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NEW VOYAGE 
 
 ITALY- 
 
 WITH 
 
 Curious Observations on feveral 
 Other Countries: 
 
 A S 
 
 GERMANY-, SWITZERLAND-, 
 SAVOY-, GENEVA-, FLANDERS, 
 and HOLLAND : 
 
 TOGETHER 
 
 With Ufeful INSTRUCTIONS for thofe 
 who (hall Travel thither. 
 
 In Two VOLUMES. 
 
 The FifthEdition, with large Additions throughout 
 the Whole, and adorned with feveral new Figures. 
 
 Vo l. I. Part I, 
 
 Dicitur & noftros cant are Britannia Verfus. 
 
 Martial Lib. XI. Epigr. iv. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for J. and J. Bonwick, C. Rivington, 
 S. Birt, T. Osborne, E. Comyns, E. Wick- 
 steed, C. Ward, and R. Chandler, and J. 
 and R. Tonson. MDCC XXXIX. 
 
r 
 
T O 
 
 The Right Honourable 
 
 H A R L E S, 
 
 EARL of ARRAN ; 
 
 VISCOUNT TULLO ; 
 
 BARON of WESTON ; 
 
 And CLAGHERNAN: 
 CAPTAIN 
 
 Of a Troop of GUARDS: 
 
 LIEUTENANT-GENERAL 
 
 In the ARMIES of 
 
 HER MAJESTY, 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 S INCE you did not difdain fa- 
 vourably to receive thefe Me- 
 moirs, notwithftanding their Im- 
 perfections, the firft Time I had 
 the Honour of prefenting them to 
 A 2 YOUR 
 
Epijile Dedicatory 
 
 YOUR LORDSHIP ; I have Reafon 
 now to hope that after their having 
 the Advantage of gaining fome Ap- 
 probation from the Publick, and 
 their being augmented by a con- 
 liderable Number of Obfervations, 
 You will vouchlkfe to let me pub- 
 lifh them again under Your ILLUS- 
 TRIOUS NAME. I fay under 
 Your Name, MY LORD, and not 
 under your Aufpicies, according to 
 the ufual Language, and improper 
 Notion of the greateft Part of thofe 
 that write Dedications : For it is 
 
 certainly in vain, and even wrong- 
 fully, that they took the Cuftom in 
 thefe Sorts of Epiftles, to demand 
 Prote&ion for their Books, of the 
 greateft Lords to whom they de- 
 dicate them. When thefe Books are 
 worthy of Efteem, they have no 
 Occalion of being protected ; and 
 
Epifile Dedicatory . 
 
 if they do not deferve it, not all 
 the Potentates of the World would 
 be able to fecure them from that 
 Contempt which is their merited Por- 
 tion. 
 
 YOUR LORDSHIP will alfo 
 fee that I have not conformed my 
 felf to another Practice, which is no 
 lefs univerfal among the Writers 
 of this Age, to over-load thofe with 
 Elogies, to whom they addrefs their 
 Works ; not confidering that the 
 more thofe Perfons deferve Praifes, 
 the lefs they take Pleafure in receiv- 
 ing them. And it is indeed a Sort 
 of Offence, to thofe we would ho- 
 nour, to difplay their Virtues before 
 their own Eyes. For this Reafon, 
 MY LORD, I muff not enter 
 now into that vaff Field which lies 
 open before me, by following the 
 common Method. I fhall feek, and 
 A 3 zealoufly 
 
Epiflh-, Dedicatory. 
 
 zealoufly embrace, at any other 
 Time, the Opportunity of doing 
 Juftice to all the excellent Qualifi- 
 cations which I have fo often ob- 
 ferved in You, from Your very 
 Youth, the Conduct of which Your 
 mod illuftrious Grandfather the 
 DUKE of ORMOND was pleafed 
 to commit to my Care : But I 
 
 am too particularly acquainted with 
 the extraordinary mod eft Difpofi- 
 tion of Your Mind, to tire You 
 with any Sort of Encomiums. I 
 fhould be afraid that my Book would 
 meet with the fame Difgrace as 
 that did, which a * Great Prince 
 would never fuffer to be placed 
 in his Library, which was open to 
 all the Learned ; becaufe, as he faid, 
 though, perhaps with too fcrupulous 
 
 a Deli- 
 
 * Saint Louis, 
 
Epiflle Dedicatory. 
 
 a Delicacy, That Decency would 
 not allow him to extoll himfelf, 
 by thus expoling his own Praifes in 
 a Book whofe Dedication was fo full 
 of them. 
 
 I will add nothing, MY LORD, 
 to what my Pen has already noted 
 concerning your High Birth : All 
 
 the World fufficiently knows it. 
 Neither will I inlift upon the Glory 
 that YOUR LORDSHIP has 
 acquired by Your Valour, during 
 thefe laft long Wars ; following 
 by fuch a Conduit the Foot-fteps of 
 Your NOBLE ANCESTORS. 
 But, MY LORD, if I forbear 
 mentioning thefe Things, for fear 
 of difplealing You, give me Leave, 
 I humbly intreat YOUR LORD- 
 SHIP, to fay that it would be an 
 extream Satisfaction to me, to be 
 able to exprefs my Gratitude, for all 
 A 4 the 
 
Epiftle Dedicatory. 
 
 die Favours Your Goodnefs has fo 
 many Times {hewed me ; and how 
 great a Part I always take in every 
 Thing that concerns your Perfon ; 
 there being nothing fo pleafing to 
 me, as to fee YOUR LORDSHIP 
 enjoying more and more Content 
 and Happinefs. I {hall be, as long 
 as I live, with a moft profound 
 Relpedt, 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 Tour Lordship’s 
 Moft Humble j and 
 Moft Obedient Servant , 
 
 Maximilian Miffon. 
 
[ i ] 
 
 T O T H E 
 
 READER 
 
 J OSEPH PA MEL IU S, an ingenious 
 Man, has compofed fome Dialogues, in one 
 of which he defcants upon and declaims a- 
 gainft * Prefaces in general ; and particularly 
 againft thofe who make them. He complains 
 likewife, among other Things, of certain Wri- 
 ters that fpend their Lives in compofing unpro- 
 fitable Books, not to fay foolifh ones, and make 
 a fhew of thofe Trifles in their Prefaces, with 
 as grave an Air, as if they were treating of the 
 moft important Matters in the World. He can- 
 not bear, for Example, the Treatifes of Mufo- 
 muSy and Laurentius, De Meretricibus Veterum. 
 Favorinus and Manaplius are infupportable to 
 him, when they digrefs to make an Encomium 
 on a Quartan Ague. He laughs at Allatius y 
 the modern ‘f* Apion , for tormenting himfelf 
 to find out Homers Country, &c. And the 
 
 Prefaces 
 
 * Praefationes inutilia tibi videntur pondera : Mirum equidem, 
 cum eas nul’quam ponderes, neque perpendas. Vanae funt, fateor, 
 C'tecis, & Surdis. Lud. Albinus : De libris Scribendis. 
 
 That is to fay ; Prefaces are ufelefs to thofe only who never read 
 them ; and are refolved to ftand fait in their Reproaches and Preju- 
 dices. It is in vain to fpeak to the Deaf, or write to the Blind. 
 
 f Pliny reports, that the Grammarian Jpion called up the in- 
 fernal Powers, to know which was the Place of Homer's Birth. 
 Lib. II. C. xxx. 
 
n 
 
 To the READER, 
 
 Prefaces of thefe Sorts of Authors are, in his 
 Opinion, more ridiculous than the Treat ifes 
 themfelves ; becaufe they fhew that they have 
 employed a great deal of Time, with Delibera- 
 tion, to think on thofe Things that were not 
 worth their Attention ; and which could not be 
 made tolerable by thofe that produced them, 
 but by excufing themfelves, on Account of a 
 fudden Whim, on fome unexpected Occafion. 
 
 Tho’ the Authors that havefpent fome Part 
 of their Leifure, on thefe Recreations of Lite- 
 rature, do not deferve that fevere Cenfure, we 
 muft confefs that it is grounded upon fome Rea- 
 fon. One might hearken to that Critick, if his 
 contradicting Humour, did not make him place 
 in the Rank of defpicable Books, feveral Works 
 which are very agreeable, and very ufeful ; as 
 among others, are thofe Hiftorical Relations, 
 which are publifhed under theTitle of Voyages* 
 J Tis in vain for him to fay, that all thefe Books 
 are filled with Fables ; and that we fhall not 
 find one in a Thoufand of them, that is ap- 
 proved of by the Nations whofe Countries and 
 Manners are fo defcribed, for want of Travel- 
 lers not having a fufficient Knowledge of both 3 
 and becaufe that they are alfo often willing to 
 difguife Things. Every one fees the Anfwers, 
 that may be made to thefe Reflections ; which, 
 if they were juft, would be deftruCtive of all 
 Works imaginable ; fince nothing can be perfect. 
 He that travels to fee the World ; to confider 
 the different ObjeCts in it 5 to reprefent, or draw 
 to the Life, thofe which he has made a good 
 Choice of ; and to difcourfe of them judicioufly, 
 
To the READ E R. 
 
 always according to the moft exadf Truth : If 
 this Traveller is a learned Man ; if he is an uni- 
 verfal Scholar ; if he is Mafter of the brighteft 
 Parts; he meets in his Travels the moft fa- 
 vourable Opportunity of exerting them all ; and 
 the Relation he will give of them, let our Cri- 
 tick fay what he will, may deferve a very great 
 Efteem, notwithftanding perhaps fome Defedts. 
 But befides, as it is not juft to expedt that the 
 Productions of Men of Letters, fhould be all 
 of equal Value, fo ’tis no more reafonable to 
 deprive them of the Ufe of Prefaces, upon any 
 Occafion whatfoever. If what they write is 
 not abfolutely mean, nor altogether unworthy 
 Printing, as certainly the little Treatifesfo much 
 defpifed by the Author of whom I am fpeak- 
 ing, are not ; it would be with Injuftice that 
 we fhould be fo partial as to hinder thofe that 
 write, from alledging their Reafons ; and we 
 fhould be in the Wrong to condemn them 
 without giving themLeave to explain themfelves. 
 For tho’ the Things that wife Men undertake, 
 are not always very ufeful ; they ought how- 
 ever to make them with Care, as they 
 ought alfo to fhew the Ufe of them, when 
 what they do is defigned for the Pub- 
 lick. I hope then, Reader, that how indif- 
 ferent foever the Work is which is here pre- 
 fented you anew, after the kind Reception that 
 you have feveral Times before vouchsafed to 
 give it, you will not refufe to caft your Eyes, 
 not only upon the Advertifements contained in 
 thefe firft Pages, but alfo upon thofe that you 
 will find in the two little Difcourfes that follow, 
 
tv 
 
 To tie READER. 
 
 One of which was placed at the Beginning of 
 this Relation, in the firft Edition which was 
 printed in Holland ; and the other was added 
 feme time after. 
 
 We alter in Proportion as we advance in 
 Age ; the Body changes, and fo does the Mind 
 too. To what Purpofe would our Readings, 
 our Meditations, and our Experience ferve us, 
 if they did not bring us fome new Light, and 
 free our Minds from feveral Prejudices ? How 
 could we grow better, if we were always the 
 fame ? I have then altered or changed fome of 
 the Things that are the Subject of thefe Letters; 
 
 , not being now in 1714, the fame that I was 
 in 1 68 8, when I collected the Materials for them, 
 with many light Conceits of a Man come frefh 
 from the Univerfities. If I have not made 
 greater Changes, according to my new Ideas, 
 which indeed I believe to be now the beft ; ’tis 
 becaufe I did not think it abfolutely neceffary : 
 This Edition had been too much different by 
 thofe Alterations, from the preceding ones. 
 Among the Things that are added in this; fome 
 Perfons to whom I communicated thefe Addi- 
 tions before they were printed, told me that 
 according to their Opinion, fome of them were 
 above the Sphere of thefe forts of Books ; efpeci- 
 ally the Theological Matters. But that Thought 
 I am fure, has nothing in it, only Appearance. 
 There is no Subjedt, that may not naturally 
 enter into Letters; and thefe are Letters. To 
 whom does it belong to prefcribe Subjects of 
 Entertainment between two Friends that hold 
 a Commerce of Letters together ? And I add, 
 
 that 
 
V 
 
 To the R E A D E R. 
 
 that it is the fame Thing with Relations, even 
 though they fhould appear in another Form 
 than that of Letters. The moft judicious Tra- 
 vellers have not forgot to fpeak of the Religion 
 of different Nations, which they have vifited : 
 And as they have had the juft Liberty to fill 
 their Memoirs both with thofe Matters, and 
 whatever elfe prefen ted it felf to their View or 
 to their Knowledge, fo might they alfo reafon- 
 ably publifh thofe very Memoirs, in which 
 thele leveral Things have been taken Notice of 
 upon every Opportunity that offered itfelf, du- 
 ring their Travels. 
 
 But to return to Letters, we muft ftill fay, 
 that many Perfons do not enough obferve the 
 very great Difference that they ought to make 
 between the Defcription of a Country, and the 
 Familiar and free Relation that a Traveller 
 gives of that Country in his Letters, without 
 undertaking any Sort of Treatife or Diflerta- 
 tion. A Defcription, in the firft Place, requires 
 us to forget nothing that deferves Obfervation 
 in the Subjed we pretend to deferibe ; and fe- 
 condly, it does not permit us to deviate from 
 the fame Subjed. But the Advertifements that 
 are to be feen from the Beginning of thefe two 
 Volumes, never promifed. any Defcription that 
 a Traveller who makes but a little Stay in the 
 Places which he vifits, might not reafonably 
 undertake. I communicate, as I am travelling, 
 to thofe whom I write to, what Things foever 
 I meet with, that are either remarkable or di- 
 verting ; but without tying myfelf up from 
 mentioning any other Things to them in my 
 
 Letters, 
 
VI 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 Letters, but thofe; as alfo without obliging 
 myfeif to entertain them with every Thing 
 that could be met with in the Places through 
 which I pafs. So that, they would do a Thing 
 as little reafonable in pretending to regulate, or 
 fet down the Subjects of my Entertainment in 
 my Letters, as if they mould take upon them 
 to enter into the Knowledge of other Sorts of 
 Conventions, which I might have with thePer- 
 fons whom I converfed with : And it ought to 
 be fufiicient for the Reader to make him accept 
 of what is communicated to him by a Tra- 
 veller, that his Letters contain nothing but what 
 is true, and more or lefs deferring Attention ; 
 provided that his principal Defign, conformable 
 to the Title of his Book, be to relate fingular 
 Matters of Fadt, that the Opportunity of tra- 
 velling has furnifhed him with. I had already 
 taken Notice of fomething like this, in one 
 of the former Editions ; but one is obliged to 
 infill, and repeat, when thofe to whom he 
 fpeaks, have Prejudices that fpring up again, 
 or when their Memory fails them. 
 
 I have done what I could to fave the Ana- 
 chronifmes, or Inconfiftencies upon the Point 
 of Time, when linferted certain Changes, or 
 certain Fadts which have happened fome Years 
 ago; but if any Irregularity of this Nature 
 has flipped through Inadvertency, I hope that 
 Fault will be eafily excufed. 
 
 Amqn g the Additions, there are fomeThings 
 to be met with which do not agree with vul- 
 gar Notions; but that does not concern thofe 
 of my Readers, whofe Efteem I here propofe 
 
 to 
 
Vll 
 
 To the READE R. 
 
 to cultivate ; fince they all, as well as I, fpeak 
 the Language of that celebrated Author, whole 
 * Words I have cited upon the fame Subjedt. 
 The Pleafure that Perfons of right Senfe, and 
 free from Prejudice, enjoy together, when in^ 
 a mature Age; they communicate with full 
 Liberty the fweet Fruits of their long and fe- 
 rious Inquiries ; their Pleafure, I fay, then is 
 fo taking to them, and produces in their Minds 
 fo happy a Tranquillity, that the various Mur- 
 murs of the Populace are not able to give them 
 any Concern, unlefs by railing in them Senti- 
 ments of fome Compaffion for their blind Cen- 
 fures. I call the Populace and Vulgar, upon 
 this Occalion, all that fervum Pecus , whole 
 vile Opinions have no other Support but their 
 Prejudices. And for the Perfons of another 
 Rank, who for want of underftanding me 
 throughly, may perhaps be offended at the Li- 
 berty I have taken in certain Reflections, I de- 
 lire them to call their Eyes upon the Article 
 marked go* in Page 447 of the fecond Vo- 
 lume, where without doubt, they will find 
 enough to fatisfy themfelves, and to do me 
 Juftice. 
 
 If the Peace has given any Calm to our 
 Ifles after the bloody Conflicts they have had 
 with our Great Neighbour,, it has left us invol- 
 ved in fuch Diflentions, and intefline Animo- 
 
 fities 
 
 * Such is my Chara&er, &c. See Vol. II. Page 59. Nun- 
 quam volui Populo placere; nam quae ego fcio non probat Popu- 
 lus. & quae probat Populus, ego nefcio. Seneca , Epift, 29. 
 
 — Quaerendum non eft quod Vulgo placet, peflimo Veritatis 
 Interpreti. Id. de Vita be at a > L. ii. 
 
Vlil 
 
 * Lond . 
 May 1714. 
 
 To the R E A D E R. 
 
 lities as deprive us of an entire Happinefs; 
 and thefe lamentable Mifunderftandings feem 
 fo to inflame our Minds, that the mo ft rfiode- 
 rate Perfons can hardly hinder themfelves from 
 lifting under one of the Banners of this fad 
 Difcord *. One is even looked upon, by the 
 Generality of the People, as not being in the 
 Falhion, when he does not take upon himfelf, 
 and with Warmth too, one of thefe factious 
 Names which my Pen difdains to fet down, 
 of W. or of T. as if wife Perfons could not 
 approve or difapprove of Things, and pradtife 
 or rejedt them, according as they are good or 
 bad, without making any Ufe of thofe *f* ridi- 
 culous, odious and fatal Words. What our 
 Ideas are upon this melancholy Subjedt, and 
 our Defires for the common Good, without 
 ever having any Thought to difpleafe any Body, 
 the Reader may fee it, in the Pages 327, and 
 328, of the fecond Volume. 
 
 After 
 
 -j- The Words IV. and T. in their original Ufe, [thefe are the 
 Terms of an Englijb Author] were of fcandalous Signification, in 
 the Opinion of thofe who firit invented each of them. For they, 
 in the Government of Scotland, fir ft ufed the Name of W. which 
 they applied to thofe who generally kept their Meetings in the - 
 Fields, and their common Food was fow’r Milk : From that Sort 
 of Diet, they were called W: for Whig , in Scotland, fignifies 
 fow’r Milk, or fow’r Whey. And the Word T. was lirft uled by 
 the Proteflants in Ireland , and by them intended to fignify thole 
 Irijh common Robbers and Murderers, who flood out-law’d for 
 Robbery and Murder. But now, O ltrange Thi g ! thofe hate- 
 ful Names are owned, and gloried fn, as Titles of Honour; tho 1 
 they be fatal Inflruments of the great Deftroyer: ’A7/&M0W, 
 Rev. ix. 11. Divide, & Impera. A good Patriot of England , 
 let him take what Name he pleafes, is a zealous Member of the 
 true apoftolical Chriftian reformed Church ; ’ and a faithful Sub- 
 ject to the fupream Monarch, to whom he confeffes that a perfect 
 Obedience is conitantly due ; according to his imperial Prerogatives 
 fettled by the Laws of the Land, and his own lblemn Oath, for 
 the publicit Happinefs and Peace Mattb. v. 9. 
 
IX 
 
 To the R E A D E R. 
 
 After fpeaking of the Alterations and Ad- 
 ditions, I will not diffemble any Matter ; I 
 could willingly have retrenched entirely feveral 
 Things, which appear to me now not to be 
 very neceflary : But one muft obferve that thefe 
 Retrenchments cannot be made, after a Book 
 has had a certain happy Courfe • efpecially when 
 there has been feveral Impreffions of it, and in 
 different Languages. The Publifher may take 
 away what he pleafes in one Edition, but he 
 cannot abfolutely fupprefs the fame, becaufe it 
 ftill remains in another; and fome will have 
 what is retrenched, whether good or bad, re- 
 jecting the Editions in which thofe Things are 
 wanting, as being imperfeCh Thefe Volumes 
 then muft go on in their Way, very near as 
 they have begun. If fome Comptrollers fay, 
 that it had been beft to let it alone as it was 
 the firft Time ; I will not much contradict \ 
 them, in that Opinion. And truly I can fafe- ' 
 ly affirm, that I ffiould never have touched it 
 more, my Mind being fince employed in other 
 Thoughts, if I had not been much fcllicited 
 by Perfons particularly concerned in it ; and if 
 I had not found fpare Hours enough for thefe 
 Amufements, in a country Retirement, which 
 kept me lome Time far from London, and my 
 Studv. 
 
 j 
 
 Some fenfible Perfons thatfuv the Proofs of 
 this Edition, as they were printed, told me that 
 they did not approve of my filling the Pages 
 with fo great a Number of marginal Notes; 
 and as this critical Remark may be made by 
 others, it will be proper to anfwer it here. 
 
 Vol. L a Thofe 
 
X 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 Thofe Perfons fay, that thefe Notes are trou- 
 blefome, becaufe they turn away the Reader's 
 Attention, and interrupt the Thread of the 
 Difcaurle; and I own it is true: But however 
 if this Reafon was to prevail, it might be ob- 
 jected again ft all the Books, whofe Number is 
 infinite, in which the like Notes are placed, to 
 enrich the Text, and to clear up the Difficul- 
 ties of it. The Efteem, and good Ufe that is 
 daily made of fo many Commentaries, as well 
 on the Bible, as on other Books, do not agree 
 with this Complaint : And in vain would they 
 fay that thefe Notes are proper, when they are 
 not made by the Author himfelf; for it is quite 
 the Contrary. It is certain that the Conjectures 
 of our Moderns have fpoiled the Works of the 
 Ancients, without excepting the facred Books 
 themfelves. If we could difcover now a-days 
 fome original Manufcripts of "Tacitus , or of 
 Horace , of Mofes , or of Efdras , with Abun- 
 dance of Remarks of their own making, our 
 Cenfurers would not certainly take a Fancy to 
 objedt that all thefe Remarks would be trou- 
 blefome and perplexing to the Readers: at lead:, 
 we may fay, that they would be much in the 
 Wrong to talk fo : And if the Comparifon is not 
 juft in the Perfons, it is fo in the Thing, and 
 in the Manner. Taffo has publifhed fome 
 Pieces of his Poetry, with his own Commen- 
 taries. Menage has done the fame Thing in 
 his Amceni fates Juris: And Mr Bayle has put 
 Annotations upon Annotations- in his hiftorical 
 Didiionary. One may have good Things to 
 fay upon a Subjedt, which how good foever they 
 
 miaht 
 
 w 
 
XI 
 
 To the READ E R. 
 
 might be, would make the Difcourfe languish- 
 ing, and diffufed, if introduced as by Force 
 into it; but they may be placed judicioufly in 
 the Margin, where the Reader finds them, and 
 makes ufe of them w r ith Pleafure. There are 
 fome Books that are not bad, but becaufe their 
 Authors could not have the Heart to lofe fome 
 Thoughts, or Fadls, which appearing to them 
 to be worthy of a Place in their Works, they 
 have put themfelves under a Neceflity of in- 
 troducing them into the Body of the Book, 
 inftead of placing them in the Margin. Let 
 us fay then, that indeed there are fome little 
 Inconveniences in the Ufe of Commentaries ; 
 but let it be acknowledged at the fame Time 
 that it is juft fo in almoft every Thing we do, 
 and even in thofe that are really neceffary. For 
 certainly it is very troublefome to pull off our 
 Cloaths every Night, and to put them on again 
 every Morning : Eating and Drinking fo fre- 
 quently is another Work very troublefome, 
 that takes up a great deal of Time and Pains : 
 Neverthelefs we do not conclude from thefe 
 Difficulties, that we muft make aShift without 
 thefe inevitable Things : More or lefs do not 
 alter Maxims. But befides, I have another An- 
 fwer, which is unanfwerable, to make to thofe 
 that are afraid of being troubled with the An- 
 notations they v/ill find here : ’Tis in a Word, 
 they need only to let them alone; which is in- 
 deed eafy to be done. The Difcourfe is com- 
 pleat, and coherent in the Letters ; let them 
 then read only the Letters, if they have a mind 
 to read them ; and they may let alone the Notes 
 
 a z if 
 
Xll 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 if they won’t have them. And as I have ot>- 
 fervedfor fomeTime paft, that young Travellers 
 have made life of this Relation, I own I have 
 fometimes put ? on purpofe for them, certain 
 Things in the Margin, which I ftiould have 
 negledted, had I only had a Regard to other 
 Readers. 
 
 Those that do not underftand Latin, com- 
 plain alfoof their finding too much of it here; 
 but it would not he reafonable that thofe that 
 do underftand it, fhould lofe what I commu- 
 nicate to them, becaufe others do not know 
 how to make ufe of it. There are fome Pieces 
 which I have tranflated ; but I have left the 
 greateft Part of thofe, whofe Grace confifts 
 no lefs in the Expreflion than in the Thought. 
 
 As for thofe Quotations from the Greek and 
 Latin Poets, which feveral labour to introduce in 
 great Numbers, into their Writings, there are 
 but very few of them to be found in thefe Let- 
 ters. Mr Menage calls them Eruditions: And 
 * Gabriel Naude , who alfo holds, as every one 
 knows, a confiderable Place among the Learned, 
 loved to checquer, as he exprefled it, his Dif- 
 courfes with thofe fine Sentences; by marrying 
 his own Conceptions with thofe of the Ancients, 
 to prevent the Inconveniency of languishing 
 and thin Periods : Pretending alfo, that all thofe 
 PalTages from Authors of great Name, were 
 
 Arguments 
 
 * In his Book intituled, Apologie des Grands Homines foupecon- 
 nez de Ivlagie. What he fays is true, that we ought to cite thofe 
 from whom we borrow the Thoughts we make ufe of ; but thofe 
 Quotations have no Relation to the pretended Authorities, which 
 he to boafted oi, and of which we are here fpeaking. 
 
1111 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 Arguments of great Authority, like Oracles, and 
 very flrong Proofs of what he advanced. One 
 may indeed make an agreeable ufe enough of 
 fome Allegations of this Nature. We are not 
 difpleafed to (hew that fome learned and fa- 
 mous Men of the old Ages have thought as 
 we do. And when their Expreffions are flrong 
 and happy, they ferv.e by Way of Ornament 
 to ours, provided we cite them but very fparing- 
 ly, and much a-propos . But as for Authority, 
 thev have none at alls ’tis a falfe and even a 
 
 j ' 
 
 dangerous Imagination. In Things that are 
 Matters of Fadt, the more Witneffes there are, 
 the more Proofs there are ; and then, the Wit- 
 neffes are indeed true Authorities : But in Mat-' 
 ters of Speculation and Examination, there is 
 no Proof at all to be drawn from the Opinion 
 of any Man whomfoever. All thofe Perfons 
 whom they call Fathers ; all thofe Affemblies 
 that they term Councils ; all the Homers and 
 Virgils ; all Mankind joined together may all 
 reafon ill; and indeed we have feen at allTimes 
 Mens falfe Opinions univerfally received in the 
 World as fo many Truths. Nothing then is 
 more proper to nourifh Error, than the ill Ufe 
 of thefe Sorts of Authorities. And befides, 
 ’tis taking his Reader for a Dupe , to pretend 
 to make him believe they are very learned, by 
 {hewing him all thefe fine Sentences, lince 
 there are very large Collections of thefe Sorts 
 of Things to be had, from whence the Igno- 
 rant may draw a great Store of them, and make 
 in that Manner a great Shew of Antiquity, 
 without ever having any true Acquaintance with 
 it, a 3 As 
 
XIV 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 As I am far from having a perfeft Know- 
 ledge of the Englifh Tongue, I cannot affirm 
 that I have mended all the Faults of the Tran- 
 flation, which was formerly made in my Ab- 
 fence, and without my Knowledge: but I have 
 corrected a great Number of them; and I am 
 miftaken, if there remain many of thofe which 
 may be faid to be of any Importance. How- 
 ever, I believe I may demand of my equitable 
 Reader, that if he meet with any Paffages that 
 do not pleafehim, and where ’tis not improba- 
 ble but that the Fault arifes from the Tranflator, 
 he will be fo juft as to fufpend his Judgment, 
 hill he has feen my Words in my own Lan- 
 guage. For the belt Tran flations are defebtive, 
 even when it happens, which is very rarely, 
 that they are more elegant than the Originals : 
 "Tis impoffible that a Tranflator fhould always 
 rightly enter into the Author’s Thoughts, when 
 the Work is of any Length: And efpecially 
 when that good Man, Fdmi , non Famce confulit* 
 
 In the former Editions, I have taken Notice 
 of fome Reflebtions that had been made in 
 publick Writings, upon feveral Particulars that 
 are contained in thefe Letters ; and it is proper 
 now to do the fame Thing here, tho’ lefs for my 
 own Defence, than for the Satisfabtion of the 
 Readers : For k is certainly the in difpen fable 
 Duty of all Hiftorians, either to acknowledge 
 that they were mifmformed, or to refute thofe 
 that contradibl them. 
 
 I. The learned and famous Mr Simon, Au- 
 thor of the critical Fliftory of the Old and 
 
 New 
 
To the READ E R. 
 
 New Teftament, and of a great Number of 
 other Works, would have been willing that I 
 had not brought the * Popefs JOAN again 
 upon the Stage, in my Letters written from 
 Rome : And has attempted, in his \Bibliothe- 
 que Critique , to raife anew fome of the Diffi- 
 culties that have already been objected again ft 
 the Truth of that curious Fad; but on the 
 other Side, as this fevere Critic k does not attack 
 our Letters in any other Place , and even as 
 he does honour them by faying, that they are 
 in every Country and Language, a Book of 
 Gold, to thofe that fell them ; his Cenfure is 
 not a Sign of his defpifing them. He has been 
 very far from being angry, as others have done, 
 with that Ridiculum of Horace , [ Ridiculum 
 acri , GV.j which I have now and then made 
 ufe of againft certain fuperftitious Practices ; 
 he that has feveral Times plainly told us, that 
 he was a Car ait e Chrejiein , and a Catholique 
 Epure , always filled with a perfed Contempt 
 for all Sorts of things that ferve to keep up 
 popular and falle Devotions. See the firft Vo- 
 lume of his Lettres Choijies , ,p. 44 and 68. 
 and elfewhere. 
 
 II. S ome Time ago, a Friend of mine 
 wrote me word from Holland , that a certain 
 Prieft of the Romijh Sed had publifhed a French 
 a 4 Tranflation 
 
 * Mr Frederick Spankcim, ProfefTor of Divinity in the Uni- 
 verfity of Leyden, undertook alfo to prove the Fadl of the Popefs, 
 fome Time after the Publication of thefe Letters. 
 
 ■f He has publifhed this Bihliotheque taking the new Name of 
 Saint-yore ; See farther, Tom. II. Pag. 129, the feveral other 
 Names, under which this Author has fometimes difguifed himfelf. 
 
xvi 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 Tranflation of a little Italian Book, which is a 
 fmall Abftrad: of the Lives of the Doges of 
 Venice ; and that this Man takes an Oecafion 
 to fpeak undecently of the worthy Mr Amelot , 
 and of us, becaufe of certain Truths that both 
 of us have written with fome Freedom, con- 
 cerning that Country. If that Book happens 
 to come into England , and it fhould fall into 
 our Hands, we may perhaps confider it a little, 
 and fay fomething more particular of it in fome 
 other Place : But fince it feems to be con- 
 
 demned to the * Scombri of Horace and Mar- 
 tial*, and none of thofe that publifh journals 
 of Literature, having yet vouchfafed to men- 
 tion it ; I may very well fay of the Cenfures 
 of this Author, what the fame Martial laid 
 of the defpicable Verfes of a certain Diaulus ; 
 without giving myfelf the Trouble of refuting 
 him any other Way. 
 
 Verficulos in me narrant fcripfiffe *f* Diaulum : At 
 
 Non fcribit cujus Carmina nemo legit . Lib. iii. 9, 
 
 I will then content myfelf with adding a 
 Word concerning the || Book of Mr Leguat, 
 a good and honed: Gentleman, in which they 
 
 a fibre 
 
 * Damnatus ad Aromatopolarum tabcrnas,— Scombri s Moleftas 
 dabis tunicas. Lib , III. Epi^f. ?. — Carmina quae legunt cacan.- 
 tes, Lib. XIII. Ep. 26.^ See Per/. Sat. J. Verge 63. And Ho- 
 rat. Epiji.i. L 2. — Quicquid chartis amici tur ineptis 
 
 ■\- Sic, in quibufdam Codicibus MSS. qt monuit Vir bonus & 
 dodtus— 'Magliabechi.— Vulgo, Verficulos in me narratur fcriberc 
 Cinna, &c. 
 
 j| Voyage & Avantures de Mr Leguat , See. 
 
IVJ1 
 
 To the READ E R. 
 
 afiiire me that the Prieft fpeaks much otherwife 
 than he ought to do. It feems, fay they, that 
 he grounds his unjuft Liberty upon the Account 
 hehasfeen of Mr Leguat' s Book, in the Journal 
 that is intituled, Nouvdles de la Repub lique dcs 
 Lettres ; in which the Author of the faid Nou- 
 velles ufes very ill, without any Reafon, both Mr 
 Leguat , and the Relation he has publifhed. 
 
 These Sorts of Journals ought not to be 
 turned into defamatory Libels no more than 
 Sermons. The Journals of Paris, Amjlerdam , 
 Leipfick , Lrevoux , or any of the reft, have 
 not) ing in tnem but what is civil ; and the 
 good Republick of Letters, is not at all pleafed 
 with reading fuch flandering News. It would 
 be a ftrarige Thing indeed, that the moft inno- 
 cent and commendable Perfons fhould be ine- 
 vitably expoled to the Mercy of malicious 
 Preachers and Journalifts, of the like Character, 
 becaufe their Satyrs generally go unpunifhed. 
 Some Reafons which are not neceflary for me 
 to explain here, oblige me to lay in Favour of 
 Mr Leguat , that the Relation he has publifhed, 
 is faithful and true ; as reafonable Perfons alfo 
 agree that it contains many Circumftances, 
 which are very extraordinary, and worth re- 
 lating ; I am equally certain of both. The 
 Objections that are made againft an Epitaph, 
 and two other fmall Particulars of that Nature, 
 in his Book, are fit only to fhew the Inconfi- 
 deration of thofe that make them, as well as 
 their great Unkindnels. As it has often hap- 
 pened, that the Writer of the abovefaid Nou- 
 velles has ridiculed fome Books of which he 
 
 hai 
 
• • 
 
 xviii 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 has made Extracts, fo he took a Fancy, judg- 
 ing of others by himfelf, that Mr Leguat was 
 pleafed to play upon the Abbot de Choify , in 
 quoting fome Words out of one of his Books. 
 But he ought not to give fuch a traducing Turn 
 to Mr Leguat ' s Conduct, which was very 
 innocent. I know upon his fecret and fincere 
 Proteftation, that he never had the lead: In- 
 tention, in his mentioning the deferving Gen- 
 tleman I juft now named, to fay any Thing 
 that could be taken in a difadvantagious Senfe, 
 and might derogate from the great Efteem 
 he has for him. 
 
 III. Without retracing what I have juft 
 now faid of the * Journal of Trevoux , the 
 Reverend Fathers that compofe it, will give 
 me Leave to make fome Reflections here upon 
 their Article of Lome IV, Pag . 220, of the 
 Holland Edition. I muft fay then, 1. That I 
 do not approve of the Method of thofe who 
 begin by believing, and afterwards feek for 
 Proofs; fo that thofe Gentlemen do me In- 
 juftice, in faying that feveral Places of my Re- 
 lation are written for thofe who blindly be- 
 lieve : I never had the leaft Defire to be hearken- 
 ed to, by Perfons whole Minds are thus dif- 
 pofed. 2. Thofe Fathers fall into another 
 Miftake, in accufing me of taking Pleafure in 
 fpeaking ill of the Court of Rome . Far from 
 finding any Sort of Satisfaction in fpeaking ill 
 of that moft famous Court, I would fain, with 
 
 all 
 
 * This Journal is now made at Paris by fome learned Jefuits, 
 Under the Title of tiijidre des Sciences & des beaux Arts. 
 
XIX 
 
 To the READ E R. 
 
 all my Soul, fay a great deal of Good of her; 
 but I have not written one Word of any Thing 
 that ought to be applied to the Court of Rome , 
 properly fpeaking. If 'tis fpeaking ill of that 
 Court, to make fome Remarks upon the Ad- 
 ventures of the *5 anta-Cafa ; upon the Mar- 
 tyrdom of Father Garnet ; upon the Trophies 
 of the Vatican for horrible Maffacres; and 
 upon fome Relicks, and other luch Things, I 
 ingenuoufly own, that I have often run the 
 Hazard of difpleafing the Court of Rome : 
 But not to pleafe her upon all Occafions, and 
 to fpeak ill of her, are different Things : 
 And befides, I could make a long Lift: of 
 good Catholicks, whofe direCt Pafquils have 
 been more fevere, than my complained of Re- 
 flections, upon feveral Maxims and Practices 
 of that holy Court. 3 . Thofe miftaken Wri- 
 ters wrong me ftill farther, by infinuating 
 that I alfo take a general Delight in drawing 
 difadvantagious Pictures of Things that are in 
 Italy. 5 Tis the Interefl: of thofe that publilli 
 the Relation of their Travels, to relate agree- 
 able FaCts, as far as it is poflible, that they 
 may gain the better Attention ; and according 
 to this Principle, which is not unreafonable, I 
 have commended with Pleafure Things worth 
 Commendation, but without Flattery or Exag- 
 geration. And fince a Man may be permitted 
 to fpeak of himfelf in Prefaces, I will here 
 add, that I have willingly adopted one of Fa- 
 ther Bonhours Devices, Sponte Favos , cegre 
 Spzcula. Upon this Account, I have fpoken 
 well of feveral Perfons, according to my In- 
 clination 
 
XX 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 clination and Duty. I have made an honoura- 
 ble Mention of the * two Popes that I have 
 feen ; of -f* this prefen t Pope, and of fome 
 [| others : Without ever blaming, as I know 
 of, any Man living. 
 
 An© tho’ certain Principles commonly re- 
 ceived, and openly taught by the Jefuits, have 
 fometimes driven on this Pen into fome Re- 
 flexions againft Things that are blameable in 
 my Opinion ; however I praifed fome, and 
 taxed none of thofe Gentlemen. Let us add, 
 that a plain Jefuit with all his Equivocations 
 and Maxims of fuch a Moral, &c . is a Man 
 much lefs dangerous, than a pretended anti- 
 jefuitical hypocrite Teacher, that publickly re- 
 proves thofe Maxims, but continually praXifes 
 them, and worfe. 
 
 I have fpoken advantagioufly of the Coun- 
 try 3 the Air j the Fruits ; the Churches ; the 
 Houfes; the Libraries ; the Paintings; the Ca- 
 binets of Rarities ; and an hundred other Things 
 befldes: Muft we neceflarily cry up every in- 
 dividual Thing, every ObjeX in Italy ? Muft 
 we prefer 'Tivoli to Versailles ? The Tyber to 
 the Seine ? &c. &c. Muft we fay of the 
 Italians what their xinioxtxmatQBoccalini ridicu- 
 
 loufly 
 
 * Innocent XI, and Innocent XII. -f Clement XI. 
 
 J| Martin V, and Adrian VI, of whom I have fpoken accord- 
 ing to their perfonal Merit. Who denies that a Pope may be a 
 good Man, though very much miftaken in the Notions he has of 
 his Papacy ? This laft, I mean Adrian VI, may be put in Com- 
 petition with the molt commendable Projectors of a Reformation 
 in the Church of Rome, See hereafter, Vol, I. pag.by and 
 the lour Pages following. 
 
XXI 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 loufly faid of them, that they only have their 
 Brain in their Heads ; whereas other Nations 
 have it in their * Backs. 
 
 I have alfo met with I don’t know what 
 other Cenfurer, which has accafed we with 
 not loving the Venetia?ts : But this Imputation 
 is alfo falfe and ridiculous : And even I may 
 fay, that a Man of fevere good Manners, on 
 certain Regards, who has pafled his Life in 
 Venice , is to be more valued than another Man 
 of the like Character, that has been educated 
 in the mod: reformed City: And the Reafon 
 is, becauie the Firft has been put to the Trial, 
 in thefe particular Relpedts, of engaging and 
 vanquifhing the moft dangerous and frequent 
 Temptations. Befides, ’tis the moft improba- 
 ble Thing in the World, that, unlefs a Man is 
 deprived of his Senfes, he can hate a Venetian 
 as a Venetian ; a Frenchman as a Frenchman ; 
 and fo of all the reft of the Inhabitants of the 
 Earth. Men are not valuable, or defpicable, 
 but by their perfonal Qualities: I have never 
 faid any Thing that is incompatible with the 
 Encomiums, which I could make with Plea- 
 fure upon the excellent Men that Venice has 
 often produced, and does ftill produce every 
 Day. The Names of thofe that are not un- 
 known to me, would encreafe this Volume: 
 But I cannot forbear faying here, that the moft 
 virtuous and noble Sylvejier Valier , who was 
 eledted Doge when I was there in 1694, is 
 
 the 
 
 * Gli Oltramontani hanno il Chervello nella S china, e gli Ita- 
 lian! l’hanno nel Capo. 
 
xxii 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 the Man I ever faw, or heard of, who enjoyed 
 among# his Patriots, the moft univerfal Efleem, 
 Love, Refpedt, and Applaufe, as being above 
 all Praifes. And fince this Mention of a Doge 
 doth prefent me with the Opportunity of adding 
 a Word, I mu# advife here a certain Critick, 
 that he was extreamly miftaken, when he 
 thought that fome Particulars which I have re- 
 lated of the Dignity, or Office of the Doge 
 of Venice , were in any Manner refledting on 
 the Honour of the Republick : He might ra- 
 ther think the contrary, and confider that if 
 fome Men brought up from their Infancy, un- 
 der the Notions of a defpotick and unlimited 
 Power ; according to which another Man, at 
 their Head, may arbitrarily difpofe of their 
 PoiTeffions, Families, and Lives, &c. The Ve- 
 netians have other Principles. 
 
 The Authors of the Journal of Prevoux, 
 have been misinformed concerning another Fadt, 
 of which I (hall take Notice here, fince I have 
 an Opportunity of doing it. I declare that the 
 Book which they mention, Page 323, of their 
 third Volume, and which is attributed to me, 
 as they fay, by the general Confent, is none of 
 my Works. I had fome Share in the Edition, 
 that was made of that Rhapfody ; and perhaps 
 it will be proper for me to declare in another 
 Place how the Thing happened; but in the 
 mean Time, I ftill lay, that I am not the Au- 
 thor of that Book. It contains fome Fadls, 
 which I will neither deny, nor affirm ; and 
 which alfo are not worth any Inquiry; I find 
 feveral Things in it that are true, but which 
 
 were 
 
XX111 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 were not neceffary to be mentioned: And I 
 could make two or three Volumes of remark- 
 able Particulars that ought to be inferred in it, 
 feeing the Project of the Author. I fhall take 
 Notice of one, which is fo much the more 
 worthy of Obfervation, as few Perfons have 
 any Knowledge of it, and are even prepofleffed 
 to the Contrary : And that is, that King 
 James II was not inftalled in the Royalty on 
 his Coronation-Day, after the Manner of his 
 Proteftant Predeceffors : Which Circumftance 
 is to be noted in the Account given by the Au- 
 thor of the King’s Coronation. The Delicacy 
 of his Confcience, and the Defigns he had 
 then in View, obliged him to change the Form 
 of the Ceremonies : So that his M. neither re- 
 ceived the Communion, nor took the ufual 
 Oaths and Engagements. Every one fees the 
 diverfe Confequences of this Matter of* Fadl; 
 and efpecially how fome mifinformed Writers 
 have inconiiderately infinuated that this Prince, 
 who adted fincerely, according to his religious 
 Principles, had violated his folemn Promife. 
 
 IV. This is the Place where I defigned to 
 entertain my Reader for fome Time, with 
 certain Paffages of the Relation that D. Ber- 
 nard de Montfauccn , a Benedidtine Monk, has 
 publilhed of his Travels in Italy , under the 
 Title of Diarium , &c. But it is impoffible 
 
 to 
 
 * Soon after the Coronation, an exact Hiftory, or Account of 
 that Ceremony was printed, and diftributed to many Perfons of 
 Ranlc, by the King’s fpecial Order ; bat, I think, never fold. 
 I have thefe Particulars from that authentick Eook, 
 
XXIV 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 to give even an AbftraCt of the Things that 
 I have prepared, in thefe prelent Volumes, 
 which are already fwelled to a larger Bulk than 
 they ought to be. My Defig n was not to un- 
 dertake a general Criticifin of the Diarium ; a 
 Work of too great a Length, and that would 
 agree with few Readers* I Ihall even be fhort 
 upon fome fmall Matters about which that Au-* 
 thor has thought fit to conteft, though after a 
 tacite Manner. But fince lie makes a Shew 
 of a Difiertation, with a Sort of Oftentation, 
 to the Eves of the * Furba Eruditoruni , whom 
 he pretends to inform after a decifive Manner, 
 concerning that famous Manufcript, which is 
 kept fo precioufly in the Treafury of St Mark y 
 I dare promife to fhew very plainly, not only 
 that the various Proofs that are cited by that 
 fo learned Man, to contradict me, are by no 
 Means conclufive : but alio, that in the En- 
 deavours he has made to reftore the Reputation 
 of this difcredited, and perifhed Relick, his 
 Zeal has made him 'f advance Maxims, Sup- 
 pofitions, and FaCts not to be maintained; and 
 even contradictory to his own Principles. And 
 as I have formerly applied myfelf with Care, 
 to fearch after thofe Things which have been 
 the Occafion of his publifhing a Volume by 
 the Title of F alceograpbia Grceca , I fhall com- 
 municate fome Obfervations upon that Book, 
 that I hope may give fome Satisfaction to thofe 
 who fanfy this Study to be really of great Ufe. 
 
 m 
 
 * See the Diarium , Page q6. Line 4. -f- See hereafter, 
 
 Vol. II. Pag. 596. and the Word Montfaucon, in the Table. 
 
XXV 
 
 To the READER. 
 
 He of whom we have already fpoken, who 
 writes, or did write not long ago, la Suite des 
 Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres [of which 
 the famous Mr Bayle was the firft Contriver ;] 
 and who always has fought after every Oppor- 
 tunity of difobliging, by a miferable Return of 
 * Revenge, a Perfon which never gave him 
 the leaft Offence whatfoever; that Writer, I 
 fay, will clearly fee, in our Remarks, on the 
 Diarium Italicum , the ill Succefs of the De- 
 fign he had, when, in giving an Extrad of 
 that Book, he affeded to advertife the Publick, 
 or thole that read his Nouvelles , that I was the 
 Perfon whom Father Montfaucon attacked and 
 contradided : For truly, this Father points at 
 me, without mentioning my Name. 
 
 The fame Writer of the faid Nouvelles , 
 will acknowledge, that the Condud he has 
 ufed upon this Occalion only proves that he 
 did not underftand thefe Matters. If he had 
 underftood them, he would perhaps have turned 
 his Refledions upon the falfe Arguments of 
 Father Montfaucon, and not againft me. Equi- 
 table Readers will conlider then, that no Con- 
 clulions ought ever to be drawn from the fa- 
 tyrical Paffages of the Writer of this Journal, 
 againft the Perfons whom he takes the Liberty 
 
 * It would not be very adVintagibus, either for him, or other 
 Perfons whom he knows, if one ihould oblige him to explain 
 the Real'on of his ill Humour, See. Si quis occentaftit malum 
 Carmen, live condidifiet, quod infamiam fadit, live Flagitium al- 
 teri, capitale efto ; faid heretofore the Laws of the Twelve Tables : 
 They pronounced Sentence of Death, againft thefe Sorts of In- 
 cendiaries, as well as againft others. 
 
 b 
 
 to 
 
VI 
 
 To the R E A D E R. 
 
 to expofe in it, after a difadvantagious Man- 
 ner. His Maxim is, when he is in the Pulpit, 
 not to do to others what he would not have 
 others do to himfelf, according to the Precept 
 of the Gofpel : He ought then never to forget 
 the feveral Things which he complains of in 
 his Remonftrance, after a very lamentable Man- 
 ner, to his Superiors, when he demands Juft ice 
 of them, againft an Author of a certain Wri- 
 ting, in which he pretends, that an ill Character 
 is given of his wronged Perfon. 
 
 V. I have alfo been told of two other 
 Books, in which fome Paffages in my Relation 
 are contradicted. In one of them, which is 
 intituled, Memoirs de Florence, de Modern, & de 
 Parme, or fomething like that : The Author, 
 fay they, excepts againft what I have written 
 concerning the Church called San- Pietro in 
 Grado, between Pifa and Leghorn ; and the 
 Things that I have related about that Matter. 
 He alfo pretends, againft me, that the Tower 
 of Pifa was made leaning on Purpofe ; becaufe, 
 fays he, £C The Stories are upon an horizontal 
 cc Plan But he advances what he has never 
 feen, and what is not fo 5 for I have viewed the 
 Thing at two different Times. The Reader 
 may fee what I have written of thefe two 
 Articles, in the lecond Volume of this Edition, 
 Pag. 260, &c . and Pag . 263. This Writer 
 conceals his Name. They have communicated 
 to me a Paffage of his Book which is fo much 
 the more lingular, as the Author is a goodCa- 
 tholick, and great Friend to the Monks. We 
 will infert here that Curiofity, to ftiew him 
 
 the 
 
To the READER. xxvii 
 
 the Value we fet upon his fair Ingenuity; and 
 how far we are, by doing fo, from any recrimi- 
 nation for his Criticifms. There are, fays he, 
 
 “ a great Number of Scholars in the Univer- 
 “ fity of Bologna, as well Laymen, as Priefts 
 <c of every Order; and it is for the Amufe- 
 “ ment, or Diverfion of thefe Students, that 
 “ there are at leaft Twelve thoufand Filles de 
 <c joye, [Whores] enrolled, and regiftered in 
 “ the Book of their Society : Without reckon- 
 <c ing the obliging Girls in great Number, who 
 <c will not have their Names inferted in the Ca-* 
 
 “ talogue.” I place, adds he, the religious 
 “ Order, and Friar-Students among thofe for 
 cc whom the Diverfion of Women is P R E^ 
 lc PARED, though the Thing is not ap- 
 <c proved of by his Holinefs’s Vicars, {5V.” 
 
 VI. The other Book contains, as I hear, 
 a Relation of what the Author has been able 
 to obferve, in his pafiing through fome Pro- 
 vinces or States of Germany . This learned Man 
 having an Occafion to mention fomewhere the 
 * Eleven thoufand Virgins, he fays that we 
 ought to believe theHiftory of them; and that 
 he verily believes it, though it appears to him 
 to be a litde puzzling; •f but he cannot fanfy, 
 
 b 2 that 
 
 * There were, fay they, Eleven thoufand and eleven ; but 
 they commonly fay, Eleven thoufand for Shortnefs, as we fay the 
 Septuagiht for the feventy two Interpreters. 
 
 f This Author doth not remember the numberlefs curious Hif- 
 tories of this Nature ; which, however, he has certainly read in 
 the Golden Legends of the Bilhop of Genne's, J a cobus aVomgine : 
 In the Book of Conformities between St Francis and J . C. In the 
 Chriltiaa Alcoran, by that Patriarch ; In the pious Recreations* 
 
xxviii To the READER. 
 
 that the good honeft Priefts of Verona , Men 
 of great Learning, to be fo Ample as to carry in 
 Pioceffion the AJinine Relick, which I men- 
 tioned, V )l. I. p. 199. though there is nothing 
 more certain. His Zeal for the Church of 
 Rome , of which he is a devout Member, 
 has raifed in him an Indignation at our expof- 
 ing the Ridiculoufnefs of this fine Story, and 
 that of the Worfhip which is paid with great 
 Ceremonies, to the Skin and Bones of this 
 four-footed Saint ; who fo gravely and mira- 
 culoully tranfported himfelf from yerufalem 
 to Verona: And in this Paffion, as he takes 
 Care to hide his own Name, and to difguife 
 that of his Bookfeller, he vents himfelf, as 
 they tell me, in very bold and pious ill Lan- 
 guage. Thefe Sorts of Writers that conceal 
 themfelves, in fpeaking againft Truth and 
 Decency, put me in mind of what Barlceus> 
 one of our beft modem Poets, fays to them 
 very elegantly. 
 
 and in thofe of Angelin Gazes : In the Gofpel of the “Jacobins ; 
 the Cordon du Rofaire ; the Proto-Evangelium ; the Micropresbu- 
 ticon ; the Mirabilia Mirabilium ; the Speculum Hiftoriale ; the 
 Collection by Cafarius , and the Hiltory of Gregory de Tours ; 
 the Gloffarium Latinitatis by Du Cange , upon the Feajls of AJfes % 
 and Fools ; See. Sc t. He does not remember the Aft of Rimini ; 
 the Whale of St Maclou ; the Dog of Corbie ; the Sifters Grafs - 
 hoppers ; the Sifters Frogs ; and the Brother -Wolf ; the Loin of 
 Veal that was eaten and made whole again ; Thomas Becket's Bird ; 
 the Swallows and Mackerels of Mr St Bennet and of St Francis , 
 See. See. See. The famous Stephen Pafquier complains of placing 
 Bealls upon the Altars, in the Room of G. [ Pafquier's Letters, 
 Book X. Lett. I ] What I might add of that p ofane, facrilegiou* 
 and monllrous LraClice of the Romijh Seft in Portugal , Spain , 
 and other Places, is afterwards quoted from a Book of a zealous 
 Roman Catholick, printed at Paris* SeeRoLU, Parti . p. 3 55, 
 in the Margin. 
 
 Si 
 
To tie R E A D E R. 
 
 Si vis latere ut fordidijjimus Cimex ; 
 
 Ut Aranea ■ ut Locufta vepribus denjis ; 
 
 Ut Coluber ; Jub turribus mains Bubo, 
 
 Latere perge ; dummodo hoc feras diet, 
 
 Odiffe Lenebras Optimos , Malos Lucem. 
 
 . I should end here with the Apoftrophe of 
 good Barlceus, if in order to give the Chara- 
 cter of our Critick in a material Point, 1 did not 
 think fit to tranferibe fome of his own Words. 
 * I had rather, fays he, “ to give a pious and 
 <c confenting Faith to what is told me, than to 
 cc bear the Trouble of waiting for any ConviCti- 
 <c ons, before I come to any Determination.— 
 As this Philofopher is Matter of himfelf to be- 
 lieve any thing that he pleafes without Proof, we 
 muft not much wonder if he denies alfo what 
 he has a Mind to deny without Rea fon. After 
 his venting abundance of Choler againft thofe 
 that laugh at certain Relicks, and rebuke fevere- 
 ly fome fuperftitious Practices, he recollects him- 
 felf, appearing very thougthful, and expeCts no 
 lefs, fays he with Concern, cc than that they will 
 “ not fpare him, when they come one Time or 
 <c another to criticife upon his poor Book:” But 
 however pray fee, dear Reader, how he is now 
 fpared : Molto vale y e poco cojla , a male parole 
 buona rijpojla . 
 
 If the Difference of what is commonly cal- 
 led J Religion, has put three or four fuch Wri- 
 
 * They allure me, that thefe are his own Words, in Part If. 
 p. 82. This Book, fay they, is written in a Style whofe frequent 
 and fingular Irregularities are very diverting, as well - as the great- 
 eil Part of the Obfervations in it. This anonymous Author careful- 
 ly hijd, couragioufly takes upon him to cenfure the States-Gcneral. 
 
 X See Vol. II. p. 460, and the twenty Pages following. 
 
 b 3 ters 
 
 xxil* 
 
XXX 
 
 / 
 
 To the R E A D E R. 
 
 ters into an ill Humour with me, and made 
 them take fome unjuft Liberties in their little 
 Satyrs, the World will give me Leave, I hope, 
 to fay here, that I may find a great deal of 
 Comfort, in having a Number of grave and 
 good Authors, that have been pleafed publicly 
 ly to honour me with * fome Approbation. I 
 dare not here give a Lift of all thofe that came 
 to my Knowledge, tho’ I could -f juftify my 
 Conduct in doing fo by many Examples ; and 
 even maintain it upon the Principle of a juft 
 Gratitude : But I cannot forbear taking Notice 
 in particular, of the obliging Terms in which 
 Mr Addifon has been pleafed to exprefs Limfelf, 
 in his Preface to the ingenious and learned Re- 
 lation that he has publifhed. For if, it is not 
 honourable to be praifed by thofe that are not 
 Praife- worthy themfelves, as faith our || Balzac, 
 ? tis alfo impoffible not to find a juft Satisfaction 
 in the advantagiousTeftimonies, that are given 
 us by Perfons of Wit, and Merit, 
 
 * I fee that Monfieur de Frefnoy , whofe very good Rook is juft 
 come to us from beyond Sea, is one of the moft favourable: But 
 I wifh'he had not made a miftaken Complaint of ourDealing with 
 his Catholicks. To fpeak freely, his belt Way was to have con- 
 curred with us, and all thofe 2 fome of his own Sett, who are en- 
 deavouring to difcredit fuch Superfticions, rather than to counte- 
 nance them. See Met ode pour itudier VHiftoire, pur Motif 
 Lemglet du Frefnoy, DoTiettr en Theol. A Bruxelles ; 1714. 
 
 f Neque enim vereor ne jattantior vidcar, cum de me aliorum 
 judicia, non meum profero. Plin. Secund. Lib. ix. Epijl. 23. 
 
 |! After Cicero: Ea eft profetto jucunda Laus quae ab his pro- 
 hchriiur, qui ipfi in Laude vivunt Bp. adM. Cat. Bam. L . vi. 
 
 THE 
 
( xxxi ) 
 
 THE 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 Firft FRENCH Edition. 
 
 HEN I undertook the Voyage de- 
 
 fcribed in the following Letters, I re- 
 folved to keep an exaft Journal of the moft 
 remarkable Things that lhould fall under my 
 Obfervation $ and fome of my Friends having 
 engaged me to communicate my Remarks to 
 them, from Time to Time, my intended Jour- 
 nal was infenfibly changed to Letters. 
 
 I will not trouble the Reader with an 
 Account of the Reafons that oblige me to 
 fuffer this little Work to appear in Publick : 
 But, perhaps, it will not be improper to in- 
 form him, why I thought fit to fend it abroad 
 in it’s native Drefs. The Style of the Letters 
 being concife, free, and familiar, was alfo in 
 all refpedts moft fuitable to my Defign. When 
 an Author undertakes to give a particular De- 
 fcription of any Subject on which he writes, 
 he is obliged to acquaint his Reader with all 
 it's Circumftances, and to omit nothing that 
 relates to it. But there is a very wide Diffe- 
 rence between an exadl Defcription of a Coun- 
 
 T O T H E 
 
 try, 
 
xxxii 
 
 The firfi PREFACE. 
 
 try, and the Remarks which a Traveller may 
 think fit to communicate in a Letter. 
 
 So that if it be objefted, that I have for-, 
 got to mention feveral Things that deferved to 
 be taken Notice of, I jfhali content, my felf 
 with making this fhort Reply, that, he who 
 promifes nothing, cannot be juftly accufed 
 of forgetting any Thing. Thefe are fami- 
 liar Letters, in which I do not in the leaft 
 oblige my felf to infert all that might be faid 
 of the Places mentioned in them : Only I re- 
 late what I have feen or heard from Perfons of 
 unqueftioned Credit ; and, in fhort, what I 
 thought fit to mention. 
 
 If it be further pretended, that I treat of 
 fome Things which were generally known be- 
 fore; I anfwer, That if all thofe who repeat 
 the Obfervations of others muft be condemned 
 without Mercy, by the fame Sentence moft 
 Books that are extant muft be doomed to the 
 Fire : For the new Difcoveries of a whole Age 
 would fcarce fill a fmall Volume. Every Man 
 has a different Way of expreffing hisThoughts, 
 and of reprefenting the Subjefts of which he 
 treats; which allows him the Privilege to 
 move the Bufinefs again. But not to, infift on 
 that Plea ; the Reader will find in. thefe Let- 
 ters an Account of Things that happened in 
 my Time, and of fome late Alterations, which 
 I cannot be fappofed to have borrowed from 
 thofe who wrote before me: So that the Book, 
 which I now offer to the Publick, may juftly 
 claim the Title of a new Work. And I’m 
 confident, it will be acknowledged as fuch, by 
 
The firjt PREFACE. xxxiii 
 
 all unprejudiced Perfons, who lhall confider, 
 either that I have added feveral new remarkable 
 Circumltances, or that I hare eftablifhed Ideas 
 that are more exa Q. than thofe I had received 
 from the Relations of others ; or, that I give 
 a quite different Account of the lame Subjects 
 that they have reprefented, before I fpoke of 
 them. And though I could not wholly omit 
 fomePaffages that had been formerly taken No- 
 tice of by other Authors, without fpoiling the 
 Connexion of the Parts of my Work, and de- 
 priving the future Traveller of Part of the Ad- 
 vantage which I hope he may receive from it ; 
 yet, upon a careful Examination, it will be 
 found that many of my Obfervations are really 
 new in all Relpedts. 
 
 I could not leave the Places through which 
 I paffed on the Road, without examining and 
 enquiring into the moft remarkable Things that 
 were to be found in them, and without giv- 
 ing fome Account of them. But fince the main 
 Defign of our Voyage was to fee Italy ; and 
 lince I have chiefly infilled on Obfervations I 
 made of that Country, I thought fit to give 
 that Title to the whole Work, which agrees 
 properly to the principal Part of it. 
 
 Of thofe who travel into Italy , fome have 
 made it almoll their only Bufinefs to enquire 
 after it’s Antiquities. Others have applied 
 themfelves wholly to the Study of Painting 
 and Architecture. There are fome who mind- 
 ed nothing but Libraries and Cabinets of Cu~ 
 riofities. And others fpent their Time in vi- 
 fiting Churches and Relicks. But my Curio- 
 
xxxiv The firft PREFACE. 
 
 fity was more univerfal, and would not fuffer 
 me to confine my Enquiries to one Subjedt ; 
 which gives my Letters the Advantage of Va- 
 riety, which, I hope, will not feem unplea- 
 fant to the Generality of Readers. 
 
 When I found myfelf under aSortof Ne- 
 ceffity to confent to the Publication of this 
 Work, I thought myfelf obliged to make it 
 ufeful to thofe who fhould afterwards under- 
 take the fame Voyage: And therefore I have 
 inferted feveral Paffages in thefe Letters, which 
 I did not think fit to mention when they were 
 only directed to particular Friends: And, in 
 Purfuance of the fame Defign, I have fubjoined 
 an Appendix at the End of the Book, contain- 
 ing Advices, or Inftrudlions to a Traveller. 
 
 T o fatisfy the Defires of thofe with whom 
 I entertained a Correfpondence during my Tra^ 
 vels, I was forced to give them an Account of 
 every Thing that I obferved, without omitting 
 even the leaft confiderable. But fince the Cu- 
 riofity of moft Readers extends not fo far, I 
 was loon perfuaded to comply with thofe who 
 advifed me to cut off feveral Paffages in my 
 Letters, which perhaps would not have been 
 efleemed deferving the Reader’s Attention. 
 For thofe who have the Happinefs to be Ma- 
 ilers of an univerfal Wit, and of an equally 
 folia and nice Judgment, are capable of mak- 
 ing Advantage of every Thing, and are ufually 
 fooner pleafed with them, than thofe who are 
 lefs beholding to Nature for the liberal Diftri- 
 bution of her Favours towards them. If it 
 be frill urged, that I have left feveral Paffages 
 
 which 
 
XXXV 
 
 The firfi PREFACE. 
 
 which might have been cut off with the reft ; 
 
 I muft beg Leave to tell thofe pretended Cii- 
 ticks, that they are very much miftaken, if 
 they imagine that nothing ought to be ad- 
 mitted into Works of this Nature, but what 
 is great and important. Thele are neither Ser- 
 mons nor Negotiations of Embaffadors ; and 
 th t which might be juftly called a Trifle in 
 sl Difcourfe upon a lofty Subject, deferves ano- 
 ther Title in fuch a Relation as this, and efpe- 
 cially in a Letter. Befides, there are fome 
 mean and leemingly trifling Things, which, 
 for a;i their Meannefs, are yet very pleafant 
 and diverting. The Publick has received fome 
 Relations very favourably, which take Notice 
 of the fmalleft Circumftances, not forgetting 
 even the Signs of Taverns ; neither indeed is 
 it juft to oblige a Traveller to relate nothing 
 but Prodigies. ’Tis true, he ought not to 
 fill his Journal with inflpid Gbfervations; but 
 there is hardly any Thing on which an exadt 
 and ingenious Perfon is not capable of making 
 Reflections. 
 
 1 have obferved, that thofe who fpeak of 
 Italy, are ufually full of Prejudices, in Favour 
 of that fine Country. Moft young Travel- 
 lers being perfuaded, that they fhall find there 
 an infinite Number of furprizing Rarities, go 
 thither with a Refolution to admire eveiy 
 Thing they meet: And all the Relations we 
 have of it, feem to have been defigned for 
 Panegyricks. The Fame of that Part of the 
 World has. been raifed fo high, and fo ftrong- 
 ly eftablilhed, that Tis efteemed an unpardon- 
 able 
 
Xxxvi 
 
 The firjt PREFACE. 
 
 able Crime to leflen it’s Reputation. The 
 Grandeur, for Example, and the almoft infi- 
 nite Magnificence of the celebrated City of 
 Rome , with the ancient Charms of Bajce and 
 Capua, infpire the Generality of Mankind with 
 a Veneration fora few Pieces of Marble, which 
 are the only Remainders of their Ruins ; tho* 
 *tis certain, that thofe Places, if we confider 
 them in their prefent Condition, are not at all 
 preferable to a va ft Number of others, which 
 are not fo ; much as taken Notice of in the 
 World. But there is alfo another Reafon, 
 which doubtlefs contributes very much to con- 
 firm Travellers in their Prejudices ; and that is y 
 the ufual Manner ii) which the Italians fpeak 
 of every Thing, in their Country. J Tis cer- 
 tain, that the People of that Nation, have fo 
 much Fire in their Imagination, and their 
 Phrafes are naturally fo ftrong and fignificative, 
 that they arefometimes apt to fpeak of Things 
 with too much Force. ’Tis true, they have 
 many foft and gay, not to fay apifh and 
 childifhExpreffions ; but when they change their 
 Style, they are apt to run to the other Ex- 
 tream, and, on a fudden, lofe themfelves in 
 wild and unnatural Hyperboles. This Humour 
 of th e-Italians by Degrees infers thofe Strangers 
 who refide among them; and in Conjunction 
 with their former Prejudices, prompts them to 
 make long and lofty Difcourfes on the moft in- 
 confiderable Subjects. The Obfervation of this 
 Fault in others, made me very careful to avoid 
 falling into the fame Errors : I examined 
 
 Things cooly, and fuffered thofe perpetual Ad- 
 mirers 
 
The Jirjl PREFACE. xxxvii 
 
 mirers to evaporate into fublime Figures, and 
 Exclamations of Wonder, without regarding 
 their pompous and fuperlative Expreffions* 
 
 But though I had not the Complaifance to ad- 
 mire every Thing which they extolled, I hope 
 I fhall not have the Misfortune to be accufed 
 of being poffeffed with a Prejudice, oppofite 
 to that which I blame in others ; for the equi- 
 table Reader will eafily perceive, that I take 
 Pleafure to do Juftice to thofe Things as well 
 as to thofe Perfons which I think deferve 
 Praife. 
 
 I wrote thefe Letters without confulting 
 the Authors who have treated of the fame 
 Subjedt before me : For befides that the Hurry 
 of travelling made fuch a Defign impractica- 
 ble, I could not have received much Benefit 
 by it, fince, as I intimated before, I intended 
 only to relate what I faw, or learned, without 
 engaging in a particular and exadt Defcription 
 of the Country. I thought fit to make this 
 ingenuous Declaration, that if any Paffages in 
 this Work be found to be inconfiftent with the 
 Relation of others, I may not be accufed of 
 taking Pleafure to contradidj: them ; for I only 
 give a lincere and natural Account of my own 
 Obfervations, or of what I heard from Perfons 
 of unfufpedted Credit, without the leafl De- 
 fign to offend any Man whatfoever. 
 
 I hope every candid Reader will make a 
 Diftinction between thofe Things which I af- 
 firm pofitively, and thofe which are ufhered in 
 with a y tis j'aid ; though even in thefe Cafes I 
 £jave related nothing but what is grounded on 
 
xxxviii The fir ft P R E F A C E. 
 
 the general Opinion, and was never contradh 
 &ed by any with whom I have had Occahon 
 toconverfe: Tho’, after all, I would not be 
 obliged to warrant the Truth of thele common 
 Reports, which very often prove to be common 
 Lies. 
 
 T o avoid the Confulion occafioned by the 
 various Length of * Leagues and Miles in Ger- 
 many ; I ufually exprefs the Distance of Places 
 by the Number of Hours that are commonly 
 fpent in travelling between them ; and if at any 
 Time I make ufe of the Word League, I un- 
 derstand an Hour’s Journey. The Italian 
 Miles are generally known, and need no Ex- 
 plication; only the Reader may take Notice* 
 that two Miles in Piedmont make almoft three 
 after the ordinary Way of reckoning; and that 
 the MJl es of Lombardy are the fhorteft of alh 
 I fhaU only add, that when I meafure any Di- 
 ftanpe by a certain Number of Paces, I mean 
 the Steps I ufually make in walking. 
 
 * According to Mr Cafimifi s Calculation, the/fo/zV#Mile is Fivii 
 thoufand Ro?nan Foot; and the Englijh Mile Five thoufand four 
 hundred and fifty four. 
 
 According to the Calculation’ of Mr Picard , of the Academy* 
 of Sciences, a Degree contains twenty great French Leagues ; 
 and Leagues at Sea : Twenty five common Leagues : And twenty 
 eight Parifian Leagues and a Quarter : Sixty three Florence Miles 
 and /o ; and Threefcore and thirteen Englijh Miles and T £y. 
 
 THIS 
 
( xxxix ) 
 
 THIS PREFACE was added 
 to the Former , in the Third 
 French Edition of thefe Let- 
 ters, in 1698 . 
 
 S EVERAL Perfons to whom I comma- The fol- 
 nicated the Intention I had to inlarge this 1 ° wi t n | P *° 
 new Edition, being of Opinion, that, as my out of the 
 Reflections had appeared defective, in refpeCt Two laft 
 of what they call Politicks, and the Govern- ditiont, 
 ment of thofe States through which I have tra- had been 
 veiled; and that I have fcarce taken any parti- ^e 20 ^- 
 cular Notice of the Libraries, nor of the Man- Hfh , , by m- 
 ners and Cuftoms of the People ; they there- adve ^en- 
 fore thought it would not be amifs to infert y 0 i. 11, 
 feveral of thofe Things in thofe Additions. pag- 
 However, the P.eader finding, notwithfland- ^ c * 
 ing this Advice feemed reafonable, that I have 
 not clofely followed the fame, will doubtlefs 
 expeCt that I fhould fay fomething here in Ju- 
 ftification of my ConduCh 
 
 T o obferve in general, that a State is mo- 
 narchical or democratical, that a Prince has 
 fuch or fuch Prerogatives, that there are in 
 the Republick a certain Number of Councils, 
 compofed of certain Perfons, &c . this, with- 
 out any farther Particulars, is flat, infipid, and 
 
 ufelefs. 
 
The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 ufelefs, when one ipeaks of neighbouring, 
 and confequently known Countries. And 
 to give Account of the Things fecreted, one 
 mull make it his particular Bufinefs, and en- 
 deavour to reprefent all Things Cxa&ly ; as 
 Monfieur Amelot , for Example, has described 
 the Government of Venice . But doubtlefs, a 
 Man who travels through forty or fifty difc 
 ferent States, in twelve or fifteen Months 
 Time, has neither Time nor Conveniency to 
 undertake fuch a Talk; and it would be very 
 unjuft to exadt fuch a Thing from him. A 
 Stranger ought not, nor is not able to dive 
 into the Maxims and Interefts of Princes, or 
 the myfterious Intrigues of the Miniftry be- 
 caufe he can very feldom, if ever, meet with 
 an Acquaintance that is able or willing to 
 give him a right Information of thofe fecret 
 Things. A Traveller has a thoufand other 
 Things upon his Hands, and has not the hun- 
 dredth Part of the Time required for fuch an 
 Enterprize. I know how it hath happened to 
 feveral Perfons, who affedting to be Politicians ; 
 in that Regard, have precipitately delivered the 
 chimerical Speculations which they have cre- 
 duloufly taken upon Report. We mu ft then 
 leave fuch Penetrations to thofe who have 
 Time and Conveniency to fearch into Secrets ; 
 as for Example, to Embafladors, and other 
 publick Minifters, who refide in the Places, 
 fend their Spies, wheedle fome, and bribe ou- 
 tliers with Money. It is, in my Opinion, very 
 imprudent to meddle with fuch Things, and 
 
xli 
 
 The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 run the Rifque of faying nothing, but what's 
 * falfe, or uncertain. * foffeve' 
 
 The World then can expeCt but little, r o, °non fo 
 upon this Sort of Politicks, from thofe who farebbe il 
 travel as we did. But it is true, that in the Pop0i0, 
 Opportunity which prefents itfelf to them in 
 the Courts of Princes, to obferve certain Cir- 
 cumftances, and even, fometimes, new and 
 lingular Adventures, they may make Ufe of 
 thefe Sorts of Things, by the fkilful and ju- 
 dicious Applications which they may make 
 of them. But thofe Strokes, that ought to be 
 very delicate, are not always perceived ; and 
 as every Body does not fee them, it often hap- 
 pens, that thofe whom we had in View, in 
 our fecret Cenfure, either do . not really feel 
 any Thing of what touches them ; or elfe, 
 they make as if they did not perceive it : 
 fo that one may fay, in both RefpeCts, that 
 Narratur Fabula fur do \ witnefs the New 
 Telemachus. And one may even fay, that 
 thefe Reflections, notwithftanding the Dexte- 
 rity of him that makes them, irritating thofe 
 that are concerned in them, become frequently 
 more hurtful than they are profitable. I leave 
 it to the underftanding Perfons to judge of the 
 feveral Things they will meet with in thefe 
 Letters, concerning this Sort of political Re- 
 flections. 
 
 I will here add by the By, that it is 
 a very great Error in Abundance of Perfons, 
 to imagine that thofe that lead a private Life, 
 
 Vol. I, c ought 
 
The fecond PREFACE. , 
 
 ought never to concern, themfelves with the 
 publick Affairs of their Country. Every one 
 ought to adt more or lefs, and to contribute 
 according to his Power, towards the general 
 Good, in his Sphere and Condition. Private 
 Perfons have no other Way than that of Re- 
 queft, and Reprefentation, unlefs they love 
 that of Flight better; but it is lawful for them 
 to fpeak, either by Petitions, or by Advice : 
 And if what they fay, be reafonable, they 
 ought to be hearken’d to : For it is an Axiom 
 of the natural Right, among all Nations in 
 - the World, that Quod o mites tangit ab Omni- 
 bus traffiari debet. Whoever has a Right to the 
 Sun, and the Air, whether he be an Hermite, 
 or a Minifter of State, has alfo a Right to ufe 
 his Endeavours to fupport the publick Good, 
 as being one of the Members of the Body : 
 ’Tis his Duty to do fo, for his own juft Inte- 
 reft. Peace and War are the Affairs of every 
 Citizen, as well as of thofe who are at the 
 Helm of Government. The Fleets are his 
 Fleets, and the Armies are his Armies, fince 
 he contributes towards them ; and fince upon 
 their good or ill Succefs, depends either his 
 Ruin or Profperity : If the Prince’s Ear ought 
 to be open to hear either his Complaints, or 
 his Evidences, or his Difcoveries, it is reafona- 
 ble it Ihould alfo be open to his good Council ; 
 and then Politicks, and Religion, that is to 
 lay, what regards the Tranquillity of the pre- 
 fen t Life, and the Happinefs of the Life here- 
 after, are the two great Employments of the 
 
 Mind 
 
The fecond PREFACE. xliii 
 
 Mind of thole that are wile. Men pafs their 
 Days lamentably in the Search after Things 
 which are vain, how fine foever there Ap- 
 pearance may be ; and let alone thofe that are 
 necefiary. 
 
 I shall here take Notice of another Rafh- 
 nefs, of which many Travellers are guilty: 
 
 They frequently prefume without any Exami- 
 nation, or fufficient Information, to afcertain , 
 the Revenues of Princes ; after they have rid 
 Poll through fome Part of their Dominions. 
 
 To pretend to decide fuch Things, when there 
 is not the leaft Probability that one could 
 have informed himfelf of them, is to love 
 rather to be heard by fimple and ignorant 
 People, than to acquire the Approbation of 
 fenfible Men. 
 
 The Libraries are not fo inaccefiible as the 
 Clofets of Kings and Privy-Councils ; for they 
 are commonly publick : but yet they do not 
 expofe all their Rarities to the View of every 
 one. All Manufcripts are not to be feen by 
 all Comers : And they often refufe, particu- 
 larly in Italy, or at leaft Hum to Ihew a Tra- 
 veller, if he has not a very ftrong Recom-^ 
 mendation, thole Things from which they 
 believe any Advantage may be drawn again ft 
 the Roman Religion. I have endeavoured two 
 feveral Times to fee an Anajlajhis which is cer- 
 tainly in the Library of St Ambrofius at Milan , 
 and wherein I know is to be found the Hi- 
 ftory of Pope Joan. But having been obliged 
 to anfwer to the Queftion, Quid fentis de Fide 
 c 2 Catholic a ? 
 
The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 Catholic a ? That is to fay, Of what Religion 
 are you ? Or rather, not having anfwered any 
 Thing, they told me, that that Manufcript was 
 not to be feen. If one therefore would make 
 fome Difcoveries, or draw fome curious Col- 
 lections from the Manufcripts that are in the 
 Libraries, he wants Time and Conveniencies 
 which thofe who travel, as it appears by the 
 Date of my Letters that I have done, cannot 
 obtain. He muft have a great deal ofLea- 
 fure ; he muft get a particular Acquaintance 
 with the Library-keeper ; he muft not be 
 fufpedted by him, efpecially if Matters of Re- 
 ligion be in queftion; and befides, he muft 
 meet with a true Library- keeper, that is to 
 fay, with an officious and learned Man; where- 
 as, commonly, if he ftays but a little while, 
 he is received at fit ft by a Sort of Door- 
 keeper, who hath neither Underftanding, nor 
 any particular Knowledge of the Library ; and 
 who is always frowning and gaping till he 
 has received the "Tejlons , or the Julios that 
 are ufually given him. Who fhail impartially 
 confider this, will, I hope, in fome Meafure 
 be contented with what I have been able to 
 give him, and will not upbraid me with Re- 
 proaches ; which would be the more unjuft, 
 becaufe if I have made no better Advantage 
 of the Libraries which I have feen, I am the 
 greateft Lofer. Neither will they draw an 
 unreafonable Confequence from the little 
 Knowledge that I could have acquired of 
 them, againft the other Oblervations which 
 
 I have 
 
The fecond P R E FACE. 
 
 I have made, and of which I fpeak politlvely, 
 as if I could not be better informed of one 
 Thing than of another. There are fome Things 
 that muft be fought after to know them, and 
 that, with Care and Pains; there are fome 
 Things that muft be enquired after, which are 
 eafily found; and there are others, that offer 
 themfelves to View, fo that one has no other 
 Trouble than to look upon them. ’Tis true, 
 that I have fcarce pried into the firft, for 
 want of Time, and other requifite Means; 
 but it was eafy to me to come to the Know- 
 ledge of feveral of the others; and above all, 
 to confider and to defcribe what has pre- 
 fen ted itfelf to my View. For this Reafon 
 I carefully made a Diftinftion in the Begin- 
 ning of this Book, between a Defcription and 
 a Relation. 
 
 As to what relates to the Manners and 
 Cuftoms of People, ’tis plain, that if one 
 defigns to do them Juftice, and to fpeak no- 
 thing of them but the Truth, he muft have 
 had much Converfation with thole of whom 
 he undertakes to fpeak ; and above all, if he 
 intends to defcend to Particulars. That which 
 has made me very circumfped:, and very clofe 
 upon this Point, is the ill Judgment that I 
 fee many People have made in the Relations 
 they have publifhed. For Example, if Dr Sprat, 
 late Bifhop of Rochejler , had been afked 
 about what Sorliere hath faid of the Manners 
 of the Englijh , and of feveral other Things 
 which that Traveller hath obferved in Eng- 
 
 c 3 land. 
 
5a co 
 
 xlvi 
 
 ! In his 
 urvey 
 ranee . 
 
 or 
 
 The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 land . he would have laid, that that Man fan lies 
 Chimeras, and knows not, moft Times, what 
 he fays. And if one fhould afk M. M. what 
 
 he thinks of what D. P. H hath * writ 
 
 of the Cuftbms of the French , he would have 
 ftill a lefs Efteem of him than the Docftor had 
 of the other. To fpeak fincerely, ’tis pity that 
 that Man, who is otherwife learned, and de- 
 fences good Efteem, fhould be fo blinded 
 with innate Prejudice againft the French , that 
 he conceives but wrong Notions of them. He 
 judges of every Thing that is done in France 
 by what he finds upon his Arrival at Diepe ; 
 And his Antipathy being conftantly working 
 on him, like a burning and raging Fever, 
 one may fee that it is. againft his Nature, 
 when he is forced to .fpeak well even of thofe 
 who have done him Kindneffes ; and that he 
 is in his Element, when in general, and ac- 
 cording to his Cuftom, he fpeaks ill of all. 
 I never met with any Man fo terrible upon 
 this Point, tho’ at the fame Time, I have feen 
 few People but who are fick of the fame Di- 
 ftemper when they come to fpeak of the Man- 
 ners and Cuftoms of foreign Nations. I dare 
 fay, that the Silence which I have almoft al- 
 ways obferved upon this Point, does not pro- 
 ceed from the Fear I have had of the ill Ef- 
 fects of my Prejudice, being, I believe, as 
 much upon my Guard, as any Man can be, 
 againft that Enemy of Realbn and Truth ; 
 and my Exile haying on the other Hand made 
 me fenfible enough, that I have no parti- 
 cular 
 
The Jecond PREFACE. xlvii 
 
 cular Country here below : But I thought, 
 that not having had Time enough to confi- 
 der thofe Sorts of Things attentively, I could 
 not undertake to fpeak much of them with- 
 out running the Rifque of faking into many 
 Miftakes. 
 
 I am alfo upbraided with other Negleds. 
 
 I have fcarce met with any Body but who has 
 told me, that I had forgot fomething very 
 remarkable ; or that I have fpoke very indif- 
 ferently of fome Things that deferved great 
 Praifes, I anfwered thofe People, Firjl, that 
 I had forgot nothing at all, feeing I had not 
 undertaken any Defcription, as I have already 
 given Notice enough: And, * Secondly, I have 
 reprefen ted to them, that it was none of my 
 Fault if their Fancy was fo depraved as to look 
 upon common Things as if they were fo many 
 Wonders. Thus, when a German of Frankfort 
 feemed to me to be very much furprized, that 
 I had taken no Notice of the new Lutheran 
 Church there ; and that a Swifs of Bern tefti- 
 fied as great a Surprize, that I had not made 
 the leaft Mention of the Sculptures on the 
 Portal of the great Church there, fo much 
 admired by the thirteen Cantons: I told the 
 firft, that if I had been obliged to mention all 
 the Edifices that I had feen, which much fur- 
 paffed the Lutheran Church at Frankfort , both 
 in Largenefs and Magnificence, I mud: have 
 enlarged my Book to feveral Volumes: And I 
 defired the other to confider, that thofe Sculp- 
 tures that the common People of Switzer - 
 
 land 
 
xlviii The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 land extol fo much, were but in very little 
 Efteem with People who underftand thefe 
 Things. Every one commonly has a good 
 Opinion of what is his own, and of what he 
 has at home; of what he has admired, or 
 heard to be admired from his Infancy : Or, one 
 praifes that which he knows to be moft de- 
 ierving, without informing himfelf if there 
 be any other Thing more Praife-worthy than 
 what he knows. Thus, a Clown, who has 
 never been out of his poor Cottage, fanfies 
 that the old mined Caftle of the Lord of the 
 Manor, and the old Tapeftry which has hung 
 there an hundred and fifty Years, in Spite of 
 Rats and Spiders, are the fineft Things in the 
 World. It is not the fame with a Man who 
 hath been a little abroad. When one has feen 
 many Things of the fame Nature, he takes no 
 Notice of fome of them, and fpeaks of others 
 by the juft Comparifon he makes of them to- 
 gether. If I fhould praife the Churches of Ant- 
 werp fo very much, where fhould I find Terms 
 for thole of Rome and Naples ? One muft there- 
 fore diftribute Praifes. according to the different 
 Merit : He who never faw a Steeple but that 
 of his own Village, muft not fay, that it is 
 the higheft in whole World. 
 
 Some People have alfo laid, that there are 
 many Things in this Relation, which, accord- 
 ing to their Judgment, are not fo important 
 as to deferve to be mentioned. I thought I 
 had faid enough in the Preface, that precedes 
 this, to prevent fuch an Objection ; but I defire 
 
The fecondV REF ACE. xlix 
 
 the Reader to perufe what I have further ad- 
 ded, to remove thefe Cenfures, in my Letter to 
 Mr Waring at the End of the Firft Volume. 
 
 Most of the young Gentlemen who are 
 fent by their Parents into Italy, are Children 
 who think more of eating, playing, and deep- 
 ing, than to enquire much about Rarities. 
 
 Thofe who are of that Humour need no other 
 Advice but this, to carry good Wine, a Bed, 
 and Cards along with them ; or rather, not to 
 go from home, where they can have all thofe 
 Things more conveniently than in any other 
 Place. But there are fome others who are of 
 a much different Difpofition, w 7 ho love to in- 
 ftrutft themfelves carefully in every Thing; and 
 who paffionately feek after all poffible Means 
 for their Inftrudlion ; and greedily embrace 
 the fame, when found. The Objedl ftirs up 
 their firft Defire, and excites fuch a Curiofity 
 in their Mind, that they would willingly fwal- 
 low down all the Books that treat of Towns, 
 and other Places which they vifit, to be ex- 
 aftly and the more informed of them. ’Tis for 
 their Sake, that I have added abundance of 
 Things in this new Edition; and particularly 
 in the Advices which I had already given to 
 Travellers; hoping that thofe Things will be 
 fatisfaftory to them, and fave them a great deal 
 of Time. 
 
 I don’t believe it is neceffary to enlarge my 
 felf very much here, to give the Reader an 
 Account of feveral new Pieces, which he may 
 find at the End of thefe Volumes. The Divifion 
 
 of 
 
1 
 
 * This is 
 fa id of 
 the third 
 French 
 Edition. 
 
 The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 of the * three Tomes, having thro’ Inadverten- 
 cy, been made very unequal, the Bookfeller 
 defired me to give him fomething to add to 
 the leaft, in order to make it near as big as the 
 two others. The Truth is, that my firft 
 Defign has been to fatisfy him : But here I 
 cannot but be perfuaded, that this Mixture of 
 Things, which have all Relation to fome one of 
 thofe mentioned in the Body of the Work, and 
 which ferve to* confirm or illuftrate them, 
 will be as favourably received as any other. 
 I had a Mind to have added a fhort Differtatioii 
 upon the Unicorn, upon Account of what I 
 have faid of that pretended Animal, when I 
 mentioned the famous Cabinet of M. Sett ala. 
 But I underftand, as 1 am writing this, that 
 the Impreffion of the Book is finifhed, fo that 
 I find myfelf obliged to refer it to another 
 Time. I (hall only tell the Reader here, that 
 I was deceived with Olaus Magnus , and fome 
 others, when I gave the Name of Horn , in the 
 firft Edition of this Book, to that which was 
 really the Tooth of a Fifh. For I don’t think 
 that Camerarius is in the right, to embrace the 
 Opinion of Bodin , who believes, that the Teeth 
 of the Elephant itfelf ought to be called Horns ; 
 becaufe, as he fays, their Root proceeds from 
 the Brain. Therefore that Thing which is vul- 
 garly called the Horn of the Unicorn, is a 
 Tooth, and comes out of the Jaw-bone of a 
 Fifh, which is very well known in the North 
 Seas, by the Name of Towak, zsQlearius fays. 
 And we muft not confound this Fifh with an- 
 other 
 
li 
 
 The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 other that has a Sort of ftraight Horn in the 
 Middle of his Forehead, and which is defcribed 
 by many Naturalifts and Travellers. By this 
 I acknowledge the Error I have been drawn 
 into ; but after all, perlift in what I have al- 
 ready faid, that the Unicorns are nothing 
 but Chimera’s. I know that Meffieurs Bartho- 
 lin, the Father and the Son, who are, equally 
 curious and learned, have endeavoured to prove 
 the Exigence of that Animal 5 and I have con- 
 fiderately read what they have writ of it : But, 
 1 hope, they’ll give me Leave to fay the fame 
 of their Proofs and Reafons, as I have taken 
 the Liberty to fay of thofe of Blondel againft 
 the Shee-Pope. 
 
 T HA T Woman puts me in mind of a 
 Thing which I ffall willingly infert here , feeing 
 it now offers itfelf and which may be reckoned 
 one of the firongejl Arguments to convince the 
 World , that the Female Pope is not a Chimcera 
 like the Unicorn . ’ Tis an AbflraB of the Chro- 
 
 nicle of the ancient Monaftery of Canterbury, 
 founded by the famous * Auguftin, who was fent 
 into England by Gregory the Great, and alfo 
 was called the Apoftle of Kent. Immediately 
 after the Tear 853, in the Catalogue of the Bi- 
 ff ops of Rome, the Chronicle mentions thefe Words, 
 
 Hie obiit LEO Quartus, cujus tamen anni 
 ufqueadBenedidtum tertium computantur, 
 cd quod Mulier in Papam promota fuit. 
 
 * He was 
 afterwards 
 made 
 Arclibi- 
 fhop of 
 Canterbu- 
 ry 
 
 i 
 
 AND 
 
lii 
 
 The fecond PREFACE. 
 
 AND after the Tear 855. 
 
 JOANNES . Ifte non computatur, quia 
 Foemina fuit. 
 
 BENEDICTUS Tertius, &c. 
 
 AN Englifh. Divine of extraordinary Learn- 
 ing and Merit , hath lately writ a Book, which 
 is not yet printed , to prove that there was a 
 female Pope, wherein he makes u/e of the Strength 
 of this Lejiimony admirably well ; and makes it 
 appear , that thofe belonging to that Monaftery 
 had a frequent and intimate Commerce with 
 Rome: And that thofe Words which 1 have juft 
 now quoted after him, were regiflered at the 
 Lime fpecified by the Date . 
 
 As the Additions in thefe Two Volumes, have been made at 
 feveral Times, we fee now it has happened through Forget fulnefs, 
 that fome few Matters, or Reflections almoit the fame, have 
 been brought in twice ; for which fmall Miftake, we beg the 
 Reader's Indulgence, and defire him not to take thefe two or three 
 Kinds of Repetitions, as if they had been made with any De- 
 flgn : And efpecially that which concerns a modern Author, ia 
 the Second Volume ; Pages 22, and 597. 
 
 A NEW 
 
[ * ] 
 
 A NEW 
 
 VO Y A G E 
 
 t o 
 
 ITALY 
 
 To D. W. Efq- y 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 H OLLAND is a Country fo near, and 
 fo well known to yours, that I fhould, 
 perhaps, havefaid nothing of it, had 
 not yourexprefs Commands obliged 
 me to it. In Compliance therefore with your 
 Defires, I will endeavour to give you an Idea of 
 this uncommon Country.*, with fome particular 
 Remarks concerning the Cities I fhall have occa- 
 fion to fee. But I mult firft tell you, that there 
 are fo many Things in Holland that deferve to be 
 feen by every curious Perfon, and can hardly be 
 feen any where elfe, that I think it impoflible 
 you fhould decline making a Voyage thither. 
 The Pafiage over is butfhort, and you will have 
 V o l. I, B a thoufand 
 
2 A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 a thoufand Opportunities to render it convenient. 
 Therefore, being perfuaded, that you will not 
 fail, one Day, to fatisfy fo reafonablea Curiofi- 
 ty, I ffiall not entertain you fo largely as I 
 might, with an Account of thofe charming Pro- 
 vinces, wherein I have formerly, for fome time, 
 fojourned. 
 
 A s we approached thefe Coafts, we perceived, 
 even at the neareft Didance, the Tops of the 
 Trees, and of the Steeples, as if they iflfued out 
 of a Land funk under Water \ for Holland is uni- 
 verfally flat and low, as a continued Meadow* 
 It is cut into Canals and large Ditches, to re- 
 ceive and drain the Waters, which otherwife 
 would make the Land too moift -, and there are 
 but few Places that can be ploughed. A Coun- 
 try like this is not naturally habitable *, yet In- 
 duftry, conftant Labour, and the Love of Pro- 
 fit, have brought it into fuch a State, that there 
 is not in the World, one fo Rich, and fo well 
 * Puffendorf. peopled, proportionably to it’s Extent : * Some 
 Others pretend affirming, that the little Province of Holland 
 mat the Seven a j one ^ CO ntains more than Two Millions and 
 
 gecher^do not Five Hundred Thoufand Souls. 
 
 contain mere 
 
 than Two Millions of Inhabitants. It is difficult for a private Per fon, and efpe- 
 daily for a Stranger, to be well informed of thefe kind of Things. See Vojfius . 
 
 + Tire United The Cities are, as it were -f* linked together ; 
 
 oreCity'of the and we ma 7 % that the Y are a11 ° f a fy^ling 
 lirft Rank, viz. Beauty. The more we confider them, the more 
 jtmfterd' m. agreeable we find them. || Great Care is taken 
 
 AboveTvventy 
 
 of the fecond Rank," which, may be compared with the great Cities of Franc?, 
 after Paris More than Thirty of the Third, which are equal to Parma and 
 Modena. Above Two Hundred great Boroughs, and more than Eight Hundred 
 Villages. G.L, ... 
 
 |j There is no lefs Curiofity and Neatnefs in their Ships, than in their 
 Houfes. This Cleanlinefs , xtends throughout : You may find it in the Stables, 
 where the Cows Tails are tyed up with a little Cord to the Roof, left they 
 fhould* defile themfelves. They wafh all, and lcour all the Walls, Moveabies, 
 dQteniils in the Houfes.' It would be well if they could w’afh the Water it 
 fdf, which is, indeed, very thick and nafly in many Canals. to 
 
Part L to ITALY. 
 
 to keep their Houfes neat and fine, both within 
 and without, they wafli them, and paint the ve- 
 ry Bricks over from time to time ; fo that they 
 always look new. The Doors and the Windows 
 are commonly of hewn Stone or Marble *, the 
 Infide of the Shops, and lower Rooms, even with 
 the common Tradefmen, are alio generally lined 
 with fine fquare Delft Tiles. All the Glafs- 
 Windows fhine like Cryftal : Every Window 
 hath it’s Shutters, which being ufually painted 
 red or green, make altogether a Mixture mod 
 pleafant to the Sight. 
 
 The Streets are fo clean, that the Women 
 walk abroad in Slippers all the Year. The Ca- 
 nals are often adorn’d with two Rows of Trees* 
 which make a delightful Shade, and a lovely 
 Walk on each fide of the Streets. This is, in 
 fome meafurc, a general Idea, not only of the 
 Cities, but alfo of the Towns and Villages •, for 
 the fame Order and Neatnefs is to be feen through- 
 out. 
 
 The mod ufual way of Travelling, is by the 
 Canals •, and nothing can be more convenient. 
 The Boats are drawn by Horfes, and go off at 
 Set Hours. You are feated as quietly in them 
 as if you were at home, and fheltered both from 
 Rain and Wind : So that you may go from one 
 Country to another, almod without perceiving 
 that you are out of the Houfe. When the Ca- 
 nals are frozen, the Skates and the Sledges ferve 
 inftead of the Boats ; and this new way of Tra- 
 velling is a new Pleafure. Thofe who Aide fkiL 
 fully on Skates, will out-run the Pod-Horfes, 
 and even fome will undertake to go a League 
 in lefs than Ten Minutes. Thus you fee how 
 commodious the Canals are, but this is not the 
 only Ufe : For they ferve to drain the Waters % 
 and are alfo ufeful for Traffick, and the Carriage 
 B a ®f 
 
4- A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 of Goods as well as Perfons. The Earth which 
 they take out, raifes the Banks, and makes the 
 Ways more convenient for thofe who travel on 
 Foot ; they ferve both for Inclofure and Orna- 
 ment. Infome Places they have fome forts of Fifh. 
 
 Abundance of Things are naturally wanting 
 in Holland : But foreign Countries plentifully fup- 
 ply them with Corn, as well as Wines, and all 
 the other Neceftaries and Conveniencies of Life. 
 All the World knows how far their Trade ex- 
 tends : And it may well be faid, that as it part- 
 ly gave the original Strength to this State, fo it 
 is fall it’s principal or only Support. Every Man 
 in Holland is a kind of amphibious Creature, 
 equally accuftom’d both to Sea and Land. I 
 * TheNumber remember I have read in a good Author, That 
 of Veffels, m ^ pq e p rov i nce hath more * Shipping than all 
 
 Opinion, is the rdt or Europe, 
 
 efteemed fo great, that it is thought to equal all the reft of Europe together. 
 Card. Bentivoglio. Puffendorf faith the lame ; and others have written, that 
 the United Provinces have more Ships than Houfes. I cannot think any Per- 
 fon hath exa&ly calculated them ; every one fpeaks as he imagines, or hath 
 •heard ; lo that little heed, is to be given to Difcourfes of this Nature. 
 
 I t is true, that if, on one fide, the Sea is the 
 Caufe of all the Riches of Holland , it mud alfo be 
 confefs’d, that it hath fometimes caufed terrible 
 Damages. It is (lopp’d with Banks of Earth, 
 which they call Dams, and all Care imaginable 
 is taken to maintain them. They have Mills to 
 empty the Water, and ufe all imaginable Indu- 
 f On the 17th, ft r y t0 P revent Mifchief, or to remedy it when 
 of April 1420! it happens. Yet fome Places of thefe Banks are 
 or 1421. vid, often broken, and the Inundations have made 
 ( Gerbr C ° n One mo ^ f ur * ous Ravages. So that, with refpeft to 
 hundred thorn the i Sea, they may well ufe the Device of a 
 land People were drowned at Dort , and thereabouts. 1446, There were Fif- 
 teen Pari flies drowned, Seb. Munfier . The Sea carry ed away 121 Houfes of 
 the Village of S'chevcling. An. 1574. J.Parrival. At prefent the Church 
 U near the Sea, whereas formerly it was in the midft of the -Village. 
 
 Torch 
 
Part I. ITALY. Rotterdam. 
 
 Torch invert. That which feeds me kills me. This 
 is the fatal Mifchief of Holland, a dreadful In- 
 conveniency, of which all that can be faid is. 
 That they labour to help it as much as they can ; 
 fc|ut, after all, they can never reflore the drowned 
 Cities, nor the Lives of many Thoufandsof Men, 
 who have, from time to time, perifhed by thefe 
 Deluges. 
 
 I r is not without fome Regret that I difturb 
 your former and more pleafmg Idea’s ; but I 
 fanfy that, to comprehend Things well, we mult 
 know both what’s for, and what’s againft them. 
 This Defedt is not accompanied with many 
 others. ’Tis true, the Air is no where very good. 
 Sometimes in the laired Weather it fuddenly be- 
 comes cold, and this unequality admits of no 
 great Difference between the Summer and Winter 
 Cloaths. * The Impofitions are great, which 
 partly caufe the Dearth of Victuals : But the 
 People of this Country, who are born under that 
 Yoke, and whom their great Trade hath made 
 live at eafe, fcarce think of it. I confefs I fhould 
 not long admire thofe continued Meadows of 
 which Holland is compofed : They feem fine 
 enough for a few Hours, but one grows weary 
 of their perpetual Uniformity : And I am per- 
 fuaded the Variety of your Country of Kent muft 
 pleafe you better. 
 
 W e were at once furprized and charm’d at the 
 firft thing which we obferved at our Arrival at 
 Rotterdam. This City having this lingular Qua- 
 lification, that many of it’s Canals are broad and 
 deep enough to receive the greatefl Veffels ; no- 
 thing can be compared with the pleafant Mixture 
 of Chimnies, Tops of Trees, and Streamers of 
 Veffels. One is aftonifbed at the Port to behold 
 fo, beautiful a Confufion •, and can hardly tell 
 whether it be a Fleet, a City, or a Foreft ; or 
 P> 3 rather 
 
 * The Gabel 
 of Salt is the 
 leaft confldera- 
 ble ; Salt coils 
 butTwo-pence 
 orThree- pence 
 the Pound of 
 fixteenOunces. 
 The greatefl: 
 Impofts are on 
 Wine, Beer, 
 and Corn. 
 
6 
 
 ROTTER- 
 
 DAM. 
 
 * 1687, 
 
 Rotterdam. A New Voyage Vol. 1 
 
 rather fees what is feldom heard of, a Meeting 
 of thofe three things, the Sea, a City, and 
 Land. 
 
 ROTTERDAM was not reckon’d as one of theCi- 
 ties of the Province called Principal , becaufe it hath 
 not been always in fuch a flourifhing Condition 
 as it is at prefent ; yet, without doubt, it ought to 
 be efteemedthe fecond of the firft Rank, whereas 
 now it is but the firft of the fecond. It’s Port is 
 very commodious and fair, being always filled 
 and encom palled with Shipping, and it’s Trade 
 increafes daily. It is large, populous, rich, and 
 pleafant, and as I mention’d before, with few 
 Exceptions, Since the Country is flat, I need 
 not tell you that the Cities are fo too. 
 
 The Magazines for the Equipping of Ships, 
 the Town-houfe, and that of the Bank, are very 
 fine Strudlures. When we went to fee the 
 Glafs-houle, we found them at Work on little 
 enameU’d Bowls, and I know not how many 
 Children’s Baubles, with which they drive a great 
 Trade amongft the Savages. Alfo near this, we 
 faw the curious Works in Paper of the Sieur Van 
 Vliet j as Ships, Palaces, and whole Landfcapes in 
 a fort of Baffo relievo ; all, as they fay, done and; 
 in-laid with the Point of a Pen-knife. 
 
 There are at * prefent two French Churches 
 at Rotterdam ; which the Magiftrates take a parti- 
 cular Care to feefurnifh’d withMinifters of exem- 
 plary Merit. It is certain, that this City is be- 
 come famous for it’s learned Men, as well as for 
 it’s Trade and Beauty, It is from hence we had 
 that ufeful and efteem’d Work, Les IStouvelles de 
 la Republique des Lettres. I might even fay, a 
 Work which is very much to be lamented, fince 
 the Indifpofition of the Author gives us reafonto 
 fear he will be no more able to apply himfelf 
 to fo painful an Undertaking ; I am inform’d, 
 
 that 
 
7 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Rotterdam. 
 
 that Mr Bafnage de Beauval intends to continue it. 
 
 He is endow’d with a great deal of good Litera- 
 ture and extraordinary Wit, and all the Sagacity 
 that is necefiary to make a right Judgment of 
 Books. 
 
 The brazen Statue of Erafmus is in the Place They ere&ed 
 called the Great Bridge. This Statue is on a Pe- J 11S s - atue m 
 dedal of Marble, encompaffed with Rails of Iron. * Onein 
 
 Erafmus is in a Dodtor’s Habit, with a Book in Stone, Anno 
 his Hand. Hard by, you may fee the Houfe in i S57* and at 
 which he was born •, it is very little, and the ^ ^ , 
 
 following Diftich is written on the Door. is^obe Teenat 
 
 prefent) Anno 
 
 Al dibus his ortus , Mundum decoravit Erafmus , l6z2 - 
 
 Artibus ingenuis , Religion e , * Fide . * Nicodcmka. 
 
 There are fo many Opinions concerning 
 the Time both of the Birth and Death of Eraf- 
 Vius , that it has feemed abfolutely impoflible to 
 Monfieur Bayle , to decide fo intricate a Contro- 
 verfy. Thofe who made the Infcriptions that 
 are to be feen on the Pedeftal of the above- 
 mention’d Statue, tell us, that he was born 
 Oftober 28, 1467; and feveral other Authors 
 are of the fame Opinion. But notwithstanding 
 the Regard we ought to have to the Credit of 
 this Inlcription, I muft own that I am not con- 
 vinced by it ; and perhaps I may, at another time, 
 give you the Reafons that make me quef- 
 tion its Authority in this Point. The Epitaph at I read . lt: d- 
 Bafil (which * by the way, is falfely cited by feve- ^cr, aSTco- 
 ral Perfons, tho’ it may be very eafily read ) runs pyed it with 
 thus, MORTVVS EST IIII. f EID. 1 VL. Care. 
 
 IAM SEPTVAGENARI VS. AN. A CHRL t n Inftea i of 
 STO NATO M.D. XXXVI. This Jam feptuage - ° r 
 
 narius is a loofe way of Exprefiion •, nor do I know |%*ThTiere- 
 that any Perfon has fixed the Time more particu- und*?, in The 
 larly. However, ’tis certain this Illuftrious Au- Artie. 0 t'Bafi/. 
 
 B 4 thor 
 
8 
 
 Leckerkeck, A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 thor was born at Rotterdam , and not at Turgaw y 
 as fome have written *, and ’tis no lefs certain, 
 that he dyed at Bafil, and not at Friburg , as F arri- 
 val affirms, afier feveral others. Moncony s af- 
 fures, us, tho’ I know not upon what Authority, 
 that ’twas Erafmus who invented the Ufe of 
 Turf. ’Tis at leaft a Hundred Years ago fince 
 Julius Scaliger wrote, that Three hundred Years 
 before, they burnt Turf in Holland ; and it would 
 be a difficult Talk to prove, that the Ufe of it 
 was not yet earlier. 
 
 LECKER- Being, for fome Reafons, induc’d to go to 
 KECK. a Village called Leckerkeck , three imall Leagues 
 diftant from hence, upon the River Leek , I will 
 impart to you three or four fmall Curiofities I 
 obferved there. 
 
 The Lord of the Place told us. That the 
 Salmon Fifhing, the Fifth part whereof only be.- 
 longs to him, yielded him formerly Twenty thou- 
 fand Livres^dr Annum, and oftrtimes more. And 
 that the Salmon having taken another Way, by 
 degrees, that Revenue is fo ftrangely diminilhed, 
 that for feveral Years it has fcarcely defrayed 
 the Charge of the Fifhery *, fo that that Gentle- 
 man would have given it over, if he had not 
 been obliged to maintain his Right. Formerly 
 alfo the Salmon fwarm’d before Dort in luch 
 Multitudes, that the Maid-Servants of that Ci- 
 ty made their Bargains, according to the com- 
 mon Saying, not to be compelled to eat it above 
 twice a Week ; but at prefent they are rid of 
 that Trouble. 
 
 W e went to fee a Country-woman there, who, 
 lafl Year, was brought to bed of Six Sons : There 
 were Four of ’em baptized, and the eldeft of ’em 
 lived Four Months. This is very true. 
 
 A M a i d of the fame Village carry ed a Muf* 
 quet Seven Years, without being difeovered. 
 
 She 
 
9 
 
 Part L VITALY. Rotterdam. 
 
 She went always by the Name of La Bonte , by 
 which Name {he was muftered ; and at prefent 
 fhe is a Servant in the Houfe of the Lord of that 
 Place. 
 
 Some Years fmce dyed in this Place Gerrit 
 Baftiaanfen , a Fifherman, who was Eight Foot 
 high, and weighed 500 Pounds, tho’ he was ve- 
 ry lean. We were in his Houfe, the Doors 
 whereof are very high, and where they {hewed 
 us fome of his Cloaths. 
 
 Instead of entertaining you with an Ac- 
 count of the pretended Foundation of Rotterdam 
 by one Roterius , Son to a King of die Sicambri , 
 mentioned by Trithemius , in his Flilfory (I had 
 almoft faid Romance) of the Origin of the Gauls ; 
 
 I fhall take this Occafion to advertife you, once 
 for all, that I’m refolved to take no Notice of 
 fuch uncertain and unattefted Stories which may 
 be juftly ranked among Fables. The Roter , or 
 Rotter , is a little River that falls into the Canals 
 of Rotterdam and, doubtlels, gives it’s Name to 
 the City : But whether this River takes it’s Name 
 from the pretended Roterius , or from fome Town 
 that he had formerly built near this Place, is a 
 Queftion which I leave to be decided by thofe 
 who have either Leifure or Inclination to exa- 
 mine fuch Controverfies. 
 
 I observed one Thing in this City, which 
 is too fingular to be forgotten. The Tower of 
 the great Church, which leaned to one fide, 
 was let up ftreight, as you may fee by the In- 
 fcription engraved on Brafs, at the bottom of the 
 Tower on the In fide. It is in Butch , but I fend 
 it you in Englijh . 
 
 IN the Tear 1651, the 25th ^September, they 
 began to open the Foundations of this lower, and they 
 drove in huge Piles round it, becaufe the faid Tower 
 lean* d upon the great Nave of the Church, on the North - 
 
 Eafl 
 
l© Rotterd am, A New Voyage VoL I. 
 
 Eaft Side : They ftreightened it about Three Foot and 
 a half) from the North- Eaft to the South-Weft ^ and 
 by this Means it became firm and upright : This was 
 finifhed in the Tear 1 655, the 22 d of April, by 
 Nicholas Jeremy Perfoons, Architect. 
 
 5 T 1 s a high and mafiy Tower : So that this 
 nice and bold Undertaking was of very great 
 Confequence to thofe People that dwelt near it. 
 The great Steeple at Delft , which is pretty near 
 the fame Figure, leans alfo on one fide : But I 
 know not whether they would be willing to run 
 the Hazard of the like Workmanfhip: In that 
 cafe, the Inhabitants towards whom the Tower 
 leans, would do well to remove themfelves out 
 of it’s reach. Dion Cajfius> in the Sixteenth Chap- 
 ter of the Life of Tiberius , relates fomething like it, 
 and that the Architect was ill rewarded for his 
 Pains and Ingenuity. 
 
 The Poft-Hour obliges me to finilh this 
 Letter : Be perfuaded, that I will omit nothing 
 which I believe proper for your Satisfaction. 
 And if my Leafure will not always permit me to 
 give you a particular Account of every thing, 
 affure yourfelf, that whatever I write fhall be 
 without Partiality, and founded upon careful 
 Information. I am, 
 
 Rotterdam, O£tob. 6, SIR 
 
 x6S 7. Nezv-Style. 
 
 Tours , &c. 
 
 LET- 
 
Part I. 
 
 to ITALY. 
 
 Delft. 
 
 II 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 W E came from Rotterdam to Delft , in lefs E E T 
 than two Hours, by the Rotterdam Boat. ,075, by* God- 
 Delft holds the third Rank in the Aflembly of/m theCrook- 
 the States of Holland . I will give you no other Backt p^ke of 
 Defcription of it than what I have told you of lorrain ' 
 the Cities in general, the Idea of which you 
 mull always call to mind. They fliewed us the 
 Tomb of Prince William , who was * A Tallin a- # 
 ted in this City. I cannot forbear fending you Q e Ja r d* 0 rSt- 
 the Epitaph of that Great Prince ; the Rellorer rac b of 
 of Religion in the Low-Countries, and the Foun- Francbe 
 der of the Republick : Ai;d I do it fo much the Gomte 9 
 
 was 
 
 the more willingly, becaufe this Monumental In- 
 fcription is feldom to be met with, in the Re- jzYearsoli. 
 lations that have been given of this Country ; 
 which, perhaps, proceeds from the Difficulty of 
 reading it. The Tomb, worthy of that Hero, 
 is in the new Church. 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Et 
 
 ALternce Memories 
 GULIELMI NAS SO VII 
 Supremi Auraufionenfnim Principis , 
 
 Patries Patris : 
 
 Qui Belgii Fortunis fuas pofthabuit , 
 
 Et fuorum 
 
 Validiffimos Exercitus, /Ere plurimum private. 
 Bis confcripfit , bis induxit. 
 
 Ordinum Aufpiciis Hif panics Fyrannidem propulit . , 
 Veres Religionis Cultum , avitas Patries Leges , 
 Rroocavit, Rejlituit: 
 
 Ipfam 
 
X2 Delft. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Ipfam denique Liberiatem tantum non aJJ'ertam 
 MAURITIO P R INC IP I 
 Paternce virtutis H&redi, Filio 
 Stabiliendam reliquit . 
 
 Herois vere pit , prudentis , invidli, 
 
 Fhiem Philip II.Hifp. Rex , Ille Europe Timor, timult ; 
 
 Non domuit , non terruit : 
 
 Sed impio Percuffore , Fraude nefandd. 
 
 Federate Belg. Provinc. 
 
 Perenni Memories Monum. 
 
 P. C. 
 
 The arfenal and the Town-Houfe aretheprin- 
 S^he^Palace C *P^ Buildings which they fhew to Strangers, 
 of the Stat- It is but a good League from Delft to the Hague , • 
 holder, the following the Courfe of the Canal. You pafs 
 ^d^th^^rcat not ^ ar * rom ^-efwkk, and Voorburg , which are 
 Hofpital, with vet T pleafixnt Villages ; and all along you meet 
 the Garden, with Houfes of Pleafure, Walks, and delightful 
 Gardens. I 
 
 W e fcarce meet with any Hiftorian that men- 
 tions the City of Delft , without fpeaking alfo, 
 with Admiration, of what was obferved not very 
 long ago there, of two Storks ( the Male and 
 the Female , ) who, after many fruitlefs Endea- 
 vours to fave their young ones that were in their 
 Neft on the Top of a Chimney, the Houfe be- 
 ing on Fire, refolved at laft to cover them with 
 their own Bodies, tho’ with the Hazard of their 
 Lives, even to defend them from the Flames, 
 or elfe to perifh all together. I could eafily main- 
 tain the Probability of this unqueftionable Fa£t, 
 by a great many other well attefted ones, that I 
 have met with in Hiftory ; but I fhall only here 
 take Notice of two Things : The one is. That 
 from thence came the iTsa apyteot NS//o/ which Ari - 
 ftophanes fpeaks of, as alfo the AvvMKcL^yev. The 
 other is, That the Word Stork , in the Holy 
 
 Language, 
 
Part I. ft I T A L Y, Hague. 13 
 
 Language, is derived from one of thofe that fig- 
 nify Benignity , Kindnefs , Mercy , as being the true 
 Charadters of that Creature. St Ambrofe , and all 
 the Naturalifts as well as he, call it Pia Avis . 
 
 T h o’ the Hague has fome of the Privileges HAGUE, 
 of the Cities, yet it is put in the Rank of the 
 Boroughs, becaufe it is not walled, and fends no 
 Deputies to the AlTembly of the States-General : 
 
 Yet we may fay, that, in refpedl of it’s Large- 
 nels and Beauty, it deferves as much Honour as 
 the belt Cities. 
 
 * T h e Prince of Orange refides here, (1687J *ThclateKin 
 and keeps a very fine Court. Here the States- of England. 
 General f aflemble, and the Ambafiadors, and -j- You may fee 
 other Minifters of Foreign Princes, have their the Place of 
 Refidence. The People are more polite and thl * Aflembly, 
 fociable than in other Places : The Coaches are Hah, where* 
 numerous: The Houfes and Walks are very the States of 
 fine, and the Air is very good. In a word, ’tis Holland meet, 
 moft certain that the Hague is an inchanting 
 Place. The Wood is one of it’s chief Orna- 
 ments : For, as I told you, it tires one to fee 
 nothing but Meadows; and therefore to walk TheSieurTk/- 
 in a Wood in Holland , gives a double Satisfac- n [ ruSy 
 tion. You have alfo the Walk by the Sea- /J^ n w ho ** 
 fide to the Village of Scheveling , whither you dwells at the 
 may go in Half an Hour, by a ftrait Path- way ** a gue, hat J a 
 cut crofs the Downs. There is a good Fifhery a^ne^he^ 
 at Scheveling. There you may fee a Chariot Things, are a 
 with Wheels and Sails, which the Wind drives great number 
 by the Sea-fhore ; fo firm and even is the Sand °[ v , e , ry curious 
 on that Coaft. ShelIs ' 
 
 Be tween the Hague and Scheveling , there 
 is a little Houfe of Pleafure belonging to y since created 
 Mr Renting ||, who is very well known to you. A Earl of Port- 
 Grand Penfionary of the Hague The that was Mon- land - 
 fieur de Wit'% Predecefibr) weary of the Affairs 
 and Bafinefs of the World, cauled this little fine 
 
 Houfe 
 
*4 
 
 Hague. A New Voyage Vol. if. 
 
 Houfe to be built, with very delightful Gardens* 
 and retired thither ; and as he was both a Philo- 
 fopher and a Poet, this Solitude agreed much bet- 
 ter with him, than his former State of Life. He 
 named this Place Sorgvliet , ( pronounce Sorflit ,) 
 that is to fay, Out of Care. A Term equivalent to 
 the Curifugium of Emmanuel Teforo , and gives us 
 the fame Idea as that of the famous Paufilipus . 
 
 Stet quicunque volet potens 
 Aulce culmine lubrico. 
 
 Me dulcis faturet Quies, &c. Seneca,, 
 
 [THIS fame Place has received fevcral Improve- 
 ments and Embellijhments , fince it y s being in the Pof 
 fejfton of it's new Majler.] 
 
 The Situation of the Hague deferves indeed* 
 
 In a peculiar manner, to be did ingui Hied from 
 that of any other Place in Holland , becaufe of 
 the Variety of ids Landfcape, having the Wood on 
 the North , the Meadow on the South, fome 
 Arable Lands Eaftward, and the Downs and Sea 
 to the Weft. 
 
 I t’s Trade is incondderable, in refpeCt of the 1 
 Cities, which have Havens, or great Manufa- 
 ctures •, yet a great deal of Bufmefs is tranfa&ed 
 in this Place. Behdes, there are many rich and ; 
 noble Families which live on their Revenues or 
 Employments in the Army, or Court. 
 
 The great Concourfe of Perfons of Quality* 
 is the Caufe that it is always furnifhed with Mad- 
 ders, requidte for the Indru&ion of young Gen- 
 tlemen in all forts of Exercifes. The Academy 
 * The Chapel efpecially is in great Reputation. There is one 
 of this Palace 0 f the fined Manages I ever beheld, and the Ri- 
 now is made ^ er * s a vel y fj^iiful and honed Man. 
 
 ^French ^ * Th e Prince of Orange is lodged * in the Pa- 
 Church. lace of the ancient Counts of Holland. To fpeak 
 
 Truth* 
 
Part I. 
 
 to ITALY. 
 
 Hague. 
 
 *5 
 
 Truth, there is nothing extraordinary in this Pa- * Now belong- 
 ? lace. That which is called the * Old Court , where 
 the Princes of Orange formerly dwelt, is a more f intlieNeigh- 
 1 regular building, f The Houfes of Pleafure bourhood of 
 are very beautiful. H a K ue 
 
 W e had the Curiofity to go on purpofe to the 
 Village of Loojduynen , to fee the two brazen Ba- La Maifon du 
 • fons, in which, his faid, the Three hundred Six- Bois. 
 j ty-five Children of the Countefs of Heneberg , ThisHiftoryis 
 [ Daughter to Florentj the Fourth Count of Hoi - t0 be found in 
 I -land, were baptized. * Erafmu:, Vi- 
 
 1 veSy (juicciar - 
 
 ' dirty Chriftord \ Camerarius y Scriverius, Guilt. Heda , Guy Dominick Pe- 
 ter y Author of the Annals of Plunders , and in many others, who fpeak of this 
 Birth, as of a thing very well attefled ; and, as they believe, true. The 
 Annals relate, that the 365 Children were baptized by the Bifhop Dsn Wil- 
 [ liamy Suffragan of 7 ryers y and that both they and their Mother died on the 
 1 fame Day, which was Good-Friday y Anno 1 276. 
 
 Suriusy Garony and divers Chronologers, relate an Hiftory of a Lady of 
 Pro: ence y called Irmentrudey Wife of Ifembardy Count of Altorfy who being 
 1! brought to bed of Twelve Sons, would have caufed Eleven to be drowned in 
 the River. They add, That Ifembard meeting the Woman which car- 
 ried them, asked her what fhe had In her Basket; the Woman anfwered# 
 
 I They were little Whelps, which Ihe went to drown. Ifembard was refolved 
 j to fee them, and having difcovered the Matter, he took the Children and put 
 them to Nurfes, and when they were grown up, prefented them all alive to his 
 I Wife; in Memory of which, faith the Hiltory, or the Story, that Family 
 l affumed the Name of Whelps , which it ftill retains. 
 
 J . Picus Mir and Annus II. writes. That a Woman of his Country, named 
 | Dorothy , brought Twenty Children into the World at two Births, Nine at 
 one, and Eleven at the other. See the Prodigious Hijlories of P. Boai/iuau. 
 
 Albertus Magnus fpeaks of a German Woman, who was brought to bed of 
 ■ One Hundred and Fifty Children. It would be no hard matter to produce a 
 I confiderable number of like Examples, which fome think true; and many falfc. 
 
 You know what hath been faid of this Lady ; 
 that having reproached a Beggar-Woman for 
 having too many Children, the poor Creature in 
 anfwer, (| wifhed her as many as there were Days 
 in the Year which within the Year accordingly 
 happened ; for the Countefs was brought to bed 
 nf thefe Three Hundred Sixty- five Children, 
 who, as I have faid, were all Chriflened, and the 
 
 fame- 
 
 1 | CamerariuSy 
 a 'Grave and 
 Learned Au- 
 thor, relates 
 manylnftances 
 of the Efficacy 
 of fuch Impre- 
 cations. Medit. 
 Hi ft. To. 1. L 
 v. c. 6. 
 
i6 
 
 LEYDEN, 
 
 an ancient 
 City. 
 
 Leyden. A New Voyage VoL L 
 
 lame Day bury’d in the Church of Lofdun. This 
 Hiftory is defcribed at large there, in a great Pi- 
 cture, on the Sides of which the two Bafons are 
 fixed. We mull not forget that the Boys were 
 named John, and the Girls Elizabeth. Marcus 
 Cremmus relates, that a Polonian Lady, the Wife 
 of Count Virbojlaus , upon fuch an Imprecation, 
 was brought to bed of Thirty-fix Children. 
 
 I am loth fo foon to part with the Hague> 
 which, without Contradiction, is a fine pleafant 
 Place ; but I mull fay fomething of Leyden and 
 Haerlem , before I finilh my Letter. Think not, 
 that when you leave the Hague , and come to 
 Leyden , you fall into a defart Country ; every 
 thing hath it’s Value, and that of Leyden is not 
 fmall. ’Tis true, all the Cities of Holland have 
 a fort of dazling Beauty ; and we cannot praife 
 one, without faying fo much of it, that we want 
 new Exprefiions for the other. Neverthelefs, I 
 lhould be glad to be able to give you fome new 
 Idea of the Beauties of Leyden . 
 
 This City hath not fo many Coaches as the 
 Hague , nor fo much noify Bufinefs as Rotterdam : 
 But perhaps it’s Quiet is far more charming. 
 It is a great City *, but, however, Repofe reigns 
 there *, and in it you may enjoy all the Sweetnefs 
 of a Country Life. ’Tis no wonder to obferve an 
 extraordinary Neatnefs, where there is fo little 
 Bufinefs and Dillurbance. Nothing comes 
 near that of it’s Houfes *, and we may com- 
 pare it’s fine Streets to fo many Alleys of a well 
 adorned Garden. Yet it miift be confefied, 
 that the Inhabitants of Leyden would willingly 
 confent, that their Streets fhould be lefs clean, 
 and that they would fuflain a little more Trou- 
 ble, on Condition they could be Mailers of a 
 good Haven. I have heard Projects have been 
 contrived about it*, but ’tis faid, that their Land 
 
 lies 
 
lies fo low, that they dare not 
 give the Sea a Paffage : So that the 
 Woollen - Manufacture makes the 
 greateft Trade of this City. 
 
 You know * Leyden is very anci- *Some believe 
 ent, and there are ftill left fome that the ^ urg f 
 Marks of it’s Antiquity. But that ° 
 
 which at prefent renders it mod Others attri- 
 Famous is the f Univerfity. They bute it to the 
 commonly carry Strangers to the 
 Phyiick-SchooT, and in the Ana- p reten ds it was 
 tomy Hall you may fee a great built by the 
 number of Skeletons of Men and Counts not a- 
 Beafts : Many natural Rarities, and ^hundred 
 other Curiofities ; as Plants, Fruits, Years ago. 
 Animals, Arms, ftrange Habits, There is a La - 
 Pictures, Mummies, curious Works, ^ rmt ^ 
 
 Urns, Idols, &c. I fear you would t le°^oimtain~ 
 hardly give credit to the Story of which is agree- 
 a Prujfian Peafant which is there able enough, as 
 Painted : He had fwallowed a very alio a Wel1, 
 large Knife ; fo that they were for- + The number 
 ced to cut open his Stomach to get Scholars is 
 it out, after which he lived eight 
 Years. TheUniverlity 
 
 hath divers Privileges : *Twas founded Feb. 8. 1 5 75 • 
 
 FI e r e is the Shape and Bignefs Daniel Bee for* 
 of that Knife (as it is there drawn) hatl1 P u bhfli- 
 as near as I could guefs at it at 0 f t ] iat ^cci- 
 fome Diftance, not being able to dent, with 
 reach to meafure it *, lam fure I curiousReflex- 
 have rather lefiened, than enlarged Tkl^off)^ 
 it : At the fide of it, is written cultnvoro 
 Andreas Grunheim Borofiiis , An- PruJfiaco % 
 norum 22, deglutivit Cultrum hn- 
 jus magnitudinis , Anno 1 635, 29 
 Maij. It is added, that Bant. 
 
 ScbuabiuL took out the Knife the 
 V o l. I, C ninth 
 
1 8 
 
 * This Knife 
 was fwallowed 
 by anotherPea- 
 fant in Bohe- 
 mia, An. 
 1602. It ha- 
 ving been nine 
 Weeks in his 
 Stomack, they 
 cut it out iafe- 
 
 iy. 
 
 •f- There are 
 many flying 
 Cats in the 
 Province of 
 Malabar. 
 
 \ TaJJoni . 
 
 1 | On one fide 
 of this Coin 
 is this Infcrip- 
 tion, H&c U- 
 bertatis ergo 3 
 and on the 
 ©ther, Piigno 
 Pro P atria. 
 Every (even 
 Years there is 
 a Tragedy re- 
 prdented, re- 
 lating to that 
 •famous Siege. 
 
 Leyden. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 ninth of July following, in the Prefence of fuch 
 and fuch Phyficians, whofe Names are there 
 mentioned. The Knife, to my Knowledge, is 
 Hill kept in a Cabinet of Rarities at Konigsburg . 
 
 I have feen an Account of the * like Nature, in 
 the Emperor’s Cabinet at Vienna. 
 
 In the MidH of the Hall is an unfortunate 
 Thief, whom they derided to Extremity, after 
 they had hanged him. They fixed his Skeleton a 
 Straddle upon that of an Ox, becaufe he had 
 been a Cow-Healer- They made Shooes of the 
 Skin of another Thief, and a Shirt of his Bowels. 
 
 The Phyfick-Garden is not far from hence. 
 
 A great number of Rarities are Hill to be feen in 
 the Gallery of this Garden, and in the Cabinet 
 called the Indian-Cabinet , to which this Gallery 
 leads. I obferved, among other Things, an Ape, j 
 and a Cat, which came into the World with | 
 *f Wings : The Eland of a MairmaLd : A Stare 
 with long Ears *, a Vegetable Priapus , which is a 
 very curious Plant : A MonHer which ifTLied out 
 of a Elen’s Egg : A || Piece of Money of Pail- 
 board, made at Leyden , when it was befieged by 
 the Spaniards in 1574. And a Serpent brought 
 from Surinam , on whofe Skin are feveral natural 
 Figures, which refemble home Arabick Chara6lers« t 
 I make this laH Obfervation, becaufe our Guide I 
 very much admired this little wonder of Nature* ! 
 But to fpeak freely, I find nothing fmgular in 
 this, no more than on the Back of common 2 
 Mackerels, or in the Greek Letters, which are. r 
 formed* as feme fanfy, by theTurnings and Wind- 1 1 
 ings of the Meander . There is fo univerfal, and t 
 fo odd a Diverfity of fuch Conformations in the fc 
 World, that ’twould be eafy to find the like Fi- i 
 gurts on the firHThing we meet with, if we would 
 give our Hives the Trouble to look for them. 1 
 
Parti. VITALY. Leyden. 
 
 The greateft part of the Animals, Infetfts, and 
 fuch other Things, are hung up in Vials fill’d 
 with certain tranlparent Baliams, by which they 
 are preferv*d from Corruption. 
 
 The Library which was founded by William I. 
 Prince of Orange , has been confiderably encrea- 
 fed by thofe of Helmannus Secundas , Philip d Leydis , 
 and the famous Jofeph Scaliger , who has left to 
 it, at lead two hundred Manufcripts in diverfe 
 Oriental Languages. 
 
 Going out hence, we went to fee the great 
 Church, which is a vaft Pile *, and afterwards 
 we took Boat for Haerlem. But before we pro- 
 ceed on our Voyage, I muff needs give you fome 
 account of the unfortunate Deftiny of the Rhine , 
 of which there are fome fmall remains at Leyden . 
 The Glory of other Rivers encreafes proportio- 
 nably to the length of their Courfe ; but this 
 great and famous River, dwindles to nothing, 
 and is utterly loft before it comes into the Har- 
 bour. After it hath been conftrain’d to divide 
 it felf at Meeting with the Skenk Fort, where 
 one half of it’s Waters take the Name of W'ahal : 
 The TJfel robs it * of another great part, a little 
 above Arnheim. Yet it goes on to that City, 
 tho’ much weakened *, and at feven or eight 
 Leagues from thence is again oblig’d to feparate 
 at the City of Diierftede : It’s principal Branch 
 there takes anew Name, and is called the Leek *, 
 and the poor little ftripped Rivulet, turns to the 
 right, retaining ftill it’s Name of Rhine , and paf- 
 feth on to Utrecht , where it is divided a fourth 
 time. The Vecht breaks off at that place, and 
 takes it’s courfe to the North : And the little 
 thread of Water which is yet called the Rhine , 
 paffeth quietly to Worden . It comes to bid it’s 
 laft farewel to Leyden , and faintly nnifhes it’s 
 courfe, by lofing the fmall remainders of it’s 
 C 2 Waters, 
 
 19 
 
 * It is to be ob- 
 ferved, that 
 the branch of 
 the Rhhe, 
 which takes to 
 the right, a 
 little above 
 Ar?ihfim, and 
 carries the 
 Name of the 
 25 ^/, is not 
 properly the 
 Xi Tel. It is a 
 Chanel which 
 Dtufus digged, 
 and brought 
 near to a place 
 now called 
 Does burg, to 
 make a com- 
 munication as 
 this place be- 
 tween the Wa- 
 ters of the 
 Rhine and the 
 XlfeL 
 
io Leyden. A New Voyage Vol. I 
 
 Waters, in two or three Canals, without having 
 the Honour to enter into the Sea. The Scaman- 
 der , the Simois, and fome other renowned Rivers, 
 which are not worthy to be compared to the 
 Rhine , have met with the fame reverfe of For- 
 tune : The whole furface of the Earth is fubjedt to 
 continual Alterations. Thefe Cataftrophes put 
 me in mind of what Ovid fays, 
 
 Vidi ego , quod fuer at quondam folidijfma tellus , 
 
 EJfe fretum ; vidi faff as ex cequore terras , &c. 
 
 W e are not ignorant of the caufe of the 
 Rhine's Fate j it was an Earthquake which fhook 
 * jn the Year the Downs, and * filled the Mouth of this River, 
 860, or accor- and forced it to return to feek a new Paffage. 
 ding to John ^he j^ ec p was then f ca rce worth notice, but the 
 "nthe Waters of the Rhine , which were driven back 
 Year 840. and overflowed the Country, fwelled, inlarged, 
 This Author and deepened th t Leek's Chanel ; and the entrance 
 to the Sea hath ever fince been fhut againfl the 
 ancient courfe of the Rhine. This poor River, 
 which I had feen running the greateft hazards in 
 the Lake of Conftance , and throwing it felf down 
 the Precipice, near Scaffhaufen , at laft, lofes both 
 it’s Reputation and Waters, at the Village of 
 Catwick. 
 
 ’Tis related by feveral good Authors, that the 
 Tradt of Land called Zeeland , was at that time 
 divided into the divers Iflands we fee now : and 
 that thole Lands, Woods, and Meadows, that 
 were between Amfterdam and the Texel, were over- 
 flowed and covered with thofe Waters now re- 
 maining, and known by the Name of the Zuy- 
 der-Stz. 
 
 They ftill preferve fome where in Leyden the 
 ■f Or Bvcild. Board of the famous Taylor f John Bocolde^ cal- 
 led John of Leyden , (becaufe born there) Head of 
 the Anabaptifts , King of Munjler , &c. 
 
 Ix 
 
 reprefents that 
 Storm as moft 
 terrible and 
 dreadful. 
 
 ; 
 
Part I. to ITALY. Haerlem, 21 
 
 I t is near five Leagues from Leyden to Haerlem ^ HAERLEM. 
 but the Villages and pleafant Houfes which you 
 fee on the right and left Hand all along the 
 Canal, make the way feem fhort. Haerlem is 
 large and very agreeable ; and there is even one 
 Conveniency in it that is wanting at Leyden ; 
 for it’s Waters are quickened, by the little River 
 Sparen y which joins it felf to it’s Canals, and 
 gives to fome a courfe, and to others fome 
 Circulation. The Linen, and Tape which are 
 made at Haerlem , have for a long time been it's 
 ' chief Trade : But I hear that at prefent they have 
 a great Manufa&ure of filk Stuffs. * The Great * j t wasdedi- 
 Church, and the Town-houfe, are the ftatelieft cated to S. 
 Buildings : And it’s Wood of tall Trees, with it’s von - l } is the 
 long and ftrait Walks, is one of it’s principal Or- ^f^yincc. 
 naments. 
 
 I t boafts to have given Birth to Laurence CoJler 9 
 who, if you will believe them, was the firft 
 
 I Inventer of Printing. But you know, Sir, that 
 John Guttenburg of Strasburg , difputes that Inven- 
 tion with Cofter : and that the pretended Con- 
 jurer, John Fauftus of Mcntz y will give place to 
 : neither. And befides, this Invention is attribu- 
 ted to John Mantel , and to Conrad and Arnold , 
 
 Brothers, and Burgeffes of the fame City of MenVz \ 
 
 ■ as alfo to Peter Scheffer , Peter Gernjheim , Thomas Pe- 
 I terfon , Lawrence Jenfon^ a fecond John Guttenburg, 
 
 \ and feveral others. *Tis Itrange that Hiitory is 
 \ fo intricate, and entangled with Fables, that we 
 t cannot difcover the Truth of fo late a Tranf- 
 a6lion : But if you confider the Nature and Cir- 
 cumflances of the Thing, you will foon perceive 
 the Caufe of this Confufion. For the Reafon why 
 we find the Names of all thofe Printers in the 
 Books that were firfb printed at Haerlem , Mentz , 
 
 Spire , Strasburg , and other Places, is becaufe they 
 were all Partners ; and thofe who contributed to 
 
 C 3 the 
 
22 
 
 * There are 
 no Books of 
 Faujlus ’s Im- 
 preffions fo an- 
 cient as thofe 
 that have been 
 Printed by 
 Cojier . 
 
 -f- The ad van 
 tage of thefe 
 Plates was 
 in their 
 being always 
 ready for 
 new Impref- 
 fions. 
 
 Haerl em. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 the Charge, refolved to have a Share in the 
 Glory. 'Tis probable, that every one of them 
 claimed the Honour of the Invention ; and fince 
 the Controverfy could not be eafily decided, even 
 at that time, ’tis not reafonable to fuppofe, that 
 we fhould be able to give a clearer View of it at 
 fuch a Diftance. 
 
 This new Secret was quickly divulged, and 
 the Invention was communicated to the principal 
 Cities in Europe. I will not pretend to give 
 an account of the Perfons by whom it was propa- 
 gated : Such an Enquiry would engage me in a 
 new Labyrinth, for the Imitators make fometimes 
 more Noife than the Inventers. Nor is the Time 
 of this Invention lefs uncertain than the Author : 
 I verily believe, that every Year is mentioned as 
 being the firft Epocha of Printing, from 1420, till 
 near the End of the fame Century. * Cojier , as 
 far as I can perceive, had the greateft Share in 
 the firft Invention ; but neither he nor Faujius 
 was the Author of the Hneft and moft uieful 
 Improvement of it. For they engraved their 
 Characters in Wood, as it is fometimes ufed 
 at prefent, fo that every Plate became ufelefs, 
 •f* as foon as the I m predion was finifhed, fince 
 the Letters could not be feparated. The Way 
 of calling Letters was not invented till fome 
 Years after; and I think the Honour of this 
 Invention is almoft unanimoufly afcribed to 
 one John Mentel . Aldus Manutius , that learned 
 Venetian Printer, found out the Italick Characters, 
 which perhaps received that Name from the 
 Country where they were invented. He was ah 
 fo the firft who printed in Greek and Hebrew. I 
 fliall conclude this Digreftion, with obferving, 
 that as there is nothing fo advantagious, which is 
 not attended with lome accidental Inconve- 
 niencies ; fo the Invention of an Art which was 
 
 fo 
 
23 
 
 3 art I. to I T A L Y. Haerlem, 
 
 f o ufeful to the learned World, ruined the Trade 
 )f thofe who lived by transcribing Books. 
 
 Among the divers Rarities which are to be Seen 
 1 n the Tcwn-Houfeof Haerlem , they keep, with 
 \ Darticular Care, in a Casket of Silver and wrap- 
 Iped in Silk, the firit Book ("according to thofe of since the firft 
 Haerlem ) that ever was printed : It’s Title is Spe- Edition of this 
 -ilium humane? Salvationis: It hath many Figures. Book ’ * iiave 
 . The keeping of this Book is entrufted to feveral thaUbm^thing 
 I Magiftrates, who have every one his own Key has been al- 
 ■pf the Place where it is, which renders it not tered there. 
 
 \ *afy to be feen. The Statue of Laurence Cofter is 
 llikewife to be feen in this Place. The following 
 t Infcription was put in Letters of Gold, on the 
 | Doer of his Houfe, with thefe Verfes: 
 
 M E MO RIM SACRUM. 
 
 Typographia Ars Artium omnium Confervatrix 
 hie primum inventa circa annum, 1440. 
 
 Vana quid Archetypos £s? Praia Moguntia jaft as? 
 
 Haerlemi Archetypos Prcelaque nata feias. 
 
 Extulit hie , monftrante Deo , Laurentius Artem *, 
 
 Diffimulare , Virwn , dijfimulare Deum eft. 
 
 If what Trigaltius, and other Travellers have Tavernier af- 
 faid, be true, that Printing is of fo antient Ufage fures us. that 
 in China 9 it is very probable, that thofe who firft 
 made Ufe of it in Europe , were but Imitators of 0 y f et 
 them. Guy Panciroll does affirm it, and Count Printing. 
 Mofcardo , who quotes him, feems not 
 to queltion theTruth of it. * Mezeray 9 
 our famous French Hiftorian, is alfo 
 of the fame Opinion, in the Life of 
 Charles the VII. And all thofe who 
 have written concerning the King- 
 dom of China , agree in that Point ; 
 chiefly f John Mendoza Gonzales , 
 who tells in his Hiftory of that 
 
 C 4 
 
 * The Turks will not al- 
 low theUfe of Printing , no 
 more will the Persians, nor 
 other eaftern Nations, ex- 
 cept the Cbinefe. 
 
 f An Augujlin Friar of 
 Toledo, Bifhop of Popaian 
 in America , and afterwards 
 of Sipari. 
 
 Country 
 
24 
 
 Hae rlem. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 Country, that he had feen a Chinefe Book 
 printed 500 Years before printing was known 
 in Europe . I know that the Accounts we have 
 
 of thefe remote Countries, are not always to 
 be depended upon ; moil being fluffed with 
 ridiculous or impoflible Stories. Such I take 
 the Defcription the famous Marco Paulo has 
 given us of the City of Quinfay whofe Circuit, 
 fays he, is an hundred Italian Miles. It has 
 One Million Six Hundred Thoufand Heads 
 * More than in of Families, that is to fay, about * Eight 
 all England. JVJillions of Souls ; twelve Thousand ftone 
 Bridges, which are fo broad and high, that the 
 biggeft Ships fail under the Arches, without 
 ftriking down .their Mails •, a Palace ten Miles 
 round, wherein are twenty magnificent A- 
 partments \ in each of which Ten thoufand 
 Perfons may conveniently live. This is fo ex- 
 travagant, that one would be guilty of too grofs 
 a Credulity to believe it ; but on the other Hand, 
 we fhould be as unreafonable, if we did from 
 thence deny our Belief to Fadls probable in 
 themfelves, and duly attefled. Likely Sir Willi- 
 am Petty had no great Faith in this Author, for 
 elfe he would not have faid, and endeavoured 
 to prove, that London is the largeft, and moft 
 populous City in the World. 
 
 Meyer , John de Beka , and leveral other Hifto- 
 rians report, that in the Year 1403, or 1404. a 
 Mermaid was brought to Haerlem, which, by a fu- 
 rious Tempeft, was thrown on the neighbouring 
 Shore : Tiiat they accuftomed her to eat feveral 
 forts of Meat, but her principal Food was Bread 
 and Milk } that they taught her to Spin *, and 
 that Ihe lived rpany Years. Others write, that 
 this Mermaid was fent from Embden to Haerlem . 
 J. G. a Leydis adds, that fhe would often fteal 
 away to return to the Water, and that Ihe had 
 
 an 
 
Parti. ITALY. Amsterdam. 25 
 
 an odd Kind of Speech (* Locutionem ejus non in - • ( They did 
 telligebant , fed nec ipfa noftrum intellect idioma.) not underhand 
 And that Ihe was buried in a Church- yard, be- 
 caufe Ihe had learned to -f falute the Crols, He Language.) 
 alfo fays, that he knew Perfons that had feen her. j. j n t ^ e Year 
 
 897. there was 
 
 a very devout Dog at Corbie, whoaflifted atMafswith great Modefty, and 
 in all the decent Poftures. He Religioufly obferved Fifh and Fait Days, and 
 bited fuch Dogs who pitted againft the Walls of the Church, or barked during 
 Divine Service, &c. Paulini. Vid. the VI Volume of the Nouvelles de lu 
 Republique des Lettres. 
 
 W e might have again taken the Conveniency 
 of the Canal that runs ftreight from Haerlem hi- 
 ther, but it being a little too late when we came 
 from thence, and we willing to get hither as 
 foon as we could, we thought it better to make 
 ufe of a Chariot . The Carriage was a little un- 
 eafy, becaufe thofe Chariots are not hung ; but to 
 make amends, they went a great deal fwifter 
 than the Boat. I am, 
 
 Amjierdam , 
 Obi. 15, 1687. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Tours , &c. 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 SIR , 
 
 W A S not without fome Regret, that I fent a M S T £R- 
 X you my laft Letter from Amjierdam , with- DAM. 
 out giving you fome Account of that famous 
 City : But I fanfied I fhould do well to refrelh 
 my Memory with it’s Idea, that my Relation 
 might be more exadt. In the mean Time, 1 in- 
 treat you to remember, that I did not promife 
 to give you an intire Defcription of any Place : 
 
 It 
 
&6 
 
 Amsterdam. A New Voyage Vol.I. 
 
 It would require a long Continuance in Places 
 of which I fpeak, to obferve every Thing that is 
 Remarkable in them, and a large Volume to write 
 all. 
 
 AMSTERDAM is without Doubt one of the 
 mod beautiful, rare, and important Cities in the 
 World; and 5 tis certain, that it anfwers in every 
 Point, the great Reputation it has : But that 
 one fhould be more furprifed with it's Beauty, it 
 would be bed not to have known before-hand, 
 the other Cities of Holland. I confefs, that af- 
 ter I had feen the Haven of Rotterdam , and the 
 Beauties of the Hague and Leyden , I was but lit^ 
 tie furprized at the fird Sight of Amfierdam : I 
 found nothing there which might much didin- 
 guifh it from thofe other Cities. Nay, I mud 
 freely tell you, that the Multitude of Carts and 
 Sleds, whofe Number increafes daily by the vad- 
 There are fome nefs of Trade, fo cumber and dirty many of the 
 Streets which Streets, that it is not very pleafing to thofe that 
 are clean immediately come from other Towns, which can, 
 fhew more Neatnefs and Tranquillity. 
 
 There is no Comparifon to be made between 
 the Greatnefs of Amfierdam and London , dnce, ac- 
 cording to the late Calculation, there are feven 
 or eight hundred thoufand Souls in London , 
 and Amfierdam contains not above Two hun- 
 dred Thoufand, even tho’ fo great a Number 
 of French Refugees are lately fettled there. Ne- 
 verthelefs, Amsterdam yields not to any City in 
 the World for Riches, or Extent of Trade. You 
 *ThisCompa- know the * Eajl- India Company alone is fo pow- 
 ny was efta- erful, that it hath made Head againd Princes, 
 without interrupting the Courfe of it’s Traffick. 
 ? Tis equally foreign to my Defign, and beyond 
 my Capacity, to give you a particular Account 
 of die prodigious Trade of this City ; but I 
 
 cannot 
 
 blifhed in 
 *594 
 
Part I. to ITALY. Amsterdam. 
 
 cannot forbear acquainting you, with the Cha- 
 racter I received of it fomc Days ago, from one 
 of the principal Merchants of this Place ; and 
 I wifh I could reach the Force of his Exprefli- 
 ons. Know, laid he, that you are now in the 
 perpetual Fair of the Univerfe. The Number 
 of our Ships is much fuperior to that of our 
 Houfes : They bring us from all the Corners of 
 the World, all that the Creator has produced 
 for the Pleafure and Profit of Mankind. The 
 other Harbours in our Provinces have each a 
 particular Commerce *, but we comprehend all. 
 Amfterdam is the great Magazine of Europe *, and 
 if there were not a London in the World, we 
 might fay without Vanity, that there was not any 
 City that durft pretend to rival us in Trade. 
 
 This famous City is all founded on Piles in 
 the Midft of a Marfh : It is built on the South 
 of the River Te y whofe Mouth is an Arm, or a Or Tye, 
 little Gulf of the Zuyder-zee y on which the prodi- 
 gious Number of Ships refembles a vaftForeflr. 
 
 The * Fortifications are not flight, 
 and befides, there are Arfenals, and 
 Sluices, to drown all the Country a- 
 bout: So that it may be juftly ac- 
 counted a very ftrong Place, f The 
 Town-Houfe is a ftately Fabrick 
 of hewn Stone ; it’s Length is One 
 Hundred and Ten Paces, and it’s 
 Breadth Eighty Four. They af- 
 fured me, that the Foundation 
 coft as much as all the Superftru- 
 &ure. It’s Architecture is highly e- 
 fteemed, yet I fanfy it ought to have 
 a fair Gate, inftead of thofe low 
 and narrow Doors, which debafe 
 the Entrance into this moil fplendid 
 Palace j it were alfo to be wifhed, 
 
 * Twenty -fix Baftions. 
 TheDitches are eighty Pa- 
 ces broad, deep and fall of 
 running Water; the ordina- 
 ry Garrifon is eight Com- 
 panies of 2ooMeneach: the 
 Captains muft be Amfter - 
 darners. Befides, there are 
 60 Companies of Burghers , 
 of 250 Men each. The 
 Gates are fiiut at 9 o’Clock. 
 They are partly guarded by 
 the Citizens, and partly by 
 the Garrifon. The Keys arc 
 put into an Iron Cheft, in 
 Cuftody of theCitizens,and 
 the chief Burgomafter keeps 
 theKeys of the Chelt. G. L. 
 
 f It is faid this Building 
 coft three Millions. 
 
 that 
 
28 
 
 for the greater 
 walk 
 
 Amsterdam. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 that the open Place before it were more neat and 
 regular. Here are kept the vaft Sums of which 
 the Fund of the Bank is compofed. The Doors 
 are Proof againft Petards ; and 
 Security, a certain Number of Burghers 
 the Rounds every Night. 
 
 The * principal Church, is not 
 fo large as thofe of Leyden and Haer- 
 lem. It is to be confidered, that 
 Amsterdam, about Four hundred and 
 fifty Years ago, was only a Village 
 of Fiffiermen : And this fo renowned 
 City, in our Age, was but in a 
 very indifferent Condition when the 
 Church, of which I am fpeaking, 
 was built. In it they fhew you the 
 Pulpit, and tell you that it, toge- 
 it’s Canopy, coft Twenty thoufand 
 It is made only of Wood, of Gotbick 
 Carving, very full of Ornaments. On the glafs 
 Windows of this Church, is painted the Hiftory 
 of the Emperor Maximilian the Second, who 
 f Anno 1488. -f* honoured the Arms of the City with an Im- 
 I Or , OnePale perial Crown, in Acknowledgment of the good 
 Offices he had received from it. The Kings of 
 Spain have granted to Madrid , Toledo, Burgos , 
 and feveral other Cities, the Privilege of bearing 
 a royal Crown over their Coats of || Arms : 
 They have alfo conferred the fame Honour upon 
 feveral Families; and particularly, John Cerval- 
 lone , Baron of Oropeza , received this Favour from 
 Charles the Fifth. The Portugueze Jews here are 
 extraordinary rich, and their Synagogue is a 
 ** {lately Building, whereas that of the High 
 Dutch Jews is but mean and contemptible. 
 
 Portuga 1 , a 
 
 Portugueze Jew (Don Jerome Nunez de Cofla) was Agent of Portugal , at 
 Jim [l er dam. And another [Don Emanuel de Belmont ) Refident of Spain. 
 This laft received the Title of Count from the Emperor. 
 
 As 
 
 * It is called the New 
 Church. It was formerly de- 
 dicated to St Catharine. The 
 Organs coft One hundred 
 thoufand Crowns. TheTomb 
 of Ruyter, is a Piece worth 
 your View. They defigned 
 to erect a very high Tower 
 by the Church, but that 
 Work was never perfected, 
 becaufe the Building funk as 
 fell as they raifed it. 
 
 ther with 
 Crowns. 
 
 Gules , 
 charged with 
 three Salteers 
 Argent . 
 
 ** It is a 
 fquare Build- 
 ing, eredted 
 An. 1671. 
 Notwithftand- 
 ing the Inqui- 
 fition againft 
 the Jews in 
 Spain and 
 
29 
 
 Parti. ^ ITALY. Amsterdam. 
 
 A s we went along they brought us to one of 
 the * Houfes of Correction for the young De- * Rafphuys. 
 bauchees •, where they are conftrained to work : 
 
 There was one in a dark Cellar, where he pump- 
 ed inceflfantly, without which the Cellar would 
 have been filled with Water in a quarter of an 
 Hour, and he, by Confequence, in Danger of 
 drowning. Every one hath his Occupation and They have a- 
 Task, which he muft punctually perform un- bolifhed the 
 der the Penalty of whipping. Some are there u ** e °f the 
 for their Lives, others only for a Time. There j^™ p t ’ he 
 is alfo the like + Houfe for Courtefans , but they Edition of this 
 treat them with lefs Severity : This Houfe is not Book, 
 very full. It is a double Misfortune to about a 
 Score of poor Creatures who are kept in this ^ ^ Sm 
 Prifon to do Penance per force, while fome thou- 
 fands of their Comrades have their Tails at li- 
 
 berty : For, to fpeak the Truth, if thefe un- 
 happy Reclufes have dcferved fuch a Treatment, 
 it is moft certain, that there are many others in 
 the Town, who deferve it more than they, tho* 
 they are not thus fhut up. 
 
 The Roman Catholicks have the fame Liberty 
 here, which they enjoy through all the Domi- 
 nions of the States: But I can aflfure you, that A Modem 
 their Number is not near fo great in this City, Author, who 
 as fome would perfwade us. I had the Fortune Jj^ e 
 to difcourfe with a very intelligent and curious fur dam , 
 Perfon, who hath examined this Matter; and he writes, that 
 affirms, that the Roman Catholicks , and other there are m 
 Sectaries together, 
 the Inhabitants of Amfterdam . 
 
 do not make a fourth Part of about 
 
 Roman Catho- 
 lic and 
 
 as many Lutheran r, 4000 Anabaptifts, So Families of Armenians , 50 of 
 Quakers, 4^0, or more, of Portuguese J ezus, 100 of High Dutch Jews, 
 e molti Particolari che vivono fens a Religione. There is a Chapel for the 
 Sons of the Church of England ; and two Englifh Meetings : One of P ref 
 hyterians , and the other of Independents, 
 
 I KNOW 
 
30 Amsterdam. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 I know not whether you have heard of a kind 
 ^hemThey 0 ^ Convent of Nuns, called * Beguines, who are 
 are in a large ^ tolerated here: There are a great many of 
 
 Cloyfter.Their them in the Spanifh Netherlands . But Becaufe I 
 Church may believe you are not acquainted with this fort of 
 1200 People! Society, I will give you the Character of it in 
 Calvifms re* few and general Terms : It is compofed of Mai- 
 ports, that the dens or Widows who have no Children. There 
 Order of the are amon g them fome of all Sorts of Qualities, 
 Inftituted'I n an< ^ n °thing is required to make them capable 
 the Year 1207 of Admittance, but good Teftimonials, and an 
 by one called Eftate fufficient to maintain them at their own 
 ^$ esi °^ ac ' Charge. Every Beguine may have her Houfe, 
 fomeothers, and neceflfary Conveniencies by her felf, or they 
 by a Woman may join feveral together, according as Kin- 
 Named Beg- dred or Friendfnip may incline them. The 
 certainl^ 18 ^ ^^ ace t ^ 1 ^ s Society bears the Name of the Be - 
 known who guinage , which is commonly like a little Town 
 that Woman inclofed within another, and furrounded with 
 was, fince there a Wall, and a Ditch. There is a Church in this 
 Womenwho f nc lokire, where the Beguines are obliged to be 
 have born that prefent at the Hours appointed for publick Devo- 
 Name. M. S. tions. Their Habits are black, and fomewhat 
 pretends, that f anta fti C ah They regulate their Expences as 
 
 Daughter of t ^ ie Y pl ea fe> as we ^ f° r the ir Table as Furni- 
 Pepin /. but ture. They receive and pay Vifits when they 
 ’ascertain, pleafe. They quit the Beguinage when they 
 
 tution^o/the" ^ ave an I nc li nat i° n to marry, or on any other 
 Order of Be- Occafion. And it may be faid, that this Re- 
 guines is of a treat, far from the vowed Conftraint of that of 
 much later Convents, is a very fweet and reafonable Manner 
 or Living. 
 
 Since I haVe touched upon the Article of Re- 
 ligion (concerning which I forbear to obferve, 
 for the Sake of Brevity, abundance of remarka- 
 ble and particular Things relating to this 'Go- 
 vernment ;) I (hall only fay here, that their High - 
 MightineJJes the States General , allow to every 
 
 one 
 
Part I. ITALY. Amsterdam. gt 
 
 one that lives under their Protection, an entire 
 Liberty of his own Confcience ; highly con- 
 demning the horrible Practice of that Inquifiti- 
 on which is ufed in not only the Pope’s Domini- 
 ons, but alfo in fome other Countries, with fo 
 much Impiety and Barbarity, even againft the 
 Rules of good Policy it felf *, as Experience and 
 right Reafon make it plainly to be feen in Hol- 
 land. This wife and glorious State, does not 
 only allow all their Subjects the juft liberty of 
 Thinking, and Believing, according to the mea- 
 fure of their Knowledge, (a thing which we 
 cannot pretend to hinder by Force, without be- 
 ing guilty of an Abfurdity ; ) but generoufly take 
 the part of Strangers, who groaning beneath 
 that Oppreflion, come to implore their Afli- 
 ftance, and to beg their Interceftion, in order 
 to obtain this juft Freedom. Their High-Mighti- 
 nejjes have lately explained themfelves upon that 
 matter in Publick, in a Letter written to the 
 Lords of the Canton of Bern, with fo much Good- 
 nefs and Perfpicuity, in favour of thofe very good 
 People, commonly known by the Name that’s 
 given ’em, of Mennonifts or Piettjls, that I willingly 
 embrace this favourable Opportunity of inferr- 
 ing here, that excellent Letter, which gives a 
 juft and certain Idea of the true Sentiments of 
 thofe Sovereign Lords, according to the Au- 
 thentick Expreflion of their own Mouths. This 
 generous Declaration of theirs, defer ves to be 
 written in Golden Characters on durable Brafs, 
 to ferve as a Lefion and Example to Princes that 
 tyrannize over the Souls, as well as the Bodies of 
 their Subjects, in requiring Impofiibilities of ’em ; 
 and haften, according to their Principles, the eter- 
 nal Ruin of thofe whom they perfecute, and 
 whofe Blood they dare to fhed. 
 
 A copr 
 
A New Voyage 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 A COPT of a Letter from the High "and Mighty 
 States-General of the United Provinces , to the Lau- 
 dable Canton tf/'Bern, in favour of the Perfecuted 
 Anabaptifts (or MennOnifts,) March 15. 1710. 
 
 NOBLE , &c. 
 
 T H E Anabaptifts , who live under the Ju- 
 rifdi&ion of our State, have reprefent- 
 ed to us with great concern and grief of Mind, 
 That they underftand by Letters and certain 
 Information, That their Brethren of the fame 
 Perfwafion in Switzerland , and efpecially in 
 your Canton of Bern , are opprefs’d with hea- 
 vy and fevere Perfections for the Exercife of 
 their Religion : Infomuch that at this time a 
 great Number of Perfons, both Men and Wo- 
 men, are imprifoned, and are threatened, not 
 only with leffer Punifhments, but even with 
 the Gallies, Banifhment, and Death it felf. 
 Upon which account they beg our Intercefli- 
 on in favour of their Brethren, for alleviating 
 their Sufferings, and preferving the Liberty of 
 remaining in Safety in their Country, in the 
 free Exercife of their Religion. We have for 
 many Years examin’d the Condudf of the 
 Anabaptifts , and have found them by Expe- 
 rience, to be good and faithful Subjects in our 
 Country •, of a quiet, plain, and fincere man- 
 ner of Life, not meddling with any Matters 
 but what belong to them : On which Account 
 we neither could nor ought to refufe to fo good 
 Subjeds our Interceflions in favour of their 
 Brethren. 
 
 ‘ W e hold, as well as your Lordffiips, the 
 Reformed Religion for the beft and true Religi- 
 on, and we could wifti that the Anabaptifts here, 
 and with you, could be brought over to it. 
 
 4 And 
 
Part L VITALY. 
 
 4 And we are of Opinion, that no other Means 
 4 are to be employ’d to obtain that End but Rea- 
 4 fon and Conviction ; and that Compulficn ought 
 4 never to be us’d in Matters of Confcience ; 
 4 over which God has referv’d to himfelf the 
 c Jurifdidtion : To whom alone every Man mult 
 4 give an Account in due time, as well of his 
 * Opinions as of his Addons and Omiffions. 
 
 4 And fmce you, as well as we and other Po- 
 c tentates profefling the Reformed Religion , do fo 
 4 often, and with very good Reafon, complain 
 4 of the Perlecution fuffer’d by our Brethren in 
 4 thofe Countries, where an Infupportable Hierar~ 
 4 chy has got the upper Hand ; it does by no 
 4 means become us to fall into the fame Me- 
 4 thods of perfecting thofe, who, though dif- 
 4 fering from us in lbme Particulars, yet admit 
 4 the Word of God for the foie Rule of their 
 4 Faith and Manners. But it is much more ad- 
 4 vifeable to uie Chriftian Forbearance and To- 
 4 leration towards them, that the Enemies of the 
 4 Reformed Religion may not have any Pretence 
 4 from the Example of fuch Perfecutions prac- 
 4 tis’d by any Reformed Potentates againft thole 
 4 that differ in fome things from their Sentiments, 
 4 to juftify their fevere and cruel Perfecutions of 
 4 our Reformed Brethren. 
 
 4 It feems very ftrange and furprizing to us, 
 4 that any fhould offer to punifh others with Ba- 
 4 nifhments, Prifons, Galleys, and Death, on 
 4 account of their Religion •, on which they think 
 4 their eternal Salvation depends. We think 
 4 that all Men fhould be left free to themfelves 
 4 in thofe Matters, provided . thofe who are of 
 4 any other than of the publick Eftablifhed Reli- 
 4 gion do nothing that can tend to the Prejudice 
 4 of the Commonwealth. And it appears to 
 4 us. That in that Refpeft, there is lefs to be ap- 
 
 Vol. I. D prehended 
 
3 [ A Nenjd Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 4 prehended from the Anahaptijls than from Men 
 4 of any other Perfwafion •, fmce they carry 
 
 4 themfelves conftantly obedient and fubmiftive 
 
 5 to the fuperiour Powers, in all things which 
 
 * they don’t think contrary to the Word of God. 
 4 And whereas we are inform’d that your 
 
 4 Lordfhips lay three Things to their Charge. 
 4 i. That they do not own Magiftracy to be 
 4 agreeable to the Word of God, or the Tenour 
 4 of the Chriftian Religion ; i. That they re- 
 4 fufe to fwear Fidelity to the Government, and 
 4 to confirm the Truth by their Oaths when cited 
 4 by the Magiflrafce: 3. That they refufe to de- 
 4 fend their Country in cafe of Neceflity. It 
 4 appears to us. That the fir ft of thefe Accufa- 
 4 tions does not at ail agree with the 13th Ar- 
 4 tide of their Confeftion of Faith, by which 
 4 it, is plain that they have other, and much 
 4 better Sentiments of Obedience to Superiours. 
 4 And as to the Matter of Oaths, fince they 
 4 are of Opinion that Swearing is forbid them 
 4 by the Word of God, and that their Decla- 
 4 ration on their Veracity has the fame Force and 
 4 Effedt with them, as Oaths with others : It 
 4 follows by Confequence, that this Opinion can 
 4 be of no Prejudice to the Publick. And as 
 4 to the Third, we think it is too far ftretch’d, 
 4 fince they do not abfolutely refufe to defend 
 4 their Country, but think that the Profefiion 
 4 and Ufe of Arms for Revenge and Ruin of 
 4 others is not allowed of by the Laws of the 
 4 Gofpel ; and that it may fuffice that they pay 
 4 all Taxes which are laid upon them, by which 
 4 a State may be defended. 
 
 4 W e therefore requeft you, that for the afore- 
 4 faid Reafons, you will take the Affair of thefe 
 4 Ajiabaptifts into your Corifideration, and not 
 
 * only releafe thofe who are in Prifon, and ab- 
 
 * ftak* 
 
35 
 
 i^art I. 
 
 to ITALY. Amsterdam. 
 
 (tain from all other Punifhments, but alfo al- 
 low them, as good Subjects, to live in Peace 
 under your favourable Prote&ion. We are of 
 Opinion, that you will thereby not only do 
 no Prejudice, but a very great Service, to your 
 own State, fto which we wifli all manner of 
 Profperity ; ) and that we ought in this Cafe 
 to obferve this Rule, To do unto others , as we 
 would be done unto . Moreover, it will be very 
 agreeable to us to hear that our Intercefiion 
 has produced the wifhed Effect for the Relief 
 of thofe afflidted People, and we fhall acknoW- 
 c ledge the fame on all Occafions. 
 
 If after fo folid and determinate a Difcourfe, 
 it happens, that the inferior Courts in the fame 
 Provinces, a£t contrary to thefe Principles ; one 
 may certainly perceive, that this Diforder is the 
 Fruit of fome particular Intrigue ; the Authors 
 of which would be feverely punifhed, if the 
 ST A T E S were to examine the Matter. 
 
 The Confufion that Would be occafioned by 
 Coaches, by reafon of the perpetual Carriage of 
 Merchandizes, and the Danger of fhaking the 
 Houfes, which, as I told you, are founded on 
 Piles, is the Reafon that none but Strangers and 
 Phyficians are allowed to have any. Sleds indeed 
 are permitted, but are a flow and unpleafant Car- 
 riage, which none but old Women make life ok 
 
 W e went to fee a French Opera , where there One ought ta 
 was neither Machines, nor rich Cloaths, nor vifit at Am- 
 good A6tors. That which we found moft plea- c^inTts* of 
 fant, was a great Lafs, who a£ts the Part of a j^ r mitzen, 
 Man, and pronounced what (he fungfo well, that Vanderbem , 
 one would have believed fhe had been born in 0cc °> anci 
 France , tho* all fhe faid was by rote ; for fhe un- 
 derltood not a Word of French. They fay fhe 
 was a Drummer for five or fix Years among the 
 Dutch Troops. 
 
 Da 
 
 Must 
 
36 Amsterdam. A New Voyage. Voh I. 
 
 Must I tell you fomething of the famous Mu- 
 fick-houfes *, they are a kind of Taverns and Halls 
 for dancing, where the young People of the 
 meaneft fort, Men and Maids meet every Evening* 
 Thefe are the Meeting- places, but the Perform- 
 ance is carried on in another. Ufually Strangers 
 have the Curiofity to fee them. Curious Spe&a- 
 tors muft make fhew as if they had a tnirid to 
 drink a Glafs of Wine when it is offered, and 
 give fome Gratuity to him or her who prefen ts it. 
 
 The Exchange The Burfe or Exchange was built in the Year 
 of London h It is a Building of fine Free-Stone, and 
 
 in len 'th 8F gnd f° lin ^ e< ^ on more than 2000 Piles, ' The Place 
 1 2oinBreadth. where the Merchants affemble is about 220 Foot 
 The Exchange long, and 1 30 in Breadth. The Galaries are fup- 
 of Ar, twerp is p 0rt ed by forty fix * Pillars. The Shops are nei- 
 Fac^bn^and ^ne, nor fo numerous as thofe on the 
 
 70 broad Royal- Exchange , and others, at London. 
 
 * The firft Or- T h e Academy commonly called the Elluflricus 
 ^ er \°r nCi * School , is a fine Building. There they teach the I 
 C iLC ° na Oriental and other Tongues : Divinity, Philofo- 
 phy, Hiftory, The Lawyers, andthePhy- 
 ficians, have alfo their Schools. 
 
 There are five, or fix, principal high Towers I 
 ' (each of them having a great Clock ;) which are 
 fo placed and diflributed, that the Hours may 
 be eafily heard in any Part of this City. 
 
 I am informed, that a Gentleman that has 
 lived in this City a great while, is now bufy in 
 compofing a little Book, the Title of which is, 
 
 ■f Le Guide d 9 Amfterdam en Faveur des Negotians & 
 des Foyageurs ; you will find in it many curious 
 things, which, for that Reafon, I omit here. 
 
 I RE- 
 
 . 
 
 •f We fhall fnd in it a particular De r cription of the TV tel 
 de Ville, and the reft of the public!: Buildings; the Cuftom- 
 Bocks, the Meafure of Cloth ; the Weights andMeafures ; the 
 Rules of the Exchange and Lumbary ; the Intereft of Brocage, 
 the Polls, the Waggons, the Boats, the Roads, 
 
Part I. VITALY. Losdun. 37 
 
 I returned Yefterday from Lofdun , whither The Place of 
 fome Friends obliged me to go a fecond Time tll r c ^ a j; ivlt y 
 with them. I am very glad I can inform you, j ohn Meu .. ,p, 
 that the Infcription which is to be feen in the U s (who died 
 Church of this Village, differs from the Annals of in 164', be- 
 Flanders , which I have already mentioned to you, ^ 62 Ccirs 
 in this particular ; that the laid Annals give the °' ‘ 
 
 Name of William to the Bifhop that chriftened 
 the 365 Children : whereas he is named Guido in 
 I the Infcription at Lofdun: But this Variation is 
 ; no Argument againd the Truth, or at lead againd 
 ;the Probability of the Fad. If it were lo, we 
 could never depend upon any Hiftory, no, not 
 even thofe of the Bible : For we muft own, that 
 in refped to the hidorical Circumdances, their 
 Harmony is much difagreeing. But thefe forts 
 of Differences in Particularities that are not ef- 
 fential, are fo far from giving us any jud Preju- 
 dice againd the Reality of the principal Matters 
 of Fad, that on the contrary, they clearly prove, 
 that there was no Cheat or Combination among 
 the Witnelfes. The mod confiderabie Ad ions 
 that happen in our Time, and even under our 
 Eyes, are always related with fome Variations. 
 
 Here is the Infcription, that is in the Church of 
 Lofdun , ( Locfduynen .) 
 
 fn tibi Monftrofum nimis & memorabile Faftum ; 
 
 Quale nec a Mundi Conditione datum . 
 
 
 MARGARITA , 
 
 Mluftris Domini Florentii Comitis Hollandses Filia , 
 Cujus Mater fuit Maffhildis , 
 
 Filia Henrici Ducis Brabantii , 
 
 ( Fratrem quoque habuit Gulielmnm , 
 Alemanniae Regem:) 
 
 Hess prtfata D 0 MINA MAR GAR If A 
 Anno Salutis M.CC.LXXVL 
 /Etatis fues Anna XLVII. 
 
 D 3 
 
3 8 L o s d u N. A New Voyage . Vol. I. 
 
 Ipfo Die ParafceveSy bora 9 ante Meridiem , 
 Peperit Infantes vivos prcmifcui Sexus 
 * AL 640 Numero Trecentos * Sexaginta Quinque. 
 
 $ 2 * 
 
 Per venerab. Epifccp. Dom. Guidon. Sufrraganeum, 
 Prcefentibus mnnullis Procerib. & Magnahb. 
 
 In Pelvi quadam Baptifmi Sacr amentum per cepiffent 9 
 Et Mafculis JOANNES^ 
 
 Fcemellis verb Nomen E LI S A B EE 
 Impofitum effete 
 
 Ipforum omnium , cum Mairis , Ardmce , 
 
 Ad Deum 
 
 Azterualiter viciurce redder unt : 
 
 Corpora autem fub hoc Saxo requie fount* 
 
 A Q 
 
 Ilcec lege> mox ammo jinpefaBus Left or alibis. 
 
 \ 
 
 That is to fay literally: MARGARET, 
 Daughter of the illuftrions Lord Florent {IV) Count 
 of H ol 1 and , and of Madth i 1 d a Daughter of the Duke 
 of Brabant ; and Sifter to William, King of Ger- 
 f AI. 42. man y* MARGARET, Ifay^ off 47 Tears of 
 Age ( and married to the Qount of Henneberg) was 
 brought to Bed of Three hundred and fixty five 
 Children all alive, as well Boys as Girls , on Eafter- 
 Eve, about Nine in the Morning *, in the Year of 
 our Lord M.CCLXXVL I he Children were all 
 drift ened by the venerable Lord and Bffhop Guido 
 (or Guy) Suffragan , — in the Prefence of fever al great 
 Lords • They were prefented all together in a Bafon 
 to receive the Sacrament of Baptifin : The Boys were , 
 named JOHN; and the Girls ELIZABETH, j 
 But immediately after, Margaret their Mother % 
 and they all died , to live again eternally with God- 
 Their Bodies are interred beneath this Tomb. 
 
 * ADRIAN 
 
Parti. ITALY. Losdun. 39 
 
 * ADRIAN JUNIUS relates this whole Hifto- * He gives ai- 
 ry in his BA'TAVIA ; and by the manner in which io d^Imcnp- 
 | he exprefies himfett, one has noReafon to doubt, ] lc ha3 put but 
 but that that grave and learned Man was con- 364 Children 
 vinccd of the Truth of the Story. The moft initeadof 365. 
 Curious will be fo much the more pleafed to find Option 
 | here his own Words ; becaufe the Book is not Lojfau, but I 
 common, and the Teftimony of a famous Phy- had not the 
 : iician, and a Perfon born in the Country, con- ^. l ^ re ^ otran * 
 t cerning a Matter of Faft of this Nature, merits h a v e \-h!s r rolu 
 I a greater Attention. a very exa& 
 
 Friend, who 
 
 formerly took it upon the very Place. I could quote here a Number of 
 Authors, befidcs thofe that I have named in the former Letter, who relate 
 l this prodigious and incredible Hiftory for certain Truth. 
 
 c LOS DUNUM duobus pafTuum Millibus ab 
 c Haga Comitis difiidet, a Collibus quos inter ha- 
 • bitatur Nomen adeptum. Bernardi Inftitutum 
 4 fequitur, a Mathilda conflrudtum, ubi oltendi- 
 c tur, inter alia, Monumentum Margaretne Prin- 
 ■ cipis Foeminae, quae Florentii II 1 1 Comitis, 
 
 4 e Mathildejam didtae uxore, filia, Comiti Hen- 
 4 nebergenfi nupta, f uno pauciores, quam An- .j. p cr hapsone 
 4 nus vertens dies habet, Liberos, partu porten- of theft little 
 4 tofo edidiffe memoratur : Quae res ut compen- Things was 
 4 dio abfolvam, ad hunc habet modum. Pau- oi * 
 
 4 perculam Gemellos emxam, & pendentes utrin- 
 4 que ab uberibus ladlantem, quae Comitis Uxori 
 ‘ fe forte obtulerat, ftipem flagitans ; probro in- 
 ’ 4 ceflfebat ipfa Princeps, & || adulterio concepifTe jj others re- 
 4 inceftam prolem aiebat •, fieri enim poffe ut port, that the 
 j * uno ex Marito bina ftirps nafeeretur, pernega- Prm cds faid 
 4 bat. Ilia, pudicitine intemeratae Deum Teftem ^at^roor^Wo- 
 c citans, imprecatur illi foholem, quae numerum men ought not 
 : 4 folidi Anni dierum aequet, fi pudicitiae fuae to get Chile 
 [ 4 cor.flaret honos. Precum efncaciam compro- ^ reu * 
 
 4 bafie Eventi fides dicitur, p.irtu incredibili, ni- 
 4 fi public! Monumenti Audtoritatem convellere, 
 
 D 4 fidemque 
 
4 ° 
 
 * He does not c 
 look upon that c 
 any otherwife 
 but. as a mira- 
 culousWorkof 4 
 Providence ; « 
 
 Befides in Re- c 
 ipeCtof the 
 poor Woman’s 
 Imprecation, I c 
 could alledge a t 
 great Number c 
 of Events of 
 the fame Na- 
 ture, which 4 
 are fo well at- < 
 telled, that the c 
 molt incredu- 
 lous could not c 
 deny them c 
 without being ( 
 guilty of great 
 Temerity. 
 
 'I* From thence 
 proceeds Eer- 
 tius's Miftake, c . 
 when he fays c 
 (in his (Data- 
 logue of the 
 Bilhops off/- c 
 t echt) Otto 6 
 III 36 Epif- (, 
 copus, Filius 
 GuL Comitis 
 Holl. /edit * 
 16 Hie. 
 
 fertur bapti- c 
 zaffe Herman- t 
 C omitis. 
 
 Hennenberg. 6 
 JL:beros$6$.ex < 
 Maflbilde Flo- c 
 rent ii IF, Co- 
 mitis Holl. * 
 fid a mtos , 
 
 Losdun. ^ 2V&a> Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 fidemque Tabulae ad teftandam fempiternam 
 rei Memoriam poiitae difiolvere nefas putarem* 
 Confimilis exempli, in partu numerofo, obfer- 
 vati fides (* NE QUID POTENTIAL DEI 
 DEROGETUR ) adnotata legitur, ab Anna- 
 lium Brunfvicenfium Scriptore : Confentienti- 
 bus Alberto Crantzio in Vandalicse Hiftoriae 
 Commentariis ; & Ernefto, Anbaldnorum 
 Principum Hiftoriographo, quorum confenfus 
 teftatur Tricefimo Septimo poft praedidhim 
 prodigium Anno, Margaretam (huic de qua 
 loquimurcognominern) Holftenii Comitis Con- 
 jugem, TOTIDEM capitum Sobolem matu- 
 ro partu enixam edidiffe ; in quo Foetus o ni- 
 nes Humanam manifefte fpeciem repraefentan- 
 tes, in Baptifterio falutari Utida abluti fuerint. 
 Porro, Ariftarchi cujufpiam miniatas ceras de- 
 pofeere videtur id quod Jo, Cufpinianus (qui 
 Caefarum vitas diligenter annotavir, fcripfitquej 
 •a noftris Annalibus non par um evarians, 
 Madbildem Sororem Gulielmi Caefaris, Comi- 
 tem Hennebergenfem nominat hanc ipfam, 
 quam nos Filice puerpers Matrem diximus, 
 quam (ut ipfe Numerum init) trecentos quin- 
 quaginta Foetus uno partu, (Fidem omnem 
 fuperante MIRACULO) excutiffe praedicat 
 ab f Othone Avunculo Trajedlino Praefule in 
 Pelvis Labro Baptifmo tindlos. 
 
 4 Nos, Fahuke penfilis , quee in Lofdunenfi Fam 
 Rei Memoriae confeerata ejl, fidem fequimur j 
 quam, eo libentius luc inferuimus, quod ani- 
 madvertam non piguifle ClarifTimos viros De- 
 fid. Erafmum, & Ludovicum Yivem, Au- 
 dloritatem rei geftte Monumentis Scriptorum 
 publice teftatam 2 ad pofteros tranfmittere. 
 
 4 Extatque 
 
Part I. 
 
 /a ITALY. Losdun. 
 
 4 * 
 
 c Extatque * hodie fupra TVorcomium cisMofe ri- * That is to 
 6 pam, Arx ejufdem Memories Teftis PUERORUM ^ 
 
 4 cognorrime nuncupata , qua totidem quot fuerunt cum # U p 0n t h e 
 c Capita Fenefirasolim ofientabat , Roffemiae Maefe, a Ca- 
 
 4 Familiae propria. ' ^5» whlch is 
 
 x x a Monument 
 
 or a Memorial of the Truth of this prodigious Hiflory, They call it, the 
 Children's Qafile, and they have made as many Windows in it, as Marga- 
 ret, Countefs of Hennenberg , had Children at one Birth. This Caftle be- 
 longs, at prefent ^ 1688.) to thofe of the Rojfem Family. 
 
 The Opinion, which is univerfally almoft 
 eftablifhed among the Proteftants, according to 
 which, they are perfuaded that MIRACLES 
 ARE CEASED, is the only Obftacle that makes 
 them place thefe Sorts of Prodigies among the 
 Rank of thofe Things that we ought not to be- 
 lieve. The greateft Part of thofe that belong to 
 the Sandluary itfelf, have accuftomed themfelves 
 to treat at firft dafh, fuch Matters of Fact, as 
 old Womatfs ’Tales , without entring into any far- 
 ther Examination. But fince an Opportunity 
 prefents itfelf here, I will freely declare, that, 
 in my Opinion, Tis not fufneient for us to have 
 once poflefied our Fancies with thefe Sorts of 
 Prejudices, and afterwards to make ufe of them 
 as certain and well eftablifhed Truths. For Men 
 that realon jaftly , ought always to have very 
 ftrong and evident Reafons for the important 
 Matters of Fadt they advance, or deny. When 
 thofe, who profefs Atheifm, abfolutely deny all 
 t fupernatural Operation , their Condudl, is in fome 
 Sort of Manner fupportable (although they adt 
 raflily) becaufe their Negations are Confequences 
 
 of 
 
 + I lhall here infert a Sort of Paradox, which I fhall ex- 
 plain. Nature is a Word equivocal, or mi Hinder Hood. All 
 fupernatural Operations (according to the common Language) 
 are no lefs natural than any other under the Heavens : And 
 
 yhis undifeerned Truth is plainly confonant with the general 
 Principles of all thofe that call themfelves Chriftians. See/. 44. 
 
42 
 
 A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 of their Principles. But for thofe, who boait 
 themfelves to believe in God, to acknowledge 
 his Providence, and believe his former Revela- 
 tions *, they certainly fall into a manifeil and 
 intolerable Contradi&ion, when they deny thefe 
 Operations as being impoffible ; as they make 
 themfelves, at the fame Time, guilty of down- 
 right Blafphemy. A1J the DoSiors of Divinity , as 
 they calTem, teach in their Pulpits, and in their 
 Schools, exprefsly, that the Arm of God is not Jbor- 
 tened ; and they preach unanimoufly the D. Trine 
 of the Mtniftry of Angels , (TIeb.i. 14. Pf xxx 8 0 
 and xci. ir.) of thofe fpiritual and intelligent Beings 
 who are employed by Providence , that is to fay, 
 by God, to operate and perform feveral Things 
 that he has decreed. The holy Spirits that (land 
 before the Throne of God, fay thefe Divines , are 
 the Couriers , the Embaffadors of their Almighty 
 Mailer, and Executors of his Orders: They are 
 Guides , Comforters , and Protestors of the Faith- 
 ful ; and ’tis for this Reafon, that in our Prayers, 
 in the * Liturgy itfelf, we afk of God the A(Ti- 
 ftance of thefe Angels *, nothing is more pofitive. 
 ? Tis upon this Account alfo, that our Preachers 
 exclaim with great Zeal, againft thofe, who, are 
 infedled with Sadducifm. Befides, thefe Truths 
 being fuppos’d, the Teachers own, that the Ope- 
 rations of the holy Angels, being fupernatural, 
 or independent on the Mechanifm of Nature, are 
 miraculous • How then do they fo eafily fall into 
 the Ulufiori of their Axiom, Lhat God works no 
 Miracles ; or, to make ufe of the Expreflion they 
 have confecrated, THAT MIRACLES ARE 
 
 CEASED 
 
 * O everlafting God, who haft ordained and conftituted 
 the Services of Angels and Men in a wonderful Order; mer- 
 cifully grant, that as the holy Angels alway do thee Service 
 in Heaven ; fo, by thy Appointment, they may fuccour and 
 defend us on Earth ; through Jefus Chrift our Lord. Com- 
 mon- Prayer) St Michael's- Day. 
 
Part I. to ITALY. 0 
 
 CEASED * FOR EVER,? Thofe of the Rc~ 
 m\Jh Faftion, have fill’d their Legends , without 
 the kail Modefty or Difcretion, with an innume- 
 rable Number of Fables, feveral of which, are 
 no lefs abfurd than untrue ; and we, to oppofe 
 them, are fallen into the oppofite Extream \ and 
 we have carried this Excefs fo far, that we had 
 
 [ rather join with the Modern f Jews , in maintain- 
 ing, as they do, a F'alfity, which is both mani- 
 feft and injurious to the Divinity *, and in bor- 
 rowing the wicked Arms qf thefe Mifcreants, 
 than to leave a Stone unturned, to oppofe the 
 RotnaniJlSi who are the moft troublefome of all 
 pur Enemies : ’Tis this, probably, that is the 
 Sourfe of our Miftake. A itrange Thing indeed! 
 that fo many Men of Gravity and good Senfe, 
 
 Ihould imagine that fuch a Dodfrine, manifeftly 
 fcandalous and impious, fhould not want Proofs; 
 and that it is fufficient for them coldly to fay, 
 that God works no more Miracles without being 
 obliged to convince thofe that hear them, by 
 the ftrongeft Arguments, of the Truth of fo im- 
 portant an Hypothefis! however, ’tis what they 
 ought to do. The Pleafure I take in converfing 
 with you by thefe Letters, after our wonted Fa- 
 miliarity and Freedom, has occafioned this fmall 
 Digrefiion *, tho’ I hope, you will not look upon it 
 as a Teltimony of my Belief concerning theTruth 
 pf the Prodigy we have been fpeaking of, for 
 
 I keep 
 
 * This Axiom, almoft generally received among feveral Ptfv 
 tcftant Se£h, that Miracles are ceafed, necefiarily imports t{ic 
 Suppolition of a Ceftation without a Return ; or at lealt a long 
 Dilcontinuance pofiti vely declared and marked for a certain time : 
 for if Miracles have not ceafed, but as the Rain and Thunder 
 ceale now and then, one may perhaps expedt Miracles every Day. 
 
 f The modern Jews fay, that God has ceafed to work Mi- 
 racles, ever fmce the Deftruttion of their firft Temple ; and our 
 common Controvertifts have adopted this idleDream, to make ufe; 
 of it againfl theLegends. To fay, Miracles are ceafed, is a ground- 
 lefs Folly, if not a difingenuous Impudence, faith Dr Siubbes^ 
 
u 
 
 A New Voyage 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 I keep my Judgment in Sufpence, as to that 
 Point ; and fee no Neceflity of labouring much 
 to determine it. But I have willingly embraced 
 this Opportunity that has offered it felf of telling 
 you, that we ought not to rejedl, as falfe, all 
 Fadls that we can’t naturally explain, (they un- 
 doubtedly being in the Predicament of Super- 
 naturals) in declaring my felf flrenuoufly againfl 
 the Libertines, who own no other Power, than 
 the * Power of Nature; and on the other Side, 
 againfl thofe that, calling themlelves Chriflians, 
 abandon jnconfiderately one of their great Prin- 
 ciples, and fall into a mofl pernicious Error ; I 
 deplore this Indolence and Blindnefs. I am alfo 
 afraid, that a certain pradlical Atheifm, is the 
 Source, or Refuge of that Incredulity we now 
 a-days fee fo much in Vogue, concerning thefe 
 Sorts of Things. Nothing is more miferahle , and 
 contemptible , than a credulous Temper *, v/e ought 
 never to admit of any thing for Truth, without 
 having folid Proofs, and clear Reafons to con- 
 vince us : But neither is it in our Power to op- 
 
 pofe our felves, by fimple and voluntary Nega- 
 tions, againfl the Truth of Matters of Fadt, that 
 are well attefled : We mufl allow of ’em, without 
 grounding our Negative upon our Ignorance of 
 the fecret Springs-, even, when we find our felves 
 forced to have Recourfe to fupernatural Ways of 
 Adting. We mufl yield, indeed, to the Evidence 
 of De?nonft rations : For, to pretend after an ar- 
 bitrary Manner to flight and rejedl Demonflra- 
 tion, it is a foolifh and ridiculous Temerity. 
 
 ofi{o. d m 7 . 1 am > Sir > Toiir ’ &c = 
 
 * Sec the laft marginal Note, p. 41 . 
 
 LETTER. 
 
Parti. to ITALY. Utrecht. 
 
 45 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 SIR , 
 
 were Seven full Hours on the Canal 
 VY between Amjlerdam and Utrecht , yet we 
 fpent the Time with a great deal of Pleafure ; 
 I not only becaufe of the fair Weather, and the 
 I fine Country i but efpecially of the Company 
 we had the good Fortune to meet with in the 
 
 I Boat. 
 
 We left on the Right-hand, (three Leagues 
 ; from Amjlerdam ) the old Cattle of * Abcow with * Abcoudia 
 the Village of the fame Name, where are the gens opulent a 
 Bounds of the Province of Holland and we-^, Muftris 
 entered into that of Utrecht. It was late when ^ll^^omen) 
 we arrived in that City, and fome Circumftances q Ua trientem 
 of our Affairs, having obliged us to leave it, Agrorum Jn 
 \ almoft immediately after our Arrival (in Hopes TrajeRenfiDi- 
 ; of returning :) I fhall not have many Things to ^Mj/edki- 
 I fay to you concerning it, at prcfent. tur. Eadem 
 
 poj/edit Bata - 
 
 I t odurum Oppidum , cum Arce. Ex bac AJfuerus prim a Arcis Abcoudi fun - 
 I d ament a, inter uliginfs paludes, qua vix in adult a /Eft ate plaujlris accef- 
 l fus pat et, med. inter Trajeftutn & Amflelodamum It it: ere, jecit , ut memoria 
 1 prodiderun t Ann ales. Emit & Gaesbecar.am Ditionem , &c. (Hadr. Junius 
 1 in Batavia lua.) P. Eertius fcribit Abbekevolda pro Abcoudia. 
 
 This City begins to abate of that extream UTRECHT, 
 Neatneis we have obferved in all Towns and Vil- ^Q m r ^. a a nd 
 lages, throughout theProvince called properly^?/- a jf 0 p an Arch- 
 land\ tho* it yet retains much of it. It is fituated bifhoprick. 
 in a higher and better Ground. The Canals and 
 Ditches are changed into Hedges ; and the Mea- 
 dows ire: plowed Fields-, a Change that we 
 find very agreeable. One may, I believe, fay 
 
 that 
 
Utrecht, A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 that the VII famous United Provinces , are the 
 fulled of Towns, and generally the bed peo- 
 pled, of any Place in Europe ; but I cannot tell 
 whether one may altogether rely upon what Ar- 
 nold Rekelius, one of the Writers of Chronicles of 
 the Country has affirmed *, that one may go from 
 Utrecht on foot in one Day, and vifit Sixty one 
 Towns or walled Places, which are fituated up 
 and down in that Neighbourhood. I could 
 wifli that Writer had given us the Names of 
 thofe Places % for we mod indifcreetly exag- 
 gerate Things too much : Exceflive Praifes ge- 
 nerally produce Contempt for the Objedte we 
 boad of, indead of raifing an Edeem of them; 
 Here are the very W ords of Bekelius. Illnd , 
 
 inter alia , fingid-are & prcecipuum habet Urbs veftra ; 
 quod in eo loco fita & locaia eft , a quo , digreffis, 
 unins tantum did ftpatio , ad unum & fexaginta mu- 
 ratis Oppidis i quee circumjacent , non curru vel equo 
 vehi tantum , fed & pedejlri itinere contendere ac 
 pervenire liberum fit. Another has written, that 
 of thefc fixty one Towns to which one may go, 
 there are Thirty three of them that are fo near 
 Utrecht , that one may return the fame Day, 
 
 Ws vifited the Remains of the Cathedral- 
 Church, which was almod entirely dedroyed 
 fome Years ago by a prodigious Temped, I (hall 
 be able to fay fomething of the furprizing Parti- 
 culars of this Storm, when I am at Leifure. The 
 Tower of that fame Church is very high, but not 
 fo high as the People at Utrecht imagine it j for 
 they have a Notion in their Heads, that it is 
 the highed in the World : Thofe that have never 
 been abroad, are almod all of them apt to form 
 fuch wrong Judgments. Monconys fays, That 
 they go up to the Top of this Tower by 457 
 Steps -, fuppofe that one of thefe Steps is half 
 a Foot high* that does not make much more 
 
Part I. VITALY. Utrecht* 
 
 than a third Part of the Height of the Pyra- 
 mid of Strasbough : And how many Steeples 
 
 have we, that are much higher than the Tower 
 at Utrecht , in France , and in England , without 
 going out of our own Countries to fearch af- 
 ter them ? This Tower was begun, fay the 
 Chronicles of John de Beka y in the Year 1320. 
 and finiflied in the Year 1 363, according to fome, 
 and 1383, according toothers. The Infoription 
 i Upon that Tower, in two Latin Verfes (whofe 
 1 firft cannot be fcanned) mark the Year 1321. 
 f (M. y C.ter , Xbis, fc? femel L) as being that of 
 the Foundation ; but without any farther decla- 
 1 ration of the Matter. 
 
 M. C. ter , X. bis: Semel L Fefto Paulique Johannis 
 Furr is adapt atur, qua Frajeftum decoratur : 
 
 They carried us alfo to another Church, which 
 j is dedicated to S. Mary ; where we took Notice 
 of the Figure of an Ox, againft a Pillar ; above 
 which is written. 
 
 Accipe , Pofieritas , quod per tria ftecula narres : 
 
 Faurinis cutibus fundo folidata Columna eft . 
 
 That is a Memorial, they fay, of the cun- 
 ning Contrivance of an Architect, who deli- 
 • vered thofe that built this Church, from the 
 great Perplexity they were in, in Relation to 
 : this very Place, when their Piles, notwithstanding 
 their great Length, could not reach any folid 
 Foundation. This Architedi, fay thefe Verfes, 
 
 \ ' (for I own I don’t undetftand well the Affair) 
 found a Way to make a folid Foundation in this 
 Gulf without a Bottom, with fome Oxes Hides. 
 
 ■ Faurinis cutibus fundo folidata columna eft: (Franfeat.) 
 There are very curious Relicks in this Church, as 
 

 4 * 
 
 Utrecht. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 the Churchwarden told us. Amongft the reft, a 
 
 Smock of the Virgin Mary's, which they have 
 carefully preferved ; and other Things of this Na- 
 ture ; but which, to fpeak the T ruth, they efteem 
 for the prefent, but as Pieces of Curiofity. 
 
 The Walk of the Pall-Mall is very fine ; and 
 thole of Utrecht efteem it the more, becaufe it 
 was fpared by fpecial Orders of the King of 
 France (then reigning) when he came at the Head 
 of his Army into that City, fome Years ago; 
 though almoft every Thing elfe was deftroyed 
 by that Army in the Neighbourhood. 
 
 This City was adorned with the Title of Uni- 
 verfity , An. 1 639. Tho’ they alfo perform all Sorts 
 of Exercifes, as riding the Great Horfe, &V. 
 which draws abundance of young Gentlemen to 
 that City; which is otherwise very alluring upon 
 
 Account of it’s good Air, and fine Situation. 
 
 was told, that the Library is a little negletfted, 
 and that it has not aeferved, for fome Time, the 
 Name of Bibliotheque Publique ; fince it has not 
 been opened at fet Hours, for the Ufe of the 
 Publick. To fpeak freely, they deferve highly 
 to be reproached, who, by fuch Negligences, 
 deprive Men of Letters of fo great an Advan- 
 tage and Afiiftance. The Elogium on Sodomy, 
 written by J. Cafa , Bilhop of Benevento , was, 
 as they informed me, one of the curious Pieces 
 of this Library. I know not, if what they added 
 be true, that the French carried this Rarity away, 
 when they came to vifit Utrecht , as I have ob- 
 ferved to you already, in the Year 1672. 
 
 The happy * Union concluded here in the me- 
 morable Mr a ; ( 1 579) which is the Bond and T ye of 
 
 the 
 
 * The Articles of this famous Union have been publiflied on 
 feveralOccafions. But they are to be found, with an Addition 
 of feveral political Reflections, in Sir William Temple's Re J 
 marks on the State of the United Provinces* 
 
Part I. VITALY, Utrec h t. 
 
 the Republick will for ever be an Honour to 
 this City •, and perhaps, the greated it has had, 
 or can expert to have. The Republick being 
 I refolved never more to fubmit to Spain ( whole 
 > Yoke they had fliook off) firft were .willing to 
 l put themfelves under the Prote&ion of France , 
 
 ! and afterwards of England (of Henry III. and 
 I Elizabeth *, ) having Need, as they thought then, 
 i when Philip II was enraged againd ’em, of fome 
 ( powerful Protection, fuch as one of thofe two. 
 
 But the Event has demondrated, that nothing 
 t better could have happened to ’em, than remain- 
 ing Mailers of themfelves ; Providence having 
 poured out in Abundance his choiced Bleffmgs 
 on thefe happy and glorious Provinces. 
 
 I took a Turn round the City, viewed it on 
 every Side, and can fay it pleafed me extreamly? 
 If, it was not the Neceffity that obliges me to 
 i finilh this Letter in hade, I would fend you wiL 
 j lingly the intire Ode made in it’s Praile, which a 
 I Friend of mine diewed me lad Night, and which 
 i perhaps you have not feen. 
 
 0 Gentis Batavee Regia Splendida , 
 
 Quis non fufpiciat te , atqne Situm tuum , 
 
 Intus fi fpatietur , 
 
 Aut for is per Agros tuosl 
 CircumfleEle oculos , quifquis es ! &c. 
 
 THIS very Bay , the feventh of Decemb. 
 
 1 M. DC C. Xf while I am bufy in revifing this Sheets 
 I for a new Edition of thefe Letters , I hear that the 
 \ QUEEN has juft now declared to both Houfes of Par- 
 \ liamenty that the City of Utrecht is named , by herMa- 
 1 jeftfs Conjenty as the Place appointed for a Treaty of 
 
 I Peace. Tho ’ a happy Succefs of thefe Conferences may be 
 looked upon as very doubtful , confidering theprefent Cir- 
 cumftances offeveral Things *, yet 9 tis not necejfary we 
 I Vol.I. . E ,/hould 
 
5 ° 
 
 Utrecht*. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Jhculd defpair of it : Qui nihil poteft fperare, fays 
 Seneca, defperet nihil. However , upon this agree- 
 able News , I have a Mind to add here , a Sort of 
 a Congratulation , to the fair and good City of Utrecht 
 (which receives new Luftre from this Event *,) by 
 joyning fome new hiftorical Observations , to the Re- 
 marks I have formerly made upon it , and which 
 you have juft now read . 
 
 Those that publifh Defcriptions of Cities, 
 generally endeavour to extoll them, in order to 
 pleafe their Inhabitants : And thefe Writers ne- 
 ver fail to infill upon the noble Article of the 
 Antiquity of thefe Places, as upon a glorious 
 Title for them, though they/ find never fo little 
 Reafon or Colour to do it. *Tis thus that fe- 
 ver a 1 Authors have exalted (tho’ not grounded 
 enough) the great Antiquity of Utrecht . They 
 have carried the Date of it’s Foundation farther 
 than they ought, without confidering that falle 
 Praifes turn to the Difgrace of thofe whom we 
 boaft of, rather than to their Honour. When 
 Philip II, came to Utrecht > the .Magi Urates caufed 
 this Infcription to be iixed upon the Gate, through 
 which he made his Entry. 
 
 ANTON IN I PII IMP. 
 
 F'ELICIBUS AUSPICIIS 
 URBS TRAJECTENSIS INST AURAT A ; 
 FELICIORIBUS 
 
 PER PIENT1SS. IMP. CAROLUM V. 
 
 AUCTA: 
 
 FELICISS IMAM 
 
 SE HOC PRINCIPE FUtURAM 
 HAUD DUBIA S PE CON FID IT. 
 
 A n d William Par a din relates two other In- 
 fer! ptiens in Verfe, that he has feen in the Cathe- 
 dral 
 
 * 
 
Parti. to ITALY. Utrecht. 51 
 
 dral Church at Utrecht , in which are exprefied fe- 
 veral other hiftorical Particularities, concerning 
 the Foundation of this City and Church. Tho’ 
 thefe Verfes are bad enough in all Refpedts, yet 
 fince they were thought worthy to be placed as 
 Monuments in a Church, I fhall not do an un- 
 reafonable Thing in putting them here : And in 
 order to explain them in fome Meafure, I will 
 add as a Comment on them, the Subftance of 
 what three or four Annalifts of that Country, 
 have written on the fame Subjedt ; whether in 
 criticifing on the Fadts that thefe Verfes contain, 
 or approying of them. 
 
 T RAJ E C TU M CIFITAS. 
 
 Circumquaque fluens Hollandia gurgite Rheni 
 Cingitur *, Oceano , Fluminibufque Mans, 
 
 In qua cum Maris Urbs * Antonina novellis, 
 
 Tempore -f* Neronis , cedificata fait. 
 
 Hanc devaftavit || fera Gens, § Flammaq\ & ibidem * The City of 
 Cajlrum ** Vuiltorum - condilur inde novum Utrecht is ne- 
 
 Tur ribas excelfts : quod adhuc Plebs -ff Abroditorum Yonha nor An- 
 Funditus evertens diruit ufque Jolum : tonia , by any 
 
 ancient Au- 
 thor. Thefe are new Names, which perhaps were given by fome Conque- 
 rors or Re/iorers, fay John de Beka, and William Heda his Commentator 
 (who was Dean of Utrecht .) f They have made a thoufand Efforts to find 
 out, or to fuppofe fome Founder of the Name of Antoninus , or Antonins , or 
 die of Antonia ; but all to no Purpofe. Junius fays that Si c mminifei ali- 
 quid lie ere t d vero non abfimile , recurrendum ejfet vel ad Antonium prim um 
 Senatorem & Legatum Vefpafiani y cui cum Cwi/i Batavo amicitia fuerat ; 
 quemque Senatorid Dignitate exutum a Nerone, ac falfi damnatum y prij - . 
 tino inde refiitutum Ordini & Loco memorat Tacitus: Vel ad M. Antoni - 
 um Julii Caf. Legatum , &c. Vel all M. Antoninum Pium , &c. But af- 
 ter all. He reje&s thefe Conjectures. || Nortmannorum procella ab axe Bore- 
 ali effufa y hanc Urbetn excidio corrupit , mnemque Sexum ferro abfumpfit, 
 Afridi prafulis Tempore, [circa annum 834 ) § The Writers of Chronicles 
 note the Years of feveral other great Burnings ** We fhall fpeakof thefe 
 V ultes by and by. +f Called alfo Abotriti Gens Francis feeder at a, fays 
 Junius. 
 
5 2 Utrecht, A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 * He means Hinc FrajePlenfe C aft rum, cum Meenibus altis 
 f Tho^Ar- Conditur a * Francis Chrifticohs. Sed idem 
 mies of the V ul gus 1 " Danorum confregit humo terns : Gmnes 
 North which Cam Clefo Cives infimul Enfe necanU 
 have been Denique || Baldricus Pretful nova Mcen&a ftruxit , 
 
 Jfxt Bore ali ef- . mr ^° fubfiftunt , auxiliante Deo . 
 fufa> have of- ^ lc Hollander ft Ferret veraciter omni 
 
 ten ravaged FrajeEum conftat Urbs § Capitalis adhuc . 
 thefe Coiin- * ^ 
 
 tries. J| Son of the Count de Cleves , and the 1 5th Bijhop of Utrecht. § One of 
 the principal Cities of the Country, and of which the Bilhop, Prince of 
 tneEmpirc, was a pretty powerful Lord, when thefe Verfes were fet up as 
 a Monument in the great Church. 
 
 FEMPLUM CAFHEDRALE. 
 
 Several have Fcmpore Francorum * Dagcberti Regis , in ifto 
 
 Dagobert built fundo conditur Ip [a decens 
 
 the Cathedral Pnimitus Ecclefta fanfti *f Fhomet || [rope Caftrum 
 Church at the IrajeEum, quam Gens § Phrifeca fregit atrox. 
 thTcit^^a** ^ ** prior AntiftesDcminus -f *f Clemens , oh honor em 
 but that is Ter y SanfH |||| Martini , poft renovavit earn, 
 
 reafonably Defedis Hildrici fub tempore Regis. At illam 
 contradicted Fretful §§ Adelboldus fregit *, ab inde novam 
 f^Some^be- He clef am fundans , (Henrici tempore % primi 
 lieve, that from Cet Paris eleffi,) qu am duodena cohors 
 
 that time St Pontificum pariter bene dixit. Demque Fretful 
 
 Martin was = Henricus ter pit hanc renovare fuam 
 «“twemuft Zcclefiam, Regis Gnlielmi tempore . Quifnam ? 
 
 obferve the FLoUandenfis erat Jnclytus ifie Comes . 
 
 Word prope, as 
 
 it fhall be faid afterwards. § Frifeland (bothEaft and Weft) had formerly it’s 
 Dukes (called alfo Kings;) and thofe Princes were often at War with the 
 neighbouring Lords. Charlemagne conquered them at laft, and reduced their 
 Countries intp ii Province. (<i>^e7o/, apud Dionem , timi & Qepririoi ; 
 
 P totem b) ** Willibrordus , firft Biihop of Utrecht ; fome fay Archbifhop. 
 He was an Anglo-Saxon, and came into that Country, during the Time 
 that Pepin the Younger made War upon Ralbodus , Duke or King of Frife- 
 iand , an idolatrous Prince. Pepin fent him to Rome in the Year 694, 
 where Pope Sergius changed his Name into that of Clement, as it is to be 
 ken in the fame Verfe. At his Return, in 696, they pretend he rebuilt 
 the Cathedral. Marcellinus, a Prieit who was his Contemporary, has 
 
 written 
 
Parti. VITALY. Utrecht. 53 
 
 written his Life. f + Though Sergius had given him the Name of Cle- 
 ment he was (till called Willibrord. Ij|| St Martin of Tours , (whofe Life 
 has been written by Sulpitius Sever us.) Gregory of Tours fays, that this 
 Martin was of Sabaria or Savaria, a Town concerning which antient Au- 
 thors write varioufly ; fome placing it in Auftria , and others (more commonly) 
 in Hungary. He came to Milan y and from thence to Tours. He was, fay they, 
 z great Worker of Miracles : He raifed three Perfons from the Dead ; and died 
 aged 81 Tears , towards the End of the fourth Century. He was Patron of the 
 whole Diocefe, but they gave him Thanks for his former Proteflion, and took 
 his Name out of the City-Seal, when the Bifhop Henry of Bavaria refigned the 
 Temporalities of his Bilhoprick to the Emperor Charles V, as will be obferved 
 hereafter. §$ Named alfo Adrobaldus, zfrifelander , and the nineteenth Bifhop; 
 towards the Year 1020, he pulled down the Church, which was fallen intoDe- 
 cay, and rebuilt it. % Bertius fays, Henry II ; and indeed, Henry I, called the 
 Fowler , died in 936, a long time before that, f 4 - Bertius reports, that twelve 
 Bilhops aflifted at the Ceremony of the Confecration of this Church. = Hen- 
 ry of Viana y the 38th Bilhop, rebuilt the Church new from the Ground; that 
 which we now fee, is the Remains of it. This Bilhop died in 1 267. 'S.lVil- 
 liam Count of Holland was created Emperor in 1248, and died in 1257. 
 
 ADRIAN JUNIUS , a Phyfician of Horn in 
 Well Frif elands fwho wrote his Batavia in 1575) 
 does not believe, as I have already remarked, 
 that the City of Utrecht was ever called either 
 Antonia or Antonina , by any antient Author ; 
 but he does not deny in one Senfe, that it has 
 not been called formerly, Vultabourg or Wilteti- 
 hoiirg) as having been built by the Vultes , which 
 he alfo names Wiltes. I fay, that he reconciles 
 that Matter pretty well, provided it be granted 
 him, that Utrecht) which is now in Being, has been 
 built, at more than two Leagues from that Wil- 
 tenbourg ; for he allures us, That this Cajlellum , 
 formerly deftroyed by the Abotriti (or the Abro - 
 did) of whom there is Mention made in the 
 Verfes at the Cathedral ) was two German Miles 
 from the Place, where we now fee Utrecht : ut 
 ibfe> fays he, Ocidis afpexi. He adds, that others 
 believe, that Dagobert , Son to King Clotaire II, 
 laid the Foundation of Utrecht) in the 7th Centu- 
 ry, and called it Trajeclum , becaufe there was a 
 Pali age there from the Rhine , and a Cuftom- 
 E 3 Houfe 
 
54 
 
 Utrecht. A New Voyage VoL I. 
 
 Houfe, or a Toll-Booth; but he is not of that 
 Opinion, becaufe he holds it for certain, (againft 
 John de Beka) that the City of Utrecht bore the 
 Name of Trajelium in the Itinerary of Antoninus , 
 a long while before Dagobert’s Time. Others 
 have imagined, fays Junius alfo, that the fa- 
 mous Ulpius ‘ Trajanus , who was Prefect at that 
 Time in Germany, under Domitian , had founded 
 this fame City, and called it by his own 
 Name, Ulpia Trajeffiina ( inftead of 'I raj an a ) and 
 that from Ulp-Trajeffina , was formed UltrajeElum ; 
 but neither does Junius agree with this Opi- 
 nion, which is certainly abfurd ; and here is 
 what he finds more probable : This Antiquary 
 having obferved that the City of Utrecht is named 
 Utricefium and U trice fima, by Lumber tus Horten - 
 fins , and fome others, he was very inclinable 
 to believe, that the modern Name of Utrecht, 
 is nothing but a Contraction of Utricefium , 
 marked by the fir ft Letters, which are UTRIC , 
 And as for the Name of Utricefium, what he 
 thinks of it, is, that as the ignorant common 
 People may have feen the Words, or the follow- 
 ing Letters engraven on the Gates, or in fome 
 other Place of the City, U. TRIG. LEG . ST AT. 
 to fignify, Quint ce Tricefimce Legionis Stativa , will 
 at firft read it UTRIC, without minding the 
 Stop (perhaps effaced,) which ought to be at the 
 Side of the numeral Letter U , and without in- 
 quiring any farther about the two Syllables 
 that follow : And that from this UTRIC ill un- 
 derload, and turned into a Cuftom, was formed 
 the Name of Utrecht, uled at this prefent Time. 
 There are, methmks, two or three Reafons to 
 be all edged againft this Suppofition : However, 
 ftis what Junius flicks to ; and to maintain his 
 Conjedture, he relates a Fadt juft like it, that 
 he had from a learned German Antiquary, named 
 
S5 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Ut recht, 
 
 John Heroldus. This Author remarks in his C«- 
 rious Objervations , fays J unius , that the Town 
 of CANTS TAT in Suabia , took it’s Name from 
 LEG . ANT. ST AT. Words formerly ingraven 
 upon a Piece of Marble, and expofed to pub 
 lick View in the fame Town *, which fignified, 
 Legionis Antonipnce Stativce. The two firft Let- 
 ters, L E being worn out, there remained GANT 
 SEAT \ and from that Gantftat read without any 
 Points, the G being changed into C, the com- 
 mon People made Cantjlat. 
 
 IVILLIAM HEDA ) Arnold Bekelius and Lamb. 
 
 . Hortenfnis are of the Number of thole, who, 
 without much Confideration, have faid that Utrecht 
 had antiently born the Name of Antonina , and 
 Antonia , which is a Sort of Contradiction •, but 
 they cannot find a Reaion for it, any more than 
 Junius. And P . Bertius , a very learned Man, 
 pofitively denies the Fact, as well as John de 
 Beka ; Sunt eqnidem 9 fays Bertius , qui Antoniam 
 initio diftam putent *, fed non video , unde hoc babe* 
 ant. — Antomam if am neque fummi 9 neque medii 
 JEvi Scriptor quifquam novit : Quocirca , pro fabu- 
 la illud habendu?n cenfeo. 
 
 VENERABLE BEDE , and Sigebert the Wri- 
 ter of Chronicles, makes fome Mention alfo of 
 a Vultebourg 9 a Caltle upon the Rhine , that was 
 commonly called Trajeftum 9 fay they, Lingud 
 Gallicd. A very ftrange Thing, as I may fay by 
 the By, that thefe Writers Ihould not know, that 
 the Word Trajeftum was neither Gaulifh nor 
 French , but Latin. But thefe two Authors were 
 very far from giving us any Hint of the Etymo- 
 logy of the new Word Utrecht , fince it was not 
 ufed in their Time. He da without going any far- 
 ther, will have it from Outnecht , which in good 
 German fignifies the antient Pajfage \ Trcqedium 
 vetus. Others derive Utrecht from Vidt-trajcFium, 
 E 4 as 
 
56 
 
 Utrecht. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 as Vultarum Trajettum. Some, as I have already 
 faid from Ulp-TrajeBum, ab Ulpio Trajano. And 
 others again, from ultra or ulterius Trajeftum, 
 with relation to Trajeftum Superius , called Mae- 
 ftricht , or Mofce Trajeflum. As for what Heda 
 and Junius affirm with Bertius , that this City is 
 mentioned by the Name of Trajeffium in Antoni - 
 nus's Itinerary, is a very doubtful Thing *, fince 
 it is certain, as it has been obferved by Be- 
 kelius , that feveral modern Cities have beea in- 
 difcreetly placed in that antient Itinerary, by 
 the different Editors of that Book, in the laft 
 Ages. This Bekelius proves clearly ; and me- 
 thinks, it is very probable, that Conrad Peutinger y 
 who is an exa£t Man, has looked upon this Tra- 
 jeffum of Antoninus's Itinerary, as having been 
 falfely inferted, fince he has not put it down in 
 his Tables. 
 
 All unanimoufly agree, That the City of U- 
 trecht having been feveral Times befieg’d, plun- 
 dered, burnt, and almoft deftroyed, Biffiop BaU 
 trie of Cleves rebuilt it almoft entirely, and 
 encompafs’d it with Walls, towards the Year 
 970. It never fuflered more, than by the ter- 
 rible Diforders that the Civil Wars occafioned in 
 the Time of the Hoecks and Cabelliaus *, cruel 
 Faftions, by which the whole Country was laid 
 wafte with Fire and Sword, towards the Mid- 
 dle of the fourteenth Century. ( Hoex fignifies 
 
 Fifn-nook ; and Cabelliau is the Name of a very 
 common Fiffi in the Seas of Holland ; ’ns a fort 
 of Cod-fiffi, that John de Beka calls Afellus. 
 
 We have no Reafon to believe that the City 
 of Utrecht was ever larger than it is at prefent : 
 Junius ffiarply reproves Dominick Niger , for affu- 
 ring us, that this City was able to furniffi, in 
 it’s Grandeur, Forty thoufand fighting Men ; 
 and he alfo refufes to hear Volaterran , JEneas 
 
 Sylvius x 
 
57 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Utrecht. 
 
 Sylvius , Barlandus and others, who all lay that the 
 Bilhop could raife that Number of Soldiers with- 
 in his Diocefs. 
 
 LAMBERT HORTENS IUS , whom we have 
 often .already quoted, has written, according to 
 Raphael Volaterran , that formerly there was a Sea- 
 Port at Utrecht *, which is not at all impro- 
 bable, as fome have thought, who only conli- 
 dering the prefent Difpofition of the Ground, 
 and die Diftance from the Sea, have not remem- 
 bered that in the Times pall, a great Arm of the 
 Rhine ran through Utrecht . Why Ihould we not 
 then eafily comprehend, that Veffels might come 
 up the Rhine as far as this City, and a great deal 
 higher ; as we fee it happens all the World over, 
 and at Rotterdam , for Example, without going 
 out of the fame Country ? 
 
 The fame Writer quotes fome Authors who 
 fay, that Utrecht owes it’s Origine to certain Eng - 
 lifh Giants that fettled in that Place : A Fable, 
 that certainly has it’s Source in certain An- 
 nals that Junius cites, upon another Occafion ; 
 in which we find that the Anglo-Saxons having 
 made themfelves Matters of Great Britain , a vaft 
 Number of the Natives of that Ifle (who were 
 of a gigantick Stature ) left their conquered 
 Country, and crofiing the Seas, came and fet- 
 tled upon the Banks of the Maefe and the Rhine *, 
 and from thefe fugitive Giants, fprung the Vultes 
 (hairy as Bears) thofe whom we have mentioned 
 already, who built the Town and Cattle named 
 Vultenbourgy which many confound with our 
 Utrecht . ’Twould be no very glorious Thing to 
 be the I Hue of thofe Grand Poltroons , if the Hi- 
 ftory were true ; and if otherwife, it would be 
 to deny the Trajeftum of the Itinerary, and 
 it’s pretended Antiquity j for the Saxons did not 
 
 fettle 
 
 i 
 
5§ 
 
 * dfin que par 
 Jdulation , & 
 par Hautlouer , 
 its attirajjent 
 d eux famine nt 
 mainte & 
 mainte Riche/- 
 ft, par Emu- 
 lation. 
 
 A New Vcyage Vol. L 
 
 fettle in England , till a great Way in the fifth 
 Century. 
 
 After all thefe Uncertainties concerning the 
 Foundation of Utrecht , and alfo the Etymology 
 of it’s Name (from whence one may only con- 
 clude, that ’tis impofiible to depend upon any of 
 thofe Things that be certain •,) we muft fay fome- 
 thing alfo of the great Church, befides what has 
 been already remarked in the Notes upon theL#* 
 tin Verfes. Some will have it built by Dagobert: 
 Others, by Willibrordus the ftrftfiifhop (or Arch- 
 bifhop, according to Beda :) And others, by Bo- 
 niface the fecond Bifhop : All that falfely *, fince 
 the Churches or Chapels built perhaps by thofe 
 Perfons, have nothing in common with that we 
 fee now (landing. As for King Dagobert , we 
 muft fcarce mind any ftich Thing that has been 
 faid of him *, for as Du ’fillet has very well ob- 
 ferved, the Monks have attributed to him abun- 
 dance of thofe Sorts of Foundations, under Pre- 
 tence of his being pious, * to the End , fays this 
 Author, that by Flattery and high Commendations, 
 they may draw confiderable Riches from other Princes , 
 by Way of Emulation . In thofe Times the Monk’s 
 Benefactors feldom failed of being made Saints. 
 To give to the Priefts , was the moft fure Way 
 to Salvation : That was called Remedium fro Ani - 
 ma. And we fee now a- days, that this antient 
 Mode is in Fafhion enough here, and every 
 where. The greateft Benefices are alway the belt ; 
 and as St Peter fays, eu% Zfa<rx,on£v , is the 
 general Cuftom in all l imes. 
 
 It has already been obferved, that they differ 
 alfo, about the Name of the Saint* to whom that 
 Church was dedicated : Some add the Holy Crofs 
 to St Martin in the fecond Confecration. But 
 in refpeCl of the Founders, to fpeak the Truth, 
 
 the 
 
*> Part I. VITALY. Utrecht. 59 
 
 the Church which is now ftanding, in Part, 
 j is neither Dagobert 9 s, Willibrord* s, nor Boniface's. 
 
 We may very well believe, without any Abfur- 
 dity, that thefe three built fome Chapel or 
 Church, at Wiltemboiirg , if they were there ; 
 f ' f which difficult Point we can’t eafily refolve:) But 
 j as for this Church, whole Remains are now to be 
 feen at Utrecht , ’tis a Building, that was begun 
 from the Foundations, by Bifhop Henry of Viana , 
 as it has already been obferved, towards the Year 
 1254-, and it was Frederick of Zireck , the forty- 
 third Bifhop that began the high Tower, ('which 
 ■ is now remaining, and of which I have fpokenj 
 : in the Year 1320, or thereabouts. • 
 
 * I say, that at prefent, we fee nothing but * ’Tis truly fo 
 the Remains of the Cathedral of Utrecht ; this of St Paul's 
 Church having been almoft quite deftroyed in 
 our Time, by an extraordinary Tempeft, as it ^ e ^ e built 
 has been already obferved. Thave it from a from the very 
 Perfon who was an Eye-witnefs of it, and very Foundations 
 worthy of Belief, that the greateft Part of the ?P on the Fu- 
 Roof, Timber-work, and all the Covering, were ^ r °. ^hidT 
 taken off, and lifted up fome Diftance into the was deftroyed 
 Air ; remaining fo a little Time, by the Strength hy Fire in the 
 of the Wind *, after which, falling down with X? ar t66 °* 
 great lmpetuofity it burlt, as one may imagine. Church ha? 
 with a terrible Noile. The Body of the Church, nothing in 
 between the Quire and the Tower, was entirely Common with 
 deftroyed, fo that that Space is at prefent thePlaT- and^ 
 empty. A Man of Quality and Worth fSir Wil- ^ame. " 
 liamT.) who, I think, was in Holland at that time, 
 has written, that the Tempeft was fo violent, 
 that it twifted the Columns of Stone which fup- 
 ported the Arches of the Nave of the Church, 
 after fuch a Manner, that they ftill remain 
 twifted, and have rather changed their Figure, 
 than to be broken in Pieces, they being fo very 
 ftrong and well cemented j his own Words are. 
 
Utrecht. A New Voyage Vol. I 
 
 <£he great and antient Cathedral was torn in Pieces 
 by the Violence of this Storm , and the vafi Pillars of 
 Stone that fupported it, were wreathed like a twifted 
 Cord , ( or Halter,) having been fo Jlrongly compofed and 
 cemented , as rather to fuffer fetch a Change of Figure r, 
 than tobreak in Pieces , as other Parts of the Fabrick did \ 
 I would not fpend any Time here, in dit 
 puting this Fadt with the Author that has re- 
 lated it, if it was not becaufe of feveral confi- 
 derable Perfons of Utrecht , who have mentioned 
 it to me, and are all in the fame Error •, without 
 confidering, that what they affirm is phyfecally 
 impoffeble 5 tor two Reafons: Firtf, becaufe no 
 Matter that is not malleable, duElik, or flexible y 
 can ever be twitted. We can never twift a Stone, 
 nor make the kaft of it’s Parts yield, in pre- 
 tending to twine, or wreath them : It is abfo- 
 lutely neceffary, that the Parts which are obliged 
 to yield to Force, in a Matter that is not pliant, 
 be feparated from the rett, by a Rupture pro- 
 perly fo called. Now thefe Columns were of 
 Stone ; and though they had been of thofe 
 Compofitions that are formed in a Mould, 
 and which feveral improperly call fufible \ 
 this Matter would not have been more capable 
 of being twifted, than that of Stone or Marble. 
 But in the lecond Place, if the Columns that 
 we are now fpeaking of, had been of Lead, they 
 could not be twifted, each about it’s Centre by the 
 Tempeft, whofe Force endeavoured ('let us fup- 
 pofe it,) to twift the Church. Suppoie the Body 
 of that Edifice had been turned from it’s Foun- 
 dations by the Violence of a Whirl wind* that 
 had moved it about it’s Center, as a Spindle 
 is turned ; it follows that all the Columns, that 
 fuftained it at fome Diftance from each other, 
 would have been broken in Pieces, or at leaft 
 fallen down : But it is abfurd, to imagine that 
 
 eyery 
 
 I 
 
Part I. to ITALY. Utrecht. 6 i 
 
 :very one of thefe Columns were twifted by fuch 
 in Effort j which Way foever the Thing may 
 :>e taken. The great Violence of this Storm lafted 
 ibout twenty Minutes. Some Perfons have told 
 tie, that the Jews have offered to rebuild the 
 Church, provided, they would grant them at 
 J trecht the fame Liberty that their Brethren en- 
 ;oy at Amfierdam . 
 
 ’Tis fomewhat fingular, that of the LXII Bi- 
 (hops who have kept their See at Utrecht , for near 
 line hundred Years, there is none but the firft 
 ind the Jaft, to whom they have given the Title * Father of 
 d f Archbifhop. IVitlibrordus was fent, fay the Chat-Ies Mar- 
 Writers of Chronicles, by * Pepin de Herftal , u ' 
 
 'called alfo the Grofs , and the Young) to Pope Sen- •}- Fie wa ? a 
 jus the Fir ft : And venerable Bede , who was Co- good Man. He 
 temporary to both of them, relates pofitively, ^hJitfona* 
 that the Pope made him Archbifhop in the Year ^ ery 0 f 
 696.) Mifit Pipinus Virum Venerabilem Willibror- Jlernacum 
 dum Romam , cujus Pontijicatum Sergius habebat , ( now cabe d 
 Doftulans ut Frifonum Genti ARCHIEPISCOPUS 
 or dinar etur •, quod impletum eft , Anno 696. (Beda f rom Treves > 
 de Geftib. Angl. L. V. C. 12.) Andfeveral Wri- where he re- 
 fers have followed Beda. But the Prieft Mar- 
 cellmus , who was alfo his Cotemporary, and has peace.TLwas 
 written the Life of Willibror dus^ with whom he a great Con- 
 lived, does not call him Archbifhop : Neither verter of Pa- 
 does Sjgebert de Gemblours give him any more than p™* and 
 the Title of Bifhop. f Willibrordus , fays he in Accoum^Sm- 
 his Chronicle, a Sergio Papa Clemens agnominatus , piterna Lutis 
 ad prcedicandum Genti Frifonum E PIS CO PUS Pi Hus. They 
 confecratus eft. And how could People think, ^ ^at’L^ht 
 that the Succeffors of an Archbifhop, would take now^and then 
 upon them only the Name of a Bifhop ? Nothing appears in his 
 
 is more improbable. r * omb s that 
 
 the Stones of it 
 
 heave up, and that he works abundance of Miracles there. But, as able Di- 
 vides do not abfolutely deny Miracles, fo they do not cafily believe them : 
 Cheats, and credulous People, being the Perfons that generally make them. 
 
 As 
 
62 
 
 Utrecht. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 As for the fixty-fecond and Jaft Bifhop of 
 Utrecht , Frederick Skenck , Baron of Tautenbourg , 
 (who was chofen in the Year 1561, and died in 
 1580,) I do not find any Body that denies that 
 Paul IV, Pope of Rome , made him an Arch- 
 bilhop ; though the pretended Bifhops of Utrecht , 
 
 Partibus , according to their Language) that 
 have fucceeded this Frederick , fince the Revolu- 
 tion of Affairs in that Country, have contented 
 themfelves with the Title of Bifhop. 
 
 These, to mention it by the By, are fuffered 
 in Holland , provided they do not fpeak in Pub- 
 lick of their pretended Bifhoprick j tho* at the 
 fame Time, the Magiflrates are not ignorant of 
 their fecret Pretenfion : The Mildnefs of the Go- 
 vernment is fo great, that it never difturbs that 
 Gentleman upon any Account, when he does not 
 go out of his Sphere. But they will not fuffer 
 him to refide at Utrecht *, and if he obtains the Li- i 
 berty of flaying there a few Days ("upon his fup- 
 pofed civil Affairs,) that Liberty is not granted to 
 the Bifhop , as Bifhop , but to Peter or John fuch a one : 
 And if he comes thither without Leave, or flays 
 beyond the Time granted him, he would be re- 
 primanded for it. So that, properly {peaking, the 
 States General are ignorant, or will be ignorant, 
 that there is a Bifhop of Utrecht in the World. 
 
 This Prelate was formerly a Prince of the 
 Empire, and powerful enough. Pope Calixtus II, 
 granted them the Miter , and the Infula Pontificia 
 in the Year 1120, and the Emperor Gtho I, the 
 Privilege of coining Money : The Counts of ! 
 Holland owed them Homage. But fome Time 
 before the great Revolution, under Philip II, 
 King of Spain , thefe Prelates confiderably de- 
 clined in their primitive Grandeur, as well as 
 their antient Power. Bifhop Henry of the Houfe 
 of Bavaria , whole Affairs went ill, was obliged 
 
 to ’ 
 
 
Part I. to I T A L Y. Utrecht. 
 
 to refign his temporal Government, in Favour 
 of Charles the Fifth, fin the Year 1529 , ) at the 
 Pope’s Solicitation ; under Pretence that thefe 
 Bifhops were not rich enough to defend the 
 City and Diocefe from the Infults that fome 
 Enemies were capable of making upon them : 
 of which Truth Charles himfelf gave a certain 
 Proof. Henry confented then to what he could 
 not hinder ; and referved only to himfelf the fpi- 
 ritual Government, his Houfe in the City, and 
 a little Country- houfe, with a Penfion of 2000 
 Carolus' s of Gold *, which is pretty near the Plat 
 that the Court of Rome allows to poor Cardi- 
 nals. Henry , at firft, made as if he was very 
 well contented ; and the Bull of Pope Clement 
 the Vllth, gilded the Pill that they made him 
 fwallow*, but he foon repented his having been 
 fo eafy ; and the Condition of his fleeced Bi- 
 fhoprick beginning to difpleafe him, he took a 
 Reiolution to return into Germany . Bertius is 
 miftaken, when he writes in his Catalogue of 
 the Bifhops of Utrecht , that this Reflgnation was 
 made by Bifhop William , Cardinal d'Enkenvoert , 
 Succeffor to the fame Henry , and the fixteenth 
 Bifhop. 
 
 The Church that is dedicated to St Mary , of 
 which I have fpoken (and in which the Eng- 
 Itfh are fettled at Utrecht ) was built, accor- 
 ding to fome, by the Emperor Frederick I, called 
 Barharoffa ; the Pope having impofed this Pe- 
 nance on him for having facked Milan. But the 
 general Opinion attributes the Foundation of 
 this very Church to Bifhop Conrad of Suabia , 
 the twenty -fecond Bifhop of Utrecht , who was 
 affaflinated towards the Year 1092, about fixty 
 Years before Frederick was chofen Emperor* All 
 Hiflorians confirm what I have formerly ob- 
 ferved upon the Article of Utrecht concerning 
 
6 4 
 
 Utrecht. A New Vbyage Vol. I. 
 
 the Oxen’s Hides, upon which one Part of this E- 
 difice is founded : And the greateft Part of them 
 relate alfo the two Latin Verfes of the Canon 
 Scorelius, that may be feen upon a Pillar ; Accipe 
 Pofteritasy &c. They fay that a certain Mafon, 
 named Pleberus , engaged upon his Life that 
 he would find out a certain Method to remedy 
 the Inconveniency of a Gulph which they ac- 
 cidentally found in one of the Places where 
 the Church was to be founded, for a good Sum 
 of Money which was promifed him ; and that the 
 Bifhop being unwilling to give him fo much, he 
 bethought himfelf how to fuborn this Man’s Son, 
 and to get the Secret out of him : So that they 
 made Ufe of thefe Hides of Oxen, without any 
 • farther Application to the faid Pleberus . But this 
 Fellow being enraged at fuch Ufage, revenged 
 himfelf by killing the Bifhop with a Knife, in 
 his own Bed. ( 8 . ante Kal. Mali , An. 1099 . ) That 
 poor Bifhop is interred in the fame Church. 
 
 Mobilis JEfonidey verndque incerticr Aurdy 
 
 Cur tua Polliciti ponder e verba carent ? Ovid. 
 
 Besi d es the Smock of our Ladyy that Indufium 
 mconfutile of fine Muflin which has been already 
 mentioned, (and of which the like I have feen 
 at Argent euil near Paris) they keep in this Church 
 feveral Relicks ; amongft which, Pietro Fellori 
 formerly boafted very much of a little Bottle of 
 rock Cryftal, about the Bignefs of a Pigeon’s 
 Egg, in which they carefully kept fmall Particles 
 of the IVaters of St Urfula , and of all the Eleven 
 thouf and Virgins that accompanied her. Certainly 
 this Relick was a great Curiofity ; it being 
 very difficult to imagine how it could be made to 
 have gathered 1 1 000 Particles of all thole precious 
 Liquors. But he that (hews the Rarities of this 
 
 Church 
 
6 5 
 
 I • 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Utrecht. 
 
 Church at Utrecht affirms with Sincerity, that he 
 has never heard a Word fpoken of this. Vial, or 
 what was contained in it. Are the Gens Papicola, 
 faid he to us, become fio ridiculous about the Bufinefs 
 of Relicks , that the Devotees among ft them ( who 
 are always in Search after new Pilgrims with offering 
 new curious Objeffs to their Wijhes ) find themfelves in 
 Power , as well as Right, to invent Relicks of all 
 Sorts. It was not an ill Thought to this Man ; 
 but it may alfo happen that P. Fellori , who was 
 a Sicilian Pried, did not defign to fpeak of U- 
 trecht , which he knew very little of, when he 
 faid that this Relick was kept in a German City- 
 named Antonina, JSella Chiefa di Santa Maria : For 
 this Expreffion is not clear enough, and does 
 not neceflarily mean the City of Utrecht. The 
 fame Sexton told us he thought he could find 
 too fome fmall Pieces which were formerly faid 
 to be of the holy Handkerchief ; of the Spunge , 
 of the Crofs, and of the ficourging Poft. He fhew- 
 ed us two littie brazen Idols*, three pretended U~ 
 nicorns Horns , and leveral ancient Church Books 
 very well preferved and bound, both in Print 
 and Manufcripts. 
 
 They never Fail at Utrecht , to ffiew Strangers 
 the Houle of Pope AdrianVl, Son of one named 
 I Florent Boyen, a Brewer in that City ; and I think, 
 the bed Man that ever bore the Name of Pope, 
 under the Idea that we have had of that Name 
 thefe ten lad Centuries •, for it was formerly a 
 Term that all Bifhops gave one another *, as alfo 
 they gave themfelves the Title of Beatitude and 
 | . Holinefs . 
 
 Th is excellentMan didinguifhed himfelf from 
 his Youth, by his Merit and Learning ; and he 
 afeended the papal Throne, by all Sorts of De- 
 grees of Honour *, not only without having 
 ! earned! y fought after them, but with fome 
 
 Vot.I. F * Reluc- 
 
66 Utrecht. A New Voyage Vol.L 
 
 *— Declara- * Reludancy. We ought to fuppofe, confider- 
 
 ^urecufTnttm t ^ ie Candour of ^ ls Charader, that his Sen- 
 “adFmificT titnents concerning the principal controverted 
 tum venijfe ; Tenets, were pretty near the fame with thofe 
 & vitam pri- that are commonly received by the Romijh Sed ; 
 V rf an l A m f r lto h for, confidering the Principles of blind Submif- 
 riorm:Sed~ ^ lon 5 which are eftablifhed amonglf thofe Chri- 
 metu Numinis ftians, the ftrangeft Dodrines, not to fay the 
 Divini&pras- mod abfurd, mud be received by their Men of 
 
 ftliZZno- Wif > as wel1 as by others : The Uoftor and the 
 tum, non po- Collier muft equally believe the Council, blow- 
 tuiffe cur am ever, though Adrian oppofed Luther, feveral Bi- 
 
 hanc & onus g 0ts 0 f that Catholick Religion believed they had 
 a fe emum f oun( j out t h at h e favoured him: An Affair 
 
 Solo defiderio into which I mail not enter here, but how- 
 confulendi in ever, it is certain that this good Prelate highly 
 medium, & -j- complained of the very great Diforders, and 
 
 Zfdi/aVtem. C1 7 in g Abufes that were crept, faid he, in great 
 Sleidan. L. iv! Number into the Court of Rome , and every 
 de Star. Rel. where throughout’ it’s vad Empire. He freely 
 Sc Reip. owned that Popes might err as well as other 
 Men ; and that feveral of them had judly de- 
 dffimuUn- fo rve 4 the Name of Hereticks ; which was the 
 dum, autfilen- Occafion that he himfelf was treated as one, by 
 tio prat ere un- 
 ci um ejfie, aiebat ille, Deum videlicet , Vindicem omnis Iniquitatis, affligere ad 
 bunc modum Ecclefiam fiuam, propter Populi , maxime verb propter eorum 
 peccata qui PRcESUNT ECCLES11S ; cum Scriptura dicat A S ACERDO- 
 TIBUS INIQUIT AT EM POPULI DJMANARE. Nam , certb, piurimis 
 nunc Annis graviter multifique modis peccatum ejfie Roma ; & inde, a PONT1- 
 FICIO CULM1NE, malum hoc , atq\ LUEM ad Inferiores OMNES Ecclefit - 
 arum Prafettos defiuxijfie. NE MIN EM ejfie qui fuum faciat Munus ; aber- 
 rate omnes , & ne unum quidem ex omni numero vacare culpa — Quod cum ita 
 fit , daturum fie operam , ut Refipublica Romana , qua t antis fiorfian malis occa- 
 Jionem dedit , omnium prima Jevere corrigatur, ut qua C AU SAM DAMN I 
 did it, Medicina prabeat & Salutis initiam — Se liber aliter fiateri multa per- 
 per am ac viticfie Roma fieri , cum maximo reliquarum Gentium ac Provinciarum 
 incommode , NEC ABSQUE DETR 1 MENLO REL1G10NIS . (Sleid. De Sta- 
 tu Rel. & Reip. L. 4 )—Summos Pontifices pojfie err are, in IIS £>U/E TAN - 
 
 GUNT FI DEM.— In hac Sede multa ABOMINANDA fiuijfie ; Abufius in 
 
 Spiritualibus — & omnia in perverfium mutata , — . (V. Launoyum Doit. Sor- 
 born. in Epiltolis.) 
 
 feveral 
 
Parti, to. ITALY. Utrecht. 67 
 
 feveral Writers. The Abomination of the San- 
 dhiary, that is to fay, the horrible and univer- 
 fal Corruption of thofe who are called Clergy- 
 men, from the loweft Prieft to the High Pontiff , 
 was what he chiefly lamented ; and this was the 
 Evil, to which he propofed to apply a Remedy, 
 
 • as foon as poflibly he could ; but they did not 
 give him Leifure to do it. The State of Af- 
 fairs at Rome has been fuch, for thefe twelve or 
 thirteen Centuries efpecially, that we muft not 
 expedt any Reformation by the Means of the 
 Popes : For thefe Men muft necelfarily perifh, 
 by the Sword, or by Poifon, if they do not 
 pretty near tread in their Anceftor’s Steps. 
 
 GILBERT LAPPIUS in his Appendix , or his 
 . Annotations upon Beka , produces the Letter of a 
 Traveller named William de Locbortt , who was at 
 Rome when Adrian died : He fpeaks very advan- 
 tagioufly of this Pope ; whofe Manners, fays he, 
 were holy, and the Endowments of his Mind 
 admirable. And he adds, in relation to his out- 
 ward Form and Mien, that he was a tall Man, 
 of a fine Shape •, of a fair Complexion ; a happy 
 Phyfiognomy, and all his Airs grave and mo- 
 deft. His Obfequies were performed on the 2 2d 
 of September 1523., fix or feven Days after his 
 Death : And his Body was interred in St Andrew* s 
 Chapel in the German Church, with thefe Words 
 upon his Monument : 
 
 H I C 
 
 Nihil fibi infelicius An vita duxit 3 
 Quam 
 
 Quod Imperaret . 
 
 ji P. BERTIUS relates this Infcription a little dif- 
 : ferent : Hadrianus Sextus Me fitus eft , qui nihil fibi 
 I infelicius quam quod Imperaret duxit . Cardinal d’En- 
 F 2 kenvoert * 
 
68 
 
 Utrecht, A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 kenvoert , who was his Friend, and owed his Car- 
 dinalfhip to him, compofed this other Epitaph, 
 which I add here fo much the more willingly, 
 becaufe you fhall find in it fome hiftorical Parti- 
 cularities : 
 
 HADRIANO SEXTO PONTIFICI MAXIMO , 
 Ex T rajePlo infigni Inferioris Germamce Urbe ; qui 9 
 dum Rerum Hiimanarum maxime Averfaretur fplen - 
 dorem , ultro a Proceribus , ob incomparabilem Sacra - 
 rum Difciplinarum fcientiam , ac prope Divinam can - 
 didiffmi Animi Moderationem , Carolo Shinto Ccefari 
 Augufto Pr receptor, Ecclefus Dertufienfis Antiftes , yiz- 
 m Senatus Patribus Collega , Hifpaniarum Regius 
 Prcefe * ; Reipuhlicce Chrifliance Dhinitus Poniifex ab- 
 fens adjcitusjan . 9. /f/z. 1522. Fz#z 7 Anno s 6 ^, 
 Menfes 6, Diesi%. DeceJJit xviii Kal. OPtob. An, a - 
 partu Virginis 1523, Pontificates fiui An . fecundo. 
 Gulielmus Enckenvoert , lllius benignitate , £5? 
 
 Tz 7 zz/, fan PI or um Joannis & Pauli , Prejbyter 
 Cardinalis Dertufienfis , faciendum curavit . 
 
 WILLIAM. LOCRORST is pretty pofitive as 
 to the poifoning this poor Pope, in his Letter to 
 the Dean and Chapter of Utrecht , dated the fame 
 Day of his Funeral ; where he remarks in that 
 fame Letter, that the following Verfes were pub- 
 iickly fet up in Rome* 
 
 Czta Aftfrr Adrianu 
 
 Hinc mors tam cita , Mores & Tempora Nofir a , 
 
 Prava nimis , Talem meruere Virum ! 
 
 0 Mores ! O Tempora ! 
 
 One may eafily fee whothofe are whom thefe 
 Verfes accufe ; but the People who endeavoured 
 to hide the Shame of thefe Poifoners, threw the 
 Sufpicion upon certain Shop-keepers, whofe Bu- 
 fmefs was fpoiled by the Ordinances of that Pope, 
 againft Luxury in Habits. 
 
 On£ 
 
6 9 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Utrecht. 
 
 One may remark as a Thing lingular, that 
 Adrian would not. change his Name upon his 
 Advancement to the Papacy, notwithftanding 
 the Cuftom conftantly followed from the Middle 
 of the ninth Century : Sergius the Second hav- 
 ing taken that Name inflead of that he had, to- 
 wards the Year 8 45. 
 
 ANNA MARIA SCHURMAN, is another fa- 
 mous Perfon of the City of Utrecht . Her Name 
 is a fufficient Elogy : Only it is good to obferve, 
 that the Learning of Kings and Women , is generally 
 a little too much extolled by the Flatterers and Adorers 
 of thefe two Sorts of Perfons. She read feven or 
 eight Languages * and fhe did inform herfelf 
 with great Care, of the State of the Sciences, of 
 which fhe difcourfed hiftorically, after a pretty 
 pertinent Manner. She had alfo fome Knowledge 
 in the fine Arts *, and even underftood a little of 
 Painting. I have feen a Print taken from an 
 Original in Water- colours, which was, fay they, 
 done by her own Hand, as well as it reprefented 
 her Face •, and under which fhe had written thefe 
 two Latin Verfes of her own making ; 
 
 Cernitis hie pitta noftros in Imagine Vultus : 
 
 Si negat Ars for mam , Gratia vejlra dabit. 
 
 SIFFRIDUS PETRUS , one of the Comment 
 tators of the Annals of Utrecht fo often already 
 mentioned, relates a Fa6l that was wondered at 
 in this City, in the Year 1378. He fays, that a 
 Male Child, of forty Days old, pronounced 
 certain Words, by an extraordinary marvellous 
 Operation. I don’t remember whether he ob- 
 ferves what was the proper and particular Ufe of 
 that Prodigy *, nor if any remarkable Circum- 
 flances accompanied it. But however, this Hiitory 
 will make me touch again upon the Article of the 
 F 3 Peace 
 
jyo Utrecht. A Ne%v Voyage Vol. L 
 
 Peace of Utrecht , in relating here the Words of 
 one of our famous Preachers, concerning this 
 Peace fo nniverfally defired. Happy ^ faid he, 
 and an hundred Times happy , ye Minifters , who are 
 fent from all the Courts of Europe to treat of Peace., 
 if feme heavenly Embafjador (like this extraordinary 
 Child ) came to prefide in your AJfemblies , and conduit, 
 to their End your laudable Hefignsl What Intrigues , 
 what Cares , what vain Labours would be fpared to 
 you , if your Conferences were fo happily directed, by 
 a Moderator of this Character ! &c. 
 
 After what Manner foever the Efforts and 
 Cares of all thefe Minifters of Peace do fucceed, 
 to whom thou open'd: thyArms, O UTRECHT! 
 Peace be to Thee, and all Profperityl 
 
 Pax Tibi ! & Pax Adjuv antibus Tel 
 i Chron. xii. 18. 
 
 Sit Pax in Propugnaculis tuis , 
 
 Et Tranquillitas in Palatiis tuis» 
 
 PI. exxii. 7. 
 
 But remember what faith a Poet ; 
 
 Quis fuit horrendos primus qui protulit Enfes? 
 
 Quam ferus, & vere ferreus ille fuit! 
 
 O rigidum Pe&us ! Sed vos attendite, Cives ! 
 
 Cum Belli portas claudere fert Animus: 
 
 Libert as melior c autis quee jungitur Armis , 
 
 Quam quod fraude teg ft Pax fimulata Jugum- 
 Ergo, cum placitum eft optatae Foedera Pads 
 Pangere, Sollertes, Bella parate fimul! 
 
 PAX QUJERITUR BELLO . 
 
 Two Hours from Utrecht , we paffed thro* the 
 fine Avenues of Zeift, in Sight of the Caftle on 
 the Right-hand. It is a very fair Building, com- 
 
 paffed 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Zeist, Rhenen. 71 
 
 pa fled with large Ditches full of running Wa- 
 f ter, and adorned with Woods, Gardens, Statues, 
 
 Fountains, and all other Embellifhments you can z 
 defire. This Houfe belongs to one of the great- 
 . eft Lords in the Country, who built it fame 
 Years ago, and hath the Repute of doing Things 
 magnificently. 
 
 From thence we went to dine at Rhenen , a RHENEN, 
 Country Town or Borough, pleafantly enough 
 fituated upon the Rhine •, John AJkelius, the xlviii 
 Bifhop of Utrecht , inclofed it with ftrong Walls, 
 towards the Year 1350 : which was formerly to 
 be feen expreft in thefe Verfes upon one of the 
 Gates ; 
 
 Providus includit Rhenenfem Mcenibus Urbem 
 AJkelius Prceful: Turres adjungit & alt as ; 
 
 Scilicet ut neqneant Cives turhare molefti 
 Prcedones, innoxia Pax dum divite Cornu 
 Fundit Opes: Nec eos rabidus pert err eat Hoftis , 
 
 Dum luculenta tonant Mavortis Bella: nefande 
 Dum bacchatur atrox, & barbara Jcevit Erinnys. 
 
 Prceful, Honoris apex ! & quo nec juftior alter , 
 
 Nec Piet ate fuit major ! Tibi folvere Grates 
 Pro Meritis non fujfcimus. 
 
 The Antiquaries of that Country, pretend 
 ! ! that their Rhenen is the Grynnes mentioned by 
 S Tacitus but this Suppofition appears to me to 
 be grounded upon nothing but fome Affinity in 
 the Words. And even, I do not fee how one 
 I can be certain that this Place, (where we do not 
 I meet with the leaft Mark of any Roman Antiqui- 
 tyj can be near the Place where the antient Gryn- 
 nes flood. The Church is pretty fair, and espe- 
 cially the Steeple : One is at firft inclined to 
 believe that fo fine a Tower or Pyramid muft 
 have been built for a better Town than this is. 
 
 F 4 GERARD 
 
72 
 
 Rhen e n, A New Voyage Vol. L 
 GERARD LTSTRIUS has publifhed a fhort 
 
 Description in Vcrfe of the Neighbourhood of 
 Utrecht ; and I fhall here infert fome of what he 
 
 fays of Rhenen. 
 
 * This Poet 
 never law the 
 dtps, who 
 takes a Hil- 
 lock for a high 
 Mountain. 
 
 f At Paris. 
 
 Oppidulum Rhenenfe pium , fic prczftat Amceno 
 Ccelo , fiicque fitu fie tollit ad ARthera hlando , &c. 
 Quippe quod in celj'o conftruttum vertice Collis 
 Frondofi , Rhenum fubter fe cernit euntem , 
 Voriicibus tremulis jlrepitantem murmure rauco . 
 
 Si libel , hie polls es Cervos agitare feroces ; 
 Fulmineum vel Aprum cornu transfigere diro : 
 Auribus excipies vocum diferimina mille 
 Avia quas Arbufta cient , Volucrefque canorce. - 
 Capripedes c ernes Satyr os, Dryadefque fugaces. 
 Dim cnrfiu certant agili preevertere Panes , 
 Agreftes Nymphas , late Nemus omne movere . 
 Oppidulum quamvis iftud non fit populofum, 
 
 Att amen* exigui Gives, ut * Montibus altis 
 Nutriti, funt Mont am, genus acre virorum . 
 Gprmanis nullis vivunt Virtute fecundi 
 Bellied ; & Ingenii non cedunt Dotibus ullis : 
 
 Sic Opibus quod deeft fiupplet Virtu fque Genufque. 
 
 
 
 on 
 
 The little Hill mentioned by this Author up- 
 or next which Rhenen is built, is called by 
 Bekelius, Mons Hay monis, Fhe Mountain, or Hill of 
 Huymon, formerly a pretty Prince of that Coun- 
 try, and Father of the four famous Champions, fo 
 well known by the Name of Ffipatre-Fils- Aymon* 
 whole f Pont-Neuf s Authors relate the Hiftory, 
 wit la Several others of the fame Sort, 
 
 They made us alfo take Notice at Rhenen, of 
 the fine Houfe, that |] Frederick V, EleElor Pa* 
 
 latine , and King of Bohemia, caufed 
 
 to be built 
 there 
 
 j| THIS Prince was defied King of Bohemia , and crowned 
 at Prague, the fourth of November 1619. But the Emperor 
 Ferdinand the Second his Rival, attacked him with a fupe- 
 
 rior 
 
73 
 
 Parti. to ITALY. Arnheim. 
 
 there, when he retired thither after his Difgraces, 
 in the Year 1622. The Choice that that Prince 
 made of that Place, ought to make us think 
 that the Situation of it is pleafant, and the Air 
 good. 
 
 Approaching the Village called Rhinccm , 
 three Hours on this Side of Rhenen , there is a Boun- 
 dary Stone, which feparates the LordJJoip of U- 
 trecht , from the Duchy of Guelderland. The Fields 
 thereabout, are almoft wholly planted with To- 
 bacco ; and the Stalks by which thefe Plants are 
 fupported, give them an Air, at a Diflance, of 
 our Vineyards round about Paris . I fay in the 
 Neighbourhood of Paris ; for the Way of plant- 
 ing and cultivating the Vine is very different, 
 in the different Provinces of France . 
 
 ARNHEIM is tolerably fortified. During the ARNHEIM. 
 little Time we flayed there, we could not Arena aim* 
 find any particular Thing that deferved to be 
 taken Notice of. Their Beds, at leafl in the Inns, 
 are like our Cupboards ; which you go up a 
 Ladder to, and after plunge your felf into a 
 deep Feather-bed, and have another of the fame 
 Sort for your Covering. 9 Tis their ordinary 
 Way in all thefe Countries, even in Holland . 
 
 Jf they wonder that I take Notice of it, as being 
 
 fingular 
 
 rior Army, and forced him to retire: After which, the Em- 
 pire animated by their Head, difpoflefted him of his own Do- 
 minions; in which, Charles Lewis Son to Frederick, was but 
 fettled in Part by the Peace of Munjler. But th- Upper Pala- 
 tinate that was then transferred to the Ploufe of Bavaria, is late- 
 ly returned to the Palatine Family by a new Cataftrope. The ; 
 
 SereniJJime Princefs Sophia, Elect rels Dowager of Brunfwick % 
 and Hanover i and, as far as I know, defigned Heirefs of the 
 Crown of Great Britain, was born at Rhenen An. 1630, eight 
 Years after her Father’s Retirement thither. The Queen, her 
 Mother, was Sifter to Charles the Firft, King of England ; 
 who, as it is known enough, was not a very fortunate Prince 
 neither. Frederick died at May e nee in the Year 1632, as he 
 was endeavouring to recover his Dominions. 
 
74 
 
 D OU S- 
 BURG. 
 Drufe-Bur - 
 gum. 
 
 YSEL- 
 OO R T. 
 
 WE S E L, 
 formerly a 
 Hans-Town 
 * It has eight 
 Baftions, live 
 of which are 
 lined. 
 
 j The Citadel 
 has five Ba- 
 ftions. It will 
 be a handfome 
 Fort, and as 
 itrong as it 
 can be made 
 in fuch Tandy 
 Ground. The 
 Jnfide of the 
 Rampart is 
 lined, to make 
 it more firm, 
 and keep it 
 from falling. 
 
 DUISBURG 
 
 formerly a 
 Hans-3 own. 
 
 Dousburg, Yseloort, Wesel. Vol.L 
 
 fmgular, (as Monfieur U Abbe Regnier has done 
 in his pretty Verfes) they may, in Revenge, 
 make Remarks upon ours. 
 
 Two large Hours and an half from Arnhem 
 we pa fifed the YJfe 'k, the Fojfa Drufiana , menti- 
 oned by Facitus. This ancient Canal, at prefent, 
 is divided into three Branches, very near each 
 other in this Place ; and pafs through Dousbourg , 
 which is a little Town on that Water, in the 
 County of Zutphen. We were forced to dine 
 upon Bifket and Milk in a paltry Village, and 
 in the Evening were treated much after the fame 
 Manner at Ifeloort , which is a poor little deman- 
 ded Place, at the Entrance into the Country of 
 Cleves. 
 
 There is fparce any thing but Woods and 
 fandy Grounds between Yfeloort and Wefel ; and 
 there is but little remarkable in the laft of thefe 
 Places. ’Tis indifferently fortified *, and they 
 are at prefent at Work on a *f Citadel, between 
 the City and the Fort of Lippe % on the Bank of 
 the Rhine . The Elector of Brandenburg allows 
 his Roman Catholick Subjedts in the Duchy of 
 Cleves , the publick Exercife of their Religion, 
 by a Treaty which he concluded with the Duke 
 of Newburgh now Ele&or Palatine , on Condition 
 that the Duke fhould grant the fame Liberty to 
 the Proteftants in his Duchies of Juliers and Berg. 
 There are four Churches at Wefel: The Proteftants , 
 who are called Calvinifts , have the two principal ; 
 the Lutherans the Third, and thofe of the Roman 
 Communion the other. The Jews have a little 
 Synagogue. 
 
 Half an Hour from Wefel we paft the Lippe> 
 which, not far from thence, falls into the Rhine ; 
 and the fame Day we arrived pretty early at 'Duis- 
 burg. This City is about the Bignefs of Wefel ^ 
 without Fortifications, or any thing confiderable 
 
 but 
 
Parti. Duisburg, Keyserswaert* 
 
 but it’s Univcrfity. The principal Church is fair 
 enough, and belongs to the P rot eft ants- The 
 Scholars walk about the Streets in their morning 
 Gowns, like thofe of Leyden. I was informed, that 
 the Roman Caiholicks might carry the Hoft about 
 here, according to the full Liberty which is grant- 
 ed them throughout all this Country ; tho’ they 
 chufe rather to refrain from doing it, left any 
 Accidents ftiould happen, which might difturb 
 the friendly Correfpondence which they entertain 
 with their proteftant Neighbours. 
 
 A good half League from Duisburg, we en- 
 tered into the Country of Berg. And two Hours 
 after we palled through Keyferfwaert ; which is a 
 very little Place upon the Rhine . It belongs to 
 the Eledtor of Cologne , in whofe PolTeffion, as 
 we were informed, it remains as a Pledge, and 
 by whom it was fortified. 
 
 W e have now been a few Hours at Dujfeldorp , 
 where we have already walked about for lome 
 Time, to difcover fomething worth our Obferva- 
 tion. This City is bigger by half than Duisburg, 
 and every Way better ; there are no Suburbs ad- 
 joining to it, no more than to Keyferfwaert. The 
 Fortifications feem to be kept in good Order ; 
 and the electoral Prince, the Duke of Newburgh 
 makes his Refidence here. This is all I can now 
 fay. 
 
 I am 9 
 
 75 
 
 KEYSER- 
 
 SWAERT- 
 
 DUSSEL- 
 DORP. The 
 Refidence of 
 the Eleftor 
 Palatine fince 
 the French 
 ruined the Ca- 
 ttle of Heidel- 
 berg. Here is 
 a Citadel with 
 four Baftions. 
 Gal. Gualdi . 
 
 DuJJeldorPt 
 let . 23, 1687. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Tours, & c. 
 
 LETTER 
 
7 6 
 
 Coioon. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 COIOGN, 
 an Arch- 
 biftioprick.U- 
 niverlity, im- 
 perial City, 
 and Han-- 
 Town. Of bo 
 the Great, 
 made it an 
 imperial City, 
 and gave it 
 the Privileges 
 it now enjoys. 
 
 There are 24 
 Gates, 1 3 to 
 the Laxid, and 
 1 1 on the 
 
 Rhine* 
 
 T H I S Letter will give von an Account of 
 part of what I could obferve at Cologn in 
 three Days Time. Since we only wandered in 
 our W alks abroad, you muff expebt no regular 
 Order in the Relations which I fend you. 1 am 
 glad of this Occafion to give you this Adverufe- 
 ment by the By, that you may not expedt to 
 have Things in another Method than that in 
 which Chance offered them to us. 
 
 COLOGN may be feen at a confiderable Dif- 
 tance, and all in plain Vbw in a level Country. 
 The City is very large, furrounded with a Wall 
 and dry Ditch, with Towers, and fome Baftions 
 which defend it Gates. Luther fays in his Collo- 
 quia Menfalia, that 5 tis the ^reateft City in. Ger- 
 many, c. 64. There is rarely fo great a Number 
 of Steeples to be any where feen at once, as ap- 
 peared to us on the Side we approached the Town. 
 
 It is an imperial City, governed by ids Burgo- 
 mafters: But the Archbifnops Authority is very 
 confiderable. This Prince takes Cognizance of 
 all Affairs both civil and criminal, and can par- 
 don thofe whom the Magistrates condemn. And 
 the Oath which the City takes, feems to be a kind 
 of Homage : It is in thefe Terms , 
 
 WE the free Burgejfes of Cologn, do this Day, 
 
 for new , and fer ever promife to — 
 
 Archbifjop of Cologn, to be faithful and favourable 
 to him, AS LONG AS HE SHALL MAIN- 
 TAIN, IN OUR RIGHTS , OUR HONOUR AND 
 
 OUR 
 
■ 
 
 ' * 
 
 I Part I. ft I T A L Y. Cologn. 77 
 
 > OUR ANCIENT PRIVILEGES, Us, our Wives, There is great 
 our Children , and our City of Cologn. So God and 
 bis Saints help US. andtheEleftor. 
 
 They will not 
 
 fuffer him to ftav long there with a great Train. Many Archbilhops have 
 attempted to invade their Liberties. Under the Reign of the Emp. Adolphus 
 of Naffito, the Inhabitants went in Arms to meet their Archbifhop, as far as 
 Worin~hen , in ftrab nt, where having placed the Keys of their City between 
 him and them, in the Field of Battle, to be the Price of the Victory, they ob- 
 tained that vvith their Keys and Franchifes. They have ever fince celebrated 
 a Feitival on this Account, with a great deal of Ceremony, Hei/s. 
 
 If you pleafe, you may have the Anfwer 
 which the Bifhop returns them : It was a Burgo- 
 mafter who gave me them both. 
 
 JVE by the Grace of God , Archbifhop of 
 
 the Holy Church of Cologn, Eleftor , and Arch- 
 Chancellor of the Empire through Italy ; To the End, 
 that there may be an amicable Confederacy , entire Con- 
 fidence , and fincere and inviolable Peace between Us 
 and our dear Burgejfes of the City of Cologn, do 
 make known to all by thefe Prefents , that we promife 
 a?id declare fincerely , and without Fraud , that we 
 confirm all their Rights and Franchifes , written or 
 not written , old or new , within or without the City 
 of Cologn, which have been granted to it by the Popes , 
 
 Emperors, Fangs, and Archbifhops of Cologn •, and 
 that we will never do any thing to violate the fame: 
 
 In Teftimony whereof , &c. 
 
 The Chapter of Cologn is compofed of fixty 
 Canons, who ought all to be Princes or Counts. 
 
 The Four and twenty Eldeft are the Capitu- 
 laries. 
 
 The Electors of Cologn had formerly the Privi- 
 lege to crown the Emperor according to the 
 Conftitution of the Golden Bull ; but thefe Electors 
 not having been Priefts for a long Time, thofe 
 of Mentz performed that Office in their Stead., 
 
 and 
 
78 Colog n. A New Voyage Vol.U 
 
 * They pre- an< ^ ^ ave * ever ^ ince remained in Pofieftion of 
 tend alfo to that Honour, 
 this Right, in 
 
 Quality of the firft Archbifhops. Leopold , the Emperor now reigning was 
 crowned by the Archbifhop of Cologru 
 
 I am informed, that there are many Protef- 
 tants here, who are known to be fuch: They go 
 into the Lands of the Duke of Newburg , to per- 
 f Thofe who f° rm the Exercife of their Religion. They are 
 prefented the ft ill called by their old Name of f Gueux , or 
 Petition were Beggars , which, you know, was given at Brufiels 
 like^ with a t0 t ^ ie Authors of the Corner omife> by the Count 
 thick and ^ Barlemont* 
 courfe Sort of 
 
 Cloth. They never took it ill to be called Gueux; and to diftinguifh themfelves 
 by thatName, they hung aMedal at theirNecks,upon which, on one Side, was the 
 Effigies of theKing, (PbilipIL) andon the other, twoHands joined together hold- 
 ing two Budgets, with divers littlePorringers, and round about was written * faith- 
 ful to tbeKing even to Beggary . Gab. Chapuy’j Hift. of the Wars of Flanders. 
 
 The T own-houfe is a great Gothick Building. 
 
 McrTptbnsa- We faw there > amon g otherThings, Chambers full 
 bout the Plat- of Bows, Arrows, Grofs-Bows, Quivers, Bucklers, 
 form before it. and other ancient Arms. I mealured one of thofe 
 The firft was Crofs-Bows which had need of a Frame, or Car- 
 
 commemorate ria S e *’ n the ^ ow was of Whale-bone, and is 
 theKindnefsof twelve Foot long, eight Inches broad, and four 
 C*far to the Inches thick. It is very pleaiant to behold Co- 
 Vbii, by re- anc [ t h e delicate Country about it, from the 
 
 SoTheSum- top Of the Tower of this Houfe. 
 ber of the Al- 
 lies ; and his building two wooden Bridges over the Rhine. The fecond men- 
 tions the Colony which Auguftus fert hither. The Third was made upon 
 Occafion of the building of the City, by Agrtppa. The fourth relates to 
 the Stone-Bridge, which Conjiantine built here. The fifth i? in Honour of 
 Jufinian , who granted them fome Laws ; and the Sixth in Honour of the 
 Emperor Maximilian I. Mcntconys . 
 
 The little Part of the City which is on the 
 other Side of the Rhine , is properly under the 
 Dominion of the Eledlcr, and is the Quarter al- 
 lotted to the Jews: The' 
 
Parti. ftITALY. Cologn. 79 
 
 I The * Cathedral Church remains in a very * St Peter's. 
 imperfed: State; it is Pity fo fine a Beginning Q Tls i aid thls 
 
 r ,jr ,v ? Structure was 
 
 : was never compleated. In the I ear 1162, the ere aed in the 
 
 [ three pretended Kings who came to adore our Space of four 
 
 1 Saviour, were brought from Milan into this X cars > and fi- 
 
 Church ; where Fame attributes many Miracles Anno 
 
 I to them. They fell for a penny a Dozen little 5 
 
 I Billets or Notes, which have touched them, and When Frede- 
 communicate their Virtue. Luther fays, that m rick Barba- 
 K his Time there was in this Church a ftorie Statue ^uTtobt 
 I of a Dean, holding a Cat in one Hand, and a raze d. 
 
 I Rat in the other : This Dean was a Jew , and 
 that fhewed , fays Luther , that he loved the Chri- 
 ftians no otherwile than the Cats love the Rats; 
 which is eafy to be believed. Colloquia Men/ alia, 
 
 I Chap. 74. 
 
 An extraordinary Drought having caufed a 
 Famine in Hungary {l know not pofitively in what courfeof Peo- 
 tinhe it happened ) a great Number of the People pie who refort 
 of that Country, came to lupplicate the Afliftance from Parts 
 of the three Kings, after they had in vain in- ^ e C RXfon 1S 
 voked the Saints of their Country and Neigh- w hy t h e City 
 bourhood ; and they had no fooner mentioned has been confi- 
 their Requeft, but it rained in great Abundance. derabl y aug- 
 Since that Time, a certain Number of Hungarians Br<mn 
 come every feventh Year in Procefilon, to pay i n his excellent 
 Homage to their Benefadors ; and thefe People Book of Vulgar 
 are treated and waited upon by the' Magiftrates Errors, refutes 
 for fifteen Days, in a very fine Houfe, which of thole who i- 
 was built on Purpofe for them. magine, that 
 
 thefe pretend- 
 ed Monarchs were Kings of Cologn. But, for my Part, I mull confefs, I 
 never heard any Perfon maintain, or fo much as fpeak of that Opinion. 
 
 I observed a Hole, three or four foot wide v 
 in the Top of the vaulted Roof of the Church, 
 
 ! andalmoft direddy over the Chapel, where thefe 
 royal Relicks are kept. Thefe Words are writ- 
 ten round the Hole; 
 
 ANNO 
 
So 
 
 See To. IX. 
 Litter xxiii. 
 
 Mezeray re- 
 lates the Story, 
 as’ tis common- 
 ly told ; but is 
 &) far from af- 
 firming it to be 
 true, that he 
 looks upon it 
 as uncertain, 
 if not fabulous. 
 ’Tis alio con- 
 futed at length, 
 by the famous 
 Archbiihop 
 VJher . 
 
 Cologn. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 ANNO 1404. 30. OEl. Veritus de node flat in - 
 gens, grandem per tedum lapidempellit . 
 
 ON the thirtieth of October, in the Tear 1404, a 
 great Wind blew in the Night , and drove a great 
 Stone through the Roof. 
 
 THIS Stone lies on the Pavement near the Cha- 
 pel. Our Guide told us, they called it, The De- 
 vil’s Stone, becaufe it is believed, the Devil threw 
 it out of Malice to deftroy the Chapel. I ob- 
 served alfo in the fame Church, over one of the 
 Doors, thirty fix gilded Staves, about three foot 
 long each j and this Diftich written underneath : 
 
 Quot pender e vides Baculos , tot Epifcopus Atmos 
 Huic Agrippinas prdfuit Ec defies. 
 
 And in Effedf, the Eleftor is at prefent in the 
 thirty feventh Year of his Archbifhoprick. But 
 I could neither learn the Origin, nor the Utility 
 of this Cuftom, 
 
 We faw, by the Way, the fine Church of 
 the Jdhits, and from thence went to that of 
 St Urfula. You are doubtlefs acquainted with the 
 Legend of this Saint, and of her Eleven thou- 
 fand Virgins, who were maffacred with her by 
 the Huns at Cologn , in the Year 238. Thofe who 
 firft wrote the Story, fuppofed that there was 
 one Etherus , King of England , and Hufband of 
 Urfula\ and one Pope Cyriac , his Cotemporary, 
 Perfons of whom noNotice is taken in anyHiftory: 
 In the mean time, every one of the eleven thour 
 find Virgins, have done above Eleven thoufand 
 Miracles, and furnifhed a great Number of Re- 
 licks. The Body of Urfula lay for a long time 
 confounded among the reft •, but they fay it was 
 at laft diftinguifhed by a Pigeon, who, for fe- 
 veral Days, came regulary at a fet Hour to her 
 Tomb : And at prefent the Saint is laid near her 
 
 Hufband' 
 
I • 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. C o l o g . 
 
 Hufband Ether us. The Church is filled with die 
 Tombs of many of the Virgins, and there are 
 always a Multitude of old Women in it, repeat- 
 ing Pater-nojlers from Morning to Night. They 
 fay the Earth of this Church would not for- 
 merly endure any other dead Corps ; and to 
 prove this, they fhew the Tomb of a Daughter 
 of a certain Duke of Brabant , which, after they 
 had placed it there by Force, ftarted up and re- 
 mained in the Air ; fo that they were obliged to 
 fix it with Iron, as it ftill continues, two or three 
 Foot from the Ground, againft one of the Pil* 
 Jars of the Church. 
 
 They fhewed us, in a great Chapel, which 
 is at the Side of the Church, the Bones of the 
 Virgins, with which it is adorned and hung, ah 
 
 ( moft in the fame Manner as you fee the Swords 
 and Piftols ranged at Whitehall , in the Guard- 
 Chamber. Thefe Bones have no Ornaments* 
 except the Heads, which are honoured in a par- 
 ticular Manner ; for fome of them are put up in 
 filver Shrines, others in gilt Boxes ; there are 
 none which have not at leaft their Caps of 
 Cloth of Gold, or a Bonnet of Crimfon Vel- 
 vet, wrought with Pearls and Jewels. And this 
 is what, together with the pretended three 
 Kings, is the chief Object of the Devotion of 
 Cologn *, and from whence it takes the Name of 
 * Cologn the Holy * ’Tis alfo, for the fame Reafon* 
 that the Arms of the City are. Argent , eleven 
 Flames Gules , with a Chief of the Second , charged 
 with three Crowns Of. The Eleven Flames are in 
 Memorial of the Eleven thoufand Virgins, and 
 the three Crowns reprefent the three Kings* 
 Perhaps you have not been informed of the 
 Judgment, that one of the moft learned Jefuits 
 of the paft Age, has made of the Hiftory of the 
 Eleven thoufand Virgins; ’tis the famous fames 
 Voi. I, G Sirmond % 
 
8a 
 
 Cologn. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Strmond , ConfefTor to King Lewis XIII. The 
 learned Monfieur de Valois has publifhed it in the 
 following Terms : 
 
 THERE was , fays he, one St Urfula a Martyr , 
 according to the common Opinion , tho 9 we cannot tell 
 the Time when Jhe lived : But as for the Story of the 
 Eleven ihoufand Virgins , His a little too grofs to be 
 fuffered. Here is the Foundation , on which , according 
 to Father Sirmondb Conjecture * this Error is ground- 
 ed, Thofe that forged this fine Hiftory, having found 
 in feme written Martyrology , SS. URSULA ET UN - 
 DECIMILLA , Z 7 . Af. * Sandla Urfula & Undech 
 milla, Virgines Martyres, they imagined that Unde- 
 cimilla, which is a proper Name , with V and M ad- 
 joined to it , was an Abbreviation to exprefs y Undecim 
 Millia Virginum Martyrum : And thereupon they 
 made the Romance, which they now put upon the World \ 
 I cannot comprehend , how the Doctors of Sorbon, a- 
 mongft whom there are fo many learned Men , Jhould 
 be willing to have this Troop of Counter-band Saints , 
 for the- tutelar Patrons of their Church \ fince Hwas 
 in their Power to have c ho fen fo many others , of an 
 v.nquefiionable Stamp , See the Valefeana. 
 
 In the Church of the Maccabees there is a Cru- 
 cifix who wears a Peruke ^ which is a very 
 particular Dreffing for a Crucifix; But the moft 
 furprifmg and edifying Circumffance of which, 
 you muft be informed, is, that when the Hun- 
 garian Pilgrims come to Cologn , they do each 
 of them cut oft a Lock of Hair from this Pe- 
 ruke, and yet it never diminishes. The Car - 
 thu flans (if you will take their own Word for it) 
 have the Hem of Chrift* s Garment, which was 
 touched by the Woman that had the bloody 
 I Hue. When the Women of Cologn are troubled 
 with a Flux of Blood, they fend fome Wine 
 immediately to the Car thu fans, that they may 
 dip a Piece of the Relick in it j after which a 
 
 Draught 
 
 
Parti. VITALY. Cologn. 
 
 ; Draught of the fandlified Wine is elleemed an 
 [ infalJible Remedy. J. Reiskius. 
 
 I observed, at the Entrance into the Church 
 of the twelve A pottles, a Pidlure, which re- 
 prefents a fingular Event. The Wife of a Con- 
 I iul of Cologn , being buried in the Year 1571, 
 with a Ring of fome Price, the Sexton, the 
 Night following, opened the Tomb to Heal the 
 Ring •, I leave you to judge if he were not fright- 
 j ed when he felt his Hand grafped, and when the 
 good Lady took hold of him to get out of the 
 [ Sepulchre. However, he made a Shift to difen~ 
 I gage his Hand, and immediately ran away, with- 
 ! out afking any Queltions. The Perfon that was 
 : come to Life, unwrapped herfelf as well as fhe 
 > could, and went to knock at the Door of her 
 Houle. She called a Servant by his Name, and 
 in few Words told him the Sum of her Ad’ven- 
 I ture, that he might admit her without any Scru- 
 ple : But the Man thought her a Gholl, and in a 
 great Conllernation ran to tell the Thing to his 
 Mailer. The Mailer, as incredulous as the Man, 
 called him Fool, and faid he would as foon be- 
 lieve his Horles were in the Garret ; and in- 
 flantly a moll dreadful Noife was heard in the 
 Garret •, upon which the Man went up, and 
 found fix Coach-horfes there, with all the others 
 that were firft in the Stable. The Conful amazed 
 at fo many Prodigies, was not able to Ipeak ; 
 the Man was in an Extafy, or Swoon, in the Gar- 
 ret ; and the Living deceafed, quaking in her 
 ’ Shroud, was expedling to be let in. At lafl, 
 fhe Door was opened, and they chafed and ufed 
 her fo well, that fhe revived as if nothing had 
 palfed ; and the next Day they made the ne- 
 celfary Machines to let down the Horfes. And, 
 as a Confirmation of the Story, there is at this. 
 Day to be feen in the Garret, fome wooden 
 G 2 Horfes, 
 
*4 COLOGN. A New Voyage Voh I. 
 
 Horfes, which are covered with the Skins of 
 thefe Animals. They fhew alfo in the Church 
 of the Twelve Apoftles, a large linen Curtain 
 which this Woman fpun after her Return into 
 this World ; in which fhe lived feven Years af- 
 terwards. 
 
 W e may now obferve, this Story has been 
 fubjedl to the Fate of moft other Relations, of 
 extraordinary Accidents : 5 Tis the Humour of 
 the World, in Rich Cafes, inftead of being 
 contented with the Singularity of an uncommon 
 Event, to heighten every Circumftance, and em- 
 bellifh the real Wonder with new and fictitious 
 Prodigies. The very Oddnefs and Improbability 
 of the Story recommends it to the Belief of thofe 
 who are always very fond of what they cannot 
 comprehend; and others are fo accuftomed to a 
 blind Submiftion, that a confident AfTertion will 
 extort their AfTent to a downright Abfurdity. 
 On the other Hand, there are fome, who, 
 as foon as they find an incredible Circumftance 
 added to a Story, are fo afraid of being impofed 
 upon, that they reject the whole as a Fable. But 
 3 tis certainly the Duty of all Men, as ’tis the 
 Care of every candid and judicious Perfon to 
 endeavour, by a careful and impartial Enquiry 
 to diftinguifh Truth from Falftiood, and to 
 avoid the two oppofite Extremities of a heedlefs 
 Credulity and unreafonable Nicenels, For if 
 only fuch Truths were to be believed, as are 
 abfolutely free from the leaft Mixture of Fable, 
 we fhould hardly give Credit to any Thing that 
 is grounded on Tradition or ITiftory. And 
 therefore, though the End of this Story is evi- 
 dently fabulous, I fee no Reafon that fhould 
 oblige us to deny the Beginning of it *, fince ’tis 
 not only very probable, but fupported by fre- 
 quent 
 
Parti. to ITALY. Colog n. 
 
 »5 
 
 quent * Examples of the fame Nature : And even, * Since the 
 we may lay, I think, in favour of this, that ^ ri Th^ook 1 * 
 whereas among all the numerous Relations of fu- j ^ ave m ° e ° ' 
 pernatural Events that are publifhed, there are with the Hi- 
 very few that are well attefted or grounded upon ft° r 7 °f the 
 Matter of Fad; on the contrary, the Number ^ e J^ l g te \^ e 
 of thole who have been buried before they Memoirs 
 were really dead, is much greater, than that of of the famous 
 the Stories recorded in Hiftory, of fuch as have Surgeon Fabri, 
 been taken up alive out of their Graves. spires ^dmT 
 
 rabies of Si- 
 mon Goulart. The Name of this Woman was Reicbmutb Adolcb. She 
 lived a long Time after her Return to the World, and had three Sons, all of 
 
 them Clergymeip J obn Bujfenmaker has engraven the Picture that is to be 
 fcen in the Church of the Holy Apofiles , where this whole Hiltory isrepre- 
 lented. Neither Fabri , nor Goulart , make any Mention of the Horfes in the 
 Garret ; which is a Circumhance manifeftly fabulous enough. 
 
 PL/iVTrelates feveral Inftances of this Na- Aviola Vir 
 ture •, and among the Reft, that of Aviola , who Confularis m 
 awaked from his Lethargy, after his Body was laid q^onlarn * 
 on the funeral Pile in order to be burnt, accord- fubveniri non 
 ing to the Cuftom of that Time ; but was con- potuerat, prae- 
 fumed by the fame Fire that revived him, the va l ente . flam ~ 
 Violence of the Flame not permitting the Spec- crematus eft. 
 tators to aflift him. I do not at all queftion, but PH a. I . viu 
 you, as well as I, have met with a hundred fuch r. 25. 
 Relations in the Writings of ancient Authors. 
 
 But, without leaving Cologn , I fhall content my 
 felf with putting you in Mind of Archbifhop 
 Geron , who, if we may depend upon the Autho- 
 rity of Albertus Krantzius , was buried alive ; and 
 died before his Grave could be opened. And you 
 have doubtlefs read the Story of -f Scotus , the Sub- -\jobn Dusts or 
 til Do SI or , who, in this fame City, gnawed his Downs aScotch 
 Hands, and broke his Head in his Grave. 5 Tis 
 true, || one of the moft confiderabte Authors who N 0 Y.8*i3o8. 
 related this Accident, was pofitively contradidled || Bzavius . 
 by one George Herwart , who, it feems, was loath 
 G 3 to 
 
86 Colog n. A New Voyage Vol.L 
 
 to believe fo tragical a Story of a Perfon for whom 
 he had an extraordinary Veneration. Yet the 
 Matter of Fad is attefted not only by Bzovtus , 
 but alfo by Paulus Jovius , Latomus , Majoli, Vita- 
 lise Garzoni , and fo many others, that ’twould 
 be againft Reafon to oppofe the concurring Tef- 
 timonies of all thole Hifforians. 
 
 Tho’ you will perhaps think that this Digref- 
 fion is already too long, I cannot forbear adding 
 another Story, which agrees almoft in every Cir- 
 climftance with that of the Conful’s Wife *, and 
 which I can pofitively alTert to be true. Some 
 Time ago one Me w ache ^ a Goldfmith of PoiEliers r 
 buffered fome Gold-rings to be put in the Grave 
 with his Wife, becaufe fhe deffred at her Death, 
 that they might be buried with her. A poor 
 Man in the Neighbourhood hearing of what was 
 done, opened the Grave the next Night, with 
 a Defign to fceal the Rings ; but as he was en- 
 i deavouring to pull them' off, the Woman re- 
 vived, and complained that hehurted her. Thefe 
 Words ffruck fuch a Terror into the Thief, 
 that he ran away, leaving the Grave open *, 
 and the Woman being awaked out of her Apo- 
 pledick Fit, went home, and in a few Days re- 
 covered her former Health. She lived many 
 Years after, and bore feveral Children, fome 
 of whom are ffill alive, and follow their Father’s 
 Trade at Poiriers , in France . 
 
 T h e Story of Captain Francis de Civille , a Gen- 
 tleman of Normandy , who affirmed, that he was 
 dead, buried, and reftored to Life by the mira- 
 culous Providence of God, is fo rare, and fo re- 
 markable in every Refpect, that no inquifitive Per- 
 fon ought to be ignorant of it. Several Authors 
 Anno 1562. ^ vec * at that Time, took notice of this me- 
 
 morable Event, and ddcribed the principal 
 Paffages of it*, but the Accounts they .have left 
 
Part I. ITALY. Cologn, 
 
 8 7 
 
 ] us are very imperfeCt, and even in fome mate- 
 1 rial Circumftances. Thofe who were defirous to 
 i be particularly informed of the whole Tranfac- 
 I tion, did fee the Hiftory of it written by him- 
 ] felt, late in the Polfefiion of a * French Minifter * Mr De Sic- 
 I at London i whofe Wife was that Gentleman’s Grand- Seville, a 
 I daughter, and now printed/. 647, ofthisVolume. ^ entler ^ an 
 I have nothing further to tell you of that formcrly^Mi- 
 [ Place *, but that there are ftill fome -f* Families niftero {Tours. 
 I remaining, who pretend to be defcended from t Leiikirkin 
 | the Romans , and produce their Genealogies from anc * 7 udaes ' 
 
 I the firft Time this City was made a Colony of 
 I the Empire. Let us however add a Word more ; 
 
 I tor ’tis impoffible to leave Cologn without making 
 [ tome Reflection on the Fate of a great Queen 
 i ( Mary dc Me dicis) who, after fhe was banillied 
 and forlaken, as ’tis well known to every 
 Body, died here *, however much lefs unfortunate 
 in this Difgrace, than had been her Hufband, 
 
 Henry IV, who was (tabbed in his Capital City, 
 without any RefpeCt, for the Gold of his Coach. 
 
 I am. 
 
 Cologn , Off. 
 26, 1687. 
 
 S I R 
 
 Tours , &c. 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 H E Ways from Cologn to Mentz are fo bad 
 X at prefent, and travelling in Coaches, fuch 
 as they are here, fo unpleafant and uneafy, that 
 we chofe rather to embark on th z Rhine, notwith- 
 Handing the extream Slownefsof the PafTage. 
 
 G 4 
 
 We 
 
§8 Bonn, Andf.rnach, Coblentz. Vol. I. 
 
 B O NN. We went a Shore at Rontu which appeared to 
 Bonnenjiafco-** a htde dirty City. I could not learn, that 
 Ionia Julia- there was any thing in it to deferve our Stay 
 bona, built by there. The Fortifications are negledted, and the 
 DruJus.A nno p a ] ace 0 f the Electtor of Cologn , who refides 
 puTmunitton- there, feems to be but a very indifferent Houfe, 
 tm Germanos for a great Prince ; tho* it has fome good Shew on 
 NoveJium,Bon- the Outfide ; The Gardens belonging to it are 
 ^“iam ^Caivif m i§htily hoafted of. There was a Burgo- matter 
 ^AN D £ /?- °f Cologn in the Boat, who told me, as we palled 
 N4CH. and by Anaernach , that there are fome Gentlemen in 
 Keyferfeuaert that City, who have particular Privileges, and 
 ^ v f, a Rl S^ ^re called, Equites Libert. He alio told me many 
 Rhine. Stories or a great Houle on the other Side the 
 Some Years Rhine* which is not inhabited, and which he faid 
 ago as they was haunted with Spirits •, the ordinary Scandal of 
 were prepar- uninhabited Houfes or Cattles, 
 ing a Piece of 
 
 Ground in order to erect a Battery on it, they difeovered a Vault, in which 
 there was found an Iron Chell full of gold Medals, which were valued all to- 
 gether at a Hundred thoufand Crowns. They were of the fineft Gold, and 
 fome of them were fa thick as to weigh Eight hundred Ducats, Tho’ they 
 were of the fame Coin^f fmall Medals, or the Roman large ones, yet they 
 were bafely counterfeited, and the few of them that were, whether true or 
 faife, of the laft Greek Emperors, fhews that they mult be at leaft four or 
 five hundred Years old. Burnet. 
 
 COBLENTZ , COBLENTZ is built upon a Nook of Ground 
 ^Le^ioTrl' La w ^ c h t ^ e Mofelle makes when it falls into the 
 infhe Archbi- Rhine. This City feemed to us to be very agreea- 
 fhoprick of ble, and they told us it was very well for tided on 
 
 Treves, the the Land- fide ; but wefaw only finglc Walls on 
 dieEleftor^of t ^ iat ^ art which is walked by the Mofelle and the 
 Treves, and Rhine. The Cattle which is on a rifing Ground, on 
 the molt anci- 
 ent Archbifhoprick in all Germany. The Chapter of Treves admits neither 
 Princes nor Counts eaiily. The Canons are, as much as is pollible, only Gen- 
 tlemen ; they mult prove fixteen Dcfcents of Nobility, both on the Father 
 and Mother’s Side. Heifs. Gives comes Junt, blandi, candidi ; utinipfisag- 
 tofeas genium Gallic a z ivaciiatis cum Germanics candore, gravitate tern - 
 
 peratum. P. Bert jus de Rep. Germ. 
 
 the 
 
Parti. Ehren-Breisten, Baccharach. 89 
 
 1 the other Side of the River, is a very ftrong Place, 
 and commands the whole City. They call this 
 Caftle Ehrenbreiften , which fignifies the famous EHRE N- 
 ' Rock , or the Rock of Honour ; It is built on the B &HSTEN. 
 Ruins of the Fort of Hermeftein , of which there 
 remains only that point of the Rock on which 
 the Windmill {lands. There is always a good 
 Garrifon in this Place, with Store of Arms and 
 Ammunition. The Palace of the Eledlor of 
 Treves is at the Foot of the Hill, under the For-? 
 trefs, and on the Bank of the Rhine . 
 
 Fix Rheno minor hie , placidos dum permeat Agros > 
 
 Frugibus Cr Pomis, & dulci fer tills Uvd> 
 
 Nomen , Aquafque fuas , proprio fub jure retent ans^ 
 
 Fluminis ex gemini confluxu nomen habentem 
 Servat adufque locum : Vittor mox Rhenus utrumque 
 Eripit , £5? mixtis dominatur fortior undis . 
 
 Gunth. Ligur, 
 
 Over- ag a inst the Town of Caub, which 
 belongs to the Elector Palatine, half a League 
 from Baccharach , which belongs to the fame 
 Prince, there is an old Caftle called Pfaltz in 
 the Middle of the Rhine , from whence, as fome 
 fay, the Pfaltzgraves , or as we call them, the 
 Palfgraves , ox Counts Palatine, derive their Name, 
 
 Baccharach is a very little Town built on the Side g ACCH A- 
 of a Hill, and famous for it’s excellent Wines, rach. 
 One of the Minifters of the Place, with whom 
 we dined, pretends that Baccharach is derived 
 from Bacchi Ara , or the Altar of Bacchus ; and 
 he told us there were four ancient Towns in the 
 Neighbourhood, which were alfo confecrated 
 to Bacchus: Steegbach , which is feated on a Hil- 
 lock, Sc ala Bacchi , the Ladder , or Stairs of Bacchus: 
 
 Diebach, Digitus Bacchi , or the Finger of Bacchus : 
 
 Handbach, orManersbach y Manus Bacchi > or the 
 
 Hand 
 
9 o 
 
 Mentz. A New Voyage V ol. I. 
 
 Hand of Bacchus : And Torch, Laurea Bacchi, or 
 the Bays of Bacchus . 
 
 A s we parted from Baccharach , a furious Storm 
 arofe, in which a large Boat was caff away, and 
 ours was alio in fome Danger. V/e went alhore 
 a little before we came to Rudijheim , where the 
 bad Weather conftrained us to Hay awhile ; and 
 paITed by an old ruinous Houle, which they faid 
 M en tz was belonged to that wicked Archbifhop of Mentz , 
 madeanArch- who was eaten by Rats. The Rhine makes in 
 bifhoprick by that Place a little Hand, in the Midft of which 
 Ann*- 1S a ^l uare Tower, which they call the Tower 
 / of Rats: And it is commonly reported, that 
 this Prelate, who was the mod wicked and 
 cruel Man of his Age, fell fick in that ruin- 
 ous Houfe I fpeak of, (fome fay it was in ano- 
 ther a little farther off, which is not material 
 to the Story,) and that, by an extraordinary 
 Judgment of God, he was environed with 
 Rats, which could by no Means be driven a- 
 way. They add, that he caufed himfelf to be 
 carried into the I Hand, where he hoped he might 
 have been freed from them, but the Rats fwam 
 over the River and devoured him. An inge*- 
 nious Man, \fhom I faw in this Place, affured me, 
 that he had read this Story in fome old Chroni- 
 cles of the Country. He faid he remember’d, 
 that the Archbifhop was named Renald , and that 
 this Accident happened in the tenth Century. 
 I would have willingly given Credit to his Rela- 
 tion ; but I fear there is fome Miftake in it. For 
 I know that about this Time there was a certain 
 Prieit named Arnold , who fradulently difpof- 
 feffed the Archbifhop Henry *, and that this Ar- 
 nold was maffacred by the People, which may 
 have occalioned fome Confufion in thefe Hifto- 
 ries. The Name of the Archbiihop was not Re- 
 Anne 967. nald y but Hatton II, furnamed Bonofus ; and ’tis 
 
 faid, 
 
9 1 
 
 Part I. to ITALY. Mentz, 
 
 Paid, that in a Time of Famine he caufed a great 
 Number of poor People to be affembled in a 
 Barn, where he ordered them to be burnt, fay- 
 ing, Ihefe are the unpr oft ableVer mine, which are good 
 for nothing but to con fume the Bread which jhould ferve 
 for the Suftenance of others . This Story is related p//^ upon the 
 by a great many grave Authors, and generally Teftimony of 
 
 believed here, though fome look upon it as a tfrro relates 
 t- i i o ^ j- MTy that the Me of 
 
 Fable. Some are too apt to give Credit to any G , one of 
 
 Prodigy, and others deferve to be cenfured for t h e Cyclades , 
 their obftinate Incredulity. Since the holy Scrip- wasabandoned 
 ture deferibes a Pharoah , peftered with Lice and hy thelnhabi- 
 Frogs, and a Herod devoured by Worms *, why of ^Rats^He 
 fhould we haftily condemn an Event of the fame adds, That a 
 Nature for a Fable? Hiftory furnifhes us with City of Spain, 
 ieveral Inftances of more furprifing Accidents, ^ow^b 
 which were never controverted. And I remem- Rabbets. One 
 ber I have read two fuch Hiftories in Fafciculns in Fbejfaly by 
 
 Moles. One in 
 France by 
 Frogs. And 
 another in A- 
 frick by Mice. 
 
 tain Man about, ftrongly affaulting him at a 
 Banquet ; nor could they be driven away till they 
 had devoured him. This happened about the 
 Year 1074. He adds. Idem cuidam Principi Po- 
 lonies contigit. The fame Thing happened to a 
 certain * Prince of Poland. * Poppiel II, 
 
 SurnamedStfr- 
 
 danapalus , he, his Wife and Children, were eaten by Rats, Anno 823. Pop- 
 pielus Principes Polonorum Patruos i'uos veneno per fraudem interimit, eofque 
 infepultos projicit led ex cadaveribus mures enati funt, qui Poppielum & 
 ambos ejus hlios una cum uxore devotant. Cbron. dt Pol. Garni places 
 this Event in the Year 830, and adds, that the Rats gnawed the Name of 
 Hatton , which was in many Places in the Tower of the Rhine The Hif- 
 tory of Hatton is related at large by Trithemius in his Chronicle?, by Came- 
 rarius in his Meditations, and many others. Calvijius reports, that in 101 3. 
 a certain Soldier was eaten by Rats. See 1 Sam. ch. vi. ver. 4, 5. 
 
 Temporum . The Author fays, that Mures infiniti 
 convenerunt quemdam , potenter circumv allant es eum 
 in convivio nec potuerunt abigi donee devoraretur. 
 That is, a Multitude of Mice compaffed a cer- 
 
 From 
 
9 2 
 
 ME NTZ, 
 
 an Arch- 
 bifhoprick and 
 TJniverrity. 
 The native 
 Country of 
 Pope JOAN. 
 
 Mentz. A New Voyage Vol. 1. 
 
 From Bonn to Binghen , feven or eight Leagues 
 below Mentz , the Rhine is for the molt Part be- 
 tween the Mountains ; this Paffage, which it fo 
 happily met with, feems to be a particularWork 
 of Providence. You would fanfy it to be a Canal 
 made on Purpofe for this River, thro 5 a Coun- 
 try, which naturally was inaccefiible to it, left 
 not being able to continue it’s Courfe, it fhould 
 fwell and overflow the Provinces, which now 
 it only waters. At the Foot of the Mountains, 
 which thus fhut it up, the whole Country is full 
 of Vineyards ; and there are to be feen, on it’s 
 Banks, both on the right and left Side, a great 
 Number of little Towns and good Villages. 
 There is alfo a great Number of Caftles, moll 
 of them built on Hills, and even on the Points 
 of the fharpeft Rocks. I counted above forty 
 fince our Departure from Cologn. 
 
 I observed alfo by the Way, aftrangeFan- 
 tafticalnefs in the Habits of the Peafants, efpe- 
 cially the Women. About Bonn and Rhindorf 
 they wear only on their Heads, a little Cap of 
 coloured Stuff, bordered with a Galoon of another 
 Colour. Their Hair hangs in Treffes quite down 
 their Backs. They make their Wafte extreamly 
 fhort, and have a broad Leather Girdle, with 
 which they gird themielves half a Foot below 
 their Wafte, which compaffes them with a thick 
 folded Rowl, and lifts up their Petticoats fo high, 
 that they reach but little below their Knees. 
 
 The Rhine is very broad, all the Way betwixt 
 Binghen and Mentz . At Mentz you go over it 
 on a Bridge of Boats, which hath no Rails. 
 The firft Thing you meet with, when you come 
 to this City from Cologn , is the Elector’s Palace : 
 It is of a reddifh Stone, and of an Architecture 
 accompanied with a great Number of Ornaments, 
 after the German Fafhion ; other wile ’tis both re- 
 gular and magnificent. The 
 
I 
 
 Parti. VITALY. Mentz. 93 
 
 The bad Weather hindered us from going to 
 the Arfenal, as well as the Citadel and other For- 
 tifications : But we are allured our Lois was not 
 great, there being nothing remarkable in any 
 of them. 
 
 They told us, that in the Middle of the Ci- 
 tadel there isakindof Tower, commonly called 
 the T omb of Drufus. Drufus Germanicus , Brother 
 to Tiberius, died in Germany, and was extreamly 
 lamented by the People and the Army : But he died 
 not on the Rhine. Befides, you may remember, 
 that his Body was carried to Rome , to be burnt 
 in the Field of Mars . It is true, that after Au- 
 gujlus had caufed the Senate to give him the 
 Surname of Germanicus , he alfo caufed Sta- 
 
 tues to be eredted for him, with triumphal 
 Arches, and other Monuments on the Banks of 
 the Rhine: And perhaps this Tower or Maufo- 
 leum was an honorary Tomb, which the An- 
 cients called KivoTctpov. 
 
 The Ornaments in which the Electors cele- 
 brate Mafs, are extreamly rich : And the Ca- 
 nopy under which the Hoft is carried, on cer- 
 tain Occafions, is all covered with Pearls. I 
 remember I have read in the Chronicles of 
 the Abbot of Ufperg , that they had formerly in 
 the Treafury of the Veftry, a hollow Emerald 
 of the Bignefs and Shape of half a large Melon. 
 
 This Author fays, that on certain Days they put 
 Water into this Cup, with two or three little 
 Fiihes that fwam about in it ; and when the Cup 
 was covered, they fhewed it to the People, and 
 the Motion of the Fifhes produced fuch an Ef- 
 fect, as perfuaded the filly People that the Stone 
 was alive. 
 
 Every Eledtor bears the Arms of his own 
 Houfe, but the Eledtor of Mentz quarters Gules , 
 
 * JVheel Argent , which are the Arms of the Ele- 
 ctorate. 
 
 I 
 
94 
 
 Mentz. A New Voyage Vol. X, 
 
 * Willi gife or &orate. It is faid, that the Original of thefe 
 Viligefe of the Arms came from the * firft Ele&or, who was 
 Country of the g on G f a Cartwright, in the great Church 
 
 - ^ WM.A I- TT i M. x J. ’WXXV** VU 
 
 ThTchapteris ftiew feveral magnificent Tombs of thefe 
 
 wholly com- Princes, who ufually are buried there, 
 pofed of Gen- 
 tlemen. There are 42, of which 24 are only Capitularies. Two thirds of 
 their Suffrages are required in the Choice of an Elector. Heifs. The Uni- 
 verfity was founded by the Archbifhop Ditherus , Anno 1482. Calvif. 
 
 The P rote ft ants may live at Mentz , but are 
 not permitted to exercife their Religjon. The 
 City is indifferently large, but not very populous ; 
 and the Univerfity is in no very good Condition. 
 However, the Situation is pleafant enough* and 
 the Country about it is extreamly fertile. 
 
 You know the Ele£tor of Mentz , is the firft 
 of the ecclefiaftick Eledlors *, and therefore of the 
 electoral College. ’Tis by Virtue of this Dig- 
 nity, that he has the Privilege to appoint the 
 Day of Election, when an Emperor dies, or 
 when a King of the Romans is to be chofen. I 
 fhall fay nothing of his Forces or Revenues, nor 
 of thofe of the other Princes *, for ’tis almoft im- 
 poffible to procure an exa6t Account of Things 
 of that Nature. 
 
 I am , 
 
 Mentz Kov. 3, 
 
 S I R, 
 
 Tours . , &c. 
 
 LE T- 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Frankfort. 
 
 95 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 SIR , 
 
 H AVING paired the Rhine before Aientz , 
 we entered into the Mein , which, by the 
 Way, is by fome called Moganus , as well as 
 Mcenus •, and from thence fome think Moguntia 
 took it’s Name. We made Ufe of the ordinary 
 Boat of Frankfort , where we arrived the lame FRANK - 
 Day betimes. FORT, an 
 
 This City is larger, richer, fairer, and better 
 peopled than Mentz . It’s Fortifications make a Baltions, ‘ 
 very fine Shew, tho’ they have their Defe&s. It 
 is feated in a fiat Country, and hath no Suburbs. 
 
 The Houfes are built of that red kind of Stone, 
 which I mentioned before, or of Wood and Plai- 
 ner covered with Slates. The Mein, which is 
 a confiderable large River, leaves it on the 
 Right. A Stone Bridge, four hundred Paces 
 long, makes the Communication between Frank - ' 
 fort and Saxenhaufen. I fhall obferve by the By, 
 on the Article of Mein , that Charle?nagne em- 
 ployed an Army during a whole Summer to 
 dig a Canal of Communication between this 
 River and that of Regnitz , and from the Regnitz , 
 as far as the Aim that falls into the Danube ; in 
 order, by that Means, to join the two Seas: But 
 the Work was interrupted and given over. P. 
 
 Bertius , who mentions this great Undertaking, 
 fays, that the Marks of it are to be feen in di- 
 vers Places, but efpecially near Weijfenburg . 
 
 FRANKFORT is an imperial City, and has a 
 fmall Territory under it’s Government. The Sena- 
 tors are Lutherans , as alfo the greateft Part of the 
 
 Inha- 
 
 i ' f 
 
9 6 
 
 * It was burnt 
 
 Frankfort. A New Voyage Voh I. 
 
 Inhabitants. Th zRoman Catholicks are in Poffeflion 
 of the principal Church*, in which the Ceremo- 
 ny of anointing the Emperor is performed. But 
 they carry the Holt incognito , and make no pub- 
 lick Proceflions. The P rot eft ants , whom they 
 call Calvinifts , have the Exercife of their Reli- 
 gion at Bokenheim y which is a fmall Hour’s Walk 
 from thence, in the County of Hanau . They 
 
 are obliged to marry and chriften in the Luthe- 
 ran Churches. 
 
 In the* Town-houfe, we took a View of the 
 in the Year Chamber in which the Emperor is eledted, and 
 1640* 'with where they keep one of the -f Originals of the 
 the Records of Golden Bull : There is nothing magnificent in 
 'charlJmagne Chamber. It’s Furniture confifts of old Ta- 
 madeit a free peltry Hangings, a large Table with a green 
 City, and en- Carpet, and great Elbow-Chairs of black Velvet 
 dowedfit wkh f or t j ie Eledtors. On the Side of this Chamber 
 vidcgc^r r 1S Hall, where certain Ceremonies are per- 
 formed, which fucceed the Eledtion *, and when 
 t The other they are over, the Emperor defeends from the 
 two Originals Hall, and goes to the Church, where he is 
 
 E crowned. 
 
 berg. Heifs has 
 
 publifhed a Tranflafcion of this Bull, at the End of his Hillory of the Em- 
 pire. All the three Originals are fealed with the fame Seal, and written in 
 Latin. 
 
 The Golden Bull is a Book of twenty four 
 Sheets of Parchment, in Quarto % which are fewed 
 together, and covered with another Piece of 
 Parchment, without any Ornament. The Seal 
 is fattened to it by a filken String of many Co- 
 lours, and is fo covered with Gold, that it re- 
 fembles a Medal: It is two Inches and a half in 
 Breadth, and a large Line in Thicknefs, Upon 
 the Seal is the Emperor Charles IV, Rated and 
 crowned, holding a Scepter in his Right-hand, 
 and a Globe in his Left. The Scutcheon of the 
 
 Empire 
 
 
Part I. ^ I T A L Y. F k a n c f o r t. 
 
 Empire is on his Right, and that of Bohemia on 
 the Left, with thefe Words round the whole, 
 Carolus Quart us druind fatvent e dementia Romanorum 
 hnperator fe?nper Auguftus •, and on each Side neat 
 the two Scutcheons, Et Bohemice Rex . On the 
 Reverfe there is a kind of a Gate of a Cattle be- 
 tween two Towers, which apparently denotes 
 Rome , this Verfe being written about it *, 
 
 Roma Caput Mundi regit Orbis freena Rotundi. 
 
 And over the Gate, between the two Towers, 
 Roma aurea . 
 
 The Bull was granted at Nuremberg , in January 
 1 356, by the Emperor Charles IV , with the Con- 
 fent of all the States of the Empire, who were 
 aflembled in that City. The Defign of the Infti- 
 tutors was, that this Edidt fhould be perpetual 
 and irrevocable ; yet * many Innovations have 
 been fince introduced according to the general 
 manner of the Things of this World, in which 
 nothing is lafting, fcarce even the Confeffions of 
 Faith in any one Sedt of Chrittians. It orders 
 particularly the Form of the Election of the Em- 
 peror, or -f" the King of the Romans , whom it 
 frequently ttyles the temporal Flead of the 
 Chriftian World. It contains alio feveral Re- 
 gulations that relate to the Electors, concern- 
 ing their Rank, their Affemblies, their Privi- 
 leges and Immunities, the Right of Succefiion 
 to the Eledlorates, and the Manner after which 
 every one of them is to perform his refpedtive 
 Function in the publick Ceremonies* It ordains 
 thefe Princes to affemble once a Year to fettle 
 the Affairs of the Empire. The Eledtor of Saxo- 
 ny , in Conjundtion with the Eledtor Palatine 
 are declared Regents of the Empire, after ' the 
 Vol. I. H Death 
 
 97 
 
 * Particularly 
 in the T reaties 
 of Wejlphalia . 
 
 f The Empe- 
 ror, and the 
 King of the 
 Romans , in 
 the Senle of 
 the Bull, are 
 butonePerfon. 
 In it he is of- 
 ten called the. 
 Head of the 
 Faithful, and 
 firft Prince of J 
 the Chriftian 
 World, " 
 
 . f 
 
98 Francfort. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Death of the Emperor. But fince the Alteration 
 that was made, in favour of the Duke of Bavaria> 
 that Eledlor pretends to the Regency. 5 Tis a 
 Queftion whether the Regency was annexed to 
 the Eledlorate, in which the Duke of Bavaria 
 was in veiled, or whether it was entailed on the 
 Family of the Counts Palatines. 
 
 Now when there is a King of the Romans , 
 he is perpetual Vicar and Heir of the Empire. 
 It was for this Reafon, that Philip II, had only 
 the Kingdom of Spain for his Share, and that 
 Ferdinand his Uncle, who in the Life of Charles V, 
 was eledled King of the Romans , fucceeded in 
 the Empire. 
 
 FRANC FOR? is the Place appointed by the 
 Bull, for the Eledtion of the Emperor. 
 
 Conveniunt Proceres , totius vifcera Regni , 
 
 Sede fatis not a, rapido quce proxima Moeno , 
 
 Clara fitn , populoque frequens , murifque decora ejl . 
 Sed rude nomen hahet *, nam Pent onus Incola dixit , 
 Francofurt : Nobis liceat Sermone Latino 
 Francorum dixijfe vadum : £)uia Carolus illic 
 Saxonas indomitd nimium feritate rebelles 
 Oppugnans , rapide latiffima flumina Mcsni 
 Ignoto fregijje vado , mediumque per amnem 
 FranfmifiJJe fuas , negleblo ponte , cohortes 
 Creditur : Inde locis manfurum nomen inhcefit, 
 
 Ligurinus de Eledlione Freder. I. 
 
 Nevertheless, Henry II was chofen at 
 Mentz , and Henry III at Aix la Chapelle *, fome 
 have been alfo eledted at Cologn , and others at 
 Augsburg , and Raiisbon. It was alfo ordained, 
 that the Emperor fhould be firfb crowned at Aix y 
 which for a long Time hath not been pradlifed. 
 
 Every 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Francfort. 99 
 
 Every Eledtor may have * two hundred Men * This is no 
 for his Guard and Retinue, during the Time of W cr 
 the Eledtion. And the Citizens of Francfort are of ekaing the 
 to take Care, that no Strangers be found in their Emperor, there 
 City at that Time, upon Pain of lofing their Pri- is a whole Ox 
 vileges. This Bull contains many other Regula- ln * , 
 tions, which I fhall not at prefent relate. larded/ and ? 
 
 fluffed with 
 
 wild Fowls and Venifon. After the Feaft the Ox is left to the People. Bour« 
 joa Dign. Temp. Others fay, the Emperor goes himfelf, and cuts fome Slices 
 off the Ox as it is upon the Spit ; but a Friend of mine here denies both. 
 
 The famous Treacle of Francfort was made by 
 Dodtor Peters , who was very fkilful in Pharmacy, 
 and in other Refpedts a very curious Perfon* 
 There are more than an hundred feveral Drugs 
 that enter this Compofition, which were all ranked 
 in Pyramids, on a long Table. The Doctor 
 l had many Antiquities, and other choice Rarities ; 
 
 among which he highly valued a Nephritick Stone 
 ; which is as big as one’s Head, and coft him 
 1600 Crowns. 
 
 There are in this Place a great Number of 
 Jews •, but they are as beggarly-, as thofe of Am* 
 derdam are rich. They wear their Beards pick- 
 ed, like Charles 1 , and have black Cloaks, with 
 ! puffed Ruffs. They go from Tavern to Tavern, 
 to fell Things to Strangers: But being reputed 
 Thieves, one muft take heed of them* They are 
 'obliged to run and fetch Water when any Fire 
 happens in the City. 
 
 You know, the Fairs of Francfort contribute 
 much to the Fame and Riches of that City* 
 There are three every Year, which bring a con~ 
 iderable T rade to it. I am , 
 
 Trane forty 
 \ T ov. 7 , 1687, 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Yours , &rc. 
 
 H x LETTER 
 
 I 
 
<ioo 
 
 Worms* A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 A S we took Coach at Francfort to proceed 
 on our Journey, we obferved the Coach- 
 man to put a little Salt upon each of his Horfes, 
 with certain little Ceremonies, which made Part 
 of the Myftery ; and this, as he told us, was to 
 bring us good Luck, and td preferve us from 
 Charms and Witchcraft, during our Voyage. 
 
 W e paffed the Rhine at Gernjheim , and after we 
 had gone through a Foreft almolt drowned, by 
 the over- flowing of that River, which made the 
 Ways both dangerous and difficult, we found a 
 very pleafant Road between the End of thofe 
 Woods, and the City of Worms , which is but 
 
 two ffiort Leagues. This City is feated about 
 
 WORMS 
 
 Vormatia , a 
 
 from^i t^an- 6 ^ t ^ ree or f° ur hundred Paces from the left Bank 
 dent Name of of the Rhine , in an excellent Country, and mo ft 
 Borbetomagus . pleafant Situation. The fame Ligurinus , whom I 
 Bopi?sr6- quoted in my I aft Letter to you, fpeaks after 
 y,cty®r ou- jj -^3 ]y[ anner G f that Place. 
 
 cLyyiovcov 
 
 pud Ptolem. 
 an imperial 
 City, and the 
 Seat of a Bi- 
 fhop, who is 
 to 
 
 Vormatiam petiit , medio qnce gurgite Rheni 
 Gallica Germanis oppomt rura Colonis. 
 
 JJtraque vinetis exuberat : Utraque Pomis , 
 
 Pifcibus , atqne Feris , & cunltis rebus edendis . 
 
 the Archbi- 
 
 IhojK) {Mentx. ’Xis enclofed with a double Wall, without any 
 Garrifon, or even Fortification that is worth 
 * The Biffiop hath a great Autho- 
 
 Suffragan 
 
 mentioning. 
 
 * Worms was 
 formerly an 
 Archbifhop- 
 rick ; but 
 
 Pope Zachary removed the See to Mentz, to punilh the Archbifhop Gen 
 Han, wno, contrary to his Faith, killed a Man, whom he invited 
 the Camp of the Saxons his Enemies, to have a familiar Conference 
 him. Heij's. 
 
 rity, 
 
 Gervil- j 
 out of I 
 :e with ? 
 
IOI 
 
 Part I. ITALY. Wo rms, 
 
 rity, tho’ it be a free and imperial City. ’Tis 
 thought to be almoft as large as Francfort , but 
 poor, and ill peopled. They fhewed me a Houle 
 that was lately fold for a thoufand Crowns, 
 which had been let formerly for a thoufand 
 Crowns per Annum. There are many void Places 
 in this City, in which they have planted fuch 
 Quantity of Vines, that they yield every Tear 
 fifteen hundred Fcudres of Wine out of them. 
 The Foudre is a Calk which contains about two 
 hundred and fifty Englifh Gallons. They are 
 very fond of this Wine, and they have a Pro- 
 verb, Float it is fleeter than the Virgin's Milk. 
 The City prefents fome of it to Perfons of 
 great Quality, who pafs that Way ; as alfo Filh 
 and Oats. The Fifh is to fhew the Right of 
 Filhing, which they have on the Rhine •, but 
 what the Oats fignify I know not : It cannot 
 be to reprefent their Territory, becaufe they 
 have none. The Lutherans have a Church here ; 
 and, befides, they preach by Turns with the 
 Roman Catholicks , in that of the Dominicans ; the 
 reft belong to the Roman Catholicks , who never- 
 thelefs do not carry the Hoft publicklv, nor 
 make any Procelfion, except the Day after Ea - 
 fter. The Proteftants , whom I muft once more 
 name Cahinifts , to diftinguifh them from the 
 Lutherans , have their Church at Newhaufen in 
 the Palatinate, about half a League from the 
 City. The Lutherans fcruple not to go thither 
 fometimes to chriften their Children, if I have 
 been well informed; which is dire&ly oppofite to 
 the Pradlice of the Lutherans at Francfort. 
 
 They fry, that a Lord of the Houfe of Alherg , 
 having brought feveral Jews from Palejline , fold 
 thirty of them for a Piece of Silver to the City 
 of Worms where they were for a long Time 
 treated as Slaves, before they could obtain the 
 H ,3 Liberty 
 
J 02 
 
 I found in Ber- 
 tiuSy feveral 
 Years after my 
 writing this, 
 that this 
 Church was 
 formerly the 
 Duke’s Palace. 
 Tunc muta- 
 tum eftpala- 
 tium Ducis 
 in Monafteri- 
 um ; ex quo 
 poftea fafta eft 
 Ecclefia Colle- 
 giata, quae di- 
 citur San&i 
 Pauli. 
 
 * The Roma- 
 ni fts Churches, 
 Chapels, &c. 
 are full of mul- 
 ti plied Lances, 
 - Nails, Thorns 
 of theC r own, 
 Spunges, &C. 
 
 Worms. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Liberty which they enjoy at prefent, in common 
 with the other Inhabitants. 
 
 The Church of St Paul feems to be an ancient 
 Building *, but I believe that of St John is older. 
 The latter is built with very large fquare Stones, 
 and ids Figure is altogether irregular. TheWails 
 are above twelve Foot thick, the Windows are 
 narrow, and there is a Corridor round the out- 
 fide of the Building, where the Wall is joined to 
 the Top. There is but little Appearance that 
 this was built for a Church. The Cathedral is 
 a long Building of a confiderable Height, with 
 a Tower at each of the four Corners , the whole 
 Structure is very maffive, and full of Gothick Or- 
 naments. They fhewed us a certain Animal, 
 over one of the Doors of this Church, of 
 which the People tell divers Stories. ’Tis as big 
 as an Afs, and hath four Heads *, one Head of 
 a Man, one of an Ox, one of an Eagle, and 
 one of a Lion : It lifts up the two firfh, and 
 lets the other two hang down. The right Foot 
 before is a Man’s, the Left an Ox’s, the two 
 hinder Feet are of an Eagle and a Lion : And 
 a Woman fits upon the Beaft. If I durfl pene- 
 trate into this Myftery, I think it might be 
 conjectured, that this Hieroglyphic is a Chi- 
 mera compofed of the four Animals in the Vi- 
 fion of Ezekieh by whom fome underftood the 
 Evangelifts, and that the Woman reprefents the 
 Gofpel. See Revelat. iv. 7. 
 
 I took Notice of a Picture, upon the Altar of 
 one of the Chapels of this Church, in which 
 the Virgin is reprefented, receiving Chrift as he 
 defcends from the Crofs, while feveral Angels 
 carry the Inftruments of the Crucifixion to Hea- 
 ven. But either the Painter was miftaken, or 
 elfe the Angels have fmce * brought back all 
 thefe Inftruments, that are now prefer ved as Re- 
 licks. A There 
 
io3 
 
 Part I. ^ ITALY. Worms. 
 
 There is another very curious PiXure at the 
 i Entrance of the Church of St Martin , over a 
 | moveable Altar. This Picture is about five Foot 
 { fquare. God the Father is at the Top in one of 
 I the Corners, from whence he feems to fpeak to 
 I the Virgin Mary , who is on her Knees in the 
 | Middle: She holds the little Infant Jefus hanging 
 j by the Feet, and puts his Plead into the Hopper 
 I of a Mill : The twelve Apodles turn the Mill 
 '• with their Hands, and they are affided by the 
 I four Beads of Ezekiel , who work on the other Side. 
 
 Not far off the Pope kneels to receive the Holts, 
 
 ' which fall from the Mill, ready made, into a Cup 
 | of Gold : He prefents one to a Cardinal, the 
 . Cardinal gives it to a Bilhop, the Bilhop to a 
 * Pried, and the Pried to the People. 
 
 There are in this City two Houles that belong 
 I to the Publick •, one of which is called the Bur- 
 : gher’s-Houfe, in which the Senate affembles twice 
 every W eek , about the A ffairs of the State. T he 
 other is for the Magidracy, and is the Place 
 where commbn Caufes are pleaded. It was in 
 ! the fird that Luther had the Courage to appear 
 on an Occafion which is known to all the World, 
 in the Year 1521. They tell us, that this Do- 
 ctor, having fpoken with a great deal of Vehe- 
 mency, and being befides heated by the Warmth 
 of the Stove which was before him, fome Body 
 brought him a Glafs of Wine, which he received *, 
 but he was fo intent upon his Difcourfe, that he 
 forgot to drink, and without thinking of it, fet 
 the Glafs upon a Bench which was by his Side ; 
 immediately after the Glafs broke of it felf, and 
 they are firmly perfuaded that the Wine was poi- 
 foned. I will not make any Reflexions upon this 
 Story, but I mud not forget to tell you, that 
 the Bench on which he fet the Glafs is at prefent 
 full of Holes that were made by cutting off little 
 
 H 4 Pieces, v 
 
104 
 
 f Maximal 
 Ivlpffileni. 
 
 Camerarius 
 writes, that 
 in his Time 
 fome of the 
 Bones of thofe 
 Giants were 
 kept in the 
 Affinal. 
 
 Worms. A New Voyage Vol, I. 
 
 Pieces, which fome zealous Lutherans preferve 
 in Memory of their Matter. Luther fpeaks 
 pretty large of what happened to him at Worms , 
 in his Colloquia Menfalia , Chap. i. 285 and 52. 
 
 We went alfo to fee another Houfe, which 
 they call the Mint *, in which, among other 
 Things, I obferved a *Skin of Parchment, in a 
 fquare Frame, upon which there are twelve 
 forts of Hands, written very fairly, with feve- 
 ral Miniatures, and Draughts boldly traced with 
 a Pen. It was written by one Lhotnas Schuveiker , 
 who was born without Anns, and performed this 
 with his Feet. 
 
 * Lhefe two Verfes are written on the Lop of the Leaf 
 
 Mira fides, pedibus Juvenis facit omnia redla \ 
 
 Cui pariens mater brachia nulla dedit. 
 
 They alfo fhew another little round Piece of 
 Vellijm, about the Bignefs of a Guinea, upon 
 which the Lord’s-Prayer is written, without 
 Abbreviations. But this is no extraordinary 
 Thing. I know a f Man who wrote the fame 
 Prayer fix Times in as fmall a Compafs, more di- 
 ftindbly ; and even, without the Help of a mag- 
 nifying Glafso This Houfe hath a long Portico , 
 between the Arches of which hang great Bones 
 and Horns. They fay the former are the Bones 
 of Giants, and the latter the Horns of the 
 Oxen which drew the Stones with which the 
 Cathedral is built. And are not thefe very 
 curious and venerable Pieces? The Out- fide of 
 the Houfe is full of feveral Paintings, among 
 which there are many Figure^ of armed Giants, 
 which, in the Infcrjption below, are called 
 Vangiones. 5 Tis well known, that the People 
 who formerly inhabited this Part of the Rhine , 
 were called Vangiones , as we may find in Lacitus , 
 and others \ but I cannot tell the Reafon why 
 
 they 
 
Part I. to ITALY. Worms. 105 
 
 they would have thefe Vangiones to be Giants. 
 Neverthelefs, thefe tall and big Men make a 
 great Noife at Worms , where they tell many 
 line Stories of ’em. 
 
 I HA VE a Mind to add here , in this Edition , 
 a Singularity , which I take from Monconys, and 
 of which alfoJ have feme Remembrance my felf 
 
 4 Over -ag a inst the Bifhop’s Houle, fays 
 4 that Traveller, there is a little Place, in which 
 4 they pronounce Sentence of Death againft 
 4 Criminals. And they fhew, at about ten 
 4 Paces Diftance from the Door of the faid 
 4 Houfe, a fhort Stone Pillar fet into the 
 4 Ground, like a Boundary, round which they 
 4 make the Criminal take three Turns ; that 
 4 if, during that Time, he can touch this Stone ; 
 
 4 or elfe, if a young Woman can come at him, 
 
 4 and kifs him three Times, he fhall be delivered : 
 
 4 but there are appointed Perfons, faith the Au- 
 4 thor, always to hinder both. Let every one 
 4 judge as he pleafes of the Original and Ufe of 
 4 this ridiculous and cruel Cuftom.’ 
 
 I must mention here alfo another Particular 
 about Worms , that I met with by chance a few 
 Days ago in the Commentary of Mr Huidri- 
 cus’s fuppofed Hiftory of the pretended Rabbi 
 Juchanan Ben Saccdi , concerning Jefus Chritt : 
 a Book which, by the By, is truly deteftable 
 in it felf; and in my Opinion, would have 
 been much better not to have been publilhed 
 in Latin. This Fool of a Jew, I mean Ju- 
 chanan , which was born at Worms , as we have 
 very ftrong Reafons to conje&ure : This Rabbin, 
 
 I fay, pretends that there were Jews at Worms a 
 long Time before the Coming of our MESS IAS', 
 and that Herod fent ExprdTes to them, ' to con- 
 fult what fhould be done with him ; and that 
 their Synagogue at Worms voted all for the 
 
 faving 
 
iq6 
 
 FRAN KEN- 
 DAL. 
 
 MAN HEIM. 
 
 Frankendal. A New Voyage VoL L 
 
 faving of his Life : From whence he concludes. 
 That the Jews of Worms ought to be diftinguifhed 
 from the others, and favoured by the Chri- 
 ftians. And, indeed, Mr Wagenfeilius , who is 
 cited by the Commentator, fays, that there are 
 fome Jews at Worms that have better Notions 
 of Jefus Christ than the reft of the Jews have. 
 Mr Hnldricus fays alfo, in quoting Rabbi Geda - 
 Hah) that the Jews of Worms believe that the 
 L’etragrammaton is written [invifibly] in the Roof 
 of their Synagogue *, which is the Reafon why 
 they never touch it with a Broom, to wipe off 
 the Spiders and Cobwebs. 
 
 W e only paffed thro* Frankendal , the Fortifi- 
 cations of which are pretty good, and would be 
 better if they were lined ; for they are forced 
 to flope them too much, becaufe the Soil is too 
 foft, and, I fuppofe fandy, could not otherwife 
 ftand faft. And this Defecft has appeared greater 
 yet, in the Fortifications of Manheim. Thefe 
 two little Places belong to the Eledior Palatine : 
 ’Tis but two Hours Journey from the one to 
 the other. The Situation of Manheim is iPs 
 greateft Strength : For it is not commanded by 
 any rifing Ground, and is almoft furrounded 
 by the Neckar and the Rhine , which that Place 
 commands. There is a good Garrifon in the 
 Citadel •, but the greateft Rarity that I found 
 in it, is the Temple called the Concord . The 
 Eletftor Charles Louis , Father of the late Elec- 
 tor Charles , caufed this Church to be built to 
 ferve in common for thofe that are Followers of 
 the Setfts of Calvin , of Luther , and of the Pope . 
 This is the Truth of the Matter, as I fhall prove 
 to you by and by: And, really, on the Day 
 of it’s Confecration, a Prieft of the Romifh Ca- 
 tholick Perfuafion preached in his Turn, after 
 the reformed ones. Some fay it was only thro’ 
 
* 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Manheim. ioy 
 
 the Humour and Caprice of the Prince. They 
 add alio, that the Difcourfe of the Romijh Prieft 
 was rather an Encomium on the Eledtor, than 
 a Sermon ; and that that Prince fo little intended 
 to introduce the Romijh YVorfhip into this new 
 Church, that, during his Life, the Lutherans and 
 the Calvinijis had the foie Uif of it. 
 
 I know that the Eledlor, who feared the Noife 
 and Alfaults of the reformed Priefts, was very 
 circumfpedt with the Romijh ones ; but, how- 
 ever, what I am going to fay, will clearly prove 
 that the Intention of the Founder did outwardly 
 embrace together the three Sedts, within the 
 Walls of his CONCORD. 
 
 The following Crols is placed upon one 
 End of the Roof of the Church ; and the hidden 
 'Meaning of this Sort of Hieroglyphick (of which 
 I am particularly informed,) makes the Truth of 
 what I advance evidently to appear. The Crols 
 in the Middle, is the Crofs of CHRIST, or, 
 if you pleafe, of Chriflianity . From this Crols 
 proceed three others, which are joined to it, and 
 have it always for their Support ; and the other 
 three Crolfes defign the three Sedts of Luther , 
 
 Calvin , and the Pope> which have all three fas 
 well as the other Sedts of which the World is 
 full) the true Foundation of Faith, to wit, JE- 
 SUS CHRIST. The Defign of the Founder 
 was not only to fhew that the different Chriftian 
 Sedts have one and the fome Origin, and retain 
 the Reality and Elfence of the true faving Doc- 
 trine none of them denying the Title of Chrif* 
 tians to the reft that dilfent from them •, but he 
 alfo lets us fee, by this Figure, that he was wil- 
 ling to re-unite thefe wandering Crolfes in the 
 middle Crofs, which reprefented his Temple of 
 Concord . After this, can one any longer call in 
 Queftion the Defign of this Concordial and Pad - 
 fying Prince ? If 
 
If ' more Leifure would give me Leave, I 
 could willingly add Tome Reflections on this im- 
 portant Matter, which is both fo ill underftood 
 and treated of between the Multitude of lamen- 
 table 
 
 < 
 
I 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Manhei m. 109 
 
 table Sedts, not to lay Cabals and Fadlions, 
 which cruelly tear and divide the ChriftianWorld *, 
 but it is neither poflible, nor reafonable for me 
 to engage myfelf here, in a long Difcourfe. I 
 fhall only deplore the unfuccefsful Work of our 
 mild Eledtor, in that vain Re-union of thofe 
 whom he brought together in his little Temple, 
 without having united at all their Hearts and 
 Opinions. To what Purpofe is it to have Mi- 
 nisters of every Sedt preach and pray in the 
 fame Place, if every one, perfifting in their 
 old Hatred and Fury, is always ready to per- 
 fecute thofe that are not of his Fadlion, which 
 he calls Religion, and in his Notions? And if 
 every one, full of himfelf, and of his pretended 
 Orthodoxy, treats the reft cf Mankind as Here- 
 ticks, and condemns them to the Flames, tho’ 
 they do not difpute but about accidental Mat- 
 ters, that having nothing to do with the primi- 
 tive Purity, or the eftential Part of Chriftiani- 
 ty, in which they all agree? To re-unite the 
 Priefts of Manheim , as alfo a great many others, 
 there muft be a Method found out to engage 
 them in the fame Intereft. If the Eledtor had 
 only given to each of thofe Dodtors a good 
 Penfion, on Condition they would agree the 
 Matter fo well among themfelves, and order 
 the Terms in fuch a Manner, that all might find 
 his own Belief in them, and fpeak the fame Lan- 
 guage, we ftiould quickly have feen all the vain 
 Subjedts of their Controverfies retrenched •, they 
 would unanimoufiy have applied themfelves on- 
 ly to what was fubftantml and neceffary , and 
 fo have pafted the Remainder of their Days 
 peaceably, in a VERITABLE CON- 
 CORD; like good and TR UE CHRIS- 
 TIAN S. Of all that vaft Number of Pro- 
 pofitions that hath been made, in order to unite 
 
 all 
 
I IO Manhe i m. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 all the different Religions, or rather Seels, I 
 dare boldly fay, that this laft is the only one 
 I mean to ^ at * reafonable. Without infilling then 
 
 troverted Que- an Y longer on the Intention or Charles Lewis , 
 itions, or Mat- the Founder of this little Temple, the Mat- 
 ters, that may ter of Fa 6 t is, that now the prefent Eledlor, 
 not 1 belon’in 3 a Doman Catholich, has thought fit to join 
 
 to the^Cnow? thofe °f his Communion with the others. The 
 ledge of Saha- three Minifters of the three feveral Religions, 
 tion; and to perform, each in their Turn, Divine Service in 
 fUndamenml° n t ^ ie Church Concord. They begin and end 
 and neceflkry fucceffively ; fo that once in three Sundays, 
 Doftrines. each of the three Minifters have the Privilege 
 to begin firft, as alfo to be the fecond and the 
 third. The Church is not large, but pretty fine. 
 The Pulpit is in common : When the Roman 
 Catholicks have ended Mafs, they draw the Cur- 
 tain, and hide the Altar. 
 
 You will not be dilpleafed at my faying fome- 
 thing alfo concerning the Medals that are en- 
 clofed in the Foundation-Stone of that Building, 
 that the Eledlor laid with his own Hands. The 
 chiefeft Medal is of Gold of the Rhine : For one 
 may extradl fome from the Sands of that famous 
 River, if he hath a Mind to be at a greater Ex- 
 pence than the Gold is worth. That Medal 
 weighs fix Ducats, and is three Inches diame- 
 ter. On one Side are thefe Words: 
 
 (ij D. O. M. A. {i) Deo, Optimo, Maximo, 
 
 DIVA!. HOC. CONCORDIA . Aterno. 
 
 Monumentum . 
 
 Sacr. Adem. 
 
 Perpetuce . Securitati. 
 
 (i) De. Suo. &. in. Suo . 
 
 ( %)Pro.fui. Dimidio.fe toto. Suifqne . 
 Vovens . extrux . 
 
 Prim . Lapid. fua . man. 
 
 Pofuit. 
 
 CA 
 
 (2) At his Expence, and 
 in his Fortrefs. 
 
 (3) For the half of him- 
 felf, the laft Wife he 
 married, &V. She was 
 interred in this Church, 
 
 chofen 
 
Part I. VITALY. M 
 
 ANHEIM. 
 
 I I I 
 
 CAROLUS. LUDOVICUS . 
 
 Pal. El. 
 
 M. DC. L. XXVII. 
 
 XXVIII. Martii. 
 V. S. J. M. J. 
 
 chofen to be, for the 
 future, the Sepulchre of 
 the Family : And the 
 Elector was alfo bu- 
 ried their five Years 
 after. 
 
 And on the other Side. 
 
 (4) Ex Aur. Rh. Pah 
 Juffu. Principis . 
 
 (4) Ex Auro Rhenano Pa - 
 latinatus , or Palatino . 
 
 There is alfo a filver Medal, with the Figure 
 of that Temple on one Side, Diva Concordia ; 
 and on the other, a Thunder- bolt upon an Al- 
 tar, with this Word Confecratio. Thefe Medals 
 are accompanied with a Bible , and a Bottle of 
 Claret , and another of White wine . 
 
 About forty Years ago, Manheim was but a 
 little Village, in the Place where the Citadel 
 {lands at prefent. * Frederick , Father of Charles * King of Bi- 
 Lewis, caufed it to be fortified, and named it Fre- hernia , , of 
 dericksburg \ and at the fame Time the City was j^ ^e^bovc 
 built, which refumed the Name of Manheim , when we fS 
 and was fortified alfo. All the Streets are in of Rbenen . 
 flraight Lines ; and in fome of them there are 
 Trees planted, as in Holland. Manheim is a 
 very pretty Place. Every Day at Five of the 
 Clock in the Morning, at Noon, and at Six 
 in the Evening, there are hired Muficians, who 
 fing Part of a Pfalm on the Tower of the 
 Town-houfe. They have fuch loud Inftru- 
 ments, that they are heard all over the Town. 
 
 This Cuftom prevails in mod Places of the 
 Palatinate. 
 
 When we left Manheim , after we had paffed 
 the Neckar on a Bridge of Boats, we traverfed a 
 very fertile Plain, which continues for three large 
 Hours, to the Foot of the Mountains of Heidel- 
 
 berg. 
 
II 2 
 
 Heidelberg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 berg. Thefe Mountains make along Ridge, and 
 
 appear as if the Palfage was flopt up. Yet 
 
 we met with an opening, thro’ which the Neckar 
 
 goes out. We palEed this River on a covered 
 
 Bridge, and found the City of Heidelberg on the 
 
 The Umyern- ot ^ r gpje ; w hi c h lies high and low among the 
 ty was found- 7,0 o 
 
 HEIDEL- 
 B E R G. 
 
 ed by Count 
 Robert , 1346. 
 
 * This City 
 was ftormed, 
 and utterly 
 kid waile by 
 the French, 
 May 22,1693. 
 
 The Colojfus 
 of Rhodes , fay? 
 
 21 
 
 Trees and Rocks. It is no very fine City,- and 
 I know not by what Spirit of Contradiction, they . 
 have built it almoll all of Wood, tho* they might 
 eafily have had good Stone in abundance. The 
 Prince’s Palace is upon the Hill. It confifls of 
 many Pieces joined together, and is not finished. 
 
 * The whole is built of Free-Stone, and fome 
 Parts of it are of a fine Architedure. They have 
 made Gardens among the Rocks, but for all the 
 Care they have taken to adorn the Place, it is 
 Hill melancholy and irregular, if we take all 
 together *, and in my Opinion the moft advanta- 
 gious Title that can, with Jullice, be bellowed 
 upon this Houle, is that of a magnificent Hermi- 
 tage, Not long ago the Duchefs of Orleans, 
 Siller of the late Eledor, and Inheritrix of fome 
 Part of his Goods, caufed the Furniture of this 
 Caftle to be taken away, fo that we found it very 
 bare. Every thing was fold even to the Wine 
 of the famous Tun ; and probably they would 
 have taken that away too, had not the Toy been 
 too cumberfom. They go up to it by a Pair 
 Mr Fat in, did G f Stairs of fifty Steps, and above there is a 
 hol u m ° re Platform twenty Foot long, encompalTed with 
 tween" it’s Balifters. The Arms of the Eledor are placed 
 Thighs, than in the fineft Part of the Tun.- Bacchus is in the 
 this great Tun Jargeft Size, with I know not how many Satyrs ; 
 IntHls 11 it*is and other Topers are there alfo. ’Tis adorned 
 adds'* he', 31 ’ with Vines, Grapes, Glalfes, and large Fla- 
 Foot long, and gons in bajjb relievo . And there are likewise 
 
 many German Apophthegms on this rich Sub- 
 
 je£t ' ■ '*9 
 
 Fhs 
 
 ) 
 
Parti, /o ITALY. Heidelberg. 113 
 
 The Misfortunes of War, of which this 
 Country has been made fo often the Seat, have 
 reduced it to a very poor Condition, though it 
 be naturally very good. All Religions are tole- 
 rated; but the Magiftrates are allP rot eft ants. In Die 10 Jan. 
 
 the great Church of this City, there are feveral , , 
 
 magnificent Tombs of the Counts Palatines: That be * g * ; n e p 0 e _ 
 of Robert , King of the Romans , and Founder of pulari lingua 
 the Univerfity of Heidelberg is in the Choir. perafta fuit. 
 
 You are not ignorant of the Lofs which Hei - 
 delberg fuftained in the Year 1622, when it’s fa- 
 mous Library was tranlported to the Vatican . 
 
 I am , 
 
 Heidelberg , Nov, e t 
 
 12, 1687. o 1 K 9 
 
 Tour , &e. 
 
 [PAULUS Melijfus Francus , a Myrtis earn diflam 
 exiftimavit , quafi Myrtorum Urbem . Itaque illam 
 idcirco folitus fuit vocare Myrtilletum ; Es? in Xeniis 
 fic earn loquentem fingit ; 
 
 Heidelberga vocor, Myrtilli vefcula Dona, 
 Monte fub Arbofo, mi tribuere notam. 
 
 Civil as olim magnified, potens, elegans » Ager vicU 
 nus omnium rerum ad vitam necejfariarum efl ferax. 
 Montes quippe Vineis Es? Cafianeis , Ager Segetibus ; 
 Sylva Feris ; Amnes Pifcibus , valles Fontibus abun- 
 dant.'] 
 
 P. Bertius. 
 
 VoL. I. 
 
 I 
 
 LETTER 
 
1 14 
 
 WlNSHEIM, WlMPHEN. Vol. I. 
 
 WIN- 
 SHEIM, 
 an imperial 
 City. WlM- 
 PHEN, an 
 Imperial City. 
 PALEM- 
 BERG. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 SIR , 
 
 rr^W O good Hours on this Side Heidelberg , 
 
 X we pall through whole Forefls of Firr- 
 Trees, and afterwards met with many more. 
 They fet fire to them, cut them down and pluck 
 them up as much as they can ; but the Nature of 
 the Soil produces them fo faft, that they cannot i 
 be utterly deflroyed. All this Country is very i 
 poor, and Money is fo fcarce, that about TVifelocb 
 and Sintzheim , a Loaf of wheaten Bread, weigh- 
 ing eight Pounds, cofts but Two-pence. We 
 fpent four Days in coming hither from Heidelberg ; 
 and we fcarce faw any Thing but Firr-Trees all 
 the Way, I believe there are not more in Caro- 
 lina: There are many little Towns, which de- 
 fer ve not to be mentioned. 
 
 WINS HEIM is the befl of them, and is a free 
 City as well as Wimphen . All the Inhabitants 
 
 of both are Lutherans. I fanfy, a more pleafant 
 Affembly was never feen than that of the Burgo- 
 mailers of the little City of Palemberg. Thofe 
 Gentlemen were in the fame Inn where we eat, 
 which is the Place where they ordinarily meet, 
 when they have any important Affair to de- 
 bate. Imagine you fee a dozen or fifteen Pea- 
 fants in their Sunday’s Cloaths, with high- 
 crowned Flats loaden with green and yellow 
 Ribbons, with red or blue Waft e-coats, and Ruffs 
 or Cravats of black Taffety : Their Hair cut 
 round clofe below their Ears, and their Beards af- 
 ter the Manner of the Capuchins. The whole Club 
 half drunk or fuddled, their Elbows on the Ta- 
 ble, every Man with a large Glafs in his Hand, 
 
 drinking 
 
Parti. Palemberg, Nuremberg. 115 
 
 drinking without Intermifiion, fplittingof Caufes, 
 and every one ftriving to outbawl his Fellow. 
 
 Their Gellures and Poftures are much more di- 
 verting, but fuch as cannot be exprefled. In 
 the mean Time, it is not at all ftrange, that they 
 fhould love Drink fo much in this Country, fince 
 they can have four large Pots of Wine for a 
 Penny •, for they know not what a fmall Mea- 
 fure means. If a Traveller demand a Cup of 
 Wine as he goes by, they bring him a large 
 Jack, enough to make ten Men drunk. 
 
 The Tobacco and the Hops fupply the Place 
 of Vines, when you approach this Place; and 
 the mountainous Country begins to grow even 
 and lower ; fo that you may fee the great and 
 fair City of Nuremberg at a good Diftance. Be- NUREM- 
 fore we arrived there we often found ourfelves on B E R G, 
 the Banks of the little River of Pegnitz> which Nonberga, an 
 runs from it, but ferves only to turn the Mills. m P aia Ity ’ 
 It might be eafily made navigable, and the Pro- 
 fit that would accrue by fuch an Undertaking 
 would recompenfe the Charge. 
 
 Yet this Defedt doth not hinder Nuremberg 
 from being a City of great Trade, very rich, and 
 well peopled. It is laid to be twice as big as 
 Francfort ; and it hath feven other Towns in it’s 
 Territory, with Four hundred and eighty Bo- 
 roughs and Villages. It’s Fortifications are of 
 little Efteem in refpedt of thofe that are now in 
 Ufe; But it enjoys a profound Peace : And being 
 in the Heart of Germany , it’s Neighbours preferve 
 it while they defend themfelves. Should the Em- 
 peror be Mailer of Nuremberg , as he is of his 
 hereditary Countries, it would not be very ad- 
 vantagious to him: For, after all, as free as 
 thefe little States are, they are neverthelels Slaves 
 to the Emperor, being, at the fame time. Fiefs of 
 the Empire. They are obliged to contribute Men, 
 
 I 2 Arms, 
 
Nuremberg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Arms, and Money, upon Occafion : And there 
 would be a thoufand Ways found to torment 
 them, if they lhould refufe to perform what is 
 required of them. 
 
 NUREMBERG is a very fair City, tho’ the 
 Stru£ture of it’s Buildings is fomewhat Gothick , and 
 not at all agreeable to the bed Rules of Archi- 
 pubhck Foun- te( q; Ure# The Houfes are generally large, hand- 
 Wells al Gtf/! f° me ? an d ttrongly built. Some of them are 
 Gualdo. painted on the Out-fide, and almoft all the reft are 
 of very fine Free-ftone. There are Fountains 
 of Brafs in feveral Places of the City : We faw 
 a very magnificent one, which is yet at the Ar- 
 tificer’s Houfe, on which there are Figures of 
 Brafs, to the Value of Seventy thoufand Crowns, 
 as he faid , befides other Ornaments. T he Streets 
 are broad, clean, and well paved ; but ’tis pity 
 they are fo very crooked. The Tradition of 
 the Country will have Nuremberg to be built by 
 Nero, and there is one of the Towers of the 
 Caftle which is called the Tower of Nero ; but 
 this is a very poor Argument. I rather think 
 that Noriberga , called all'o in -Latin, Mons Norico - 
 rim , was derived from Noricum , the old Name 
 of the Country, and the Word Berg , which in 
 High-German , fignifies a Mountain. 
 
 The Emperor The Caftle is on a high Rock, tho’ the reft 
 
 Calk when 6 t ^ C ^*7 1S ^ at * The ^g ure °f ^ Caftle is 
 
 he has'occafi- wholly irregular, becaufe they have been forced 
 on to pat's thro’ to make it agreeable to theMafs of the mifhapen 
 this City. and unequal Rock. They allured us, that the 
 
 Well in it was fixtecn hundred Foot deep, but 
 none of us would believe them •, they alio told 
 us, that the Chain of the Bucket weighs Three 
 thoufand Pounds. We faw in one of the Halls of 
 this Caftle, Four Corinthian Pillars, about fifteen 
 Foot high ; which, they lay, the Devil brought 
 from Rome , upon a Challenge which a Monk 
 
 made 
 
 ii6 
 
 It hath fix 
 Gates, 228 
 principal 
 Streets, 12 
 
Ii7 
 
 Parti. /<? ITALY. Nuremberg. 
 
 made him. The Story would be too tedious to 
 relate at length. They tell another of a famous 
 Conjurer of the Country, who leaped on Horfe- 
 back over the Cattle Ditches ; and fhew the Print 
 of the Horfe’s Shoes on one of the Stones of the 
 Parapet. 
 
 The Ornaments which are ufed at the anoint- 
 ing of the Emperor, are kept in the- Church of 
 the Hofpital. 
 
 The Diadem or the Crown, called * Infula , * This is the 
 is of Gold, and covered almoft all over with c ^ wn 
 precious Stones. It is not clofed as the Impe- ^ahsfoSr- 
 rial Crown is ufually painted. Suppofe that teen Pounds, 
 inftead of the Fleurets on ducal Coronets, there The Privilege 
 are Plates rounded on the Top, which are joined 
 by the Sides, and make the Compafs of the Cap. grante(i t oNu- 
 There are feven of them, and that before is the remberg by 
 mod richly adorned. There is a Crofs on the top the Emperor 
 of all, and a Semicircle fupported between the 
 two Plates behind, which is railed above the Bon- 
 net, and joined to the top of the Crofs. The 
 ! Sceptre and Globe are of Gold ; and they fay that 
 the Sword was brought by an Angel from Hea- 
 ven. The Robe called Dalmatick^ of Charlemagne , 
 is of a Violet Colour, embroidered with Pearls, 
 
 The Imperial Cloak is edged with Pearls, and 
 ftrewed with Eagles of Gold , and a great Number 
 of Jewels. There are likewife the Cope, the Stole, 
 
 -f the Gloves, the Breeches, the Stockings, and -(-Embroider’d 
 the § Bufkins. They alfo keep many Relicks in with precious 
 this Church; and among others, St Longin' s Lance, Stones * 
 
 They are not ignorant that this pretended Lance ^Cover’d with 
 is to be feen in above ten other Places of the i>latcso 0 * 
 World ; but, they fay, theirs came from || An- || Lancca Do- 
 t\och \ it was St Andrew who found it ; one fingle niini reperta 
 Man with it difeomfited a whole Army ; it was 
 
 ruftico, cui beatus Andreas locum oltendit. Quidam cum ca to turn excrci- 
 tum lethihcavit, W. Roolwink. 
 
 J 3 
 
 die 
 
1 1 8 Nuremberg, A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 It is a very t he Thing of the World which Charlemagne loved 
 h^made^no’ mo ^* T 'he other Lances are Counterfeits, and 
 ufeofitagainft this is the true one : They make much of it as a 
 all KisEncmies, precious Memorial, if they do not worfhip it as 
 feeing it’s great a R e lick. They have alfo an extraordinary Ye- 
 
 wMchhecouH neratlon ^ or a Pi ece of the Crofs, in the Midft 
 deitroy them" of which there is a Hole that was made by 
 all at once, and one of the Nails. They tell us, that heretofore 
 fpare Men * the Emperors placed their greateft: Hopes of 
 an- v. oney, p ro fp er ] t y anc [ Succefs, both in Peace and War, 
 * Tar ;? u I n in the PofTeftlon of this enlivening Wood, with 
 pofuemnTlm- the Nail, and f other Relicks that are kept at 
 peratores, ut Nuremberg . 
 fine eorum, 
 
 pofieflione, fibi nec Nomen competere, nec Numen penes fe efte exiftimarint. 
 Neque domi faltem in Gazophylaciis fuis fedem illis ponebant, fed militiaj 
 quoque hoc quafi Palladium fecum habebant : Et quando cum hoftibus dimh 
 eandum erat, omnisViftorise fpes fuper illis nitebatur, Defer. Imp. Lipfanorum. 
 
 ■f The Lance, the Piece of theWood of the Crofs, one of the Nails, five 
 Thorns of the Crown that was put upon Chrift’s Head, Part of the Chains with 
 which St Peter and St Paul were bound at Rome , a little Piece of the Manger, 
 a Tooth of St John Baptif , one of St Anne's Arms, the Towel with which 
 Chrift wiped the Feet of his Apoftles, a Piece of St John the EvangelilPs 
 Gown, and a Piece of the Cloth with which the Table was covered when our 
 Saviour celebrated the Paflover, and his lall Supper with his Difciples. 
 
 Their Lance puts me in Mind of their Arfe- 
 nal, which is one of the mod renowned in Ger- 
 many. There are too great Halls in it, each two 
 hundred and fifty Paces long, and well ftored 
 j| In the Year with Arms. We counted three hundred Pieces of 
 1453, Maho- Canon; but, to fpeak Truth, the greateft Part 
 met II befieged G f t he other Arms are after the old Manner, 
 p/e'^mdbzt- Nlufkets and Harquebuffes, Helmets andCuiraffes 
 tered it with in great Number; fine Hangings for Arienals, 
 feveral Pieces and of no other Ufe. There are many of thofe 
 of Cannon of g reat Canons of a men ftrous Bore, which they 
 Pound Ball ^ ca ^ Mermaids and Bafilisks. And the Biggeft of 
 There was one thefe Pieces carries || a three hundred Pound Ball, 
 amongft the 
 
 reft fo heavy, that there were feventy Yoke of Oxen to draw it. Calvif. 
 
 We 
 
B u 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Nuremberg. 119 
 
 W e alfo (aw the Library ; it is in a Cloyfter 
 which formerly belonged to the Dominic ans y and 
 contains, as they fay. Twenty thoufand Volumes. 
 
 This was collected out of the Ruins of feveral 
 
 Convents, in the Time of the Reformation. The 
 
 moft ancient Manufcript, which they could not 
 
 find, is, fay they, 900 Years old ; it is a Copy 
 
 of theGofpels, with the Prayers and Hymns then 
 
 ufed in the Greek Church. I obferved a Book 
 
 which was printed at Spire , in the Year 1446 *, but It is a Treatife 
 
 there might be an Error in the Figures, for they °/ Predeftina- 
 
 Ihewed us another of the Impreflion of Fauftus at tlon * 
 
 Mentz , in 1459, at the End of which there is 
 an Advertifement, which tells us, Fhat this Book 
 was not written by the Hand , but was printed by an 
 admirable Secret newly invented . J Tis probable 
 
 that this was the fir ft Impreflion which was 
 made at Mentz \ and if it be fo, there is no 
 Ground to fuppofe, that another Book was printed 
 at Spire , thirteen Years before : Nor had Fauftus 
 any Reafon to boaft fo much of his new Secret. 
 
 I have heard, that there is another Impreflion of 
 Durandus’s Ojftciale at Bafil , printed by Fauftus in 
 the fame Year, 1549. 
 
 They keep in this Library many Rarities and 
 curious Antiquities ; but they are not comparable 
 to thofe that are in the Cabinet of Mr Viati. We 
 faw, at this Gentleman’s Houfe, a pretty large 
 Chamber quite filled with divers Arms of all 
 Countries, all U(es, and all Falhions. It is 
 fcarce to be conceived, how one Man, and he 
 a private Perfon, who hath not the Eftate of a 
 Prince, or a very great Lord, could make fuch 
 a vaft Collection*, for the Number is very great, 
 and, I believe, brought from the four Corners 
 of the World. He fhewed us the Experiment 
 of a Wind-Gun, which is a very pretty, but a 
 moft deftruCtive Invention *, becaufe with this 
 1 4 Engine 
 
a zo 
 
 Gcrm^norum 
 vivere bibere 
 
 eft. ' 
 
 Nuremberg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Engine great Mifchiefs may be done afar off, 
 and without any Nojfe, From this Chamber you 
 may go into another, where there are rare Pic- 
 tures, Medals, curious Works ancient and mo- 
 dern, Idols, Shells, Plants, Minerals, and other 
 natural Productions. 
 
 The Town-houfe is very large, and has like- 
 wife a beautiful and well proportioned Front ; but 
 it has no Court before it. When we went from 
 thence, our Friends brought us to the City* 
 Cellar, which is Two hundred and fifty Paces 
 long; and contains, as they told us. Twenty 
 thoufand Tups of Wine. We muft allow it to 
 be a very fair Cellar : But the Truth is, fuch Peo- 
 ple as we knew not how to relifh all the Plea- 
 fures of it. 
 
 You know the Germans are ftrange Drinkers ; 
 there are no People in the World more obliging, 
 civil, and officious ; but they have terrible Cu- 
 ll o ms as to the Point of Drinking. They do no- 
 thing without Drinking ; which feems to be both 
 their Bufinefs and Recreation. There is not Time 
 given to lpeak three Words in a Vifit, but pre- 
 fently comes the Collation, or at leaft fome large 
 Jars of W ine, with a Plate full of Crufts of Bread 
 * p uke hafh’d with Pepper and Salt ; a fatal Preparative 
 of Rohan fays for fuch poor Drinkers as we are, Bpt before we 
 in his Voyage, proceed, I muft give you an Account of thofe 
 lacred and inviolable Laws that are afterwards 
 Succeeded bet- to be obferved, Every Draught muft be a Health, 
 ter than all the and as foon as you have emptied your Glafs, you 
 Mathemati- m uft prefent if: full to him whofe Health you 
 drank. You muft never refufe the Glafs which 
 ing out the is p relented, but drink it off to the lalt Drop, 
 perpetual Mo- Do but refledt a little on thefe Cuftoms, and fee 
 tion, by the how 
 
 it is poffible to leave off drinking : And 
 
 radon of their indeed, they never make an End, * but caroufe 
 Cups. in a perpetual Round : To drink in Germany is 
 
 to 
 
Part I. VITALY, Nuremberg. lit 
 
 to drink eternally. Pardon my Digrefiion, and 
 judge of our troublefome Entertainment in the 
 Cellar. You muft do Penance there for fome 
 Time, and at laft hide your felf behind the Cafks, 
 fteal away, and make your Ffcape. 
 
 You muft further know, that the Glafles are 
 as much refpected in this Country as the Wine is 
 beloved. They place them all en Parade . The 
 greateft Part of the Chambers are wainfcotted, 
 to two thirds of the Walls, and the Glafles are 
 ranged all about upon the Cornifh of the Wain- 
 fcot, like Pipes of Organs. They begin with 
 the little, and end with the great Ones *, and 
 thefe great Ones are always ufed, and muft be 
 emptied at a Draught, when there is any Health 
 of Importance. At going out of the Cellar we 
 went to a Confort, where we hoped we fhould 
 find nothing but Mufick *, yet the Bread, Pep- 
 per, Salt, and Wine followed us in fuch Abun- 
 dance, that an Air was no fooner finifhed, but 
 the whole Company rofe up to drink. 
 
 We faw Yefterday in the Evening fome Part 
 of the Celebration of a Wedding. The intend- 
 ed Hufband, accompanied with a long Train of 
 his Relations, came firft to the Church. He 
 walked from a Houfe, which was not Two 
 hundred Paces diftant, to which he came in a 
 Coach, His Bride, who was in the fame Place, 
 followed a while after, being alfo attended by a 
 great Number of her Friends. When both were 
 come to the Church, the Bridegroom fat down 
 with his Company on one Side, and the Bride 
 on the other, directly oppofite to him •, over each 
 of their Heads there was a Figure of Death upon 
 the Wall, whether defignedly done, I know not. 
 
 They both approached the Minifter, who ex- 
 pected them in the Midft of the Choir : And 
 after he had performed his Office, four or five 
 
 Trumpets, 
 
%2Z 
 
 Nuremberg. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 Trumpets, which were on the Top of the Stee- 
 ple, founded a great many Levets, and the new- 
 married Couple returned in the Manner as they 
 came. 
 
 The Hufband was in a black Suit, with a 
 Cloak over-laid with Lace, a great Ruff, and a 
 little Crown of Gold Plate-Lace above his Pe- 
 ruke. But the Bride’s Drefs will be a little more 
 difficult to defcribe. The bell Account I can 
 give you of it, is to tell you. That in framing to 
 your felf an Idea of her Head-Tire, you muft 
 fanfy a Mixture of gilt Wire, like a Bob Peruke, 
 half a Foot high upon the Forehead, and very 
 much curled and fwelled out on the Sides. This 
 was ordered after fuch a Manner, that in all the 
 Thicknefs of this Bufliy-Drefs there was no more 
 Space or Diftance between the Wires, than was 
 fufficient to fallen to them an infinite Number of 
 little Plates of Gold, round, polifhed, and fhin- 
 ing, which hung both within and without, and 
 waved with the lead Motion. Her Habit was 
 black, with long Skirts refembling the Hongreline j, 
 which were, not very long fince, ufed in France. 
 The Body of this little Caffock, which was cut 
 very fhort, had a gold Lace over all the Seams. 
 The Skirts were full of little clofe Knots of black 
 Sattin Ribbon, and the ftreight Cuffs fell juft on 
 the Fift. Over this fhe had a Neck-band of fine 
 Antique-Lace, cut before like a Man’s Band, 
 and ending in a Point behind, which reached 
 down to the Middle of the Back. She had be- 
 fides a great gold Chain on her Shoulders, juft 
 like the Collar of fome Order, and fuch another 
 Chain for her Girdle. Her Petticoat was fhort 
 enough, and adorned below with Gold Fringe, 
 and black Bone-Lace. We had the Pleafure to 
 fee this fair One dance with a Senator in a great 
 Ruff , and I believe at Japan there could not be 
 
 found 
 
Part I. VITALY. Nuremberg. 125 
 
 found Cuftoms more different from ours, than 
 thofe which we obferved at this Feaft. I fhould 
 never make an End, if I fhould undertake to 
 defcribe all the other Habits. But, as fantafticai 
 as all thefe Drefles feemed at firft View, one 
 might be eafily accuftomed to them ; and every 
 Habit appears handfome and becoming, when 
 the Perfons that wear them are beautiful and agree- 
 able. 
 
 There are not more induftrious People in the 
 W orld than the Artificers of Nuremberg : Some 
 think they were the Inventors of Fire-Arms and 
 Gun Powder: others affirm, that Powder was 
 
 invented at Chioggia , in the State of Venice s and 
 there are fome who pretend that it came from 
 Denmark . The Diversity of Opinions concerning 
 the firft Invention of Artillery, is no lefs remark- 
 able and furprizing than the Controverfy about 
 the Invention of Printing. * John Mendoza Gon- * Bifhop of 
 zalez , whom l had Occafion to mention in one Ll P ari - 
 of my former Letters, who wrote a Hiftory of 
 China , whither he was -f fentby Philip II, fays, ^ ^ 
 that if we may give Credit to the common Tra- 
 dition and Annals of that Country, Fire-Arms, 
 and confequently Gun-Powder, were invented 
 by their firft King Vitey, from whom to the Em- 
 peror Bonog , who poffeft the Throne in the 
 Time of Gonzalez , about the End of the laft 
 Age, they reckoned 243 Princes, who fucceeded 
 one another in a direcft Line from Father to 
 Son. This Author was too judicious to depend 
 upon their imaginary Chronology ; but, with- 
 out entering upon fo intricate a Controverfy, he 
 feems to be convinced, that thefe People were 
 very early acquainted with the Ufe of Artillery. 
 
 § Tavernier writes, that Fire-Arms were invented § L. 3. c. 17; 
 in the Kingdom of Afem . 9 Tis thoughts fays he, 
 
 that Gun-Powder and Cannon were found out in the 
 
 Kingdom 
 
x*4 
 
 Nuremberg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Kingdom of Alem, from whence the Invention was 
 communicated to Pegu, and from thence to China, 
 which is the Reafon why the Invention is ufually a- 
 * In his Itine- fcrihed to the Chinefe. * Leonard Rauwolf , a Phy- 
 rarium Orien- fician of Aafburg , who travelled in the Eaftern- 
 tls * Countries, and feems to incline to Gonzalez ' s 
 
 Opinion, endeavours to prove, that Gun- Powder 
 was known and ufed in the Time of Pliny , ground- 
 ing his Conjecture, but, I think, without any 
 Probability, on a Palfage in that ancient Author 
 f In his Hifto- concerning Salt - Peter. And f Girolamo della Corte> 
 ryof Verona. another chimerical ConjeCturer in this Point, 
 thinks he has Reafon to believe that Scipio found 
 great Guns and Carabines in Carthage , when he 
 $ About the § made himfelf Matter of that City. Count Ga- 
 Year of Rome J eazzo Gualdo Priorato , || fays, that thefe Machines 
 jj°InhisAc- were i nvente d, Anno 1012. Naucher in 1213. 
 count of the 'ff Anthony Cornazani , in 1330. §§ Cornelius 
 
 Imperial and Kemp , in 1 3 54, |]|| James Gautier or Gualterus y 
 
 4+"lnThe'ufe in r 3 8 °’ and ' 4 2 5 > according to the fe- 
 
 liBar. Cog- vera l Authors whom he cites. The moft common 
 lime. Opinion, which is followed by Poly dor e Virgil y 
 
 M InhisHif- Sabellicus, For cat el y Collenuccio y Gamer arius , and 
 Fri f e ~ fome of the above-mentioned Authors, is, that one 
 pin his Chro- Berthold Schwartz , a Francifcan Friar, who was a 
 nology. Lover of Chymiltry, was the Author of this 
 Invention at Nuremberg , Anno 1 3 7 8 . Others are 
 of the fame Opinion, as to the Time and 
 Place, but aferibe the Invention to one Con- 
 ftantine Ankelitzen y a profefled Chymilt •, and An- 
 thony Cornazani believes the Place was Cologn . 
 Cornelius Kemp , upon the Authority of Sebafiian 
 Munfter , and fome others, pretends that Cimofcus y 
 King of Frifeland y was the Inventer of thefe 
 Machines. Some call the Author of them Ber- 
 trand the Black , and lay, that he invented Gun- 
 Powder at Chioggia in the State of Venice . But 
 this feems to be only a Miitake, occafioned by 
 
Parti, to I T A L Y. Nuremberg. .125 
 
 the Refemblance of the Names Bertbold and 
 Bertrand , and the Signification of the Surname 
 Schwartz, which in the German Tongue fignifies 
 Black . I leave you to judge, whether ’tis pof~ 
 fible to reconcile fo many oppofite Opinions ; 
 but if the Controverfy was to be decided be- 
 twixt the Eaftern and tVeftern Part of the World* 
 the Pretenfions of both might perhaps be ea- 
 fily juftified ; and tho* it fhould be allowed, that 
 the Oriental Nations got the Start of us in 
 the Invention of Printing and Gun-Powder, 
 we might {till claim the Honour of the fame 
 Invention in Europe. For I fee no Reafon, why 
 it may not be fuppofed, that the fame Thought 
 may enter into the Mind of feveral Perfons who 
 had never the leaft Communication with one 
 another. 
 
 I cannot leave this Subject, without taking 
 Notice of the vulgar Miftake of thofe who ex- 
 claim againft this Invention as a diabolical and 
 pernicious Contrivance to deftroy the Lives of 
 Men. For, without entring upon an Enquiry, 
 which would extreamly lengthen my Digreffion, 
 which is already too long, I may venture to affirm 
 (what I could eafily demonftrate) that neither 
 Seiges nor Battles have been fo bloody, fince 
 Fire-Arms were invented, as they were in for- 
 mer Times when they fought Hand to Hand, 
 and almoft every Engagement ended in the Ruin 
 of one of the oppofite Armies. 
 
 Great Guns were firft put into Ships by the 
 Venetian Admiral Barhadigo ; and the famous Bar- 
 tholomew Coglione , was the firft who brought 
 Artillery into the Field : For before his Time, 
 the only Ufe they made of thefe Machines 
 was to batter the Walls of Towns. Mr di Fa - 
 hert, who lately publifhed the Hiftory of the 
 Dukes of Burgundy , allures us, that the firft 
 
126 
 
 Nuremberg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Eflay that was made of them was againft the 
 Fortrefs of Preux . 
 
 All Europe is full of the little Curiofities of 
 Nuremberg . There are fome of W ood , of Ivory, 
 of Alabafter, and even of Paper and Starch. 
 Their Houfes are large and neat, and I believe 
 there is not a Cieling in all the City, which 
 is not accompanied with a very fine Plafond 
 of Joyner’s- Work. I cannot exprefs the par- 
 ticular Kindnefs they have for Horns ; for all 
 their Houfes are full of them. They are every 
 where hung up amongfl Pictures, and other 
 curious Things. You often fee in the fineft 
 Chamber, a Stag’s, or Bull’s Head, with a 
 magnificent Pair of Horns hanging from the 
 Cieling, without any other Defign but for Or- 
 nament. 
 
 W e were poorly accommodated on all the 
 Road from Heidelberg ; and Straw was com- 
 monly our Bed : But we made ourfelves amends 
 at Nuremberg , where the Inns have very good 
 Accommodations. They ferved us every Day 
 with late Fruits ; which I never faw any 
 where elfe. We are here at the End of No - 
 member, and we commonly eat pretty good 
 Peaches. 
 
 St SEBALD is the principal Church. They 
 fhow therein a wooden Crucifix which pafteth 
 for a Mafter-piece ; ’tis that of the famous Al- 
 bert Purer : And the Tomb of St Sebald is alfo 
 a great and fine Work. The Church of St Lau- 
 rence, is the biggeft of all. They are both 
 Gothick , but the laft hath eight Doors, which 
 is looked upon as a Singularity. The great 
 Church-yard is worth feeing : There are in it a- 
 bove Three thoufand Tombs with Epitaphs, and 
 Coats of Arms wrought in Brafs. No Jews 
 are fuffered to live in the City, becaufe they 
 
 formerly 
 

 Part I. VITALY. Nuremberg. i ij 
 
 formerly poifoned the Fountains. They refide 
 
 in a Village not far off, and may, for a fmall 
 
 Piece of Money, come into the City, provided 
 
 they depart the fame Day. The Roman Catho - 
 
 licks are few in Number, and they have but 
 
 half a * Church, where they perform their Sen- * This is * 
 
 vice after the Lutherans are gone out. Thofe Commander/ 
 
 who are called Calvinifls , go a League from the of 
 
 City into the Marquifate of Onfpach *, and their 
 
 Children are baptized by the Lutherans , as at 
 
 Francfort . 
 
 There are feveral diftinguifhed Families, 
 who are honoured with the Title of Patrician ; 
 and they only are capable of exercifing the Office 
 of Magiftrates. The Roman Catbolicks are never 
 advanced to that Dignity, and even cannot en- 
 joy the Privileges of Burghers or Free- Citizens. 
 
 I know not what Eftienne PighiuS' means in his 
 Hercules , [p. 91.] where he fays, that at Nurem- 
 berg they have Corn an hundred and fifty Y ears old 
 in their Granaries : — ■- ■ ■ Granaria publica teftis fub - 
 limia , fpatio , murifque perampla *, granis varii 
 
 I generis plena £5? onufta *, in quibus etiam Frumenta 
 qua dam centum quinquaginta Annorum ajjervari fe- 
 I runt . 
 
 The Author of the State of the Empire re- 
 lates, that the Burghers of Nuremberg have a 
 Privilege to drown their Children. The Laws 
 of the XII Tables granted the fame Privilege 
 1 to the Romans : And I remember very well, that 
 I have read in Juftiniarf s Inftitutes, that the Pater- 
 familias has a Sovereign Right over the Life, 
 
 Death, Slavery, or Liberty of his Children, 
 
 born in lawful Wedlock : Summum jus vita 
 
 1 ac necis •, f terque Filium venundandi poteftatem : ^ The Child 
 But fuch arbitrary Pradlices are inconfiftent with was to be free 
 the Divine Laws, and are contrary to Nature, after his har- 
 If the Children deferve Death, are there not l ? s bc £!?. fo]<1 
 
 Courts 
 
 

 1 28 Ingqlstadt. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 Courts of Juftice to take Notice of the Fad ? 
 If they do not deferve it, by what Law, ex- 
 cept a diabolical one, do Fathers deftroy their 
 own Children ? 
 
 W e are preparing for our Departure to Mor- 
 row Morning, to continue our Journey to Auf- 
 lourg. I fhall write to you from thence, and 
 will omit no Opportunity to fhow how much 
 
 I am, 
 
 Nuremberg, Nov, 
 
 3 , 168 7* 
 
 S I Ry 
 
 Tours , &c. 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 1 N G O L« T) ETWEEN Nuremberg and Ingoljladt , the 
 STADT Jj Ways are very bad and full of Forefts ; but 
 Univerfity. w hen you come near this City, you find a Cham- 
 paign Country, excellently well tilled. Ingoljladt 
 is feated on the Danube , in the Duchy of Bavaria , 
 of which it is the ftrongeft Place. It is indiffe- 
 rently large, and moft Part of the Houfes are 
 painted or whited without. The Streets are broad, 
 ftraight, and well paved : And the whole City 
 feemed pleafant enough, tho* it is poor and ill 
 peopled. They boaft much of the Arfenal , but 
 they muff be fo much courted for a Sight of it, 
 that we would not take that Trouble. I have 
 obferved, that thefe inaccefiible Arfenals are com- 
 monly the worit furnifhed ; for if they were well 
 filled, they would make a publick Show of them, 
 rather than hide them. But they always make 
 a Myflery of them, when they have nothing to 
 
 fhow 
 
Part I. to I T A L Y. Newburg, 
 
 12cj 
 
 fhow but Crofs-Bows and rudy Firelocks. No- 
 thing is more eafily obtained, than a Sight of the 
 Arfenals in France \ and it is as true, that there 
 are none in the World either finer, or in better 
 Order. 
 
 I observed at Ingoldftat , as in many other 
 Cities in Germany , that every where near the 
 Fountains there are Cafks of W ood or Brafs, mount- 
 ed on little Sleds with four Wheels, which ferve 
 to carry Water when any Fire happens *, and this 
 is very wifely contrived : But they have another 
 Cuftom throughout all this Country, which we 
 thought much more troublefome than ufeful. 
 
 There are certain Singers in the Night, who trot 
 about every, Hour: They give Notice to beware 
 of Fire, and afterwards exhort People to fleep 
 quietly, without confidering that their horrid 
 Mufick keeps all the City awake. 
 
 W e came from Ingolftadt to Newburgh which NEWBURG.' 
 is a very * little Town, and without Fortifica- * 9 al ' 9 ual * 
 tions. It (lands on the right Bank of the Danube , thldtcontafns 
 which is already grown broad and rapid ; tho’ at 4 ooo Inhabit 
 this Place it is ' very far didant from it’s main tants* 
 Strength. We pad over a Bridge to go up into 
 the City ; and at our Entry we had a View of the 
 Cadle, which is feated on a Rock. Though it 
 has no Ornaments on the Out-fide, it makes a 
 pretty Appearance. Within there are large A- 
 partments on the lame Floor, which are very con- 
 venient. But the Eleftor Palatine , to whom this 
 Duchy belongs, was forced to fend all the Furni- 
 ture of this Cadle to that of Heidelberg , which 
 was disfurnifhed, as I have already told you ; 
 
 There remains only one Cabinet, which is full of 
 Pidlures and other Curiofities •, which we had not 
 Time to examine particularly. I remember I 
 obferved a round Piece of very hard Stone, 
 which weighs four Pounds, and was found in 
 Vol. I. K the 
 
n 0 
 
 Newburg, A New V oyage Vol. I 
 
 the Body of a Horfe : I believe we might juftly 
 call this Stone a Kind of Bezoar , fmce according 
 to the Report of Tavernier , and others, the 
 Bezoar is found in the Paunches of Cows 9 Apes, 
 and fome other Animals , as well as in thofe of 
 Goats. 
 
 The Church of the Jefuits is the Faireft in the 
 City ; but there is a pleafant Thing to be feen in 
 that of St Peter. Mark d'Aviano , a Capuchin, 
 famous for the Miracles which are attributed to 
 him, was a tNewburg, thirty five Years ago. As 
 he went into St Peter's Church, he perceived in a 
 Corner an old No(lr edame of Wood ; which was 
 all mangled, and covered over with Duft. The 
 zealous Father could not without Grief behold 
 our Lady in fo unbecoming a Condition. He 
 proftrated himfelf before her, and began to 
 thump his Bread:, and to break out into Lamen- 
 tations. As he was in the Midft of his Groans, 
 he fuddenly cried out, Miracle ! and protefted, 
 that the good Lady had moved her Eyes, and 
 looked on him. It happened, that there were 
 leveral Old Women in the Church, who ran 
 together at the Cries of the Capuchin , and with 
 Joy embraced the Occafion, that they were able 
 to fay, they had been WitnefTes of a Miracle. 
 There was no Need of many Arguments to con- 
 vince them j for they all cried out with the Ga~ 
 puchin, that our Lady had looked upon him. 
 Immediately he went out with them, and filled all 
 the City with the Noife of the pretended Mira- 
 cle. He was fupported by the great Ones, and 
 alter certain Preambles, which 5 tis needlefs to 
 relate, they went to St Peter's in Proceffion : 
 They cleaned the Statue, took the Sacrament 
 off the great Altar, which was dedicated to it, 
 dreffed our Lady in a fplendid Habit, and placed 
 her on that Altar, where ihe works Miracles by 
 
 Millions. 
 

 Hxe JLadi / of ^ewbtLrqh 
 
 Plate 2 Volt 1 .p ijo. 
 
 i 
 
■ ' 
 
 Part I.' /o ITALY. Augsburg. 131 
 
 Millions. Both Princes and private Perfons load 
 her with Prefents *, and People come from all 
 Parts in Pilgrimage to her. 
 
 The Country is extreamly pleafant and very A U G S- 
 
 Urg ; except B U R G, an 
 where the 
 
 Lands are boggy and barren. Thofe of Augf- Gua/do Pr. 
 burg pretend that their City is the faireft of all pretends, that 
 Germany ; They fay alio, that it is greater than it: w . as ^ ulIt 
 Nuremberg ; but confefs that it is not lb well peo- Dduge ^ 
 pled. It was formerly very populous, when it But he does 
 enjoyed a flourifhing Trade, and before it was not prove it. 
 depopulated by War and Peftilence. One of the Such Sorts of 
 Magiftrates informed me, that it appears by the lenhomare [n- 
 publick Regifters, that in the Year 1 549 there tolerable. The 
 were 1705 Children chriftened in this City, and City (formerly 
 that the Burials amounted to 1227. Sir Will. Petty Z y lzer n S } L was 
 writes, that there were 2263 Burials at Dublin in ^077,1132. 
 1682 ; but at the fame Time, he obferves, that and in 1183. 
 kwas a fickly Year. You may compare thefe Lacitus calls it 
 Accounts, and confider what Inferences may be 
 drawn from them. Only you muft not be fur- vinci^Cofo- 
 prifed, that the Number of Chriftenings exceeds nia. It has 
 that of Burials at Augjburg , contrary to what you 
 are accuftomed to obferve at London ; for you t at jo n s Gualdo 
 know that many Perfons die in the latter of thefe affirms, that 
 Cities who were not baptized in it, and even it*s Circumfe- 
 fome who were never baptized. Tho* the Streets a ™^ nts 
 are broader and ftraighter than at Nuremberg , ’tis meiricalPaces* 
 certain, that generally the Houfes are not fo fine ; that it contains 
 they are commonly plaiftered and whited with- no more than 
 out, or adorned with Paintings : But I law very *5°rol n habi- 
 few of Free-ltone. The Floors of the Cham- it’s ^Revenue at 
 bers are commonly paved with a certain yel- ccnfiits of a - 
 lowilh Marble, which is brought from Tircl\ and bout . z °°ooo 
 the Cielings are either of Joyners Work, in Com- 
 partiments, or of a certain Cement, which po- 
 lices very well, and is very durable. But there' 
 
 K 2 is 
 
 fertile, between Newburg and Augfb 
 when you draw near to the latter. 
 
132 
 
 The Eifhop of 
 Augsburg is 
 Suffragan to 
 the Archbi- 
 fhopof Mentz. 
 He is elefted 
 by the Chap- 
 ter, which 
 confilts of For- 
 ty Canons. 
 
 ■f There are 
 fome Roman 
 Infcriptions i 
 the Church < 
 St Ulric . 
 
 Augsburg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 it is one great Irregularity in all their Manner of 
 Building. The greateft Part of their Chambers 
 are formed into Figures, which have no Name, 
 and are alfo fpoiled by the ill placing of the. 
 Stair-cafes, which take away great Corners of 
 them. 
 
 AUGSBURG is the Capital City of Suabia. 
 You know Augujius fent a Colony thither, after 
 he had much enlarged and embellifhed it : It 
 was called, Augufta Vindelicorum , to diflinguifh it 
 from Augufta Trevirorum , Augufta T aurinorum , 
 and other Cities, which alfo bore the Name of 
 Augufta. I obferved fomewhere among the Pain- 
 tings of the Houfes, an Anagram of Augufta 
 Vindelicorum , which is Orta Ded vulgum vincis. 
 The People of this Country were called * Vinde- 
 hciy of old time, becaufe they inhabited about the 
 Rivers Vindo and Licus , which at prefent are called 
 JVerda and Leek *, between which the City of 
 Augfburg is feated. It has been pillaged fo often, 
 particularly in the Time of Attildy that there are 
 hardly any Remains of it’s f Antiquities to be 
 found. Some Time ago they dug up a Pillar five 
 1 or fix Foot high, on the Top of which was the 
 Figure of a Pine- Apple. There was alfo found 
 fome Medals of Augujius , on the Reverfe of 
 which the like Pillar is to be feen. As it was 
 the ufual Cuftom to mark out by fome Bounds, 
 the Increafe of the Empire, on the Frontiers of 
 the conquered Countries, and to join to thofe 
 Limits fome Reprefentations of fuch Things as 
 were moft common in the new Provinces ; it 
 
 is 
 
 '* Pergis ad Auguftam, quam Vindo Licufque fluentat. 
 
 Refpicit & late fluvios Vindonque L'cumque 
 Miioentes undas, & nomina littoris ; unde 
 Antiquam Gentem, Populumque, Urbemque, vocarunt 
 Vindelicam. Ricchardus . 
 
Part I. VITALY. AugsbiTrg. 
 
 is very probable, that this was the Ufe of the 
 Pillar I juft now mentioned, and of the Pine- 
 . Apple on the Top of it ; for all this Part of Ger- 
 many is full of Pines and Firr-Trees. There is 
 alfo a great deal of Appearance, that for this Rea- 
 lon Augjbarg bears a Pine- Apple in it’s Arms. 
 
 Tho’ there is hardly any Thing good or re- 
 gular in the Fortifications of this Town, it has 
 fometimes fuftained very rude Affaults with 
 much Vigour. It is now near feventy Years 
 fince the Swedes and French befieged it, and dif- 
 treffed it by Famine *, without being able to take 
 it. *Tis an imperial City * the Senators are half 
 Lutherans , and half Roman Catholicks ; Such Of- 
 fices as are only pofTeft by one Perfon at a Time, 
 are, by Turns, enjoyed by the Proteftants and 
 Roman Catholicks . But the Senate is not the foie 
 Mafter of the State ; five or fix Sovereigns fliare 
 it among them. A good Part of it belongs to 
 the Bifhop : Almoft all the Territory is in his 
 Demefne : and he hath his Palace in the City, 
 though he refides at Dillingen , where alfo the 
 Univerfity is. You know that all the Bifhops of 
 the Empire are temporal Princes in their Dio 
 ceffes •, except thofe of the hereditary Countries 
 of the Houfe of Auftria . 
 
 The Roman Catholicks here make publick Pro- 
 ceffions, and carry the Hoft publicldy *, and the 
 Lutherans commonly pull off their Hats, when 
 they cannot avoid meeting it. 
 
 Both Parties do what they can poffiby, to a- 
 void giving Offence to one another. The Poor 
 of both Religions are put into the fame Plofpitals, 
 and are there afliftedby their own Minifters with- 
 out any Oppofition. 
 
 The Jews live above a League from the City ; 
 they are obliged to pay, when they refort thi- 
 
134 Augsburg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 ther, a Florin per Hour, which is a Piece of Mo- 
 ney worth about three Shillings Englijh . 
 
 * *Twas here The * Town-houfe is a large four-fquare Buil- 
 that Ferdinand ding, of very fair hewn Stone* The Portal is 
 was !?k<> of Marble, and alriioft all the Rooms are wainf- 
 
 ficent. It is One hundred and ten Foot long, 
 fifty eight broad, and fifty two Foot high *, the 
 Pavement is of ajafper Marble. The Walls are 
 covered with Paintings, between which there 
 are many Devices and Emblems, which relate 
 to the Government *, but the Cieling excels all 
 the reft in Beauty. It confifcs of Copartments, 
 the Squares and Pannels of which are inriched 
 with gilded Sculptures, and filled with Pi&ures 
 and other Ornaments. And all this is mighty 
 well ordered and performed. 
 
 The Arfenal is very large. The two Halls 
 below are full of Canon ; of which the great- 
 efl Part are Brafs. There is a Culverin of 
 Leather Twenty fix Foot long, which is a fix 
 Pounder. The upper Stories are filled with good 
 Arms. 
 
 During the Wars of the neighbouring Princes 
 in this laft Age, the People of Augsburg were 
 careful to fhut the Gates of their City early at 
 Nights*, which Cultom was troublefome to Stran- 
 gers, as well as to themfelves. Wherefore they 
 invented a kind of fecret Gate, by which there 
 was a PafTage to come in, without Fear of Sur- 
 prize or other Danger. This Gate remains {till 
 with all ids Springs and Machines, and is a very 
 particular Contrivance. I have drawn a Defign 
 of it, which I could fhew you, but the Defcrip- 
 tion would at prefen t be too difficult and tedious. 
 
 fen King of the 
 Roman*. Heifs. 
 
 cotted and del’d with Afh of Poland ; which is 
 very fine. The great Flail is extreamly Magni- 
 
 T he 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Augsburg. 13 5 
 
 The Trade of Augsburg mightily decayed, as 
 that of Holland increafed. Alrnoft all Merchandizes 
 which came from the Mediterranean , were for- 
 merly landed at Venice ^ and from thence brought 
 to Augsburg *, from which Place they were dif- 
 ptrfed thro* all Germany, Bu t Holland hath taken 
 away all now, and diftributes all : And Augsburg 
 fuffers as well as Venice , Milan , Antwerp , and an 
 infinite Number of other Cities •, which are at 
 prefent as poor as they were formerly rich. 
 
 Three Years after Guftavus the Great had 
 made himfell Matter of Augsburg , it was retaken 
 by the Duke of Bavaria , who took away all the 
 Churches from the Lutherans •, in which Cafe they 
 remained from the Year Thirty-five, till Forty- 
 eight, at which Time all things were reftored by 
 the Peace of Munfter . During this Interval, the 
 Lutherans had no Liberty to affemble but in a Col- 
 lege; from the Window of which the Minifler 
 preached to the People in the Court-yard. This 
 College is ftill in their Pofieflion *, and I have feen 
 a longlnfcription, which is graved under the Win- 
 dow, and begins thus: Prceclufis omnibus Evange- 
 licorum Lemplis , caelum tamen ipjis patuit , &c. All 
 the Churches of the Profeffors of the Gofpel being Jhut y 
 Heaven was yet open to them , &c. 
 
 You may fee in the Bifhop’s Palace, the 
 Chamber where the famous Confeflion of Augs- 
 burg was § prefented to the Emperor Charles V. j j n t h e Year 
 From thence we went to the Cathedral, where 1530, by Me- 
 there is a Gate of Brafs, over which many Places ^ ri ^hon and 
 of the facred Hiftory are represented in Bajfo reli- peahen drew 
 evo, and they made us obferve in the Hiftory of it up. 
 the Creation, that it was the Virgin Mary who 
 created Eve , and formed her out of one of 
 Ada?rf s Ribs. 
 
 They are no lefs ingenious at Augsburg , than 
 at Nuremberg •, and even they excel particularly 
 K 4 in 
 
Thefe Glaffes 
 are in my 
 
 Hands* 
 
 Augsburg. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 in Clock-making and GoldfmithVwork, and in 
 Works of Ivory. We faw feveral Clocks which 
 were valued at fifteen or twenty thoufand Crowns. 
 They put them in Cafes that are very richly 
 wrought : And befides what relates to the Mo- 
 tion of the Stars, and the Divifion of the Times 
 and Seafons, they adorn them with many ether 
 things, which would be both pleafant and pro- 
 fitable, if they were a little more lading. 
 
 Their Way of turning in Ivory is very cur 
 nous, and deferves to be taken Notice of with 
 Admiration. But one of the rarefl Works of 
 that Kind I ever faw, I final! give you an Account 
 of : They are Glaffes made hollow, and well* 
 fhaped, with a Ring made of the fame Piece in 
 Turning, which plays between the Bottom and 
 the Body of the Glafs, and cannot be taken off. 
 There are an Hundred with their Rings in a 
 Grain of Pepper of an ordinary Size. I often 
 examined this little Miracle of Art with a good 
 Microfcope, and obferved the 
 Stripes and Traces of the Tool 
 with which they are turned ; fo 
 ^that I found no Secret in it, but 
 -that it was the pure Work of 
 the Eyes and the Hand. 
 
 They have here another Bauble, Fleas faftned 
 by the Neck with Chains of Steel. This Chain 
 is fo fine, that though it be near a Span long, 
 the Flea will lift it up when it leaps. The Ani- 
 mal, Chain and all is fold for Ten-pence. 
 
 The Variety of Habits, and Difference of their 
 Colours, is greater here, I think, than at Nu- 
 remberg. This is regulated by the Civil Magi- 
 ftrate, and you may know the Quality and Re- 
 ligion of the greateft Part of the Women, by the 
 Difference of their Clothes. I will only repre- 
 sent to you the Manner after which the Widow 
 
 of 
 
*37 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Augsburg. 
 
 of a Romvn Catholick Merchant wears Mourning 
 for her Hufband. She hath a Sort of Kerchief of 
 the fined Linen, very well whited and darched, 
 with it’s ordinary W ings, for this Drefs : A black 
 Petticoat, and a black Cloak, made like that of 
 a Man, which comes to her Knees. A great 
 white Veil behind, which hangs at the Tail of 
 the Kerchief, down to her Heels, enlarging it 
 felf by Degrees ; a Piece of the fame Linen with 
 the faid Kerchief, four Foot long, and at lead 
 two broad, which is very much darched and 
 dretched on a Square of wire Thread, fadned by 
 the Middle of one of it’s Ends, jud below the 
 Lips, and covers all the fore-part of the Body. 
 
 They have turned a little Branch of the River 
 Leek , and made it pafs through the Town ; the 
 Water is fo clear and good, that they need feek 
 for no other *, there are four or five Towers up- 
 on this Arm of the River, on the Tops of which 
 they have made Ponds, and the Mills which are 
 below caufe Pumps to play, which raife the 
 Water, and fill thofe Ponds or Ciderns, from 
 whence it is didributed throughout all the City. 
 I mud not forget to mention the Fountains of 
 Augsburg , which are one of it’s principal Orna- 
 ments. There are many of them which are al- 
 mod as magnificent as the fine Fountain at Nu- 
 remberg* 
 
 Augsburg , 
 Dec. 2. 1687. 
 
 I am , 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Tour , &c* 
 
 LETTER 
 
138 
 
 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 SIR , 
 
 I OBSERVED at my going out of Augsburg , 
 in many Gardens, that they cover all their 
 Vines and Fig-Trees carefully, with Straw or 
 Mats, to prefer ve them from the Fro ft ; the 
 Cold being fharper in this Country than in 
 England j where we are not obliged to make Ufe 
 of thefe Precautions, though we lie nearer the 
 North. It is certainly true, that the Diverfe de- 
 grees of Heat and Cold, are not always pro- 
 portioned to the Diverfity of Climates : There 
 are terrible Winters in Canada in the Midft of 
 that temperate Zone ; whereas almoft every 
 where elfe, under the fame Climate, they enjoy 
 a fweet and pleafant Air. 
 
 MUNICH, The Country is pretty level between Augs- 
 thc Capital Ci- burg and Munich , but the Soil is not very good ; 
 ty of Bavaria* there is every where a Mixture of Wood and 
 Fields,' and Firr-Trees. Munich is not above 
 half fo big as Augsburg, It is a pretty fine City, 
 but ill fortified, and has no Trade ^ and without 
 Doubt very little Notice would be taken of this 
 Place, were it not for the Refidence of the Ele- 
 ctor whofe Palace is, in general, very magni- 
 ficent. Almoft all the Houfes of the City are 
 painted on the Outfide, but inftead of painting 
 in Frefco , or in Oyl, they make Ufe of a kind 
 of bad Water-colour, which is liable to all the 
 Injuries of the Weather: It wears off quickly, 
 and riles hollow in many Places, which maims 
 all the Figures, and makes a very ugly Sight. 
 
 We 
 
139 
 
 Part I. to ITALY. Munich. 
 
 W e had heard fome Perfons fo much commend 
 the Jefuits Library, that it was the firft thing we 
 went to fee when we came to Munich *, but it did 
 not anfwer our Expectations. For befides thar, the 
 Collection is neither numerous, nor in very good 
 Condition *, they ordered a Brother Cut-Cabbage , 
 who knew better what belonged to the Kitchin 
 than to Books, to fhew it us. I confefs I could 
 not believe fuch grofs Ignorance could lurk un- 
 der the Habit of one who called himfelf a Jefuit. 
 It was abfolutely impofiible for us to make him 
 under ftand, what thofe Authors were whom we 
 called The Fathers. He prefently named all the 
 Fathers of his Convent, to try if he could find 
 out whom we looked for. And at laft, with a 
 fcowling Look, he prayed us to talk of fome- 
 thing elfe. This is all I can tell you of the Li- 
 brary, and the Library-keeper, or at leaft of his 
 Deputy : For it is not probable that all the reft 
 of this Society are of the fame Stamp. How- 
 ever it be, they wear four fair and high Corners in 
 their Caps, whereas in France they dare not 
 wear more than three ; and their Houfe may be 
 faid to be a ftately Palace. Their Church is alfo 
 extreamly fine *, it confifts of one Nave or Bo- 
 dy, very high, and broad, and ftrongly roofed : 
 The Veftry is full of Riches, and they want no 
 Relicks. They fhewed us a Vertebra , or Joint 
 of the Back bone, as big as that of an Elephant, 
 or fome huge Animal •, and this great Bone, as 
 we were informed, is in great Veneration with 
 them, as being one of the Vertebrce of the huge 
 St Chriflopher. 
 
 Leaving the Church of the Jefuits, we went 
 to that of the Augufiines ; where there are Pictures 
 of great Value. 
 
 W e went thence to the Cajetans , who have a 
 great and fair Church. I obferved in a Map of 
 
 Munich , 
 
4i o 
 
 This City was 
 built in the 
 Year 962, by 
 Duke Henry. 
 Otbo inclofed 
 it with Walls, 
 in 1 157. 
 
 * Monachus 
 pailis ulnis : 
 Bextra juran- 
 tis fpeciem ha- 
 beas, Laeva li- 
 brum tenens. 
 
 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Munich , that this City bears a Monk for it’s 
 * Arms, and that it is called Monachum , or Mona- 
 chum , becaufe there was a Monaftery on the 
 Place where it is built. We alfo went to fee in 
 the Church of Noftre Dame , the Tomb of the 
 Emperor Lewis IV. This Sepulchre is adorned 
 with many fine marble and brafs Figures. Hav- 
 ing advanced ten or twelve Steps from the En- 
 trance of the great Door of this Church, you 
 behold one of the Stones of the Pavement, on 
 which is a double Crofs ; and it hath been ob- 
 ferved, that when you (land upright in this 
 Place, the Pillars of the Church are fo placed, 
 that you cannot fee one of the Windows, tho’ 
 they are very numerous. All that come to wor- 
 fh ip in thofe Churches have a lighted Wax- 
 Candle in their Hands even in the Day-time ; 
 and that Candle is bigger or ieffer, according 
 to the Quality of the Saint, or the Bignefs of 
 the Devotion. 
 
 The Outfide of the Eledlor’s Palace is not 
 fuitable to the Magnificence within * and though 
 the greateft Range of it’s Apartments are well 
 contrived, it may be faid, that they are irre- 
 gular if we take them altogether : The Reafon 
 is, that this great Mafs of Building was not 
 eredled at the fame Time •, every one built ac- 
 cording to the Tafte of the Time, or the Archi- 
 tect’s 
 
 There is an ample and exadt Dcfcription of this Palace writ- 
 ten in Italian , by the Marquefs Ran. Pallavicino . This Royal 
 Houfe contains, faith he, eleven Courts, twenty great Halls, 
 nineteen Galleries, Two thoufand fix hundred great glafs Win- 
 dows, fix Chapels, fixteen great Kitchens, and twelve large 
 Cellars, forty vaft Apartments, which are all even, not one of 
 them being lower than another, and in which you may diilin- 
 guifli Three hundred great Chambers, richly painted, vvainfcot- 
 ted, paved, furnilhed, be. In the Middle of the Front erf the 
 Palace that looks to the Street, there is a Statue of the Virgin, 
 with theie Words written under it, Patrona Bajoariae, fub tuum 
 pras-idium confugimus, fub quo fecuri laetique degimus. 
 
Part I. VITALY, Munich. 141 
 
 tedl’s private Fancy *, and that hath been the Caufe 
 of the Difproportion of it’s Parts : But if it be 
 furveyed feparately, it may certainly pafs for a 
 very beautiful Structure. You muft not expe< 5 t, 
 that I fhould give you an ample Defcription of 
 a Place that is fo vaft, and lb full of Rarities. 
 
 And therefore I lhall content myfelf with aft 
 Turing you, in general, that all Sorts of Beauties 
 and Riches are found there in Abundance. The 
 great Hall of the Emperor’s Apartment, which 
 was burnt about 37 or 38 Years ago, is One 
 hundred and eighteen Foot in Length, and fifty 
 two in Breadth. We may juftly lay, that it is 
 in every Refpebt magnificent. All the Paintings 
 are highly efteemed : They are Hiftories, the Sa- 
 cred on one Side, and the Profane on the other ; 
 with Latin Verfes to every of thofe Hiftories. 
 
 I will fet down the Diftich for Sufanna % becaufe 
 I think it one of the belt : 
 
 Cajla Sufanna placet ; Lucretia cede Sufanncz ; 
 
 Lu poft^ Ilia mori maluit ante fcelus . 
 
 * The little Chapel which is in the Apart- * The Infcrip^ 
 ment of the Eleblorefs, is full of precious Things : 
 
 There is nothing to be feen but Gold, Pearls, thus . d.o.M 
 and Gems of all Fafhions. They keep a great adcukumVir- 
 many Relicks there * among which I took No- ginum Princi- 
 tice of a Piece of gold Mohair, which, they fay, pis ’. ^ tatae . 
 was Part of one of the Virgin’s Gowns. How 
 could any one imagine fuch a Thing ? I will geniti, gignen- 
 take Notice too, in Favour of the Pilgrims , Sacrum 
 of a Piece of one of the faid Virgin Marf s dlcatum - 
 Smocks: The Right-hand of St John Baptift : 
 
 Some Clots of the Blood of Jefus Chrift . Luke 
 
 xxii. 44. And a Stone that fweats upon every 
 Gocd-Friday . 
 
 The 
 
14 * 
 
 * The greateft 
 Part of thefe 
 antique Pieces 
 were brought 
 from Rome. 
 
 A Sum per- 
 haps a little 
 magnified. 
 Thefe People 
 probably, rec- 
 kon what the 
 Things were 
 worth when 
 they were 
 new. 
 
 + The r e Gal- 
 leries are of 
 the lame 
 Height with 
 thehrftStories, 
 and Coaches 
 drive under 
 them. 
 
 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 The Hall of Perfpe6tives is one of the fined 
 Things of this Palace : But the other called of * 
 Antiques is large and famous ; it is near a hundred 
 Foot long* and forty broad. I counted One 
 hundred fourfcore and twelve Bufts, and above 
 Four hundred other Pieces : All thefe are choice 
 and rare, for the Beauty of their Workmanfnip, 
 as well as their Antiquity. The greateft Part of 
 the Furniture of this Palace is very rich *, and 
 they affirm, that there is as much Tapeftry in 
 the Wardrobe, as is, or has been, worth Three 
 Millions of Livres *, befides what is in ordinary 
 Ufe. But ftill the Treafury infinitely exceeds all 
 the reft. There is a great Quantity of Plate of 
 Gold, and many precious Veifels. A prodigious 
 Number of great Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, 
 and other oriental Stones of exquifite Beauty ; 
 and a vaft Acceffion of excellent Paintings, cu- ; , 
 rious Works, Medals, and fuch other Rarities. I 
 muft not forget the Cherry-ftone, upon which 
 you may diftin&ly perceive One hundred and 
 forty Heads carved *, nor the Gondola of Palm- 
 wood turned into Stone, on which they have in- 
 fcribed thefe two Yerfes: 
 
 Palma fui , ccepi lapidefcere , cymbula nunc fum *, 
 
 Si non Nepunus navita Bacchus erit . 
 
 Marble is to be found every where in this 
 Palace, yet we muft not deceive ourfelves *, for 
 they have the Secret to make a certain Compo- 
 fition, which becomes fo hard, and polifhes fo 
 well, that thole who are not very fkilful, take it 
 for true Marble. 
 
 They have made divers Galleries of Com- 
 munication, which crofs the Streets and Houfes *, 
 by which they can go privately from the Palace 
 to all the Churches and Convents of the City. 
 
 I WILL 
 

 Parti. ^ ITALY. Munich. 143 
 
 I will fay nothing of the Arfenal, becaufe 
 they have carried the Cannon, and moft of the 
 belt Arms into Hungary . We faw there the 
 Tent of the Grand Vizier , which was taken in 
 the laft Battel, in which the Eledlor did fo re- 
 markably fignalize his Valour. This Tent was 
 vaftly large, but not very fine. It is made of 
 printed Callicoe with Stripes, as they feem to 
 me, of Sattin, covered with Silk Embroidery. 
 
 They made us take Notice of a Figure of a Trout, 
 that weighed feventy three Pounds, which was 
 caught in a neighbouring Lake. 
 
 I cannot tell you, why this Country is not 
 proper for Vines ; there are none in it, and their 
 ordinary Drink is Beer. 
 
 They know no other Religion here but that 
 of Rome : And they look upon Men as a Loup- 
 garous , that are not of that Profefiion. Their 
 principal Devotion is for the Virgin : She is 
 painted on all their Houfes ; every Place is full 
 of her Chapels and Oratories, and none but di- 
 vine Titles are bellowed on her. 
 
 After I had finifhed my Letter, laft Night 
 very late, I found that I was mifinformed, as to 
 the Time of the Polls going away. So that I 
 have Leifure to entertain you with a particular 
 Account of fome Things that were either omitted, 
 or very haftily touched in my Letter. I wifh I 
 could give you a diftindt View of all the Beau- 
 ties of that magnificent Hall in the Emperor's 
 Apartment. But fince fuch an Undertaking 
 would require a Volume, I fhall only add, that 
 among the divers Ornaments of the Chimney, 
 we took Notice of an admirable Statue of Por- 
 phyry, which reprefents Virtue , holding a Lance 
 in her Right-hand, and a Palm Branch gilt in 
 her Left. Since I gave you the Diftich for 
 Sufanna , and have Time to tranfcribe the reft, 
 
 I*m 
 
Munich. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 I’m refolved to fend you them all. They are in 
 the fame Hall. 
 
 For Ejlher- 
 
 Exanimata cadit cbaris pro embus Hefter , 
 
 Qua cafura magis , ni cecidiffet , erat. 
 
 . For Judas Maccabceus . 
 
 In caput unius totus licet incubet Orbis ; 
 
 Nil, Judce -virtu s fortior Orbe , timet * 
 
 For the young David. 
 
 Davidis immanem dejecit dextra Gigantem : 
 
 Quid non Vir faciet , ft facit ifia Puer. 
 
 For Judith. 
 
 Hoc Ducis Affyrii caput eji: Juditha recidit : 
 Sobria mens vincit *, Ebria vitta jacet. 
 
 For Samfon. 
 
 Samfon Jum, tot as qui Jlravi dente Phalanges i 
 Me ftravit tonfis una Puella comis . 
 
 For Jahel. 
 
 Ilia ego quee Siferee ierebravi tempora clavo : 
 Quod non eh aufus Vir , fuit aufa Jahel. 
 
 For Mofes . 
 
 Scriptas diclavi Mofes d Numine Leges ; 
 
 Leges quee vitce funt proba norma tuce. 
 
 I need not repeat the Diftich for Sufannah * 
 
part I. to ITALY. Munich. 
 
 * 4 $ 
 
 On the other Side of the Flail. 
 
 For Coriolanus’s Mother, or for Coriolanus himfelf. 
 
 Da Patrice vitam, quam a te, Veturia y pofco *, 
 Quam mibi, quamque tibi , P atria char a dedit . 
 
 For Horatius Codes. 
 
 Qiad traditis , Reges, in prcplia rnille cohortes ? 
 Unus pro toto fujficit orbe Codes. 
 
 For Lucretia. 
 
 Accipe , quid dubitas ? intada Lucretia , ferrum ; 
 Morte premi nulla fama fimjira pet eft. 
 
 For M. Val . Corvinus. 
 
 Expugnata Tibi , Corvine , eft Celtica virtus % 
 
 Sed duo viciftis : divide , vidor , opes. 
 
 For Tomyris. 
 
 Regis Achcemenii , Tomyris , cervice refed& % 
 Immersdque utri, dixit , hirudo, bibe. 
 
 For Hercules . 
 
 Alcides ego fum •, 000 potuere Gigantes , 
 
 jVcw Cesium vincere , wtf Amor* 
 
 For Penthifilea. 
 
 Penthifilea furens mediis in millibus ardet ; 
 
 Concidit ilia tamen Penthifilea furens. 
 
 Vol. I. L For 
 
Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 For Lycurgus. 
 
 Si tua texijfet Lex aqua, Lycurge , pudorem , 
 Lex tua non alia Lege tegenda foret. 
 
 The Plafond or Cieling of the Hall confifts 
 of large gilt Compartments, enriched with Pi- 
 ctures, by the Hand of Candi. 
 
 The great Gallery is 270 Foot long, and fif- 
 teen broad. ’Tis adorned with Bajfo Relievo' s, and 
 fine Paintings, among which are the Pictures 
 and Names of thirty fix Princes, Anceftors of the 
 prefent EieCtor *, and feveral Maps and Reprefen- 
 tations of the Provinces, Cities, and principal 
 Rivers of his Dominions. 
 
 There is another Gallery 63 Foot long, and 
 18 broad, magnificently hung, and full of Paint- 
 ings too, which for the moft Part reprefent the 
 Hiftories of the Princes and Princeffes of this 
 Houle. At the End of this Gallery is a little 
 Chamber that looks into a Flower-Garden, and 
 is called the Cabinet of Rofes and Lilies . This is 
 
 a charming Place ; and all the Paintings with 
 which it is adorned, relate to the moft innocent 
 and tender Pleafures of Life. 
 
 The large Room, which is called the Hall of 
 Audience , is very much enriched with various 
 Ornaments. This is the Place where Embaf- 
 fadors are received *, and J tis alfo a kind of Tri- 
 bunal, where the Princes hear the Complaints 
 of their Subjects. The Ceremonies that are 
 obferved by foreign Princes, in giving Au- 
 diences to the Minifters of their Allies, are 
 reprefented in eight large Pictures, in round 
 and oval Compartments. There are alfo fe- 
 veral Hiftories of Sovereigns, who were wont to 
 adminifter Juftice in Perfon, and looked upon it 
 
Part L /i) ITALY, Munich. 
 
 as an indifpenfable Duty, of thofe who are in- 
 trdted with the Government of a State, to re- 
 drefs die Grievances of their Subjedts, Thefe 
 Hiltories are accompanied with Hieroglyphic 
 Figures, Emblems and Devices, moil of which 
 I noted in my Table-book, but in fo confufed a 
 Manner, that 1 mult content myfelf with tran- 
 fcribing three of the moft remarkable. The firft 
 is a Sun, which equally warms and enlightens a 
 magnificent Palace, and a mean Cottage, with 
 this Infcription, Omnibus Idem. The fecond a 
 Looking-glafs, with thefe Words, Videt , indevi - 
 detur. And the third a Level, with this Motto, 
 / Metitur & cequat* In feveral Places of the fame 
 Room, I obferved the following Sentences : 
 
 Polk at audit u , qui pollet Imperio . 
 
 * * 
 
 Cura aures tuas patere querelis omnium . 
 
 * * 
 
 Plus vident oculi quam oculus . 
 
 * * 
 
 * Jus unicuique fuum tribue: 
 
 * * 
 
 Rex fedens in folio diffipat omne malum. 
 
 * * 
 
 Non oportet quemquam a fennone Principis trifiem 
 difcedere . * * 
 
 *f Si non vis audire, nec regnes . 
 
 * * 
 
 || Omnibus jura pofcentibus faciles auditus pandite . 
 
 * * 
 
 § Non ideo Imperator fum , ut Arculd includar, 
 
 * * 
 
 Aufculta querelas Pauper um^ & fatage , ut ve 
 ritatem intelligas. 
 
 * The Words 
 of Cambyfes. 
 
 + The Words 
 of a poor Wo- 
 man to Philip . 
 || The Words 
 of Conjlantin. 
 
 § The Words 
 of the Empe- 
 ror Rudolph us. 
 ffTheWord* 
 of St Lewis, 
 
 L 2 
 
 I WISH 
 
I4§ 
 
 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 I wish they had added in Letters of Gold, 
 
 SALUS POPULI SUPREMA LEX 
 
 Among the various Embellifhments of the , 
 Apartments of this lfately Palace, there are fe- j 
 veral other Infcriptions and Emblems on all Sorts i 
 of Subjects. 
 
 I gave you an Account laft Night of the Ele- 
 dtorefs’s little Chapel ; and 1 fhall take this Occa- 
 fion to add, that the large one where the ordinary 
 Service is performed, is alfo of a finifhed Beauty. 
 There are fe- 5 Tis adorned with feveral Bajfo Relievo’s, repre- 
 veral others, fenting Hiftories that are proper for a Place ap- 
 pointed for the Service of God. This Chapel is 
 dedicated to the Virgin, with this Infcription : 
 
 VIRGIN I, EL MUNDI MONARCHAL, 
 
 Salutis Aurora , 
 
 Miraculo concept ce, miraculo concepturce , 
 
 Hanc cedem pofuit , Clientum infimus , 
 
 MAX. CO. PAL . RHEN. BOJ DRUM DUX: 
 Anno ab ejufdem Virginis partu , 
 
 M.DC.I. 
 
 The Treafury is fo very rich and magnificent, 
 that I cannot forbear giving you a particular 
 Account of it, fmee I have Time enough. I 
 am confident you will be pleafed to fee a De- 
 feription of one of the fineft Places in the World; 
 and will not blame me for endeavouring to dif 
 play the uncommon Rarities of this Magazine of 
 Wonders. 
 
 In the fir ft Gallery there are four great Cup- 
 boards. In the Second eight *, and at the End 
 of this Gallery there is a Cabinet full of new 
 Curiofities. The firft Cupboard in the firft Gal- 
 lery is quite filled with Veftels of mafliveGold, 
 fo curioufly wrought that what Ovid fays of the 
 
 Chariot 
 
Part I. VITALY. Munich. 149 
 
 Chariot of the Sun, may be juftly applied to Matcriam fa 
 them. Tho* as for the three pretended Unicorns opus. 
 
 Horns that are kept in this Cupboard, ’twill be 
 fufficient to tell you, that one of them is fix 
 Foot and a half long, another eight Foot and 
 three Inches, and the other ten Foot and five Inches. 
 
 Thefe Sorts of Horns were almoft of an inefti- 
 mable Price, when the World was ignorant of 
 their being Fifhes Teeth, and really believed 
 them to be the Horns of that chimerical Animal, 
 called an Unicorn. 
 
 In the fecond Cupboard. 
 
 Several natural and artificial Rarities, with 
 a confiderable Number of large Veffels of Rock- 
 Cryital, for the moft Part wrought with Bajfo 
 Relievo's , enriched with Gold ; fome are covered 
 with Lids of large precious Stones. 
 
 In the third Cupboard. 
 
 A large Bafon of maffiveGold, covered all 
 over with Rubies, and oriental Turquoifes. 
 
 A large Cup of Agate, after the Fafhion of 
 a Gondolo, enriched with Pearls and Bajfo Re- 
 lievo's of Gold. 
 
 A Purse containing 500 Pearls of a middle 
 Size. 
 
 Two hundred other Pearls all of the Figure of 
 Pearls, and of an equal Bignefs ; of a very fine 
 Water, and larger than the former. 
 
 A Jewel enriched with five Emeralds, each 
 of the Bignefs of a Guinea, with 200 pretty 
 large Diamonds, four large Rubies, and eleven 
 very fine Pearls of the Figure of a Bear. 
 
 A small Coffer of Ebony, with a golden 
 Cock, enriched with feventy fine Diamonds, as 
 L £ many 
 
Munich. A Nemo Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 many Rubies, and an equal Number of Emeralds. 
 It coxitains eighty Pearls, of the moft perfedb 
 Sort, and largeft Size. 
 
 A gold Jewel enriched with twenty Diamonds 
 of fixteen Carats each ; and of the Figure of a 
 Pear. 
 
 Three Rings fet with three large Diamonds, 
 and two other Rings, one of which is fet with a 
 very fine Ruby, and the other with a large E- 
 merald. 
 
 Six Ear-rings curioufly wrought in Gold, 
 with a large Pearl in each of them •, Diamonds, 
 Rubies, and Emeralds. They are too heavy to 
 be hung at the Ear. 
 
 A Cross compofed of a large Pearl, three great 
 Diamonds, two Rubies, and an Emerald. 
 
 A Jewel with a broad Diamond cut flat. A 
 Ruby weighing above an Ounce •, and a fine 
 round Pearl of the Bignefs of a fmall Nut. 
 
 A Lion, an Elephant, and an Eagle, adorned 
 all over, with large Diamonds, Pearls, and Rubies. 
 
 A St George, enrich’d with eighty Diamonds. 
 
 A Cross compos’d of ten very large Dia- 
 monds *, with three Pearls of the Figure of a Pear. 
 
 Another large Crofs of Diamonds, adorned 
 with a great and perfect Emerald, and forty 
 large and very white Pearls. 
 
 A Garland of Diamonds, in the Middle of 
 which there is a very large one, and a fine Pearl 
 of the Figure of a Pear. 
 
 An Emerald of the Bignefs of a Nut. 
 
 An Eagle enriched with 200 Diamonds: Two 
 great Rubies, and three fine Pearls of the lar- 
 gefl: Size. 
 
 A Jewel reprefenting certain Inftruments of 
 War, with above 400 Diamonds, the leafl of 
 which weighs from eight to nine Carats , and fix 
 Pearls of the Figure of a Pear. 
 
 A WRITING 
 
Parti. /a ITALY. Munich. 151 
 
 A w r 1 t 1 n g Defk adorned with 2 ooDiamonds. 
 
 A small Coffer adorned with feventy Dia- 
 monds, thirty Rubies, ten Emeralds, and two 
 hundred Pearls. 
 
 A large Veffel of Gold, whofe Covering is 
 enriched with Rubies and fmall Pearls. 
 
 A large Flagon made of Unicorn’s Horn, 
 on which the Myfteries of the Paffion, are repre- 
 fented in Bajfo Relievo's of Gold. On the Cover 
 there is a large Ruby fet round with Pearls, E- 
 meralds, and more than 270 Diamonds. 
 
 Another larger Flagon, adorned with Bajfo 
 Relievo's, after the fame Manner, and enriched 
 on the Cover with fixty Rubies, and feverai E- 
 meralds of the Bignefs of Nuts. 
 
 Another Flagon covered all over with Sap- 
 phires. 
 
 A Looking-glass in a Frame adorned with 
 large Rubies and Emeralds. 
 
 A Girdle enriched with eighteen large Dia- 
 monds, and nine Rubies. 
 
 In the fourth Cupboard. 
 
 A small Coffer of Silver Gilt, adorned with 
 an hundred Diamonds, containing a Jewel, en- 
 riched with a like Number of Diamonds, each 
 weighing eight Carats. 
 
 A Frame of a Looking-glafs, the Cornifh 
 of which is covered all over with Rubies, Eme- 
 ralds and Diamonds. 
 
 Another fmall Coffer enriched with an hun- 
 dred Rubies, feverai Emeralds, and feventy Dia- 
 monds cut in a Triangle ; round which there are 
 thirty fmall ones, weighing fix Carats each. 
 
 A Chain for a Collar confifting of five hun- 
 dred large Diamonds. 
 
 L 4 
 
 A Vessel 
 
j $2 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 A Vessel of Jafper, enriched with Bajfo Re- 
 lieves of Gold, and a great Number of fine 
 Diamonds, 
 
 Another Difh of Lapis Lazuli 1 , adorned af- 
 ter the fame Ma ner. 
 
 Two Cups of Lapis Lazuli covered all over 
 with Rubies and Diamonds. 
 
 A large Vdfel of Jafper, enriched with 
 Gold and Pearls 
 
 A large Veflelof one entire Emerald, with 
 abunda. ce of Pearls and Diamonds. 
 
 A Girdle enriched with nineteen Rofes, 
 every Leaf of which is adorned with twenty 
 four Diamonds. 
 
 A Casket of fine Indian Wood, containing 
 a rare Colledlion of Gold Medals, which weigh 
 two hundred Marks. 
 
 These are the moft confiderable Rarities con- 
 tained in the four firft Cupboards; befides which 
 there are many others of lefs Moment. 
 
 The Gallery adjoining to the Treafury is a- 
 domed all around with gilt Sculptures ; and 
 beautified with thirty two large Fixtures in Oil, 
 forty in Miniature, thirty fix Portraits, by Ra- 
 phael, Michael Angelo , Titian, Corregio , and other 
 famous Mailers ; and three fine Pieces in Mofaic 
 of Gold and Silver. 
 
 The firft Cupboard. 
 
 Contains feveral Caftcets, enriched with 
 Gold and precious Stones, in which there are fe- 
 veral curious Indian Works. 
 
 * At the Bat- The Ribbon of the Order of the Garter * taken 
 
 tie of Prague, from the Count Palatine, King of Bohemia. 
 
 Two Dials in Boxes of Cryftal and Jafper, 
 adorned with many Diamonds, 
 
 A Cru- 
 
Parti. VITALY. Munich. J53 
 
 A Crucifix of Wax on a Golden Pedeftal, 
 covered all over with Pearls. The Title on the 
 Croft is engraved on one Piece of Emerald. 
 
 Two Pair of Tables of Gold, curioufly 
 wrought. 
 
 Two other Tables adorned with Lapis Lazuli , 
 and Miniatures on a Ground of Gold. 
 
 Two Church-books, one written by the Ele- 
 dtor Maximilian the other covered with an Em- 
 broidery of Pearls and precious Stones, wrought 
 by Mary I, Queen of England. 
 
 In the fecond Cupboard. 
 
 Several Veffels of Rhinoceros’s Horn curi- 
 oufly wrought. 
 
 A great Number of curious Works in Ivory, 
 fome of them made by the Ele&ors Maximilian , 
 and Ferdinand Maria, the Father and Grandfather 
 of Maximilian Maria , the prefent Elector. [1712.] 
 
 In the third Cupboard* 
 
 Several fine Works in Mofaic. 
 
 An Image of the Virgin embroidered with 
 Pearls. 
 
 Two other Madoncts of Wax, by the Hand of 
 
 Michael Angelo . 
 
 Two Globes, one Celeftial, and the other 
 Terreftrial, each of the Bignefs of a fmall Nut, 
 where every thing is well defcribed. 
 
 The Plan of the City of Froy, on a Piece of 
 Lapis lazuli. 
 
 Two Cafkets full of Bezoar Stones, odorife- 
 rous Wood, and other Perfumes. 
 
 Another Cafket enriched with Diamonds, 
 containing two ftriking Watches of the Bignefs 
 of a fmall Nut, hung as Ear-rings. Two other 
 
 Watches 
 
154 
 
 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Watches enchaled in Rings. A little Book writ- 
 ten in very fmall Charaders. The Cherry-ftone 
 which I mentioned before. 
 
 Two large Purfes full of Bavarian Pearls, big, 
 and white. 
 
 In the fourth Cupboard. 
 
 Fourteen Veffels of Lapis Lazuli , Jafper y 
 and Cornelian , enriched with Gold and precious 
 Stones, curioufly wrought. 
 
 Several Urns, Flagons, and other Vefiels, 
 adorned after the fame Manner. 
 
 A large Calket of Touch-tlone, with Bajjo 
 Relievo’s , adorned with precious Stones. 
 
 Two Bafkets of Gold, with a great many 
 Turquoifes. 
 
 A large Cup with a Cover of one Piece of 
 Coral. 
 
 A great Golden Cup, adorned with the 
 Portrai&ures of all the Princes of the Houle of 
 Aujtria , and the Arms of all the Ele&ors. 
 
 In the fifth Cupboard. 
 
 Several Curiofities in Ivory; among which 
 there are five very fine Crucifixes. 
 
 Two fine Miniatures, one by Albert Durer 9 
 and the other by Julio Romano . 
 
 An Indian Box containing a Chaplet, the 
 Beads of which are of Amber and large Pearls. 
 The Death’s Head, that is fattened to it, is a- 
 domed with thirty large Diamonds of the fineft 
 and molt beautiful Sort. 
 
 Twelve Peach-ftones, on which are engraved 
 the twelve firlt Ccejars . 
 
 In 
 
Parti. VITALY. Munich. jet 
 
 In the fixth Cupboard. 
 
 A great Number of little Silver Statues and 
 Paintings in Miniature. 
 
 Some little Curiofities in Gold, and other 
 Matters, made by Sgifmund I, King of Poland . 
 
 A Casket full ot Bafkers of Philigreen. 
 
 In the feventh Cupboard. 
 
 A considerable Number of Pieces of an 
 excellent Workmanfhip in Ivory. 
 
 Several Wax-figures, by Albert Durer. 
 
 A great Number of fmall Pictures, among 
 which are three Death’s Heads, by Albert Durer \ , 
 
 and a fine Piece of the Nativity of St John Bap - 
 tift 9 curioufiy engraved on a fine Stone. 
 
 The eighth Cupboard, 
 
 Is quite full of a vaft Number of Vefiels of 
 Amber, Agat, Onyx, 13c. enriched with Gold 
 and precious Stones 
 
 At the End of the Gallery the Cabinet which 
 I have mentioned, contains another curious Col- 
 ledtion of Medals, Miniatures, rare Paintings, 
 and feveral Sorts of ancient Arms, all enriched 
 with precious Stones. 
 
 In the Middle of the Cabinet, there is a 
 large and fair celeftial Globe, the Motions of 
 which mark the Hours, the Courfe of all the 
 Planets, &c. N B , rg!ve 
 
 Notice[i7i4] 
 
 that I have not deferibed all the Riches of this Treafure, that we have juft 
 now furveyed, according to the Examination I have made of it myfelf ; 
 which would have required abundance of Time and Care : But having an 
 Occafion to fpeak of this Cabinet, I thought I could do no better, than to 
 
 tranferibe 
 
356 Munich. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 tranfcribe the Catalogue that the Marquefs Palavicini , whom I have already 
 mentioned, had publittied fome Years before. This Gentleman, who had a 
 confiderable Employ under the Eieftor, caufed all that we have juft now faid, 
 to be printed in Munich, and dedicated it to his faid Matter. Every one 
 will judge, whether he had a Defign to impofe on the Publick by it, in in- 
 venting fuch Lies. Indeed fuch vaft Riches, to judge of Things only by 
 their Appearance, feem fabulous and more fuitable to a Palace of the Fairies, 
 than to a German Prince’s Houfe, how high and puiflant foever he may be. 
 
 From thence you defcend to an Oval Court, 
 Unrounded with a fine covered Portico, in 
 the Miaft of which there is a magnificent 
 Fountain. The Bafon is of Marble, adorned 
 with fixteen Brafs Figures, with a great Statue 
 in the Middle, reprefenting the General of an 
 Army. 
 
 From this Court you enter into the Hall of 
 Antiques which I have already mentioned. Be- 
 fides the Butts and Statues I fpoke of, there 
 are twelve large Pidtures, reprefenting twelve 
 Virtues. At one of the Ends of the Hall there 
 is a Sort of Eftrade , railed in with Marble Ba- 
 lifters, in the Mid ft of which there is a fine Ta- 
 ble of inlaid Work of Florence. . 
 
 Near this Hall there is a little Garden which 
 contains feveral rare Plants, and is adorned with 
 Fountains, Statues, Grots, and Water-Spouts. 
 From Place to Place there are Benches, and Ta- 
 bles of Marble. The great Garden is full of the 
 fame Kind of Ornaments, and feveral others. 
 On one Side there is a Gallery, or very long 
 Portico, adorned with Paintings. 
 
 The feveral Councils and Courts of Juftice 
 meet in the old Palace. 
 
 The Menage, or Riding-houfe deferves to be 
 taken Notice of. ’Tis 366 Foot long, 76 broad, 
 and lighted by 84 large Windows. A fine Cor- 
 ridor runs quite round on the Infide. This Place 
 is not only appointed for the ufual Exercifes on 
 
 Horfeback, 
 
Parti. /<? ITALY. Munich. 157 
 
 Horfeback, but alfo for Tournaments, and fcvc- 
 
 ral * other kinds of Shows. * There is a 
 
 There are many Pleafure-houfes. That of p a fec<T for or- 
 Stanenberg is feated on a little Hill, by the Lake binary Plays, 
 of Wirrrzee , which is three Miles long, and one 
 broad. The Eledtor caufed a Vefiel to be built 
 at this Place, after the Model of the Bucentaur 
 of Venice . The Ploufe of f Schleifheim is both lar- 4 Scbleifheim , 
 ger and more regular, but it’s Situation is not fo Dakaw , $u- 
 pleafant. nenberg 
 
 At the Entry of the Palace at Munich there s/recb^kc. 
 is a great Stone, chained to the Wall, which 
 weighs 364 Pounds. ’Tis a Sort of black Mar- 
 ble *, and it appears by an Infcription upon the 
 W all, that one Duke Chrijlopher carried this vStone 
 and threw it fome Paces from him : But Monfieur 
 de Monconys is mightily miftaken in writing that 
 the Elector threw this Stone twelve Foot high. Ad- 
 joining to the fame Place there is a Nail fixed in 
 the Wall, twelve Foot high, which marks the 
 Place from whence the fame Duke pulled down a 
 Stone with his Feet, climbing up the Wall. 
 
 You may obferve, that in the Defcription of 
 the Treafury, I mentioned Bavarian Pearls. They 
 are fifhed in the River III: One half of thole 
 that are found belongs to the Emperor, and the 
 other to the Eledtor of Bavaria . 
 
 Munich, Dec . 
 4, 1687. 
 
 I a?n> 
 
 SIR , 
 
 Toursy &c. 
 
 LETTER 
 
Alps. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 % 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 carries only 
 {mall Boats. 
 
 FTER we had for fome time followed the 
 
 Banks of the * Ifer , which is the River of 
 
 Munich , we entered into a Foreft ; at our coming 
 out of which, we diftin&ly perceived the Begin- 
 ning of the Alps : Their Snowy 1'ops are min- 
 gled with the Clouds, and refemble very much 
 the fwelling and foaming Waves of a tempe- 
 ftuous and raging Sea. If tne Courage of thofe 
 has been admired, who fir ft expofed themfelves to 
 the Fury of that Element, here is like wife Matter 
 enough of Aftonifhment, that any one fhould 
 venture himfelf among the Cliffs and Precipices 
 of fuch dilfnal Mountains. 
 
 The fame Day we departed from Munich , we 
 came to a Village called Lagrem , which is at the 
 Foot of the Mountains, and near to a little Lake 
 of very pure Water. In this Place they gave us 
 a Sort of Fifh that we knew not. The firft thing 
 with which our Hoft entertained us, was a Cha- 
 fing-difh full of Incenfe, with which he perfumed 
 our Chambers; and indeed we found more Neat- 
 nefs in this little folitary Habitation, than in ma- 
 ny great Cities in our Journey. After we had 
 coafted the Mountains about two Hours, we 
 entred among them ; and for a long Time afcend- 
 ed in the Midft of Rocks, Firr-trees, and Snow. 
 This is one of the wildeft Places in the World. 
 Yet we found fome Fifhermens Cottages, on 
 the Banks of two or three Lakes, which are be- 
 tween the high Mountains : But we could not 
 dilcover one Spot of tilled Ground ; and pro- 
 
 bably 
 
i 5 9 
 
 Parti, /a ITALY. Mittenwalt. 
 
 bably Cheefe of Goats-Milk, with fome Fifh, 
 is the principal Diet of thefe poor People. Their Many of them 
 Cabins are made of the Trunks of Firr-Trees, Guns ^nd 
 well joined together ; and their Boats are framed Veniion. 
 of the fame Trees of one Piece hollowed. 
 
 They entertained us with wild Goats-Flefh, 
 and very large Salmon-Trouts in the Village of 
 Mittenwalt , which is three Leagues farther. This MITTEN- 
 Village is in the Middle of a pleafant Plain, and WALT, 
 the Rocks which environ it are extreamly high. 
 
 Our Landlord fhewed us fome Balls, or brown 
 Maffes, about the Bignefs of an Hen’s- Egg, or 
 lefs, which are a kind of fbft and imperftd: Be - 
 zoar ; and are commonly found in thofe Parts, 
 in the Stomach of the wild Goats., The good 
 Man allured us of their great * Virtues, and * , Tig known 
 that he often fold them to Travellers. He va- that all Sorts 
 lued them at ten Crowns a-piece *, and I believe of Naturalifts 
 we Ihould have done him a Courtefy, if we exto1 the Be ~ 
 had taken five or fix which he had at that ancUp^ 
 Price. proved Anti- 
 
 dote againft 
 
 Poifon. But M, de la Naucbe Guy on, Counfellor to Charles IX, relates a 
 Story very well atteited, which fhows, how little we ought to rely upon this 
 Remedy, and feveral other Medicines of the fame Nature, Book i. Ch. io. 
 
 Seealfo Monconys, Parti. Pag. 252, of the Lyons Edition, 1677. 
 
 A l i t t l e farther we met a very pleafantT roop 
 of Beggars. As foon as they perceived us, one 
 of them, who carried a little Tree loaded with 
 red Fruits, planted it in the Middle of the Way, 
 and fat down by the Side of it ; a little Goblin in 
 the Shape of a Crocodile, fattened himfelf to 
 the Tree *, and a Girl with long and difhevelled 
 Hair, approached to it ; an old Man cloathed 
 in black, with a Peruke and Beard of Mols, flood 
 at a little Diftance, with a young Boy clad in 
 white, who held a Sword. When they thought 
 we were near enough, the little Devil opened 
 
 the 
 
2 6o 
 
 Freisinoen. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 the Comedy with a Dogrel Song ; and we could 
 without Difficulty guefs, that they intended to 
 reprefentthe Hiftory of the Fall of Adam. One 
 of us, as he pafled by the old Man, afked him* 
 who was at a Diftance from the Others, whether 
 he was of their Company ; the poor Creature 
 anfwered very ferioufly, That he was God the 
 Father, and that if we would (lay a little, we 
 fhould fee him aft his Part, with his little Dag- 
 ger-carrier, who was St Michael the Arch-AngeU 
 Such is the Effeft of the Reprefentations which 
 they make of the Deity. 
 
 FREISIN- A Quarter of an Hour after this fine Ren- 
 GEN. Fra d- counter, we pafled by the Fort of Chernitz , which 
 dunum" am ^°~ * s ^ 3U ^ t ^ ctween two inacceflible Rocks, and fepa- 
 rares the County of Tyrol from the Bifhoprick of 
 Freijinghen . This Bifhoprick is in Bavaria *, and 
 Tyrol you know is one of the Emperor’s Heredi- 
 tary Provinces. We came very late to the Vil- 
 lage of Seefdd , after we had pafled thro’ many 
 Turnings and Windings among the high Moun- 
 tains. There is a Convent of Auguftines in this 
 Village*, and we faw in the Church two or three 
 pretended wonderful Things, with which they 
 make no fmall Noife. 
 
 They tell a Story of a certain Gentleman, na- 
 med Milfer , who lived in the Caftle of Scblosberg 9 
 about a Quarter of a League from hence, who 
 was very much dreaded in this Village *, and that he 
 was fo vain as to defire to communicate with 
 the great Hoft, which is only for the Ufe of the 
 Clergy. They endeavoured to diflliade him 
 from fuch a dangerous Frolick *, but all in vain. 
 And when they had put the Hoft into his Mouth 
 it caft out, as they fay, a Flood of Blood, and 
 at the fame Time the Legs of the Communicant 
 funk into the Pavement up to the Knees, He 
 would have fupported himielf on the Altar, but 
 
 the 
 
 
Parti, to I T A L Y. F&eisingen. i6i 
 
 the Stone gavg Way, and foftned under his Hand, 
 and the poor miferable Man had been fwallowed 
 alive, it he had not been retrieved by a fpeedy 
 Repentance. The Auguftines fhevv this pretended 
 Hoft, chewed and bloody in a Glafs-ShrinC. 
 
 They fhew alfo the Print of a Hand on the Al- 
 tar, and a Hole in the Pavement of the Church, 
 near the fame Altar, as of two Legs funk into 
 foft Ground. They fay that this Hoft works 
 Miracles ; and the Convent improves the Story 
 to the beft Advantage. 
 
 Two large Leagues on this Side Seefeld we bfc- Bert his boafe 
 gan to defcend, and three Quarters of an Hour mightily of 
 after wards we arrived in a deed Valley, which L a n^ r \ v hk:h 
 was at moft but a Mile in Breadth. The River indeed appears 
 Inn glides pleafantly along, and waters feveral very fruitful, 
 pretty Villages. We turned to the left in this There arc 
 Valley, and followed always the Foot of the ^ n e es a ^ cr 
 Mountain. And a little League farther they Scbwatfz 
 made us take Notice of a fteep Rock, which is nearthatPlace. 
 
 called, Ihe Emperor' 1 s Rock . El^r^that 
 
 The extraordinary Adventure, which, occa- j n his Time 
 Honed this Denomination, has been deferibed by thefe filver 
 the Emperor himfelf ( MAXIMILIAN then Mines wcr £ 
 but Arch-Duke J in a German Poem, entituled, ^hree 
 . Zewerdank : And a great many other grave Au- hundred thou- 
 thors have reported this ftrange Relation for an fand Crowns 
 undoubted Truth. But I have met with none of 
 thefe Writers that deferves better to be credited afraid his aht- 
 than Eftienne Piggbius , Governor to a Prince of tie too much, 
 the fame Houfe, who relates the Story after the 
 fame Manner as it was told to that young Prince, 
 upon the fame Place, at the Court of Infpmck. 
 
 Since I have Pigghius ’ s Relation by me, I will give 
 you an Abftratft of it : it is written in Latin . 
 
 “ At a prodigious Height upon the Rock, 
 cc or rather the Mountain which is a Rock 
 “ that fhews on that Side a very fteep Face*, 
 
 Vql, L M “ there 
 
A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 44 there is a wooden Crucifix in a fort of a Nich 
 4 c that is made in the Front of the Rock ; [he 
 4 4 is not /peaking of the two Statues on each Side , 
 44 which I faw there]. This Crucifix, fays he, 
 44 is about forty Foot high ; but when one 
 44 looks upon it from the Valley, it does not 
 44 feem to be above two Foot; [he ought to 
 44 have /aid fomething more :] and this is the Mo- 
 44 nument of that wonderful Adventure I am 
 * 4 going to relate. 
 
 44 The Arch-Duke Maximilian , Son to the 
 44 Emperor Frederick III, being in Chafe of a 
 44 wild Goat, was through the Eagernefs of the 
 44 Purfuit, got among thefe high Mountains by 
 44 himfelf*, and coming to the very Place where 
 44 the Crucifix now Hands, and being furprized 
 44 to fee the dreadful Precipices before him, 
 44 he would willingly have turned tyick \ but 
 44 he could neither find the Way he came, nor 
 44 any other Path out of this Labyrinth, unknown 
 44 to every Body, into which he was got ; nor 
 44 any other Pofition from whence he might be 
 44 aflifted by any one. He continued there 
 44 two Days and two Nights, in what Condition 
 46 one may eafily imagine, [for I abridge the 
 44 Relation,] without any Poflibility of being 
 44 fuccoured. There was nothing but Lamenta- 
 44 tions, Procefiions, and Prayers, by the Croud 
 44 that beheld him from below, the Court, the 
 44 People, and the Clergy ; but no Hopes of 
 44 ever faving him. At laft he heard a Noife, 
 44 and at the fame Time perceived a young Man 
 44 removing the largefl Stones on the Right-hand 
 44 and on the left, and preparing a Way for Him : 
 44 The young Man, who was in a Peafant’s 
 44 Habit, drew near him, and ftretching out 
 44 his Right-hand to him, faid, 'Take Courage 
 44 Maximilian, He that can deliver Thee is living , 
 
 44 and 
 
163 
 
 r'-r 
 
 Parti. * ITALY. 
 
 <4 and prefent to do it \ fear nothing hut follow me ; 
 
 ‘‘ I will conduct Thee into a fafe Place. The Prince 
 <4 obeyed without any Manner of Hefitation ; 
 
 <4 and foon after, his Guide having put him into 
 “ an eafy Way, difappeared. They ran to meet 
 44 him, &c. the Reft is eafy to be gueft at. The 
 44 next Day the Emperor, who was at Infpruck , 
 
 44 began to fearch after the Deliverer of his Son, 
 
 44 by all the Ways that could poflibly be thought 
 44 of, in order to give him the Honours and 
 44 the Recompenfe he fo well defer ved : But he 
 44 could learn no News of him ; neither has 
 44 there been any heard of him fince.” 
 
 Says another Author. 
 
 ad Scopulum curfu pervenimus altum \ 
 
 Hie , ubi feftatus ter Maximus AEmylianus 
 jilt a in rupe Capras , finiffet turpiter avum^ 
 
 Ni JDeus ad majora Virum fervaffet •, opemque 
 Auxilio AGRICOLjE peneipfa in Morte tuliffetfAc. 
 
 One might compofe whole Volumes of fuch 
 Hiftories, which according to the Opinion of 
 your learned Spencer , amongft others, who was 
 no Pedant, ought not to be ridiculed : But I 
 lhall content myfelf with adding one, which I 
 had from a very fcarce Book, the C olio quia Men - Colloquia 
 1 folia of the great and famous Luther. 44 When Menlaiia, &c. 
 44 I lived at Zwica, fays he, in Franconia, a Child cka P- 35* thc 
 44 that could hardly fpeak or walk, was got into ^otc^that* 
 
 44 a W 7 ood near the Houfe, [there are Forefts e- this Book, 
 
 44 very where in that Country.] An unexpected whofe Origin 
 44 Snow covering and altering the Surface of the ^ ^ gr ™ an * 
 44 Ground, the Child could not find the Way ftl ^ e e d sn as e “ 
 44 back again to the Houfe. The Snow conti- much as poffi- 
 
 ble by the 
 
 powerful Enemies of Luther and his Opinion, who have burnt forty thoufand 
 Copies of it : Thofe that remain are very fcarce : It was printed in Englijh at 
 London , in the Year 1652, after great Examination, by an exprefs Order of 
 Parliament ; with all the prodigious Circumllances that are related in thePrefac*, 
 
 M 2 44 nuing 
 
164 
 
 Inspruck. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 44 nuing to fall in great Abundance, he remained 
 44 there cover’d over with it, two Days and three 
 44 Nights. During that Time an unknown 
 44 Man brought him Meat and Drink : But at 
 64 the beginning of the third Day he led the 
 44 Child near his Father’s Houfe, and there left | 
 44 him. I WAS PRESENT when he came 1 
 44 in, and I protefl he told all that had happen’d 
 44 to him, as clearly and in as good Terms as I 
 44 could have done myfelf; notwithflanding, 
 
 44 from that Time for Three whole Years, he 
 44 was not capable of putting any Words toge- - 
 44 ther, that one could eafily underftand. I am 
 44 therefore perfuaded, adds Luther , that the 
 44 Man that preferved him was a good Angel. 
 INSPRUCK is but two fhort Hours farther in 
 INSPRUCK. the middle of the Valley, upon the River Inn: 
 yEnipons You muft pals this River on a Bridge before you 
 Pons JEni. enter the City •, and it is therefore called Infpruck ; 
 
 that Word having the fame Signification in High - 
 Dutch , as JEnipons , or JEnipontum , which is it’s 
 Name in Latin . The Greek Geographers call this 
 River aW, from whence it follows, that thofe 
 who write it with an CE, are to blame. Be- 
 fides, there’s a Difpute about the Place where 
 the Ancient EEnipons flood ; for certainly Infpruck 
 is not now in that Place. 
 
 There are fine Houfes at Infpruck ; yet the 
 Manner after which they cover them, feems at 
 firfl very difagreeable to thofe who are not ac- 
 cuflomed to them; for not only the Roofs are 
 flat, but inflead of rifing to a Point, they are re- 
 verfed, and the Gutter runs into the Middle of 
 the Roof. 
 
 After the Duke of Lor rain had the Misfortune 
 to lofe his Dominions, the Emperor gave him 
 the Government of Tirol ; and the Refidence of 
 . this Prince was at Infpruck , in the Palace built 
 
 by 
 
Part I. VITALY. Inspruck. 
 
 by Maximilian I, for the Ufe of one of the Arch- 
 Dukes, that is to fay the Sons of the Emperor, 
 as an Appenage : For all the Children of thefe 
 Princes are qualified with the Title of Arch- 
 i Dukes and Arch-Ducheffes, unlefs the Eldeft 
 I has a greater Name, by being chofen King of 
 I the Romans. This Palace has many Conve- 
 t niences, and is of a fufficient Extent, tho* it was 
 | built at feveral times, and is neither beautiful 
 j nor regular. The Menage, or Riding- Houle, 
 which is alio made ufe of for Public Shows, 
 
 \' is almoll like that at Munich , but larger. 
 
 They Ihew’d us one Thing very fingular; 
 
 I but tho’ I made a very diligent Inquiry, I could 
 j not meet with any Perfon that could fully fatis- 
 I fy my Curiofity. The Houfe which they call 
 the Chancery , looks into the publick Place in the 
 Midft of the City, The Portal of this Houfe, 
 which refembles a little Porch on the Out-fide, 
 i has a Roof that leans againft the Wall of the 
 Houfe •, and is, as they allured us, covered with 
 Plates of Gold. They gave us the following 
 Account of it. A Sedition, and almoll gene- 
 ral Rebellion, being railed againft an Arch-Duke 
 . called Frederick, whom they particularize no other- 
 wife that Prince was forced to hide himielf : 
 but not being willing to go far off, that he might 
 be ready to appear when his Affairs fhould be in 
 a better Pofture ; he engaged himielf in the Ser- 
 vice of a Miller in a Village of the neighbour- 
 ing Mountain. In Effedl, the Tumult was quieted, 
 and Frederick recalled : But there were ftill 
 
 fome difaffedted Perfons who abuled him, and 
 gave him the Nick-name of Empty-Purfe and 
 therefore to Ihew that he v/as not fo poor as 
 thofe People imagined, he affedted to be prodigal 
 of Gold, in employing that precious Metal to fence 
 againft the Weather. 
 
 M 3 
 
 There 
 
1 66 
 
 Mon cony s fa ys. 
 that ’tis of 
 Brafs gilt. 
 
 Geo. Brown 
 writes, that 
 the Plates are 
 
 Inspruck. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 There is nothing impoflible in this Story; 
 and it was related to us for a certain Truth, by 
 People who feemed to want neither Senfe nor 
 Difcretion ; neverthelefs, to fpeak freely, I am 
 very inclinable tofufpedl the Truth of it. I be- 
 lieve no Author ever wrote of it ; and ’tis 
 plain, fo fingular a Thing would not have been 
 omitted. Perhaps fomething not unlike this did 
 really happen, which might give Occafion to 
 this Tradition. 
 
 I could not touch the Roof, t>ecaufe it is a 
 little too higlv, tho’ I have attentively looked up- 
 on it, and faw diftindtly, that the Plates of Brafs 
 are placed on the Timber, and ferve for Tiles ; 
 and I perceived alfo, that each of thefe Plates are 
 of Silver ; and covered with another thin one of another Metal, 
 Work of the which teemed to me to be about a Line in Thick- 
 Emperor nefs. If thefe laft Plates be not of Gold, I am 
 Maximilianl. fure they are gilded ; but if they be only a fim- 
 Profeffor^f / ' P^ e Elding* why fhould they lay one Metal up- 
 Phyfick at on another ? and why could they not as well 
 Padua , takes have gilded the brazen Tiles ? 
 it for granted, 
 
 that the Roof is covered with Tiles of Gold. He believes, that there are at 
 lead; three Thoufand, and adds, that a Jew offered three thoufand Florins a 
 Piece for them. He was informed at Injpruck , that a private Perfon, who 
 was fo rich that he knew not what to do with his Money, laid it out on this 
 Structure ; and he neither contradifls his Author, nor makes the lead: Re- 
 flexion on this Story. I confefs, a private Inhabitant of Infpruck , might 
 well think himfelf too rich, when he had three Millions of Florins. 
 
 The Roof may be about fifteen Foot fquare ; 
 and if it be of Gold, which I do not believe, I 
 find by Calculation, that the Value of it a- 
 mounts to about T wo hundred thoufand Crowns. 
 But Gold is become fo fcarce a Metal, and the Want 
 of it fo very great every where, that ’tis not 
 likely they would let this Trealure lie ufelefs at 
 Infpruck , or that the Thieves themfelves would 
 fpare it. 
 
 Those 
 
m 
 
 i Parti, to ITALY. Inspruck. 167 
 
 Those that conduced us, told us ’twas the 
 fame Frederick who caufed the twenty eight 
 fine Brafs Statues, bigger than the Life, to be 
 made, which are in the Church of the Corde- 
 liers : But I am perfuaded thefe People are mifi 
 I informed ; for by the Manner in which thefe Sta- 
 5 tues are placed round the magnificent Tomb of 
 the Emperor Maximilian I, of whom we have 
 ? been talking fo much, I have Reafon to believe 
 we may look upon them as Part of this honorary 
 Tomb, which yas eredted by Charles the Fifth, 
 
 # and Ferdinand his Brother, to the glorious Me- 
 : mory of their moft illuftrious Grand-father, one 
 > of the moft excellent Princes that ever any Hi- 
 ftory made Mention of. 
 
 You have feen that he is called Maximus M- 
 mylianus , in the Verfes I quoted to you *, but per- 
 haps you do not know the Reafon of it: It is 
 fomething very fingular. Your famous Camden 
 has given an Account of it in few Words, and I 
 fhall content my felt with only tranfcribing his 
 very Expreflions. “ MAXIMILIAN is a new 
 “ Name, firft devifed by the Emperor, Frederick 
 “ the Third, his Father*, Frederick doubting 
 e< what Name to give to his Son and Heir, com- 
 <c poled this Name of two worthy Roman Names, 
 
 <c whom he moft admired, Fabius MAXIMUS 
 <c and Scipio AIMYLI ANUS', that his Son fliould 
 “ imitate their Virtues”. Camden cites for his 
 Authority, Jerom Gebvilerius , in his Book de Fa - 
 ntilia Aujtriaca. I will here add two Reflections, 
 that agree very well with, and fupport thefe 
 Notions. The firft is, that the Names of Max- 
 imus and JEmylianus are not only the Names of 
 great Men, but Names whofe Signification im- 
 plies Great and Happy : And the fecond is, that 
 the Name of jEmylius was given by another 
 King, to wit Nu?na y to the Head of the nume- 
 M 4 rous 
 
i68 
 
 Inspruck. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 rous and illuftrious sE?nylian Family, on the 
 Account of the lovely Qualities of his Mind, 
 
 they mean 
 Mfiximian . 
 
 CL 770 <£ Alf/vVlOit fays Plutarch , in the Life of Numa . 
 
 I have obferved that ’tis pretty ufual for the Ger- 
 man Authors to write Maxcemylianus . Let us far- 
 ther obferve, that Frederick's Wifhes have been 
 ♦ Some Au- accomplifhed, in that his Son ; * the firft Perlon 
 thors mention in the whole World, that ever bore that Name, 
 one Maximili- f or w hom he had fo agreeably invented it, 
 ed Martyrdom h as fully anfwered the Expedation of the In- 
 in the third ventor. 
 
 Century; but We went to fee Amrasy [Arx Ambrofiana^ as it 
 is called by James Schrenckius , Secretary to the 
 late Arch' Duke Ferdinand , in his HommesMuftres ] 
 which was a Houfe of Pleafure belonging to 
 the Arch-Duke. It is diftant a large half Hour 
 from Infpruck , at the Foot of the Mountain •, it 
 hath no Beauty, on any Side, for a royal Houfe, 
 and it’s Situation is the main thing that makes it 
 Pleafant. They have taken away all the Furni- 
 ture of ordinary Ufe, but we found Galleries yet 
 full of Rarities. Firft they carried us to a large 
 Hall, where we found Arms that are more cu- 
 rious than ufual. They made us take Notice, 
 among other Things, of a very large and heavy 
 Lance, which one Arch-Duke Ferdinand ufed in 
 Turnaments. They faid, that Prince fr could 
 
 
 f The fame is a Coach and fix FJorfes at full Gallop, by 
 
 mr do de Vinci, taking hold of a Spoak of the Wheel; and that 
 a Painter of he broke with his Elands two Crown-Pieces 
 Florence . joined together ; and I know not how many 
 
 InCamlrart ot ^ er prodigious Stories, more incredible than 
 us's Hiftorical the Hiftory of Frederick . 
 
 Meditations, a 
 
 very curious Chapter of the unufual Strength of feveral Perfons. T. I. /. 5 . c. 2 . 
 The late Elector of Saxo?iy, afterwards King of Poland , was hardly infe 
 rior to the ftrongeft of thefe Men. 
 
169 
 
 Parti. VITALY. Amras. 
 
 We went from the Hall into a Gallery, where 
 we faw feveral Princes upon their favourite 
 Horfes, with all their Armour, and all the Orna- 
 ments they ufed in Turnaments. They keep al- 
 fo the Skin of a Serpent fifteen foot long, which 
 was taken near Ulm, on the Bank of the Danube. 
 At the End of the Gallery you go into a Chamber 
 filled with Spoils and Arms taken from the Turks. 
 A BaJJa , and an Aga of the Januaries, are repre* 
 fented on their Horfes, with the fame Equipage 
 they had when they were taken. Their Habits 
 are very rich ; and the Harnefs cf their Horfes is 
 yet much richer ♦, they are loaded with Orna- 
 ments of Gold and Silver, Precious-Stones, Da- 
 mafk- works, and other Arabian Embellifhments. 
 
 From this they brought us into another Galle- 
 ry, in which is a double Row of large Cup- *SomePerfon$ 
 boards, which are joined by the Backs and Sides, wll ° * re 
 and fill the Middle of the Gallery, even to the benighted, < 5 10 
 Top *, fo that there is but a narrow Space left to were furpriz’d 
 walk round. The three firfb Cupboards are all at this Paflage. 
 of Works of Alabafter, Glafs, Coral, and mo- ^ 0 ^Alnl°er^ 
 ther of Pearl. In the fourth are Medals and ^^/SasaSub- 
 Coins of Gold and Silver. The fifth is garni fhed ftancevcry un- 
 with VefTels of Porcelane, and fealed Earth. In t0 be 
 the fixth are feveral little Cabinets very rich, of bYftcks Vhey 
 curious inlaid Work *, the Boxes are full of Me- imagine, that 
 
 dais, and little Pieces of Work in Agat and * Am- ’tis always 
 
 found in very 
 
 fmall Pieces. In Anfwer to this Objection, I fhall only obferve, firft, That 
 what I fay is certain Matter of Fad, and consequently ought not to be difputed : 
 And in the fecond Place, that thefe Gentlemen are miftaken in their Notion of 
 Ambergreafe . For Gracius de Horro , a Portuguefe Phyfician, allures us, that 
 he faw a Piece of it, which weighed fifteen Pounds. M. de la Nauche, a 
 curious and learned Perfon, fpeaks of much larger Pieces, in a Difcourfe which 
 he wrote on this Subject, and quotes his Authors both ancient and modern. 
 And M. Souchu de Rennefort , in the Defcription of Madagafcar> which he 
 publifhed in 1688, fays, that there was a Piece of Ambergreafe found in that 
 Ifland, which weighed 1 8 Ounces. Befides, I fee no Reafon, why this Sub- 
 fiance fhould be reckoned unfit to be wrought, out of Cviriofity, for indeed 
 there is no Beauty in it, neither is it capable of being well polilhed. 
 
 bergreafe 
 
A m r a s. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 iergreafe . There are alfo feven great Volumes co- 
 vered ‘with black Velvet, with Plates and Clafps 
 of Silver ; and inflead of Leaves they contain 
 flat Boxes, in which there is a great Number of 
 Medals, fo that thefe feven Volumns contain a 
 compleat Hiflory. In the leventh Cupboard are 
 ancient and curious fmall Sorts of Arms. I took 
 notice of a Crofs-bow which has four and thir- 
 ty Bows, and difcharges thirty four Arrows at 
 once. The eighth is full of Animals, Plants, 
 and other Productions of Nature. That which 
 is efteemed the greateft Rarity, is thePIorn of an 
 Ox, which is almoft fix Inches in Diameter. 
 There are alfo Works in Wood, Ivory, and Fea- 
 thers, in the three following Cupboards. The 
 twelfth is filled with Manufcripts, and curious 
 Books. It would grieve one to pafs this over 
 flightly, not only becaufe thofe who fhew it 
 know not it’s Worth, but becaufe one has not 
 time enough, without flaying there a while, to 
 enter into a particular Examination of them. In 
 the thirteenth are only Works of Steel, and par- 
 ticularly myfterious Padlocks, and other Locks 
 of a curious Invention. In the fourteenth we 
 faw Stones which reprefent Trees, Fruits, Shells, 
 and Animals •, all which are the pure ProduCt of 
 Nature. The fifteenth and fixteenth are full of 
 all forts of Clock-work, and Inftruments of Mu- 
 fick. That which follows is full of divers forts of 
 Stones, but unwrought, and a great Quantity of 
 unprepared Metals and Minerals. In the eigh- 
 teenth are many fmall Veffels of different Mate- 
 rials, and a very great Number of very fine 
 Shells. The nineteenth is the mofl precious of 
 all, it is full of Veffels of Gold, Cryftal, Agat, 
 Chalcedony, Onyx, Cornelian, Lapis Lazuli , 
 and other precious Stones *, the whole enriched 
 with Gold, Diamonds, and Pearls, and adorned 
 
 with 
 
l 7 t 
 
 Part I. to ITALY. Amras, 
 
 f with Buffo Relievo's , and other Ornaments of moft 
 curious Workmanfhip. The twentieth, which 
 is the Jaft, is filled with antique Pieces of Work, 
 
 ; fepulchral Lamps, Urns, Idols, &c. They alfo 
 keep here a Piece of a Rope, about the Length 
 I of one’s Hand, which they pretend is a Piece of 
 the Rope with which Judas hanged himfelf. 
 
 There are great Numbers of Things faftned 
 to the Cieling and Walls. They made us take 
 Notice of the Pi&ure of a Man, who,, as they 
 . informed us, received a Wound with a Lance, 
 which pierced the whole Subftance of his Brain, 
 
 | and yet recovered. The Ark of Noah, by Baffin, 
 
 \ is molt efteemed among the Pidlures, and’tis 
 really a very good Piece. They fay the laft great 
 Duke of Tufcany would have given an hundred 
 thoufand Crowns for it. But the People that 
 Ihew thefe Cabinets, have accultomed them- 
 felves to fay fuch Things ; and ’tis one of their 
 ufual Ways of boafling of the Rarities they 
 fhew. Befides the Medals which I mentioned 
 before, and whofe Number is extreamly great, 
 there is above a large Mule’s Load, that lie hud- 
 dled together in a Cheft ; from whence we may 
 fafely conclude, that there is not one of them va- 
 luable for it’s Scarcity. When we parted from 
 hence they brought us to the Library, which 
 we found in very bad Order; and our Guide 
 could give us no Information of it. From the 
 Library we palled into a Gallery, where there 
 is a great Number of Statues, Bulls, and other 
 Pieces of Antiquity ; and we faw afterwards 
 feveral Chambers hung round with very good 
 Pidlures. 
 
 This Account is fomewhat long and particu- 
 lar, but I hope it will not feem tedious to you. 
 
 I mull not forget to tell you of a Servant at our At the Golden 
 Inn, who deferves to be ranked with thefe Ra- Hart, 
 
 rities. 
 
G r u s s. A New Voyage V ol. I. 
 
 rities. This Fellow flretches his Arm on the 
 Ground, and a Man of good Stature ftands upon 
 his Hand he lifts him up with this Hand only, 
 and carries him from one End of the Room to 
 the other. I am , 
 
 Infpruck. 
 
 Dec. 7. 1687 . 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Tour , &c. 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 SIR* 
 
 A SMALL League from Infpruck, we en- 
 tered again into the Mountains, and for 
 feven Hours together did nothing but afcend ; 
 this was the raoft troublefome Day’s Journey we 
 have yet met with. A Place feemed to us to be 
 among the Clouds, which a little while after 
 we law below us. At length we arrived very 
 late at a little Village, but were not yet come 
 to the Top of the Mountain. It is called Grufs , 
 that is, the Salutation ; and it was fo named be- 
 caufe Charles V, and Ferdinand his Brother, met 
 in that Place. As Charles returned from his Co- 
 ronation at Rome , Ferdinand fet out from Infpruck, 
 purpofely to meet him, and they both met there. 
 The Story is defcribed and reprefented on a 
 Piece* of Marble or Brafs, with fome BaJJb Re- 
 lievo's, careiefsly enough fixed upon a Column, 
 near the Highway. ’Twas fo cold when 
 I went by it, that I did not think fit to Hop 
 there ; wherefore you fee I give you a very 
 imperfect Defcription of this Monument *, which 
 indeed, to fpeak freely, fignifies but little ; 
 for what is it to us 3 what they relate in that 
 
 Infcription ? 
 
*73 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Brennerberg. 
 
 Infcription ? However here it is, without any- 
 pointing, juft as our Landlord at Stertzingen gave 
 it me : 
 
 Imp. Caf. Carolo V. P. F. Aug. ex Htfpamis 
 Italiaque fufceptis lmperialibus Coronis advenienti 
 & Ferdinando Hung. Bohemiceque Regi e Panno- 
 niis occurrenti Optimis Principibus ad perpetuam 
 public ce Icetitice Memoriam , quod Fratres ante Ann . 
 viii digrejfi fummis inter mor talcs Honortbus , Regms y 
 Iriumphis audit y hoc in loco Salvi fofpitefque conve- 
 ner tint Anno falutis 1530 Franzius a Monte 
 niveo Stenaci P reef eft. Mandaio Regio F. C. 
 
 We had for Supper divers Sorts of wild Fowl 
 andVenifon : Almoft all the Hares here, as well 
 as the Foxes and Bears, are white ; the Par- 
 tridges are likewife fo for the moft Part. There 
 { are a great many Heath-Hens, Pheafants, and 
 another large Fowl, which they call Schenhahn y 
 or Cock of the Snow. All thefe Sorts of wild 
 Fowl have their Feet velvetted about the Claws, 
 with a Kind of Furr ; which, cannot be called 
 either Hair or Feathers, but is fo thick as the 
 Snow cannot pierce it. 
 
 The Mountain is called Brennerberg , which 
 fignifies an inflamed Hill; and the Reafon is, 
 that belides the Thunders which are frequent in 
 Summer, fometimes it fends forth piercing and 
 burning Winds, which force themfelves into the 
 Vallies or Paflages of the neighbouring Moun- 
 tains, as into Pipes or Canals ; and thefe various 
 Torrents of the Air fhock one another fo impe- 
 tuoufly, that they produce roaring and furious 
 Hurricanes, which tear up both Rocks and Trees 
 by the Roots ; 
 
 Cui nive tinfta coma eft glacie riget afpera Barba , 
 
 fays 
 
m 
 
 Brixen. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 fays a Poet of that Country : They fay, that 
 Travellers are fometimes conftrained to wait 
 many Days till thefe Storms are over. As for 
 us, we left our difmal Lodging the next Day, 
 and about two Hours after came to the higheil 
 acceffible Part of the Mountain. There we faw 
 a large Spring which falls upon a Rock, and 
 ftraightway feparates itfelf into two Currents, 
 which in a little Time after become two pretty 
 large Rivers. The one turns to the South, and 
 difgorges itfelf into the Inn, near Infpruck . The 
 other runs northward, and after it has palled 
 by Brixen and Bolfane , falls into the Adige, a lit- 
 tle above ’Trent. We dined the fame Day at 
 Stertzingen , a little Town, where they gave us 
 bad Oyfters of Venice , and fome Flefh of a cer- 
 tain Beaft called Steinbokt y which is fomewhat 
 like a wild Goat and a Doe, and is moft deli- 
 cate Food. At this Town we left the dired 
 Way to Trent , becaufe it is dangerous, by rea- 
 son of the Precipices, and took that of BrI 
 xen 9 which is not fo rough, and therefore more 
 frequented. 
 
 This Day we met more than an hundred Wag- 
 gons coming from the Fair of Bolfane y and they 
 were almoft all drawn by Oxen. I obferved, 
 that the cloven Feet of thefe Beafts were fhod 
 with two Pieces of Iron. The Peafants of thefe 
 Mountains have little Carts with two Wheels, 
 which they draw themfelves, and which they 
 make ufe of to fetch Salt from Hall y which is 
 a little City in the Valley of Infpruck . There 
 are brackifh Springs there, the Water whereof 
 being boiled, turns to Salt. 
 
 The Habits of the Mountaineers are very 
 odd : Some of them have green, others yellow 
 and blue Hats ; and in fome Places it is difficult 
 to difcern the Men from the Women. But as 
 
 we 
 
*75 
 
 Part I. to ITALY. Brixen. 
 
 we change Countries, we may in every Thing 
 obferve the Variety that reigns in the World. 
 
 We find not only new Languages, and new Cu- 
 ftoms, but alfo new Plants, new Fruits, new 
 Animals, and a new Face of the Earth. Almoft 
 quite throughout Tirol , the Sheep are black ; in 
 fome Places they are of a red Tawny, and in * Mosany: re- 
 others altogether white. There are fome Pro- lates, that 
 vinces in which they have * Horns ; and others, when he was 
 where a horned Sheep would be looked upon ^ ? L n ° 0 n ^ 
 as a Monfter. And many other fuch Differences ’ twas ibferved 
 may be obferved in Beafts of the fame Kind : by the Royal 
 Nor are the Humour of Men without their Society, that 
 Varieties. Not to leave the Example of Sheep ; 
 
 I know fome Provinces, as that of Poiftou, where Grounds, as in 
 the Milk of thefe Creatures is preferred before fome Parts of 
 that of the Cows. In moft other Places, they have 
 
 will not trouble themfelves to milk them, fo ™ leai^very 1 " 
 little do they value their Milk. I once lived a fmallones; 
 confiderable while in a Country, where, when that thofe who 
 a Sow pigs, if there be any white ones they ^ 
 drown them, becaufe they believe, that all the Grounds g have 
 white Pigs are mangy. I have been alfo in large Horns, 
 another Country, where black Hogs are lefs and even fome- 
 efteemed than thofe of other Colours. In Nor - -and** 
 
 mandy the Milk of a black Cow is looked on as that when 
 a fpecifick Remedy and the Phyficians pre- they are car- 
 fcribe it for fuch, perhaps becaufe the black ^ ed from one 
 Cows are lefs common than the red. And in o^er^he^izes 
 fome Places of your Country it is quite con- 0 f their Horns 
 
 trary ; for the red Cows Milk is moft efteemed, change accord - 
 becaufe the Cows are almoft all black. Some in & to r t ^ e ( ?^ a ' 
 can endure to look on nothing but what they j{ eXm 
 are accuftomed to fee ; and others value nothing relates in his 
 
 Collection of 
 
 divers Thoughts, that horned Animals are Gregali, that is, Herd together. 
 Males and Females, in common ; and this is the Reafon, adds he, why Horns 
 are aferibed to thofe whofe Wives imitate the Freedom of thofe Animals. 
 
 f Montague fays, the Tartan prefer Mare’sMilk to all other Milk. 
 
 but 
 
I 
 
 176 
 
 B R I X E N. 
 
 Sublavio. 
 Gregory VII, 
 the famous 
 Hildebrand , 
 that turbulent 
 and. haughty 
 Pope, was de- 
 pofed here. 
 Anno io8o. 
 He was the 
 Son of a Car- 
 penter. 
 
 Brixen. A New Voyage Vol. t. 
 
 but what is rare and uncommon. Cudom and 
 Prejudice are the Tyrants that govern the 
 World, and fantadical Humour reigns every 
 where with them. 
 
 BRIXEN is dill in the Tirol : That little City 
 is a Bifhoprick, and the Bifhop refides in it. I 
 cannot tell you the Reafon why the bell Lodg- 
 ings in this Country are always in the upper- 
 mod Story. 5 Tis true, that there you are lefs 
 troubled with Noife, but the Trouble to get up 
 to them is a great Inconveniency. 
 
 Since I have not much to fay of Brixen , I 
 will take this Occafion to give you an Account 
 of a Picture which I obferved in the great !j 
 Church. 5 Tis an old Piece of Painting faden’d I 
 to the Wall in a dark Place *, but the Oddnefs I 
 of the Defign made me take particular Notice 
 of it. God the Father appears above, in Heaven, 
 furrounded with Angels and Cherubims. Be- 
 neath him is the Holy Ghofb, in Form of a Dove, 
 and feems to prefide over what is done below. 
 Jefus Chrift makes the Blood ftream out of his 1 
 Side *, which falls into a large Bafon. The Vir- ( 
 gin preffes her Bread, and makes her Milk i 
 
 gufh out, which falls into the fame Velfei. 1 
 
 The Mixture of thefe facred Liquors runs over, 
 and falls into a fecond Bafon ; and from thence > 
 thro* feveral other Places into a Lake of Fire, 1 
 where the Souls in Purgatory drive to catch 
 it, and are refrefhed and comforted by it. The 
 following Verfes are written in a Corner of the I 
 Pidture. 
 
 D um fluit e Chrifti benediolo vulnere fanguis> 
 
 Et dum Virgineum lac pa Virgo premit *, 
 
 Lac fluit & fanguis , flanguis conjungitur & lac , 
 
 Et fit Jons vitce^ font £s? origo bonu 1 
 
 Bt 
 
Parti. ^ ITALY. Bolsane. , 
 
 Fit forts ex cujiis virtutibui atqae v'alore, 
 
 ( Nobis offenji tollitur ira Dei. 
 
 Fit forts , quern currens Ccsleftis Spiritus , inde 
 Exult arts animo , gaudia mill e trahit. 
 
 Fit fons qui totum a peccatis abluit Orbem , 
 
 Et quo mundatur commaculatus homo. 
 
 Fit fons qui multum cunftos refrigerat illos , 
 ffuos Orci purgans fiamma fitire facit. 
 
 Forrente voluptatis tuce pctabis eos . 
 
 Pfal. xxxv. 
 
 You rnuft not be furprized tb find the Vir- 
 I gin’s Milk joined, and equally refpedted with 
 the Blood of cili* Saviour •, fince her Devoto’s 
 I fcruple not to fay, that more are faved by the 
 t Name of Mary , than by the Name of Jefus. 
 From Brixen to Bolfane , which are but leveri 
 Hours diftant, the Way lies almoft wholly be- 
 tween the River and the Mountains. Here the 
 Rocks are fo high, that they pierce the Clouds ; 
 and when the Snow melts, or a fudden Thaw 
 comes, it occ&fions fuch a tumbling of the Rocks 
 as makes the Way very dangerous. A Traveller 
 is pent up there as in a Streight, and in feveral 
 Places has not Room enough to go either for- 
 
 I ward or backward, without great Danger, which 
 threatens him equally either Way. The Acci- 
 dents which happen, and the Coaches which 
 I are over-turned fo often in thefe uneven Waysj 
 I have occafioned the Building; of the little Ora- 
 I tories which we met with fo frequently on the 
 Road. There they paint the Story of their Mif- 
 f fortunes : And in the Prdlure you may fee every 
 one invoking that Saint, or that Noftredame , 
 
 [ in which they place moft Confidence : For fuch 
 an one has a profound Veneration for our Ladv 
 Vol. h N of 
 
178 Bolsane. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 of fuch a Place, who would not beftow one 
 Wax candle upon all the reft. When any one is 
 grievoully wounded, or killed, there is nothing 
 for either He or She- Saint ; blit they who have 
 the good Fortune to efcape, eredl thefe little 
 Monuments I mentioned, after the fame Man- 
 ner that fome Churches are filled with Prefents, 
 which are ufually called Vows. Thofe who are 
 in any Kind of Danger, implore either their 
 Saint or their Relick, or their miraculous Image. 
 If they are delivered they call their Prefervation 
 a Miracle, and accomplifh their Vows. So, there 
 have been already more than a Cart-load of 
 Heads, Arms, and other Members of Silver, 
 offered to our new Lady of Newburg : And there 
 are feveral other large Churches hung round 
 with the like Monuments. They every Day 
 bring new ones, and the old, being put to another 
 Ufe, give Place to them •, for you may be fure 
 there is nothing loft. 
 
 When we entred into the Valley of Bolfane , 
 we were allonifhed to find the Air fweet and 
 temperate. The Vineyards were all green, as 
 well as the Willows, Rofes, Mulberries, and 
 many other Trees and Shrubs. A true Spring 
 in the Middle of Winter, and in the Mid- 
 dle of Snows. This proceeds from it’s being 
 iheltered from 111- winds, and, it may be, fome 
 other Circumftance in the Difpofition of the 
 Ground . 
 
 BOLSANE. BOLSANE is in the Bifhoprick of Trent. This 
 very little City has hardly any thing remarkable 
 in it, for what I know, but it’s Fairs. There are 
 four every Year, and each lafts fifteen Days ; 
 during which the Commodities of Germany and 
 Italy are exchanged. W'e observed in the Roof 
 of the Nave or Body of the great Church, a 
 
 round 
 
Part I. ITALY. Trent. 179 
 
 round Hole about three Foot in Diameter ; en- 
 compafled with a kind of Garland tied with 
 Ribbons of feveral Colours, at which hang a 
 great Number of large Wafers. They told us, 
 that on Afcenfion-Day, there is a kind of Opera 
 reprefented in this Church, and that a Man who 
 reprefents Jefus Chris! , is lifted up to Heaven 
 thro’ this Hole. 
 
 All the Valley of Bolfane is full of Vineyards, 
 and the Wine is much efteemed by the People 
 of the Country ; but we Frenchmen are not 
 much pleafed with it, becaufe of it’s fweetifh 
 Tafte. It is a good Days Journey from Bol- 
 fane to Trent, through the Valley which is very 
 fruitful and pleafant. From Place to Place, near 
 the Vines, are little Huts of Straw, which are 
 fupported by the three high Firr-Poles, placed like 
 a Trevet •, they hide themfelves with a Carbine, 
 in one of thefe little Huts, and kill the Bears 
 which come down from the Mountains to devour 
 the Grapes. 
 
 TRENT is a little City, not much more confi- TRENT, 
 derable than Bolfane , and is almolt fituated after Scrivono alcu- 
 the fame Manner. ’Tis founded on a flat Rock, n1 ’ comerefe- 
 of a kind of white and reddifh Marble ; of which Mantuano Tid 
 moft of the Houfes are built. This City hath libro de Geitis 
 been feveral Times laid wafte, by the Inunda- Ducum Tri- 
 tions to which it is fubjedt. The River often ac “ 
 
 over-flows, and the Brooks of Levis and Ferfena , nome Tri- 
 tumble fometimes from the Mountains with fuch dento, da tre 
 a terrible Impetuofity, that they drive before Torrenti,quali 
 them great Rocks, and rowl them even into ^0^^ 4 fto 
 the Town. Jerom Fracaftorius Phyfician to the i U0g0i ficome 
 Fathers of the Council, infilled, at the Pope’s fi dicefle luogo 
 Inftigation, upon the Badnefs of the Air, when dl tre torretiti, 
 the Queftion concerning the Removal of the ’ 
 
 Council to Boulognia was in Difpute ; but there Trevigiana, 
 was good Reafon, if I may give Credit to thofe 
 
 N 2 that 
 
i8o 
 
 Trent. A New Voyage Yol, I. 
 
 that have informed me here about that Affair* 
 that the Emperor’s Friends were not in the leaff 
 Concern about that pretended Danger. Trent is 
 encompaffed with a fingle Wall, and the Adige 
 runs by the Side of it. They boaft of the Bridge 
 which is built over this River, tho’ there is no- 
 thing extraordinary about it. They magnify 
 alfo the Bifhop’s Palace, as a great and fplendid 
 Edifice ; and I remember I heard the fame 
 Things faid of it before : But thefe Reports had 
 given us a falfe Notion of that Houfe, which is 
 low, and of a very indifferent Size. The Bi- 
 fhop is a temporal and Spiritual Lord in his 
 Diocefe, which is of a large Extent. This Prince 
 was formerly very rich ; but cannot be faid to 
 be fo now. By Virtue of an Agreement betwixt 
 him and the Venetians , thofe whom he con- 
 demns to the Gallies, are fent aboard their Vef- 
 fels ; and on the Contrary he is permitted to 
 export a certain Quantity of Oil out of their 
 Country, without paying Cuftom. Some place 
 Trent in Italy , others make it Part of Tirol: But 
 the latter are miftaken, if we may believe an- 
 cient Geographers and the People of the Coun- 
 try ; for they fay 'Trent is in Italy ; tho’ the Bi- 
 fhop is a Prince of the Empire ; yet the com- 
 mon Language of Trent is the Italian . 
 
 They fhewed us in a Chapel of the Cathe- 
 dral, the Crucifix, Sub quo jurata & promulgates 
 fuit Synodus : It is as big as the Life, and, they 
 fay, it bowed it’s Head, to teftify the Appro- 
 bation which it gave to the Decrees of that 
 Affembly. They add. That no Man ever could 
 this Church m difeover what it is made of; fo that many doubt, 
 fpme Relicks whether it was made with Hands. They are 
 of St Fir gilt us 
 
 Bifihop of Trent , who fuffered very much, having been accufed of Herefy, 
 for laying, he really believed there were Antipodes, 
 
 going 
 
Part I. A? I T A L Y. Trent. 18 i 
 
 going to take it from the dark 'Place in which 
 we faw it, and to fet it in a magnificent Cha- 
 pel, which will fhortly be finifh’d ; where they 
 expetd it will do more Miracles than ever : It is 
 call’d, by way of Eminency, The Holy Crucifix . 
 
 From thence we went to St Mary Major ; which, 
 notwithstanding it’s Title, is but a little Church. 
 
 ’Tis built of a Kind of bafe Marble, and it was 
 in this Place where the Council kite. The Or- 
 gans of this Church are extraordinarily large. 
 
 They played to us many Ayres, and counter- 
 feited the Cries of a great many Animals : They 
 imitated the Beating of a Drum, and fhow’d us 
 feveral other Tricks, which were very unfuit- 
 able to the Nature of the Place, and the Gra- 
 vity of the Council which is reprelented in a 
 large Pidture hard by. Afterwards they carried 
 us to the Church of St Peter , to fee the little 
 Saint Simonin in his Chapel. They fay that in 
 the Year 1276, the Jews dole the Child of a Rigor d, Phy- 
 Shoe-maker 28 Months old, whofe Name was ficianand Hi- 
 Simon , and after they had let out all his Blood 
 in a mod cruel manner, to ferve at the Cele- write?, 
 bration of one of their Feads, they threw the that in 1180 
 Carcafs into a Canal, which dill pafTes to the JJ ews 
 the Houfe where the thing was done, and ^ y 
 
 where their Synagogue was at that time, and a nd crucified a 
 that the Body was carried by the Current into Boy of twelve 
 the River, and taken up by Fidier-men. In a Years 
 word, the whole Vi 11 any was difcover’d *, the t j ie 
 
 Jews were convifted, Thirty nine of them 0 f a Citizen ; 
 
 that the Cri- 
 minal: were put to Death ; that all the Jew! were driven out of the King- 
 dom, and young Richard was canonized. R. Dumont , Continuer of the 
 Chronicle of Sigebe-t : Rob. Gaguin, Library-keeper of Louis XII : Du- 
 
 pleix , and many others, report the fame Story. Meztray faith, that Louis 
 Huttin recalled the Jews, and that That Nation being accufed for poiior.ing 
 the Fountains and Wells in the Year i 321, were banffhed for ever by Phi- 
 lip V. The Edict is Itill in force. 
 

 1 82 Trent. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 hanged, and the reft banifhed the City for ever. 
 Sixtus IV, who was then Pope, being informed 
 of the whole Matter, thought fit to canonize 
 the Child, by the Name of Simonin , the dimi- 
 nutive of Simon i the Father’s Name. The Body 
 was embalmed, and is now expofed to View in a 
 Shrine upon the Altar of the Chapel, which 
 is dedicated to him. They keep alfo in an ad- 
 joining Cupboard, the Knife, Pincers, and four 
 great iron Needles, with which his Butchers 
 tormented him ; and two filver Goblets, in 
 which it is laid they drank his Blood. Thus the 
 Jews were expelled : But fome Years after they 
 obtained a Permifiion to remain three Days in 
 the City for Bufmefs. Thefe three Days were 
 reduced to three Hours, becaufe of their Obfti- 
 nacy in defending Buda , during the laft Siege. 
 I have feen the Story of Little Simon painted at 
 Francfort under the Bridge-Gate, to load thefe 
 miferable People who live in that City, with 
 new Reproach ; and they have added other in- 
 famous Figures, where the Devil and Swine are 
 reprefented mocking and laughing at the Jews . 
 I know this Adtion of which they accufe the 
 Jews of Lrent, and which gave Occafion to the 
 prohibiting them from refiding there, has ap- 
 peared too enormous to abundance of People 
 ever to be credited : I have met with fome 
 
 Sorts of Wits, that think it becomes them to re- 
 jedt this whole Story as fabulous : But thofe 
 Perfons are miftaken ; for Fadts that do not 
 imply any Contradiction, how ftrange foever 
 they are, ought not to be rejedted as falfe, up- 
 on the Account of their being ftrange ; and 
 there are fome more extraordinary than this, that 
 are undoubtedly true: ’Tis then the Nature of 
 the Proofs, their Number, and their Authority 
 which muft be examined into. Now to take the 
 
 Thing 
 
1 83 
 
 . 
 
 1 Part I. VITALY. Trent. 
 
 ! Thing upon that Foot, thofe that will give 
 i themfelves the Trouble of confidering the Alle- 
 | gat a and the Probata , as fome Perfons of my Ac- 
 quaintance have done, they will be obliged to 
 own, that the Matter of Fa£t, is fubftantially 
 proved*, or at leaft, they cannot fay, without 
 ipeaking rafhly, that it is not. 
 
 Besides, I fay, that the Murder of this 
 Child is by no Means of the Number of thofe 
 things altogether fo enormous, as to feem con- 
 trary to common Senfe and Reafon : We have 
 every Day fad Examples of Mothers, who to 
 fave their Reputation ftrangle their own Chil- 
 dren : And therefore why fhould we not eafily 
 believe, that a Set of Jews, who on one Hand 
 are full of ridiculous and deteftable Superftitions ; 
 and on the other, eaten up with Malice againft 
 the Chriftians, beneath whofe Feet they behold 
 themfelves trampled, without daring to murmur 
 at it ; why fay I, fhould it appear fo unreafon- 
 able, that they fhould ufe a Creature, whom 
 they profefs to efleem lefs than a Dog, and a- 
 gainft whom their Religion caufes them to make 
 horrid * Imprecations, with the fame Cruelty * Moabitzrum 
 that fo many Mothers themfelves treat the Fruit [f^ hodi^ab 
 of their own Womb ? Or, if one demands other iiiis Chriftiani 
 Examples, with the Inhumanity pra&ifed by appellants,] 
 Chriftians themfelves, in an infinite Number of cidilim^ ’a^Deo 
 too true Maffacres of fucking Children of other efflagitant, nt 
 Chriftians. What dreadful Things are not thofe, terror & an- 
 who are intoxicated with the Fury of a falfe Re- . Gentes 
 
 ligion, capable of performing? and do not we y. 
 
 every Day fee the lamentable Effects of thefe Buxtorf. Sy- * 
 curfed Notions ? nag.Jud.Caf, 
 
 Moreover ; which is moll: probable, either XI * 
 that the Jews, fuch as I have juft now defcribed 
 them [and I could yet fay a great deal more of 
 them] have committed this fuperftitious and cruel 
 N 4 Aft; 
 

 Trent. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Adt ; or that the Chriftians who have driven 
 them out, have made themlelves guilty of the 
 higheft Enormities, in putting Nine and thirty j 
 Qt thofe miferable Wretches to Death? In tor- 
 menting to the higheft Degree their unfortunate \ 
 Families ? And by hellifhly imputing to them 
 fuch heinous Crimes, of which they knew them 
 to be innocent? Does Reafon allow that we fhould 
 charge the Chriftians with fuch execrable Pro- 
 ceedings, purely to excule the Jews, even a- 
 gainft all manner of Probability i fince the def- 
 picable Condition to which thofe unfortunate 
 Jews are reduced, does in every Refpedf give our 
 Princes the full Power of difpofing of them at 
 their Pleafure •, efpecially, when the only Qutf- 
 tion is, whether they fhall or fliall not be fuffered 
 to live in fuch or fuch a Place? Has the Emperor 
 any need of thefe Pretences to drive them either 
 from Trent or elfewhere? And did they not treat 
 us in the fame Manner in France , when they 
 deprived us arbitrarily of our Liberty ? 
 
 But, fay they, why fhould thofe Jews be guil- 
 ty of fuch an A ft ion, fince Mofes has not gi- 
 ven them any fuch Commandment? This Obje- 
 ction fignifies nothing at all *, firft becaufe, as l 
 have already faid, we ought not to difpute a- 
 gainft Fafts that are proved and confirmed. Se- 
 condly, becaufe in a great many Religions, as they 
 call them, there are luperftitious Practices that are 
 monftrous, and for which we muft not expeft 
 thofe that are bigotted to them fhould give any 
 tolerable Reafon. ’Tis not Mofes that has didta- 
 ted to, the Jews all the exceftive Extravagancies 
 of their Oral Law *, neither is it the Evangel ifts 
 that teach fome Chriftians a great many Things 
 which they do and believe, and which indeed are 
 both foolifh and impious. ’Tis beyond doubt that 
 
Parti. VITALY. Trent. 18$ 
 
 the modern Jews have committed other outra- fn Pateitina, 
 gious Attempts of this fame Nature *, why then iontsLiT 
 may they not be gtfilty of this? As for fome dibrium, Vue- 
 certain Variations in the Circumftances of 'the rum Chriftia- 
 Adtions, they are by no Means to be alledged as num ln Cru ‘ 
 Proofs of it’s Falfehood, but rather of the con- mdti^uTver 
 trary as I have obferved already. beribus mifere 
 
 excruciatum 
 
 neci dederunt .Anno, 1250, Puerum feptem annorum, in Pafchate, 
 
 Cruci affixum, lancea in pe&us contorta, occiderunt. [in Arragonia.] — Si- 
 mile facinus ab ipiis commifllim Tridcnti, circa Ann. 1475 & Bernae in Hel- 
 vetia 1287. Puteos veneno infecerunt in Provincia Narbonenfi, An. 1322. 
 Ejuidem fceleris convi&i funt, An 1349 Argentorati, Bafileae, Bernse. Zo- 
 phingse, [& Noriberga\ ubi meritas pcenas dederunt, &c. Ant. Hulfius in 
 his Treadle de Theologia Judaica, Lib.l. Part'll Pages 415, 416, 417, of 
 the Breda Edition, 1653, relates fever al other Cruelties that have been com- 
 mitted by thel'e People See alio the Hiftorical Meditations of Phil. Camera - 
 rius , Book III. Chap ii. See Rob. G again , and all the French HillorianSj 
 in the Reign of Philip Augujlus ; how they crucified feveral Children. See 
 Stow's Englijh Chronicle. See alfo Mr Ba/nage's Hiltory of the Jews, 
 Page 5 1 • of the firft Edition, and the Bibliotheque Critique of Mr 5 . Jore t 
 Tom. i. Page 109. he Paris Ancien IS Nouveau of Mr Le Maire, Tom. E 
 Page 406. Les Hift. Trag. of Boaijluau, Page 58. 
 
 I remember the two laft Verfes of an Epi- 
 taph on the Tomb of a young Lady, that I 
 have obferved in the Church of St Mark : I be- 
 lieve they will not difpleafe you : This young 
 Wife fays to her Hufband, 
 
 Immatura -peri, fed Tu diuturnior annoi 
 Vive meos , Cotijux optime , vive tuos . 
 
 I am, 
 
 Trent , Dec. Q t z> 
 
 13, 1687. o 1 K 9 
 
 Tour, &c. 
 
 LETTER 
 
Roveredo. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 1S6 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 ROVE RE- \\J E P a ^ e d through the little City of Rover e- 
 DO. Robore- * * do, where they drive a pretty Trade in 
 turn. Silk. Bourguetto is not far off, which is the leaft 
 
 Village of the Bifhoprick of 'Trent , and Offenigo 
 the firft of the State of Venice : A little wooden 
 Crofs is the Boundary of thefe two Sovereign- 
 ties. A little on this Side Roveredo , we travelled 
 through a Country full of loofe Rocks, fcattered 
 here and there, as if an Earthquake had thus 
 fowed them from the Ruins of fome Mountain : 
 This is called the Wood of Roveredo , tho’ there is 
 not fo much as the Branch of a Tree in it. The 
 Paffage is fometimes dangerous, by reafon of 
 Thieves, as well as the Foreft of Vergnara , which 
 is between OJfenigo and the Fort of Guardara . 
 Our Vetturino advifed us to take fome Guards in 
 this lad Paffage *, rather I believe to get fome- 
 thing for them, than to defend us againff any 
 Danger. After we entered into the State of Ve- 
 nice, we found no more of thofe Stoves, of which 
 Germany is full ; and we obferved a fenfible Al- 
 teration in a great many Things. 
 
 CHIU S A. We were obliged to lodge in a little Village 
 called Seraino , becaufe it was too late to pafs at 
 the Clufe. This is a confiderable Fort, the Situa- 
 tion of which refembles that of the fame Name 
 between Geneva and Lyons, on the River Rhofne . 
 The firft is at the Foot of an high Rock ; the 
 
 Way 
 
187 
 
 Parti, /c ITALY. Verona. 
 
 Way which leads to it, is dug out of the fteep 
 Side of the fame Rock ; and on the other Side 
 is a Precipice, at the bottom of which rowls the 
 Adige. After we had palled by this Fort, and 
 had for fome Time followed the Banks of that 
 River, which glides along betwixt high Rocks, 
 the ProfpeCt began to open, and we entred into 
 a vaft Plain ; whereas ever fmce our Departure 
 from Munich , we had been clofed between the 
 Mountains. 
 
 This Plain is (tony and barren in divers Places. 
 
 There are in it fome Olive-Trees, and white 
 Mulberries for the Silk- worms. The Vines are 
 
 planted at the Foot of Cherry-trees, and young 
 Elms, and creep from Tree to Tree. We pafied 
 the Adige in a Ferry-boat, two large Leagues 
 from Seraino ; and a Quarter of an Hour after, 
 we could diftinCtly perceive Verona , where we VERONA, 
 arrived the fame Day. By what we faw at our 
 Entrance into it, we judged it to be but thinly 
 peopled ; there being great void Places on that 
 Side, and Grafs growing in the Streets, which for 
 the greateft Part are not paved. ’Tis true the 
 Reft of the City is not like this Part ; yet put- 
 ting all together, Verona looks like a poor Place ; 
 and indeed there is but little Trade in it, and 
 ! thofe who live on their Eftates make no great 
 Figure. If there be fome fine Buildings, 5 tis 
 t certain, that the Houfes in general are very low 
 and uneven. The greateft Part have Balconies 
 of Wood, fo loaded with little Gardens full of 
 Pots, that it feems dangerous to walk under 
 them. The Streets are dirty, and almoft all nar- 
 row. In a Word, This City is not at all fit to 
 pleafe the Eyes of a Traveller at the firft Sight; 
 Neverthelefs, it is very large, in a good Air, and 
 ; it’s Situation is very fine. It yields but little 
 
 Satisfaction 
 
iSS 
 
 Verona. A New Voyage 
 Satisfaction when you behold it near, 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 and take 
 
 a particular View of it when you are walking in 
 the Streets •, but you admire it, when you look 
 upon it from fome Eminency. W e went up to 
 * Ere&ed on the * Cattle of St Peter , which is on a rifing 
 the Ruins of a Ground, within the Compafs of the Walls, where 
 we had a full Profpect of it, and were charmed 
 to behold that admirable Garden of Pleafure, in, 
 the midft of which it is feated. The Adige runs 
 through it, and four fair Stone Bridges make the 
 Communication between the two Parts, into 
 which the River divides it. The f Cattle of St 
 Felix is behind that of St Peter , and both toge- 
 ther command the City. The other Fortifications 
 of this Place are much neglefted, and very irre- 
 gular. 
 
 Theatre that 
 was built by 
 the Old Be~ 
 renger. Vid. 
 Lukprandum 
 Ticinenfem, 
 & Omtfriura 
 Panvinium. 
 
 *f- Begun by 
 ’John Gale as 
 after the Ex- 
 clufion of the 
 
 Scaligm ; and finilhed by the Venetians . 
 
 The Amphitheatre of Verona is a Thing fo 
 IjThe outward muc h the more furprizing, becaufe we do not fre- j 
 Wall or Front quently meet with fuch Monuments of Antiquity. 
 Itremainsbut || The Inclofure is almoft wholly deftroyed, but 
 they have taken Care to repair the Benches, accor- 
 Panvinius re- ding as they fell to Decay, there are four and 
 lates that that forty of them, and I counted five hundred and 
 Part was over- thirty Paces in the highett round, and two hun- 
 Eanh^ake 311 ^ re< ^ an ^ hfty in the loweft. Anthony Dejgcdetz , ' 
 See the De- a Dcilful Architect, writes, that the longett Dia- 
 fcription J. meter of the Arena , is Two hundred and thirty 
 Car-otus made three Foot of § French Meafure, and the Shorteft 
 phitheatre m " or Breadth One hundred and thirty fix Foot and 
 eight Inches. That the Thicknefs of the Build- 
 $ Thirteen i n g> without reckoning the external Corridor, a- 
 Eng/ijh Miles mounts to an hundred Foot and four Inches, and 
 make twelve with the Corridor and Wall, to an Hundred and 
 or*T ^oofof 5 twent y Foot, an d ten Inches. Infomuch that the 
 Prench-Y oot. Length of the whole amounts exacftly to Four 
 
 hundred 
 
Part I. VITALY. Verona. 1S9 
 
 hundred and feventy four Foot and eight Inches. *OneFootand 
 Every Step is * near a Foot and an half high, three Inches of 
 and about f twenty fix Inches in Breadth : This French Mea- 
 laft Diftance could not be lefs, that thofe who 
 late behind might not be troublefome to the j. Two Foot 
 others with their Feet. At each End of the A- and a half ac- 
 rena , between the Benches, there is a Gate twen- cording to Def- 
 ty five Foot high, which is the Entrance to the s^^th a t^the 
 Arena out of the Street *, and above every Gate i 0 i V e r Seat is 
 a kind of Tribune or Platform twenty Foot long, two Foot and 
 and ten broad, enclofed before and on the Sides an half high. I 
 with Balilters of Marble. || It is commonly faid, ^finlTforty 
 that this was the Work of Augujlus, or at leaft feven Seats or 
 built under his Reign ; but I find no Proof of it. Steps marked 
 It remains ftill at Verona a triumphal § Arch, j? Figure ; 
 with fome Ruins of ancient Monuments. there are-no 1 * 
 
 more than for- 
 ty four. I counted ’em twice, and in two feveral Places. The Heighth of 
 the whole according to the fame Author, amounts to ninety three Feet, feven 
 Inches and a half. See the little Treatife which JuJius Lipjius wrote of 
 Amphitheatres. 
 
 || Others attribute it to the Emperor Maximin. 
 
 $ The Infcription of this Arch cannot be read : ’Tis thus related by N. 
 Vignier , in his Hiftorical Library. Colonia Augufta Verona Gallieniana. 
 Valeriano IJ. & Lucilio Cofs. Muri Veronenfium Fabricari, & die III. 
 Non. April, dedicati, prid. Non. Decemb. jubente fanftiffimo Galjieno. 
 Aug. N. 
 
 The Cathedral is a little dark Church. 
 
 Pope Lucius III is interred there •, and the Epi- 
 taph on his Tomb-ftone is only this, OJfa Lacii III, 
 
 Roma pulfus invidid. I expected to have found 
 another, which is more ingenious, and which I 
 remember 1 have read fome where : 
 
 Luca dedit tibi Lucem , I,uci \ Pontificatum 
 Ofiia ; Papatum , Roma '■> Verona , moru 
 
 Immo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia *, Roma , 
 
 Exilium ; curds, Ojtia *, Luca^ moru 
 
 Yor 
 
igo Verona. A New Voyage VoL I. 
 
 You know this Pope had great Broils with 
 Frederick Barbarojjd , as well as Alexander III, his 
 PredecefTor. But this was not the only Caufe of 
 his leaving Rome : He was driven out by the Ma~ 
 giftrates, and by the * People, becaufe he en- 
 deavoured to play the Tyrant. 
 
 * Lucius eft pifcis Rex atque Tyrannus aquarum, 
 
 A quo difcordat Lucius ifte parum. 
 pevorat ille Homines, hie Pifcibus inftdiatur : 
 
 Efurit hie Temper, ille aliquando fatur. 
 
 Amborum vitam ft la us aequata notaret. 
 
 Plus rationis habet, qui ratione caret. 
 
 Father Mabil- ’Tisfaid, that Pepin ^ the Son of Charlemagne , 
 
 Ion fays, that and King of Italy , built the Church of St Zeno 
 
 HedTn^he at ^ erona * ^ confefied, the Sculptors 
 
 fam e m Church. °f ^ iat Age were tniferable Artifts. Never were 
 there feen fuch wretched Figures as thefe in the 
 Several Wri- -Front of this Church. I obferved in the Fron- 
 ted of Chroni- tifpiece of the great Gate, two Sorts of Birds, 
 cles relate, that which by their Combs fomewhat refemble Cocks. 
 Re^n ofV<?/2- The y h°ld an Animal having a long Tail be- ( 
 j aSj about the tween them, which we fufpe&ed was defigned 
 middle of the to reprefent a Fox. This poor Beaft had his Feet 
 tied together, and hung upon a Pole, the Ends 
 a fhHouHnun- °* are Supported by the Cocks. I could 
 
 dation of the not forbear fearching into the Meaning of this 
 Adige, . which little Myftery *, and if you pleafe, I will ven- 
 ofeml m u f °on 1 " ture t0 te ^ y ou Thoughts of it. The Allufi- 
 theCity of °Fe- on Gallus, a Cock, to G alius ^ a Frenchman , is 
 rona, that the a thing fo familiar, that I fanfy the two Cocks 
 Water afeend- ma y fignify two Frenchtnen •, and the Animal 
 
 eftWindowsof ^ iUS bound, mu ^ f° me crafty Fellow, cheated 
 the Church of neverthelefs, and fupplanted by the Cocks,- 
 St Zeno. From 
 
 whence we mull conclude, that there was a Church dedicated to the pretended 
 StZeno, in the fourth Age, either in that Place, or fome other of the City, be- 
 fore Pepin built this ; becaufe Pot Has lived a great while before him. 
 
 The 
 
I 9 I 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Verona! 
 
 The filly Crane hath fometimes fupplanted the cun- 
 ning Renard. But to apply this Emblem to fome 
 particular Event : Suopofing it to be true, that 
 this prefent Church was built under Pepin , as it 
 feems very probable, it may be conje&ured, that 
 his Father Charlemagne and he were the two Cocks; 
 and that the unfortunate Didier , the laft King of 
 the Lombards , was the Fox : You know Charle- 
 magne caufed himfelf to be crowned King of the 
 Lombards , foon after he had difpo fife fled Didier , 
 who was fliaven, and put into a Convent, and 
 may be very naturally fuppofed to be reprefented 
 by the Fox. Or the fame Emblem may be ap- 
 plied to his Son, whofe Name, I think, was Adal- 
 gife 9 who was at laft taken and killed, after he had 
 vainly employed all his Wit and Force to regain 
 the Pofleflion of his Father’s Dominions. ’Tis 
 not probable, that Charlemagne would amufe him- 
 felf with fuch a Trifle, but it might perhaps be 
 the Fancy of the Sculptor. On the Side of the 
 fame Gate where they have put this fine Hiero- 
 glyphick, there is a Man on Horfe-back in Baf- 
 fo Relievo , over whom thefe three Verfes are 
 written in Chara&ers that are half Roman , and 
 half Gothick: 
 
 O Regem ftultum , petit infer nale tributum : 
 
 Moxque par atur equus , quern mifitDcemon iniquus ; 
 
 Exit aqua nudus , petit lnfera non rediturus . 
 
 Tho’ I have given you fome Conje&ures con- 
 cerning the Fox, I confefs I can guefs nothing of 
 the Devil’s Horfe. 
 
 Returning from thence, we pafied by the 
 little Church called Sanfta Maria Antica , near 
 which there are feveral magnificent Tombs of 
 the Scaligersy who were Princes of Verona , be- 
 fore 
 
* 9 2 
 
 ' 
 
 Verona.' A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 fore that City belonged unto the Republick of 
 Venice . 
 
 The Rarities which we faw in the Cabinet 
 of the Count Mofcardo , deferve that fome 
 learned Man fhould undertake their Ddfcrip- 
 * Since the firft tion : * And lt ls t0 wondered at, that thofe 
 Writing of who have had the Curiofity, and the Means to 
 this, I know ama fs fo many fine Things together, fhould not 
 
 lifhed^^^" ^ ave t ^ ie ^ are t0 P rocure ^ xa & Prints of 
 fcriptionofthis them, and to add explanatory Remarks on 
 Cabinet; nay, I fuch as are mofi: confiderable •, fcarce any thing 
 have read it o- more remarkable can fall within the Obfer- 
 vation of a Traveller, nor any Thing that de- 
 ferves better to be ftudied and defcribed. There 
 is a Gallery, and Six Chambers, all filled with 
 the molt curious Frodu&ions of Art or Na- 
 ture. But as it is not pofiible for me to give 
 you a particular Account of fo many Things, 
 fo will I not engage my felf in fuch a Talk, 
 neither at prefent, nor for the future : You: 
 need but call to mind all that you have al- 
 ready feen in my Letters, and particularly that 
 which I fent you from Infpruck. Pi&ures, Books, 
 Rings, Animals, Plants, Fruits, Metals, mon- 
 ftrous or extravagant Produdtions, and Works 
 of all Fafhions ; and, in a Word, all that can 
 be imagined curious, or worthy Enquiry, whe- 
 ther for Antiquity or Rarity, or for the Deli- 
 cacy and Excellency of the Workmanfhip. The 
 Catalogue of them would alone amount to a 
 Volume *, only to fatisfy you in fome Meafure, 
 I aflure you, that whenever 1 fhall meet with 
 any Thing that I have not taken Notice of be- 
 fore, and which fhall feem worthy of particular 
 Obfervation, I will take Care to communicate 
 it to you. 
 
 There 
 
 ver, but tis a 
 very poor 
 Piece o 
 
 Roman Rods 
 or Fafces. 
 
Part I. to I T A L Y. Verona. 
 
 There are here many Inftruments and Uten- 
 fils, which were ufed in the Pagan Sacrifices. 
 They alfo fhewed us Figures of Brafs, that re- 
 prefent all Sorts of Things, which they hung 
 up in the Temples of their Gods, when they 
 had received any Aftiftance from them. To gra- 
 tify in fome Meafure your Curiofity, I have 
 added in this Place a fhort Scheme of the Inftru- 
 ments ufed by the ancient Pagans , which I hope 
 will not be unacceptable to you. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 o 
 
 antique 
 
V e ron A. A New Voyage V ol. 1. * 
 
 ■ 
 
 S A C R I F I C I A L I A. 
 
 ANTI QU A 
 
 1. SISTRUM or CREPT 
 TACULUM, an Inftru- 
 ment of Brafs with which 
 the ^Egyptians ufed to call 
 the People to the Sacrifices. ’ 
 There were feveral Sorts 
 of them, which were made 
 ufe of on different Occa- 
 fions. 
 
 2. L ITU US, the Augural 
 Staff, or a fort of Crofier or 
 Bifhop’s Staff, which theAu 
 gurs ufually carried in their 
 Hands, and with which 
 they marked out Spaces in 
 the Air, in order to their 
 Divination by Birds. 
 
 3. CAVEA and PULLI. 
 There was alfo a Sort of 
 Divination by Chickens 
 When they eat ''greedily, 
 ’twas reckoned a good Sign; 
 and a better, when a Bit or 
 Grain fell, from their Beaks 
 as they were Feeding. 
 When they refufed to eat, 
 ’twas eiteemed a bad Omen, 
 and much more when they 
 ran away. 
 
 4. AQUIMINARIUM or 
 AMULA. A Veil'd full 
 o $ Aqua Luftralis . It was 
 placed at the Doors of the 
 Temples, where the Peo- 
 ple fprinkled themfelves 
 with that Holy Water 
 
 5. PATERA. An Inilru- 
 inentr with which they 
 poured Wine on the Heads 
 of the V-ittims 
 
 „ 6. PR^EF i RICULUM. A 
 Vefiel of Brafs. in which 
 they put the Wine that was 
 uled in Libations, 
 
 7. SYMPULLUM or SYM- 
 PUVIUM. A little Vcf- 
 
 lel, ufually of Earth, into 
 which the Wine was pour- 
 ed out of the Prafericu- 
 lu?n , to make the fir it Ef- 
 fufions. 
 
 8. ALT ARE. There were 
 many different forts of Al- 
 tars. 
 
 9. TRIPUS or TRIPES. 
 There were Pripus's of fe- 
 veral Sorts, according to 
 the various Ufes for which 
 they were appointed. This 
 fometimes ferv’d for an j 
 Altar , when Oblations 
 were offered to the Do- 
 meltick Gods. And on 
 feveral Occafions ’twas alfo 
 ufed inftead of a Ghafing- 
 difh in rhe Celebration of 
 Sacrifices. 
 
 10. MALLEUS. The Mal- 
 let with which the large 
 Sort of Victims w r ere 
 knocked on the Head. 
 
 11. SEVAorSECESPITA. 
 
 A long Knife with which 
 they cut the Throats of the 
 larger Sort of Vidims, fuch 
 as Bulls, Rams, and Swine. 
 The Knives had ufually an 
 ivory Handle adorned with 
 Nails and Studs of Gold 
 and Silver. 
 
 12. CULTRI or CULTEL- 
 LI. Little Knives for Vi* 
 dims of a fmaller Size. 
 
 13 SECURES. The Axe with 
 winch the Vidims were 
 difmembered : And fome- 
 times it ferved to knock 
 them on the Head. 
 
 14. DO- 
 
*95 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Verona. 
 
 14. DOLABRA. Large 
 Knives to difmember the 
 larger Sort of Victims. 
 
 15. ASPERSORIUM, AS- 
 PERGILLUM, orLUS- 
 TRICA. An Inftrument 
 with which they fprinkled 
 themfelves with dyua Luf- 
 t ral'ts. 
 
 16. DISCUS. A Sort of 
 Trencher or flat Bafon, in 
 which they fometimes put 
 the Entrails of theVi&ims, 
 fometimes Blood and Flow- 
 er, and fometimes roalted 
 Flefli. 
 
 17. ENCLABRIS. The Ta- 
 ble on which they placed 
 the Vi&im to examine it’s 
 Entrails, in order to the 
 Divinations that were per- 
 formed byWay of Augury. 
 Several Utenfils for Sacri- 
 fices were alfo called EN- 
 CLABRIA or ANCLA- 
 BRIA, from the Word 
 ANCULARE, i.e. mini- 
 ftrare, from whence comes 
 ANCILLA. 
 
 18. LIGULA. An Inftru- 
 ment which the Augurs 
 made Ufe of when they 
 examined the Entrails of 
 the Vi&ims. 
 
 19. LITUUS. This Name 
 
 * was alfo given to a Sort of 
 
 Korn or Clarion, which 
 they founded at the Cere- 
 mony of the Hecatombs. 
 
 20. TUBA. A Pipe on which 
 they played fometimes du- 
 ring the Ceremony of the 
 Sacrifices. 
 
 ai. PATERAE or PATEL- 
 LAE. The Cups in which 
 they received the Blood of 
 
 theViclims. TheSacrificers 
 alfo made ufe of them when 
 they offered Wine to Gods. 
 
 22. THURIBULUM. The 
 Vcflel in which they burnt 
 Incenfe, during the Cere- 
 mony of the Sacrifice. 
 
 23. CAPIDES, CAPU LJE, 
 CAPEDINES, CAPE- 
 DUNCULAi, or CAPE- 
 DUNCULI, URNULAE 
 LIGNEAE, and FICTI- 
 LES. Several little Veflels 
 appointed for feveral Ufes. 
 
 24. ACERRAorTHURA- 
 RIUM. An Incenfe Box. 
 
 25. CANDELABRA. 
 Lamps and Candlefticks. 
 
 26. OLLA. The Pot in which 
 the Priefts boiled their Por- 
 tion of the Victim. 
 
 27. VAGINA. The Sheath 
 which the Sacrificer hung 
 at his Girdle, and in which 
 he kept feveral Sorts of 
 Knives. 
 
 28. APEX. The Sovereign 
 Pontiff’s Mitre. 
 
 29. ALBOGALERUS. The 
 Flamin ' s Mitre. 
 
 You muftnot imagine that 
 all thefe Inftruments are in 
 the Cab ; net of Count Mofcar- 
 do ; but I have feen every one 
 of them either there, or in o- 
 ther Places : And I hope the 
 curious Reader will be pleafed 
 to fee them all brought toge- 
 ther into fo narrow a Compafs. 
 Every one of thefe Inftru- 
 ments might be made theSub- 
 je£t of an entire Diflertation ; 
 But this is not a fit Place to 
 enter upon more particular 
 Enquiries of that Nature. 
 
 O 2 
 
 We 
 
196 Verona. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 We faw alfo many Pieces of Workmanftiip, 
 framed out of the Stone Amianthos , which is 
 thertV£sr©*» fo famous among Natural ifts. This 
 Stone, as hard and weighty as it is, is eafily di- 
 vided into Fibres or Threads, which are fo 
 ftrong and flexible, that they may be fpun like 
 Cotton. Before I leave this Head, I muft ac- 
 quaint you with this Remark concerning the In- 
 ftances of Petrifa&ion, which I haVe obferved 
 either here or elfewhere ; that there is frequent- 
 ly a great deal of Error and Uncertainty in 
 them, and that there are feveral Perlons who 
 fcruple not to ufe a little Artifice to multiply 
 and diverfify the Rarities with which they de- 
 fign to fill a Cabinet. It cannot be denied, that 
 Nature feems to divert herfelf fometimes with 
 fuch Sorts of Metamorphofes ; bdt it muft alfo 
 fee confefled, that they are often counterfeited by 
 Art. I know not whether you ever faw any of 
 thofe pretended Animals, called Bafilijks . The 
 Invention is prettily contrived, and has deceived 
 many. They take a fmall Ray , and having 
 turned it after a certain Manner, and raifed up 
 the Fins in form of Wings, they fit a littleTongue 
 to it, fharp like a Dart, and add Claws and 
 Eyes of Enamel, with other little Knacks, dex- 
 teroufly pieced together ; and this is the whole 
 Secrecy of making Bafilifks. I am not ignorant 
 * ’Tis the that fome Authors mention * another Sort of 
 common Opi- Bafilifk, without either Feet or Wings, which 
 fabulous C V thTt t ^ e Y reprefent like a crowned Serpent ; and ma- 
 the firftSort ny Natural ifts affirny that it kills with ids Breath 
 of Bafilifks are a nd Looks* Galen takes Notice of it as the moft 
 generated^m^n venemous of all Serpents ; and tells us, that the 
 old Cock! ^ Wezel only fears not it’s Poifon, but on the con- 
 trary, poifons it with ids Breath. Yet I believe 
 this Serpent is to be found only in the Land of 
 Pbosnixes , Unicorns , and flying Dragons . 
 
 I MIGHT 
 
Part I. VITALY. Verona. 197 
 
 I Might alledge many other little Cheats, The curious 
 like that of the firft Bafilifk ; but to return to our m 
 
 Account of Petrifadtion, I fhall fix only upon h ovv they 
 one of them, or a pretended one. There is a make theMan- 
 certain natural Produdtion, a kind of imperfedt drak ^ t ^ lch 
 Plant, or a Coralline Matter, which extreamly 1 ”*^ f ox - 
 refembles a Mufhroom. I know not whether g er y. 
 fome Perfons really deceive themfelves, or are 
 only willing to deceive others : But ’tis certain, 
 that they give the Name of petrified Mu/hr ooms , They are fre- 
 to thofe Sorts of Corals which never were Mufh- 
 rooms. The Queftion depends upon the Matter 
 of Fadt ; but befides every one may fee that no- 
 thing in the World is lefs capable of Petrifadtion 
 than a Mufhroom, becaufe of the Loofenefs and 
 Softnefs of it’s Subllance *, we muft confider that 
 fuch a Metamorphofis cannot be done in a very 
 fhort Time. 
 
 I remember I obferved in this Cabinet many 
 of thofe thin Skins of Trees, on which the An- 
 cients wrote, before they knew the Ufe of Pa- 
 per. Two Trees of black Coral, three Foot 
 high each •, a Hen’s Egg, which is of 
 this Figure ; A Knife of Stone ex- 
 treamly fharp, which fome Jews make 
 ufe of for the Circumcifion of Children 
 who died before the eighth Day. There 
 is a great Difference in the modern Jewifh Ce- g ee concem- 
 remonies, particularly between the Oriental , Ger - ing that Mat- 
 man , Italian , and Portuguefe Jews . I remember ter > . Thom. 
 
 I have read in Buxtorf , of an infinite Number of 
 
 their Cuftoms that are not ufed in this Country. Quzeft. 70. 
 
 Art 3. 
 
 Claud. Drufius in notis ad Jofuam C. v - Ramirezius, Cap. iv. 
 
 Pentecontarchi. Pifcator, in Quaeftionib. .... ■■ Cajet. ad Jofuam v. — — 
 
 Claud. Jun. Arias Mont. & Pagn. in eundem Locum. — - Theodoret. 
 
 Quzeft. in Jof. v. Et Sixtinus Amama, in Antibarbaro Biblico. L. 2. in 
 fcxod. IV. 25. 
 
19$ Verona. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 *Itis faid ac- S° me make life of the Cutting-ftone *, accord - 
 cording to the ing to the ancient Pradlice : But in Italy, they 
 Hebrew in generally ufe to bury the dead Child without 
 the fifth Chap- Circumcifion ; and when they circumcife them, 
 tha° he Cir*’ u & a Knife made of a Cane : The ordina- 
 cumcifed the ry Circumcifion is performed with a Steel Knife. 
 Children of If 
 
 rael with Knives of Stone ; and in the fourth of Exodus, That Zippora circum- 
 cifed her Son with a Stone. Jofeph Scaliger fays, there are Jews who take 
 off the Prepuce with their Nails ; and others who cut it a little, and tear a- 
 way the reft. I have feen it cut with a kind of Razor at London and Pome. 
 
 W e have feen a Burial to Day, of which I 
 will give you fome Account. The Body was 
 dreffed in a black Suit, with a Cloak : He had 
 fine clean Linen, a new long Peruke, a Plat 
 upon his Head •, and upon the Plat, a Garland of 
 Flowers. The Corps was laid in a fitting Potfure, 
 on a Quilt, covered with a Counterpane of Yel- 
 low and red Brocard, and fupported with a Pil- 
 low of the fame Stuff. Four Men carried it thus 
 all open, and the Company followed two and 
 two. Garlands are only ufed for thofe who were 
 never married. This was alfo the Cuftom of 
 the Ancients, and they called it Corona pudicitia , 
 the Crown of Chaftity. Some Hours before, 
 we had another Rencounter: It was a Woman 
 richly dreffed, who walked through the City be- 
 tween two Nuns, and was going to take the 
 Habit. 5 Tis ufual in this Country to go thus in 
 Publick, whereas in France , and many other 
 Places, this Ceremony is performed in the Convent. 
 M. Montel, A French Merchant who lived here feveral Years, 
 livmg in Lon - h as j u ft now given me an Account of a Procefh- 
 d°n, 0 n, which he had often feen, and which I have 
 
 a great Mind to relate to you before I finifh my 
 MarTl i ^’ Letter, ’Tis believed at Verona , that after Chrift 
 Luke xixl had made his Entrance into Jerufalem, he dif- 
 
 John xii. miffed the * She or He-Afs on which he rode, and 
 
 ordered 
 
199 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Verona. 
 
 \ ordered that he fhould pals the reft of his Days 
 i in Quiet and Liberty. They add, that the Afs, 
 i weary with having wandered fo long in Palc?ftine y 
 refolved to vifit foreign Countries, and to un- 
 dertake a Voyage by Sea ; nor had he any need 
 of a Ship, for the Waves became ftnooth, and 
 the liquid Element grew as hard as Cryftal. 
 After he had vifited the Iflands of Cyprus , Rhodes , 
 Candia> Malta , and Sicily, he palfed over the 
 Gulf of Venice , and ftaid fome Days in the Place 
 where that famous City was afterwards built : 
 But the Air Teeming to be unhealthful, and the 
 Pafturage bad among thefe lalt and marifh Iflands; 
 Martin continued his Voyage, and mounted 
 I the River of Adige dry-fhod, and coming up to 
 Verona , he made choice of that Place for his 
 laft Refidence. After he had lived there fome 
 Years like an honeft Afs, he died at laft, to 
 the great Grief of the Confraternity. So la- 
 mentable and univerfal a Braying, made the E- 
 choes to refound thro* the Country, that never 
 was fo fad a Melody heard at the Funeral of fuch 
 an Animal, not even in Arcadia itfelf. But they 
 quickly found a Way to alleviate their Grief, for 
 all the Honours imaginable being rendered to the 
 bleft Deceafed, the Devotees of Verona took care 
 to preferve his Relicks, and put them into the 
 Belly of an artificial Afs, made for that Purpofe, 
 where they are kept to this Day, to the great 
 Joy and Edification of pious Souls. This holy 
 Statue is kept in the Church of Ncftre Dame of 
 the Organs, and four of the luftieft Monks in 
 the Convent, in pontifical Habits, carry it fo- 
 lemnly in Proceftion two or three Times every 
 Year. 
 
 I have juft now made a fecond Vifit to the 
 Cabinet of Count Mo fear do ; and the obliging 
 6 4 Perfon 
 
£°° Verona. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Perfon who received me was pleafed with my 
 Curiofity, indead of looking upon it as a Trou- 
 ble. He allured me, that he never thought any 
 Part of his Time fo acceptably employed, as 
 that which he fpent in fhewing his Curiofities to 
 thofe who love them : And that he was extreamly 
 pleafed he could entertain me alone without being 
 didurbed by the Crowd, which for feveral Rea- 
 fons, he faid, made him always very uneafy. 
 We began immediately to take another View of 
 many Rarities, and Curiofities; and I found him 
 more communicative than the fird time I faw 
 him : For he talk’d very much, and was dill 
 fhewing a great deal of Knowledge, and Litera- 
 ture. We fell upon Drawers of precious Stones, 
 and he fhew’d me very fine Amethyds, and 
 quoted feveral Authors, who affirm, that Jcfeph 
 prefented one fet in a Ring to Mary when he 
 efpoufed her. And when I was looking upon 
 the Sapphires, he cited a Pafiage of St Epipha- 
 nius , who believ’d, that God wrote the Deca^ 
 logue upon a Sapphire. The Virtues that are 
 afcrib’d to thefe and other Stones, furnifh’d us 
 with Matter for a new Converfation. He has a 
 confiderable Number of the Stones, which he 
 calls Saette , Fuhnini , Pietre ceraunei , and ‘Thun- 
 derbolts. This is a Matter of Fadt, that if true, de- 
 ferves to be examin’d ; and perhaps I may at ano- 
 ther time, give you a more pofitive Account 
 relating to this Subject : But at prefent I mud 
 make hade to finifh my Letter. I took notice 
 of fome Mirrors of mixt Metal that were dug 
 up near Verona , and are probably very ancient. 
 The Ufe of Mirrors made ofGlafs is an Inven- 
 tion that one may reckon amongd thofe that are 
 new; but thofe that have written, without any 
 manner of didindlion, that Mirrors in general 
 were unknown to the Ancients, are fallen into 
 
 a grols 
 
201 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Verona. 
 
 a grofs Miftake *, for both facred and profane 
 Books make frequent Mention of them. 
 
 Among the great Variety of Coins that are 
 to be feen in this Cabinet, there are fome of 
 Leather, but fo disfigured, that I could not make 
 any certain Judgment of them. I remember the 
 obliging and learned * Mr Hearne , one of the 
 
 Keepers of the furious Bodleian Library at Ox - * Ke P ub_ 
 
 ford , has fhewn me one which was better pre- JJavc tv 7 us 
 
 ferved in the || Cabinet of the Schola Academica , Livius , in fix 
 of which Cabinet he has the Care and Manage- Volumes in 
 ment. No Man is ignorant of the Ufe that has : 
 been made of this kind of Money, at feveral Eutropius\ 
 Times, and on different Occafions. JuJlin, Trogas 
 
 Pompeius ; and 
 
 other Works: I know he is about a new Edition of Cicero , having the Ad- 
 vantage of feveral Manufcripts to affilt him in it. ( 1 7 1 o) 
 
 f Dr Hudfon, S. T. P. a Man of great Worth and Learning, is the chief 
 Library- keeper. 
 
 || Different from the Mu/eum JJhmoUanum which is near the Theatre. 
 
 While I was confidering the various Sorts of 
 Inftruments and Vefiels that were made Ufe of 
 in the Sacrifices, Mr N» ftiewed me an Aquimi- Ofacilesnimi- 
 nartum or Amula , in which they kept the Luftral- una » q u i triftia 
 Waters at the Doors of the Temples. I jhew 
 you this , faid he finding, to convince you Englijh - t0 \\[ pu _ 
 men, thqt our Holy tVater in Italy is not a modern tatis Aqua ! 
 Invention. Ovid. 
 
 I saw alfo a vaft Number of little Statues in 
 Brafs, of Deities, illuftrious Perfons, Gladia- 
 tors, Wreftlers, Soldiers both Greeks and Ro- 
 mans, &c. Among the reft I found one of a 
 Pygmy, all little Boys are very like Pygmies, and 
 another of a Satyr. The former put us in Mind 
 to take a View of the Bones of Giants : And to 
 fatisfy our Curiofity about the latter, we ftept 
 into the Library to fee what Eufehius and St Je- 
 rom have written of thofe pretended Half- men. 
 
202 
 
 Verona. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 or Satyrs, whom they did not look upon as Chi - 
 mczra's. We confulted Plutarch concerning the 
 dumb Satyr that was brought to Sylla ; and for- 
 got not the Story of another whom St Anthony 
 forced to fpeak with a Sign of the Crofs. 
 
 After we - had looked upon the rarefl Books 
 in the Library, and fome Manufcripts that are 
 neatly written and adorned with Paintings, but 
 not very remarkable for any Thing elfe, we re- 
 turned to the Cabinet, where we fpent above an 
 Hour in viewing, both Foffil-Shells, and of 
 other Kinds •, Urns, Sepulchral Lamps, Keys, 
 Rings, Seals, Dials, Arms, Habits, Head' 
 drefies. Accoutrements of the Legs and Feet, 
 &c. that were in ufe among feveral Nations, and 
 in feveral Ages. As for the Medals, Pm per- 
 fuaded we could not have examined them all in a 
 Month : For there are Thoufands of all Sorts. 
 
 At laft we began to view the Paintings, and 
 to admire at Leifure the flupendious Works of 
 thofe divine Men, to ufe the Expreffions of 
 Mr N. which he utters out of the Abundance 
 of his Heart. He falls into Raptures, when he 
 begins to extol the incomparable Charms of the 
 Pencil of the great Raphael , and the great Tito; 
 the Fecundity, Noblenels, and rich Difpofiuon 
 of Jnlio-Romano , who was Raphael's Scholar ; 
 the vaft Imagination of Correge : The Graces 
 and Softnefs of Guido , the fine Air of his Heads, 
 and the excellent Ordonance of all his Pieces. 
 The Corredtnefs of Hannibal Caracche's Defigns 
 and the Beauty of his Colours, &c. ’Twould not 
 be a very difficult Talk to me to make fome 
 Refle&ions on that fine Language *, but it will 
 be better to leave thefe Criticifms for another 
 Occafion. I found alfo feveral Pieces of John 
 Bellini , Andrew Mantegna , whofe famous Cartons 
 are to be feen at the Palace of Hampton-Court , with 
 
 feveral 
 
Parti. ITALY. Verona. 
 
 feveral of Raphael's \ of Andrew del Sarto , old 
 Palma, Holhen , Andrew Schiavon , the Bafjan's , 
 Tintoret , Moretto , PW Veronefe , Pr. Carotto , and 
 feveral others. Among the Pi&ures of illuftri- 
 ous Perfons, I obferved thole of Henry VIII, 
 Elizabeth his Daughter, Platina , Albertus Magnus , 
 Bartolus , Machiavel , Boccacio , Sannazarius , Pe- 
 trarch, [one of my belt Friends] Scotus, Eraf- 
 mus, Aretin, Ariofio , the S cadger's Father and 
 Son, and Cardinal Robert Bellarmin. Don’t blame 
 me tor not mentioning them in order, but afcribe 
 the Fault to my Hafte, which will not allow me 
 to rank them according to their Antiquity or 
 Merit. Among the modern Medals, I remem- 
 ber, I found fome of Michael Angelo , ArioJlo 9 
 Melanfthon , Erajmus , the Pyrate Barbaroffa ; yf/- 
 and Mahomet , whom I might have named 
 
 You know Catullus was a Native of Verona: 
 
 7 antum magna fuo debet Verona Catullo 9 
 Quantum parva fuo Mantua Virgilio . 
 
 firft. 
 
 
 Verona . Dee . 
 16. 1687. 
 
 5 7 22 , 
 
 2c;/ r, &c. 
 
 LETTER 
 
Vicenza. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 204 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 S I R, 
 
 T H E Country between Verona and Vicenza 
 is fruitful, well manured, and almoft every 
 where level : The Trees are planted Checker- 
 wife on which the Vines are raifed, and fpread 
 themfel ves among the Branches : And the Ground 
 is carefully tilled. We dined at a little Village 
 called La Lorre , which are the Bounds between 
 the Veronefe and the Vicentin . The Wines of this 
 Country are much efteemed, and have been fo 
 formerly. I remember I have read in Suetonius , 
 that Augustus made them his ordinary Drink : 
 But fince every one is allowed to have a parti- 
 cular Tafte, I fhall take the Liberty of faying, 
 that I have found a certain Sweernefs in thofe 
 I have drunk in fome Places, where they have 
 been cried up for the beft, that has not pleafed 
 my Palate. The Bread taftes as if it were made 
 of Earth, though very white, and of excellent 
 Flower *, becaufe they know not the beft Way to 
 make it. Together with this, they entertained 
 us with a Difli of old Grey Peafe, fryed in Oil, 
 and this was all our Dinner. Is it not very ftrange, 
 that we fhould be in Danger to die of Hunger 
 in a fertile Country, after we had fed plentifully 
 among the Rocks and Mountains? The Soil is 
 fat, and confequently the Ways bad ; infomuch 
 that at this Seafon, there was need of feven 
 or eight Horfes to draw the Coaches : They 
 put them altogether under the Coachman’s 
 Whip, that he might drive them without a Po- 
 ftillion. 
 
 VICENZA 
 
Parti, /o ITALY. Vicenza. 205 
 
 VICENZA is at lead Jefs by half than Verona , VICENZA, 
 and is only encompafled with tottering Walls. 
 
 Three or four little Rivers meet there, which 
 ferve for feveral Ufes ; but none of them are na- 
 vigable. Our Guide carried us to fome of the 
 Churches: The Coronata is well paved and wain- 
 fcotted : That of the Nuns of St Catharine hath 
 three fine Altars. There are fome good Pictures 
 in the Cathedral ; where they fhewed us in the 
 Choir, an inlaid Work of Stones, which the Sa- 
 criftan praifed very much, tho’ it is of no great 
 Value *, the Performance is better than the De- 
 fign. The Town-houfe has nothing in it ex- 
 traordinary, yet they boaft of it as a rare 
 Piece. 
 
 T o fpeak the Truth, *tis not an eafy Matter 
 for Travellers to ufe themfelves to the fweiling 
 Style of the Italians : The Genius of their Lan- 
 guage is fuch, that *tis impoflible for them to 
 fpeak Things without fome Sort of Exaggera- 
 tion : Efpecially, when they fall upon the To- 
 pick of praifing any Thing or Perfon, all they 
 
 S lay then, is Stupendo , Maravigliofo , Incomparable . 
 
 We have already feen I know not how many 
 pretended eighth Wonders of the World. When 
 we complained at Verona , that there were fo few 
 confiderable Buildings in fo great a City, which 
 had formerly been fo famous ; they allured us, 
 that we lhould find many vaft and noble Build- 
 ings at Vicenza : Vicenza , faid they, e ripiena di 
 palazzi fuperbijfimi , con un Architettura ft aor dinar i- 
 mente fuperha. Thefe were indeed big Words ; 
 but ’tis certain, that never any Men found them- 
 felves more ftrangely difappointed than we were, 
 when we came to fee thefe pretended magni- 
 ficent Palaces of Vicenza . I confefs that Men 
 
 mull agree about the Signification of their 
 Terms: It mull be allowed to Italians to call any 
 
 common 
 
 / 
 
206 
 
 Vicenza. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 common Houfe a Palace , if they will : To give 
 a little Parlour the great Name of a Chamber of 
 Audience: To ftyle a Foot-boy’s Meffage an Em- 
 huffy : If they pleafe let them call their Lacqueys 
 EmbaJfaclorSi and all their Houles Louvres , I hear- 
 tily confent to it : But though thefe Words found 
 well in the Mouth of an Italian ; as for us, who 
 were not bred in Italy , and who fpeak a natural 
 Language, we mufl not fuffer ourfclves to be 
 impofed upon with the unmeaning Words of 
 their Palazzi , and their Suntuofiffmi , when ufed 
 in our own Tongue. The Word Palais is not 
 ufed fo prodigally amongft us, as that of Palazzo 
 is among the Italians : It imports much more in 
 your Englifh Longue , as well as in our French , and 
 excites another Idea in our Hearers. In a Word, 
 they give the Name of Palazzi in Italy to cer- 
 tain ordinary Houfes, to which that of Palais 
 does not belong *, neither in France , nor England. 
 And tho’ they apply all that to the SuperbiffimiPa- 
 laces of Vicenza , I maintain in general, that they 
 may be called pretty handfome Houfes, in French 
 and Englifh^ and no more. Perhaps there are 
 three or four for which a better Name could 
 be granted •, but I fee no Reafon why they 
 fhould be termed very fine *, fmce to fpeak pro- 
 perly, they are but well mafked, and not fine 
 Houfes : I fpeak of thofe that have nothing fine 
 but the Frontifpiece, and that too is no more than 
 indifferent, for they are often covered only with 
 Plaifter, inflead of being built of Free-Stone. I 
 have infilled the longer on this, becaufe it is hard 
 to root out the inveterate Prejudices with which 
 many People are pofTeffed, about the Multitude 
 of Palaces in Italy ; and I would endeavour al- 
 ways to reprefent Things as they are. 
 
 Our Guide finding that we were no great Ad- 
 mirers of his Palaces, fanfied however, that he 
 
 knew 
 
207 
 
 part I. VITALY. Vicenza. 
 
 knew a Way to furprize us; and having infen- 
 fibly obliged us to follow him, he drew us on 
 through the Dirt, a large half League from the 
 City, to lhew us a little Country-houfe, which 
 belonged to the Marquefs of Capra. It is a 
 fquare Building, in the Midd of which there 
 is a little Hall, under a fmall Dome, and at 
 each Angle of the Square two Chambers and 
 a Clolet. There are fome good Pidtures in it ; 
 and the Situation being on a little Afcent, in a 
 good Country, contributes to render the Place 
 very agreeable. 
 
 In our Return from this Houfe he carried us 
 to the Madona of Montberic. She is famous in this 
 Country, and the Prior told us her whole mi- 
 raculous Story very ferioufly. You are to know 
 only, that this Image of our ’Lady came out of 
 the Earth, in the very Place where fhe {lands : 
 And that they have often in Vain endeavoured 
 to tranfport her to Vicenza ; ten thoufand Men 
 together, as the Prior told us, would not be able 
 to make her dir. The Pidture by Paul Veronefe , 
 which is in their Refe&ory, is the bed Piece 
 in the Convent : It reprefents St Gregory at Table 
 with fome Pilgrims. 
 
 There are fome Ruins of an ancient Amphi- 
 theatre at Vicenza , but they told us, they were 
 almod all hid under new Buildings. The Theatre 
 in the Academy, called the Olympicks , is one of the 
 Works of the famous Palladio. The Fabrick 
 is none of the larged, and they ufe it only on 
 certain Occafions, which rarely happen. The 
 Triumphal Arch without the Gates, at the En- 
 trance of the Plain, which is called the Field of 
 Mars , is in Imitation of the ancient Arches of 
 that Name by the fame Palladio . 
 
 The Garden of the Count of Valmanara , is 
 very much extolled in this City, and the Infcrip- 
 
 tion 
 
2o8 
 
 Vicenza. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 tion which we read over the Door, puts us in 
 great Expe&ations. This is the Subftance of it : 
 
 S t OP, dear 'Traveller , thou, who fear cheft for 
 rare ‘things, and inch anted Places ; for here thou 
 mafft find Satisfaction* Enter into this delicious 
 Garden , and tafte abundantly of all Sorts of Plea - 
 fures : ‘the Count ofW almanara gives thee leave , &c. 
 
 They had indeed once defigned to have made 
 this a very agreeable Place. There was a Ca- 
 nal, Parterres, Arbours, &c. and there ftill re- 
 mains an Alley of Citron and Orange-Trees* 
 which is really very pleafant. 
 
 This Signior Conte put me in mind of a Story, 
 which I have read I don’t know where. They 
 fay that Charles V being at Vicenza , a great 
 Number of Gentlemen and rich Burgefifes of 
 that Place, preffed him very earneftly to grant 
 them the Title of Counts : The Emperor re- 
 fufed at firft, but at laft, to get rid of thefe 
 troublefome People, faid aloud, Well, well , I 
 make you all Counts , both the City and Suburbs . 
 Since that Time, fay they here, nothing is more 
 common than Counts. 
 
 The Way from Vicenza to Padua is in all re- 
 fpe&s like that between Verona and Vicenza . We 
 paiTed the tezenza about three Quarters of an 
 Hour from Vicenza , and the Brenta an Hour 
 from Padua . I remember that the Antiquaries 
 do not agree, concerning this Brenta : Some 
 pretend that ’tis the timavus ; and others, that it 
 is one of the Medoacus’s. The firft Opinion feems 
 leaft propable, becaufe of the River timavus % 
 which pafies by Friuli, and is probably the true 
 one. But let us leave them to decide their Con- 
 troverfies, and go to Padua . 
 
 If 
 
Part I. 
 
 to ITALY. Padua. 
 
 2cg 
 
 If my Defign was to fiiy here what Padua has PADUA. 
 been , I could draw a very fine Pi&ure of it ; 
 not indeed without danger of Romancing fome- itwasfubje- 
 times, if I fhould bodly affirm all that has been ftedtothe Ve- 
 written of it, by the mod ancient Authors : For n ^ tian ^ in the 
 Example, I own, 1 do by no means believe that J 4 ° h ' 
 this City has ever been able to provide an hundred pulled down 
 and twenty thouland fighting Men, as Strabo , and the Suburbs, 
 others have plainly written: But however it ^ ere 
 
 be, what I have to fay at this time concerning ^ f ™ a c ~ 
 Padua , is, that it fee ms poor, and very thinly Churches, 
 peopled : That it appears with an Air altogether feven Hofpi- 
 negle&ed, and fid to the Eyes of Strangers up- 5 ° 00 
 
 on their Entrance into it: this is very fure. ScraderutP^ 
 However, I will not contradid thole who fiiy 
 they think it a fine City *, without doubt, in 
 cOmparifon of abundance of others, that I for- 
 bear mentioning, for fear of fouring the good 
 People that dwell in them, one may think it fb. 
 
 But let us turn the Tables, and compare Padua, 
 
 I will not fay with Paris, London , Amfterdam , or 
 Lijle * but with a Hundred others I know *, and 
 Padua will certainly, as I have already laid, make 
 but a poor Figure, if we confider it in the Whole : 
 
 Tho’ I don’t deny it has fome fine Buildings, 
 both Public and Private. The Gardens of Papa- 
 Fava are very delightful *, as alfo feveral others. 
 
 It is fituate in a good Country *. It has alfo its 
 Univerfity, in which there are fome Faces not * Bologna la 
 to be ridiculed. It has its Antiquities, its Ca- Graffa la 
 binets, and, I queftion not, very good Com- f^Qual™ 3 ’ 
 pany •, befides other Things which make us take p a fl- a> 
 Pleafure in it, when once we are thoroughly ac- 
 quainted with it •, and it is fo far from being de- 
 fpifed upon the Account of its Fall and Declen- 
 fion, that perhaps we love it the better for it. 
 
 It is feldom that we hate thofe we once loved, 
 on the Account of unfortunate Accidents that hap- 
 pen to them ; but on the contrary, we pity them, 
 
 Vojl. I. P and 
 
210 
 
 Padua. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 and CompafTion augments our Love •, whereas 
 Pride and Oftentation, arifing commonly from 
 Profperity, often raife Contempt and Envy alfo. 
 
 I know particularly a little Country, Matter 
 of itfelf, whofe City was formerly, and even in 
 my time a charming Place to live in. Ail it’s 
 Splendor confifted in the Plainnefs, Conveniency, 
 and Liberty of Life : without Riches, or Want > 
 without Dignities, and without Slavery *, they 
 lived happily and were fenfible of that Felicity. 
 Their Harvetts, their Vintages, their fine Lake, 
 and their good Failures, with the Induftry of 
 their Artifans ; all thefe things afforded not only 
 what was fufficient for the Neceff tries, but alfo 
 for the moft folid Pleafures of this Life. They 
 fpent it in tranquillity, free from great Cares, 
 and from great Dangers in their little Houfes, 
 more or lefs pretty, with plain Furniture, and 
 modeft Habits. In good Reputation, and well 
 liked by all, they were well beloved by every one 
 in their fimple and fweet Condition. The World 
 admired their true Happinefs, without envying 
 them, tho’ ottering Vows for their Profperity : 
 Never fpeaking of them, but in Praife and Blefc 
 fings ; interefting themfelves in every thing that 
 concerned them. 
 
 Yet, has a certain Advance of unexpected 
 Wealth caufed an Alteration between them ? Have 
 they affumed certain new manners of Opulent 
 Men ? Of fix or feven Houfes inhabited by fix or 
 ieven common Families, have they made a Palace 
 for one Man, without remembring that a Propor- 
 tion ought to be obferved, between the Citizens 
 and the Republick ? The Chief-Men of them, 
 have they Defpifed the Others ? Licentioufnefs and 
 Voluptuoufnds mixed with Ambition, have they 
 creot together among them ? The Love that the 
 World had- for them is not at ail encreafed j nei- 
 ther 
 
2 I I 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Padua. 
 
 ther have they acquired any new Efteem that 
 may be looked on as the Fruit of their PVofpe- 
 rity. But rather on the contray, they l^ive oc- 
 casioned Jealoufy, and drawn upon themfelves 
 the diiagreeable Reflections of feveral Perfons, 
 without being a Jot happier than they were 
 before: *Tis to be hoped then, they will make 
 a right Ufe of this favourable Misfortune that 
 has lately happened to them ; and that like true 
 Philolophers, they will return to their former 
 Ample and peaceable State. 
 
 Let us then conclude in flivour of Padua , 
 that one may love and be pleafed with it, tho* 
 it is neither rich nor handfome *, I could have 
 told you this in one Word, but you know what 
 occafloned this Amplification. 
 
 The Circuit of this City is confiderable, but 
 there are large Spaces in it that are void of Build- 
 ings, and many Houfes void of Inhabitants. 
 
 The ancient Padua hath Hill retained its firfl: 
 
 Walls *, but Ance it fell into the Hands of the 
 Venetians , they have taken in the Suburbs, and 
 encompafled the whole with a new Sort of 
 Fortification, which was never good, and is at 
 prefently extreamly decayed. 
 
 The re are Porches or Piazzas, almofi: through- Of late, the 
 out the whole City, which are very conve- Univerfityof 
 nient to flielter People from Rain ; but other- 
 wife make the Streets narrow and dark, and Condrtion^nd 
 give Opportunity for thofe frequent Robberies the Number 
 and Murders, which they call at Padua^ the Qui- ^ tbe Student 
 vali? What can be more furprifing, than that 
 the Scholars of Padua fhould be privileged to the Quiva-li 
 knock down thofe whom they meet, and to is not much to 
 break Legs and Arms, without any Hope of be feared. 
 Redrefs ? For, as foon as Night comes on, they 
 arm themfelves, and going out in Companies, 
 hide themfelves between the Pillars of the 
 P a Porches j 
 
212 
 
 One of the 
 principal 
 Lamps in St 
 Anthony's 
 Chapel was 
 exacted by 
 way of Fine, 
 from the Gen- 
 tlemen of the 
 Qui-va-li ? 
 for killing a 
 Man in the 
 Entry of the 
 Church. 
 
 I fay again [in 
 1 71 2] that 
 thefe Infolen- 
 cies have been 
 feldom prafti- 
 feci for fome 
 Years. 
 
 Padua. A New Voyage Vol.I. 
 
 Porches ; and while the poor Paffenger is (truck 
 with Terror at the Hearing of the Qu eft ion, 
 Qui-va-R? Without perceiving who makes it; 
 another at the lame time cries, Qui-va-ld: So 
 without being able to go either forward or back- 
 ward, the unhappy Wretch muft perifh be- 
 tween the Qui va-la^ and the ghti-va-ll : Thus 
 thefe Sparks make a Sport. This is what they 
 call the Qui-va-lz of Padua . 
 
 It often happens, that thefe Scholars kill un- 
 known Perfons, or fome of themfdves, merely 
 to maintain their pretended Privilege. It is true, 
 thefe Diforders are not daily committed, for 
 People keep themfelves as clofe as they can out 
 of harm’s way. But it may be faid without ex- 
 aggeration, that not a Month palfeth, in which 
 two or three fuch Accidents do not happen. Not 
 but this unbridled Licenfe might be eafily re- 
 drained ; yet Venice , which infills on the re- 
 fining of her Politicks, is willing that Padua 
 fliould be over-awed by this Patrolle , which cods 
 them Nothing, and has other Ufes. 
 
 I had Yeflerday a long Difcourfe with fome 
 Perfons, who believe that Padua was formerly a 
 Sea Port ; both becaufe the Ancients fpeak of it, 
 as a very rich Place, and becaufe when they dig 
 Wells and Foundations of Houfes, they find in 
 divers Places Anchors and Mads. I know not 
 whether this Opinion will feem reafonable to you ; 
 but fince Hidory has given us no Account of it, 
 I fhould rather have recourfe to a more eafy 
 Way, to explain how Veflels came up to Padua , 
 which is, that there was formerly fome large 
 Canal having Communication with the Sea. 
 
 They affim alfo, that Padua was built by An- 
 tenor. They fhew a great Tomb or Sarcophagus , 
 in which they have placed the pretended Bones 
 of this old $ro)an y and it is commonly called 
 
 Antenor ' s 
 
Part I. to ITALY. Padua. 213 
 
 Antenor' s Tomb ; but this Tradition is very un- 
 certain. It cannot indeed be denied, if we are 
 obliged to give credit to fo many ancient Au- 
 thors,, that * Ante nor came into this Country :* SeetheFirft 
 And it is not lefs certain, according to thefe old Book of the 
 Writers, that he built a City which was called dEneids. 
 
 Pat avium. But the Qneftion is, whether this V! us 
 Padua be the Patavium of Antenor ; for tho* this iurfills, &ct* 
 Opinion is not improbable, yet there are Argu- Mefldla Cor- 
 
 ments againft it, as well as for it. rjinus l* ait L 
 
 That the 
 
 Arms of Troy were placed by dntenor in the Temple of Padua ; and that 
 it was a Sow in a Field Or - It would be needlcfs to bellow a Reflection on 
 fo ridiculous a Story, fince the Ufe of Efchutcheons, or Coats of Arms, 
 was not eftablifhed above 600 Years ago. 
 
 As for the f Tomb it fignifies Nothing. It is fGood LaJJels 
 about Four hundred and odd Years, fince thole ^ 
 
 who were working on the Foundations of an hedoubtswhe- 
 Hofpital, dug up a Leaden-CofHn, near which thertheEpi 
 they found a Sword. The Coffin had no In- ta PB was writ- 
 fcription, and upon the Sword were fome Leonin ^Tke* 
 Verfes in barbarous Latin. Judge, I pray you, becaufe it is 
 whether this may not as well agree with the writfen in 
 Trojan Horfe, as with Antenor . In the mean time, a"ve~ 
 
 the immoderate Love which fome People have ry oo 0 d Rea- C ~ 
 for every thing that bears fome Stamp of x4.nti- fon indeed, 
 quity, made them give out, that they had found 
 the Tomb of Antenor. A certain Man called || || Lupatus de- 
 Lupatus , who was then a Magiftrate, and a Man i ' lreci that Bis 
 of fome Learning, had alfo his Reafons, or Pre- ^ 0I ^ b ce f 5 0 ^ lcl 
 judices, in favour of thefe Bones *, and fome Years t h a t of his 
 afeer, put them in (that renowned Tomb, which dear Jntenor. 
 they call at this Day the Tomb of Antenor , and Ancl the two 
 which is to be feen at the entrance of St Lau - aSTtUUnth® 
 rence's-Street . He caufed four Verfes to be En- fame Place, 
 grayed on it, which, you may be fure, are in 
 Gotbick Characters: You will perhaps be pleafed 
 to fee them exadtly as they are written. 
 
 P 3 
 
 C. In* 
 
214 
 
 Padua. A New Voyage Vol. T. 
 
 C Inclitus. Anterior . Patriam vox nifa quiet em, 
 c Tranftulit hue Enetum Dardanidumqy fugas : 
 Expulit Euganeos , Patavina condidit Urhem \ 
 Quern tenet hie humili mamore cefa domus . 
 
 All that is told at large by Lorenzo Pignoria in his 
 Origini di Padua. One may alfo fee Gull. Ongarello in 
 his Chronicles : Angelo Portenari , Felicita di Padua : 
 Sertorius Urfatus , Monumenta Patavina : 6^0 P0- 
 lentonus : Jaq. Cavacio : Pomafin : Blondus^Merula , &c. 
 
 You may obferve that there is a C. at the be- 
 ginning of the firft Verfe. Inclitus is written 
 without a T. Above the e in Antenor there is an 
 Abbreviation in head of another n. Enetum is 
 
 * Almoft all 
 the Latin Au- 
 thors write In- 
 clytus with 
 a y ; and it 
 ought to be 
 written fo, if • 
 it were certain, 
 that it is de- 
 
 written without an H. The que in T)ardanidumq\ is 
 abbreviated. The Abbreviation above the lad: a in 
 Patavina denotes that there fhou’d be an m \ and 
 there is another above the a in mamore which 
 Hands inftead of an r. Cefa is written with a fim- 
 ple e \ and the four Verfes are in Capital Letters, 
 ’Tis impoftible in my Opinion, to find out the 
 Senfe of the firft of ’em. I forgot to tell you, that 
 the three firft Letters of condidit are abridg’d into 
 one Character. There are no Points or Stops but 
 what I have mark’d •, and fome of the Words are 
 together. The Exadnefs with which I 
 tranferib’d thefe Verfes, may be look’d upon as 
 
 feveral Authors , who 
 
 a tacite Refledion on 
 have cited ’em falfly, 
 corred the Account * 
 
 and 
 
 may 
 
 alfo ferve 
 
 rived from 
 Khl /log. But 
 
 with 1 equal corred the Account * I gave myfelf of ’em, 
 
 probability be the firft Edition of this Book, -f 
 fuppofed to 
 
 come from KXtilU, both thefe Words being ufed in the fame fenfe by Greek 
 Authors, I fee no reafoft why Inclitus may not be written without ay. 
 
 ■f Having fmee that time confidered this Epitaph more attentively, I 
 found thja't there was neither P atria nor ,c<efa, but P atria and cefa , with- 
 out either re or £. It is true, I perceived that fome Perfon had been en- 
 deavouring to alter thefe two Letters, by adding a fmall ilroke to each of 
 them ; and it was that which occafioned my Miftake ; but thefe Scratches 
 do not belong to the Original, and are almoii worn out. 
 
 The 
 
Part I. VITALY. Padua. 193 
 
 The Church of Sr * Anthony is very large, and * Thcy call 
 full of fine Pieces, both of Sculpture and Paint- himSt Anthony 
 ing. There are many magnificent Tombs in it, of Padua, be- 
 among which we obferved f that of Alexander ca ^ e he ^ ieci . 
 Contarini , Admiral of the Republick, and Pro- ^ there ; but 
 curator of St Mark \ and that of Count Horatio he was a 
 Sicco , who was killed at Vienna in the lafb Siege. Fran cif can of 
 I trank. ribed the following Epitaph, becaufe, it is 0 a ^ ry 
 
 Hiftorical, and was made upon one of your w j t h St Fran- 
 Countrymen. It has no Date. Temp. M. cif of JJJife. 
 
 Sefe Sponde , 
 
 Bellarmin, Trithemius, See f Erefted in the Year 1555. by Auguftin Zott, 
 
 Anglia quern genuit, fueratq\ habit ur a Patronum, 
 
 || Corioneum celfa hesc continet Area Ducem. 
 
 Credita canfa necis Regni affedlata cupido : 
 
 Regince optatum tunc quoque conmbium . 
 
 Cm Regni Proceres non confenfere , Philippo 
 Reginam Regi jungere pojfe rati. 
 
 Europam unde fuit Juveni peragrare necejje , 
 
 Ex quo mors mifero contigit ante diem. 
 
 Anglia ft plorat , de fundi 0 Principe tan to , 
 
 Nil mirum, Domino deficit ilia pio. 
 
 Sed jam Cortoneus Ccelo fruiturq \ Beatis ; 
 
 Cum doleant Angli , cum fine fine gemant. 
 
 Cortonei Probit as, igitur , Prczftantia , Nomen, 
 
 Dim ft obit hoc Tern plum, vivida femper erunt . 
 
 Angliaq*, hinc etiam ftabit, ftabuntq-, Britanni : 
 
 Conjugii opiati fama perennis erit. 
 
 Improba Natures leges Libitina § refeindens , 
 
 Ex eequo Juvenes prezcipitatq\ Senes. 
 
 There cannot be finer Painting in Frefco f thari 
 that of the Chape] of St Felix : it was done by 
 the famous Giotto, who excelled in that Sort of 
 Work. But that which is the moft confiderable ** Forty foot 
 in this Church is the ** Chapel of St Anthony , !^ ng, nt an ^ v . 
 the great Protector of Padua , whom, by way broadl^ Aug. 
 
 P 4 of Fort. 
 
 || The Lord 
 Court net, of 
 the Ancient 
 Houfe of 
 Court nay. 
 There are ftill 
 feveral emi- 
 nent Gentle- 
 men of that 
 Name in Eng- 
 land, to which 
 their Ance- 
 itors came 
 with William 
 the Con- 
 queror. 
 
 § Syllaba 
 longa. 
 
2l6 
 
 Padua. A New Voyage Vol. 
 
 of Eminency they call it Santo. His Body lies* 
 under the Altar, which is inriched with precious 
 Things. They fay that the Bones of this Saint 
 caft forth a very fweet Odour : thofe who have 
 the Curiofity to fmell them, go behind the Al- 
 tar to a certain Part which is not well joined, 
 and where one might eafily thruft in fome Bal- 
 fam, cr fuch like odoriferous Subftance: for 
 there are no fort of Tricks, the Monks are not 
 capable of playing, efpecially in this Country. 
 The whole Chapel is lined with Bajfo Relievo’s , 
 of white Marble, in which are reprefented the 
 principal Miracles of St Anthony. Almoft the 
 whole Work was done by Tullius Lombardus , Hie - 
 ronymo Campagna , and Sanfovin. There are alfo 
 Nine and thirty large Giver Lamps, which burn 
 Night and Day round the Altar. I will not trou- 
 ble you with that multitude of Stories, which 
 thofe who fhew this Chapel, are wont to relate 
 concerning their Saint. 
 
 From this Church we went to that of St Ju- 
 ftina , which is very large and beautiful ; though 
 it be far from the Perfection to which they de- 
 fign to bring it. It is paved with fquare Pieces 
 of Marble, red, black, and white the Roof of 
 the great Nave or Body of the Church hath 
 feven Domes, which give it both Light and 
 Ornament. There are alfo two Domes, on the 
 Roof of each Arm of the Crofs. Befides the 
 great Altar, which is a (lately Work, there are 
 Twenty four others of fine Marble. And where- 
 as the Church of St Anthony is full of Monu- 
 ments, they will not fuffer any in this : There 
 is * only one Infcription, which fays, That the 
 Church was built at the only Charge of the Con- 
 have^utup vent. The p BaJJb Relievo of the Benches in the 
 
 three or four 
 
 other Inscriptions which relate wholly to St JuJiina. f This Work was 
 performed in 22 Yean, by a Frenchman called Ricard. 
 
 Choir 
 
21 
 
 Part I. /o ITALY. Padua. 
 
 Choir is admirable, and the Defign is very fine 
 in all Refpedts. It reprefents the Prophecies of 
 the Old Teftament, relating to Chrift, with their 
 Accomplifhment in the New. The Martyrdom 
 of St Juftina , which is over the great Altar, 
 was done by Paul Veronefe . 
 
 I will not undertake to give you a particular * See Baron. 
 Defcription of this Church. The Monaftery is ^ nn - 7 z6 - anc l 
 alfo very large : it has fix Cloy iters, and feveral ^ 3 t ° the f ame 
 Courts and Gardens. I will not trouble you with gima, O neof 
 an Account of the Image of the Virgin, which the Polar 
 * flew from Conjlantinople when it was taken by ***p bidit 
 the Turks: Nor will I add any thing concern- g( j r 
 ing the Bodies of the Saints, or the other Relicks, Vcjftus deldol. 
 of which this Church is full •, for thefe Stories 1 . z. c. 30. 
 would engage me in endlefs Digrefiions. See alfo ® vid ' 
 
 67, &c. a - 
 
 The large open Place which is near to it 
 
 was formerly called the Field of Mars . I cannot bout Elehra, 
 imagine why People, who are fo fond of honour- one of the 
 able Titles, have robbed it of it’s ancient Name, Pleyades . — 
 to call it Amply, f Prato della •voile . the Meadow -j-Vhere^ a 
 of the Valley. little Space in 
 
 the midlt of 
 
 this Place called and diftinguifhed by the Name of Campo Santo ; becaufe, as 
 it is reported, feveral Martyrs fuffered Death in it heretofore, 
 
 || The Hall of the Town-Houfe is very large 
 and dark ; it is One hundred and ten common | ong 5 
 Paces long, and Forty broad ; and there are fe- broad, Angelo 
 veral Monuments in it, that were eredled for il- Portenari. 
 luftrious Perfons. Since Padua had the happy Thls *? a11 has 
 chance to redeem it’s Founder out of the Obfcurity 
 in which he had lain for near Three thoufand Year^ : anc j \ s not f U p- 
 It was but juft alfo, that the firft unknown Tomb ported by any 
 they met withal in this City, fhould lerve to ho- Flllars Pe * er 
 nour the Memory of Titus Livius , the famous wM^the^Ar- 
 Hiftorian who was born there, or there about. chitefl, and a 
 
 famous Necro* 
 
 mancer, fays Cardan, adorned the Roof with Conftellations, and Agrono- 
 mical Figures, which are Hill remaining. 
 
 The 
 
Padua. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 * The Difcovery of this pretended Tomb, in 
 the Year 1413, was attended with an univerfil 
 Joy and Acclamation of the People. There was 
 found in the Gardens of St Juflina a Coffin of 
 Lead, fix Foot long, not unlike that of Ante- 
 rior \ and they prefently concluded, that it was 
 the Coffin of Titus Livius , [Livii mox clamatur ,] 
 becaufe that Hiilorian was a Pried of Concord , 
 and the Convent of the Benedictines of St Jufti- 
 na y is built on the Ruins of a Temple, which 
 was of old confecrated to that Goddefs. When 
 the Noife of this Difcovery was fpread abroad, 
 all the City ran thither, with inexpreffible Tranf 
 ports of Joy and Zeal : Commi.gr are ad Ilium vidif 
 fes o'mnes ipfi Lanii , Sutorefque. The Peo- 
 
 ple touched their Beads on the Shrine of the fup- 
 pofed Titus Livius , as if he had been fome new 
 Saint. LumMemoridy f turn Reverentid Dentes fu- 
 rantur *, quamobrem , fero licet , fub clave fecretiore 
 clauduntur. Hiinc quafi Deum pene colebant , Cf ne 
 ijlis ojfibus, fi diutius Juperejfent , ad Gentilitia Populus 
 revocaretur , confuluity qui Abbatis tenebat vices , ea 
 ojfa 
 
 * The whole Story, with all it’s Particulars, at large, is re- 
 lated in a long Letter written in Latin by Sicco Polentonus , an 
 Eye-witnefs of it, to the Learned Nic. Florentin , dated the 
 firft of Nov. 1414* and this whole Letter was publifhed by the 
 curious and learned Lawrence Pignoria. in his Origini di Pa- 
 dua. Pag. 124. Polentonus was then Chancellor of Padua. 
 
 d Quidam ex oflibus fragmenta diripiebant : id, quafi ad 
 remulationem Reliqniarum Santtorum Dei impie faftum : Jac. 
 Cavacius cited by Sertorius Urfatus in his Monumenta Patazina , 
 Lib. 1. Se6L 1. Page 29. This Cavacius relates the fame 
 Things as Polentonus , whom he calls Xico y and not Sicco. 
 N. B. That there were fome Perfons, tho’ but a fmall Num- 
 ber of them, that difapproved of all thefe Idolatries and Foole- 
 ries ; witncfs the Abbot’s Brother, who would have burnt it 
 all. And there were, fays the fame good Polentonus , fome Ca- 
 lumniators, that durft fay, they could prove by Anatomy, 
 thefe Bones were the Bones of a Woman : but they were 
 forced to yield to the Multitude. 
 
Part I. to 
 
 ojja comburere \ ts> in pulverem ventis dare . — Ut con- 
 fluentium Multitudmem refrcenaret , furibufque occafi - 
 
 ITALY. Padua. 
 
 & in pulverem ventis dare.- 
 
 onem obfirueret , voluit Zacharias [Trevifanus Prcetor\ 
 froirio in penetrali ponu—Maufoleum decens fabri- 
 candum , omnes univoce dicnnt , contribuere polli - 
 
 cetur quifque. But many private Perfons offered to 
 be at all the Charge of that Manjoleum , provid- 
 ed they might ere<5t it in their own Houfe. Am - 
 pliffuni Viri , Cives optimi , Henricus Miles , Petrus 
 
 — Fratres Scroffegni pro liber alit ate fud offer ebant fe 
 omnem impenfam faffnros, fi ad domum fuam opus hoc 
 fabric ari daretur. Mem obtulit Ludovicus Buzzaca 
 rinus vir utique clarifs . literatifs. (A ditifs. at ne- 
 mo impetrare id potuit . — Every one rejoiced, that 
 he was born in that happy Age, when this pre- 
 
 cious Treafure was difcovered 
 
 Rem veluti 
 
 2 19 
 
 oblatam Divinitus efferunt . Spuique hoc contigiffe hac 
 JEtate maxirne coll&tantur . In fine, Titus Livius, 
 after he had efcaped being torn to pieces by a 
 People wonderfully fond of Relicks, was in- 
 clofed in a Wooden Coffin, that he might be the 
 more eafily carried. They loaded it with Branches 
 of Law r el [ ramufculis Lauri fuperfixisf\ and the 
 mod confiderable Perfons in the City, * carried 
 it ad Aulam , &c. \_Sicco Polcntonus himfelf was C effion [per 
 one of the Bearers.] The Monument, which is frequentiora 
 now to be feen, was eredted in the great Hall *frbis loca y . 
 of the Palace of Juftice and the following In- ^ onWth^ 
 fcription was afterwards added ; it having been Honorary 
 found, they fay, in the Neighbourhood of the wooden Cof- 
 Place, where the Temple of Concord formerly was 
 
 flood. 
 
 empty ; for 
 the Bones re- 
 niained in the 
 $47, as Serf onus Ur fat us has written. 
 , Monumentum verd Livii quod in 
 D. Juftinae iEde confervabatur Anno 1547, in Praetorium una cum iplius 
 ofHbus fuit tranflatum, ubi noftra Aitate confpicitur. 
 
 Church of St Juftina, till the Year 
 in his Monument a Patavina — 
 
 v F 
 
220 
 
 Padua. A New Voyage 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 * This Head 
 was in the 
 Foffeffion of 
 Alexander 
 Bajfan, a Gen- 
 tleman of Pa- 
 dua. Some 
 Antiquaries 
 think it is the 
 Head of Len- 
 tulus Marcel” 
 Knits, 
 
 V F 
 
 T. L I V I U S 
 LIVIAE T. F. 
 
 Q^V A R T A E L. 
 
 H A L Y S 
 CONCORD! ALIS 
 P A T A V I 
 SIBI ET SVIS 
 OMNIBVS. 
 
 A t the Top of this Monument there is a * Mar- 
 ble Head, which Orfatus fays, was given by A- 
 lexander Bajjano of Padua , to fupply the Place of 
 that of ’Titus Livius . The Brafs Statue, on the 
 right Hand in a Nich, holding a Branch and a 
 Globe, reprefents, if I am not miftaken, Eter- 
 nity. The other Statue on the Left, is Minerva . 
 Under the firft of thefe Statues, is the Tyber \ un- 
 der the fecond, the Medoacus ; and between thefe 
 two Rivers the She- Wolf Suckling the two fa- 
 mous Twins. In the middle of all, is the In- 
 fcription I have juft now mentioned. V F 
 T. LIVIVS, &c. and underneath a tender Mark 
 of the Zeal of the Gentlemen of Padua , for the 
 BEATO Titus Livius , the Glory of their City, in 
 thefe Words: by Lazarus Bonami, politiorum LU 
 terarum Profejfor in Gymn. Patav . 
 
 QJfa , tuumque Caput , Gives, Tibi , Maxime LW1 , 
 Prompto animo hie omnes compofuere tui : 
 
 Tu , Famam ceternam Roma ?, Pat risque dedifti ; 
 
 Buie Orient) illi , fortia Faff a canens. 
 
 At tibi dat P atria hcBc, Es? ft major a liceret 9 
 Hoc totus ft ares aureus ipfe loco , 
 
Parti. to ITALY. Padua. 
 
 221 
 
 T. L I V 1 U S. 
 
 gUARPO IMPERII UBERII C^E SARIS 
 
 ANNO 
 
 V IP A EXCESSIP. 
 
 Ai PAPIS VE RO SUAZ 
 
 LXXVI. 
 
 There are o- 
 ther lnfcrip- 
 tions that I 
 could add in 
 the Supple- 
 ment. 
 
 The Bones, the Head, and the Infcription 
 belong to Titus Livius , and to the naked Truth, 
 exadlly as it is true that Romulus and Remus have 
 fucked a She-JVolf : all fabulous things. But, 
 pray, confider the Condu6t of thefe People with 
 their Pagan Livius , whofe Bones they kept 124 
 Years in a Church, with a religious Venerati- 
 on ; whilft according to the Laws of their Inqui - 
 fition of Faith , they cruelly burn poor Chrifti- 
 ans, whofe Hope and Foundation of Religion 
 are the fame at theirs. 
 
 Mor eove R we mult obferve, that Titus Livius 
 was not properly of Padua : fome indeed pretend 
 he was born at Teolo *, Titulum : but Potenari , Un - 
 garellus , Pignoria , Orfato , Salomonius , and other 
 good Authors maintain it was at Apono , [ Aponum ,] 
 five Miles from Padua . 
 
 T o leave the Fables and Incertainties of An- 
 tiquity, and come to fomething that is new and 
 real : I fhall give you an account of another 
 Monument, which we faw in the fame Hall, 
 and which is worthy of Obfervation. Some 
 have exalted Sufanna above Lucretia , but it may 
 be juftly faid, that the Marchionefs d ’ Obizzi , 
 furpaffed Sufanna and Lucretia both ; fince when 
 fhe faw Death prefent before her, fhe refolved 
 to fuffer it couragioufly, rather than to fuffer 
 her Chaftity to be violated* A Gentleman of 
 Padua , was paflionately in love with this young 
 
222 Padua. A New Voyage Vol. 1 . 
 
 and beautiful Lady, and found an Opportunity 
 to get into her Chamber when fhe was in Bed, 
 in the Abfence of the Marquefs d 3 Obizzi her 
 Husband. It is probable that he tried the fofteft 
 and mod gentle Ways, before he proceeded to 
 A6ts of Violence. But at lalf, when he law he 
 could not prevail, his Love turned to Fury, and 
 he was fo tranfported with Rage, that he dabbed 
 this Virtuous Lady. Here is the Infcription : 
 
 Verier are Pndicitiee Simulachrum . C? Vidlimam , 
 Lucretiam de * Dondis ab Horologio Pyeenece de Obiz- 
 zonibus , Orciani Marchionis Uxorem. Heec inter 
 noftis tenebras , mariiales offerers tee das, furiales re- 
 centis Tdrquinii faces , cafto cruore , extinxit. Sicque 
 * It is a Noble Romanam Lucretiam , intemerati tori gloria vinciL 
 Family at Ve- L mice fuce Hercince generofis Manibus banc dicavit A- 
 
 nice. It is yam Civitas Patavina. Decreto . Die 21. Decemb. 
 
 laid that they . • 
 
 Kave added ab 
 Horologio be- 
 
 caufe one of their Predeceffors, was the Contriver of that great curious Clock 
 that is to be feen at Padua . 
 
 This is the Infcription, juft as I faw and tran- 
 feribed it, in the great Hall at Padua , the feventh 
 + 'J 12 * of December , 1687. But f now, and a great while 
 
 after that, as I am making fome Corrections 
 and Additions to the former Editions of this 
 Book, I found among my Papers, a different 
 Copy of the fame Infcription *, the Author of 
 which, is laid to be Dom Leon Maiina , Abbot of 
 Mont-Caffin , and Profelfor of Divinity at Padua 
 in 1674. I am very much mikaken if I have 
 not found this Honorary Epitaph in the Library 
 at IVolfenbuiel , near that of the Celebrated 
 Helena Cornaro , Helena Lucretia Cornelia Pifcopia . 
 However it be, I will add it here, to the former. 
 
 Venerare 
 
223 
 
 Part I. to ITALY. Padua. 
 
 Verier are, Hofpes , Pudicitice Simulacrum & Viftimam, 
 Cui banc Ara?n Patavini erexere Proceres : 
 
 LUC KEPI AM, fcilicet , BE DONDIS AS HO - 
 ROLOGIO , 
 
 Latinam Lucretiam interne rati Ihori 
 Gloria vicit. 
 
 Hcec , inter NoElis tenebras Maritales afferuit Tedas , 
 Et furiales recentis larquinii faces 
 cajlo cruore extinxit . 
 
 iVr Januas faucii oris , juguli , pettorifque , 
 Novaculd refer at as, 
 
 Candidam ejflavit Animam . 
 f or tis Heroines 
 
 Quam Humen Pio ANEAL ex OBIZZONIBUS , 
 Orciani Bynaftes Connubio junxit, 
 
 Gloriofis Manibus , 
 
 Patria Lacrymis, Italia Atramento 
 Parentavit . 
 
 ^ M. DC. LXXII. 
 
 You will doubtlefs commend the Paduans, for 
 taking care to eternize the Memory of fo rare 
 a Virtue, that met with fuch a barbarous Treat- 
 ment : And perhaps your Curiofity will prompt 
 you to defire the Continuation of the Story. 
 
 When the Marchionefs was furpriz’d in her 
 Bed, her only Son, about five Years old, was 
 with her •, but the Murderer having carried him 
 into a Neighbouring Chamber, before he perpe- 
 trated his horrid Villany, the Child could not fee 
 all that patted. The thing being* brought to 
 light, the faid Murderer was taken into Cuftody 
 upon Sufpicion, It was known that he had an 
 Inclination to the Marchionefs : The Child 
 gave fome Information •, fome Neighbours af- 
 firm’d, they had feen the Gentleman in that 
 Part of the City : they found a Button of his 
 Sleeve on the Bed, fellow to that which he ftill 
 
 wore j 
 
224 
 
 * The Ox- 
 College, fo 
 call’d, becaufe 
 it hands in a 
 Place where 
 
 Padua. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 wore ; and thefe Things were flrong Prefump- 
 tions of his Guilt. They, then, put him to the 
 Torture, both ordinary and extraordinary, but 
 he Hill denied the Fa£l ; and after fifteen Years 
 Imprifonment, his Friends, by their Importu- 
 nity, faved his Life;' and even, as I fuppofe, 
 obtained his Liberty, which yet he enjoyed 
 not long *, for fome Months after his Delive- 
 rance, the young Mar quels, which was the 
 Child I fpoke of, lliot him with a Piftol in the 
 Head, and fo revenged the Death of his Mother. 
 He is at prefent in Germany , in the Emperor’s 
 Service. 
 
 There are in this City feveral Cabinets of 
 Curiofities, and fome Ikilful Antiquaries. But 
 it mull be acknowleg’d, that Mr Patin , Pro- 
 fefifor of Phyfic, excels all the Critics in the 
 World, in explaining fuch Intricacies. Never 
 any Man was Mailer of a truer and more judi- 
 cious Talle for thefe Curiofities •, of a more ex- 
 ten five Knowledge in all other Refpe£ls about 
 Antiquity; or of a more obliging and commu- 
 nicative Temper. 
 
 It wou’d be unreafonable to leave Padua , 
 without giving you fome account ol the Uni- 
 verfity ; tho’ it mull be acknowledg'd, that ’tis 
 at prefent in a very mean Condition. Of 
 Ten Colleges, there are Nine employ’d in o- 
 ther Ufes : but * that which remains is a pret- 
 ty fine Building. There is nothing more re- 
 quir’d to become a Divine here, than to learn 
 by rote thofe wretched Schoolmen whofe Do- 
 
 there was for- 6lrine is as oppofite to true Divinity, as Dar fe- 
 rnery an Inn ne f 3 [ s to Light. The pretended Philofophy of 
 Ox 1C fbr h the an Ariftotle is that with which they are only acquain- 
 Sign. ’Tis alfo 
 
 call’d the Public Schools. There are Eleven Auditories in it, and a fine 
 Anatomical Theatre. The Univerfity was formerly at Trevife, 
 
 ted. 
 
22j 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Padua. 
 
 ted. And he that has furnifhed himfelf with a fuf- 
 ficient Stock of Sentences out of Hippocrates and 
 Galen , and is able to quote them in their own 
 ' Language, without forgetting the Book, Chap- 
 ter, or Paragraph, pafies, without difpute, for 
 a learned and expert Phyfician. 
 
 There are about Eight hundred Jews in 
 the City according to their own Computation. 
 They have three Synagogues. The Ghetto has 
 three Doors, and over the principal Door there 
 is an Infcription which begins thus, Ne Populo 
 Cceleftis Regni Hceredi ufus cum exhcerede ejfet , &c. 
 
 The Amphitheater of Padua was larger than 
 that of Verona ; yet there remains nothing of it 
 now but miferable Ruins. Lawrence Pignora gives 
 a fort of a Plan of it •, according to which it 
 is 710 Foot long, including the Thicknefs of 
 the Walls, and the reft of the Building. I muft 
 further tell you, before I end my Letter, that I 
 went lately into the Tennis-Court, and was fur- 
 prifed to find the Walls white, and .the Balls 
 black, and Rackets as large as Sieves : it is the 
 Cuftom of this Country. 
 
 
 Padua, Dec. 7. 
 1687. 
 
 I am, 
 
 SIR , 
 
 Tour , &c: 
 
 VOL. I, 
 
 Q_ LETTER 
 
226 
 
 A New Voyage 
 
 Vol. L 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Y T was an extraordinary Satisfaction to me 
 j[ to meet with your Letter in this Place ; for 
 befides the Pleafure 1 had to learn good News of 
 you you haye done me a fingular Kindnefs,. in 
 propofmg Queftions to me, about thofe Things 
 concerning which you defire to be moft particu- 
 larly informed. Allure your felf. Sir, my bell 
 Endeavours lhall not be wanting to anfwer your 
 Demands exa&ly: I entreat you to continue 
 the fame Method hereafter, that I may be better 
 enabled to fend you fuch Accounts as will be 
 acceptable to yourfelf, and thofe of our Friends, 
 to whom you communicate them. 
 
 You defire me to tell you fincerely, whether 
 ourprefent Travels be really pleafant to us ; or 
 at leaft, whether the Pleafure we take in them 
 be not over-balanced by the Trouble which they 
 give us. I am not at all furpriled that you 
 ihould entertain fuch a Doubt of it *, for tho* 
 we are neither among the Savages of America , 
 nor in the Defarts of Arabia , we have fometimes 
 the Mortification to meet with fome Difficulties. 
 The Weather is very rough •, the Way of Travel- 
 ling ordinarily unpleafant, and the Days fo ffiort, 
 that we get late in at Night, and rife very early : 
 We oftentimes meet with very hard Lodging, and 
 worfe Diet ; and befides. Travellers are certainly 
 expofed to many Dangers. Neverthelefs, with a 
 good ftock of Health, Money, Chearfulnefs, 
 and Patience, we have furmounted thefe Difficul- 
 ties, 
 
227 
 
 ! 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Venice. 
 
 ties, even almoft without being fenfible of them. 
 
 This I foy, withTime, Men acquire new CuftoVns, 
 and find eafy Remedies to many Evils. We take 
 fome Days of reft when we think we want it. 
 
 The Variety and perpetual Novelty of Objects 
 I recreate the Spirits as well as the Eyes. A little 
 wearinefs fupplies all the Defeats of a Bed, and 
 Exercife fharpens our Appetites : Offa , Cs? torus 
 herbaceus , famis labcris dulciffimce medelce funt. 
 
 With good Furrs we defended our felves againft 
 the Cold, in fpite of all the Frofts and Snows of 
 the Alps : and to conclude, without infifting 
 upon thofe general Reafons, which render Tra- 
 vels profitable and pleafant, I can allure- you, 
 that the tendered and moft delicate Perfons in 
 our Company, have hitherto eafily overcome all 
 thofe Obstacles, which might have baulked our 
 Pleafure and Satisfaction. Our ftay at Venice 
 will perfectly recruit us *, and when we fliall pro- 
 ceed on our Travels, the Sweetnefs of the Spring 
 will infenfibly begin to fucceed the Rigours of 
 the Winter. 
 
 I have let a whole Month pafs without writ- yg ^ I C E 
 ing to you, fince we arrived in this City, that 
 I might have Time and Opportunity to obferve 
 every Thing that is remarkable j and to refleCt at 
 Leifure upon what I fee, or hear. I will tell you 
 nothing but what I have feen my felf, or that 
 v/hich I have had particular Information of. You 
 are in the Right to conclude, that I will not un- 
 dertake to give you a full Defcription of Venice ; 
 that would be a Work too tedious, and foreign 
 to my Defign. And, I will not affeCt to tell you 
 only fuch new and fingular Things, which were 
 never mentioned by any other : But being willing 
 to be ignorant of what others have written •, I 
 (hall fpeak as an Eye-witnefs, and reprefent to 
 you, as naturally as I can, the principal Part of 
 0*2 fuch 
 
228 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 fuch Things as I fhall judge worthy of Obferva- 
 tion, without taking any Notice of what others 
 have faid. You will perceive, that I have chief- 
 ly taken Care to anfwer all particular Queftions 
 you have afked me : And if you have forgotten 
 Thing, you may acquaint me with it in your next 
 Letter. 
 
 VENICE is fo fingular a Place, and fo extra- 
 ordinary in all Refpedts, that I refolved to confider 
 it with Care : I fill my Memorials with all Sorts 
 of Things *, and I hope I fhall be able to give a 
 fatisfa&ory Anfwer to moft of your Queftions. 
 But I muft advertife you of two Things, before 
 I put an End to this little Preface. The firft is, 
 that I referve fome particular Obfervations, to be 
 communicated to you at a more proper Time : 
 The other is, that I will not oblige myfelf to any 
 Order in my Remarks, but relate Things as I 
 chanced to meet with them, which I have already 
 intimated to you in another Place. 
 
 We parted from Padua on the twentieth of 
 the laft Month, and came hither betimes that 
 Evening. There are many good Villages on the 
 Way, and a great many Houfes of Pleafure, 
 which belong to noble Venetians ; and were con- 
 trived, for the moft part of them, by Palladio . 
 Our Augsburg Vetturino brought us to Meftre> 
 which is a little Town on the Bank of the La - 
 gunes , five Miles from Venice . I have read fome- 
 where in Mezeraf s Hiftory, that the AdriatickSe a 
 * Others fay was frozen in the Year* 860, and that they went 
 in 859. in a Coach from the mainLand to Venice . As for us, 
 we were obliged to take Gondolas at Meftre , and 
 were about an Hour and an half on the Water. 
 VENICE, That.! may give you a true Idea of Venice , 
 called the rich. I muft in the firft Place defcribe thofe Waters in 
 the Miaft of which it is feated. The general Opi- 
 nion of Geographers is, that Venice is built in the 
 
 Sea, 
 
229 
 
 Part I. ^ ITALY. Venice. 
 
 Sea, and this in fome Meafure is true; neverthe- 
 lefs, it requires Explication: ’Tis certain it is not 
 the main Sea, but drowned Lands, yet, fuch as 
 were drowned before the Building of Venice *, that 
 is at the lead:, thirteen or fourteen hundred Years 
 ago. The greated Ships fail in fome Places on 
 thofe Waters ; and there are Chanels by which 
 thole that are not of a greater Burthen than two 
 hundred Tuns, can go up to Venice itfelf. 
 
 The principal Canals that lead from the Land 
 to Venice , are thofe of Lido, Mamaloco , and Chief a. Didier 
 
 As for the Canals of Fucino , Meftre , St Erafmus an Author 
 and of the three Gates , they are of lefs Confidera- particularly 
 tion. There are feveral others •, butfeldom any informed, has 
 Boats, except thofe belonging to Fifhermen, or ^ tte ^ n 
 of the fame largenefs, that venture into thefe Defcription of 
 lad : Nay even the Water of the Canal call’d Fu - Venice,Cbap. i. 
 eino, is at prefent fupplied by Sluices. The Courfes ?° 
 of thefe Waters, and Roads, are marked by ^xiv concem- 
 long Poles thrud into the Water at a certain Di- ing the Flux 
 dance from each other •, a very necefiary Precau- and Reflux, 
 tion, when Water coming from the Sea lays all &c * 
 the Lagunes at Level *, for the Canals are not ex- 
 actly draight. Thofe fait Waters have a free 
 Communication with the main Sea, by the eb- 
 bing and flowing of the Tides. The Oyders, and 
 other Shell-fith dick to the Foundations of the 
 Houfes of Venice and Murano , as they do to the 
 Rocks in the middle of the Sea *, fo that it may be 
 faid in a Manner, that Venice is feated in the Sea. 
 
 Yet, as that drowned Land was formerly a Ma- 
 rifh •, and as thefe W r aters which have little 
 Depth, are but a draining, or an overflowing of 
 the ancient Sea, this Extent of Water is only con- 
 fidered at Venice, as a Lake orMarifh, and they 
 gave it the Name of Lacuna . I obferve, that the 
 greated Part of Strangers adopt this Word, every 
 one difguifing it according to his own Language, 
 
 0^3 for 
 
Venice. A New Voyage Vol.I. 
 
 for want of a fitter Term to exprefs it. La erne 
 hath another Signification in French, which per- 
 haps is the Reafon that they change here the C 
 into G and call it Lagunes. Tho’ this be a bar- 
 barous Word, and newly invented, I muft make 
 ufe of it, rather than give myfelf the Trouble 
 to contrive another. 
 
 * They have Mills, and other Machines, to 
 empty the Mud and Oufe, which gather continu- 
 ally, and difeover themfelves in feveral Places, 
 when the Sea is at the lowed Ebb. They have 
 turned the Mouth of the Brent a, and fome other 
 Rivers, to prevent their throwing of Mud and 
 Sand into the Lagunes *, and that the Earth may 
 not regain from the Sea, which would be very 
 prejudicial to Venice , whofe Strength and Security 
 confifts in it’s Situation. ’Tis true, that as this 
 City is obliged to labour incefTantly, to keep the 
 Waters which inviron it at a certain Depth, to 
 prevent it’s being re-united to the Continent ; fo 
 it would not be for it’s Advantage in every re- 
 fpedb, that thefe Waters fhould have a great and 
 general Depth; becaufe while Things remain in 
 or near the fame Pofture they are now in, it is, 
 in a Manner, impofiible to approach to Venice , 
 either by Sea or Land, f When Pepin , Son of 
 
 Charlemagne , 
 
 * Thofe that have criticifed upon thefe Mills, as if we were 
 fpeaking of Windmills, have difputed againft a Chimera of their 
 own Imagination : Moulin in French , is ufed to exprefs all 
 Sorts of Machines, which being moved by outward Force, give 
 a violent Impreffion on Things. Confult the Dictionaries of 
 the Academy, and Furetiere, upon the Word Moulin. There 
 are feveral Sorts of Machines made ufe of, to throw up the Sand 
 and Mud, by which the Canals would infenfibly be filled up. 
 
 f Our famous Hillorian Mezeray, fays pofitively, that Pepin 
 failed from the Port of Ravenna , and entered the Lake of Ve- 
 nice’, but, that for want of being informed of it’s Depth, 
 Muddinefs, and Difficulty of the Road, his Fleet met with a 
 terrible Difafter in it. Abrege de Mezeray, dans la vie de 
 Charlemagne. 
 
Part I. VITALY. Venice. 23 I 
 
 Charlemagne , King of Italy , undertook to expel 
 the Doge Maurice , and likewife his Son who 
 was his Afiociate, he parted from Ravenna with 
 his Fleet, imagining that he could eafily find a 
 Pafiage thro* the Canals : But whild the Doge’s 
 Ships fleered their Courfe through the navigable 
 Chanels, without meeting with any Misfortunes, 
 
 Pepin’s Veflels (truck, and funk in the Mud on 
 all Sides ^ fo that after a great Lofs, he was con- 
 drained to fly with the Remainders of his wreck’d 
 Fleet. It is manifefl, that could this Fleet have 
 pafled every where with full Sails, this Expedi- 
 tion mud have fucceeded better. ’Tis three 
 hundred and odd Years fince the Genoefe received 
 the like Difgrace/ 
 
 I believe you do by this time fufficiently * T 
 comprehend what is meant by the Lacune di Ve- has been in- 
 netia : Reprefent then alfo to yourfelf the City confiderately 
 of Venice , which rifes out of the midd of thefe conteftcd > as if 
 Waters, with thirty or forty large Steeples; and f^goftK* 
 is at lead a League and a hair didant irom the Waves of a 
 Land. ’Tis certainly a very fur prizing Objetfl to Like, and of 
 fee this great City without any Walls, or Ram- to c ^ 
 parts, beaten on every Side with the * Waves, and t hl°Diai. 
 yet remain on it’s Piles as firm as on a Rock. onary of theA- 
 
 cademy, before 
 
 they venture to make fuch a Criticifm. I’ll fay here, the Cenfurer ought to be 
 informed, that Placentia , or Cremona are not, to fpeak ftri&ly, feated 
 on the Banks of the Po , in fuch Manner that they are wafhed by the 
 Streams of that River. Both Placentia and Cremona are fituated above five 
 hundred Paces from it : One may come into Cremona through a Canal drawn 
 from the Po. 
 
 I know that all Geographers agree, that Ve- 
 nice is compofed of feventy two Ides *, nor will 
 I controvert fo generally received an Opinion : 
 
 But I mud confefs, that I can by no Means con- 
 ceive what thefe feventy two Ides diould be *, and 
 I dare afiiire you, that this Account gives a falfe 
 Q_4 Notion 
 
Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 Notion of the Ground- Plot and Situation of this 
 City. It fhould feem by this Defcription, that 
 there were feventy two little Hills, one near the 
 other ; and that thefe little Eminencies being all 
 inhabited, had at laft formed the City v of Venice ; 
 which. is not at all true. Venice is generally fiat, 
 and built on Piles in the Water for the mod Part. 
 The Water wafhes the Foundations of the Houfes 
 which it touches, to the Height of four or five 
 Feet •, and the Breadth of every Canal is paral- 
 lel. ’Tis true, they have made the bed Ufe of 
 feveral Spaces of a reafonable Bignefs, which 
 may, indeed, give Occafion for one to believe, 
 that there was formerly fome Land there, but not 
 feventy two Ifles. 
 
 For the Streets, they are very narrow, and 
 the mod Part of them feem to have been filled 
 and raifed with Mud and Rubbifli, efpecially 
 along the Canals ; but it is not at all probable, 
 that they have a folid natural Ground. If all the 
 Divifions which the Canals make, were reckoned 
 for Ifles, we fhould find near two hundred, in 
 dead of feventy two. It might be farther ob- 
 ferved, that the Number of thefe Ifles might 
 be arbitrarily increafed, and new ones made in 
 any Place, by fixing Piles, and building Houfes 
 upon them *, as Bridges are built by Means of 
 j Bajlardeaux in the deeped, muddied, and mod 
 rapid Rivers : Nay, even in the Sea alfo, as at 
 Pozzuolo and Dunkirk , befides feveral Moles, in 
 a great many Havens of the Sea : So that taking 
 the Thing after this Manner, they could make 
 fuch artificial Ifiands where they pleafe. 
 
 We are not to give Credit to what is com- 
 monly faid of the Greatnefs of Venice: Some 
 give it eight Miles Circuit, and others allow but 
 feven. As for me, I afifure you Venice is neither 
 eight nor feven Miles in Compafs. They reckon 
 

 Part I.' VITALY. Venice. 233 
 
 five Miles from Meftre to Venice , which Way 
 we came in an Hour and half, with two Rowers > 
 and we took a Turn about Venice in the fame 
 Space of Time, with two other Rowers, who 
 made neither more nor lefs Hafte than thofe 
 of Meflre : Judge then by this, of the Circuit 
 of that City. Confidcr too, that our Gondola was 
 frequently obliged to defcribe a larger Compafs, 
 to avoid the little Capes which the City makes 
 in feveral Places •, and by Confequence the Line 
 that it made was much greater than the true 
 Circuit of the City. Befides, to mark the Cir- 
 cumference of a City, without confidering it’s 
 Figure, is not a competent Way to determine 
 the Largenefs of it’s Extent. One might eafily This is what 
 demonftrate, without great Help of Mathema- 
 ticks, that a City which is eight Miles in Com- //’which had 
 pafs, for Example, may contain a lefs Number but forty eight 
 of Houfes, than another City which is only Stadiums in 
 four Miles, or lefs if you pleafe. This depends Co . m P ars > 
 upon the Regularity or Irregularity or the Ei -Megalopolis, 
 gure. This Truth, which is undeniable, is the which had 
 Reafon that I never will pretend to reprefent [A?*?: 
 the Bignefs of Cities by the Meafure of their dlum c0 ?j;*\ n 
 Circuit *, for that might betray you into very con- anc j twenty 
 fiderable Errors. I fhall ufually content myfelf, five Geometri- 
 with telling you, that a City is either large, or cal Hces.) 
 very large •, little, or very little: And I am 
 perfwaded that fuch Exprefiions as thefe, may 
 give you a fufficient Idea of it’s Extent. 
 
 The Number of Inhabitants is another Thing 
 which is haftily determined, but feldom well 
 examined. It is commonly reported at Venice , 
 that there are two hundred thoufand Souls in 
 the City, and fome have advanced the Number to 
 Three hundred thoufand j but we muft not rely up- 
 on thefe frivolous Opinions. When the Trade of 
 Venice flourifhed, ’tis probable enough, that the 
 
 Number 
 
34 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Number of it’s Inhabitants was much greater than 
 it is at prefent : But if we may give Credit to 
 the Report of a Perfon who hath been fettled 
 here for a long Time, and affures me, that his 
 Calculation is very exa<5t ; Venice does not at pre- 
 fent contain more than an hundred and thirty or 
 forty thoufand Souls, comprehending the Ifle of 
 Gindeca. 
 
 Those who pleafe themfelves with reprefent- 
 ing Venice as a very populous City, take great 
 Care to inculcate, that it has neither Gardens, 
 nor void Places, nor Church-yards *, and that 
 the Streets are very narrow. But when, on the 
 other Hand, they would defcribe the Beauty of 
 Venice , they magnify it’s Gardens, it’s Places or 
 Squares, and the Breadth and Number of it’s 
 Canals. I read the other Day in a Venetian Au- 
 thor, that he counted in Venice fifty three pub- 
 lick Places, and Three hundred and thirty five 
 Gardens. Thus you may fee how varioufly 
 things are reprefented. But to fpeak the Truth, 
 there is a Mixture of Truth and Falfhood on 
 both Sides. I will not deny, that there may be 
 fifty three Spaces, great and final], to which 
 this Author hath thought fit to give the Name 
 of Places ; and the fame might be faid of his Gar- 
 dens. But if we take a particular View of thefe 
 Places and Gardens, we mufl conclude him to. be 
 too prodigal of fuch honourable Titles. To 
 Ipeak properly, there is but one Place at Venice , 
 the famous and magnificent Place of St Mark . 
 But let us allow him the Liberty to beftow that 
 Name on five or fix void Spaces more, which 
 are neither large nor beautiful ; yet all this 
 comes far fhort of fifty three Places. There 
 are alfo fome Gardens here and there, parti- 
 cularly towards Santa Maria del ’ Onto but if we 
 fet afide fifteen or twenty, or fhould even allow 
 
 thirty. 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 235 
 
 thirty, or thirty five, to deferve to be fo called, 
 
 I can pofitively aver, that the three hundred 
 which remain, would not, one with another, 
 be ten Foot fquare *, and are not thefe very noble 
 Gardens ? Nor is the other Account exsdtly true; 
 for befidcs the Gardens and void Spaces that are 
 in Venice, there are many Parts of it very thinly 
 inhabited. ’Tis true, indeed, there are no Church- 
 yards. As for the Argument that is brought 
 from the Narrownefs of the Streets, it is a So- 
 ph ifm eafy to be cleared. The Streets are nar- 
 row, I confefs, and fo narrow, that the juft- 
 ling of Elbows in the moft frequented of them 
 is very troublefome ; but pray, fure the Canals 
 ought not to be reckoned inftead of Streets ? If 
 the Canals were filled and paved, the Narrow- 
 nefs of the Streets could not be ailed ged. 
 
 I must tell you, fince we are on this Sub- 1 find Mr dt 
 jedt, that all the City is fo divided with thefe has 
 
 Canals and Streets, that there are but few Houfes fame 1 Thing[ 
 which you may not go to by Water as well as Parti. Cb. iv r 
 by Land ; though every Canal is not bordered 
 with a double Quay, as in Holland , for the Con- 
 veniency of thofe who go on Foot. There 
 are, indeed, * fome of thefe •, but very often * On theCa- 
 the Canal takes all the Space from one Row of nal&rggw,aiid 
 Building to another. The Streets are in the fome others * 
 little Iftes that are borrowed from the Canals ; and 
 there are about Four hundred and thirty Bridges 
 difperfed among thole Canals ; fo that there are 
 few Parts of the City, to which one may not go 
 either with or without a Gondola . *Tis true, all 
 thefe little Pafiages, and all the Turns that muft 
 be made to find the Bridges, make Venice a true 
 Labyrinth. But the belt Way of giving you a Inferted Vol. 
 juft Idea of the Plan of Venice , is to lend you a P a S- 4 g S* 
 
 Draught of it, which is the moft exadt of all 
 thofe that have been feen by me. 
 
 The 
 
236 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 The famous Piazza of St Mark was the firft 
 Place which our Curiofity prompted us to vifit, 
 after our Arrival at Venice *, and it is really the 
 Soul and Glory of that City. The Church of 
 St Mark fronts one of the Parts of this Place, 
 and that of St Geminian the oppofite •, and the 
 ProcuratieSy which are both very regular Build- 
 ings of a Sort of Marble, and finely adorned, 
 border the two Sides of the Place with large Por- 
 ticos •, which much enlarge it, and at the fame 
 Time contribute to ids Embellifhment and Con- 
 veniency. This Place is two hundred and four- 
 fcore Paces long, and One hundred and ten broad. 
 When you come from the Church of St Gemi- 
 The Gallery man towards that of St Mark , and inftead of 
 th^s fecond enter ^ n S there, you turn to the Right-hand ; the 
 Place is al- Place turns alfo, forming an Equerre, or a Right- 
 ways kept in angle *, and this fecogd Place, whofe Extre- 
 Readineis for m jty reaches to the Sea, is T wo hundred and 
 ^? lon ; *f nc _ fifty Paces long, and fourfcore broad : This is 
 ly inthatPlace, the Part which they call the Broglio . The Palace 
 that it may be of the Doge is on one Side of it, and the Pro - 
 always at hand C ur aties are continued on the other. All this 
 unex^aed^ confidered together, makes an admirable Show, 
 Accident. ’Tis and may pafs for a moft noble Place, 
 commonly 
 
 laid, that the Galley Slaves learn their Exercife there. 
 
 The Tower of St Mark is near the Angle of 
 the Equerre within, and does a little fpoil the 
 Symmetry of the Place. This Tower is about 
 three hundred Foot high, comprehending the 
 The Figure of Angel, whiqh ferves for the Weathercock, 
 an Angel. Formerly the Top and the Angel being all over 
 gilt, when the Sun fhined, thofe at Sea might per- 
 ceive the Tower at thirty Miles Diflance \ but 
 now the Gold is gone, it feared y appears. You 
 go up tothisTower by a Stair, without Steps, like 
 
 that 
 
2J7 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Venice. 
 
 thatatSdr/iw, and at Geneva •, of which I remember 
 I have difcourfed with you. You may eafily judge 
 of the Beauty, Variety , and Rarity of the Landfcape 
 which is difcovered from the Top of that lower. 
 
 The Broglio is the Walk of the Nobles : They The Word 
 take up always one Side of the Place \ fometimes 
 for Sun, and fometimes for Shade, according to ro denoted’ 
 the Sealon. Since thefe Nobles are very nume- Sorts of Solli- 
 rous, and not eafily to be accofted any where citations »nd 
 elfe, the Broglio is the general Rendezvouz, where ^atar^carSd 
 Vifits are made, and a great deal of Bufinefs on by intrigue- 
 difpatched. NoPerfon isfuffered to mingle with mg. 
 them, on that Side of the * Broglio , where they *Onemaypafs 
 walk, excepting in eroding *, but the other Side thro’ them in 
 is free. This Place is fo particularly deftined, his Way to an 
 and fet apart for them, that when a young No- oth ^ r Place - 
 bleman is come to the Age required for Admit- 
 tance into the Council, and to take the Robe, the 
 fir ft Day he puts it on, four Noblemen, or more, 
 of his Friends, do ceremonioufty introduce him 
 into the Broglio •, and when any of them are ba- 
 nifhed the Council, at the fame Time they are 
 reftrained from appearing on the Broglio. 
 
 It was about the Beginning of the ninth Cen- 
 tury, that the Merchants of Venice brought the 
 Body of St Mark thither ; which, ’tis faid, they 
 had dug out of the Earth, in the City of Alex- 
 andria in Egypt , by I know not what Chance. 
 
 And as there is a certain Tradition, that this 
 Evangelift being in Prifen, Chrift appeared to 
 him, and faluted him in thefe Words, Pax tibi 
 Marce Evangelift a mens •, the Senate of Venice re- 
 ceived the holy Corps, or Bones, with the 
 fame Words, when it was brought to their City : 
 
 And that’s the Reafon why the fame Words are 
 written upon the open Book, held by the Lion 
 of St Mark , in the Arms of Venice . You may 
 imagine, that there was great Rejoicing for the 
 
 Polfeflion 
 
238 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Poffeffion of the Relicks of this Evangelift ; of 
 which it feems they could give no greater Tefti- 
 mony, than by preferring him, as they did, be- 
 fore poor St Theodore , the ancient Patron of the 
 Republick, who had not given them the leaft 
 Caufe of Complaint. But they ftopt not here ; 
 for befides divers other Honours which they paid 
 to the Bones of the New-comer, they built the 
 above-mentioned Church to his Honour, and 
 placed there that facred Treafure. It is true, 
 they took fo little Care to fet a Mark upon the 
 Shrine or Tomb, that at prefent they cannot 
 pofitively tell where it is *, which is no fmall 
 Afflidtion to thofe who have an extraordinary 
 Devotion for this Saint. 
 
 I will not flop to relate the Story of his Ap- 
 parition, which they fay, happened two hun- 
 dred and feventy Years after they had brought 
 him to Venice , when he fhewed his Arm to the 
 Doge, and gave him a Ring of Gold, which is 
 carried every Year in Proceffion, on the twenty- 
 fifth Day of June . Nor will I trouble you with 
 many other Stories which are told on this Oc- 
 cafion. 
 
 The Patriarchal Church is dedicated to St Pe- 
 ter ; and that of St Mark , as rich as it is, is 
 but a Chapel : ’Tis the Doge’s Chapel. The 
 Primicerio , who is the Dean of the Canons of 
 St Mark , wears a Mitre and Rochet, as Biffiops 
 do, and depends not on the Patriarch. I have 
 feen him officiate on Chriftmas-Day in great Cere- 
 mony *, the Altar being adorned with the richeft 
 Pieces in the Treafury : He is always a noble 
 Venetian^ and his yearly Revenue amounts to 
 about a thoufand Pounds Sterling. 
 
 The Church of St Mark deferves an exa£t 
 Defcription •, but that would be too great a 
 Work for a Traveller : And therefore I ffiall 
 
 content 
 
Parti. /<? ITALY. Venice. 239 
 
 content myfelf with giving you fome general The Church is 
 Account of it. It is a fquare Stru&ure, or al- n e ^ r ^ s r ^ rt " 
 moft iquare, built after the Greek Fafhion, dark, w jfe. There 
 and indifferent high, but extraordinarily enriched are.many Go- 
 with Marble, and Mofaick Work. The Roof ^ icft Orna- 
 confifts of feveral Domes, and that in the fallhed Armo 
 Midit is larger than the reft. Among all the 1071. accord- 
 Statues with which the Outfide of the Church is ing to Alex. 
 adorned, there are but two good ones •, the ^ ar * Via nolu 
 Adam and Eve by Riccio , which you fee when 
 you defcend the great Stairs of the Palace. I 
 fpeak not of the four brazen Horfes which are 
 over the great Gate, becaufe they are foreign 
 Pieces which were placed there accidentally. I The Church 
 learned from a fkilful Antiquary, that thefe has 
 
 Horfes were harneffed to a Chariot of the Sun, Privilege, 1 that 
 that ferved for an Ornament to a Triumphal- they fay’iviafs 
 Arch, which the Senate of Rome ere&ed for j} ic at fix . a 
 Nero , after the Victory which that Prince ob- lo ^ k at .Night 
 tained over the Parthians *, which may be ltill Eve. S. Did. 
 feen, faith he, on the Reverfe of fome of his A great Pre- 
 Medals. Conftantine the Great , carried them from ro S at i ve - 
 Rome to Conftantinople , where he placed them in 
 the Hippodrome *, and at laft the Venetians having 
 made themfelves Matters of that City, brought 
 hither many of it’s rich Spoils *, of which Number 
 were thefe four Horfes. One may ftill perceive, 
 in fome Places, that they were gilded. 
 
 One of the Things which feems to me moft 
 remarkable in the Church of S tMark, is the vaft 
 Quantity of MofaicVN ork with which it is adorned. 
 
 All the Pavement is made of it, and all the arch- * See the Mo „ 
 ed Roof is lined with it : Since you have feen nument of 
 but few of this kind of * Work, and defire me s - Edward at 
 to give you fome Account of it, I will explain ^l^ie^ve 
 it to you as well as I can. Mofaick Work came ment> before 
 originally from Greece \ but *tis plain, that ic hath the Altar, in 
 been ufed in Italy for near two thoufand Years. 
 
 Vitruvius Church ' 
 
240 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Vitruvius , who lived in the Time of Auguftus , 
 fpeaksof it under the Terms of opus feftile, pavi- 
 menta feftilia, opera mu fa a & mufiva : ft was alfo 
 called, 'TeJJellatum , & vermiculatum opus . 
 
 All Works compofed of little inlaid Pieces, 
 whether they be of Stone, Wood, Ivory, Ena- 
 mel, or any other Matter ; whether they be Re- 
 prefentations of natural Things, or only Morifk 
 or fantaftical Ornaments ; all thefe are compre- 
 hended under the Name of Mofaick- Work: So 
 that there are feveral Sorts of it. You know what 
 we call Marqueterie , a Sort of inlaid Work : You 
 have alfo feen fome of thofe fine Works of Flo - 
 rence-Stonz •, in a general Senfe, all thefe are Mo - 
 faick-Work. *Tis true, that which is more parti- 
 cularly called Mofaick- Work, and is one of the 
 great Ornaments of the Church of St Mark , is' not 
 exadtly wrought after the fame Manner. For want 
 of natural Stones, which would have been hard 
 to find for fo vaft a Work, and would have re- 
 quired an immenfe Time to polifh and prepare *, 
 they were forced to ufe Paftes, and Compositions 
 of Glafs and Enamel melted, and made in a Cru- 
 cible ; this takes a lively and Alining Colour, 
 which never wears, nor flains. Every Piece of the 
 Mofaick- Work in this Church is a little Cube, 
 which is not above three Lines thick, or fome- 
 times four at the mod. All the Field is of Mo- 
 faick gilded with very bright Gold, and incorpo- 
 rated in the Fire, upon the Surface of one of the 
 Faces of the Square or Cube : And all the Fi- 
 gures, with their Draperies and other Orna~ 
 ments, are coloured according to Nature, by 
 the due laying together of all the Pieces of the 
 Work. All thefe little Bits are difpoled accord- 
 ing to the Defign which the Workman has be- 
 fore his Eyes, and are joined clofe together, in 
 the Cement that was prepared to receive them *, 
 
 which 
 
Part L to ITALY. Venice. 241 
 
 which prefently after becomes hard. The belt * Each of thefe 
 Quality of this Work is it’s Solidity. It has lad- rma11 Plece r s ? 
 ed more than fix hundred Years without the lead: Judg^dofome- 
 Diminution of it’s * Beauty. times cleave a-* 
 
 The Pavement of the Church is alfo extream- lender j lo 
 ly curious; and though it is fpoiled, and in fome wn 
 Places worn, it may be thought a kind of Mi- 0 f being ie- 
 racle that fuch large Pieces remain (till entire, paired, 
 alter they have been troden under Foot for fo 
 many Ages. They are little Pieces of Jafper , 
 
 Porphyry , Serpentine , and Marble of divers Co- 
 lours, which form Compartiments quite different 
 from one another. 
 
 I pass by the Relicks, the miraculous Images, 
 and other holy Rarities , which are in this 
 Church ; and fhall only make mention of one of 
 them, which I thought the mod: curious ; I mean 
 the Rock which Mcfes {truck in the Wildernefs. 
 
 This is in the Chapel of Madona della Scarpa , or 
 of Cardinal Zeno , at the End of the Baptiftery : 
 
 It is a kind of greyifh 7* Marble ; and there can 
 be nothing more pleafant, than the four little pofjtively^tell 
 Holes out of which they affirm the Water ifiued : whether it be 
 They are about two Fingers from each other, a Piece of the 
 and the Bore of each Hole is no bigger than the ^reb. 
 Hollow of a Goofe- Quill. ’Tis certainly doubly 0 *° 0 'f 0 p 
 miraculous, that fo much Water* in fo little j Kadez, in the 
 Time, fhould idfue out of fuch narrow Holes, Defart of Z/>. 
 as was Efficient to quench the Third: of an Ar- Numb. ax. 8. 
 my of Six hundred thoufand Men, with their 
 Wives, Children, and Cattle. He Jlruck the 
 ' S tony- Rock , and the Water gujhed out in Abundance . 
 
 Pfal. lxxviii. 20. 
 
 The Madona that gives the Name to the Cha- 
 pel, the Angel over-againd: her on the other 
 Side, and the little Manger which is to be feen 
 in the fame Place, were all cut out of the Rock 
 which Mofes ftruck ; if you think fit to believe 
 
 Yot,. I, R my 
 
242 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 my Informers *, and the whole was brought from 
 Constantinople* Thefe Words are engraved under 
 the Stone, with the four Holes, Aqua quce prius 
 ex petra miraculose fiuxit , oratione Prophet a Mofis 
 produfia eft . Nunc autem hcec Micbaelis ftudio la - 
 hitur ; quern ferva , Chrifte , & Conjugem Irenem . 
 That, Nunc autem hcec labitur , is a Paffage which 
 I muft confefs I do not underftand •, nor could 
 I meet with any Man that could explain the 
 Meaning of it. 
 
 * Father Ma They ma ^ e us take Notice of a * Piece of 
 billon writes* Porphyry , enchafed in the Pavement, in the Mid- 
 in his Iter It a- die of the Portico of the Church, over-againft 
 licum,thatLa- the great Door: It is to mark the Place where 
 pidi rubeo t h e y p a y p 0 p e Alexander III fet his Foot on the 
 TuZ? Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbarojfa , when 
 in quo Alex- that Prince came to fubmit to him for the ob- 
 ander III. taining of a Peace. I am not ignorant, that 
 barbi collo" Baronius , and fome others, have criticifed this 
 pedem impo- Story, and rejeded it as a Fable : But I muft take 
 fuiffe didtur ; this Qccafion to tell you, by the By, that what- 
 his liter is in- ever Probability may feem to be in the Realons 
 AfpiderTX they alledge, they cannot pafs for more than 
 Bahlifcum Sufpicions and Conjedtures, if not fpontaneous 
 ambulabis. Lies •, and can never amount to a convincing Re- 
 The Stone is f u t a tion of a Story attefted by fo great a Number 
 
 ther l^there^ °f wort ^Y anc ^ credible Authors, 
 any Plate, or 
 
 Piece of Metal fattened to it, nor any Words engraven upon it. ’Tis fome- 
 what ftrange, that the Father Ihould mittake fo often in fo fmall a Compafs. 
 But perhaps he relied too much upon his Memory, which, it feems, was not 
 a very faithful Guide. 
 
 You may fee the whole Story at length in Bodin. 1 . i. c . x. J . Carion re- 
 lates, in the fourth Book of his Chronicle, that Theodore , Marquefs of Mifnia f 
 who was prefent, could not forbear exprelfing his Indignation by fome threat- 
 ning Geftures, ' when he faw the Emperor thus trampled under Foot : And 
 that the Pope was fo alarmed with thefe Menaces, that he treated the Empe- 
 ror afterwards with great Demonftrations of Kindnels and Refpeft, 
 
 ALEXANDER 
 
243 
 
 Part I. ^ ITALY. Venice. 
 
 ALEXANDER Ilf. was a haughty Man •, his 
 Enemies had provoked him, and he had at laft 
 the Pleasure to triumph over an Emperor, and 
 Four Anti-popes. At the very Time of his Flight 
 into France , he was lb proud as to fuffer * two * i ew i s the 
 Kings, who met him, to alight, and both to young. King 
 take the Reins of his Bridle, and lead his Horfe ^Dranc^^nl 
 to the Lodging prepared for him. If he did this £^gof *Eng- 
 in his Difgrace, what might he not be fuppofed land. 
 to do in his Profperity ? See , p. 247. 
 
 From the Church of St Mark you enter into 
 the T reafury : three Procurators of St Mark are 
 the Adminillrators of it ; and it is never opened, 
 but in the Prefence of one of them. In the firlt 
 Place, you fee fome Relicks, as Pieces of the 
 true Crofs ; Bones of dead Perfons *, the Hair 
 and Milk of the Virgin, &V. From thence you 
 pafs into another Chamber, where the real Trea- 
 sure is kept. The greateft Part of the Things to 
 be feen there, were brought from Conjlantinople y 
 at the fame Time with the brazen Horfes, which 
 I mentioned before. I fhall only name fome of 
 the molt confiderable Pieces. 
 
 The two Crowns of the Kingdoms of Candia 
 and Cyprus ; many fine Vefiels of Agate , of the 
 Root of Emeralds, and of Cryftal : ’Tislaid, that 
 thefe Velfels belonged to the Cupboard of Con - 
 ftantine. A kind of Bucket eight Inches deep, 
 and as many in Diameter, made of one Piece of , T . g moft cer- 
 Granate *, a very fair Sapphire, which, they fay, tain, that thefe 
 
 Stones are fine. 
 
 The Republic!*: had formerly, fays S. Did. a Gold Chain which was fo long 
 and heavy, that it required fortyMen to carry it, befides twelve or lifreenMillions 
 in Gold, which was never touched but by thole who were employed on certain 
 Occafions to tell it over. They caufed the Chain to be extended along the Por- y 
 tico of the Palace, and made a Heap of Pieces of Gold betwixt each Column. 
 The Republick added every Year lome Links to the Chain, and laid up fome 
 Gold in the Treafury. But this Treafury was partly exhaufted by the War 
 of Candia ; and fome Venetian Families have alio found a Way to enrich 
 themlelves with the Spoils of it. 
 
 R 2 weighs 
 
 ~N, 
 
244 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 weighs ten Ounces ; twelve Corflets of Gold, 
 garnifhed with Pearls *, twelve Head-Tires in 
 form of Crowns, which they lay were worn in' 
 certain Ceremonies by the Maids of Honour of 
 the Emprefs Helena. A Cup of one Turquoife> 
 with Egyptian Characters •, this Cup is feven In- 
 ches in diameter, and three and a half in depth : 
 
 A Picture of St J erom^ in fine Mofaick ; confift- 
 ing of Pieces that are not one Line fquare ; and \ 
 many other Things that are either remarkable I 
 fafrThis' for their Richnefs or Rarity. The Doge’s Como 
 Corno is not i s > i n my Opinion, the fined of them all ; the 
 eftcemed Circle is of Gold, the Bonnet or Cap of Crimfon 
 worth m° re Velvet, and the whole enriched with precious 
 hundred^hou- Stones and Pearls of great Value. Charles Pafchal 
 land Crowns, pretends to prove, that this Corno is nothing 
 elfe but the Phrygian Bonnet, or ‘Trojan Mitre, 
 which Antenor brought into this Country ; the 
 Form of which may be Hill feen in divers An* 
 cient Pieces, as in the Statue of Ganymede , which 
 Youmay fee j s at t h e Entrance of the Library of St Mark •, 
 
 this Coronet in * n f° me Medals of the God Lunus ; in fome 
 the Figure of others where you fee ALneas carrying the old An- 
 the Doge. chips : And in Miniatures, of the ancient Manu- 
 fcript of Virgil in the Vatican : But thefe are chi- 
 merical Thoughts. 
 
 Mr Payne This Manufcript puts me in Mind of that 
 is oT the Skin W ^ IC ^ they call The Gofpel of St Mark , and is 
 of a Tree ; here efteemed one of the moft precious Things 
 
 but he hath 
 
 been milinformed, as well as P. Mejffie, who faid, they were Leaves. Nor 
 was Father Mabil Ion's Information better, that gave him Occalion to write, 
 that the Manufcript which bears the Name of St Mark's Gofpel is never fhewn, 
 Sigillo obfignatur, nec cuiquam aperitur. ’Tis provable, that thofe who 
 fhewed him the Treafury, told him Inch a Story, that they might fpare them- 
 felves the Trouble of opening it : Or perhaps he relied upon the Authority of 
 M. de S. Didier , who affirms the fame Thing, and feems to deferve more Cre- 
 dit than other Strangers, who have deferibed this City ; becaufe heftudied the 
 Subjcdt fo carefully. I have feen that Manufcript twice. It was brought from 
 dquileta, where it was kept by the Religious of the Order of St Bennet. 
 
 in 
 
Part I. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 245 
 
 in the Treafurv. I was fuflered to take a parti- Father Mont- 
 cular View of it, and confidered it at Leifure. ^^^much 
 confifts of old Leaves of very thin Vellum, ac- m iii a ke n about 
 cording to the belt Conjedture of our Company, this MS. in 
 loofe from each other, worn, torn, defaced, his 
 and fo rotten with Moilture, and other Injuries ac^ 
 
 of Time, to which this Book has doubtlefs been knowledged 
 expofed, that one cannot touch it without fo me part of his 
 Bits flicking to his Fingers : and it is a hard Faults, in his 
 Matter to difcern any Thing in it. This Manu- 
 fcript was in quarto , about two Inches thick - The See the laft 
 Remainders of it are Ihut up in a Box of Silver, Preface, at the 
 gilded, made in the Form of a Book. There re- of tilis 
 main ftill fome Traces of imperfedi: Charadlers, ° ume ' 
 but fo little that fcarce any Thing can be diftin- 
 gnifhed *, tho’ by turning over the Leaves, I found 
 three or four Letters well formed : I alfo met 
 with the Word KATA, written as you fee. I 
 was with the Abbot Lith , Library-keeper of 
 St Mark , and others, and we fearched, as dili- 
 gently as we could, without being able to dif- 
 cover any Thing, only that the Margin was 
 large, and the Lines at a confiderable Diftance, 
 and ruled with two little parallel Scores, to 
 make the Writing ftraight and equal. This 
 KATA, with a A and a 2, which I alfo obferved 
 in it, proves that it is a * Greek Manufcript. But * dlfijifusCi- 
 the bare Tradition is not a fufficient Demon- ^dy J affirms 
 ftration that it was writen by St Mark : The that this Ma- 
 Age we now live in, does not furnifh us with a- nufcript is La- 
 ny Original of that Time *, neither can it beprov- tin * and 
 ed that there is any Manufcript in the World, that Ruffins upon 
 comes any Thing near that Time. The Manner which Baroni- 
 of Writing, which I obferved, would rather us . grounded 
 make me inclinable to believe, that it is the h , ls ? pl ^ 10n t 
 Work of fome profeffed Tranfcriber. Befides, wrotchis Gof- 
 we muft rely on common Fame, to believe it pel in Latin. 
 to be a Gofpel rather than any Thing elfe, fince 
 R 3 one 
 
2 4^ Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 * This Hiftory one can hardly diftinguifh any Letters in it. 
 'sabellicuf Y * The Treafury was robbed in the Year 1427, 
 Gar on, Ca- by a certain Candiot named f Stamati , who made a 
 
 ruttiy and fe- Hole in the Wall *, they recovered every Thing, 
 veral others, but the Thief was fentenced to be hanged •, and, 
 t Stamatihw- they fay, he begged the Favour of the Judges, 
 that he might have a gilt Halter, which they 
 cret to one Za- had Charity to grant him. Upon the Wall, 
 chary Grio, over the firfh Door of the Treafury, are two 
 that Grio dif- Figures in Mofaick , which, they fay, reprefent 
 f^me^and^e ^ Dominick, an ^ St Francis , and were made be- 
 ceived a great f° re either of them was born, according to the 
 Reward ; but Prophecy of the Abbot || Joachim . 
 the Thief was 
 
 hanged on the two Columns or marble Pillars which are at the Entrance of the 
 Palace, over-againft the Logietta. Lewis Garon affirms, the Theft was va- 
 lued at two Millions of Gold. They fay, that the Well in the Court of this 
 Palace cannot be poifoned, becaufe two Unicorns Horns were calt into it. 
 
 || He was condemned for a Heretick, by the fourth Council of Later an, and 
 his Books were burnt by the common Hangman, in the Year 1215. 
 
 The Palace of St Mark is contiguous to the 
 Church : It is a large fine Building, though af- 
 ter the Got hick Manner. It hath been burnt four 
 or five Times *, and the various Reparations of 
 it have fpoiled the Uniformity of the Structure. 
 The Side which is on the Canal, is built of a cer- 
 tain fietra dura , brought from Iftria ; and the Ar- 
 chitetfture of that Part is highly efteemed: Were 
 the reft of the Building fuitable, it would be a 
 very fine Strudture. The Doge lodges in this Pa- 
 lace *, and here it is that all the Councils of State, 
 and the Magiftracy do meet. The Apartments 
 are large, high, and well wainfcotted ; but dark 
 in Comparifon of the Light that is now a-days 
 required in Buildings. The Hall where the Body 
 of the Nobles aflembles, which, you know, 
 compofes the Grand Council in which the Sove- 
 reignty of the State refides, is extreamly large. 
 

 Part I. to I T A L Y. Venice. 247 
 
 and adorned with fine Paintings ; among which 
 are the Pictures of the Doges ; the Hiftory of 
 , the Conqueft of Conftantinople, which was taken 
 in the Year 1192, and Jolt threefcore Years af- 
 ter. The Picture of Frederick and Alexander is 
 there alfo •, they have not forgot the Circum- 
 ftance of the Foot on the Neck. 
 
 What I obferved in this Pidture, gives me 
 an Opportunity to add fomething to what I haVe 
 already faid on the fame Subjedt. I think we 
 ought not to take in a rigorous, and ftridtly # 
 literal Senfe, what is commonly find ; that the Story ? 
 
 Pope * fet his Foot f on the Emperor's FHROAF. f en ted in the 
 This Adtion would become lefs odious, and more Church of St 
 credible, if it were related as it is reprefented J™ es * e Rl ~ 
 in this ancient Pidture. For the Pope feems on- Ij. D e p 0 ft e le 
 ly to put his Foot lightly on the Neck of the veftid’ oro. 
 Emperor, without fhewing a very great Paf- proftrato a- 
 fion. Tho* the Hiftory of the Popes mentions 2 * 3 ’ AllJ 1- 
 a great Number of them that were guilty of the fandro, chie- 
 utmoft ExcefTes of Pride, Brutiftmefs, and Fury; deva miferi- 
 and tho’ fuch a haughty Man as this Alexander cordia & il 
 was capable of the moft fpiteful Refentments, ^ 1 
 
 when he was animated with Revenge and Indig- [h iicOLLO, 
 nation, it ought to be confidered, that fo vio- difle quelle pa- 
 lent an Adtion, on fuch an Occafion, among role del Salmo; 
 Strangers, in a publick Place, and in the Sight &^amifcur^ 
 of fuch a Multitude of People, would have been ambulabis, & 
 
 conculcabis 
 
 Leonem & Draconem. A1 cui motivo 1* Imperatore rifpofe j non tibi, fed 
 Petro. Ed il Papa piu forte Calcando il piede foggiunfe, & mihi & Petro. 
 Theodor. Valle Cit. di Pip. ch. x. The fame Story is unanimoufly re- 
 lated by a thoufand other Authors, among whom I (hall only cite Alex . Ma- 
 ria Vianali, and Giovanni Francefco Lauredano two noble Venetians , with 
 I Nicolas Doglioni. The firft wrote a Hiftory of Venice , which is very much 
 efteemed, and, the fecond the Hiftory of Pope Alexander . They are both 
 pofitive on this Subject. Initead of quoting that Paflage in the Pialms, the 
 Pope might have rather alleged the Example of Jojbua x. 14 . 
 
 R 4 contrary 
 
 1 
 
p 
 
 34S Venice. A New Voyage Vol.I. 
 
 contrary to the Policy, as well as the Gravity of | 
 God’s Vicar. Whereas it was not only a noble 
 Pride, but alfo the Duty of him who reprefents 
 the Mafter of the Univerfe, and whofe Govern- t, 
 ment extends itfelf over all the Kings of the 1 
 World, on fuch an Occafion to maintain the i 
 Dignity of his Character. ’Tis true, that the ' 
 Submiftion and Repentance of the Vaffal, ought 
 to have been received with a Spirit of Meeknefs ; 
 but on the other Pland, it was not juft that he 
 fhould be acquitted for a fingle Reverence. It 
 was requifite, as I obferved before, that the Lieu- 
 tenant of Jefus Chrift, fhould maintain the Inte- 
 reft of his Mafter : And that, at leaft, he fhould 
 make the Offender feel his Power, the fame time 
 that he granted him Pardon. If it be objeded, 
 that all this is founded only on the Fancy of a 
 Painter, who reprefented the Story as he thought 
 fit : I anfwer, firft, that this is a mere precarious 
 Aftertion. Painters do not always give them- 
 felves a Latitude, nor do they ufually allow 
 themfelves a Liberty that is inconfiftent with an 
 important Circumftance. And in the fecond 
 Place, it is more reafonable to believe this Pi- 
 cture, than to form chimerical Notions on pur- 
 pofe to refute them. Some wrangling Difputer 
 will perhaps alledge, that the Neck is not the 
 Throat, but I think it not worth the while to 
 reply to fo frivolous an Objedion. I hope you 
 will pardon this frefh Digreftion, in which I 
 was the more eafily engaged, becaufe of theDift 
 courfe we had on this Subject. 
 
 I shall only add two Remarks on the Palace 
 BajamrncTie* of St Mark , which, in my Opinion, deferve to 
 pl** a n °hle p e taken Notice of. The Rebellion of Bajamonte , 
 Beginning 1 o ^ t ^ ie § tor y °f which you know, was the Occafion 
 the fourteenth of the ereding of a little Arfenal in the Palace, 
 Century, to which there is a Paftage from the Llall of the 
 
 Grand 
 
249 
 
 Parti, /a ITALY. Venice. 
 
 Grand Council, by a Gallery pf Communicati- 
 on *, that if the People fhould confpire againft 
 the Nobles, and make any Attempt againft them 
 while they are fitting, they might be furnifhed 
 with Arms upon the Spot to defend themfelves. 
 
 And ’twas alfo for the lame Reafon that they 
 built that little Tribunal called the Loggietta, 
 which is at the Foot of the Tower of St Mark , 
 in Sight of the Palace; and of the Hall of the 
 Grand Council. There are always fome of 
 the Procurators of St Mark there, upon the 
 Watch, while the Council is affembled; mak- 
 ing a Ihew of doing other Bufinefs. This Arfe- 
 nal is furnifhed with a competent Number of 
 Fufees and Mufquets, which lie always ready 
 charged *, and a great many other good Arms. 
 
 There is a Machine, a little out of Order, which 
 is to light five hundred Matches at once. Be- 
 fides thefe, they keep, in the fame Place, a con- 
 fiderable Number of curious ancient Arms, a- 
 mong which they preferve, the Sword of the 
 valiant Scanderbeg . I obferved there the Buft of 
 * Francis Carrara , the laft Lord of Padua , fo * strangled at 
 famous for his Cruelties. They fhew a little Box Padua, with 
 for a 'Toilette , in which were fix little Guns, which his four Chil- 
 were fo ordered with Springs, adjufted in fuch a dren, by Order 
 Manner, that upon the opening of the Trunk, of Fenice^ln 
 the Guns fired, and killed the f Lady, to whom theYear 1405. 
 Carrara fent it for a Prefent. They fhow alfo 
 with this, fome little Pocket Crofs-Bows, and t The Coun- 
 Arrows of Steel, with which he took Pleafure to ^^696. ** 
 kill thofe he met, fo fecretly that they could hard- There were no 
 ly either perceive the Blow, or him that gave it. more than two 
 Ibi eiiam funt Jerce , & varia repagula , quibus turpe ^ ns m 
 illud Monftrum P ellices fuas occludebat . I muft not 
 
 forget the two little Statues of Adam and Eve, which 
 Albert Purer made in Prifon, with the Point of a 
 Pen-knife, and for which he obtained his Liberty. 
 
the Billet, 
 which they 
 put into the 
 Box. 
 
 250 Venice.' A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 The other Particulars which I fhall yet ob- 
 ferve about the Palace of St Mark, are the Muz- 
 zles under the inner Portico •, in feveral Places 
 TheDifcove- of the Galleries j into the Throats of which any 
 rers are fome- Body may call a Letter or Note, to give what 
 tjm«s Reward- Advice he thinks fit to the Inquifitors of the 
 make them- State, who have the Keys of thefe Boxes •, and 
 fete known make ufe of the Notices they find, according to 
 
 by a Bit of Pa- their Judgment and Equity. This is what they 
 per torn from Denuntk Secrete _ 
 
 The Library is in the Procuraties, over-againft 
 the Palace, and on the other Side of the Broglio. 
 There are feveral Greek Manufcripts in it, which 
 were given by Cardinal Beffarw , who you know 
 was a Grecian. I could not learn that there was 
 any Thing rare in this negledted Library, ex- 
 cept another Manufcript, De confideratione Dei , 
 which they aferibe to St Augufiine . I cannot 
 
 tell what Reafons induce them to believe it, but 
 it is very certain, that the Title of this Treatife 
 is not in the Index of PoJJidius . A Friend of 
 mine, who travelled into Spain , told me, that 
 there is in the Efiurial , a Manufcript Treatife of 
 Baptifm , which alio pafifes for St Auguftine 9 s y 
 M^ciVerieui 5 an d j s different from that which we have of that 
 1468 Calvif anc * ent Dodtor againft the Donatifts *, and they 
 Some think add, that Charles the fifth refilled fifty thoufand 
 that Calvifius Piftoles for it : But I believe that poor Prince 
 miftook the wou jd have gladly taken them, when at his lat- 
 Donation, be- ter End he was forced to fell his Jewels. To re- 
 caufe it feems turn to the * Library ; if it was none of the moft 
 
 to contradict 
 
 the Date mentioned in that Prelate’s Epitaph, which is to be feen at Rome. 
 BelTario Epii'copus Tufculanus S. R. Ecclefiae Cardinalis, Patriarcha Conftan- 
 tmopolitanus, Nobili Graecia ortus, oriunduique, fibi vivens pofuit, anno fa- 
 lutis 1466. But this Epitaph does not mention the Year of his Death ; the 
 Date refers to the Words fibi vivens pofuit. Mezeray fays, that Sixtus IV. 
 fent him to Lewis XI, in 1471. He was a Native of Trebizond. 
 
 * The Library of Petrarque makes part of St Mark's , with thofe of the 
 Cardinals, Ah an are and Grimani, 
 
 Beffario Ni- 
 caenus Cardi- 
 nals, Biblio- 
 thecam fuam, 
 quam ex Grae- 
 cias reliquiis 
 Line inde con- 
 quiliverat, 
 Templo D. 
 
 numerous 
 

 Part I. /^ITALY. Venice. 
 
 numerous, nor rareft, and beft conditioned in the 
 World-, yet, to make amends, it is adorned with 
 Painting by Titian , and fome other famous Ma- 
 tters, which are much efteemed. There are 
 alfo many Greek Statues of admirable Beauty, 
 particularly, the above-mentioned Ganymede , car- 
 ried away by Jupiter , transformed into an Eagle -, 
 a Venus an Apollo -, and two Gladiators. It mutt 
 be acknowledged, that this Library is neither 
 kept in good Order, nor much frequented. 
 That of the Benedictines at St George Major is more 
 numerous and accefiible, and more carefully 
 looked after : And that of the Dominicans of SS. 
 John and Paul , deferves almolt the fame Cha- 
 ra&er. There are alfo confiderable Libraries 
 belonging to the Theatins of St Nicholas Tclentini •, 
 the Canons of St Saviour ; the bare- footed Car- 
 melites •, as well as thofe at St Stephen’s, La Sa- 
 lute, St Anthony di Caftello , and in fevcral other 
 Convents. Dominico Martellini , in a Treatife 
 lately publiflied, entituled Ritratto , &c. allures 
 us, that one may find Admittance into feveral 
 private Libraries, which are kept open on cer- 
 tain Days for that Purpofe : Such as thofe of the 
 Procurators Baptijla Cornaro Pifcopia , Antonio Na- 
 ni of * Zueca , and Philippo Bono *, of the No- 
 bles, John Cornaro of St Paul* and Marino Zani ; 
 but efpecially that which belongs to the Sarotti’s , 
 where the Curious are entertained with a great 
 deal of Civility and Liberty, on Mondays , Wed- 
 nefdays , and Fridays , &c. 
 
 They give out, that there are as many fine 
 Paintings at Venice , as ex Rome -, and we have al- 
 ready feen good Store of them : But I do not 
 pretend to undertake to give you a particular 
 Account of them. The three moft celebrated 
 Pieces of thofe that are to be feen in the 
 Churches, or other Publick Places, are the 
 
 Wedding 
 
 *5 X 
 
 The greateft 
 Part of thefe 
 Statues were 
 prefented to 
 the Library by 
 John Grimani 
 Patriarch of 
 Aquileia , and 
 Frid. Conta - 
 ritii Procura- 
 tor of St Mark. 
 They were fet 
 up in thePlace 
 where they 
 Hand at pre- 
 ient. Anno 
 1 597 - 
 
 * Or Gtudeca. 
 
252 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Wedding of Cana, by Paul Veronefe , in the Refec- 
 tory of St George Major. The Prefen tation of the 
 Virgin by Titian , in the School of Charity : And 
 This St Peter ^ Peter Martyr at SS. John and Paul , by 
 was a Domini- the fame Titian, 
 i an, and In- 
 
 quifitor -general in Lombardy. He was knocked on the Head with his Com- 
 panions by Tome Sectaries whom he profecuted. This happened near Bar- 
 iajpna y on the Road betwixt Como and Milan. 
 
 VENICE is perhaps the only City of Europe , 
 where young Painters may heft ftudy the Beau- 
 ties of Nature. There are two Academies, 
 where there are always naked Perfons of both 
 Sexes to be defigned, and which are often on 
 the Stage together, in what Pofture they pleale 
 to put them. Every Body for a fmall Matter 
 may come in there, and you cannot believe with 
 what Boldnefs thefe little Creatures will endure 
 to be gazed on by all the Spectators. 
 
 I shail anfwerin afewWords yourQueftion 
 concerning the ebbing and flowing of the Sea, 
 by confirming what you have doubt.lefs heard 
 from others. The Sea flows fix Hours, and ebbs 
 as much : It is later every Day by three Quar- 
 ters of an Hour, or thereabouts, as upon the 
 Coafts of the Ocean which you have feen *, and 
 the Tides rife ufually at Venice four Foot, or four 
 Foot and an half : Sometimes more, and fome- 
 times lefs *, and here, as well as in all other 
 Places, it agrees with the Moon, after the ufual 
 Manner : I fliall take Care to impart to you the 
 * Obfervations I fhall have Occafion to make along 
 the Gulf from Ravenna to Loretto. 
 
 The Shore is extreamly pleafant beyond thofe 
 long and narrow Ifles, which make Banks on 
 the Eaft-fide •, and form a kind of Semicircle from 
 North to South, round about Venice : This is 
 properly the Sea. There you find Shell-fifh, and 
 
 the 
 
Parti, /o ITALY. Venice. 
 
 the Walk is very diverting. They get Store of 
 Oyfters about Venice , but they differ much from 
 the Savour of ours. They are even thought to 
 be hurtful *, and Strangers, efpecially, abftain 
 from eating fo many as in other Places. 
 
 You have Reafon to fay, that Policy and Liberty 
 are two Words, which make a great Noife at 
 Venice. But it muft be acknowledged, that the 
 Venetians are not the only Perfons who magnify 
 their Policy. I think ’tis generally confefs’d, 
 that they have refin’d this Study, and have fuc- 
 ceeded : That I neither can nor will contefl. I 
 fhall only offer Two Obfervations touching that 
 Subject : The firft is, that when we fpeak in ge- 
 neral of the Policy of Venice , we run immedi- 
 ately to a particular Confideration, which fills 
 our Minds with falfe Prejudices. Before we pro- 
 ceed to take a nearer and more exadt view of 
 this boafted Policy, we judge of it by a deceit- 
 ful appearance of a falfe and ill-grounded Expe- 
 rience. The State of Venice , fay thefe Men, hath 
 maintained it felf for this Twelve or Thirteen 
 hundred Years. What a wonderful Thing is 
 this, add they, and what greater Proof can be 
 defired of the Excellency of it’s Government ? 
 But by refling here, without further Examina- 
 tion, they draw a falfe Confequence from a ve- 
 ry ill-grounded Principle. For this way of 
 Reafoning cannot be juft and folid, unlefs the 
 State of Venice had always maintain’d it felf un- 
 der the fame kind of Government. One might 
 then admire the wife and happy Condudt of it’s 
 Councils, which, by the various refults of their 
 Prudence, had thus preferved the State for fo 
 long a Succefiion of Ages. But to deal plainly, 
 this is not the cafe of Venice •, for to what pur- 
 pofe wou’d it be to diftemble, when the Thing 
 is obvious to the Sight and Knowledge of all the 
 
 World? 
 
254 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 World ? The Truth is, that the Government of 
 Venice hath often changed it’s Conftitution, with- 
 out affirming what fome maintain, that this Re 
 publick hath rendered Homage to the Kings of 
 Italy . ’Tis in vain to deny, that the Doges were 
 for a long Time abfolute Sovereigns ; whether 
 by Right or Ufurpation it matters not. The 
 State of Venice was no more a Republick, when 
 it’s ancient Dukes governed with an arbitrary 
 Power, than the State of Rome was a Common- 
 wealth under the firft Ccefars , or during the 
 Triumvirate. And therefore we mud care- 
 fully obferve the Difference between thefe two 
 Propofitions : The Republick of Venice has main- 
 tained itfelf for Twelve hundred Tears *, or, V enice 
 has been a State , or the Capital City of a State , for 
 Twelve hundred Tears. The firft of thefe Propo- 
 fitions, in a ftridt fenfe, is really falfe*, for the 
 Reafons I alledged : and the fecond is true ; but 
 nothing can be concluded from it. One might 
 as well fay, that Rome has been the Capital City 
 of a State, for above Two thoufand four hun- 
 dred Years, but could not from thence conclude, 
 that the State of Rome had maintained itfelf in 
 the fame Conftitution, during all that Time ; for 
 a Government cannot be faid to maintain itfelf, 
 when the Form of it is altered. 
 
 My fecond Remark upon this Policy, which 
 makes fo much Noife, is, that the Signiory of 
 Venice being confined within narrow Limits, in 
 Comparifon of the great States of the World •, 
 and tho main Ambition of this Republick, I 
 lpeak principally, as it (lands at prelent, being 
 only to live quietly and peaceably with all the 
 World ; I do not fee what Need it has of fuch an 
 extraordinary Nimblenefs of Wit, or fuch high 
 Efforts of an exalted Genius, to maintain itfelf 
 in quiet. When the Republick of Rome afpired 
 
 to 
 
2 5S 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Venice. 
 
 to the Empire of the Univerfe •, when it endea- 
 voured to fill the World with it’s Colonies, and 
 had already made fo many Kings it’s Tributa- 
 ries, and was to find out the Secret, to make it 
 felf both feared and loved by the Provinces it 
 had newly fubdued ; then if was that Policy was 
 . neceiTarily required. But there is no fuch Oc- 
 cafion for it at Venice . If the little Republick of 
 St Marin lhould come to boaft of it’s Policy on 
 the Broglio , do you not think that fuch a Rho- 
 domontade would make a diverting Scene? To 
 fpeak Truth without derogating from the Glory 
 and Power that Venice has feveral Times acquired ; 
 it is certain, that Venice is no more to be compa- 
 red to old Rome y than St Marin can come in 
 Competition with Venice. 
 
 I might add, for a third Remark, that the 
 wonderful Policy of Venice could not prevent the 
 many Declenfions which that Republick has fuf- 
 fered. 
 
 The Republicans talk of nothing but their Li- 
 berty *, yet thefe poor People are Slaves to their 
 Mailers, as all other poor People are, under what 
 Government foever they live : And, in the 
 
 mean Time, they Huff their Heads with I know 
 ■not what pretended Notions of Liberty, as if 
 ivery one of them were a little Sovereign. But 
 it mull be confeffed, that the Inhabitants of Ve- 
 nice have more Reafon than any other People to 
 noalt of theirs. I will tell you in two Words, 
 
 ; vhat that Liberty is : You mull never in the 
 \ eall meddle with Affairs of State : You mull 
 j:ommit no enormous Crimes punifhable by Ju- 
 stice, which by their Notoriety may oblige the 
 i jovernment to call you to an Account \ and in 
 ill other Refpedts you may do what you pleafe, 
 j vithout fo much as fearing to be cenfured, or 
 ; wen obferved. This is the Sum of the Vene- 
 tian 
 
 1 
 
2 5 6 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 turn Liberty. I could tell you many Things on 
 this Subject, that are very particular, which might 
 even feem fomewhat incredible : But fince thefe 
 Reflexions would carry me too far, I will de- 
 fer the further Confideration of them to another 
 Opportunity. 
 
 A s for the Queftion you propofe about the 
 Toleration of Religions, you muft know, that 
 the Greeks , Armenians, and Jews , are allowed the 
 publick Exercife of their Religions •, all other 
 SeXs are fuffered or connived at, but they order 
 their Meetings after fo fecret and prudent a 
 Manner, that the Senate hath no Reafon to 
 complain of the Abufes or Indifcretion of any 
 Perfons. 
 
 Notwithstanding, the worfhipping of I- 
 mages and Relicks, and many other Superftiiions 
 reign at Venice •, they prevail chiefly among the 
 common People, to whom the Government is wil- 
 f The Jefiuts jj n g to g rant thefe Amufements. Their Wits 
 
 Colfegenor a care ne i t h er for that, nor any Thing. For- 
 Novitiate at merly the Venetians were as filly as the reft of 
 
 Venice ; and the Popifh World. The Excommunications of 
 their Church ^ p 0 p e f carec i them, and fometimes did them 
 
 S^hew. a, They a great deal of Mifchief. Thofe of Clement V, 
 have feme ' for Example, made a terrible Pother among them, 
 goodPaintings: an fl fpoiled all their Trade : But now they 
 T ho fjr * n ^ trouble not themfelves about fuch things ; and 
 old Palma. In the Liberties or the Venetian Church are at pre- 
 the Chapel of fent as great as thofe of the Galhcan. They 
 the great Al- ta p- e not i C e of the Pope as a Prince ; but do 
 fin^Piece^f not muc h regard him as Pope. When the * Je- 
 the Affumpti- fuits, who are the moft potent Support of that 
 on, by Tinto- 
 
 ret : And one of the Circumcifion, by the fame Hand ; with theVifitof the 
 Virgin, by Andrew Sc biavon. The Martyrdom of Si Lawrence is a famous 
 Piece of Titian's ; and the Beheading of St John by old Palma. TbeTombs 
 of Horatio Farnefe, General of the Venetian Army, of the Doge Pafcbal Ci- 
 tenia, of the Procurator Priam Legio } and fome others are very hne. 
 
 which 
 
*57 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 which they call the Holy See, would have fub- 
 mitted to the Order of Sufpenfion, fent to the 
 Clergy of Venice from Popfe Paul the Fifth, they 
 were driven out as Enemies and Difturbers of 
 the State. And though for fome Reafons at the 
 inftant Sollicitations of the Court of Ro?ne, they 
 were afterwards recalled ; it was on Condition, 
 that they fhould not make fuch Difturbances as 
 they do in other Places. Though they had bad 
 Defigns, the Republic knows how to curb them : 
 
 But confidering the Precautions that are ufed, 
 the Toleration of the Jefuits at Venice can pro- 
 duce no ill Confequences ; For, I am informed, 
 they fuffer none to live there but fuch as are 
 born Subjects of the State ; and they afliire me 
 alfo, that the Superior muft be a Native of the 
 City. In a Word, ’tis certain that the Venetians 
 do not fuffer themfelves to be governed either by 
 the Priefts or the Monks. Men of that ProfefTion 
 may wear Mafks during the Carnaval ; keep 
 their Concubines *, fing on the Stages •, and take 
 what other Liberties they pleafe : but they muft 
 not thruft their Nofes into Affairs of State* 
 
 The Senate in Venice , as well as in Holland , is 
 wile enough to be fenfible of the Diforders 
 which happen when fuch Perfons as thefe are 
 permitted to meddle with the Government. 
 
 And I wifh to God they would do the fame in 
 all other States in the World. 
 
 I have taken particular Care to inform tfiyfelf 
 about the Sentiments of the Greeks who live here* T ^ e 
 touching the Articles of which you make mention church is de- 
 in your Letter. But to fpeak freely, though I find dicated to St 
 them to be declar’d Enemies to the Roman Reli- Thc 
 
 gion, and tho s they exclaim furioufly againft the handfome-and 
 
 they have 
 
 fome coarfe Paintings, after the Mode of their Country, on a Ground of 
 The Church has but one Nave, without Pillars; 
 
 Gold. 
 
 VOL, I, 
 
 Ufurpations 
 
Venice. A New Voyage VoL I. 
 
 Ufurpations of the Bifliop of Rome , when they 
 fpeak with Freedom : I perceive by their Diff 
 courfe, that either by Contagion, or fome other 
 Reafon, they differ in feveral Points from the 
 other Greek Churches, which are at prefent un- 
 der the Dominion of the "Turk ; efpecially if we 
 may believe the Relations of thofe Countries. 
 So that from the Opinions of thefe we ought 
 not to draw any Conclufion concerning the Be- 
 lief of the Greeks in general. To deal plainly 
 with you, they declare here, that they believe 
 Tranfubftantiation ; but this is not fufficient to 
 decide the Queftion, which has made fo much 
 Noife *, and at the Bottom, makes nothing againft 
 thofe who will not admit that Dodlrine. They 
 make Ufe of common Bread they mingle Wa- 
 ter with the Wine, and communicate under both 
 Kinds. There are two Altars in their Church, 
 one which they call the Altar of Preparation, and 
 the other of Confecration. On the firft, they cut 
 the Bread with a Knife, fafhioned like the Head 
 of a Spear. There they alfo mix Water with 
 the Wine, and the Priefl takes it with a Sponge 
 out of the Veffel in which it was firft mixed, 
 and afterwards fqueezes it out into the Cha- 
 lice. They embrace one another before they 
 receive the Sacrament : And the Communi- 
 
 cants receive the Bread dipt in the Wine, the 
 Priefl: putting it with a Spoon into their Mouths. 
 All this we law: The Archbifhop who officia- 
 ted, had a Mitre fafhioned like an imperial 
 Crown, and all his other Ornaments were mag- 
 nificent : They were changed from Time to 
 Time, according to the feveral Parts of the 
 Service. 
 
 There are among them Abundance of Ce- 
 remonies and Myfferies. When the Bifhop 
 bleffes the People, he holds in his Right-hand a 
 
 Candleftick 
 
* 59 
 
 Part I. ITALY. Venice. 
 
 Candleftick of three Branches, with the Ta- 
 pers lighted *, which is an Emblem of the Per- 
 sons of the Trinity. The Candleftick which he 
 holds in his Left-hand hath two Branches, to 
 denote the two Natures of Chrift: But I will not 
 engage further in the Intricacies of thefe my- 
 fterious Reprefentations. Their Churches are 
 divided into four Parts •, the Altars of Prepara- 
 tion and Confecration are in the Place which they 
 call Holy, at one End of the Church. There 
 are none, but he who officiates and thofe who 
 ferve him, who commonly enter there. The 
 fecond Place is appointed for the other Parts of 
 the Service : The Men are in the third Place, 
 which is feparated only from the fecond by lit- 
 tle Ballifters *, and the Women fet behind a Lat-» 
 tice, at the other End of the Church, or in the 
 Galleries. The whole Service is performed in the 
 vulgar Greek , which is their natural Language, 
 and underftood by the People. They highly 
 condemn the Ufe of unknown Languages in 
 the Church : They worfhip ftanding, bowing 
 their Heads, and laying their Hands upon their 
 Breads. Thofe who are married, may be ad- 
 vanced to Ecclefiaftical Preferments without 
 quitting their Wives : But thofe who are receiv- 
 ed before Marriage, are not afterwards differed 
 to marry. They pretend that Chriftian De- 
 cency permits not any Perfon to marry above 
 thrice •, fo that they forbid fourth Marriages. 
 They deny Purgatory, and you know upon 
 what Principles they pray for the Dead. There 
 are very few here who believe a temporary 
 Hell, from which the Eledt are delivered * but 
 they pray for the Souls which, they lay, are fe- 
 queftered, expedling the laft Judgment. The 
 Ufe of Confeffion is much pradlifed among them, 
 but not after the Roman Manner. The Article 
 
 S 2 of 
 
2 tO 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 of the Proceflion of the Holy Ghoft, they put 
 it in the Rank of thole which are more curious 
 than edifying *, infomuch that that Queftion is 
 now paffed over with as much Silence as former- 
 ly it made Noife. They keep certain Relicks as 
 precious and facred Memorials, but never wor- 
 fhip them. I remember I have read in ' Thevety 
 that the Greeks of Athens excommunicate the 
 Pope folemnly on Good-Friday. And the Monk 
 Surius reports, that at Jenifalem they pray to 
 God every Day in a certain Part of the Pub- 
 lick Service, that he would keep them flill un- 
 der the Dominion of the Fnrk, rather than luffer 
 them to fall under that of Rome . And Villamont , 
 who was as rigid a Reman Catholick as Surius , has 
 written in exprefs Terms, that they had rather 
 fell their Daughters to the Lurks for Slaves, than 
 marry them to thofe of the Romifh Religion: After 
 this, I fee no Reafon why the Gentlemen of 
 Rome fhculd reproach the Calvinifts with the 
 Averfion that fome Lutherans have for them. It 
 is commonly pra&ifed, tho 5 very unreafonably, 
 that the Proximity of Opinions between one 
 Se£t and another, among Chriftians, doth not cre- 
 ate any better Correfpondency betwixt them. 
 
 I have alio ufed my utmoft Endeavours to 
 The Armenia procure fome particular Account of the Creed 
 am at Venice an d Worfhip of the Armenians , that I might 
 of C Pedlars^ 01 "*" ^ now lt f rom the firfb Hand * but I have not 
 without either hitherto had an opportunity to be acquainted 
 Learning or with any of them, nor have I yet been prefent 
 Breeding. I at publick Worfhip *, becaufe they are at 
 
 fed^ whhTeve- Work in the Repairing of their Church, and fo 
 ral of them, cannot yet aflemble in it. One of my Friends, 
 
 and endea- 
 voured to get fome Information, by asking them Queftions ; but could ne- 
 ver obtain a reafonable Account from any of them. And even their Prieft 
 [for at that Time they had but one} was as ignorant as the reft. Yet I can 
 very web 'Uv, that thofe who have written that the Armenians of Venice pn> 
 feis the Komijb Religion are mifinformed. 
 
 among 
 
Part I. VITALY, Venice. 
 
 among other things, aflur’d me of thefe four 
 or five Articles. That they communicate under 
 both Kinds: That they give the Sacrament to 
 little Children : That they believe the Seque- 
 ftration of Souls as the Greeks do : That they 
 give a Bill of Divorce : That they believe there 
 will be no Difference of Sexes after the Refur- 
 re&ion. And after all, there are fo many par 7 
 ticular Opinions among all thefe People, that 
 ’tis not an eafy Matter to determine pofitively 
 what they believe. 
 
 There are feveral other Particulars in my Jour- 
 nal-, with which I might entertain you at prefent ; 
 but I had rather join them to thofe other Obfer- 
 vations which I fhall make hereafter ; that I may 
 have Occafion to add alfo fuch new Jnftru&ions 
 as I hope to receive. 
 
 I was juft now with the Abbot Lith , whom I 
 mention’d before ; and it comes into my Mind 
 to inform you, before I finifh my Letter, of a 
 Thing which he afliir’d me of, and I fhould 
 have been forry to have forgotten, though it 
 has no Relation to Venice, We were difcourfing 
 of the few numerous Families which are taken 
 Notice of here, in Comparifon to other Places ; 
 and he told me, on this Occafion, that one of 
 his Relations had twenty four Sons by one 
 Wife, who were all marry ’d ; and that all the 
 twenty four with their feveral Wives, had been 
 feen in a Company together : Though there is 
 nothing in this but what is very poftible, yet it is 
 extreamly rare. 
 
 I hope I fhall quickly receive a Letter from 
 you •, and you may expe<ft another from me be- 
 fore I leave this City. I am. 
 
 Venice, Jan. 20. 
 1 688. 
 
 s 3 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Tour, See. 
 
 LETTER 
 
 26 1 
 
2 . 6 % 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol.L 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 T HERE are fome Qbfervations which I can- 
 non forbear adding to what I have already ;] 
 fent you, concerning the City of Venice: For 
 
 Example, the Bridge of Rialto is fo famous a 
 This Bridge is piece, that I muft not forget to fay fomething 
 
 t houfand > Piles Venice is divided by a great Canal, of the 
 
 of Elm : And Figure of an S, and the Bridge is about the 
 it appears by Middle of this Canal. When they begin to 
 die publick p ra jf e the Structure of this Work, they break 
 it coil Two ^ f° rt h ^ nto Admirations, and can find no Terms 
 hundred and but what are too weak for exprefiing their 
 fifty thoufand Thoughts *, though all this is purely the Effedt 
 Bucati QiVe. ^ p re j u< jj ce- This Bridge hath but one Arch, 
 uce. . i • an( j a p t h e Wonder confifts in the Greatnefs of 
 this Arch, I took care to meafure it, that I might 
 give you a certain Account of it. The Com- 
 pafs of the Arch makes exadtly the third Part 
 of a Circle, and there are ninety Foot from 
 one End, or one Extremity of the Arch to the 
 other, on the level of the Canal : From which ] 
 we may gather, that the Arch is near twenty 
 four Foot high. It cannot be denied, but that 
 a great Building of any Kind foever, deferves 
 more Confederation than a final ler one ; but, ! 
 in my Opinion, it muft alfo be confefifed, that 
 when they are both of the fame Nature, and 
 when there is not a very remarkable Difference 
 in their Largenefs, there is nothing more in- 
 comprehenfible in the one, than in the other. 
 This Bridge ought not to ftand in Comparifon 
 
 with 
 
Parti. VITALY. Venice. 263 
 
 with thofe * great Works, of which the bare un- * The Bridge 
 dertaking, is in fome meafure fnrprizing : It of Civencbu 
 
 ! is an Arch of a Bridge, which is fomewhat big- 7 a P an 1S 
 ger than thofe that are ufually built •, and this andfixty ' Toi- 
 is all the Miracle. I might alfo put you in Mind f es long, and 
 of a Fault in the Stru&ure of this Bridge, againfl and a half 
 | that Maxim in Archite6lure, That to give the an^bailt of a 
 greater Strength to an Arch, it is neceftary that black Stone, 
 its Compafs make an entire Semi-circle, where- which is al- 
 
 S as this makes but a third Part of a Circle, as I as ha | 
 intimated before. But to fpeak freely, I can- Garble?* it is 3 
 not find any Solidity in the Reafoning of thofe fupported by 
 who eflablifhed this Principle. And I conceive three hun- 
 clearly, that when an Arch makes any Part of St 2 ne 
 a Circle, let the Portion be never fo little, if the Stone of IhJ 
 Semi-circle does not wholly appear, yet it mufl Arches is 
 be underflood, and really exifls in the Piles or eighteen Foot 
 other Foundations which refifl the Weight or 
 Bearing of the Arch *, and fo comes to the fame breadth ; and 
 thing. To be fully convinced of the Truth of there is a Row 
 what I fay, one need but confider, that if an of Lions of an 
 Arch, which would defcribe an entire Semi- b^gnTf^ori 17 
 circle, were walled up, and fill’d to fuch a height, each Side, 
 that only the fixth Part of its Circumference The Bridge of 
 fhould appear *, or if you will, a fixth Part of a Tinfem is not 
 Circle, this Top of the Arch would lofe nothing 
 of the Force it had before. The Bridge of the a s confiding 
 Rialto is very folidly built, with large fquare butof one only 
 Pieces of a Kind of white Marble *, there are two ^ D ^ tch 
 Rows of Shops which 'divide it into three Streets, t b e Emp^of 
 the great one in the midft, and two little ones Japan. Part IV 
 between the Rails and the Back-fides of the They boaft al- 
 Shops. Generally the other Bridges have no ^ at 
 Rails. You go up to them by Steps, which are Bridge of one 
 almoft all of a certain white Stone, f hard and fmgle Arch.^ 
 
 and thofe of 
 
 St Maurice in the Valais could do as much. 
 
 f Pietra dura : of ljlria. There comes alfo abundance of it from the 
 Iflands of Bioni } in the Gulpb, an hundred and twenty Miles from V trace. 
 
 S 4 flipper y > 
 
264 
 
 * The com- 
 mon rude Peo- 
 ple call the 
 Nobles fo. 
 The three 
 wicked K > s 
 Kanrita, kclyJ- 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol.T f 
 
 fiippery *, which partly gave Occafion to the 
 Proverb, that advifes us to beware of the four 
 P's of Venice , Pictra Bianca , Putana , Pretc^ * Pan< 
 talone * 
 
 The fined Houfes in Venice are upon the great 
 Canal ; and there are fome which appear very 
 ■f magnificent. They are great Maffes or Piles of 
 Building, which would have no outward Beauty, 
 farmed* Cap- ^ * £ w ^ re not f° r t ^ ie Mask which I mentioned in 
 padocesl ere - my Letter from Vicenza ; I mean that Frontif- 
 tenfes , Cili- piece which commonly confifts of two or three 
 cienfes. Orders of Architecture, and covers the Building 
 Pal^es^f p/- on £ ^ at Side, which * s nioft in View for the reft 
 jani, Morofini , of the out-fide is no way pleafing to the Eye. 
 Loredano , The Lagunes may caufe you to judge eafily, 
 
 Rofim, Fan-' t h e Air 0 f yenyce is not very wholfom, as a fa- 
 
 %mi™\rnaro. mous Phyfician of Ravenna has obferved, \Phomas 
 Philo\ogus\ in his Treatife D? vita Venetorum femper 
 commoda. And if ’tis the common Saying in that 
 Country, That the Air of Venice is good, ’tis only 
 in Refped of that of feveral other Places in the 
 Lagunes , where it is very bad. So are Things more 
 or lefs valued, according to the Comparifon that 
 is made of them, with better or worfe of the fame 
 Nature. The Water is almoft ajl very bad too. 
 Of a great Number of Wells which are in this 
 City, there are but very few good for any thing. 
 The beft Water is the Rain-Water, which fome 
 private Perfons prefer ve in Cifterns ; and that 
 which they fetch from the Brenta . 
 
 The common Wines are alfo very unplea- 
 fant •, that which they call dolce , fveeet , is 
 to the French Palates of a difgqftful Tafte ; and 
 the Garlpo or Brufco } fowre , on the contrary 
 is extreamly fharp. After they have drawn off 
 the pure Juice or Liquor, they mix Water with 
 the Stalks and Skins of Grapes, that they may 
 fqueeze forne Sharpnefs from them. ’Tis alfo 
 
 fometimes 
 
 See in the 
 Supplement, 
 concerning 
 the Air and 
 Water of Ve- 
 nice. 
 
66j 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 iometimes mixt with Lime , s^lum, &c. which 
 gives it fome piquant Brisknefs, but makes it 
 very harffi ; befides, this Mixture palls and 
 weakens the Wine, which was not very ftrong 
 before. They have alfo a very ill Way of ma- 
 king their Bread ; let it be as freffi as you will, 
 the Dough has been bruis’d fo much, and is fo 
 hard, that you muft break it as they do Bisket, 
 with a Hammer. In other Refpedts the Enter- 
 tainment is pretty good, in the French Inns, 
 which are the only Places where you may be to- 
 lerably accommodated in. 
 
 Strangers have fo little Commerce with 
 the Natives of this Country, that it is difficult 
 to learn their Cuftoms, and Manners of Houfe- 
 keeping : And therefore I could give you but a 
 very imperfect Account of thefe things. I read 
 the other Day in a Preface of Henry Ejlienne , that 
 in his Time, they had an ill Opinion in France , 
 of a Woman who difcovered her Neck *, where- 
 as in Italy , and particularly at Venice , every old 
 Hag expofed her wither’d and fwagging Breafts 
 to view. But things are much * changed fince * There are 
 his Time. At prefent the Women of Quality are ” 0 l ? e , b ^ t pr0 ‘ 
 ffiut up fo clofe, that you can fcarcely fee their * ns w ^ rte ~ 
 Face *, not even in the Churches, which are the fhew their 
 only Places where they ufually appear in pub- Necks bare- 
 lick. When they go abroad, they are ffiut up 
 in their Gondola's, and accompanied with two old 
 Women, who never leave them. The ordinary 
 Women cover themfelves with a great Scarf, 
 which opens only a little, before their Eyes ; 
 and they go abroad but rarely, becaufe the Men 
 fcuy Provifions, and take care of all Bufinefs 
 without Doors. 
 
 They fend the Girls to Monafteries in their 
 Infancy ; and difpofe of ’em in Marriage with- 
 out their Knowledge $ and even frequently with^ 
 
 out 
 
£66 
 
 Venice, A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 out letting them fee their future Husbands. That 
 you may not be furprized at this, you are to know, 
 that they make not commonly Marriages here, 
 under the fame Notions, and with the Tame De- 
 figns as they do in other Places. They don’t trou- 
 ble themfelves with Love, Affedion, or Efleem, 
 in this Cafe. If any of thofe Conveniences hap- 
 pen, fo much the better *, but they mind nothing 
 fave Kindred and Riches. The Ufe of Concu- 
 bines is fo generally received, that the greateft Parc 
 of the Wives live in good Correfpondence with 
 their Rivals ; and ’tis that makes amends for th£ 
 perfonal Defeds of the married Women. There 
 is alfo another Way of Concubinage, very much 
 ufed by thofe who are fubjed to fome Scruples 
 of Conlcience ; which is indeed a great Rarity 
 at Venice , on that Subjed. It is a Kind of clan- 
 deftine Marriage, the Ceremony of which is not 
 performed but a long Time after the Confum- 
 mation *, and commonly not till a few Days, or 
 Hours perhaps, before the Death of one of the 
 Parties. The Men find this Method convenient, 
 becaufe it keeps the Women in perpetual Awe, 
 and conftant Complaifance, being in daily Fear 
 of being turned off. I know a rich Merchant 
 who had lived thus for above twenty Years 
 with his Female Companion. When he is in a 
 good Humour, he promifes to marry her before 
 he dies, and make their Children his Heirs. But 
 the mod: ufual Pradice is, to live on the Com- 
 mon, at fo long kept, fo much paid, until the 
 firft Defire of Change, without fixing on any 
 certain Perfon either for Wife or Concubine; 
 Thofe who are not rich enough to keep a Mils 
 for their own Ufe, join with two or three 
 Friends ; and this Plurality, which would in 
 other Places be infupportable, does in this Place 
 ferve only to tie the Knot of Friendfhip firmer 
 
 between 
 
267 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 between Companions in the fame Fortune. Li* 
 bertinifm, concerning the Women, is turned fo 
 common and general a Cuftom, that, to fpeak 
 truly, it takes away all Senfe and Remembrance 
 of Sin. As ’tis one of the Maxims of thofe 
 Politicks, to bring up all Perfons in Effeminacy, 
 and efpecially the young Nobility: The Mo- 
 thers are the firfl: who find out Courtezans for 
 their Sons, that they may keep ’em from falling 
 into contagious Pits ; and when they have made 
 a Bargain with the Father and Mother for fome 
 young Maiden; all the Relations of this poor 
 Girl come in cold Blood, to wifhher Joy; as if it 
 were for a Marriage lawfully contracted. It is 
 fomething peculiar enough to fee a Mother deliver 
 up her Daughter for a certain Sum of Money, 
 to be paid by the Month or Year ; and fwear 
 folemnly by God, and upon her Salvation, that 
 fhe cannot afford her for lefs. We mutt not fay, 
 that all Mothers would do the fame ; but ’tis cer- 
 tainly a Thing commonly praCtifed. I was in- 
 formed by a good Catholick, that the Confeffors 
 are not willing to be troubled with fuch Pecca- 
 dillo's ; they will not hear fuch Trifles, but ask 
 prefently, qualch 9 altra cofa: True or not, ’tis 
 
 become a Proverb at Venice. There are none 
 but fome foolifh foreign Courtezans, who by a 
 kind of nice Scruple, which they brought from 
 their own Countries, will have fome Mafs faid 
 upon their Account. It is true, this cofts them 
 but little, becaufe thofe whom they employ have 
 alfo need of their Affiftance ; fo that they are 
 kind to each other ; and it is not difficult fo to 
 order Affairs, that they may have no Occafion to 
 be out of Pocket. There are whole Streets of 
 that Sort of Ladies of Pleafure, who receive all 
 Comers ; and whereas the Habits of other Per- 
 fons are black and melancholy, thefe are drefl: 
 

 68 Venice- A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 in red and yellow, like Tulips ; with their 
 Breads open, their Faces painted a Foot deep, 
 and always a Nofegay on the Ear : You may 
 fee them Handing by Dozens at the Doors or 
 Windows ; and the Pafiers by feldom efcape 
 them without torn Sleeves. 
 
 The Car naval begins always the fecond Holi- 
 day after Cbriftmas *, that is, from that Time 
 People are permitted to wear Masks, and to open 
 the Play-Houfes, and theGaming-Houfes. Then 
 they are not fatisfied with the ordinary Liberti- 
 nifm *, they improve and refine all their Pleafures, 
 and plunge into them up to the Neck. The 
 whole City is difguifed. Vice and Virtue are 
 never fo well counterfeited, and both the Names 
 and Ufe of them is abfolutely changed. The 
 Place of St Mark is filled with a thoufand Sorts 
 of Jack-Puddings. Strangers and Courtezans 
 come in Shoals from all Parts of Europe: There 
 is every where a general Motion and Confufion, 
 as if the World were turned Fools all in an In- 
 ftant. It is true, that the Fury of thefe Baccha- 
 nals does not rife fuddenly to the Height ; there 
 is fome Moderation in the Beginning ; but when 
 they begin to be fenfible of the dreaded Approach 
 of the fatal JVednefday, which impofes an univer- 
 fal Silence, then they celebrate their great Feads, 
 and all without Referve. Since it is true, that 
 every thing mud: be afcribed to their Policy in 
 Venice , you mull fuppofe there are particular 
 Reafons for the permitting of this Licentioufi 
 nefs during the Carnaval but perhaps too we 
 need not look for any Myftery. Two Things 
 come into my Mind on this Occafion. The 
 common People always love Sports and other 
 Divertilements. As abominable as that Monder 
 Nero was, he was lamented by the Rabble be- 
 caufe of his Shows* Pm apt to think then, that 
 
 the 
 
26g 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 the Nobility, who otherwife are not much be- 
 loved, are glad to find fome cunning Ways to 
 pleafe and amufe the People. At the lad Car- 
 naval, there were feven fovereign Princes, and 
 many thoufands of other Foreigners : How much 
 Money mud all this Multitude bring to Venice ? 
 ’Tis the other Thing that feems to me of fome 
 Moment. 
 
 I must, according to your Defire, give you 
 my Sentiment of the Operas and Comedies that 
 are adted here *, tho* in the mean time, I mud 
 confefs I cannot without Reludtancy enter upon 
 this Subject *, becaufe 1 fear 1 fhall in your Opi- 
 nion be edeemed too fingular in mine. You 
 feem to me to be extreamly prepoffeffed in Fa- 
 vour of thefe famous Shows ; and I perceive 
 you expedt fomething that may exceed the Idea 
 of them, which you have already. I entreat 
 you then, to fetafide all your Prejudices, and to 
 believe I will do the fame, that I may be able to 
 give you an impartial Account of Things as I 
 find them. I will do it in few Words, with- 
 out criticifing on Opera’s in general ; in which 
 I have always been offended at fome Paffages 
 which feem contrary both to Probability and 
 Reafon. But fince you will have it fo. Jet us 
 fuppofe that the Reprefentation of an Opera, is 
 the bed contrived Thing in the World ; and I 
 will keep myfelf within the Bounds you have 
 prefcribed me, which is to fpeak to you with Re- 
 lation to the Operas you have feen at Paris. It 
 is undeniable Matter of Fadl, that the Ornaments 
 and Decorations of thefe, here, fall extreamly 
 fhort of the others. The Habits are poor, there 
 are no Dances, and commonly no fine Machines, 
 nor any fine Illuminations •, only fome Candles 
 here and there, which dcferve not to be mentioned. 
 Whoever fays the contrary, mud be either a Fool 
 or blind. *Tis 
 
27® 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 *Tis dangerous not to magnify the Italian Mu~ 
 fick, or at lead to fay any Thing againft it. Nor 
 will I infift on this Subjed, but confefs, in the 
 general, that they have moft excellent Ayres, 
 and there are good Voices among them. The 
 Vicentine Singer of the Hofpitalettes is, for Exam- 
 ple, a little enchanting Creature. But I cannot 
 forbear telling you, that I find a certain Confu- 
 fion and Unpleafantnefs in feveral Parts of their 
 Singing in thole Operas : They dwell many 
 
 Times longer on one Quavering, than in finging 
 four whole Lines ; and oftentimes they run fo 
 faft, that ’tis hard to tell whether they fmg or 
 fpeak ; or whether they do neither of the two, 
 or both together. Every one has his own Hu- 
 mour *, and for my Part, I muft confefs, their 
 exceffive quavering agrees not with me, tho* 
 it requires a great deal of Pradice and Trouble 
 to attain to it *, and tho* ’tis extreamly grateful 
 to the Ears of thofe People. The Symphony is 
 much fmaller than at Paris but perhaps, it is 
 never the worfe for that. There is alfo one 
 Thing which charms them, which I believe 
 would not pleafe you ; I mean thofe unhappy 
 Men who bafely fuffer themfelves to be maimed, 
 that they may have the finer Voices. The filly 
 Figure! which, in my Opinion, fuch a muti- 
 lated Fellow makes, who fometimes ads the 
 Bully, and fometimes the paffionate Lover, with 
 his effeminate Voice, and withered Chin ; how 
 is fuch a Thing to be endured ? It is impoffible, 
 that fuch Perfons can have that Vigour and Fire, 
 which is neceffary for the Beauty of Adion ; and 
 indeed, there is nothing more cold and languid 
 than the Manner after which they ad their 
 Parts. 
 
 There are at prefent feven feveral Operas at 
 Venice , which Strangers, as we are, are in a 
 
 Manner 
 
Parti. to I T A L Y. Venice. 271 
 
 Manner obliged to frequent ; knowing not, 
 fometimes, how to fpend an Evening any where 
 elfe. But fince you would have me fpeak inge- 
 nuoufly, I mud tell you, that I impatiently ex- 
 pected the End of the Piece, before we had heard 
 a Quarter of it. You muft know there is a Buf- 
 foon in every Opera ; and you may imagine what 
 a Figure this ACtor makes with his Fooleries in 
 a molt ferious, and even fometimes moil tragi- 
 cal Part of the Play. 
 
 I will lay little of their Comedies; all the 
 World knows they are but * ridiculous and * Formerly 
 wretched Buffooneries, jumbled together without they compofed 
 any Order or Coherency. Neverthelefs, let rc | u ^ r ^ eces » 
 them be never fo filly, there is always fome Gri- 
 mace, with fome Pofture or Trick of Harlequin, ma de ufeof. 
 that makes the Spectators laugh. The molt lu- Comedies are 
 fcious bawdy Thing is pronounced there in the °. ni J a ^ ecl du ~ 
 moft expreffive Terms, and the DamfeJs of thofe ^Tval! At the 
 Societies never mince the Matter. Some Time Doors of the 
 after they have begun either an Opera or Co- Theatres there 
 medy, they commonly open the Doors for fome ^ e al ^avos 
 Gondoliers or Watermen, efpecially thofe that w \ l0 are rea jy 
 belong to the Nobles ; who make a confiderable to execute the 
 Body at Venice , and are very neceffary Perfons. Orders of the 
 Their Office on this Occafion is to applaud the ^om^the t0 
 ACtors by clapping their Hands, and fhouting Theatres be- 
 like Madmen. I can’t either exprels, or make long, 
 you conceive what Terms they ufe, when they 
 congratulate the Women ; who receive alfo other 
 Applaufes, by Sonnets made for them, and 
 printed, which fometimes fly about the whole 
 Theatre. Before I finiffi this Article, I muft tell 
 you, that thefe Theatres belong to fome Noble- 
 men, who get conflderably by them, tho’ they 
 continue no longer than the Carnaval lafts. 
 
 The Places which they call Ridotti, are pro- 
 perly Academies of BaJJet ; They are opened at 
 
 the 
 
272 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 the fame Time with the Theatres ; and there are 
 none but Noblemen who keep the Bank. They 
 difmifs the Gamefters when they pleafe; and 
 they have fo much good Fortune joined to their 
 Privileges and Skill, that the Bank is always the 
 There are a- Winner. There are ten or twelve Chambers 
 boutfixty Ga- on a floor, with garping Tables in all of them, 
 inafl. a ^ You can fcarcely tufn yourfelf in them ; but 
 tho’ the Throng is fo great, yet there is always 
 a profound Silence. None are permitted to en- 
 ter into thefe Places without Maflcs : At leaft a 
 Poftiche Nofe, oraMultachio. The Courtefans 
 come thither in Shoals ; and other Ladies alfo, 
 who under the Shelter of their Malks may enjoy 
 all the publick Pleafures of the Carnaval ; but 
 they are Hill followed by Spies, or by their Hus^ 
 bands. Befides the Chambers for Gaming, there 
 are fome Rooms for Converfation, where they al- 
 fo fell Liquors, Sweet-meats, and fuch likeThings. 
 Nobody puts off his Mafk, or Nofe *, and by the 
 Privilege of this Difguife, provided a Man be 
 pretty well drefled, he may fpeak to the Ladies, 
 and even to thofe whom he may fuppofe to be 
 of the highelt Quality *, but mull carefully avoid 
 either the faying or doing of any Thing that 
 may give Offence, for the Mafk is facred ; and 
 one will feem to take no Notice of what is faid 
 to his Wife, that has many Bravos at his Devo- 
 tion at the Doors : You know by that Name 
 they call their He 6 tors and profelfed Murderers. 
 ^ . * Not that it is abfolutely impoffible to a£l a 
 
 di Dodne^ba- ftccefsful Piece of Gallantry with the bell guard- 
 fta in Venetia ed Lady of them all, when they are not over fe- 
 haver maniera vere# As the Difficulty augments Defire, fo this 
 
 ardva anche al Defire invents the Means *, and thofe who under- 
 cibo di qual- Hand the Practice of this Country, will do more 
 che Nobile with an ogling Giance, than in other Coun- 
 Boccone. tries bv the longell Affiduities : But all thefe 
 
 Things 
 
2 7 3 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 Things arc out of my Sphere •, and therefore I 
 imift beg Leave to go no farther. 
 
 The greateft Mafquerading is in the Place 
 of St Mark ; where the Croud is fometimes fo 
 great, that one cannot turn himfelfi You may 
 piit yourfelf in what Equipage you pleafe ; but 
 to do it well, you muft be able to maintain the 
 Character of the Perfon whofe Drefs you have 
 taken. Thus, for Example, when the Harlequins 
 meet* they jeer one another, and aCt a thoufand 
 Fooleries. The DoCtors dilpitte ; the Bullies va- 
 pour and fwagger ; and fo of the reft. Thofe 
 who are not willing to be ACtors on this great 
 Theatre, take the Habit of Noblemen ; fome Po- 
 lonian Drefs, or the like, which does not oblige 
 them to any thing. The Mafkers are not permitted 
 to wear Swords. The Women are alfo habited as 
 they pleafe, and fome of them appear in moft 
 magnificent Dreffes. At the fame Time the Place 
 is filled with Puppet-fhows, Rope-dancers, and 
 all fuch Sorts of People as you fee in London at 
 Bartholomew- Fair. But thole, which in my Opi- 
 nion are the pleafanteft of* all, are a Kind of 
 Almanack- makers and Fortune-tellers, who have 
 their little Stages environed with Spheres, Globes, 
 aftronomical Figures, Characters, and conju- 
 ring Books of all Sorts. Thefe Pronouncers of 
 Oracles have a Jong tin Pipe, thro* which they 
 fpeak in the Ear of the Curious, who ftand be- 
 low the Scaffold. They fay more or lefs, ac- 
 cording to the various Characters of the Con- 
 lulters, and without feeming to take any Notice, 
 obferve their Countenance. When they perceive 
 they fmile, or by fome other Gefture denote 
 their Approbation, they give over fpeaking a 
 * while, and ring a little Bell with wonderful Gra- 
 vity *, to intimate, that by Virtue of their Art, 
 they have dived into a very fecret Affair, and 
 
 Vol. I. T fucceeded 
 
274 
 
 Confult S. Vi- 
 diers Book. 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 fucceeded very happily in their Divining. When 
 they fwear only per Dio , it figmfies nothing *, that 
 is only a common Phrafe, which no body re- 
 gards. But when they would be believed, they 
 call to witnefs the Saint of Padua , or the moft 
 blefifed Lady of Loretto *, and then all the Specta- 
 tors put on a ferious Face, and pull off' their Hats 
 as devoutly as if they were Tinging a Pfalm at 
 the Gallows. It is pleafant to fee Priefts and 
 Monks of all Orders, fo bufy about that Pipe, 
 that one would think they fanfy no body has 
 Bufinefs to enquire after but themfelves. 
 
 I will fay nothing of the Bull-baitings, 
 Goofe-catchings, Combats at Coups depoing, Balls, 
 Races in Gondolas, or of their Feafting on 
 Shrove-Phurfday ^ on which Day they cut off a 
 Bull’s Head, before the whole Senate, in Me- 
 mory of a Vi&ory obtained in the FriuL Thefe 
 Stories are too long to be related ; and may be 
 found in leveral Books. 
 
 The Carnarval is not the only Time in which 
 they wear Mafks at Venice . They ufe them in all 
 Feafe of Pleafure : With the Mafks they run to 
 the Audiences of Embafiadors : And on Afcen- 
 fion-Day all are mafked from the Noblemen in 
 the Eucentauro , to the Mob in the Streets. All 
 thefe are admirable Times for the Gondoliers \ 
 not only becaufe of the Profits it brings them by 
 their Gondolas ', , but becaufe it is a Time of In- 
 trigues *, and a Gondolier will undertake any thing. 
 They are acquainted with all the Turns and 
 Windings *, they pretend to know the critical 
 Minutes, and the private Stairs, and to hold 
 Correfpondence with the Waiting - Women. 
 They furnifh Ladders of Cords on Occafion ; 
 they promife in your Ear, to bring you to Places 
 etleemed otherwife inaccefiible : In a Word, 
 
 they are for all Ufes, and in Cafe of Neceffity 
 
 would 
 
Part I. ITALY. Venice. 275 
 
 would perform the Trade of Bravos. Their 
 great Bufmefs is Pimping : They offer, without 
 afking, to depofite a Sum of Money, and lofe it, 
 if their Wares prove unfound. 
 
 You may have Gondolas , either for fo much 
 to fuch a Place, or at fo much an Hour, as you 
 hire Coaches in London or Paris. But it is more 
 convenient to keep one for your own Ufe, and 
 this cods but little : For you may have one of the 
 bed for the Value of five or fix Shillings a Day. 
 
 The Gondolas of Venice are very pretty Things •, They are from 
 they are light, and of a pleafant Structure -, you ^^Foot ^ 
 are very conveniently feated in them, under co- long, and 
 ver, as in a Coach, with Glaffes on every Side, broad from 
 The Left is the Place of Honour •, and the Rea- four t0 five * 
 fon which they give, is •, becaufe he who fits on 
 the Right-hand, cannot fee the Gondolier before, 
 and confequently cannot fo eafily command him. 
 
 Thefe Men are excellent Maders of their Trade : 
 they turn, dop, and avoid one another, with a 
 furprizing Nimblenefs and Dexterity: They 
 
 dand and manage the Oar in fuch a Manner, that 
 their Faces are turned towards the Place to which 
 they go •, whereas the Wherry-men on the 'Thames , 
 and almod every where elfe, fit and advance, by 
 going backwards. All the Gondolas are painted 
 black, in Purfuance of an Aft of the State ; and 
 the little Cabbin is alfo cover’d with black Cloath 
 or Serge. But Strangers may have them of other 
 Colours, if they will be at the Charge, which 
 feldom happens ; few daying at Venice longer 
 than the Time of the Carnaval. Lent is no fooner 
 come, but all that Multitude begins to didodge : 
 
 Travellers, Puppet-Players, Bears, Monders, 
 and Courtezans •, by Courtezans, I mean thofe 
 whom Devotion brings from the neighbouring 
 Kingdoms ; for they take care, at Venice , that none 
 of their own Country prove Defer ters. Before I 
 
 T 2 leave- 
 
276 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 leave the Gondolas , I muft tell you, that thofe 
 which belong to Embaffadors are extreamly 
 fine ; they are larger than the ordinary ones, and 
 their Ornaments are as fumptuous as thofe of 
 the moft magnificent Coaches. Thefe Mi- 
 nifters have commonly four or five ; and ’tis 
 in thefe Gondolas they make their publick En- 
 tries. 
 
 The Arfenal of Venice paffes for one of the 
 greateft and moft beautiful in Europe ; and all 
 the World agrees, that it is a moft important 
 Piece. But it is to be confidered, that it is 
 the only one which the Venetians have in Ita- 
 ly ; and confequently that all their Magazine 
 Theyfhewa is lodg’d there. And befides, half the Stories 
 PiCCe ? n " ^ iat are t0 ^ lt are not true * Thofe who fkew 
 \vas made 11 10 Strangers would make them believe, that 
 while a Doge there are no lefs than two thoufand five hundred 
 was at Dinner: Pieces of Cannon ; and good Arms for an hun- 
 dred thoufand Foot; and compleat Equipa- 
 the Third was § es f° r twenty five thoufand Horfe : Thefe 
 treated in the are Words foon fpoken, but not fo eafily made 
 23d; and du- good. You muft further obferve, that the 
 T § , th ^T, ime ^ nc i°^" ure °f this Arfenal comprehends alfo the 
 on! they°built Magazines for the Veffels, Melting-Houfes, 
 one whole Rope- Yards, Forges, Lodges for the Galle- 
 Galiey, and afies, Gallies, and the Bucentaure : Befides the 
 caft three Can- Havens, and Docks for building and refit- 
 non. ayen. t j n g y e ff e i Si This is what occafions the 
 extraordinary Largenefs of the Arfenal. They 
 have fome Men of War, of which the grea- 
 teft called the Redeemer , hath, as they tell us, 
 fourfcore Pieces of Cannon mounted, and fourteen 
 Patterero’s ; ’tis, at prefent, at Sea. The Galle- 
 affes have three Batteries in the Prow, and two 
 in the Poop : the Crew ought to confift of one 
 hundred and ninety two Galley-Slaves, at fix on a 
 
 Bench. 
 
Hucentaure 
 

 . 
 
 . t. 
 
 
 
 
 
Part I. ^ITALY. Venice. 277 
 
 Bench. The * Bucentaure is a fingular kind of a * Navilio che 
 vaft Galleafie, very much adorned with Sculptures ^strcT * 
 and Gilding. The Doge, accompanied with the ment i c ^ c r j_ 
 Senate, and a great Number of the Nobility, eve- fuonano dea- 
 ry Year, on Afcenfion-day , goes on Board this tro > . lia , con ' 
 Veflel with great Pomp f to marry the Sea. The ^^Tdf Bu- 
 Ship which they made ufe of when Alexander III centauro. Al. 
 inftituted this Ceremony, in Confirmation to the Mar. Vianoli . 
 Venetians of that || Empire, which, they fa id, Son \ e %> that 
 they were already polfeffed of over the Gulf, thefeVdfels 
 was called the Bucentaure ; and fince that Time, had the Figure 
 they have ftill kept this Name, and appropriated of a Centaur 
 it to all the Veflels deftined to that Ceremony, 
 
 The Captain of the Bucentaure makes the pre- that were built 
 fumptuous Oath, the Day when he is received, afterwards 
 that he engages his Life, that he will bring her retained the 
 back fafe and found, in fpite of all Wind and &V le N j? e * 
 Tempefts whatfoever. thatdie Parti- 
 
 cle Bu figni- 
 
 hed Great , in the Dialett then in ufe at Venice. 
 
 f As if they became the Husbands of ‘Thetis , or the Wives of Neptune • 
 they wed the Sea every Year. Lewis Helian. Henry III, went from Venice , 
 to Murano, in the Bucentaure. Mezeray. 
 
 || There is a Treatife concerning the Dominion of the State or Republick 
 of Venice, in the Gulf, written by Cyril Michelli. 
 
 A considerable Part of the Arfenal was It was burnt 
 confumed by Fire, in the Year 1565; and ’tis before in 
 faid, that the Cracks of the Burning were heard I ^° 7 ‘ 
 at forty Miles Diftance. There are three Nobles 
 who have the Management of it ; and the Galle- 
 affes are alfo commanded by Nobles: All confide- 
 rable Employments paffing through their Hands. 
 
 I acknowledge, it is not an eafy Matter to 
 return particular Anfwers to the feveral Queftions 
 you propofe, concerning their Dignity, and the 
 great Figure their Name makes in the World. 
 
 You know, that at Venice , as well as elfewhe're, 
 that which they call Nobility, according to the 
 T 3 common 
 
278 
 
 M 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol, L 
 
 common Acceptation of the 'Word, confifts only 
 in Fancy and Opinion, as almoil all the other 
 Things in the World do. v Fis true, that the 
 * So are the Noble Venetians are born with a certain * Chara- 
 Nobies, or fter G f Sovereignty *, becaufe they compole the 
 ^^Giand Council, that which forms and animates 
 whofe Tides all the other Councils *, which deferves fome Con- 
 conferonthem fideration. But after all, this Reafon is not Sa- 
 not only the ^ tisfadtory *, for the Nobles of Genoua may boaft 
 RankandHo- °f t ^ e *' ame -Privilege. Things are ufually e- 
 nour, but fteemed according to the Value which is put 
 make them upon them : And the Noble Venetians are diftin- 
 High Magi- g U iihed, becaufe they knew how to diftinguifh 
 "Members of themfelves. They have found it to be their 
 theFirtl Court Intereft, to carry on the Value and Honour of 
 of juftice in their Nobility, beyond all Eftimation. They 
 the Kingdom. j iave f ome tj nies parallelled it with Princes of 
 Royal Blood. They pretend, that their Dignity 
 fwallows up all the Titles that are affumed by 
 Henry III of others : And even fome crowned Heads have en- 
 rC ^ n °t ) kd it, by condefcending to enter into that 
 ty of a Noble" P oc ty«> an d marrying Women belonging to fome 
 Venetian. of their Families. Thefe are the Methods by 
 Alexander which they raifed themfelves to fuch a Degree 
 ce^eMheTi ^ onour * Moreover, tho’ there is but one 
 tlTof Burgefs Order of Nobles at Venice , yet they bear not 
 of Corinth. all equally the Grande Jupereilium, which Juve- 
 nal fpeaks of; the Commands, the Ofhces, great 
 Wealth, and ancient Extra dtion, make new Dir 
 ftindtions among them. And though, as I told 
 you, they value their Nobility at an infinite Rate, 
 you mufc not from thence conclude, that this 
 Title may not be communicated, for a certain 
 Sum of Money. After all, they muft ftill 
 remember, their High Pretenfions are of little 
 Service to them when they travel into Foreign 
 Countries, which is very uncommon. Every little 
 Prince may affume to himfelf the Title ol King 
 
 in 
 
Parti. VITALY. Venice. * 279 
 
 in his own Court, and tickle his Ears with hear- 
 ing it repeated by his Servants and Vaflals ; but 
 the main Bufinefs is, to make himfelf to be own’d 
 as fuch alfo by other Princes. The Truth is, 
 that in foreign Courts they do not much concern 
 themfelves about the Knowledge of the Ideas of 
 the Broglio upon that Matter ; however they do 
 not refufe to allow thofe Gentlemen abundance 
 of Deference and Refpedl ; as I have juft now 
 obferved. 
 
 The Nobles never appear publickly at Venice 
 but in their Robes of Paduan black Cloth ; * for- * Bedele Ono- 
 merly blue, fays Mr Didier. A certain Perfon fri, in his 
 has written, that thefe Robes ought to be lined Ckronologia 
 with Pettygris in Winter, and with Ermins in That^thefe > 
 Summer: But whether ’tis a Miftake, or the R 0 b es were 
 Cuftom is changed; they are allowed to put formerly of all 
 what Lining they pleafe, provided the Robe be ^ orts Co ' 
 of Cloth made of Paduan Wool, aslhavefaid; ours> ^* 2 ‘ 
 according to Mr S. Didier , and other well-inform- 
 ed Perfons. However ’tis true, that according to 
 the Cuftom, the Doubling or Turning-up of the 
 Lining in the Winter, is of one of the two faid 
 Furrs. The Doge’s Counfellors ; the Procura- 
 tors of St Mark ; the Chiefs of the Council of 
 Ten ; the Savii Grandi ; and the Sav'd of °Cerra 
 firma , have not their Robes made after the fame 
 Manner as that of the reft of the Nobility ; and it 
 may be of Camblet, in the Summer. The Stola 
 which formerly was faftened al Capuccio or Baretta , 
 according to Oncfri , ought to be of the fame 
 Cloth of the Robe. The Girdle is black alfo, about 
 four Fingers broad, and garniflied with Plates and 
 Buckles of Silver ; and their ft Bonnet is only a f Baretta. 
 kind of Cap of black Wool Worfted, with a little When it rains 
 Fringe of the fame : But they wear long Pe- j*^ heir 
 rukes, and commonly carry their Caps in their t h e ir Head, 
 Hands. The Procurators of St Mark y the Sav'd and the Stole 
 T 4 grandi , over a11 * 
 
280 Venice. A New Voyage Vol.I. 
 
 grandly and the reft, who are Pofleftors of the 
 * The Doge’s higheft Offices, * are all diftinguifhed by peculiar 
 Counfellors Habits. || Thofe among the Nobles, who have 
 Robe, 3 while been Embaffadors, may wear a Stole of Cloath 
 they are in of Gold, and put Buckles of Gold to their Gir- 
 The dies: But ufually they only adorn their blade 
 
 QuaralnT Stoles with a little Gold Galloon. The Phyft- 
 Cr mine lie cians. Advocates, Notaries, and all thofe who 
 
 ufe one of a are called Cittaainty are habited like the Nobles* 
 V^C°1 T , without any Diftindtion. It would not always 
 Falhion^The b e conven i ent for thefe to be known by their pro- 
 Snvii Grandi pet Habits ; for fuch a Diftindtion might expofe 
 wear a Violet them to very great Dangers, fhould any Diforder 
 ofanother^ 0 ^ b a PP en# They affume the Title of Excellency , 
 Falhion. and the moft fubmiflive way of faluting them 
 is to kifs their Sleeve: The Elbow of this Sleeve 
 
 is like a great Bag, and into that, thofe who go 
 to Market put their Provifions. They are not 
 LlTdlcnHits f°d°wed by an Y Servants, and no Perfon falutes 
 of the Golden them, but he who knows them*, except thofe 
 Stele When who wear the fame Robe. The People fear 
 they go Em- them, and love them but little; but I will not 
 the Courtsof *~ a y t b at this proceeds from any ill Treatment 
 great Princes, they receive from them. Since Friendfhip is 
 the Prince to ufually the Effedt of Familiarity or Converfa- 
 whom they tion, I rather fuppofe, that the Reafon is, becaufe 
 Compliance tf ie Nobles are familiar with no body. They 
 with an anci- dare not make themfelves popular, left they 
 ent Cuftom, fhould be aqcufed of caballing againft the State. 
 Tkle orOua ^ ame Eeafon hinders them from vifiting one 
 
 lity of Knight- another ; and renders them almoft inacceftible to 
 hood upon Foreigners. It muft be acknowledged, that this 
 them, and at 
 
 the fame Time prefents them with the Sword, with which the Ceremony was 
 performed j fo that thefe Knights of the Golden Stole are not properly Venetian 
 Knights, but Engli/h, French , or Spanijh Knights, &c. The Noble - 
 Soranzo , one of the Embaifadors Extraordinary, fent to the King of England , 
 Anno *i 696, was Knighted by his Majefty. Venter , the other Embaifador, 
 had received the fame Honour before, in another Embafly. 
 
 favage 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 lavage and four Policy is very troublefome. It 
 is hard, that a Government cannot be happy 
 without deftroying the Bands and Communica- 
 tions of Society •, which are the chief Pleafures 
 of this Life ! I mult further tell you, on this 
 Subject, that the Nobility is not entail’d upon 
 the eldeft Sons only, as in England ; and that they 
 are neither permitted to trade at all, nor to mar- 
 ry with Foreigners. 
 
 I find you are puzzled about the Titles of 
 Marquelfer and Counts, which you hear men- 
 tioned in the Countries depending on Venice. To 
 unriddle the Myftery, you mult know, that the 
 Noble Venetians pretend to be equal to Princes, 
 but never qualify themfelves by any particular 
 Title : And that the Marquefles and Counts 
 
 you fpeak of, are no Nobles of Venice. Thele 
 Gentlemen are of three Sorts : Some of them 
 
 really enjoyed thefe Dignities, before they be- 
 came Subjects to this State, when they belonged 
 to the Empire , or Spain, in Friuli , in the Berga - 
 rnafco and elfewhere ; but have loft the Privileges 
 of their Titles, and keep only the Name. The 
 Venetians have always made it their Bufinefs to 
 humble them, and to deprive ’em of every thing 
 that might either tempt or enable ’em to fhake 
 off the Yoke, or return under the Dominion of 
 their ancient Mafters ; and one of the Ways 
 which they have taken for this Purpofe, was to 
 create new Counts, who might make Head a- 
 gainft the others, and fcfc take away the Diftin- 
 ftion by a Confufion of vain Titles, which have 
 the fame Sound. The other Advantages which 
 Venice draws from this Invention, would engage 
 me in too long a Digreflion ; I only mentioned 
 it, that you might underftand what are the Mar- 
 quefles and Counts of the fir ft and fecond Or- 
 der. Thofe of the third are founded on fome 
 
 Preten- 
 
282 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Pretenfions of their Anceftors. If they were 
 not altogether Counts, in the Time of the an- 
 cient Government, they had at leaft a great De- 
 fire to be fo : And when the Face of Affairs 
 was changed, they made themfelves Counts, I 
 know not how *, without any Endeavours ufed to 
 hinder them, becaufe they got no real Advan- 
 tage by it. 
 
 I find that you are mifmformed in fome Par- 
 ticulars relating to the Doge. You muft con- 
 ceive that the Doge, confidered as Doge, is but a 
 mere Figure of a Prince, an animated Statue, and 
 a Chimera of Grandeur. He puts me in mind 
 of thofe two Perfons, who at the Coronation of 
 your Kings, bear the Names of the Dukes of Aqui- 
 tain and Normandy. It is fo far out of the Doge’s 
 Power to pardon any Criminal, as you have j' 
 been informed, that you may afliire your felf 
 his new Quality diminifheth his Credit very 
 much, if it doth not abfolutely reduce it to no- 
 thing. ’Pis true, the Doge is encompaffed with 
 many Marks of Honour, but none of thofe pro- 
 perly relate to him : For they belong only to his 
 reprefentative Quality, like the Privilege which 
 Embafiadors have to be cover’d when they fpeak ' 
 to the Princes to whom they are fent. The Doge 
 is the Image or Reprefentative of the Republick, 
 whofe Pleafure it is to refled: its Glory upon him, 
 as it were to eafe itfelf of the Trouble of it *, yet 
 appropriating to it felf all the Honours he re- 
 ceives. And thofe Honours to which the Qua- 
 lity of Doge entitles him, are not paid to him :| 
 who is invefted with it, but that they may be I 
 immediately transferred to the State ; which feems 
 to have only fet him up for that Purpofe. This ■ 
 is fo true, that to hinder the Doge from abufing 
 thofe Honours which are only to pafs from him, 
 as through a Canal, they appoint Counfellors, 
 
 who 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
Part I. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 who have a conftant Eye over him, and may 
 vifit his Clofet when ever they pleafe. He can- 
 not take a Journey to the Continent, without 
 * Per million from the State *, and when he goes, 
 tho* with Leave, all his Honours vanifh there, 
 and he hath no more Authority than another 
 
 i Noble. From the firft Moment of his Election, 
 all his Relations who were in Offices are im- 
 mediately turned out : And when he dies, the 
 State wears no Mourning. This, Sir, is the true 
 Idea you ought to have of the Doge of Venice . I 
 will farther add, that if, notwithstanding all the 
 Care they take to curb his Power, he ffiould 
 endeavour to break out beyond his Sphere, fuch 
 Orders are taken as would prefently reftrain, 
 him. The t>oge is as much fubjedt to the Laws, 
 as the meaneft Perfon •, and the Inquifition of 
 the Scate is a Scourge, which feems to threaten 
 him more particularly than others. I fuppofe 
 you are acquainted with the unlimited Power of 
 this Tribunal j which you muft reckon to be 
 as rigorous and fevere, as the other Inquifition 
 at Venice is patient, and free from Rigour and 
 Severity. 
 
 I return to the Doge : for you muft know, 
 that notwithftanding all his Slavery, and the 
 Smallnels of his Authority, his Quality of Doge 
 entitles him to fome Privileges. He hath two 
 Voices in the great Council : He beftows the 
 petty Offices of the Palace ; and hath the No- 
 mination of the Primicerio^ and Canons of 
 St Mark. As for his other Honours, they are 
 given to the Republick, as I have already in- 
 formed you, in the Perfon of the Doge. In this 
 Senfe he is called Prince , and treated with Sere- 
 nity , which is a Term the Emperor ufes in fpeak- 
 ing to Kings, referving the Title of Majefty for 
 himfelf alone. There are fome Marks of Roy- 
 
284 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 alty in his Habits and Apparel. When he mar- 
 ches inState, they carry a Wax-Candle before 
 * This Chair him ; * a Folding Chair ; the Cuftiion which be- 
 hath two longs to it •, eight Silver Trumpets *, fome Haut- 
 Back. S ’ dnQ n ° b°y s ; and eight St indards, on which are the 
 Arms of Venice: There are two white, two red, 
 two violet, and two blue, which, ’tis faid, fig- 
 nify Peace and War, Truce and League. They 
 made us take Notice, that the two red ones 
 marched Erft, becaufe the Republick was at pre- 
 lent in War. In Time of Peace the white ones 
 have the Precedency : and fo of the reft. They 
 
 S»py 1 S in°the carr y alr ° near the Do S e > a k ) n d of Canopy, 
 Bogeys Apart- made like an Umbrello. He is ufually accom- 
 ment; not even panied by the Nuncio , and the other Embafta- 
 in the Hall, dors which are at Venice ^ except the Embaflador' 
 Audience g to eS °f ^P a ^ n j who never aftifts at any publick Cere- 
 Emhailadors. mony, fince the State gave the Precedency to 
 There are Ca- the Embaflador of France. Thefe Minifters have 
 where inThe t ^ ie ^ r Hats on their Heads. As for the Doge, 
 Gsnfklonnier's he never pulls off his Como , but on one of thefe 
 Lodging, at two Occafions ; either at the Moment when the 
 Lucca. Hoff is elevated, or when he receives a Vifit 
 from a Prince of Royal Blood, or from a Car- 
 dinal. I muff tell you, by the way, that Car- 
 dinals fit in the fame great Chair with the 
 Doge ; this Chair having a Spring or Machine 
 made on Purpofe to let it out, fo as two Perfons p 
 may fit together : And the Doge gives the 
 
 Right-hand to Cardinals. But to return to the 
 Proceflion : The principal Senators march after, 
 and the Sword of State is carried before them, I 
 to denote that the Authority refides in the Coun- 
 cil, and not in the Doge. I am not as yet well 
 enough informed of the Particulars of the reft 
 of this March, to give you an exadt Defcrip- 
 tion of it •, but it is not very material. I muft 
 farther acquaint you, that the Money bears the 
 
 Name 
 
Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 Name of the Doge : That the Letters of the 
 Confederate Princes and States are dire&ed to 
 him : That he gives Audience to Embafladors, 
 and that Declarations are publifhed in his Name. 
 . Thefe laft Particulars need fome Explanation : 
 ’Tis true, the Name of the Doge is, on the 
 Money, but his Arms are not •, and his Image 
 is there only Hiftorically. This Money is pro- 
 perly the Coin of Venice . On the Reverfe is the 
 Doge on his Knees, at the Foot of the Primi- 
 cerio , who fits and reprefents St Mark. Thofewho 
 : told you that this Figure is JESUS CHRIST 
 are mightily miftaken : ’Tis St Mark, under the 
 Figure of the Primicerio. This has been often 
 plainly faid by the Venetian Writers •, and we need 
 only look upon a Piece of the Coin to be con- 
 | vinced of the Truth of it. And you may alfo 
 fee what M. Si Didier has written about it, 
 Page 174 of the Holland Edition printed at the 
 Hague 1685. The Doge takes an Oath of Fide- 
 lity to the Patron St Mark , having one Hand on 
 the Mafs-Book/and with the other receiving the 
 Banner of the State. By this you may perceive, 
 that this is no Honour to the Doge*, and that 
 i his Image has no more Marks of Authority, 
 ithan that of the Primicerio. As for the Letters of 
 ! Princes, the Truth is, they are diredled and pre^ 
 fented to the Doge ; but it belongs not to him 
 1 to open them, without firft communicating them 
 to the Council : that is to fay, the Council re- 
 ceives them by his Hands. And it is the fame 
 i thing with refpedt to Embafladors *, for the Af- 
 fair is confulted before, and the Anfwer is fo 
 exa.6tly put, Word for Word, into the Mouth 
 of the Doge, that if at any Time he happens 
 to forget, or perhaps to make a willing Mi- 
 ftake, he muif expert to be corrected on the 
 Spot. As to what concerns A 6b of State, he is 
 
 but 
 
286 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 but the Herald ; the Senate enadls, and the Doge 
 publiffies them. 
 
 ’Tis plain then, that if in any Cafe Gold and 
 Purple are but glaring Pageants ; and if the 
 Grandours of the World are but Chimeras and 
 {lately Yokes *, the Doge of Venice is an eminent 
 Inftance of thefe T ruths. 
 
 When the Doge is Tick, or dies, the eldeft 
 of the fix Counfellors, whom I mentioned be- 
 fore, takes his Place, and reprefents his Per- 
 fon in publick Ceremonies, and upon all other 
 Occafions. But he neither wears his Habit, nor 
 fits in his Seat. And as the Doge never takes 
 off his Cornoy fo the Vice-Doge never pulls off 
 his Baretta . 
 
 I have, in Obedience to your Defire, infilled 
 the longer on thefe Particulars : But you mult 
 
 not think that I have reveal’d to you any My- 
 ftery, in the Account I have given you of the 
 Doge : For though thefe things are not agreeable 
 to the Ideas you had conceived, nor, perhaps, j 
 to thofe of the greatefl Part of the World ; they 
 See what Mr are all generally known here. I will not med- 
 Amelot has die with the Article of Government, that would 
 written of it, be too tedious and difficult a Subjedt for me to 
 unc krtake 5 who neither have Time, nor Intel- I 
 certain Writer, %ence fufficient to be fully inllrudted in fo many 
 as I have been Things, 
 told, has lately 
 
 wrote againft him, with a great deal of ill Manners, and very little Knowledge. \ 
 
 I proceed, in the next Place, to anfwer i 
 your Queflions concerning the Patriarch. This 
 Dignity can only be poffdfed by a Noble Vene- 
 tian* He is eledted by the Senate, and confirm- 
 ed by the Pope ; I need not tell you, that his 
 Dignity is very eminent *, but his Authority 
 is extreamly bounded. The Redtors of the 
 
 Parifhes 
 
Part I. VITALY. Venice. 287 
 
 Parifhes are chofen by the People •, the Patri- The Reftors 
 arch can nominate only to two or three Bene- of Parl ^ es 
 fices : And the Clergy in general, to fpeak pro- People of 7 
 perly, acknowledges no Superiority but that of each Parilh. 
 the State. This Prelate wears a Violet coloured The Day of 
 Habit. He only ftyles himfelf at the Beginning s thc 
 
 of his Orders *, jV divind miferatione Venetia - p rc f ent them . 
 
 rum Patriarcha . N by the Mercy of God , felves, every 
 
 Patriarch of Venice : And adds not, as others do, or } Q exalting 
 Elf antics fedis Apoftolicce gratia •, And by the Grace JV* 
 of the Holy Apoftolick See: The Venetians defire fami ng his 
 nothing more, than wholly to free themfelves Antagonifts. 
 from the Authority of that which is called the ^ B“ rnet - 
 Holy See. Knowledge, or perfonal Merit, is no be not^ver^n 
 more requir’d to be made a Patriarch, than a three Days, 
 Pope : Such Qualifications as thefe are altogether the State no- 
 needlefs in thofe Cafes ; but’tis bylntereft and In- minateS * 
 trigue that thofe Dignities are obtained, as’tis the 
 Habit which makes the Monk. You would be 
 extreamly furprized, and perhaps would hardly 
 believe me, if I fliould attempt to give you a 
 naked Account of the Ignorance and Irregula- 
 rity that reigns in this Country, among all thofe 
 who call themfelves Clergy-men. They fay. 
 
 Cardinal Barberigo , Bifhop of Padua , who is a 
 venerable old Man, and a wife Perfon, fome- 
 times takes the Pains to preach againft thofe 
 Abufes. He does all that he can, to make the 
 Priefts underftand a little Latin. And his Zeal 
 has been extended fo far as to double the Grates 
 of fome Nunneries in his Diocefe, in hopes they 
 will follow his Example at Venice , where the 
 * Speaking-places are of too eafy Communication : * j r es p ar i 0 i rs 
 But all his Endeavours have produced no Effedt des Convent. 
 among a People who are noc willing to give Ear 
 to fuch Spoilers of merry Company. 
 
 I must not forget to acquaint you, fince I am 
 talking of the Clergy, with a very pleafant Se- 
 cret 
 
2 88 
 
 * Mr Sebei- 
 bier a Luthe- 
 ran Minifter, 
 in the County 
 of Juliers, 
 hath writ a 
 Book concern- 
 ing the Mira- 
 cles of this 
 Capuchin. 
 And you may 
 fee fome Sto- 
 ries of him in 
 the Treatife 
 of J . Zzvin - 
 gerus , Prof, in 
 Divin. at Ba- 
 f.ly de fefto 
 Corporis 
 Chrifti. This 
 Holy Conjurer 
 has not ap- 
 peared fince 
 the Year 1691. 
 And ’twas cer- 
 tainly Time to 
 
 Venice. A Ne r tf Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 cret which was found out here, in favour of 
 fome Priefts that are Muficians. You know it 
 is a Law without Exception, that a Prieft muft 
 be a compleat Man ; according as you’ll find 
 it in Deuteronomy , Chap, xxiii. 1 . Neverthe- 
 3efs, as it has been obferved, that this Perfedion 
 of the Body is fometimes the Caufe of the Im- 
 perfedion of the Voice ; and as on the other 
 Hand, the Sweetnefs of the Voice is of great 
 Ufe to infinuate Things the better into the Minds 
 of People, both in the Church, and at the Ope- 
 ra •, they have found an Expedient to remove 
 this Difficulty, and have concluded, that a Prieft 
 fitted for Mufick, may exercife the Prieftly- 
 Office as well as another *, provided he have his 
 NeceJJaries , or, if you will, his Superfluities in his 
 Pocket. I will not be bound to produce the 
 Ad for this Regulation, which, perhaps, was 
 only given viva voce . But however, I can po- 
 fitively affure you, from my own certain Know- 
 ledge, that what I tell you is Truth. 
 
 Father * Mark Aviano , whom I mentioned 
 in my Letter from Augsburg , is at prefent here : 
 I went twice or thrice to hear him preach, but 
 could not get Admittance. One that would fe- 
 cure a Place muft go three or four Hours before 
 he begins. The Devotion of the People is fo 
 great for this pretended Worker of Miracles, 
 that at firft they tore his Caffock, and plucked 
 off the Hairs of his Beard, and had certainly 
 pull’d him to Pieces, that they might get fome 
 Relicks of him, if his Friends had not bethought 
 themfelves to make a Hole in the Church Wall *, 
 by which he enters into the Pulpit, through a Gal- 
 lery, which leads diredly thither from a neigh- 
 bouring Houfe, and fo prefer ved him from thefe 
 foolifh Devotions of the fuperftitious People. 
 
 withdraw, after lie had play’d fuch a difficult Part fo long. 
 
 It 
 
289 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 It is juft I ifhould fay fomething, being in 
 Venice , of the illuftrious Fra. Paolo: All that I 
 could learn concerning him among the Servile 
 Friars was, that they hold his Memory in great * Near the 
 Veneration. But, to tell the Truth, I believe 
 thofe who fpoke of him to me, knew very little nus . ' anc ^ a i_ 
 of him, as I could eafily perceive by their Dif- moftover- 
 courfe ; for they told me, that they knew not a f ai £ { *i hat 
 where his Body lay, but God would difcover it °j^^ ew 
 in due Time. They have prefer ved the Dagger dramcno. I 
 which that great Man called Stylum Romanum , on have feen it, 
 fo juft and true an Occafion. This Dagger is to . 
 
 be feen at the Feet of the Crucifix which is upon buU^ave 1 ’ 
 the * Altar of St Magdalen. been told in 
 
 1 709, that it 
 
 was removed from thence into another Place. Travellers will alfo find an Al- 
 teration in feveral Things fir.ee the Time of my firft giving a Relation of them. 
 This Church is of a Got hick Architecture, but large and well adorned. The 
 Painting of the Organ, and the Hiltory of Cain and Abel above it, are by the 
 Hand of Tint or et. There is a very fine Piece of the Afliimption, by Jofepb 
 Salviati , in the great Chapel ; and there are feveral Tombs in the Cloyiler. See 
 the feveral other Remarks upon Venice , in the Beginning of the fecond Volume. 
 
 I should never make an End, Ihould I under- 
 take to fpeak of the Churches, the f Cabinets of 
 Curiofities, and an hundred other Things *, and 
 therefore I lhall content my felf with what I 
 have faid at prefent* We are refolved to lie to 
 morrow Night a t Padua, where we have fecured 
 a Coach to carry us to Loretto. The Froft, which 
 hath continued for two whole Months, without 
 Intermiffion, hath fo dried the Roads, that we 
 hope to jogg on eafily. I expetft at Rome to hear 
 from you : Pray let me not be difippointed, and 
 believe that I am very fincerely, 
 
 Venice , Feb. 
 14. 1687. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 S I R, 
 
 Tour , &c. 
 
 U LETTER 
 
 f Among the 
 Cabinets, you 
 may particu- 
 larly fee thofe 
 of the Palace 
 Rofini ; of the 
 Procurator 
 JuJiiniani', of 
 the Family of 
 Capello ; of 
 M . G. Bar- 
 bara', ofMef- 
 lieur iMorofinii 
 Grimani , Ju - 
 jiiniani , Gar - 
 zoni, and Za - 
 ni ; of the Ba- 
 ron de TaJJis ; 
 of Dr Bon ; 
 and of Fran - 
 eifeo Rota. 
 Spn. 
 
Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 SIR , 
 
 I T H I N K I told you, in the End of my lart 
 Letter, that I would not undertake to defcribe 
 the Venetian Churches. I do not well remember, 
 tyhat Reafons I did alledge to excufe my Silence : 
 But, to fpeak ingenuoufly, I was fomewhat wea- 
 ry, and ’twas mere Lazinefs that made me finifh 
 my Letter. There are many fine Churches in 
 this City, and they are generally either magni- 
 ficent, or fo full of Things , that defefve to be 
 taken Notice of, that if 1 fhould not entertain 
 you a while on fo curiotis a Subject, you might 
 piftly fufpedt that I had forgotten the Promife I 
 made you, to give you an Account of all the Ra- 
 rities I fhould meet with. And therefore to make 
 Amends for my late Negledt, I am refolved to 
 prefent you with a fhort Abftrabt of my large 
 journal ; that is, of the moft remarkable Ob- 
 servations I find in it about thefe facred Edifices : 
 For, if I fhould tranfcribe all, my laft Fault 
 would perhaps be worfe than the firff. 
 
 ’Tis one of the Peculiarities of Venice , that 
 fome of the Churches are dedicated to Saints 
 that were never canonized, *fuch as the good 
 Man Jol\ the Prophets Mofes, Samuel , Jere- 
 rhiah , t)aniel , and Zachary •, to whom perhaps 
 there might be feme others added. I had the 
 Curiofity to vifit the Temples that are confe- 
 crated to thefe illuftrious Names ; but could not 
 find any thing more extraordinary in them than 
 their Dedication. 
 
 One 
 
291 
 
 Part I. ^ ITALY. Venice, 
 
 One of the fined of thofe facred Strudlures js 
 that which is dedicated to St Mofes. It has a ma- 
 jeftick Front which was built by Alexander Tre- 
 mignone , at the Charge of the * Procurator Vincent 
 Fini, They preferve feveral Relicks in this Church, 
 and pretend, that they are both very authcntick 
 and effedtual. However, fince they confid only 
 of Arms, Legs, and Jaw-bones, I will not 
 trouble you with a Catalogue of them. But when 
 I meet with fome Holy Curiofity that deferVes to 
 be particularly taken Notice of, as fome Fore- 
 skins of a Pbilijline , fome Peas of St Francis’s I Hue, 
 or a Shoe of the Trojan Horfe [for any thing is 
 good enough to make a Relick] you may infal- 
 libly expert to hear of it. As for the Church of 
 St Samuel ’twill be fufficient to tell you, that 
 there is nothing remarkable to befeen in it. St Job’s 
 is a pretty fine Building : In the Vedry they keep 
 a Body of St Luke , and the Benediftines ofSzJuftina 
 at Padua have another. But fince the *f PQpe 
 declared for the former, the Monks of Padua 
 have taken the Refolution to be humbly filent. 
 I believe there are above 300 Epitaphs in my 
 Journal. Thefe Hidorical Elogies having com- 
 monly fomething agreeable and ufeful together, 
 I fill my Table -Book with them ; and afterwards I 
 tranfcribe the bed. Here is one that was made 
 for a certain Dogefs ; and though perhaps, you 
 will find nothing extraordinary in it but the Name 
 of the Perfon, yet I think the very Simplicity of 
 it will pleafe you? 
 
 % Decs, rarijjimce mulieris , EluftriJJimi Bom . Ni- 
 colai Throni inclyti Ducis Venetiarum Comjugis , hu- 
 mili f| hoc in loco corpus jujju fuo conditum eft . Animum 
 verb ejus , propter vitcz virtutem , & Morum Sanfti- 
 tate?n , ad Cceleftem Patriam advolajfe credendum eft . 
 An. Sal, M. CCCC. LXXVIII. 
 
 U 2 
 
 * Who died 
 Anno 1 66a. 
 Aged 83 
 Years. 
 
 f Piu$ II; 
 
 f Her Name 
 
 was Dea : Of 
 the Family of 
 the Morojtni's. 
 || In the Cloi- 
 iter of St Job . 
 
 At 
 
2 9 2 
 
 * A fine 
 Church. 
 
 -f- On the 
 great Gate 
 there is a fine 
 Marble Statue 
 which repre- 
 fents Zachary. 
 J Particularly 
 the Great Al- 
 tar. 
 
 || ’Twas he 
 who made the 
 Statue of Za- 
 chary : Below 
 oh thd Floor, 
 Alexander 
 Pitt or la, cujus 
 cniima in bene- 
 dittione fit, 
 1605. 
 
 * Santa Maria 
 della Salute 
 The Monks, ■ 
 are called So- 
 mafchi. 
 
 ■f Benedict n 
 Monks. In 
 the Iflc of 
 Giudeca . A 
 fi'ie Cloiiter. 
 
 A large and 
 fair Garden. 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 At * St Jeremy's they have one of that Pro- 
 phet’s Teeth; and ’tis reafonable they fhould 
 have a Relick of their Patron. If the reft had 
 imitated fo judicious an Example, we might 
 perhaps have had the Pleafure to have feen one 
 of Mofes's Elorns, and Job's Scabs. The great 
 Altar, and the Tomb of St John the Martyr , Duke 
 of Alexandria , are the moft remarkable Things I 
 obferved at St Daniel's . St Zachary's is a fine Buil- 
 ding : The Architecture is not modern, but the 
 -f* Front is enriched with fine Marble, and the In- 
 fid e beautify ’d with many Ornaments. There are 
 alfo magnificent t Altars in it. Among the 
 Tombs I took Notice of that of Alexander Victoria , 
 a famous Sculptor, with this Infcription. 
 
 || Alexander Viktoria , 
 
 4J ui vivus vivos duxit e mapmore 
 
 VultUSm 
 
 To have avoided being guilty of falfe Quan- 
 tity, the laft Syllable of duxit being fhort •, they 
 might have tranfpofed the Word, and placed it 
 either before vivus, or in the Place of vultus . 
 
 The famous Church of St Mark, of which I 
 gave you a large Account, is fo enriched with 
 Mofaick Work, that in this Refpect the Churches 
 of St George Major , and de la * Salute ought not 
 to come in Competition with it. But if we con- 
 fid'er the Architecture, St Mark's is an ugly obfeure 
 Place, in Comparifon to thefe Churches. The beft 
 Judges give the Preference to f St George's \ but 
 common Eyes find fomething in the Church della 
 Salute that is more agreeable to them. The De- 
 figns are quite different. St George's is not unlike 
 to St Jnftina's at Padua ; for the Contrivance or 
 gufto is the fame in both. ’Tis true, St Juftina's is 
 larger, and perhaps more magnificent within ; 
 
2 93 
 
 Part I. to I T A L Y. Venice. 
 
 but its Outfide is naked, whereas the other is 
 adorned with an admirable f Front, on which t This is one 
 there are three Infcriptions ; which ’twill not be p[ c ^ s e of/>° / S 
 improper to infert, becaule tliey are fhort and / a ^ 0m 
 Hiftorical. 
 
 || Memories T, ribuni Memi optimi Principis , qui 9 II On the right 
 Fadiiofis JJrbe pulfis ; inde Ottonis II. Ccefaris odio in hailci * 
 Rcmpub. mirifice elttfi , de eddem unique pr emeritus 9 
 ut (Eternam , eamque certiorem adipifeeretur Gloriam , 
 abdicato Imperio , hanc Infulam Monachus incoluit , ac 
 ejufdem f inftiluit Viris , pie legavit. lidemgrati animi + Th rou g^ 
 ergo pofuere M. DC.X. Deceit MCCCCXCII. 
 
 Injiituti. 
 
 * Sebafliani Ziani invidli Duels cujus Armis f radio, * On the left. 
 priu s Friderici Mnobarb. Ccefaris pertinacid , mox offi- 
 ces dtlinitd , eundem inter fe & Alexandrum III, Pon- 
 tiff Max. Pads Arbitrum voluit, qua nutans Chrifiia- 
 na Refp. tandem , fublato diffidio 9 conquievit. 
 
 *j“ Monachi pluribus obfiridli beneficiis, celebriori t Thefe two 
 loco monumentum pofuere , M. DC. X. Obiit M. D. E P^ a P hswere 
 
 t yyitt With the 
 
 ■DAXIII. Tombs in the 
 
 I! D . O. M old Church. 
 
 Sacrum Georgii ac Stepbani Protom. tutela , Mona- II * n the 
 chorum cere M. D. LVI. dfundamentis c cep turn , ad - if 01 ° Vcr the 
 front e abfolnturn. Anno Humance Reparations 
 M. DC. X. Leon, -f* Don. Principe. ^ Leonardo 
 
 Donato Doge. 
 
 His Tomb is in the Church, with an Epitaph, which magnifies his Virtues 
 extreamly. 
 
 The great Altar of this Church is enriched 
 with Marble of the fmefl Sort, and curioufly 
 wrought. ’ Fis alfo adorned with feveral Statues, 
 the .chief of which are the || four Evangel ills I! By Jerome 
 iupporting a World, on which there is a Padre Cam P a Z na - 
 ILterno. The whole is of Brafs gilt. 
 
 U3 
 
 The 
 
294 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 The Seats of the Canons round the Choir are 
 of Walnut-Tree, on which the Life of St Bene- 
 dict is defcrib’d in very fine Bajfo Relievo's ; where 
 + Perfpeftive the Rules of 4 Perfpe&ive are well obferv’d. 
 
 In a Chapel, near the Tomb of the Procurator 
 moft f am0 us Vincent , Morofini , thofe who have good Eyes ob- 
 Antique Bajfo ferve on a Marble Pillar, and on iome Places 
 Relievo's. 0 f the Balifters, Fifhes, Birds, and other Things 
 WorVof*!^ natural] y » and even an entire Crucifix. 
 
 Brugle, a I mean the Eyes of Imagination, for there is 
 Fleming, who, nothing like it in Reality, though certain little 
 if we may be- Books that are to be bought at Venice , fay To. 
 Monks C was Church they have the Body of St Ste - 
 
 at thatTime phen the Protomartyr, which a pious Woman, 
 but twenty five called Juliana , brought from Jerufalem to Confian- 
 tinople *, from whence ’twas afterwards transpor- 
 ted to Venice , by one Peter a Monk. The whole 
 Story is defcribed at length in two long Latin 
 Infcriptions, which | had the Patience to tran~ 
 fcribe, but I’m afraid you would not have the 
 Patience to read. I have alfo filled my Table- 
 book with feveral Epitaphs of Doges, Procura- 
 tors, and other Noblemen of the Country *, but 
 I fhall content my felf with inferring that of the, 
 Doge Domini co * Michel 
 
 Years old. 
 
 * At prefent 
 they fay Mi- 
 (belt. 
 
 The Doges in 
 thofe Days, 
 were not Sta- 
 tues. 
 
 Fleftere for 
 Fle5le. There 
 are alfo fome 
 Faults againll 
 the Rules of 
 Rrofodia . 
 
 \ Terror G rce corum jacet hie , &? laus Venetorum , 
 Dominicus Michael quern tenet Emmanuel 
 Dux probus & fortis, quern totus adhuc colit Orbis » 
 Prudens confilio , fummus & ingenio. 
 
 Iilius aEta viri declarat captio Eyri : 
 
 Interitus Syria?, mceror & Ungarice. 
 
 §fui fecit Venetos in pace manere quietos ; 
 
 Donee envn vixit, P atria tut a fuit . 
 
 Quifquis ad hoc pulchrum venies fpefia refepul thru m y 
 Genua ante Demi fleClere propter eum . 
 
 Anno Domini M. C. XX. VIII. IndiClione VII. 
 obiit Dominicus Michael Dux Yenetice* 
 
 The 
 
Parti, to I T A L Y. Venice. 295 
 
 The Choir, Altars, Floor, Dome and Veftry 
 of the Church della Salute , are all extreamly 
 beautiful. The Foundations of this Structure * Two Years 
 were laid March 25. 163 1. The Occafion is rela- ^P e c nt in 
 ted in this Infcription, which was placed on the x c 
 firft Stone. 
 
 Diva Marine Salutis Matri Tetnpl. cedificandi , ad virgb for De- 
 Peftilentiam extinguendam , Senatus ex voto , primus Iterance from 
 hie lapis. An. Dom. 1631. 25. Mart. UrbanoVlll. ™f. P p? ue \ 
 Sum . Pont. Nicolao Contareno Luce ; Joan. Lbeupolo wasbuiit^by 
 Patriarcbd. Baltbafar 
 
 *Tis adorned, both without and within, with about one hundred and thirty 
 Marble Statues. ’Tw'as ere&ed at the Charge of thePublick; whereas molt 
 of the other Churches were built by private Families, and confoquently may 
 be looked upon as fo many Marks either of their Vanity or Piety [that is, of 
 the Piety, which is in Falhion at Venice J and of their vafl? Riches. !Tis cer- 
 tain, that there is a confiderable Number of very rich Families in this City. 
 
 On die great Altar there is a Statue of the 
 Virgin, holding the little Jefus in her Arms. On 
 her right Hand is Venice ^ imploring her Aftiftance, 
 and begging her to (lop the Progrefs of that 
 mortal and contagious Diftemper : On the other 
 Side is Peftilence flying, purfued by an Angel 
 with a Torch in his Hand. St Mark is prefent, 
 with the blefled Lawrence Juftiniani , and feveral 
 others. All thefe Statues are of fine Marble, and 
 made by a curious Hand. 
 
 I dare not undertake to deferibe all the Em* 
 bellifliments of this Noble Stru&ure. 
 
 St James's de Rialto is faid to be the firft Church About the 
 that was built on thefe Spots of Ground, on Ycar 4 2, ‘ 
 which Venice is founded. But it has been fo 
 often deftroyed and rebuilt, that it may be rec- 
 koned a new Church, notwithstanding its boaft- 
 cd Antiquity. The Altar in the great Chapel 
 
 U 4 * is 
 
2g 6 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 * Obelatus 15 of white Marble, adorned with a fine Statue 
 
 the ^ of St James by Alex. Victoria. 
 
 774,° and 'To- St Mark's Church is but a Chapel to the Doge’s 
 revzo Juft- Palace. St Peter's di Caftello is the * Epifcopal 
 mani the firft an d Patriarchal Church. ’Tis pretty large, and 
 t1lie ^ ^ ront: deferves to be taken Notice of for 
 For die Patri- its beautiful Simplicity. And though no extra- 
 archate of ordinary Care has been taken to embellifh this 
 
 Grade was Church, there are fome very confiderable Orna- 
 
 Biflioprick 0/ ments > and feveral Sorts of remarkable Things to 
 Venice ; and be feen in it. 
 both thefe 
 
 Dignities were conferred upon Lorenzo , by Pope Nicholas V. 
 
 j ’Twas built by Fr. Smeraldi, at the Charge of Lorenzo Priolo, Cardinal 
 and Patriarch. I obferved thefe two Jnfcriptions upon it. 
 
 D. O. M. Domus Domini aedificata fuper firmam petram, in longitudinem 
 dierum. AnnoSal 1 ^96. Clem. VIII. Pont. M. 
 
 Laurentii S. R. E. Card. Priolo Patriar. Ven. pium Monum. Anno fui 
 Patr. VT Marino Grimano Duce Venetiarum. 
 
 The great Altar was eredted by the Senate, in 
 Purfuance of a Vow they had made during the 
 War againft the Lurks, 1649. ’Tis dedicated to 
 the Beato Lorenzo •, and the Body of that Demi- 
 Saint is plac’d in a (lately Marble Tomb, fup- 
 M^rbfe^^ta 116 P Qrtec ^ ^Y Angels and || Apoftles. The Statue of 
 tues. The the Beato (lands upon the Tomb that contains his 
 whole by B . Bones. There is an Infcription over the Door 
 longhena. 0 f the Veftry, which not long fince occafioned a 
 
 * The one Quarrel betwixt two * German Gentlemen, about 
 ZTfahzburg, ^ ie Words Tutelage tinmen, that you may obferve 
 
 or thereabouts’ this Infcription. 
 a Roman Ca - 
 
 tholick v the other — - — Kerglaw, of in Silejia , a Lutheran. They 
 
 drew their Swords in the open Place, over-againft the Church, and were 
 both wounded. This Accident happened, Anno 1684. 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Beato Laurentio Juftiniano , pvno Venetian nm Pa- 
 triarchy j Jfirpis claritudine augufto Sanctimonies 
 
 gloria 
 
 j| St Peter , 
 St Paul , 
 
 St Mark , 
 
2 97 
 
 Parti. ^ ITALY. Venice. 
 
 gloria longe auguftiori ; Tutelar i Numini benefi- 
 centijfimo , ad Jdcros cuius cincres Tcmplum hoc illu - 
 Jlrantes , Civitate in peftilentia tanti Civis auxilium 
 expertd , quotannis ejus die perpetua feftivitate cele- 
 brando , Senatus Religiojijfimus venerationis ergo ex 
 voto accedit . Federicus S. R. E. Cardimlis Corne- 
 lius maximi cultus minimum argument um die . 
 
 Near this Infcription, upon the Wall of the 
 Church, there are two Epitaphs that are thought 
 to be well written, and confequently will not be 
 unacceptable to you. 
 
 Alajejlas quam * fufpicis 
 Viator 
 
 Frontis Fran . Mauroceni f D. M. Pro , refert. 
 Hie Ille , at non Hie unus , 
 
 * The Bull i$ 
 over the Epi- 
 taph. 
 
 Lingua & calamo diferte multiplex , 
 
 Mente & manu impigre omnigenus y 
 Moderandis Provinciis ter magnus, 
 
 Imperandis Armis ter major , 
 
 Maturandis confiliis terque quaterque maxitnus: 
 
 Feltria y Tarvifium , Brixia teftesy 
 Palma , Candia, iterum Candia 
 Pervicacium cade f elicit er cruenta, 
 
 E Jovis monte importato in Forum fonte y 
 Veneto fumptUy Romano aufu ; 
 
 Immortaliter fed hilariter irrigua 
 Virtus benigniori femper imbre recreata . 
 
 Fato irafeere fero te adventafje abi. 
 
 Obiit H. an. cet. XXCII. Sal. Hum . 
 
 M. DC. XLI. Divi Marci 
 
 Procurator^, 
 
 or, Divi Marci Procuratorem. If Fran, (lands for Francifcum. They 
 ought to fay Maurocenum , or Moroftni ; if they mean Francifci, it is not to 
 be conftrued. See the following Epitaph. 
 
 Ofa 
 
29S, Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Oja 
 
 Helenas Capellas, 
 
 Qmnigenis virtutibus infignitce 'Matrons, 
 Francifci Mauroceni Conjugis prcedilelice : 
 Genere , Forma, Venuftate * 
 
 Grcecam *, 
 
 Flkfe, Pudore, Piet ate, 
 
 Pomanam Helenam refer entis ; 
 
 In hoc poftremo Humanitatis domicilw 
 requiefcunt . 
 
 I have feen feme devout Perfens kifs a Stone 
 f On the Chair which is * kept in this Church : They 
 yigkt hand as p re tend that St Peter made Ufe of it when he 
 twixt^he fe-" was at ^ nil0C ^ » and a Sacriftan informed me, 
 cond and third that ’twas a Prefen t of Michael Palceologus, Em- 
 Altar, by the peror of Conftajitinople. The fame Perfon told 
 
 pltriarchal he me a ^ tor y a ^ razen Crofs, that was found 
 Palace 1 is on floating in feme Part of the Lagunes , and brought 
 the fame Side with a great deal of Ceremony to this Church* 
 of the Church. They have a Veneration for it; but the Crofs 
 Blent ^ioufe ~ cou ^ never tell them what kept it from finking 
 but piakes no when it was in the Water : And tho* it is evident- 
 great Show, ly miraculous, no body may fay that he remem- 
 bers to have feen it working any Miracle. So that 
 notwithftanding every Church, and almofl: every 
 Chapel is abundantly provided with Pieces of the 
 true Crofs, this brazen one, as extraordinary as it 
 is, is femewhat negle&ed* The Monks of St 
 •i In the Cha- Michael , betwixt Venice and Mur am, have f a 
 M of D the , Fa ' fine one, which is endu’d with a particular Vir- 
 my ri00 ' tue to appeafe Tempefts. The Hiftory of it is 
 full of furprizing Wonders: 3 Tis written on a 
 Scroll of Vellum, in fo antique a Manner, that 
 this Confideration alone would be fufficient to 
 prove the Truth of the Relation, though they 
 had no other Arguments to confirm it. 
 
 ’Twas 
 
299 
 
 fiart I. to I T A L X. Venice 
 
 *Twas in XJflige heretofore, that never any 
 Vefiel let Sail from the Port of Venice till the 
 Pilot, and all the Ship’s Crew had recommended 
 themfelves to the Protection of this miraculous 
 Crofs. But the Pleat of this Devotion is much a- 
 bated *, for it feems ’tis the Misfortune of Venice , 
 as well as of other Places, that good Cuftomsare 
 fooner forgotten than bad ones. The Choir of 
 the Church is much commended for the Rich- 
 hels and Beauty of the Work. In a little Cham- 
 ber near the Choir, there is a Map of the World 
 <trawn with the Hand, and adorned with Minia- 
 tures *, which is' certainly a curious Piece. He They have 
 that made it was a Monk of this Convent, as it 
 appears by the Medals that were {truck on that 
 Occafion, with this Motto, Frater Maurus S. 
 
 Michaelis Morianenfis de Venetiis , Or dinis Camaldu - 
 lenfiSy Cofmographus incoinparabilis . 
 
 The Monk who lhewed us thefe Things car- 
 ried us to a little, but magnificent * Chapel near * William 
 the Church. Hefaid the People generally believed 
 that ‘twas built by a Courtezan, with the Profits chiteft of it. 
 of her lewd Vocation *, yet at the fame time he \ After Six- 
 aifured us in (trong Terms, that they were mif- tu J V had ex- 
 taken : But what fignifies it whether true or falfe ? 
 
 Solon built a Temple to Venus with the Money he was forced* 
 that was earned by common Proftitutes ; and why fay they, to 
 {hould they not do the fame at Rome and Venice , cil1 them 
 where fuch lewd Women are not only tolerated, avoid worfef 
 but f invited'; proteded, countenanced, and Thau Jhalt not 
 publicity allowed of l bring the Hire 
 
 The Convent cannot be termed a magnificent f nt a 0 ^°^ u r e 
 Strudure *, but *ris certainly a neat Building, and ^f^LorVtty 
 agreeably fituated. For from hence you have God for any 
 % the profped of Venice , Murano , Lido , Terra Vow. Deuu 
 . firma , and feveral Places in the Lagunes , with- XX1U * l8 * 
 out mentioning the Walks and Gardens that be- 
 long to the Convent. Above 200 Years ago, a Anno 149^ 
 
 Spani/h 
 
3<do Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 SpanijJj Embaffador was fo charmed with the 
 Beauties of this Place, that he refolved to fpend 
 the Remainder of his Days in it. They made 
 us take Notice of his Epitaph, which, they told 
 us, was written by the famous Aldus Manutius . 
 
 Lector parumper ftfte ; rent miram leges. Hie Eu - 
 * He turned febii Hifpani * Monachi corpus fetum eft . Vir unde - 
 Monk. quaque qui fuit doftijfmus ; noftree quoque vitce Ex- 
 
 emplar admirabile . Morbo labor ans, Jexdecim totos 
 f See Ben/, g ies e g cns bibens ‘f nihil prorfus , & ufque fuos ma - 
 Da/w Hoc te feire volebam . yffo’ vale* 
 
 I will not trouble you with an Account of the 
 other Tombs and Epitaphs that are to be feen in 
 this Place. But fmee we are fo near the Glafs- 
 houfes at Murano , I fhall take this Qccafion to 
 make fome Remarks upon them. 
 
 % It contains MURANO is one of t larged and mod 
 fifteen Chur- agreeable Blands in the Lagunes , about a Ihort 
 ches^ compre- Mile f rom y en [ C e. There are fome fine || Houfes 
 of the*Con- ° lt > an ^ a g reat tnany more Gardens, propor- 
 
 vents. This is tionably, than at Venice. There is a Canal which 
 one of the runs C rofs the Bland, which is larger than the 
 Mandf PUl ° US other Canals in the feme Place : And the fe- 
 jj Particularly mous Glafs-houfes, which you have heard fo 
 that of M. Ca- often mentioned, are feated on this Canal. You 
 millo Trevifa- mud not imagine, that there is any Thing at 
 Garden* ^ extraordinary in thefe Buildings. They are 
 Fountain, &c. divided into feveral Lodgings, Halls, Ware- 
 houfes, Furnaces, &c. as in other Places. For- 
 merly the Glafs called Venicc-Cryftal , was the 
 fined in Europe \ but at prefect it does not 
 merit that Title. Not that ’tis coarfer than 
 before, but becaufe they have found the Se- 
 cret in other Places, to make Glafs, at lead, 
 as fine as that of Venice. Mr de S. Didier writes, 
 that he heard a Mader of a Glafs-houfe at Ve- 
 
 nice • 
 
Parti, to I T A L Y. Murano. 
 
 3°i 
 
 nice offer an * Hundred thoufand Franks to any* About 
 Man that would teach him the Secret of ma- ^ Ig . ht p tho )J' 
 king Glafs as white as that of a Cup that was s^erling.^ S 
 brought from Paris. And one of my Friends 
 afiur’d me, that a few Years ago, having car- 
 ried a Vial of the fined Cryftal of Murano to 
 London , the Work-men there were fo far from 
 looking upon it as extraordinary or inimita- 
 ble, that they laid they cou’d, and fometimes 
 did, make finer Work. The Skill they have ^ 
 acquir’d in other Countries, and the Manufac- j s prohibited 
 tures they have eredled , have aimed ruin’d in France. 
 the Trade of Murano. Their whited and pu- 
 red Glafs is made of certain f Stones that are f They are 
 found in the Tefino y the Afhes of feveral Herbs white, and 
 that are found in the Country about Tripoli fome o{r .’ em 
 in Barbary , and the other ufual Ingredients. one’^Head ** 
 They make ufe alfo of certain other Stones that 
 are found in the Adige y and the Sand that is 
 gather’d on the Shore of the Gulf on the Dal- 
 matian Side : But this is only for common 
 Glafs. The Glafs-makers of Murano dyle them- 
 felves Gentlemen , fince they were ennobled 
 by Henry III, who had the Curiofity to fee „ 
 
 ’em at Work when he pafs’d through Venice. ^nT 
 And they enjoy all the Privileges of the Ci-to Murano 
 tadinance. in the Buccn- 
 
 But let us return to our Churches. I will not taur * 
 lofe Time in deferibing that which bears the 
 Name of St Nicholas of the Lettice , which was 
 founded by the Noble Nicholas Leono , on the 
 Occafion of his being cur’d by the fandtify’d 
 Lettices that were lent to him by the Monks. 
 
 Nor that of (| S. Maria CceleJUs , which took it’s 
 Name from an Image that fell from Heaven, 
 and is enrich’d .with a precious Leg of St Lau- 
 rence , which lerves toextinguifh Fire. Nor will 
 I trouble you with an Account of Jonas’s Head, 
 
 which 
 
302 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 * The People which is kept at * Saint Apollinarish \ nor of 
 St ^ a * nt Clcuras'% Nail ; nor of the Coif at St Lau i 
 By one of the fence's ; nor of other Raraties of the lame Na- 
 Pope’s Bulls ture, ; vfhich perhaps you would look upon as 
 the Butchers Trifles, 
 have the Pri- 
 
 vilege of electing the Re&or of St Matthew And in the fame Church ’m 
 the Cuftom to make Holy Water, by keeping one of St Liberations Bones in it. 
 
 The Redemptore is a Modern Stru&ure, and ve- 
 ry confiderable ; but inferior to thofe of St George 
 and de la Salute. ’Twas built Anno 1576, on the 
 fame Occafion as that de la Salute , as it appears 
 At St John's by this Infcription : Chrifto Redemptori, Civitate 
 in Br agora, gravi peftilentid liber at a, Senatus ex Voto , Prid Non. 
 
 inTvhTchthey Se Pj- An M.D.LXXVI. Palladio was the Ar- 
 put Children^ chiteft of this Building, as well as of the beaii- 
 that are very tifiil Front of St Francis de la Vigne , and df St Lu- 
 Bek, and pre- Thefe two Churches are rich in Altars *, but 
 by certain ° W> t ^ ie f° rmer deferves the Preference in all refpe&s. 
 Signs, whe- The laft time ’twas repaired, it’s lovely Front 
 ther they will was adorn’d with feveral Figures, and particular- 
 die or recover, jy w j t fi t he -j- Statues of Mofes and St Paul in Brafs, 
 Cloak of St w ^h thefe Words under the firft , Mwiftro Uni - 
 Zachary's brarum , and under the other, Difpenfatori Lucis, 
 
 that ferves for The Chapels and Tombs are fuitable to the 
 Richnefs of the either Parts ; and the Time that 
 flood on Cha- ls ipent in vifiting em may be reckon d well 
 piters, hut employ’d. I found fo'me excellent Elogies in 
 when they be- t he Epitaphs of feveral illuftrious Perfons, who 
 famousforMi- lie I ncerr ’d in this Church •, Doges, Cardinals, 
 racles, there Patriarchs, Generals df Armies, Embafiadofs * 
 
 were But they are purely Hiftorical, and tho’ they are 
 
 Churches finely written, the^ generally want that Singu- 
 by the°Names larity of Style which is fo becoming and necefia- 
 o i Mad ona del- ry a Property of a good Epitaph. I will only 
 la Qonfolatione , 
 
 or della Fava ; & Madona de Miracoli, which >S a fine Church, &c. 
 
 f Titiani Afpetti Patavini opus. In the Frize I obferv'd thefe Words 
 Deo utriufque Templi iEdificatori ac Reparatori. 
 
 prefent 
 
Part t . to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 
 prefent you with one or two, which pleafed me 
 better than the reft. 
 
 303 
 
 Bernardus Dandulus Ant. F. Fir magrii anirhi , ojjd 
 ftta hoc loco , cum Patris ojjihus voluit rcponi *, quod 
 Elifabet Soror amantiffima effecil : ut cum iis ex qui - 
 bus femel eft ortus , longijjimd exaftd relate, iterum 
 fmul reviviftat. 
 
 M. Antonius Frevifanus * Princeps integerrimce * Doge. 
 
 1 dice, & Paternd virtute, ac gloria femper clarus ; 
 omnibus Honoribus egregie perfunftus : dPatribus , in- 
 vito ipfiusgenio, Princeps coopt at us •, cum annumRemp . He died fud- 
 fanfte gubernajjely Religionis amantiffmus , dum facro deni/ as he 
 in imaginum A'uld inter effet , nulla cegritudine , ftexis ™ as 1 - s heanng 
 ante aras genhbus, in gremio Patrum moriens^ migra- , ^ - n p ur ~ 
 vit f in Ccclum beatijfimus. M. D.LV. I. Oftobris. gat or him. 
 
 There are at Jeaft t eighteen Doges interr’d Xftftvefter 
 at |i St John and Paul’ s and a great Number of Doge, 
 fuch illuftrious Perfons as I mention’d juft now. ,696, h the* 
 I took Notice of the following Infcfiption under 109th. A 
 the Tomb that contains the Skin of the famous sreat 
 
 M. Ant . Rragadino, Governor of Fantagufta , who y ^ f ar g C an( j 
 was flay’d alive by Order of Muftapha , the Ge- fine Church; 
 neral of the Furkijh Army. but built * as 
 
 they fay, a la 
 
 Todefca ; that is, after the Gofbick Way. The Convent is alio large and 
 beautiful. It belongs to the Regular Dominicans. 
 
 Marci Antonii Bragadini , dum pro Fide & P atria, f Famagttfta. 
 hello Cyprio j- Salamine contra Fur c as conftanter , forti- * He capitu- 
 terq\ cur am principem fuftineret, longd obfidione * vifti, ^fe n a ce . 
 
 But Muftapha was fo far from obferving the Articles, that he caufed the Princi- 
 pal Officers to be mail acred, and refcrved Bragadino for a memorable In fiance 
 of his Barbarity. The Nofe and Ears of that unfortunate Governor were cut 
 off : He was loaded with Chains, and forced for fomeTime to carry a Hotte or 
 Basket in the Service of thofe who were employ’d in repairing the Fortifications 
 of the Town. At laft, after he had for a long Time fuffered all manner of In- 
 dignities, he was flay’d alive in the publick Place. He bore all thofe Torments 
 with a furprizing Courage and Refolution. The cruel Muftapha ordered his 
 Skin to be Huffed with Hay, and fent to the Arfenal of Conftantinople ; from 
 whence *twas retrieved by the Brother and Children of this illufirious Martyr 
 for his Country, after it had lain there 25 Years. Sec Ant, Mar. Gratiani, de 
 btlh Cyprio. a perjidd 
 
3°4 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 a perfidd Hoftis vianu , ipfo vivo , ac intrepide fufferente , 
 detradapellis . falutis, M. D. LXXI. XV 
 
 Kal . Septembr. Antonii Fratris opera & impensd hue 
 advebld *, <3/^? /62V ^ Marco , Hermolao , Antonioque , 
 Filiis pientiffimis, ad fummi Dei, Patrice, Paternique 
 nominis gloriam fempiternam pofita. Anno Sal 
 M.D.XCVI. XL VI. 
 
 To this Epitaph 1 will only add thofe of two 
 * The one an of your * Countrymen. 
 
 Engliih-man, 
 
 ^Sco^chman^ Odoardo Windefor, Baroni Anglo , illuftrib . Paren- 
 tibus orto ; qui dum Religionis quadam -f* abundantid , 
 t Superftition vitce probit ate, & fuavitate Morum omnibus char us, 
 
 cence^andSu- c ^ aru h ue,> v ' ltam> degeret, immaturd rnorte correpto, 
 perfiuity of celeberrimis ex e quits decor at 0 , Georgius Lewknor, 
 Religion. A finis, poni curavit. Obiit An, D* 1574. Die men f, \ 
 
 Jan . 24. AEtatisfuce 42. 
 
 Eluftri Domino Henrico Stewarto D. Aubigni fe- 
 cit ndo genito. Excellentijfmi Principis Efmei Ducis 
 Lcevinice propinquitate , & generojijfima indolepr ce- 
 dar 0 *, Hieronymus Ufton Britanniarum Re pis ad 
 Sere niff Remp. Venetam Legatus, fuaviffime Affim 
 M> M. P. 1637. Vixit anno s 17. 
 
 This Church is alfo adorned with feveral 
 Statues on Horfeback, eredted by the Senate, 
 Ls N Noll Jrfl " t0 t ^ ie ^ onour °f fotne illuftrious % Generals. 
 Pitiliani Prin- That of the famous Bartholomeo Coglioni is molt 
 ceps. Leonar- remarkable. It Hands in the open Place with- 
 dus Pratus. out ^ Church ; kis of Brafs gilt, and fup- 
 JuiTimanus ported by a fine Marble Pedeftal, with this In- 
 Patririus Ge- feription : 
 nuenfis. Hora- 
 tius Balleonius, &c. 
 
 * Bart ho- 
 
Part I. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 3°5 
 
 * Bartholomeo Coleono Bergomenfi , ob militare * Leaner 
 Imperium optiml geftum . S. C. Alberti calls 
 
 Johanne Mauro , £s? Marino Venerio Curatoribus. Capoiim\ * 
 
 &z/. 1495* alluding per- 
 
 haps to Capo 
 
 di Lione, betaufe he was very valiant. But it is more probable tna*. Urat 
 General was named Coglione, fince he gave for his Coat of Anns Coglioni ; as 
 may be ieen in Bajfo Relievo, on the Pedeital of his Statue. 
 
 -f SANCTA Maria Gloriofa is another of the + IFrari : 
 principal Churches in Venice. ’Tis large, and 
 very much embellifhed with divers Ornaments. The e are^' 
 They pretend that the Seraphick St Francis , in fome magni- 
 proper Perfon, mark’d the Place where it fhould ^ ce . nt Tombs 
 be built. I fpent two whole Afternoons in in lC ‘ 
 viewing and decyphering the Epitaphs that are 
 to be feen in it * but I only tranferib’d two of 
 them : One of a Woman, which is the only 
 Monument of that Kind I obferved there ; and 
 the other of a Doge, who is made to fpeak his 
 own Elogy. 
 
 || Me deft *e a Puteo , fcemin<e dofliffimee, qiue varios || In one of the 
 virtutis partus , X Moderate Fontis nomine , Rythmis ncar 
 
 Etrufcis [quibus memoranda cecinit ] £5? fermone con - Mirncolofa. 
 tinuo f elicit er enixa , Nature Par turn dum ederet^pu- j A borrowed 
 elU vitam , fibi vero mortem , pr oh dolor! afeivit . Name* 
 Philippus de Georgiis Petri F. in Off. fuper aqais pro 
 Ser. Dorn, publici jura defendens amqntiftimre Conjugi 
 P. Obiit An. Dora. M.D.XCII. Kal.Novembris. 
 
 Accipite , Gives ^ Francifci Fofcari veftri Ducis Ima - 
 ginem \ Ingenio , Memorid , Eloquentia : Ad h#c, Ju~ 
 ftitid , Fortitudine animi, ft nihil amplius : certe,fum- 
 morum Principum gloriam eemulari contendi. Pietati 
 trga Patriam mea fatisfeci nunquam. Maxima bella 
 
 Yol; I, X pro 
 
3°6 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage VoL I. 
 
 pro veftrd falute £s? Dignitate , Terra Marique^per an - - 
 nos plufquam triginta geffi ; fummd felicitate confeci. 
 Labentem fuffulji Italic Libertatem. Turbatores Qui- 
 etis compefcui. Brixiam , Bergamum , Ravennam , 
 Cremam , Imperio adjunxi veftro. Omnibus ornamen- 
 tis Patriam auxi . vobis part d. Italia , in tran- 
 
 quillum , foedere re daft a. Pofi tot labores exhauftos y 
 atatis An. I XXXIV. Ducatus quarto fupra trigefi - 
 tfzzmz, Salutifque , M.CCCC. LVII. Kal. Nov. ad 
 rtternam requiem commigravi. 
 
 Vos 
 
 Juftitiam C? Concordiam i 
 Quo Sempiternum hoc fit Imperium y 
 Confervate. 
 
 FRANCIS FOS CARI was depofed, or ra- 
 ther removed from his Seat of Authority and 
 Power, to that of a private Perfon in the eighty- 
 fourth Year of his Age, as not being capable of 
 performing any Function belonging to his Dogeal 
 Office; in which he had honourably acquitted him- 
 felf for the Space of thirty-four Years. In all States, 
 they depofe their Princes when they become Trai- 
 tors to their Country, and declare themlelves Ene- 
 mies inftead of N ur fin g- Fathers and Protedtors of 
 it : according to natural Equity, and the folemn 
 Oath they are obliged to take on the Day of their 
 Inftalment. They depofe alfo Fools and Mad- 
 men, fuch as Alphonfo of Portugal , Uncle to the 
 prefent King. And when they fall into an irre- 
 coverable State of Infirmity, why ffiould they 
 not exhort them to make an honourable Refigna- 
 tionof their Power ? Does a General of an Army,- 
 that’s grown old and infirm, make any Scruple 
 of religning his Poll to another ? 
 
 I shall take this Occafion toobferve, that by 
 the Epitaphs I have feen in this Place, I find that 
 
 a con- 
 
3°7 
 
 Part I. /i) ITALY. Venice* 
 
 a confiderable Number of the Perfons on whom 
 they are written, died above 80 Years old. A 
 Sign that the Air of Venice is not fo bad, as is 
 commonly reported. 
 
 The F ront of * St Mary's of Nazareth is of ve- * At the bare- 
 fy fine white Marble : *Tis a Piece of Sardi’s Ar- footed Carme - 
 chitedlurc, and extreamly magnificent, f Thofe p^ ; ? nt ,u e j 
 of St Juftina's and St Saviour's are alio very 
 much efteemed. The laft of thefe Churches is the Charge of 
 adorned with the {lately Tombs of the Doge tbe Noble 
 Francifco Verier, \Venerius ,] Catharind (| Cornaro 
 [ Cornelia ] Queen of Cyprus , the Doges Lorenzo w h 0 fe Tomb 
 and Hieronymo Priolo, the Procurator Andrea Pel- may be feen at 
 fino, and iome others. Under the little Portico Alaria del1 
 through which you defcend from the Church to , Gift 
 the Street, there is an Infcription by which it of Jacobus 
 appears, that Pope Alexander Ilf, when he was G alius as it 
 forced tc/ wander about as a Fugitive, lay hid a a PP ea E s ^ 
 whole Night in this Place, j Alexander III. Sum . ncnp 
 Pont. A. D. ii 77. hie per no 51 anti, Ecclefiam S. D. O. M. 
 Salv. confecranti , & Indiilg. concedenti. Can. Reg. ChriftoServa- 
 S. Salvat. pofuere An. 1632. Some People by way 
 of Contradiction, would fain make us believe j aco bi Galli 
 that this Pope never hid himfelf in Venice •, but pietatem 
 certainly, either they are ignorant of theHiflory, t ^ ablt . ur . 
 or elfe difguife the Truth of a Thing which is ^ 
 undeniable. ^Eterna'm 
 
 hujus Frontis 
 
 incruftationem, a JacoBo Gallc> legatam, Marinus Mofchcnius P. C. 
 M.DC.LXXIII. 
 
 || She let up the Standard of Venice at Famagujla , and refigned her Kingdom 
 to the Republick, An . 1 487. But the Duke of fosvpmuft be heard upon that 
 Relignation. 
 
 J Upon the Wall, on the left hand as you go down. 
 
 I liked much the great Altar of Stjujlina 
 with the Tabernacle. The devout Adorers of 
 that Saint are always careful to vifit the Scone 
 where ihe left the Print of her Knees, whea fne 
 
 X x faid 
 
3o3 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 faid her lafl Prayer before her Martyrdom, as 
 
 * Traditum the Story is related in an * Infcription beneath 
 eft nobis ab an- ^ Stone . 
 tiquis indubia 
 fucceftione, 
 
 hanc efle illam petram in qua Juftina virgo impreffit veftigium genuflexionis 
 fuae fadtae pro oratione habita ante martyrium, quam hie reponi fecimus ad 
 fidelium devotionem. 
 
 Those who chufe the huge St Chriftopher for 
 their Patron, have an extraordinary Veneration 
 for a Statue of that Saint, which is to be feen in 
 the Church of St Marla dell horto , on the great 
 f Gafpar Mo- Altar. ’Twas made by an excellent f Sculptor, 
 ranzone. according to the Proportion of a Bone of the 
 
 An. 1470. Original, which was || heretofore brought from 
 
 || The Front of England , by a very curious Perfon who was a 
 tnis - “ ! s nice Judge of Relicks. So that a devout Spec- 
 Marble 7 nd tator ^ as t ^ ie Pl ea f ure to behold the exadt Di- 
 not meanly menfions of that Saint *, and this Confideration 
 adorned. , has fo enhanced the Value of the Statue, that 
 thofe who have moft Experience in Affairs of 
 this Nature, are confident, that it will quickly 
 begin to work Miracles. In the fame Church 
 
 O 
 
 they take particular Notice of the Magnificent 
 X There are % Chapel of the Family of Contarini , and the 
 lome Bufts m ^ Maufoleum of Count Hieronymo Cavazza , whom 
 ofA/ex* Fifio- * Occafion to mention before. 
 ria. ' I have gone many Times on purpofe to 4 - St 
 
 § Of the Ar- Luke's to fee the Tomb of the famous Peter Aretin , 
 chitedture of C0U \ L \ never find the Church open, neither 
 
 Vt?s faid" this th e Man t0 °P en Though that fatyrical Poet 
 Church hands deferved to have been made the Subjedt of a 
 in the midft of Satyr, I can hardly give Credit to what I have 
 Venice. heard affirmed, that the biting Epigram that 
 was made againii him is placed as an Epitaph on 
 his Tomb. However, you will perhaps read it 
 with Pleafure both in the Original, and as it is 
 tranflated into French and Italian . 
 
 Condit 
 
Parti. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 3°9 
 
 ( 
 
 Condit Aretini cineres lapis ifte fepultos , 
 
 Mortales atro qui fale perfricuit. 
 hit aft us Deus eft illi : caujamque rogatus , 
 
 Hanc dedit ; Lie , inquit, non mihi notus erat 
 
 Le temps par qui tout fe confume. 
 
 Sous cette pierre d mis le corps 
 De ! Aretin, de qui la plume 
 Bleffa les Vivans & les Morts. 
 
 Son Encre noircit la memoir e 
 Des Monarques de qui la gloire 
 Efl vivante apres le trepas : 
 
 Et s'il n' a pas contre Dieu mefme 
 Vomi quelque horrible blafpheme , 
 
 Ceft qu'il ne le connoiffoit pas . 
 
 See what Mr 
 Bayle has faid 
 of this Epi- 
 taph in his 
 . Dictionary 
 under the Ar- 
 ticle of Pierre 
 Aretin. 
 
 f He was 
 called the 
 Scourge of 
 Princes. 
 
 Quigiace l 9 Aretin Poeta || Tofco, H He was a 
 
 Che d' ogn ' un dijje malo , fuor di Dio ; Native of 
 
 Scufandofi col dir ' Io no' l conofco . Arezzo . 
 
 In Englifh it may be exprefs’d thus ; 
 
 Here Ties a Man , who no Man fpar'd. 
 
 When th ' angry Fit was on him . 
 
 Nor God himfelf had better far'd. 
 
 If Aretin bad known him . 
 
 Another Rhymer has had the fame Thought 
 in the Biggarures or the ‘Touches of the Sieur 
 Des Accords . 
 
 Biffot rempli de Medifance 
 Parle mal de tons, en tout lieu 
 Et s'il ne medit pas de Dieu , 
 Ceft qu'il n'en a la connoijfance . 
 
 x 3 
 
 I HOPE 
 
3io 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol. I. - 
 
 I hope this Letter will make amends for my 
 late Negledd, which I acknowledged was the Ef- 
 fect of my Lazinefs ^ and that, I am fare, is one 
 of the moft pardonable Faults in a Traveller. 
 They would laugh at me here, if they knew how 
 i unmethodically I dilcourfe of their Sacred Places, 
 feeing me fkipping fo often from one End of the 
 Town to the other. I rnuft confefs, I have ab- 
 ler ved no other Order than that of my journal \ 
 and that I think is fufficient for the Ufe you will 
 make of it. 
 
 I could eafily reckon up a vaft Number of 
 See the In- fine Paintings, with which the Churches are 
 Traveler ^at* adorned *, but I know not whether you would 
 the End of the ^ ave Patience to read fueh a dry Catalogue, 
 
 fecond Vo- Nor will I undertake to give you an Account of 
 }ume. thofe half (acred Places, which are here called 
 
 Scuole. Theft are publick Edifices divided into 
 Chapels, Halls, Chambers, and Lodgings, which 
 belong to Fraternities of Monks, or fome other 
 particular Societies. I have' Teen at leaft thirty five 
 of ’em, and I doubt not but that there are more. 
 
 • j.OfSt Among the reft there are * fix, called Scuole 
 Mark , adjoin- grandly which are embellilhed with fo much Art 
 ing to the ^ an d Coft, that they may vie with the fineft 
 y)Z C ^dPall Churches, both in the Richnefs and Beauty of 
 Hot Mercy,' their Ornaments. 
 
 in the Quarter 
 
 of the Canal regio. 3. Of St John the Evangelift, in the Quarter of St 
 j Paul. 4. Of Charity, in the Quarter of Dcrfo duro. 5. Of St Roch, in 
 the Quarter of St Paul. 6 . Of St Theodore , in the Quarter of St Mark . 
 The firit and the fifth are moft confiderable. 
 
 In many Churches and Fraternities there are 
 Annual Funds eftablifhed to raife Portions, and 
 procure comfortable Matches for poor Maids. 
 And generally over all Italy Care is taken by 
 fuch charitable Foundations, to provide for the 
 Necelfities of the Sex. 
 
 After 
 
3H 
 
 Parti. VITALY. Venice. 
 
 After I have given you my Obiervations on 
 the Chriltian Churches, you will perhaps expedt 
 an Account of the Jewifh Synagogues. But all 
 that I can fay on this Subjedt, is that there, are 
 leven of them inclofed in * two f Ghetti , and 
 that the bed of the feven is not near fo fine as is 
 the Portuguefe Synagogue in London . There is a 
 German one. 
 
 * The Old 
 and the New. 
 rf- So the Ita- 
 lians call thole 
 Quarters or 
 Wards of the 
 
 Cities, where the Jews are fiiut in, every Night. 
 
 If we give Credit to the vulgar Computation, 
 there are about two thoufand X Jews at Venice, t There are 
 Some of them are rich, but few in Companfon iomcnc ^^C 
 to the poor. 1 hey are obliged to wear || red \\^ but the 
 Hats. But I find, by Martinelli in his Ritratto , Germans are 
 that they may be exempt from that diiagreeable P 0 ^- 
 Diftindtion, by paying a fmall Sum of Money. J re 
 They have a Sort of Court that -determines petty V ered with 
 Suits among themfelves. They are generally Scarlet Cloth, 
 a Sort of People that never refufe any Kind £ ut the y 
 of Employment, and are made Ufe of on feve- ne ath. U l ^ 
 ral Occafions ; efpecially by the Nobles, who 
 are a very great Support to them. They may 
 take the Degree of Dodtors in Medicine at Pa- 
 dua , and pradtife Phyfick any where in the City 
 and State of Venice . 
 
 This is all that you muft expedt at prefent 
 concerning the famous City of Venice . I am. 
 
 Venice, April 16. 
 1 688. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 Tour , &c. 
 
 I had almoft forgot to fatisfy your Curio- 
 fit y, concerning the Article that relates to our 
 
 X 4 Friend, 
 
3 is 
 
 Venice. A New Voyage Vol.L. 
 
 Friend, and which you have expreffied fo ear- 
 ned: a Defire to have explained. As you know 
 him to be of a free Temper, plain, and without 
 Artifice in all his Ways ; a profeffied Enemy to 
 all Sorts of Farces , as we fay in French: And in- 
 deed very little, or not at all inclinable to fub- 
 mit himfelf to any capricious Cuftoms of Man- 
 kind *, fo you greatly defire to know whether he 
 complies with that of wearing a Mask, and 
 mingling himfelf, in a difguis’d Habit among 
 that Croud of Fools, that fill the Place St Mark , 
 and the Boxes in the Theatres : A Tning, fay 
 you, which would be impoffible for you to do ”, 
 and which you cannot approve of, any more 
 than you do of any Sort of Difguife what- 
 fpever. 
 
 The firft Thing then that I have to fay, is, 
 that our Friend whom you mentioned, fome 
 times wears a Mask : So, you have that Point 
 cleared at firft, in few Words ; a Rome comme a 
 Rome , fays he, a Venife comme a Venife for thefe 
 Sorts of Things : 
 
 Cum fueris Rome e Romano vivito more : 
 
 Cum fueris alibi, Vivito ficut ibi. 
 
 But without endeavouring to make any Apology, 
 here, for thole that think it proper to conform 
 themfelves to the general Cuftom, during the 
 Carnaval, of wearing a Mask ; you ought in the 
 firft Place to take Notice, that it is impoffible to 
 be admitted either unto the Balls , or in thei^i- 
 dotti ; or in feveral other Places where there 
 are certain Affemblies, and honeft Companies, 
 without being masked : So that whoever has a 
 
 Mind to be informed by his own Eyes, of what 
 
 is 
 
3*3 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Venice. 
 
 is tranfadted in thofe Places, were he as grave 
 as Cato , muft of Necefiity be oblig’d to wear a 
 Mask. There are alfo a great many other 
 Things, about which one loves to fatisfy his 
 Curiofity, without being known ; tho* they are 
 very lawful in themfelves. But in the fecond 
 Place, I fhall alfo fay, that you feem to me to 
 be too fevere, in declaring your felf fo pofi- 
 tively againft all Manner of Difguifes ; fince 
 there is one Sort of Diffimulation that differs 
 in nothing from true Prudence : There is an 
 honed: Artifice, that agrees certainly very well 
 with Probity. But give me Leave, 1 befeech 
 you, to tell you, that you your felf go mask'd 
 every Day, without any Defign, or perhaps 
 without thinking of it. Is not the World a 
 Theatre ? A Place St Mark in which every Man 
 Js oblig’d to adt his Part, very often with forc’d 
 Complaifance ? Pray, what is the Meaning 
 that your Houfe at * * * * is fo handfomely 
 furnilli’d, and curioufly adorn’d ? To what pur- 
 pofe ferves that Galloon, and thofe green, 
 white, and red Liveries, with which you cloath 
 fome of your Servants? What fignifies that 
 Perriwig, whofe Length and Powder are fo 
 troublefome ? And what have you, who are a 
 peaceful Man, to do, to wear that Iron hang- 
 ing at your Side, and which, perhaps, may 
 prove dangerous ? All this, believe me, is no- 
 thing elle but Mask : Art, and Dexterity, to 
 
 impofe upon People, and to create in their 
 Mind Notions commonly Falfe. Do you think 
 that an Anchorite, that has bid Adieu to the 
 World for ever, would amufe himfelf with 
 fuch Ways of Adting, altogether expenfive and 
 incommodious? No, Sir; but we fail with the 
 Wind ; we follow fuch Cuftoms, as a Cork 
 
 goes 
 
314 Venice. A New Voyage , &c. Vol. I. 
 
 goes up and down upon your River, accord- 
 ing to the Tide. Sometimes a Monk’s Habit, 
 and fometimes an embroider’d Cloth j not for 
 the Conveniency only, and Pleafure of Life *, 
 but for Security. I fay Security \ for Men are, 
 indeed, much more refpe<5ted in this World, 
 this vaft Piazza of San-Marco , according to 
 their Equipage, than to their Merit. I know a 
 Gentlewoman in London [let me tell you that 
 by the bye] who had her Life faved by the Wa- 
 termen, the Boat having been over-fet, becaufe 
 they perceived fhe had fine Silk-Stockings : they 
 ran to her, neglecting the others. You evident- 
 ly fee that thofe Stockings were Masks , and 
 that it was by them fhe was delivered. Par- 
 don us then, I befeech you, if we fhould happen 
 now and then, to wear fome Polifh Drefs, with 
 a black or white Nofe, which ferves as a Surtout 
 to our own, during our Pilgrimage in Venice \ 
 where fuch innocent Drefs is as neceffary, upon, 
 certain Occafions, as a fhort Leather Mantle 
 charged with Shells, and a Staff, are to the good 
 Pilgrims that are travelling to St James of 
 Comgofiella . 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 T HERE is not any Thing worth Obfer- 
 vation between Padua and Rovigo , only that 
 the Country is even and fruitful, watered with fe- 
 veral Rivers, and pretty well cultivated. It is 
 every where full of Meadows, Groves, Vineyards, 
 
 and 
 
Part I. ROVIGO, Ferrara. 315 
 
 and well-tillM Spots of Ground. The Venetians 
 have there fome Houfesol pleafure *, but the com- 
 mon Habitations, when you draw near to Rovigo, 
 are moldy Hutts made of Reeds, which a Fire 
 would reduce to Allies in a very fhort time *, yet 
 are they as merry as if they liv’d in Palaces, and 
 it may be more. We frequently obferv’d ieveral 
 of thofe Country-people in Mafquerade, com- 
 ing but of thofe Cabins, and dancing Gambols 
 to the Tunes of the Violin and Bagpipe. Thefe 
 ruftick Diverfions perhaps are to be preferred 
 before the famous Confufion of Venice . 
 
 ROVIGO is a poor little Town encompafs’d ROVIGO. 
 with a ruinous Wall : Yet it is the Refidence of 
 the Bifhop of Adria: that ancient and famous City, 
 which gave it’s Name to the Gulph, being now 
 but a pitiful hall-drowned Village. 
 
 W e met in the Evening, a curious German 
 Traveller, who could not forbear taking a View 
 of the Ruines of that formerly fo renowned 
 Place *, efpecially for it’s generous Wines. But 
 the belt Thing he brought from it, was it’s 
 Epitaph. 
 
 Laudatam tentas Hadriam luftrare , Viator l 
 Sed tumulata jacet , propriifque fepulta minis : 
 
 Heu fuit ! Cf tantiim fuperejt informe Cadaver : 
 
 Ergo, Viator, abi \ cogitaque quod Ipfe jacebis. 
 
 Ferrara is very large, and pretty handfome *, 
 but ill peopled. Some fay it was called Ferrara, 
 quafi, fere aurea , becaufe of it’s rich Trade: But 
 at prefent it is fo poor and defolatc, that it can- 
 not be view’d without Compaffion. In a Place 
 where Four very large Streets meet, we flopp’d 
 a while, without perceiving any one Perfon in 
 any of them : and they commonly fay, that 
 Earthquake, and was almoft all deftroyed 
 
 that 
 
 FERRARA. 
 
 In the Year 
 1570. in t! 
 fpace of For* 
 Hours, Ferrar 
 iuffered One 
 hundred a 1 
 fixty jolts c 
 . Scbradtrtn 
 
*i6 Ferrara. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 that City has more Woufes than Inhabitants. 
 Neverthelefs, the Territory of Ferrara is one of 
 the bed Parts of Lombardy ; it is a plain and fat 
 Country, which wants nothing but Tillage •, 
 which is look’d upon as an Effedt of the Hard- 
 nefs of the Government. For every Place that 
 falls into the Pope’s Hands, becomes immedi- 
 ately miferable. 
 
 Servierant tibi , Roma , prius Domini Dominorum : 
 
 Servorum Servi tibi funt jam , Roma , Lyranni, 
 
 These Princes are ufually old, and confe- 
 quently are forc’d to do a great deal of Work in 
 a little time to enrich their Families : And they 
 rarely confider, what may become of the Eftate 
 * About the a f ter t h e i r Death. When Ferrara was firft * united 
 Year^qc^ t0 t ^ ie Ftaly See, under the Pontificate of Cle- 
 the Duchy of went VIII, that Pope built aftrong-f- Citadel in 
 Ferrara re- it, which is ftill in good Order : But the other For- 
 
 Hol^See the t ^ cat ^ ons are < I u ^ te negledted. The ancient U- 
 Male Race of n ^ ver ^ c Y °f Ferrara is at prefent reduced to a 
 the Dukes be- poor College of the Jefuits . 
 ing Extinft. 
 
 Alfonfo was the laft legitimate Son of the Houfe of EJte. 
 
 f Du V al the Geographer, writes. That this Citadel coil Two Millions 
 cf Crowns of Gold. 
 
 Over- ag a inst the Church there are two Sta- 
 tues of Brafs on Horfe-back •, one of which was 
 f Borji^s or ere £f e d i n Honour of the good Duke || Borfo . All 
 in whole faV t ^ ie Ground for twenty Paces round was for- 
 vourPopePaul merly a Place of Refuge, or Sandluary for Cri- 
 II, ereded the minals ; and the Conditions of this Privilege 
 ^rrlr/Tnto°a wei > e wr i tten on the Pedeftal of the Statue. But 
 Duchy. Borfo ^ nce the City became Subjedt to the Pope, this 
 was one of the Statue has loft it’s Immunities ; and they have e~ 
 molt virtuous ven encroached fo far on this priviledged Ground, 
 Pnnces of his t ^ t £ h e p ec j e ft a i enters into the Buildings that 
 
 are 
 
Parti. ITALY. Ferrara. 317 
 
 are eredled behind it. However, to make a- 
 mends, there is another * Sanctuary of the fame * Thefe San- 
 Extent about the f fine Column that fupports ^ uarie ^ are 
 the Statue of Alexander VII. The other Statue 
 on Horfe-back reprefen ts Nicolas , Marquefs of wretched Cri- 
 Efte , who is ftyl’d in the Infcription, Fer Pa- minal cou> d 
 CIS Auttor. not avoid pe- 
 
 They carry’d us to the Ducal Palace, to the place S of n Re- 
 Marquels de Villa's Houfe, to the Cathedral, and fuge it felf. 
 to feveral other Churches and Convents. But *t * n th e midft 
 tho* every one of thefe Places deferves to be p[^ arSe open 
 taken notice of at Ferrara , I believe you would 
 not take much Pleafure in reading a Defcription 
 of ’em. 
 
 I must not forget to fend you the Epitaph of 
 poor Ariofto^ whofe Tomb they have lately re- 
 paired in the Church of the Benedictines. 
 
 Not us & Hefperits jacet hie Areojlus £5? Indis, 
 
 Cui Mufa (Eternum nomen Hetrufca dedit. 
 
 Seu Satyram in Vitio exacuit , feu Comica lufit , 
 
 Sen cecinit grandi hella Ducejque tuba. 
 
 Fer fummus Nates , cui fummi in vertice Pindi 
 Fergemind licuit cingere fronde comas. 
 
 They carried us alfo to the Opera, where 
 we faw nothing extraordinary. The principal 
 A&refs was a pretty little Songftrefs, about 
 Twelve or Thirteen Years old •, who that very 
 Day was to make her firft Eflay on the Thea- 
 tre •, and according to common Report, was 
 that Evening to enter into the private Service 
 of one of the principal Gentlemen of the City. 
 
 All the chief Boxes were fill’d with Jefuits , and 
 fuch People. 
 
 *Tis 
 
3 1 B Ravenna. A New Voyage Vol 1 . 
 
 ’Tis fifty Miles from Ferrara to Ravenna : The 
 RAVENNA. Co Untr y is pleafmt and fertile for the fir ft Day’s 
 r/ldus writes. Journey ; but afterwards becomes low, and full 
 of Water, between the feveral Branches of the 
 Adige and the Po. The Towns and Villages 
 which we faw on the Road, defer ve not to be 
 mentioned. Ravenna is but half as big as Fer- 
 rara ; yet it appears at a great Diftance, being 
 where they are fituated in a plain and open Country. You are 
 dTaTnorfe * not ig noranI h that the ancient Geographers fe- 
 Headds, that prefent it’s Situation almoft like to that ofVe- 
 the City of nice, upon Piles in the midft of Waters. And 
 Ravenna took » t j s k n0W n 5 that this was formerly * the Princi- 
 pal Haven which the Romans had on the Adria - 
 tick Gulph : But this Place has fuffer’d great 
 Alterations fince thofe Times ; for not only the 
 up, but the Sea is alfo retired 
 
 that on the 
 Day of St A - 
 pollinarius all 
 the Ravens in 
 Italy meet at 
 Ravenna , 
 
 it’s Name from 
 this Cuitom, 
 RAB in the 
 German Lan- 
 guage fignify- 
 
 Lagitnes are dried 
 
 Thish one^of three Miles from it ; and thefe Plains, that were 
 the moft ridi- formerly drowned , are at prefent the moft fruit- 
 culous Fables f u \ Fields in Italy. It is not to be doubted 
 
 invented 1 ; arid h ut th e prefent Ravenna is the Ravenna of the* 
 befides, this Ancients, as it appears evidently from feveral 
 City was cal- ancient Monuments : But that the Sea did ever 
 led. Ravenna come U p as high as the Walls of the City, ac- 
 man Language cording to the common Opinion, is a Mat- 
 was fpoken. I ter ofFadt that I don’t believe : And thofe Rings 
 was inform’d, Q f Iron which ferved formerly, as they fay, to 
 hj a Lea d necl fallen the VelTels, methinks, they only prove at 
 venna , that the beit, that fome Barks might come up thi- 
 he had found ther, through a Canal ; for large V effels are 
 the fame Story never faflen’d after that manner, 
 m lome Au- This City hath been fo often ruined by the 
 Wars, that there are but few Marks left of it’s 
 firft Antiquity : It is at prefent poorly built, and 
 very thinly peopled, as well as Ferrara \ never- 
 theless, I found in it fome Things not unwor- 
 
 thors who 
 wrote before 
 Giraldus . 
 
 * Claflem 
 Myfeni, alte- 
 ram Ravennae 
 adtutelam 
 
 Super i & Inferi Maris. 
 
 Suet, in Ottav. 49. 
 
Part I. VITALY. Ravenna. 3 19 
 
 thy of Obfervation. That Circumftance alone, 
 of the wonderful Change which hath happen’d 
 in it’s Situation is, in my Opinion, a fufficient 
 Reafon fora curious Traveller to give it a Vifit 
 by the Way 
 
 W 1 t h o u t the Walls , near the ancient Haven , 
 there is a Mau f oleum ^ which Amalafuntha eredted 
 for her Father Theodorick , King of the Oftrogoths, 
 who kept his Refidence at Ravenna. They have 
 turned this Building into a little Church, which 
 they call the Rolonda. The moft remark- 
 able Thing about it, is that large and weighty The Stone is 
 Stone, hollowed, or made concave in a Sort of not bor’d thro* 
 a flat Cupola, with which this Church is co- as 
 
 ver’d. I meafured this Stone, and found it to written> 
 b$ thirty eight Foot in Diameter, and fifteen in fay a t Raven- 
 Thicknefs. The Tomb of Theodoric was on the na, that it 
 Top, in the midfl: of that little Dome, between ™ eigh * a ^ ov ? 
 the Statues of the Twelve Apoftles, which were thousand 1 K 
 placed on the Sides round about, Thefe Statues Pounds, 
 were broken down during the laft Wars of Louis 
 XII, and the Tomb which is of Porphyry , was 
 alfo overthrown : But they have fet it fince in 
 the Wall of an ancient Palace in the City 
 where we faw it. After that Prince had put 
 Boetius and Symmacbus to Death, as the Pried 
 that conducted us, told us, he wasfo continually 
 frighten’d by their Ghofts, that he fled to the 
 other World to avoid ’em *, but that his Tomb, 
 as well as his Bones, have been wandering fince 
 that Time. 
 
 The Cathedral is an old Church, the Nave 
 or Body of which is fupported by fifty fix Pil- 
 lars of Marble, of the Archipelago *, which make 
 a double Row on each Side. The Choir is 
 vaulted with a fine Mofatck *, and there they 
 keep in great Veneration , one of the Stones 
 with which Saint Stephen was ftoned to Death. 
 
320 
 
 Pliny makes 
 me: tion of a 
 Statue of Ju- 
 piter, and a- 
 nother of 'Ju- 
 no, that were a boutS is fo 
 made of Viiie 
 Tree. 
 
 Ravenna. A New Voyage Vol. h 
 
 But the greateft Curiofity in this Church is the 
 great Door, which is made of Planks of Vines, 
 fome of v/hich are twelve Foot high, and four- 
 teen or fifteen Inches broad. The Ground here- 
 agreeable to the Vines, even in that 
 very Place which the Sea formerly covered, ac- 
 cording to the general Opinion, that it makes 
 them grow prodigioufly big. I have read, if I 
 remember, in the Travels of Olearius , that he 
 found near the Cafpian Sea, the Bodies of Vines 
 of the Thicknefs of a Man. 
 
 They fhew in the Church of the Pheatines , a 
 little Window above the great Altar, in the midft 
 of which is the Figure of a white Pigeon, which 
 is placed there for a Memorial, that after the 
 Death of St Apollinarius , firft Bifhop of Raven- 
 fia , the Pi lefts being aflfembled to choofe his Suc- 
 ceffor, the Holy Ghcft, as they fay, came in 
 at that Window in the Shape of a Dove, and 
 perch’d upon him, who was to be eledted : They 
 add, that the fame thing happen’d Eleven times 
 after, fuccellively ; but fmce that time, they 
 have done their Bufinefs without fupernatural 
 Afliftance. Platina after Eufebius , tells the like 
 Story of the Election of Pope Fabian , or rather 
 of Fabian Bifhop of Rome . 
 
 There are very fine Pieces of Marble and 
 Porphyry in the Churches of St Vitalis , St Apollh 
 narius , St Romoaldus, and St Andrew which 
 were brought from Greece , and probably during 
 the Time of the * Exarchate, 
 chafe^com^r The Tomb of Galla Placidia ■f, Sifter to the 
 LndedXS- Emperors Arcadius and Honorius , is in the Church 
 
 na, Bo Ionia, of J 
 
 Into la. Fay - 
 
 ence, Forli , Cejena, Bobia, Ferara , and Adria. The Exarch? or Governor, 
 fent by the Emperor of the Eaji, kept his ReJfidence at Ravenna. There have 
 been eighteen in all. The firft call’d Longinus, was fent by the Emperor Jufti- 
 nus , Anno ^67 ; and Euty chius was the laft, about the Year 728. 
 
 f And Daughter to Fbeodofus the Great. There is another Tomb of this 
 Princefs in the Church of St A quilt n at Milan . 
 
 
 
Part I. to 1 T A L Y. Ravenna; 321. 
 
 of Saint Celfus , between thofe of Valentinian and 
 Hcnorius . They affur’d us, that this is a very 
 fine Monument *, but we could not fee it, be- 
 caufe he who had the Key was abfent. We faw 
 the Tomb of the Poet * Dantes , in the Cloy- * Dante Da- 
 Her of the Conventual Francifcans . I tranfcrib’d a 
 
 the Epitaph, principally for the Curiofity of the MaTof *Qga- 
 Rhimes, which is as follows : lity and great 
 
 Merit, died in 
 
 Exile at Ravenna , in the Year 17 21, and the fifty fixth Year cf his Age. He 
 was banilh’d becaufe he Tided with the Gitbelins, 
 
 Jura Monarchist Super os y Phlegetona , Lacufque , 
 Luftrando cecini , voluerunt Fata quoufque ; 
 
 Sed quia pars cejfit meliorihus hofpita caftris y 
 Fattoremque fuum petiit felicior aftris : 
 
 Hie claudor Dantes , Patriis extorris ab cris f 
 Quern genuit parvi Florentia mater amoris . 
 
 Another which was added when Cardinal Beth* 
 ho repair’d this Monument* 
 
 Exigui Tumuli Danthes Kc forte jacebasy 
 Squallenti nulli cognite pene Jitu . 
 
 At nunc marmoreo fuhnixus conderis arcUy 
 Omnibus £s? cultu fplendidiore nites . 
 Nimirum ^ Bembus Mufis incenfus Hetrufcis^ 
 Hoc tibiy quem in primishs cohere , dediti 
 
 -f Peter Bern- 
 bo^ a Noble 
 Venetian, and 
 a Cardinal : 
 
 There is in the grand Place a very fair Brazen A Man of 
 Statue of Pope Alexander VII. And you may Learning and 
 fee at the other End of the fame Place * two Co- sreat Meric ‘ 
 Iumns, upon which were the ancient Patron, and 
 the Arms of Venice , while Ravenna belong’d to 
 that State *, it being their Cuftom to ere6t the like 
 Columns in all the Cities of their Demefnes : But 
 the Pope has plac’d on t!ie fame Pillars, the Sta- 
 tues of St Victor, and St ApollinariuSy who are 
 the Patrons of Ravenna. They made us obferve* 
 near this Place, under a Portico, the Gates of 
 Vol. L ¥ Rrajs$ 
 
$22 
 
 Cervia, Cesenate.' Vol. I. 
 
 Brafs, and fome other Spoils which thofe of Ra- 
 * The Eafter- venna took from Pavia : and which they preferve 
 r 7; II H;P r * for a Memorial of the happy Succefs of that Ex- 
 Tomb.withan pedition. 
 
 Epitaph, is to RAVENNA has never been able to repair the 
 Church^o/st ^°^ es k fuffer’d by the Forces of Lewis XII. At 
 Martha, at p r efent there is nothing to be fee n, but the mife- 
 Milan. ’ The rable Remainders of it’s former Glory. Three 
 Eaftions of the Miles from the Town, Hands the Monument that 
 L “upardis ^n- was ere( k ec * for the young and brave Gaft on de Foix , 
 dcf Pope 4 Duke of Nemours , Nephew to King Lewis XII, 
 Leo X, have and General of his Armies ; who was * kill’d in 
 been very fa- £ hi s p] a ce after he had gain’d the Battle. There 
 Xenna are no Foot-fteps left of the Amphitheatre which 
 f This was a was built by tfheodoric ; nor of the ancient Aque- 
 retiring Place du£t mentioned by Blondus . 
 of the Bandits ^ good Hour from Ravenna we entered into 
 Pontificate of a f Foreft of Pines, which is Four Miles long, 
 Sixtus V. and whofe Pine-Apples, they told us, are di- 
 CE R V I A, ftributed all over Italy . The Sea is not far off, 
 on the Left-Hand •, and on the Right, are thofe 
 Marfhes, which reach out of Sight towards the 
 Apennine. After we had paffed the River Savio in 
 a Ferry-boat , we went thro’ the little City of Cer - 
 
 a poor little 
 T own and Bi- 
 fhoprick. 
 
 See the Infra- 
 ctions to a 
 
 th^End^f this which is in the midft of a. boggy Country, 
 where they hardly make any thing but Salt. We 
 ftopt to dine at Cefenate , on the Sea-fide ; and 
 Three Miles from thence we found ourfeJves on 
 the Banks of the || Rubicon , which they alfo call 
 § Pifatello. Our Coach forded that famous Brook \ 
 which I knew from Lucan to be no great River. 
 
 Fonte cadit medico , parvifque impellitur undis . 
 
 An Flour after we took our Way by the Sea- 
 fide. The Sand is firm and even, without any 
 Rocks or Shells. We pur fil’d this Way till we 
 came within a Mile of Rimini *, where we were 
 
 Book. 
 
 CESENATE, 
 || See the Sup- 
 plement, and 
 the Infra- 
 ctions to a 
 Traveller. 
 
 § Others fay 
 this is the 
 Frumicino, a- 
 bout two hun- 
 dred Paces 
 from the Pifa- 
 tello. 
 
 oblig’d 
 
 to quit the Coaft, that we 
 
 might 
 
 pais 
 
 the 
 
Part I. Ariminum, or RiminL 323’ 
 
 the River formerly called Ariminum , which has 
 the fame Name with the City whofe Walls it 
 wafhes : But at prefent it bears the Name of 
 
 Mare chia. 
 
 RIMINI is a little poor City ; yet the Soil is R im I NI. 
 rich, and well till’d. It was fortify’d by Sigif- This City is 
 mund Pandolphus Malatefta ; but at prefent it has 4 8 5 Years ol- 
 onlyaWall, and that in no good Condition. we 
 
 You know the Malateftas were formerly Lords believe a great 
 of feveral Places in this Province. The Bridge many Writers; 
 of Marble, on which there are two very entire 
 Infcriptions, by which it appears, that it was i on y 266 Years 
 built by Auguftus and Tiberius ; and the Trium- before the 
 phal-Arch eredled by Auguftus , are the two Prin- Birtho tchrijl. 
 cipal Monuments of this City: There are alfo to Il: r ^ k a Seethe 
 be feen, fome fmall Ruins of an Amphitheatre, inftruftions, 
 behind the Garden of the Capuchins . And five &c. 
 
 hundred Paces farther, without the City, there 
 is a Tower of Brick, which was, fay they, the 
 Pharos of the ancient Haven but the Sea is fal- 
 len back half a Mile from this Place, and the 
 Pharos is at prefent encompafied with Gardens. 
 
 P. Malatefta finifhed the Deftrudtion of the Har- 
 bour, which was once accounted one of the fineft 
 in Italy , to build the Church of St Francis , with 
 the Pieces of Marble which he took from thence. 
 
 This Church, if it were finifh’d, might pafs 
 for a fine Strudture. There they keep a Noftre - 
 dame , which ferves for nothing but to bring Rain, 
 or flop it, when there is either too little or too 
 much-, ’tis her only Ufe. 
 
 The Library of the Count de Gambalonga is 
 very numerous but there are no Rarities in it, 
 if we may give credit to him who fhewed it to * 
 us. They made us obferve, in the Midft of the no ^ true/^tis 
 Market-place, a Kind of * Marble-pedeftal, on at leaft pro- 
 which thefe Words are Engraved : Caius Ccefar bable, 
 
 Dili. Rubicone Juperato civili bell Commilit. fuos hie 
 Y % in 
 
CATHOLI 
 
 CA. 
 
 A1 Lido del 
 
 324 Catholica, S. Marino, Pesaro. Vol. 1 . 
 
 inforo Ar. adlocutus. The Statue of Paul V, in 
 Brafs, is in another open Place ; and near to 
 that a Marble Fountain of good Workman- 
 fhip. 
 
 Departing from Rimini , we travelPd on the 
 Downs for fifteen Miles, between the Sea and 
 the Fields. I obferv’d, as we palled thro’ the 
 Village Catholic a , over the Gate of the great 
 Church, an Infcription, which fays, That a 
 Mare, efl'endo Council of Bifhops, who were almoflall Arians^ 
 la Marina being afTembled at Rimini , in the Year 359, the 
 
 acevole & ic ve” Orthodox perform’d their Devotions in this Vil~ 
 donTle mura lage, which has ever fince bore the Name of Ca~ 
 con le fommi- tholica. You know the Hiftory of this Council, 
 ta delle Torn ma y b e p r0 perly fo call’d. 
 
 Ten or Twelve Miles from thence, towards 
 Conca gia the Apennine , you may perceive the little Town 
 and Republic of St Marino on the Top of a 
 Mountain, at the Foot of which are the Limits 
 of that State. This little State has maintained 
 it felf very happily for feveral Ages : Becaufe, 
 being always obedient to the Will of the Pope, 
 within whofe Territories it is fituated ; ’tis nei- 
 ther expofed to the Envy nor Jealoufy of his 
 Holineis, nor of any other. It is about fix or 
 feven Miles from Catholica to Refaro. All this 
 Country is flrewed with pleafant Houfes, and ve- 
 ry well cultivated. 
 
 PESARO. PESARO is larger, better built, neater and 
 Col. Rom. pleafanter than Rimini : It’s Situation is upon a 
 
 A* Biiho nek* Afcent, which makes the Air purer and 
 
 TheAir P of f reer : Nothing can be more pleafant than the little 
 Pefaro is good Hills that furround it, which form a charming 
 in Winter, but Mixture of Paftures, Vineyards, and Orchards: 
 mi ind U ex- 0 ^ ves are admirable •, but the Figs arebet- 
 treamly dan- ter , and more efteem’d than all the other Fruits. 
 
 gcrous in July The Figs of Re faro are famous over all Italy . The 
 
 and Augult. 
 
 i he Dukes of JJrbin kept their Refidence here in the Winter. 
 
 beft 
 
 Sc a’altri edi 
 jfici della citta 
 cLi 
 
 mol to tempo 
 da’l Marfom- 
 merfa. L. Alb. 
 
325 
 
 Parti. Pesaro, Fano. 
 
 bed Meat cods not above three Bayoques , the 
 Pound, which weighs eighteen Ounces ; that is 
 fomewhat lefs than two Farthings. The Bread 
 and the Wine are proportionably cheaper ; and 
 lb of the red. The Sea and the Rivers furnifh 
 it alfo with all Sorts of excellent Fifh ; fo that 
 in all relpefts this City is excellently provided 
 with all the Conveniencies of Life, It is tolera- 
 bly well * fortified, tho’ fomewhat after the old * 
 
 Falhion *, and the Houfes are generally pretty S/orza . 
 handfome. We found no ancient Monuments in 
 it. There is a very fine Fountain in the great 
 Place i and a Statue of Pope Urban VIII, un- 
 der whofe Pontificate, this City, and all the 
 Duchy of Urbin were reunited to the Ecclefiadi- 
 cal State. 
 
 At our Departure from Pefaro , we coaded a- p a n O. 
 gain along the Shore for Seven Miles, till we ar- Fanum, Fa - 
 rived at Fano : the Way continues dill, as I repre- num For tun*. 
 fented it on the other Side of Rimini •, only the ABiftopncL 
 Sea cads forth great Heaps of Acorns, Chef- ftbns, S &c. 1U 
 nutts, Cyprefs-nutts, Rudies, Leaves, and divers 
 other Things which probably came from the Ri- 
 vers, and are driven back from time to time 
 by the Wind. One of our Company found on 
 the Sand, one of thofe little Fifties which they 
 call in this Country Cavalletto ; in] France fome 
 call it, Cheval Marin , or the Sea-horfe ; others 
 the Little-dragon . I have often feen it in Cabi- 
 nets of Curiofities ; and I believe you alfo know 
 it. It foon grows dry, and is eafily preferved 
 without farther Trouble. It is certain, this 
 Cavalletto hath fomething not unlike the Head and 
 Neck of a Horfe. *Tis faid the Female has 
 no Hair on it’s Neck. This Hair falls off when 
 the Animal begins to grow dry. They attribute 
 ieveral Properties to it ; and they afiured us at 
 Fano among other things, that it cures the Mad- 
 Y 3 neli 
 
326 Senegallia. ANew Voyage. Vol.I. 
 
 nefs that is occafioned by the biting of a Mad- 
 Dog, being eaten roafted, and applied to the 
 Wound, beaten with Honey and Vinegar. 
 
 pA NO is a little City: We found nothing re- 
 markable in it but a triumphal Arch ; the In- 
 fcriptions of which are almoft quite defaced: 
 See the In- This Arch has three Gates, whereas that of Ri~ 
 lU-uaions, &c, mini is only a fmgle one. They boaft of the 
 Earth-Nuts or Truffs of Fano ; and pretend, that 
 the Women are more beautiful in this Place than 
 in any other ; I don’t know if this pretended Ad- 
 vantage could not he difputed. 
 
 I remember, that being at Oxford , I got 
 acquainted with a Company of young German 
 Travellers, who told me they went on purpofe 
 from Cambridge , to a certain little Town not ma* 
 ny Miles from thence, to fee the Women of that 
 Place, who had the Reputation of being hand- 
 fome j and that to fpeak impartially, they found 
 the Generality of them to be fo* 
 
 A Mile from Fano, we pafled on a Wooden- 
 Bridge, about five or fix hundred Paces long, 
 over the feveral Branches of the Torrent call’d 
 Pongio , which drowns all this Extent of Ground, 
 when the Snow on the Apennine begins to melt • 
 And afterwards we took the Way on the Sea-*- 
 fide for fifteen Miles, to Senegallia. T ho’ this 
 SENEGAL- is an old City, we could find no Marks of it’s 
 Antiquity *, it is enclofed with Walls, which 
 ^Gallic™ Seno* are defected by fome Baftions ; but the whole is 
 gallia. ' A very irregular. 
 
 JBifhoprick. By good Fortune, and rather becaufe of our 
 Wearinefs than for any thing elfe, we refufed to 
 go fee a Play, which was a£ted at the Gover- 
 nour’s Houfe. The next Morning, which was 
 the Day before Yefterday, they came to tell us, 
 that a little before the End of the Play, the Arch 
 which fupported the Theatre, with Part of the 
 
Parti. to ITALY. Ancona. 327 
 
 Hall, and the firfi: Boxes fell under the Weight 
 with which it was over-loaded : That thirty 
 Perfons were killed on the Spot, and a great 
 many others wounded ; and that all this little 
 City was in a great Diforder, and unfpeakable 
 Affliction on this Occafion : There fcarcely be- 
 ing any confiderable Family which had not a 
 Share in this Misfortune *, which puts me in mind 
 of that Simonides of whom Valerius Maximus fpeaks ; 
 that his good Genius forced him out of a Houfe 
 that fell down a Moment after. Socrates owned 
 that he had a Guardian Angel that preferved him 
 after the fame Manner. 
 
 Departing from Senegallia , we followed 
 again the Sea-Coaft,and travelled feventeen Miles, 
 without finding any Houfes, befides an old 
 Caftle, and fome Taverns about an hundred Paces 
 from the Sea : but near the little Village called la 
 
 Uurrette y we got into the Land-way for three 
 Miles to Ancona , where we now are. This City 
 is feated on a double Hillock, at the Point of 
 the Promontory. It is bigger than any one of 
 the four or five Towns laft mentioned, but not 
 much richer ; though it’s Haven is very good, 
 and the Country about it very fruitful. ’Tis 
 itrange, that the Trade is quite ruined in a Place 
 which was formerly fo famous for it. 
 
 ANCONA. 
 A Bifhoprick. 
 ’Tvvas fur pri- 
 zed by Cle- 
 ment VII, 
 Anno 1532 ; 
 and fmce that 
 Time has be- 
 longed to the 
 Ecclefiaflical 
 State. 
 
 Traders of all Religions may live at Ancona , provided they make no pub- 
 lick Exercife of any, befides the Religion of the Country. 
 
 They whiten Wax very well at Ancona , fays Du Val. 
 
 5 Tis true, that after the like Event in Ant- 
 werp , we ought not to be furpriz’d at any Acci- 
 dent of this Nature. The Streets of Ancona are 
 narrow, and confequently dark : There are nei- 
 ther very fair Houfes, nor fine Piazza’s, nor 
 confiderable open Places in it •, and the Uneven- 
 nefs of its Situation, renders it very inconvenient. 
 
 Y 4 The 
 
Ancona, A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 The Citadel which you fee on the firft Afcent, 
 as you enter, commands both the City and the 
 Haven. And on the other Hill, which makes 
 the Point of the Cape, is the Church of St Cjy- 
 riack, to which we afcended with a great deal of 
 Trouble and little Satisfaction. It is a low and 
 dark Edifice, the Front of which indeed is co- 
 ver’d with fine Marble, but without any Order 
 or Ornament of Architecture. Things which 
 are principally efleemed in this Church, by the 
 People of the Country, are the pretended Bodies 
 of fome pretended Saints, with many Relicks. 
 They boall they have St Urfula , as well as thofe 
 of Colcgn. As for us, what pleafed us belt, was 
 the Profpect which we had of the Sea, of the 
 City, and of a pleafant Country. At the Entrance 
 of the Mole, or Peer, there is a Triumphal- 
 Arch of very fine white Marble ; which Arch 
 was erected for Trajan, by Order of the Senate. 
 
 I took the Infcriptions, becaufe they are not ex- 
 actly reported in fome Books I have feen : They 
 run fo in large capital Letters. 
 
 Imp. Ceef. Dili New ce F. Newer Trajano Optimo 
 Aug . Germanic. Dacico . Pont. Max. I r. Pot. XVIII. 
 Imp* XI. Cof. VII. P. P. Providentiffimo Principi 
 S.P. R. quod Adcejjum Italics hoc etiam addito ex 
 pecunia fua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus reddiderit* 
 
 On the right Side. 
 
 Plotinez Augujl. Ccnjngi Aygujl . 
 
 On the Left. 
 
 Dives Mar dance Aug. Sorori Aug. 
 
 This Infcription, which is Hill very entire, let us 
 know, that it was erected in Acknowledgment 
 
 of 
 
3 2 9 
 
 Part I. VITALY. Ancona. 
 
 of the Bounty of that Prince, who repaired the 
 Harbour at his own Charge. They told us, 
 while we were confidering this Monument, that 
 certain Monks had oftentimes earneftly requeft- 
 ed, that they might employ the Materials of it 
 for fome Ufe in their Convent : And that at laft 
 they were fain to drive them away with Threats, 
 to be rid of their Importunity. 
 
 The Exchange where the Merchants meet, 
 is a Sort of Portico of a reafonable Bignefs. 
 There were at the four Corners of the Arch four 
 Statues, which reprefented Faith , Hope , Charity , 
 and Religion . But there happened an Earth- 
 
 quake fome Years ago, which fhook the three 
 Virtues , and threw down Religion . 
 
 I cannot forbear giving you fome Account 
 of the Habits, which. Thanks to the Feftival, we 
 faw here to Day. The principal Burghers ufu- 
 ally wear a black Cloak, lined with green ; blue 
 or Fillemot Stockings ; Shoes whited with Chalk, 
 and tied with coloured Ribbon ; the Doublets 
 unbuttoned ; the Facing of the Sleeves with Em- 
 broidery of feveral Colours, and great Shirt 
 Sleeves, which hang down to their Fingers Ends. 
 The ordinary Citizens Wives and Daughters 
 wear a kind of Toilet on their Heads, with a 
 long Fringe which covers their Faces, and drives 
 away the Flies like Horfe-trappings. The Body 
 of their Gown is red or yellow, laced before and 
 behind, and on both Sides, and all overlaid 
 with Galloon, like a Suit of Livery. The Waft- 
 coat fhort, their Petticoats of the fame Size, and 
 the whole of fifty feveral Colours : The great 
 Ladies are decked and trimmed up as much as 
 they can after the French Mode : But to fpeak 
 the Truth, their Apifhnefs is more awkward 
 and Grotefque, than the others natural Dref- 
 fmg. All this does neither Good nor Hurt ; but 
 
 there 
 
33 ° 
 
 Ancona. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 there is another Cuftom which prevails in this 
 Country, efpecially from Ferrara , and as we 
 were informed, almoft all over Italy, and is very 
 inconvenient, efpecially at this Time of the Year. 
 They have no Glafs-Windows, and their Cham- 
 ber-Windows are moftly made of Linen or Paper, 
 which is always torn , fo that they are forced to 
 invent Machines every Evening, to fhelter them- 
 felves from the cold Weather. This made us 
 fometimes bewail the Lofs of our Straw in Ger- 
 many ; where, if we wanted Beds, we had at 
 leaft a good Stove, well heated and clofed. To 
 compleat our Misfortunes, they commonly 
 brought us a Fricaffee of three Eggs, or as ma- 
 ny Pilchards, for the Supper of five or fix Per- 
 fons. You mull fight for your Vidluals, and 
 yet pay as much as for the beft Entertainment. 
 The fettled Price is, fo much a Head, three 
 About fifty Jules for Dinner, and four for Supper, on Ac- 
 French Sols . CO unt of the Bed , which amounts pretty near to 
 
 kte?'that e m four Shillings a Day. 
 jfiis Time, 
 
 about the Year 550, they had a good Meal in Italy for a Denier. Hofpites, 
 viatoribus honefte acceptis, & omnibus ad viftum neceffariis abunde 
 fubminiftratis, non amplius quam filiquam capiunt ; htec oboli tertia 
 pars eft. 
 
 I am informed the Pofl is juft going, which 
 makes me finifh my Letter, that I may not mifs 
 the Opportunity of fending it to you. I will add 
 only one Word, touching the Flux and Reflux 
 of the Sea. You muft know, that it is more or 
 lefs obfervable, according to the Diftance from 
 the Bottom, or Extremity of the Gulf. At Ve- 
 nice the Tides rife four Foot and a half, or there- 
 abouts -, near to Ravenna three, at Pefaro , two, 
 and one at moft an Ancona ; fo that at laft it 
 decreafes to nothing. 
 
 I HOPE 
 
33 * 
 
 Part I. ^ ITALY. Loretto. 
 
 I hope we fhall arrive at Loretto to Morrow 
 about Noon, and you may affure your felf I fhall 
 ufe all poflible Means to give you an exaft: Ac- 
 count of the Santa Cafa . 
 
 Ancona, Feb* 
 24. 1688. 
 
 I am^ 
 
 SIR , 
 
 Your, &c. 
 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 I BE LI EVE there is not in Italy a better 
 Country, nor a worfe Road, than between 
 Ancona and Loretto : where we arrived Yefterday 
 like poor Pilgrims, weary and dirty ; having been 
 often-times forced to alight to eafe the Coach. 
 
 All the World hath heard of our Lady of LORETTO, 
 Loretto : But lince there is a confiderable Variety a Bifhoprick 
 in the Accounts that are given of this Place, and unltec j t0 Re ~ 
 the Matter of it felf is very curious ; I intend to canatl ' 
 give you an Abridgment of all that I faw or 
 heard on this Occafion. 
 
 The Houle which is here called, Sacratiffimb 
 Sacello . Gloriofa Celia . Lomus aurea . Lomus Sapi- 
 ent'ue. Vas infigne Levotionis . Santtuarium Lei . 
 Propitiatorium Altijfimi . Civitas Refugii. Puteus 
 Aquarum viventium. Y err or Lamonum. Spes defpe- 
 rantium. Gloria Jerufalem . Yabernaculum Foederis . 
 
 Solium Gloria Lei. Sacrarium Livinitatis . Sacrofan - 
 ta Cafa , &c. is faid to be the fame in which the 
 Virgin Mary was born, where Ihe was betrothed 
 
33* Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 and married to Jofeph , where the Angel faluted 
 her, and where the Son of God was incarnated. 
 J . Cartegeno , E tanta e la dignita di quefto luogho , cofi fublime la 
 in the Book, Mae St a, ch * a tutti i facri luoghi , che fono Jotto il Cie - 
 TanT/i Maria. e preferito ilfacello di Loretto . That is, fo 
 great is the Dignity of this Place , fublime is its 
 
 Majetty , /to <2// the holy Places under Heaven , 
 
 Chapel of Loretto 0 to be preferred . They pre- 
 Tembile e tend, that thisHoufe was tranfported by Angels, 
 quefto luogho from Nazareth to Dalmatia , and there placed on a 
 quale altro non little Mountain called Terfatto, May 10. 1291. It 
 DkT & ^orta remained there but three Years and feven 
 del Paradifo. Months, when the Angels took it away again. 
 Jacobin , 1. 1. and brought it to the Middle of the Foreft, in the 
 c * *• Territory of Recanatu which is in the Marche of 
 
 Ancona . The celeftial Melody awakened the In- 
 habitants of the Neighbourhood, who flocked 
 together from all Parts, and faw the Miracle, by 
 the Favour of a great Light, 'with which the lit- 
 There is a tie Houfe was furrounded. Nature her-felf leap- 
 
 Camo befofd ^ or J o y> anc * ^ ver y Oaks of the Foreft, 
 at Loretto , bowed themfelves to pay Homage to it •, they 
 which de- wanted only a Voice like thofe of Dodona . Af- 
 fcnbesall the ter thisHoufe had continued there eight whole 
 Santa Cafa^ Months, it could not endure the Thieveries and 
 Murders that were continually committed about 
 that Place ; fo that it was taken up a third time, 
 and carried a Mile further, to the fame Hill, on 
 which it ftands at prefent : But it was no fooner 
 The learned come thither, than a Controverfy arofe be- 
 and pious tween two Brothers, to whom the Land belong- 
 
 ftratefthe 11011 * et ^ eac ^ to ^ ave * n ^' ls Share. This 
 
 Truth of this was the Caufe, that four Months after the An- 
 Story by four 
 
 doughty Arguments. 1. By the Omnipotence of God. 2. By the Probability 
 of the Matter of Fa6t, by Reafon of the Intelligence, or Angel that moves 
 the Primurn Mobile . 3. By the great Number of rich Prefents, which fo 
 
 many Princes have fent. 4. By the Antiquity of the Paintings, of which 
 there are feme Fragments to be ieen in the Santa Cafa . 
 
 gels 
 
333 
 
 Part I. to 1 T A L Y. Lorettq. 
 
 gels lifted it up a fourth Time, and fet it down 
 forne Paces from thence, in the Midft of the 
 High- way •, from whence it has never ftirred 
 fince. *Tis true, to prevent the Inconveniences, 
 to which this Place, as well as the others expofed 
 it *, and perhaps alfo to prevent the Misfortune 
 of a new Change, they built in the fame Place 
 a magnificent Church, in the Midft of which re- 
 mains the Santa Caja> free from all Manner of 
 Infults or Injury. And for its better Prefervation 
 they have fince erected four Walls, which en- 
 compafs it, in the Church, and clofe it up as in 
 a Box, without touching it at all, left the two 
 Walls [the old one and the new one being united] 
 fhould one Day be confounded together. Some 
 alledge another Reafon of this Separation ; and 
 fay : That the Stones recoiled with Violence, 
 and wounded the Workmen, when they would 
 have joined it to the Holy Building ; fo that 
 they were forced to leave a Space between 
 them. All the Beauties of Sculpture, and Ar- 
 chitecture, were difplay’d on that Occafion ; or 
 at leaft all the moft curious Artifts in the Be- 
 ginning of the laft Age, were employed in this 
 Work. It is of the Corinthian Order, and of 
 white Marble of Carrara , with excellent Bajfo 
 Relievo's , in which all the Hiftory of the Virgin 
 is repreiented. There are alfo two Niches, one 
 above, and another between the double Co- 
 lumns. In the ten Niches below, are the Sta- 
 tues of ten Prophets ; and in the upper Niches, 
 thofe of ten Sibyls. 
 
 It is within this, that the Santa Cafa is enclofed, 
 which confifts of one Chamber, or rather of one 
 Hall. It is forty four Roman Palmes long with- 
 in, eighteen broad, and twenty three high •, that 
 is to fay, thirty two Foot ; a Palm and a half 
 making juft thirteen Inches, Englijh Meafure. 
 
 They 
 
 The ancient 
 Key of the 
 Santa Cafa is 
 kept by the 
 Dominicans of 
 Farfa y twenty 
 •five Miles from 
 Rome , as being 
 a Relick, 
 
334 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. L 
 
 They would have thofe very People who live 
 on the Place, believe, that this Houfe is built of 
 certain unknown Stones, that the Story of it’s 
 being come from a remote Country, may feem 
 probable. But what they fay of thofe Stones is 
 frivolous : I have examined the Matter. ’Tis 
 true, they have purpofely made Choice of Bricks 
 of different Shapes, and unequal Bignefs, toge- 
 ther with fome flat and greyifh or reddifh Stones, 
 which are commonly every where. But if this 
 Affectation ferves for any thing, 5 tis only to 
 make the Cheat more vifible, and to confound 
 thefe Impoflors. The whole is built with Lime 
 and Sand, as our ordinary Houfes *, but the Pieces, 
 ill joined and fitted together, feem to evince, that 
 this Work was done in Hafte. 
 
 I will beg leave to make a little Digreffion, 
 to acquaint you with a Thought which comes in 
 my Head on this Occafion. It was under the 
 Pontificate of Boniface VIII, that this pretended 
 * h is Miracle happened *. And if you make any Re- 
 
 thaHie bailed ^ e( ^^ on on t ^ ie Life of that famous Fox» who is 
 himfelf to the reprefented in all Hiflories, as the mofl cunning. 
 Papal Dignity the moft Ambitious, and mofl covetous of all 
 like a Fox, the M en i n the World ; and if you add to thefe 
 n ed died Confederations, that of his Power and Authori- 
 like^a Dog. U ty, you will grant, without Difficulty, that he 
 It was he who was a Man fit to undertake fuch a Cheat as this, 
 invented and 
 
 firft 
 
 the 
 
 Triple Crown. 
 
 After he had counterfeited Angels who fright- 
 ed good Celettin , his Predeceffor, and obliged 
 
 Intravit ut him to return to his Hermitage, after he had 
 vulpes, regna- abdicated the Popedom : It is not at all impro- 
 vit ut leo, mor- that he made ufe of the fame Angels for 
 
 the Contrivance of the S. Cafa . It was a great 
 deal eafier Tafk to build fuch a little Houfe 
 in one Night, than to build a Mill with all its 
 Appurtenances, as the Jefuits once did. The 
 Jefuits have fuffkiently been conviCled of play- 
 
 tuus ut cams. 
 
 See the Mo- 
 rale Pratique 
 of the Jeluits, 
 
& V .. 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 '/ 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 V 
 
< 
 
 Parti. to ITALY. Loretto.' 
 
 ing of that Trick at St Foy, near Granada ; and 
 the Truth of this is maintained by the famous 
 Mr Arnaud , in one of his Letters to the Bifhop 
 of Malaga. But let us return to the Santa Cafa. 
 
 You may comprehend, by what I have faid, 
 of the new Walls round about, that you cannot 
 fee the Outfide ; and confequently what I fpeak 
 of mull be within. The Mafon’s Work is al- 
 moft all open to View, but there are fome Frag- 
 ments of Plaifter covered with Painting, from 
 which one might conje&ure, that all the Walls 
 were formerly covered with it. The Image of 
 the Virgin holding the little Jefus between her 
 Arms, appears in five or fix Places in the Re- 
 mainders of the Painting. This holy Taber- 
 nacle is fituated from Eafi to JVeft^ though this 
 Manner of building Churches is not much ob- 
 
 ferved in Italy. Towards the Eaft is the little 
 Chimney of the Chamber, and over it, in a 
 Nich, ftands the great Lady of Loretto . They 
 fay this Image of our Lady is of Cedar 'Wood ; 
 and they have been informed, by athoufand Re- 
 velations, that Jt was the Workmanfhip of St 
 Luke : flie is about four Foot high. * The Or- 
 naments with which fhe is fometimes decked, are 
 of an ineftimable Value. Her triple Crown, 
 which is all covered with Precious Stones was 
 the Prefent of Lewis XIII, King of France . They 
 told me this Diftich was engraved on the Infide 
 of it. 
 
 * She hath a 
 great Number 
 of Robes for 
 Change, and 
 feven different 
 Mourning Ha- 
 bits for the 
 Holy Week. 
 Whenever 
 
 they drefs or 
 
 Fu Caput ante meum cinxifti , VIRGO , Corona \ undrefs her. 
 Nunc Caput ecce te?et noflra Corona tuum . the f do 'Y** 
 
 ■* ** J a great deal or 
 
 Ceremony. 
 
 On each Side of the Nich, there are PrefTes full f The King 
 of the ancient Ornaments of the Statue ; and alfo g ave * 
 in the other little Window, which is made in 9 r ? wn to 
 the Wall on the South-fide, they prefer ve fome n an ’ 
 
 earthen 
 
33 ^ 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 * They add, 
 that the Vir- 
 gin was faying 
 over her Beads 
 when the An- 
 gel entered. 
 
 earthen Diffies which ferved for the life of the 
 Holy Family. There are many of thefe Vet 
 fels which are covered with Plates of Gold *, tho* 
 we could fee but one of them in that Place, which 
 is covered underneath with Silver. They would 
 make us believe, that this Porringer is made of 
 a ftrange Kind of Earth [and they might have 
 eafily found fuch ; ] but it is only Potter’s Ware, 
 the Enamel of which is not fo carefully fcraped 
 off, but that it appears ftill in fome Parts. O- 
 ver-againft our Lady, at the End which looks 
 PFeJlward , is the Window at which they fay the 
 * Angel entered. This Window feemed to me 
 about three Foot in Height, and a little lefs in 
 Breadth. 
 
 They could not tell me what Was become of 
 the old Roof, nor the little Steeple that is ob- 
 ferved in the ancient Pi&ures which reprefent this 
 Houfe; for the prefent Vault is of a later Fa- 
 brick. As for the old Bells they have them, and 
 their proper Ufe fhould be to appeafe Storms im- 
 mediately with their Sound ; but they never ufe 
 them for fear of wearing them. 
 
 I must not forget two confiderable Things, 
 which they fay were tranfported at the fame 
 Time with the Houfe ; The Altar made by the 
 Hands of the Apoftles themfelves, and the Stone 
 on which St Peter celebrated his firft Mafs. This 
 is covered with Silver, and is placed among the 
 Relicks, under the Altar where they ufually of- 
 ficiate. The Pavement of the Cafa is of fquare 
 Pieces of white and red Marble. This is not 
 the old Floor, for, they fay, the Angels left it 
 at Nazareth, with the Foundations of the Houfe. 
 To confirm the Story of the Tranflation, they 
 infill on this Argument, that, as they affirm, it 
 appears, that it has really no Foundation, but is 
 fixed on the Earth juft as it fell from Heaven t 
 a flrong Argument! You 
 
Part I. VITALY. Loretto. 
 
 337 
 
 You enter this Sacred Place by three Doors, None are per- 
 two of which are near the Face which looks to ] nitt< ^ t0 ^? mc 
 the Weft, and open a Paffage to crofs the Room r^Arms. 6 ” 
 from North to South : And through thefe two B. Bartoli . 
 Doors the Pilgrims are let in. The other isalfo ^ eo P le a J'. e ^ uf " 
 on the South Side, but towards the Eaft^ and leads [he Walls! but 
 to the Place called the Sandluary j that is, the they pretend. 
 Space between the Altar, and the End of the that thofe who 
 Chamber where our Lady Hands. ' e been lo . 
 
 I will not pretend to give you an Account or away t ^ e 
 the Riches which are in this Place : For fuch an Piece of them. 
 Undertaking wou’d be equally tedious and diffi- bave be - n P u - 
 cult: And therefore I fhall content my felf with jud^- 
 
 telling you, the Spedlator is amaz’d to behold the me nts. 
 infinite Number of precious * Stones with which * Sometimes 
 the Mantle of the Statue is adorn’d ; There is onl r 
 nothing all around but Lamps, Statues, Bulls, 
 and other Figures of Gold and Silver. Not to stuff! 
 mention the large Silver-gilt Candlefticks which The Crown of 
 are eight and twenty in Number : There are wbicil 
 Twelve of maffy Gold, of feven and thirty jiome f \obc° 
 Pound weight each. The laft rich Offering placed In th<? 
 is always left for fome time, in a Place fram’d Capitol, 
 on purpofe, flrait before the Eyes of our Lady, 2 ^ 
 
 The Offering which at prefent occupies that ho- l 
 nourable Place, is an Angel of Gold, holding a 
 Heart bigger than an Egg, all covered over 
 with Diamonds of great Value. The f Englijh 
 Jefuit who conduced us, told us, it was a Pre- 
 fent of the Queen of England, This Reverend 
 Father inform’d us alfo of a great Piece of News, of Walfing 
 of which, you ought, in my Opinion, to have L the 
 given us fome Advice. He affured us, “that that , 
 
 big with Child, and added, that 0 f that of the 
 it was by a Miracle •, fince they Undercroft , 
 had calculated, that the very Moment in which at \ a *t*rbut 
 
 which we 
 
 as rich as this is, and no le£s miraculous. Sec Erafm. Peregrin. 
 
 f He talked 
 much of the 
 formerly fa- 
 mous Madonas 
 
 Princefs was 
 undoubtedly 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 z 
 
 the 
 
338 
 
 [Ang.] 
 
 * To wit, in 
 Great Britain . 
 
 [Virg.] 
 
 [Ang.] 
 
 $ ThePrin- 
 cefies of 
 Orange and 
 Denmark. 
 
 [Ang.] 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 the Prefent entred, was the happy Minute in 
 which fhe Conceived. 
 
 He made the following Verfes upon this Sub- 
 je<5t, and would needs give me a Copy of ’em. 
 He introduces the Angel fpeaking to the Lady, 
 and the Lady anfwering. 
 
 Salve, VIRGO potens : En fupplex Angelas adfum % 
 Reginas Anglorum munera , vet a, fero. 
 Perpetuos edit gemitus mcejlijjima Princeps *, 
 
 Sis pia , £ 5 ? affliSlce quam petit affer opem. 
 
 Cafia Maria petit fobolem \ petit Anglia ; fummi 
 Pontificis * titubans Relligioque petit . 
 
 Inculti miferere uteri : Sitientia tandem 
 Vifcera, fcecundo fente rigare velis. 
 
 Nuncie Coeleftis, Regince vota fecundo : 
 
 Accipiet focii pignora chara tori. 
 
 Immo, Jacobus , dum tales fundo loquelas, 
 
 Dat, petit amplexus ^ concipit ilia. Vale . 
 
 SedNatumfO REGINA, Marem Regina peroptaP y 
 Nam fpem jam Regni + filia binafovet . 
 
 Dona , VIRGO, Marem. [Virg.] jam condunfc 
 ilia Natum, 
 
 Fulcrum erit Imperii, Relligionis honos. 
 
 Reginam exaudit REGINA MARIA Ma- 
 riam. 
 
 Alleluia f O fosliXy ter , quater , Alleluia ! 
 
 Never were Verfes repeated with a more lulcious 
 Tone, or with more Delight. The Jefuit’s Com- 
 panion thought them fo well pronounced, that 
 he humbly begged him to repeat them, though 
 he knew them already by Heart : And this Favour 
 was prefently granted him. My fmiling Coun- 
 tenance feemed alfo to applaud them, but my 
 Silence did not pleafe the Reverend Father. He 
 fufpe&ed there was fomethirg which I difiiked. 
 

 Part L to ITALY. Loretto. 339 
 
 and entreated me fo earneftly to tell him my 
 Thoughts, that I could not poffibly refule him. 
 
 At firft, I praifed feveral Paffages of them, as 
 the fcecundofonte, fruitful Spring, which the An- 
 gel begged, and the Dat , petit amplems , which 
 appeared to me very fignificant. Yes, faid he, 
 the Manner of exprefling the Thing, is not Ids 
 fweet and fine, than emphatical and Demon- 
 ftrative ; for it denotes a mutual Fervency, j 
 added, that fince he permitted me to fpeak free- 
 ly, I could not forbear telling him* that the Be- 
 ginning of the feventh Verle offended me as 
 much as that of thS* twelfth feemed excellent ; 
 that the Uterus \}VomV\ of which he fpoke, did 
 hot in all Probability want Cultivating \ that 
 fuch an Epithet was injurious to her Royal 
 Spoule ; and,, in a Word, that I could by no 
 Means endure the Word lnculii , Untilled , which 
 befides did not well exprefs his Thought. Ac 
 firft he would have defended himfelf, but hefub- 
 mitted at laft •, and it was concluded, that in- 
 ftead of Inculti miferere uteri , it fhould hence- 
 forth be, 0 humilem fpeftes uterum , or fomething 
 to that Purpofe; I would have paft over the 
 Vale, but he confefifedj of his own Accord, that 
 he put it there only to fill a Gap. He admired 
 the AUeluja beyond Meafure, and imagined, he 
 could never have made a more happy Conclu- 
 fion. It is true, faid I, Alleluja is an Angelical 
 Word, it is an Exclamation of Praife and Joy* 
 which comes very feafonably where you havO 
 placed it : But you muft remember, added I, 
 that the three firft Syllables of Alleluja are long, 
 whereas you have made it a Dadtylus ; for this 
 Hebrew Word is written in Greek , ’Av.tiAwai He * Amenred- 
 excufed himfelf for the Antepenultima , by citing 
 * Prudentiusy who had made it fhort, notwith- j T*Ph7kucian 
 Z 2 ftanding Verfe, 
 

 40 Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 Handing the Greek which fignified little, the 
 Word being Hebrew and confeffed the Penul- 
 tima was naturally long. But he concluded, 
 that the Beauty of a Thought might excufe the 
 negletfting of fuch Niceties of Quantity ; and 
 refolved at any Rate to keep his Alleluja . We 
 had already altered our Difcourfe, when the 
 young Brother defired Leave to criticize the Na- 
 tum of the fifteenth Verfe. Hefaid, the Son was 
 not yet born, and therefore ought not to be called 
 Natum: And that he could not think it poffible, 
 the Name of JSlaius or Films lhould be given to 
 an Embryo of half a Minute, or rather to the 
 informed Matter of a Foetus . But the Father- 
 Poet laughed at his Refiedlion, and told him, 
 that the Word of the moft Holy Lady was afure 
 Word-, that Born or to be born , Natus Filius , or 
 ‘ Mas fignified the fame Thing on this Occahon ; 
 that it was properly a Queftion of the Gender, 
 and that we may fpeak of Things that will in- 
 fallibly happen, as of thofe that are already in 
 Being. The young Man had another Objection 
 to make againft Natum marem , but he only mut- 
 tered a little, faying, there never was Natus foe - 
 mina, for he was afraid of giving Offence : And 
 thus ended our Conference. 
 
 fcO* These Verfes have fomething very fingular 
 in the main, and in every Circumflance of them, 
 that I could not forbear fending them to you. 
 You judge well that there is no Conclufion to be 
 drawn from the Fancies of this Poet, againft 
 prejudiced Perfons, to whom their is no {peak- 
 ing but with the greateft Refpedt. Have a Care 
 then of making an ill Ule of what I fend you : 
 my Defign being only to make you take Notice 
 of two Things. The tirft is, The great Pains 
 and Care that thefe Demetrius's take ; that per- 
 nicious 
 
34 * 
 
 Parti. to ITALY. Loretto. 
 
 nicious Cabal of Seducers, and publick Thieves, 
 who upon all Occafions extol and magnify the 
 rare Virtues and divine Power of their great 
 Diana , to the vifible Danger and Ruin of the 
 poor People, whom they cheat and feduce. 
 
 And fecondly, I was willing to fhew you by 
 this fmall Sample, to what an Height the Im- 
 pudence of thefe * Impoftors is grown ; being * The Jefuit 
 not content with taking rich Prefents of ftmple Martin del Ri§ 
 and credulous People j they laugh alfo, and P ves an Ac ~ 
 make Sport at them j not excepting crowned p r } e ft s Q f t hi 3 
 Heads themfelves. Madcna have 
 
 There is a great Number of Candlefticks b . een man 7 
 with Branches, and other Luminaries, all round k^iiSpTrks. 
 the Houfe without, that is, round the Walls See Demonolo- 
 which enclofe it. But one of the greateft Rari- gy of F. Per- 
 ties we obferved, was the Procefiions of thofe Ch. i. 
 who furround this Houfe on their Knees. Some 
 compafs it five Times, others feven, and fome 
 twelve, according to the Myftery they fearch in 
 the Number. Imagine you fee forty or fifty 
 Perfons, or more ; Men, Women, and little 
 Children, all creeping on their Knees, and turn- 
 ing one Way *, and a like Number meeting them, 
 as they go to the other Side. Every one is fur- 
 nifhed with Beads, and mumbles his Pater-Nofters 
 and dive Marias . In the mean Time they all 
 ftrive to creep next the Wall, both to fhorten 
 their Way, and to be neareft to the Holy Place ; 
 which makes them frequently juft le each other, 
 and caufes no fmall Confufion. This is never 
 done, but when there is little Company there. 
 
 The great Refort of Pilgrims is at Rafter, and 
 about the Feftival of the Virgin’s Nativity, 
 which they folemnize in the Month of September - y 
 at which Times they are obliged to take other 
 Meafures. I dare hardly venture to tell you a 
 
 Thing, 
 
342 
 
 Sac cola. 
 
 *f- Some are of 
 Gold, Silver, 
 Ebony, Ivory, 
 with artificial 
 Flowers: and 
 many are en- 
 riched with 
 Pearls, Preci- 
 6 as Stones, 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. I, 
 
 Thing, \yhich may Teem incredible ; but it is 
 reported for a certain Truth ; which is, That 
 in the Years of the greateft Concourfe, they 
 have feveral times counted two hundred thou- 
 fand Pilgrims and upwards, during thefe two 
 Feltivals. 
 
 One can fcarcely imagine a pleafanter Sight, 
 than the Caravans of he and fhe Pilgrims, when 
 they come together, as Bodies of Confraterni- 
 ties : Many Societies of Bologna , for Example, 
 join together to go on Pilgrimage in Company. 
 Each Society have their * Frocks of ordinary 
 Linen-Cloth, with a Cowl of the fame Linen, 
 made like a Strainer for Hippocras , which quite 
 covers their Heads, and leaves only three Holes 
 for their Eyes and Mouth. There are Frater- 
 nities of all Colours : They forget not their 
 large Chaplets of Beads, Girdles, Pilgrims Staves, 
 and the Arms of the Society, which are paint- 
 ed, or embroidered, before and behind, on the 
 Back and Breafl of every Brother* Thefe Pil- 
 grims, thus equipped, ride upon AfTes, which 
 are reputed to have fome Smack of Sandlity, by 
 reafon of their frequent Journeys to the S. Caja . 
 They feldom fall, and when they happen to do 
 fo, they fay it is without Danger to the Pilgrim. 
 So much for the Men. The Womens Habits 
 are as rich as they poffibly can procure : They 
 fallen to the Body of their Gowns, a little Pil- 
 grim’s Staff, about the Length of one’s Hand f : 
 A Staff which gives Occafion for many pretty 
 Thoughts, and ferves for Diverfion to the Com- 
 pany on the Way. Thefe Societies of Ladies 
 ride in Calafhes, furrounded with whole Squa- 
 drons of Afs-Troopers. Is it not pleafant to fee 
 thefe Morrice Dancers thus mounted and dreffed, 
 make an hundred Rounds, and antick Poflures, 
 
 aceom-- 
 
343 
 
 Parti, to ITALY. Loretto. 
 
 accompanied with merry Ballads to divert the 
 Lady Pilgrims ? Let not this ftrange Liberty of 
 the Women furprizeyou. The Pretence of Devo- 
 tion to our moft Holy Lady, is a Reafon fuffi- 
 cient to releafe them frpm their ufual Prifons : 
 
 And befides, I doubt not but every one hath a 
 Brother, or Tome other Spy not far from her. 
 
 I could entertain you with a great many Re- 
 marks upon the Church of Loretto , if I were not 
 afraid of cloying you with fuch Stories : Only 
 you muft know, that all the Riches in the 
 S. Cafa are but of fmall Value, in Comparifon 
 of what we faw in the Treafury-Chamber. This 
 Chamber is a fpacious Place: Seventeen large 
 PrefTes with folding Doors, ferve as Wainfcot 
 to the Walls 5 and the vaulted Roof is gilded 
 in Compartments, adorned with the fined: Paint- 
 ings. * The Silver-work is not thought wor- * They al- 
 thy of Admittance into the PrefTes, as it was | ed E e 2 Cbro*. 
 allowed at firft : But at prefent it is confufedly 1X ‘ 2 °* 
 heaped up in other Places, till they are pleafed 
 to fell it. The PrefTes then are filled only with 
 pure Gold, remarkable Jewels, or VefTels, and 
 Ornaments more precious than Gold f : I will f Among thefe 
 not attempt a Relation of the Particulars, for Jewels they 
 they exceed Imagination it felf. To compre- 
 hend how thefe vaft Riches were thus amafs’d, p ear j wrought 
 you need only remember, that all the People, after the Fa- 
 Princes, and States, who acknowledge the Su- ^ lon of: a Gon ~ 
 premacy of the Pope, have continually, for thele which is P °na- 
 four hundred Years, been bringing them thither, turally the Fi- 
 and driving to out-do each other: Vanity, and gure of our 
 often Politicks it felf, bring as much or more 
 Riches to this Shrine as Superflition. When a feerTi/andin- 
 Prince has a Mind to have a Miracle performed, deed ’tis but a 
 and dare not do it himfelf, he is not difpleafed to Trifle; though 
 piake Ufe of fuch an Operator as our Nojlredame , 
 
 flee in it. 
 
344 
 
 The Crown, 
 or Via fir o , is 
 worth near 
 Five Shillings 
 and Six-pence 
 Englijh 
 M^ney. 
 
 Mahomet II, 
 and after him 
 Selim his Ne- 
 phew. 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage Vol. I. 
 
 to take away all Occafion of murmuring from 
 the People. You mud alfo confider, that this 
 Treafure is but a fmall Part of the Prefents they 
 have received. They have built a very fine 
 Church, and a magnificent Palace. They have 
 fettled Revenues, and purchafed Lands out of 
 Sight; and it is not to be doubted, but they 
 have Chefls full of Money. This is not all ; 
 the Boxes furnifh them with prodigious Sums, 
 and one of the Secrets they make Ufe of, to dir 
 up the Devotees to fill them, deferves to be taken 
 Notice of. They didribute a printed Paper, by 
 which they endeavour to perfuade the People, 
 that the Holy Houfe has no more than feven and 
 twenty thoufand Crowns of Revenue ; and by 
 another Computation which they annexed to the 
 former, they fhew, that they are obliged to dif- 
 burfe thirty eight thoufand fix hundred and thir- 
 ty four Crowns, to pay the Officers Salaries, and 
 other annual Expences. Thus there remain above 
 eleven thoufand Crowns, which, according to 
 this pretended Account they fall diort of every 
 Year* This furnifhes them with an excellent 
 Opportunity to make pathetick Reprefentations 
 of their Poverty, and to move the Compafiion 
 of devout Pilgrims, in Favour of our good 
 Lady ^ who, they fay, loves nothing more than 
 the Virtue of Liberality. 
 
 After we had feen the Treafurv, they carri- 
 ed us to the Arfenal, which is not confiderable. 
 There they fhewed us fome Arms taken from 
 the Infidels *, and relate, that thefe Barbarians 
 having made a Defcent to plunder the Treafu- 
 ' ry, about an hundred and fifty Years ago, our 
 Lady (truck them all blind as they were going 
 to enter into it ; at which Time they feized on 
 Part of their Arms. From the Windows of this 
 
 Arfenal, 
 
345 
 
 Part I. to ITALY. Loretto. 
 
 Arfenal, you behold a Part of the Sea, over 
 which, in the Air, they fay, the Houfe was 
 brought. They add, that ever fince, there is 
 a certain White Way on the Water *, and cur 
 Jefuit proteded to us with the highed Afle- 
 verations, that he had often obferved it. Yeder- 
 day when we came hither, the Rabble flocked 
 about us, and told us, That we mud make 
 Hade to confefs and communicate ; without 
 which, thofe who fhould dare to enter into the 
 Holy Houfe , would be fhaken even to the Mar- 
 row in their Bones, and be in Danger of fudden 
 Death. There mud be as well Impudence on 
 one Side, in this Bufinefs, as there is Prejudice 
 and Stupidity on the other. 
 
 After we had vifited fome Apartments in 
 the Palace, they brought us to the Cellar, where 
 we found one hundred and forty great Tuns, 
 full of good Wine. And from thence we went 
 to the Place where the Druggs are kept ; where 
 they fhewed us three hundred and forty five 
 Veflfels of Earthen- Ware, which they faid were 
 painted by Raphael , and are infinitely edeemed. 
 On five of the larged, are St Paul, and the 
 four Evangelids ; and on the red, Sacred Hido- 
 ries, the Metamorphofes of Ovid , and Plays of 
 Children. 
 
 LORETTO is a little Place, but incom- 
 pafifed with good Walls; and fomewhat forti- 
 fied with round Badions near the Gate : For, I 
 think there is but one. It has the Title of a 
 City and Bifhoprick. There is in the publick 
 Place, a very beautiful Fountain of Marble, en- 
 riched with Statues of Brafs. There is alfo a 
 Statue of Sixtus Quintus , in the fame Place, which 
 the Inhabitants of Loretto eredted in Acknow- 
 ledgment of the Privileges they had received 
 Vol. I. [Z] " from 
 
34 & 
 
 m Chaplets of 
 Beads were in- 
 vented by Ur- 
 ban IT, at the 
 End of Centu- 
 ry XL 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage V ol. I. 
 
 from him. The principal Trade of this little 
 City, confifts in Medals, Rofaries, fandtified 
 Beads, Images, Agnus Dels, Meafures of the 
 Height of the Sacred Image, and fuch-like 
 Stuff*, befides the Favours of the Madona , which 
 are to be fold at the firft coming ; or, if you 
 will, to be trucked with Gold, or Silver, or 
 precious Stones. 
 
 W e faw fome * Chaplets whofe Beads were 
 like Goofe Eggs ; thefe are for the Days of 
 great Devotion. You muft know, moreover, that 
 there is no Perfon there, who does not affirm 
 himfelf to be defended from the Race of one 
 who faw the Arrival of the Holy Houfe . All 
 of them have heard their Grandfathers relate, 
 that they had it from their Anceftors ; as thofe 
 who live now will not fail to tranfmit the fame 
 Story to their Children, and their Childrens 
 Children. And muft not one be very incredulous 
 that refufes to believe fuch a Tradition. 
 
 Pope Clement VIII caufed an Infcription to 
 be fixed upon one of the Faces of the Santa 
 Cafa , which contains an Abftradt of this extra- 
 ordinary Hiftory. And I fhall add that In- 
 fcription here, fo much the more willingly, as 
 it will ferve me to make good all the Incredi- 
 ble Things, I have been juft now relating to you. 
 What I call incredible, is not the Hiftory, or 
 Fable only, of this little Houfe, with it’s Cir- 
 cumftances ; but ’tis the Boldnefs [to exprefs 
 my felf with Moderation] and the Tricks of all 
 thole Impoftors, that with Impunity mock and 
 laugh at God and Man ; and find fo many cre- 
 dulous poor Souls to believe them. 
 
 CHRIST I ANE 
 
Part I. to I T A L Y. Loretto. 
 
 347 
 
 CHRISTIAN E HOSPES! 
 
 Qui Pietatis , Votique causa , hue advenijli ; 
 
 Scicram Lauretana?n JEdem vides , 
 
 Divinis Myjleriis & Miraculorum Gloria , 
 Toto Orbe Terrarum Venerabilem . 
 
 Htc , SanSUJfima Dei Genitrix Maria 
 In lucem edita . 
 
 Hie, ab Angelo falutata . 
 
 Hie , JEterni Dei Verbum Caro fa Slum eft. 
 Hanc , Angeli primum , i Palceftina ad Illyricum 
 Adduxere ad Terfaftum Oppidum A. S. * 1291. 
 Nicolao Quarto Summo Pontifice . 
 
 Poftea, 
 
 Initio Pontificates Bonifacii VIII, 
 
 J/z Picenum tranftata prope Recinetam Urbem ; 
 i/z Collis Nemore 
 Eddem Angelorum opera collocata j 
 L$i, loco intra Anni fpatium ter commutator 
 HiCy poftremo , Sedem Divinitus fixit 
 Anno abhinc CCC. 
 
 Ex eo tempore , taz/z Stupendce rei novitate 
 Vicinis Populis ad admirationem commotis , 
 Turn, deinceps, Miraculorum fama 
 Longe, lateque propagata, 
 
 Sandta haec Domus 
 Magnam apud omnes Gentes 
 Venerationem habuit: 
 
 * Others, 
 1293. under 
 BonifaceVlll . 
 
44S 
 
 Loretto. A New Voyage, tcc. Vol.I. 
 Cujus parietes nullis fundamentis fubnixi, 
 Pod; tot Saeculorum iEtates integri, 
 Stabilefque permanent. 
 
 Clemens VIII, Pontifex Maximus 
 In hoc marmoreo Lapide infcribi juflit j 
 Anno Domini M. D. XCV. 
 
 I am , 
 
 Loretto, Fet. SIR, 
 
 20, 1 688. ’ 
 
 Tour, &c. 
 
 *** Quid non MONACALIA Pedtora cogis, 
 AUR 1 Sacra Fames! Virg. /En. L. iii. 56. 
 
 But, Presbyters which feed the Flock for filthy Lucre ; and as being Lords 
 over God’s Heritage: High-minded j that will .be called Rabbi, Rabbi:, 
 Vain-Talkers : Not apt to teach : Blind Guides : Given to Wine : Incontinent: 
 Slow-BeLies : Evil-Beafts ; &c. From fuch Monks turn away, of whatfoever 
 Frock, or Garment they be, in all the Corners of the World. JSzek. xxx iv. 
 Math, xxiii. 1 'Tim. iii. 2 Tim . iii. Tit. i. iPet.v. 2, 3. 
 
 ‘The End of the jirjl Part of the firjl Volume. 
 
 Printed by C. Jephfon in WeJl-SmithfieM, 
 


 
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 (MISSON, F. M.). A New Voyage to Italy with Curious Observations on Several 
 Other Countries. 2 vols. in 4. 25 engr. pi. (views, monuments, plans, costumes). 
 5 .,‘il cont. calf (si. rubbed, hinges weak), 8vo. London 1739. $22.00 
 
 Lowndes 1578 : “ Highly praised by Addison . . . the first general account of Italy that ap- 
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