* v | , Via . — ■±L- »V 'Mim '?':, '.'H P -M'Arh- •‘X - J5 ^ , c „ c y V "a, *- Vi , • ^ v ■ - — -i v_ v' f*. <, v \ "'S’*^. / i Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/travelsininterioOOhard ► ASJBan C//C/ •flieJ’aioJ £X PL AX A TI O N saik (le Haro aiuthors Jloutr Cities ue,leJ3Ktior- Volledel CHIHUAHU/ .ElTrigo Purall . do Mapimi I?)S , ?Catalina BUHANGO.^ 5' West. '’sSFresnfllo LUCAS S.Luis Potosi ■ft.Lugos janaxuato OBSER VAT IONS During the Northerly Winds ( to the Northward ot the Port of Guaymns J which prevail/ tram, the latter end' of October till the month of May. the Currents set with the Wind . The Southerly Winds commence in MayJb therewith the Southerly Currents . To the North- qUKRETARO i^Santa he /->• SOZRall, w ‘ TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF MEXICO, IN 1825, 1826, 1827, & 1828. BY LIEUT. R. W. H. HARDY, R. N. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1829. LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY. Dorset Street, Fleet Street. PREFACE. So much has, within these few years, become known of Mexico, through the writings of various intelligent individuals, that the present might almost be considered a presumptuous undertaking, to in- crease the already large stock of knowledge respect- ing that republic ; and the more so, as the Author’s recent return to England, and constant occupation since his arrival, have not permitted him the gra- tification of perusing the works of preceding tra- vellers, which probably might have prevented him from falling into some errors of repetition. As the writer of the following pages, however, travelled over a part of Mexico visited by no other Euro- IV PREFACE. pean, he trusts that the Public will bestow upon this attempt to interest them, that indulgence which may be due, not indeed to his merit, but to his good intentions. London, October, 1829. ADVERTISEMENT TO THE READER. The reader, perhaps, will have no reason to regret the omission of those various minutiae so inseparable from the annoyances of a sea-voyage, nor be displeased that I commence my travels from the city of Mexico, without conveying him over the intolerably bad roads from Vera Cruz, where I landed, to the capital. It may be enough to observe, that if jolting be indeed good for a bilious constitution, there could be devised no surer “ road to health ” than the one I have here alluded to : it may, however, be as well that I should enter into a brief statement of the peculiar objects that took me to Mexico, distinct from those of mere amusement and curiosity; namely, that I was en- gaged in the capacity of a commissioner, by “ the General Pearl and Coral Fishery Association of VI ADVERTISEMENT. London,” — (a subject to which I shall have occasion hereafter to advert). This commission embraced a period from the 7th May 1825 to the 7th May 1828, both days inclusive, as a good accountant would take care to observe. It is yet too early in the day to state the ulti- mate success or failure of this undertaking, as a “ Statement” will hereafter appear which details the whole business. I would not, therefore, wish that my readers should draw any conclusions at present, which, on farther inquiry, may turn out quite contrary to the exact state of the case, and which would occasion me no small disappointment, especially as it might be no easy matter to re- move opinions hastily formed, and too often firmly adhered to. Moreover, as it may be safely con- cluded that the enterprise was either successful or unfortunate, I would by no means have the Public, whether scientific or curious, give them- selves one moment’s fruitless uneasiness about the results, but leave them to the clear and satisfactory eclair cissement of Their devoted servant. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The Chief Mexican Hotel. — Assassination. — Association of Gamblers. — First Impressions.— Filth of the lower classes of people, and their habitations. — The Streets and Environs. — Visit to the Palace. — Sketch of some of the Public Men. — Negociation with the Government for the Pearl Fishery. — A rival. — Difficulties overcome. — The Author obtains a License, and receives his Passport for the Gulf of California. Page 1 — 22 CHAPTER II. The Author quits Mexico. — Santa Fe. — Seven crosses. — Pain- ful sensations. — Lerma. — Volcan de Toluca. — Deference paid to military Men. — Mexican curiosity. — Singular Adventure. — Real de Tlalpuhagua. — Bull Fights. — Caterpillars. — Vein of Obsidian. — Village of Ucareo. — Curious Illusion. — Amusements. — The Fandango. — Mine of Ozumatlan. — City of Charo. — A Character. — Arrival at Valladolid — Fashionable Ball. — General M . — Iturbide. — Effects of the Revolution 23 — 44 CHAPTER III. The Author calls upon the Governor. — Congress-hall. — A Joe Miller. — Quits Valladolid. — A Cura. — Fords the Rio Grande. — Hospitality. — The Waterfalls of Puente, Grande. — Family disturbances. — Guadalaxara. — An invitation. — Christ- CONTENTS. viii mas feasts. — Society. — A Beauty.— A laughing Colonel. — Leaves Guadalaxara. — Suspicious Characters. — Sugar Planta- tions. — Passes the Real of Ostostapaquillo. — Precipices. — Beauty of the Scenery. — A Procurador. — A Poet. — Arrives at Pitic 4.5 — 63 CHAPTER IV. Diving Bell, — Native gold. — Quits Pitic. — A Genius. — A ferry. — Sheep-ticks. — Rio Canas. — The inhospitality of a Gaoler, and of a Cura. — Curious fruit. — Sympathy in plants. — An old Eng- lishman. — Modesty. — Character of Don Miguel Riesgo. — A gold mine. — A chemist. — Leaves Rosario. — Arrives at Mazatlan. — The Commandant and his wife 64 — 82 CHAPTER V. A wreck. — Servants refuse to embark. — A cabin passenger. — A surveyor.— -New mode of admeasurement. — Arrival at the Port of Guaymas.’ — A tender Captain. — A songstress. — The founder of the Port. — Reptiles. — Revolution of Indians. — Quits Guaymas. — A rencontre. — A discovery. — Arrives at Pitic. — New Characters. — Opinions respecting pearl-beds in the Gulf. — An Italian Priest. — A wooden diving-bell. — Extravagan- ces.— A portrait. — Abuses 83 — 102 CHAPTER VI. Atrocious murder. — Party spirit. — Assassins escape punish- ment. — Intentions defeated. — Leaves Pitic. — Hospitality. — Let- ters of introduction. — A patient. — Antidotes for Hydro- phobia. — Jesuits. — An injurious law. — A Monster. — A singular mineral vein. — The Devil’s Leap. — Jasper. — Pumice and other stones. — A valley 103 — 133 CHAPTER VII. Arrives at Oposura. — Mines. — Danger of entering old mines. — A lair. — Black pearls. — Fables. — Technicalities. — Arrival of Company’s vessels at Guaymas. — Reasons for not at present embarking. — Leaves Oposura. — Extraordinary aperture of the CONTENTS. IX river. — A Cottage. — Information. — Thermometer 101°. — Pi- nole. — A singular Priest. — A female Statuary.- — Intoxicating effects of heat. — Rebellion again breaks out. — The country in arms. — Opata valour. — A friar’s philosophy. — Tumult,— Paint- ings of a church. — Arrives at los Alamos 134 — 170 CHAPTER VIII. Mode of irrigating lands. — Political changes ; seldom at- tempted by the rich. — Amusements. — A gambling anecdote. — Mineral wealth, and transactions of the Real.— Quits Alamos. — Arrives at La Villa del Fuerte. — Patriotism. — Character of the Governor. — Political schisms. — Orders that no person should quit the town. — Alarms. — Defeat of Colonel Guarrero. — A panic. — “ A warrior bold.” — A deputy. — Empiric. — A case. — A post- man murdered. — Leaves Fuerte, passes the late field of battle, and arrival at Alamos.— Confusion. — Banderas. — Wounds. — Ef- fect of fear upon the timid. — Retribution — Remonstrance. — A seat of learning. — A discovery for diving; it dies with the in- ventor. — A conversation upon the subject 71 — 204 CHAPTER IX. Provisions. — Society. — Quits Alamos. — A mineral spring. — A real friend in distress. — A nostrum. — Arrives at Buenavista. — Controversy. — A guide. — Privations. — A dangerous Pass. — Ene- my in view. — Difficulties. — Cause of dreams. — Cactus. — In danger of starvation. — Intricacies. — Consolation. — Arrives at Guaymas. — Alarms. — Petitions. — A vessel arrives. — Embarks in the Wolf, and proceeds to sea 205 — 230 CHAPTER X. Translation of documents, &c. relating to the Pearl Fishery, — A general outline. — Cause of the Fishery’s decay. — Arrives at Loreto — The Virgin deprived of her jewels. — A great genius. — Influence of habit upon the mind. — Colour. — Morals. — Fatal effects of dried figs. — Salt. — List of known pearl-beds. — A Pass. — La Paz. — Embarks in the Bruja ; sails from Loreto on a voyage of discovery. — Investigates the Gulf of Molexe. — The Author be- X CONTENTS. comes a diver. — Effects of pressure of the water on the fine vessels of the ears and eyes. — The imagination, how effected. — Sea-monsters. — Oyster’s power of locomotion. — Reason why neither diving-bell nor drags can be beneficially employed in the Gulf. — Deception of the senses. — Fissures in the submarine rocks. — Diver's mode of defence. — Stimulating effects of hope. — A submarine adventure 231 — 260 CHAPTER XI. A nocturnal fight with a lion. — -An ebbing and flowing well. — The Depoa tree. — Singular hunts. — Quits the Gulf of Molexe, and arrives at the Mission. — The harbour. — A curious friar. — State of the Indians. — Advantages of equality. — A visit. — A tottering cavalcade. — Delicate attentions. — Leaves Molexe. — Island of San Marcus. — Wild goats. — Talc. — The Islands of Sal si Puedes. — Arrives at the Island of Tiburon. — A singular cure. — A delicate artist. — Fresh-water. — Ghosts 261 — 288 CHAPTER XII. The Tiburon Indians resemble a Patagonian tribe. — Search after pearls and native gold. — Canoes. — Discovers a bay and an island. — Padre Kino. — Witches. — Turtle. — Concha naca. — An amusement. — Method of poisoning arrows. — One thousand men sent to subdue the Tiburon Indians. — Their good qualities. — Sails from, the island. — Seals. — Manuscript charts ceased to be useful. — Goes on shore. — Discovers a new island. — Meditations. — A horrid fight. — Birds. — Flies. — Crabs, a curious contrivance. — Effects of solitude upon the animal spirits 289 — 311 CHAPTER XIII. Crew in danger of Shipwreck. — Obstinacy saves the vessel. — Discovers another new island. — A second attempt to find the Rio Colorado. — Chaotic confusion of the sea. — Discovers a new bay. — Storm continues. — Anchors in the mouth of the Red Ri- ver. — Superstition. — Alarm. — Visits the shore and gives names to two new islands. — Ascends the river. — Carry away the rudder. — Tide. — Ground. — River Gila.— -Flies.-— Banks of the river. — CONTENTS. XI Aa attempt made in the year 1 750 to form a colony. — 111 success attending it. — Indian philosophy. — Ruins. — Investigates the river above. — Indians. — Nectar. — Harangue. — Two blind In- dians. — A fishing-net and earthen jars. — An island. — Returns to the vessel. — Visit from naked Indians. — Prepares for action. — Mosquitoes troublesome at night 312 34*1 CHAPTER XIV. Indians ; their rural garbs. — An interpreter. — A message. — A second interpreter. — A warlike speech. — A great Indian chief. — Indians congregate round the vessel. — Their designs detect- ed. — A witch. — A rough salutation. — The witch’s sang-froid. — The Author rejects the Indian chief’s proposals. — Superiority of civilized life over that of savages. — Another attempt discovered. — A singular visit of ceremony. — Gains the witch. — Her song of enchantment. — Dismisses the Indians. — Adopts fresh methods of defence. — The vessel again floats in mid-channel. — Reflections. — A tender visitant. — Indian children. — The Axua nation; their peculiarities, &c. described 342 — 373 CHAPTER XV. Effects of currents in the river. — A large fire. — Indians ap- pear, one of whom speaks to us. — A message. — A visit. — Another fire. —Falling of the banks at night. — Fluctuations of the tide, — A suspicious character. — A blank-cartridge fired. — More Indians. — Their gout. — The capitan. — The vessel descends the river. — The absence of a chronometer felt. — Notice respect- ing names given to points in the Californian gulf and Rio Colo- rado. — Bruja quits the river. — Inutility of advice. — Names some new islands. — Equinoctial gales of September Arrives at Guay- mas. — Yaqui revolution not terminated. — Juan de la Bandera. — His eloquence. — His activity. — His achievements — His teme- rity. — Progress of his affairs. — His policy. — Captures goods valued at 30,000/. — He is attacked. — Pursues his object. — Sends effects over to the Tiburon island. — A marriage. — Pole- mical discussion. — Naval Cadets. — A facetious remark respect- ing matrimony ..... 374 —402 Xll CONTENTS, CHAPTER XVI. Exportations and Importations. — Reasons for discontinuing the Pearl Fishery. — Arrangements. — Quits Guaymas. — Ex- change no robbery. — Nature and man change sides. — An expe- dient. — Author’s indisposition. — Effects of the Indian revolu- tion. — A gallant Colonel. — Bandera’s policy. — Copper mines. — Chinese method. — Effects of gold upon the mind. — Reports. — Thorax. — Diseases. — Anecdotes. — Charcoal pills. — Cures the bite of the rattle-snake. — Sonora and Senaloa : its placeres de oro. — Qualities of that metal, and aggregate produce. — Arizona. — Las Cartas de los Jesuitas The Arizona investigated. — Mines ; a singular one incapable of being worked. — Productions. — State of Finance. — Salaries. — Expenses occasioned by the Yaqui war. — Effects of the independence. — Mexican’s fears of enriching Europe. — Indian tribes. — The Opata language, poetry, and dances. — Rivers. — Soil. — Insalubrity of the waters. — Dis- eases. — A contradiction. — Proportion of whites to Indians ; of men to women. — Lower California, its climate and productions. — Upper California. — A new way to pay old debts. . . 403 — 449 CHAPTER XVII. Leaves Oposura. — Prevention better than cure. — Usual food of cattle. — The roads. — Saints.— Cochineal. — Foreigners. — Pa- tients, — 'Hospitality. — A singular case. — Termination of La Sierra Madre. — North American traders. — Liquor. — Bears. — A rich mine. — Bark of the wild cherry equal to the bark of p eru . — Morality. — El Cobre. — A hot spring. — Ruins. — Wild Dogs. — A Cavern. — Pit-coal. — A singular earth. — Wit. — Mines. — Creadero de oro. — Real del Parral. — A fight. — Soap. — Arrives at Chihuahua. — A curious fellow. — Cathedral. — Jesus Maria. — An Anecdote.— An Expedient. — Mode of sowing maize. — A mass of iron. — The Arts. — Hacienda de la Zarca. — Another odd fellow.— Cotton. — A Mine. — A Friar. — State of peasantry. — Ha- cienda for sale.— A Robber. — A French Marquise. — Strong food. — Arrives at Zacatecas. — Jalap. — A pretended Friar. — The so il,_A Philosopher. — The Sheffield of Mexico.— A saint pedlar 450 — 498 CONTENTS. Xlll CHAPTER XVII 1. Arrives at Guanaxuato. — A Widow. — A Church. — Dysentery. — General Mina. — An Inscription. — The two most fanatical towns in Mexico — Hints respecting Bugs. — Industry and mo- desty. — Snow-capped mountains. — Love of Natural History.— Intrigue. — The Tertulia. — Merit rewarded. — Parties. — General Bravo. — The Quadro Historico. — Passing a law. — Mines. — Li- berty of the Press. — Police. — Indians. — A censure. — A brief sketch of the resources, &c. of the Republic. — Quits the city of Mexico. — Pressure of the atmosphere at different elevations. — Embarks at Vera Cruz. — Island of Sacrificios ; Tio Antonio. — Passengers. — St. Vitus’s dance. — Arrives in the United States. — Comparison. — Quits the United States, and arrives in Eng- land 499 — 594 Appendix 535 — 540 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Map of Sonora and Gulf of California. Game of Monte, in the streets of Mexico . To face Title-page. 35 Pilgrimage performed in Mexico 73 Mexican Cavallero 241 Plan of the Rio Colorado 320 Morning salutations in Mexico 369 Water Carrier in Mexico 469 An Evangelista, or Letter-Writer in the Haza Grande ofMexico . 506 VIGNETTES. Indian Music Ancient Mexican jar 359 & 441 . 465 ERRATA. Page 13, line 3, for 4 Painsett, 3 read 4 Poinsett.’ — 80, — 2, — ‘ Guayamas,’ — 4 Giiaymas.’ — 93, — 1, ‘ Adnana,’ •— ‘Aduana.’ — 106, — 6, ‘ not no indifferent,’ — 4 not an indifferent.’ — 108, — 27, — 4 creaderos des oro,’ — 4 creatjero de oro.’ — 123, — 15, — 4 Penou,’ — 4 Peuon. 5 — 125, — 11, — 4 Tesmetuca,’ — 4 Tesmeluca.’ — 205, — 12, — - ‘nine or ten shillings,’ — 4 nine or ten dollars.’ — 209, ■ — 24, — 4 Toriu,* — ‘Torin.’ — 224, — 30, — * supplied with eagerness,’ — 4 applied with eagerness.’ — 4 Tiburon. 3 — 227, — • 2, — — 4 Tiburow,’ — 239, — 25, — 4 Carmina,’ — 4 Carmin.’ — 256, — 5, — ‘ ten inches or a foot,’ — 4 two or three fathoms.’ — 289, — 1, — 4 Tiburow.’ — 4 Tiburon.’ — 364, — 12, — 4 countenance,’ — 4 complexion.’ — 371, — 29, — 4 for motives, 3 — . * from motives.* — 378, ■ — - 7, — S 4 the stern,’ — 4 the stem.’ — 379, — 14, 4 when it did arrive,’ — 4 when it should arrive.’ — 386, — 15, — 4 estero,’ — 4 estuary.’ — 393, — 10, — 4 Santa Kita,* — 4 Santa Rita. 3 — 395, — 11, — 4 cosnider,’ — 4 consider.’ — 396, — 30, — 4 poisonous missals,’ — * poisoned missiles.’ — 407, — 21, — * Los Arrieso.%’ — 4 Los Arrieros.’ — 408, — 24. — 4 La Alanita,’ — 4 La Alamita.’ — 436, 22, 4 Indeed it would appear that they have been fearful of too much enriching Europe and North America by the restrictions which they have laid on com- merce. — 4 Indeed it would appear, by the restrictions which have been laid on com- merce, that they are fear- ful of too much enrich- ing Europe and North America.’ — 438, — 11, — 4 Yamas,’ — 4 Yumas.’ — 446, — 464, — 9, — ‘ Los tres Virgines,’ — 4 Las tres Virgines.’ — 21, — 1 4 Rio delosCasaGrandes,’ — 4 Rio delas Casas Grandes.’ — 486, — '487, — 16 , — 4 corga,’ — 4 carga.’ — 7, — 4 mason,’ — ■ 4 meson.* — 488, — 18, — 4 Los Canas,’ — 4 Las Cauas.’ ; — 494, — 8, — 4 Piedoagorda,’ — 4 Piedragorda.’ — 50J , — 28, — 4 Lerara,’ — 4 Lerma.’ — 503, — 19, — 4 El Pareo, — 4 El Paseo.* — 506, • — 2, — 4 Teporatlan,’ *— 4 Tepozatlan.’ — 506, — 9, — 4 Tarepantla,’ — 4 Tanepantla.’ — 507, — 1, — 4 Mr. Graves,’ — 4 Mr. G eaves.’ — 509, — 25, — 4 Meehotitlan,’ — 4 Meehotitlan.’^ — 512, — 6, — 4 Don Andreo,’ — 4 Don Andies. TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF MEXICO. CHAPTER I. The chief Mexican Hotel. — Assassination. — Association of Gamblers. — First Impressions. — Filth of the lower classes of people, and their habitations. — The Streets and Environs. — Visit to the Palace. — Sketch of some of the Public Men. — Negociation with the Government for the Pearl Fishery. — A rival Difficulties overcome. — The Author obtains a License and receives his Passport for the Gulf of California. Who is there that has not found fault with a prosy book of travels : for it requires no talent to find fault, as even I have been guilty of this misde- meanor, little dreaming that it would ever come to my own turn to excite the same feeling ? Take, then, good reader, this gentle admonition to thine B 2 CHIEF MEXICAN HOTEL. own heart, and, though it should cost thee some effort to be silent, remember that “ To err is mortal, to forgive divine !” With this little preliminary observation, I shall sit myself down in the “ Gran Sociedad” of Mexico, which some call “ Suciedad,” the one being society, and the other dirtiness ; and we will enter on an examination of its structure, appropriation, and con- veniences, all being essential to complete the picture. There is, indeed, in this building, no want either of light or shade, any more than in the character of many of those who frequent it, as will be seen here- after ; and, as it is the principal hotel in Mexico, no excuse could warrant the omission of a notice so important to travellers, and so characteristic of a Mexican Sociedad. This important edifice occupies the corner of the two streets of the Espiritu Santo and del Refugio, which run at right angles to each other. The latter conducts from the Plaza Grande, occupied on one side by the Cathedral of Mexico, on another by the Palace, on a third by the Portal de las Flores, and on the fourth by the Parian ; and this Sociedad stands in the second square of buildings, to the westward from the Plaza Grande. In front, General Moran, the Ex-Marquis de Vivanco (who has been obliged to leave his country, owing to the civil war of opinion which has for some time past distracted it,) has a house ; and adjoining it, to the northward, is that of CHIEF MEXICAN HOTEL. 3 the Sieur Zavala, the present Governor of the State of Mexico. I found nothing remarkable in the approach to the Gran Sociedad, or prepossessing in its external ap- pearance. Great improvements, however, have lat- terly been made in it, keeping pace with the march of taste ; and it now looks far more inviting than it did at the period to which I refer — the 17th July, 1825. It is a large and nearly square building, of two stories high, having the principal entrance in the Calle del Espiritu Santo, through a double doorway, large enough to admit a coach. Within this, at the distance of about five yards, is a second doorway, composed of iron, partly closed, of the same descrip- tion as those in London, placed in situations where only foot passengers are admitted, having a strong iron bar in the centre of the pass to prevent the in- trusion of porters with luggage. Immediately on passing this second barrier, the visitor finds himself in an interior paved square of considerable dimen- sions, surrounded on three sides by columns, support- ing a flat roof, which below serves for a covering, or portal, and above for a balcony. The columns, once adorned with whitewash, were now arrayed in all the splendour of a greasy brown, from the fre- quent application of dirty hands. Under the portal to the left, is placed a long painted table, with an equally long bench towards the wall ; and this is for the accommodation of those visitors who wish to take their coffee and smoke their cigars in more peaceful b 2 4 ASSASSINATION. tranquillity out of doors. There is on the same side a door, which leads to the largest room in the house* over which is written “ Cafe,” and in which, of an evening, the whole world of beauty and fashion assemble to take ice, &c. It is not many months since a Mexican gentleman entered this room with his wife and daughters, for the purpose of indulging in this innocent luxury. The waiter was however insolent, and the gentleman was expressing his anger, when an officer of the army placed himself between the disputants and struck the gentleman on the breast. The blow did not appear to be violent, and was so sudden that few observed the action ; the gentleman, however, instantly fell down and ex- pired ! Upon inquiring into the cause, it was found that he had been stabbed to the heart with a knife. The horror and distress of the family who were eye- witnesses of this act of barbarity, may be better con- ceived than described. The officer was taken into custody, but persisted in saying that he had merely struck the deceased with his open hand Immediately fronting this room, on the other side of the square, is a billiard-table, where only the best and deepest players are allowed to exhibit their dexterity, and to witness which great num- bers assemble of an evening. At the end of this room, towards the street, is another of smaller di- mensions, dark, dirty, and dismal; and farther on, a third, wherein are placed little painted tables, for the convenience of such as desire to take choco- late. Here, too, numbers assemble of an evening, SUBJECTS OF CONVEKSATION. 5 before the theatre opens, to .talk and pass an idle hour. Many a speech of an hour’s length have I heard here, without having been either instructed or fatigued by it ; so desultory, and at the same time so eloquent, were the speakers. Sound reasoning, indeed, is seldom heard in Mexico, and never duly appreciated, as all may know who have attended the sittings of the General Congress and Senate. But that degree of animated volubility, rather than eloquence, which gives smoothness to a sentence, without conveying any precise meaning, is by no means uncommon in Mexico, even amongst those of the lowest class of society. Yet as I do not mean to follow up this subject by a dissertation, I shall only mention, that the chief food for conversation in this apartment, is furnished by two periodical papers, the “ Sol” and the “ Aguila,” which, even at this period, were the organs of the two parties that have since been so destructive to the tranquillity of the country. Let us now take a review of the up-stairs apart- ments, without noticing sundry little rooms, on the ground-floor, of less notoriety. The stairs by which you ascend to the former are of brick. At the top, are two corridors which lead to the dining-room, on the left, and forward to the “ Sala,” which is chiefly supported by a party of gamblers, who without producing any money, have a settling-day as is the case on our Stock Exchange, only that theirs is once a month instead of quarterly. The other rooms on the same floor are occupied by billiard- 6 A MEXICAN COOK. tables, at which the balls are allowed no tranquillity from eleven o’clock in the morning till eleven at night, and their continual rattle gives one the idea of entering a carpenter’s workshop, where the mallet and chisel are in constant requisition ; but which impression is quickly destroyed by the mo- notonous voice of the marker, crying out, “ viente y quartro y guego,” (twenty-four and the game,) in a tone which conveys no sound of harmony to the loser ! This hotel is not provided with a table-d’hote ; but the dining-room, which is honoured with its name “ Comedor,” inscribed over the entrance, is furnished with a long table, covered generally by a greasy cloth, where the cravings of the appetite may be appeased for a dollar and a quarter, wine extra, as saith the bill of fare. It is true, the viands are not of the most tempting kind, nor indeed are they cooked in the cleanest way : but every one recon- ciles himself with the reflection, that “ it is good enough for a sociedad.” The cook herself is indeed a hornament, as a cockney would say ; and in truth, I know of no regular word which might at all suit the subject. She may be an amiable creature, for any thing I know to the contrary ; but if dirty linen, feet without shoes or stockings, a face covered with brilliant semispheres, reflecting the fire like a sort of moveable reverberating furnace ; hair as dishe- velled as that of a Gorgon, and not remarkable cleanliness ; hands which had never been washed SLEEPING APARTMENTS. 7 since she took possession of her office ; and delicate lips, which only half- concealed a set of black and decayed teeth, and which confined within their tender grasp a paper-cigar, whose smoke found an exit only through her gently-expanding nostrils ; add to all which qualifications, a skin and com- plexion like an olive, and quite as greasy ; if this lovely picture of Eve has charms for my reader, let him hasten to this glittering land of mines, where he will scarcely find a kitchen which cannot present a living original, whereof this, I confess, is but a faint sketch ! At the back of the “ comedor ” are four sleeping- rooms, up one pair of stairs, the only furniture of which consists of a painted board bedstead, an old chair, and a table. Of these four I chose the best, and had presently the bed which I had brought from on ship-board made up, my trunks placed in convenient situations, and the room swept out by my servant, as the hotel is not supposed to have an officer to per- form this necessary duty ; or which, by the by, is not necessary, if the lodger has no objection to the filth of the brick-floor and perforated mud-walls, said to be white-washed, and having wreaths of flowers painted at the top, and at about the height of the back of a chair from the bottom, which certainly add greatly to the horrible effect. Let it, however, be recollected, that this is the best hotel in Mexico — and I leave my reader to judge what the others must be ! 8 FILTH OF THE LOWER CLASSES After having satisfied my appetite with a couple of dainty dishes at the public table below, I pro- posed to myself to take a walk. Not having any objection to change the scene, I walked to the right and left without any object ; and although it was Sunday, the number of people whom I passed in the streets, wearing neither shoes nor stockings, and many even without shirts, with a sort of dirty blanket carelessly thrown over their shoulders, did not fail to awaken many painful reflections. Is it possible, thought I, that in a land which nature has made her hoard, and man her heir, that the fruits of her gifts should be productive only of abject misery, or at least, of such individual abandonment as is here seen, which renders man the most pitiable object of the creation and the most miserable of his kind ? On passing through the streets, I observed little apart- ments (originally intended to be occupied by coaches) filled with women, more than half-naked, and men sprawling on the floor from the effects of inebriation. The children were perfectly naked. Some of the women were engaged in grinding, on a stone, Indian corn, which was presently converted by another hand, into a sort of pancake, called Tortilla, and which is considered a gi'eat delicacy in Mexico ! This city is decidedly one of the handsomest I have ever seen. None but good houses are built in the principal streets, and their external colour varies from white to yellow and dark red ; so that, in fact, the poor can find a residence only in the coach-house AND THEIE HABITATIONS. 9 department, which opens into the street, and which henceforth becomes the receptacle of vice and wretch- edness, too disgusting to be faithfully described. In- finitely more impure are the environs : they are horribee. If Humboldt, when he paid a visit to the city of Mexico, had examined it with the eyes of a humane philosopher, and had represented it in its unadorned colours, how much disappoint- ment would have been spared to travellers and to Europe ! I know not whether the writer of a book of travels is justified in entering into all these reflections ; but as I desire to give, where I deem it allowable, a faith- ful description of all I saw, and of my own feelings on the subject, I must beg the reader to bear with my errors. Having now more than sufficiently gratified my curiosity, as far as regarded streets, squares, and churches, I went in search of Messrs. Exter, Geaves, and Co., having a letter of introduction to the gen- tleman at the head of the firm, and was fortunate enough to find them at home, living in a remarkably neat house, adorned with a profusion of plants and flowers in the interior corridor, and apparently pos- sessing all the comforts which Mexico is capable of furnishing. Not knowing a Single individual in this city, it was no small relief to be able to converse with a countryman ; and I returned in the evening to my own melancholy quarters, with no very posi- tive feelings of content. CJ 10 VISIT TO THE PALACE. As soon next morning as my servant came, I sent him to purchase a wash-hand basin and jug ; for the state of destitution in which these hotels are kept is quite lamentable. Having however completed the operations of the toilet, I went to breakfast with Mr. Exter, who was afterwards so obliging as to accompany me to the Palace, where he obtained for himself and me an introduction to the President, General Guadaloupe Victoria. This gentleman is of ordinary stature, and whether it was from his bad state of health, or the cloak which he wore, I know not, his appearance certainly did not convey the idea, that he possessed that high military feeling and energy which should belong to a man who had been placed by the suffrages of a whole nation in so exalted a situation. He received us, however, with courtesy, read my letters, and expressed the current compliments of the country. After having given a reply (of course a satisfactory one) to his question of how I liked Mexico, we took our leave and went in search of Mr. Alaman, the then Minister for Home and Foreign Affairs, and managing director of a Mining Association, situations which, to me, appeared a little incompatible with each other ; and so the President afterwards thought. I wish not to be understood as making any personal allusions, either in this place or in any other, where I may comment upon incongruities, or the consequences of them : I desire only to bring my countrymen into that train of thought and reasoning, which may be most con- PUBLIC CHARACTERS. 11 ducive to their advantage or convenience ; not ima- gining that I am exempted from those prejudices which adhere to us so firmly, or that I am possessed of that superiority of mind which should affix the stamp of law to my opinions. Every writer must be guided by his own great or little measure of talent, and every reader will, of course, reject what- ever he conceives to be preposterous. With this little explanation I shall return to my narrative. We found Mr. Alaman in his ministdrio, and after delivering to him my letters, he requested us to be seated ; and, without looking over the papers, satisfied himself with asking the object of our visit, at the same time assuring us that he would do every thing in his power to serve us. For the present, we were of course satisfied, without attempting to push our " objects too far upon so short an acquaintance. Ac- cordingly, after apologizing for the interruption, we immediately afterwards departed, not a little gratified with our interview. Mr. Alaman is of short stature, and from his appearance, I should consider him to be under thirty years of age. In conversation, his speech is so remarkably soft and slow, that he gives one the idea of thinking before he speaks ; which, in a Minister, is a requisite of no small importance. The next individual with whom I became ac- quainted, was a gentleman of the name of Espinosa, who passes for a very clever man. Mr. Exter introduced me to him, in order that we might con- 12 PUBLIC CHARACTERS. suit together relative to the exclusive right to fish for pearls and coral, &c. which Mr. Exter and my- self were empowered by our Association to propose to the Mexican Government. As Mr. Espinosa, independent of his being a lawyer, is likewise a senator, we naturally concluded that, by employing this gentleman, we should have two strings to our bow ; but this, like many pretty things in theory, did not exactly answer when put in practice ; but that was no fault of ours. As yet, I knew nothing of Mexico, or of its artifices; and it requires a con- siderable time to ascertain who are the influential individuals of a Government or a country. After this introduction, my acquaintance in Mex- ico increased very rapidly. Living in the Sociedad, which was constantly frequented by men of the first talents and influence in the country, I lost no opportunity of becoming known to them. These introductions are here often accomplished through the friendly medium of a cigar. I soon became acquainted with a person of a singular character and appearance, and who for a time was the most influential person in Mexico, both on account of his great talents and his knowledge of the routine of official business. His good services were afterwards of the greatest possible use to me. The name of this individual is Doctor Miguel Ramos Arispe, an account of whom may be found in the “ Mensagero de Londres,” published by Mr. Ackermann in the Strand, and of whom, therefore, I shall say nothing PUBLIC CHAEACTERS. 13 more, except as it regards the negociation which took me to Mexico. I was, at his house, introduced to Mr. Pain- sett, the Minister from North America, whose name has since been so often mentioned with praise and abuse in the Mexican public papers. I ought earlier to have said, that a few days after my arrival I did myself the honour to call upon Mr. Ward, the English Charg6 d’Affaires, who was very polite, and invited me to dine with him, although I took no letters of introduction to him ; I was afterwards frequently invited to his balls during my stay in the city. I am bound to record this kindness received from a gentleman with whom I had not the slightest pre- vious acquaintance ; especially as he has laid me un- der still farther obligations, by having mentioned me favourably (as I understand, for I have not had leisure to read it,) in his much-admired work on Mexico. Mr. Ward is a very intelligent gentleman, and from his situation must have had excellent means of obtaining information, and I make no doubt his work is exceedingly interesting. I used likewise to attend the balls given by Mr. Painsett, who is a very clever man, gentlemanly in his language and manners, and who has also written a clever work on Mexico. The object of the balls given by these two gentlemen, was to bring the natives and foreigners into more immediate contact, which has a strong tendency to remove at least a portion of those prejudices so natural to those who 14 NEGOCIATIONS WITH GOVERNMENT. have seen little of society, and less of the world ; and it is to be hoped that this intercourse may be attended with all the advantages which have been expected from it. My negociations with the Government led to an acquaintance with General Gomez Pedraza, the Minister of War, and Dr. Pablo de la Llave, Minis- ter of the Hacienda, pro tempore. The former of these gentlemen is considered a good officer and an industrious Minister, although his enemies ac- cuse him of having contributed little towards the establishment of the Independence. Dr. Pablo de la Llave is said to be a good botanist, and to have a tolerable collection of plants. It cannot be denied, however, that he is a man of talent, although it has been questioned by some, who express no friendly feeling towards him, whether his learning and science have ever been usefully employed for his country. In all these matters I cannot be supposed to have any decided opinion of my own ; not only because I know but little personally of these individuals, but also because I cannot feel the same interest in the business as I should do, were I a Mexican. I there- fore merely give, what is called in Spanish, a “ bos- quexo,” in every thing relating to the persons with whom my transactions led me to become acquainted. Hitherto, I had been able to make but little pro- gress in my negociation, as the Government gave me fairly to understand that no steps could be taken in it, till the question of exclusive privileges (in which were also included patents) should be determined by THE PEARL FISHERY. 15 the General Congress investing them with authority to grant such privileges as, in their judgment, might be considered beneficial to the interests of the coun- try, and most productive to their treasury. I was, therefore, in this particular, to use a sailor’s ex- pression, obliged “ to lay on my oars” till this impor- tant question should come on, which could not take place till the ordinary sessions, as they are called, the commencement whereof would not take place till the next sitting of the Congress, for some months to come. It was not, however, prudent to remain totally idle during this long period, and I therefore mixed in Mexican society as much as possible, and in this way obtained not only much valuable information, but also many useful friends, of whom not the least important were Colonel Tornel, Secre- tary to the President, and Mr. Espinosa, (not the gentleman before spoken of) who, for a time, acted in the capacity of Minister of Home and Foreign Relations, after Mr. Alaman went out of office. I discovered also, from another quarter, that a gentleman of the name of Tamariz, a member of the “ Junta de Californias,” had drawn up a plan, which was highly approved by his colleagues, and which, if carried into execution, would most mate- rially affect the privilege of pearl-fishing ; a matter that had occasioned me so many anxious days and nights. The Palace is well known in Mexico, but I be- lieve there are few foreigners who had the means and opportunities of becoming acquainted with all its 16 A RIVAL. secret windings and intricacies equally with myself, during four months’ daily attendance from eight o’clock in the morning until seven at night. This, therefore, led me to a knowledge of many of those designs, which were known but to few, and of which I might for ever have remained ignorant but for this fortunate circumstance. It is not, however, my in- tention to be very diffuse on this subject — I must be an unwilling egotist, and speak only of my own concerns, and of the means which I used for their accomplishment. Finding how affairs stood with my rival, as I had now but too good reason to consider him, it became necessary to seek his acquaintance, and thus be ena- bled, by a study of his character, to judge for my- self what chance he had of meeting with success, and how it would operate against my own ; for I apprehended that we might now be considered as placed in a balance, and that what he gained I should lose. I knew him to be intimate with a per- son of the name of Castrejon, who had been my compagnon de voyage from Falmouth to Vera Cruz, and I therefore obtained an introduction to Tamariz, at the house of his friend. Tamariz is a little, viva- cious, elderly man, a native of Andalusia, in Spain, lame of one leg, and so excessively loquacious that he might be supposed to be the keeper of no secret, how- ever important, longer than the time which might elapse between his hearing it from one person and conversing with another. This is a character both useful and obnoxious ; useful because a sort of ne- ADMIRABLE SPECULATION. 17 cessary evil in an intriguing country— and obnoxious, because a betrayer of all who might be so unhappy as to repose confidence in him. Upon the present occasion, my object required no preliminary open- ing; for he had no sooner heard that I was an Englishman, than his ever-fertile imagination led him to draw conclusions that I must be conversant with East India affairs. He, therefore, lost no time in explaining to me the magnitude of his plan, and how seriously it would affect the interests of the English Company’s trade. It may well be sup- posed that I was not a little startled by the views entertained by my new acquaintance, and that my curiosity to learn the true object of his great scheme should have been completely awakened. To rny great satisfaction, he proposed breakfasting with me the next morning, and promised to make me master of all the arcana of his “ admirable Especidacion /” Nothing could have been more to my wishes ; and of course, I expressed my readiness to hear whatever he might think convenient to impart to me. There was, I confess, something treacherous in suffering my adversary to come to an open confession ; but when I found him so ready to become communi- cative to an utter stranger, I naturally concluded that his great plan would furnish more matter for conversation, than design for absolute execution. Nevertheless, for many reasons, I did not pass a very tranquil night. Morning, however, at length arrived, and with it my new friend, for so he styled himself ; and he came with his pockets filled with important 18 EAST-IN 01 A TRADE. documents. “ A Plan for a national Bank “ A Plan for the Improvement of the Theatre and “ A Plan for the regulation of the Finance De- partment,” were among the foremost. With a smile of self-complacency, he brought out his “ famoso plan,” which was, beyond all doubt, that which had most attractions for me. This momentous matter consisted of a scheme for coloniz- ing Upper California, by native as well as foreign settlers, and of converting it into a general depot for China teas, India silks, &c. combining the united interests of Asia, America, and Europe, and embracing the whole maritime commerce of these quarters of the globe, and including in its mighty grasp, — the Californian pearl fishery, trade of cattle, hides, and tallow, and spermaceti whale-fishery ! No design could have been more wildly splendid ! It was truly worthy of the versatile genius of its author. Impracticable as it was, I had learned that it did not want supporters, even among the most important personages in Mexico ; and it was well calculated to awaken the sleeping ambition and national vanity of his “ conciudadanos but I still thought it by far too heterogeneous for the adoption of any person who possessed the faculty of ratiocina- tion even in the smallest degree : but I was de- ceived! The idea of becoming a great maritime nation, and of eclipsing the English East-India Com- pany, was too glittering an object to be overlooked, and too splendid a bait for rejection. The plan was approved of by the Junta de Californias, and recom- AMBITION. 19 mended by its members to the Government ; its reception by the ministers was so favourable, that they ordered it to be printed, and a copy to be sent to each of the deputies of the General Congress, that they might be prepared to discuss its merits so soon as the ordinary sessions should open. It was not easy to calculate what effect this “ plan ” might have upon the public mind ; for the ideas of the unenlightened are easily worked upon by fancied prospects of future grandeur. There is some- thing irresistibly bewitching and gratifying to self- love, in looking forward to a period of national ri- valry. It is an inherent failing in an uneducated people, to give credence to the marvellous, and to cling to all those absurdities which they deem to be axioms in “Legislation,” “Freedom,” and “Political Economy words which are ever in their mouths, but to which they affix no precise meaning, and which so peculiarly designate a morbid state of feel- ing, an imbecile mind, and a true picture of national poverty, parsimony, and low ambition. With this consideration uppermost in my imagination, I found myself placed in no small dilemma: how to keep my footing was a subject which robbed me of many an hour’s tranquillity and many a night’s sleep. Tainariz, it is true, offered to forego his scheme “for a consideration ” of ten thousand dollars : but I had from the commencement of my negotiation with the Government resolved, that not one dollar should be expended to obtain the privilege I solicited. My only plan therefore was, at present, to take no step 20 SCHEME OF TAMAEIZ. whatever till the heat of the first explosion of enthu- siasm should subside, and then to follow up the charge with a furious attack. There are many in Mexico, who, if these pages should chance to fall into their hands, will recollect the course I adopted, which ultimately crowned my labours with success. For, although it was evident that the Government had no superfluous funds to foment the scheme of Tamariz, yet the hope they might have entertained of being thereafter able to do so, would probably have mate- rially retarded my object, and might possibly indeed have detained me in Mexico during the whole pe- riod for which the company, by whom I was em- ployed, had engaged my services. A detail of the whole of this transaction will afford no entertainment to the reader, and I shall therefore pass it over almost in silence ; merely observing that the arrival of some unknown vessel off the Port of Acapulco favoured my project. Availing myself of the circumstance, I fired off petition after petition, and followed them up with an infinity of interviews ; and on the first of November, 1825, the council of ministers acceded to my proposals, inasmuch as they thought they could do it without rendering themselves amenable to the General Congress. That the directors of the Pearl and Coral Fishery Association had given up all idea of a privilege, will, I think, be evident from the following extract of a letter addressed to me by one of them : — e< We have received intelligence which leads us to believe, that no exclusive privilege to fish for pearls will be granted. TEDIOUS DELAY. 21 or indeed any monopoly of any kind ; while at the same time R and B boast that they will have anticipated us. But I treat this boast as a gas- conade, being well convinced that the recommenda- tions you carry out will enable you to do all which can be done, provided you prove yourself to be an able diplomatist. Should you not be able to gain any exclusive privilege, your next step will be to acquire all the information in your power respecting wrecks, pearls, &c., and to negotiate the lowest tariff of duties. R and B ’s objects are, I find, precisely the same as ours, in every respect ; and I know that they have spared neither expense nor trouble to obtain influence and information. It there- fore behoves you to be upon the alert to the utmost, having so formidable a competitor to cope with. “If, in the course of your peregrinations, you should learn any thing of mines, especially in Cali- fornia, &c.” A whole month after this period elapsed, before the provisional license had passed through the Minis- terio of Relaciones and Tesoreria, but at length it arrived at its last destination, the Hacienda. Here it met with an unlooked-for obstacle, in the shape of thirty-eight questions of difficulties arising out of the LAWS or the indies, an enormous folio book, which served the Minister as a sort of breakwater, to keep off the commotion without, and shelter him within, from the fury of the Congress, should its members suspect that he had infringed upon their privileges. When I asked 22 SUCCESSFUL RESULTS. the Minister of Ecclesiastical affairs for assist- ance, he candidly told me, that if I followed his advice, I should instantly send out all my mules which had been prepared for the march, to grass again, and wait for a more favourable opportunity to carry my point. But I could not bring myself to abandon a possession which had been, as I imagined, so completely within my grasp, and I had therefore an immediate interview with the President. His Excellency was astonished, and sent for the Minister. What passed between them I know not, as I retired upon his entrance. However, a quarter of an hour had not elapsed before I saw him returning to his ministerio, where I had been awaiting his arrival. His first observation was, that all difficulties were now removed, and that at ten o’clock the following morning I might call for the license. How great a load of anxiety was removed from my mind may be imagined, although I could scarcely bring myself to believe the reality of what I had just been told. The morrow, however, set this at rest, and put into my possession the license and passport, which had cost me four months of almost incessant negotiation. CHAPTER II. The Author quits Mexico. — Santa Fe. — Seven crosses. — Pain- ful sensations. — Lerma. — Volcan de Toluca. — Deference paid to Military Men. — Mexican curiosity. — Singular Adventure. — Real de Tlalpuhagua. — Bull Fights. — Caterpillars. — Vein of Obsidian. — Village of Ucareo. — Curious Illusion. — Amuse- ments. — The Fandango. — Mine of Ozumatlan. — City of Cha- ro A character. — Arrival at Valladolid. — Fashionable Ball. — General M . — Iturbide. — Effects of the Revolution. On the fifth December, 1825, I quitted the city of Mexico, and commenced my travels towards the port of Guaymas, in the province of Sonora, accom- panied by two servants of the country, one horse, three saddle and three sumpter-mules ; and it will now be my business to detail whatever may be wor- thy of remark on the road. We left the Garita about ten o’clock a. m., and shortly afterwards passed Chapultepec, formerly the hunting ground of Montezuma, having in its centre a considerable elevation, upon which stands a palace, the building whereof occasioned the disgrace of one of the viceroys of Mexico, his enemies having sug- 24 , SANTA FE. gested that his motives were inimical to the Spanish interests. The road hence takes a S. S. W. direction, by compass, and at two, P, m. we passed the town of Santa Fe, near which the Government has a manu- factory of gunpowder. Here the road ascends gradu- ally, and about a mile farther on, to the right, built in a deep ravine, is a very large flour-mill worked by water, which also belongs to the Government. Santa F6 is three leagues from Mexico ; and two more leagues in advance we passed Quegemalpo, the road to which is exceedingly bad. There are planted in this place seven large wooden crosses, which com- memorate the murder of a family of an equal number of individuals, who were robbed and assassinated on this spot about ten years ago. There is a profusion of trees on both sides of the road, which leads, through intricate windings, to M aroma, where the way is very steep and full of large loose stones, and, owing to the rain which had fallen during the latter part of the day, it was rendered extremely slippery and fatiguing to our mules. After passing Maroma, we were enveloped in the shades of night, render- ed more gloomy by dark clouds, and more obscure by the umbrageous foliage of the oaks. Maroma is the highest point of the road, and the adjacent mountains are covered with pines ; whereas, in the descent hence, the region of oaks commences, and reaches nearly as far as the city of Lerma. We now found the journey excessively unpleasant, owing not less to the wetness of the road and dark- PAINFUL SENSATIONS. 25 ness of the evening, than to our sumpter-mules, for the arrival of which we were continually obliged to halt. I had my fears, either that they might stray or be pillaged, or perhaps that we should be obliged to lay by for the night, distant from any shelter. A mule, however, is the best and safest animal for travelling, and will hold out the longest. Its powers of vision, too, are wonderful, as I had an opportunity of experiencing on the road. In passing through a wood where it was impossible to see the road, I found myself, on a sudden, to my astonishment, ascending, while the servants and sumpter-mules were evidently descending, which I ascertained by the men’s whistle. To prevent our farther separation, I ventured to signify my wishes to the mule by a gentle pull of the bridle ; but ne felt himself by no means disposed at this juncture to second them, and we shortly after arrived at a part of the road, which was so extremely steep, that I could with difficulty keep on his back, much less presume to direct his head. I found it prudent, therefore, to give him the reins, and trust entirely to his discretion for extricating us from this difficulty ; nor was I disappointed. The mule pre- sently began to descend, and we very soon rejoined our companions. To travel in a road like this, in a strange country, is extremely disagreeable, and withal marvellously painful to the eyes. Indistinct objects, at a short distance, appear quite close, and as if they, and not the mules, were moving in an opposite direction, till at length the head becomes quite giddy, and the imagination painfully depressed; a feeling which is not 26 LERMA. a little increased by the dead silence in which one travels in this country. At Lerma, however, we arrived at last, but too late to procure supper. Indeed so great was my fatigue, that although we had only travelled eighteen leagues, which appeared to me at least forty, I felt little desire for taking any thing beyond what Dr. Kitchener calls horizontal refreshment. I there- fore wrapped myself up in my serape, (blanket) and slept so soundly, that the sun was high the next morning before I awoke. The meson is wretchedly bad as to furniture, &c., nor could we procure any milk for breakfast. Near Lerma, the river of that name takes its rise, and passing between the lake of Chapala and Guadalaxara, discharges itself into the sea at San Bias, under the name, however, of Rio de Santeago. It is next in size to the Rio Bravo del Norte, and perhaps to the Rio Guasacualco, the largest river in the Mexican territory. Near also to Lerma is the Hacienda, whence are reared the bulls which supply Mexico for the diversion of them “ Toros” — a barbarous sport. Mine host, too, was a sort of bull, a savage-looking fellow from Santander in Spain. December 6th. — Our mules having been so completely knocked up by the last day’s journey, we resolved not to extend our march to-day farther than Toluca, a distance only of five leagues, in a straight flat road W.S. W. having extensive plains, without any appearance of irregularity, extending on both sides as VOLCAN DE TOLUCA. 27 far as the eye can reach. To the S. W. is seen the beautiful hill called Volcan de Toluca, with its cone covered with perpetual snow. The colours of the mountain scenery, on a clear day, are truly superb. I know of no other country which, in this respect, equals it. The approach to Toluca, from the eastward, is very pretty, along an avenue of dwarf poplar trees. The town stands at the foot of the volcanic mountain, and commands a view of the adjacent plain. We arrived about one o’clock, and took possession of the only unoccupied room in the meson ; troops hav- ing arrived the preceding evening. The deference which in Mexico is paid to military men, is not a little absurd ; but it effectually secures to them the best quarters which the meson of the town, honoured by their visits, can furnish, to the exclusion of all other travellers who have the misfortune not to belong to thisv privileged profession. The consequence to us, - therefore, was serious, as we found ourselves and four other individuals, in all eight, crammed into a small dirty room, scarcely ten feet square. Toluca has long been famous for cheese and soap. To the right, on an elevation, stands an empty tower that can only be entered from the top. Beyond the Volcano is a Real de Minas. December 7th. — We left early, for the heat of our room was intolerable, although the morning was extremely cold. It had frozen during the night, and I observed ice by the road-side, the thickness 28 MEXICAN CURIOSITY. of a dollar. Our route lay W. N. W. Three leagues from Toluca we passed a very pretty look- ing little village ; and about two leagues farther on, we came to an elegant house, where we halted to get breakfast. We succeeded only in obtaining a few poached eggs, tortillas, and pulque. Our host was an odd old fellow, and particularly curious about the object of our journey, which he concluded could be none other than a search after mines. He told us that he never knew of any “mineral” in the neighbourhood, but he was certain there must be some, as a gentleman, only a few days before, and who dined at his house, was most particular in his inquiries about one ! We resolved not to undeceive him, but requested, if he should come to the know- ledge of any, that he would send us word, to No. 18, Calle de Valvaneiro, in Mexico; a street which has only seventeen houses in it. This he promised to do, winking his eye as he observed, “ You foreigners don’t travel for nothing.” We shortly afterwards wished him a good morning, and success in his inquiries, and continued our journey. At seven, P. m. we came to Istlaguaca, where, with- out being inconvenienced by troops, we were obliged to pass the night in a room scarcely two-thirds as large as the one we had occupied in Lerma ! I began now seriously to reflect, that for the future, it would be best to take up our lodgings in the open air ; but, however, this Was not practicable, owing to the cold- ness of the nights, and the danger of having our ani- SINGULAR ADVENTURE. 29 mals stolen ; and bad as are the mesons, they at least afford security for quadrupeds ! Istlaguaca is a town ; but every part of it, except the priest’s house, is dreadfully dilapidated. It is ten leagues and a half from Toluca. December 8th. — Being the fast of La Purisima, we allowed our servants to attend mass, which re- tarded our departure till ten, a. m. During the day we passed the Hacienda of San Felipe, Puerta de Cavaleri, and Puerta de Medina, on the right. The road, with the exception of a deep ravine and tole- rable abundance of stones, was level and good ; the course north-west, twelve leagues and a half. In the afternoon we alighted at a cottage by the side of the road, and inquired for milk. Only a young lady and a child were its present occupiers, and they were so alarmed at our intrusion, that they set up a tre- mendous roar, which was echoed by the well-tried lungs of a large dog ; nor could we succeed in paci- fying them. They soon left the house, under pre- tence of calling their parents ; but they never re- turned ; and although the dog, who had not like them taken to flight, continued growling, we drank some milk which we discovered, left a quarter of a dollar on the jar which had contained it, and then, to the infinite satisfaction of its faithful guardian, left the house. Thermometer 31° at night. December 9th. — We left at six, a. m., and at eight entered a beautiful pass, between well-wooded 30 HEAL DE TLALPUHAGUA. hills on either side. The scenery, during the whole of this day’s journey was extremely pretty ; and the village of Shiquaro, to the right, is romantically situ- ated, and has a clean appearance. The pass is, in some places, very narrow, and of considerable length. At its western entrance, through which we journeyed, is seen the Hacienda of Tepitongo, where we had de- signed to pass the night ; but our sumpter-mules hav- ing had no previous intimation of this intention, had passed on, while we stopped at a cottage by the road- side; so that to return, without taking a very circuit- ous route, was impossible, as the intermediate space was occupied by an impenetrable swamp of great ex- tent. Although terribly fatigued, there was no alter- native left but that of following the great road, leav- ing the Hacienda about a league to the right. We saw some very curious specimens of fungi on the dwarf ilex, which grows by the way-side. After having travelled about two leagues from the point where the road divides, we arrived at some huts, close to the foot of the Real de Tlalpuhagua, (worked by an English company,) the management of which has been intrusted to the Chevalier Rivafinole. In one of these huts we succeeded in getting some eggs ; the Indian, who lived in it, pointed out to us the Socabdn, of which so much has been said, and which is distinctly visible from this situation. I wished to have paid a visit to the Real, but being anxious on many accounts to arrive at Valladolid, I was obliged to deny myself this pleasure, and passed on to the BULL FIGHTS. 31 Hacienda of La Jordana, five leagues farther. Near Tlalpuhagua is the Real de Angang6o, to the north- ward. The latter part of the journey towards Jor- dana is very tiresome, in consequence of the nu- merous canadas which cross the road. Our animals were greatly fatigued, and ourselves scarcely less so, owing to the excessive heat during the day, and the cold at night which we felt the more sensibly. Our lodgings here were much better than on any other part of the road, since we quitted Mexico ; but we found them very expensive. December 10th. — Proceeded at nine, a. m. ; route N. N. W., which brought us to the town of Maravetio Grande, at five, P. m. The road was tole- rably good, and we met with no adventure whatever. At Maravetio we found the inhabitants celebrating the anniversary of their constitution ; and arrived just in time to see the last bull rode and goaded to death by the patriotic inhabitants, armed with lances, within an enclosure in the Plaza Grande. The enclosure was surrounded by lofty benches, on which well-dressed ladies of all ages were seated to witness the spectacle, and to applaud any ex- traordinary act of cruelty committed by the com- batants ! I soon retired from so disgusting a scene, lamenting, in my own mind, that the feelings of mothers and daughters should be blunted by exhibi- tions, tending to unfit them for those offices of huma- nity, which are the peculiar attributes of the sex. I afterwards saw some fine specimens of the Bolero, 32 CATERPILLARS. in the house of the Alcalde, in which amusement he had kindly invited me to take an active part ; but my ignorance of this accomplishment was the best excuse I could offer for declining the honour. December 11th.— At nine, a. m. we recom- menced our travels, taking a northerly direction, which brought us to a stupendous mountain-road, sheltered however by trees from the immediate action of the sun. After having ascended for about an hour, we came to the region of oaks and other majestically tall trees, the names of which I could not learn. Suspended from their stately branches were innumerable nests, enclosed, apparently, in white paper bags, in the manner of bunches of grapes in England, to preserve them from birds and flies. I had the curiosity to examine one of them, which I found, to contain numberless caterpillars. The texture is so strong that it is not easily torn, and the interior contained a quantity of green leaves to support the numerous progeny within. We continued to ascend for four or five hours, and I began to give up all hope of ever reaching the summit of the hill, which still towered above our heads, and appeared to have a most rugged aspect. The tree lupin grows here to a great size, and there are at least seven or eight varieties of the oak. At length we reached the highest point of the road, and began to descend ; but the same sombre character of the wood still accompanied us. Not a note from any bird is to be heard to enliven the spirits of the MEET A PANADERO. 33 way-worn traveller — all was silent as the grave, save only the groans of the exhausted mules, and the whistles of their drivers. We occupied as much time in getting down this hill as we had done in ascending it, and upon arriving on the extensive plain below, the village of Ucareo is seen on a gentle eminence about one league distant. We observed the lands here to be covered with large pieces of obsidian, and concluded, from what is known of this mineral, that we were in the neigh- bourhood of some volcano ; but this was not the case. We passed through Ucareo, and about a league beyond it we came to a Canada or ravine, near the bottom of whicli the road is crossed by a perfect vein of obsidian, composed of strata, run- ning due east and west, at an angle of about twenty degrees from the perpendicular, and six feet wide at the surface. The whole of this part of the coun- try is, in fact, covered with detached masses of this substance ; some of them are of great size, and of different shades. The road, after passing the Canada, is horribly bad ; and having the good fortune to meet a Pa- nadero, with a mule-load of bread, I became an eager purchaser. Having eaten nothing since the morning, I devoured a loaf with such avidity, that the fellow stared with astonishment, and passed me with a grin on his face. Before parting, however, I inquired how far it was to Cinap6quaro, and he told me I should arrive at it immediately. The rogue determined to have his joke, for night came D 34 EFFECT OF DARKNESS. on, veiled in its thickest mantle, but still, no light from any house appeared ! At eight we thought we perceived the horizon illuminated, and began to guess at our proximity ; but the lights appeared to recede as we advanced. None but those who have travelled in a country like this, hungry and fatigued, having been constantly disappointed in the estimate of distance, and with expectation about to give way to a species of despair, can have a true conception of the nervous irritability which it produces. “ Hope deferred maketh the heart sick.” Imaginary objects, in advance, which seem to be houses and people, start up ; a bright star near the horizon suddenly catches the eye, and the traveller fancies he sees light at a window or door ; the creaking of the mule- packs he converts into distant music, and the tread of the animal’s iron hoofs over the hollow-sounding rock, impresses him with the idea of drums. On- ward he goes, with the cheering idea of speedily arriving, till the over-excited organs of vision become completely fatigued with the illusion, when they sud- denly appear to have an impenetrable mist cast be- fore them, accompanied with a painful singing in the ears ; and a sensation of darkness follows, which almost amounts to mental annihilation. For an in- stant a vacancy is produced in the imagination, and this is presently filled up by the reproduction of new images, which in their turn vanish, — are repro- duced, and vanish again, till the mind at length be- comes bewildered, and the imagination a chaos ! The lights on the horizon, however, became at TMIE GAME OF MOUM» I® THE gTKEETS ©F MEXICO. iy J2.£{/'Z&z*rrb, J&0flclv r l.J^&2'0 FEASTS. 35 length clearly visible, and the sounds of merriment distinctly heard, but the road was every moment more difficult from having been rendered indistinct by the illuminations of the town, and we soon dis- covered that we had wandered from the track. No- thing therefore was left but to make for the lights the best way we could ; this led us to a series of little precipices, and we proceeded like a ship in a strong head-sea, pitching and tossing, as every step was a leap, till we came near enough to perceive the commencement of a street. Tranquillity was now restored to us, and such a tranquillity as only those can possibly experience who suddenly recover from some acute bodily pain ! We anxiously inquired for the meson, to which we were directed, through streets illuminated by pine chips, which give quite as strong a light as the gas of London. This is a period of general festivity, when all the province of Valladolid appears to be of one mind. Bull-baiting, dancing, and feasting, are the sole ob- jects, and, in this respect, we were fortunate in arriving at a time, which gave us an opportunity of witnessing a feeling so general, and feasts, to me, so novel. The meson was nearly full of lodgers, and the plaza grande resounded with singers, whose voices, accom- panied by guitars, celebrated the beauty of the female dancers, and indicated, in recitative, the various movements of the fandango. It cannot fail of pro- ducing a pleasing effect, and almost inspires one with a desire of imitating some of those difficult move- ments of the dancers’ feet, which are made to beat d 2 36 MINE OF OZUMATLAN. exact time to the music throughout their dexterous evolutions, the execution of which must have occu- pied the greater part of the lives of the performers. The feet are in perpetual and most rapid motion, and not unfrequently the hands also, and some dance with a great deal of grace. The most singular part of the performance is the extraordinary want of anima- tion in the steps of ttie young ladies, who are taken out in succession to exhibit, as it were, inanimate figures, before which the male dancers cut capers to a given focus. The town is neat and appears to be populous. Indian corn is dear. We managed to sleep without rocking. December 11th. — Left Cinapequaro at eight, a.m. and proceeded at as quick a pace as our jaded ani- mals could go. What with the heat, and the fric- tion of the pack-saddles, and the chilly air at night, their backs were shockingly galled, and we enter- tained but little hope of their ever being able to reach Valladolid. At noon, arrived at the Hacienda of the Conde de Hereys, where we rested our beasts, while we ourselves were invited to breakfast. The house is spacious, and was once elegantly furnished ; but the roofs of some of the rooms, and the adornments of others, have found another resting-place, and left a cheerless ruin behind. The barn, however, is a fine building, and well stored with corn. The grounds are capable of considerable cultivation, and much cattle might be reared on them. In the neigh- bourhood is the mine of Ozumatlan, and the Haci- enda is four leagues from Cinapequaro. CITY OF CHARO. 37 After a rest of half an hour, we again resumed our march along an avenue of willows, the luxuriant branches of which overhung the road and rivulet by which they grew. We passed numbers of gay ladies and smart beaux on their way to attend the feast at Cinapequaro. Upon emerging from the willow avenue, we came to an open bushy plain, where the number of blackbirds was so great as to form a thick dense cloud wherever they flew up, which they only did when we absolutely trod upon them, so tame were they. One discharge of a gun amongst them would probably have prostrated hundreds ; but I did not make the experiment, as they are not eatable. At the distance of five leagues from the Hacienda, we passed through the village of Yndaparopio, the inhabitants of which have, amongst their neighbours, the reputation of being rogues, who lose no oppor- tunity of robbing and murdering the defenceless tra- vellers that are so unfortunate as to fall into their hands. The road was tolerably good; and night coining on apace, we determined to halt a league beyond this nest of vagabonds, at the city of Charo, which stands on a little mound, and here we arrived at seven, p.m. Charo, like Lerma, (to both of which has been given the brevet rank of cities, in consequence of some battles having been fought near them, in the struggle for independence,) consists of not more than twenty miserable huts, the owners of which manifest much poverty, and but little pride at the distinction given to their respective cities. There is a sluggish- 38 A CHARACTER. ness in the character of the Mexicans, which is a perfect anomaly. The ambition to become rich, and thereby truly independent, — that honest emulation which quickens the faculties and promotes mental exertion and industrious habits, seems to form no part of their composition. Idleness and cards are their chief occupation, and all their energies are made subser- vient to these base passions : hence their great de- ficiency of education, want of good moral principles, and ignorance of domestic comforts. Immediately upon our arrival, we proceeded to the house of the Alcalde, accompanied by a tall, gaunt personage, with rather a dandyish cloth manta thrown over his shoulders, exposing to view, at the lower part, a printed cotton lining ; and this important looking gentleman we took to be his honour. Arriving at the worthy magistrate’s house, our new acquaintance invited us to alight and enter it, which we made no ceremony of doing. My first inquiry was for meat ; but, alas ! although it was here also a feast day, we were constrained to mortify the body by fasting, having been able to procure only one small fowl, which we roasted over the wood fire burning before the house. Our friend, still perso- nating the owner of the mansion, talked to us of the great battles in which he had taken an active part, explained the politics of the country, painted it as it ought to be, and apostrophised his own knowledge and abilities, which, he said, well fitted him, from his correct habit of thinking and reasoning, for some important situation under the Government. I, of PROGRESS TO VALLADOLID. 39 course, assented to every thing, hoping that my patient endurance of his rhetorical powers might soften his heart, and coax him into the error of offering us something to eat. But this was no part of his plan ; and we therefore soon signified to him our intention of retiring early to bed, upon which intimation he wished us good night, and took his leave. We then discovered that an Indian, who had all this time been quietly seated in one corner of the house, listening with infinite attention to the Sage of the manta, was the Alcalde ! and from him we learned that our friend was the Cabildo ! December 12th. — The gnawing sensations of hunger in our stomachs, were so painful during the night, that we found it impossible to rest or sleep, and rising at four, a. m. we mounted our mules, and pro- ceeded at a good pace, hoping to reach Valladolid by breakfast-time. I think I hardly ever felt a more piercingly-cold morning. My hands and feet were painfully benumbed, and I scarcely know whether I most lamented the last night’s fast, or feast, as it was called at Charo, or the having left a warm bed at so early an hour. We had already proceeded about two leagues, when we came to a farm-house, where the people were milking cows, and hoping that a draught of this alimental beverage would not only comfort the stomach, but warm the body also, we partook largely of it. We knew the distance from Charo to Valladolid to be only four leagues, and every hill we ascended, after passing the cowherds, we imagined would be 40 VALLADOLID. the last ; but eminence after eminence arose before us, as if in mockery of our anxiety, and still no town appeared. At length, after having travelled a long league, we came to an open plain, and in the distance we beheld, peering above the unequal ground, the church towers of the city. We now quickened our pace, and arrived at eight, a. m. at the Garita, where our passes were examined, and our persons scrutinized by the officer who had charge of the post. Every thing, however, being found satis- factory, we were allowed to proceed through the streets, which conducted us to the Plaza Grande, in which stands the cathedral, and near it the college. The appearance of Valladolid, from a distance, is remarkably pretty, and the street which leads from the Garita, reminded me of England, as the houses have each of them little gardens in front filled with trees and flowers. The trees, however, which were of orange, and bending under the load of ripe and green fruit, destroyed the illusion, and we soon came to the meson. The aqueduct which supplies the town is rather elegant, far handsomer than those of Mexico, and is built of stone. The meson is a large building, and might be made to afford great conveniences. Each of the bed-rooms, like all the hotels in Mexico, con- tained only a table, a bench, and a wooden bedstead. In one room, however, were three stoves, placed round some ashes, which had served our predecessor for the double purpose of warmth and cooking ; a A BALL. 41 convenience with which all the rooms are provided, upon paying for the charcoal. This, then, we se- lected as the warmest apartment ; but we afterwards discovered that the previous inmate had taken little pains to render it the cleanest in the house. Our meal finished, we paid a visit to the Alcalde, and, according to the custom of the country, showed him our passports. I then sought out the persons to whom I brought letters of introduction, and was invited to attend a ball and supper, to be given by the citizens, in commemoration of the anniversary of swearing to the state constitution. I next examined the public buildings, some of which are very good, as well as the college, which is looked upon as one of the best in Mexico. And now having satisfied my curiosity, and being somewhat disappointed with what I had seen, I returned to the meson to dine and to dress for the ball. The assembly, which was held in the town-hall, was numerously attended. The rooms, which are large, were well lighted, and when we arrived the ball had already commenced, and the sound of the music, together with the gay dresses of the ladies, formed an agreeable contrast with the cheerless ho- tels in which we had lodged since we left Mexico. One of the masters of the ceremonies received us with great politeness, and conducted us to seats which were arranged on each side of the room in a double column ; the musicians being placed at one end. When I entered, the delighted company were threading the difficult mazes of a Spanish country 42 A BALL. dance, with characteristic slowness and precision. To this succeeded the waltz ; and if the men were stiff and formal in their movements, the languishing atti- tudes into which the young ladies threw themselves, and which, out of Mexico, might have been deemed highly indelicate, but which passed here for winning gracefulness, certainly made ample amends. There was something abundantly ridiculous in the contor- tions of the body, where the head, for example, was made to repose on the hand, whilst the elbow was supported on the extended arm of the fair one’s partner, after which another attitude was assumed, and her eyes rested on the floor. The next minute they were raised to the ceiling, which movement was succeeded by a severe frown. It was, indeed, in- tended to be descriptive of every passion from love to hate — from admiration to contempt — “ From grave to gay, from gentle to severe !” But description would fail of giving an adequate idea of the effect produced. I had not for a long time been so much amused, and felt quite angry when supper was announced. The supper-table was laid out with a profusion of flowers and viands of all descriptions, with emblems on the sweetmeats in the shape of little paper flags, curiously cut out, and with patriotic verses written upon them, calculated to increase the general en- thusiasm inspired by the occasion. The repast be- ing ended, the party again resumed their dancing atti- tudes ; the music struck up, and the same animated countenances and sylph-like forms raised a deep THE ALAMEDA. 43 feeling of anxious expectation. Presently the dance ceased, and instantly the attention was fixed by a party of ladies and gentlemen, who threatened a song. The ceremony, however, opened with a solo, and then succeeded a chorus. Another solo, fol- lowed by another chorus, was given, till the singers were exhausted, and their patriotic verses were ended. The dance was again resumed, and lasted till about four in the morning, when the party sepa- rated. On my return to the meson, I fell into the arms of Morpheus, and was laughing and enjoying in my dreams the evening’s entertainment. General M v r as at the ball, having yielded to the universal feeling of joy and enthusiasm ; and forgetting the cautious reserve of the Ambassador, allowed himself to explain how unhandsomely he had acted by our Pearl and Coral Company, as well as unfairly by me. Nor was he a little surprised when I told him that I had accomplished my objects, which he attempted to disguise by a careless, “ Ay ! I always told you that you would succeed !” The fashionable promenade is the Alameda, a straight walk with a brick-floor, and overhung by trees on both sides. The extremity farthest from the town is, however, very pretty and picturesque ; nor is there here, of an evening, a less display of youth and beauty — the latter, by the bye, a somewhat scarce commodity in Valladolid — than was furnished by the ball-room. The pas6o lasts till dusk. On the heights beyond this Alameda, about a league distant. 44 EFFECTS OF THE DEVOLUTION. the late Ex-einperor Iturbide gained a signal victory over the Insurgents, as they were then called. He had not then changed sides. The soil of this state is said to be very fertile. It is perhaps the richest province in Mexico, but the devastation occasioned by the revolution, here, where it may be said to have commenced, is very apparent in the ruinous condition of many of the lands, which have been, but are now either not at all, or only partially cultivated. It is thought that it will require a long time to re-establish the estates and houses which have been ruined, and the funds which have been lavished in the long contest for liberty. 45 CHAPTER III. The Author calls upon the Governor. — Congress-hall. — A Joe Miller. — Quits Valladolid. — A Cura. — Fords the Rio Grande. — Hospitality. — The waterfalls of Puente Grande. — Family dis- turbances. — Guadalaxara An invitation. — Christmas feasts. — Society. — A beauty. — A laughing Colonel. — Leaves Guada- laxara. — Suspic : ous characters. — Sugar plantations. — Passes the Real of Ostostapaquillo. — Precipices. — Beauty of the Sce- nery. — A procurador. — A poet. — Arrives at Pitic. December 13th. — Called upon the Governor, who politely tendered his services, should they be re- quired, in the event of its being decided by the Ge- neral Congress, that the province of Valladolid had the right of disposing of any fishery on its immediate coasts. I had also interviews with some of the de- puties, to whom I delivered my letters of introduc- tion ; and they promised to accede to my wishes re- specting the exclusive privilege of fishing for pearls, provided the decision of the Congress gave them power to do so. The Congress-hall is very neat, and the paintings adorning the walls of the interior, are the only ones 46 SAN FRANCISCO, I have seen in Mexico, where the lights and sha- dows are thrown in the proper direction. Generally speaking, the ornamental house-painters in this country have only one idea, as they have each but one £lan to copy from. This reminds me of the vil- lage artist who painted a red lion for every innkeeper that employed him. When a new inn, however, was set up in the neighbourhood, orders were sent to the painter for a sign. “ A red lion, I presume, Sir.” “ No !” said the publican, “ I’ll have an angel.” “ An angel !” rejoined the artist, “ you had better have a red lion.” “Well,” replied mine host in a pet, “if you can't paint an angel, I must send for some one that can.” “ Why,” retorted the painter, “ I can paint an angel, but you may depend on’t ’twill look very like a red lion when ’tis finished.” Perhaps honest Joe Miller has the same story ! December 14th. — Bade adieu to the city of Val- ladolid, and travelled in a N.N.W. direction seven or eight leagues, which brought us to the Hacienda of Tecacho, and we arranged so as to pass the night at a private house, there being no meson. One of my mules having taken French leave out of this world, I here bought a horse for eighty dollars, and he turned out well. December 15th. — Started at six, a. m. ; the road tolerably good, but very stony in many places. At five, P. M. we arrived at the town of San Francisco, where, for the same reason as at Tecacho, we slept in a private house. San Francisco has been, in its day, a considerable place, but was dreadfully demo- FORD THE RIO GRANDE. 47 lished by the armies of the Spaniards and Revolu- tionists, for which the inhabitants ought to be, if they are not, profoundly grateful, as they can now build new houses upon an improved plan ! We re- ceived a visit from the Cura, whose stature was much above the ordinary size, and his voice pecu- liarly fitted for preaching in his parish church, which had now only part of a roof remaining ; so that there was nothing to impede the progress of his sten- torian eloquence in its passage to heaven direct. He piously lamented the decay of the sacred edifice, and expressed, with humility, his fears that the church-dynasty was declining. He also complained of his severe ghostly duties, but observing us to have a bottle of liquor upon the table, quaintly said, “ Senor ! I should have no objection to take a little spirituous comfort.” We found him, after all, a merry fellow ; and he told us some curious stories of persons who had been to him to confess, which, although highly entertaining, I do not feel myself at liberty to circulate farther. He is a perfect Friar Tuck ! December 16th. — We mounted horse, at seven, a. m. ; direction still to the north-west. Shortly after leaving the place, we passed an apparently well- cultivated hacienda on the left. At the distance of a league from San Francisco, we crossed the Rio Grande, which we forded. The river is not deep, nor is its current strong, but the bank is so steep on the north-west side, that both my horse and myself were within an ace of tumbling headlong into the 48 DISINTERESTED HOSPITALITY. water, which catastrophe might have put a prema- ture end to the Mexican Pearl Fishery. This ford is called Santa Fe del Rio. The borders of the river are well cultivated, and turkeys and other poultry are reared in abundance. I purchased a fine turkey for half a dollar, which, for the country, was very cheap. We re-crossed the river about two leagues farther down, at Numeran, a neat village — at least what is left of it, for this place likewise has suffered from the effects of the revolution. We shortly after crossed a plain of considerable extent, through which the road was cut. At five, p. m. we arrived at the town of La Pieaad, the greater part of which is in ruins. We were well entertained at a private house. The neighbouring lands are of good quality, and much cultivated. December 17th. — Off at seven, a.m. ; road in- famously bad and stony in many parts. At eleven, we arrived at the neat town of Ur6quero, where we stopped and breakfasted at the first good-looking house we came to. The owner was an elderly lady who sold pottery, and who gave us as much as we could eat, served upon silver, and, in spite of our entreaties, would not accept of any remuneration ! This was the first instance of disinterested hospitality which we had met with since our departure, and it deserves to be recorded. She told us that she was a native of Spain, and that her husband had died during the revolution. The lands of this little town are well cultivated, and the dykes for the convey- FORD THE RIO GRANDE. 49 ance of water to irrigate them, bespoke a superior class of inhabitants, both in ideas and industry. We left this hospitable family with regret, and passed along a flat country, with a sun so intensely hot, that three of the mules were struck by coups- de-soleil, became giddy, and dropped. We were ob- liged to bleed them instantly, and with great diffi- culty reached La Barca, a ferry over the Rio Grande, at half-past five r. M. Crossed in canoes, driving the animals before us. The river is deep but slug- gish. We slept in a decent meson, the walls of which were scrawled over with charcoal-written verses — some of which were black enough ! December 18th. — Started at seven a.m. ; road intolerably bad; so much so, that we could only proceed as far as a rancho, called Tierras Blancas, about five leagues from La Barca. Here we slept in a kitchen, and arose in the morning with our faces as black as the cook’s. The owner of the cottage was ill in bed, when we arrived, of a severe cold and rheumatism in his loins. I administered to him a dose of James’s powders, and the next morn- ing he was perfectly well. Our stock of chocolate was exhausted, and we enquired of our host if he could sell us some ; but he said he had no such thing in the house, although we had seen him, not ten minutes before, swallowing a cupfull with great avidity. How different from our treatment at Ur6- quero! But if the world were made of feathers, we should all sleep on down ! E 50 THE RIO GRANDE. December 19th. — Left at six a. m. The road strictly comes under that denomination called in Spanish “camino de paxaro” (bird’s road), on account of its badness. It winds through a long Canada, wherein grow magnificent cypress trees, which give good shelter to the robbers, who usually inhabit the pass in the mountain, and plunder travellers. We, however, had not the honour of receiving a visit from any of the banditti, because perhaps they might have seen that we were well armed. Late in the day we came to the Puente del Rio Grande. Here the falls of the river are majestic. In the space of about one league there are between fifty and sixty falls of greater or lesser height, and the water rushes down with an impetuosity which converts the whole body into white foam, and the sound is much too sepulchral to be captivating. The scenery is dismal and sombre, and instead of producing a grand effect, it occasions only a sensation of sadness, of which I did not get the better for some hours. The bridge is a tolerably good one, and was the scene of a strongly contested battle between the Spaniards and the Insurgents, in which the former were victorious. At this place the meson is truly infamous, and filled with vermin. I could not make up my mind to sleep within doors, and had my cot placed in the yard ; but I repented long before morning, as the grunting of a large family of pigs, in their harmonious search after food, kept me awake the greater part of the night. December 20th. — The distance from Puente HOSPITALITY. 51 Grande to Guadalaxara, is only six leagues. We mounted at seven a. m. and met on the road innu- merable mules, with heavy loads, which convinced us, if other proofs had even been wanting, that we were approaching a populous town. On the way we passed through the village of San Pedro, where I observed a beautiful shrub, the upper leaves of which, between the texture of leaf and flower, from their rich scarlet colours presented a beautiful appearance. I procured seeds of it ; but my journey was so long, that before I returned to Mexico, they, as well as most of the others I had collected in various parts of the country, were completely ground to flour. We reached Gua- dalaxara at noon ; and as we were passing through one of the streets in search of a meson, we were accosted by a gentleman, who enquired whether my name was Hardy ; and on my replying in the affirma- tive, he said he had been some days expecting me, and requested that I would occupy the room he had prepared for me in his own house. There was no refusing so kind an offer, and I gratefully accepted it. The name of this gentleman is Ritchie, a mer- chant, established here, who, after having had to con- tend with the prejudices of both native and Spanish merchants, finally accomplished his object and kept his footing in spite of all opposition ; and he is now doing a great deal of business. He is a man of consi- derable talent and information : I found him uniformly obliging during my stay, and received some excel- lent advice from him respecting the fishery previous to my departure. E 2 52 CHRISTMAS FEASTS. This city is, I believe, the second in Mexico, although the Mexicans in derision call it “ el Rancho Grande,” the great farm. Here my stay was pro- longed, owing to the arrangements which I found it necessary to make with our agents on the coast, re- specting the pearl-fishing ; and as it was necessary to receive their suggestions before I proceeded, I was obliged to remain some days longer than I had anti- cipated. I made good use of my time, however, vi- siting the governor, to whom Mr. Ritchie was so good as to introduce me, as well as to several other indivi- duals of importance, whose assistance might be use- ful to our plans, in the event of the Congress of the State being permitted to dispose of the pearl fishery on the coast near Colima. Christmas is in Guadalaxara a season of great di- version. The Portales, (colonnades,) which are much better than those of Mexico, and infinitely more numerous, are all well lighted up with candles, sur- rounded by coloured -paper shades, standing on little tables, which display a great assortment of sweet- meats and fruits. The ladies and gentlemen too, walk about finely dressed under the Portale, and con- vert it into a fashionable promenade. From seven till ten, there is perhaps not a single family in the whole town which has not taken a few turns, in their gayest dresses, to witness the sweetmeat exhibition ; to see and to be seen ! It may be well to give the traveller a gentle hint with respect to the 25th of De- cember, for every thing which is borrowed on this day is never returned. It is, in short, to the Mexi- MEXICAN BEAUTIES. 53 cans, who call it “ la noche buena,” what April-fool- day is to us. Therefore, traveller, beware ! It is the occasion of much frolic and amusement. During my stay in Guadalaxara, I became ac- quainted with some very agreeable families, through the introduction of Mr. Ritchie, one of which was that of the Commissary General of the State, a very important personage in Mexico. He was an old man, very fond of a quiet game at cards, an amuse- ment, perhaps, suited to his age. He was married to a very good-looking young lady, who used to play us some pretty things on the piano-forte, which she accompanied by her voice. At this house we used to meet a number of the cleverest men of the place ; and the evenings, with conversation and music, used to pass away most pleasantly. Another family was that of Hicare, where there were two young ladies, one extremely handsome, and the other used always to be leading us into mis- chief, and leaving us to extricate ourselves the best way we could. Another family, where we used to visit, was that of St. Cortkz, in which were also two young ladies, one so exceedingly beautiful, that her fame had reached the city of Mexico. The other was not so handsome, but her figure would have served for a model. We also visited at the house of Don Manuel Luna. This man is an oddity. He is a native of Old Spain, and came to Mexico as a common soldier ; but not finding the trade of arms productive, although by no means deficient in personal courage, he laid by his sword and took to 54 A LAUGHING COLONEL. the counter, which he found to answer his purpose better. By degrees he accumulated considerable wealth, and is now amongst the most opulent mer- chants of Guadalaxara. The most extraordinary man I met in this place, however, was a blind assayer, who is considered to be the best in the whole repub- lic of Mexico. An old colonel who used to be invited with us to dine at Luna’s house, had such a propensity to laughter, that, after having once yielded to its influence, he could not restrain himself so long as any thing remained to excite it. I used to make him burst into a horse- laugh whenever I chose, only by winking at him ridiculously. Upon one occasion, when a great num- ber of persons were assembled at table, a fancy came across me to try whether a grin and an odd remark would have the same effect upon him in company. It answered marvellously well ! He could not re- strain a burst of laughter, which rather startled the rest of the party ; to whom, however, I managed to convey a hint, and they immediately entered into the spirit of the joke. Each, in his turn, told some extraordinary anecdote, or made some odd remark ; at which the Colonel burst out anew, till at last his laughter became quite alarming. The consequence was, that he did not swallow one mouthful during dinner ; for, no sooner did he attempt to introduce a bit of food into his odd mouth, which, even then, was distorted by a suppressed grin, than some one made a laughable observation, which again excited the poor man’s risible propensity, and the meat was suf- LEAVE GUADALAXARA. 55 fered to return to his plate untasted. He afterwards complained, that, in addition to his having lost his dinner, his sides were quite sore with the exertion. December 29th. — Having taken leave of my friends, I quitted Guadalaxara, where I had been so well entertained. I ought to observe, en passant, that this city has long been celebrated for the pugnacious character of its inhabitants in all matters which re- late to politics. It was here that the revolution was brought to maturity ; the rise and fall of Iturbide was here fomented, and here also the law for the banishment of old Spaniards was passed in its senate. But of this I shall have to speak in another place, and ought not to anticipate it here. Our route lay to the westward ; road sandy and heavy ; the sun very powerful. There are huts on both sides of the road, to the doors and windows of which, plantains are suspended to tempt the pas- senger. We met some muleteers in litters, who had been plundered and severely wounded on the 28th, at the ruined Garita, about two leagues from Gua- dalaxara, through which we afterwards passed un- molested. We arrived at seven, p. m. at the village of Amatitan, prettily situated at the foot of a rug- ged hill, which furnishes the inhabitants with wood for charcoal, to supply Guadalaxara. There was no meson, and only one small room in the place to be had for love or money ; and in this apartment slept other five associates, whom we rather suspected to have participated in the robbery at the Garita the evening preceding. We kept our eyes upon them 56 LA MAD ALENA. with considerable suspicion, but they did not seem to heed us, and presently began to snore. We were all dreadfully fatigued ; and having partaken of a hearty supper, we banished our suspicions, and slept without once turning during the night, in spite of heat and fleas. December 30th. — We resumed our journey. Three leagues on the road, to the north-west, is the populous town of Tequila, surrounded by gardens and sugar-plantations, as well as a species of the Mague, which here degenerates into a weaker plant than those about Mexico, yielding pulque, the fa- vourite beverage of the country. Here there is no pulque at all ; the plant is made to ferment, and a strong whiskey is obtained from it by distillation, which is called chinguerite. The sugar-cane grows here luxuriantly, as there are both warmth and water, two very essential requisites for its matura- tion. Having passed through Tequila, the road takes the direction of a sandy Canada of consider- able length, the approach to which is a steep ascent. The hill abounds with obsidian ; indeed there are scarcely any other stones, and they are used for building walls. Travelling through this ravine, which in the rainy seasons serves as a water-course, is very fatiguing to the mules, and scarcely less so to the rider, as the large branches of trees, which extend from one side to the other, oblige the tra- veller to be continually lowering his head and body, to enable him to pass under them. We reached La Madalena, at two P. m. This town is situated THE REAL OF OSTOSTAPAQUILLO. 57 in a valley, near a large lake bearing the same name, and producing excellent fish, of which we partook at dinner — but the descent to it is considerably rugged. The Real of Santo Thomas is near this place ; and the Real of Ostostapaquillo is within view to the left of the road, three miles hence. The accommodation in the meson we found not to be very bad or very dirty, having been lately built. The town itself is very pretty, with gardens of orange-trees, myrtle, and jessamine in full blossom. The lake too, although distant about a mile to the westward, is a pretty object. December 31st. — Left at seven, a. m. Road tolerably good for the distance of six leagues N.N. W.; then commence the far-famed barrancas of Miche- tiltic. Any thing equal to the descent I never saw, nor could I have conceived any thing so monstrously bad. The roads on the island, whose horrid preci- pices and immeasurably deep chasms concealed the waters of oblivion from Sadi’s sight, were macadam- ized when compared with this. It is in fact nothing more than a channel, cut in the sand-stone of the hill, by the friction of water falling over it in the rainy season, which had left little irregular waterfalls, and occasioned fantastic windings wherever the softer parts of the rock had yielded to the trituration of the current. The width scarcely admitted the passing of a mule. Every step of the animal was a leap of at least eighteen inches or two feet, and the juttings of the rock on either side made it necessary for the rider to sit with his heels on the animal’s neck. 58 PRECIPICES. to prevent his knees coming in contact with the pro- truding stones. Fortunately the descent is not more than three hundred yards. Arrived at the bottom, we came to another passage, composed as it were of large loose rocks, of enormous size, forming very in- convenient stone steps, over which the traveller must pass and descend again on the other side. The sur- rounding precipices, which are deep, disguise their ruggedness by the verdure that eternally covers them, as there is here no want of water. The trees grow to a large size, and the tuna, which threw out a white cottony substance from its extreme points, gave notice that it was in flower. Our progress being slow, I was enabled to examine the surrounding country, which seemed to be en- tirely composed of a succession of precipices, covered, except where it was absolutely perpendicular, with trees and shrubs ; and before us appeared a hill, down the almost perpendicular side of which, there was something which resembled a water-course. What must have been my astonishment the next morning to discover that we had absolutely to pass over the same track ! We had not travelled far in this detestable, al- though charmingly picturesque Canada, before we came to a hut, in which we took up our residence for the night. We arrived at about four, P. M. dreadfully fatigued and galled by the journey and heat. Nothing can be more romantically situated than the cottage, by the side of a stream of water, trickling with a gentle murmur over the stones which BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 59 obstructed its course, imparting a delicious freshness to the air, so different from what we had respired for the last twenty-four hours ; and shaded by the wide-spreading branches of enormous trees overhang- ing it, and orange-trees, whose fruit welcomed the thirsty traveller. Animals were grazing in situations which it would be thought they could have reach- ed only by the aid of wings ; brushing away with their perpetually moving tails the feverish flies. The grasshopper sounded its monotonous trumpet, and the owner of this wild domain was reposing under the shade of a species of viranda, while his more industrious wife was employed in knitting stockings? and their happy children in devouring oranges, that gave an air of enchantment to the scene, the impres- sion of which, it will not be easy to forget ! The only watchful guardian was a dog, who gave notice of our approach by a surly growl, which once or twice he was so rude as to suffer to increase to a loud howl, probably to arouse his master, who conti- nued sleeping till we arrived at his door. Here we had plenty of food for our animals ; and much they needed it, as well as rest. As for myself, I took a bath in the deeper part of the cool and crys- talline water, which thoroughly refreshed me ; and after supper, made up my bed beneath a large tree, growing by the side of the cottage, where I expected to pass the night in tranquillity ; but I was disap- pointed. Not even in this fairy retirement is man exempted from the penalty of suffering, or permitted to feel himself the possessor of uninterrupted bliss. 60 REFLECTIONS ON MORTALITY. The buzzing and biting of the mosquito soon remind him of the inheritance of mortality, and he finds his little paradise invaded by many mortifications. Were it not for these, who would submit to live in courts and crowded cities, inhaling the very air which his neighbour has before respired, cramped up in noisome habitations, his ears assailed by a confusion of noises, and his nose by pestiferous vapours, languid for want of exercise, and indolent for want of wholesome occupation, sleeping badly and feeding worse, or wasting in gaudy splendour a life of inutility to his species, and of dissatisfaction to himself ! Such was the train of my reflections, when I found it impossi- ble any longer to sleep ; so, wisely considei’ing that I was losing precious time, I quitted the tree, and crept into the house, where I lay down on the floor, from which I did not rise till six in the morning. I then made a breakfast of bread and milk, and bade adieu to the landlord, whom, although mightily civil, I cannot say I wished to see again, if, in order to do so, it would be necessary to travel over the same stones, for road it could not be called. January 1st, 1826. — This is new-year’s day, and I hope I may have many happy returns of it, and never again pass over so detestable a track ! Im- mediately after leaving the cottage, we began to ascend the almost perpendicular hill which yester- day we took notice of, in the confidence that it would never be our hard fate to mount it. Up, however, we were forced to go. The road was made zigzag ; and even then it was almost im- AGUACATLAN. 61 passably steep ; so much so indeed, that a drove of mules which preceded us, when ascending the second and third turnings of the road, appeared to be perpendicularly above us ; so that, if they had fallen, they must have come upon our heads. This may appear like exaggeration, but it is lite- rally true, although I myself could scarcely believe it when I witnessed it. After having ascended with exemplary patience about a league, the cottage in the Canada still in view, but looking no bigger than a bee-hive, we reached the summit, to our great joy, and present- ly lost sight of the barrancas of Michitiltic. I took a last view, however, of the scenery, which is ma- jestically beautiful. This confusion of mountain, precipice, and valley, affords no indifferent idea of the appearance of the world when it was yet ec with- out form,” — a perfect chaos ! Having proceeded some distance along the road which leads from the summit behind us, we observ- ed, lying on the ground, a cannon dismounted. It was a sixteen pounder, which Father Mercado had left six or eight years ago in the same situation that it now occupies. We saw by the road side maize-plantations, but the crops had been harvested. To the right is a village of considerable size. We had now travelled three leagues, and were approach- ing the town of Astlan, through which we passed. Three leagues farther, is another town, of the name of Aguacatlan, where we arrived at four P. M. and halted for the night. 62 A PROCURADOR. The house at which we put up, was that of the this-day-elected “ Procurador.” He was the very pink of perfection in his military dress ; for he had been a soldier, although he now condescended to be a retailer of spirits, and of cottons by the yard. He assured us with all that display of assumed modesty which a man puts on wdio has newly been appointed to an important office, for which he has neither merit nor capacity, that although he had not resided in the town a sufficient length of time to entitle him legally to hold the situation, the in- habitants had, vi et armis, obliged him to accept it. A custom “ obtains here,” that when a Procurador is newly elected, he must give refreshments gratis, to all who may choose to call upon him ; but as he considered that we as extra-visitors had no legal claim to this customary tax upon his hospitality, he was so polite as to introduce all the good things to which he had treated us, and perhaps the neigh- bours too, into our bill ! In the evening we called upon the Alcalde, who, with his family, was hearing the recitation of ex- tempore verses before his door, music filling up the cadence when the poet retired to refresh his me- mory, or regale himself with a drop of his honour’s bottle ! This was beginning well the new year ! January 2nd. — We left our worthy Procurador at seven. This day’s road was very hilly indeed ; we did nothing but ascend and descend through a very prettily wooded country. At five P. M. we began to descend a “ cuesta” (precipice). The road. TEPIC. 63 like that at Michitiltic, is zigzag, and it was enter- taining to observe the mules before us, winding their way along the serpentine path, which presented the appearance of each taking a distinct road. At eight p. M. we arrived at the rancho de San Leonen, sixteen leagues from Aguacatlan. The cottage con- tained several ugly Indian women, who imagined that their beauty was particularly attractive, and made themselves, so they fancied, most agreeable. The father of these hopeful divinities was a surly old fellow, who, speaking of those of the present generation, said they were “ monstrously green.” Supper over, we retired to bed. January 3rd. — We left San Leonen, at six a. M. and shortly afterwards entered an open plain, upon which stands Tepic, which we reached by a pretty good road, at noon. I had letters to the house of Messrs Herrera and Ritchie of this place. Mr. Herrera received us kindly, and lodged us in his house, which is a very comfortable one, in the heart of the town. Our mules, which were in a sad plight, we sent to the meson, where two of them died from the fatigues of the journey. It is in- conceivable how much animals suffer in Mexico, and how few of them survive a long journey. 64 CHAPTER IV. Diving Bell. — Native gold. — Quits Pitic. — A genius. — A ferry. — Sheep-ticks, — Rio Canas, — The inhospitality of a gaoler, and of a Cura. — Curious fruit. — Sympathy in plants. — An old Englishman. — Modesty. — Character of Don Miguel Riesgo. — A gold mine. — A chemist. — Leaves Rosario. — Ar- rives at Mazatlan. — The Commandant and his wife. Tepic is a large town containing from six to seven thousand inhabitants, perhaps more ; but the expectations which I had formed of it were sadly disappointed. It has, however, a very pretty river (a branch of the Rio Grande,) passing close to the environs, and on many parts of the banks of which some groves have been planted. The distance of this town to the port of San Bias, is eighteen leagues of bad road. Its situation is not insalu- brious, although there is a sailowness of countenance in many of the natives which would lead to a con- trary opinion. January 4th. — Called upon Mr. Barrow, the English Consul ; a gentleman of great information, and excellent abilities. He received me with much cordiality, and was so obliging as to give me some useful hints about the Pearl Fishery, and to furnish MEXICAN CHARACTERS. 65 me with copies of the best charts. He likewise introduced me to Don Felix Ornelas, who express- ed great dissatisfaction at Capt. B. H. s having re- lated an anecdote of him, which, Don Felix thought, might, from private considerations of friendship, have been omitted. He has some fine specimens of pearl and native gold, and gave me some good practical instructions. He was formerly a pearl-fisher. He told me that the diving-bell could not possibly answer, not only from the unevenness of the bottom of the gulf, but likewise on account of the under-currents, which are strong ; — and he mentioned that an Italian priest, lately deceased, had conceived the plan of a wooden bell ; but that this had entirely failed, owing to the above causes. I was incredulous ; but he assured me that the result would justify the opinion he had expressed. He made me a present of the chart which had served him in the gulf ; and I always found him extremely polite and obliging. I next paid a visit to Senor Cubillos, a Spaniard, and the possessor of a lump of native gold which weighs sixty-eight ounces. He is a rich merchant. Mr. Herrera, who is a native of Chili, is a clever young man. From him I received great civilities, and he introduced me to the family of Colonel Negrete, whose wife is a native of Spain. She is the most lady-like woman in her manners and conversation of any with whom I had yet become acquainted in Mexico. We had many arguments together re- specting the comparative advantages of a town or F 66 LETTER OF INTRODUCTION. country life, in which she manifested great good sense, education, and feeling. Her person is small, but her features are very pretty. January 10th. — Having sufficiently recruited the strength of our wretched beasts, and purchased others to supply the place of those already defunct, we took leave of our friends at Tepic. The day was extremely hot, and the dust prodigiously trou- blesome. At four, P. M., we came to the Hacienda of Don Pedro Negrete, (no relation of the former,) a native of Biscay, to whom I brought a letter of in- troduction from one of the Deputies of Guadalaxara. He was so polite as to receive me with as much coolness as if I had come to ask payment of an old bill ! We found him sitting at the door of his one- room-house, superintending the repairs of an old box, which, judging from its venerable appearance, might have served Noah for a sea-chest. He is of middling stature, with a red visage ; wears spec- tacles, stuck on, as in olden time, at the extremity of his pointed nose. He had on no jacket, and the sleeves of his shirt were turned up to the elbow ; nor did he disdain to confine his half-grey locks of hair in an old pocket-handkerchief. His age might be about forty-five, and from the nervous irritability which his small grey eyes expressed, combined with his odd figure and odd occupation, he showed that the love of gain was the most predominating pas- sion in his breast. He seemed not to understand the import of a letter of introduction, the study of which engrossed THE MASTER PASSION. 67 him so completely, that for a long time he did not even offer us a seat on a block of timber which was placed by the side of his house, to serve the purpose either of a bench or a bed. It evidently annoyed him very considerably, and he presently left us to our reflections, and began bellowing like a mad bull, to his labourers, by way of taking off the rough edge of his passion. He was tranquillized, however, when we assured him that every thing should be paid for. To obtain this assurance, pro- bably, he had acted the madman, and now that the paroxysm was over, he suddenly became very at- tentive. He gave us a bad dinner ; and afterwards showed us his sugar mills and boilers, which he said yielded a good profit. After supper he order- ed my bed to be made up in the inside of the house, where he also slept, having already exacted the payment of our bill ! Thus our letter of intro- duction turned out rather to his profit, in spite of his fearful anticipations on our arrival. I ought to have mentioned that he made me pay for a bowl of milk, although he himself drank half of it ! The Hacienda is eight leagues from Tepic. January 11th. — Left at six, a. m. — road in- famous. At the distance of five leagues we pass- ed through a literally “ deserted village.” From hence the road descends rapidly through a well- wooded country, which affords a grateful shelter from the burning heat of the sun. During the whole of our journey from Mexico, so far as we had yet proceeded, we observed the same species 68 A HASTY SUPPER. of tree, shrub, thorn and flower, which, considering the distance, and the different elevations of the lands, is somewhat extraordinary. At eleven, a. m., we reached the Rio de Santiago, having left the village of Soutla two leagues behind us. This river, during the rainy season, is very broad, deep, and rapid; but now its width had shrunk to within the compass of three hundred yards ; never- theless we were obliged to cross in a canoe. The ferry in the rainy season is very dangerous, and many lives, as well as much cattle, are lost in crossing. On the other side is the village of Santiago, the popula- tion of which is small. Having reloaded our mules, we proceeded along the northern bank of the river, for the distance of half a league, where the road turns off to the northward, through brushwood and palm- trees. At eight, p. M., we arrived at the Rio de San Pedro, which is much smaller than that of Santiago. There are here only two miserable huts, which give shelter, if shelter it can be called, to benighted tra- vellers. The road between the two rivers is very pretty; it winds among tall trees and flowering shrubs for the distance of seven leagues ; but as the dew is here at all seasons heavy, we were tolerably moistened before we arrived at San Pedro, where we took up our quarters for the night. The inmates, we found, had supper provided only for themselves ; and having now, with their newly-arrived guests, a considerable addition to their number, it became ne- cessary to add to the frijoles already placed on the NO BREAKFAST. 69 fire to boil. This bean requires a long time to pre- pare, a circumstance which ill suited the impatience of a hungry traveller. A companion of ours who came with us from Guadalaxara, whose appetite was always voracious, having repeatedly inquired whether supper was ready, and as constantly received the same reply of “luego” (presently), in a fit of despe- ration, snatched up a couple of raw eggs, and accom" panied the act by gestures which, in the eyes of the natives, wore rather an alarming aspect. Having swallowed the eggs, he next began to munch raw grain, tearing it with his teeth from an ear of Indian corn which the cook had been preparing to roast. However, this had the effect of hastening the supper. During the night the mosquitoes were very trou- blesome. January 12th. — We crossed the river at six, a. M., and proceeded at a brisk pace along the shin- gles of the river for one league, when we turned off, taking the same direction of the compass (due north) as the day before. At the distance of five leagues we came to the village of Rosa Morada ; but as we could there procure nothing for breakfast, passed on. Thence to the village of Buena Vista the distance is six leagues, along a very flat country, which, owing to the deep tracks made by the hoofs of former horses and mules, bears manifest proofs of its unfitness for travelling during the rainy season. But Buena Vista also disappointed our hopes respect- ing food, and accordingly we continued the route to San Antonio. The heat during the day was dreadfuil ; 70 INHOSPITABLE GAOLER ; the thermometer stood at 93° in the shade ; and as the road was very dusty and full of garra-patas (sheep-ticks), we were shockingly annoyed. From San Antonio, where there is only one small hut, we continued our journey ; and having proceeded one league, our mules began to descend the steep bank of the Rio Canas, cautiously introducing their feet into deep holes, resembling steps, made by the successive tread of animals, and which prevented their sliding down to the bottom. The Canas is only a small river ; the road on the other side is very heavy, passing for the distance of three leagues, along a ravine, emerging from which, we arrived at the Rio de Acoponeta, which we forded, and entered the town of the same name at eight, P. M , having per- formed a journey of twenty leagues without food or water. There being here no Meson for the accommoda- tion of travellers, I called upon the Alcalde, who in such cases must assign a lodging to all who bear pass- ports. He took me to a viranda on the outside of the gaol ; but so great was the want of hospitality at this place, that even the gaoler refused to open his door. I was thus obliged to take up my lodging on the outside. Previous, however, to doing this, I re- solved, as a last resource, (knowing that in this country the curas keep good houses and good tables,) to as- certain whether the one here were a good Samaritan. As I approached his door, I heard the laughing voices of females within. I nevertheless ventured to rap at the door, when a gruff voice demanded, “ Who is AND WORSE CURATE. 71 there? ’ I answered, “ A traveller.” “ Que le vaya listed con Dios,” was the reply ; “ then pass on and God be with thee at the same time saluting the door with a severe kick. I returned to my quarters, got a good supper, and composed myself to rest, not how- ever without placing my pistols and sword close to my side ; a precaution which I thought quite neces- sary from the questionable character of my neigh- bours within ! January 13th. — Left Acoponeta at six, a. m. The road is intricate, owing to the numerous paths which diverge in all directions, made by cattle ; and as there is no distinction between these and the high road, it is easy to take a wrong one. We proceeded at a full trot, and reached the village of La Bayona at seven, where we halted to breakfast. We after- wards crossed the river of the same name, which at times forsakes its banks. It serves as a boundary to divide the two provinces of Xalisco or Guadalaxara (formerly new Galicia,) from Sonora, although some say the Rio Canas is the boundary. The mode practised here of conveying fresh water from the river to the houses, is by two large leathern bags, which are hung across a donkey’s back, the lower part nearly touching the ground. These bags do not leak, and they supersede the use of earthen pitchers, which, in all parts of the country to the southward of Acaponeta, are carried by men or women. On the road, we passed by numbers of dry salt- lakes, in one of which I succeeded, after great diffi- 72 SYMPATHETIC PLANTS. culty, in killing an armadillo. The heat was into- lerable, and not a drop of water was to be met with. Here a thorn grows in the extensive plain which bears a kind of fruit, in size, shape, and colour, resembling a lemon, but containing no moisture. This fruit ap- pears as if stuck on the different branches, without any order or design, and by one whose mouth is parched with excessive thirst, it is seized like the voluntary offering of bountiful nature to alleviate his sufferings. But alas ! the excited hopes of the traveller are cru- elly disappointed ; for, upon examining the fruit, which like that said to grow on the plains of Sodom and Gomorrah, he finds it to be dry and puffy, and throws it from him in despair. I likewise observed a curious creeper, entwining itself round the stems of the palm-trees. In some instances its folds bore a striking resemblance to a print I have seen in “ Paradise Lost,” where the ser- pent is made to enfold the tree of the forbidden fruit. Round some also it appears to have been artificially plaited ; in others again, the stem of the palm is com- pletely hidden, its head inclined downwards, while the creeper itself seems to assume the solidity of a tree. If there be sympathy in plants, surely it is seen in these. The palm, in its youth, supported the infant creeper ; whilst the latter, in its maturity, as if in gratitude for former benefits, maintains within its embrace the declining powers of the palm, and pro- tects its decaying trunk from the effects of age, and the violence of the storm ! At the distance of twenty-three leagues from La A FELLOW COUNTRYMAN. 73 Bayona, we arrived at a sugar mill, where we obtain- ed water. So great was my thirst, that I almost expected to have fairly emptied the well. Those who wish to taste deliciously-sweet water, and desire to estimate truly the value of this wholesome beve- rage, need only take such a journey as that I made to-day. The parched earth was seen cracked in every direction, and in every form, yawning to catch the slightest moisture from either rain or dew; in some places, even opening into chasms, so wide and deep, as to render it dangerous for the mules to pass over them. Esquinapa lies one league beyond this well, and here we arrived at six, p. M. The population amounts to about four hundred. We had scarcely alighted from our jaded beasts before we received a visit from an old Englishman, half naked. He told us that, many years ago, he had been made a prisoner by the Spaniards, and was long confined in prison ; but being liberated when Iturbide became Emperor, he had, since that time, taken up his residence here. He is a drunken old fellow, and his principal object in calling upon us was to obtain a few rials, to gratify his passion for liquor. He says that he is now too old to leave his present residence, which, I should think, was wretched enough ; but as he is seldom sober, he occupies himself little with unpleasant re- flections. Here we slept. January 14th. — Left Esquinapa at six, a. m. The distance hence to Rosario is four leagues ; — weather sultry ; roads dusty and bad. At eight 74 A COMMISSARY -GENERAL. we approached the banks of the river, which were covered with clothes extended to bleach and dry, by washerwomen, most of whom were nearly, if not quite, in a state of nudity ; nor were they in the least abashed by the approach of strangers, of whose presence indeed they seemed scarcely sensible. The river is small, and its water remarkably lim- pid. We were obliged to visit the Custom-house, where our baggage was examined ; and I afterwards took apartments in a neat cottage, in the viranda of which some very good-looking young ladies were seen, extended at full length in a knit hammock, suspended from the columns of the house “ portal,” and swinging themselves, by way of creating a draught of cool air. The first person to whom I paid my respects on my arrival here, was Don Miguel Riesgo, Commis- sary-general of the united provinces of Sonora and Sinaloa. I was the bearer of official as well as of private letters to him, all of which related to me in my capacity of Commissioner of the General Pearl and Coral Company. I found him occupied in dictat- ing dispatches to four clerks at the same time, which he appeared to do with the greatest facility, even while holding a conversation with me upon indif- ferent subjects. Whether he owed this facility to memory or talent, it is difficult to determine, as both these qualities may exist separately ; but when they happen to be united in the same individual, who also possesses a correct judgment, we need not wonder at the result. In order to ascertain if such a com- FULL LENGTH PORTRAITS. 75 bination exist, much deliberate investigation of the individual in whom any one of these qualities may be found, is necessary ; and it was, therefore, impossible for me to decide in the case of Don Miguel. How- ever, as he is the most remarkable person in Rosario, I shall endeavour to give a full-length portrait of him, observing only, that he sat to me but a few times. Riesgo is a man whose jesuitically straight-combed hair and hard features are considered, by those who know him best, to betray the peculiar characteristics of his mind. The perpendicular furrows on his face showed that the softening influence of a smile was a stranger there, or, at least, that the expression was “ like Angels’ visits, few, and far between,” strongly indicating his habitual thoughtfulness and cold cal- culation. The expression of his prominent eye showed quickness of penetration, and, to a close observer, unsubdued irritability, and a certain si- nister and sycophantic disposition, which gave to his tout ensemble the air of a courtier, joined to the sternness and pride of a Republican in office. His firm tread was that of a man who knew that his authority gave him importance, and had placed him in a situation to make even his smallest wish obeyed by his inferiors. His whole carriage indicated that he was neither ignorant of the great advantages of possessing talents and education, nor careful to dis- guise the supercilious contempt which he entertained for the greater part of those by whom he was usually surrounded. 76 MAGIC INFLUENCE. Yet, with all the consciousness of his own im- portance and mental superiority, there was a lurk- ing expression about Riesgo’s mouth, which indicated the absence of entire tranquillity, and gave rise to the suspicion of some hidden weakness in his com- position. Wherever there exist great talent and apparent severity of conduct, combined with excess of self- approbation, and desire of praise, there is always discoverable some weak point of character. That amour propre, which derives its food even from the most corrupt sources, fails not to thrive by the applause which, presenting itself in the most seduc- tive form, contributes most to its gratification. The most stubborn heart bends to the attractive softness of woman, who, by her native and untaught blan- dishments, smiles away the severity of the warrior’s frown, and by the magic influence of her mellifluous voice, gentle aspirations, and affectionate devoted- ness, chases the harsh expression from his brow, and melts him into tenderness ! So thought Riesgo, if the voice of fame may be trusted. Certain it is, that although absent from his wife and family, he was not condemned to forego the pleasures of female society. But ever-waking scandal, we well know, seeks to fix upon the noblest and most exalted, in order to level them with the common standard of mankind ; and may, therefore, have wantonly in- flicted an undeserved wound in the character of Don Miguel Riesgo. Whether or not he sustained unmerited injury from such reports, he certainly suffered much in the cause of the Revolution. DANGEROUS NAVIGATION. At his own table we found him hospitable, and exceedingly entertaining in his conversation, which teemed with anecdote and severe satire, in the indis- criminate use of which last he was by no means sparing, either to friend or foe. In this respect, he might be said to possess something of the ferocity of the tiger, when in pursuit of his devoted and un- conscious prey. He had studied too, and understood, the ingenious and fanciful system of Gall and Spur- zheim, of which he was enthusiastically fond. In his youth he had, I believe, been educated by the Jesuits, and, as I understood, written a pamphlet in their justification. I would fain attempt to re- late some of his very curious stories ; but it would be impossible to retain the same spirit, and, above all, the same quaint mode of expression. Many reasons rendered it necessary for me to obtain from him permission to employ a small vessel in the Gulf of California, notwithstanding there was no clause in the Government license to that effect. The navigation of the head of this Gulf was so wholly unknown, and was supposed to contain so many dangerous shoals, that previous to my de- parture from Mexico, both Mr. Exter and myself were persuaded that a large vessel would be un- manageable for the purpose of its navigation, and that we should not be warranted in endangering the lives of the crew of the Wolf, (the vessel which we understood was to be sent out by the Company with a diving-bell,) where there was so great a probability of her destruction. Accordingly, I opened the ne- 78 MINES OF ROSARIO. gociation with the Commissary-general, which began in conversation and ended in correspondence. The result was, however, entirely to my satisfaction, and a small vessel was subsequently ordered to be pur- chased. The one we had in view was daily expected to arrive on the coast, and her size did not exceed thirty tons. I preserved the letters of Riesgo, as spe- cimens of his style and energy, no less than on ac- count of the friendly feeling which they express towards myself. Rosario was once famous for the wealth of its three gold and silver mines, the discovery of which was made by a person who happened accidentally to have dropped his “ Rosario ” as he was passing the spot, from which circumstance it takes its name. On stooping down to take it up, he observed some min- eral appearances ; and on examining more narrowly, he encountered a specimen so rich, that he resolved to work the vein upon which he had found it. In a short time, he became the most opulent man in the province. The excavations are extraordinary, but for many years past have fallen into disrepute, and have filled with water. The present proprietor has expended upwards of one hundred and twenty thou- sand dollars, notwithstanding which, the mine, it is said, will be shortly in “ bonanza ” (pay a large profit)! The mouth of the mine is about a hundred yards from the church. The vein, which extends under the whole of the Real, has been worked ; and it is reported, that no one has yet been able to follow its subterraneous windings to their termination. A DUTCH DOCTOR. 79 This is the first Real which I had seen since my arrival in Mexico. All miners are alike immoral and prodigal ; and as they have often been described, I shall be excused if I make no further observation respecting them. The great peculiarity of this mine is, that it is situated on nearly a flat plain, where no one would even have dreamed of its existence, or have thought of looking for it: but for its accidental discovery its worth might have been left for the in- heritance of some future generation. January 16th. — Received a visit from an old phlegmatic Dutchman, who it appears is a self-consti- tuted doctor, and keeps a chemist’s shop. His first inquiry was for drugs, and he invited me to visit his laboratory. In the afternoon I went to his house, and was introduced into a room, the only one besides the kitchen, where I found both him and his wife taking the siesta. He offered me a glass of pepper- mint, which he assured me was of his own distilling^ and with which himself and wife regaled their palates^ at short intervals, during the day and night. He was very indignant at not getting good practice, which he attributed to the prejudices of the natives against foreigners ; but having sufficiently inhaled the fumes of his excellent distillery, I took my leave. On my return to my lodgings I found a queer fish of a friar, who had some years ago, in company with Garcia Conde, worked mines in Upper Sonora, and who during the Revolution had suffered greatly from the ill-usage of the troops who had taken him priso- ner, and had made him ride, manacled and pinioned, 80 AN UNEASY COUCH. on a trotting donkey, from Arisp6 to Durango. He is now a sort of supernumerary cura, visits wherever there are ladies, and tells stories gratui- tously. “ The heat of the weather here is excessively hot,” as a North American friend of mine once wrote me word. I brought with me letters of introduction from Mexico and Tepic to Sehor Flutes, and his partner, Mr. Wyllie, an intelligent young man ; and as they had now at Mazatlan, a sea-port eighteen leagues from hence, a vessel on the point of sailing for Guayamas, they kindly proposed my taking a passage in her, which I accepted, and on the 18th I quitted Rosario, accompanied by the Commissary-general Riesgo and other companions, at five, p. m. On the road, we passed through a succession of currents of air, some hot, some cold, the cause of which I could not ascertain. Sehor Riesgo did not accom- pany us far ; and at nine we arrived at Aguas Calientes, where we slept upon our empty stomachs, for there was no food to be found. January 19th — Set off early, and arrived at the Presidio of Mazatlan at eleven, a. m. The road is good, but seriously infested with sheep- ticks, which annoyed me considerably. On my ar- rival, I waited on Mr. Short and Mr. Espeleta. Both these gentlemen are, I understand, on the point of being married, or as some have said, on similar occasions, being marred. The former is en- gaged to a daughter of Yrriarte, the owner of the famous gold mine of Cosala ; the latter, to the sister marattan. 81 of Cubillos, of Tepic. I formerly knew Mr. Short at Buenos Ayres ; he is a merry fellow, and was particularly obliging. A Mr. Haskins, who is with him, is a particularly amiable young man, and from him I received great civilities. Mr. Espeleta, to whom Mr. Barron was so kind as to give me a letter of introduction, is a native of Spain, but went out early in life to the East Indies, where, in Calcutta, he learned to speak our language as correctly as an Englishman. My knowledge of quackery was here brought into requisition. A man who lived in the house which received myself and a medicine chest, I found exceedingly ill in bed of a cold, and a bilious attack. I set to work with an emetic, which I fol- lowed up with five grains of Mr. Abernethy’s nos- trum, the blue pill ; and the next day he was on his feet again. January 20th. — Left at seven, a. m., and ar- rived at the port of Mazatlan at noon, having gone round an arm of the sea. Here I made inquiries respecting a newly-discovered pearl bed, which, in Tepic, I had understood was likely to turn out ex- ceedingly well. Mr. Haskins, who accompanied me to the port, took me to the house of a person em- ployed by him, of the name of M'Alister, who said he knew the situation, and would show it to the supercargo of the Wolf whenever she should arrive. Of this vessel I had, as yet, received no news, either good or bad. I next called on Mr. Santoya, the Commandant of the Resguarda, to whom I delivered a letter of introduction from his friend Ramos Arispe. a 821 PREPARATIONS FOR A SEA- VOYAGE. This gentleman is a literary character, of what merit I know not ; but his chief reputation arose from his having been sentenced, on account of political offences, upon three different occasions, to be shot ; a fate from which he was only saved by the exer- tions of his amiable wife, now living with him here. I obtained a promise from the Commandant, that the Wolf should not be molested in the attempt I intended to make for pearls ; and I wrote particular instructions to the supercargo relative to this busi- ness. These I left with Mr. Haskins, who promised to deliver them safely, and to render every service in his power in forwarding the views of our Com- pany. I had now made all the necessary arrangements, and therefore prepared myself for a sea-voyage, by laying in a stock of fruit, of which a good supply can be obtained here. 83 CHAPTER V. A wreck. — Servants refuse to embark. — A cabin passenger. — A surveyor. — New mode of admeasurement. — Arrival at the Port of Guavmas. — A tender Captain. — A songstress. — The founde r of the Port. — Reptiles. — Revolution of Indians. — Quit Guaymas.— A rencontre. — A discovery. — Arrive at Pitic. — New Characters. — Opinions respect- ing pearl-beds in the gulf. — An Italian priest. — A wooden diving-bell. — Extravagancies. — A portrait. — Abuses. During my stay in Mazatlan, I learned that a wreck had been seen off Cape San Lucas, by the captain of a coasting vessel lately arrived, who re- ported that she appeared to be of about eighty tons burden, and was lying bottom upwards. Nine months had now elapsed since the Wolf had been expected to leave England, although I had no posi- tive advices of her having sailed ; and as the time usually necessary for a voyage round Cape Horn is scarcely more than half that period, it was not pos- sible to suppose that she could still be afloat ; if, in- deed, the directors had actually sent her off, and g 2 84 SERVANTS REFUSE TO EMBARK. even of this circumstance I, at length, began to en- tertain some doubts. In short, conjecture as to her fate had no point whereon to ground itself, and this uncertainty led me to connect that vessel with each shipwreck on the coast, which I had ascertained to have occurred. January 22d.— We took leave of our friends, and embarked in the Cocula, a small schooner of about forty-five or fifty tons, belonging to Fletes of Rosario, and nominally commanded by the brother of that gentleman. We had an exceedingly bois- terous navigation of seventeen days, with a tedious short sea. There were other passengers on board, of whom I shall speak ; but, before I proceed, it will be necessary to relate the difficulty I had with my servants respecting their embarkation. They had never before seen a vessel, and they expressed so great an abhorrence of the ocean, that I began to fear, should they persevere in their intention to quit my service, that I should suffer serious incon- venience ; the difficulty of procuring others, equally entitled to my confidence, being very considerable. I prevailed upon one of them, however, to accom- pany me, and I furnished the other with the means of returning to his friends. We had been at sea only a few days, when we discovered that our fresh provisions were every day more scantily supplied to the cabin table. Upon inquiring into the cause, Mr. Dartforth, the mate, an American, told us that Captain Gil Fletes, who DISCOMFORTS OF A SEA-VOYAGE. 85 was a youth fond of the bottle and of merriment, had spent all the money which his brother sent for the purchase of provisions for the voyage, in dances at Mazatlan, an amusement of which he was quite as fond as of showing his gallantry, by inviting all the fair ladies of that port with whom his good stars had led him to form acquaintance. He is a curious fellow, and never sleeps without a bottle under his pillow, with the diminishing contents of which he moistens his throat during the uncomfortable move- ments of the vessel at night. The cabin of the Cocula was unique: filled with trunks, casks of hog’s lard, salt pork and salt junk, frying-pans, quadrants, oil bottles, empty wine bottles and bags ; all in elegant confusion, and in sympathetic movement with the vessel. A muddy twilight only was seen to enter through the closed hatches (the weather being very stormy), add to which, the groans of a sick fellow-traveller, who for want of a wash-hand bowl, made use of a half-emptied bread cask — the floor rendered slippery through involuntary contri- butions from an occasional upset of a barrel of but- ter, into which the black cook, twice a day, intro- duced his yet more greasy hand, to take out the quantity required for cooking beans for our meals — all these things not a little contributed to the dis- comforts of a sea-voyage, rendered still more dis- agreeable by bad water, and the apprehensions of our being soon unable to keep body and soul together, for want of food of any description ; unless, indeed. 86 A CABIN PASSENGER. we could manage to salt down the flesh of a contin- ually-barking little dog which belonged to the cap- tain. Mr. Dartforth is a rough sailor, but very obliging, and equally attentive to the safety of the vessel. His salary is fifty dollars a month, which on a coast like that of Mexico, is far too little for either his necessities or his merit. The next person I shall introduce to my reader is one of quite a different character; a tall, raw- boned, but tolerably well-looking man, who wore what in this country are called Moorish pantaloons, which consisted of nearly as much canvass as the Cocula had in her sails ! His age might have been about thirty-five, and his deep-toned voice harmo- nized well with the tenor of the rolling empty bar- rels in the cabin. His voice was, however, mellow » and he sang, with a great deal of taste, some pretty Spanish airs, of which one was an invocation to Liberty. Poor fellow ! he little knew his own was in such danger of being lost. It appears that he had been an army-paymaster, and had become a bankrupt, in consequence of his having paid, in advance, the salaries of some of the officers of his regiment. Senor Riesgo had prevailed upon him to go to Arispe, and offer himself as a surveyor to the military commandant of the province. But this was no other than a plan laid by the Commissary General to get him there ; and orders had already preceded him for his apprehension, so soon as he should make his appearance at Guaymas, as this NEW MODE OF ADMEASUREMENT. 87 method would save expense to the government, and prevent opposition on the part of the unsuspecting and cajoled defaulter. I am in possession of some of the leading facts connected with this cii’cum- stance, which would furnish the reader with a true picture of Mexican intrigue. No sooner did we arrive at the port of Guaymas, than the poor can- didate for the surveyorship was made acquainted by the officer commanding at the port, with the orders received for his apprehension, and he was accord- ingly conducted to prison, not, however, without expressing his indignation at the trick which had been played upon him. The name of this odd person is Redondo, al- though his figure does not correspond with his name. He imagined that he understood the science of sur- veying, although he had never made it his study, except during the time he remained at Mazatlan, where he took a walking measure of the coast. In his plan, which he showed me, the distances were made to correspond with a certain number of strides, the length of which he fancied that, by practice, he could ascertain ! This ingenious mode of measure- ment brings to my recollection the story of a tra- veller, who gravely assured me, that he had ascer- tained the height of those mountains in Africa, called “ mountains of the moon,” simply by tying his legs together with a cord, in such a way as to allow them to separate exactly one yard. He then walked from the highest point to the base, which gave their measurement in yards ! ! 88 PORT OP’ GUAY MAS. Senor Redondo, however, did not think it ne- cessary to introduce his long compass-legs into his chart by way of showing a scale. The direction of the coast was purely imaginary, as well as the situa- tions of islands off the port ; and as the surveyor was not gifted with the faculty of walking on the water, it may be fairly conjectured, that the sea- survey was even less accurate than that of the shore ! Previous to his embarkation, he had modestly pro- posed to the Congress of Guadalaxara to take a sur- vey of the province for 15,000 dollars ! We arrived at the port of Guaymas on the 8th February. The harbour is, beyond all question, the best in the Mexican dominions : it is surrounded by land on all sides, and protected from the winds by high hills. It is not very extensive, nor is the water above five fathoms deep abreast of the pier; but there are deeper soundings farther off. It would shelter a large number of vessels. The entrance is defended by the island of Paxaros, on which, at the proper season of the year, is found a prodigious quantity of eggs, deposited by gulls, so that its sur- face becomes completely whitened by the vestiges which they leave behind them. During the dry season, the hills which surround the harbour present a sterile appearance, truly un- pleasing to the eye, and give but a bad idea of the prosperity of the town ; while the size of the houses, the number of its inhabitants, or the want of cattle in its neighbourhood, do not tend to remove that impression. A TENDElt CAPTAIN. 89 We were kindly received in the house of the Contador of the Custom-house, Don Manuel Esca- lente, an elderly man, and, perhaps, the best of that name in Mexico. He was extremely hospitable and obliging, and I found that he was acquainted with my name, as the Government had given him orders to supply me, out of the Custom-house funds, with any money I might require,— a kindness of which I did not avail myself. I mention this circumstance merely as being of a singular kind, and as a proof of the great respect in which our Company was held in Mexico. The Commandant of Guaymas is a Captain Mier, an officer who distinguished himself in the revolu- tion. He has the features of a woman — is very good looking — with a black beard, long dark curly hair, and a straw hat, tastily adorned with a broad blue ribbon, but the crown so small, that it appeared to have been made for a little boy. It covered, how- ever, the top part of his head without incommoding his ears, and he always wore it with what sailors would call a heel to leeward. In the evening he came to the house of our host, and favoured us with some guitar music and songs. A young lady also was invited for the occasion, who, in consequence of being able, with the aid of excellent lungs, to scream with such vigour as to make the ears tingle, was thought to sing with great taste. This style of execution passes here for perfection. The captain had a tender heart, and his whole soul seemed entranced by the fair enchantress, not- 90 THE FOUNDER OF THE PORT. withstanding she was three times the size of himself, and had not half so feminine a countenance ; and moreover, although a professedly great lover of har- mony, he had the ingenuity to suit all the different songs with one accompaniment. Next day I called upon Mr. Spence, a merchant, to whom I delivered a letter of introduction from Mr. Barron, the Consul of Tepic. His face I thought looked sallow, and his body wasted, from the effects of poison, which as, he assured me, had been administered to him at Pitic. He is married to a lady of the country. He possesses a great deal of hearsay information, although, perhaps, he is by no means qualified to form an opinion of his own. He read to me his translation of the Reports of the Jesuits respecting Sonora. There is, also, residing here, a Mr. Johnston, who is likewise married to a lady of the country. The founder of Guaymas is still an inhabitant of it ; an old man, who is seldom sober when he can get tipsy. He sometimes buys a barrel of liquor to retail to the sailors of vessels who frequent the port. But, as he says, he always likes to keep the tap running ; so when there are no other customers, he becomes one himself. The Captain of the Resguarda, whose name is Salazar, is a very fine young man, and is married to a very agreeable lady, possessed of a great deal of wit, talent, and invention ; but as there are no other females in the port of equal attractions, my gallantry REPTILES. 91 yields to the necessity of passing them over in silence. Guaymas is a miserable place, that is, as far as regards the houses, which are built of mud, having flat roofs, covered with mould, so that, during a hard rain, the inmates may take a shower-bath without going out of doors. The rafters are whole palm- trees; and there is a large kind of humble-bee which perforates them with the greatest ease, so that, by degrees, these great bores , which serve the insect for a nest, so weaken the rafters, that the lodger may sometimes find a grave without going to the churchyard, the roof falling for want of due support ; which has since happened to the very house wherein we then resided. The water is brackish, and whatever fruits, vege- tables, or meats, are obtained here, come from a distance. The tuna is the only thing which flourish- es in the port, except rattle-snakes, scorpions, taran- tulas, and other reptiles. The latter insect grows to a large size, is perfectly black, with hairy legs. As my servant was taking the mules to water, he observed a snake in the long dry grass, shedding its skin. He caught hold of the tail, and the reptile slunk quietly away, leaving its slough in the hands of the man. I measured its length, which was twelve feet, and preserved it for a long time ; but it was unfortunately worn to pieces before we returned to Mexico. The only Indians in Sonora, who, since the pro- 92 NOCHE BUENA. vince was first populated by whites, have been of use in the discovery and working of mines and crea- deros de oro, as well also as in cultivating the lands and rearing cattle, are those of the Yaqui nation. For the last eight months, however, they have been in a state of rebellion ; devastating the country, and alarming the inhabitants. The cause of these hostile measures I shall hereafter explain, and shall point out the mischiefs which have ensued from infuriating a race of people naturally useful, laborious, and pacific. The second day after my arrival at Guaymas, having arranged with Mr. Spence that he should give me instant notice of the arrival of either the Wolf or the Bruja, and in the mean time attend to their wants, I hired horses, and took the route of the Preside of Pitic. The first part of the road from Guaymas is very sandy, and the weather was extremely sultry. At about the distance of three leagues from the port, there is a separation in the road ; the one division leads to the Rancho of Guaymas, and the other, which I followed, goes to Pitic. At four, P. M., I arrived at Noche Buena, which is nothing more than a lake, said, during the summer, never to contain water ; it is without house or other shelter than is afforded by the thorns growing near it. We were now nine leagues from Guaymas; and being very much fatigued, and our hired beasts no less so, we were in no humour to proceed ; but when our guide told us, that seven leagues farther CIENAGUILLA. 93 on, we should find a good house and plenty of meat, bread, and fresh butter, we reanimated ourselves with the idea of getting a good supper, and at least a place of security for our cattle, as they would have been by no means safe from night wanderers by the side of the lake. Towards dusk we observed a metallic vein in one of the hills to the right of the road ; probably it is of copper. At nine we arrived at Cienaguilla, which our fatigues made us imagine to be at a much greater distance from Noche Buena than our guide had represented to us. But the cheering light of a wood fire under a shed, and the barking of dogs, soon dissipated our anxiety, and afforded a respite to our poor jaded beasts, which, towards the latter part of the journey, when they began to smell the residence of the living, plucked up courage and proceeded at a good trot. Here we found Senor Escabosa, Administrador (pro tempore) de la Adnana de ■ Guaymas, sitting under the hovel, and already preparing for supper. He was very polite, and invited me to partake of it. I took the opportunity of delivering to him the letters of introduction, or as they are called in this country, of “ recommendation,” which I had brought from the Commissary-general, both private and offi- cial, relating to my business. These directed him to afford me every assistance, and to furnish me with funds, should I require them, from the custom- house, taking my receipt as a sufficient voucher. He expressed his readiness to be useful, and regret- ted that he was not now going to Pitic, where his 94 A DISCOVERY. family lives, that he might have shown me every attention, but requested that I would do him the favour to call upon his wife, who would be very glad to see me, and would show every possible civility to a person that brought with him such strong recommendations. Our supper was composed of eggs, meat, butter, and bread, as well as frijoles or beans. We made a hearty repast, and soon after retired to rest. My bed had already been prepared by the servant under the shed, a sort of rustic viranda, covered at the top with branches of trees, from which, however, I was glad to remove with all imaginable speed, upon making the discovery, that the fowls, from fear of the foxes, had perched themselves immedi- ately over my head. The butter which is made at this hacienda, is remarkably good, and the meat is far from being de- ficient in flavour. The water is by no means pure, as it is chiefly collected in pits during the rainy months of September, October, and sometimes No- vember, in which season the roads are frequently almost impassable, owing to the softness of the soil, and the total absence of hard materials. Next morning I bade adieu to Senor Escabosa, who took the road to Guaymas, as I did that to- wards Pitic. With considerable difficulty I arrived at Santa Cruz, a Rancho. On the road we passed an abandoned lead mine, of about the depth of four- teen feet, and a little farther on, a cow which had evidently died from thirst. The distance of Santa P1TIC. 95 Cruz from Cienaguilla is about seventeen leagues, and we found the soil exceedingly parched. I saw but one well during the journey, and that was perfectly dry. At Santa Cruz I ate tortillas made of wheat-flour. When baked crisp, they make a good substitute for bread, especially when one is hungry. February 13th. — We came to the town of Pitic about noon. Half a league short of it is another small place, called the Pueblo de los C6res, inhabited by a squalid race of Indians, who are said to indulge in constant habits of intemperance, and to have lost the fire of the warrior. In its stead they manifest the sullen stupidity peculiar to those who, feeling themselves unfitted for companionship, strive to vent their pusillanimous rage upon objects the most helpless and unoffending, such as women, children, and dogs, who appear to be the chief victims of their revenge. Pitic is a place of considerable commerce, and the chief residence of the most opulent merchants of Upper Sonora. The population has been rated at 5000 souls. The houses are of one story, small and incommodious. The streets are filled with fine sand, which, whenever there is a high wind, renders it ne- cessary to close all the doors and windows, to pre- vent the house from being literally filled with dust. We took up our lodging in an unfinished house which was fitting up as a shop, and a back yard ac- commodated our mules. The bread we found ex- cellent ; but scarcely any butter is to be had, as the 96 PITIC. cream is found to be most profitable when made up into cheese. Tea, coffee, chocolate, and white sugar, as well as china cups and saucers, are all imported from the East Indies, Lima, and the United States. This place serves, too, as a depot for effects of every description imported at Guaymas, and designed for the markets of Upper Sonora and New Mexico, receiving in return gold, silver, copper, serapes and wheat, which are respectively shipped at the port of Guaymas for Loreto, Mazatlan, San Bias, Acapulco, and China. But of this matter I shall have to speak in its proper place. To the westward of the town is a hill, composed of crystallized carbonate of lime, which in its colour and texture resembles, when broken, white sugar, and, when struck with a hammer, produces a sound somewhat similar to that of a bell, hence called “ Sierra de la Campana.” A river, which, in its course, recei ves several small tributary streams, and which, in the rainy season, is of some magnitude, but the water always of bad quality, passes through the town, formerly called Presidio, of Tepic. At this season of the year it has scarcely any water, and at no period does it reach the sea, being lost in a large lake about three or four leagues from the coast. This rivulet serves for irrigating the corn lands above the town, and the vineyards and gardens in its environs. I shall now speak of some of the inhabitants in particular. The priest is inclined to corpulency, like such of his profession as live well and lead easy lives ; and AN ITALIAN PRIEST. 97 except that he is said to speculate upon funeral, marriage, and christening fees, he is not badly spoken off. Senor Monteverde is an Italian who has long re- sided here, and whom few recognise as a native of Italy. He is married, has a fat wife, a large family, a broken organ, numbers of prints, some good pearls and native gold. He is said to be one of the richest men of the place. He was formerly engaged in the pearl fishery ; and having brought letters of introduction to him, I hoped to have re- ceived some good intelligence at his hands. He concurred in the opinion of every one else with whom I had spoken upon the subject, that the island of Tiburon presented a new field for specula- tion and research, were it possible to pacify the Indians ; and he assured me that he had seen some fine specimens of red and green coral brought from thence by them. But he considered that the trea- sures at the head of the gulf, which had never been examined, were likely to prove beyond all descrip- tion, productive. He repeated the story of the Italian priest, who was said to have embarked in this enterprise with two hundred dollars and a wooden diving-bell, (made by the bye in the gardens of Chapultepec, near Mexico,) and to have returned in the course of two months, with native gold and pearls, part of which he had bought of the Indians, to the value of 200,000 dollars. Unfortunately, this priest is prevented from telling his own story, in consequence of his having died many years ago. H 98 DELUSIONS. Man, in his rapacity for wealth, and love of in- dulging in golden dreams, invests every unknown spot with the prevailing desires of his own heart, and from a natural or acquired propensity to dwell on the marvellous, which is sure to inflame the minds of the ignorant, never speaks of an unassail- able island, or unvisited bay, coast, river or district, without representing them as the sources of incalcu- lable wealth. At Pitic, it is customary to say, that, when boys, they accompanied their fathers to ex- amine some gold-place near the island of Tiburon, but that the ferocity of the Indians rendered a per- manency there impracticable. With such persons, the desire of raising themselves into importance, by imposing upon the credulous, is a prevailing passion. We delight to dream of dangerous ad- ventures, and sable tribes guarding with poisoned missiles, regions of inexhaustible wealth, and thus become more liable to be cajoled by many ingenious and incredible stories, provided only they interest the imagination. Independent of this, the narrators of marvellous stories in this country are aware, more especially with respect to the island of Tiburon, that there are none who could contradict the state- ment. But the most singular feature in the case is, that when I returned from an expedition which I shall not now anticipate, and represented the de- lusions into which I had been led by erroneous re- presentations, the very individuals who had related to me these visions of a vivid imagination, expressed nei- 99 “ YAllNS.” ther astonishment nor disappointment at what I told them ; as if they had always treated as exaggera- tions, what they felt a singular pleasure in reporting as matters of fact ! The family of Senor Escabosa reside in the best houses, next to that of Monteverde, in Pitic. The lady is elderly, fat, full of life and spirits, but always complaining of bad health. I found her in bed, and company in the same room. Her daughter is a fine young woman, about nineteen years of age. Her eyes are ever bent on the ground, until the formality of a new acquaintance wears off, and then she is very familiar and entertaining ; her conversation, like that of her mother, is always sensible, but not so satirical. Another young lady, a niece of the family, whom I met in this house, was full of drollery, and a little given to tell “ yarns.” For example, she said she was born in Mulatos, a famous mining place, where she remembered to have seen large lumps of gold as big as a pumpkin ; and that the native miners sus- pended themselves over the perpendicular precipices, which are of enormous height, for the purpose of chipping off gold from their sides ; that upon one occasion, the rope which supported one of these peo- ple, broke ; down fell the unfortunate adventurer, and before he had reached the bottom, his head was fairly separated from his shoulders ! She was tall and thin, about the same age as the daughter of Senor Escabosa ; but she was of a melting constitu- h 2 100 A YOUNG WIDOW. tion, always “ falling in love so at least the ladies used to say, who are sometimes a little too fond of scandal in these matters ! I next became accidentally acquainted with the wife of a Mr. Gaul, an Englishman, whose destiny had led him to this country some years ago, in company with a person subsequently of some celebrity in Mexico. I was passing by the house humming an English air, at the time the lady in question hap- pened to be seated under the viranda, enjoying the cool air, and meditating on the cause of her hus- band’s absence. It appears that she had heard the air before, and she sent to inquire who I might be ? Receiving for reply, that I was a lone Englishman, she invited me to enter the house. Several other ladies were assembled in Tertulia, one of whom was fascinatingly beautiful for her age, certainly not more than seventy-five, and who, on the appearance of a stranger, was wont to put on all those melting smiles which are intended to captivate the heart. There was another damsel equally young and very lady-like in her manners and appearance ; certainly not of less antiquity. She was as sentimental as a dove, and as insinuating as the point of a needle. The only remaining female present, save and except an old Indian cook, was a young widow, whose at- tack upon all stragglers was irresistible. “ Formed to adorn a court,” she cast a ray of splendour on all who were so happy as to gaze upon her; and the ex- pression of her countenance seemed to demand that homage to which she was so amply entitled. Na- A PORTRAIT. 101 ture had lent a master’s hand in forming her elegant figure; and having exhausted her last efforts in the beauty of her features, was contented to leave the mind, enclosed in so beautiful a casket, to the mere schooling of the Graces. In manners gentle, and full of sensibility, her very look carried conquest in it ; and that index of the heart, the eye, shone with a refulgence which the hardest metal could not resist. Teeth of the most exquisite whiteness, lips that ne- ver moved but to enchant, and bosom that never heaved except to liberate a sigh, or in dole of her helpless widowhood, — but, kind reader ! let thy ima- gination fill up the rest. I am not competent to complete the portrait. Senor Oyarson it a native of Spanish Biscay, who formerly resided for a long time in Guatemala. Thin as a “ pipe stave,” with eyes always wander- ing in search of a dollar, and chin disproportionately small, he presented the perfect picture of an old fox with all its characteristic cunning. His pride con- sisted in the desire of being thought hospitable; and he entertained at his table a number of those officers of the army employed in Sonora, who perhaps would find it difficult to obtain employment anywhere else. In explanation, I must here observe, that for different offences committed in Mexico, the culprits are ba- nished to the Presidios, or frontier posts, for an indeterminate number of years ; and the officers, many of them at least, are sent there from some apprehension of their popularity which rendered their residence elsewhere obnoxious. I speak of a 102 ABUSES. matter of fact, well known in all parts of Mexico, and not from any personal dislikes, which, indeed, I never had cause to entertain. I express the general feeling, and if that be wrong, I cannot be held re- sponsible for the mistake. A traveller is sometimes obliged to draw conclusions from such sources as may be furnished by the general estimation in which any particular person, or class of the community, are held by the rest. At all events, it is known that Oyarson was in the habit of feeding many of them, and it has been publicly reported that they used to buy his goods on credit, which they afterwards re- sold at exorbitant prices to the common soldiers. And, still worse, the troops were generally obliged to receive effects instead of cash for their wages. But it would be an endless task to detail one half of the abuses practised in Sonora. To form a tolerably correct idea of the country, it will be only necessary to relate a few passing anecdotes to the reader, as is proposed in the following chapter. 103 CHAPTER VI. * I Atrocious murder. — Party spirit. — Assassins escape punish- ment. — Intentions defeated. — Leave Pitic. — Hospitality. — Letters of introduction. — A patient. — Antidotes for Hydrophobia. — Jesuits. — An injurious law. A monster. — A singular mineral vein. — The Devil’s leap. — Jasper. — Pumice and other stones. — A valley. One of the most entertaining persons I met with in Tepic, was an old man, who had travelled over a great part of the Republic, had seen a number of cui’ious things, and related them with a simplicity which rendered them extremely interesting. But I shall dismiss him for the present. Only a month or two ago, a horrid murder was perpetrated here, which has excited a great sen- sation. A native of Guatemala was the victim. It appears that he was a fine-looking fellow, of good principles and good taste. He had attracted the attention of a certain married elderly lady, by whom he was much admired ; but as the feeling was not reciprocal, the pride of the lady, who was excessively fond of admiration, was so wounded, 104 ATROCIOUS MURDER. that, in order to revenge the slight with which she had been treated, she fabricated a story highly inju- rious to the reputation of the young man, and which so exasperated the jealousy and fury of the husband, that from that moment he studied nothing but the gratification of his revenge. The fittest instrument (and whose assistance he sought,) was his own uncle ; an old, half-naked wretch, who passed his days in gambling, and his nights in theft. Knowing him to be capable of any treachery if well paid for it, he sent for him, and intimated that he expected a ser- vice at his hands, which required diligence, despatch, and secresy. On being assured that the uncle was ready to embark in the enterprise, the nephew open- ed the business, by stating what I have already de- scribed, and concluded by desiring him to name his terms, for the fulfilment of his part of the engage- ment. A thousand dollars were demanded, and readily paid. A week passed, and still the young man was living, and at the end of ten days a fresh demand was made for two thousand dollars, under pretence that the workmen , who had been employed by the uncle, had run off with their share of the money, and without effecting the business. This new demand was paid, and ended in a repetition of the old story, that the wretches had vanished with- out performing their horrid task. At length, the nephew became extremely angry with his relation, and called for the repayment of the money already advanced. To this the latter objected, and in conclu- sion swore, that for two thousand dollars more he him- ATROCIOUS MURDER. 105 self would perform the deed, should he not find others to accomplish it ! The nephew was a man of about forty years of age, and had had plenty of time, during these intervals of delay, for reflection, if not for investigation ; but every other consider- ation was absorbed by the desire of revenge ; and he resolved that this passion should be gratified, cost what it might. As soon as the uncle had received the additional sum of two thousand dollars, which, joined to what he had already obtained, amounted to five thousand, he provided himself with a large knife, and con- cealed himself in a road which he knew the young Guatemalt^co used to frequent of an evening, some- times with his friend, Oyarson, and sometimes alone. On this fatal evening the moon shone bright, and the friends therefore sallied forth to take the benefit of their usual walk ; but scarcely had they passed the villain’s lurking-place, when he softly crept from his place of concealment, and cautiously approach- ing sufficiently near for his purpose, he plunged the knife into the back of his unconscious victim, who instantly fell to the ground, exclaiming, “ I am as- sassinated and expired. Great was the terror of Oyarson, who said that he pursued the assassin as soon as he recovered from the state of agitation into which this event had thrown him, and followed till he lost sight of him among the bushes and rocks by the road-side. It was known early in the morning who had com- mitted the deed, and who had instigated it, and the cri- 106 PARTY SPIRIT. minais were seized and confined in a prison; but from this it was expected they would escape. As every event in Mexico occasions the formation of a party — one to defend and another to condemn, the inhabitants of Pitic were soon enlisted on both sides; so that not no indifferent person could have been found , even “ for a remedy ,” as they say in Sonora. Strange, however, as it may seem, the strongest party was in favour of the uncle and nephew, and it was feared that they would be forcibly released from their confinement ; and paraded in triumph through the town ! This is strange enough; but it requires careful examination to know tho- roughly the character of a Mexican. From what- ever cause it may arise, whether from apathy or self-willed obstinacy, from desire to use the power of action, and not of reflection, which independence has bestowed upon them, and of which they make a most licentious use ; certain it is, that an exami- nation into the principles of justice is no concern of the partisan. The feeling of the moment is quite sufficient for his enlistment, either on the right side or the wrong ; and the direction even of his thoughts is left to the leaders of either faction — I say faction, because that is the proper term applicable in Mexico, to what in other countries may be termed party. In Mexico, a thing may be morally right and politi- cally wrong ; and as political dogmas are, for the most part, unintelligible, by a singular perversion of good feeling they are usually adopted. This obser- vation has been more fully exemplified in some re- ASSASSINS ESCAPE PUNISHMENT. 107 cent transactions, which in due course of time I may touch upon. The faction, therefore, which was desirous of bringing the culprits to trial, being the weakest, application was made by Oyarson, who, (considering himself identified with the deceased,) the moment he had well-grounded reason to fear that a release was seriously meditated, started off to Arispe, about thirty leagues from the spot where the cruel deed had been perpetrated, to obtain a guard of soldiers for the safe custody of the prisoners. The petition was granted ; but, notwithstanding, those who know nothing of Mexico, will learn with surprise, that these atrocious offenders were released, and finally escaped the punishment which they so justly me- rited. One of my chief objects in coming to Pitic, was a visit which I meditated to the Ceres Indians, who inhabit the coast in front of the island of Tiburon, in the gulf. I hoped by this means to learn what credit I might safely attach to the accounts I had received relative to the pearl-oyster beds in the channel, which separates that island from the conti- nent. As I did not believe the reports of the fero- city of the Indians, and of their using poisoned arrows, it was my intention to buy a few articles of traffic, by which means I trusted I should be re- ceived among them as a trader, and be enabled to purchase whatever I met with, in any way corre- sponding with my instructions. It was also univer- sally believed among the inhabitants of Pitic, that 108 INTENTIONS DEFEATED. native gold existed in that island, but that the jealousy of the natives had hitherto prevented its being examined by any white person, from the fear, it was said, entertained by the Indians, of their ensuing loss of liberty. The old Spanish govern- ment acting under the same impression, made pre- text of some incursions of the Tiburones, and sent a thousand soldiers to subdue them ; but after hav- ing wasted considerable time, and lost a number of men, they were obliged to abandon the enter- prise. The war of the Yaqui Indians had assumed a formidable aspect, and at the period of which I am speaking, it was supposed they were in communi- cation with the Ceres of the coast, and of the island of Tiburon. I was therefore obliged to abandon, for the present, an object which I had considered likely to be productive of great advantages to us, and which, if achieved before the arrival of the vessels, would save time, and enable me at once to despatch them to the situations where there might be the best chances of their meeting with immediate success. After having remained four days in Pitic, I again mounted horse, conceiving that, rather than lie idle, my time might be profitably employed in examining certain mines and creaderos des oro (a term given by the Spaniards to spots where native gold is dug,) to the north, which were considered of great im- portance, and respecting which I had already made communications to the Directors of my Company. HOSPITALITY. 109 I quitted Pitic at eight, a. m. The road is to the north-east, flat and sandy ; weather extremely hot. At noon I came to a coral, an enclosure for cattle, where I partook of some cold viands which I had provided before starting in the morning ; but not having thought it necessary to bring water also, I was obliged to drink a fluid hardly deserving the name. My servant found it in a tank, accessi- ble to horses, cows, mules, &c. ; under which circum- stances it is needless to observe, that its pure qua- lities had been somewhat deteriorated. Any thing, however, that will moisten the parched mouth of a thirsty traveller, is swallowed with avidity, — provided he take the precaution to hold his nose ! After resting at this coral about an hour and a half, I proceeded on my journey, the road still flat and sandy, and the sun prodigiously hot. I reached the charming Hacienda de la Lavor at five, P. m. To the owner of this farm, Don Joaquin Astiazaran, I had letters of introduction, and he invited me to pass the night at his house, which I made no hesita- tion in doing. I found him a very agreeable com- panion, sensible in his conversation, and gentlemanly in his manners ; without ostentation, although he appeared to live in the greatest luxury, and free from those weak prejudices too common in his country- men. His grounds are remarkably well laid out and well cultivated; and I found in his library a variety of treatises on agriculture. The garden displays no less taste than care ; the trees are grafted, and the fruit is very good. His wife makes good butter and 110 LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION. cheese, and appears to manage the domestic concerns with great skill and diligence. He has a young and hopeful family ; and as they probably will be brought up with the domestic virtues of their parents, they will set an example which is sadly wanted. The table of our host was well supplied, and we ate off plate. After dinner we took coffee, &c. &c. In short, Don Joaquin has about him more the ap- pearance of an English country squire than any per- son I have seen since I quitted my native land. On the nineteenth I continued my journey, and the road soon conducted us into the bed of a river, which is crossed and re-crossed, a great many times, before arriving at San Miguel de Horcasitas, a town containing about a thousand souls, and which we reached at noon. The water in the river is very shallow, owing principally to an infinity of little channels for irrigating the lands on either side of it- In this province there are no inns, and the traveller is under the necessity of providing himself with let- ters of recommendation, to such persons in his route as may receive and lodge him during his sojourn. I did not fail to carry about with me a number of these passports to hospitality, which are, in fact, in- dispensably necessary. The letter which I brought to this place was addressed to “ Don Victores Aguilar,” from his son, my friend in Mexico, who is a student at the college there. Senor Aguilar received me with great affability and kindness. He is a little old man, with his hair cut short before, and tied behind in the old-fashioned A PATIENT. Ill pigtail style. There was a cast of pensive melan- choly in his countenance, not without an expression of benevolence. He is a native of Spain. His wife is a more portly dame, a native of Sonora, intelligent and motherly. Their manners are simple, and I have reason to think that their hospitality was ge- nuine. They have a large family of daughters, who appeared to examine me from head to foot, with the curiosity so natural to those who have seen little of foreigners; and having at length satisfied themselves that I was not altogether a savage, they entered into familiar conversation with the greatest playfulness and good humour. In the evening they played on the guitar, sang and danced, and laughed, as those laugh who know no present sorrow, and feel no ap- prehensions for the future. One of the young ladies, however, was extremely unwell, and I was obliged to look serious and stroke my beard when her symptoms were related to me, and my advice asked. I have always had some propensity towards quackery, and have even studied enough of physic to give me a general outline of the ordinary complaints to which mortals are liable, par- ticularly those of my own sex, as sailors are con- tinually thrown upon their own resources in this particular. But as I had never before been consulted by a female patient, I knew scarcely any thing of their complaints beyond a headache, an earache, a toothache, and a catalogue of imaginary infirmities to which it is sometimes the fashion to be subject. I therefore confess that I found myself, to use a 112 A PATIENT. sailor’s phrase, “ taken all aback,” and the relation of the symptoms had long ceased, before I knew how to shape a reply to the numerous questions which were put to me, such as “ does it proceed from an affection of the nerves, or from a derangement of the liver, or indigestion, or weakness, or cold, or heat ?” and catching at the last word, which was more in consonance with my own feelings at the moment, I replied, “ Oh ! certainly from heat !” If I could have retreated with credit, I certainly should have done so ; but, alas ! the vanity of being thought scientific, skilful, and I know not what be- sides, urged me, with all those little insinuating flatteries by which a man deceives himself, and then deludes others who rely upon him, to keep my post. For a time, I maintained that mysterious silence wfrich raises such suspense and anxiety in the bo- som of the nervous and timid patient, who watches every change of the magician's countenance, — the gradual approach of the finger and thumb to the chin, the compressed lips which imprison the past, the present, and the future ; the thoughtful brow, fixed eye, and vacant stare, — all of which unintel- ligible mysteries fall like oracles upon the patient’s heart. As I assumed more than professional se- verity of look, and determined fixedness of posture, I could see that her anxiety amounted almost to agony ; her colour went and came, as an expression of perplexity involuntarily came over my own fea- tures, for she stood as one upon w r hoin a judge is A PATIENT. 113 about to pass a sentence, clinging to hope, till the fatal word is pronounced. At last, however, thinking that persevering si- lence might be more productive of mischief to the patient than a simple nostrum, I began by saying, that I considered the case by no means desperate ! And having thus dissipated a multitude of fears, and awakened fresh hope, I gravely felt the pulse of this interesting young lady, examined her com- plexion, her full black eye and slender figure, with more of the tenderness which belongs to a lover than the stiff formality of a doctor, and at length I stuttered out, “ there is no danger,” though in fact there might be some as regarded myself. The fact is, as in candour I must confess, I knew no more about the complaint than Adam did of playing marbles. In these cases, however, the imagination may be considered the doctor’s “ best companion,” from whom he receives assistance, and sometimes advice ! Upon inquiring, the next morning, of my fair pa- tient, with a smile which I intended to be very gra- cious, and which met with a corresponding sym- pathy in the young lady’s pale but well-formed features, she assured me that she had passed the night comfortably, and felt herself considerably bet- ter. With a look of triumph, I then said, “ I think we have struck at the root of the complaint ; time and patience may do the rest.” All this fell upon the ears of the auditory like soft evening music ! I 114 ANTIDOTES FOR HYDROPHOBIA. Pleased with the effect which, beyond my most sanguine expectations, the medicine I ordered had produced, and having risen into something like im- portance, I strutted about like an empiric ! But suspecting that my fame would probably be ephe- meral, I announced my departure for the following morning ; and in spite of the earnest wishes of these excellent and simple-minded people, upon whom I had practised this, I trust, harmless imposition, by hoisting false colours, I carried my intention into execution, leaving, what I was satisfied could do no harm, — a few simple doses of medicine. From Don Victores 1 learned a cure for the hy- drophobia, which, in three cases, he had seen ad- ministered in the last paroxysms of that dreadful complaint. He told me that he had known several die who had not taken it, but of those to whom it was administered, not one. He is so honest a man, and has the general character for such strict vera- city, that I entertain no doubt of his having wit- nessed what he related. One of the patients was tied up to a post with strong cords, and a priest was administering the last offices of religion. At the approach of a paroxysm, the unfortunate sufferer, with infuriated looks, desired the priest to get out of the way, for that he felt a desire to bite every body he could catch hold of. An old woman who was present, said she would undertake his cure ; and although there were none who believed it pos- sible that she could effect it, yet the hope that she might do so, and the certainty of the patient’s ANTIDOTES FOR HYDROPHOBIA. 115 death if nothing were attempted, bore down all op- position, and her services were accepted. She pour- ed a powder into half a glass of water, mixed it well, and in the intervals between the paroxysms she forced the mixture down his throat. The effects were exactly such as she had predicted ; namely, that he would almost instantly lose all power over his bodily and mental faculties, and that a death- like stupor would prevail, without any symptoms of animation, for either twenty-four or forty-eight hours, according to the strength of his constitution ; that at the end of this period, the effects of the mix- ture would arouse the patient, and its violent opera- tion, as emetic and cathartic, would last about ten or fifteen minutes, after which he would be able to get upon his legs, and would feel nothing but the debility which had been produced by the combined effects of the disease and the medicine. She men- tioned also that the fluid to be discharged from the stomach would be as black as charcoal, and offensive to the smell. All this literally took place at the end of about twenty-six hours; and the patient w T as liberated from one of the most horrible and affecting deaths to which mortality is subject. She had her own way of accounting for the effects of this disease. She termed it a focal complaint attacking the mouth, which by degrees it irritates and inflames ; this ripens the virus, which is conveyed to the brain by means of the nerves, and is received also into the stomach with the saliva. The poison thus matured I 2 116 ANTIDOTES TOR HYDROPHOBIA. in the mouth and at the root of the tongue, converts the whole of the fluids of the stomach into a poison- ous bile, which, if it be not quickly removed, com- municates with the blood and shortly destroys life. Of this reasoning I shall say nothing. It is suf- ficient that the result is attainable, be the “ mo- dus operandi ,” as the doctors call it, what it may. And I think it my duty simply to make the narra- tion, that should it chance to attract the notice of some truly scientific physician, who would wish to investigate the remedy, philosophically and without prejudice, society might then hope to receive, what it has long despaired of, namely, a safe antidote for the hydrophobia. Although a knowledge of this extraordinary re- cipe would be so beneficial in a country like Sonora, where not only dogs, but wolves, foxes, lions, tigers, cats, and other animals, are so frequently attacked by it, yet there was but one of the numerous spec- tators who manifested, at the time, any curiosity to possess it. This person was a Don Victores Aguilar, a man whom I esteem not less for the qualities of his heart, than for the attentions I received from him in a long illness, under his hospitable roof. During that period, he communicated to me this medicine, the extraordinary effects of which, he had himself, upon two occasions, proved by actual experiment. I know not, however, whether the complaint in Europe be precisely the same as that in Sonora; but if it be, then the cure cannot be considered altogether so hopeless as it has hitherto been. I should like to METHOD OF CURING HYDROPHOBIA. 117 see the experiment tried, under the direction of some experienced medical man; for, although it might not succeed here, it is at least worth the trial. The herb used is, I believe, hellebore. It is called in Spanish sevadilla, and I think its botanical name is veratrum sebadilla. Theri is also another herb, called Amole, which has been found to be equally efficacious, the botanical name of which I do not know, which is used for the cure of hydrophobia, in the neighbourhood of Amoles, a town on the Rio de Buena Vista. These remedies, from all I have been able to learn, never fail of effecting a cure of that dreadful malady. But it is surprising that the knowledge of this recipe, even in Sonora, should be by no means general. The following is a translation of the receipt, written at my express request, by Don Victores Aguilar. A copy of the original, which I have in the handwriting of that individual, will be seen in the Appendix A. “ Method of curing Hydrophobia.” “ The person under the influence of this disease must be well secured, that he may do no mischief either to himself or others. “ Soak a rennet in a little more than half a tum- bler of water (for about five minutes). When this has been done, add of pulverized sevadilla as much as may be taken up by the thumb and thi’ee fingers. Mix it thoroughly, and give it to the patient (that is, force it down his throat in an interval between the paroxysms). The patient is then to be put into the 118 LEAVE SAN MIGUEL. sun if possible, (or placed near a fire,) and well Avarmed. If the first dose tranquillize him, after a short interval, no more is to be given, but if he con- tinue furious, another dose must be administered, which will infallibly quiet him. A profound sleep will succeed, which will last twenty-four or forty- eight hours, (according to the strength of the pa- tient’s constitution,) at the expiration of which time, he will be attacked with severe purging and vomit- ing, which will continue till the poison be entirely ejected. He will then be restored to his senses, will ask for food, and be perfectly cured.” There is an Indian living in Tubutama, who is known to have an antidote to the poison, injected into the wound occasioned by the bite of a mad dog, &c.; and it is therefore superior to the sevadilla, which will only cure the disease when it has been formed. Two thousand dollars have been offered to him to disclose the secret, but he has constantly refused to accede to the terms. His charge is ten dollars for each patient, and he makes a comfortable livelihood by his practice. I made diligent inquiries while I remained in Sonora, whether there were any instance known of the Indian’s antidote having failed, but I could hear of no one case where it had been unsuccessful. On the 22nd, I left San Miguel and my friends, with regret, at nine, a. m. At about four leagues on the road, we halted at a coral, where I repeated the draught of rotten water, after having eaten some cold roasted fowl ; and at six, P. m., I arrived at the THE JESUITS. 119 mission of San Jose de los Ures. The odours from the flowering shrubs, on our approach to the mission, were very delightful. The heat during the day had been extreme, and even at this late hour it was very oppressive. The Alcalde conducted me to an old convent which in its early days had given shelter to the Je- suits, by whom it was built; but it is now in a sad state of ruin, the falling roof endangering, every instant, the life of the inmate, who for the night, like myself, might chance to inhabit it. It possesses no vestige of its lost grandeur, and probably the bones of the former tenants impose in tranquillity be- neath irregular heaps of rubbish, undisturbed, except by the excavations of rats, with which the building swarms. Here, as I lay on my bed, with the fluctu- ating glimmer of the wood fire, in the corner of the large room, throwing a glare upon the crumbling walls and broken beams, my imagination conveyed me back to the days of its former greatness, when the haughty inmates, under the cloak of humility, exercised a supreme influence over the minds of other men. With superior talents, and with industry, which, in a manner, subdued Nature herself, these spiritual lords exercised a dominion so absolute, that the wretched Indian would strive to kiss the cloak, and even the impression made by the sandals of the Santo Padre. To the convent he readily devoted his strength in the cultivation of its fields, searched the mountains to supply it with game, and, in short, gave himself, his family, and all his worldly pos- 120 SUPPRESSION OF THE JESUITS. sessions to the Church, depending upon the charity of the fathers for his own subsistence ! But how are they fallen ! There is now scarcely one inhabitant alive who remembers their existence ! Their con- vents are mouldering monuments of former greatness; their lands are divided ; their voices are silent as the sepulchre in which their bodies have long reposed; and even the bell which summoned them to prayer is heard no longer ! In a single day the whole order of the Jesuits was destroyed, and their power, which threatened de- struction to Spain, and menaced Rome, vanished alike from every part of the Spanish Americas ! Here my meditations were interrupted by sleep ; and the morning found me refreshed, and glad to continue my journey. I had almost forgotten to mention, that, on the preceding evening, I paid a visit to an old priest, who in his younger days had been engaged with the sword and bible, in making tem- poral and spiritual conquests among the Indians of the Pimeria Alta. The population of Los Ures is about seven hundred. February 22nd. — Left at half-past four, a. m. Followed the course of the river, which we crossed thirty-one times before we arrived at the mill of La Concepcion, about six leagues distant, occupied by Don Manuel Bustainante. Here we took milk, and again proceeded. Just before reaching this mill, however, my mule attempted to cross a water-course, but in so doing, the bottom being of soft mud, he sunk up to his nose, and left me, as it were, the only AN INJURIOUS LAW. 121 inhabitant of an island, to get olf the best way I could. It cost no small trouble to extract him. In spite of this accident, I reached the town of Bavia- cora at four, p. m., and immediately proceeded to the house of the Cura Escabosa, the brother of the gentleman of that name whom I met at the Ciene- guilla, and the brother-in-law of Don Victores Aguilar. Seiior Escabosa is the only priest whom I have observed in the whole country without that distin- guishing badge of his profession, — a shaven crown; and he appears to be a very liberal and good sort of man. He is a deputy likewise of the State Con- gress, and my chief object in visiting him had re- ference to a privilege issued by that body to such of the natives as might choose to try their fortunes in the pearl-fishery, and which consisted of a sus- pension of the duty called Diezmos, for the period of eight years; an advantage which might have been, in no small degree, detrimental to the interests of the Pearl and Coi’al Company, as the latter was not made to participate in the benefit. Of this, Seiior Escabosa was perfectly aware ; and he told me, that the measure had been adopted principally with the view of keeping away foreigners. I spoke to him of the little benefit which Government had at any time reaped from the exertions of the individuals who annually fish, and who, by artifice, defraud the revenue of its just proportion. I succeeded, ulti- mately, in convincing him, that a respectable Com- pany, with a command of ample funds, woidd pro- 122 BABIACORA. bably fish up more pearls than all the other adven- turers put together ; in which case the Government would have to look only to one , instead of to fifty indi- viduals for the payment of the duties. He saw the matter in precisely the same light, and promised to do every thing in his power, and use his influence in the Congress in behalf of our Company. “ But,” he observed, “ if you are desirous to do away with the mischievous tendency of the privilege alluded to, it will be indispensably necessary for you to pay a visit to La Villa del Fuerte, to obtain the protection and influence of the State Governor. You will then have an opportunity of consulting the other deputies, and will learn whether it be possible to change the opinion which influenced them when the law passed. You will, at least, be able to explain to each of them your real views, and means of carrying them into effect, provided you could obtain the concurrence of the Congress.” This measure I resolved to adopt. I had, moreover, a bill upon the Government for a large sum of money, which it was now necessary should be placed in Guaymas. At present, however, I could not proceed, as the disturbed state of the country rendered travelling neither safe nor easy. The town of Babiacora is situated on an elevation, by the side of the river Sonora, having to the north- ward a tolerably extensive valley, which is cultivated. The population consists chiefly of Opata Indians, and amounts to about six hundred souls, as Senor Escabosa informed me. I saw, at this place, the famous, or rather infamous, A MONSTER. 123 Vincente Gomez, whose cruelties, during the revolu- tion, had made all Mexico tremble. He had just come from the mission of San Diego, in Upper Cali- fornia, with despatches of considerable importance from the Governor of that district, relating, it was supposed, to an idea that the missions were taking measures to declare themselves independent of Mexico, and adopt a new form of government, in their opinion more congenial to their interests. This wretch was so atrocious in his cruelty, that he spared neither sex nor age. At that period he had a thousand men under his directions, all as fero- cious as himself. He is still a half-pay Colonel in the Mexican army ! His station, before his exile, was chiefly about the Peiiou and San Martin, be- tween Puebla and Mexico. At first he made war only against the old Spaniards; but when these became scarce, he turned his hand against his own country- men, by way of keeping up his practice ! And there are living instances at Puebla which attest the success of his skill. He once took a prisoner whom he ordered to be sewed up in a wet hide, and exposed to the sun, by the heat of which it soon dried and shrunk, and the wretched victim died in an agony which cannot be described. Another he ordered to be buried in the sand up to his chin, and then directed the manoeuvres of two hundred cavalry over his head. A priest fell into his power, without knowing him, and was ex- pressing a hope that he was not a captive of Vincente Gomez. “ Why, father ?” said the latter. “ Be- 124 FATE OF A PADRE. cause he is cruel and sanguinary, and it is said that no spectacle is so grateful to him as the sight of human blood,” “ Father,” said Gomez, “ I question whether the person you mention is so fond of human blood as you say ; I will show him to you, if you will come ; and you shall judge for yourself.” The trembling friar hesitated to obey, for the name of Gomez had almost frozen the blood in his veins. But Gomez invited him forward in the most cour- teous manner ; and the friar, gradually yielding to the hope which his mild address inspired, although re- luctantly, obeyed. When they reached the spot where the banditti were assembled, he ordered a large chest to be made, which, when finished, he politely invited the padre to enter, an invitation which did not fail to awaken a suspicion in his breast of the dreadful fate which awaited him ; and using all his powers of eloquence and persuasion, he modestly observed, “ If he loved God and feared His judgments, not to suffer one of His ministers to perish by the hands of assassins, and in so cruel a manner.” But Gomez, who was neither to be softened nor ter- rified, said, “ Father, lose not time, which is so pre- cious to thine own soul ! Enter the chest, examine its interior, and see whether it is a fit machine for your conveyance.” The trembling father slowly obeyed. The cover was put on and nailed down ; and as Gomez drove in the last nail, he addressed the padre, saying, “ Father, you shall now be con- vinced that Vicente Gomez does not like to see human blood shed ;” and then left him to die from CAPTURE OF GOMEZ. 125 suffocation ! Other cruelties he practised ; but I have given sufficient instances already. When the independence of Mexico was fairly achieved, Gomez, who could not quit his old prac- tices, kept possession of the ravines in the snow- capped Istlaguatl. Although nearly the whole army of Mexico was in pursuit of him, and a large re- ward had been offered for his head, they could nei- ther get possession of his person, nor stop his depre- dations ; yet he w r as once captured ; being taken, I think, in the Puente de San Martin Tesmetuca. He was brought before the Alcalde by a large body of the inhabitants, as a suspected person, and, know- ing his danger, he suddenly threw open his manta or serape, exposing to the astonished gaze of the magistrate his arm-belt round his waist ; and in a loud voice he exclaimed, “ I am Vicente Gomez!” The effect was electrical ; that name which con- veyed terror to every bosom, when pronounced by the individual himself, failed not to paralyze the spectators ; and Gomez, having produced the effect he desired, coolly walked through the crowd, mount- ed his horse, and was presently out of sight ! He used to suffer goods to be taken to Mexico, and has been, in some cases, known to give an escort for their security. " When the goods are sold” he observed, “ I will look out for the money.” Some employes of one of the English mining com- panies fell into his hands, but he treated them with great courtesy. The property of foreigners, on its way from the coast to Mexico, was always suffered 128 BANISHMENT OF GOMEZ. to pass unmolested. It was only on the road down to the coast that any danger was to be apprehended. At length, however, finding his situation every day more critical, he wrote proposals to the General Congress, offering to deliver himself up, on condition of their sparing his life ; and, strange to say, the Congress accepted his terms, glad, I suppose, to rid the country of a monster by his own voluntary re- signation. A few days after this arrangement was made, Vicente Gomez presented himself before the deputies, some of whom, it is said, mechanically rose from their seats, as if feeling danger from his proximity ! He was banished to California, to which place he was shortly afterwards conducted from Acapulco. After his arrival at the place of his destination, he remained unoccupied till the pre- sent occasion once more called forth his exertions. The journey from San Diego to Arispe is by no means safe or easy ; and as Gomez was the only per- son who volunteered to attempt it, his services were accepted; and after having met with many diffi- culties and dangers, he arrived in safety at head- quarters, where he remained in the suite of the Commandant General, whom he afterwards accom- panied in his expeditions against the Yaquis. In the neighbourhood of Babiacora, General Figueroa is working a silver mine which formerly produced a great deal of metal; but the Commandant General has not yet found it very productive, be- sides an expensive outlay. How it may ultimately turn out is not so easily known. To the south-west, SINGULAR MINERAL VEIN. 127 and near the river, is the old gold and silver mine of Dolores, in which the padre Chirlier lost 20,000 dollars about ten years ago ; which sum of money he received from Garcia Conde, (who was at that time commandant general of the provinces of Sono- ra,) as a purchase of the interest which was held by the former, in a mine which they were jointly work- ing, and which was, at the period of the transfer, doubtfully productive, if the reader understands the expression. Padre Chirlier, whom I met at Rosario, was a great speculator in mines, although not, as some report, a very strict follower of the Gospel ; and, when forcibly removed from the province, he was said to have spent more money than the mines had yielded to him. The distance of this mine is about two miles and a half from Babiacora ; and its chief peculiarity is, having the vein at not a greater angle than about twenty-five degrees from the hori- zontal line. More to the westward is the new mine of San Antonio, likewise of gold and silver, of both of which I have specimens. Its situation is also near the river. How far it might be prudent to speculate in either of these, I am not conjuror enough to say. A new mine is generally better than an old one ; but a new mine, like a new horse, requires to be tried, before its merits can be pro- nounced upon. The surrounding hills, in every part of this neighbourhood, are full of excavations, and this circumstance shows how busy a race have been here in search after minerals : but none of them are now alive to say what were the results. 128 PICTURESQUE SCENERY. About a league below Babiacora, there is a spot near the river, where gold-dust is picked up in very small quantities, and with very great labour. When it was first discovered, sixteen years ago, it produced 5000 dollars, which exhausted it. On the 25th I quitted Babiacora, and proceeded in a north-easterly direction, over a country which, for its extent, is the most uneven I have ever tra- velled. The road is one continued ascent and de- scent. The hills, from absence of water, are ex- tremely sterile, producing little besides petaya, dwarf oak, ilex, and cypress ; — of the oak there are several species. In the valley grow trees of the acacia species, which yield what is supposed, per- haps with some probability, to be gum arabic, both white and yellow. There is also another tree, very similar in appearance, which yields a black gum, used in the manufacture of hats, and it is probably a kind of lac. The pitch tree grows to a great size ; and there is another sort of thorn, the ashes of which form the best possible alkali for making soap, of which large quantities are manufactured in this province. The appearance of the hills is truly picturesque. Tints of red, green, yellow, and brown, are seen in almost every one of them, and they give a richness of hues inconceivably imposing. The red tints fre- quently indicate the presence of native gold; and the yellow, of silver and lead ; the others are merely freaks of Nature to puzzle the brain, and delight the eye of man. EXTB AORDINAHY CHASM. 129 Having travelled about ten leagues, I came to a pool of water; and not knowing whether it would be prudent to pass it, having no guide, I determined to take up my abode for the night. The basin was beautifully clear, but its edges were encrusted with a white substance, called salitre (saltpetre) which communicates a very unpleasant taste to the water. The night air was exceedingly cool, although with very little dew. Early next morning I pursued my journey. There was no appearance of cattle grazing, over the whole mountain, probably from the want of water ; a want experienced in almost every part of Mexico. The sun this day was oppressively sultry, and the road more uneven than that of yesterday, which was quite bad enough. Nor was there any mate- rial alteration in the scenery ; and being fatigued with looking constantly on the same appearances, I was beginning to indulge in one of those reveries which approach the nearest to a dream, where the eyes are fixed on vacancy, and all the faculties ab- sorbed by a species of somnolency, the optic nerve still retaining its capacity to receive the impression made by any new object or sudden change of scene. In this torpor I was proceeding, when my attention became suddenly fixed by a deep chasm before me, surrounded by pointed precipices, of the deepest red colour, which, by the occasional action of heavy rains, had assumed a flame-like appearance. When this extraordinary spectacle first burst upon my sight, and aroused me into a consciousness, of K 130 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. being on the brink of an almost fathomless gulf, I involuntarily pulled the bridle of the mule, as, with a sensation like that produced by a horrid dream, I contemplated the scene before me. For an instant, I almost imagined myself to be on the verge of the infernal regions, the flames of which were revelling far above my head. The sensation however, although exceedingly painful, soon changed to admiration, on examining so extraordinary a chasm, which probably, from its having produced a similar impression upon some former traveller, is called ss El Salto del Diablo.” The Devil’s Leap ! and well it merits its name. The road here winds to the right for about half a mile, and then to the left, when it descends most rapidly. It is extremely steep and dangerous, and one false step of the mule would be fatal, especially when so near “ el Salto !” The traveller continues to descend, for at least three quarters of an hour, leaving the leap behind him, along the channel which conveys the water thence by a deep ravine, at the extremity of which, is a kind of sally-port between two rocks with perpendicular sides, about four yards apart. The sides of this Canada are covered with low brushwood and flowering herbs, amongst which the rattle-snake is known to wander, and sometimes, though rarely, a stray bull. The whole of this part of the journey presents so delightful a picture, that notwithstanding the dreadful heat, and total silence, in which one travels, broken only by the tread of CURIOUS STONE. 131 the mule, and the occasional rustle of snakes amongst the herbage, there is a regret felt at not being able to review the same enchanting scene over again, and bring back the sensation of surprise at first excited. This is one of the many occasions when one turns “ a longing, lingering look behind but, alas ! the same spectacle, when repeated, seldom produces the same effect upon the imagination, and the result does not always repay the trouble of making the experiment. Other mountains crowded now on the view, and the attention was never for a moment at rest ; and well did it answer the description of the poet, of “ mountain piled on mountain to the skies.” Amongst the hills there are traces of mining ; but there does not appear to be any thing of consequence, except a vein of stone called, in this country, Jasp6 (jasper), but it resembles soap-stone. I have a speci- men of it. I learned, afterwards, that there is a vein, at least three yards wide, of a soft porous substance, which is thought to be pumice-stone; but it is some- what curious, that the direction of the vein, like those of metals, is east and west. I had a specimen of it ; but being of an extremely soft texture, it was ground to pieces in my trunk by harder substances. In one of the ravines is found a very curious stone, which appears to be a cluster of small globular con- cretions ; and as they adhere to the rock by one point only, they look as though they had sprung k 2 132 BEAUTIFUL VALLEY. from it like mushrooms. Of these I have likewise some specimens, as well as of the gold of Babiacora, which is about eighteen carats. Having finally emerged from this mountain pass, I found myself in a beautiful valley, at the bottom of which flows a river. The fertility of this valley formed a striking and agreeable contrast with the sterile hills, over which I had just passed. Novelty is the great charm which enables the traveller to en- dure many things painful or difficult in their per- formance. Food and sleep are objects of but small account, when there is the slightest prospect of gra- tifying this feeling. And here I felt it to its fullest extent. Surprise too is another pleasing sensation, arising out of the attainment of similar objects; and so powerful are its effects upon the body, that fa- tigue, hunger, and thirst, yield to its magic influence. Thus, when I beheld so unexpectedly the refresh- ing and delicious green of this valley, enclosed on either side by arid and melancholy mountains, frowning upon the industrious inhabitants of the vale, with a river, which reflected the varied colours of the sky, winding along its peaceful way, and giving employment to numberless husbandmen, washerwomen and children, while the impression left by the “ devil’s leap” was still fresh on my recollection, I felt as though I were approaching an hospitable paradise, which kind nature had planted in the midst of a world of rocks and precipices, to cheer the drooping spirit of the traveller, and serve as a recompense for his perseverance. REFLECTIONS. 133 Prone as we all are to repine, when overcome by fatigue, and a thousand other vexations met with on the road, the past and all its troubles are forgotten when one unexpectedly arrives at such a peaceful scene as that which I have just described. The imagination then seems to embrace in its expansive view the image of all that is serene and delightful, and awakens within us that sensibility which at once enlarges and refines our perceptions of plea- sure, contrasted with past scenes of difficulty and danger. 134 CHAPTER VII. Arrive at Oposura. — Mines. — Danger of entering old mines. — A lair. — Black pearls. — Fables. — Technicalities. — Arrival of Company’s vessels at Guaymas. — Reasons for not at present embarking Leave Oposura. — Extraordinary aperture of the river — A cottage. — Information. — Thermometer 101°. — Pinole. — A singular priest. — A female statuary Intoxicating effects of heat. — Rebellion again breaks out. — The country in arms. — Opata valour. — A friar’s philosophy. — Tumult. — Paintings of a church. — Arrive at los Alamos. At noon, I reached the town of Oposura, and immediately proceeded to the house of the cura, Don Julian Moreno. He received me with great hospitality, and introduced me to two very amiable ladies, his married sisters. In the evening, visitors assembled, and a dance was got up. Don Julian told me that a party was going next morning, from his house, to see the mine of San Juan (to which Bautista de Sonora has lately been added), and in- vited me to join it, to which I readily agreed. Ac- cordingly, horses were ready next morning to convey us, and at seven, a. m., the cavalcade set forward. The road passes to the northward, along a flat valley, THE MAJOR-DOMO. 135 and at eight we arrived at the village of Jamaica, the population of which may be about fifty souls. One league, however, before reaching this, lies the village of H6cori, and here the population is about two hundred. These are the only villages which I have yet seen in Mexico, situated immediately by the side of a river ; the others are built at a short distance from it. At Jamaica, the cura has a farm, and cultivates the sugar-cane, which sometimes turns out well ; but, owing to the coldness of many of the nights, the whole crop is frequently destroyed. He estimates that every third year is a good one ; but this scarcely repays the expenses of the other two. His major- domo is a curiosity, who knows neither how to read or write, and yet he keeps a separate account, in a book, with each of the labourers, His method is hieroglyphic, such, for instance, as a head, a hat, a short leg, a house, &c., which all correspond, either with the employments, or with some other circum- stances, connected with the individuals indicated. By a reference to his book, the major-domo knows to whose account any page refers. His money column is nothing more than a straight horizontal line. Above it, on the top, he marks for dollars short perpendicular lines, and the fractional parts of a dollar are designated by lines of equal size under- neath ; so that his cash account resembles a coarse comb, with some of the teeth broken away. The padre’s house was built by the Jesuits ; and long after the destruction of that order, it became 136 A TIGER-HUNT. the residence of the chief of the ecclesiastical depart- ment of Upper Sonora. Here we breakfasted, and afterwards continued our route by the town of Cum- pas, three leagues farther on, (the population of which is three hundred and fifty,) Ojo de Agua, a Rancho, and La Noria, also a Rancho belonging to Don Francisco Morales, one of the state deputies, but whose usual residence, when not at Fuerte, is at Arispe, where his family lives. Having passed all these places, we continued our journey till we entered another Canada, and arrived at Nacosario, at seven, p. M. The only house here, is a small one, nearly in ruins, of which we took possession. Next morn- ing we mounted horse, and proceeded to the mine of San Pedro de Nacosario, which was said formerly to have produced great wealth. The approach to it is by a Canada of some length and intricacy. The mouth of the mine is very large, and, instead of giving any distinct idea of a mine, it appeared to be merely a horizontal excavation, which in fact it is, in the side of the mountain, of the width of about ten feet : the sides are giving way and tumbling to the bottom, which renders its examination particularly unsafe ; and no noise within, beyond a whisper, was permitted, for fear of bringing down an avalanche of stone about us. It was reported that a tiger had some months ago frequented the neighbouring mountains, and done an infinity of damage among the young colts, which it was fond of riding to death! At length a party of farmers, attended by their Opata servants, deter- A TIGER-HUNT. 137 mined to seek and destroy him. For this purpose they assembled, well armed with guns and lances, and went into the animal’s retreat, where, after wandering some hours, they found his lair, which he was then on the point of leaving, and they instantly gave chase to him. The alarmed tiger took to flight, and went in the direction of San Pedro de Nacosario, followed by men and dogs ; but now finding it im- possible to escape, he leaped into the excavation, and was never afterwards seen by our adventurers, who, by the bye, had not enough of the true spirit of huntsmen, to follow the chase into the dark recesses of the mine ; and blocking up the entrance as well as they could, they left him to perish ignobly. I had, however the curiosity to satisfy myself whether this relation were true ; for, it is said, that the mine has another exit, by which the animal might have escaped, or indeed have given shelter to a friend or two. I descended to the bottom of the excavation, which is about eight or nine feet deep, and drew my sword, followed by my servant, who carried a pair of loaded pistols. After having proceeded about a hundred yards, our noses were assailed by a very unpleasant odour, proceeding, as I conjectured, from a dead carcase. At nearly the extremity of the pit we discovered, by means of the light which entered at the other aperture, the dead body of a tiger lying on the ground. Notwithstanding the unpleasantness of the perfume, I cut off the dead animal’s tail ; a feat which, perhaps, I should not have attempted, had he been alive ! This trophy I bore away in tri- 138 valley of NACOSARIO. umph to my companions, who were waiting at the foot of the hill for my return. The vein of this mine, it is said, is of silver, al- though I saw no traces of it, but the whole of the mineral, which seemed to be very superficial, had apparently been carried off, and only the horizontal excavation was left, to show that it had ever existed. To the eastward there is another San Pedro, (a fa- vourite saint in these parts of the country,) which is of copper, containing a “ ley” of gold. This, too, has been much worked, but there is still sufficient metal left to make a copper saucepan or two ! There are other mines, near the former, of a very different quality, some being of “ metal de fuego,” and others of “ azogue.” But they are in a sad state of ruin, and I should be sorry to venture one dollar in any of them. The valley of Nacosario had once a considerable population, as is sufficiently manifested by the ruins of houses, furnaces, and a church; and from the quantity of fruit-trees, such as the orange, peach, and quince, which still flourish by the side of the rivulet, although the bones of their former owners must, ages ago, have mouldered into dust! Even their names are not recollected ! The church of Nacosario, according to report, was once splendid, and the Virgin had a great many large black pearls, (called by the Spaniards, viudas, signifying widows,) which, together with the rest of the treasures (above ground,) were transferred to Oposura, at the period of the abandonment of the Real. The pearls, which WORKING MINES. 139 I have seen, are large, although nothing extraor- dinary, but they are of a lead colour. From hence we went to the north-westward, in the direction of the mine of San Juan, where we arrived at about two P. M. The examination of this mine required a little more time, from the cele- brity which it formerly required. It is situated on the eastern side of a hill, bearing the name of the same saint, and, like that of the former San Pedro, the excavations are horizontal, with this difference, that San Juan is deeper, and runs, by compass, due north and south, while that of the San Pedro is north-east and south-west, and the latter appears to have water in it. The mine of San Juan is a fright- ful-looking chasm, open from the bottom to the top, and from its size and gaping mouth, might be well supposed to have been the sepulchre of the de- parted inhabitants of ages past. It appears that the miners had reached the bottom of the vein and that, as is the usual custom in such cases, in this country, they then worked upwards, until the whole of the mineral was extracted. Many stories are afloat respecting the disconti- nuance of the working of this mine ; the name of the original owner is involved in great mystery. The principal causes alleged for its abandonment are three : the first is said to have been an incursion made by two Indian tribes, the Apache, and the C6res, who succeeded in effectually destroying the population formed in the Peal, and in carrying off all the treasure which they found. 140 MINERAL TRADITION. The second story is, that the original owner died, and willed the mine to two nephews ; who not being able to agree as to the proportion which each was to have, resolved, after swearing mutual hatred towards each other , to try the effect of a lawsuit ! The working was in consequence suspended, and as the dispute was not decided during the lifetime of the nephews, nor prosecuted by any of their ge- nerations, none of whom are recognised in the pre- sent day, it remained a dead letter. The mine was claimed by no one, till the father of the present cura of Oposura took it into his head, that the un- finished lawsuit might not have exhausted the mine of all its wealth, and he set to work to extract what still remained. As the experiment did not turn out exactly to the doctor’s satisfaction, the mine was again abandoned, and perhaps never afterwards visited, except by wolves, till we disturbed its repose, by the sound of music and dancing near its mouth. Doctor Moreno, however, succeeded in taking from it a specimen of mineral, which, though not rich, is curious in quality, being soft ; and from the cir- cumstance of its being possible to cut it with a saw or a knife, gave rise to a report that pure silver was cut from the vein when the Real was abandoned ! The third and last authentic account is, that when the miners had come to that part where they were cutting out the pure silver with hatchets, one of them introduced a crow-bar between two lumps, which were no sooner detached, than the water they had so long confined, burst through the aperture like the GOLDEN DREAMS. 141 flowings of a rapid river ; and before the unfortu- nate miners had time to escape, the water filled all the excavations, and drowned every soul within ! Nor were the owners able to prevail upon any others, after so dreadful a catastrophe, to enter the mine, much less to work it. I leave the reader to select whichever of these problems he may think most easy of solution. In the mystery in which the history of this mine is involved, there has been great scope for imagina- tion and its golden dreams, to inflame the avarice and cupidity of both poor and wealthy ; so that adventurers, within the last fifteen years, have opened holes in almost every part of the hill, which is small and insulated. But none of these attempts appear to have been productive of any good results, although they leave proofs of the inutility of look- ing for the nest when the birds have flown ! In another corner of the hill is an excavation, which has not been much attended to, probably be- cause it appears to be chiefly of lead. I saw speci- mens of the ore tried by a miner, which was found to yield a small quantity of silver, but it does not seem to be worth much attention, or, in all proba- bility, it would not have remained so long neglected. A RICH MINE HAS ALWAYS A RICH OWNER. About half a league due east from the mine of San Juan, is that of La Discubridora, which is said to have been the first discovered in Upper Sonora, and which led to the discovery of the rest. But even for the truth of this, although generally be- 142 MYSTERIES OF MINING. lieved here, I will not be responsible. In its infancy, La Discubridora probably produced much metal, as there is a great deal of refuse about it. The vein is of considerable width (fifteen yards) ; but, even in this land of fable, little is now thought of it. In its neighbourhood is another old mine, called San Pedro, to which the name of Vigilla was added by us, from the circumstance of the whole of our party having separated, and lost their way among the mountains, which obliged us all to fast ; the cook having likewise disappeared ; and this gave cause for the distinction “ Vigilla,” indicative of our mis- fortune, and consequent fasting. The metal of this mine is “ de fuego.” It may be, judging from the appearance, about a hundred yards deep, and has water at the bottom. The haciendas, the ruins of which are scarcelv discernible, show that this mine was formerly productive ; but it has been long aban- doned ; and there are now only two old men alive, who, from tradition, know imperfectly its situation, one of whom was the guide who made our party lose their way in their search after it. About a league farther north is another mine, called San Jose, which is chiefly composed of lead, with a “ ley” of silver. This mine is of consider- able depth, and the atmosphere of the inside is very suffocating. The entrance is small, owing to the falling of rubbish, which has nearly blocked it up. It has a sort of serpentine road from the top to the bottom, and the specimens which we obtained were, in appearance, good, but they chiefly yielded lead. EXAGGERATIONS. 143 The investigation of old mines is extremely in- teresting, and it must be no less fascinating to work them. But it is a dangerous game without great knowledge, great experience, and consummate skill, to detect the miners, who, if they are not constantly watched, will work out of the vein, and it will be no small difficulty to find it again. It is conjectured that this may be one of the causes why so many miners in Mexico have failed ; and it is a current proverb, that for one miner who makes his fortune, there are ninety-nine who ruin themselves ! Where the mines, indeed, are good and productive, there is no danger of a bad result ; but the chief science in mining, in this province at least, consists in know- ing when to discontinue ; and I believe there are few people who understand this better than the Mexican practical miner, who, possessed of the col- lective experience of his predecessors, transmitted to posterity for the last three hundred years, has a power of discrimination, in this respect, given to few others. The great difficulty is to find one honest. It is extremely entertaining to listen to the accounts of some of these people, when speak- ing of a mine : “ Look !” they will say, “ look at this stone ! It contains a wonderfully rich ley ; the metal is exceedingly docile ; and if the mine were to have a new tiro-general, or a Socabon, which would cost, at the very most, two thousand dollars, it would be the grandest speculation in the world! There never was a mine which promised so much ; and it only wants a little spirit, and a few pounds of quick- 144 A LAWSUIT. A MINER. silver, to put it in bonanza ! It is well authenticated that the former owners took out what quantity of silver they pleased ; but an unfortunate lawsuit para- lized the enterprise, and ruined the Real !” I wish I could give all the spirit, together with the action and enthusiasm, of this communicative miner. A lawsuit is the most convenient thing in Mexico to account for the abandonment of a mine, especial- ly where there has been no desolating invasion of Indians, or where the late revolution could not have interrupted its working. Then comes in the suit, which (to make a bad pun) suits their purpose re- markably well, especially if they carry its date back some hundreds of years ! A Mexican miner is a man endowed with an ex- traordinary degree of what may be termed technical eloquence, which he deals out with great vehemence, and frequently without any regard to fact. He seems indeed to have his imagination for ever over- heated, and his ideas have always a golden tint, which renders them equally delusive to himself, and others who rely upon him. No class of men, how- ever, are without some honest individuals among them, but I have never yet met with more than one miner whom I have every reason to consider truly honest. About two or three years ago, a swindler fixed a large specimen of ore, taken from the rich mine of Alamos, most ingeniously in the vein of a mine not a hundred leagues distant from thence. When the deception was perfect, he took a certain foreigner to the mine, to give him ocular demon- ARRIVAL OF THE VESSELS. 145 stration of its worth. The parties descended with hammer and bolt, and a portion of the identical bit of ore, which had been stuck on to the vein, was detached, and subjected to examination. It turned out so well, that the deluded individual was deter- mined to embark in the enterprise. - When I knew him, he had already spent 10,000 dollars ; and when any new demand was made upon his purse, it went accompanied with samples of the same rich speci- men, in quantities sufficient to tantalize the new speculator, from whose pocket it did not fail to ex- tract money. Finding, however, in the course of time, that the mine was always in promise, but never in “ bonanza ,” he set on foot an inquiry, which ter- minated in a discovery of the deception practised upon him ; and being quite satisfied with the loss of his 10,000 dollars, he abandoned the enterprise; and the pretended miner, shortly after, disappeared ; nor has he since been heard of, although it was supposed that he had gone farther south. During my investigation of the mines, I received a letter from Mr. Spence, of Guaymas, announcing the arrival of the Wolf and Bruja at that port. I had also letters from the captain and supercargo, reporting the little success they had met with at Mazatlan in the newly-discovered pearl-oyster bed, the existence of which seemed to them an invention from beginning to end. By the same courier I repli- ed to these letters, desiring the captains of both the vessels to refresh their crews without one moment’s loss of time, and as soon as they should he ready for L 146 DESTINATION OF THE VESSELS. sea, I desired the supercargo to proceed in the Wolf to Loreto, where the best pearls are said always to be found : to give it a fair trial, and at the expi- ration of one month, that he should return to Guay- mas, where I would join the vessel, and make farther arrangements. The Bruja I desired might be ab- sent for the same period ; but instead of following the brig to Loreto, it was to investigate the island of Tiburon, where my chief hopes of new discoveries rested. The water there, was said to be shallow, and it would not, consequently, have been prudent to have sent the Wolf to that island. Two most important points would thus be visited, and would give a fair opportunity of estimating the success likely to attend the fishing. I had, myself, two powerful reasons for not re- turning to Guaymas, and embarking in one or other of the vessels to make a personal investigation of the pearl-beds in the gulf, at this time. At the period to which I refer, an amnesty had been declared, be- tween the Yaqui nation and General Figuroa, the Commandant-general of the province, for the pur- pose of endeavouring to bring the unhappy differ- ences which existed between the whites and the Indians, and which had been so ruinous to the former, to a conclusion. Delegates were to be sent by the Indians to state their motives for having com- menced hostilities, and the truce was to last for one month, as the secretary of General Figuroa himself wrote me word, and which letter I had received only the day before those which announced the arrival IMPOLITIC DUTIES. 147 .x the two vessels. There was now, therefore, a favourable opportunity afforded for my going to La Villa del Fuerte, for three especial purposes, which imperatively required my visiting that city ; and a failure, on my part, of visiting that seat of the State Government and Congress, might have been considered a culpable piece of neglect with regard to the interests of the Pearl and Coral Company. I had, before, occasion to allude to a decree of the State Congress, bearing date July, 1825, where- in the Deputies expressed their regrets at the aban- donment of the pearl fishery, which was so likely to be productive of emolument to the natives, if properly pursued, under the aid and protection of the Government. And considering that one of the chief obstacles to the prosecution of the enterprise was the payment of diezmos, or tenths, to the nation, as well as other duties which press hard upon those engaged in the fishery, they came to the decision of abolishing the diezmos, for the space of eight years, commencing from the date of the promulga- tion of the decree. It was calculated that the effect of this arrange- ment would be that of inducing numberless adven- turers to become fishermen, who had never previ- ously given it a thought, and at the expiration of the eight years allowed, there would be so many new discoveries made, that the province and the nation at large would become immensely enriched by the renewal of this heavy tax. In this decree, the exclusion of foreigners from a participation in r, 2 148 IMPOLITIC DUTIES. the fishery, was also contemplated, and the relin- quishment of diezmos, for the above-named period, was not made in any way to apply to them. The mischievous tendency of this decree upon the interests of our Company is so clear, that it needs no comment. The whole proceeding’, however, of the Congress was illegal, inasmuch as their powers did not, in any way, enable them to assume the preroga- tive of the General Congress, in whom, as was cur- rently supposed, was vested the right of disposing of whatever related to the maritime productions. This, however, was a question which had not yet come under discussion ; and it was upon the faith of an understanding with the Supreme Government, that I had come to Sonora, with a licence and passport from them, which enabled me to fish in whatever part of the gulf I might choose, and enter any of the ports of the republic, to sell effects for the crea- tion of funds, or to refresh the crews of our vessels, without being required to pay port and tonnage duties, more than once in the whole year. And, till the question should be decided by the General Con- gress, no duties whatsoever were to be paid, except up- on the sale of goods. And therefore, although the State could not have legally prevented my pursuing the objects of my Company, they might, through the intrigues and malicious representations of per- sons, who declared themselves our enemies, (and who had already made an attempt of this sort in Acapul- co, as appears from a letter from the supercargo, ad- dressed to me,) have raised a thousand embarrassing DIFFICULTIES TO REMOVE. 149 difficulties, which would have impeded my opera- tions, and perhaps have endangered the securities entered into with the Government at Mexico, by my coadjutor Mr. Exter, that no contraband trade should be carried on in our vessels. A new adven- turer has always to contend with these sorts of ob- stacles ; and if he hopes for success, he must oppose and overcome them, or at least disarm them of their poison, before any thing can be attempted with ad- vantage. To remove all these objections, it became my duty to visit the Governor and Congress, and en- deavour to prevail upon them to put the decree aside ; and, should I meet with success, I might then return bv way of the eight Indian villages on the river Yaqui, where I could have procured as great a number of divers as I should require ; and for which the amnesty now existing between these and the Government troops was particularly favour- able. The third and last motive which influenced my present determination was that of presenting for payment the bill upon the Government which I had purchased in Guadalaxara, — an object no less neces- sary than the accomplishment of the other matters I have related. Having thus marked out my proceedings, which could not earlier have been carried into execution, owing to the impossibility of travelling in the direc- tion of Fuerte, the road to which leads immediately through the seat of warfare, I prepared for my de= 150 BEAUTIFUL WOMEN. parture at this favourable juncture; and on the 20th of March I commenced my travels at seven, a. m. The day was sultry, and I had the pleasure of Don Julian’s company as far as Pevipa, three leagues along the valley, to the south of Oposura. The population here may be about eight hundred. One league from hence, in the same direction, is the town of Terapa. Here we were entertained by the amiable family of my friend Don Jose Tiran, at whose house I took the siesta; and resumed my march at two, P. M. The road now becomes more rugged, on quitting the valley of Oposura ; and at the distance of four leagues, we reached the town of Tepache, which is situated in a beautiful ravine, having groves of orange-trees in every part of it, and several waterfalls, which serve for turning flour- mills. Tepache has long been celebrated for the beauty of its females, and for the valour of its Opata Indians, who have considerable possessions of culti- vated lands near it. The population here cannot, I think, exceed eight hundred. Night was now ap- proaching, and being desirous of arriving at a place called “ La Junta,” where the waters of the river of Oposura enter those of the Rio Grande, and where there is a house, I pushed on, and at six entered the caxon, or narrow pass. It must be understood that this caxon is nothing more than the bed of a river ; and the junction of the Rio de Oposura with that of the Grande is effected by passing through a most extraordinary aperture in the rock, through which it gushes with great violence and a deafening noise. ROMANTIC VIEWS. 151 The effect is greatly heightened by the overhanging precipices, which form on either side an impassable barrier, and which have no other vegetation upon their uneven surfaces than the petaya, magu6y, and tuna, which cling to the rock, or insert their roots between the crevices. This situation is awfully beautiful, although the chill produced by the impetuous rushing of the water through the aperture, which is not perhaps more than sixteen or eighteen feet in circumference, threw a gloom upon my spirits, and made me anxious to quit a spot which the shades of evening were rendering still more obscure, and where the noise of the water made more terrific and impressive the surrounding objects, whose magnitude seemed every moment to increase. Lost in deep reflection, I continued some time gazing on this imposing spectacle, and in this abstracted mood almost endowed the foaming cataract with all the passions of man, till at length I turned from the scene, with a consciousness of my own situation, and of the necessity of finding, before it grew much darker, a dry spot where I might pass the night. Accordingly, I proceeded along the caxon in search of a shelter for myself and horse, and entered another ravine which I imagined would supply one. But looking at the stars, which shone beautifully bright, — those celestial guides of which the traveller so well understands the advantage, — I found that I was going back again. I therefore retraced my steps, until I reached the point of the ravine whence I had started. I then took another observation of 152 MAKING OBSERVATIONS. the silent stars, and having tolerably well determin- ed ray course, I put spurs to my mule, and. started afresh, but with no better success. This branch of the Canada led me into a ravine, narrow, rugged, and wet, and which became every moment worse. Al- though the direction was correct, I was obliged to “ ’bout ship,” and return, perplexed, and angry with myself, the mule, and the Canada, to the original place of my departure. Upon the next occasion I resolved to go on, until either a house, a dry spot, or an impassable barranca, should bring me into the nearest port. I accordingly resumed my old sta- tion, and bore up, with the north star a little on the larboard quarter of my mule. I had now taken another necessary observation, previously to making this fresh start, to ascertain which way the current was running, in order to follow its course ; for which purpose I proposed heaving the log, and getting a cast of the lead. The darkness of the night rendered it necessary to land from my mule, having first run a hawser from his bows to keep him steady in the tide- way ; and, applying my hand to the water, which I found to be very shallow, I could distinctly feel the cun’ent running to the north by east. In consequence of having made this discovery, I rounded in the hawser, and got under weigh again, shaping my course in the direction already pointed out in the log-book. I had occasion frequently to renew these observations ; and, conjecturing that wherever the water ran down, it must necessarily have an exit somewhere or other, I boxed about the GET INTO TORT. 153 compass, sometimes to starboard, and sometimes to port, until my mule began suddenly to mend his pace, and prick up his ears. This is a sure indica- tion of a resting-place of some sort. Presently afterwards, I heard the noise of a senti- nel ; who, although he did not sing out “ All’s well,” or, “ Who comes there ?” convinced me that it would be easy to run up alongside, and fire some of my great guns into him if he did not hawl his luff. I soon arrived where this most vigilant of all sentinels, a dog, was posted, close by a house, but who did not appear quite pleased at the intrusion of my ves- sel in the port. I soon succeeded in making a light, and entered the house, which appeared to be one “ to let, ready furnished,” as there were benches, a table, one plate and a half, a jar containing cold water, and a few tiger-skins hanging up over a beam placed athwart- ships of the house, near the flat roof. I concluded the master kept open house for the navy, and, with- out any ceremony, commenced, with the assistance of my servants, overhauling the lockers for some grub. A small quantity of dried beef was all I could find ; and this we wore beginning to cook, when the growl of the doj announced the com- ing of more company ; and, listening, we heard a horseman arrive at the door, who alighted and enter- ed. He appeared surprised to find the honours of his house (for he was the master,) so well supplied during his absence, and questioned us as to who we were. At first he was very surly ; but I 154 AN ECCENTRIC HOST. told my servant to bring out a bottle of liquor, and invited the angry host to take a drop, which he did ; and, laying aside his formality, was afterwards very civil. This personage was a rough fellow, occupied, as he told me, in rearing cattle, and in hunting ti- gers and wolves, which, he said, were very nume- rous here, and that they destroyed the young colts ; but he had killed so many of them, that now they fought a little shy. I could see, by the light of the cheerful blaze of the wood fire, that he had a bold face, an active frame, and a piercing eye. His active employments had given to his face the ruddy appearance of health, and nature had bestowed upon him an athletic figure. His conversation turned chiefly upon horses and cows, and the tigers and wolves which he had killed ; he knew the hour of the night by the stars, and the quality of good liquor, more, however, by strength than flavour. He never, as he told me, quits these solitudes, except on Sundays or feast- days, to hear mass at Terapa ; after which, he is ac- customed to take his liquor, and get rid of his su- perfluous cash ; and then he would return to his home in a fit state to hunt wolves. Such was the life of this man, who knew nothing of governments or of revolutions ; and had as good an idea of poli- tics, as he had of the residence of the Pope, which he thought was in the city of Mexico ! I had almost forgotten to copy a notice which I find in my journal, that at a short distance from T6rapa I met an old man, and inquired of him the INFORMATION. 155 way to “ La Junta.” His reply was, “ You must go straight forward to the left; then to the right, round a hillock ; then you will come to three roads ; take the middle one, which will bring you to two others ; you must take the right ; then cross a bed of sand where there is no road at all ; and then go up a perpendicular hill, to the left, straight forward, and you will come to the caxon, and then “ adios,” meaning, I suppose, that it was not possible to lose the road. But, however, this “ adios” was so ambi- guous a direction, that when, after numberless turns and difficulties, I reached the caxon, I could not tell which of two ravines to follow ; and, as these branched again into two others, I lost my way as has been described, and sent a hearty blessing after the old fellow who had led me astray. I slept soundly after my supper of dried meats, and at six, a.m. of the 21st. lost sight of a house which had given me a night’s comfortable shelter. The journey this day was particularly fatiguing. The road lay in the bed of the river, which we crossed and re-crossed till I was tired of counting. The Canada is very narrow, and the precipices on either side are many hundred feet high, with only the same species of cactus growing on them which I had observed the day before. The nopal too grows here, but not to any size. The bottom of the ravine was composed of sand and stones ; and as the rays of the sun were reflected from one side to the other of the mountains, and absorbed by the sand underfoot, which in its turn gave out prodigious 156 PINOLE. heat, the journey was intolerable. Thermometer 101° at eleven, a. m., in the shade. At noon I arrived at the Carrisal, which is a hut. Here I dined and slept the siesta. At two, re- mounted, and continued the journey, after having drunk a cup of pinole, which made me extremely ill. Pinole is nothing more than the grain of the Indian corn, baked and then ground, the flour of which is mixed up either with a little milk or water, and a little cinnamon and sugar, if they can be procured. The road still continues along the Canada, and fre- quently crosses the river ; but here it is considerably broader ; and the rushes which grow on its banks, together with the foliage of trees on the hills, which are considerably lower than those of yesterday’s journey, present a charming appearance. The road takes a turn out of the bed of the river at the dis- tance of six leagues, and passes over the side of a mountain, whence the winding of its bed is seen some hundred feet below. The distance is not great, and shortly afterwards falls into its old channel again. And here the direction is nearly west instead of south, which it had hitherto been, as far as San Augostin de las Cuevas, which stands upon an eminence. The road then changes to south-west, which brought us, not before dark however, to the town of Batuquo, distant from La Junta eleven leagues. I had been furnished with a letter of introduction to Padre Mayen, the cura, from his brother in Oposura, to whose house I was directed to go. Padre May6n occupies the largest house in Batuquo, having A SINGULAR PRIEST. 157 a row of columns before it. I alighted, took off my spurs, which is the etiquette, entered the house, and inquired for the padre. The room was dark, but the question was answered by a male voice, which said, “ Ave Maria ! Bendita sea Dios !” &c. “ I am the person for whom you inquire ; walk in.” I obeyed the invitation to enter, presented my letter, and a light was called for, which, however, was long in coming. The delay appeared to rouse the irascible temper of the padre, who continued pacing up and down the room, with very unmeasured steps. At length the light was placed on the table, and the padre, approaching it, examined the superscription, broke the seal, opened the letter, and after putting on his spectacles, which were two very large round lenses fastened at proper distances apart, leaving a nai’row vacancy for the introduction of the point of the nose, he began to peruse its contents. This pause afforded me an opportunity of examining the gentleman, who appeared to be quite as attentively examining my credentials as if they had been a bull from the Pope ! In height the cura could not much exceed five feet. His hair, which is auburn, hung down in graceful ringlets about his shoulders, and under the curls was seen the collar of his shirt turned back. He wore a blue cloth jacket, which in point of length might have fitted a much taller man. His “ small-clothes,” made very loose about the hip-joints, were of silk ; his stockings white, at least that part of them which occupied the intermediate space be- tween the knee-buckle, which was of silver, inlaid 158 A SINGULAR PRIEST. with (I will not say precious) stones, and the upper part of his boot. The wristbands of his shirt were furnished with long ruffles, and they concealed the greater part of his hand. In short, he looked like a courtier of some centuries ago, ready dressed to attend a levee, although it was now nearly nine o’clock at night. Having perused the letter, he released his nose from the severe nip of his spectacles, and turned a glance towards the bearer, who was still standing in anxious expectation of the great little man’s invita- tion to be seated. But alas ! I caught only the expression of a frown. Whether it was that his reverence was displeased at the looks of his visitor, or that he was absorbed in deep reflection, I know not ; but certain it is, that he took, with infinite gravity, a silk handkerchief, with a blue ground and orange- coloured flowers, from his jacket pocket. Its careful folds had never apparently been deranged. He looked at it for an instant, and then deliberately seizing two of its corners with his thumbs and fingers, which were also adorned with large emeralds set in gold, he raised his hands to a level with his eyes, and by a sudden jerk downwards, flapped the handkerchief open with a violence which made the corresponding corners snap, as they broke the silence which had hitherto reigned in the room. The action was so sudden, and the noise so unexpected, that I felt myself start with astonishment. Satisfied with the effect of his violence, he proceeded to apply the hand- kerchief to his nasal promontory, and sounded a A SINGULAR PRIEST. 159 trumpet which was echoed from every part of the lofty walls and roof of the house ; this done, he con- descended to clean his second pair of eyes, and, re- placing them quietly on his nose, began to re-peruse the letter, which it would seem he had not yet per- fectly comprehended. I now turned my attention from the personage before me, with the view of cast- ing a coup-d’ceil over the apartment. The walls were whitewashed, and at the distance of about four feet from the brick-floor was painted a large row of figures, intended by the artist to re- present angels with extended wings, but which at a little distance might easily have been mistaken for sun-flowers with their appropriate branches and leaves ! At one end of the room, which was of considerable size, there was a bookcase, containing about half a dozen folio books, the worn bindings of which bore testimony, if not to the use which had been made of them, at least to their antiquity. The opposite cor- ner was occupied by a gun and a lance, which showed that the padre had found the necessity of using tem- poral arms. A gold-headed walking-stick stood in the third corner, and in the neighbourhood of the fourth was placed a square heavy-looking table, with a cover that had once been green, but which now bore a strong resemblance to the spotted skin of a tiger. The chairs which adorned this apartment were only two in number, and sufficiently antiquated to have served the authors of the before-mentioned folios. There were, however, other seats arranged 160 A SINGULAR PRIEST. along the sides of the room ; but these were benches, before which mats were placed on the floor, to pro- tect the delicate feet of the padre’s female visitors from the cold of the plebeian bricks. There were also two wooden windows, which, being unglazed, admitted wind as well as light, and rendered the apartment both bright and airy. By this time the cura had folded up the letter, returned the silk handkerchief to his pocket, and was proceeding to take his spectacles from his nose, which, from their t: V pressure, had all this while obliged him to Lre e through his mouth, and he suffered his lips to close, as he called out lustily, “ Muchacha, (girl) bring two cups of chocolate !” And pointing to the only vacant chair, for he had already taken possession of the other, he motioned me to a seat. There was something so original about the padre, that I could with difficulty keep my eyes from him ; and moving mechanically, I took posses- sion of the offered chair. “ So, Sir,” said the cura, “ you come from Oposura, do you ?’’ “ Yes, Sir.” “ And what is your business ? Where are you going ? And where do you come from ?’’ “ My business is to superintend the pearl fishery for an English Company. I am going to Villa del Fuerte, and came from Mexico ?” “ Are you a Christian or a heretic ?” “ A Christian, after the manner of my fathers.” “ Hem !” Here followed a long pause, which A SINGULAR PRIEST. 161 was interrupted by the arrival of the chocolate, of which I was desired to partake. After having finished chocolate, and drunk a glass of the coldest water that could be procured, the padre offered me a cigar. But having brought with me some of better quality, I gave him a handful of them, which had the effect of removing from his thoughtful brow its customary severity, and of relaxing his muscles into an expression of half grin half smile. The conver- sation now began to be more familiar, and a glass or two of brandy, which I had also taken from my mule’s paniers, put the old gentleman into an ami- ably facetious temper. He talked, among other things, of the sting of scorpions and bite of the rattle- snake, from the effects of which, he assured me, before his arrival numbers had died ; but since the period of his saying the mass of San George, these reptiles had all taken their departure, frightened, as the padre believed, at the mention of a name so dreadful as that of the saint who had destroyed the fiery dragon ! In several other places too he had rendered a similar benefit with unvarying success. But when I told him that San George was the patron of my country, England, he did not cease to cross himself for full ten minutes. “ Another glass, Doctor,” said I, and another glass restored the equilibrium, which, however, was in some danger, from these frequent potations, of being finally overset. I soon afterwards left him, and, wishing him the protection of San George, retired to my bed. M 162 PALMAR1TA. This cura has been celebrated all over the country for his drunken freaks. He once undertook to confess another drunken fellow in the centre of the Plaza Grande of Oposura, which at last became so scandalous, that the magistrates were obliged to separate confessor and penitent, who proceeded from confession to blows. March 22nd. — Left at five, a. m., before the padre was stirring. Weather dreadfully hot ; route north-west for four leagues, at which distance the road turns to the northward, passing a village, the name of which, being blotted in my journal, I cannot recollect. From hence we left the river, and passed over an arid plain, on which grow only thorns and the palm. No water ; — thermometer 100°, and not a cloud. This road terminates in a Canada, where I halted by the side of a rivulet, under the imperfect shade of large palm-trees, till the heat should pass a little, and in the mean time intending to take a ‘‘ mouthful.” This spot is called Palmarita, but there is no house. At four we proceeded on to Soyopa, five leagues, having passed a deliciously cool spring of water in the Canada. Here we were lodged in an old dilapidated convent, which was built by the indefatigable Jesuits. There is living here a female statuary, who makes saints in plaster of Paris, and she really does them exceedingly well. The river of Bu6na Vista runs by the foot of the town of Soyopa ; but as it is not deep, we crossed it with ease. We found here good milk and good bread. March 23rd. — Left early, and took a guide AMOLES. 163 to show us a part of the road ; a precaution which, owing to its intricacy, we found absolutely requi- site. He was an Opata, Avent on foot with his bow and arrows, and kept up with the trot of our mules. He accompanied us about two leagues, when, having put us in the right Avay, he left us to our fate. In every part of this country, except immediately by the river’s side, the lands are extremely sterile ; and cattle, during the dry season, live entirely upon the leaves of shrubs, which give a peculiarly nasty taste to the milk, of which it is impossible to drink any quantity without its producing very unpleasant effects. At ten, arrived at Amoles, a town containing ap- parently about three hundred souls. The road lies due south ; the distance is five leagues by the banks of the Rio de Bu6na Vista, which lower down is called Rio Yaqui. Thermometer 102° in the shade ; here I slept the siesta. The heat, in this Canada is so intoxi- cating, that it is the same thing to sit down and to fall asleep ; the senses are immediately overcome, the body then continues in a state of profuse perspiration, and the sleeper rolls about from side to side, like a person in a state of inebriation : nor is he, on awaking, at all refreshed, but, on the contrary, he usually feels a severe pain in the loins, which pro- bably arises from the contortions of the body during sleep. At four, continued the journey due south, for the distance of nine leagues, which brought me at seven to an empty house by the road-side, in which I 164 TONICHE. passed the night. At about three in the morning, I was disturbed by the arrival of men, women, and children, who had flown in the greatest confusion from Amoles, near which, they said, the Yaqui In- dians had assembled in great numbers, with the in- tention of destroying the town and its inhabitants. This news was very unexpected ; I desired my ser- vant to sleep inside the house ; and after having se- cured its entrance as well as could be done, we pre- pared our arms for action. Maiich 24th. — There was now no remedy left but to go forward, as the enemy "had most unac- countably formed in our rear, and thereby cut off our retreat ; and this too at a time when every thing relating to the Indian revolution was supposed to remain in complete repose, as the amnesty, which was to last one month, and of which only a few days had expired, led me to suppose that such an event was the last which was to be apprehended. We mounted, therefore, at four, a. m. ; the heat being intolerable, roads indifferent. Reached the town of Toniche at two, distance seven leagues, in a course the same as yesterday’s. The river passes to the westward of the town. Here, in the year 1821, thirty Opata Indians resisted eight hundred regular troops for a day and a night. These In- dians having abandoned their families and planta- tions, to serve in the Mexican armies in the cause of liberty, found, on their return, their wives and chil- dren starving, and their fields overrun with weeds. They had not, during the whole period of their ser- OPATA INDIANS. 165 vice, received any wages ; and finding themselves in a state of destitution, without any means of afford- ing relief to their families, they applied to the Com- mandant-general for a small supply of money, which was not only refused them with a bad grace, but with threats also. This so exasperated the Opatas, that they immediately attempted to provoke the re- sentment of the whole nation ; but failing in this, they retired to the town of Toniche, which they surrounded with a wooden fence to resist any at- tack from cavalry, determined there to rely for suc- cour upon the warlike spirit of their tribe, and await the crisis. They were all severely wounded ; and, though they might easily have effected their escape, disdained to fly. After a resistance of twenty hours, overpowered by numbers, they were surrounded and made prisoners. It will scarcely be credited, that these brave men, immortalized by such determined valour, which, had it been exerted to nobler purpose than rebellion, might have been so beneficial to Mexico in her time of need, were cruelly shot in cold blood, with the exception of one of them, who escaped in the fol- lowing way : the Opata was desired to kneel down, which he did, looking the soldier, who was to shoot him, in the face. Three times the gun missed fire ; after which the Indian, rising from his posture, and turning to the Commandant-general, coolly remark- ed, “ It does not please God that I should be shot !” He then walked away, without any attempt having been made to detain him ! Here I also found an 166 CHARACTER OF A PADRE. uncomfortable lodging in an old convent. The build- ing was the work of the Jesuits. March 25th. — Started early, and at the dis- tance of three leagues came to Onavas, a town si- tuated to the eastward of the Rio Grande, or Rio de Buenavista ; having forded it half-way, be- tween Toneche and this place. There is here an extensive plain, which the inhabitants attempted to irrigate by means of a canal cut from the Rio Grande ; but as there is little current in the river, it was found impossible to accomplish their purpose. The name of the padre of Onavas, Toneche, Soyopa, and Moras Movas, and who resides at the former town, is Carasca, a native of Spain, and a young man. He is a great speculator in corn, and is said to be “a rogue in grain he too embarked in the speculation for watering the plain. I saw a good-looking lady and child in his house : she is called a niece. He was very conversible ; and with respect to the solitude and want of society in which the curas of this province live, he observed, “ that only old men should be appointed to the livings ; for, if young ones came, from the mere want of occu- pation, they must inevitably fall into one or other of the three great vices which allure youth from the paths of rectitude.” Perhaps he might have spoken from experience : his neighbours, at least, say no very charitable things of him ; — that, however, is a poor guide! The thermometer here was 104° in the shade, at noon ; so that the friar may be said to be seasoning WARLIKE PREPARATIONS. 167 himself ! Started again at five, p. m. ; followed the direction of the river for two leagues, where it takes a more westerly direction ; and continued our route south. Reached the village of Rio Chico, three leagues from Onavas, at dusk ; continued the course of this river, which we crossed an amazing number of times ; and at eight arrived at a hut called “ El Carrisal de los Sotos,” where I slept. March 26th. — Left at five, p. m. Bad road, and heat insufferable. At noon we came to El Encino, where we found if necessary to kill one of our poor dogs who had accompanied us from Opo- sura, as he showed symptoms of hydrophobia. Slept the siesta. Palms and dates grow by the road-side. At five passed a village ; and at half-past six ar- rived at the hacienda of Tesopaco, a journey of eighteen leagues. I found lodgings at the house of Don Carlos Lavandera, an old Spaniard, and the owner of the hacienda, as well as of the mine of San Antonio de la Huerta, about four leagues distant. Here, as in every other town, village, and hacienda along the road, great preparations were making to defend the inhabitants from any sudden attack of the Indians : drums beating, guns being cleaned, and the people employed in making ball-cartridges. They were keeping then* spirits up, “ by pouring spirits down and were singing, as boys do when they expect the unwelcome visit of a ghost in a dark room at night. The owner of the hacienda is very old; and although he was strongly advised to retire to Alamos for 168 CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE. security, and leave the defence of the farm to the su- perintendence of his son-in-law, he replied, that he was now too infirm for removal, and that any at- tempt to do so would occasion him more pain than if the Yaquis were to put him to death. The room appropriated to the use of travellers is tolerably large, but much dilapidated. In the even- ing I was invited to sup with Don Carlos and his fa- mily; and the profusion of plate upon the table show- ed, that either his mine, or his farm, or perhaps both, were worth having. It is said nevertheless, and he himself confirmed it, that the mine of San Antonio de la Huerta has been a ruinous speculation, on ac- count of the enormous sums that have been ineffec- tually laid out to drain it. The farm, however, has always been productive. March 27th. — Left at five, a. m., road good. The atmosphere appears to be many degrees cooler than in the early part of yesterday. This may be accounted for from the extensive plains over which we were now travelling, with no high mountains to obstruct the sea-breeze. Indeed, we had no sooner quitted the Canada, which we did about five o’clock yesterday afternoon, before we were sensible of a change in the temperature. I could breathe more freely, and perspiration was less pro- fuse. In the Canada, when one breathes during the day, it is like inhaling fire. March 28th. — Slept at Aguas Blancas : good road ; no house ; no water. March 29th. — Off at five, a. m., and arrived INVITATION TO A SERMON. 169 at noon, at the village of Quiridgos, where we dined. At seven reached Tepague. Slept at the house of the cura, Don Josd Feliz de Castro. This poor man is a little deranged ; but he treated me with much hospitality, and expressed himself so enchant- ed with his church, that he insisted I should hear mass in it next day. I told him I must leave at five in the morning, thinking this would relieve me from a compliance with his wishes. But he replied, he would say mass at four. There was now no escape. The population of Tepaque is about two hundred. At four, according to his threat , the cura took me into his church, which was well lighted and filled with people. And whilst my poor friend was ad- justing his dress, I had time to examine the interior structure of the edifice. It was very small, and the walls were painted in every part of them with such strange monsters, that the adorer of these paintings was in no fear of breaking the commandment, by worshipping “ the likeness of any thing, &c.” March 30th. — I left immediately after mass. Travelled by a good road to the village of Conecare, which we reached at noon. After dinner, started at three ; crossed the Rio Mayo, upon the northern bank of which the last-named village is built. At ten, r. m. arrived at Tepustetes, our animals terri- bly tired with the day’s march, eighteen leagues. This hacienda, which belongs to the alcalde of Ala- mos, is dreadfully scanty of provision. I asked if no fowls could be had for money ; “ No,” was the reply ; 170 ALAMOS. although I was at the time looking at two at roost. Finding that nothing was to be obtained by persua- sion, I drew my sword, and attacked the unconsci- ous roosters ; and, by a single blow of this magic wand, converted them into roasters ! The man and woman who were left in charge of the hacienda, finding that the fowls were really killed, made a vir- tue of necessity, and cooked them without more ceremony. But they made me pay a dollar for each. March 31st. — Started at six : the road is heavy, but there is nothing bad about it. We met numbers of people, on the road to Alamos, going to take refuge from the Yaquis, who appear to have spread over the whole country like locusts. At nine I could discern the houses of Alamos, the sight of which was agreeable enough, after so many days’ travel, and through a country so insupportably hot. Having had but few nights of undisturbed rest, and not many good meals, my pleasure at being so near this Real was very great. Our animals were dread- fully jaded. The appearance of the Real cle los Alamos is ren- dered very picturesque by groves of tall trees, high steeples, and lofty houses ; and at half-past nine, a.m. 1 had the pleasure to enter it. 171 CHAPTER VIII. Mode of irrigating lands. — Political changes ; seldom attempted by the rich. — Amusements. — A gambling anecdote. — Mineral wealth, and transactions of the Real. — Quit Alamos. — Arrive at la Villa del Fuerte. — Patriotism. — Character of the gover- nor. — Political schisms, — Orders that no person should quit the town. — Alarms. — Defeat of Colonel Guarrero. — A panic. — “ A warrior bold.” — A deputy. — Empiric. — A case. — A postman murdered. — Leave Fuerte, pass the late field of battle, and arrival at Alamos. — Confusion. — Banderas. — Wounds. — Effect of fear upon the timid. — Retribution. — Remonstrance. — A seat of learning. — A discovery for diving ; it dies with the inventor. — A conversation upon the subject. Alamos is built in a Canada; the soil sandy, and naturally very sterile ; but its proximity to the rich mine of Promontorio, belonging to the family of Al- mada, and others in the neighbourhood of La Adua- na, has raised here a population of about six thou- sand souls, and a very extensive commerce is carried on. Indeed, the appearance of the houses, each of which is adorned with a * portal,’ extending along its whole front, sufficiently indicates the opulence of its inhabitants, and the luxury in which they live. 172 MODE OF IRRIGATING LANDS. During the dry season there is no water, except what is obtained from Norias, (wells,) dug to the depth of about ten feet. The water is raised by means of a large bucket fastened to the end of a pole twelve feet long, the centre of which rests upon another fixed in the ground. At one end of the movable pole is affixed a weight, and by alter- nately raising and depressing this pole, the water is raised to a level with the ground, from whence it is conducted by different channels to the grounds re- quired to be irrigated — similarly to the mode adopt- ed for the same purpose in the East Indies. In this way a continual supply of moisture is afforded to keep alive orange trees, plantains, poplars, &c. The houses in the Plaza Grande are constructed on an uniform plan, and whitewashed; andsuch of them as are finished present an agreeable appearance. There is, too, a cleanliness in the principal streets, which is seen in few of the Mexican towns. The church is built of stone ; and although it has been many years begun, it is scarcely yet finished. Over the principal entrance are the arms of Spain, undefaced, with the motto “ Viva Fernando septimo,” in large letters. It would be curious to inquire into the cause of this show of loyalty to their late master. The probabi- lity, however, is, that it has been suffered to remain more as an ornament, than from any design to ex- press a feeling which can scarcely be supposed now to exist. It is indeed true, that political changes are seldom effected by those who have riches to lose. A wealthy man seldom possesses those inclinations POLITICAL CHANGES. 173 for mutation which form the chief ingredient in the character and disposition of the poor. The former are seldom disposed, in any country, to attempt po- litical changes, however necessary, which their in- fluence alone might possibly effect, from a fear of changing bad to worse; while the poorer, and, there- fore, more mutable part of the community, whose little all would be no great loss, conceive that every great change must necessarily be beneficial to them. How seldom do we see a man actuated in his con- duct by feelings of disinterestedness ! Self is almost always the great idol of his devotion ; and although there are on record some eminent and truly admir- able examples to the contrary, the generality of man- kind are actuated by no more noble impulse than that of their own passions and personal aggrandize- ment, which they “ Feel at each thread, and live along the line.” The staring arms of Spain, therefore, made little impression upon me. There is in the appearance and manners of the inhabitants of Alamos a degree of repulsive stiffness and formality, which can only result from a super- abundance of wealth, a general want of education, and a supercilious contempt for every one who is supposed to be poor. They attempt ail the awkward courtesies which are peculiar to the unpolished, and their bon-ton is at variance not only with good taste, but with good feeling. As there is no theatre, the only amusements are 174 AMUSEMENTS. gaming, cock-fighting, bull-baiting, and riding about the Plaza Grande, or the Alameda, (an avenue of poplar trees,) in a coach drawn by two mules. This latter occupation is resorted to particularly on the afternoon of the Sundays, or of feast-days. They go out most exquisitely dressed ; and after driving round and round the Plaza Grande, till the poor mules become both tired and giddy, they return, enter their houses while a fresh pair of mules are put to the coach, and then they go back and tire these also in the same way ! The gala dress of the ladies is rather that of the stage than the drawing-room ; but as they visit the streets almost as rarely as the aloe blossoms in England, and as there would be a want of gallantry in examining their apparel too minutely, I shall ven- ture no remarks which might in any way be construed into contempt of court. It would be hard to prejudge a people with whom I had such little means of be- coming acquainted ; and I shall therefore content myself with giving one gambling anecdote, which was told me by a person for whose veracity I cannot be answerable, as I knew him but slightly. He is however a native of the Real, and must have known perfectly well whether what he related was true, or whether he was amusing himself with my credulity. About eight months ago a Spaniard who, it would appear, was not proof against duplicity, or over- addicted to honesty, arrived at this Real, with effects entrusted to him by a countryman of his own, the value of which was estimated at 20,000 dollars. A GAMBLING ANECDOTE. 175 Soon after his arrival, having already taken a shop^ a person of no small consideration in Alamos paid him a visit, and the following conversation passed : “ At what value do you estimate your property ?’’ “ At 20,000 dollars.” “ I will give you 25,000, on condition that you set up a Monte-table ;* and if you like the bargain, the money shall this day be paid to you.” This proposal naturally excited some surprise, and the Spaniard began to reflect upon the propriety of his accepting it. Happy would it have been for him had he resisted the temptation ! But unfortunately he only saw the surplus of 5000 dollars, which he already imagined to be in his pos- session, and with this sum he fancied himself set up in business on his own account. It never en- tered into his contemplation, that he was speculat- ing with property which, upon the faith of his being an honest man, he had been entrusted with. The probability of his losing both principal and profit never entered into his head. After having lost 12,500 dollars, he began to tremble at the conse- quences of his own imprudence and bad faith ; but now, his very compunction, by a strange error of principle, rendered him more desperate ; and turning to the person who had led him into the mischief, and who was seated by his side, he said to him, “ I do not understand making up the cards, and have lost in consequence one half of my property. Trusting, therefore, to your friendship, I request you Monte — a game of chance. 176 MINERAL WEALTH. to take the pack, and perform the operation for me.” He did so ; made certain signals, which were un- derstood by his companions ; and the wretched Spa- niard, in the course of half an hour, found himself a ruined man. There is no vice which is more fasci- nating than that of gambling; while, at the same time, its indulgence is not only destructive of every moral and generous feeling, but occasions a depravity truly hateful. The successful gambler builds himself upon the ruined fortune of an associate, whose destruction he had sought with a ferocity that one would suppose could only be felt by wild beasts. And he is hated and despised by his colleagues, either for his superior success, or for his more consummate villany. But to return to the individual in question. The next morning he was made by his evening compa- nions to wear a ridiculous dress, and ride an ass through the streets, while these unfeeling wretches diverted themselves by following him with fiendish laughter ! The mine of the four Alamadas is, next to that of Cosala, the richest in Mexico. The vein is at least thirty yards wide, one half only of which is worked, and sixty thousand dollars are said to be taken from it monthly ! Other mines in La Aduana and its vicinity produce about twenty thousand dollars more, which makes the total amount of metal ex- tracted equal to eighty thousand dollars monthly! Were the Alamadas to employ more miners in Pro- montories, it is thought that double or even treble the present amount might be obtained, not only TRANSACTIONS OF THE REAL. 177 because the vein becomes every day richer in pro- portion to the depth, but also because there is every reason to believe that the whole hill is one entire mineral, as they have not yet been able to find ras- paldas ; a term given to the rock which confines the vein within certain limits, beyond which there is no metal. The quantity of quicksilver consumed here is enor- mous ; and as it is brought chiefly to the port of Guay mas by American vessels, and upon its impor- tation there is a heavy duty paid, independent of from fifty to a hundred and fifty per cent, profit upon the first cost, it will give the reader an idea of the wealth of the Real de los Alamos. Its vicinity to the Yaqui towns is extremely convenient on ac- count of the miners, all of whom, in Sonora, come from thence. Independent of this, an extensive commerce is carried on ; and upon such a basis, as to render it difficult for even a bad mine to be very un- productive ; a circumstance which at first sight would appear absurd. The port of Guaymas is about forty leagues from Alamos, and a considerable quan- tity of goods are annually imported there, by American traders, from the Sandwich islands. A great part of the effects which these vessels bring, is bought by mine proprietors in Alamos, who immediately send off the proper proportion for the payment of then- workmen, and thus a ready sale is always effected. They sell also spirits, and a variety of other articles, which bring back, with very great interest, the whole of that proportion of the various sums of money paid N 178 TRANSACTIONS OF THE REAL. to the workmen, as a part of the price of their labour, or money resulting from the produce of metal which they had stolen. By this means a large establish- ment of consumers is formed, and the enormous profits which the proprietors never fail to exact, render it difficult that they should lose much money in their mines. The Mexican German mining com- pany is formed upon the same principle. The prosperity of these mines has given great activity to trade in Alamos itself, which is situated at the distance of three leagues from them ; and, only a short time previous to the commencement of the Yaqui war, imported in the course of one week lately arrived goods to the amount of nearly 160,000 dollars ! In short. Alamos, from its great mineral wealth and extensive commerce, has become a place of the greatest importance in all Sonora. I here learned an account of the new bonanza, about forty leagues from the famous mine of Bato- pilas, in the Sierra Madre, and saw specimens of its silver, which was so pure, that thirty-five pounds of the metal, as it was extracted from the vein, pro- duced thirty-two pounds of the best silver. It is said that 60,000 dollars’ worth was taken out in one week by the discoverers of this treasure, who, not knowing how to dispose of it, and fearing robbery, dug a hole in the centre of their house, into which they deposited their wealth. A thousand stories are told about this discovery, but none are worthy of credit except that of its extraordinary value. The alarm of the inhabitants of Alamos is now LA VILLA DEL FUE11TE. 179 very great, as it is feared the Yaquis may make an attempt to possess themselves of its great wealth ; and the working of the mines is in consequence sus- pended. Preparations for defending the Real are however making in every part of the town ; but they go on with so little energy, that one might be induced to suppose that fear had debilitated both the mental and physical powers of the citizens. It now became necessary for me to have a consul- tation with the man of whom I had hired the mules which brought me here, as two of them were already defunct, and the rest were in a doleful plight. The consequence was, that I was obliged to hire others, and on the 5th of April quitted Alamos. From hence the road goes to the south-east, passing by los Tanques, Techuari, San Vincente, Vasiroa, Ta- pisuela, and las Cabras, each place being indicated by the existence of a single house. April 6th. — On this day I reached La Villa del Fuerte, situated on the south bank of the river of the same name. This city owes its present conse- quence only to its being the seat of government and congress of the state of Sonora and Sinaloa. There are also the ruins of a fort, which the Spaniards erected when they were beginning to extend their conquest in Sonora. Upon my first arrival at Fuerte, I was at a loss where to take up my residence ; and as I was parad- ing the streets, I saw a grey-headed old man stand- ing at the door of his house ; and thinking that he would give me counsel, and recommend me to a N 2 180 PATRIOTISM. comfortable place, I addressed him, and communi- cated to him my situation. He was very polite, and said he had a room quite at my service. As the weather was excessively hot, and I was glad of an opportunity of resting any where, I en- tered the room which had been offered to me and examined it. Only from the circumstances of its having four walls and a roof could it be called a room ! But, tired of wandering, and the old pro- verb of “ go farther and fare worse” coming across my mind at this moment — the more forcibly, perhaps, from the despair I felt of getting any other apart- ments in the place, (the old fellow assuring me that, owing to the arrival of such a prodigious number of families from the country, who had come to take refuge from the Indians, every house in the town was filled), — I therefore made up my mind, and gave directions for dinner ; but for this meal I was unfor- tunately too late. My host is an old Spaniard ; but he has resided in Mexico so long, as to have eradi- cated from his mind all recollection of his own coun- try, and all desire to return. I know not whether it be a want of patriotism, or from what other feeling it may arise, but, with very few exceptions, I have never met with a Spaniard who was desirous of revisiting his own country. Probably those with whom I became acquainted in Mexico, remember little of Spain ; their own immediate friends are perhaps no longer in the land of the living; and many may have married and have families ; so that to leave this country would be quitting their homes CHARACTER OF A GOVERNOR. 181 and comforts, in search of others now possibly be- yond their reach. On the other hand, there are great numbers of Spaniards among the richest in Mexico, who, upon their arrival, did not possess one dollar, but who by patience and unwearied in- dustry, aided by a kindly feeling shown them by na- tives of their own country, were enabled by degrees to realize enough to carry on some lucrative business, which they continued till success eventually crown- ed their endeavours with immense wealth. In the evening I hunted out the residence of Padre Escabosa, which I soon found. He took me to the Congress-hall, and introduced me to Don Manuel Estrella, also a deputy, and secretary of the Congress. He resides in the house ; and having an adjoining room unoccupied, he kindly invited me to become its tenant. I afterwards accompanied these individuals to the house of Don Simon Elias, the governor of the province. He resides in a small and uncomfortable building near the outskirts of the town. At his house Padre Escabosa, Don Manuel Estrella, and Senor Verdugo, usually met of an evening to play tresillo, a game of cards. The governor, Don Simon Elias, is about fifty years of age, exceedingly thin, and a little bent ; high forehead, somewhat bald, a countenance ex- pressive of great mildness and benevolence, but indi- cating little firmness of character, or extent of talent. He seems to be a most amiable man; but not altoge- ther qualified for a governor, from his great humility, indecision, and voluntary relinquishment of that 182 POLITICAL SCHISMS. discipline which belongs to the situation, and which, in such turbulent times, requires a man of decision. An undue relaxation of authority renders obedience a matter of choice ; and thus the inhabitants of the province may be unhappily subjected to all those serious consequences attendant upon an ungovernable revolution, which energy on the part of an able chief might easily avert. Unfortunately every man here acts as though he were himself the governor. The members of the congress, taking advantage of the feeble character of the political chief, suffer their passions and jealousies to derange the transactions of the congress; and, instead of attending to the affairs of the province, for which duty they receive 3000 dollars annually, occupy their time in dealing out personalities, and indulging in the bitterest invective against each other. A schism has long existed between the represen- tatives of Upper Sonora and of Sinaloa. They de- spise each other, for what reason it would be difficult to define ; but the dispute in question is, on the part of those of Sinaloa that the northern deputies wish to engross the whole management of the house ; while those of Sonora, on the contrary, say, the for- mer are so deficient in talent and integrity, that they propose, and seek to pass, laws which are in the high- est degree injurious and unjust towards Upper Sonora. The congress sits every day ; and what with the heat of the weather, and the pugnacious ejaculations of its members, the deputies are under the neces- sity of retiring from business about one o’clock, POLITICAL SCHISMS. 183 having met at ten, the whole of which time is taken up in firing off angry sarcasms at their adversaries, and in praising their own disinterested patriotism. Living as I did in an apartment of the house, I had the opportunity of witnessing some of the most ex- traordinary sessions, and of hearing the most extra- vagant rhetoric that was ever uttered by a corporate body. I have seen a deputy, by the vehemence of his language during an argument, sink exhausted into his chair ; and one of them, upon another occasion, was so excited and so exasperated at his opponent’s want of courtesy in the style of his reasoning and coherency of argument, that he dropped on the floor in a fit of apoplexy. At first the novelty of these disputes in a con- gress excited in me only risibility ; but their fre- quent repetition disgusted me. How is it possible that a state can prosper, when its representatives, instead of devoting themselves zealously to the wel- fare of their constituents, (if not from a patriotic feeling, at least from a sense of delicacy in the dis- charge of duties, for the performance of which they are paid so handsomely by the inhabitants who con- fide in their integrity,) seem to be actuated by other motives ; each suffers himself to be led away by the unpardonable indulgence of his passion, and is in- tent only on effecting the subjugation of an oppo- nent equally violent and corrupt with himself! There are however many reasons that might be pleaded in mitigation of these failings of public men, in a country where education has been so long 184 CHOICE OE REPRESENTATIVES. neglected. Men who hold such situations should un- doubtedly be possessed of an extensive knowledge of history, politics, and jurisprudence ; or how can they be supposed competent to pass laws, the excellency of which so much depends upon that enlarged know- ledge of these sciences? To make and pass a law is an easy matter ; but to make a wise law , how few, by the unassisted aid of their own genius, are qualified ! Moreover, deputies in this state are not always elected for their virtues, but for a certain boisterous eloquence, which, if analysed, will be found to have in it infinitely more sound than sense ; and as the unfortunate electors have no other criterion to judge by, and, unhappily for themselves, possess no know- ledge but what relates to horses and mules, they can only apply this science, useful in its way, to the choice of their representatives. I had intended to have been much more severe, but I believe I have said quite enough : perhaps I should not have said so much, but that I know that extracts from works relating to Mexico sometimes find their way into this remote province ; and should these observations be thought worthy of transmis- sion, I trust the honest remarks of a foreigner may have the effect of shaming the deputies, for some of whom the author has a personal regard, into a more equitable appropriation of their time, and a more just application of the talents which I know them to possess. The morning after my arrival at Fuerte, I pre- sented my bill to the governor for acceptance. He DEFEAT OF GUERRERO. 185 referred me to the treasurer, who reported upon it; and in the course of ten days it was duly honoured and paid. But, unfortunately, the second day after my arrival, the governor issued a proclamation which contained an order that no individual of any descrip- tion should quit the town. The chief object of this regulation was to prevent the flight of some of the deputies, who, since the war had become so formidable, and was approaching so near, began to manifest a desire to quit public business for a time, and retire farther southward, for the better security of their important persons. It was generally supposed that Band6ras, the Indian chief, would make an effort to possess himself of Villa del Fuerte, and by seizing the Government and Congress, dictate to them such terms of peace, as he might, under those cir- cumstances, have deemed expedient : an apprehen- sion which at once suspended the angry discussions of the Congress. A still greater degree of confusion, however, was fated to prevail, not only in Fuerte, but in the Real de los Alamos, in consequence of a victory which the Yaquis had gained over Colonel Guerrero, at San Vicente, about three leagues hence, and the same distance from the Real. Never was there a defeat more general, or attended with circumstances more critical. The wounded warriors were all day flock- ing into the town ; some with arrows sticking in dif- ferent parts of the body, others severely wounded by stones ; and all extraordinarily alarmed, conceiving that the victors were at their heels, which fortunate- 186 A PANIC. ly was not the case, as, if it had been so, Fuerte would have been taken possession of by the enemy with scarcely a show of resistance ! The consterna- tion was universal. The governor, neither by pro- mises ifor threats, would succeed in restoring order. The deputies met ; but could do no business, as every fresh noise made by crying women and children passing the door, induced them to rise from their seats to inquire whether the Indians were really entering. They huddled together like men who calmly give themselves up to be overwhelmed by dangers ; too timid to separate, and too confused to know that their safety depended upon their decision in the adoption of measures which might tranquillize the general panic, and perhaps save the town from capture, and its inhabitants from destruction. The arrival of the governor at the house, far from dispelling the panic, augmented it tenfold ; they looked upon him as the harbinger of some unknown catastrophe, which might threaten their utter ex- tinction. The doors were now closed and the Con- gress went into secret session ; what passed I know not. A general suspense pervaded the minds of all the inhabitants, who seemed to consider that the discus- sions of the deputies would only precede the removal of the Congress to Culiacan, and thus the town would be left to the mercy of the Indians. And such a mea- sure, I afterwards learned, was actually on the tapis. But a suspicion of the circumstance having entered into the comprehension of the alcalde, he hastily as- sembled a force, and posting troops in different si- SYMPTOMS OF ALARM. 187 tuations to prevent the departure of a single indivi- dual, he presented himself at the Congress, demand- ing an interview with the governor, which was granted. He then stated the steps he had taken, and explained his motives for having done so. The eyes of the heart-stricken deputies now started from their sockets, and one of the members burst into tears. The governor assured the alcalde, that he would take care the Congress should not remove whilst the danger lasted ; so long, at least, as his orders should be obeyed. After this declaration, attempts were made to put the town into a state of defence by placing barriers across the streets, col- lecting the inhabitants in the Plaza Grande, distri- buting arms, of which there was a paucity ; running balls, and making cartridges, &c. A sentinel was placed on the flat roof of the church, by way of having a more extensive view ; and a small party were also stationed beyond the houses of the Plaza, to give notice of the approach of an enemy. At night the square of the Congress-hall was throng- ed with women and children, who brought their mats for sleeping upon the ground, although few could be said to have closed their eyes till daylight returned, when kind nature was permitted “ to weigh their eyelids down.” The next morning I paid a visit to the governor, to inquire the news. He had by this time assumed an air of ease, and was writing despatches to Chi- huahua, Durango, New Mexico, and many other places, for men and arms. Some of the deputies 188 DESCRIPTION OF A TREASURER. were present, and having caught the assumed air of tranquillity of the chief, were conversing freely upon the subject of their groundless fears. Their visit was not of long duration ; and I afterwards went to call upon the treasurer. This demagogue, educated in a monastery, and in such saintly lore as related to the life, death, and miracles of every saint in the calendar, is considered inferior to none who wear crowns,— I allude to the shaved crowns of friars. His portly personage, which resembled an inflated balloon, showed that he preserved some of their good Epicurean rules. His age did not much exceed forty -five years ; he considered the governor as scarcely superior to himself in authority ; although, in point of talent, it is said he did not give him so high a rank ; since in this particular he acknow- ledged no superior. He wisely suggested the expe- diency of adopting a preconcerted signal for the guard without, in case of alarm, to resume their places in the Plaza Grande. The same signal, when made by the party without, was to be understood by the warriors within, to prepare for giving a warm reception to the enemy. This plan was accordingly adopted, and the inhabitants began to breathe once more. After I had been a short time seated under the “ portal” of the treasurer’s house, ' and other visi- tors had also arrived, the excessive heat of the morn- ing suggested to his Excellency the expediency of our eating a water-melon, by way of a cooler. The knife was already in his hand, and he had tucked 189 “ A WAKltlOR BOLD.” up the sleeve of his cotton jacket to prevent it from being soiled by the juice of the fruit, when the sig- nal-gun fired ; and the voice of the sentinel, from the top of the holy sanctuary, on the roof of which he was posted, was heard to pronounce the freezing cry of “ Los Yaquis.” It needed no dictionary to explain the meaning of this ejaculation ! The knife of the learned treasurer fell to the ground, followed by the melon, which rolled after it ; our host rushed into his house, the door of which he hastily closed after him, and each individual of his party took the road to his own home or station. I proceeded to the Congress-hall as quickly as my legs would carry me ; and as I entered the door, I was caught hold of by several fair ladies at the same moment, who in tears cried out, “ You must — you shall stay and defend us.” But hard as it might have been under other circumstances to have re- sisted such bewitching supplicants, it was now no time for yielding ; and disengaging myself as well as I could from the delicate hands which would have detained me, I passed men and women on their knees, pouring out their devout prayers to the painted saints, whose protection they were earnestly implor- ing, and reached my room, where, with the assist- ance of my servant, I wrapped round my stomach a woollen serape (a sort of blanket,) according to the custom in this country, to break the force of stone- pointed arrows ; after which, I took up my sword and pistols, and returned to the Plaza Grande, to see how affairs stood. As I drew near, I heard the 190 LUDICROUS SPECTACLE. voices of about a dozen men, who were crying out lustily for more people, but without making any at- tempt themselves to advance towards the street, which they pointed out as that by which the Indians were approaching. Five or six others were firing ^ their muskets over the tops of the houses, forgetting that the enemy could not enter there. And as I ad- vanced, I saw one poor fellow, whose musket, as he attempted to go forward in obedience to the order to advance, dropped on the ground ; he stooped and raised it up, but in one instant more it again found its gravitating level. This happened three times ; and our hero, finding the weapon too weighty for him to retain, and thinking it prudent to yield to the same gravitating influence over his own body, which his trembling knees could no longer support, laid himself quietly down by the side of his harmless gun. Others had already taken refuge in the house, where were assembled all the women who had not accompanied the friar to the church, or sought an asylum in the congress-halL Many of the warriors retired from their posts, under pretence of reloading muskets which had never been discharged ; and .duennas were seen posted at the doors of their houses, with painted saints held before them, which looked much less pallid and lifeless than their own woe-begone countenances. They doubtless hoped that the Indians would at this sight respect their houses, or perhaps they trusted that a miracle would be wrought for the safety of the possessors of such saintly objects of their devotions ! CONSEQUENCES OF A PANIC. 191 This state of things lasted for about ten minutes, when the cry of “ No hai nada,” (there is nothing,) reiterated by many voices at the same instant from the church-top, penetrated like a ministering angel’s voice to all hearts — all breathed freely — and in ano- ther moment all was tranquil. Shall we be surprised at the panic which so com- pletely pervaded the bosoms of the unpractised war- riors of Fuerte, when we recollect, that the invin- cible army of Napoleon once felt the same species of discouragement? Courage in some is natural, in others acquired ; but in comparatively few does it exist in times of great danger, without the animat- ing voice of an able and intrepid leader. Unhap- pily such a spirit was not discovered in Fuerte ; the demolition of which might have ensued for want of it. Upon such threads not unfrequentiy hangs the fate of hundreds ! But although terror no longer bewildered the imaginations of the good people of Fuerte, its conse- quences had not ceased. Two hundred chosen war- riors were missing, and it was afterwards discovered that they had hidden themselves in the hills. One of the deputies had likewise sought his safety in flight, and having met the corr6o, or postman, about half a day’s journey from the seat of government, announced to him the fate of Fuerte, and the de- struction of its inhabitants. He related that he had seen the conflagration commence in a particular house, and that in a few moments the whole town was enveloped in flames. Such peradventure might 192 A STORY. have been the impression made on his alarmed ima- gination ; for it can scarcely be conceived that he would have circulated a story of this kind originating in his own invention, when he must have been aware that its falsehood could not long be concealed. But this was not all. Three days’ journey from Fuerte, our “ live-to-fight-another-day deputy over- took a conducta (escort) of money, on its way to the government treasury, which had been sent by the Commissary-general Riesgo, from Rosario, for the payment of the troops, a great part of whom were Opata Indians, whose constancy had only been se- cured by the regular payment of their wages. Re- peating the same dreadful story to the officer who had charge of it, he as well as the postman turned their faces again to the south, and their backs upon the supposed burning capital ! The consequences of this might indeed have has- tened a catastrophe which was so likely to happen: but Providence willed it otherwise. The troops of Figueroa were so actively engaged to the northward by the hostile operations of the Yaquis, that the week’s delay in the arrival of the money was not found to have been attended with any serious con- sequences. This sudden panic may be compared to the burst- ing of a storm in summer, which clears the atmos- phere, but endangers the harvest ! Its bad results were not yet terminated. I found it impossible to quit Fuerte, chiefly in consequence of the order of the governor to remain, AN EMPIRIC. 193 which, probably, I might not have heeded, could I have procured beasts to take me to Guaymas. But this was not possible. Those which I had engaged in Alamos had long returned, according to contract, as I did not then suppose that there could be any difficulty in obtaining mules on hire when wanted. But as everybody in the town had become aware that its safety was by no means mathematically cer- tain, they kept their animals tied up in their own yards, ready for flight. There was not therefore a possibility of getting away except on foot, and it would have been madness to have attempted that mode of escape. As therefore I was obliged to wait a more favourable opportunity, I resumed my adopted trade of quack-doctor. There is no country on earth, I believe, more per- secuted than Sonora, by perambulating empirics. Every stranger who arrives, brings with him an assortment of lancets, blister-salve, emetics, narcotics, cathartics, diuretics, and the blue-pill, &c. ; and the natives are so accustomed to believe all foreigners well instructed in the “ healing art,” that they sub- mit to be killed by them, as though they were licensed manslayers, by a decree of the Congress ! And as it is not necessary that a diploma should be produced upon the demand of a magistrate, provided the tra- veller has medicine and patients enough, he may go on with his trade to the end of the chapter ! The first person I cured was the daughter of Don Manuel Estrella, a child, of cutaneous eruption. v Another was a young lady, who was so covered over o 194 AN EMPIRIC. with painful boils, that she could scarcely lie down in her bed. These two complaints I cured by only three or four doses of my “ Gotas de Salud,” a most invaluable medicine. But the most remarkable of my cures was that of the wife of the State Counsellor, (Consegero del Estado,) who, after having given birth to a child, was attacked with such severe pains as to be unable to move, or even to breathe, without the most excruciating agony. I was bathing in the river, when her husband came and called me to see her. I inquired what medical man attended the lady ; and being told that it was Gar6y, whom I knew to be an exceedingly good doctor, I refused to go. But the Counsellor would take no denial. He said that Garey had given her up, and had prepared her friends for the fatal event ; it would therefore be a satisfac- tion to her family if I would pay her, at least, a visit. Thinking there could be no harm in this, I dressed myself and followed him. I found her, as I supposed, dying. Her cheeks were pallid ; her lips had lost their colour, and she had scarcely any pulse. I was extremely affected by the sorrow of her mother and sisters; and this feeling induced me to try and blunder upon a remedy. Accordingly, I sent out for a leaf of the Zavila, and putting a portion of it into spirits to steep, I allowed it to remain two hours, at the end of which time it had assumed a colour very like that of a pale rose. Of this tincture I gave her a table- spoonful, which, producing alleviation, I repeated two hours after ; and in the evening I left directions, that should the pain return during the night, her ( AN EMPIRIC. 195 nurses must give her another spoonful. When I called the next morning, I found her considerably better. A fixed pain, however, remained in the right side, which the Zavila failed to remove ; she had also lost the use of her right arm and leg, and her mouth was slightly drawn on that side. Having exhausted my ingenuity, I was about to abandon my patient to her fate, when I recollected my wonderful “ got as.” I gave her a few, not knowing what the consequences might be, by way of experiment ! I returned at the expiration of about an hour and a half, and, to my infinite satisfaction, I found not only that the pain had entirely subsided, but also that she had perfectly recovered the use of her limbs ! They all thought me a wonderfully clever doctor, and I believe I my- self nearly fell into the same error. Without, how- ever, puffing myself off, I felt an indescribable plea- sure at having saved the life of this poor woman, and, what was of the next greatest importance to her, accidentally discovered a remedy for the recovery of the use of her limbs, the loss of which was as com- plete on one side, as though she had been seized with paralysis. Having met with such good success in this case, I was called in upon many occasions ; and when the alarm occasioned by the supposed approach of the Yaquis produced a very serious effect upon several young ladies, at the time in a delicate state , I was considered quite competent to prescribe for them, which I did without losing my newly acquired reputation. o 2 196 ARRIVAL AT ALAMOS. It was now the middle of June, and I had received no account from Guaymas, owing to the roads being obstructed by the enemy, as appears from a letter which I afterwards overtook within two days’ jour- ney of the port, in which Mr. Spence, my correspon- dent, says, “ I have not heard from you, probably from the same cause as your not having received any letters from me, namely the Yaqui revolution. It is only a short time ago that I despatched a correo, who was murdered on the road, and I have not since been able to get another to venture.” My anxiety to de- part was very great, and so indeed was that of many others, as the revolution had assumed a most formi- dable aspect; and at length, by means of heavy bribes, I procured three donkies , which carried me safely over the spot, at San Vicente, where Colonel Guerrero had been defeated, and where several dead bodies were still lying in “ mute, silent horror,’’ uninterred, and in a dreadful state of putridity ; and I arrived once more in Alamos, without accident, two days after my departure from Fuerte. Here I learnt the particulars of the alarm which the inhabitants had felt after the defeat of Colonel Guerrero, who had volunteered to go out and drive away the Yaquis. But the confusion of the natives was at its height on the Sunday following the de- feat, when all the good people of Alamos were at their devotions in church, while the priest was say- ing mass ; and having come to that part of the service where he has to turn round and ejaculate to the congregation, “ dominus vobiscum,” his eyes CONFUSION. 197 suddenly rested upon the erect figure of two armed Indians standing at the door. He appeared to be so much overcome by the apparition, that his eyes be- came fixed, and his countenance assumed a death- like paleness, which induced others to follow the direction of his eyes ; and no sooner did they catch a glimpse of these two unbidden pilgrims, than they remained transfixed to the spot, like an animal charmed by the fascinations of the crocodile. The ladies, who are always more devout than the men, finding the service suddenly discontinue without any apparent cause, turned their bright eyes in the di- rection of the door ; and as soon as they, too, saw this dreadful vision, they uttered an involuntary scream — as if by mutual consent — so terrific and appalling, that, when the roof joined in the chorus with a formidable echo, it was converted into a most terrific yell, and this was sufficient to complete the universal consternation ! The bosoms of the pious heaved with indescribable alarms — the fears of the captain of militia were so great, as to deprive him of the necessary quantum of voice to desire the drum- mer to beat to arms ; and the hands of the unfortu- nate drummer refused to give that motion to his drumsticks, which might have sent the astonished male part of the congregation to seek their arms. Soon were the streets filled by women and children, with their faces bathed in tears, who, with frantic actions, had torn their hair from its gay imprison- ment within the teeth of ornamental combs ; men running in all directions, they knew not whither or 198 BANDERAS. wherefore ; which altogether created a confusion so alarming, that it might have been thought some sudden madness had seized the whole population, and that the most furious paroxysm was now upon them. At length the “ spirit-stirring drum” did beat, and swords and muskets were in rapid motion ; but no one could ascertain where the enemy was to be seen ! The two Indians were seized, and taken before the alcalde ; and when questioned, replied that they were the bearers of despatches from General Fi- gueroa, who had arrived in Buena Vista ; and as they were told, when they entered the city, that his honour was hearing mass, they had proceeded straightway to the church in search of him, which gave rise to the alarming confusion that reigned for at least an hour in the Real de los Alamos, and which thus happily terminated without bloodshed. This explanation soon spread through a town where every ear was anxiously held forward to hear it, and tranquillity was soon afterwards restored. The activity of the Yaquis had now become so great, and the prudent measures of their great chief, Banderas, were so well managed, as to banish the idea of pursuit on the part of the troops of General Figueroa, who was himself at the head of all his forces. News had just arrived, when I entered the Real, giving an account of the capture of Santa Cruz, the command of which had been previously given to the legitimate chief of the nation, Cien- WOUNDS. 199 fu6gos, who, since his authority had been usurped by Banderas, thought that it became him to take part with the Mexicans. His force, which was composed partly of his countrymen, and partly of Pima Indians, was sufficient to have defended the town against the Yaquis ; but such was the talent of Banderas, and so great the fear which his pre- sence inspired, that the instant the enemy made his appearance before the place, a general revolt of Cien- fu^go’s party took place, and he himself with diffi- culty escaped imprisonment from his own men, and, by vaulting on a horse ready saddled, succeeded in effecting his escape, having in his flight received two arrow-wounds, which did him but slight injury. He was himself the first bearer of the news to Ala- mos. His account was not credited ; and, consider- ing him to be a disaffected person and an impostor, in consequence of the out-of -fashion shape of his wounds, which were square , and not triangular, they put him into prison ; and had it not been for the timely interference of the governor, they would have passed sentence of death upon him, and have pro- bably followed it up by his speedy execution. Fear has generally the effect of rendering the timid cruel ; and the whites in Alamos had adopted the short- sighted policy of executing all prisoners who might chance to fall into their hands, under the mistaken idea that their death would diminish the number of enemies : forgetting that these executions would probably awaken a feeling of retribution in the 200 RETRIBUTION. Indians ; whereby the usual miseries of war would be invested with tenfold horrors. Now this actually occurred. Some Yaquis had been made prisoners, and, after having been tried by court-martial, sen- tence of death was passed upon them as rebels ; and immediately afterwards, having been invited to re- ceive the consolations of a Spanish priest, which they refused, they were executed. This fact coming soon after to the knowledge of Banderas, who had likewise taken captive several Spaniards, among whom was a priest, he held a court-martial upon them, and they were condemned for being agents of the tyrannical usurpers of the authority of Monte- zuma. The priest w r as ordered to administer ghostly comfort to the condemned prisoners, and the next morning they were executed with the same formali- ties which had attended the executions of the Yaquis condemned in the Real de los Alamos. No sooner had this act of retribution been ac- complished, than Banderas wrote to General Fi- gueroa, giving him an account of the transaction, and recommending him for the future to avoid a re- petition of such barbarous cruelty, which, he said, could answer no good purpose, but, on the contrary, would have the effect of inflaming the passions of their respective followers, and add greatly to the sufferings of innocent victims. At the same time he observed, that he had merely followed an example set by those who called themselves Christians and civilized people, to convince him that he was not A SEAT OF LEARNING. 201 to be intimidated ; nor indeed had lie been guilty of more severity than was absolutely necessary to secure the lives of such of his people as might in future be- come prisoners. Moreover, that the repetition of such a proceeding should never occur, provided the Commandant-general would act upon liberal and enlightened principles of reason and humanity. Such an address, so replete with just feelings and wise policy, will be read with no small interest, if it be recollected that it proceeded from an uneducated Indian. Indeed B^nddras is a man of extraordinary talent and character ; nor is it easy to foresee how his career will terminate, or where the revolution, which he so ably manages, will stop. Upon my first entrance into Alamos, I was lodg- ed, by order of the alcalde, under the roof of the only “ seat of learning ” in the Real ; a school, con- ducted upon the Lancasterian system ; and the conti- nued hum of the boys would have been dreadfully annoying to me, if it had not been associated with the early period of my life, when I too was as idle as any of these, my master as old a veteran, and my lessons as badly taught, and as ill learn- ed ! “ Would,” thought I, “ that I could trans- port myself back to my school-boy age, when sorrow and the hours of daily tuition terminate together, and when the intervals of relaxation were filled up with games at marbles, cricket, hocky, and prisoner’s bars ! Would that I could know no other misfor- tune than the loss of an apple or an orange which 202 A DISCOVERY FOR DIVING; had been purloined by a bigger boy !” And as I here saw the progress of the juvenile studies, it brought forcibly to my recollection my old school- master, at the Gosport Naval Academy, Dr. Burney, seated on his elevated bench, like the monarch of a tribe dictating absolute laws to his obedient subjects. Furious in his resentments, and a liberal patron of learning, he acquired an ascendancy over the minds of his little nation which made him considered by some the greatest and most learned of mankind, and by others the most unjust and cruel tyrant that ever reigned ! In this my second visit I found apartments in the house of Don Antonio Gil, an old Spaniard, who also entertained some of the officers of General Fi- gueroa. I remember, upon one occasion, that as we sat after dinner discussing the merits of the Yaqui war, our host introduced the subject of diving for pearls, an occupation carried on solely by the tribe now under arms. He was speaking of an extraor- dinary man, whom he had formerly known, the son of an Englishman, and his mother a Yaqui, who had invented a way of descending into the ocean, where he could remain for a length of time, hear a conversation above water , and rise to the surface, when called, without the aid of a diving-bell, but with merely a leathern bag containing certain herbs, which furnished an atmosphere for respiration, enclosing his head, and tied under the arms ; he had likewise stone weights to keep him at the bottom. DIES WITH THE INVENTOR. 203 With this apparatus he could walk about the bottom of the sea, without the slightest inconvenience, and with the perfect use of his mental and physical faculties. He stated that the fact was well known, and had been attested by certificates from the Jesuits, who witnessed the extraordinary operation of the inven- tion, and who had offered him 2000 dollars to dis- close it. His reply, whenever a proposal of this sort was made to him was, “ If I disclose this secret to you, I know that you will yourselves publish it to the King of Spain, and reap a profit and reward for the invention, which you will assert is your own. But if you will send me to Spain, and present me to his Majesty, I will then make the disclosure to him in the presence of his whole court, and I shall be sure that the king will acknowledge me as the author of the discovery, that will recompense me accordingly.” Don Antonio added that he was a sad drunken fel- low ; and having ultimately died, the secret de- scended with him into the grave. I give the storv as it was delivered to me, and leave the reader to attach whatever degree of credit he may choose to the narration. One of the officers who heard this story observed, assuming a military air, that he would have brought him to a court-martial before his demise, even though it should have been upon his death-bed ; and, if he refused to discover the in- vention, would have instantly sentenced him to be hanged, drawn, and quartered. This would, at least, have been a truly military way of proceeding 204 MILITARY PUNISHMENT. in the business, as well as a curious mode of cajoling nature out of the mode of dissolution which she was at that moment preparing for the obstinate and ingenious inventor, who, although of English de- scent, had probably never read the story of “ the cave of Rosicrucius,” nor heard of the excellent moral which it conveys in “ The Spectator.” 205 CHAPTER IX. Provisions. — Society. — Quit Alamos. — A mineral spring. — A real friend in distress. — A nostrum.— Arrive at Buenavista. — Controversy. — A guide. — Privations. — A dangerous Pass. — Enemy in view. — Difficulties Cause of dreams. — Cactus. — In danger of starvation — Intricacies. — Consola- tion. — Arrive at Guaymas. — Alarms.— Petitions. — A vessel arrives. — Embark in the Wolf and proceed to sea. The price of Indian corn at Alamos, in conse- quence of the scarcity of that grain, occasioned (through the vigilance of the Yaquis) by the dif- ficulties of throwing supplies into the place, had risen to nine or ten shillings a bushel ! Meat, vege- tables, and bread, were dear in proportion ; and a famine, in addition to other evils affecting it, was apprehended by the inhabitants. Dui'ing my stay in the Real, I became acquainted with a family in which were several young ladies who talked, sang, danced, played on the guitai’, and gave me an agreeable idea of female society in this place ; so much so, as to induce me to believe that A MINERAL SPRING. 20 6 the fears of the men were far greater than those felt by the “ weaker sex,” who are certainly in Alamos the stronger-minded of the two. The difficulty of procuring mules detained me four days ; but having at length prevailed upon Don An- tonio Gil to furnish as many as I required, I quitted this famous Real without wishing ever to return to it. It was now the middle of July, and the heat of the weather was scarcely supportable. My road led by Tepustetes, and Piddras Vdrdes ; at the latter of which places, indicated by no habitation, but only extinguished wood-ashes, I slept. Between these two places I observed a stream of exceedingly clear water ; and suffering greatly at the time from heat, I alighted from my mule, and took off its bridle, imagining that the beast was no less disposed to drink than myself. But the animal would not so much as taste it. However, as I did not stand up- on such ceremonies, I knelt down and applied my lips to the running stream ; but soon withdrew my head from its surface, having nearly scalded my lips ! It is a very hot spring of mineral water, and is in consequence called aqua caliente, as my guide, who was at this moment about a mile in the rear, told me when he came up. It rises from a bed of rough stones, over whose surface it trickles, and is as clear and colourless as the purest stream. The village of Tepague I found deserted, as if it had been visited by a plague. The inhabitants had all fled to Alamos for refuge from the Yaquis. From hence I passed on to the hacienda de los Cddros, A REAL FRIEND IN DISTRESS. 207 near Tesopaco, where a heavy rain obliged me to take shelter. I had hitherto been accompanied by a dog who had followed me in all my travels in the interior ; but, in consequence of the dreadful heat of the weather, we were, before arriving at los C6dros, fated to part, perhaps for ever. Poor fellow ! he had often watched by my pillow, and I felt for him all the attachment which a man so sensibly feels for a vigilant attendant and a faithful friend. Twice on the road I had rested for him to take shelter under the imperfect shadow of a bush ; for which attention to his comforts he seemed to feel grateful, expressing himself so by the wagging of his tail. But, alas ! this was no safe road to loiter upon : I proceeded onward, my poor companion trotting with difficulty behind, with his tongue nearly black, and his feet sadly blistered, till we came to a separation in the roads. This I passed, taking the left turning ; and when my weary friend arrived at it, as I turned to look after him I observed him to stop, — he hesitated between affection and necessity, gave a parting- look, and instantly followed the path to the right, where doubtless instinct taught him he might find relief. I witnessed his agony, and would not call to him at the moment of hesitation. I saw him no more ! — perhaps he died. Blame not, gentle reader, this tribute of feeling to a friend. He was the only one in that land of strangers upon whose fidelity I could rely ; and I felt as much sorrow at the painful but necessary separation, as if I had been abandoned by the only tie which bound me to the country ! Our 208 A NOSTRUM. — YAQUI INDIANS. attachment to each other had been cemented by mutual services ; and a degree of sympathy, which only those who have been placed in similar situations can feel, had created a companionship between us, which even at this time I feel as sensibly as when he gave me his parting look ! The storm over, I followed the road and reached Tesopaco at seven, P. M., where I slept. Don Carlos Lavandera, son-in-law to the owner of the hacienda, gave me the following recipe for a toothache. Take the leaves of rue, and with the addition of a little salt, form them into a bolus, which place in the hollow of the ear, on the side opposite to that of the aching tooth. A stimulating warmth is thus produced ; and I have in many, though not in all cases, known it to have an almost instantaneous effect in removing the pain. He also gave me a receipt for making cephalic snuff for the removal of headache ; and as a last favour, he provided me with a new and more intelli- gent guide. Next morning I bade adieu to the hospitable owner of Tesopaco, and following a road to the north- east, passed a rancho called Sendradito, in front of which was assembled a large party of Yaqui Indians. I passed through them without molestation, although I expected every moment that they would shoot their arrows into my body till they were as thick as pins in a pincushion ! and saying, “ Buenos dias Senores,” (Good morning, gentlemen,) I was soon out of sight of these suspicious characters. I next over- took a shower of rain, which made the roads across BUENA VISTA. 209 the rich soil almost impassable ; the mules sank at every step, eight or ten inches into the softened ground. At night I slept at “El Alamo,” a soli- tary rancho about eight leagues N. N. W. from Tesopaco. The rain continued pouring all night. During the day, I had an opportunity of trying the water- proof qualities of my woollen serape, and although it sheltered me for a few hours, there was such an increase of weight, in consequence of the amazing quantity of water absorbed by it, that even an ex- posure to rain was infinitely preferable to an aching back and shoulders. I brought with me, from Eng- land, an India-rubber cloak, but the action of the hot sun seemed either to have melted or burnt up the gum ; and the rest of the material split and tore, like painted canvass after the oil has been thoroughly dried in the sup. At noon the day following, I entered the Presidio of Buena Vista, having crossed the river Yaqui, which bathes the foot of the eminence whereupon the town stands. This is a wretched place, and the revolution has made it infinitely worse, as its dis- tance from the Yaqui town of Toriu is only ten leagues lower down the river, which is here shallow. The population is estimated at eight hundred, but I think it cannot exceed three hundred souls. It contains at present numberless refugees, and there is a small detachment of troops stationed in a spe- cies of fortification furnished with two small guns. The church has long ceased to have a serviceable p 210 A PUZZLING QUESTION. roof, which, instead of being at the top, has, by an obedience to the laws of gravitation, to which the rotten rafters opposed a feeble resistance, found a resting-place near the foundation. There is not a tree or a shrub growing near any of the houses, which latter are constructed of mud, and are white- washed on the outside ; and they seem following the good example of the church-roof. Don Carlos Lavand6ra had given me a letter of introduction to Don Manuel Ot6ro, in whose house I lodged ; but as the place afforded but little food, he gave me a dinner composed chiefly of tortillas and wild fruit. After having partaken of this patri- archal meal, an old man entered the room, and, sitting himself down by my side, observed that I was an Englishman, which discovery led him into a warm discussion of his own Christian faith, where- in he reproached me as being an heretic and a Jew, which in this country are synonymous terms. Feel- ing myself much more disposed to take a nap, than to listen to his unedifying conversation, much less to reply to his arguments, I put an end to the dis- cussion by asking him, how many days’ journey there are from this world to the next ? This he did not find it so easy to answer, although he at last said that the transit of the soul was instanta- neous. Whereupon I asked him to repeat his “ credo and when he came to that part of it which says “ and the third day he rose again from the dead and ascended into heaven,” I stopped him and repeated my question. It had the effect which I APPLICATION FOR A GUIDE. 211 desired ; he felt at an entire loss for a reply — wish- ed me a good morning, and departed. On the day of my quitting Buena Vista I pro- ceeded only as far as Palosevampo, a distance of five leagues, where there is a small hut, without food, water, or inhabitants. But as I was desirous of passing through Bacat6te by daylight, I slept here. With respect to the pass of Bacatete, it will be necessary to make a few cursory ob- servations. The danger of travelling renders it now absolutely necessary to take a guide, whose knowledge of the country might be equal, in the event of encountering hostile Indians, to carry one through any of the intricacies of the mountains, even though a running Jight were unavoidable. And as I conjectured that a bold and intelligent person of this description could be met with at Buena Vista, I made an application to the alcalde for the purpose, who put this question to me : “ Which road do you mean to take ?" “ The nearest.” “ Well,” said his Honour, “ if you have made up your mind to go that way, I can find you a guide — and as I was beginning to thank him for his kindness, he added, “ but you will require an escort of at least five hundred soldiers to accompany you.” “ Why so ?” “ It is only two days ago,” observed the alcalde, “ that a party, consisting of nearly three hundred men, left here; — and as we had positive accounts p 2 212 PALOSEVAMPO. that the Yaquis have taken up a station in the pass, and have lately made numbers of prisoners who have not yet returned to give an account of their treat- ment, they determined to go three or four days’ journey round the hills, to avoid a similar fate : and therefore, if you now persist in your intention, I will furnish you with a guide.” — News so disagree- able I did not expect to have heard, and I was therefore obliged to take some time for deliberation. But however, knowing that unless I went by this road I should be delayed at least three or four days longer in my journey to Guaymas, to say nothing of the entire want of water or of the excessive heat of the weather, I told his Honour that if he would give me a good guide, I should prefer going by the way of the dangerous Bacatete, as I considered it would be quite as agreeable to die by the hands of the Yaquis as to perish by thirst! Accordingly the alcalde gave me a relation of his own for a guide, who, he assured me, was a brave fellow ; and that if any person could bring me safely out of a difficulty, he was the man. As I could not obtain provisions for the road at Buena Vista, I passed a comfortless night at Palo- sevampo, and departed early next morning. Our route lay over a plain, upon which immense quanti- ties of the petaya were growing, now in fruit. We fortunately found at our last night’s lodging a long pole, which my guide arranged in the following manner. He cut the point sharp, and at the dis- tance of about three inches from it, he secured a CAUTIOUS TRAVELLING. 213 small bit of stick across, in order to prevent the point from entering too far. Think not, reader, that be- cause this pointed pole was fourteen feet long, it was our intention to stick Yaquis with it — it was to be appropriated to more harmless purposes ; namely, de- taching the fruit from the tops of the petaya, a plant of the cylindrical cactus species, growing from eight to twenty feet high. Our sole subsistence now depended upon this fruit. It possesses this quality : that, unlike most other luscious fruits, it rather removes than creates thirst ; while at the same time it satisfies, to a certain degree, the sensation of hunger. This occupation necessarily delayed our journey, and we did not get sight of the pass till noon. We now proceeded with more caution as we approached the seat of danger, and trotted onward without uttering a word, keep- ing our eyes intently fixed upon the opening in the mountain through which we had to pass, in order to observe if there were any appearance of smoke which might proceed from the fires of the Yaquis, and casting them occasionally to the ground to trace footsteps on the path we were treading. Here we observed a dog’s or a wolf’s track ; there a horse’s ; but the impression of human feet was only now and then discernible in the sand. I had previously concerted with my servant to keep at the distance of half a league behind us ; and in the event of his observing us to be engaged with the Indians, and of hearing the discharge of our guns, to file off to the north-eastward, and conceal 214 CAUTIOUS TRAVELLING. himself in the brushwood which grew in that direc- tion, until night, when he was to resume his route, travelling night and day, until he should arrive at a place called La Punta de la Agua, where I had rea- son to believe, from the accounts received before my departure from Buena Vista, a detachment of troops was stationed. My guide and myself arranged, that in case of an attack, we would keep together, and by a circuitous route, at least mislead the Indians as to the direction which my servant, with my trunks containing clothes and papers, was to take : deter- mined that these should escape, although we might not succeed in saving our necks ! There was just so much danger in this enterprise as to engage the whole of the faculties ; a sensation which it is so de- lightful to experience ; and having in it some of the spirit of adventure, a degree of interest was awaken- ed in the mind, which made us as insensible to the heat of the weather, as to hunger and thirst. We approached nearer and nearer, still maintain- ing the same obstinate silence, and watching the ears of our animals, which, as they have quicker organs of hearing than the human species, are a good guide to judge of the presence of people within a certain distance. Here we halted a moment to examine the flints of our pistols and guns; shook out the priming from the pans, and applied fresh powder ; slackened our swords in their scabbards ; and lastly, having tightened the girths of our saddles, we remounted our beasts, which had hitherto manifested no interest in our proceedings. AN ALARM. 215 The guide, as in duty bound, proceeded first ; and, when at the distance of half a mile from the entrance of the pass, his mule suddenly pricked up his ears and began to snort, as they always do when near any thing strange to them. The guide suddenly turned round and proposed a flight, evidently mani- festing no small degree of alarm at our situation ; however, as I had seen nothing to warrant a retro- grade movement, I desired him to continue his march. But this he positively refused to do; and, approach- ing still nearer to me, whispered his conviction that the Indians were close to us. Finding that he would not go on, I asked him if he had not fixed his price to the danger : he replied, “ Yes ; but then, we were safe in Buena Vista ; it does not suit me to go for- ward by any means now .” I was so exceedingly an- gry with him for his endeavour to get off from the bargain, that I began to scold him in earnest ; and, drawing a pistol from the holster, I told him, if he did not instantly follow me, I would blow his brains out for a cowardly traitor. Here he applied his hand to his mouth, and making that hissing sound which is intended to signify “ silence,” he said, “ Do not speak so loud, for fear we should be heard ; be- cause, if we are, it will be difficult to save ourselves. In fact, these cursed Yaquis have arrows a yard long, and I have no desire to feel them sticking into my own body. If, therefore, you will run the risk by going foremost, I have no objection to follow ; and I will not desert you, should we be put to flight. But, as the Indians conceal themselves in the bushes, from 216 PROGRESS. whence they may fire their arrows without our being aware of our danger, or indeed seeing an enemy, I would rather go out of the world the last than the first of the two.” This is being candid, thought I; but there was no remedy. If he leaves me, knowing no- thing of the road, I shall be in a sad plight; I therefore once more put myself in motion, but now at the head of the cavalcade. We shortly discovered that the cause which had excited the notice of our beasts, was several others of the same species that were grazing near the path, the sight of which had been conceal- ed from us by the intermediate bushes. At two, P. M., we reached the foot of the Puerto de Bacatete, and here we halted to listen. There were no fresh prints of feet, and no barking of dogs, nor were the long ears of our mules erected, but suf- fered to hang in the carelessly pendant manner which is their custom, when not directed to a particular point to catch the sound of something stirring. Thus encouraged, we took our muskets in our hands, cock- ed their locks, and began to ascend, casting hasty glances from side to side, in quick succession, to catch the motion of any living creature which might threaten to impede our progress. No sound disturb- ed the peaceful silence which reigned here, except the tread of our mules, and the agitation of the leaves by an occasional breeze of wind, which, instead of cooling the rarefied atmosphere, seemed infinitely to increase its heat. Every twenty yards we halted to listen, and then advanced again. At last, however, we reached the summit of the pass, from whence we PROGRESS CONTINUED. 217 obtained an extensive view of the ravine below to the westward, which is confined between monstrous hills of every tint, and extending for at least a league before us. In the distance I saw blue mountains, which my guide pointed out as being those of Guay- inas. Here we listened again ; all was silent as the grave; not even a bird sent forth its voice to distract our attention, nor were there any appearances which indicated the vicinity of an enemy ! The elevation of this spot would have afforded us timely notice of the approach of Indians, so I deter- mined to make it my resting-place until my servant should join us with the cargoes. I therefore alight- ed, loosened the girths of the saddle, tied up the mule, and went with the guide in quest of water, which he said he knew to exist in this situation. Not a drop could we find ; and we were therefore obliged to shoulder our long fruit-lance, and go in search of petayas, of which fruit there was an abun- dance on the side of a hill about two or three hun- dred yards from us. My servant did not arrive until about five, p. m., when we mounted, and descended the western side of the “ Puerto and our guide, having lost all ap- prehensions of the enemy, conducted us forward at a rapid rate ; but suddenly his watchful eye caught the sight of the smoke of fires; the ears of the mules were again pointed in the direction, and the guide refused to proceed. He now gave as an excuse, that as he was a soldier, and known as such to many of the Yaquis, should he fall into their hands, he felt satis- 218 AVOID THE INDIANS. fied they would put him to a torturing death ! I in- quired whether he was acquainted with no way to the left, which might increase our distance from the fires, and, at the same time, not draw us very greatly from our route ? He replied, that there was only this road, and that it passed within a thousand yards of the situation from whence the smoke issued, which was by the side of a well of fresh water. My next inquiry was, whether he knew the way in the dark ? He said he did — “ And if we wait until dusk, will you accompany me?” — “ Yes, provided you lead!” This settled the knotty point ; and, concealing our- selves in a hollow, we alighted, although we still kept our guns in readiness until the shades of night should come to our aid, and enable us to escape the sharp eyes of the Indians. We had not long to wait. It was already half- past six when we halted, and at seven it was dark. We now mounted, and proceeded with caution, and without speaking beyond a whisper. I was obliged to head the troop, which consisted of my guide and servant, both of whom followed in the same track- I observed the horizon to the right to be illuminated by the Indians’ fires, and the howling of their dogs convinced us that our journey was a critical one. At eight the fires flared with a red glow, which was dimly reflected by the surrounding scenery ; and fol- lowing the winding of the Canada to the left, at an angle of thirty or forty degrees, we left them burn- ing behind us. Our guide was now as anxious to advance as he had before been to retreat ; and placing A VALE OF THOllNS. 219 himself forward, he clapped spurs to his mule, thereby obliging us to trot smartly after him. For- tunately my trunk and bed weighed but little ; and they offered but little impediment to our speed. If we had lost sight of our guide, heaven knows when we might have arrived at Guaymas ! Having escaped this difficulty we got into another, equally perplexing. The guide, in his haste to ad- vance, or, as it might perhaps have been, owing to the darkness of the night, mistook the track, and we found ourselves at nine o’clock wandering among a knotty sort of cactus, (called choya by the natives,) the branches of which are composed of small lumps growing one to another, each filled with thorns about an inch long, and so sharp, that when their barbed points touched either our mules or our own legs, they penetrated, and with the greatest difficulty could be removed ; for, wherever the hand was ap- plied to tear them off, the thorns adhered to that limb also ; and as each of these porcupine bits sepa- rated with the greatest ease from its parent at the joint, we were obliged to carry the martyrdom along with us. Each lump contains a certain portion of seeds, which are well protected within a nest of thorns, and are thus transported to distances when- ever they adhere to a passing animal. We had succeeded in finding our way into this vale of thorns very well ; but how to find our way out again, or indeed to proceed in any direction, puzzled the guide, and ultimately obliged us to pass the night not above a mile from our foes ! No sooner 220 A HALT. were the mules unloaded and unsaddled than they began to sound their melodious trumpets, to the infi- nite consternation of our guide. Fortunately, the wind bore their aspirations in a direction contrary to that of the Yaquis; whereas, had the reverse been the case, I know not if the natural barrier by which we were surrounded, and from which we could not extricate ourselves, would have protected us against an unwelcome visit from the very people whom, of all others in the world, we were most anxious to avoid. As it was, our situation was by no means enviable. Without having drunk any water since our departure from Buena Vista, or eaten any other food than what the petayas afforded us, we felt ourselves languid, and little inclined to sleep. As for animating our spirits by smoking a paper cigar, that was entirely out of the question, — our mouths were already parched. Our tired mules too seemed little inclined to partake of the dry pasturage which surrounded them, probably from a similar cause to that which made us abstain from smoking. How did I meditate upon the roast-beef and com- fortable inns of England, where the traveller may find a shelter, a cheering fire, a comfortable supper, and a soft bed at any hour of the night ! And as I fell asleep with my mind fully occupied by these un- comfortable reflections, my dreams were full of smoking kitchens, better than that of Lucullus, and of tables infinitely superior to that of Vitellius, breaking down under the load of their viands. Here TANTALIZING DREAMS. 221 the coherency of fancy was interrupted by images of ships at sea, storms, and diving-bells, to which suc- ceeded a confused part of what had occupied my thoughts during the day ; such as dangerous passes, difficult roads, attack of savages, desertion of the guide ; and then, yielding to a stronger impres- sion, the empty and craving state of the sto- mach again brought back the busy kitchen and the overloaded tables ; and observing here a little more coherency than before, I imagined that I took my seat before a full plate, which agreeably tantalized my appetite. I applied to my mouth a bit of meat, which in point of size was more commensurate with my keenness of stomach, than corresponding Avith the laws of good breeding : alas ! it suddenly va- nished untasted ! Another bit was fixed upon the fork — my lips divided to receive the proffered offer- ing, and my teeth ready to perform their masticulat- ing duty closed with a convulsive movement, which startled the dreamer, and aroused him into a painful and tormenting consciousness of his real situation. No table spread, no viands cooked — I could call no- thing clearly to my recollection, but the pain which I sensibly felt in my tongue ; and rolling on the other side, in an agony of disappointment, I fell asleep again, and again the same fancies recurred till morn- ing came, when I found myself even more exhausted than the day before, in consequence of my broken slumbers during the night. The fair reader must not imagine that what I have here described is pure invention ; I can as- 222 GUIDE BEWILDERED. sure her it is no such thing. Nor is it necessary that there be a predisposition towards epicurism, where the dreams are occupied with eating fancies. The imagination during sleep is, it is true, not un- der the influence of systematic recollection, or of as- sociations which depend in a great measure upon the organs of sight. But it is sensible of sensations, which a particular state of the body alone, either of pain or pleasure, may communicate : which sen- sation may be called the eyes of the imagination , through which it sees objects indistinctly, and a world in miniature. And although I am wander- ing a little, perhaps a great deal, out of my depth, I am convinced that there is not a person who has not experienced that the incoherency of dreams de- pends chiefly upon the changing sensations of the body during sleep, and that even sound enters into their composition. But the investigation of this abstruse question I leave to wiser heads than my own. Daylight had scarcely arrived before we were mounted, and threading our way through the choya plant. But our guide had completely bewildered himself, and he was taking us to the northward, in- stead of the W.S.W., which I discovered by my com- pass ; and as I could not tell where our route lay, a very natural apprehension entered my mind, that al- though our distance from Guay mas could not be more than fifteen or twenty leagues, we might pro- bably have the pleasure of dying for want of suste- nance within sight of port ! This was a danger DIFFICULTIES AND DISAPPOINTMENTS. 223 indeed, of which I had never even dreamed, and I half began to lament our escape from the Yaquis. Of hunger, it is true, I considered we could not die, while so much cactus remained near us ; but of thirst — here I became painfully sensible of my situa- tion, and rendered desperate by the reflections which it awakened, I immediately directed my course to- wards a hill, at no great distance from us, followed by my guide and servant, brushed through the thor- ny obstructions, and in a short time both my mule and myself were as full of them as a spaniel usually is of burs after a hard day’s hunt in cover. Life, however, depended upon speed ; I hurried on, and soon reached the eminence, by the aid of which I was to learn my sad fate, or see my way to avoid it. We all three ascended the hill, which is very rugged and stony ; and which probably no other mortal ever visited, — and discovered a part of the plain uncovered by the cactus ; hereupon we de- scended again with renewed hopes, and proceeded to the spot. We encountered numberless difficulties during the day, and had many disappointments, such, for instance, as coming to what appeared to us a road, which we willingly followed, in the hope that it would lead us to the “ Camin.0 Real,” (high road) but to our disappointment we found it terminate in a thicket, through which only a fox or a hare could penetrate. It was, in short, only a road made by hares ! These mistakes must not be considered as matter of wonder, nor should the traveller be charged with 224 WATER, DISCOVERED. stupidity. Roads in many parts of Mexico, and particularly in the interior provinces, are merely paths traversed by horses and mules, but never by a coach or waggon. And it requires a great know- ledge of travelling, constant observation, and nice discernment, to make out the tracks which distin- guish a high road from one which merely leads to a rancho or to the open country, frequented only by those who go for wood ; or even from a rabbit track, as they all resemble each other as much as the two blades of a pair of scissors. Yet another night we were fated to endure the pains arising from unsatisfied hunger and unassuaged thirst. Had it not been for the fruit of the petaya, I doubt much whether the reader would have been molested by this narrative. Probably, the author’s uninterred bones would have been left to whiten in the sun, while his flesh would have afforded a lean feast for wolves and lions ! The day following, being the fourth after my de- parture from Buena Vista, our ears were suddenly regaled by the sound of water, which indeed our mules discovered before we did ; and making directly for it, in spite of every effort that we made at the bridle to restrain them, they rushed into the midst of the stream, which was full three feet deep, and run- ning rapidly ; and, as it passed through a soft soil, it was shockingly discoloured. Finding myself in the very centre of the rivulet, I filled my horn-cup, and supplied with eagerness the beverage to my lips. Drink I did, for there was no resisting it ; but it did SAN JOSE DE LOS GUAYMAS. 225 not in the slightest degree quench my thirst, as I am convinced that it contained more mud than water ! The mules, who were not particular, drank, not till they were satisfied, but till they had filled themselves ; after which they permitted us to separate them from their nectar. We resumed our journey towards the rancho of Guaymas, which we happily reached at noon. I inquired for the house of Sehor Orochuto, to whom Monteverde had given me a letter of introduc- tion. He is the present alcalde here, a native of Spanish Biscay, and looks as if he had an eye to bu- siness. He gave me some useful hints about the pearl-fishery, which he himself had formerly followed, but not with much success. He received me kindly, and was not a little amused at the quantity of the water which I drank, nor less astonished that I should have come through the pass of Bacat^te without having met with a misfortune (disgracia). The Rancho de San Josd de los Guaymas, as it is called, is situated at the head of one of the bays ad- joining that of the port. The soil is sandy, but the inhabitants have succeeded in forming gardens, from which they supply themselves and the port with vegetables. The wells are not deep, and their prox- imity to the bay renders the water brackish. The population is said to be about three hundred souls. The houses are small, in consequence of the difficulty of getting timber sufficiently long to form rafters for the flat roofs. They are constructed of mud formed into bricks ; and were the rains annually very heavy, Q 226 ARRIVAL AT GUAY MAS. they would soon melt and return to their pristine nature. The 4th of July, the day after my arrival, was Sunday ; and as I did not like to deprive my servants of the benefit of hearing Padre Leyver say mass, I postponed my departure till eight o’clock, a. m., when I supposed the service would be over. But, to my mortification, even at this late hour, the reverend father had not deigned to quit his bed. I therefore desired the servant to load and saddle the mules, and prepare for our departure, having already breakfasted two hours since. The padre having heard from the “ sacristan ” what was going forward, presented him- self under the viranda of a house in the square, where the service of the church is said, there being no holy edifice in the place ; and he sent to desire I would remain till mass was over. Not liking to raise a scandal against myself, in a place where the good offices of many of the inhabitants might, at a future period, be useful in my fishing operations, I did not disobey the padre’s mandate. The road from hence to the port is very sandy, and the reflection of the sun from the sandy soil is very distressing to the eyes. Indeed this observation applies to all the roads in the republic whereon I travelled in my various migrations, which were neither few nor short. Strangers to the country use coloured spectacles, which in some degree obviate the inconvenience. I arrived at the port of Guay mas at noon. The Wolf and Bruja had been some days waiting my ar- ABSURD REGULATION. 227 rival, having returned from their unsuccessful expe- ditions, the one at Loreto, the other at the Tiburow island. From the captain and supercargo of the Wolf, I received information of their operations, and saw specimens of the pearl-oyster which they had obtain- ed. The pearls were wretchedly small, badly shaped, and few in number, and they attributed their failure more to the inefficiency of the diving bell than to any other definable cause. Their drags too, they as- sured me, had been perfectly useless, except in bringing up a few shells, among which I discovered the murex. In consequence of this unpleasant infor- mation, I commenced inquiries respecting native divers. Unfortunately only four could be obtained. I may here observe that the only efficient divers are those of the Yaqui nation ; and as they were all en- gaged in the revolution, none were to be had upon any terms except the four alluded to, who probably, if they had been good for any thing, would have already joined their brethren. A difficulty had arisen in consequence of the Bruja, (sea-witch,) which bore the Mexican flag, being com- manded by an Englishman, as the statute expressly says that the captain and two-thirds of the crew are to be Mexicans. This is an absurd regulation in this country ; nor can it at present be acted upon, as the only seamen to be obtained are Indians from the Manilla islands, who happen occasionally to be dis- charged from merchantmen arriving from that port. And so convinced has the Mexican Government be- come of the injustice of obliging ship-owners to give Q 2 228 A DEPUTATION. the command of their vessels, if they bear the na- tional flag, to people incompetent to navigate them, that they have lately issued an order in council, with the consent of the General Congress, that foreigners may be allowed to command Mexican vessels, pro- vided an efficient Mexican captain cannot be obtained. Of this order, however, Senor Pesceyra, the com- mandant, pleaded ignorance, and said his duty obliged him to detain the Bruja in port. I was surprised at his objecting, on this ground, to her sail- ing now, inasmuch as he had made no difficulty, on that account, when she left on her first expedition. But fortunately I had received official information respecting the order in question, and showed it to the commandant, who looked rather astonished, and was then obliged to acknowledge that he had heard of it before. I found the Bruja in a wretched state for sea- service. Her sails could not resist a fresh breeze ; and she was unprovided with cables and anchors, notwithstanding the directions I had left relative to her complete equipment. Getting her ready for sea occupied us till the 10th, on which day I had made arrangements for sailing in the Wolf. On the night previous to this day, however, the approach of the Yaquis was so positively affirmed, that a deputation consisting of the alcalde, commandant, &c. person- ally waited upon me to petition in the name of Hea- ven and of all the saints, that I would delay my de- parture for a day or two, as the presence of the ves- sels would be their only protection in case a general PICQUET SURROUNDED. 229 massacre were attempted by the Yaquis. Feeling it to be my duty to succour people in such distress, and that by a compliance with a solicitation made by the most important personages in the port, I should gain so many additional friends for the pearl and coral company, I consented to remain for two or three days longer. From the 11th to the 15th, time passed in suc- cessive alarms, and each night the women and chil- dren slept on the wharf, ready for embarkation the instant an attack on the town should be made. During these days of general panic, junta after junta assembled, without once coming to a resolution. Deputations every instant passed each other on the road from the port to the rancho, and from the rancho to the port, praying for assistance, which both wanted, and neither had to bestow. Horsemen, and women and children on foot, momentarily arrived with precipitation, having left their clothes behind them, not less on account of their fright than from reflecting; that the divided counsels of the rancho were no guarantee for safety. The commandant of the rancho had taken up a station half-way between it and the nearest Yaqui town with a respectable force and a field-piece ; but early on the morning of the 14th he came galloping into the rancho, as hard as his horse could carry him, followed, at a distance, by all his troop. It ap- pears that, during the previous night, the Indians had surrounded the picquet, concealing themselves among the bushes and reeds ; and instead of attack- 230 PROCEED TO SEA. ing them in the usual way of warfare, used only the weapons of menace and satire, which they managed with such ready wit and address, that the com- mandant and his brave companions, thinking their situation no longer a safe one, commenced a rapid and confused flight. They had however previously thrown their cannon into a ditch, that it might not detain them on their retreat, or fall into the enemy’s hands ; which it must have done, if it had been left above-ground. The commandant swore that the Indians were in pursuit, and would attack the rancho in less than half an hour ; and he strongly recom- mended every one to go to the port, and to embark in the vessels for Lower California without a mo- ment’s delay. It is said that the advice would have been implicitly followed, could the property , which would have been left behind, have been insured. The result was, that avarice subdued fear for a time ; and although numbers went, yet a great portion remained. On the 16th, in the evening, the American brig, Berminger, Captain Jackson, arrived, and this re- leased me from the necessity of prolonging my stay. On the morning of the 17th I embarked in the Wolf, and we immediately proceeded to sea, with the Bruja, although the wind was contrary, blowing a fresh gale from the south-east. 231 CHAPTER X. Translation of documents, &c. relating to the pearl fishery. — A general outline. — Cause of the fishery’s decay. — Arrive at Loreto. — The Virgin deprived of her jewels. — A great genius. — Influence of habit upon the mind. — Colour. — Morals. — Fatal effects of dried figs. — Salt. — List of known pearl-beds. — A pass. — La Paz. — Embark in the Bruja ; sail from Loreto on a voyage of discovery. — Investigate the Gulf of Molexe. — The author becomes a diver. — Effects of pressure of the water on the fine vessels of the ears and eyes.— The imagination, how affected. — Sea-monsters. — Oyster’s power of locomotion. — Reason why neither diving-bell nor drags can be beneficially employed in the Gulf. — Deception of the senses. — Fissures in the submarine rocks. — Diver’s mode of defence. — Stimulating effects of hope. — A submarine ad- venture. I will here give a translation of a document, furnished me in Mexico, which details the usages of the pearl fishery. It will enable the reader to judge of the negociation, and of its general features. A. “ A vessel from eleven to twelve yards’ length in keel, drawing little water, and having from four to six oars a-side. 232 TRANSLATION OF DOCUMENTS, &C. “ A sufficient stock of water for the crew during eight days. “ The requisite quantity of wheat, maize, and frijol (a kind of bean) for the three months of July, August, and September, during which the fishery lasts. “ The boats generally leave this coast for that of California in the month of June, arranging so as to reach the diving stations at the end of the month. “ The vessel being provided with an Arraez and Armador (master and supercargo), the divers should be selected from among those who have already been at the stations at which it is purposed to fish. An advance, if the divers demand it, is made to them under the cognizance of the magistrates of the place, to the amount generally of six, eight, or ten dol- lars, taking care that they do not abscond after receiving it. “ The Arraez should be a good seaman. He is either paid a salary, or is permitted to take divers on his own account, according to the agreement made. “ The Armador also receives a salary or takes divers. As all the interests are under his care, he should be honest, active, and experienced. He must deduct either in shells or in pearls whatever may be due from the divers : preference for this pur- pose is commonly given to the shell, as otherwise they conceal the products of what they extract, and thus many of the divers do not pay. “ The Armador should take with him money and RELATING TO THE PEARL FISHERY. 233 goods to purchase pearls, both from his own divers and from those of other vessels, as this branch, when well conducted, is very profitable, and by creating a monopoly enhances the value of the pearls raised for the speculator. “ The divers are supplied with victuals, a knife, and a quarter of a yard of blue cloth or baize. “ After deducting a fifth of the whole of the shells raised (if such tax be payable, because formerly there was a privilege of exemption for the first year) the remainder is divided into two heaps, and the Armador selects the one he pleases. “ The best grounds are in the vicinity of La Paz ; but as they fluctuate in produce, it is best to enquire of those who fished the year before. “ The boats for this service should be of a moderate size, and light, for the facility it affords of removing speedily to another station, should the one fished prove poor. “ The divers are provided with two meals — atole (gruel) with roast meat in the morning, and, on re- turning from their labours in the afternoon, what is called by them ‘ pozole.’ “ The diving begins ordinarily about eleven in the morning, and ends at two in the afternoon. “ The season commences in July, when the water has become warm, and finishes towards the latter end of September. “ The diving-boat should, for the convenience of the divers, have no deck ; or if it have, it should be movable. 234 TRANSLATION OF DOCUMENTS, &C. “ Note. — The foregoing account was written by Don Antonio Jose Cevellas, one of the principal mer- chants and residents of Alamos, who was many years engaged in the traffic of pearls in California. “ Jose Antonio Herrera.” “ Memorandum on the pearl fishery of Loreto, by Don Jose Maria Retio. “ 1st. The best season of the year for the pearl fishery of Loreto is from the month of May to the end of September. 44 2d. The vessels employed in fishing should be from twenty to forty tons burthen ; capacious, con- venient, and of little draft of water, or just of suffi- cient size to carry the provision and water re- quisite. “ 3d. What wages the divers receive I do not know ; according to the information furnished me, they have a share of the produce ; and before sailing, are allowed an advance to enable them to leave a supply of clothing and grain with their families. This advance the Armador of the expedition takes care shall be reimbursed from their share of the first pearls raised. 44 4th. The diving stations vary in depth from three to twelve fathoms. 44 5th. Each vessel (of suppose twenty-five tons) is provided with a 4 practico,’ or master, three or four sailors, and from fifteen to twenty divers. 44 The number of vessels employed in the fishery is RELATING TO THE PEARL FISHERY. 295 about six or eight, and the quantity of pearls pro- cured by them annually is supposed to be from four to five pounds weight, worth perhaps from eight to ten thousand dollars. “ 6th. Besides Loreto, there is another station in La Paz, the Bay of Molexe, where they fished formerly. “ Many heaps of shells and remains of washing- tanks are to be met with on the shores of the coast opposite the island of Tiburow. This island is in 29° 10' north, and is thirty miles long, by ten or fifteen broad. It is inhabited by the C6res Indians ; who make it hazardous to land there, as they use arrows with poisoned heads. Their number is per- haps from one thousand to fifteen hundred. These Indians, during the greater part of the year, inhabit the main land, where they have their villages. They support themselves by hunting and fishing. The island is very barren, and has but little water. Tortoises probably abound there, as these Indians are in the habit of bringing the shells here (pitic) for sale. “ There must be many pearl grounds at the head of the gulf, it being better protected from high winds. “ 7th. The gulf, up to the present time, has never been properly examined. The vessels engaged in the fishery of Loreto follow the tracks of their pre- decessors ; where one goes, they all go, without seeking to make new discoveries. 236 TRANSLATION OF DOCUMENTS, &C, “ The fishery of Loreto appears to be more pro- ductive than that of Panama : as to the quality of the pearl, there is no difference.” Copy of a letter from Captain John Hall, dated San Bias, 25th October, 1825, addressed to Messrs. Herrera and Ritchie, and forwarded by them to me in Mexico : B. “ The fishing commences generally in July, and continues for three months. The depth of water is from three to twelve fathoms, and in some places they go as deep as fourteen fathoms, but this happens but seldom. “ The situations of the beds of oysters I have marked upon the charts (which were likewise sent to me) with a slight shade of carmine. That off the island of Tiburow is considered an excellent lay; but has seldom or never been wrought, on account of the fierceness of the Indians who inhabit the island. But I, who have been accustomed, in the service of the house, to the Malays, would have no objection to try my luck amongst them, for they cannot pos- sibly be worse. Those off Point Lorenzo and the island of Cerrebro, are considered the most produc- tive that are frequented at present, and where they have all been fishing this year. The harbours of Pichiluigo and La Paz are very productive also. In fact, the whole bay of La Paz, and all along the coast as far as Loreto, is the general fishing-ground. “ The present mode they have of paying the di- RELATING TO THE PEARL FISHERY. 23 7 vers and the government license is as follows : every time the diver comes lip, the largest oysters which he may bring with him are placed on one side for the Virgin. All the rest are then hove into a large pile, and in the evening they are divided thus : eight shells are put on one side for the owners, eight on the other for the divers, and two in a third heap for the government, which comes to be five per cent. “ It is the custom to advance the divers thirty or forty dollars each, for which sum the proprietors generally buy the whole of their share of the oysters, as the poor divers are afraid to open them in case they should not contain pearls enough to repay their advances. “ I understood from the Governor of La Paz, that next year the government mean to change their me- thod with regard to the duty ; and instead of five per cent., they mean to exact twenty rials per diver for the season, which is to be paid by their em- ployers ; so that if one hundred divers be employed, the government will demand 250 dollars, in place of a chance of five per cent., or more, or nothing. “ There are many places where the men are afraid of going down, on account of tintereros (ground- sharks,) and marrayos. This last is an immense broad fish, formed like a skate. These, I understand, hug the divers with two long fins, and carry the poor fellows off. We struck one in Pichiluigo with the harpoon, to which instrument he was fast for about an hour. According to Mr. Murray’s (chief officer) 238 GENERAL OUTLINE, estimate, it was nearly twenty feet across the back.” The Spanish originals A. and B. will be found in the Appendix. Baron Humboldt says, “It is probable that these two branches of fishery (the pearl and whale) will one day become an object of very high importance.” About sixteen or eighteen small craft are an- nually employed in the fishery, and obtain, when the weather has been favourable, and the divers fortu- nate in finding oysters (which does not always hap- pen), about five hundred dollars’ value of pearls each ; sometimes even one thousand dollars. But if the expenses at which they are obtained in fitting out vessels, bad seasons, and other contingencies, are taken into account, the net amount which falls to the share of each principal is very considerably re- duced ; and were it not that the value of pearls in Guay in as and Loreto exceed that in Guadalaxara and Mexico, which is quite as unintelligible as that the price of fish at our sea-ports should be greater than in London, there would be few adventurers on the coast of California. And, as I before stated, so fully aware is the Government of Sonora of the pre- carious existence of the fishery, that, as an induce- ment to the natives to continue this enterprise, they passed a decree, absolving the payment of diezmos, or tenths, in the hope that it might increase the num- ber of adventurers, and lead to new discoveries. The whole business, from all I can learn, is a sys- LOItETO. 289 tem of fraud and chicanery, consisting principally in the purchase and sale of oysters amongst the fishermen themselves. Indeed, a person at the ran- cho, who is a fisherman, told me that his only de- pendence for realizing in the pearl trade arose from the sale of liquor and dried figs to the crews of his competitor’s boats, which he exchanged for unopened oysters, and sometimes, though rarely, pearls. These vessels go out annually upon speculation; and as they take every oyster they can catch, with- out reference to its size or age, the fishery must be greatly impoverished. Indeed, since the year 1741 or 42, the fishery of California appears never to have been much spoken of in Sonora, however favourably Humboldt may have thought of it when he wrote his elaborate work on Mexico. On the 19th we arrived at Nuestra Senora de Loreto, the capital of Lower California, founded in the year of our Lord 1698, by Don Juan Caballero y Osis, who wrote a long account of its importance, &c. The anchorage is open to the winds from the north, north-west, and south-east ; and when these winds prevail, the heavy sea which they raise ren- ders it by no means safe for a vessel to attempt riding them out. The island of Carmina affords shelter from the east ; and there is a small bay to the southward of Loreto, about fourteen leagues distant, called La Bahia Escondida, in which small vessels may anchor with perfect security. As soon as I arrived at Loreto I went on shore, 240 DON JOSE PADRES. and waited on the commandant, Don Jose Maria Padres, to pay my respects, and make arrangements with him respecting duties, &c. I delivered to him an official letter with which I had been furnished in Mexico. He resides in the best house in the place, near the church, which was formerly celebrated for the richness of the Virgin’s pearls ; but in a visit paid by some Chilean or Columbian vessels, in the year 1821, under pretence of making the colony free, the crew thought it their duty, it is said, to re- lieve the Virgin from her superfluous weight of pearls, and the church of the greater part of its gold and silver ; so that now there is little in it worth seeing. The charity of their southern neighbours, however, is still gratefully remembered by the inhabitants. Don Jose Padr6s is a short, dark, phlegmatic-look- ing man, of about thirty years of age. I found him sitting without his jacket, which, it appeared, he had discarded, on account of the heat of the climate. The tables which stood in his sitting-room bore quite the character of an official owner, from the bundles of old papers which were piled upon them. Round the walls were suspended arithmetical tables of calculations and local distances ; and in one cor- ner of the room stood a small model of a boat, which he told me he had invented, for the purpose of carry- ing passengers from San Augostin de las Cu6vas to Mexico, by a new navigable canal, which he was about to propose to government to cut ! I now be- gan to think that I had fallen into company with a scientific man, whose talents I feared were thrown JPui: fa 27 Colbum . Zow£oruZ82{?. DON JOSE PADRES. 241 away in this retirement, and I soon found he was of the same opinion. His conversation ran upon astronomy, chemistry, physic, philosophy, ichthyology, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, together with a long enumeration of salts and acids, alkalis and minerals, and I know not what ! The stars he familiarly called by their Chris- tian and pagan names ; knew how meteors were formed, of what materials comets were made, and could calculate an eclipse. He knew, moreover, the virtues of all the herbs in the place, and of one in particular, which he said he had accidentally dis- covered in this manner : he had been eating a peach, which he pared, and not thinking the flavour good, he threw down the knife, and climbed the tree, in order to choose riper fruit. Having made his choice, he descended and picked up his knife ; but what was his astonishment to find, that upon touching the stone, the edge of the blade bent and turned as if it had been lead ! This he attributed to the properties of the plant upon which it had accidentally been thrown ! For this plant he made continual search, but could never meet with it, not even the one upon which his knife fell ! He supposes therefore that it is very rare ! ! He assui’ed me, however, that if the plant could be met with, it would be found to possess great medical virtues! But his great forte lay in what he called his “ fa- vourite Ichthyology.” And no sooner had he broached this subject, than he handed out his specimens of pearls and tortoise-shells ; the former carefully kept R 242 DON JOSE PADRES. in boxes with cotton. He was quite a new character; and I listened to him with that astonishment which the learned observe in their disciples with so much triumph, and consider as a just homage to superior talent. I was, in short, mute with surprise, like one who accidentally stumbles, and then discovers that he has fallen upon a rich gold mine ! It was for- tunate that he was not conjuror enough to penetrate my thoughts, as perhaps, could he have done so, his vanity might have been a little wounded. He was highly entertained with the impression which he thought he had made upon me, and like the young lady in the fairy-tale, he never opened his lips but a peaid fell from his mouth ! Independent of all this lore, he was a perfect man of business, understood politics, and assured me that the inhabitants had requested to be allowed to return him as their deputy to the General Congress, a situa- tion which I strongly recommended him to accept, as a duty which he owed no less to his country than to his own particular talents. He said that he was not satisfied with his present situation, and hoped soon to leave it. The govern- ment had lately sanctioned his proposal to remove the commandancy to La Paz, and as he intended shortly to carry the permission into effect, he request- ed that the Wolf might be detained for three weeks or a month, to take him and his suite to the new establishment. I assured him I should think both the brig and myself highly honoured by the prefer- ence ; but added, that I was convinced he was too LORETO. 243 much of a military man to be pleased that I should neglect my duty, by detaining the vessel, when it was necessary that she should depart immediately for the destination which I had already pointed out ; but that, if he could be ready to embark on the morning following, I should esteem it a great favour, that a gentleman of his extraordinary talents would allow me to give him a passage. He was not sufficiently clear in his judgment to perceive that I was playing the courtier, or he might not have thought it pleasing to do so. For a few weeks, he said, he must remain at Loreto, to arrange the public affairs ; and he per- fectly coincided with me in the impropriety of my delaying the vessel. I now made arrangements with him that no “ Interventor ” (officer of the customs) should be put on board the Wolf, as it would be attended with expenses to the government which there was no occasion to incur. After this I took my leave. Loreto stands in a valley of about two or three thousand feet wide, surrounded by wild and sterile mountains, of which that called “ La Giganta ” is the highest and least picturesque. There are two gar- dens in the place, in which the vine, peach, fig, quince, and date, are cultivated. A considerable quantity of wine is annually made, notwithstanding the fruit is common property to all the inhabitants. Peaches and pears are dried as well as figs; the dates are preserved ; and these fruits are afterwards exchanged for wheat and Indian corn, brought to the mission in small schooners from the port of Guaymas. R 2 LORETO. 244 l The situation of Loreto being in a valley of very limited extent, in which there is space only for the town and two gardens; and there being in conse- quence no possibility of raising either wheat or maize, the inhabitants are obliged to depend upon Sonora, almost for subsistence. Another circumstance ren- ders the tenure upon which they exist very precari- ous. I before observed, that the hills which sur- rounded the town, are chiefly composed of primitive rock, granite, and hard sand-stone, all intermingled, with scarcely any appearance of soil upon them. They are thus capable of absorbing but little mois- ture ; and during the heavy rains, which happily do not occur more frequently than once in five or six years, the rush of water through every part of the town, as it comes down the ravine, is so great, that instances have been known of some of the houses having been actually carried away. To prevent the recurrence of this danger, the for- mer Franciscan friars, many years ago, erected a stone wall, to break the force of the water, and give it a new direction towards the sea. In successive years the rains washed this barrier away ; and another was built, which by the returning floods was washed down also, and at present there is but a slight trace of its ever having existed. No attempts have been made to restore it ; and on some future day it may be expected that the inhabitants will be seen floating down the gulf! Although the natives are perfectly sensible of their perilous situation, the love of their dwellings is so great as to extinguish all COLOUR OF INHABITANTS. 245 fears for the future, and all desire to change their residence. So certain is it, that a familiarity with danger destroys the apprehension of it, and the love of home and even of inanimate objects, which revive the memory of the pleasing past, the days of infancy, and the boyish amusements of climbing trees or rocks, which furnished us with fruit, shelter, or exer- cise, are dwelt upon with delight, as still sacred to early affections, till by long habit this feeling seems identified with our very natures, and becomes indis- pensable to our happiness. The passions of men are always selfish, and this feeling is but a more refined self-love, however painful it may be to make the confession. As, however, the commandant was not a native of Loreto, it could not be supposed that he should sympathise with the natural feelings of its inhabi- tants; and he was therefore little desirous of parti- cipating in their dangers, which, with his great scientific knowledge, he had no difficulty in predicting. The inhabitants of Loreto are of a dingy, opaque, olive-green, which shows that there is no friendly mixture in the blood of the Spaniard and the Indian ; or it may be, that by degrees they are returning to the colour of the aborigines. They appear to be the same squalid, flabby, mixed race, which is observed in almost every part of the Mexican coasts. I did not see a good-looking person among them, always excepting the commandant and ci-devant deputy ! It is said that their morals are extremely loose, that the holy friars have their full share in the gene- 246 EXPORTS OF LORETO. ral corruption ; and, although marriage is not always dispensed with, it is generally considered by them as a superfluous ceremony. The war of the Yaquis has been felt even here, in consequence of there having been, for the last three months, no importation of corn; for, without the in- dustry of these Indians, no corn is raised in Sonora, and Loreto cannot be supplied. Dried figs are the substitute for bread, even at the table of the com- mandant. This food is said to be uncommonly heating, and that it gives rise to numberless com- plaints. There is one disease in particular, by which the greater part of the population of the Californias ax’e dreadfully afflicted, and which is said to have its origin in this fruit diet. The mortality which it is supposed to occasion is of serious extent. The population of Lorbto cannot exceed two hun- dred and fifty souls. The commandant is able to muster a force of about six soldiers, and there are two cannon, with open breeches, so that they might be expected to do equal execution among friends in the rear, and the enemy in front ! The annual im- portation of corn is about eight hundred or one thou- sand fanegas. The exportations consist of soap, preserved fruits,* wine, spirits, pearls, tortoise-shell, and salt ; f which latter article comes from a spring * One of the two gardens yields an annual profit of one thou- sand two hundred dollars. d The salt is taken from a lake on the Isla del Carmin ; and, although there is no inhabitant on the island, the Custom-house at Loreto exacts the duty of one real per fanega for its extrac- LIST OF KNOWN PEARL-BEDS. 247 on the north-eastern extremity of the Isla del Car- min, in front of the mission. The Placeres de perla (pearl-beds,) in the neigh- bourhood of Loreto, are the following : the south- west point of the Isla del Carmin, Puerto Balandra, Puerto Escondido, Arroyo Hondo, La Isla Coronada, Tierra Firme, San Bruno, La Pi6dra negada, and San Marcus. The four first are situated to the south, and the latter five to the northward of Lo- reto, at which place the Virgin and the custom-house receive their proportion of the pearl fishery, which for the last thirty years has not exceeded, as I am informed, the value of seventy dollars annually. There is only one road from Loreto to San Diego, (which is about three hundred and fifty leagues dis- tant to the north-west,) and the northern missions. It passes by the fore-named mountain of La Giganta, the pointed form of which inclines a little on one side, like the Pan de Azucar at Rio Janeiro, and towers like an angry genius above the other moun- tains in its vicinity. It is seen from a great dis- tance. The road ascends by the ravine till it reaches a very elevated spot on this very “ Giantess,” and it then descends to a depth below, which is frightfully horrible to the unpractised traveller, and at an angle extraordinarily acute. Scarcely do you begin to de- scend, before it becomes necessary to check the bri- tion ; and, to introduce it into any other Mexican port, a certi- ficate, signed by the Commandant, must be produced by the captain, or else the cargo is seized for attempting to defraud the government. RAPID DESCENT. 24a die of the well-taught mule, and by applying the lash at the same time, to oblige the animal to sit down on his haunches. Although trembling, he places his fore legs well forward at the same time, and. down slides the mule and traveller like a ship launched from a dry dock into the sea, until they come to a sort of insecure resting-place some yards lower down. After this, there will be a walk, and then another sliding place, until the mule rests safe- ly on the plain below. Do but conceive, kind reader, the sliding down, at several interruptions, to the depth of many thou- sand feet, by a road which is comparatively perpendi- cular. Were the mule not to rest on his haunches, and support its weight and gravitation, by the inge- nious contrivance of throwing forward his fore legs, both traveller and mule would be precipitated head- foremost into a valley of such depth, that its very sight turns the head giddy ; the soul, as it were, shrinks into itself, and the boldest imagination is ap- palled by the contemplation of a destruction which seems inevitable. Let the traveller who descends this road, and finds himself happily at the bottom, turn his view upwards to the hill over which he passed, and when he can scarcely give credit to what he sees and has escaped from, let him be thankful to the Author of Nature, for having provided him with an animal so surefooted as a mule ! The time occupied by the Correo from Loreto to San Diego, is one month, and I understood the whole road is miserably bad, and almost destitute of inha- LA PA Z. 249 bitants. The Commandant-general of the Californias resides at this latter place ; but by a strange anomaly, the commanding officer of lower California is sub- ject also to the orders of the Commandant-general of Sonora ! About one hundred and twenty leagues to the northward of Loreto is the mission of La Paz, which has the good harbour of Pichiluigo before it, in which, however, only small vessels winter, the water being shallow. In this harbour, it is said, there are some excellent pearl-beds. There is a considerable quantity of land in its neighbourhood, which produces fruit and vegetables of an excellent quality. Both native and mine gold is brought from the Real of San Antonio, about four leagues to the W. N. W. The metal, however, is not very abun- dant, nor is its quality very good. The inhabitants of La Paz are descendants chief- ly of English, American, and French sailors; and there is now an old English seaman, married, and living near it, who was with Lord Nelson in the ever-memorable battle of Trafalgar. Its population, including that of San Antonio, is about two thou- sand souls. Between the Isla del Carmin and la Paz is situated the island of San Pedro, upon which, I am told, gar- nets are found. I desired the supercargo of the Wolf to look for specimens of them at convenient times. On the 21st I quitted the Wolf to join the Bruja, a schooner of about twenty-five or thirty tons. Pre- 250 GULF OF MOLEXE. vious to my departure, I gave instructions to the supercargo respecting the employment of the brig on all the fisheries to the southward of Loreto. Hav- ing failed in our endeavours to procure divers, I gave directions that they should be sought for at La Paz. We took on board a sufficient supply of fresh water and vegetables, and weighed anchor together ; the brig steering to the southward, while I sailed in the Bruja, on a voyage of discovery ! On the day following I entered the gulf of Mol6xe, in which I had been told at Loreto there exists an excellent oyster-bank, which, upon its first disco- very, produced an immense quantity of pearls, but upon no future year could the bed be found ! There were in this gulf numbers of islands and little har- bours in which I anchored, as the little water the Bruja drew enabled me to do so without danger. Here we tried our drags, but brought nothing up ; a circumstance which induced me to become a diver, in order to ascertain, by personal investigation, the reason of their failure. Another strong motive urns our having on board only one diver, for reasons al- ready stated, and he a very bad one. If it be difficult to learn to swim, it is infinitely more so to dive. In my first attempts I could only descend about six feet, and was immediately obliged to rise again to the surface, but by degrees I got down to three or four fathoms ; at which depth the pressure of the water upon the ears is so great, that I can only compare it to a sharp-pointed iron instru- ment being violently forced into that organ. My AUTHOR BECOMES A DIVER. 251 stay under water, therefore, at this depth was ex- tremely short ; but as I had been assured, that so soon as the ears should burst, as it is technically called by the divers, there would he no difficulty in descending to any depth ; and wishing to become an accomplished diver, I determined to brave the ex- cessive pain, till the bursting should, as it were, libe- rate me from a kind of cord which limited my range downwards, in the same way that the ropes of a bal- loon confine the progress of that machine upwards. Accordingly, taking a leap from the bows of the boat, full of hope and resolution, with my fingers knit together over my head, the elbows straight, and keeping myself steadily in the inverse order of na- ture, namely, with my feet perpendicularly upwards, the impetus carried me down about four fathoms, when it became necessary to assist the descent by means of the hands and legs ; but, alas ! who can count upon the firmness of his resolution ? The change of temperature from warm to cold is most sensibly felt. Every fathom fills the imagination with some new idea of the dangerous folly of pene- trating farther into the silent dominions of reckless monsters, where the skulls of the dead make per- petual grimaces, and the yawning jaws of sharks and tintereros, or the death-embrace of the manta,* lie in wait for us. These impressions were augmented by the impossibility of the vision penetrating the twi- light by which I was surrounded, together with the * Manta, or Marrayos; see p. 237. 252 A NEW SENSATION. excruciating pain that I felt in my ears and eyes ; in short, my mind being assailed by a thousand incom- prehensible images, I ceased striking with my hands and legs ; I felt myself receding from the bottom ; the delightful thought of once more beholding the blue heavens above me got the better of every other reflection ; I involuntarily changed the position of my body, and, in the next instant, found myself once more on the surface. How did my bosom inflate with the rapid inspirations of my natural atmosphere, and a sensation of indescribable pleasure spread over every part of the body, as though the spirit was re- joicing at its liberation from its watery peril ! In fact, it was a new sensation which I cannot describe. I did not suffer it, however, to be of long duration, — once more I essayed with a more fixed determination. Again I felt myself gliding through the slippery water, which, from its density, gave one the idea of swimming through a thick jelly ; again I experienced the same change of temperature in the water as I descended ; and again the agonizing sen- sation in my ears and eyes made me waver. But now, reason and resolution urged me on, although every instant the pain increased as I descended ; and at the depth of six or seven fathoms, I felt a sensa- tion in my ears like that produced by the explosion of a gun ; at the same moment I lost all sense of pain, and afterwards reached the bottom, which I explored with a facility which I had thought unat- tainable. Unfortunately, I met with no oysters to repay me for my perseverance ; and as I found myself BUOYANCY OF THE WATER. 253 exhausted for want of air, I seized hold of a stone to prove that I had reached the bottom at eight fathoms water, and rose to the top with a triumph as great as if I had obtained a treasure. I no sooner found myself on the surface than I be- came sensible of what had happened to my ears, eyes, and mouth ; I was literally bleeding from each of these, though wholly unconscious of it. But now was the greatest danger in diving, as the sharks, mantas, and tintereros, have an astonishingly quick scent for blood. However, I was too much pleased with my success to attend to the advice of the diver, and I continued the practice till I had collected a consider- able number of shells, out of which I hoped to reap a rich harvest. But although constancy has a great deal to do with success, it will not command it ! Six very small pearls were all that the large number of shells produced, although many of the oysters were large, and evidently of considerable age ; but, like myself, they were “ quite old enough to be better.” The oyster secures itself so firmly to the rocks by its beard, that it requires no little force to tear it away ; and as its external surface is full of sharp points, the hands are soon severely cut by them. The effect of the buoyancy of the water is also curi- ous. At the depth of seven or eight fathoms, it re- quires exertion to keep down ; and if you then at- tempt to lay hold on a rock with the hands, you find yourself as it were suspended , so that if you let go your hold you will immediately tumble upwards ! I remember, the first oyster I ever met with was at the 254 LOCOMOTION OF THE OYSTER. depth of four fathoms only ; my head was almost touching it ; and forgetting, in my pleasure, to strike out with my legs, as I stretched forward my hand to catch hold of the prize, to my astonishment, the oyster slipped from my grasp, and I found myself nearly at the surface of the water the next instant, so that I had all my labour for nothing. So firmly does the oyster fix himself to the rock, that, in order to tear him away, it is necessary to get “ a purchase” upon him, by placing the feet on the bottom. The excessive difficulty of doing this is incredible : it requires the muscular strength of the whole body to overcome the resistance of the water’s buoyancy. I have no doubt that, by means of its long beard, the oyster has the power of loco- motion, and that it changes its situation according to its pleasure or convenience. One principal object of inquiry, however, was ob- tained ; namely, the true situation of the shells un- der water. I found that I had been in a complete error in supposing them formed in beds ; that is, in heaps, as the word bed would seem to indicate. With this impression I left England, and continued in it till I had now convinced myself, by actual in- vestigation, of the error into which I had been led by every body with whom I had conversed on the subject. Indeed, a moment’s reflection would have pointed out the impossibility of the oysters being piled in heaps together in this gulf. This fish always seeks for tranquillity, which it could never find in situations exposed to currents, and PERCEPTION OF OBJECTS. 255 motion occasioned by the undulations of the water. I always found them in sheltered bays, the bottoms of which were covered with large rocks. This brings me to consider the reason, why a diving-bell, at least in the gulf of California, can never be profitably employed. After reaching the bottom, if the greater surface be considered bottom, there are frequently found chasms in the rock be- low, which extend from one to two, or even three fathoms lower. It is down these apertures that the diver may most generally expect to meet with oysters, which even here conceal themselves in the cavities of the rock ; and as the power of vision fails in so dense a medium, particularly if the depth be considerable, and the surface rough, the diver is obliged to insert not his hand only, but even his head, into every hole and corner, like a person groping about in the dark ; holding on, the while, by the points of the rock, to prevent his rising to the top, in consequence of the water’s buoyancy, at the depth, for example, of seven or eight fathoms, be- yond which I cannot speak from experience. The perception of objects under 'water at this depth is very indistinct, and their magnitude is augmented, so that a very small shell appears of large dimensions, and the diver is frequently morti- fied by the discovery of the mistake when he rises. It is strange that the deception should not be de- tected by the touch ; but it would appear, that in the same way as the eyes measure the capacity of the stomach, so also do they convey to the hands a sort 256 diver’s mode of defence. of conviction that the apparent is the true size ; so that these organs take pleasure in mutually deluding each other ! The fissures in the rocks, in these sub-marine situ- ations, do not frequently exceed ten inches or a foot ; so that, in descending, the back, chest, knees, and heels, are sometimes dreadfully lacerated. If, then, not even a shark could follow a diver in these situa- tions, how is it possible that a diving-bell, which is considerably broader, should be able to do so ? The idea that it could, is only to be entertained by a person as grossly ignorant of the circumstance as I was be- fore I convinced myself of the truth. In fact, it might be said, that the men in a diving-bell would remain suspended, half-way between hopes and reali- zation, and would feel, as I sometimes did when I was crawling about the bottom, “ like a fish out of water,” — an odd expression, by the by, for a fellow eight fathoms deep ! I am convinced that there is no stimulant so great as hope. Under its influence, the diver is in- sensible to danger, although he see himself surround- ed by sharks of prodigious magnitude. Armed with his short stick,*' he considers the invasion of so for- * This stick is about nine inches long, and is pointed at both ends. The diver grasps it in the middle, and when at- tacked by a shark, he thrusts it into the monster’s expanded jaws, in such a position, that, in attempting to seize his victim, the jaws close upon the two sharp points ; thus secured, he can do no mischief, but swims away with his martyrdom ; the diver rises, and seeks a new weapon of defence. INFLUENCE OF HOPE. 257 midable an enemy’s domains as unworthy of a moment’s hesitation. Anxious to grasp the prize, he pays little regard to the price of its attainment, which he no sooner possesses, than he is ready to light the stoutest of the finny race. I have myself descended, when the horizon was filled with the projecting fins of sharks rising above the surface of the water ; and although armed only in the way I have described, I thought myself perfectly se- cure from molestation ; notwithstanding they were swimming round me in all directions, at not a greater distance than a few fathoms, I continued my pursuits with the greatest sang-froid. I should no more be capable, in my cool moments of reflection, of braving this inconceivably horrible danger, where I might have been mangled and torn to pieces by one of these implacable monsters, than of entering the tiger’s den before his breakfast, at Exeter Change. But when the passions are concentrated into one point, though that point be on the verge of eternity, hope still attends us. On these occa- sions how sensibly have I felt, and how often repeated the beautiful lines of the enraptured poet : “ methinks it were an easy leap To pluck bright honour from the pale-faced deep.” Don Pablo Ochou, who was for many years a superintendent of the fishery, and himself a most expert diver, gave me the following account of one of his watery adventures : The Placer de la Pi6dra negada, which is near s l 258 A SUBMARINE ADVENTURE. Lor6to, was supposed to have quantities of very large pearl-oysters round it — a supposition which was at once confirmed by the great difficulty of finding this sunken rock. Don Pablo, however, succeeded in sounding it, and, in search of specimens of the largest and oldest shells, dived down in eleven fa- thoms water. The rock is not above one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards in circumference, and our adventurer swam round and examined it in all directions, but without meeting any inducement to prolong his stay. Accordingly, being satisfied that there were no oysters, he thought of ascending to the surface of the water ; but first he cast a look upwards, as all divers are obliged to do, who hope to avoid the hungry jaws of a monster. If the coast is clear, they may then rise without apprehension. Don Pablo, however, when he cast a hasty glance upwards, found that a tinter6ro had taken a station about three or four yards immediately above him, and, most probably, had been watching during the whole time that he had been down. A double- pointed stick is a useless weapon against a tinterero, as its mouth is of such enormous dimensions, that both man and stick would be swallowed together. He, therefore, felt himself rather nervous , as his re- treat was now completely intercepted. But, under water, time is too great an object to be spent in re- flection, and therefore he swam round to another part of the rock, hoping by this means to avoid the vigilance of his persecutor. What was his dismay, when he again looked up, to find the pertinacious A SUBMARINE ADVENTURE. 259 tinter6ro still hovering over him, as a hawk would follow a bird. He described him as having large, round, and inflamed eyes, apparently just ready to dart from their sockets with eagerness, and a mouth (at the recollection of which he still shuddered) that was continually opening and shutting, as if the monster was already, in imagination, devouring his victim, or, at least, that the contemplation of his prey imparted a foretaste of the gout ! Two alternatives now presented themselves to the mind of Don Pablo : one, to suffer himself to be drown- ed — the other, to be eaten. Pie had already been un- der water so considerable a time, that he found it im- possible any longer to retain his breath, and was on the point of giving himself up for lost, with as much philosophy as he possessed. But what is dearer than life ? The invention of man is seldom at a loss to find expedients for its preservation in cases of great extremity. On a sudden he recollected, that on one side of the rock, he had observed a sandy spot, and to this he swam with all imaginable speed ; his attentive friend still watching his movements, and keeping a measured pace with him. As soon as he reached the spot, he commenced stirring it with his pointed stick, in such a way that the fine particles rose, and rendered the water per- fectly turbid, so that he could not see the monster or the monster him. Availing himself of the cloud , by which himself and the tinterero were enveloped, he swam very far out in a trans vertical direction, and reached the surface in safety, although com- s 2 260 A SUBMARINE ADVENTURE. pletely exhausted. Fortunately, he rose close to one of the boats ; and those who were within, seeing him in such a state, and knowing that an enemy must have been persecuting him, and that, by some arti- fice, he had saved his life, jumped overboard, as is their common practice in such cases, to frighten the creature away by splashing in the water; and Don Pablo was taken into the boat more dead than alive. I diligently investigated every part of the gulf of Molexe, without having been able to discover the “ Placer,” so highly spoken of ; and I am convinced that it only exists in the fertile imagination of those who love to create a wonder, where it can never be met with. The depth of water in the gulf varies consider- ably. There are numerous shoals, and in no part is there good holding-ground ; but a small vessel might be lashed alongside some of the numerous islands with perfect safety. 261 CHAPTER XI. A nocturnal fight with a lion. — An ebbing and flowing well. — The Depoa tree. — Singular hunts. — Quit the Gulf of Molexe, and arrive at the Mission. — The harbour. — A curious friar. — State of the Indians. — Advantages of equality. — A visit. — A tottering cavalcade. — Delicate attentions. — Leave Mo- lexe. — Island of San Marcus. — Wild goats. — Talc. — The islands of Sal si Puedes. — Arrive at the Island of Tiburow. — A singular cure. — A delicate artist. — Fresh-water. — Ghosts. A NUMBER of lions are met with among the hills of California, and they are said to be very ferocious. A former commandant of this province, in the year 1821, was travelling near the gulf of Molexe, the western side of which passes the road from San Diego, whence he had come ; and finding it impos- sible, from the lateness of the hour, to reach Lor6to before morning, he resolved upon sleeping in one of the valleys near the shore. His two sons, youths of sixteen and eighteen years of age, accompanied him. The father, being apprehensive of lions, which he knew to be plentiful among the mountains, slept 262 A REMARKABLE WELL. with a son on either side of him, charitably suppos- ing, that if one of these animals should approach the party during the night, he would certainly at- tack the person sleeping on the outside. About midnight, a wandering lion found out the retreat of the trio, and, without his approach being perceived, he leaped upon the father, in whose body he inserted his teeth and claws, and with mane and tail erect, proceeded forthwith to devour him. The two boys, moved by the cries and sufferings of their parent, grappled the lion manfully, who finding his prized contested, became furious : the combat was most bloody. After being dreadfully lacerated, the two brave youths succeeded, with a small knife, in killing their ferocious enemy, but, unhappily for them, not soon enough to save their father; and the af- flicted boys were left to lament his death and their own severe wounds. They both, with difficulty, sur- vived ; and are, I understand, still living in Califor- nia, although dreadful objects — the features of one of them being nearly obliterated. There is on the western coast a singular well of fresh water, rising and falling with the tide, which is here about eighteen inches. From this singula- rity, I was induced to examine it more particularly. I ascertained that there was a communication be- tween the mountain and the well, which is merely a hole of about twelve inches diameter, and of the same depth, situated close to high-water mark. It is naturally formed, and is a great accommodation to travellers, being the only fresh water between the arrival of a traveller. 263 missions of Molexe and Lor6to ; so that it serves as a sort of half-way -house. Its rise and fall depend upon the elevation of the sea, which, when it ebbs, allows the fresh water (which is of excellent quality) to filter through the porous sand-stone in which the well is formed. During the time I was making this investigation, a traveller arrived, and said, he meant to pass the night by the side of the spring ; and as he appeared an intelligent sort of a man, I entered into conver- sation with him : speaking of the well, he said it had existed, he believed, as long as the mountain itself. As soon as he had taken the saddle from his mule, I observed him to climb a tree called Depoa ; the stem of which is green, and at this season of the year it has no leaves, except a sort of wiry fibre, of the same colour as the stem. From this tree he cut a number of branches; these he after- wards placed before the mule, which presently be- gan to eat them. I inquired why he did not look for dry grass in preference ; his reply contained a sort of admonition. “ Look round these mountains,” said he, “ and tell me if your question is not an- swered.’’ The hills were in fact as bare as the ab- sence of grass could make them. “ But,” I rejoined, “ is there no grass in any of the neighbouring ravines ?” “No more than you see here ; in this country we never stop for the night, except we arrive at a tree of this description, of the fine branches of which our cattle are very fond ; they grow fat upon them, and 264 SINGULAR HUNTS. even prefer them to grass.” The mule supped upon it with apparent satisfaction. I inquired about pearls ; but he could only repeat the stories with which the reader has been already made acquainted. I in- quired also whether there were any wild cattle among the mountains. He told me that there were, and that they were hunted, by people of the missions, for their fat, which they converted into soap, and afterwards sold at Loreto. There is something romantic in these hunts : and as they are proofs of the determined bravery of the natives, it would be unpardonable to pass them over in silence. From the mountainous state of the coun- try, it may be supposed that there are likewise an infinity of canadas, which afford shelter to the wild cattle, and furnish them with food. The huntsman is always mounted on a strong, bold, and well-trained horse. As soon as he catches sight of a wild bull, the chase commences, and he follows it “through bush and briar,” leaping up and down precipices of three or four feet, and passes at full speed over a country which, for unevenness, has scarcely any parallel. Were it not for a jacket and trowsers of tanned hide, the flesh would probably be torn from the bones by the thorny branches of the mesquite (a thick bush). The chief object of the huntsman is, never to lose sight of the bull ; and the horse is always left to take care of his own and of his mas- ter’s neck. It never happens that the chase is of any long continuance, as the bull usually takes to the nearest Canada. This ravine he follows, through all SKILL OF THE HUNTER. 265 its ruggedness, at the height of his speed, stumbling, and even rolling along, till its extreme narrowness renders farther progress impossible. No sooner does the huntsman, who is usually not far behind, see the dilemma of the bull, than he dis- mounts, and rapidly taking off his long leathern jacket, and drawing his knife from the side of his right knee, where it had till now been confined by the band which fastens the leathern protectors of his legs, called “ botas,” he manfully advances towards the animal, who, when he sees his adversary ap- proach, turns round, and makes a furious attempt to destroy him with his horns. This the sportsman, assisted by his coat, evades with a dexterity truly wonderful. .A nd now commences a most bloody fight. Spurred up to his utmost fury by the wounds which he is continually receiving from his adversary, the efforts of the bull are tremendous; but the huntsman avoids all his thrusts, and upon each occasion inflicts a fresh wound. There is here no crying “ craven,” one or other of the combatants must inevitably perish. The carrion crow, and other carnivorous birds, who always attend the huntsmen, from the period when the affray commences, set up their horrid croaking, so that the horrors of the fight would be very consi- derably increased, did the occupation of the hunter permit him to reflect that these birds will eventually feed on the dead carcase of either man or beast ! The conflict seldom lasts longer than a quarter of an hour ; sometimes it is terminated in a few minutes, if the hunter makes a successful stab ; and when the bull 266 DANGERS DISREGARDED. has lost a great quantity of blood, his head sinks for want of strength to support it, his huge body begins to totter, and, at last, down he drops on his fore-legs, as if praying for mercy, which his relentless conquer- or refusing to grant, gives him the coup-de-grace, ending the fight and the misery of the poor brute together. But not always does the hunter come off victorious. From childhood trained up to the desperate occupa- tion, he cannot live, or reflect, as other men do ; and few of them die a natural death. When engaged in the chase, no human eye, besides his own, beholds the combat, and if he fall a victim to his temerity, there is no kind friend at hand to close his eyes, or to bear the fatal tidings to his family. When ano- ther fight takes place, perhaps in the same spot, which is more happy in its results, the clean-picked bones of the departed hunter are, for the first time, discovered by the more dexterous or more fortunate combatant, whitening in the sun ! Yet, callous to this species of danger, which with greedy anxiety he courts, these frequent spectacles of the fate which has befallen a former companion, perhaps a relative or a friend, and which will probably one day be his own, he looks at with indifference ; perhaps scorning their want of skill. He coolly proceeds with his work of skinning the fallen bull and collecting his fat, which having done, he either goes in search of fresh adventures, or returns to his house, where he recounts his deeds to his family, and “ fights his bat- MISSION OF MOLEXE. 267 ties o’er again,” to their infinite delight and enter- tainment. There is no accounting for tastes, and, methinks, this is an extraordinary one. But, like every other which produces a great deal of mental excitement, I make no doubt that it has its delights. But, for my own part, I can fancy no pleasure in being trans- fixed, or even thrown twenty yards high, by a pair of monstrous horns. The hunter also chases lions as well as bulls ; and it may be said that his whole life is consumed in passing out of one danger into another. The younger branches of the family are trained up in the same way, and delight in it as much as did their grand- sires. Having now sufficiently examined every part of the gulf of Mol6xe, and laid down the different islands and soundings in my map, I determined to make researches elsewhere, and accordingly, on the 26th July, we weighed anchor, and left the bay, pro- ceeding afterwards along the eastern coast of Cali- fornia to the north-west. In the afternoon we arrived off the mission of Molexe, which can only be dis- cerned from the sea by a small hill on the coast, called Sombrerito, from its resemblance to a hat. The entrance into the harbour is here very difficult, and it was only from the smallness of the Bruja that I ventured it. The coast is whitened with surf, and the shallow water extends about two miles from the shore. Being abreast of Sombrerito, with the 268 APPROACH OF THE INDIANS. wind easterly, we bore up, and stood directly for the coast, with our head about a quarter of a point to the southward of that hill, in order to avoid a reef of rocks that runs off from it for some distance. When within a hundred and fifty yards of the shore, Som- brerito then bearing off us N. N. W., and being in- shore of the reef, we hauled up, and stood for the centre of the hill, till within thirty-five yards of it, when we dropped our anchor, and ran out warps to the shore on both sides of us, to prevent the vessel from either drifting or swinging, for which there is no room. The water on the bar is so shallow, that we touch- ed twice in going over it ; but as it was composed of only soft sand, the vessel received no injury, although it blew fresh from the eastward, with a heavy swell on the shore. In the situation where we ultimately moored, there are three fathoms close by the hill, and it is well sheltered from wind and sea. There is a small rivulet here, extending above the mission, which is at the distance of two leagues from the coast. From the sea, the hill of Sombrerito hides all appearance of the ravine ; but from the shore, the date, olive, and peach-trees, as well as planta- tions of vines and of maize, present a cheerful show of verdure by no means common in Lower California. About the distance of a league from the mouth of the rivulet, the water is fresh, and I took advantage of it to re-fill our empty casks. We had scarcely been at anchor an hour, when we observed people approaching. They were Indians, AN INVITATION. 269 who, supposing that our object in coming here was to pay a visit to the mission, had brought horses. I availed myself of the opportunity, and took my ser- vant with me. The road, which lies along the ravine, at only a small distance from the rivulet, passes through crops of maize and vineyards, and is toler- ably sheltered from the sun a great part of the way by the imperfect shade of the date-tree, which grows to a considerable size. The journey is performed in half an hour. The houses are small, in number about forty, and, like the church, (which stands on a little mound,) are whitewashed. The first person whom I saw on my arrival, was a little, sharp-looking, humpbacked old man, with small grey eyes, and a long pointed nose. He had on a sort of white apron, which extended from his neck, and covered his knees, leaving his arms exposed as high as the elbows, to which joint the sleeves of his shirt had been rolled. I took him to be a shoe- maker, as he sat at the door of his house on a three- legged wooden stool. As I approached, he rose from his seat, and ad- vancing, saluted me with “ Que s6a usted bien ve- nida,” (you are welcome,) — and immediately invited me to alight from my horse. This I did, and was ushered into a tolerably large room, with a brick- floor, table, two arm-chairs, three young ladies, a child of about ten years old, and an Indian cook. I was requested to take a seat ; and my astonishment was not small at learning, that the person from whom I was about to receive hospitality, was the holy friar 270 A CURIOUS FRIAR. of the mission ! I found him excessively inquisitive ; he asked a thousand questions in an instant, and answered them all himself. He talked a great deal about Mexico, and expressed serious apprehensions that the residence of so many English there (a per- mission, he thought, by no means wise on the part of either the church or the government,) might be pro- ductive of great mischief, inasmuch as the example of such heretics might corrupt the opinions of the inhabitants, and perhaps lead to the introduction of protest autism ^ which he held to be a new religion, and was pleased to call it a e< Jewish paganism ,” an invention of the “ Diablo,’’ to make proselytes for his burning empire ! Here he devoutly crossed himself, and repeated an Ave Maria, after which he worked himself up into a paroxysm of holy indignation ; suspecting perhaps that he had broached a subject which might infect him with a species of contamination, so he re- solved to set his satanic majesty at defiance, by giv- ing utterance to the exclamation of “ Jesus, Maria y Jose !” at the same time making the sign of the cross with his thumb over every part of his body, an example which was instantly followed by the gentle handmaids who had hitherto been preparing the table for dinner. When this ceremony was over, I increased the padre’s agitation tenfold by telling him, that a bill in favour of religious toleration had passed the Ge- neral Congress ; a circumstance which I had heard in Guay mas. The effect of this information upon ADVANTAGES OF SEAMANSHIP. 271 his nerves was as sudden and violent as a powerful shock from a galvanic battery. His mouth, which had been for some time moving in silent prayer, now remained half open. His hand, which before was so busily occupied in the formation of crosses, was now suspended from the complete formation of the last ; and sinking down in his arm-chair, which creaked with the violent intrusion, he supported his head with both hands ; and it was some time before he could sufficiently collect his scattered ideas, to ask if he had heard aright ? How long his mental suffer- ings might have lasted, I know not ; but fortunately the dinner was now smoking on the table, and the bottle occupying its usual station to the dexter hand of his reverence, he poured out a glass of spirits, which he mechanically swallowed, and soon to a certain degree recovered his presence of mind. As soon as dinner was over, he began to pour out the vial of his wrath against all Protestant Jews , whether natives of England, or African Negroes ! “Well, but Padre,” said I, “it does not much signify, since we are good sailors.” — “ Ah ! — but that will not save you.” — “ It is reported,” I re- plied, “ (among Spanish sailors,) that Spaniards, Italians, and Portuguese, go to heaven with a fair wind, the French with difficulty, on a bowline, but that the English have the wind dead in their teeth : there is therefore some advantage in being good seamen.” And thus the argument ended. He afford- ed me, however, a great deal of amusement. In this mission, there is a narrow strip of land, 272 STATE OF THE INDIANS. three leagues in length, capable of cultivation, out of which, two leagues and a half belong exclusively to the friar. It is melancholy to reflect upon the state of the poor Indians of this place. Born, as they are, to follow the track of their forefathers, in the tyrannical service of the friars, their spirit is broken, and their mental energies subdued, while those of the body are exerted for the use of the padres. They lend their labours with sullen obedi- ence, only to be accounted for by their terrors of church discipline, which, when exerted by the friar, might reduce them and their families to starvation. Their feelings, if they have any, are made subservient, in all things, to the padre’s will, who, it is said, exer- cises his authority with brutal severity. Thus they drag on an existence no less painful to themselves than degrading to human nature ! These observa- tions are applicable not only to Molexe and Loreto, but, as I have been assured by some very intelligent individuals of Sonora, who for many years traded in California, to the rest of the missions. They are now suffering from a new species of tyranny, respecting the partition of certain lands on which they had hitherto been permitted to graze their cattle. A surveyor was lately sent here from Loreto to arrange this business. He suffered him- self, however, to be bribed with cows and mules by the wdiite inhabitants of Guardalupe, a mission about eight leagues distant, to adjudge these lands to them, which he very liberally did; and thus are the im- becile Indians left in a state of misery hard to be / LA MADALENA. 273 believed, although they have been declared free citizens of the Republic. Such an equality as this I believe few would envy ! The padre is said to be a great preacher of moral- ity, chiefly with a view, as slander asserts, to oblige the Indian inhabitants to marry. For the perform- ance of this ceremony he charges very moderately, — only one hundred and fifty dollars ! This sum, how- ever, they cannot pay, except by manual labour, fruit, &c. In this way the friar may be said to drain both the earth and the natives of their sub- stance ! After dinner, I took leave of the padre, who, by the way, is a native of Spain. But, first, I gave him an invitation to pay a visit on the following day to the Bruja, which he was not slow in accepting. The mission of Santa Rosalia de Moiexe was esta- blished in the year 1700, by the Marquess de Villa Puente, as it is supposed, and its distance from Lo- rdto is about forty-five leagues. It produces wine, spirits, and soap, which are exported chiefly from the capita] ; besides grapes, dates, figs, and olives, all of good quality. These form the principal branches of its commerce, which is almost wholly engrossed by the padre, who is said to have hoarded up a consi- derable quantity of gold and pearls. About six or eight leagues from Moiexe is the mission of La Madal6na, established about the same period as the former ; but by whom is not known. Its productions are the same as those of the Moiexe • but the quality of the spirits which are made from T 274 * A VISIT. the mezcal, growing wild about the mountains in its neighbourhood, is said to be the best of any made in Lower California. Its population is about equal to that of Lor6to. v On the 27th, I had the honour of entertaining the padre, who came attended by the amiable compa- nions whom I had seen in his house on my arrival there. He was as talkative as he had been on our first acquaintance, but indulged much less in his fa- vourite polemics. This I chiefly attributed to a few glasses of Spanish cogniac, which he praised in such a way as gave me to understand that he expected to take, at least, a bottle home with him. He said, he considered spirits to be very superior to wine, which he called insipid stuff, and only good for women. He offered himself, moreover, to be a pur- chaser of all our crockery ware, which, he observed, we might easily replace at Guaymas. When he found that this reasoning failed of its desired effect, he became no less importunate to pur- chase shirts, trowsers, hats, and, in fact, every thing which caught his wandering eye. Our style of cook- ery and our viands, which were merely salt beef, bis- cuit, and beans, were considered dainties too trifling for his reverence’s stomach ; and, as he frequently complained of a coldness in that department, he had recourse so often to the bottle, that in proportion as his tongue became thicker and thicker after each glass, his loquacity gradually subsided into a sort of splutter ; and not being able, in consequence, to arti- culate whole words, by cutting short the last sylla- A TOTT EltING CAVALCADE. 275 ble, he composed a sort of jargon, which no sober person could well understand. In the mean time, the young ladies had not been idle. They had become exceedingly merry, — ap- pearing to have gained the faculty of speech, in pro- portion as the friar had lost it ; although his eyes glistened, and his mouth widened, from the effects of a fixed grin which usurped the place of the rigid severity I had seen in his countenance, while de- nouncing wrath against protestant heretics. He amused himself too by singing ; which, however, he did not commence until he had removed his hood and gown, by which he appeared to have been re- strained within certain limits of merriment ; but, no sooner was this barrier removed, and consigned to the guardianship of one of the said young ladies, than he showed us of what frolicsome materials he was made. As it grew late. I began to fear the party might wish to remain on board all night, and was about to make a proposal to take them up in the boat as far as it could go, towards the town, when the two horses of his reverence appeared on the beach. An- other difficulty now presented itself, which was, how the friar should mount, — and, if he rode one horse, how the ladies, who were three in number, were to be conveyed on the other. But this he himself ar- ranged, more by signs than words. We got him on ; and as he insisted that a lady should mount the same animal, we fixed them both together, as well as we could, and the tottering cavalcade moved forward T 2 276 DELICATE ATTENTIONS. with a rapidity which corresponded more with the desire of the horses to return to their homes, than suited the safety or comfort of their riders. As I had hopes of being able to procure two or three divers from La Madal6na, I was obliged to re- main at our present anchorage until the following morning, when an answer would be finally given by the alcalde, to whom I had sent a letter on the subject. Sunday. — Went up to Molexe, and as there was no comfortable house at which I could put up, ex- cept the friar’s, I proceeded thither. The hour of mass is usually seven in the morning, and I expected to have found the padre in the act of performing his clerical duties : but this was not the case. I was in- formed he had met with an accident ; but I found him seated by the side of the young lady whom he had gallantly escorted home the preceding even- ing, and to whom he was now administering the kind offices of consolation ! It appears that, on their way from the vessel, the rapidity with which their horse had travelled, destroyed the equilibrium of his reverence and his partner; and they had not proceeded more than half a mile, before down came the church to the ground, and with it the fair votary, who re- ceived a contusion on the nasal promontory, which ended in a pair of black eyes. The friar, on the contrary, owing to his being so like a ball in figure, merely rolled away from the horse’s legs, and, fortu- nately for the mission, received no greater injury ISLAND OF SAN MARCUS. 277 than the destruction of the bottle of liquor, which, before he left us, he had taken care to secure ! Not having been successful in my search for di- vers, I determined to proceed to sea. The wind was still dead upon the shore ; and as it was not possible to attempt taking the vessel out through the chan- nel, without her being inevitably driven on to the beach, I sent the boat ahead with a rope, and we succeeded in towing the Bruja through the midst of the rocks, which were perfectly distinguishable at in- tervals by the heave and fall of the waves, which enabled us to avoid them. Having got fairly outside of them, we clapped on sail, shaped our course along- shore, and in two hours’ time went through the pas- sage formed on the left by the low point of Santa Ines, and on the right by the island named after the same saint, carrying four and five fathoms water. Having doubled the point, we came to anchor on the south-west side of the island of San Marcus, round which I had been given to understand pearls had been formerly fished. We found, however, only a few unproductive shells. On this island there are numbers of wild goats, and I sent the captain and a part of the crew to hunt them. Availing myself of the same opportunity, I went on shore on the conti- nent in front. At the distance of two leagues from the coast is the mission of San Ignacio, established in the year 1725. I hoped to have found here at least two or three divers ; but in this I was disappointed. It is 278 WILD GOATS. TALC. a wretched place, and the inhabitants seem to belong more to the next world than to this. I have heard, that about a dozen or fourteen leagues to the north- west, on one of the hills called las tres Virgenes, (the three virgins) there is an exhausted volcano, which, however, still produces sulphur. These three hills extend as far as the gulf, where they end in a bluff point named after them. When I returned on board, I found that the hunt- ers had caught four goats, the flesh of which they were busily salting down. We had only thirty days’ provisions, and I thought this a good as well as cheap opportunity of adding to our present stock. The day following, I again sent the same party to hunt, while I investigated the several bays and rocks of the island, where I found plenty of very large cray-fish, but only a few oysters, which were good for nothing. On the island of San Marcus there is abundance of talc, a soft marble, and pumice-stone of excellent quality. There are two kinds of the latter, white and yellow ; but only the former is good. One of the hills is almost entirely composed of talc. The goats are large and fat. The original stock was brought by divers, formerly frequenting the gulf of Mol6xe, and the coast hereabouts ; and as there is fresh water at the northern extremity of this island, the animals have done well, and increased in number considerably. There are also plenty of snakes, but who brought them I did not hear. On the 31st we sailed with the light airs of what is called the sea-breeze, from the south-east. We ISLANDS OF SAL SI PUEDES. 279 passed Cape las Vlrgenes at midnight, and continued running down the coast, during the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of August, in the hope of falling in with har- bours ; but this iron-bound coast affords no shelter of any kind. In the afternoon of this last day, about four, p. m., we got abreast of a small bay, in which, on account of the severity of the weather, we anchor- ed, although it is open to every wind, except the one which was now blowing. This I have named Thomson’s bay. Towards midnight it grew calm. 4th. — At six, a. M., we weighed anchor, and stood along-shore with a light breeze, which af- terwards changed to the north-west, and carried us between the islands called “ Sal si Puedes,” (get back if you can). A bout five, P. M., the wind died away, and w r e remained drifting with the current, w r hich here runs strong, sometimes to the south-east, and sometimes in the opposite direction ; and, being im- mediately in front of one of the islands, I went on shore to examine it. I found it about seven miles in circumference, and very mountainous. The hills are chiefly composed of a red stone, which has very much the appearance of cinnabar. We landed on a small sandy bay, on which twenty or thirty seals were basking in the sun . We approached with caution, having clubs in our hands; and falling suddenly upon them, made an at- tack ; but they were too active for us, and escaped with only a few^ parting blows. We therefore went in search of others, whose yet undisturbed slumbers might give us an opportunity of retrieving our ere- 280 ISLAND OF TIBUROW. dit. We were not kept long in suspense ; and steal- ing upon these with more care and activity, we suc- ceeded in killing twelve of them. A seal is a for- midable animal to attack, both on account of his nimbleness and his teeth. The instant they are awakened, they open their enormous mouths in a most threatening manner, and, if closely attacked, retreat backwards, unless the assailants happen to be between them and the sea, in which case they rush forward without any ceremony, and endeavour either to destroy their enemy, or, at least, to secure their retreat. Their first salutation is a roaring noise, which awakens their companions; this is followed by a rush towards the sea. It now becomes neces- sary to cut off the retreat, and endeavour to hit the animal on the nose, which stuns him, and a few blows more on the head are sufficient to kill him. It was my object to get their skins, supposing them to be of the double fur, as well as to obtain oil from their fat. The latter object we accomplished; but as their skins were not of fur, we threw them away as useless. This island has no name attach- ed to it in any of the maps ; I therefore, thought myself justified in calling it Seal Island, in comme- moration of our achievements. 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th. — We had calms, with oc- casional light winds. The current is, apparently, always strong. But on the 9th we got aslant of wind, which carried us up to the north-west end of Tiburow island, where we came to an anchor in three fathoms water. AN EXCHANGE OF TRESENTS. 281 The reader will recollect the ferocious character attributed to these Indians, and will not therefore be surprised that I ordered our two cannons to be loaded with grape and canister, as well as our small arms to be got in readiness. We had on board a musket, sword, and pike for each person, together with two pair of pistols ; one for the captain, the other for myself. We had scarcely anchored, before I observed, with the spy-glass, two Indians, who were making signals to us. I therefore sent a boat to bring them on board, having previously pointed our guns to the spot, in case of treachery. None, however, was at- tempted ; and, presently afterwards, the boat re- turned with the Indians. One of them, who wore a straw hat, ornamented with shells, and an eagle’s feather ; a red baise shirt, and a blanket round his legs ; spoke Spanish, and called himself the “ Capi- tan Chico.” He said his object in coming on board, was to ask the question, “ Do you come for peace or war?” and being answered “ For peace,” his object was to procure medical assistance for the wife of the “ Capitan Grande and he had brought with him a small quantity of tortoise-shell, and three baskets curiously made, as a present. “ The great Captain,” he said, “ would give all the tortoise-shell he pos- sessed for the recovery of his wife.” I took the presents, giving him, in return, tobacco, and some other trifles ; and desiring the captain to detain them both on board as hostages, and also to keep a sharp look-out upon the shore, I embarked in 282 A CHARM FOR the boat, and proceeded, in a medical capacity, to see the patient. I landed on a sandy beach, and at the distance of about twenty-five yards from the shore, I found a hut, constructed of four perpendicu- lar stumps, which supported a quantity of bushes, and bones of the tortoise, serving as a shade to the inhabitants beneath. Suspended to the posts, were skins of the eagle, bows and arrows ; the four sides being completely open to the winds. The height of this hut was about four feet, and beneath it were lying women and children, and one man. There was not one amongst them who spoke Spanish ; but the moans of a young woman, who was lying in the sand, surrounded by three or four old hags, soon led me to discover the patient. I had the greatest difficulty in finding out what was her com- plaint, owing to the want of an interpreter, the Capi- tan Chico having remained on board ; but I at length obtained the information by signs. She was now, and had been for four days, labouring under the most acute sufferings, and for the last four hours her state had appeared hopeless. All the relief attempt- ed to be administered to the patient was a charm. When I arrived, her husband was occupied in shak- ing over her a small leathern bag, painted and other- wise ornamented, and containing I know not what, which when shaken produced a rattling noise. After making the necessary examinations, I ascer- tained the cause of the difficulty. The old women were put into the greatest consternation by my dis- coveries ; and when I signified by signs that there RELIEVING A SICK INDIAN. 283 was serious fear lest the patient might only find re- lief from her present sufferings in the grave, which idea I conveyed by stretching myself on the sand and closing my eyes, the whole party set up a dread- ful yell, that was echoed, although with a more sub- dued shrillness, from the neighbouring mountains. Indeed, I thought it prudent to prepare the family for a fatal result, from a very natural apprehension that, if the poor woman should die, the Indians might take a fancy to try their poisoned arrows upon my body, supposing me the author of her almost inevit- able death : a ceremony which I by no means wished to go through ! That the poor woman should be still alive in the shocking state in which I found her, was matter of the greatest surprise. This very circumstance, there- fore, led me to hope that she might still be preserved, and, although greatly exhausted, be able to endure the treatment I considered absolutely necessary. I can assure the reader, that my feelings were by no means comfortable, not so much from apprehensions of the effect which disappointment might produce in the minds of these savage Indians, as from the sor- row and regret I felt at my total want of science and skill. Notwithstanding, I felt that an attempt must be made to save her, which, if attended with success, would afford me infinite satisfaction ; and if other- wise, 1 should at least be conscious that I had exer- cised the little portion of judgment which nature be- stowed upon me, in assisting a poor creature, who. 284 A SINGULAR CURE, before our arrival, had lost all hope of succour. Re- lying on the assist ance of that Providence that some- times confounds the strong and confident, and lends his aid to the weak and humble, I offered up a mental ejaculation, and then made the necessary preparations for commencing an operation, of the precise nature of which I was in a great degree ignorant. I must stop to observe, that the roof of the hut wherein this poor sufferer lay, afforded shade rather than shelter, with the sides open to the four winds of heaven. Her bed was no other than the sand, and the softest support that could be found for her head was the shell of a tortoise. After ordering the hut to be cleared of all the at- tendants except three old women, whose assistance I thought might be useful, I proceeded to measures which I conceived best adapted to the occasion ; and I was finally not without hope, that another old wo- man, Dame Nature, might finish the operation. In conclusion, I gave the patient a draught of tincture of senna, and pointing to that part of the heavens which the sun would reach about four o’clock, I signified that then would be the crisis, and that I would return. Immediately after this explanation, with a mind full of anxiety and hope, I embarked for my vessel. When I got on board, I found that the two Indians had become restive in consequence of their deten- tion, and were insisting upon being put on shore. I succeeded in tranquillizing them, and afterwards sent them to join their friends. At one, p. m. we A DELICATE ARTIST. 285 dined, and were smoking our cigars, when we heard a horrid yell proceeding from the hut, which I feared might announce the death of the sufferer. This was about three o’clock. I immediately ordered the boat alongside, and embarked in her without arms, ac- tuated rather by feelings of humanity than of pru- dence. The captain, however, had received his instruc- tions to watch the proceedings, and to fire a broad- side in case our lives should be attempted. Before I could reach the shore, the Indian women and chil- dren rushed into the sea, and catching hold of the boat dragged it to the beach. At first I did not know what to make of this movement ; but reflect- ing, that at least I could have nothing to fear from the women, I remained quiet. As soon as I had landed, the three old women came forward to meet me, holding a variety of wooden and leathern figures in their hands ; but as my chief object was to assure myself of the safety or death of my patient, I did not heed them, but hastened towards the hut. My sen- sations may be easily conceived, when the reader is told, that the poor woman, although dreadfully feeble, upon my approach, animated her languid counte- nance with a smile, in token of gratitude. The rest of the Indian women hung about my neck, greeting me with the most determined caresses. Nothing indeed would satisfy the exuberance of this feeling on the part of the daughter of the “ Capitan Grande,” a young lady of about sixteen, and “ of a most interesting countenance but forcibly making 286 FRESH WATER. me sit down on the sand beneath the shelter of the hut, while she painted my face a la Tiburow ! Not wishing to deny her the indulgence of this innocent frolic, I quietly suffered her to proceed. She mixed up part of a cake of blue colour, which resembles ultramarine (and of which I have a specimen,) in a small shell ; in another, a white colour, obtained by ground talc ; and in a third was mixed a colour ob- tained from the red flint-stone of the class which I before stated was to be found on Seal Island, and resembled cinnabar. With the assistance of a point- ed stick, the tender artist formed perpendicular nar- row stripes down my cheeks and nose, at such dis- tances apart as to admit of an equally narrow white line between them. With equal delicacy and skill the tops and bottoms of the white lines were finished off with a white spot. If the cartilage of my nose at the nostrils had been perforated so as to admit a small, round, white bone, five inches in length, tapering off at both ends, and rigged something like a cross-jack yard, I might have been mistaken for a native of the island ! As soon as the operation was finished, the whole party set up a roar of merry laughter, and called me “ Hermano, Capitan Tiburow,” being the very li- mited extent of their knowledge of Spanish. I now made inquiries respecting fresh water, and was shown a well, about fifty yards from the beach, seven or eight feet deep. The taste of the water was a little brackish ; and as the length of our voy- age was as yet uncertain, l thought it a good oppor- PRECAUTIONS. 287 tunity to replenish what we had already used. I therefore returned on board to get casks for this purpose. On approaching the vessel, the master and crew imagined that an Indian was in the boat, which they might well have done from the colours on my face ; nor was the delusion destroyed by the red baize shirt and trowsers which I had worn since my embarkation in the Bruja, especially as I had no hat, having left it on board the vessel in my haste to reach the shore ! It was now evening, which rendered it imprudent to quit the Bruja till the following morning. In the mean time, not liking to rely altogether upon ap- pearances, I had the boarding-nets put up, clapped a spring on the cable, got our muskets and swords on deck, where all hands slept to be in readiness for a night attack ; and having placed sentinels on proper stations, we supped, spread the awning, and went to sleep. I could dream of nothing but the rich woman, and a dozen times during the night I imagined that my medical skill was called into requisition. An hour before daylight I was on my legs, and when Aurora began “ to tinge the east with twilight grey,” the casks were put into the boat in readiness to start so soon as this mild colour should be changed for the more gaudy beams of day. While the casks were filling, I sent the cook away in the canoe to catch fish, or at least to bring us no- tice if any existed. I had forgotten to mention 1 , that this cook is the identical dirty fellow whom I found 288 GHOSTS. on board the schooner Cocula, when I embarked at Mazatlan ! He had grown tired of his former vessel, as had also her second mate, both of whom were at this time with me ; one in the capacity of captain, the other in the exercise of his culinary skill. The latter is at least an excellent fisherman ; but being a little superstitious, whilst pursuing this occupation one night, at Guaymas, on the rocks, his imagination raised up ghosts of men without heads, which pre- sently changed their human figures for those of stags with enormously long horns. These so completely horrified the poor cook, that he could never be in- duced to fish there again at night. He is an Indian, and was born in the Manilla islands ; and although very old, he is still extremely active and a good sea- man withal. But in his cooking capacity, he could be better spared than a cleaner man ! 289 CHAPTER XII. The Tiburow Indians resemble a Patagonian tribe. — Search after pearls and native gold. — Canoes. — Discover a bay and an island. — Padre Kino. — Witches. — Turtle. — Concha naca, — An amusement. — Method of poisoning arrows. — One thousand men sent to subdue the Tiburow Indians.— Their good qualities. — Sail from the island. — Seal. — Manu- script charts ceesed to be useful. — Go on shore. — Discover a new island. — Meditations. — A horrid fight, — Birds. — Flies. — Crabs, a curious contrivance. — Effects of solitude upon the animal spirits. The Indians on the island of Tiburow are very stout, tall, and well-built fellows, exceedingly like the Twelchii tribe of Indians in Patagonia, and with a language so like theirs, that I imagined I was transported back into those wild regions. They by no means look so ferocious as they are represented, and there is something peculiarly mild in the coun- tenances of the females. Their dress is a sort of blanket, extending from the hips to the knees. But most of the old women have this part of the body covered with the skins of the eagle, having the fea- thers turned towards the flesh. The upper part of u 290 SEARCH AFTER PEARLS the body is entirely exposed, and their hair is dressed on the top of the head in a knot which greatly sets off the effect of their painted faces. The men use bows and stone-pointed arrows ; but whether they are poisoned, I do not know. They use likewise a sort of wooden mallet called Macana, for close quar- ters in war. They have a curious weapon which they employ for catching fish. It is a spear with a double point, forming an angle of about five degrees. The insides of these two points, which are six inches long, are jagged ; so that when the body of a fish is forced between them, it cannot get away on account of the teeth. The day following, having visited my patient, and given her a small quantity of tincture of bark, from which she derived considerable benefit, I went into the interior; and after about an hour’s walk arrived at the eastern coast of the island, where I looked for indications of the pearl shell. I saw none ; and on my return took a circuitous route, in order to learn the truth of reports, current in Pitic, respecting the ex- istence of native-gold spots. That such exist, multi- tudes of persons in every part of Sonora will affirm ; but their real wealth and extent, they add, no one has been able to investigate in consequence of the blood-thirsty character of the Indians, who, in addi- tion to their enmity to the whites, fear that the dis- covery of this precious metal might eventually lead to their subjugation. I travelled over the greater part of the island, but could find no trace of a “ creaddro de oro.” I AND NATIVE GOLD. 291 showed a specimen of grain-gold to the Indians ; but as they manifested the greatest ignorance of that substance, as well as unfeigned curiosity about it, I no longer entertained a doubt that the idea of a gold spot here exists only in the lively imaginations of the people with whom I had conversed upon the subject in Pitic. Their error arose from the circum- stance of this island being peopled with Indians, who permit no intercourse with the “ Christianos” of that town. Upon this slender basis has Fancy built her splendid fabrics. Nevertheless, I determined to make a more accurate investigation, in the boats, after pearl shells. I had now become so great a favourite with the islanders, that I was allowed to examine every part of their coast and territory. They say, that on the southern extremity of the island there is a mine of loadstone ; but the efforts necessary for ascend- ing the hill, where the vein is situated, I was by no means equal to, as I felt that my chest had been considerably injured by diving ; and a small exertion occasioned a suffocating; sensation which incapacitated me for violent exercise. I pro- cured, however, from the Indians a specimen of this mineral, which they said they had obtained from the hill alluded to, but that there was great diffi- culty in detaching the stone. In the “ Canal peligroso de San Miguel” (so the channel between the continent and the island is call- ed,) I observed about fifteen or twenty canoes, made of three long bamboo bundles fastened together, u 2 292 DISCOVER A NEW ISLAND. which terminated in points at the head and stern. From their natural buoyancy they easily support the weight of an Indian, although the water pene- trates through the sticks in every direction. When loaded, the centre sank down a little below the water’s edge, the bow and stern only rising about six or eight inches above it. In the afternoon we got under weigh, and stood into a bay of the continent to the north-east of the island, where from its sheltered situation, as well as from the appearance of shells upon its beach, I hoped to meet with the celebrated “placer” of pearls. We were not above three hours in arriving at this bay, where we anchored and immediately commenc- ed an investigation ; but the only thing we found was an abundance of cockles in a sort of inner har- bour, which from that circumstance I called “ Cockle Harbour.” The outer bay is formed by a very long narrow bank composed entirely of shells which have been driven up by the sea, running off from the shore nearly north and south, and terminating in a small island. This island, situated in lat. 29° 15 N., long. 111° 35' W., I have named “ Ar- nold’s Island,” and the bay in which we anchored, I named, after our vessel, “ Bruja’s Bay.” As there were no oysters to be met with, we en- deavoured to fish for the tortoise ; but we only found one. Turtle are in great abundance ; and as they swim with amazing rapidity, unless taken asleep, it is exceedingly difficult to catch them. It is reported that Padre Kino, or Kuhn, visited PADRE KINO. 293 the sea-coast to the westward of Bruja’s bay, the extreme point of which he lays down in his map as T6poca. There is, however, every reason to be- lieve, that this celebrated Jesuit was never near the spot to which this name is given, from the circum- stance that the T6poca Indian establishment is many leagues farther to the northward ; and moreover there is no fresh water near the spot, except during the rainy season, which only lasts about a month or six weeks. Nor is there any vestige of Indians to be seen except a solitary hut erected by the Tibu- rons to serve them when they go there to fish. Towards morning on the day succeeding our an- chorage in Bruja’s bay, a stiff breeze from the south- ward commenced at about four, a. m. ; and as the bottom was loose sand, and consequently bad hold- ing-ground, I did not think it prudent to remain in our present situation. At daylight, therefore, I got under weigh, with the wind at S. S. E. The upper part of the bay is full of shoals, as also towards Arnold’s Island ; in Cockle Harbour there is shallow water ; the entrance to it is from the westward. In the inside there are several Est6ros (inlets) which communicate with the sea to the westward of the bank that extends to Arnold’s Island. The ex- treme south-western point of the continent, impro- perly called T^poca Point by Padre Kino, I have named Sargent’s Point, (“ Freshwater Bay,” the name I gave to our first anchorage in front of the Indian settlement, being immediately fronting it) the lat. of which is 29° 18' N., long. 111° 37' W. 29 4 GO ON SHORE. It was fortunate that we got under weigh, for the breeze soon afterwards freshened to a gale ; and in- stead of driving us ashore, it carried us safely back to our old anchorage in Freshwater Bay, whose lati- tude is 29° 12' N., longitude 111 0 36' W. As soon as we anchored, I went on shore, anxious to see whether my patient was still alive. I had left with the old woman a small phial of the tincture of bark. As we approached, the Indians of both sexes flocked round our boat, as upon a former occasion. When I reached the hut, I found the patient so far recovered as to be able to sit upright, and she mani- fested her pleasure at our return by a smile of ac- knowledgment. That she should ever have recover- ed was no less a matter of astonishment to me, than it would probably have been to any person acquaint- ed with the dangers to which she had been exposed. After having felt the lady’s pulse, which I found to be rather languid, but with no indication of fever, my attention was directed by the old women to a pile of bushes outside the hut, which had a staff of about five feet in length sticking up through the centre. From the upper end of the staff was sus- pended by a cord twelve or fourteen inches long, a round stone ball, and to this ball was fastened another string furnished with bits of cork, sur- rounded with small feathers stuck into them, at the distance of about three inches apart : the only use of the stone ball being to prevent the wind from blowing out horizontally the string which was fur- nished with feathers. It appeared a similar ap- INDIAN WITCHES. 295 pai’atus to that which on board-ship is-jcalled a dog vane, used to indicate the direction of the wind. Upon examining the bushy pile, I discovered a wooden figure with a carved hat, and others of different shapes and sizes, as well also as leathern bags, the contents of which I was not permitted to explore. I made inquiries as to the meaning of what I saw ; but as there was no medium for expressing my wishes, from their ignorance of Spanish, and my own of their language, and Captain Chico having long since absented himself, I could not learn what I desired to know. However, I gathered enough from the signs of the old woman, pointing first to the vane, then to myself, and afterwards to the vessel, to understand that they imagined their own power over the elements had been instrumental in our return to the island. x4s the violence too of the wind, together with the danger of remaining longer in Bruja’s bay, had obliged us to seek a place of greater security, which our present situa- tion really afforded, this was thought to be so sin- gular a coincidence, that, no doubt, the circumstance will long be remembered by the credulous Indians, as a proof of the supernatural power of their old witches. Indeed, there was an expression of tri- umph in their looks, which seemed to imply that they considered me as completely under the agency of their enchantments ! In the afternoon of this day, I sent the captain and two men in the boat, to the “ Isla de Patos,” (Duck’s island,) situated about three leagues to the 296 SEALS. — CANOES. north-west of our present anchorage. The Indians say that quantities of seals frequent this island, and I was desirous of having at least more oil. I hoped also that their skins might be of a different quality from those I obtained on the Seal island, which were of no value. As I intended sailing on the following morning, some few hours would thus be saved ; and by running under the lee of that island, the party could easily be re-embarked, even though it should blow a gale. Bruja’s bay is of considerable extent, and there are from five to three fathoms water close to Arnold’s island, in the neighbourhood of which the Indians catch abundance of turtle in a singular manner. I have already described their canoes, which in Spa- nish are called “ balsas.” An Indian paddles him- self from the shore on one of these by means of a long elastic pole of about twelve or fourteen feet in length, the wood of which is the root of a thorn called Mesquite, growing near the coast ; and al- though the branches of this tree are extremely brit- tle, the underground roots are as pliable as whale- bone, and nearly as dark in colour. At one end of this pole there is a hole an inch deep, into which is inserted another bit of wood, in shape like an acorn, having a square bit of iron four inches long fastened to it : the other end of the iron being point- ed. Both the ball and cup are first moistened, and then tightly inserted one within the other. Fast- ened to the iron is a cord of very considerable length, which is brought up along the pole, and both are TURTLES. 297 held in the left hand of the Indian. So securely is the nail thus fixed in the pole, that although the lat- ter is used as a paddle, it does not fall out. A turtle is a very lethargic animal, and may fre- quently be surprised in its watery slumbers. The balsa is placed nearly perpendicularly over one of these unsuspecting sleepers, when the fisherman softly sliding the pole through the water in the direc- tion of the animal, till within a foot or two of it, he suddenly plunges the iron into its back. No sooner does the creature feel itself transfixed than it swims hastily forward, and endeavours to liberate itself. The slightest motion of the turtle displaces the iron point from the long pole, which would otherwise be inevitably broken, and the turtle would as certainly be lost : but in the manner here described, it is held by the cord fastened on to the iron which has pene- trated its back, till after it has sufficiently exhausted its strength it is hoisted on board the canoe by the fisherman, who proceeds to the shore in order to dis- pose of his prize. It is difficult to distinguish between the turtle and the tortoise while yet under water. The only differ- ence is, that the latter is a little blacker ; but they are not very abundant. Of fish, there are in the bays of this island and the adjacent continent, quantities that are excellent. There are also sharks of formidable size ; notwith- standing which, we dived for oysters in the midst of eight or ten of them, armed only with our short pointed sticks. We found nothing whatever, except 298 MODE OF POISONING ARROWS. the “ concha naca,” a large species of cockle, which the Indians eat, and which sometimes contains pearls, but of such inferior shape and colour, that they are worth nothing. There was not so much as one pearl in any of those which we obtained. The dangerous channel of San Miguel is full of shoals ; and as there is a strong tide constantly run- ning through it, the banks are continually shifting, and do not, therefore, allow time for the growth of oysters. The distance across from the nearest points is about a league ; and this channel the Indians pass in their balsas without difficulty. The appearance of the island from a distance is very beautiful, owing to the rich purple tints which distinguish all the mountain scenery of Mexico, but the shore itself is wretched. There is but one well that I saw on the island, and all the Indians who do not go over to the continent during the dry season, reside near it. During the rainy months I should suppose that the mountains would be covered with verdure, which in that state, and afterwards when dry, afford food for many very large deer that run wild about the island. In their festivities the In- dians wear the head (with the horns on) of this ani- mal, for ornamenting their own ! It is believed that the Ceres Indians have disco- vered a method of poisoning their arrows, and that they do it in this way: they kill a cow, and take from it its liver. They then collect a number of rattle-snakes, scorpions, centipedes, and tarantulas, which they confine in a hole with the liver. The TIBUROW INDIANS. 299 next process is to beat them with sticks, in order to enrage them ; and being thus infuriated, they fasten their fangs and exhaust their venom upon each other, and upon the liver. When the whole mass is in a high state of corruption, the old women take the arrows and pass their points through it ; they are then allowed to dry in the shade ; and it is said that a wound inflicted by them will prove fatal. Others again say, that the poison is obtained from the juice of the yerba de la f!6cha (arrow-wort). But I must leave the matter in the same state of doubt as I found it, inasmuch as I could not learn from the In- dians any particulars relating to the subject. I purchased of the Tiburow Indians some of their arrows, which have certainly had an unguent applied to them. The points are stone ; and there is a deep notch cut about eight inches above the stone, the in- tention of which is, that when the arrow has penetrat- ed, it may break at the notch from the violence with which it was shot, so that its extraction is next to impossible. These people have been always considered ex- tremely ferocious; and there is little doubt, from their brave and warlike character, that they may formerly have devastated a great part of the country ; but in modern days their feuds are nearly confined to a neighbouring tribe of the same name as themselves, (Ceres,) who speak the same language, and in all pro- bability originally descended from the same stock. They are said to be inferior to those of this island, both in courage and stature, and they are never suf- 300 TIBUROW INDIANS. fered to cross the channel. From what I was told by the Capitan Chico, who has already been intro- duced to the reader as the one who came on board upon our first arrival, and who spoke Spanish very well, the Tiburow C6res have lately returned from a sanguinary war w ith the Tepoca Ceres, in which the former were victorious. So great were the depredations committed by these Indians, whom Mr. Humboldt supposes may have descended from an Asiatic tribe bearing the same name, that in the early period of the settle- ment of Sonora, the Spanish viceroy availed himself of a favourable opportunity to endeavour to subju- gate them. He was unsuccessful, and met with a considerable loss, as the Ceres, like the Malay pirates of India, neither gave nor received quarter. And although the Spanish conquests extended as far as the Presidio of Toison (the golden fleece), this tribe alone has remained unsubdued up to the present time. Their numbers may be about five or six hun- dred ; some indeed say a thousand. Domestic virtues are quite incompatible with the life and habits of a savage ; but amongst these there seems to be that sort of feeling between a man and his wdves (here of the dual number), as well as be- tween parents and their children, which is not often met with among their Christian neighbours. Indeed there was apparently so much of the amiable com- bined in their characters, and they seemed so grate- ful for the interest I had manifested for the safety of SEALS. 301 the capitan’s wife, that I left them with feelings of real kindness. On the 13th, we set sail for the island of Patos, in spite of the old women’s witcheries, which they must have had the mortification to find were no longer available ! At ten, a. M. we were close to the island of Patos, with the wind at south-east. I went up to the mast- head to look out for rocks, not liking to trust to any but myself, in a matter which involved the safety of all those for whom I was responsible. Finding the coast clear, we ran within one hundred and fifty yards of the eastern shore of the island, and I was then able to converse with the captain on shore, who, with the men, had been till now engaged in trying-out seal oil. I therefore placed the vessel close under the lee of a bluff point, and landed in the canoe, giving direc- tions to the mate to stand off-and-on till I should make a signal for his nearer approach. The Isla de Patos is of small dimensions, and of little elevation ; but its whole surface is whitened by sea-gulls and other aquatic birds that sleep and lay their eggs on it. The whole of its rocky coast was covered so thickly with seal, young and old, that there was scarcely room to land, and their howls were most discordant and loud. They suffered them- selves to be killed, almost without an effort to save themselves, nor did our approach drive them into the sea. I was a little astonished at this circum- stance, till the captain told me there were the largest 302 SHARKS AND TAME BIRDS. sharks he had ever seen swimming round the coast, and that they picked up every seal who was bold enough to quit the shore. There are some curious caverns under the cliffs, but they contain nothing worthy of remark, not even a stalactite. We could not find one single blade of grass upon the whole island. The birds were so tame that the captain seized about a dozen with his own hands, for the purpose of taking the strong feathers from their wings to complete his sea- stock of pens. After running about an hour on the island, during which the men were embarking the oil and seal- skins, which were of the same quality as those we got on Seal Island, we made the appointed signal for the vessel to approach. In about half an hour after- wards we all returned on board, and made sail for Tepoca Point. Arriving at this place, which is about twenty leagues to the northward of Sargent’s Point, we saw nothing but empty huts, in conse- quence, I suppose, of the defeat they had lately sus- tained from the T’iburow Ceres. The coast is flat and sandy, and we now sailed within pistol-shot of the shore, the better to observe whether there were any traces of oysters on the bottom, which from the clearness of the water we could easily have distin- guished. But there were no rocks or other indica- tions which could lead us to suppose that we were in the vicinity of oyster-beds. Indeed the coast was too much exposed to the heavy waves of the sea for shell-fish. USE OF MAPS. 303 We ran down the coast of Sonora till dark, when I thought it prudent to heave to, inasmuch as we had extended beyond the farthest limits of our ma- nuscript charts, which, although incorrect, had serv- ed us tolerably well up to the period of our arrival in the latitude of Tiburow Island ; but now we were in a manner out of leading-strings, and had no other pilot than our own five, or as some say seven senses ! There is no account that I know, of any vessel having gone higher up the gulf than the southern extremity of the island, called