Digitized by the Internet Archivi in 2015 3 https://archive.org/details/ramblesroundguilOOsmit RAMBLES round GUILDFORD, WITH A TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN. BY W. C. SMITH. "Blest source of health! seated on rising- ground, With friendly hills by nature guarded round : From eastern blasts, and sultry south secure, Thy air's balsamic, and thy soil is pure.'* GUILDFQRD: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR BY W. KEMPSON. 1828. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Pag-e, Introduction ------ 3 Approach to Guildford. 5 Ancient Guildford. ----- 13 Castle - 20 Manor of Poyle. 31 Friary 32 The King's Manor, or Guildford Park. - 34 Firm of the Town. ----- 41 Of the Town in General - - - - 44 Miscellaneous Information relative to the Town. 53 The Corporation. ----- 60 The Borough 67 Parishes. 68 Churches. - <- - - - - ib. Abbott's Hospital. ----- 74 Free School. - - - 76 Charities. - - - - - 77 Biography. - - - - - -127 Addenda. - - - - - - -149 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page, Ramble I. To Chantry Downs, Albury, Shere, and Chil worth. - - - - - 150 Ramble II. To Woodbridge, Worplesdon, and Woodstreet. - - - - 173 Ramble III. To Saint Catharine's Hill and Godalming. - - - - - 185 Ramble IV. To the Race Downs, Newland's Corner, East and West Clandon, and back to Guildford through Merrow. - - 203 Ramble V. Over part of Guildown to Putten- ham, and back by Compton and Losely Park 208 Ramble VI. To Shalford, Bramley, and Wonersh. - - - - - - 211 Ramble VII. To Stoke, Sutton, Send, Wok- ing and Ripley. - Addenda. 1 Notes ------- 213 TO ARTHUR ONSLOW, ESQUIRE, M. P e RECORDER OF THE TOWN, THIS LITTLE VOLUME, IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF THE LONG AND VALUABLE SERVICES) RENDERED BY HIM TO THE Inhabitants of guildford. RAMBLES ROUND GUILDFORD. In a task like that which I have now un« dertaken, however disinterested the views of an author may be, the world will always give him credit for having an eye to his own ad- vantage : and perhaps the ill-natured part of it would not, in the present instance, allow me credit for the truth of my assertion, were I to say that I have been induced to write this little book, not so much from a consideration of the profit I may derive from its publication, as from a desire to render myself useful : I will however boldly assert that I have been prompted by no paltry book-making mo- tives, and J trust a perusal of my pages a 2 4 INTRODUCTION. will prove to the candid reader that I have, at any rate endeavoured, at the expense of much time and research, to furnish an enter- tainment worthy of his acceptance. That the beauties of Guildford are worthy of a narrator no reasonable person will venture to deny, that the task of describing them has not fallen into better hands many will perhaps regret : but it is now to late for me to think of retreating, and if I succeed in my humble attempt to blend instruction with amusement till an abler pen is employed on the same subject, I shall have done as much as ought fairly to be expected of me. I believe, however, that, in whatever else my descriptions may be defective, they will at least possess one merit, that of being faithfully drawn ; for I am not an observer of yesterday™I have marked the effects of changing seasons upon this little spot for years, and the sunshine of summer has recalled me to my favorite haunts with untiring satisfaction. In the account of my Rambles I feel perfectly at home, and if in antiquarian knowledge I am not so competent as I ought to be, I have at least endeavoured to make myself so. INTRODUCTION. 5 That my readers may better judge of the faithfulness of my sketches, I intreat them to make my little book the companion of their walks, and, if they have not already expe- rienced the pleasure which the approach to the Town on the west is calculated to inspire, to ascend the hill leading to Guild-down till they shall arrive at that part where the road begins to widen and open upon the downs, and, seating themselves upon a gate on the right hand at about three yards from the road, to peruse my account of at to approacH to ©tuttrfcirtr on the Wit%U Nothing can surely be more delightful than the enchanting prospect which presents itself from this situation, especially if the time chosen be a fine summer's evening. — We be- hold before us a spacious valley, to the extent of several miles, interspersed with meadows, corn-fields and woods, with here and there a respectable looking mansion, or the spire of a village Church peeping from between the green foliage. The eye wanders from object to object till it loses itself among the blue hills a 3 6 APPROACH TO GUILDFORD. which form the horizon, and then returns to trace the windings of the little river, or to admire the commanding effect of the town seated upon the very spot where its appearance would be the most delightful. That purple ridge of hills on our left, which, even at this distance, you conceive to be covered with heath, with here and there a solitary tree or a few clustering firs to relieve its otherwise desolate aspect, is situate between Farnham and Bagshot. From the situation we now occupy it serves to form a pleasing contrast with the verdant and fertile fields which ex- tend from its base to the valley beneath us. A little farther to the right the blue hills assume a paler appearance till they seem to fade into the distant sky. In returning from those hills, the eye in- stinctively rests upon a farm house on the sloping side of a green hill : it is a pleasing and picturesque object, but I more especially draw your attention to it because the water with which it is supplied comes from a mineral spring very much esteemed for its virtues by those who know of its existence. Still further APPROACH TO GUILDFORD, 7 to the right, a thickly wooded country pre- sents itself, decked in all the splendor of leafy magnificence. Beneath us we see the winding channel of the wey, tracing its silvery course through the green meadows till it nearly ar- rives at a genteel cottage, * distant from us something more than a mile, and partly hidden by the surrounding trees, and which, though appearing somewhat to the left of the river, is seated upon its banks. Apparently about half a mile beyond this stands Stoke-hill house : § you will easily discover it by a green lawn (for it is scarcely large enough to be called a park) which lies before it. That large brick-built seat, still further to the east is called Sutton place. It was till within these few years the property of the Weston family, one of whom, Sir Richard Weston, brought over to this country the invention of locks for Canals, and erected, in the river before us, the first that were employed in this kingdom. * The residence of James Mangles, Esq. § The occasional residence of W. P. Brigstock, Esq. 8 APPROACH TO GUILDFORD. The mansion is surrounded with a spacious park, the noble trees of which give a sombre and venerable air to the ancient building*. The Court of Chancery holds possession of this estate at the present time. A neat little edifice much nearer, and adorned with a small white cupola, is Stoke Hospital. It may now be desirable to cross the road, and advance a few paces into the opposite field, where we shall procure a better view of the town. There, on the declivity of the hill, is guildford ! adorned with towers and turrets, and with the mouldering keep of its once noble Castle rising above the trees, and standing prominently forth as the object having first claim upon our attention. The outworks of that building once extended half over the site where the town now stands ; a few crumbling relics of its magnificence are all that remain save the massive tower before us, which still keeps its place to re- mind us of by-gone days, and to read us a lesson on the perishableness of this transitory world. APPROACH TO GUILDFORD. 9 From our present situation we obtain a view of the three Churches : that at the foot of the town is dedicated to Saint Nicholas ; the middle Church to Saint Mary, and the new one on the summit of the hill to the Holy Trinity : the body of the latter Church is to the eastward— a building which, at this dis- tance, might be taken for it, is a part of the White Hart Inn: the slated roof of the Church may be seen just rising above it. Opposite this edifice, four modest little turrets, bearing each a vane veering about and glittering in the sun, attract our eyes to the Hospital found- ed by Archbishop Abbott. The simplicity of this building is perfectly in unison with its benevolent uses, and every lover of variety and neatness must allow that it is one of the greatest ornaments of the scene before us. Lower down, a tasty white turret stands on the roof of the town-hall. Its aspect is somewhat more lively than that of its charitable neighbour, and truly so it should be, for is it not the place where the Town Mayor is annually invested with the gay insignia of his office, where the warm tradesman is dignified by ad« 10 APPROACH TO GUILDFORD. mission into the corporation, and where the Freeman and Freeholder exercise the in* valuable privilege which it is an Englishman's greatest pride to enjoy? On the side of the opposite hill stands the House of Correction for the County, shewing from its situation even the internal walls, and doubtless built on that station to offer a gentle hint to the occasional looker on, that it is much easier to find the way into than out of it. Beneath us is the Mill with its clacking and industrious wheel sending a white current of foam across the little pool upon which it stands, and nearer, completely embosomed in trees, we see two handsome cottages, whose envious seclusion will always render them the favorite abodes of the affluent lovers of re- flection and retirement. We must now notice the beautiful hills which appear on the South side of the town. Over the first, which is called Pewley-hill, and somewhat to the right of the Castle, the steeple of Merrow Church may be discerned peeping above the trees which form the back ground of the middle part of the landscape, APPROACH TO GUILDFORD. 11 On the top of this hill stands a semaphore in the line of communication leading from Portsmouth to the Admiralty. Farther to the right the chalky cliffs of an immense quarry scoped from the hill side, increase the pictures- que appearance of the prospect. In the valley beneath us we again catch a glimpse of the wey as it approaches the town. More to the South is Chauntry Down thickly covered with stately firs on one side, and with forest trees of a more lively aspect on the other. The middle part is generally covered with fern, which agreeably contrasts itself with the darker foliage. Upon a little hill, between the two former, stands Saint Martha's Chapel : the elevated situation of this object with two or three broad sandy paths winding round it among the furze, gives an additional zest to many of the best views in this delightful neighbourhood. On the right of Chauntry Down, a chain of blue hills in the distance extends several miles: the most Easterly is Leith hill, though we are not in a situation to see the tower erected upon it, and that upon which the wind-mill stands m 12 APPROACH TO GUILDFORD. near Ewhurst, and distant about seven miles. Between these and the station we now oc- cupy, a thickly wooded country presents itself, and Chinthurst hill is the last object in this truly captivating landscape. - As I shall avail myself of a future occasion to conduct my readers to the summit of the hill upon which we stand, I must here close my task of picturesque description for the pre- sent, and shall next proceed to the more staid avocation of making them acquainted with such things relative to the town itself as are worthy of their attention ; promising, as soon as I shall have done so, to commence the account of those Rambles amongst the woods and hills of the adjacent villages and hamlets, which constitutes to me the most pleasing part of my undertaking. ANCIENT GUILDFORD. The earliest accounts of this town are to be Found in the Saxon Annals ; for neither in the British nor Roman is it mentioned : nor is it noticed in the first-named till the year of our Lord 900, when Alfred bequeathed it by will to his nephew Ethelwald. At Ethelwald's death, or as some think at his rebellion it reverted to the crown : and this, if true, is a sufficient proof that it was at that time a royal domain. It is affirmed by Speed that Alfred and other Saxon Princes made it their place of residence: but we are told, in Bray and Manning's History of Surrey, that there is no good authority for such a supposition. From this assertion of Speed I imagine the prevailing error that the Castle was the residence of the Saxon Princes must have arisen. When I come to speak of that 14 ANCIENT GUILDFORD. building I shall adduce my reasons fur sup* posing it to have been erected at a much later date than that assigned by the followers of the old writer to whom I have alluded. It is probable that the town took the first part of its name from Gilds, Saxon companies or fraternities, which when united for purposes of trade were called Gilds-merchant : and the latter part, ford, from the shallowness of the stream which passes through it, and which was some years since deepened and altered into a navigable canal. We have one melancholy event upon record which refers to the period when the Danes were in possession of the crown : I speak of the massacre of prince iElfrid's attendants. iElfrid was the eldest son of King ^Ethelred the Saxon by his second wife, and consequently in default of issue by the first, next heir to the crown. He is said to have been enticed to England, in the days of Harold the Dane, by the intrigues of Earl Godwin, and, having been seduced from Winchester where his mother resided, under pretence of an invita- tion to pass a few days at court, to have been ANCIENT GUILDFORD, 15 put under arrest at Guildford, where most of his attendants were murdered in the streets. The eyes of the unfortunate prince were afterwards put out at Gillingham in Kent, and he died and was buried at Ely. See note A. From the time of this cruel transaction till that of the general survey under William the Conqueror, when the Domes day book was compiled (a period of about fifty years) no mention of Guildford is made. The state of this town in the reign of William I. may be inferred from the following extract from the Domesday record. " In Gildeford King William hathLXXV. messuages or tenements in which are resident. CLXXV. tenents. In the time of King Edward ( the Confessor ) they yielded a rent of XVIII/. and III. pence. * At present they stand valued at XXX /. X hut pay an actual rent ofXXXHL" Allowing each of these men to ha ve had a w ife and two children, the population would have been seven-hundred. * This is about £1080 15 6 of our present money. J About £1920 present money: » 9 16 ANCIENT GUILDFORD. These early residents were tenants under homage, and most of them engaged in trade, but were free. There is a tradition that the ancient town was situate on the western side of the river, and, as the out-works of the Castle did cer- tainly, in the times of the early Norman princes, occupy a great part of the site of the present town, which fact may be proved by traces still extant, there is, at any rate, some reason for believing this statement. There is no doubt that the ancient town subsisted before the Castle was erected, but not on the eastern side of the river ; for our Norman ancestors were surely too wise to pull down a town which yielded them a considera- ble emolument, for the purpose of erecting a Castle : especially when the royal domain on the western side afforded so much more eligible a situation for their purpose. Follow- ing up our line of probabilities, there is nothing unreasonable in supposing that the erection of the new fortress should occasion many people to settle in its neighbourhood, particularly when we find that in the time of the ANCIENT GUILDFORD. IT Conqueror certain lands were granted from the crown to one of the Testard family, who, or one of his near descendants, built there-on the Church of Saint Mary and the old Trinity Church for the use of his tenants : and this train of reasoning* will easily lead us to account for the present situation of the town, the High Street of which, it is reasonable to conclude was built, when the demolition of the fortifi- cations and out-works of the Castle took place, out of the materials thus furnished. As a farther proof that the old town stood in the situation alluded to, we may refer to names still in use : the road leading to Catherine Hill being called the Bury, that is the Burgh, as having been the borough or main street, and the ad- joining fields the Bury, or Burgh fields. The rest of the royal domain which lay on the west side of the river, was reserved for the King's private use, *and, having been convert- ed into a park by Henry II. soon after his accession, was occupied by his successors for many generations under the name of the King's Manor. Part of the domain on the east side was occupied by the Castle, part alienated to B 3 18 ANCIENT GUILDFORD. the family of Testard as before stated, from one of whose successors it was afterwards called the Manor of Poyle, and the remainder disposed of to make room for the Friary which was founded by Queen Eleanor, Coasort of Henry III. Having thus offered to my readers as much of the early history of this place as is generally believed by men of rational understandings, and perhaps more than is strictly true, I now purpose to treat severally of its antiquities and other objects of general interest. From what has been said, Ancient Guildford may be divided into four parts. I. The Castle and Lands, occupying several acres where the principal part of the town now stand?. II. Lands since called the Manor of Poyle, given by William the Conqueror to the Testard family. t TIL Lands on the north' side of the town given to the Friary. IV. AH the domain remaining unalienated, called the King's Manor, converted into a park by Henry II., and now occupied as four distinct farms, called the Park farms. ANCIENT GUILDFORD. 19 Chronological ItabU. A. D. 900 3 901 < Kings. Guildford bequeathed by } Alfred's will to his ne-£ Alfred. phew Ethel wald. ) The town goes back to the crown at Ethelwald's rebellion, 905 Or at his death, Abt. 1017 1087 iElfrid's attendants mur- dered in the streets of ( ancient Guildford. Guildford mentioned the domesday book. in Abt. S 1 1 55 ^ Betw. J 210 & 1272 That part, since called the Manor of Poyle, ali- enated from the Crown to the Testard family. That part of the town unalienated by William the Conqueror converted into a park.. Edward the elder. Same King, Harold. surnamed Harefbot. William the Conqr. Same K ing. Henry II, The Friary founded Queen Eleanor. S Hen*y III. 20 THE CASTLE. THE CASTLE. The chief parts of this building originally occupied a considerable eminence to the south of the site of the present High Street, in which situation the Castle commanded the river beneath it on the west. Some few remains of the outer walls may yet be found in many places, particularly on the south side of the High Street: and several curious arches were taken away, in 1800, on the removal af some old houses which stood nearly as far as Trinity Church eastward. The cellars of the Angel Inn, and those of a private dwelling opposite, are treated of in Grose's Antiquities, and are well worthy of a a visit from every curious observer : it is conjectured that these were a part of the vaults belonging to the Castle. Several acres were included in the precincts of this once extensive fortress, in the middle of which stood the rudely constructed and then impenetrable Citadel. From its amaz- ing strength the disjoining hand of time has THE CASTLE. 21 been exercised upon this part of the structure with little effect, and the massive walls still remain to the height of the battlements, frown- ing with patriarchal dignity upon the adjacent scenery, which extends from the tastily laid out garden by which the keep is surrounded, to the distant hills that appear in faint outline upon the very verge of the horizon. Upon the top of the mound a neat summer- house has been recently erected by Mr. Elkins, the present occupant of the premises, and from this, a fine view of the ruins of St. Catherine's Chapel may be procured. They are seated upon a little green hill, from the base of which the river, overhung with a few alders, and passing through a valley of rich meadows, winds towards the town. The lover of the pic- turesque will never behold this varied and fertile prospect without pausing to meditate upon its beauty, .* * I have been advised by a literary gentleman, (for whose friendly criticism of my manuscript the reader, as well as myself, has cause to be thankful) to describe this beautiful scene more fully : but, as I shall have future occasion to call my reader's attention to the same scenery from a different point of observation, I am compelled, for the present, to forego the gratification of complying with his request. 22 THE CASTLE, The walls of the tower which stand upon the artificial mount just mentioned, are about ten feet in thickness at the bottom, and the foundations are of chalk mixed with flints: the superstructure is mostly composed of ragstone and Roman brick, disposed in the herring-bone fashion, and cemented together with mortar of amazing hardness. There were neither windows nor even loop holes on the ground floor ; but in the upper stories there was formerly one great window on each side near the middle : the rest of the windows are all breaches of modern times. The present entrance to the keep has been also made long since the days of its magnifi- cence : the original entrance may still be seen in the middle of the west front at a considera- ble height from the ground: it has a stone arch over the top, and was most probably approached by a staircase on the outside. Traces of the floor remain, upon a level with the bottom of this portal which is lower than the other windows, and this is a convincing proof that it was originally employed for the purpose we have alledged, and that that part on TrtE CASTLE. 23 a level with the modern entrance was the melan- choly dungeon of the captive, where, debarred the light of the cheerful sun, he watched the flickerings of his solitary lamp, and perhaps groaned away years of misery and despair. There was a circular staircase in the north- west corner, and there are still rooms or galle- ries, to which an easy access is now made, in the thickness of the wall, as at Rochester, for the more speedy communication of orders in case of a siege. One of these rooms is ten feet long by four wide, and about eight feet in height : it has a circular stone roof. On the wall are several rude figures of no very modern date cut in chalk. A description of them will be found in Note JB, which has been written for the gratification of the curious : for my own part I care little about them; for the majority of them are neither like any thing I have ever seen before or hope to see again. The most profound antiquary in the land can give no more than a guess at their origin, and my readers may as well amuse themselves with their own conjectures as with mine. On the south side, on the ground, and near £4 THE CASTLE* the south-east angle, is a very odd piece of fortification : it has the appearance of a false sally-port or entrance, where in fact there never was one : it is made to appear as if filled up with huge square stones like the re6t of the Castle, and to increase the deception, has machiolations over it as if to defend it from attacks. * These false sally-ports are to be found in many of the old Norman Castles, and are contrivances to mislead the besiegers by inducing them to attempt a breach under a specious appearance of succeeding : thus their labour would be wasted, and time given to the besieged. On the west of the keep, in Quarry Street, is an archway which stands upon the site of the ancient gateway of the Castle, where there was a portcullis. This structure may probably bear some resemblance to the original gate- way ; as it is said to have been re-built in 1 669 The roof of the Citadel was taken down about the year 1630. * A real machiolation is a military device resemblinsr a grate through which scalding water or other offensive matter may be discharged upon the heads of the assailants. TtlE CASTLE. 25 The date of building this Castle is not ascertained: in a recent publication relative to the County of Surrey, as well as in Speed, I find it mentioned as having been the re- sidence of the Saxon princes ; but no traces of it are to be met with in the Saxon Annals, nor is it noticed in the Domesday book : it is therefore pretty certain that it was not erected before the Conqueror's reign at the soonest. The following description, in my opinion* sets the matter at rest, for the ruins and traces of this Castle correspond with it so nearly, that few persons* save for the pleasure of differing in opinion from their neighbours, will care to affix an earlier date to this fortress than the period I have mentioned. " Norman Castles may be known by their having two courts, called the outer and inner ballium, surrounded by lofty Valiums or earth banks, the inner one surmounted by a stone wall with towers at certain distances, and sometimes the outer one had a wall and towers. Upon one side was a lofty keep or high hill of earth, having on the summit a circular or square tower. This keep was so situated that c 26 THE CASTLE. it could be ascended from both balliums* Within the inner bailium were the lodgings for soldiers and artificers, wells, chapels, and sometimes a monastery." Traces of the stone Wall of the inner bailium of Guildford Castle still remain in its vicinity, though the towers have long since disappeared : the keep still supports the majestic Citadel : which, as the outworks extended considerably to the north and east, must have stood near the south-west part of the fortification. From the above supposition that the Castle is of Norman origin, I am inclined to doubt that the town was ever made the residence of the Saxon princes, as no satisfactory evidence can be offered by those who espouse the vulgar opinion. In 1215, after the signing of Magna Charta at Runny mead, it is well known that King John retired to the Isle of Wight, and sent abroad emissaries to invite an army of foreignors into his service: it is known also that he procured a bull from the Pope, annull- ing the Charter he had been compelled to sign, and that afterwards, under the sanction of THE CASTLE. 27 this bull, as soon as he had collected his foreign forces, he threw off the mask, and let loose his rapacious mercenaries against the estates, tenants, houses, and parks of the nobility, burning villages and castles, and spreading consternation and misery around him, as if he had been in an enemy's country. Hereupon the Barons, reduced to desperation, offered to acknowledge Louis the eldest son of Philip King of France as their sovereign, and the young prince landed at Sandwich on the first of May, and having received the fealty of the Barons at London, continued his march westward, and, on the 9th of June following, obtained possession of Guildford Castle : this is the first account in which I can find any mention of that building. In 1226 William de Coniers was Constable here for King Henry III. In the time of Edward I. it seems to have been used as the common jail of the county : for, about this time, we find Henry de Say keeper of the King's prisoners here petitioning for their removal to a place of greater security, and that his request was not complied with. C 2 28 THE CASTLE. About the same period it seems to have been capable of being put into a state of defence, for forty-eight years after, in Edward the second's reign, when Thomas, the turbulent earl of Lancaster, and others were impatient to atchieve the destruction of the King's favorites, the Spencers, and had taken arms against them and their adherents, a writ was issued to the constable of this Castle, com- manding him to furnish it with provisions, and other necessaries for the King's service. In 40 Ed. III., when the town &c. were demised in fee-firm to the corporation, the Castle and gaol of the Castle were especially preserved, and, in the year following, the custody of it was committed to the Sheriff for a common gaol and place of residence for himself. In 1377 Sir Simon Burleigh, K. G. was constable here for Richard II.; after which time, says Mr. Manning, I find no notice of it till 9 James I. when the site of it with the appurtenances containing by estimation 5 acres, 3 roods, 10 per. was granted, by letters patent, to Francis Carter of Guildford, and it became, private property. THE CASTLE. 29 Lower down in Quarry Street, about two- hundred yards south-west of the Castle, is a suite of caverns excavated from the chalky cliff. * From the entrance, which faces to- wards the west, there is a small descent into a cave about forty-five feet long, twenty wide, and nine or ten feet high, from whence, on either hand, are two lower passages, nearly closed up by the fragments of fallen chalk : but by a plan made by Mr. Bunce in 1763, that on the north side stretches towards the north-west seventy-five feet, opening by de- grees from two to twelve feet, from this passage run five cavities of different sizes : their breadths are various, but all widen gradually from the entrance, from two to twenty-two feet. On the south side is another passage opening into a large cave shaped somewhat like the letter L, its breadth is upwards of thirty, and the length of its two sides together about one hundred and twenty feet. * These caverns, being considered in a dangerous state access to them is now prohibited, and the entrance closed up. c 3 30 THE CASTLE* Chronology Dates. In the reign of. The Castle first spoken of. 1 2 1 6 J — Louis the Dauphin 1226 takes possession of it on _ the ninth of June. ( William de Coniers Con- \ stable. John, Henry III. The Castle used as a com- mon jail : — Henry de Say, 1274<[ keeper of the King's pri- J> Edward I. soners, petitions for their removal. SA writ issued command- ing Oliver de Bourdeaux to furnish provisions, &c. for the King's service. C The town demised to the j gg^, ; Corporation and the Cas- \ tie and its Gaol reserved V to the crown. C Assigned to the Sheriff as 1368 < a Gaol and place of re-, f sidence for himself. Edw. II. Edw. III. Edw. III. 1377 \ Shimon Burleigh Con- > R R < stable. ) Castle became private^ j^ MES j 1612 property. I MANOR OF POYLE. 31 THE MANOR OF POYLE. This Manor took its name from Walter de la Puille, who, in 1279 ( 7 Edw. I.), held certain lands which had been granted by William the Conqueror to the Testard family, and which, having passed through several hands, came at last into his possession. In 3rd Charles I. (1603) Henry Smith, to whom the Poyle estate came by purchase, conveyed the fee and inheritance of the same to Robert Earl of Essex and others, in trust that the rents, &c. of the same should be re- ceived by the Mayor and approved men of Guildford for the time being, to be by them distributed among the poor of the town, ac- cording to orders made and instructions given by him in his life time. Further particulars will be found in a succeeding part of this volume under the article Charities. There is no doubt that this Manor took its name from the family of Puille or Poyle, as did also other lands and estates in and near this place, particularly Puille or Pewley hill 32 THE FRIARY. adjoining the town, and Poyle house in the parish of Sele. Chronology Dates. In the reign of. ( Estate granted to the ) 1J( r -w — < rv u i P -i ? William I. ( Testard family. ) ! OTQ ( Manor took its name from ) ^ T *~ W I Walter de la Puille. 5 ^ Dw - J * Conveyed by H. Smith V in trust that the rents, &c. 1 603 < should be received by the )> Charles I. # corporation & distributed amongst the poor. THE FRIARY of which no traces now remain, but which stood on the eastern bank of the river, and to the north of the High Street, was founded by Queen Eleanor, Consort to Henry III. Its tenants were Dominican or preaching Friars ; but in what year it was founded, and of what number it consisted is not known ; neither can we ascertain what were the revenues of this house, nor in what year it was surrendered. THE FRIARY. 33 We know, however, that after the dissolution of the Friary King Henry VIII. built a man- sion on the site of it, which mansion King- James I. demised to Sir George More of Losely. This building is said to have been afterwards pulled down and re-built by Mr. Austen, and again by the Earl of Annandale, who, about the year 1631, erected the mansion, which, at the building of the Barracks in 1794, was fitted up for the residence of the officers. When the Barracks were sold a few years since this building was taken down and the materials disposed of. Dates. In the reign of. — J El , ea r noJ? Unded ^ QU6en [ Henry 1IL — Mansion built on its site. Henry VIII. ( Said to have been pulled C — 1 down and re-built by < James I. ( Mr, Austen. f icon \ Granted in fee simple to > n T 1 630 I the Earl of Annandale. i Charles L 34 GUILDFORD PARK. Dates. In the reign of. , fi o, S Pulled down and re-built ) ni i L 'i • T 1631 Hy said Earl. \ Charles I. C Annexed to the Barracks C 1 794 < and fitted up for the re- 1 Geo. III. t sidence of the officers. f ^ ^{ Geo. III. THE KING'S MANOR. That part of the Royal domain of this place which remained unalienated by William I. and his successors, was known by the name of the King's Manor. Its distance from the capita rendered it a convenient place for retirement, and our princes in early times occupied it as such. The first step taken was by Henry II., who, shortly after his Coronation (1154), inclosed a considerable tract of land on the north side of Guild-down, and converted it into a park. In his time there was a mansion-house in the park, for he frequently kept his court here : and, as the domain was not inclosed in the time of his predecessors, it is probable that the mansion was first erected by him. A charter GUILDFORD J*ARK* 35 of his immediate predecessor, King Stephen, to the Abbey of Walden was indeed dated from Guildford ; but this might have been from the Castle, for it is certain that the Manor was not imparked till 1154, before which time it is hardly to be supposed that it had a Mansion upon it fit for a prince's reception. From the time that this became the occasion- al residence of our Kings, certain offices were filled by the tenants of the Crown lands in the neighbourhood. Thus Edeline daughter of Ranulph de Broc, as guardian of William Testard, in the time of Jtlenry II. held his lands ( afterwards called the Manor of Poyle) by the service of being Mareschallus in curia Regis, And Richard Testard, in 1242, was called Mareschallus in hospitid domini Regis, His duty was to provide laundresses for the household of the [King ; to dismember crimi- nals sentenced to death within the limits of the court, and to measure the gallons and bushels belonging to the same. Thomas de la Puille who purchased the estate of him held it by the same tenure. Richard the first spent little more than six $6 GUILDFORD PARK, months of his whole reign in England, and was too much Occupied to find leisure for enjoying the retirement of this place. His brother and successor, John, was twice here: the first time was at Easter 1199: the second at the close of the year 1200, when he kept his Christmas at this place with unusual magnificence and splendor. Henry III. beautified and enlarged the mansion at considerable expense. The stock of deer and other game was so considerable during the reign of this prince as to furnish the household when resident at other places. When prince Edward, afterwards King Ed- w r ard I., took Sir Adam Gordon prisoner, Henry was resident here, ( See Note C.) and towards the end of his reign we find many orders given for refitting and adorning the apartments: which circumstance will per- haps bear me out in the supposition that frequent use was made of this place by that monarch. In 1299 Margaret, the second wife of Edward I., received the Park and Manor in part of her dower: on her decease, about GUILDFORD PAVLK. 3? thirty years after, they went back to the crown. Documents of Edward III. who was fre- quently resident here, are also dated from this place. In a grant of this prince, 1366, by which he demised the town of Guildford with its appurtenances, in fee-firm, to the corpora- tion; the Park, as well as the Castle, was especially reserved : the custody or bailiship of it was three years afterwards given to Helming Legette* I find nothing to prove that Richard II. Henry IV. Henry V. or Henry VI. were ever at this Mansion : though the latter prince, in the twenty-second year of his reign, appointed two serjeants of his cellar to the office of parkership of Guildford; and, in his thirtieth year, made provision for the constant repair of the Manor, Lodges, and Bridges within the Park. As these reigns, up to the time of the order for repairing the Bridges, &c. include a period of eighty years, it is more than pro- bable that, during this time, the Mansion was suffered to go to decay : for I find no mention D £8 GUILDFORD PARK, of it, or any thing tending to prove its exis* tence, save Ryrtier^s assertion that Edward IV. was at Guildford in 1479 and 1482. Of the reigns of Edward V* and Richard III. (two months and two years) no doeument relating to the Manor or Park is to be found; In 3 Henry VIL Sir Reginald Bray had the custody of this Manor and Park assigned him, and in 37 Henry VIII. Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk died at Guildford. This latter event induced Mr. Manning to suppose that the King and his household were resident here at this time ; but the reader will please to remark that, though this were an authenticated fact, it would not at all militate against my sup- position that the old Manor-house was gone to decay : because, it is known that Henry VIIL built a new Mansion upon the site of the Friary, and it is not at all unreasonable to conclude that the Duke of Suffolk died there. Passing through the hands of several persons^ to whom grants were made in the reigns of Ed- ward VI. Mary, Elizabeth & James I. the Ma- nor, &c. together with the Friary of Guildford; GUILDFORD PARK. 39 the stock of Deer in the park, &c. was granted in fee simple Jby Charles I. in his sixth year, to the Earl of Annandale, who was by this grant empowered to dispark the lands, and the man- sion called the Friary was declared to be the principal house or lodge in the park. In 1709 the manor and park were sold to the Onslow family, and were soon after wholly disparked. They are now occupied as, four distinct farms into which they have been since divided. In a field qf one of these farms, near Henley Grove, an earthen pot was found in 1781, near the surface of the ground ; it was almost filled with pieces of burnt bone: & at the foot of an ancient Yew-tree on the same farm, some years since, a heart preserved in spirits was dug up. Dates. In the reign of. 1154 $ The R °y al domail * con-> HrWDV 1T UM \ verted into a park. \ Henry 1L I J 99 The King here at Easter. John. d2 40 GUILDFORD PARK. Dates. In the reign of. C The King kept his Christ. 1 200 < mas here with great splen- John. ' dor. 1224 \ md e£gTd! beaUtified \ Henry III. 1266 i Sir Adam Gordonbrought ) „ ,„ < prisoner to Guildford. J Margaret, the King's se- } cond wife, receives the j, j park and manor in part £ * ' of her dower. J 1317^ h f K P ark ' &C> g° h ™ k l Edw. II. \ to the crown. ) The park and Castle re- 1366< CIW ?' l a 5 Edw. III. —ant of the town to the ^ Corporation. £ Provision made for the} 1458 5 constant repair of the V Henry VI. manor, &c, 1479 1482 | The King at Guildford. £ Edw. IV. (Sir Reginald Bray go- ) H yn I vernor. 5 1546 Duke of Suffolk died here, Henry VIII, GUILDFORD PARK. 41 Dates. In the reign of. f Granted in fee-simple, } mo) W her A wi ^ th f F / ia / y ' > Charles L j&c to the Earl of An- i C nandale. j 1 709 Sold to the Onslow family. Anne. FIRM OF THE TOWN. In ancient times a part of the crown revenue consisted of the profits arising from assized rents, pleas, perquisites of courts, customs of goods, fairs, markets, &c. and these profits were called the Firm of the town or borough from whence they accrued. When an Earl was created, it was usual for the King, by charter of creation, to grant him one third of such proceeds and profits, arising, as well within the county at large, as in every borough within it : though it was customary, even at this early period, to reduce this pro- portion of rents, &c. to a certain sum, which was paid by the name of Creation money, either d 3 42 FIRM OE THE TOWN. by the Sheriff, or out of the Exchequer. In 1279 John Earl of Warren and Surrey claim- ing one third of the tolls and customs of Guildford, this claim was tried before the King's Justices here, and one third of such tolls adjudged and confirmed to him as his right. At the marriage of Edward I. with Margaret of France his second queen, in 1 299, the re- maining two thirds of the firm formed a part of her dower, together with the park and manor of which I have before spoken as being at that time in her possession. The park, manor, and two thirds of the firm reverted to the crown at her decease. In 40 Edward III. the town with its appur- tenances ; excepting the Park, Castle, and gaol of the Castle ; was demised to the corporation at the annual rent of ten pounds. James I. in 1609, granted the firm to Sir Francis Wolley and Lionel Rawlins, of whom it was purchased by the corporation for two hundred pounds, and vested in them and their successors ; the Mayor and approved men of Guildford, for ever. FIRM OF THE TOWN. 43 €ftrottologg* Dates. In the reign of. Third penny of the coun- wtrAnd ^H-KV ill. Surrey. The Earl of Warren and Surrey claims one third of 1279 the tolls and customs of V Edw. I. Guildford, which claim is allowed. C Remaining 1 two thirds} 1299 2 form a part of Queen > Edw. I. f Margaret's dower. ) lQ1 - 4© m ised I to the corporation. 1609 ^ ^ m °f town granted } Julv i t0 S * r ' ^°N e y ana * £ James I. ^ ( another. 5 ^S&T 1 ^ thCCOr 1 James I. 44 OF THE TOWN OF THE TOWN IN GENERAL. Geldeford, Gildford, Guldeford, or Guild- ford, one of the best inland towns of its size in the kingdom, and the most singularly ro- mantic in Surrey, is for the most part seated upon the descent of a considerable hill which rises from the eastern bank of the river Wey. It consists principally of one long Street, reaching from the Bridge, on the west, to Stoke (which is in fact a continuation of the same Street) on the east : it is the county town of Surrey, and is in the Hundred of Woking. The declivity upon which it stands, with the houses on the hill to the west, gives it a very commanding appearance, whilst the broad footway, which a shower of rain will make as clean as the flag-stones of an Alder- man's kitchen, and the neat edifices, and no- table looking shops that on either side approach the bottom of the hill, give to the whole an air of comfort which makes an inhabitant proud to say, this is my home ! IN GENERAL. 45 The air is exceedingly clear and wholesome, and in the dullest nights of November the pure breeze of the hill leaves little fog to lurk in the Streets of this comfortable town ; and the gas-lights burn as brilliantly, and as cheerfully as if it were the month of July. The population was 3161 at the census of 1821 ; since which time it must have been considerably upon the increase : though not so much so as in many places far inferior in point of beauty and natural, as well as other advantages. The adjoining neighbourhood affording the most captivating prospects, and enriched with some of the finest arable and pasture lands in Surrey ; its convenient distance from the Me-, tropolis, and the great plenty of building materials furnished from the brick manufac- tories and immense quarries of chalk in the vicinity ; the facility afforded by the Wey of procuring other requisites from London ; and the Canal branching from the Arun, by means of which Slates might be imported from Wales at a cheap rate; together with an excellent iron-foundry; ofTer the most alluring prospects to speculators in building : and it is matter of 46 OF THE TOWN surprise, considering the improvements that have been made in the existing town, that no enterprising capitalist has endeavoured to ex-* tend its limits. The City of Bath has few advantages which this little spot cannot boast : and it needs only the exertions of a few wealthy individuals, furnished as it is with a fine chalybeate spring, to render it, in process of time, as celebrated as that famous City. The town hall stands on the north side of the High Street, and is adorned with a neat turret : it has a good Clock, with a dial of two faces projecting into the Street. The clock was given, many years since by a Mr. John Ay lward for his freedom : and the bell on which it strikes formerly belonged to the Chapel of Saint Martha, distant about two miles from the town; and was removed from that place when the inhabitants of Chilworth had become too pious to need its echoes to call them to the perform- ance of their devotions. This building was erected in 1683, when the old market house was taken down. IN GENERAL*. 47 On the walls of the Hall, besides the town Arms, &c. hang whole length portraits of James I. Charles it. and James II. (the two latter painted by Sir Peter Lely) William III. and (iueen Mary. On the south wall is a portrait of the late speaker Onslow, and a very excellent painting of Admiral Sir J. Russell receiving the Dutch flag, after the victory in 1797. This picture was executed by John Russell, R. A. a native of this town, and pre- sented by his father. This hall forms, once in two years, one of the courts of Assize for the Home-circuit: the other is holden in a court-house at the back of the new market house. The County and Town Quarter Sessions are also held here. The Council chamber is a large room over the south part of the town-hall. The Chimney piece was brought from Stonghton in Stoke, when the old family seat was taken down : upon it are some well carved figures of stone partially gone to decay. Under the first group is the word SANGUI- NEUS: the subject is a lover and his mistress : under the second partition, whicf* 4& Of THE TOWN represents a Warrior surrounded by the im- plements of warfare, kCHOLERICUS: the third bears the incription PHLEGMATI- CUS, (and the subject of it is sitting in a boat, looking as intelligently as one of the fishes with which his vessel is about to be freighted :) and the fourth MELANCHOLY CUS, where you may see a perfect picture of despair, written upon one of the most woe- begone countenances that ever afforded a study for the sculptor. Over the mantle piece are the Arms of Eng- land, of Edward the Confessor, of Archbishop Abbott and of the town. This room is used by the Justices of the County, who hold a bench here once a fortnight, The corn market house is a commo- dious, modern structure, standing opposite the town-hall in the High Street. It was begun in 1818, and the first stone was then laid, with much ceremony, by Joseph Haydon, Esquire, Mayor at that time. This edifice was built by subscription amongst the inhabitants, assist- ed by the farmers who frequented the Market. The fund thus raised tame by some means into IN GENERAL. 49 the hands of the corporation, and was appropri- ated by them; they undertaking to carry on the erection of the building, which they did at considerably additional expense. The market held here is said to be one of the best in England : and is too generally known in the county at large, to need any comment I might be disposed to offer. The vegetable market house & sham- bles ; the former once a court-house, and the latter a cock-pit ; stand in a small Street near the Town-hall : and are well supplied every Wednesday and Saturday with butcher's meat, and the produce of the neighbouring farm- yards and gardens. Swine are sold every Saturday opposite the Trinity Church: and a Lamb-market is held, lower down in the High Street, every Tues- day, from the Tuesday before Good Friday till the May fair, and on alternate Tuesdays from that time till the month of July. Two annual fairs are holden in Guildford : one on the 4th and 5th of May, and the other on the 22nd and 23rd of November ; the first e 50 OF THE TOWN is famous for Sheep which are sold in the* parish of Saint Nicholas, within the boundaries of the town. Horses and Oxen are sold in the North Street at both fairs — and the middle part of the town is occupied by the stalls of pedlars and confectioners ; caravans of j ugg- lers and giants ; fairfolks, beggars, black-legs, and ballad-singers. Places op worship. Besides the three Churches, Guildford has a neat Meeting-house of the society of Friends in North Street ; a chapel of Independents, and another of Cal- yanistic Methodists in Chapel Street; and a small Meeting-house of particular Baptists in the south town ditch* A house of correction for the County is situate on a hill at the back of the Castlej and upon one of the healthiest spots that could well have been selected in a neighbourhood where no part is unhealthy : it contains a tread- mill, is capable of containing 80 prisoners, and is allowed to be one of the best regulated pris- ons in Great Britain. The erection was com- pleted in 1822, when the old prison in Quarry Street was converted into a private residence. IN GENERAL. 51 The bridge over the Wey has been recent- ly much improved ; and though some unneces- sary expenses were perhaps incurred at its alteration, a graceful and durable structure has been produced in room of one of the clumsiest pieces of Architecture that ever dis- graced a civilized place of residence. The gassometer stands in the parish of Saint Nicholas, on the western bank of the Wey. It is but a small one, being capable of containing only 12988§ cubic feet of gass : but this quantity is thought to be sufficient for lighting the streets and shops, as well as the private residences of such of the gentry, and share-holders as may be pleased to admit it into their houses. ( See Note D.) Engine and reservoir. The inhabitants are well supplied with water from an engine, which was originally erected at the foot of the town bridge, by a Mr. Yarnold, and afterwards removed by him to a small spot of ground near the Fulling Mills ; * he having obtained * These mills stood upon the site of the present flour mills, near Saint Mary's Church. E 2 52 OF THE TOWN a lease of its site for 900 years, with the use of the mill-wheel, liberty to enter the fulling* mills to look after and amend the machinery, and the privilege to lay pipes in the mills and under the bridges. By this engine the water is thrown into a reservoir at the foot of Pew ley-hill, and passes thence through pipes into most of the respec-i table houses of the town. Places of amusement. The Theatre, the internal part of which is very neatly fitted up, is in the same Street as the Vegetable Market-* house, and is occasionally attended by a company of performers under the manage- ment of Mr. Barnett, Lessee of the Oxford and other Theatres. Astronomical Lectures, &c« are sometimes delivered here. The lovers of athletic exercises may find amusement in an excellent subscription Bowl- ing-green near the Castle, and in a spacious Cricket-ground at the bottom of North Street, where the barracks lately stood. Paving. The paving of the town was for some time kept in repair by an allowance of one penny upon every load of timber, &c. IN GENERAL. 53 carried on the navigation : * but in 52 Geo. III. an Act was obtained for re-paving the town throughout, and levying a tax upon the inhabitants. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION RELA- TIVE TO THE TOWN. I have thought proper before taking leave of this part of my Work, to notice a few instances, which, though of little importance themselves, serve to mark the manners of former times, and to lead us to compare them with our own. They will, I doubt not, be interesting to my fellow townsmen, and if the general reader does not care to waste his time about them, he has only to turn to the next article, which will be found within a very few pages. I have never heard that Guildford was very famous for its chivalry, but it is most certain that in the reign of Henry III. about the year 1 246, several persons had agreed to meet here to hold a tourney "on the Monday after the Octaves of the close of Easter," and that the In 1794 it amounted to £124 12 6, E 3 54 OF THE TOWN King-, in consequence of the precautions he was obliged to take to secure peace, prohibited the meeting, and sent the Abbot of Waver ly and the Prior of Newark to forbid the same ; for at this time the noblemen assembling under colour of military exercises, were wont to enter into combinations against the crown, or to foment disturbances amongst themselves to the annoyance of the public tranquility. An instance of the unwillingness of Henry III. to commit a private injury will be found in the following account. Some time after the event just alluded to, the King having removed his mills from their ancient site in the parishes of Saint Mary and Saint Nicholas to a place lower down in the river, near the gate which opened into the park, to the prej udice of the Abbess of Wherwell and others who had a mill on the west side of the river, near the lower Church; and also to the prejudice of Sir Richard Testard, whose mill stood on the opposite side of the river ; (which mills Were obstructed by the head of water raised at the King's mills) his Majesty ordered certain sums to be paid to the injured parties : but this and IN GENERAL. 55 further attempts to accomodate the complain- ants not proving satisfactory, he suffered his mills to be entirely disused. The next circumstance does not say so much for this monarch's liberality. "In 34 Henry III. 1250 the Sheriff, with Peter de London, Clerk, were ordered to see that the King's wines which were to be sold at Guildford, be sold ; and they were not to permit any other wines to be sold in the baili- wick till these were sold : and they were to bring the money to the wardrobe." The following tradition refers to a much later period, and certainly savours a little of the ridiculous ; but, as it relates to the pre- decessors of our respected body corporate, I advise all true and loyal subjects to peruse it with becoming gravity and decorum. In the blissful days of our ancestors it was a custom that every person admitted to the corporation should not only give a Breakfast to his new brethren, but also entertain them with a hull-running t on which occasion cer- tain persons were elected to officiate in this magisterial amusement, and, in default of 56 OP THE TOWN compliance, subjected to what was then a severe penalty. Thus, in 6 Henry VIII. several per- sons were elected on the Leet or law-day after the feast of Saint Hilary, for the purpose of baiting the bull, under pain of forfeiting 20s. a piece; and this was the solemn Act and deed of the magistracy. — It should however be remarked, that in those days when the worshipful corporation amused themselves with baiting the bull, they were unaccustomed to bait the bailiff as is the practice in this age of refinement; for I find no account of his then giving more on his admission than a Breakfast ; and now it is impossible to be duly initiated into the august body without becom- ing the founder of four sumptuous feasts in the course of the probationary twelve month. During the same reign, when an act was passed for the appointment of twenty-six suff- ragan Bishops, Guildford was constituted one of the new sees. These appointments not being so necessary as was deemed at the establish- ment of protestantism, they soon fell into disuse. I find no record to prove that an ap- pointment to the Guildford bishoprick did ever take place. IN GENERAL. 5? A singular custom prevailed at this period of appointing annually a summer king, prince, and sword bearer, for each parish, and by an order of the Leet 27 Henry VIII. it was pro^ vided that if the young men chosen to fill these offices should refuse to accept them, they should pay certain specified fines to the parish Church. This appears to have been one of those ludicrous institutions which were not uncommon in former days, but which cannot be traced to their origin. This custom has not yet gone entirely into disuse; for at Aldershot and some other places near Farnham, a Mayor is annually elected, and appointed to his office with many mock ceremonies and solemnities. On the Leet day 30 Henry VIII. certain persons were nominated, with an account of the harnes they were to provide, to serve the King in the Wars. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the town was in great repute for its manufacturies of woollen cloth, and, by an order of the corpo- ration, every alehouse keeper was obliged to have a sign board, with a woolsack painted upon it hung up at his door, under a penalty of 6s t 8d, in case of neglect. 58 OF THE TOWN In 1650 an order was made for paving the High Street: and in 1672 the Shambles were removed, and the place where they stood was levelled and paved to correspond with the rest of town. The Watch and lamp Trustees were first appointed in 1759, and empowered to levy a rate, not exceeding one shilling in the pound. There was, within the memory of many old residents in the town, a cock-»pit in the Red Lion gateway. In 1800 it was converted into a market-house for butter, eggs, and poultry ; and is now used as butcher's shambles. The old gaol, now a private dwelling house as before stated, was re-built in 1765. Debtors used to be confined in the town hall, under the Council chamber : afterwards a prison, together with a residence for one of the Serjeants at mace, was built in the garden of the town hall. A new residence for this servant of the corporation, and the 'necessary places of confinement were erected at the back of the new Market-house in 1819. There was formerly a fish-cross near the Angel Inn, and the butcher's shambles before spoken of were nearly opposite. IN GENERAL* 59 Dne of the courts of Assize used to be made of a room taken out of the Three Tuns Inn : this room was originally constructed out of two tenements belonging to the free-school, which tenements stood under a part of the Inn: it was used at other times as a wheat market-house ; but not being of sufficient ca- pacity, much corn was pitched for sale in the street* In 1789 Lord Onslow and Lord Grantley purchased the Red Lion Inn, and on part of the ground built a room 40ft. by 30, and 20ft. high, which was used as a court house instead of the room aforesaid, till the new one was built* when it was converted into a market house for vegetables. The Street of Guildford was first paved in the 45th Elizabeth, when all persons were at their own charge to pave before their doors in the High Street — 8ft. in breadth, under a penalty of twenty shillings. In 1 650 when the order was made for pitching the High Street, the inhabitants were to main- tain three yards at least from their residences : the rest of the Street to be kept in repair by the Way-wardens. w> i'Hfc CORPORATION, THE CORPORATION. It is not known by which of the ancient Kings the privileges of this body were first conferred; but, if, as I have supposed, the town obtained its present name from some Gild formerly established here, it must have possessed them from the time of that establish- ment : because the grant of a Gild-merchant from the King is sufficient to establish a cor- poration by prescription for ever : and, as the town has certainly been known by its present name from the days of Alfred, we may safely conclude that Guildford has been a corporate town from the period of that prince's reign. A charter of Henry III. is the most ancient upon record ; but it speaks of the approved- men as an existing body at the time it was granted : the curious who examine this docu- ment may enquire why the term corporation is not used in it ; the answer is that this word did not come into use till about the reign of Henry VI. more than 150 years after. THE CORPORATION 61 The County court was appointed to be held here by a second charter of the same prince : and this was made the stibject of general com- plaint, and represented as such, on account of the removal of the court from Leatherhead to a place so near the extremity of the County. The effect of this remonstrance does not ap- pear ; but a charter of confirmation, 7. Edward I. proves that this privilege was yielded to Guildford: and from this period we must, without doubt, consider it the County town of Surrey. Further privileges were conferred by Ed- ward III. in whose reign the town was granted to the Approved men, at ten pounds per annum, for ever, saving to the King and his heirs the Castle, the gaol the of Castle, & the King's park. In 7. Richard II. the townsmen, having lost their Charters during the late insurrections, petitioned for their restoration ; and the prayer of their petition was granted upon payment of a small fine for their carelessness. The privileges of the corporation were con- firmed by Henry VI. and again by Henry VII. when the title of mayor was conferred upon 62 THE CORPORATION the chief Magistrate, who had been hitherto called SeneschalL The power to hold two fairs was also granted by the King 7 s letters patent, and the inhabitants were exempted from serving on Juries at Quarter Sessions and Assizes for the County. In the reigns of Henry VIIL Edward VL and Elizabeth, former grants were confirmed, and James I. by letters patent, granted the commis-* sion of the peace to the corporation. In the reign of Charles II. as was the fashion of the time, some oppressions were practised, and on the 3rd April, 1 686, — 2. James IL Guildford was made the subject of one of that Monarch's wise experiments, and was compelled to resign its charters, and become incorporated anew, by the stile of the Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Council, with a Chief Steward, Recorder, Bailiff, and Town Clerk. By this Charter the commission of the peace was extended through the whole adjoining parish of Stoke, former privileges were confirmed, and certain persons were appointed to, or continued in their res- pective offices; the old fox of a Monarch re- serving to himself the power of removing them THE CORPORATION. 63 for any reasonable cause ! — Now it is clear that the Charter was granted de novo for the pur- pose of inserting the latter clause, for, in 1 687, the King, by order of Council, removed Thomas Smith, then Mayor, and others from their respective offices, and appointed Sir Hugh Tint and other persons to succeed them. By another order, dated 1 9th April follow- ing, John Child and John Martyr, Aldermen, and others, together with John White, Esq. Recorder, and Leonard Child, Town Clerk, were displaced in like manner, and others ap- pointed in their stead. But the affairs of this weak and tyrannical prince growing desperate, he was compelled to publish a proclamation for restoring Corporations to their ancient rights, when Smith and the rest were re-instated in their respective offices, and the new Char- ter annulled. From this time the Corporation has subsisted as it was left by James I. The Approved men consist of eight Alder- men (three of whom, besides the Mayor, act as Magistrates) and an indeterminate number of Bailiffs. The Mayor is elected on the first Monday in October, out of the eight Magistrates f 2 64 THE CORPORATION. if their number be complete ; if not from the Bailiffs, and in this case he continues an Alder- man for life, and is eligible to serve the office of Magistrate. A new Bailiff is elected every year when the Mayor is chosen. The other members of the Corporation are the Recorder, * High Steward, and Town Clerk, X with their servants, two Serjeants at mace, and a Beadle, who are elected annually. The peace officers of the town are elected at the January Sessions, and consist of two Tas- ters of fish and flesh, two Constables, three Tythingmen, two Tasters of bread and ale, and a Coal-meter : the latter office is held by the Beadle. An Alderman or Bailiff elected Mayor, and refusing to serve, was by an order of the Cor- poration subjected to a certain fine: but the Court of King's Bench now grants a mandamus to compel the service, and has unlimited power to inflict pecuniary fines and long imprison- * Arthur Onslow, Esquire, M. P. to whom this little volume is by permission dedicated, was elected to this office on the 5th July, 1819. J The present High Steward is Lord Grantley > and the Town Clerk Mr. Joseph Hockley. THE CORPORATION* 65 ments in case of refusal, A person chosen to be Bailiff receives certain fees, and gives four dinners; or should he fine into the Corporation, pays £60. and gives one dinner. The Mayor's staff was given by Queen Elizabeth, and is of Ebony with a Silver top. The Gold chain was a present from Arthur Onslow, Esquire, of West Clandon, who was High Steward in 1673. The large mace was given by Henry Howard, afterwards Duke of Norfolk, and High Stew- ard in 1663. €fmrooioag* Dates. In the reign of ( Guildford most probably } 880 < governed as a corporate > Alfred. ( town V r The most ancient Charter ~\ 1256 1 upon record, relating* tof TT TTT ...7) the Government of the < Henry 111 * town, granted. j 1256 { ^ ount y Court appointed 1 7 ? to be held here by another > Henry III. •"'{Charter. } , Q7Q ( A Charter of confirma- ) ^ T 1279 |tion granted. ^Edward I. e 3 66 THE CORPORATION. Dates. In the reign of. ! 3 !l|!tS^ P rivile ^ es con 'l Edw. III. ^ i ierrecl. W C The town, except the } 1366 < Castle, &c. demised to> Edw. III. t the approved men. ) 1383 Lost Charters restored. Richard II. 1423 \ P ri fege S and immimi- ) fl y , I ties further confirmed. ) C Title of Chief Governor } 1488 < changed to Mayor, &c. > Henry V1L (&c. ) 1 ^!Sr m 0 eV hetown ' &c iH ENR wm 1580 The same re-confirmed, Elizabeth. — Mayor's staff presented, Elizabeth. i nnr> ( Commission of the peace > T , X, x 1603 1 granted. \ James L His Majesty's commission sent to Sir F. Vincent & i ceo J others to remove certain t n K members who refused to > take oaths under the new act, and to appoint others. THE BOROUGH, 67 Dates. In the reign of. , aaQ ( Large mace given by the > r TT 1663 \ Higt Steward. $ Chas. II. r Gold chain presented by ^ 1673 ? Arthur Onslow. Esquire, V Chas. II. £ of West Clandon. ) ( Guildford compelled to \ 1686? r ig " Charter f' , and { James II. } become incorporated a- C V new. 3 SThe Mayor and others} removed from their offi ces ^ James II by the King, and other C _ persons appointed. j f Corporations restored to \ 168 lV h T^ an ^ nt J rivil T S, > James II. . . .8y and the old Mayor, &c. C (• re-appointed. j She Borough has sent two Members to Parliament since 23 Edward I. (1295) excepting at the time of the Commonwealth, when Cromwell increased the number of knights for shires, and Guildford, like many other boroughs, returned only one. The privilege of voting at elections for mem- bers to serve in Parliament is confined to the 68 PARISHES. CHURCHES, freemen and freeholders of the borough, pay- ing scot and lot, and resident within it. * This place gives title to the Earl of Guildford. The town is divided into three parishes: that in the east part of the town being called by the appellation of the Holy Trinity ; that on the west, Saint Nicholas ; and the part of the town between the two, the parish of the blessed Virgin Mary. Vrtm'tg CiiutcH stands upon the very summit of the hill in the east part of the town : it is a neat modern structure, and is built of red brick, having a square tower 90 feet high, at the west end. It contains eight bells, whose echoes, as heard amongst the distant hills, are peculiarly attrac- tive and musical. The first stone of the Church was laid in 1749 ; but divine service * The present members are Arthur Onslow, Esquire, who has represented the town from 5th October, 1812, and George Chapell Norton, Esquire, who was first returned for this town at the late election. CHURCHES. 61> was not performed in it till 1763. The old Church, which stood upon its site, was thrown down by the wisdom of some of oiir an- cestors ; who took away certain arches and pillars which supported the steeple, being desirous of improving the building, and soon after found out that it was in a very dangerous condition : the truth of this discovery was afterwards proved, if not to the satisfaction, at any rate, to the conviction of all parties. It was however used for the purpose of worship on 20th April, 1740, and on the 23rd down fell the steeple, beating in the roof with such vio- lence that, as some say, "by the compression of the air all the glass windows were blown out as if it had been done by a blast of gun- powder ! " The workmen had but just quitted the spot, and, although it was fair-day, no person re- ceived the slightest injury. In the old History from which the above marvellous account is extracted, it is said that the Church-wardens began to build the new Church without sufficient funds. I need not therefore seek further to account for the slow 70 CHURCHES. progress that was made in its erection. This was surely a bad precedent of our greatgrand- fathers : our fellow townsmen of the present day, will of course take care to guard against similar short-sighted speculations. The old Church was probably built by some of the Testard family for the use of their te- nants. It contained a chantry called Norbrigge and Kingeston's chantry, which was endowed with certain lands, that have been in the hands of the Corporation from the days of Edward VI, and are still known by the name of the chantry lands. There was also another chantry in this Church, founded by the Weston family of Sutton. In the original Church were several ancient monuments, some of which are re-erected in the new one. My limits will not permit me to enter into a minute description of them. 1 must not however omit to notice the stately monument of Archbishop Abbott, which stood in Our Ladxfs Chapel in the old Church, and is now placed at the east end of the new south aisle. The figure of the Archbishop is lying at full length in his episcopal robes, on an CHURCflES. 7l altar tomb, under a canopy supported by six black marble pillars. There are two figures in niches at the east end of the monument* and nine others on the top. There is also a fine monument erected to the memory of The Right Honorable Arthur Ons- low, Speaker of the House of Commons, upon another altar tomb of freestone. The effigy of the late Speaker is attired in a Roman habit, his left arm reclining upon several volumes from which issue two scrolls, bearing inscrip- tions^ that may as well be read by inquiring visitors frota the monument itself, as from this book. The benefice of the Rectory of the Holy Trinity parish is in the deanery of Stoke. By an Act in 1699, this Church and that of Saint Mary were united as one presentative Church. The advowsons of the old Holy Trinity Church and Saint Mary's just mentioned, were given by William Testard, Lord of the Manor, afterwards called Poyle, to the priory of Mer- ton. At the dissolution of that convent the patronage w ent to the crown * CHURCHES. &atnt ittar^g ©Hurtfv which is situate on the declivity of the hill, a little to the south of the High Street, is a very ancient and rudely built structure, and is sup- posed also to have been erected by some of the Testard family for the use of their tenants. The building consists of a nave with 2 aisles, and a chancel with a chapel on each side of it. The tower stands a little to the east of the centre, and contains six bells which were cast in 1764. In 1755 the parish, with the Rector's consent, agreed to lay part of the church-yard into the street, and it was done : within these last three years a part of the building itself was pulled down to widen the carriage way which passes it on the east. In this Church was founded two gilds, or fraternities, as appears by the will of Henry Freke, who in 1492 bequeathed certain monies to them : they were called the Fraternity of Jesus, and the Fraternity of the body of christ. Here was also a chapel dedicated to St. John ; for John Jefferson of this place, clothman, in * CHURCHES. 73 his will, dated 1547, directed his body to be buried there. The benefice is a Rectory in the deanery of Stoke, and was, as before stated, united to that of the Holy Trinity in 1^99. The register of this parish begins in 1540, 31 Henry VIII. Jbamt Stcfioiag' fffiurtft stands on the western bank of the river, near the bridge : like that of Saint Mary's it is a rudely built edifice: it consists of a nave and two aisles under three different roofs. At the west end is a square, stone tower, containing eight bells ; and on the south side is a Chapel belonging to the Manor of Losely, and sepe- rated from the body of the Church by a wooden screen. The proximity of this place of worship to the river renders it very damp and uncomfortable. Some years since the floor in time of flood was completely covered with water: in 1799,- — 1800 a floor of boards was laid 2 feet 9 inches above the old stone floor. The entrance was formerly on the north side. o 74 abbot's hospital. On a brass plate in the Church, and on the north wall, is an account of the birth, parent- age, education, and decease of Caleb Lovejoy ; and on another brass plate, lower down, are some curious verses, said to have been written by himself. In Losely Chapel are several monviments deserving the attention of visitors. Several of the families of the Mores and Molyneuxs lie buried in this place* The benefice is a Rectory in the deanery of Stoke : the advowson belongs to the Cathedral Church of Salisbury, and the presentation is in the Dean. Abbot'* PtogjHtaL Nearly opposite the Upper or Holy Trinity Church stands this building: it is composed of red brick, and has four square turrets over the entrance, which is a spacious archway having- round it the words deus nobis h^ec otia fecit." * Within the entrance is a square Court-yard : on the west side of which * God gave to us this place of rest. abbot's hospital. 75 the brethren are lodged : the east side is occu- pied by the sisters. The master has several very handsome apartments, some of which he occasionally lets for Lectures and other public purposes. There are also two large kitchens, and good cellars under the whole building. A large garden belongs to the house, and is walled round, and kept in admirable order. At the north-east corner is a convenient Chapel ; it contains two large gothic windows of painted glass. The north-west window is divided into four compartments, and the subjects are as follow. I. Isaac sending Esau to take him venison. II. Rebecca instructing Jacob how to supplant his brother. HI. Isaac in bed giving his blessing to Jacob. IV. Esau returning with the venison, and re- senting his brothers artifice. In the east window are five compartments. I. Jacob sleeping, and the Angels ascending and descending from Heaven, as seen in his vision. II. iaban and Jacob's interview at the well of Haran, with Rachel in the distance. Q 2 76 THE FREE SCHOOL. III. Jacob, his wives, and children. IV. The covenant between Jacob and Laban on Mount Gilead. V. Jacob praying at Mahanaim, and waiting for his brother Esau. In this chapel hang a half-length picture of the Archbishop, an excellent portrait of Sir Nicholas Kemp, by Paul Vansomer, and a painting of Aldef man Jackson, one of the be- nefactors, by J. Russell, R. A. See article Charities. tfit &vct &rfiooi, An ancient, and any thing but tasteful building stands on the south side of Spital Street.^-It contains a genteel residence for the master, a spacious school-room and a good library. The schooUhouse, with the great chamber and gaw»et over % was erected by the Corpo- ration wftli assistance from the other inhabitants of the town in 1 557. In 1 569 the apartments for the upper Master were built by contribu- tion, and tfhose of 'the under Master, together with a gallery connecting the two, were begun CHARITIES. 77 in 1571. But the two members of the Corpo- ration, who had undertaken this work, dying shortly after, nothing more was done till 1582, when the under Master's apartments were completed. In 1586 the apartments for the upper Master were finished, and the gallery, which had been left uncovered, and was totally gone to decay, was thoroughly repaired and converted into a Library. A benefaction of Arthur Onslow Esquire in 1 648 is commemorated by an inscription on the inner wall of the Library. On the front of the building are the Royal Arms, and underneath in capitals of Gold. SCHOLA REGIA GRAMM ATIC ALIS EDVARDI SEXTI, 1550. Further particulars will be found in the succeeding article. CHARITIES. The Charities in this place are so numerous, that I have judged it my duty to treat of them somewhat at length, and under a seperate head. I have endeavoured to procure the best accounts of them all, and have entered g 3 78 CHARITIES. into as full detail as my confined limits would permit : because, though I write for the general reader, I feel it a duty due to my fellow towns- men to afford them the best information in my power, upon a subject, which is, or ought to be, of much interest to every one of them. I shall begin with Robert Beckingham, Citizen Grocer of London, laid the first foundation of a Free School in Guildford, by giving a house and garden adjoining to the Castle-ditch during his life time ; and at his death the White Hart public house at Bromley, in Kent, and certain lands at Newington.* The proceeds of these estates were augmented by the Corporation, and in 1520 they erected a School-house for the uses of this Charity in the Castle Ditch. The School continued without an increase of benefactions for 50 years. In 1550 two tenements in Guildford were given by Henry Polsted, Esq. of Albury. * These lands were afterwards lost by some mismanagement. CHARITIES. 79 In 1552—3, King Edward VI. by letters patent, granted a rent-charge of twenty pounds a year issuring out of lands, &c. at Great Bookham, Stoke d'Abemon, Battersey, and Wandsworth. By these letters the Mayor and Approved men were impowered, with the advice of the Bailiff of the King's Manor at Guildford, to appoint the Upper and Under Masters of the School as often as vacancies should occur, and to make, with the advice of the Bishop of Winchester, statutes in writing for the ordering, governance, and direction of the Master and scholars, the appointment of proper salaries, &c. The office of Bailiff ceasing on the alienation of the Manor, 6 Charles I. the nomination of Master, &c. is now in the Mayor and Approved men only. Two or three years after the King's grant, the School-house in Spital Street, and the rest of the buildings belonging to the same, were erected by contributions and donations from different persons. In 1574, John Parkhurst, Bishop of Norwich, who was educated here, besides his contribution 80 CHARITIES. to the building expenses, bequeathed to the Library all his books on Divinity, the English ones excepted. A great number of other contri- butors of books, or money to be expended in the purchase of books, have succeeded that of the worthy Bishop, and an excellent Library has been formed by their liberality. In 1574 — 5, William Hammond, Esquire, a zealous friend to the establishment, purchased of Thomas Stoughton, Esquire, the perpetual advowson of the benefice of Stoke, with the design of annexing the Rectory to the office of Master; and gave the same by his will to Anthony Viscount Montacute, and the Corpo- ration, in trust to present it, when vacancies occurred, to the Master of the School. It proved afterwards that this advowson was one of the settled estates of the Stoughton family, and consequently that the conveyance to Mr. Hammond was not valid, Laurence Mr. Stoughton's son being under age. To remedy this defect a legal arrangement was entered into, by which it was agreed that the presentation should be made jointly, but in the manner intended by Mr. Hammond. CHARITIES. 81 By virtue of this settlement, the benefice was actually enjoyed by two of the Masters. But Nicholas Stoughton, the son and heir of Laurence, unwilling that the Loaves and Fishes should be lost from his family, left a rent charge to the Corporation of £6. 13. 4. a year, on condition that they should relinquish their title : to which the latter consented with con- currence of the most interested person, the then Master. In 1584—5, Richard Webb of Littleton, Carpenter, gave a house, &c. at Stoke, situate over against the School-house : and in 1 586 Alice Polsted gave a rent-charge of £3. 6. 8. out of her lands, &c. in London, Middlesex, and Essex. At the same time many other contributions were made, and expended in erecting and re- pairing different parts of the building. In 1648 Arthur Onslow, Esquire, father of Richard the first Lord Onslow, gave eight oaks to make new classes for the books, &c. In the year 1691, John Nettles, Gent, of Saint Mary's parish, left 11 acres of land to his daughter for life, and after her decease to 82 CHARITIES. Sir Richard Onslow, Bart, and to the heir male of his family, in trust to pay the rents towards the maintenance of a Scholar (being the son of a freeman of the Corporation) at Oxford or Cambridge, for the term of seven years ; he having been previously fitted for the University at this School : such scholar to receive all arrears due for want of former claim- ants, at the time of his admission. The can- didate is to be examined, and his qualification certified by the Master of the School, the Rector of Saint Nicholas and the Rector of Stoke, or any two of them ; and his appoint- ment signed by the Trustee of the Onslow family for the time being. The funds of this Charity were at one time esteemed sufficient to educate one hundred boys : at present there are only six on the foundation : but they receive a general educa- tion, though, by the original endowment, it is said, they were to be instructed gratuitously in the Classics only. The office of junior Master has been done away with for some years. The present Master is the Rev. H. Ayling, whose enlightened views of education have pro- CHARITIES. 83 cured for him a great number of pupils in- dependently of those on the establishment. Many persons of eminence have received their education at this School. An account of the most celebrated amongst them forms the subject of a succeeding article. This Hospital was founded by George Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury, in the reigns of James I. and Charles I. for a 1 Master, twelve brethren, and eight sisters. In Bray and Manning's History of Surrey, it is said that the first stone was laid in 1619 by Sir Nicholas Kemp, Knight, who then gave one hundred pounds, and, at his death, five hundred more: but, the Archbishop, in his will, speaking of Kemp*s donation, says that Sir Nicholas was present when he ( the Testator ) laid the first stone ; and this, I think, will be esteemed sufficient evidence to prov e that the compilers of that valuable work must have been mistaken in this particular. * * As I have written no preface td this humble production, for the sake of admitting' as much matter of fact in its stead 84 CHARITIES. The Archbishop's endowment amounted to three hundred pounds a year ; two hundred of which, proceeding from Farms in Surrey and Sussex, were directed to be applied as follows, for the immediate support of the members. as would supply its place, and have lately been accused by certain persons (who for reasons of their own have manifested some hostility to my work) of having resorted to the writings of the above named Authors, as the source of my historical information. I may perhaps be pardoned if I inform my readers, (and I do not to shrink from the avowal) that I have indeed been indebted to them for the majority of Historical facts submitted to their persual. Had I merely abridged such parts as relate to Guildford and its vicinity, of three folio volumes, which are too expensive to be in the hands of many persons, I should conceive that I had ren- dered a valuable service to my readers : but as their authors, on almost every occasion, refer to the authorities upon which they ground their opinions, I have, in all cases when I could do so, obtained the originals that I might judge for myself, knowing that the most learned may commit an error which the humblest amongst us may at times detect : neither have I neglected an attentive persual of other works to which no reference in the County History is given, and I trust my little book will bear internal evidence that I do not blindly follow any author, however highly his writings may be esteemed, or place an implicit reliance upon the opinions of others, because I am too indolent, or too stupid to think and examine for myself. CHARITIES. 85 £. s. d. To the Master * per annum ... 20 0 0 To the Vice-master ..... 0 13 4 To each of the Brethren and Sisters ) , oq q q 2s. 6d. per week ... * $ To a Clerk . .10 0 To the Rector of Trinity Church . 1 10 0 To Gowns for the poor, once in two > K A n years,— £1. 10s. each. ... \ To the expenses of four gaudy days 2 0 0 To two of the Sisters, to be annually appointed by the Master on the f O 13 4 30th September, for taking care ^ of the sick. To fuel in common from All-hallow* ) n 1Q tide to Easter. S v 16 4 £171 10 0 The residue, £28. 10s. to be laid up towards a common stock, for bearing expenses of law- suits, repairs, and other charges of the house. The following is extracted from the Arch- bishop's will. " Touching the hospital erected by me in Guildford where I was born, and my parents * Mr. Robinson is the present Master, H 86 CHARITIES. of good memory long inhabited ; I have finish-* ed the main building, and if there be any thing of decency or ornament convenient to be added thereunto* if God permit me life I shall accomplish those also. I have procured from my old sovereign King James of blessed memory a gracious mortmain, and I have de-> vised statutes for the good government thereof, which I have caused formerly to be set down, and I have sent them to the Hospital * I may peradventure add some small things unto those statutes during my life, but if after my decease any thing appear not to be perfect, I leave the charge of the explaining the same unto my executors* to whom I leave a power to change circumstances if necessity so require, provided that they keep the substance of mine intend- ment. My purpose in the first place is to maintain there one master of the hospital* twelve poor brothers, and eight poor sisters* all aged persons of honest report. But my intent in the second place is that some manu- facture be set up in that town of Guildford, to find work for the younger sort of people. And to that end I have begun the work al- CHARITIES. ready, and bestowed a good stock upon it. For the prosecution of this manufacture I crave the furtherance of the mayor and his brethren in that town, wishing that they will jointly agree together for the best course to promote that business, the honour will be God's, the reputation will be theirs, and will be a great benefit to that town if their poor be set on work. I would have my executors and the master of the hospital ever willing and ready to help forward mine intention, and if they all look at the public and not too much at the private, God will give a great blessing unto it. I have appointed a room for the work-house, and I hope it be already fitted thereto. For the endowment of the poor of the hospital I have bought land at Merrow, of one Master Harwood, and I have already passed it to that house ; if there be no such conveyance made, I do by this my will give that land to the master and brethren of that hospital. I have bought also of one Master Goodwin lands at Meredin, or lands called Meredin, to the rent of forty pounds by the year. And of one Constable I have bought h 2 88 CHARITIES. land at Horsham, yielding rent to the value of forty pounds by the year. These two parcels I do give to my hospital for ever, and I would have my executors to help forward those do- nations of mine if there be cause, but no way to hinder them. I have bought of Thomas Hill land at Ewhurst for the yearly rent of twenty-seven pounds, ten shillings * if it shall seem fit to Mr. George Duncan to have this land changed, I shall not be against it, so that there be as much land for value, and a good title laid in lieu of it ; but be it one or the other I give it to my hospital* For the up- holding of the manufacture set up by me in Guildford I do give one hundred pounds a year for ever to the said my hospital, (that is to say) three-score pounds a year bought of Master Bishe, and forty pounds by the year lying at Charlewood and bought of one Polsdon ; and howsoever perhaps I do not hitt on the right names of the sellers, or the places where these lands lie, I will that it he no hinderance to this my donation or donations, but that the posses- sions be made g-ood to the master and brethren of my hospital. I intended for the maintenance, CHARITIES. 89 of the poor of my hospital two hundred pounds by the year, and now by the releasing of certain wood ground bought of one Brom- field of Katherine-hill near Guildford, there wanteth the rent of twelve pounds ten shil- lings yearly charged upon my hospital. If I provide not this in my life-time, I require my executors to supply it with speed ; but I am upon a bargain in Sussex, which I hope shall clear it up all. And whereas my good friend Sir Nicholas Kernpe, did by his last will and testament, give five hundred pounds to be be- stowed on some good work as I should think meet, I here declare that I have bestowed that whole sum upon some of the lands before- mentioned to be bought and conveyed to my hospital, which I do being warranted there- unto, not only by the general words of his will, but by particular signification from himself, for he was present when I laid the first stone of the chapel for that hospital, and gave me one hundred pounds towards the work, and since from to time, and lately be- fore his death being with me at Croydon, he voluntarily assured me he would be mindful h 3 •90 CHARITIES. of that house and foundation ; and whereas he doth not in his will specially name the hospital, I conceive the reason of it out of true ground to be, because he did not know whether I would have any man's name used in the founding of that house and corporation besides mine own ; but I declare him now a principal and the only benefactor of moment to that place, and I have caused mention to be made of it in the statutes of that house, that he did confer to that foun- dation six hundred pounds, which to posterity will be an honor and memorial to that good knight sometime an officer in the archbishop- rick and to me." Jt now remains for me to account for the one hundred pounds per annum, alluded to in page 84, as also in the above extract. This sum issued out of two farms in Burstow and Charlwood ; and was intended for the employment of young persons in some manu- facture to be set up, and carried on in the town. — After the Archbishop's death a manu- factory of linen cloth was established by the Mayor and others, to whose management this matter had been left : woollen instead of linen CHARITIES. §1 cloth was afterwards made: but neither of these ways producing such profit as it was intended should arise ; because such as were employed to work there would not work with- out greater wages than others gave,, it was decreed by the Court of Chancery in 1656 that the £100 should be yearly distributed to ten, or some other number of honest poor tradesmen and housekeepers, who might want stock. But it having been found in 1785 that these rents had been given in small sums to such as generally lived on their credit, and so became idle* the Mayor and Approved men obtained a further order from the Court of Chancery, that only one moiety should be dis- posed of under the former decree, and the other employed as follows — £. s. d To the maintenance of four additi- } onal poor women at 3s. 4d. per > 34 13 4 week each. J A new gown for each, at £1. 10s. > q q (j once in two years* ) For fuel, each 6s. 8d„ ..... 1 6 8 For dinners on the four gaudy days 0 16 0 Te each of the same on the Foun- > inn der's birth-day (Nov. 9th,) 5s. \ 1 u ° 92 CHARITIES. £. s. d To the Master 8 10 8 For allowance for fuel in common . 0 13 4 £50 0 0 The women received on this establishment, succeed, according to seniority, to vacancies on the Archbishop's, and others are admitted in their stead. Persons admitted on this foun- dation must have the same qualifications and are subject to the same statutes as the former. When the building was finished, King James I. in 1662, incorporated the members by the stile of " the Master and Brethren of the Hos- pital of the Blessed Trinity, Guildford." with the full powers, privileges, and immunities of a body corporate ; and impowering the founder, and succeeding Archbishops of Canterbury to make statutes from time to time for the good government of the same. A body of statutes was accordingly com- piled by the Archbishop himself, and delivered to the Master and Brethren in 1629. This is curiously and well written, but as it would at least occupy forty of my pages, the reader CHARITIES. 9% will readily see that my limits will not justify its insertion at length. The statutes provide that the Master be a person of good character, born in Guildford, or an inhabitant for twenty years past of that part which was within the Mayor*s jurisdiction in 1620, and of the age of fifty years at least. He is also to be a person acquainted with worldly business, and unmarried at the time of his election: if he shall take unto him a spouse afterwards, he is enjoined to quit his mastership within three days of his wedding, A person who has served the office of Mayor may be elected, and the Rector of Trinity Church, though not qualified by birth or residence, may, on any vacancy, make the mastership his option without the form of elec- tion: otherwise, as often as it shall become vacant, the vice-master, or some other Brother in his absence having given notice to the elec- tors, they are to meet in the Chapel, and with- in twenty-four hours to proceed to an election., The electors are the Mayor or his deputy, the Rector of Trinity Church, or of Saint Nicholas, the Vice-Master and txco senior Brethren* \$ 04 CHARITIES. the electors do not agree within the time pre* scribed, the nomination devolves upon the Archbishop *of Canterbury ; after twelve days more on the Bishop of Winchester ; in seven days after to the heirs of Sir George More, Knight, of Losely ; and, after other five days, to the first electors. The new Master takes the oaths of allegiance and of office, immedi- ately after his election. The Vice-master is nominated on the 30th September by the Master and five senior Brethren. The qualifications of the Brethren and Sis- ters are that they be sixty years of age, and born in Guildford, or resident there for twenty years before : they must be unmarried at the time of* their election, those who shall afterwards take helpmates are to vacate their situations within two days of the consummation of their nuptials. Every person elected is to have a chamber assigned to him or her : but to enjoy no fur- ther profits until the end of one quarter of a year after election, and his or her portion for that time goes to the common chest. At the end of the quarter the person, on taking the paths, enters on the whole profits. CHARITIES. 9!b tf it happen that there be not found in Guildford unmarried persons of the requisite age of sixty years, aged married men or women^ with consent of the Mayor, Master, and Rec- tor of trinity Church, may be elected ! such persons are not, however to be lodged in the Hospital 5 but are to enjoy the Weekly stipend of 2s. 6di as out brothers or sisters. For the better government of this society * it is also provided by the statutes* that divine service be performed in the Chapel of the Hospital twice in every day by the Master* Vice-master, or one of the Brethren appointed by the Master ; and that every member able to do so* do duly attend the same, and par- take of the Lord's Supper three times in every year. Rebellious brethren and sisters are to be ad- monished, mulcted, or expelled* in proportion to their offence* If the Master offend* lie is to be punished at the discretion of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who is by the statutes appointed visitor of the Hospital. The 9th November being the anniversary of 96 CHARITIES* the Founder's birth-bay, is annually com- memorated. As the oaths of the Master and other mem- bers of this establishment may afford pleasure to the curious reader, they are subjoined. "I, A. B. from henceforth, so long as I shall continue and remain Master of this Hospital, shall and will, by God's assistance, do my best endeavours to perform, fulfil, and obey the statutes, ordinances, and constitutions of the same, so far as they concern me, and shall do my best that the rest of the Brethren and Sisters, as also all others that are under me* do keep and observe the same ; I shall not hereafter at any time procure, or willingly give assent unto the hurt, endangering, or endamaging of the said Hospital, in the here- ditaments, or any of the moveable goods there* of, or in any thing that may concern the estate or welfare thereof ; but to my best skill and power, shall defend, promote, and set forward the benefit and commodity thereof while I live. So help me God in Christ Jesus." CHARITIES. !)7 Wit ©atft of a Wvothtv or Mmv. u I, A. B. from henceforth, so long as I shall remain a member of this hospital of the Blessed Trinity, in Guildford, shall and will, by God's assistance, do my best endeavour to fulfil and keep the statutes and ordinances of the same, so far forth as they concern me ; I shall be obedient to the master of the hospital, in all reasonable and honest things ; I shall not at any time willingly procure or give assent unto any endangering or endamaging of the said hospital, either in the estate, hereditaments, or moveable goods thereof, but to my best power and skill, shall defend and set forward the welfare and commodity thereof whilst I live. — So help me God in Jesus Christ.'* Out of the savings of former rents certain lands have been purchased : the clear produce of these is divided, on the 9th of November in every year, into twenty -two parts; of which the master takes two, and each of the brethren and sisters of the old foundation, one. Sttftritumai Boufactuntg* Mr. Thomas Jackman, one of the magis- trates of this town, in 1785, gave £600, by 98 CHARITIES. deed; with which Old South Sea Annuities were purchased, producing* £26. 4s. 4d. per annum : to the above donation enough was added from the common stock to effect the purchase of thirty pounds a year in the whole. This sum is thus disposed of — £. d. To each of the poor on the old I cya c\ c\ foundation, 6d. per week. \ To the master per annum . . . . 2 10 0 To the expenses of a iniud y day on > » ^ the 11th of April. \. 1 0 0 To the Clerk ....... 0 10 0 £30 0 0 Mrs. Jane More Molyneux, who died in 1802, left by her will £2000. 3 per Cent, con* solidated bank annuities to her executors, upon trust to transfer the same to the Mayor and Approved men, if they could and would accept of the same ; and if not, to the Rectors of the united parishes of the Holy Trinity and St. Mary and of St. Nicholas, upon trust to divide the dividends half-yearly between the twelve men and twelve women in Archbishop Abbott^ hospital, after paying necessary expenses. CHARITIES. LINES FOR AN INSCRIPTION ®o tht Mttnovg of ARCHBISHOP ABBOTT. By the compiler of this volume. If meek Humility e'er touched thy heart, If deeds of Charity thy soul revere, If generous Virtue can delight impart, Reader, a monument of these is here ! The joyless days of sinking age to cheer, Was his delight who reared this humble pile His was the joy to dry the poor man's tear. And bid the daughter of affliction smile. By fortune raised in a propitious hour, No shame had he to own his humble lot : He knew the worth of riches and of power, And ne'er the Christian use of these forgot. By deeds of valour, — by the traitor's plot, Ambition oft hath soared on wings of fame : By private virtues, tho'he sought it not, The humbler man immortalized his name I 100 I CHARITIES. I have stated in the 31st page that the Poyle estate came by purchase, into the hands of Henry Smith, and was left by him to Robert Earl of Essex and others, in trust that the proceeds of the same should be received by the Mayor and Approved men, for the use of the poor of Guildford : but before I enter upon the particulars of this excellent charity, I feel it a duty in justice to the memory of its founder to offer the best account of him I can procure ; because a variety of ridiculous stories respect- ing him are in the mouths of the vulgar, and these, in the absence of better information, have gained credence with persons who ought to be better informed. An idle tradition has been currently believed of his wandering about disguised as a beggar, and followed by a dog ; and that having been whipped through some parish, he left no- thing to it on that account. It has a question- able appearance that the narrators of this marvellous tale have never been able to fix on the parish where this whimsically benevo-* CHARITIES. 101 lent individual was so scurvily maltreated ; but, as the majority of story-tellers do not generally scruple to fill up such parts of their narration as may be left in a state of uncer- tainty from the sources of their own fertile imaginations, many attempts have been made to fix on the identical parish where the un- merciful flagellation was inflicted; but, un- luckily for the relators of this story, they have always contrived to fix upon one, where, upon examination, his benefactions have been found to be enjoyed, either by the persons for whom they were designed, or by others for whom they were not intended : and indeed, Tattes~ field near Godstone, Chilworth or St. Martha on the Hill, and Wanborough near Guildford, are the only three omitted in the whole county : and as a proof that no particular pique against either of these existed in the mind of the donor, the allotments to the rest of the parishes were not made by him, but by his trustees after his death. Perhaps this tale may be traced to that of the Lambeth pedlar, who is said to have given an acre of ground to that parish for leave to i 3 102 CHARITIES. bury his dog in the church-yard, and whose figure with a dog behind it is still to be seen in a window of Lambeth Church, where it was originally placed, no doubt, by the grateful parishioners. I will now endeavour to offer to my readers something like the real history of the excellent man whose charities are so numerous and so various, and have proved of so much real and permanent advantage to the necessitous. Mr. Henry Smith was born at Wands- worth about the year 1548, and is supposed to have been by trade a Jeweller : he is known to have resided in Silver-street Cheapside, which Street was burnt, at the great fire of London, about forty years after his death. In 1608, he was elected Alderman of the ward of Farririgdon without, and in the Cor- poration books he is described as citizen and salter; further information might have been obtained from the company of Salters' books, but these were burnt in 1666. How Mr. Smith became possessed of his great property does not appear : but as no account of his family has been obtained further CHARITIES. 103 then the mention of it in his will, where he describes his sister's children (the only rela- tions he mentions) as being poor, it is highly probable that it was all accumulated in trade. After the death of his wife, by whom he had no issue, he resolved to dispose of his wealth in charities ; and during his life-time gave to the towns of Croydon, Kinyston-upon- Thames, Guildford, Farnham, Godalming, and Dorking, £1000. each. In furtherance of his design, in the year 1620 he vested his personal estate in trustees, reserving to himself £500. a year for life, and a power of appointing the rents and profits to charitable uses. By another deed he declared that the rents, &c. should be employed by his trustees or any seven or more of them, their heirs or assigns, to such charitable uses as they, his trustees, or their heirs, &c. should appoint. This disposal of his property was confirmed by a decree of the Court of Chancery in 1625. By this decree Mr. Smith was to have the use of his house in Silver-street, and to receive the proceeds of his estates for his life, and dispose of them as he should think proper, and after 104 CHARITIES. his death to such charitable uses as he should appoint by his will ; or in default of his ap- pointing- as his trustees should appoint. In 1626, he directed his income to be appli- ed to the relief of ag ed poor or infirm people, married persons having more children than their labour could maintain, poor orphans, such poor as kept themselves and their families to labour, &c. and not to vagrants, or such as should have no constant dwelling, immoral or idle persons, or persons who had not inhabited their respective parishes five years before the distribution. The Churchwardens and Over- seers were to dispose of his bequests, and to meet once a month, on the Sabbath day, after evening service, to consider which of the poor had most need of relief, and to make up a book of receipts and payments between Easter and Whitsuntide to be read in the Church on the Sunday following, which book was to be signed by the Churchwardens and Overseers, and remain on the wall of the Church four- teen days. In 1627 he made his will, and, amongst other things, gave £1000. to be laid out in CHARITIES. 105 land for the relief and ransom of poor men, being slaves under Turkish pirates ; £1000. to be laid out in lands amongst the poorest of his kindred ; £500. to the poor of Wandsworth ; £1000. to the poor of Reigate ; and £10,000 to buy impropriations for the relief and main- tenance of godly preachers and the better furtherance of religion; £1000. to Richmond ; and £100. to be lent to poor persons in sums of £20. a time. " Blush grandeur blush ! proud courts withdraw your blaze ! Ye little stars ! hide your diminish'd rays." He died in 1627 — 8, and was buried in Wandsworth Church, where there is a monu- ment to his memory. After the death of this excellent man, his trustees purchased several estates, which were appropriated to the relief of captives, and of his poor relations. The great tithes at Alfriston in Sussex, and part of those of Mayfield were bought & applied, as they continue to be, to the relief of poor clergymen not having an income of £100, a year. Other estates were also pur- chased, and, together with those which belonged 106 CHARITIES. to Mr. Smith at the time of his death, were allotted by his trustees in 1641 amongst a great number of parishes in different counties, but chiefly in Surrey, where, as I have before said, three small parishes were only omitted. The trust has since been renewed at diffe- rent times, under the direction of the Arch- bishop of Canterbury and the Lord Chancellor. 1 subjoin an account of the sums originally allotted to the parishes I shall have occasion to describe in the course of my Rambles, to- gether with the names of the estates from which 1 believe they respectively proceeded : but, I wish it to be remarked, that in most cases, if not in all, considerable improvements have taken place. From a farm-house and land at Eastbrook or Southwick in Sussex. Pirford parish . . . . . * . £3. From several messuages, farms, and lands at Warbleton in Sussex. Albury . . . £6. Pirbright . . £2. Ash 6 Puttenham ... 2 jBramley . f . 6 Send and Ripley . 8 CHARITIES. EastClandon . £3.ShaIford . ; . £6\ West Clandon . 5 Stoke hxt. Guildford 1*2 Compton i i . 2 Woking . * j .10 Merrow * . . 3 Worplesdon i i A Wonersh £8. From cottages, farms, lands. &c. at Worth and Balcomb in Sussex. Shire £10. With the sum of £1000. given by Mr. Smith to the town of Guildford, the Poyle Estate was purchased, and the rents, &c. were to be disposed of, agreeably to certain constitu- tions, rules, and orders made by him in his lifetime. These 1 understand are not now to be found amongst the Corporation papers, and are supposed to have been lost many years since. In the beginning of Queen Anne's reign Mr, Wight, being the only surviving trustee, conveyed the estate in trust to others, and the Mayor and Approved men, alledging that this conveyance was made without their con- sent, filed an information to set it aside ; but the Lord Keeper in 1706 confirmed the trustees so appointed, & declared that they, the trustees, 108 CHARITIES. had the sole power of letting leases, and that the consent of the Mayor and Approved men was not necessary, but that they should be privy to the making of all leases, and might propose tenants : that the trustees should re- ceive the rents, and pay them to the Mayor and Approved men, to be by them distributed equally amongst the poor of the town, that the latter should give an annual account of their distributions to the former, and that when the nnmber of trustees should be reduced to four, they should convey the estate to themselves and six more, or being reduced to two, to themselves and eight more. The rents of the whole estate, according to the return made to parliament in 1786, amount- ed to £312. 14s, 2±d. To what they amount at present I cannot precisely ascertain, particularly as some parts of the estate are now untenanted, and advertis- ed to be let. Some idea of their annual value may however be formed from the following particulars of the estate. CHARITIES, 109 Particulars of the Poyle Estate in 1827. Land. a. r> V' Situation and Occupants. A field .... 3 1 10 Pewley Hill, Mr. John Cook Five fields . . . 33 0 0 Ditto, Mr. Geo. Pimm The Cistern field .5 2 0 Ditto, Mr. G. Loveland A field .... 8 2 0 Ditto, Mr. W. Mills Ditto 3 2 0 Ditto, Mr. W. Chennell Ditto 3 2 0 Ditto, Mr. J. Brickwood Ditto 1 2 36 Ditto, Mr. R. Smallpiece Two fields ... 8 2 6 Trinity parish, Mr. G. Pimm Field & garden ground 1 0 4 Ditto, J. Hockley Esq. Meadow land . . 13 2 0 Near Woodbridge, J. Mangles, Meadow .... 4 0 0 Hook mead, Stoke, W. Elkins, , i i oo In Merrow common field, Mr. Land ..... 1 1 33 Qttaway _ n „ 0 In West Clandon Common field, Land 0 2 13 Mr. Dixon Barn, plat and 3 fields Alfold, W. Elkins, Esq. Arable & meadow ' v . Land (Rack-close) .4 0 0 St. Mary's, G. Stovell, Esq. Spital-house, buildings, . Trinity and Stoke parishes, garden and land. Mr. W. Strudwick. 99 2 7 * Three water corn mills capable of grinding 54 loads per week, and consisting of the new mill (now divided into two * These mills have just undergone a thorough repair at a very considerable expense, K 110 CHARITIES. •with a common entrance) and the old mill with a small spot of ground adjoining on the west, 72ft. by 36ft. An Iron Foundry and garden occupied by Messrs Williams and Filmer, Iron Founders, and wholesale Ironmongers. A stable and hay-loft over, with a small piece of ground in front, 15ft. by 8ft. A garden walled in, 80ft. by 63ft. The present trustees are The Right Honora- ble Lord Grantley, George Chappie Norton, Esquire M. P. The Honorable Colonel Onslow, Arthur Onslow, Esquire, M. P. the Rev. George Walton Onslow, the Rev. Arthur Onslow, the Rev. Charles Weston, John Mar- tyr, Esquire, and Francis Skurray, Esquire. The hospital of St. Thomas (upon the site of which stands a private residence called the Spital House in the foregoing statement, and which stands in an angle formed by the roads leading to Kingston and Epsom,) had a prior or master, but by whom it was founded is not known. It was in latter times appropri- ated to the reception of cripples, who were alternately recommended by the town and the CHARITIES. Ill county. The last sent under that denomina- tion was in 1698. The person occupying this house did at one time receive a stipend of £14. per annum : but this was afterwards suspend- ed by an order of session, the house aud garden &c. with the proceeds of other property per- taining to it, being deemed equivalent to that sum. In a subsequent decision it has been determined that the house which now stands upon the ancient site, is the exclusive property of the trustees of Poyle manor, and they have let it, together with the adjoining property, and appropriated the proceeds to the uses of the charity. The courts of the manor of Poyle are held at this residence, as the manor house. Blue Coat SbritoaL. Mr. Thomas Baker, a clothier of Guildford, was the founder of this charity. — About the year 1579 he built a market-house for Rye, Malt, and Oats in Trinity parish, and cove- nanted to keep it in repair ; provided his wife should enjoy the profits thereof during her life : they were afterwards to be employed to maintain a Schoolmaster to teach poor children, K 2 112 CHARITIES. not exceeding thirty in number, English, Writing, and Accounts, till they should be fit to be put out apprentices, or to be sent to the Grammar School, at £10. per annum. But the market-house being pulled down when the new Church was built, the charity was drop^ ped for some years. Afterwards the money saved out of rents, and arising from the sale of materials was employed to purchase Bank Stock amounting to £12. Is. 6d. per annum, and also consolidated Bank Annuities yielding £12. per annum ; and voluntary subscriptions were made. The subscriptions have been continued an- nually, and from these and the interest of the money in the funds 20 boys are taught as aforesaid, and clothed once a year. Maid's Money, A singular charity was founded in 1674 by Mr. John Howe, who gave £400. to be laid out in lands, and directed that the yearly produce should be given to one of two poor servant maids, (to be nominated by the Mayor and Magistrates) who, bearing a good character, and after living two years in the same service, were to cast lots to become entitled to it. CHARITIES. 113 By an order of the court of Chancery, dated 1729, this money was directed to be invested in the purchase of £400. Old South Sea An- nuities, and the produce, £12. per annum, was directed to be applied to the purpose aforesaid. This sum is annually thrown for with dice in the council chamber by a pair of blushing damsels of unimpeachable character : and as the loser is re-admitted as a votary of the fickle goddess the next year, as also the third should she continue unfortunate, it is seldom that industry and virtue fail eventually to bear away the prize. Some restriction as to the choice of the fair candidates, and as to the number of times each may throw, are contained in the will of the founder. Apprentices Money, — Mr. John Parsons, a native of this place, in 1702 left by his will £600, the annual produce whereof he directed to be paid by the Mayor and Magistrates to a poor young man who should have served an apprenticeship of seven years within the limits of the town, and become a freeman of the same, to enable him to set up in trade here : k 3 A1 4 CHARITIES. but he must appear by his oath not to be worth £20. ; nor can he receive this donation more than once in his lifetime. If no qualified person should appear in any year, the produce is to be paid to some young- woman of good report, who shall have lived three years in a private family and in the same service. Should the Mayor and Magistrates neglect the distribu- tion of this charity, or refuse to act, or apply it in any shape contrary to the directions of the testator, it is to become forfeited to the City and Corporation of Chichester, to be applied in a similar manner by them. Mrs. Austen '« Charity. — Joan Austen, widow, in 1582 gave to the poor of the town 13s. 4d. annually, which she charged upon a house in the parish of Saint Mary. Baldwin's Charity. — Henry Baldwin in 1653 gave to the poor of Guildford an annuity of 6s. 8d. charged on another house in the same parish. Mr. Austen's Charity. — John Austen, Esq. in 1611-2 left an annuity of £8. charged on his half of Shalford Rectory, to be divided amongst such of the poor within the liberties CHARITIES. 115 of Guildford as the Mayor and Approved men should appoint, so that no one should receive more than 13s. 4d. or less than 3s. 4d* annual- ly. Out of this bequest £1. 12s. for land-tax is deducted, and of the residue, £6. 8s. £2. has from the commencement of the present century been divided amongst ten poor widows of Trinity parish, £3. 4s. amongst sixteen poor widows of Saint Mary's parish, and the re- maining £1. 4s. amongst six poor widows of the parish of Saint Nicholas. Duncomb's Charity. — Olive Duncomb by will, 1705, bequeathed £300. to be distributed amongst, or to be laid out for the present or future use of such of the poor of Trinity parish as her executors should thing fit. Through a deficiency of assets the whole of this legacy was not paid, and,, in compli- ance with a chancery order, what had been received was laid out in Old South Sea Annu- ties, amounting to £490. 5s. 5d. the yearly produce of which, £14. 14s. 2d. is employed in putting out poor children apprentices. Howe's Charity. — John Howe by his will, 1674, gave a house, &c. in St. Mary's parish, 116 CHARITIES. directing that the profits should be for ever employed to the use of the poor thereof : and declared his intent to be that two poor men and their wives, inhabitants of the parish, and appointed by the Churchwardens and Over- seers, with the approbation of the overseers of his will, might occupy the same during their lives. Lovejoy's Charity, — Caleb Lovejoy of the parish of Saint Nicholas, and of Merchant Taylors' Company, by will, 1676, gave thirteen messuages and a workshop in the parish of Saint Olave, Southwark, and directed that the rents and profits of the same should be applied as follows — "For a sermon to be preached annually on the day of his death, £1. If the minister of Saint Nicholas, Guildford, shall preach this sermon, the whole of the 20s. to be paid to him ; but if he shall not preach it, and the trustees of the charity shall procure some other minister to preach the same, the said 20s. are to be equally divided between the preacher and the minister of St. Nicholas. For a collation after the sermon for the CHARITIES. 117 minister, trustees, and churchwardens, and a register who is to teach boys to write, £1. The register before the company parts, to enter the receipts, disbursements, and remains in a waste book. To two auditors of accounts once in every second year, 20s. — per annum 10s. If the auditors come from London, 40s. to be spent at the collation. Every second year the register with his own hand to enter into a fair book what was formerly entered m the waste book. The register to receive every second year 10s. — per annum 5s. For ringing the bells annually 2s. 6d. To the parish clerk annually, 2s. 6d. For teaching poor people's children their letters until they can read their Testament, £'6\ per annum. To be done by some honest poor women. One to teach some in the Street of St. Nicholas, others at Catherine Hill, Littleton, or where the trustees shall think most convenient. Three poor boys born in the parish of Saint Nicholas, after they have been some time at the 118 CHARITIES. Grammar School, and have attained 10, 11, or 12 years, shall be chosen out of the parish by the trustees, and by the exactest writing mas- ter living in or near Guildford taught to write two or three fair hands with Arithmetic to such a degree, as that they may be able to keep merchant's accounts. The writing" master to have four nobles a year for teaching each boy, per annum £4. The boys to continue writing two years, or two years and a half; none exceeding three years ; and then such as shall be put to serve apprenticeships, shall, after they be bound, have every one £5. And then the trustees and churchwardens to choose more boys born til the parish afore- said, to be put in their rooms successively for ever. This settlement was to continue for 45 years, from Midsummer 1677 ; and afterwards for two or three years, untill out of the rents such money should be raised in Bank as would build four convenient little houses, each containing two rooms, one over the other, for aged poor who were either born, or have CHARITIES. 119 lived in the parish at least 50 years, meaning only in the town liberty. Each of these poor people to be paid £5. per annum. — In all per annum £20. Each of them to have 20s. per annum to purchase fuel. — In all per annum £4. Each of them to have a blue home-made cloth gown with a badge of red cloth set in the breast of each gown, cut in the letters C, L. Each gown, with stockings, shoes, or other necessaries to cost 20s, and to last two years. In all per aunum £2. Each of them to have 20s. expended every second year for linen, shoes, stockings, and other necessaries.— In all per annum £2. Great care to be taken that the persons who shall be placed in the said houses shall be persons of good report, fearing God, not swearers* drunkards, nor disturbers of their neighbours peace ; but of a Godly conversa- tion. But if the trustees and churchwardens who shall have power to place them in the said houses, should be mistaken, and the per- sons therein placed should be found trouble- some, scandalous, and disorderly in their lives, 120 CHARITIES. if they should not amend at the first admpnii tion, their money due the next quarter to be with-beld. And if they do not reform the next quarter after that> they are to be expel- led, and some better deserving persons put in their room. And for further encouragement of poor people's young children who are to be taught by the poor women, to whom he had appoints ed £6. per annum, he appointed £3. more to be added, that books may be bought for them who are to learn, and that new books may be given to them that have learned* That on said improvement happening, to- gether with the three boys chosen out of the parish of Saint Nicholas, two more should be choosen by the town of Guildford, one out of the parish of Saint Trinity, the other out of the parish of Saint Mary. All five to be taught writing and arithmetic. And he then ordered and appointed that the master should have for his pains, for each boy 30s. each year. — In all per annum £7. 10s. And when any boy shall be fit to be put out apprentice he should have 10s. bestowed CHARITIES, 121 in getting clothes for him, and £5. to give his master when bound. And when the rents should be improved, there should be spent at dinner, after the ser- mon, with the minister, and whom else the trustees should think fit, £4. And that every year if two or three auditors from London should come to the sermon, each should have for charges 20s. And that there should be given to such of the poor of the parish who should come to hear the sermon, £1." The income of the estate not being equal to all the charges laid upon it, many of the above directions are not complied with : though some time since 3 per Cent, consols, in addition, were purchased by the trustees to the amount of £6. 15s. per annum. I know not whether any recent investures from further savings have been made* Benbrick's Charity. — George Benbrick, by will, 1682, gave certain lands in Shalford, and also an annuity of £10. proceeding from other lands near Alton, directing that the produce should be equally distributed amongst eight L 122 CHARITIES* poor persons, freemen of the town, or the poor widows of such, inhabitants of Saint Nicholas' parish within the bounds of the corporation, and being all persons of reputable character* protestants, not worth £100. in the judgment of the trustees, and receiving nothing from the poor's-rate. Out of this bequest are de- ducted £2. for land-tax on the annuity, £2, 12s. on the lands in Shalford, Is. 6d. quitrent, and £1. for a dinner and clerk, besides occa- sional expenses in repairing fences, &c. Other Benefactions. — An annual sum of 16s. Sd. but from whom, and of what date is not certain, is carried to the poor's-rate of Trinity parish, and a similar sum of the same amount is carried to the poor's rate of Saint Mary's, as also the yearly sum of 2s. 6d* the donor of which is not known. Mr. T. Russell, in a History of Guildford, published about thirty years since, says that "Jasper Yardley, Gent, second matter of Trin- ity hospital gave to the three parishes in Guildford 20 nobles apiece for the apparalei- i»2: and placing poor children," and in a •succeeding part of his work he says that 20s. CHARITIES. 128 are annually paid out of the Star public-house to purchase Bibles for poor children of Trinity parish. With the manner in which the two last named charities are applied I am not ac- quainted. Before I take leave of this long subject, it may not be deemed improper that I should furnish a brief account of the nature of the several societies, or branches of parent soci- eties, in Guildford, professing to have charity for their object ; and which are for the most part supported by voluntary subscription. The Bible Association for disseminating printed copies of the Holy Scriptures to such poor persons in the town of Guildford and parts adjacent, as may need them ; and to assist the parent society. Church Missionary Society for sending abroad Missionaries from the established Church to promulgate the doctrines of Chris- tianity. London Missionary Society for sending preachers into foreign lands to establish the Christian faith. l 2 124 CHARITIES. Home Missionary Society for the support of teachers of the Gospel in our own country. The Jews 9 Society for the conversion of the Israelites to Christianity. The Seamen' s Friend Society for the des- semination of religious instruction in the British Navy, affording occasional relief to distressed persons of that class, and the estab- lishment of schools for the education of the orphans and other children of seamen. The Reliyious Trad Society for effecting the publication of religious works at a cheap rate. The Christian Knowledge Society for pro- moting a similar object ; but with this pecu- liarity, that all works distributed by the association are productions of members of the church of England. The Good Samaritan Society for visiting and relieving the sick poor of the town and neighbourhood of Guildford, The British and Foreign School Society > very recently established, in aid of the Lan- castrian system of instruction. The Clergymen's Widows and Orphans. Society CHARITIES. 125 for the relief of indigent widows and orphans of deceased clergymen of the Church of Eng- land. The National School Society. The building erected for this charity stands on the left-hand side of the road leading from the North town ditch to the county gaol. It is divided into two schools for the different sexes, who are taught chiefly upon the principles recommended by the late Dr. Bell. The Lancastrian School Society. At present there is only one school of this description in the town, it is for girls only, and is principally supported by members of the society of Friends. A part of the store-rooms of the late barracks was converted into a school -house some years since, and is still employed for the same purpose. It stands near the Cricket- ground upon the eastern bank of the river. The Society for the reformation of Juvenile Offenders declares its own object in its name, it is well supported, and is surely an institution of the greatest importance to the welfare of society. The Infant and Sunday School. This is sup- l 3 126 eflMmes. ported entirely from the private purse of William Hay don, Esquire, in whose praise I could find in my heart to say much : but lest in this censorious age I be suspected of insin- cerity, I shall forbear, and leave his numerous and well-meant charities to speak for them* selves. The Infant-school is situate in the Bury-fields, and I recommend all my readers? who have not availed themselves of the oppor- tunity, to pay a visit to this little establishment which is kindly open to their inspection, and to judge for themselves of the excellency of the plans by which little children are made acquainted with subjects of which too many persons remain ignorant during their whole lives. Freemason's Lodge* Under the head Charities I must not omit to mention the Lodge of ^Equanimity, which is held at the Angel Inn, and is conducted without that riot and excess which (to the discredit of men and not of Masonry be it spoken) too often disgrace the members of this Order. I believe 1 shall have few readers who do not know that the real objects of this society are to cultivate such BIOGRAPHY. 127 knowledge as may be conducive to man's hap- piness here and hereafter, and to afford relief to indigent freemasons their widows, and children, which relief is transmitted in sums of various amount (raised by contributions amongst the brethren ) from the Grand Lodge of England. Biographical Sketch of persons of note educa- ted at the Free School. I almost hesitate as to the propriety of commencing this brief sketch with the name of Mr. John Park hurst, when I find an author of undoubted veracity asserting that he was educated in Grammar learning at a school in Oxford, especially as the time of his boy-hood was that of the infancy of the Guildford insti- tution, and before it became a Royal founda- tion. But as writers of equal respectability on the other hand enrol him in the list of eminent persons educated here, I should not perhaps avoid censure were I to omit his name altogether. This gentleman was born in 1511-12, was certainly a native of Guildford, and, after he had received the necessary preparatory in- 128 BIOGRAPHY. structions, was sent to Merton College, Oxford, where he became tutor to Bishop Jewel. In 1548 the Rectory of Cleeve in Glocester- shire was given to him : but on King Edward VPs. death he retired to Zurich, where he resided during the troublesome reign of Queen Mary ; & upon Elizabeth's accession returned to his native country. In 1560 he was conse- crated Bishop of Norwich, in which situation he continued till his death, which happened in 1574, in the 63rd year of his age. From the foregoing account it appears that he was born in the reign of Henry VIII. that he lived through the reigns of Edward VI. and Mary, and died in that of Elizabeth. William Cotton, one of the family of the Cot- tons of Connington, was educated here, and afterwards admitted a member of Queen's Col- lege, Cambridge. He became successively Archdeacon of Lewes, Canon residentiary of St. Paul's, & Bishop of Exeter, to which latter office he was appointed in 1598. He died at Silver- ton in Devonshire, 1621, in his 80th year, and was buried in his own Cathedral. He was born in the latter part of Henry BIOGRAPHY. 129 VI IPs. reign, lived through those of Edward VI. Mary, and Elizabeth, and died in that of James 1. Henry Cotton, younger son of Sir Richard Cotton, Knight, privy counsellor to Edward VI. was a native of Hampshire, and having received instructions at this school, was sent to Magdalen College, Oxon. He was after- wards a prebendary in the Church of Win- chester, and in 1598 was made Bishop of Salisbury. He died in 1615, at about the age of 70, and was buried in his own church. He lived in the same reigns as William Cotton last mentioned. Robert Abbott, son of Maurice Abbott, a Cloth-worker of Guildford, was born in 1560. After leaving the Free School he was sent to Baliol College, Oxford, where, about 1683, he- became celebrated for his preaching. Upon delivering a sermon at Worcester he was made Lecturer, and soon after Rector of All-saints there ; and the effect of a sermon preached by him at St. Paul's cross was to produce for him a rich benefice in Nottinghamshire, which, was presented to him by one of his hearers^ 130 BIOGRAPHY. In the beginning of James Fs. reign he was made Chaplain in ordinary to that prince : but before this he had rendered himself famous by his theological writings ; for his Majesty was graciously pleased to order that Ms own com-, mentary upon part of the Apocalypse should be printed with the second edition of Dr. Abbott's book de Antichristo. In 1609 he was appointed to the mastership of Baliol College, and acquitted himself in that capacity with acknowledged credit, intro- ducing a reformed system of government where riot and dissipation had at length ren- dered prompt and careful measures necessary to be adopted. The following year he was elected Regius Professor of Divinity in that university, and acquitted himself so well, in Ms lectures on the supremacy of Kings, that on the death of Bishop Cotton he was elevated to the See of Salisbury, and consecrated by his younger brother then Archbishop of Canter- bury. This event took place at Lambeth in 1615. But he was not permitted to remain long in the exercise and enjoyment of his pastoral charge : for his sedentary habits BIOGRAPHY. 131 brought on a complaint, which terminated his existence two years after, iii his 58th yean He was one of the five Bishops who suc- ceeded each other in the government of the Church of Salisbury in the course of only six years. When he became sensible of the near ap- proach of "the last enemy," he summoned together all those of his household, and in their presence signed all his Works with these words, "That faith which I have defended in my writings is the truth of God, and in avouching thereof I leave the world." He died with a firm confidence in Christian prayer, and, by his conduct in the sharpest hour of trial, left his enemies no room to doubt his sincerity. He was born in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and died in that of her successor, James I. See Note E. George Abbott* a younger brother of Robert, was born here in 1562. A popular story of his mother's dreaming, whilst enciente, that if she could obtain a pike, her son would bec ome a great man ; of her catching a fish of 132 BIOGRAPHY. that kind in a bucket as she dipped it into the river Wey to procure water; and of some persons of distinction becoming sponsors for her son in consequence, is currently believed by the gossips of Guildford ; though it would be so much easier for these wholesale dealers in the wonderful to infer that the good character of his parents attracted the notice of their superiors, and that the genius of their off- spring developing itself in his childhood, some kind friend was induced to interest himself in his education. Certain it is, however, that from some cause operating in their favor, he and his brother Robert were sent to the Free School, and that in 1578 George was removed to Baliol College Oxford, at which place he was elected master of University College in 1597. In 1599 he became Dean of Winches- ter, and in 1600 Vice Chancellor of the University, to which latter office he was again appointed in 1603 and 1605. He was after- wards chaplain to the Earl of Dunbar, one of King James's early favorites* and went with him into Scotland to assist in an attempt at establishing a union between the Scotch and BIOGRAPHY. 133 English Churches. Here he acquitted him- self with so much satisfaction to the Kino\ that Speed supposes his exertions on this oc- casion to have been the cause of his future preferments. While he was at Edinburgh, Sprot, one of the persons concerned in Earl Cowrie's conspiracy, was tried and executed : and, in order to settle the minds of the people with regard to that affair, an account of it was drawn up by Sir William Hart, the judge before whom Sprot was tried, and a narrative of much merit written by Dr. Abbott and prefixed to the account. (See Note F.) As the King had many difficulties to overcome with respect to the Scottish nation, it is proba- ble that this publication, evincing as it did the abilities of the narrator, might induce the King to fix upon Abbott as a person likely to render him essential services. That something had operated to raise the Doctor in the estimation of this monarch is evident from a letter which he wrote to the former on the subject of the mediation cf peace between Spain and the United Provinces, when he had solicited the advice of tlie convocation then sitting, as to M 134 BIOGRAPHY. the lawfulness of his espousing the cause of the States, and they, instead of satisfying his doubts, had contrived to excite his appre- hensions. In 1609 Dr. Abbott was consecrated Bishop of Litchfield and Coventry, and was promoted to the Bishoprick of London in 1610. The See of Canterbury becoming vacant the same year, the King, upon the recommend- ation of the Earl of Dunbar, preferred Abbott to the Arclibishoprick in opposition to a wish expressed by the Court Prelates that the Bishop of Ely should be appointed to the government of the Church. In his new capacity the truly excellent man exhibited from the first an undaunted deter- mination to support the interests of protestant- ism, and was in a great measure the means of promoting the union between the Elector Palatine and the Princess Elizabeth. He afterwards celebrated their nuptials in the royal chapel, and, before the return of his Electoral Highness, received from him a pre- sent of plate to the value of a thousand pounds. When Hvfjo Grotms, the great Champion of BIOGRAPHY. 135 the Arminians, was sent over from Holland, to endeavour to set the King right as to the Arminian faith, the Archbishop appears to have had some apprehensions of the effect of that celebrated man's abilities upon the minds of the English protestants ; for in a letter to Sir R. Winwood, dated 1613, he advises that gentleman to take heed how he trusts Dr. Grotius too far, and quotes Steward's assertion that the doctor H had studied some two or three questions, whereof, when he came in company, he must be talking to vindicate his skill ; but if he were put from those he would shew himself but a simple fellow." Now, if this had been really the case, Grotius might , surely have been trusted without much dan- ger, where he had the established divinity of the country, and the popular prejudices of the people to contend against: but it is clear that the Archbishop, however lightly he might, presume to hold the talents of his rival, was secretly alarmed at his influence ; and the attack upon Grotius' abilities can scarcely be justified, though prompted by a fear that m 2 136 BIOGRAPHY. what he conceived to be the true mode of faith, should be contaminated with false principles. About the year 1613 the affair of the di- vorce between Lady Frances Howard and the Earl of Essex gave an opportunity to the Archbishop to evince his independence, and his determination not to give judgment against his conscience. It is not my province to de- tail the disgusting events which preceded the above transaction, let it suffice to say, that, after a train of the most disgraceful, abhorrent, and wicked intrigue, the divorce was sued on the part of the Countess, who had placed her lascivious affections upon Carr, Earl of Roch- ester, the King's favorite. His Majesty was pleased to refer this case to a court of Dele- gates, consisting of the Archbishop of Can- terbury, the Bishop of London, four other Bishops, and six Doctors of Law : but the Archbishop saw plainly that the King's aim was the divorce of the Lady, and as he was neither to be blinded by wilfulness, deafened by prejudice, nor intimidated by threats, * he * He was told " that a predecessor of his had suffered about a divorce (Dr. Julio's) and so might he." BIOGRAPHY. 137 boldly refused to sit in the court of Delegates upon this divorce, and, instead of lending himself to a powerful party to do evil, publi- lished his reasons for dissenting from the sentence, with some severe reflections upon the infamous conduct of the lady. * The divorce was however effected, under circum- stances which confer an indelible stain upon the reign of the Monarch in whose time they were tolerated. Either from a sense of the value of the Arch- bishop's services, or from the gratification his vanity received, in what he supposed the victory gained over his Grace in the reply which could not be answered, the King does not seem to have held the latter in a less favorable light after this event; as may be presumed from the appointment of his brother to the See of Salisbury in 1615, as also His Majesty's adoption of Mr, George Villiers (afterwards * These reasons were answered by His Majesty, and of course no farther debate could be permitted : but all accounts of the succeeding acts of the beautiful Countess, who did not even stop at murder where her pride was offended, furnish an ample rejoinder to the King's arguments, and sufficiently evince the justice of the Archbishop's conclusions, M 3 BIOGRAPHY". Duke of Buckingham) as a favorite, at the in- stigation of the Queen, who had been solicited by Abbott to lend her countenance and recom- mendation. About this time the Archbishop of Spalato. who had turned protestant, and taken shelter in England from the persecutions of the Pope, was kindly received by King James, and hospitably entertained by our prelate. When he afterwards returned to Rome, he sent an acceptable present to his Grace of Canterbury, being the manuscript of Father Paul's History of the Council of Trent. * In 1618 a circumstance occurred which placed the character of the Archbishop for hardihood and sincere devotion to his religious principles in a still stronger light. This was occasioned by nothing less than the putting forth of the King's well-known book authoriz- ing dancing, archery, leaping, May -games, &c. on the Sabbath-day after divine service, * This persecuted protestant (Spalato) was made Dean oi 'Windsor whilst in Englaudj but returned to Rome and publickly recanted his new doctrines. This recantation, however, stood him in but little stead: for he was thrown into the prison of the Inquisition, where he died, and his body was burned as being that of an heretic. BIOGRAPHY. 139 which book all ministers were to read to their parishioners on pain of suspension and im- prisonment. Many clergymen in consequence of this injunction were induced to vacate their churches, and amongst the dissentients one of the foremost was the Archbishop himself, who publickly forbade the reading of it in the church of Croydon, at which place he hap- pened to be. Several persons who stood high in court favor at this time would gladly have exerted their influence to bring this worthy man into disgrace ; but His Majesty, who was sensible of the value of such a servant, only winked at the transaction, and Abbott retained his place in the estimation of his Sovereign, and his popularity with the people. In the following year the Archbishop begin- ning to feel the infirmities incidental to age creeping upon him, resolved upon improving the remaining years of his life in the founda- tion of that charity, an account of which has occupied some of the preceding pages of this book ; and on the 1st of April laid the first stone of Guildford Hospital. This year also the Elector Palatine accepted 140 BIOGRAPHY. of the crown of Bohemia, a circumstance that caused much debate in the Council of England as to the propriety of his Majesty's interference. His Grace of Canterbury esteemed it indis- pensable, and, being unable through ill health to attend the council, wrote a letter (which from its excellency I regret that I cannot find room to insert) recommendatory of that measure. About the year 1621 the Archbishop's de- clining state of health rendering exercise more necessary to him than he had heretofore con- sidered it, he was invited by Lord Zouch to hunt in his park at Bramzil in Berkshire. The following account of an event arising from this circumstance is copied from Wilson's Life of James I. " Not long before this" (alluding to an event which happened in 1621) " that Rev. prelate George Archbishop of Canterbury, a man of a holy and unblamable life (meddling with edged tools that he used not to handle^ in his study) by a sad accident killed a keeper with a forked arrow as he was shoot- ing at a deer. This was a great perplexity to the good man, and a heavy knell to his aged BIOGRAPHY. 141 spirit, which he petitioned the King might ring a requiem to his retired thoughts at Guildford, his place of birth, where he had built a very munificent Alms-house for poor people, and where he went to bring his spirit under, to make it more blessed than the glories of the world can contribute to it. There were very many willing to have him retire to his rest, that gaped after his dignity more than desert; and though Doctor Laud was but newly initiated into his Bishoprick of Saint David's (by other hands, because those of the Archbishop were tinctured with blood, as he saith himself) yet his enmity was not small against him, for being a means to let the King know he was reputed a papist in Oxford, and a dangerous turbulent spirit: but the King- granted out a commission to enquire, whether casual homicide did make the Archbishop irregular? and in the disquisition of it, he found many friends that restored him from his alms-house to his palace. But this he did, and would have done in either condition. The widow of the man that fell by him, was raised by him ; and she and her children (as may be 142 BIOGRAPHY. said) built a commodious being upon his grave." I prefer the above account, though the last part of it is not perhaps couched in terms that are quite intelligible to the modern reader, because it proves that the worthy prelate did not forget those most likely to suffer from his mishap, and because, being written by a person who lived near his own time, * it is the more likely to be depended upon for its correctness. In these days, however, a law prevailed, that the property of a homicide, it seems even an involuntary one should be confiscated ; for the King when informed of the legal penalties incurred, wrote to the Archbishop, who had retired to his hospital of Guildford, assuring him "that he would not add affliction to his .sorrow, or take one farthing from his chattels or moveables which had become forfeited by law." After this the matter was investigated before ten persons appointed by the King, and upon * Mr. Wilson was employed in writing- his History in the year 1650. BIOGRAPHY. 143 their return being made, a pardon and a dis- pensation passed the great seal, and by this the Archbishop was declared capable of re- suming his authority. But even this act of clemency could not induce the prelate of unbending mind and a high sense of duty to manifest his gratitude at the expense of his conscience : for in 1622 when the match between the Prince of Wales and the Infanta of Spain, upon which the King had set his heart, was in agitation, he, as Wilson states, amongst the rest, knowing that a toleration of the catholics was to be admitted, (though he stood tottering in the King's favor, and had the badge of a puritan clapt upon him) thought it better to discharge his con- science, though he hazarded all, rather than be silent on such a cause, where the glory of God and the good of the kingdom were so highly concerned ; and thereupon addressed a letter of remonstrance to the King* But His Majesty's resolves in this affair were not easily set aside, and the point being carried by his party, though much against the wishes of the nation, the marriage articles were sworn- 144 BIOGRAPHY. to in the presence of the officers of state: though as appears by History they were never carried into effect. Though now an infirm old man, and unable to assist at council, the Archbishop attended upon the King in his last sickness with the zeal of a grateful and affectionate servant. He was near His Majesty in his last moments in 1625, and with much difficulty contrived to perform his office at the coronation of Charles I. As might be anticipated from the religious opinions of that monarch, the Archbishop speedily declined in favor, if indeed any par- tiality for him may be supposed ever to have existed ; and the result was, that in 1627 he was sequestered from his office & jurisdiction : but in 1628, having become the more popular for being in disgrace at court, he was sent for by Charles to Whitehall, and received from his barge by the Archbishop of York and the Earl of Dorset, who solemnly introduced him to the King to be cordially re-admitted to the royal favor. But alas, what is more unstable than the countenance of a tyrannical Prince ! The Vicar of Brack ley had in 1626 preached a Biography* 145 sermon to prove the King's right of imposing loans and contributions on the subject, which discourse was carried by the new Duke of Buckingham to the King in 1629, and its publication recommended ; but when it came to be presented to the Archbishop, he sent to His Majesty his reasons for declining to give his imprimatur, and though two peremptory messages were afterwards sent from the monarch of this country, the first refusal was still perti- naciously persisted in. The Duke of Bucking- ham resenting this, soon procured an order for his Grace's removal to Foard, near Canter- bury, with injunctions not from henceforth to meddle with the high commission ; from this place of banishment he gave new causes of offence, and was a second time sequestered from his jurisdiction, and certain bishops were in- vested with his ecclesiastical power. A few years after this it pleased the gracious Disposer of human events, to put an end to his cares and infirmities ; for in 1633 the mortal career of this venerable prelate and honest man was closed at his palace at Croydon in the 71st year of his age. 146 BIOGRAPHY* He was buried, agreeably to his own in- structions, in the chapel of our Lady in Trinity Church, Guildford, and was succeeded in the Archbishoprick by Bishop Laud, whose prin- ciples it had been one of the great objects of his life to oppose. — It cannot be supposed that a man of so much eminence, and of so decided a character should obtain the good- will of all historical writers, and the reader of English History will accordingly find many, who, in pourtraying his character, are not dis- posed to place it in the most favorable light. In the absence of all religious party feeling, and with a desire to furnish my readers with opinions on both sides of the question, I con- clude my account with an extract from Lord Clarendon, who writes as follows :— " He had sate too many years in that See, and had too great a jurisdiction over the Church. — He had been promoted to Canterbury upon the never enough lamented death of Dr. Bancroft, that Metropolitan who understood the Church excellently, and had almost rescued it out of the hands of the Calvinian party, and very much subdued the unruly spirit of the non- BIOGRAPHY. 147 conformists; countenanced Men of the greatest parts in learning, and disposed the Clergy to a more solid course of study than they had been accustomed to ; and if he had lived would quickly have extinguished all that fire in England which had been kindled at Geneva ; or if he had been succeeded by Bishop An- drews, Bishop Overal, or any Man who under- stood and loved the Church; that infection would easily have been kept out, which could not afterwards bo so easily expelled. But Abbott brought none of this antidote with him, &c.—*And though many other Bishops plainly discerned the mischiefs which daily broke in to the prejudice of religion, and prevented it in their diocesses as much as they could — yet that temper in the Archbishop, whose house was a sanctuary to the most eminent of that factious party, and who licens- ed their most pernicious writings, left his successor a very difficult work to do, to re- form and reduce a Church into orders that had been so long neglected, and that was so ill filled with many weak, and more willful Church-men," n 2 148 BIOGRAPHY. The Archbishop was born towards the close of the reig n of Queen Elizabeth, lived throug h that of James I. and died 30 years after the accession of the successor of that monarch. ( For an account of his writings see Note G.) At the Free-school of Guildford also were educated Sir Robert Parkhurst, who died Lord Mayor of London in 1635 : and Sir Maurice Abbott, brother of Robert and George Abbott before mentioned, Lord Mayor in 1639. ADDENDA. 149 ADDENDA. Lying-in Charity, — In my account of the Charities page 123, &c. I inadvertently omitted to name one, whose object is as praiseworthy as any of those I have mentioned, being to furnish poor married women with the various requisites during the period of their accouchment. As it is I believe principally supported by that sex to which I have so much cause to be grateful, and whose smiles I esteem the best guarantee of my success, the omission is perhaps the less pardonable on my part: but when I assure my fair readers that I sinned only through ignorance, I trust I shall be believed, and cordially re-admitted to that countenance which it is my proudest ambition to deserve. 150 RAMBLES* RAMBLES. I. — To Chantry-Downs, Albury, Slier and Chilworth. Having endeavoured in the preceeding pages to furnish the reader with every particu- lar of general interest relative to my native town, I shall now proceed to give such a brief description of the surrounding neighbourhood as may direct the curious stranger in his enquiries, and supply the inhabitants, who reside within the limits of the places described, with such information relative to their respec- tive homes as I have been able to collect. In order to accomplish this with more ease to myself, and greater pleasure to my reader, I shall consider him the companion of my excursions, and point out to him the objects worthy of his notice, as they would present themselves before us were we actually taking a Ramble together. Our first trip will be rather a long one, extending to the village of RAMBLES. 151 Shere, at a distance of five miles on the road to Dorking" ; but to the lover of the picturesque it will certainly be replete with that pleasure which will compensate him for a little exer- tion. Leaving Guildford behind us in the north, and having passed the national school and the county gaol, the first prospect I shall endeav- our to describe opens upon us on the right : — three minutes walk will bring us to the most advantageous spot for description; namely, the brink of an immense chalk quarry on the west side of an adjacent field through which the public path passes to Chantry-Downs. In the centre of this delightful picture are the ruins of Saint Catharine's Chapel upon a little hill, at whose northern base stands the principal part of the village of Artington, the rest being upon the hill itself. The river Wey passing the eastern side of this conspicious object, winds through a valley of fertile meadows, till it nearly reaches the foot of the eminence upon which we standi from this place it suddenly changes its course in a northern direction, and abruptly enters the 152 RAMBLES. town on the south. The immense hill called Guild-down rises within a short distance of the western bank of the river : and immediate- ly over the chapel a bold chain of hills, at a distance of 14 miles, forms the back ground. In a direction somewhat to the left of the largest of these, a favorable light will shew us the spire of the Church of Godalming, shooting up amongst the trees at about three miles beyond the chapel. A beautiful hanging wood crowns a hill contiguous to that ruin, and near this stands the neat manor-house of Brabeuf * upon an extensive lawn besprinkled here and there with a few evergreens, which heighten the picturesque simplicity of this part of the prospect. To the right of the manor-house a broad sandy path winds to the summit of a little green knoll, whence an irregular line of hills of no very great extent passes behind Guild-down in a somewhat westerly direction. Beyond the chapel the Wey may be seen as it approaches amidst the green meadows of a * The residence of Mrs. Wight. RAMBLES. 153 spacious valley almost surrounded by hills : — the most distant of these is called Black-down : nearer is a purple looking hill, with one end resembling in shape the segment of a sphere ; it is situated between the village of Hascomb and the Hamlet of Hambledon, and I regret that it exceeds the limits of our rambles, for from its summit the most perfect and beautiful panorama presents itself that I have ever witnessed — and sun-rise once seen from that spot by the admirer of nature, is never to be effaced from his recollection. In the eastern part of the valley before us, the country is more thickly wooded. — At a short distance the dome of Shalford Church, and the top of the neighbouring mansion * rise above the trees which on every side appear to surround them. We will now walk round to the other side of the quarry, and having paused to admire the romantic effect of this extensive ex cava-, tion, as well as to procure a fine view of the * Sh&Iford House, the residence of Mrs Sivewright, 154 RAMBLES. lower part of the town, and the country beyond it, we shall proceed over the hill to- wards Chantry downs, which, as we ascend, rises before us, having Chinthurst hill on the right, and the chapel of Saint Martha upon the left. Descending the hill, and passing through a small grove of firs into another and more ex- tensive one on the hill-side, which from the time it first formed a shelter for the cushat has been a favorite moonlight promenade with the lads and lasses of Guildford, we ascend the path on our left, and soon find ourselves upon that part of the downs which is principally planted with young oak trees ; and continuing our way through a thicket of brush-wood, the Chapel of Saint Martha appears before us. But halt! we must not advance too many paces before we endeavour to find a path-way amongst the bushes on our right. — Now for a prospect which laughs description to scorn. — Let us hope it is the hour of sun-set, that we may seat ourselves upon the friendly bench which some kind hand has erected for our accommodation, and watch the golden light RAMBLES; 155 of heaven as it falls upon the myriad of objects before us. An assemblage of bold and romantic hills, producing only the three varieties of heath, and a few hardy shrubs, occupies the eastern side of the prospect. * The western boundary of this view is also occupied by hills, but more fertile, and at a greater distance. On our right runs the valley before described, with the town of Godalming at its extremity* Before us is Chinthurst hill in the parish of Wonersh, forming the point of separation be- tween the before mentioned valley and another more luxuriant one, which extends over a part of Sussex, till it reaches the South-down hills in the distance. — Gaze then, my readers, till the lingering light fades in the distant horizon: — exult in the b^uty of a hundred hills — dwell with delight upon a thousand fertile fields — and let experience perform the task of description j for I abandon the task in despair. Retracing our steps for a few paces we re- gain a view of Saint Martha's chapel, and * The Windmill upon one of these is at Ewhurst in this County; 156 RAMBLES. decending by a gentle slope, and passing through a couple of fields and a small thicket of hazel trees, we find ourselves at the foot of the hill upon which it stands. As it is a task of some labour to climb the ascent before us, I will, to beguile the wear- someness of the undertaking, furnish my readers with a brief account of the building itself. This place is evidently of great an- tiquity : it was probably erected as a chantry over the graves of some Christians who suffered on the spot ; for the difficulty of access would most probably have induced the parishioners to fix on some more convenient site for the erection of their place of worship ; and in Edward IV's reign, forty days of indulgence were granted to such as should resort to it on account of devotion, prayer, pilgrimage, or offering, and should there say Pater Noster, the Salutation, and the Apostles Creed, or should contribute, bequeath, or otherwise assign any thing towards the maintenance, re- pair, or re-building of the same. Jt was also dedicated to Saint Martha and all holy Martyrs, and is called by some writers RAMBLES* 157 Martyr-hill Chapel. It belonged to the prior and convent of Newark till the dissolution of that house : since which time it has been continued to be used as the parish church of Chilworth, and divine service is still perform- ed in the east end. The nave, which is now in ruins, and without a roof, appears to have been built with the black sand-stone found in the neighbourhood. Here is, or was a short time since, a curious inscription over William Morgan of Chilworth Esq. dated 1602. It contains, as was usual at that period, a pun, or something worse, upon his name " Take from thy name but M, even Morgan's breath, Stopt sweetly like an organ at his death." In introducing my readers to the view from Chantry-downs, I spoke of the hour of sun-set as the most favorable for the enjoyment of its beauties : but if that hour be already past, let them return to their respective homes, and when the first blush of exhilarating morning falls upon the black ruin we have been des- cribing, let the task of amusement be renewed, and the scene of "busy solitude" be revisited. 158 RAMBLES. Turning round, as we advance to tbe sum- mit of the hill, the beautiful valley again presents itself, though with additional objects to fix the attention, and afford matter for description. The hills before-mentioned, and those of Hampshire lie in the back ground : a smaller one between Guildford and Farnham, easily distinguished from its conical form, and the dark color given to it by the heath and ever- green foliage with which it is covered, is called Crooksbury hill. * Nearer is Guild- down, with fields of every diversity of color descending to the narrow valley that forms its southern base. On the north side of the chapel we command an extensive view of a great part of Surrey, but most of the objects are too remote to * It was the sight of that hill which gave the notorious politician Cobbett so much pleasure, when he returned from America; for it led him to contrast the days of his boyhood ^ when he had been accustomed to climb the trees which clothe its side, with the less tranquil, though perhaps more gratifying* period, when by his writings he had attracted the attention of half Europe, and risen from obscurity to the notice of the most distinguished oppositionists of his country, RAMBLES* 159 afford the richness of the landscape we have just left. The eastern view may however vie with most prospects where variety constitutes the principal charm. The downs on our left ex- tend to Dorking", distant about ten miles: before us hills of every form and color pre- sent themselves, and part of the picturesque vicinity of Albury, finely watered, lies at our feet The south prospect and that just described have afforded a subject for the descriptive pen of Cobbett, who mentions them in one of his " Rural Rides." I have not the means of offering his observations to the notice of my readers, but, after eulogizing the landscape for its tranquillity and loveliness, he remarks that it contains two of the greatest curses ever invented to scourge the human race, namely, a set of powder mills and a mill for the manufactory of paper for bank notes. — - The principal objects before us have been described in a preceding page, with the excep- tion of Chilworth, immediately at the foot of the hill, containing the powder mills alluded to, and a paper mill in the tenancy of Mr. 160 RAMBLES. Rowland, which, being for the manufactory of paper for the news offices, and "the Register'* in particular, our politician would not have us consider as included in his condemnatory remark, but rather as a blessing to society. Pursuing our route in an easterly direction, we descend the hill, and, diverging to the left so as to leave a row of cottages on our right, a gentle walk through fields and woods will bring us to Shireburn ponds, * which though now in a neglected state will compensate us for the trouble of a visit, if we can find our way to them; they are situate immediately at the foot of the long range of chalky downs before-mentioned. The water here is of im- mense depth, and as transparent as chrystal, so that the pebbles may be distinctly seen at the bottom, and the finny inhabitants of the liquid element can make no movement which a favorable light will not betray to the by- stander. There are yet some traces of a * These ponds supply the basin and fountains in the garden of Albury4iouse. On the north side of the downs, in Clandon park, rises another spring 1 ; and it is remarkable that both thai, and the spring- by which Shireburu is supplied^ rise and fall at the same time. RAMBLES. pathway winding amongst the brushwood, and leading to a now delapidated summer-house, which, when these ponds were open to the public, was used by tea-parties who visited the spot in sultry weather. In less than half an hour we may expect to find ourselves in the village of Shere. From its low situation, and the quantity of water hereabouts, the chief part of this village must be considered an unhealthy place of residence. It is watered by a sprightly stream, anciently called Tillingbourn, which rises at the bottom of Leith-hill, passes by Wooton Place, and through Abinger, Gumshall, Shere, Albury, Chilworth, and Shalford, and empties itself into the Wey a little above Guildford, supplying many mills of various descriptions in its passage. In this neighbourhood are many pleasant seats and residences, amongst which is one I must not omit to mention, as being the residence of Mr. Bray, Lord of the Manor, and one of the indefatigable authors of the History of Surrey. Mr. Bray is descended from a family which o 3 162 RAMBLES^ ' came into England with William the Con- queror. Soon after James Lord Audley* had suffered the extreme penalty of the law, in 1497, this manor was escheated, and given to that Reginald Bray who rendered so essential a service to Margaret Countess of Richmond, by conducting the affair in which the Duke of Buckingham and Bishop of Ely had pro- jected the elevation of her son Henry to the throne, and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster by his marrrige with Elizabeth daughter of Henry IV. Sir Regi- nald (for he was knighted soon after the accession of the young prince, as well as in- trusted to many places of high employment) is highly spoken of by Hollingshed, who calls him a father of his country, and tells us that if any thing contrary to law or equity was done by the King r he would reprove and advise him w ith firmness. From this gentleman the * This nobleman, who had taken discontent at a subsidy granted to Parliament, joined the discontented Cornish-men in the insurrection, was made prisoner at the battle of Black- heath, led from Newgate to Tower-hill in a paper coat torn and painted, with his amis reversed, and there beheaded. RAMBLES. 163 manor and estate descended to the present occupant. The ancient manor-house has been pulled down for some years; and the offices have been converted into a good dwelling: house. The Church is a handsome and substantial structure: the spire is covered with lead and oak shingles and the tower contains 6 belk and a good clock. As it is not my intention to describe the tombs and monuments of persons of title merely because they have been so, but who have done neither good nor harm to render themselves notorious, I shall perhaps often pass by the splendid mausoleum to describe the lowly and moss-covered stone which contains an inscrip- tion having beauty or singularity to recom- mend it to the notice of my readers. In the Church-yard, under the east window of the south chancel, on a simple head-stone, are the following lines, to the memory of Amelia Caroline Bray, a daughter of William and Mary Bray, who died in early life — 164 RAMBLES. When the fresh rose-bud moist with morning dew, All fair appears, just op'ning to the view, Pleased Hope anticipates its fragrant birth, Nor sees the canker hid within the leaf. Such were the hopes this opening- blossom gave ! Vain hopes ! here buried in a hasty grave ! If Youth should read, and Beauty gently sigh Whilst pity's soft effusion fills the eye, Oh may the thoughts to useful purpose led, Teach them with care the path of life to tread ! Unknown how long to tread that path is given, Prepared to leave it, fix the eye on heaven. We may now venture to return through the northern side of the park of Henry Drum- mond, Esquire : on our way we shall obtain a glimpse of the mansion and the church near it. Turning to the left, as we quit the domains of this estate, we presently arrive in the vicinity of the village of Albury, which is situate below the range of downs before spoken of, and rather farther in the valley than the line of our previous route.* But before we proceed * Aubrey says that in Black-heath, in this parish, were found the remains of a Roman Temple on a plain, a stones- throw eastward from the road to Cranley. In 1693 it is said the ground-pinning was distinctly to be seen, but some time after this, it was dug up for the stone and brick, and many Roman tiles and coins were, and have been since found upon and near this spot. In 1803 Mr. Bray discovered the place, and on digging into the banks they were found to be full of the fragments of Roman tiles. RAMBLES. 165 farther homeward, it may perhaps be worth our while to enter by Mr. Drummond's prin- cipal gate, and pay a visit to the church, which is situate in his park. The tower of this church is at the east end, between the nave and chancel : it is supported by three arches on the east, west, and south sides, and contains five bells. The top is imbattled ; a spire rose formerly over it, but in later days a dome has been erected to supply its place. The nave is separated from the aisle by three obtuse pointed arches, resting on the tower, and on the west wall of the church : the two octagonal pillars that support them stand upon circular bases of Sussex marble. They appear to have belonged to some other building, and Mr. Bray conjectures that they may have been brought from the Roman temple before-men- tioned. The body of the church, and most of the tower is built with sand-stone, and the chancels have been erected with a kind of iron-stone found hereabouts. As we take our leave of this finely wooded park, which contains about 270 acres, though 166 RAMBLES. it was formerly much more extensive, and journey towards Albury, it may not be amiss to amuse ourselves with the history of a gen- tleman who was formerly Lord of this manor. Heneage Finch, second son of the first earl of Nottingham, was a possessor about 1680: he was bred to the bar, and from his persuasive eloquence acquired the nomme de guerre of silver-tongue. In the reign of Charles II. he was made Solicitor General ; but removed by James I. in 1686. He took part on behalf of the seven bishops who were in trouble in 1688 for refusing to authorize the reading of King James' declaration for absolving the test and penal laws,, and he strenuously argued against their commitment, as also against the power of the King to dispense with the laws : it is said that by his zeal he put both himself and his clients in great danger. In 1678 he represented the University of Oxford in par- liament: in James Il's parliament he was chosen for the borough of Guildford: and afterwards was ag^in returned for the Universi- ty. At the begiuning of Queen Anne's reign he RAMBLES. 167 was created Baron Guernsey, and at the acces- sion of George I. Earl of Aylesford, in Kent. The same year he was made Chancellor of the Dutchy of Lancaster, but he subsequently re- signed this office, and died in 1719 at Aylesford. Other remarkable persons who resided in Albury were Robert Godschall, who, when the Clarendon papers were printed in 1767, presented to the editor some original letters, and was thereupon made a Doctor of the Civil Law, and Elias Ashmole the famous antiquary, who lived here during his first wifes' time. The former of these resided at the manor house of Weston Gumshalve, and the latter at another estate called also Weston, now the residence of The Hon. Eobert Clive, son of the first Lord of that name. I know of nothing remarkable in the village itself, excepting that the parsonage house at the lower end of the street is famous for having been the residence of William Oughtred, the celebrated Mathematician, and Doctor Samuel Horsley,the well known opposer of Priestley's opinions respecting man's free agency, as also for being at present that of the Reverend 168 RAMBLES* Hugh M c Neil, a preacher famous for his oratory, and of growing notoriety amongst the calvinistic party. Oughtred the first spoken of, was rector here in 1610, and author of the " Clavis Mathe- matica, &c. " During the intestine wars of Charles I. he was cited before the committee for ecclesiastical affairs, and but for the inter- ference of his friends would have been seques- trated, as many honest men had been before him. He was sprightly and active in his 80th year, and is said to have died in his 86th of an excess of joy on hearing of the Restoration. Doctor Horsley was rector here in 1774 ; but resigned in 79 and was soon after made Archdeacon of Saint Albans. In his charge as Archdeacon, given in 83, he reviewed Priestley's publication respecting the Trinity, and this charge was re-printed and replied to by that gentleman. It was followed by Dr. H — 's 17 letters, and these brought him to the notice of the Lord Chancellor Thurlow, who gave him a stall in the church of Gloucester, observing that those who defended the church ought to be supported by it. RAMBLES. 169 The Deanery of Westminster, and Bishop- rick of Saint Asaph succeeded this preferment, and he died at Brighton in 1806. His works are very numerous, and many of his parliamen- tary speeches have gone through the press. — As a senator he was indefatigable, particularly when questions related to the Church, the French Revolution, or the Slave trade, which latter he vigorously opposed. He is said to have been extremely irrascible, but generous and charitable in the excess. " He was a man whose sagacity seldom in* vestigated without making discoveries, and whose vigour of understanding seldom argued without producing conviction. More learned than artful, more original than polished : if he sometimes startled the reader by his boldness, lie always gave him something to meditate, and something well Worthy to be remembered. What he said precipitately inferior minds might sometimes correct ; but what he deliver- ed upon mature reflection he alone could have communicated." British Critic. In the parish of Albury arc very line open downs for sheep pasture, which where they p 170 RAMBLES, adjoin the boundaries of Merrow are covered with furzes: here are also several commons, and a wood that contains 100 acres* called Netherns' wood. — Collyer's hanger, of about 20 acres, is famous as a cover, and if my readers are desirous of visiting it, any civil fox-hunter will take pleasure in shewing them the way. Pursuing a direction in the course of the Tillingbourn stream, we arrive at Chilworth, This place has nothing of very peculiar in- terest to recommend it to our notice, unless any of us may be curious to examine into the processes of manufacturing gun-powder and paper. The land near the stream is mostly hop and meadow ground, but towards Black- heath it consists chiefly of arable land and coppices* The powder mills here were at no very distant period worked with pestles in- stead of stones. They are by some said to have been the first erected in England ; but this can scarcely be true, for Mr. Evelyn of Long Ditton made powder there, and at God- stone in the 9th of Queen Elizabeth. On the south side of the hill that rises from RAMBLES. 171 the middle of the valley, and upon which stands the church of Saint Martha, was the mansion-house of the Lords of the manor. It continued to be occupied as such till the death of the last of the Randy 11 family, who resided there: it was then converted into a farm- house, and some years ago the greater part of it was pulled down. Morgan Randyll, one of the Lords, represented the borough of Guild- ford in several Successive parliaments, from 1680 to 1715, a period of 35 years, and be- came so much in debt, in consequence of re- peated contests on these occasions, that he was compelled to sell his estate here in 1720 to a Mr. Houlditch, one of the directors of the South sea company. It was afterwards seized, and sold towards indemnifying the dupes of that nefarious bubble : the purchaser was Sarah Dutchess of Marlborough : a subsequent owner was Edward Hill, Esq. proprietor of the powder mills near Hounslow, and it is now the property of William Tinkler, Esq. of Merrow. Tyting in this parish belongs to H. E. Austen, Esq. the owner, and former occupant of Shal ford-house. p 2 172 K A MULES. The best way to Guildford from this place is to pass the mill and residence of Mr. Row- land, cross a couple of fields, and ascend a narrow lane that will bring- us to the foot of Saint Martha's hill. Retracing' our steps we soon arrive at home, and having- regaled our imaginations with enough, in conscience, of the picturesque for one day, begin to look about us for those essential and solid comforts, which form so considerable a portion of the enjoyment of this transitory existence. RAMBLES. 173 Ramble II. To Woodbridge, Worplesdon, and Woodstreet. This ramble is as rural as could be wished by the most fastidious felicity-hunter that ever resolved to rusticate for a season ; but it has few extensive prospects, bold hills, and re- ceding vales to recommend it : here are how- ever " The shelter'd cot, the cultivated farm, The never failing brook, the busy mill, The decent church that tops the neighbouring hill," and all the other et ceteras that conspire to render a country life delightful. But I must cut short my prefactory remarks ; and there- fore, conjuring my readers, for wisdom's sake, not to attempt this walk, excepting upon a fine dry summer's day, lest they get as deeply into the mud as I did into the mire, I resume my descriptions. We now leave Guildford in the South, and passing a neat cottage residence on the right, and that of Mrs. Smallpiece on the left of the road, we appoach to Woodbridge-house, now p 3 1.7 R.iMjfuas. tenanted by The Honorable Colonel Main- warriug Onslow. This house is entitled to our notice for having been the place of abode of Charlotte Smith, the celebrated poetess. She was the daughter of Nicholas Turner, Esquire, who resided here after he quitted the great house at Stoke. Mrs. Smith ended a life of vicissitude and sorrow in 1806, and left be- hind her, in her literary productions, many proofs of her genius and industry. Sensibly awake, as she appears at all times to have been, to the beauties of nature, most of the productions of this authoress are replete with poetical beauty and feeling. Perhaps her two Sonnetts, "On the Nightingale's de- parture" and "To the Moon," have never been surpassed. The second of these is tinctured with that sorrow to which it pleased a» all-wise providence to consign her, during her earthly pilgrimage ; but it bears internal evi- dence of that enviable placidity which deeply affects a heart susceptible of enjoying the beauties of nature in a super-eminent degree. 1 cannot forbear to copy it for the reader to exercise his judgment upon. RAMBLES* 175 TO THE MOON. Qi/tcen of the silver bow ! by thy pale beam J Alone and pensive, I delight to stray, And watch thy shadow trembling in the stream, Or mark the floating clouds that cross thy way. And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast ; And oft I think. — fair planet of the night, That in thy orb the wretched may have rest / The sufferers of the earth perhaps may go, Released by death — to thy benignant sphere ; And the sad children of despair and woe Forget, in thee, their cup of sorrow here. Oh ! that I soon may reach thy world serene, Poor wearied pilgrim — in this toiling'Vcene I Pursuing the direction of a line of road, of late years very much improved by the indi- vidual exertions of James Mangles, Esq. of Woodbridge Cottage, we arrive at the beauti- ful summer residence of that gentleman. — From the bridge over the Wey we catch a glimpse of the lawn that gently descends to the banks of the river, and is laid out in a style of simplicity and elegance, which bespeak at once the wealth, and good taste of the pro- prietor. We will now ascend Woodbridge hill, and once turning to obtain a glimpse of the 176 RAMBLES. pleasing prospect behind us, with the vener- able tower of Stoke church, the mansion of Colonel Delap, and the town we have just left, amongst its most prominent features ; may continue our route over the hilly road on the right, from which we descend to Pitchplace. Passing through this place, which has a good brick manufactory, and crossing the extremity of an extensive heath, the hill, upon which the church of Worplesdon stands, is before us. In ascending we pass near the commodious parsonage house now occupied by the Rev. Mr. Roberts: — and this circumstance reminds me that before I describe the church itself I ought to mention some of those whose duty it has been to officiate within its walls. Thomas Comber, B. D. was rector here in 1615. He was born in Sussex, in 1575, and educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, where in three years he learned the Hebrew, Syriac, and Jlrabic tongues ; and afterwards added Coptic, Samaritan, Chaldee, Persic, French, Spanish, and Italian. He was celebrated as a tutor, and admitted a preacher in the univer- sity : he then went to France, and spent some time with the learned Du Moulin. RAMBLES. 177 After his return he was made chaplain to his Majesty, and advanced to the master-ship of his own college. He was Vice Chancellor in 1631, and also Dean of Carlisle ; but being concerned in sending the plate of the univer- sity to the King, and refusing the covenant, he was imprisoned, plundered, and deprived of all his preferments in 1642. He bore all his sufferings with admirable meekness and pa- tience, and died at Cambridge in his 78th year. A succeeding rector was Dr. Burton, who was born at Wembworth in % Devon, put to school at Ely, and at the age of 17 chosen to a scholarship of Cropus Christi College : he became a tutor when only a B. A. In 1725 he spoke and published a Latin Oration, and after this produced four Latin Sermons. When the settling of Georgia was in agitation, he preached before the Associates, and published " An account of the Associates of the late Z?r. Bray" with a detail of their proceedings* Having been admitted a Fellow of Eton Col- lege, he was presented by that foundation to the vicarage of Maple Durham, in Oxfordshire* Here he found a widow and three infant 178 RAMBLES. daughters, without home, or fortune, and gene- rously gave them an assylum. By whatever motive he was at first prompted I will not pretend to say, but he afterwards provided the lady with a good and affectionate husband in his own person, and the care he bestowed upon her children after her death, is a convin- cing proof that his primary object was not an unworthy one. He was presented by the College aforesaid to the rectory of Worplesdon in 1760, previous to which he had taken the degree of D. D. He died in 1771, aged 76, and was buried in the chapel of Eton College. The day before his death he sent for five or six promising youths, and addressed them with more than his accustomed eloqnence upon some important subject of divinity — this gave his physicians fresh hopes, but the next morn- ing he went off into the sound and placid sleep which precedes man's entrance to eternity. This gentleman set on foot the raising of the causeway near tlje bridge which crosses the Wey between Guildford and Worplesdon : before this the road was subject in winter to such considerable inundations, as frequently RAMBLES. 179 rendered it impassable. He published a work on "The genuineness of Lord Clarendon's History of the Rebellion," edited five tagedies in the Pentalogia, and several other pieces proceeded from his pen, amongst which was his humour- ous description of a journey to Bath. Pie was suspected of being the author of a Work, * which called forth Doctor King's " Praises of Jack of Eton, commonly called Jack the Giant, collected into English metre after the manner of Thomas Sternhold, John Hopkins, John Burton, and others." The Church of Worplesdon is in the tyth- ing of Perry-hill ; it is a stone structure, and dedicated to Saint Mary. At the end of the nave is a long chancel, separated from it by a screen under a pointed arch: three pointed arches resting on two round pillars form the separation of the north and south aisles, and the nave: and a chapel dedicated to Our Lady, is on the north side of the chancel, and in like manner separated from it by two pointed arches resting on one round pillar. Part of this has * Phile'.euthcrus Loudiyeusis. 180 RAMBLES. been fitted up as a vestry room* In 1802 a quantity of old glass was collected, and Mr. Roberts put them into the east window. In the front of the gallery are the arms of Eton Col- lege, to which the presentation belongs. The following curious, but well written in- scription was formerly in the church, and has been preserved by Dir. Symes. It commemorated the virtues of William Smith, Bailiff, &c. of Queen Elizabeth's manor of Worplesdon, who died in 1591. — " If love of prince, if countryes dear regard, If wisdom, wealth, or strength had been of force, If friendly wishes could thy life have spared, Thou hadst yet lived ; but death hath no remorse. Thy wofull wife in tears her days hath spent, Thy children 5 with sorrow downe are throwne, Thy loveing nieghbours doe for thee lament, The poore distressed for thy lack doe groane. The widow, orphant, and the fatherlesse, To whom thou wast a comfort and a stay, With griefe their woe and anguish did cxpresse, When direful fate did wrap thy corpse in clay. Yet though thy body here interred doe lye The grave cannot thy virtuous deeds obscure, Thy life hath purchased to posterity An honest fame which ever shall endure. Here lye thy bones, converted now to dust, Thy soule no doubt, prepared here soe well, Ascended hath the mansion of the just, In endlesse joy and blihse with them to dwell." RAMBLES. 181 From this church-yard, which occupies the very summit of the hill, interesting views of the adjacent country present themselves, and the reader may turn from them to a new enjoy- ment in the perusal of the most extraordinary epitaphs that rusticity ever invented. After an attentive examination, and a few hearty laughs, if he should be of the true Democritic temperament, he will not be astonished to learn, that a few years since these mementos became so excessively ludicrous, as to induce the Rector to issue a general request that no new epitaphs might be engraved or painted, without a previous examination made by him- self. * * This parish gave birth to Benjamin Martin, a self- taught philosopher, who was a plough-boy at Broad-street, and afterwards a teacher of Reading, Writing, and Arithme- tic at Guildford. During this period he studied the Mathe- matics and Astronomy with great diligence, and soon after travelled the C untry with philosophical apparatus as a Lecturer. He then commenced the business of an Optician in Fleet Street where he died in 1782, in his 78th year, univers- ally respected. An attempt was made some years ago to dig a kind of hard coal found in this neighbourhood, but the experiment proved unsuccessful : — and it was here that Sir Richard Weston first cultivated the grass called Nonesuch, which he then intro- duced into England, Q 182 RAMBLES. A pleasing view may be obtained from the lower end of Worplesdon street in the direction of Woking* In returning from this part of the village we pass the public-house, and enter a lane on the right-hand side, at the be- ginning of which is a convenient site for the encampment of a gipsey party : it is protected from the wind by a high sand-bank with a few trees upon its top, and though so near the village, is as secluded as could be desired. We may now descend the steep lane leading in the direction of Woodstreet , advance a few paces to the right, cross the left side of a com- mon, and entering at the upper gate, follow a lane till we arrive in front of a farm house, when crossing two or three fields, we shall find ourselves at the summit of another hill, from which we shall obtain a panoramic view, embracing amongst other objects, Henley Park house on the north, and Martha's Chapel somewhere about the south-eastern extremity* At the foot of the hill, southerly, is what is called Wood-street, with a stately May-pole standing upon a little green plain, a sad me» mento of the " Merrie days of old England," RAMBLES. 183 when men had not learnt to calculate the sum upon which the industrious peasant could exist, like the ox and the horse of his task- master ; but were contented to allow him suffi- cient to promote domestic comfort, and inno- cent enjoyment. Qui-hi of the Edinburgh Magazine has a short passage on this subject, which I dare say he will forgive roe for quoting. "The observances of the May-day, Midsum- mer-eve, and Hallowmas (mingling as they did the Druidical and Classic superstitions, with something, which if not Christianity is far from being inimical to its spirit) were so intimately interwoven with the strong and simple virtues of the elder time, that one cannot help feeling as if the decay indicated a loosening of the bonds of social charity." — Dick Corbet says " When Tom came home from labor, And Ciss from milking" rose, Then merrily went their tabor, And nimbly went their toes." But alas ! the day is gone by, and its remem- brance avails nothing : the boasted improve- ments of modern times have but placed the poor man in a more degraded situation, and he has no choice but to bear it with the best for- Q 2 184 RAMBLES. titude he may. He can now however read, and there is a source of consolation opened to him in that book which will teach him, by holy ex- ample, that a calm endurance of calamity is no less a virtue than the practice of moral works. Bat I declare I have moralized upon a May -pole till we are at the bottom of the hill, and fol- lowing" the eastern road to Guildford. As we proceed we shall obtain on the north side a few snatches of the picturesque, with the Church of Worplesdon in the back ground, that would not form unapt subjects for the sketch-book. Passing a neat little estate, * with a row of poplar trees in front of the house, at Ryde's hill, we once more arrive at Woodbridge, whence a gentle walk will soon bring' us again to the vicinity of the town from which we commenced our ramble. * This is the residence of Mr. Nye, a respectable retired tradesman of Guildford. RAMBLES. 185 Ramble III. To Saint Catharine's Hill and Godalming. Our route, were we to pursue the accustom- ed track, would now keep us entirely upon the turnpike road leading to the town at the ex- tremity of our intended peregrination ; but as I fill this part of my volume partly from nooks and corners, my readers will perhaps thank the way-ward and fickle fancy which induces me to conduct them by a pleasanter pathway. We will however halt at the little hamlet of Arlington to look round us, and to examine what now remains of the Chapel of Saint Catharine. Artington or Ertendon is within the parish of Saint Nicholas, and about half a mile from the limits of the Corporation of Guildford. A little to the right of this hamlet stands the Manor-house of Braboeuf, which has been possessed by the family of the Wights from a period but a few years subsequent to the days of Queen Mary. Mrs. Wight, relict of John Wight, Esq. is the present occupant. q 3 186 RAMBLES. Near this neat little mansion, and on the north side of the road leading from Catharine hill to Losely, is a farm house called Picards, once the residence of the Lords of the Manor of that name. It is now tenanted by Mr. Drewitt, one of the most experienced farmers in the county of Surrey. Sfeawt Catharine's? $t'U, or as it was originally called, Drake-hill, is within the manor of Braboeuf. It is not known by whom the Chapel, which originally stood upon its summit, was built, but it was probably erectedby Henry II. as a place of worship for the tenants of his manor of Artinyton. It is however, certain that the stipend of the chaplain of this place was paid by the crown as lately as 14 Henry III. and a disbursement of 50s. was allowed in the Sheriff's account for that pur- pose in 1230. Shortly after this it is likely that the old chapel went to decay ; for before the 29th Edward I. the parson of St. Nicholas, having purchased the site thereof probably with a view of annexing it to his own benefice as a Chapel of Ease, found it necessary to re- RAMBLES. 187 build it, and in the license for consecrating it in 1317, it is spoken of as being built anew. — About the 2nd Edward III. it was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester, and from that time it was used as a Chapel of Ease to the Church of Saint Nicholas. When it fell into deeay, and how long it has been in its present ruinous condition is uncertain. On each side of this building were two small upright buttresses, which terminated in pinnacles rising above the roof, in the interval between which were the windows three on each side with a circular aperture over that in the middle of the south side. The principal window was at the east end, and there was another over the west door. Besides the entrance on the west there were also two smaller ones on each side ; and at the north west angle stood a turret of a circular form, about five and a half feet diame- ter within : this probably served as a bellfry as well as a stair-case to lead to the roof. The walls were of ordinary stone ; but the pointed arches were for the most part chalk. The ex- ternal wall of this chapel being nearly entire, many traces corroborative of the foregoing description still remain. 188 RAMBLES. From the eastern side of this hill a singularly romantic view presents itself : in this the most striking objects are the town of Guildford, the immense chalk quarry already described, St. Martha's Chapel, Shalford-house, and the fantastic channel formed by the original course of the Wey, winding through the green mea- dows, (if I may compare small things with great) like a silver eel gliding amongst the grass. It is as natural for an Author to be fond of his own production as the parent of his child, and perhaps I may be pardoned for indulging in this place in recollections of early days, when untutored in the somewhat painful experience of riper years, 1 was wont to stray to this spot in the solemn stillness of night, and indulge in those delightful dreams of romantic feeling, which I can but remember with satisfaction and pleasure. If my readers will grant me such indulgence, 1 will lay before them a brief extract from an unpublished Poem, written in the year 1818. As a whole it is unfit for the eye of criticism and therefore never destined to undergo its fiery ordeal. RAMBLES. 189 The part I shall introduce is principally a very humble description of the rising Moon and it will be seen that the ideas which follow it were suggested by the surrounding scenery, " O there are balmy hours of bliss That recompence an age of care, And such a soothing hour is this, When smiles of peace the heaven's wear — See, faintly o'er yon distant hill The rising ray of azure hue ; It brighter glows — now brighter still — One cloudless light of purest blue. Thro' the dark firs on yonder brow Seest thou the smiling crescent peep, And in her silver chariot now Night's queen ascend the spangled steep ? Now is it sweet to take our way Beside the river's rippling stream, And as alone we musing stray, To cheer our hearts with hope's fond dream — Or where the mould'ring wall decays, To pace the desolated aisle, And while we think on other days To catch the gentle moonbeam's smile." Well egotism thou art satisfied ! and now let me tell the reader that one of the merriest and prettiest fairs in the county is held upon this hill on the 2nd and 3rd of October, and num- berless are the lasses, who d'on their Sunday clothes to visit this spot, and many the heavy 190 RAMBLES. sighs that are heaved within miles of the place, if untoward circumstances compel the rustic maidens to forego their annual dance upon the greensward. The charter for this fair was granted by Edward II. in the beginning of his reign, and every inhabitant of the manor is on this occa- sion permitted to sell ale upon paying a small acknowledgment to the Lord. The profits arising from the erection of booths, &c. are said to have belonged to the Rectors of Saint Nicholas, they paying to the Lord 12d. a year : they are now received by the Lord himself. Let us now descend in the best manner we can to the banks of the river, and as we pro- ceed on our way to Godalming through a succession of rich meadows by the side of the stream, I will endeavour to offer some account of Wie litter Wit£. This river, having its source on the border of the county, to the south-west of Haslemere, takes its course by Liphook in Hants. Shortly after, entering Surrey again, it passes, on the north of Frensham, to Tilford Bridge, whence, RAMfcLES. 191 uniting 1 with a smaller stream from Farnham and Waverley, it runs eastward to Godalming, and thence, altering- its course by a gradual flex- ure in the meadows a little below that town, runs northward to Shalford and Guildford. From Guildford it passes north-eastward to Woking, (leaving the town at a small distance on the north-western side) and thence north- eastward and north to Weybridge, to which place it gives its name, and where it empties itself into the Thames. Near Stonebridge, between Shalford and Bramley, it receives the Junction Canal, and at the bridge near Shalford Church a considerable stream (before mentioned) runs into it. The Earl of Arundel and Surrey represent- ed to King Charles 1. the utility of making the Wey navigable, and obtained in 1635, a special commission, impowering himself and others to do all matters requisite for such nav- igation Little was however done till 1651, when the ancient channel was enlarged. After this, controversies as to proprietorship and ownership arising, the work was again aban- doned, and though the matter was frequently 192 RAMBLES. ag itated in the interim, nothing of consequence was effected till 1671, when the navigation was settled and made perpetual. It was extended to Godalming about the year 1760. As we proceed, we shall pass Farley-hill, or Unsted-Wood on our left, where stands the seat of Hutches Trower, Esquire : I shall have occasion to mention this place again in my ramble to Bramley. If my readers are botanists they r uay amuse themselves with the flowers that grow in great variety upon the banks, till they arrive at Godalming : if they are not, let them indulge in their own reflections upon the beauties on every side of them, and there will be no danger of their sickening of ennui till they enter the precincts of that town. Turning to the right, some distance after passing- a new mill recently erected by Mr. Holland of God- alming, we arrive at Mead-row, and the first object of note to attract our attention will be This is a plain building of brickwork, having a small chapel in the centre mid coinmodiouy RAMBLES. 193 garden ground. Over the door are the arms of the founder, and this singular inscription — "This Ospitall was given by Mr. Richard Wyatt of London Esq. for tenn poore men with sufficient lands for their mayntenance for ever, 1622." On the inside of the south wall of the chapel is a plate of brass, on which are engraved the figures of a man and woman kneeling, and three children with each. Over their heads are the arms of the founder, and an inscrip- tion nearly similar to that on the outside is un- derneath. The revenues of this Hospital are vested in the Company of Carpenters, and arise from a farm at Shackleford in the parish of Godal- ming: five poor men of that parish and others of Pultenham, Hambledon, and Dunsfold> were to be maintained at this place. — There was also a donation of 150/. by William Jones, Carpenter, of Saint Peter's, London, but of what date 1 am not certain. He directed that out of the proceeds of the sum bequeathed, 10s. 6d. per annum should be paid to the poor man who reads prayers in the chapel ; and R 194 RAMBLES. that the rest should be divided amongst the remaining poor, and the prayer-reader. Near this building is a small chapel of General Baptists, supported by voluntary subscription amongst dissenters of that per- suasion, and by a trifling sum arising from a donation to the original chapel which was situated at Worplesdon. Three quarters of a mile, and we arrive at Godalming consisting principally of one Street to the south of the river Wey. It is about thirty three miles from the metropolis, and was formerly as famous for the cloth made here as it has recently been for its silk stock- ings and gloves- In this neighbourhood are several mills for the manufactory of flannel and baize, paper, and other articles. This town sends to London from the extensive wharf of Mr. G. Marshall vast quantities of timber, hoops, bark, flour, &c. and like Guild- ford is notorious for the whiteness and ex- cellency of its bread, great quantities of which are frequently carried from both towns by the coaches and other conveyances to the upper parts of' ike county* 0 RAMBLES. 195 The present bridge * was completed in 1783, when it became a county bridge. A weekly market was granted to this place by Edward I. in 1 300, and confirmed in 17. Elizabeth. There are two annual fairs—one one the 10th July, and the other on the 13th February. ®fie Corporation* By a charter of 9. Elizabeth the inhabitants are incorporated by the stile of the Warden and inhabitants of the Town of Godalming, and the Warden was to be annually elected on Michaelmas day. The charter was followed by ordinances and constitutions that were confirmed in 1620, whereby it was provided that the Warden shall have eight of the fittest * Near this bridge, on the Guildford side, are two Lan- castrian schools one for boys and one for girls. The curious in matters of instruction will not misemploy their time by a visit to the former, which is admirably conducted by the present master, Mr. Tickner, whose close attention to the duties of his situation, cannot fail to give ample and general satisfaction. The girls school I have never visited. There are in the town two other schools on Dr. Bell's system, which I hear are also in a flourishing state, as they are more likely to be when no impracticable scheme of uniting two or three systems in one is attempted. R 2 196 RAMBLES. and gravest men of the inhabitants as assistants : such persons to continue assistants during life. An Assistant elected and refusing to serve is subject to a fine, and when a Warden is elect- ed three assistants are put in nomination, and the majority elect, the Warden for the time being having a double vote. The new Warden takes his oath within three days after his elec- tion or forfeits 10/. to the Warden for the time being. — 61, thereof to the use of the town, and 47. for the old Warden himself, who then con- tinues his office. No person having served Warden or Bailiff" can be compelled to serve again for three years. The Bailiff is elected on the same day as the Warden : should he refuse to serve he pays 40s, — 20s. to the town and 20s. to the person elected in his stead. The church is dedicated to St. Peter, it has a nave and chancel seperated by a transept, in the middle of which on four strong arches the steeple is built : capacious galleries are erected over each of the aisles, and at the west end, — The steeple is of timber covered with lead, and contains eight bells. Amongst the Vicars of this town the most RAMBLES. iy ' notorious were Nicholas Andrews, D. D. Samuel Speed, and Owen Manning. The first of these, Dr. Andrews, was ejected in 1643 for idleness; preaching against the calvanistic doctrine then in fashion ; for his affection for popery ; and denying the inhabitants a lecturer, yet refusing to preach : he was further charged with being a tipler, and playing at cards on the Sabbath day ; of denying the eternity of future puuishments, and neglecting to catechize the children on Sunday afternoons, or cause them to be catechised by his curate. Some of the proofs adduced were that he kept cruci- fixes and popish books in his house, and that he went to Southampton with the parson of Compton, and there drank the Pope's health, calling him that good old man. These charges were supported by Sir W. Eliot of Busbridge, Mr. Westbrook, and other parishioners, and the unhappy man during the remainder of his life was hurried about from prison to prison, and sometime confined on ship-board. He died in confinement a little before the resto- ration. Samuel Speed, grandson of the historian, was r 3 1.98 RAMBLES. ejected by the parliament visitors in the time of the civil wars. In the beginning of the Commonwealth, having been concerned in a plot against Cromwell, he went to the East Indies, and attached himself to a company of buccaniers for the purpose of cruising against some of the Usurper's ships. After the restoration he obtained this Vicar- age and became chaplain to the Earl of Ossory, whom he attended in several Sea engagements with the Dutch, and is celebrated for his gallant behaviour in these by Sir J. Birken- head. — " His chaplain he plied his wonted work, He prayed like a Christian, and fought like a Turk Crying — now for the King", aiid the Duke of York With a thump a thump thump." Some time after this he was imprisoned for debt in Ludgate, where he wrote and collected Meditations Divine and Moral in prose and verse, and published the same in 1677 under the title of "Prison Piety ." It is probable that he died in prison about four years after. Of the Rev, Owen Manning, who commenced the History of Surrey which was completed RAMBLES. 199 by Mr. Bray, I need say nothing. His whole life was spent in christian and literary labours; of the latter he has left a lasting record in his works, and of the former perhaps a not much less endurable one was effected by his parishioners, who erected a monument in the church to his memory contrary to his own wishes, to convey their sense of his many virtues to succeeding ages. Near Godalming is the Manor-house of Westbrook, deserving our notice from its having been the residence of General Ogle- thorp, whose promotions were not more nume- rous than his virtues. He was one of the committee for enquiring into the state of the Gaols in 1728, in which duty he indefatigably persevered, and in 1732 was intrusted to con- duct 700 prisoners for debt to America, where he founded a Colony in Georgia. He defend- ed the Colony against an attack of the Spani- ards, and strove to restore our national defence by sea and land. — Last but not least he was the friend of the oppressed negro ! The General is thus spoken of in Thompson's Liberty — 200 RAMBLES. " Lo t swarming southward on rejoicing sons, Gay colonies extend ; the calm retreat Of undeserv'd distress, the better home Of those whom bigots chase from foreign lands, Not built on rapine, servitude, and woe, And in their turn some petty tyrant's prey ; But, bound by social freedom, firm they rise ; Such as, of late, an Oglethorpe has form'd, And, crowding round, the charmM Savannah sees." and by Pope who says " One driven by strong benevolence of soul, Shall fly like Oglethorpe from pole to pole." A ridiculous supposition that the Pretender was in reality a son of Sir Theophilus Ogle- thorp, a former owner of this manor, is con- tained in Mrs. Ann Shqftoe's Narrative, pub- lished in 1706. If I had not a great deal to touch upon in the few remaining pages, I would not omit to transcribe a copy of the beautiful inscription on the stone erected by Mrs. Danford lo the memory of four of her sons. Let no lover of poetry pass through Godalming without a visit to the Church-yard where it is to be found — it will repay hiin for his trouble — and read him a mild and useful lesson upon the uncertain tenure of our existence. RAMBLES. 201 In the parish and neighbourhood of God- alming are many beautiful seats: amongst these are Peper-harrow Park the residence of Vis- count Midleton : and Busbridge now occupied by — Monroe, Esq. and sometime before by Henry Hare Townshend, Esq. whose son the Rev. Chauncey Hare Townshend * has pub- lished amongst his poems some beautiful des- criptions of the scenery, which perhaps called into exercise that tenderness and pathos that so strongly characterize his works. And now my kind readers it is time for us to return ; if however you wish for a memorial of your visit to this place, a beautiful one may be procured at the Library here, in a finely exe- cuted copper-plate of the Church published by Mr. Stedman from a drawing by Mr, Brown. We may return by the turnpike road, and shall find nothing very remarkable that has not already been described, excepting a very extensive and beautiful pond on the left of the road, near Mead-row, and a cave hollowed * This Gentleman's poem of "Jerusalem 1 ' won the Chan- cellor's medal at Cambridge. He has lately come to reside at Baynard's in the parish of Cranley. 202 RAMBLES. out from the side of Catharine hill, which affords no wonderful legend for my page?, and is not that I have heard remarkable for any thing but the droppings of I suppose a spring which are continually falling, even in dry weather, from the sandy roof, upon the heads of those who venture inside. It AMBLES. 203 Ramble IV. To the Race Downs, New land* s Corner, East and West Clandon, and back to Guildford through Merrou\ We will commence tliis trip by ascending- the hill upon which the Semaphore is erected. Passing- that building we continue for rather more than a mile upon the summit of the hill, whence we shall enjoy many delightful pros- pects to the south, particularly one which ex- hibits Saint Martha's Chapel in the middle of the foreground. Turning abruptly to the left, descending a steep green hill, and climb* ing that opposite, we find ourselves upon the Race Downs, This place was famous some twenty or thirty years ago for the races held here, and so great was the concourse of people who then visited Guildford, that very exhor- bitant sums were not unfrequently paid for lodgings and other ' accomodations during the week. A King's plate of 100 guineas, given by George I. is stil! run for at Whitsuntide, or later in the year, as may suit the convenience of the sporting community — the Members plate of 50 pounds or guineas is generally dis- 204 RAMBLES. puted on the second day, and occasionally a Town plate is also added. From these downs a fine view to the north presents itself, with the village of Merrow, and the park and man- sion of the Earl of Onslow a little towards the east, at the foot of the hill. Turning obliquely to the south-east we shall presently arrive at Newland's corner so much esteemed by the neighbouring inhabitants for the delightful landscape which may be here enjoyed, but which is indeed only one of many, equally beautiful, that a trip to Dorking over the chalk hill would afford us. Having spent some time in this picturesque and enchanting spot, we will continue our journey to the north-east till we arrive at East Clandon. At the extremity of this village is Hatch* lands the residence of George Holme Sumner, Esq. late Member for Surrey : — and formerly that of The Honorable Edward Boscawen, who pulled down the old house and built the present one. This latter gentleman was born in 1711, and having entered the Royal Navy early in life, was appointed in 1740 to the Shoreham, in the command of which vessel he RAMBLES. 205 distinguished himself at Porto Bello and at Carthagena, where he stormed a battery at the head of a part of his crew. In 1744 he took the Media, commanded by M. Hocquart, and three years afterwards at the battle of Cape Finis- terre he again captured his old antagonist Hocquart, who had been exchanged. In the East Indies he succeeded in making- himself master of Madras, and returned to England, where he obtained a seat at the Admiralty- board. In 1755 he again sailed for North America, and the evil fortune of Monsieur Hocquart compelled him a third time to strike to his conqueror. In 1758, in conjunction with lord Amherst, who commanded the land forces, he succeeded in red ucing Louisbourg and Cape Breton ; and the year following pursued the Toulon fleet under De la Clue through the straits of Gibraltar, and coming up with it in Lagos Bay, completely defeated it, burning- two ships and taking three. For these services he received the thanks of parliament and 3000/. a year, with the rank of General of Ma- rines in 1760. He died in the January of the following year of a bilious fever. s 206 RAMBLES* The Church of East Clandon is a low building covered with slates and tiles, and contains three bells. It has a nave separated from the chancel by a pointed arch. On the north side is a small chapel in like manner separated from the body of the church, and supported by two large round pillars joined to the wall. A short walk homeward will bring us to WBtnt CtantfOtt, where we shall find nothing very remarkable excepting the mansion of the Earl of Onslow. The Church is a small low building at the southeast corner of Clandon park: it has a nave, chancel, six bells, and a small cupola* As we proceed through the park we shall pass Clandon House* In the time of Henry VIII. here was a hunting box belong- ing to the Westons of Sutton ; but the lands, being disparked in 1642, were purchased by Sir Richard Onslow, then of Knole in Cran- ley : he re-inclosed the park, and his grand- son, Sir Richaid, removed to this place. The house was built by Thomas, the 2nd Earl of Onslow, after a design of Leoni the architect, about the year 1 731 . The east front / K AMBLES. 207 is in the English style, the west has a double flight of stone steps after the manner of French architecture, and the south is Italian, In the hall are two elegant marble chimney pieces by Rysbrach representing sacrifices to Bacchus and Diana, The pa:;k was enlarged, and handsome stables were erected a few years since. — Quitting this place we arrive at The Church here is built with flints with- out, and chalk within : the form of its arches bespeaks it of great antiquity. It has a nave, chancel, and south aisle, separated by round pillars supporting three round arches. At the east end of the south aisle was a chancel sepa- rated from it by a pointed arch, and from the other chancel by a similar one — this has been for many years converted into a burial place for the Onslow family. Within the porch at the north door is a round arch with zig-zag ornaments. At the west end is a square tower containing three bells, and surmounted by a tolerably handsome spire covered with shingles. The bodies of Speaker Onslow and his Lady were removed from Ditton to this place. Now to Guildford at our leisure. 208 RAMBLES. Ramble V. Over part of Guildown to Putt- enham, and back by Compton and Losely Park. This is a walk which, whether taken * " When flow'rs begin to blow and larks to sing :* f " In that delightful season, when the broom Full flowr'd and visible on every steep Along the coppice runs in veins of gold :" — or J " When the wild autumn with a look forlorn Dies in his stormy manhood" is equally delightful. We begin by ascending the hill leading to- wards Farnham, and pursuing our way for more than three miles with the most enchanting prospect on each side of us, arrive at a steep lane leading to the village of JJuttcnltam. where, if we are weary, we need not fear to procure refreshment at the Jolly Farmer from the most obliging of hostesses, Mrs. Litzen- burgh, who will supply us with cream from her own dairy, and a cloth as white as the plumage of the pigeon to give a zest to our repast. At this place there is little to attract our attention but the Manor house and the Church. The former of these stands near * Dr. Leyden + Wordsworth. % Barry Cornwall. RAMBLES. 209 the angle of a large estate, great part of which is paddock, and is screened from the east by a little knoll. The West front is adorned with Corinthian columns and pilasters, and the north with pilasters and a neat cornice. Near the house is a plantation with walks very tastefully formed and an extensive lawn. Many varied and beautiful views present themselves from different parts of this estate. The present occupant is R. Sumner, Esq. : the ' last was Admiral Cornish, whose paternal name was Pitckford, * which he changed on the death of his maternal uncle Sir S. Cornish. The Church, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, is built with brown stone and has a tower at the west end containing five bells and a clock. The tower was formerly surmounted by a spire which was destroyed by fire in 1730. * Under his uncle he went as Midshipman to the East Indies in the glorious year 1759. He acted as Lieutenant Co- lonel of the batallion of seamen who were landed to assist at the seige of Manilla, his uncle commanding' the fleet, and Gene- ral Draper the land forces. In 1782 he commanded the Aro- gant in Lord Rodney's celebrated victory, and afterwards when he became Rear Admiral of the Blue, commanded a squadron consisting of six ships of the line and one frigate, with which he was sent to the West Indies. After various promotions, he was made Admiral of the White ia I80L s 3 2J0 RAMRLES. About a mile from this village is The Church here is dedicated to St. Nicho- las: it is a plain building of stone and flints, and the steeple contains three bells. This building consists within of a nave with north and south aisles, and a chancel. The nave is sepa- rated from the aisles by three arches nearly semicircular, supported by massive pillars with ornaments of great antiquity. At the south door is a round arch with zig-zag ornaments, and another round arch is at the porch. After leaving this place we shall pass through the park of Losely, and obtain a good view of the old manor-house there, the main body of which was built by Sir W. More, in the reign of Elizabeth with stones found in this county. There were formerly two extensive wings to this building* ; but many alterations have been made in the original structure. It still carries with it a venerable and romantic appearance. About 1693 a female descendant of the Mores married *SVr T. Molyneux, and this estate passed into the last named family, one of whom, — Molyneux, Esq. is the present occu- pant. Now to Catharine hill — then Guildford. RAMBLES* 211 Ramble VI. To Shalford, Bramley, and Wonersh, One mile from Guildford, on the Horsham road is the neat little village of Shalford. The Manor-house before-mentioned being remark- able rather for its magnitude than the beauty of its Architecture, we shall only stop to notice the Church, which is built chiefly with stone dug at Nore in the parish of Bramley. It was beg-un in 1789. The tower at the west end is surmounted with a copper dome, and all the quoins are of brick : a semicircular chancel is at the east end, in which is a window of painted glass containing a beautiful representation of the Jlscension, executed by Mr. Eginton of Handsworth, near Birmingham. A well finished monument over the late Mr. Austen, and other memorials are to be found here. A pleasant walk of two miles, and we reach Bramlrg, which was a place of some consideration as far back as Edward, the Confessor. The Church is a Chapel of Ease to Shalford, and is built in the form of a cross : the chancel is separated from the naVe by an obtuse pointed arch. A round arch supports the bellfry containing- 212 RAMBLES. five bells, in a low tower with a small wooden spire. In this parish is Farley Hill. Mr. Parry built a handsome house here some few years since in a situation which commands a capti- vating- view of the adjacent country. It is now the residence of Hutches Trower, Esq. Pursuing a road which diverges on the same side as, and near the church, we arrive at 5