineal, and the difference of color is only slightly perceptible. See Receipts Nos. 10 and 11. Logwood.— This is a Dark Red Dyewood, and is much em- ployed in Dyeing Black upon Silk, Cotton, and Woollen ; also for Blues and many other colors. Logwood, on first being in- troduced into England, was denounced by the cultivators of the native Woad, and even prohibited in England by Queen Elizabeth. All imported was to be destroyed ; nor was it allowed to be used till the reign of Charles the Second. Madder. — This is obtained from the root of the Rubia Tinc- torum , which grows wild in the South of Europe, &c. It is an article of great importance in dyeing. Madder possesses five distinct coloring principles, viz., madder red, madder pur- ple, madder orange, madder yellow, and madder brown. These colors are of most use to Calico Printers. It is also used by Dyers to deaden Drabs ; and with Acids, &c., to dye many shades of Drabs. See Receipts Nos. 37 and 38, Colored Me- rinos. Nitric Acid, or Aqua Fortis. — This Spirit is much used in dyeing. It is made from Nitrate of Potass, or Nitrate of Soda, and Sulphuric Acid. It will dye Silk yellow of itself, but is generally killed with Tin for Worsted and Woollens. Nitrates. — Nitrate of Tin is Aqua Fortis killed with Tin, which is used in dyeing Yellows, Buffs, Scarlets, and Crimsons, upon Worsted and Woollen Goods. See Receipt No. 47, Wor- sted Yarns. Nitrate of Iron is Aqua Fortis killed with Iron, or Copperas. It is used for dyeing Buffs upon Cotton, and as a mordant or preparation for other colors. Nitrate of Copper is Aqua Fortis killed with Copper, which is very useful for spending Catechu, combined with Sulphate of Copper. 186 DYEWARES. Oxalic Tin. — This is a most valuable Spirit for dying all grain colors, brighter colors being obtained by it than by either Nitrate of Tin or Muriate of Tin. It it the best de- stroyer of Gum, sometimes found in Lac, and which is very injurious in dyeing. In Woollens it is very penetrating, dye- ing the piece through, however strong, without leaving any white appearance. As yet, it is only partially known by the Dyers, but much approved by those who have tested its ex- cellency. Peachwood. — This is used for dyeing Mock Crimsons, Ma- roons, and Clarets, upon Worsted, Woollen, and Cotton Goods, as may be seen from many of the Receipts in this book. It dyes very bright colors after a preparation of Alum, and darker shades of the same colors after a preparation of Chrome. Prussiate of Potass. — This is made from Pearlash and animal substances, as horns and hoofs ; it is very extensively used by Dyers for dyeing Prussian Blues, varying from a Sky to a Royal Blue upon Cotton Fabrics. The Bright Victoria Blue is obtained from Prussiate as follows : First rinse the Yarns or Warps in a solution of Nitrate of Iron and a few Crystals of Tin ; then rinse in a solution of Prussiate. The best mode, however, is by first rinsing in Muriate of Tin, di- luted with Water; then in a decoction of Logwood, after which, let- them pass through the first process above described, with less Prussiate. This mode will produce a more bloomy color than that obtained by the first mode. Quercitron Bark. — This is obtained from the Yellow Oak ( quercus negra.) growing in North America. It furnishes an excellent Yellow color. Alum and Muriate of Tin are the principal mordants employed in dyeing Woollen and Cotton, but Oxalic Tin is the most efficient. It produces excellent Drabs upon Cotton with Nitrate of Iron. Safflower. — The flowers of the Carthamus Tindorius, grown chiefly in Spain, contain two coloring matters, yellow and red ; the yellow is carried off by well washing in water until the flowers assume a bright crimson appearance ; the red coloring matter is extracted by steeping in Pearlash and water, with occasional stirring ; the liquor is then pressed from the flower, and is ready for dyeing Pink upon Cotton fabrics combined with a little Tartaric or Sulphuric Acid. There is also a decoction of Safflower, which is sold in bot- tles. See Receipt No. 1, Shot Cobourgs. EXAMINATION OF WATER. 187 Saunders, or Red Sandal. — This is the wood of the Ptero- carpus santalznus, grown in India. It possesses deep red coloring matter, and is used chiefly in dyeing Woollen Goods. It is more permanent than Peachwood, though not of so bright a color. Sapan Wood. — This wood produces a red color, similar to that obtained from Peachwood, but it is not so much used for dyeing purposes. It is generally sold in the liquid state, and is used in Padding and Printing. See Receipt No. 2, Art of Padding. Sumac. — This astringent vegetable production is extensively used, chiefly for Cotton dyeing. It is used as the base of many colors. The best is that imported from Sicily, It has great affinity for Iron, which, when combined with Sumac in certain proportions, imparts to Cotton a variety of shades from Sil- ver Drab to Black. Turmeric. — This is the root of a plant cultivated in the East Indies, and contains much yellow coloring matter. It is frequently used instead of Fustic, but is not so permanent. EXAMINATION OF WATER BY TESTS, OR RE-AGENTS. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER BE HARD OR SOFT. Procure a small quantity of Soap dissolved in Alcohol, and let a few drops of it fall into a glass of the water to be tried. If the water becomes milky it is hard ; but if little or no milki- ness takes place, the water may be said to be soft. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN AN ACID. Take a piece of paper, containing no sizing, and which has been previously stained with Litmus, Syrup of Violets, or scrapings of Radishes, and immerse it in the water to be ex- amined ; if the paper becomes red, it contains an Acid. If a little lime-water be added to the same water, and a precipitate takes place, it is Carbonic Acid. If dark blue paper, such as 188 EXAMINATION OF WATER. is wrapped round loaves of sugar, be converted to red, it con- tains a Mineral Acid. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAINS ALKALI OR AN EARTH. Take a piece of paper which has been stained with an infu- sion of Litmus, and reddened by vinegar, and immerse it in water ; if the blue color of the paper be restored, it neither contains an alkali or an earth. If a little of the Syrup of Violets be added to the water which contains an alkali or an earth, the water will become Green. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN IRON. Take a glass of water and add to it a few drops of the infu- sion of Nutgalls, or suspend a Nutgall in it, by means of a thread, for 24 hours ; if Iron be present, the water will be- come of a dark Brown or Black color. Prussiate of Potash is a still more delicate test for detecting Iron. If a Crystal, or a drop of it when dissolved, be added to a glass of water containing Iron, it will immediately be- come of a Blue color. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN ANY SUBSTANCE COMBINED WITH MURIATIC ACID. Take a glass of water and let a few drops of Nitrate of Sil- ver fall into it ; if a milkiness be produced, which disappears on the addition of a little Liquid Ammonia, it may be con- cluded that some salt with Muriatic Acid is present. Muriate of Lime, Muriate of Soda (common salt), and Muriate of Magnesia, are the salts most generally to be met with in spring water. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN MAGNESIA. Take a quantity of the water, and boil down to a twentieth part of its bulk, then drop a few grains of Carbonate of Am- monia into a small glass of water. No Magnesia will yet be precipitated ; but on adding a small quantity of Phosphate of Soda, if any Magnesia be present, it will then make its ap- pearance, and fall to the bottom of the glass. Observation. — In this experiment, it is necessary that the Carbonate of Am- monia be in a neutral state. EXAMINATION OF WATER. 189 TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN PURE LIME. Into a glass of the water drop a Crystal or two of Oxalic Acid ; if a precipitate takes place, and if another glass of the same water becomes milky upon blowing air from the lungs into it through a quill, the presence of pure Lime, or Barytes, may be inferred : but Barytes has never yet been found pure in water. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN CARBONIC ACID. Take a quantity of the water, and add to it an equal quan tity of perfectly transparent lime water. If Carbonic Acid be present, either free or combined, a precipitate immediately appears, which on adding a few drops of Muriatic Acid will again be dissolved with effervescence. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN ANY COM- BINATION OF SULPHUR. Put a little Quicksilver into a phial of water, cork it, and let it stand for a few hours. If the surface of the quicksilver has acquired a black appearance, and a blackish powder sepa- rates from it on shaking the phial, the presence of Sulphur may be inferred. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN LEAD. To a little of the water in a glass add an equal portion of water impregnated with Sulphuretted Gas. If Lead be pre- sent, it will be known by the color of the water, which will assume a dark Brown or blackish tinge. Observation. — Lead may be also detected by adding a little Sulphuret of Ammonia or Potash. A similar effect will take place as in the last ex- periment, if lead be present. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN COPPER. Immerse a polished plate of Iron in the water to be exam- ined, and let it remain in a few minutes. If Copper be present, the plate of Iron will be coated over with Copper. Observation. — A few drops of Liquid Ammonia will turn any water containing Copper to a deep blue color. 190 EXPLANATION OF TERMS. EXPLANATION OF TERMS, ETC. A Tut is equal to about ^ of a Pint. A Pailful will amount to about 3 or 4 Gallons. Dishful . — Instead of using this term, 10 lbs. has been sub- stituted in the course of this work. Where it is said Worsted dye, with a certain quantity of wares, it means that the Worsted must be dyed before the Cotton, and the Cotton afterwards. When it is said Sumac , it means that the Pieces must be run in Sumac Liquor, prepared in the following manner : — boil up about 100 lbs. in the bottom of a Cistern, stir it up well for about 15 minutes, and then add sufficient cold water ; this will be about sufficient for 80 Pieces ; the first 40 to be turned on about half an hour, the latter to be turned on about an hour, or to be steeped in the liquor for the same length of time. After about 80 Pieces have been prepared, the liquor will still retain some strength, and by adding a little more Sumac, either boiled or dry, the Liquor will then prepare 80 Pieces more, by being steeped in all night, and draining out all the strength. Less Sumac will be required when a considerable quantity of Pieces are prepared, but not less than 2 lbs. to a Piece will prepare 10 at once. But where a Sumac Vessel is continually used, the better way is to boil up a quan- tity of Sumac at once in a separate vessel, and replenish as occasion may require. Some Dyers prefer a mere effusion of Sumac in cold water. When it is said Iron , it means to run the Pieces in diluted Nitrate of Iron. When a vessel is first used, a little more Iron is required than is stated in some of the Receipts for White Warped Orleans and Cobourgs; but no more than is stated after the vessel is seasoned ; for the more Iron is used, the Blacker appearance the Pieces will have. Where the least Iron can be used the clearer the Pieces will appear. It is not advisable to work the same Liquor more than a few days, wherever Sumaced Pieces are being continually run in it, for it frequently precipitates the Iron and Sumac together, forming a sort of paste of a blubber appearance, which leaves streaks and stains in the Pieces which cannot be seen in the EXPLANATION OF TERMS. ' 191 Ironed state. I have had Pieces dried after being Ironed, to prove how the stains were produced, and I have found them to have been produced in the Ironing process. Some Dyers, not properly understanding the nature of the article, use pail- ful after pailful of Nitrate of Iron, where one-fourth of the quantity would do much better. It has a great affinity for Sumac, and as soon as it comes in contact with it, it produces a dark slate or thin black color ; by adding a portion of Log- wood a Black is formed. Sometimes the Nitrate of Iron may not be sufficiently killed, or has not sufficient Iron in it. When this is the case, it will destroy the Sumac, and leave the Cotton a thin Drab, instead of a thin Black, and it will not take Logwood for Black ; and if the warp be for a Brown or Claret, the Piece has to be Cotton dyed again ; the effect of which is seldom seen until the pieces are dyed, which, if Cotton dyed in this manner, are never so handsome. To Spirit means to run, or prepare, say 10 Pieces, in about 1 Quart of Muriate of Tin, diluted with water, in a Cistern which will hold the Pieces conveniently, and turned on about 8 ends ; 20 or 30 Pieces may be Spirited by adding half a pint more Spirits. Some Dyers prefer Spiriting and Ironing in Troughs made for the purpose, and this plan is certainly more expeditious, and does not require so much Spirit. I INDEX PAGE Acetate of copper, to make 165 Acid, nitric 185 Acid, to detect in water 187 Adelaide from black warp, silk stripe 138 Adelaide, merinos 154 Adelaide, Orleans 142 Adelaide, Orleans and Cobourgs 145 Aqua fortis 185 Alkali, to detect in water 188 Alum 181 Amber, for printing 172 Amber, gold lists 87 Ammonia 182 Ammoniacal cochineal, for printing. 179 Annotta 182 Annotta, how to spend 49 Annotta liquor, for printing 179 Apple green for woollen yarn 73 Apple green for worsted yarn 79, 80 Apple green, merinos 152 Apple green, Orleans and Cobourgs. 145 Apricot, for printing 176, 177 Archil 182 Argol 182 Art of padding 160 Ash drab, camlets 120 Ash drab, lastings 125 Bark yellow, for cotton 44 Bark yellow, for silk 51 Barwood red, for cotton 40 Berry, French, 184 Persian, 184 Bichromate of potass 183 Bixa, orellana 182 Black camlets 123 Black and crimson, shot Cobourgs... 134 Black, damask 102 Black, blue for woollen yarn 73 Black, flushing.... 89 Black, for cotton 42, 43 Black, for silk , 55, 59 Black, for wool 19, 20 Black, for worsted yarn 82 17 Black, lastings ; 128 Black, merinos 156 Black, moreens 106 Black, Orleans 143 Black, Orleans and Cobourgs 149 Black to stand boiling and scouring 42 Black warp, Adelaide for silk stripe 138 Black warp, claret for, silk stripe... 137 Black warp, mulberry for, silk stripe 138 Black warp, olive for, silk stripe 136 Black warps, colored Orleans 141 Blacks, for silk 66 Blacks, for printing 171 Black, to pad 165 Bleaching cotton 48 Bloom pink standard 164 Bloomy royal blue, shawls 157 Blue black, for silk 55 Blue black, camlets 123 Blue black, lastings 128 Blue black, merinos 156 Blue black, Orleans 143 Blue black, for wool 20 Blue black, for woollen yarn 73 Blue black, for worsted yarn 82 Blue, camlets 121, 123 Blue claret, Orleans 142 Blue and coffee, damask 117 Blue, crane for wool 22 Blue and crimson, damask 114, 115 Blue and crimson, shot Cobourgs.... 132 Blue, damask 98, 99 Blue, for cotton 36, 43 Blue, for printing 173, 174 Blue, for silk 53, 54 Blue, for woollen yarn 73, 74 Blue, for worsted yarn 77, 83 Blue, lastings 126 129 Blue lavender, for woollen yarn 74 Blue, light for wool 19 Blue, liquid, flushings 92 Blue, logwood, for wool 19 Blue, logwood, Bockins 92 Blue, logwood, woollen cloths 93 193 194 INDEX, PAGE Blue, merinos 150, 155 Blue, moreens .' 103, 109 Blue, Napoleon 67 Blue, Napoleon, for cotton 47 Blue, Orleans and Cobourgs 149 Blue and orange, damask 115, 117 Blue and orange, shot Cobourgs 131 Blue and pink, damask 114 Blue and pink, shot Cobourgs.. ..131, 135 Blue purple, for cotton 46 Blue and rose, damasks 114 Blue, royal 170 Blue, royal, cloth 88 Blue royal, for cotton 47 Blue royal, for wool 29 Blue royal, longwools 88 Blue royal, serges 88 Blue, royal, for woollen yarn 73 Blue, royal, orange lists 88 Blue, royal, standard 164 Blue and ruby, damask 116 Blue and ruby, shot Cobourgs 132 Blue Saxon, for cotton 48 Blue, Saxony, for wool 30 Blue and scarlet, damask 117 Blue, shawls .’ 159 Blue, sky 169 Blue, sky for wool 30 Blue, sky, orange lists 87 Blue, slate color, for wool 22 Blue standard 164, 168 Blue, Victoria for cotton 47 Blue and yellow, damask 117 Blue and yellow, shot Cobourgs 131 Blues, from extract, for silk 53 Blues, from prussiate, for silk 53 Bockins, claret.. 91 Bockins, logwood blue 92 Bockins, maroon 93 Bockins, peachwood red 90 Bockins, salmon 85 Bockins, scarlet 84 Bockins, yellow 87 Bottle green, chromed for wool 27 Bottle green, for silk 61 Bottle green, for woollen yarn 72 Bottle green, for worsted yarn 78, 80 Bottle green, lastings 127 Bottle green, merinos 152 Bright royal blue, for cotton 47 Bright vicuna, for woollen yarn 69 Broad cloths, crimson 87 Broad cloths, dark green 90 Bronze drabs, for silk 64 Bronze logwood, for printing 179 Bronze, for printing 178 Bronze peachwood, to make 178 Brown, camlets 121, 122 Brown, chromed purple warp, silk stripe 137 Brown, claret, Honley’s 89 Brown, damask 100, 102 PAGE Brown, for cotton 33, 34, 39, 40 Brown, for printing....,, 172, 173, 178 Brown, for silk 55, 56, 57 Brown, for wool 25, 26, 28 Brown, for woollen yarn.69, 70, 71, 75, 76 Brown, for worsted yarn 81, 82, 83 Brown, lastings 127, 128 Brown, logwood 90 Brown, moreens 106, 107, 108 Brown, nut wool 91 Brown, olive from black warp, silk stripe 136 Brown, olive for woollen yarn 74 Brown, olive for worsted yarn 80 Brown, olive, ladies’ cloths 91 Brown, olive merinos 154 Brown, olive Orleans 142 Brown, olive Orleans and Cobourgs. 146 Brown, Orleans 141 Brown, Orleans and Cobourgs. ..144, 147 Brown, pilot cloths 89 Buff, damask 96 Buff, for cotton 31, 38 Buff, for silk 62 Buff, for woollen yarn 72 Buff, moreens 105 Buff, yellow shawls 159 California browns, for silk 56 California color, for wool 21 California color, for Woollen yarn.... 69 Camlet dyeing 119 Camlets, scarlet 119 Camwood 183 Canary color, for woof 30 Canary color, for worsted yarn 80 Carbonic acid, to detect in water 189 Carthamus tinctorius 186 Catechu 183 Catechu brown, for cotton 39, 40 Catechu, how to spend 48 Chemic 184 Chestnut, longwools 90 Chocolate, for silk 58 Chocolate, for woollen yarn 75 Chrome 183 Chrome, flushing 89 Chrome orange, for cotton 34 Chrome yellow, for cotton 34 Chromed brown, Orleans 141 Chromed brown, purple warp, silk stripe 137 Chromed claret, claret purple warp, silk stripe 137 Chromed claret, Orleans and Co- bourgs 145 Chromed green, for cotton 39 Chromed green, for wool 27 Chromed green, for woollen yarn.. 74, 75 Chromed green, ladies’ cloth 90 Chromed green, merinos 152 Chromed green, Orleans 143 INDEX, 195 PAGE Chromed invisible green, merinos.... 153 Chromed olive, for wool 24 Chromed purple, merinos 153 Cinnamon bronze, for printing 178 Cinnamon brown, damask 100 Cinnamon brown, for cotton 33 Cinnamon brown, for printing 178 Cinnamon brown, for woollen yarn.. 71 Cinnamon brown, for worsted yarn.. 82 Cinnamon brown, moreens 107, 108 Cinnamon brown, Orleans and Co- bourgs 144 Cinnamon, standard 167 Cinnamon, to pad 168 Claret, Bockins 91 Claret brown, claret warp, silk stripe 137, 138 Claret brown, for silk 56, 57 Claret brown, for woollen yarn 75, 76 Claret brown, for worsted yarn 81 Claret brown, Honley’s 89 Claret brown, lastings 128 Claret brown, Orleans 142 Claret druggets 92 Claret, for black warp, silk stripe... 137 Claret, for cotton 45 Claret for printing 171 Claret for purple warp, silk stripel27, 138 Clarets, for silk 58 Claret, for wool 28 Claret, for woollen yarn 70, 75, 76 Claret, for worsted yarn 7 8 Claret and green, shot Cobourgs 133 Claret, longwools 90 Claret, merinos 153, 154 Claret, Orleans 141, 142 Claret, Orleans and Cobourgs.144, 145, 147 Claret purple warp, chromed claret, silk stripe 137 Claret standard 165 Claret, to pad 165 Claret warp, claret brown, silk stripe 137, 138 Cloth, royal blue 88 Cloths, ladies’ purple 89 Cloths, pilot brown 89 Cobourgs, dyeing 131 Cochineal 183 Cochineal, ammoniacal, for printing 179 Cochineal paste 81 Coffee and blue, damask 117 Coffee brown, damask 102 Coffee brown, moreens 106 Coffee brown, merinos 154 Coffee brown, Orleans and Cobourgs 144 Colored, merinos 150 Colored Orleans and Cobourgs, from white warps 144 Colored Orleans, for black warps.... 141 Colors, standard, to make 160 Copper, acetate, to mak» 165 Copper liquor for pnnting 179 PAGE Copper, nitrate of. 185 Copper, to detect in water 189 Copperas buff, for printing 179 Copperas vats, how to set 181 Cotton dyeing 31 Crane blue, for wool 22 Crimson and black, shot Cobourgs... 134 Crimson and blue, damask 115 Crimson and blue, shot Cobourgs.... 132 Crimson, broad cloths 87 Crimson, camlets 120 Crimson, damask 95, 96, 101 Crimson and dark sky, 6hot Cobourgs 133 Crimson, druggets 92 Crimsons, for cotton 44 Crimson, for printing 176 Crimson, for silk 52, 58 Crimson, for wool... 29 Crimson, for woollen yarn 72, 75 Crimson, for worsted yarn 78, 81 Crimson and green, damask 115 Crimson, lasting 126 Crimson and lavender, shot Co- bourgs 132 Crimson, moreens 105, 106, 109 Crimson, merinos 151 Crimson and olive, shot Cobourgs.... 134 Crimson, saved lists 86 Cudbear 183 Dahlia, for printing 174 Dahlia, for worsted yarn 79 Damask dyeing 94 Dark blue, for woollen yarn 73 Dark brown, for wool 28 Dark brown, for worsted yarn 83 Dark brown, pilot cloth 89 Dark catechu brown, for cotton 40 Dark chocolate, for woollen yarn 75 Dark claret, for woollen yarn 75, 76 Dark dove, standard 163 Dark fawn drab, for wool 21 Dark green, for wool 18 Dark and light orange, damask 116 Dark olive, for wool 24 Dark olive, for woollen yarn 74, 76 Dark olive, for worsted yarn 79 Dark purple, for woollen yarn 71 Dark red brown, for worsted yarn... 83 Dark sea green, for worsted yarn.... 79 Dark sky and crimson, shot Co- bourgs 133 Dark vicuna, for worsted yarn 78 Darker brown, for wool 25 Darker claret, for wool 28 Darker green olive, for wool 24 Dark olive, for cotton 37 Dauuce black, for silk 59 Dishful 190 Dove color, for woollen yarn 74 Dove color, for worsted yarn 83 Dove, gold lists 87 196 INDEX, PAGE Dove, standard .. 163 Drab, camlets 120 Drab, damask 101 Drab, flushings 91 Drab, for cotton 35, 36, 37, 41, 42 Drab, for printing 174 Drab, for silk 63, 64 Drab, for wool 17, 19, 21, 22, 23 Drab, for woollen yarn 69, 70, 71, 74 Drab, for worsted yarn 78, 82 Drab, lastings..... 125, 126 Drab, merinos 155, 156 Drab, moreens 107 Drab, Orleans and Cobourgs 147, 148 Drab preparation 169 Drab standard 162, 163, 166, 167 Drab, to pad 169 Druggets, crimson , 92 Druggets, claret 92 Dyeing camlet 119 Dyeing, cotton 31 Dyeing, damask 94 Dyeing, lasting 125 Dyeing, moreen 103 Dyeing, shot Cobourgs 131 Dyeing, silk stripe 136 Dyeing, wool 17 Dyeing, woollen 84 Dyeing, woollen shawls 157 Dyeing, woollen yarn 69 Dyeing, worsted yarn 77 Dyewares 181 Earth, to detect in water 188 Estariazer, standard 162 Estariazer, to pad 167 Examination of water 187 Explanation of terms 190 Extract, blues from, for silk 53 Extract green, for cotton 38 Extract of indigo, for printing 179 Fancy bloom, for wool 17, 22 Fast blue black, for wool 20 Fast green, for cotton 39 Fast lavender, for cotton 43 Fast purple, for cotton 43 Fawn, damask 100 Fawn drab, camlets 120 Fawn drab, flushings 91 Fawn drab, for cotton 42 Fawn drab, for silk 63 Fawn drab, for wool 21 Fawn drab, for woollen yarn 74 Fawn drab, for worsted yarn 82 Fawn drab, lastings 126 Fawn drab, standard 164 Fawn, for printing 174 Fawn, moreens 107 Fine claret, for wool 28 Fine red lavender, for w x>l 23 Flat drab, for silk., 63 PAGE Flat royal blue, for cotton..... 47 Flesh color, for cotton 32 Flesh color, for silk 62 Flesh color and scarlet, damasks 112 Flushing, black 89 Flushings, chrome 89 Flushings, fawn drab 91 Flushings, logwood blue 92 Flushings, mule drab 91 Flushings, stone drab 91 French berry 184 French blue, for silk 54 French white, for silk 65 Full black, for woollen yarn 73 Full drab, merinos 156 Full pink, for wool 28 Full purple for cloth 46 Full red brown, for woollen yarn.... 76 Full yellow, for wool 29 Fustic 184 Galls 184 Gold color, for silk 62 Gold color, orange lists 86 Gold lists 89 Gold lists, dove 87 Gold lists, orange 85 Gold lists, yellow or amber 87 Grain crimson, for silk 52 Grain crimson, for wool 29 Grain crimson, for woollen yarn 72 Grain crimson, for worsted yarn 81 Grain crimson, lastings 126 Grain maroon, woollen yarn 75 Grain pinks, for silk 66 Grain rose for woollen yarn 72 Grain rose, longwools 86 Grain rose, orange lists 86 Grain scarlet, damask 97 Grain scarlet, for silk 53 Grain scarlet, for wool 29 Grain scarlet, for worsted yarn 83 Grain scarlet, moreens 104 Gray, standard 163 Green, broad cloth 90 Green, camlets 1*24 Green chromed, ladies’ cloth 90 Green and claret, shot Cobourgs 133 Green and crimson, damask 115 Green damask 99, 100, 102 Green, dark for wool 18 Green, for cotton 38, 39 Green, for silk 60, 61 Green, for printing 171, 175 Green for white warp, silk stripe.... 139 Green, for wool 26, 27 Green, for woollen yarn.69,70, 71, 72, 73, Green, for worsted yarn 78, 79, 80 Green, lastings 127 Green, light for wool 18 Green, longwools 89, 90 INDEX. 197 PAGE Green maroon, for worsted yarn 78 Green, merinos 152 Green, moreens 106, 108 Green olive, for wool 24 Green olive, for worsted yarn........79, 80 Green olive, merinos 154 Green olive, Orleans 142 Green olive, Orleans and Cobourgs.. 146 Green and orange, shot Cobourgs.... 135 Green, Orleans 143 Green, Orleans and Cobourgs.145, 146, 147 Green and pink, damasks 113 Green and pink, shot Cobourgs...l32, 133 Green and purple, shot Cobourgs... 133 Green and salmon, damasks 113 Green and salmon, shot Cobourgs.... 133 Green, serges 87 Green standard 168 Green and yellow, damasks 113 Greener olive, for wool 23 Handkerchief printing 171 Hard water 187 Heavy brown, for woollen yarn 75 Heavy drabs, for silk 63 Heavy drab, for wool 17 Honley’s narrow claret brown 89 How to spend annotta 49 How to spend catechu 48 How to spend safflower 49 How to spend turmeric 40 Imitating indigo blue, for worsted yarn 81 Imitating turkey red, for cotton 41 Indigo 184 Indigo blue, for worsted yarn 81 Indigo, extract for printing 179 Indigofera 184 Indigo, sulphate of. 164, 181 Indigo, sulphate of, for printing 179 Invisible green, chromed for wool... 27 Invisible green, for woollen yarn 73 Invisible green, for worsted yarn 80 Invisible green, merinos 152 Invisible green, Orleans 143 Invisible green Orleans and Cobourgs 146 Iron 190 Iron, nitrate of. 185 Iron, to detect in water 188 Kermes 185 Khair tree 183 Knot green, for worsted yarn 79 Lac dye 185 Lac scarlet, damask 97 Lac scarlet, for wool 28 Lac scarlet, moreens 104 Ladies’ cloths, brown olive 91 Ladies’ cloths, chromed green 90 Ladies’ cloths, purple 89 PAGE Lasting dyeing 125 Lavender 187 Lavender blue, for woollen yarn 74 Lavender and crimson, shot Cobourgs 132 Lavender drab, Orleans and Co- bourgs 148 Lavender, for cotton 36, 43 Lavender, for printing 175 Lavender, for silk 50 Lavender for woollen yarn 70 Lavender, for worsted yarn 82 Lavender for white warp, silk stripe 139 Lavender, merinos 155 Lavender and pink, shot Cobourgs... 132 Lavender red, for wool 23 Lavender, shawls 159 Lavender, standard 164, 168 Lavender, to pad 169 Lead, to detect in water 189 Lichen rocella 182 Light blue, for wool 19 Light brown, for wool 25 Light brown, for worsted yarn 81 Light buff, for cotton 38 Light catechu brown, for cotton 39 Light drab, for cotton 36 Light drab, for wool 22, 23 Light dove, standard 163 Light extract green, for cotton 38 Light fiery brown, for woollen yarn 69 Light green, for wool 18, 26 Light olive, for cotton 37 Light olive, for wool 23 Light olive, for woollen yarn 73 Light pink, for cotton 33 Light puce, for worsted yarn 82 Light rose, orange lists 86 Light vicuna, for worsted yarn 78 Lilac 166 Lilac, for cotton 36 Lilac, for worsted yarn 82 Lime, to detect in water 189 Logwood 185 Logwood blue, Bockins 92 Logwood blue for wool 19 Logwood blue, flushings 92 Logwood blue, woollen cloths 93 Logwood, bronze, for printing 179 Longwools, chestnut brown 90 Longwools, claret brown 90 Longwools, grain rose 86 Longwools, grain scarlet 84 Longwools, green 89, 90 Longwools, lac scarlet 85 Longwools, rose 86 Longwools, royal blue 88 Madder 185 Madder drab, for wool 21, 22 Madder drab, merinos 155 Madder drab, Orleans and Cobourgs 148 Magnesia, to detect in water 188 193 INDEX. PACIE Maroon, Bockins 93 Maroon for cotton 45 Maroon, for printing 176 Maroon, for woollen yarn 71, 75 Maroon, for worsted yarn .*..,.78, 79 Maroon, merinos 153 Maroons, for silk 59 Mazarine blue, for silk 54 Maze, for printing 175 Melon, shawls 158 Merinos, colored 1 150 Middle brown, for wool 25 Middle green, for cotton 38 Middle green, for woollen yarn 70 Middle olive, for woollen yarn 70 Mulberry for black warp, 6ilk stripe 138 Mulberry, for wool 27 Mulberry, merinos 155 Mulberry, Orleans and Cobourgs 145 Mule drab, flushings 91 Muriatic acid, to detect in water 188 Mock crimson, damask 101 Mock crimson, for silk 58 Mock crimson, for woollen yarn 75 Mock crimson, for worsted yarn 78 Mock maroon, for worsted yarn 79 Mock scarlet, for silk 66 Moreen, camlets 121 Moreen dyeing 103 Maroon, lastings 127 Maroon, merinos 150 Moss green, for wool 26 Nankin, for cotton 31 Napoleon blue 67 Napoleon blue for cotton 47 Nitrates 185 Nitric acid 185 Nut brown, wool 91 Oak drab, for worsted yarn 78 Olive and crimson, shot Cobourgs.... 134 Olive, for cotton 37 Olive, for printing..-....'. 177 Olive, for silk 56, 59, 61 Olive, for wool 23, 24, 25 Olive, for woollen yarn 70, 73, 74, 76 Olive, for worsted yarn 79, 80 Olive from black warp, silk stripe... 136 Olive, merinos.. 154 Olive, Orleans... 142 Olive, Orleans and Cobourgs 146 Olive, standard 166 Olive, to pad 166 Orange and blue, damask 115, 117 Orange and blue, shot Cobourgs 131 Orange brown, for printing 178 Orange, camlets 119 Orange, damask 98 Orange, for cotton 34 Orange, for printing 172, 177 Orange, fur silk 52 PAGE Orange, for wool 30 Orange for woollen yarn 72 Orange, for worsted yarn 80 Orange, gold lists 85 Orange and green, shot Cobourgs.... 135 Orange lists, gold color 86 Orange lists, grain rose 89 Orange, lastings 126, 127 Orange lists, light rose 86 Orange lists, royal blue 88 Orange lists, salmon 85 Orange lists, scarlet 84 Orange lists, sky blue 87 Orange, merinos 151 Orange, moreens 103 Orange and purple, shot Cobourgs... 134 Orange, shawls 159 Orange, standard 166 Orleans colored, for black warps 141 Orleans, light brown 141 Orleans, silk stripe dyeing 136 Oxalic tin 186 Padding, art of. 160 Pailful 190 Paris black, for silk 66 Paste, cochineal * 81 Peach, for printing 172, 173 Peachwood 186 Peachwood, bronze, to make 178 Peachwood, pinks from, for silk 66 Peachwood red, Bockins 90 Peachwood red, for cotton 44 Pea gregn, for woollen yarn 69 Pea green, merinos 152 Persian berry 184 Pilot cloths, brown 89 Pink and blue, shot Cobourgs 131 Pink, cotton, and worsted damasks. 94 Pinks, for cotton 44 Pink, for printing 172 Pink, for wool 28 Pink, for woollen yarn 72 Pink, for worsted yarn 81 Pink, from Peachwood, for silk 66 Pink for white warp, silk stripe 140 Pink and green, damasks 113 Pink and green, shot Cobourgs. ..132, 133 Pink and lavender, shot Cobourgs... 152 Pink, light for cotton ., 33 Pink, merinos 151 Pink, moreens 110 Pink, Orleans and Cobourgs 148 Pink and royal blue, shot Cobourgs 135 Pink, safflower for dotton 32 Pink and scarlet, damask Ill Pink and sky blue, damasks 114 Pinks, from safflower, for silk 65 Pinks, grain for silk 16 Plum color, for cotton 45 Pontia, for printing ’. 176 Poppy red, for printing 173 INDEX. 199 PAGE Potass, bichromate of. 183 Potass, prussiate of 186 Printing, silk warp, skein and hand- kerchief 171 Prussiate, blues from, for silk 53 Prussiate liquor for printing 179 Prussiate of potass 186 Prussiate of tin 165 Pterocarpus santalinus 187 Puce, for worsted yarn 82 Purple blue, for cotton 46 Purple, camlets 122,123 Purple, dark standard 162 Purple, for cotton 43 Purple, for printing 173, 177 Purple, for silk 59 Purple, for woollen yarn 71 Purple, for worsted yarn 77 Purple and green, shot Cobourgs 133 Purple, ladies’ cloths 89 Purple, lastings 129, 130 Purple, merinos 153 Purple and orange, shot Cobourgs... 134 Purple warp, chromed brown, silk stripe 137 Purple warp, claret from silk stripe - 137, 138 Purple warp, red brown from silk stripe 136, 139 Quaker drab, standard 163 Quercitron bark 186 Quercus mgr a 186 Re-agents for water 187 Real Paris blacks, for silk 66 Receipts for padding 162 Red, Bockins..... 90 Red brown from purple warp, silk stripe 136, 139 Red brown, for silk 57 Red brown, for woollen yarn 76 Red brown, for worsted yarn 83 Red brown, merinos 154 Red brown, Orleans and Cobourgs.144, 147 Red brown standard 162 Red, cinnamon brown, for worsted yarn 82 Red claret, Orleans and Cobourgs... 147 Red crimson, moreens 109 Red drab, for woollen yarn 70 Red, for cotton 40, 41, 44 Red, for printing 172, 173 Red, for silk 56 Red lavender, for wool 23 Red lavender, for woollen yarn 70 Red lavender, merinos 155 Red purple, for worsted yarn 77 Red ruby, for printing 175 Red, sandal 187 Redder silver drab, for wool 22 Redder olive, for wool 24 PAGE Redder vicuna, for wool 23 Rhamntts infectorious 184 Rose color, moreens 109, 110 Rose, damask 95 Rose, for printing 176 Rose, for woollen yarn 72 Rose, for worsted yarn 81 Rose, grain, longwools 86 Rose, grain, orange lists 86 Rose, longwools 86 Rose, merinos 151 Rose, orange lists 86 Rose and Saxon blue, damasks 114 Rose and scarlet, damasks 112 Rose, shawls 158 Royal blue 170 Royal blue, camlets 123 ’ Royal blue, cloth 88 Royal blue, for cotton 47 Royal blue, for silk 54 Boyal blue, for wool 29 Royal blue, for woollen yarn 73 Royal blue, for worsted yarn 77 Royal blue, for white warp, silk stripe 139 Royal blue, lastings 129 Royal blue, longwools 88 Royal blue, merinos 150 Royal blue, orange lists 88 Royal blue, serges 88 Royal blue, shawls 157 Royal blue standard 164 Rubia tincloria 185 Ruby and blue, damask 116 Ruby and blue, shot Cobourgs 132 Ruby, for cotton 45 Ruby, for silk 59 Ruby, for woollen yarn ’. 70 Ruby, for worsted yarn 80 Ruby from violet warp, silk stripe.. 138 Ruby, merinos 153 Russian brown, for wool 28 Safflower 186 Safflower, how to spend 49 Safflower pink, for cotton 32 Safflower, pinks from, for silk 65 Sage drab, for wool 19 Sage drab, for woollen yarn 74 Sage drab, for worsted yarn 82 Sal-enixen 183 Salmon, Bockins 85 Salmon, damask 94 Salmon, for silk 62 Salmon, for woollen yarn 72 Salmon, for worsted yarn 83 Salmon and green, damasks 113 Salmon and green, shot Cobourgs.... 133 Salmon, merinos 151 Salmon, moreens 110 Salmon, orange lists 85 Salmon and scarlet, damasks 112 200 INDEX. PACE Salmon, shawls 158 Sapan wood 187 Saved lists, full red crimson 86 Saved lists, scarlet 84, 85 Saxon blue, camlets 121 Saxon blue, damasks 98 Saxon blue, for cotton 46 Saxon blue, for woollen yarn 74 Saxon blue, for worsted yarn 83 Saxon blue, lastings 126 Saxon blue, moreens 109 Saxony blue, for wool 30 Sea green, damask 102 Sea green, for woollen yarn 71 Sea green, for worsted yarn 79 Sea green, moreens 106 Sea green, Orleans and Cobourgs.... 148 Serges, scarlet 85 Serges, green 87 Serges, royal blue 88 Scarlet, Bockins 84 Scarlet and blue, damask 117 Scarlet, camlets 119 Scarlet, damask 97 Scarlet and flesh color, damasks 112 Scarlet, for cotton 83 Scarlet, for printing 171 Scarlet, for silk 53 Scarlet, for wool 28, 29 Scarlet, for woollen yarn 71 Scarlet, for worsted yarn 83 Scarlet grain, longwools 84 Scarlet, lastings 126 Scarlet, merinos 151, 152 Scarlet, mock for silk 66 Scarlet, moreens .. 104 Scarlet, orange lists 84 Scarlet and pink, damasks Ill Scarlet and rose, damasks 112 Scarlet and salmon, damasks 112 Scarlet, saved lists .84, 85 Scarlet, serges 85 Scarlet, shawls 159 Scarlet and yellow, damasks Ill Scarlet, yellow for cotton 40 Shawls, dyeing woollen 157 Shot Cobourg dyeing 131 Silk dyeing 50 Silk stripe dyeing 136 Silk warp printing 171 Silver drab, camlets 120 Silver drab, damask 101 Silver drab, for cotton 36, 41 Silver drab, for wool 22 Silver drab, for woollen yarn 69 Silver drab, lastings 125 Silver drab, merinos 156 Silver drab, moreens 107 Silver drab, Orleans and Cobourgs... 147 Skein printing 171 Sky blue 169 Sky blue, damask 98 PAOIE Sky blue, for cotton 43 Sky blue, for wool 30 Sky blue, for wdollen yarn 74 Sky blue, for worsted yarn 83 Sky blue, merinos 155 Sky blue, Orleans and Cobourgs 149 Sky blue, shawls .... 159 Sky blues from extract, for silk 53 Sky blues from prussiate, for silk.... 63 Slate color, for wool 17 Slate drab, for silk ; 63 Slate blue, for wool 22 Slate drab, for worsted yarn 82 Slate purple, for worsted yarn 77 Slate standard 163, 166 Slate standard, for printing 175 Slate, to pad 167 Snuff color, for worsted yarn 81 Soft water 187 Sour browns, for silk 57, 65 Spirit, to 191 Spirit, yellow, for silk 51 Spirits, for blue Napoleon 67 Spirits, for cotton dyeing, to make... 48 Standard colors, to make 160 Steeping 48 Stone drab 167 Stone drab, flushings... 91 Stone drab, Orleans and Cobourgs... 147 Stone drab standard 166 Straw color, damask 96 Straw color, for cotton 31, 32 Straw color, moreens 105 Sulphate of indigo 164, 184 Sulphate of indigo, for printing 179 Sulphur, to detect in water 189 Sumac 187 Sumac, how used 149 Sumac, to 190 Super Argol 183 Terms, explanation of. 190 Tests for water 187 Tin, nitrate of. 185 Tin, Oxalic 186 Tin, prussiate of. 165 Tot 190 True brown, for wool 26 True olive, for wool 25 Turkey red, for cotton 41 Turmeric 187 Turmeric, how to spend 49 Turmeric, yellow, for silk 51 Two colored damask dyeing Ill Yant color, for wool 25 Yats, copperas, how to set 181 Yery dark claret for woollen yarn... 76 Victoria blue, for cotton 47 Vicuna drab, for wool 23 Vicuna, for woollen yarn 69 Vicuna, for worsted yarn ... 78 INDEX, 201 PAGE Violet, for silk 60 Violet, for violet warp, silk stripe... 139 Violet, for wool 27 Violet, merinos 153 Violet, Orleans 142 Violet warp, ruby from, silk stripe.. 138 Violet warp, violet from, silk stripe. 139 Volones 184 Water, examination of. 187 White, cotton and worsted damasks. 94 White, damasks 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100 White, for silk 65 White warp, green from, silk stripe. 139 White warp, lavender from, silk stripe 139 White warp, pink from, silk stripe. 140 White warp, royal blue from, silk stripe 139 Wine color, for wool 29 Wine color, for woollen yarn 70 Wold yellow, for silk 51 Wood, sapan 187 Wool dyeing 17 Wool, nut brown 91 Woollen cloths, logwood blue 93 Woollen dyeing 84 Woollen shawl dyeing 157 Woollen yarn dyeing 69 PAGE Worsted dye Iy0 Worsted yarn dyeing 77 Yarn dyeing, woollen 69 Yarn dyeing, worsted 77 Yellow and blue, damask 117 Yellow and blue, shot Cobourgs 131 Yellow brown, for woollen yarn...70, 76 Yellow buff, shawls 159 Yellow, camlets 119, 120 Yellow, damask 97 Yellow drab, for cotton 37 Yellow, for cotton 34, 44 Yellow, fawn drab, for silk 63 Yellow, for silk 51 Yellow, for printing 178 Yellow, for wool 29 Yellow, for woollen yarn 72 Yellow, for worsted yarn 80 Yellow, gold lists 87 Yellow and green, damasks 113 Yellow, lastings 125 Yellow, little Bockins 87 Yellow, merinos 151 Yellow, moreens 104 Yellow and scarlet, damasks Ill Yellow, scarlet, for cotton 40 Yellow, shawls 158 Yellow, stone drab 167 . ■ CATALOGUE PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAiRD, INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, No- 406 WiALISTUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA. Any of the Books comprised in this Catalogue will be sent by mail, free of postage, at the publication price. JE3 3 * My New and Enlarged Catalogue, 82 pages 8vo., with full descriptions of Books, will be sent, free of postage, to any one who will favor me with his address. A RMENGAUD, AMOUROUX, AND JOHNSON.— THE PRACTICAL ^ DRAUGHTSMAN’S BOOK OF INDUSTRIAL DESIGN, AND MACHINIST’S AND ENGINEER’S DRAWING COMPANION: Forming a complete course of Mechanical Engineering and Architectural Drawing. From the French of M. Armengaud the elder, Prof, of Design in the Conservatoire of Arts and Industry, Paris, and MM. Armengaud the younger and Amou- roux, Civil Engineers. Rewritten and arranged, with addi- tional matter and plates, selections from and examples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism of the day. By William Johnson, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Editor of “The Practical Mechanic’s Journal.” Illustrated by 50 folio steel plates and 50 wood-cuts. A new edition, 4to. . $10 00 RLOT. — A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR COACH PAINTERS. Translated from the French of M. Arlot, Coach Painter; late Master Painter for eleven years with M. Ehrler, Coach Manufac- turer, Paris. With important American additions . . $1 25 A RROWSMITH.— PAPER-HANGER’S COMPANION : A Treatise in which the Practical Operations of the Trade are Systematically laid down: with Copious Directions Prepara- tory to PaperiDg; Preventives against the Effect of Damp on Walls; the Various Cements and Pastes adapted to the Seve- ral Purposes of the Trade ; Observations and Directions for the Panelling and Ornamenting of Rooms, &c. By James Arrowsmith. 12mo., cloth . . . . . $1 25 2 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. p A£RD. — THE AMERICAN COTTON SPINNER, AND MANA- n GER’S AND CARDER’S GUIDE : A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning; giving the Dimen- sions and Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist Calcula- tions, etc. ; with notices of recent Improvements : together with Rules and Examples for making changes in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. Compiled from the papers of the late Robert H. Baird. 12mo. . . . $1 50 g AKER.— LONG-SPAN RAILWAY BRIDGES : Comprising Investigations of the Comparative Theoretical and Practical Advantages of the various Adopted or Proposed Type Systems of Construction; with numerous Formulae and Ta- bles. By B. Baker. 12mo $2 00 TD AKEWELL. — A MANUAL OE ELECTRICITY— PRACTICAL AND D THEORETICAL : By F. C. Bakewell, Inventor of the Copying Telegraph. Se- cond Edition. Revised and enlarged. Illustrated by nume- rous engravings. 12mo. Cloth . . . . $2 00 "DEANS. — A TREATISE ON RAILROAD CURVES AND THE L0- * D CATION OF RAILROADS : By E. W. Beans, C. E. 12mo. (In press.) pLENKARN.— PRACTICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF WORKS EXE- D CUTED IN ARCHITECTURE, CIVIL AND MECHANICAL ENGINEERING, AND IN ROAD MAKING AND SEWER- ING: To which are added a series of practically “useful Agreements and Reports. By John Blenkarn. Illustrated by fifteen large folding plates. 8vo. $9 00 TjLINN.— A PRACTICAL WORKSHOP COMPANION FOR TIN, ^ SHEET-IRON, AND COPPER-PLATE WORKERS : Containing Rules for Describing various kinds of Patterns used by Tin, Sheet-iron, and Copper-plate Workers ; Practical Geometry ; Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids ; Tables of the Weight of Metals, Lead Pipe, etc.; Tables of Areas and Cir- cumferences of Circles; Japans, Varnishes, Lackers, Cements, Compositions, etc. etc. By Leroy J. Blinn, Master Me- chanic. With over One Hundred Illustrations. 12mo. $2 50 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 3 ID DOTH.— MARBLE WORKER’S MANUAL : Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in gene- ral, their Cutting, Working, and Polishing ; Veneering of Marble ; Mosaics ; Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, Stuccos, Cements, Receipts, Secrets, etc. etc. Translated from the French by M. L. Booth. With an Appendix con- cerning American Marbles. 12mo., cloth . . $1 50 B 3 ’ 0 ™ AND MORFIT.— THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMISTRY, PRACTICAL AND THEORETICAL : Embracing its application to the Arts, Metallurgy, Mineralogy, Geology, Medicine,, and Pharmacy. By James C. Booth, Melter and Refiner in the United States Mint, Professor of Applied Chemistry in the Franklin Institute, etc., assisted by Campbell Morfit, author of “Chemical Manipulations,” etc. Seventh edition. Complete in one volume, royal 8vo., 978 pages, with numerous wood-cuts and other illustrations. $5 00 D 3 WDITCH.— ANALYSIS, TECHNICAL VALUATION, PURIFI- D CATION, AND USE OF COAL GAS : By Rev. W. R. Bowditch. Illustrated with wood engrav- ings. 8vo. . . . . . . . . §6 50 T)0X.— PRACTICAL HYDRAULICS : A Series of Rules and Tables for the use of Engineers, etc. By Thomas Box. 12mo. $2 00 u CXMASTER. — TEE ELEMENTS OF MECHANICAL PHYSICS : By J. C. Buckmaster, late Student in the Government School of Mines ; Certified Teacher of Science by the Department of Science and Art ; Examiner in Chemistry and Physics in the Royal College of Preceptors ; and late Lecturer in Chemistry and Physics of the Royal Polytechnic Institute. Illustrated with numerous engravings. In one vol. 12mo. . $1 50 gULLOCK.— THE AMERICAN COTTAGE BUILDER : A Series of Designs, Plans, and Specifications, from $200 to to §20,000 for Homes for the People ; together with Warm- ing, Ventilation, Drainage, Painting, and Landscape Garden- ing. By John Bullock, Architect, Civil Engineer, Mechani- cian, and Editor of “ The B-udiments of Architecture and Building,” etc. Illustrated by 75 engravings. In one vol. 8vo. §8 59 B 4 IIENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. BULLOCK. — THE RUDIMENTS OF D BUILDING; ARCHITECTURE AND For the use of Architects, Builders, Draughtsmen, Machin- ists, Engineers, and Mechanics. Edited by John Bullock, author of “The American Cottage Builder.” Illustrated by 250 engravings. In one volume 8vo. . . . $8 50 pURGH — PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF LAND AND MA- JJ RINE ENGINES ; Showing in detail the Modern Improvements of High and Low Pressure, Surface Condensation, and Super-heating, together with Land and Marine Boilers. By N. P. Burgh, Engineer. Illustrated by twenty plates, double elephant folio, with text. $21 00 pURGH.— PRACTICAL RULES FOR THE PROPORTIONS OF D MODERN ENGINES AND BOILERS FOR LAND AND MA- RINE PURPOSES. By N. P. Burgh, Engineer. 12mo.’ ? . . $2 00 BURGH.— THE SLIDE-VALVE PRACTICALLY CONSIDERED : By N. P. Burgh, author of “ A Treatise on Sugar Machinery,” “ Practical Illustrations of Land and Marine Engines,” “ A Pocket-Book of Practical Rules for Designing Land and Ma- rine Engines, Boilers,” etc. etc. etc. Completely illustrated. 12mo. . . . ' . ^ ' . * ' . . . $2 00 lYRN.— THE COMPLETE PRACTICAL BREWER : Or, Plain, Accurate, and Thorough Instructions in the Art of Brewing Beer, Ale, Porter, including the Process of making Bavarian Beer, all the Small Beers, such as Root-beer, Ginger- pop, Sarsaparilla-beer, Mead, Spruce beer, etc. etc. Adapted to the use of Public Brewers and Private Families.^ By M. La. Fayette Byrn, M. D. With illustrations. 12mo. $1 25 RN. — THE COMPLETE PRACTICAL DISTILLER ; Comprising the most perfect and exact Theoretical and Prac- tical Description of the Art of Distillation and Rectification ; including all of the most recent improvements in distilling apparatus ; instructions for preparing spirits from the nume- rous vegetables, fruits, etc. ; directions for the distillation and preparation of all kinds of brandies and other spirits, spiritu- ous and other compounds, etc. etc. ; all of which is so simpli- fied that it is adapted not only to the use of extensive distil- lers, but for every fanner, or others who may wish to engage in the art of distilling By M. La Fayette Byrn, M. D. With numerous engravings. In one volume, 12mo. $1 50 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 5 DYRNE.— FOCXET BOOK FOR RAILROAD AND CIVIL ENCI- n NEERS ; Containing New, Exact, and Concise Methods for Laying out Railroad Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings; the Staking out of work; Levelling; the Calculation of Cut- tings ; Embankments ; Earth-work, etc. By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated, 18mo,, full bound . . . . . $1 75 DYRNE.— THE HANDBOOK FOR THE ARTISAN, MECHANIC, U AND ENGINEER : By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by 185 Wood Engravings. 8vo. For Engineering Students, based on the Principle of Work. By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by Numerous Wood Engrav- J5YRNE.— THE PRACTICAL METAL-WORKER’S ASSISTANT; Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry; the Arts of Working all Metals and Alloys ; Forging of Iron and Steel ; Hardening and Tempering ; Melting and Mixing ; Casting and Founding ; Works in Sheet Metal ; the Processes Dependent on the Ductility of the Metals ; Soldering ; and the most Improved Processes and Tools employed by Metal-Workers. With the Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to Manufactu- ring Processes ; collected from Original Sources, and from the Works of Holtzapffel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, and others. By Oliver Byrne. A New, Revised, and improved Edition, with Additions by John ScoflFern, M. B , William Clay, Wm. Fairbairn, F. R. S., and James Napier. With Five Hun- dred and Ninety-two Engravings ; Illustrating every Branch of the Subject. In one volume, 8vo. 652 pages . $7 00 ■DYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL MODEL CALCULATOR: For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne. 1 volume, 8vo., nearly 600 pages . . . . $4 50 •gEMROSE.— MANUAL OF WOOD CARVING : With Practical Il- lustrations for Learners of the Art, and Original and Selected de- signs. By William Bemrose, Jr. With an Introduction by Llewellyn Jewitt, F. S. A., etc. With 128 Illustrations. 4to., cloth $3 00 ings, 12mo, $3 63 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. pAIRD.— PROTECTION OF HOME LABOR AND HOME PRO- “ J SUCTIONS NECESSARY TO THE PROSPERITY OF THE AMERICAN FARMER: By Henry Carey Baird. 8vo., paper . . . 10 DAIRD.— THE RIGHTS OF AMERICAN PRODUCERS, AND THE n WRONGS OF BRITISH FREE TRADE REVENUE REFORM. By Henry Carey Baird. (1870) .... 5 "DAIRD.— SOME OF THE FALLACIES OF BRITISH-FREE-TRADE U REVENUE-REFORM. Two Letters to Prof. A. L. Perry, of Williams College, Mass. By Henry Carey Baird. (1871.) Paper .... 5 RD— STANDARD WAGES COMPUTING TABLES : An Improvement in all former Methods of Computation, so ar- ranged that wages for days, hours, or fractions of hours, at a spe- cified rate per day or hour, may he ascertained at a glance. By T. Spangler Baird. Oblong folio $5 00 pAUERMAN.— TREATISE ON THE METALLURGY OF IRON. Illustrated. 12mo $2 50 piCKNELL’.S VILLAGE BUILDER. 55 large plates. 4to B“ $10 00 •BISHOP.— A HISTORY OF AMERICAN MANUFACTURES : From 1608 to 1866 ; exhibiting the Origin and Growth of the Prin- cipal Mechanic Arts and Manufactures, from the Earliest Colonial Period to the Present Time ; By J. Leander Bishop, M. D., Ed- ward Young, and Edwin T. Freedley. Three vols. 8vo., half morocco , $12 00 pOX.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON HEAT AS APPLIED TO - 0 THE USEFUL ARTS : For the use of Engineers, Architects, etc. By Thomas Box, au- thor of “Practical Hydraulics.” Illustrated by 14 plates, con- taining 114 figures. 12mo. . . . . . . $4 25 QABINET MAKER’S ALBUM OF FURNITURE : Comprising a Collection of Designs for the Newest and Most Elegant Styles of Furniture. Illustrated by Forty-eight Large and Beautifully Engraved Plates. In one volume, oblong $5 00 flHAPMAN.— A TREATISE ON ROPE-MAKING : As practised in private and public Rope-yards, with a Description of the Manufacture, Rules, Tables of Weights, etc., adapted to the Trade ; Shipping, Mining, Railways, Builders, etc. By Robert Chapman. 24mo » . . . $1 50 U HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 7 IRAIK.— THE PRACTICAL AMERICAN MILLWRIGHT AND ’ MILLER. Comprising the Elementary Principles of Mechanics, Me- chanism, and Motive Power, Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors, Mill-dams, Saw Mills, Grist Mills, the Oat Meal Mill, the Barley Mill, Wool Carding, and Cloth Fulling and Dress- ing, Wind Mills, Steam Power, &c. By David Craik, Mill- wright. Illustrated by numerous wood engravings, and five folding plates. 1 vol. 8vo. . . . . $5 00 n AMPIN. — A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MECHANICAL EN- U GINEERING: Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture of Steam-engines, etc. etc. With an Appendix on the Ana- lysis of Iron and Iron Ores. By Francis Campin, C. E. To which are added, Observations on the Construction of Steam Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces used for Smoke Preven- tion ; with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. Armstrong, C. E., and John Bourne. Rules for Calculating the Change Wheels for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel-cutting Machine. By J. La Nicca. Management of Steel, including Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking, and Expansion. . And the Case-hardening of Iron. By G. Ede. 8vo. Illustrated with 29 plates and 100 wood engravings. $6 00 H AMPIN.— THE PRACTICE OF HAND-TURNING IN WOOD, U IVORY, SHELL, ETC.: With Instructions for Turning such works in Metal as may be required in the Practice of Turning Wood, Ivory, etc. Also, an Appendix on Ornamental Turning. By Francis Campin , with Numerous Illustrations, 12mo., cloth . . $3 00 APRON DE DOLE.— DUSSAUCE.— BLUES AND CARMINES OF INDIGO. A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commercial Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron de Dole Translated, with important additions, by Professor II. Dus- sauce. 12mo. . . . . . . . $2 50 8 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE 0 ARE Y.— THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY: CONTRACTION OR EXPANSION? REPUDIATION OR RE- SUMPTION? Letters to Hon. Hugh McCulloch. 8vo. 38 FINANCIAL CRISES, their Causes and Effects. 8vo. paper 25 HARMONY OF INTERESTS; Agricultural, Manufacturing, and Commercial. 8vo., paper $1 00 Do. do. cloth . . . $1 50 LETTERS TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES. Paper $1 00 MANUAL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. Condensed from Carey’s “Principles of Social Science.” By Kate McKean. 1 vol. 12mo $2 25 MISCELLANEOUS WORKS: comprising “Harmony of Inter- ests,” “Money,” “Letters to the President,” “French and American Tariffs,” “Financial Crises,” “The Way to Outdo England without Fighting Her,” “Resources of the Union,” “The Public Debt,” “Contraction or Expansion,” “ Review of the Decade 1857 — ’67,” “Reconstruction,” etc. etc. 1 vol. 8vo., cloth . . . . . . . . $4 50 MONEY: A LECTURE before the N. Y. Geographical and Sta- tistical Society. 8vo., paper ..... 25 PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 8vo. . . . $2 50 PRINCIPLES OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. 3 volumes 8vo., cloth $10 00 REVIEW OF THE DECADE 1857— ’67. 8vo., paper 50 RECONSTRUCTION: INDUSTRIAL, FINANCIAL, AND PO- LITICAL. Letters to the Hon. Henry Wilson, U. S. S. 8vo, paper . 50 THE PUBLIC DEBT, LOCAL AND NATIONAL. How to provide for its discharge while lessening the burden of Taxa- tion. Letter to David A. Wells, Esq., U. S. Revenue Commis- sion. 8vo., paper ....... 25 THE RESOURCES OF THE UNION. A Lecture read, Dec. 1865, before the American Geographical and Statistical So- ciety, N. Y., and before the American Association for the Ad- vancement of Social Science, Boston ... 50 THE SLAVE TRADE, DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN; Why it Exists, and How it may be Extinguished. 12mo., cloth $1 5(7 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. LETTERS ON INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. (1867.) Paper 50 REVIEW OF THE FARMERS’ QUESTION. (1870.) Paper 25 RESUMPTION! HOW IT MAY PROFITABLY BE BROUGHT AROUT. (1869.) 8vo., paper .... 60 REVIEW OF THE REPORT OF HON. D. A. WELLS, Special Commissioner of the Revenue. (1869.) 8vo., paper 50 SHALL WE HAVE PEACE? Peace Financial and Peace Poli- tical. Letters to the President Elect. (1868.) 8vo., paper 50 THE FINANCE MINISTER AND THE CURRENCY, AND THE PUBLIC DEBT. (1868.) 8vo., paper . . 50 THE WAY TO OUTDO ENGLAND WITHOUT FIGHTING HER. Letters to Hon. Schuyler Colfax. (1865.) 8vo., paper $1 00 WEALTH! OF WHAT DOES IT CONSIST ? (1870.) Paper 25 QAMTJS.— A TREATISE ON THE TEETH OF WHEELS : Demonstrating the best forms which can be given to them for the purposes of Machinery, such as Mill-work and Clock-work. Trans- lated from the French of M- Camus. By John I. Hawkins. Illustrated by 40 plates. 8vo. . . . . . $3 00 noXE.— MINING LEGISLATION. A paper read before the Am. Social Science Association. By Eckley B. Coxe. Paper 20 Q0LBURN.— THE GAS-WORKS OF LONDON : Comprising a^eketch of the Gas-works of the city, Process of Manufacture, Quantity Produced, Cost, Profit, etc. By Zerah Colburn. 8vo., cloth 75 rOLBURN.— THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE: Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimat- ing its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construc- tion and Management. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. A new edition. 12mo. . . . . . . $1 25 nOLBURN AND MAW.— THE WATER- WORKS OF LONDON : Together with a Series of Articles on various other Water- works. By Zerah Colburn and W. Maw. Reprinted from “Engineering.” In one volume, 8vo. . . $4 00 TV \GUERRE0TYPIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER’S COMPANION: 12mo., cloth $1 25 10 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. ■jQXRCKS. — PERPETUAL MOTION : Or Search for Self-Motive Power during the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. Illustrated from various authentic sources in Papers, Essays, Letters, Paragraphs, and numerous Patent Specifications, with an Introductory Essay by Henry Dircks, C. E. Illustrated by numerous engravings of machines. 12mo., cloth $3 50 TYIXON. — THE PRACTICAL MILLWRIGHT’S AND ENGINEER’S U GUIDE : Or Tables for Finding the Diameter and Power of Cogwheels ; Diameter, Weight, and Power of Shafts ; Diameter and Strength of Bolts, etc. etc. By Thomas Dixon. 12mo., cloth. $1 50 JJUN CAN. — PRACTICAL SURVEYOR’S GUIDE: Containing the necessary information to make any person, of common capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of a teacher. By Andrew Duncan. Illustrated. 12mo., cloth. $1 25 TYUS SAUCE. — A NEW AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE U ARTS OF TANNING, CURRYING, AND LEATHER DRESS- ING : Comprising all the Discoveries and Improvements made in France, Great Britain, and the United States. Edited from Notes and Documents of Messrs. Sallerou, Grouvelle, Duval, Dessables, Labarraque, Payen, Ren6, De Fontenelle, Mala- peyre, etc. etc. By Prof. H. Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated by 212 wood engravings. 8vo. .... $10 00 TjUSSAUCE. — A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE ^ OF SOAP, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL : Comprising the Chemistry of the Art, a Description of all the Raw Materials and their Uses. Directions for the Establishment of a Soap Factory, with the necessary Apparatus, Instructions in the Manufacture of every variety of Soap, the Assay and Determination of the Value of Alkalies, Fatty Substances, Soaps, etc. etc. By Professor H. Dussauce. With an Appendix, containing Ex- tracts from the Reports of the International Jury on Soap^i, as exhibited in the Paris Universal Exposition, 1867, numerous Tables, etc. etc. Illustrated by engravings. In one volume 8vo. of over 800 pages $1° 00 TJUSSAUCE.— PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE FABRICATION ** OF MATCHES, GUN COTTON, AND FULMINATING POW- DERS. By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo. . . . $3 00 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 11 jyjSSAUCE.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE PERFUMER: Being a New Treatise on Perfumery the most favorable to the Beauty without being injurious to the Health, comprising a Description of the substances used in Perfumery, the Form- ulae of more than one thousand Preparations, such as Cosme- tics, Perfumed Oils, Tooth Powders, Waters, Extracts, Tinc- tures, Infusions, Yinaigres, Essential Oils, Pastels, Creams, Soaps, and many new Hygienic Products not hitherto described. Edited from Notes and Documents of Messrs. Debay, Lunel, etc. With additions by Professor H. Dussauce, Chemist. 12mo. $3 00 TVJSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE ^ OF VINEGAR, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL. Comprising the various methods, by the slow and the quick pro* cesses, with Alcohol, Wine, Grain, Cider, and Molasses, as well as the Fabrication of Wood Vinegar, etc. By Prof. H. Dussauce. I2mo. (In press.) TjUPLAIS. — A COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE DISTILLATION 19 AND MANUFACTURE OF ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS : From the French of M. Duplais. Translated and Edited by M. McKennie, M D. Illustrated by numerous large plates and wood engravings of the best apparatus calculated for producing the finest products. In one vol. royal 8vo. (Ready May 1, 1871.) D^=“ This is a treatise of the highest scientific merit and of the greatest practical value, surpassing in these respects, as well as in the variety of its contents, any similar volume in the English language. |E GRAFF.— THE GEOMETRICAL STAIR-BUILDERS’ GUIDE r Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all its necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by 22 Steel Engravings ; together with the use of the most approved princi- ples of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. $5 00 jYER AND COLOR-MAKER’S COMPANION : Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Co- lors, on the most approved principles, for all the various styles and fabrics now in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and plain Directions for Preparing, Washing-off, and Finishing the Goods. In one vol. 12mo. . . . . . $1 25 12 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. p ASTON.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON STREET OR HORSE- POWER RAILWAYS : Their Location, Construction, and Management ; with General Plans and Rules for their Organization and Operation; toge- ther with Examinations as to their Comparative Advantages over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries as to their Value for Investment ; including Copies of Municipal Ordinances relat- ing thereto. By Alexander Easton, C. E. Illustrated by 23 plates, 8vo., cloth $2 00 ORSYTH.— BOOK OF DESIGNS FOR HEAD-STONES, MURAL, AND OTHER MONUMENTS : Containing 78 Elaborate and Exquisite Designs. By Forsyth. 4to., cloth $5 00 This volume, for the beauty and variety of its designs, has never been surpassed by any publication of the kind, and should be in the hands of every marble-worker who does fine monumental work. pAIRBAIRN.— THE PRINCIPLES OF MECHANISM AND MA- X CHINERY OF TRANSMISSION : Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Couplings of Shafts, and Engaging and Disengaging Gear. By William Fairbairn, Esq., C. E., LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S., Corresponding Member of the National Institute of France, and of the Royal Academy of Turin ; Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, etc. etc. Beau- tifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one volume 12mo. $2 50 pAIRBAIRN.— PRIME-MOVERS : Comprising the Accumulation of Water-power; the Construc- tion of Water-wheels and Turbines; the Properties of Steam; the Varieties of Steam-engines and Boilers and Wind-mills. By William Fairbairn, C. E , LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S. Au- thor of “Principles of Mechanism and the Machinery of Trans- mission.” With Numerous Illustrations. In one volume. (In press.) niLBART— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON BANKING: R,T Tiufa Wttttam frTTBAPT Tn wViir»V» ia nrlrtarJ* THE Na- By James William Gilbart. To which is added: tional Bank Act as now in force. 8vo. $4 50 HESNER.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON COAL, PETROLEUM, ^ AND OTHER DISTILLED OILS. By Abraham Gesner, M. D., F. G. S. Second edition, revised and enlarged. By George Weltden Gesner, Consulting Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated. 8vo. . . $3 50 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 13 GOTHIC ALBUM FOR CABINET MAKERS: Comprising a Collection of Designs for Gothic Furniture. ID lustrated by twenty-three large and beautifully engraved plates. Oblong $3 00 n RANT.— BEET-SOOT SUGAR AND CULTIVATION OF THE U BEET: By E. B. Grant. 12mo. $1 25 QREGORY— MATHEMATICS FOR PRACTICAL MEN : Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, and Civil Engineers. By Olintiius Gregory. 8vo., plates, cloth $3 00 mtlSWOLD.— RAILROAD ENGINEER’S POCKET COMPANION. Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and Angles, Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary Tables for Engineers ; also the art of Levelling fr om Prelimi- nary Survey to the Construction of Railroads, intended Ex- pressly for the Young Engineer, together with Numerous Valu- able Rules and Examples. By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks. $1 75 QUETTIER— METALLIC ALLOYS : Being a Practical Guide to their Cheniical and Physical Pro- perties, their Preparation, Composition, and Uses. Translated from the French of A. Guettier, Engineer and Director of Founderies, author of “ La Fouderie en France,” etc. etc. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In one volume, 12mo. (In press.) JJATS AND FELTING: A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical Hatter. Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, &c., 8vo. $1 25 TTAY.— THE INTERIOR DECORATOR : The Laws of Harmonious Coloring adapted to Interior Decora- tions : with a Practical Treatise on House-Painting. By D. R. Hay, House-Painter and Decorator. Illustrated by a Dia- gram of the Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors. 12mo. * $2 25 TTUGHES.— AMERICAN MILLER AND MILLWRIGHT’S AS- 11 S 1ST ANT : By Wm. Carter Hughes. A new edition. In one volume, 12mo .... $1 50 14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. IF NT — THE PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. By Robert Hunt, Vice-President of the Photographic Society, London. With numerous illustrations. 12mo., cloth . 75 JJURST.— . A HAND-BOOK FOR ARCHITECTURAL SURVEYORS : Comprising Formulae useful in Designing Builders’ work, Table of Weights, of the materials used in Building, Memoranda connected with Builders’ work, Mensuration, the Practice of Builders’ Measurement, Contracts of Labor, Valuation of Pro- perty, Summary of the Practice in Dilapidation, etc. etc. By J. F. Hurst, C. E. 2d edition, pocket-book form, full bound $2 50 JERVIS.— RAILWAY PROPERTY: A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways ; designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Mana- gers, Officers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Chief Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, &c. One vol. 12mo., cloth .... . $2 00 JOHNSON.— A REPORT TO THE NAVY DEPARTMENT OF THE U UNITED STATES ON AMERICAN COALS • Applicable to Steam Navigation and to other purposes. By Walter R. Johnson. With numerous illustrations. 607 pp. 8vo., half morocco . . . . . $10 00 'OHNSTON.— INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ANALYSIS OF SOILS, LIMESTONES, AND MANURES' By J. W. F. Johnston. 12mo. .... 35 1ENE. — A HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL GAUGING, For the Use of Beginners, to which is added a Chapter on Dis- tillation, describing the process in operation at the Custom House for ascertaining the strength of wines. By James B. Keene, of H. M. Customs. 8vo. . . $1 25 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 15 gENTISH.— A TREATISE ON A BOX OF INSTRUMENTS, And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Lo- garithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measur- ing of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. By Thomas Kentish. In one volume. 12mo. . . $1 25 OBELI.— ERNI.— MINERALOGY SIMPLIFIED : A short method of Determining and Classifying Minerals, by means of simple Chemical Experiments in the Wet Way. Translated from the last German Edition of F. Von Kobell, with an Introduction to Blowpipe Analysis and other addi- tions. By Henri Erni, M. D., Chief Chemist, Department of Agriculture, author of “Coal Oil and Petroleum.” In one volume. 12mo. ... . . $2 50 JANDRIN. — A TREATISE ON STEEL : Comprising its Theory, Metallurgy, Properties, Practical Work- ing, and Use. By M. H. C. Landrin, Jr., Civil Engineer. Translated from the French, with Notes, by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on the Bessemer and the Martin Processes for Manufacturing Steel, from the Report of Abram S. Hewitt, United States Commissioner to the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867. 12mo. . . $3 00 TARKIN.— THE PRACTICAL BRASS AND IRON FOUNDER’S GUIDE. A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metals and their Alloys, etc.; to which are added Recent Improve- ments in the Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Pro- cess, etc. etc. By James Larkin, late Conductor of the Brass Foundry Department in Reany, Neafie & Co.’s Penn Works, Philadelphia. Fifth edition, revised, with extensive Addi- tions. In one volume. 12mo $2 25 J6 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. TEAVITT.— FACTS ABOUT PEAT AS AN ARTICLE OF FUEL: With Remarks upon its Origin and Composition, the Localities m which it is found, the Methods of Preparation and Manu facture, and the various Uses to which it is applicable; toge- ther with many other matters of Practical and Scientific Inte- rest. To which is added a chapter on the Utilization of Coal Dust with Peat for the Production of an Excellent Fuel at * Moderate Cost, especially adapted for Steam Service. By H. T. Leavitt. Third edition. 12mo. . . . $1 75 TEROUX — A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFAC- TURE OF WORSTEDS AND CARDED YARNS: Translated from the French of Charles Leroux, Mechanical Engineer, and Superintendent of a Spinning Mill. By Dr. II. Paine, and A. A. Fesquet. Illustrated by 12 large plates. In one volume 8vo. . $5 00 JESLIE (MISS).— COMPLETE COOKERY: Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss Leslie. 60th edition. Thoroughly revised, with the addi- tion of New Receipts. In 1 vol. 12mo., cloth . . $1 50 JESLIE (MISS). LADIES’ HOUSE BOOK : a Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 12mo., cloth TESLIE (MISS).— TWO HUNDRED RECEIPTS IN COOKERY. 12mo. ........ . $1 25 FRENCH 50 TIEBER.— ASS AYER’S GUIDE : Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the Ores of all the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and Alloys, and of Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. 12mo., cloth $1 25 T QVE.— THE ART OF DYEING, CLEANING, SCOURING, AND FINISHING : On the most approved English and French methods; being Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woollens, and Cottons, Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc.; Scouring and Cleaning Bed and Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc.; French and English Cleaning, etc. By Thomas Love. Second American Edition, to which are added General Instructions for the Use of Aniline Colors. 8vo 5 00 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 17 Ti/TAIN AND BROWN— QUESTIONS ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED And Examination Papers ; with Hints for their Solution. By Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Royal Naval College, and Thomas Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. 12mo., cloth $1 50 1/TAIN AND BROWN— TIIE INDICATOR AND DYNAMOMETER? I Vi With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By Thomas J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass’t Prof. Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief En- gineer, R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. From the Fourth London Edition. 8vo. ... . $1 50 TUT AIN AND BROWN.— THE MARINE STEAM-ENGINE. By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass’t S. Mathematical Professor at Royal Naval College, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. Inst. C. E. Chief Engineer, R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval College. Authors of “Questions Connected with the Marine Steam-En- gine,” and the “ Indicator and Dynamometer.” With numerous Illustrations. In one volume 8vo. . . . . . $5 00 TV/TARTIN.— SCREW-CUTTING TABLES, FOR THE USE OF ME- CHANICAL ENGINEERS : Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the Threads of Screws of any required Pitch ; with a Table for Making the Universal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. Martin, Engineer. 8vo. ....... 50 TITHES— A PLAIN TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. With Illustrations. By William Miles, author of “ The Horse’s Foot” $1 00 1\ /TOLLS WORTH. — POCKET-BOOK OF USEFUL FORMULAS AND • L¥J * MEMORANDA FOR CIVIL AND MECHANICAL ENGINEERS. By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of Civil Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Railway. Second American from the Tenth London Edition. In one volume, full bound in pocket-book form . . „ . $2 00 jyj"OORE. — THE INVENTOR’S GUIDE: Patent Office and Patent Laws : or, a Guide to Inventors, and a Book of Reference for Judges, Lawyers, Magistrates, and others. By J G. Moore. 12mo., cloth $1 25 JJAPIER.— A MANUAL OF ELECTRO-METALLURGY : Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Processes. By James Napier. Fourth American, from the Fourth London edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by engravings. In one volume, 8vo. . . . . . . . . $2 00 18 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. NTAPISR.— A SYSTEM OF CHEMISTRY APPLIED TO DYEING : By James Napier, F. C. S. A New and Thoroughly Revised Edition, completely brought up to the present state of the Science, including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors. By A. A. Fesquet, 'Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Calico Printing, as shown at the Paris Universal Exposition of 1867, from the Reports of the International Jury, etc. Illus- trated. In one volume 8vo., 400 pages . . . . $5 00 >TEW3ERY. — GLEANINGS FROM ORNAMENTAL ART OF U EVERY STYLE; Drawn from Examples in the British, South Kensington, Indian, Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In a series of one hundred exquisitely drawn Plates, containing many hundred ex- amples. By Robert Newbery. 4to $15 00 J^TCHOLSON. — A MANUAL OF THE ART OF BOOK-BINDING : Containing full instructions in the different Branches of Forward- ing, Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling Book- edges and Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illustrated. 12mo. cloth .... $2 25 TTORRIS.— A HAND-BOOK FOR LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERS AND MACHINISTS: Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing Locomotives; Manner of Setting Valves; Tables of Squares, Cubes, Areas, etc. etc. By Septimus Norris, Civil and Me- chanical Engineer. New edition. Illustrated, 12mo., cloth $2 00 WTYSTROM. — ON TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF SHIPS AND SCREW PROPELLERS: For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, lata Acting Chief Engineer U. S. N. Second edition, revised with additional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. 12mo. $2 50 NEILL.— A DICTIONARY OF DYEING AND CALICO PRINT- ING: Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes in use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics : with Prac- tical Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O’Neill, Analytical Chemist; Fellow of the Chemical Society of London; Member of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester ; Author of “ Chemistry of Calico Printing and Dyeing.” To which is added An Essay on Coal Tar Colors and their Application to 0 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 19 Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesqttet, Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Calico Printing, as shown at the Exposition of 1867, from the Reports of the Interna, tional Jury, etc. In one volume 8vo., 491 pages . . $6 00 jSBORN. — THE METALLURGY OF IRON AND STEEL : Theoretical and Practical : In all its Branches ; With Special Re- ference to American Materials and Processes. By II. S. Osborn, LL. D., Professor of Mining and Metallurgy in Lafayette College, Easton, Pa. Illustrated by 230 Engravings on Wood, and 6 Folding Plates. 8vo., 972 pages $10 00 jSBORN.— AMERICAN MINES AND MINING : Theoretically and Practically Considered. By Prof. II. S. Os- born, Illustrated by numerous engravings. 8vo. {In preparation.) lAINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER’S COMPANION : Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, and Glass Staining, with numerous useful and valuable Receipts ; Tests for the Detection of Adulterations in Oils and Colors, and a statement of the Dis- eases and Accidents to which Painters, Gilders, and Varnishers are particularly liable, with the simplest methods of Prei r ention and Remedy. With Directions for Graining, Marbling, Sign Writ- ing, and Gilding on Glass. To which are added Complete Instruc- tions for Coach Painting and Varnishing. 12mo., cloth, $1 60 pALLETT.— THE MILLER’S, MILLWRIGHT’S, AND ENGI- X NEER’S GUIDE. By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. In one vol. 12mo. . $3 00 pERKINS.— GAS AND VENTILATION. Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Relation to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Including Scien- tific Helps to Engineer-students and others. With illustrated Diagrams. By E. E. Perkins. 12mo., cloth . . . $1 25 pERKINS AND STOWE.— A NEW GUIDE TO THE SHEET-IRON L AND BOILER PLATE ROLLER: Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and Piles to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and the Sizes of Bars to Produce Sheet-iron ; the Thickness of the Bar Gauge in Decimals; the Weight per foot, and the Thickness on the Bar or Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an inch; the Weight per sheet, and the Thickness on the Wire Gauge of Sheet- iron of various dimensions to weigh 112 lbs. per bundle ; and the conversion of Short Weight into Long Weight, and Long Weight into Short. Estimated and collected by G. II, Perkins and J. G* Stowe $2 60 20 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. "DHXLLIPS AND DARLINGTON.— RECORDS OF MINING AND METALLURGY : Or, Facts and Memoranda for the use of the Mine Agent and Smelter. By J. Arthur Phillips, Mining Engineer, Graduate of the Imperial School of Mines, France, etc., and John Darlington. Illustrated by numerous engravings. In one vol. 12mo. . $2 00 &RADAL, MALEPEYRE, AND DUSSAUCE. — A COMPLETE TREATISE ON PERFUMERY: Containing notices of the Raw Material used in the Ait, and the Best Formulae. According to the most approved Methods followed in France, England, and the United States. By M. P. Pradal, Perfumer-Chemist, and M. F. Malepeyre. Translated from the French, with extensive additions, by Prof. H. Dussauce. 8vo. $10 *R9TEAUX. — PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PAPER AND BOARDS. By A. Proteaux, Civil Engineer, and Graduate of the School of Arts and Manufactures, Director of Thiers’s Paper Mill, ’Puy-de- Dome. With additions, by L. S. Le Normand. Translated from the French, with Notes, by Horatio Paine, A. B., M. D. To which is added a Chapter on the Manufacture of Paper from Wood in the United States, by Henry T. Brown, of the “American Artisan.” Illustrated by six plates, containing Drawings of Raw Materials, Machinery, Plans of Paper-Mills, etc. etc. 8vo. $5 00 ■DEGNAULT.— ELEMENTS OF CHEMISTRY. By M. Y. Regnault. Translated from the French by T. For- rest Benton, M. B., and edited, with notes, by James C. Booth, Melter and Refiner U. S. Mint, and Wm. L. Faber, Metallurgist and Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 wood engravings. Comprising nearly 1500 pages. In two vols. 8vo., cloth $10 00 ■p EID . — A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE OF PORTLAND CEMENT: By Henry Reid, C. E. To which is added a Translation of M. A. Lipowitz’s Work, describing anew method adopted in Germany of Manufacturing that Cement. By W. F. Reid. Illustrated by plates and wood engravings. 8vo. . . . . . $7 00 p IFF AULT, VERGNAUD, AND TOUSSAINT.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE OF COLORS FOR PAINTING : Containing the best Formulae and the Processes the Newest and in most General Use. By MM. Riffault, Yergnaud, andTous- saint. Revised and Edited by M. F. Malepeyre and Dr. Emil Winckler. Illustrated by Engravings. In one vol. Svo. (I?i preparation .) HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE, 21 T5 IFF AULT, VERGNAUD, AND TOUSSAINT.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE OF VARNISHES : By MM. Riffault, Vergnaud, and Toussaint. Revised and Edited by M. F. Malepeyre and Dr. Emie Winckler. Illus- trated. In one vol. 8vo. (In preparation.) OKUNH. — A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON RAILWAY CURVES ° AND LOCATION, FOR YOUNG ENGINEERS. By Wh. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. 12mo., tucks $2 00 gMEATON.— BUILDER’S POCKET COMPANION: Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Architec. ture ; with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with the sub- ject. By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engineer, etc. In one volume, 12mo. . . . . . . . . . . $1 50 HMITH— THE DYER’S INSTRUCTOR: Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, Cot- ton, Wool, and Worsted, and Woollen Goods: containing nearly 800 Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Pad- ding ; and the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such work. By David Smith, Pattern Dyer, 12mo., cloth $3 00 DMITH— THE PRACTICAL DYER’S GUIDE: W Comprising Practical Instructions in the Dyeing of Shot Cobourgs, Silk Striped Orleans, Colored Orleans from Black Warps, ditto from White Warps, Colored Cobourgs from White Warps, Merinos, Yarns, Woollen Cloths, etc. Containing nearly 300 Receipts, to most of which a Dyed Pattern is annexed. Also, a Treatise on the Art of Padding. By David Smith. In one vol. 8vo. $25 00 OH AW. — CIVIL ARCHITECTURE : ^ Being a Complete Theoretical and Practical System of Building, containing the Fundamental Principles of the Art. By Edward Shaw, Architect. To which is added a Treatise on Gothic Archi- tecture, &c. By Thomas W. Silloway and George M. Hard- ing , Architects. The whole illustrated by 102 quarto plates finely engraved on copper. Eleventh Edition. 4to. Cloth. $10 00 gLOAN .—AMERICAN HOUSES: A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 26 colored Engravings, with Descriptive References. By Samuel Sloan, Architect, author of the “ Model Architect,” etc. etc. 8vo. $2 50 OCHINZ.— RESEARCHES ON THE ACTION OF THE BLAST. M FURNACE. By Chas. Schinz, Seven plates. 12mo. . . $4 25 22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. OMITH.— PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS : Or, Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks, and Gardens. By Charles II. J By Charles II. and Garden Architect, etc. etc. Smith, Landscape Gardener 12mo $2 25 QTOKES.— CABINET-MAKER’S AND UPHOLSTERER’S COMPA- 10 NION : Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet-making and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, Illustrated by Examples for attaining a Proficiency in the Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet-work ; The Processes of Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl-work ; the Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood, Bone, Tortoise Shell, etc. Directions for Lackering, Japanning, and Varnishing; to make French Polish ; to prepare the Best Glues, Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Receipts, particularly for workmen generally. By J. Stokes. In one vol. 12mo. With illustrations $1 25 STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS. Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Properties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines for Test- ing Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in service. By Officers of the Ordnance Department U. S. Army. By authority of the Secretary of War. Illustrated by 25 large steel plates. In 1 vol. quarto ....... . $10 00 HULLIVAN.— PROTECTION TO NATIVE INDUSTRY. ^ By Sir Edward Sullivan, Baronet. (1870.) 8vo. . $1 50 rpABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, SQUARE, AND 1 FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC. By Measurement. Cloth ...... 63 rpAYLOR. — STATISTICS OF COAL: **" Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts and Manufactures ; with their Geographical, Geological, and Commer- cial Distribution and amount of Production and Consumption on the American Continent. With Incidental Statistics of the Iron Manufacture. By R. C. Taylor. Second edition, revised by S. S. Haldeman. Illustrated by five Maps and many wood engrav- ings. 8vo., cloth . . . . . . . . $6 00 rpEMPLETON. — THE PRACTICAL EXAMINATOR ON STEAM 1 AND THE STEAM-ENGINE : With Instructive References relative thereto, for the Use of Engi- neers, Students, and others. By Wm. Templeton, Engineer 12mo. $1 25 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. 23 T fTiHOMAS. — THE MODERN PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. *®* By R. W. Thomas, F. C. S. 8vo., cloth .... 75 fPHOMSON.— FREIGHT CHARGES CALCULATOR. By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent . . . . $1 25 •BURNING : SPECIMENS OF FANCY TURNING EXECUTED ON THE HAND OR FOOT LATHE : With Geometric, Oval, and Eccentric Chucks, and Elliptical Cut- ting Frame. By an Amateur. Illustrated by 30 exquisite Pho- tographs. 4to. ........ $3 00 URNER’S (THE) COMPANION: Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric Turning; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instru- ments ; and Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instruc- tions for working them. A new edition in 1 vol. 12mo. $1 50 TTRBIN — BRULL. — A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR PUDDLING U IRON AND STEEL. By Ed. Urbin, Engineer of Arts and Manufactures. A Prize Essay read before the Association of Engineers, Graduate of the School of Mines, of Liege, Belgium, at the Meeting of 1865-6. To which is added a Comparison of the Resisting Properties of Iron and Steel. By A. Brull. Translated from the French by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In one volume, 8vo. $1 00 TTOGDES.— THE ARCHITECT’S AND BUILDER’S POCKET COM- V PANION AND PRICE BOOK. By F. W. Vogdes, Architect. Illustrated. Full bound in pocket- book form $2 00 In book form, 18mo., muslin . . . . . . 1 50 WARN.— THE SHEET METAL WORKER’S INSTRUCTOR, FOR VV ZINC, SHEET-IRON, COPPER AND TIN PLATE WORK- ERS, &c. By Reuben Henry Warn, Practical Tin Plate Worker. Iilus- trated by 32 plates and 37 wood engravings. 8vo. . . $3 CO ATSON. — A MANUAL OF THE HAND-LATHE. By Egbert P. Watson, Late of the “ Scientific American,” Au- thor of “Modern Practice of American Machinists and Engi- neers,” In one volume, 12mo. . . . . . $1 50 W 24 HENRY CAREY BAIRD’S CATALOGUE. WATSON.— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF AMERICAN MA- VV CHINISTS AND ENGINEERS! Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, Lathe Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow "Work Generally, ■with the most Economical Speed of the same, the Results verified by Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vice, and on the Floor. Together with Workshop management, Economy of Manufacture, the Steam-Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc. etc. By Egbert P. Watson, late of the “Scientific American.” Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. 12mo. $2 50 WATSON.— THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF THE ART OF VV WEAVING BY HAND AND POWER: With Calculations and Tables for the use of those connected with the Trade. By John Watson, Manufacturer and Practical Machine Maker. Illustrated by large drawings of the best Power-Looms. 8vo. $10 00 WEATHERLY.— TREATISE ON .THE ART OF BOILING STT- VV GAR, CRYSTALLIZING, LOZENGE-MAKING, COMFITS, GUM GOODS, And other processes for Confectionery, &c. In which are ex- plained, in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods of Manufacturing every description of Raw and Refined Sugar Goods, as sold by Confectioners and others . . . $2 00 WILL.— TABLES FOR QUALITATIVE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. By Prof. Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Seventh edi- tion. Translated by Charles F. Himes, Ph. D., Professor of Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa. . . $1 25 w XLLXAMS. — ON HEAT AND STEAM : Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and Expan- sion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. $3 50 WORSSAM.— ON MECHANICAL SAWS: f From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1867. By S. W. Worssam, Jr. Illustrated by 18 large folding plates. 8vo. $5 00 WOHLER.— A HAND-BOOK OF MINERAL ANALYSIS. * ^ By F. Wohler. Edited by H. B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry, Rensselaer Institute, Troy, N. Y. With numerous Illustrations. 12mo $3 00 ' ' GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE 3 3125 01147 9496