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DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF 
 
 A ¥ IE 1 
 
 OF 
 
 BERLIN, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 SURROUNDING COUNTRY. 
 
 AT 
 
 THE PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. 
 
 PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETOR, 
 
 M« ROBERT BURFORD, 
 
 FBOM DRAWINGS TAKEN OK THE SPOT BY HIMSELF IN 1851. 
 
 ASSISTED BY H, C. SELOUS. 
 
 PRINTED BY W. J. GOLBOURN, 6, PRINCES STREET, LEICESTER SCIDARK. 
 
 PRICE SIXPENCE. 
 1854. 
 
BERLIN, 
 
 The capital of Prussia, is, in several respects, a very remarkable city. 
 It stands on a dead level, there not being the slightest rise or fall in any of 
 the streets ; and it is entirely surrounded by a vast and dreary plain of satfd, 
 destitute of beauty, and exhibiting but few signs of fertility. A small 
 and sluggish river, called the Spree, navigable only for small craft, passes 
 through it in three streams, but, from the slowness of its course, presents 
 rather the appearance of stagnant water. In a commercial point of view 
 it has but little to recommend it, doing but a very limited trade ; and it 
 possesses neither natural nor artificial means of resisting an attacking foe. 
 Yet, notwithstanding all these disadvantages, it is decidedly one of the 
 finest of the cities of Germany, and may perhaps rank as one of the most 
 delightful and intellectual of all Europe : at the same time, the regularity 
 of its general arrangements, and the number, imposing size, and magnifi- 
 cence of its buildings, compel the beholder to admit that it is a fitting 
 capital for so great a kingdom. 
 
 Rarely, indeed, is a finer and more pleasing coup-d'cell met with than 
 the view of Berlin from the summit of the Dom, or Cathedral, a fine 
 building, standing nearly in the centre of the city, at the junction of the 
 old and new towns, and precisely at the spot where all the largest and 
 most important buildings are concentrated. Here the Panorama was 
 taken. Immediately beneath the spectator, the foreground is occupied by 
 the Lust Garten, an ample space well planted and laid out with walks, 
 and having a fountain in the centre ; on one side stands the Cathedral, 
 which, of course, cannot be seen; on the opposite it is bounded by an 
 arm of the Spree ; on the left is the vast and stately fa9ade of the royal 
 Schloss, or Palace ; and on the right the light and beautiful colonnade of 
 the new Museum. Towards the west, beyond the river, stretches the 
 Unter den Linden," or " Under the Lindens," one of, if not the finest 
 street possessed by any city in Europe. It is nearly a mile in length, 
 and of very considerable breadth, having both its sides bordered by the 
 finest buildings, both public and private ; the centre is planted nearly the 
 wholQ of its length by a rich grove of limes, from which it takes its name, 
 
4 
 
 at the farthest extremity of which, and towering much above them, 
 stands the beautiful Brandenburg Gate, surmounted by the celebrated 
 Car of Victory, behind which the rieli foliage of the trees in the Thier- 
 garten form a fine background. Amongst the most commanding buildings 
 here seen are the late king's private residence, the new Opera House, the 
 vast dome of the Catholic Church of St. Hedewig, the Royal Library, 
 and the Prince of Prussia's Palace, all on the left side of the street ; on 
 the right, the most conspicuous are the splendid Arsenal, the magnificent 
 Guard House, the University, the Academy of Fine Arts, and the 
 Ohservatory. To the right and left of the " Unter den Linden" run" the 
 numerous streets of the new town, reaching to the walls in perfectly 
 straight lines, some being nearly three miles in length, all filled with 
 houses of vast size and good architecture, to the sparkling whiteness of 
 which a few open spaces covered with grass, and here and there some 
 trees, afford a pleasant contrast. 
 
 Towards the East is the main branch of the Spree, covered by the long 
 narrow barges used in its navigation, and a few small pleasure boats ; 
 beyond which stands the old city, presenting long narrow streets, picturesque 
 masses of brick houses, and an interminable wilderness of red tiled roofs, 
 occasionally broken by some quaint and antique looking church, tower or 
 steeple. 
 
 Around the city spreads a plain of pure sand, in almost every direction, 
 on which the vegetation appears to be stunted and the very grass seems 
 to grow with reluctance. In some few places, however, nature has been 
 fairly overcome by the art and industry of man, and the dry sandy soil 
 made to produce pleasant places, especially by the banks of the river ; 
 indeed, the approach to Berlin by the Charlottenburg road and the Thier- 
 garten is most beautiful and agreeable. On the whole, however, the 
 plain presents an arid and desolate appearance to a vast distance, with 
 scarcely a single attractive feature. 
 
 It is a matter of some surprise how the foundations of a large town 
 ever came to be fixed in a position so uninteresting, and so unsuited for 
 the purpose ; but it is still more wonderful that it should, notwithstanding 
 all its disadvantages and drawbacks, have grown in little more than one 
 hundred and fifty years into so large and flourishing a capital. 
 
 Of the early history of Berlin nothing is positively known. Previously 
 to the reign of the Elector, Duke Frederick William, it was an obscure 
 town, confined to the right bank of the river and the island on which the 
 palace stands ; the streets crooked, narrow, and unpaved, and the houses of 
 
5 
 
 wood : the place, however, pleased the Elector, and became his favourite 
 resort ; and so soon as he was at peace, after having thrown off his 
 dependence on Poland, he transferred to it the seat of government from 
 Konigsburg, and devoted himself to its improvement. His son, who 
 assumed the regal title for the first time in 1709, followed up his father's 
 views to some extent ; but to Frederick, the warrior and philosopher, 
 justly termed the Great, the honor belongs of erecting what may now be 
 considered the city of Berlin. In the intervals of a long and stormy 
 reign of forty-six years, from 1740 to 1786, he completed it nearly in its 
 present state, and made it the seat of science, letters, and taste, as well as 
 of arms. Anxious to possess a capital proportioned to the rapid increase 
 of his dominions, and ambitious that it should rival in splendour that of 
 any other kingdom, Frederick at once enclosed a vast space by a wall, 
 and ordered it to be covered with streets and houses : he was not accus- 
 tomed to brook delay in the execution of his commands, therefore what 
 he ordered to be done must be done quickly ; so the new city may be 
 said to have risen almost with the rapidity of thought — there it was to be, 
 and there it is ; but, as the population was scanty, the only means of ful- 
 filling his wishes was by extending the houses over as much space as 
 possible, consequently some of the handsomest buildings have as many as 
 twenty, windows in a line, whilst few, if any, are above three stories in 
 height. 
 
 Frederick also exhibited a striking anxiety to diffuse intelligence, and 
 improve the social condition of the citizens of all orders and degrees, and 
 to make his name and city famous through science and art : he founded 
 an university as well as schools of all kinds, giving the professorships as 
 well as most of the high offices of state to the most learned and celebrated 
 men, and the greatest scholars of the day, not only of his own but of 
 either countries, thus bringing together an assemblage of first-rate talent. 
 
 Berlin has suffered but little either by foreign invasion or internal com- 
 motion. In 1757 it was taken by General Haddik with 4000 Croats, 
 and ransomed for 185,000 dollars; and in 1760 it was bombarded and 
 taken by the Russians and Austrians, and was again saved from spolia- 
 tion by the payment of 170,000 dollars. After the battle of Jena and 
 the capitulation of Erfurth, Buonaparte made his triumphal entry into the 
 city, and occupied the royal palace for some lime ; from whence he issued 
 his celebrated Berlin decree against Great Britain, declaring it to be in a 
 state of blockade, and interdicting the whole world from any species of 
 communication with it. The recent troubles of March 16th, 17th, 18th, 
 
6 
 
 and 19tli, 1848, wlien tlio city was convulsed by insiirroction, and for 
 eight s'.ibsequent months was plunged in the gulph of anarchy and mis* 
 rule, are too well known to need repetition, and have but very little 
 interfered with the general order and progress of things. 
 
 The circumference of Berlin is about twelve miles : it is partly sur- 
 rounded by a wall, and partly by palisades. The wall is about eighteen 
 feet in height, but of no strength, its only utility being to prevent the 
 introduction of contraband goods at other places than the barriers. There 
 are fifteen gates, originally named after the places to which the roads from 
 them conducted, but the great roads have of late been so much altered 
 that they no longer do so. 
 
 The city is composed of five towns and five suburbs, all within the 
 walls, of which the burg Dorothea, planned by the great Elector, and 
 named after his consort, and Frederick's town, are the best, and contain 
 the finest streets and buildings. There are altogether 186 streets, 27 
 squares and market-places, 27 parish churches, 37 bridges, 3 theatres, 
 11 palaces of the royal family, 17 hospitals, 11 military infirmaries, 
 100 public schools, besides many private, and about 41,000 houses. The 
 oldest parts, towards the north and east of the river, are close and 
 irregularly built, but exhibit some interesting specimens of the style of 
 building of the time of the Elector Frederick ; those to the south and 
 west are the seats of opulence, and present a vast amount of fine buildings, 
 each of which might be taken for a palace. The whole, however, being 
 the result of one plan, is extremely regular, even to dulness : there is a 
 species of coldness not to be overcome, a constant repetition of one stylo, 
 a frigid sort of academical splendour, in so many new and stately edifices, 
 wanting the relief of a bit of dingy antiquity ; all is beautiful, but it is 
 beauty without expression or variety ; and the streets, from their great 
 length and breadth, appear never to be filled. 
 
 The paving is by no means good, there being no stone in the neighbour- 
 hood; it has to be brought from a distance, at a great expense. There is 
 an ample raised footway on both sides of the streets, but the portion of it 
 paved with flag-stones is so narrow that two persons cannot walk abreast, 
 and many are wholly paved with small sharp pebbles, extremely galling 
 to the feet. The flatness of the ground also produces many inconve- 
 niences, as drainage is next to impossible, the water consequently becomes 
 stagnant in the kennels, whicli are cither entirely open or covered with 
 loose boards, and spreads over the roads after the least rain. In summer, 
 when the heat of the sun is reflected by the sand, the putrid effervesceng^ 
 
7 
 
 becomes intolerablo, and the noxiotia vapours exlialed are as unwliolesomo 
 as tliey are unpleasant. In rainy weather the sandy soil soon absorbs 
 the wet, and the vast clouds of dust that rise on the least ^viud aro 
 extremely annoying. ' The streets arc well lighted by gas. 
 
 Several of the squares are very spacious, still they are little more than 
 mere vacant areas, being usually dead surfaces of loose sand, without turf 
 or shrubs, a row of stunted trees round them being the most they can 
 boast; miny are ornamented with the statue of a king or warrior, and 
 certainly the latter have no reason to complain of their memories havmg 
 been treated with ingratitude. Frederick had a profound respect for the 
 heroes of his army, which his reverence and the public spirit, aroused by 
 the events of late years, has called forth in the streets, squares, and 
 bridges, by a host of statues in marble and bronze. The finest and most 
 'interesting buildings are concentrated in one focus, between the palace 
 and the Brandenburg-gate, and few European cities can show so much 
 architectural splendour, with so little antiquity, as is here seen. Here 
 the houses are wide, spacious, and open fronted-not lofty it is true, for 
 few are above three, many not more than two stories in height. Owmg 
 to the scarcity of stone they, as well as most of the public buildings, are 
 built of bricks stuccoed ; some are, however, of stone, for the inventive 
 genius of Frederick met the difficulty by compelling all vessels coming up 
 the Havel and Spree to take on board at Magdeburg a certain quantity of 
 freestone, and to disembark it at Berlin. In their general architecture, 
 although they aie not all built to one plan, there is a degree of uniformity, 
 almost arising to monotony, from the too frequent repetition of the same 
 forms and combination, the general style being an Ionic portico before a 
 plain front, sometimes repeated on each of the four sides, but nevep 
 extending round the building, or even the entire length of one side, 
 From the absence of coal smoke, they have a bright and clean appearance i 
 and the innumerable green jalousies, together with the flowers in the 
 windows and balconies, as well as in vases in front, give them a certain 
 degree of lightness and gaiety. In the interiors they are well arranged, 
 the apartments are spacious and lofty, and the ornamental decorations and 
 furniture in good taste. 
 
 There are but few gay shops to attract loungers, but the numerous 
 coffee houses, restaurants, confectioners, and winter gardens, are superbly 
 fitted establishments, similar to those of Paris, whilst the beer and 
 wine houses vie in splendour with the gin palaces of London. Although 
 the inhabitants of Berlin are more a domesticated race than those of 
 
Paris, still they spend much of their time in these places ;\they are 
 the morning resort of the soldier, the idler, and the politician,' even the 
 man of business feels it his duty to visit one or other of them at least 
 once a day, and in the evening they are the reunion of the men of 
 pleasure, literature and art, and those who play. 
 
 Berlin certainly stands free from the ofifence of over population, 
 the resident inhabitants not numbering 400,000, and it is a place 
 visited by but few strangers. In autumn, the fashionable season the 
 number is increased, but not to any great amount, also at the time of 
 the grand review, which usually takes place in September, when from 
 twenty to thirty thousand men are encamped in the vicinity. 
 
 The charitable institutions are numerous, and most admirably conducted 
 and Berlin stands nobly pre-eminent over every other city of large 
 population in Europe, in the care of the poor, and in efficient arrange- 
 ments for the relief of the distressed and the suppression of mendicity 
 prmcipally carried into eflFect by the gratuitous services of the middle 
 classes; no town is so free from an appearance of want and privation; 
 there are no poors rates, no beggars,, no visibly obtrusive police to 
 prevent begging. 
 
 Berlin has but little trade and but few manufactures, the well known 
 and unrivalled iron work, the equally notorious embroidery in wool, 
 cotton, &c., enamel, inlaid work, and silk, are the principal. 
 
 There are five great lines of railways from the city, one on the south- 
 east to Frankfurt, on the Oder (49 miles), and Breslau ; two on the 
 south-west, one to Potsdam (12 miles) and Magdeburg (89 miles;, and 
 one to Anhalt and Leipsig (129 miles), and two on the north-west, one 
 to Hamburg (l75 miles), and one to Stettin (72 miles), thus com, 
 mumcating with all the great lines of Europe. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATE. 
 
 No. I.— Royal Palace, 
 
 An immense pile of building, including two courts, four stories in height erand 
 and imposing from its vast extent and loftiness, but exhibiting no gJeat pef fectSf 
 F e'errc? In SreV'"'""; " principally of freestone, a^nd ^^JloS^^'enlZ^y 
 a portion accordiL lnT'''^''^ P'^^^^* ^inie having added 
 
 ^„?.^i i .to own particular taste— the ornamental and very ele<^ant 
 
 occasioned much irregu^ svant of symmetry, still the general effect is 
 
 Sd statelv ftcTd. n .'i Garten, seen in the view.'presents a vast 
 
 SrticTnresenHnt . t.i "^^^^ ^^''^'^^ most admired-the 
 
 The frortowarltv?. f ^'■"^ °f Septimus Severus, at Rome, 
 
 of the a?ci?nTFtp.fn^.?^p7 ^ P^^^^"'^ °f ^eing the remains 
 
 K«lir„T • ^^^^^"^'^l P'^lace. The mterior is well arranged, and most of the 
 
 S^S rtv in'nlT"*"'"'' 'II ^'I^^ ^"^^ well-proportione^d. The state rooms! 
 vSable aJtiHprwf' • ^'''^ '""""^ many antique and 
 
 valuable articles, both curious and ornamental, are distributed in various narts 
 
 and Josephine. In those occupied by Frederick the Great, which are preserved 
 and s^a'ted'liM' v'"' M^^'^ ^f the King, clothed in the uniform he wore, 
 two ov lhi^ AVP -T^ ^",^\^<r'l^,l^e died : beside him, on a small table, lie 
 rL patched LM :^''' POcket handkerchief, a d rty 
 
 Spended T^P ' T''^ way ^vorthy of the coat to which it used to bl 
 
 yL?s porWiT of N.^nT" t"''T''^ .V ?^«»^^P^rte contain some fine Sevres 
 Sr^SXoo^tfn^^l \ ^^"^ ^"^ the various 
 
 at AVaterioo ^ Emperor, taken by the Prussians in his carriage 
 
 a sTde^S ct'Ji^w^^^^^ I'/ '^^r^'f" apartment, containing a throne, and 
 
 TV, vv^. J n ■ 1^ massive old gold and silver plate. 
 fgtL Lid in it nnp!/Jr ^ ^''f apartment memorable for many celebrated court 
 letes nem in it, one of the most brilliant of which was styled "La Cour de Ferrare " 
 
 every°fer?on an"'"T It'' ""^^'''''^ ^he ^ueen of EXmfa, whLe'at 
 
 ITSe cou'rof d'Este Th' w?^fT^fl°^ celebrated personage of' the time 
 
 of £1 -sn^mn t. !" • ! ^^^tehall has recently been renovated at the expense 
 TriSXJlT^%^^ TJ'' Brandenburg States, and the eight 
 
 it hi 1847 ""^'^'"^ Prussian Parliament was held in 
 
 baSl^n W^?*"""^/' magnificent haU, although the tribune for the 
 
 Sed down hi P formerly, of solid silver, that costly work having been 
 
 rampai^s It *° ^'"^^^ P^y^g ^^P^"^^« «f S^l^sian 
 
 ey"rSTc;ted.'m\raTL^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^P^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^-<i^l-- 
 
 coIt^ainTfe'w nicSic^?^ """"^ sumptuously furnished, and 
 
 the EmneroT Ipf / sovereigns, &c. ; amongst others, those of Queen Victoria, 
 deLated thL^W >, ^l' ^""^ collection of pamtings which formerly 
 Se o? Srn^ll rt?^ o""'! to the museum. The Black 
 
 holevof rPrfpTl ^'-^ F^^^^ Brandenburg, the royal emblem, is 
 
 walirrnd ^p-r^ bronze, marble and stSne ; it is painted on the 
 
 ri aven on th^f'!.''''^ on the tortoise-shell doors and porcelain vases ; it is 
 tS-Iovers . r f -f ^''^'''^'^ plate, and embroidered on the sofas, chairs and 
 taDle-covers ; m short, it meets the eye in every direction. 
 
10 
 
 til former times the palace, according to vulgar belief, was haunted by a 
 »' Weiss dame," or white ladv, who always made her appearance when death, or 
 any great calamity threatened the Hohenzollcrn House. It has been seen by many 
 persons, whose testimony is startling in confirmation of such a tale. 
 
 In front of the palace stand good copies in bronze of the celebrated horses from 
 Mouiit Carvallo, at Rome. They were the gift of the Emperor of llussia. 
 
 No. S.— Turret of the Silver Crown. 
 
 An ancient portion of the palace, in which was formerly kept a large and massive 
 silver crown, made in 1701, to commemorate the creation of the Prussian monarchy. 
 During the seven years' war Frederick caused it to be melted, as well as a vast 
 quantity of the royal plate, to pay his troops, and replaced it by one of metal gilt. 
 
 jVb. 4. — Jerusalem Church, 
 
 A modern erection, presenting no very remarkable feature. To the right of it, in 
 the distance, is the village and two little hills of Templon, near which a portion 
 of Buonaparte's array was encamped, and where, when he was at Berlin, he 
 had frequent reviews. 
 
 No. 5. — Kreu%herg, 
 
 A small eminence or sand hill without the wall, on which is erected a gothic cross 
 or monument, to the memorv of those who died in the war of liberation. It was 
 erected in 1818, and consists" of a spire of cast iron, 60 feet in height, richly orna- 
 mented with allegorical figures, placed in niches, each niche representing a 
 particular battle, with the portrait of some distinguished leader : they are twelve 
 m number, cast from models made by Rauch, Tieck, and Wickman. The principal 
 inscription is " the king to his people, who, at his call, so heartily offered up their 
 blood and treasiire. In commemoration of the fallen— as an acknowledgment to 
 the living— and as a stimulus to succeeding generations." 
 
 Tivoli, a species of Vauxhall, much frequented by the lower classes, is situated 
 at the foot of the hill. This is usually the spot selected for the encampment of 
 the troops at the time of the great annual reviews. 
 
 No. 6. — Werder Church, 
 
 A modern church in the old Flemish style, designed by Schinkel. It is of brick, 
 and is remarkable from the mouldingR, window tracery, corbels, and other orna- 
 ments that are usually cut in stone, being of clay, moulded and burnt like bricks, 
 an important application or revival of that material for the purposes of ornamental 
 architecture. 
 
 No. 9. — New Theatre. 
 
 The Schauspielhaus or new Theatre in the Gens d'Armes Place, has an 
 extensive and commanding frontage, with a handsome portico of six Ionic 
 columns; the other parts are neither symmetrical nor in good taste, even the 
 front is much disfigured by a vast number of small and insignificant windows. 
 Although singularly placed between two very noble churches, the general eflfect 
 is very good. The Theatre is on the second floor of the building, and is nearly 
 as large as Drury Lane ; it is well adapted for comfort, hearing, and the proper 
 enjoyment of the performances, Which are tisually German and French tragedies; 
 the stage is well lighted, and the scenery and decorations all that can be desired. 
 
 The huilding also contains a concert room of noble dimensions, where balls 
 on a most extensive scale are sometimes given, at which the Royal Family are 
 frequently present. 
 
 In the Gens d'Armes Place a large market is held. 
 
 No. 10. — French Church. 
 
 The French Protestant Church is a very elegant building, both within and 
 without. The Cupola rises to the height of 230 feet. There are above 5000 
 French Protestants in Berlin, whose ancestors were driven from France by 
 the religious intolerance of Louis XIV,, and who met with a kind reception here. 
 
11 
 
 JVb. 11. — Trinity Churchy 
 
 A plaiu handsome structure, erected in 1779. 
 
 No. 12. — Catholic Church. 
 
 Dedicated to St. Hedevvig, one of the finest churches in the city. It is an imitation 
 of the Pantheon at Rome, has an immense dome, covering the whole building, and 
 a portico of six noble Ionic columns. The plan was approved by Cardinal Alberoni, 
 who had the high altar, which is much admired, wrought by first-rate artists, 
 under his own inspection at Rome. Collections were made through Italy, France, 
 Spain, Portugal and Germany, and vast sums were collected for its erection ; a 
 considerable portion, however, of the funds thus obtained was appropriated to his 
 own use by the king's chamberlain, Count llothcnburg, a profligate spendthrift, 
 and the church remained a long time unfinished. The Count was the first person 
 buried in the superb vaults beneath, and Frederick the Great discharged his debts, 
 to the amount of ^4000, and finished the church at his own expense. 
 
 No. 15. — Unter den Linden, 
 
 The hansomest street in this, or perhaps in any other capital. It runs due 
 east and west, is nearly a mile in length, and is 160 feet in breadth. Nearly 
 the whole length of its centre is planted with double rows of lindens or limes, 
 from which it takes its name, the first tree_ of which was planted by the hand 
 of the Electress of Holstein GUicksburg, the second wife of Frederick WiUiam. 
 The promenade between the trees is about 50 feet in width, laid out in shady 
 Avalks, furnished with abundance of benches and chairs. This is the favorite 
 Avalk of the fair Bourgeoisie of Berlin, and the resort of the foreign lounger. 
 On the Sunday forenoons, when it is thronged with a well dressed, well pleased, 
 sober looking population, it forms one of the most interesting sights to be met 
 with in Berlin, On either side are roads for equestrians, and broad carriage 
 roads protected by granite posts, connected by iron chauis, also broad pavements 
 next the houses. At the commencement of the street in the grand platz, it is 
 lined on both sides by palaces and vast public buildings, but after the trees 
 commence, the houses, although still very large and magnificent, present a more 
 ■orivate character, and are interspersed with hotels, coffee houses, and a few 
 of the best shops. About the middle of the street it is crossed by Frederick 
 Street, another noble street three miles in length, and perfectly straight, in the 
 vast houses of which reside ministers from foreign courts, diplomatists, and 
 many of the most wealthy citizens. 
 
 No. \Q.~ King's Prii^afe Palace. 
 
 Comparatively speaking a small house, not much larger than that of a London 
 merchant, but displaying in its decorations both simplicity and good taste. The 
 furniture, pictures, and works of art are mostly by native artists : some good 
 copies of IlafJixel's best pictures are Avorthy notice. 
 
 No. 1*7.— Opera House, 
 
 A very graceful buildiilg, more than 500 feet in lengthy with a portico of six 
 Ionic columns on each of ils sides. It was erected in 1845, the pld house built 
 by Frederick the Great in 1714 having been destroyed by fire. The interior is 
 crimson with a vast deal of gilding, and, when brilliantly lighted, and filled 
 with splendidlv dressed females and officers in gay uniforms, the coup-d'ceil is 
 magnilicent. It Avill hold about 2000 people. A large box in the centre, 
 gorgeously decorated, is appropriated to the households of the Royal Family, 
 but the King and his family have boxes right and left of the stage, where they 
 enjoy the performances unrecognized. In winter, Operas, German and Italian, 
 only are played, but at other tim.es, the national drama, tragedy, and comedy, 
 are performed three or four times a week, alternately Avith the New Theatre. 
 There is scarcely any city Avhere music is more universally patronized, or Avhere 
 operas are better performed or appreciated than at Berlin ; it is not fashion, but 
 a real passion for music, that prompts the crowd of listeners that usually throng 
 the Royal Opera House, 
 
12 
 
 No. 18. — Royal Library, 
 
 A tasteless, heavy building, which is said to owe its form to a whim of the 
 great Frederick, who ordered the architect to take a chest of drawers as his model 
 It was ere cted in 1775. It contains one of the larsest and best of all the 
 German libraries, being composed of upwards of 500,000 vols., many very rare 
 and curious, collected from the libraries of private individuals, and Ifi 000 vols 
 of oriental literature, collected by Von Diez, the Prussian Ambassador to Con- 
 stantinople ; also 5000 Persian, Indian, and other manuscripts. Beino- privilecred 
 to receive a copy of every work published in German, an immense^addition" is 
 made every year. Amongst other curiosities are Martin Luther's Bible and 
 the Bible used by Charles I. on the scaffold, and given by him to Bishop Juxon 
 Ihe reading rooms are open daily free, and the inhabitants, and even strano-ers' 
 properly recommended, are allowed to take books to their homes. Adioinine 
 the Royal Library is the Palace of the Prince of Prussia, a handsome building 
 m liont of which stands the fine monument by Ranch, erected in memory of 
 Frederick the Great, opened about two years back. Old Fritz is represented on 
 horseback in his usual costume, and is esteemed a very good likeness ■ the 
 horse, 16 feet in height, stands on a very high pedestal, at the corners of which 
 are four equestrian statues of four of Frederick's generals, the intervals also being 
 hlled with statues of his comrades in arms. The whole is in bronze, and is cer- 
 tainly one of the finest works of the kind in Europe. 
 
 N'o. ^0.— Arsenal. 
 
 The Zeug haus is a vast building 280 feet sauare, erected in 1695, and esteemed 
 a specimen of almost f^iultless architecture. The extent and majestic appearance 
 ot Its fronts, added to the unpretending simplicity of its style, are really 
 admirable. The roof is ornamented with statues and trophies, and the various 
 emblematic groups and other decorations, which are all of a military character 
 are well designed and executed, especially twenty-two heads in alto relievo 
 above the windows of the inner court, carved in stone by Schliiter which in 
 spite of the revolting nature of the subjects (the human face in the agonies of 
 death), are deservedly admired. 
 
 On the ground floor are arranged ancient and modem artillery, many very 
 curious ; on the first floor many fine suits of armour, and in the armoury 100 000 
 stand of arms, including the arms and accoutrements of every army in Eurone • 
 also 1000 stand of colors, mostly taken from the French. 
 
 The Arsenal was used in 1844 as the Emporium of the great German Exhibition 
 In the riots of 1848 it was plundered, and many valuable and curious arms takeii 
 away, which have never been returned. 
 
 Foundry"^ seen to the right of the Arsenal belong to the Royal Cannon 
 
 Between the Arsenal and the University is the Royal Guard House, a most 
 elegant and classical building, in front of which stand marble statues of Billow 
 and hcharnhorst, and a fine bronze statue of Blucher by Ranch. At the back 
 ^^^^ .^°^^e is also the Sing Academic, a handsome building, having the 
 air of a Grecian Temple. It was presented by the King in 1827 to the society 
 of Amateurs called the Smg Verein, well known as the Berlin Choral Union 
 composed of some of the finest singers, musicians and poets of the city. ' 
 
 No. 21. — University and Academy of Fine Arts. 
 
 The University was formerly the palace of the late Prince Henry— a very 
 extensive and substantial building, with but few pretensions to external beauty. 
 It was much disliked by Frederick the Great, especially the windows ; those of 
 the first floor he used to say -resembled those of a stable ; those of the second, a 
 church ; and those of the third, a brothel. The numerous apartments were con- 
 verted m 1809, when the king removed the University from Halle, into class and 
 lecture rooms, and halls for the reception of museums of zoology, mineralogy and 
 anatomy, and the ground at the back into a small botanic garden. Although only 
 so recently founded it is, after Gottingen, the most flourishing and respectable 
 academical estabhshment in Gennany, and possesses the highest reputation for 
 the talents of its teachers, and the wise system of discipline amongst the students, 
 and has produced many learned and eminent men. There are about 120 regular 
 
13 
 
 professors and teachers, and the students usually number from 1600 to 1700, none 
 of whom reside in the building, but are lodged in the town. In the rich and ex- 
 tensive museum is the fine collection of minerals of the celebrated Baron Humboldt, 
 which precious cabinet he refused to the repeated solicitations of Buonaparte, even 
 when the restoration of his estates, which he had lost in the war, was offered as 
 a compensation, that it might remain in his native country. 
 
 The Academy of Fine Arts, placed by Frederick the Great above the royal stables, 
 has little to recommend it to notice beyond the annual exhibition of modern 
 paintings, which takes place from September to December. 
 
 No. 22 — Thiergarten, 
 
 A fine park of considerable extent, presenting woodland walks, shady drives, 
 and picturesque promenades. Nature has indeed been here overcome by art, 
 and the sandy soil made to produce a most luxuriant spot. Extensive plan- 
 tations are interspersed with flower beds, and open spots have coffee houses 
 and places for music and dancing, which are much frequented in the summer 
 evenings. On the north it is bounded by the river Spree, the banks of which 
 are lined with cabarets and rustic seats, where, under the umbrageous shade 
 of the limes and elms, the lower classes indulge in their coffee and beer, smoke 
 their pipes, and watch the progress of the innumerable small boats with pleasure 
 parties that crowd the river. Along the southern side of the park is a Ime 
 of small but handsome villas, belonging to tlie better class of citizens, to 
 which they retire in summer to escape the sultry heat of the city. 
 
 Beyond the Thiergarten are the Zoological Gardens and Royal Menagerie, 
 and a large parade ground for the troops. 
 
 No. 23 — Brandenburg Gate. 
 
 The Brandenburgh Gate deservedly ranks amongst the grandest specimens 
 of modern architecture of the kind. It is a simple, graceful, but at the same 
 time" a noble and majestic gateway, des^igned in imitation of the Propylseum 
 at Athens, but on a much larger scale, by Carl Gotthard Langhans, in 1789. 
 It ccmsists of twelve fluted Doric columns, 44 feet in height, placed double, 
 supporting a finely proportioned entablature without any pediment, but sur- 
 mounted by an attic ; the whole ornamented with fine bas-reliefs, representing 
 the combat of the Centaur and Lapitha;, and the martial deeds of the Margraf 
 Albert, founder of the house of Brunswick. On the top is placed the celebrated 
 car of victory, drawn by four fiery steeds, a fine group of Berlin execution, 
 which Buonaparte, after the disastrous battle of Jena, bore away in triumph 
 to_ Paris in 1806. The successful campaign of 1814 having restored it to its 
 original owners, it was replaced on the gate with considerable ceremony, at which 
 the king and all the nobitity assisted, amidst the most enthusiastic rejoicings. 
 There are five openings to the gate, the central one being 18 feet in width; 
 on each side are carriage-ways, and again pathways for pedestrians, the whole 
 being flanked by two somewhat insignificant guard houses of Grecian architecture. 
 
 To the right of the gate is seen the New Church, and still further to the 
 right, by the side of the river, the palace and beautiful gardens of Belle-vue. 
 
 Through the Brandenburg Gate is the road to 
 
 Charlottenburg, 
 
 A small town about three miles from Berlin, on the road to Spandau, celebrated 
 for the palace erected by Frederick I. for his consort, Sophia Charlotte, daughter 
 of George I. of England, and since that time the favorite residence of several 
 of the kings. It is an extremely pretty place, built and furnished in the English 
 style. The gardens are extensive and beautiful, and are much frequented by 
 the Berliners, to whom they are at all times open. Amongst the many objects 
 of interest in them, the most attractive is the monument of the beautiful, 
 amiable, and most unfortunate Louisa of Prussia. It is a small Doric temple, 
 in which is placed an exquisite figure of the much lamented queen, reposing 
 on a marble sarcophagus ; it is perfectly life-like, and is universally acknowledged 
 to be the master-piece of llauch. The late king is buried by her side in the 
 same temple. The town chiefly consists of a few pleasant villas, and numerous 
 taverns and places of refreshment for the humbler classes. 
 
14 
 
 No. 28 — Spandau, 
 
 A large fortified town of seven or eight thousand inhabitants, ahout eight miles 
 from Berlin, on the road to Hamburg, where the Havel joins the Spree, and 
 where they have the means of inundating the country in case of hostile attack. 
 The fortress of Spandau was the scene of the unfortunate Baron Trench's captivity, 
 it being the statg prison of Prussia. It was also the residence of the electors 
 of Brandenburgh. 
 
 No. Artillery Barracks, 
 
 A vast range of building well arranged for the purpose. Above is seen the 
 General Hospital, to the right of which, and nearly parallel, is the Invalids Hospital. 
 
 No. 32 — Museum, 
 
 A remarkably handsome Grecian edifice, finished in 1880, from the designs 
 of the distinguished artist Shinkel. The foundations are laid on many thou- 
 sand piles, the spot on which it stands having been a portion of the bed of the 
 Spree. The whole, which is perfectly isolated, covers a space of 49,404 square 
 feet, being 276 feet long, by 179 feet in breadth. The facade consists of eighteen 
 noble fluted pillars of the Ionic order, within which the walls are ornamented 
 with fine frescoes by Cornelius. Above, the whole line is surmounted by eagles 
 in pairs. The portico is approached by a flight of 21 steps, 91 feet in length ; 
 fine gates of bronze admit to a noble vestibule, and a superb rotunda 67 feet 
 in diameter, and 72 feet in height, in which are ranged a fine series of antique 
 busts on colossal marble pedestals. Beyond there is a gallery 204 feet in length, 
 by 30 feet in breadth, in which the antique statues are displayed ; a second, equal 
 in size, is filled with casts from all the finest statues in the world; other halls 
 are appropriated to the gems and jewels of the middle ages, medals, carvings 
 in ivory and wood, china, stained glass, and many rare and valuable works. 
 The ground floor is appropriated to a most extensive collection of vases, and 
 some fine bronzes, armour, &c. &c. The sculpture is neither numerous nor 
 particularly good. The gem of the whole collection is undoubtedly a bronze 
 antique of a boy praying, found in the Tiber in the popedom of Clement II.. 
 and presented by him to Prince Eugene of Savoy, from whom it was purchased 
 by Prince Lichtenstein, who sold it to Frederick the Great for 10,000 thalers. 
 The well known "Amazon' by Professor Kiss also occupies a prominent position ; 
 this fine group was cast in bronze in 1839 by a number of Amateurs, and was 
 presented by them to the king. 
 
 The upper story of the Museum contains the picture gallery, in three noble 
 halls, subdivided into 37 compartments, afl"ording 30,000 square feet of wall, 
 covered with crimson cloth, on which is displayed one of the finest collections in 
 Europe, arranged not only according to their schools, but also in chronological 
 prder: Amongst other fine and valuable pictures, is the celebrated one of Titian's 
 Daughter! . . , 
 
 In the rear of the Museum, and connected with it by a covered bridge, carried 
 over a street on columns, is the New Museum, designed by Stuler. It contains 
 d vast and fine collection of Egyptian antiquities, brought from the Palace of 
 Monbijou, and a great number of ethnological subjects, in a series of apartments 
 that accord well with the various objects they contain. On the first floor is a 
 valuable collection of casts, and on the second drawings and engravings. 
 
 No. 33. — Granite Vase, 
 
 Formed from a vast isolated boulder, found in the midst of a sandy plain^ at 
 Fiirstenwald, about thirty miles from Berlin. This remarkable mass of granite, 
 said to have weighed 75 tons, was called the great Markgrafenstein. It was 
 brought to the city by water, and was there cut and polished by steam machinery. 
 The vase, which is in very good taste, is 22 feet in diameter. 
 
 No. 34. — Lust Garten, 
 
 A large garden surrounded by trees, formerly the parade ground or the gigantic 
 grenadiers of Frederick the Great, ■whose evolutions the King used to witness 
 
15 
 
 \vitli mucK delight from one of the windows of the palace. It is decorated with 
 a handsome fountain, also with a statue of Prince Anhalt Dessau, one of the 
 organizers of the Prussian Army. The latter is of white Carrara marble on a 
 pedestal, adorned with has reliefs and inscriptions, the work of Schadon. 
 
 iVo. S5.—New Custom House^ 
 
 A building originally erected in the time of Frederick the Great, as an orangery, 
 and used as such in his lifetime ; when in good order, and with a garden before 
 it, it doubtless made a handsome appearance. 
 
 No, S6. — Exchange, 
 
 ^ large and convenient building; above which is held the merchants' club and 
 reading room, which is well supplied with the newspapers of all countries. 
 
 No. 37. — Gdrdens of the Palace of Monbijou. 
 
 Monbijou was erected by Frederic William II. for his queen, and wag a most 
 beautiful place, well deserving of the name he gave it. When Peter the Great 
 visited Berlin, it was assigned as his residence ; but such were the filthy habits 
 pf the monarch and his suite, that on his departure it had to be completely 
 tenovated before the queen could return to it. The building is extensive, but so 
 low that it is nearly hidden by the surrounding trees. It was appropriated latterly 
 to the reception of the vast collection of antiquities forming the Egyptian Museum 
 (iiow removed to the new building), and other works of art. 
 
 No. 39. — River Spree, 
 
 A small and sluggish stream, navigable only for small craft, this portion being 
 one of its widest parts. It takes its rise in Lusace, and after winding through the 
 plain of Berlin, traverses the city in three streams, from which also there are 
 several small canals. Towards the east, about fifty miles nearer its source, it 
 communicates by means of a canal with the Oder and the Baltic, and thus bringa 
 to Berlin the mineral productions of Upper Silesia, and the corn and manufactures, 
 of Lower Silesia. To the westward it joins the Havell, under the fortifications of 
 Spandau. The Havell flowing into the Elbe, a communication is thus formed with 
 Hamburg and the German Ocean. The river frequently presents a very black 
 and stagnant appearance, the water being confined by many locks to enable the 
 numerous boats that navigate it to reach tlie city : bad as it looks, however, it is 
 invaluable to the inhabitants, riot only as a vehicle of commerce but as a means 
 of cleanliness. In its most dignified part; where it sweeps round the palace, is a 
 large mill worked by the water, when there is sufilcient, and at other times b^ 
 steam, so that his Majesty has the full benefit of both noise and smoke. About 
 half-a-mile above the long bridge the river branches out to the right and left irt 
 two pretty considerable streams, which, after making semicircular sweeps on either 
 side, fall into it again below Frederick's Bridge, thus enclosing an irregular circle 
 about four miles in circumference, crossed through the centre by the main river. 
 The two islands thus formed were the original town, or Berlin Proper, until the 
 time of the Elector Frederick William. The river is crossed in various parts 
 within the walls by thirty-seven bridges of stone, iron and wood : several are very 
 insignificant, and but very few worthy of notice ; two of the best are seen right 
 and left. Although at so great a distance from the sea the level of the Spree is 
 only 127 feet above it, 
 
 iVb, 40. — Fredericlc's Bridge, 
 
 A somewhat handsome stiucture, 245 feet long, with seven arches. At its farther 
 extremity may be seen Hercules' Bridge, crossing the arm of the river, near its 
 junction with the main stream, and leading into Prasidenten Street. It is orna- 
 mented with sphinx, and in the centre with two statues of Hercules. The trees 
 seen beyond are a public promenade. 
 
16 
 
 No. 44. — Garrison Church, 
 A building of no great merit but of very considerable size, being the largest cburch 
 m Berlin. It is decorated with paintings by Rhode, representing the deaths of 
 several of the principal commanders in the seven years' war, also with colours 
 standards, and other trophies of Prussian valour. On the walls are tablets, bearing 
 a list of those who fell in the war of liberation, 1813-1815. A similar memori^ 
 IS found m almost every parish church in Prussia, with this simple inscription 
 " Ihey died for their King and Fatherland." The soldiers in garrison- regularlv 
 attend this church. & j 
 
 No. 46. — St. Mary's Church, 
 
 A handsome structure, 211 feet in length by 99 in width, with a rather remarkable 
 steeple, rising to the height of 292 feet. The church contains a finely carved 
 pulpit of alabaster ; also the tomb of the celebrated Kanitz. To the right of 
 St. Mary's is St. George's Church. 
 
 No. 50. — Parochial Church, 
 A small church, like all the older ones in Berlin, exhibiting but little external 
 beauty. It is built in the form of a cross, and is 102 feet in length by 51 in 
 breadth. The steeple contains a set of thirty- seven carillons, which play every 
 quarter-of-an-hour, by means of clockwork : they were brought from Holland and 
 cost 12,000 florins. To the left is the French church, another small inelegant 
 building ; and between the two is the low black turret of the Town hall, a buildm"- 
 of no pretence, erected in 1583. - 
 
 No. 51.— St Nicholas'' Church, 
 
 The most ancient church in Berlin, said to have been erected in the year 1223 
 at the time of the earliest settlement on the spot. It certainly exhibits great 
 antiquity, which is its only recommendation, for its barn-like appearance, and 
 low sharp spire, are not much superior to those of a common English village 
 church. It contains a few very ancient pictures, more remarkable for their 
 singularity than their beauty, also some curious monuments of the 15th and 
 16th centuries, and the tomb of the celebrated Puffendorf, the historian, who died 
 in Berlin in 1690. 
 
 No. 53 — Long Bridge. 
 
 The long or great bridge is of stone, 170 feet long, and of five arches, and is 
 ornamented with marine figures. On one side stands a statue of the Elector 
 Frederick William, erected by his son in 1703. It is by Schlatter, and is a work 
 of considerable merit. 
 
 Printed by W. J. Goj,bourK( 6, Princes Street, Leicester Sqtiar*.