account 
 
 0 F 
 
 Several Travels 
 
 Through a great part of 
 
 In Four Journeys. 
 
 I. From Norwich to Cohn. 
 
 II. From Cohn to Vienna , with a particular' 
 Defcription of that Imperial City, 
 
 III. FromTirwna to Hamburg. 
 
 IV. From Cohn to London. 
 
 WHEREIN 
 
 The Mines, Baths , and other Curiofities of thofe 
 Parts are Treated of. 
 
 Illuftrated with Sculptures . 
 
 By EDWARD BROWN U.D. Fellow ®f the 
 College of Phyficians of London, and of the 
 Royal Society. 
 
 LONDON , 
 
 Printed for Benj. Teeke, and are to be fold at the Sign of 
 the ship in St. Raul's Church-yard. 1677. 
 

 Imprimatur, 
 
 G.fane R.P, D. Hen. 
 Epi Cc.Lond. a Sacris 
 Dom. 
 
 Sept. 2 < 5 , 
 167 6 . 
 
to THE 
 
 READER. 
 
 ^^^^Aving given the Englijh World 
 i|g|i an Account of form remote and 
 feldome travelled Countries of 
 Europe } in the Year , 1675. 
 I remained indifferent ,as to the publishing 
 any thing more , concerning nearer y or bet- 
 ter Jptown placer; a great part whereof 
 hath been delivered by fome good 3 and 
 obferving Writers ; upon which confide- 
 ration 3 though written fome years fence , 
 thefe Papers have not come abroad and 
 had (till remained private , had not the 
 defires of Friends folicited this Publica- 
 tion , and alfo a Promife in my former 
 B>oo\obligdme to fay fomethingof Vi- 
 enna , as libgwife my Journey unto that 
 Place from England^ the Belgian Pro- 
 
 A 2 vinces 
 
To the Reader. 
 
 vinces and Germany • and of my Return 
 from Vienna by Auftria Trans- Danu- 
 biana , Moravia , Bohemia, Mifnia, 
 Saxonia, unto Hamburg ; hereof l have 
 therefore given fome Account in this 
 Wor if, not much engaging into the Policy 
 and State Government of Places , -which 
 have been fo largely delivered, as to maty; 
 up juft olumesfiut have rather fet down 
 what is Naturally , Artificially, Hiflori- 
 cally , and T Geographically remarkable ; 
 together with fome Cufomes and Oc cur- 
 rencies which might be acceptable unto 
 the Inquifitive Reader, or ferve as hints 
 of further Enquiry , to fetch Perfons as 
 may hereafter Travel into thofe Parts. 
 
 A 
 
C « ) 
 A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 NORWICH 
 
 T O 
 
 COLEN in GERMANY . 
 
 N the year 1668. 1 left the large and 
 pleafant City of Norwich ? and went 
 by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in 
 Norfolk , at the mouth of the River 
 Hierus or Yare$ large, fairly built and 
 populous , very confiderable for 
 the great Herring fifliing in the Au- 
 tumn, and the commerce it maintain- 
 eth in theStreights ; Baltick , Britijh and German Sets: 
 With Italians , Frenchy Spaniards, Dutch , Vanes, and 
 Swedes ♦ I was here nobly entertained by that worthy 
 and obliging perfon , Sr. lames Iohnfon , who alfo fur- 
 nifh’c me with letters of Credit , to Amfierdam 5 Franck- 
 fort , Venice and Vienna $ Whereby I was readily and 
 handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had af- 
 terwards occafionto travel, 
 
 B -Augufi 
 
(Oi 
 
 Augufi the 14. about fix a clock at night I went a- 
 board the Jngel-Ketch in Tarmouth Road , a VtfiTel of a- 
 bout^sTuns, and we immediately fee fay I for Rotter- 
 dam', we left St, Nicholas- Savd on the Larboard, arid 
 after th at the Nowlcs , a new Sand , 'nos taken notice of 
 to be ras fed above twelve years before. We kept our 
 courfeall mght , Eaft and by South and Eaft South-Eaft. 
 The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at (he beginning 
 of the night, but the Moon nfvng there appeared nothing 
 but froth. In the morning we difeovered Gravefandt 
 Steeple- It is theenftom upon all this coaft to fend out 
 Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea , and 
 iurnifli them with Py lots to bring them through the lands, 
 and no Ship is torefufeone: Having taken in our Pylor, 
 wefoon difeovered Goree Steeple, and then the Erie/. We 
 entred the River Mo ft , or Maes , a Large and noble 
 Stream, which arifing in the Mountaines of Vauge , or 
 Vfgefas , pafiing by Verdun , Dinant , Namur, Liege , 
 Maejlricbt , Ruremond , Venlo , and many confiderable 
 Places , doth here fail into the Ocean, we had a very 
 pleafant paflage up the River , fay ling by many neat Vil- 
 lages , as Maefe-jiuySy Schedam , Delfshaven , andhand- 
 fome rowes of Trees upon the fliore, and arrived at Rot- 
 terdam about fix at night. This is one of the three chief 
 palTages by Sea into Holland^ the other being by 
 Flujhing and the T exelL The neareft cut out of Eng • 
 land into Holland is from Laifloffe Point to Grave - 
 fandt , which is 28 Leagues., and the deepeft part 
 of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of thegrea- 
 teft Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam , the 
 Crane and the WaJJenaer ; this latter built in lieu of that 
 in which Admiral Of dam was blown up, fighting againft 
 his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Torke. The Heads or 
 Keyes between which we entred the towneby w ater are 
 
 handfome 
 
( 3 ) 
 
 bandfome , and Ships of great burden are received into 
 the middle of divers ftreets without difficulty , ( their 
 Channels being deep and large) the houfes are well built, 
 and the town Populous , they have an Exchange or place 
 for Merchants to meet at , the ftreets are fo clean that the 
 Women goe about in white Slippers, they being paved 
 with Bricks laid edgwife. The Landthuife hath a fair 
 front. In the great Church the Organs , the Tower and 
 the Monument of De wit , upon the Bridge the Statue of 
 Erafmus , as alfo the houfe where he was born , and the 
 Pleafure boats of the States are worth the feeing* It be» 
 ing then the timeof theii Kermis or Faire , there were 
 playes afted and many rarities fhewn.as Lions , Leonards, 
 8cc, and a great noife was made about a tall Woman to be 
 fhewn offeven foot high ; but the Boor of Leckertyrk^ 
 not far from this town , was higher Parfons and Evans , 
 porters to King Charles the firft,did a’fj exceed her , but 
 I have feldom heard of any that was taller than ^Martin 
 Wierwfki a Polander, who at the age of forty two years 
 was prefented to the Emperour ^Maximilian the fecond* 
 as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high ? whofe 
 pifture,as big as the life, I faw,near to the Francifcans Con- 
 vent at Vienna in Auftria. 
 
 From Rotterdam I pafled by Overfchee to Delft , by 
 the Powderhoufe , which is a handfome one , built now 
 at fomediftancefrom the towne to prevent the like acci- 
 dent which befell when the former took fire and blew up 
 part of the town. The Piazza or market- place is a very 
 fairone, having the front of the town houfe at one end 
 of it, and the highfteepleof the new Church at the o- 
 ther. In the old Church, Van-Tromps Tom.be is very 
 well carved upon thefideof the Wall , himfelf lying up- 
 on a Canon encompaffed with Arms and trophies. 
 In the middle Ifle of the new Church there is a noble 
 
 B 2 monument 
 
< 4 )_ 
 
 monument, the Tombe of William of PJaJJaw Prince 
 of Orange, together with his Wife and Son, Prince 
 Maurice^ his Statua is in armour with bisDog at his feet, 
 and four Obelisks are fupported by ten Marble pillars. 
 In a houfeofthis Town there were fhewn me in aWali 
 the marks of the bullets (hot at Prince William , 
 who was thereby munhered 1584. and in another 
 Church which was broad and fpacious I faw a handfome 
 Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgans Lady, and the Monument 
 of Veter Hein the Admiral , who took the Spanijb Silver- 
 fleer. 
 
 The Hague, Haga Comttis , the ancient place of Refi- 
 dence of the Counts of Holland , and now of the States ge. 
 neral; is about an h:ursgoing diftant from Delft ; in 
 which pa(Tage,at fomediftance,\ve had a fight of two of the 
 Prince of Orange's houfes. This placeis well built; the 
 Prince’s Court handfome ; The Piazza by it full of green 
 trees ; many fair Houfes. TheCourfe where the Coach- 
 es meet, the Pall-mall , the Wood, the Fark, do much 
 beautify it, and the way from hence to Scheveling , from 
 whence his Majefly returned into England^svexy remark- 
 able , it being a (Wight way cut [hrough the Sand-hills, 
 and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each 
 hand four or five rows of Trees , and Scheveling Steeple 
 at the end ofir. 
 
 The Hague and Madrid in Spain are accounted the 
 greatefi: Villages, or open unwalled places, in Europe, and 
 the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Malleus 
 of the greatefi: Village, thanofaplace which, if it were 
 walled , would come fliort of many Cities; but this may 
 prove a dangerous refolution, for formerly upon this ad- 
 vantage, Martin van Roj[em, Captain to the Duke of 
 Gueldres , facked the Hague 3 and it was lately in the like 
 danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and \Vor- 
 
C 5 ) 
 
 den> if chey had forced a pifTage into shit part of Holland , 
 Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the 
 Hague , ac prefentoneof theneateft Towns in Europe \ 
 Well built , hath divers large Streets, beautified with 
 rowes of Trees , and the water pafling through the middle 
 of them . andalfo well fortified after the modern way; I 
 took notice ofihat Antiquity called Ihngijt Caftle , or 
 the Berg , faid eo be built by Hengijl ih % Saxon, and 
 went up to the top thereof ; Upon the top there is now 
 an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a We ll, 
 out of 'which , they told us, they took a Fifh alive- when 
 the Town was almoft faimfhed during thefiege, which 
 was Hie wed to the Enemy over the wail , endeavouring to 
 make their condition to appear better than it was , and 
 to difhearten the befiegers. There are now handfon e 
 fiairs from the top to the bottom, and a good houfe 
 built by it , where they have their publick Tales and en- 
 tertainments* But a nobler Antiquity lie r h under the Sea, 
 than any above ground ; not far from hence near Catwyck 
 is a fquare fort rtfs called Jrx Britannia, built by Caligu* 
 U\ in the declining of the Romm Empire ruined in part 
 by the Normans, and afterwards negieded 5 & overwhelm- 
 ed by the Sea. But imfome years* and great retire of 
 the Sea , the mines have been difeovered , and many no- 
 ble Antiquities brought from it, fume having this in- 
 feriprion Ex. Ger> Inf. ex Germania inferiori. The 
 Stadthuije hath a fair front towards the ftreet. In the 
 Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeleton s. 
 Two legs of an Elephant. The Skeleton of a young 
 Whale , ofa Horfe , Deer , Cow , Cat, Eox , and many 
 other Animals; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, fome 
 bodies preferved with their Mufcles, and one intire , the 
 flefii , skinandal! parts defended from corruption* I 
 fawalfohere what Monfieur de Bils pretended towards 
 
 the 
 
C 6 ) 
 
 the prefervation of Bodies , but more accurately after- 
 wards at Dr. Ruifch his houfe at Amjlerdam The Pbyfick- 
 garden, although but final!, is well filled with Plants, where 
 are alfomany other both natural 3 and artificial! Curio- 
 fities to be feen, and many forts of Of tick -glaffes. 
 Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the 
 Officina Elzevirian* on the top. In the Churches I 
 faw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a 
 Pifiure in the Chamber for the Burgermafiers, reprefenc- 
 ingtheday of Judgment, drawn by Lucas van Leyden , 
 fomuch efteemed that, it is faid, the Emperour Rn» 
 dolfhus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as 
 would have covered it. The Table alfo upon which John 
 of Leyden wrought whilft he was a Taylor, is a Curiofity, 
 becaufe he proved afterwards fo confiderable a diffurber 
 of Germany, and came to be King ofth t Anabaptifls. 
 
 This City endured a hard fiege by the Spanijh forces, 
 and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they 
 faved chemfelves by overflowing the Country, and fo 
 forcing the Enemies to make away with great lofs ; and 
 afterwards coy ned a memorial-Medalt with thislnfcrip- 
 tion. 
 
 Ut Senacherib a Jerufalem, /ic Hifpani a Ley da noffu fa- 
 gerunt * 1574. 
 
 From Leyden I came to Haerlem , a neat City , plea- 
 fantly feated and having a Grove near it. The great 
 Church is efteemed the largeft in Holland, with a very 
 high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many Infcriptions and 
 Monuments , moft of which are tranfcr bed and fet down 
 in Gotfr* Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum . In the Prin- 
 ce’s houfe are aM the Ear es of Hoi and Painted upon the 
 wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-houfe , the Pift- 
 ureof Laurentius Cojlerm , who is faid to have firfi: in- 
 vented the art of Printing in this Town 3 but others attri- 
 bute 
 
( 7 ) 
 
 bute it to Johannes Gottenberg , a German, On the ci- 
 ther fide there is a Figure of a Ship with Saws , in* memo- 
 ry of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly ta- 
 ken by thofe of this Town , who, as they report, accom- 
 panied Frederick E a? bar ojfa in an expedition againft the 
 Saracens , and w hen the men of Felujium or I) ami at a had 
 chained up their Port, by this invention of fanning 
 (hong Paws to the keels of their Ships , they cut the 
 chains in funder 5 and fo took the Town, fn the rooms 
 are very good Paintings by liemskerk , and Goltzius , as 
 his J Prometheus and other Peeces ; but Cornelius van 
 Haerlem rnoft delighted me, in his peeces of Rerods kil- 
 ling the Innocent Children; his feaft of the Gods, in 
 which Vu leans foot, is eftcemed at a great rate 3 and ano* 
 ther Picture of a Frier and a Nunata Collation, not infe- 
 riour to the reft. 
 
 The old Mens houfe , or an Hofpital for fixty aged 
 perfons , is large and handfome ; having a good Qua- 
 drangle and a Garden in it. The Hofpital alfo for the 
 fick is very cleanly kept. 
 
 Here 1 fir ft faw the manner of punifbing Malefaft- 
 oursby whipping them with rods , which is more fe- 
 vere than I imagined ; they lead them to a Port upon a 
 fcaffold , their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as 
 high as they can be extended, and then an Iron faftned a* 
 bout their waft to keep them fteady; in wTich firetched’ 
 out poll ure they receive fometimes fifty or fixty ftripes 
 or more , according to the merit of t heir offence* 
 
 Not far from this place there is a great Water , or no. 
 ted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in 
 length , w’hich is frozen over in hard Winters , and men 
 fwiftly travel over it by Aiding, or in fleds. When Haer- 
 lem was befteged there was a Naval fight upon it ; The 
 Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Veffels, and the 
 
 Spaniards 
 
C 8 ) 
 
 Spaniards not many fewer. The Town was afterwards 
 taken by Compofition , but fuch cruelty was ufed by the 
 Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it. 
 
 From Haerlem 1 went to Jlmjlerdam , a City at pre* 
 fent for Riches, Trade, Shipping , fair Streets, and 
 pleafant habitations, fcarce yielding to any other of the 
 World .It is feared upon the River Y e , and hath its name^ 
 as Vis reported, from a CafHe appertaining longfince to 
 the Lords of to whomthis place a lfo belonged: 
 
 At the beginning, the feat of a few fifliermen ; but after- 
 wards increafmg, it received many priviledges from the 
 Counts of Holland, and was made a Town or City by the 
 favour of their Grams and Charters. In the year 1470. 
 it was walled about with a Brick-wall ? to defend it a- 
 gaintt the Citizens of Utrecht, they having been in great 
 danger to have fallen into their hands , if thofe of Utrecht 
 had purfued their victories* la few Months after alfo, 
 the whole Town was altroft reduced to Afhes by fire, but 
 by the incre3fe of their Traffick they eafiiy overcame 
 thefe loiTes , waded through all difficulties, and rcndred 
 good fervices to their Counts , and received the honour 
 afterwards from Maximilian theEmperour to have the 
 Imperia 11 Crown over their Armes, which are three Crofi 
 fes on a Pale 
 
 About the year 1525. Gelenfcnt from the new King 
 ofMu n [ier, pa (Ted chr ov.ghFr iejland and came to thisCity; 
 where having made a party, and communicated his de- 
 fign 3 herefolved to furprize the Town by night , at the 
 time of the founding of the Bell ; to which intent they 
 were already cntred the Market place , had fet upon the 
 Town houfe ; and cut in pieces thofe who refitted them. 
 When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was 
 taken away ; the Magiftrateshad notice of it, and caufed 
 all the flreets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to 
 
 be 
 
CO 
 
 be flopped up with Woolfaeks and Hopfack^ whereby 
 they werehindred in their defign of taking the Town by 
 Highland the next morning their number being difcover- 
 ed to be inconfiderable, they were Pet upon, driven into 
 the Stadthutf,and defeated. 
 
 Of late years this City is mightily encreafed and en- 
 .compared with a new Wall 5 and fortified after the modern 
 way* Thenew Streets are large and uniform : and the 
 /whole Town being in a low Marfiy ground, the water is 
 let in through all the confiderable Streets. The River 
 jimftel pafTeth through the City, being let in under a 
 handfome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which 
 is fo built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart, 
 and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon 
 Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly 
 into the Earth fo thick together, that nothing more can 
 be forced in between them : And by this means they build 
 Houfes in the Sea, and lay Foundations ftrong enough to 
 fupport the greateft Buildings wbatfocver, in places 
 where no folid bottom is to be found. But they mufl: 
 needs be at a great expence and labour before they can 
 lay the firft Scone : And the number of Trees required 
 to each Foundation is confiderable 5 fincefor the Foun- 
 dation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over againft the 
 Church of Sc. Katherine , Mr. J. de Pariva[l,whQ wrote 
 Les Delicesdela HoUande , reckoneth that there was ram- 
 med into the ground a ForreJl y as he calls if, of Six thou- 
 fand three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About 
 this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations* 
 I fa w them employed in divers places, particularly at 
 the Eafi- India* honfe y and at a place where a Lutheran 
 Church was thendefigned to be built. So that it was not 
 improbably Paid, That if a man could fee all under thk 
 
 r eater Forreft. 
 C 
 
 The 
 
hoy 
 
 The StaMuuor TcwK-houfe, is the nobJeft Building 
 in all theft Countries. A Pile of Freeftoneof an hundred 
 and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified 
 Front of the Church of St. Peter s at Rome > and eighty 
 one paces deep, or on the Tides. The Chambers in it , 
 the Figures and Statues are worthy to be Teen and admi- 
 red, The firjft Room on the right hand, or 'judgment- 
 hall, where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is a- 
 dorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in 
 mournful poflures, as if concerned or grieving at what 
 was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble ; the 
 Roofs are richly giTc and painted. Upon the top of all 
 ftands jftlas or Columlm, holding a Globe upon his fhoul- 
 dtr made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which 
 Isas large perhaps as any Ball or Globe what foe ver em- 
 ployed to this ornamental ufe. That upon St. Peter's at 
 Rom, as having been in it, I judge to be lefts as like- 
 wife that at Florence. The Turkifh Ornament to the 
 Tower of their Mofqttes-, is three Balls one above another, 
 and ah half Moon over them, but they are lefs by far, at 
 leafl fucbas I havefeen : and by relation from Eye wic- 
 nefies, the largefl: of the three noble gilded Balls atMo- 
 ncco are inferiour to this. But I will fay nothing 
 more of this great building , the Stadthuis , fi nee 
 there is a peculiar defeription of it in Folio , with Cuts 
 and Figures of the moft remarkable Curiofities in it. 
 The Exchange is fair and large, and above it are Shops:*, 
 it is very well frequented 5 and he that cometh after twelve 
 pay eth fix ftivers* 
 
 Divers oftheir Churches are fair: In the new Church, ! 
 the partition with Ballifters of Brafs, and the carved Pul- 
 .pit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of Van 
 Bulfr and Heemker 4 are remarkable* Heemskerk did 
 lis Country great Services in their firft attempts upon in* 
 
 ^ dia tz ; 
 
(llj 
 
 dia : for the King of Spain having confifcated fotue of the 
 Hollander $ Ships, who traded to his Dominions , which 
 were then the Staple for the India Trade. 1 1 was refol ved 
 by thepermiffion of Prince Maurice and the States, to fee 
 out a Fleet of eight (hips for the Indies ; four of which 
 were to pads by the way of the J.tlantick Ocean, and the 
 Cape of Goo^ hope : And the other four were to fearch a 
 paffage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and china by 
 the North*eaft, whereby the paffage alfo into thofe parts 
 might be expected much (barter chan that which was 
 known to the Spaniards . 
 
 To this intent thefe four Jafi vefiels failed out of the 
 2 Vjc el y June 5. i <94. and returned in September , not be- 
 ing able to proceed by reafon of the Ice. But upon the 
 relation of the Voyage by William Barenfon, there were 
 two ocher Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla\ in 
 tbeiaftof which they wintered there, and Barenfon loft 
 his life. Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which 
 returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears 
 and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had 
 been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into 
 India^Upon whofe happy returns the Holland. Eajl-lndia 
 Company was firft eftablilhed, and a prohibition made 
 for any other of that Country to trade thither for the 
 fpace of One and twenty years. 
 
 But to proceed to other publick Buildings in thisCi- 
 ty. The ‘luchthuis or Rajpelhuk , or Hou fe of Correftion 
 for debauched young men, fuch as are incorrigible and dif- 
 obedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the 
 Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Embleme^ with this 
 Infcription, Virtutis eftdomare qu£ cuntii pavent* This 
 was formerly a Monaftery belonging to the Nuns of the 
 Order of St, Clare, and converted to this ufe 1595* They 
 who are put in. are forced to work and gain their Bread 
 
 C 2 with 
 
with hard labour, I faw thofe who rafped Brazil, having* 
 a certain task fet them every day, work fo hard, that be- 
 ing naked and in a fweat,and the duft of the Brazil* wood 
 flying upon them , they were all over painted of a beau- 
 tiful red colour. Which odd fight made me call to rhind' 
 thePhanfieof my Lady Marcbionefs of Newcajile , of a 
 Nation wherein the People were ofOrange-tawny colour, 
 and the King of Purple. 
 
 They told usthatfome that were committed to their 
 charge, and rsot to be brought to work by blows , 
 they placed in a large Cifrern, and let the water in upon 
 them, placing only a Pump by them for their relief, 
 whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to 
 free thcmfelves from drowning. One we faw put into a* 
 sarrow Dungeon, and kept from mear. Some are put into 
 this Houfe for a longer time, fome for a fhorter. Ic hath’ 
 been a punishment for fuchas have drawn their Daggers, 
 or offered to flab any one. And fome Citizens , though 
 able and ricfrenough, contrive it fo, that when their Sons 
 are extravagant and mafterlefs, the Officers feize upon 
 them, and carry them into this Houfe, where they are not 
 forced to any hard labour, but kept in till theyfee fbf- 
 ficient figns of amending their life. 
 
 This way of Correftion may feem fevere to many , yet 
 is not comparable to that which isfaidto have been for- 
 merly ufed in Germany Particularly at Cohn, in the 
 white Tower $ at the North end of the Town, near the 
 Rhine ; where it is reported, that fuch Youths who 
 were not otherwife to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous 
 manner fliuc up in the white Tower. The height and 
 tbicknefs of the walls fecured them from efcaping, or 
 from their complaints being heard. Near the top was 
 placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the laft remedy 
 againfl flarving, which while their bold' necefficy forced 
 • v'v. " ’ •• 0“ ' them- 
 
*3 ) 
 
 med their- laft ftntence Upon 
 themfelves, andmiierably brake their own necks. 
 
 Somewhat like th zRaJpelhuit is t\\z-'$pwhuisjQi Houfe 
 of Correction, for the young women who live loofely, 
 are taken in the night s or can give no account of their 
 living. They are put in for a certain time, according as 
 their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, few, or* 
 employ their time perpetually in fome boneft labour, 
 
 Thofeof the better fort are permitted to have Cham- 
 bers apart. In one large Room 1 faw about an hundred 
 of them, and fome very well drefled and fine, which 
 was an unexpected fight to me, and would fure be more 4 
 ftrange to behold in France and England. 
 
 The WeeJhuM) or Hofpital for Children , where there 
 are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked afcer,and well 
 educated. 
 
 The Dolbm, or a Houfe for iuch as are Delirious , Mas 
 jriaca!, orMelan'cholical of both Sexes. 
 
 Th t'Gaflhuk, or Hofpital for the Sick, being 'large, and 
 hath a great Revenue. 
 
 The Mannenhuu, or Hofpital for old Men , and fucbf 
 as are no longer able to labour towards their own fup- 
 port. 
 
 Belides all which , there are great Sums of mony col- 
 le&ed for the poor, fo that there is not a Begger to be' 
 feen in the Streets, and upon all afiignations or appoint- 
 ments of meeting at the Tavern, orelfewhere, and uporf 
 many other occafions, whofoever faileth to come at the 
 exaft time , forfeiteth more or !ef$ to the ufe of the 
 Poor, 
 
 ThtEafi-lndUEmfes are remarkable 5 and the great 
 Stores of their Commodities , Cinamon , Green-ginger , 
 Gmphire , Pepper, G/tlecnts , Indico, &c. The (hips are of 
 a great burden ? their Houfe was then enlargtngjakfrouglt 
 
 them to reach at, they exe< 
 
04 ) 
 
 it was great before; andaperfeft Town for all Trades 
 within it felf. 
 
 The Admiralteyt, or Admiralty where their Stores for 
 War and Shipping are laid up* is encompaflfed with wa- 
 ter* near to it there lay then 7 2 Men of War. In theHoufe 
 we faw their Cables, Grapling irons, Pullies, Oars, Char- 
 ges for Powder, Lanthorns for (hips, &c* At the en- 
 trance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it* 
 dryedup, fo as to be preferved from corruption, and a 
 Paddle in his hand : he was enclofed up to the v/afte in 
 the Canoe , in fuch fort, as the Fifii-skins, which were the 
 cover to it, being fo fewed together that no water could 
 get in, he might keep the Sea in the greateft Storms with- 
 out danger. The top of this Houfe, as of divers others 
 alfoin this City, is aRefervatory for Rain-water , ..which 
 they have the more need of, becaufe they have little good 
 water hereabouts. 
 
 Thefaireft Streets in the Town are Rarlem-fireet , the 
 Cingel , Princes Graft , Kaifers Grafts and the New Build- 
 ings in the lfland towards Gottenburg. And if they con- 
 tinue to build with Freeftone.they will flill furpafs thefe, 
 which, rle aflureyou, are in no fmall meafure beauti- 
 ful. 
 
 I faw a Globe to be fold, made by Vingbomes , between 
 fix and feven foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thoufand 
 Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of brafs, coft a 
 thoufand Guldens. The Globe is made of Copper-plates 
 excellently well painted , with all the new Difcoveries in 
 it, as that of jlnthony Van Dimom Land, found out 1 642. 
 in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 1 7oof Longitude, 
 thofe towards the Northweft of Japan, and thofe places 
 both about AT* Z. and alfo in theTartarian Sea beyond 
 the Streights of Vojgais, New- Holland, WeJl-FrieJland^Cape 
 d'Ryveri&c, but 1 have fince met with a Book , which 
 
 doth 
 
(r$ ) 
 
 doth fomewhat contradift this; entituled ATi>yage into the 
 Northern Countries by MonjieurMdiXtiMexz, who went in 
 one of the three fhips belonging to the NoribernCompany 
 of Copenhagen^ in the year 1653. and by that means had 
 occafion toconverfe with the Norwegians,] (lander s\ Lap- 
 landers} Kilops , Borandians , Siberians, Zemblians , and 
 Samojedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tin* 
 gorjes , in his 46 Chapter he exprefieth himfelf after this 
 manner. There having fallen into my hands feveral Geo- 
 graphical Charts of fundry eminent and much celebrated 
 Authors, I am much amazed to fee how they are miftaken 
 in the pofitionof Zembla , which they place much nearer 
 the North Po’re than really it is ; they divide it likewife 
 by the Sea from Greenland \ and place it far diftant from 
 it, when as indeed thofe two Countries are Contiguous * 
 theCoaftsof Greenland buttingupon the Coafts of Zem- 
 bla, fo as did not the great quantity of Snow 3 and the 
 violence of the cold render thofe Borders uninhabitable, 
 thepalfage would be very eafie by Land from Greenland 
 to Zembla , and from Zembla paffing the Pater-nojler 
 Mountains to enter into Samojedia, from thence into Tar* 
 tary or ^Mufiovy, as one pleafed : But of the truth of this 
 weffiallbe further informed at the return of Captain 
 Wood, 
 
 I was amazed likewife to fee they had deferibed the 
 Streight called Voygat , not above ten French Leagues in 
 length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch 
 Leagues, which is fix times as much. Again, they would 
 
 perfwadeus that through that Streight our fliips might 
 pafs into the great Tartarian Ocean , which is a miftake. 
 And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of 
 Prince Maurice of Najfau, a Dutch VefTel pafied that way 
 into that Ocean, yet it is a manifeft errour , that Streight 
 being bounded %- as I faid before, by the JPater-nopp 
 
 Mountains^ 
 
- * (16) 
 
 Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of 
 them covered with perpetual Snow, which never dif- 
 folves. And of this I can give a pofitive teftimony, ha- 
 ving beenmyfelf in that Streight under thofe Mountains 
 in the Dog-days, which is the hotted time of the 
 year. 
 
 From the Steeple of the Old Church of Amjlerdam y I 
 had a good profpeft of the Town, and the great number 
 of (hips lying upon one fide of it, like a Wood; and all 
 the Towns about it. The Roofs .of the Houfes being 
 iharp , it is a moft uneven Town to be looked upon 
 downward, as it is a handfomeoneto be looked on up- 
 ward; and is not fodivertifing or pleafing to the fighr ? 
 as fome Towns in France and Italy, which have flatter 
 Rooftj or elfe are covered with a fine black Slat or Ar- 
 doife. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, 
 a Trumpet is founded at Midnight, and in other parts of 
 the City at fix a Clock night and morning* At eleven a 
 clock, the time of going on to the Exchange , there is 
 v good Mufick at the StadthuU^ given by the Earl of Lei - 
 eejler . They make good Harmony alfo every hour in 
 playing upon their Chimes and Bells in moft Steeples, 
 And there is a Mufick-houfe or Enterraining-houfe, where 
 any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears moft forts of Mu- 
 fick, feethmany good Water- works, and divers motions 
 by Clock-work, Figures, and other Di ver tifements. 
 
 During my flay at Amjlerdam, I had the opportunity 
 of feeing divers Learned Men , and Perfons of Note, 
 Dr* us many Curiosities in Anatomy , . as 
 
 the Skeletons of young Children, and Eatw’s of all A- 
 gcs, neatly fet together, and very white ; the Lywpba- 
 tick veffels fo preferved, as to fee the valves in them* A 
 Liver excarnated, fhowing the Minute veffels, all fliining 
 v and clear. The Mufcles of Children diflefled and kept 
 
( 17 ) 
 
 from corruption : entire Bodies preferved ; the face of 
 one was very remarkable, without the lead fpot or change 
 of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what 
 might be expefied immediately after death : he had then 
 kept it two years, and hoped it would fo continue. Dr« 
 Swammerdam flhewed us divers of his Experiments which 
 he hath fet down in bis Treatife De Re (pir&tione ; and a 
 very fair Collection of Infefis brought from feveral 
 Countries; a Staggfly of a very great bignefs ; a w Indi- 
 an Seolofendria, or forty feat ; a fly called Ephemeron , and 
 many other Curiofities. Old Glawber the Chymifl fliew- 
 ed us his Laboratory: And we received much civility 
 from Elafm the Phyfick ProfefiTour who hath wrote a 
 -Comment upon Vefltngm , 
 
 The Jews live more handfomly and fpfendidly here , 
 than in any other place : Their chief Synagogue is large, 
 adorned with Lamps of Brafs and Silver, We happen- 
 ed to be there at the Feaft of their Newyear ; fo that 
 their blowing of Horns , flhowting and Tinging was not 
 omitted : Some of them underftand divers Languages. 
 
 I faw one Mofes di Pas, a Learned young Man,and Orobu 
 a Phyfician of Note, And I was forry to fee divers here 
 to profefsthemfelves publicity Jews, who had lived at 
 leaft reputed Chriftians, for a long time in other places. 6 
 One who had been a francifian Frier thirty years ; and 
 another who had been ProfeflTour fome years at iholouze , 
 and before that Phyfician to the King of Spam. Judo, 
 Leo a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of 
 the Temple of Solomon , of Solomon's Houfe, the Fort of 
 the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Ifraelites encamping , 
 and other Curiofities. I was prefent at the Circumcifi- 
 on of a Child 3 which is performed by thrufting a Probe 
 in between the Gians and Pr<eputium, and feparating it, 
 or dilating the Pr<epttfim, fo as the inward Skin may be 
 
 D drawn 
 
08 ) 
 
 drawn forward as well as the outward; then by apply* 
 ing an Inftrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a 
 Seftor, the Skin is held faft beyond the Gians, and with 
 a broad Incifiomknife, or Circumcjfion- knife , the 
 Foreskin is cat off clofe to the Inftrument ; and what 
 remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood flop- 
 ped with Powders, and a Plaiflerapplyed $ the Relations 
 and Acquaintance finging al! the while , whereby the cries 
 of the Infant are lefs heard. 
 
 Leaving AmJlerdam , I palled by a peculiar Burial- 
 place of the Jews, who are not permitted to interr their 
 dead within the Walls , by Overskerk , Earn burg, and in 
 fix or feven hours arrived at Utretcht , in a Boat drawn 
 with Horfies through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the 
 way of Travelling in Holland , Utretcht , and divers other 
 Provinces of the Lorn- Countries. 
 
 Utretcht is an ancient, large, handfome City, and chief 
 of the Province of the fame name, called formerly Anto- 
 nina, and afterwards Mltraje&um . Long famous for its 
 
 Epifcopal See founded by Dagobert King of France , who 
 endowed it richly with Lands and PofiefTions: Wtliebald , \ 
 
 oi Willebrode an Englifhman, was their firft Bifliop, who 
 converted thefe Countries unto Chriftianity ; and tte 
 following Biiliops grew fo powerful, that they were able 
 to bring many choufand men into the field, and to wage 
 great Wars againft the Counts of Holland: Their Suc- 
 ceffion alfo continued for above Nine hundred years* It 
 is now an llniverfity, founded by the States in the Year 
 169 6 -* f fiiall not trouble you with the Names of the Pro* 
 fefiTors 5 the Learned Mr, Ray, whom I had the honour 
 to meet in divers places abroad , having already caufed 
 to be printed the Series Leffionumof this and many other 
 ilniverfiues in the Low-Countries, Germany , and Italy , 
 in his Observations topographical, Moral, Fbyfiological , 
 
 fet 
 
C r 9 ) 
 
 fet forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high 
 Tower, or three Steeples one above another : From th e 
 higheft of which I had not only a good fight of the Town 
 it felf, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of 
 many others a! fo 3 Utretcbt being in a plain fiat Country, 
 and fo well feated,and encompaffed with fo populous a 
 Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence 
 to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The 
 Engli(h Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in 
 the middle of it, whofe Foundation could not be laid but 
 upon Balls- hides, is muchtaken notice of: ft was built 
 1099. and hath the PiSureof a Bull upon ic with this in- 
 fcription s 
 
 Accipe Pofteritas quod per tun fiecula narres r 
 
 T aurink ctti'ibus fundo fo lid at a columns eft. 
 
 There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which 
 containeth divers old Books and Manufcripts, A large 
 Bible in fix Volumes, painted and gilded after a very 
 ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long 
 fince in Germany, and given to this place by the Emper- 
 our Henry the Fourth, are worth the feeing, not fo much 
 for their neatnefs, as their Antiquity and odd fhape: As 
 alfo a Horn made out of a Tooth, faid to be given at the 
 fame time* There are alfo three Unicorns Horns, little 
 differing in length $ the longeft being five foot and an half : 
 I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp’d with 
 Silver, and made hollow to ferve for a Cup. Thefe were 
 of the Sea Unicom , or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth 
 of fome Sea- Animal much like it, taken in the Northern 
 Seas; of which I have feen many , bothinPublickRepo- 
 fitories, and in Private Hands. Two fuch as thefe, the 
 one Ten foot long, were prefented not many years fince 
 
 D 2 * to 
 
(20 ) 
 
 to the King of Denmark , being taken near to Nova Zem* 
 bU ; and I have feen fome full fifteen foot long ; fame 
 wreathed very thick, fome not fo much, and others al- 
 moft plain : Some largeft and thickeft at the End near the 
 head; others are largeft at fome diftance from the Head; 
 Some very fharp at the end or point , and others blunt. 
 My honoured Father SirT. B. hath a very fair piece of 
 one which was formerly among the Duke of CurUnds 
 Rarities, but after that he was taken Prifoner by Doug «* 
 tm in the wars between Sweden and Poland^ it came into 
 a Merchants hands, of whom my Father had it , he hath 
 alfb a piece of this fort of Unicorns Horn burnt black, out 
 of the Emperour of Ruffians Repnfitorie, given him by Dr. 
 Arthur Dee , who was Son to Dr. John Dee 5 and alfo 
 Ehyfician to the Emperour of Ruffia, when his Chambers 
 were burned, in which he preferved his Curioftties. I 
 have feen a walking Staff, a Scepter, a Scabbard for a 
 Sword, Boxes, and other C'uriofities made out of this 
 Horn, but was never fo fortunate as from experience to 
 confirm its Medical Efficacy againft Poyfons, contagious 
 Difeafes, or any other evident effeft ofir, although I 
 have known it given fieveral times 5 and in great quanti- 
 ty; But of thefe Unicorns Horns no man fure hath fo 
 great a Colleftion as the King of Denmark 5 and his Fa- 
 ther had fo many, that he was able to fpare about an hun- 
 dred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of U- 
 nhorm Horns. 
 
 I had the honour to fee divers Ferfonsof Note in this 
 City ; as D. Cyprunus ab Oojlergo , Dr. Regius , Voetius , 
 the only Member then left alive of the Synod of J9*r*,and 
 others; but miffed the fight of the Learned Anna Maria 
 SkurmtM) who was then gone outof Town, and was for- 
 ced to content my felf with beholding her Pifiure, well 
 drawnfcy her own hand, with this Infcripxion ©f hers un- 
 iter it o° Gernitu 
 
f 2 r) 
 
 CernitU hie filta nofires in Imagine vultm\ 
 
 Si negat ars formant gratia veltra dabit. 
 
 The Painters Hall is confiderable, wherein are many 
 good pieces to be feen of fevera] Matters ; Amongft which 
 there are good Heads by Van Colw and Trnrt ; Land* 
 skips by Soft-lever *, and good Drapery, efpecially in 
 feme Turkish Habits, by Van der Mere . 
 
 This Town is alfo beautified with a fair Piazza of 
 Market-place, divers long Streets, and a Fall-mail with 
 five rows of Trees on each fide. In the Church of St. 
 Katherine is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge* Though I 
 had feen France and ltaly> and the Noble Cities thereof, 
 which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much far- 
 pmed upon the firft fight of the United Provinces , efpe* 
 dally of HcHand, and the adjoyning places. He that 
 bathobferved the eafie accommodation for Travel there- 
 in, both by Land and Water , their excellent order and 
 regular courfe in all things; the number of Learned men; 
 the abundance of Varieties in all kinds $ the induftry , 
 frugality , and wealth of the people ; their numerous 
 good Towns; their extraordinary neatnefs in their Build- 
 ings and Houfes $ their proper Laws and adminiflration 
 of Juftice; and their incredible Number of Shipping 
 and Boats, will think it an omiflion to reft in the fight of 
 other Countries without a view of this* A Country of 
 little extent, and foon travelled over, Jbut fo replenifhed 
 with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages* 
 as not to be met with upon fo little a compafs of ground, 
 except perhaps in China . 
 
 From Utrecht, in two hours, l came to Frijwkk 9 and 
 paffed over the River Leek to Vimcn, where there ts lit- 
 tle- remarkable befidesthe Houfe and Gardens of Gount 
 
( 22 ) 
 
 Brederode , one of the Ancient Nobility of HolUnd } or, 
 according to common efteem, of the moft Noble Family 
 of all ; the Family of the Egmnds being formerly efteem- 
 ed the Richeft ; thcWajfenaer s the moft ancient, and the 
 Brederodes the Nobleft. The Mount in this Garden fer- 
 veth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bull • 
 rvark are divers finall brafs Guns planted. The Statua's 
 of the twelve Cafars, of AriJlotle y the Pyramids and Par- 
 titions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the reft of 
 its Ornaments, 
 
 From hence I pafled ft ill by Boat through the Land of 
 Arkel^ fome Fay, derived from Hercules , belonging for- 
 merly to the Lords of Gorchom and Jrkeland , till by $jMa- 
 ry , daughter to the laft Lord of Arkeland \ it fell to John 
 Lord of Egmond , and afterwards was fold to William the 
 fixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom , 
 a Town well feared, near three Rivers, the Ling , the 
 Wael, and the Maes. The Market-place is fair ; the Stadt - 
 huts is funk fomewhat on ooefide. The Governour hath 
 a good Houfe, and the Church a very high thick Steeple; 
 the Works are of Earth ; the Warer-gate is handfome, 
 and over it in Great Letters is this Infcription $ 
 
 Chit as in qua maximi Gives legibus parent^ & in 
 pacebeata, & bellotnvi&u, 1642. 
 
 The more remarkable becaufe it made good its Infcrip- 
 tion in the year 1672. when Louis the Fourteenth, King 
 of France, came down with fo powerful an Army into 
 the Low-Countries, that in that Summers Expedition he 
 took thirty walled Towns and Cities , this Water-gate 
 being the Limit to his Conquefts this way, beyond which 
 Siis Forges were not able to attempt any thing. 
 
 Leaving 
 
( 23 ) 
 
 Leaving G or cum, I pafied by Worcum , on the other 
 fide of the River, and then by the Caftle of Lovejleyn , 
 ftrongly feated and well fortified; and therefore hath 
 been often made ufe of to fecure Ferfons of Note. Sir 
 George A [cue of late years fuffered his Imprifonment here- 
 in, and formerly Barnevelt ; upon which occafion this 
 Caftle hath been much fpokenof, and hath given the name 
 to that wholeparty who fided with him, well knowaatpre- 
 fent by the name of the Lovejlein Faftion. Faffing on fur- 
 ther up the Mats, l 1 tkProye on the left hand, and Hue [den 
 on the right, and the next day morning arrived at th eBefch. 
 
 Hertogen Bofch , Sylva, Ducts , Bo [cum Duck, Eoijle - 
 due , Bolduc , takes its name from a Wood belonging 
 to the Dukes of Brabant : It is a ftrong pleafant City , 
 feated upon the River Dija or Deefe 9 which entreth the 
 Maes, about two Leagues below it ; one of the greateft 
 Cities in Brabant-, and for its ftrengtb, for which ’c is be- 
 holden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the Uni* 
 ted Provinces po fiefs not any one more confiderable , and 
 is a very good Frontier againft all Enemies on this fide 
 It is encompafied on all Tides with Fenns and Marfhy 
 Grounds. The Avenues to it are by narrow Caufies , 
 made turning and winding, to be commanded in all pla- 
 ces by one or other of the fix Sconces or Forts built at 
 fomediftance without the Town for its greater Security. 
 Befides which, the Hollanders having fome reafon to be 
 jealous of the Inhabitants, whofeafFeflions might incline 
 them towards the neighbouring Princes, of whofe Reli- 
 gion moft of them are, they have built a Citadel within 
 the Town, a Briel or pair of Spe&acles to look more ac- 
 curately into their Affairs. It is a handfom regular Fort 
 of five Baftions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long 1 
 the Faces of each Baftion 6 35 and the Flank or Neck 
 24, There is a handfome Houfe of Stone for the Gentry 
 
04 ) 
 
 at the point of each Baftion, and the middle of each Cur- 
 tain* every one of which coft Seven hundred Guldens. 
 Here is alfo a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, 
 faid tobe able to fting a Bullet almoft as far as Bommel. 
 The Piazza in this Town is Triangular,, 
 
 ThisGity was made an Episcopal See, 15 59. The Ca- 
 thedral is Dedicated to St. John. In the Quire are paint- 
 ed the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece ♦ 
 And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Infcription in 
 French , which contains the Hiftory of the firft Inftituti- 
 on 5 and Model of this Order 3 by the'moft High and 
 mighty Prince Fhilip the Good, Duke of Burgundy , Lc- 
 rain, and Brabant: Befides divers Statua’s and Pillars. 
 There arealfo feveral Monuments of the Bifhops of Bojche 
 .and others. 
 
 This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the 
 Forces of the Confederate Effaces, intheyear 162S. af- 
 ter a long and chargeable Siege ; in which the little 
 Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excel- 
 lent Service. 
 
 Diversof the Nuns were ftill alive in this Town, but 
 at Utretcht they were all dead. 
 
 From the Bojche we travelled through a plain Country, 
 fomewbat Sandy, to Breda upon the River Merc\: A 
 place very confiderable, pleafantly feated, and well- 
 fortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at 
 prefent : For they have taken away the Crown-works, 
 and left only the Half-moons and Horn* works* and Con- 
 ferves or Contregards about the Half-moons. There is 
 a large Ditch of Water round the Counterfcarp, and a 
 finall Ravelin between each Baftion, joyned to the Ram- 
 part within fide of the Ditch. There is alfo a double 
 Hayeor Quickfet hedge almoft quite round the Town,be* 
 fides Palifados.The P^^is very thick, and ftrengthned 
 
 with 
 
C if ) 
 
 wUh a row of litm- and feconded with soever row it 
 three or four yards diftance, round the Town} the bo* 
 dies of the Bafliws are funk down or hollowed away, 
 and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are 
 the like without the Town, and after all, a brelt-work 
 between the Town and the Bafims $ and Cavaliers upon 
 feveral places of the Rampart. 
 
 This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange , un- 
 to whom it hath defcended by the right of the houfe of 
 Najfaw , by the Marriage of Engelbert the feventh Earle 
 of that houfe , with §J Mary daughter and Heir of Philip 
 the laft Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken 
 by th $ Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country 
 Wars , and was afterwards Surprifed by the Dutch , by 
 a ftratagem performed by eighty men bid in a Boat 
 covered over with Turf , and fo let into the Caftle. In 
 the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again, as by la* 
 fcriptions and Chronograms are to be feea in divers 
 places, as that over the door of the Church, 
 
 aMbrefl fplmhce PigihaniU breDa eXpUgmts. 
 
 As alfo this, 
 
 PhlLlppUs hlfpmU reX gUkernante IJabeLLa Chard 
 EUgenla Infanta , obflDente fplwLa Maternls regl*. 
 bUs frit fir a Cm\Urmt\hUs he Da ViGtor pot It Ur, 
 
 Afterwards it was befieged and taken by Frederhk Hess- 
 drhk Prince of Orange , as an Infcription at the Weft end 
 of the Church fets it down. 
 
 Jnxilu film Dei , Mfpmh eesrftderaU Belgij, Ferdwm-- 
 da Anfirmo Hifiams infanta em ingentl exemtu fmftu 
 
 E fuseurrent § 
 
OO 
 
 j fuccurrente,* lulij 2 3 obfejjamad 19 Angufli eppugnatam. 
 Fredericus Henricus i'rinceps arallflUs breDaM eX- 
 pllgnatfeXta OCtobrls . 
 
 The Church is fair a.id hath many good Monuments, as 
 Reneffes Tombe ; a Monument for Sir T homas Alejbury 
 fetup by the Lord Chancellor Hide ; an old Tombe e- 
 refted 1349, for John Lord of Lech and Breda, ; the 
 Tombe of Grave EnglebergVan Aajjarr and his family 
 on the fide of the Wall ; the Here Van Horne and his 
 three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of 
 Grave Hendrick Van Naffaw y whofe Armour is fupporc- 
 ed by four Warriers upon their Knees ; he built theCa- 
 ftleof Breda , which is at prefent both ftrong and beau- 
 tiful ; 1 obferved the place where the Turfe-Boat came 
 in, and where the Prince cameover into the Town. The 
 Gallery, the Garden, theWaks, and Dials are worth 
 the feeing, the Town is handfomely built , populous, and 
 generally hath a great Garrifon in it. 
 
 Leaving Breda we footi came by Land to St . Gertruyden - 
 berg the iaft Town on the North of Brabant , where it 
 joy neth to the Province of Holland , a fmall place, but a 
 good Town for fifliing , lying upon a Hill near the great 
 broad Water called de Waert , made by the falling of 
 the Mats and many other Rivers into it. This Town is 
 fortified and Garrifoned. The Church and Steeple 
 have been Large and fair , and the ruines of the latter are 
 obfervable,in regardtbat this Steeple was (hot down by a 
 Stratagem of the Prince of Orange , while the Governour 
 and chief of the Town were upon it , to obferve a falfe a- 
 larm In the Prince’s Gamp , and fo loft themfelves and 
 the Town. We Paffed from hence over a large Water 
 which hath overflow’d a great part of the Country upon 
 #nefideofit, aolefs than feventy two Parifhes being 
 
 drowned 
 
( 2 7 ) 
 
 drowned at once , the Village of Ramfdun onefy efcapi ng, 
 and fo by an old Tower called the houfe of Murney , to 
 the Maiden To wn of Dort , or Dordrecht. 
 
 Dordracum , fo called by fome from Duriov Dureti 
 forum , at prefent ZVf , being feated in the Waves of 
 thofe great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal, is not 
 unaptly from its fituation compared to a Swans neft, it is 
 reckoned the firft and chief Town of South Holland, in 
 refpeft of its antiquity , as having ferved to fecure Odo~ 
 cer in his retreat almoft: eight hundred years fin ce , and 
 alfo inrefpeft of its Priviledges, in having the Mint here, 
 and being the Staple for Rhenifh wine and Englifli 
 Cloath. 
 
 In this Town are many fair honfes and pleafant Gar- 
 dens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312 
 fteps high 5 the top thereof being made of four large Dy~ 
 alls. There is alfo an Exchange or Place for Merchants 
 to meet. The English have two Churches , and the 
 French one. The Key or Head to the water fide is 
 handfome, and the Country about very pleafanr«we faw 
 the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was affembled 
 16 r i. a large fair room ; and took a collation in the fame 
 houfe , in a high turret overlooking the Town and Coun- 
 try: Our feats Moving round about the Table continu- 
 ally; fo as the diverfity of the profpeS made it more 
 delightful. The great VefTels round-bellied, which 
 trade between Coin and this City feemed ftrange 5 as alfo 
 the long Lujck or Liege- boats ; and the number of Peo- 
 ple that continually live in them. At my going a way 
 from hence I embarked in a VeflTel bound for the Ifland of 
 Walcheren , fayling by mod of the Iflands of Zealand and 
 in fight of divers good Towns, as Willemjtadt, Zirick - 
 ze, Tergoes \ observing in fome places where the Sea bad 
 overflow’d the Land, and in others where the Induftry of 
 
 E 2 the, 
 
<2i) 
 
 the Inhabitants ftill keep it out , by keeping up theit 
 banks , and thatching he Shoars of the Sea. We Land- 
 ed at ter- Vere, where there is a good Haven and Harbour 
 for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, to- 
 wards the Sea are round towers. The Piazza is long. 
 The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hun- 
 dred years, and the Marquifs of this Place did formerly 
 make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Go- 
 verned. The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middlehurg re- 
 prefenting the Ecclefiaftical jurifdiftion , and the Towns 
 of Middlehurg, Zirickzee , Ter- V ter , fluffing , Tolen, 
 Martins- di^e , Romerfival and Tcrgces , fupplying the 
 Third: over againft this place where a Town had former- 
 ly funk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be 
 feen. From hence to Middlehurg the way is Paved with 
 Brick ; as it is alfofrooi Town to Town in moft places of 
 Holland. 
 
 Middlehurg is the chief Town in the Ifland Walacbria, 
 feated almoftinthemiddleofit, being well built , large, 
 rich , and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the Eafi- 
 India trade : hath a large, broad Water within the Town, 
 and a {freight cut through the Land to carry VefieTs ourto 
 Sea , the whole is very w'ell Fortified , the Officers here 
 are chofen by Strangers or Foreigners , the Churches are 
 many and remarkable, the new Church is of aneight- 
 fquare figure with a Cupola, the Tower of the old great 
 Church very high, the Stadthuife with the old ftatuas, a* 
 bout it , the round Piazza, and many private buildings 
 are Confiderable , and the whole Country about it is 
 fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or 
 Planted with Madder, Pompons, ox Grain and Fruits. The 
 Zealanders are generally addifted to the intereft of the 
 Prince of Orange , and great Lovers of his Perfon. I 
 found them not a little delighted that the Prince had beea 
 
 witfe 
 
( 2 9 ) 
 
 with them fome days before, and was made Premier 
 Noble, or chief of the Srares of Zealand ; which was 
 chiefly brought about , as I was informed , by Penjicner 
 Hubert^ Le Sage, Duvelaer and Frit bergen , formerly no 
 great friends to the Prince, efpecially Vruhergen , who 
 was the mod earned of any to bring him in , in defpite 
 to the Hollanders , for Genera! Worts his fake , who be- 
 ing fee over the Zealand forces by thofe of Jmjlerdam , 
 lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonekac 
 the head of his Regiment. I w as entertained at Middle - 
 burg very courteoufly by Mo Hill the Minifter, who alfo 
 fent his Kinfman with me to Fluffing. Flijfinga or Fluf- 
 fing, hath S r one-WaIs towards the Sea, and Mudworks 
 towards the Land ; a very good Port , and a ftrong 
 Town; the waves of the Sea wafting its walls-, it was 
 oneof the firft Towns which the Low Country men took 
 from the Spaniards , in the year i $72 , and was made 
 Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins 
 and the Briel [ 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney be- 
 ing the firft Governour of it , and furrendred by King 
 James to the United ftates* 16 r6* The Sea ftoar here a* 
 bouts is not only faced with ruftes, fliggsand reeds 
 flaked down as high as the Tide ufually arifeth, but it is 
 alfo ftrongly bound over withOfiers and hurdles and 
 great Pofts driven in t© break the force of the Water, and 
 fecure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens 
 mouth. The Town-houfe is handfomely built , fhnding 
 in the Piazza , having three rowes of Pillars in the Front 
 one above another ; the Lower Dortch , the fecond l<b 
 nkk , and the higbeft Corinthian ; and on the top there 
 is a Gallery or Balcony to Difcover ftips at Sea. This 
 is the third Port for the Ea fr-lndi* trade ; Amfterdam and 
 Rotterdam being the firft and fecond : here lay many 
 great ftips in the middle of the Town, and eonfiderable 
 
 mm 
 
( 3 ° ) 
 
 men of War ] as the St. Patrick , and the Admiral of 
 Zealand : we faw them alfo building of divers fliips, and 
 when the Prince was here, they Lanched one to diver- 
 tife him , to which he gave the name of William Frederick , 
 they alfo prefented him with a Golden Bottle $ that be- 
 ing the Arms of the Town : the Prince Landed at 
 tnuyden and went from thence to Tergoes , and thence to 
 Breda 3 they reported his entertainment in IValcheren a» 
 mounted to fifty thoufand Gu'dens. The Women in this 
 Jfland wear moftof them red Gloth and ftraw-Hats , if 
 a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door, 
 ifaBoy , a littieone , ifa Woman, the draw lies on the 
 left fide of the Door : when any Woman is brought to bed; 
 they fallen a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the 
 Door ; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely 
 pleated, and in fuch manner , as todiftinguifh of what 
 fex the young Child is. 
 
 Returning to Middlebttrg by Land I obferved there 
 was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat 
 and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a bread- 
 worke or a hedge, and embarked at Middleburg again, 
 and pa{Ted down the River by the fort Rammakins , and 
 fo for the Schelde ^ Sayling up that noble River till we 
 had patted the Fort Frederick lienrick and came to Lille; 
 where we ftayd till the Vetted was fearched. Over a* 
 gainft Lille 9 lyeth another Fortification, called Lifgens 
 %eek ; the Fort de la croix is the lad that belongeth to the 
 Hellanders , and lieth on the Norih fide of the River;the 
 Banks are cut nigh to it , and the Country drowned for 
 its greater fecurity. The Spanijb Forts hereabouts to 
 defend the Frontiers, are the Philip ji\\t Pearl, and the 
 Maria . 
 
 The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by C<efar is ft 
 gallant River^affording plenty of fifh , and convenience 
 
 for 
 
(30 
 
 for Navigation and pafTageunto feveral noted places: It 
 arifeth in the Country of Vermandois, palling to Cambrap 
 Valencienne , fo to 'tour nay or Vornick , Qudenard , 
 Gaunt , Rupelmond and Jntwerp 0 and pmrfuing its 
 courfe is afterwards divided into two dreams , w hereof 
 the Southern is called the Hont^he other runs by Bergen 
 apZome , and fo into the Sea between thelfles of Zea- 
 land. 
 
 The next day morning we w>ent on our Voyage ftillup 
 the Scaldis or Schelde , and arrived at dntvperp „ Where 
 I had the good fortune to fee Mr. Ilartop^ one very wed 
 known in all thofe parts and of high efteem for hisperfo* 
 nal ftrength and valour. A Gentleman alfofo courteous 
 chat he makes it his bufinefs to oblige Grangers; he fiiew'd 
 me many curiofities in this City, carrying me with him in 
 his Coach. 
 
 The Walls of Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick 
 and freeftone, having divrs rowsof Trees upon them* 
 broad walks 3 and conveniences for the Caches, to 
 make their tour upon. The Bajlions are not fo 
 large as generally they build now a dayes, yet after the 
 modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep 5 the 
 Country about it, all Gardens^ The Chtadel is a regu- 
 
 lar fortification of five Bajlions , wherein liesalwayesa 
 Garrifon of Spanijb Soldiers: upon every curtain there 
 are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below* 
 a row ofbuilding or lodgings for the Soldiers ^ the ears 
 of the Bafiions are cut down, and Cafamates made, and 
 Palifados fet round upon the Efplanade; the Walls are 
 lined yvith excellent Brick andftone, nor is there any 
 where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Ba* 
 fitons that is finished: it commands the City, the Rk- 
 ver and the Country : befides this Cittadtl there is ana® 
 ther Fort within the Town near the Schcld> to command 
 
 the ■ 
 
Cp) 
 
 the River , having eight Guns in it » called St, Lamm 
 
 Fort. 
 
 The Exchange is handfome,fupported by 36 Pillars e» 
 very one of a different carving, four ftreecs lead unto it, 
 fo that Handing in the middle we fee through every one 
 of them. TheMeer or Largeft ftreet isconfiderable for the 
 water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches 
 upon it every evening to make their tour through the 
 ftreets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one 
 end ofit ftands a large Brafs Crucifix upon a Pedeftall of 
 Marble.The JefuitesChurch goeth far beyond any of that 
 bignefs that 1 have feen out of Italy. The Front is noble, 
 wuh the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top, A great 
 part of theinfideof the Roof was painted by Rubens, 
 and forae of it by Van Dyke : there be many Excellent 
 peeces of flowers done by Segers a lefuite \ the Carving 
 and gilding of all the works is exquifice; The Library 
 of the Colledge is great,& the Books difpofed handfome- 
 ly into four Chambers | the Founder hereof was God- 
 fridus Houtappel, wbofe Monument, together with his 
 Wife and Children are worth the feeing, in a Chappel on 
 the South fide of this Church. In the Church of the 
 Carmelites is a large Silver Status of our Lady , and 
 models of Cityes in ftone. Onfar Lieven Vrorvcn Kerch , 
 or the Church of our hleffed Lady is the greatefl in the 
 City 1 and the Steeple one of the feireft in the World, 
 five hundred foot high ? one of their feet is eleven of our 
 inches 1 fo as it is 459 of our feet, Jn this Church there 
 
 is much Carving , and a great number of PiSures highly 
 efteemed , among which one piece is much taken notice 
 of, drawn by jgji wint'tn , at firft a Smith , who made the 
 neat Iron work of the Well before the Weft door § and 
 afterwards to obtain bis Miftrefs, he proved a famous 
 Painter ; bis head is fee up in Stone at the entrance of 
 
 the 
 
( 33 ) 
 
 the Church , with an infcription and this verle. 
 
 Conmb'ulu mor de Mnlcibre fecit Apeilem. 
 
 
 I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael , pleafantly 
 fea ted upon the Scheldt where among other curiofities, 
 Ifawaglafs, which reprefented the Pi&ures of our S*~ 
 viour and the Virgin Mary , colle&ed from the Putting 
 together of divers other heads : One was reprefented 
 from a Pidlure wherein were thirteen faces , and another 
 from one of twelve- over the blefTed Virgin was this In- 
 fcription. 
 
 Diva nitet variis exprejfa Maria Figuris . 
 
 The Countefs ofFr^/tf *Tombe,who was drowned, and 
 her Statu a , as alfo the Monument of Qrtelius, are here 
 ILewn. Macarius Stmoneus was then Abbot, the Monks 
 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Wal- 
 hurgis an English Saint , who contributed much towards 
 the converfion of thefe Countries. 
 
 TheTown-houfe is fair, the Houfe built for the Eaft- 
 country Merchants is very (lately and large , but runneth 
 now to mine, in this I faw among other curiofities, divers 
 ftrange Mufical inftruments, which at prefent are not 
 underftood , or at leaft not made ufe of; The Heffen 
 houfe hath been alfo formerly confiderable. The water 
 which they make ufe of in Brewing, is brought by an 
 Aquedudt from Her entail about thirty miles diftant from 
 hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Chan- 
 nel , peculiarly walled in by it felf where it pafTech the 
 Ditch 3 in this City are many good Colleftions ofPift- 
 ures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Mini- 
 ature or Limning b yGon[ol> one fine piece , which ! 
 
 F faw 
 
( 34 ) 
 
 faw was peculiarly remarkable s it being the work of 
 35 feveral Matters. 
 
 From jdntwerp , I paffed to Brujfels by water, chang- 
 ing Boats five times , and going through divers locks, by 
 reafon that the Country is fa much higher about Brufiels, 
 and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerf. 
 At Fontaine aledgueandhalf from Bruffeis, three Rivers 
 crofs one another: one of them being carried over a 
 bridg. The Piazza of Brujfels is fair . and oblong in fi- 
 gure j upon one of the longeft fides ftands the Town- 
 houfe, and over again fi it the Kings-houfe, whereupon 
 a Scaffold hanged wiih Velvet, Count, Fgmoni and 
 Horne were beheaded , the whole Piazza being hanged 
 with BkckCloth.Upon the top of theTown-houfe, (lands 
 St Michael the Patron of the City in Brafs, Count Marfins 
 houfe formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange $ hath 
 a fair Court, and overlooks a good pare of the City , but 
 a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunderbolc 
 or Stone which they affirm to have effeOed it, is bigger 
 than two Mens heads , and hangs up upon the door at the 
 ^entrance. The lejuites Church is hand Pome , and in it 
 the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded' a- the top. 
 The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar , and near unto 
 the Church is the Statua ofa piffingboy , which isacon- 
 tinual Conduit. The Armory was well furnifhed, as we 
 were informed, before the Governours of the low Coun- 
 tries fold the Arms, and Cafjel Roderigo theGovernour 
 left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charts 
 the fifth, of Duke Albert, of the Prince of Parma , £>- 
 nejius , and of the Duke £ Alva and of the Duke Alberts 
 horfe who being (hot Paved his Matter , and died the fame 
 day twelve month ; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, 
 one with two Piftols ; The Armour of Cardinal Infan- 
 te 1 and of an Indian King > A Polijb musket which carri 
 

 C 35 ) 
 
 ! eth fix hundred paces 5 Charles the Fifth's Sword for the 
 I making the Knights of the Golden Fleece , and Henry the 
 | Fourth's Sword fent to declare war , Good Bucklers for 
 Defence, and fome well wrought; efpecially one with 
 the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants ; and Banners ta- 
 j ken with Francis King of France , at the Battel of Pa- 
 via. 
 
 Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons floating the 
 three Pigeons near the Tower of David, [$ the fhot which 
 Infanta Ifabella nude, when with an Arrow fhe killed a 
 
 I Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Ar* 
 row is fee upon the top of a Tower in the Court, which 
 is large ; and if the New Buildings and Defign were con- 
 tinued, it would be very handfouie. Before the Court 
 (land five brafs Statues. The Park is pleafant , with 
 Trees fet in order, and adorned with Grotto’s, Foun- 
 tains, and Water-works, which come very near the Ita- 
 lian ; one piece fomewhat imitating Frafcati , in which 
 | all Mufical Infirumcnts are imitated, and a perpetual mo* 
 non attempted ; and on the Front of the Buildings (land 
 the Cafars head^. But the Eccho is mofl remarkable ; 
 which may perfefily be difiinguifhed to ten or twelve 
 Replies. The greateft Church is that of St. Gudula in 
 j which is her Statua, the Devil flriving to blow out the 
 Light of her Lanthorn. Two Chappels therein are re- 
 markable ; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the 
 outfide: the other towards the North, hath been vifited 
 by five Kings; in which is the Hofi: which bled being 
 ftabbedby the Jews. In the Dominican Church is the 
 Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutchefs, in Co- 
 rinthian brafs. But for a New Church that of the Be- 
 gennes y or Pious Maids, is very confiderable ; there be» 
 Eight hundred of them in this City, whohavea par- 
 ar place allotted to them, where they have built this 
 
 F 2 
 
 milk 
 
(3 6 ) 
 
 milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place 
 at that time, three hundred Houfes being fhut up, and a 
 Garland placed on the doors , in the middle of which 
 
 t _ 
 
 was written IHS. I faw the Englijb Nunnery , and o- 
 ther confiderable Buildings. And after 1 had refrefhed 
 my felf at the Fifii-Tavern, which is worth the feeing, 
 efpecially for two Rooms in it , furniflied from top to 
 bottom with very good Piflures , I returned to Jnt* 
 werp. 
 
 QUoh* 4. I travelled through an open Country , and 
 jodged at Molin brujle * The Spamjh Souldiers met us 
 upon the Road this day, feme of them well mounted and 
 armed, and begged of us, and were well fatisfied with a 
 final! Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country 
 of Liege , and pafled great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in 
 the morning, arrived at Maefireicbt. 
 
 Trajeffumad Mofam , or Maejlreicbt>\s a ftrongTown, 
 feated upon the Maes, four Leagues below Liege. The 
 Gut-works are very confiderable 3 the Wall is old. To- 
 wards the South- ea-ft lyeth a Hill , which ariferh gently , 
 and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one 
 of the noblefl: Quarries of Stone in the World. To fe- 
 curethe Town from the disadvantage it might receive 
 from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it, 
 but it hath been long fince flighted ; and they have made 
 out an Horn- work within Musket- fhot of it, and the Ba- 
 il ion anfwering to it is made very high, to cover the 
 Town. On the other fide of the River ftandeth Wicke , 
 very well fortified alfo, and rather ilronger than Mae- 
 ftreiebt, into which they might retire if the Town fhoulcf 
 be taken by Storm , it being united to Maejireicfo by a 
 handfome Bridge over the Maes f confifting of Nine Ar- 
 ches. All about WkJce the Country is flat : there are 
 
 many 
 
( 37 ) 
 
 many Inhabitants in it, and a handfome Glafs hotsfe. 
 
 The private Houfes of Maejlreieht are generally cove- 
 red with a black Slat, or Ardoife, other wife not very 
 beautiful. The Town houfe is fair,, feared in one of the 
 Piazzas, built of white Stone *, it hath Nine large 
 Windowes in a row On each fide, and within is very 
 well painted by Lbeodorus van der Sehuer , who was 
 Painter to the Queen of Sweden. In another j Piaz- 
 za is a Fountain , rows of Trees , and the great 
 Church. This Town was befieged and taken from the 
 King of Spain by the Confederate States , in the year 
 1632- 
 
 October the Seventh I dined at Gallop , a ftnall place * 
 and came that night to Jken , Jix la Chapelle , or jfqutfi 
 grane , an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, 
 and much frequented by reafon of its hot Baths, of 
 which I fhall fpeak more particularly in my Journey 
 from Colen to London . Leaving Aken 1 travelled to- 
 wards Juliets or Gulie ^ , but it being late before we 
 arrived , the Gates were flhut up, fo as we went on- 
 ly under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. 
 Near unto Gulick runneth a fiiallow fwift River, 
 called the Roer. At the Mouth of it, where it fal~ 
 leth into the Maes , is feated a confiderable Town, 
 called Roermonde , through which I pafTed in the year 
 1673, when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Jofiph Wtl - 
 Ham fin were fent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne , in our 
 Journey from Antwerp to that City. We then paf- 
 fed the Country of Brabant \ by the way of Ikornhaut ~ 
 Weert , Roermonde , and the next Night palling by Erke* 
 lens , lodged at Caftro , or Cafter, in Gulickland, , where 
 there are ftill the remains of an old Caftle, formerly 
 built for the Defence of that part of the Country* 
 Roermonde is feated upon a rifing Hill , near the River 
 
( 38 ) 
 
 Reer, hath a Colledge of Jefuits in it, a bandforoe f *#. 
 azza , and an old Abby with divers Monuments very- 
 ancient , founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland. From 
 this Town their Excellencies w.ere faluted with the 
 Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The 
 Spaniards in moft places ft riving to exprefs the higheft 
 of their refpefts. 
 
 From Gulick I travelled to Cologne , where I arrived 
 October the i o th, r 668. 
 
 
 A 
 
COLE ‘N 
 
 T O 
 
 VI EN 
 
 Oltfii Coin, or Colonic Agrippina , was 
 anciently the Capital City of the Ubii, 
 a people who were at firft poflelTed of 
 the Countries now called Berg and 
 March , but being over run by the Ger* 
 mans next to them, Jgrippa , Lieutenant 
 o( Gallia, received them into protefii- 
 on, and placed them upon this fide of the Roman fhoar 
 of the Rhine> where they built this place, and called it 
 Oppidum Ubiorum , and the Romans fearing themfelves 
 here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of A- 
 grippina , daughter to Germanicns , and wife to Claudius , 
 whofe Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of 
 Colma Agrippina* It isat prefent one of the largeft, if 
 
 not 
 
C 4® ) 
 
 not the greateft, of any City in Germany f fecured to- 
 wards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches , 
 and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The Rhine 
 renders it delightful upon one fide, and divers rows of 
 Trees enclofe the Town towards the Land. They have 
 forne Out-works, as Half-moons and Ravelins* but their 
 bed fecurity is in the great number of men which they are 
 able to raife within tbemfelves. Many of theStreecsare 
 broad, and paved \yith broad ftones. 
 
 It received the Chriftian Faith very early, and Ma- 
 ternus was their Bifhop above 1350 years fince , who 
 fubfcribed 3 amongft others, to the Council of Arles. They 
 have a great number of Churches, and well endowed, 
 which take up a great part of the Town 5 The Prebends 
 2nd Canons Houfes having in many places Vineyards, and 
 large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of 
 the Town, the Church of Sr* Kunibald is confiderable. 
 The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built, 
 with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform. 
 The jefuites Church is well built and ftored with rich 
 Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the 
 Church of Sr. Gereon , a Saint of great name here, marty- 
 red about Golen in the time of Maximianus , are about a 
 thoufand Saints heads, and on each fide of the Altar a 
 largeStatua, whereof oneisof a Moor$ and under the 
 Quire another Church. The Convent of the Carmelites 
 is alfo confiderable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was 
 held with good accommodation in it , though with no 
 fuccefs, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Urfula 
 is her Tonib, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven 
 thoufand Virgins , martyred by the Huns. Upon the 
 Monument of Sc .Ursula is this Infcription ; 
 
 Sepulcrum Santl* Ur fuU indict* Golumb* detetfum* 
 
 Upon 
 
C 4* ) 
 
 Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Croffes and 
 Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are a!fo 
 kept in thisChurch. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. 
 Peter, and is very large, but not finished. The Body 
 of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it* The 
 Quire is bandfomeand very high : behind it are believed 
 to be the Tombs of the three Wife men which came from 
 the Eaft to worfhip our Saviour, or the Kings of Arabia, 
 of whom it was prophefied that they fliofrld bring Gifts, 
 commonly called the three Kings of Co ten i Melchior , 
 who offered Gold , Gajpar Frankincenfe, and Balt ha far 
 Myrrhe. Their Bodies, as the account goech, were firft 
 removed to Conjlantinople by Helena the Mother of Cox* 
 jlantine the Great; then to Milan by Euftorfius Bifhop 
 thereof $ and they have now refted at Colen for above five 
 hundred years, being rranflated from Milan hither by 
 Rainoldus Bifiiop of Golen , in the year 1 164. There are 
 alfo. divers other Monuments of Bifhops, and Noble 
 Perfons in Brafs and Stone, and one in the fliape of a 
 Caftle with fix Towers. The Canons of t hisChurch are 
 all Noblemen j among whom the Duke of Nexvhurg , who 
 ordinarily refides at Duffeldorff, about twenty English 
 miles below this City, upon the Rhine , hath two Sons. 
 In a Church dedicated to all the Apoftles, they fhew a 
 Tomb, which being opened by Thieves, intending to 
 plunder it, the woman buried in it arofe up and went 
 home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In 
 one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon 
 another, which feems to be ancient, now made a Prifon. 
 Upon another Ruine alfo in the Streets lies a Tombemade 
 out of one Stone ; of which fort of Tombs there are ma® 
 ny in this City and other places ; but the greateft number 
 of them I ever faw was at Arles in Provence . 
 
 The Senate Houfeis Noble, having a fair Tower upon 
 
 O it. 
 
( 42 ) 
 
 it, from whence there is a good profpeft over the City. 
 Upon the Front of the Senate Houfe is a Man in Bajfo re - 
 lievQj fighting with a Lyon, who, as it was related to 
 me, was formerly one of theConfuls, who having had a 
 conteft with fome Clergy-men about the Government of 
 the City, on a fuddain they caufed a Lyon to be let in up- 
 on him ; upon which occafion he behaved himfelf fo well* 
 as he delivered himfelf, and flew the Lyon* 
 
 The Eleftor or Archbifhopof Golen hath two Palaces 
 in the City,but by agreement between him and the Town* 
 he is not to flay here above three days together. Only this 
 prefent Archbifliop, upon the coming down of the Im- 
 perial Forces, and his lofs of Bonna, rook Sanftuary 
 here in the Convent of Sr, Pantaleon , where he continued 
 a great while. 
 
 The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Ho- 
 mage to the Ele&or , much after this Form : We free Ci- 
 tizens of Golen promije to the Archbifbop 5 to be faithful and 
 favourable unto him as long as he preferves us in Right and 
 Honour , and in our ancient Priviledges , Us, our Wives , 
 our Children, and our City of Colen. Moft of the City 
 are of the Roman Church , and the whole Town fo full of 
 Convenes, Churches, Church-men and Reliques, that it 
 is not undefervedly ftyled the Rome of Germany . The 
 Lutherans have alfo a Church within the Walls , and the 
 Calvinijls at Mulheim , half a League down the Stream on 
 the other fide of the Rhine . 
 
 Over againft Colen lieth Dutz , a fmall Village, inhabi- 
 ted chiefly by Jews. The VefTels which come out of the 
 Lovo-Countries hither are long, round bellied, and of great 
 burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay 
 or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which 
 they may be drawn, and efcape the Injuries they would 
 otherwifefufferbv the Ice in Winter* 
 
 Befidef 
 
( 43 ) 
 
 Befides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citi- 
 zens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffick 
 and Correfpondence with divers Countries, efpecialiy 
 by the convenience of the Rhine* They fpeak not the 
 beft High-dutch 5 but Latin and French are underload 
 by many : Divers Hefts in Inns fpeak Latin , and the Ser- 
 vants French ; which proves a good help unto Travellers 
 It was made an llniverfity about the year rgS8, Befides 
 the General Hofpitalsforyourjgand old pe-rfons, there are 
 two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have 
 a Fharmaccpxa Colonienjis , or a Difpenfatory proper to the 
 place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines. 
 
 1 wasacquainted with one of the beft, Mr, Elburg ^ a 
 knowing and obliging perfon, who was his Majefties A- 
 pothecary while he refided at Colen 5 and whom my 
 honoured Friend Sir Alexander Frafer , his Majefties chief 
 Phyfician, made ufe of, who lived in great reputation in 
 this City, 
 
 Two hundred years fince sALneas Sylvius left an high 
 expreffion concerning this place, Colonid c/u<z de conjuge 
 Claud ii 024/re Neronis , Agrippina diffa eft , & triam 
 Magorum ojjibusilluftrata , nihil magnificent i us, nihil orna - 
 tins 5 tot A Europe reperm : which though, if ftri&ly 
 conftrued, will hardly be admitted by any who hath be- 
 held Faris, Nafles i Venice , &c.yet doth it declare the no- 
 blcnefsof this City, even in former times. 
 
 We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, {be- 
 ing drawn up the Stream with Horfes, they being made 
 faft by a very long Rope to the Maft; we lodged in a 
 final! Village, having had a good profpeft of Colen all 
 this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place Ju- 
 lius Cafar made his Bridge over the Rhine . The next 
 day we came to Bon , the Seat of the prefent Archbifhop 
 andEleftorof Colon, Maximilianus Henricus , Duke of 
 
 G 2 Bwtria, 
 
£ 44 ) 
 
 Bavaria , Bifihop of Eildtjheim and Liege, and Arch- 
 Cbancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place 
 was formerly called Bonna, or Cajlra Bonnenji^ the win- 
 tering place, in the time of Tacitus, of the fixth Legion. 
 It was not long fince very well fortified by the order of 
 the prefent Archbifhop, and the direfiion of Colonel Bi - 
 fer , a blind man, having Cataracts in both his eyes. The 
 Archbifbops Palace is very Noble , and there is a Cham- 
 ber feated a good way into the Rhine, to which they pafs 
 thorow a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of 
 thehigheft of the feven Hills by the Rhine , which are 
 feen at a great diftance; and upon divers of them (land 
 old ruined Caftles. On the 1 5 th we paffed by a pleafant 
 Ifland with a Convent in it: at Remagen is alfo a Con- 
 vent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. Jnthe 
 Evening we lodged near to a Caftle, ruined four years 
 before by the Elefiorsof Triers and Colen, it belonging at 
 that time co the Dukeof Lorrain. On (he 1 6th early in 
 the Morning we came to Andernach, where the plague 
 was very much at that time, and they kept a great many 
 of their fick in Boats upon the Rhine . 
 
 jindernach, of old Antcnacum , was one of the Roman 
 FoifretTes, Upon this River, fome think that G*/*g#/* 
 was born, and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts* 
 Near unto this place are alfo Mineral Springs , well fre- 
 quented, and much made ufe of.The Town is encompafled 
 with an old Wall ; and the Gates were fhut up by reafon 
 of the Plague Notwithftandiog, there being divers Fri- 
 ers in our company, feveral of the Towns men Pent out 
 difhes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon 
 Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day 
 the pafTage by water Teeming tedious to us^Mic.MtiJJlroth, 
 a worthy German Gentleman, with whom I travelled as 
 fe as Sf ire, was willing we fliould hire a Coach toge- 
 
( 45 ) 
 
 ther, which we did, and invited the Friers with whom 
 we had breakfafted, to go along with us in it to Coblentz » 
 We paffed through a very pieafant Country, between 
 rows of Walnut-trees , in fight of two of the Eleflor of 
 Tr/wHoufeSjand near to a Houfe belonging to the Count 
 de Wert. 
 
 We paded the MofeUa overa handfome Stone-bridge of 
 thirteen Arches, built by Archbifhop or Baldui • 
 
 n»s , in the year 1344, and coming into the Town, we 
 went to the Dominican Convent , which is pleafantly 
 feated near the Banks of the River MofeUa ; but the Pri- 
 or of the Convent, whom we had brought with us , was 
 fo obliging, that he would not part with us that night ; 
 and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodg- 
 ings: He invited alfo fame of the Convent to bear us 
 company 5 and after a handfome Supper, with plenty of 
 excellent Mofelle wine, we went to bed between two 
 Feather-beds* 
 
 Coblentz , or Confiuentia , is a Town of a Triangular 
 Figure, feated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the 
 Rhine and the MofeUa, which make two fides thereof, 
 and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to 
 the other ; which is now well fortified after the mod re- 
 gular Modern way. The Wall within thefe Works had 
 many old high Towers *, and formerly there was another 
 ftill nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and confequent- 
 ly containing a lefs fpace of ground. This Town is un- 
 der the Ele&or and Archbifhop of Triers, Carolus Cajpar r 
 of the Noble Family of the Leyen , Arch-Chancellour 
 for the Empire in Gallia Belgica y and the Kingdom of 
 j(rles % It was given to the Church of Triers when Me - 
 doaldus was Archbifhop above a thoufand years fince , in 
 the time of King Dagobert . The Situation is pieafant 
 and convenient, and Ueth over againft the Caftle of Her- 
 
(♦< ) 
 
 manjlein, or Ethrenbreitjlein, that is \ the Stone of f at 
 extended Honour ; at the foot of which Caflle, upon the 
 Choarof the Rhine, under a great Rock , frauds a very 
 Noble Palace of theEleftors, two large Wings and the 
 Fronc with five Pavilions (landing towards the River,and 
 from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Cob - 
 lentz : when any great Veil'd pafieth by, they let flip 
 three Boats, whereby the paffage lieth open, and make 
 them fafi again afterwards. In the German wars the Spa- 
 niards thruft in a Garrifoninto this Town ; which was af- 
 terwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of 
 Sweden ; and the ftrongCafileof EthrenbreitJleinbeiDg 
 put into the hands of the French, the Emperours For- 
 ces feized upon the Archbifhop of triers , who then 
 was Philippus Chrifiophorm y and carried him away to 
 Vienna* 
 
 In places where th eRhine runneth through a low Coun- 
 try and a fat Soy 1, it wafheth away the Banks : tofecure 
 which, in divers places they have made great Works of 
 Wood 3 and alfo to fecure Veffels from the danger of the 
 Ice. And I remember, ridingnear the Banks of the Ri- 
 ver Loire in France, Iobferved them in fome places to 
 be handfomly defended for a long way together with Free- 
 Hone. 
 
 Near unto Goblentz, upon a Hill, is a Convent of Car- 
 Jbufians. October the i -jtb we went up the Rhine to Bop- 
 part, a walled Town, upon the weftern bank, where Van 
 trump was ^ that time : It is a very old Town, one of 
 the Roman Fortreffes againft the Germans , called anci- 
 ently Bodobriga $ fome would have it called Bopport from 
 Beauport , Fair-haven , or Bonport, a good convenient 
 place for Veflels to retire into, or to ride in. 
 
 On the 1 %th vve dined at Sc. Guer , a pleafant Town 
 belonging to the Landtgravc of Hejfe, who hath a Caftle 
 
 here* 
 
( 47 ) 
 
 here. Coming on flioar we met with an odd cuirome v 
 for upon the Wall fide there is fanned a Collar of Brafs 
 ac prefenc, but was formerly of Lead, and given by 
 Charles the Fifth; into this moft Strangers that come put 
 their Necks, at which time they ask them, Whether they 
 will be (prinkled with water, or drink wine? and if they 
 choofe the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to 
 the Company. The Queen of Sweden puffing by this 
 place, gave a great Silver Gup, out of which they now 
 drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this nights tWefel, 
 a Town fituated between a high Hill aid the River, 
 belonging to the Archbifliop of Triers. Here in the 
 Market-place they ftew us the print of St, Huberts Hor- 
 fes foot in a Free-ftone. 
 
 On the 1 9 th we came to Baccharach , or ad Bacchi arae ? 
 belonging to the Eleftor Palatine^ place famous fcr Ex- 
 cellent Wines. W r e pafifed by an old Caftle feated upon 
 a Rock in the middle of th zRhine, being of an irregular 
 figure, called Pfalts 5 where formerly the Prince Pah*- 
 tines of the Rhine were born, the PrincefTes being fent 
 hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to 
 Dreickfhaufen j the next day we went by a dangerous Paf- 
 fage, there being many Rocks under water, which caufe 
 the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little a« 
 bove this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the 
 Rhine , called the Mcufe-tower, built by Hatto Archbi- 
 fhopof Mentz, in the year 900. who, as the Story goetb, 
 in a time of great Scarcity,pretending to relieve the poor 
 who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn, 
 where he burnt them all, faying, They were like the Rats 
 and sJtllce which would devour the Corn. After which he 
 was fo perfecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them 
 hecaufed this Tower to be built in the middle of the 
 Rhine, which did not avail him, for they followed him 
 
 thither 
 
( 48 ) 
 
 thither alfo, and at laft devoured him. A little above 
 this lieth Bing upon the Wefternihoar* a confiderable 
 Town, belonging to the Eleftor of Mentzi heie our 
 Boat ftayed to pay Cuftome, as it had done alfo at Eonna, 
 Liutz, Hammerfiein, yindernach, Coblent z 9 Lodejheim, 
 Bopport, St, Gower, Cub } and Baccbarach. For the trade 
 of the being great, Princes and Lords, who have 
 Towns upon it, make ufe of that advantage, which, though 
 itabateth the gains of the Merchant, brings confiderable 
 profit to themfclves. 
 
 Bing, or Binginm, .was an old Roman Fortrefs upon 
 the Rhine, where the River Navusov JVarv entreth into 
 it ; over which latter there is a handfome Stone-bridge : 
 In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrains Army 
 fickand wounded, who three weeks before had main- 
 tained a fight againft the Forces of the Elettor JPalatine , 
 near this place. From Bing we continued our Journey 
 to Mentz : at Rudejbeim in Rhinegaw , a place noted for 
 good Wine, they fhewed us a Boy, whofehair was thick 
 and woolly, like to the African Moors, but of a fine 
 white colour, which being fomewhat an odd fight 5 I took 
 away fome of his hair with me. 
 
 ^Mcntz, Moguntia , Moguntiacum, and by the French 
 Mayence , is feated over againft the Confluence of the Ri- 
 ver Main , with the Rhine, or rather a little below ir$ in 
 a fertile Country, abounding in all Provifions and good 
 Wine; it lieth at length, and is moft extended towards 
 the River 3 and that part excelleth the other towards the 
 Land, which is not fo populous or well-built; It is a 
 ftrong place, and well guarded ; it hath many Churches 
 and Monafteries, and fome fair Buildings, efpeciaJly thofe 
 of publick concern, as the Palace of theEledtor, and o- 
 thers : But the narrownefs of the Streets, and many old 
 Houfes, take away much from the beauty of the City, 
 
It is an Univerfity, begun about the year 1486. or as 6* 
 thers will have it 146 1. This place alfo challenged the 
 Invention of Printing, oratleaft the firft promotion or 
 perfeftion thereof : And the Territory about it is famous 
 for the deftru&ion of the Roman Legions under Varus, by 
 the Germans, Gttftaphtts Adolphus , King of Sweden, was 
 wonderfully pleafed upon the taking of thisCity, i6^r. 
 entring into it in Srate upon the r 4 th of December, it be- 
 ing his Birth-day, which began the 38 th year of his life, 
 and kept his Court and Ghrifimas here ; where at one 
 time there were with him fix chief Princes of the Empire, 
 twelve AmbafTadours of Kings ,' States , Elefiors , and 
 Princes 5 befides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men 
 of his own Army. At the taking of the Town,they found 
 great ftore of Ordnance and Powder ; and the City re- 
 deemed it felf from Pillage by giving the King a Ranfome 
 of Eighty thoufand Dollars ; and the Clergy and Jews 
 gave Two and twenty thoufand more , of which the Jews 
 paid Eighteen thoufand 5 Archbifliop Wambold faving 
 himfelf upon the Rhine, and retiring to Colen. The King 
 caufed alfo two great Bridges to be made, one over the 
 Main, founded upon fifteen great flat bottom’d Boats, 
 the reft being built upon great Piles of Wood : Another 
 over the Rhine fupported by fixty one great flat Boats , 
 each lying the diftance of an Arch from one another ; and 
 many Families of people living fomecimes in the Boats un- 
 der the Bridge, The Bridge over the Main is taken a- 
 way; but that over the Rhine is (till continued: Upon 
 which I faw the prefent Eleflor paffiig in his Coach; 
 a Perfon of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having 
 long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his 
 Name Joannes Philippas of the Noble Family of Schoen- 
 &wg,EIe£korand Archbifliop of Mentz , Bifliop of Wurtz- 
 burg, and BiffiOp of Worms^ Arch-Chancelibur of the 
 i'diil H Empire 
 
Cs®> 
 
 Empire for all Germany) the firft of iht EletforalColledge$ 
 in all publick Conventions he fits at the right hand of the 
 Emperour, and is a SuccefTour of the famous Boniface , 
 an Englifb man, Bifliop of M^/r, whofo much promo- 
 ted the Chrifiian Religion in thefe parts. But though his 
 Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Ecclefiaftical 
 Ele&ors of Coltn and Triers, yet his Territories come 
 fhort ; and they lye not together, but fcatterirgly with 
 thofe of the Palatinate, Spier , Franck fort, and divers 
 places in Franconia . But of late he hath much encreafed 
 his Power , by feizing the great City of Erfurdt in 
 Turingia, which he hath fince much beautified and ftrengtb- 
 ned by a Citadel built upon St. Peters kill. 
 
 From Mentz l pafied by water up the River Main , to 
 Franckfort, a free City of the Empire, called Fray Hum 
 Franconim , a Paflage or Ford of the Franks > as ferving 
 them for a Retreat, when they entred or returned from 
 Gaul ; at prefent Franckford upon the Main , to differ- 
 ence it from Franckford upon the River Oder, which is an 
 Univerfity .* It is a large Town, divided into two parts 
 by the River; the lefier called Saxonhaufen , or Saxon* 
 houfes, united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the 
 eJ Main of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of 
 good Trade, and well fcated for it, as having the ad- 
 vantage of the River Main, which pallet h by Bamberg, * 
 Scbminfurt, Wurtzburg r Guemund, or Gaudia mundi $ 
 and alfo the Tauber , and other Rivers running into it, af- 
 fordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter 
 parts of Franco#ia$ and the Main running into the Rhine ^ 
 makes a large communication both up and down that 
 Stream. 
 
 But this place is moft remarkable for the Elefiion of 
 the Emperour, which, by the Laws of the Golden Bull , 
 ftouldbe in this City, as alfo for two great Marts or 
 
 Fairs 
 
' '** 
 
 C 51 ) 
 
 Fairs kept in March and September, at which times there 
 is an extraordinary concourfe of people from remote 
 parts, in order to buying and felling of fevera I Commo- 
 dities, efpecially for Books, as well printed here as in 
 other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every 
 year, and have no final 1 dealings that way, by the Fa* 
 ftorsof the Germans, Hollanders, kalians, French, and 
 Englijb: although at other times their trading in Books 
 feems not great ; for when I was there out of the time of 
 the Mart, the Stationers Shops being (hut up, made but a 
 dullfliow, Here are alfoa great number of good Horfes 
 bought and fold : and on the North-fide of the City there 
 is a fpacious place for a Horfe- Fair, The City is ftrong 
 and well fortified ; and moft part of the Town are Luthe- 
 rans. Tn the German wars, the King of Sweden having 
 taken Hanat v. Pent a Meffeoger to Franckfort to know 
 whether the City would peaceably and fpeedily fet open 
 their Gates unto him* and accept fairly of a Garrifon, or 
 Hand to the hazard of a Siege : And although they were 
 unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the worft, they con- 
 fented, That the King fhould have free paffage for his 
 Army through the City ; and that for the better affurance 
 of it, fix hundred of his men fliould be received for a 
 Garrifon into Saxonhaufen ; and alfo that the Magiftrates 
 and People fliould take an Oath unto his Majefty. So that 
 upon the 17 th of November, 1631. the Kings Army paf- 
 fed through Saxonhaufen over the Bridge , quite through 
 the Town. Colonel Vitzthumh was left Governour in 
 Saxonhaufen; and the King himfelf rode bare-headed 
 through the Streets : and by bis obliging behaviour did 
 generally win the affeftions of the beholders ; and three 
 days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of 
 Heffcn-Caffell, and the Landtgrave of Hejfen-Darmftadt t 
 where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw 9 or 
 
 cht “ c " 4 h a 
 
(50 
 
 Feteravia, and were feafted in the fame room where the 
 Emperours at their Coronation ufe to be entertain- 
 ed. 
 
 In Saxonhwfen there is a Houfe anciently belonging 
 untotheKnigh s of xhGteutonicJ(Order , whichhaththe 
 priviledge of a Sanfluary for Man- flayers and Bankrupts ; 
 but it is a fecurity but for fourteen days. Upon this fide 
 there is the largeft portion of Land belonging to Frank- 
 fort 5 on the other fide very little. 
 
 This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there 
 are fo many Jews in it ; for a diftinflion they wear great 
 Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar 
 drefs of their Head. 
 
 The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew , where ma- 
 ny of the Emperours have been crowned, is large, hath 
 a high Steeple, and is built of a red ftone. There are 
 divers handfome Fountains in the Town, and good Hou- 
 les; in one of the beft of which liveth Monfieur Pitrn 
 Nenfville, a great Merchant, and a civil worthy perfon, 
 well known in moft places of Commerce ; who obliged 
 me with Letters to Venice , and other places. 
 
 From Frankfort I continued my Journey through the 
 BergfiraeSy pafling by Darmjladt , which belongs to one 
 of the Brothers of the Houfe of Heffen , commonly known 
 by the name of the Landtgrave of Beffen Darmjladt $ and 
 afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the fight 
 of Hills, and fomecimes near them : the whole Country 
 planted with Wallnut- trees, Vines, Corn, and in fome 
 places with Tobacco; till I arrived at Heidelberg. 
 
 In coming into this Town we paffed over the River 
 *Nma^ Nicer , otNecarue, upon a Bridge covered over 
 fto© one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood : m 
 the lame manner is the long Bridge covered at theen- 
 mm of t heCity of jdUfJwdti* della faglia in halt. 
 
 -i " “ ° The 
 
< 0 > 
 
 The River Nectar arifeth near the Martkm r 
 
 mvr Swartz^ld^ or Black Forejt, and paffing through 
 the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg , runneth into , 
 the Rhine at eJA&nheim ; This, thoagh none of the great- 
 eft, yet is a confiderable River of Germany ; arid hath di- 
 vers good Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz, Tubingen^ 
 Wirtingen , FJJingen, Stutgard , Canfiat , Laujjen , Hailbrun 5 
 Heidelberg. 
 
 There being wars at that time when I w as in this Coun- 
 try, between the FU&or Palatine and the Duke of Lo- 
 rain: The Eleftor refidedfor the moft part at Franken* 
 dale , to be near his Forces. 
 
 Heidelberg is feated on the South*fide of the River 
 Neccar , between it and a ridge of high Hills, ib as it 
 cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to 
 be extraordinary fheng, as being over-looked by the ad- 
 jacent Mountains: It lieth moft at length from Eaft to 
 Weft : It hath been an Univerfity fince the year 1346, 
 at w hich time it was begun by Rufertm^ Count Palatine^ 
 and at prefent is much frequented. In the great Church 
 was kept the famous Library, which, after that the sp&«- 
 niards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome % 
 and added to the Vatican , where I faw it in the year 1 66^» 
 being placed upon one fide of a very long Gallery be- 
 longing to the Vatican Library $ and the Duke of Urbiri% 
 Library placed on rhe otherlide, over-againft its both 
 which made a notable addition to the Papal Library* In 
 this Church and the Church alfoof St .Peter, are divers 
 Monuments of Frinccs of the Palatine Family , and of 
 Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church 
 here, and the prefent Eleflor is of the Order of the Holy 
 Qhoft \ and his Son a Marefchal of Frame 1 and good 
 French High htch are both generally fpoken here® 
 Th e Lutherans have aifo a Church in this Town , by the 
 
 hmm 
 
( 54 ) 
 
 favour of the prefent ILIefior ; although he himfelf be a 
 Calvinijl : and to exprefs his generous kindnefs the higher 
 in this point , the firft Scone was laid by himfelf and his 
 Son ; and ic is called the Church of Providence , according 
 to the Ele&or’sMotto, Domims Provide bit. 
 
 Upon the Town-houfe is a Clock with divers Moti- 
 ons, and when the Clock ftrikes, the figure of an Old 
 man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and (hakes his 
 wings, Souldiers fight with one another, and the like. 
 The Prince’s Stables for above a hundred Horfes are feat- 
 ed upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer 
 formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the 
 Ijnperialifb ; as alfo divers of the Statues on the out- 
 fide of the Caftle, which is feated high above the 
 Town* 
 
 The prefent Eleftor is Carolus Ludovicus , Son to the 
 KingoF Bohemia , Frederick the Fifth; he was born in 
 the year 1617. and paffed his Youth an Exile from his 
 Fathers Kingdom and Eleflorate : and at the pacification 
 at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any reftitution to 
 be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of Mun- 
 fter 1648. he was reftored to the lower Palatinate , and 
 i65?.returned to the poffeflion of his Fortunes : a highly 
 accomplished Prince , much honoured and beloved by 
 his Sub;e6s. In the year 1650. he married Charlotta s 
 Daughter to William the Fifth, Landgrave , and to the 
 famous Amelia Elizabeth, Landgravefi of Haffia 5 by 
 whom be had the CWPrince,or Electoral Prince Charles , 
 and a Daugbter s the Princefs Charlotte Elizabetha\but up- 
 on fome difcontent the Princefs Eleftrefs ft nee returned 
 to her own Fnends and Count ry. This Eleftor is alfo 
 Knight of the mqft Noble Order of the Garter, Great 
 Treafurer of the Empire, and together with the Eleftor 
 of Saxon/, Yicar of the Emgin?. • 
 
 In 
 
( 55 ) . 
 
 In his Palace or Gaftle at Heidelberg, are divers things 
 remarkable ; a very great Tower to be equalled by very 
 few 5 within which isa Theatre for Comedies. This Was 
 formerly called frut&kaifar , or the Tower that bad- 'Defi- 
 ance, or ihreatned the Emperor 3 but fince the Reftaura- 
 tionof the Eleftor, there are fonie Works drawn about 
 it in the figure of aS'ar, and theolddifobliging Name is 
 by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at 
 prefent called the Sternfchanz, or the Star f erf 9 By k 
 
 is a handfome Garden ; in the Ditch whereof there was 
 then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The 
 Grotto's and Water- works are very handfome : they were 
 alfo making divers others , having the advantage of the 
 fide of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make 
 Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongft other Fountains; 
 thatof the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken 
 notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with 
 Veflfelsof no ordinary fize ; yet inconfiderable, if com- 
 pared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning 
 to the Cellars; it was built by this prefent EleStd^s Or- 
 der, 1664. andgoethfar beyond any made before* 9 It 
 contains 204 Faiders and odd meafure, or about two 
 hundred Tuns infteadof Hoops it is built with large 
 knfce Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted 
 and carved, and have divers Infcriptions upon them 3 
 and fupported by carved Pediflals. Upon one fide of it 
 is a handfome Staircafe toafeend to the top of the VeD 
 fel 3 upon thetopof which is a Gallery fee round with* 
 Baliifters, three and forty fteps high from the ground. 
 
 Aboutan Evgli[h mile from Heidelberg ; between- the 
 Hills, is a folitary place, where three large Streams 
 or Springs gufh out of the Mountain, and prefently filfr 
 five Ponds, have three handfome Cafcates or Falls, 
 and after run into the Plain , and are Tirong enough in & 
 
 final! 
 
final Ifpace to turn four Mills j this i* called Wei f shun] 
 or the Wolfs Fountain , from a Priacefs who formerly re- 
 tired into a Cave in this defart place, and was here de- 
 voured by a Wolf. 
 
 While I was at Heidelberg^ two Englifb men came kind- 
 ly to me, Mr. Fillers, and timothy Middleton, belonging 
 to Lobensfeldt Clotjler, a Convent formerly of the Jefu- 
 its, butfiaceletout to about an hundred Engltfh , who 
 left their Country r 66 1 . catne up the Rhine, and by the 
 permiflion of the Eledtor, fetled themfelves a few miles 
 from hence, living altogether, men, women, and chil- 
 dren, in one Houfe ; and having a community of many 
 things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling them- 
 felves Chriftian Jews j and one Mr. Poole , formerly li- 
 ving at Norwich, is their Head. They cut not their 
 Beards, and obferve many other Ceremonies and Duties, 
 which they either think themlelves obliged to from fome 
 Expreflions in the Old Teftament,or from fome New Ex- 
 po fuion of their Leaders. 
 
 From Heidelberg I made an excurfion, and had a fight 
 of Spire, feared in a Plain, on the Weft .-fide of the Rhine', 
 a place of Antiquity, conceived to be Urbs Nemetnm of 
 old ; a large place and populous. The King of Sweden 
 in the German wars demoliflied the Works about it , not 
 willingtofparefo great a number of his Souldiers as 
 was required to Garrifon it, and make it good. Ic is an 
 Epifcopal See under the Archbilhop of Mentz : there 
 are many fair Houfes in it, divers Churches, and a fair 
 Cathedral, with four large Towers, The Romani/ls, the 
 Lutherans, and Cdvinifs preach in it at feveral hours. 
 It is the more populous, and filled with people of good 
 quality, byreafonof the concourfe of perfons from o- 
 ther parts of Germany, for the decifion of Law Suits: 
 For here the Imp^il ^hamfe)er jis.beld, and many differ- 
 ences 
 
( 57 ) 
 
 ences which arife in the Empire are determined, and the 
 Elefiors and other Princes, in force tryals at Law, may 
 be called hither. It is a fettled Court, which Maxims* 
 lun theFirft, for the better eafe of all perfons , placed 
 firft at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at Spire , 
 from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the con- 
 fent of all the Eftates. Things Cognofcible in this Court 
 are determined by an Imperial judge, and fealed with the 
 Emperours Arms , fo that there lieth no appeal unto the 
 Emperour. 
 
 Another day I went to Manheim , formerly a Village, 
 feated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar ; but 
 walled about by the Ekflor Frederick the Fourth, and 
 fince is much encreafed ; all the Streets being large and 
 uniform, and a Noble Citadel built ; within which, over- 
 againft the G3te, the Elefior defigns a Palace, the Mode! 
 of whicblfaw: and at prefent, on the right hand, there 
 are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth 
 the Elefior Palatine’, in another the Prince his Son ; and 
 in the third the Princefs his Daughter : behind thefe there 
 is a handfome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen, 
 the Churfurjls Miftrefs. Here are fome good Pictures, 
 as a Head of Hans Holben, and a Landskip with the Sto- 
 ry of the Union of the Sniffers. The Bridge over the 
 Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is alfb remarkable, as 
 having fix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and 
 three fmill ones on the fide, There are Palifado’s all a* 
 long the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and with- 
 out upon the Efplanade. 
 
 FromHeidelberg I travelled to Nurnberg in the Compa- 
 ny of Captain Wagtnfeyl, who had been in the Ptlifi and 
 Hungarian wars, and was employed a little before in 
 blowing up the Gaftle of Launfleyn, belonging to the E- 
 lettor Palatine, to prevent its furprifal by the Duke of 
 
 I Lorrain. 
 

 ( 5*3 
 
 Lorrain. He was then employed to raife a Company at 
 Nurnberg, for the Service of the Eleftor Palatine. I had 
 a good ad vantage in my Journey by his Company ; for he 
 travelled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing, 
 and courteous perfon. 
 
 The firft day we travelled near to the Keccar , in ftony 
 and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to 
 Mojpach, the Feafants conduced us from Village to Vil- 
 lage with bundles of lighted Straw. 
 
 The next day we came to Voxberg , w here there is an 
 old Cattle, and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal or 
 Mcrgetbeim , the Seat of the Grand Matter of the Herrhn 
 Deutchern, or the Teutonic/: Order. The Town is well- 
 built, hathafairPM^ci, with a large Fountain in it, and 
 a Statue of one of the Grand Matters, with a long Corridore 
 from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, 
 and hath had large Poflefiions, as may be feen in tbeexaft 
 Account of iht Teutonick Knights of Pruffia, made out 
 from the beft Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend 
 Mr. djhmple, in his Noble Defcription of the Order of 
 rhe Garter ; and as Lewi* du May , Counfellor unto the 
 Duke of Wirtenberg, hath fet it down. For the Knights 
 Templars and of St. John .having fought profperoujly againfi 
 the Infidels, raided an Emulation in fome German Gentlemen T 
 who waited upon the Emptrour Frederick the Firfl, in hi s 
 Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croifado. And 
 becaufe they were inft ailed in the Church and Hojpitalof St. 
 Mary at jerufakm, they were called Marianites. Their 
 Order differed nothing from thofe above-mentioned , but in 
 the form and colour of their Crofl ’ and was approved by Pope 
 Celettin the Third . Afterwards when Jerufalem was ta- 
 ken by Saladin, thofe Knights betook themfelves to Ptole- 
 mai s,from whence the Emperour Frederick the Second fent 
 them bac\ into Germany, and employed them againjl the 
 
 Pruffians 
 
f59) 
 
 Pruflians and Livonians, who at that time were fill Pa- 
 gans- But by the Valour and Piety of thofe Knights , their 
 Souls were brought into fubjeff ion to Chrijl , and their Boy 
 dies to the Order which began that war tn the year 1 22c. 
 a little while after thefe Knights found themjelves 
 Jlers of a Country of very large Extent , which obeyed the 
 Order , till the year 1*25. at which time Sigifniond, King 
 of Poland, gave the invejiiture of Pfuflia unto A be a Mat* 
 pdf of Brandenburg. In the year 1 563. the Great <tMa~ 
 Her became Secular again , and took a fart of the Lands fub~ 
 Jeff to the Order , with the name of Duke of Cur land* And 
 Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars 
 between the Po!anders 3 Mufcovites 3 and Swedes 5 thefe DJI 
 did at length become Majiers of it, and have it in poffe/fion 
 Jlill. So that there is no more remaining of the Teuton ick 
 Order, but fome Commander tes fcattered here and there in 
 Germany. And the Great Majler hath his Seat and Reft - 
 dence at Mergenthal. 
 
 They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Crofs. The 
 Dignity of Grand Mafter is generally held by fome Great 
 and Honorable Per fon s, and in the Great Aflemblyhe ta- 
 keth place of all Bifliops-The prefent is the Baron of Am- 
 ring ; and the Grand Mafter before him was Leopold Wil- 
 liam , only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the 
 Third. 
 
 From hence we travelled to hauterbach^zt which we 
 paflfed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church up- 
 on the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented 
 by Pilgrims, they have made handfome ftane Stairs from 
 the bottom to the top : then to Rotenburg, and lodged at 
 Burgperner , and the next day by Schantzbach we came 
 to Nurenberg. Rotenburg is an Imperial City, which 
 fome have likened unto Jerufalem for its Situation upon 
 hilly .places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near 
 
 I 2 the 
 
(6o) 
 
 the head of the River lauber^ which may be accounted 
 the iecond River of Franconia, palling by Rottingen,Lan. 
 den , and Wcrthaim, where it runneth into the Main, 
 Nurenberg is the faireft City that I faw in Germany 5 
 the Houfesmoft of them of Free-ftone, very high; and 
 d i vers of them painted on the outfide, and adorned with 
 gilded Balls on the top ; many are of fix or feven Stories 
 high. Der Herr Feller hath one of rhe faireft. The 
 City is very populous and full of Trade , although it 
 fiands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River 0 
 The three beft Churches are the Hofpitat Church , lately 
 built very fair ; Sc* haurence^ which is very large, with 
 two high Steeples in the Front ; and Sr. Sebald the beft of 
 the three. The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a 
 Cart drawn with Oxen , in that p ! ace where the Oxen 
 ftood*ftill,they buried the Body, anderefled this Church 
 in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood , 
 very well carved, and efteemed at a high rate. The Cru- 
 cifix without the Church is very great, and of a black 
 colour : and fome fancy that the Raht Herrn , or Magi- 
 ftratesof the Town, haverepofiteda Treafure within ir e 
 The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole 
 Church foftately, that it may pafs in the firft rank of 
 Lutheran Churches y that Religion being here prafti fed 
 in its fp!endour e ThePrieft every morning reads the 
 Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a 
 Sermon. The Town*houfe is well worth the feeing: In 
 it the Hall is fpacious* as alfo the Chambers, andfurniflh- 
 ed with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and pain- 
 ted with white and goldj green and gold 5 dark coloured 
 and gold, and the like. There isone Pifture of moil of 
 the Great Perfons in Germany entertained in the Great 
 Mall ; another of the three Brothers of Saxony 5 one 
 ©f an Elephant as big as the life 1 a piece ofSt* JobmtA 
 
 St £>- 
 
( 61 ) 
 
 $u Mark, and another of St. Peter- and St, Fmt^ both by 
 Albert Durer: but themed rare piece is that of jfdam 
 and E*vc y by the fame Matter, with this Infcription * 
 
 Albertus Durer Almang facie bat pojl Virgins part urn $ 1507- 
 
 Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the 
 Picture of our Saviour and the ‘ bleffed Virgin. Over 
 the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe 
 carved in Wood, and painted over, with this Infcripv 
 tion ; 
 
 Omnia, hahent ortus fuaque increment a, fed ecce 
 Quern ctrnis , nunquam Bos fait hie, Vitulns . 
 
 The Caftle fiandeth upon a high Hill, from whence the 
 Town makes a handfome fliow : In it are obfervable a 
 very deep well, the Emperors Chappel, his Pifiure, and 
 the Pifiuresof the Elefiors ;good Night, pieces 5 and one 
 of a man behind a white Curtain tranfparent, very well 
 exprefTed. The Armour of Hebbelevan Gdlinghen the 
 great Sorcerer is here Iho wn ; and in the Wall of the Ca- 
 ftle the marks of his Horfes feet, when he leaped from 
 thence over the 7 l oven ditch. 
 
 The new Fountain was not then finished $ but the Sta- 
 tua’s in Brafs made for it were excellent $ the Sea-Horfes 
 large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life $ and 
 Neptune^ who was to ftand on the top, is above three 
 yards and a half high. When I came firft into this place s 
 I was not a little furprized to behold the fairnefs of the 
 Hcufes, handfome Sreets, different Habits, induftrious 
 People, and nearnefs in all things, more than I had ob- 
 ferved in German Cities before ; and no place hath grea 3 
 ter number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brafs, Ivory * 
 
 Wood- 
 
062 ) 
 
 Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap 
 rate; and there are Officers to infped: and enquire into 
 the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfeft, and 
 without fraud : they make flrong and handfome Clock- 
 work. The King of Poland prefented the Grand Signi- 
 or with a very noble Clock, who took fo much delight 
 in it, that when it required fome mending (the lurks be- 
 ing ignorant in Clock-work) he fcnt it from Adrianople as 
 far as Nurenburg , to be fet in order again. 
 
 Gufiavm Adolphus, King of Sweden , was more magnifi- 
 cently received and entertained in this City, than in 
 any other of Germany ; which fo incenfed Wallenfleyn, that 
 he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great 
 fpoil upon their Territories ; But the King of Sweden 
 marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence 
 towards Lutzen , where in a bloody Battel he loft his 
 life. 
 
 The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg , and 
 hath divers Stone Bridges over it ; and below the Town, 
 joyning with the River Rednitz 3 runneth into the River 
 $J\law at Bamberg $ and the Main runs at laft into the 
 Rhine . The Reduitz arifeth at Weiflenberg, and is not 
 
 far from the River Altmul, which runneth into the Da- 
 nube > towards Regenfburg \ Upon this convenience, 
 Charles the Great defigned to make a Communication of 
 pafifage bet ween the Danube and the Rhine ; and made a 
 Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the 
 Altmul , to joyn thole Screams for the commodity of Paf- 
 fage by Boat ; but after he bad proceeded two German 
 miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Di- 
 verfions made him give over that noble Defign , whereby 
 there might have been a Commerce by water, from the 
 Low- Countries to Vienna , and even unto the Euxine 
 Sea. 
 
 The 
 
( 63 ) 
 
 The Roman Lieutenant in Nero’s time, had a defire 
 unite the River Sonne and the MofeUa ; and to make a 
 paflage between the Mediterranean and the German Oce- 
 an \ having been at the mouth of the MofeUa by Goblentz* 
 and pafiedfrom Chaalon upon the foft and noble River 
 jlraris or Soane unto Lyon, [ cannot but think thefe ve- 
 ry goodly Streams, and fit for fuch a purpofe* The 
 prefent King of France hath a defign to unite the River 
 Aude with the Garonne , and fo to have a paflage by Boat 
 from the Mediterranean Sea by Fholoufe and Bourdeaux , 
 into the Ocean. When I travelled in thofe parts , view- 
 ing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult 
 work, and foit proveth but the King hath proceeded 
 already very far therein. 
 
 About four Leagues from Nurnberg lyeth Altdorff, be- 
 longing unto it, madeanllniverfity in the year 1623*0011- 
 taining, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The 
 Phyfick Garden is bandfome , and well flocked with 
 Plants, to the number of two thoufand. Dr. Hoffman 
 the Botanick and Anatomick Profeffour , fliew’d me many 
 of the mod rareof them ; and prefented me with divers*. 
 The Anatomy School is notlargejyer the only one in thofe 
 parts of Germany : And they have divers Curiofiries pre- 
 served in it, as the Skeleton of a Harr, of a Hode, of a 
 Man, of a Bear bigger chan a Horfe: And fome Pifltires, 
 
 as one of a Ninivite,m& another of Mofes , which they 
 take to be Ancient. Dr. Wagenfeyl , ProfeflTour of La w 
 and Hiftory, brother to Captain Wagenfeyl , who travel- 
 led with me from Heidelberg , invited us to lodge at his 
 Houfe, and fhew'd me his Library , and all his Rarities 
 and Coyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having 
 lived in moft places of Europe , and fpeaks many Lan- 
 guages well; he gave me a piece of the firft mony that 
 was coined in Germany . In the Univerfity Library I 
 
 few 
 
( *4 ) 
 
 faw a fair Hortus Eyjletenjis r and Youngermn's Golle- 
 ftion of Plants by his own hand. 
 
 At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to 
 the Holland AmbaflTador in Turky , who had travelled hi- 
 ther over-land from Conjlantinople , in their return into 
 the Low- Countries, travelling in Greek Habits. 
 
 From hence I went to Newmarkt, a good Town in the 
 upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria , and 
 the next day through Heinmaw, fubjeft to the Duke of 
 Newburg, to Regensburg. 
 
 Ratijbom , Regenfburg, Jugujla Tiber ii } CoJonia Quart a- 
 mrum 5 the chief place of the Roman Forces in this limit 
 of the Empire, where the fourth Italick Legion had a 
 conftant Nation \ was made a Colony by Tiberius in the 
 year, as fome conceive, of the Paftlon of our Saviour. 
 It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour 
 jirnulphm, who had a great aflfeftion for this place, fo 
 pleafantly feated, and in a good Country* Here the 
 River Regen runs into the Danube 5 from whence it was 
 called Regenfburg . There are two Bridges, one of wood 
 below the Town, and another Bridge of ftone of 
 about fifteen Arches ; which is the faireft ftone Bridge o- 
 ver the Danube. It is an Imperial City, but not with- 
 out fome acknowledgment to the Duke of Bavaria : And 
 although it be ftrongly fortified, yet it was taken by the 
 Swedes in the German wars. There are many fair build- 
 ings in it, both private and publick; and though I am 
 not able to confirm what fome report, that there as many 
 Churches and Chappels in this City, as there are dayes in 
 the year$yet are there many fair Churches and Convents : 
 As the Cathedral of St. Peter , in the South* fide of which 
 is the Pifture of St .Peter in a fliip ; and on the North a- 
 otherof the Apoftles firft Miflion. In the Piazza ftand s 
 a neat little Church, the Convent of St. Paul , founded 
 
 b y 
 
<«$) 
 
 by St". Wolfgtngut Bifliop of this place, the Convent of 
 St. Emermmus Bifliop of Rat if bone, a Saint of great Ve« 
 neracion here, though but of little mention or name in 
 ther parts. The name of Albertus Bifliop of this 
 
 place, hath alfo added unto the Fame of Regenfburg, 
 
 But that which chiefly promoteth its iuftre, is the 
 General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this 
 City, and is not to be called in any part out of Germany, 
 and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of fuch 
 a noble Convention, as are the Effaces of Germany. The 
 Vice-Marfhal taketh care to provide Lodgings refpe- 
 Gively to their perfons v and feeth that all things be 
 brought hither, and at a juft price 5 that the Hall or 
 Place of Affembly befurnifhed and adorned futably to 
 the dignity of the Perfons convened, and hath an efpeci- 
 al eye and regard towards the Publick fafety. By this 
 Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much 
 fecured, and their peace and quiet Eftablifhed. Wherein 
 Germany feems to have a better advantage than Italy \ For 
 Italy being likewife divided into many Dominions and 
 Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council , 
 whereby to proceed for their Publick fafety : Which 
 makes them often fo divided in their common Concerns 
 in times of Danger, and when they moft need a joynt 
 Combination. 
 
 I entred the notable River Dambius at this place 5 
 which hath already run a good courfe, and pa(Ted by ma- 
 ny fair Towns or Cities ; as the large City of Ulme in 
 Swabenland , where it beginneth to be Navigable ; as alfo 
 Donarvert 5 Neubttrg , and Ingolftadt , and hath already 
 received the confiderable River of Liens or Leek, where- 
 by the Commodities of that great Trading City of Jugp 
 burg are brought into it. When I firft embarked at Re- 
 genjburg y I thought I might have taken leave of the Da- 
 1 K nube 
 
(«0 
 
 nub* not far below Vienna, but an opportunity made me 
 fee this great Stream beyond Belgrade , as I have declared 
 in another Account qf my Travels 
 
 The fir ft day we paflfed by Thonavpjleyn , where there 
 is a Caftlefeateduponahigh Rock, and came to Pfeter 
 or Vetera Cafira of old, now but an ordinary place. The 
 Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and 
 white, are flat bottom’d, and broad at the Head and 
 Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle ; and the 
 Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat 
 where the River is rapid, and of a fwiftCourfe. 
 
 The next day we came to Straubing ,a hand force walled 
 Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria • the Streets 
 are ftreight- and there is a Tower in the Market-place, 
 paintedaH over with green and gold-colour: There is 
 alfo a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We pafied by 
 Swartz, in the Afternoon, where the Church is feated up- 
 on a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at 
 Deckendorjf, where there is another Bridge. Near this 
 Town comes into t he Danube that confiderable River Ifer, 
 or Ifara, having -pafied by divers confiderable Towns $ as 
 Landjhut , Frijing, an&Mmchen, the Seat of Fer divan* 
 Am Maria , Ele&or of Bavaria , Great Steward of the 
 Empire, and at prefent the firft of the Secular Elefiors, 
 and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bo- 
 hemia, it being fo concluded on at the Treaty of Munfier^ 
 where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to 
 hold the Eleftorflhip, which was confirmed upon him by 
 the 'Empetour Ferdinand the Second, when be excluded 
 Frederick the Fifth, Count Palatine^ and in lieu hereof 
 there was an eighth Eleftorfliip erefied for the Palatinate 
 Family, who alfo, if the Bavarian branch doth fail, are 
 to re-enter into their ancient Eieftorlhip, and theotber 
 newly erefted is to be aboliflbed. 
 
C«7) 
 
 Thwfday, November the fifteenth, we came by Wiljho- 
 ven to Pajfaw, Patavia , or Boiodurum, a long and no- 
 ble City in the lower Bavaria, or Bayern , made up of 
 three Towns, lltftadt , Pajfaw, and Innjladt , at the con- 
 currence of the River tone, the Danube, and the lltz. 
 As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are 
 built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength 
 of the Situation and convenience of Commerce ; fo 
 is this accounted ancient , as being a Roman Co- 
 lony, and the place of the Cajtra Ratava in old cime% 
 
 The Church of St. Stephen is (lately , befides or her 
 fair Churches. The Bifhop, who is Lord of the City, 
 hath a ftrong Palace upon a Hill ; his Revenues are 
 large, and befides what he poffefTeth hereabouts, he 
 hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at 
 Bleyberg in Carinthia . This place had lately fuffered 
 
 muchbyfire$ but a good part was rebuilt, and very 
 fairly after the Italian manner : So that this may well be 
 reckoned as one of the ten considerable Cities , which 
 are upon the Danube, accounting from Ulme unto Bel- 
 grade, as Ulme , togoljladt , Ratifbone , Paffaw, Lintz , 
 Vienna , Prefburg , Strigonium , Buda , Belgrade ; all 
 which from Ratifbone I had the opportunity to fee be- 
 fore the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over a* 
 gainft the great Church at Paffaw, which was then re- 
 pairing, I faw a vaft Head cut in ftone , the Mouth 
 whereof was two fpans wide 3 and the reft proportion- 
 able. The River lltz, which runneth in here from the 
 North, is confiderable for the Pearls which are found 
 in it ; and the noble River tone or Oenus , from the 
 South , is the greateft River which hath yet entred 
 the Danube ; having patted by tofbrug , and taken in 
 the River Saltz , upon which ftanas Saltzburg $ anda- 
 rifipg in the jilpes in fuch a high Country as I irolis , 
 
 K 2 it 
 
( 68 ) 
 
 it runneth in herewith a great force, and addeth much 
 unto the fwiftnefs of the Danube, 
 
 Upon the Sixteenth we came to hintz , the chief 
 City in the higher Jujlria , not very great , but as neat 
 and handfome a City as moft in Germany . There is 
 in it a very great Market place , with never a bad 
 Houfe in it * the whole Town built of a very white 
 Free ftone; and the Caftle upon the Hill is of Modern 
 Building, and very large. There is alfo a Bridge o- 
 ver the Danube, The Imperial Forces rendezvoufed 
 here when Solyman came to Vienna > This was alfo 
 
 befieged by thePeafants of jfuftria in the time of Fer- 
 dinands Second; they having got a Body together 
 of Forty thoufand men, and many pieces of Ordnance , 
 but were ftourly repulfed after many AfTaults, and at 
 lad overcome by Papenheim, Not far below hintz 
 the River Dr&un enters the Danube 5 this cometh from 
 the Gemundner Sea , or Lacus Felicis , paffingby Lam- 
 pack , Weltz, and other Towns, and hatha noted Cataraft 
 or Fall of Waters. 
 
 The next day we pafied by Ens 3 Anijia , upon the 
 River Anifws , or Onafus , which taking its original 
 m the Borders of Saltzburgland , runs into the Da- 
 nube, and divides the higher from the lower Aujlria , 
 having received into it felf the River Saltza , upon 
 which ftandeth Cell , or Maria Cell , a place of the 
 greateft Pilgrimage in yiujlria , Near this Town are 
 many Roman Coynsand Antiquities found , and Lauria - 
 mm Rood of old , a Roman Garrifdn, and afterwards 
 a Bifhop’s See x we came to a Village on the North 
 flxoar of the Danube , called Greim, where the Graff 
 vm Leichtenfieyn hath a Houfe. A little below this 
 are two dangerous paflages in the River ; the one cal- 
 isdkthe Strudel 1 * where the River running among# vaft 
 a 1 Rocks ?; 
 

( 69 ) 
 
 Rocks j feme Under water, and fome above, the waves 
 are broken with great force, and the Current is ra- 
 pid, foaming 5 and troublefome$ and fotne skill is re j 
 quired to pals between the Ledges of Rocks which 
 are under water, and when the water is low the paf* 
 fage is very difficult. The other is the Wurbel 7 ora 
 kind of a Whirlpool , where the water turneth about 
 with great force , being hindred in its direft Courfe 
 by a great Rock. Upon the top of a high craggy 
 Rock ftands a large Grofs, and at the foot a little 
 Church, dedicated to St* Nicholas , who is Patron of 
 this dangerous place, and is believed to take peculiar 
 care of fuch as pafs this way, and therefore a little 
 Boat comes to you as foon as you are out of danger^ 
 and receives what Acknowledgment you pleafe, or 
 what perhaps you may have promifed to give , when 
 you were in fome fear. This night we lodged at //m, 
 lpfium , or lbi([a 9 a Town on the Souch-fide of the Da - 
 mbe: over againft it lieth Befenbeug , or Ufbium Ftolo- 
 msu Two German miles below lps ftands Pechlam , 
 conceived to be Arlape in former times 5 and here the 
 River Erlaph entreth the Danube: A mile and a half 
 below this lies Melcke 9 Nomale , or Mea dileCia , in.-* 
 former days the Seac of the MarquefTes of Jufiria s 
 until Sr. Leopold removed to Kalenburg , and his Sue- 
 cefTours to Vienna . The Town lieth at length upon 
 the South*fide of the River ^ but the noble Cloifter 
 of Benedictines , which taketh place of any other in 
 Aujlria , ftands upon a Hill which over-looks theTown 5 
 the River, and the Country about* is richly endowed^ 
 and remarkable for the Monuments of many great Per* 
 fons, and the Tomb of St. Gdmm , much honoured in 
 thefe parts. We dined at Sfcyw, where there is a Bridge 
 over the Dsmht, Near to thfe lieth Grmbs , another 
 
 walled 3 
 
C?o> 
 
 walled Town; and over the water Mdutern; and not 
 far from it the rich Convent of Ketrvein ; After this 
 the River Traifn, or fragiptm , cometh in from the 
 South* Having paiTed by the noted Town St. PM, or 
 St Hiffolitus, we lodged this Night at St. Eldorff , and 
 the next day pafled by Thuht , Stocker m, and Cloifier 
 Neuburg , to Vienna. 
 
 \ 
 
 THE 
 
(70 
 
 THE 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 O F 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 / E N N A , or Wien, which the 
 Turks cdWBerch, is the chief City of 
 Jujlria, in the Latitude of forty 
 eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not 
 much differing from the Latitude of 
 j Park. The old Seat of the Dukes 
 of Aufiriay and for a Jong time of 
 the Emperours of Germany. Ac- 
 cording to ancient account it ftandeth in Pannonia fupe- 
 rior , the Bounds of Pmncniaexier\d\r\gmtoKalemburg, 
 or Mons Cetius 9 five or fix miles Weftward of Vienna 5 
 beyond which ftill Weftward all that lieth between that 
 Hill and the great River Oenus, or lnne, which runneth 
 into the Danube dX Paffaw, or Cajlra Batava , w 7 as anci- 
 ently called Noricum. 
 
 It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the 
 Romans, and called Vindobona, as the Learned Petrus 
 Lmbechs hath at large declared , where the Clajfts IJlrm 
 
 fome~ 
 
(7 O 
 
 fomctimes lay, and the tenth German Legion hadits fta- 
 tion; all this fhoar or fide of the Danube being famous 
 for the aftions of Roman Etnperours againft the Marco - 
 manni and ^uadi y who pofTefled the Country on the o- 
 ther fide of the River, and efpecially for the wars of 
 Marcus Jure tins Antoninus Philofophus^ who notably de- 
 feated thofe Nations, and who, as Aurelius Viftor (who 
 was Governour of Sirmium i n Pannonia inferior , in the 
 time of Conftantius ) affirtneth, fell fick at Carnuntum , 
 now Petronel, and died at Vindobona, now Vienna \ And 
 
 to confirm the Antiquity hereof, befides what Wolfgangus 
 Lazius hath delivered, not many years fince fome Anti- 
 quities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall 
 was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging 
 ftill on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or 
 Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a fmall 
 Gold Coyn, aGlafs Urnenclofed in a Brafs one, an Iron 
 Knife like a sicefpita , or Knife ufed about Sacrifices, a 
 little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, fliut up with a Gol- 
 den coverat both ends, wherein was an Infcription in 
 ftrange Charafters : Not far from the Sepulchral Monu- 
 ment were found a Head in Brafs, a Brazen Patera , Lamps, 
 Lachrymatories, and other VeflTels , and a Copper Coyn 
 of Antoninus Caracalla. The writing in the Golden Scroll, 
 which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned 
 Lambeciust o be the old T&nnonian Charafler, and that 
 this might be the Monument of fome Pannontan Prieft in 
 the days of Caracalla , who, as good Authors deliver, 
 fpent fome time about thefe parts. 
 
 It is feated on the South-fide of the Danube , on the 
 rifa Roman*) that fide neareft to Rome , and many Roman 
 Colonies, according to the ufual pofition of Roman Sta- 
 tions, both upon this River and the Rhine 9 as may be ex- 
 emplified in Colon, Bonna , Andarnach , Coblent z y oJMents , 
 
 v " ’ - " Wormes , 
 
( 73 ) 
 
 Wormes, Spier , and Strafburg. And in like tanner in 
 the old Romm Stations , on the South or Roman fide of 
 th z Danube, which were in no ftnall number in or near 
 the Aufirian flioar, as Carmntum , or Petronel, Vifchmund^ 
 or Aquwo£tium t Eberfdorjf , or Ala Nova , , Melck , or No- 
 mate) Arlape,ov PechUrne y Lentia, or Lsnt&i for here- 
 by they better fecured their Conquefts, and hindred the 
 incurfions of the Barbarians before them. 
 
 It is not fea ted upon the main ftream of the Danube^ 
 but by a branch thereof; for the River running through 
 a low Country; it is divided into fever a 1 Screams, and 
 gnaketh many Iflands* A fmall River named Wien , run- 
 neth by the Eafl part of this City, and entreth the Da- 
 nube below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt , 
 yet fometimes low and very fhallow, fo as I have flopped 
 over it ; feme will have it to give the Name unto this Ci® 
 ty; it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath 
 divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a diftinft 
 
 apprebenfion of Vienna, we muft confider the City and 
 Suburbs thereof 5 the Suburbs are very great, and not 
 without fair Houles, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommo- 
 dations at large. 
 
 The City it felf is that walled and fortified part , de- 
 signed not only for convenience of Habitation, but alfo 
 to fuftain a Siege, or any Attack from the Turk , and is 
 now feparated from the Suburbs by a fair EJplanade 5 or 
 open Ground, above a Musket (hot over. The Houfes 
 near the wall were pulled downfince the laft Fortificati- 
 omin the Turkish war, when they were in fome fear that 
 the Turkijh Forces about Gran and Nerv-beufel , would 
 move towards them. It is fortified a lamoderna^ with 
 ten Baftions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch , 
 into which they can let the Danube: and with two other 
 Baftions towards the water, on that part of the River 
 
 L which 
 
( 74 ) 
 
 which lieth on the North*fide of the Town. The Baftions 
 are large ; upon one of them I faw Count Souches mufter 
 a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is 
 large and very deep, into which although they can let in 
 the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, left they might 
 incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls , 
 the one old and inward, little confiderable at prefent , 
 built at firft with the ranfome of our King Richard the 
 Firftj who in his return from the Holy War, was detained 
 Prifoner by the Duke of Aujlria upon the 2-oth of Decem- 
 ber ^ 1 19 2* The Anjlrians pretending they had received 
 fome affront from the King at Joppa, and that he had taken 
 clown the Enfign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a con- 
 temptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth, 
 made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Free- 
 Hone, fo well built, as to render this City one of the 
 moft confiderable fortified places in Europe . The Ejjla* 
 made gently defeendeth from the Town for three hundred 
 Faces 5 there are very few Out-works. 
 
 It is very uncertain who was the firft Builder of Vien- 
 na, and after it had been long built, it ran to decay a- 
 gai-n for Four hundred years together, till Henry the* 
 Firft, Duke of Aujlria , in the year i 1 58. did much re- 
 pair it ; and the ranfome afterwards of King Richard 
 beautified it. 
 
 The whole compais, taking in the Suburbs, makes a 
 very large Circuit , but the City it felf, which is walled 
 in 5 may be about three miles in Circumference, and is 
 exceeding populous as full of People, for the bignefs of 
 the place, as moft of the great Cities. And I could not 
 but take delight to behold fo many Nations in it, as Turks , 
 Tartars,, Gmcians , 2 ranjylvanians, Slavonians , Hunga - 
 ***** 9 Cr oat ians , Spaniards , Italians , French , Germans, 
 Mknden, d?*. all in their proper Habits* 
 
 - * ' m 
 
( 7 i) 
 
 The chief Gates are fix; i. Stubnth tr 9 or the Stuben 
 Gate towards the Eaft. 2. Karntertbor^ or the Gate of 
 Garinthia towards the South. 3. Burgthor , the 3 ’oven 
 Gate , or Gajtle Gate . 4. Schottenthor , or the Scotch 
 
 Gate * 5. Newthor, or the Newgate ; thefe twolaft to- 
 
 wards the Weft : And 6. the Gate of the red Tower to* 
 wards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the 
 Danube : and towards the water fide, there is alfo a Port 
 by the Eraperours palace, and aCloyfteror Nunnery in 
 the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port , or 
 the Gate of Heaven ♦ The five firfl of thefe Gates are 
 vaulted and arched with long paflTages through the Town- 
 wall, and have good Bridges of Wood , with Draw* 
 bridges to pafs over the Town ditch : The fixtfo is un- 
 der a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danube : 
 For that River running here in a flat low Connery, diyi- 
 deth its dreams, fotbat to pafs it quite over, there are 
 at prefent feven long Bridges made up of many thoufand 
 Trees laid one by another , after their way of making 
 Bridges. There is alfo a Bridge within the City of Vi - 
 enna , called the Hochbrug ,• or High- bridge 3 which is 
 made by the eroding of two Streets at equal Angles ; the 
 ground of one ftreet being as high as the tops of the Hgu~ 
 fesof the other, fo that to continue it, they were for- 
 ced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower fireet^ to let 
 the upper pafs over it. 
 
 The City is fairly built of ftone, and well paved ; ma- 
 ny Houfes are of fix ftories high ; they are fomewhat flat 
 roofed after the Italian way ; the Streets are not narrow, 
 but the compafs of ground will not admit them to be very 
 broad *, and their Buildings are remarkable both above 
 and below ground ; their Cellars are very deep. To fa- 
 tisfie my curiofityj I went into fome of them, and found 
 four Cellars one under another 5 they were arched, and 
 
 L 2 had 
 
C tO 
 
 fead two pair of Stairs to defcend into them. Some have 
 an open fpace in the middle of each roof, to Jet the Air 
 out of one Cellar into another, and from the loweft an 
 adit ot tube unto the top, to let the Air in and out from 
 the ftreer, fomewhat after the manner of the Mines, 
 oMnaas Sylvius , about two hundred years fince, com- 
 mending the City of Nurnburg) among o^her exprefllons 
 lets fall this: Guperent Scotorum Reges tam egregie quam 
 mediocre s Gives Norinbergenfes habttare . The Kings ,of 
 
 Scots would be content to dwell fo well as the middle 
 fort of Citizens of Nurnburg . I muft confers, when I 
 
 firft entred Nurnburg, I was muchfurprifed to fee fuch 
 a noble, large, fpruce, rich, and well built City : Bu {Vi- 
 enna doth alfo deferve the commendation which he af« 
 fordethit: Ubi Palatia dign a Regibus &Templa qua mi - 
 rari Italia poffit. Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and 
 Churches, which Italy may admire. And this being fpo- 
 ken fo long ago, is now better verified of ir. 
 
 The Imperial Pa 'ace is very Noble', Subftential, and 
 Princely furniflied 3 confining chiefly of two Courts ; the 
 one very large, the other lefler, wherein the Emperour 
 lodgeth. At the Entrance over the Gate, are fet in Ca- 
 pital Letters the five Vowels, J, E , /, O, U v whereof 
 the Phancies of men make various Interpretations. That 
 which was told me was this , Aufiru ejl imperare Orbi 
 Universe , ox, A lies Erdreich IJl Ofier retch Uni er than $ i<e. 
 All the World is fubjeft to Auflria. Although I could 
 hardly believe this was the firft intended meaning. Be- 
 fides thefe two Courts is another final! one, where fome 
 of the Pages Ipdge. I took notice of a large rough Jajpis 
 ftone lying upon the ground, little regarded or obferved: 
 it is about nine foot Diameters it was prefented unto the 
 Emperour by the Archbiflhop of Saltzburg , whole Coun- 
 try affordeth notable Quarries, and ftones of many forts ; 
 
 a 
 
( 7 ?) 
 
 a little piece of icpoIi(hed,afFordeth fine yellow, red, 
 black, and white Veins. The Paface^pf the Count de 
 Draw, and that which Count Rofhal hath lately built 
 and nobly furniflied^ are very confiderable ; with many 
 others. 
 
 There ate alfo many fair Churches , rich Convents, 
 and Conventual Churches j as that of the ' CaYmefitetS dr 
 the Franciscans, of the BenediSines, of St* Nicholas ; In 
 this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepul- 
 chral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Ha - 
 rack. The Dominican Convent is very fair* The 
 gujiines have a large Church, in the middle whereof they 
 have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy Houfe 
 a tLoretto', upon the top of which hang the Colours ta- 
 ken from the Turfy and Tartars 9 many of which Enfigns are 
 not fquare like ours, but made Efcucbeomwife, fome fil- 
 led withCircles, wherein are expreffed half Moons* The 
 Jefuites Colledges are large, who feldome fail of noble 
 Convents, efpecially in places where they have fo good 
 footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colledges 
 openeth into a fair Piazza , in the middle whereof (lands 
 a large and high ccmpofite Column of Copper uponaPe- 
 deftal of white {tone, with four Angels with EfcucheonSs 
 and on the top the bleflfed Virgin ; Infcriptions alfo, 
 in which the Emperour dedicates yiujlria unto her Patro- 
 nage and Tuition. In another Market-place, where the 
 Town-houfe is, there is a handfome statua of Juftice in 
 Copper. 
 
 I could not but obferve the Scotch Church and Cloy- 
 fler, which gave alfo the name unto the Scotch Gate of the 
 City, becaufe I fomewhat wondered how the Scots in 
 old time fhould be fo confiderable in this place, but I 
 found by Information , 2nd the Account of Lazius and 
 Matthaus Merian in High' dutch, that this Convent was m 
 
 former 
 
( 78 ) 
 
 former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long 
 Pilgrimage unto Jerusalem , founded and endowed by 
 Duke Henry the Firft, in memory of St. Gregory : and it 
 may feemlefs flrange that the Scots (houid have a Convent 
 here, and be numerous in thefe parts in former Ages , if 
 we confider that St. Colman , one of the Saints of the 
 greateft Veneration in this Country was a Scotchman , and 
 fa id to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland , who, in his 
 pafTage to Jerufalem was murdered by the Eaurs or Coun- 
 try people at Stcckerau, four German miles from Vienna , 
 and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body 
 remained uncorru'pted for a year and a half, and divers 
 Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and 
 honourably interred near Stocker an $ but by Meginhard 
 Bifoop of Jichjiadt it was tranflated unto Me Ik , and af- 
 terwards fent into Hungary and his Head kept a long 
 time at Stullweij^enburg, or "jiUm Regalis, according to 
 the Account which is here given of this Saint. 
 
 The Church of St. Peter is alfo confiderable , not for 
 its Splendour but Antiquity , as being accounted the ol- 
 deft in the City, landing in a place where in old time 
 there flood an Altar in honour of Domitian , called Ara 
 Flaviana . In this Church Jieth the Body of that famous 
 and learned Perfon Wolfgangus Lazius, with this Epitaph 
 or Infcription: 
 
 Magntfico Nohili ClariJJimo atjue fummd eruditione or- 
 mtiffimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philofo - 
 phis atquc Medicins Doltori dr Profeffori Primario , Ce- 
 lehenimi Archigymnafn Viennenfis Retfori dr Superinten- 
 dent Caefareo, dr ejufdem Sacra Caefarea? zTtfajeJl. Fer- 
 dinand! SanttiJJima memoris Conjiliario dr Hifiortco Pe 
 ritijjimo , default 0 Anno Domini MDLXXXVI* 
 
 In 
 
C 79 ) 
 
 In the Church of the Gapucines Convent, are interred 
 the Emperour and his Emprefs, and the En> 
 
 prefs Maria, wife to Ferdinand the Third, who out of 
 their Devotion and Humility, chofe to be buried io a 
 Church of this poor Order. And the Cap mines not ad- 
 
 mitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as 
 in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are ereded 
 worthy fo great an Emperour, and fuch bmprefies. 
 
 But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, contained 
 divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Perfons, 
 and is a large {lately Building , but fomewhat dark by 
 reafonof the thick painted Glafs: not covered with 
 Lead, but with Tiles of w ood, which is the only blemifli 
 thereof, yet makes a good (how. The Steeple and Spire 
 are very remarkable, as being high^ large, ftrong, and 
 handfome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire 
 ftandsaCrofsunder a Star and half Moon, according ea 
 the Figure I haveelfewherefet down, which the People 
 think to be of Gold, orat leaft very well gilded : and in 
 the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and 
 whitiflh. 
 
 They have this Account how theie came firft to be fet 
 up in this place : That when Solyman the Magnificent be-* 
 fieged Vienna , perceiving the Forces in the City to be 
 obftinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple a- 
 bout their ears : But fomeof the Baffa's and great Com- 
 manders , advertifing him how unprofitable a bufinefs it 
 would prove, and withal when he took the City, what 
 an honour it would be unto him to have fuch a Noble Py~ 
 ramid in his Dominions : He fent word into the Town, 
 That he was willing to fpare the Steeple, upon condition 
 that they would fet up the half Moon and Star (the T#r= 
 kifh Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned An- 
 fwer that they would , if he would fend the iame 
 
 unt© 
 
( 8 ® ) 
 
 onto them , which he did , and they placed it where it 
 ftandech. 
 
 This Spire hath the largeft Crockets I have obferved 
 in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with 
 foliage work. The Spire of Landfhute in Bavaria , is 
 accounted the higheft in Germany ; that of Strafburg the 
 neateft and faireft ; and this of Vienna the largeft and 
 ftrongeft. And therefore it is no wonder that when the 
 Ambafladours of Befna formerly came unto Vienna , they 
 fo often viewed and admired this Fabrick, and plainly 
 faid that all themony in their Country was not fufficient 
 to have built it. 
 
 This Steeple is accounted about four hundred fixty and 
 five foot high, being about half way up three hundred 
 and thirty eight fteps. Befides other Hills, I could fee 
 Hamburger Hill within two miles of Prefburg, and a 
 great part of jiujlria , which the long Courfc of the Da- 
 nube rend red verypleafant and delightful unto the eye. 
 In theChamber or Room from whence I had this proipefl-, 
 there is a Clock, whole Cafe being of wood, was in part 
 burnt down by Lightning , and therefore there is water 
 always kept in this placeto extinguilh the fire, and a 
 man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells 
 hand. There is alio an Inftrument of wood, or wooden 
 
 Bells or Hammers, which they make ufe of from Good- 
 friday till Eajier-funday, all the time that our Saviour was 
 in the Grave, during which time they permi t no Bells to 
 ring. 
 
 At one of the doors of the Church there is a Hone pla- 
 ced in the wall, which is generally conceived to be one 
 °f the ftones wherewith St.Stephen was ftoned. Itfeem- 
 ed tome fome kind of pebble, and is worn andpolilhed 
 by the hands of the people , who when they enter at that 
 door, do touch it with their fingers* I was alfo flawed 
 
 one 
 
(It) 
 
 one of the ftones which killed St, Steven at St. Sernine] 
 or St. Saturnine's Church in I hclcufe in France , which isr 
 aChurch abounding with Relique-Raiities, and where 
 they alfo think they have the Bodies of fevrn of the A~ 
 poftles, of St. George, of our King St. Edmund , and 
 of forty Saints. 
 
 In this Church of St. Stephen, befides many Monu- 
 ments of great Princes and famous Perfons, divers learn- 
 ed men have Sepulchral Infcriptions ; as Johannes Faber 
 Bijhop of Vienna ; Johannes CufpiniantM, and Sebaftiamss 
 Fengnageltus , formerly Library- keeper , Hilloriogra- 
 pher, and Counfellor to theEmpercur , an extraordina- 
 ry learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages , as the 
 Jnfcription delivers 5 as Hebrew , Syriack 9 Chaldee , 
 Perjian , Arabick , Turki(h $ zrflthiopkk 5 Greek ? Latin 9 
 Italian , French , Spanijh 5 German, Belgick and 
 life' 
 
 The Univerfity of Vienna is alfo remarkable, if we 
 confider the Antiquity thereof, the number ofSchclars^ 
 their courfe of Srudies, their accommodations, privi* 
 ledges and advancements. This is Paid to have been be- 
 gun by Albertus the Third, above three hundred years 
 part 5 and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been 
 borrowed from the Univerfity of Paris, and the Students 
 were did inguifhed into four Divifions or Nations ; who, 
 befides the General , have their particular Rules and 
 Officers, and were comprehended under the Claffis 
 of Auftrians 5 Nations of the Rhine , Hungarians , and 
 Saxons, 
 
 In the Aujlrian Divifion were contained the Friulians , 
 all of the Dtoccfe of all with the other Pro* 
 vinces beyond the Mounta ns. 
 
 vian the Glafis of the R bine were comprehended Sue - 
 * Jlfatians , Franconians , Hafians, 1 all the Pro* 
 
 M vinces 
 
0 »*> 
 
 winces to the South-weft, as France, Spain, Navarre , 
 Holland , Brabant. 
 
 In the third Claffis , ot Nat io Hungariae, were contain- 
 ed Hungarians, Bohemians , Polonium , Moravians , SW*- 
 vonians, all that fpeak the Tongue^ and airo 
 
 Germans. 
 
 To the CUffis , or Natio Saxonum, were reduced 5W#- 
 w , Weftphalians , Friflanders , Turingians , Mifnians * 
 Brandenburgers , P ruffians. Livonians 5 Lujatians , Pome- 
 ranians, with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England , 
 Scotland 3 Ireland , Sweden , Norway , and Denmark. 
 
 Thefe Diviftons take up all the Nations of Europe 5 
 and indeed there are Students hereof many Nations: and 
 upon Contentions and Differences the feveral will 
 
 hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy againft 
 each other, but will all unite and hold together in differ- 
 ences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen fome times 
 unto an high degree. 
 
 They foilow here the old beaten way of Knowledge : 
 and I tnet with few who had any good infight in new Pht- 
 lopfhy ; but there are many good Philologers , and are well 
 verfed in Languages, Hiftory and Antiquity : and there 
 are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from 
 other parts.Some who had taken notice of the Royal Socie- 
 ty in London 5 were very inquifitive after it 5 and when I 
 bad fatisfied them in a!! particulars, were very much 
 pleafed therewith. If they flhould fall into the way of 
 Experimental Philo fophy, being very induftrious, ’tisve- 
 ry probable they may do much therein* and they were 
 fare to have the countenance of the Emperour. I found 
 them alfo much affefted with the EngUJh Society in other 
 parts of Germany. At the Univerfity of Altorff I was 
 much enquired of concerning it : and a Magiftrate of 
 Nwnbmg , who had got a Telefcope from London, invited 
 
 me 
 
(§ 3 ) 
 
 me to his Houfe, topra&ife the way of ufing it* Her 
 Herr von Adkrfhelme of Leipficky a Perfon of great Cu~ 
 riofity, was very inquifitive after the fame Society. And of 
 late years the Curiofi of Germany have held Learned Con- 
 ventions and Correfpondence, and printed their Obfer - 
 vations at Leipfick. And fince my Return into England , 
 I have been folicited from CaJJovia in Upper Hungary , to 
 fend the 2 ranfatfions into thofe Parts* 
 
 During my (lay at Vienna , 1 went unto a publick Ana- 
 tomy of a Woman that was beheaded : the LeElure lafted 
 folong, that the Body, was Nineteen days unburied, it 
 was performed by a Learned Phyfician, Dr. Wolfftregel , 
 who read in Latin to the fatisfaftion of all perfons. What 
 I moft particularly obferved therein was this 3 The Pyra 
 midal Mufcles very plain and larger the Uterus larger 
 than is ufually obfer ved $ the Carlihgo Enfiformis double; 
 the Lungs very black ; the Eye was very well fhown 5 he 
 produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large 
 one of Paflboard and Paper, contrived and made by him- 
 (elf; the Mufcles of the Pharynx, Larynx , Os Hyoides s 
 and the Tongue , after their diffeftion , he reduced very 
 handfomely into their proper places again, to (hew their 
 natural fituation and pofition. The Anatomy-Theatre was 
 of capacity to receive above an hundred perfons ; and 
 according to the cuftome of other places, to avoid imper- 
 tinent Speftators, a piece of Mony was given for admif- 
 fion. Of Anatomy-Theatres , until of late, there have been 
 few in Germany >or none. And when I was in the Anato- 
 my-School at Altorjf , near Nnrenburg , that learned and ci- 
 vil Profeffor, Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus , told me that the 
 fame was the Firft in Germany. 
 
 Paulas de Sorbait , Prime Profeffor, Phyfician unto £- 
 leonora the Emprefs Dowager, and Knight of Hungary 3 
 was the Re&or Magnificat* Zwelfer 3 who writ Animad « 
 
 M 2 verfions 
 
f«4> 
 
 vtrfions upon the DiJpenfatorj/ of Aufiurg, was in great re- 
 pute in Vienna^ and had built for himfelf a noble Houfe 
 in the City, but he died fome time before my coming thi- 
 ther* 
 
 In fine* the Tlniverflty is noble, their Advancements 
 confiderable * their Priviledges greats and they have the 
 power of life and death* from ancient and latter Concef- 
 fions of their Dukes and Emperours, 
 
 But the greatefl: luftre unto Vienna is the Refidence of 
 the prefent Emperour Leopold its ; he was born in the 
 year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the 
 Third • he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus , lg* 
 natm, Francifcus, Balthazar , Jafephus, Felicianus. His 
 eldeft Brother Ferdinand 9 King of the Romans , died of 
 the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus 
 Joftphus, Matter of the Teutonkk Order ± dyed 1662. He 
 married Margarets Infanta of Spain y daughter unto King 
 Vhilip the Fourth, whofe Children died Infants; a ver- 
 tuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and feeraed to 
 me to live very happily herein the love and honour of his 
 People, Soldiers, and Clergy. 
 
 His Perfon is grave and graceful 5 he hath the Aujlrtan 
 Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good 
 Pby ftognotnical mark* and a fign of a conttant, placid*and 
 little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his 
 Face the lineaments of four of his Predeceffours, that is, 
 of Rudolpbus the Firft, of Maximilian the Firft,of Charles 
 the Fifth* and Ferdinand the Firfir. He was very affefli- 
 onateunto his Emprefs, who, though but young, was a 
 modeft, grave Princefs, had a good afpeft, was zealous in 
 her Religion* and an Enemy unto the Jews. He (hewed 
 alfo great refpedt and obfervance unto the Emprefs Dow- 
 ager Eleonora, who was a fober and prudent Princefs * 
 weltskittedinall kind of curious Works, and delighted 
 
 fometimes 
 
<&s) 
 
 fometimes to ffioot at Deer from a Stand, or at other 
 Game, out of her Coach, He was alfo very loving unto 
 his Sifters, beautiful and good Ladies ; whereof one, the 
 eldeft, wasfince married unto that Noble Prince Michael 
 Wifnowitzski, King of Poland. 
 
 He fpeaks four Languages, German 5 Italian, Spanijh , 
 and Latin* He is a great countenancer of Learned Men, 
 and delighteth to read , and when occafion permitted}, 
 will pafs fome hours at ir* The worthy Petrus Lambe- 
 clm his Library Keeper, and who is in great efteem with 
 him, will ufuaily find out fome Books for him which he 
 conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he re- 
 commended a Tranflation of Religio ^Medici unto him , 
 wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleafed, and 
 fpake very much of it unto Lambecim , infotnuch that 
 Lambecm asked me whether I knew the Author, he be- 
 ing of my own name, and whether he were living: And 
 when he underftood my near Relation to him, he became 
 more kind and courteous than ever, and defired me to 
 fend him that Book in the Original Englijh , which he 
 would put into the Emperours Library / and prefented 
 me with a neat little Latin Book, called Princeps in Com- 
 pendio, written by the Emperours Father , Ferdimndm 
 the Third. 
 
 He is alfo skilful in Mufick, compofeth well , and de- 
 lighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church , 
 which makes fo many Muficians in Vienna *, for no place 
 abounds more with them ; and in the Evening we feldoim 
 failed of Mufick in the Streets, and at our Windows % 
 And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church- men 
 take the greater care to fee off their Church-mufick , for 
 he goeth often to Church , and not to one, but divers, e- 
 fpecially the beft Conventual Churches ; and in his own 
 Chappel fome of his own CQmpofitions are often play’d* 
 
OO 
 
 He hath alfo excellent Mufick in his Palace , both Vocal 
 and Inftrumental ; and his private Chappel is well fer- 
 ved, where befides the excellent Mufick, there are al- 
 ways eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperour, who 
 ferve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands 5 
 and after the manner of the Italian Princes, divers Eunuchs 
 to fing. 
 
 For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in 
 Hunting, efpecially of the wild Boar in due feafors ; I 
 have known him bring home fix Boars ina morning. Some 
 ftout perfons, particularly Count Nicholas Ser ini, would 
 encounter a wild Boar alone, but at laft he unfortunately 
 perilled by Qne, which hath made others more wary 
 fince 5 and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Huntf- 
 men fo ftand about him, that the Emperour, or other 
 great perfons, may more fafely make ufe of their Boar- 
 fpears upon him* 
 
 Surely there are great numbers of them about the 
 Country, for they are no unufual or extraordinary Dill 
 in the City, though of a delicious and pleafing cafte* They 
 feed upon Acorns, Beech-majl, and Chefnuts , upon the 
 fpring or fprout of Broom , Juniper , and Shrubs , and up- 
 on the roots of Fern, and will range into Corn-fields, 
 and come out of Forrefts into Vineyards. The Huntf- 
 men are notably verfed and skilful in that Game; for 
 though they lee it not, they will diftinguilh a wild from 
 a common Swine, and ghefs whether that which they hunt 
 be Male or Female, old or young, large or .final!, fat or 
 lean ; and this they chiefly conjefiure from their tread 
 or foot, and the calling their hindfeet out of the track of 
 their forefeet. 
 
 The Emperour being fo good a Huntfman, it is the lefs 
 wonder that he is efteemed a good Hodman. Certain it 
 is 5 that he hath a very noble Stable of Horfes, procured 
 
 from 
 
(%) 
 
 from all patts^Turkijb^ Tartarian Polonian, Tranjyhanim^ 
 Saxon,Bohemian,HHngarianN A fkS'>&c and they are well 
 managed ; and they ride than to the faiisfadion of the 
 Beholders. 
 
 Having feen the Arfenal at Venice , the Stores at Chat- 
 faant^ and the Naval Provisions at Jmfierdam , l ani not 
 like to admire any other* efpeeially fo far from the Sea r 
 and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Not- 
 wichft&nding I found an A'rfenal * and place for Naval 
 VefTels to be fet out upon occafioo, and fome thereof 
 were employed in the laft Turkijh war, when they at- 
 tempted to deftroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks 
 had made over the Danube * a little above Gran and Bare * 
 han. They are built fome what like Galleys , carry great 
 Guns, and a good number of Souidiers, and will make 
 a fight upon the broad deep dream of the Danube t and 
 may be handfomely brought into the Town behind one of 
 the Baftions, when the River is high ; and hereof there are 
 fome at Rah and Komora , as I have declared elfewhere. 
 
 The Emperour hath many Counfellors, great Souidiers 
 and Courtiers about him $ among which thefe feemed of 
 greaceft Note. 
 
 Eufebins Wence flans Duke de Sagan , Prince Lob fa - 
 mtz , Pirme Counfellor , Hoff-meifter , of the Or- 
 der of the Golden Fleece 5 a perfon of a grave and fober 
 Afpeft, fomewhat blunt in convention, but of a gener* 
 ous temper, and free from all covetoufnefs, who fpent 
 his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation : He 
 was chief Favorite unto the Emperour* and though fome 
 had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the firft 
 that discovered the laft Hungarian defefiion and revolt , 
 whereby thofe Noble Perfons , Count Peter Serins and 
 NadaJH (whom I faw at Vknna) were brought unto their 
 ends* 
 
 Betirkm 
 
Henrkus Gulielmus, Count of Stahrenberg , Ober-hojf 
 Marefchal , or Lord Marjbalof the Court . 
 
 Johannes Maximilianus , Count of Lamburg , Obey ft - 
 Rammer -Herr , or G#/*/ of the Chamber , a Perfon of 
 great efteem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are 
 numerous, and many are in extraordinary ; there may be 
 an hundred of them, all Barons and Counts . Every one 
 of them wears a Golden Key before his Breaft : and the 
 Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel : Two of 
 each attend every Night* 
 
 Gundakems , Count Dietrichftein,Oberft-staIl-Meifier 9 
 or Mafter of the Horfe . 
 
 Thefe are the Chief. Thefe following are alfo confi- 
 
 derable. 
 
 Count Sinzendorff, Oberfte-Jag-Meifter , Grand Vt* 
 neur^ or Hunts- Mafter , a Perfon in good favour with 
 tbeEmperour, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as 
 have moft of his PredeceflTors. 
 
 The Count of Aver [berg Oberft Falken-Meifter , C&/// 
 Falconer , who hath twelve Falconers under him. 
 
 The Count of Paar , Chief Mafter of the Emperours 
 Foft ; 
 
 Leopoldus Wilhelmus , Marquifs of Baden , Captain 
 of an hundred Hartfhires , who are the Horfe-guard , 
 and ride with Piftols and Carabines out of the City ; but 
 within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad 
 points. 
 
 Francifcvs Auguftinus , Count of Wallenfteyn, Captain of 
 an hundred of the Foot guards of a good Perfonage , and 
 well efteemed of by the Emperour. 
 
 Sixty, or more, for the number is uncertain, and 
 not limited 5, mod of them Counts and Barons . 
 
 Raymundus i Count de Montecucult, was his General, 
 Prefident of the Council of War, Governour of Raband 
 
 the 
 
( 89 ) 
 
 the Confines about it, and of tb e Order of ’the Golden 
 Fleece y a tall Perfon, fomewhat lean, but bath a fpittit in 
 his look : he is one of the oldeft Commanders in Europe , 
 and performed good Service in Poland , Hungary , Ger- 
 many in many places, and is efteetned a prudent, valiant, and 
 fuccefsful Commander. 
 
 The Count de Sanches was a!fo a Commander of great 
 Fame, and in high efteera with the Emperour. He was 
 a Native of Rochelle \ he firft ferved the Swedes in the 
 German wars, and was a Colonel, but upon fame difguft 
 he forfook the Swedes, and ferved the lmperialijls , and 
 was made Govern our of Brin, thefecond Town in Mo- 
 ravia. After the taking of Cremhsm Juftria , General 
 Torjlenfon befieged Brin , and fent word unto theGovern- 
 our de Souches , That if he refufed to deliver up the Town 
 he would give him no quarter. Who anfwered him. That 
 he would not ask any, and alfo give none : and defended 
 the place with fu£b refoiution, that after many AfFaults, 
 Underminings, and Attempts by Granadd* s , Torjlenfon 1 
 was forced to rife, after a Siege of four months, which 
 was fp advantageous unto and the Imperial affairs, 
 
 that the Emperour took efpecial notice of him, made him 
 a B<*r0*, andof his Privy Council . He commanded alfo 
 all the Forces in Vienna, and did notable Service in the 
 laft lurktjh wars. He took the City of Nitrapv Nitria „ 
 not far from Strlgonium or Gran ; and took and flew fix 
 thoufand Turks which were fent by the Vizier of Buda a* 
 gaipft him : a worthy Perfon , and of a good Afpedh 
 Cojunt Souches the younger his Son, an Heroick Com- 
 mander, is Goverqour of the ftrong fortified place Leopold - 
 Hadt by Freijladt, a Perfon of great Civility, unto whom 
 I was much obliged. 
 
 . . .£$$$. Cpuat • Lefy who was fent 
 
 Apbgdfadour tqGonJantinofle to the Suit fin, from the Em- 
 
 ^ perour, 
 
( 9 °) 
 
 perour, is a Commander worthy of that efteem he hath 
 with the Emperour; a Perfon of great Courage, Civility 
 and Humanity, whichlmuft ever acknowledge. 
 
 The Courts of the Emprefs, and of the Emprefs Dow- 
 ager, are filled with Perfons of Note; and there are a 
 great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame, 
 as the Marquifs Fio , Sfork , Cops , and many more* Many 
 of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good efteem 
 with the Emperour ; but tb ejefuites <L "Milner and Bocca- 
 bell* are his near Favorites* Many Strangers, both Soul- 
 diers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here* And 
 Purely Strangers of parts and induftry, Jo they be of the 
 Reman Churchy are not like to raife their Fortunes any 
 where better than in thefe parts. 
 
 Though the Emperour goeth not to war .in Perfon, yet 
 hath he been fuccefsful in his wars, efpeciaJly in thelaft 
 Battel with theTurksat Sr. Gedart , where the bufinefs was 
 bandfomly and aftively managed, to fee upon the body 
 of the Turks, which had paffed the River before the 
 whole Forces of the Vizier could come over, to the great 
 Daughter of the Januaries and Turks, who fought ftout- 
 ly, and were firft pur to a Retreat by the French Caval- 
 ry. Foratfirfl the Turks feemed to prevail, and had 
 flain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries 
 which came out of Franconia^nd after their cuftome, had 
 cut off their Heads. 
 
 Among the many notable things in Vienna, the Itnperi - 
 al Library is very remarkable. He who hath feen the 
 Bodleian Library at Ox ford , and the Vatican at Rome , 
 would be much furprifed to find fuch a notable one here, 
 as may compare with them ; efpecially upon the extreme 
 Borders of the Learned part of Europe . 
 
 The number arid noblenefsof the Books doth much ex- 
 ceed the receptacle or place which confaineth them, as 
 
 making 
 
 -* \ 
 
 'I 
 
(90 
 
 making no fair ffiew at the entrance, and fomewhat want- 
 ing light* But as for the number and value of the Books* 
 they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none , but 
 rather excelleth any other Library in Europe. There was 
 a place defigned for the building of a fit receptacle for 
 them; bur, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is 
 now built in that place* 
 
 ft is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which 
 are fo well filled, that many Books are fain to lye upon 
 the Floor 5 and the Shelves ftand foc'ofe, that there is 
 but juft room topafs between them. The Manufcripts 
 ftand diftindt from the printed Books, according to their 
 Languages, being divided into fix Claffes , Theological , 
 Juridical, Medical , Philo fopbical , Hifiorical , Philology 
 cal. There can Pearce be a more admirable Colkdiion 
 than the Manufcripts in part of the firft Chamber, of He- 
 brew, Syriac J^, Arabic k, Turkijh, Armenian, zAEthiofick^ 
 and Chinefe Books. 
 
 It was begun, at leaft the Books began to be placed in 
 this receptacle, by ^Maximilian the Firft, but hath been 
 much encreafed by fucceeding Emperours, moft of them, 
 fine e Rodolpbus the Firft, being much addi&ed unto 
 Learning, there having been large acceflions from many 
 noble Libraries, and moll upon the coll of the Emper* 
 ours. The cboiceft Books in the famous Library of Bit - 
 da, of King ^Matthias Gorvinus , Son unto Huniades , 
 are now in it. The norable Library of Wolfgangus La 
 zius , who was Library- Keeper, was brought hither, and 
 Three thoufand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in 
 this Repofitory* 
 
 Jugerius Bujbequius , fometime Library-Keeper hereof, 
 added much unto it ; and in his two TurfyJIj Embaffies 
 procured great number of noble Greek Manufcripts at 
 Gonfiantinople^ which are inferibed with his own hand, 
 r ad N 2 Aug. 
 
( 92 ) 
 
 'Jug. de Bufl>eck*emit GwftanwtoPoU- A great many were 
 added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cujpint • 
 anus , Library Keeper, and Counfellor unto the Emper- 
 our. The notable Libraries and Mathematical Inftru- 
 ments of Tycho Brahe , Kepler , and Gaffendus , were pur- 
 chafed for ir. But the larged acceffion was made by the 
 noble Library of Count Fugger , which confiding of fix- 
 teen thoufand Volumes , was purchafed by Ferdinand the 
 Third. , Many were brought, fome few years pad, from 
 the K Ambrrfun Library by Inftruck, by the Learned Pe- 
 trus Lambtcius, Library Keeper, Hidoriograpber, and 
 Counfellor unto the prefent Emperour^ who hath alfo 
 an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the 
 Imperial . he then reckoned the Volumes in this great 
 Library to amount at lead to Fourfcore thoufand; and 
 by this time that number may be increafed, for he ad- 
 deth fome yearly. And. the number might almoft be 
 endlefs, if they would make ufe of their priviledge, for 
 theEmperour loath a right to have two Books of all that 
 are printed in Germany . 
 
 They have alfo a great advantage at Vienna , to acquire 
 good Manufiripts from the Turkijh Dominions , for the 
 Emperour is obliged to have a Refident w ith the Grand 
 Signor wherefoever he moveth or ordereth him to bejeven 
 at the lad fight of St. Godart , the Emperour’s Refident 
 was in the JurkiJbC amp. And when I was at Lariffa in 
 Thejjaly , the Refident Signor diCafa Nova , was inquifi- 
 tive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Mona- 
 fteries and other places. And this Emperour , like his 
 Father, will fpare no cod toward fuch Acquiries. 
 
 By the efpecial favour .of my noble Friend Lambecm y 
 I went many times into this Library * and he was fo cour- 
 teous as to Jet me have what Books I defired unto my pri- 
 vate Lodging t He^ would flaew me divers Books upon 
 
 what 
 
( 93 ) 
 
 what Subjeft I required, and offered me a fight of what 
 Books he thought rare and eft unable ; and amongft others 
 I could not but take notice of thefe following. 
 
 A Letter of the prefent Emperour of China, in the 
 Chinefe and Tartarian Languages > unto the prefent Em* 
 perour of Germany , weaved in a very fine Roll. 
 
 Another old Roll written in unknown Letters, yet a 
 little refembling the Greek ♦ 
 
 A Book^'in the Runick Language. 
 
 A very fair ^lanufcript of Ptolemy , with the Mapps 
 drawn in Colours. 
 
 The oldejl Manujcript and true Exemplar of Livie , in 
 large Letters, without diftindion of Words or Sentences , 
 very uneafie to be read , a thoufand years old , and 
 brought, not many years fince, from the Library near 
 Injpruck. 
 
 An old fair Greek Manujcript of Diojcorides , written 
 eleven hundred years fince, in very large Letters, w itbout 
 diftance of Words , or Accents, wherein ail ch e Plants are 
 lively painted ; alfo the Figures of Diofcoridcs , Galen , 
 Pamphilus , Cratevas, and other ancient Phyjicians, bought 
 of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Eufi 
 bequius. 
 
 A Book of Geometrical Proportions demonftrated in the 
 China Language. 
 
 Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pi- 
 ctures. 
 
 A noble old Greek Manujcript in great uncial Letters , 
 without flops, points, or diftance of words. 
 
 An ancient Greek Manujcript of the Book^o f Genefis , in 
 large Letters, without diftance or accents, thirteen hun- 
 dred years ago; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or 
 Draughts in Miniature or Water colours, much conducing 
 to the knowledge of ancient Habits, the manner of Feajl- 
 
 **g* 
 
04 ) 
 
 ifigy poftures at Meals f waiting of Servants and Muficol 
 Injlruments: Wherein I could not but take notice of the 
 Golden Spot upon Jofephs breaft ; and the manner of the 
 Execution of Pharaoh*s Baker , his Head being put 
 through a forked piece of wood , and his Hands tyed 
 behind him. 
 
 A fair Book of Albert Durer , wherein are many fine 
 Paintings in Miniature or Limning ; as alfo a Sphere , and 
 within ic a Globe carved and painted by him. 
 
 A fair Book of Michael Angelo^ wherein, befides many 
 rare things in Architecture, are all the paintings and de - 
 figns of the Belvedere in little. 
 
 A fair Alcoranin Arabick, interlined with the 7 urfyfb 
 to explain it. 
 
 The Bible in the Goptick and Perfian Languages. 
 
 Luther s own Bible , marked with his own Hand i and 
 interlined by him with Notes in ma.ny places. 
 
 A fair Greek Manujcript of the Nevp lejlament , fifteen 
 hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Pur- 
 ple. 
 
 Ther$ was a\fo a Magical Glafi, obtained by the Em- 
 perour Rodolphus , whereby to fee Apparitions , and con- 
 verfe with Spirits ; which fome conceive to be the fame* 
 or of the like nature with that ufed by Kelly. 
 
 Of ancient Greeks Roman, and Gothick Medals and 
 Coyns , in Gold, Silver, and Copper , to the number of fix- 
 teen rhoufand. Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to 
 have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho . 
 
 I let fall fome Drops into this Ocean , adding fome 
 €oyns. Intaglio* s } and Inscriptions not to be found in that 
 large work of Gruterus ; which having found in the Em- 
 perours furthefl: Dominions and Tnrkijhpans y long out of 
 his pofTeffion, where there had been no great enquiry af- 
 ter them ; were iffcewed unto his Imperial Ma jefty by Pe- 
 trus 
 
( 95 ) 
 
 trus LmbcciuS) and fo well accepted by him, that hefaid 
 I might have the ufe of what Books I de fired ; and at my 
 return into England he gave me a formal Pafs in Latin for 
 my fafe Travel, and that myTrunksor Goods might not 
 be fearched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in 
 pafling fo many Principalities and free Cities , Command* 
 ingall in his own Dominions and Requeuing all Princes 
 in Germany to favour me, and permit me to pafs freely 
 without moleftation; It was thus Subfcribed , 
 
 Leopoldus Gulitlmus 
 Comes in Kinigfeggs. 
 
 Ad mandat um Sacr. Cafi 
 Majejlatis proprinm 
 Better* 
 
 The Rarities of the great Duke of Tufcany , Thelrar- 
 fure of Loretta , Ss Mar 4, St. Denis in France , of the 
 Duke of Saxony at Drefden, and others, were very fa- 
 tisfaftory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, 1 would 
 not leave Vienna without a fight of themoft noble Trea~ 
 fury or Repojitory of his Imperial Majefty ; efpecially ha- 
 ving heard fo much thereof, and knowing it to be the 
 Collection of many fucceeding Emperours. I therefore 
 took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and 
 was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent 
 Curiofities thereof. To fee down all I fa w, were a work 
 too large for this Volume ; and the Catalogue of them * 
 which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in 
 Folio* I fhall therefore only mention theft following 5 
 
 where- 
 
C?6) 
 
 whereby feme conjefture may be made of the reft. 
 
 In the firft Cupboard or Cafe were many noble Veflfels* 
 turned and lhaped out of Ivory , a Cup turned by the 
 Emperours own Hand ; another turned by Ferdinandus 
 the Third* Gallant Cups of timber ; Spoons and Veffels 
 of Mother of Pearl ; many noble works in Coral j a fine 
 Galley in Ivory > and Cups made out of Rbinocerot's horn. 
 
 In the fecond, 
 
 An Elephant of Ivory with a Cajlle upon his back, and 
 over the Cajlle a Ship, with much other fine work in the 
 fame piece* Two fair Pillars of Ivory ; good Baffo Re- 
 lievo in Ivory 5 a fair Cranium or Deaths- bead 9 and much 
 other variety of Ivory work. A Pifture in Oyl of Ga- 
 nimede , by Corregio . 
 
 In the third, 
 
 A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert 
 Dureri great Variety of Watches and Clock -vcor\ in Sil- 
 ver : a fine Centaur in silver , which is a curious Watch . 
 
 In the fourth. 
 
 More Watches and Clock-work ; a gallant Ship oi Silver, 
 a Triumphal Chariot, a Turk riding apd attended, a Globe 
 and a Sphere in Silver , a curious Landslip in Oyl by Cor - 
 regio, a Cupid by the fame hand, with a fine Copy of it. 
 
 In the fifth, 
 
 A curious Filigrane Handkerchief , and two fair File* 
 graneVlatesbxox\$ti.outofSpainby the Emprels Mar- 
 garita 3 an Indian Basket of an Indian fort of Filegram 
 mixed with Birds > a Bafon of Agate finely wrought with 
 filver Craw fifhes in it. 
 
 t To 
 
( 97 ) 
 to-tfee fixth, 
 
 Is contained a ftrange Collection of Intaglie and old Ro- 
 man Stones , admirable for their work and Jargenefs. A 
 large Agate whereon is wrought theHiftory of that Victory 
 which Augufius Gafar obtained over the Dalmatians and 
 Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord ; about five 
 inches long, and four broad, highly valued. 
 
 An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia. 
 
 A Shell with a Battel carved in it. 
 
 A Chain with the Heads of all the Aafirian Family. 
 
 A Dog in a very large Sardonyx, 
 
 In the feventb, 
 
 A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head 
 of Maxi mill anus the Firft in Plaijler, with a lock of his 
 own Hair. Mother of Pear I m many fbapes. Fine Baf 
 kets, and the twelve Cm far's Heads. 
 
 In the eighth, moft of Chryfial, 
 
 A noble Veffel about a yard and half high, made out 
 of one piece of Chryfial , An Urne. The Head of the 
 Emprefs. A fair Dragon ♦ The Head of the Queen- 
 Mother of France. A Chryfial in which the Picture of 
 our Saviour may be feen thrice one way, and once another 
 way* 
 
 The ninth of Chryfial alfo, 
 
 A noble Eveer- A fair Veffel of very clear Chryfial , 
 lately bought. A large Head. Fair Crofjes, and other 
 Varieties. 
 
 The tenth of Gold and precious Stones. 
 
 Five Crowns. The Imperial Crown ; rich in Jewels , 
 and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top* A Model of 
 that Crown with which the Emperour is crowned , much 
 
 O richer 
 
( 9 8) 
 
 richer than the Original* A “Paragon Diamond of feven- 
 teen Carats and a half Very large Rubies. A Scepter of 
 Unicorns horn , fet with rich Stones. A of the 
 
 greateft Diamonds. A magnificent Scefter , Globe y Crofl, 
 and Crown, which coft feven hundred thoufand Crowns. 
 An O^/ bigger than my hand, as it was take*! out of the 
 Mine ; and many other fair Opals , A very large Emerald 
 A S^//> in an Emerald . A fair Ring-Dial. 
 
 The eleventh of G^. 
 
 A noble £4^# ufed at the Baptifm of the Aujlrian Fa* 
 mily . Scepters, Scimeters y Knives, and other rich Pr*- 
 fents ham the Turfa Three rich Dog-Collars , fent with 
 three out of England , with this Mark on them 
 DC DC* A large lump of pure Gold, as it was taken out 
 of the Mine, as broad as my hand. A fair piece of Gold 
 Ore , wherein the pure Gold fhooteth upon a white Stone . 
 Divers great Bafons of Gold and Coral. 
 
 In the twelfth* 
 
 Veffels of JaJpis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Gran dies, 
 §ups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapis Nefhriti - 
 ms a and a great one of an methyfi . 
 
 In the thirteenth. 
 
 A large high Veffel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well 
 made out of precious Stones* A Cup of an Hungarian Dia- 
 mond. A piece of Ambergreece as big as a mans head,fent 
 from the Grand Signor* A noble jf afpis-Jlone. A large 
 Stone of Agate on the outfide, and a bed of large J.me~ 
 thyjls .naturally in it in the middle, which is an extra* 
 ordinary andpleafint Rarity, 
 
la the reft, 
 
 Noble Chrysolites , Jacynths , Oriental Granates, Beryls 
 or Aquamarines. The notable rich Smaragdus , or 
 
 or a Cup out of thatSV<?#r. Three great ones ha~ 
 viog been already taken out, valued at three hundred 
 tboufand Crowns, A Picture in Oy/ of the little King 
 Uladijlaus Lokyh, King of Hungary . Tee rich Turkijh 
 Saddles with Furniture for Horfes, fet with fair Turcots 
 Stones 4 A great number of Go/d' fVjj/eZf and fine Figures 
 in Coral, Turkijh Knives, Gauntlets, and Table men of Gold. 
 Delicate Pictures in Wfo#. Very large Bezoar- (tones. In- 
 dian-gold Cards and Counters ♦ A vaft Medal of the £#5?- 
 for ours Arms, weighing two thoufand two hundred D«- 
 otf/, or a thoufand pounds Englijh. A Cup out of Solo- 
 mons Temple . Fair Amber* Rare Inlaying in fTW. 
 
 and other St atm's out of a very high Rhinoceros' s 
 horn. A fine Figure of the Mountain Vefuvius. Jewels 
 with black Feathers given by the Turkifh AmbaJSadours . A 
 notable Figure of a lean Skeleton Priejt , who lived fo 
 four years. A noble Cabinet-clock with large motions. 
 A fair £4/0# and Ewer of carved King Philip the 
 
 Second of Spain in Diamond Armour, fet in Gold . A neat 
 Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman , with this 
 
 JrCtum Annulum negejtato . 
 
 A (wallowed by a Peafant near Prague , which was 
 nine months in his £*<w*I^,and fafely cut out 1 602. The 
 like happened alfo to a perfon in PrimayA which Daniel 
 Becker hath written a peculiar Trad under this Title, De 
 Cultrivoro Pruffiaco. A fair Crucifix of Pearl. Indian 
 Pictures made of Feathers. The King of Sweden , Gufta- 
 vus Adolphus's Buff coat in which he was killed at the Bat- 
 tel of Lvt&en. Till/s Sword. An Angel in Ivory with 
 
 O 2 Hair 
 
(roo) 
 
 Hair and Clothes of Filegrtme of Gold. A neat Crucifix 
 of Wood by Albert us Durer , Two very large Looking- 
 
 glajfes with the Frames of Silver * All the GcJJels writ- 
 ten and painted. Many brave Status's and Figures e- 
 very where. The Head of Charles the Firfr King of Eng- 
 land, in white Marble * A Pedijlalof Amber, over which 
 a Groff. The Head of Sc. Valerius Bifhop of Triers. The 
 Picture of St. Katherine of Sienna , d\ awn by Sigifmund 
 King of Poland. APiftureof the Emperour as hegiveth 
 Audience , to be looked upon through a little round 
 hole. A neat Table of Inlay 9 d Stone made by the prefent 
 Emprefs Dowager Eleonora . A Nail of our Saviour *s 
 
 Groff almoftafoot long; our saviour* s Blood $ and two 
 Thorns of his Crown, the one whiter than the other. Prteffs 
 Garments covered all over with large Pearl . The great 
 and high efteemed Agate Dijh , between three and four 
 fpans Diameter, with X R ISOS naturally in it. Unto 
 which one applied that of St* Luke, Dica vobis quia fi hi 
 tacuerint, lapides clamabunt , 
 
 Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more 
 added, the noble of Pearlof eight yards long, ta- 
 ken from the Graff T}k&ly in the late Hungarian war, as I 
 underftand fince my Return. 
 
 I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna : I walk- 
 ed unto the Hill of Vienna, two Englijh miles diftant from 
 the Town, going up all the way by an eafie Afcent 3 from 
 whence I had a profpeftof the City 5 and the Campagnia 
 about ir, together with the high Mountains in Steirmark 
 covered with Snow : and in my return faw the Palace of 
 theEuiprefs Dowager without the Town, called la Favo- 
 rita , and palled by the Convent of the Paulint. 
 
 About two Englijh miles Eaftward from Vienna , there 
 is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperour, 
 built by Rodolphus the Second, which hath been formerly 
 
 well 
 
(roi) 
 
 well furnifhed, and provided with Plants, but now feems 
 to be neglefled, and fomewhat ruinous. It confifieth of 
 an inward and an outward fquare Garden : The inward is 
 two hundred ordinary paces fquare, aboutthefame big- 
 nefs with the Place Royal at Paris i It hath a Portico or 
 Cloyjler , fupported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on 
 each fide, and is covered with Copper $ as are alio the 
 Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. 
 Befides this, there is ah handfome row of Buildings well 
 feated, called ItieW’gabm , in which at ptefent are many 
 wild Beads kept. Lions aod Tig^es b;eed here, and 
 have y oungones* Some fay this was the place of Solymm 
 the Magnificents Tent when he befieged Vienna* 
 
 There isalfo, about two or three miles from Vienna^ 
 a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols , much frequen- 
 ted, efpecially in Lent, divers carrying Croffes very 
 heavy all the way upon their fhoulders. There is here a 
 httleHoufe built exaftly after that of the Sepulchre at 
 Jerufaiem$ and alfoa handfome Copy of the Pidure of 
 our Saviour and the V irgin Mary, with their exad heights 
 That of our Saviour is about two yards high j that of the 
 blefTed Virgin three or four fingers breadth lower : Thefe 
 are taken from the Original in St.Johnde Lateran at Rome. 
 Hither the Emprefs defired to go one morning from her 
 own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which fhe perform- 
 ed, though with a great deal of difficulty , fhe being not 
 ufed to walk , and the way was dufty. The Emperour 
 accompanied her, and all the Court followed on foot r 
 which made a handfome fhew. 
 
 Nearer unto Vienna there is alfo a remarkable place for 
 Devotion, called Itzing: and in the way from Vienna 
 unto it, the twelve Stai ions of theCrofsare marked cut 
 in imitation of what isobferved near Jerufalem , in the 
 VkCrmSj ovDolorofa , in our Saviours proceeding from 
 
 the 
 
( 102 ) 
 
 the Gity unto Mount Calvary \ the Figures thereof are 
 printed, and the feveral paces between every Station fet 
 down. The Emperour hath a handfome Park near Vien- 
 na, called th zBrater, wherein I beheld theeffefis of the 
 great Lightning and Thunder which happened three 
 daysbefore, upon many great Trees which were torn , 
 fplic, or twifted. There is a Houfe of Pleafure in it, 
 where among other things, I could not but take notice of 
 a Mufical Inftrument which I had not feen before , a sea 
 or Chepdrum 5 it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet? 
 but fouodeth like a Kettle-drum , 
 
 I wentalfo unto haxambourg, whither the Emperour 
 often retired} ; he hath a Houfe in this place, but it is 
 old, and not large. There is alfo a Houfe of Pleafure in 
 the Mote.into which there is no ocher pafTage but through 
 a high Corridor e. The Caftle is commodioufly feated for 
 the Emperours recreation ; and there is an eight-fquare 
 Houfe in the Marjb , from which the Nobility and the 
 Emprefs Dowager fometimes ufed to Choot,Che being very 
 expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperours Houfe 
 hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no 
 better account, then they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a 
 heathen- maid. They feemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant 
 But many things that areold or obfcure, they call, in this 
 Country, Heathen:asi?o?w 4 ^Coyns, they call Heathen mony. 
 And the Peafants brought me , in a place which had been 
 formerly an old Roman Station, part of the bit of a Bridle 
 digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key, 
 From hence I went unto Maanerfdorjf , feated not far 
 from the River Leyta, where there is a natural^ Bath , 
 called th etvildekath] it arifeth under a Church, the Church 
 being built over the Spring-head. The water of it is 
 but Lukewarm, and therefore when they defire it hotter, 
 they boy 1 it, and fo bathe in Tubs in a large room. 
 
 From 
 
(log) 
 
 From that Subftance which fticketh to the fides of tffe 
 Coppers-in the boy ling- of it, they judge it to be impreg- 
 nated with S'uifhur , Saltpeter , and Chalk. The water 
 colours the (tones, and makes them look, when wet, like 
 fine Turquiifes. And the vapour of the Bath hanging up- 
 on the Mofs on the Tides, gives it an Amber or Gold co* 
 lour. The Phyficiansof Victim have given a good ac- 
 count concerning the ufe of thefe Baths in High-dutch. 
 Mot far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone , out of 
 which a great part of Vienna is built. The Stones being 
 large they cut and fquare them at the Quarry. 
 
 From hence 1 proceeded to the Netvjidler-fea or Lake,, 
 fo called from Newfidle, which is a Town feared upon the 
 Northern part of it, confiding of one fireet and foroe 
 back=houfes,andafmaH, fquare, old Caftle upon a Hill, 
 from whence I had a good propped; over the Lake. 1 1 is 
 about three German miles broad, and feven miles long. 
 The faired Lake in thefe parts, affording plenty of Fifh ; 
 encompaffed and thickly fet about with fmall Towns and 
 Villages; and hath no River, at lead not confiderable , 
 running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of 
 Nervjidle they dig out a black earth, out of which they 
 make Salt peter. In this Journey, not far from Himburg , 
 we paffed by a place called Raudyeard, which, though ic 
 ' feems not high, looks over a great pare of Juftria. and 
 as far as Erin, thefecond City of Moravia , a part alfo 
 of the Kingdom of Bohemia, and a part of the Kingdom of 
 Hungaria. I went afterwards four English miles up the 
 Stream of the Danube , to fee a noted Quarry of Stone in 
 a Hill called Jltenburg. The beds, rows , or cafes of 
 the Stones lye not horizontally , but rather elevated 
 Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are 
 not always fo regularly placed, but rather follow the 
 Ihape of the Hill , and according to that are differently 
 
 fit uated. 
 
(i°4) 
 
 fituated. Here I alfo obferved a Subftance between a 
 Clay and a Stone called Leberjlein, or Liverftone ; and 
 upon many of thefe Stones I found the figures of Trees 
 and Leaves 5 though not fo deep or neat as upon the Stones 
 by Florence ; yet very prettily marked, and often with 
 broader Leaves than l had elfewhere obferved. I pafTed 
 forward to Clofter-Neuburg y a Town mod of it belonging 
 to that notable rich Monastery feared here, founded by 
 St* Leopoldus Marquefs of Aujlria,and fince much enriched 
 by fucceeding Donations* 
 
 Matthaus Merian hath a goodcut oftheProfpeft of the 
 Danube here abouts, and in what manner it paffetfc down- 
 wards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Bifn- 
 burg. Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Carnal- 
 dulenfes , of an Order the mod fevere of any, living mod 
 upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermites, Near 
 their Cells they had paved the ground with thole Stones 
 I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the Chapes 
 of Trees and Plants. 
 
 After an open Autumn there followed a flharp Winter 
 at Vienna , in the months of December and January. The 
 branches of the Danube were foon frozen over.The main 
 Stream, by reafon of itsfvvift Currenr,held out longer,but 
 was afterwards alfo frozen. Some have thought that this 
 River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of 
 Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen ; 
 but I could not make any regular Obfervation thereof. 
 This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow, 
 afforded handfbme Recreations untomen, andfome unto 
 the Ladies, in running Courfes in handfome Sleds and 
 Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived 
 in the Chape of Gryphins , ligers , Swans , Scallop Shells , 
 Dolphins , Peacocks, and the like Guriofities, carved, paint- 
 ed, and gilded. The Lady fits in one of thefe, richly ha- 
 bited 
 
bited in Velvet, lined with rich Furrs, fet off with Lace 
 and Jewels, in a Velvet Gap lined with Sables. The Sled 
 is drawn by a Horfe, dreffedupwith Feathers of all co- 
 lours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns 
 behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments : one or 
 more Pages ride by on Horfe-back with Torches in their 
 hands. And after this manner they perform their Courfe 
 upon the frozen Snow about the /free is of Vienna, in the 
 night, with good fpeed one after another. A Gentleman 
 fits behind the Lady and guides the Horfe. But the Froft 
 breaking up put an end to thefe Recreations. The Froft 
 began and ended here the fame day that it began and end- 
 ed in England. 
 
 The Feftivity of chriflmas was obferved much after the 
 fame Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in Italy, 
 On Chrifimai-day the Emperour dined publickly, attend- 
 ed with many Nobles and great Perfons, and three re- 
 markable low Dwarfs. Upon St. Stephens-day he went 
 to the Cathedral of Sf. Stephen , and went up to the Altar, 
 kneeled, and kiffed the Plate whereon the Hoftia had lain. 
 At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide, the old cuftome of choo- 
 fing King and Queen was obferved at Court.Count Lejley 
 happened to be King, the Emperour laid the Cloath , 
 and the Emprefs filled out Wine, together with other old 
 Cuftomes. 
 
 Before chrifimaa there was extraordinary mirth and 
 jollity at the Court upon occafion of a Marriage: For 
 Count Seratt, Governour of Gratz in Styria, married a 
 natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth , King of Spain , 
 which was obferved with many noble Solemnities and 
 Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were fo fub- 
 ftantially fplendid, that I was much furprifed there- 
 at. 
 
 P 
 
 This 
 
(io6) 
 
 This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the 
 Count of Draun , who was Colonel of the Forces in 
 Vienna, and who had one of the nobleft Houfes in the 
 City; his Corps was brought out of Italy, and interred 
 in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a 
 very fair Altar, there was raifed for him a Cajlrum Do- 
 Uric, handfomely contrived and fee round with white 
 Wax Torches and Candles. 
 
 While I was in Vienna, the Emprefs Margarita was 
 delivered of a Daughter , which was Chriftned by the 
 Name of Maria , Antonina, Jofcfha, Benedict a, Rofalia , 
 Petronella, but fire lived not many months. When the 
 Emprefs came abroad, fhe brought the Child to the Au- 
 gufiines Church, where Cardinal Carlo Carajfa, the Pope’s 
 Nuncio, received it, blefled it, and laid it upon the 
 Altar. 
 
 During my flay here, the El eft ion was in readinefs for 
 a King of Poland, after the voluntary refignat ion of that 
 Crown by King Cafimir ; and Couriers often paffed be- 
 tween that Country and this. There were Competitors 
 the Czar of Muscovy % Son, the Duke of Newburg , and 
 the Prince of Lorrain. The French moved aftively for the 
 Duke of Newburg , the Emperour for the Prince of 
 Lorrain, w ho was then at Vienna, in great favour with 
 the Emperomv who greatly promoted his intereft j a 
 Perfon of great efleem, and who, if General Luhomirski 
 had been living, who was his intimate Friend, in all pro- 
 bability might have obtained theCrown > and thereupon 
 it was conceived that he fhould have married the Emper- 
 our’s Sifter. Bat the Poles made choice of one of their 
 own Country, who was no Competitor, Michael Wifnt - 
 mtski lately deceafed 3 who alfo married the Siller of 
 she Emperour.: 
 
 When 
 
(io7) 
 
 When I was here, there were many AmbafFadours of 
 Note, Don Balthafar dela Cueva, Marquifs of Malagon , 
 and brother to the Viceroy of Naples, was Ambaffadour 
 for Spain. Cardinal Carlo Caraffa was the Pope’s Nuncio* 
 The Venetian Ambaffadour Extraordinary, foliciced for 
 affi (lance for Candia, and he obtained the Regiment of 
 Portia under Marquifs Pio. Count Souches the younger^, 
 who was Governour of Leopoldjladtj and many noble and 
 valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition, 
 The Turks gave affurance of the Grand Signor's intention 
 to maintain the Peace inviolably 5 and requefted the Em- 
 perour not to a (Tift the Venetians or Tranfilvanims s nor 
 to promote, but rather hinder, the Election of the Em- 
 perour of Mufcovy $ Son to the Crown of Poland* The 
 Eifhopof Beziers, fentby theKingof France to the E~ 
 le&ion of theKingof Poland, came not hither, but paf- 
 fed through Nurtnbnrg, where I lodged at the fame Inn; 
 They were generally here againft the French Imereft, and 
 fo were a great part of the Polijh Nobility, An Ambaffa- 
 dour came alfo from the cham of Tartary* to confirm a 
 Peace, and afford mutual Affiftanee upon occafion. Cha 
 Gagi Aga was the Ambaffadour , who brought a Prefent 
 of the beft Tartarian Horfes , which are of high efleem 
 forfwiftnefs, hardinefs, boldnefs in palling frozen Ri- 
 vers, and taking and fwimming over great Streams. He 
 was difmiffed with noble Prefents of Platec The Em* 
 perour prefented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver 
 Bafon and Ewer, and a curious Watch \ and fent Prefents 
 nnto the Chammine his Wife, 5 and alfo to his Sifter and 
 four Brothers, His Followers were flout men , of good 
 ftature, courfe Complexions, wearing long furr’d Veils 
 and Cal pack’s, or furr’d Caps. Some of them bad filver 
 Rings with the fame Signatures of the Turkish Seales. 
 They took much Tobacco in very long Pipes, Their 
 
 P 2 Tobacco 
 
08 ) 
 
 Tobacco is not in Rolls, but in Leaves, and dry* They 
 went about wandring and gazing at moft things, as Chur- 
 ches, Houfes, Shops: And took much delight to be in 
 the Fair, where they would take much notice of fmall 
 trifles. Yet thefe are the men that make fuch fad Incur- 
 fions into the Eaflern parts of Europe, and carrying away 
 fo many thoufands, fell them to the Turks, and forepair 
 the defeft of People in Turky . And now after the Con- 
 fumption of men in Confiant'wople , and the Country about 
 by the Plague, are like to be adive in that Trade, ho- 
 ping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and De- 
 predations. 
 
 There are divers Greeks who trade to Vienna, and ma- 
 ny live in the Town, among which I met with three con- 
 fiderable perfons. One a grave Abbot, who was forced 
 from his Convent by the Turk , upon fufpicion that he cor* 
 refponded with thofeof Candia. Another who went by 
 the name of Ccnftantinus Catacuzenos , and was of the 
 Blood Royal of the Catacuzeni . The third was Jeremi* 
 asu GreekYntCt, who had travelled through Italy and 
 France into England, and from thence through the Low- 
 Countries and Germany to Vienna , and intended for Con* 
 Jlantincple .. He came into England to enquire after a 
 young man who was in a Ship which was firft taken by an 
 jllgerine, and afterwards by an Englijh man of war in the 
 Levant . He was very kindly ufed in England , and particu- 
 larly at Cambridge. He did a great deal of honour at 
 Vienna unto the Englijb Nation* declaring that they were 
 the moftcivi.1, generous* and learned people he had met 
 with in all his Travels, and that he no where found fo 
 many who could fpeak or underfland Greek, or who 
 gave him Co good fatisfaflion in all parrs of Knowledge ; 
 And as a teflimony of his refpeft and gratitude, requeued 
 asetoencloieaGr^Letter unto Dr. Pierfin, now Lord 
 
 Bifliop 
 
(ro?) 
 
 Biflicfp of chejler, and Dr. Barrow, now Matter of Tri- 
 nity Colledge \\\C>imbridge. 
 
 Moft men live here plentifully , there being abundance 
 of all provifion. They have great quantity of Corn , 
 which upon Scarcity , by the help of the Danube, might 
 be brought unto them from remoter parts. The Country 
 affordeth fuch plenty of wine, that they fend a confide- 
 rable quantity up the River. They have alfo rich wines 
 out of Hungary and Italy, and fuch variety, that there are 
 more than thirty fevera! fortsof Wine to be fold in Vien~ 
 na . They are not alfo without good Beer* Hal/ladt in 
 Jujiru affordeth them Salt, where they makeit by letting 
 in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain , where it 
 drioketh in the Saltof the Earth, and is afterwards let 
 out and boiled up. This affordeth great profit to the 
 Emperor, and therefore the Hungarian Salt isnot permit- 
 ted to be brought higher than Prefburg. They have al fo 
 plenty of Sheep and Oxen 5 but for Oxen at prefent they 
 are alfo fupplied from Hungary , nor only from the Coun- 
 tries in the Emperours Dominions, but from the Turkifli 
 parrs, by permifiionof the Grand Signor ; and they are 
 brought hither by the Eaftern Company of Vienna. They 
 eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is delicious, like 
 that of Venifon with us* They want not Hares, Rab- 
 bets, Partridges, Pheafants. A Fowl called Hafenhendal, 
 
 or Gallina Cory Jorum, is much efteemed by them, which 
 made me the more wonder to meet with fomeodde diflies 
 at their Tables $ as Gmny-pigs, divers forts of Snails , 
 and T ortoifes. 
 
 The Danube , and many Rivers which run into it, afford 
 them plenty of Fifh, extraordinary Carps, Trouts , Ten- 
 ches , Pikes, Eels, feveral forts of Lampries , and many 
 Fiflies finely coloured ; the white Fifli , Crevifes very 
 large 1 the beft come out of the River Smchet , net far 
 
 from 
 
(no) 
 
 from Vienna They have alfo that fubftantial large fifii, 
 called a Scbeiden, or Silurw Gefneri , larger than Pike , 
 Salmon, or any of our River Fifties ; but the great Fifties 
 called Haufons, or Hufones , in Johnftonus , for Jargenefs ex- 
 ceed all others ; fome being twenty foot long. Some 
 think this to be the fame Fifli which (Lilian naraeth An- 
 facets#, and fpeaketh largely of the fifliing for them in 
 IJler. I was at the fifhing places for Haufons in Schtit 
 Ifland, between Prefburg and Konsara, for they come 
 not ufually higher, efpecially in fhoals; and it is much 
 that they come fo high, for they are conceived to come 
 out of the Buxine- fea, and fo up the ftream. They eat 
 them both frefli and falted ; they tafte moft like Sturgeon . 
 It is a Gartilagineous Fifli , confifting of griftles, and 
 they have a hollow nervous chord all down the back , 
 which being dried ferveth for a whip. When they fifli 
 for them they blow a Horn or Trumpet, and know where 
 they go by the moving of the water* From Venice they 
 are fupplied with Oyfters, with fait Sturgeon , and fome- 
 tirnes with red Herrings , and great variety of other Fiflhes 
 pickled up: as alfo with Oranges, Limons , and other 
 Fruits. Obferving much freedom, mufick, and jollity in 
 the City. I wondered how they could content them- 
 felves without Plays, for there were few while I was 
 there, till the Players came hither out of Saxony, and a- 
 ded here for a time. The Jefuites would fometimes en- 
 tertain the EmperourandEmprefs with a Comedy at their 
 Colledge ; and I had once the favour to be at one when 
 they wereprefent* 
 
 But they have Dancing and Fencing often , and every 
 Holy day after dinner, the people flock to fome Inns where 
 there is Dancing in the inward Rooms , and Fencing and 
 Playing of Prizes upon a Stage in the Yard ; and at the 
 Windows, or from the Galleries, behold the Fencers 
 
 playing 
 
Rutten. out of die Danube 
 
 Groridel 
 
 I-OkicrTr- 
 
.... ■' -V 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 . 
 
(Ill) 
 
 playing at federal Weapons ; and commonly pals the reft 
 of the day in delights and merry Company. 
 
 In Treafon and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand 
 of the Malefaftor, and his Head immediately after. I faw 
 a Woman beheaded fitting in a Chair, the Executioner 
 ftriking off her Head with a Fore-blow, fhe behaved her 
 felf well, and was accompanied unto the Market place 
 by the Confraternity of the Dead . , who have a charitable 
 care of fuch Perfons, and are not of any Religions Order, 
 but Lay men, among whom alfo in this place there are 
 many Fraternities and Orders ; as of the Holy Virgin , of 
 th eHoly Crofs and others. Another perfon alfo executed 
 after the fame manner ; as foon as his Head fell to the 
 ground, while the Body was in the Chair, a man ran 
 fpeedily with a Pot in his hand, and filling it with the 
 Blood yet fpoutingout of his Neck, he prefently drank 
 it off, and ran away ; and this he did as a Remedy againft 
 the falling Sieknifs. I have read of fome who have ap- 
 proved the fame Med icine; and heard of others who have 
 done the like in Germany. And Celftu takes notice , that 
 in his time fome Epileptical perfons did drink the Blood 
 of the Gladiatours. But many Phyficians have, in all 
 times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I ftay after- 
 wards fo long as to know the effefl thereof, as to the in- 
 tended cure. But moft men looked upon it as of great 
 uncertainty: and of all men the Jews, who fuffer no 
 Blood to come into their Lips 3 muft moft diflike ie. 
 
 At Prefburg they have a ftrange way of Execution, ft i ll 
 ufed at Metz, and fome other places, by a Maid, or En- 
 gine like a Maid finely drefled up with her hands before 
 her. The Malefaflor falutes her firft, and then retireth„ 
 But at his fecond falute flhe openeth her hands and cuts his 
 Mean in funded 
 
( 112 ) 
 
 Though the Winter was fharp , yet the advantage of 
 Stoves, and lying between two Feather-beds, made it 
 tolerable: For they ufe Stoves here as in other parts of 
 Germany, where they lodge and eat in Stoves $ and great 
 Perfons have Stoves in the Church, or fuch as look into 
 the Church. There are Stoves alfo in the publick 
 Schools where Leflures are read. And this way of ly- 
 ing between two Feather-beds , with a neat laced fheet 
 fpreadover, is more convenient in a cold Country, than 
 moft others they make ufe of. For in the common Inns in 
 Germany they generally fleep upon Straw, and alfo in 
 Hungary almoft every where \ and more Eafterly upon 
 the ground, fpreading a Carpet or Saddletcloath under 
 them : and more Northerly they content themfelves with 
 the Skins of Beads, Bears , Elks, or the like ; upon which 
 they deep in the night. Thofe that fleep lowed are cool eft 
 in a Stove ; thofe that lye upon Tables, Benches , or 
 higher, are moreexpofed to the heat. The Citizens of 
 Vienna are well attired , and ufe Furs very much. The 
 Women wear a high Velvet Bonner, lined or faced there- 
 with. The Place feemed to be healthful 3 but they fpeak 
 much of the Colica jiuJlriaca, as an Endemial and Local 
 Difeafe, very hardly yielding unto good Medicines. They 
 fpeak good German at the Court and in the City ; but the 
 Common and Country people feemed to fpeak grumb- 
 Jingly , and befides their accent, have divers words 
 different from other parts. 
 
 They have a Cuftome upon St. Nicholas-day to put fotue 
 fmall Gift into the Childrens fhoes ; among other things 
 they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flower 
 gilded and filvered over, yet fcarce worth a penny. They 
 fell Trochies or tablets in the Markets , made of the pul pe 
 of the Fruit of Hip-briar, made (harp with Spirit of SW- 
 fbur^exy refrefliing. Some carry about them a Thunder* 
 
(”5) 
 
 Jlone, as a defence againft Thunder;and they rub their Chil- 
 drens Gums with a Wolfs tooth inftead of Cent, 
 
 When I was at Venice in the rime of the Carnival^ I oh- 
 ferved many Recreations and Shews , as Rope-dancing , 
 flying down the Rope, cutting off Bulis-necks with 
 Swords, and many other. But at Vienna a notable trick 
 which I faw there pleated me much : A man of a middle 
 Stature laid down upon his back, and a heavy Anvil was 
 placed upon his Breaft, as much as two men could well 
 lift, then two other men with great Hammers laid on, un- 
 til they had given almoft an hundred biow$ 5 and cut in' fun- 
 der a great Horfhoeof iron, about half an inch thick. 
 
 Here is no Cbriftian Religion publickiy permitted but 
 the Roman, and therefore thofeof the Protejlant and Re - 
 formed Religion are fain to refort unro Prefburg , Forty 
 miles off, for which they have feme convenience by the 
 Danube 3 and a Coach which goeth every day. In the time 
 of Maximilian the Second, they were permitted the Ex- 
 ercifeof their Religion in the Church of the Holy Crofs , 
 in the City of Vienna . But afterwards were prohibited 
 by Rodolphus the Second. The Emperour Matthias gave 
 them permiflion to meet a tHernals, a little more than an 
 Engltfb mile from Vienna \ and gave leave to their Mini* 
 Jiers to come into the City, and there to chriften , marry , 
 baptize , and vifit the fick* From which time they encrea- 
 
 fed very much, till Ferdinand the Second,re turning from 
 the Battel of Prague, banifhed their Minijler from Vi- 
 enna wd Arnols^ fent the Freyherr forger, to whom the 
 Caftle of Arnolds belonged , Prifoner unto Lintz ; and 
 never gave over till he had taken away their Priviledges 
 and Freedom of meeting publickiy in any part of lower 
 Auffria. 
 
 But here are no fmall number of Jews, who have a di- 
 ftinft Habitation afligned them over the Water- They have 
 
 alfo 
 
(ll 4 ) 
 
 alfo a Street allowed them in the City for the day time, 
 but they mufi: all depart at night beyond the River into 
 the Suburbs. 
 
 They are much diftafted by the Citizens and Trades- 
 men, and the Scholars agree but ill with them. While I 
 was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an 
 high degree* For the Scholars afiaulted the Jews Town, 
 bear, wounded, and threw divers of them into the Ri- 
 ver. Divers Scholars were wounded, feme killed, and 
 alfo feme Souldiers w ho were commanded out to coma 
 pofe the Fray : and the Jews Town was guarded many 
 days by the Souldiersof the City. This begot fuch ill 
 Blood and Complaints^ that a good number of the Jews 
 were to be banifhed ata certain day. The Jews, to in- 
 gratiate with the Emprefs, then with Child, prefented her 
 with a noble silver Cradle , but file would not receive it s 
 And there was great danger of the general banifiimentof 
 them when I left that City , which w 7 as afterwards effe- 
 cted, they being feverely prohibited from living, not on- 
 ly at Vienna , but in any part of Jujlria , where there 
 were formerly whole Villages of them, fo as they were 
 forced to betake themfelves into the Dominions of the 
 Turk, unto Venice, into Poland and Bohemia . They be- 
 ing not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of 
 Hungary fubjeft to the Emperour, Styria , or Carinthia. 
 
 I muftconfefs they feemed ufeful unto cheplacefor rea- 
 dy accommodation of any thing, either by fale or ex- 
 change, but the people looked with an evil eye upon 
 them, as taking away much of their Trade and Employ- 
 ment. They alfo looked upon them as ufelefs in w ar for 
 defence of the place ; and were not without fome jealou- 
 fie that they held correfpondence with the TW\^,and gave 
 Intelligence of their Affairs unto them. Yet the Souldiery 
 much with them , and Captains for the fuddain ha- 
 6 ” ° biting, 
 
(”S) 
 
 biting, furnifliing, and accommodating of their Compa- 
 nies. And dining one day with a Commander at a Jews 
 Houfe , amongft other Difcourfe I asked the Jew con- 
 cerning the ten Iribes , and where they were f He faid 
 they were far off in Alia, beyond a great hake which was 
 continually ft or my, and fcarce faff able, but upon their Sab- 
 bath-day, upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel* 
 I have feen their Circumcifion at Rome, Padua, and o- 
 ther parts ? Their Phyficians ordinarijy profefs great 
 skill in Urines ; and the common people refort unto them 
 rather than unto Chriftians , and are fo credulous , and 
 have fuch an opinion of them, that they might be made to 
 believe they have fame qld Receipts of King Solomon f 
 There are many Jews in Italy ^ yet they feem tome to 
 be in greater numbers in Germany . In Amfterdam they 
 are alfo grown very numerous* At Franckfurt they told 
 
 me there were feven thoufand of them, which feemed fcarce 
 credible. At Golfn they are in great numbers I at Ham- 
 burg no$ a few. But the greateft number furely is in 
 Prague, 
 
 Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet di- 
 vers ChriftUn Princes and States have affigned them fome 
 mark in their Habits , to difHnguifh them. In Avignon 
 their Hats are yellow . In Italy their Hats are covered o® 
 verwithl affate. foiGermany they wear Ruffs and Gowns 
 with great Gapes, In Holland I obferved no diftin&ion. 
 But the Jews there , moft of them having come out of 
 Portugal , there may be fome fufpicion of them from their 
 Complexion. 
 
 Laft'y, when I confider the old ftrength of Vienna^ 
 CCnfifting in an old wall and a deep ditch , I cannot much 
 wonder that^J Matthias Corvimts , King of Hungary, took 
 this City. And 1 muft afcribe it 3 under God, unto the 
 Angular valour and refolution of the Defendants , that 
 
 Q^2 Solymm 
 
(U6) 
 
 Solfmn the Magnificent, with two hundred thoufand men, 
 was not able to take it , and though he made large brea- 
 ches, could never enter it, but loft fome thoufands at an 
 Aflault, and departed at lad with the lofs of a great part 
 of his Army. But this place is now in a far better con- 
 dition, ftrongly fortified, and able to refift the greateft 
 Forces of Turky. The houjes are cleared from the wall ; 
 and yet for better fecurity, when I was there, Count 
 Soutbes advifed theEmperour to pull down part of the 
 Suburbs upon the other fide of the neareft branch of the 
 Danube , left the Turks mighttake advantage to play up- 
 on the two Bajlions on that fide. 
 
 It would be a fad lofs for Cbrijiendome if this place 
 were in the hands of the Turk $ and no man knows where 
 he would reft. If hefliould begin with this place , and 
 take it, the ftrong holds of Rab, Komar a, and Leopold- 
 Jjladt would want their fupport,and foon fall into his pof- 
 feflion ; and if he were Lord of ,/iujlria , a great part of 
 Germany would lye bare unto himrand probably it would 
 not be long before he vifited Italy, into which Country he 
 would then find other ways than by Raima nova. 
 
 / 
 
 A 
 
V t 
 
 A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 F R O M' 
 
 VIENNA 
 
 1 N. 
 
 AUSTRIA 
 
 T O 
 
 A king a farewel of the Imperial City 
 of Vienna, 1 ordered my Jeurney for 
 Prague in Behetnia, which is ufually 
 fix days Journey by Goach imthe 
 Summer, and eight in the Winter. I 
 went over the great Bridge of Vien- 
 na , upon the large Stream of the 
 Danube , palling by the Chappel of 
 St. Bridget a of an eight-fquare Figure. This Bridge is a 
 
 very. 
 
(nS) 
 
 very great and maffy work, fupported by many high 
 Trees, and Timber % and hath between two and three thou- 
 fand Treeshid upon it crofs, or fide by fide, from one 
 fide of the Bridge to the other, for the pafTage over it, af- 
 ter the German manner of making Bridges ♦ At Ratifbqpe 
 there is a handfome Stone-bridge over the Danube , zfod 
 between chat place and Vienna , divers of Wood ; but from 
 Vienna to Belgrade I obferved none but what were made 
 with Boats. 
 
 Having palled the River , I entred into the TranJ- 
 Danubian Auftria , or that part of Aujlria which lierh 
 between the Danube and the River They a , and came unco 
 Corneuburgs a pretty Town, about which place the Em- 
 perour often hunteth ; it is near the Hill Bifneberg, w^hich 
 is oppofite unto Kalenberg* The Swdes advanced far 
 
 when they took this place in the laft wars, and held k fo 
 well, that they were not eafily forced out of it. From 
 thence I came to Stockerau , near the mouth of the River 
 Mida , whereit runneth into the Danube. A place much 
 noted for the death of St. Colman a Scotch Saint, highly 
 honoured in thefe garts v From thence; to Gunterfdorff , 
 foto Colne dor ff oelhldkffi whicialthbughit be on the 
 South of the Rivef2$y% is accointed the fifrft Village 
 of Moravia , and then came unto Znaim. 
 
 In all this part of Auftria, which extendeth a great 
 length on the North-fide of the Danube , conceived to 
 have been anciently inhabited by the Marcomanni and 
 ^mdi, there are few or mftTmps of antiquity , large- 
 neft) or note } for the Romans made their Stations and 
 Colonies upon the South-fide of the Danube p but the 
 Country is full of Villages, and populous. One of the 
 chiefefi Towns is frembs, which fome call Cremona Au - 
 ftri# } chichi fa y? as I the Danube. A great 
 
 5 •' Pr\ 
 
C”9) 
 
 ed by she Swedes. The Soy l is light , and eafie to be 
 ploughed. 
 
 Zndm is a handfome place, with many painted Houfes 
 in if, and accounted the fourth chkflWn in Mah'rm^ 
 or oravia\ Olmtitsb, Brntt} and lglm> being the other 
 three, famous for the death of the Emperour Sigtf- 
 mund . It isfeatedby the River Theya, which divideth 
 
 Moravia from Aujiria, and running at laft into the River 
 Mark^y affbrdeth accommodation of pafTage into the Da- 
 nube* 
 
 From thence we pafled by Ulvershyrkeny PanlitZy and 
 Moravia n Budweiffe to Zimmaw 3 and by Byrnitz came 
 to Igla , or \glau, upon the River Igla , which at laft run* 
 neth into the great River March , a very pleafant place, 
 feated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of Bohemia* It is 
 well fortified a U modern*, upon one fide, and hath one 
 of the largeft Piazza's that I have feen- 
 
 Moravia , is a pleafant and fruitful Country affording 
 plenty of neceflaries for life; the people are plain^dealing, 
 flout, and make good Souldiers. It is cbmmodioufly 
 furnifhed with Rivers, the greateft whereof is the Mora 
 ox^Marck, which arifing in the Northern part thereof, 
 runneth quite through the Country, and entreth the Do- 
 novo not far from Prejburg . The other confiderable 
 Streams are the They* oxThaifa } the Svearta, the Schmtta^ 
 which rbn into the Afarc^ In the laft Turkjfh wars the 
 Tartars having paflfed the Wag in Hungarian made incurfi* 
 ons into Moravia , and carried away fome thoufands of 
 the Inhabitants. 
 
 Leaving Igla, we fodn came into Bohemia, firft cotnibg 
 into stecketf, then to Teutchin hrodaby the River Sac* 
 zua, formerly a ftrdng place, taken by Zifia the famous 
 Bohemian General y who then forced the Emperour Sigifi 
 "mmd to fly put of Bohemia by the way of 'iglfa From 
 * ’ nnrsn ' ~ " thence 
 
(I20) 
 
 thence we came to Haberne , and fo to Jfanikaw : At this 
 place, upon the 24 tb of February , 1643. was fought that 
 memorable Battel between the Swedes , commanded by 
 Leonard Torjlenfon > and the Imperialifls under Count 
 Hatzfield, Goetz, and other Commanders. The Impefi- 
 alifts had the better at firft ; but fallingupon the Enemies 
 Baggage, and being too greedy of Booty, they were de- 
 feated, three thoufandflain, four tboufand taken prifon- 
 ners, with their Gen tx^Batzfield^ and fix or feven Colo- 
 nels. The fuccefs hereof gave the Swedes advantage to 
 proceed further , and into Silejia and Auftria. In this 
 Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schaclitz, 
 which is not far from the Rifgeburg , or Mountain of Gy - 
 ants , about the Head of the River Flbe y I enquired of 
 him concerning the fpirit Ribenfal, which is faid to infeft 
 that Country, but he could fay nothing therein of his 
 own knowledge ; and though he was confident that there 
 was fuch a Spirit, yet he confeffed that for twelve years 
 it had done no hurr* In Hills, Mountains , and places 
 of Mines fuch reports are ordinary. It is reported that 
 a Spirit haunts the Silver Mines of Brunfwtck : And ano- 
 ther to be in the Finn Mine of Slackenwalde \v\ this Coun- 
 try of Bohemia , and to walk in the fhapeofa Monk y who 
 ftrikes the eJ Miners , fings and plays on the Bag-pipes, and 
 doth many fuch Tricks* And AgricoUm the latter end of 
 his Sixth Book De re Metallica , gives this for one reafon 
 why Mines , or pajfages in Mines , are given over. 
 
 From Janikpwl travelled to Czajlaw , a good Town , 
 and the chiefefl in th eCza/lawer Circle: In this place 
 they fay that Zifca was buried, that famous Bohemian Gr- 
 neral ; he loft oneEye&y an Arrow, m>d was at length 
 blind of both, yet gave not over the war, and proved 
 fuccefsful in it. He wifted his Friends to make a Drum 
 
 of his Ski#) which Ihould fcrvc to fright away their E- 
 
 nemies. 
 
(fir) 
 
 nemies. And though he cared not for any Sepulchral 
 Monument, yet he had one in this place. 
 
 From Czijlm we came to Guttenberg, or Cottenberg , 
 about eight Bohemian miles from Prague, every mile be- 
 ing five or fix Englijh miles. A large Town, and much 
 frequented, not far from the River Albis or Elbe, of e- 
 fpecal note for the Silver ^Mines about it.* The Hilts 
 near it are not high , and confequently the Mines are not 
 fodeepasthofeof Hungary, and fome others in Germa* 
 ny \ yet fome are above feventy or eighty Fathoms. They 
 have wrought at thefe Mines feven hundred years, and 
 there are about thirty of them. I went down into that 
 which was firft digged, but afterwards left for a long 
 time, but they work there now again , it is called the Got- 
 otAufder Gotten, upon the Gotten , or Coat- hill', and 
 as the Story goetb, a Monk walking over this Hill found 
 a kind of a Silver tree flicking to his Garment, which 
 was the occafion that they afterwards digged and built 
 thefe Mines, and the place retains the name of Gotten * 
 berg. 
 
 The Mine into which I defcended near the Town, is 
 but nineteen Fathoms deep; the chief Vein of the Ore 
 runneth South, and is about a foot in breadth : the Ore 
 holdeth or containeth in it Silver and Copper, fo that out 
 of an hundred pound weight of Ore , they ordinarily gee 
 an Ounce of Silver, and eigbr, nine, or ten ounces or more 
 of Copper , even to pounds, but it is not well known, for 
 the Gopper-mrks are the Emperours. The Undertakers 
 gee out what Silver they can, and afterwards fell the Ore 
 unto^the Emperours Officers 3 but fome Ore is forich as 
 to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver ♦ A blew Earth 
 which they meet with in digging, affords the befl hopes 
 of Ore. Two men lately periflied in this Mine , having 
 made a fire in it, being either choaked with the fraoak,or, 
 
 R as 
 
( 122 ) 
 
 as they thought, by the poyfonous exhalation? forced out 
 of the Minerals by the fire* I have read tha, Libujja the 
 Trinceis, and reputed Sorcerefs of Bohemia , foretold 
 many things concerning thefe Mines \ but certain it is , 
 that for the advantage and profit thefe bring, the Town 
 hath fufFered much in many wars, TheEmperour Sigif 
 muni, made hade out of it upon the approach of Zifa, and 
 feeing he could not hold it, burnt the Town ; but it 
 was icon rebuilt and poflTefTed by Zifa , whole- party 
 called it the Purfe of dntkhrifl , 
 
 Leaving Cotlenburg , I came to Colline and to Bohemi ~ 
 anMroda, fo named to diftinguilh it from Dutch or Teu 
 tonick Broda before mentioned, a confiderable good Town, 
 and from thence came to Brag, or j Prague, the Capital 
 and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia. The Walls 
 of this City feem to enclofe the greateft Circuit of ground 
 of any I have feen in Germany , but the Hills and void 
 fpaces within it take up a la^ge Trad: , and therein it is 
 like theCity of Lyon in Francefn is feated upon the River 
 Muldau , by the Bohemians named Ultaue, a large rapid 
 River, arifing in the South part of Bohemia , and before 
 it arri veth at Prague , receiveth the River Sarfua and the. 
 Watta into it \ and Northward of Prague the River Egra r 
 and joyneth with the Elbe . 
 
 This great place confifteth of three Towns, named the 
 0 id) the( New , and the Kleine Seine n, or leffer t own. 
 The qtiTtwnlieth upon the Eaft of the River Muldau y 
 is very populous, full of Buildings, private and pub- 
 lick. Very confiderable in this part is alfo the tlniverfi- 
 ty , wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars, 
 there being but one Ilniverfity in Bohemia $ many perfons 
 alfo referring thither from ocher Countries. 1 1 is fcarce 
 credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in 
 Mragw .in former Ages* as hath been delivered by divers 
 
 Authors. 
 
(* 23 ) 
 
 Authors. And Lewis du xVT*y,Counfe!lor unto the Duke 
 of Wirtenburg, affirmed), That there are at prefent fcarce 
 fo many Students in all Germany 5 as there weieat Prague 
 in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty 
 thoufand under the Retlorjhip of John Hus. Charles the 
 Fourth, Emperour, and King of Bohemia , founded the 
 University of Prague , giving equal priviiedges to the 
 Bohemians,? olanders ^ and Germans : and when he would re- 
 trench bis favours towardsStrangers, there went out of the 
 Town in a weeks time twenty four thoufand Scholars,and 
 a little after, fixteen thoufand, whereby we may judge 
 there were more Scholars i x\ Prague than other perfons 
 in fome great Cities. There are alfo in this old Town d 
 vers Colledgcs and Cloy tiers* The Jejuites have a fair, 
 hand fome near unto the Bridge , but the Build- 
 
 ings of the old Town are inferiour to tSiofe of the lejfcr 
 Town ♦ 
 
 The new Town is large, and together with the River, 
 encompaffeth the old, and is divided from it by a large 
 Trench or Ditch , into which they can let in the River.The 
 Irijh haveaCloyfierof Francifcans near unto an old Tower 
 in the Wall of the old Town. The Jefuites have alfo be- 
 gun a large Cloyfter, which, if fin ifhed according to its 
 beginning and defign, will be very fpacious and noble* 
 They are now making Baflions about the Town at one end 
 thereof ; there is alfo a Citadel , but not finished, at Wijfe - 
 raht 9 or Wiffegrade, formerly the Seat of the Princes of 
 Bohemia , and alfo of the famous Princefs Lfbuffa , the 
 Daughter of Crocus , and Wife unto Primiflam. 
 
 The Kleine Seitten, or leffer Prague , far exceedeth the 
 other for pleafantnefs and beauty of Buildings and fait 
 Palaces. This part lieth Weftward of the River Mul- 
 daw , which between this and the old Town , is paflTable by 
 a ft tong Stone-bridge, confifting of fixteen great Arches, 
 
 R 2 being 
 
<'ff2 4 ) 
 
 being about Seventeen hundred foot long, and Thirty 
 five foot broad, and two open Gates under two high 
 Towers of Stone at each end* A great part of this 
 Town lieth high, and upon the Hill ftandeth Hratfchin , 
 or Upper Prague , and a Summer Houfe of the Emperours, 
 befides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperours , as King 
 of Bohemia \ and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated 
 to St. Veit 5 firft built by Sr. Wencejlaus , Duke of Bohemia 3 
 923. from whence the Town and River is beft viewed* 
 In this Church are divers old Monuments for great Per- 
 form ; as for Pogiehrachius a Bohemian King, Wence flans , 
 Rodolphm the Second 3 Charles the Fourth, Ladtjlaus , 
 Maximilian the Second, and ocher Arch-Dukes and Em- 
 perours. There are alfo many Houfes of the Nobility in 
 this part of the Gity. The Palace and Garden of Colare* 
 do js exceeding neat, though final 1 * But I was moft plea- 
 fed with the Palace of Count Wallenfteyn> Duke of Fried- 
 land , Genera! unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Second, 
 who beingfufpeftedto IHurp that Kingdom , was after- 
 wards killed at Fgra . This Palace was built upon the 
 Ruins of an hundred Houfes, purpofely plucked down 
 to make room for it 3 wherein the Hall is large, theGar- 
 den handfome 5 upon one fide whereof there is a place to 
 manage Horfes, and near unto it a Fifti-pond : in ano- 
 ther part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees 
 in it, after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at 
 Genoa, which is eighty paces long, and eighteen broad. 
 The Stable is large, and worth the feeing* wherein there 
 is a Marble Pillar between each Horftyand for every 
 Horfe there is placed in a nich of the Wall a Rack of 
 Steel, and Manger of Marble, and over his Head hangeth 
 a Piftureof the Horfe, as bigas the Life, with bis Name 
 under it. Among the reft, l obferved that a Bay*horfe 
 tad for,: his Name Mmte ^On r a Mare, Bella donna^ ano« 
 
(r2§) 
 
 ither Ejpagnoletta, and his nioft beloved Horfe was nattied^ 
 Mas J&uerido. 
 
 Some have thought that thebeft high German is (poker* 
 in this part of Prague ; and there living fo many of the 
 Nobility and great Perfons , it is not to be wood red at, 
 that their Language is better than ordinary. But the 
 common Language of Bohemia is a Dialeft of the ScUvonr- 
 an 5 though very many fpeakalfo High dutch , as we found 
 in ail our paffage through that Country. Koningfmark 
 being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia , a 
 difcontented Colonel of the Imperialijis came unto hii% 
 making it probable that he might furprize Hratfchm , and 
 the leffer fide of Prague , which he fuddainly attempted % 
 and fo fuccefifully, that he furprized many Officers, and 
 old Golaredo in his Bed, getting fo great a Booty, that he 
 could fcarce carry it away. 
 
 A part of Prague is inhabited by Jews, and called the 
 Jews Town ; there are no (mail number of them, and ma» 
 ny rich, as trading in all Commodities, and have good 
 skill in Jewels, and feveral forts of Stones digged out of 
 the Mines in Bohemia : I bought fome Bohemian Topazes' 
 of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and fon e which 
 were very large and clear , were at the rate of feven or 
 eight Dollars. During my flay here, I had a great defire 
 to have faluted Johannes Mantes Marci, a famous Phyfici- 
 an and Philofopher of Prague , and alfo to have induced 
 him to aCorrefpondence with the Royal Society ^ but I 
 underftood that be had left this World, to the great grief 
 of Learned Men in thefe and other parts* 
 
 Many here do fpeak ftill of John Hus and Jerome of 
 Prague, andl have feen Silver Medals of them. They were 
 Purely very notable men ; and I (hall only fet down what 
 zMneas Sylvius Pope Pius the Second Paid of them. Jo* 
 hmm &UU major & author Hate 9 doUtrM &fawndiafo~ 
 
(126) 
 
 prior Hieronymus, pertulerunt mho conjlantlanimo necem , 
 &quajiad Fpuluminvitati ad wcendium proper arunt,nuU 
 lam emit tent es vccem quae miferi animipvjfct ferre indicium: 
 ubiardere ceperunt , hymnum cecinere qtttw vix fLmm a 
 &fragor ignis interciperepotuit, nemo Fhilc\oph or um tarn 
 forti ammo mortem pertulifte traditur quam ijh incendium , 
 In Hijl . Bohemica, John was or greater years and autho- 
 
 rity, Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning: both of 
 them endured their Death with great conftancy, and went 
 unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet : when they 
 began to burn, they'fungan Hymn, which the flame and 
 fire could fcarce intercept. None of the old Philofophers 
 endured their death with fuch a courageous mind as thefe 
 the fire. 
 
 The fame Author compar ah Prague unto the City of 
 Florence in Tufcany , wherefore having feen both places, 
 I cannot omit to fay fomething. I had a view of the Ci- 
 ty of Florence from the cop of the Domo, or Cathedral , 
 and of Prague from the Church of St. Veit, upon the Hill 
 inthelefferTown: Prague feemed to my eye to contain 
 a far greater Circuit than Florence 3 it feemed alfo more 
 populous, and to exceed ic very much in the number of 
 People, the Streets larger, and the Windows of Palaces 
 and fair Houfes being of Glafs^ looked not fo tatterdly 
 as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence ♦ The River 
 jtrno , which runs through Florence «, is not to be compa- 
 red with the Muldau at Prague, having run about an hun- 
 dred miles from its Head. The large, maflfy , long Stone- 
 Bridge exceedeth any of, if not all, the four Bridges of Flo- 
 rence . The Emperours Palace alfo upon the Hill is very 
 ftately : But a$ for the well-paved Streets of Florence , 
 the Dome or Cathedral with black and white Marble, with 
 a Cupola , fecond only to that of St. Peters of Rome , for 
 the incomparable Chappel of St* Laurence, and^the Dufas 
 
 Gallery 
 
O 12 ?) 
 
 Gallery and Rarities , I mu ft coufefs I fa w not any thing i n 
 Prague which anfwered them. At Wtijfenberg > or the 
 white Bilinear Prague, that deciding Battel was fo'Ggfrt 
 Novemb . 8. 1620. between Frederick Prince Palatine of 
 th eRhine, defied Kingof Bohemia, and the Forces of 
 the Emptrour Ferdinand the Second, which gave fjcha 
 deep*biow unto the Pr olefiant Party , wherein fo many of 
 Frederick’s Forces were flairs and drowned in the River 
 in their flight, wherein alfo that famous Commander Pa* 
 penheim was found lying among the dead , who notwith- 
 ftanding died not of his wounds , but was referved to 
 end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable 
 Battel of Lutzen. 
 
 From Prague I defigned to pafs by water down the 
 Muldaw, which uniteth with the Elbe about Melrnk , and 
 fo down the Elbe unto Hamburg. But the Winter advan» 
 cing, and the Weather proving cold , the Boats did not 
 go as in Summer , and therefore I took my Journey by 
 Land, and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right 
 hand, 1 pafTed the firft day to Zagethal , the next to We- 
 luerne , and fo to Budin and Lahajitz upon the Elbe . Ha- 
 ving pafTed over the Egra , a confiderable River , arifing 
 not far from the City of Egra , and at faft running into 
 the Elbe ; thenext day by the Caftle of Kriegfiein , or 
 Warreftone , feated upon a high fteep Rock, I came to 
 jiufig, a fmall City not far from the Elbe , having little 
 remarkable in it* likemany other fmall Cities of Bohemia , 
 and fo forward to Nolndorff, where we lodged upon 
 Mount Kninfberg, the day after we entred into Mifnia 9 
 pafTing by Peter fwaid, and Hellendorff che firft Village in 
 Mifnia, and Kifibel where are Iron Mines about eigh- 
 teen Fathoms deep, and iron works . 
 
 We now understood that Bohemia was a larger Country 
 than weexpefted • it lieth round, and fome fay it is three 
 
 day! 
 
(128) 
 
 days portage over 5 others that the Diameter extendeth 
 two hundred miles. From Igla upon the Confines unto 
 Hellendorff, it took me nine days Journey in November 
 by Coach, not reckoning the time I ftaid at Prague. In 
 many places there are very ill Paflages, and fo rudely 
 mended with great Trees, laid fide by fide, that they are 
 often very troublefome to pafs. 
 
 We travelled afterwards towards Drefden , in a fruitful 
 Country, wherein were many Deer in moft parts of the 
 way, in fight of the Caftle of PUnitz , a ftrong place , and 
 feated high. I could not but cart an eye on the Rocks 
 behind us in the Foreftof Bohemia , which looked like 
 the Ruines of a Wall which formerly enclofed Bohemia , 
 which Country is defcribed with a Foreft or Woods 
 round about it. But I confefs I did not really perceive 
 that there was fuch a Wood round about it as is common- 
 ly fet forth in Mapps$ only both within, andalfoinmany 
 parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which are 
 conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Forejl. 
 
 The Bohemians are a ftrong, flout, and hardy People , 
 make good Souldiers, and have made great wars both at 
 home and abroad ; and Hifiories are full of their warlike 
 Exploits, The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra , 
 a ftrong City, accounted the Second of Bohemia. The 
 Country affordeth alio lufty and ftrong Horfes. The 
 common fort of People ar£ boy fterous, rough, and quarrel- 
 fome, efpecially in drink , whereto they are too much 
 addi&ed. The Nobility jind Gentry are civil and kind 
 anto Strangers. There are many great Families of the 
 Nobility, among which that of Rofenberg and Pofel is an- 
 cient, and of high efteem. Since the unhappy accepting 
 of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine , and the ill 
 fuccefs upon it, there hath been a great alteration in thi* 
 Country, both as to People and their Manners » for there- 
 upon 
 
<I2 9 ) 
 
 upon many thdufandslefc the Kingdom, and many who re- 
 mained* turned their Religion. And the Emperours have 
 ufed the like feverity upon others in their Hereditary 
 Dominions* 
 
 The next confiderable place we came unto was Dref- 
 denin Mifnia, as well worth the feeing, as almoit any 
 Town in Germany. Drefden is the Seat and Relidence of 
 the Elector of Saxony , feated upon the River Elbe, over 
 which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen 
 Arches. The City is very well fortified after the Mo- 
 dernway, the Baflions Revenues 9 and in each Bajlion a 
 Cavallier : It hath alfo a large Trench or Ditch about it , 
 infome places double $ and the River Elbe addeth unto 
 itsftrength. The Walls are very ftrong: and they fay, 
 that when the firft Stone was laid to build them, there was 
 placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded, a Book of the 
 Laws, and anocherof Coy ns, and three G Ioffes filled with 
 Wine. It hath alfo three Gates. The places moft worth 
 the feeing are thefe : The Italian Garden in theSuburbs ; 
 the Hunters Houfe in the old Town beyond the River ; 
 the EleUors Palace ; his Houfe for wild Beajis ; his Stable* 
 houfe and Jrfenal , of which I (hall fet down fome things 
 obfervable in their kind. In the Electors Palace, the Hall 
 is very large, and handfomely painted with Cities, Gy- 
 ants, and the Habits of feveral Nations, and fet out with 
 feven large branched Candlefticks : But that which af- 
 fordeeh the greateft delight is his Kunflkammcr , Art- 
 Chamber, or Colle&ion of Rarities, both of Art and Na- 
 ture. In the firft Partition are to be leeo all manner of 
 well-made Injlruments belonging to moft Trades , as 
 Joyners, Turners, Barbers , Smiths , Chirurgeons , ando- 
 ther Artificers \ lnjlruments to force open Doors, Chejls , 
 &c. In the other Chambers thefe and the like are obfer- 
 vable. 
 
 S 
 
 A 
 
030 ) 
 
 A Tube-glsfs four Ells long. A large blew Turkifh-glajs. 
 Variety of Cor aland artificial Works of it. Fowls made 
 out of Mother of Pearl. Drinking Cups in the fliape of 
 Dragons , Elephants , &c. Cafiles of Gold and Mother of 
 PearL Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili , and 
 other Shells, and out of Oeftricheggs. A fine Oefirich 
 made out of its Egg 7 with the Feathers of Gold. A Cup 
 made out of the Ball taken out of an Ones Stomach y\ch\y 
 fet, about a foot long* A Stone as big as my fift , like a 
 Bezoarfione, taken out of a Horje. A Purfe made out 
 of the Linum Incombufiibile. Silver Ore from the Mines 
 of Freiberg^ almoft pure, in firings and {boots. A Natural 
 Crofs of Silver Ore. One hundred and twenty one Heads 
 carved on the outfide of a Cherry- fione . A Religious Man 
 or Frier of Japan carved in Box. A Chryftal Cabinet r 
 fold by Oliver Cromwell , wherein is kept a Ring which 
 hah Stones in it in the fliape of a Cafile . His Majefty King 
 Charles the Second on Horsback, carved out of Iron. A 
 Head of King Charles the Fir A. A Glafs Organ,Topazes 
 unpoliflied, ten inches in Diameter. A Gap out of a 2V 
 paze. Emeralds an inch in Diameter , as they grow in the 
 Rock, refemblingthe Vitriolum Nativnm, as I faw it in 
 Paradife hillhy Schemnit% in Hungary ♦ Stones named 
 thunder fiones, fmeliingof Fire. Rocks made out of all 
 forts of Ore, and the names of the places written upon 
 shem from whence they were digged,, 
 
 The Figures of Fijhes in Stones out of Mansfield \ the 
 Stones are dark-coloured , but the Fijhes of a Gold or 
 Copper colour. All forts of Stones winch are to be 
 found about Saxony and Mifnia poliflied* Two large 
 pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the sjtfine. A Cabinet 
 ©fall forts of Apothecaries Infiruments and chief Druggs. 
 & Han with a Cabinet made in his fide, containing all Me- 
 dicines taken from a Harf t A white Hart as big as the 
 
 Ufa 
 
f»3.0 
 
 Life, made out of the fbwwgs and filings of Hsrts berm 
 and looking like PUifier. Figures plinted in trees. A 
 Spur in part of a Tree. Horns in Trees . 
 
 A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Injlruments 
 and Charts ♦ A good Library of Mathematical Booly* An 
 Unicorns-horn , which they will have to be of a Land ti- 
 nker n, being neither wreathed nor hollow, A Dart of 
 Umcorns-horn . Among the Pictures in the fame Cham- 
 bers thefefeemed remarkdble: A Picture by Colter ^ of 
 the Siege of Jerufalew, with great number of Figures y 
 and highly efteemed. Four Heads of the Elements made 
 out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura . 
 A painting of Merchants Letters ftuck behind green Tape* 
 A Storm by Rubens . Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden* 
 A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloyfler , in his Gown y and 
 after his Death. There is alfo great variety of excellent 
 Clockwork > and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a 
 rowling bullet . A Cuckow fingeth by Clockwork , a Horf 
 man rideth, a faileth, an old Woman walkeib, a Cen« 
 taur runneth and fhooteth, aCr*£creepeth upon a Table 
 fo well as to amaze and delight 5 but among ail, the Crab 
 feems to be moft naturally imitated. 
 
 In the stable*bou[e , befides the extraordinary noble 
 Stable of Horfes, wherein every Horfe eats out of a Rack 
 of Iron , and Manger of Copper ; and on a jPi//^r by him 
 his C^, Bridle and Saddle , and other Nece{Taries,hang; 
 befides a handfome Window with a Curtain before him* 
 There are obfervable a very fair Fountain and pond fet a- 
 bout with handfome Ballifters, where the Horfes are wa- 
 tered. A long walk arched and painted with Horfes * over 
 which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and 
 Electors of Saxony , both in their Military and Electoral 
 Habits. Two Beds of Marble . Drinking Cups which 
 feem not great, yet fo contrived as to hold divers quarts. 
 
 $2 A 
 
03 ?) 
 
 A Spring which caufeth a Horfemm in Silver to come ri- 
 ding in, bringing a Cup of Wine in his band. A pair of 
 noble Pijlols with ail the Stories of the New and Old Te- 
 Jlament upon them. AGlafs Gun 4 A Gun which Ihoots 
 off Forty times without charging again. A Piece which 
 fheweth the manner of the firft invention of Jlriktng Fire 
 in Guns* A Lock without a coc\* 
 
 A Chamber of rich sleds for Hcrfes , made ufe of in 
 Jollity and pompous Courfes upon the Snow* A white 
 Bears skin fluffed. Tigers and Lyons "Skins* A Caffowares 
 Skin. Good jitmur for Men and Horfes . Many forts 
 
 of Indian &leny, Vuntans , and other forts. A Picture 
 of Laplanders and their Cufioms. A Lapland Drum with 
 Figures to conjure by. A Chamber of all Hunting Arms 
 and Neceffaries' 
 
 The Armamentarium* Armory or Arfenal, is a long,fquare 
 Building, w herein are about Four hundred hr a/s Pieces 
 o f Ordinance, great number of Muskets and Armour in 
 the. upper Room* Silver Coats of Male. Pieces of Ordi- 
 
 nance to be charged behind. Retorts and Alemhicks in 
 the fibap- of Granados. The Steeple of the chief Church 
 was lately burnt by Lightning* and; the Canon melted 
 which were upon it. 
 
 In the Hunting-houfe , in the old Town, are fifteen Bears 
 very well provided for and looked unto. They have 
 Fountains and Pends to wafli themfelves in, wherein they 
 much delight : And near to the Pond are high ragged Pojls 
 or Trees fee up for the Bears to climb up, and Scaffolds 
 made at the top to fun and dry themfelves ; where they 
 will alfoiJeep,andcomeandgoas the Keeper calls them. 
 The Horn Gallery is alfo remarkable in this place, out of 
 which there are three Chambers ; one painted with fede- 
 ral forts of Hunting ; another with all forts of Fowl ; aud 
 aihirjd with greatyariety o fBeaJls, 
 
•n<> J 
 
(* 33 ) 
 
 In the Hcufe for wild Beads I took notice of a I/Ufi'iH, 
 which is a four-footed Bead, that hangeth upon Trees by 
 the Tail. Alfo a mid or Mountain-Cat of a large fize. Five 
 young Bears. Five old black Bears. A white Bear very 
 large ; the feety he head , and the nec^xe longer than thofe 
 of th z black, but not fo thick. Two Lyons. TcnLuekfer, 
 very fine Beajls r in bignefs , colour , and foape between a Tiger 
 and a wild Cat '$ the tips of their Ears and Tails are blac%, 
 their Eyes lively, their Skin Lyon coloared, and (potted, 
 efpecialiy about their Eyes . / 
 
 The Italian Garden and Summer-houfe in the Suburbs 
 is very noble, wherein are two Obelisks , two gallant 
 Fountains , a Theatre and good LandskipS ; This Garden 
 and Summer*}) oh je were built by two of the Prince Ele- 
 flours Eunuchs , and afterwards fold unto the Prince for 
 Six and twenty thoufand Dollars. 
 
 Drefaen is but a late City, and was formerly a Village, 
 The Cburfurjt , or Eleftcr, wasnot in the Town • but the 
 Chur-prince his Son was there; A Perfon rather of low 
 than middle Stature, his Hair long and yellow, his Face 
 ruddy, his Body well fet and a£Hve, and he is very well 
 beloved. The prefent Eleftor of Saxony is John George 
 the Second, Grand Marfhal of the Empire , a gre t and 
 powerful Prince,who keeps a Royal Court and Attendance, 
 having his Guards and Officers after the manner of Kings . 
 His Dominions lye in Mifnia , Thuringia, Vopland, and 
 part of Lufatia. His Revenues are large, from Impoful- 
 ons upon Commodities ; His Profits great, from the Tax 
 upon Beer, which arifeth to no fmallfum, efpecialiy in 
 Wittenberg , Torga, and Leipfick. And his Silver Mines 
 are confiderable. And the Funeral of the laft Eleflour 
 Joannes Georgius the Firft, was very magnificent 1657. 
 at which there were twenty four FJorfes of State covered 
 with blacky and the Electoral Efcntcbeon embroydered 
 
 there- 
 
034 ) 
 
 thereon, and every one led by two Gentlemen, and three 
 thoufand five hundred perfons in mourning. 
 
 T)r ^Luthers Holiday was kept when l was there. The 
 chief Church is very fair : They preach ever y morning 
 at fevena Clock. Th z Lutheran women mourn in white, 
 as others do in Black : and the woman of the Houfedoth 
 ordinarily fay Grace inftead of the man. The beft High- 
 dutch is fpoken in this place , and other parts of Mifnia, 
 which is a very pleafant fruitful Country, and full of good 
 Towns and Villages. 
 
 Leaving this noble place, I took not the neareft Road, 
 but turned out of the way unto Freiberg , a place noted 
 for Silver t Mines • whereof I had read fomething in jt- 
 gricoU , and heard very much in thefe parts. About an 
 Englijh mile or two from Freiberg , there are many remar- 
 kable Mines. 1 took notice of three of them: One called 
 Jujf den hohen berg, or upon the high Hill , which is the 
 deepeft in thefe parts, as being (eventy feven of their 
 Fathoms deep i each of their Fathoms contains twelve of 
 their Ells, and three of their Ells makes one of our Fa- 
 thoms. So that thedepth of this C Mine exceedeth any 
 of thofe wherein I was in Hungary ♦ There is another 
 Mine called Himmelfurjl , or the Prince of where* 
 
 in not long fince there was Ore found fo rich, as in an 
 hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty 
 Marks of Silver, orfixty five pounds in the hundred, 
 but there was not much of it : And where the Veyns are 
 richeft, they areobferved to be thineft, about two fin- 
 gers broad $ but the ordinary Ore is but poor, holding 
 an ounce, or an ounce and a half, in an hundred pounds 
 weight ; and if it holdeth but half an ounce they workit. 
 Nor is this much to be wondered at , for in the vaft rich 
 Mines of Peru and Chili , they will work the Silver Ore 
 which containeth four or five ounces in a hundred pound 
 
 weight, 
 
( 135 ) 
 
 weight, and tenor twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of 
 the common Ore of that rich Mountain of j Potoji, out of 
 which Hill alone, if we believe A there Alonfo Barba, Cu- 
 rate of the Panlh of Sc. Bernard in that City, there hath 
 been more Silver taken than would cover all ^Mifnia o- 
 ver and over: For thus he faith, Potofi hath already 
 yielded between four and jive hundred %J[liUicns of fieces of 
 Eight . A quantity fufficient to make fuch another Hill 
 of Silver : It is hard to form a conception equal unto fo 
 exorbitant a heap of Riches ; but the better to help our 
 imagination herein, know,thatif the Ground were cove- 
 red with fo many pieces of Eight , laid as clofe to one 
 another as is poffible,they would take up the fpace offix- 
 ty Leagues fquare. 
 
 Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore 
 whereby it may be melted ; as by Lead and a fort of sil- 
 ver Ore which holds Lead in it* They have alfo Sulphur 
 Ore found here, which after it is burned^doth help much 
 towards the fufion of Metals: Andbefides thefe, Slick , 
 or pounded and wafhed Ore \ and Slacken, which is the 
 Drofs or Cake 5 or Skum taken out of the Vortiegel , or 
 Pan which received) the melted Minerals let out at the 
 bottom of the melting Furnace. Their Treibjhearth , or 
 driving Furnace , where the Litharge is driven off, agreed) 
 better with the Figure of it in Agricola , than thofe of 
 Hungary } fomeof the Litharge is green : Their Buck - 
 mrk and their Engines which pound the Ore , the Coal 9 
 and Clay , are alfo very neat. Much of their Ore is 
 wafhed, efpecially the pooreft, and that which is mixed 
 with Jlones , quarts, or fjarrs. 
 
 This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the 
 pounded and wafhed Ore in the Roajlhearth , before they 
 anelc it in the &mU*wy€n> or melting Furnace* 
 
 kt 
 
036 ) 
 
 At thefe Mines of Hungary where I was, they ufed not 
 the Virgula dtvina, or forked Hazel , to find out Silver 
 Ore , or hidden Treafure in the Earth ; and I fliould little 
 depend thereon : but here they have an efteem of if. And 
 I obferved rbe ufe thereof, and the manner how they did 
 it. Butjfhall omit the Defcriptionof it , becaufeitis 
 fet down in divers Books, and it cannot be fo well de- 
 fcribed as ftown to the Eye. 
 
 I faw alfo another offline, called jfuff der Halfbrucker, 
 about eighty of our Fathoms deep, and much worked: 
 They have divers forts of Orel but they contain either 
 Silver and Copper, Silver and Lead , or all three 5 but 
 they work them only for silver . They have divers damps 
 in thefe Clines, where it is deep. The Mines are cold 
 where the outward Air comes in ; but where not t warm. 
 The greateft trouble they have is by dofr, which fpoileth 
 their Lungs and Stomachs , and frets their Skins. But 
 they are not fo much troubled with water ; and have ve- 
 ry good Engins to draw the water out. 
 
 The Sulphur , or Brimjlone Ore which is found here, is 
 alfo rich; it is hard and ftony, as other Ores are: that 
 which hath red Jpots is accounted the heft. They ufe a 
 peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimjlone from the Ore ; 
 fome whereof y ieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of sb 
 hundred weight of Ore, which as it melteth runneth out 
 of the Furnace into water , or the Exhalations from tfee 
 Ore near or in the Fire, are condenfed into Brimjlone by 
 the Surface of the Water placed to receive it; this is once 
 again melted and purified. Some of the Brimjlone Ore 
 eontaineth Silver, fome Copper , and fome both in a fniall 
 proportion. 
 
 After the Sulphur is melted from the ©re, the remain- 
 der ferveth for two ufes ; that is, either for the melting of 
 Silver ) or for the making of Vitriol : To the former only 
 
 thus ; 
 

( 137 ) 
 
 thus; A proportion is caft into the melting Furnace of 
 the Silver , to this end, to ufe the Miners expreffion, to 
 make the Silver which is hard, fluid. 
 
 The other ufe, and which is more confiderable, is for 
 the making of Vitriol, or Copperofe in this manner ; They 
 take th eOre out of which the Brimjlone hath been already 
 melted, and burn it once again, or let it ftill burn in the 
 open Am; then putting it into a large Fate, they poor 
 water upon it, foas to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol ; 
 this Water is afrerwards boyled to a fufficient height, and 
 let out into the Coolers, where flicks are fet in it , as in 
 the making of Sugar Candy: The pure ft Chryftallized 
 Vitriol flicks unto the wood, the reft to the fides and bot- 
 tom. Thus the Sulphur Ore , after the Sulphur is taken out 
 of it, ftill worketh upon the Silver Ore , and openeth 
 the Body of it in the Fire ; but when tjiis Ore is alfo de* 
 prived of its Vitriol, it worketh no more upon Me~ 
 tals. 
 
 Friberg is a round well-walled City 5 hath handfome 
 Streets, a Piazza, the Ele&or’s Caftle , and five Gates, 
 the Church of S t* Peter is fair, where many of the Dukes 
 and Ducal Family have been buried, and have fair Monu- 
 ments ; efpecially Duke Mauritius, Eleftor of Saxony , 
 whofe Monument in black Marble is raifed three piles high, 
 adorned with many fair Statuas in Alabafler and white 
 Marble, and efteemed one of thenobleft, if not the beft, 
 in Germany. And when this Town was furrendred unto 
 Hoick and GaUai , OUob . 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony 
 paid 80000 Dollars to fave the Monuments of his Prede- 
 ceffours from being ranfacked and defaced, it being the 
 fafhionof divers German Princes to be buried in their 
 Robes, with their Enfigns of Honour ^ Rings, Jewels, and 
 the like, which would have been booty, and probably 
 have run the fame fortune as the Cloijler of Haibron, within 
 
 T twelve 
 
(r 5 S) 
 
 twelve Englijh miles of Nuremberg, where fome of the 
 Marquifles of Onfpach, who areof the Electoral Houfeof 
 Brandenburg 5 lye entombed, whete Tikje's 5 ou!diers 
 brake open the Vaults and robbed the dead Corpfes of the 
 MarquiflTes, George Frederick, and Joachim Emefl s of the 
 Jewels .Rings^ud other rich Ornaments with which they 
 were entombed . 
 
 There are fome Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in 
 the City, by which there are paffages into the Mines. 
 This p’ace was formerly f reightly befieged by the Em- 
 perour jidolphm, for the fpace of a year and a month, 
 and at faft betrayed by a Fugitive, who let in a party of 
 the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Paf- 
 fage near St. Donats Gate, and upon the continual Batte- 
 ries made at the Town, and concuffion of the Earth a* 
 bout it, the Earth funk down in many places, and fwal- 
 iowed great numbers of the Emperours Army. 
 
 Thefe Mines afford great benefit unto the City , and 
 alfo unto the Eleftor $ They are faid to have been found 
 out in the yearn So. But there have been other Silver 
 Mines difcovered fince ; as at Scbneeberg, at Anneberg, 
 and at Joachims Dale , 1526. 
 
 Having paffed fome time at Friberg , I ordered my 
 journey for Leipjic and travelling by Waltheim and Col- 
 dick, came unto it- 
 
 Leipjtck is feated upon the River Eljler , which arifing 
 in Voytland, or Terra Advocatorum , paffeth by it, and 
 afterwards runneth into the River Sala # It is a rich 
 and great trading City ; hath three Marts in the year 9 
 and great refort unto it from many parts : It is well-built, 
 and divers Houfes are (even ftories high. The Cajlle is 
 ftriftly guarded, and hath in it a ftrong white Town: But 
 £be Works about the Town are not very confiderable* al- 
 though they might be made ftrong. 
 
 The. 
 
(139? 
 
 The Church of St. Nichole is well adorned, and hath 
 the name to be the faireft within fide of any Lutheran 
 Church in Germany ; they have alfo a remarkable Burial - 
 place or Godtfafyr, walled about , and cloyftered near 
 the Wall, wherein the better fort are buried , as the reft 
 in the middle and open part. Which put me in mind of 
 that noble Burial-place which I faw at Pifa in Lufiany , 
 called // campo Santo, becaufe the Earth which the Em- 
 perour Frederick Barbarcjfa brought from the Holy Land, 
 for the Ballad of his Ships, was laid upon that Ground. 
 
 Leipfick^ is famous for two great Battels fought near 
 unto it in the laft Swedi/h wars ; one between Gujiavm 
 Adolphut , King of Sweden , and Count Lilly , General of 
 the Imperialist, 1631 . wherein the Swedes obtained a 
 great Viflory. Lilly was wounded, fled, and lived not 
 longafter. Another fome years after in the fame place,' 
 wherein Leonard Lorjlenfon the Swede , overcame Arch- 
 duke Leopoldm Cmlieimm, and Octavio Ficcolomini 3 Gene- 
 rals of the Imperial Army . And about a mile and a half 
 
 from hence, at Lutzen, another great Battel was fought, 
 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Ar» 
 my y commanded by Albert Wallenlleyn Duke of trie Aland 9 
 wherein th z Swedes obtained the Vi&ory, but the King of 
 Sweden was flain ; and on the Imperial fide that famous 
 Commander , Godfrey Count of Pappenheim ♦ 
 
 There is alfo an Univerjityat Leipjick, firft occafioned 
 by the German Scholars of Frague , who in the troubles 
 of the Huffites came hither, to the number of Two thorn* 
 fand in one day ; and is dill one of the Lhree Univerfities 
 in the Ele&or’s Dominions 3 the other being Jena by the 
 River SaU r and Wittenberg upon the Elbe . In this Uni- 
 verfity they are much addifted to the ftudy oftheL<m?,but 
 there are alfo Learned men in other Faculties, 
 
 T 2 The 
 
(3 40 ) 
 
 The Magi/lrates of Leipflck are a!fo confiderable. Der 
 herrvon Adlerfhelme was the Burgomafler , a courteous 
 Learned Perfoii , and great Virtuofo , who had collected 
 and obferved many things: He hath had five fair Daugh- 
 ters brought up mail commendable ways of working, 
 Drawing, Paintings Inlaying with Flowers, with Mother 
 of Pearly Stones , and other pretty Works. And they 
 fpeak divers Languages, which they learned at a School 
 in Holland : So that his Houfe hath a great deal of excel- 
 lent Furniture of his Childrens work , and is one of the 
 nioft confiderable Curiofities to be feen in Leipflck^ His 
 Summer-boufe ishandfome, painted both within and with* 
 out : And in the Water about, are Mufcovy Ducks, Indian 
 Geefe , and divers rare Fowls. In his Chamber of Rari- 
 ties there are many things confiderable But I have feen 
 divers of them in ether places, and lately fet down 
 fome Varieties of the Elector of Saxony, I fhall mention 
 but a few. 
 
 An Elephants Head with the dentes molar es in it. An 
 Animal like an Armadillo , but the Scales are much larger, 
 and the Tail broader. Y T ery large flying Fifhes. A Sea - 
 horfe . Bread of Mount Libanus* A Cedar-branch with 
 
 the Fruit upon if* Large Granates as they grow in the 
 A Sirens hand. A Chameleon made out of a Fijh. 
 A piece of Iron , which feemeth to be the bead of a Spear > 
 found in the Tooth of an Elephant^ the Tooth being grown 
 about it. The ifle of Jerfey drawn by our King. A piece 
 of Wood with f he Blood of King Charles the Firft upon it. 
 A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it. Much 
 Japan painting, wherein rheir manner of hunting ar)d work* 
 ing may be obferved. A Picture of our Saviour , the 
 Hatches of which are writing, or written, and contain the 
 ftory of his PaJJion . Severs taken in the River Elbe . A 
 Fill me of themurthcr of the Innocents } done by Albert 
 
 Durer . 
 
040 
 
 Durer . Pictures of divers flrange Fowls. A Greenland 
 Boat* The Skins of white Bears , Figres, Wolves , and 
 other Beafts. And I mull not omit the Garter of an Eng^ 
 lift) Bride , with the ftory of it ; of the Fafhion in England 
 for the Bridemen to rake it off, and wear it in their Hat, 
 which feemed fo ftrangeto the Germans , that i was obli- 
 ged to confirm it to them, by adoring them that I had di- 
 vers times wore fuch a Garter my felf. 
 
 Leaving this bufie and trading City of Leipftck , , I efi- 
 refted my Journey unto Magdeburg ^ and travelled through 
 a plain Country, between the River Sala and the Elbe, by 
 Landfberg , nigh to Peterfdorjft where there is a fmall Bill 
 which overlooks all the Country, fo to Klhten , the Refi» 
 denceof the Prince of Anhalt 5 then to Cain , and over the 
 River before it runneth into the £/£<?, which arifing 
 at Mount Fichtelberg , now haftneth towards it* Fich- 
 telberg is a confiderable Mountain, near which are divers 
 Mines , Bathes , and Mineral waters , of which Ga(]?ar 
 Brufchit&s hath written a Defcription. And from it arife 
 four Rivers, running to the four quarters of the World. 
 The Maine or Mccnus, towards the Weft^ the Nab or 
 Ndbm y towards the South ; thee^g^r towards the Eaff$ 
 and the forementioned Sala towards the North, Thefe 
 four afterwards fall into the three greateft Pavers of Ger- 
 many, the Danube , the Rhine , and the Elbe . Then to Sals 
 or Saltz, a placed noted for Sak-fprings , and that night 
 to Magdeburg . 
 
 Parthenopolu , or Magdeburg , is feared by the River 
 £/£*, formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany , now 
 under the Marquifs of Brandenburg , of very great Circuity 
 but little more than half built again, fince it was facked 
 and burnt by Filly, and Thirty fix thoufand perfbns put 
 to the Sword and deftroyed. I could not but obferve 
 the ruinous and deftru&ive efFefls of the late wars in many 
 
 parti 
 
042 ) 
 
 parts of Germany, but not in any fo great and flourish- 
 ing a place as this : And a man might think*, chat after this 
 great deftruftionof Houfes and PeopIe,this place Should 
 not be able to ftand a Siege • yet a few years after it was 
 befieged by General Hatzfield, unto whom (Bannienhc 
 Swede not being able to relieve it) it was yielded. The 
 Cathedral Church is very fair , and built like an Englijh 
 one, by the Emperour the Firft , and his Emprefs 
 Editha, an Englijh woman, Daughter unto King Edmund y 
 wbofe Effigies inStonelfaw in the Church, with nine- 
 teen Tuns of Geld by her which She gave thereto. And 
 to fay the truth, Englijh mony hath done great things in 
 Germany , for hereby, or with a good part thereof, this 
 Church was built or endowed. Leopold Duke of Au- 
 Jiria , builc the old Walls of Vienna with the ranfome of 
 King Richard the Firft, whom he detained in his return 
 through jiufiria from the Holy Land . King Edward the 
 Firft fenc a great Sum of Mony unto the Emperour Adol~ 
 phnSy for the railing of Souldiers in Germany, which the 
 Emperour employed in purchafmg a great part of Mifnia 
 for himfelf. 
 
 The Lutheran Churches are handfome, and their Pul- 
 pits are extraordinary noble, and richly fee off, as I ob- 
 served , through all Saxony 3 JSforimberg. And where 
 they are Mafters of the Places, and have not their Chur- 
 ches only by permifllon ; here they Shewed me in the 
 Cathedral Church of Sr. Maurice , the Statuas of the five 
 wife Virgins fouling, and of the fivefoolijh Virgins lament- 
 ing, which are very well exprefTed ; They Shewed me al- 
 fo two odd Reliques 5 which they ftill kept as Rarities j 
 that is, the Bafon wherein EiUte waShed his hands, when 
 he declared himfelf free from the blood of our Saviour $ 
 and the Ladder whereon the Cock flood when he crowed 
 after St, Reter’s denying of Chrift. 
 
 In 
 
(H3) 
 
 In the R nines of the Cloijler of the ^ ugujlines , there 
 is (till to be feen Luthers Chamber, bis Bedfiead, and 
 Table, and upon the Door are thefe G**7w<wfrVerfes* 
 
 Die war Lu tberi Kammerlin , 
 
 Venn er ins Clofler kam her in, 
 
 Gedachm halb wird noch itzund 
 Beringefehen fein Bcttefpynd , 
 
 i> e. 
 
 Luther did lodge within this little Room, 
 
 When firlthrdid into the Cloifter come j 
 In memory whereof we fill do keep 
 The Bedfiead upon which he us 3 d to fleep 3 
 
 I lodged at ^Magdeburg, in an old man’s Houfe, who 
 would tell me many ftories of the burning of the Town, the 
 truelties and bloody ufage of the people, who were defray- 
 ed without exception : The Nuns, many of them being 
 drowned in the River Elbe. After which fome obferved 
 thatCountT//// never profpered in his wars. He told 
 me alfo that Dnrew lodged with him, who was employed 
 by KmgCharles the Firft, to endeavour a reconciliation 
 between the Lutherans and Cahinijls in Germany , and 
 to unite them if poflible. We were now in the Territory 
 of the Eleftor of Brandenburg , Fridericm Wilhelmm , 
 Great Chamberlain of the Empire, w ho is in effeft pof- 
 fefled of Magdeburg , and next unto the Aujlrian Family, 
 is the moft potent Prince in Germany , beingable toraife 
 great jirmies, and his Dominions fo large, that they are 
 reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length, 
 from the further part of PruffiamtoCleve, but they lay 
 not together, but inrerfperfed with many other Princes 
 
 Countries s 
 
( 144 ) 
 
 Countries : Howfoever, a Horfe-man may fo order his 
 Journey r . as to lye every night in one of the Eleftour’s 
 Towns, in travelling from one end of his Territories to 
 another. 
 
 I had now left the German Language behind me 3 
 for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of Gmw^called 
 FUt-Deutch , Broad-Dutch , Niderfachftfche ,or the Lan- 
 guage of lower Saxony^ a great Language , fpoken in the 
 North part of Germany : They fpeak it at Hamburg , 
 Lubeck , and many great Cities: But they can converfe 
 with the other High-dutch , and with fome difficulty aTo 
 with the Netherlander s\t he one fpeakingin hi s Language, 
 and the other replying in his. 
 
 At this City of Magdeburg was performed the firft 
 'Turnament that was in Germany , w hich was opened in the 
 year 635. by the Emperour Henry, Surnamed the Fow- 
 ler, who coming from the war of Hungary , exceedingly 
 fadsfied with the Nobility , would oblige them to exercife 
 themfelvesin handling their Arms, and managing their 
 Horfes , and therefore infticuted thefe Sports, whereby the 
 Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallan- 
 try , and induced toperfeft and accomplifh themfelves in 
 all kind of Cbev&lry. No new Nobility ^ noBaftard 3 no 
 Uforper , none guilty of High Treafon , no Opprejfor of 
 Widows and Orphans, none born of Parents whereof one 
 was of bafe Extraction and Ignoble , no Heretique 5 Mur- 
 derer, Traytor, no Coward that had run away from the 
 Battel , nor indiftreet Ferfon that had given offence to La- 
 dies by word or deed, were admitted to this Honour, nor 
 above One of the fame Family at a time. Princes came 
 into the Lifts with four Squires a piece, Counts and Ba- 
 rons with three, a Knight with two, and a Gentleman with 
 one. 
 
 The 
 
( r 45) 
 
 The hour and place for the T urnament being appoint- 
 ed , he that had a defire to break a Lance there, came to 
 th ePreJidents Lodgings to have his Name written down, 
 which was done in the prefence of three Heralds , to 
 whom the Champion delivered his Helmet and Sword , and 
 after he had been at Confefllon 5 prefented himfelf in the 
 Litis with one or more Squires, according to his quality. 
 The Horfes of the Combatants were to be without fault 
 or exception^ the Caparifons and Furniture fuc has gave 
 do offence ; their Saddles without any extraordinary ri- 
 fingbefore and behind, andall things equal. After which 
 they performed all kind of Exercifes on Horfe-back : and 
 after the JouJls were ended, every than repaired to the 
 Trefident of his Nation , to wait for the Sentence of the 
 Judges ; and he that bed deferved the Prize , received it 
 either from the hand of fome Lady, or from the Prince 
 that gave it. 
 
 Thefe Paftimes were afterwards difufed , upon the E» 
 mutation it caufed between the Princes and Nobility , who 
 drove to outvie one another ; or upon wars, in which there 
 was no leifure for fuch Exercifes ; or perhaps upon con- 
 fideration that divers bravemen loft their lives in thefe 
 Encounters : And no lefs a Prince than Henry the Second, 
 King of France, negleftingto wear his Beaver down, was 
 (lain in a Turnament. And at Darmjladt alfo, in the year 
 1403. at the Three and twentieth Turnament which was 
 held in Germany, the Gentlemen of Franconia and thofe 
 of Heffe, drew fo much blood upon one another, that 
 there remained dead upon the place feventeen of the for- 
 mer, and nine of the latter. 
 
 The Winter growing on called me to make hafte to 
 Hamburg , from whence I intended to pafs by Sea into 
 England, and therefore I took the advantage of the Stage- 
 Coaches at Magdeburg , and in four days came to Ham- 
 
 V burg j 
 
bmg\ r travelled through a Country for the moil part 
 barren, of little accommodation, or ficarce any thing ve- 
 ry remarkable, through part of the Eleflour of Branden- 
 burg, and then through the Duke of Lunenburg's Coun- 
 try, paffingby ihco uy of Lunmbmg , a handfome wal- 
 led City, beautifies with divers fair churches, with high 
 Spires. The Church of St. Lambert, the town-houje % 
 and the Duke's Palace , are fair. Here are Salt-(prings\\\ 
 the town, very beneficial to the place , and fupplying 
 the neighbour Countries* The town is commanded by a 
 Bill near to it, called Kalkberg y which lieth on the 
 North-fide, 
 
 In this Road through lower Saxony, I could not but 
 take notice of many Barrows or Mounts of Earth 3 the 
 burial ^Monuments of great and famous Men , to be often 
 obferved alfo in open Countries in England , and fotne- 
 times rows of great Stones , like thofe in Wormins his Da* 
 m(k Antiquities : And in one place I took more particu- 
 lar notice of them, where three mafTy Stones in the mid- 
 dle , were encompaffed in a large fquare by other large 
 Stones fee up an end. 
 
 Rambmgis a fair City , and one of the great ones in Grr- 
 many*j.. it is feated in a Plain^ being populous, rich, and 
 remarkably ftroog ; I £ is fortified a la Moderne, much 
 after the way of Holland , with works of earth, but in no 
 place yet Revenues, or faced with brick ox fione: The 
 territory belonging to it is but fmail ; it is divided into 
 the new and the old town. There are five Gates : The 
 Stone gate , leading towards Lubeck ; the Dome-gate 5 
 th e Alton gate, or which leadeth unto Jltenaw, a place 
 near the town, belonging to the King of Denmark, where 
 £he Romanifts and Calvinifts have their Churches ; the 
 Bridge-gate ; and the Dike gate. The Buildings of this 
 City are handfome, and commonly have a fair entrance 
 
into them* The Senate-houfe is noble , adorned with 
 carved Statuas of the Nine Worthies < The Exchange or 
 place of meeting for Merchants, was then enlarging , it 
 being too fmall to receive thofe Numbers which frequen- 
 ted it. Many of their Churches are very fair , with high 
 Steeples , covered with Copper. The Front of Sr. Rathe* 
 rines is beautiful. The Steeple of Sr. Nicholas is fup- 
 ported with great gilded Globes. The other grea {Churches, 
 are the Dome-Churchy Sr. Peters, Sr. Jacob Jl\\q greater arid 
 lefs, Sc. Michael, the Neve Church in the New town. The 
 leffer churches , are St, Gertrude , St. Mary Magdalen 5 
 and the Holy Gboft. They have a Sermon every day, as in 
 other Lutheran Cities. 
 
 The River Aljler runs through it into the Elbe , and 
 turneth many Mills : and the Tide comes up into divers 
 Streets through Chands, although it be diftant eighteen 
 German miles from the Sea, or Mouth of the Elbe. This 
 place aboundeth with fhipping, and many of good Bur- 
 den, and is well feated for Trade, as havinganopen paf 
 Jage into the Ocean , and being but a days Journey from 
 th S'Lubeck on the Baltick Sea , and being feated upon the 
 long River Elbe, the third great River of Germany , 
 whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that 
 Country , and as far as Bohemia. 
 
 Hamburg is full of Strangers and Merchants of feveral 
 Countries. The English Company have good Vriviledges 
 and a rich Trade, and Ships come laden thither with Cloath 
 to the value of an hundred thoufand pounds fterling ? and 
 they live here in good Reputation, and to the honour of 
 their Country ; they are Ferfins of worth , courtefie , and 
 civility \ and I heartily wifh them all fuccefs in their af- 
 fairs* I muft not omit the acknowledgment of my par- 
 ticular Obligation to that learned and worthy Per (on , Mr* 
 Griffin, Preacher unto the Company, hit* Free the Trea- 
 
 ' V 2 furer* 
 
ftirer, Mr. Banks, who hath been in many places of Na- 
 folia , and the Holy Land, Mr. jf enkinfon , and my very 
 obliging Friends Mr. Catelin and Mr. Tovenly. 
 
 This place hath the happinefs to be quiet when the 
 great Princ§s of Europe are at war ; for it defires to hold 
 a ftrid Amity with Princes, and. declines aMDiffcntion with 
 them. 
 
 I found a Ship a iHamburg bound for London, and while 
 it was fitting for Sail* I made a fhort excurjion into pare 
 of the King of Denmarks Country ; and returning to 
 Hamburg again, I ordered my affairs for England upon 
 the firft wind, and hoped the next Tide to get over the 
 Altenaw fand f and to pafs the Blanckneft, but a crofs 
 wind prevented, fo that I left not Hamburg till the tenth 
 of December , and then I had the good Company of Mr. 
 Boyle , who came from Narva , and fet Sail in a new 
 Ship 5 but the days being at the (horteft , and the nights 
 dark in the Neve Moon, the Tide falling alfo in the day 
 time, we were able to get no further the firft day than 
 Stadt, or Shade, upon the River Zveingh, a ftronglW#, 
 belonging to the King of Sweden^ where the Ships that 
 come up the River pay Cuftome, and where the Englijb 
 Merchants had formerly their Rejidence, when they left 
 Hamburg upon a Difcontenr* 
 
 December the r i th. we came by Gluckjladt , belonging 
 to the King of Denmark , where the Caftle , the King's 
 Palace , and the Church are handfome, and Anchored that 
 night before the Mouth of the River Oajl , which arifeth 
 in Bremerland, and falleth into the Elbe a mile from Brunfi 
 biittel, on the other Holfatian flioar. 
 
 December the i ith . we loft fight of the Northern flhoar, 
 and palled Cook's Haven, in full hopes to put out to Sea 
 that night; but about Three in the Afternoon we were 
 becalmed a League and a half below it , where we were 
 
 forced 
 
(i 9> 
 
 forced to come loan Anchor again, left the flrong Ebbe 
 fhould fee us on ground among (he Sands i So we lay that 
 night between Lhickfand on the North, and Newark on the 
 South, right over againfl a Light- houfe . 
 
 December the 13^. the wind turning Wefternly, and 
 blowing hard, we returned to Cook rs Haven, and came • 
 to Anchor. Here I came a fhoar, and went up the Land 
 to the Fort in this place belonging to the City o f Ham- 
 burg: It is a high fquare Work, with a double Ditch , 
 and fome Fejfels come up to the Fort ; but the Ditch or 
 Chanel which comes thither out of the Elbe, is dry at low 
 water. The T own is called lieutfbuttel, not far from the 
 Lands end. Two or three days after, with a cold North* 
 Eaft-wind, we let Sail for England. Coming out of the 
 Elbe, we were all the Afternoon in fight of an Ifl ind, cal- 
 led Heilige-Undt , or Holy-land, belonging to the Duke 
 of Holjlein, which being very high Land, is to be fee n 
 at a good diftance, and is of excellent ufe to direfl and 
 guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe , without w hich 
 they would be at a great lofs , the Country about that 
 Rivers Mouth being all very Jow Land. 
 
 Heiligelandr is afmall ljland , having about two thou- 
 fand Inhabitants , and fix or feven fuiall Eeffels belonging 
 to it, which are imployed a great part of the year in bring- 
 ing Lobfiers and other Fijb to London or £ uinborough s 
 the Inhabitants living moft upon Fijh . We bore out to 
 Sea all night , and the next day made towards the Land 
 again, and failed in fight of Schiemoniekeoghe , AmeUndt * 
 and Schelling 1 in the Evening we faw the Lights at the 
 VlyandTexeL, when we were near the Land, we were 
 much troubled with the Froft and cold Weather , and left 
 when we were off at Sea. The next day we had a fair 
 wind, and made fuch way, that in the Evening we took 
 down our Sails, and let the Veffel drive,, not being wil- 
 ling 
 
05 °) 
 
 ling to deal with the ffaoar in the night. The next morn- 
 ing we foon difcovered the Northforeland covered with 
 Snow, and came to an Anchor in Margarita Road, where 
 the wind growing very high, we rode it out for two days 
 and two nights* and came fafe on (hoar (praifed be God) 
 upon Chrifimas- day morning. 
 
 Now having made fo long a walk in Germany, I tnuft 
 confefs I returned with a better opinion of the 
 Country, than I had before of it; and cannot but think 
 it very confiderable in many things. The Rivers there- 
 of are noble, and feem to exceed thofe of Frame and /- 
 taly. Of the Rivers of Italy , the Padua or Fo , is the 
 moft confiderable, which nocwithftanding, hath no very 
 Jong courfe, before it runneth into the Adriatick Sea> And 
 Italy being divided by the Affennine-btils , running from 
 WefttoEaft, the Rivers which arife from either fide , ' 
 cannot be Jong, neither on the South-fide, before they 
 run into the Mediterranean 5 as the Arm , Garigliano , and 
 others : Nor on the North fide , before they run into the 
 Adriatick , or the Fo . 
 
 The chief Rivers of France , as the Loyre , the Seine , 
 the Rhofne^ and the Garonne, I cannot but highly com- 
 mend, having palled upon them for divers days. There 
 are alfo four great Rivers in Germany 5 the Danube , the 
 Rhine , the %lbe $ and the Oder, but none of France feem 
 comparable unto the Rhine and Danube, France having 
 the Sea upon the North, the Weft, and the two large Pro- 
 vinces of Languedoc, and Province upon the Mediterra- 
 nean Sea , hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Sea- 
 ports .* But fame doubt may be made, Whether any there- 
 of do exceed Hamburg, Lubeck , and Dantzick . 
 
 The great number of populous, large, and handfome 
 Cities, doth afford great content unto a Traveller in Ger- 
 many \ for befides about Sixty fix free Imperial Cities, 
 
 there 
 
OsO 
 
 are many more of good note belonging to particular 
 Princes, and divers highly pnviledged* And furely a 
 true Estimation of the Cities and Towns of thefe days, 
 canrioc be duly made from the Accounts and Beficripu- 
 ons thereof left an hundred years fioce or snore, for fince 
 thofe times, Buildings have been better modelled and or- 
 dered ; Fortifications and Cut-works more regularly 
 contrived ; Convents and Publick Houfes more neac;y 
 and commodioufly built; and the fair Colledges and 
 Churches of the Jefuites, which are now to be feen in 
 do much fet off the Beauty of great Places. Every 
 where we meet with great and populous Towns, Villages, 
 Caftles, Seats of the Nobility, Plains, For efts, and plea- 
 fant Woods. And befides the fatisfafiion we may have 
 from Obje As aboveground , we may find no fmall con- 
 tent in the wonders thereof under it , in Mines , Minerals 
 almofi: of all forts, of Gold , Silver, Copper, Iron , Finn, 
 Lead, gtuickfilver , Antimony, Coal, Salt , Sulphur , Cad - 
 mia, and others , where there are alfo Angular Artificers 
 and Workmen , in the feveral Artifices thereof. Con- 
 vention with the People iseafie , they behaving them- 
 felves without much Formality, and are plain-dealing 
 and trufty, fo that a Traveller needs not to be fo fo- 
 licitous and heedful of what he hath, as in fome other 
 Countries, which are efteemed of greater Civility. 
 The Women are generally well-complexioned <, fober, 
 and grave , and they have not yet learned the cuftome 
 of their Neighbours of Frame and Holland , to admit of 
 being faluted by Men: faithful to their Husbands, and 
 careful in the affairs of their Houfes. 
 
 They makegood provifion againft the cold of their 
 Country , by fleeping between two Feather-beds and 
 •Stoves* 
 
( 152 ) 
 
 The common Stoves in Inns , wherein there are for 
 the moft part feveral Companies eating, drinking, and 
 in the night fleeping , are convenient, confidering the 
 great cold, or at lead tolerable; but they being rooms 
 clofe fhutup, thefmellof the meat, and efpecially of 
 Cabbage, an ufual Difli amongd them, makes them un- 
 pleafant, fo that fometimes 1 preferred the courfe of 
 hot Countries, while I railed to mind, that in Pro- 
 vince and Italy we drank frozen Julebs , Which we dif- 
 folved with the heat of our hands , flept upon a fleet , 
 on theoutfideof the Bed, with all the Windows of the 
 Chamber open ; and as we fate at dinner, there was a 
 Fann in the middle of the Room, hanging over our Heads,, 
 about two yards broad, which with a firing was pulled 
 backward and forward to cool us , and divers had Pans 
 filled with Snow, to cool the (beets when they went into 
 their Beds. 
 
 Germany is a great Hive of men, and the mighty de- 
 finition of men made by the laft German wars , and by 
 the Plague is fo repaired , that it is fcarce discernible. 
 They are fruitful, and full of Children: They are not 
 exhaufted by Sea , Colonies fent forth, or by peopling J- 
 merkan Countries ^ but they have fome confumption by 
 wars abroad, when they beat peace at home : few wars 
 being made in other parts of Europe , wherein there are 
 not fome Regiments of Germans ; the People being na- 
 turally Martial, and perfons well defcended 5 very averfe 
 from a Trading courfe of Life. 
 
 While I read in Tacitm of the old barbarous and rude 
 State of Germany , how poorly they lived, that they had 
 their Houfesat adiftance from one another; how igno- 
 rant they were in Arts ; and it was doubted whether their 
 Country afforded Mines ; that they lived by exchange 
 of things, making little or no ufe of mony, and the like. 
 
/*«) 
 
 I may juftly wonder to behold the prefent advance and 
 improvement in all commendable Arts, Learning, Civili- 
 ty, fplend id and handfome Cities and Habitations, and 
 the general face of things incredibly altered fince thofe 
 ancient times ; and cannot but approve the expreflion of 
 a Learned Man, though long fince , That if Arioviftus , 
 Civilis, and thofe old famous men of Germany, fhould re » 
 vive in their Country again , and look up to Heaven, behold- 
 ing the Confiellations of the Bears and other Stars fhty might 
 probably acknowledge that thefe were the fame Stars which 
 they were wont to behold 5 but if they fhould look downward , 
 and well view the face of all things , they would imagine 
 themfelves to be in a new worlds and never acknowledge this 
 to have been their Country , 
 
C*54> 
 
 A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 C O LEN 
 
 I N 
 
 GERMANY 
 
 T O 
 
 LONDON; 
 
 firing the Treaty of Peace at Colen in 
 Y the year 1673. between the United 
 States of the Netherlands , the King 
 of Great Britain, and the French 
 King ; many Englijb Gentlemen ha- 
 ving accompanied theirExcellencies 
 the Lords Ambafiadours and Pleni- 
 potentiaries in their Journey, had a 
 defire alfo to view fotne of th® Neighbouring Territo- 
 7 ““ ries. 
 
( r 5S) 
 
 rics, and todivertife themfeives during' the heat of the 
 Summer, ac th eSpaa y the Baths of Aken t and other pla- 
 ces. Having therefore, in order to our journey, obtain- 
 ed a Pafport for our Safety from Count hlondel , one of 
 th e y Spani/h Plenipotentiaries , aocf from their Excellencies 
 Sir Jo feph William [on, and Sir Lecline Jenkins ; we left 
 Qln onMunday the Fourth of July , and upon the Road 
 overtook my Lord of Peterborough , who had been at 
 Duffe dorp 5 at the Duke of Newburg*% Court, and went 
 afterwards into Italy to Modena, and brought over her 
 Highnefs theprefent Dutchefsof Tork . We dined at a 
 
 finall walled Town , called Berckem, which feme think 
 to be a name corrupted from iibermum, where we flay- 
 ed a great part of the Afternoon, to accommodate an un* 
 lucky Accident which happened.* A Servant of one of 
 the Engli/h Gentlemen having cafually fhot a Horfe, which 
 belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg , 
 lying at that time with a party of liorfe at this Town , fo 
 that we travelled in the Evening through the Woods , and 
 came late to a place called Steinjlraffe, and .the next day 
 morning vve went to Juliers . 
 
 Gulick% or Juliets, is a final! Town by the River Roer , 
 but very ancient, and called by the Romans , Juliacum , 
 conceived to have been founded by Julius Ceefar ; the 
 fometimes of the Dukes of Gultck , before the uni- 
 ting hereof wi h Clever and fince thediffolutron of that 
 Eftate, poflefled by the United Provinces ; and then a- 
 gain by the Spaniards ; but at prefent in the hands of the 
 Duke of Newburg . It being agreed at the conclufion of 
 Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders^ That the 
 Marquefs of Brandenburg fhuuld have <CJTiarck and Cleve , 
 and the Duke of Newburgh Gulick and Berg. This is a 
 handfnme well fortified Town, the Streets (freight, and 
 the Houfes of Brick . The Citadel confifts of four Bajlions, 
 
 X 2 of 
 
00 ) 
 
 df a regular Fortification ; within which is the Prinres 
 Palace. The Piazza in the Town ishandfome^ and the 
 whole confiderable for its beauty and Jlrength. 
 
 July the 5M* we came to jtken, or Aquifgranuns, five 
 Leagues difiant from Gulick \ the French call it /Ax la 
 Chapelle^ from a Chappel in the great Church , much v A fited 
 by Pilgrims from many parts ; and famous for the great 
 number of Reliques preferved therein* When the Ro~ 
 mans made war upon the Germans, they pofTefTed them- 
 ielves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes . 
 And Granm, a noble Rormn, being fent into tlefe parrs 
 of Gallia Belgica } about the year of our Lord Fifty three, 
 difcovtred among ihe Woods and Hills thefe hot Springs , 
 which to this day are fo much celebrated in many parts 
 of Europe $ who afterwards made ufe of them, and a- 
 domed them after the manner of the Roman Baths , and 
 built a noble Habitation mar them; part of which the 
 inhabitants would haveftill to be (landing, retaining the 
 name of Turrit Grant, an old Tower at the Eaft-end of 
 the Town houfe ; a noble Antiquity : But the manner of its 
 building gives fufpicion it cannot be fo old. Hence thefe 
 Thermo from their Difcoverer have been named Aqua* 
 Grant#, and came to be frequented; and the Town of 
 Aquifgrane built and flourifhed, till Attila , the King of 
 the Huns , or Hungarians , deftroyed it* 
 
 About four hundred years after, Charles the Great ri- 
 ding out a hunting in thefe parts , as he pafied through 
 the Woods, his Horfes Foot ftrook into one of thefe Hot* 
 firings ; near which he alfo took notice of the Ruins of 
 ancient Palaces and Buildings long before forfaken; and 
 being ftill more and more delighted with the pleafant Si- 
 tuation of the place, and conveniency of thefe hot Ri- 
 volets , he renewed and adorned the Baths 5 built his 
 Royal Palace near them; and appointed that the King of 
 
 the 
 
the Romans fbould be crowned with an Iron Crown here, 
 as wirh a Silver one at Milan , and a Gold one at Rome 
 He alfo built anoble Collegiate Churchy dedicated to the 
 blejfed Virgin, in the prefence of many Princes and TBT 
 fhops > in the year 804, and endowed it with Revenues 
 for the mainfainance of Canons, wholived togetherin a 
 Co/ledge atfirft } bur ar prefent feparately in the manner 
 of Prebends . He built alfo the old @r inward Wall of the 
 City , fo that it fiouriflied till the year 882. at which 
 time ir was again ruined by _ the Fury of the A' ormans 3 
 and the Emperours Palace burnt to the ground. This Ci- 
 ty 7 befides thefe Devadations from the Irruptions of the 
 Buns and Normans , bai h been divers times fince de- 
 ftrojed by Fire 3 as in the year 1 146. which lofs it 
 overcame in fuch manner, that Twenty fix years after; 
 it recovered not only its former greatnefs, but was fo 
 much increafed, that the large outward Wall was built 
 by the command of the Emperour Frederick the 
 Find. 
 
 In the year 1224. happened another great Fire 5 in 
 which, not only the Buildings , but many of the Inha- 
 bitants perifhed. And the Roof of the Church was bun , t 
 in another Fire 1236. And now of late, for it is 
 cot long fince it hath recovered its Ioffes by the Fire in 
 the year 1656. when twenty Chutcheszwd Chappels , and 
 about five thoufand private Houfes were deftroyed. 
 
 The Town houfe, or Senate- houfe was built 1353/ 
 being all of Freefone , handfomely adorned with the 
 Statues of the Emperour $. The firjl and fecond Story of 
 this Building is divided into Chambers ; but the higheft 
 is all one entire Room or Hall, 162 Foot long, and 60 
 Foot broad. It is well painted in divers parts by ji. mi - 
 faga : Two Pieces of whofe drawing are much efleemed 
 here ; one of the Refurretfion % and another of Charles 
 
0 «») 
 
 the Great , giving the Charter to the City of Aken. Here 
 thtErnperours , at the time of then Coronation, ufed to 
 keep their Feafts , together with the ElettoursveA other 
 Princes. The Roof is fupported by four Pillars ; through 
 the middle of which, ihzfmoakoi all the Chimneys of 
 this Building , is by a handfome contrivance conveyed 
 away. 
 
 Oyer againft this JRoufe , in the middle of the Piazza , 
 is a Fountain , coofiderable both for largenefs and neat 
 JlruHure j . contrived by a great Artijl , Gerard Coris : 
 where four Springs perpetually empty themfelves from 
 above into a large Bafon of Copper , of thirty Foot Dia- 
 meter • from whence again it defcends by fix Pipes into 
 a Cijlern of Stone , haodfomely engraved , and pafTeth to 
 many other Fountains in the Town. On the top of this 
 Fountain ftands a large Statue of Charles the Grea ^Patron 
 of this City^ made of brafs, and gilded over. He is in 
 Armour , and looketh towards Germany. About the edges 
 of the great hr ajs Rafon is this Infcription : 
 
 Hie aquisper Granurn Principem quend&m Romanum, 
 Neronis Agrippx fratrem invents, calidorum fontium 
 Thermo a Principio conftrutta. Poftea veru per D . Caro- 
 I urn Magnum Imp, conftituto ut loom hie Jit caput eft regni 
 fedes trans Alpes , renovate funt : quibus Thermis hie ge- 
 lidmfons influxit olim qttem nunc demum hoc eeneo vaft il- 
 lujlravit S. P. Aquifgranenfis , Anno Domini 
 1620. 
 
 Th t Church of our Lady, built by Charles the Great 3 
 is of an odd Figure, At the Weft-end is a Steeple adorned 
 with divers Pyramids ; and on the top a large Globe and 
 Croft . From hence, higher much than theC^f£,paffeth 
 a Gallery ? fupported by a large Arch to a Cupola near the 
 
 middle 
 
(*S9) 
 
 middle of the Church. At the Eaft-end is alfo a final! 
 turret at hanthorn. Theinfideof the whole is adorned 
 with Marble Pillars of divers forts, with Pillars of brafs, 
 gilded Statues , brafs Doors and Partitions y and much 
 Mofaick work. 
 
 In the middle of the Church, where Charles the Great 
 was buried, hangetb a very large Crown , given to this 
 Church by the Emperour Frederick the Firft. This Crown 
 is made of filver and brafs gilt, adorned with fix teen 
 little Towers , and eight and forty Statues of Jilvtr , of 
 about a Foot highland thirty two which are lefler. Be- 
 tween thefe ftand eight and forty Candleflicks to receive 
 the Lights burnt here upon Fejliva/s. 
 
 Of thefe large Crowns I have feen at Co leu , and other 
 parts 5 and it hath been an ancient Ornament in Churches „ 
 The Greeks havea Crown; or large Circle much like this, 
 in the middle of ttio/l of their bed Churches $ on which 
 they hang many Oftrich Eggs ? and the Pictures of the A* 
 pjlles and Saints. The lurks do likewife imitate it in 
 their sZMofyues, but inftead of Pictures place Lamps. 
 
 Frederick the Firft took up the Body of Charles the 
 Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Churchy 
 and afterwards buried it again j partly in a fiver Coffin 
 under the Altar of the Quire , and partly near the Wall 
 of the old Building , covering it with the fame tomb [lone % 
 as before * which is here reported to have been firft ta~ 
 ken from the tomb of Julius Cafar. It is of white Mar- 
 ble, and hath the Figure of Vroferpna upon it. Out of 
 this tomb of Charles the Great , were taken up a great 
 numberof Reliques and confiderable Rarities 5 which he 
 had gotrogether in his lifetime^ fome of them given him 
 by Aaron King of Perfia, by the Patriarch of ConftantP 
 nople, and others 5 divers of which are ftill preserved 
 here : and theft following we had the opportunity to fee. 
 
 Some 
 
(i6o) 
 
 Some of the bteflfed Virgins hair . One ring or link of the 
 Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Prifon. The 
 Head of Charles the Great. The hones of his Arm . His 
 Sword which the Emperours wear at the time of their Co- 
 ronation. The PiSlure of the Virgin Mary, with our 5 *« 
 v'mr in her Arms, emboflfed upon a Jafiis, done by St* 
 Luke, hanged about the Neck of Charles the Great , and 
 io found in his Tomb* A Nob’e Manufcript of the Cofiels 
 found in the fame T omb.Charles the Great's Horn which he 
 ufed when he went a hunting- His Crucifix made out of 
 thenwiof the Crofs.Our Saviour's Girdle of Leather ,with 
 the Seal of Confiantine the Great at each end* A piece of 
 the true Manna. Some of the Bones and Blood of Sc. 
 Stephen , richly enchafed , upon which the Emperours 
 are fworn at their Inauguration . A piece of one of the 
 Nails of the Crofs. An Agnm Dei fent from the Pope to 
 Charles the Great j and many other Reliques. Here is al- 
 f>the T^oftheEmperour Otho the Third, in black 
 Marble, who in the year 1000, firft conftitutedthe Ele- 
 ctors of Germany . 
 
 Near to this City are many forts of Minerals found ; as 
 Lead ore, the Sulphur , and Vitriol ft one , Iron, Coal , and 
 Cadmia ^ or Lapis Calaminaris : With this latter we faw 
 them make Brafs , or multiply Copper , in this manner. 
 They take calcined Cadmia, or Calmey, as they call it, 
 Copper from Sweden , and the melted drofs of both 3 to 
 twenty eight pounds of Gopptr they put an hundred pound 
 .43 f Calmey : They put firft into very large Crucibles , fome 
 old pieces of brafs and fiacken , or the drofs, and after- 
 wards the Calmey and Copper , and let them (land in the 
 Furnace twelve hours 3 after which, they put eight Crth 
 cibles full imo*one, and let what will run over, the beft 
 finking always to the bottom 3 and then caft it into a 
 Frame made of ftone^ bordered with bars of Iron 3 and 
 
 fo 
 
(t6i) 
 
 fo run it into bra ft Plates, which are afterwards cut in pie* 
 ces with large Cijfars. 
 
 The hot Bathes are very much frequented at p refent. 
 Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones : I he 
 Rmperours Bath , the Little Bath , and the Bath of 
 rinus. The Emperoms Bath is in the fame p ace, and fed 
 with the fame Springs with that in which formerly 
 Charles the Great took fo much delight, that he frequently 
 ufed to fwim thereinjie which Exercife few were more ex- 
 pert than himfelf $ andfpemthe latter end of his days 
 here, and would often invite to the Bath, not only his 
 Sons, but his Nobles, his Friend , and Guards ; fo as it 
 was cuftomary to Bathe a hundred together in thofedays. 
 But now they are divided into leffer Partitions. The 
 Emperours Bath having five Bathing Rooms ; and the Lit* 
 tie Bath which cometh out of it three.Thefeare reckoned 
 to be Nitro- Sulphur e us ; and arife fo hot, that they let 
 them cool twelve hours before they ufe them. From un- 
 der a great round Stone which covered a Well, in which 
 there were fome of thefe Hot Springs, I faw Brimjlone , 
 hard, above an inch thick , and Saltpeter y and a petri* 
 fied Subftance finely variegated, taken out. 
 
 Befides thefe, near unto the inward Wall of the City, 
 there are Baths which are not fo hot as the former, efteem- 
 ed to be Sulphur eo-nitr out : The fmell of them is fome- 
 what offenfive , and the water in the Gijlerns not tranfpa- 
 rent. The firft is the Bath of St. Cornelius , which hath 
 two Receptacles. The fecond, the Rofe Bath , fo cal- 
 ledfromMr. Rofe, a Citizen of Aken^ who built it. The 
 third, Compus Bait , or the Poor man's Bath . Of this fort 
 of warm Water there is alfo a Fountain , muchreforted to, 
 and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chro- 
 nical Difeafes. About a Furlong out of the South-gate 
 of Jken, is a Village called Porcetum } or Borfet, from rhe 
 
 Y 
 
 great 
 
(162) 
 
 great number of wild Hoggs, which formerly frequented 
 that place ; in which are many Ha Springs upon both 
 fidesof a little Rivolet, and let into Houfes, where they 
 are diftributed into feveral Baths of Stone. There are 
 fourteen of thefe Houfes, and twenty eight Baths ; the 
 Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water, each 
 of them: the Water is clear and pleafant, without any 
 offenfivefmell ; exceffive hot when it cometh firft out of . 
 the Ground , hotter than the hotteft ofjtken, and is left 
 to cool about eighteen hours before they ufe it. They life 
 alfoan Inftrumentof Wood, pierced with many holes, 
 to help to cool them fooner, or to ftir the Water when 
 any onegoeth in, whereby he is not fo fenfible of the 
 heat. There are many cold Springs rife near thefe hoc 
 ones,, whereby they might be tempered;and furely the 
 quantity of the hot Water being fo great, no place might 
 be made more delightful j nor no Baths more noble. The 
 Turks in our times, domoftof any Nation bcautifie their 
 Baths, and render them ferviceable to their health and 
 pleafure. 
 
 In Jujlria at Baden , the Sawer Bath is built after the 
 Turktjh manner, with a Cupola over it: and if any one 
 hereafter fhall build or beamifie thefe, they will yield to 
 very few in Europe * At prefent moft of them are of a 
 fquare Figure, of about five or fix yards over ; and the 
 Houfes in which they are, very near one another. The 
 firff Houfe hath the name of the Ladies Bath ; the fecond 
 is the Snake $ the third and fourth the Sword \ the fifth 
 the Golden Mill j the fixth the Fool ; the feventh the 
 Geek] the eighth the Great Bath ; the ninth the Fountain; 
 £he tenth the Crab ; the eleventh the World Inverted ; the 
 twelfth the Glafs ; the thirteenth the Angel ; and the 
 fourteenth the Rofe* There is alfo another in the open 
 Air, called the Poor matis Bath. In the Street is a Well 
 
 or 
 
(*«jj 
 
 Well or Fountain of thefe Hot [firings , of as great a heat 
 as any I have feen ; perpetually boyling or bubiing. But 
 of all thefe Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr, Didier have writ- 
 ten fo particularly, as I need not to add any thing more , 
 and particularly of their Ufes. 
 
 Within two Leagues of Aken> in the Country of Lim* 
 bourg , is a Mine of Lapis CaLminaris , which we went 
 to fee, having a Corporal and eight Mufyue tiers for our 
 Security to pafs the Wood. This ^3line lieth over a- 
 gainft the Caftle of Einenberg. As foon as I had delive- 
 red a Letter to Mx. John Franck , Comptroller of the 
 Mine for his Catholick Atajejly , he went along with us, 
 tofliewusthe manner how the Cadmia groweth in the 
 Earth, and other Curiofities, This Mine having been 
 wrought Three hundred years 5 and being one of the moft 
 remarkable of that kind , it may not be impertinent to 
 fet down fome particulars concerning it. It is about 
 eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep, lying all open like a 
 Chalk Mine , of an Oval Figure; they digg atprefent in 
 feveral places, and the beft Calmey lieth between the 
 Rocks, in thedeepeft part of the Mine : They have now 
 found an excellent Veyn fo placed, of eleven or twelve 
 Foot thick, which they digg out with Pickaxes , with 
 fome difficulty , by reafon that the Lapis Calaminaris is 
 fo very hard. The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow 
 and red , and hath Veyns of natural Brimjlone mixed thin- 
 ly in it. The Veyns of the Lapis Calaminaris being fo 
 large, they follow them not only in one place, but digg 
 over one anothers heads, and frame their work into the 
 ftape of large Stayrs, and one throws up what another 
 diggs, and fo upward till they lade the Carts with it. 
 Some of the Cadmia is blackifli and dark brown ; and 
 there ar e Fluores between the Cavities of th t Stone hand- 
 fomely figured, but moft of a blackijh colour . The mrky 
 
 Y a about 
 
C*<4> 
 
 about the Mine the mofi: remarkable, are thefe : r. An 
 Overftot-wheel in the Earth , which moves the Humps to 
 pumpout the water •, and this not placed in the Mine, 
 but on one fide of it, and apa(fage cut out of the Mine 
 to the bottom of it, by which the Mine is drained j and 
 another paffage or cuniculus , out of the place where the 
 wheel is turned, which lets out the water which turns the 
 wheel, and alfo the water which cometh out of the Mine 
 into the Neighbouring Valley . 2. The wafting of the Ore 
 
 or Stone , which they perform , as at other works , by 
 letting the water over it, and ftirring it ; and this they 
 do wherefoever they begin to work near the Superficies of 
 the Earth, for there the Calmey is lefs, and more mixed 
 with Clay and Earth : but the moft remarkable work is 
 the cakiningof the Ore (for all our Lapis Calaminaris of 
 the Shops is the calcined Calmey ) and it is worth the fee- 
 ing 5 for they place Faggots in a handfome order firft, 
 and cover a large round Area with them , of about For- 
 ty or Fifty yards Diameter , upon which they place Char - 
 coal in as good an order, till all be covered and filled 
 up a yard from the ground ; then they place ranks of the 
 largeft Stones of Calmey, and after them fmaller, till they 
 havelaid,all on? and then by fetcing fire to the bottom, 
 the fire comes to each fione , and all is handfomely calci- 
 ned. From hence we went to Limburg, meeting with di- 
 vers Smldkrs upon the Road, who defired mony of us, but 
 did not attempt any thing againft us, we being many of us 
 together in Company. 
 
 Limburg is feated upon a high Rock , which overlooks 
 all the Country , and a little River runneth almoft round 
 it at the bottom . The Avenue to the T own on the Norch- 
 
 fide is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rocfc and 
 the Gate of -the T own> over which is the Governor's 
 Hmfe r fpreadsit felf from one fide of the Rock to the 
 
 other* 
 
ocher, and loeketh up the pdjfage. Here we fhew our 
 Pafports from the Spanifb Plenipotentiaries \ and in the 
 Afternoon had a pleafant Journey to the Spaa. In the way 
 we faw where the French Army had paffed the Country 
 towards Metz, having lain about a Fortnight at Vtsbet , 
 after the taking of M&eftveicht. 
 
 Spa is a neat Vi Hedge in the For eft of Ardenna , Tea ted 
 in a bottom, encompafled on ail fides with Hills , and on 
 the North with fteep Mountains. So that it happening 
 to rain while we were there, the place was, in fame hours 
 time, filled with water , the Hay walked out of the Mea- 
 dows, the falls in the River made even , and Pobunt , one 
 of the Mineral Fountains , was drowned. There was 
 not much Company when we were there, although it were 
 in the hotteft time of the year , which is moft feafonab!e 
 for drinking the waters ; by reafon of the wars, and the 
 danger of coming through the Country to them. But in 
 Spa it felf all people are free from danger , ail the Neigh- 
 bouring Princes protefiing it , and would count it very 
 diflhonourable to difturb a place, which by the virtue of 
 its Mineral Springs , is fo beneficial to Mankind. Thefe 
 Waters are not only drunk upon the place , but are alfe 
 fealed up in Bottles , and Pent into many parts of Europe » 
 And Mr. Goquelet, at whofe Houfe we lodged, told me 
 that he Pent it as far as Saragoffa in Spain: and that he had 
 at that time Thirty thouPand Bottles empty, and waited 
 for a good PeaPon to fill them, which is the hotteft, dry - 
 eftimt of the Summer, and the bar deft Froft in Winter ; 
 at which times the water is ftrongeft , (partying , and brisk 
 The chiefeft of thefe & Mineral Fountains are thefe, Gm^ 
 fter, Saviniert , Tonnelet , and Pobunt. 
 
 Geronfter is in the middle of a thick Wood 9 about an 
 Bnglift) mile and a half Southward of the Spd\ it is the 
 ftrongeft of any, andthebeft adorned, being built up 
 
 with 
 
(i£6) 
 
 vntbftone? and a Pavilion over it, fuppor ted with four 
 handfome pillars. There is a green place cleared m 
 the JfW near to it , and a little Houfe for the Patients to 
 warm chemfelves in early, in the morning, or in cold wea- 
 ther* The Arms of S r Conrad Bourgfdorjf, who adorn- 
 ed this Fountain , are placed over, on two fides 5 and 
 On the other two this Infcription in French and High-dutch 
 in a handfome Oval . 
 
 Le Reverendiffime & ExcellentiJJime S T S T Conrade 
 Bourgfdorff, Grand Chamber Un, & premier Confeiller 
 d'Ejlat, Colonel & Gouverneur General de tons les Forts dr 
 Fori erodes du Sereniffime Eletfeur de Brandebourg dans fin 
 Ejlat Electoral , Grand Prevojl des Eglifes Cathedrales 
 ^’Halberftadt <$* Brandebourg , chevalier de rOrdre de 
 St, Jean, dr Commandenr du Baillage de Lagow, de gros 
 Machenau, Golbeck, Bouckow , Oberftorff, &c. 
 &c . drc. 
 
 This Fountain fmelleth very ftrong of Brimjlone , and 
 caufech vomiting in a great many, yet pafleth chiefly by 
 Urine , as they do all 3 and ftrikes a purple with Nut- 
 galls more inclining to red, than the waters of Tunbridge . 
 The Sediment is of alight blew in the Fountain , but of a 
 dark dirty ^everywhere el fe. Not far from this is a- 
 
 nother large Spring in the Wood much like it , but not as 
 yet built and beautified. 
 
 Saviniere is another Fountain , almoft as far from the 
 Spa. Eaft ward, and built after the manner of a Tower : the 
 JciduU are not fo ftrong as the former. There is another 
 Fountain hard by this, almoft the fame , held to be par- 
 ticularly good for the Stone and Gravel. 
 
 The 
 
(1 67) 
 
 The third is Tonnelet % arifing in the Meadow , and built: 
 up with Jtone : But being there are no Trees nor Shades a- 
 bout it, it is not fo delightful as the others, And Hen* 
 riots ab Heers in his Spadacrene, faith that this is more ni- 
 trous than the reft 3 aod caufeth fuch a coldnefs in the 
 mouth and ftomach , that few can drink of it. 
 
 The fourth is Vohunt , in the middle of the Town, from 
 whence mod* of the water is drawn which is fent abroad 9 
 if no particular one be fent for. This was beautified with 
 handfom z Stone-work y by the Bifhopof Liege y to whom 
 this place belongeth, and this Infcriptionfct over it , Sa- 
 nit at i Sacrum. It is alfo called the Fountain of St. Femaclm 3 
 to whom it was dedicated ; and thefe Verfes are Jikewrfe 
 engraven upon it : 
 
 Qbftrntlum refer at, durum terit , humida Jiecat 
 Debile for tific at$ Ji tamn arte bihis* 
 
 i. e. 
 
 This opens all Obftrufiions * 
 
 And wears away hard Tumours ; 
 
 This ftrengthneth much the weaker parts-,; 
 
 Aod dries up cold moifl Humours* 
 
 Being at the Spa, we vtfited Frmkimnt one After* 
 noon ? pafling through a thick Wood , there is an old Ca- 
 file, and good Brimfione and Vitriob works , the fame 
 Stone affording both ; and I prefume may alfo make the 
 Spa-water under ground, oratleaft be a principal In- 
 gredient in it. We faw the manner here how they mel- 
 ted , and caft their Brimfione firft into great Hath , the 
 florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle, the 
 thick; and more obfcure fubfiding and adhering to the 
 
 bottom 
 
(i68) 
 
 bottom and fides, and is that which is fold for Sulphur 
 Vivum ♦ We faw aifo the manner of calling the Brim- 
 ftone into Rolls , or Magdaleons ; And near unto this 
 place a finoaking, burning , little FHU y which is thus 
 caufed : They throw out the burnt Pyrites, out of which 
 Brimjlone hath beendiftilled , and the Vitriol drawn out 
 by infufion, upon this Hill, which confifts all of the fame 
 matter, which ferments in time, grows hot, fmoaks, and 
 burns perpetually, and withal, drinks in a new Vitriol 
 into itsfelf. 
 
 From the Spa we croffed over to Frapont , a Village 
 feared upon the pleafant River Ufa, or Ourte , where 
 we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream , yet one of 
 the pleafantefi; I ever faw 5 winding and turning between 
 fo many green Hills , in part of the Forejl of Ar duenna. 
 We defeended afterwards thirty or forty fmall Falls in a 
 long Boat made onpurpofe. The Oar or Paddle being 
 only a fquare piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole, 
 the Pole flanding perpendicularly in the middle of ir. 
 The delightful River Vefa , or the Wejdret y foon met us , 
 and joyning together, we fell down with them into the 
 Maes near Liege. Upon the Banks of thefe Rivers 
 all the Arms^Guns, and other Inflruments are made, for 
 which the Country of Liege is remarkable. 
 
 Liege , Luick , Leodium , or Augujfa Eburonum\ 
 Learned Men think this City to be feated near that Val- 
 ley , wherein two Legions of Julius C<efar , under Sabi - 
 nus and Cotta , were deftroyed by Ambiorix , chief Com- 
 mander of the Fburones . It is feated upon the River 
 
 Mofa , which entring with two Streams , makes fome 
 pretty Elands. Three other fmall Rivers arifing in the 
 Forejl of Ardenna , are alfo here received into the 
 Maes, whereby they have plenty of Fifli an. other 
 Conveniencies* The City is very popu’ou': , :t 
 
(»« 9 ) 
 
 bath been in former Ages, when as Charles Puke of Bar* 
 gundy, facked it, and deftroyed an hundred ihoufand of 
 the people. 
 
 It aboundeth with fair Churches , ftately Convents , 
 and Religious Foundations , richly endowed, fo that it 
 hath been called the Par adife of Priejls , and is in that 
 kind the mod notable in a!! thefe parts. The Palace of 
 the Bifljop is a noble Fabrick, built by Cardinal Erardus , 
 Biftiop of Liege. The Cathedral beareth the Name of Sr. 
 Lambert , who being Biftiop of Maejlreicht was murder- 
 ed by Dodo and others, about the year 622. The See was 
 afterwards tranflated unto Liege by Huberts, as it had 
 been formerly from Tongres to Maejlreicht , and the Bo- 
 dy of St. Lambert removed unto this Church, which is 
 at prefent very noble, being built of a rcddifti Stone , 
 very much carved without , and handfomely adorned 
 within. Between the Quire and Sacrijly , is this Infcrip- 
 tion in very large Letters »• 
 
 D . O. M. 
 
 lntemerat <e Virghi Mariae, Santto Lamberto, Ecck- 
 fi<e dr Patriot Divis Tutelar ibua, Maximilianus Henricus 
 utriufque Bavariae Dux^rchiepifcopus & Bleitor Colo- 
 nienfis, Epifcopus & Princeps Leodienfis, Ernefti dr Fer- 
 dinand i Bavariae Ducum , Epifioporum dr Vrincipum Leodi- 
 enfium Nepos dr Succejfor in \ui dr Pradecejforum memori* 
 am Vontbat . MDC L V 1 i J . 
 
 The Canons hereof are of great riches and power, and 
 have the Eleftion of the Biftiop and Prince, who hath alfo 
 had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon , Marquifs of Fran* 
 chlmont , and Count of Lootz and Hafbania , In the 
 
 j? 2 Coin 
 
Coin of Maximilian , the prefent Elefior of Colin and 
 Bifliop of 'Liege, 1 find this Infcription : 
 
 MaKimilianus Henricus Dei gratia Archiepifcopus Colo- 
 nienfis , Epifcopm dr Princeps Leodienfis, Supremos Bul- 
 lonenfis Dux. 
 
 Speutus the Eiflhopor Liege , bought the Principality of 
 Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon , when he went to the Holy 
 Land\ And in the Treaty of Cambray , j$$?. the pof- 
 fefilonof Bouillon , and precedency of Title, was gran- 
 ted to the Bifliopof Liege, al though «at this time alfo the 
 Houfes of La Tour and Mark do bear the fame. 
 
 Of iheParifli Churches that of Sr. John, and of St. 
 Strvafius are fair. Of the Abbies that of St. Jacob with* 
 in the Town, and of St. Lawrence , built by Bifhop Ra- 
 ginardm upon an Hill out of the Town, are noble. There 
 is alfo a Colkdgeof Englifb]efu\tes, weil-fea ted upon a 
 Hill, where theGarden is handfotne, and the Dyals trade 
 by Ft and Jem Lints* , are worth the feeing : And an Eng- 
 lifh Nunnery handfomely built. In the Church of the Gu~ 
 Melinites , out of the Town, iieth the Body of our famous 
 Country-man Sir John Mandeviile , who, after he had 
 travelled through fo many parts, rook an affection unto 
 this place, and here paffea- the remainder of his life, and 
 whofe Epitaph , and fome Rarities of his, areftilltobe 
 feen. 
 
 Bifliop Motger \ who was confecrated by St. Gereon , 
 Arch-biffiop of Cclev, and died in the year 1007. built 
 the, walls of this City , and being Tutor t oOtbo the third, 
 he found means very much to beaudfie it, to repair and 
 build divers Churches , and endow them with rich Re- 
 venues, and let the River Maes into the Town, which be- 
 fore ran upon one fide of it. As % 
 
(i7i) 
 
 As their Churches are fair and numerous, to are their 
 Bells and Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedra! of St, 
 Lambert there are eight large Bells, and twelve Idler 5 
 and there is one fo great, as ir is (aid to require Twenty 
 four men coring it. In the Church of Sr .Paul the Beils 
 and Chimes are con(iderab!e a, as alfj at Sr .Lawrence and 
 the crcjfed Friers. I c is a I To an Univerfity, and was fo 
 famous in former Ages , that they fiill take notice that at 
 one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings, Twenty' 
 four Dukes Sons Twenty nine of Counts, befides many 
 of great Barons Students therein. 
 
 Their Speech here, as aTo at Spaw, is called Roman , 
 and is a kind of o\d French, or Dialed of that Language, 
 a great part of which is made up of Latin 2 or Woman 
 words: and they call the Neighbouring Language of the 
 Dutch , iuijcon. But many fpeak very good French, 
 They have fome Vineyards affording a fmall Wine. The 
 Hills about furnilh them with Quarries of good Stone, 
 and of feverai kinds. They have al fo divers Mines and 
 Minerals^ and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire, in feme 
 places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer 
 the Surface : and ia one place I fa w them beginning to dig 
 where they immediately found Coal. Their Pumps and 
 Engines to draw out the water, are very confiderable at - 
 thefe Mines ; in fome places moved by WTeeis, at above 
 a Furlongs diffance, to which they are continued by 
 flrong Wood-work, which moves backwards and for- 
 wards continually. 
 
 The Citadel ftandeth upon a Hill, and i$ of great Strength* 
 It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjeftion. 
 For 1649. there being fome difturbances in the City, 
 Ferdinand , theEIettorof Colen , offering to come into 
 the Town to appeafe it, was oppofed by the Conful, 5 k- 
 
 Z 2 cobm 
 
f!72) 
 
 cobus Hemet, who was foon after furprifed and behead- 
 ed, together with Bartholomews Rolandus \ the Conful ha- 
 ving fworn the Elefior fhould never come in whilft he 
 were alive. And the Citadel foon after was ordered to be 
 built. The Bridges are handfome : that over the great 
 Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair , and hath large 
 Arches. From hence we could read the Eleftor’s name 
 upon the Citadel, Maximilianus, although it were at a 
 very great diftance, the Letters were fo large. 
 
 From Liege we had a pleafaot paffage down the Water 
 to Maejlreichty pa (Ting by Argent au , a Caftle feated up- 
 on a high Rock on the right fide of the River , belonging 
 then to the King of Spain , afterwards by Picket in the 
 half way, and then by Navagne , a ftrong Fort in the 
 Maes , which commands the River , and at that time did 
 the Spaniard fervice ; then by pleafant Rocks on our left 
 hand, wherein many Guts and Pafiages have been digged, 
 till we came in fight of Maejlreicht. 
 
 This Town having been a little before taken from the 
 United States by a fiharp Siege , was full of French , and 
 had a Garrifon in it of about Ten thoufand men ; and in 
 she Market-place flood about Two hundred large Fields 
 pieces. Wefaw the places where they had their Batte- 
 ries and their Mines, and the Half-moon which the Duke 
 of Monmouth t ook : the Out-works were very nume- 
 rous, and many of them undermined. Colonel Storff 
 &ew*d us a handfome Draught of all the Works, Ap- 
 proaches and Manner of taking of the Town. 
 
 About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went 
 into the great Quarry of Stone, which is one of the no- 
 bled fure in the World. Between Fadoa and Vicenza I 
 had formerly feen the famous Cave of CuJloza y ovCubola, 
 faid to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth , and 
 
 Seven: 
 
(m) 
 
 Seven hundred in length, but this doth far fsirpafs it ; 
 the Roof is very high and (lately in mod places, che Pil- 
 lars not to be numbred, all very large • we paffed two 
 miles underground amongft them : No Labyrinth can be 
 contrived more intricate, and yet all parts are uniform. 
 The Floor all in a level , and the Roof in mod places of 
 the fame height , and fo much hath that uniform rule, 
 which I fuppofe was (et to thofe who firft digged, and fo 
 hath fucceffively been obferved, added to the beauty of 
 this place, that there is fcarce any thing more noble* It 
 put me in mind of the hundred Chambers of Nero , which 
 he caufed to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Bai<e-. 
 And the Water which we met with in one place , made me 
 think of Nero's admirable Ft/h-pond, built in the like 
 manner within the Earth . We came out again near to a 
 
 Convent upon the Banks of the River r and returned by 
 j pater to Maejlreicht * 
 
 The next day we parted Company. Mr. Newton , Mr* 
 Rttrick , Mr. Grove, Mr, Carlton , and Me. Newcomb went 
 for Akenzvi& Colen z, Mr, Bates awd Mr. Dafion went up 
 the River again to Liege, at which place, flaying a day 
 or two to find a convenience to paf$ to Bruffels, we were 
 nobly entertained at a Dinner with Ventfon, Wild-boar, 
 and other Dijbes , by that worthy Perfon and Learned 
 Mathematician Framifcus Slufius , one of the great Canons 
 of Liege , who alfo continued his high Civilities to us to 
 the laft C Minute we flayed in town. 
 
 Leaving Liege we foon came in fight of Tongres , or 
 tungrorum oppidum , themoft ancient place in all thefe 
 Countries. Ortelm would have it to be called of old 
 Atuatuca : It was a ftrong hold before the coming of 
 Julius C<efar into Gaul, and was afterwards made a Ro* 
 mm Station r, and in procefs of time became fo great, 
 
 that- 
 
074 ) 
 
 that Attih the Bun deftroyed an hundred Churches in if, 
 it being at that timea Bi/hop See, which in the year 498 
 St. Servatius removed unto Maeflreicht. Many old Coins 
 and Antiquities are ft ill found here; and part of an old 
 Chappef faid to be built by St. Mat emus , Difciple to 
 Sr. Be ter, is ftill remaining. When the King of France 
 made his great inroad into the Low Countries 9 1672. he 
 borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne , and then 
 paKed on to Mafeick, where croffing the Country to the 
 Rhine , by the fides of thefe great Rivers, Rhine and 
 Maes , he made that notable Incurficn , and quitted not 
 Tongres till he had taken Maejlreicht the year following. 
 We dined this day at Borchloe , and lodged at S i.Jrwn, 
 or Sr. Truden, a handfome little town, fo called from a 
 Church and Ahby herein dedicated to that Saint. 
 
 The next day we dined at Fie nen, or Bilmont, on the 
 little River Geet , once one of the chief Towns in Bra- 
 bant. but long fi’nce decayed. In thefe j Plain Countries, 
 
 in many places we faw fmall Hills , or Sepulchral Eminen- 
 ces of the Ground : And near unto the Walls of Tienen , 
 are three very remarkable ones, faid to be the Bombs of 
 great Commanders . In the Evening we came to Lo~ 
 vain. 
 
 JLovain is the chief City of that Quarter of Brabant , 
 which comprehended) Arfchot , Halen , and fudoigne 5 an 
 ancient and large City, pleafantly feated upon the River 
 Dele ; it is of great Circuit , and the compajf of the n ? all 
 accounted above four miles about : but there are many 
 void Spaces , Hills , Fields , and Gardens within it, 
 which makes it very pleafant and delightful. There 
 are herein divers good Buildings , Convents •, and Chur- 
 ches : the chief whereof is the (lately church of Sr. 
 Peter, the Convent of the Cartfiupans , the Hofpital. 
 
 The 
 
( X 7S) 
 
 The publick Palace or Senate- houfe are alfo No- 
 b!e. 
 
 [c is the great Univerfity of chefe parrs , faid to have 
 had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the 
 Fourth, Duko of Brabant, and confirmed by Pope Mar- 
 tin the Fifth, 1425. There are Forty three Colkdges in 
 it; whereof the four chief are hilium, Falco , Gaft rum, 
 Porcus. Goropius Becams , a Learned Man, and Native 
 of Brujfels , affirmeth, That no Univerfity in Italy, France, 
 Germany , or Spain, is to be compared unto it for its e- 
 Jegantand pleafanc Situation. The Univerfity is under 
 the Government of Retfor , who is in great efteem and 
 honour among them. This Univerfity hath produced 
 many Learned Men : But neither the Buildings of the Col- 
 ledges , nor their Endowments do equal thofe'of our Uni- 
 versities , and the Situation thereof feems not to exceed 
 that of Oxford . 
 
 We travelled from hence to Brujfels^ being moft part 
 of the way in the fight of the very high Tower of the 
 Church of Sr. Rombald at Machlin * 
 
 Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low- 
 Countries ^ and refidedat Brujfels , the ordinary Seat of 
 the Governour s of the Spanifh Netherlands 3 which City 
 he had taken care to fortifie , and to make it more tena- 
 ble, if it fliould be attempted by the French. 
 
 From Brujfels wepafled to Antwerp , where we were 
 fcandfomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartcp, and 
 having vifited fome of our Friends, the next day we 
 pa(Ted the River Schelde , and took Coach in the morning, 
 travelling through a fruitful, plain, flat Country , fe£ 
 'Withrows of Trees inmolf places, and arrived in the e* 
 veningat Ghent . 
 
 Count, 
 
0?6) 
 
 Gaunt, Gandavum, or Ghent , is efteetned to be the 
 greateft City , not only of Flanders , but of all the Low- 
 Countries , and challenged a p ace amongft the greateft 
 in Europe $ but at prefent it decreafeth and decays ra* 
 ther than encreafeth. And if Charles the Fifth were now 
 alive, he could not put Paris into his Gant , a greater 
 Glove would not fic that City , which is fo much increa- 
 ied fince his time. In Ghent are many noble Convents^ 
 among which the Jefuites is one of the fa i reft : There is 
 a Gloijlerdhfo of English Nuns . The Cathedral is (lately, 
 and the Lower belonging to it being very high, gives a 
 profpeftof a pleafant and fruitful Country round a~ 
 bout it* There are divers Piazza’s , large and fair • in 
 one of which ftands a large gilded Statu* of Charles the 
 Fifth, Emperourand King of Spain , who was born in 
 this City. The whole Town is generally well built,and 
 the Streets are fair and clean. The Inhabitants hereof 
 have been taken notice of to be extreatnly given to Se- 
 dition , and for their fakes a great many other Cities in 
 Europe are punifhed, and have in a manner totally loft 
 their Liberties : For the Spaniards , to curb the Sediti- 
 ous humour of the People of Ghent , were put upon the 
 Invention of building Citadels in Cities , whereby a few 
 Souldiers are able to fupprefs any Commotion , or beat 
 down the Town, fo that here I faw the firft Citadel that 
 was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth ; It is not large, 
 and the Baftions little , and though of a Regular Figure, 
 yet not fo convenient as thofe of latter days, fince that 
 Art hath been improved. 
 
 From Ghent we pafTed by water about Twenty Eng - 
 lifts miles to Bruges , a very elegant large City , and for- 
 merly a place of very great Trade, being within three 
 Leagues of the Sea; fo that from the tops of their high- 
 
 eft 
 
( l 77) 
 
 eft Buildings 5 the Ships under Sail are viiible , and a£ 
 the fame time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of 
 a fruitful, pleafant Country , cometh under your eye. 
 
 It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches. 
 The Convents are numerous: The artificial Cuts of IT*- 
 ter from this Town to all places, maketh it of eafie ac« 
 cefs ; and though it hath no Pert , the Paffage from hence 
 toOJlendby water is Ihort : And they are at prefent up- 
 on a Defign of bringing Ships up to this City . 
 
 OJlend is about Ten Englifh miles from Bruges , feared 
 upon the waves of the German Ocean, which wafh it 
 continually on one fiie «r And they have now contrived it 
 fo, as to let the Sea inalmoft round the Town for a great 
 fpace, whereby it is become much more firong and de» 
 fenfible than before. For when I looked upon it, and 
 confidered what it was when it was befieged by Arch- 
 duke Albertus s and taken by Marquifs Ambroftus Spine - 
 la, 1604. whh an honourable £urrendtr af er three 
 years Siege, I cannot but aferibe very much unto iheii Sup- 
 pliesfrom England, and the obftinate Valour of the De* 
 fendants, efpecially the Fnglifh under Sir Francis Vcre * 
 Slays being the hands of the States of the United Pro- 
 vinces , and Dunkirk under the French. The Spaniards 
 poffefs no other IV* in Flanders but this and Newport ; 
 and this being the moft confiderable , thev are now ma- 
 king the Haven large, and are upon a confiderable Work 
 in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut 
 which goeth from OJlend to Bruges , out of their Har- 
 bour, by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of 
 Water, which is to communicate with both 5 which, when 
 it is finiflied, may be very advantageous to the Trafficb, 
 of the Spanifh Netherlands. This Town (lands very 
 low, b^xt the Streets are ftreight, large, and uniform 
 
 A a From 
 
078 ) 
 
 From hence I went all along upon the Se a-fhoar to 
 Newport, ahandfomeT 'own, with large fair Streets , but 
 low built. There were then a great number of (mall 
 Ships in die Harbour. This place is famous for [he Bat- 
 tel of Newport , fought here by Alberttis , and Count 
 ^Maurice, .wherein the- Spani(h Forces -loft the day, and 
 much of the honour of the Field was due unto the Eng- 
 lijh under Sir Francis Fere; fince which time, although 
 there hath been much blood filed in thefe Quarters , yec 
 there hath not beenfoconfiderabiea Battel ever fince , al- 
 though the Enghjb had alio the fortune to do great Ser- 
 vice hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils , 
 w hen a part of the Army of French and Englijh, which 
 befieged Dunkirk fought with the Spanijb Forces by Neve- 
 ■port , and overthrew them. 
 
 From Newport we put toSea, failingout of the Har- 
 bour, and intending for England ; but the wind being ve- 
 ry high and contrary, after having been at Sea all the night, 
 and had ieifure to take notice of the great number of Sands 
 upon that Coaft, in the morning we put into Mardiie , 
 whereat prefent there is only a Fort of Wood juft above 
 the High-water mark, with fome few Guns mounted, The 
 other Fort, more into the Land, being demolished. 
 
 Dunkirk is much increafed of late, and the King of 
 Trance hath not fpared mony to render it confiderably 
 fhong. He hath very neaf finished a noble Citadel, begun 
 by the Englijb while this Town was in their poffeffion , 
 which hath the Sea on one fide of it, the Haven on another, 
 and the Sandhills towards the Land, which when the wind 
 is at South-weft, doth fomewhat annoy it; To prevent 
 which, the French have made divers Cuts and Chanels 
 through the Sands , into which the Sea entring, doth raoi- 
 ften and fix the Sand, foas they are not fo apt to fly. And 
 
 every 
 

 ( r 7 9 } v 
 
 every Eaflionis fprucely kept and covered within wirfr 
 green Turf. Beyond the old Wall of the Town , there 
 are now great Works drawn , which encompafs fo large 
 a fpaceof Ground, that the Town is made bigger by 
 half: And in this pare ftands the Englijh Nunnery , and 
 many handfome Buildings. The new Fortifications are 
 very large ; and the Baltion towards the North the moll 
 (lately , upon which the King of France entertained the 
 Duke of Monmouth. The Port is large, and capable of 
 receiving a great number of Ships, but at low water it is 
 almoft dry 5 and there are fo many Sands before it, that at 
 that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of 
 iu 
 
 From Dunkirk^ we travelled by Land to Gravelings 
 where the Works are of Earth, large and high, the Church 
 (lately, the Streets broad, but the Houfes low, and at 
 prefent not populous. 
 
 From Graveling I came to Calais, from whence fetting 
 Sail in the morning , we came to Dover , and the fame day 
 to London. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 \ 
 
A Catalogue of fome Books Printed for BenfTooke at the 
 Ship in St. Paul's Church- yard, 
 
 T He Works of the Mofe Reverend Father in God, 
 John Brainhail,to(f L.Arch-Eijh . of Ardmagh. Fol. 
 Several ChirurgicalTreatifes , Richard Wifeman Serje- 
 
 ant Chimrgion to bis Majefey. Fol. 
 
 Skinneri Etymologicon Lingua Anglican*, Fol. 
 
 Bijhop SenderfonV Sermons . Fol. 
 
 Bentivolio and Urania, by N. Ingelo, D.D . Fol. 
 
 Mr, Faringdon’i Sermons compleat^ Three Fol, Fol. 
 
 Dr, Heylin onthe Creed, Fol. 
 
 Lord Bacon V Advancement of Learning, Fol. 
 
 Lightfoot, Her a Hebraic £ in Johannem. Quarto. 
 
 Dr . BrownV Travels in Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria^ Mace- 
 donia, Theflaly, Auftria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, 
 and Friuli, with Sculptures. Quarto. 
 
 A Pa prefect at ion of the State of CbrifeianityinlLnghr\d,and 
 of its decay ami danger from Sectaries as wed as Papijls. 
 Langhornii FAemhus Anti quit at um Albionenfium . Od. 
 Batei Elenchus Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia. 
 
 $obannis Ste&rne de Obftinatione Opus Poflhumum .Prafixa 
 funt Prolegomena Apologetic a. Odavo. 
 
 Two Letters of Advice; i For fufeeptionof H. Orders. 2. For 
 Studies Theological, e fpe dally fuch as are Rational, Od. 
 Seme Confederations of prefent Concernment, how far the Ro - 
 manifts may be trufled by Princes of another Perfwafeon . 8 . 
 Two feyort Difcourfes again]} the Romanifes. 1. An Account 
 of the Fundamental Principle of Popery } and of the Inef- 
 ficiency of the Proofs they have for it. 2. An Anfwer to 
 Six Queries, 12. Thefe four by Henry Dodwell Mo A . 
 fern crimes Fellow of Trinity Cod edge near Dublin.